T ilHUiii.t'r it, Lilinr, i'iiiiij:oirr)-ni.:'i ¦vl 1 ^^'•¦". * ^H\ "bZ J i /I • REYNOLDS' HISTORY OF ILLINOIS. EMBRACING ALSO THE HISTORY OF MY LIFE. By JOHN REYNOLDS, Late Governor of Illinois, Member of Congress, Statb Senator, and Representative, Etc., Etc. Wisdom is the great end of history. — Blair. CHICAGO: CHICAGO HISTORICAL SOCIETY. FERGUS PRINTING COMPANY, 244-8 ILLINOIS STREET. 1879. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1879, by Fergus Printing Company, In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. PUBLISHERS' ARGUMENT. No volume can scarcely be of greater interest and value than one tracing the early growth, and reciting the early history, of a Common wealth or a Ration. It need not necessarily be a ponderous tome replete with those hard facts which seem to stand against one's vision like a great wall into which is cut the bare, cold records of accomplish ment. It may be crudely told. It may be httle and modest, and even to the great world quite unknown. But it should glow with the charm surrounding recitals of the every-day experience of those men whose lives are passed in molding the growth, character, and even destiny, of States or Countries, whose true history is thus brightened in detail and heightened by the fascination of reminiscence. For these reasons perhaps no work, written by any citizen of the West, ever deserved so wide a reading and preservation, and was yet so httle known, as "My Own Times", or "Reynolds' History of Illinois", by the late Governor John Reynolds, which has been re claimed from obscurity, and, with considerable correction and revision, is reproduced in the subjoined pages. Not only did "My Own Times" possess charming interest from the blunt tmthflilness of its author, "Old Ranger", as he was known throughout the West in the earlier political days; from the honest fideh- ty with which the most trifling incident is related; in the picturesque grouping of personal experiences with profound events; in the fine blending of men, manners, and means that so strikingly predominate in periods of sectional infancy and the swift changes wrought by aggres sive civilization; but a more important value obtains in its absolute his torical worth. Governor Reynolds passed nearly half a century in most prominent public life. As a "Ranger" in 1813; as Judge Advocate in 1814; as an Illinois Supreme Court Judge; as a member of the Illinois General Assembly; as Governor of Illinois; as a Representative in Congress for seven years, and never absent from his seat during session; as Illinois Canal Commissioner; and finally, as Speaker of the Illinois House; — and all this from the early part of the present century until beyond its noon; — ^his strong, aggressive, manly nature and life were most power ful factors in this period of wonderful transition to Illinois and the West. "My Own Times" thus became an epitome of those days, of their remarkable measures, of their marvelous changes, and a record of many of their great men. PUBLISHERS' ARGUMENT. But brilliant and strong a man as was Governor Reynolds, he knew httle of book-making; less, of book-selling. The manuscript of the work was taken to a Httle "job ofiice" at Bellville, 111., in 1854-5. It is thought that but four hundred copies were issued. They were printed from a common hand-press, and the typography was a miracle of wretchedness. The result was, "My Own Times" remained un-, known. One autumn-day in 1855, as Mr. D. B. Cooke, then Chicago's leading bookseller and publisher, was standing in the entrance to his establish ment, a dray laden with shoe-boxes was backed against the curbing. Perched upon the load sat a tall, gaunt, odd-looking individual who immediately alighted, strode into the store, and, with considerable pro fanity, inquired for the proprietor. Making himself known he was in formed in strong language that his visitor was no less than Governor Reynolds, and, in still stronger language, that he had written a book. The book would not sell. It must sell. He had boxed up every copy and brought them along. Mr. Cooke immediately gave his receipt for about three hundred and fifty copies of "My Own Times", and the emphatic author was driven away upon the trundling dray quite oblivious to the curious crowd his coming had attracted. On October 19, 1857, two years later, Chicago suffered from its then greatest conflagration. A very large amount of property was destroyed, and the lives of twenty-three firemen and prominent citizens were lost in their efforts to stay the flames. The pubHcation -house referred to was also burned and with it nearly every existing copy of Governor Re3Tiolds' work, but a trifling number having been sold. Chicago's great fire of 187 1 nearly completed the work of annihilating the original edition. Copies of the same were not to be found save at such prices as would cause the possibly remaining dozen, to realize a larger total sum than the entire Bellville edition would have brought when issued. The Chicago Historical Society, which is an indefatigable search er after historical treasures and rare works, has not previously possessed a copy; and for such reasons as have been given, "My Own Times", to which has been added a very full and complete index, has been reproduced, it is hoped, in a much more attractive and lasting form, not only for the purpose of supplying the Chicago Historical Society and its members, but to assist in perpetuating the history of the great Commonwealth of Illinois, and the name of one whose public hfe has added no little strength and lustre to her gi-eat power and splendor. INTRODUCTION. An introduction to a new work may be necessary to place it in a proper position before the public, and to effect this object, the writer presents the following: ist. The motives inducing the author to write this volume. The leading object of the writer is to record facts and the progress of events, which may do service to the present and future generations. The rise and progress of a great country is, and always will be interest ing to an intelligent and enHghtened public. The valley of the Mis sissippi is fast becoming an important and interesting country, and in it the State of Illinois is assuming a very high character. The im portant facts and pubUc measures that had a tendency to develop the resources of this great State, and to advance its growth and prosperity, will always be interesting and, the writer hopes, servicable to the people. The author has incorporated in this work sketches of the history of his life. The official stations of the writer have been so long, in so intimately identified with the rise and progress of lUinois, that these sketches seemed to form an humble portion of the history of the country and therefore are presented in the history of his own times. These sketches may also serve to show the public, by the example of the author, that every individual in the State has it in his power, under the most adverse circumstances, to obtain an education. 2nd. The qualifications for the work. The main qualification of the writer in presenting this volume to the pubHc is, his long residence in Ilhnois,' and the various public positions held in the State. He has resided in the country since the year 1800, and has been, during all that long period, an attentive observer of public and private events, which he hopes has enabled him to record, "with truth and accuracy, the most important facts of his own times. Another qualification is his calm and quiet retreat from the turmoils IV INTRODUCTION. and conflicts of pohtics, so that the work, he hopes, records the true history of the times, without prejudice or partiality. A negative qualification also existed with the author, that he was not employed in any other business or occupation, and the writing of this work afforded him an interesting and agreeable employment. 3d. The spirit of the work. On all appropriate occasions, arising out of the facts narrated in the •work, the author has made short pertinant remarks enforcing respect fully on the pubhc, morality and religion, without which no people can be prosperous and happy. At the same time he has with equal efibrt urged the propriety to dispell from their breasts the savage and bitter feelings which unfortunately exist at times among the different religious denominations. Also, he has urged on the pubHc the im portance of education, without which no people can be great or happy, or can a nation exist as a Republic for any length of time. The writer of this volume has likewise attempted to draw the atten tion of the people to the obedience of the laws of the country and to execute them with fidelity on all occasions. These are a few of the outlines of the spirit of the work; but the work itself must on this subject, as well as on all others, speak for itself. With this short introduction the writer submits this volume to the public. THE AUTHOR. Illinois, July 4th, 1855. CONTENTS. PAGE. Introduction, iii CHAPTER I. Early Education forms to a great extent the Character. — The place of the Nativity of the Author, i CHAPTER II. The Emigration of the Author's Father to Tennessee. — Indian Wars. — The murder of George Mann, in 1794, by the Indians,. 3 CHAPTER III. The Early Pursuits and Impressions of the Author.- — His Visit to the Ancient Domicile of his Parents in Tennessee. — His in tense feelings on Seeing the Scenes of his Infancy. — His first School Teachers, 5 CHAPTER IV. The Early Habits, Dress, and Amusements in Tennessee. — Barring Out the School Teacher, — - 7 CHAPTER V. Early History and Commerce of Tennessee, 10 CHAPTER VI. The Emigration of the Author's Father from Tennessee to Kas- kaskia, Ilhnois. — Fort Massacre, 13 CHAPTER VII. First View of the Mississippi and Kaskaskia. — The Indians. — My Father Disliked the Spanish Government. — Remained in Illinois, 1 7 CHAPTER VIII. Illinois in 1800. — The White Population. — The Indian Tribes. — Hard Fate of the Aborgines.— Want of Schools and Churches. — Agriculture — Farming Implements. — Mills. — Counties. — Gov ernment, 19 vi CONTENTS. PAGE. CHAPTER IX. Wilderness in the West in 1800.— The Soil and Surface of Illi nois. — The Prairies. — Is Timber an Advantage to the Country? 24. CHAPTER X. Fort Chartres. — Its History. — Built of Wood in 17 18. — Rebuilt of Rock in 1756. — The French Abandon it in 1765. — British Seat of Government. — Walls Washed down in 1772. — A heap of Ruins in 1855, z^- CHAPTER XL Fort Jefferson. — Its History. — Sketch of Captain Piggot's Life. — Sickness of the Garrison. — Indian Assaults. — Heroic Defence. — Abandonment of the Fort. — Piggot's Fort^The Ferry oppo site St. Louis, Missouri, -. SZ' CHAPTER XIL The French in 1800. — A Different Population. — Devout Chris tians. — A Happy People. — Observance of the Sabbath. — Foild of Dancing. — Dress. — Taste for the Fashions. — No Ambition for Athletic Sports, 36. CHAPTER XIII. The Americans in 1800, and some years thereafter. — Emigrants from the South and West. — Exalted Notions of Freedom and Independence.— Self-Reliance. — Different Employments. — Rais ing Cabins. — Family in the Llouse the same day it was Raised. — Frolics. — Amusements. — Dancing. — Running for the Bottle at a Wedding.— The Dress of the People. — Factory Goods came to Illinois in 1816 and 1818, 40 CHAPTER XIV. The Progress of the Country for five years firom 1800. — Sickness. — "Seasoning" of Emigrants. — Settlements, Ridge Prairie. — Goshen.— Name of Goshen. — Blair on the Site of Belleville. Settlements East and South-West of Belleville. — Colonies in Horse Prairie, East of Kaskaskia. — The French Colonies. Pioneer-Squatters on the Public Lands. — Murders by the In dians. — New Mill. — Shawneetown. — Saline Purchased of the In dians. — Shawneetown Commenced. — Mr. Bell Leased the Sa line.— Big Bay.— Daniel's and Wood-River Settlements Com menced. — ^Wilderness Yields to Improvements. — Population, .. 44 CHAPTER XV. The Morals of the Illinois Pioneers, , >^ CONTENTS. ,vll PAGE. CHAPTER XVI. Gaming and Sports of the Pioneers of Illinois. — Cards. — Loo. — Shooting Matches. — A Keg of Whiskey. — Metheglin. — Horse and Foot-Races. — The Author Engaged in Racing. — ^Working FroUcs. — Females Attend, 51 CHAPTER XVII. Hunting and Fowling in Illinois, 54 CHAPTER XVIII. Agriculture and Commerce in the Pioneer Times of Illinois. — Not much Agriculture and Commerce at the commencement of the present Century. — Commenced to sow Fall Wheat at the New Design. — Sickles. — No Cradles, no Horse-Reapers, no charge for Reaping. — French raised Spring Wheat. — A Dollar a Bushel for Wheat. — Cut Prairie Grass for Hay. — French Barns. — Produce to New Orleans. — Lead.— Stock. — Indian Goods. — All Commerce by Water. — No Land Carriage, no Roads. — Rail roads add much to Commerce, - 56 CHAPTER XIX. Early Education in Illinois. — The Author's first Acquaintance with the Arithmetic. — At a Common-School in the Winter. — Studies Astronomy. — Studies Surveying and Navigation. — Traits of Character Developed, ^- 58 CHAPTER XX. The Increase of Population and the Extension of the Settlements in Illinois from 1805 to 1809, the Time of the Formation of Illinois Territory. — ^Great Mound. — The Monks of La Trappe. — Shawneetown Increased, 61 CHAPTER XXI. The Early Life of the Author. — His Education. — Camp-meeting. The Jerks. — Militia Discipline. — The Fourth of July, 64 CHAPTER XXII. Early Government of Ilhnois. — In 1800, down to 1809, Ilhnois forined a part of Indiana Territory. ^Establishment of St. Clair and Randolph Counties. — Judges of the Court. — Jurisdiction of Courts and Justices of the Peace. — First Lawyers. — Election in 1802. — Assembly Convened at VinceUnes to Suggest Measures. — Contrast in the Travel to Viticennes in 1802 on Horseback, and in 1855 by Railroad; 66 viii CONTENTS. PAGE. CHAPTER XXIII. My Journey to the College in Tennessee. — A Letter from Ten nessee decides me for the College. — Preparations. — Diffidence,. 67 CHAPTER XXIV. My First Year at College.— The Preceptor.— The Books I Read,. 7° CHAPTER XXV. The Second Year at College.— The Scenes at College.— General Houston, of Texas, at the Same Institution. — Commenced Reading Law. — Studied Intensely. — Became Sick. — Quit Study. — Returned to Illinois, - 74 CHAPTER XXVI. The Summer of 18 11. — Miscellaneous. — My Return to Illinois. — My Health. — Indian Disturbance. — Indications of War. — Forts Built. — Captam Levering at Peoria to Sound the Indians. — The Comet. — The Earthquake. — Sports and Horse -Racing, 76 CHAPTER XXVII. My Return to College and to the Law-School in Knoxville, Tenn. — Hugh L. White and Jenkin Whiteside. — General Gaines and Recruits in Knoxville. — Last Foot-Race of the Author, 80 CHAPTER XXVIII. The War of 181 2 with Great Britain and her Indian Allies in Illi nois. — Hostile Spirit of the Indians. — Rangers around the Fron tiers. — Forts. — Troops Organized. — Camp Russell. — Extended Frontier. — Dixon and his Warriors. — Gomo, a Chief, met Gov. Edwards in Council. — Tecumseh at Vincennes. — Murders Com mitted. — Hill's Fort Attacked. — Belleview Defended. — Fort La Motte Erected above Vincennes. — Rangers Established. — Col. Russell. — Massacre at Chicago. — Taylor's Battle at Fort Harri son. — A Pottawatomie Warrior KiUed a White Man on a Boat,. 81 CHAPTER XXIX. Edward's Campaign against the Indians to the Eastern Extremity of Lake Peoria. — Organization of the Army. — March to the Peoria Lake. — Met two Indians. — One Indian and a White Man Killed. — Routed the Indians out of the Town. — Killed sev eral in the Swamps. — The Army Returns the same Evening. — Captain Craig Destroyed Peoria and Carries off the Inhabitants. — General Hopkins Fails to Reach Illinois River. — Edwards and Army Return to Camp Russell, 86 CONTENTS. IX PAGE. CHAPTER XXX. The War in Illinois in 1812. — Ranging Comp>anies Organized. — The Author Became a Ranger. — Soldier Amusements. — Mur ders by the Indians. — Gen. Howard's Campaign. — Army Organ ized. — Marched Up the Mississippi River. — A Soldier Killed at Peoria. — Built Fort Clark. — Skirmishes on Lake Peoria. — Tricks of Murdick, 91 CHAPTER XXXI. The War with Great Britain Continued, and Concluded in 1814. — ^The Author Appointed Judge Advocate. — The Militia Or ganized for Service. — Many Murders Committed by the Indians. — Capt. Short's Battle with the Indians. — Gov. Clarke's Expe dition to Prairie du Chien. — ^The Garrison Captured there. — ¦ Campbell's Expedition to Rock Island. — The Battle at Rock Island. — Another Expedition to Rock Island under Major Tay lor. — A Battle, and the Troops Forced Back Down the River. — Build Fort Edwards, 97 CHAPTER XXXII. The Government of Illinois. — Judges Revised the Statute Laws. — Duties of Governor Edwards. — Amusements at Courts. — - Scott's Trick on McMahon at Cahokia. — lUinois Territory Es tablished. — 'Counties Created. — Second Grade of Government Adopted. — First Legislature. — The General Assembly Sat An nually at Kaskaskia. — Delegates to Congress, 103 CHAPTER XXXIII. Miscellaneous. — Expedition of Lewis and Clark to the Pacific Ocean. — The Cold Friday in 1805. — A Tornado in 1805. — The Author Studied the French Language. — Names of Places. — How they Originated, * 106 CHAPTER XXXIV. Sketch of the Author's Life. — Acting for Himself — First Practice of the Law. — Traffic in Land. — Merchandise. — Conveyance of Money from Vincennes to St. Louis. — Small Law-Library, 109 CHAPTER XXXV. Extension of the Settlements. — Improvements. — Agriculture. — Commerce. — Commerce to New Mexico, - in* CHAPTER XXXVI. Regulators in Illinois. — Regulating Company Organized in St. Clair Co. — Mob-Law in 1831, on the Ohio River. — In Edgar County X CONTENTS. PAGE. Lynch-Law was Estabhshed.— In Ogle County a Horrid Tragedy was Enacted in 1841.— A Case in Madison County.— Cases in Pope and Massacre Counties in 1846.— Public Opinion should Condemn Mob-Law, - ^^^ CHAPTER XXXVII. Early Religion in Illinois.— The Roman Catholic Denomination.— The Jesuit Missionaries Founded Kaskaskia and Cahokia. — The Rev. Mr. Oliver, of Prairie du Rocher.— The Creed of the Roman Catholic Church.— Christian Creeds are Substan tially the Same. — Roman Catholic Statistics, 116 CHAPTER XXXVIII. Early Methodist Denomination in Illinois.— The Reverend Joseph Lillard, First Methodist Preacher in Ilhnois in 1793. — The Early Clergymen.— Hosea Riggs, Benjamin Young, Chas. R. Matheny, Thomas Harrison, Jesse Walker, Peter Cartwright— The Meth odist Statistics, - - - — 7-- ^^^ CHAPTER XXXIX. The Early Baptist Denomination in Illinois. — Ministers of the Gos pel in the Baptist Churches. — James Smith, John K. Simpson and Son, Josiah Dodge, James Lemen, Sr. and Sons, Joseph Chance and Son, John Clark, WiUiam Jones, Dr. John M. Peck, Deacon Smith, George Wolf — Baptist Churches. — Baptist Sta tistics. — William Kinney. — Linley in Sangamon County, 123 CHAPTER XL. The Early Presbyterian Churches in Ilhnois. — The Rev. Samuel Wylie. — His Church Refused to Vote. — Presbyterian Church in Bond County. — One at Galena. — The Rev. Mr. Kent. — Cum berland Presbyterians in WJiite County. — Presbyterian Statistics, 127 CHAPTER XLI. Professional Men in Illinois Territory. — Lawyers and Physicians, . 128 CHAPTER XLIL The Domestic Relations of the Author, 131 CHAPTER XLIII. Slavery Existed in Illinois before 1787.— The Ordinance of that ^ year Prevented it.— Indentured Servants.— The State Constitu tion Prohibits Slavery in the State, - 132 CHAPTER XLIV. Organization of the State Government in 181 8, and Election of the Officers, j,. CONTENTS. xi PAGE. CHAPTER XLV. The First Session of the General Assembly Revised the Statute Laws, and Adapted them to the State Government. — The Canal. — Organization of the Judicial Circuits, 136 CHAPTER XLVI. The Judiciary of the State. — Opening Court. — Members of the Bar, 137 CHAPTER XLVII. Trials of Murder in the Courts wherein I Presided. — Short and Fike. — William Bennett. — Ehphalet Green. — An Indian in Pike County. — Bottsford, at Vandalia, 138 CHAPTER XLVIII. Early Banks of lUinois. — Dearth of Money. — Relief. — A State Bank. — Stay-laws. — Loan to Wind up the State Bank, - 142 CHAPTER XLIX. The Pubhc Debt to the General Government for the Lands Pur chased. — Relief. — Large Debt. — Land System changed. — Credit for Public Land abolished. — Col. Johnson, of Kentucky, first to give Relief. — His Character. — General Relief graflted, and the relation of Debtor and Creditor destroyed, 144 CHAPTER L. 'Slavery Agitation in Illinois. — Election of Hon. D. P. Cook to Congress, 146 CHAPTER LI. Ajtificial Mounds in Ilhnois, and all over the West. — Big Mound in the American Bottom, and Others. — ^The Grand Tower. — Marrais d'Ogee, - 147 CHAPTER LII. The Further Extension of the Settlements. — Peoria County Cre ated. — The Diamond Grove. — The Indian Name of Sangamon. — More Counties Formed. — Tobacco and Castor -Beans in the South of Illinois. — Train Oil at Peoria, 149 CHAPTER LIII. ¦Convention to Introduce Slavery into lUinois. — Revolutionary Pro ceedings in the Legislature. — Excited Discussion. — Parties Ar rayed.— Public Journals Issued Flaming Documents. — About Eighteen Hundred Votes Majority Against the Call of a Conven tion, 152 xii CONTENTS. PAGE, CHAPTER LIV. The Land -Law andTenuresofLandsinlUinois, i55 CHAPTER LV Fun and Frolic in Primitive Illinois, -. i57 CHAPTER LVI. The Early Elections in Illinois for Governor and other Offi cers. — Re-organization of the Judiciary, - 158 CHAPTER LVII. Presidential Election in 1824, i6a CHAPTER LVIII. Parties Commenced in Ilhnois. — Election of Joseph Duncan to Congress, - - 162 CHAPTER LIX. The Arrival of General LaFayette in the United States in 1824. — His Visit to Illinois in 1825, 164. CHAPTER LX. The Author Practises Law. — Is Elected for the First Time to the General Assembly in 1826, 165, CHAPTER LXL The Election of Governor and Lieutenant-Governor of Illinois in 1826, -. 166 CHAPTER LXII. Galena. — The Lead Mines in Illinois. — James Johnson Leased the Mines. — Morality of Galena. — Duel with Rocks. — Nick names. — "Joe Davis" County. — Fever River,. 16S CHAPTER LXIIL The Author a Member of the General Assembly of the State in 1826 and 1827. — General Assembly. — Their Names. — The Penitentiary, jyj CHAPTER LXIV. Re-organization of the Judiciary. — Revision of the Statute-Laws. — Defining the Instruction of the Court to the Jury. — The Selec tion of Juries. — The Viva Voce Election in the Legislature. Resolution Recommending Andrew Jackson for President 174^ CHAPTER LXV. The Winnebago War.— Cause of the War.— The Whites Alarmed. CONTENTS. xin PAGE. — General Dodge and Samuel Whitesides Command Com panies. — General Atkinson takes Red Bird, the Winnebago Chief. — Colonel Neal Commands a Regiment, 177 CHAPTER LXVI. The Author Practises Law. — Party Spirit. — ^Jos. Duncan Elected to Congress, and the Author to the State Legislature. — The Names of the Members of the General Assembly. — Joint Com mittee to Revise the Statutes. — School Lands Sold. — Common Schools. — Canal Commissioners, 179 CHAPTER LXVII. The European Immigration in lUinois, 182 CHAPTER LXVIII. The Canvass for Governor of the State between Governor Kinney and the Author, - 184 CHAPTER LXIX. The Author's Administration of the Government of the State. — Friendship to Opponents. — The First Message. — Education. — Internal Improvements.— -The Canal. — The Harbor at Chicago. — Improvement of the Rivers by Congress. — Penitentiary. — Public Lands. — The Judiciary, 192 CHAPTER LXX. Continuation of the State Administration by the Author. — Mixture of Party. — Election of Treasurer. — Prosecuting Attorneys. — Signs of the Black-Hawk War. — Counties Formed. — Northern Boundary of the State. — The Canal, 200 CHAPTER LXXI. The Black- Hawk War. — Sketch of the Life of the Indian War rior, Black Hawk. — He Attacks Fort Madison in 181 1. — Joins the British, in Canada, Against the Americans, in 1812, in the late War with Britain. — He is in many Battles against the Ameri cans, on the Mississippi, in the same War, 203 CHAPTER LXXII. The Black-Hawk War Continued.— The Cause of the War.— The Hostility of the British Band of Sac and Fox Indians to the Whites. — Petitions and Affidavits Proving the Facts. — Com peUed to CaU Out Troops to Defend the Citizens. — Regret the Necessity, 206 xiv CONTENTS. PAGE. CHAPTER LXXIII. War.— CaU on the Mihtia-on the 26th of May.— They meet at Beardstown on the joth of June. — Letters to General Gaines and Governor Clark.— Their Answers.— The Speedy Appearance of a Large Army Deters the Surrounding Indians, 209 CHAPTER LXXIV The Organization of the Volunteers North of Beardstown.— Pro cured Arms and Provisions. — Respectable ai^d Distinguished Citizens Joined the Army, - 212- CHAPTER LXXV. March to Rock Island.— Black Hawk and Tribe Abandon their Village. — The Volunteers Occupy the Sac ViUage. — Treaty with Black Hawk and Warriors, - 214 CHAPTER LXXVI. Volunteers Camped on the Site of the Present To^n of Stephen son. — Stampede with the Horses. — Treaty with Black Hawk and Warriors, - — 216 CHAPTER LXXVII. The Close of the First Campaign in the Black-Hawk War. — The Army Disbanded. — -Corn and Provisions Given to the Indians. — Scenery of Rock Island. — The Indian Villages. — Indian Tradition. — A White Spirit, 220 CHAPTER LXXVIII. The Black- Hawk War in 1832. — The British Band of Indians In vade the State. — Another Call on the Volunteers. — A Requisi tion by Gen. Atkinson, of the United States Army, 222 CHAPTER LXXIX. A Call on the Volunteers, 223 CHAPTER LXXX. The Army Marched to the Mississippi. — Swim Henderson River on the Route. — Army out of Provisions. — Boat Arrives with Supplies. — March to Rock Island, 226 CHAPTER LXXXI. Volunteers Received into the United States Service. — March up Rock River. — General Atkinson in Command. — Arrive at Dix on. — Orders to Major Stillman, 228 CHAPTER LXXXII. StiUman's March. — Battle and Retreat. — Eleven White Men and Eight Indians Killed, 231 CONTENTS. XV PAGE. CHAPTER LXXXIII. A Call for Two Thousand Volunteers. — The Army March to the Battle Ground and Bury the Dead.^ — -The Volunteers Return to Dixon, 23s CHAPTER LXXXIV. The whole Army March in Pursuit of the Indians. — Return Home by Ottawa, 236 CHAPTER LXXXV. The Army Returned Home. — Discharged . at Ottawa. — A Regi ment Volunteered to Guard the Frontier. — Capt. Snyder's Bat tle with the Indians, 238 CHAPTER LXXXVI. Indian Depredations. — Attack of Apple-Creek Fort. — BriUiant Vic tory of Gen. Dodge. — Cap1#Stephenson's Battle, 243 CHAPTER LXXXVI I. Arrival of the Troops on the Frontiers. — Organization of the New Army. — Major Dement's Battle, - 244 CHAPTER LXXXVIII. Army March to Dixon. — Posey's Brigade Ordered to Fort Hamil ton. — Alexander's toward the Mississippi. — Atkinson, Regulars and Volunteers, March up Rock River. — Find no Indians. — Army Disperse for Provisions, 250 CHAPTER LXXXIX. Sketch of the Life and Character of James D. Henry. — The Horse Stampede, -- 253 CHAPTER XC. Gen. Henry, in Violation of Orders, Decides to March in Pur suit of the Indians. — Puts Down a Disturbance Among the Volunteers — Found the Trail of Black Hawk. — Left the Heavy Baggage, - 255 CHAPTER XCL Gen. Henry and Major Dodge, with their Respective Troops, in Hot Chase of Black Hawk and Band. — Thunder Storm. — The Four Lakes. — Battle of the Wisconsin, -- 258 CHAPTER XCII. The Army Gross the Wisconsin River at Helena. — Order of March. — Bad Roads. — In a Few Days they Reach the Missis- xvi CONTENTS. PAGE. sippi. — Battle of the Bad Axe.— Steamboat Black Warrior Fires on the Indians. — The War Closed, 263 CHAPTER XCIII. Troops Guarding the Frontiers Discharged. — Peace Restored. — Treaties Concluded. — Session of Land Whereon the State of Iowa and a part of Wisconsin is Formed, 266 CHAPTER XCIV. Congressional Elections. — Distinguished Members of the Legisla ture. — The Second Message of the Author. — Nullification. — President Jackson's Proclamation. — Fugitive Slave-Law. — Non- Execution. — Impeachment of Judge Smith, .- 268 Chapter xcv. The Early Institutions of Learning in IlAois. — ^Rock-Spring Semi nary. — McKendre College, at Lebanon. — Ilhnois College. — Seminaries at HUlsborough, Springfield, and Paris. — Mr. Wy- man's High School in St. Louis, 273 CHAPTER XCVI. Early Literature in Illinois. — Morris Birkbeck, Esq. — Dr. Lewis C. Beck. — Dr. John M. Peck. — Hon. James Hall. — Hon. Sidney Breese. — Prof John Russell. — The Venomous Worm. — Mr. M. Tarver. — The Western Journal and CivUian. -—Anti quarian Historical Society at Vandalia, 276 CHAPTER XCVII. Improvements of the Country. — The Author Offers for Congress. — Is Elected. — Mr. Snyder and Mr. Humphries his Opponents. — Gov. Kinney and Gen. Duncan Offers for Governor. — Dun can is Elected. — The Hon. Mr. Slade, the Member in Congress, Dies, and the Author is Elected in his Place, 282 CHAPTER XCVIII. The Author a Member of Congress. — It is Difficult to Effect much in that Body. — Character of David Crockett. — City of Balti more. — City of Washington. — President Jackson and the Au gustan Age of Congress, 285 CHAPTER XCIX. Party-Spirit in Congress. — The Globe wiA Intelligencer Newspapers. — Eminent Men in Congress. — Party-Spirit, when it is Sec tional, is Dangerous and Wrong, 288 CONTENTS. xvii PAGE. CHAPTER C. Sketch of the Life and Character of General Jackson. — Anecdote of Him with the Child and Lamb. — Sketch of Henry Clay. — The Principles of the Whig and Democratic Parties, 290 CHAPTER CI. Measures in Congress in 1834-5. — The Bank of the United States. — The French Spoliations. — The viva-voce Resolution of the Author. — Northern Boundary of lUinois. — Hon. T. Burges, ... 295 CHAPTER CIL Executive Influence. — Proscription for Opinion's Sake. — Exe cutive Power of Removals from Office. — The Convention Sys tem. — The Life of President Jackson Assailed, 303 CHAPTER cm. The Eulogy of Mr. Adams on Gen. La Fayette. — Sketch of Ex- President John Q. Adams, 307 CHAPTER CIV. The Military Academy at West Point, 310 CHAPTER CV. Further Proceedings in Congress. — The Admission of the Terri tories of Michigan and Arkansas into the Union as States. — A Torpedo in the Potomac River. — A Visit to Washington's Tomb. — The Key of the Bastile of France.— A Tide- Water Joke on the Author. — The Author in Congress Seven Years and Eight Sessions. — The General Duties the Author Performed in Congress, 312 CHAPTER CVI. The Author Marries in the District of Columbia. — Out of Con gress Two Years. — The Lovejoy Riot at Alton, 317 CHAPTER CVII. The First Railroad Constructed West of the Mountains by the Author and Others. — Other Railroads in lUinois, 321 CHAPTER CVIII. The Internal Improvements of the State in 1836. — Railroads. — The Canal, - - 323 CHAPTER CIX. The Improvements and Growth of the Country. — In 1840, the Whole State was under Organized Government, and the Wilder- xviii CONTENTS. PAGE. ness Disappeared. — Indians Removed. — Indian Traits of Char acter — George E. Walker's Command of the Indians, ....i.i. 326 CHAPTER ex. The Election. — Governor Carlin. — He appointed the Author a Commissioner to make a Loan of Money for the Canal. — Ob tains a Loan of a MiUion Dollars in Philadelphia. — Embarks for Europe. — Lands at Liverpool, England, 330 CHAPTER CXI. The First Sight of Europe to a Backwoodsman. — The Enghsh and French. — Liverpool. — St. James' Cemetery. — The Tunnel. — Railroad. — The Blue-Coat Boys. — The BlundeUs. — Buildings in Europe not Gay. — Statue of Lord Nelson. — Hotels in Eng land not Gaudy, 334 CHAPTER CXIL London. — Its Leading Features. — Its Size. — Its Wealth. — Its Antiquity. — In 1065, WUham the Conqueror gave it a Char ter.— Old and New City. —St. Paul's Church. — Westminster Abbey. — Six Thousand Children in St. Paul's Church. — Bridges. — The Tunnel under the Thames. — Free Schools in London. — The Carriages in England, ..^ 337 CHAPTER CXIIL Visit to Oxford. — Colleges. — Libraries. — Ancient Buildings. — Glass Broken by CromweU. — Return to London. — The Tower of London. — The Parliament. — Lord Brougham. — Short Speeches. — The Courts. — Mayor's Court. — Government of London, 340 CHAPTER CXIV. Visit to France. — Dover. — Lands at Boulogne. — Monument. — French Diligence, a Carriage. — Journey to Paris, 3.J 4 CHAPTER CXV. City of Paris.— Public Buildings are Splendid and Brilliant.— Soldiers for the City Police! — Churches. — Palais Royal. — Louvre. — The Paintings. — Monument for Bonaparte. — Obe- hsk. — Pariiament.— Garden of Plants.— Ely sian Fields, 347 CHAPTER CXVI. Exhibition of the Arts.— Horses, Carts, and Plows in t'rance.— River Seme and the Bribes. — The Boulevard.— Mont de CONTENTS. xix PAGE. Mouhn.— Palace of St. Cloud.— French and English Ideas of Free Government. — Napoleon Much Respected. — Catacombs. — ^Weak Wine. — Dancing on the Sabbath 351 CHAPTER CXVII. Left Paris. — Brussels. — Antwerp. — Cathedral at Antwerp. — Voy age to London. — Windsor Castle. — The Curses of Monarchy. — Partial Loan of Money from the Banker, John Wright. — Travel from London to Bath and Bristol. — Voyage in the "Great West- em" home to the United States. — A Storm on the Ocean, 355 CHAPTER CXVIII. The Mormons. — Sketch of Joseph Smith, the Founder. — Pre tended Vision. — The Angel. — Plates of Metal. — Translation. — Book of Mormon. — First Church Estabhshed. — Similarity of Smith to Mahomet and Cromwell, 359 CHAPTER CXIX. Mormons CaUed Themselves the "Latter-Day Saints." — Ardent and Devout. — Mormon Emigration to the Far West and Kirt- land. — Civil War in Missouri. — Horrid Murder of a Mormon Boy. — The Mormons Expelled from Missouri, 363 CHAPTER CXX. Mormons Assembled in Nauvoo in Great Numbers. — Cause of Dis satisfaction. — Excited Parties. — Mormons Could Turn the Scale. — Joseph Smith Introduced to the President. — His Person. — No Relief from Congress. — Charters from the Illinois Legisla ture, 366 CHAPTER CXXI. The Mormon Corporation Abuse the Power Given Them. — Schism in the Church. — Press Destroyed. — Joseph and Hiram Smith Murdered in Jail. — Mormons Leave the State. — The Temple,.. 368 CHAPTER CXXII. The Icarian Community. — Sketch of the Life M. Cabet, the Founder, 371 CHAPTER CXXIII. The System and Philosophy of the Icarian Community, 374 XX CONTENTS. PAGE. CHAPTER CXXIV. Freshets in the Mississippi River. — Calm in Politics.-^Isms. — Mexican War. — The Author Elected Twice to the General As sembly. — Elected Speaker of the House. — The <}eneral Occu pation of the Author, 377 CHAPTER CXXV. Improvements of the State, 381 MY OWN TIMES. CHAPTER I. Early Education forms to a great extent the Character. — The place of the nativity of the Author. Whoever attempts to write the history of his own times, of scenes in which he himself was an actor, should relate the story ¦of his childhood. Such a relation is the key to his history. The circumstances that surrounded him in early years, leave their indelible impress upon his future character. In after life, other forms of society, and other scenes, may give a new direction to his actions, effecting a radical change in his manners, and appa rently in his whole being. But, to the intelligent observer of human character, the impressions stamped upon his mind and heart in childhood, may be traced by their influence upon him, to the latest period of his existence. Who that is acquainted with the early history of Andrew Jackson will fail to discover the germ of his future character in the impressions given to his mind and heart, while he was yet a child, in the rude pine cottage of his widowed mother, on the borders of the Carolinas ? She told him, with deep feeling, of the wrongs of her native Ireland, and taught him resistance to oppression, even to the knife. But far better still, she tai%ht him, almost from infancy, to bow his knee in prayer, and to rev erence that Unseen Power, whose goodness and love are never trusted in vain. No American need be told how Andrew Jack son fought for his country, or with what childlike confidence in old age he yielded up his spirit to Him who gave it. The influence of outward circumstances in moulding the char acter of an entire community, is seen in the early history of New England, and that of the pioneer settlements of the West. The Pilgrims and their immediate descendants occupied a region swarming with hostile savages, and became as skilful hunters and as daring Indian fighters as ever tracked the savage through the forests of Kentucky and Tennessee. The same undiscrimi- nating thirst for vengeance upon the whole Indian race burned in the bosom of the Puritans, which at a later period was so con spicuously exhibited by the backwoodsmen of the West. The slaughter of the " praying Indians " at the Moravian mission of 2 MY OWN TIMES. Gnadenhueten, on the Muskingum, finds its parallel in the butch ery of the venerable Catholic priest, Sebastian Rasle, and his Indian converts, at their village on the banks of the Kennebec, in Maine. Even the murder of the women and children or Logan, the story of which is told with eloquence by Jefferson, has its counterpart in the melancholy fate of the captured wife and children of the brave chieftain, Philip of Mount Hope. I congratulate myself, that my humble lot, from the dawn of life to the years of manhood, was cast upon the frontiers of the West, .where toil and danger and privation was my inheritance. I was born in Montgomery county, Pennsylvania, on the 26th of" February, 1788. My father, Robert Reynolds, and my mother, whose maiden name was Margaret Moore, were natives of Ire land, from which country they emigrated to the United States,^ landing at Philadelphia, in the year 1785. Several of the near connections of our family, including my paternal grandfather, and his household, emigrated at the same time, most of whom settled in Tennessee. My father was an intelligent, strong-minded man, who felt. deeply and acted with decision. One of the most prominent; traits of his character was hostility, bitter and undying, to the British government. It was this feeling that impelled him, as it has many thousand other natives of that ill-fated, oppressed country, to turn his back upon Ireland, and seek a home for himself and his children in "The land of the free and the home of the brave." The descendants of the Milesian race, the primitive inhabi tants of Ireland, however hiimble may be their condition, scorn to mingle their blood with that of their Saxon oppressors. I ha^ often heard my father boast, with conscious pride and kindling eye, that he and his ancestors belonged to that race,, and th^t not a drop of English blood flowed in his veins. It is not imf)ossible, however, that he may have been mistaken, and that our family is, in fact, of English origin, for, I have met with many of the same name in England. But I regard the whole- subject of ancestry and descent, as utterly frivolous, and un worthy of a moment's serious attention; believing with Pope, that Honor and shame from no condition rise : Act weU your part, there all the honor lies. I have alluded to the invincible hatred of my father toward the British government, principally because the same feelings are shared by a vast majority of the Irish people, at this very hour. It was that spirit which impelled the Irish volunteers to- seek the front ranks in every forlorn hope of our revolution. MY OWN TIMES. CHAPTER II. The Emigration of the Author's Father to Tennessee. — Indian Wars. — The murder of George Mann, in 1794, by the Indians. When I was about six months old, my parents removed to Tennessee, and settled at the base of the Copper Ridge Moun tain, about fourteen miles north-east of the present city of Knox ville. My earliest recollections are connected with this spot, at a period when I was probably not more than five or six years old. The nightly alarm of hostile Indians, and the mountains, ' with their majestic summits often veiled in clouds, made an im pression upon my mind which the lapse of years and the varied scenes through which I have since passed, have failed to oblit erate. I well remember seeing my parents, whenever a night attack of the Indians was expected, bar the door of our cabin. After one of these alarms, my father, with gun in hand, looked cautiously out in every direction, to see that no Indian was lurk ing near the house, before he would venture to open the door. The wakeful vigilance and resolute spirit of my father left the savages but slender hopes of success in that quarter, and our house was never assaulted, though the tracks of the Indian moc casin were often seen upon the premises. My grandfather, who resided in the vicinity, had built a fort to which our family and others repaired in times of more than ordinary danger, and there, in frontier parlance, "forted" till the danger was over. In this manner the settlements of Tennessee were harassed for more than a quarter of a century. For many years previous to Wayne's treaty with the Indians in 1795, the Cherokees were deadly hostile to the frontier settlers, and killed not a fe^ of the pioneers of that State. In 1794, my father rented his place on the frontier, to George Mann, a recent emigrant, and retired with his family into the interior. On the evening of the 25th of May, of the same year, Mr. Mann went out after supper to attend to his horses in the stable, and the Indians, who had probably watched all his mo tions from their lurking place, shot him. He ran about three- quarters of a mile to a cave for shelter, but his pursuers were fast on his trail and gave him no time for concealing himself He was found and killed, and his lifeless body mangled and mutilated in the most shocking manner. But their thirst for blood was not yet sated. They hastened back to the house,' in the expectation that the unprotected wife and children of their late victim would become an easy prey. They attempted to gain an entrance into the cabin by forcing open the door, but this 4 MY OWN TIMES. Mrs. Mann had securely barred. Fortunately, or, rather ought I not to say Providentially, but a few days before she had re quested her husband to instruct her how to set the double trig gers of his rifle. This he did, carefully showing and explaining to her the whole process. One of the Indians, by great exertion and the assistance of the others, had partly succeeded in forcing his body between the door and the rude casing, usually termed in a cabin the "cheek" and would soon have gained an entrance into the house, when the fate of the whole family would instantly have been decided. At this critical moment, Mrs. Mann set the triggers of her husband's rifle and, taking deliberate aim, fired. The ball passed through the body of the nearest Indian and wounded the one immedi ately behind him. This was a reception which they had by no means expected from a woman, and they hastily retired from the cabin, carrying off their dead and wounded companions. Then going to the stable, they took out the horses, set it on fire, and beat a hasty retreat, taking the horses along with them. The flames of the burning building rose high, swaying to and fro in the night air, rendering every surrounding object, the forest, and the outlines of the Copper Ridge, distinctly visible. It was a scene that might well have tried the fortitude of that lone woman, with her infant children, ignorant as she was of the fate of her husband. But when has the devoted wife and mother ever failed to meet, with invincible fortitude, danger, and death itself for those she loved } Mrs. Mann was apprehensive that the house would take fire from the flames and sparks of the stable, but Providentially it did not She waited till the building was burned down to the ground, and all danger from that source over, then taking her little children, she fled in the darkness of the night through the forest, a mile and a half, to the residence of my grandfather, calling all the way, at the top of her voice, the name of her hus band, still clinging to the hope that he escaped with life, and that the sound would guide him to his wife and children. It need not be told that Mrs. Mann and her fatherless children found protection and sympathy at the house of my grandfather, for the dwellers on the frontiers are proverbial for their kindness to the afflicted, and to all who need their aid. Thus by a mys terious interposition of Divine Providence, our family was spared from the tragic fate which befell that of George Mann. MY OWN TIMES. CHAPTER III. The early pursuits and impressions of the Author. — His visit to the ancient domicile of his parents in Tennessee. — His intense feelings on the scenes of his infancy. — His first School Teachers. I REGARD it as a happy circumstance for which I ought ever to feel thankful, that my parents were in moderate circumstances, rendering it necessary for me to share in the labors of the farm from early boyhood, up to the years of manhood. I remember of plowing, when but a small lad, and yet retain a vivid recollec tion of the knocks, and no very gentle ones, which the plow- handles gave me among the stumps, stones, and roots of an East-Tennessee clearing. To say nothing of the influence which early habits of industry may have exerted over my moral character, toiling in the open air, becoming inured to the vicisitudes of the seasons, sunshine and frost, rain and snow, gave me a vigorous constitution and sound health, which made me to undergo in my Indian cam paigns, hardships and privations that would have driven any one, not early inured to labor, from the field. In 1853, I paid a visit to the State of Tennessee, and made a pilgrimage to the home of my infancy and childhood, the place where once stood the humble frontier cabin of my father. I now revisited that spot for the first time since we bade it adieu in 1800, and removed to Illinois. I had left it a mere boy; a careless, happy child. I returned to it in the wane of life. More than half a century stood between those two points (;?£ time. During all that long period of my humble, yet eventful history, the home of my early years lived fresh and green in my memory, just as I had seen it in childhood. I had expected to find the whole appearance of the country changed, and was not surprised that highly -cultivated farms, with their elegant mansions, occupied a region which I had seen covered with almost unbroken forest But the most striking feature of the landscape remained unchanged. The mountains were the same. Their lofty summits rose to the heavens with the same sublime grandeur that excited my awe and admiration when a child. I knew the place where our cabin had stood, though every vestige of its walls and roofs had disappeared for more than a generation. Nothing now remained to mark the spot, except a slight elevation of the ground where the chimney had been, and a few flat stones that had once been our hearth. I visited this hallowed spot alone. I stood upon the hearth stone of my childhood. The memories of early days thronged around my heart. It almost seemed as if I was once more a 6 MY OWN TIMES. child, listening to the stories my mother told me in the long winter evenings around that very hearth. How well did I re member telling her all my childish griefs, and with what gentle ness she chided my waywardness, banishing all my sorrows with her affectionate soothing words. I almost fancied that I could again feel her gentle hand, parting the luxuriant hair that shaded my youthful brow, and her warm kiss upon my forehead and lips. I care net who may sneer at the confession, I wept like a child as I stood alone upon that hearth-stone, and thought of you, my fond, my affectionate, my sainted mother. I have already told the reader that I was trained to labor from the time that I was capable of rendering the slightest as sistance to my father on the farm. But my education was not neglected, that my parents might receive the earnings of my labor. They were always ready to make any sacrifice in their power to educate their children. At that early period, schools in Tennessee were few and far between, and these few not al ways of a very valuable class. They were generally taught by itinerant pedagogues, mostly Irishmen, often of intemperate habits, and with very few qualifications for an employment so responsible as that of an instructor of youth. I was sent to school at a tender age. My first teacher was a cross, ill-natured Irishman, as unsuitable a character as can well be imagined to have the charge of a young and diffident child. I was often severely chastised, though I had not intentionally committed any fault. The scholars soon learned to detest him, and learned little else. The unjust severity with which I was treated made the very name of school odious to me. I mention this circumstance, which may appear to many as a trivial one, simply to caution my readers to beware of commit ting the instruction of their young children into the hands of a teacher of bad morals and disposition, or ill -governed temper. Kindness of heart is quite as important a qualification in a teacher as an acquaintance with the cube root My next teacher was a just and kind-hearted man, who was much esteemed by his pupils. Under his tuition, I became fond of going to school, and improved rapidly. It was a favorite maxim of my father that, the physical powers of the student ought to be exercised, as well as the mental faculties. In con formity with that theory, I was compelled to devote half of my time to severe labor, and the other half to study. I believe that system an eminently judicious one. If it was more generally adopted, fewer young men would leave our colleges and our institutions of learning with an impaired constitution that renders their education of little value. I attended these schools in I794-S- I have already remarked that the character of a community is generally moulded in conformity with the circumstances that MY OWN TIMES. 7 surround it. The mode of life, the habits and customs that existed in Tennessee in the "olden times," were such as natu- xally and almost unavoidably arose out of the condition of Lsettlers of a sparsely-inhabited frontier with little intercourse Avith the world beyond their mountains, and menaced day and night by a savage foe. Those habits and modes of life have long since passed away, with the circumstances that gave them -birth, and exist only in the traditions of other times. The condition of our border- settlers, even on the remotest confines of the distant West, is far different from that of the pio neers of Tennessee. Hardly is there now a corner of our wide domain, however remote, that has not felt the onward impulse •of this "stirring age." The steamboat awakens the long slum bering echoes of the forest, and enterprising merchants send the necessaries of hfe, and most of its superfluities, to our remotest settlements. CHAPTER IV. 'The early Habits, Dress, and Amusements in Tennessee. — Barring out the School Teacher. I SHALL be pardoned, I trust, if I attempt to sketch, with a ¦few brief outlines, customs and manners that no longer exist, and all remembrance of which, in a few years more, will have passed away. The backwoodsmen of Tennessee had almost no trade, except the small barter among themselves. All the articles of mer chandise ,that came to that region were transported in wagons from Baltimore and Philadelphia, over bad roads, and across the mountains. I remember well the interest which the arrival of -one of these "store wagons" was sure to excite. The settlers from far and near gathered around it, eagerlyienquiring if the trader had brought out this and that article, and what was the price. The clothing of both sexes was mostly spun, wove, and made up by the family. The men and boys were dressed in hunting shirts, and other garments of linsey, or as frequently was the case, in those of deer-skin. These hunting shifts, especially those for the young, were generally ornamented with a rustic fringe. A neat, modest girl will always continue to look well, even in the coarsest dress. Her own intuitive taste is a far better guide than the "fashion plates" of a Ladies' Magazine. Many a courtly dame have I seen in London and Paris, flaunting in silks and laces and glittering with diamonds, who, to my hum ble taste, appeared far less attractively dressed than not a few of •our backwoods girls in the simple homespun attire. 8 MY OWN TIMES. Amusements on the frontier were not wanting, either ia variety or interest. "Barring out the Master" was almost uni versally attempted by the scholars of the frontier schools, on the eve of a holiday, and more particularly that of Christmas. At the latter season, the school was attended by many young men, and half-grown boys, who managed the whole affair. I he first symptom of the "Barring Out" was the respectful petition of the large scholars to the teacher, that he would give the school a vacation of a week or two. This he alm9st invariably refused, for if granted, he would be compelled to make up every day of the vacation, at the close of this term, which would often interfere with his other engagements. As soon as the refusal of the school-master to grant their request was made known to the school, the leaders in the "Barring Out," with great secrecy planned their mode of operation, and with a feeling that they were conducting an important affair, upon the success of which. their own honor and that of the school depended. No sooner had the school been dismissed for the day, on the evening appointed for the commencement of the rebellion, and the teacher fairly out of sight, than the campaign began. Their victory depended upon preventing the teacher from entering the school-house again, till he had yielded to their de mands. A frontier school-house, in those days, was usually a log building of a rather primitive order of architecture. It had but one door and one window, the only openings through which the enemy, by any possibility, could gain an entrance. Their fortress, therefore, did not require quite as large a force to man it as either Fort Diamond or the Rock of Gibraltar. Pro visions in abundance were laid in, enough to last the youthful garrison during a siege of several days, and brought into the fortress. Among other supplies was a very liberal allowance of corn whiskey, which in those times was used as a common bev erage by all classes. A store of pine knots was provided, whose light supplied the place of gas and spermaceti candles. The window was rendered secure, the door barred, and henceforth, during the siege, no one would be permitted to enter without giving the watchword and countersign. The whole night long was devoted to frolic and fun. A roaring fire blazed in the capacious fireplace, at which the boys broiled meat, cooked corn-dodgers and other articles of food, for a banquet. They- literally occupied "the ground floor" of the building, for the floor of these school-houses was generally the bare earth. They had, therefore, no fear of making a grease spot upon the carpet. The neighbors, who were in the secret, aiding and abetting the boys, were admitted, and took part in the frolic. Cuffy, with his fiddle, was an indispensible part of the entertainment. Dancing and other amusements were kept up till broad day light. The boys awaited with a share of bravado, but with real MY OWN TIMES. 9 anxiety, the arrival of the teacher, at the usual hour, to open the school. This was the all-important crisis. If he succeeded, their hopes of a vacation were at an end, their valor would be come a public theme of ridicule, and not a few of them stand a (pretty fair chance of receiving a handsome thrashing. When the hour of trial arrived in earnest, it often happened that those very boys who had been the loudest in boasting of the feats of valor they would perform, suddenly found that their courage, like that of Bob Acres, had some how or other, all oozed out at the ends of their fingers. In this respect they were not much different from men. In our Indian wars, and on various other occasions, I have discovered that the fierce, swaggering fire- eater, who is ready to face an earthquake when no earthquake is to be faced, is pretty sure to become as harmless as a quaker- gun, whenever he finds himself in the presence of real danger. True, manly courage is never boastful, nor does it put on a fierce, overbearing air. Sometimes the teacher himself is gratified at being barred out, and a good excuse thus afforded him for a short vacation. In that case, after a little mock resistance, he pretends to yield with great reluctance to their invincible prowess, and grants them all they ask. Instances sometimes, though rarely, occurred in which the obstinate resistance of the teacher was cured by duck ing him in cold water. Numerous kinds of plays were common among the youth, in some of which both sexes took a part One of these, called "shuffling the brogue," was probably introduced by the emi grants from Ireland, for the name is unmistakably Irish, though it is precisely the same play that is known in England and our own Eastern States, by the name of " hunting the sHpper." I could mention many sports and pastimes peculiar to the fron tier, which have long since passed away. The descendants of the backwoodsmen have become too much improved in their manners to tolerate any amusement that is not doubly refined and politely insipid. Dancing parties were frequent. No royal birthnight ball ever exhibited finer specimens of manly and feminine beauty than did these rustic assemblies. The girls grew up to womanhood in the most profound ignorance of corsets, and the whole tribe of instruments of torture with which modern fine ladies distort and disfigure their forms in attempting to improve them. They were accustomed, from their infancy, to healthful exercise, plain food, and the pure mountain air. The consequence was, that nature moulded and rounded their fully-developed forms into models for the statuary. I doubt not that many will smile at my having dwelt thus long upon the amusements of the youth on the frontiers, re- 10 MY OWN TIMES. garding the pastimes of childhood as a very trivial theme. So thought not the philosophers and statesmen of Greece. CHAPTER V. £arly History and Commerce of Tennessee. Although the first settlement of Tennessee was previous to "MY OWN TIMES," I shall give a rapid sketch of that and some succeeding portions of the history of that State. Without such a sketch, some portions of my work would be little understood. The territorial possessions of North Carolina, long previous to the American Revolution, were extended, by virtue of a Royal grant, from the eastern boundary of that colony to the Missis sippi River. This territory, comprising the present State. of Tennessee, was an unknown region, inhabited only by hostile tribes, till about the year 1766, when the settlements of Virginia and North Carolina began to extend to the western slope of the great Alleghany chain, into the district of country known at that period by the name of "the Watagah country," from an inconsiderable river of that name. From this period, popula tion began slowly, but steadily, to extend farther and farther West, till it reached the great mountain range that divides East from West Tennessee. Here, for a long period, the onward wave of population was staid. It was not till the year 1767, that North Carolina extended the jurisdiction of her laws over that region. In that year the whole extent of Tennessee, East and West, was organized into a single county, to which the Legislature, in honor of the future Commander-in-Chief of the American armies, fighting the bat tles of the Revolution, gave the name of Washington. Sullivan County was estabhshed in 1679, Greene in 1783, and Hawkins in 1776. All these counties were in East Tennessee, on the west side of the mountains. Davidson County was established in 1780, and Tennessee County in 1788. These were all the coun ties organized by North Carolina, within the present limits of Tennessee, before the latter passed from under the jurisdiction of the parent State. The French colonists of North America, from the earliest period of our colonial history, were successful rivals of our own countrymen in their trade with the Indians. From some cause or other, they were far more successful in gaining the confidence and friendship of the Indian tribes scattered over the western country. In 1700, the French trappers visited West Tennessee, traded and established friendly relations with the tribes on that side of the mountains, and finally extended their trade with the Indians over East Tennessee. MY OWN TIMES, 1 1 Charleville, an enterprising Frenchman, ascended the Missis sippi and Ohio Rivers with a stock of goods suited to the In dian trade, and established a trading-house at the mouth of the Tennessee, where the flourishing town of Paducah now stands. This was in the year 17 14. Another French trading-post was established on the same river, about twelve miles from its mouth ; and several others in the vicinity of the present city of ¦ Nashville. Near the latter place, the French, at one period, were accustomed to manufacture salt, and hence that region, for a long period, was known among the Americans by the name of the "French Licks'' These French traders mostly had white families residing with them, but no town or village of that nation was ever formed in Tennessee. American hunters and explorers visited West Tennessee in 1769. In the following year, a party of them descended the Cumberland River, with a large cargo of peltries and furs, which they disposed of at Natchez, which was then a Spanish town, forming a part of Florida. This was the first attempt to navi gate the Cumberland. In 1775, Capt. De Montbrun, subsequently commandant at Kaskaskia, traded and made his residence near Nashville. In 1778 a few cabins were erected, and a crop of corn raised in West Tennessee, near Bledsoe's Lick. A large colony emi grated to that section from Long Island in the Holston. A branch of this party went by land, under the command of Gen. Robinson, crossing the mountains at the Cumberland Gap, and wending their way through the Southern part of Kentucky. These intrepid emigrants suffered many hardships in their long and tedious journey, but under the judicious leadership of that excellent man. Gen. Robinson, they at length reached their place of destination in safety. This was in 1780. The other division of that colony, under the command of Col. Donaldson, descended the Holston and Tennessee. Their sufferings on this voyage were truly appalling. Many deaths occurred on the route from the hardships and privations they endured. At length the survivors, worn down with toils and sufferings, joined the other division of the colony at the Bluffs. This body of emigrants was the nucleus of the settlement of Cumberland, as West Ten nessee was then, and for a long period afterward, styled. In 1782, the Legislature of North Carolina laid off a town at the "Bluffs," and named it Nashville, in honor of Gen. Nash, a gallant officer of the Revolutionary War. On the 6th of October of the following year, was held the first court ever organized in West Tennessee. It was held at the new town of Nashville, which was made the county-seat of Davidson County, which at that period embraced an area large enough for a small State. While the tejritory comprised within the present boundaries 12 MY OWN TIMES. of the State of Tennessee, yet belonged to North Carolina, a determination became almost universal, among the settlers, to "cut loose" from all connection with the parent State, and establish a government of their own. In pursuance of this feehng, delegates were elected from the three counties of Washington, Greene, and Sullivan, who met in convention at Jonesborough, on the 23rd of August 1784. to deliberate upon the subject of a separate state organization. They declared the territory an independent state, and gave it the name of the "State of Franklin" in honor of our great American philosopher and patriot. Another convention was held shortly after, at the same place, which adopted a constitu tion for the new State, and confirmed the doings of the former delegates. Neither the parent State, nor the General Government, was at ah disposed to sanction these proceedings. -North Carolina relieved herself from this unpleasant controversy, by ceding the whole territory to the United States. A territorial gov ernment was estabhshed by Congress, and Wilham Blount appointed by .the President, General Washington, as the first Governor. Gen. White, the father of the distinguished Senator, Hugh L. White, laid off the town of Knoxville in 1791. At that period it was included in the county of Hawkins. Gov. Blount, and the territorial judges, created the county of Knox, and made Knoxville its county seat, and the seat of government for the territory. In 1796, Tennessee was admitted into the Union, and has ever since held a high rank in our confederacy. The State of Franklin, with its constitution, was permitted silently and quietly to sink into oblivion, and not a few of the present inhabitants of Tennessee are ignorant of the fact that such an organization, with all the fearful elements of discord which it might, under other circumstances, have contained, ever existeu. It is difficult at the present day, fully to realize the disad vantages under which Tennessee labored, from the period of its first settlement, down to the cession of Louisiana to the United States in 1803. With a soil and climate admirably adapted to the production of the most valuable agricultural staples of the country, it was useless for the people to cultivate their rich soil 'beyond what was needful for their own consumption. There was no market for any surplus. No possible price at which any kind of produce might be sold, would pay the expense of trans porting to Baltimore, the nearest eastern market, by a land carriage of many hundred miles, over mountains, and on roads that were often hardly passable with empty wagons. The Mississippi, the natural channel of commerce for the entire West, was closed against them. The banks of that river, on both sides, for several hundred miles of the Icjwer part of its MY OWN TIMES. 13 course, including the port of New Orleans, was in the possession of Spain, whose avowed policy it was to cut off the Western people from the navigation of that river. Almost the only two articles produced in East Tennessee, that would justify the expense of land-carriage to the eastern cities, were saltpetre and gingseng. The first-named article was found in abundance in many of the mountain caves. It is hardly needful to inform the reader that gingseng is a root that grows wild in certain locations, but all attempts to cultivate the plant have failed. The early Jesuit missionaries to China found a root in use at the court of the Emperor, and by the more wealthy among the Mandarins, to the medical properties of which they ascribed almost miraculous power. It was supposed to grow nowhere else in the world, but in a single mountainous district of no great extent, in China, and readily commanded a most extravagant price. The missionaries sent a description of the plant to Europe. In 1720, the Abbe Lafiteau, a Jesuit missionary among the Indians, discovered it in the forests of Canada. Half a century later, it was found to grow in abund ance in the United States. For many years, gingseng obtained a ready sale to our eastern merchants, who exported it to China. The high price at which it was sold made it a valuable article of traffic to the early emigrants of East Tennessee, cut off, as they were, from the usual means of trade and commerce. CHAPTER VI. The Emigration of the Writer's Father from Tennessee to Kaskaskia, lUinois. — -Fort Massacre. The Spanish Government to afford protection to their fron tiers from the Indians and the British in Canada, encouraged the Americans to emigrate and settle in their domains, west of the Mississippi. Lands were bountifully bestowed on all immi grants, and such other encouragement was held out to them, that many prosperous and important American settlements were formed in the Spanish country. The lead mines also encouraged immigration to New Spain, by which name the country west ot the Mississippi was frequently called. The large and respectable family and connections of the Murphys, who located on the waters of the St. Francis River, south-west of Ste. Genevieve, in the present State of Missouri, emigrated from Tennessee, not far from the residence of rny father, and gave popularity to the emigration to New Spain. My father caught the mania — sold out and started for the Spanish country west of the Mississippi. .We left Tennessee in February, 1800, with eight horses and two wagons, for New Spain. Our company consisted of my 14 MY OWN TIMES. parents, six children, I the oldest, three hired men, and a colored woman. We had also another animal with us, a dog, that fol lowed us through good and evil report to the end of our jour ney. Fortunately we had no other stock. Our clothing, beds, and some farming utensils, with our provisions, made the light freight for our two wagons, which was fortunate, as heavy burdens would have been a great injury to us. We crossed Clinch River at Kingston, and entered the Indian Territory. At that day, the Cumberland mountains were a dreary wilderness, not a settlement on them between Kingston and near the Cum berland River, at the mouth of the Caney Fork, where Carthage now stands. We had strong teams and light loads, so that we crossed the mountains without difficulty. My father had been over these mountains often, guarding the travellers across them, in the time of the Indian wars, and was thereby well acquainted with the various localities in them. This made our travel over them the more pleasant and expeditious. We passed Dixon's Spring, Bledsoe's Lick, Gallatin, and crossed Red River not far from the mouth. We then entered the State of Kentucky and passed the site of the present Hopkinsville. At that day, the jail was the only building in the place. In this vicinity we wit nessed the first semblance of the prairies, and in many places they were tolerably well developed. We passed the residence of Judge Prince, where Princeton now stands, and the next con spicuous stand was Ritchie's Horse Mill. At Lusk's ferry, we reached the noble and beautiful Ohio River in the evening. The river was full up to the top of the banks, and exhibited a magnificence and beauty that was the admiration of our whole travelling caravan. We had often read and heard of the beauty and splendor of this famous river, but it surpassed the liveliest and brightest conceptions we had formed of it. But the pleasures we enjoyed at the sight of this beauti ful stream soon vanished, when we cast our eyes across it to the dreary waste of wilderness that extended almost indefinitely from its north-western shores. We were encompassed with a wilderness, filled with savages and wild beasts, and extending on the north to the pole itself, and on the west to China, except a few straggling settlements on the Mississippi and the Wabash Rivers. And to make our miseries complete, our three em ployed men, who had been engaged to work for my father for a year, abandoned us, took with them three horses, and left us desolate in ^this wilderness. The scene was appalling and dis tressing. My parents and six children, myself only twelve years old, without assistance camped in a wilderness. My father was an energetic man, and possessed extraordinary firmness. He had crossed the Rubicon, and determined to travel on to the west of the Mississippi. He employed a man to assist us through the wilderness, and after making the necessary ar- MY OWN TIMES. 15 rangements at Lusk's ferry, we crossed the Ohio on a beautiful Sunday morning. We landed at the site in Illinois where Gol- conda now stands, in Pope County. I well recollect, that the west side of the Ohio was then called "the Indian Country." I ' recollect asking Mr. Lusk how far it was to the next town.? and he laughed and said, "one hundred and ten miles to Kaskaskia, 1 which is the first settlement on the route." In this journey to Kaskaskia, we were doomed to encounter much difficulty and hardship. The first trouble we had to sur mount was a hurricane, that prostrated the trees across the road in such manner, that we could not move on at all until a passage for the wagons was cut through the fallen timber. At this scene of the tornado it snowed on us, and we knew not at first what distance the hurricane extended. We would not return, and it looked impossible at first to pass through so much prostrate timber. The labor of my father surmounted the difficulty. He carefully examined the route, where the last number of trees impeded, and commenced he and his hired man to cut a road over and round this fallen timber. I drove a wagon at a time on the new cut road, and then went back for the other; so that the axes might work all the time. At last we got through the fallen trees, better than we first anticipated. No other impedimenti interrupted us, until we reached Big Muddy River. This stream we found swimming, and we lay at it until we could ford it; as no one lived at it, and there was neither ferry or bridge over it We lay there two weeks, which appeared as long as two years in Paris or London. On a clear evening, the river commenced to rise without any rain falling, where we camped. It had rained toward the sources of the stream, and we discovered it was useless to wait any longer for it to fall. It was a gloomy and painful prospect be fore us. Our horses were without food, as there was no grass, and we had no corn. We had as yet plenty of provisions; but our teams were becoming poor and feeble, to such extent that we might not be able to travel. My father decided to construct a raft, on which to cross the river. The Indians had deadened many of the elm trees near the stream, and they were dry and light. They were cut down and hauled to the bank of the river, and in two days' work a large raft was constructed. The light planks of the wagons made a floor to the raft, and we got our bed cords fastened across the stream, so that the raft could be towed across with ease. We had two axes, and the hired man let one fall into the river and lost it This accident alarmed us greatly. If we lost the other, our travelling and rafting was at an end until we procured an axe. We saved the other, and travelled on West. We rafted four creeks, and travelled round the head of another. ^ The last l6 MY OWN TIMES. we rafted was Beaucoup Creek, some thirty miles east of Kas kaskia. We were four weeks travelling the journey from the Ohio River to Kaskaskia, and experienced much hardship and difficulty in the route. In rafting the streams, we took the wagons to pieces and crossed them in parcels. The horses swam over; but were at times troubled to get up the perpendicular banks of the streams. In the present county of Williamson, west of the Crab Or chard, was the first prairie we saw. We halted the cavalcade, and gazed with wonder and delight at it. It was so smooth, it had been recently burnt, and so level, and so extensive that our eyes were dimmed in gazing on it. We wondered what was the reason the timber did not grow on it. No one of us dreamed that it was the fire in the grass that caused the prairies. I have been thus much in detail with our journey to Illinois, as most of the immigrants of that day experienced some such difficulty in travelling to the West. At the time we reached Illinois, two companies of the United States army were stationed at Fort Massacre, and perhaps a few families resided near the fort and were dependent on it. This was the only white settlement between the Ohio and the Missis sippi. Fort Massacre was established by the French about the year 1711, and was also a missionary station. It was only a small fortress until the war of 1755 commenced between the English and French. In 1756, the fort was enlarged and made a re spectable fortress, considering the wilderness it was in. It was at this place where the Christian missionaries instructed the Southern Indians in the Gospel precepts; and it was here also that the French soldiers made a resolute stand against the enemy. I visited Fort Massacre in 1855, and examined its site and remaining vestiges. The outside walls were 135 feet square, and at each angle strong bastions were erected. The walls were palisades with earth between the wood. A large well was sunk in the fortress, and the whole appeared to have been strong and substantial in its day. Three or four acres of gravelled walks were made on the north of the forts, on which the soldiers paraded. These walks are made in exact angles, and are beautifully gravelled with the pebbles from the river. The site is one of the most beautiful on La Belle Revierre, and commands a view of the Ohio that is charming and lovely. French genius for the selection of sites for forts is eminently sustained in their choice of Fort Massacre. MY OWN TIMES. 17 CHAPTER VII. Eirst View of the Mississippi and Kaskaskia. — The Indians. — My Father Dishked the Spanish Government — Remained in Illinois. When we approached the high bluffs east of Kaskaskia we halted our travelling caravan, and surveyed with wonder and ¦delight the prospect before us. It was in the spring, and the scenery was beautiful. The eye ranged up and down the American Bottom for many miles, and the whole landscape lay, as it were, at our feet The j-iver bluffs rose two hundred feet or more above the bottom, and the prairie lay extended before our view, covered with cat tle and horses grazing on it The Mississippi itself could be seen in places through the forest of cotton-wood trees skirting its shores, and the ancient village of Kaskaskia presented its singular form and antique construction to our sight. The ancient Cathedral stood a venerable edifice in the heart of the village, with its lofty steeple, and large bell — the first church bell I ever saw. Around the village were numerous camps and lodges of the Kaskaskia Indians, still retaining much of their original savage independence. The large common field with a fence stretched out from the Kaskaskia River to the Mississippi extended on one side of the village, and the pommons covered with cattle on the other. Near the bluff on the east, the Ka.skaskia River wended its way south, and entered the Mississippi six miles below the village of Kaskaskia. This was our first sight of a kind of quasi-cW\\iz2t.tion we saw in Illinois, and it was so strange and uncouth to us, that if we had been landed on another planet we would not have been more surprised. The Kaskaskia Indians were numerous, and had still retained some of their savage customs. Many of the young warriors decorated themselves in their gaudy and fantastic attire with paints. Feathers of birds were tied in their hair; and some times the horns of animals were also attached to their heads. They galloped in this fantastic dress around our encampment This was a kind of salutation more to demonstrate their per sons and their exploits than anything else. After recruiting a short time, and obtaining some provisions for ourselves and food for our horses, from the grist-mill of General Edgar, which was "hard by," my father had his humble caravan prepared to cross the Mississippi and "all aboard," when some gentlemen from Kaskaskia came to our encamp ment and held a conversation with my father. These gentle men were Messrs. Robert Morrison, John Rice Jones, Pierre 2 l8 MY OWN TIMES. Menard, and John Edgar, who debated the subject with my^ father, whether it was not better for him to remain at Kaskaskia. sometime, and look around for a permanent residence. The argument of these gentlemen prevailed, and my parents agreed to take a house in Kaskaskia, and examine the country "around about" After taking sometime in the exploration of the eastern side of the Mississippi, my father reaffirmed his decision to make the Spanish country his residence, and went to Ste. Genevieve to obtain a permit of the Spanish Commandant to settle on the west side of the river. In the permit to settle in the Domains of Spain, it was re quired that my father should raise his children in the Roman Catholic Church. This pledge was a requisition of the Govern ment in all cases, and my father refused to agree to it. My whole family were Protestants, and would not consent to edu cate their children in a faith they did not approve. This was the main reason that decided our destiny to settle and reside in Illinois. The visit of the Kaskaskia citizens had no doubt some effect with my father; but the requisition of the Spanish "Gov ernment was the- governing principle with my Protestant an cestors. It is surprising to witness, through the progress of human events, the small circumstances that frequently occur without much notice, and often without reflection, which often govern the fate and destiny of a person or nation forever. The perse cution of the Puritans in old England caused the settlements of New England, and out of it mighty results flowed. The small circumstance of my father disliking the Spanish requisition decided the fate of himself and family as to residence. We remained in Kaskaskia for some months, and planted corn in the French common field; but at last located in the smaU settlement a few miles east of Kaskaskia. Our residence was within about two and a half miles of Kaskaskia, and we made mathematically the seventh family in the colony. We made our habitation east of Kaskaskia River in the forest amongst the high grass, and the wolves and wild animals were howling and prowhng about us every night We enjoyed not the least semblance of a school, or a house of worship, or scarcely any other blessing arising out of a civihzed community. In this state of the country, it required great moral courage to remain in it. My father conquered all difficulties and re mained here during his life. The wise Creator formed the human family to become fa miliar and reconciled to the surrounding circumstances. In a few years, we all were pleased and happy in our present wilder ness location; but at first, it was extremely painful and disa greeable. Although a great amount of destitution stared us in MY OWN TIMES. 19 the face, yet in a few years, we forgot our artificial wants, and were happy among the Indians and wolves. CHAPTER VIII. iUinois in 1800.— -The White Population. — The Indian Tribes. — Hard Fate of the Aborgines.— Want of Schools and Churches. — Agricul ture — Farming Implements. — Mills. — Counties. — Government. The territory, that at this day embraces the populous State of Ilhnois, presented at that early period a savage wilderness. The entire white population, French and Americans, amounted to about two thousand or perhaps a small fraction more. The French Creoles numbered about twelve hundred, and the Americans eight hundred or a thousand. The negroes, slaves and free, of that day, amounted to two hundred I presume. The white popiilafion extended in sparse settlements from Kaskaskia, fifty odd miles, to Cahokia, and back east from the river only a few miles. The colonies of Turkey Hill, the New Design, Horse Prairie, and that where my fsftier resided, were the eastern limits of the American population, and it would not average back from the river more than eight or ten miles. The eight hundred American inhabitants who resided in Illi nois at this time, were located in the following settlements, and in the numbers following, as near as I can estimate them. The whole extent of the American Bottom numbered about three hundred and fifty souls. The New Design contained about two hundred and fifty. These two colonies embraced the principal American population of the country. Six or eight American families resided in Kaskaskia. The settlement where my father located contained seven famihes, and the Horse Prairie colony less. The settlement around Piggot's ancient fort amounted to some thirty souls, and a less number were settled around the old forts known as "Whiteside's Station," and Belle Fountain. A small settlement had existed and had almost expired in 1800, situated between the present Waterloo and the Mississippi bluff in Monroe County. At one period this colony might have con tained thirty-five inhabitants. At Turkey Hill, was a small col ony of a few families, containing in all fifteen or twenty souls, in 1800. These were all the American settlements in Illinois at this period. The entire French population was comprised within the vil lage of Kaskaskia, Prairie du Rocher, Cahokia, and Prairie du Pont, and some few French hamlets besides, which will be here after mentioned. Kaskaskia contained five hundred inhabitants, Prairie du Rocher two hundred, Prairie du Pont one hundred, and Cahojcia four hundred, amounting in all to twelve hun- 20 MY OWN TIMES. dred. At this period, the villages of Fort Chartres and St. Phihp were extinct Some few French famihes resided on the "Big Island" in the Mississippi, in the present county of Madi son. A few at Peoria, and a handsome small village at Prairie du Chien. Also a small hamlet at Cape au Grit, on the Missis sippi, a short distance above the mouth of Illinois, amounting in all perhaps to one hundred inhabitants, or a few more. Only a very small number of slaves were Americans, who were held to service by a kind of indenture, and the rest were French. Most of these French slaves resided in Prairie du Rocher, and were the descendants of the slaves brought to Illinois in the year 1720, from the Island of San Domingo, by Philip Francis Renault, to work the mines. This small amount of white popu lation was isolated from the rest of the inhabitants by vast regions of wilderness, except on the west of the Mississippi. At this early period, considerable colonies existed on the west side of the river, and extended much farther on the Mississippi than the settlements in Illinois. The lead mines of the Spanish country attracted emigration, and the colonies extended back west from the rwer forty or more miles. These settlements were much larger than on the east side of the Mississippi, al though they were in a foreign Government, yet they gave strength and efficiency to the weaker colonies on the east side of the stream. The Indian tribes inhabiting the wilderness of that day, which is now comprised in the present limits of the State of Illinois, were numerous, warlike, and courageous. The savages at that day all possessed a wild and hostile spirit that existed through out the North American Indians. The wars had not then sub dued their spirits. The Sac and Fox tribes were united, and formed at that day a large, brave, and powerful nation. Their chief residence was near Rock Island, in the Mississippi, and throughout the country around that locality. The Winnebagoes resided on the upper part of Rock River, and west of Green Bay, north-west of Lake Michigan, and on and over the Wisconsin River. The Pottawatomies inhabited the region between Lake Michigan and the Illinois River, and down that river. The war-like and courageous small nation of the Kickapoo Indians dwelt in the prairies north and east of Springfield, and also in the region of country around Blooming- ton. The Kaskaskia Indians were housed in by the other tribes to the country around about their ancient village of Kaskaskia. The Piankishaws were located in the south-eastern section of the State, and inhabited the waters of the lower Wabash River, on both sides of that stream. The most dense Indian population of the West was on the Illinois River, and its tributaries. Also, on the Mississippi, near Rock Island, was a strong Indian population, but not equal to MY OWN TIMES. 21 that on the Illinois River. It is impossible to be accurate in the estimation of the number of Indians who resided in the limits of the State at this early period. I presume it would range between 30,000 and 40,000 souls, and at this day, not one exists in the State. The destruction of the Indians of North America is a sub ject that has enlisted the sympathy and deepest feeling of every philanthropist in the Union — whether they acquired the country at first, right or wrong. When the whites discovered it they were the peaceable occupants of it. Generation succeeded gen eration of the natives, for ages, in the peaceable possession of their inheritance, descended from their ancestors, which gave them as much equity and justice to retain possession of it as any civilized nation has at this day for the country they inhabit. Not only had the aborigines of Illinois an undoubted right to the country they occupied, but the climate, fertility of soil, and other advantages, made them as happy in their mode of life as the same country does the whites at this time, in propor tion to the difference of civilization. The whites discovered the Indians peaceable and happy in Illinois, and at this day all are torn away from their own country, and many whole tribes have been destroyed. The Government is now affording them all the protection which is in their power, to preserve them from annihilation and make them happy. They are removed from the whites as far as possible, and education has always been urged on them. That wanton and wicked passion, existing in olden times in the hearts of the whites, to destroy and annihilate the natives, as if they were wild beasts of prey, has measurably subsided, and the spirit of kindness and Christianity has taken its place. This humane and Christian policy of the Government has caused much happiness to prevail amongst this unfortunate race. But it seems the destiny of the United States, in its march toJ^J^e summit level of its greatness, will inevitably destroy the abo rigines. To this great and unparalleled onward march of the United States, the aborigines must yield. If the Government had preserved the natives in their posses sions in the Union, only small patches of the United States would be at this time settled or civilized. Attempts have been made for ages to improve the Northern Indians, and they obsti nately refused to accept the boon. Most, or all of them from the old States, at last followed their relatives to the West, and bid defiance to civilization. It seems it is a decree of Heaven that they cannot become civilized men. The efforts of the most humane men have been exhausted in vain on them, to improve them, and identify them with the whites. Some honorable exceptions exist in the South to this rule amongst some Indian tribes. 22 MY OWN TIMES. The zeal and ardent desire to Christianize and improve the natives caused hundreds of the most learned and pious mis sionaries to leave Europe, and spend their lives with the abo rigines of both North and South America. The first explorers of the country did not visit it for personal advancement or pecuniary gain, but for the more holy object of Christianizing the natives. It cannot be denied: the policy practised by the first Christian missionaries did good; but the country changed hands, and these missionary efforts ceased with it. The In dians are now in the hands of the Lord and the United States Government to guide them to happiness, it is hoped. It seems the progress of the country must make the aborigines yieM to the onward march of civilization and Christianity. In the county of Randolph there was not a single school or school-house in 1800, except, perhaps, John Doyle, a soldier of the Revolution under General Clark, might have taught a few children in Kaskaskia at or after this period. In the settlement of the New Design, an Irishman, not well qualified, called Halfpenny, at this period, instructed some few pupils. This school was the only one among the Americans at this early day. In the American Bottom, perhaps a school might have existed, but not long at a time. Under the guidance of the clergy in the French villages at rare intervals, schools were established, but their numbers and efficacy were limited. , The agriculture at this period was limited and inefficient. The citizens were generally poor, and raised not much surplus pro duce. At this period, there was neither barley, rye, nor oats cultivated in the country. Corn, wheat, and potatoes were then, as they are now, staple articles. The Americans cultivated the same species of corn they do now, but the French almost entirely raised the hard flinty corn, out of which hominy was mapufactured. They also sowed spring wheat, as their common fields were occupied by the cattle all winter. The Americans mostly raised fall wheat, and at times some spring wheat also. In early times, the French cultivated only a scanty supply of potatoes, or other vegetables, except articles pertaining to the gardens. In horticulture, they excelled the Americans. The lettuce, peas, beans, beets, carrots, and similar vegetables, were cultivated considerably in the French gardens. In this neces sary branch of culture the pioneer Americans did not rival their French neighbors, but in a "truck patch" the Anglo-Saxons surpassed the other race. Cabbages were to some extent culti vated, but sweet potatoes then were not seen in the country. In early times, flax and cotton were cultivated considerably. Large stocks of cattle, horses, and hogs were raised in proportion to the number of inhabitants. The French cart was a primitive vehicle, made entirely of wood, and not an atom of iron in its MY OWN TIMES. 23 ¦construction. Running it without grease, it made a creaking noise, which could be heard at a great distance. At this early ¦day, the agricultural implements were defective. The old bar- share plow was used by the Americans, and sometimes the shovel plow, in the growing corn. The common hoe was the same then that is used at this day. The French depended more on hunting and voyaging for a living than on agriculture, and therefore paid less atteniion to the cultivation of the earth. Their plows, and they had but one class of that instrument, was of French descent I presume, as I saw the same species of plows in Old France. The French plo# was destitute of iron, except a small piece, and the same fastened to the point of the wood of the instrument to cut the earth. The metal was tied with rawhide to the wood of the plow, and also a kind of mortice was made in the forepart of the share, in which the front of the wood was inserted. The bar, as it is called, was constructed of wood. The handles were very short and crooked, so that the plowman walked almost on his plow. The beam was straight, and laid oh the axle of a low-wheeled carriage. The wheels of this vehicle were low and made without iron, similar to the wheels of a wheelbarrow. Holes in the beam of the plow permitted the instrument to be .so regulated on the axle that it would make the proper depth of furrow. The plow was dragged on generally by oxen. The cattle were hitched to the plow by a straight yoke, which was tied to the horns of the oxen by straps of untanned leather. Some few grist-mills were established in the country in 1800, and one saw-mill. General Edgar had erected a fine flouring- mill on a small stream passing through the Mississippi Bluff, a short distance north-east of Kaskaskia, which did considerable . business for two-thirds of the year. This mill manufactured flour for the New-Orleans market, and frequently boats were freighted from this mill with the flour to the Southern market Henry Levens had in operation at this date the only saw-mill in the country. It was built on Horse Creek, a few miles from the mouth of the creek, in Randolph County. Judy owned a water-mill, situated a few miles south of Columbia, in the present county of Monroe. West of this mill, and near the Mississippi Bluff, Valentine owned a small water- mill. In Prairie du Pont, Jean F. Perry owned a water-mill for many years. This was the same site where the Jesuits had erected a mill some forty or fifty years previous. Joseph Kin ney had a small water-mill on a stream east of the New Design. In all the French villages, ^nd in the New Design also, horse- mills were erected, and some business done by them when the ¦water-mills were dry. The North-western Territory was divided; and on the 7th ¦day of May, 1800, the Indiana Territory was established. Illi- 24 MY OWN TIMES. nois formed the western part of the Territory. The two coun-* ties of St. Clair and Randolph were formed and organized previous to this period. The county seats were for Randolph at Kaskaskia, and for St. Clair at Cahokia, and courts were held in each of them. William Henry Harrison was the governor of the Territory; and the seat of government was established at Vincennes. CHAPTER IX. Wilderness in the West in 1800. — The Soil and Surface of lUinois. — The Prairies. — Is Timber an advantage to the Country? The vast region of country in 1800, extending from a few miles west of Nashville, Tennessee, and west of a few colonies- in the North-western Territory to the Pacific Ocean, was a wil derness, except small settlements on the margins of the Missis sippi, in Upper Louisiana, and Illinois. A small colony was established around the ancient French village of Vincennes,. which interrupted, in a small degree, the wilderness that ex tended north to the frozen ocean. The wilderness on the South and West was only arrested by the Spanish settlements in Lower Louisiana, and by New Spain and California to the West. Almost all the north-western part of the continent of North America, from these settlements \vest and north-west was^ a wilderness, and in the undisturbed possession of the natives. At that day, three-fourths of the State of Ohio and nine- tenths of Indiana was a waste, only occupied by wandering; tribes of Indians. Illinois then had only a speck of white popu lation in its extended limits, and the rest remaining under the peaceable dominion of the red men. What a change has been produced in half a century by the talents and energies of the American people. The country at this day cannot be compared with itself fifty years back. Neither prose, poetry, nor painting can present ancient Illinois in its true picture to the present generation. Everything is so radically changed and altered that the very soil itself, on which a person has remained all the time, has altered and changed sc much that it can hardly be recognized. Illinois presents generally an even and beautiful surface of the most fertile and prolific soil of any other Statfe in the Union. At some remote period the whole West was inundated, and. when the water subsided an alluvial soil is presented in Illinois. that cannot be surpassed. The surface has a gradual slope from north to .south, which is sufficient to drain off the water and at the same time not to injure the agricultural efficiency of the country. Neither mountains, rocks, nor morasses exist in the ample dimensions of the State to injure it Some unprofitable MY OWN TIMES. 2$, land may now be near the large streams, but in a few years, im provements will reach them, and the whole State will then pre sent an uninterrupted surface of cultivation teeming with agri cultural wealth. The formation of the surface of the earth is a curiosity, and to solve the difficulty is impossible. In many parts of Illinois, and perhaps throughout the whole State, wood and bark of trees are found many feet below the surface. In digging. wells for water, these logs and brush-wood are frequently discovered at considerable depths. Mr. Pearce, in sinking a well on high ground in St Clair County, found the wood and bark of a sassa fras tree fifty-seven feet below the surface. To find wood and vegetable substances below the surface is quite common in Illi nois. Also in sections of the State, a second soil is discovered when sinking wells. This second soil is black and alluvial, and in it are generally brush-wood and vegetable matter. The second soil is mostly found at the depth of eighteen or twenty feet. Near the salines, in Gallatin County and Big Muddy, earthen-ware has been discovered in the earth many feet be low the surface. The presumption is, that the aborigines used this ware for the manufacture of salt. The question arises, how did this great stratum of matter become extended . over this previous surface of the earth.? Another equally interesting curiosity is the "Lost Rocks"' scattered throughout the prairies in the northern section of the State. The rocks are of the primitive-granite class, and as no^ other rocks exist near them of that species, they are designated "Lost Rocks." They are larger in the north than in the south of the State. Millstones were, in pioneer times, manufactured out of them. They are mostly a dark-brown color, and made such singular appearance in the prairies that they often frightened our horses when we were "ranging" in their vicinity,. in time of the war of 1812. The question forces itself on the mind, like the case of the second soil, how did these rocks find their way here.' No one believes they were formed where they are now. The most approved supposition is that the Western Valley was once a great lake, and these rocks were embedded in ice bergs formed on the slopes of the Chippewaean Mountains to the North- West and floated down in the water hke the icebergs in the ocean. The larger rocks being in the North would favor this theory. Such subjects, and many others, will remain for ever locked up in the arcana of nature. One thing is certain, that the earth shows years of age beyond human computation. The Grand Prairie is situated east of the Kaskaskia River, and between Carlyle and Salem, and is nearly one hundred miles in circumference. Illinois was parceled out in 1800, between prairie and timbered 2,6 MY OWN TIMES. lands. All south of a line extending from Kaskaskia by Perry and Franklin Counties, to White County on the Wabash River, is a timbered country, and north of it mostly the prairies inter mix with timber. Toward the north of the State, the prairies are large, and the timber only exists on the margins of the streams, and other places where the fire could not reach it. Many learned essays are written on the origin of the prairies, but any attentive observer will come to the conclusion that it is hre burning the strong high grass that caused the prairies. I have witnessed the growth of the forest in these southern counties of Illinois, and know there is more timber in them now than there was forty or fifty years before. The obvious reason is, the fire is kept out. This is likewise the reason the prairies are generally the most fertile soil. The vegetation in them was the strongest, and the fires there burnt with the most power. The timber was destroyed more rapidly in the fertile soil than in the barren lands. It will be seen that the timber in the north of the State is found only on the margins of streams and other places where the prairie-fires could not reach it It is one of the great elements in the rapid growth of Illinois that such large and fertile prairies exist in the State. Nature has made the prairies the finest and most fertile fields in the Union, and has prepared them ready for cultivation. If the State had been all timber, it would at this day be thirty or forty years behind its present high and prosperous position in the Union. There is not finer timber in America, east of the Rocky Moun tains, than grows in Southern Illinois. This is the main reason that the northern part of Illinois is growing faster than the southern; but so soon as the timber in the south finds a good market, then Southern Illinois "will blossom as the rose." Where the soil is so productive as it is in Ilhnois, it is probable that it would be better for the State if there was not a tree in it. There is more money made by the production of corn and ¦wheat than timber. CHAPTER X. Fort Chartres.— Its history.— Built of Wood in 1 718.— Rebuilt of Rock in 1756. — The French abandon it in 1765.— English Seat of Govern ment — ^WaUs washed down in 1772. — A heap of Ruins in 1855. When I first saw Fort Chartres, more than fifty years since, it presented the most singular and striking contrast between a •savage wilderness, filled with wild beasts and reptiles, and the remains of one of the largest and strongest fortifications on the continent. Large trees were growing in the houses which once contained the elegant and accompHshed French officers and MY OWN TIMES. 27 soldiers. Cannon, snakes, and bats were sleeping together in peace in and around this fort. On the loth of September, 1712, Louis XIV, King of France, made a grant of a monopoly of the trade of Louisiana to M. Crozat a wealthy merchant of Paris, for fifteen years ; but the commerce of the country not realizing the expectations of the grantee, he relinquished his grant to the King in 17 17. Under the agency of John Law, "the Company of the West" was established the same year, with great powers and privileges granted by the government of France. This company was organized to govern the country — make grants of lahd and enjoy a monopoly of the trade. By authority of this company, sometimes known as "the com pany of the Indies," M. Pierre Duque Boisbriant, the representa tive of the crown, and Marc Antoine de la Soire De Ursins, principal secretary of the company, arrived at Kaskaskia from New Orleans, with a small troop of soldiers. They had orders to select a site for a fort, and the same to be made the seat of government of Illinois. It was necessary to organize a govern ment in the country, and to erect a fortress to repel the attacks of the Indians, if it should become necessary. It was also the policy of the French Government to establish a line of forts west of the English settlements on the Atlantic, from New Orleans to Quebec. This was one of the garrisons. This fort was first commenced of wood in the year 17 18, and completed in less than two years. It was located in the Ameri can Bottom, about three miles from the eastern bluff of the Mississippi, and one mile at first from the river. The fortress was called, by way of eminence. Fort des Chartres, having a charter from the crown of France for its erection. It is situated in the north-west corner of Randolph County. A large lake extends between the fort and the bluff, and at this day a slough containing water at times was near its western base; but this lagoon did not exist at the time the fort was erected. The first fort contained all the necessary buildings to accom modate the seat of government of the country and the garrison. The quarters of the officers, and barracks for the soldiers, were finished in neat and becoming style of the country in pioneer times. Surrounding the whole was erected a strong palisade, fortified with earth between the walls of wood until it bid defiance to any enemy that might approach it in this remote situation. The head-quarters of M. Philip F. Renault were also estab lished in this fort, and it was at this point where ah his mining operations were concentrated. It was from this point he left Illinois in the year 1 744, to return to France. About the time of his arrival in his native land, he died, and the mining opera tions in Illinois seemed to wither and die with him. He re- 28 MY OWN TIMES. mained in Illinois about twenty-four years, and seemed to possess a sound judgment and great energy. He imported from France two hundred artizans, mechanics, and laboring men, that was the first arid the most profitable population Ilhnois had ever received from the mother-country at that early day. Many of the French Creoles of this day in Illinois can trace their ances try back to the brave and meritorious race who immigrated to this country in the year 1720, under the guidance of Renault. He also procured five hundred slaves at the Island of San Domingo, and brought them to Illinois to work the mines. These were the ancestors of the French slaves of Illinois, as heretofore stated. M. Boisbriant and De Ursans, representing the crown of France, and also the company of the Indies, made grants of land to facilitate the improvement of the country, and which grants are the most ancient west of the Alleghanies. These grants were issued at Fort Chartres, and dated, some of them, in the year 1722, and for many succeeding years. Under the mild and impartial government of the company, the country commenced to grow and flourish, and the seat of government. Fort Chartres, became the centre of business, fashion, and gaiety of all the Illinois Country. The villages around Fort Chartres, became respectable and prosperous com munities; but they ceased to exist with the fort, and the village of Fort Chartres was drowned with the fort in the flood of 1772. The Company of the West was dissolved in the year 1731, and Illinois again was governed by the crown of France. Boisbriant ceased to be governor of Illinois, and his successor was the brave and gallant young D'Artaquette. This officer was commandant and governor of Illinois in the year 1736, when Governor Bienville of Louisiana decided upon a campaign against the Chickasaw Indians. D'Artaquette, the governor of Illinois, exerted his influence over the various tribes of Indians west of Lake Michigan, and assembled one thousand warriors at Fort Chartres to descend the Mississippi to meet the army of Bienville from the South. The youthful and chivalrous Vincennes from the Wabash Coun try united his forces with those of D'Artaquette, and with as many French soldiers as could be obtained, all set sail down the iJ Mississippi from Fort Chartres, under the blessings of the clergy and roar of cannon and small arms. The army was defeated by the Chickasaws, and D'Artaquette, Vincennes, and some others, burnt to death at the stake. The next military governor of Fort Chartres was La Buis- soniere; and in the year 1739, he was called on by Bienville, governor of Louisiana, for a further supply of troops and In dians, to chastise the Chickasaws. La Buissoniere left Fort Chartres with two hundred white soldiers and three hundred In- MY OWN TIMES. 29 dian allies, under the command of himself and M. Celeron and M. St. Laurent, his lieutenants, to join the Southern army. La Buissoniere was the successor of the unfortunate chevalier D'Artaquette, and continued commandant of Illinois for many years. Under his administration the country increased in wealth and population. The agricultural interest assumed a greater eflSciency and permanency, and commenced to invigorate the country after the free navigation of the Mississippi was secured from the disturbance of the Chickasaw Indians. La Buissoniere remained in command at Fort Chartres until the fall of the year 1751, when he was succeeded by the Cheva lier Macarty. Macarty left New Orleans in August i/Si, with troops to reenforce the posts on the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers, and took command of Fort Chartres. Under the administration of Chevalier Macarty, Fort Chartres was built entirely in the new, and was one of the most con venient and strongest fortifications in North America. Its re construction was of solid and durable limestone. The rocks were quarried at the bluff, three miles east of the fort, rafted and boated over a large lake, and then carted to the building. They were limestone rocks, which stood, with sullen defiance, the hand of time, but yielded to the destroying hand of man. This fort was constructed in and before the year 1756, to de fend against the attacks of the English; as a war was then raging between France and England. In the year 1766, Captain Pitman, an officer in the British army, who was expressly charged to examine and report on the British possessions on the Mississippi, and whose statements are acknowledged to be correct, says: "The Fort," referring to Fort Chartres, "is an irregular quadrangle; the sides of the exterior polygon are 490 feet. The walls are two feet two inches thick, and are pierced with loop-holes at regular distances, and for two port-holes for cannon in the faces, and two in the flanks of each bastion. The ditch has never been finished. The entrance to the fort is through a very handsome rustic gate. Within the walls is a banquette, raised three feet for the men to stand on, where they fire through the loop-holes. The buildings within the fort are a commandant's and commissioner's house. The magazine of stores; corps de guard; two barracks; those occupy ing the square within the gorges of the bastion are a powder- house; a bake-house; a prison, in the lower floor, of which are four dungeons, and in the upper story, two rooms ; and an out house belonging to the commandant. The commandant's house is thirty-two yards long, and ten broad, and contains a kitchen, a dining-room, a bed-chamber, one small room, five closets for servants, and a cellar. The commissioner's house, now occupied by officers, is built on the same line as this, and its proportions and the distribution of its apartments are the same. Opposite 30 MY OWN TIMES. these are the store-house, and the guard-house. They are each thirty yards long and eight broad. The former consists of two large store-rooms, under which there is a large vaulted-cellar, a large room, a bed-chamber, and a closet for the store -keeper; the latter a soldier's and officer's guard-room, a bed-chamber, a closet for the chaplain, and artillery store-room. The lines of the barracks have never been finished ; they at present consist of two rooms each for officers, and three for soldiers ; they are each twenty feet square, and have betwixt them a small passage. There are fine spacious lofts over eacli building, which reach from end to end; these are made use of for two large regi mental stores, working and entrenching tools, etc. It is gen erally believed, this is the most convenient and best built fort in North America." The above is the description of the fort after its being rebuilt with solid rock. This stone fortification, described by Captain Pitman, presents no incongruity, or misshapen appearance, that could for a moment make the impression that it was an addition to any other building. All the circumstances make it evident that the last-named fort was erected new entirely, and only retained the name and site of the previous wooden building. St. Ange de Belle Rive succeeded the Chevaher Macarty in the command of Fort Chartres, and retained possession of the fort and country until the arrival of Captain Sterling, of the British army. St. Ange was the last commandant of Fort Chartres under the French Government Although the treaty was signed in the year 1763, yet the country was not transferred to the British authority until the 17th of July, 1765, and then the commandant, St. Ange, and his troops left Fort Chartres and took possession of the present site of St. Louis, in Upper Louisiana. The celebrated La Clede, the founder of St. Louis, Missouri, reached Fort Chartres in the fall of the year 1763, from New Orleans, with his large boat, and stored his goods in the fort until early spring. He left the fortress and arrived at the site of the present St. Louis in February, 1764. The British authorities, under Captain Stirhng, assumed the government of Fort Chartres and the country. Captain Stirling died in six months after he took possession of the fort, and the commandant at St. Louis, St. Ange, came back to Fort Chartres and assumed the command of the country until the successor of Captain Stirling arrived at the fort. This act of St. Ange was performed for the kindness he entertained for the people of lUi nois, that the country should not remain without an organized government Major Frazier, sometimes known as Farmer, assumed the command of the fort after the death of Captain Stirling, and remained in command until Colonel Reed arrived and took pes- MY OWN TIMES. 3I session. History presents Colonel Reed as a tyrant, and an unworthy commandant of the country. The next British officer who was in the command of the country was Colonel Wilkins. He reached Kaskaskia, Sth September, 1768, and assumed com mand of the country. By authority of General Gage, Colonel Wilkins, on the 6th December, 1768, established a court of common-law, to be composed of seven judges; who held their sessions monthly at Fort Chartres. Colonel Wilkins made grants of land to the citizens, and exercised many other acts of sovereignty over the country. Charlevoix, the missionary traveller, stated, in the year 172 1, that the river was within a musket shot of the fort, and it seems the rivpr was encroaching on the bank near Fort Chartres from the time that fortress, in 1718, commenced its existence, and until the waters destroyed it in the year 1772. In the year 1724, judging by the complaints of the citizens of Kaskaskia to the government of France, a great flood of the Mississippi swept over the American Bottom, and no doubt washed the banks of the river near the fort It is stated that in 1756, the fort was half a mile from the river; but the bank of the river next it was continually wearing off, and falling in the river. A sand-bar was formed in the river opposite the fortifi cation, by which the water was violently dashed against the bank next the fort. This sand-bar grew large, and now is known as the Fort Chartres Island. The water between the fort and Island was at first fordable, but afterwards it became forty feet deep. In 1766, the river was within eighty yards of the fortress. The English Government of the country abandoned Fort Chartres at the downfall of the fort, and established its author ity at Fort Gage, on the bluff east of Kaskaskia. I examined this fort about thirty years after it was aban doned; and it is strange! the large trees could grow in that short time which I saw in the houses, and within the walls of the fortification in many places. Vines and brush-wood grew round many parts of the walls and much of the surface of the fort. The south and east walls, when I first saw them, were remaining in their original shape, and they seemed to be about fifteen feet high, and were constructed to insure strength and durability. The gate-way was opened and the jams and cornices were of nicely cut rock. The powder-magazine, as it was called, was constructed in the most substantial manner. In 1820, D. Beck, the author of a Gazetteer of Illinois and Missouri, examined and measured the exterior walls. They are 1447 feet around, and were, he states, fifteen feet high in certain places. The area of the fort is about four acres. Comparing together the measurement of Captain Pitman and D. Beck, it 32 MY OWN TIMES. will be seen that about fifty-six feet wide of the entire west front of the fortification, with one side-wall, had been swept into the river. This magnificent fortress, built at so much expense, in the wilderness of America, and at the same time so strong and so durable, has been declining for the last eighty odd years, and at this day, presents only a large pile of ruins. I visited this fort on the loth October, 1854, and found it a pile of mouldering ruins. Its fallen and deplorable condition forcibly reminded me of Volney's beautiful invocation to the tombs. "Hail ye solitary ruins, ye sacred tombs and silent walls. 'Tis to you, my soul enrapt in meditation pours forth its prayer. * * * Xo me ye unfold the sublimest charms of contemplation and sentiment, and offer to my senses the luxury of a thousand delicious and enchanting thoughts." And resembling the ruins of Palmira, mentioned by the French traveller, in which dwelt some poor Arabian peasant; so Fort Chartres in its decay contains an humble log-cabin " built within its crumbling walls." In places, the walls of this fort are torn away almost even "with the surface, and will all, I presume, be taken away in a few years. Even the site of this fort, like Troy and Babylon, per haps, cannot be discovered in a few years. Thus perish the works of man. There is nothing durable but God and Nature. CHAPTER XI. Fort Jefferson. — Its History. — Sketch of Captain Piggot's Hfe. — Sick ness of the Garrison. — Indian Assaults. — Heroic Defence. — Aban donment of the Fort — Piggot's Fort — The Ferry opposite St Louis, Missouri. Although Fort Jefferson was established before MY OWN TIMES, yet so many incidents arising out of the establishment of this fort, extending into MY OWN TIMES, and so many of the pioneers of Illinois being connected with it, that I deem it proper, in the scope of my work, to give some sketches of the history of the fort. In 1 78 1, the government of Virginia, the great statesman, Thomas Jefferson, being governor, knew that the Spanish Crown pretended to have some claim on the country east of the Mississippi, below the mouth of the Ohio; and to counteract this claim, ordered General George Rogers Clark to erect a fort on the east side of the Mississippi, on the first eligible point below the mouth of the Ohio. General Clark, with his accustomed foresight and extraordi nary energy, levied a considerable number of citizen -soldiers,, MY OWN TIMES. 33 and proceeded from Kaskaskia to the high land, known at this ¦day as MdlJ^field's Creek, five miles below the mouth of the Ohio. Here, on the east side of the Mississippi, he erected a fort, and c^-Ued it Jefferson, in honor of the then governor of Virginia. It was neglected to obtain the consent of the In dians, for the erection of the fort, as the governor of Virginia had requested. This neglect proved to be a great calamity. Clark encouraged immigration to the fort, and promised the settlers lands. Captain Piggot and many others followed his .standard. The fort being established, General Clark was called away to the frontiers of Kentucky, and left the fort for its protection in the hands of Captain James Piggot, and the soldiers and citi- :zens under him. Captain Piggot was a native of Connecticut, and was engaged in the privateering service in the Revolutionary War. He was in danger of assassination by the enemy in his native State, and emigrated to Westmoreland County, Pennsylvania. He was appointed captain of a company in the Revolution by the Legislature of his adopted State, and served under Generals St. Clair and Washington. He was in the battles of Brandy- wine, Saratoga, and marched to Canada. By severe marches, and hard service, his health was impaired so that he was forced to resign his captaincy, and, withAis family, he left his residence in Westmoreland County, and came West with General Clark. Several families settled in the vicinity of Fort Jefferson, and some in it; but all attempted to cultivate the soil to some extent for a living. The Chickasaw and Chocktaw Indians became angry for the encroachments of the whites, and in August, 178 1, commenced an attack on the settlements around the fort. The whole num ber of warriors must have been ten or twelve hundred, headed by the celebrated Scotchman, Calbert, whose posterity figured as half-breeds. These tribes commenced hostilities on the set tlements around Fort Jefferson. The Indians came first in small parties, which saved many of the inhabitants. If they had reached the settlement in a body, the whole white popula tion outside of the fort would have been destroyed. As soon as the preparation for the attack of the Indians on the fort was certainly known, a trusty messenger was dispatched to the falls of the Ohio, as it was called at that day, and for years afterwards, for more provisions and ammunition. If sup port did not arrive in time, the small settlements and garrison would be destroyed, and it was extremely uncertain if succor would reach the fort in time. The ^ttlement and fort were in the greatest distress; almost starving, no ammunition, and such great distance from the set tlements at Kaskaskia and the Falls. 34 MY OWN TIMES. The first parties of Indians killed many of the inhabitants before they could be moved to the fort, and ther' was great danger and distress in marching them into the fort. Also, the sickness prevailed to such extent, that more than- half were down sick at the time The famine was so distressing that it was said they had to eat the pumpkins as soon as the blossoms fell off the vines. This Indian marauding and murdering pri vate persons and families lasted almost two weeks before the main army of Indian warriors reached the fort The soldiers aided and received in the fort all the white population that could be moved. The whole family of Mr. Music, exoept him self, was killed, and inhumanly butchered by the enemy. Many other persons were also killed. In the skirmishes, a white man was taken prisoner, who was compelled, to save his life, to- report the true state of the garrison. This information added fury to the already heated passions of the savages. After the arrival of the warriors, with Calbert at their head, they besieged the fort for six days and nights. During this time, no one can describe the misery and distress the garrison was doomed to suffer. The water had almost given out The river was falling fast, and the water in the wails sunk with the river. Scarcely any provisions remained, and the sickness raged so in the fort that many could not be stirred from the beds.. The wife of Captain Piggot afid some others, died in the fort,, and were buried inside of the walls while the Indians beseiged the outside. If no relief came, the garrison would inevitably fall into the hands of the Indians and be murdered. It was argued by the Indians with the white prisoner, that if he told the truth they would spare his life. He told them truly, that more than half in the fort were sick — that each man had not more than three rounds of ammunition, and that scarcely any provisions were in the garrison. On receiving this informa tion, the whole Indian army retired about two miles to hold a council. They sent back Calbert and three Chiefs with a flag of truce to the fort. When the whites discovered the white flag, they sent out Captain Piggot, Mr. Owens, and one other man, to meet the Indian delegation. This was done for fear the enemy would know the desperate condition of the fort. The parley was con ducted under the range of the guns of the garrison. Calbert informed them that they were sent to demand a surrender -of the fort at discretion ; that they knew the defenseless condition of the fort, and to surrender it might save much bloodshed. He further said: that they had sent a great force of warriors up- the river to intercept the succor for which the whites had sent a messenger. This the prisoner had told them. Calbert promised he would do his best to save the lives of the prisoners, all if th'ey would surrender, except a few whom the Indians had de- MY OWN TIMES. 35 termined to kill. He said, the Indians are pressing for the spoils, and would not wait long. He gave the garrison one hour for a decision. On receiving this information, the garrison had an awful and gloomy scene presented to them. One person exclaimed, "Great God direct tis what to do in this awful crisis!" After mature deliberation, Piggot and the other delegates were instructed to say, that nothing would be said as to the information received from the prisoner. If we deny his state ments you may kill him — ^we cannot confide in your promises to protect us; but we will promise, if the Indians will leave the country, the garrison will abandon the fort and country as soon as possible. Calbert agreed to submit this proposition in coun cil to the warriors. But on retiring, Mr. Music, whose family was murdered, and another man shot at Calbert, and a ball wounded him. This outrage was greatly condemned by the garrison, and the two transgressors were taken into custody. The wound of Calbert was dressed, and he guarded safely to the Indians. The warriors remained long in council, and by a kind Provi dential act, the long-wished for succor did arrive in safety from the "Falls." The Indians had struck the river too high up, and thereby the boat with the supplies escaped. The provisions and men were hurried into the fort, and preparations were made to resist a night-attack by the warriors. Every preparation that could be made for the defence of the fort was accomplished. The sick and small children were placed out of the way of the combatants, and all the women and children of any size were instructed in the art of defence. The warriors, shortly after dark, thought they could steal on the fort and capture it; but when they were frustrated, they, with hideous yells and loud savage demonstrations, assaulted the garrison and attempted to storm it. The cannon had been placed in proper position to rake the walls, and when the warriors mounted the ramparts, the cannon swept them off in heaps. The enemy kept up a stream of fire from their rifles on the garrison, which did not much execution. In this manner the battle raged for hours; but at last the enemy were forced to recoil, and withdraw from the deadly cannon of the fort. Calbert and other Chiefs again urged the warriors to the charge, but the same result to retire was forced on them again. Men and women at that day were soldiers by instinct It seemed they could not be otherwise. The greatest danger was for fear the fort would be set on fire. A large dauntless Indian, painted for the occasion, by some means got on top of one of the block-houses, and was applying fire to the roof A white soldier, of equal courage, went out of the block-house and shot the Indian as he was blowing the fije to the building. The Indian fell dead on the outside of the fort, and was packed off by his comrades. 36 MY OWN TIMES. After a long and arduous battle, the Indians withdrew from the fort. They were satisfied ; the Indians had arrived at the garrison and they could not storm it. They packed off all the dead and wounded. Many were killed and wounded of the Indians, as much blood was discovered in the morning around the fort. Several of the whites were also wounded, but none mortally. This was one of the most difeperate assaults made by the Indians in the West, on a garrison so weak and dis tressed and defenseless. The whites were rejoiced at their success, and made prepara tions to abandon the premises with all convenient speed. The citizen -soldiers at Fort Jefferson all abandoned the fort; and some wended their way to Kaskaskia, and others to the Falls. Captain Piggot, with many of his brave companions, arrived at Kaskaskia and remained there some years. This flood of brave and energetic immigrants, so early as the year 1781, was the first considerable acquisition of American population Illinois received. Many of the most worthy and re spectable families of Illinois can trace back their lineage to this illustrious and noble ancestry, and can say, with pride and honor, that my forefathers fought in the Revolution to conquer the valley of the Mississippi. About the year 1783, Captain Piggot estabhshed a fort not far from the bluff in the American Bottom, west of the present town of Columbia, in Monroe County, which was called Piggot's Fort, or the fort of the grand Risseau. This was the largest fortification erected by the Americans in Illinois, and at that day, was well defended with cannon and small. arms. In 1790 sometime, Captain Piggot and forty-five other inhabitants at this fort, called the Big Run in English, signed a petition to Governor St. Clair, praying for grants of land to the settlers. It is stated in that petition, that there were seventeen families in the fort I presume it was on this petition that the act of Congress was passed, granting to every settler on the public land in Illinois, four hundred acres, and a militia donation of a hundred acres to each man enrolled in the militia service of that year. Governor St. Clair knew the character of Captain Piggot in the army of the Revolution, and appointed him the presiding judge of the court of St Clair County. Captain Piggot in the year 1795, estabhshed the first ferry across the Mississippi, opposite St. Louis, Missouri, known now as Wiggin's Ferry ; and Governor Tradeau, of Louisiana, gave him license for a ferry, and to land on the west bank of the river in St. Louis, with the privilege to collect the ferriage. He died at the ferry, opposite St. Louis, in the year 1799, after hav ing spent an active and eventful life in the Revolution, and in the conquest and the early settlement of the West. MY OWN Times. 37 CHAPTER XII. The French in 1800. — A Different Population. — Devout Christians. — A Happy People. — Observance of the Sabbath. — Fond of Dancing. — Dress. — Taste for the Fashions. — No Ambition for Athletic Sports. The immigrants of the French villages being from different sections of the continent, made some difference in the popula tion. Kaskaskia and Prairie du Rocher were mostly colonized from Mobile and New Orleans, and Cahokia from Canada. The language possessed a shade of difference, as well as their habits. In the first-named village, the inhabitants partook of the sunny South, more than those who settled in Cahokia from Canada. A shade more of relaxation, gaiety, hilarity, and dancing, prevailed in Kaska.skia and Prairie du Rocher than in Cahokia. It may be, the immigrants from France to the north and south of the continent of North America, may have been from different provinces of the mother-country, which made the difference above mentioned in the early French pioneers of Illinois. The masses of the French were an innocent and happy people. They were devotedly attached to the Roman Catholic Church, and had lived for many generations in strict obedience to the Christian principles taught by that Church. They were removed from the corruption of large cities, and enjoyed an isolated position in the interior of North America. In a century before 1800, they were enabled to solve the problem: that neither wealth, nor splendid possessions, nor an extraor dinary degree of ambition, nor energy, ever made a people happy. These people resided more than a thouspind miles from any other colony, and were strangers to wealth or poverty; but the Christian virtues governed their hearts, and they were happy. One virtue among others was held in high estimation, and religiously observed. Chastity with the Creoles was a sine qua non, and a spurious offspring was almost unknown among them. It is the immutable decree to man from the Throne itself, that in proportion to the introduction of sin and guilt into the heart, in the same proportion happiness abandons the person. The early French were forced to practise that excellent in junction in the Lord's prayer, "lead us not into temptation." This was a negative lever, if such can exist, in their humble and innocent happiness. Another principle these French pioneers established, that in nocent gaiety, recreation, and amusement are compatible with religion and happiness. These people also observed the Sab- 38 MY OWN TIMES. bath-day in a different manner than many other religious sects do. The proper observance of the Sabbath is, like many other religious duties, difficult to attain. To keep the Sabbath-day holy is just and right; but the performance of the duty is the difficulty. For a thousand years past, these Catholic French, and their ancestors in Europe, made the Sabbath% day of religion, rest, recreation, and innocent amusement. The Creoles of Illinois observed the custom in this respect, and were happy. Every in dividual, and every religious denomination, must observe the Sabbath, like other religious duties, in that manner that is dic tated by the conscience. On this subject, in practice there can not be any exact form laid down by which human actions can be governed. But one thing is certain: that the institution of the Sabbath, and its proper observance, is one of the greatest elements of human happiness, and an individual or nation that does not observe the command to keep holy the Sabbath-day, according to their own conscience, is on the road to misery and ruin. The French generally, and the early Creoles particularly, were passionately fond of dancing. The gay and merry dispo sition of the French, adopted this mode of social amusement. To enjoy the dancing-saloon was almost a passion among the early French, and for the enjoyment of which they made many efforts. No people ever conducted the ballroom with more propriety than they did. Decorum and punctilious manners were enforced by public opinion. No liquor, cigars, or loud blustering remarks were tolerated in their dancing assemblies. All classes, ages, and degrees assembled together, and made one large family in these baUrooms. The aged would at times dance; but they performed a higher duty. The discreet and aged females kept an eye sharp and searching over the giddy youth. Frequently the priest attended the early part of the evening in the balls, and saw that the innocent and proper observance of just principles be the order of the party. My observation leads me to this conclusion on dancing: that when this amusement is kept in the proper channel of inno cence and purity, clear of extravagance of all descriptions, that it is a harmless and innocent amusement and might be enjoyed compatibly with religion, or any other duties of life. The same taste of the French to enjoy the dance, made them pay much attention to their dress. No people, with the same humble means, made a better display in their dress than the Creoles did. The first shade of a new fashion from New Or leans — which was the Paris of fashions to Illinois — was caught up here by the females, and displayed at their mast-heads. The French resided in villages, and a continual sluice of the voluble 'Creole language would reach every female in the town on the subject of the new fashions. MY OWN TIMES. 39 It may be remarked, in connection with this subject, that Avhen the English possessed the country in 1765, most of the wealthy inhabitants left Illinois, and settled on the west side of of the Mississippi. On this account the fashions frequently reached Illinois from Miser and Pain Court, the names by which Ste. Genevieve and St. Louis were called in early times. The working and voyaging dress of the French masses was simple and primitive. The French were hke the hlies of the valley, they neither spun nor wove any of their clothing, but purchased it from the merchants. The white blanket -coat, Icnown as the ca.pot, was the universal and eternal coat for the winter with the masses. A cape was made to it, that could be raised over the head in cold weather. In the house, and in good weather, it hung behind, a cape to the blanket- coat. The reason I know these coats so well is: that I have worn many in my youth, and a working-man never wore a better garment. Dressed deer-skin and blue cloth were worn commonly in the winter for pantaloons. The blue hand kerchief, and the deer-skin modcasins, covered the head and feet generally of the French Creoles. In 1800, scarcely a man thought himself clothed, unless he had a belt tied around his blanket-coat; and it was hung on one side the dressed skin of a polecat filled with tobacco, pipe, flint, and steel. On the other side was fastened, under the belt, the butcher-knife. A Creole in this dress felt -a httle hke Tam o' Shanter filled with usque baugh, "he could face the devil." Checked cahco-shirts were then common ; but in winter, flannel was frequently worn ' by the voyagers and others. In the summer, the laboring -men and the voyagers often took their shirts off in hard work and hot weather, and turned out the naked back to the air and sun. I have conversed with them on this custom. They said, their shirts would be dry from the perspiration, at night, to put on them. The habits of labor and energy with the French were moder ate. Their energy or ambition never urged them to more than an humble and competent support. To hoard up wealth was not found written in their hearts, and very few practised it They were a temperate, moral people. They very seldom in dulged in drinking Hquor. They were at times rather intem perate in smoking and dancing; but seldom indulged in either to excess at the same time or place. ^ All classes observed a strict morality against hunting or fish ing on the Sabbath; but they played cards for amusement often on the Sabbath. This they considered one of the inno cent pastimes that was not prohibited to a Christian. They had no taste for either horse-racing or foot-racing, wrestling, jumping, or the like; and did not often indulge in these sports. Shooting fowls on the wing, and breaking wild horses afforded the French considerable amusement. 40 MY OWN TIMES. CHAPTER XIII. The Americans in 1800, and some years thereafter. — Emigrants from the South and West. — Exalted Notions of Freedom and Indepen dence. — Self-Reliance. — Different Employments. — Raising Cabins. — Family in the House the same day it was Raised. — Frolics.— Amuse ments.— Dancing. — Running for the Bottle at a Weddinai.^The Dress of the People. — Factory Goods came to Illinois in 1816 and 1818. The Americans were almost entirely emigrants from the Western States: Tennessee, Kentucky, Virginia, and some from Pennsylvania and Maryland, and the manners and cus toms of those States were represented in Illinois by the pio neers. A New-England emigrant was not common at that day. Although the pioneers knew little and cared less about literature, yet, they entertainbd just and sound principles of liberty. No people delighted in the free and full enjoyment of a free government more than they did. This passion for free dom made strong impressions on them, and governed their actions and conduct to some extent, in almost everything. This idea of liberty gave them a personal independence, and confidence in themselves that marked their actions through life This notion of excessive independence frequently brought them into conflicts and personal combats with each other. Bloody noses and black-eyes were the results. It also gave them a trait of character, that made them believe they were adequate and competent to any emergency, and frequently commenced enterprises above their power to accomplish. The nature and condition of the country forced on the pio neers intelligence and enterprise. It enabled them to with stand the hardships and privations of the settlement of a new country and the shocks of war itself The necessities of the occasion often forced the backwoods'- people into singular and different employments and conditions- of life. Sometimes they were conipelled to act as mechanics, to make their ploughs, harness, and other farming implements. Also, to tan their leather. At times they were forced to hunt game to sustain^.their families. In war, when they were called on to defend the frontiers, they frequently unhitched their horses from the plow, mounted them, and appeared with their guns, ready and willing to march to any part of the globe to chastise the Indians. When they needed meal, and the mills were dry, they pounded the corn in mortars into meal, or eat potatoes, if they were grown, without bread. MY OWN TIMES. 41 The pioneers were exceedingly kind and friendly when a log- cabin was to be raised. Asked or not they gathered together, and enjoyed a backwoods'-frolic in putting it up. At early pioneer -times, with all classes and ranks, dancing was the leading amusement For many miles around, male and female assembled and danced the whole, night The forms of the old dance were different than at present. Jigs and four- handed reels were the most common. A part of the rural sport in pioneer times enjoyed at a wed ding, was running for the bottle. The bride and the bride groom had parties volunteer to run for the stake. A bottle was filled with whiskey, and embellished with ribbons. This was held by the judges, and all that pleased entered the horses to run for the bottle. A mile, or more, was the distance. when it was won, it was presented, with much backwoods' taste and politeness, to the party by whom the victory was achieved. In many settlements, it required every man in it to be pre sent at a "house-raising," or otherwise the labor was too heavy. The hands on the ground handed up the logs, and the cabin was generally covered before night. The clapboards to cover the house were split out of large trees, and placed on round poles, called "ribs," and weight- poles were laid on the boards to secure them to their places. Not a nail, or any iron of any sort, hinge, or any thing of iron, was seen about the house. Often the imigrant and family lived in a camp until his- house was up and covered. His neighbors frequently cut the door out in the house the same day, so that th^ family might move into it, out of the camp, the same day the cabin was- raised. Old and young indulged in much sport and amusement at these "house-raisings." It was, in fact sport to raise these cabins. I was always delighted to know of a "raising," and generally present. I never possessed the least mechanical talent, and, therefore, never raised a corner; but as an axeman,, I split clapboards or tlffe like. The amusements occurred generally when the axemen were notching .down the corners. The young ones were jumping, wrestling, or running foot-races. Leap-frog was often indulged in by old and young. Sometimes, shooting at marks was prac tised. Many carried their guns to these "raisings." It was often amusing to hear a Kentuckian relate his ad-^ ventures on flat-boats, "the old Broad Horn," to New Orieans. At times a bottle, called "Black Betty," filled with Mononga- hela whiskey, would make its appearance at these "house- raisings," and then was told the "hair-breadth escapes" and adventures of the pioneers. Sometimes a Kentucky-boatman appeared at these frohcs. 42 MY OWN TIMES. Perhaps he had been one of those celebrated characters known on the western rivers, as "half- horse, half-aligator, and tipped with the snapping- turtle." One story from him will be pre sented. He said he landed his boat on a dark night at Louis- viUe, and back of the town, the negroes had a corn-shucking. Many darkies were present and the corn -heap was divided. Captains of the blacks were selected, and the hands divided. Rails were put across the corn-pile for a division, and each party had his half of the pile to husk. A race was commenced in this manner, that became frequently very exciting with the blacks, and often with the whites also, under this system. The boatmen wanted a frolic, and filled their hunting-shirts, when belted around them, with round stones, picked up at the edge of the Ohio River.^ In the dark, the boatmen slipped up near the darkies, who were singing and shucking the corn, and would throw a rock at the black crowd, when the darkies could not see the rock, or whence it came. Often the blood came trinkling from the faces of the Africans, and they would pre sume it was an ear of corn thrown by the opposite contending party. At the same time, another boatman would throw an other rock at the other party. The blacks would swear at each other, and make tremendous threats. Before they closed their threats, another rock from a boatman would strike another darky; so that in a short time the whole negro assembly were in a general battle- royal, and the boatmen hid enjoying the sport. The overseers, and other whites present, were often troubled much to quiet these negro-battles. I saw in the moonlight, at one of these pioneer-gatherings, a wild and dangerous frolic played off, that might have killed two men. At the top of the hill, where the house of my father stood, there were some large gums filled with wet ashes, after the ley had been run off. The gums were heavy — some had been rolled down the hill, and a talented wild backwoodsman, James Hughes, got two men, who were a little excited with the Mo- nongahela, to roll down the hill one of these gums. As they got the gum in pretty fast motion down the hill, Hughes came behind them, and pushed them both over the rolling gum. It was very large, and rolled over one of the men, and the other scuffled out at one end, it rolling over only his feet and legs. The man the gum rolled over was considerably hurt. His head and body were much bruised. It made a great laugh and much sport for the boosy party. The pioneer, James Hughes, who played this trick in rolling the gums, was an excellent man of sound judgment and strict integrity. Another trick was practised on some persons at another backwoods'-frolic, which caused some bruised feet. MY OWN TIMES. 43 It was a fashion at these meetings, and under the influence of hquor, to kick one another's hats. These hats were gener ally wool and frequently worn for years; so that they were not much injured by the operation. Hughes saw some pots in the shade of the house, and put hats over them. Then he got a few of those loving the sport of kicking, to move their play in the neighborhood of the covered pots. They kicked the hats on the pots, to the great injury of their toes. This trick made great merriment. The common dress of the American pioneer was very similar. Home-made wool -hats were the common wear. Fur -hats were not common, and scarcely a boot was seen. The cover ing of the feet in the winter was mostly moccasins made of deer-skin, and shoe-packs of tanned leather. Some wore shoes, but not common in very early times. In the summer, the greater portion of the young people, male and female, and many of the old, went barefooted. The substantial and uni versal outside wear was the blue linsey hunting-shirt This is an excellent garment and I never have felt so happy and healthy since I laid it off. It is made with wide sleeves, open before, with ample size, so as to envelope the body with its folds, almost twice around. Sometimes it has a large cape, which answers well to save the shoulders from the rain. A belt is mostly used, to keep the garment close and neat around the person, and nevertheless, there is nothing tight in it to hamper the body. It is often fringed, and at times the fringe is com posed of red, and other gay colors. The belt frequently is sewed to the hunting-shirt At times, a belt of leather with a buckle sewed to one end is used. Many pioneers wore the white blanket-coats in the winter. They are, as well as the hunting-shirt, an excellent garment. They are made loose, and a cap or a cape to turn over the head in extreme cold weather. I have worn them almost every winter, when I was young. The vest was mostly made of striped linsey. The colors were made often with alum, copperas, and madder, boiled with the bark of trees, in such manner and proportions as the old ladies prescribed. The shirts worn by the Americans were generally home-made of flax and cotton-material. Some voyagers and hunters among the Americans wore calico and checked shirts, but not common. The flax and cotton were raised at home, and manufactured into shirts. Looms and flaxrbreaks were at that day quite common, and cotton-gins made of wooden rollers. In the colonies of the American Bottom, and the New De sign, a considerable number of sheep were raised, which fur nished the wool used at that day. The pantaloons of the masses were generally made of deer skins and linsey. Course blue cloth was at times made into 44 MY OWN TIMES. pantaloons. At that day, the factory-goods did not exist. The factory-goods, from New England and Kentucky, reached Illinois about 1818, and then looms, cotton, etc., disappeared — spinning also ceased then. Almost every pioneer had a rifle and carried it almost wherever he went. * I have often seen many rifles stacked away outside of the house of worship, while the congregation were within attend ing the service. Almost everybody was then a hunter, and they might see a deer on Sunday as well as on other days. Linsey, neat and fine, manufactured at home, composed gen erally the outside garments of the females as well as the males, in the olden times. The ladies had the linsey colored and wove to suit their fancy, which made a neat and comfortable clothing for winter. The youngsters, females as well as males, did not always wear covering on their feet, except at meeting or dances. A bonnet, composed of calico, or some gayly-checked goods, was worn on the head when they were in the open air. Jew elry on the pioneer-ladies was uncommon. A gold ring was an ornament not often seen. CHAPTER XIV. The Progress of the Country for five years from 1800. — Sickness. — "Seasoning" of Emigrants. — Settlements, Ridge Prairie. — Goshen. — Name of Goshen. — Blair on the Site of Belleville. — Settlements East and South-West of Belleville. — Colonies in Horse Prairie, East of Kaskaskia. — The French Colonies.— Pioneer-Squatters on the Public Lands.^Murders of the Indians. — New Mill. — Shawneetown. — Sa line Purchased by the Indians. — Shawneetown Commenced. — Mr. Bell Leased the Saline. — Big Bay. — Daniel's and Wood-River Settle ments Commenced. — Wilderness Yields to Improvements. — Popu lation. During this period, Illinois was isolated from the States, and was a remote, weak, and desolate colony. The population and improvements increased slowly. The frontiers were gradur ally enlarged. Additions were made to the various colonies, and the country commencect to be known more thoroughly throughout the Western States. The idea prevailed at that day, that Illinois was "a graveyard," which retarded its settle ment. Only those settled in it whose judgment overcame the prejudice that was raised against the health of the country. And, in fact, the country was at that day much more severely visited by the bilious diseases than at present. The vegetation was stronger and more abundant then than at present, and the MY OWN TIMES. 45 inhabitants were more exposed then than they are at this time. The seasoning, as it was called, then was almost certain to visit every "imigrant the first or the second year after his arrival in the country. In 1802, the settlements of the Ridge Prairie, north of Belle ville, and the Goshen settlement, were formed. The last- named colony embraced about the present limits of Madison County. The large, moral, and worthy family of the Gilhams and connections, formed a great portion of the Goshen settle ment. The Whiteside family and connections, also large and respectable, located in the same colony. The leading pioneers and patriarchs of this settlement were Samuel Judy; five aged and respectable brothers, Thomas, John, William, James, and Isaac Gilham; William B., Samuel, Joel, and others of the Whiteside family ; these, together with others too numerous to mention, laid the foundation of the present county of Madison in and about the time above mentioned. The name of Goshen was given to this locality of Illinois by the Rev. David Badgley — he and others visited it in 1801, and gave it the name of Goshen. About the same year, the Lemens, Ogles, Badgleys, Kinney, Whitesides, Phillips, Riggs, Varner, Redman, Stout PuUiam, and others, formed the colony situated north and east^oTThe present city of Belleville. George Blair, this year, settled on the site of the present city of Belleville, and his cornfield then occupied the public square of this city. Eyeman, Stookey, Miller, Teter, and others, formed the colony a few miles south-west of Belleville. All these settlements were included in the county of St. Clair. In Randolph County, the settlements increased in the Horse Prairie, on the Kaskaskia River, and near Levens' Mill, on Horse Creek. The founders of these colonies were Levens, Teter, PuUiam, Grovenor, Going, and others. Beaird, Fulton, Huggins, McCullough, Bilderback, Roberts, Lively, and a few others, were added to the colony east of Kaskaskia, where my father resided. In this period, the French population might have increased some few, and the improvement made by them may have been some httle enlarged — the natural increase was nearly all the accession. The imigrants from Canada numbered about as many as left the country and died in the mountains and on the rivers. The population of Illinois within two years may have in creased some few hundreds, but scarcely a thousand souls in all. It must be recollected that a great portion of these new settlements above mentioned were formed by inhabitants al ready residing in the country, and not entirely by immigrants. 46 MY OWN TIMES. The improvements of farms kept about equal pace with the increase and extension of the settlements. Almost every in habitant was a farmer, and made some improvements, mostly on the public domain. At this early day, the public lands were not surveyed or in market so that the most of the pioneers were squatters on the government lands. A few only had purchased "floating rights," and others pa tented lands, and were settled on them. The ancient inhabi tants of Illinois had grants made to them of their lands occu pied at the time, and some of these lands were purchased by the immigrants who lived on them; but the other improve ments, besides the farms, were not advanced at all. A few mills might have been erected, but no school-houses or church edifices were built new in the country. Some few schools at this day existed in the old colonies, but none in the new settlements. In connection with the settlement of Goshen, a blood-thirsty murder was committed in 1802. Turkey Foot, a savage chief of the Pottawatomies, and a few of his warriors, murdered Alex ander Dennis and John Vanmeter, at the foot of the bluff, four miles south-west of the present town of Edwardsville. This was a wanton and barbarous murder of two ^ood citizens, in time of peace and without provocation. The colony was feeble and unprepared to pursue the Indians, and they escaped with impunity. Gov. Harrison made a requi sition on the nation to give up the murderers: but none were surrendered, and the matter dropped. An unprovoked mur der, committed by the Indians, occurred in 1805, in the present county of Gallatin. Mr. Duff was killed near the Island Ripple in the Saline Creek, and he was buried near the old salt-spring. It was supposed the Indians were hired to commit the murder. Here rested the murder of Duff. Tate and Singleton, this year, 1802, erected a good water- mill on the Fountain Creek, a few miles north-west of the pre sent town of Waterloo. This mill did a good business for sev eral years : but is abandoned at this time. About this period, General Edgar made salt at his saline at the bluff in the pre sent county of Monroe, nearly opposite Waterloo. In this year, Michiel Sprinkle, a gunsmith, was the first' white man who resided in Shawneetown, situated on the Ohio River, Gallatin County. The Indians requested Governor Harrison to permit him to reside with them to repair their guns. The next settler was La Boissiere, a Frenchman. He traded with the Indians, fished, and kept an "humble ferry" on the Ohio, to cross the citizens to and from the Ohio salt works, which were back about twelve miles. This was the nucleus around which Shawneetown commenced, in 1802. Shawneetown was occupied by a village of the Shawnee In- MY OWN TIMES. 47 dians, for many ages, and it was the place where Major Crog- han, the English officer, camped in his explorations of the country, in 1765. He had a battle there with the Indians. When this site was first occupied, in modern times, it was covered with a dense canebrake, and the squatters in it were located on the public lands. The old salt- spring, and its environs, situated about twelve miles north-west of Shawneetown, attracted the attention of the imigrants about this time, and around it commenced a colony. This settlement increased and extended in every direction, until a sparse colony was formed around the salt-works and Shawnee town, before the year 1805. In 1803, Governor Harrison purchased of the Indians the salt-works, and some land around them. The same year, Cap tain Bell, of Lexington, Kentucky, leased the saline, which caused the imigration to this section of Illinois. On Big-Bay Creek, not far from the Ohio River, on or before 1805, several families had permanently settled. These colonies were weak, and surrounded with . Indians, yet they sustained themselves, and have now the honor to be numbered in the front ranks of the pioneers of Southepn Illinois. On the old Fort Massacre road to Kaskaskia, where it cross ed Big Muddy River, a settlement was made in 1804; and a few miles east, on the same road, were the settlements of Phelps and Daniels, which were commenced some short time, and sustained themselves. Also, on Grand Pierre Creek, above the present Golconda, in Pope County, settlements comhienced in 1805, and continued, although much embarrassed at the time. On Big Muddy, in the present county of Jackson, two families, Griggs and Noble, were the first to plant civihzation in that locality. In 1804, Wood River settlement north of Goshen, was estab lished by the Pruitts and Stocktons, Jones, Rattans, and others, and the Six-Mile Prairie, in the present county of Madison, was increased by the families of Cummins, Gilham, Carpenter, Waddle, and others, considerably. The Ridge Prairie, in Madison and St. Clair Counties, received many permanent set tlers before 1805. Barney Bone, Charles Wakefield, A. Bank- son, and perhaps some others, made the first settlement east of Silver Creek, in St. Clair County, in the spring of 1804. This location was made on the high land, east of the creek and south of the present road from Belleville to Hanover. Another set tlement was formed a few miles north of the present town of Lebanon, by Bradsby, Galbreath, and others, about this same time. The next year, considerable settlements were made to ward the mouth of Silver Creek and on the Kaskaskia River-— Jordan, Thomas, and others, located this year, 1805, near Sil ver Creek, south-east of Shiloah. 48 MY OWN TIMES. The Frencji villages in St. Clair County, known as "the French and Quentine villages," were commenced in 1805, and prospered for some years considerably. The Turkey Hill colony, which had been established by the -venerable patriarch, William Scott in the year 1787, also in creased its frontiers to some extent about this time. The settle ment south-west of the present city of Belleville also enlarged its dimensions. In the year 1805, about fifteen families from South Carolina settled on the east side of the Kaskaskia River, about ten miles above Kaskaskia, and made a respectable colony, where their ¦decendants enjoy peace, comfort, and happiness to this day. The whole country, during these five years, commenced, in a small degree, to change its character. The extreme backwoods habits of hunting, sporting, gaming, and idleness, were gradu ally laid aside, and more industry, more cultivation of the earth, and more ambition to accumulate wealth, commenced ; the rifle and bee-bait were exchanged for the plow and the jack-plane ; cabins were sometimes adorned with stone chimneys, and the ¦dogs for hunting were dismissed; band mills, propelled by horse power, took the place of the old hand mill and mortars, worked by man power; school -houses, to a small extent, were erected, and the gospel preached in some sections of the country at and about the close of this period; the bibles and spelling-books took the place of the rifles and the steel -traps, and a savage wilderness commenced to yield to Christianity and civilization. Much tvas still to be done in Illinois, after this period, but much was also done during these five years. It is almost impossible to be exactly correct as to the in crease of population in this period. It is estimated that in 1803 there were three thousand inhabitants in the Territory, and per haps one thousand more might be added with safety for the in crease in two years, so that at the end of the year 1805, four thousand souls, French and Americans, may be considered about correct in Illinois. CHAPTER XV. The Morals of the Ilhnois Pioneers. The poverty of the country in eariy times, and the sparse- ness of the population, must furnish the reason that the pio neers of the country at an early day were more moral than the people are at present. It requires the means, as well as the in tention, to commit sin. One other reason is, perhaps, that in early times the people being fewer in number and knew one another better than they do now. Then public opinion was MY OWN TIMES. 49 more certain to fix on a crime and criminal than it is now, when the people are so numerous and seem to be more irresponsible. It is my sincere conviction that morality was more practised and more respected in early times in Illinois than it is at this day. I have lived through all the various scenes and changes in the country for more than half a century, and have almost the whole of this period been amongst the people. Under these circumstances I cannot be mistaken; and I state that the people fifty years since, in Illinois, were more moral than they are at this. time. A white man and an Indian were hung for murder in Kas kaskia, one in 1802, and the other in 1804, and none other was hung in Illinois until 1821, in Belleville. In twenty-two years, to have but two capital punishments, one an Indian, is speaking volumes for the morality of the people. Thefts were of rare occurrence; and forgery, perjury, and similar crimes were seldom perpetrated. The courts were in session four times in each year in Caho kia and Kaskaskia, and grand juries attending them; but if I recollect rightly, the juries were frequently adjourned without finding one single indictment These are the higher crimes I mention as being of rare occur rence — the lower violations of the law were not so rare: as saults and batteries, riots, and similar misdemeanors, arising out of a wild, reckless independence, sometimes occurred. These breaches of the law did not involve any corruption of the heart, but were such that at times they may occur in any community. It is true that the use of intoxicating liquors was indulged in at that day, some more then than at present. Drinking in primitive times was fashionable and polite, and liquor was con sidered an element in the conviviality of all circles — Public opinion sustained the use of the bottle at that day, but now it severely condemns it — this is some palliation for the pioneers. The French were never an intemperate people in the use of liquor. Most of the drinking and intemperance indulged in by the Americans was in the villages of Cahokia and Kaskaskia, and many good citizens were injured by the excessive use of ardent spirits. I had reached my fifteenth or sixteenth year, and had seen in the villages and other places much intemperance and immo rality arising out of drunkenness. I deliberately reflected on the subject and, without consulting any one, or any one know ing it I took a solemn resolution never to drink any distilled spirits whatever. My father had fallen into the habits of in temperance to a considerable extent which was the main rea son that induced me to make this decision. He had injured himself and family by his use of ardent spirits; and I was fear- 4 50 MY OWN TIMES. ful if I drank at all I might fall into the same habits. My humble character was developed some at the time, and I pos sessed, I feared, the same traits which my father had, which might lead me into the same errors. I was satisfied then, as I am now, that there is no certainty in any other manner than to abstain entirely from intoxicating drinks, if a person wishes to- be a sober man. I saw in what manner liquor operated on my father — that when he entered into gay and exciting society that it seemed almost impossible for him to refrain from drinking. This decision has been no doubt of essential service to me, and perhaps saved me from ruin. At that time, I had scarcely ever tasted spirits, and knew not at all how it would operate on me; but I saw that liquor had ruined many men, and I concluded it was the safest course to drink none at all. In early times, in many settlements of Illinois, Sunday was observed by the Americans only as a day of rest from work. They generally were employed in hunting, fishing, getting up their stock, hunting bees, breaking young horses, shooting at marks, horse and foot-racing, and the like. When the Ameri cans were to make an important journey they generally started on Sunday and never on Friday — they often said "the better the day the better the deed." In many of these American settlements there were no clergy men or houses of public worship, and consequently no religious. meetings. Many, like they are at present, would go to church if they had the opportunity. Other colonies observed the Sab bath in a different manner. The older the settlement was, generally, the more the religious worship was observed in it The aged people everywhere generally remained in their houses on the Sabbath, and read the Bible and other books. Not many worked at their ordinary business on Sunday. It was a custom and habit to cease from labor on that day, except from necessity. When any farmer, in olden times, cut his harvest on Sunday, from necessity, public opinion condemned it more se verely at that day than at the present. With the Americans there was no dancing and very little drinking on the Sabbath. The French colonies observed the day in a different manner than the Americans. Worship ended and church over, they were more relaxed in their deportment and enjoyed the rest of the day in amusements, merriment, and recreation. Dancing, training the militia, house- raising, and similar performances, were in pioneer times indulged in by the French on the Sab bath. Public sales of land and other property in early times was held by the French at the church doors on Sundays, after the service was closed. I have seen the young folks in France dancing on a Sunday evening under the shade of the trees, on the grass, with as much gentility and decorum as if the dance had been on any other day of the week. The old people were MY OWN TIMES. SI frequently seated around and enjoying the amusement with decided approbation. These customs are congenial to French vivacity and cheerfulness. The French population frequently assemble on the Sunday evenings and discuss their public business. The French are guarded against the breaches of the higher penal laws. There never was a Creole Frenchman hung in Illinois since the earliest settlement of the country. Some colored persons were hung in Cahokia for the pretended crime of witchcraft. No Creole was ever sentenced to the penitentiary of this State. Misdemeanors, such as keeping a drinking-house open on Sun day, and similar offences, they are at times guilty of, and pun ished by the laws. In common broils and personal combats the French rarely engaged. They detested a quarrelsome, fighting man; but they had a class of bataillers, as the French called them, who prided themselves in single combat. The Americans indulged in personal combats in those days more frequently than at present: very seldom they had "pitched battles," as they were called, but would fight on the spur of the occasion, and frequently make it up before they parted. They scarcely ever fought unless they had been drink ing, and commenced in the heat of passion. In these American fights, no rules were observed, but, at times, eyes and ears were much injured and sometimes destroyed. There is no exhibi tion of human nature in much more degraded and brutal con dition than to be engaged in a "pitch-battle" or a "prize-fight" — any fighting is detestable and degrading, but a fight for a wager puts the contestants and the spectators below the level of the beast ; and a government or public opinion that will not punish it with the severest penalties of the laws deserves the condemnation of every honest man. CHAPTER XVI. Gaming and Sports of the Pioneers of Illinois. — Cards. — Loo. — Shoot ing Matches. — A Keg of Whiskey. — Metheglin. — Horse and Foot Races. — The Author Engaged in Racing. — Working Frolics. — Fe males Attend. All species of gaming were indulged in by the original in habitants of Illinois. I do not pretend to say that every person was devoted to gaming; but it was considered at that day both fashionable and honorable to game for money; but as gentle men, for amusement and high and chivalrous sports. In this manner a great many gambled. Card -playing was sustained 52 MY OWN TIMES. by the highest classes as well as the lowest in the country. A person who could not, or would not, play cards was scarcely fit for genteel society. The French delighted much in this amuse ment, which gave the card parties much standing and popular ity with the Americans. The French, at that time, had the as cendency in the country, and their manners and habits gave tone and character to many such transactions. The French masses, in early times, played cards incessantly in the shade of the galleries of their houses, in the hot summer months. They frequently played without betting; but at times wagered heavi ly., Card-playing was mostly the only gaming the French in dulged in. The ladies of that day, amused themselves often in these games, and as they do at this day. At times, the Amer- cans as well as the French, bet heavily at cards, although they were not considered gamblers. The voyagers and Courier du Bois indulged in this sport more than any other class of citi zens. The most common game of cards at that day was called Loo; and in this game, and in many others, I was frequently engaged like other folks of that time. I have lost or won considerable amounts in an evening. I never considered card-playing as the most innocent amusement; but I yielded to the customs and habits of the country. When I was appointed one of the Judges of the Supreme Court of the State, in 1818, I abandoned card-playing, and every other species of gambling for money. Shooting matches, with the Americans, were great sport. Almost every Saturday in the summer, a beef, or some other article, would be shot for in "the rural districts," and the beef killed and parcelled out the same night. A keg of whiskey was generally packed to the shooting-match, on horseback. Some times, a violin appeared, and "stag dances," as they were termed, occupied the crowd for hours. In 1804, I witnessed a match of shooting in the orchard of Gen. Edgar, a short distance west of Kaskaskia. It was a match between John Smith and Thomas Stubblefield, and the bet was one hundred dollars. Smith won the wager. A small, tricky game for whiskey was often played in these keg groceries, which was called "Finger in danger." Every one that pleased put his finger down in a ring, and then some "knowing one" counted the fingers until the count reached some number agreed on, and the finger at that number, when it was touched was withdrawn, and so on until the last finger in the ring was left, and then it had to pay for the treat. Aged matrons frequently attended these shooting matches, with a neat clean keg of metheglin to sell. This drink is made of honey and water, with the proper fermentation. It is pleas ant to drink, and has no power in it to intoxicate. The old lady often had her knitting or sewing with her, and would frequently MY OWN TIMES. 53 relate horrid stories of the tories in the Revolution in North Carolina, as well as to sell her drink. In the early days of Illinois, horse -racing was a kind of mania with almost all people, and almost all indulged in it cither by being spectators, or engaged in them. The level and beautiful prairies seemed to persuade this class of amusement. The quarter races were the most common, and at which the most chicanery and jugglery were practiced. In quarter races, more depends on fast judges than fast horses. All classes of horse -racing requires sound practical judgment and much knowledge of both horses and men, to succeed in the business. Much time, money, and morals were lost in these early sports of the turf In my youth, I possessed, like many others, a species of mania for horse-racing, and was tolerably successful in the voca tion. I delighted extremely in a fine race-horse, and have ex pended much time in training them. Just preceding an im portant race, I have slept on a blanket in the stable-loft to take care of my horse. Sharpers may poison a horse, or take him out in the night and try his speed with their race-horse. The most celebrated and famous horse-race in early times in Illinois, was run in the upper end of the Horse Prairie, in the spring of 1803, between two celebrated horses. These horses were of the same sire, and ran three miles and repeat, for a wager of five hundred dollars. The bye-bets and all must have amounted to one thousand dollars, or more. At that day, a thousand dollars were worth nearly ten thousand at this time. Almost every American in Illinois attended this race. Foot-racing, jumping, and wrestling were practised by the Americans in early times; and many bets were made on foot races, as well as on the horse-races. As I reached man's estate I was delighted with these rural sports, and became a swift foot-racer myself When I arrived at the years of eighteen or twenty, I grew large and active. My ambition, which was an ardent passion with me, urged me to excel in these athletic sports. I practised foot-racing incessantly, and discovered I was hard to beat. The first race I ever run for a wager, was in Kaskaskia, in the summer of 1808, with the Hon. John Scott, of Ste. Genevieve, Missouri. After the above race, a bet of a hundred dollars was made on a foot-race of one hundred yards to be run by me and a person of the name of Paine. The race was to be run at the place of Mr. Kinney, of lUinois, Gov. Kinney, a few miles east of Belleville. Paine got sick and did not attend the race. I mention these small matters for the object of showing the sports and games of the pioneers of Illi nois; and also, for the purpose of relating "the story of my life," as humble as it may be. Working frolics in pioneer times were also common. The 54 MY OWN TIMES. whole neighborhood assembled and split rails, cleared land, plowed up whole fields, and the like. In the evenings of these meetings, the sports of throwing the mall, pitching quoits,' jumping, and the like, generally closed the happy day. The females assembled also, and were engaged in quilting, carding wool, and talking. The female gossips were conducted at these gatherings in the same spirit as they are all over the world. At these places, their expressions were common: "Do not repeat this." "It may not be true on the lady." "This is a secret between you and me." CHAPTER XVII. Hunting and Fowling in lUinois. In all the frontiers of the West, hunting and fowling were an element by which to obtain a livelihood with the masses. In early times, in Illinois, almost every citizen made hunting his main business in the fall, by which he added considerable to the support of himself and family. Peltries and furs were the staple articles of the country, and were as current and as good as bank paper is at this time. By a kind of public opinion, dear-skins which had the hair shaved off, made a currency at three pounds to the dollar. Books kept, and notes made in this manner, were the common practice of the people, which answered for the standard of busi ness ; as the present age has made the coin of the United States the measure of value. The meat of the chase was generally preserved, and sup ported the families. There is no flesh better than a fat bear, and almost equal is the venison in the fall. In 1800, and many years thereafter, game, deer, bear, and elk were plenty in Illinois, and particularly the deer. The northern Indians did not hunt much around the white settlements, and the Kaskaskia Indians were afraid to go far out to hunt. By these means, the wild animals for ages were unmolested in Southern Illinois, and they grew in great numbers. The rac coons and musk-rats were also numerous. It is said the Indi ans called Kaskaskia River, Raccoon River, for the number of these animals raised on it. In the swamps of the rivers were great numbers of musk-rats. Their fur, as well as the raccoons, was in great demand with the merchants. These animals, the raccoon and the musk-rat, are measurably hunted out until there are only a few of them in the State at this day. Beavers and otters were also found in Illinois in the above period, but were not plenty in "My Times," and none at this day. Elks were not common in Illinois since my residence in the country. I was one of a hunting-party MY OWN TIMES. 55 that wounded an elk, and we tracked it by the blood for miles, but did not get it. It was said that buffalos ranged toward the head of Big Muddy River since we settled in Illinois; but I never saw any of them. Wild fowls in pioneer times were very numerous. In the fall .and spring, great numbers flew over us north and south. The Mississippi, and the low lands near it were on their route north and south ; and at times the air was almost darkened with them. The swans often flew high in the air, and in large gangs. The notes of their music, sung on their passage, were noble and majestic. But almost all these fowls, like the animals of the chase, cease to exist in Illinois, and we see very few of them at this day in their migrations. The fowls generally fly in order, and assume the form something like the letter V, point fore most. One alone is generally in front, and the two lines are extended back from the foremost patriarch of the flock. The game, the fowls, Indians, and pioneers all seem to sink below the horizon about the same time, and leave the scenes of their existence, pleasures, and sports for another generation. Some deer-hunters make their approach to a gang of deer in the open prairie with such adroitness and cunning, that they kill one of the flock. Sometimes the hunter crawls in the open prairie on the ground in the grass, and when the deer look around, he is motionless until they put their heads down to feed again ; then he creeps on again. At times the hunter provides a green bush which he holds in front of him as he advances to the game. In my early days, I possessed a fever for hunting as well as the other pioneers, and hunted considerable; but never was a good hunter. I had two younger brothers, James and Robert, who were excellent hunters, but I think their exposure and hardships in the chase hastened them to their graves. They are both dead. •' On many occasions, the hunters shoot from the backs of their horses, and what is strange, that the ponies will stand as motionless, and not breathe, as a marble statue, when the hunter is shooting from their backs. The sagacity of the horse is wonderful — and to hold his breath on these occasions shows much of it. The food for wild animals, in the early settlement of the country, was grown in Illinois in the greatest abundance. The vegetation in summer was luxuriant and exceedingly nutritious. In the winter, the animals were surrounded with "canebrakes" in all the southern section of Illinois, and the sandy margins of the rivers furnished rushes for food. The lowlands of the streams in those olden days supplied the animals, wild and domestic, with good pasturage all winter. 56 MY OWN TIMES. CHAPTER XVIII. Agriculture and Commerce in the Pioneer Times of lUinois. — Not much Agriculture and Commerce at the commencement of the present Century. — Commenced to sow Fall Wheat at the New De sign. — Sickles. — No Cradles, no Horse-Reapers, no charge for Reap ing. — French raised Spring Wheat. — A Dollar a Bushel for Wheat — Cut Prairie Grass for Hay. — ^French Barns. — Produce to New Or leans. — Lead. — Stock. — Indian Goods. — All Commerce by Water. — No Land Carriage, no Roads. — Railroads add much to Commerce. At the commencement of the present century, agriculture and commerce in Illinois did not flourish to any great extent. The fine soil of Illinois was mostly in the possession of the aborigines, and the white population amounted to only a few thousand souls. About one-half of these few inhabitants made their living by the chase, couriers du bois, and voyaging. Under these circumstances, agriculture and commerce were limited at this period. The great elements of prosperity increased as the population expanded. The farmers commenced to sow fall wheat, and sell it to the merchants. The inhabitants of the New Design gave the first impulse to the growth of fall wheat, and considerable quantities were sold from this settlement. At that day, the sickles, or reap-hooks, were the only imple ment used to cut the wheat. There were no cradles in the country to cut the small grain, and the late improvements made their appearance, to harvest the grain, fifty years afterward. Reaping with a sickle was a severe labor. Wheat at that day sold for a dollar per bushel. Mowing the prairie grass was, as well as reaping wheat, a hot, hard labor; but a short distance, from the farms, in the prairie, or in the timber in places, good grass was selected and mowed. In this branch of agriculture I always made a hand to mow the prairie grass as well as to reap wheat. The Americans, at that day, generally stacked their hay and wheat out, but the French had barns in which they housed their wheat and hay. The French barns were made of large cedar posts, put in the ground some two feet, and set apart four or five feet — the space between the posts was filled up with puncheons put in grooves in the posts, and the whole covered with a thatched roof It- was a great trouble in olden times to thresh and clean the wheat. The Americans used horses at times to tread it out. About the hardest work I ever performed was winnowing the wheat with a sheet. Considerable quantities of corn were shipped from Illinois in MY OWN TIMES. 57 flat-boats to New Orleans before the purchase of Louisiana. ¦ It was an uncertain market, and a more uncertain navigation of the river. Some considerable stock, cattle, and hogs were raised for the market. Some were shipped to New Orleans, and considerable live stock to the lead mines in Louisiana. The commerce on the river and the Indian trade consumed of the small surplus products of the farms. Irish potatoes were raised in abundance in pioneer times in Illinois, and the crops scarcely ever failed. Only small quanti ties of cheese or butter were manufactured — scarcely enough for home consumption. The French scarcely ever troubled themselves with milking- cows; but turned the calves out with the other cattle, and made httle or no butter. They scarcely ever used a churn, a loom, or a wheel. At this early day, both the French and Americans possessed large apple orchards in proportion to the number of people in the country. The French also cultivated considerable orchards of pears, but the peach-tree was almost entirely neglected. In after days, peaches, apricots, and other fruit, were raised in abundance. This is an excehent climate for the above fruit. The greater portion of the merchants made the Indian trade their main object. The furs and peltries were articles in great demand, and were generally shipped to Mackinaw, Philadelphia, and New Orleans. Lead, from the mines west of the Missis sippi, formed an element of some value in the pioneer com merce. The French horses, known as "French Ponies," were sold in great numbers to the Indians. Guns, powder, lead, and all In dian goods, blankets, blue strouding, and calico-shirts, made up, formed large items in the commerce of the day — as the Indians were much more numerous than the whites. The wA)le commercial business of the country was carried on by means of the navigable streams intersecting the valleys of the West in almost every direction. The village of St. Louis, Missouri, at the commencement of the present century, had only small Indian trails leading to it All the commerce and transportation business was performed by water. Of recent date, the railroad system has unfolded a new era to the country, and has advanced the nation at least half a century in its former progress. Time and distance are almost anni hilated, and the extremes of the country brought almost in contact S8 MY OWN TIMES. CHAPTER XIX. Early Education in Ilhnois. — The Author's first Acquaintance with the Arithmetic. — At a Common School in the Winter. — Studies Astrono my. — Studies Surveying and Navigation. — Traits of Character de veloped. Before any common school was established in the settle ment, where my father resided, I mounted a horse nearly every evening during a winter, and rode about a mile and a-half to the residence of James Hughes, to study under his guidance the ¦arithmetic. Mr. Hughes, although he was raised in the back woods, and was filled with fun and frolic, was a man of strong mind and a benevolent heart He took great pleasure in teach ing me the arithmetic, and during this winter I studied the most important principles contained in the treatise. We had not the jleast idea when a school would be established in the neighbor hood; and I was advancing in years, so that it was a matter of necessity to study with Mr. Hughes. This was the first step I took towards an education since we immigrated to Illinois. I attended to my ordinary business on the farm during the day, and in the evenings, after the stock was fed, I studied the arithmetic with Mr. Hughes. In a few years after, schools were established in most of the new colonies. In the New Design, Robert Lemen, an aged and respectable pioneer of Illinois, taught a school. Others were opened in Goshen settlement, and other colonies. About the year 1805, a small school was formed in the settle ment where my father resided. I was a scholar at this humble institution during part of the winters, and the wet^days we could not work on the farm, for one or two years,Tvhile we- remained in the settlement At times, the school was not kept up for the want of teachers. The scarcity of school-books was also a great inconvenience to the scholar. As soon as I commenced the study of the arithmetic with Mr. Hughes, I commenced also an ambition and a small enthusiasm for education generally. This disposition induced me to study and read almost every book I could obtain. It must be recollected at that day in Illinois, not a man in the country, professional, or otherwise, had any collection of books that could acquire the name of library. There were some books scattered through the country, but they were not plenty. Although my father was a reading man, and possessed a strong mind, yet as far as I recollect, he brought to the country with him no books, except the Bible. Many of the immigrants acted ¦ in the same manner as to books. MY OWN TIMES. 59 One exception I recollect was: that John Fulton, who settled in the vicinity of my father, brought with him RoUin's Ancient History. My father borrowed it, and I read it day and night at the times I spared from labor. This was the first history I had ever seen, and it gave me a new field of mental existence. I made arrangements with my father to go all one winter to school. I had raised a colt he gave me, and I gave it to a man to work in my place on the farm while I attended school. At this school I studied reading, writing, and the arithmetic. I revised my studies of the arithmetic I had commenced with Mr. Hughes. It was my energy and ambition more, I presume, than my capacity; but I learned rapidly — so my teachers always reported. At that day, neither the grammar, geography, nor books of science ever appeared in the schools. And no branch of the mathematics was taught except the arithmetic. The custom of that day was also, to study the lessons aloud. Each one in the school read out at the top of his voice, if it suited the con venience of the scholar. This unwise habit is changed at this day. My father purchased a few books, and among them was a treatise on geography. This was a good work in four volumes, and presented a tolerably good geography of the inhabited globe. In this work was also contained a sketch of astronomy, and particularly the solar system. This study astonished and surprised me. It was incomprehensible to me, how it was possible that the knowledge of the heavenly bodies could be obtained. I reflected on this science with all my humble abili ties, and became well instructed in it; so far as that short sketch afforded me the means. My father understood the general principles of astronomy tolerably well, and instructed me con siderably in addition to the treatise mentioned above. In the School near my father's, the teacher was unable to instruct any of his students in the higher branches of the mathe matics, or the sciences, and I made arrangements, with the consent of my father, that I should attend during the winter of 1806 and 1807, a good school, taught by a competent teacher. This school was situated a few miles north-east of the present city of Belleville, on the land of the present Mr. Schreader. I have often examined, with deep feeling, the tumuli of egj-th where this school-house once stood. I revere and respect the site with the same feeling as the Jews in ancient times did the city of Jerusalem. At this seminary I studied land-surveying and navigation. I attended also to reading, spelling, and writing. I became well conversant in the general principles of the mathematics, and particularly in the science of land-surveying. My father pro cured me a surveyor's compass, and I learned both the theory 60 MY OWN TIMES. and practice of surveying. My compass and mathematical books I retain to this day. I studied various branches of mathematics, and the sciences, until I calculated an almanac, but it was never printed. At that day, I never saw a printing office. At this school where I learned surveying, I studied also book-keeping, of which I thought very little. My writing in this study improved my penmanship, -but I think not much my knowledge. In my youth, when I was quite young, I surveyed a con siderable amount of private lands, and gave tolerable satisfac tion, so far as I understood at the time. During these years of my humble life, the traits of my character commenced to de velop themselves. It is almost impossible for any one to deliberate his own character; but he may, I presume, give some of the general outlines, without being guilty of either egotism or folly. My first and strongest impulses and traits of character were, in my opinion, ambition and energy. Since my earliest recollec tion it gave me great pain, and in fact real misery, to be de feated in any enterprise I undertook. This was the case in my tender years, as well as in mature age. Ambition was a passion born with me, to the extent of my humble abilities. Energy was also my company during life. I believe a stationary and idle life would have made me unhappy and would have shortened my days. Another trait was also born with me: that was an extra and morbid degree of diffidence. This defect of organization has given me great pain and trouble through life. I happened to possess a corresponding degree of savage obstinacy, pertinacity, and self-will to persevere onward, or otherwise this bashfulness and diffidence would have been my ruin. I imply not that this bashfulness had any affinity to modesty, of which I pretend to possess no uncommon share. Thus far my readers will permit me, I hope, to speak ^Of myself I know it is dangerous, and a person, when he speaks of him self is liable to say too much on the favorable side. Nature and education are united in forming human character. Neither can accomplish much without the other. Education without a proper subject to act on would be futile; and strong natural parts without education would be almost as useless. All ' the impressions which the mind receives from the surrounding circurnstances, I embrace in the general term of education. And in this view of the subject, education makes lasting im pressions on the mind and forms the character, as heretofore stated in this work. My situation, being raised in the backwoods, has itnpressed me with a pioneer character that has remained with me more or less during life, and for which I am truly thankful. Circum stances compelled me to rely on my own resources, which gave MY OWN TIMES. 6l me self-reliance, and a goodly degree of self-sufficiency, thinking I was compelled to succeed in almost any emergency. Energy and activity were also forced on me by the same circumstances that they seemed to be born with me; and therefore attended me without effort. With these traits of character, together with an unbounded ambition — much diffidence and awkwardness — nature and my age raised me an obscure boy, a small distance above the horizon, and forced me to act in this wide world CHAPTER XX. The Increase of Population and the Extension of the Settlements in Ilhnois from 1805 to 1809, the Time of the Formation of lUinois Territory. — The Monks of La Trappe. — Shawneetown Increased. The whole country on the margin of the Mississippi, Ohio, and Wabash Rivers, from the site where Alton now stands to Vincennes, commenced to improve. Within the present limits of Gallatin, Johnson, and Union Counties, small colonies were formed. The Simpson, Stokes, and many other settlements, were established in this section of the country, while the coun try was under the jurisdiction of Indiana Territory. Some mills were erected on the Little Wabash River, near its mouth; and about this time the town of New Haven commenced near these mills. A talented and energetic merchant then of Shawnee town, laid out New Haven, and erected a fine flour-miU in the vicinity. The settlements around the Ohio Sahne, in Gallatin County, increased considerably, and the business at the salt works was carried on with much prosperity and success. These settle ments, around the margins of these large rivers, extended only a few miles in the interior; and within was a wilderness. The families of Jourdons, and connections, made a location in 1808, east of Big Muddy River, not far from the place where the old Fort Massacre trace crossed the stream. Colonies were formed some years before 1809, on Mary's River and Plumb Creek, in Randolph County, and extended up the east side of the Kaskaskia River, in narrow strips, to the upper extremity of the Horse Prairie, and east of Silver Creek, in St Clair County. On Sugar and Shoal Creeks, some settle ments were formed during this period. The highest locations on Shoal Creek were about the present Greenville; and the settlements on Silver Creek extended up to the vicinity of the present Highland Town, in Madison County. During this period, colonies were extended from the vicinity of the present towns of Troy and Edwardsville to the forks of 62 MY OWN TIMES. Wood River, which was the upper settlement in the country at this early period. Andey Dunegan resided then, solitary and alone, on the site which Alton now occupies. These were the frontier settlements during the war of 1812, and around which the United States Rangers guarded the inhabitants. Some of the Bird family, who had previously resided in Missouri, west of Cape Girardeau, sold out their interest in the premises and settled on the site of the present city of Cairo, in 1805. The settlements extended up the Wabash River, with wide gaps between them, as high as Vincennes — but most of the inhabitants left these upper settlements during the war of 18 12. The French colonies were also extended before 1809; and the villages called "the French Village," situated in the American Bottom, on the present road from Belleville to St. Louis, and the Quentine Village, near the Great Mound, on Cahokia Creek, were formed. The French settlements at Peoria and Prairie du Chien were stationary. The colonies of the Creoles, on the Big Island, in the Missis sippi, above St. Louis, increased but never prospered much. In the year 1809, the Monks of La Trappe made a settle ment in the American Bottom, near the Great Mound, and remained there for several years. This colony was located near the county line, between St. Clair and Madison Counties, and they made there considerable improvements. They introduced into the country a good breed of stock; and were, many of them, excellent mechanics. The monks introduced the first Jack into the country; but there was such inveterate prejudice, at that day, against mules, that no one bred from the Jack. At the place they located it was near large lakes, and they suffered bad health. Two priests and several lay members died here, and they abandoned the country in the year 18 12. This order of religionists. La Trappe, were very rigid and severe in their rules and discipline. It is an ancient order, com mencing in France in the year 1140, and revived in 1664, by Abbey Ranee. This devotee was a crazy fanatic, and enjoined on the monastery perpetual silence. A stone floor was their beds, bread and water their food — and every day they dug part of their graves. I saw many of the order, at their monastery in the American Bottom, who refused to speak, but made signs, pointing to the place to obtain information. Many whom I saw were stout, robust men, badly clothed, but fat and hearty. These monks came to the United States in 1804, and first settled in Pennsylvania, at Conewango Creek — then in Ken tucky—then in the Flourisanf Village, in St. Louis County, Missouri ; and then came to Illinois. They always seemed to me to be discontented and unhappy. The leader of the frater nity, the Rev. Pere Urban, was considered a man of talents and true piety. I have often seen him reading in a book on horse- MY OWN TIMES. 63 back. This monastery was an order of the Cistercian Monks ;. and with all their rigor and severity, they had attached to them many followers. It is a singular trait in the human character, that the most strange and most superstitious institutions of religion wUl secure to them proselytes who will suffer even martyrdom for a cause which they cannot understand. In all religions, it is a principle to chasten "the carnal man," ' as it is called by some, so that the grossest passions, and the most degraded impulses of the animal man, will not be permit ted to run riot and ruin the higher and more intellectual senti ments and impulses of cultivated humanity; but these monks seemed determined to destroy the animality altogether in man, to prevent him from committing sin. As well might a physi- clan kill his patient to cure him. It is extremely difficult to educate the human family in such' manner as to pursue the exact line of right, in the sight of Heaven, between the two extremes of the low, baser passions of man, and the celestial and etherial elevation of the human intellect. During this period, Shawneetown, on the Ohio River, com menced to grow, and gave evidence then of becoming a large commercial town. Shawneetown made its first appearance in the years 1805 and 1806, and increased considerably for some time. Great fleets of keel boats concentrated at this point, engaged in the salt, and other traffic, and diffused life and energy to the new colonies. About the year 1804, La Bauissier, a Frenchman, located on the Ohio River; he fished, traded with the Indians, and kept a ferry. E. Ensminger settled there about the same time, and was deputy-sheriff of Randolph County in 1809. Davenport, Wilson, Ellis, Hubbard, and others, located here a few years after. Congress in 18 10, and also in 18 14, caused to be surveyed out two sections of land in lots, and sold many of them. After the sale a general jollification was enjoyed, and most of the old log- cabins in the town were burnt so that new houses, larger, and built of better materials, would occupy the places of the squatter houses. The river, for several years, did not inundate the town, and everything seemed to prosper and advance the growth of the place — it soon contained a population of fifteen hundred inhabitants or more. The Indians were removed from the country near Shawneetown in 18 11, and the immigrants flocked to the country in great numbers. At the first settlement of Shawneetown, a number of extra ordinary and-highly gifted immigrants settled in it, and gave it a high standing and character throughout the country. Many of these pioneers reached, in after days, a high standing and fame in the public mind. Among many others, Isaac White, 64 MY OWN TIMES. John Marshall, Moses M. Railings, Leonard White, Willis Hargrove, Henry Eddy, John McLean, Thomas C. Brown, A. F. Hubbard, Mose^ M. Street, John Lane, Seth Guard, and many more. In 1805, we computed the population of Illinois to be about five thousand souls; and in 18 10, the census taken then returns 12,284 inhabitants in the territory of lUinois. CHAPTER XXL Sketches of the Author. — Camp-meeting. — The Jerks. — Discipline of the Militia. — The Fourth of July. In the spring of the year 1807, my father purchased a plan tation in the Goshen settlement, situated at the foot of the Mississippi Bluff, three or four miles south-west of Edwards- T^ille ; and there part of the family made a crop of corn before the rest moved up. I had with me my books and compass, and studied the mathematics with care and attention at intervals, when I was not at work on the farm. I was called on to do jobs of surveying, which I performed tolerably well, as all parties concluded. When my father arrived in Goshen, it was the most beautiful country that I ever saw. It had been settled only a few years, and the freshness and beauty of nature reigned over it to give it the sweetest charms. I have spent hours on the bluff, ranging my view up and down the American Bottom, as far as the eye could extend. The ledge of rocks at the present city of Alton, and the rocks near Cahokia, limited our view north and south; and all the intermediate country extended before us. The prairie and timber were distinctly marked, and the Mississippi seen in places. As I grew up, I became more and more energetic, and I could not remain inactive with the least satis faction. I was constantly in motion, except when asleep or at my studies. I attended at the house-raisings and other gather ings of the people. No horse-race, or Fourth of July frohc ¦escaped me. Yet with all this glow of spirits and activity, I never tasted a drop of liquor. The decision not to drink I made irrevocable. The first camp-meeting that was ever held in Illinois was commenced on the premises of Mr. Good, about three miles south of the present Edwardsville. This meeting convened in the spring of 1807, and I attended it At the meeting, many persons were curiously exercised by the "jerks," as it was called. It seemed an involuntary exercise, and made the victims some times dance and leap until they were entirely exhausted, and would fall down helpless on the ground. When they were in MY OWN TIMES. 65 these furious motions, the parties would generally shout and cry aloud on the Lord. It was supposed to be contagious by ¦sympathy. These jerks remained with the people for many years, but have long since disappeared. The clergy encouraged it for many years, but at last they turned a deaf ear to it and it ceased among the people. It seemed to me the parties became much excited, and got into a frenzied state of mind, so that they knew not what they did. For the first time, I mustered in the spring of 1807, in Cahokia. It was a general muster for the county of St. Clair; and men, women, and many children, attended it. In those days, females appeared at these gatherings in great numbers: they rode on horseback, and often carried their children for many miles to these places of public resort. At this muster, a troop of cavalry was training; and they and the infantry were firing, for amusement, blank cartrages at each other. A com pany of French, in Cahokia, by accident, or otherwise, fired leaden shot into the cavalry company, and wounded many of the men and horses. At that day, a bad state of feeling existed between the French and Americans, and the regiment was divided, so that the two races mustered apart from each other at the next training. The country, at that day, was surrounded with Indians who were not friendly to the approach of the Americans, and it was necessary that the people should keep up a strict military organization for defense. By this training and military disci pline, the whole male population of Illinois made experienced soldiers, to defend themselves in the war of 181 2, without any difficulty whatever. The celebration of the Fourth of July was frequently, in these early times, made by horse-races and other sports, to demonstrate the joy of the people. I attended two celebrations of the Fourth at horse-races — one in 1807, at a race in the American Bottom, a mile east of the Sugar Loaf; and the other, the next year, on the prairie, in the American Bottom, north-west, and near the residence of the late Samuel Judy. At that day, and previously, I never saw in Illinois any regular celebration of the Fourth of July by dinners, speeches, and the like. I had often read the Declaration of Independence of 1776, and admired it as being the greatest achievement of human intellect, and on the greatest occasion; but I had never heard it read at a Fourth of July celebration until in Knoxville, Tennessee, on the Fourth of July, 18 12. The celebration in Knoxville was one of the most enthusiastic meetings I ever witnessed: the war against England had just been declared, and the patriotic citizens of Tennessee were red hot and flaming to fight the enemy. Judge Scott, of Knoxville, a splendid orator, read the declaration, and made a speech that roused to action 5 66 MY OWN TIMES. every spark of Tennessee patriotism. He painted, in glowing, colors, the scalps of men, women, and children, for which the British Government paid gold, at Detroit and other places, in the Revolution. England, at that dinner, had no friends at all. CHAPTER XXII. Early Government of Illinois. — In 1800, down to 1809, Illinois formec a part of Indiana Territory. Establishment of St Clair and Ran dolph Counties. — ^Judges of the Court. — Jurisdiction of Courts and Justices of the Peace. — First Lawyers. — Election in 1802. — ^Assem bly Convened at Vincennes to Suggest Measures. — Contrast in the Travel to Vincennes in 1802 on Horseback, and in 1855 by Rail road. Illinois, from 1800 to 1809, made a part of the Indiana Territory, and was, during that period, under the laws and juris diction of that territory. When we arrived in Illinois in 1800, there were only twc^ counties, St. Clair and Randolph, including the Illinois section of Indiana. Governor St. Clair and Judges organized the county of St. Clair in the year 1790, when he was Governor. and Illinois formed a part of the great North- Western Terri tory. The eastern line of the county commenced on the lUi nois River, at the mouth of the Mackinaw Creek, some distance below Peoria, and run a direct course to the Ohio River, near the old Fort Massacre, and thence down the Ohio to the mouth, and up the Mississippi and Illinois Rivers to the beginning. This county embraced at that day all the settlements in Illinois, and ten times more territory than they occupied. In the year 1795, Randolph County was formed, which was taken off the southern section of St. Clair, and the line dividing the counties ran nearly east and west through the wilderness country, between Prairie du Rocher and the New Design colony. The county seats of these two counties were at Kaskaskia and Cahokia. A court of common pleas and quarter session were organized and held in each county seat four times in each year. The Judges of these courts were sound headed and respectable men, who had no pretention to law-learning; but were about similar to the best of our Justices of the Peace at this day. Robert Morrison, Esq., was the Clerk of the Court in Randolph County and John Hay, Esq., in St. Clair. At times, Shadrach Bond, James Lemen, William Whiteside, James Piggot, Jean F. Perry, Nicholas Jarrot George Atchison, and many other similar good men, composed the Judges of the court of St. Clair County; and John Edgar, William Morrison, N. Hull, Robert Reynolds (my father), John Beaird, and others, were at MY OWN TIMES. 6^ times Judges of the courts in Randolph County. These Judges were appointed by the Governor of the territory, and held their offices during his pleasure. The courts had similar jurisdiction with our present Circuit Courts. They also regulated the public business of the county. These Judges acted, also, as Justices of the Peace as well as Judges of the court of common pleas. Also, Justices of the Peace were appointed, whose jurisdiction in civil suits was limited to twenty dollars. It required three Judges to constitute a quorum, but more might sit on the bench. These two counties and the administration of the law remained in this condition untU the year 1812, when other coun ties were established. In 1803, I heard speeches made in court by lawyers Haggin and Darnielle, in Kaskaskia, which was the first "pleading," as it was then called, I ever heard. These two lawyers and John Rice Jones, were the only attorneys in Illinois when we arrived in the country. Soon after, when Louisiana was ceded to the United States, more lawyers appeared in the country. After we settled in the country, the first elecdon for members of a convention was held in December, 1802, in Kaskaskia, and Robert Morrison, Pierre Menard, and my father were elected for Randolph County, and Jean F. Perry, Shadrach Bond, and John Moredock, for St Clair County. This assembly convened in the winter at Vincennes, and was not for legislation entirely, but to advise with Governor Harrison on the government of the territory, and the second grade of territorial government. The country between Kaskaskia and Vincennes was then a wilderness, and I recollect well hearing my father relate the difficulties the members had in swimming the streams in the wilderness, and their want of food for themselves and horses. At this day, seven hours of pleasant travel in the cars on the railroad, from St Louis, will land the traveller in Vincennes. What a contrast. CHAPTER XXIII. My Journey to the CoUege in Tennessee. — A Letter from Tennessee decides me for the College. — Preparations. — Diffidence. Although I had reached my twentieth year, yet I had not reflected or decided in what manner I would make a living. One thing was most certain : that I relied on myself for a sup port I knew my father had not the means to assist me to any great extent, but it never cost me a moment's reflection, as I was satisfied in my own abUity to make a living. I had never engaged in anything great or important in my humble course of Ufe, and to pursue it on in an even tenor did not require much talent or capacity. 68 MY OWN TIMES. In the forepart of the winter of 1809, my uncle, John Reynolds, of Knox County, Tennessee, wrote my father a letter, suggesting the propriety of sending me to Tennessee to college. This letter found me as above stated, in an unsettled condition, ready for a college, a horse-race, or a tour to the Rocky Mountains, as the latter was sometimes .spoken of It is strange what a small circumstance does often decide the destiny of a person for life. This suggestion of my uncle caused me to abandon my agricultural pursuits, and embrace another entire different profession. I had not the least inten tion, and it was not hinted at the time to me, that I was to study law if I ever became qualified. I considered it right at all events, to receive education, no matter what business I might afterward pursue. If it had not been for my uncle, I would have remained at home, and have pursued, I presume, agriculture for a liveli hood. I would not have remained idle, but forced my way to the uttermost of my capacity in some enterprise. My mother disliked me to leave home, and for her and her wishes I entertained the most profound respect. But to satisfy me she consented, and then all was bustle at home getting me ready for college. As the occasion occurred to test my diffidence, it increased; so that my travel to Tennessee, and my appearance at college haunted me in my slumbers. But when I commenced an enter prise, let it be education, the practice of law, or any pursuit of any description, my disposition was and is such that I would suffer martyrdom before I would abandon it while there was a gleam of hope left. With these traits of character, I had many trials and conflicts of feelings to encounter in the progress of my collegiate education in Tennessee, and, also, throughout my whole life. It must be recollected, that in Illinois I was raised in the extreme backwoods, without ever being in any society except the wildest. At that day, to my recollection, I never saw a carpet, a papered wall, or a Windsor chair. Where I associated, none of these articles existed. I think, before I was twenty years old, I never lived in a shingled-roof house, or one that had glass windows in it. My father was about the most wealthy farmer in the neighborhood ; but fine houses were not then in the country, anywhere out of the villages, and not many in them. The society, near Knoxville, then the seat of the State Government, was polished and fashionable. Under these cir cumstances, what anguish of feelings I was bound to suffer. I had crossed the Rubicon, and death or success was my motto. It may be considered pride or vanity in me; but I had much self-reliance. I mostly thought I was equal to the emergency. MY OWN TIMES. 69 and althaugh this confidence did not destroy my diffidence, yet it was the main lever that urged me on. I was a singular spectacle, when I started in 1809 to college; I looked more like a trapper going to the Rocky Mountains, than a student to college. I was well educated in the arts and mysteries of horse and foot-racing, shooting-matches, and all other wild sports of the backwoods, but had not studied the polish of the ballroom, and was sorely beset with diffidence, awkwardness, and poverty. My mother and female friends commenced to fix me up for college. They spun and wove from the raw material of wool, cotton, and flax, my clothing. At that day, broadcloth was not much seen in the country; at least it was not with me. These clothes were made up without tailors, and did not fit; so that I was placed in fashionable and polished society in Tennessee in a most ludicrous position. This appearance, together with my inherent bashfulness, gave me much pain and mortfication. I wore a cream -colored hat, made out of the fur of the prairie wolf, which also made rather a grotesque appearance. My par ents did for me the best in their power, and did it with the most kind and affectionate feelings, for which in all the ups and downs in my life, I turn back to them with the most profound feelings of respect and gratitude. It seemed to me they would almost give up their lives at any time for my welfare. When I left home my feelings were aroused into great inten sity ; and when I turned my head back leaving home, and saw my mother shedding tears, I bitterly condemned the college ; but honor and obstinacy propelled me onward, if I had died on my horse. John Green, an excellent young man, afterwards a rather conspicuous character in Greene County, 111., travelled with me to the lower part of Kentucky, and when we sepa rated I was miserable. Together we did tolerably weU; but as Burns the poet sings in his Highland Mary, "our parting was fu' tender." Many days I travelled the whole day without eating or feed ing my horse I was so diffident an.d pioneer-like to appear in a fashionable hotel, that I suffered for the want of food. It is strange in the same proportion as diffidence appeared on me, the opposite traits of character were propelling me onward ; so that I would have appeared in Tennessee, as I had commenced the enterprise, if I had been forced to crawl there on my hands and feet. Between Kaskaskia and the Ohio River was mostly a wilder ness. We crossed the Ohio at Ford's Ferry, and passed Hop kinsville, Gallatin, in Tennessee, and at last I approached the Cumberiand Mountains. It was nine years since I had crossed them, and I had forgotten them considerably. Being so long in Illinois, in which there are no mountains, the sight of them was magnificent and sublime. I took great pleasure in viewing JO MY OWN TIMES. these great and grand worses of creation, and frequently loitered behind my company gazing on the scenery. At last I reached the residence of my uncle, in Knox County, Tennessee, and found him and his amiable wife enjoying rural "life, in that happy medium between the extremes of wealth and poverty, that is the most conducive to happiness. They re ceived me with open arms, as if I had been their only son. It is to this family that I have reason to look, next to my parents, or even more, for my advancement in life. These rela tives possessed and exerted a kindness for me, that time makes it more indelible on my heart. They moved in a respectable circle of society, and knew exactly what to say and do for me. They placed me in that condition in which it was proper for me to act in my situation. My wardrobe was re-organized; and my hat, which was made in Illinois out of the fur of a prairie-wolf, was exchanged for a fashionable beaver. It is almost impossible for one to cast off the wilderness-man ners and habits of twenty years' growth, and assume in a short time the polish and fashion of refined society. Another scene now presented itself, which I disliked ex tremely. But it was one like death, that could not be avoided. It was to introduce me to the preceptor of the college and the students. This scene was not at a horse-race or a shooting- match, and I felt rather disagreeable in the operation. Many young men told me afterwards, when we became familiar, that they had no idea at first that I ever could become a scholar. CHAPTER XXIV. My First Year at CoUege. — The Preceptor. — The Books I Read. The preceptor of this college was an accomplished scholar, the Rev. Divine, Isaac Anderson, whose learning and piety were known and appreciated far and near. Nature bestowed on him a great strength and compass of mind, and it might be said of him, like Cardinal Wolsey, "from his cradle, he was a scholar," "a ripe, and good one." He is yet alive, and is the patriarch of learning in East Tennessee. He is not only at the head of an institution of learning in East Tennessee, but he also stands deservedly at the head of the Christian ministry in his section of the country. This gentleman instructed a class of young men, in his col lege, and preached to his congregation every Sabbath. He kindly received me into his seminary, and was to me a warm friend and benefactor. This institution of learning was situated in a retired valley, where neither temptation nor vice made their appearance. MY OWN TIMES. 71 It was six miles north-east of Knoxville, and near the par son's house. A large spring flowed out from the rocks near it, and the whole scenery around was charming, innocent, and rural. The building of the institution was comfortable and " unpretending." Wealth in it or about it made no display to deaden or distract the vigor of the intellect The Latin gram mar was the first book put into my hands, and it'^as my de cided companion for several weeks and months, so that we scarcely ever were apart, only on occasions of sleep and meals. I had no acquaintances at the college or country. I was diffi dent — had no means to make a display, and had no inclination. I knew I was rising into years and I must act. I commenced to know and appreciate a character and standing. All these things conspiring, made me exert every latent and dormant intellect and energy that I possessed. I made hasty strides in the Latin language, that was noticed by the college; but I knew not myself my exact progress, as well as others did. The first small Latin book I read after the grammar was, I think, Corderi. I soon came to Selectee Profanis. The others I had been studying was a kind of Englished Latin. This book was a trouble. My mind had not been disciplined entirely to study in Illinois, and I had to force it into the harness of ab solute application. I had commenced the enterprise, and my readers know my motto was success or an ignominious grave. It was something like taking a colt off the prairie-grass and entering him in a race-course without keeping or training. It required much exertion to succeed. Caesar's Commentaries on his Gallic wa'rs was studied by me, and much admired. Ovid's Metamorphosis was also read attentively. I did not much like this author, although he has considerable genius in changing girls into trees, and the like. I then studied the works of Vir gil, and greatly adrriired them. His pastorals are innocent and as the ladies would say, "sweet." His Georgics are good. Many of the best principles of agriculture are there laid down. He is not so wrong in stating that bees will generate in the pounded carcass, of a young heifer. But it was the .^nead that I so much admired. In this work were philosophy, religion, and many great principles combined. The descent of .(Eneas into the dreary abode of the spirits, called Averna, shows the notions of the ancients in the future state. I remarked, particularly in in the works of Virgil, that he was so diffident that he would not enter Rome in daylight for fear of the gaze of the people. He came into the city in the night I discovered that others had been incommoded with this disease as well as myself I consider the work of Virgil shows, besides great genius in the author, science and philosophy in the work. The next author placed in my hands was Horace. I read his Satires, much of his poetry, and his art of poetry. This writer was to 72 MY OWN TIMES. me not so interesting as Virgil. Horace had perhaps more strength of mind, and an intellect more pointed than Virgil,. but there was a beauty and a flowing elegance^with the author of the JEnead, that I did not preceive in the other. The last Latin author I read at school was Cicero. His orations were considered at the college the ne plus ultra of human excellence, and not so badly judged, in my opinion. I studied with care and attention the Orations of Cicero, and admired them with the warm enthusiasm of a school-boy. It requires a good Latin scholar to understand the speeches of this celebrated orator, and I neyer read them with so much pleasure as I did the- .(Enead of Virgil. When I was at the college, hearing the first words of any line of the first books of the ./Enead, I could repeat the rest of the line. The above are the principal Latin authors I studied at the college, but I looked over Sallust and many other Latin writers. But in my opinion, Cicero was, taking him- in all things, the greatest literary man Rome ever produced; and it is doubtful, if modern times ever could boast of a supe rior man. Some writers say, Julius Caesar was the most accom plished scholar and man the world ever saw; but in my opinion, he fell behind Cicero in not only eloquence but science and literature. The writings of Cicero will stand transcendent \vl the minds of all intelligent men, while eloquence and learning are respected on the globe. For native, pure, and pathetic elo quence, I believe the great American orator, Henry Clay, was superior to Cicero; but he appeared far behind the noble Ro man in science and literature. It must be recollected, that the cotemporaries of Henry Clay, besides the American feeling, en joyed the pleasure of witnessing the grand and majestic bursts of eloquence from the lips of the American, while the efforts of the Roman are preserved only on paper. Eloquence cannot be confined and transmitted in writing in those glowing, beaming,, and overwhelming torrents that flow from the lips of the orator himself At this coUege it was the custom to read compositions on one Saturday, and the next, to deliver orations. This rule is a. good one, but the performance of it was to me a great trial, particularly the speaking on Saturdays. All the two weeks. previous, and in fact all the weeks, this awful day was looked upon by me with deep and intense feeling. Writing the compo sition was a closet performance, be it good or bad, that any one could do, according to his will and capacity; but the reading of it to the teacher was to me very painful. His gentle and kind criticism on the pieces was more to sooth my perturbed spirit than otherwise. The orations were committed to memory, and spoken to a full house of the students, and others, with the venerable and learned preceptor presiding, with that noble dig nity which seems to be the birthright of the Rev. Isaac Ander son. MY OWN TIMES. 7J • I retain the impressions of that scene vividly on my mind to this day, of my first attempts to deliver orations, which I had committed to memory. The teacher presided, and the house full of students, and others, more to witness my debut than any other cause. I knew it and the more I thought of the scene, the more I disliked it. I could not reason the diffidence off. Or I could not forget it or shift it off, but I must bear it. This is no caricature, or exaggerated story, of my first ap pearance in this scene. When I commenced, I trembled from head to foot niy voice faltered and was strange to my own ears. I jumbled over sentences and paragraphs in the speech. In voluntarily and unconsciously I leaned on a table near me, until my person made an angle of forty-five degrees with the floor. To see the crowd gazing on me, and myself making such a cari cature of a speech, was extremely disagreeable. At this college was organized a debating society, that aided the students much in their elocution as well as mental re searches. I was persuaded to join, and committed to memory my addresses. The teacher generally presided, and took occa sion often to commend my efforts, more to encourage me than any merit my speeches possessed. Also, at this college, at the close of each session of five months, an "exhibition," as it was caUed, was held. A large audience attended; and the scholars not only exhibited their studies before the congregation, but also performed plays, something similar to a theatre. The teachers from all the surrounding institutions were invited, and - examined the scholars in their studies. I well remember at one of these exhibitions, the celebrated pulpit orator, Gideon Blackburn, was present. This gentleman was the most elo quent divine I ever heard, and his address to the students was a matchless piece of eloquence. It was the first true and lofty eloquence I ever heard, and I never knew before the power of this celestial gift to man. A native and accomplished orator exhibits human nature in its highest eminence. I finished my Latin studies with great celerity, but I often revised them afterwards at the college, and taught classes in that language; so that when I left the college, I was a good Latin scholar. The circumstances under which I labored forced me to study, as I have already stated. I was diffident particularly in the society of ladies, and was also destitute of all the fashionable and polished graces of a ballroom. I never knew a tune, or at tempted to dance in my life. I po.ssessed in an eminent degree the awkward appearance of a wild youth caught up from the prairies of Illinois. I knew well my situation, and would not if I had the means, and I had not, force myself into fashionable and accomplished dissipation, under any circumstances, aU though urged to it by all my youthful comrades. 74 MY OWN TIMES. In my situation, intense application to my books was my sole employment and pleasure, and my success naturally arose out of my exertions. CHAPTER XXV. The Second Year at CoUege. — The Scenes at CoUege. — General Hous ton, of Texas, at the Same Institution. — Commenced Reading Law. — Studied Intensely. — Became Sick. — Quit Study. — Returned to Ilhnois. In the vacation of this coUege I studied as attentively as I did at other times. In one vacation, I studied the English grammar and Euclid's Elements of Geometry. I found the English grammar to present no great trouble to understand it; but to be particular in the observance of the rules was more difficult, and often the rules were disregarded. The study of Euclid's Elements of Geometry was to me a great treat, and unfolded to me a science of absolute certainty that none other attains. It astonished me how the principles of geometry could first be demonstrated, when it was with considerable difficulty that a person can follow the landmarks laid down by the ancient sages and philosophers. The fifth problem in Euclid, known as the pons assinorum, "bridge of asses," was somewhat difficult to understand. When I demonstrated the problem, the teacher said that was the "bridge of asses," and as I crossed it, I could go on. I got over it before I knew it. The problem is grand and sublime where the square of the hypothenuse is proven to be equal to both the squares of the legs of a right- angled triangle. My former studies, the mathematics, made the elements of geometry more easily comprehended. When the session of the college opened in the spring of 1810, I commenced the study of the sciences and literature, I studied geography and history carefully. I also read with care, rhetoric and logic. Blair's Lectures gave me such information on the various branches of that subject. This author showed himself in these lectures to be a great and learned man, whose science and work on rhetoric entitle him to much fame. I studied the treatise of logic written by Dr. Watts, which was mathematical and demonstrative, after the manner of Eu clid's Elements of Geometry. The moral philosophy, by Dr. Paley, was also studied by me, and recited to the teacher. The next study I commenced was astronomy, which unfolded the great and grand works of creation, which I only glimpsed at in Illinois. Dr. Young says the truth, that "an undevout astrono mer must be mad." Although the study of astronomy was pleasing and fascinating, yet much of the science was abstruse MY OWN TIMES. 75 and difficult to comprehend. It required the undivided atten tion of the mind to understand it. I studied also at this col lege, the science of chemistry, in connection with natural phi losophy. Chemistry is a very interesting study, which gave me much entertainment. During the closing sessions at the college I enjoyed much social happiness. I became attached to the preceptor and stu dents, and we mingled together like a band of brothers. My studies were not only easy and light but pleasant and agreea ble. I wore off some of the diffidence and rusticity of my youth, and was easy and happy,|in a society that was so kind to me. I had gained a little reputation at the college and a short dis tance around it. I enjoyed in Illinois the character of a wild, sportive youth, but this was the first speck of literary reputation ever reached me, although small, yet my vanity and foibles of human nature were pleased at it. It is happiness to any one to know his actions are approved by his conscience and an intelligent public. After the exhibition and the examination of the students on the sciences we studied, I left the institution with a heart brim ful of intense feelings. It pained me to leave my fellow-stu dents, perhaps forever, and the venerable preceptor; but duty demanded it and the effort was accomplished. At this last ses sion, a youth, afterwards Governor Sam Houston, of Texas, was a student, and was an agreeable young man, whom all respected. My excellent and learned preceptor is yet alive in Maryville, Tennessee, and is, as he always has been, for almost half a cen tury, not only a standard of the clerical profession, but the great patriarch of literature in East Tennessee. In October, 1810, I commenced the study of the law, in Knoxville, with a most excellent and agreeable man and lawyer John McCampbell, Esq. In his office I commenced Black- stone's Commentaries. I was highly pleased with the style of the author, and the system on which Judge Blackstone pre sented the common-law of England to his students. There is no law-book extant that can boast of a better style, or a more compendious system of the laws of England, than is found in the Commentaries of Blackstone. I had few acquaintances in Knoxville, and was retired and private — had no recreation, amusement, or social society. I was forced to study night and day in self-defence, and before spring I injured my health so much that I was forced to abandon my studies. I read six or eight months incessantly, and in the time had passed a successful examination on Blackstone and other law-books. I studied history also in the time. My preceptor, Mr. McCampbell, urged on me the neccessity of understanding the history of England, so as to comprehend the common-law, and the various statutes passed in aid of it. I also read many •j6 MY OWN TIMES. miscellaneous works. Mr. McCampbeU possessed a large library of literary and miscellaneous books as well as law. I studied in this intense and unwise manner until spring, and I contracted a cough, and my lungs were affected. I had pain in my breast and often spit blood. I became pale, emaciated, and lost my appetite. I had cold, unnatural sweats at night, and slept but little. I was weak and inactive. I had at college and at musters through the country frequently tried my speed with foot-racers, but now I was scarcely able to mount a horse, let alone to run a foot-race. How I grieved at the loss of my backwoods' activity! My situation alarmed my uncle and friends more than it did me. I had such implicit confidence in my native vigor and strength of constitution, that I thought nothing could injure me. But by the advice of friends I con sulted a learned and talented physician. Dr. Strong, and he was some surprised at my situation. He at once pronounced me incurable, if I continued to pursue the same course of conduct that reduced me to that situation. He took much interest in my case, as I persume he discovered I was worse than I sup posed I was. He said I must reverse the order of things that produced this result. I must study none — take all the exercise that I could bear — eat light food, and pass my time in jovial and pleasant society. This was the ground work of the cure, and his advice, I presume, saved my life. Under these circum stances, I shut up my books, and bid a farewell to the law and my studies for almost a year. My fine race-horse became sick from inaction, and unlike me, he died. I possessed then nothing on earth save some few clothes, and the commencement of the consumption. I had no horse, no money, or wealth of any description. But the hearts of my uncle and aunt overflowed with kindness to me. I was furnished with a fine horse and money, and started home to Illinois, by Lexington, Kentucky, and Vincennes, Indiana, in the spring of the year 1811. CHAPTER XXVI. The Summer of 1811. — MisceUaneous. — My Return to Illinois. — My ^ Health. — Indian Disturbance. — Indications of War. — Forts BuUt — Captain Levering at Peoria to Sound the Indians. — The Comet. — The Earthquake. — Sports and Horse -Racing. I wended my way over the Cumberland Mountains, at the famous gap known as the "Cumberland Gap," and although I was sick, lonesome, and feeble, yet I enjoyed the mountain scenery with great pleasure. Some' of the elevations of per pendicular rocks, on the sources of the Cumberland River, near MY OWN TIMES. 17 the road must be over a thousand feet high. I often gazed with wonder and delight at these sublime and majestic works of nature in these mountains. This is the same road on which General George Rogers Clark and Gabriel Jones blistered their feet travelling in the year 1776, from Kentucky to the capital of Virginia. This is also the road on which Boone first travelled to Kentucky. I was surprised to see the Kentucky River where it seemed to have chiseled itself a channel a hundred feet deep in places in the limestone rocks, to run in. Lexington was a handsome town at that day; and near it was the first attempt tck erect a steam -mill I ever saw. The mUl was not finished, but much work was done on it. One night, in Lexington, for the first time, I heard the watchman cry out in a shrill, unearthly tone, the time of night and the weather. I got up and went to the window to know what was the matter! The next day, I was told all about it — Louisville was then, in the spring of 18 11, a small place. I crossed the Ohio River alone, and started through the wil derness to Vincennes. At that period, the Indians had alarmed the people on the road so much that scarcely any settlers remained on the way. I found at White River a flat-boat, but no one to cross me over. I had been accustomed some to a boatman's life. I put my horse in the flat-boat and rowed my self over, although the stream run with an exceedingly strong current. No one resided between Vincennes and the Kaskaskia River. McCauley had improved at the Little Wabash, but had left it for fear of the Indians. I got in company with two other travellers at Vincennes, and we made the journey together to Shoal Creek, in the present Clinton County. At this point, they went on to St. Louis, and I made my way to Goshen settlement, where my father resided. On the route from Vincennes to Illinois I could not keep with my companions, but they would wait for me. I was on a fine horse, but I became so weak that I could scarcely sit on him. We travelled exceedingly fast. The first day after leav ing Vincennes we camped at the Little Wabash, and the next night at the Kaskaskia River. I got home to my father's in the American Bottom, in a little more than two and a-half days' travel from Vincennes. My mother was much distressed at my appearance, and shed tears profusely. She mourned my un timely death, as if I were dead. This was the most trying scene of this character I ever experienced. I was distressed with the grief of my mother. I consoled her, cheered her up, and made a bad case as good as possible, with my sickly ap pearance. I took no medicine, except, perhaps, I drank some water mixed with ley. I regulated my diet to suit me, and exercised much on horseback. A person in the backwoods without a horse, is almost like a 78 MY OWN TIMES. soldier in battle without a gun, or a German on a farm without a wagon. I traded and managed until I got a horse. During this summer, much excitement prevailed among the people on account of the approaching war with Great Britain and with the Indians. Although the country had its improve ments, yet it was weak and defenceless. Numerous hordes of warlike and hostile savages surrounded the settlements, and indications were certain that they breathed a spirit of vengeance against the whites. It is strange that the pioneers on the frontiers could discover sooner the movements of the British Government, through the Indians, than our government could by their Minister in Europe. My father resided not far from the frontiers, and his house was often filled at night with the citizens for fear of the Indians. Two murders were committed this year, which added much to the fears and alarms of the people. A young man, Mr. Cox, was killed on the 2d of June, near the forks of Shoal Creek, in the present county of Bond, and his sister, a young woman, taken prisoner. The young lady was rescued, but the horses the Indians stole from the house were not recovered. On the 20th June, of the same year, i8i i, Mr. Price was kUled near the spring in the lower part of the present city of Alton. And to close the year with Indian troubles, the celebrated battle of Tippecanoe was fought on the 7th of November of that year. Under these circumstances, the country was agitated through out the whole year, and with good cause, as the next year the war was declared, and the whole Indian world turned loose on the weak and defenceless settlements on the western frontiers. Ninian Edwards had been appointed, in the year 1809, Gov ernor of the territory of Illinois, and he was active and efficient in preparing the country for defence. With his advice, family forts were erected all around the frontiers. In this year, Gov ernor Edwards ordered Captain Levering, from Kaskaskia, to organize a small military company at Cahokia, and to proceed with it in a boat to Peoria. At that day, Peoria was considered almost as inaccessible as California is at this time. The whole country north of a sparse settlement on Wood River and Shoal Creek, in the present counties of Madison and Bond, was a wilderness filled with hostile Indians, and Peoria was at that day only visited by Indian traders. The object of the expedi tion was to sound the Indians around Peoria, as that village was the capital of all the Indian country in Illinois at that day. Joseph Trotier, a French Creole of Cahokia, a person ot sagacity, was sent out from Peoria some forty miles to the Kickapoo Indians, that resided on Sugar Creek, north-east of Elkhart Grove, in the present county of Sangamon. Trotier had a "talk" prepared, and took down by his interpreter the MY OWN TIMES. 79 speeches of the Indians in answer to it I disremember what information they sent back to Governor Edwards; but I have no doubt it was evasive and untrue. There are no people who have more low, cunning diplomacy than the Indians, and this nation, the Kickapoos, had the most intelligence of any of the surrounding tribes. Captain Levering returned in peace, but by the exposure on the river he died soon after he reached Kaskaskia. To add to the terrors of one class of people, a comet, large and brilliant, appeared in the fall of this year, in the south-west section of the heavens. This comet was believed by many to be a true harbinger of war, and stories were afloat among the people, that the roar of a battle, the reports of the cannon and small arms were heard in the skies. The reality of war the next year was bad enough without these silly stories. On the night of the i6th of November, 1811, an earthquake occurred that produced great consternation among the people. The centre of the violence was near New Madrid, Missouri, but the whole vaMey of the Mississippi was violently agitated. Our family all were sleeping in a log- cabin, and my father leaped out of bed crying aloud "the Indians are on the house." The battle of Tippecanoe had been recently fought and it was sup posed the Indians would attack the settlements. We laughed at the mistake of my father, but soon found out it was worse than Indians. Not one in the family knew at that time it was an earthquake. The next morning, another shock made us acquainted with it, so we decided it was an earthquake. The cattle came running home bellowing with fear, and all animals were terribly alarmed on the occasion. Our house cracked and quivered so, we were fearful it would fall to the ground. In the American Bottom, many chimneys were thrown down, and the church bell in Cahokia sounded by the agitation of the build ing. It is said a .shock of an earthquake was felt in Kaskaskia in 1804, but I did not perceive it The shocks continued for years in Illinois, and some have been experienced this year, 1855. In August of this year, I attended a camp-meeting at Shiloh, St. Clair County, and by sitting up all night, I brought on the fever and ague. I thought this disease gave me relief from the attack on my lungs. In November of this year, I made a wager to run a-quarter race in Cahokia for five hundred dollars, and the amount was to be staked in horses valued at cash prices. At that day, this amount was equal to several thousand at the present time, as the country is now so much wealthier. The race-horses were kept for weeks, and the whole country attended to see the sport, I had but one horse to stake, but Thomas Carlin, the late Gov ernor of Illinois, and his relative, William Savage, owned the So MY OWN TIMES. horse I made the race on, and staked the balance of the horses. The property was valued low; as each party supposed they would win the race. We fairly won the bet. I sold the horse I won to a hotel-keeper in Knoxville, and boarded it out with him while I studied law. CHAPTER XXVII. My Return to CoUege and to the Law-School in Knoxville, Tenn. — Hugh L. White and Jenkin Whiteside. — General Gaines and Recruits in KnoxviUe. — Last Foot-Race of the Author. I Travelled into Tennessee in January, 1812, and entered again the college to revise my former studies. I remained here some time, and examined and rehearsed to my preceptor the general course of my previous studies. I discovered that my memory was good, and that all came up almost as fresh as ever to view. ^ After this revision of my previous studies at the college, I became again a law-student in the office of Mr. McCampbell, at KnoxvUle, in the year 18 12. It was considered by all that I had escaped from sickness, and perhaps death, fortunately, and that I must not study in that unwise manner again. I saw, myself, the necessity of more exercise and relaxation of my labors, and acted accordingly. Nevertheless, I read considerably, and attended the courts to witness the practice of the law in them. The seat of the State Government was then in Knoxville, and the Superior Court sat there. I often witnessed the efforts of Hugh L. White, and other profound lawyers of the State Jenkin Whiteside was at that day considered at the head of the bar of the State, and his oddities and peculiarities caused much gossip. He had an old white horse, it was said, he rode; and without riding this horse to court his mind was not at ease, and he could not gain a suit. Much such nonsense was told of him. It was on the i8th of June, in this year, that war was de clared against Great Britain; and all Tennessee was excited to the utmost This State is justly enritled to the honor it has uniformly maintained of patriotism and the volunteering spirit to defend the rights of the nation "in the deadly breach." Colonel Gaines recruited a regiment this year in Tennessee, and the martial music, and the training of the new soldiers, occupied the streets, and attracted the attention of the citizens .of Knoxville aU this summer. The ensuing winter, this regi ment remained at old Fort Massacre, on the Ohio, and in the •spring made its appearance on the Canada frontier, where it General Gaines, and other officers, gained immortal honor in the many battles which they fought with the enemy. MY OWN TIMES. 8l I had pretty well recovered my health and vigor, and my ardent predilection for the sport and amusement of racing seized me again. I attended some races in Tennessee, and ran one myself Mr. Miller and friends boasted that he could beat any one for a hundred dollars running a foot-race for a hundred yards. I told a gentleman, Colonel Howell, that I thought I could beat MUler running, and that if he would bet eighty dollars I would go in twenty. The race was made, and I won the bet. " I paid off with my twenty dollars some debts I owed in town, and that was, I be lieve, the last foot-race I ran for a wager. My preceptor and my staid friends did not approve of it, but they excused it in me, as it was, they presumed, about the last of my wild back woods education oozing out. CHAPTER XXVIII. The War of 1812 with Great Britain and her Indian Allies in Illinois. — Hostile Spirit of the Indians. — Rangers around the Frontiers. — Forts. — Troops Organized. — Camp Russell. — Extended Frontier. — Dixon, his Warriors. — Gomo, a Chief, met Gov. Edwards in CouncU. — Tecumseh at Vincennes. — -Murders Committed. — Hill's Fort At tacked. — Belleview Defended. — Fort La Motte Erected above Vin cennes. — Rangers Estabhshed. — Col. Russell. — Massacre at Chicago. — Taylor's Battle at Fort Harrison. — A Pottawatomie Warrior Killed a White Man on a Boat. For many years before the declaration of war against Eng land, the Indians all around the Western frontiers showed a hostile spirit and each year, for several years, that hostile feel ing increased. In 1811 — as it was stated in a previous chapter — the Indian tribes surrounding the territory of lUinois became quite hostile and murdered some few citizens. Under these circumstances, the citizens organized companies themselves, without the order of government, for their own defence. In 1811, the frontiers were guarded by mounted men from the Mississippi, at the point where the city of Alton now stands, to Shoal Creek, and the Kaskaskia River. Forts were erected in this year as far out as the present site of Carlyle, and continued south on the frontiers down the Kaskaskia and the Mississippi. Some garrisons for defence were established on the frontiers of the settlements on the Wabash River up as high as Vincennes, and for some miles above. One of the interior and most exposed forts was erected by the Jordan family, on Muddy River, near the place where the old Fort Massacre trace crossed the stream. All the interior of the territory and all north was a wilderness, crowded with the Indian enemy. The settlements 6 82 MY OWN TIMES. were weak and sparse towards the mouth of the Ohio, so that the intercourse between the northern and southern Indians was- not disturbed. The spirit of war and defiance was breathed from one end of the territory to the other, and a settled determination was made to remain in the country, or die. Some few may have abandoned the country for fear of the war, but ten immigrated to it for one that left it Good rifles rose to^ the price of fifty and seventy-five dollars. In the forepart of the year 1812, several mounted companies were organized, and ranged over the country as far as Vincen nes, and in the commencement of the year. Gov. Edwards established Fort Russell, a few miles north-west of the present town of Edwardsville. He made this frontier post his head quarters, and fortified it in such manner as to secure the mili tary stores and munitions of war. This fort was not only the appui of military operations, but was also the resort of the talent and fashion of the country. The Governor opened his court here, and presided with the character that genius and talent always bestow on the person possessing them. The cannon of Louis XIV, of France, were taken from old Fort Chartres, and with them and other military decorations, Fort Russell blazed out with considerable pioneer splendor. But a peep behind the curtain .showed a weak and extended frontier from the site on the Mississippi where Alton now stands, down the river to the mouth of the Ohio, and up that stream and the Wabash to a point many miles above Vincennes, with a breadth of only a few miles at places. This exposed outside was three or four hundred miles long, and the interior and north inhabited by ten times as many hostile and enraged savages as there were whites in the country. The British garrisons on the north furnishing them with powder and lead and malicious counsels, and the United States leaving the country to its own defences, presented a scene of distress that was oppressing. In the spring of 1812, Captain Ramsey had a small company of regular troops stationed at Camp Russell, and they remained there only for a few months. These were the only regulars that saw Camp Russell during the war. In the commencement of the war, the Indian traders reported the fact that Colonel Dixon, at Prairie du Chien, had engaged all the warriors of the north, and around the prairie, to descend the Mississippi and exterminate the settlements on both sides of the river. This was the plan of the campaign, but the English needed the Indians more in Canada, and they were brought to that section, and thereby our country was saved from a great effusion of blood. Many citizens who knew of the design of Dixon's warriors actually fortified their houses in the interior of the country, not far from Kaskaskia, and some removed their families to Kentucky. Dixon was a man of MY OWN TIMES. 83 talents, and had, as an Indian trader, great influence with the Indians. He had the power to march the Indians to any point he pleased. _ In April, 18 12, Gomo, the Pottawatomie chief, with many of his band, and some Chippewas, met Governor Edwards in councU at Cahokia. The wild men exercised the most di plomacy, and made the Governor believe the Indians were for peace, and that the whites need dread nothing from them. They promised enough to obtain presents, and went off laugh ing at the credulity of the whites. In August, the previous year, the celebrated Tecumseh at tempted to practise a worse game on Governor Harrison, at Vincennes, but the Governor had been for a series of years their agent, and knew well the Indian character. It is probable Tecumseh intended to murder Harrison in council, but the quick discernment of the Governor prevented it. This great Indian judged the whites by himself He supposed if Governor Harri son was removed, none other was capable to take his place. When Tecumseh fell in battle, no other warrior was equal to the task to supply the place of this great man. Tecumseh was not blood-thirsty or brutal in his passions. His hatred to the whites governed all his actions, and this hostilty arose entirely from his patriotism to preserve his nation and country from destruction. I have been always sorry that the war in which the Indians engaged against us made it necessary to destroy Tecumseh, as he was the greatest man in either of the armies in which he was slain. Many murders were committed by the Indians on the whites during the first year of the war. In the summer of 1812, Andrew Moore and son were killed by the Indians