YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY rev. pieree-jean de smet, s. j. LIFE, LETTERS AND TRAVELS OF Father Pierre-Jean De Smet, S. J. 1801-1873 Missionary Labors and Adventures among the Wild Tribes of the North American Indians, Embracing Minute Description of Their Manners, Custoims, Games, Modes of Warfare and Torture, Legends, Tradition, etc.. All from Personal Observations Made during Many Thousand Miles of Travel, with Sketches of the Country from St. Louis to Puget Sound and the Altrabasca Edited from the original unpublished manuscript Journals and Letter Boohs and from his Printed Works with Historical, Geographical, Ethnological and other Notes; .Also a Life of Father De Smet MAP AND ILLUSTBATIONS HIRAM MARTIN CHITTENDEN Major, Corps of Engineers, U. S. A, AND ALFRED TALBOT RICHARDSON FOUR VOLUMES VOL. IV NEW YORK FRANCIS P, HARPER 1905 Copyright, 1904, BY FRANCIS P. HARPER All rights reserved CONTENTS OF VOLUME IV. CHAPTER XIV. PAGI. Miscellaneous Letters Relating to the Indians , , 1213-1227 PART VIII, MISSIONARY WORK AMONG THE INDIANS. CHAPTER L The Flathead and other Missions 1228-1249 CHAPTER II, Letters from the Resident Missionaries .... 1250-1261 CHAPTER III. Tributes to the Flatheads and other Tribes . , , 1262- 1278 CHAPTER IV, Plans for a Sioux Mission 1279-1304 CHAPTER V, Miscellaneous Missionary Notes I30S-I344 PART IX. MISCELLANEOUS WRITINGS. CHAPTER I. Notes on the Western Country I34S-I3S4 CHAPTER II. The Missouri River 13SS-1387 [V] VI CONTENTS, CHAPTER III. PAGE. Fauna and Flora 1388-1401 CHAPTER IV. The Mormons 1402-1415 CHAPTER V, Indian Anecdotes 1416-1420 CHAPTER VI. Observations upon America 1421-1450 CHAPTER VIL Religious Persecution 1451-1462 CHAPTER VIII. Unclassified Letters, Largely Personal . . , , 1463-1548 CHAPTER IX. Selected Letters Received IS49-IS9I CHAPTER X. Funeral Oration on Father De Smet . . , , 1592-1600 CHAPTER XIV. MISCELLANEOUS LETTERS RELATING TO THE INDIANS, Difficulties in the way of missionary work — Deaths of baptized chil dren — Polygamy and drink — Thanks an informant — The Grattan Massacre — Indians must be industrious and rely on Providence — Testimonials to the mountain tribes. SEE more plainly every day that a good store of virtue is required, and the assistance of many prayers, to over come the difficulties and obstacles -which seem to multiply w^ith our efforts to advance the greater glory of God. The demon does not sleep, and seeing that some portion of his prey is escaping him, " tanquam leo rugiens circuit, qucerens quern devoret." He employs all his snares and ruses to at tach his devotees to their infamous debauches, and to the grossest superstitions. If a baptized child dies, the medi cine men, true ministers of Satan, put the -whole village in uproar to make us the cause of its death. " It is the medi cine (the -water of baptism) that they poured on his fore head ; it is the medal or cross that they have hung around his neck, and nothing else, that have caused his death." By such speeches they increase the fears of these poor people. Marriage also, which hampers them, and the prevalent practice of polygamy, form powerful obstacles to their con version. The Indian is naturally light and inconstant ; con sequently to attach himself for life to a woman, and have but the one, seems to him impossible and insupportable. I should explain further that marriage is a species of specu lation with them; a father who has several daughters is rich among the Indians, for he can sell them for one, two 1 Extract from a letter (in French) to the Father- General (in 1839?). [1213] 12 14 VAGABOND AMERICANS AND LIQUOR, or three horses each. Frequently, after they have followed and relished our instructions for a long time, as soon as we touch upon this article they go away, like the disciples of the Lord, saying, " Burns est hie sermo, et quis potest eum audire? " and we have the grief of seeing persons escape us, who, in all other respects, were giving us great hopes, A still greater obstacle, and one which will, I fear, end in the total ruin of the nation, is drink; which brings in its train war, famine and pestilence, all together. The country is overrun by vagabond Americans; and the Government, which alone could put a stop to this abominable traffic, in spite of the severity of its laws, pays no attention to the matter. The Potawatomies, by their treaty with the Gov ernment, receive $50,000 per annum; this payment having been omitted last year, they received double in 1839. Such a sum, well placed, would procure for the savages victuals and goods in abundance, and would render them happy in regard to temporal things. But alas! all this money goes for liquor. As long as it lasts they neither work nor hunt : and they now have enough to keep them going from New- Year's day to the end of December. They quarrel and fight from morning to night ; their bodies become veritable furnaces, full of foul humors, which cause them all sorts of maladies. Their love for liquor is really inconceivable; one must see it to be able to form any idea of the thing. It is a regular tarantula to them ; as soon as they are bitten by it, all their blood flames in their veins, and they are crazy for more. If they get it, " More, more ! " is their war-cry, until, as the flame consumes them, they fall over, drunk, like animals. And when the fumes of drink evapo rate from their brains, their first and only cry is " Whisky ! whisky ! whisky 1 " as if it was a matter of life and death. While they are drunk, their passions control them abso lutely. At first they are moved to joyous songs, but these are soon succeeded by yells and roars. Disputes and quar rels follow, and then the knives, lances and tomahawks come out, and murders finally crown their abominable or- INDIANS DRUNK AND SOBER, I215 gies, A great many are dead already, and others are hor ribly mutilated. The other day I counted nine bitten-off noses in a single group of Indians. In their rage, this little member is the principal object of their attack; and a drunken Indian who deprives a comrade of his nose, boasts of it as much as a brave soldier of having carried off a flag from the enemy. When they are sober, no one would rec ognize them; they are mild, civil, quiet and attentive; but there is no safety in the presence of a drunken savage. Several times already our lives have been in the greatest danger; but fortunately by gentle and moderate words we have managed to appease the rage of these barbarous drunkards, who were breathing only blood. Sept, 30, 1852, Mr, Denig, Fort Union: My Dear Friend. — At my return home this evening, I found a card in the parlor with the well-known name of our good friend Mr. Culbertson, and understood at the same time that he is to leave on to-morrow for the Upper Missouri. I cannot let him start without charging him with a few lines for you. I do not know how to express my gratitude for your very interesting series of narratives concerning the aborigines of the Far West. A thousand thanks are due to your precious and valuable labor and are hereby given, though language fails to express the feeling which a treasure like your pages has awakened within my breast. Nothing could be more gratifying to me than the beautiful and graphic details which you have given me of the religion, manners, customs and transactions of an unfortunate race of human beings, toward the amelioration of whose sad condition I have in some measure contributed and am still anxious to contribute whatever I possibly can. Please read these sublined words to the Crazy Bear, whose speech has wonderfully pleased me and whose petition, were it to de- 12 16 A FIRST-HAND INVESTIGATOR. pend on me, I would most assuredly grant. Explain this well to him. By the next steamer he shall hear from me, and I shall send him the words of the big Black-robe (the Bishop), for I have forwarded a copy of his speech to him. The lot of the Indian; his severance from the hallowed influences of Christian civilization ; his profound ignorance, only exceeded by his grosser superstitions; the deep and often unmerited contempt, into which prejudice has thrown him; all call upon the humane and philanthropic to do for him what ordinary charity requires of man. In telling his tale in unvarnished colors to the unknow ing world by delineating his character and by painting the scenes with which he is habitually surrounded, you, dear friend, will soften into sympathy the public heart and stimu late it to active exertion for bettering his future situation; and you will further awaken an interest in the circumstances and events which surround the posts, plains and wigwams of the Indians, Think that your researches can be spent most profitably to the Indian and most agreeably to me. Show me this acknowledgment, for your beautiful manuscript tells me that I may claim a large share in your friendship and re membrance, and for which I feel truly grateful to you. You are filling up the broken, but important, history of a race of men whose career, I deem, is well nigh run on this conti nent, but whose character, deeds and fate will increase in interest as generations descend the stream of time. We shall soon look in vain for the survivors of a once fierce and dreaded people, but shall find them again on the his toric page which you and others shall have helped to swell with faithful accounts of their savage life, rude customs and untutored manners. I have read the present series with absorbing attention and growing interest. My imag ination has often carried me back to scenes long familiar to my experience and to others of a general and kindred nature which your pen has so well portrayed, in your valu able descriptions of their religious opinions, of their great the GRATTAN MASSACRE, 12 17 buffalo hunt, their war expeditions, and in the histories of old Gauche and of the family of Gros Frangois, ********* Mr, Culbertson will bring you all the news of the civil ized world and a little remembrance from me, consisting of a couple of good razors and penknife. Believe me to be, etc. The Grattan Massacre. Bardstown, Ky., April 17, 1855, My very DEAR GUSTAVE AND Marie : I have received your good letter of the 4th of October last in response to mine of September 12th, Thank you for it most sincerely, I cannot express to you how much good your letters, going into such details and so full of family news, do me. I shall keep them most carefully ; I find only one fault with them — their dates are rather too far apart ; let them be closer together, and I promise you, dear friends, to make it up to you, I rejoiced at the announcement of the birth of your first-born and I implore the Lord daily to keep him for you, for your mutual happiness and the con solation of your dear parents on both sides. I told you in my last letter that I proposed to return to the desert in the course of this spring. That was sincerely my desire and I regret that serious difficulties have come up which compel me to put off my visits to the savages to more favorable times and circumstances. For you must know, that the grand and glorious Republic is going to appear on the stage of the great Indian desert to give a representa tion of the lovely fable of La Fontaine (always old and al ways new) of the Wolf and the Lamb, The moral is, " The wicked and the strong always find plenty of pretexts\ to oppress the innocent and the weak; and when they lack 77 12 18 A WOLF, A LAMB AND A COW. good reasons they have recourse to lies and calumnies," An unpardonable offense, it appears, has been committed in the eyes of our civilized people* by the Indians, They had repaired, to the number of 2,000, to the appointed spot at the time fixed by the Government agent to receive their annuities and presents. They waited several days for the commissioner to arrive and in the meantime they ran out of provisions. Then- a Mormon wagon-train, on its way to the Territory of Utah, came peaceably by the Indian camp. One of the party was dragging after him a lame cow hardly able to walk. A famished savage, out of pity for his wife and children, and perhaps, also, from com passion for the suffering animal, killed the cow and offered the Mormon double value for it in a horse or a mule. Such an act with such an offer under such circumstances passes for very honest, very fair and very polite, in a wild country. Still the Mormon refused the proffered exchange and went and filed a complaint with the commandant of Fort Laramie, which is in the neighborhood. Like the wolf who leaped upon the lamb to devour it, crying : " I know very well that you all hate me, and you shall pay for the rest," the illustrious commandant straightway sent out a young officer with twenty soldiers ai^med to the teeth and with a cannon loaded with grapeshot. He was absolutely determined to capture the so-called robber and make an example of him. The savages were astonished at the men acing turn that the affair of the cow, so frivolously begun, had taken; they begged the officer to take one, two, three horses in exchange, a hundred times the value of the cow, if necessar)'. They wished at any price to " bury " the af fair, as they express it; that is to arrange it peaceably and quietly, but without giving up to him their brother, innocent according to their code. The officer was inflexible, refused all offers ; he must absolutely have his prisoner ; and when the latter did not appear, he fired his cannon into the midst of the savages. The head chief, whom I knew well, the noblest heart of his nation, fell mortally wounded and a FRESH WAR OF EXTERMINATION, 12 19 number of his braves beside him. At this unexpected mas sacre the Indians sprang to arms; and letting fly hundreds of arrows from all sides they instantly annihilated the ag gressors and provocators. Will you in Europe believe this tale of a cow? And yet such is the origin of a fresh war of extermination upon the Indians which is to be carried out in the course of the present year. An army of 3,000 to 4,000 men is being got ready in Missouri at this mo ment to penetrate into the desert. A very large number of whites will lose their lives without a doubt, but in the end the savages will have to yield, for they are without fire-arms, without powder and lead and without provisions.* Since the discovery of America a system of extermination, of moving the Indians, thrusting them farther back, has been pursued and practiced by the whites, little by little, at first — more and more as the European settlers multiplied and gained strength. At this day this same policy is march ing with giant strides ; the drama of spoliation has reached its last act, both east and west of the Rocky Mountains, The curtain will soon fall upon the poor and unhappy rem nants of the Indian tribes, and they will henceforth exist only in history. The whites are spreading like torrents over * This is what is known as the Grattan Massacre, from the name of the officer in charge of the detachment sent after the thief. There is no doubt that the Indians were already in bad temper over their gen eral situation before this incident occurred, and that it required but little provocation to make trouble. But the unfortunate affair could probably have been prevented if the commanding officer at Fort Laramie had understood the gravity of his action and had sent an officer of sound judgment and experience. The conduct of Lieutenant Grattan showed him to be lacking in both these qualities. The massacre took place August 19, 1854. A little over a year later, September 3, 1855, General Harney, who had been sent out with a military force to punish these Indians, met them in battle on the north shore of the north fork of the Platte op posite the place known on the Oregon Trail as Ash Hollow. The In dians were completely defeated. General Harney then went overland to Fort Pierre where he succeeded in bringing about a general pacifica tion of the tribes. I220 HUNDREDS OF TRIBES HAVE DISAPPEARED, all California and the Territories of Washington, Utah and Oregon; over the States of Wisconsin, Minnesota, Iowa, Texas, and New Mexico, and latterly over Kansas and Nebraska, which have just been incorporated into the great American confederation. At a very recent epoch, within my own knowledge, all these first-named States and Terri tories were occupied by Indian nations, and just as fast as the whites settle and multiply there the natives disappear and seem to fade away. To-day the very names are hardly known of hundreds of tribes that have entirely disappeared. The immense regions that I have just named contain sev eral million square miles of land. The Territories of Kansas and Nebraska alone are forty times as large as all Belgium, When I began this letter I had no idea of saying so much about the savages, which can be of very little interest to you, I speak, no doubt, from the abundance of my heart — it is my favorite subject — and most willingly would I conse crate the remnant of my days to their spiritual and tem poral happiness, I recommend them most urgently to your good prayers. St, Louis University, September 7, 1868, Dear Colonel: Your kind and most welcome favor of the 8th ultimo was received yesterday and has afforded me a great deal of pleasure and consolation to be remembered by you. Major Galpin called thrice on me during his stay in St, Louis, He kept very busy all the time, I occasionally visited his wife and children at the hotel. They enjoyed good health but seemed to prefer Fort Rice. The major gave me all the news from Fort Rice and mentioned you often, I intro duced him to General Sherman with whom he had long conversations. He met General Harney at the Southern Hotel, I did not see the major before his departure from WANT OF BUFFALO ALREADY FELT, 122 1 St, Louis, and was informed by Captain Haney that he was hurried off to Sioux City, by a telegram from Harney. I recommended the major in strong terms to both gener als, I hope he has found some honorable employment and in accordance with his wishes. His long experience among the Indians might make him a very efficient man, and with the co-operation of his good wife, he might render great service to the Indians, particularly the hostiles, under the existing circumstances. It is my candid opinion that he may be very favorably employed and to very good pur pose, by the commissioners and the commanding officers at the various upper posts on the Missouri. The news you give me from my adopted brother Two Bears, truly affects me and I am sorry to hear of the dis tress and sufferings of his people. The advice you have given him is the only true one. His actual trials should not make him despond and omit his prayers. He should rather redouble in fervor and pray oftener, doing all the good he can among his own people, to keep them in the straight path. Trials received with patience and resigna tion will render us more pleasing in the sight of the Great Spirit and more worthy of receiving his favors and assist ance, whereas murmurs make things often worse than before. As you so well advised him, he should continue to pray, be industrious in hunting, fishing and digging roots. He must, meanwhile, rely on the kind providence of the Lord, on whom our dependence must rest altogether, I join him daily in my poor supplications to God. What I have foreseen for several years past is now ap proaching. The buffalo are fast disappearing from the country and their time is well-nigh spent. Their want is already severely felt. Under these trying circumstances, the Great Spirit has moved the heart of their Great Father, the President, to lend his red children a fatherly hand in their actual sufferings. They must avail themselves eam- nestly of the opportunity he offers and follow the advice given them by the commissioners. They must set to work 1222 WAR A PROFITABLE INDUSTRY, in due season in the cultivation of the soil and the raising of domestic cattle and animals. Under the providence of God, it is to be hoped that their labors will prove successful in time, and before long their children may live in compara tive abundance, by the labor of their own hands. Our great maxim in all things must be : "To do what we can, to ask God's blessing in what we cannot, and if we are deserving, the Lord will help us in our need," He commands us to " ask " and promises " we shall receive." All this, of course, is intended for my friend Two Bears. I hope Frank will make him understand it well. He may add that the actual want the Lord permits may be a warning to his red children to make strong exertions and efforts to suc ceed in the new life they are about entering. I place great confidence in my brother and friend Two Bears, He will tell his people, particularly the chiefs and orators, not to despond, to have courage and hope in the future. Industry and perseverance must crown their efforts, I remain truly attached to my red children of the upper country. The summer has been very severe and long, I have suffered much, and though it is much cooler at present, I still con tinue to feel the effects of the previous heat. Should my health permit, I intend to return to the upper country in the course of next spring, I have received some encour agement for the erection of a mission among the Sioux and I sincerely hope that it may be realized. From the news I read yesterday, in the Missouri Re public, the Sioux on the waters of the Platte and its tribu taries have refused to join the Cheyennes and Arapahos in the new depredations and murders. I have been assured, on good authority, that reckless endeavors are made in the new western settlements to continue the war with the In dians. " It brings them money in abundance, and they are determined to have it !" A letter from you, dear Colonel, will be always most welcome. Please present my best respects to the officers of Fort Rice. INVITATION TO A NEW YORK CONFERENCE, I223 St, Louis University, May, 1870, Honorable Sir:^ I received your favor of the 27th ultimo. Permit me to express to you my sincere thanks for the kind senti ments you entertain in my regard and which I shall ever gratefully remember. You reiterate to me the invitation, in the name of the " Honorable Committee of the United States Indian Commission " to assist at your meetings in New York on the i8th instant. Even apart from the great honor yoti are pleased to confer on me, nothing could be more pleasing to my personal feelings than to be ad mitted in the presence and at the deliberations of the most highly esteemed gentlemen of the country to whom the administration has confided in its wisdom the important Indian question as to the future welfare of the remaining Indian tribes. I stated in my previous letter that my health is rather declining, and must add that my hearing, par ticularly, is failing fast and makes my presence in meet ings rather unpleasant. Besides, the invitations I have received from the Upper Sioux Indians and the promises I have made to thera, if in my power to comply -with their requests, make me humbly decline your very kind and hon orable invitation, for which please receive again my sin cere and heartfelt thanks. You do me the honor to ask me some account as to my personal experience among the Indians and my conviction as to their capacity for civilization and receiving religious instruction, etc. Though pressed for time, I take great pleasure in reviewing some of my early experience among the Indian tribes, accompanied with a few simple illustra tive occurrences, showing the Indian character in its primi tive nature where it had remained uncontaminated by the contact of vicious whites. You allude in your letter to the anecdote I related to the honorable commissioners at Fort Leavenworth (1868) to * Letter to Hon, S. F. Tappan, 1224 STORY OF THE CHAPEL TRUNK, wit : to the chapel trunk I had left among the Rocky Moun tain tribes at my departure from them, as an assurance of my promise to return to the mountains. For nearly a year they had carried it with the greatest care in all their expe ditions and returned it to me intact and in the best state of preservation, I may here add a short statement of what occasioned my visit to these Indians, The Rocky Moun tain tribes, Flatheads, Kalispels, Cceur d'Alenes, Kootenais and others had heard of the Savior and of his holy laws to mankind, by means of a few Christian Iroquois from Canada who had come to the mountains as engages of the Hudson Bay Company, and who had finally settled among the above tribes. They had aroused the minds of the mountain Indians with a religious feeling to which they had been hitherto strangers, and in a council they resolved to send a deputation to St, Louis of some of their wisest men, to obtain Black-robes (priests) from the Bishop, I always looked upon it as a particular favor to have been appointed to accompany this deputation and with pleasure I can bear witness, that during the long and tedious traveling at that time (1840) their conduct toward me was one continued act of kindness and of attention. After some two or three months' travel to the appointed rendezvous in the plains of the Green river, we met great numbers of the above-mentioned tribes who had come hun dreds of miles from their habitual hunting grounds to meet us and welcome us to their country. Their kindness, at tention and zeal exceeded my expectations. From the very start of my missionary operations they listened with the utmost anxiety and earnestness to the holy word of God and put in practice immediately what they were made to understand. In this first visit I remained with the Indians about three months. They daily attended at the morning and evening prayers and instructions, which holy practice, as I learn, has never been discontinued among them. They keep the Lord's day in the highest veneration. As soon as it became practicable they abandoned polygamy and with- INTEGRITY OF THE KOOTENAIS, I225 out the least ill will or trouble, I always remarked great love and attachment of the parents toward their children, great regard for each other, for quarrels were of the rarest occurrence and no stranger could come amongst them with out meeting with a kind reception and finding hospitality. They were strictly honest toward one another and likewise toward strangers. Even any object found was carefully remitted to the chief, who proclaimed it aloud at the camp ing place to return it to the owner. My mission-house was of necessity often left alone, but nothing was ever missed. My friends, the Kootenais, had a trading post on their lands provided with goods for their use. The trader (Mr. Berton) was sometimes absent for weeks or months. The Indians went in and served themselves according to their wants ; replaced in furs and skins for the goods taken out ; and upon the testimony of the trader (I use his words), " his confidence in their honesty was never abused," Their moral conduct was admirable and commendable. Every at tempt at seduction, either by young men or by adults, was punished with a severe flogging. During my several years' intercourse and experience with these mountain Indians, I never heard of an adulterer. I had an adopted Indian brother, named Moses, sur named The Brave of the Braves. His exemplary conduct took pace with his renowned bravery and he was generally looked up to and esteemed. I was with him when he called upon the chief who had just performed his duty after his morning prayer and as justice of peace in flogging a guilty young Nez Perce, who had recently arrived amongst them and was ignorant of their laws and customs. Moses took off his buffalo robe, exposed his bare back, shook hands with the judge, and stipulated, himself, to receive twenty-five well-laid-down lashes. I here interposed and inquired into the motive and cause of his action. He answered me with a smile, equally admirable for his simplicity and sincerity: " Father, the Nez Perce here present was whipped because he talked foolishly to a girl. My thoughts are sometimes 1226 BROTHER MOSES DISCIPLINES HIS THOUGHTS, bewildering and vexing and I have prayed to drive them from my mind and heart," I consoled him with a few words of advice and encouraged him to persevere manfully in the service of the Great Spirit, who would have pity on him and help him in his tribulations, and he was not flogged. As to agriculture and other manual-labor work, it was easily introduced amongst them and they set joyfully to work as far as the few plows and other instruments we had would allow them. Each family had its field of weed [wheat?] and its garden of vegetables. Each mission was provided with a mill and carpenter and blacksmith shops, I might here adduce many more characteristic traits of the mountain Indians. I shall rejoice if I have not ex ceeded the limit of my letter and if, in any way, I have come up to your intention and expectation in these some what hurriedly written pages. Please accept my good will in what I have the honor to address to you, with my best wishes and prayers in the deliberations you are about to assume for the welfare of the Indian tribes. Permit me to add the following testimonies, confirming what I have said of the religious dispositions of the moun tain Indians, In the Explorations and Surveys (of Gov ernor Stevens) for a Railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean, Vol. i, page 308, Captain John Mullan, of said expedition, writes, September 14, 1853 : " When the guide and myself had reached their camp (Flathead) three or four men met us at the entrance and invited us to enter the lodge of their chief. They very kindly took care of our horses, unsaddling and watering them. As soon as the camp had heard of the arrival of a white man among them, the principal men of the tribe congregated in the lodge of the chief. When they had all assembled, by a signal from their chief they offered up a prayer. This astonished me, it was something for which I had not been prepared. Every one was upon his knees, and in the most solemn and reverential manner offered up a prayer to God. For a SOME PUBLIC TESTIMONIALS, I227 moment I asked myself, was I among Indians? Was I among those termed by every one savages? I could scarcely realize it. To think that these men should be thus imbued, and so deeply too, with the principles of religion, was to me overwhelming," From the late (1869) Report of the Commissioners of Indian Affairs to the Secretary of the Interior I take an extract from McConley's letter, U, S. Indian Agent, page 254, speaking of the Flatheads and Pend d'Oreilles, says : " These people possess strong religious feelings as the well- filled and commodious church of the Reverend Fathers of St, Ignatius' Mission on every Sabbath testifies. The mis sionary labors of the Reverend Fathers have not been in vain, for many of them are exemplary Christians. I may here remark that the labors of the Reverend Fathers have been very arduous and difficult. Poor and unaided, they have established their mission, built their church and school, arid maintained themselves solely by their own exertion. Not only this, but they have been, at the same time, priest, physician and benefactor to these tribes. * * * Still more, in conjunction with the noble Sisters of Charity they educate, clothe and feed the orphans of these tribes with out fee or reward. * * * Without their aid and in fluence, the wrongs inflicted upon these people would long since have driven them to war." I give the above extract of McConley to draw your at tention to these missions and take the liberty of recom mending them to you, should the opportunity present itself. I have visited and traveled among most of the Indian tribes of the upper Missouri river and its tributaries and plains, during the space of about thirty years. I am happy to be able to bear testimony that I have been on all occasions kindly received and entertained by them and have ever found them attentive to religious instruction. It is my candid opinion that much good might have been, and can still be, effected among the Indians, if they are properly and justly dealt with by the whites. PART VIII. MISSIONARY WORK AMONG THE INDIANS. (When not otherwise noted, the letters in this part are here pub lished for the first time,) CHAPTER I, THE FLATHEAD AND OTHER MISSIONS,^ The Kalispel church — Virtues of Standing Grizzly — Victor and Insula — Beginning of present St. Ignatius Mission — American and European savages — Indian uprising feared — Object to parting with their lands — The little news of a remote mission. To the Editor of the Precis Historiques, Brussels: University of St, Louis, April, 1856. Reverend and Dear Father: ?If INCLOSE you a letter of Reverend Adrian Hoeken, ¦¦ brother of Christian, whose death you announced in your volume of 1853, page 394. Father Adrian Hoeken was one of my earliest traveling companions in the missionary journeys to the Flatheads, He has ever labored, and still continues to labor here, with the greatest zeal and the most plentiful results, I have this month dispatched a perfect cargo to him, by a steamer which was about to ascend the Missouri. It con sisted of tools, clothes and provisions of all kinds. The boat will go 2,200 miles ; then the goods will be transported by a barge, which will have to stem the rapid current about 600 miles; there will then remain 300 miles by land with wagons, through mountain defiles; so that the objects shipped in April can arrive among the Flatheads only in the month of October, 1 From Western Missions and Missionaries, p. 295. [1228] A FERVENT CONGREGATION, I229 We hope that other evangelical laborers will soon go to assist Father Hoeken, The savages request missionaries. We shall perceive that this mission and that of the Pend d'Oreilles continue to flourish, " Flathead Camp in the Blackfeet Country, Oct, i8, 1855- Reverend and Dear Father: " You will thank God with me for the consoling increase he has given, through the intercession of Mary, to the mis sions which you began in those remote parts. During the many years that I have passed among the Kalispels, though my labors have not been light and my trials have been nu merous enough, God has given me in abundance the conso lations of the missionary, in the lively faith and sincere piety of our neophytes. We have found means to build a beauti ful church, which has excited the admiration of even Lieu tenant Mullan, of the United States army. This church is sufficiently large to contain the whole tribe, and on Sundays and festival days, when our Indians have adorned it with what ornaments of green boughs and -wiild flowers the woods and prairies supply ; when they sing in it their devout hymns with fervor during the holy sacrifice, it might serve as a sub ject of edification and an example to quicken the zeal of many an old Christian congregation. There is among our converts a universal and very tender devotion to the Blessed Virgin, a most evident mark that the faith has taken deep root in their souls. Every day, morning and evening, the families assemble in their lodges to recite the rosary in com mon, and daily they beg of Mary to thank God for them for having called them from the wild life of the forest, spent as it is in ignorance, rapine and bloodshed, to the blessings of the true religion and its immortal hopes, " The Kalispels have sustained a great loss in the death of their pious chief, Loyola, with whose euphonious Indian name, Etsowish-simmegee-itshin, " Standing Grizzly," you 1230 DEATH OF LOYOLA, THE KALISPEL, are familiar. Ever since you baptized this excellent Indian chieftain, he was al^vays steadfast in the faith. He daily made progress in virtue and became more fervent in the practices of our holy religion. He was a father to his peo ple, firm in repressing their disorders and zealous in exhort ing them to be faithful to the lessons of the missionaries. In the severe trials to which divine Providence subjected his virtue in his latter years, when within a short space of time he lost his wife and three of his children, he bore the heavy stroke with the edifying resignation of a Christian. During his last illness, of several weeks' duration, he seemed more anxious to do something still for the promotion of piety among his people, than to have his own great suffer ings alleviated. His death, which occurred on the 6th of April, 1854, was lamented by the Indians with such tokens of sincere grief as I have never before witnessed. There was not that false wailing over his tomb which Indian usage is said to prescribe for a departed chieftain ; they wept over him with heartfelt and heartrending grief, as if each one had lost the best of fathers, and their grief for the good Loyola has not died away even at this day. Never ha.d I thought our Indians capable of so much affection. " As Loyola, contrary to Indian customs, had not desig nated his successor, a new chief was to be chosen after his death. The election, to which all had prepared themselves by prayer, to lead them to a proper choice, ended in an al most unanimous voice for Victor, a brave hunter, whom you as yet must remember as a man remarkable for the generos ity of his disposition. His inauguration took place amid great rejoicing. All the warriors, in their finest costumes, marched to his wigwam, and ranging themselves around it, discharged their muskets, after which each one went up to him to pledge his allegiance and testify his affection by a hearty shaking of hands. During the whole day, numerous parties came to the mission-house to tell the Fathers how much satisfaction they felt at having a chief whose good ness had long since won the hearts of all, Victor alone CHARACTER OF MICHAEL INSULA, I23I seemed sad. He dreaded the responsibility of the chieftain ship, and thought he should be unable to maintain the good effected in the tribe by the excellent chief Loyola. " In the following winter, when there was a great scarc ity, and almost a famine among the Kalispels, Victor gave an affecting proof of his generous self-denying charity. He distributed his own provisions through the camp, hardly reserving for himself enough to sustain life, so that on his return from the annual chase, when yet at a considerable distance from the village, he fell exhausted on the ground, and had to be carried by his companions, to whom on that very day he had given all the food that had been sent up to him for his own use, " The Indian is often described as a being devoid of kind feelings, incapable of gratitude, and breathing only savage hatred and murderous revenge; but in reality he has, in his untamed, uncultured nature, as many generous impulses as the man of any other race, and he only needs the soften ing influence of our holy religion to bring it out in its most touching forms. We need no other proof of it than the grateful remembrance of all the Indians of their late chief Loyola, the generous character of Victor, and the affection ate feelings of all our converted tribes for their missionaries, and especially for you, to whom they look up as to their great benefactor, because you were the first to bring them the good tidings of salvation. " Among our dear Flatheads, Michael Insula, or Red Feather, or as he is commonly called on account of his small stature, ' The Little Chief,' is a remarkable instance of the power which the Church has of developing the most amiable virtues in the fierce Indian. He unites in his person the greatest bravery with the tenderest piety and gentlest manners. Known amid his warriors by the red feather which he wears, his approach is enough to put to flight the prowling bands of Crows and Blackfeet, that have fre quently infested the Flathead territory. He is well known and much beloved by the whites, who have had occasion to 1232 THE SITE OF ST. IGNATIUS. deal With him, as a man of sound judgment, strict integrity, and one on whose fidelity they can implicitly rely. A keen discerner of the characters of men, he loves to speak especi ally of those whites, distinguished for their fine qualities, that have visited him, and often mentions with pleasure the sojourn among them of Colonel Robert Campbell, of St. Louis, and of Major Fitzpatrick, whom he adopted, in ac cordance with Indian ideas of courtesy, as his brothers. He has preserved all his first fervor of devotion, and now, as when you knew him, one can hardly ever enter his wigwam in the morning or evening without finding him with his rosary in his hands, absorbed in prayer. He cherishes a most affectionate remembrance of you and of the day he was bap tized; he longs ardently to see you once more before his death, and but yesterday he asked me, when and by what road you would return. In speaking thus he expressed the desire of all our Indians, who all equally regret your long absence. " It was proposed, during the summer of 1854, to begin a new mission^ about 190 miles northeast of the Kalispels, not far from the Flathead lake, about fifty miles from the old mission of St, Mary's, among the Flatheads, where a con venient site had been pointed out to us by the Kalispel chief, Alexander, your old friend, who often accompanied you in your travels in the Rocky Mountains. Having set out from the Kalispel Mission on the 28th of August, 1854, I arrived at the place designated on the 24th of September, and found it such as it had been represented — a beautiful region, evi dently fertile, uniting a useful as well as pleasing variety of woodland and prairie, lake and river — the whole crowned in the distance by the white summit of the mountains, and sufficiently rich withal in fish and game. I shall never for get the emotions of hope and fear that filled my heart, when for the first time I celebrated mass in this lonely spot, in the open air, in the presence of a numerous band of Kalispels, who looked up to me, under God, * The present St Ignatius, Montana, GATHERING IN THE TRIBES. I233 for their temporal and spiritual welfare in this new home. The place was utterly uninhabited — several bands of Indians live within a few days' travel, whom you formerly visited, and where you baptized many, while others still remain pagan. I was in hope of gathering these around me, and God has been pleased to bless an undertaking begun for his glory, even beyond my expectation. In a few weeks we had erected several frame buildings, a chapel, two houses, carpenter's and blacksmith's shops; wigwams had sprung up at the same time all around in considerable num bers, and morning and evening you might still have heard the sound of the axe and the hammer, and have seen new comers rudely putting together lodges. "About Easter of this year, over 1,000 Indians of different tribes, from the Upper Kootenais and Flat-Bow Indians, Pend d'Oreilles, Flatheads, and Mountain Kalis pels, who had arrived in succession during the winter, when they heard of the arrival of the long-desired Black-gown, made this place their permanent residence. All these In dians have manifested the best dispositions. Besides a large number of children baptized in the course of the year, I have had the happiness to baptize, before Christmas and Easter, upwards of 150 adults of the Kootenai tribe, men of great docility and artlessness of character, who told me that ever since you had been among them, some years ago, they had abandoned the practice of gambling and other vices, and cherished the hope of being instructed one day in the religion of the Great Spirit, " By the beginning of spring, our good Brother McGean had cut some 18,000 rails; and placed under cultiva tion a large field, which promises to yield a very plen tiful harvest. Lieutenant Mullan, who spent the winter among the Flatheads of St. Mary's, has procured me much valuable aid in founding this mission, and has all along taken a lively interest in its prosperity. I know not how to acquit the debt of gratitude I owe this most excellent officer, and I can only pray, poor missionary as I am, that the Lord 78 1234 MANY SUPPLIES NEEDED. may repay his generosity and kindness a hundredfold in blessings of time and eternity. We are still in want of a great many useful and important articles — indeed, of an absolute necessity in the establishing of this new mission. I am confident, many friends of the poor Indians may be found in the United States, who will most willingly contrib ute their mite in such a charitable undertaking — we will be most grateful to them, and our good neophytes, in whose behalf I make the appeal, will not cease to pray fpr their kind benefactors. " Please make arrangements with the American Fur Company to have goods brought up by the Missouri river to Fort Benton, whence I could get them conveyed in wagons across the mountains to the missionary station, "The Right Reverend Magloire Blanchet, Bishop of Nis- qually, who in his first visit to the Mission of St. Ignatius near Lake De Boey, confirmed over 600 Indians, although he arrived unexpectedly, when a great many families had gone to their hunting grounds, among the Kalispels and our neighboring missions, intended to give confirmation here this summer. I was very desirous of the arrival of this pious prelate, who has done so much good, by his fervent exhortations, to strengthen our neophytes in the faith. It had already been agreed upon that a party of Indians should go to meet him as far as the village of the Sacred Heart, among the Coeur d'Alenes, about 200 miles from St. Ignatius' Mission, when our plans were broken up by a message from Governor Stevens, summoning all our In dians to a council to be held some thirty miles off, in St. Mary's or Bitter Root valley, at a place called Hellgate, whence a number of chiefs and warriors were to accompany him to a Grand Council of Peace among the Blackfeet. I was absent on a visit to our brethren among the Coeur d'Alenes, the Skoyelpis, and other tribes, when I received an invitation from the Governor to be present at the coun cils. I had found, in my visit, all our missions rich in good works and conversions, though very poor in the goods of SOME VACCINATION STATISTICS. I235 this world — all the Fathers and Brothers were in the enjoy ment of excellent health. Father Joset, among the Skoyel pis, at the Kettle Falls of the Columbia, had baptized a large number of adults and children. During the late preva lence of the smallpox, there were hardly any deaths from it among the neophytes, as most of them had been previously vaccinated by us, while the Spokans and other unconverted Indians, who said the ' medicine (vaccine) of the Fathers was a poison, used only to kill them,' were swept away by hundreds. This contrast, of course, had the effect of in creasing the influence of the missionaries, " With mingled feelings of joy at all the good effected, and of sorrow at the miserable death of so many of God's creatures — thankful to God for all his blessings, and sub missive to the mysterious judgments of his Providence, I set out, accompanied by my neophytes, for the Blackfeet territory. The grand council took place in the vicinity of Fort Benton, Our Indians, who were in great expectation of seeing you with Majors Cummings and Culbertson, were indeed much disappointed at not finding you. The Black feet, although they are still much given to thieving and ^lave committed more depredations than ever, during the last spring, are very anxious to see you again, and to have missionaries among them. Governor Stevens, who has al ways shown himself a real father and well affected toward our Indians, has expressed a determination to do all in his power to forward the success of the missions. The estab lishment of a mission among the Blackfeet would be the best, and indeed the only means to make them observe the treaty of peace which has just been concluded. Until mis sionaries are sent, I intend, from time to time, to visit the Blackfeet, so as to do for them what good I may, and pre pare the way for the conversion of the whole tribe. I hope a new mission may soon be realized, for it is absolutely necessary, both for their own sake and for the peace of our converted Indians on the western side of the Rocky Mountains. 1236 GENERAL DESIRE FOR BLACK-ROBES, " From all I have seen, and from all I have learned dur ing this last trip, I may say that the Crows and all the tribes on the upper waters of the Missouri, as well as the various bands of Blackfeet, where so many children have already been regenerated in the holy waters of baptism, by you and by Father Point, are anxious to have the Black- robes permanently among them, and to learn ' the prayer of the Great Spirit,' The field seems ripe for the harvest. Let us pray that God may soon send zealous laborers to this far-distant and abandoned region. " The Kalispel chief Alexander, Michael Insula and the other Flathead chieftains, the leaders of the Kootenai and Flat-Bow bands, and all our neophytes, beg to be remem bered in your good prayers — they, on their part, never for get to pray for you. Please remember me, " Your devoted brother in Christ, "ADRIAN HOEKEN, S. J," The following extract from a letter of Reverend T, Con- giato, superior of the Missions of the Society of Jesus in California and Oregon, written since the commencement of Indian hostilities, and dated Santa Clara, 29th of last No vember, will perhaps prove not uninteresting to those who take an interest in the success of our Catholic mission. Rev erend T, Congiato writes : " On my return from our missions among the Rocky Mountains, which it took me three months to visit, I found here a letter of yours full of edifying news, for which I am very thankful. Our college here is progressing. The num ber of members of our Society is on the increase, and reaches nearly forty. All over California, our holy religion is making great progress, and priests and churches are mul tiplying. In the Oregon missions our Fathers are doing much good. At the mountains Father Adrian Hoeken, a worthy brother of Father Christian Hoeken, the apostle INFLUENCE OF MISSIONS FOR PEACE. I237 and zealous missionary among the Potawatomies, who died in 1 85 1, while on his way to the Upper Missouri tribes, has succeeded in bringing three nations and a part of the Flat- heads to live under his spiritual guidance. Everything seemed to be going on well when I left Oregon, but now the country appears on fire. All the Indians living on the banks of the Columbia, from Walla Walla down to the Dalles Mountains, together with the Indians of North Cali fornia, are in arms against the whites, and commit great depredations. One of the Father Oblates, Father Pandory, has been killed. Please pray, and make others pray for our brethren in Oregon. The last accounts I received from St. Paul's Mission, at Colville, stated that our Indians disap proved highly of the depredations committed by the other Indians, and showed no disposition whatever to join them." It may, indeed, be confidently anticipated that the Indians of the Catholic missions of the mountains, who have always shown great kindness to the whites, and have always lived in peace with them, will continue to listen to the good coun sel and advice of the missionaries, and will abstain from any act of hostility. Moreover, they are removed from the seat of war, and have seldom had any intercourse with the hostile tribes. Most Respectfully, etc. University of St. Louis, August 4, 1857.' Reverend and Dear Father: You will find inclosed in this letter a recent letter from Reverend Adrian Hoeken, S. J. I hope that it will merit a place in your Precis Historiques. In Holland I am sure it will afford pleasure. ********* 3 To the editor of the Precis Historiques, Brussels. From Western Missions and Missionaries, p. 306. 1238 MORE SAVAGE THAN THE SAVAGES. The expression of the sentiments of the poor Indians hi my regard fill me with confusion, and I would not have sent the letter entire, but that you insisted on my sending each piece entire. For the rest, we must never forget that these wretched Indians, deprived of everything, and neg lected by other men, experience an excessive joy for the least benefit, and feel grateful to any one who treats them with a little attention, A great lesson for our fellow countrymen. Among those whom infidel and revolutionary writers in Belgium style savages and barbarians, you could not find one enough so to figure in the bands of Jemappes, or even in the rioters of Brussels, Antwerp, Ghent and Mons, Here the Black-gown is respected, loved. The Indians perceive in him the emblem of the happiness that the missionary brings him in presenting him the torch of faith. Letter of Reverend Father Adrian Hoeken. Mission of the Flatheads, April 15, 1857. Reverend and Beloved Father: Before entering into a few details, I beg you to excuse the want of order in this letter. Much time has elapsed since I had the pleasure of receiving news from you, who have so many titles to my love and gratitude, and whose name is frequently on the lips, and always in the hearts, of each of the inhabitants of this remote region. Your letter of the 27th and 28th of March reached us toward the end of August; it was read, or rather devoured, with avidity, so dear was it to our hearts. It was remitted to us by our chief, Alexander, who accompanied Mr, R, H, Lansdale to the Cceur d'Alenes, Scarcely had we cast a glance at the ad dress and recognized your handwriting, than, not being able to contain our joy, all with one consent cried out : " Father DeSmet! Father DeSmet!" You cannot imagine the DE SMET REMEMBERH) BY THE INDIANS, I239 delight your letters afford us and our dear Indians, God be praised ! Your name will be ever held in benediction among these poor children of the Rocky Mountains, Ah! how often they ask me these questions : " When, oh when ! will Father De Smet come to us ? Will he ever again ascend the Missouri ? Is it true that he will not come to Fort Benton this fall ? " These, and many other similar questions, show how dear to them is the remembrance of their father in Christ ; of him who first broke to them the bread of eternal life, and showed them the true way to happiness on earth and bliss hereafter. It is not strange, then, that your letters should have been read several times, and that every time they gave us new pleasure and excited new interest. I can never cease admiring Divine Providence, which pre sides over all, and which in particular takes care of our beloved missions. Among the unnumbered proofs of its continual protection, your assistance in our late distress, and the liberality of our benefactors, are not less remarkable nor less worthy of our gratitude. Our storehouses were empty, and the war between the Indians nearest the seaboard took away all hope of procuring other resources. Never, never was charity more appropriate nor received with greater joy. May heaven prolong your days and those of our bene factors! May you continue to foster the same interest to ward us that, until the present moment, you have never ceased to testify ! Yes, beloved father, let the recollection of our missions be ever equally dear to you. They are the fruit of your own heroic zeal, fatigues and labors. Ah! never forget our dear Indians; they are your children in Christ, the offspring of your boundless charity and your unwearied zeal ! During the months of June, July and August, disease raged cruelly in our camp, as well as in that of the Flatheads. However, there were few victims of its terrible attacks. Father Menetrey, my colaborer, visited the Flatheads, where he had been asked for by the chief, Fidelis Teltella (Thunder) , whose son was dangerously ill. Later, I visited 1240 GENERAL RISING FORESEEN, them myself in their camas prairies. A second time, in the opening of the month of June, I remained some days with them, at Hellgate, and I distributed medicines to all those who had been seized with the epidemic, and a little wheat flour to each family. Victor, the great chief, Ambrose, Moses, Fidelis, Adolphus, and several others, came here of their own accord, to fulfill their religious duties. Since last spring there has been a notable amelioration in the whole nation, Ambrose has effected the most good. He had con vened several assemblies, in order to arrange and pay off old debts, to repair wrongs, etc. The Indians appear, how ever, very reluctant to part with their lands; they will scarcely hear of the dispositions to be taken. Father Ravalli labored as much as he could to pacify the tribes which reside toward the west, namely: the Cayuses, the Yakimas, the Palooses, etc. As Qur neophytes hitherto have taken no part in the war, the country is as safe for us as ever. We can go freely wheresoever we desire. No one is ignorant that the Black-gowns are not enemies; those, at least, who are among the Indians, Almost all the Cceur d'Alenes, in order to shield themselves from the hostilities of the Indians, and to avoid all relations with them, are gone bison hunting. A few days since, Father Joset wrote me that Father Ravalli had already written to him several weeks before : " I fear a general rising among the Indians, toward the commencement of spring. Let us pray, and let us engage others to pray with us, in order to avert this calamity. I think that it would be well to add to the ordi nary prayers of the mass, the collect for peace." If the less well-intentioned Indians from the lower lands would keep within their own territory, and if the whites, the number of whom is daily augmenting in St. Mary's valley, could act with moderation, and conduct themselves pru dently, I am convinced that soon the whole country would be at peace, and that not a single Indian would hencefor ward imbrue his hands in the blood of a white stranger. Were I authorized to suggest a plan, I would propose to SUCCESSFUL AGRICULTURE, I24I have all the upper lands evacuated by the whites, and form of it a territory exclusively of Indians; afterward I would " lead there all the Indians of the inferior portion, such as the Nez Perces, the Cayuses, the Yakimas, the Coeur d'Alenes and the Spokans, Well-known facts lead me to believe that this plan, with such superior advantages, might be effected, by means of missions, in the space of two or three years. Our Indians here are doing well. Last spring we sowed about fifty bushels of wheat, and planted a quantity of po tatoes, cabbages and turnips. God has graciously blessed our labors and our fields. Here all generally like agricul ture. We give the seeds gratis to everybody. Our plows and our tools are also free to be used by them. We even lend our horses and oxen to the poorest among the Indians, and we grind all their grain gratuitously. But our mill, which goes by horse-power, is very small, and we are not able to build another, Mr. R. H. Lansdale, agent of the Government, a very just and upright man, has assumed his functions at the Plum- trees, a place situated quite near the place where we cross the river, a few miles from this. We gave him all the assistance of which we were capable, I had indulged the hope that the Government would come to our aid, at least for the building of a small church ; but so far my expecta tions have been frustrated, Alas! are we never to cease deploring the loss of our little church among the Kalispels ? Several of these latter named, and among others, Victor, on seeing the chapel, formerly so dear to them, but now for saken and neglected, shed tears of regret. When, oh when! shall the oppressed Indian find a poor corner of earth on which he may lead a peaceful life, serv ing and loving his God in tranquiUity, and preserving the ashes of his ancestors without fear of beholding them pro faned and trampled beneath the feet of an unjust usurper? Several among the Kalispels, Victor and others, already have possessions here. However, they have not yet re nounced those which they own in the country lower down. 1242 EASY DAYS AT ST, IGNATIUS, Twelve very poor habitations are the beginning of our town called St, Ignatius. Our little abode, although very modest, is sufficiently comfortable. To any other than you, this word comfortable might sound singular ; but you. Reverend Father, who understand perfectly what it means when ap plied to a poor missionary, will comprehend the relative application of the word. Our community numbers six mem bers. Father Joseph Menetrey, who is missionary, prefect of out chapel, and inspector in chief of our fields, etc. ; Brother McGean, farmer; Brother Vincent Magri, dis penser, carpenter and miller ; Brother Joseph Specht, black smith, baker and gardener; Brother Francis Huybrechts, carpenter and sacristan, I intend going to Colville after the harvest and during the absence of the Indians, Father Menetrey, of his own free will, went to Fort Ben ton with a pair of horses. The distance by the great road is 294 miles. He took horses because we could with difficulty spare our oxen, and also because, according to information received from Mr, Lansdale, the road is impassable to oxen which have not, like horses, iron shoes. Father Menetrey arrived at the fort on the 17th of September, and was very favorably received by the occupants ; but he was obliged to wait some time for the boats. He speaks with high eulogi- ums of the Blackfeet, and regrets that he has not jurisdiction in that part of the mountains. He returned on the 12th of November. How express to you, Reverend Father, the joy that filled our hearts, when we opened your letters and the different cases which you had the charity to send us ? We each and all wept with grateful joy ! In vain, the night following, I strove to calm the emotions that these missives, as well as the liberality of our benefactors, had produced in my heart ; I could not close my eyes. All the community, yes, the whole camp, participated in my delight. In unison we ren dered thanks to Divine Providence, and that day was a per fect holiday. The next day, having a little recovered from SUPPLIES FOR THE MISSION, I243 my excitement, I was ashamed of my weakness. You who know what it is to be a missionary; you who know so well his privations, his trials, his pangs, you will easily forgive my excessive sensibility, I had agreed with Father Congiato that he would send your Reverence my lists, as well as the money that he might allow me. I was bolder in soliciting your charity and your benevolence in our favor, because I knew the love and inter est that you bear to our missions; and that, on the other hand, I only executed a plan that yourself had conceived and suggested, when, in consideration of the circumstances, it would have appeared to every one else illusory and incapa ble of execution. Scarcely had Father Menetrey gone than I received a let ter from Father Congiato, in which he said to me : " If you think that your supplies can be furnished at a more reason able price from Missouri, order them thence, I will pay the cost. Write on this subject to Reverend Father De Smet." Had I received this letter somewhat later, I scarcely know what would have been my decision; for it is very doubtful that we should have been able to find any one who would return to Fort Benton. I entreat you, be so good as to ex cuse the trouble that we give you ; our extraordinary situa tion is the sole excuse that I can offer in favor of our importunity. A thousand thanks to you, and to all our benefactors who concurred so generously in the support of our missions, I also thank our kind brethren in St. Louis, for the very interesting letters that they had the kindness to write me. Receive, too, our grateful sentiments, Reverend Father, for the catalogues of the different provinces, the classical books. Shea's Catholic Missions, the works of con troversy, etc., etc, I should never conclude did I attempt to enumerate all your gifts, which we were so overjoyed to ' receive. Brother Joseph was beside himself with gladness when his eyes fell on the little packages of seeds, the files, scissors and other similar objects. Accept, in fine, our thanks for the piece of broadcloth you sent us ; by this favor 1244 0^^ FRIENDS REMEMBRANCE. we continue to be Black-robes. Ah! with my whole heart I wish that you could have seen us as we were opening the boxes. Each object excited new cries of joy and augmented our grateful love for the donors. All arrived in good order. The snuff had got a little mixed with the clover seed, but no matter ; my nose is not very delicate. It is the first donation sent into these mountains, at least since I have been here. We bless God, who watches over all of his children with so much care and liberality, even over those who appear to be the most forsaken. On the following day I sent Father Joset his letters, I found an opportunity that very day. It would have been very agreeable to me to receive a copy of all your letters published since 1836, The portraits were very dear to me. I could not recognize Father Verdin's, but Brother Joseph knew it at the first glance. Yours was also recognized at once by a great number of the Indians, and on seeing it they shouted " Pikek an !" * It made the tour of the village, and yesterday again, an inhabitant of Kootenai came to me with the sole intention of " paying a visit to Father De Smet." This did them an immense good, only seeing the portrait of him who was the first to bear them the light of faith in these regions, still overshadowed with the darkness of moral death ; and who first dissipated the mists in which they and their progenitors during untold ages had been enveloped. Believe me. Reverend Father, not a day passes, without their prayers ascending to heaven for you. In what manner can we testify our gratitude in regard to the two benefactors who so generously charged themselves with the care of transporting and delivering to us our cases without consenting to accept the slightest recompense ? Un doubtedly they will reap a large share in the sacrifices and * The venerable Father J. D'Aste, of St. Ignatius' Mission, thus ex plains this expression : " ' Pikokan ' means White Head, being com posed of the word ipik (white) and the final kan, which in composi tion stands for ' head.' But there must be a mistake here, because when Father De Smet left the mountains forever, he had not yet white hair." EXECUTING TREATY STIPULATIONS, 1 245 prayers that daily rise to heaven for all our benefactors, and which are with a grateful heart and the remembrance of their beneficence toward us, the only tokens of our thank fulness that we can offer them. How noble the sentiment which prompted them gratuitously to burden themselves and their boats with the charitable gifts, destined by the faithful to the destitute missionaries of the Indians! Heaven, who knows our poverty, will reward them with better gifts than we could have imagined suitable to their liberality. The package destined for Michael Insula, the "Little Chief," lies here for the present. He has not yet opened it. The good man is abroad on a hunting excursion; bur we expect him back in a few days. I doubt not that he will be very sensible to these marks of friendship, or, as he usu ally expresses it, " these marks of fraternity." He set out from here, when he had harvested the grain he had sowed. Always equally good, equally happy, a fervent Christian, he is daily advancing in virtue and in perfection. He has a young son, Louis Michael, whom he teaches to call me papa. It is a real pleasure to him to be able to speak of your Rev erence and of his two adopted brothers, Messrs. Campbell and Fitzpatrick. I will give him the packet directly after his return, and will inform you of the sentiments with whicli he will have received it, as well as his reply. Here in our missions, we already observe all the condi tions stipulated in the treaty concluded last year by Gov ernor Stevens, at Hellgate. Our brothers assist the Indians, and teach them how to cultivate the ground. They distribute the fields and the seeds for sowing and planting, as well as the plows and other agricultural instruments. Our black smith works for them : he repairs their guns, their axes, their knives; the carpenter renders them great assistance in con structing their houses, by making the doors and windows ; in fine, our little mill is daily in use for grinding their grain, gratis; we distribute some medicines to the sick ; — in a word, all we have and all we are is sacrificed to the welfare of the 1246 '.WEALTH NOT THE MISSIONARY'S AIM, Indian. The savings that our religious economy enables us to make, we retain solely to relieve their miseries. What ever we gain by manual labor and by the sweat of the brow, is theirs! Through love of Jesus Christ, we are ready to sacrifice all, even life itself. Last year we opened our school ; but circumstances forced us to close it. Next spring we shall have a brother capable of teaching, and we intend opening it a second time; but in the interval we shall not earn a cent. During last October, the snow forced Fathers Joset and Ravalli and Brother Saveo to return to the Coeur d'Alenes, We have done, and shall continue to do, all that lies in our power for the Government officers. Still our poor mis sion has never received a farthing from the Government, Do not think. Reverend Father, that I complain — oh no ! you are too well assured no earthly good could ever induce us to work and suffer as we do here. As wealth itself could never recompense our toils, so privations are incapable of leading us to renounce our noble enterprise. Heaven, heaven alone is our aim; and that reward will far exceed our deserts. On the other hand, we are consoled by the reflection that he who provides for the birds of the air will never abandon his tenderly loved children. Yet it is not less true, that, if we had resources (humanly speaking), our missions would be more flourishing; and that many things that we now accomplish only with great patience and sore privations, and which again frequently depend upon contin gencies, could be effected more rapidly and with less uncer tainty of success. In our mission there are persons of such a variety of nations, that we form, so to speak, a heaven in miniature. First, our community is composed of six members, all of whom are natives of different lands. Then we have Creoles ; Genetzi, whose wife is Susanna, daughter of the old Ignatius Chaves; Abraham and Peter Tinsley, sons of old Jacques Boiteux; Alexander Thibault, a Canadian, and Derpens. There are some Iroquois : old Ignatius is settled here, as well DISPOSITION OF THE BLACKFEET.l I247 as the family of Iroquois Peter. The death of this venerable old man is a great loss to the mission. Then we have Cre oles from the Creek nation ; Pierrish, and Anson, with his brothers; then some Flatheads; Kalispels; two camps of Pend d'Oreilles; then several Spokans; some Nez Preces, Kootenais, Coeur d'Alenes, and Kettle-Falls Indians ; a few Americans, settled a few miles from here ; and some Black feet. All, though of different nations, live together like brethren and in perfect harmony. They have, like the primi tive Christians, but one heart and one mind. Last spring, and during the summer following, we had several Blackfeet here. They behaved extremely well. Among others, the Little Dog, chief of the Piegans, with some members of his family. They entered our camp with the American flag unfurled, and marching to the tones of martial music and an innumerable quantity of little bells. The very horses pranced in accordance with the measure, and assumed a stately deportment at the harmony of the national hymn. We held several conferences with the chief concerning religion. He complained that the whites, who had been in communication with them, had never treated this so import ant affair. So far the best understanding reigns between us, and it would appear that all the old difficulties are forgotten. May heaven keep them in these favorable dispositions. Last summer the Crows stole about twenty horses from our na tion, A few days after, others visited our camp. The re membrance of this theft so excited the people that, forget ting the law of nations, which secures protection to even the greatest enemy as soon as he puts his foot within the camp, they fell upon the poor guests, and killed two of thera ere they had time to escape. May God bless the Government for establishing peace among the Blackfeet ! However, as hitherto the means have not proved very efficacious, I fear that the quiet will not be of very long duration. I trust that our Society will one day effect a more enduring peace. A raission among them 1248 EPIDEMICS OF MAN AND BEAST, would, I am persuaded, produce this blessed result. And if to bedew this hitherto ungrateful soil requires the blood of some happy missionary, it would bring forth a hundred fold, and the Blackfeet would respect our holy religion, I am much distressed at learning that an epidemic disease is making terrible ravages among the Blackfeet, Accord ing to the last news, about 1 50 Indians had perished in one camp alone, near Fort Benton, When the malady had ceased scourging men, it fell upon their horses. Many are dead already, and many are dying. We have lost five. Our hunters are forced to go to the chase on foot ; for, according to their account, all the horses are sick. If the Nez Perces lose their horses in the war with Government, horses will be very dear here. Michael, the Little Chief, has arrived. I presented him the gracious gift of Colonel Campbell, He was astonished that the colonel should think of him, and was much moved at this mark of attachment. Then he cited a long list of kindred, dead since his last interview with Colonel Camp bell, and entertained rae at length with the great nuraber of Americans that he had seen annually passing Fort Hall. He told me with what solicitude and anxiety he sought his friend among those successive multitudes, and when at length he could not discover hira, he believed that he was dead. Our Indians are bison hunting, and quite successful. Five Spokans have been killed by the Bannocks, and six of these last killed by the Spokans and Coeur d'Alenes. The Flat- heads have had a man killed by the same Bannocks. Louis, Ambrose's son, was killed last fall by the Grosvaitres. All last winter a good understanding prevailed araong the Blackfeet. Many of them will come, I think, and reside with us. The Nez Perces and the Spokans endeavor to spread a bad spirit among the Indians who reside in the country be low. They endeavor to communicate their hatred of the Americans; but our chiefs are firm, and will in no wise ILL FEELING BETWEEN TRIBES. 1 249 acquiesce in the desire of their enemies, Victor, the great chief, and Ambrose, are here again, in order to accomplish their spiritual duties. Unfortunately a great antipathy pre vails among these tribes. Mr, McArthur, formerly agent of the Hudson Bay Com pany, has now settled at Hellgate, To conclude. Reverend Father, I entreat you to believe that, notwithstanding your reiterated exhortations to as sure me, it is not without a feeling of restraint that I inclose you anew the list of things we need this year. I am aware that you are weighed down with business ; but who, as well as yourself, can know and understand our position ? I entreat you to present my respects to all my kind friends who are at the university, at St, Charles, and elsewhere. Your reverence's most respectful servant, A, HOEKEN, S, J, CHAPTER II. LETTERS FROM THE RESIDENT MISSIONARIES,^ Adventures of a missionary — Sufferings and danger — A Dakota blizzard — Charles Larpenteur — Needs of the Sioux — Iowa in 1851 — Dangers of delay. The Sioux. Ta the Editor of the Precis Historiques, Brussels:''- Paris, November 17, 1856, Reverend and Dear Father: ?If FIND with pleasure in your number of the 15th inst,, " the interesting letter of Father Adrian Hoeken, writ ten to me frora the Flathead camp, which I sent you from St, Louis before I started for Belgium, Herewith are four letters of his brother. Father Chris tian Hoeken, which will, I think, be found as interesting as Father Adrian's, In a few days I shall see you at Brussels, First Letter of Father Christian Hoeken to Father De Smet. Sioux Country, Fort Vermilion, Dec, 11, 1850. Reverend and Dear Father: You have doubtless learned by Father Duerinck's let ters that I set out last June for the Sioux country. The season was quite favorable when I left Kansas, but I had a pretty cold time as I crossed Missouri, Iowa and Minne sota till I got to the post of the American Fur Com- * From Western Missions and Missionaries, p. 263. [1250] ADRIFT IN A BLIZZARD. I25I pany, called Fort Vermilion. My inability to find a good guide to lead me to Fort Pierre, the great post of the Mis souri, made me lose five days of excellent weather. At last I succeeded in finding a companion who had crossed backward and forward, for the last thirty-three years, every plain, mountain, forest and prairie of the West. I set out the day before the weather changed. On the third day the snow overtook us. On reaching James river we found it impassable ; the water was too high and too cold for our horses to swim it. We had to ascend it to find a ford. We traveled eight or nine days without find ing any place or means to cross. A violent north wind set in, so that we were nearly frozen to death. We accord ingly began to descend the valley of the river, but had not made over five or six miles when night surprised us, and we had to encamp in a spot which offered scarce wood enough for one night. We had hardly encamped when the north wind began to blow with horrible violence; the snow fell so thick and fast, that you would have said the clouds had burst. You may imagine our position, and how much we pitied each other. Sleep was out of the question. The next morning we struck our camp. The snow and wind raged with unabated fury for two days and two nights. In some spots there were six, fifteen, and even twenty feet of snow. Conceive our position if you can, as we raade our way along the valley of James river, which runs between two chains of mountains, with deep ravines near each other. We were almost out of provisions, entirely alone, in a sad desert, where we could see nothing but snow; we had no one to encourage us, except the spirit of divine charity, at whose voice I had undertaken this painful journey. The snow grew high around us, our horses would not proceed. The gloomy thought that we could never cross the river crushed out all courage ; but I was consoled when I remem bered the words of divine wisdom : " It is good for you to suffer temptation." To fill up our misery, rheumatism seized both my knees, so that I could not set one foot before 1252 WORST IN THIRTY-FIVE YEARS, another. One of our horses fell lame and was no better than myself. Moreover, the keen norther froze my ears, nose and feet, and ray companion's feet. The poor man complained of violent pains in the bowels, caused doubtless by fatigue and hunger. The elements seemed to conspire against us ; and it is only by a special assistance of heaven that we did not perish in this strait, " I never saw anything like it, I have lived, wandered, traveled, for thirty-five years all over the upper Missouri, but never, never was I in such a scrape as this." Such were the frequent exclama tions of my guide. For my part, I was forced by a dire necessity to march against my inclination, or rather to drag myself along as best I could. I gathered up what little courage I had left, I walked on in the snow from morning to night, praying and weeping in turns, making vows and resolutions. The aspirations of the prophets and apostles were the subject of my communications with heaven, " Confirm me, O Lord, in this hour. Rebuke me not in thy fury, and chastise me not in thy wrath." This I re peated at almost every instant. When I sank to my waist in snow, I cried : " Have mercy, Lord, have mercy on us. For thee and for thine have we come unto this hour. Stretch out thy arm to lead us. Lord, we perish." Meanwhile, we advanced painfully over the mountains of snow, till night summoned us to plant our tent, which consisted, be it said here, of a square piece of a skin tent- cover. We set to work with courage, clearing away the snow, getting down a framework and wood enough for our fires at night. The fire is kindled ; we have finished our night prayers ; we have only a morsel to eat. Now, then, repose for a few hours. Impossible, Sleep has fled our eyelids; the smoke blinds and stifles us, at almost every instant we had to cough ; my companion said that it was impossible to distinguish one object from another, the smoke had so blinded him. How sleep, with the wolves howling and prowling around us! The snow and sometimes rain and hail fell on us all night long. Often, while listening for BAD LANGUAGE OF THE GUIDE, I253 any noise, the prayer, " From all danger, rain and hail, de liver us, O Lord !" escaped my trembling lips involuntarily. Thank heaven, the Almighty heard our humble supplica tion ; every day he gave us fine weather, though bitter cold. My greatest fear every morning was that my companion would bring word that our horses were dead of cold or hunger in those bleak and sterile tracts. Had this loss befallen us, our misfortune would have been complete. I put myself and all belonging to me under the special pro tection of our good and amiable patroness, the Blessed Vir gin Immaculate, and I often reminded her, with filial con fidence, that we had been comraitted to her care at the foot of the cross. From day to day, my guide was the more urgent that we should abandon the lame horse so as not to be frozen for him. We had to lose a good part of the day in unloading and reloading him, because he fell at almost every step on the slippery snow; yet by care, pain, fatigue and patience, we arrived with our two horses at Fort Verrailion. Fam ished and almost dying as we were (having had nothing to eat for ten days, but a little bread and a prairie-hen that my companion killed by chance), sleepless and wearied to death, we reached Vermilion on the 8th of December, the feast of the Iramaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary. To express the joy that overflowed my soul on that happy day I would need write in tears, not in ink, and you could trace ray feelings better than if delineated with a pen. I was at the end of hunger, cold, snow, rain, hail, traraping, and blasphemy that filled me with horror every time my corapanion vented his wrath on the horse or the evils we experienced. I rebuked him frequently and begged him to refrain, but in vain ; the poor man had always the same ex cuse : " It was a second nature with him, and he meant no harm," Wretched excuse! I suffered more from his troubles and raurraurs than from all the other miseries put together. To my prayers of blended hope, and fear, and anguish, succeeded now hymns of gratitude and joy. In- 1254 CHARITY OF CHARLES LARPENTEUR, stead of my ordinary aspirations : " Enough, Lord, it is enough. Command the winds and there shall be a great calm. Lord, thou hast said: Ask and you shall receive. Give us this day our daily bread," and so on, I now ex claim : " We praise thee, O Lord ! great is thy power. Lord God of hosts," , Mr, Charles Larpenteur, whose hospitality you have often enjoyed when traveling in the desert to visit the Indian tribes, is now in charge of the post, and he received us with all the goodness of a father. He procured us all that he could. May the Lord bless him, for he deserves it, " The Samaritan in the Gospel," said he, " took care of an unfortunate man, and poured oil and wine into his wounds. Sir," he added, " you are welcome, I offer you all I have ; I wish to treat you as well as is in my power," The dignity and worth of charity are never better felt than on similar occasions, and by beggars like us. I shall spend some days instructing and baptizing a score of people who live around here, I shall endeavor to recover from ray unusual hardships before I start. In the mean while the snow will melt, the roads become better, and I will resume my journey. Receive the assurance of my respect. Present my re spects to the Fathers and Brothers, and believe me. Reverend and Dear Father, Your devoted servant and brother in Christ, CHRISTIAN HOEKEN, S. J, You see. Reverend Father, by this letter of Father Hoe ken, that the consolations of heaven are constantly tem pered by the desolations of earth. This is the support of the laborers in the vineyard of the Lord. I have corae to Europe for missionaries. Belgium has already furnished many. St, Francis Xavier asked for Bel gians. Shall I succeed in getting some? Cannot I count on my own land as much as on Holland, France, or Italy? IMPECUNIOSITY AND HORSE-TRADING. 1255 Second Letter of Father Christian Hoeken. — To Father Elet. Territory of the Platte, Dec, 28, 1850, Reverend and Dear Father Provincial: According to ray express proraise in ray letters, I write to tell you where I have been, and what I have done since I left the Kansas, till ray return from the Upper Missouri, I traveled by the way of Weston, without a cent in my pocket, I had to trust entirely to Providence, A draft of ten dollars on Father De Smet enabled rae to get the actual necessaries for ray journey, I should have drawn more, but it was all they could let me have. On the way I met several old friends, whose liberality did not improve my poverty, I reached St. Joseph at the foot of the Black-snake Hills, My horse could not stand the hard travel. Others were of ray opinion, among them was Mr, Scanlan, who offered me an Indian horse to go as far as Bellevue, and also to take charge of mine. I accepted his kind offer. In two days I was quite disappointed. The horse was very lazy, and weak in the bargain, I changed him at the Great Pacoa [ Platte ?Tarkio?] river for a good horse, whose exterior promised better in the long journey before me, I gave the man a draft on Mr, P. A, Sarpy to pay the difference. On reaching Bellevue, I learned from Mr. Sarpy that Messrs. Bruyere and Argot had started the day before, and that I could easily overtake them; that there was no guide for me, and they knew none about there. I bought the necessary utensils, a little pot, tin-pans, provisions, etc., and started in pursuit of the gentlemen, who live about thirty miles below Fort Vermillion at the mouth of the Great Sioux. I overtook them next day at Boyer River. I trav eled in their company seven days, when we reached the Great Sioux. 1256 INDIANS DESIRE A MISSION. I spent three days there instructing the people, and bap tized fourteen persons. They treated rae with great kind ness, and expressed their extrerae delight at the prospect of the establishment of a Sioux mission. They promised to pay for their children's board. They are not only full of good will, but capable of acting. As for the mixed race of the Santees (a Sioux tribe), they receive frora Government about $1,000 a head, accord ing to the treaty made last year at St. Peter's River in the Upper Missouri. You see, then. Reverend Father, that if we defer founding a raission among them, they will send their children elsewhere. Do not imagine that the number of these poor children, all baptized by Father De Smet and others, is insignificant. The half-breeds exist in great num bers everywhere, with thousands of Indians, Must all these children, of whom several thousand have already re ceived holy baptism, perish for want of instruction? Are they doomed to remain sitting in the shadow of death? May I not announce to them all, the precious tidings of vocation to grace? I trust, in God's mercy, the day of their deliverance is at hand; that they will soon perceive the aid of the Saviour and Redeemer, My daily prayer is (above all at the holy altar) that their expectations and frequent appeals may at length find a term. I forgot to say, that on arriving at Linden, a village situ ated eight miles below the river Nishnabotna, I found Major Matlock very dangerously ill with dysentery. He recognized me at once, and cried out : " Father Hoeken, I atn extremely glad to see you. I wished to see you much a long time ; but I am so indisposed at this moment that I cannot converse with you. Could you not come a little later?" " Most willingly," I replied; " I will see you by and by." An hour after I returned to his room in the hotel; I found him half asleep. He heard my voice, and after having dismissed those who were with him, he spoke to me of his religious convictions. He informed me that he had been brought up in the Methodist sect, but that he OLD SARPY AND LOGAN FONTENELLE. I257 did not believe in their views, and that his raost ardent desire was to become a Catholic, He then made his con fession to me; after which, I baptized him conditionally. He appeared to me to be perfectly contented and resigned to die. I have since learned that he did not long survive his baptism. May he rest in peace. I commend myself to your prayers and sacrifices. Rev erend Father Provincial, Your most humble servant, CHRISTIAN HOEKEN, S, J, Third Letter of Father Christian Hoeken. — To Father Elet. St. Joseph's, Jan. 3, 185 1, Reverend and Very Dear Father Provincial: I was obliged to wait in order to regulate ray account with Mr, P. A. Sarpy, who was absent when I arrived at Council Bluffs. That time was not lost. I had the happi ness of baptizing a great number of children of the Omaha tribe, and I met the young chief, Logan Fontenelle. He is a spiritual child of Father De Smet. He is very worthy of the post he fills in his tribe, and will do all in his power to convert his people and bring them to the true faith.^ I quitted Council Bluffs on the 27th of December, I arrived on the river Nishnabotna at a place called French Village, It is occupied almost exclusively by Canadians, by half-breeds, and a mixture of Indians united among themselves. I was received with much kindness, and em ployed Saturday and Sunday in confirming and strengthen ing them in the faith, 2 He fell, in 1855, in a combat against a great war-party of the Sioux. — {Note by Father De Smet.) 1258 PRACTICAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCE, As soon as my arrival was known, the people collected on all sides, in order to secure to their children the grace of baptism. You can easily imagine what a consolation it was to me after the fatigues of the late journey. On examin ing the state of things, I found that those people needed in struction in regard to the sacrament of marriage. They listened to me with profound attention, and followed my advice on this point. I baptized sixteen persons, among whom was one converted from Mormonism and one Sioux squaw. I gave the nuptial benediction to three couples. In the midst of a meeting held in a private house, the con versation fell on the construction of a village church; each one offered his services, and promised to approach the sac raments. How great and plentiful is the harvest, but alas, how few are the reapers! We must, in truth, but in sad ness, repeat with the prophet Jeremiah : " The children ask bread and there is no one to break it to them," What a vast field for them of whom the scripture says : " How beautiful upon the mountains are the footsteps of those who proclaim the glad tidings of peace and salvation," A month's traveling in the desert through which these people are wandering depri^red of instruction, would bestow on our missionaries greater experience of the evils of ig norance and of superstition, than many years passed in studying thera in books and writings, and one hour of con versation would inspire Christian hearts with sentiments of more real compassion, than all the discourses of rhetoric and all the artifices of eloquence could ever produce. If the Catholics of civilized countries, and provided with all the advantages that civilization offers for the soul and for the body, could, during one single week, experience what is endured in the midst of the ravages and violence of this poor Indian country, their hearts would open to the senti ments of a truly active corapassion, and they would extend a charitable hand to relieve the misery and mitigate the bit terness of their wretched and afflicting condition. TROUBLES OF THE INDIANS, I259 There are in human life certain marks of degradation which, at first sight, awaken the tender sentiments of a Christian heart ; there are interior trials and sorrows which need to be related to excite charity toward those who suffer them. Such are, my dear Father, the troubles and suffer ings of the Indians. Deprived of civilized society, destitute of all the advantages of social life, ignorant of the very ele ments of individual duty, they are a prey to exterior de ceptions, to interior illusions, and their days are counted by overwhelming evils and misfortunes as numerous as the hours which mark their duration. But when it pleases a wise Providence to permit that they be visited by other and extraordinary trials, as it happened to the Potawatomies, who lost their harvest, their ills are increased a hundred fold, and nothing but the consolations of the gospel are capable of ameliorating the hard lot of barbarism and the anguish of ignorance. May heaven deign to inspire a large number of worthy ministers of the Church with a zeal in conformity with the will of God, and inspire also a great number of Christians with that charity which covers a multitude of sins, in order that they may come to their aid amid the painful sufferings which they are at this moment undergoing. My respects to all. Reverend Father Provincial, Your most humble servant, CHRISTIAN HOEKEN, S, J, Fourth Letter. — To Reverend Father Elet. Bellevue, December 23, 1850, Reverend and Very Dear Father Provincial: I left Fort Verrailion on the third Sunday of Advent; I descended the Great Sioux as far as its confluence. There I26o PROMISES AND FULFILLMENT, I met with Major Halton, who is agent for the Upper Mis souri. He employed all his eloquence to persuade me to accom pany him as far as Fort Pierre, which is the post of the Little Missouri, He will probably stop there, at about the middle of January, God alone knows what the weather will prove at that time. He presented us a beautiful buf falo-robe, and told me, that if we would establish a mission in these sections, he would contribute annually $ioo. An other gentleman added, I have three children to educate; I will furnish $300 per year, and be assured, con tinued he, that every white man residing in this locality that has a family of mixed race (and there are a great num ber of them), will assist you to the best of their ability — one in one manner and another in another, according to their means. The Brules, and Yanktons, and the other Sioux tribes assembled in council said : " The missionaries shall not perish with hunger among us ; we will bring them an abundance of buffalo-robes and buffalo-meat, so that they can purchase clothes for the children who will be confided to them," For the love of God and of souls, I conjure you. Rev erend Father, not to defer any longer. All the good that Father De Smet and others have produced by their labors and visits will be lost and forgotten, if these Indians are disappointed in their expectations. They weigh men's characters in the balance of honesty; in their eyes whoso ever does not fulfill his promises is culpable; they do not regard or consider whether it be done for good reasons, or that there is an impossibility in the execution. Some of them have sent their children to Protestant schools, and they will continue to do so as long as we form no establishments araong them. From all this you may easily conclude that there is apos tasy and all its attendant evils. Immortal souls are precious in the sight of God, You are acquainted with my dis positions — arrange everything according to your own IMPORTANCE OF PROMPT ACTION, I261 good will and pleasure. My sole desire is to endure fatigue and suffering, as much as I can with God's assisting grace, and as long as I shall live, I have deposited my hopes in the bosom of my God; I expect ray recompense from his goodness, not in this life, but in the next. Yours, etc, CHRISTIAN HOEKEN, S. J, These four letters of Reverend Father Hoeken show suf ficiently, my dear and reverend Father, the spiritual wants of these nations and their desire of being assisted. Apos tasy is more frequent than is generally believed in Europe, Oh! if the zealous priests of the Continent knew what we know, had they seen what we have witnessed, their gen erous hearts would transport them beyond the seas, and they would hasten to consecrate their lives to a ministry fruitful in salutary results. Time passes; already the sec taries of various shades are preparing to penetrate more deeply into the desert, and will wrest from those degraded and unhappy tribes their last hope — that of knowing and practicing the sole and true faith. Shall they, in fine, ob tain the Black-robes, whom they have expected and called for during so raany years? Accept, Reverend Father, the assurance of my sincere friendship, P. J, De SMET, CHAPTER III, TRIBUTES TO THE FLATHEADS AND OTHER TRIBES,* Testimony of Lieutenant Mullan and Governor Stevens — Progress in agriculture and useful arts — Pious devotions — Stolen horses re turned — Advancement of the Cceur d'Alenes — The Indian outbreak. Brussels, Feast of St. Xavier, December 3, 1856, Reverend Mother: '^'HE festival of to-day renews in my mind the recoUec- ^¦^ tion of the pleasant time I spent at Erps, last Monday, I must again thank you for the kind reception I received at your convent and academy. The repeated invitations you have extended to me, since my return to Belgium, through Father Terwecoren, who took me there, made it a duty on my part to go. I owed you this visit also personally. Reverend Mother, on account of the ties which always have existed, and still exist, be tween your family and mine. This recommendation was made to me at Termonde. It was, indeed, pleasant for me to meet you, after thirty-five years' absence, and especially to find you consecrated to God by the vows of religion. During my long travels over the world, I have always found in religious communities the greatest amount of happiness to which man can aspire here below. But independent of this personal motive, the Academy of the Servants of Mary would leave, in my mind, a most pleasing recollection. I shall never forget this little family festival, the charitable and pious words addressed to me by one of your scholars, in the name of her companions; the 1 To the Mother Superior of the Convent and Academy of Erps- Qiierbs, between Brussels and Louvain. From Western Missions and Missionaries, p. 275. [1262] MULLAN's TRIBUTE TO THE FLATHEADS, I263 earnest attention paid by them to my accounts, and the prayers they promised me for my poor Indians ; that beau tiful hymn in honor of St, Francis Xavier, the patron of missionaries; the happiness of the little village children, gathered in the day-school, where their hearts learn to love God and serve him by labor ; the respectful deference of all the sisters, and of your worthy director. I thank you, then. Reverend Mother, for this welcome; and, in the name of the Indians, I thank you especially for the alms which the convent has confided to me for them, and the vestments which you prepare. The Indians pray for their benefactors ; they will pray especially for the Ser vants of Mary, and for their young pupils, as soon as I tell them all. As an anticipated testimony of their gratitude, and that the remembrance of this day may abide, your community ever prosper more and raore, your young ladies, when they come forth from that house of the Lord, preserve preciously the inappreciable gift of piety and the pure lustre of all virtue, I propose to give to the first little Indian girls that I baptize after ray return, the Christian names of the reli gious and pupils whom I saw assembled, that they may pray for their benefactresses. Please to prepare a list, and send it to Father Terwecoren, who is collecting all that is offered for the mission. I add to this letter a copy of the tributes of admiration paid to the Flatheads, as well as the Pater and Ave in Osage. It is a little souvenir for the Academy of Erps- Querbs. I. Tribute of admiration rendered to the Flatheads, by an officer of the United States army, sent with Governor Stevens to explore St. Mary's valley. These lines are drawn from a report recently issued by order of Govern ment. Explorations, etc., from the Mississippi to the PaciHc ocean, p. 308. Lieutenant Mullan says : " When I arrived at the camp with my guide, three or four men came out to meet us, and we were invited to enter 1264 TESTIMONY OF GOVERNOR STEVENS, the lodge of the great chief. With much eagerness they took care of our horses, unsaddled them, and led them to drink. As soon as the camp had been informed of the arrival of a white man among them, all the principal men of the tribe collected at the lodge of the chief. " All being assembled, at a signal given by the chief, they prayed aloud. I was struck with astonishment, for I had not the least expectation of such conduct on their part. The whole assembly knelt. In the most solemn manner, and with the greatest reverence, they adored the Lord. I asked myself : Am I among Indians ? Am I among people whom all the world call savages ? I could scarcely believe my eyes. The thought that these men were penetrated with religious sentiments, so profound and beautiful, over whelmed me with amazement, " I could never say enough of those noble and generous hearts among whom I found myself. They were pious and firm, men of confidence, full of probity, and penetrated at the same time with a lively and religious faith, to which they remain constant. They never partake of a repast with out imploring the blessing of heaven. In the moming, when rising, and at night, when retiring, they offer their prayers to Almighty God, The tribe of the Flatheads among the Indians is the subject of their highest esteem; and all that I witnessed myself justifies this advantageous opinion," Here is another testimony from the Hon. Isaac I, Stevens, Governor of Washington Territory, Giving orders to Lieu tenant Mullan, he says : " Tell those good Flatheads that the words of Father De Sraet in their behalf have been received by their Great Father, the President of the United States, and that all good people are devoted to thera. I would like to rebuild St. Mary's. Let thera know that I am attached to them, and ready to aid their old benefactors in their well-being. This would be most pleasing to me," SAME WITH THE OTHER TRIBES, 126$ He wrote to the Indian agent : " You are already aware of the character of the Flat- heads. They are the best Indians of the mountains and the plains — honest, brave, and docile, they only need encour agement to become good citizens — they are Christians, and we are assured that they live up to the Christian code." This passage is from the message to the President in 1854. You see, Reverend Mother, that my eulogium at Erps-Querbs, on the Flatheads, is also in the mouths of the Americans, It is the same with the other Indians. The sisters of the pupils may then rely on the prayers and grati tude of the little girls who bear their names. May these children of the desert have the sarae means of salvation as the children of Belgium. Accept, Reverend Mother, this trifling horaage of my gratitude, and express the sarae sentiments to your worthy Director, community, and pupils. Your servant in Christ, etc. To the Editor of the Precis Historiques, Brussels.^ Oregon Missions. University of St, Louis, July 16, 1857, Reverend Father: Since my return to St. Louis I have been very busy, and not very well, in consequence of the sudden transition from a cold climate to one where the therraoraeter stands at 90° Fahrenheit, I have not been able, thus far, to send you any interesting article, I have lately received a long and beautiful letter frora Father A, Hoeken, in the Rocky Mountains, It appeared, on the i ith instant, in the Free man's Journal, which you receive regularly, I shall try and send you a translation, 2 From Western Missions and Missionaries, p, 280, 80 1266 SOME ROCKY MOUNTAIN NEWS, I inclose to-day a short notice of Father Eysvogels, If you give it a place in your Precis, it will give pleasure to the friends and acquaintances of that good Father in North Brabant, As you propose terminating a volume. of my letters, you would do well, perhaps, to add, if there is time, a letter to the St. Louis Leader, dated June 19, 1855, which you can have translated, St, Louis, June 19, 1855, Mr. Editor: From a letter received from the Rocky Mountains about two months ago, I learn that the Indians, in our different missions in Oregon, continue to give great satisfaction to their missionaries, by their zeal and fervor in the holy prac tices of religion, " I hope," writes Father Joset, " that the holy sacrament of confirmation, which many have lately received, will add still more stability to their good resolu tions. The arrival of Monseigneur Blanchet, of Nisqually, had been announced only a few hours before, yet, notwith standing that one-half of the neophytes Were absent on their hunting grounds, the zealous prelate gave confirmation to over 600 persons. He expressed the greatest satisfaction at the flourishing condition of the missions, and the exemplary and Christian conduct of the Indian faithful," The conversions to our holy faith, if you consider the small number of our missionaries, are very consoling and encouraging. Father Joset says, that in the Mission of St. Paul's alone, among the Skoyelpis or Kettle Falls In dians, he had 163 converts in the course of the year. He further states in his letter, that Lieutenant Mullan, of the United States army, visited the Flatheads, and several others of our missions, by order of Governor Stevens, of the new Territory of Washington, and that the distinguished officer had expressed great delight at all he saw among the Indians, promising withal to favor them and to speak well of them in his report. Governor Stevens him- ST, IGNATIUS A BEAUTIFUL EXAMPLE. I267 self, in his report to the President of the United States, commends them highly, and calls upon the Government for aid and assistance, " They are," says he, speaking of the Flatheads, " the best Indians of the mountains and the plains — honest, brave and docile — they only need encour agement to become good citizens ; they are Christians, and we are assured that they live up to the Christian code," etc. Most respectfully. Dear Sir, Your humble and obedient servant, P. J, De smet, S, j. You see. Reverend Father, that I have cited the testimony of Governor Stevens, as to our Indian missions. The de tails which I shall give you in this letter emanate from the same source, as honorable as it is truthful. They form part of an official report on the State of Oregon, sent by that magistrate to the President of the United States, in 1855, and published by order of Government, Speaking of the tribe of Pend d'Oreilles, the Governor says: " I ara indebted to Doctor Suckley for raany interesting facts in relation to the raission of St. Ignatius, established among the lower Pend d'Oreilles ; it would be difficult to find a more beautiful example of successful missionary labors. The mission was established nine years ago, by Reverend P. J, De Smet, the whole country at that time being a vast wilderness, " For the first two years the missionaries lived in skin lodges, accompanying the natives on their periodical hunts and visits to their fishing grounds, " During this time they found it very hard to live. Their food consisted principally of camas-roots and dried berries, which at best contain very little nourishment. They raised sorae wheat, which they boiled in the beard, for fear of waste ; parching sorae of the grains to raake a substitute for 1268 achievements OF THE MISSIONARIES, coffee. After this, they slowly but steadily increased in welfare. Each year added a small piece to their tillable ground. They then obtained pigs, poultry, cattle, horses, agricultural impleraents, and tools. Their supplies of tools, seeds, groceries, clothing, etc, are shipped direct from Eu rope to the Columbia river. There are two lay brethren at tached to the raission. One of them. Brother Francis, is a perfect jack-of-all-trades. He is by turns a carpenter, black smith, gunsmith and tinman; in each handicraft he is a good workman. The other. Brother McGean, superintends the farming operations. They both worked hard in bring ing the mission to its present state of perfection, building successively a windmill, blacksmith's and carpenter's shops, barns, cowsheds, etc., besides an excellent chapel, in addi tion to a large dwelling-house, of hewn timber, for the missionaries. " The church is quite large, and is tastefully and even beautifully decorated. I was shown the handsomely carved and gilded altar, the statue of our ' Mother,' brazen crosses, and rich bronzed fonts — work which at sight appears so well executed as to lead one to suppose that they raust all have been imported. " Works of ornament are not their only deeds, A grind stone, hewn out of the native rock, and modeled by the same hand which made the chisel which wrought it, tin ware, a blacksmith's bellows, plow-shares, bricks for their chimneys, their own tobacco-pipes, turned with the lathe out of wood, and lined with tin, all have been raade by their industry. In household economy they are not excelled. They make their own soap, candles, vinegar, etc., and it is interesting and amusing to listen to the account of their plans, shifts and turns, in overcoming obstacles at their first attempts, their repeated failures and their final tri umphs. The present condition of the mission is as follows : "The buildings are: The house, a good, substantial, comfortable edifice; the chapel, a building sufficiently large IMPROVEMENT IN THE INDIANS. I269 to accommodate the whole Kalispel nation, A small build ing is attached to the dwelling-house; it contains a couple of sleeping-rooms, and a workshop, a blacksmith's shop, and a storeroom for the natives. These are all built of square or hewn timber. Besides these there are a number of smaller outbuildings, built of logs, for the accommoda tion of their horses and cattle during the winter, and an excellent roothouse. " The mission farm consists of about i6o acres of cleared land: wheat (spring), barley, onions, cabbages, parsnips, peas, beets, potatoes and carrots. Father Hoeken says, that if the children see carrots growing, they must eat some. Says he, ' I must shut my eyes to the theft, because they can not resist the temptation. Anything else than carrots, the little creatures respect.' " The Indians are very fond of peas and cabbages, but beets, and particularly onions, they dislike. The other pro ductions of the farm are cattle, hogs, poultry, butter and cheese. Around the mission buildings are the houses of the natives. These are built of logs and hewn timber, and are sixteen iA number. There are also quite a number of mat and skin lodges. Although the tribe is emphatically a wandering tribe, yet the mission and its vicinity are looked upon as headquarters. " When the missionaries came araong the Indians, they found them to be a poor, miserable, half-starved race, with an insufficiency of food, and nearly naked ; living upon fish, camas and other roots, and, as the last extremity, upon the pine-tree moss. They were in utter misery and want. The whole tirae was occupied in providing for their bellies, which were rarely full. They were of a peaceable disposi tion, brave, good-terapered and willing to work. " Of spiritual things they were utterly ignorant. Unlike the Indians east of the mountains, they had no idea of a future state or of a Great Spirit, neither had they any idea of a soul ; in fact, they had not words in their language to express such ideas. They considered themselves to be ani- 1270 MISSIONARIES LOOKED UP TO, mais, nearly allied to the beaver, but greater than the beaver, ' because,' they said, ' the beaver builds houses like us, and he is very cunning; true, but we can catch the beaver, and he cannot catch us, therefore we are greater than he.' " They thought that when they died, that was the last of them. While thus ignorant, it was nothing uncommon for them to bury the very old and the very young alive, because, they said, ' these cannot take care of themselves, and we cannot take care of thera, and they had better die,' " The missionaries had an arduous labor before them. They coraraenced by gaining the good will of the inhabit ants, by means of small presents, and by manifesting great interest in their welfare, in attendance upon the sick, and by giving the poor creatures food, seeds and instruction as to farming, " The Indians could not help seeing that no hopes of temporal or personal benefit induced the missionaries thus to labor among them, " The missionaries told them that they had a Creator, and that he was good. They told them of their Savior, and of the manner of addressing hira by prayer. To this they listened, and believed. " The people look up to the Father, and love him. They say that if the Father should go away, they would die, " Before the advent of the missionaries, the inhabitants, though totally destitute of religious ideas, still believed that evil and bad luck emanated frora a fabulous old woman or sorceress. They were great believers in charms or medi cine. Every raan had his particular medicine or charm, and from it they expected either good or ill. With some it would be the mouse, with others the deer, buffalo, elk, sal mon, bear, etc. ; and whichever it was, the savage would carry a portion of it constantly with hira. The tail of a mouse, or the fur, hoof, claw, feather, fin, or scale, of what ever it might be, became the amulet. When a young raan grew up, he was not yet considered a raan until he had dis covered his raedicine. His father would send him to the INDIANS ARE WILLING TO WORK, 1 27 1 top of a high mountain in the neighborhood of the present mission; here he was obliged to remain without food until he had dreamed of an animal; the first one so dreamed about becoming his medicine for life. Of course, anxiety, fatigue, cold and fasting would render his sleep troubled, and replete with dreams. In a short time he would have dreamed of what he wanted, and return to his home a man. " The missionaries say that these Indians are industrious, and not lazy, as compared to other Indians; that they are willing to work ; but the land is so poor, and so little of it is susceptible of cultivation, that they cannot farm enough, " The mission farra, as already stated, contains about i6o acres. This is kept up for the natives, as but a few acres would be amply sufficient for the missionaries. Each Indian who wishes it, is allowed a certain amount of land to culti vate for his own use, and is provided with tools and seeds. " Before reaching the Mission of St. Ignatius, Doctor Suckley found four lodges of the Pend d'Oreilles about half a mile above the outlet of Lake De Boey. These lodges were all built after the fashion of the Sioux lodge, with the single difference that they were covered with mats of reeds, in stead of skins. These mats are made of rushes laid parallel, and fastened together at their ends. For convenience in traveling, the mats are rolled into cylindrical bundles, and are thus easily carried in canoes. Doctor Suckley's provi sions being out, he concluded to lodge all night with All-ol- stargh, the head of the encampment. The other lodges were principally occupied by his children and grandchildren. ' Shortly after our entrance,' says Doctor Suckley, ' AU-oI- stargh rung a little bell; directly the lodge was filled with the inhabitants of the camp, men, women and children, who iramediately got on their knees, and repeated, or rather chanted, a long prayer, in their own language. The repeti tion of a few pious sentences, an invocation, and a hymn, closed the exercises. In these the squaws took as active a part as the raen. The promptness, fervency and earnest ness, all showed, was pleasing to contemplate. The partici- 1272 AN INSTANCE OF HONESTY AND COURAGE, pation of the squaws in the exercises, and the apparent foot ing of equality between them and the men, so much unlike their condition in other savage tribes, appear remarkable,' " The following trait, mentioned by Mr, Doty in his report, attests their good faith and decision of character : " On the 1st of November, six Pend d'Oreille Indians came to this post, and delivered up all the horses that were stolen. It appears that they were taken by two young Pend d'Oreilles, and run to the Pend d'Oreille camp, then hunting beyond the Muscleshell, under the command of a chief of that nation, Alexander. The horses were recognized, by the stamps, as belonging to the whites, and the young men con fessed having stolen thera at this post, A council was held, and it was determined that it was a great sin to steal horses from the white men who were friendly to them; that the wishes of the ' Great Soldier Chief,' who had been at St, Mary's, were known to them, and they had promised com pliance with them ; that stealing these horses would give the Pend d'Oreilles the name of liars and triflers ; that they had always borne a good name, and were ashamed to have mean things said of them now ; therefore the horses must be taken back by the great chief and five principal men of the tribe. Accordingly, they came boldly to the fort and delivered up the horses, without asking any reward, but, on the contrary, expressing much sorrow and shame that they had been taken. " Thus the six Indians proved themselves not only honest, but brave in the highest degree, coming, as they did, five days and nights into an enemy's country, simply to do an act of justice to strangers. They remained here two days, and on departing were accompanied by Mr. Clark and myself fifteen or twenty railes on their journey." In regard to the Flatheads, the Governor says : " Lieutenant Mullan, in his journal of September 20th, relates the following incident, illustrative of their noble character : ' We had to-night a great luxury, in a string of THREE NOBLE RED MEN. I273 mountain trout, brought into carap by one of our Flathead friends. Our Indians displayed, on this occasion, a trait worthy of notice. They were without meat or anything to eat. We were without meat, but had a little flour left from our small stock of provisions. These being the first fish caught by any of the party, they insisted on our taking them. This we refused, but they insisted, until we were corapelled to accept them.' He continues : ' I cannot say too much of the three noble raen who were with us. They were firm, upright, reliable raen, and, in addition thereto, entertained a religious belief, which they never violated. They did not partake of a meal without asking the blessing of God ; they never rose in the morning or retired at night without offering a prayer. They all knew the country well, and were excellent guides and hunters. When they could not find fresh meat, they accepted the remnants from our scanty table with the greatest contentedness,' " The Flatheads recognize Victor as their chief, an Indian of the same name being the chief of the lower Pend d'Oreilles. These two tribes usually accompany each other in their great hunting expeditions east of the Rocky Moun tains. The heroism of the Flatheads in battle, and their good faith toward others, have been the theme of praise, both from priest and layman." Speaking of the Coeur d'Alenes, the Governor says : " The Coeur d'Alene Indians are under-estimated by all the authorities. They have some seventy lodges, and num ber about 500 inhabitants. They are much indebted to the good Fathers for making considerable progress in agricul ture. They have abandoned polygamy, have been taught the rudiments of Christianity, and are greatly improved in morals and in the comforts of life. It is indeed extraordi nary what the Fathers have done at the Coeur d'Alene mis sion. It is on the Coeur d'Alene river, about thirty miles from the base of the mountains, and some ten miles above the Coeur d'Alene lake. 1274 AGRICULTURAL PROGRESS OF INDIANS, '¦ They have a splendid church, nearly finished by the labors of the Fathers, brothers and Indians; a large barn; a horse-mill for flour; a small range of buildings for the accommodation of the priests and brothers ; a storeroom ; a milk or dairy-room; a cookroom, and good arrangements for their pigs and cattle. They are putting up a new range of quarters, and the Indians have some twelve comfortable log cabins. The church was designed by the superior skill of the mission. Father Ravalli, a man of skill as an architect, and undoubtedly, judging from his well-thumbed books, of various accomplishments. Father Gazzoli showed me his several designs for the altar, all of them characterized by good taste and harmony of proportion. The church, as a specimen of architecture, would do credit to any one, and has been faithfully sketched by our artist, Mr, Stanley, The massive timbers supporting the altar were from larch trees five feet in diameter, and were raised to their place by the Indians, with the aid simply of a pulley and a rope, " They have a large, cultivated field, of some 200 acres, and a prairie of frora 2,000 to 3,000 acres. They own 100 pigs, eight yokes of oxen, twenty cows, and a liberal pro portion of horses, mules and young animals, " The Indians have learned to plow, sow, till the soil generally, milk cows (with both hands), and do all the duties incident to a farm. They are, some of them, expert woodcutters; and I saw at work, getting in the harvest, some thirty or forty Indians, They are thinking of cutting out a good trail to St. Mary's valley, over the Coeur d'Alene Mountains (on the route passed over by me). They need agricultural impleraents and seeds. " The country generally, on both sides of the Coeur d'Alene river and lake, is rolling and beautiful. It is inter spersed with many small prairies, all affording excellent grazing, and most of them adapted to crops. The rolling country could be easily cleared, and would yield excellent wheat and vegetables. I have no question that all the coun- GOVERNOR STEVENS PROMISE I275 try, from the falls of the Cceur d'Alene to some distance above the mission, and thence to near Clark's Fork, a region of 3,000 or 4,000 square miles, is adapted to grazing and culture. A small portion will be overflowed by the melting of the mountain snows, and another portion will be occupied by the mountain spurs or isolated peaks, capable simply of furnishing timber and fuel, " The Fathers state that a better site for the mission is furnished by a river flowing frora the southeast into the western end of the Coeur d'Alene lake, and called by them St, Joseph's river. It is said to be larger than the Coeur d'Alene river, to have many prairies along its banks, and the country generally to abound in wood, grass and water, " On the return of the Indians from the field above spoken of, I talked to thera in these words : " ' I ara glad to see you, and to find that you are under such good direction, I have corae four tiraes as far as you go to hunt the buffalo, and have come with directions from the Great Father to see you, to talk with you, and to do all I can for your welfare, I see cultivated fields, a church, houses, cattle and the fruits of the soil — the works of your own hands. The Great Father will be delighted to hear this, and will certainly assist you. Go on ; and every family will have a house and a patch of ground, and every one will be well clothed. I have talked with the Blackfeet, who proraise to raake peace with all the Indian tribes. Listen to the Good Father and to the good brothers who labor for your good." These details are drawn from the Message of the Presi dent of the United States to Congress, 1854-5, p. 416. Accept, dear Father, my respectful homage, and believe me. Your devoted servant and brother in Christ, P. J. De SMET, S, J, 1276 THE PEACE COUNCIL OF 1855. Indians of the Rocky Mountains. To Editor of the Precis Historiques, Brussels.^ St, Francis Xavier, Feb, 4, 1856, Reverend Father: I have just received a letter from Father Adrian Hoeken, dated October i8th, at the united camp of the Flatheads and Pend d'Oreilles, in the region of the great plains, east of the Rocky Mountains, The Indians had gone there to attend a peace council, held by order of the United States Government, Father Hoeken attended, at the express re quest of Governor Stevens of Washington Territory, who shows every regard to the Fathers, and whose reports to the President evince the lively interest which he feels in the improvement of the material condition of the Indians under our care. The Blackfeet, Crows, Flatheads, Pend d'Oreilles, Koo tenais, and a great number of chiefs of other tribes attended the council. It is to be hoped that the stipulations of the new treaty will be ratified by Government. On the one hand, the Indians proraise to reraain at peace with each other; on -the other, the whites and the Govemment to aid them by subsidies in educating their children, and by farming implements to encourage them to leave their nomad life and settle in a convenient spot on their own lands. It is to be hoped that the council will succeed in realizing this lauda ble plan. Father Hoeken tells me that the Indians of our missions west of the Rocky Mountains (the Flatheads, Pend d'Oreilles, Coeur d'Alenes, Kootenais, Kettle Falls Indians), continue, by their regular and religious conduct, to give the missionaries great consolation. He speaks also of the good dispositions of the Crows, Blackfeet and others east of the mountains. These Indians earnestly solicit missionaries. Colonel Cummings, Superintendent of Indian Affairs, who s From Western Missions and Missionaries, p. 292. DURING THE OREGON WAR. 1 277 presided at the great Indian council, assured rae, on his recent return to St. Louis, that all the tribes of the upper Missouri are devoted to us. He would gladly use his in fluence with Governraent for the success of our missions among them. Before setting out for the council, he ex pressed the wish that I should accompany him to the great Indian assembly. In a letter from Father Congiato, dated at Santa Clara, November 29th, that superior of the missions of California and Oregon, speaks of his visit to the missions in the moun tains. It lasted three months. The following is an extract : " The Fathers do much good in that remote region. Like his venerable brother, who died on the Missouri in 185 1, Father Hoeken does the work of several men. He has suc ceeded in uniting three nations and a part of the Flatheads to live together under his spiritual direction. "All was going on wonderfully well when I was in Ore gon ; now all is on fire. The Indians who live on the banks of the Columbia, from Walla Walla to the Dalles, have joined the Indians of northern California to make war on the Americans or whites, and commit great depredations. One of the Oblates (Father Pandory) has been massacred.* The last tidings which I received from the Mission of St, Paul at Colville, inform me that your Indians express their horror for the excesses comraitted by the Indians, and show no disposition to join them in the war. Pray for your fel low missionaries in Oregon." Several papers in this country ascribe the origin of this war to the cruelties perpetrated by sorae whites on a peace ful and tranquil band of Indians. I do not think that our Indians will take the least part in the difficulties which have arisen between the Americans and the Indians of the Colum bia. They will doubtless follow the advice of their mission aries, who will divert them from such a great danger and so sad a misfortune. Moreover, they are at some distance frora * This was a false report. — Editor, Western Missions and Mission aries. 1278 TRIBES IMPLORING AID. the actual seat of war, and have had but trifling intercourse, if any, with the hostile tribes. Do not forget me in your prayers, and obtain prayers for the wretched, I have just received a second letter from Father Hoeken from the Flathead village of St, Ignatius, He has several nations there. The conversions araong the Indians have been very consoling and nuraerous in the course of last year. In the name of all the Indians east and west of the moun^ tains, he implores rae to revisit them. The Blackfeet, Crows, Assiniboins, Sioux and others incessantly implore our aid. These nations are still very numerous. They nuraber over 70,000 souls. Religious should, before all else, be children of obedience. It is the affair of our superiors. We shall never cease to aid them by our prayers, and commend them in a special manner to the remembrance of the pious. CHAPTER IV. PLANS FOR A SIOUX MISSION, An excursion among the Yanktons — Quarters assigned — Talks all day and wrestles with the enemy all night — Baptism of head chief — His experience with a miraculous medal — A good Indian — Repulses sectarians — Letter from chiefs — The Indian Bureau consulted in re gard to formation of a mission — Letters to public men — Nomination of Indian agents — Statistics of mountain tribes. St. Louis University, March 22, 1866, Major-General Sully, Headquarters District Upper Missouri, Clinton, lozva: Dear General. — I received your kind favor of the 28th ultimo. You will excuse me for not answering it sooner. I had to postpone it till the arrival of the Superior of the Board of the University, who has been on a long absence. He has now just returned and your propositions, concerning Indian missions, have been taken up for consideration. Allow rae to return my sincere thanks for the kind and favorable feelings you express in your letter toward the Catholic missions in general. Your suggestion of establish ing a mission at Fort Berthold among the three united bands of Mandans, Aricaras and Grosventres, and among the Sioux near Fort Randall, was highly approved and will be looked to. Owing to our numerous establishments and the great want of personal means, the design could not im mediately be acted upon. It will, I hope, be done before long and as soon as practicable and when the proper persons can be prepared for carrying out the views proposed and with the permission of the proper civil and military au thorities, [1279] I28o HOSPITALITY OF THE YANKTONS I intend leaving St. Louis on the 7th of April, on the Fannie Ogden. I hope I shall have the honor of meeting you on my way up the river. Should I meet the head men of the Santee tribe and the chiefs at Fort Berthold I shall do my best to encourage them. With sentiments of the highest consideration of respect and esteem, I have the honor to be, dear General, etc. Tribe of the Yanktons, in the vicinity of Fort Randall, July, 1866,^ Very Reverend Father Provincial: In this letter I shall give you a faithful statement of my mission among the Yanktons, I do not doubt in the least that your Reverence and the consulting Fathers will take under consideration the position of these good savages and their admirable disposition toward the faith. Permit me to go into minute details concerning all my relations with thera. If the consolations are soraetiraes great in the holy rainistry araong the savages, I have also, at the station from which I write, shared in a good portion of human misery. The more fruitful were the days, the more miserable and exhausting have the nights been. The following recital will give you a faithful account of it. Upon ray arrival araong the Yanktons, Indians and half- breeds welcomed me among them with the utmost good will. Every one expressed in particular his desire that I should come and share his lodge or cabin, as the case raight be. As the farailies are usually quite numerous and their quarters rather cramped, and in order that I might have raore free use of ray time araong them, I expressed ray in tention of occupying sorae little private abode, in whatsoever condition, where I might discharge in quiet my spiritual 1 From the French of the Linton Album, p. 94. AND ENTHUSIASM OF THE RATS, I281 duties ; say my early morning mass and recite my breviary. They had the very thing for me — a poor cellar (fifteen feet square) built of hewn timbers and covered with earth and long abandoned. It was serving as a junk shed for all the community and -wlas full of rags, pieces of rusted iron, chips, planks, etc. This was all cleared away and the place swept out. My little effects were quickly transported thither, and in less than an hour I took possession, without the least doubt that I would spend several agreeable days there in the instruction of the Indians, and several tranquil nights in reposing after the fatigues and the great heats of the day. I had a long conference with the chiefs and their subjects concerning the motives of my visit ; I answered all their questions, and it was prolonged well into the night. At last I said prayer with my new community, we smoked one last calumet together, and then every one, thanking me joyfully for my presence, withdrew to give himself up to repose under his own roof. Worn out by the heat of the day and the fatigues of the journey, I expected to enjoy a good sleep, I had reckoned without my hosts. I had been perhaps ten minutes in bed and was almost asleep, when I was awakened with a start. The dugout was swarming with famished rats; they came and laughed in my very face. Night is their particular domain and they make the best use they can of it in their own behalf. They carried on at a shocking rate. They were rummaging all ray bags of provisions, and were about to begin in earnest the transportation of such of their con tents as suited their purposes into their caves, when I stopped them short. To prevent the depredations of the rats, I hung my sacks to the posts of my mansard out of reach of any attempts on the part of these highwaymen. During this labor I felt myself assailed by another enemy, the flea. If he is not so formidable as the rat, he is more importunate and he attaches himself to his prey in a most tenacious man ner. Often one is deceived into the consoling belief that he has put his finger upon him, but "he is not there," To 81 1282 FRUITS OF THE YANKTON MISSION. be brief, I was awake and up all night, making play with my hands, fingers and nails to defend myself against the fleas and their comrades in evil-doing, the mosquitos, the bed bugs, the ants, the spiders, et omne genus muscarum. As you will perceive, dear Father, all is not gold that glitters. The more beautiful and consoling had been the day, among those good Indians, who lent such earnest attention to my words, the more sorry and troubled was the night. Take what precautions I would for the night, during my fort night among the Yanktons, and with all my fruitful and consoling relations with them on each day — I spent all my hours instructing them and baptizing their little ones and those about to die — still each night I must go on the war path afresh against the common enemy, the veritable scourge of this region. But of course, putting miseries and consolations in the balance, the latter outweigh as much as light surpasses darkness. The results of my mission among the Yanktons have been very happy. I have baptized all the little children that were in the carap, about 100 in number, together with some fifteen adults, araong whom I count the head chief of the tribe with his spouse. I think a little notice of the life and character of this head chief may please you. I will tran scribe it from the notes in my journal. On the 6th of this month (July) I baptized solemnly the head chief of the Yankton tribe, named Pananniapapi, or Man that Strikes the Ree. His tribe nurabers in the neigh borhood of 450 lodges, say 3,000 souls. He is a remark able man, the descendant of a long line of chiefs recognized for their bravery in war against their enemies, but still more for their wisdom in the councils of the Dakota nation, which numbers 35,000 to 40,000 souls. I met Pananniapapi first in 1844. He recalled all the circumstances to me, I had at that time, he says, long talks with him regarding our holy religion, I exhorted him to pray the Master of Life to make him worthy to enter some day into the bosom of Jesus Christ, and become a worthy child of his Church. He CHOLERA MIRACULOUSLY HEALED. I283 has remained faithful ever since to the words I spoke to him upon religion, and has kept them carefully in his mind and heart. He has preserved with care and respect the large miraculous medal and has always worn it, full of confidence in the protection of the Mother of God, and he and all his tribe have participated in her mighty favors. He recounted to rae with primitive simplicity the bene fits obtained from heaven by the intercession of Mary. Once, in 1853, he and all his camp were buffalo hunting in the vast plains of the West. It was the cholera year, and the frightful scourge of God broke out among the Indians, where its ravages were terrible. Thousands of them fell victims to it. Pananniapapi's camp was attacked in its turn and in one day thirty died. There was universal mourning and nothing but groans and weeping was to be heard anywhere. In the consternation of the moment, the head chief exhorted his people to have trust in God and apply to Mary. He placed the miraculous medal upon a new white parfleche, neatly painted. Surrounded by his people, he implored the succor of the Holy Virgin, the good Mother of the children of God. Pananniapapi embraced the wonder-working medal devoutly, and amid their pious invocations to Mary, which penetrated heaven, all the Yanktons, 3,000 in number, full of trust, kissed the medal after the example of their head chief. At the same instant every symptom of the malady disappeared and the cholera left them. It gives me pleasure to add to this little tale the universal testimony which I have received to the character of the great and good chief Pananniapapi. He leads an ex emplary life among his people. His charity is boundless. His position as chief brings him certain remunerative fa vors from the Govemment which would put his family in easy circumstances. He accepts them, and makes use of them solely to relieve the distress of the poor members of his tribe. He shares with resignation, nay, I may say with joy, the general needs. He wears no mark of distinction. 1284 A MODEL FOR INDIAN CHIEFS, He has adopted the costume of the whites; his garments are humble, but clean. His bearing is at once modest and imposing. In his speech he is grave and imposing, and he is quick to take a point. His example is a model and les son to all. Although sixty-five years of age and almost blind, he is always the first at work, whether in the field, the forest or the garden. The men, women and children of his tribe need no other encouragement. With axe, pick and shovel on their shoulders, they follow him everywhere eagerly, either to the forest or to the field. Such an ex ample is rare, especially in a head chief among the Indians, so little accustomed to labor. They have over 800 acres^ under cultivation. The vast field was admirably tended, and promised a good ample crop. The longer I stayed among the Yanktons, the more I was struck with the manners and bearing of Pananniapapi, His modest exterior, his words full of wisdom and prudence, brought to ray mind an ancient Patriarch or Nestor of the wilderness. During his younger years, he distinguished himself in war by deeds of valor. He bears the honorable marks upon him, but without ostentation, A three-inch arrowhead remained in the small of his back for sixteen years. But he has distinguished himself still more by his wise and moderate counsels upon the most important affairs of his nation. At the death of him who was head chief before him, he was chosen unanimously to fill his place, and he has ever discharged the duties of it with honor and for the best interests of his people. My arrival in the thirty-mile square Yankton reserva tion was a real day of rejoicing for Pananniapapi, He re ceived me with all demonstrations of the sincerest joy, and eagerly renewed his invitation of twenty-two years before, that we should come and establish ourselves on his land and open a raission there for the instruction of children and of the raembers of his tribe. He has often had to resist the artifices of Government agents and employees, who have NO USE FOR MINISTERS, I285 sought, unasked, to impose missionaries of their own par ticular sect upon his tribe, by force and against his remon strances, Pananniapapi has always resisted all their at tempts. When they asked hira his reason for refusing his consent to their benevolent and charitable intentions toward his tribe, he replied modestly, " I am thankful for the occa sion you give me to tell you all my thought with reference to this important matter. My opposition to your plans is a sincere and conscientious duty to the Great Spirit, which I desire to discharge. I raade up my mind on this subject twenty-two years ago. I wish to put the instruction of the youth of my tribe into the hands of the Black-robes ; I con sider them alone the depositaries of the ancient and true faith of Jesus Christ, and we are free to hear and follow them," The ministers answered hira : " The religion of the Black-robes may be good, but ours is the best ; why not rather accept ours? " The chief replied, " I have told you that my resolution goes back a great many years. In the old Church the Mother of Jesus Christ is honored. When the cholera attacked us in the desert, all ray carap was put under the protection of Mary. She deigned to come to our rescue; I always wear her medal." And he told them the story of the miraculous occurrence in the plain. He con tinued : " Besides, like ourselves you have your wives and children; they possess your hearts and are your principal preoccupation. You wish to come and settle among us. That is to gather wealth and enrich your wives and children at our expense. The Black-robe has neither wife nor chil dren. His heart is undivided. All his care is for God and the happiness of the people that surround his cabin and the house of prayer. Since my first talk with the Black-robe I have had no other thought but to embrace the ancient religion of Jesus Christ, if I can make myself worthy. My mind is made up." His answer has always been the same to all renewals of the question. Pananniapapi has re mained imperturbable as to his choice of a religion for twenty-two years. To-day he enjoys the distinguished 1286 IMPORTANCE OF A YANKTON MISSION, happiness of having been regenerated in the holy waters of baptisra with his wife Mazaitzashanawe under the patron age of St, Peter and St. Anne. As soon as I came he renewed his petition with ardor, to obtain a Catholic mission among the Yanktons, In my long experience with Indians, I have never seen so durable and admirable a persistency. He spent all the tirae he could spare with me. We had long talks together upon religion, and he was most attentive. May all the tribe of the Yanktons, after the example of their great chief, become worthy to enter hereafter into the sweet fold of the Divine Shepherd! May the long-desired Catholic mission be established among these children of the desert, under the illustrious patronage of the Holy Virgin, to be led to the knowledge of the word of her Divine Son, the only door of salvation ! Come, Reverend Father, to the aid of the Indians by your holy sacrifices and prayers, for the fulfillment of their de sire — a mission among thera. The land which the Yank tons occupy is the doorway to the vast territories of the Dakotas or Sioux, who are 35,000 to 40,000 in number. In my various meetings with the Sioux tribes, they have al ways treated me with much respect and kindness and given close attention to my words, I have the honor to be, with the deepest respect and the most sincere esteem Very Reverend Father Provincial, Revse Vae Servus in Christo, Copy of Letter of Yankton Chiefs. Greenwood, D. T., July 26, 1866, Reverend Dear Father De Smet: I send you a few lines from the chiefs of the Yanktons, They say when they were at Washington their Great PETITION OF YANKTON CHIEFS, 1 287 Father promised them a school and teachers, and now it is seven years and they have seen nothing as yet. Doctor Bur leigh had a school for his children. There is another re ligious [teacher] that wants to come and remain with us. He wants to teach us the Santee language, but we do not want them. We want no other but you and your religion. The other wants to learn us how to read and sing in the In dian language and which we all know how to do in our own way. What we want is to learn the American language and their ways. We know enough of the Indian ways. I am now very old and before I die I want to see a school and the children learn how to read and write in the American language, and if you will try and get with us, I will be very happy. Our agent has not arrived as yet, but when he comes I will have a long talk with him and will send you an answer to what he says, I will say not much until the agent arrives and then I will tell him what I have to say and what I want and then I will send you a few lines. After you had gone, all my Indians have had plenty of buffalo. We have made a sur round from this place. I think the Great Spirit will take pity on us and grant all our requests. Hoping that we raay hear and see you soon, we remain, ever yours, THE MAN THAT STRIKES THE REE, X LITTLE SWAN, X FEATHER IN THE EAR, X MEDICINE COW, X JUMPING THUNDER, X ''(I write this for the Chiefs, who have requested me so to do,) J. B, CHARDON, for Indians, 2 Note in parenthesis by Chardon. 1288 MORE ABOUT A YANKTON MISSION, St, Louis University, Nov, 24, 1866, Honorable Sir: I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of the " Re port of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs for the year 1865," which you had the great kindness to forward to me, and for which I return you my most sincere thanks, I avail myself of the present occasion to lay respectfully before you a little incident of my late missionary visit araong the Indian tribes of the upper Missouri, At the special request of Pananniapapi, or " The Man who Strikes the Ree," the head chief of the Yankton tribe and several of his braves who reside at the Yankton Agency below Fort Randall, I reraained some time amongst them. During my whole stay, I found them all very attentive and respectful. Since my first interview with Pananniapapi, in 1843, he had nourished a longing desire, as he expressed it, " to see the old Black-robes (the priests) reside among his people, to instruct the Indian youth and to teach them the saving truths of Christianity," On my recent visit last sumraer he manifested anew this his old desire with an urgent request to come and locate on the land reserved for his tribe. The chiefs, having made up their minds, in regard to the reli gious profession of the teachers of their children, had been opposed hitherto to the establishing of schools by teachers of other denominations contrary to their own choice, I could not give at that time a positive promise to Panan niapapi, the affair having first to be proposed to our o-wn Board of Missions in St. Louis, and the practicability of its execution having first to be discussed. The Yankton In dians are under treaty with the Government, and a school fund, if I have been well informed, has been established in favor of their tribe consisting, I am told, of about 450 lodges, or 2,500 souls. I would feel grateful for information on the following points: First. Should our Board of Missions agree to grant a Catholic missionary establishment, as expressly de- UNPRECEDENTED HOT WEATHER, I289 sired by the chiefs of the Yankton tribe, will it meet with the approbation of the Indian Bureau in Washington? Second. In case it meets with the consent of the proper authorities, I would beg to be informed as to the conditions and stipulations of the Yankton Treaty in regard to the formation and allowances for aforesaid schools. With sentiments of the highest consideration of respect and esteem, I have the honor to be, etc. Honorable L. V. Bogy, Com'r of Indian Aifairs, Washington, D. C. St. Louis University, July 30, 1868. Dear General: According to promise you have a right to a letter frora me. I shall ever remember your extraordinary kindness to me whilst in the upper country. Since I left Fort Sully I suffered greatly from the unprecedented atmospheric heat. I had made up my mind, after my arduous trip to the hostile bands on the Yellowstone river, to take a few days' rest at St. Mary's Mission, among the Potawatomies, in Kansas, The thermometer at that place and in the shade, ranged from 104 to 109°. Of course, I availed rayself of the coolness after the first good shower, to proceed hastily to St. Louis, which I reached a few days ago. I find the heat here more moderate, still it continues to be excessive and I am under great sufferings and in real danger. Deaths from the heat are very comraon and are of daily occurrence. At Omaha I had the pleasure of entertaining the Right Reverend Bishop O'Gorman last mission in the upper Mis souri, principally among the various Indian tribes. I have exposed to him the great need and want of a Catholic chap- Iain to visit the various military forts along the river and attend to the spiritual welfare of the nuraerous Catholic 1290 LETTER TO GENERAL STANLEY, soldiers they contain. He felt moved at the representation made, but owing to the great scarcity of priests in his ira- raense district, I doubt much whether he will be able to grant any assistance in this respect. At this moment the Archbishop is absent from St, Louis, At his return I shall expose the case to him in earnest terms and at your par ticular request. With some certainty, or at the least, good hope, I can announce to you that a mission of our Society will be established on the new contemplated Indian reserva tions, in all probability among the Yanktonnais (the Two Bears band) who number over 700 lodges, Frora this es tablishment, in case of no regular chaplain being appointed, a Father will be able to visit yearly all the military posts on the Missouri, Should any suggestion occur to your mind on this subject, please inforra rae. I shall do my best and take great pleasure to bring it about. When last at Fort Sully, I informed you of my intended trip to Europe, Under urgent circumstances two Fathers have left a month ago to perform. the duties intended for me. Should you have any coraraands or orders for the Old World, I shall with pleasure communicate them to my friends, who will promptly and readily fulfill the requests. Any other com mands from here in books, etc., I shall, with pleasure, attend to. I intend shortly to write to good Captain Duffy and family. I procured two little libraries of very interesting books for his dear young children and shall send them by the safest and best occasion. I have carefully kept the ad dress of his son. Master James, and shall soon vi^rite to hira. A beautiful prayer-book and other books are bundled up and ready to be forwarded to Rhode Island. Please present ray best respects to Mrs. Stanley and re member me to your dear little daughters. Most respectfully, etc.. General D. S. Stanley, Fort Sully, D. T. GENERAL HARNEY AND THE SIOUX. I29I St, Louis University, Sept, 9, 1868, Dear General: I heard to-day of the arrival of General Sherman and paid him a visit at his office. I represented to him the case of removing the Upper Missouri tribes in the vicinity of Forts Sully and Rice, to the neighborhood of Fort Randall, add ing its objections and difficulties. The general showed me the map intended for the Indian reservation. It is about as large as the whole State of Missouri and extends from Fort Randall, above Fort Sully. The upper Indians, he added, " may select any spot, even opposite Fort Sully, if they choose," I learned that General Harney has the entire control of the reservation and that $200,000 have been placed at his disposal, to help the Indians through the com ing winter. Of course, you will see General Harney. Your great experience, advice and direction will be of great service to him and result in the welfare and happiness of the Indians. Try your best to induce my brother, Two Bears, to make a good selection, not far away from Sully. Should a Catholic mission be established, and I have good hopes it shall, I would like it to be in his neighborhood, according to the promise I made him. From a letter I received lately from Colonel Otis Two Bears appears to me in great dis tress, as few animals are found in the prairies. Should you see him, try to console him. In my answer to the colonel I inserted a long paragraph to him. Present my best respects to Mrs, Stanley, to Captain Duffy and family. I received a very fine letter of his son, Jaraes, frora Rhode Island, Should you find out a good locality for a mission, confer on the subject with General Harney and give me informa tion and advice in due tirae. I hope we shall not raeet with any opposition in Washington, if the sentiraents of the Indians are well known and duly represented by yourself and Harney. On the subject of raissions, as far as my ex- 1292 LETTER TO GENERAL PARKER (?), perience goes, the Indians have always pronounced in favor of the Black-gowns, or Catholic missions. I truly hope and pray that their expectations may be soon realized and that the light of faith may redound upon them. Most respectfully, etc, D, S, Stanley, Brevet Major-General, Fort Sully, D. T. P, S, — I hope my letter of the 4th instant has reached you. St. Louis University, July 16, 1869, Honorable Sir: In writing the other day to Mr, John B. Motley, solicitor of patents, etc, I requested him in case of meeting you to present you my kindest respects and regards and my most sincere congratulations for the high and important office to which our worthy President has called you, I entertain the fullest convictions that the appointment will redound to the general welfare of our red brethren throughout the Union, and particularly among the numerous tribes of the Far West, I shall always remember with true satisfaction and pleasure the honor I have had of visiting the Sioux tribes in your company and that of General Sully, in the sumraer of 1867, Accept my sincere thanks for the many favors and great kindness you bestowed on me on that occasion. The answer I received from my friend Motley, in regard to his kind compliance with my request, encourages me to address this letter to you to let you know my future inten tions in regard to a visit to the Sioux tribes in the Upper Missouri country. In my visits last year among the friendly and among the hostile bands on the Yellowstone river I was everywhere received with marked tokens of kindness, respect and confidence. Two Bears and other principal PLAN FOR THE UPPER RIVER TRIBES. I293 chieftains in their speeches at the council at Fort Rice, ex pressed the desire of ray forming a missionary station in their midst. In particular they entreated me to that effect. I raade no formal promise to them and have answered sim ply, " that I would do ray best to bring it about." I learn frora various sources that Two Bears, chief of the Yank tonnais, and several others have been anxiously expecting me. I arrived in St, Louis on the 7th ult,, leaving the cool climate of Belgium and stepping so suddenly into the fullest heat of our Missouri summer, that I have been rather suffering ever since. However, I have not abandoned the intention of visiting the Sioux tribes in the neighbor hood of Forts Sully and Rice as soon as I shall be able and feel strong enough for the trip. The situation of affairs in the upper country having some what changed in regard to missionary establishments, per mit me to lay before you my plan, if admissible. Your views on the subject will be gratefully received. My visit to the upper country would be to select a place where a mis sionary station may be coraraenced early next spring and where raanual-labor schools may in time be erected. In ray visits last year I found all the half-breeds, who are mostly Catholics, very sanguine on the subject and several of the most prominent chiefs in the council at Fort Rice made the same request to the comraissioners. Honorable Sir, I have another iraportant matter to lay before your consideration — a letter from the Reverend Father Dielo, which I just received from St. Mary's Mis sion, Kansas. I feel particular interest in said mission be cause it was the Potowatomies, now of St. Mary's, among whom I first coraraenced my missionary career. This rais sion has been in a flourishing condition for about thirty years. At various times the establishment has been visited by most distinguished and eminent men of the United States. Senators Doolittle, Foster and Ross, General Ewing and a host of others, have at various tiraes honored it with their presence and pronounced the establishraent "A 1294 CONSULTS ROBERT CAMPBELL, model mission " and the schools " a perfect success," The Friends or Quakers now threaten to replace Doctor Palmer, for many years the efficient and qualified agent of the Potawatomies, who has given satisfaction to the greatest nuraber of Indians in his agency. The schools of the rais sion continue (The rest of the letter not copied in Press Book.) St. Louis University, Jan, 6, 1870, Honorable R, Campbell, St. Louis, Mo.: Honorable Sir. — Having the honor of your acquaint ance for these several years past in my capacity of mis sionary among the Indian tribes; knowing the deep in terest you take in the welfare of the Indians, and in your present capacity as raeraber of the Board of Coramis- sioners instituted by the Government for the interest and civilization of the Indians, allow me the liberty of laying be fore you my intention of establishing a mission araong the upper Sioux tribes, should it meet with the approbation of the Board of Commissioners, A few words of explanation may be here necessary, I visited various bands of Sioux in the summer of 1868, Several considerable portions of Indian tribes about Fort Sully and Fort Rice were friendly and entertained peace able dispositions toward the Government and the whites. The presence of the hostile Sioux bands being highly de sirable and necessary, to meet the commissioners at Fort Rice, in order that a treaty of peace might be concluded, I offered my services which were accepted. Accompanied by Mr. C. E. Galpin, in the capacity of interpreter and a band of friendly Indians as scouts, we proceeded across the plains in a western direction. After about fifteen days' travel we found the hostile bands to the number of several thousand, encamped on the banks of the Yellowstone river ten miles above the mouth of Powder river. They had EXPLAINS WISHES OF INDIANS, I295 been apprised of my approach by some of the scouts and I was met by hundreds of warriors clad in their finest apparel and war ornaments. They welcomed rae into their coun try and amidst the greatest rejoicings conducted me to their comraon camp, consisting of about i,ooo lodges and com posed of Ogallalas, Brules, Blackfeet-Sioux, etc. The day after my arrival I held a council with the Indians, attended by thousands — a space of over an acre was surrounded by Indian lodges and served as the council hall which was filled to its utmost. I raade known to thera the benign intentions of the Government, in their regard. I was listened to with apparent great attention and received the answers from the various orators appointed for the occasion. On my return to Fort Rice I was accompanied by a nuraber of deputies frora the hostile bands. They attended the great council of the Government comraissioners and signed the treaty of peace. Several of the chiefs present at the council, in their speeches to the coraraissioners expressed a desire to be at tended by Black-robes or Catholic priests for their instruc tion and that of their children. For years past, during ray missionary visits to them, and more particularly in the sum mer of 1868 at Fort Rice, have I been earnestly requested by the chiefs to make a missionary establishment in their midst — I made them a formal promise to that effect, if in my power, to interest myself in their behalf. I enter tained the hope of seeing them the following summer in 1869, but being called to Europe on business and on ac count of subsequent sickness on my return to the United States, I have been compelled to postpone my visit until next spring. In conformity with the wishes of numerous Indians and half-breed families, I feel desirous to establish a mission for their welfare in some well-suited locality, I must here humbly observe that our means for such an undertak ing are very limited and inadequate. Should we be able to bring the design about and should our services be ac- 1296 GOOD DONE BY MISSIONS. ceptable, ray principal object in addressing you. Honorable Sir, is to humbly beg you to present our case to the honorable board of commissioners of which you are a distinguished member. Should means be accorded for the undertak ing of our contemplated mission, it shall be gratefully re ceived and conscientiously applied in accordance with the views of the Government and in favor of the Indians, Allow me to make the observation, that our Catholic mis sions among the Potawatomies and Osages, during their whole existence for over twenty years, have always been in a flourishing condition and have merited the approbation and praise of the various superintendents and agents of the Government, The usefulness and good done by our mis sions in the Rocky Mountains (Montana and Idaho) are highly spoken of in late letters I received from General Sully, Should reference be necessary, allow me to name General Sherman, Commissioner Parker, Generals Stanley, Harney, Terry and Sully, With sentiments of profound respect and esteem, I have the honor to be. Honorable Sir, etc. St. Louis University, Sept, 15, 1870, Honorable Sir: 1 received your very kind favor of the 9th instant. Please accept my most sincere gratitude. Your letter has been for two days on my table, but [has been delayed] owing to bodily indisposition and very urgent matters to attend to, and hoping the return of my Superior to confer with him on the subject in question. He is still absent, but I can no longer defer my answer. A simple statement of our intention to erect a mission among the Upper Missouri Sioux tribes early next spring may here be necessary, I passed the months of June and July in visiting the various military posts and Indian reser- LOCATIONS FOR SIOUX MISSION, I297 vations from below Fort Thompson to Grand river, I was kindly and well received by the various Sioux tribes and bands, I had to listen to their usual little complaints and apprehensions, but upon the whole they appeared to me pretty well pleased and peaceable. Generally they seemed anxious to have me establish missions among them. On the occasion, I answered all their queries and gave them the best advice in my power with the promise of doing what I could to return soon among them to establish a mission for their welfare and the education of their children. At my return to St, Louis, in the beginning of last month I gave an expose, to my Superior and his consultors of my visit and mission among the various Sioux tribes. They readily approved and resolved on the establishment of a mission among the aforesaid tribes, without deciding about the locality. During the consultation a letter was read from General Stanley, in which he advised, stating his motives, establishing the mission in Peoria Bottom, where General Harney raised buildings fifteen miles below Fort Sully and where the little band of Yellow Hawk habitually resides. (North side of the Missouri river,) I will here state that, personally, I am in favor of estab lishing the mission on the Grand River reservation, from the fact that it will bring the missionaries in closer contact with a greater number of Indians and give them more facil ity to visit the hitherto hostile bands in the interior, I was assured while at Grand River that the bottom lands four miles above and six miles below the agency are susceptible of cultivation, with plenty of timber and good grazing around. My proposition will, no doubt, meet with the ap probation of the Superior and his board of whom I ara a member. My health has been rather feeble for some time past, ow ing to the excessive summer heat in the upper country, T trust the coming cool weather will again brace me up and prepare me for the new Sioux mission which for years has been dear to my heart, 82 1298 DE SMET ASKED TO NAME AN AGENT, I feel truly grateful, and find no words to express my gratitude and heartfelt thanks for your extraordinary kind ness and confidence in allowing me to propose " some suit able person, who will be acceptable to myself and the So ciety I belong to, for appointment by the President as United States agent at Grand River," The motive you express is highly appreciable, paternal and just. Certainly a good understanding between the agent and the mission ary will always produce the happiest results among the peo ple for whose welfare they devote themselves. ********** With sentiments of the highest consideration, etc. Honorable E. S. Parker, Commissioner of Indian Affairs, Washington, D. C. St, Louis University, Sept, 27, 1870, Honorable Sir: On the 1 2th instant I received a very kind letter from the Honorable Commissioner of Indian Affairs, in which he desired me, " to name some suitable person, who will be ac ceptable (to myself and to the Society I am a member of) for appointment by the President as United States Indian Agent at Grand River, on the Missouri ;" stating as a reason and motive : " it seeming very desirable that any agent sent by the Government to the care of those Indians should be in full harmony and sympathy with the local missionary or teacher." Previously to the reception of the Commissioner's letter, it was decided upon by the Board of Fathers regulating the affairs of the missions of the Society, to establish a mission among the upper Sioux tribes in Dakota, early next spring. The reservation at Grand River, containing the greatest number of Sioux bands, it is likely this point will be selected for our future establishment. CONSULTS GENERAL PARKER AGAIN, I299 I felt highly honored and most grateful for the confidence and kindness expressed in the honorable Commissioner's letter, to wit : in allowing me to make the proposal of the agent of Grand River reservation. On the raost estimable and highly-prized authority and recomraendation I proposed to the honorable Coraraissioner, as agent for Grand river. Doctor Wm. F. Cody. His profession, his talents, qualifica tions and services, no doubt entitle him highly to the posi tion and I hope he may be willing to accept. In the absence of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs, per mit me to renew my first application and request and to place the matter directly under your consideration, with the hope that it may prove acceptable. With sentiments of the highest consideration, etc. Honorable Secretary Cox, Washington, D. C. St, Louis University, March 27, 1871, Honorable E, S, Parker, Commissioner Indian Affairs, Washington, D. C: Honorable Sir. — This letter I intend both as personal and official. Ever since we traveled in company in 1867, to promote the welfare of the Indians, you have inspired me with the highest regard and respect, I need advice and direction as to the course and endeavors in starting our future mission on Grand River agency. From reports I have received, I understand that the locality, may be changed. The land at Grand river is rather poor for farming purposes, with hardly any timber around, I have little means at my disposal. What assistance raay be expected frora the Government ? or how may it be obtained ? We have nothing else in view than to promote the spiritual and temporal welfare of the Indians, 1300 SKETCHES OF MOUNTAIN MISSIONS, My health, for some tirae past, has been rather on the de cline, I hope, however, I shall be able to undertake the trip, toward the loth or 12th of next month, and introduce two reverend companions among the various bands at Grand River, When I was in Washington, January last, I was not suffi ciently posted as to the actual situation or statistics, of some of the Catholic missions in Idaho, Montana and Washing ton Territories. I then promised to forward to you, what information I should be able to obtain. The Superior of Indian Missions, the Reverend Joseph Giorda, Society of Jesus, has sent me a sketch, with some remarks, as to the nuraber of converts araong the various tribes, under his charge, which I consider as implicitly reliable and beg to be allowed to present it to your kind attention and considera tion, I hope, that as soon as practicable, the benevolent in-> tention of the President will be established in favor of these missions, to wit : " That the agent and the missionary or teacher, raay work in unison, for the welfare of the people under their charge and care," In Montana Territory, I commenced the missionary work thirty years ago. All the missions and missionary visits to the various tribes of that extensive territory, have been at tended exclusively by Catholic clergymen. In the Flathead agency, we have two regular mission es tablishments. One of these is among the Flatheads, in Bit ter Root Valley. The total number of these Indians is about 450 — all CathoHcs, The agent, Mr, Jones, is well liked, and merits the confidence, both of the Indians and mis sionaries. The Indians possess some very good farms and are fencing in considerably. It is hoped the treaties be tween Governor Stevens and the Flatheads in 1855, and in 1869 with General Sully, may be strictly carried out. Hith erto, these treaties have been rather disregarded, or have remained unfulfilled. Father D'Aste, one of the mission aries, writes to me : "As to the removal of the Flatheads from Bitter Root valley, I think it may be obtained without FLATHEADS, RLACKFEET AND CCEUR d' ALINES. I3OI great difficulty, by granting the Indians an iraraediate com pensation. They have been often disappointed, and place no reliance whatever on promises of agents. Their removal to Jocko reservation, among the Upper Pend d'Oreilles or Kalispels, would best suit the Flatheads, having a common language, but precautions should be taken to prevent the whites from settling on the reservation." The second mission of the Flathead agency is on the Jocko reservation (Montana Territory), for the Upper Pend d'Oreilles and numbers about 1,500 Indians, all Catholics, including some Kootenai Indians. The Sisters of Charity have opened a manual-labor school for girls, on the reservation. The average number of teachers is twenty. The Government used to pay $1,200 a year for the maintenance of the teachers and their pupils — for several years past this allowance has been withdrawn by previous agents. In the Blackfoot agency (Montana Territory), the Catholic missionaries are the only ones who have paid mis sionary visits to the Indians. I commenced the work thirty- two years ago, which has been continued ever since. Over 2,000 Catholics are scattered among the various Blackfoot tribes. The Catholic agent, McCullow, was removed when about commencing a school and church. He was succeeded in the agency by Jesse Armitage, strongly opposed to the Catholic religion, who preached to the Indians. As I learn from good authority his repute in Montana has been far from enviable. In Idaho, I commenced the Coeur d'Alene mission over thirty years ago ; it numbers over 400 Catholics and all are very exemplary. They are industrious and cultivate the soil, but lack instruraents of agriculture. If the mission aries had the means at their disposal they would soon have flourishing schools, for the Indians express a great desire to have their children educated. Seltis, their chief, wrote an interesting letter on the subject a few months ago to the Sisters of Providence in Walla Walla, 1302 VARIOUS TRIBES AND SUB-TRIBES, The Nez Perces nuraber a good many Catholics, but on account of the fact that the mission was first commenced by missionaries of the Presbyterian denomination, the agency was assigned to them. At Colville the Kettle Falls Indians number 606 Catho lics, The missionaries of said section attend the Spokan Indians, who number over 300 Catholics, The former agent at Colville, Mr. Harvey, though not a Catholic, aided the missionaries in their efforts to promote the welfare of the Indians and was highly popular and beloved by them. They beg that he may be reappointed. His successor among the Spokans gives no satisfaction, neither to the missionaries nor to the Indians, The chief, in his effort to prevent the spread of licentiousness among his people, was threatened with jail. The Lower Kalispels number 403 Catholics; the Okina- gans number 107 Catholics; the Snaiclist [?] number 229, The above are principally attended from Colville Mission, The Kootenais and some of their allied tribes, along the northwestern line of the British dominions are visited by Catholic missionaries and number several hundred converts. They are generally very tractable people and are very at tentive to religious instruction. In the Yakima reservation (Washington Territory) we have another mission attended by over 500 converts. Some fourteen small tribes are visited from that mission and come generally under the appellation of Yakimas am.ong the whites : They are : the Tyapenish, Wishgam, Stockamzin, Klikitash (Goilgoilpam), Uniapam, Uinnachapam, Sipam, Chamnapam, Nagchespam, Silapam, Winash, Pshuan- napam, Kookchentla and Enteaktla. They are about 4,000 in number. In connection with the Yakima mission Father Giorda writes to me : " It is truly painful to state, that the present agent. Reverend Mr, Wilbur, will not allow the Catholic missionary to stay with his flock on the reservation. In consequence the priest is located outside the reservation, YAKIMAS, Sioux AND OTHERS, I303 and even Wilbur, though unsuccessfully, tried to order him from the place," The missionary. Father Caruana, is per sonally known to me and is highly estimable for zeal and talent in the noble cause to which he has devoted himself for years past. It must be here noted that about twenty-nine years ago the Yakima mission was first undertaken by Catholic mis sionaries and remained under their control until the Indian war broke out in Oregon, during which the mission was burned by the militia, an act highly disapproved by the public at that tirae. Is not this a parallel case with the Nez Perce mission, which was restored to the Presbyterian mis sionaries because it was first coraraenced under their di rection ? Might not the sarae favor be asked frora the Gov ernment in regard to the Yakima Catholic mission? The number of Catholic converts among the Yakimas exceeds by far those of Wilbur, Though Dakota Territory, along the Missouri river, has been divided into several sections or agencies, bestowed on the Episcopalian missionaries, this, I suppose, will not pre vent me or my companions from visiting my Catholic In dian brethren and friends to give them the consolation of their religion. Among the Yanktons raany are Catholics, including their principal chief Pananniapapi, At Wetstone, Cheyenne and all the stations along the river most of the half-breeds are Catholics and under instruction, and num bers of Indians of the Sioux bands along the Missouri, in my yearly visits to them, have always been very attentive to religious instruction and have often asked for Catholic teachers.* The Aricaras, Mandans and Grosventres have recently made application to be attended by us. From my acquaint ance with them for many years past I feel inclined to attend to their request as soon as I shall be able, and in the hope it may meet with your approbation. 31 have baptized several thousand of their children. — Author's Note. 1304 THIRTY YEARS LABOR AT STAKE, Pardon me. Honorable Sir, in addressing this long letter to you for your kind attention, consideration and advice. For these thirty years past we have labored among the benighted tribes of the Far West with the only view of promoting the knowledge of God amongst them and to add to their temporal welfare. We have divided with them the little means placed at our disposal, and often have we joy fully shared their poverty and privations. We hope and trust that, in accordance with the benevo lent views and intentions of our worthy President, in the above-mentioned missions of Montana, Idaho and Wash ington Territories, "Agents and teachers might work in unison, in promoting to the best of their power, the welfare and happiness of the peoples confided to their care." With sentiments of profound respect and esteem, I have the honor to be Note by Father De Smet on letter-press copy, — I have given a copy of this letter to the commissioners of the In dian tribes. It has received no response from them nor from the Indian authorities in Washington, CHAPTER V. MISCELLANEOUS MISSIONARY NOTES. Some remarks on Protestant apostles — A plea to the Council of Bishops — Promises made to the Indians — Appeals from the tribes — The soliciting of alms — Transportation of mission supplies — Black feet repel a Presbyterian — Colonel Vaughan on Catholic missionaries — One Jesuit mission secured — Protestant tricks — The Potawatomies in Kansas — Routes to the mountains — A report to the Commissicner of Indian Affairs — Agents and missionaries — Victor, the Flathead chief — His invitation to the Pope — Failing health and remembrance of early days and old friends. "I PI OUR Paternity will observe that the Indian Territory, c^ compared with others, is well filled with this sort of apostles; the reason is very siraple.^ These nations having exchanged their lands with the United States and the Gov ernment has made treaties with them containing stipula tions providing for the education of their children. It is to enjoy the favors of these treaties, which give $500 to $600 per year to each minister, that such great crowds of these people are hastening thither. They have other great tem poral advantages besides, for the Protestant propaganda of New York, Boston, etc., furnish them means to erect houses, schools and everything necessary. These gentlemen keep school for a small number of children, and speak now and then of the gospel to those who may sometimes come, from curiosity or by chance, to listen to thera. Aside frora this, they work hard — but for what ? To fill their coffers and storehouses. They raise cattle in large numbers, get a fine crop and sell their produce at a high price. After spending 1 From letter of 1839 to the Father-General, referring to a table from the American Almanac of 1838, showing seventy-four Protestant min isters among reservation tribes, and none among the others. [1305] 1306 NATIONAL COUNCIL OF BISHOPS, a few years in such a way as to amass a good competency, these gentlemen retire, disgusted apparently with their lack of success in the conversion of the Indians, and go else where for the rest of their days to repose in peace and abundance. Most Reverend Archbishop.^ As the Right Reverend Prelates of the United States are about to assemble in the first National Council in Baltimore, it appears to me a fitting occasion to address to your Grace a few lines on a subject which, in my humble opinion, is of the highest importance, since on it depends the salvation of thousands of our poor, bereft and benighted brethren of the wilderness. The spiritual destitution of these poor children of nature attracted the attention of the Right Reverend Bishops in one of the early councils; and their paternal solicitude thought fit to place several of the Indian missions under our care. To carry out an undertaking so highly recomraended, the Fathers, at four different periods, raade collections in several dioceses. These raeans, together with the yearly allowance made by the Association for the Propa gation of the Faith at Lyons (continued up to last year but now suspended), as well as what we derived from our own private funds in Europe, enabled us to establish the fol lowing missions : First, araongst the Flatheads and Moun tain Indians are two Fathers and four Brothers engaged; second, among the Poinced Hearts or Coeur d'Alenes are two Fathers and two Brothers; third, among the Kalispels or Ear-rings [Pend d'Oreilles] and Kettle Falls Indians on the Columbia are two Fathers and two Brothers; fourth, among the Carriers, Okinagans and Sioushwaps in New Caledonia are two Fathers and one Brother; fifth, in the Willamette valley at St. Francis Xavier's mission-house 2 Addressed to Archbishop Eccleston of Baltimore. Dated St. Louis, April 26, 1849. INDIANS READY FOR THE RELIGION. I3O7 and other stations two Fathers and three Brothers. Besides the missions of the Far West three missions are in operation in the Indian Territory east of the Rocky Mountains, to wit: Among the Osages, the Potawatomies and the Miamis — the two first have each an academy directed by nuns. Ladies of the Sacred Heart and Sisters of Loretto, seven Fathers and six Brothers are engaged in these three establishments. These three establishments receive moneys from the education fund for the Indians — $50 for every child (clothing and boarding included) being granted by Government to these various schools. The Governraent pays likewise for the erection of schools to a certain amount. If these Fathers had more means at their disposal they might increase their operations among the Indians to a greater advantage, A Father left St. Louis eight days ago to estab lish a mission among the Winnebagoes in the diocese of Monseigneur Loras — another Father and two Brothers are shortly to follow him. This mission will likewise draw frora the education fund. In addition to these already established missionaries will leave next May for the numerous tribes of the Upper Mis souri. Here, as in Oregon, the missionaries raust be left to their own private and scanty resources — the Sioux, the Poncas, the Mandans, the Aricaras, the Assiniboins, the Crows, the Blackfeet, the Snake Indians, etc., have asked repeatedly for Black-gowns. I have resided about ten years araong the Indians. I have visited the tribes I here mention, I deem it a duty incumbent upon me to state, that I have the full conviction that our holy religion would be readily embraced by thousands of these, our benighted brethren, if timely assistance in missionaries and in tem poral means were afforded them, Europe in its actual con dition cannot help the missions, or at raost very slightly. The holy work having been thus prosperously advanced hitherto and the deraand for missionaries yet so frequently made by these poor Indians, I have taken the boldness, Most Reverend Archbishop, to address these few lines on this 1308 PROMISES TO INDIANS NOT FULFILLED, important subject to your Grace, particularly at this favor able raoraent, when the spiritual fathers of the Church of the United States are about to assemble for the well-being of their spiritual children, spread far and wide over the land. The Indians at all times have been dear to their paternal hearts. Permit me. Most Reverend Archbishop, to observe, that in order to maintain the actual number of missionaries and missions and to establish new ones, wher ever they may be most needed, it would be advisable to devise some plan of obtaining the necessary funds, either by establishing an association for the propagation of the faith among the Indians, or such, should it be thought ex pedient, as the wisdom of the Right Reverend Bishops may think most proper to adopt, I ara with profound respect and esteem, etc. St, Louis, April 26, 1849, St, Louis University, Feb, 2, 1850. Very Reverend Father-General: The approach of the months of April and May always re minds me of the promises that I have made to the Blackfeet and Crows, and some two years ago, as well, to the Poncas and the numerous tribes of the Sioux, This year again (1849) at various times, these poor unhappy tribes have gotten word to me of the pain they feel at having their hopes frustrated and their ardent desire of at least an early accomplishment. On the other hand, your Paternity is but too well aware how poor in subjects is the vice-province of Missouri, and how impossible it is for it to furnish the missions, when it has barely sufficient for itself. It is there fore men that we need. You know better than I, Very Reverend Father, what their qualities should be; but as I ALWAYS READY FOR THE ROAD, I3O9 am somewhat acquainted with the ground, I will take the liberty of pointing out a few, A fair judgment and a firm will to suffer much, though without gaining much ground, since, in the new lands which it is proposed to evangelize, the obstacles are greater and raore nuraerous than araong the nations on the west of the Rocky Mountains. It is not a conquest but a painful labor — raany sufferings, few con solations. If you had at your disposal any subjects whom such a prospect might terrify, we might still keep them for our colleges and send out sorae of our men who are able to endure such fatigues. Your Paternity, in writing me on the 29th of August last, had the kindness to inquire regarding the state of my health. I am well, thanks be to God. I suffer but little from my rheumatism of late, and I feel fit to undertake and endure afresh all the privations connected with such ex peditions. A sign from your Paternity will make me take incontinent the road to the plains of the West, where so raany thousands of souls are groaning under the erapire of Satan, The hope of baptizing so many thousands of poor little children, and of preparing for death so many poor old people, whose dispositions are generally adrairable, inspire me with the necessary courage to return to a post which I have always regretted. The establishment of missions seems so rauch the more urgent to-day, when the Mormons (a sect of fanatics) and the French socialists under the lead of Cabet are proposing to go and form new States in the midst of the great desert. The Mormons are there already, 50,000 to 60,000 in num ber, Cabet is negotiating at this moment to go and oc cupy a large territory east of the Rocky Mountains, The poor simple savages will be their dupes, unless we forestall them and implant as much as possible the truths of our holy religion in their hearts. I3IO CROWS ANXIOUS FOR BAPTISM, St, Louis University, Sept, 19, 1852, Right Reverend Doctor Miege, S, J,, St. Mary's Pota- watomi Mission: Right Reverend and Dear Father, — I hope you will have received my letter of the 17th ultimo, and we are expecting your answer, on which depends the sending of good Father Van Hulst, He is detained in St. Joseph's College, where he is to give a retreat to the clergy of Kentucky, It has been promised to give another to the seminarians in Caron- delet. Mo., so that he might be ready to leave here toward the end of October, together with a good brother. Let us know your wish in due time. Your long-lost trunk, as you may have been told already, has been recovered. It was received a few days ago in St. Louis and placed in charge of Mr. Duncan MacDorvell of Weston, who will forward it to St. Mary's in one of his wagons. The cape you bor rowed at St. Xavier's College, Cincinnati, has been re turned ; they missed it greatly. You will find in the trunk an instrument for Brother DeVriend, a gift from Cincin nati; some papers belonging to Father Duerinck; several late numbers of the Civiltd Cattolica, and Dr, Bragg's mus tang liniment with the prescriptions, said to be very good and recommendable. As the Father of the Indian tribes west of the Rocky Mountains, I must acquaint you with the letters I have re ceived from the upper country, all speaking most favorably of the dispositions of your far-distant children and of their anxiety to be instructed. Mr. Meldrum, the Crow inter preter, and considered as a chief in the nation, having re sided over thirty years in their midst and having become fully identified with them, writes as follows : " The Crows speak of you frequently and are anxious to be baptized and to become Christians. I consider them candid and we fre quently converse on the subject." Zephyr [Rencontre], the great Sioux interpreter, in the name of the different bands of Sioux Indians, numbering FUNDS CAN BE OBTAINED. I3II thousands, begs most earnestly, and urges the arrival of raissionaries among that powerful nation : " Remeraber," says he, " the holy waters of baptisra have flowed on the foreheads of hundreds of our children." Several other let ters from the gentlemen of the American Fur Company speak to the same effect and in equally strong terms in favor of missions araong the Sioux. The great chief of the Assiniboin nation sent me a lengthy and beautiful speech, in which he chiefly aims to urge our arrival amongst thera, promising withal, " that should means be wanting, if he has it in his power, a portion of the annuities due the Assiniboins shall be set apart for that purpose." " I ara convinced," he adds, " that buffalo are getting scarcer, and if ray people do not learn soraething and get the knowledge of the word of the Great Spirit, they will vanish with their game and disappear from the face of the earth. I am getting old, and would like to see your good works commence before I die. I shall then die con tented. My people wish you to come and invite you with all speed. I know you wish the ignorant Indian well, and hope you will act up to our expectations, and think about us and how we are situated." Right Reverend and Dear Father in Christ, in giving you these extracts, I am performing a duty. I have endeavored by word of mouth to explain to you the forlorn and unhappy situation of these poor people and how ardently thousands among them are desirous to receive instruction. You know my own personal feelings on the subject; " non recuso laborem," if, perchance, I am not judged unfit to labor in so holy an undertaking. I believe ample means could be obtained. The Association of Lyons would, no doubt, yearly contribute toward it. The Government, as General Mitchell assured me, would make a grant out of the yearly annuities, and the American Fur Company and all the whites in the Indian country can and are willing to contribute. It is in deed high tirae to think seriously about this affair, for ere long Protestants will take it in hand and crush the good I3I2 THE 185I JOURNEY REVIEWED, dispositions of the Indians and trample under their foot the scattered seeds sown in that benighted region. We are all well, I recommend myself, etc. Dear Sir,^ — After many joumeys in the deserts of North America I am at last in my native land, happy to be able to express to the benefactors of the poor Indian all the grati tude of the missionaries. Since my last departure from Belgium I have traveled prairies where no mission had ever been established — in deed, where- no European probably had ever been. We ascended the Missouri for about 730 leagues, and crossed a plateau of over 100 on the upland that separates the waters of the Yellowstone from those of the Missouri, From the Yellowstone we proceeded southwest marching about 300 leagues to the Black Hills and Wolf Mountains, spurs of the Rocky Mountains, We left these hills at the great road leading from the Rocky Mountains to California, On the 2d of September, 185 1, we were on this highway trodden by the whites hastening these latter years to the gold mines. The road is fine, broad, and perhaps the long est in the world. On the track of the emigrant caravans you can travel easily from the frontier settlements to the Pacific. This immense avenue is like a barn-floor swiept by the winds. No blade of grass springs up, so unceasingly is it trodden by the feet of thousands of Americans and Euro peans hastening to California, Our Indians, who had seen only pathless wastes, crossed at most by a hunter's trail, thought, on beholding it, that the whole nation of the whites had passed over it, and that the land of the sunrise must be depopulated. They could hardly believe me when I told ' Letter I, Second Series, Western Missions and Missionaries. To the Chevalier DieudonnS Stas, Editor of the Journal de Bruxelles, Brussels, June 30, 1853. LITERARY UNDERTAKINGS, I3I3 them that the multitudes who had gone were scarcely missed. Providence has supported my feeble courage, guided my steps, fructified the seed of the gospel in lands which had not yet received them. After traveling many hundred leagues I saw what good could be done among these wan dering tribes, always at war, without consolation in misery, because they scarcely know of the hopes of eternity. With the grace of God I hope to return next spring with Bishop Miege, the vicar-apostolic We will be able tOi found mis sions for those nomad tribes on a soil fertile enough to sup port thera, and thus removing occasion of war, let civiliza tion, with the light of the faith, dawn on these wastes. The limits of a journal do not permit me to enter into details on this expedition to the Great Desert, on which I have yet published but one letter; but I intend to publish more in the Precis Historiques, published by Reverend E. Terwecoren, at the College of the Society of Jesus, Brussels. Besides a notice on the Mormons, a new sect, dating from 1826, but threatening to play in America the part of the Moslem in Asia, I am preparing notes to develop to Euro peans the alraost unknown state of religion in that vast por tion of the world, and to leave authentic documents on the rising church of the wilderness. I will vary these historical details with notes, written in the desert, on geology, zoology, botany, the manners, religion, and language of the Indians. This will show what civilized Europeans are too apt to forget, that Catholicity, by the very force of her missions, contributes to the civilization of nations and the develop ment of science. The Government of the United States knows it and encourages our labors. The good to be accom plished is in every- respect iraraense. The Catholics and recent converts need priests to preserve the faith, the pagans to learn the good tidings of the gospel. The sraall number of ministers of the Lord there does not suffice for the 4,000,000 Catholics, and for all the Indians who desire 83 I3I4 HEART STILL WITH THE INDIANS, ardently the visit of a Black-robe, to instruct and baptize them, I have come to Europe to appeal to generous hearts, I will express one more desire, and express it frankly. I come, too, to solicit alras. I ara not unaware that Belgium is constantly visited by raissionaries frora Araerica, the Indies, and the East. I am conscious that the benevolent can scarcely satisfy these repeated solicitations. But Europeans cannot conceive the immense want of succors experienced in these countries, to prevent defections, convert the heathen, form missionaries, establish schools, build churches, etc. Consent, Sir, to contribute by your estimable paper, which has elicited so many generous works, to make known this two-fold object of ray coraing to Europe, where I shall prob ably remain till the close of September, Your obedient servant, etc. St. Louis University, Jan. 12, 1855, W, A, Smets, Esq,, Utica, N. Y.: Dear Friend, — * - * * * I have been, thank God, in the enjoyment of good health ever since I had the pleasure of seeing you in New York. My heart, I must acknowledge, remains still with the In dians, I frequently receive moving messages from them in which they urge my return. I am happy that even here I can be of some service to thera, at least temporally, by pro viding our missionaries with all the necessary articles they may stand in need of to carry on the good work among the various tribes they are evangelizing. Our number being proportionably small in St. Louis I have not been able hitherto to be replaced in the station I now hold. However, like the coraraodore of old, " I do not give up the ship," and I fervently pray, if it be God's will, to be allowed to pass the remainder of my days in the Far West, with the poor, abandoned and much-abused children of nature. Thousands LETTER TO SUPERINTENDENT CUMMINGS, 13 1 5 still roam over the plains and in their native forests without expectations for the future and without spiritual consolation and comfort. Please present my best respects to all, etc. St, Louis University, April 9, 1856. Colonel Alfred Cummings, Superintendent of Indian Af fairs, St. Louis, Mo.: Honorable Sir. — I have taken the liberty of addressing to you, as Commissioner of Indian Affairs in St, Louis, a fev.' lines regarding the Indians, in whose welfare I have seen you invariably manifest so much devotedness and fatherly care. Indeed, I feel the more assured in taking this liberty from having experienced on several occasions the kind as sistance which you have always shown yourself ready to give to our missionaries, who labor in the midst of this poor benighted people in order to promote their happiness. The missions in the Rocky Mountains need no word of praise at my hands. The Honorable Governor Stevens and the gentlemen of his party, in their report to the Govern ment, speak of these missions in the most flattering terms. They say that these tribes are by far the best and most peace able Indians of the great desert ; and in their reports prom ise to promote the interests of these tribes with their (jreat Father in Washington, You have yourself, no doubt, wit nessed the happy influence which our missionaries exercise over the minds of these rude, uncivilized Indians, For years they have shown a great predilection in our favor and have constantly expressed a wish and desire to see us in their midst. Major Culbertson knows well their feelings in this regard. In the course of the year I feel confident we may be enabled to gratify [them] in a matter so dear to their hearts. 13 16 TRANSPORTATION OF MISSION SUPPLIES, Some time ago I received a catalogue of goods ordered by the Reverend Adrien Hoeken, one of the missionaries who attend to the united bands of the Flatheads, Kalispels, Flatbows and Kootenais, settled at present in the vicinity of the great Flathead lake. The settlement is not far distant from Fort Benton and there is a good wagon road to it. The goods ordered will probably cost about $i,ooo. Of this amount, however, I regret that it is not in my power to furnish more than $300, For want of means, therefore, I find myself necessitated to select only those articles which are most needed for the raission, I would feel very grate ful indeed should you secure the permission of sending these goods to Fort Benton along with those designed to be sent by the Government to the upper Indian tribes. Had the idea occurred to me, while in Washington City, I would have applied for this permission to the Honorable Mr, McClelland, Secretary of the Interior, and to the Honorable Mr, Manypenny, Coraraissioner of Indian Affairs, We are under the greatest obligations to these gentlemen for their constant attention and kindness in whatever regards the missions under our care. With the greatest respect and esteem, I remain, etc. *In February of last year the Government made us very advantageous offers for the erection of one or several estab lishments among the Blackfeet or other tribes. Not receiv ing any positive response from the superiors, some Calvin ists or Presbyterians later accepted the Government's propo sition, and a minister, attracted by the money, even started off for the distant mission with his wife and children. These last were the proof for the Indians that the minister did not belong to the genuine Black-robes, and so they would ¦* Extract from letter in French to Father-General, June, 1857. TESTIMONY OF BLACKFOOT AGENT, I317 not receive him nor have anything to do with him, and that gentleman and his suite lost no time in getting back to the States. Below is the translation [into French] of the letter writ ten me lately by Colonel Vaughan, the Government agent. It is dated May 20th. The colonel is a Protestant, " Reverend and Dear Sir. — Before ray departure for the Blackfoot territory, where I have been appointed agent by the Government, I take the liberty of writing you upon a subject of vital importance to the welfare of the Indians intrusted to me, and to the progress of civilization. You are aware that I have filled the office of agent of the United States Governraent araong the Indians for fifteen years. During all this time I have noticed with the greatest interest that the efforts raade by good Christians to establish rais sions and schools, to instruct the Indians in spiritual and temporal matters, have contributed the most to civilizing and pacifying thera. Furtherraore, I take pleasure in testi fying that the Catholic Church, to which you belong, has everywhere obtained the raost pre-eminent success. The Catholic missionaries have always succeeded in gaining the Indians' hearts, in controlling their brutal outbreaks and ameliorating their condition in every respect, " Being fully convinced of this, the object of this letter is to obtain your intercession with your superiors for the formation of a raission among the Blackfeet. Such a rais sion I am sure would advance the interests of the Govern ment and those of the Indians at the same time. " You know also that the Government's treaty with these Indians on Judith river in the Blackfoot territory makes ample provision for the support of the establishment by yearly money payments. Hoping that ray request may be successful, I have the honor to be, etc., "ALFRED VAUGHAN," 13 18 GOVERNMENT MONEY IN SIGHT, St, Louis University, April i, 1858. Reverend F, Congiato, S, J, P. C: Reverend Dear Father. — I received your kind letter with the inclosed of Father Menetrey — I sincerely thank your Reverence for all the kindness you express in it, I have only a few minutes to write you and on a subject highly important to the Rocky Mountain missions, I just re ceived a letter from Lieutenant Mullan, a Catholic and very much in favor of our Indian missions. He tells me " I have seen the chairman of the Indian Committee and he says that all the Indian treaties made by Governor Stevens are to be confirmed, and that in these treaties the most ample provision has been made for schools, farms, utensils, etc. All of which, in the mountains, will be under the eye of the Jesuits. They are going to establish a farm and manual-labor school on Sun River, for which there will be near $45,000, and from all appearances Father Hoeken will have all to do with it, if he will avail himself of it ! " I begged the lieutenant to call on Father Accolti in San Fran cisco and to let you know iramediately of the whole of this affair. Father Hoeken should be authorized to accept; the Blackfeet and Crow Indians would be thus secured to the Catholic cause. He has all jurisdiction from Bishop Miege on this side of the mountains, I hope my letter on this sub ject will have reached him long ago. Should this affair be neglected, Protestants will try im mediately to obtain all the advantages which the Govern ment now offers so abundantly for the progressing of those poor missions. Orders came to St, Louis last evening frora Washington to send up by the first boats to the Black foot country oxen, cows, plows and other farming uten sils, all to be placed in the hands of the Fathers, should the thing be accepted. All the agents in that region are also in our favor. Some three months ago I wrote to his Paternity in favor of the new missions east of the Rocky Mountains, I hope to obtain a favorable answer, I will LIEUTENANT MULLAN FRIENDLY. I3I9 try all [I can] that one or two Fathers and a few Brothers might be sent on that expedition. It will at once secure the Indians on the western side. Father Hoeken being on the ground and in the neighborhood of the Blackfeet should be allowed at once to proceed in this glorious undertaking. Lieutenant John Mullan can tell you more about it. Please see him and confer with him on the subject; or should you be unable. Reverend Father Paresce will take, no doubt, all the interest in this great offer from Government, and which will make the missions on both sides altogether independent in a temporal view, I am trying my best at present to obtain some little things in St, Louis for the missions in the mountains, which I will forward by the first boats in the course of the present month, I will probably accompany one of the boats and pay a visit to the Indian tribes of the Plains, Several of the officers of the army have asked me to accompany the expedition to Utah, Should the application come from headquarters, I will accept. The Provincial, who is now absent, has already granted permission. Remember me to all the Fathers in California and pray for me, etc. P. S. — Excuse the great hurry in which this has been written. I should have added the following, from the let ter of Lieutenant Mullan : " Suffice it for me to say that the day is nigh at hand when we shall be enabled to see carried out our most sanguine wishes and hopes regarding these raany little bands of Indians in the mountains," etc. St, Louis University, Feb, 24, 1862. Bishop TiMON : Right Reverend Bishop. — I returned to St. Louis on the 22d instant. Your kind favor of the 12th was handed me and agreeably to your request I answer it. The number of 1320 PROTESTANT UNSCRUPULOUS CUNNING, Catholic Indians in Kansas among the Osages and Pota watomies, etc., is approximately, I should think, not far below 4,000. I have written to the Superior of the mis sions to be correctly informed on the subject and shall for ward his answer to your Lordship when received. The Catholic Magazine, Baltimore, of 1849-50, edited by the Very Reverend C, White, D, D., published a number of letters of Reverend Fathers Bax and Gailland, missionaries among the Osage and Potawotami Indians, giving de tailed accounts of their labors and of their success. Since about fifteen years, the agents of the Government in their yearly published accounts, though Protestants, have always reported most favorably and coramendably of the Catholic missions in Kansas. The piety, fidelity and zeal in the St. Mary's Potawatomi mission have always been conspicuous araong a great nuraber of the Christian Indians. Since Kansas has becorae a State and since civilization has crept in and with it vice and drunkenness and all mischief, there is great danger for the existence and continuation of those missions ; and " the Protestant trick of damning by faint praise," as your Lordship says, may be again renewed on this occasion. " It is easy to show that Protestant un scrupulous cunning worked whatever failure there was." As far as my own experience has gone in regard to Protest ant missions, east and west of the Rocky Mountains, they have proved a complete failure. Nothing remains of their raissions in Oregon and Washington Territory but rich and extensive tracts of lands, enriching the ci-devant mission aries, their better halves and their little ones, o is their number of converts, and mighty little do they care. I raust make a rough guess at the number of Christian Indians west of the Rocky Mountains. Including all that has been done under the Right Reverend Bishops and by the secular clergy, by the Oblate Fathers and by the Jesuits, over 6,000 must have been regenerated in the holy waters of baptisra. The Coeur d'Alene raission numbers between 600 and 700 souls. The Pend d'Oreille and Kalispel mis- MISSIONS IN GREAT DANGER, I32T sion numbers from 1,200 to 1,500. The Flathead tribe contains about 600; the Kootenai tribe number about 1,000, nearly all baptized, and though for sixteen years since their baptism without a resident missionary, the zeal and fervor of the Kootenai Indians as true Christians has never abated. Their Christian simplicity, their sincere piety, their charity and their love of justice, are admired by all who frequent the mountains. This day, I take the liberty to forward to your Lordship Les Missions de I'Oregon. Letters Nos. Ill, XVII, XX, XXII, XXXII and others may contain some edifying points. Governor Stevens of Oregon, in his report to the Govern ment, published in 1854-55, upon his explorations and surveys for a railroad route to the Pacific ocean, speaks most highly and favorably of our Rocky Mountain missions, of the Flatheads, Kalispels, Pend d'Oreilles, Coeur d'Alenes and Kootenais, These missions are all in great danger. The rich mines are now greatly attracting attention and thousands of whites will soon be on the move to take possession of them. In my Oregon Missions, published in 1847, page 125, I said: " Poor, unfortunate Indians ! They trample on treasures unconscious of their wealth. They would tremble, indeed, could they learn the history of those numerous and ill-fated tribes (in South Araerica, etc.) that have been swept frora their land to make place for Christians who have made the poor Indians the victims of their rapacity." Unhappy times, I am afraid, may befall the Indians of the raountains before long. Two years ago, whilst I was with the army in Oregon, the transportation of liquor toward the newly-dis covered mines of Colville on the Columbia was immense and the baneful effects on the poor, simple savage were soon felt. The reports which I receive now and then from our Fathers east and west of the mountains are satisfactO'ry and consoling. The improvements which they make at their respective stations are slow, but yet they have been unin- 1322 ENDEAVORS NOT FRUITLESS. terrupted. The missionaries are at present more comfort ably lodged than they were formerly ; their arduous labors, however, allow them but little time to enjoy the sweets of a convenient dwelling. The churches too are now more commodious and more substantially built, so that the se verity of winter is less dreaded. Their fare is not always of the most delicate kind, but it is nourishing, abundant and wholesome. The Indians are in general good and tractable and after baptism often zealous and fervent ; yet their early habits and their roving disposition make it difficult, if not impossible, to accustom thera to the manners of a more civil ized life. Their nature should, perhaps, be less blamed for this than the circumstances of their location. The Indian, like every other being, stands in need of food to support life and of raiment to protect him against the in clemency of the weather. If these accessories cannot be found in the neighborhood, he is obliged to go in search of them elsewhere; and until by some means or other this ob stacle is removed, the same difficulties will continue to ex ist and produce the sarae baneful results; for it can easily be iraagined that it is impossible for the missionaries to maintain at their own expense whole tribes of Indians, Consequently they raust see their flocks scattered and ex posed to the ravenousness of the wolves without enjoying the benefit of that spiritual aid so necessary to a Christian's life. Our endeavors, however, have certainly not been fruitless. The great nuraber of souls that are every year cleansed in the regenerating waters of baptism; the sick who are at tended in their dying hour and strengthened with the holy sacraments for their journey to the other life, and finally the hardships and destitution of the missionaries endured for the love of him who laid down his life for his breth ren: all this, I say, is fruit enough (whatever Protestants may say of the " no permanent result of Catholic missions ") and prepares the missionaries, if not for a reward in this life, for imperishable laurels in the next world. PRESENT STATE OF POTAWATOMIES, 1 323 Mr, John G. Shea of New York intends to publish shortly a little biography of the life and death of a holy Coeur d'Alene woman, with several edifying letters on the mission Indians of the Rocky Mountains. If applied to by your Lordship, he raight give a great deal of inforraa- tion such as you may require. With sentiments of profound respect and esteem, I have the honor to remain, etc. St, Mary's Mission, August 30, 1866.^ Reverend Father: On ray return from my mission among the Indians of the plains, upon the upper Missouri, or in the new Terri tories of Nebraska and Montana, I have visited the Mission of St, Mary among the Potawatomies. I have found my dear brothers in Jesus Christ in good health. There are four Fathers and ten Brothers of thera. The mission stretches several hundred miles westward, and they water this vast vineyard of the Lord with their sweat, and cultivate it with the greatest zeal and with much success. Every year thousands of emigrants are coraing and settling in this fertile and beautiful region. In the last four years. Rev erend Father Duraortier has established twenty-four sta tions among them, and built four stone churches. He makes regular visits over a distance of 150 railes every six weeks. The flourishing condition in which I have found the two Indian schools has filled me with consolation and joy. That for boys is under the care of the Brothers and contains 150 boarders, that for girls is under the maternal care of the respectable Ladies of the Sacred Heart and con tains over 100 boarders. They are considered the two model schools of the State of Kansas. I propose to give you here an idea of the present position of St. Mary's and 5 From the French of the Linton Album, p. 99. 1324 INSPECTION BY HIGH OFFICIALS, of the salutary influence which it continues to exert in the land under the new regime which governs it, St. Mary's does not offer any very great news items. It continues its little march, without making much noise; tranquil amid the rapid changes at work, both within itself and among the surrounding population. The Potawato mies, who profess Christianity, are faithful to their re ligious duties — their assiduity at the divine office is the admiration of all who know them. They take particular pains with the instruction of youth ; the two schools are ac cordingly very flourishing. Last year, the Vice-President of the United States, Mr. Foster, and Senator Doolittle, honored them with their presence; examined diligently the greater part of the pupils, and sent to Washington a testi monial which is no less the faithful expression of an up right and magnanimous heart, than it is glorious for the Catholics. The Americans are so well aware of the value of the religious education that we give young people, that they constantly importune the directors of the schools for the admission of their children. All the places are taken, and if the houses were doubled they would be filled at once. The use of liquor, which is generally the curse of the Indian tribes, seems to moderate in proportion to the ease with which it can be obtained. In the last three or four years no noteworthy crimes have been committed among them. A good number of families are living in easy cir cumstances — their farras and dwellings raay be corapared with those of the Araericans around thera. The railroad which is in a few years to unite the States of the Orient to those of the Occident, crosses the Potawatomi territory. It brings them several great advantages ; it raises the price of land, facilitates the exchange of products and furnishes openings for remunerative work to the industrious young men. Many American and European colonists are settling among the mission Indians. Some marry their daughters, some buy their surplus lands. Sorae have built close to the mission, attracted principally by the vicinity of the church PROVISIONS OF NEW TREATY, I325 and schools, St, Mary's, as I have already observed, is the centre of a vast field of missionary operations; their apostolic labors, among the Catholics, Indian and white, extend upward of 150 miles from the residence. Divine Providence seems to have shown itself always favorable to the Mission of St, Mary, especially amid the tempests which have seemed to threaten its existence. Lately, at the most critical moment perhaps in the nation's history, it has given the establishment, in the person of their excellent agent, Mr. Palraer, not only a sincere friend but also a wise and devoted protector. By means of his care, the nation has just concluded a treaty with the Governraent ¦ which seeras to confirm the residence of the Potawatomies in this country. By the provisions of this treaty, each In dian has received his portion of land. Those who wish to become citizens and are found worthy by a coramission established for the purpose, may do so imraediately — minors are obliged to wait until they are twenty-one — meanwhile they are prohibited from selling their lands, and have a right to the school privileges. Those who are of age, but who, either from misbehavior or frora lack of industry, are deemed unworthy to be citizens, are obliged to wait some time and to deserve this honor by industrious life and irre proachable conduct. May the Imraaculate Virgin, whom the Potawatomies have chosen for patroness, continue her puissant aid to them, amid the difficulties and dangers to which they are constantly exposed on the part of their ene mies. Accept my most humble respects and believe me in union of your holy sacrifices and prayers, University of St. Louis, Nov, 11, 1866, My Reverend and Dear Father: I received yesterday your kind letter of the 4th of this month, I think the holy providence of the Lord, who sent 1326 THE JOURNEY OF 1863, three more raissionaries to this iraraense portion of his vineyard, where the needs are indeed great and where you will be received with open arras by our dear brothers in Christ. You ask me for information upon the continuation of my voyage to the Rocky Mountains. I will give you here briefly the details of my last two long voyages to those remote missions : In 1863 I tried to return to Benton by steamer with a large cargo for the missions in the mountains, at the special desire of our dear missionaries in these places. The water in the upper part of the Missouri was low this year and the steamer was obliged to discharge all her cargo and put the passengers off in a forest about 300 railes from Benton, An express was sent to Benton and I wrote to the Rev erend Fathers Giorda and Imoda, then in the raission of St, Peter araong the Blackfeet, to come and take care of the cargo and the charge of two Italian Brothers, We waited about three weeks for a response amidst the great est dangers frora savage bands, eneraies of the whites. Every day we were on the alert and in an attack from a large number of Sioux, two of our raen were severely injured, I finally received a response from our reverend and dear Fathers, who announced to me that it was an impossibility to send rae help. I was obliged then to do my best to get the effects to them and to accompany the two good Brothers to the mission of St. Peter. The season advancing, and not wishing to return by way of the Missouri because of the great dangers from the In dians, I was obliged to take the sea voyage of the Pacific, pass the Isthmus of Panama and return by way of New York to St. Louis. My journey this year, as far as the stage of water is concerned, was more favorable. We reached Benton where I hoped to find Father Giorda or some one of the Fathers to take care of a precious cargo that I had made great ef- PRICE OF STEAMBOAT FARE, I327 forts to procure for them. A new war of the Blackfeet against the whites had compelled the missionaries of St. Peter to abandon that raission and repair to the mission of St. Ignatius, on the west slope of the Rocky Mountains 200 miles distant. They told me the circumstances and the condition of the country in which they were and stated that it was impossible for thera to take possession of the effects and begged rae to dispose of the cargo at the house of sorae inhabitant of Benton. The cargo contained ob jects precious to the churches and were for the use of the Indian raissions. Altogether their value araounted to a large sum of money. I have never yet received the least news whether these objects have reached their destination, I enter into these details to give you the uncertainties of the route of the Missouri for reaching Benton and the missions in the mountains. I shall not return to Benton next spring. If the good Lord will grant me health, and with the permission of my superiors, I will make a visit araong the Yanktons, a tribe of 3,000 Indians, belonging to the Sioux nation, which is very numerous. They are on this side of the mountains about 1,800 miles from Benton. As to the price of passage upon the steamers from St. Louis to Benton, it araounts to $300 for each passenger; and for all that he brings beyond fifty pounds he pays from fifteen to twenty cents per pound. Until this year I have always had my passage with ray effects gratis upon the steamers of the Fur Company of St. Louis. This corapany is to-day dissolved and it is, conse quently, very doubtful if I shall raeet again with such a favor inasmuch as the companies are constituted principally of Protestants. I cannot, at this tirae, give you the least assurance that there will be a diminution in the price, nor do I yet know the names of the steamers that propose to risk the voyage to Benton the coming spring (1867). The voyage from New York to Idaho and Montana, by way of Panama, San Francisco and by the Columbia river. 1328 THE OVERLAND AND PANAMA ROUTES. is long, but it is easier and raore sure and is made in less tirae than by the Missouri river. The voyage by way of the Missouri, if made favorably and without the least ob stacle, takes ordinarily three months. By way of the Pacific it takes from New York to Panama ordinarily nine days ; frora there to San Francisco, twelve days ; frora San Francisco to Vancouver, on the Columbia river, four days ; from Vancouver to Walla Walla, three to four days; from Walla Walla to the Mission of the .Sacred Heart among the Coeur d'Alenes, six days. If I have been well informed on the subject of this journey, they grant a diminution in price upon the steamer from San Francisco to Walla Walla, The Reverend Fathers Accolti or Congiato will be able to give you information upon this point, ********** I recommend to your holy sacrifices and prayers the new mission which I hope to be able to establish next spring immediately after the opening of navigation of the Mis souri. My raission araong these Indian tribes last summer has been for rae a source of consolation, I visited prin cipally the Yanktons, belonging to the Sioux nation, the Minnetarees, the Aricaras, the Mandans and the Assini boins. I had the happiness to regenerate in the holy waters of baptisra over 500 little children and a good number of adults, among the latter Pananniapapi, head chief of the tribe of the Yanktons, composed of 450 lodges or nearly 3,000 souls. He asked urgently that a mission be per manently established among them. Pray the Lord to grant a good personnel and the necessary funds for this new en terprise. The country of the Yanktons is the key to the entrance of the numerous Sioux nations which number from 35,000 to 40,000 souls. In union with our holy sacrifices and prayers, I have the honor to be, etc. EXPENSES AS PACIFICATOR, 1 329 St, Louis University, St, Louis, Mo,, September, 1867, Honorable Sir: I hope my second letter from Sioux City in July last has been received, I arrived in St, Louis on the 13th ultimo, after an absence of four months. At Leavenworth (i2th ultimo) I had the honor to meet the Peace Com missioners and hold a conference with thera, and was kindly requested by all the honorable members to accompany the expedition. Sickness has prevented me of accomplishing the request and fulfilling my promise. At my return to health, I avail myself of the first oppor tunity to write to you and to render my account of expenses and outlays of my visit among the Indian tribes of the Missouri, as recommended in the commission I received from the Department of the Interior on the 2d of March of the present year. When in Washington last February I received from the department the sum of $2,500 to defray my necessary ex penses and outlays for the men who accompanied me on the expedition, I herewith account for the money I have ex pended on ray trip, to the best of my knowledge and recol lection; the sum amounts to $1,576.70, This balance in favor of the Department of the Interior I am ready to re fund upon the presentation of the order I shall receive. All the recommendations I received, in my commission from the Honorable Commissioner of Indian Affairs, I have tried to carry out faithfully and to the best of my power and I trust may prove available to the Indian tribes I have visited. -Allow me to add a few lines on ray late expedition among the Indians of the Upper Missouri, at Yankton agency and its vicinity. I met most of the Indians of the Yankton tribe, numbering about 2,500, They are all true friends of the whites. They are in a prosperous condition with re gard to agriculture. The chiefs begged me to establish schools amongst them, for which a proper yearly outlay 84 1330 A CURE FOR INDIAN TROUBLES, will have to be established before it can be undertaken. At Fort Thompson I found over 100 lodges encamped, com posed of Brules, Yanktonnais and Two Kettles. At old Fort Sully, over 200 lodges were encamped, composed prin cipally of Blackfeet-Sioux, Two Kettles, Briiles, Yankton nais, Yanktons, Sans-arcs, Minniconjous and Ogallalas, At Fort Rice over 500 lodges awaited the arrival of Gen erals Sully and Parker and myself. The remainder of the tribe of Yanktonnais were here assembled, together with bands of Tetes-coupees, Hunkpapas and Blackfeet-Sioux, At Berthold we met the three united and friendly bands of Aricaras, Grosventres [of the Missouri] and Mandans, who have always remained faithful and have strictly adhered to the Laramie Treaty, held in 185 1. At Buford we met a good number of chiefs and braves, belonging to various bands of Assiniboins. General Sully did me the favor to communicate to me his reports to the Commissioner of Indian Affairs before he forwarded them and I concur in every statement he has made concerning our intercourse with the various tribes of Indians, The Indians in all their speeches and in the private conversations I held with the chiefs who frequently visited me possessed friendly dispositions toward the whites and a strong determination to keep aloof from ^ the war bands. Their complaints have been faithfully noted down for trans mission to the Department of the Interior. It is my candid opinion, should due regard be paid to the just complaints of the Indians, should their annuities be delivered in due and proper time, and implements of agriculture be supplied to thera and should they be dealt with honestly and kindly by agents and other persons in the employ of the Govern ment, the bands above mentioned will be kept friendly to the whites, and the warrior bands in the Upper Missouri plains will gradually and soon join the peaceable tribes. As to placing them on one or two great reservations, patience, on the part of the Government will.be necessary. A SLOW TRANSFORMATION. I33I It must be the work of tirae, or at least of a few years. The Indians we met were disposed, together with their agents, to select suitable reserves for farming on their own ground or country they claim. A good number of families among each band showed favorable dispositions to go to work at once. Should their efforts prove successful, in the first, second and third years, the example of the working class will then be followed by the greatest number or the entire tribe, and once understanding the great advantages of agri culture and the raising of stock and subsisting and tasting of the fruits of their labor, they might later be more easily induced to go on one or two great reservations, in imitation of the Choctaws, Cherokees, etc. From old Fort Sully I sent out several Indian expresses to the hostile bands to come and see me. Over loo warriors of the Hunkpapas (a great war band) came to Fort Rice and awaited the arrival of Generals Sully and Parker and rayself during ten days. Their families being in want of provisions, they returned to the plains for their buffalo hunt. They left word for me, in particular, with Messrs. Galpin and I,^a Framboise (interpreters) that they were very anxious to confer with me, and showed, as reported by the two gentlemen, strong dispositions toward peace. Should ray health permit it is my intention and desire to return to the Upper Missouri country early next spring and to visit principally the war-parties, I shall do my best to carry out the views of the Government in regard to the In dian tribes and to dispose these deluded and unhappy people to measures of peace with the whites. To promote my pur pose and intention, a simple permit, on the part of the Cora raissioner of Indian Affairs, would be very acceptable to rae. With sentiments of the highest consideration of respect and esteem, I have the honor to be, etc. To the Commissioner of Indian Affairs, Washington, D. C. 1332 FRIENDLY TRIBES STEADFAST, St, Louis University, Sept. 4, 1868, Dear General: I received your very interesting letter of the 14th ultimo and return you ray sincere thanks for your kind remem brance of me, I am happy to learn that your dear family are in the enjoyment of excellent health. If your dear lit tle daughters were to visit St. Louis they would be noticed with admiration, and all the mammas would wish for their children a climate like that of Fort Sully and its neighborhood. A word on the " Cannon Ball " you launched from your headquarters. It has been rolling and rolling all over the country and was noticed in all the Catholic papers, both American and German, As I learn, the ball is now rollick ing among my acquaintances in Belgium and Holland and by this time must have reached Rome, I must make you accountable and be grateful at the same time. The great praise you gave me was truly little merited on my part. The article has been extensively read and has been well re ceived b)"^ all parties. No doubt it will do much good to the Catholic missions. I dread the consequences of the new outbreak along the Platte and its tributaries and fear it may extend anew among the upper tribes of the Missouri and Yellowstone plains. I place, however, great reliance on the numerous friendly bands of Indians in the vicinity of Forts Sully and Rice, They have been always so well cared for and so well advised by their respective and fatherly commanders, I hope their example will be imitated and followed by their wilder brethren of the plains, I read to-day in the Missouri Republican, that the Sioux in the upper Platte country have refused to join the Chey ennes and Arapahos in their actual depredations and mur ders against the whites. General Sherman is still absent from St, Louis, At his return I shall lay all your reasons before him, regarding the HARNEY UNDERSTANDS THE CASE. 1 333 Indians in your district and around Fort Rice. Their going to Fort Randall cannot reasonably be expected. I think General Harney does understand this affair fully well and I hope will attend to it, if in his power. He had left St, Louis before I received your letter, I hope. General, you will keep your proraise of honoring me now and then with a letter. Your letters will be always most welcome, I shall continue to remember you in the holy sacrifice of the altar and all that is 4ear to you and daily offer up to the Lord your good desires and resolu tions. Renew them often and always with a full confidence and reliance on the goodness, mercy and grace of our Lord and the powerful protection and assistance of the ever blessed and imraaculate Virgin Mary, the refuge of all who invoke her in their need. The same day your letter arrived I received one from our worthy friend. Captain Duffy. I was happy to learn that his lady and children are well. I intend, shortly, to write to him. I trust the package of books forwarded by Mr. Fox has reached him by this time. Two of the books I have in scribed to you. Please present ray best respects to Mrs. Stanley and to Captain Duffy and family. Most respectfully, dear General, your humble and obedient servant, Major-General D. S. Stanley, Fort Sully, Dakota., St. Louis University, Nov. i8, 1870. Hon, E. S. Parker, Commissioner of Indian Affairs, Wash ington, D. C: Honorable Sir. — I have been closely and intiraately con nected with the Potawatomi Mission in Kansas ever since 1334 NAMES A POTAWATOMI AGENT, its existence, and was one of the founders of said mission, always taking the deepest interest in its success, I see from a recent paper that " but twelve or fifteen agents remain to be selected, and these will be named as soon as the various religious bodies consulted have presented their choice," Under the above consideration and under the newly-adopted method of the President of the United States in regard to the Indian agencies, to wit : " That there should be a good understanding between the acting agent and the missionary or teacher for the welfare of the Indians under their con trol," etc., I have been very particularly requested by the missionaries who superintend St. Mary's Mission among the Potawatomies in Kansas to propose to your kind considera tion the nomination of Doctor Palmer for that station. Doc tor Palmer, as agent, has always been very efficient and ac ceptable to the great majority of the Potawatomies and their missionaries. I doubt not his reappointment to the agency would be a source of great joy to thera and accepted as a great favor. With sentiments of profound respect and esteem, etc. St, Louis University, Dec, 6, 1870, Honorable E, S, Parker, Commissioner of Indian Affairs, Washington, D. C: Honorable Sir. — Pardon me the liberty I take in send ing you some coraraunications I have just received frora my brethren in the Catholic missions west of the Rocky Moun tains, Having been the founder of several of these mis sions, over thirty years ago, I take deep interest in their welfare. In regard to the Pend d'Oreille and Flathead agency, the missionaries desire me to inform you that they are well pleased with the appointment of the actual agent, Mr. T. C. Jones, and express great hope that he may be continued in a reminiscence of PARIS, 1335 his office for which he has all the requisite qualities, and in a religious view he exercises great influence on the minds of the Indians. The Yakima Indians in Washington Territory have had an established Catholic mission for a number of years, and many of the Indians are merabers of the Church and desire the re-establishraent of their old mission, and to receive the consolation of their rehgion and the instructions of the former teachers, the priests. I ara informed that the actual agent, Wilbur, forbids the Catholic missionary " to set his foot on the Yakima reservation." The Spokan Indians have been visited by our mission aries for a great number of years and are nearly all practical members of religion. It is most desirable for the welfare of these Indians that an agent in full harmony and sympathy with their missionaries raight be appointed. With sentiments of the highest esteera and respect, etc. St. Louis University, Feb. 11, 1871. Reverend Dear Father D'Aste: I received your kind favor of the 20th ultimo, I remem ber the circumstances you allude to in your letter, " of mak ing a show in an Indian dress in one of ray visits to Paris " — a providential mark, as you express it, " of your future destiny; the evangelizing the poor Indians." I am much obliged to your Reverence for the news you give me con cerning the Flatheads and the good and dear Fathers at the mission. I am very sensible to the kind remembrance you sent me in their name and daily pray that the Lord may prosper your holy undertaking for the welfare of the In dians. Please remember me to all and beg their prayers in my favor. I have been called to Washington by the Secretary of the Interior where a great council has been held on Indian af- 1336 FLATHEADS TO BE REMOVED, fairs in general. I then learned that forty-three Indian sta tions were to be divided among different denominations in the various sections of the country inhabited by the Indians, of which only four are assigned to the Catholics, viz, : one in Dakota (the mission we intend to establish in the spring among the Sioux), one in New Mexico, another in Mon tana (Flathead) and a fourth in Idaho. In the whole of this affair the Indians have not been consulted as to the re ligion they desired to belong to. I have given all the infor mation I could give concerning our missions in Montana and Idaho; but I had no statistics to present from any of the Fathers as to the number of Indians converted, the schools and the various Indian tribes visited and attended by our Fathers. I have frequently called for such accounts and I stand much in need of them to render myself useful to the missions. I hope the Fathers will forward them at their earliest opportunity. They ought to be written as present able to the Government, Please inform Reverend Father Giorda on this important subject, that he may inforra the Fathers at St. Mary's, at St. Ignatius, at the Sacred Heart at Colville, etc., naraing all the tribes converted or under instruction and the localities they inhabit. Upon the in- forraation given the Governraent may and will modify its plan of christianizing and civilizing the Indians, I am instructed to raake the same request of the very Reverend Mr. Brouillet, Vicar-General at Walla Walla, and of the Archbishop and Bishop Blanchet in favor of their Indian missions, if they have any. From what I understand in Washington, " it is the inten tion of Governraent to reraove the Flathead Indians from the Bitter Root valley — volens vel nolens." If volens, it would be a happy thing. I dare give no advice on the sub ject. Reverend Father Giorda must know what is best un der existing circumstances. I think the Government is re solved. I have done what I could to obtain the approval of the name of Agent Jones by the Senators. McConley as agent of the Blackfeet did not pass the Senate. My en- VICTOR, THE FLATHEAD CHIEF, 1 337 deavors to the contrary had no success, as we have no resi dent mission among the Blackfeet, The same in regard to the Crow Indians, My health is not good. I thank your Reverence for your kind invitation to pay a visit to the Rocky Mountain mis sions, I would gladly perform the trip, if in my power to do it, I may be directed by my superiors to accompany the Fa thers and to comraence the new raission at Grand River among the Sioux. However, I do not give up the hope of seeing the Rocky Mountain missions once more. I feel a great interest in doing what I can for their continuance, ********* Please give my best respects to Father Giorda and the whole community at St, Mary's Mission, Bitter Root valley, I have the honor to be, etc. St, Louis University, March, 1871, Colonel S, F, Tappan, 436 K Street, Washington, D. C: Dear Sir. — I received your kind favor of the 17th ultimo. Bodily indisposition has retarded my answer. You men tion in your letter McKenney's history of the Indian tribes of America, published in splendid style by the firm of Messrs. Rice & Butler, who call on you for additional portraits and among these, you express a desire to add the portrait of Victor, chief of the Flatheads,' whom you style " a truly representative man, a representative of the re ligious element." During his long career as the leader of his tribe, he gained the good will, the confidence of all, even the admiration of his enemies by the suavity and dig nified simplicity of his manners and his bravery and cour age when called into action, I shall ever remember with the deepest sentiments of consolation the day on which Victor received baptism, the joy and happiness he expressed when together with a great number of other adults of his 1338 victor's death REGRETTED, tribe he was admitted into the " Fold of the Lord," of which he has ever been a bright example. An extract from the " Explorations and Surveys," etc, (of Governor Stevens), from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean (vol, i, p. 308) calls to mind the " rehgious element " of Victor and of his people. Captain Mullan says : "When the guide and myself had reached the Flathead camp, three or four men met us at the entrance, and invited us to enter the lodge of the chief, Victor. They very kindly took care of our horses, unsaddling and watering them. As soon as the camp had heard of the arrival of a white man among them, the principal raen of the tribe congregated in the lodge of the chief. When they had all asserabled by a signal frora their chief they offered up a prayer. This astonished me ; it was something for which I had not been prepared. Every one was upon his knees and in the most solemn and reverential manner offered up a prayer to God. For a raoraent I asked rayself, was I araong Indians ? Was I among those termed by every one savages? I could scarcely realize it. To think that these raen should be thus imbued and so deeply too with the principles of religion, was to rae overwhelming." (Page 311, Mullan continues) "I cannot say too much in favor of these noble men; they were pious, firm, upright and reliable men ; in addition thereto they entertained a re ligious belief which they never violated. They partook not of a meal without asking a blessing of God ; they never rose in the morning or retired at night without offering a prayer to God. These Flatheads have always been held in the highest estimation and this I can fully confirm from actual observation." In the summer of last year (1870) the Montana news papers announced as a public calamity the death of Victor, the Nestor of the Rocky Mountains, great chief of the Flatheads. The above quoted captain, on learning the death of his old friend, addressed to all the Flatheads the follow ing tribute in commemoration of their illustrious and old CAPTAIN MULLAN S TRIBUTE. 1 339 chieftain. From MuUan's following tribute and the above quotations an appropriate little sketch may be compiled to accompany Victor's portrait, " To the Indians of the Flathead Nation in Montana Ter ritory : " Your friend. Captain Mullan, has learned with great sadness and regret the loss you have sustained in the death of your great and good chief, Victor. "As the long and oft-tried friend of the white men, Victor had no superior among the red men of America. Mild and gentle as a woman and innocent of wrongs as a child, he commanded his people for near a half century. " Your friend, while residing among your people, knew Victor well. He has eaten and slept and smoked at his camp fires, traveled with him to the hunt ; has seen him help the widow and orphan of his tribe, and go in person on raissions of peace to the Blackfeet, to the Crows, to the Sioux and to the Bannocks, endeavoring to raaintain with thera friendly relations. Brave in battle and generous in peace, he has set an exaraple worthy of iraitation to all In dian tribes. To his many and constant acts of kindness do I chiefly attribute the fact, that while I resided in your mountains I never had any of mine injured or any of my horses stolen. " Victor's record as your chief is on file in the archives of the Governraent at Washington, and I shall use ray best endeavors to have the Indian Department erect a monument to his memory, to commemorate his worth and his acts, and at the same tirae to teach all Indians that their good deeds shall never die. " In reading the death of Victor I feel that the white raan has lost a friend and I could not do less than say as, rauch to your people. " In the selection of Victor's successor, may you choose a chief that possesses, if possible, all his virtues, and raay the mantle of his widespread greatness fall on his shoulders. 1340 VICTOR INVITES THE POPE. " Victor to-day is resting from his labors in the home which the Great Spirit has prepared in eternity for all his children whq do right. May it be our good fortune to meet him again among the happy spirits of the celestial abode, " Father De Smet, Mullan and all your friends among the whites have many reasons for feeling exceedingly sad to hear of the death of the great and good chief, Victor," This tribute to the memory of Victor, given by Captain Mullan, is highly deserving of the chief of the Flatheads, and I am happy to be able to subscribe to it fully and bear him testimony, I have been intimately acquainted with Victor for years during my missionary residence and visits to the Rocky Mountain missions. In their hunting ex peditions I used to pass the beautiful summer and autumnal evenings seated on the grass and flowery meadows of their lovely mountain valley, surrounded by my dear neophytes. They took the liveliest interest in my narratives of holy writ — on the creation, on the deluge, the ark of Noah, the Maccabees, Samson, Joseph and his brethren, etc, I occasionally entertained them on American and European events and wars, on Washington and his great country, on the battles of Napoleon I, his struggles and his final over throw at Waterloo; on the long list of sovereign pontiffs, successors of St. Peter, to whom Christ has promised " that the gates of hell shall never prevail against his Church," adding that the attempts to overthrow the Church and its supreme pastors had lasted for over 1,800 years and the Church had gloriously survived all her enemies. At this Victor hastily rose, full of animation, and said : " Should our Great Father, the Great chief of the Black-robes, be in danger, — you speak on paper (or write) ; send him a mes sage in our name, and invite him to our mountains. We will raise his lodge in our midst ; we will hunt for him and keep his lodge provided, and will guard him against the approach of his enemies." As this last trait belongs to Victor, I have taken the liberty of adding it to the little biography of our great Rocky Mountain chieftain. It is a THE POPE TAKES IT SERIOUSLY, I34I proof of his filial and religious affection and the generosity of his heart. In 1843 I found myself for the first time at Rome, and the very Reverend Father-General Roothaan had the kind ness to present me to Gregory XVI. The Pope lent a paternal attention to my little narrative of the missions and my account of the good dispositions of the Indians of the Rocky Mountains. He smiled at Victor's proposition and invitation ; but then he said, with a seriousness of tone which has always lingered in my mind, " Truly, the tirae is at hand when we shall be forced to quit Rome, Whither shall we go ? — God alone knows — Give those good savages my apostolic benediction," Please present my best respects to Mrs, Tappan, I shall anxiously expect a copy of her valuable poem and wish for it a far-spread and great success, I have the honor to be, etc. St, Louis University, October 25, 1872, (HiCKEY.) Dear Sir, — I take great interest and pleasure in sending you some extracts of letters from Reverend Father Giorda, S, J,, Superior of the missions in the Territories of Montana and Idaho, known by the name of the Rocky Mountain [missions]. These letters were written in Italian in the years 1863, 1864, 1865 and were never published on this side of the Atlantic. I consider amongst the happiest days of my life when in 1840 I was sent out by ray superiors on a visit to the Rocky Mountain Indians to sound their dispositions and, if found favorable, to establish raissions araong them. They ex ceeded all ray expectations and in the course of a few years the following missions and missionary stations were erected : 1st, St, Mary's Mission among the Flatheads in the Bit ter Root valley. 1342 LIST OF MOUNTAIN MISSIONS, 2d, Sacred Heart Mission in the Coeur d'Alene country,, 3d. Mission of St. Paul near Colville on the upper Columbia. 4th, St. Ignatius Mission among the Kalispels, or Pend d'Oreilles, near Flathead lake. 5th. St. Peter's Mission for the Blackfeet near the Mis souri Falls. 6th. The Mission of St. Joseph among the Yakimas in Oregon Territory. 7th. The Mission of the Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary at Helena City. Besides, the Spokans, the Kootenais and a great number of other tribes have each their stations where they are regu larly visited by the Fathers of the various missionary estab lishments. The missionaries are thirty-three in. nuraber, of whora sixteen are priests and seventeen are lay brothers, raostly of the Society of Jesus from Turin (Italy), to whom the missions of the Rocky Mountains were transferred and where they have continued their apostolic labors with great fervor and zeal until this day. The extracts I now send you will go to show some of the hardships the missionaries encounter in their visits and ex cursions among the Indians; but at the same time the spiritual consolations and fruits they reap repay them a hundredfold. It is truly an encouraging scene to behold the happy and good dispositions of the Indians and the zeal and fervor they manifest on hearing the holy word of God and the consoling truths of salvation ; which, with the grace of God, they edifyingly embrace, when understood. With regard to the Indians in general allow me to add a few words from my own experience. The farther I find thera frora any intercourse with the whites, the better were they disposed to listen to the word of God. As the Indians approach the frontiers of our so-called civilization and raeet with the first intruders on their land, they soon become con taminated and fall victims to all its vices and sins. The A NOT TOO CONSOLING DOCTOR. 1 343 use of liquor is the first step and it is poured into them until their nature is changed and altogether brutalized. They sin, but they are more sinned against. " This prac tice of the destruction of a people of whom Providence has given us the guardianship, originating in such cases, is un worthy of the civilization of the age in which we live, and revolting to every sentiment of humanity." (McClelland, Secretary of the Interior.) Very respectfully, etc. St. Louis University, Oct. 27, 1872. Reverend P. P. Giorda and Guidi : • Reverend Dear Fathers. — I was truly happy in receiving your letter and am very thankful for all the news it con tains. I am particularly grateful for your kind invitation and would gladly make the journey if ray health permitted. I may decide this question early next spring. However, I must add that the doctor who attends rae gives me but very little hope and calls me a bird for the cat. It has afforded rae a great deal of consolation to have been able to assist good Father Guidi and his two companions, who are now prepar ing to enter the great vineyard of the Lord in Montana and Idaho, I wish them every success in the great work before them. Many thanks for the pious remembrances of the good Indians, I sympathize with the Flatheads in their sorrows and the injustices done them. Their separation from the whites and their baneful influence may, I hope, be in time a service to thera, I trust the Fathers will not abandon these good people whom General Stevens considered the model tribe among all the American Indians, Remeraber me to them, I daily offer up my prayers to God for their perse- 1344 WHITES slander the INDIANS, verance in the faith, their happiness and welfare, as likewise of the Pend d'Oreilles, the Coeur d'Alenes, Kootenais, etc. I have seen all the calumnies against the Flatheads in the newspapers and I knew them to be a pack of lies. It is the rule the whites follow when their interests are at stake. The Indians are everywhere their victims, I have full confidence that their good Fathers will not abandon them. PART IX. MISCELLANEOUS WRITINGS, (Descriptive, Personal, etc) (Unless otherwise noted, the letters in this part have not before been published.) CHAPTER I. The Rocky Mountains and the Prairie Ocean — Scarcity of timber — A deposit of alabaster — Independence Rock — Chimney Rock — The Platte and some other rivers — A tornado on the plains — An ode. I Sweetwater River, July 14, 1841. Very Reverend and Dear Father Provincial: ^ LREADY two long months have elapsed since we ^^ began our journey; but we are at length in sight of those dear raountains that have so long been the object of our desires. They are called Rocky, because they are almost entirely formed of granite and silex, or flint stone. The length, position and elevation of this truly wonderful chain of mountains have induced geographers to give to it the appellation of " the back-bone of the western hemisphere." Traversing almost the whole of North America, frora north to south, containing the sources of some of the largest streams of the world, this chain has for its branches, toward the west the spur of the Cordilleras, which divide the Em pire of Mexico, and toward the east the less known but not less wonderful mountains of the Wind river, where are 1 From Father De Smet's narrative of his joumey in 1841. Letters and Sketches, p. 76. 85 1346 SKETCH OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, found the sources of the large streams that empty them selves into the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. The Black Hills and the table lands, called Prairie Hills, which separate the sources of the upper Missouri from those of the Missis sippi, the Ozark and the Masserne ridges may all be considered as so many collateral chains of the Rocky Mountains. According to trigonometrical calculations and observa tions made by means of the barometer, Mr, Bonneville, in his raeraoirs, asserts that the suramits of some of these mountains are 25,000 feet high,^ This height would appear much exaggerated if we consulted only the testimony of the eyes, but it is well known that the mountains which are found in immense plains are not unlike ships seen on the ocean; they appear much less elevated than they are in reality. Whatever may be the height of these colossal mountains, it was at their base that we hoped to meet our dear neophytes. But a messenger we had sent to acquaint thera with our arrival has just returned and informed us that the Indians who lay encamped there about a fortnight ago went in a southerly direction to hunt the buffalo. We know not whether those Indians were Flatheads or belong to another nation, and it is to obtain information on this subject that we are going to dispatch a second messenger. In the meantime I shall continue my journal. The nu merous notes which, on account of our slow progress, we have been enabled to take on the spot will warrant that ex actness of description which is the more desirable, as it is a quality frequently wanting in the accounts given of these distant regions. Not to exceed the bounds of a lengthy letter, I shall say but little concerning perspectives, flowers, birds, animals, Indians and adventures. With the exception of the ridges which run parallel to 2 Bonneville's " calculations " and " observations " were all practically worthless from a scientific point of view. As elsewhere stated the highest of the northern mountains is less than 14,000 feet high. SCARCITY OF WOOD ON THE PLAINS, I347 each other on both sides of the Platte river, and which, after passing under the Black Hills, disappear at the base of the Rocky Mountains, the whole plain which we traversed for 1,500 miles after we had left Westport might be called the Prairie Ocean. In fact, nearly the whole of this territory is of an undulating form and the undulations resemble the billows of the sea when agitated by the storm. On the tops of some of these elevations we have seen shells and petrifactions, such as are found on several mountains in Europe. No doubt some impartial geologists raay discover here, as they have done elsewhere, incontestible proofs of the deluge. A petrified fragment which I have in my pos session, seems to contain a number of these shells. In proportion as one removes frora the banks of the Mis souri or penetrates into the western regions, the forests lose rauch in height, density and depth, in consequence of the scarcity of water. Soon after only the rivers are lined with narrow skirts of wood, in which are seldom seen any lofty trees. In the neighborhood of creeks and rivulets we generally find willow bushes, and where there is no water it would be vain to look for anything but grass, and even this grass is only found in the fertile plains that lie between Westport and the Platte River. This intimate connection between rivers and forests is so striking to the eye that our beasts of burden had not jour neyed more than eight days through this desert when we saw them in some manner exult and quicken their pace at the sight of trees that appeared at a distance. This was chiefly observable when the day's journey had been rather long. This scarcity of wood in the western regions, so much at variance with what is seen in other parts of North America, proceeds from two principal causes : In the plains on this side [south of] the Platte River, from the custom which the Indians who live here have adopted, of firing their prairies toward the end of autumn, in order to have better pasture at the return of spring; but in the Far West, where the Indians do not follow this practice (because they fear to 1348 A QUARRY OF ALABASTER. drive away the animals that are necessary for their sub sistence, or to expose themselves to be discovered by the strolling parties of their enemies), it proceeds from the nature of the soil, which, being a mixture of sand and hght earth, is everywhere so very barren that with the excep tion of the absinth that covers the plains, and the gloomy verdure that shades the mountains, vegetation is confined to the vicinity of rivers, — a circumstance which renders a journey through the Far West extremely long and tedious. Over considerable areas, chiefly between the Kansas and Platte rivers, are found blocks of granite of different sizes and colors. The reddish or porphyry is the most common. In some of the stony parts of the Black Hills are also seen numberless quantities of small pebbles of all shades. I have seen some that were united into solid masses. If these were well polished they would present the appearance of fine mosaics. The columns of the House of Representatives in Washington, which are deemed very handsome, are made of similar concretions. On June 29th, the feast of St. Peter, a remarkable occur rence took place. We discovered a curious quarry which, at first, we took for white marble, but we soon found it something more valuable. Astonished at the facility with which we could fashion this kind of stone into any shape, most of the travelers raade calumets of it. I had several made myself with the intention of offering them as pres ents to the Indians, so that for the space of forty-eight hours our camp was filled with lapidaries. But the greater nuraber of these calumets could not withstand the action of the fire and broke. It was alabaster. The first rock which we saw, and which truly deserves the name, was the famous Independence Rock. It is of the sarae nature as the Rocky Mountains. At first I was led to believe that it had received this porapous name frora its isolated situation and the solidity of its base; but I was afterward told that it was called so because the first travel ers who thought of giving it a narae arrived at it on the INDEPENDENCE AND CHIMNEY ROCKS. 1 349 very day when the people of the United States celebrate the anniversary of their emancipation from Great Britain, We reached this spot on the day that immediately succeeds this celebration. We had in our company a young English man, [Romaine] as jealous of the honor of his nation as the Americans ; hence we had a double reason not to cry " Hur rah for Independence." Still, on the following day, lest it might be said that we passed this lofty monument of the desert with indifference, we cut our names on the south side of the rock under initials (I. H. S.) which we would wish to see engraved everywhere, and along with a great number of others, sorae of which perhaps ought not to be found anywhere. On account of all these names, and of the dates that accompany thera. as well as of the hiero glyphics of Indian warriors, I called this rock on my first journey " the Great Record of the Desert." I shall add a few remarks about the buttes that are seen in the vicinity of the Platte River. The most remarkable of all, at least that which is best known to the generality of travelers, is the one to which they have given the name of " Chimney." It is called so on account of its extraordinary form ; but instead of applying to it an appellation which is rather unworthy this wonder of nature, just because it bears some resemblance to the object after which it is named, it would have been more proper to call it " the inverted fun nel," as there is no object which it resembles raore. Its whole height, including the base, body and column, is scarce less than 400 or 500 feet; the coluran or chimney is only about 130 feet high, so that there is nothing striking in the loftiness of its diraensions. But what excites our astonish- raent is the raanner in which this reranant of a mountain composed of sand and clay has been so shaped, and how it has for such a length of time preserved this form in spite of the winds that are so violent in these parts. It is true that this mound, and all those that are found near it, is com posed of a successive number of horizontal and perpendicu lar strata, and has about the middle a zone or belt, consist- 1350 OTHER FEATURES OF THE PLATTE, ing of a vein of petrified clay. If from these two facts it would be inferred that at a certain height the substance of which the horizontal and perpendicular strata are formed is susceptible of being hardened so as to approach the nature of stone, then we might perhaps account in sorae raanner for the wonderful formation of this curious orna ment. Yet the main difficulty would still remain, and we would at last be compelled to have recourse to the systera of occult qualities. The existence of the chimney is there fore a problem, and if any scientific person should wish to solve it, I would advise him to repair to this monuraent without delay, as a cleft which is seen at the top, and which in all probability will soon extend to the base, threatens to leave nothing of it but the remembrance of its existence. The Chimney is not the only remarkable mound to be met with in this vast solitude. There are many others of various forms. One is called " the [Court] House," an other " the Castle," a third " the Fort," etc. And, in fact, if a traveler were not convinced that he is journeying through a desert where no other dwellings exist but the tents put up at night and removed in the raorning, he would be induced to believe them so many ancient fortresses or Gothic castles, and with a little imagination, based upon some historical knowledge, he might think himself trans ported amid the ancient mansions of knight errantry. On one side are seen large ditches and high walls ; on the other, avenues, gardens and orchards; farther on, parks, ponds and lofty trees. Soraetiraes the fancy presents a castle of the raiddle ages and even conjures up the lord of the raanor ; but instead of all these raagnificent reraains of antiquity we find only barren mounds on all sides, filled with cliffs formed by the falling of the waters and serving as dens to an infinite nuraber of rattlesnakes and other venoraous reptiles. After the Missouri, which in the Far West is what the Mississippi is in the North, the finest rivers are the Kan sas, the Platte, the Yellowstone and the Sweetwater. The THE PLATTE HAS ITS GOOD POINTS. I35I first of these falls into the Missouri and receives the waters of a great number of tributary streams. Of these tribu taries we counted as many as eighteen before we reached the Platte. Hence we may infer that the country abounds in springs, and that the soil is compact and covered with verdure. The reverse raay be said of the neighborhood of the Platte, where springs and verdure are seldom sefen. Even on the bluffs that run parallel to its banks the waters that fall from the clouds upon a sandy and porous soil run down into the valleys. But the prairies that receive the over flowing waters of the river are extremely fertile and ap pear beautiful in spring, being enaraeled with a great va riety of flowers. Here I cannot but speak again of the Platte, although I have described it in the account of my first journey. The sight of the river itself is still more pleasing; though in spite of all its beauties, it has, like the most remarkable of its bluffs, received a vulgar name. This proceeds from the custora which some travelers have of applying to objects the names of things with which they are well acquainted. They have called it Platte or Flat river, on account of its width and shallowness : the former often exending 6,000 feet, whilst its depth is but from three to five feet, and sometimes less. This want of proportion destroys its utility. Canoes cannot be used to ascend it, and if barges soraetiraes come down from Fort Laramie to the mouth, it is because they are so constructed that they may be converted into sledges and pushed on by the hands of raen. The author of As toria has properly defined it " the most magnificent and most useless of rivers." Putting, its defects aside, nothing can be more pleasing than the perspective which it presents to the eye ; though besides the prairie flowers and the ranun culus, its banks bear only the eglantine and the wild vine; for on account of the fires made in the autumn the lofty vegetation is entirely confined to the islands that stud its surface. These islands are so numerous that they have the appearance of a labyrinth of groves floating on the waters. 1352 AN EARLY NEBRASKA TORNADO, Their extraordinary position gives an air of youth and beauty to the whole scene. If to this be added the undula tions of the river, the waving of the verdure, the alterna tions of light and shade, the succession of these islands varying in form and beauty, and the purity of the atmos phere, some idea raay be formed of the pleasing sensations which the traveler experiences on beholding a scene that seeras to have started into existence fresh from the hands of the Creator, Fine weather is comraon in this teraperate climate. How ever, it happens sometimes, though but seldom, that the clouds floating with great rapidity open currents of air so violent as suddenly to chill the atmosphere and produce the most destructive hail storms. I have seen some hail stones of the size of a turkey's egg.^ It is dangerous to be abroad during these storms. A Cheyenne Indian was lately struck by a hailstone and remained senseless for an hour. Once as the storm was raging near us, we witnessed a sub lime sight. A spiral abyss seemed to be suddenly formed in the air. The clouds followed each other into it with such velocity that they attracted all objects around them, whilst such clouds as were too large and too far distant to feel its influence turned in an opposite direction. The noise we heard in the air was like that of a tempest. On behold ing the conflict we fancied that all the winds had been let loose from the four points of the compass. It is very probable that if it had approached much nearer, the whole caravan would have raade an ascension into the clouds;, but the Power that confines the sea to its boundaries and has said : " Hitherto shalt thou come," etc, watched over our preservation. The spiral column moved majestically toward the North, and alighted on the surface of the Platte. Then another scene was exhibited to our view. The waters, agitated by its powerful action, began to spin round with a ^ This is one of the first and best descriptions of the cyclonic sum mer storms which have become so dreaded in the central prairies since that country has become filled with population. THE PILGRIMS SING AN ODE. I353 frightful noise, all the river boiled, and, more quickly than a rainstorm falls from the clouds, it rose toward the whirl in the form of an iraraense cornucopia whose undulous movements were like the action of a serpent endeavoring to raise itself to the sky. The column appeared to measure a mile in height; and such was the violence of the winds which came down in a perpendicular direction that in the twinkling of an eye the trees were torn and uprooted and their boughs scattered in every direction. But what is vio lent does not last. After a few minutes the frightful visita tion ceased. The column, not being able to sustain the weight at its base, was dissolved almost as quickly as it had been forraed. Soon after the sun reappeared; all was calm and we pursued our journey. In proportion as we proceeded toward the sources of this wonderful river, the shades of vegetation became raore gloomy and the brows of the mountains more cragged. Everything seemed to wear the aspect, not of decay, but of age, or rather of venerable antiquity. Our joy was ecstatic as we sung the following ode composed for the occasion : Non, ce n'est plus une ombre vaine, Mes yeux ont vu, j'en suis certain, Dans I'azur d'un brillant lointain, Des Monts Rocheux la haute chaine, &c. Oh no! — It is no shadow vain, That greets 'my sight — yon lofty chain That pierces the ethereal blue; The Rocky Mounts appear in view. I've seen the spotless, virgin snow, Glist'ning like gems upon their brow — And o'er yon giant peak now streams The golden light of day's first beams. How from their ice-clad summits, steep. The living waters joyous leap! And gently on thro' vallies gay. Sweeter than honey wend their way. 1354 TH£ REST OF THE ODE, It is because on yon proud height, The standard floats of life and light: It is, that there th' Omnipotent Hath pitched his everlasting tent — The God whose love no tongue can tell, Among his children deigns to dwell. All hail! majestic Rock — the home Where many a wand'rer yet shall come; Where God himself, from his own heart. Shall health and peace and joy impart. Sorrow adieu — farewell to fear, — The sweet- voiced hymn of peace I hear; Its tone hath touched the red-man's soul: Lo! o'er his dark breast tear-drops roll. O! soon the silent wilderness Shall echo with his song of praise; And infant lips, from morn till ev'n. Shall chant thy love — great King of Heav'n, Father and God! how far above All human thought thy wondrous love! How strange the path by which thy hand Would lead the tribes of this bleak land. From darkness, crime and misery. To live and reign in bliss with thee! CHAPTER II, The Three Forks — The cataracts — Tributary streams — Gate of the Mountains — Resources of the valley — Scenery — Purity of the air — Bad Lands — Fate of the Elkhorn Steeple — Headquarters of the wolves — Some beaver stCTies — Lake Eustis and the wonders of the Yellowstone — Geological curiosities — A disastrous gorge — Wanity — ¦ Some tribal traditions — Prairie fires. ^3 S I have been speaking of rivers I shall give you a ^^ short geographical description of the Missouri, which I am inclined to call my river, as I have so often ascended and descended it during the last four years, traveled along its banks and crossed alraost all its tributaries frora the raouth of the Yellowstone to the place where the mighty river mingles its turbid stream with that of the peaceful Mississippi. I have drunk the limpid waters of its sources and the muddy waters at its mouth, distant more than 3,000 miles from each other. The prodigious length of its course, the wildness and impetuosity of its current, have induced the Sioux to call it " the Furious." Whenever I crossed this magnificent river the sensations which I ex perienced bordered on the sublime, and my imagination transported me through the world of prairies which it fer tilizes to the colossal mountains whence it issues. It is in the heart of the Rocky Mountains that the Mis souri takes its rise, together with many other raagnificent streams; such as the Father of Waters, into whose bosom it flows after having fertilized its own borders to a vast extent; the Arkansas and the Red river, both, like itself, majestic tributaries; the Columbia, which becomes the reser voir of all the waters of the Oregon territory, and the Rio 1 Part of Letter IV, Letters and Sketches, p. 85. [1355] 1356 THREE FORKS TO GREAT FALLS, Colorado which, after winding its course through a gloomy and rocky desert, invigorates the most beautiful part of California. The Missouri, properly so called, is formed by three considerable forks that unite their waters at the entrance of one of the passes of the Rocky Mountains, The north [west] fork is called the Jefferson, the south [east], the Gallatin, and the one between them the Madison. Each one of these is subdivided into several small arms that flow from the mountains and almost mingle their sources with those of the upper forks of the Columbia on the west ern side. I have drunk of both, distant only about fifty yards from each other; for the same field of snow supplies both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. After the junction of the forks, the Missouri for a con siderable distance becomes an impetuous and foaming tor rent. Below this its bed is more spacious and its course more tranquil. Steep rocks of a black hue jut and rise above its current to a height of nearly 1,000 feet. The mountains along whose base it runs are shaded by pines, cedars, fir and turpentine trees. Some of these mountains present a solitary aspect and wear a look of unspeakable grandeur. The river, for the space of seventeen miles, is seen raging and foaming, rolling from cataract to cataract with a roaring noise that is repeated by echoes from all the neighboring cliffs. The first of these cataracts measures ninety-eight feet in height ; the second, nineteen ; the third, forty-seven, and the fourth, twenty-six.* Below the falls, 2 The series of cataracts and rapids here referred to commence at the city of Great Falls and continue about twenty miles; but the larger falls, of which there are four, Rainbow, Black Eagle, the Great Falls, and another, are included within a distance of ten miles. The total fall is upward of 500 feet. The lower, or Great Fall, is about eighty-four feet high, and may be properly called the Niagara of the West. The magnificent water power afforded by these cataracts is being extensively used for industrial purposes. MARIAS TO YELLOWSTONE, 1 357 the beautiful river of Marias,' flowing from the north [west] adds its peaceful waters to those of the rapid and impetuous stream. Still lower, but on the opposite side, the Dearborn* and the Fancy disembogue themselves through mouths respectively 150 yards in width. After many other rivers of considerable width and ex tent, we come to the Yellowstone,^ the largest but one of all the tributaries of the Missouri, resembling the latter in many respects. This river too has its source in the Rocky Mountains and is 850 yards wide at its mouth. Its bed is spacious and its current rapid; its length is about 1,600 [750] miles, and at its confluence with the Missouri it appears to be the larger of the two. For a considerable distance above the mouth its banks are well wooded and its bottom lands are extensive and very fertile. The grey and 3 Maria's river (Lewis and Clark), named for a lady acquaintance of one of these officers. Modern usage drops the apostrophe and makes it simply Marias. The stream is a large one, and drains an extensive tract of country. Lewis and Clark were in doubt, when they came to it, whether it was not the main stream. * Error. The Dearborn river joins the Missouri from the west above the Great Falls. ^ The Yellowstone river is one of the most noted rivers on the con tinent. It is not only a great river, in itself worthy of high comparison, but it comes from a region which in recent times has acquired celebrity throughout the world as that singular place where nature seems to be still engaged in finishing the work of manufacturing a planet. The river comes mainly in its upper course from the Yellowstone National Park. It flows through the beautiful Yellowstone lake, over the Great Falls, and through the Grand caiion, and exhibits within a distance of fifty miles a combination of grandeur and beauty unparalleled upon any other river in the world. From its source it flows north 150 miles to the great bend of the Yellowstone, where it turns abruptly to the east. It then flows nearly due east for about 100 miles, when it turns gradually to the north and finally flows northeast to its junction with the Missouri. It receives no tributaries worthy of mention from the north, but many important ones from the other side. Of these the principal one is the Big Horn river, which, in its upper course, bears the name of Wind river. 1358 LARGE FAMILY OF RIVERS black bear, the bighorn, the antelope, the buffalo, the stag and the common deer frequent these regions, whilst coal and iron mine^ are in such abundance that for fifty years they might supply fuel and materials to a countless num ber of steam engines. After the Missouri has received the Yellowstone river, its bottom lands become more extensive; yet as little or no wood is found on them, it may be long before attempts will be made to cultivate them. The White Earth river coming frora the north, and the Goose river frora the south, are not very considerable. The width of each at the raouth is 300 yards. The Little Missouri, though shallow, has a rapid current, and has its sources in the south, as also thei following streams : Cane [Knife] river, near the village of the Mandans; Cannon Ball river; Winnipenhu [Grand], Sewarzena [Moreau] and Cheyenne river, which is navi gable for 400 miles, a rapid and muddy stream, 400 yards wide at the mouth; Teton river and White river (so called on account of the color of its waters) which are unwhole some. The latter is navigable for 300 miles, has a rapid current, and measures about 300 yards at its mouth.® The lands which it waters in the upper country are barren, and abound in animal and vegetable petrifactions, whilst its banks have everywhere a fantastic appearance. Next and on the same side we meet the Ponca and Run ning Water [Niobrara] river, the latter of which has a fine current. Medicine [Creek] and Jacques rivers [James river] enter the Missouri from the opposite side ; the latter is also a rendezvous of the beaver hunters and runs nearly parallel with the Missouri. After the White Stone [?] and the Vermillion, we find the Big Sioux river, on which is found the fine red stone quarry explored by the Indians to make their calumets. The Floyd and the Rodger [Boyer], the Maringoin, the Nishnabotna and the Nadowa fall into the Missouri on the northern side. * All of these distances are vastly overstated. Navigation refers only to canoes and bullboats. AND OTHERS NOT SPECIFIED. 1 359 Its chief tributary, the Platte, rises like itself in the Rocky Mountains and extends its course nearly 2,000 [1,000] railes. Though it is a mile wide at the mouth yet it is shallow, as its narae indicates, and is not navigable.'^ The two Nemahas flow from the south and the Little Platte frora the north. The Kansas, on the south side, is about 1,000 railes long and is navigable to a great distance. Grand river frora the north is a wide, deep and navigable stream. The two Charitons are found on the same side, while the Osage and Gasconade rivers enter from the south. The former is an important stream, navigable for 600 [300] miles, and has its sources near the waters of the Ar kansas ; whilst the latter, though navigable only for sixty- six miles, is equally important, on account of the fine large pine forests that supply St, Louis and the adjacent country with lumber, I shall say nothing of the many other less remarkable tributaries of the Missouri, such as the Blue, the Mine, the Bonne Femme, the Manitou, the Muddy, the Loutre, the Cedar, the Buffalo, the St. Johns, the Wood river, the Charette, Bonhomrae, Ferarae Osage, etc. The length of the Missouri, from its sources to the Yellowstone, is 880 [1,100 miles from Three Forks] miles, from the Yellow stone to its junction with the Mississippi, is about 2,200 [1,760]. I subjoin a list of the forks of its great tributaries which I have seen and crossed.^ "^ It was navigated in canoes and bullboats, like the Cheyenne, White, and other streams which Father De Smet classes as navigable. 8 Father De Smet's list of rivers is omitted here and the subjoined list given instead. Following is a table of the more important streams of the great Missouri Basin, so often referred to by Father De Smet: Mississippi-Missouri river, length, 4,221 miles. Missouri proper, length from Red Rock lake, source of the Jeffer son, 2,945 tniles ; from the Three Forks, 2,547 miles. 1360 CATALOG OF TRIBUTARIES, I left off my narrative on Sugar river, [the Sweetwater] otherwise called Eau Sucree ; I must interrupt it to listen to the good tidings that are brought frora the mountains, I remain. Rev, and Dear Father, Your Dutiful Son in Christ, Tributaries. (Distances are above mouth of Missouri.) Gasconade river, enters Missouri from south (right bank), no miles. Osage river, a large and important stream, enters from the south (right), 142 miles. Grand river (Missouri), from the north (left bank), 261 miles. Kansas river is a large stream entering from the west (right) at the site of Kansas City, where the Missouri makes its great bend to the east, 390 miles. Formed by the junction of the Smoky Hill and Republican rivers. Has been navigated by steam to this point. Larg est tributary, the Big Blue, from the north. Little Platte, from the east (left), 411 miles. Nadowa river, from the east (left), 499 miles. Big Nemah, from the west (right), 529 miles. Nishnabotna river, from the east (left), 588 miles. Platte river, largest tributary of the Missouri, except the Yellow stone, enters from west (right), 635 miles. Formed by junction of North and South Forks in western Nebraska. Principal tributaries of North Fork are Laramie river from south (right) and Sweetwater from the north (left) bank. The principal tributaries of the Platte below the junction of the North and South Forks are the Loup Fork and the Elkhorn rivers. Big Sioux, from the east (left), 810 miles. Vermillion, from the east (left), 854 miles. James, from the east (left), 888 miles. Niobrara, from the west (right), 941 miles. White, from the west (right), 1,055 miles. Bad river (formerly called Teton or Little Missouri), from the west (right), 1,172 miles. Cheyenne, from the west (right), 1,222 miles. A large stream formed by two forks which completely encircle the Black Hills of Dakota. Little Cheyenne, from the east (left), 1,268 miles. Moreau, from the west (right), 1,293 miles. Grand, from the west (right), 1,316 miles. Cannon Ball, from the west (right), 1,399 miles. A TABLE OF RIVER DISTANCES. I361 Extract from a Letter dated St. Louis, January i, 1847. I shall close this letter by giving you a geographical de scription of the great river which I have just descended, ac- corapanied by only two men, for about 2,500 miles. Heart, from the west (right), 1,446 miles. Big Knife, from the south (right), 1,514 miles. Little Missouri, from the south (right), 1,582 miles. Rises in the northern foothills of the Black Hills. White Earth, from the north (left), 1,646 miles. Yellowstone, largest tributary of the Missouri, from the south .(left), 1,760 miles. (See earlier note.) Principal tributaries, all from the south : Powder, Tongue, Rosebud, Big Horn, Pryor, Clark. Of these the Big Horn is the largest, and bears the name Wind river in the upper third of its course. Its principal tributaries are the Shoshone (old Stinkingwater) and Grey Bull, from the west or left bank. Poplar, from the north (left), 1,858 miles. Milk, from the north (left), 1,937 miles. Muscleshell, from the south (right), 2,076 miles. Judith, from the south (right), 2,196 miles. Marias, from the west (left), 2,263 miles. See earlier note. Sun, from the west (left), 2,334 miles. Three forks of the Missouri, 2,547 miles. The Gallatin is the eastern most and the Jefferson the westernmost, the Madison lying between the two. The Jefferson is the largest, its two principal tributaries being the Big Hole and Beaverhead rivers. The following table of distances is from one of Father De Smet's unpublished letters. " Here are the supposed correct distances from St. Louis to the mouth of the Yellowstone river. I give the principal names known in that country, but hitherto unheard of outside." [The second column of distances is from the surveys of the Missouri River Commission.] Table of Distances. From St. Louis to Bellevue, above the the mouth of ^^^^^- '""®^- Nebraska or Platte river 800 646 Hence to old Council Bluffs 85 36 Hence to Little Sioux river 75 40 Hence to Black Bird's Hill and tomb 45 31 Hence to Big Sioux river 56 59 Hence to Fort Vermillion 60 49 Hence to Jaques or James river 50 27 86 1362 BEGINS AT THE SOURCES AGAIN The Missouri rises in the Rocky Mountains between the forty-third and forty-ninth degrees of north latitude." The springs which give birth to several of its branches, are not a mile away from a large number of springs whose waters flow to the Columbia. I have stood upon snow banks that contribute innumerable torrents to both rivers. One runs west into the Pacific Ocean ; and the other, which merits the title of the largest river of North America, by the abun dance of its waters and the length of its course, but which was not explored until after the Mississippi and thence carae to be considered its tributary, has its mouth twenty miles above St. Louis. The Missouri takes that name after the junction of three branches, the Jefferson, the Gallatin and the Madison. The place called the Gate of the Moun tains is 441 [160] miles above the highest point of naviga tion on the Missouri and presents a magnificent and pic- Miles. Miles. Hence to Niobrara or L'Eau qui Court river 80 54 Hence to the Grand Tower 40 .... Hence to White river 100 113 Hence to Medicine river 80 71 Hence to Fort Pierre 65 48 From Fort Pierre to Cheyenne river 60 48 Hence to Moreau river g6 71 Hence to Cannonball river 130 106 Hence to Heart river 50 47 Hence to Fort Clark (among the Aricaras and Man dans) 65 60 Hence to Fort Berthold or Grosventres 65 52 Hence to White Earth river 90 89 Hence to the mouth of the Yellowstone, river, three miles below Fort Union .__ 150 114 2,322 1,760 The number of bends of the Missouri river, from Bellevue to the mouth of the Yellowstone river, is 256. In the same distance the number of its islands is 42. s Red Rock lake, the ultimate source, is about in latitude 48° 30'. The junction of the Three Forks, where the name Missouri first ap plies, is about 46°. AND DISCUSSES NAVIGATION. 1 363 turesque view. For a distance of six miles the rocks rise perpendicularly from the bed of the river to the height of 1,200 feet. Here and there in crevices are bunches of ver dure, firs, cedars and lone pine trees, watered by an infinite number of springs, which channel the sides of the rock. Here the river is compressed within a bed 150 yards wide; and only one place, a few feet square, is visible where a man might stand between the cliff and the water. From the entry of the Rocky Mountains to the Great Falls is no miles; to the junction with the Mississippi it is 2,685 miles. The Great Falls of the Missouri are not as sublime as those of the Niagara, but they may hold second place for grandeur among all the waterfalls of this vast continent. In a distance of sixteen and a half railes the river descends 357 feet by a succession of rapids and falls. The greatest fall has a perpendicular height of eighty-seven feet, the sec ond is nineteen, the third forty-seven and the fourth twenty- six; a succession of rapids and cascades of frora three to eighteen feet fill the distance from one to another. The upper course of the river to the mouth of the Yellowstone [Marias] lies toward the north. The Yellowstone, which has a raouth 800 yards in width, and which at that point seems as large as the main river, is probably the greatest of the tributaries of the Missouri. It comes in from the southwest, 1,216 [about 750] miles from its source and 1,880 miles from its junction with the Mississippi. Steamboats corae thus far up and could go higher in both branches. The length of the Missouri river frora its source to its raouth is therefore 3,096 railes; add 1,353 rniles frora its mouth to the Gulf of Mexico and you have a total of 4,449 railes. It is without doubt the longest river of the globe. Frora the gulf to the Great Falls there is no insurraount- able obstacle to its navigation. Its principal tributaries are navigable for distances of 100 to 800 railes. The alluvial soil along this river and its tributaries is fertile, but nar row and subject to occasional, overflows. Leaving these 1364 IMMENSITY OF MISSISSIPPI VALLEY, bottom lands you enter the immense high plains covered with verdure and inclosed here and there with thickets and forests. The upper region traversed by the Missouri is sterile and arid. The current of the river is rapid and turbid in the greater part of its course. It is a half-mile wide at its mouth; at several other places it is much wider. Al though all the waters of this immense region and of so many great tributaries unite in the Missouri, it is notwith standing so low at certain seasons of the year that steam boats can scarcely find passage. This lack of water is at tributed to the dry, open country traversed by the river and to its great evaporation. The resources which the Mississippi and Missouri may offer to commerce are incalculable and have not yet been sufficiently appreciated. For thousands of years these mag nificent American rivers rolled their waters peacefully through the vast forests, fertile prairies and most pictur esque mountains, reflecting the varied scenes of a capricious nature; they were then unknown save to the wandering savage of the West or to the animals that fed upon their banks. At last they drew the attention of civilized man and now they have begun to satisfy both their needs and their desires. All parts of this vast region, watered by the main stream and its tributaries, may be penetrated by steam boats, and but for a small district in the plains of the upper Missouri, there is not a single point more than 100 miles from a navigable branch. One boat may take its cargo at Lake Chautauqua in the State of New York, another in the interior of Virginia, a third can start from Rice lake, at the source of the Mississippi, and a fourth, laden with the furs of the Rocky Mountains, can descend the Missouri 2,800 miles, and all meet at the 'mouth of the Ohio, to go down together to the ocean. Reader, you live in Europe, where the commerce of every seaport, where all interior branches of navigation have been carried to the last perfection; where superior inteUigences consume themselves in vain for lack of a career in which A FORECAST OF POPULATION, 1 365 they can develop themselves. But here, on these vast rami fications of navigable streams, an endless, limitless field for commercial speculation is opened. The first steamboat arrived at St. Louis in 1819.'' To-day the Mississippi, Missouri, Ohio and their tributaries are covered with steamboats and craft of all kinds, and pop ulous cities have arisen on their banks. There are now in the centre of the American continent ports and coraraercial cities whereof each one by itself already does more business than many of the most celebrated ports of the Old World. The valley of the Mississippi, one of the most astonish ing marvels of nature, contains at least 1,300,000 square miles. It may some day possess a population almost as great as that of all Europe and supply all its needs abun dantly. If its population becomes as dense as that of Eng land, which already counts 207 souls to the square mile, the number of its inhabitants will amount to 179,400,000. But should it come to equal that of Belgium, as the fertility of the soil seems to warrant, its area will maintain a population of 200,000,000. What a subject for reflection to the philan thropist and the Christian! I have the honor to be, etc. Let us descend the Missouri together." You shall ad mire with me the length of its course, its breadth, its marvels and its dangers. Upon that portion of its banks already occupied by civilization, some 2,653 miles, you shall admire the proud cities and flourishing villages, whose grandeur and importance grow day by day; the splendid 10 They have since ascended the Missouri to the foot of the Great Falls, and the Yellowstone to a point a little above the mouth of the Big Horn. 11 From the French of the third Belgian edition, vol. V. Dated " On board the Yellowstone, June 4, 1864, in the Cheyenne river country, 1,515 miles from the mouth of the Missouri." 1366 REMINISCENCES OF THE HEIGHTS, chateaus, the dark ancient forests, the smiling manors, the model farms, the prairies specked with flowers, supporting innumerable herds and scattering abundance and happiness as far as its entrance into the Gulf of Mexico, ^^ Often have I rested by banks of perpetual snow, or beside little lakes and marshes, a fall or noisy cascade or some fair and abundant fountain, whose tutelary spirit (to adopt an Indian idea) seeras to invite the solitary passer to rest in the cool by its swift crystal flow. I have spread my bear skin and my buffalo robe, which forraed my bed, and passed many nights in profound slumber, after the fatigues of a long day's travel, now at the sources of the Athabasca, Saskatchewan or Missouri, now at those of the Columbia, which in some cases are not more than a mile asunder, and then depart to opposite points of the compass, the one to the east and the other to the west, toward the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. In that elevated region, the atmosphere is of remarkable purity ; by night, in the blue-black firmament, the moon and stars shine with wonderful brilliancy. Here, as everywhere, one cannot but repeat the beautiful words of Thomas a Kempis : " Lord, all that we have in the order of nature, it is thou that hast given it ; and thy benefactions reraind us without ceasing of thy goodness and tenderness, and the immense liberality thou usest toward us, thou from whom Cometh every good. Speak, Lord, for thy servant heareth. Give rae understanding, that I raay know thy testimonies." Excepting possibly the great Amazon river in South America, the Missouri is considered the longest stream on the globe. Its sources are in the Rocky Mountains, at 45" north latitude and longitude no'' 30' west. Its three upper branches are the Jefferson, Madison and Gallatin, Thou sands of rainers are flocking thither at the present time, 12 Father De Smet, like every other person who knows the Missouri river intimately, considered it a river of great natural beauty, and came to form an ardent attachment for it and for its unique character among the rivers of the globe. BEGINS ONCE MORE AT THE FORKS, I367 drawn by the attraction of the gold hidden in the bosom of that remote land. There are three cities with names there already, namely, Bannock, Virginia and Gallatin. All that country, for an immense distance east of the mountains, has recently been admitted into the Union under the name of Montana Territory, The sources of the Three Forks, as well as those of the Yellowstone, Dearborn and Sun rivers, are interlaced with the sources of several tributaries of the two great branches of the Colurabia, Lewis' and Clark's Forks, known by their primitive names of Snake and Flathead rivers, Frora the sources of the Three Forks to the Great Falls of the Missouri, about 500 railes, the waters incline north ward; then, taking an east-north-east direction, they reach their northernmost extension at the mouth of White Earth river, at 48° 20' north latitude. Thence the general course of the river is southeast, until its junction with the Missis sippi, in latitude 38° 50' north and longitude 90° 10' west. At about 411 railes from its first sources, the Missouri passes through the Gate of the Mountains, where it is com pressed into a width of 150 yards. The floods rush turaul- tuously and swiftly along for a distance of six miles; the cliffs rise perpendicularly frora the water's surface to a height of 1,200 feet, with a sort of jutting edge, where a raan can hardly stand erect. This channel, scoured out by the impetuosity of the water, resembles the remarkable Dalles of the Colurabia, The Missouri proper commences at the confluence of the Three Forks, which come down from the mountains at al most equal distances and parallel with one another. Between the Gate of the Mountains and the Great Falls (no miles) the first tributaries of the Missouri are the Prickly Pear, Beaver, Camas, Dearborn and Sun rivers, with some other smaller streams or mountain torrents. The two last-named rivers are the raost considerable. The Great Falls of the Missouri are in the raidst of a desolate and sterile region; they give it an aspect of gran- 1368 DESCRIPTION OF THE GREAT FALLS, deur, beauty and interest well worthy of remark. They cora- mence nine railes below the mouth of Sun river, and reach for sixteen miles, in very rapid currents, falls and cascades, making a total descent of 380 feet. The last fall is the highest ; the water drops a height of eighty- four feet. The river is 480 yards in width. One-half falls in a mass over a perpendicular rock, and the other half rolls its tumultuous water through a series of cataracts, falls and capricious cascades, into the basin at the foot. From an elevated point which coraraands the river frora the north, there is a ravish ing view. The water, the rocks slightly covered with a veil of foam, the lofty cliffs which frame it all, that succession of rapid currents, the deafening noise of the fall and the cataract, spreading into the distance, the coluran of vapor rising and presenting to the sun all the vivid colors of the rainbow, make a scene very beautiful and very wild at the sarae time. The Falls of the Missouri are among the most important in North America; they are 3,100 miles above its raouth. Leaving the falls, we pass the Belt river and some minor water-courses, and arrive at Fort Benton, the highest post of the St. Louis Fur Corapany, 3,000 miles above the mouth of the river, a distance which has been reached by steamboats, under the conduct of the excellent and brave Captain Charles Chouteau. Thanks to the discovery of gold in the Territories of Idaho and Montana, Benton has become a great centre of commerce east of the Rocky Mountains. Farther down, the Missouri receives the pretty Marias river, with its pure water, and the little rivers called Island Thirty-four, Sandy and Eagle. Here we are at the en trance of the " Bad Lands " of the Missouri, or rather let us say of its marvels. At a distance of some fifty miles, we pass within sight of some scenes as fantastic as they are wonderful ; nature seems to have produced them for her diversion, and to have exerted herself to vary them. There are evident indications that this passage through this sterile volcanic region has CURIOSITIES OF BAD LANDS, 1 369 been formed by the might of water. To give an accurate idea of it would require an able pen and a most active imag ination. I will try, however, to express something of it. Like all the other travelers, I was in continual transports of wonder and astonishment, from one end to the other, under the influence of this varied succession of picturesque scenes and views, which are at the same tirae curious and sublime, with the beautiful and grand often mingling with the fan tastic. They pass before us as if a magnificent panorama were presenting thera successively and rapidly to our eyes. The bust of Washington appears at a distance — a large nuraber of the passengers observe it siraultaneously and call out the name with one voice. There is no mistake about it ; we watch and wonder. As the boat proceeds and changes posi tion, this same bust presents a fine lady in crinoline and then a shapeless mass. The great man par excellence of the last century here finds himself joined, in one and the same block and on the same pedestal, with one of the queerest types of present fashion. Once engaged in this astonishing passage, one cannot prevent his imagination from seeing a great many things in it. On both banks of the river you think you see ruined cities; especially remarkable is a succession of blackened walls, several hundred feet in height. It seems incredible that stich regular workmanship should not be artificial pro ductions; but at the same tirae one is corapelled to admit that an architect capable of executing them would surely rank as a great genius in his profession. One of these re markable walls, called the " Hole in the Wall," has a round opening representing an ancient cathedral window. In an other place appears a porte cochere, wide, lofty and of regu lar shape, cut frora the living rock; it is like the entrance to an iraraense monumental cemetery, with its statues, busts, obelisks, columns, vases and urns, tables, entablatures, mortuary frescoes and monuments of every sort, which, in their structure and arrangement, appear like the antique and venerable remains of the remotest ages. We pass by the 1370 AN EVER-RENEWED INTEREST, foot of the Citadel, an immense solitary rock. Another represents a steamboat. There follows a succession of an cient manors and convents, castles, cathedrals, bastions and forts, surmounted by towers and parapets and surrounded by sentinels motionless at their posts. On either side cedars and pines, singly and in groups, spread their verdure and add to the beauty of the land scape. They clasp the rocks by the little crevices which afford them a few handfuls of earth and dust, and they crown the sides and tops of the hills. In the absence of any other wood, we are obliged to cut them down to feed the greedy furnaces of the boat; and soon the vandal axe will have destroyed one of the fairest ornaments of this marvel of the Missouri. From time to time one is agreeably surprised to see, rising in the distance, the blue tips of the Little Rocky and Bear Paw Mountains; the latter are the higher. They are two isolated chains in the high plains of this region. Lovers of the wonders of nature and those who travel with scientific objects in view will not neglect to come and visit a place so remarkable and which promises such rich discoveries from the point of view of geology. The Bad Lands of the Missouri will some day take their place among the great wonders of the American hemisphere. In my various voyages, this remarkable spot has always charmed and interested me in the highest degree. One cannot view this succession of scenes without an ever-grow ing curiosity and pleasure always new. The hand of man has not touched as yet these astonishing works of nature; they are still intact, subject only to the atmospheric changes of this elevated region, under which, however, they doubt less change continually in aspect and in form.^* Passing out from the Bad Lands, the river Judith comes to pay its tribute to the Missouri. It is followed by three little nameless creeks, then by the two Calf rivers. Island 13 See footnote, p. 852. LONELY PLAINS AND PRAIRIES, 1 37 1 Fifty-eight river, the Upper Rocky, the Cadotte, the Big Dry Fork, Miik river, the Porcupine, the Harvey, the Little Dry, the Wolf Point, the Poplar, the Elkhorn, the Upper Muddy, the Mackinaw and the Little Muddy, The princi pal ones are the Upper Muddy and Milk river. The Judith is 2,768 and the Yellowstone 2,136 miles from the mouth of the Missouri. They are 632 miles apart. Singular formations of great isolated rocks are seen, on high hills, soraething in the style of those in the Bad Lands. The principal one is the monument of Napoleon the Great, called by this name, and no doubt saluted, by some vieux grognard of the grande armee, to recall to all travelers in this desert the memory of the grand homme. The alluvial portions of the river present interesting views of another sort. They are a series of plains, stretch ing to the limit of vision, often interspersed with volcanic lands, producing nothing but cactus, Adam's needle (the proper narae of which is yucca), with their pretty flowers, and sagebrush. Then it will be a series of pleasing prairies, which in spring are adorned with a rich carpet of verdure spangled with flowers. These plains and prairies are, for the raost part, covered with forests of poplars, but these, greater or smaller, are lined, along the river, with vast wil lows. There is little or no underbrush in these forests, the trees stand at some distance frora one another, and though irregular, seem as if planted by some ingenious forester. One notes especially wide and straight avenues, and smil ing paths cutting them almost at right angles. Herds of buffalo, deer and antelope, and here and there sundry grizzly bears, the terror of the raountaineers, animate in their turn these silent forests. One would think himself in great parks and lovely parterres, such as one raay see in the domain of some opulent European nobleman. Only the old donjon-keep seems lacking. Seventeen railes below the Judith you come to what is called the Monumental Elkhorn Prairie. So far as I know, it is the only place in all this part of the country which has 1372 FATE OF THE ELKHORN STEEPLE. possessed a true monument, erected by the hands of the Indians, A tower had been constructed here, composed exclusively of elks' antlers; it was of remarkable height. Its base formed a great square. After every campaign against the elk and deer, so abundant in this region, the Indians would come here to deposit religiously the trophies of their hunt, that is, the skulls of the animals surmounted by their antlers. The most ancient of the Assiniboins (it is on their land) could not give me any account, either of the epoch nor of the circumstances which gave rise to the erection of this unique monument. The cupidity of a modern vandal has caused the demolition of this strange savage structure, which* had resisted all the tempests, wind storms, stern winters and other vagaries of the atmosphere in this strange region. He took his capture to St. Louis and sold it, and there the antlers were transformed into handles for knives, forks and daggers. Wolf Point, thirty- one miles lower down, deserves a small notice. Here is the rendezvous par excellence of the wolves, those animals so cruel, but timid and cowardly at sight of man. They will attack together a calf or a cow, which they have managed to separate from the herd; they watch for buffalo to cross the river and try to climb steep and difficult places ; the poor animals get mired in the mud, and often entire herds perish. The wolves throw theraselves on them and devour them. On these occasions, these rivals of the jackals and hyenas express their joy in their own raanner, in a kind of concert of terrifying bowlings, as if a pandemonium had been convoked. I have several times found m)rself close to these carnivorous animals in cases of this kind. To prevent being kept awake all night, we had to fire a few shots from tirae to time, which reduced the frightened wolves to silence. Frora the Yellowstone to Benton, there are rapid currents at intervals, of which there are ten that are difficult to as cend and very dangerous to go down. The whole power of the engines and all the strength of the capstan have to BEAVER ALL ALONG THE RIVER, 1 373 be applied, and the entire crew are put on the tow-rope to overcome the current. If in descending a point of rock or a loose boulder be touched, the shock is generally fatal to the boat. The hull is crushed in, despite the strongest fram ing. These rapids generally bear the name of some individ ual or other who has lost his life there, or undergone shipwreck. In all this stretch of 632 miles, and as far up as the sources of the Missouri, the whole length of the bank dis plays the ravages of numerous beavers. These industrious animals, of whom so many wonderful things are related, seem to be more plentiful there now than ever; for the number of hunters has fallen off with the decadence of beaver hats, which have given way before head-coverings of silk. The presence of beavers is detected by the destruc tion which they make in the forests and among the willows along the bank. It is surprising to see the nuraber of trees, large and small, which they have cut down. With their teeth these skillful animals cut branches with tender bark into four-foot lengths; these furnish their favorite food. and they transport them into their lairs. On the Missouri, they dig holes in the cut or vertical banks of the river, raak- ing them large enough to lodge a number of thera. The interior resembles a cave, and can contain a whole family, that is, the old beaver and his old companion, and usually four or five little ones. I have been assured that sometimes they contrive different apartments, larger or smaller. All the inside is lined with willow branches, picked clean and interwoven. The entrance to the cavity is obstructed care fully with a mass of twigs, mingled and heavily plastered with clay. They raake a coraraunication or passage-way which ends beneath the outer water, and also leave an open ing overhead to adrait air. I have spoken of their ways and works in other letters. I will therefore not touch upon them here, but I should like to tell a story which I had from one of my traveling com panions, a trustworthy man, an intrepid hunter, and who 1374 STORIES OF THE INTELLIGENCE saw these things himself. Happening one day to be above a beaver lodge, he heard the young ones crying, very much like the wailing of babies. The old beaver it appeared did not like so much noise, and to restore silence in his young family he took them one at a tirae and thrust them again and again under the water until they stopped. The observer was amazed. Another time, a large beaver was caught in a trap. In such circumstances, they do not hesitate to bite off the foot that is caught, to release themselves. Wishing to be sure of his prey, our hunter had so arranged that the beaver could easily pull up the stake and drag off the trap to gether with its chain. The floating wood would serve as a buoy. He soon saw the beaver struggling near the bank ; he pulled his prey out of the water and took up a club to knock the creature on the head. The poor animal instinct ively put up his paw to protect his head, uttering lamenta tions and cries like a human being. The hunter raade a motion several times as if to strike him; each tirae, thes beaver put up his paw to save himself and repeated his com plaints. The man told me that if he could have got the animal out of the trap, he would have let hira go; but he dreaded, and with reason, the beast's terrible teeth, whicb cut like a carpenter's chisel. Beaver are still found all along the river, even in places quite near the new settlements of the whites ; but in the end they disappear frora such places. The beaver's instinct makes him seek the most retired spots, and it is on the least frequented forks of the rivers that their lodges are found in the greatest numbers. There they are more regularly built than on the banks of the great river. The streams are dammed with strong and high dikes, which malce fine ponds for the animals. Instinct moreover warns thera of spring droughts and of scarcity of rain and snow in the raountains ; then they redouble their activity and triple their dikes, to make sure of having a sufficient quantity of water for sumraer. This is, to the Indians and people acquainted AND CUSTOMS OF THE BEAVER. 1 375 with the country, a certain sign that the river will be low in the season of high water, and they govern theraselves accordingly. To conclude, I raust tell you that in spring, toward the period when the female is carrying her young, she takes sole possession of the lodge. The father, with his young progeny, amuses himself elsewhere and spends the pleasant season around the neighborhood ; notwithstanding, he takes care to provide his companion with victuals in abundance. There is a belief commonly held among the hunters, that just as araong raen there exist indolent persons who arouse scorn rather than pity, so there are lazy individuals found among the beavers; they refuse to do any work, go and come, eat and live at the expense of the others; but when one of these loafers comes and tries to mingle with the rest, he is received with their teeth; his presence seems to in spire the others with horror, and he bears the marks of it in his slit ears and his long tail lacerated and torn by bites. Repulsed everywhere, miserable and wretched, he passes his sad days apart, in some heap of driftwood or abandoned lodge. The Indians, as well as the hunters, regard the beaver as the animal who most nearly approaches man, as they say, " by his sense, his instinct, his manners and customs." The Absharokays or Crows treat them as brothers, because, as they claim, the beavers gave birth to their first father and mother. The region of the upper Missouri as far as the Yellow stone, of which I have been telling you, contains more than one interesting reminder of another nature. It is the coun try ranged by the Assiniboins, the Crows, the Blackfeet, and at the present day by the Sioux, and whither the tribes from west of the raountains, the Flatheads, Pend d'Oreilles, Kootenais, Nez Perces, Bannocks and Snakes come down for the buffalo hunt ; where all contend for the possession of those animals, and which has been the theatre of an infinity of battles, encounters and combats. It is the land to which iJ76 A BUFFALO HUNT AS A SPECTACLE, Tchatka was accustomed to lead his people, and whither so many other renowned chiefs have conducted their tribes, whether to war or to the chase, A multitude of tolerably high hills, and of plateaus and prairies bear the names of some brave or other who distinguished himself near thera. It is here especially that the greatest and finest hunting, of buffalo, elk and deer, is found. I have often taken part in these, either riding with them in the chase or simply as a peaceable onlooker, Soraetiraes, motionless at my post, seated on my horse or on the flowery sward of the plain or on some height, I would watch the vast and variegated scene and the admirable skill of the Indians. I would share in spirit in all their ardor and their movements, as if I had really been one of the actors. There is no raore charming nor more interesting view. The desert, whose profound solitude is usually silent and monotonous, is now transformed into a vast arena, full of life and move ment; the air resounds in all directions with the bellowings of the furious buffalo, flying with all their might to escape destruction. The ground trembles under the dull sound of their formidable footfalls. It is a chorus of cries of hunters animating their ardent coursers to attack the fat beast they have selected; it is sudden, confused and irregular gun shots ; it is columns and clouds of dust raised by the buffalo and the horsemen. Taken as a whole, it is a spectacle of the highest interest to hira who witnesses it, and it recurs afterward to the memory with always fresh pleasure. I was once present at a great hunt in which upward of 600 buffalo were laid low by about 200 Flathead and Pend d'Oreille hunters. In the same spot I saw all the Indians in the camp prostrated in adoration, with eyes and hands raised toward heaven, offering their thanksgivings to the divine and paternal providence of the Lord, who had granted them, in his goodness, so abundant a chase. In this kind of hunt, or carnage, the entire animal is used up, even to the bones; these are cracked and broken open for soup. The marrow of the bones is the finest part of THE YELLOWSTONE PARK REGION, I377 the whole animal and the most agreeable to the taste. The meat is cut into long strips and dried in the sun. When the chase is over, one horse easily carries the spoils of an entire buffalo. The savages break camp, and go away full of joy. They follow and practice literally the axiom, " sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof." But I am wandering too far away from ray subject, it appears ; let us return to the river and its tributaries. We had reached the mouth of the Yellowstone, the most im portant river of the Upper Missouri. It has a width of 800 j"ards at its entry. Among its numerous tributaries are the Big Horn and Tongue and Powder rivers. Its course is nearly parallel with that of the Missouri. It issues from Lake Eustis,^* and its principal sources are in the springs and snowbanks upon the icy summits of the Rocky Moun tains and Black Hills, one of their numerous chains. I suppose the Yellowstone to be navigable for steamboats for about 1,000 miles above its mouth. Abundant gold mines have lately been discovered at its sources, and thousands of whites are flocking in to-day, who will have to measure their strength with that of the Crow and Snake Indians, hitherto peaceful possessors of those mountains. The Yellowstone and its upper forks have also their won ders, or one might say their Bad Lands. A volcanic region is especially noteworthy, where underground noises are often to be heard at a great distance. Jets of steam, like the exhaust of steamboats, are seen issuing from the soil, and there are mounds and broken hills in the strangest of shapes, which appear to have been thrown up by volcanic forces. The Indians pass these places in profound silence and with superstitious dread. They regard them as " the abode of underground spirits, always at war with one another, and continually at the anvil forging their weapons." They 1* Yellowstone lake was long known by this name. It was given for William Eustis, secretary of war, after the existence of the lake was made known by John Colter. 87 1378 SOME BIG MEDICINE PLACES, never pass without leaving some offering on a conspicuous point of that mysterious region. In the same section I have observed, in the side of a steep cliff, a wide and high opening, supposed to be very deep. The unfortunate savage points it out to you as " the place of coming-out and going-in of underground spirits," and to render them propitious, at each visit he throws in one or more arrows with his hand. Whoever hits the mark is sure of the success of the expedition, whereas he who misses the hole altogether will usually turn around and go horae, abandoning for the time being the project that he had in view, whether it were of war or the chase. At the foot of the rock a heap of arrows or offerings that went wrong may be seen. No Indian, however much he might be in need of thera, would dare to touch one of these objects, much less to take them away ; they are sacred. Between the Yellowstone (2,136 miles) and the Big Cheyenne, 1,515 miles from the mouth of the Missouri, there are eighteen creeks, which reach far into the interior on both sides, north and southwest. It is 400 yards wide at its mouth, coraes from the Black Hills and traverses a rolling region of beautiful plains and prairies. The great ammonite that I sent to Father Catoir, professor at St. Ignatius Institute, came from this region. In this distance of 621 miles the principal rivers are the Big Muddy and White Earth, coming from the north; the Little Missouri, the Heart, the Cannonball, Upper Grand river and the stream called Moreau, coming from the south. Upon Heart river, on one of its lofty hills, overlooking the whole region, there is a rather remarkable geological curiosity. At the top of the hill there is a large and wide stone, flat and level as a table, called Record Rock. It bears distinct imprints of feet of men and children, tracks of bears, bisons, elk, deer and antelope, all mingled in con fusion. The tradition of the Aricaras, that is, the " primi tive people," speaks of a deluge that covered all the country ; and this rock is the place where men and animals, forget- A MISSOURI GORGE AND FLOOD, 1 379 ting all animosity and fear, met in the face of the comraon danger; there it was that all found safety at the tirae of the flood, separating afterward, when the waters sub sided, each going his way and resuming his former habits or work, to increase and multiply and replenish the desolate earth. Cannonball river is interesting by reason of its numerous stone " balls," of all sizes, which gave it its name. These balls abound on the high rocky hills near and above the raouth of the river, for a distance of several miles. This is another curiosity for the geologist to explain. There are tiny balls as big as marbles, and others gradually larger until you come to masses weighing 200 pounds. All along the river are a great number of eminences bearing names which recall Indian memories. Such is the Horsehead Butte. A rise, both sudden and unexpected, in the Yellowstone and other rivers coming frora the south, once lifted the ice in the Missouri and broke it up into large, strong and com pact cakes. This rise took place on a dark night in the winter. These ice-blocks made a formidable dike in a bend of the river just below a large Indian camp. The dike built itself up on either bank as far as the bluffs which terminate the low alluvial bottoms. This vast gorge, swollen more and more by the ice and the immense increase of water, rose to a height of forty feet, until at last the formidable dam across the Missouri yielded to the pressure of the water, which rushed through impetuously and irre sistibly. A large number of Indians perished in the flood, with all their horses and other property. The whole affair took only a few hours. The furious waters of the night had carried the ice out of sight, and before sunrise the river had resumed its ordinary even flow. The valley where this frightful and deplorable catastrophe took place resounded for a long time with the weeping of the poor unhappy sav ages who had escaped the wreck; and long afterward it bore the marks of their mourning. 1380 THE RENOWNED CHIEF WANITY. Some buttes reserable in shape animals or birds, and bear their names ; among others. Eagle's Head and Calf Buttes. The Wanity Butte brings to mind that renowned chief, who was always fortunate in the chase and in war. He had raised a young crow, his pet, or " familiar tutelary spirit," according to the Indian calendar. The bird flew with the chief on all his expeditions, and to it Wanity attributed all his success and good fortune. The crow went and came according to the chief's pleasure, and was often absent a day or two at a time. When he came back his master watched him closely, and interpreted to his companions the cries and motions of his faithful little favorite. " The bird had discovered buffalo, or he had seen enemies." When they broke carap the crow took flight, and the band followed the direction which he indicated. Such fables are common among the savages, and they tell thera as actual facts. Opposite Old Fort Clark, on the Missouri, appears in the distance White Bear Butte. It bears the name of an Ari- cara chief, who was accustomed to go thither, to fast and torture hiraself. He went there every year, at certain periods, or before setting out on the warpath or the chase. He would spend whole days there without taking the slightest nourishment. He would cut off a joint of his fingers, or passing leather thongs through wide incisions cut to the quick under his shoulder-blades or in his breast, he would attach one or two buffalo heads and drag thera a mile or so to the summit of the hill. On one of these occa sions he was surprised and slain by the enemy. An entire tribe will sometimes give itself up to the prac tice of the most austere macerations. There are few men advanced in age who have not raade the sacrifice of several joints of their fingers and covered all the fleshy parts of their bodies with scars. The two fingers needful to draw the bow and fire the gun are always spared. These poor wretches are still plunged in the maddest and most superstitious errors of paganism. Still, at every op portunity, they implore the aid of the Black-robe, to come ORIGIN OF CERTAIN TRIBES, 1 38 1 and instruct their children in the true way of salvation, I hope that this happiness will soon be granted thera, and that they will become good children of God, worthy of the early days of Christianity. I shall be among them in a few days, and I propose to reraain sorae time to attend to their instruction. At 220 miles from the raouth of the Yellowstone, on a high hill near a large and beautiful plateau, are the three united tribes, the Aricaras of whom I have been telling you, the Grosventres or Hidatsa, " People of the Willows," and Mandans. There are about 3,000 of thera, living all to gether in a single large perraanent village. Their houses are covered with earth, and resemble mounds twenty-five to thirty feet in height. Light enters and smoke passes out through a round opening left in the top. Although these tribes speak different languages, and though each has its own lands, the comraon and continual danger from the formidable Sioux, who carry on a war of extermination against them, has compelled them to join their forces to assurae the defensive and protect themselves mutually. The tribe of the Grosventres and that of the Crows have the same origin. A trifle, a senseless dispute over the car cass of an old buffalo, separated the carap into two portions. The Crows won the land of the Yellowstone and the Black Hills, The Mandans and Winnebagoes, to judge from the re semblance of their two languages, seem to come of the same stock. However, neither of them has any tradition on the subject. The Aricaras and Pawnees speak the same dialect, and parted in consequence of a simple refusal by the chief of one of the tribes, insolently expressed to that of the other. The latter had asked for some laces to mend his shoes and clothing; upon receiving a refusal, he went away, and ad vanced with his people very far into the desert. The two branches of the nation have never met since. 1382 SCRAP OF ASSINIBOIN HISTORY, The Assiniboins are direct descendants of the Sioux tribes. What separated them was this. The famous buf falo was in this case also the apple of discord. In a cora mon chase, a great number of the animals were brought down. The old men, women and children were butchering them. Each family has its own mark and can recognize the arrows of its hunters. Two women, the wives of two chiefs, claimed the same animal and quarreled over the mark on the arrow, each one asserting that it was her hus band's mark. As usual, from words they came to acts, and to hair, which they pulled out, and then to fists and teeth and woundings. One " fixed " the other in the most barba rous raanner. In the meantime the two chiefs arrived to gether on the field of battle. At the sight of the disar ranged and lacerated features of their dear spouses, each one took the side of his own. Here they too go, into the stupid quarrel. The conflict soon became general and wound up in a fight to the finish, which left dead and wounded. The Assiniboin band had the worst of it, and parted forever from the others. Since that day they never meet save as mortal enemies. From Cheyenne river to Fort Randall, 320 miles, the physiognomy of the country, on both sides of the Missouri, is so monotonous as in the end to depress the observer and weary the sight. Wooded points are rare, and with the exception of some bottom lands, the land is generally dry and arid. Large herds of buffalo, antelope and deer are seen from time to time at a great distance, and seem then to animate the sad desert and lend it a fleeting interest. Take away the animals, and for days and weeks together there is nothing to be seen but an endless succession of plateaus, bluffs and hills, which all resemble one another and seem drawn up like a long file of brothers and sisters, representing the same types. I have traversed these regions in all seasons of the year. I have seen the prairies in spring, covered with a rich and supple mantle of verdure, waving and bowing under every THE GRASS, THE FIRES AND THE SNOW. 1 383 breeze; they were enameled with flowers, as varied in form as in color. But at every bend or twist of the river, you see the sarae prairie, the same bluffs and the same hills, following the same type and in the same positions, and in spite of their uniformity, they are beautiful yet. I have admired them after the burning sumraer sun had trans formed the vivacious green into a greyish yellow and the supple plant had become hard, dry and crisp, waiting only for the match of a careless hunter or a spark from the lightning to become the prey of flames. These aspects are disagreeable to the sight. I have seen this country on fire by day. The sun seemed to intensify the flame, and thick clouds of smoke rose above hills, uplands and bottoms, until the light of day was obscured. By night the spectacle is very different. The column of smoke becomes a column of fire ; you see fire in all its forms. Here, it is solitary bra- siers and, snaky flames winding from branch to branch; there, it is a moving wall, a long train of fire, which lengthens, advances and devours everything upon its line of passage. I have passed these places again after the fire had devastated thera, leaving not the slightest trace of ver dure. These plateaus, these prairies, these bluffs and hills then offered the image of a land of desolation, which it makes one sick to look at. Finally the snows of winter come and cover with a mournful shroud all this strange nature. This is its last and gloomiest transformation; it gives us an idea of the instability of all worldly things. From the Cheyenne to the mouth of the Platte it is 800 miles, in which distance there are twenty-three tributaries. The principal ones are — White river on the south, 300 yards wide at its mouth; the Niobrara {L'Eau qui Court) on the south; James river {Riviere d lacques) on the north, and the Big Sioux on the north, no yards wide at the mouth. The Platte, on the south, is 600 yards wide at its mouth and enters the Missouri 716 (635) miles above the raouth of the latter stream. Its bed is composed of moving sand 1384 SUNDRY TRIBUTARY STREAMS which extends far above the junction of the two forks. Its channel is wide but very shallow. It waters an immense region and serves as its sewer, ^^ The Platte has its several sources in the Black Hills, the Wind River Mountains and other ranges north and south. It flows through a great valley whose tributaries connect with those leading into Colorado, the valley of Great Salt Lake and to the Rocky Mountains, From its valley one may pass by connecting routes to Utah, Nevada, California, Ore gon and the Territories of Washington, Idaho and Mon tana. The valley of the Platte has becorae the Golden Gate, or the great highway which leads to the gold mines of those several countries. The White river flows out of the Black Hills and drains the Bad Lands of Dakota of which I have given a descrip tion in a former letter, L'Eau qui Court, or the Niobrara, owes its name to its rapid current. It also rises in the Black Hills and finds its ultimate source in an elevated peak called Rawhide Butte, toward the plains of Fort Laramie. It flows through a sterile, sandy region called the Sand Hills. Jaraes river, Dakota, and the Big Sioux rise in groups of lakes on the high prairies, in the region of Devils' Lake, latitude 48° north. ^^ The most remarkable butte along that portion of the Mis souri now under consideration is Blackbird Hill, named IB This is perhaps the only instance in literature where the two op posite functions so often ascribed to streams are predicated in the same sentence. It is practically a paradox to state, as is constantly done in all descriptive writing, that streams water their valleys. Their function is exactly the reverse, — that of drainage. Only on their im mediate shores is any watering effect apparent, except in low, flat lands, generally near the outlets, where they frequently convert extensive areas into swamps. 16 This is true only of the James river. The Big Sioux rises much farther south, near the sources of Minnesota river and Red River of the North. OF THE LOWER MISSOURI. I385 for a great Omaha chief, and situated on the west bank of the river 177 [118] miles above the mouth of the Platte. ^'^ From the Platte to the mouth of the Missouri the dis tance is 716 miles. In this distance there are thirty-two tributaries, the chief of which are : the Nishnabotna on the north; the two Nemahas on the south; the Nodowa on the north ; the Kansas on the south, 235 yards wide at its mouth and navigable by stearaboats several hundred miles ; Grand river on the north, 190 yards wide ; the Osage on the south, 400 yards wide and navigable for a great distance ; and the Moreau and Gasconade flowing from nearly the sarae country. I shall add a last little stream, the Coldwater, a little above the mouth of the Missouri. It waters the clear ing grounds of St. Stanislas near Florissant where stands the Jesuit Noviciate of Missouri. The tributaries of the Missouri which have been given names number 123. The number of islands between the mouth and Fort Benton is 219. From the mouth of the Missouri to the source of its three forks is 3,700 [2,945] miles. Add to this 1,253 [i)276] miles, the distance from the mouth of the Gulf of Mexico and you have a length of 4,953 [4,221] miles. From the mouth of the Mississippi to Fort Benton, 4,253 [3,561] railes, steara navigation is practicable. The current of the Missouri is rapid and its water a muddy yellow. Throughout its whole course, in spring and autumn, the principal obstacles to navigation are its sandbars and snags against which the boats strike and are either wrecked or suffer great damage. Other difficulties are the rapids above the mouth of the Yellowstone, which are insurmountable in low water. There are neither falls nor rocks in this entire part of its course. The raagnificent prairies formed by the alluvial lands 1'' Sketch of Blackbird omitted because already given in greater de tail in other parts ,of this work. 1386 THE QUESTION OF PRIORITY that border the river are generally of extraordinary fertility and comprise what is called the Missouri basin. In the matter of fertility, there should be excluded a large portion of the upper watershed of the river in the neighborhood of the mountains; the land is sterile and arid, subject to long droughts and frequent frosts which destroy the harvests. The total extent of the territory watered [drained] by the Missouri is [considerably more than] 500,000 square miles. The task which I imposed upon myself is accomplished, I dare not flatter myself that I have succeeded well, or have done credit to my subject; but I have at least the assurance of having tried to give you an idea of our great American river and its attributes by the aid of my recollections and impressions. There would remain, indeed, much raore to say, if one wished to enter into all the details ; but that would exceed the liraits of a letter already very long. I will say in closing that at the mouth of the Platte, one is now in the midst of modern civilization and progress. One never ceases to adraire, along the banks of the river, the succession of beautiful towns and villages, forges and mills, and manufactories of all kinds. Everything is in a state of transformation. There are new manors by the side of ancient forests, vast fields and smiling prairies, with innumerable herds of domestic cattle. Such is the aspect of things even to the Gulf of Mexico. If it were possible to have a trial between the Mississippi and the Missouri to determine which has the right to be called the great and long river (le grand et long Heuve), it seems to me that the Missouri would win. At the place where the two rivers unite, it is larger [smaller] than its rival. The Missouri is the longer; it exceeds in length [the Mississippi above the mouth of the Missouri] by more than 2,000 [1,669] miles; it is the Missouri which furnishes the greater [smaller] abundance of water ; in short it is this river that gives the Mississippi its current, its color, its salubrious and beneficial waters and all its other character- AND A MORE MODERN VIEW. I387 istics. The name has remained with the Mississippi, be cause at the tirae of its discovery by Marquette the Mis souri was, so to speak, unknown,^® 1* Father De Smet here advances a very common argument that the name of the lower Mississippi should have been carried to the Mis souri because it is the longer stream. From this very general view there is excellent reason to dissent. It is not clearly a logical rule that the name of a stream should follow the longest tributary. The size and importance of a river may be more rationally gauged by the volume of flow than by the length of channel. From this point of view the Ohio has the strongest claim to the name and the Missouri the weakest, for the latter stream dis charges less water than either of the others. But there are other rea sons why neither the length of the stream nor the volume of flow should in this case control, and why the name as it actually applies is exactly right. The Mississippi river flows nearly south through its entire course ; it is obviously the trunk stream and all others merely laterals. It divides the country into two great sections, the east and the west. On one side the streams come mainly from the Alleghenies, on the other side from the Rockies. The Mississippi is the great central water-course which gathers up the drainage from both sides and con veys it to the sea. Political divisions are based upon it. For almost its entire length it is a boundary between States. The phrases ¦" trans-Mississippi " and " beyond the Mississippi," so well established in our national literature, would have no meaning if either of the great tributaries carried the name. In fact the naming of this stream is one of those striking instances where the common sense of the multitude is better than the wisdom of the wise, for no doubt if the matter had ¦been left to some learned geographer or society of savants the name would have been placed on the Missouri river to the perpetual incon venience of future generations. — American Fur Trade of the Far West. CHAPTER III, FAUNA AND FLORA.^ Father Point's nosegay — Flowers — Shrubs — Trees — Birds — Rep tiles — Insects — Fishes — Quadrupeds. St. Ignatius' River, Sept. lo, 1841, Reverend and Dear Father Provincial:^ ?IT INFORMED your Reverence that flowers are found in " abundance near the rock called the Chimney. Whilst we were there P'ather Point culled one flower of every kind. and made a fine nosegay in honor of the Sacred Heart of Jesus on the day of the Feast. As we proceeded toward the Black Hills, the flowers diminished in number, but now and then we found some which we had not seen anywhere else. I have taken notice of many of thera for the amuse ment of amateurs. Among such as are double, the most common and those that are chiefly characteristic by the soil on which they grow, are to be found on this side of the Platte river. The rose-colored Lupine flourishes in the plain contiguous to the Platte as far as the Chimney. Be yond it grows a medicinal plant, bearing a yellow flower with five petals, called the prairie epinette; and still farther on, where the soil is extremely barren, are seen three kinds of the prickl3'^-pear ; the flowers of these are beautiful, and known among botanists by the name of Cactus americana. They have already been naturalized in the flower gardens of Europe. The colors of the handsomest roses are less pure and lively than the carnation of this beautiful flower. The ex terior of the chalice is adorned with all the shades of red ^Letters and Sketches, p. no. Addressed in French edition to M. Rollier, avocat a Opdorp, pres de Termonde. [1388] FLOWERS OF THE PLAINS, 1 389 and green. The petals are evasated like those of the lily. It is better adapted than the rose to serve as an emblem of the vain pleasures of this nether world, for the thorns that surround it are more numerous, and it alraost touches the ground. Among the simples, the most elegant is the blue bell of our gardens, which, however, far surpasses it by the beauty of its form and the nicety of its shades, varying from white to the deepest azure. Adam's needle, found only on the most barren elevation, is the finest of all pyra- raidals. About the raiddle of its stem, which is generally about three feet high, begins a pyramid of flowers, grow ing close to each other, highly shaded with red and dimin ishing in size as they approach the summit, which termi nates in a point. Its foot is protected by a number of hard, oblong, ribbed and sharp leaves, which have given it the name of Adam's needle. The root is commonly of the thickness of a man's arm, its color white and its fornt resembles that of the carrot. The Indians eat it occasion ally and the Mexicans use it to manufacture soap. There are many other varieties of flowers, some of them very remarkable and rare even in America, which are still without a name even among travelers. To one of the prin cipal, distinguished by having its bronzed leaves disposed in such a manner as to imitate the capital of a Corinthian column, we have given the name of Corinthian. Another, a kind of straw color, by the form of its stem and its divi sion into twelve branches, brought to our minds the famous dream of the Patriarch Joseph, and we have called it the Josephine. A third, the handsomest of all the daisies {Reines Marguerites) that I have ever seen, having a yel low disk with black and red shades and seven or eight rays, any of which would form a fine flower, has been named by us the Dominical, not only because it appeared like the Lady and Mistress of all the flowers around, but also be cause we discovered it on Sunday. Shrubs. The shrubs that bear fruit are few. The raost common are the currant and gooseberry of various 1390 BERRIES, FLAX, THE QUAKING ASP. sizes and colors, the hawthorn, the raspberry, the wild cherry and the service-berry. Currants, white, red, black and yellow, grow everywhere along the mountains. The best are found on the plains, where they are exposed to be ripened by the sun. I have classed the wild cherry and the service-berry among shrubs, because they are generally of low growth and do not deserve the name of trees. The service-berry (cornier) grows on a real shrub, and is a delicious fruit, called by travelers the mountain pear, though it bears no resemblance to the pear, its size being that of a common cherry. The mountain cherry differs much from the European cherry. The fruit hangs in clusters around the branches, and is smaller than the wild cherry, whilst its taste and color and the form of the leaves are nearly the same as those of the latter. Cherries and service-berries constitute a great portion of the Indian's food whilst the season lasts, and they are dried by them to serve for food in the winter. I may perhaps mention other fruits, plants and roots, that grow spontaneously in differ ent parts of the Far West, and are used as food by the Indians for want of better sustenance. Flax is very common in the valleys between the moun tains. What must appear singular is that the root of it is so fruitful that it will produce new stems for a number of years. We examined one of thera, and found attached to it about thirty stems, which had sprung from it in former years. Hemp is also found, but in very small quantities. Trees. There are but few species of trees in the regions which we lately passed. Scarcely any forests are found [except] on the banks of rivers, for which I have already assigned a reason. On the plains we find bushes, and now and then the willow, the alder, the wax tree, the cotton- wood or white poplar, whose bark is used for horse feed in winter, and the aspen, whose leaves are always trembling. Some Canadians have conceived a very superstitious idea of this tree. They say that of its wood the cross was made on which our Savior was nailed, and that since the tirae BIRDS, REPTILES AND INSECTS. I39L of the crucifixion, its leaves have riot ceased tn tremble 1 The only lofty trees found on the raountains are the pine and the cedar, which is either white or red. The latter is chiefly used for furniture, as it is the raost resistible wood of the West. There are several species of the pine : the Norwegian, the resinous, the white and the elastic, so-called because the Indians use it to make bows. So great is the violence of the winds in the vicinity of the Black Hills that the cottonwood, which is almost the only tree that grows there, displays the most fantastic shapes. I have seen sorae whose branches had been so vio lently twisted that they becarae incorporated with the trunk, and after this, grew in such strange forms and directions that at a distance it was impossible to distinguish what part of the tree was immediately connected with the roots. Birds. I shall say but little of the birds. They are various in form, color and size; from the pelican and the swan to the wren and the humraing-bird. Muratori, speak ing of the last, compares him to the nightingale and is as tonished that such shrill and loud sounds should proceed from so small a body. The celebrated author must have been mistaken, unless the humming-bird of South Araerica be different frora that of the Rocky Mountains. The latter does not sing, but raakes a humming noise with his wings as he flies from flower to flower. Reptiles. With respect to reptiles, they have been fre quently described and I mention them only to give thanks to God by whose Providence we have been delivered from all such as are venomous, chiefly from the rattlesnake. Neither men nor beasts belonging to our caravan have suf fered from them, though they were so numerous in places that our wagoners killed as many as twelve in one day with their whips. Insects abound in these regions. The ant has often attracted the notice of naturalists. Sorae have seeraed to doubt whether the wheat stored up by this little insect serves for winter provisions or for the construction of its 1392 OBSERVATIONS ON ANTS AND MOSQUITOES, dwelling. No wheat grows in this country. Yet the ant piles up small pebbles of the size and form of grains of wheat in hills a foot high and three or four in diameter, which inclines me to believe that they use both for the con struction of their cells. In either case the paternal provi dence of God is manifest. They display as much fore sight in providing dwellings that are out of the reach of humidity and inundations as in laying up food for future wants. It is probable, however, that here they find food of another kind, and this might easily be ascertained. Fleas are not known in the mountains, but there is another sort of vermin nearly allied to it, to which I have alluded in one of ray former letters. -And what shall I say of mosquitoes ? I have suffered so much frora thera, that I cannot leave them unnoticed. In the middle of the day they do not trouble the traveler, if he keep aloof frora the shade and walk in the burning sun. But at nightfall they light on hira, and hang on him till morning, like leeches sucking his blood. There is no de fense against their darts, but to hide under a buffalo skin, or wrap one's self up in some stuff which they cannot pierce, and run the risk of being smothered. — When green or rotten wood can be procured, they may be driven away by smoke, but in such case the traveler hiraself is smoked, and in spite of all he can do his eyes are filled with tears. As soon as the smoke ceases, they return to the charge till other wood is provided and thrown on the fire, so that the trav eler's sleep is frequently interrupted, which proves very annoying after the fatigue of a troublesome journey. Another species of insects, called frappe d' abord or buffalo gnats, are found by myriads in the desert, and are not less troublesome than the mosquito. They are so small that they are scarcely perceptible, and light on any part of the body that is uncovered, penetrating even into the eyes, ears and nostrils. To guard against them the traveler, even in the warmest weather, wears gloves, ties a handkerchief over his forehead, neck and ears, and smokes a short pipe or a A VERY GOOD CATCH OF CARP. 1 393 cigar to drive them from his eyes and nostrils. The fire fly is a harmless insect. When they are seen in great num bers, darting their phosphoric light through the darkness, it is a sure sign that rain is at hand. The light which they emit is very brilliant, and appears as if it proceeded from wandering meteors. It is a favorite amusement with the Indians to catch these insects, and after rubbing the phos phoric matter over their faces, to walk around the camp, for the ptirpose of frightening children and exciting mirth. Fishes. As our hunters were scarcely ever disappointed in finding game, we have seldom had recourse to fishing, except on fast days ; hence our acquaintance with the finny race is rather limited. On some occasions, when provisions were becoming scarce, the line had to supply the place of the gun. The fish which we generally caught were the mullet, two kinds of trout, and a species of carps. Once, while we lay encamped on the banks of Snake river, I caught more than 100 of these carps in the space of an hour. The anchovy, the sturgeon and the salmon abound in the rivers of the Oregon Territory. There are six species of salmon., They come up the rivers toward the end of April and after spawning, never return ; but the young ones go down to the sea in September, and it is supposed that they re-enter the rivers the fourth year after they have left them. Quadrupeds. The beaver seems to have chosen this eountry for his own. Every one knows how they work and what use they make of their teeth and tail. What we were told by the trappers is probably unknown to many. When they are about constructing a dam they examine all the trees on the bank and choose the one that is most bent over the water on the side where they want to erect their fort. If they find no tree of this kind they repair to another place, or patiently wait till a violent wind gives the requi site inclination to some of the trees. Sorae of the Indian tribes believe that the beavers are a degraded race of huraan beings, whose vices and criraes liave induced the Great Spirit to punish them by changing 1394 valuable furs and the liquor traffic, them into their present form ; and they think, after the lapse of a nuraber of years, their punishment will cease, and they will be restored to their original shape. They even believe that these animals use a kind of language to communicate their thoughts to each other, to consult, deliberate, pass sentence on delinquents, etc. The trappers assured us that such beavers as are unwill ing to work are unanimously proscribed and exiled from the republic, and that they are obliged to seek sorae abandoned hole, at a distance from the rest, where they spend the winter in a state of starvation. These are easily caught, but their skin is far inferior to that of the more industrious neighbors, whose foresight and perseverance have procured them abundant provisions and a shelter against the sever ity of the winter season. The flesh of the beaver is fat and savory. The feet are deemed the most dainty parts. The tail affords a substitute for butter. The skin is sold for nine or ten dollars' worth of provisions or merchandise, the value of which does not amount to a single silver dollar. A gill of whisky, which has not cost the trader more than three or four cents, is sometimes sold for three or four dollars, though the chief virtue which it possesses is to kill the body and soul of the buyer. We need not wonder then when we see wholesale dealers in this poisonous article realize large fortunes in a very short time, and that the re tailers, of whom some received as much as $800 per annum, often present a raost miserable appearance before the year expires. The Hudson Bay Company does not belong to this class of traders. By them the sale of all sorts of liquors is strictly forbidden. The otter is an inhabitant of the mountain rivers. His color is dark brown or black. Like the beaver, he is in cessantly pursued by the hunters, and the nuraber of both these animals is yearly diminishing. Among other am phibious animals we find two species of the frog. One does not differ from the European, but the other offers scarcely any resemblance. It has a tail and horns and is only found OPOSSUMS, BADGERS AND PRAIRIE DOGS. 1 395 on the most arid soil. By some of our travelers it was called the salamander. Opossums are common here. They are generally found near marshes and ponds that abound in small crawfish, of which they are extremely fond. To catch them he places hiraself on the bank, and lets his long hairless tail hang down in the water. The crawfish are allured by the bait, and as soon as they put their claws to it, the opossura throws thera up, seizes thera sideways between his teeth, and carries them to some distance from the water, where he greedily but cautiously devours his prey. The badger inhabits the whole extent of the desert; he is seldom seen, as he retires to his hole at the least approach of danger. Some naturalists refer this animal to the gen uine [genus?] Ursus. Its size is that of the dormouse; its color silver grey; its paws are short, and its strength pro digious. A Canadian having seized one as he entered the hole, he required the assistance of another man to pull him out. The prairie dog, in shape, color and agility, more re sembles the squirrel than the animal from which it has taken its name. They live together in separate lodges, to the number of several thousands. The earth which they throw up to construct their lodges, forms a kind of slope which prevents the rain from entering the holes. At the approach of man, this little animal runs into his lodge, ut tering a piercing cry, which puts the whole tribe on thfeir guard. After some minutes, the boldest show a part of their heads, as if to spy the eneray, and this is the moment which the hunter chooses to kill them. The Indians in formed us that they sometimes issue in a body, apparently to hold a council, and that wisdora presides over their de liberations. They adrait to their dwellings the bird of Minerva, the striped squirrel and the rattlesnake, and it is impossible to determine what is the cause of this wonder ful sympathy. It is said too that they live only on the dew and grass roots, a remark founded upon the position of 1396 A FATHER CAPTURES A PET, their village, which is always found where the ground is waterless and barren. The polecat, or Mephitis Americana, is a beautifully speckled aniraal. When pursued, it raises its tail and dis charges a large quantity of fluid, which nature has intended for its defense. It repeats these discharges in proportion as the pursuer comes near it. So strong is the fetid odor of this liquid that neither man nor beast can bear it. It happened once near St. Louis that Reverend Father Van Quickenborne saw two of these cats. He took them for young cubs, and pleased with the discovery, he alighted from his horse, and wished to catch thera. He approached thera cautiously, and was just ready to put his large hat over one of them, when all at once a discharge was made that covered him all over. It was impossible to go near him for several days — all around him was infected. His clothes could no longer be used, and the poor raan, though rather late, resolved never again to attempt to catch young bears ! The cabri (antelope) resembles the deer in form and size; the antlers are smaller and have but two branches; the color of the animal reserables that of the stag; the eyes are large and piercing; and its gait in the wilderness is a kind of elegant gallop. Sometimes the antelope stops short and rears his head to observe his pursuer; this is the most favorable moment to kill him. When startled or shot at and missed, he darts forward with incredible swiftness, but curiosity induces him to halt and look back. The hunter tries to amuse his curiosity, by holding up and wav ing some bright-colored object : the animal approaches, and curiosity becomes the cause of his death. The flesh is wholesome and easily digested, but it is used only where deer and buffalo meat are wanting. The antelope hunt is a favorite sport with the Indians. They choose a spot of ground from fifty to eighty feet square, and inclose it with posts and boughs, leaving a small opening or entrance, two or three feet wide, Frora this entrance they construct HOW THEY ATE BUFFALO MEAT, 1 397 two wings or hedges, which they extend for several miles,-— After this they form a large semicircle, and drive the ante lopes before them till they enter between the hedges, where they press so hard upon thera that they force them into the square inclosure, in which they kill them with clubs. I have been told that the number of antelopes thus driven into the inclosure, often amounts to more than 200. The meat of the buffalo cow is the raost wholesome and the most common in the West. It may be called the daily bread of the traveler, for he never loses his relish for it. It is more easily procured than any other, and it is good throughout. Though some prefer the tongue, others the hump, or some other favorite piece, all the parts are excel lent food. To preserve the meat it is cut in slices, thin enough to be dried in the sun ; sometimes a kind of hash is made of it, and this is mixed with the marrow taken from the largest bones. This kind of mixture is called bull or cheese, and is generally served up and eaten raw, but when boiled or baked it is of more easy digestion, and has a raore savory taste to a civilized palate. The form and size of the buffalo are sufficiently known. It is a gregarious animal, and is seldom seen alone. Sev eral hundreds^ herd together, the males on one side, the females on the other, except at a certain season of the year. In the month of June we saw an iraraense herd of thera on the Platte. The chase of this animal is very interesting. The hunters are well mounted; at a given signal, they fall upon the herd, which is soon dispersed ; each one chooses his own animal, for he who slays the first is looked upon as the king of the chase — his aim raust be sure and mortal, for the animal, when wounded, becomes furious, turns upon his hunter and pursues hira in his turn. We once witnessed a scene of this kind. A young Araerican had the irapru- dence to swira over a river and pursue a wounded buffalo with no other weapon but his knife. The aniraal turned 2 Fr. thousands. 1398 DEXTERITY OF JOHN GRAY. back upon him, and had it not been for the young English man, whom I have already mentioned, his imprudence would have cost him his life. The greatest feat of a hunter is to drive the wounded animal to any place he thinks proper. We had a hunter named John Gray, reputed one of the best marksmen of the mountains; he had frequently given proofs of extraordinary courage and dexterity, es pecially when on one occasion he dared to attack five bears at once. Wishing to give us another sample of his valor, he drove an enormous buffalo he had wounded, into the midst of the caravan. The aniraal had stood about fifty shots, and been pierced by more than twenty balls ; three times he had fallen, but fury increasing his strength, he had risen after each fall, and with his horns threatened all who dared to approach him. At last the hunter took a decisive aim, and the buffalo fell to rise no more. " Approaching " is carried on without horses. An ex perienced hunter, though on foot, may attack a whole herd of buffaloes ; but he must be skillful and cautious. He must approach them against the wind, for fear of starting the game, for so acute is the scent of the buffalo that he smells his enemy at a very considerable distance. Next, he must approach them as much as possible without being seen or su.spected. If he cannot avoid being seen, he draws a skin over his head, or a kind of hood, surmounted by a pair of horns, and thus deceives the herd. When within gunshot, he must hide himself behind a bank or any other object. There he waits till he can take sure aira. The report of the gun and the noise made by the fall of the wounded buffalo, astound, but do not drive away the rest. In the meantime the hunter reloads his gun and shoots again, re peating the manoeuvre till five or six, and sometime more buffaloes have fallen, before he finds it necessary to abandon his place of concealment. The Indians say that the buffaloes live together as the bees, under the direction of a queen, and that when the queen is wounded, all the others surround and deplore her. HOW THE WOLVES LIVE AND MOVE, I399 If this were the case, the hunter who had the good fortune to kill the queen, would have fine sport in dispatching the rest. After death, the animal is dressed, that is, he is stripped of his robe, quartered and divided; the best pieces are chosen and carried off by the hunter, who, when the chase has been successful, is sometimes satisfied with the tongue alone. The rest is left for the wolves. These voracious prowlers soon come to the banquet, except when the scene of slaughter is near the camp. In such cases they remain at bay till night, when all is still. Then they come to the charge, and set up such howling that they frighten the inexperienced traveler. But their yells and bowlings, however frightful, have little or no effect upon those whose ears have become accustomed to such music. These sleep with as little concern as if there were not a wolf in the country. Of wolves we have seen four varieties, the grey, the white, the black and the bluish. The grey seeras to be the most common, as they are the most frequently seen. — The black wolves are large and ferocious aniraals. They sorae tiraes mingle with a herd of buffaloes, and at first appear quite harmless, but when they find a young calf strayed from its dam, or an old cow on the brink of a precipice, they are sure to attack and kill the former, and to harass the latter till they succeed in pushing it down the precipice. The wolves are very numerous in these regions. The plains are full of holes, which are generally deep, and into which they retire when hunger does not corapel thera to prowl about, or when they are pursued by the huntsman. There is a small sized wolf [coyote], called the medicine wolf, regarded by the Indians as a sort of manitou. They watch its yelpings during the night, and the superstitious conjurers pretend to understand and interpret thera. Ac cording to the loudness, frequency and other raodifications of these yelpings, they interpret that either friends or foes approach the carap, etc., and if it happens that on some occasion they conjecture right, the prediction is never for- 1400 FATHER DE SMET, BEAR HUNTER. gotten, and the conjurers take care to mention it on every emergency. There are also four kinds of bears, distinguished by the colors white, black, brown and grey. The white and grey bears [grizzlies] are what the lion is in Asia, the kings of the mountains; they are scarcely inferior to the lion in strength and courage, I have sometimes joined in the chase of this animal, but I was in good company, safe from danger. Four Indian hunters ran around the bear and stunned him with their cries ; they soon dispatched hira. In less than a quarter of an hour after this another fell beneath their blows. This chase is perhaps the raost dangerous of any; for the bear, when wounded, becomes furious, and unless he be disabled, as was the case in the two instances mentioned, he attacks and not unfrequently kills his pur suers. Messrs. Lewis and Clark, in their expedition to the sources of the Missouri, adduce a striking proof of the physical strength of this animal, which shows that he is a most formidable enemy. One evening, the men who were in the hindmost canoe discovered a bear, crouched in the prairie, at a distance of about 300 yards from the river. Six of them, all skillful hunters, left the canoe and advanced to attack him. Protected by a little eminence, they ap proached without being perceived, till they were but forty steps from the animal. Four of the men discharged their guns, and each one lodged a ball in his body — two of the balls had pierced the lungs. The bear, frantic with rage, started up and rushed upon his enemies, with wide extended jaws. As he approached, the two hunters who had kept their fire, inflicted two wounds on him; one of the balls broke his shoulder, which for a few moments retarded his progress, but before they could reload their guns, he was so close upon them that they had to run with the greatest speed to the river. Here he was on the point of seizing thera ; two of the raen threw theraselves into the canoe and the four others scattered and hid themselves among the wil lows, where they loaded and fired with the greatest expedi- NEW FACTS CONCERNING BEARS AND TIGERS. I4OI tion. They wounded him several times, which only served to increase his fury; at last he pursued two of them so closely, that they were compelled to provide for their safety by leaping into the river from a perpendicular bank nearly twenty feet high. The bear followed them, and was but a few feet frora them, when one of the hunters who had come from his lurking place, sent a ball through his head and killed him. They dragged him to the shore, and there ascertained that not less than eight balls passed through his body. All the mountain Indians confirm the statement that in winter the bear sucks his paw and lives on his own fat. They say furthermore that before going into winter quarters, namely into the hollow of a rock or of a tree or into some underground hole, he purges himself, then fills himself up with dry seeds, which he does not digest at all. Then he remains lying upon one side for some weeks with the heel of one paw all the time in his mouth, and turns over only four times in the course of the winter. Tigers [mountain lions?] are very numerous in the regions whence I am writing; but it appears that the fear of man is upon them not less than upon the other animals. Only a few days ago an Indian hunter came back to camp with three fine skins, eight to nine feet in length from the tip of the tail to the nose. He had come upon their tracks, and though armed only with a bow and arrows and ac companied by two sraall dogs, he had boldly followed thera until he found them in a tree, where he had succeeded in killing thera with arrows. These animals have extraordi nary strength in their tails, and make skillful use of them to choke to death deer, bighorn, elk and other animals which serve them for food. I remain, etc. CHAPTER IV,i THE MORMONS, Rapid settlement of the West — A forecast — Salt Lake Valley — What the Mormons have accomplished there — Proposed emigration to Sonora — Their rise, doctrine and present status. 'TT RULY, the United States is a region where marvels of ^*' every sort fellow one another so swiftly that one can scarcely follow them or believe what he hears. Towns and villages appear as if by enchantment. In 1837^ I traversed a desert of some hundred and fifty leagues in which there was neither a house nor a cabin to give shelter to the trav eler; once in a great while I met an Indian out hunting. Will you believe it? to-day that desert contains upwards of fifty cities, towns and villages, and thousands of the finest farms that one could ask to see. The first civilized man who set up his tent amongst the Indians on the spot where now stands St. Louis, has just recently died. He built the first house; he leaves a city which contains already 90,000 to 100,000 inhabitants, and which will have 200,000 before i860. I have just been down and up the Mississippi and the Ohio for more than 400 leagues. I know, plenty of people here who remember the tirae when the Indian was lord of those waters and the whites only navigated them in secret, or else in large nurabers and well armed; to-day, on those two rivers and their tributaries, over 700 steam boats, like floating palaces, sail majestically in all their 1 Extract from a letter to his nephew Charles, March, 1851 (in French). 2 This date is wrong. It was probably 1838. [1402] AN INHOSPITABLE REGION. I403 splendor, employing 25,000 sailors and carrying 140,000 tons of every kind of produce and raerchandise. These boats are valued at $12,000,000, and expend $10,000,000 annually, while the value of the merchandise that they transport in the course of a year from city to city and from one State to another, may be estimated roundly at $250,- 000,000. Of the lands watered by these great rivers, not one acre in ten is cultivated. What will it be like when the nine that remain are subjected to culture? Then 7,000 steamboats will be required to carry the products and the merchandise. The time is not far distant when on the banks of the Mississippi and the Ohio, from St, Louis and Cincinnati to New Orleans, there will be seen but a single unbroken village, surrounded with fair gardens and lovely fields. At another time I will speak to you in detail of the immense resources of this country, which could with ease employ and nourish all the inhabitants of the British Isles, France, Germany, Belgium, Holland and Spain. But I forget myself ; I started to tell you of a recent and genuinely American occurrence. It has to do with the new Territory of Utah. In 1846* I found myself involved with a single companion in some very difficult and dangerous mountain passes. The character of the region appeared to me at that time very singular ; its situation is different from that of any other section of North America. The summits of these precipitous and rocky mountains are covered with perpetual snows; the valleys are very narrow, sterile and arid ; the earth and rocks are covered with bitter and saline incrustations; no other vegetation is to be seen than sage brush of large growth, sufficient in that region for firewood for the lone traveler in those parts. As soon as one is through these passages, always arid in summer and choked with snow through five months of the year, he comes into a lovely and very extensive valley, which is the only habit- 3 This is probably a slip for 1841, when the Father did have an ex perience, like that here related, in the country now occupied by the "Mormons. — See p. 303. 1404 THE GREAT SALT LAKE COUNTRY. able part ; it is called to-day the Great American Basin, and it lies sorae 5,000 feet above sea-level. This basin is 560 miles in diameter ; it has its own system of lakes and rivers, and has no apparent communication with the ocean. It is possible that gulfs may exist in the Great Salt lake, through which its waters discharge themselves into the Pacific, or it may communicate with other lakes in the regions of Lower California. The Great Salt lake, which is about 300 miles in circumference, lies in the northern part of the Great basin. It is rather shallow in the portions thus far explored; but is supposed to be very deep in the central parts. The water of the lake is more salty than sea-water. Three gallons of it yield a gallon of salt of the greatest purity, whiteness and fineness. On the northeast of the lake is the termination of the valley of Bear river. This valley is thirty miles long by twenty-two wide, and communicates with another valley ¦w'hich is fifty miles by eight.* It is in this first valley, inclosed by picturesque raountains, which has taken the name of the Valley of the Mormons, that their capital stands, called by some Great Salt Lake City, and by others Mormonville. These two valleys contain the principal' body of emigrants belonging to this sect (a species of socialism and communism), more than 30,000 in nura ber. They are capable of supporting in tirae a population of over 1,000,000. In the fall of 1846, as I drew near to the frontiers of the State of Missouri, I found the advance guard of the Mor mons, numbering about 10,000, camped in the territory of the Omahas, not far from the old Council Bluffs. They had just been driven out for the second time from a State of the Union (Illinois had received them after their war with the people of Missouri). They had resolved to winter on the threshold of the great desert, and then to move on- * Cache Valley, one of the most beautiful of all the mountain valleys, and now occupied by a dense Mormon population with some thirteen flourishing villages which can all be seen at once from any vantage point in the surrounding hills. SETTLEMENT OF SALT LAKE CITY, I405 ward into it, to put distance between theraselves and their persecutors, without even knowing at that time the goal of their long wanderings, nor the spot where they should once more build for themselves permanent dwellings. They asked me a thousand questions about the regions I had ex plored and the spot which I have just described to you pleased them greatly from the account I gave them of it. Was that what deterrained them? I would not dare to assert it. They are there. In the last three years Utah has changed its aspect, and from a desert has become a flourish ing territory which will soon become one of the States of the Union. It is bounded by California, Oregon, New Mexico and the region called of old the Great Western Territory. In 1847, iri the month of April, the first Mormon pioneers left the place of their winter quarters at Council Bluffs ; on the 22d of July of the same year they entered this valley and halted at the place which forms to-day the centre of the city. In the afternoon of the same day they were at work with three plows and a harrow, and had begun the first ditch for the irrigation of the field. On the 24th they planted five acres in potatoes. On the 28th they laid out the plan of the future city. It is divided into ten-acre blocks with eight lots to each block and a vast garden and yard to each lot. The streets are eight rods in width and the sidewalks on each side twenty feet. There are to be shade-trees alofig the sidewalks. Each block is sur rounded with a stream of limpid water, coming down in abundance from the mountains. Every house stands twenty feet frora the street line, and no two houses are built opposite each other, so that a man in his own front door cannot look into that of his neighbor, but has a fine view of his garden. There are four great public places, which will be adorned with beautiful fountains and trees brought from the four quarters of the globe. The square of the temple will have a fine garden. Already their missionaries have made arrangements in the Eastern States, in England, France, Italy, Denmark, Germany and the 1406 HIEROGLYPHICS AND ROCK SALT, islands of the sea, to make collections of the choicest seeds and fruits, or anything else that can serve for the embellish ment of this garden. By the first plan the city contained 135 blocks; since then there have been added 65 blocks on the east and 60 on the west of the city. The University place is a mile square. It is barely three years since the first house was built in this city and to-day there are several thousand comfortable houses, built of sun-dried bricks, and they have an abun dance of all the necessaries of life. In the vicinity of the city there are a great number of springs of all temperatures, mineral, sulphurous and pure water. The fields have to be irrigated to render them productive. The city lies twenty- two railes southeast of the Great Salt lake. Southward from it, at a distance of fifty miles, are Utah lake and valley, where the Mormons have built the city of Provo on the bank of a river which bears the sarae narae. The water of this lake is pure; it is eight railes by four and abounds in fish. A hundred railes south of this valley a colony of sorae 200 farailies have settled in a place called San Pete, where ruins have been found covered with hieroglyphics, and a raountain, strange to say, of rock salt. While I was at St. Mary's, araong the Flatheads, in 1844-1845, I sent several times to this mountain for salt. For five months of the year there is no communication with the north, east or west, by reason of the snow, which renders the passage of the mountains impracticable. The capital of the Mormons is in" west of Greenwich. Such is the change that has come over this desert in so short a time, and such the spot chosen by these new sec tarians for a shelter against the tyranny and persecutions that other sectarians have brought upon them. In the midst of the desert they have added a new star to the grand and beautiful American constellation. The Mormon sect has not been in existence thirty years. Already they have 200,000 converts or adepts, all of whora propose to go out and join their Utah brethren. The locality is well chosen, and will THINKS MORMONS WILL EMIGRATE. I4O7 be able to render immense services as a place for rest, re freshment and provisioning for the army of emigrants who pass year after year on their way to settle in California or Oregon; and when the great railroad is built, which is to join the Atlantic to the Pacific, this territory will be of great assistance, and will serve as a great support, or station by the way. University of St. Louis, December 12, 1857. Very dear Francis : Things are going on very easily in America. It will take a long time to restore confidence among the people. A whole new banking system is projected with assured guar antees. Hitherto these kinds of establishments have, for the most part, been nothing but regular traps, arrangements for smart scoundrels to get hold of the people's money with impunity. There is a good deal of talk just now about war with the Morraons. These polygaraous fanatics have lately been cora- mitting infamous atrocities upon the poor peaceable emi grants. A war of extermination is being prepared for them. The Mormons could raake it a long and hard one in their alraost inaccessible raountains. I think that the Morraons will pass the winter in doing the Araericans all the damage they can, and early in the spring take up their march and take possession of the province of Sonora in Mexico. They have a political system that is inadmissible in a republic, and a religious system still less admissible, which is the " abomination of abominations," invented in the present century. The place where they live, the Great Salt lake country, is most raiserable. Wood, fresh water and grass are scarce. The region would never allow a heavy settle- 1408 HISTORY OF JOSEPH SMITH. ment. The climate is not wholesome, Sonora offers all kinds of advantages, and the Morraons, after they have done all the harm they can, will take refuge there, "^ University of St. Louis, Jan, 19, 1858. Reverend and Dear Father:^ I propose to give you in this letter a short sketch of the fanatic sect of Mormons, against whora the Governraent of the United States has just sent troops, in order to subject thera to the laws, or force them to leave the country. The facts which I will relate on the origin and history of this singular people are chiefly drawn frora a recent work by John Hyde, who had been an elder or minister of the Mormon sect. The founder of the Mormons was onejoseph Smith, born of an obscure faraily, December 23, 1805, at Sharon, Wind sor county, Vermont. The whole Hfe of this man, from youth up, was marked by fanaticism, fraud and vice. More than fifty persons of good reputation and in every way worthy of respect, who knew him at Palmyra, New York, where he had settled with his family, have testified under oath that Joseph Smith was regarded as a man of no moral character and given to vicious habits. In 1820 Smith em braced Methodism. In April of that year he pretended to have had a revelation from heaven, while praying in the 5 The general outcry against the Mormons at this time had its influence upon Father De Smet, as is evidenced by his change of view in the six years between the dates of this and the preceding letter. Perhaps his ready acceptance of the report that the Mormons con templated an exodus to Mexico was a case of " the wish is father to the thought." That would, indeed, have been an effective solution of the Mormon question in the United States. ^ To the editor of the Precis Historiques, Brussels. ORIGIN OF BOOK OF MORMONS, I409 woods. He said that God the Father and Jesus Christ his Son had appeared to him, and had declared to him that his sins were forgiven, that God had chosen him to restore his kingdom on earth and propagate anew the truth of the gospel which all Christendom had lost. In 1S23 Smith, forgetting his revelations and his pretended divine mission, plunged as deep as ever in blasphemy, fraud, drunkenness and other vices. Then, he said, an angel appeared to him and revealed the existence of a book written on gold plates and containing the history of the ancient inhabitants of America. This is the origin of the "Book of Mormon," or Golden Bible, the Koran of these Mahometans. The next day Smith visited the spot designated by the angel as the spot where the book was. This was on the slope of a hill between Palmyra and Manchester. There he pretended to find in fact golden plates in a stone box; but this time his efforts to raise thera were vain. There was, he says, a great contest between the devil and the angels as to it; but al though the devil was beaten, the angel did not give the book to Smith, who received it only four years after, on the 22d of September, 1827. The Book of Mormon, like the Koran, is a tissue of con tradictory plagiarisms and absurd inventions. The whole is interlarded with passages fromthe Bible. It has been proved that the portion given as historical is merely a plagiary of a romance of Solomon Spalding whose raanuscript had been stolen by Sraith. Spalding had written, under the title of The Discovered Manuscript, a romance on the-origin of the American Indians. He died before pubhshing it. After his death his widow removed to New York and Smith is known to have worked near her house. Some time after the publi cation of the Book of Mormon she discovered theloss of her husband's manuscript. Many of Spalding's relatives and friends detected T/i^ Discovered Manuscript, slightly altered, in Sraith's book. Spalding had been in the habit of reading long passages frora his novel; the singularity of the facts, names and style, which was biblical, had so struck them 89 I4I0 HISTORY AND ETYMOLOGY, that they did not forget it. Now, the Book of Mormon had the same characteristics, the same strange names, the same incredible facts, the same style, John Spalding, the author's brother, thus expresses himsielf on the point : " My brother's book was entitled The Discovered Manuscript, It was an historical novel on the first inhabitants of America. Its object was to show that the American Indians were de scended from the Jews, or the lost tribes. There was a de tailed description of their voyage, by land and sea, from their departure from Jerusalem to their arrival in Araerica, under the orders of Nephi and Lehi. I have recently read the Book of Mormon, To my great astonishment I have found almost the sarae historical matters, the same names, etc., such as they were in my brother's writings." Many other persons, who knew Solomon Spalding well, and who for the most part knew nothing of Joseph Smith, gave similar testimony under oath. The Book of Mormon probably derives its name from one of the chapters of this novel. A descendant of Lehi ob tained the plates of gold, brass, etc., on which the prophets had engraved the history of the voyages and wars of their race, and this descendant was called Mormon. He abridged this history, and gave it to his son Moroni. The latter, hav ing added a sketch of the history of Jared, inclosed all in a box, which he buried on a hill, A. D. 400. Smith, declar ing himself chosen to give this wonderful book to the world, pretended to have received the gift of understanding and translating it. He did not write this translation himself, but dictated it. During the dictation he was concealed behind a curtain made of a bed-quilt, forthe plates were so sacred that he did not even permit his secretary to gaze on them. To give a still higher idea of his golden bible, he explained the title after his own fashion. According to him, the word Mormon comes from the Egyptian mon, signifying good, and the English wordmor^;so thatMormon mesLXis Better! Now, the bible, says Smith, in its widest signification, means good, since our Lord says in the gospel, " I am the good RISE AND PROGRESS OF MORMONS. I4II shepherd." The ignorant and fanatical believe all those fables. The Book of Mormon, although most known, is not the chief book of the sect. The Book of Teachings and Cove nants, containing some of the revelations which Smith pre tended to have received from heaven, is regarded by his disciples as a book of the law which God has given this gen eration. Smith also published other revelations, which are contained in a little book called The Pearl of Great Price. Much of the doctrine of Smith is a mere repetition of the works of various Protestant sects. He has imitated Ma homet in his infamous immorality by permitting polygamy. To all this his successor has added abominable doctrines on the nature and attributes of God. Smith organized his new religion in 1830. He could then number only six disciples. The next year, having ob tained new adherents, he sent elders, two by two, to preach the new doctrine. When the nuraber of his disciples had sufficiently increased, he founded a colony in Missouri, but their conduct induced the people of that State — first those around Independence, where the Mormons had first settled, and then those of Liberty — to expel them from the State. In 1834 the Mormon sect adopted the pompous title of " Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints," and thence the Mormons called themselves Latter-Day Saints, or simply Saints. Sraith and his adepts having acquired, in 1839, ^ large tract in Illinois, in a beautiful section on the banks of the Mississippi, built a flourishing city, which they called Nau- voo, erected a raagnificent temple, now in ruins, and lived there till 1844, when they rendered themselves odious to the people of that State. They were attacked by an ungovern able mob, and the false prophet and his brother, Hyrum, were massacred in prison at Carthage. In 1845 these persecutions continued and the Mormons, driven at last from Nauvoo, resolved in council to seek a solitary and permanent abode in some fertile valley at the I4I2 OBSERVATIONS ON FORESTRY. foot of the Rocky Mountains. They carried out this project in 1847, penetrated into the desert some 1,200 miles, and founded a new city on the banks of the Great Salt lake, at the foot of a lofty chain of mountains forming a portion of the eastern limits of the Great basin. Brigham Young, Smith's successor as prophet and chief, was their leader in this long and painful march. The valley of the Great basin is about 500 miles long frora north to south, and 350 from east to west. It is formed by the Sierra Madre bounding it on the east, and by the Goose creek and Humboldt Mountains on the west. Utah Territory, thus occupied by the Mormons, contains in all 187,923 square miles. (The lake, which is now only seventy miles long and thirty-five wide, probably filled, at a remote epoch, the whole valley. On all sides, on the slopes of the raountains, at a uniform height, are traces which water alone could have made.) In 1841 I traversed much of this valley in my rambles in the Rocky Mountains. The country was then wooded and agreeable, watered by springs and streams, winding through the valley. Since the Mor mon emigration the forests have disappeared on the slopes of the hills and raountains, and, as the snows are more ex posed to the rays of the sun and melt quicker, the springs dry up, and the streams give scarcely water enough in the spring to irrigate the cultivated fields and supply the do mestic animals. Salt Lake City contains at present 15,000 inhabitants. They are mostly English, Scotch and Swedes. Hardly one- fourth of the Mormons are Americans by birth. They are scattered up and down in the villages and towns of all the plains and valleys of Utah, so called from an Indian tribe of that region. The Territory is bounded on the north by Oregon, on the west by California, on the east by the Territories of Kansas and Nebraska, and on the south by New Mexico. The total number of the inhabitants of the Territory is less than 50,000, although the Mormon leaders, SKETCH OF BRIGHAM YOUNG, I413 for ends of their own, represent it as much higher. The nurabei of Mormons in different countries is estimated at 300,000, They send their emissaries to all parts of the globe. These take good care not to present Mormonisra in its true colors to those who are not as yet prepared to accept it such as it is. Many of the Morraons at Salt Lake, it is said, adopted the new sect only in hopes of finding there an earthly paradise, with unlimited abundance for every want. Once in Utah, it is no easy matter to escape the snares and despotic power of the leader. Brigham Young, president of the Mormon church, and now rebellious Governor of Utah Territory, enjoys absolute authority over his people. This man is, like Joseph Smith, a native of Vermont, born at Whittinghara, June i, 1801. Having embraced Mormonisra in 1832, he soon became Smith's intimate friend. Since he became chief of the Mor mons, he has displayed boundless ambition and talents far superior to Smith's. He labors to establish Mormonisra all over the American continent. As to the Territory which he governs, he wishes to make it an independent State in the confederation. He has often declared that he will permit no one else to be Governor of Utah. He defies the author ity of the President and of all the Union. The judges and other officers appointed by the General Government for the civil adrninistration of Utah have been expelled from the Territory, after seeing it useless to attempt to exercise their functions. Young has set up tribunals of his own, and in the United States courts which he tolerated before his rebel hon, the juries gave verdicts according to his direction. The Government at last resolved to resort even to force to raake him respect its authority. Accordingly, last fall (1857), a detachment of 2,500 men was sent to the Territory to raain tain the new Governor and his suite. On this Young prepared to resist. The troops have al ready entered Utah, but the severity of the winter arrests thera about 150 railes from the Mormon capital. The Mor- I414 MILITARY SERVICE AMONG THE MORMONS. mons are not idle. They have surprised a train of seventy- six wagons, pillaged and burned them, carrying off all the aniraals, horses, raules and oxen. This loss is estimated at a million of dollars. The troops, ill-lodged ahd ill-fed, will suffer terribly if the winter is severe, as it is usually in the elevated parts which they occupy. As soon as the spring opens large reinforcements will be sent. There is a great diversity of opinion here on the matter. Many think that the war will be long and bloody, and that the Mormons will resist to the death. A great manifestation on the part of the Governraent will, doubtless, be necessary; and I think that as the new forces approach the rebel territory, the Mormons will retire after setting fire to their towns, and march to occupy sorae new district — Sonora, perhaps, or some other thinly-settled tract in the vast Mexican territory. This fanatical sect will find repose only outside of all other civil jurisdiction. It will master and subject all, unless it is mastered and expelled in season. One more word on the Mormons and I have done. A new organization has been given to the Mormon troops. In 1840 Smith organized the Nauvoo Legion, and compelled all his disciples from the age of sixteen to fifty to enter it. This little troop has continually increased, and preserves its old name. No effort is spared to render the soldiers perfect in military discipline and exercises. They have at their head officers who served under General Scott in the Mexican war. Young's whole army might, in case of necessity, be brought up to 8,000 men. This number would not be for midable, were they not all animated with a spirit of fanati cism which will make them fight, if it comes to that, with an obstinacy like that of the first Mahometans. Besides the community of religion and interest there exists among them another bond. A great number of them are bound to the president and Prophet Young by horrible oaths. There exists among this people a society called the Mormon En dowment, into which members are admitted amid cere- BLIND OBEDIENCE AND DEATH PENALTY. I415 monies most capable of inspiring superstitious terror. The initiated take an oath of blind obedience, as understood by the secret societies of Europe, The penalty of death awaits him who violates his oath. If the Mormons wish war, as they so loudly proclaim, they will have a chance this year, but they cannot long resist the troops of the United States, I have the honor to be, etc. CHAPTER V. INDIAN ANECDOTES, Principle governing courtships — The minister and the vowing sav age — Brotherhood — Lying — A Blackfoot episode — A cherry-tree feud — On the destination of Calvinist ministers. ^'HERE^ was an old Indian chief, who was a great ob- ^^ server. He had spent several years araong the whites, and he said that the Indians not only had quicker ways of getting a wife, but were at the same time more certain of getting a good one. " Because," said he, in his bad French, " white man spark, spark, long time — maybe whole year, maybe two years, before marry. All right! Maybe wife good — maybe heap bad ; maybe scold. Suppose wife scold; get up in raorning, scold, all day scold, scold till go to sleep. Maybe scold, maybe not scold — all same thing ; white man have to keep her long as live. How Indian do? Indian, see girl plenty work — go up to her, show her two finger right hand, heap close — two finger all same one — Indian look at girl, see girl smile — all right ! Girl say yes. Then make feast and live together. No danger wife scold — wife know what husband do when wife scold. Husband run off, hide ! Indian woman like heap buffalo meat, deer meat — no husband, no buffalo, no deer. Wife heap try please husband — husband heap try please wife — all live happy together, all sarae fingers on hand." Once a Protestant dorainie was preaching to the Indians, and took for his text " Make vows to the Lord your God, and keep those vows." As soon as the preaching was over, 1 From a letter in French to his niece, Rosalie, July, 1855. [1416] vows, KINDRED AND LIARS. I417 an Indian who had been present accosted hira, saying, " Dorainie, rae raake vow to go home with you." No ready evasion occurring to him, the preacher answered, "All right, come along." When they reached home, the Indian said further, " Me make vow to eat supper with you." It was so done, to the not very great pleasure of the minister's wife. Supper over, the Indian went on " Me make vow to stay all night in your house." The Indian's vows might have gone much further, if the Dominie had not cut them short by saying, " You can make all the vows you please, but I make a vow in ray turn that you shall get out of my house early to-morrow morning." The Indian judged from his host's tone that there was no use in his making any further vows, and left the house the next day with out ceremony. A white raan one day raet an Indian and honored hira with the title of Brother, The redskin stopped, and in quired disdainfully how and since when they had been brothers ? The white raan answered, " Oh, through Adara, I suppose." The Indian thereupon expressed his heartfelt gratitude to the Great Spirit that the relationship was no closer. The Indians have a horror of lying. Here is a case in point. An Indian courier came to a village of his tribe, and iramediately called together all the chiefs and braves, having need of a prompt reply to an important raessage. They asserabled accordingly, but after the messenger had discharged his errand and was waiting for the response, none was given him, and he soon became aware that his hearers were departing one by one and that he would shortly be left alone in the council lodge. A stranger who had been present inquired of the head chief the reason of this strange proceeding. " It is," he replied, " because he lied to us once," I418 STRONG MEDICINE OF A TRAPPER, ^The Blackfeet are generally accounted brave, though instances have been known of three or four whites defeat ing a large party of them. On one occasion, three trappers fell into an ambuscade of these Indians, and two of them were instantly shot from their horses, but the third was left untouched, and spurring his horse to the height of its speed, broke through the whole throng and was soon out of reach. Four mounted Indians immediately started in pursuit, and gained rapidly upon him until they came within shoot ing distance, when the lone trapper turned upon them, and with his double-barreled rifle picked off two of their num ber, and again fled. Confident of securing their intended victira, now that they supposed his fire-arms were uncharged, the remaining two hurried after hira, and in a few minutes were within range of pistol-shot. The trapper then again halted, and the discharge of a pistol brought the third to the ground. Drawing forth a second from his belt, the work of slaughter would have been complete, had not the terrified savage, in his turn, fled with the utmost precipitancy. The trapper pursued, but was far in the rear when the Black foot regained his comrades, and hurriedly exclaimed : " Haste ye ! flee ! It was the Big Medicine we pursued, and at his word three of our warriors breathe not, and of four I only have escaped! His single medicine-iron twice spoke the death-word, and at the same time; then with his pipe-stera he bade a third one go to the Spirit Land; and, as he drew forth his butcher-knife to shoot me, I had fled beyond reach, that I might tell you how to escape! Haste ye, flee! It is the Big Medicine that comes from yon ! Flee, lest he kill us all ! " Following his advice, the astonished savages immediately fled with the greatest consternation, fully persuaded it was 2 From the published work of Rufus B. Sage, entitled Rocky Moun tain Life. REVENGE WAS MUTUAL. I4I9 their only mode of escaping frora certain destruction at the hands of the Big Medicine ! Last suraraer a great Assiniboin brave or chief left his tribe and came down to attend the Great Indian Council that was held in the Platte valley, near Fort Laramie, When he returned to his own country they told hira that several members of his family had eaten too many cherries and died, having been attacked by cholera. The bereaved chief at once loaded his gun with fine shot and went out against some cherry trees, full of fruit, that were near the place. Then he addressed thera, as if the fruit and the trees had been alive, and accused thera of being the raurderers of his children and relations. "And now," he said, " it is the hour of my vengeance, I shall kill you also," and there upon fired several times into the trees. " Now that you are dead," says he, picking up the fruit that had fallen, " I will finish you by eating you up." But unfortunately he ate too much — the cholera seized him and in a few hours he too was dead. ^ Now if you want something about Indians to fill a corner with, here is an anecdote, not altogether savage. I doubt in fact if your Precis Historiques contain many better, Araong the converted Indians on the Canadian frontier there was once a certain Jean Baptiste, whose further ap pellations are unknown to rae; doubtless he was the owner of other vowels and consonants, forraing one of those terri fying names, well called by the Americans " jaw-breakers." Jean Baptiste it appears had done a little thieving in his tirae, and when he was converted the Black-robe enjoined upon hira to restore two dollars to the Calvinist minister of the neighborhood. Jean Baptiste accordingly presented 3 From a letter to Father Terwecoren, December 6, 1854. I420 FAR-SEEING JEAN BAPTISTE, himself before the minister, and the following dialogue ensued : " Well, what do you want ? " said the preacher to the native, " Me, one time, rob you. Black-robe tell me, Jean Bap tiste, you give that money back," " What money is that? " inquired the reverend, " Two dollar. Me, bad Indian, rob you ; now, me good Indian, got water on forehead — me, heap child Great Spirit — here your money." " All right — don't steal any more — good bye, Jean Bap tiste." " Ah — good bye no good ; rae want soraething else." "What do you want?" " Me want receipt." " A receipt ! What do you want a receipt for ? Did the Black-robe tell you to ask for one?" said the surprised minister. " Black-robe say nothing. Jean Baptiste (pointing to hira self) want receipt." " But why do you want a receipt ? You stole the money, and you have given it back ; that is all there is about it." "That not all about it; listen. You old — me young; you die first — after while, me die. Understand? " " No, I don't. What is it you mean ? " " Listen — me mean heap. Me go heaven after while, go knock on gate. Great Chief Saint Peter come open — say ' Hello, Jean Baptiste, what you want ? ' ' Me want come in Great Spirit's lodge.' ' How about your sins, Jean Bap tiste ? ' ' Black-robe forgive sins all right.' ' How about that two dollar you stole from minister? You give him back? You show me your receipt ! ' Now then, poor Jean Baptiste, poor old Indian, got no receipt; have to run all over hell to find you ! " CHAPTER VI, OBSERVATIONS UPON AMERICA,^ On gold in California — Bigness of the Republic — Inland navigation — Thrift and loftier motives — Chances not good for young foreigners of the better class — Nothing stops the Americans — Missouri in war time — Brigandage and terror — The Mason and SHdell affair — Scenes at the firing on Sumter — Essay on the causes of the war — Both sides of the quarrel — The North and the South on slavery — Situation at the close of hostilities — The Missouri Test Oath — Persecution of Catholics — Grant's election. ?ITN the last two months thousands of emigrants have passed " through St. Louis, going to the California mines ; every day some of them come to see me to ask counsel and advice. I have succeeded in curing some of them of the gold fever. Imagine thousands of adventurers of all countries, desert ers, sailors, robbers, murderers, the scum of the States, of Mexico, Peru, Chile, the Sandwich Islands (with some honest men among them, no doubt), all living lawless and unbridled lives, and that is the condition in California at this time. The news of the abundance of gold seeras to have shaken the United States to the foundation. The fever seems to be slackening a little. Twenty million dollars in values and specie has been sent to California. ********* P- S. — In 1840 I chrabed a lofty mountain a few days' travel from the Sacramento. The bed of a stream that came down from it seemed to me to be of gold sand. It was so abundant that I could not believe the thing was real, and I 1 Extract from a letter in French to his brother, Charles, April 26, 1849. [1421] 1422 AN ENGLISH CORRESPONDENCE SCHOOL, passed on without examining it. To-day I have little doubt that it was really the precious metal,^ St, Louis University, Nov, 2, 1849, Dear Charles: I received your kind letter of the i8th of August last. All you tell me and all your good father mentioned of you to rae in his own letter has been most pleasing and wel come to me. I now begin a long epistle, which will be fol lowed by several others, according to the leisure left me, on the actual position and progress of this country. I will endeavor in the series of letters I purpose to send you to give a succinct idea of what has happened and of what is taking place daily in this great country. Henceforth I will write to you in English to encourage you not to neglect that beautiful and at present most important language. You will please to translate whatever I write to you to your good parents — this certainly will be a most pleasing and agreeable passetemps in the long winter evenings in which we are now entering. , I have sent to you many a long letter from the great American desert, speaking of its wild inhabitants, of its ani raals, its flowers and trees, its rivers and lakes, its wastes, its mountains and plains. I have said little of its civilized portion. I now enter upon a lofty and vast subject, a sub ject which I hope you shall find full of interest, on which I will give you my thoughts, my feelings, what I have heard and read and know to be true. I will generalize in this, my first letter ; I will enter into particulars in my next. What nation on earth presents such a spectacle as the United States of North Araerica, of a confederated Gov- 2 In 1840 Father De Smet passed very near, if not exactly over, the site of the famous Alder Gulch, Montana, the richest of all gold placers. It was more than " a few days' travel " from the Sacramento, however. overwhelming statistics, 1423 ernment, so complicated, over such a vast extent of terri tory, with so many varied interests, and yet moving so- harmoniously? I went within the walls of the Capitol at Washington, and there^ under the star-spangled banners that wave amid its domes, I found the representatives of eight Territories and of thirty States or nations — nations, in many senses, they may be called — that have within them all the germ and sinew to raise a greater people than many of the proud, now tottering, principalities of Europe; all speaking or learning one and the same language, all acting with one heart and all burning with the same enthusiasm — the love and glory of the Great Republic — even while par ties do exist and bitter domestic quarrels now and then arise. I take my map and I mark from whence the representa tives come. What a breadth of latitude and longitude, and that too in the fairest portion of North America! What a variety of climate, and then, what a variety of production I What a stretch of sea coast on two oceans, with harbors enough for all the commerce of the world ! What an im mense national domain, unsurveyed, of extinguished and unextinguished Indian tribes, within the States and Terri tories and without, estimated in the aggregate to be worth the immense sum of $1,500,590.70, [ ?] of which lands 760,000,000 acres are without the bounds of the States and Territories and are yet to make new States and to be admitted into the Union! The revenue now, from the sales of public lands, is over $6,000,000. The national debt may be considered more than extinguished; and yet within seventy-five years, starting with a population of about 3,000,000, they have fought the war of independence ; again struggled, not ingloriously, with the greatest naval power in the world, with fresh laurels won on sea and land — ¦ and now the Union has a population of over 23,000,000 souls. One cannot feel the grandeur of this Republic unless he surveys it in detail. For example, two senators may soon 1424 AN ENRAPTURED TRAVELER. be expected on their way to Washington, one from Cali fornia, the other from Oregon, They must be constantly moving for months before they arrive at their journey's end, I never shall forget the rapture of a traveler who left the green parks of New Orleans early in March — that land of the orange and the olive, then teeming with verdure, freshness and life, and, as it were, raocking him with the midsuraraer of his own northern home. He journeyed leisurely toward the region of ice and snow, to watch the budding of the young flowers and to catch the breeze of the spring. He crossed the lakes Pontchartrain and Borgne; he ascended the big Tombigbee in a comfortable steamboat. From Tuscaloosa he shot athwart the wilds of Alabama, over Indian grounds that bloody battles have ren dered memorable. He traversed Georgia, the Carolinas, ranged along the base of the mountains of Virginia; and for three months and more he enjoyed one perpetual, one unvarying, ever coming spring — that most delicious season of the year — until, by the middle of June, he found him self in the fogs of the Passamaquoddy where tardy sum mer was even then hesitating whether it was time to come. And yet he had never been off the soil of his own country ! The flag that he saw on the sumrait of the fortress on the lakes near New Orleans was like that which floated from the staff on the hills of old Fort Sullivan, in the eastern-most extremity of Maine ; and the morning gun that startled his slumbers among the rocky battlements that defy the wild tides of the Bay of Fundy, was not answered till many min utes after on the shores of the Gulf of Mexico and hours after on the shores of the Bay of San Francisco in Cali fornia, The swamps, the embankments, the cane-brakes of the Father of Waters (the Mississippi), on whose muddy banks the croaking alligator displayed his ponderous jaws; the cotton fields, the rice fields of the low southern country and the vast fields of wheat and corn in the regions of the mountains, were far, far behind him, and he was now in a hyperborean land, where nature wore a rough and surly INLAND NAVIGATION OF UNITED STATES, I425 aspect, and a cold soil and a cold clime drove man to launch his bark upon the ocean, to dare wind and wave, and to seek from the deep the fisheries, and from freights the treasures his own horae will not give him. Indeed such a journey as this, in one's own country, to an inquisitive mind, is worth all " the tours of Europe," He who wishes to feel the full importance of an American congress must make such a journey. Let hira take an ex cursion on the Sacraraento which drains the far-faraed and new Eldorado of the West. Let hira stand upon the levee at New Orleans and count the numbers and the tiers of American vessels that lie there, four, five and six thick along its embankraent. Let him hear the puff, puff, puff of the high pressure steamboats that come sweeping in almost every hour, perhaps from a port 2,000 miles off, from the then frozen winter of the north, to the full burning sum mer of the south — all inland navigation — fleets of them, as large as the world can show ; with their elegant rooms, neat berths, spacious saloons and costly pianos, it may be, so that travelers can make their way to Louisville (Ken tucky), as if they were on a party of pleasure. Let him survey all these, as they come in with products from the Red river, 1,200 miles in one direction, or from Pittsburg (Pennsylvania), 2,000 miles in another direction; frora the western tributaries of the vast Mississippi, the thickets of the Arkansas or White river, frora the muddy, far-reach ing Missouri and its hundreds of branches. * * * Let liim see the adventurous flatboats of western waters on which, frail bark! the daring backwoodsman sallies forth frora the Wabash, or rivers hundreds of railes above, on a voyage of Atlantic distance, with hogs, horses, oxen and cattle of all kinds on board, corn, flour, wheat — all the products of rich western lands. * * * Take the traveler where the clear, silvery waters of the Ohio become tinged with the mud from the Missouri, and where the currents of the mighty rivers run apart for miles, as if indignant at the strange embrace. Ascend with him 90 1426 ACHIEVEMENTS OF THE YANKEE farther to St, Louis, where, if he looks upon the map, he will find that he is about as near the east as the west, and that already thousands upon thousands of emigrants, who are borne on the wave of population that beats at the base of the Rocky Mountains, are now overleaping its summits. They will speak of him as he now speaks of New England, as far in the east. And then tell hira that far west as he is he is but at the beginning of steam navigation; that the Mississippi itself is navigable about a thousand miles up ward; and that steamboats have actually gone on the Mis souri, on that mad and muddy stream, 2,200 miles above its mouth, and that they can go 500 miles farther still ! Take him then from this land where the woodsman is leveling the forest every hour, across the rich prairies of Illinois where civilization is throwing up towns and villages, pointed with the spire of the church and adorned with the college and the school; then athwart the flourishing fields of In diana to Cincinnati, well called " The Queen of the West " — a city of over 100,000 inhabitants, * * * — and this in a State of 2,000,000 souls, * * * where the fierce savages, even within the memory of young men, made the hearts of their parents quake with fear. * * * Show him our immense inland seas, from Green bay to Lake Ontario, not inconsiderable oceans, encompassed with fertile fields. Show him the public works of the Empire State (New York) as well as those of Pennsylvania [and Ohio] — works which are the wonder of the world, such as no one people in modern times have ever equaled. And then introduce hira to the busy, huraming, thriving popula tion of New England, from the Green Mountains of Ver mont, the Switzerland of America, to the northern lakes and wide sea coast of Maine. Show him the industry, en ergy, skill and ingenuity of those hardy people, who let not a rivulet run nor a puff of wind blow without turning it to some account; who mingle in everything wherever a cent of money is to be earned; whose lumbermen are found not only in the deepest woods of the snowy wilds of AND HIS LOFTY PATRIOTISM, I427 Maine, * * * ; hut on the banks of the St, Lawrence, and * * * streams whose names geographers hardly know. ^Hi ^ ^a ^ ^ ^ >^ ^ /At, Then lift him above considerations of a mercenary char acter and show him how New England raen are perpetuat ing their high character and holy love of liberty, and how, by neat and elegant public buildings that adorn every vil lage; by comfortable schoolhouses that appear every two miles or oftener upon alraost every road, free for every body, high-born and low-born, and by acaderaies and col leges that thicken even to an inconvenience; by asylums and institutions munificently endowed for the benefit of the poor. And let him see too with what generous pride their bosoms swell when they go within the consecrated walls of Faneuil Hall, or point out the heights of Bunker Hill or speak of Concord and Lexington where their bitter enemies, the British, were crushed. Dear Charles, if you come to America, you raay make such a tour as this — the best that can be made — and I am sure your young heart will beat quick when you will see the proud spectacle of the assemblage of the representatives of all these people and all their interests within a single hall. You will revere the offspring of those revolutionary patriots, who not only left us such a heritage, won by their suffer ings and their blood, and such a constitution, such a Gov ernment here in Washington regulating all the national concerns, but who left us also, in effect, thirty-four other governments, with territory enough to add twenty-four to them by and by, that regulate all the minor concerns of the people acting within their own sphere. Now, in the win ter, assembling within their various capitols, frora San Francisco on the Pacific ocean * * * to Augusta on the Kennebeck. Show me a spectacle more glorious, raore encouraging, than this, in the pages of all history — a con stellation of free States, with no public force but public opinion, moving by well-regulated law, each in its own proper orbit, around the brighter star in Washington ; thus 1428 YOUNG MEN SHOULD STAY IN EUROPE realizing, as it were, on earth, almost practically, the beauti ful display of infinite wisdom that fixed the sun in the centre and sent the revolving planets on their errands. God grant it may end as with them ! In my next I will enter into details — meanwhile I will expect a long letter from you. Present my best love to your good father and mother ; kiss little Paul for me ; and tell a thousand things from my part to the whole family and to my best friends and acquaintances. I am, etc.. St. Joseph's College, Bardstown, Ky., Dec. 6, 1852. Dear Alexander (Bardemaeker) ? I received your good letter just as I was starting from St. Louis. I was at the moment writing to my brother Francis, and he will no doubt already have coraraunicated to you ray opinion concerning your son William's com ing to America, Since then I have given the matter care ful thought, but am only the more confirmed in ray view, I would not think I was doing right by you, nor by the friendship which I owe you on so many accounts, if I gave the slightest encouragement to William to leave his native land and come to seek his fortune in the United States. I will tell you just what I think. I conjure you, do not send your son to America. Ten to one it would be his ruin. He would find himself in raisery, practically a galley-slave ; that is what usually happens to young raen of education who come to this country, provided they find employment at all. The business-houses, the banks, the city and State offices, the colleges, the schools, all have their employees, and when a place becoraes vacant, or a new house is opened, the num ber of applicants is legion. How could it be otherwise in a city of 100,000 souls, where three-fourths of the inhab itants are newcomers, and this number growing every day? 3 From the French. UNLESS THEY ARE PREPARED TO ROUGH IT, I429 It is just the same with lawyers and doctors; the city is siraply encumbered with them; everywhere the walls and doors are covered with their signs. Who are the ones that succeed then? The merchants employ their own children or the children of their near rela tives and friends, and of the public employees ninety-nine per cent, are Americans, and they raake great efforts to keep foreigners out of these positions. European merchants suc ceed in America, when they have means at their disposal. They can readily obtain credit then, and establish business houses. Poor and honest young men succeed in America if they have some education, but they have to begin by sweeping the floor and running on errands and carrying customers' bundles. Liltle by little they become clerks, sometimes even partners, though these cases are infrequent. Workingmen of all kinds, especially machinists, stonecut ters, brickmakers, masons, street and railroad laborers, car penters, blacksmiths, all get good wages in America, and with industry and perseverance a great many of them come to be pretty well off. People in Europe have illusions concerning America. The greater part of the young men, who can justly claim to be something, and who know nothing of the miseries of life from experience in their families, who have received a good education, do not succeed in the least. Accordingly we see very many of them, if they have the means, go back to the old country, and that is the best thing they can do, and T tell them so every chance I get. *:ic:|::)es|cjje^5}:3lc I presume I will have told you in Belgium that I won dered that the Belgian merchants and business houses were so slow in extending their commerce and establishing branch houses abroad, especially in the United States. The Eng lish, Germans, French are doing so and in general they succeed. Then later they can employ in such houses as this their sons or the sons of their friends, and success is reason ably certain for the latter. St. Louis has no Belgian houses. 1430 THE IRREPRESSIBLE AMERICAN. New York probably has some, connected with firms in Ant werp. You should make inquiries in this line and find one of these houses, where William would be sure of being re ceived, before you allow him to come to America. To do otherwise would be iraprudent in the extreme. Give my love, etc. St. Louis University, March 12, 1853. My dear Francis :* I have just received your good letter of the 9th of Feb ruary and I thank you for it most sincerely. The news that you gave me of the indisposition of our dear brother Charles disturbs rae greatly. I pray and hope that nothing bad will corae of it. My malady is leaving rae gradually, and I have been able to resume my little tasks and to make my customary journeys. There are no less than twenty- five letters on my table which I have to answer. My post of Procurator-General of the Province of Missouri de mands much time and gives me a great deal to do. ********* The great news of the day in Araerica is the inauguration of the new President, which has just taken place in Wash ington with a blaze of glory. This raorning the papers an nounce that three large banks in our neighborhood have failed. There will be a great panic in the city, where thou sands of inhabitants will find theraselves ruined at a blow. But all this will not prevent the railroad to the Pacific from being begun. It is a strange people in the midst of whora we live. Nothing frightens them ; they will undertake any thing. Soraetiraes they halt — stumble once in a while — but they get up again and march onward. Several great new territories are about to be formed in the Indian country, and soon the steam-engine will go out and give a shock to the buffalo and the bear of the desert ; and the poor unhappy * From the French. WAR censorship AND THE MAILS. I43I savages, what will becorae of thera? They will no doubt be turned out and pushed back anew, farther into the sterile regions,_ where they will find only misery and death, ********* I will write you again early in the month, at the tirae set for my departure — provided, as I hope, nothing comes up to prevent my starting. Once more I must beg you not to speak of my journey to Europe to any one in Belgium whomsoever, unless to our brother Charles. In the sweet expectation of seeing and embracing you, believe me for hfe, etc. St. Louis University, Dec. 4, 1861, My very dear Francis :" I am on the eve of a rather long journey and very busy, and as the winter besides is very severe, I have little time for writing letters. I am still without replies to several of mine, but I feel sure that you have written me and I at tribute their failure to reach rae to the unhappy circura- stances in which we find ourselves since ray return to America in April. Your letters may have gone astray, or been suppressed, which is the more probable; or perhaps mine have been held up. Who knows? I have received letters frora Felix and Elmire, with ample news of the fam ily, which have given me the utraost pleasure and consola tion araid the sad and confused spectacles that surround us. The American newspapers are placed under the strictest police supervision, for good motives, doubtless, and can give only false or mutilated reports, frora which you will obtain but a faint idea of the state of the war. I will say nothing in regard to this, you will easily guess why. But I will give some details concerning what is happening in Mis souri, where the horrors of civil war seem deeper than else 's From the French. 1432 HORRORS OF CIVIL WAR IN MISSOURI. where. It would be impossible to describe them in extenso and in all their blackness. Sensible men prophesied at the coramencement of our civil troubles that the people might expect horrible scenes, but without foreseeing probably the full extent. You have read of the horrors of the first French Revolution, histories of civil wars in various ages and countries, where every thing was turmoil and confusion and robbers and assassins had free and open field for murder and devastation of prop erty. All this will give you but a faint idea of the horrible situation to which Missouri finds herself reduced. Her own children, divided between the two great parties, the North and the South, are dipping their hands in blood and cutting one another's throats, burning and sacking one another's dwellings; while eneraies from outside enter the State to glut their insatiable vengeance, and to aid eagerly in the diabolical work of devastation and heighten still further the horrors and the misfortunes of the country. To-day it is a Federal leader who is taken and put to death ; to-morrow it may be a judge, sympathizing with the South, who will be assassinated in spite of his having a guard to protect him. At present there is little or no union among the citi zens of Missouri ; there is only hate and suspicion, and hence brigandages and vengeances without number and of every sort. The general-in-chief of the rebels in Missouri has just issued a manifesto in which he promises $200,000,000 in spoils to 50,000 brigands who will enlist under his standard. Means will be found I hope to withstand this wild Secessionist; but in any case he will do much harm. At this moment hundreds of families, poor, miserable and in want of everything are leaving the interior of the State and coming to take refuge in our city, or crossing into Illi nois, having been forced to leave their sacked and burned houses and fields. This is what the detestable secession has brought Missouri to, and we are yet only at the first page of its history. SHADOW OF THE WAR CLOUD, I433 If I have time I will write you from Washington or New York before long, to which places I am called by some little business matters. You absolutely must write me as soon as you can ; when I don't hear from you it raakes me sad and gloomy. If you have not received my long letters I will copy them off again. Your devoted brother, etc. December 23, 1861,* The universal aspect of our country is really sad and mournful. A year ago here was a great united nation, prosperous and fortunate, and from a raaterial point of view full of hope for its future glory ; to-day we see it in a man ner dislocated and reduced to fragments, and a beautiful land, once rich in the flowers and fruits of a peaceful agri culture, is now splashed with blood and blackened by de vastating fires. Examine the map of the United States that I left at St. Michael College ; throughout the great expanse from the Potomac to the Rio Grande and from the Atlantic to the Missouri, the voice of legal justice is dumb, replaced by the incessant sound of the beating drum and the deafen ing noise of artillery. In all this vast space the power of the law is de facto annulled. The law has had to make way for arms. Let us, however, take comfort; a piece of good news, coming from the highest source, announces that the calamities with which the land is afflicted are rapidly draw ing near their close; that the same almighty arm that sus tained the cause of Washington and his brave soldiers, to establish the glorious Constitution, will not be withdrawn frora their children in a not less difficult war for its raain- tenance. For the moment, assuredly, we live in the shadow of a very heavy cloud, black and gloomy, which seems to envelop the entire nation as in a shroud. But please God, ^ Extract from letter in French to Father Boeteman of Brussels. 1434 THE MASON AND SEIDELL AFFAIR. the eye of faith and patriotism may soon discern in the sombre cloud the bow of the promise, already announced to us, which is to envelop under its beautiful arch the coming of a calmer and more serene day. The hope of a speedy return to peace, order and law encourages and comforts us, in spite of our doubts and deep apprehensions. Just at present all eyes are turned toward England, What will she do in the Mason and SHdell affair? The characteristic motto of that nation toward America has al ways been "divide et inipera." For a long time past, and doubtless with this design, she has contributed largely to maintain abolitionism by annual contributions. The secret thought and all the efforts of la perUde Albion have always leaned toward overturning and breaking the Great Republic, whether in two fragments or raore, in order afterward to keep the new governments in endless disputes and quarrels, if not in open warfare one against another ; exploiting them meanwhile for her own interest. From the first indication of actual separation, England has never ceased to sympathize with the South, as the most effective means to succeed in her plans. She has encouraged the rebels in all ways, except formal recognition of their in dependent sovereignty, and it is only too evident that she lacks but a pretext to do that, or anything else that raay tend to dissolve the Union. Her indignation, apparently so virtuous and sincere, at the capture of Mason and Slidell, need not astonish any one ; nothing less was to be expected. If the English do not carry out their threats and engage in war with the United States, it will be because, after a sober second thought, they have corae to the conclusion that after all, in view of their own interests, it is better to let the Northern States alone. Altogether, judging by what one sees and hears, it is safe to say that our Americans feel easy with respect to Eng land, and show not the least fear. The substance of the English ultimatum, sent to Washington concerning the Mason and Slidell affair, is not yet known — sed quid quid HAVE NOT YET BEGUN TO FIGHT, I435 sit, those two gentlemen will not be set at liberty, neither will any apology be made for the taking of the Trent. If the English want to fight, why, they will fight. Where one volunteer presents himself to defend the flag against the rebels of the South, twenty will come forward with eager ness to march against the English. I am expressing to you the pure American thought. With regard to France joining with England — which seems likely enough — it should not be forgotten what France was able to do alone against the European coalition. Not only did she manage to defend herself against all the countries united, but she beat them on their own ground and besieged them in their capitals. " Surely," say our Americans, " we need not be frightened nor discouraged at the idea of a coalition of two powers who will have to send their armies 3,000 miles across the ocean to attack us." St. Louis University, February, 1863. Mr, Jos. Van Jersel, Utenhout, Holland:'' Very Worthy and Respectable Monsieur. — " Better late than never " says the old proverb. I shall say little by way of excuse for my delay in writing you. My occupations have been numerous and my journeys long; that is all that I can advance as an appeal to your indulgence and charity. To atone for my apparent negligence, I propose to write you a rather long letter. A few details regarding political matters in the United States, which the entire world is now watching, may perhaps be agreeable to you. * * * I will begin at the beginning : that is, since I had the honor of paying you a visit at Utenhout, in the midst of the snow toward the end of December, i860. On the 27th of March, 1 86 1, I said farewell to my brothers in religion and to my ^ From the French. 1436 THE FIRING ON FORT SUMTER, family and acquaintances and left Belgium. My journey to Paris and thence to Havre was agreeable and without ac cident. On the 30th I took my place on board the steamer Fulton, with my three companions. On Easter Sunday I had the consolation of offering the holy sacrifice of the mass, to commend us especially to God in the long and dangerous journey by land and sea that we had before us. On the 2d of April about noon the vessel ran in to Southampton, where it lay at anchor a good part of the day waiting for pas sengers and the mail. In the evening of the 4th we lost the coasts of England from view. It was still winter on the Atlantic and we had rough weather, but everything passed off favorabl}'^ and without accident. The days passed agree ably on board, in the society of very intelligent people, among whom I had the happiness of finding several old and good acquaintances. Nothing especially noteworthy came up to break the habitual raonotony of a long ocean voyage. I will only mention that in latitude 42° 11' and longitude 65° 39' we passed near an immense solitary iceberg, which resembled an ancient cathedral in ruins or an old chateau with dilapidated towers. So novel a sight, in the absence of any other, was certainly not without interest. We reached New York during the night of the I4th-i5th of April. A few hours before the arrival of the Fulton the great American metropolis had been thrown into the utraost con fusion and consternation by the news that Fort Sumter, in South Carolina, had been captured and the great star- spangled banner of the Union lowered and torn to pieces by the Southern rebels — an irremediable and ineffaceable insult in the eyes of all America. ********* When the insulting and arrogant outrage to the national flag was known, a nuraber of the Araerican passengers on the Fulton wept with rage, uttering imprecations and threats against the South. The scenes of which I was an eye-wit- THE UPRISING OF THE NORTH. I437 ness on landing moved me deeply ; but my career is not that of earthly weapons, and I abhor war. Mine are spiritual arras. I humbly offered my poor prayers to heaven that the aroused passions might be soothed and peace come anew to cement the old Union and restore tranquillity and happiness to a country forraerly so happy and prosperous. But " there is no peace." I left New York on the 17th of April and reached St. Louis on the 19th. Throughout that 1,000-mile journey nothing was heard save the rattle of arms and cries of war, repeated from one end to the other, in every town, city and village that we passed through, and from every height, steeple and housetop floated the insulted banner. Frora the statistics that have thus far been published, it is safe to assurae that half a million of men have already been killed or have died in the hospitals. The property sacked and destroyed on both sides, amounts to a great many millions of dollars. The cost of the war cannot be less than two to three millions a day, and it has been going on for nearly two years. God alone, in his raercy, can put an end to these bloody and deadly corabats. Thus far no one is able to see any outcorae for it, and the numerous battles have not had the slightest definite result. They seem urged on by hatred, without seeing that Union by force would be but a wliited sepulchre. It is a raost deplorable and hor rible war, in which brothers are called on to cut each others' throats and battles are often the merest butcheries. Whence has this war arisen, and in the midst of a pros perity incomparable on earth? The man who answers this question in all its details will have a long and difficult task. I will give you the iraraediate cause, as it appeared to me at the outbreak of the war. Two principal causes brought it about. The first is the question of the extension of negro slavery into the new ter ritories. The second is the tariff question. The South has always been more favorable to free trade than the North. I am persuaded that the tariff question counts for Httle in 1438 SLAVERY THE CAUSE OF THE WAR, the present rupture. The question of slavery is the prin cipal, perhaps the only one. The South wishes and declares that slavery must be protected like any other property-right in all the Territories belonging to the United States. The North opposes this doctrine and wishes to confine slavery to its present limits, and that is the great difficulty and the ostensible cause of the war. Senator Douglas and his party advocated that the decision concerning the introduction of slavery into the Territories and its protection there should rest with the citizens of those Territories. The ultra-South declared against this doc trine. The Cotton States wanted slavery protected in the Territories whether the citizens of those Territories (that is, the majority) desired it or not. This was the great cause of the division in the Democratic Convention at Charleston, which led to the nomination of two Democratic candidates for the presidency — Douglas and Breckenridge. The South, or the Breckenridge party, knowing that the Republican party would never consent to have slavery thus forced upon the Territories, and desiring to find a pretext for separation from the Union, insisted upon this question being decided in their favor, as a condition sine qua non of their fidelity to the Union. The consequence was that the two Democratic candidates were defeated in the election, and Mr. Lincoln, the Republican, elected upon the platform " that slavery should be protected where it existed, but should not be extended to the new Territories." After Lincoln's election South Carolina at once withdrew frora the Union, even in defiance to the Constitution of the United States. Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Texas followed this rebellious course. Afterward came Vir ginia, North Carolina, Tennessee and Arkansas. In fact it is probable that all the slave States would withdraw if they had the strength; namely, Maryland, Kentucky and Missouri. How has this question of slavery been able to produce re sults so surprising and deplorable, considering especially A QUARREL OF LONG STANDING. I439 that all the Territories suitable for slave labor were already in the hands of the advocates of slavery ? Slavery exists in the fifteen Southern States, which are the only ones, by the admission of the South itself, where it can exist advan tageously. Moreover the Territories of New Mexico and Arizona, the ones, as both parties agree, adapted to slave labor, were already in the hands of the Southerners. The Northern Territories, Washington, on the Pacific slope, Colorado, Dakota, Nevada, were and are unsuitable for slave labor, and no one has ever thought of introducing slavery into them. But the South insisted absolutely upon that privilege ; that is, upon the right to introduce slavery, even though it were useless and unreasonable. The South was striving for a point of honor, ridiculous and unreasonable — a point which she had no idea of carrying into effect. " What," you will say, " are the two great sections of the Union quarreling over a trifle?" I reply that this is only the pretext of the quarrel. The two sections were in bad humor against each other. The extreme party in the North, or the Abolitionists, whether orators, preachers or news paper editors, had covered the South with insults and op probrium. The South took offense at their insults; the Southern slaveholders were indignant at being called " bar barians, sinners, dealers in huraan flesh," etc. The South was deeply stirred over these accusations and at seeing the possession of slaves ranked as an iniquity. They therefore deterrained to break all the bonds which had united them for a great many years, and separate from a people who slandered them and their institutions, particularly that of slavery. Excited by passion, and in bad humor, the South ern States have abandoned the Union. That in ray hurable opinion is the origin and coramence- raent of the great quarrel or war which is now desolating the North and South of the United States. Whatever may be the original history of secession, and whether or not the South be right in having broken the bonds which attached it to the Union, a large number of our pro- 1440 NO ROOM FOR COMPROMISE. found statesmen grant her the right to act thus, in the name of the national sovereignty proclaimed by 8,000,000 of free men, and she has maintained this right by existing for two years as a nation. St, Louis, April 24, 1863. Most Dear Paul: I raust essay to write to you a letter in English. I wish you to study and apply yourself to acquire the knowl edge of that beautiful and almost universal language. Let me know how you make it out, which will decide the course of my writing. I will here sketch you a little view of the actual state and condition of the country and the principal cause of the war without entering into minor details. As I have written before, slavery is the undoubted cause of the war at present raging in the country. Perhaps no other cause could have produced it ; for though there have been sharp disputes between the different sections of the Union on the subject of the tariff, they were easily settled. Not so with slavery. Here, what one party looked upon as of divine origin and every way right, another party re garded as barbarous and wrong. There was and is no room for compromise on such a question-. Still the institution of slavery in the slave States was in no immediate danger, for the Constitution of the United States guaranteed its pro tection and the General Government would never have set the Constitution aside — indeed it has no power to do so. But the difficulty was about the Territories belonging to the United States. There is an immense territory sufficient to form several large States yet unsettled. The anti-slavery party, or Freesoil party, as it is called, concluded that slavery should not be extended to the Territories, though protected in the already formed States, The pro-slavery party de manded the right of carrying slavery to every foot of the STATE RIGHTS AND THE TERRITORIES. I44I Territory, The anti-slavery party, for the first time since the organization of the Government, triumphed in the elec tion of Mr, Lincoln to the presidency, and the pro-slavery party seceded from the Union, or rather I should say, ten or eleven of the fifteen slave States seceded and set up what they call a Confederate Government for themselves. What are called the border slave States, as Missouri, Kentucky, Western Virginia, Maryland and Delaware, have declared for the old Union; but they are made the battle-ground of the contending parties. It is evident that, according to the Constitution of the United States, no State has the right to secede frora the Union, The Union was intended to be perpetual. But the Secessionists contend that the States, as separate peoples, have, at any rate, the right of revolution when sufficient cause exists ; and they further contend that a sufficient cause does exist in the hostility of the free States to the institution of slavery. But I have already remarked that the General Government was bgund by the Constitution to protect slavery in the States where it existed. This is true ; but the slave States regarded the hostile feelings of the Northern people as a sufficient cause for the act of seces sion. They regarded the fact that they were excluded from the Territories as a sufficient cause. The truth is that the present state of the country is due to an angry controversy, long ago begun, on the subject of African slavery. Several compromises between the parties had been entered into, looking to the settlement of the dif ficulty; but the feeling reraained with the one party that slavery is right, and with the other that slavery is wrong. These two hostile feelings have culrainated in a revolution, or rebellion, the raost forraidable that the world has ever seen. What will be the end of it ? No one can say. One thing seems evident, namely, that slavery will be extin guished ; for though the General Government does not claim any constitutional power to interfere with the Constitutions in the States, yet, as a war power, as a means of putting 91 1442 UNION WILL TRIUMPH IN THE END, down the rebellion, the General Government does claim the power of liberating the slave; and hence the emancipation proclamation of the President more than six months ago. Thousands of slaves are raaking their escape from bondage and are now scattered over the free States. But how long the war will continue no one can tell. The General Governraent is greatly stronger than the revolted States, but these latter can defend their own soil against superior numbers. The General Government has an im mense fleet but the seceded States have strong fortifications. The resources of the General Government for sustaining armies in the field are vastly superior to those of the slave States, but the latter seera prepared for desperate extremes, Norfolk, Nashville, Memphis and New Orleans have been already captured by the Union forces, but many strongholds remain in the possession of the insurgents at this raoraent. According to the telegraph Charleston, South Carolina, is being bombarded anew ; the result is in great doubt. The bloodshed and the suffering caused by the war so far have been great. How could it be otherwise when the contending forces are counted by hundreds of thousands? God only knows what and when the end will be. Yet as the resources of the General Government are vastly superior to those of the seceded States, it is reasonable to conclude that the rebellion will finally, perhaps many years hence, be put down. One thing appears certain, either slavery or freedom must triumph in this gigantic contest. There will not be apt to be any more comproraises. Should the re bellion be subdued, slavery raay for a while linger in some of the States, but it will cease to be a great power and will gradually pass away. Slavery must either triumph in this war or be left in a condition which will insure its final ex tinction. Already the State of Missouri is on the eve of enacting eraancipation laws, and I have no doubt that the State convention, which I understand will shortly meet, will effect this object. The friends of the human race every- CALM RETURNING TO THE LAND, I443 where must feel a deep interest in the fate of the Great Republic and of African slavery. Your devoted uncle, PETER JOHN, St, Louis University, Sept, 23, 1865, My Very Dear Gustave:^ I have received your good letter of the 22d of June last, I think I have answered it in part. If I can trust my raera- ory, I believe I have sent you photographs of Lincoln and Johnson, You ask for details concerning political affairs in America, I am not in the habit of mingling in matters of this sort ; still I am glad to give you a little account of the course of the Governraent in emerging from a most ter rible and disastrous crisis, as it appears to ray mind. I will begin with my arrival in this country last June. On the 19th of the month we were in sight of Sandy Hook. The Araerican pilot had corae on board the night before with his bundle of newspapers. As soon as he set foot on deck he was besieged by the curious multitude eager to learn the recent great events. The papers were devoured and discussed with avidity, for we had many politicians on board, of both heraispheres, and a great nuraber of inter ested raerchants. I learned then, with consolation, and later events con firmed me in the thought, that calm and reflection were be ginning gradually to take hold of the masses, after the sad dest and most unfortunate of wars, and that law and order, with the total extinction of slavery, were being re-estab lished by degrees in the States where secession had caused so much destruction and so many misfortunes. The spon taneity of the Southern people, which had precipitated so great a number of States into rebellion, has produced like- 8 From the French. 1444 JOHNSON THE MAN OF THE HOUR. wise a general return of Union sentiment. No one in the South seems now to think of hostile undertakings against the Government, The majority of the people want nothing but a chance and raeans to get on their feet again. True statesmanship must tend to insure a solid peace and a dura ble prosperity. It is to be hoped that President Johnson, in his wisdom, will set aside the vengeful agitators (the radi cals) and then ere long the return to the Union will render this country more beautiful, prosperous and great than it ever has been. The war has been a great shock to the nation and very disastrous in its effects, but the wisdom of the President and the people will overcome it in the end, John son is beginning to inspire the greatest confidence. He ap pears to be the chosen man par excellence in these tiraes of agitation and political divisions, to impose, like his prede cessor, Andrew Jackson, his own individuality upon the administration of the Government. He will succeed in destroying the demarcation of the political parties, which have hitherto been too much in vogue in this country, and the hope is already felt that he will call to his aid a great national party, the motto of which will be " Solidity, Strength and Glory," for the reconstruction of the (for merly) United States. It is evident from all his acts that he has resolved to maintain the national union, honor and credit. Always in sympathy with the great masses and the nation's heart, there are good grounds for hoping that he will administer the Government upon large and real prin ciples, seeking the greatest good of the greatest number. Any attempt on the part of the radicals, who are seeking by any means to put obstacles in the way of his adminis tration, will end in their own confusion. The old proverb says sunt bona mixta malis, and that is the case to-day in Missouri. Upon emerging from the war and at the beginning of the return of peace we find our selves in fresh trouble and in a state of cruel uncertainty. This is the way of it. The radical party has installed itself, per fas et nefas, at the head of the State Government. The THE INIQUITOUS TEST OATH, I445 new Constitution, which has been adopted by a slender ma jority and which is publicly denounced as fraudulent, re quires the clergy of all denominations, all professors of semi naries and colleges and all school teachers of either sex (in cluding nuns) to take the following oath : " That they have at no time in the past uttered a word nor sympathized in any manner in favor of the rebellion," etc. Preaching and performing the marriage ceremony are expressly forbidden to the clergy by this law. The priests are generally agreed that, on principle, such an oath cannot be taken, because our authority does not emanate from the State and we cannot, without coraproraising the ecclesiastical estate, consent to take such an oath. No Catholic priest in Missouri will take it; the Protestant rainisters have generally done so. The penalty for those who refuse to take this abominable ex post facto oath is a fine of $500 and iraprisonraent. The Gov ernor has announced in a speech " that he has had the State prison enlarged and that the law shall be executed." If this cruel law is really enforced our churches will have to be closed and our schools and colleges will be ruined. We have thus far been left in peace at St. Louis, but in the interior of the State, in places where the radicals are in a majority, religious persecution is beginning to seethe. Four priests have been cited before their tribunals " for having preached the gospel " contrary to their iniquitous law. One of the priests is actually in prison, the other three have given bail. Two Sisters of Charity have also been cited before these famous judges " for having taught chil dren " and have been released under bail. Serious as this matter is, it has also its curious side; it is wonderful that a land so proud and jealous of its liberty can hatch so many tyrants of the lowest and most detestable kind. This law is at the same time so absurd that I am inclined to believe that the odious act, after a few vain efforts, will be smothered and expire after having seen the light of day. This black and infamous blemish in the Constitution of Mis souri will, it is hoped, react promptly upon its contrivers. 1446 FEARS OF FURTHER TROUBLE, The sad circurastances in which we find ourselves do not in the least interfere with our ordinary tranquillity. Each one keeps at his work as if nothing was plotting around us. This tyrannical law of Missouri being ex post facto is un constitutional and therefore null and contrary to the Con stitution of the United States, which prohibits laws of that sort. Meanwhile our churches remain open and we preach and administer the sacraraents as usual. Our college opened on the very day of the proraulgation of the law (the fourth of this raonth) with an attendance of about 600 pupils. We pray and keep our patience under the wings of the eagle, the emblem of the Constitution of the United States — or rather we repose without uneasiness under the safeguard of the Lord! May his holy will be accomplished in re gard to us ! ********* Your devoted uncle, etc. * ®A11 the world seeras ready to go to war. In the United States the agitation just at present is very great. There is a gleara of hope that President Johnson may succeed in the peaceable reconstruction of the Southern States; the elections in November will decide it. Among clear-sighted persons serious fears are felt that the radical party will move heaven and earth to keep itself in power, and that the shock will be terrible and fearful in its results. In Missouri we continue to be in a very critical state. The horrible test- oath, which forbids our preaching the gospel without taking it, continues in force. There are constant arrests and im- prisonraents. ********* 8 From letter in French to Terwecoren, August 24, 1866. FUTURE OF THE GREAT REPUBLIC, I447 "You say that you read with pleasure my Httle tales of missionary adventure araong the Indian tribes. A new volume (the fifth) is soon to gO' to press in New York; I will raake it my business tO' send you a copy as soon as it appears, I am working in my leisure moments on the his tory of the Potawatomi tribe, which will appear probably in the course of the next year and which shall likewise be sent you. You speak with enthusiasm of all that you hear and read of America and express a great desire to visit this beautiful region some day. Really, I do not think your travelers can give you any proper idea of what is going on in this coun try, nor of its progress toward grandeur and toward the lofty position which it must occupy one day among the na tions of the earth. The starry banner of the United States bears above it the emblera of grandeur, the American eagle, the same that the ancient Romans put upon their military standards, I have seen an old geographical chart, which shows the eagle soaring in the air above the great extent of North America, with the numerous islands adjacent to both coasts. He is casting a penetrating and greedy look over the vast Canada and all its dependencies, and his open beak seeras ready to snatch thera up. All those iraraense regions of which the United States occupy the centre rest under his shadow. His fine widespread tail covers all of Mexico and the adjoining regions as far as the Gulf of Darien and the Bay of Panaraa. And the two tips of his wings are dipped in the two oceans beyond San Domingo and the Sandwich Islands. And that is the grand future, perhaps not far off, to which the great American republic aspires, and which she will attain if she is wise. In Mexico, where the Emperor Napoleon improvised his celebrated comedy at a time when 10 Extract from letter in French to Henri and Clemence, November 3, 1866. 1448 TYRANNY OF THE RADICALS, he thought the United States permanently divided, it has come to a farce in spite of hira, and much more promptly and swiftly than he had intended. The " chez nous " will be " chez eux " in la belle France before the New Year ; and It is stated as a fact that Mexico will be put under a Yankee protectorate as a preliminary move to being joined to the States, The Irish Fenians in their great hatred for la perUde Albion are extremely active, and this at the very moment when the United States are claiming damages from Eng land for all the harm done their commerce during the war by the famous Alabama and her mates. This thorny ques tion must be decided soon and favorably, else the English will have all the Fenians on their hands in Canada, backed by the bayonets of 100,000 Yankee veterans. They would start to-morrow if the Government said the word. But the United States have one very dangerous weak side; they are too much led by party spirit, and they go in " neck or nothing." If they are not careful this party spirit must bring them to anarchy, toward which the radicals seem to-day to be traveling in haste. Things are at such a point here that our deep thinkers are looking for another civil war, which may become more disastrous than the first; should that calamity take place, the Great Republic will take long strides toward the ruin which she has so barely es caped. The radicals, without the least" patriotism, are deter mined to risk everj^hing, at any price, to maintain them selves in power. They are now working for the disfran chisement of all the conservatives opposed to their party, and to give votes to the recently enfranchised negroes who are still in a species of semi-barbarism, and to this end they are employing the most tyrannical and unjust measures. In the city of St. Louis they wish to proscribe 10,000 voters. If they succeed in erecting their infernal yoke, there are plenty of papers that proclaim that proscription of the Catholics will soon follow. We are already proscribed in PEACEFUL ELECTION OF GRANT. I449 Missouri, according to the Constitution of the State. We can no longer preach the gospel here without taking an im pious and iniquitous oath. It seems to date from the time of Nero, of Henry IV, of Germany, or Henry VIII, of England. All our churches, cemeteries, charitable institu tions, have to support enormous taxes, while all the sectarian establishments, including those of the Jews, are exempt frora taxation. That is what the much vaunted liberty of our grand and famous Republic has corae to. It is strange and startling to see the great number of tyrants and monsters she has been able to bring forth in so short a time. In Mis souri we are surrounded by German raagistrates of '48. Your devoted uncle, etc. Noveraber 10, 1868." On the 3d of this raonth we had the happiness of see ing the end of our great political agitations in the election of the new President. For raonths and weeks previous it seeraed as though we were on the eve of another civil war and as if the whole land would be deluged with blood. The day of the election arrived, a lovely day; the civil authorities closed all the drinking places and a vigilant police was on foot. To everybody's surprise the great day of the election was in St, Louis the quietest day of the year ; the next day the city reserabled raore a Belgian convent. Ever since the election an unparalleled tranquillity has succeeded the num berless menaces and all apprehensions of mobs and violence. I have never felt the least doubt of Grant's election. He is the future President and the choice of the people by a vast majority, and all seem now to accept hira cheerfully. Grant has already announced his motto, " Let us have peace," and it is hoped that he will apply himself with firm- 11 Extract from letter in French to Ch. DeCoster, Belgium. 1450 RADICALS MAY SHOW MODERATION, ness to re-establishing and conserving the old Constitution in all its integrity. The Democrats seera to expect this and it is quite possible that the radicals, who to-day fill all the lucrative offices with the assurance of holding them until the end of Grant's administration, will gradually let things drop back into their regular constitutional course. Let us wait patiently and hope. CHAPTER VII, RELIGIOUS PERSECUTION, Turbulent foreigners — The boasted liberty and tolerance of America — Anarchy has arrived — Mobs and violence — Predicts annexation of Cuba, Hawaii, Mexico and Canada — Contrasts material and moral con dition — The Know-nothings — The Church and party politics — Test Oath in bad odor — Supreme Court decision — Inequality of taxation. St. Xavier College, Cincinnati, Aug, 2, 1854, Dear Francis •} v HAVE just received your good letter, etc, ******* I am at present accompanying the Father Provincial in his visits to our establishments in Ohio and Kentucky. I shall be back in St. Louis about the 20th of this raonth. The heat has been excessive in Cincinnati for the last raonth, A very large nuraber of people have died from sunstroke, twelve yesterday. For ray part I suffer greatly, and find no solace save in the bathtub. There is much excitement everywhere in the United States against our holy religion, and as fast as the radicals and reds arrive from Europe the excitement increases. Several churches have been set on fire already and there is open talk of murder and pillage. Every day the papers tell of attacks on Catholics, especially on the Irish. It is cer tain that a priest cannot appear on the streets in Cincinnati without being insulted by renegade Germans, Swiss and Italians. These gentleraen are in their element in the States. As soon as they are able and can gather the force, a system of persecution unknown as yet in America will be estab lished, *p Sp ^C SfC S|£ 3^ 3jC 3|C 3|C 1 From the French. [1451I 1452 AN INVITATION TO NEW MEXICO, St, Louis University, Nov, 28, 1854, My dearest Elmire:" I have received your dear letter, etc, ********* I have no great personal news to impart just at present, I am quite well, I thank God, I am now in Ohio, now in Kentucky, sometimes in the extreme western part of the State of Missouri. Our colleges, residences and missions are very far apart, and I have to go with the Father Provincial in all his visits. Though I have my head and hands always full of business, it is not of a nature to overburden rae and I ara always happy araong my brothers in all the different districts. There is one thing, however, that gives me anxiety from time to time. I hold the general or comraon purse and have to supply all needs ; and this purse is never full; the greater part of the time it is flat; while I receive demands from all sides, especially from our poor Indian missions. Those poor Indians are always present to my thoughts, I frequently receive letters and very pressing in vitations from them to return among them. Last September the Bishop of New Mexico, on his re turn from Rome, was absolutely determined to take me along with hira araong the tribes of the Pueblos, Comanches and Navajos, who occupy a great territory in his vast dio cese. He had been authorized to that effect by our superiors in Europe; but I could not at that moment leave my post here. It is probable, and I hope, that in the course of com ing spring I shall be able to return once more among the , , , Indian tribes, especially those who have been thus far most forsaken. Poor unfortunates ! They are deprived of all re ligious succor, of all instruction and consolation. They are indeed deserving of pity. Pray often for their conversion. I cannot say much of the United States. This vast land, with all its advantages, must grow great and mighty. No doubt the European papers speak of it often ; but the Ameri- 2 From the French, AN OUTRAGE IN KANSAS. I453 can liberty and tolerance, so highly boasted, exist less in this Great Republic than in the most oppressed country of Europe, Catholic churches are burned and those who try to prevent it are assassinated. In the city of Ellsworth they snatched one of our Fathers from his abode; despoiled him of all his coats; tarred and feathered hira and afterward rode him upon a rail. He was borne up the principal streets of the place, with the most outrageous and indecent in sults. All the city applauded it — this horrible scene. They made it a crime to this priest to come and preach and say mass to the Catholics ! St, Joseph's College, April 19, 1855. Dear Charles and Mimi :' It is really a long time since I have received a letter from you, I have written you often, too, and to Sylvie, Elmire and Rosalie, and I am waiting impatiently for some news from the family. I fear that your thoughts and those of my nearest and dearest nieces turn but seldom toward America, where you have a brother who thinks of you constantly and never ceases to form vows for your happiness and theirs. An expedient has occurred to me, which I hope may prove successful. In January I wrote to our correspondent in New York to send you by the first boat for Antwerp, in Mr. Key's care, the latest and handsomest map of the United States, It has been on the way since February, and Gustave Van Kerkhove has been charged with looking after it when it arrives. Well, then, you are to hang this map somewhere in your house where it will be in plain sight, and I am sure you will think oftener of me, who have lived for so raany years in this country, and have ranged over this vast region from New York to the mouth of the Columbia, and from New Orleans to Halifax in Nova Scotia and as far as the glaciers 3 From the French. 1454 ANARCHY AND EXCESSES, of the Athabasca north of the Rocky Mountains. You will let your eyes travel over what I have traveled in reality, in many different fashions and araid thousands and thou sands of dangers ; in ocean vessels, in stearaboats, in skiffs, in bark canoes, in dugouts ; in vehicles of every description, on railroads, on horseback and on foot. Last year I had planned to resume my travels in the desert in the course of the present spring ; but a war* of extermina tion against the Sioux and several other tribes is soon to take place, which obliges rae to defer my journey until better times. Poor, unfortunate Indians ! They will have a ter rible adversary to raeet with; their chances are but sraall; they are drawing near their last scene. It matters not how great the provocations and wrongs of the whites against the Indians ; the latter are always the dupes and victims. It is thus in this present case, I lately wrote to Francis that we were advancing rapidly toward anarchy; we are there already. Everything indi cates a violent persecution of our holy religion. Our churches are being burned ; Catholics, priests and nuns are publicly insulted; preparations are being made in certain places for more terrible excesses. Mobs are the order of the day, Poole, a prizefighter, is murdered by a tough of his own species, in New York, and demonstrations and honors are paid this wretch at his interment, such as no President of the United States has ever received. It was a true ova tion, in which thousands tumed out to take a part. It is evident that such a state of things cannot last long. Liberty, in this country, is a perversion of the word ; it is rather pure license which has got the upper hand and is advancing with head in air. The unhappy land is flooded with crimes and misdeeds of every sort. Every honest man's heart bleeds, but they are in a great minority. The Protestant min isters in general, and the Presbyterians or Calvinists es- * The Harney campaign against the Sioux as a result of the Grattan Massacre. See footnote, p. 1216. AMERICA TENDS TO EXTREMES, I455 pecially, are the great instigators and promoters of all sorts of outrages and of an open persecution of the Catholics, Your devoted brother, etc. St, Louis University, July lo, 1855. Conway : Most Honorable Sir. — Owing to my long absence from St. Louis I have delayed answering your very kind favor for which indeed I feel very grateful and thank you sincerely. I learned with the greatest pleasure, that both you and your lady are in the enjoyment of good health, and am happy to know that the raaps of the United States, etc., have reached you. It would afford me at all times the greatest satisfaction to render you any service in my power, either in the trans mission of information or otherwise, as may be raost accept able to you. Coramand rae, I shall consider it as a great honor and a very agreeable task. A few passing reflections on Araerica, by one who has been an inhabitant of it since 1821, and a quiet observer of passing events, who never raeddled, but with his poor little raissions and their cares around hira, raay perhaps afford you a raoment's pleasure; and with this alone in view, though grieved myself at the actual aspect of affairs in this country — for we live in a state of uneasiness, hanging between hope and fear — I send them to you. Nowhere on the globe is the spirit of progress so rife; the go-ahead, railroad, and lightning principle in such full operation, and popular opinion so omnipotent as in this country. Nowhere else on earth are to be found, in the same comraunity, so raany elements of discord, so many isms ; and ultraisra is the culmination of all other isms, and the besetting evil of the day. In politics, raorals, social intercourse, religion, everything, the tendency is to ex tremes. The United States would truly be the wonder of the world, if the moral condition of the country were to 1456 RISE AND GROWTH OF TOWNS. correspond with the marvelous unfolding of its material resources ; with the astonishing increase of its inhabitants ; with its iraraense and almost unbounded territory which threatens eventually to swallow Cuba and its numerous islands around, and the Sandwich Islands in the Pacific. In the long run, it must incorporate the whole of Mexico and will not rest till the two Canadas have been added to the mighty confederacy. Add to all this the wonderful prosperity of its ever-increasing commerce and wealth. Scarcely seventy years have rolled by since the whole country west of the Alleghany Mountains, now filling up with a dense population, was one continued wilderness, the abode of numerous Indian tribes, which, like the snow before the rising sun, have melted and disappeared at the approach of their ever dreaded foes, the pale-faced Euro pean settlers or their descendants. — On the waters of the lakes and rivers which drain the middle or great Missis sippi valley, on which at present are seen hundreds of beautiful steamers and thousands of crafts of various di mensions, crowded with passengers and laden with the rich produce of various climes, a few years ago was raet the solitary Indian canoe, descending or slowly ascanding the rivers and crossing the lakes, with its small band of savage painted warriors adorned with eagle feathers and armed with bows and war clubs. How wonderful the change ! Now, along these same waters, hundreds of cities and villages are springing up with the utmost speed and rapidity, as if by enchantment. I have known St. Louis, Cincinnati, Pittsburg, when comparatively small villages; the number of inhabitants in each will soon reach over 200,000. Ten years ago Chicago and Milwaukee were only little trading posts, hardly thought of or known; the first counts already 80,000 and the latter 40,000 inhabitants. All these great cities are perfect bee-hives, filled with in dustry. As you travel along these waters, or penetrate into the interior, you find the forests fast disappearing and large and beautiful parks and fields taking their place, with THE KNOW-NOTHING PARTY. I457 their farms and barns filled with grain, well stocked with numerous herds of horned cattle, or with sheep and large bands of horses. Railroads and macadamized roads are crossing in all directions, English, Irish, German, French, emigrants from every country and from every clime, have come here in the hope of bettering their condition in life, a prospect which they could never realize in the country of their birth, owing chiefly to its dense population. The moral aspect, however, of this country differs widely from the picture drawn of its raaterial prosperity ; for here all the European vices and crimes are found, I dare say, more deep and dark. The depraved, the criminals let loose, or who have escaped from justice, the vagabonds and scum of every country come here to find a congenial home and only serve to increase that moral disorganization which the numerous American Protestant sects, Mormonism in cluded, were fomenting already so much by their destruc tive principles. In a country which prides itself on its unbounded lib erality and liberty we might have hoped that the Catholic religion, if not protected, would at least have been screened from persecution. This is no longer the case. A party has arisen under the name of " Know-nothings," the prin cipal aim of which appears to be, should they be able to reach it, to crush our holy religion throughout the land. The members of this secret society are bound by abominable oaths and extend their innumerable branches through every State. It may be said, in general, that the ministers of all the different Protestant sects belong to it; many have be come notorious by exciting the rioters in various parts to burn churches; to insult publicly priests and even religious ladies [sisters, nuns, etc.] ; they are trying every nerve to bring forward a code of anti-Catholic blue laws; and threaten to establish inquisitorial tribunals wherever their power might extend. This picture, sad and shameful as it may appear in this nineteenth century, is not, however, without its better side, 92 1458 EXCITEMENT WILL ABATE The American nation is a great, imitative people ; they can not live without some or other great excitement. In their time Fanny Elssler, the dancer, and Jenny Lind, the singer, were idolized by them and called divine, Kossuth was the idol during six months; he tried with success his fortune at it, and he issued bonds and gathered a good round purse while his excitement lasted. In short, he returned to Eu rope incognito, leaving his dupes ashamed of themselves for having been so craftily humbugged by that greatest humbug of the age, as he now stands here acknowledged by even his once greatest admirers. The present anti- Catholic excitement, though of a very different nature from the above facts, can possibly not last long; other matters may soon present themselves that will attract more and all their attention. The anti-Catholic movement of England is only aped at, at present, in the United States. Witness the ridiculous nunnery questions in both countries, Eng land had the wisdom to leave it alone and the Yankee leg islating parsons of Boston burned their fingers at it and are now held forth to scorn by their very adherents who placed them in office. At first I feared that the Know-nothing movement would prove disastrous to the Catholic church. I feared that the great majority of the American people, constituted as it is by Protestants and quasi infidels and those in general who take no thought of religion, would unite to put down the Church. This fear was increased by the recollection of the facts that mobs had burned convents and churches with impunity in some of our eastern cities, I saw no hope for Catholicity but in the promise : " Lo ! I am with you all days," etc. But now, even humanly speaking, I feel con fident that instead of being injured, the Church will be bene fited by this Know-nothing warfare against it. Political parties are generally tolerably equally divided. Recent State elections have shown that Know-nothingism is not all- powerful and it is raore than probable that the majority of the American people will be found on the side of those prin- AND PROTESTANTISM SUFFER IN THE END, I459 ciples with which Catholicity in this country has been identi fied. The Church identifies itself with no political party, but her enemies, the Know-nothings, have assailed all who are opposed to them as the tools and minions of the Pope and Church, Know-nothingism includes Protestantism in all its shades and degrees, from Episcopalianism to the most inconsiderable sect. Its fundamental principle is opposi tion to the Church, opposition to foreigners is a secondary malice. A Protestant foreigner raakes the best, or rather the worst sort of a Know-nothing. Now I firmly believe that the result of this political agita tion will be that thousands will become Catholics, and that tens of thousands will have their prejudices removed, who, but for the present state of things, would remain enemies of the Church because ignorant of her claims. Already I perceive a disposition on the part of the great party op posed to the Know-nothings, to defend the Church with which they have been nolens volens identified. The Derao- crats (for they constitute the raajority of the anti-Know- nothing party) will feel bound to look into the question of Catholicity in order to meet the objections, arguments and misrepresentations of their opponents. Moreover they will sympathize with the Catholics; they will becorae hostile to Protestantisra in general ; it will be their interest and pleas ure to expose its frailties and follies. Woe to Protestantism when men of sense begin to examine it with the disposition to find fault with it! Woe to it when fact and logic and ridicule are brought to bear upon it ! It is needless to say that all that is necessary in order to conviction to the supe rior claims of the Catholic Church is that these claims be exarained without prejudice. These claims will be thus examined, now perhaps for the first time, by vast masses of the people, and be assured that the result will be a glorious one for the cause of truth. The conflict which the preach ers mainly have brought on will well-nigh annihilate their influence and strengthen the Catholic Church in the United States, For such a result I confidently look. 1460 INTERESTING DETAILS OF A DUKE, Permit me, on the present occasion, to express to you my most sincere thanks and gratitude for the many favors you have so kindly bestowed on me during my visits to my native land, I shall never forget the interview you pro cured me with his highness, the Duke of Brabant, We pray daily at the holy altar, during the sacrifice of mass, that the Lord raay preserve this most Christian Prince, and his august family, for the welfare and happiness of Bel gium, and may continue to grant them his choicest bless ings. We receive regularly the Precis Historiques of Father Terwecoren, which frequently gives very interesting details of the Duke and Duchess, and which we always peruse with the greatest pleasure. Please present my kindest regards and respects to Mrs. Conway, and believe me to be, etc. November 26, 1866,' ¦•I* *!* 3(C 3|C ^ 5fC S|C y^ ^C My personal views are not worth speaking of. You know the routine of our houses — we get up early in the morning ; about ten o'clock in the evening we go to bed ; in the meantime every one works at his little tasks. My health is, thank God, pretty good just at present, I seldom have recourse to the doctor and still less often to his drugs. Two little bottles have stood full on my mantel for the last three months to bear witness that the druggist has been appealed to in my behalf. Thus far I have done noth ing but look at them and take care that they do not evapo rate, for perhaps I might want them later. I shall soon enter upon my sixty-seventh year, an age when ordinarily the overcoat covers a multitude of infirmities. I shall end in believing that I bear my years pretty well, for everybody B Extract from letter in French to Nephew Paul, RELIGIOUS PERSECUTORS RESTRAINED, I461 tells me so, and I only make them laugh when I try to assure them that my end is drawing near. ********** You ask me about the political situation in the United States. I gave you some details in my last letter. Since then the elections have taken place, and despite the for midable opposition of a pronounced majority, the radical minority has won a signal victory. Nobody wonders at it ; the radicals hold the power and make use of it per fas et nefas without the least scruple, and risk and dare every thing regardless of the consequences to the country to per petuate their odious power. The thing that is especially agitating the Union at this moment is the tendency of the radicals to try at any cost to crush the South entirely. The Southerners risked every thing in their efforts to separate from the Union while pre serving their honor intact, and to-day, conquered and yield ing, they have returned heart and soul to the Union, attached to the Government and desiring only peace; and the radicals seek to impose conditions upon their return so humiliating and impracticable that the South looks on them with horror and will never accept them. Should the radicals succeed in their schemes, it is evident that the land is making rapid progress toward anarchy and all the inevitable miseries that it brings with it. As far as religious persecution is concerned, what I think is this : The radicals will not find it easy to bring it about in a land where the spirit of liberty of conscience established by Washing ton is still held in great honor. Every one fears, and with reason, that after the Catholics his own turn would corae. At the last Missouri elections the radicals must have seen that the impious test-oath which the priests refuse to take, is in very bad odor even among the greater part of our Protestant sectarians. But for the unjust and iniquitous disfranchisement of 25,000 conservative voters, the new 1462 DISCRIMINATION IN TAXATION, State Constitution with all its impious, anti-Christian, un just and tyrannical laws would be already overturned and trampled under foot. Opposition to this radical persecution is so strong in St. Louis that up to the present they have not dared to invoke their impious laws against the Catholics, etc. January 26, 1867,® ********* Minds are still very much agitated in the United States. You will have learned from the papers that a radical ticket was elected, by means of fraud at the last Missouri elec tions and that we are at the mercy of these gentlemen, A good case has just been decided finally by the Supreme Court, Five judges out of nine pronounced against the execrable test oath; so to-day we can preach the Lord's gospel without hieing exposed to fines or imprisonment. Taxes, however, continue to weigh heavily upon Catholic institutions, while those of the Protestants and Jews are exempt. Our University of St. Louis has had to pay an enormous tax, about $6,000, whereas the Presbyterian uni versity alongside of us does not pay a cent. Our orphan asyluras, hospitals, poor-schools, suffer greatly in this way. That is how matters stand with us in the great and famous Republic, But we do not despair of a better future, 6 Extract from letter in French to Ch. De Coster, Heyndonck, Bel gium. CHAPTER VIII, UNCLASSIFIED LETTERS LARGELY PERSONAL, First aspirations for mountain travel and labor — Bad Hand Fitz patrick — A glimpse of Ireland in 1843 — Writes Dr. McLoughlin about missions — Charles Larpenteur about his soul — Zephyr Rencontre about the Sioux — Draws his own portrait — The devil and jokeS — Advice to an intending Oregon emigrant — A puzzling letter to a Pro vincial — Answers charges made against his writings — Denig's studies — Bridger's children — A relaxation — Old friends up the river — Has drawn some maps — Dining with the great — An interview with Presi dent Lincoln — Gold in the mountains — Pleads for Sioux murderers — The Jesuits and the war-draft — Tells at last what he knows about gold — The southwestern Indians — Gratitude and a meerschaum — About authorship of his letters — Early Nebraska history — The Church and Indian agents — Last plans. Reverend and Very Dear Father in Jesus Christ:^ RECEIVED your letter of July early this month. I was beginning to fear that you too had deferred your an swer to the Greek calends. Will you believe it, Reveren Headquarters, Departraent of Oregon, Fort Vancouver, W. T., June I, 1859, Sir: I have the honor to report, for the information of the general-in-chief, the arrival at this place, on the 28th ultimo, of a deputation of Indian chiefs from the upper Pend d'Oreilles, lower Pend d'Oreilles, Flatheads, Spokans, Colville, and Cceur d'Alene Indians, on a visit, suggested by myself through the kind offices of the Reverend Father De Smet, who has been with these tribes the past winter, and has counseled them, both as an agent of the Govern ment and in his clerical capacity, as to the advantages ac cruing to them by preserving peaceable and friendly rela tions with the whites at all tiraes. These chiefs have all declared to me the friendly desires which now animate them toward our people, and they assure me that their own several tribes are all anxiously awaiting their return, to confirm the peace and good will they are hereafter determined to preserve and maintain. Two of these chiefs, — one of the upper Pend d'Oreilles and the other of the Flatheads, — report that the proudest boast of their respective tribes, is the fact that no white man's blood has ever been shed by any one of either nation. This state ment is substantiated by Father De Smet, The chiefs of 1576 HARNEY ABOUT THE CHIEFS, the Other tribes mentioned state their people now regret they had been so deceived and deluded as to go to war with the whites the past year. They tender the raost earnest assur ances that such will never be the case again. All of these chiefs assert there will be no difficulty for the future as regards the whites traveling through their country, or in the occupation of it. They request the Governm.ent to secure a reservation to their people, upon which they desire to live and be protected, Kamiakin, the noted chief of the Yakimas, came in with these chiefs as far as Fort Walla Walla, with the intention of surrendering himself to my custody, but in consequence of an officious interference with these Indians on the part of Mr. T , agent for the Flatheads, Kamiakin became alarmed, and returned to his people. No censure is to be attached to Karaiakin for this act, and I have caused him to be notified that I am satisfied with his present peaceful intentions, * * * * I have also the honor to inclose a copy of Father De Smet's report as to the Indian tribes he has visited the past winter, which shows that peace exists among themselves as well as with the whites ; and from my own observation I am convinced that with proper care, another Indian war of any magnitude cannot soon occur in this department. It gives rae pleasure to commend to the general-in-chief the able and efficient services the Reverend Father De Smet has rendered, I am. Sir, very respectfully. Your obedient servant, W. S. HARNEY, Brigadier-General Commanding. Assistant Adjutant-General, Headquarters of the Army, N. Y. City. TRIBUTE TO DE SMET's SERVICES, 1577 Letter of Captain Pleasonton. Headquarters, Department of Oregon. Fort Vancouver, W, T,, June I, 1859, My Dear Father: The general commanding instructs rae to inclose a copy of his special order. No. 59, of this date, authorizing you to return to St. Louis, through the different tribes of the in terior, which you are so desirous to visit once again, for the purpose of confirraing thera in their good disposition toward the whites, as well as to renew their zeal and in telligence in the eleraents of Christianity, — the means so signally productive of good-will and confidence, in your labors of the past winter, requiring such self-denial and resolution. On your arrival in St, Louis, the general desires you to report by letter to the adjutant-general at Washington, when your relations with the military service will cease, unless otherwise ordered by the War Department. The general is anxious that I should communicate to you the deep regret with which he feels your separation from the service, and in making the announcement he is assured the same feeling extends to all those who have in any way been associated with you. By the campaign of last summer submission had been conquered, but the embittered feelings of the two races, ex cited by war, still existed, and it remained for you to supply that which was wanting to the sword. It was necessary to exercise the strong faith which the red man possessed in your purity and holiness of character, to enable the general to evince successfully toward them the kind intentions of the Government, and to restore confidence and repose to their minds. This has been done; the victory is yours, and the general will take great pleasure in recording your services 1578 HARNEY ON DE SMET's REPORT, at the War Department ; for such services no one feels more sensibly than yourself the proper acknowledgment is linked with the hopes that are cherished in the fulfillment of a Christian duty. Satisfied that all necessary blessings will be bestowed upon you, in whatever sphere of duty you may be called to serve, the general will always be happy to tender to you the evidences of his esteem and friendship, I remain. Father, with the highest respect. Your most obedient servant, A, PLEASONTON, Captain Second Dragoons, A. Adjt.-Gen. Reverend P. J. De Smet, S. J., Chaplain, etc.. Fort Vancouver, W. T. Headquarters, Department of Oregon. Fort Vancouver, W, T,, June 3, 1859. Sir: I have the honor to inclose, for the information of the general-in-chief, an interesting report from the Rev erend P. J. De Smet, describing the country of upper Wash ington Territory, in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains, now occupied by various Indian tribes. This report is valuable from the rare advantages Father De Sraet possessed for many years, in his position as rais sionary araong those tribes, to obtain accurate information of the country ; and his purity of character will always give respect and importance to his statements. The description he gives of the upper Clarke's Fork, the St. Mary's or Bitter Root valley, the valley of Hell's Gate A RATIONAL RESERVATION SCHEME. 1 579 Fork, the upper valleys on the headwaters of Beaver river, and the Kootenai country, in connection with his suggestion of collecting the remnants of the Indian tribes in Oregon and Washington Territories in that region upon a suitable reservation, is well worthy the serious consideration of the Government, The country spoken of will not be occupied by the whites for at least twenty years; it is difficult of access, and does not offer the same inducements to the settler that are every where presented to him on the coast. The system adopted in California of placing large nura bers of Indians upon a single reservation, and causing them to adopt summarily the habits of life of the whites, failed in consequence of the abrupt transition brought to bear upon these simple and suspicious people. The plan proposed by Father De Smet is not open to this objection; it places the Indians in a country abounding with game and fish, with sufficient arable land to encourage them in its gradual culti vation; and by the aid of the raissionaries at present with thera, that confidence and influence will be established over their minds, by degrees, as will induce them to submit to the restraints of civilization, when the inevitable decree of time causes it to pass over them. From what I have observed of the Indian affairs of this department the raissionaries araong them possess a power of the greatest consequence in their proper government, and one which cannot be acquired by any other influence. They control the Indian by training his superstitions and fears to revere the religion they possess, by associating the benefits they confer with the guardianship and protection of the Great Spirit of the whites. The history of the Indian race on this continent has shown that the raissionary succeeded where the soldier and civilian have failed ; it would be well for us to profit by the lessons its experience teaches, in an instance which offers so raany advantages to the white as 1580 MUCH MISSED IN THE ARMY, well as to the red man, and adopt the wise and humane suggestion of Father De Smet, I am, sir, very respectfully, your most obedient servant, W, S, HARNEY, Brigadier-General Commanding. Assistant Adjutant-General, Headquarters of the Army, New York City. Fort Vancouver, Nov. 9, 1859. My Dear Father: Your very kind and interesting letter of October 5th from St. Louis University was received by the last mail; and what may appear a little singular to you, I was discussing in my mind the propriety of writing to you when your good ness in sending me your letter relieved me from all doubts on the subject of your safe arrival at the end of your long trying journey. Permit m.e to assure you that no one has taken a deeper interest in your welfare and success than rayself; it has been tinged with regret that I was unable to do so little in promoting the one or advancing the other; but now that you have triumphed over all your difficulties my satisfaction is the greater from the signal proofs you have shown how thoroughly you have understood the divine mission of charity intrusted to your keeping. How pleas ant it raust be for you to view all your good works and observe their benefits to others? For such were the labors our Saviour referred to when he spoke of " The one thing needful " to Martha. We all miss you so much; I have not met an officer of your acquaintance who has not expressed great regret at your departure, and we all feel indebted to you for the good understanding that exists between the poor Indians and the whites at this time. No disturbance of any kind has oc curred and I feel confident there will not be any. THE MAPS TO BE PUBLISHED. I581 Fathers Congiato and Brouillet dined with us yesterday ; they both desired to be most kindly reraerabered to you. Father Congiato is to spend the winter in California and will return to the raountains in the spring, I have sent the raaps to Washington and Governor Ste vens has promised to have them published. Your sketch of the Coeur d'Alene Mission I inclose; pardon me for having retained it so long. The general desires me to express his warraest reraem- brances of the good offices you accoraplished for his com mand and he assures you of his highest esteera and friend ship always. For myself, I felt in separating from you the loss I incurred, for your benevolence and goodness deeply impressed me and disposed my waywardness to desire the same. Let me then cultivate your friendship in the hope of realizing from my honest intentions the unspeakable benefits that fixed principles of virtue and religion always confer. With my humble prayers to God, to continue his bless ings to you, I reraain, my dear Father, with the kindest feel ings of consideration and esteera. Your sincere friend, A. PLEASONTON. The Reverend P. J, De Smet, S. J., St. Louis University, St. Louis, Mo. Headquarters, Department of Oregon, Fort Vancouver, W, T,, June I, 1859, Special Orders No. 59. I, The Reverend P. J. De Smet, chaplain, etc., hav ing accomplished in a highly satisfactory manner the important duties confided to his charge in Special Orders No. 4 of October 28, 1858, from these headquarters, and 1582 FAVORITE OF SCHOOLCRAFT AND WEED, being now desirous of returning to his clerical station at Saint Louis, visiting the various Indian tribes of the in terior in his route ; he is authorized to do so. Commanders of posts and others belonging to this Department will af ford every facility and assistance to the Reverend Father, when called upon by him to aid in his mission of peace to the unfortunate race whose confidence he has always most generously maintained, ********* By order of General Harney, A. PLEASONTON, Captain Second Dragoons, A. A., Adjt.-Gen. Reverend P, J, De Smet, My Dear Governor: This will be presented by the Reverend Father De Smet, the heroic missionary of the Indians among the Rocky Mountains. He was a great favorite of poor Schoolcraft and Mr. Weed on our voyage across the Atlantic in 1843, He is the same guileless Indian missionary now as he was then. Ever yours faithfully, X JOHN, Hon. William V. Seward, New York, July 14, 1861, Abp, of New York, New York, Aug, 28, Dear Sir: My friend, Father De Smet, whom I think you saw a year ago, has just returned from a visit to his Indians beyond the Rocky Mountains and can impart useful information to you. INTRODUCED TO LINCOLN BY WEED. 1 583 No white man knows the Indians as Father De Smet, nor has any man their confidence in the same degree. I hope that you have sufficient leisure to give Father De Smet an audience. Very truly yours, THURLOW WEED, President Lincoln, Department of the Interior, Office of Indian Affairs, March 21, 1864, Reverend P, J, De Smet, St. Louis, Missouri: Sir. — This department has raade arrangeraents with P, Chouteau, Jr,, & Co., of your city to transport the annual supplies for the Indians bordering upon the Missouri river, and it is expected that the boat with them will leave St, Louis between the ist and loth of September next. Referring to our conversation at the last interview, I have now to state that I ara desirous of availing myself of your experience upon the subject of our relations with the Indians generally, and your knowledge of the character and habits, as also of your influence over the particular bands of the Sioux who have given us so much trouble in Dalcota, and to solicit you to accompany the expedition with the hope that they may be induced to lay down their arms and estab lish peaceful relations with the Government. It is believed that you can safely visit them in their camps and convey to them any message that the Government may wish to send them either from the Interior or War Depart ments. You will be accompanied by the agents of these people. It is also believed that an expedition under orders from the War Departraent will either accompany you or be in the country during your stay so that you may be able with the agent Latta to confer and co-operate with the com- raander of said expedition as to the best course to be pur- 1584 GENERAL STANLEY'S TRIBUTE. sued to put a stop to the depredations of the Indians and to secure a permanent peace with them, ********* Tell them how good it is to be at peace with the Govern ment, whereas their utter extermination will be the result if they continue in hostility to the white people, I have very great confidence in your prudence and capac ity for this mission and therefore forbear to give you specific instructions for your guidance. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, W, P, DOLE, Commissioner. Fort Sully, Dakota Territory, July 12, 1864.* H. G. Monseigneur Archbishop Purcell : Monseigneur. — Herewith I send you a testimonial which the Peace Commission, lately sitting at Fort Rice, has given to our well-beloved missionary, Father P, J. De Sraet. Probably you are informed in regard to the work of this commission during the last year. In the month of May of the current year the coramission succeeded in convoking at P'ort Laramie, on the Platte river, a certain number of chiefs belonging to the most formidable and most warlike tribes. The Hunkpapas, however, still refused to enter into any ar rangement with the whites, and it is unnecessary to say that no treaty with the Sioux was possible, if this large and hostile tribe was unwilling to concur in it. In this condition of affairs, the Reverend Father De Smet, who has conse crated his life to the service of the true religion and of humanity, offered himself, despite his great age, to endeavor to penetrate to the hostile camps and to use his influence with the chiefs to induce them to appear before the com mission at Fort Rice. As the letter of the members of the * From the French of the third Belgian edition. The original of Gen eral Stanley's letter was not available to the editors. ONLY MAN THE INDIANS HAVE LOVED, 1 585 commission will inform you, there is reason to believe that his iriission has been wholly successful, I could give you only an imperfect idea of the privations and dangers of this journey, unless you were acquainted with the great plains and the Indian character, which is naturally inclined to vengeance. Father De Smet, alone of the entire white race, could penetrate to these cruel savages and return safe and sound. One of the chiefs, in speaking to him while he was in the hostile carap, told hira, " if it had been any other raan than you. Black-robe, this day would have been his last," The Reverend Father had with him, as interpreter, Mr. Galpin, who is married to an Indian woman of the Hunk- papa tribe. This lady is a good Catholic and an excellent person, a striking example of what the influence of religion and civilization can accomplish for the welfare of the In dian. On leaving Fort Rice, Father De Smet had to direct his course straight west. The eneray had pitched his carap a little above the raouth of the Yellowstone river, near Powder river. The distance to be traveled, going and com ing, was 700 miles. The country is a barren desert. Nothing in the way of vegetation is to be seen save sage brush, the artemisia of the plains. No buffalo are to be found except along the Yellowstone, where they are very numerous. The Reverend Father is known among the Indians by the narae of " Black-robe " and " Big Medicine Man." When he is among them he always wears the cassock and crucifix. He is the only man for whom I have ever seen Indians evince a real affection. They say, in their simple and open language, that he is the only white man who has not a forked tongue; that is, who never lies to thera. The re ception that they gave him in the hostile camp was enthusi astic and magnificent. They came twenty miles to raeet him, and the principal chiefs, riding beside him, conducted him to the camp in great triumph. This camp comprised more than 500 lodges, which, at the ratio of six persons to 1586 SITTING bull's PROMISE, the lodge, gave a total of 3,000 Indians, During his visit, which lasted three days, the principal chiefs. Black Moon and Sitting Bull, who had been redoubtable adversaries of the whites for the last four years of the war, watched con stantly over the safety of the missionary; they slept beside him at night, lest some Indian might seek to avenge upon his person the death of some kinsman killed by the whites. During the day time, multitudes of children flocked to his lodge, and the mothers brought him their new babies that he raight lay his hands on thera and bless thera. In the gathering of the Indians the head chiefs promised to put an end to the war. Sitting Bull declared that he had been the most mortal enemy of the whites, and had fought them by every means in his power ; but now that the Black- robe had come to utter the words of peace, he renounced warfare and would never again lift his hand against the whites. The chiefs delegated several of their principal war riors, who, in corapany with Father De Smet, arrived at Fort Rice on the 30th of June. The arrival of the Reverend Father with the Indian dele gation gave rise to great rejoicings among the friendly tribes assembled at the fort. They escorted him thither with great ceremony. The warriors formed a long file and marched with true military precision. It was a really remarkable spectacle, though little in accord with the tastes of the good Father, who does not love the sound of trumpets and the glare of parades. Not in fifty years, very likely, had there been seen so nuraerous an asserably in our country as that which had come together at Fort Rice. The interests at stake were far above anything that our friends can imagine. The first chiefs or representatives of nine bands of the Sioux nation were present. I do not think it necessary to mention the strange names of these different bands, which are besides for the most part unknown to you ; suffice it to say that the tribes represented at the meeting cover with their habita tions an extent of territory equaling in area six times that DE smet's disinterested DEVOTION, 1 587 of the State of Ohio; and any one who is at all acquainted with the Indian question, is aware that no peace with the Indians can be worth anything if it does not comprehend the Sioux, who are the most nuraerous of all the tribes with which we have had to treat down to this day, and the most warlike as well, and the one that has had the raost to com plain of on the part of the whites. The treaty signed by all the principal chiefs now needs only the sanction of the Senate to becorae a law. I am persuaded that it is the most complete and the wisest of all the treaties thus far concluded with the Indians of this country. Without going into details, by the provi sions of this treaty the Indians are to be abundantly pro vided with victuals, clothing and agricultural and mechan ical implements. No money payments have been stipulated, as unfortunately money excites the covetousness of more than one and often converts comraissioners, governors of ter ritories, superintendents, agents and traders into a band of thieves. Without doubt the fulfillraent of the provisions of this treaty will assure peace with the Sioux, The ira- portance of this result will be understood, if it is consid ered that a distinguished general [Sherraan] stated, last fall, that a war undertaken with the object of exterminat ing the Indians of the plains (and he thought it would have to come to that extremity) would cost the country $500,000,000. I will say in passing that this method of pacification seeras to rae altogether too much like violence. The same general, at the time of the Rebellion, said that not less than 200,000 men would be required to bring Ken tucky and Tennessee back to their duty; his words seeraed at the time to be wild, but later events showed the contrary. But it is time to close this long letter. Whatever may be the result of the treaty which the commission has just concluded with the Sioux, we can never forget nor shall we ever cease to admire, the disinterested devotion of the Reverend Father De Smet, who, at the age of sixty-eight years, did not hesitate, in the raidst of the heat of suraraer. 1588 LETTER FROM GENERAL SULLY, to undertake a long and perilous journey, across the burn ing plains, destitute of trees and even of grass ; having none but corrupted and unwholesorae water, constantly exposed to scalping by Indians, and this without seeking either honors or remuneration of any sort ; but solely to arrest the shedding of blood and save, if it might be, some lives, and preserve sorae habitations to these savage children of the desert, to whose spiritual and teraporal welfare he has conse crated a long life of labor and solicitude. The head chief of the Yanktonnais, Two Bears, said in his speech : " When we are settled down sowing grain, raising cattle and living in houses, we want Father De Smet to come and live with us, and to bring us other Black-robes to live among us also; we will listen to their words, and the Great Spirit will love us and bless us," DAVID S. STANLEY, Major-General, U. S. A. Helena, M. T., Dec. 8, 1869. Dear Father De Smet : Your very welcome letter dated November loth I re ceived two days ago on my return from the Yellowstone, where I had been for the last three weeks attending to my Crow children. You know I have built this year an agency for them. I went to visit them to see about their receiving their annuity goods according to the treaty. They were not very well pleased with the treaty, and far less with the class of goods they received, which certainly were ill-fitted for Indians as wild as the Mountain Crows are. It will take many years before they begin to be civilized. Yet as a nation they are friendly and well disposed toward the whites, but bitter enemies to the Sioux and other Indians, and very superstitious. The young officer they have there is I fear not fitted for the position. They require some one INTEREST OF THE INDIANS, 1 589 of more character to control them. I believe there is a good opening for your Society there and if you think the matter worthy of the trial, I will do all in my power to assist you, I hope to be able to visit the East before spring and shall of course take in St, Louis on my way, but I have much here to do before I leave. In the first place I will try and regu late the present difficulties with the Blackfeet. The chiefs are on the Teton and will meet me. Then I go again to the Flathead country to try and effect a treaty with the [illegible]. In making that treaty I will do all I can for the Mission of St. Ignatius. For the good they have done these Indians they deserve every consideration on the part of the Government. I find my duties here very arduous. I have to travel most of the time, and when I return ray stay here for a few days is occupied at the desk attending to ray papers and accounts, I thank you for your kind attention to ray stepdaughter, I write to you with much trouble on my mind. My wife is very sick and troubled with the complaint that was near causing her death last February. I shall always be happy to hear from you when you have time to write. Truly your friend, ALF. SULLY. Cheyenne Agency, D. T., March 13, 1870. Reverend P, J. De Smet, St. Louis, Mo.: Reverend Father. — It is no idle raotive which prompts me to address you. I have been asked so often by the In dians what has become of you that to satisfy myself and thera I have taken this liberty. The " Log," an Indian who accompanied you and Major Galpin to the hostile camps, speaks daily of you. He says he is in the same good road you put him in and he and a number of his people intend planting corn this spring. He is one of the most anxious to hear from you. He tells me to write to you that the death 1590 INDIANS MEAN TO KEEP PEACE of Major Galpin has left him as an orphan, that the only hopes of the Indians were in Major Galpin and you; and one being dead their hopes are now solely in you. He says they know you are their friend and wish them all well and that you will do all in your power to help them ; he and all the Indians wish to hear from you in response to this. The Indians of this agency and Grand River have be haved exceedingly well all winter, and most of thera intend farming this spring and it is my opinion that if let alone by the hostile Indians and treated fairly by their agents and the whites in the country they will get along well enough. Trusting that I may get an early answer from you as to when the Indians may expect to see you, I am. Father, Very respectfully. Your obedient servant, GUS. GUELBERTH, Sioux City, May i, 1870, Reverend P. J. De Smet : Dear Father. — I left Fort Berthold April 13th in a macki- naw boat and arrived at this place on the 28th ultimo, I have made several trips at this season but this one was the severest I have experienced. I left the Indians at Berthold in a good condition; there have been less suffering from hunger and fewer deaths this last winter and spring than the two previous, and they are better satisfied than they have been for years. The Sioux from Grand River have been a little troublesome the past winter, killing several of the In dians at Berthold. Our Indians do not intend to go to war until another raid is made against them. White Shield and Son of the Star told rae to tell you that they would like very rauch to see you. On my way down I found two mission aries at Yankton agency, Episcopal and Methodist, and there is some talk of their coming up to Berthold and at other points. I sincerely hope you will endeavor to have AND WANT TO SEE DE SMET, 1 59 1 at least one Catholic mission soraewhere in the upper country. The Berthold Indians have been expecting you for the last two seasons. I should like very much to see you on this subject and was in hopes of having that pleasure, but on arrival here I found it would not be necessary to go on to St, Louis so I return from here on the Emilie La Barge when she arrives. Should it be decided that you establish a missionary for these Indians, the most eligible place that I could suggest is opposite the Little Missouri where there is a point of land from half to three miles wide between the two points of timber, and seven miles bottom land to the hills, heavy tim ber on the opposite side of the river, and the same in the two points above and below on the Berthold side. Lignite is in abundance on the Little Missouri side opposite the site. The Indians would readily move frora Berthold and with very little inducement I think the Assiniboins might be pre vailed upon to join them at that point. It will be advisable to act promptly before the Indian agent goes to too much ex pense at Berthold. Since he has to build, I think it would be preferable to be nigher to timber and fuel. Around Berthold everything is ruined in the way of timber, grass, etc. My cousin tells me he thinks, if our troubles are ended, that it was through your influence with the official, for which, dear Father, please accept my sincerest thanks. Your kind and friendly interference in my behalf shall never be forgotten. Beauchamp and son were well when I left ; they intended opening a woodyard. Pierre Garreau is still at Berthold; he is declining very fast, although not sick. Please write me at Fort Stevenson and if there is any thing I can do for you up there please comraand rae. I do not think that I will be down to St. Louis before next spring, when I intend to bring ray children up to see their mother, I should like to hear where Mrs. Meaker is at ; she has for gotten her godchild at Berthold. Good-bye. Your friend, F. F. GERARD, CHAPTER X, FUNERAL ORATION ON FATHER DE SMET, By Bishop Ryan, Onias, that truly good and gentle man, so modest in his countenance, so regular and moderate in his ways, so agree able in his speech and who had practiced all kinds of virtues from his youth up. Mace II, i^UCH were the eminent qualities of that Onias, high *^ priest of Judea, whom the Jews so bitterly bewailed and whose loss was regretted by even Antiochus himself, mindful of the amenity of character of the great priest and of the upright life which he had led. These words, my brethren, are admirably suited to the apostolic man whose mortal remains are here exposed to your view before the holy altars. He was, as you all know, of a lovable and simple nature, and he served God in faithfulness frora his infancy. It is right that we should be met together to pay to his memory the homage of our veneration. Wherever the name of the zealous missionary is known, not only throughout the United States but in Europe as well, wher ever the renown of his great and noble labors has spread, the news of the raournful event which has brought us to gether and occasioned our grief, will be received with pro found sorrow, and all men who have come in contact with this godly man, regardless of the creed to which they may belong, cannot but adraire and exalt the virtues and merits of this worthy priest of the Lord, Yes truly, in the tent of the poor Indian as in the heart of our populous cities, people will speak with love and respect for a long time to come of 1 From French version. [1592] STATUE OF FATHER DE SMET IN TERMONDE. CHILDLIKE INNOCENCE. 1 593 the Revenend Father De Smet, whom death, alas! has just taken from us. Despite the lustre which his apostolic labors shed over his person, and all the meritorious works which marked his life, this man of God displayed in all his conduct the simplicity of a child; he. was kindly, candid, modest, and even showed the timidity of tender years, and the language of Tertullian may be applied to him, which he was wont to use in speak ing of the old servants of Christ in his time : " They are old raen, but at the same time they have the graces and simplicity of youth. The purity of their lives and the cleanliness and uprightness of their souls enable them to pre serve to the close of their lives the springtime freshness of their earlier years." Our divine Master, my brethren, sig nalized this innocence and childlike candor as a character istic token of the heavenly vocation, saying, " Except ye be come as little children, ye shall not enter the kingdom of heaven," Such was our regretted and venerable friend : he was at the evening of his life what he had been at the dawn of his career and at the noonday of manhood. It was his rare qualities of rectitude and siraplicity that won hira the con fidence of so raany friends, and it was the support of this confidence, with God's help, that enabled him to effect such great things. Nearly fifty years of his existence were spent in the fulfillment of the mission for which God sent him into the world. Yes, my brethren, this zealous priest busied himself for a half-century, with the raost perfect purity of intention, in the service of God, in saving souls, in propa gating the glory of the Master of heaven and earth: — what a noble life ! And think that he expended his strength in behalf of the poor savages, those outcast, disinherited children of the desert, and this despite the fact that they were mere strangers to him, wholly unknown to him — he had never seen thera, and would naturally feel no syrapathy for them. Yet almost the whole of his life was passed in the service of the great cause whose invincible champion he 1594 HE LOVED THE SAVAGES made hiraself, namely, the civilization of the wild and nomadic Indians, It was for their sake that he so often visited Europe, in quest of auxiliary missionaries and of financial and other aid, needed for the establishment and maintenance of missions among the red men. He loved these unhappy savages as the apple of his eye; he studied to win them to himself, to deserve their con fidence ; he defended thera against their detractors, with that calra energy and continuity of action that we knew in him, I once heard some one say in my presence to Father De Smet, " But, Father, how is it possible for you to be so con tented among these frightful savages ? " " Frightful sav ages ? " he replied. " You don't know what you are saying. You do not know those simple, kindly people, I have met more savages in the great cities of America and Europe than I have ever seen in my life in the plains and deserts of the United States." And indeed, brethren, the Father was right. The civilized man to whom the truths of the gospel have been revealed, but who, despite the light that he has received, abuses the Lord's gifts, that man more rightfully deserves the name of savage, than those miserable Indians who have never enjoyed the same advantages. Consider the works and deeds of these so-called civilized men. Have they not in these last days horrified the whole world with their unheard-of crimes? Look at the horrors of the Paris commune, the massacre of Archbishop Darboy and the other hostages. Are not the monsters in human form who committed these misdeeds, raore hideous in their perversity than the worst araong the savages ? Taking into account on the one hand the raeans of intellectual and raoral culture which the scoundrels of the Coramune had at their disposition to be honest raen, and on the other the absence of even eleraentary notions of civilization araong the In dians, unfortunate race, whom the scriptures depict to us as " sitting in darkness and in the shadow of death," — raust we not conclude that the most blameworthy are found in our great cities, and that they have not even the excuse AND ALWAYS TOOK UP THEIR DEFENSE. 1 595 for their unnatural instincts, of the almost invincible ig norance of every law of decency which seems to be the lot of our unfortunate red men ? " I have been in a position," said our dear friend, " to appreciate these poor Indians. A band of tli'^m once came to me to receive holy baptism. I gave them the proper in struction, and made thera children of heaven. Then they besought rae earnestly to come again to them the following year, and I promised to do so. I returned at the appointed time, and as they showed an eager desire to approach the sacraments, I asked them what faults they had been guilty of since my last visit. They looked at me with astonish ment and a kind of stupor, and said, ' do you suppose. Father, that after all the benefactions we have received from God, those of creation, redemption, the knowledge of the true son of God, Jesus Christ, and your coming to us, do you suppose that we could be so wicked as to offend the Lord and appear before you charged with sins or crimes ? ' " You see, brethren, those unhappy Indians were hurt, at the thought that any one could think them capable of ingratitude toward God. Admirable sentiments! which explain why they had no faults upon their consciences to reproach them selves with. — How many Christians, even among our prac ticing Catholics, could say as much ? Always, yes, always, brethren, our missionary took up the defense of his Indians. He suffered for them, he sym pathized with them, and he used to say that in order to judge them justly one must live araong them and be able to put himself in their place. The Indians have often shown themselves, it is true, embittered against the whites and inclined to revolt; but the reason of their behavior is easily understood. Have they not been hunted and driven like wild beasts? Do they not know that they have been thrust back by successive degrees from the shores of the Atlantic to the edge of the Pacific ocean? They have learned from their forefathers, and experienced it them selves, that they are to be despoiled of their lands, foot by 1596 RECORD OF THE MISSIONARIES. foot. It irritates them to have to leave the land of their birth, where the ashes of their fathers repose. Let me tell you, brethren, a story related by Lord Erskine, the celebrated Scottish lawyer. An American Governor, in quest of Indian lands, once asked the chief of a certain tribe, " Tell me : why is it, that this river has its source in those lofty mountains and comes down to empty into the sea? Who is it that puts in motion these furious winds which rage in winter, but blow with only a feeble breath in sumraer ? What hand planted the century-old trees of your forests, so thick that the sun's rays cannot penetrate thera? Tell rae, what is this mysterious power that launches the thunderbolt and is able to put the whole world ablaze? Who is the author of these wonders ? " " It is the same Supreme Being," the Indian replied, " who gave you the vast lands on which you live on the other side of the water ; but he it is also who had made us masters of the land we dwell in and which you covet ; it is he who caused us to be born here, and it is under this title that we shall defend our homes." When he had said thus, the savage bran dished his tomahawk and .struck up with enthusiasm his nation's hymn of war. — Such, my brethren, are the sen timents by which the savages of our America are animated. Let us not judge them too severely, and let us see to it that we are just toward them. Let us remember that one of the effects of Christian civilization is to make the human heart incline toward forgiveness. A remarkable fact, brethren, in the annals of the Catholic Church, is this ; the conversion of rude and uncultured peo ples has always been due to the zeal of our missionaries. Look at the Indians of South America, of Canada, and the savages of other countries; they have been led away from their sensual and barbarous habits to a clean, regular and peaceable life, by apostles like Father De Smet. It is the bright beams from the Cross that have dissipated the dark ness of error and vice which had hitherto enveloped these de graded populations; it is the preaching of the gospel that LAS CASAS AND DESMET. 1 597 has brought forth these fruits of salvation and effected the astonishing changes in their raanners of which we in our day are witnesses. It is under the shadow of the standard of Christ that this so profound moral revolution has its be ginning and ending. These phenomena belong to history and are undeniable. But whence comes this efficacy and this civilizing power of the Catholic apostolate ? No doubt, my brethren, we must first attribute it to the action of God, that is, to grace ; but we raust also remark this : the Catho lic pastor identifies himself with his flock, he loves his sheep with his whole heart, he is devoted to them under all cir cumstances, and if need be, he is capable of defending them at the peril of his own life. A Protestant, as impartial as he is learned, Mr. Arthur Help, tells us that when the Spaniards had conquered the New World, they set about torturing the poor Indians. Well, would you know what energetic in fluence it was that neutralized the unjust aggressions of the Spanish invaders? It was the devotion of the illustrious sons of St. Dominic. Those were the first raissionaries who evangelized the uncultivated field of America and watered it with their sweat, — In speaking of the persecutions which the Indians suffered from the Spanish conquerors, I must not forget to add that their raost intrepid defender was that admirable bishop, Bartoloraeo de las Casas, the Father De Smet of his day. He and his it was who protected the Indian inhabitants of the forests and deserts. ********* Our dear and regretted dead friend followed the same line of conduct ; he loved the poor savages from the bottom of his heart, and he had a mother's tenderness and devo tion for thera. He made allowances for their weaknesses, attributing them to their nomadic habits of life, to which they are so madly atttached. " What is there strange," said our wise and peaceful colonizer, " in the fact that the Indians have but an indifferent opinion of the benefits of our pretended civilization, when they can only judge of it from the examples of perversity and vice which the whites dis- 1598 HUMILITY IN LAST MOMENTS. play to their eyes? What criterion have they to examine the conduct of the emissaries or agents of the Americans, other than the memory of having been often duped and robbed by them?" Father DeSmet was guided in his apostolate by very different motives ; his views were super natural. How many times have I heard him utter this wish : " Oh ! how I should like to pass my life and end it, among our dear Indians ! " When he felt his end at hand, one of his greatest con solations was to think of the many little children whom he had regenerated in the holy waters of baptism, and whose prayers would, at the supreme moment, be of such great aid to hira. He had also the greatest trust in the merits of the adult savages who had persevered in their faith, and who would be praying for him also. When I saw Father DeSmet last, on Wednesday, the 21st of May, two days before his death, I found him full of courage and hope,- He said to me, " I have served the good God for raany years ; I am going to come before him pretty soon, and my heart is very full of confidence and of real consolation. I have the greatest hope," he said further, " in the efficacy of the prayers of all those to whom the Lord has sent rae in times past; I count especially on the merits of Jesus Christ, poor sinner that I am, and I love to think that the Lord will have pity on rae in the hour of ray agony." — Tell me, my brethren, could a man who had passed fifty years of his life in crime, and in whora remorse for his sins had in spired the deepest repentance, have spoken of himself with greater humility and contrition? Forgetting his stern toil and his incontestable merits, the good Father thought only of turning lovingly toward the infinite satisfactions of Jesus Christ, and of reposing upon the Lord's inexhaust ible mercy. Such should be the sentiments of every tme Christian, The more nearly we approach God by the exer cise of virtues, the more also we become convinced of our own infirmity or weakness; the more too does our con science become enlightened and delicate, and the more do WHY THE INDIANS LOVED HIM, 1 599 we deplore our slightest faults and dread the effects of divine justice, and the more, finally, do we put our hope in God, leaning upon the Lord's kindness and his merciful promises. Learn, then, my brethren, from the exaraple of Father De Sraet, to practice piety and to display in your own be havior Christian simplicity, and while amid your tears you offer your prayers for him to the Lord, purify your hearts at the same tirae and remeraber that in all your acts you should seek alone the glory of your Creator. The scene of this world is quickly past. If you practice this purity of intention, it will bring with it that other Christian virtue, uprightness of heart. Walking under the eye of God, you will have nothing to conceal ; there will be nothing in your conduct to resemble duplicity or intrigue. A man who works for God has no other object than God; his works are all manifest, they bear the stamp of sincerity ; he goes forth full of light and truth; his conduct can be known and judged by aH the world. It was thus that when the red man of the forest saw Father De Smet, he judged favorably of that countenance upon which such frankness, honesty and innocence were imprinted. The Indian felt instinctively drawn toward this man of God, whose behavior was dictated by no motive of self-interest. The savages understood perfectly well that the zealous missionary came among them, not to make a fortune, not to win renown or acquire standing, but purely to labor for the salvation of their souls. This is why they instantly understood what ever the Father said to them ; they read in the features of the worthy priest the uprightness of his life, and they fell prostrate at his feet; they iraplored the aid of his sacred ministry, and asked to be taught. It is a remarkable thing, brethren ; Father De Smet never needed, so to speak, but to show himself, and on the instant a current of active sym pathy was established between him and those he approached. The red raen felt theraselves fascinated by his gaze, by his expressive speech and his raasculine energy. We admit l600 GOD WORKED THROUGH THE MAN, that Father De Smet was fortunately endowed by nature — but nature, my brethren, is God; he it was who fashioned the instrument, and shaped it to the work for which he destined it. Religion perfected nature and lent lustre to the natural gifts of this gentle, generous man. Religion will likewise perfect you, and teach you how to act for God ; it will gain you the grace of living in conformity to the nobility of your origin and the grandeur of your destiny; and thus prepare for you a happy and holy death. INDEX Absaroka, Absharokay, Indians (see also "Crows"), 238, 277, 629, 1 1 09 Acapulco, Mexico, 735, 807 Accolti, Rev. Michael, 408, 451 Adolphe, Red Feather, Plathead chief, 766, 1240 Agriculture among Indians, 286, 342, 347. 366, 452, 471, 480, 491, S09, 567, 571, 60s, 627, 651, 689, I'^-J, 760, 798, 830, 870, 878, 883, 88s, 9S9, 974, 994, 997, 1190, 1 199, 1220, 1241, 124s, 1274 Alabaster in Black Hills, Wyo., 1348 Alexander, Kalispel chief, 1238, 1271 selects site St. Ignatius, 1232 Allis, Samuel, 165, 177 Ambrose, a Flathead, see " Sechel- meld " American Fur Co., 179, 201, 207, 244, 2S4, 260, 266, 276, 541, 607, 62s, 639, 664, 772, 783, 1234, 1311 Ampajoot Indians, 192 Anarchy, 14S4 Anecdotes, Indian, 539, 565, S97, 1 108, 1 176, 1340, 1416 Annuities, Indian, 175, 676, 877, 885, 1200, 1207, 1213 Antelope, 204, 849, 905, 1396 Anti-Catholic movement, see " Per secution " Ants, 1391 Antwerp, 408, 709, 923 D. dines with burgomaster, 710 Appetite, open-air, 564, 6s8, 758 Arapaho Indians, 674, 676, 688, 721, 8S9 Arcs-a-plats(see also "Flatbow '), 487 Aricara Indians : customs (from Irving), 247 massacre Assiniboins, 1839, 1137 loi Aricara Indians — Continued : meetings with, 1840, 246; 1846, 606; 185 1, 6so; 1862, 785; 1864, 828, 830; 1866, 857; 1867, 882 notes on, 245, 269, 309, S12, 666, 1279, 1381, IS37 Peace Council, i8si, 674, 676 thieves and murderers, 606 wizards, 250 Armadilloes, 479 Arrow Lakes, Columbia river, 549 Arrowstone Fork, 582 Ash Hollow, Neb., 685 Indian fights, 29, 290, 1218 Ashiganes Indians, 53s Askow river (also Bow), 506 Aspinwall, 733, 807 Assiniboin, name, 1141 Assiniboin Indians : cowards, 245 Crazy Bear's letter, 934 customs, 1 141 hunting pen, 1027 meetings with, 1840, 243, 245, 269 ; 1846, 605 ; 1862, 78s ; 1866, 8s7; 1867, 883 notes on, ,399, S39, 658, 666, 1176 Peace Council, i8si, 6S3, 674 separation from Sioux, 1382 story of Tchatka, 1108 Assiniboins of the Forest, 508, 513, S17, S3S Mountains, 517 Plains, 512 Assiniboin river, 534 Assumption, station of, 491 Astoria, 441, 442, 741 Athabasca, Elk, a la Biche, river, S17, 534, 538, 540, 543 Atlantic ocean, 411 voyages, 696, 703, 710, 732, 762, 782, 808, 841, 923, 1436 Atnan Indians, 477 Attayes (?) Indians, 387 Aurora borealis, 503 Avalanches, 538, 543 l602 INDEX, B Bad Lands, 622, 624 of the Missouri, 602, 851, 1368 Bad, Teton, Shicka, river, 622, 649 Bad Rock, 348, 745, 746 Baker's Bay, 438 BakeweU, Robert A., translates D.'s work, >I5 Bannock Indians, 305, 312, 314, 323, 365, 572, 574 Baptism, alleged cause of death, 1212, 1464 surreptitious, 185 Baptisms, 158, 164, 168, 177, 178, 18s, 187, 190, 226, 240, 244, 261, 318, 331, 338, 340, 346, 347, 351, 354, 359, 370, 371, 376, 379, 382, 383, 387, 392, 402, 470, 471, 477, 478, 480, 481, 494, 499, 510, 519, 522, 537, 539, S8o, 586, 604, 607, 609, 610, 632, 649, 650, 651, 652, 677, 678, 679, 685, 722, 766, 784, 788, 793, 798, 809, 810, 820, 825, 826, 829, 830, 831, 847, 856, 857, 858, 868, 870, 871, 872, 873, 874, 876, 878, 879, 881, 882, 888, 901, 902, 920, 921, 932, 947, 949, 950, 955, 963, 990, 1 191, 1233, 1258, 1282, 1475, 1499, 15 12 Baptist Berland river, 534 Barclay, Dr. Forbes, 447 Bartleson, John, 276, 296, 309 Bature, Great, 540 Bay, Pend d'Oreille, see "Kalis pel" Beale, Lieut., desires D.'s acquaint ance, 1566 Bear Paw mountains, 793, 1370 Bear river, 296, 301, 302 Bears, 167, 235, 496, 502, 582, 602, 605, 655, 940, 1022, 1400 Beauchamp river, 602 Beaver, 304, 503, 512, 529, 533, 535, 604, 665, 1373, 1393 Beaver Head river, 304 Beaver Hunter Indians, 517 Belcourt, Rev., 522, 652 Bellevue, Council Bluffs, Neb., 154, 171, 176, 177, 517, 612, 617, 1000, 1255, I2S7 Benton, Senator Thomas H. : presents D. to President Pierce, 66, 693 letter to, on Oregon Question, 1849, 486 Benton — Continued : letter from, 1852, 1566 Berland, Flatbow trader, 490, 494 Beschor, Rev., see " Watomika " Bibliography of D.'s writings, 144, 1543 Bidwell, Gen. John, quoted on 1841 Journey, 114, 276, 295, 296, 300, 312, 313 Big Dry river, 602 Big Elk, Ongpatongha, Omaha chief, 1532 Big Face, Paul, Tjolizhitsay, Flat head chief, 223, 234, 263, 305, 32s Big Hole river, 582 Bighorn, 601 Big Horn river, 239, 660 Big Lake, Omakzikinne, Piegan chief, 590, 595, 599, 952 Big Muddy river, 604 Bird, treacherous Blackfoot inter preter, 523, 526, 528, 1559 Bird Island, 601 Birds, see " Fauna " songs on plains, 648, 875 Birnie, James H., Astoria, 441, 442 Bitter Root, Coeur d'Alene, moun tains, 390, 464, 568, 770, 798 Bitter Root, St. Mary's, river, 315, 316, 343, 344, 390, 550 Blackbird, Omaha chief, 187, 611, 1385 Blackbird Hills, it;4, 188, 1384 Black Eagle lake, 534 Blackfeet Indians, see also "Bloods," "Piegans," "Little Robes," " Grosventres," " Sar- cees " chapter on, 946 bands, 949 early bad character, 318, 363, 996 cruelty, ferocity, etc., 233, 328, 363, 372, 398, 470, 508, 523, 1004 fights, 220, 261, 293, 319, 365, 473, 521, 524, 573, 574, 773, 1012, 1 127, 1469 dreaded by missionaries, 313, 339, 342, 36^, 506 old chief baptized in Flathead camp, 1841, see " Nicholas " F. Point desires to go among, 1842, 391 INDEX, 1603 Blackfeet Indians — Continued : meetings with, 1842, 364; 1845, 523, 572 D. in search of, 1845, 482, 495, S06, 518, 526, 528, 530 hunting with Flatheads, 1846, 574, 584 D. meets and travels with, 1846, 584, 946 D. joins Big Lake's camp, 1846, 591 visit F. Hoeken, 1856, 1247 Alfred Vaughan, agent, 1857, 1317 general notes, 345, 391, 393, 399, 512, 517, 520, 524, 533, 601, 654, 666, 772, 785, 857, 858, 8S9, 1037, 1235 Blackfeet-Sioux, Sihasapa, 251, 688, 85s, 881, 1 109 Blackfoot chant composed by D., 594 Blackfoot Forks, 582 Black-gown, Priest, river, 550 Black Hills, Wyo., 213, 645, 670, 1346 Blackroot, cure for snake-bite, 210, 663 Blacksnake Hills (St. Joseph, Mo.), 151, 125s Blacksnake Indians, destruction, 612 Blair, Hon. Frank P., letter to, 1509 Blanchet, Bishop Francis Norbert, 48, 196, 339, 387, 443, 447, 453, 460, 477, 554, 1552 Blanchet, Bishop Magloire, 805, 1234, 1266 Blondeel Van Cuelenbroeck, Ed ward, Belgian minister, dines with, 1504, 1505, 1507 letter to, 1007, 1510. Blood Indians (see also "Black feet"), 593, 597, 859, 949 Boat Encampment, Columbia river, 541, 543, 546 Bogy, Colonel L. V., Com. Ind. Affairs, 1528 letter to, 1866, 1288 Bolduc, Bishop, 476, 510 Bonneville, Captain B. L. E., 300, 1346 Boucane river, 534 Bourassa, Rev., 516, 532 Bow, Askow, river, 506 Bozeman Pass, 234 Brabant, Duke of, interview, 1460 'Bravest of the Brave, Flathead chief, see " Stiettiedloodsho " Breadroot, psoralea esculenta, 655 Bridger, James, 182 (?), 661, 1012, 1489 children, 1483, 1484, 1488 letter to, 1484 Brigade, Hudson Bay Co., 540, 541, 546 Brouillet, Rev., vicar-general Washington, 1513 Brown's Hole, 301 Briiles (see also "Sioux"), 632, 855, 859, 872, 873, 1260 Bruyere, Mr., Fort Berthold, 605 Buffalo, approaching extinction, 934, 948, 995, 1 188 general notes, 20S, 210, 512, 532, 603, 657, 666, 828, 850, 872, 948, 1 126 hunting, 206, 231, 360, 362, 391, 588, 658, 723, loii, 1025, 1376, 1397 meat as food, 515, 588, 1377, 1397 trade in robes, 179, 207, 517, 63s Buildings, mission and church, 158, 168, 184, 306, 316, 330, 331, 339, 444, 451, 467, 476, 478, 483, 551, 570, 760, 795, 796, 962, 1268, 1274 Bullboat, 222, 308 Cabanne's trading post, 1533 Cabinets, The, 378 Cache Valley, 1404 Cactus, 665, 1388 Calais light, 411 Caldwell, half-breed Potawatomi chief, 157. 178 California, rush to in 1849, 1421 view in 1858, 737 Calkobin Indians, 1019 Callao, Peru, 428 Calumet, cult of, 165, 190, 211, 217, 251, 284, 312, 314, 326, 363, 394, 519, 566, 581, 585, 591, 599, 60s, 606, 626, 632, 634, 675, 681, 688, 900, 914, 938, 979, 1004, 1008, 1018, I I'I? Calumets presented by D., 1008 i6o4 INDEX, Camas Prairie, 345, 347, 972 root, 345, 356, 467, 561, 991 description of, 488 Camp Croghan, 1534 Campbell, Colin, Fort Lookout, 609. 628 Robert, 674, 1232, 1245, 1248, 1483, 1488, 1499 letter to, 1294 W. H., letter to, 1511 Canada, annexation predicted, 1448, 1456 Canadians, 187, 221, 230, 251, 262, 270, 27s, 338, 343, 371, 373, 389, 448, 452, 455, 476, 490, 498, 526, 540, 545, 547, 553, 610, 639, 649, 677, 684, 820, 824, 857, 871, 872, 946, 1257 Cannonball river, 904, 906 name, 1379 Canoe river, 546 Canoe and skiff travel, 190, 2=;7, 270, 344, 378, 386, 401, 474, 547, 550, 554, 601, 636, 758, 764, 774 Cape Disappointment, 436, 438, 485, 740 Cape Horn, Columbia river, 454 South America, 418 Cape Verde Islands, 413 Carcajou, 344, 603, 1024 Carrier Indians, 477, 535, 539, 1005 Cart river, 582 Caruana, Father, 799, 1303 Cascade Mountains, 555, 742 Cascades of Colorado, 454, 555, 742 Catholic church and Indian agents, 1541 Indians, 1862, 1319 Ladder, 460 missionary methods considered, 122 Catlin, George, 25, 1135, 1177 Caulfield, B. G., letter to, 1508 Cayuse Indians, 387, 393, 480, 748, 991 Chalax, Peter, Kalispel chief, 318, 321, 346, 368 (?), 472 Champoeg, Oregon, 475 Chapelle creek, 608 Chaplain U. S. Army, appointment, 715, 718 duties, 719 seeks to resign, 730, 732, 762 expense account, 775, 893 Chardon, J. B., Yankton interpre ter, 1287 Charles, Flathead interpreter, 355, 381, 383, 387, 389, 575 Chaudiere Indians, see " Kettle " Cheyenne, Wyo., 1868, 901 Cheyenne Indians, 211, 260, 312, 399, 674, 676, 679, 688, 859 Cheyenne river, 607 Chicago in 1855, 1456 in 1867, 861 Chile, visit to, 421 Chimney Rock, 209, 685, 1349, 1388 Chinook Indians, 387, 441, 451, 1014 Chippewa Indians, 1047 Chivington massacre, 844, 912, 1201 Cholera, 640, 650, 1283, 1419, 1475 Chopunnish, name, 23 Chouteau, Charles P., 126, 783, 803, 819, 836, 1368 Cigars prescribed for biliousness, 1503 Cinq Poil Indians, see " Simpoil " Civil War, 76, 132, 842, 1431, 1433, 1436, 1442 causes of, 1437, 1440 Claessens, Brother William, 278, 762 Clark, Malcom, 81 married by D., i;i2 Clark, Gen. William, and Flathead embassy, 21 Clark's Fork or Flathead river, 34a, 345, 346, 347, 465, 473, 484, 549, 764, 798, 972 navigation, 378 Clatsop Indians, 387. 440 Coal deposits, 493, 514, 529, 647, 659, 668, 907, 959 Cody, Dr. W. F., Sioux agent, 1299, 1539 Coeur d'Alene, name, 997 Coeur d'Alene, Pointed Heart, Skit- suish, Skizoumish, Indians : ask to be taught, 1841, 317 visits to, 1842, 374, 390; 1844, 464; 1846, 56s; 1858, 760; 1859, 769 Sacred Heart Mission (which see), 1842, 377 apologize for misbehavior, 1844, 461 in 1858-59, 731, 744, 967 methods of hunting, 1021 INDEX. 1 60 = Cceur d'Alene — Continued : story of Louise Sighouin, 1143 Gov. Stevens on, 1273 best Indians in mountains, 1891, notes, 563, 970, 992, 997 Coeur d'Alene latce, 374, 456, 562, 746, 756, 801 mountains (see Bitter Root), 798 river (St. Ignatius r.), 757, 769, 798 war, 748 Colorado river, 299 Colter's Hell, 660 Columbia or Oregon river, bar, 436, 437, 439, 740, 806 dalles, see " Dalles '' incidents of travel, 386, 474, 546, 547, 554, 557 lakes, 548, 549, 801 source, 495, 497, 538, 543 scenery, 384, 442, 446, 454, 482, 495, 547, 555 aspect in 1858, 737; in 1863, 804 Comanches, intention to visit, 774, 1452 Comcomly, Chinook chief, 442 Commissioner Indian Affairs, Re port, Sept., 1867, 1329 Commissioners, Peace, 887, 889, 891, 893, 899, 919, 921 Committee's Punch Bowl, 534 Congiato, Father, superior Rocky Mountain missions, 317, 716, 744, 763, 769, 771, 816, 1581 letters from, 1236, 1277 to, 1318, 1501 Conway, J. H., letter from, 1568 to, 1455 Cottonwood Springs, Neb., 722 Councils, lowas and Otoes, 1838, 176 Horse river, 1851, 675, 1177 Gov. Stevens, 1855, 1234 North Platte, 1868, 900 Sioux, 1868, 921 Council Bluffs, for Bellevue, 1257 Old, Neb., 611, 636 (?), 1533 Iowa, 1838, IS, 158 1840, 258 mention, 517, 1087 Cow Island, 1534 Cox, Ross, quoted, loio Crazy Bear, Fool Bear, I'Ours Fou, Assiniboin chief, 510, 933, 1108, I2I4, 131 1, 1481, 1493, 1496 Cree Indians, 371, 483, 517, 519, 524, 526, 528, 533 Cross of Peace, 500, 504, 505 Crow country, 238 Crow, Absaroka, Absharokay, In dians, meetings with, 1840, 237, 266; 1842, 393; 1846 (at tempted), 579, 583; 1862, 785; 1863, 791 massacre Little Robes, 1845, 524 fight with Flatheads, 1846, 576, 584 defeat Ogallalas, 1848, 629 attend 185 1 Council, 653, 674, 676 sketch, 1854, 103s condition, 1869, 1588 general notes, 300. 512, 575, 665, 773, 857, 883, 1 183 Cuba, annexation predicted, 1456 Cuhute (Oregon City?), 453 Culbertson, Alexander, 653, 1063, 1214, 1235, 1315, 1481, 1495, 1500 his Indian family, 1500 Thaddeus, journal, 1481 Cummings, Colonel Alfred, Supt. Ind. Affairs, 1276 letter to, 13 15 Curtis, Rev. Samuel, 154, 177 Dakota, Dacotha, meaning, 608 Dalles, Columbia, 384, 454, 479, 556, 558, 742 Colville, 550 Little, 548 of the Dead, 547 Okinagan, 386 Dalles City in 1863, 805 D'Aste, Rev. Jerome, S. J., Ill, 1244, 1300 letter to, 1335 Dawson, " Cheyenne," 312 Dawson, Supt. Fort Benton, 1859, 772, 774 Dearborn river, 772, 1357 De Boey, lake, 457, 562 Deer, anecdotes, 191, 243, 257, 344, 467. 535, 545, 1021 Deer Lodge, St. Ignatius, creek, 307 i6o6 INDEX. Deer Skin Indians, 517 De Kock, Brother, 762 De la Croix, Canon Charles, 198, 284, 1517 Delano, Columbus, Secretary of the Interior, letter to, 1541 Delaware Indians, 279, 1009, iioo, 1 105 Demers, Rev. Llodeste, meeting, 1842, 388; 1844, 443 missionary work in New Cale donia, 380, 389, 477 first bishop of Vancouver, 554 mention, 355, 364, 381, 449, 476 letter from, 1840, 1551 DeNef, Lake, 463, 563 Denig, Edwin T., Assiniboin trader, 1063, 1108, iiii, 1497 letters to, 1214, 1481, 1491, 1494, 1495, 1498 sends books to, 1482, 1495 Denominations, religious, and U. S. Government, ly^S DesAutels, Mr., at Fort Mandan, 1846, 606 Des Avirons river, 534 Des Chutes river (Canada), 492 De Semalle, Rene, questions, 1202 Des Gens Libres river, 534 De Smet, Rev. Pierre-Jean, S. J. : family and birth, 1801, 9 comes to America, 1821, 12, 147 removes to Missouri, 1823, 5, 12, 147 ordained priest, 1827, 12, 148 visits Europe, 1833, 13, 148 returns to America, 1837, 14, 149 missionary to Potawatomies, 1838, 14, 149, 157. 818 excursion to Sioux country, 1839, 16, 149 sees fourth Flathead " embassy," 1839, 29 journey of 1840, 31, 201 raises funds, 39, 273 journey of 1841-42, 39, 275 travels in Europe, 1843, 44, 403 voyage around Cape Horn, 1844, 45, 408 travels in mountains, 1844-46, 48, 454, 612 visit to Sioux, 1848, 60, 617 official duties in St. Louis, 58, 528, 815 De Smet — Continued : attends Indian council, 1851, 61, 638 planned retirement to Europe, 1852, 65, 1477, 1480 presented to Pres. Pierce, 1853, 66, 693 European journey, 1853, 66, 693 invited to New Mexico, 1854, 1452 takes last vows, 1855. 67 European travels, 1856-57, 67, 69s Chaplain, U. S. Army, 1858, 69, 715, 1569 crosses Isthmus of Panama, 72, 733 winters among Cceur d'Alenes, 72, 759 European travels, 1860-61, 76, 777 visits Fort Benton, 1862, 79, 783 last visit to mountains, 1863, 83, 788-811, 1326, 1516 peace mission to Sioux, 1864, 86, 812 European travels, 1864-65, 86, 836, 838 reception on return, 844 visits Fort Benton, 1866, 87, 845, 1326 Peace Commission, 1867, 89, 887, 889, 921 Major U. S. Army, 94, 881 penetrates to Sitting Bull's camp, 1868, 96, 903, 1584 last journey to Indian country, 1870, 104, 9^2 European travels, 1868-71, 104, 923 physical decline, 105, 813, 814, 900, 920, 1343, 1460, 1518, 1538, 1544, 1545 death, May 23, 1873, 107 funeral oration, 1592 personal appearance, 13, iii, 543, 1473 character and temperament, 108, 1473 Itineraries, 147, 193, 403, 613, 693, 777, 926 an observant traveler, 137 knowledge of the West, 136 INDEX. 1607 De Smet — Continued : makes maps, 561, 662, 1497, 1565, 1581 bibliography, 144, 1543 literary methods, 139, 638, 715, 81S, 817, IS30, 1543 his writings, 59, 138, 1447, 1479, 1530, 1543 answers charges agamst them, 1478 services to country, 1577, 1578 science, 1553, 1567, 1568 Indians, 1566, 1572, I575, 1577, I 1580, 1583, 1584, 1593 missionary cause, 122, 1561, 1562 relations with Indians, 115, 816, 834, 838, 893, 1239, 1244, 1314, i486, 1539, 1585, 1595 on the Indian Question, 118 (see general index) on the Oregon Question, 129, 48s, 486 on America, 127 (see "United States ") attitude toward Union, 77, 132, 15 14 love for adopted country, 486, 1514 on liberty of belief, 132 (see " Persecution ") threatened with episcopacy, 1525 compared to St. Nicholas, 802 names U. S. Indian agents, 1298, 1334, 1541, 1547 exposes life, 625, 649, 791, 809, 816, 833, 903 plan for Indian reservations, 1579 plans history Missouri Province, 1548 De Smet, Lake, 668 Mount, 5?8 another (Father Pierre moun tain), 383 De Smet, Missouri river steam boat, 107, 1547 Des Prairies river, 534 Des Roches river, 534 DeVelder, J. B., D.'s companion in 1840, 221, 234, 241, 268 Devil, the, 158, 165, 293, 331, 340, 343, 358, 373, 392, 5 15, i .74 Devil's Gate, Wyo., 298, 343 Devil's Lake, Mine-wakan, 788 Devil's Rake, 153, 343 De Vos, Rev. Peter, S. J., 44, 444, 453, 476 letter from, 1563 Digger, Dignes de Pitie, Poor Devil, Soshoco, Indians, 216, 301, 990, 1032 (see also " Snakes ") Distances, St. Louis to Missouri river points, 1361 Dog-meat as food, 212 Dog river, 602 Dog-sleds, 533 Dole, W. P., Com. Ind. Affairs, letter from, 1583 Dorion, "Old," Fort Pierre, 1839, 1549 Dougherty. Major John, 171, 172 Douglas, James, Fort Vancouver, 447 Dragoons drowned in Platte, 1839, . 175 Drips, Andrew, 193, 201, 260 Droughts, great, 793, 830 Duerinck, Father, death, 67, 1194 Duke of Brabant, contributes 20 francs, 1567 Du Milieu river, 534 Dunbar, Rev. John, 165, 177 Du Vieux river, 534 Eagle river, 602 Eau qui court, coule, river (see "Niobrara"), 610, 645 name, 1384 Eccleston, Archbishop, Baltimore, letter to, 1306 Edmonton, Alberta (see " Fort Augustus"), 530, 531 Elet, Rev. Jean, S. J., Provincial to America with D., 11 plan to return D. to Europe, 1477 death, 185 1, 65, 1475, 1478 Elkhorn Steeple, 604, 137L Eneas, see " Ignace " Ensyla, see " Michael " Ermatinger, Ermantinger, Frank, 294, 310, 542, 1554 Eustis, Lake (Yellowstone 1.), 1377 Expenses of 1867 journey, 1329 i6o8 INDEX, Falkland Islands, 418 Farnham, Thos. J., 276 Fathers' Defile, 307 Fauna and Flora, 167, 181, 186, 199, 213, 221, 344, 349, 478, 488, 496, 501, 622, 655, 721, 792, 795, 798, 906, 1025, 1371, 1388 Fevers, 177, 202, 240, 260, 640 Fidelis, Teltella, Flathead chief, 1239 Fires, forest, 506, 799 prairie, 257, 659, 864, 1347, 1383 Fisgard, British war vessel, 486 Fish and fowl, curious ocean, 411- 418, 436 Fish in Indian country, 385, 482, 487, 505, 532, 533, 536, 550, 556, 798, 998, I?93 Fitzpatrick, Thomas, on 1841 Jour ney, 276, 311, 312 at 1851 Council, 675, 688 recommendation, 1465 mention, 1232, 1245 Flatbow, Skalzi, Indians, 483, 484, 489, 491, 957, 998 Flatbow, Arcs-a-plats, Kootenai, river, 487 Flathead Indians : name, 19 religious bent, 19 " embassies," 21, 290, 1223 visit, 1840, 216, 220, 223, 261, 573, 992, 1004, 1224 in 1841-42, 289, 304, 316, 319, 390 in 1845, 524 in 1846, 571, 574, 584, 591, 993 mission abandoned, 1851, 1480, 1485 m 1853, 1226, 1485 in 1858, 731, 967, 1501 in 1869, 1226 removal to Jocko, 1871, 1336 D.'s last message to, 1872, 1343 tributes to, 1263, 1264. 1267 Flathead lake, 372, 550, 958 river, 345, 372, 484, see also "Clark's Fork" Flatside Dog Indians, 517 Fleury island, 608 Floods, Coeur d ,rt.lene country, 465, 997 Kootenai river, 487 Missouri river, 639, 848, 852, 1379 Florissant, Mo., founding of no vitiate, 6 D., buried, 107 Floyd, John B., Secretary of War, letter to, 716 letter from, 1569 Fontenelle, Logan, Omaha chief, 1257, 1532, 1550 Fort Alexander (of the Crows), 517, 664 Assiniboin, 531, 534, 542 Atkinson, Neb., 1819, 1533, 1534 Augustus (Edmonton), 526, 530, 531, 542 Benton, 772, 793, 836, 858, 1242, 1368, 15 12 Berthold, 517, 605, 651, 828, 857, 882, 884, 1279 Blackfoot, see " Lewis," 517 Bouis, 609, 628, 636, 649 Buford, 868, 883, 885 Calhoun, 1534 Clark or Mandan, 250, 517 Colville, 342, 356, 380, 384, 457, 551 Croghan, 1534 des Montagues, Rocky Mountain House, 518 George (Astoria), 441 Hall, 289, 294, 304 Jasper, Jasper House, 531 Kearney, 158, 687, 688 sketch in 1858, 721 Laramie, 212, 517, 654, 673. 1217 • Lewis, 517, 584, 595, 598, 946 Lookout, 517, 609 Madison or Mandan, 606 Mandan, Alexander, Clark, Mad ison, 517, 606, 647 Maragnon, see " Lewis," 584 of the Crows, see " Alexander," 240, 266, 517 Okinagan, 387, 553 Pierre, 254, 270, 517, 607, 628, 649, 1251, 1260 Randall, 825, 1279 Rice, 857, 881, 884, 889, 890, 902, 920 Simcoe, 748 Sully, 825, 855, 857, 876, 881, 884, 921, 1332 Thompson, 873, 875, 884 Union, 244, 401, 517, 604, 638, 652, 853. 8S7i 1132, 1 184 INDEX, 1609 Fort Alexander (of the Crows) — Continued : Vancouver, 339, 387, 443, 445, 447, 454, 475, 541, 553, 554, 744, 769 Vermillion, 256, 270, 517, 610, 125 1 Walla Walla, 387, 389, 455, 474, 479, 553, 560, 744 William, 652 Four Bears, Minnetaree chief, 651 Fourchette river, 602 Fox Indians, 1087 Fox river, 654 Fraeb, Captain, 300 Francis (Xavier) Saxa or Le- mousse, Flathead, 29, 292, 303, 766 Fraser, Colin, Fort Jasper, 537, 538 Frazer nver, 534, 538, 543 Freighting, plains, 725 Fremont, John Charles, 180, 1552, 1566 French Village on Nishnabotna, 1257 Frost, General, D. labors for pardon, 1523 Fulton, Atlantic steamer, 693, 695 Fur Trade, 179, 517, 54i Gabriel, Cree half breed, 399, 401 Gailland, Rev. Maurice, 690 Galitzin, Mme. de. Provincial Sacred Heart, 517 Gall, Sioux chief, 918 Gallatin Fork, 234 Galpin, C. E., Fort Rice, 888, 890, 894, 898, 903, 1219, 1294, 1585, 1590 Game, wild, 191, 201, 231, 243, 356, 372, 401, 457, 467, 496, 532, .=¦'5, 537, 561, 601, 602, 604, 654, 656, 658, 674, 775, 872, 908 Gardiner river, 661 Gate of the Mountains, 1362, 1367 Gazzoli, Father, 758, 760, 762, 799, 803, 1 174 General of Society of Jesus, letters to, 1308, 1316, 1506, 1520, 1525 Gens de Colets river, 534 Gens du Lac, see "Lake Indians" Geological notes, 154, 181, 202, 223, 228, 244, 390,555, 601, 623, 625, 646, 656, 059, 662, 849, 907, 1347, 1378 Gerard, F. F., Fort Berthold, 895, 898, 1537 letter from, 1590 Gerry, Spokan chief, 766, 969 Geyer, Charles A., with Nicollet, 180, 186, 1552 Gilpin, Governor, Colorado, letter to, ic;23 Giorda, Father, 317, 510, 600, 786, 797 letter to, 1343 Giou, Alexis, Sioux interpreter, 867, 869 Glacier, Great, 540, 541 Godfathers, 333 Goitres in mountains, 529 Gold, see " Precious Metals " Goule, clerk American Fur Co., 607 Government schools, 716, 857 Grande Traverse of the Athabasca, 540 Grand Prairie, Oreg., 553 Grand river, 607 Grant, President, views of, 1449, 1545 Grass band, Yankton society, 1059 Grasshoppers, 511, 1033 Grassi, Father, 510, 796, 803 Grattan massacre, 1216 Graves, Indian, violated, 558 Gray, John, hunter, 312, 1398 Great American Basin, 1404, 1412 Great Ameiican Desert, 618 Great Bend of the Missouri, 609, 647, 648, 649 Great Falls of the Missouri, 772, 1356, 1363, 1367 Great Salt Lake, 301, 1404, 1407 Great Slave Lake, 543 Great Western Slope, 544 Greenock Islands, 418 Green river, 216, 221, 294, 299, 561 Gros Franijois, Assiniboin chief, 1 176, I- 16 Grosventres of the Missouri, see also " Minnetarees," 245, 269, 277, 605, 651, 828, 857, 1537 of the Plains, see also " Black feet," 510, 593, 701, 949 Growth of West, see " Immigra tion" i6io INDEX, Guelberth, Gus., Cheyenne Agency, letter from, 1590 Guidi, Father, 1343 Guyelpitoeg river, see " Kettle " H Halifax, visit to, 705 Halton, Mai or. Agent Upper Mis souri, 1850, 1260 Hamilton, Fort Vermillion, 1846, 610 Iowa agent, 1839, 176 Hardships of missionary life, 57, 183, 203, 241, 257, 270, 315, 353, 358, 361, 400, 463, 465, 492, 513, 526, 528, 543, 545, 554, 567, 620, 623, 641, 6S4, 666, 669, 757, 767 . 770, 793, 119''. 1251, 1267, 1281 Harney, Gen. William S.. fight at Ash Hollow, 1855, 1218 commands Utah Expedition, 1858, 69, 723 commands Oregon War, 1858-9, 71, 731, 762, 968 invites D. to go as chaplain, 715, 719, 1570 transmits D.'s reports, 1859, 1576, 1580 Peace Commissioner, 1868, 900, 920,, 922, 1291, 1333 gives D. his big tent, 791 Harriote, J. E., Rocky Mountain House, 518, 519, 526, 527, 543 letter from, 1559 Harvey, Mr., from Blackfoot country, 527 Havre, adventure, 1853, 702 Hawaiian Islands, proposed to sail for, 1844, 437 _ annexation predicted, 1447, 1456 Helias, Father, 160 Hell Gate, Montana, 308, 582 Hell Gate, St. Ignatius, river, 343 Henry's Fork, 228 Lake, 229 Hickey, letter to, 1341 Hidatsa, Minnetarees, 1381 Hoeken, Rev. Adrian, S. J., sketch of, 444 to mountains, 1843, 44, 444 meets D., 1844, 457 at first St. Ignatius mission, 474 attends Gov. Stevens' council, 1276 Hoeken — Continued : missionary notes, 471, 482, 483, 551, 600, 1277 mention, 563, 762, 764, 772, 13 18 letters from, 1229, 1238, 1276 Hoeken, Rev. Christian, S. J., at Council Bluffs, 1840, 258 death, 185 1, 61, 641, 1475, 1478 letters from, 1250, 1255, 1257, 1259 Honey, wild, 636 Horned toads, see " Salamanders " Horse Plains, 347, 358, 371, 472, 972 Horse river, 673 Hudson Bay Co., 294, 355, 357, 373, 384, 389, 478, 518, 528, 541, 542, 552, 553, 554, 960, 1394, 155 1 posts, 531, 554 Huet, Brother Charles, 278, 309, 377 Hughes, Bishop, letters from, 1562, 1582 Humboldt, voyage, 1853, 702 Hunkpapas, 859, 881 Huybrechts, Brother Francis, 408, 759, 762, 799, 1242, 1268 Icebergs, 418, 841 Idaho, name, 788 in 1864, 15 19 Ignace, Old, Flathead, 20, 28, 29, 290 Ignace, Young, Flathead, 29, 198, 290, 292 Ignatius, Iroquois, 399, 401, 1246 Illinois and Iowa in 1867, 861 Immel river, 662 Immigration, European, 647, 685, 698, 707, 710, 925, 1428, 145 1, 1457 western, 199, 230, 276, 557, 644, 671, 719, 740, 810, IIII, 1 192, 1206, 1402, 1421, 1476, 1518 Imoda, Father, 600, 786, 793, 834 Independence, Mo., 200, 258 Independence Rock, Wyo., 214, .1348 Indian characteristics, social cus toms, etc. : abandon aged and infirm, 219, 975, 1270 INDEX, 161I Indian characteristics — Cont'd : abstinence from liquor, 165, 397, 802, 913, 1085 adoption, 585, 675, 680, 903, 994, 1232 adultery, 943, 993, 1074, 1162, 1224 agriculture, see General Index amusements, 156, 282 bathing, 225, 373, 524, looi berdache, 1017 cannibalism, 509, 989 child murder, 326, 559, 572, 649, 1270 children, treatment, 151, 155, 156, 281, 321, 326, 572, 630, 649, 789, 829, 87s, 918, looi, 1006, 1093 clothing, 15s, 217, 247, 283, 321, 539, 556, 580, 596, 683, 789, 999 cookery, 490, 511, 535, 558, 1002, 1 141 corporal punishment, 324, 767, 1086, 1 162, 1 180, 1225 dances, 165, 178, 190, 566, 580, 590, 596, 606, 680, 917, 938, 105s, 1058 dogs, 156, 361, 509, 556, 633, 680, 682, 829, 938, 964 dreams, 945, 1017, 1119, 1122 dwellings, 155, 162, 168, 191, 201, 246, 255, 281, 347, 558, 605, 651, 974, 1271 eating, 156, 246, 282, 357, 372, 559, 90s eclipses, 940, 1067 epidemics, 188, 245, 269, 451, 475, S08, 524, 649, 650, 785, 856, 994, 113s, 1235, 1248, 1283 eye diseases, 1013 faculty of observation, 235, 654, 1015 familiarity, 441, 523 famine, 361, 376, 489, 535, 820, 856, 857, 123 1 feasts, 189, 212, 239, 246, 261, 469, 489, 605, 633, 680, 682, 909, 938, 979, 1061, 1094 ferocity of women, 220, 524, 578, 1043 fishing, 385, 441, 480, 482, 487, 525, 556 food, 156, 192, 212, 345, 358, 375, 467, 488, 499, 509, 511, 535, 558, S6i, 633, 655, 680, 682, 757, 938, 959, 1390 Indian characteristics — Cont'd : gambling, 156, 227, 370, SS9, 667, 1004, 1233 girls sold for horses, 572, 1007, 1092, 1212 gratitude, 745, 1231, 1238 hair, 282, 285, 590, 1012 honesty, 227, 542, 765, 797, 960. 993, 1223, 1272 horses, property, stealing, etc., 157, 202, 217, 238, 349, 363, 480, 509, 512, 520, 576, 597, 991, 1247, 1272 hospitality, 227, 253, 373, 394, 539, 605, 607, 797, 1058, 1273 idiots, 633 idleness, 157, 441, 559, 667, 1093 industry, 760, 959, 1271, 1284 inebriety, 158, 163, 172, 184, 258, 512, 1213, see also " Liquor " in General Index influence of chiefs, 322, 458, 575, 878, 994, 1004, 1087, 1 124 languages, 163, 212, 261, 283, 338, 381, 512, 594, 627, 651, 952, 1005, 1381 lovemaking, 153, 1092, 1416 marriage, 459, 572, 955, 1130, 1212, 1416 modesty, 321, 460, 580, 680, 960, 1061 monogamy, 596 mortuary, burial, etc., 205, 219, 245, 382, 454, 521, 556, 558, 619, 649, 722, 908, 941, 989, 1019, 1047, 1091, 1 141 mourning, 219, 237, 285, 398, 511, 579, 941 murder, 943, 1071 mutilation, 219, 237, 398, 579, 629, 667, 947, 1380 native arts, 246, 250, 558, 959, 1002, 1003 nomadic life, 163, 877 noses, bite off, 173, 176, 1214 oratory, 829, 832, 880, 915 paying for murder, 171, 190, 598, 625, 679, 1019, 1090 picture-writing, 681, 1099 poisoning, 172, 187, 1089, IC95, 1 1 13, 1 134, 1 140 polygamy, 157, 163, 332, 370, 559, 572, 596, 952, 1212 sale of children, 173, 990 self-command, 1014, 1088 l6l2 INDEX. Indian characteristics — Cont'd : sensuality, 667 sign language, 237, 589, 681 singing, 178, 363, 580, 581, S9i, 905, 908, 1059 skunk-scent, 1000 slavery, 1004 smoking, 156, 165, 211, 217, 251, 252, 280, 324, 37S,.ioi9, 1058 surgery and medicine, 524, 573, 663, 785, 1012, 1013, 1055, 1094 tattooing, 980 thieving, 154, 396, 512, 561, 625, 943, 954, 1039, 1073 truthfulness, 227, 944, 1417 uncleanliness, 155, 441, 510, 558, 1002, 1012 utensils, 155, 489, 558, 1002 wampum, 1018 women, treatment of, S09, 525, 649, 955, 1012, 1018, 1020, 1091, 1092, 1272 excess, 952 Indian legends : Arrow lakes, 549 Beaver, 665, 1375, 1393 Calumet, 1009 Cascades of Columbia, 555 Chain of Rocks, 876 Chipiapoos, 1046, 1080 Creation, 525, 1014, 1065, 1079, 1099 Deluge, 975, 1079, 1 105, 1378 Grand medicine, 1083 Heaven, 526 Kitchechaonissi, 1095 Morning star, 976 Nanaboojoo, 1080, 1098 Piasa bird, 1088 Porcupine and beaver, 512 Rainbow, 840, 1105 Sacred fire, 1047 Separation, Aricaras and Paw nees, 1381 Assiniboins and Sioux, 1142, 1382 Crows and Grosventres, 1381 Thunder, 936, 945, 1083, 1099 Wanity Butte, 1380 Wawanosh, iioo Woman in moon, 1094 Indian lore, value of, 1218 missions. Catholic, confid&il to Society of Jesus, 8 relics, 1008, 15 17 Indian Question, D.'s relation to, 118 in 1838, 166 184s, 486 1846, 948 1849, I 186 185 1, 646, 684, 1202 1853, 143 I 1854, 935, 1 1 10, 1201 1855. 1454 1858, 726, 731, 740, 748, '758, 1 195 1859, 972 1863, 785 1864, 789, 792, 795, 820, 833 186s, 844 1866, 856, 858, 1200 1867, 860, 874, 877, 879, 88s 1868, 895 1872, 1342 Irving on, 208 Captain Mullan on, 800 Indians, religious ideas, pagan: animal worship, 559, 565, 940 baptism, notion of, 953 blasphemy, 162, 459, 944, 1074, 1088 calumet, see General Index conjuring, juggling, etc., 250, 938 Creator, reverence, etc., 219, 243, 253, 265, 267, 560, 936, 1003, 1064, 1079 De Smet's essay on, 1062 divination, prophecy, etc., 204, 473, 663, 1094 ear cutting, 679 evil spirit, 1065, 1079 fire worship, 1044 future life, 382, 522, 525, 526, 665, 942, 975, 1003, 1075, 1084, 1091, 1 120, 1270 ghosts, 941, 1075, 1161 human sacrifice, 171, 559, 976 " medicine," medicine-men, etc., 170, 250, 522, 566, 672, 692, 942, 1028, 1064, 1068, 1082, 1093, 1112, 1147, 1148, 1150, 1212, 1270 medicine dance, 566, 939, 1055 morning star, 976 oaths, 944, 1074 prayer, 285, 326, 473, 490, 682, 937, 1085 reverence, 284, 632, 667, 874 INDEX. 1613 Indians, religious ideas, pagan — Continued : sacrifice, 604, 606, 666, 936, 947, 1066, 1074 spring medicine lodge, 937 sun and moon worship, 595, 606, 666, 939, 947, 1069 superstitions, 163, 218, 256, 322, 520, 559, 565, 634, 945, 1017, 1036, 1 141, 1378 thunder, 936 Indians, religious notes. Catholic : Arapahos, 679 Aricaras, 857 Assiniboins, 510, 857, 934 Bannocks, 314 Blackfeet, 338, 364, 391, 528, 579, 593, 599, 600, 635, 772, 786, 947, 1235, 1301, 1316, 1318, 1337 Briile Sioux, 679 Carriers, 539 Cheyennes, 211, 260, 679 Coeur d'Alenes, 317, 346, 374, 377, 392, 444, 461, 464, 471, 565, 744, 761, 764, 799, 1143, 1301 Crees, 371, 519 Crows, 239, 240, 266, 395, 793, 955, 1236, 1310, 1318, 1337 Diggers, 990, 1032 Flatbows, 483, 490 Flatheads, 19, 220, 224, 234, 240, 263, 290, 293, 328, 338, 359, 361, 367, 391, 470, 579, 765, 795, 1300, 1480, 1 50 1 Gens du lac, 482, 549, 801 Kalispels, 346, 354, 356, 358, 370, 373, 458, 480, 801, 1302 Kansas, 285 Kettles, 339, 357, 381, 382, 480, 542, 551, 801, 1235, 1266, 1302 Kickapoos, 151, 162 Kootenais, 346, 371, 483, 494, 519, 765, 796, 961, 1233, 1302 Mandans, 857 Minnetarees, 652, 857 Nez Perces, 19, 230, 338, 787, 1302 Ogallalas, 678, 722 Okinagans, 381, 383, 481, 483, 801, 1302 Omahas, 166, 1257 Osage Sioux, 679 Otoes, 162 Palooses, 745 Pawnees, 165 Indians, religious notes. Catholic — Continued : Pawnee Loups, 722 Pend d'Oreilles, 220, 263, 318, 392, 468, 472, 797, 801, 1301 Poncas, 626 Potawatomies, 157, 164, 168, 517, 928 Saulteurs, 522 Sinpoils, 339, 483, 801 Sioux, 190, 252, 256, 517, 608, 609, 629, 63s, 856, 932, 1303 Snakes, 218, 262 Spokans, Zingomenes, 379, 483, 1302 Winnebagoes, 820 Yakimas, 1302 Yankton Sioux, igo, 1280 Indian . tribes, see "Absaroka," "Ampajoot," "Arapaho," "Arcs-, a-plat," "Aricara," "Ashiganes," "Assiniboin," "Atnan," "At tayes," " Bannock," " Beaver Hunter," "Blackfeet," "Black feet Sioux," " Blacksnake," "Blood," "Brule," "Calkobin," " Carrier," " Cayuse," " Chau diere," " Cheyenne," " Chi nook," "Chippewa," " Cho punnish," " Cinq Poil," " Clat sop," " Cceur d'Alene," " Co manche," " Cree," " Crow," " Dakota,'' " Deer Skin," "Delaware," " Digger," " Dign es de Pitie," " Flatbow," " Flathead," " Flatside Dog," " Fox," " Gens du Lac," " Grosventre," " Hidatsa," " Hunkpapa," " Iroquois," " Ito- aten," " Iowa," " Kalispel," " Kameloup," " Kansas," "Kettle," "Kickapoo," "Koo tenai," " Kettle Sioux," " Ltao- ten," "Lake," "Little Robe," " Mandan," " Minnetaree," " Montagnes,'' " Nez Perce," "Navajo," " Otae," "Omaha," " Okinagan," " Ogallala," " Osier," " Osage," " Pawnee," " Paloos," " Pend d'Oreille," " Pondera," " Potawatomi," " Pointed Heart," " Porteur," " Piegan," " Ponca," " Pah- ute," " Poor Devil," " Pueblo," i6i4 INDEX. Indian tribes — Continued : "Sapetan," "Saulteur," "Shaw nee," " Shoshone," " Sinpoil," "Sioux," "Snake," "Spokan," " Soshoco," " Skoyelpi," " Skal zi," " Shouwapemoh," " Shoo- swap," " Slave," " Sock," " San tee," " Sans-arc," " Sarcee," " Sauk," " Sampeetche," " Sin- pavelist," " Sihasapa," " Two- kettle," " Utah," " Ute," " Walla Walla," " Winnebago," " Yakima," " Yam-pah-Ute," " Yankton," " Yanktonnais," " Ziarzapa," " Zingomene." Indian visits to civilization, 691, 767, 1 177 Indian warfare: anecdotes, 220, 256, 261, 287, 320, 323, 36s, 399, 520, 573, 629, 721, 773, 1037, 1 128, 1 136, 1 183 asylum for enemy, 285, 597, 1040, 1247 coups, 578, 629 cruelty, 248, 628, 860, 1128 eagle- feathers, 282, 789, 860, 1034 fasting, 247, 629 fighting-ground, 399, 1375 martial law, 878 sacrifice, 248, 666 scalping, 171, 217, 247, 285, 399, 628, 679, 827, 1039, 1 128 scalp-dance, 256, 399, 629, 1061, 1 128 self-torture, 248, 256, 629, 666 Sioux tactics, 827 treachery, 314, 323, 365, 597, 1039, 1132 treatment of prisoners, 220, 249, 1037 vengeance, 398, 508, 519, 573,593, 598, 625, 911, 1014, 1038, 1 181 war-dance, 248, 1059 war-parties, 219, 245, 398, 582, 606, 628, 791, 1034, 1 122 women and boys fight, 578 Infaiigable, brig, voyage 1844, 408, 428, 440, 452 Inscriptions by D., 230, 299, 545, 670, 1349 Insula, see " Michael " Iowa Indians, 152, 162, 612 Ireland, visit to, 1843, 1466 Irish Blackfoot chief, 592 Irish, tribute to, 862 Iroquois Indians, tell northwestern tribes of Blackrobes, 19, 289, 327, 366 early savagery, 286, 319, 366 individuals in northwest, 29, 230, 257, 344, 371, 380, 387, 399, 455, 536, 547, 1246 Irrigation, 571, 994 Irving, W., quoted, 20, 188, 207, 211, 215, 247, 27s, 283, 1346, 135 1 Islands, Lake of, 537 Itineraries, 147, 193, 403, 613, 693, 777, 926 Itoaten Indians, see " Carrier," 539 Jackson's Hole, 221 Jackson's Little Hole, 221 James, Dr. Edwin, 178 Jasper House, 531, 542 Jasper, Lake, 534 Jefferson river, 231, 582 Jocko reservation, 317 Johnson, Pres. Andrew, view of, 1444 Joset, Rev. Joseph, S. J., comes to America, 1843, 444 in Coeur d'Alene war, 749 letter 'from, 801 letter to, 1474 missionary notes, 316, 471, 565, 567, 756, 762, 764, 1235, 1246, 1266 Judith river, 590, 602 K Kalispel, see also "Pend d'Oreille,'' Indians visits to, 1840-42, 277, 346, 349, 358, 370,, 373 spends winter 1844-45 among, 466 in 1858 war, 731, 755, 967 notes, 354, 356, 457, 524, 563, 995, 1241 Kalispel bay, 457, 461, 472, 474, 480, 562 lake, 355, 484, 550 mountain, 562 Kameloup Indians, 477 Kamiakin, Yakima chief, 748, 7(6, 968, 1572, 1576 INDEX, l6ls Kansas, 1854, iiio, 1208 1858, 1 192 settlement, 720 Kansas (City), 691 Indians, 201, 280 river, 279, 645, 689, 1359 Kearny, Gen. Stephen W., 158, 176 Keokuk, Kickapoo prophet, 151, 108s son kills white man, 175 Kettle Falls, 480, 548, 801 Kettle, Guyelpitoeg, Sioushwaps river, 551 Kettle (Falls), Chaudiere, Skoy elpi, Indians, 339, 356, 357, 381, 382, 482, 542, 551, 967, 1005 Kettle Sioux, 825 Kickapoo Indians, 1085 village, 1838, ISO, 161 King Hill, 612 Kipp, James, 269 Knife river, 606 Know-nothings, 131, 1457 Kootenai, Skalzi, Indians : visited, 1842, 371; 1845, 493; 1859, 76s in 1858 war, 731, 967 notes, 346, 483, 491, 957, 998, 1005, 1224 Kootenai, McGilvray, Arcs-a-plats, river, see also " Flatbow," 487, 493, 501, 549, 958 Kossuth, 1458, 1482 La Barge, Capt. Joseph, 106, 126, 638, 1533, 1534, 1545 La Framboise, Fort Rice, 890, 894 Lake Indians, Gens du lac, 356, 482, 548, 1005 Lake of Souls, 347 Lamy, Bishop, Santa Fe, invites D., 1452 Langlois, Rev., 476 Lansdale, R. H., Flathead agent, 1238, 1241 Laramie Fork, 210 Larpenteur, Charles, 596, 1 108, 1254 letter to, 1470 Leavenworth (also Fort), Kansas, ISO, 175, 637, 719, 817, 818 in 1858, 720 Lee, Revs. Jason and Daniel, 449, 455 Leopold, King, decorates D., 87 Leopold I., voyage, 696, 710 D. thanks captain, 713 Lewes, John Lee, Fort Colville, 552, 553, 557 Lewis and Clark, 343, 1176, 1400, 1534 Lewis Fork, see also " Snake river," 306, 455 Life in open air, 544, 560, 563, 627, 77^, 90s, 993 Lima, Peru, 430 Lincoln, President, inter-view, 1862, 1504, 150S, 1507 introduced by Thuriow Weed, 1863, 1583 Linton, Dr. Moses L., 142, 923 Liquor traffic, Indian, 152, 158, 172, 175, 184, 397, 595, 722, 795, 802, 929, 948, 1088, IIIO, 1206, 1213, 1321, 1324, 1394, 1538 Lisa, Manuel, trading post, 1533 Little Blue river, 721 Little Cheyenne river, 607 Little Chief, Flathead, see "Mi chael " Piegan, 597 Little Medicine river, 636, 649 Little Missouri river, 908, 1358 Little Robe band, Blackfeet, 593, 595, 949 destruction, 524 Little Rocky mountains, 793, 1370 Little Sioux river, 643, 864 Little Wolf mountains, 666, 668 Lizette the mule, 348, 351, 371, 381 Log, Soliveau, Sioux chief, 904, 1222, 1589 Lolo Fork, St. Francis Borgia, St. Francis Regis, river, 343, 569, 769, 798 Loras, Bishop, Dubuque, 517 Louise Sighouin, Cceur d'Alene, story, 771 Loyola, Standing Grizzly, Kalispel chief, 771, 1 174, 1229 Ltaoten Indians, see " Carrier " Lyons Association for Propagation of Faith, 277, 354, 392 Lyons, Brother, 565 M Macdonald, Archibald, 357 Mackenzie river, 517, 538, 543 Madeira island, 411 Madison Fork, 231, 340, 391, 393 i6i6 INDEX, Magri, Brother Vincent, 444, 565, 762, 772, 1242 Maline river, 534 Mallet Brothers, name Platte river, 27s Mandan Indians, destruction, 189, 269, 1 135 visits to, 245, 651, 78s, 790, 828, 857 notes, 666, 676, 832, 882, 1135, 1279, 1381, 1537 Manitou, St. Anne, lake, 516 Mankizita Watpa river, see "White Earth" Manson, Donald, 557 Maps by D., 561, 662, 1497, 1565, 1581 Marias river, 601, 793, 1357 Marriages, 164, 170, 177, 178, 332, 341, 359, 470, 499, 537, 870, 880, 882, 1258, 1499 Martin, Dr. W. T., 803 Martin's Rapid, 547 Mason and Slidell affair, 1434 Mauvaise Anse, 602 Maximilian of Wied, 604, 663, 1108 May-poles, 545 Mazelli, Brother, 157, 161, 168 McBean, William, 560 McGean or McGill, Brother J. B., 44, 444, 478, 762, 1233, 1242, 1268 McGilvray river, see also " Koote nai," 493 McKenzie, Fort Union, 1132, 1495 McKenzie, Owen, murder, 81 McKinlay, Archibald, Fort Walla Walla, 455, 560, 1468 McLeod's Fork, 534 McLoughlin, Dr. John, sketch, 355 friendship and advice, 41, 196, 388,443 D. brings case to Senator Ben ton's notice, 1475 mention, 294, 339, 447, 476, 542 letter to, 1468, 1560 letters from, 1553, 1555, 1556, 1557 Meagher, General, letter to, 1526 Medicine river, 534 Meldrum, Robert, Crow interpreter, 1063, 1310, 1495 letter to, 1484 Menetrey, Rev. Joseph, S. J., 444, 762, 961, 1239, 1242, 1318, 1501 Mengarini, Rev. Gregory, S. J. : crosses plains, 1841, 278, 301; 309 introduces useful arts, 572 missionary notes, 316, 330, 334, 338, 392, 452, 455, 466, 470 Merrill, Rev. Moses, 154, 176 Metals, precious, knowledge of, 51, 1421, 15 10, 1519 declines to tell, 1508, 15 11 tells Gen. Pleasonton, 1521 discoveries, 83, 1321, 1377 notes, 493, 514, 529, 671, 959 Meteor seen at sea, 416 Mexico in 1866, 1448 annexation predicted, 1456 Mormons to emigrate to, 1408 Mica, 668 Michael, Insula, Red Feather, Little Chief, Flathead chief, 28, 267, 304, 322, 366, 766, 1231, 1236, 1245, 1248 D. sends pistols to, 1485 Michael, Kootenai chief, 964 Miege, Bishop, 689, 693, 702, 703, 70s, 817, 1 199 D. sends cigars to, 1503 Miette river, 534, 539 Milk river, 602, 793 boat unloaded at, 1863, 791, 809 Mill creek, 356 Mine-wakan, Devil's lake, 788 Minnetarees, Hidatsa, Osiers, see also " Grosventres of the Mis souri," visits, 277, 651, 785 at Council, 1851, 653, 674, 676 notes, 399, 667, 882, 1279 Miraculous occurrences, 359, 362, 577, 631, 773, 831, 866, 1283 Missions, Canada, decay, 1209 mountain, view, 1839, 1464 see "Sacred Heart," "St. Igna tius," " St. Mary's," " St, Paul," " St. Francis Xavier," " St. Stanislaus," " St. Francis Borgia," " St. Francis Regis," " St. Peter " Mississippi, dangers of navigation, 709 traffic, 1402, 1425 valley, 1365, 1403 or Missouri, main stream? 1386 INDEX, 1617 Missouri in war-time, 1431, 1504, 1505 after war, 1444, 1446, 1449, 1462 Missouri river, name, 1355 scenery, 161, 181, 199, 639, 644 sketch, 848, 1355, 1362, 1365 canoe navigation, 190, 257, 270, 343, 401, 601, 636, 774 steam navigation, 153, 161, 198, 279, 402, 612, 639, 774, 783, 790, 817, 846, 866, 869, 881, 901, 1363 Mitchell, D. D., Superintendent In dian affairs, 615, 674, 675, 683, 687, 688, 934, 1481 letter from, 1565 Mix, Hon. Mr., letter to, 1510 Modeste, British war brig, 486 Molelis, name for Mt. Jefferson, 450 Monroe, Munroe, Canadian inter preter, 527, 528, 1559 Montagnes Indians, 535, 536 Monumental Elkhorn Prairie, 604, 1371 Moreau river, 607 Morigeau family, 51, 498 Mormons at Winter Quarters, 1846, 56, 611, 1404 settlement on Niobrara, 610 rebellion, 68, 717, 1413 returning to States 1858, 727 chapter on, 1402 religion, sketch, 1408 notes, 686, 1217, 1258, 1309, 1313, . 1457 Mortality in Northwest, 389 Moses, Flathead chief, see " Stiet tiedloodsho " Mosquitoes, 621, 657, 1392 Mosquito lake, see " Red Rock lake " river, 612 Mountain lion, 1401 Mt. Calvary (Bitter Root chain), 390, 46s, 770 Mt. Hood, 450, 479 Mullan, Capt. John, aids missions, 1233, 1318 on Indian Question, 799 on Flatheads, 1225, 1263, 1266, 1272, 1338 letter to, 1500 MuUan's Pass, 772 (?), 795 Multnomah river, see " Willa mette," 475 Muratori, historian Paraguay mis sions, 306, 328, 329, 1391 Musselshell, Muscle-shell, river, 584, 602, 853 mountains, 586 N Names, geographical, given by D., 307, 343, 383, 456, 457 (?), 463, 499, 562, 563, 772 for D., 377, 383, 538, 668 Napoleon IIL, D. sees, 695 Navajo Indians, D. invited to, 1452 Nebraska, name, 203, 275 City, 158 State Historical Society reports, 154, 1533 territory, 1851, 1202; 1854, mo, 1208 Neptune, 414, 644 tribute, 410, 696, 703, 711, 732, 841, 924 Nerinckx, Rev. Charles, brings D. to America, 10 New Caledonia, 380, 389, 444, 472, 477, 534, 551, 1019 Nez Perce, Sapetan, Indians, name, 19 meetings, 1840-42, 277, 337, 338, 390 in Flathead camp, 1846, 572, 574, 58s, 593 in war, 1858, 752, 1248 notes, 318, 323, 362, 365, 464, 480, 991 Nez Perce river (Snake river), 455 Niagara Falls and theology, 114 Niagara, Atlantic steamer, 706 Nicholas, Blackfoot chief, 338, 363, 587 Nicollet, Jean N., 16, 179, 186, 276, 618 letters from, 1549, 1552 furnishes D. instruments, 1553 Niobrara, Eau qui court, river, 610, 618, 622, 625, 635, 645, 1358, 1384 Nishnabotna river, 154, 177, 612, 1257 Nobili, Rev. John, 408, 475, 477, 539, 551, 1469 Nodaway river, 612 i6i8 INDEX, North Fork of Platte, crossing, 309 North Platte, council 1868, 900 North Sea, 409 O'Connell, Daniel, seen by D., 45, 1467 O'Connor, J. C, Sioux agent, let ters to, 1545, 1546 Ode to Rocky Mountains, 1353 Ogallalas, see also " Sioux," 629, 678, 722, 85s Ogden, Peter Skeen, 384, 389, 485 O'Gorman, Bishop, Omaha, 818 Okinagan Indians, 381, 383, 481, 482, 731, 1005 lake, 383 Old Man, Napi, Wizakeschak, Blackfoot creator, 525 Omaha (City), 774, 818, 899 antiquities, 1533, 1534 Indians, 1838, 165, 166, 172; 1839, 188, 191; 1848, 628, 1 188; 1851, 651 Ontario, voyage, 1866, 846, 1062 Opossums, 1395 Oregon City, 453, 476, 553 Oregon, opinion of, 1852, 1476 Question, 129, 438, 485, 486, 1202, 1560 river (for Columbia), 482 Territory, settlement and religi ous progress, 476 Trail, Great, 671, 1312, 1476 war, Indian, 1858, see " Yakima " Osage Indians, 651, 720 Osier Indians, see " Minnetarees," 651 Otoe Indians in 1838, 154, 162, 17G notes, 517, 617, 688, 1091, 1188 Owen, Major, Flathead agent, 1859, 967 Owl (Head) Buttes, 659, 662 Pacific ocean, 419, 428, 807 Pah-Utes, 989 Palladino, quoted, 23, 28, 39, 45, 261, 267, 316, 360, 386, 388, 444, 474, 510, 592 Paloos Indians, 455, 561, 731, 745, 748, 991 Panama, Isthmus, 733, 762, 807 Pananniapapi, Strikes the Ree, Yankton chief, 826, 865, 868, 870, 884, 1059, 1282, 1526 Pandosy, Father, 748 Papin, Bellevue, 612 Papillon river, 612 Paraguay, ancient system, 283, 306, 317,. 327, 328, 330, 366, 469, 917 Paris, visits, 695, 702 Parker, Gen. E. S., Peace Commis sioner, Commissioner of Indian Affairs, 879, 1536 letters to, 1292, 1296, 1299, 1333, 1334, 1538 Parker, " Iconoclast," Rev. Samuel, 27, 267, 380 Parmentier, Mrs. S., 445, 470, 562, 1 192 Patagonia, 419 Patakojec, Potawatomi chief, 611, 1078 Paul, Flathead chief, see " Big Face" of Wurtemberg, Prince, 685 Pavilion river, 561 Pawnees in 1838, 165; 1841, 287 Council, 1851, 687 a fight, 1858, 721 chapter on, 974 notes, 204, 285, 517, 651, 1188, 1381 Peace river, 516, 517, 518, 534, 538, 543 Peacemaker, D.'s work as, 190, 257, 575, 599, 606, 630, 743, 763, 766, 812, 859, 874, 967 Pembina river, 534 Pend d'Orielle, Pondera, Indians, see also "Kalispels," in 1840, 220, 263; 1841, 318, 342, 357 notes, 277, 365, 572, 573, 765, 967, 992, 1271 Pend d'Oreille lake, 349, 550 traverse, 356 Perkins, Rev. H. K. W., 45s, 559 ( ?) Persecution, religious, 131, 705, 706, 935, 1448, 14s I Peru, visit to, 428 Peter, Iroquois, 293, 1247 Pend d'Oreille chief, see "Cha lax " Petrifactions, 244, 659, 669, 907 Picotte, Honore, 607, 608 Piegans, see also " Blackfeet," 587, 593, 595, 790, 949 INDEX, 1619 Pierce, President, D. meets, 66, 693 Pierre, le Gaucher, 29, 30, 198, 216, 290 Pierre's Hole, 223, 228 Pilchimo, Flathead, 292, 314, 320 Piney Fork, 668 Pipestone Quarry, 1358 Plain of Prayer, 383 Plains, western, sketch, 1347 Platte river, name, 203, 275, 135 1 navigation, 135 1 scenery, 203, 686, 724, 1349, 1383 incidents of travel, 207, 308, 309, 311, 612, 644, 686, 721 Pleasonton, Gen. Alfred, friend ship, 7z letters to, 966, 1521 from, 1570, 1571, 1572, 1573, 1574, 1575, 1577, 1580, 1582 Plymouth, England, 411 Point, Rev. Nicholas, S. J., at Westport, 1840, 258 on 184 1 Journey, 278, 280, 282, 301, 306, 311 work among Flatheads, 240, 330, 337, 354 on buffalo hunt, 360, 390, 391 at Sacred Heart, 377, 464, 471, 565, I 147 to Blackfeet, 567, 600, 773, 949, 1236 drawings, 39 mention, 510, 590 Pointed Arrow creek, gold on 1522 Pointed Heart Indians, see " Coeur d'Alenes " Poisoning among Indians, 172, 187, 1089, 1095, 1 1 13, 1 134, 1 140 Pomme blanche, 253, 906 Ponca Indians, 625, 651, 1188 Ponderas, see " Pend d'Oreilles " Poor Devil Indians, see " Dig gers," 1032 Pope Gregory XVI, 45, 87, 1341 Pius IX, 628, 634, 836 Poplar river, 604, 909 Porcupines, 503, 509, 511, 512 Porcupine creek, 604 Portage mountains, 492 river. Great, 544, 546 Porteur Indians, see " Carrier,'' 539 Portland, Oregon, 1863, 805 Portneuf river, 303 Potawatomi Indians, in 1838, 172; in 1846, 611; in 1847, 1087; in 1858, 720, 1 194; in 1870, 928 legends, 382, 1078 mission at Council Bluffs, 14, 157, 258, 1463 on Sugar Creek, Kan., 517, 689, 928, 1548 Powder river, 669, 910 Prairie de la Messe, 262 Prairie dogs, 205, 622, 872, 1395 Presents to Indians, 682, 687, 900 Priest lake and river, 550 Princess, German-Indian, 891 Protestant missions and clergy, 26, 123, 152, 154, 165, 167, 230, 279, 284, 286, 296, 318, 339, 347, 379, 388, 449, 453, 454, 456, 559, 677, 801, 991, 121 1, 1285, 1305, 1316, 1320, 1416, 1419, 1445, 1454, 1457, 155 1 Provencher, Bishop, 652 Prudhomme, Gabriel, 226, '264, 292, 575, 583 Pueblo Indians, D. invited to, 1452, 1524 Pumpkin Buttes, 669 Purcell, Bishop, letter from, 1561 Purgatory, souls in, obtain clear sky, 712 Quille or Quilax, Mary, Flathead heroine, 578 R Railroads, dangers of, 1853, 708 Rankin, Col., Fort Buford, meer schaum for, 1528 Rapids of Columbia, Great, 547 Rattlesnakes, 210, 622, 663, 1391 Ravalli, Rev. Anthony, S. J., 84, 317, 408, 476, 483, 760, 796, 1240, 1246, 1274, 1501 Ravoux, Bishop, 790, 1192 Record Rock on Heart river, 1378 Red Buttes, Wyoming, 213, 670 Red Cloud, Sioux chief, 904, 908 Red Deer river, 514 Red Fish, Ogallala chief, and fam ily, 630, 791, 809, 83s Red river, 516, 520 Red Rock lake, 229, 231 Reduction, the term, 306 l620 INDEX, Rencontre, Zephyr, Sioux interpre ter, 891, 1310 letter to, 1472 Rendezvous, fur trade, 216, 261, 294, 299 Reservations, Indian, 676, 748, 820, 886, 972, 1200, 1203, 1241, 1291, 1330, 1579 Rocky Mountains, 213, 1345 Rocky Mountain House, 513, 518 Roeloff, Father, humorous letter concerning, 1489 Rolette, Joseph, Fort Union, 1494 letter to, 1496 Romaine, an Englishman, 1841, 276, 280, 295, 1349, 1398 Roothaan, Lake (Priest lake), 550 Rosati, Bishop, 23, 29, 30 Rosebud river, 665, 667 Rosecrans (General?), W. S., let ter to, 1487 Rothenflue, Rev., charges literary fraud, 1531 Roubidoux, Joseph, 151 Roubidoux' Trading-post, 684 Routes to Pacific coast, 1327 Rowand or Rowan, John, 527, 528, 530, 531, 533, 543 letter from, 1559 Rules for Indians at missions, 328, 332 Ryan, Bishop, funeral oration, 1592 Sacred Heart, Ladies of, 517 mission to Coeur d'Alenes, 377, 456, 464, 565, 759, 764, 769, 799, 1 174 Sage, Rufus B., quoted, 610, 1418 St. Ange, voyage, 1851, 638 St. Anne, Manitou, lake, 516, 532 St. Francis Borgia (or Regis) river, see "Lolo Fork'' station, Pend d'Oreilles, 472, 572 St. Francis Regis station, Crees, 483, 562 St. Francis Xavier creek, 307 mission, Cowlitz valley, 449 Willamette, 450, 453, 454, 475, 478, 553 St. Ignatius creek, see " Deer Lodge " and " Hell Gate " reduction, first, 461, 471, 474, 483, 551, 560, 562 St. Ignatius creek — Continued : mission, present, 122, 444, 474, 765, 771, 795, 967, 1267, 1589 founding, 1232, 1242 river (Coeur d'Alene r), 456, 464, 562, 567, 757 St. James' church, Vancouver, 553 St. John's church, Oregon City, 553 St. Joseph, Mo., 151, 612, 636, 818, 1255 Potawatomi mission, 15, 29, 157, 168, 171, 183 river, 456, 464, 562, 757, 1275 St. Louis University, founding, 1829, 7 D. obtains equipment, 1834, 14 St. Mary lake, Montana, 772 of the Willamette, 453, 553 St. Mary's (Flathead) mission, 316, 358, 360, 390, 444, 464, 508, 570, 582, 765, 796, 1480, 1485 (Potawatomi) mission at Coun cil Bluffs, see "St. Joseph" Sugar Creek, Kas., 689, 729, 787, 1 194, 1293, 1320, 1323 river, see " Bitter Root " St. Paul des Sauteux, 523 mission on Willamette, 389, 443, 448, 454 Station, Colville, 483, 801 St. Paul's (Assiniboin) mission, 510 St. Peter Station, 483, 548 St. Peter's (Blackfoot) mission, 600, 787, 793, 858, 1327 St. Stanislaus' mission, 450 Salamanders, 479, 663, 1395 Salmon, Columbia river, 385, 390, 482, 496, 558 Salt, deposits, 514 . D. sends to Salt Lake for, 1406 Salt Lake City, 1405 Sampeetche Indians, 989 Sanborn, CJen. John B., 900, 920, 922 Sandstone Buttes, 607 Sandy river, 601 San Francisco, 1858, 737, 763 Sans Arcs Indians, 859 Santee Sioux, 833, 855, 883, 1256 Santiago, Chile, 421, 423, 492 Sapetans (see also " Nez Per ces"), 277, 456 INDEX. 162 1 Sarcees, see also " Blackfeet," 949 Sarpy, Peter A., 1255 Sarpy's Post, 611 Saskatchewan river, 504, 520, 529, 538, 543, 549 Sata, a Blackfoot, 587, 590, 596, 599 Sauk Indians, 152, 162, 172, 612, 1087 Sauteux, Saulteur, Indians, 521 Saveo, Brother, 1246 Schloom, Yakima chief, 968, 969, 1572 Schoolcraft, H. R., charged with plagiarism, 1047 friendship with D., 1582 Seals in Columbia river, 385 Sea-sickness, 410, 696, 704, 711, 924 Seattle in 1858, 743 Sechelmeld, Ambrose, a Flathead, 320, 766, 1240, 1249 Selpisto, Pend d'Orielle head chief, 472 Settlement of country, see " Immi gration " Seward, W. H., Secretary of State, issues passport to D., 13 Shawnee Indians, 279 Shea, John G., publisher, 1323 Sheridan, Gen. Philip, 1868, 900 Sherman, Gen. W. T., passport to D., 1866, 84s Peace Commissioner, 895, 898, 900 letter to, 892 mention, 1219, 1291, 1332, 1536 Mrs. General, letter to, 1535 Shetland Islands, 418 Shicka, Bad, Teton, river, 649 Shipwreck, Humboldt, 704 Shonkin, Chantier, creek, 601 Shooswap Indians, 500, 1005 Shoshone Indians, see " Snakes " Shouwapemoh Indians, 477 Sibley, Gen. H. H., 80 Sighouin, Louise, story, 1143, 1323 Sihasapa Indians, Blackfoot-Sioux, 1109 Simon, a Flathead, 291, 324 Simpson, Sir George, 357, 531, 1560 Sinpavelist Indians, 1005 Sinpoil Indians, 339, 356, 387, 482, 483 Sioushwaps river, see " Kettle " Sioux City, 1867, 860, 86s Sioux Indians, see also " Black foot-Sioux," " Brules," " Da kota," " Hunkpapas," " Ket tle," " Ogallala," " Santee," " Sihasapa," " Two-Kettle," " Yankton," " Yanktonnais " name, 608 make peace with Potawatomis, 1838, 178, 190 D.'s first visit to, 1839, 189 meetings with, 1840, 251, 256 visit, 1848, 617, 628 outbreak, 1862, 79, 785 plea for murderers, 15 10 war 1863, 788, 792, 1512 1864, 812, 822 1866, 85s 1867, 859, 1330 1868, 122 1 Council 1868, 890 et seq., 914, 1294 war tactics, 827 anecdotes, 821, 823, 885 notes, 255, 399, 512, 517, 607, 609, 648, 674, 676, 688, 785 Sioux mission, plans for, 609, 635, 835, 857, 932, 1221, 1256, 1260, 1279, 1482, 1492, 1497, 1591 Sisters of Charity for Helena, 928, IS37 of Montreal, 796, 810 Sisters of Notre Dame de Namur, 408, 410, 411, 420, 421, 430, 435, 442, 447, 451, 452, 453, 476, 553 Sitting Bull, Sioux chief, 912, 1586 Skalzi Indians, see also " Flat bow " and " Kootenai," 491, 957- Skarameep lake and river, 382 Skoyelpi Indians, see " Kettle," 731 Skunks as food, 656, 674 essence as perfume, 1000 anecdote of a Father, 1396 Slave Indians, 517 lake, 517 Slavery Question, 1438, 1440 Smallpox among Indians, 188, 245, 269, 565, 649, 651, 952, 1 135, 1235, 1475 Smets, W. A., Utica, letter to, 1314 Snake, Shoshone, Indians, 216, 262, 295, 301, 393, 572, 674, 679 Snake, Nez Perce, river, Lewis Fork, 222, 306, 310, 455, 560 l622 INDEX, Snake stories, 622, 664 Snowshoes, 541, 543, 759 Socialists, French, plan a colony, 1309 . . , Society of Jesus, historical sketch, I first novitiate in U. S., 4 second novitiate, at Florissant, 6 and war draft, 77, 15 14, 1520 prejudices against, 705, 706 in Paraguay, 306 in Peru, 430 in Chile, 424 Sock Indians, 535 Soda Springs, Idaho, 295, 302 Sohon Pass, 390, 568, 770, 798 Soshoco Indians, see " Diggers " South America, notes on, 428 Southern Cross, 417 South Fork Platte, ciossing, 308 South Pass, 193, 215, 298 Spalding, Rev. H. H., 27 Specht, Brother Joseph, 278, 309, 762, 1242 Spokan desert, 379, 480, 561, 746, 970 Zingomenes, Indians, 318, 379, 390, 731. 744, 751, 801, 967, 991, 1248 name, 992 river, Z7%, 456, 463, 561, 563 falls, 563 Spotted Tail, Brule chief, 900 Springs, thermal, 295, 302, 307, 347, 373, 497, 514, 660 Stanley, Gen. D. S., 1297, 1545 letters to, 1289, 1291, 1332 from, 1584 Staten Island, South America, 418 Steamboat, description, see also " Missouri River," 846 rates, 1866, 1327 Steptoe, Col., in Yakima war, 730, 744, 750, 967 Stevens, Gov. I. I., 748, 1234, 1264, 1266, 1267, 1276, 1318, 1501, 1581 letters from, 1568, 1569 Stiettiedloodsho, Bravest of the Brave, Moses, Flathead, or Pend d'Oreille chief, 305, 472, 576, 766, 1224, 1240 Stinking Water, Puante, Shoshone river, 660 Storms at sea, 419 on land, 402, 636, 654, 724, 879 Platte river tornado, 1352 Sublette & Campbell, 1183 Suckley, Dr., on Flatheads, 1267 Sugar Creek, Kansas, 517 Sully, Gen. H. H., 80, 779, 879 letter to, 1279 from, 1588 Sun river, 772 Sweetwater, Sugar, Eau Sucree, river, 214, 297, 1360 Table Creek, Neb., 158, 612, 688 Tadini, Father, 762 Tapon, Francis, a crank, 706 Tappan, Hon. S. F., letters to, 1222, 1337 Tarkio river, 612, 636 Taylor, N. G., Commissioner In dian Affairs, letters to, 8g6, 897 Tchatka, le Gaucher, Assiniboin chief, story, 1 108 mention, 1216 Teaching Indians at missions, 329, 376 Tecumle (?), famous chief, 442 Telgawee, Telgawax, Paloos chief, 748, 751, 968 Termonde, D.'s birthplac(!, 9 revisited, 13, 104, 148, 61-3 statue of D., 107 Terry, Gen. Alfred H., 900, 920, 922 Test oath, Missouri, 133, 1445, 1446, 1449, 1461 Teton mountains, 228, 306 Pass, 222 Bad, Shicka, river, 622 Tetons of the Yellowston