YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

FROM THE COLLECTION MADE BY
CHARLES SHELDON B.A. 1890
OF BOOKS ON NATURAL HISTORY
EXPLORATION • HUNTING & FISHING

GIFT OF FRANCIS P. GARVAN
B.A. 1897

Fold out

TRAVELS IN
EGYPT AND NUBIA, SYRIA,
AND
ASIA MINOR;
[ DURING THE YEARS
1817 & 1818.

BY
THE HON. CHARLES LEONARD IRBY,
AND
JAMES MANGLES,
COMMANDERS IN THE ROYAL NAVY.

^rtnttfc fov ^rtbate Dtetrifoution.

LONDON:
T. WHITE AND CO. PRINTERS, 2, JOHNSON'S COURT,
FLEET STREET.

MDCCCXXIII.

PREFACE,

On the 14th of August, 1816, the Hon.
Charles Leonard Irby and James Mangles,
Commanders in the Royal Navy, left Eng
land, with the intention of making a tour on
the continent. This journey they were led
to extend far beyond the original design.
Curiosity at first, and an increasing admira
tion of antiquities as they advanced, carried
them at length through several parts of the
Levant, which have been little visited by
modern travellers, and gave them more than
four years of continued employment.
Soon after their return to England, in the
end of the year 1820, they were induced to
transcribe a selection of the letters which.
they had addressed during their absence
to their families in England, as the most

IV PREFACE.

convenient mode of satisfying the inquiries
of numerous friends.
Among those, who by expressing them
selves interested with the narrative, sug
gested the step which has now been taken,
of printing some copies for private.distribu-
tion, was a gentleman well acquainted with
the Turkish provinces described in the fol
lowing pages, and who has lately edited the
Travels of the lamented Burckhardt through
the same countries. He was not only so
obliging as to suggest such corrections in
the language of the original manuscript as
must always be necessary in such circum
stances, previously to printing, but more
especially in the case of persons quite
unexperienced in authorship : but he has
further permitted the maps which he
published in the two volumes of Burck-
hardt's Travels, and in the second volume
of Mr. Walpole's collection, to be used in

PREFACE.

the construction of the geographical deli
neation, which accompanies the present
volume. The only material point in which
this map diners from those authorities, is in
the position of a few points, in the southern
part of Syria, the latitude and longitude
of which have been communicated since the
publication of Burckhardt's Syria, by the
Earl of Belmore and Captain Corry, of the
Royal Navy, who made the observations.
To these gentlemen, therefore, the au
thors have lo express their obligations,
as well as to H. W. Beechey and John
Rennie, Esquires, who have kindly fur
nished them with five original Sketches in
Nubia.
London, July, 1823.

CONTENTS.

LETTER I.

Oun party and the first object of interest described. Departure
in a boat from Philse. The crew characterised, including
Hassan nicnamed the blue devil. Saracenic buildings in pic
turesque situations. Piles of stones on elevated places, to guide
the caravans from the interior of Africa, &c. Supposed boun
dary between Egypt and Nubia. The different natives and their
languages. Arrive at Kalapsche. Inspect the temple. Description there
of. Unusual appearance of crocodiles in this part of the Nile.
Are mistaken for physicians and induced to prescribe. Found
the purple acassia. Peculiar manner of taking water fowl by
swimming. Bathe. ' Belzoni bitten in the foot by a water lizara.
Trickery of a native of Senaar.
Arrive near Koroskoff. Picturesque appearance of the islands
and rocks in the Nile, in that vicinity. Visited by a messenger
from Halleel Cashief, requesting presents. Refused. Stop at
Offidena. The natives handsome and well made, but very dark.
Arrive at Deny. Apply to Daoud and Halleel Cashief, sons of
Hassan, he being at Dongola, for leave to open the temple at
Ebsambal. The Nubian dance. Avarice and treachery of the
crew. Pass Ibrim. A sad picture of ruins and desolation.
Comparative limits of former travellers in these parts considered.
Arrival at Ebsambal. Renewal of application to Daoud and Halleel.
Interesting appearance of the Dongola caravan, with numbers
of camels laden with provisions. Remarkable appearance of the
Mockatem mountains; their pyramidal form and termination.
Stop opposite the village of Farras. Fine ruins of a large Nubian
cityj Several remarkable temples with hieroglyphics. Greek
and Roman ornaments. Instance of shyness in crocodiles. Kill
a torpedo with daggers. Several cameleons taken ; their ver
satile appearances and peculiar faculties of catching flies.
Arrive at Farras. Bargain with the servants of Hassan Cashief
for asses and camels to visit the Second Cataract. Arrival there
at. Fresh instances, of artifice displayed by the boatmen. Con
sequent determination to proceed on foot. Herds of the ga
zelle, a nimble animal resembling the deer. Survey and descrip
tion of the Second Cataract. The great extent and velocity of
" the rapids." Striking and contrasted beauty of the mountain

V1U CONTENTS.
scenery. The natives' great dread of the dark. Difficulties of
crossing to Elpha. Disappointment in the supply of the animals
bargained for at Farras. Mutinous and desperate conduct of the
boatmen. Serious 'interference of the natives repulsed by our
firmness. Return to Ebsambal. Communication from Daoud
Cashief not arrived. The crew here sued for pardon, pleading
the custom of such demands upon strangers. Visit to, and de
scription of a small temple excavated in the mountain opposite
Ebsambal; curious Greek paintings, &c. Gratifying arrival of
a message from Daoud Cashief at Derry to ascertain our identity
as the favoured English for whom Hassan Cashief had promised
to open the temple. Deceptive conduct of two natives in the
promised introduction to a temple in the mountains. The crew
draw their daggers on our servants; severe reproof of their
sanguinary conduct, and our lives threatened in revenge Daoud
and Halleel arrive; their persons described. Partake of refresh
ment. Give presents to the two Cashiefs. Halleel offended ;
sulky and inexorable at not having a gun amongst his-portion
similar- to Daoud's. A sheep killed by Daoud to regale us, who
apologises for his brother's absence and indiscretion. Artful
scheme of Halleel to obtain more presents. Halleel perseveres
for a gun. Gave him one of ours as a peace-offering. The
Farras man, who threatened us at Elpha, suddenly annoys us.
Procure his reprimand from the Cashiefs. Agree on terms for
clearing the access to the temple, and proceed thither with fifty
men. The exterior of the temple and its situation, enveloped in
sand, described. Obstacles to our progress. Selfish song of the
men. Their indolence. Contract with the cashiefs for the comple
tion of the work. ,One hundred men employed. Boat's crew
renew their entreaties for forgiveness. Consequent reconciliation.
They work badly, and exact half the agreed terms. Despair of
success. Encourage them to proceed. Complain to the Cashiefs,
who promise more men. Retire disappointed to our boats.
Renew our labours with fifty men only, and those idle. None of
the leaders except Mouchmarr, an Arab, an elderly servant of the
cashiefs present, who designated his masters as robbers, and the
whole of/ the tribe of the Barbarins as thieves. Daoud arrives.
Complain of the laziness of the men. Increased exertion pro
mised. Remainder of the terms insisted on. Persist in a refusal.
Great discontent excited thereby. Meanness of Halleel in begging
Mr. gait's pipe, the janissary's silk waistcoat, and our Greek
servant's sabre, &c- All refused. Another unsuccessful attempt
to get presents, by one of the chiefs, sanctioned by the cashiefs.
Hassan excites us to return to Philae to repair the boat, asserting
it to be leaky ; steadfastly decline till the accomplishment of
our task. First day of the moon, Ramadan, or Turkish fast ; total
abstinence from food. Halleel's third fruitless application for Mr.
S.'spipe. His anger and abrupt departure. Farewell visit to Daoud's
tent, announcing our intention of persevering to gain access to the

CONTENTS. IX
temple. His dissuasion therefrom. Promise to apprise him
in due time to share the gold, his anticipated treasure; ¦his
tacit consent. -Enjoin good conduct to the crew but proceed
without them to the temple. Strip, six in number, and com
mence, determined by our own labour to affect this Herculean
task. Make rapid progress. Joined and assisted by the
astonished crew. Personal . inconveniences from \ our toils.
Encourage our men. Retire to our boat gratified at the
successful prospect. Unexpected visit in the night from Daoud:
Exchange presents, and receive assurances of his favour and
early assistance.
Vigorously proceed for our object under excessive heat. Crew
refuse to work. Persevere and make great progress without
them. Visited, while at work, by Halleel. Desperate affray
between our janissary and Hassan. To our great joy Halleel
suddenly disappears. Further artifices of the men. The Darfur
caravan passes, with four thousand camels laden with gum,
ivory, and ostrich feathers, on its way to] Cairo. Extraordinary
exactions upon them by the Mamelukes at Dongola. Descrip
tion of the Jelabs conducting the caravan.
Re-commence with encreased strength, having sixty-four men.
Present from Daoud of Nubian clothes, &c. His fruitless attempt
to beg a pipe for his master. Renew our labours. Pleasing
discovery of a seated statue^ in a mutilated state, near the door.
Unfinished and discouraging appearances of the exterior on
further progress. Numbers of labourers offer their assistance.
Retire in consequence to avoid disputes, leaving tickets for thirty
only with old Mouchmarr. His infamous breach of trust in pur
loining ten of them. Violent quarrel among two parties for
preference. Redouble our efforts, with twenty men, but only
three instruments. The form thereof delineated. Observe the
traeks of snakes and other reptiles on the sand. Sudden
appearance of forty armed men. Mouchmarr and his party
instantly fly to the mountains. Their deception and artful
attempt to levy contributions. After their departure discover
that they were Mahommed and Ali Cashiefs with their forces,
who were engaged in war of extermination with Daoud and
Halleel. Ridiculous return of Mouchmarr, with his matchlock
and a few of the Ebsambal people; relates his account of the
warfare. Find that Mahommed and Ali intercept our supplies. .
. Crew insolently withhold our ludri for their own use. Forcibly
repossess ourselves thereof. About fifty men employed ; annoyed
by their skulking and idleness. Troublesome application of
immense numbers of men. Decline their assistance, and they
carry off the implements and threaten our crew. Aided by the
assistance of twenty-three persons, proceed to our employment.
Arrival of a Mameluke from Dongola, reporting the misery. pre
vailing there. Half of the supplies of bread we had paid for
withheld. Exorbitant increase of the price of provisions. Set to

X CONTENTS.
work with only two assistants and the crew. Animating song
of a workman to his fellow-labourers. A spy from Daoud
arrives, dissuading the men from their work. Falsely reports
that the Grand Seignior had superseded the Pashaw in his
government at Cairo; treat him with derision. Mouchmarr
states his prohibition from supplying us with bread, or farther
assistance, and takes his leave. Pursue our operations with only
our sailors and Mameluke. An Ebsambal man comes to offer
supplies. Refuse all assistance.
Encourage our crew for their encreased exertions. Sailors
next day ask leave to go to Ebsambal to get bread. Hassan
steals our doura; dispossess him of it. A milkman re-supplies us
by stealth; a real luxury. The reis appears with a present of
spirits distilled from dates, from the wife of Daoud. Decline the
present and pay for it. Thermometer 1 1 2 Fahrenheit in the shade.
Cheering indications of a door. Former apprehensions from
unfinished appearances now cleared up. Hassan impudently
demands pay for the crew. Mameluke departs on a raft for
Cairo. Hassan' sends to the cashief to apprize him of our
progress. Resume our labours with the crew and two strangers,
and at sunset come to the corner of the door. Sailors exult,
with cries of backsheeish, and redouble their efforts in the
prospect of our promised reward. Sailors beg our cook's waist
coat and the Greek's gown. Proceed to work without the crew,
at moonlight, who load, us with abuse; desire us to quit the
boat, and threaten to leave us. Belzoni frightens them. Their
abject homage on his appearance ; bring up all our arms and
ammunition. Hassan threatens to murder the janissary. At
work by candle-light. The crew, all armed and dressed in full
costume, peremptorily repeat their demands, with savage impre
cations and gestures. Try to appease them; meanwhile the
janissary squeezes himself through a hole and enters the temple ;
discovered by the crew, who now strip and work with
alacrity. Hassan discloses to our cook their lawless power.
Attain our primary object, and enter the temple. Obtain some
statues, sphinxes, &c. of calcareous stone. Ebsambal peasants
astonished at our success; anticipate the convenience of the
temple as a place of retreat from the Bedouins. Contract with
Hassan for bread and meat. Take internal and external dimen
sions of the temple. Receive a supply of provisions of one-
third more than their worth. Effect the shipment of the statues
and distribute forty piastres, the promised backsheeish. The
splendid exterior of the temple described. Four beautiful
colossal figures, above sixty feet high, sculptured in the best
style of Egyptian art, and in the highest perfection. The
interior consists of fourteen capacious apartments. Its stupen
dous and magnificent embellishments, its paintings, its sculpture,
and its numerous valuable specimens of antiquity. Extreme
heat of the temple, similar to the feeling and effect of the

CONTENTS. XI
hottest vapour-bath. Visit a smaller temple, like the former,
cut out of the rock. Description of it. Its colossal and other
statues, some of upwards of twenty-five feet high; small female
figures ornamenting the front. Its interior, consisting of three
principal apartments, its antique sculpture, its ornamented walls,
and other objects of exquisite beauty and interest. Start on our
return. Mahommed and Ali Cashief, with their predatory band,
hail us and inquire as to the money found in the temple. Call
on Daoud. Another instance of his guilty duplicity. He gives
us provisions. Promises to keep the temple open for Mr. Salt.
Arrive at Derry. Visit, with candles, another temple cut out of
the rock; its ruinous state, and dismal appearance described.
A visit from Halleel, with presents. He is disappointed in
expected requital.
Visit the temple at Armada, in the desert, opposite to Derry.
Description thereof. In the interior are'modern Greek paintings
and ancient Egyptian figures. Arrive at Sabour and inspect its
temple; the edifice and statues much dilapidated- Desperate
eonduct of Hassan,' who attempts to stab Belzoni. Captain
Irby wounded in the effort to disarm him. The reis and one
of the crew quit the boat. Hassan returns next day, wanting
us to re-land the statues and leave them behind. Admonish and
threaten to bring him to account at Assuan. Mameluke
rejoins us, having been robbed of his money and raft. Proceed
to the small unfinished temple at Offidena. Greek or Roman
figures, in entaglio, found on the walls of the neighbouring
ruins. Importuned by the natives for backsheeish. Bid for
a statue previously noticed, but without effect. Visit the temple
of Dekki, also in an unfinished state. Traces of the artist's
skill in the interior (in basso-relievo) ; the entrance covered with
Greek commemorative inscriptions. Visit the temple of Garbe
Girshe, excavated in the rock. Natives insolent, and of a murder
ous character. The building much mutilated, and the sculpture
bad and heavy.
Inspect the tendple of Garbe Dendour, built in front of a rock;
small and unfinished. Pass Garbe Merie. See the ruins of
a temple, with hieroglyphics. Land at Kalapsche. Proceed to
the temple. The assembled natives, armed with daggers, refuse
our entrance. Ask for money. Rashness of the janissary
fatal to our object, nearly so to him ; rescue him, and return to
our boat under showers of abuse and stones. . Fired over their
heads to shew our forbearance. One villain frightened, by a
pointed musket from his attempt to plunder the boat in our
absence. Indifference of the crew. Fidelity of the Greek servant.
Insolent self-will of guides and interpreters. Repass the gates of
Nubia. The waters of the Nile very high. The crew ask for
backsheeish for passing the rapids. Driven by the current past
the two temples of Teffa. One dedicated to Isis now used as a
cow-house, the other unfinished.

Xll CONTENTS.
Visit Hindaw and various ruins in that quarter; extensive
wall; stone quarries ; Roman and Greek commemorative in
scriptions and sculpture. Inspect the temple of Daboude,
altogether unfinished, two handsome moorelithe cases of red
granite adorn the sanctuary. Hassan, the Philae murderer,
deserts ths boat on our approach there. Arrive at Philae. First
Cataract. Description of the edifices ; their style and sculptures.
French inscriptions on a pylon, indicative of the extent of their
Egyptian conquests under Buonaparte. Unique symbol of the
elephant in the portico of the temple. Remarkable imperfection in
sculpture, in figures of Isis, on this island. Observations upon the
natives of Nubia ; their unprincipled habits ; the country in general.
Frequent appearance of ancient towns buried in rubbish. Nu
bians a distinct race from the Arabs ; their extraordinary super
stition. Curious mode of smoking. Strange manner of killing
personal vermin. Their habits and costume. Their manu
facture. Platters made from the date tree.
. Bargain with the suspicious crew. Pay exacted in advance for
conveyance down the Cataract. Receive a pilot and eight addi
tional hands to conduct us down. Hassan disappears, dreading our
report of him to the Aga. A two hours' passage down the rapids.
Scenery wild and romantic. The boat strikes against the rocks. Self-
imagined courage of the crew. Reach Assuan, the ancient Syene.
Visit the ancient granite quarries. Examine the column there,
curiously inscribed in Latin. Their ancient method' of cutting
pure masses of stone. The ancient road paved with granite. Eng
lish translation of the inscription. Historical remark s on the origin
of the quarries. Examine the mummy-cases and boxes of sacred
Egyptian emblems. Curious specimens of carved-work.
Assuan uninteresting, a dirty and ill-built place. The Aga visits
us. Complain to him of the crew. He pronounces them noto
rious rascals. Their previous desertion. Visit Elephantina,
celebrated by Denon. Its pleasing and luxurious appearance.
Ruins of the ancient town and several temples. Engage a boat
to Thebes. Inspect Koum Ombo, the ancient Ombos. Remains
of two temples on a promontory of the Nile's eastern shore;
description thereof; peculiar structure of one of them. Barren
appearance of the neighbouring country. Observe the large
fertile island of Mansouria, and a smaller one in the middle ofthe
Nile. Saracenic ruins of brick-work. Traces of ruins of the an
cient town. Extensive view from the promontory. Djibel
Selsilis, mountains of the Chain ; tradition thereof. Several
small temples, excavated from the rocks, of calcareous stone.
Statues in alto-relievo. Tasteful specimen of architecture.
Numerous extensive quarries. Reach Edfoo, the ancient Ap-
polinopolis Magna ; its large temple ; prodigiously high pylon.
Sculptures and antiquities described. Striking contrast with the
paltry modern town of Edfoo. Recent and interesting discoveries of
emeralds by a French mineralogist. Stop at El Cab, the ancient

CONTENTS. XUl
Eleethias, splendid ruins. Curious antiquities of agricultural routine
and other miscellaneous objects of interest in entaglio. Another
small temple. Reach Esneh, the ancient Latapolis. A magnificent
Egyptian temple, supported by twenty-four columns, with nine
capitals, Obscured by modern houses. Ruins of a small temple on
the site Aphrodtlopotis. Another on the opposite side of the river.
Erment, the ancient Hermonlis. Ruins of four temples visible.
Highly finished symbolic representations in basso-relievo. Re
mains of an ancient basin and Nilometer. Arrive at Luxor, part
of the ancient Thebes. Lodge in one of the temples. Mag
nificent obelisks. Similarity of the hieroglyphics to those at
Ebsambal, and to those of Cleopatra's Needles at Alexandria.
Visit the tombs of Gourna. Deceptive practices of the natives
in the concealment of the antiquities. Their party attachments
to French and English travellers. Description of the tombs, and
thejr rich and exquisite sculpture. Account of the mummy pits.
the subjects therein deposited. Inspect a newly discovered mag
nificent tomb; its fine paintings, in fresco, and other curiosities.
The valley of Gourna, and its antiquities described. Visit a
temple near Medinet-Aboo. Return to Luxor. Examine the
statues and temples at Memnonium. Farewell visit to the tomb
of the kings. Scorpions taken by our guide. Grand view from
the Lybian mountains. Remarks upon ancient Thebes.
Departure for Cairo. Stop at Tentyra ; swim the canal, and
revisit the temple of Isis. Astronomical table, and complete lunar.
system on the ceilings delineated. Egyptian mode of calculating
the year. Stop at Siout. Visit Dr. Marouky and Mr. Brine.
Stop at Houarti, the village of our crew ; infatuation of the
women to procure them families. Ruins of a city m the Mocka-
tem. A range of catacombs and temples in the rocks. Arrive
at Cairo. Mr. Salt's urbane reception of us. Shave our beards
and resume our European costume. Proceed with Mr. Salt, Col.
Stratton, and Mr. Fuller, to the Pyramids. Account of the
Great Sphinx, &c. Return to Grand Cairo, a mean, ill-built
city. Description of its wretched inhabitants. Its citadel, govern
ment, and customs. Account of the massacre of the Mamelukes.
The varied appearances of the Nile, and Egypt generally. Visit
the fertile island of Rhoda. Egyptian agriculture. Boulack, the
port of Cairo, and its extensive commerce. Contemplate our
departure. Renew our supplies of provisions, clothes, and arms.
Our expenditure. Letters of introduction from Mr. Salt. In
teresting tomb at Radimore, covered with beautiful paintings.

LETTER II.
Departure from Cairo. An Arab, with three camels, conducts
us to Jaffa. Pass the obelisk of Mataria, the site of Heliopolis,
and other ruins. Our route through the desert. Stop at a village;

XIV CONTENTS.
proceed again at night. Howling of wild beasts. Joined at a
village by a man with a loaded camel. Skirt the desert, and
pass richly cultivated plains. Selahieh, the last village on the
borders ¦ of Egypt. Recruit with water and provisions for the
desert. Joined by eight persons on asses, on their pilgrimage
to Mecca. Leave the village. Picturesque appearance of the
desert. Contrast thereof with Nubia. Quails, partridges, &c.
in abundance. Pass the lake Damietta and ruins of Pelusium.
Desert more hilly. Many carcasses and detached bones of
camels and asses, and some wells of indifferent water. Make
bread. Approach a bay on the coast. Meet a small armed
caravan. Backsheeish demanded and refused. Pass over a
plain covered with salt. At breakfast a stranger demands
backsheeish. A party of Tarabeen Arabs levy a contribution on
our guides. Our arms preserve us from a like exaction. Arrive
at El-Arish. Description thereof. Quit it by night, followed
by an Arab, whom we request to leave us. Pass some wells, a
Sheik's tomb, a Mahommedan burial place, flocks of sheep and
goats, peasants and laden camels. Our arms protect us. Pass
ruins, and arrive at Haneunis on the confines of Syria. Descrip
tion of it and its inhabitants. Our route from Cairo. Proceed
through a barren country to Esdier. Frantic grief of a woman,
who had quarrelled with her husband. Proceed from Esdier to
Gaza through richly cultivated plains, and thence through groves
of olives and open country. Pass several villages. Arrive at
Asdoud. Description of a Turkish khan. Curiosity of the
natives of Asdoud. Suppose us to be doctors. Give them some
balsam of Mecca. They heg some of our hair to burn, refuse it
and laugh at their superstition. Their gratitude. Reasons for
not proceeding from Gaza to Jaffa by way of Ashkelon. Quit
Asdoud. The country open and little Cultivated. Pass ruins
of an aqueduct; well of poisonous water. Also Yabne the ancient
Jamnia. Cross the river El Rubin. Description of Sheikh
Rubin's tomb. Proceed over sand hills and along the sea beach
towards Jaffa. See Ramla and Loudd on our right.
Arrive at Jaffa, the ancient Joppa. Ludicrous appearance of
the British representative. His conduct. Description of Jaffa.
Generosity of the Aga. Anecdote of him. Leave Jaffa,
equipped, in an Arab suit of clothing, for the approaching
winter. Skirt the sea-beach. Pass Arsouf, the ancient Ap-
pollonias, on the left, and arrive at Cesarea. Description
thereof. Arrive at Tortura, the ancient Dora, and proceed
to Athlite. Situation and description of Athlite. Pass the foot
of Mount Carmel, and arrive at Caiffa, the ancient Hepha.
Ascend Mount. Carmel. Description of the convent. Elijah's
cave, &c. Beautiful view of Acre, &c. Descend to Caiffa.
Cross the brook Kishon and the river Belus. Arrive at Acre.
Lodge in the convent. Description of Acre. A religious
festival. Procure a firman from the Pashaw. Quit Acre, and

CONTENTS. XV
pass on to Zib. Applied to for medical -aid. Give them balsam
of Mecca. Gratitude of the Sheikh's son. Leave Zib, and pass
over Cape Blanco. Visit some ruins, and ascend the ladder of
the Tyrians, a picturesque spot. Descend the ladder and arrive
at Tsour, the ancient Tyre. Awful fulfilment of Scripture pro
phecies against Tyre, manifested in its present state.
Cross the Kasmia. Explore the ruins of several large cities.
Cross several dry torrents and a river ; its banks enriched with
flowers. Pass the ruins of a city, and arrive at Saida, the ancient
Sidon. Its immediate neighbourhood well cultivated. Visit the
convent Mar Elias AIzo, the usual residence of Lady Hester
Stanhope, with letters for her. Her ladyship absent, and residing
at castle Jeba, a more elevated spot in the mountains. Forward
her letters with a note. Her answer, requesting us to visit her
convent. Her costume and amiable generosity. Description of
Saida. Pass the ruins of an ancient town, and many sarcophagi,
over the promontory of Bayruth. Descend through plantations of
figs and mulberries to Bayruth, the ancient Berytus. Cross several
rivers, and over a rocky promontory. Description of the nahr el
Kelb. Sepulchre of St. George. . Superstition of the fishermen.
Cross the nahr Ibrahim, and arrive at Gebail, or Gibyle. De
scription thereof. Pass Batroun, the castle of Temseida, and arrive
at Tripoli. Situation and description. Visit the English Consul.
Visit the Cedars of Labanon and Baalbec, accompanied by Signior
Giuseppe Mazoliere. Description of the road.
Arrive at Eden, and at the Cedars. Situation and description of
the Cedars. Scriptural references to this country. The village
of Eden identified with the garden of God. Ascend to the crest
of Lebanon. Extensive view of the hills at its south-east
foot, Baalbec in the distance, and the sea to the westward. De
scription of the Bekaa Mathooalis. Descent from Lebanon,
excessively steep and rugged. Dismount, and walk the horses
down to the valley. Proceed over some rugged hills covered with
shrubs, to Yead. Arrive at Baalbec. Imposing grandeur of
the ruins: Quit Baalbec for Tripoli. Rainy weather ; stop at a
village for the night ; meet s ome peasants returning after an ineffec
tual attempt to cross the Lebanon ; the weather very bad, with
much snow. Shelter in a cave filled with peasants at the foot of
the mountain. Remove to a larger one, more exposed, and kindle a
fire for the night. Next morning fine weather. Ascend the moun
tain. Fear of the peasants to proceed before us. Approaching
the summit, the snow being deep, the horses fall. Reach the
summit with much difficulty. The cold excessive. Descend
through a great depth of snow to Eden. Our situation thought
dangerous, and public prayers offered up for our safety. Return
to Tripoli.^ Good quality of the Lebanon wine. Leave Tripoli
for Latachia. Stop at a khan near the nahr el Bered.
Arrive at Tortosa oppotite Ruad island. Description thereof.
The island of Ruad, the Arpad of scripture. Cross the nahr el

XVI CONTENTS.
Mulk. Stop at the village where Monsieur Boutin was killed.
The inhabitants refuse us shelter. Bivouack in the open air.
Pass Jebilee and reach Latachia, the ancient Laodicea- Its situa
tion and port described. Detained three days by the intrigues
of the Arab conductor. Arrive at Candele. Difficulty of find
ing Lourdee. Its situation close by the highest pinnacle of Mount
Cassius. Descend the north side of the mountains. Scenery
woody and wild.
Reach the banks of the Orontes near the site of the city and
groves of Daphne. Description thereof. Follow the banks
of the river ; beautiful scenery. River meanders between high hills,
and the road along precipices in the rocks. Enter the plain of
Suadeah. Difficulty in finding Suadeah. Guided by a peasant
across the river, up to the horses bellies. Suadeah a straggling
village. Civility and generosity of the Soubash. Proceed towards
Antioch. Rainy weather. Arrival at some cottages ; refused ad
mittance at three of them; our hospitable reception at a fourth;
present the mistress with a gold double Napoleon. Reasons for
giving it. -
Arrive at Antioch — its description. Arrive at Gesir Adid, and
cross the Orontes. The lake Aggi Dengis on the left. Arrive
at Bourkee, the site of a Roman town. The sepulchres described.
Pass several sites of ancient towns, castles, &c. ; proceed over the
rocky hills into the plain of Alaks. Stop at Tourneen. Arrive at
Aleppo. Good fortune in the adoption of our own route, though
advised by Sheik Ibrahim to take a northerly one. Arrive at
Mr. Barker's, the consul-general. Find Mr. Bankes there. Wait
for the Sukne caravan. Amusement during our stay at Aleppo.
Idea of visiting Bagdad frustrated by a letter received by the Dutch
consul. Sucltne caravan arrives ; dissuaded from going with it,
and urged to proceed by way of Hamah and Horns.

LETTER III.

Remarks on Aleppo ; its situation and buildings ; decorations
of the houses by Persian artists ; carved-work doors, &c. Re
semblance of the city to that ofAntioch; neatness of the butchers '
shops ; its society and manners. Depart for Hamah, our good
host accompanying us for two hours outside the town ; his kind
solicitude in our behalf; furnishes us with letters for advice and
assistance to Selim, the governor's secretary at Hamah ; and to
Scander, secretary to the Motsellim of Horns, also to Hadgi
Hassan, an old Turk, at that place, a great dealer with the Arabs.
Receive also Mr. Barker's letters to the Saraffs of the Pashaw of
Damascus to secure horses ; also, to Acre, Cyprus, and Smyrna ;
to_ Sir Robert and Lady Liston, and other persons of consider
ation, at Constantinople ; aids us also with printed documents, a
map, and money. May for the night at the khan Touman, a
spacious lodging, but crowded with caravans for ^Damascus and
Latachia. Proceed next day over naked plains in company with

CONTENTS. XVli
them ; stop at Sermein. View of mount Cassius covered with
snow on the right. Join a caravan bound to Hamah and Da
mascus, and proceed therewith. Pass a ruinous Turkish fortress,
enclosing a village. Custom of such circumvallations, on the
skirts of the desert accounted for. Meet an extensive caravan,
part of the hadj, or Mecca pilgrimage, returning from Da
mascus ; an interesting sight. The green flag (the prophet's
banner) flying ; the animals, a few camels, but chiefly horses and
mules, all with bells ; among them, the tackterwans, a curious
vehicle peculiar to the east ; description thereof.
Pass many divisions of the hadj ; the animals laden with the
pilgrims' private speculations. History of these customs. Com
mercial quickness of the peasants. Observe some Roman ruins
and sarcophagi. Pass the night in a very good khan. Proceed
in the morning ; Lebanon, a mass of snow, before us. Mount
Cassius shut in by the northern extremity of the Ansarian
mountains. Observe sites of many ancient towns, tanks, sarco
phagi, &c. much dilapidated ; an open country abounding with
gazelles and game. Sleep at khan Shekune, a good khan, but
crowded from the hadj. Pursue our route over the plains, pa
rallel with the range of the Ansarian mountains. Lebanon and
Antioch in sight. Descend gradually into a delightful vale, and
arrive at Hamah, on the west-bank of the Orontes> a winding
stream ; its banks fertile and picturesque. Take up our quarters
in a khan ; comparative description of these buildings, in the
towns and on the road side ; their terms of accommodation and
arrangements; also, the mode of travellers subsisting themselves. At
Hamah, receive a letter from Mr. Barker, by an express messenger
from Aleppo, with a firman from the Grand Seignior empowering
us to go with four servants through Syria and Cyprus, the island
of the Archipelago, &c. &c. to Constantinople, and insuring us
all requisite assistance and protection. Melancholy scene of
traffic in female slaves ; eleven of them brought from Georgia ;
their charming appearance ; wretched diet ; mode of conveyance,
and unnatural treatment ; witness a disgusting bargaining for one
about fifteen, by a rich old Turk ; agonizing grief of one of the
ill-fated girls, anticipating a separation from her sister and com
panions ; their destination, Damascus. Comparative accuracy of
Bruce and Volney, as to the Georgian and Circassian women.
Negociate with the Arabs to reach Palmyra ; our Maltese inter
preter meets with Pierre, in the employ of Lady H. Stanhope,
and the bearer of a present to Narsah, the chief of theAnnasee
Arabs ; Pierre professes his acquaintance with the Arab chiefs, his
attendance upon lady Hester to Palmyra, and his negotiation for
Mr. Bankes.who was so injuriously treated. Embarrassed by the
absence of Selim and Scahder, at Damascus ; resolution to wait
Selim's return. Discuss with Pierre, the customary charges to
travellers ; his trickery and suspected treachery. A Christian
from Homs offers his services ; doubt his sincerity, but decide to
b

XV111 CONTENTS.
avail Ourselves of them, and manoeuvre with Pierre ; weather-
hound three days.
Pierre visits us, surprised at our not having set out for Da
mascus. Introduces five Arabs to bargain for conduct to Pal
myra ; Sheikh Salee (their chief) nephew to Mahannah, a lad of
fourteen ; demands three thousand piastres for convoy ; treat them
all with derision ; they menace us with robbery ; lower their terms
to eight hundred, and quit us ; send them an offer of six hundred,
including the hire of camels ; payment on our safe return to Hamah.
Agree with us, only " for the love of Malaka," or queen, (their
title of Lady Hester Stanhope, from her liberal payment.)
Send to the Aga to ratify the treaty in writing; his conditional
responsibility ; resist their importunities for money in advance,
and depart from Hamah at dav-break. Pierre follows. Cross
the Orontes near the villages of Rastan, and the ancient Arethusia ;
description of them.
Arrive at Homs. Suspicious letter from the Sheikh Narsah to
obtain money ; penetrate the trick, resolve to walk, and call on
Narsah. Trifling of the guide ; he arrives, after three days, from
his chief Mahannah with three camels. Further detention for the
Motsellim's ratification of our bargain. Access to the governor
prevented from the recent decapitation of the pashaw. Arbitrary
proceedings of ,the Turkish government against suspected indivi
duals. Make partial payment to Hadji Hassan under stipulations.
The Motsellim's surprise at our confidence of safety with the
Arabs. Proceed with our three camels and conductors. Our
finesse to prevent probable robbery on the way.
Arrive at a Bedouin camp, and welcomed by both men and
women ; stop next day at another Arab camp, and equally well-
received. Pursue our journey, at an early hour, in an easterly
direction, but uncertain track. The Arab's economy of his time
on a journey. His rapid collection of fuel to prepare refreshment.
Dispatch our breakfast, in ten minutes, and proceed; quench our
thirst at a neighbouring rock, under the impatience of our guides ;
their affected vigilance and courage. Approach the camp of
Mahanna, in a valley. Observe children running down young
partridges with dogs. A wild boar hunt; escape of the formidable
animal with a single wound. Approach the Sheikh's tent. Old
Mahannah, his two sons Sheikh's Narsah and Hamed, with chiefs
from various camps assembled. Narsah's unmoved reception of
us ; accounted for his subsequent address. Enquires the reason of
English curiosity to see Palmyra; supposes it the search for
gold. Promise him the half of our chance.
Arrival of further Arab guests. Etiquette of the chiefs, and
mode of salutation. Narsah questions us about Buonaparte, and
the _ occupation of France by the allied troops. Recognize
Sheikh Hamody, the person who exacted upon, and confined
Mr. Bankes. His consciousness of impropriety. Regaled with
roasted partridges, and bread, dipped in butter and honey.

CONTENTS. XIX
Amusing customs while eating. Evening devotions, and curious
mode of ablution. Narsah's elaborate address to his circle about
some land. Its soporific effects on us. Refused permission to
depart in the morning, and desired by "the chief to join an
immense assemblage of Arabs at a breakfast banquet of rice and
camel's flesh. Our portion sent to us in a separate tent, con
jectures as to the course of such arrangement. Order and
decorum of the feast; mode of distributing the remains to the
people. Narsah summons us to his select circle. His whimsical
queries as to our customary diet. Mahannah makes signs to us
for money. Exchange our camels for dromedaries, and take
our leave, each having his conductor mounted behind him. One
of Narsah's men accompanies us as a guard on a white drome
dary finely decorated. Dreadful jolting of the animals. Sleep
in an Arab tent, we proceed on our destination, and arrive there
in the afternoon.
Imposing effect of the ruins of Palmyra, as seen from the
valley of the tombs. Picturesque beauty, and cheering contrast
of the scene with the lonely desert. Examine the antiquities
minutely. Survey the Arab village of Tadmor, and Temple of
the Sun. Mutilated state of its chief ornaments. Our disap
pointment in the inferiority of the architecture and sculpture of
Palmyra. Description thereof. The tombs more interesting;
their merits, as works of art, compared with those of Egypt. Much
salt in the vicinity, a lucrative branch of commerce. Return
from Palmyra and sleep, as usual, in an Arab tent. Pusilla
nimity of our Arab convoy. Pass parties of Mahannah's peo
ple, armed with spears, &c. Their inquisitiveness. Reach his
camp at night. Mahannah deprives our poor Arabs of the salt
they had purchased at Palmyra. Scheme of Narsah to obtain a
new dress from us. Declares his intention to write a letter to
the. King of England, and charges us with one to " his dear
friend Lady Hester." Their various titles, and uniform venera
tion of that Lady. Difficulty of obtaining a draught of water at
starting. Pursue our course and get benighted. Bivouack in
the open air. Timidity of the Arabs to make a fire. Lay down
between the camels. Deprived of sleep from the intensity of
the cold. Proceed at day break; interesting sight of the re-
movel of a camp. Get a good breakfast, off lentiles and bread,
at a small camp. Novel appearance of the ground furrowed up
by wild boars.
Arrive at Homs. Pleased with our guides, give them volun
tary backsheeish, and charge them with the present of a turban
to the Sheikh of Tadmor. General opinions of the Arabs.
Remarks on their singular hospitality, habits, manners, customs,
and comparative happiness. Rest a short time at Homs ; proceed
through a mountainous country, rounding the point of Anti-
Lebanon, and in three days view the plain of Damascus.
Arrive at the convent of Terra Santa in that city. Luxuriant

XX CONTENTS.
fertility of its vicinity and surrounding country. Sensible com
forts of a bed, after thirty-eight days' privation thereof. Visit
the place of the vision of St. Paul. The house of Ananias, &c.
Shum, or Shem, the ancient name of Damascus. Scriptural
references as to this spot, &c. Friendly offices of the Pashaw's
Physician, procured by Mr. Barker's letter. Obtain another
firman for the Pashalic, and a letter to the Governor of
Jerusalem, for guides to Mount Sinai. Meditated route to
Constantinople. Find a letter left by Mr. Bankes ; with infor
mation about the ancient Abilah, his hopes of our joining him at
this place. Our mutual disappointment, &c.

LETTER IV.
Depart from Damascus, follow the road to Jacob's bridge
on the Jordan, between the lakes Houle and Tiberias. Stop at
the khan of the village of Sasa. Pass through a rich plain to
the westward for Panias. Traces of an ancient paved way,
supposed the Roman road leading to Caesarea Philippi. Djebail
Sheikh (Anti-Lebanon) on our right, a deep snow, almost impas
sable ; a fine plain at the foot of Djebail Sheikh. A conspicuous
tomb in the valley. The source of the Jordan considered. A
singularly beautiful lake, called by Arrowsmith " Birket-el-Ram,"
by Josephus " Phiala." Further authorities as to the source of
the Jordan. Fine coup d'oeil. A hill to the S. W., the great
Saracenic castle near Panias. The plain of Jordan, &c. A
verdant country. Remarkable difference of climate from that of
Damascus, &c. Cheering indications of spring. Enter Panias.
Picturesque course of the river. Ruins of ancient walls on its
banks. Town and environs described. Opinions as to the
ancient Panias, afterwards Caesarea Philippi; its extent, and
other antiquities. Take the diversion of shooting.
Leave Panias, directed to follow the Jordan to lake Houle.
Explore various fords. Cross the Jordan. Nearly lose the
horses in a swamp. Reach the road to Safot at the foot of the
hills. Intended day's journey shortened by the past difficulties.
Stop at a village near lake Houle. Ascend an acclivity to Safot ;
pass some Roman ruins in a village. Grand and luxuriant pros
pect of the lakes of Houle and Tiberias, with part of the plain of
the Jordan. Description of Safot, its castle, and fine approaches.
Proceed towards Tiberias (the ancient Japhet). Pass the night at
an old ruined khan, near trie village of Madjdala. Dreadfully
bitten and marked by a red vermin. Disgusting prevalence of
other personal vermin in this country. The natives deem it " the
curse of God on them." Bugs numerous, here and in Egypt.
Shrubby and romantic country. Pass a picturesque cliff, with
numerous caves occupied by goatherds. Arrive at Tiberias. De
scription of the modern town, on the lake of Gennesaret ; its

CONTENTS. XXI
mural enclosure and towers. Fine reliqiles of the ancient town ;
also of the famous hot (mineral) baths of Tiberias. Their ex
traordinary degree of heat; experiments therein. A Turkish
bath, the resort of the Jews, and a Roman sepulchre, supposed
by them to be the " tomb of Jacob." Remains of Vespasian's for
tifications. Description of the lake Tiberias. "The miraculous
draught of fishes," and other gospel allusions considered.
Lodge in the church, under an Arab priest, "identified as the
house of St. Peter." Exchange the sacred roof, for the open
court, on account of the fleas. Proverbial saying of the natives
upon these insects. The dearth of fish accounted for. Passage
of the Jordan through the lake, discernible.
Arrival of Mr. Bankes from a tour of the Haouran. Consent to
accompany him on his projected tour of the Dead Sea. Mr.
Bankes makes a short visit to Safot. Inspect Om Keis, (the an
cient Gadara) in the country of " the Gadarenes." - Leave Tibe
rias. Pass the site of the ancient Tanichea ; ruins of a Roman
bridge on the Jordan, and the village of Semmack. Cross the
river Yarmack, or Hieromax. Ancient site of " Amatha."
Kindly received by the sheikh of the natives inhabiting the
ancient sepulchres. Lodged in a large tomb. Arrangements
and description of its occupants. Scriptural recollections and
identity of this spot, the Necropolis ; its sepulchral and other
antiquities described.
Visit the hot springs in the plain of the Yarmack. Ruins of a
Roman bath at the source. Find sick persons thereat. Return
to Tiberias. Occupied four days in measuring the circuit of the
ancient city, and in making researches. Mr. Bankes discovers
and makes a plan of a curious ancient fortification. Elaborate
task of taking the measurements. Its appellation by the natives.
Historical remarks thereon. Roman ruins in the village of Erbed
at the foot of Mount Beatitude. Old convents of singular con
struction, between the village of Majdil, the ancient Magdala,
and the fortress Callah-el-Hammam. Ruins of six Roman baths,
of luke-warm mineral water, in the vicinity. Their form, pe
culiar construction, and surrounding 3cenery described. Swim
to the Scorpion rock. Leave Tiberias. Pass an extensive aque
duct, discover traces of the walls of Tarichea. Circuitous course
of the Jordan here. Pass a khan near a bridge of arches upon
arches. Observe a Roman mile-stone. Pavement of the ancient
road again perceivable. A sarcophagus on an eminence. A great
number of Arab camps on our way. Arrive at Bysan, supposed
the Bethshan of Scripture. Sacred memoranda thereof. Inspect
the ruins of this great city. Its famous theatre, now filled with
weeds, a primary object of interest. Remarks of Vitruvius on its
peculiar structure ; make a plan thereof. Discover twenty-four
skulls, and other human remains in a concealed vomitory. A
viper entwined in one of them. Examine the reliques of the
tombs, near the Acropolis, and remaining sarcophagi. A fine
Roman bridge, and near it, the paved way to the antient Ptole-

XXU CONTENTS.
mals, now Acre. A dilapidated bridge. Prostrate columns of
Corinthian architecture. Ruins of many subterranean granenes,
and other antique remains in the suburbs. Character of the
people. Leave Bysan. Take guides for fording the Jordan. A tomb
called " Sheikh Daoud," near the ford. Increased swiftness of
the river here. Bathe, and ascertain its breadth. Visit " Ta-
bathat Fahkil." Ruins of a modern village, of an ancient city,
near it. Of a fine temple by the water-side, and of columns of the
Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders. Excavations in the hills, the
probable Necropolis, and the spot where Elijah was fed by the
ravens. Sleep at Hallavvye. Arrive at the village Cafringee in
the valley of Adjeloun. Traces of a Roman town. Accompanied
by the principal Sheikh to the Callah-el-Rubbat. Visit an exten
sive natural cave, supposed the " cave of Mackkedah." Scrip
tural reference thereto- Description of the castle and its antiqui
ties. Find a Roman mile-stone in an old mosque, with fragments
of Roman sculpture. Village of Eugen, Roman tombs, and sar
cophagi. Extreme beauty of the country. The arbutus and other
curious trees. Further traces of the Roman road. More Roman
mile-stones. Village of Souf, its scenery and antiquities. Visit
the ruins of Djerash. Character of the natives of Souf. Revisit
Djerash escorted by the sheikh of Souf and ten armed men. Their
officiousness and self-importance. Return to Souf. The natives,
affected terror of the dytchmaan (enemy). Arrival of Mr. Bankes*
interpreter and a soldier, with a young prince of the Benesuckher
Arabs, and ten men armed and mounted. Ebn Fayes (the prince),
attended by his mace bearer. Description of the party and their
martial manoeuvres. Negociations with them for guidance and
protection on our intended route. Their refusal to go beyond
Kerek, and reasons thereof. Objects of our research as connected
with scripture history ; conclude with the Arab guard, pay down
the money, and proceed. Make further measurements and survey
at Djerash. Precautions necessary in dealing with the Arabs.
Pass the night at the village of Katty. The Arabs demand sub-
sistance money. Repeat our labours among the antiquities of
Djerash. Conducted to a camp of the Salhaan Arabs. Artifice
of the conductors, to induce a present of one of our horses. The
•Benesuckhers refuse to go to Djerash. Dispatch our baggage to
Katty, and proceed for Djerash. Pass a deserted village. "Me
ditated interception of us by six Salhaans. Reinforce ourselves,
and advance upon them with ridicule. Resume our operations at
Djerash. Measuring, drawing, and copying incriptions. Mr.
Bankes surprised at work, and robbed of his cap by an armed
Arab. Great quarrel at Katty between the Benesuckhers and the
villagers. The field abandoned by the former. Dishonesty, diser-
tion of the Damascus soldier. Completion of task at Djerash.
Description of its numerous splended ruins and antiquities, histo
rical remarks thereon.
Depart for Szalt. Cross the Zerka. Pass the night at a camp

CONTENTS. XXlll
of the Salhaans. Menacing scheme of the Benesuckhers to im
pede our progress and extort money. The prince's prime minister,
the chief rogue. The prince and his gang quit us for their own
camp. Proceed to Szalt. Ruins of a large square cyclopean
building in the valley Bayga. Pass some inclosed vineyards.
Prospect of Szalt, and its luxuriant neighbourhood. Description
of its choice fruits. Arrive, wet through. The people's reception
and treatment of us. Find many Christians. Conducted to the
house of one. Attempted extortion of " the minister." Dismiss
the gang. Their efforts and threats to draw us to their camp.
Our contempt of them. Insulted by the Mahommedan natives.
Accompanied by the sheikh's son and five guards on our re
searches. Ruins of the village Athan, and sarcophagi in the
rocks. Two old tombs at Gilhad Gilhood ; adoption of one as a
christian chapel. " The birth place of the prophet Elijah." Visit
several ruined villages. Szalt identified as Macnserus, where John
the Baptist was beheaded. Conciliatory invitation from the Bene-
suckher prince to his camp. Our ulterior plans and determination.
Quit Szalt amidst a great dispute among the people. Our inter
preter found concealed and crying behind a door. Rejoined by
the prime minister and two Benesuckhers ; their attempt to mis
lead us aided by the Turkish natives. Discover the right road to
Jerusalem, and proceed followed by the Arabs. View of the
Dead Sea, Jericho and the plain of Jordan. The two men leave
us; their supposed object. Divert our course towards the Jordan
and quit "the minister." Reach its banks. Ancient tombs. Swim
the river on horseback. Spoil all our papers. Misled by a la
bourer. Benighted and shelter in a shepherd's cave. Retrace
our steps to Wady Zeit. Received by the peasants armed ; mis
taken. Procure a guide for Nablous. The Arabs reported to be
in chace of us. Village of Bait Horage. Twenty-eight hours
without food. Village of Kaffer Baiter. Old Roman tombs and
tanks, dead bodies therein. Jacob's well. Nablous the ancient
Sychem. Ruins of a large town, tank, and sheikh's tomb, on mount
Gerizim. Visit Bethfethem and St. John's. Trick of the fire
in the Holy Sepulchre at the Greek Easter. Departure with
the pilgrims, the governor and an immense body of troops to the
Jordan. The Procession described. Arrival at the camp near
Jericho. Proceed to the Jordan. Pilgrims all bathing. Their
various ceremonies described. Attended by two Arabs, bathe in
the Dead Sea. Peculiar nature and effects of the water. Reach
Jerusalem. Meet Lord and Lady Belmore. Serious dispute of the
Friars in the Holy Sepulchre. Sepulchres called the tombs of
the kings. The governor refuses permission to excavate. The
Reverendissimo certifies our visit to all the sacred places at.
Jerusalem.

XXIV CONTENTS.LETTER V.
Preliminary arrangements for leaving Jerusalem. Assume
oriental names. Adapt our costume. Secrete our money in our
belts, and depart, well armed, from Jerusalem at dusk. Party,
eleven in number. Sleep at Bethlehem. Proceed for " Solo
mon's pools;" ascend the mountain of the Franks. The ruinous
state of its walls and towers ; military history thereof. View of
the Dead Sea. Bethlehem, &c. Proceed by Harriatoon to the
labyrinth; curiosity thereof. English names inscribed. Ruins
of Tekoa, built by King Rehoboam. Track to Hebron. Pass
Sipheer and its Roman sepulchral caves. Ruins of the house of
the.„House of Abraham." Pass numerous vineyards, with an
tique watch-towers.
Arrive at Hebron. Hospitable reception. Description of the
.town and its inhabitants. Refused admission to the mosque and
Tomb of Abraham. Description of the exterior. Manufactory
of glass lamps. Introduction to the Jewish priest by the gover-
nour. Hospitality of the Jews, who offer letters of introduction.
Visit the synagogue. Present the governour with a watch. His
dissatisfaction. Contract for guides. Governour inspects our
firmans, &c. Introduces our conductors. The law officers and
authorities. The guides refuse to conduct us. Receive the
money and watch. Depart by ourselves for Kerek. A messenger
overtakes us. We re-contract and receive one Jellaheen Arab.
Pass the ruins of Hagee, and two Roman tombs. Jellaheen
camp of thirty tents, with harems for the women. An Arab
tailor arrives; refusal, from fear, to conduct us to Wady Mousa.
Agree for gnuides to Kerek; their avarice on the road; they leave
us; they rejoin us. Delightful prospect of the Dead Sea. Pass
an old Turkish ruin on a rock. Drink from a pool of °reen,
stagnant water at El-Zowar, a man bathing therein. Enter the
treat plain at the end of the Dead Sea. Refresh ourselves with
our and water, and retire to rest. Disturbed by our guides
in dread of the dytchmaan. Observe numerous hills and strata
of salt. Mountainous margin of the Dead Sea, pass into a country
of curious shrubbery. Botanical remarks thereon.
Arrive at the nahr el Hussan, or horse river. The Ghorneys
hospitably entertain us; rufuse any compensation. Mistaken
for soldiers of Mahommed Aga. Left them in a terrible scramble
and dispute for money thrown amongst them. Great annoyance
from horse flies, identified by the natives as those of the plague.
The destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah. Attempt to cross the
Hussan on horseback. Our horses lay down in the stream • dis
mount and walk down. Proceed under the mountains. ' See
quantities of rich porphory, and various beautiful stone Collect
specimens thereof. Reach the south end of the Dead Sea and

CONTENTS. XXV
its back-water. Pass the night in a ravine covered with the
choicest odqriferous shrubs. Ascend a barren mountain ; hailed
by three men with a gun. Take a sketch of the fine view of
the Dead Sea. Accosted roughly by the three men who remained
with us. Surprised by five other armed men in ambuscade.
They question us, and we proceed. Pass through a fertile coun
try on the. river Souf, Saffa. Observe the ancient mill-courses.
The castle of Kerek appears. Ruins of the seraglio ; a mosque
of Meleh-e-daher. Approach to the fortress described. Dis
mount and enter. Curious construction of the. town. Descrip
tion of the castle and its Mahommedan architecture. A Christian
church therein. Account of its supposed founder. Its paintings
and sculpture. Sheikh Yousouf absent celebrating his recent
nuptials. Kindly received by Abdel Khader, his son. Costume
and habits of the women. Our horses and ourselves well fed, gra
tuitously. Meet with a great Arab traveller. His account of
himself ; he contrasts the privileges of this country with that of
the Turks. Dine at a Turk's house on boiled mutton, without
bread, a common practice, and its origin. Old Shiekh Yousouf
arrives without his youthful bride; his person and manners
described, ' Inhabitants remarkably illiterate, the Greek priest
being the only person who could read. Breach of promise of the
governor of Jerusalem. The Greek priest mediates and arranges
for our departure and conduct to Wady Mousa, &c. Yousouf
pledges himself to accompany us thither. Witness the payment
of a bridal dowry. The good understanding between the Chris
tians and Turks. Departure from Kerek. Sarcophagi. Joined
by an Arab from Dejebal, who describes the fortifications and
capital of Dareyah; and buried treasures. Silver preferred to
gold. Horses fed on camels' milk. Shiekh Yousouf mistaken for
a Wahabee. His horror threat. Refreshed with sour milk and
bread at the camp of Sheikh Ismayel, Yousouf s youngest son.
The ruined village of Mahannah ; the Christian church. Survey
various ruins. Return and sleep at Ismayel's camp. Resume our
journey, and pass numerous Arab camps, and ruined sites.
Arrive at that of Hamahta or Mote. Musshut, the tomb of
Abou Taleb. A Roman mile-stone. Mahommedans alight and
pray at the tomb of Sheikh Jaffa.
Camp of Shiekh Sahlem, commander of Djebal, and the country
to Shobek. Refusal of his attempted'extortion. His consequent
imprecation. Adjustment of differences ; accompanies us with
his son to a camp of thirty tents. Visit the ruins of Dettrass.
A temple and other Roman remains. Solemnities on a death
in one of the harems- Pass the remains of Acoujah, a Roman
fortress. Observe quantities of lava issued from the mountains.
Picturesque fall of the rivulet el Hussein. Ruins of a small
but rich b uilding, on the promontory; its fine sculpture of
arabesque foliage, capitals, columns, &c. Old mill-courses in
the valleys. Another camp of thirty-three tents. Fresh
attempts at extortion, &c. Volcanic stone, &c. Our spy-glass
purloined; compelled to redeem it for two rubees. Daoud, a

XXVI CONTENTS.
relation of the sheikh of Kerek, robbed of his sword. Pass the
village of Bsaida, and reach the ruins of Gharundel. Columns
and capitals of bad Doric architecture. A camp of Bedouin Arabs ;
take food with them. Discover several volcanic eminences, and
quantities of lava. Trace an ancient Roman high-way of curious
pavement. Ruins of square stone buildings. Three mile-stones,
with effaced inscriptions. Examine some antient Turkish build
ings, with Arabic inscriptions. Discover some Arabs, anl
divert our course. Gigantic description of Shobek. Verdant
gardens of fig trees, at the foot of the hill. Pas3 the tomb of
Sheikh Abou Soliman. Approach the town ; assailed by the natives.
Our safety guaranteed bythe presence of Shiekhs Yousouf and
Sahlem. Carried to a divan in the open air, and refreshed wit 1
dried figs ; the building constructed upon the ruins of crusad a
architecture. Arabic inscriptions upon the Mahommedan castle.
Extensive view of the before-mentioned desert and volcanos
Customary salutations and manners of the natives. Alarm of
Arabs, who had killed the goats of the natives. Threatened
retaliation. Roman inscription on the church entrance, ascribed
to the Frank kings of Jerusalem ; description of its architecture.
Quit Shobek and arrive at a large Arab camp." Titular dis
tinctions of the sheikhs. Our hospitable reception. Recognise a
merchant of Hebron, who had been robbed of his goods by the
Arabs. Their habits in the tents. Abou Raschid arrives and dines
with us. Orders restitution of the merchant's goods. Abou
Zatoun, the shiekh of Wady Mousa, violently opposes our pro
gress there. Joined by his people and depart with violent threats
against us. Abou Raschid following them, vows to enforce our
advance. Joined at Sammack by a well armed and mounted host
subject to him. Swears " that we shall drink of the water of Wady
Mousa." Wild and romantic view of Mount Hor.
Perceive traces of a Roman way similar to the former. Alight at
a camp of sixty-eight tents, in three circles on a mountain. Mag
nificent and picturesque views of groves, fertile fields, and camps.
Mount Hor, the reputed tomb of Aaron. Distant view of Mount
Sinai. Reach another camp subject to Abou Raschid. Odd
dress of the natives. Warlike appearance of the Wady Mousir
camp. A large deputation arrives; their conference with Abou
Raschid. Ineffectual remonstrances with our opponents ; and
return to the camp for the night. Violent storm; the cattle
seek shelter in our tents. War determined upon ; Abou Ras
chid sends for reinforcements to Shobek, and desires the presence
of Sheikhs Yousouf and Sahlem. Their arrival. Recommends
pacific measures. Renewal of conferences unsuccessful. Con
tinued arrival of reinforcements. Warlike appearance of our
camp. Noble disinterestedness of Abou Raschid. Hindi, a
powerful Arab chief, declares for our cause, and threatens to unite
his force. Thieves and spies detected in our camp. Old Yousouf s
eloquence in our favour, and conciliatory but decisive spirit.
Interesting objects of antiquity, discernible. Meditate a secret

CONTENTS. XXVU
visit thereto. Arrival of a numerous cavalcade. The chiefs
alight and pay homage to Raschid. Peace proclaimed, and our
auxiliary force discharged. Rejoicings of the men. Excuse
themselves by having supposed us Frenchmen. Intending to
poison the water. A person from the pashaw of Damascus exa
mines our papers. His total ignorance of the Turkish language.
Visited by Abou Raschid. Remains of towers ; traces of a great
metropolis. Depart with the deputation for Wady Mousa ; con
trived separation from them on the road. Arrive near the village ;
large encampment of the inhabitants. Outskirts of the vast Necro
polis of Petra. Its various sepulchral and other antiquities ; their
style characterised ; historical allusions and comparisons relating
thereto. Curious entablatures and inscriptions of the tombs.i Awful
and sublime appearance of the approach to Petra. Impressive
effect of the screaming of the birds of prey. The spot where the
pilgrims were murdered last year by the men of Wady Mousa;
the wrapping cloak and watch of one of them offered to us for
sale. A magnificent temple ; unparalleled beauty of its structure ;
numerous colossal statues. Traditional depository of a vast
treasure; Hasnah-el-Faraoun opinions as to its antiquity. Pyra
mids on the rocks. Pliny and Strabo's description of Petra,
and its customs. Construction of the houses of Petra. Splendid
ruins of the theatre, surrounded by sepulchres. Grand and capa
cious mausoleum. Tombs of Moses and Aaron on the supposed
Mount Hor. Curious hues of the mountains. Engage an Arab
shepherd as our guide. Leave Abou Raschid with our servants
and horses and proceed. Visit an old Sheikh in a tomb at the
top of the mountains ; antiquities thereof. Prospects of the
surrounding country. Observe the facade of another temple in
the northern approach to the city; its majestic appearance.
Reconducted by Abou Raschid from the ruins to the palace. Hor
ticultural advantages of the city. Scriptural references thereto;
depopulated state of the city. Quit the district of the tombs, and
arrive at a small camp ; stopped by two men rushing therefrom ;
friendly contention for the honour of affording us gratuitous sup
plies ; their hospitality, and subsequent avarice. Arab character
depicted. Revisit Petra, and return to the camp. Our apprehen
sion of robbers. Proceed towards Shobek. Great inconvenience
from cold. Arrive at Abou Rachid's camp, and joined by Sheikhs
Yousouf and Sahlem. Raschid's mace-bearer sent with us to
Shobek; quit it; pass a swarm of locusts; peculiar effect of the
rock whereon they alighted ; reported frequency of their appear
ance. Arrive at Ipseyra, or Bsaida ; people surly and fanatical.
Pass the village of Tafyle to the tents of Sheikh Sahlem. En
tertained on our way by shepherd's boys with their double pipes.
Descend into the Wady-el-Asha, and bathe in the hot spring,
designated by the, natives "the bath of Solomon;" scriptural
reference to this spot. Kill a large black scorpion. Regaled at
the camp of the father of old Yousouf s bride, and proceed to

XXVU1 CONTENTS.
Kerek. Pacific exchange of presents between old Yousouf and
the Annasee Arabs. Desperate illness of the sheikh's brother's
wife ; administer to her relief. Pass the source of Ain-el-Erangee,
the frank's fountain. Set out to explore the southern extremity
of the Dead Sea ; engage a guide ; his extortion. Meet a caravan
for HebrOn and Jerusalem. Pass the spot of a dreadful massacre.
A large herd of cattle, spoil from the Haouran.
Arrive at a prospect of the Dead Sea; remarkable appearance
of its evaporation. Hebron caravan implores concealment of
their route from the dread of robbers. Descend towards the
plain of Ghor ; its agricultural appearances. Various ruins and
antiquities, probably the site of the ancient Zoar. View of the
Dara, and description of the village of the infidel Ghomeys,
and its inhabitants. Peculiarities of the vegetation of the Dead
Sea ; fine salt upon the beach. People collecting the same. Ap
pearance and description of the promontory. Collect lumps of
nitre and sulphur; observe traces of foreign travellers. Pass
the strait betwixt the sea and back-water. Observe a small
caravan from Kerek. Quantities of dead locusts ; their extraor
dinary appearance. History and description of the back-water.
Arrive at Sheikh Yousouf s camp ; find men come to claim the
cattle robbed from them by Ismayel's people ; arbitrary adjudi
cation of Yousouf. Return to Kerek. Reach Abba, formerly
Rabbath-Moab, afterwards Areopolis. Ruins of Roman temples,
&c. Pass the night at a Christian camp. Interesting phenome
non viewed from the southern extremity. Visit the ruins of
Bait-Kerm. Remains of a large Roman palace. Lodge in the
camp near it. Repeated appeals of the men for their cattle.
Sheikh Harn. A conspicuous object from an eminence. Re
peated prospects of the Dead Sea, and its interesting shores ;
ascertain its extent. Arrive upon the brink of Wady Modjeb,
the ancient Arnon. The ancient road, and various relics of
antiquity coeval with Trajan. Roman mile-stone of Marcus
Aurelius. Pass the land of the Moabites into that of the
Amorites. Reaeh Diban, the Dibon of Scripture. Interesting
landmark. A consecrated pile of stone-work. Remains of a
fine Roman bridge. Mile-stones of Severus. Pass Djebal
Attarous, probably Nebo. Stop at a camp, near the ruins of
Mayn, the Baal Mayn of Scripture. Take various bearings of
the Dead Sea, andits vicinity. Return to the camp near Mayn.
Prospect of Heshbon, and other ruins. Engage a guide to
the sources of hot water. Pass immense numbers of rude
sepulchral monuments -of remote antiquity. Find ourselves in
an ancient highway. Cross the bed of the torrent Zerka Mayn.
Animals feeding-, called Meddn, or Beddn. Obtain views of the
Dead Sea, Frank Mount, and Bethlehem, also of the romantic
valley of Calirrhoe. Stream of hot water from a high rock ;
its sulphureous appearance. A rapid and copious river in the
hottom underneath of equal temperature. Traces of pristine

CONTENTS. XXIX
buildings on the rock. Find four Roman defaced medals. Our
Arab guide takes a vapour bath. Nature and properties of the
springs described. Proceed to the Benesucker's camp, near
Madeba". Alight at the tent of the chief Ebn-Fayes, our former
companion to Djerash, (and from whom we escaped to Szalt) ;
received by him and his brother outside thereof; their dress of
handsome silk from Damascus. The elder brother plays a one-
stringed fiddle, and sings " the death of his father." Supper
served in an immense wooden dish, borne by three persons ;
agree for a guide to Oom-i-Rasass.
An immense tank at Madeba. Reach Oom-i-Rasass. Extensive
christian ruins. Mr. Bankes renews his researches; is robbed by
an armed Bedouin of his abba. Meet with increased numbers of
camels. Reach Heshbon and find Sheikh Yousouf, the man of
Szalt, and the young prince of the Benesuckhers. Prepare to in
spect the ruins and the celebrated pools. Receive a message of
extortion from Ebn Fayes for leave to proceed. Expostulate and
produce our firman. He threatens to shoot us. Persist in our
refusal of his demand, and are allowed to proceed. Heshbon
wheat brought to parch during our detention. Descriptive ac
count thereof. Ruins uninteresting. Find many human sculls
and bones. Quit Heshbon for Szalt.
Arrive at Arrag-el-Emir. Grand ruins of a large edifice.
Sculpture in relievo. The supposed palace of Hircan, the
brother of Alexander, King of Jerusalem. Many artificial caves
in the cliff near; their resemblance to stables. Arrive at Szalt.
Pursue our journey, and pass the night at a camp of Benesuck
hers near Amman. Examine the ruins of Rabbath Ammon (now
Amman) an immense theatre and an odeum close to it. Traces of
other Roman edifices and Christian churches. Pass the night at
an Arab camp on the road to Djerash. Yousouf again charged
with stealing the people's cattle; dismisses them by coolly
pleading possession. Yousouf takes leave of us. Apology for
the impositions of the natives. Cross the Zerka, the Jabbok of
scripture, and return to Djerash. Complete our survey of the
edifices and proceed by Rajib to the Jordan. Roman remains in
a village-mosque near Katty. Wild boar shooting; these ani
mals very numerous. Return to our bivouack. An adder found
in Mr. Legh's blanket. Reach the Bysan ford on the Jordan.
Proceed to Tiberias. Visit Mount Tabor ; travellers names in
scribed on the ruins thereof. Beautiful plain of Esdredon. Arrive
at Acre. Instance of unfeeling barbarity there. Observations
on the character and manners of the Arabs. Their manufacture
of clothing, &c, chiefly by the women. Found many concealed
dead bodies. Practice of tything to support the sheikhs. Em
bark in an imperial brig for Constantinople. Reasons for avoid
ing our visit to Asia Minor at this season of the year. Mr. Legh
leaves Acre by land, for Palmyra, &c- Mr. Bankes by sea, for
Egypt. Our regret at parting with such excellent companions.

XXX CONTENTS.

LETTER VI.

Equip with Turkish travelling costume, a firman and two
biruldies, for post horses. Depart from Constantinople for Scutari
with a Tartar servant and another. Reasons for engaging the
Tartar. Purchase of horses. Proceed from Scutari and traverse
the villages of Gaobin and Bendick. Arrive at Ghiviza the Lybissa
of antiquity. Cross an arm of the Marmora to Ersek. Proceed
to Kisdervent, inhabited by Greeks. Pass the lake Ascanius, and
reach Isnick or Tchinisli, the site of ancient Nicsea; advance to
the town of Lefke. Arrive at Bilejik. Shuhut situated in a
beautiful valley. Arrive at Eski Shehr. Road through open
baked plains. Sidi Gazi. Many ancient fragments thereat.
Pass a road-side fountain with several fragments. Stop_ at
Khosru Khan, a miserable place, with many reliques in its neigh
bourhood. Breakfast at a fountain of Roman structure; its
sculpture, &c. Pass two ancient cemeteries and a Mahommedan
burial ground, also a Curd camp of black tents. Reach Bul-
werdun. Proceed over a swampy plain and a cause-way to Isaklu,
a considerable place. The road through a fertile plain, swamps
and lakes in the distance.
Arrive at Ak Shehr a large town. Description of the suite of
a rich Turk travelling. Proceed through a poor country and
reach Ilgum, thence through a down country to Khadun Khan.
Roman ruins therein. Pass two altars with Greek inscriptions;
reach Ladik. Burial ground described. Road through plains.
Arrive at Konieh, (formerly Iconium) the capital of a pashalic:
Description thereof and its inhabitants. Proceed through
plains of rich soil uncultivated; thence through open plains
partly cultivated, with villages in sight, to Karabignar (near some
volcanic mounds). Miserable houses, a handsome khan and a
mosque in a ruinous state. Leave Karabignar, and pass a mound
of conical form, surrounded by a natural fosse with salt water;
ground covered with ashes and Scoriae. Surugees return. Plan
to avoid exchange of horses, pursued ineffectually. A deserted
village. Observe some Turkomen's tents of singular construction.
Arrive at Erkle or Ellegria, beautifully situated. Surugees
imprisioned for causing the death of a horse; with difficulty
obtain one to proceed with us. Leave Erkle and enter a hilly
country. Pass some fine rivulets and a village. Large patches
of last years' snow on the highest parts of Mount Taurus.
' Stop at Olukooshlah, a place with a khan and a few huts.
Delay in procuring horses. Road now between some trees and
gardens to a river's side. The mountains' production of rich
grapes, sold to passengers. Scenery increases in beauty. Find
fragments of breccia, porphyry, &c. Arrive at a picturesque
bridge of one bold arch; ruins of another and a fountain near it.
The road becomes rugged and the scenery less picturesque. Sum-

CONTENTS. XXI
mits of the hills singularly pointed. Arrive at the post-house,
Takehur, situated in a wild rugged place. Insolent behaviour of
the Tartar, who returns to Takehur. The post-master, armed,
menaces, and orders us to stop. Obliged to give up the horses.
Proceed on foot. Tartar rejoins with horses and baggage. Road
cut through the rock, at a place called Kolinkboaz, one of the
Tauri Pylae, or Cilicae Pylae of the ancients. Arrive at a guard
house and fountain ; descend through a rugged road across numerous
ravines. Pass a Turkish castle on an eminence. Also remains of
a column of handsome porphyry. Pass an old Roman castle. Ap
proach a considerable river, and descend into the great plain of
Tersoos. Country covered with myrtle, &c. Cross the Cydnus,
and arrive at the khan in Tersoos. Thermometer at 9a in
the shade. Tersoos described. Its present commerce, &c. Quit
Tersoos for the coast of Karamania. Proceed by the road to
Kazalu. Reach an artificial mound; fine pottery and other re
mains on its summit Prospect over the plain; village of Kazalu.
The Scala, and vessels at anchor. Plain partially cultivated with
cotton. Pass the ruins of a town, having part of a building
standing. On the left another artificial mound with the remains of
a port. Stop at a small mill. Ground covered with dwarf wood.
Proceed by various gardens of figs, &c. encompassing a village ;
the inhabitants sleeping in the open air under the trees. This
cultivated tract very limited. Road through Dwarf Woodland.
Another artificial mound with ruins. Cross a considerable stream
and reach Pompeiopolis, surrounded by dark looking bushes.
Ruins described. Cross several streams and bridges. Another
artificial mound with ruins thereon. Country more open and
boggv. Pass several places where the natives tread out the corn,
and sleep on stages, elevated upon poles. Skirt the sea-beach.
Quit the plain country, and cross a rocky hill. The supposed
boundary between Cilicia Campestris and Aspera. Cross the
mouth of a large river in a sandy bay, a bridge and village near.
Large heaps of stones collected. Ruins of foundations, &c. A
Roman aqueduct on a double tier of arches across the Latmus.
Troughs cut in the rocks, and holes perforated to fasten the
cattle to. Description of several ruins. Proceed over a stony
road. Continuation of the grand aqueduct. Pass a burial place
called Shedelah, and descend into a sandy bay to some wells
of water, called by the natives Ayash. Some ruins described. An
ancient paved way lined with tombs, sarcophagi, altars, &c. Ar
rive at a sandy bay and an isthmus. The great aqueduct again
appears, though much in ruins, and near it the remains of a
palace, &c. The ruins of Eleusa, or Sebaste. Ascend the next
eminence. Baggage horse falls over a precipice. Its fall
broken by the baggage. A tomb described. Rout, in the ancient
paved way, to a castle and ruins. Descend into a valley leading
to the sea-shore, where stands an old castle. Remains of a pier pro
jecting into the sea, and some ruins at its extremity. Ruins of a

XXXU CONTENTS.
town on a hill eastward, and on the sides of the valley to. the west,
remains of excavated houses. A sarcophagus on the upperpart
of these hills. The village of Ichuran reported to be near. Cross
the foot of the western hfll to a sandy bay. Another castle on a
sandy island. Several springs of fresh water issue from the rocks
close to the sea, the first seen since crossing the Latmus. The
ruins of the ancient Corycus. Enquire for the Saffron cave of
Strabo. Pursue our route over a rough road, the coast forming
many bays and inlets. A small vessel at anchor in the first bay.
Promontories between these bays excessively rugged, and road
bad. Baggage horse falls frequently. Followed by seven natives
of Ichuran, a very wild looking people, armed with knives. Our
party with fire arms. The inhabitants of this country noted
pirates. Passed five caves in one of the valleys. Continuation of
very bad road into an extensive plain, terminating to the south in
a long, low promontory. Pass the ruins of Pershendy and some
others. Plain partially cultivated with cotton. Men employed
spinning wool, the occupation of women in other parts of the
Levant. Arrive at a miserable village, by the edge of a morass.
A large building formed of ancient ruins. Continuation of bad
road. A small mound with the remains of ancient buildings;
and some sarcophagi near. Arrive at the Ghiuk Sooyor river,
the ancient Calycadnus, and enter Selefkeh, one of the ancient
Selcucias. Selefkeh, and some other ruins near it, described.
Conductor taken ill. Continue our course westward. No horses
to be procured at Selefkeh. Arrive at some ruins and a small
bridge. Quit the plain country and pass along a rocky coast, by
an extensive Necropolis of sarcophagi cut in the rock. To the
ruins of another village, and further on to a bay, having a large
Turkish fortress on its western promontory. A polacca brig at
anchor. Converse with the crew. Pass into another bay sheltered
by an island. Two vessels taking in wood. Ruins at the head of
the bay and on the island. Bays sheltered by the curved projec
tion of the point Lissan el Kahpeh.
Pass over a very high bluff, and descend among romantic cliffs
and ravines into a valley. Stop at a small source of fresh water ;
the first seen since starting. Find an Open stage placed for the
accommodation of travellers, there being no inhabitants. The
valley inclosed by two high cliffs ; ascend with great difficulty,
and examine the ruins of a Turkish castle. A commanding view
of the sea, and the island of Cyprus. Observe some natives,
and being unarmed, retire, and join the rest of the party. Pass a
stormy night in the open air ; experience violent feverish heat
and thirst. Drink constantly at -the fountain. Morning, the
weather more serene. Valley opens on a deep bay of the sea-
coast. Pass over a mountainous and barren country; come
to some abandoned huts and gardens. Servant's illness in
creases to a high fever. Advance further, and with difficulty
find the track, there being no road. Arrive at Chelindreh, the

CONTENTS. XXXIU
ancient Celenderis. Two vessels lying in the port. Chelindreh
described. Bargain for horses to proceed. The disorder, which
had attacked all the party, increases. Thoughts of proceeding
abandoned. Resolve to hasten to Cyprus for medical aid. Our
guide, to obtain relief, blooded with the point of a nail. Party
much exhausted for want of nourishment. Termination of the
tour attributable to want of wholesome food, unwholsomeness
of the waters, lying on the margin of the swamps, and want
of sufficient covering at nights. Arrival at Cyprus. Dangerous
illness of one of the party; his convalescence. Embark for
Marseilles in a French brig; arrival, after a passage of seventy
days; perform a quarantine of twenty, and proceed to Mont-
pellier to recruit our health.

Some account of Cuchuk Ali, in a letter from John Barker,
Esq. to the Earl of Elgin.

ERRATA.
Contents, Pace xii. line 4, for moorelithe read monolithe.
13, 27, Sheck read Sheikh, passim.
117, 19» " the fleece" read u the fluse."*
127, 19, Appolinoplis read Appolinopoli*.
155, 10, PTOAEMAI05 reffrfnTOAEMAlOS.
222, 6, Latachia read Latachia or Latakia,pa*«'m.
223, 2, Selucia read Seleucia.
228, 13, an read and.
23, Turkmen read Turkomen.
356, 26, Goai nays read Ghorneys.
357, 27, Honssan read Hussan.
359, 1, el Derrah read el Dara, passim.
11, Saphy read Szafye or Ahsa, passim.
373, 18, Wady el Hnssein read Wady el A)xs&t passim .
378, 19, Showbac rearf Showbec
432, 17, ZettumrearfZetonn.
458, 14, Rubba read Rabba,

TRAVELS

IN

EGYPT AND NUBIA.

LETTER I.

TOUR IN EGYPT AND NUBIA.
Description of the party and object of pursuit. — Depar
ture from Phild. — Arrive at Second Cataract. — Elpha.
— Ebsambal. — Open the great temple. — Derry Kalap-
sche. — Return to Philee. — Pass through the Cataract. —
Visit Assuan. — Thebes. — Tentyra. — Arrive at Cairo.
Cairo, September 27, 1817.
We arrived here on the first instant, having made
a much longer trip than we had intended; the
reason of this I shall explain in its proper,place,
and in the mean time proceed to a continuation
of our narrative, from where my last letter, dated
in June, concluded. I think I mentioned before,
that we had joined, at Philae, Messrs. Beechey and
Belzoni; the latter is Mr. Salt's agent. Their
principal object in going up to the second cata
ract, was to endeavour to open the great temple
at Ebsambal, by desire of Mr. Salt, which Mr.

2 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
Belzoni had attempted the preceding year. The
whole face of the temple, as high as the heads of
the statues which are in front of it, was buried in
the sand which had been blown from the desert.
This sand, in the course of time, had accumulated
to such a degree, as not only to fill up the whole
of the valley through which it had passed, but also
to form a mountain, sloping from the front of the
temple, for two or three hundred yards towards
the banks of the Nile. From all external appear
ance it is probable this temple, which is hewn out
of the live rock, had been shut for many centuries,
perhaps for more than two thousand years; and
in that case, if it had not suffered too much in
the general pillage and destruction which all
the sacred edifices underwent at the conquest
of Egypt, by Cambyses and other subsequent
princes, it was hoped that something interesting
to the antiquarian might be discovered.
We considered it a fortunate circumstance for
us to have an opportunity of joining in so
interesting an undertaking, and as it is adviseable
that travellers should be both numerous and well
armed in Nubia, the junction of us four, together
with Mr. Beechey's Greek servant, an Arab cook,
and a janissary, composed a tolerably strong
party. We could only add one solitary musket
to a pretty good stock of arms of every deserip-

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 3
tion which Mr. Beechey had with him. We
hired a boat, which belonged to a village situated
on a point amidst a cluster of date-trees, which
bounds the view of the river from Phils to the
southward : the crew consisted of five men, in
cluding the reis or captain, and three boys :
three of the men and the reis were brothers, and
the fifth was their brother in law, having married
their sister ; this latter was dressed in a blue
shirt, from which circumstance we nic-named him
the " blue devil;" his real name was Hassan; he
will be by and by a conspicuous character in this
narrative. The Boys were sons of some one
or other of the crew, and the boat they said
belonged to the father of them all, an old man
who wore a green turban, as a descendant of the
prophet. In the afternoon of the sixteenth, we started
with a fine, fair wind, having first settled a quarrel
between two of our crew, in which one of the
party was cut through the calf of the leg, to the
bone : our agreement with the reis was for one
hundred and sixty piastres per month, four pounds
sterling; and at the end- of the voyage, if they be
haved well, a backsheeish or present was pro
mised, a stipulation which always forms part of
similar bargains in this country. It was expressly
understood that the crew should find themselves.

4 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I,
i
As we advanced upwards, the sand hills filling up
the cavities between the black granite rocks pre
sented a most remarkable contrast, the wind
having drifted it very much; the surface in many
places was quite fine and smooth, reminding one,
with the exception of the difference of colour, of
some of the scenery in Switzerland, where the
snow before it cracks, and after it has been drifted
fine,.' presents just such an appearance. The
mountains here close much on the river, and we
looked in vain for that rich plain which, in Egypt,
is -every where to be seen on the banks of the-
Nile. On the heights, as we proceeded, we saw
several Saracenic buildings placed in most pictu
resque situations ; they tend very much to set off
this wild species of scenery ; you also observe .
throughout Nubia, numerous piles of stones
placed on the most elevated and conspicuous
parts of the mountains, to indicate the vicinity of.
the Nile to the caravans from the interior of
Africa* as Darfur, Dongola, and other places.
Half a day's sail from Philae, conducted us to
the finishing of the granite rocks, which now, gave
place to those of1 calcareous stone, though on the
river side, in most instances, their exterior still
retains a black colour and a polish. The vein of
red granite which begins below Assuan, and ex
tends beyond Philae, is supposed to continue in

fcETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. O
an easterly direction till it joins the shores of the
Red Sea, keeping, nearly throughout, the same
breadth ; the observations which we made on our
trips into the desert from Assuan; tended to con
firm this opinion.
On the afternoon of the seventeenth we came
to a place where the mountains close upon the
river in a very abrupt manner, leaving no' level
land on the banks; the hills at the same time pre
sented some very grand though rude scenery.
This, by some travellers, is termed the boundary
between1 Egypt and Nubia, though I should be
inclined to' agree with the French, that the first
Cataract is a more natural limit to the two coun
tries ; as, immediately above Assuan, you perceive
not only a country quite different from that
below, but even natives of a character and colour
in no way resembling the Egyptians, differently
clothed, and speaking another language.
This evening we arrived at Kalapsche, and as
we had to wait some tirjhe while our janissary
was buying provisions, we went up to inspect the
temple, though we had agreed- to visit the anti
quities in general as we returned from the second'
cataract. The ruins of this edifice are large and
magnificent, but it has never been finished : ' it
consists of a large peristyle hall, (most Of the
columns of which have fallen, and many are un
it*

6 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
finished,) two chambers, and a sanctuary. The
exterior walls are smooth, the sculpture not
having even been commenced, and in the interior
it is not finished, there being in no instance either
stucco or painting. There has been first a quay
on the river's side, and then a flight of steps as an
approach to the temple. We reserved the mea
surements, &c. till our return : the outer hall had
several Greek inscriptions in it, some of them in
tolerable perfection.
In the evening, before we stopped, we passed
two crocodiles, they were on a shoal in the middle
of the Nile, and retired before we got near them :
they were the first we had seen since we left
Philae ; indeed they are never met with near that
island. On the nineteenth a foul wind obliged us
to stop, when an old man came to beg medicine,
thinking we were hackim, or physicians, a strange
notion which all barbarous nations have respecting
Europeans : we gave him some advice, though we
declined any pretensions to the title he had given
us. Bruce, in making himself acquainted with the
rudiments of physic, shewed how well he judged
of the proper mode of travelling in these coun
tries ; and his narrative proves how much he
benefitted by this knowledge. Our denial of all
knowledge, of physic met with little belief among
the natives, and to induce us to give them assist-

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 7
ance, they offered two fowls for any aid we would
render to their patients. On the twentieth we
saw a camel swimming across the river ; one man
swam before with a halter in his mouth, leading
the animal, another followed behind.
June 21. We this day observed, immediately
opposite Duckie, two lads crossing the river,
which is here tolerably wide, and pushing and
towing a laden reed raft.
On the twenty-second observed the purple
acassia; it bears some resemblance to a shrub,
and is evidently a dwarf species of the mimosa,,
nevei* attaining a height beyond afoot or fifteen
inches; excepting in colour, the flower is like the
yellow acassia. On the twenty-third our crew
killed a snake that was basking on the river side ;
it was gray, with two black marks below its> head.
It was curious to see the precautions they used
before they would surprise this reptile, which
they represented as poisonous; though I did not
believe it was so. We had this morning a re
gular wild-goose chase after an old one and four
young ones; the crew jumped overboard and
caught them all, though with some difficulty. I
mention this merely to give you some idea how
expert these people are in the water; they may
almost be said to be amphibious.
June 24. This day we were opposite Koroskoff

8 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
in the morning; we purchased a sheep for nine
piastres, but were • obliged to send the: money
before they would even shew the animal; we.
remonstrated much against this curious method
of making a bargain, but nothing would induce
them to change their plan. We this day saw
the calibash growing wild on creepers up the
acassia-trees on the river side; our crew got
three very good ones; the boys also found a sort
of wild. currant growing close to the water side;
we tasted some, ' and thought them not • unlike
the r blue-berry, though not shaped like them,
being round ; in size and colour they are alike.
^Our custom was always to bathe morning and
evening regularly, frequently oftener; this evening,
while at this recreation, Mr. Belzoni was bitten in
the foot, which caused him to cry out somewhat
loudly for assistance ; next morning he was bitten
again, in the same place; this last time fetched
blood, taking a piece out of the toe. The animal
must have been small; he plainly felt something
twisting round his leg; we all agree in thinking
it must have been, a water lizard. I should have
told you, the other day a man hailed us and
asked "if. we would buy a spy-glass ;" he said
he was a native of Senaar: we thought it must
be the property of some European who had been
robbed, and therefore said we would see it first;

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 9
in consequence he came into the boat, to be
carried to the villager where it was, (about four
hours sail above) .however, on arriving there he
walked; off, and we never heard again either of
him or his glass; the fact is, he wanted a passage,
and, you, I am sure, will give him credit for so
cunning a method of getting one. It is by these
little. traits that one can judge. of the character
of people of this description.
June 25. We this day arrived, near Koroskoff, at
the point where the river reaches the southernmost
point; .before the beginning of the second. cataract;
for the ascent of the river here turns due north,
and continues, in that direction between ten and
fifteen miles; after which.it becomes S.W.:and
then west to the second cataract. The Nile
here assumes a picturesque appearance, having
several islands and rocks in the centre of it. In
the evening,, our -janissary shot a wild-goose; its
plumage was. beautiful, and its, taste exceedingly
good, though we had not the means of cooking it
in a very savoury manner.
. June 26. Observed the Nile to have fallen
about one and a half foot; it is now twenty-two
days '.since it began to rise; it is already above
the cataract of Syene (Assuan). •,
June 27. We this day saw two crocodiles;
our men requested. us to fire .some muskets to

10 TRAVELS IN ' [LETTER 1.
frighten them away, but were not afraid of
towing the bark in the water close to the bank
where we observed them; I think, from what we
have noticed of these animals, that if ever they
do attack people, it is but very seldom. This
morning a man on horseback came down to the
river side, and said he was sent by Halleel Cashief
with salam alicams (compliments) : he, however,
seemed more intent to get something for himself;
and in a moment enumerated several articles
which he requested us to give him; such as
coffee, snuff, gunpowder, salt, &c; we told him
we had none to spare, as we reserve those articles
for Hassan Cashief, the chief person in this
country, and whose favour it is necessary to gain
by presents, in order to get permission to open
the temple at Ebsambal, one of the principal
objects of the expedition; that chief has pledged
his word to Mr. Belzoni, that none but the
English should be allowed to work there, on
condition that he, Hassan, was to have half the
gold that was found in it: for these people have
no idea that our researches for antiquities in this
country, have any other view than to get trea
sure; and they laugh when we tell them we are
looking for stone statues, and slabs of that mate
rial, with inscriptions on them. They cannot
conceive what motive can induce us to come such

LETTER Ii] , EGYPT AND NUBIA. 1 1
a distance, and. expend three or four-thousand
piastres to clear away an accumulated mass of
sand, for no other purpose than to find some
granite figures.
We now observed the water to be exceedingly
muddy, and of a reddish yellow, colour. We
stopped a short time at Offidena with a view of
purchasing a statue; but after much prevarica
tion, we could not even get a look at it. The
natives of this place are both handsome and
well made, a circumstance very rare in Nubiai;
their complexion however was unusually dark.
In the evening arrived at Derry, sent word to
Daoud and Halleel CashieX the two sons of
Hassan, (who most unfortunately for us was at
Dongola, and by whose absence we lost the
friendship and assistance of the only honest man
in the country,) that we were going up to open
the temple at Ebsambal, and would thank
them to send orders for us to be permitted to
work; adding, at the same time, that we would
wait on them and pay our respects' on our return.
While waiting there we had a specimen of
Nubian dancing; about twelve lads assisted; the
music consisted only in clapping the hands, in the
doing of which, they kept very good time. I
cannot say much for the elegance or gracefulness of
the dance, as it was nothing more than lifting up

1 <2 TRAVELS IN [LETTER T,
the right foot and stamping it down again, then
rising up on the left foot by the spring of the instep,
and afterwards letting' the feet rest on .the flat
sole. This was done for a backsheeish which we
gave them. We also gave the. reis and crew a
backsheeish of ten piastres, but they said it was
not enough, so we gave .them fifteen. At night,
when we stopped, the reis came to us to say ±hat
we were two parties, and therefore should by
rights ; pay double the money we had agreed .on
for the boat. Complaint was also made that .we
had not given sufficient to the. crew to . eat ; I
mentioned before the agreement about their feed
ing themselves : it was also alleged that Jacques
(an agent of Mr. Drovetti's, a Frenchman living
in this country, ; and who hired the boat not long
before us,) always gave them one third of. his
coffee, meatr bread, and every thing that he
had; in short, they imagined that up here we
were at their mercy. Now* as we had regularly
fed them, and given them coffee without stint every
day, we thought it time to come to an. under
standing, and therefore told them that the boat
was at our disposal, , and , that it was no matter
of theirs if we had. two or five different parties;
and with regard to food, that as they were, not
contented with what we had given. them spon
taneously, they should have nothing. ,We have

LETTER 'I.} EGYPT AND NUBIA. 13
no doubt-but our janissary and the Greek servant
put them up to this? request, as the soldier took
a poor cowardly part, and urged that we were
in a savage country, and had better temporize
till we - were on ¦ our return, thus showing of
how little use these fellows are to protect tra
vellers. June 28. Passed I brim, situated on a rude but
picturesque hill of> a conical shape,, and Of barren
calcareous stone. There is not now the least
vestige of . an inhabitant to be seen, alld it pre-:
sents a sad picture of ruin and desolation. Mr.
Leg-h, in his new - publication, (a few extracts
from which we have seen in the Quarterly Review
for February last) says "this town was destroyed
by "the mamelukes ;" it was the extent or limit of
his voyage in Nubia: he travelled in 1813. Mr.
Bankes, it , appears, was the first Englishman
who ever. succeeded in gaining the second cata
ract : . he travelled in 1 8 1 5. I fancy he took much
about the same tour, of Syria that we mean to
take,, though we have -not' as yet seen his journey \
traced out.. In 1816, Mr. Drovetti, the ci-
devant; French consul in Egypt, succeeded in
reaching the -second cataract, together with his.
two agents, Rifaud and Cailliaud; these travellers,
together with Sheck Ibrahim (a reah friend of
ours) and Mr. Belzoni, are all that have reached .

14 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
thus far: Mr. Belzoni had his wife with him in
man's clothes. Poor Norden, who travelled eighty
years ago, could only reach Derry; his Nubian
trip is rather interesting, though not very instruc
tive. Denon went no higher than Philae; and
Pocock, who passed Norden on the Nile, only
reached that isle. On the tops of the hills near
Ibrim, we remarked many conical hillocks, as
marks to lead the Dongola caravans (x). This
evening we saw a crocodile sleeping on the
sand a considerable way up; we were within
twenty yards of him, but as none of our muskets
were loaded 'with ball we did not fire; we how
ever made a noise to awaken him, when he
rushed into the water with his mouth open,
looking very savage; he was about fifteen feet
long*. June 29- Arrived at Ebsambal, and unfor
tunately found Hassan Cashief absent; sent again
to Derry, to Daoud and Halleel, for leave to begin
and open the temple when we returned from the
second cataract: the banks of the river between
Ibrim and Ebsambal are beautifully strewed
with the yellow and purple acassia, forming
thick hedges, which have a very pleasing effect;
a species of the tamarisk is also common here.
The acassia is famous for producing the gum
arabic, which is brought in great quantities from

LETTER l.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 1 5
the interior of Africa in the vicinity of Darfur;
the seeds of the acassia also serve for a lucrative
branch of trade, being sent in the first instance
to Cairo, and then shipped for Europe, where
they serve as a good article for tanning. The
water is now become exceedingly thick, fit is not
however unpleasant to the taste.
June 30. While we were at Ebsambal, the
Dongola caravan passed; it was preceded by
about? fifty camels, carrying the provisions, &c.
The conductors were armed with a sword, dagger,
and spear .each; they wore sandals to preserve
the. soles of their feet from the burning sand,
which we now feel most sensibly, being obliged
to stop every now and then to pour it out of our
shoes. These sandals are much like those worn
by the ancient Egyptians, and which are often
found on the feet of the mummies at this day.
The range of the Mockatem mountains finish
nearly opposite Ebsambal in a remarkable
manner; terminating in a considerable number of
pyramidal hills rising up from the sand* and
having the appearance of a gigantic camp; some
ofji the t-! hills are oblong, and in- the form of
marquees; mothers are so perfectly pyramidal*
that one finds it difficult to divest one's-self of the
idea that they are the work of men's hands.
Brace attributes the origin of the pyramidal

1 6 TRAVELS IN - {[LETTER I.
mode of building to an imitation, of the ? slope or
inclination of the sides of. mountains. (Vol. ii.p. 33.)
July 1. Stopped opposite the village of Farras;
we here examined the site of a large Nubian city;
and amongst the modern stone buildings of the
Arabs found several, remnants of temples, with
hieroglyphics; in one was. a beautiful cornice and
a frieze, with the winged globe highly finished.
The natives shewed us some Greek and Roman
ornaments,, such as the spread, eagle, ornamental
cross* &c.;.near the village are some fragments of
a temple, consisting of several broken pieces of;
red granite pillars, also some small ones of. beau
tiful white marble. From the appearance . of
these ruins, the fineness of the situation, and the
rich plain of cultivated land near it, I think this:
must once have, been a populous. and, flourishing i
city, in the time of the Greeks and Romans, as:
well, as the Egyptians. Close to the, rubbish
there is a natural rock by itself, and a door lead- 1
ing to a very small recess or chamber, in .which .
are two Egyptian figures, in intaglio; on the wall;
one is a man, the other a woman with the lotus-
flower in her hand ; a, double row of. hieroglyphics
near the inner, figure, and there is a niche at the
further end of> the chamber about four feet?
square. We bathed this morning opposite a village, and

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 17
on a sand-bank in front of us, at not more than a
musket-shot distant, we observed two crocodiles
(timsah in Arabic) ; as soon as we went into the
water they both walked into the river, to , all ap
pearance from fear, for they are certainly both
shy and timid, and, I suspect, will only attack a
single person when they can surprise him in the
water, and off his guard ; we saw no more of
these two ; at noon we saw another crocodile
swimming with his nose just out of the r water.
We also observed, to day, a pretty large water-
lizard, and a small black water-snake. To day
the sand-hills have assumed a fine green appear
ance, being covered here and there with tamarisk ;
this verdure, contrasted with the dark yellow
sand, forms a pleasing diversity of appearance.
In the evening, while towing the boat, our sailors
found a torpedo on the very brink of the river,
apparently asleep ; it was curious to observe
their caution and timidity in approaching it; they,
however, succeeded in sticking one of their daggers
in his head, and by that means hauled it on shore ;
our Egyptian crew had done the same near Beni
Hassan. We got the fish on board, and, though
nearly dead, it sensibly affected my arm in laying
hold of it; I felt a double shock up the arm
near the elbow. It was about two feet long; had
very small eyes ; the belly and top of the back

18 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
white ; one dorsal fin, and the sides were coloured
dark brown with black spots ; it had no scales.
Our' sailors in Egypt ate the one they caught,
but the present crew would not touch this, even
when dead, and consequently harmless, much
more eat it. They all said we avoided the shock
by uttering a charm, or using some magic influ
ence. This day one of the boys of our crew
brought on board a camelion ; he caught it in an
acassia (called in Nubia the soont) tree, which they
affect more than the date, or any other tree in
this country. On coming on board, it hissed and
shewed symptoms of anger, evincing at the same
time a great desire to make its escape., It was
theri of a dirty green colour, with dark spots, and
whenever it was approached it turned to a dusky
brown, inflating itself at the same time. I con
clude that one hue is the effect of fear, and the
other of indifference. We had subsequently, eight
of these animals on board ; some of them became
so tame, that when the flies annoyed us much, we
had only to take' one of the camelions in our hand,
and place it near the flies, and it would catch them
with its long tongue in great numbers. One of
our crew brought us some fine pieces of gum
arabic which he picked off the acassia; some of the
specimens were remarkably clear and large.
July 1. In the evening arrived at Farras,

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 1.9
when two natives with the men servants of
Hassan Cashief came and made a bargain with us
to procure asses and camels to go above the
second cataract. One of these remained in the
boat, and the other promised to meet us at Elpha
on the morrow with the animals. Elpha is op
posite the second cataract, and is the last habitable
place to which the Nubian boats ascend.
July 2. Arrivedv at the second cataract, and
perceiving we should have a long distance to walk
to the elevated point from whence the finest
view of the cataract is obtained, we requested
the reis to take us higher up the river, in order
to shorten the walk, but all the boatmen persisted
that it was impracticable for the boat to go
higher on account of the rocks ; they offered,
however, to take us if we would first go over to
Elpha, on -the opposite side of the river, and land
all our effects, and then return again. We re
quired the reason of this odd proposition, when
they said, that they were apprehensive of thieves
on that side of the river. We did not however
like the scheme, and therefore refused it, urging
them to advance higher up, as we plainly perceived
we might go a good league farther without the
least risk ; but nothing would induce them to
consent. In the mean time another boat arrived,
and we perceived that our reis and his sailors

20 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
were in league with those of 'the other boat, to
force us to take their bark ; but we determined to
walk rather than submit to this imposition, as
they wanted a high price in the newly arrived
boat, and accordingly we set out. The sand was
deep and the sun very hot, so that we soon found
that walking in the desert is no joke ; our trip
occupied us about two hours, from one to three,
the hottest part of the day. On the road we
found innumerable tracts of the gazelle and other
animals.; we saw seven of the former in one lot,
and three in another. They were not so timid as
one would expect, and stopped to gaze on us
with their ears cocked up like deer in a park;
their colour is brown, not much unlike the sand,
,and when they are in a valley it is difficult to
perceive them. We were not more than two
musket shots distant from the first three we saw ;
when running, they appeared wonderfully light
and nimble, and while on the rocky parts bounded
with great agility.
The spot from whence we surveyed the cata
ract was a projecting cliff, about two hundred
feet high, with a perpendicular precipice down to
the river side ; from this place, which is on the
western bank, you look down on the cataract to
great advantage. It presents a fine coup d'ceil ;
the river here runs E.N.E. and W.S.W. In

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 21
America this would be called " a rapid," there
being no fall visible, only an immense cluster of
innumerable black rocks, with the Nile running in
all directions with great rapidity, and much noise
between them ; they fill up the whole breadth of
the river, which may be about two miles wide,
and they extend as far as the eye can reach,
altogether making a space of about ten miles of
rapids ; three below the rock on which we stood,
and seven above. The scenery is here remark
ably wild, there being no human habitation
visible, excepting a fisherman's hut on one of the
islands, and the village of Elpha on the opposite
side of the river, in the distance. Some of the
rocks have beds of yellow sand on them, and most
of the islands have small trees and shrubs
growing in the crevices ; the verdure of these,
contrasted with the sand and black rocks, pro
duces a fine effect. In front, and on both sides,
the view is bounded by the desert ; to the south
ward are the tops of two high mountains rearing
their heads above the hills, and apparently seventy
or eighty miles distant. The western bank of
the river is richly covered with trees and shrubs,
and it is curious to observe, immediately beyond
the green margin, the barren desert, without the
least* vestige of verdure. Having bathed and
dined on bread and cheese, we set out on our

22 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
return to the bark, our guides urging us to be
quick, lest we should be benighted ; they said the
serpents and other venemous reptiles always
came down by night to drink, and they were
apprehensive that we should tread on them.
They also said we should meet the robbers at
night. These people have a remarkable aversion
to being caught in the dark. I remember, when
at Dendera, our servant, an Arab, hurried off
and left us behind, when he thought we should be
late in returning to our boat ; and whenever our
lights have gone out in a tomb or temple, the
Arabs have always clapped their hands, and made
a noise to keep their spirits up till the light re
turned. In the evening, after dark, we reached
the boat.
July 3. In the morning at daylight we crossed
over to Elpha, the way to which place leads
through several intricate passages, amongst rocks
and shoals, where the current runs with great
rapidity. In one part we were obliged to pass
close under a high bluff point with some ruined
houses on it. It was not necessary to pass
through this intricate passage ; our boatmen took
it when we were all asleep in our beds, and we
only perceived our situation on awaking at
Elpha. We here found that neither asse's nor
camels had arrived to take us up to the temple

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 23
above the second cataract which we had heard off;
the reason assigned for this was, that the price
agreed on the day before, at three piastres for each
animal, was not enough, though the person who
made the agreement was there. We now endea
voured to procure beasts of the inhabitants, but
they haggled so much about the price, that we
could make nothing of them. While we were
arranging this matter, our crew, reis and all, took
their clothes, arms, and effects out of the boat,
and walked off to a sackey *, about twenty yards
distance, on the banks of river ; here they, squatted
down amongst a considerable number of natives.
We had not taken notice of this proceeding, as
their clothes, &c. were all kept abaft behind the
end of our cabin, and, therefore, when we could
not agree for the asses, &c. we said we did not
want them, and would go back to Ebsambal.
With this intention we called the reis, and desired
him to get the bark ready to return, but received
an immediate answer, " that neither he nor his
crew would come." We sent word to know the
reason of their refusal, when they replied, that we
must give them more money for the boat before
they would come on board ; they also sent word
* Sackey is the Persian wheel with which they raise water from
the river; it is described by Burkhardt, Norden, and other
travellers.

24 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
that we had never fed them, nor had we given
them backsheeish, and when we reminded them
of Derry, they said that was nothing.
We now threatened to take the boat off our
selves, and for that purpose rigged the oars
across, but the wind being strong against us, we
did not get under way. When the oars were
ready we sent word to the crew to come, but they
replied that they would not ; that we might buy
the boat if we chose, but that they would not
navigate her ; at the same time they said that
they were people who did not value their fives
a pigeon, and for half a one that they would take
ours. While all this was passing, we observed
the natives assembling in every direction, armed
with spears, swords, and daggers ; every minute
they were arriving from all quarters on asses, and
always going to the rendezvous under the sackey,
where our vile crew had it in their power to tell
any falsehoods against us without our being able
to confute them, as neither our Arab cook, the
Greek servant, or janissary understood the Bar-
barin language. Several of the Barbarins now
came to see what arms we had, and took account
of every thing in the shape of a weapon ; for
seeing affairs in this posture we had prepared for
the worst, and laid out all our arms in readiness,
of which fortunately we had a good stock. A

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 25
message now came from the crew that they
wanted money; we sent them word that they
must first come and do their duty ; that as soon
as the boat was off from this place, they would
have a backsheeish, but not one para till they had
done their duty. They now sent word that we
had absolutely starved them, which was no doubt
what they told the natives ; they also informed us
by a message, that at this very place they had
beaten Jacques (Rifaud) during his last voyage,
(though you may remember what they said of
his generosity at Derry,) and that it was done
in the presence of the sheick of the place, and
all the natives ; and that they had made him pay
fifty piastres for the stick they had broken over
his head. At this moment several of the natives
came down demanding backsheeish, backsheeish,
in a threatening manner; we asked the reason
why we should give them money? they replied, for
seeing the cataract, and coming into their coun
try. A loaded musket was now pointed at them,
and they were asked if they wanted money by
force or good means ; on which they retired,
saying la, la, la, no, no, no, evidently not liking
the sight of fire arms, which they have a parti
cular aversion to. We now told them, that if
we had seen the cataract without paying, so they
had seen us without giving us any thing as a

26 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
recompence, though we were as novel a sight to
them as their cataract was to us, and therefore
we were quits.
Some of the most impudent now came down,
and on being refused money said we should wait
where we were till the high Nile; that we should
neither go upward or downward, laughing and
hooting at the same time; our villainous crew all
this while sitting under the sackey, and enjoying
the storm they had raised against us. To all
their threats we constantly replied that we were
well armed, were determined not to be robbed,
and that should they come to extremities, we would
certainly make a good use of our fire-arms, which
we took care they should all see were pretty
numerous and loaded. The asses were now
brought, and the people endeavoured to persuade
us to go off to the temple, evidently in the hope
of plundering the boat when we were gone; we
easily saw through this trick, and positively
refused to go. We also told the natives that
though we were few in number, we had the
firman of the pashaw, and that any violence
offered to us, would be sure to be well punished;
those who had brought the asses now asked some
remuneration for their trouble, as we had refused
to hire them ; this we thought reasonable, and to
draw off their attention, for there were about

LETTER 1.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 27
forty of them* we gave eight piastres to be
divided amongst the claimants. The division of
this money turned affairs very much in our favour,
for they began to quarrel amongst one another
immediately. The crew now thinking that we had given the
natives backsheeish, and that they should get
nothing more without danger to themselves, sent
a messenger while the natives were disputing
about the division of the eight piastres to say
they would come and prepare the boat provided
they had the backsheeish : we repeated our terms,
that they should have a present when they did
their duty. Seeing now they could not stir up
the natives to any acts of violence at the risk of
their personal safety, they returned to the boat,
all armed, having their daggers fastened to the
left arm above the elbow joint, the manner in
which all the Nubians wear that weapon. As
soon as the boat was ready they asked for the
money, when we gave them fifteen piastres:
before we were off, however, one of the Faras
people came to be rewarded for endeavouring to
hire the asses at that place, or rather for disap^
pointing us; we gave him five piastres, which he
indignantly refused, but seeing he could get no
one to assist him in forcing us to give more, (for
all these periple are impudent and bullying for

28 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
their own interest, but never for another's,) came
back and said he would take the five we had
already offered him; this we now refused, when
he went off in a violent rage, uttering threats
that we should hear more of him below. After
this, we got off from this infamous place, and
soon found what a trap we had been caught
in; for it was with the utmost difficulty, that even
the crew could get the boat through the nume
rous narrow passages, all of them being obliged
to get out into the river, and guide her through
amongst the rocks; and we were also forced to
pass directly under the bluff point I mentioned
before, where the natives, had we taken the boat
off ourselves, would have annoyed us greatly,
while they would have been sheltered behind the
ruined village. Indeed our crew wished us above
all things to take the boat off, that they might
represent us to the inhabitants as robbers, stealing
their bark: however we saw through all this.
July 4. Arrived at Ebsambal and found that
no message whatever had been received from the
cashiefs at Derry : this was a sad disappointment
to us. Our crew now dreading the presence of
the chiefs, came to beg a reconciliation, saying
that they had forgotten and forgiven every thing,
and hoped that we had: they said they would
behave well in future — " that they were poor,

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 29
and always made a practice to get all' they could
from passengers and strangers:" — they remarked,
" that dogs, when repulsed, always made a prac
tice of returning to get something as long as
there was any thing to be had:" — this appears to
be a favourite proverb amongst them.
July 6. Visited the small temple opposite Eb
sambal on the south side of the river. This tem
ple is excavated in the solid mountain; the entrance
is situated on the side of a rocky precipice, which.
below it slopes into the river; there are some
ruins of steps cut in the rock as an approach to
it. The principal chamber is ten paces long,
by nine wide : it is supported by four pillars, two
on each side of the passage. In the centre, at
the further end of the apartment, there is on
each side a door-way communicating with side
chambers, nine paces by four each: the sanc
tuary at the end of the principal chamber is
six paces by four; this is the most common mode
of construction in the Egyptian temples. At
present the interior of this temple appears daubed
all over with dirty plaster and Greek paintings,
mostly representing men on horseback. Behind
these, however, we easily discovered the Egyptian
figures, hieroglyphics, &c. &c. in bas-relief on
stucco; as most of the figures represent men with
hawk's heads, we think this temple was dedicated

30 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I-
to Osiris ; and afterwards, perhaps, converted into
a church of St. George. The sanctuary has been
once ornamented, but the side apartments are
plain: there is a small subterraneous chamber
below the sanctuary, apparently intended for a
sepulchre. July 7. A message on a dromedary arrived
from Daoud Cashief at Derry to see " if we were
.the same English for whom Hassan Cashief had
promised to open the temple;" at the same time
he sent word that if we were the same persons,
he would immediately come himself, but if not
he knew what to do. The latter part of the
message alluded to the French, who had used
every effort to get Hassan Cashief to allow them
to open the temple after Mr. Belzoni's first
attempt in 1816; Mr. Belzoni, however, had
fortunately, in Mr. Salt's name, sent Hassan and
his two sons a turban each, and some other pre
sents, after his first effort : this he did to bind them
to their promise, and they certainly deserve credit
for keeping it. It ought to be mentioned that
Mr. Drovetti, in the early part of 1816, on his
way to the second cataract, before Mr. Belzoni's
arrival in Nubia, had contracted with Hassan
Cashief to open the temple, for three-hundred
piastres, and left the money; Hassan promising
that Mr. D. should find it ready opened on his

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 31
return from the falls: however, when he came
back his money was returned, the chief candidly
telling him he could not undertake the task for
so small a sum. As Mr. D. would not go to
more expense, the field now became open to any
one else who chose to attempt the enterprise.
July 6. In the morning we started early with
two of the natives in search of a temple which
they said was in the neighbouring mountains, and
stated to be about a pipe distant; for it is com
mon among them to estimate a short journey by
the number of pipes they can smoke during its
performance: on our way we met two white
gazelles; they were very timid, the belly and
tail were perfectly white. After walking about
an hour, we came to the , mountains, where,
having waited about two hours more, our con
ductors came and said, they could not find the
temple, though the evening before they had
described the size and every particular of it. In
the evening we had a violent quarrel with the
crew in consequence of their drawing their
daggers on our servants; we told them that the
first who should draw his dagger would be sure
to be severely punished: this threat, however,
had so little effect, that one of them who had
murdered his own brother at Philae, (for which
reason he did not dare to go near the island (2),

32 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I. .
but was taken into our boat at a village above
it,) said he would be the first, and swore by Alia
and the Prophet that he would have one of our
lives ; adding, that his method was not to attack
people awake, but to stab them sleeping. We
however laughed at their threats, and told them
they were more apt at talking of these matters
than in executing them.
July 10. This day the two cashiefs arrived,
Daoud and Halleel; they did not come to us, nor
send any message to apprize us of their arrival,
but pitched their tents, consisting of a few sticks
of date, the roof covered with grass, on the sand
bank at the river side: here they waited till we
should make our appearance. We accordingly
set out to visit these potentates ; the first tent we
entered happened to be Halleel's. He was a tall
handsome man, about thirty-?six years of age, six
feet high, very corpulent, and had a fine expres
sive countenance, with dark eyes: his dress was a
large loose white linen shirt, with long sleeves
hanging down nearly two feet, an old turban and
slippers. He received us with tolerable affability,
and immediately conducted us to his elder brother
Daoud's tent, who also gave us a very good
reception. Daoud Cashief appeared to be rather
taller than his brother, though not so fat. He
is a man about forty-five years of age, and had a

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 33
certain dignity and reserve in his demeanour that
bespoke the chief: he wore a loose blue shirt.
We were not long in bringing the subject of the
temple to his notice, when he immediately said
he would willingly give us his assistance to", have
it opened; pancakes of flour and butter-milk
were now brought, on which we all feasted,
making use of fingers instead of spoons, as these
people have no idea even of the meaning of
utensils of this kind. Coffee was now served* or
rather a substitute for that beverage, which is not
unpalatable; they call it gargadan-; it is a small
black grain, not. unlike the English rape-seed;
this they burn and pound like coffee, and it
would puzzle many people who are not con
noisseurs to find out the difference.
The two chiefs now dwelt much on the
attempts which the French had made to induce
them to consent to the temple's being opened,
appearing to take great merit to themselves for
having resisted all the offers that were made to
them; —the presents were now brought, and given
in the name of Mr. Salt (3) : to Daoud was given
a handsome gun, which at Cairo cost five-hundred
piastres, a turban which cost fifty, and some
other trifles, such as gunpowder, soap, tobacco,
coffee, sugar, &c. To Halleel a turban was pre»
<sented, and; smaller artieles^equal in value to what
D

34 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
his brother had received. We now took our
leave, but had scarce reached our boat when we
heard that Halleel was highly offended because
he had not received a gun as well as his brother.
We immediately waited on him and endeavoured
to appease him, explaining that we were not aware
of the two brothers being both cashiefs, or we would
certainly have brought him a gun as well as Daoud
(the preceding year when Mr. B. was in Nubia,
the younger brother had not assumed the title of
cashief, nor was he treated as such): we promised
that if he would have patience, and confide in our
word, that we would send him another gun
exactly the same as his brother's; or if he pre
ferred it, that we would give him one of our own
guns; though we confessed we had none half so
good as the one we had already given, and
advised him to wait till we got another, as he
would lose much by accepting a bad one. All
was however in vain, as nothing could appease
him; he sat sulky in the corner, saying, he had
better guns than ours, and that he knew what to
do in his own country; meaning that we should
not open the temple. This was a sad and un
expected blow to our hopes ; we began to despair,
and seeing nothing would please him we retired.
A message noAv camfe from Daoud to invite us to
partake of a sheep he had killed in order to

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 35
regale us; we went to his tent but found Halleel
not there: we noticed this, and expressed our
concern at the displeasure he had evinced. Daoud
said his brother was only a boy; that he was
indiscreet, and did not know what he did, and
that we need not mind him. We now sent a
message to him to say that we would not eat
unless he came and ate with us, but he refused.
Daoud now at our request went to bring him;
but failing, he returned, saying, he was only a
boy, and that he pledged himself we should open
the temple. However, as we saw by Halleel's
behaviour that he was of a mischievous disposi
tion, and a person likely to do us great injury,
indirectly, if not directly, we judged it the best
policy to bring about a reconciliation. Mr. B.
accordingly went himself, and after much diffi
culty prevailed on him to come ; he, however, was
still sulky, and we had scarce sat down to dinner
when three strangers, apparently newly arrived,
entered the tent, kneeled and kissed hands, paying
their respects to Halleel before Daoud. We
easily saw through this little trick, which was a
concerted plan between the two brothers, to
induce us to believe that each of them were
equal, the one to the other, and thus to give
Halleel more presents, from a supposition that
his rank was equal to his brother's: the men

36 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
belonged to the suite and were disguised for the
purpose. After we had retired from dinner we went to
see if Halleel was still displeased, and found him
as sulky as ever; our crew and Hassan having
been with him from the first moment of his ill-
humour, and doing all in their .power to put him
against us; for which Daoud had reprimanded
them severely. Perceiving there was no pleasing
him, that neither presents nor promises were of
any avail, we returned to the boat, Daoud having
pledged his word that we should commence on
the temple the following morning. Late in the
evening we received a message from Halleel,
requesting a gun, with some powder and shot : we
immediately gave him ours, which though good
for nothing, was, nevertheless, the best looking in
our stock. This prompt compliance calmed his
anger, and we began to congratulate ourselves on
the prospect of ultimate success in our projected
undertaking. Daoud Cashief sent a sheep. The
only remaining difficulty now was to make the
agreement with the workmen. The Farras man,
who told us at Elpha " that we should hear of
him below," now made his appearance, and en
deavoured all he could to thwart our preceedings;
we, however, took him to the cashiefs and ex
plained his conduct to them, which caused them

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 37
to reprimand him, and he entirely failed in every
point. After much altercation we were glad to
agree for the men to work at two piastres each,
per day.
July 11. In the morning the two cashiefs
came on board, and we proceeded to the temple,
about a quarter of an hour's row from the village.
The chiefs told us we were to have sixty men,
and we paid for that number, while only fifty
came. We were obliged also to give them doura,
as they ah complained of having nothing to eat;
however, we had been at such anxiety about the
temple, that we were glad to give them any
thing provided they would but work. As it most
likely would render you more acquainted with our
proceedings, and the object of our research, to
give you some description of the front of. the
temple, I shall proceed to explain where it was
situated, how formed, and the manner in which
the mysterious door was hidden from our cu
riosity. The temple is situated on the side of
the Nile, about two or three hundred yards from
its western bank; it stands upon an elevation, and
its base is considerably above the level of the river:
it is excavated in the mountain, and its front
presents a flat surface of upwards of sixty feet
in height, above the summit of the sand imme
diately over the door, but not so much as forty

38 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
on the north side, and a little more on the south;
the breadth is one hundred and seventeen feet.
Above thirty feet of- the height of the temple,
from the base, is covered by the accumulated
sand in the centre, and about fifty feet on either
side. You are, therefore, to figure to yourself a
flat excavated perpendicular surface, fronting the
river, and hemmed in by one side of a mountain
of sand leaning against it; the door in the centre
of this plane surface buried in the sand, which
rises on each side of it, increasing the labour and
difficulty of digging down to a prodigious de
gree; for no sooner is the sand in the centre
removed, than that on either -side pours down,
so that to get only a foot down in the centre, we
had the labour of removing the whole surface
of sand which leaned against the front of the
temple ; this sand also was of so fine a description,
that every particle of it would go through an
hour-glass. Refore the front of the temple are
four sitting colossal figures cut out of the solid
mountain, chairs and all: they are, however,
brought out so fully, that the backs do not lean
against the wall or front of the temple, but are
full eight feet from it; and were it not for a
narrow niche of the rock which joins them to
the surface, from the back part of the necks
downwards, they would be wholly detached.

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 39 ,
One of the statues has been broken off by a
fracture of the mountain, from the waist upwards.
There were twenty-two monkeys above the frieze
and cornice ; of these there are not now above
twelve perfect. Under the arm of one of the great
figures we discovered the remains of the stucco
with which they were once covered ; and traces
of the red paint which was onee on them is dis
cernible in many places. I think it very probable
the whole front of the temple was once covered
with stucco, more especially as they have used
that material very liberally and skilfully in the
decoration of the interior, of which I shall speak
more fully in its proper place. Of the cornice over
the door, which was once perfect, there is not at
present more than a foot in breadth remaining, just
over the corner where we entered; in the progress
of our labours, you will see what is become of
the rest, and its mutilation caused us some very
desponding evenings, as may well be imagined
when there was so little indication of the temple
being finished lower down than we could see.
This description will give you some idea of the
obstacles we had to surmount* and, at the same
time, of the good reasons we had to expect a
magnificent interior, should we ever succeed in
the undertaking.
July 1 1 . First day, the fifty men that came

40 travels m [letter 1.
Worked Very badly, and we found that the burthen
of the song which they sungby way of stimulating
each other, was, " that it was christian money they
were working for, that christian money was very
good, and that they Would get as'much of it as they
could :"i~-this Nubian song, though cheering to
them, was not much so to us. In the evening we
returned to the village of Ebsambal, and per
ceiving we should never make arty progress with
people who, being sure of theuvpay whether they
laboured Well or ill, would only work five hours
in the day, we sent to the casMefs, and con
cluded a bargain with them and the natives' " to
open the temple" for three hundred^ piastres. At
this time none of us thought it would take more
than four days to accomplish the undertaking, so
little did we know of the real nature of our en
terprise. On the morning of the twelfth, the two
cashiefs and about one hundred men came and
worked very well, thinking they could open the
temple in one day; they requested we would
not interfere in directing the labourers where to
Work, as it was now their own affair, they had
undertaken the task, and were responsible for its
execution. In the evening our boat's crew came
and begged the intercession of the cashiefs to make
peace ; they were the more anxious for an accom
modation, as by the quarrel they lost the heads,

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 41
skins, and offal of the sheep which we occasionally
killed. We made much ado to give in, but ulti
mately became reconciled; the cashiefs bursting
out into a violent rage against the crew, on our
remarking that no European travellers would
ever come into the country again, when they
heard of the usage we had received. The dispute
was scarcely at an end before our sailors asked
for backsheeish ; this we positively refused till we
arrived at Philae, and then only on condition of
very good behaviour; all came now and kissed
hands in token of reconciliation; At sun-set we
returned to the village of Ebsambal, when the
chief of the labourers asked for two: out of
the three hundred piastres (though they had
consented to be paid only when the temple was
opened) ; we were, however, obliged to give one
hundred and fifty, but said we would give no
more till the work was finished.
July 13. Only Halleel Cashief and about
sixty men came; they worked very ill, and ex
pressed doubts as to there being any door, though
they had not yet got more than four feet down.
While we were endeavouring to persuade them
to persevere, one of the natives, a carpenter, with
an audible voice, made a speech, the substance of
which was, " that they would work the whole of
the present and two successive days, and if in

42 TRAVELS IN [LETTER 1.
that time they found a door, well and good, if
not, that they would labour no longer." This
brief effusion was received with tumultuous ap
probation, in which we thought it good policy to
join, as neither our approval or displeasure would
have had any weight with them, and it was pos
sible our being in good humour with them might
induce them to do their work more cheerfully. In
the evening we returned to the village, complained
to the cashief of the badness of the work, and
noticed the approach of the ramadan, when it
was probable we should no longer be able to
get workmen, and therefore our present efforts
would be useless. Both the brothers now pro
mised us " a host of men next morning," and
that they should begin early. While we were
discoursing, some Mograbins on their way from
Cairo to Dongola were introduced ; we remarked
their melancholy looks, but were ignorant of the
cause. Our business being at an end, we retired
to our boat after having feasted on doura cake
and dripping.
July 14. Rose early, and sent to the cashiefs
that we were ready, but, after waiting for three
hours, they sent word to us to go and they would
join by land ; so busied were they in plundering
the Mograbins, that our temple and ourselves
were not thought of. We accordingly went, and

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 43
found only fifty men doing little more than nothing,
and none of the leaders or attendants present,
except old Mouchmarr, an elderly servant of the
cashiefs. We asked him the reason of his
master's absence, when he said " that we must
not think him a Barbarin, that he was an Arab,
and only lived in this country by force ; that
both the cashiefs were robbers,- and at present
pillaging the caravan of Morocco ; and that the
whole tribe of natives were nothing but a gang
of thieves." We could not help laughing at the
remarks of the old man, which though true
enough, would have come better from another
quarter, as he himself was an old rogue, as you
will perceive in the sequel. At noon Daoud
Cashief arrived ; the men still continuing to work
without effect, we remonstrated with Daoud, but
only received promises of great doings on the mor
row. We returned to the village in the evening,
when the men asked for the remainder of the
money ; this we refused, and in consequence there
was much discontent evinced. Halleel Cashief
now came to endeavour to persuade us to pay the
money, but we persisted in refusing till they had
worked the third day, according to their own
promise. We were now told that if we paid the
money they would come next morning and work,
but if not, that not a man of them would come ;

44 TRAVELS IN [LETTER 1.
we still refused. Halleel how asked for one of Mr.
Salt's handsome pipes, which the crew had told
him was in the boat ; having previously begged
the janissary to give him his silk waistcoat, and
requested of our Greek servant his mameluke
sabre ; this latter article belonged to Mr. Salt,
was very valuable, and to save it, we had pre
tended it was the property of the Greek, not
thinking the cashief would even beg of our
servants. He had also asked the soldier for his
pistols,, offering him a slave in return ; — all was
however refused.
Tuesday, July ] 5. Both cashiefs came and
some of the chiefs ; one in particular, a stranger,
was highly dressed, and we were told he was a
leading character, and had much influence with the
natives ; that nothing could be done without him.
But we had now seen enough of the character of
the Nubians : to perceive that this was only a
trict to induce us to give the new comer some
presents, and we therefore affected to take no
notice of him, determined for the future to give
no more than we could help. In the morning
the men worked well ; our crew assisted them,
and behaved better, but towards the evening the
work went on badly. We returned to the vil
lage; on the way Hassan told us we must go
back to Philae, in order to repair the boat,

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 4,5
which he asserted to be leaky ; we soon gave him
to understand that we had no intention of
returning till we had accomplished our work.
Soon after dark Halleel came to the boat to ask
for the pipe again, but it was refused.
Wednesday, July 3 6. First day of the moon,
ramadan or Turkish fast, during which they do
not eat or drink from sun-rise to sun-set. Early
this morning Halleel sent us a water-melon,
and shortly after made his appearance, begging
the pipe again, which being worth upwards of
sixty piastres, had greatly attracted his notice ;
this third attempt was evaded, and he set off in a
pet, without even taking leave, mounting his. horse
for Derry, where he intended passing the rama
dan. We now went to Daoud's tent to pay him
a farewell visit previous to his departure ; he asked
us what were our intentions respecting the
temple ? We told him we were determined, to
work ourselves, and persevere till we came to
the door ; he appeared much surprised at this,
and said it was impossible we could succeed,
recommending, us to return, and come again after
the month of ramadan, doubtless in the hopes of
getting more presents. To convince him of our
resolution to proceed, we told him that the Nile
would as soon change its course, as we our deter
mination when once it was taken. He now

46 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
asked the sailors if we had solicited their assist
ance, when they told him we had not mentioned
the subject to them, which indeed was true ; he
then asked when we thought we should reach the
door ; we told him that was very uncertain ; he
said if we thought we should be only three or four
days, he would remain, but if more, he must be off:
we answered that we expected to be eight or ten
days before our work would be over. We now
promised, that whenever we should be near the
door, we would give him notice, that he might be
present and get his share of the gold. He gave a
tacit sort of consent for us to proceed, and we
took our leave, thanking him for what he had
done for us. Amongst the warlike instruments
in his tent, we observed a shield made of croco
dile's skin ; it was remarkably strong; one of the
protuberances of the animal's back served for the
boss or centre, and one of those of the tail for the
hollow of the elbow. The natives assured us it
would resist a musket ball ; and if the skin of the
living animal possesses this power, I do not see
why one should doubt the assertion. In general,
Nubian shields are made of the skin of the hip
popotamus. At twelve o'clock we sailed for
the temple, and while going took occasian to
represent to the reis and crew, that now we were
about to be left together, wo hoped they would

I
LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 47
continue to behave well and conduct themselves
peaceably, promising on our part every indulgence
they could reasonably expect, provided we had
no fault to find with them ; they all promised to
behave themselves orderly and quietly. We
dined at one, and at three o'clock set off to begin
our labour, going up alone and quietly that we
might not wake the crew who were asleep on the
beach, as we wished they should be prevented
from rising high in their demands, by an apparent
indifference on our part as to whether they
assisted or not. We now stripped to the waist
and commenced, six in number, including the
Greek servant and the janissary, with a good will,
and soon found that we made considerable pro
gress ; we resolved to keep to our work, and
regularly to persevere from three till dark in the
evenings, and from the very first dawning of the
day till nine in the morning. After we had
worked about an hour some of the crew came
up, they appeared astonished to see us labouring
without shirts, and expressed surprise at the
progress we had made. They now began to
assist, which we appeared to take no notice of;
they worked well, and at dark we left off, having
done as much as (speaking within bounds) forty
of the natives would have done in a day. Our
hands certainly suffered a little by blisters ; I had

48 TRAVELS IN [LETTER r.
nine on one hand, and eight on the other. We
were careful to encourage our sailors, and not to
expect too much from them, as their being prohi
bited, though under a vertical sun, from eating or
even drinking, rendered their case very different
from ours. We returned to our boat in high
glee at the favourable appearance of affairs. We
had scarcely supped and retired to bed when we
heard a strange boat approaching ; it proved to
be Daoud Cashief on his way to Derry; he had
given a passage to one of our sailors who had
waited- behind at the village, to get bread made.
He sent us a kid with salaams, and a request that
we would spare him some of our small coffee-
cups, which were rather handsome : we sent him
two, and at the same time requested of him a
ludri (a skin to contain water), which he gave us ;
lastly, a message came to say that he had left
several of his servants behind him at Ebsambal,
with, orders to assist us with men, to procure us
supplies and provisions, and, in short, to render us
any service we might require. We thanked him,
and' renewed our promise of apprising him when
we should be near the door, that he might not
think we had any secret object in opening the
temple during his absence ; for they all think we
expect to find money should we succeed. Daoud
now departed; we gave our crew two piastres for

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 49
each man, and one to each of the boys ; there:
were six men and two boys. We told them, at
the same time, that if they consented to work at
similar hours, and in the same manner as we did
ourselves, they should daily receive the same
sum: — these conditions were acceded to ap
parently with great eagerness.
Thursday, July 1 7« Started at the dawn of day
and worked hard, fourteen in number, till nearly
nine o'clock, when the sun being at a considerable
height, and shining directly on us, the heat obliged
us to desist : we had made considerable progress,
and as all our efforts were directed in the right
way, we had reason to be well satisfied. The
crew worked tolerably well; Hassan was on the
opposite side of the river getting bread, made,
and looking out for a sheep. Dined at one, and
at three renewed our operations : one of the crew
did not come this evening; we took no notice of
it, resolving to give him only half a day's pay;
the rest worked tolerably well ; we continued
till star-light, and made great progress. At the
latter part'of the evening Hassan returned, having
brought nothing with him; at night we paid the
crew. July 18. In the morning, at the very first
dawning of day, we started to our work again,
and called the crew, but as we expected from
E

5Q TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
the moment Hassan arrived, they all refused to
work, alleging that the pay was not sufficient;
that it was now ramadan, and that they ought to
have thirty piastres per day. Our janissary now
informed us that they had spoken of this aloud
in the night that he might tell us. Seeing them
in this humour, we told them that those who did
not choose to work might let it alone; at half-
past eight we left off, having done nearly as
much work as if they had been with us : indeed
we were astonished to see what steady persevering
labour would do. One of the Ebsambal men
came this morning and worked very fairly, pro
mising to bring ten more on the morrow: there
came also a chief from the opposite side of the
river with an offer of twenty men. We told him
our terms of two piastres per day for each man,
and that it was our intention to pay the money
into the men's own hands, as we learnt that the
cashiefs and chiefs had given each labourer one
piastre only, and retained the other for them
selves. At three, we renewed our operations:
a few of the crew came but worked very badly; —
we left off at dark.
Saturday, July 19- Commenced our labours
before daylight; only two of the crew came and
three other lads; the promised men from Eb
sambal and the opposite side of the river not

LETTER" I."] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 5 1
arriving: we continued working till half-past eight,
when just as we were about to leave off, Halleel
Cashief and his court of bullies made their ap
pearance in a boat, and landing near our bark,
came up to see what was doing. Immediately
we saw them approaching we left off, and went
down to our bark; Halleel and his myrmidons
soon returned. Suspecting their roguish inten
tions, we, to avoid them, went to bathe ; the men
from the opposite side of the river, about thirty
in number, now arrived, but without tools; this
disappointed us a little. On coming out of the
water, we went to visit Halleel Cashief, as a
compliment, to keep up appearances; while so
doing, a desperate dispute took place between
our janissary and Hassan, who seeing the former
was not armed, chaced him into the boat with his
drawn dagger, uttering savage imprecations at
the same time. Halleel made a pretence to inter
fere, but soon after, while we were settling the
dispute, he sneaked away in his boat with all his
attendants, without taking any leave; indeed he
was off before we were aware, and we were very
glad to find him gone.
Our Greek servant now told us he had asked
for some coffee, and on being told there was
none, had desired the servant to say nothing to us
about his having asked for it; he was very inqui-

52 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
sitive about the stay we intended to make, and
seemed desirous we should call on him at Derry
on our return, no doubt in hope of getting some
thing more. The men worked pretty well to
day; the Ebsambal man who had promised to
bring his nine assistants never made his appea
rance; this we clearly saw was Halleel's doing.
At night, when paying the men, we had a dispute
'with the workmen, who endeavoured to impose
on us by false tickets ; these tickets were slips of
paper on which Mr. Belzoni wrote his name and
-issued them out to the workmen in the morning;
on producing them in the evening they received
itheir pay. This day the Darfur caravan, of
four thousand camels, laden with gum, ivory, os
trich-feathers, tamarinds, rhinoceros horns, slaves,
&c. passed on their way to Cairo: the mamelukes
had made them pay nine thousand dollars (up
wards of two thousand pounds) at Dongola.
'Some of the jelabs who led the caravan came
to see our operations: they had long hair
greased with oil and hanging down in ringlets;
some had 'it plaited: they wore sandals, had each
a long spear, and altogether were singular figures.
Sunday, July 20. At twilight we renewed our
labours, and had sixty-four men to work; the
•crew stimulated them by a good example, which
coupled with our own personal attendance, pro-

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 53.
duced a good morning's labour; at three P.M.
recommenced our operations and got on tolerably
well. This evening one of Daoud Cashiefs staff
arrived, with some aqua vitae, and a few dates) as
a present; he also brought Irby and me some new
Nubian clothes; two suits cost us twenty-four.
piastres, or twelve shillings; double what we
had given for better things of the same kind at
Momfalout. In the evening our. cook. threw a
kettle of water in the face of. a bully who asked
him for money in a threatening manner: this
truly cook-like mode of assault unsheathed the
Barbarin's sword , (for the most trivial occurrence
produces their drawn weapons), and it was with
difficulty we could prevent some serious mischief
from ensuing. At night Daoud Cashiefs mes
senger returned, having failed in an attempt to
beg a pipe for his master.
Monday, July 2 1 . This day "no men came from
the opposite side of the river, but we had about
forty from Ebsambal ; they worked tolerably well,
and brought to light the bend of the right
arm of the statue, to the north of the door,
which was much broken: the discovery was
highly satisfactory to us, as it proved that the
statues were seated, and, consequently, that we
should not have to dig down so deep for the
door as if they were standing figures. In "the

54 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
evening the men worked tolerably well, and
towards the close of the day we found a pro
jecting part of the wall roughly chiselled, uneven
in its surface, and having every appearance of
unfinished work. We could not see more than
six or eight inches down, and it still continued
the same: the projection was about four inches
from the plane surface of the front of the
temple, and it appeared to fill up the whole
space between the two centre statues. This
being exactly the place where we expected to find
the door, the sudden change from a flat finished
exterior, to a coarsely' chiselled uneven surface,
was precisely the circumstance most calculated to
give the impression that the temple was unfi
nished, and that there was no door ; indeed we
could not in any other way account for an
appearance so extraordinary and unexpected ;
discouraging as this discovery was, we never
theless resolved to proceed with our work, and
to dig down till we had ascertained beyond all
possibility of doubt, that there was no entrance
to the temple.
About eleven o'clock at night, a boat arrived
from the opposite side ; they did not make any
noise, but the reis sent word that he had brought
a sheep for us ; the message was accompanied
with the present of a water-melon.

BETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 55
Tuesday, July 22. At daylight we found a
great assemblage of people, the boat having
brought them over in the night ; at the same
time there arrived a considerable number from
Ebsambal. As these two parties amounted to
treble the number we wanted, we retired to our
boat to avoid disputes, leaving thirty tickets with
old Mouchmarr, with instruction to employ only
that number ; returning in about half an hour, we
foiapd he hadonly given out twenty of the tickets,
keeping the other ten to himself till the evening,
which would gise him twenty piastres. While
we were settling this with the old rogue, a violent
quarrel ensued between the natives of Ebsambal
and the party from the opposite shore, as to who
should be employed ; and after much noise and
confusion, hostilities having commenced in a slight
degree between the parties, the whole of them
departed shouting and hooting, in number about
two hundred, the strongier, party not .permitting
the Ebsambal people to work. As they retired
our erew serenaded them with repeated cries of,
" foarout, barout," which means powder, powder,
an article they are not very partial to. In the
evening we renewed our labours without any assist-:
ance, bust soon had the crew and about twenty
volunteers, who worked very well considering we
had only three instruments, the Ebsambal men

56 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
having taken away four out of the seven we had
hitherto used. They were of this form,

and the mode of working was to fix the imple
ment perpendicularly in the sand, and then to
pull it forward by a cord attached to it ; one
person was stationed at the handle to fix it in the
sand, and another at the cord by which it was
pulled forward. Instead of one, the Arabs gene
rally employed from four to six men at the cord.
This evening we came to the chair of the statue,
but still no indication of a door ; the unfinished
work continuing, though the figure, drapery and
all, is perfectly finished as far as we could see
down. Wednesday, July 23. It was curious to observe
in the morning, on the smooth surface of the sand,
drifted by the night breeze, the tracks of the
snakes, lizards, animals, &c. &c. which had come
down to the water's side during the night to
drink ; and we could plainly discern the traces of
their return to their solitary haunts in the desert.

LETTER J.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 57
Sometimes their track indicated the presence of
reptiles of considerable size ; and with these
proofs of their nocturnal movements, we easily
accounted for the dread our guides expressed of
walking near the water's side the night we re
turned from the second cataract. We renewed
our operations at the very first appearance of
day, and soon had about twenty-six workmen
together with the crew ; between eight and nine
o'clock, as the people were working* we perceived
a boat laden with men coming over rfrom the
opposite side. As soon as the Ebsambar people
made them out, they all set off with old
Mouchmarr at their head ; the latter saying he
knew who they were, and would go and treat
with them, as they were coming to prevent our
work. The old fellow, it appeared afterwards,
was more intent on his own safety, as both he and
his party went and hid themselves in caves in the
mountains. Suspecting something, we sent for
all our arms from the boat and waited the event.
The newly arrived party now. made their appear
ance, about forty in number, armed mostly with
muskets, pistols, sabres, and pikes ; they were
much better dressed, and made a better figure
than the attendants of Daoud and Halleel.
There were two with white turbans, who ap
peared the leading characters ; these approached

58 TRAVELS IN [LETTER 1.
in advance of their attendants, and after the
usual salaams and ceremony of salute, seated
themselves near us, and presented us with two
sheep, which their men had brought with them.
We now desired our janissary to ask them the in
tention of their visit, and to tell them we had
nothing to dispose of, having given all we had to
spare to the two cashiefs below. They replied
that they wanted nothing, that they were in the
employ of the pashaw, that their office was to keep
order and tranquillity in the country, and that
they wished to know if any obstacles on the part of
the inhabitants rendered their assistance necessary,
as they were ready to be of service to us, hoping
that on our return to Cairo, we should not fail to
speak favourably of them to the pashaw. We
replied that we were going on tolerably well, and
that we did not stand in need of any assistance.
After sitting about half an hour, they went down
to the other temple, followed by all their atten
dants, and soon after sent our Greek servant up
with a message, " that they were at war with the
other two cashiefs ; that they were greater than
them ; that they were the governours of this
country ; that when the others killed one man,
they could kill two ; in short, that we had given
a "gun, shawl, soap, and tobacco, to both Daoud
and Halleel, and why, they wished to know, was

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 69
nothing given to them, who possessed double the
authority of the brothers in this country, and
could prevent our labour whenever they pleased ?
finally, that they must have the same, and more
presents than we had already given, or that
we' should not open the temple." They also
wished to know under what authority we acted,
and desired to see our firman. We replied
to these menaces by the same observations
we had made on their arrival, viz. that we had
already given all we had to give away ; and we
added, that as We had both the pashaw's and
Deftarda Bey's firman for doing what we were
about, any violence offered us would be sure
to reach their ears. Their answer was, that
they cared nothing about the pashaw : on seeing
the firmans* they said they were good for nothing,
being written in Turkish, not Arabic ^ that
they had no Turkish interpreter, ahd that were
the firmans even in Arabic, nothing but presents
would induce them to permit us to proceed. The
crew now thought it a favourable opportunity to
ask for one of the sheep (for each of which we had
given ten piastres), but we immediately refused
their request, explaining, that they were mistaken
if . they thought it a proper time to ask gifts,
when other people were endeavouring to rob and
plunder us ; that as soon as the banditti were;

60 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I-
gone, and we were at our own disposal, we might
give them something, but never through fear of
them, or to gain their favour. Soon after the
two cashiefs and their gang proceeded to Eb
sambal ; we now learnt that they were Mahomed
and Ali Cashief, that they lived a little above
Derry, on the opposite side of the river, and were
at war with Daoud and Halleel in consequence of
their grandfather (Hassan's father) having killed
some relation of Ali's many years ago. This is
what the Barbarins call the " warfare of blood
for blood," and it always lasts till an individual of
one family is sacrificed to appease the other (4).
Sometimes this hostility exists for many ages
between families ; and it is for this reason, that
a murderer, who is one of our crew, dares not
go to Philae or the neighbourhood of Assuan,
where he committed the crime.
At three P. M. renewed our operations and
had a considerable number of assistants ; it was
truly ridiculous to see old Mouchmarr now make
his appearance, with his matchlock in his hand,
and a few of the Ebsambal people. He took
especial care to examine both up the river and
down, to be sure that the cashiefs were well out
of sight; and when he found the coast clear, he
came to us to relate how his people had been in
the habit of making slaves and prisoners of the

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 6l
other party; what numbers they had bound to
gether and thrown into the Nile, &c: we rallied
him a little about his intercession. We found
that the cashiefs had prevented many of our
assistants from coming, and that they had plun
dered the whole country, taking two sheep from
every sackey, and ten*piastres from those who
could not procure the animals. We also learnt
that a fine of four dollars (thirty-six piastres)
was to be levied on every one who came to our
assistance. This evening our men worked very
well; as they did not belong to Ebsambal, they
knew they were out the cashiefs' reach.
Thursday, July 24. At dawn of day went to
Tvork again; as we had broken our water-jars we
asked the crew for our ludri which we had lent
them, but Hassan said it was ramadan, and that
as they could not drink water in the day time,
they wanted our ludri to keep if cool for them
in the evening, and that they would return it
when they got to Philae. We gave them to un
derstand that we liked cool water as well as they
did,, and desired the janissary to take the skin
without further ceremony; asking them at the
same time if that was gratitude for the sheep we
gave them yesterday: Hassan answered, that the
sheep was lean and good for nothing, or we
-should not have given it. This morning we had

62 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
about twenty workmen, but neither Mouchmarr
nor the Ebsambal men came; after we had
worked about an hour a party of about thirty
came from the opposite side and volunteered to
assist: as they were more than we wanted, and
came late, we told them we would give them one
and a half piastre each if they would work; this
they rejected at first, but soon returned and
agreed. After they had worked nearly an hour,
four other men came and solicited employ ; these
we refused, when one of them displaying a dirty
white turban as a flag, drew all the whole party
off with a shout. After about a quarter of an
hour's stay, however, they returned, having been
told that we could do without them: the work
now went on pretty well, the armed ruffians not
making their appearance. In the evening the peo
ple worked very badly, being so numerous that
one skulked behind the other.
Friday, July 25. Got up at dawn of day and
found one hundred men assembled, though the
night before we told them that we did not want
any more assistance: we explained this to them
again, adding, that at most we could not employ
more than twenty: they replied, that we must
employ them all or none. Seeing them in this
mood we returned to our boat, resolving to wait
till they were all gone, and knowing that the

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 63
heat of the sun, at nine o'clock, would soon drive
them away. After much noise amongst them
selves, and numerous ineffectual parleys, they all
set off, taking all the instruments with them,
and threatening our crew that if they assisted
us they would acquaint Daoud and Halleel
Cashief of it; thus showing that these brothers
had ordered that no assistance was to be rendered
us. Our sailors laughed at them, saying, they
cared nothing about the cashiefs or any one else.
Soon after this the whole rabble crossed the
water, having a dirty white turban (the pro
phet's banner) hoisted. At three we renewed
our work with six instruments which we had
made ourselves : the "crew and also that of, ano
ther bark came, and assistance was also offered
from a few others : we got on tolerably well.
Saturday, July 26. At dawn of day went up
to our employment with the assistance we had
the preceding evening, in all about twenty-three
persons; our servants had another quarrel with
the crew. A mameluke arrived from Dongola;
he reported his countrymen in great misery at
that place. He was on his way to Cairo' to see
his mother: his father was included amongst the
mamelukes who were massacred at Cairo by the
pashaw some years ago, and he had escaped with
his uncle, who being lately dead, the lad was on

64 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
his return to his only surviving parent. We now
learned that Mahomed and Ali Cashief were
gone down the river again with their plunder.
In the evening renewed our operations. A man
who had received money for our bread on the
opposite side of the river, refused to bring it : we
had a dispute in consequence, and, after much
noise and confusion, half the quantity we paid for
was brought, which we were glad to get. We
now found the price of every thing we bought
had doubled since our arrival ; the natives hoped
by these means to force us to relinquish our
work, and, with our eyes open, we were obliged
to submit to the imposition.
Sunday, July 27. At dawn of day set to work
again, and had only two assistants besides the
crew, who worked remarkably well: several vo
lunteers came, but we rejected them on account
of their laziness. One of our two assistants this
morning sang a song to cheer up the crew ; this is
their constant custom when working; the words
are as follows: " Oh Nubia, my country, thou
smellest like a rose; when I sleep I dream of
thee, and thou appearest a garden full of flowers."
You may easily imagine that our ideas of Nubia,
" where a flowering shrub is scarcely ever seen,"
were not in unison with those of our neighbour.
We, however, found this a new proof of that

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 65
happy disposition which nature implants in the
breast :of -every man -to be partial to -his native
soil, be it what it may.
" The naked negro panting at the line,
Boasts of his golden sands and palmy wine: •J
Basks in the glare, or. sterna the tepid wave, :. ;
And thanks his gods for all the good they gave.
Such is the patriot's boast where'er we roam, •
His first, best country, ever is, at home."
At three we recommenced our -operations; while
we were working, arrived a spy from Daoud
Cashief, who after having deliberately examined
us, -began by talking to the crew to draw them
off. from the work : he then asked old Mouchmarr,
who had just arrived- from the village with some
bread- for us, 'how he dared assist us; -adding,
that the cashiefs would cut off his, head, for it.
This news did not appear very agreeable to
our friend, who was now deterred from' working
as he had done the preceding day. Our young
mameluke friend who understood the Barbarin
language, unknown to the crew and natives, told
ns of this. The spy then informed us that a
firman had arrived, from the grand signior to
supersede the pashaw in his government, and that
new troops were now at. Cairo. So paltry an
attempt to alarm us, was answered by a hearty
laugh, which made both the spy and his country-

!66 TRAVELS IN [LETTER -I.
men look Tery foolish, until seeing the joke went
against them, they put it off by a laugh also.
In the evening old Mouchmarr came to be paid
for his bread, and on being asked to bring more,
said he did not, like to tell us a falsehood, and
that he had strict injunctions against bringing
any thing more, or indeed rendering us any fur
ther assistance. We further learned that the
whole of the natives on both sides of the river
had mutually agreed that nothing was to be- sold
tons. It was, hinted that we might have some
men to work if weohose; however, as our money
was getting low, andfas we, ha$; found that we
¦ffid, almost as much without, as with; them, we
sent word that we wanted nothing of them; we
h#d> [three, days bread, and our work had arrived
at a point which, .would soon ascertain- whether
there was any door or not> we felt ourselves
therefore quite independent of our troublesome
neighbours. Old Mpuchmarr now. took his leave ;
ijtjis but justice, to thereld: man tosay, that he
belayed .better, than , any of his countrymen.
Monday, July 28. , Commenced our operations
at the usual hour, with only our sailors and the
mameluke, no Ebsambal. men making their ap
pearance ; all worked pretty . fly ell. , This morning
no milk was brought; .we affected to take no
notice whatever of it, and at breakfast-, were par-

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 67
ticularly careful that the crew (who came down
and were watching us narrowly to see what effect
the want of this luxury would have) should ob
serve no change in consequence, that they might
report to the natives the poor success of their
scheme. At three renewed our labours; while
working, an Ebsambal man came to see what
was going on; he said that if we wished it, a
certain number of people would come from each
sackey to assist, and he asked us if we wanted
provisions ; we refused all' assistance. He then
asked if we could live on stones ? we replied, that
we had a boat to go and fetch whatever we
wanted, and that money would always procure
something; he now said we might think ourselves
fortunate in having a soldier of the paghaw's with
us, as were it not for fear of the consequences,
in case any thing should happen to him, the
whole body of natives would prevent our work
by force. We replied, that we were determined
to proceed; and that even were the soldier not
with us, we would persist in our undertaking.
He now began to brag of the number of armed
people they could muster from the neighbour
hood : we, however, laughed, at him, and he left us,
having failed in all his ,d©signs. Our crew this
evening worked very well, and we thought it good
policy to tell them we noticed their exertions.

68 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
Tuesday, July 29- At dawn of day we recom
menced our labours with the crew, and made
considerable progress, no strangers making their
appearance, the one who assisted us yesterday
being deterred by the threats of the spy. In the
evening, at three, renewed our work ; towards the
close of day the sailors requested to be dismissed,
that they might go to Ebsambal to get bread for
themselves. We suspected some bad intentions
on their part, but said nothing: Hassan had
previously endeavoured to steal some of our
dour a (for bread we had none), but we were too
sharp for him, and made his boy give us back
what he had taken.
Wednesday, July 30. At twilight we went
to work again, the crew coming as usual: this
morning our milkman brought us milk again,
but said he was obliged to do it clandestinely.
This was a real luxury, as we found, after four
hours hard work on an empty stomach, that a
limited ration of doura grain, dried dates, and
water, to which we were now reduced, was not
very sumptuous fare. The reis of the bark, who
had before cheated us out of our bread, now made
his appearance again with some spirituous liquors,
which he said he had brought as a present from
the wife of Daoud Cashief. We clearly saw this
was a trick to get a present to the bearer, which

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND. NUBIA. 69
is generally, double the value of the article given ;
we therefore refused the. present, but, offered to
purchase what he had; after, some hesitation he
consented: — it was the spirit distilled from the
date, but without the addition of aniseed, .which in
Egypt makes it palatable. We generally took a
little before dinner as a tonic; for .without some
thing of the kind, (the average of ,the thermometer
being one hundred and twelve degrees Fahrenheit
in the shade) we found that we had no appetite.
As soon as he had got his money he took himself
off to the other side of the river, having evidently
come to see if we yet began to complain for want
of provisions, But although we had nothing to
eat but dour a, and only enough of that for four
days, we7 never once mentioned the subject of
-provisions.; This evening we came to a projection,
evidently a cornice, though much broken by the
shock of an immense block of stone that had
fallen on it. Beneath the projection we found a
plane and. smooth surface, and a tablet of neat
hieroglyphics, highly finished, carved thereon; the
most favourable indication of a door we could
possibty expect, and which much cheered our
prospects. At three we returned to our operations, and by
digging down and carrying away the sand with two
boxes, we removed a sufficient quantity to make

70 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
out about a foot of a tablet surmounted by a torus,*
and one end of a broken cornice above it; which,
having been broken by some accident, has evi
dently been chiselled away since its completion*
with the design of renewing ¦ it : the furSroWed
surface, and the marks of the tools in all direc
tions, though rudely done, and quite unfinished,
prove this to be the case, and thus the mystery of
the Unfavourable appearances which had formerly
given us so much uneasiness is cleared lip. This
evening Hassan asked, with more than usual
impudence, for the pay of the crew, adding, that
he wanted it immediately before it was dark.
Thursday, July 31. At twilight resumed our
task; palisadoed the part supposed to be imme
diately over the door, by driving in piles of date-
trees, and pouring at the back of them mud
mixed with sand to keep the outer sand from
running in between them. Just as we were going
to desist from our Work, some armed men came
from the opposite side of the river, who had
been called over by Hassan: we enquired the
reason of his calling them over, when he said he
wanted the boat from the opposite side, to go
and get some provisions for the crew. Our sailors
talked freely with the strangers; we took no
notice of them; they appeared very intent on
what we were doing. This day the mameluke

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 71
took his departure for Cairo ; he went on a jsmall
reed raft which a Nubian was conducting down
the river; Hassan ran with great eagerness, to
send some message by the stranger; no doubt
to apprise the cashiefs below of the progress of
our work, ,
In the evening we resumed our labours with
the crew and two strangers ; towards sun-s§t we
came to the corner of the door; it was rather
broken. The sailors, on seeing it, expressed great
signs of joy, uttering cries of" backsheeish, back
sheeish," and immediately asked us if it was not
true, that we had promised them, money when
ever we should find the door : we replied, that we
certainly had promised them a present, and would
give it when we had entered the temple., The
fellows now began working hard to enlarge the
entrance, appearing in high good humpur, and
occasionally repeating the favourite word " back
sheeish," tyep, tyep — good, good. At dusk we
had made an aperture nearly large enough for a
man's body, but we could not tell whether the
sand would be necessary to be drawn up from
the entrance or not, which left us in great unr
certainty .as to the time when our labours would
end; for should the temple be much filled with
sand, we might have a prodigious deal, of wo#k to
da yet. When we returned to the boat, Hassan

72 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
told Captain Irby and myself, it was totally im
possible we could ever get into the temple:' by
palisadoing; that the sand would fall on us as fast
as we dug down, and that it was like attempting
to dig into the Nile; at the same time he offered
to forfeit his beard if we succeeded ; all the crew
joined in the same assertion. But it was the only
method of getting at the door, unless we cleared
it 'altogether, which would have taken a good
month more.
We resolved to begin the next morning by
moon-light, and apprised the crew of our inten
tion, that they might not think we wanted to
steal in by ourselves, and thus bring away the
gold unknown to them. As the day's discovery
had put us all in good humour, our sailors at
tempted to profit by it; they asked our cook for
his new silk waistcoat, and begged of the Greek
his new blue gown; they did not solicit any thing
furtheV from us, thinking it best to wait till they
got our backsheeish.
At moonlight on Friday morning, August the
first; the anniversary of the battle of the Nile, we
rose and went to work. We called the crew,
but as they did not appear in any hurry to
come, we went up - alone with lights ; while
making our arrangements to begin, we heard a
great noise below, plainly distinguishing Hassan's

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBlA. 73
roaring voice above all the rest, and the word
backsheeish frequently repeated. The Greek
servant being sent down for a lamp* returned
with an account that they were all abusing us,
and complaining that after having worked hard
for us, they only received two piastres per day,
instead of four which they merited (I should here
tell you that their monthly wages from the reis,
were from seven to nine piastres each man). •' We
were called christian dogs without faith, and they
said we must take all our things out of the boat
immediately,' as they would stay no longer,
having remained till they were tired, and in a
place were they could get no provisions. Mr.
Belzoni now went down to find our hammer
which was mislaid, resolving to abstain from any
argument with them ; immediately on seeing him
they all fell down on their kness, and began pray
ing/ bowing down, and kissing the ground accord-
ingto their custom. He took no notice^ of them,
but brought all our arms and ammunition up ;
the janissary also went and brought his pistols,
Hassan saying in his hearing, that he must
carry a soldier on his back to Derry, implying
that he must murder the janissary, though it was
but the day before that he came to him saying that
he wished to make peace, and that what he had
formerly said against him came from his warmth
of temper, and not from his heart.

74 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
As soon as we had commenced working .'by
candle-light, one of the crew came to say that we
must embark immediately and depart, or land
our effects and let the boat go, as they could wait
no longer; we sent word that they might go
whenever they pleased, but it would be to their
owh loss if they did, as we would pay them
nothing ; and that for our part we were deter
mined to remain till our work was completed;
having said this, we continued our work. The
crew now made their appearance in a body,
dressed in their turbans and gowns* as at Elpha ;
this being their custom when they wish to appear
of consequence. They were armed with long
sticks, pikes, swords, daggers, and two old rusty
pistols, which would be more likely to kill the
person who fired, than him who was fired at. In
reply to our inquiry of what they wanted, they
made long complaints of being badly paid, and
of never having received any adequate recompence
for having brought us provisions from the neigh
bouring villages, and for all their other endea
vours to please us ; that they had waited here till
the last moment, and must now go down the
river, all -at the same time joining in savage
imprecations, and scraping the sand with their
hatchets and swords ; the reis, who was the fore
most of the party, in feigned paroxysms of anger,

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 75
threw the sand up in his face, where the perspi
ration caused it to stick (s) ; at the same time we
were accused of calling out " barout, bar out," to
the Ebsambal people, though it was themselves
that first taught us the meaning of that word.
As all this farce was performed; to intimidate us,
and to extort a sum of money from us as a reward
for their remaining till the temple was opened,
we took care that they should see by our conduct
that the scheme entirely Jailed; therefore, avoiding
all passionate behaviour, we replied coolly and de
liberately to all their lying imputations, telling
them that if they studied their own interests, they
would behave very differently ; that this of all
others was the most unlikely method to obtain any
thing from us ; and that as they had staid ninety-'
nine days, why not remain the hundredth ? After
several other arguments, all as useless as they
were false, one of the crew stepped forward, *arid
pretended to be a peace-maker ; the janissary
meantime had squeezed himself through the hole,
and entered the temple during thedebate unknown
to them, till one of the strangers having stolen be
hind to see what work we had done, found it out,
and apprised the crew. They now seeing them
selves foiled in every way, pretended to sufler the
mediator, with some reluctance, to disarm them,
and then began stripping to work, laughing, and

76 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
repeating tyep, tyep — good, good. Berby tyep,
(berby, means temple). We deemed it our best po
licy to suppress our feelings and appear reconciled.
Hassan had told the cook that they could murder
us all if they chose ; that neither law or justice
were known in this country ; that they could, after
committing the crime, fly to the mountains, where
no one would pursue them ; that they were not the
poor people we took them for ; that they had kept
the French at bay four years; that they kept their
own slaves, cattle, &c. &c. We were not told of
these expressions of theirs till we went down to
breakfast at ten o'clock.
We now entered the temple, and thus ended all
our labours, doubts, and anxiety. This morning
we built a wall to barricade the door ; it was
made of stones and. mud, with a, foundation. of
date trees driven in to prevent the sand from
giving way. A toad crept out of the temple
while we were thus employed, and hid himself, in
the rubbish at the entrance. . We now brought
down to: the boat some statues of calcarious stone
which we found in the temple. There were two
sphinxes, emblematical of. Osiris (lion's body and
hawk's head) ; a monkey similar to those over the
cornice, only smaller ; and a kneeling female
figure, with an altar having a ram's head on it in
her lap. At three we went to work again; two

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 77
of the Ebsambal peasants came, and appeared
astonished that we had succeeded. They said
the country people had no idea we should have
accomplished our undertaking. They appeared
to think the temple would make a good hiding
place for their cattle, &c. whenever the Bedouins
came to rob them.
Saturday, August 2. Continued working at
the wall before the door. Hassan asked for some
of our money to go and purchase a sheep, sti
mulated no doubt by the expectation of the share
they always had, viz. the entrails, skin, and head,
none of the former of which the crew rejected ;
on one occasion I saw one of them eating that
part raw, as they were skinning the animal. Re
duced as we were to nothing but doura, a grain
not unlike pearl barley, we told our friend it was
to no purpose to bring us meat when we had no
bread, and that unless he brought the latter, we
did not want or wish him to bring the former ;
they now took the money, promising to bring
us bread also. We did not employ the sailors
this evening, having finished the wall. Hassan
was roaring and grumbling all day about
money, in hopes that his bawling would induce
us to give more; we took no notice of him,
determined to give the money when they had put
the statues into the boat ; for we how perceived

78 TRAVELS IN [LETTER L
there was a great difficulty made about them.
We this day took all the measurements of the
temple, both externally and internally; Captain
Irby and I undertaking this task, while our com
panions were emplpyed about their drawings.
Towards the close of the evening the man brought
us some cakes of doura and a sheep, for which,
however, he made us pay thirteen piastres, a
third more than the articles were worths
Sunday, August 3. This morning some Ebsam
bal people brought us some butter and a lamb ;
we told them, however, that now they might keep
their provisions to themselves. In the evening
the crew, after mueh disputing with Hassan (who
was against the measure), put the statues into
the boat ; this being the condition on which they
were to receive the backsheeish. Soon after this
we gave them a present of forty piastres amongst
them ; we had considerable difficulty in satisfying
them, for : the reis, on perceiving the money,
snatched it up, saying it was his shqrq ; we,
however, took it from him, and distributed it
according to our original plan.
I shall now give you some further particulars
respecting the exterior of the temple, and then
proceed to notice! the most prominent beauties of
thft interior. The four colossal figures in front of
the temple are all of men ; they are in a sitting

LETTER I. J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 79
posture, above sixty, feet high, and the two which
are partly uncovered, are sculptured, in the,, best
style of Egyptian art ; and are in a much higher
state of preservation than* any colossal, statues
remaining in Egypt. They are, uncovered at
present only as far as the breast ; , before the
recent excavations, one of the faces was alone
partly visible, and part of the headrdress of
the other-remaining two. The face of the statue,
whether taken in the. front view or profile,, ex
hibits one of the most perfect specimens of
beauty- imaginable ; it has so far resisted the
effects pf fimg, as not to have the least scratch or
imperfection ; and there is that placid serenity
which one admires, in mpst of the Egyptian
countenances. The face of the statue, Np. 3, has
a more serious aspect, the nose is not so. aquiline,
nor is the mouth so , well turned; it is not,
however, without; its beauties, and perhaps a
better judge, would say the features possess more
character than , the former. , The. statues are not,
however, without .their, imperfections ; the necks
are short, out of all proportion, and the ears are
placed., considerably too, high, a dffect very com
mon amongst, the, Egyptian figures,;, thp bodies
also seem to lean rather too much .forward for
the natural position of a^itting figure. However,
it was. hardly fair to pass one's judgement on this

80 TRAVELS IN , [LETTER I.
latter defect, as being partly uncovered, they
could not be seen to proper advantage.
Little or no space appears to have been left
between the figures on either side, and scarcely
more in the centre than sufficient for the door.
Immediately above the door, which was formerly
surmounted by a cornice, now broken, is a tablet
of hieroglyphics, over which is an oblong square
niche enclosing a standing figure of a hawk-headed
Osiris, in full relief, projecting no more than the
depth of the niche itself. On the head of this
figure is a globe, and below, on each side of the
legs, are two symbols, which appear suspended
from his hands ; one is a small female figure, the
other a staff surmounted with the dog's or fox's
head. On either side of the niche is a female
figure in intaglio, presenting an offering to the
Deity, and various hieroglyphic inscriptions, pro
bably descriptive of the oblations. The cornice
above the door presents a very curious appearance;
it has been broken by a fall of part of the rock
above, and the chisel has since been evidently
employed to form the remaining part into some
other shape, or to fashion it in a manner ready
to admit of the building of a new cornice, or some
other ornament of that description.
The interior of the temple is one hundred and
fifty-four feet long, by fifty-two broad, (exclusive

mum

Drawn on a Scale offe ofanInch,tea,fbot>.
Nate . ^£W u\e Statues and JFragrrumts
referred, to, are nzacdy in, the situation^
-in, wTvich fhey were fbtazd .

References.
J. Sabf of Stat*** holding a,JlcunsiSecLcl.
2 Fart of a,Hdbrikey .
& FedestaZ of 'a, large Statue-, — erect' .
4. Statue answering to the. above pedestal ¦
5 Jrzonsoody'wah\,lTatvks hecub — imperfect-
6 JZemMining -part ofJV?2.
7 Xians body -widvMa*v7cs head — perfect
8 Fragment ofMrass, being part? of die Socket
of a, "hinge.
a Semxtinina part of IffJ- ¦
±0 Fragment.
11 fragment ¦
J2 -*£ heccutifulby sculptured -nude figure, -erect
about: 6 feet high,, imperfect, and too rrvuch/
decayed to admit of its removal- .
IS JECole, through/ -which, the party entered/ .

hi

¦-q

[

Us

- Opcncd^Iug?l-rtJ8l7. by drsiie ofJMTSaU: present Jtfess"B<xdi,v
ScHelxoni, & Captains CJrbv Sc J.3Tang7cs , R.2f-
¦ The time employed uv^uuxj-uu/ away tfic sand was 22 days; tile.
first 5 the work was aone byiOoJVaai'tv paid byjTenry SabtFsal
fMBJO'. Consul Gen2in\JSgypt ;}fhe last 27 days only the four
perso7is abovementicned, assisted bv a Turkish, Soldier and,
a Creel Servant laboured, at die undertaking { 'the natives having
refused -farther assistance) vix-to hours each day .fivm daybght
tiU 8 in, the morning, & f-om, S fvihen fheiyfountain afforded
themaShade/ till du^k: the depth, of sand dug down, was about
5o feet. -Ihe average height oftheTheTin the shade during
the. operations was J32 1 cf Fahrenheit .
During dielast S days their food consisted of only doura, He
water, the nccuves having cut off iheu- supplies iri order to prevent
them, fronv accomplishing their object ¦

t

IT n

A Thegrekt Chamber S6 feet by> 53.
B Square [(hlumns , ¦with, standing Statues of
Osiris 3" feet high/ attached, to them,.
C Square Columns supporting the 2 f* Chamber ¦
D -dl±ar viihe inner duzmber or Sanctuary .
JE Jour sitting Statues at die extremity of the same.
F 13enches .
G Chamber never -nmshert, .
Scale of Feet.

r

Exterior •Facade. 217 feet, across, 4 sitting Statues"; ¦ ¦ ffoHet hiaTv, and, 26 feet across the- shoulders, attached to it/.

Seduced b\'SF.Dessicu,,FJ7'.— ScFrigravedhylXSentvood.
3o,Walc Sort Row, JTmningtan,.

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 8 1
of the side chambers) it is comprised of fourteen
separate apartments, whereof the first is a prin
cipal hall fifty-seven feet, by fifty-two ; the
second, . an anti-chamber, thirty-seven feet, by
twenty-five ; the narrow chamber crossing the
other two, thirty-seven feet, by nine feet eleven
inches ; after which comes the sanctuary, twenty-
three feet seven inches, by twelve feet three inches ;
the rest are side apartments, whimsically placed
in various directions. The interior of this temple
is a work not inferior to any excavation in Egypt
or Nubia, not even excepting the Tombs of the
Kings ; indeed the effect produced on first en
tering it, may be considered as more striking
than any which those can afford ; the loftiness of
the cieling, the imposing height of the square pil
lars, and of the erect colossal statues attached to
them, full thirty feet high ; and the whole dimen
sions of the apartments on a much larger scale
than any of the other excavations, all contribute
to render the interior of this temple not less
admirable than its splendid exterior.
The sculpture on the walls is not so well
finished, nor the colouring so perfect as in the
Tombs of the Kings, but the composition and
invention of the design, and the spirited execution
in the performance, may be considered as fully
equal to any thing in Egypt. The extreme heat

82 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
and closeness of the apartments, occasioned by the
want of a free circulation of air, have contributed^
materially to injure the colouring, but enough
still remains by which to judge of what is lost,
and to convince the spectator of the original
beauty of the work. The most conspicuous
groups appear to represent the victories of some
celebrated hero, apparently the same who is
depicted at Medinet Aboo, Luxor, Carnack, and
other parts of -Egypt, together with the trium
phant processions and consequent offerings to the
deities. There is little difference in these groups,
from the similar sculptures in the buildings above-
mentioned ; the hero appears in the same manner
in his car ; he is of a gigantic stature, and is
destroying his enemies with his arrows ; the;
vanquished sue for mercy ; the discomfiture and'
flight of their companions ; the procession of the
prisoners, and the distribution of the other parts of
the groups, are likewise nearly the same. The hero
himself appears to be no other, but the prisoners
seem to be of different nations from those repre
sented in other places ; and it is not a circum
stance of little interest to see here, painted in
glowing colours, the costumes of the various
tribes of the interior of Africa, at a date so re
mote, that one knows no where, else to look for.
any description either of their manners or their

LETTER I. J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 83
customs. How interesting would a minute copy
of these groups be to travellers in the interior of
Africa! who could compare them with the customs
of the present day. Some of the captives are per
fectly black, and have all the characteristics of the
tribes of the interior of Africa — such as woolly
hair, thick lips, long sleek limbs, &c. ; others are
of a lighter hue, not unlike the present race of
Nubians. The most common dress consists of
the leopard's and tiger's skin, fastened round the
waist, while the upper part of the body remains
uncovered. The cap which they most commonly
wear is of a construction which I do not recollect
to have observed elsewhere, and appears to con
sist of the leaves of the palm tree, dried and cut
in slips; while the workmanship is a sort of neat
plaiting, apparently worked with much ingenuity.
Those who wear the caps have no hair, but some
are distinguished by bushy hair and beards.
In one of the groups is represented the storm
ing of a fortress, of very singular construction,
which is defended by people of the race just
mentioned. On the top are seen women, among
whom, one in a sitting posture, wholly divested of
drapery, and of a light complexion, bears no
resemblance > in character or attitude to those
represented in other places by the Egyptians.
The hero who directs the assault of this fortress

84 TRAVELS in [letter r.
is, as usual, of gigantic stature. On the plain
below are seen the peasants driving their cattle
away from the presence of the conqueror, designed
with great spirit of action; some of the besieged
party are also kneeling and imploring clemency.
The arrows are flying from all quarters amongst
the defendants, and some are seen plucking them
from their foreheads, arms, and other parts of the
body. Large stones hurled down from above, do
not in any way intimidate the attacking party.
The group of twelve supplicating victims, which
the hero is represented in another part as
grasping with one hand by the united hair of
their heads, while with the other he uplifts the
axe to sacrifice them, is executed with much
energy and force ; and the marked difference of
character in the several countenances of the
various tribes they belonged to, is executed in a
masterly style ; the expression of agony and
despair in their several features are finely traced.
In this temple we found several detached
statues of calcarious stone ; one of which, a little
larger than life, is executed in a better style than
is generally to be met within Egyptian sculpture;
the head and lower part of the legs are wanting,
as well as one of the arms, but the remaining
parts sufficiently attest the skill and good taste
of the sculptor. The figure is an upright one,

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 8.5
and seems to have represented either Osiris y or
the hero depicted on the walls. The surface of
what remains is scarcely injured; but the sub
stance of the stone is so decayed by time, that any
attempt to remove it would probably occasion its
total destruction. I have already described the
other statues which we brought away. These
were found in different parts of the temple; half
a monkey at one end, and the other half at the
other, and so on.
How long this temple, has been buried, is a
question which must ever remain unanswered ;
forty feet of sand had accumulated in the centre
above the top of the door, before the recent ex
cavations, which were carried no further than
three feet below the top of the entrance. There
is reason to suppose that the temple was deserted
before any sand had collected in front of it, but
there is nothing either in the interior or without,
that ean indicate the age in which it was aban
doned. Very little sand was found in the temple
compared with what might have been expected;
it did not reach beyond the second pilaster, and
was not much broader than the door-way. This,
no doubt, is partly owing to the great depth
(eighteen feet eleven inches) of the entrance.
A light black substance, which seemed to be
decayed wood, was found in every apartment, in

86 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
some places of the depth of two feet ; its surface;
allowing for the difference of colour* was not
unlike that of snow, when it has been frozen over
by one night's frost; it cracked under the foot,
leaving the impression. Many small pieces of
wood were strewed about, apparently little in
jured by time, but which, on being touched,
crumbled into dust. The wooden pivots on
which the doors traversed, still remain in the
upper corner of all the entrances to the different
chambers; and we also found small fragments of
wood in many places. Some of these appeared so
perfect that we thought of bringing them away,
but they mouldered at the first touch ; we were,
therefore, very careful in leaving what remained
for the benefit of future travellers. A broken
brass socket, for the pivot of a door to traverse
on, was also found.
The extreme heat of the temple was such, that
Mr. Beechey spoiled his drawing-book, while only
copying one of the groups; the perspiration
having entirely soaked through it. It has the
feeling and the effect of the hottest vapour bath.
In the centre of the sanctuary is a bench with
four sitting statues ; the one on the right is
Osiris, with the hawk's head and globe; the
others are human figures ; two have the crux
ansata -^- in their hand. I shall send you a

LETTER I.J EGYPT ANP NUBIA. 87
ground plan to convey some idea of the form of
the temple, and also of the whimsical disposition
of the chambers.
I will conclude this long description with
a few remarks on the eight standing figures of
Osiris, thirty feet high, which ornament the outer
hall, and between which is the passage into the
interior of the temple. These figures are as well
proportioned as they are highly finished; the
drapery reaches nearly half way down to the
knees, and is striped like that of the figures
without. The features of the countenances are
perfect, and they all have the hook and scourge
(the usual emblems of Osiris) in either hand,
which are across on the breast. The arrangement
of the statues in the ground plan is exactly as
we found them.
I shall now describe what we, speaking com
paratively, call the small temple of Ebsambal.
The direction of the river here is'W. S. W.
and E. N. E.; both the temples are situated
on the left bank, at the ends of the two
mountains which form the valley, by which the
sand which has buried the great temple found
its passage. Both are cut out of the solid rock,
which is of a sandy or calcarious nature. The
easternmost and smallest appears to have been
made before the other, as the style of the colossal

88 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
statues which are sculptured in the front of it,
are ruder than that of the large one, and appear
to have been cut in a less advanced state of the
art. The front of the temple is not perpendicular,
but sloping from the top to the bottom: six square
spaces are excavated in the surface, serying as
nichea to the same number of colossal figures,
the remaining part being left in the form of
buttresses projecting ten feet at the base beyond
the inside of the niches:— the door is in the
centre, with three erect figures, one a female (Isis)
with a male on each side of her: these latter re
present Osiris. On either side, between these
colossal statues, are two figures of about six feet
high, which reach nearly to the knees of the for
mer; those supporting the male figures appear to
represent Horus, while the others near Isis are
females. The space left in the centre, and in
which the door is cut, is more than twice the
breadth of the other projections between the
figures, and slopes on the same plane with them
for about one-third of its length : it then de
scends somewhat more perpendicularly, and in
this lower plane is the door cut, without any
other projection. The points of the projecting
buttresses are covered with hieroglyphics, and a
single line of them extends along the top of the
niches for the whole breadth of the temple, of

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 89
which it forms the ornamental summit. Imme
diately above "the door is an offering to Osiris,
and on each side of it are hieroglyphics as on
the other projections; a line of serpents and
globes surmounts the offering, similar to what
is often met with over the doors of Egyptian
temples. The height of the projecting buttresses
nearest the door is thirty-four feet seven inches,
taken in the angle of the others thirty-eight feet,
their projection at the base ten feet, that of the
door only seven feet six inches; the distance
between each buttress, eight feet three inches;
breadth of the buttresses, four feet seven inches.
The height of the female figures is twenty-four
feet six inches* not including the head ornament
which reaches to the top of the buttress. The
male figures are twenty-five feet eight inches
high, and their head dresses four feet ten inches.
The height of the door-Way is eleven feet six
inches; width, four feet ten inches ; the length of
its passage into the temple, twelve feet nine inches.
The whole width of the ornamented front of the
temple is eighty-eight feet, and its height, in a
perpendicular line, may be about forty feet.
The interior of the temple is composed of
three principal apartments; the first and largest
supported by six pilasters, three on each side,
(surmounted with the head of Isis in the front,)

90 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
is thirty-six feet by thirty-four; the space in the
centre between the pilasters is fourteen feet six
inches, and they are seven feet eight inches from
the wall: the distance between the pilasters five
feet nine inches ; their dimensions three feet seven
inches, by three feet three inches. The breadth
of the second chamber eight feet five inches ; its
length is the same as the first, and also taken at
right angles with the door: the sanctuary is
seven feet ten inches, by eight feet nine inches:
on each side of the second chamber is a small
side apartment six feet square.
I shall now describe the decorations of the
interior, and rather minutely, as there is more
uniformity, and evident allusion to the deity to
whom the temple is dedicated (Isis), than is
generally met with. The interior of the porch
is ornamented on each side by an offering to Isis
from a human figure. Within the chamber, on
each side of the entry, is a large figure, with an
axe in one hand, while with the other he grasps a
bow> and a kneeling victim held by the hair of
the head. On either side are two human figures;
that in front has a knife upheld, and appears to
command the sacrifice; while that behind seems
to preside over it with the lotus flower in her
hand: the opposite side is the same, excepting
that the figure commanding the sacrifice is Osiris.

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 9 1
On the left, as you enter, the wall is embellished,
first, with an offering to Isis; secondly, the initia
tion, by Jupiter Ammon and Osiris, of a young
priest ;'thirdly, 'an offering by a female figure, of a
small sistrum, surmounted by the head of Isis and
the serpent, together with the lotus flower, to a
male: figure ; fourthly, an offering of a small sit
ting figure with the crux ansata on its knees (which
are cocked up) to a male figure: On the right
hand the wall is "ornamented, first, with an
offering of provisions to Osiris, with the scourge
in his hand; secondly, an offering of the lotus
flower and three water • pots, pouring water on
other flowers, to Jupiter Ammon; ' thirdly, an
offering to Isis of two small heads of that deity
surmounting two short handles or staffs ; fourthly,
an offering to Osiris of two small water vases. ' At
the end on one side of the door is an offering to
Isis of the lotus; ahd opposite is the same
offering to a female figure. The inner chamber
has offerings to Isis and Osiris, and the initiation
of a priestess by two isides; the sanctuary has
a small figure, in alto-relievo, in a recess at the
end. Monday, August 4. Early this morning we
started on our return, and soon saw on the
eastern bank Mahomed and Ali Cashief, together
with the band of thieves that had" attempted to

92 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
plunder us : they hailed to ask if we had opened
the temple, and how much money we had found
m it. In the evening we called on Daoud
Cashief, who protested his innocence of the
transactions at Ebsambal, even before we had
mentioned the subject; this was certainly not
very wise in Daoud, as nothing could tend more
to prove his guilt; and if further evidence were
necessary, we saw amongst his train several of
the principal spies and bullies that bad annoyed
us. It was, however, necessary to dissemble., and
appear to credit him, > as a contrary line of con
duct could lead to no good; and after receiving
a present of a sheep, goat, and some bread
together with his promise to keep the temple
open for Mr. Salt, we took our leave ; when near
Derry we met Halleel crossing the water to be
present at our interview with his brother, and
thus get his share of any thing else that could be
squeezed out of us : he was, however, too late. In
the evening we arrived at Derry, and went to see
the temple with candles. This temple is situated
about a quarter of a mile from the town: it is cut
in the solid rock, but is so much ruined that
nothing perfect is to be seen. There has been a
middling sized hall, with eight square pilasters
and four terms, with standing figures in alto-
relievo; the latter seem to form a sort of portico

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 93
to the principal chamber. The eight outer
pilasters have fallen, but those of the portico
are perfect with the exception of . the terms,
which have all been broken off. Within is the
principal chamber, seventeen paces by sixteen,
supported on each side of the centre by three
pilasters: this latter leads to the sanctuary, on
e ach side of which is a small chamber surrounded
with benches. At the further end of the sanctuary
are the marks of four sitting statues which have
been chiselled off: they appear to have resembled
those of the large temple of Ebsambal. In this
temple the stucco and paint is imperfect, and the
whole has a black and dismal appearance ; but to
judge from the size and execution of the figures*
&c. in entaglio, on the walls, it may once have
been tolerably handsome. The dedication ap
pears to have been to Osiris. There are boats,
battles, sacrifices, &c. like those at Ebsambal.
We had just gone to bed this evening, when
Halleel arrived ; we sent word that we were
asleep. He sent us a present of some aqua vitas,
and a miserable sheep; all these presents are
paid for at the rate of double their value.
Tuesday, August 5. Early this morning Hal
ted came on board, when we gave him to under
stand what we had told his brother, viz. that we
had nothing left to dispose of, having given away

94 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
every thing that we had to spare. All this while
he was whispering to one of our sailors, asking,
no doubt, if we had any thing left, and whether
it was true, that we had not given his brother
' any thing. He now examined attentively every
thing in the cabin, but observing nothing was
forthcoming, he took his leave, and we started also,
glad to get rid of him and Derry too. It was here
that poor Norden, eighty years ago, met with the
treatment from Baram Cashief, which prevented
his going farther up. This morning we visited
the temple at Armada, and saw two gazelles
near it. This temple is built in the desert (at
least it is desert now), not far from the river, on
the opposite side from Derry, and about one
quarter of the way between the latter place and
Koroscoff. It consists of a hall, supported by
twelve pilasters and four pillars, in four rows of
four each; but as a wall of intercolumniation
surrounds it, the detached pilasters and pillars
within the hall are only six in number. Beyond
the hall is a small cross chamber, nine paces by
three, and within that is the sanctuary, which is
eight paces by three. The interior of the latter
is daubed over with plaster, and modern Greek
paintings of the twelve apostles, saints, &c.
Underneath this plaster, however, the ancient
Egyptian figures and hieroglyphics, &c. in has-

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 95.
relief, appear ; they have been executed in a very
superior style, and the colouring has been rich
beyond description. There is a small chamber on
each side of the sanctuary. The dedication is to
Osiris. The sand has drifted into, and nearly
filled up the hall ; some modern sun-burnt brick
ruins attached to the temple may have been addi
tions by the Greeks.
At noon we arrived at Sabour, and proceeded
to inspect its temple, situated on the western
bank, about one hundred yards from the river
side ; it is built of calcarious stone, in a plain at
the foot of the mountain, at present covered "with
sand. The approach to it is by an avenue of
sphinxes (lion's body and woman's head), having
two statues in a standing position at the end
nearest the Nile, all of calcarious stone. At the
further end of the avenue is a pylone, with two
fragments of ill-carved : statues, at present thrown
down ; they are all full length figures, and much
dilapidated. On each side of the entrance within
is a peristyle space, with four terms on either side ;
these appear to form the hall of the temple,
which being covered with sand cannot be en
tered. The masonry is here much ruined, and
there is not one perfect figure to be found. We
observed that the hieroglyphics on the back of
the two statues nearest the temple were the same

96 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
as those on the frieze of the large temple at
Ebsambal, with the difference only of being
written vertically instead of horizontally. These
hieroglyphics occur on either side of the crux
ansata, which occupies the centre of the frieze,
on one side written from right to left, and on the
other from left to right. The hieroglyphics on
Cleopatra's needles at Alexandria, are exactly
the same about one-fourth down ; and we noticed
the same characters on the two great obelisks at
Luxor. Towards the close of the evening we had
another quarrel with Hassan, who drew his
dagger on Mr. Belzoni, uttering savage impre
cations, and saying, that all who disbelieved in
the prophet were dogs. We made a great effort
to get him out of the boat, but the reis and crew
adhered together so much, that we" could not
succeed. In this country it is difficult to chastise
an insult; for should a traveller so far forget
himself as to use a weapon against a Nubian, he
would be sure to be sacrificed, as the whole
country would rise against him, and escape would
be impossible*. A pistol went off twice by acci
dent in the boat during these unpleasant disputes^
but fortunately did no harm ; and Captain Irby
* This part of the country has, however, been since garrisoned
and taken possession of by Mahommed AIL

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 97
had his hand much cut in wresting a dagger, from
Hassan, who; while foaming with rage, was in
the act of stabbing Mr. Belzoni. It is not a
year ago since a Russian was murdered a little
above Derry; he was in company with another
who escaped to Assuan ; they were unfortunately
unarmed. Our reis and one of the sailors quitted
the boat in consequence of our last quarrel.
Wednesday, August 6. Started at dawn on our
voyage; about seven the reis returned; he now
wanted to land the statues and leave them behind ;
this we told him he should not do, and advised
him to beware what tricks he played us, as we
Would bring him to an account at Assuan, where,
at least, there is some sort of government. Our
young mameluke joined us this morning, having
been robbed of his money and the reed-raft
which' he had purchased. About noon we in
spected the small temple at Offidena; which has
been left in so unfinished a state, that it is difficult
to make much out of it. All that is at present
to be seen is a small peristyle hall, with fourteen
pillars ; but neither the columns, their capitals,
or the sides of the hall are finished. The Greek
christians had made a chapel of this temple.
There are, on the walls of a fragment of some
detached building, three figures* evidently not
Egyptian ; they are in intaglio, and are either
H

98 TRAVELS IN [LETTER r.
of ancient Greek or Roman workmanship ; they
appear to be an Egyptian, and a Grecian priest
and priestess. In the same tablet is a figure
representing Isis, and Horus presenting her an
offering. The people came and crowded round
Us here, asking for backsheeish ; as they did it
in a very impertinent manner, we did not give
them any till we had explained to them that a
more quiet mode of begging would have got
them more money. We endeavoured here to pur
chase a statue, the same that we had attempted
to buy on going up; but after being detained
about two hours, we were obliged to give it up.
In the evening we visited the temple at Dekki ;
the exterior and part of the interior of this
-temple have not been finished, but the basso-
relievo m the interior, bears every mark of having
been executed by a skilful artist; only one
chamber, however, has been completed with
stucco and painting. The whole building is on
a small scale, but^the plan is very neat; it is
approached by a pylon, beyond which is a por
tico of two columns in front; within this are
three small but distinct chambers ; the centre
one is narrow, with a smaller apartment on each
side ; one of which has steps whereby to ascend
to the top of the temple. The whole building
is of a narrower width than the pylon, and a wall

.LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 99
from the exterior of the latter surrounded it.
The entrance of the pylon is covered with Greek
inscriptions ; amongst which, several commemorate
the homage paid to the god Mercury, by Greek
and Roman visitors, the latter under the reign of
Tiberius Caesar. This temple, like some others
in Nubia, has been subsequently used as a Greek
chapel, as appears by their daubed paintings;
other ruins, perhaps of a smaller town, are scat
tered about near the temple.
Thursday, August 7- Started at dawn, and
soon visited the temple of Garbe Girshe; the
natives here have a very bad character. Last
year they murdered a soldier of the pashaws,
.and not having been punished for it, are now
remarkably insolent. Seeing us all armed,
and not being numerous themselves, they asked
for the backsheeish in a quiet manner, and we
gave them some. This temple is principally an
excavation in the rock, but has been fronted by
a built portico or peristyle hall; four terms on
each side, and two pillars in front, in a muti
lated state, remain to it; but there have been
many more of the latter ; and probably a flight
of steps preceded by an avenue of sphinxes (a
lion's body with a woman's head), as appears by
fragments remaining, was an approach to it.
The excavated chambers have a black and dismal

100 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
appearance, and the interior ones have become
the habitation of bats. The plan is not dissimilar
to that of the great temple at Ebsambal, but
much smaller, and the sculpture is unusually bad
and heavy. The first chamber is nineteen paces
by eighteen, and supported by six terms, three
on each side of the centre, with alto-relievo figures
of Osiris in an erect posture ; but. instead of the
arms being across the breast, with the scourge in
one hand and hook in the Other, as at Ebsambal,
both the insignia are here' in the right hand, which
is uplifted, while the left hand hangs down;
these latter are executed in a most heavy and
unsightly manner. On either side of this chamber
are foiir niches, in each of which are four alto-
relievo figures ; the second chamber is smaller,
supported by two pilasters, one on each side
of the centre ; beyond this is the sanctuary which
is small ; the altar remains in it, and four sitting
statues at the further end ; there is a small
chamber on each side of the sanctuary, and side
apartments leading from the second chamber.
Towards sun-set we inspected the temple of
Garbe Dendour : this is a small edifice which has
never, been finished. It is built with a small
portico of two columus in front, and two small
chambers within it. The sanctuary at the back
is an excavation in the rock, before which the

KAL Aif SHE1, LOOX.IJTG TJ]P THE 3TU.0E .
Tr iivtc A W , CHullma-iiael .

\

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 101
temple is built: it is very small .and unfinished.
Before the building is a portal and a square space
walled in, probably intended as a quay to protect
the edifice from the river near which it stands
— Garbe Merie. We passed this place without
stopping, there being nothing but a broken wall,
with hieroglyphics, which has been part of a
temple. In the evening we landed at Kalapsche and
went up to see the temple. Here we found
all the natives assembled, and armed with their
daggers to dispute the entrance; we asked the
reason of their being assembled in such numbers,
and what they wanted: they said they must be paid
before we entered the temple: we asked the
speaker if he meant that he was to be paid him
self, or who it was that we were to give money
to? they all cried out, that we must pay every
one of them. Now as there were about sixty of
them, and many others arriving, we thought this
a !bad speculation, and were, therefore, proceeding
to explain to them that it was not any great
object for us to see the temple a second time,
since we had already inspected it; and that if they
chose to let us enter, we would give them a
reasonable present when we came out, otherwise
that it was immaterial to us whether we saw it
or not* and that we would go without seeing it.

102 TRAVELS IN [LETTER L.
While we were settling this, our janissary picked
a quarrel with the natives, by abusing them all,
calling them thieves, and saying, we would enter
the temple by force: in consequence they all
rushed on him with their drawn daggers, and
had nearly wrenched his musket from him, when
we thought it high time to fly to his rescue, and
after much struggling we succeeded in restoring
him his arms. We were now glad to get to the
boat, being well hooted as we went down; and
on shoving off, they pelted us with stones; we
fired a musket over their heads, to shew them
that we had ammunition though we did not choose
to use it unless there was real occasion. Our
Greek servant now told us that while we were
up, one villain had entered the boat with a drawn
sword, and was proceeding to plunder, when per
ceiving it was time to be serious, a loaded gun
was "pointed at his head, with a threat to lay him
dead on the spot unless he desisted; this timely
firmness caused him to quit the bark: — the
crew all the while not interfering or saying a
word. We commended the Greek for his pre
sence of mind, but had not so much reason to be
satisfied with the janissary, whose unseasonable
rashness alone prevented our seeing the temple;
this was more provoking, as further up the river
such a fit of valour might occasionally have been,
of use.

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 103
It is a great inconvenience to a traveller in
this country, that both servants and interpreters
always think themselves wiser than their masters;
and therefore when desired to say or do any thing*
always act according to the dictates of their own
judgment, never letting their employer's wishes
have the least influence with them. When inter
preting they never tell you half what is said, and
frequently when you explain something which
you are anxious should be interpreted,, they an
swer yes> yes,. I know it.; never thinking of telling
the other party, but taking it for granted you
are speaking for their information, not for the pur
pose of their explaining your words to others.
This evening we repassed 'the gates of Nubia.
As the Nile was now high, and the river here
much contracted by the approach of the moun
tains onboth sides, the rocks jutting down perpen
dicularly into the water, our crew made a great*
merit of taking the boat through the rapids, with
the hope of obtaining backsheeish; but, though
noticing all that was going forward, we took
care, by an assumed carelessness, to make them
think that we were regardless of the whole pro
ceeding, and thus we escaped an additional tax.
This evening the current drove us past the two
small temples of Teffa. Mr. Belzoni, who has
seen them, describes them as follows: — only one

104 travels in [letter i.
of these edifices is finished; it is dedicated to Isis,
and*is about twenty feet square; at present it is
all dirty, being used as a cow-house (not a bad
application for a teinple of Isis, to whom the cow
was peculiary sacred). The other, which is si
tuated near the former(both being on the western
bank of the river and near the water's edge), has
never been completed; its dimensions are similar
to those of that first described.
Just before dark we Went to visit Hindaw; the
ruins in this quarter are very extensive, but
nothing dan be distinctly made out as to the
meaning of the buildings, which, whatever they
may have been intended for, have never been
finished. Beginning from the southward, the
'first object is a great square, situated on a bed
of rock surrounded by an unfinished wall, built of
immense blocks of calcarious stone. On the north
""side, in the middle, there is -a portal similar to
those by which the Egyptian temples are gene-
Tally approached; the top of the door-way is or
namented with the winged globe, and a figure
of Isis, in basso-relievo appears half finished on
the side of it. It is not improbable that this
wall (which 'encloses a space aboht half a mile
each way) may have been intended _ to surround
several temples; the space it occupies being too
great t6 suppose that only one was intended to

letter i.J egypt and nubia. lt>5
be constructed there. Further north is an ex
tensive quarry, from which we may conclude
the stone was drawn for the building of these
edifices. Within this quarry we perceived a
door-way carved in the Egyptian style ; and on
each side is a convexity, as if it had been intended
to carve out pillars. There is also a niche, with
a bust of Roman execution, on each side, and
forty-two very perfect Greek inscriptions, written
in the time of the Romans, to commemorate the
visits of various generals, and other persons of
distinction who had come here to pay their vows.
Mr. Bankes copied all these : to the northward of
the quarry, on an eminence, is a small unfinished
portico, of two pillars on each side, and two jga.
front; the capitals are highly executed: the former
combine the lotus flower with the vine, date, and
doura grain; the latter have a quadruple -head
of Isis.
Friday, August 8. At noon we inspected the
temple at Daboude ; it is situated about two
hundred yards from the river side, and is alto
gether unfinished. The approach is by three
portals, after which comes the temple, consisting
of a portico, composed of four columns in front,
and a wall of intercolumniation reaching half
way up the pillars. Within this there are two
•chambers and a sanctuary; the latter contains

106 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
two handsome monolithe cages of red granite^,
between six and seven feet high, and about four
broad ; these are the only objects of interest
which the temple contains. Towards the river
side, on the banks, are the remains of a quay.
This day the murderer quitted the bark, not
daring to shew himself near Philae ; he did not
appear ashamed of the crime which he had com
mitted. In the evening our crew stopped at their
village, and brought a scabby half-starved lamb
as a present to us ; we could not forbear from
laughing, as it was really the most pitiful animal
we had seen in the country ; and in truth it must
have put them to no small trouble to find such a
beast. We refused the present most stoutly, but
it was all in vain ; they forced it into the boat.
At three, arrived at Phila?, called by Hamilton
and Burkhardt, Giesiret El Berbe El Ghassir, or
Giesiret Anas el Wodjoud, the first of these
names means the Island of ruined Temples : not
an inapt denomination. Philae is the eastern
most of a group of islands and rocks which
compose the first cataract. It is about half a
mile long, rather high, and being wholly covered
with magnificent ruins, has a grand and imposing
appearance ; the lofty pylons are seen at a great
distance, and produce a fine effect. The island

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 107
divides the Nile into two streams, and the river,
finding so great an impediment in its course,
rushes by with considerable velocity. The prin
cipal edifices are approached by an avenue formed
on each side by a gallery supported by columns,
the capitals of all which are different with respeet
to each other. There are thirty of these pillars
on the left, and on the right only sixteen, with
cells (probably the habitation of the priests)
within them; the greater part of these last-
mentioned columns are finished, but there are
some incomplete. These shew that the columns
were first constructed and erected in the rough,
and that the sculpture was finished after the
erection of the column.. The rough outlines
which we found traced* were very curious; and,
neatly as all the capitals are sculptured,, the
finishing artist had but a rough and coarse pat
tern to point out to; him the style of architecture
he was to pursue. The difference of the two
galleries*, in number of columns, is occasioned by
a small temple having been situated at each end of
that on the right ; these temples are now entirely
ruined. At the end of the avenue is a large
pylon, formed by two moles ; the entrance in
the centre has had two lions, and two small
obelisks of red granite, ornamented with., hiero
glyphics, before it. It is on the pedestal of one of

108 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
these latter that Mr. Bankes discovered the Greek
inscription; and it is on the door-way of this
pylon, that the inscription announcing that this
island was the termination of the French con
quests in Egypt, and consequently of their travels
on the Nile, is written ; a copy of it, verbatim, may
possibly be amusing.
"Republique Francoise, An. 6, Le 13 Mes-
" sidor, Une Armee Francoise commande par
" Bonaparte est decendu a Alexandrie, L'Armee
" ay ant mis vingt jours apres les Mamlouks en
" fuit aux Pyramids, Dessaix commandant la
" premiere Division, les a poursuivis au dela
"jusque au Cataracts, ou il est Arrive le 13
" Ventose, 3 Mars. Les Generaux de Brigade."
" Here follow the names.
" An. 7 de la Republique, de Jes. Or. 1799-"
It was in the portico, as you approach this
temple, that we noticed the elephant as an
hieroglyphic; this is the only instance of our
finding this symbol in the country. The above-
mentioned portico leads through the left end of
the great pylon, after which there is a handsome
court or hall, and then you enter the temple.
We here first noticed a singular imperfection
or peculiarity in the sculpture of the large figure
of Isis in the great pylon — she has two left hands ;
we have since observed the same singularity in

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 109
other places; the French work has copied some
of them. In all parts of the island, on the sides
of the temples, are Greek inscriptions, comme
morating the worship of Greek and Roman
generals who have come to pay their vows to Isis
and Serapis. Philae is said to have been the spot
where Isis was appeased of her wrath for the
violence offered by Typhon to her husband ; and
hence we find so many temples dedicated to her
in so small a compass, there being no less than
four. Before I quit Nubia, a few observations on the
country and its "inhabitants may not be unac
ceptable. At present only twa English travellers
have been in this country. Mr. Hamilton,
Colonel Leake, and Captain Hayes visited
Debode, but were preyented from advancing
further by the united efforts of the cashiefs and
the mameluke bey, Elfi. Mr. Hamilton's book con
tains the result of these gentlemens' mission into
Upper Egypt. The French had penetrated only
as far as Philae, where they left the inscription be
fore mentioned. Several years elapsed be|pre any
European travellers entered Nubia, whenTJurk-
hardt led the way, which was followed by Mr.
Legh and Mr. Bankes : — the former has published.
Immediately after passing the first cataract, the
traveller observes the Mockatem and Lybian chain

1 10 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
of mountains 'to close much on the Nile : this re
mark is applicable, with few exceptions, throughout
Nubia, at least as far as we went ; there is conse
quently only a narrow strip of cultivated land on
either bank of the river. The ancients, to preserve
the soil and prevent the rapid course of the river
from washing away the land, constructed im
mense walls, or, more properly speaking, piers,
built of huge masses of stone piled one on the
other, and reaching into the river from the foot of
the mountain, or rather the limit of the Nile's
rising, to the point of the water's lowest ebb.
These piers are invariably built at right angles
with the stream, and are generally about fifteen
feet wide. As they are very numerous, and as
the labour and expense of their construction must
have been prodigious, some idea may thence be
formed pf the importance that was attached to
them. From the number of temples, and from
the fine plains of loamy soil, now generally
covered with a surface of sand, a foot thick,
which makes them look like the rest of the desert,
there is every reason to suppose that this country
was once both populous and flourishing ; at the
time of the height of Egyptian power it was
considered as an integral part of the state ; this
is evident from the figures and devices in the
temples having every resemblance to those, of

3.ETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 1 1 1
Egypt. Of the land of Nubia which might be
cultivated, I do not suppose one fourth is made
use of; this indifference in agricultural pursuits
proceeds from the despotic system of the govern
ment, where the governing authorities think of
nothing but making the most of their situations
whilst they hold them ; consequently their sole
aim is to get money, no matter how it is pro*
cured. A licentious soldiery are ever ready to
contribute to the oppression of the inhabitants,
more especially when the fund from whence they
derive their own pay and emoluments are drawn
from this source ; this observation applies to
Egypt as well as to Nubia, only that it is more
easily perceived in the latter country. The con
sequence is, that the date palm, the fruit of which
ripens without any human aid, and which pays no
duty, is here more encouraged than any other
production; and dates may safely be called the
staple of the country. The doura, which is the
holcus arundinaceus of Linnaeus, is the only grain
to be met with ; it makes very good bread,
but they grow barely sufficient for their own
subsistence ; indeed, it is so prized, that they
frequently preferred it to money in payment for
the articles we purchased. The miri or land-tax
is paid at the rate of ten dollars per sackey,
consequently every sackey which the Nubians

1 1 2 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
build becomes an additional inducement to the
Turks to come into their country; and it is only
the scantiness of the produce which keeps the
pashaw from quartering his troops on them ; this
the crafty natives are well aware of, and take
care to put no temptation in the way. The
present mode of collecting the miri in Nubia, is
by sending thither annually about two hundred
Turkish soldiers in boats, and the money they
get hardly defrays the expenses of the expedition.
The duty is not paid in cash, but in doura,
which they purchase back from the Turks ; but
they generally contrive that the soldiers do not
return very full-handed. The1 Turks usually
make Derry their head-quarters, and remain
about six weeks in the country, during which
time the cashiefs retire into the mountains, and
the natives Conceal their arms, which are always
taken from them whenever they are found. I
shall here observe, that in several parts of Nubia
we noticed the sites of ancient towns, indicated,
as in Egypt, by mounds of rubbish.
I shall now add a few remarks on the natives,
as we resided longer in the country, and had more
dealings with them than any other Europeans have
ever had. The Nubians are a very distinct race
of people from the Arabs ; their dress is com
monly a loose white shirt and a turban ; some-

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 113
times they are uncovered, except a cloth round
the waist. They are very superstitious, most of
them wearing charms to keep off " the evil eye,"
or some other apprehended ills. These charms
consist of some words written on a scrap of paper,
and sowed up in leather ; they are worn mostly
on the right arm over the elbow, and sometimes
round the neck. All the cashiefs we saw had
them, and one Nubian dandy had nine of
these appendages. These people think them
selves very cunning in schemes to deceive stran
gers. Few of them smoke ; instead of which they
use salt and tobacco mixed, enveloped in wool,
and kept between the under lip and gum ; the
boys commence this practice when quite young.
They are all rogues, but being bred up in such
principles, do not think there is any harm in
being so; the opprobrious terms, harame, cadab,
(thief — liar) are not considered abusive with theni,
as they have no notion of honesty, and cannot pos
sibly keep from pilfering any thing within their
reach; we detected our sailors at this work almost-
daily, but they always made a joke of it. The
several districts differ much in regard to dress, and
particularly in the manner of wearing the hair,
some have it curled, " a la Brutus," others plaited
and hanging down with great uniformity, in ring
lets, to the shoulders, where it is cut off square at

1 14 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
the bottom, and looks exactly like a mop. The
latter grease their locks plentifully with oil ; the
former have generally a skewer sticking in their
hair in readiness to disturb any animalcule which
may bite too hard. There is great difference in the
features and make of the several Nubian tribes :
the natives of Elpha are tall and good looking ;
the people of Derry are hideous and deformed ;
the tribe at Armada are small, but handsome,
and well made ; they are frugal in their mode of
living, subsisting principally on doura, made into
flat cakes, and baked on a stone, which is heated,
and some sour milk and dates. It is usual to see a
courier, or man, going on a few day's journey
with no other provision than a small bag of dates ;
they eat the offal of all the beasts they kill, not
rejecting any part : and when we were at the
village to which the crew belonged, the women
came down eagerly to dispute for some fowls,
which having died, were thrown on shore. They
are great boasters, but do not appear to have any
firmness ; and they have a great aversion to fire
arms. They evince much outward show of
religion, praying four or five times a day ; and to
shew their piety, they leave the sand on their fore
heads, which sticks there while they are perform
ing their devotions. They are respectful to their
'•ashiefs, to whom are referred all their quarrels

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. , 115
and disputes. They are invariably armed, and
appear very proud of their weapons ; they mostly
carry a dagger on the left arm, a long pike and a
sword slung across the back. The boys, when young,
have weapons provided them; this they imagine
shews their independence, and they acknowledge
no government. They are exceedingly passionate
with each other, but are soon reconciled, even
after the most inveterate abuse; they adhere to
gether, and no bribes can separate them;' we
never saw an instance in which we had any of
them on our side, or when any thing was revealed
to us. Ear-rings are common amongst the men ;
they usually have but one, and it is immaterial in
which ear it is worn. They eat the loeusts grilled*
and affirm that they are good. They are consi
derably darker than the Arabs. The only manu
facture they have has been pointed out to them
by necessity, and consists of neat close-grained
platters, made of the date-tree, to contain their
milk and food. No earthenware is made in the
country ; their water-jars are brought from
Egypt. The women do not cover their faces so scrupu
lously as the Arabs; they are not ill-looking, are
generally well made, and have good figures. They
wear a brown garment reaching down to the an-
kles; it is thrown over the right shoulder, comes

1 ] 6 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
close under the left arm, the shoulder of which is
bare, and has not an ungraceful appearance ; they
are very partial to rings and bracelets ; the former
are frequently worn at the nose, the latter are made
of one piece of brown glass,which not yielding, and
being forced on as small as possible, often causes
much pain ; they always go bare-footed. Young
girls have a covering round their loins made of
strips ofleather, hanging down and ornamented
with cowry-shells and beads. The hair of the
women is plaited somewhat like the men's, and
greased with oil. The Barabras, from their frugal
mode of life, are subject to few diseases ; they are
all marked with one, and sometimes two scars on
the spine of the back, where they have been burnt
for the cure of an endemial disease, which attacks
them when yOung; this mode of treatment, by
drawing all the humours to one spot, keeps the
discharge open till the patient is recovering, and
experience has doubless shewn it to be often suc
cessful. A boy, while we were at Ebsambal, was
in a state of cure, and accidentally injured the
part which caused it to bleed ; the father imme
diately applied a remedy, by throwing some sand,
of which article there is no scarcity in the country,
on the wound ; this soon appeased the boy's cries
and pain.
Tuesday, August 12. After about four hour's

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 1 1 7
disputing and bargaining with .the crew, we per
suaded them to take us down the cataract in the
boat, on the condition of our paying fifty piastres,
but they would not start unless we paid them
every para of the money before hand. We tried
to induce them to take half of the cash at first,
and the other half on our arrival ; but no, they
must have it all. It would have been the same
to us whether we paid them before or after, but
knowing their character, we were afraid that
when they once got the money, they would turn
our things out of the boat, and take themselves
off, especially as there was a great crowd assembled
who would have aided them in any of their
pranks. We could not help laughing when we
found that however unfavourable an opinion we
had formed of them, they were equally suspicious
of us. Having at length supplied them with that
sovereign balm, " the fleece," they prepared to
depart. A pilot and eight additional hands came
on board to conduct us down; just before putting
off, Hassan sneaked off and disappeared, dread
ing the report we should make of him to the Aga.
We were about two hours on our passage, which
was amongst all the windings and turnings of the
innumerable islands which form the rapids, for
cataract there was none. The scenery was wild,
barren, and romantic. Sometimes the bark was

] 1 8 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
carried away pretty sharply by the stream, and
occasionally, when she was roughly handled in the
vortex of the current, our sailors cried out, tyep,
tyep, (good, good;) and asked us whether they
were not bold fellows for undertaking what they"
had done ; at times they made such a violent noise,
all speaking and bawling at once, that a person
not used to Nubian manners would have thought
they were all going to the bottom. The boat
only struck once, but it gave her a prodigious
shock, and made us fully sensible of the hardness
of granite rocks ; the sailors immediately began
to sound the well, expecting she was bilged, but
she did not make much water, and we soon
got off. At the commencement, while near
Philae, we observed oyster-shells incrusted in the
granite rocks, bordering on the river; some of
them were very perfect and large. We reached
Assuan (the ancient Syene) in the evening ; Mr.
Ruppell, a German traveller who was at Thebes
with us, discovered on one of the uninhabited
barren islands, which compose the fall, a fine
tablet of red granite, with a perfect Greek in
scription' on it, highly interesting. As we have
been on terms of intimacy with him, he has given
us a copy, which I enclose to you. The stone
Mr. R. takes with him to Frankfort, to be pre
sented to the museum of that town.

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 1 19
On our arrival at Assuan, we proceeded to
visit the ancient granite quarries in the neigh
bourhood : our principal object was, to examine
the column which is there, and which has an in
scription in Latin, not devoid of interest. Our
guide lost his way at first, and took us to another
part of the quarry where we found an immense
granite basin, seventeen feet long, by seven wide,,
and three deep. It is hewn out in the rough,
and is narrower at the bottom than the top ; we
were at a loss to imagine for what purpose such
an immense basin could be intended, unless it
was for a bath. The whole of this quarry was
highly interesting ; here we had an opportunity
of noticing the manner in which the ancients
used to cut the prodigious masses which one
meets with throughout Egypt. It appears, that
when they wanted to detach a mass, they cut
niches in a right line throughout the piece they
intended removing : these niches were about two
feet apart, five or six inches long, and about three
deep, by two and a half broad. As soon as they
were finished, the block was separated by some
violent blow or concussion. We met in all di
rections specimens of the progress of their work ;
some masses were but half detached, others wholly
separated; here we saw an obelisk in the rough,
and there a column, the whole was an interesting

120 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
scene. The ancient road, regularly paved with
granite, is still plainly to be seen, though the sand
covers a great part ; in the vacancies between the
hills are causeways, some of considerable length,
to connect the elevated parts one with the other,
and thus keep a communication open with the
several quarries, all these roads leading to two
principal ones which conduct to Assuan. We
now searched for the column with the inscription,
and at last found it. The pillar is small, not
being more than ten feet in length, by about three
feet diameter ; the inscription is tolerably perfect;
an Arab, acquainted with Mr. Belzoni, told him of
it, and it was seen for the first time by a traveller
last year. As Mr. B. had copied the writing, we
did not think it worth while to copy it. Its pur
port is as follows : — " To Jupiter Ammon, Kneephis
" Bona (the Good Spirit), and to Juno the Queen,
" under whose protection is this mountain, in
" which were discovered nine quarries near Philae,
" during the happy age of the Roman Empire,
" under the most pious Emperors Severus and
" Caracala, and —  and Julia Domna his
" august mother; and avast number of statues,
" and large columns, were taken out of these
" quarries by Aquila, prefect of Egypt. " Cura
" Magens Opera," which Mr. Salt interprets, un-
" der his directions, Aurelius Helogabalus or-

LETTER I. J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 1 2 1
" dered this stone to be erected in the calends
" of March." The vacant space before Julia
Domna the mother, is where the name of " Geta,"
the other brother, was erased ; Caracala having
murdered him, ordered his name to be blotted
out of every inscription where it was inserted.
Mr. Salt tells us, that there is one instance of this
at Rome, and he has met another on an inscription,
discovered at the late excavation of the sphinx. I
should like to have sent the original Latin to you,
but as it was not to be got, I must be content
with what I have. You will observe the inscription
says, that the Romans discovered the nine quar
ries, not that they made them. One must
therefore infer that they were first worked by
the Egyptians; and as they were so numerous,
and of such magnitude, they must have been of
great consequence, and doubtless are of the most
remote antiquity. I confess I was much per
plexed to think how the Egyptians could have
cut, hollowed out, and polished, such immense
blocks of the hardest stone without the use of
iron, a metal which they are said to have been
wholly ignorant of; the niches, therefore, which
I mentioned above, if not with iron, must have
been cut with brass. We examined the construc
tion of numerous mummy cases, and boxes con
taining the sacred emblems of the Egyptians;

1 22 • TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
they were invariably fastened with wooden pegs,
no nail of any description being visible. Some
of the cases were of beautiful workmanship.
Mr. Ruppell has" two legs of a chair elegantly
worked in the similitude of a lion's feet and
paws ; these specimens of cabinet-making bespeak
great taste and judgment, and it is difficult to
conceive that they were made with brass. The
negroes in the South Sea, at this day, certainly
cut hard woods shaped as clubs, and ornament
them in the most exquisite style; but I doubt
much if they could make cases and boxes with
their flints also.
I cannot quit Syene without noticing that it is
the place where Juvenal was banished by the
Emperor Domitian; being sent there with the
title of " Governour of the Frontier of Egypt:"
he returned at eighty years of age. Assuan has
nothing to interest the traveller ; • an immense
heap of rubbish lies behind the town, which is
a dirty, ill-built place.
Wednesday, August 13. This morning the*
Aga came to pay us a visit: he was asleep all
yesterday, for as the ramadan prevents them
from eating and drinking during the day, the
great people invert the order of things by sleep
ing during that time, and sitting up and feasting
all night. We complained to him of the treat

R

il<5

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA.' 123 '
ment we had experienced from our crew ; he told
us that they were a notorious set of rascals; that
no one would employ their boat, their character
being so bad, that people were afraid to trust
their goods in their hands. Our friends had not
waited to be catechised for their conduct, but
took themselves off the day before, after having
made great efforts to persuade us to give them
some more backsheeish. We visited Elephantina
so glowingly described byDenon. It certainly had
a pleasing, flourishing appearance, the north end
being richly covered with fine crops of doura:
there are a few palm-trees. The south end of
the island is high, and here are situated the
ruins of the ancient town, together with the
temples, only one of which, dedicated to the
serpent Kneephis, is in any degree perfect; it is
small, with an anti-chamber and sanctuary. There
are the remains of several others, so mutilated,
that nothing can be made out. A high quay
leads directly down into the Nile at the S. E. end.
At eleven o'clock we started on our return, having
hired a boat to take us to Thebes for one hundred
and twenty piastres.
Thursday, August 14. Inspected Koum Ombo,
the ancient Ombos. Here are the remains of
two temples situated on a promontory of the
Nile's eastern shore; the large one, dedicated to,

124 ' TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
the crocodile (as appears by the principal offer
ings being presented to a deity having the head
of that animal) is situated at a short distance
from the river, which it fronts. The smaller one,
to Isis, is close to the river side, and not far
distant from the other, to the S. W. of which
there is a building which appears to be part of an
unfinished pylon, and which is close to the river
side. There is a whimsical irregularity in this
latter edifice which should not be passed unno
ticed; the base is built of small blocks of stone,
which gradually increase in size till you come
to the top, where are the largest masses of
all. The large temple consists of a portico of
five columns in front, in three rows, though
one at each of the outer angles is fallen. The
cornice, only two parts of which are perfect, is
ornamented with four winged globes. The frieze
consists of a double border of hieroglyphics,
rather large. The columns are of great dimen
sions, and have various capitals surmounted by a
plinth. There are two entrances, one on each
side of the centre pillars, occasioned by the
unusual circumstance of an odd number of
columns in front; these conduct to another
ruined apartment, originally supported by ten
pillars in two rows of five each; beyond these
are three other apartments; the communication

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 125
from the one to the other is by two large doors,
one on either side, instead of a centre one
which most Egyptian temples have. The cornice
of the entrance, on the left, from the second to
the third apartment, has an inscription in Greek,
which mentions that it was written by direction of
Ptolemy and Cleopatra, and that the temple was
dedicated to Apollo, &c. The decorations of
this edifice, in basso-relievo, are highly finished,
and in a good style ; amongst the figures here, we
noticed the lion with the hawk's head, similar to
the statues we found at Ebsambal, a union we
had not before noticed. The small temple of
Isis points to the south; it consists of a small por
tico of four columns, surmounted by the usual
quadruple head of the deity, with the passage in
the centre, and beyond the portico are two cham
bers and a sanctuary; but all the western side of
the temple has fallen over into the river, and with
it the chief part of the flooring of the chambers,
together with a large plain altar of black basalt,
which has evidently come from the sanctuary.
The want of hieroglyphical inscriptions on this
altar is probably the only cause why travellers
have not removed it. The ornamental parts of
this temple are in no way inferior to those of the
larger edifice ; we did not, however, notice any re
presentations that we had not before seen. The

126 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
country in the neighbourhood of Koum Ombo
presents to the north and east nothing but the
prospect of a barren, sandy desert; there is a
small portion of land to the S. E. cultivated.
Opposite to the temple, in the middle of the
Nile, is the large island of Mansouria, which is
highly cultivated, and a smaller island to the
south, the soil of which is also good. Exclusive
of the temples, the promontory of Koum Ombo
has several Saracenic ruins of both baked and sun
burnt brick ; and the ruins of the ancient town
are discernible by the rubbish of the former
material. The view, as above described, is, on
account of the elevation of the position, an exten
sive one.
Djibel Selsilis. The meaning of this term
implies " mountains of the chain." The name
has been given from a tradition that a chain was
here drawn across the river, to prevent the ir
ruption by water of any hostile parties from
above. The principal objects of interest, are
several small temples hollowed out of the rock,
which is of calcarious stone. The northernmost
consists of a portico and sanctuary, with three
recesses in the latter, containing statues in alto-
relievo ; the walls have been stuccoed and painted,
but at present all is so much disfigured that
little or nothing can be distinctly made out.

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 127
To the southward are two more small temples,
each consisting of one single niche or hollow
in the rock ; both their fronts have two hand
some columns, together with a cornice and
frieze, executed with considerable taste ; the
colouring having the remains of great richness.
Numerous other niches with statues, &c. are
interspersed near this spot. The quarries here
are very extensive, and one large detached mass
of stone, of considerable height, would seem to
be the spot where the chain which secured the
river was fastened. On the opposite side the
quarries are also numerous ; the vicinity of the
Nile to this place, so favourable for embarking
and transporting the stone, was no doubt the
principal inducement to the Egyptians to esta
blish so extensive a quarry here.
Friday, August 15. Reached Edfoo, the
ancient " Appolinoplis Magna." It is situated in a
fertile plain, at a short distance from the western
bank of the Nile. The antiquities consist of a
large temple, the plan of which appears to be the
most magnificent of any in Egypt ; though in
point of perfection it must yield to Tentyra and
some few others. It consists of a prodigious
high pylon, the exterior wall of which is sculp
tured with a large figure on each side, sacrificing
a number of human victims ; and above these are

128 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
two rows of figures presenting offerings to Osiris
and Isis. The inside of the pylon is decorated with
similar oblations ; the cornice is imperfect as far as
the torus, or astragal moulding, which at present
forms the summit of the pylon. Within is a
large and magnificent peristyle court, forming an
oblong square, with a covered gallery supported
by columns on each side ; beyond this is the
portico of the temple, presenting a front of six
pillars, which continue for three rows, making
eighteen in all ; those in front have had a wall of
intercolumniation reaching up half their height.
We thought these pillars appeared to be of very
large dimensions, but on measuring them found the
upper part of the shaft to be six feet four inches
in diameter, while those at Carnack are eleven
feet six inches at the base of the column. This
portico is filled with rubbish upwards of two-
thirds of the way up to the roof. The frieze
in front of the portico is ornamented with a
row of standing figures of monkeys, in basso-re
lievo, and the architraves within have rows of
figures of Isis sitting on a chair. The chambers of
the temple are inaccessible, the rubbish which fills
the portico blocking up the door. The whole of
the large peristyle court, and the top of the
portico, and, other parts of the temple, are
covered with the mud-built huts of the modern

LETTER I.J EGYPT AXD NUBIA. 1«9
town of Edfoo. The temple is surrounded by a
thick wall, about eight feet in diameter, which
is continued in a line from the outer part of
the gallery of the peristyle, leaving a passage
between the sides of the temple and the wall.
The exterior of the edifice, and both sides of the
wall, are ornamented with offerings and hiero
glyphics ; we remarked nothing novel in the
symbolic representations of this temple, excep
ting the horse, an animal we had not before
seen in this character. The ruins of the ancient
Appolinopolis Magna are high, but not extensive.
The paltry modern town of Edfoo presents a
striking contrast to the magnificence of the
ancient buildings ; from the top of the lofty
pylon, the huts at its foot, and the peristyle court,
are scarcely discernible as human dwellings. You
here enjoy a fine view of an extensive fertile
plain and the river. There is a smaller temple to
the S. W. of the great one, which is nearly buried.
Before I quit Edfoo, I must mention a most
interesting discovery that was made a few weeks
ago ; a Frenchman, named Cailliaud, who under
stands mineralogy, has lately been employed by
the pashaw to examine the Mockatem and Lybian
chain in search of coal mines. His last trip was
to inspect the ancient emerald mines, which are
south of Cossur, at five hours' journey from the
K

130 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
Red Sea ; on his way from the point opposite
to Edfoo, where he quitted the Nile, he crossed a
road at two days' journey from that place, which
appears to be the ancient Egyptian road from
Koptos to Berenice. He also found there the
ruins of a temple ; the road is paved with granite,
and in some places is cut or hollowed out of that
material. Interesting tablets, with hieroglyphic
characters and inscriptions, are met with, but as
he was on his journey, he had no time to examine
this interesting spot. We have seen some of the
specimens from the emerald mine which Mr. C.
has brought with him. Our friend Ruppell, who is
a good mineralogist, and who has made a valuable
collection, tells us that these specimens are com
posed of black mica ; it is of a softish, scaly sub
stance, and may easily be separated into laminae.
The emeralds which we saw were very small, and
ran in narrow strata through the other substance.
This evening, August 15, we stopped at El
Cab, the ancient Eleethias. These ruins are
situated on the eastern bank of the Nile, not far
from the river. The city has been inclosed by a
wall of sun-burnt brick, thirty-seven feet thick ;
the place inclosed may be a mile square. Within
the great wall is another inclosure surrounding
the ruins of a small temple, and other buildings
much dilapidated and consequently uninteresting.

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 1 3 1
At the back of the ruins, in the side of the
Mockatem, are several sepulchral grottos, two of
which are well worthy of notice; the one is
remarkable for a highly finished tablet of hiero
glyphics, in intaglio; the other is a very inte
resting chamber ; and as some of the groups have
the merit of great originality, and at the same
time are executed with good taste, we have given
rather a minute description of the leading parts.
On the left, as you enter, the first object of
interest, is a man writing on a tablet, which he
holds on his left arm ; fronting him are various
men driving asses, cattle, pigs, goats, &c. near
to these are several hillocks of corn, and people
in the act of reaping and sheafing, with glean
ers, &c. following behind them. After this are
three distinct rows of agricultural proceed
ings ; the upper one begins with two men bearing
on their shoulders, by means of a long pole,
as brewers carry a cask, a sort of net basket
shaped thus |§| , filled with wheat in the ear;
next to them are two other men, one bringing
on his shoulder an empty basket, while his
companion carries the pole ; next is a man in an
inclosed space, treading the corn with six head
of cattle, their mode of thrashing. Behind these
are four people winnowing the grain, by holding
it up over their heads, and pouring it down for

1 32 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
the wind to blow through it ; near the last-men
tioned is a man seated on the top of a high hillock
of grain, and writing down an account of the quan
tity ; afterwards are four men piling it. This
group now terminates by two men depositing the
corn in a square inclosure, which was doubtless the
granary. The next group is a ploughing scene ;
there are two ploughs, each drawn by two oxen ;
a man walks opposite the animals, sowing grain as
they advance ; this he takes from a basket sus
pended from the yoke across the horns of the
beasts. Behind him is a person driving a wheel
harrow ; the ploughs are preceded by four men,
using a sort of pick-axe in the shape of the Greek
letter alpha ; this was probably to break the clods
of earth ; further on are four men working another
plough. Below this scene is a pair of scales; at one
end is a man writing an account, while another is
weighing some small articles shaped thus (fj),
and which we think may be the shape of their
loaves, as bread is made sometimes in that form at
this day in Egypt ; four of these are in one scale;
and many others on the shelves at the side of the
wall ; the weight in the other scale, is in the form
of a cow couchant. Next to this are persons car
rying the weighed articles into a boat, by means
of a gang-board, and near to this boat are three
others already laden, with men poling them. The

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 133
cargo is placed in a square magazine, built in the
centre of the boat, not unlike the cabin of the
Thamesis ; below is a boat under sail ; the sail
is square, with a yard at the head and foot ; it is
trimmed by means of a wheel, which is attached
to the foot-yard, acting the part of a roller, and
working on a pivot on the top of the square
magazine or cabin, which is near half the height
of the mast. There is a door and window to the
cabin, and seven men are rowing on each side :
the helms-man steers with an oar. The next
group represents fishermen drawing their net, with
two men carrying the fish away in baskets; and
another splitting them and hanging them up to
dry. Beneath this is another party catching geese
with a net; after which are others employed
plucking and trussing them, while one man is
putting them in jars. Above are men plucking
grapes, while two others are carrying them away
in baskets ; six others are pressing them, and
others filling jars with the wine. Among nume
rous other groups of figures, we noticed a female,
standing, and playing a harp with ten strings ;
the instrument is rudely shaped, and badly
finished. Another plays on a wind-instrument
not unlike a clarionet, with this difference, that
the end is not shaped like a trumpet's mouth, but
plain. As we had met most of the other groups

134 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
in this chamber in other places, and have noticed
them in former letters, we contented ourselves
with this short account. We now visited a small
temple situated in the plain, at a short distance
to the N. W. The serpent Kneephis is said, by
the French, to have been worshipped in this
temple, though we could not observe any allusion
to a serpent more than what is seen in every
other temple ; it consists of a single chamber sur
rounded by a gallery of square pillars.
Saturday, August 16. Reached Esneh, situated
on the scite of the ancient Latopolis. In the centre
of the town, near the market-place, is a magni
ficent Egyptian temple, the whole of which is
however completely buried, and modern houses
built over it, except the portico or anti-chamber ;
this is supported by twenty-four columns, in four
rows of six each ; the outer row in front having a
semi-wall of intercolumniation like that at Tentyra.
The sculpture, in basso-relievo, of this temple is
executed in an indifferent style; the signs of
the zodiac are represented on both ends of the
deling, but they are much inferior to those of
Tentyra. The chief beauty of this portico consists
in the elegant proportions of the shafts of the
columns. The capitals, all of which are different,
are well executed ; they combine the representa
tions of the fruit and leaves of the date, vine,

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 1 35
lotus, &c. &c. Three miles north of Esneh there
is a small temple in ruins, supposed to be situ
ated on the scite of the ancient Aphrbditopolis,
and on the opposite side of the river there is
another on the scite of Contra Latopolis. We
visited neither of these two, as they were both
reported unworthy the trouble, and time was
growing precious. We had stopped at Erment, the
ancient Hermontis, on our passage up the Nile
in May, but as I did not describe any thing above
Thebes in my letter from Philae, I bring it in here
in its place. From the state of the ruins it
would appear that the city was extensive and
compact : the ruins of fqur temples are visible,
but only one at present possesses remains in any
state fit to indicate what they have once been ;
this has but seven columns standing, each of
which has a capital of different architecture from
the other, the whole being composed of repre
sentations of the palm-leaf in various forms.
There are two sanctuaries in the temple, both
ornamented with various symbolic representations,
in basso-relievo, stuccoed and painted. As we
here noticed some groups which we had not
hitherto observed in any other temple, we have
selected some of the most singular as specimens.
In the larger sanctuary are sixteen hippopotami, in
two processions, walking upright ; a hippopotamus

1 36 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
presenting an offering to Horus, who is sitting on
the lotus flower ; various crocodiles, with hawks'
heads, on square cases, either altars or sarcophagi.
Two rows of three monkeys, and two of four
cats ; a human figure, with the Ibis's head, pre
senting offerings to a cat ; a man bearing a globe
on his shoulders ; an oblong-square case orna
mented with flowers all over ; on the top appears
twelve human heads, in four groups of three each,
and below it are their feet with sandals ; these
last are probably men carrying a sarcophagus.
A small human figure (Horus), with a hawk's
head, riding between the horns of a cow (Isis),
and facing Horus, who in this instance is also
sitting on the lotus flower. In the inner sanc
tuary are two cows, with a child sucking each,
the animals with their heads turned round and
looking at the infants — probably Isis and her son
Horus. On the cieling are two rams (Aries) with
wings — a taurus and a Scorpio ; twelve figures
in three rows of four each, with a circular head
ornament, and a star in the centre, probably have
some allusion to the signs of the zodiac. All the
ornaments of these two sanctuaries are highly
finished . Near the temple, on the east side, are the
ruins of an ancient basin, in the centre of which
Denon mentions, on the authority of Aristides,
there was a Nilometer, but the column on which

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 1 37
it was graduated, is not visible now ; the remains
of a flight of steps are still discernible from the
basin up to the temple.
Sunday, August 1 7- Early this morning arrived
at Luxor, part of the ancient Thebes, and took
up our quarters in one of the temples; having
settled every thing and established our house,
„&c. we devoted the day to a careful re-ex
amination of both Luxor and Carnack. At the
former place we carefully inspected the war
scenery on the exterior of the great pylon, but
did not discover any thing novel to cause^ further
observations. We also took particular notice of
the magnificent ; obelisks, and clearly made out
that from eight to ten of the upper hieroglyphics,
with the exception of their being vertically instead
of horizontally written, were the same as the first
characters of the frieze at Ebsambal, and the
same also as the upper hieroglyphics in what are
termed Cleopatra's Needles at Alexandria. We
now went to Carnack and walked leisurely over
all the ruins, inspecting all the paintings, sculp
ture, &c. but found nothing here to add to our
former observations.
Monday, August 1 8. We devoted this day to
visiting the tombs of Gourna, and as Messrs.
Beechey and Belzoni had been employed for
months, by Mr. Salt, in digging and making ex-

138 TRAVELS IN [LETTER 1.
cavations in various directions among the rub
bish of the ancient Thebes, and particularly at
Gourna amongst the tombs, they were of course
the best guides we could possibly have ; it was a
gratifying reflection to think that after they
should have shewn Us the lions, we should leave
nothing behind us unseen, at least as far as has
yet been discovered in this most interesting of
all places. It is customary with the natives to
deceive travellers, and tell them that they have seen
all, before they have inspected half; and it was
precisely this trick they played on us. I must
give' you some reason for this disposition towards
misleading strangers: it may well be imagined that
the population of so immense and magnificent
a city as Thebes, the " city of one hundred gates,"
as Homer styles it, was prodigiously great; now,
as the Egyptian practice of embalming was
always prevalent amongst them, it is not to be
wondered at, that the bowels of the earth near
Gourna should contain an immense number of
mummies. The natives have not been unmindful
of the eagerness with which travellers inquire
after papyri, and other objects of antiquity;
these papyri are generally found under the arms
or between the legs of the mummies, and the
demand for them of late has been so great, in
consequence of an opposition between the French

LETTER I. J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 1 39
party, employed by Mr. Drovetti, and the
English, employed by Mr. Salt, that they now
sell for thirty, forty, and fifty piastres each;
whereas, formerly, you could get them for about
eight or ten. About a dozen of the leading
characters of Gourna, or rather the greatest
rogues, have constantly headed their comrades,
and formed themselves into two distinct digging
parties, or resurrection men, designating them
selves the French and the English party ; these
people are constantly occupied in searching for
new tombs, stripping the mummies, and dis
covering antiquities. The directors have about
three-fourths of the money, and the rest is given
to the inferior labourers. They dread lest stran
gers should see these tombs, which to them are
so many mines of wealth, and should commence
digging speculations of their own — hence the
care of the Gourna people in concealing them.
It would be endless to describe to you all the
intrigues which are carried on by the opposite
parties to augment their collection; or the
presents given to the Defterdar Bey, the Agas,
and the Cashiefs, to attach them to either party.
Lately Mr. Drovetti obtained an order from the
Defterdar Bey, that the natives should neither
sell nor work for the English party, and a cashief
was most severely bastinadoed by the bey's orders,

140 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
and in his presence at Gourna, for assisting the
English. At present, things are on a better
footing. Mr. Drovetti is not an amatuer, but
collects to sell; he offered his museum to Mr.
Salt, on his arrival, for seven thousand pounds,
which he states as his price, but which most
persons seem to think he will never get. He
is now in Upper Egypt, and is gone in search
of a temple and Egyptian road which has been
reported to have been seen by the jelabs, at one
day's journey, in the" desert, from Madfuni, the
ancient Abydus, described in a former letter.
To return to my narrative : the tombs of
Gourna are situated in a valley to the S. W. of
the Memnonium. Those which we first inspected
are considered the best, and consist of two square
courts cut in a bed of calcarious stone. There
are excavations on three sides of the square, and
the fourth, or south side, is that by which they
are entered. The principal excavations are on the
north side ; .these are very extensive, and we
were at a loss which most to admire, the beauty
of the sculpture on the walls, or the grandeur
and extent of the excavations. The former is cut
on the smooth stone, which is very close-grained,
resembling the finest chalk, but without cracks or
flaws, and rather harder; the colour is of so pure
a white, and admits of so fine a polish, that stucco

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 141
has been quite unnecessary. There is a harmony
throughout the decorations of these tombs that we
have no where else noticed ; the sculpture, in intag
lio, will bear the minutest inspection. The plan of
the excavation, extensive as it is, is extremely singu
lar, sometimes abruptly turning either to the right
or left without any apparent cause. At the further
end there is a fine quadrangular court filled up
in the centre with the solid rock; you here meet
with some very rich groups; and there are innu
merable remains of fine statues, in alto-relievo,
leaning against the wall in all directions ; we
could not, however, distinguish one that was
perfect. The art and precision with which the
decorations of these sepulchres are finished, ex
hibiting an endless variety of symbolic represen
tations, in the most elaborate and highly finished
style, is truly astonishing; in some places the
roofs are arched, in others they are flat; here you
meet with a deep well in a corner ; shortly after
you descend by a flight of steps. Some of the hiero
glyphics are painted blue on a pale red ground ;
blue is very common, the colour of the stone itself
serving, occasionally for a fine white field. Amongst
the figures, in basso-relievo, there were many quite
perfect, and so minutely cut, that the eye^brows
and ears, the hair, nose, lips, and the hands and
nails, would bear the closest inspection ; in short,

142 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
throughout the whole of this mausoleum, the
work of a most skilful artist is observable. I
think I may safely say the examination of the
principal tomb occupied us two hours.
We now went to see the mummy pits: it is
impossible to conceive a more singular and
astonishing sight than a tomb of this description.
Imagine a cave of considerable magnitude filled
up with heaps of dead bodies in all directions, and
in the most whimsical attitudes ; some with ex
tended arms, others holding out a right hand,
and apparently in the attitude of addressing you;
sonie prostrate, others with their heels sticking
up in the air; at every step you thrust your
foot through a body or crush a head. Most of the
bodies are enveloped with linen, coated with gum,
&c. for their better preservation. Some of the
linen is of a texture remarkably fine, far surpassing
what is made in Egypt at this day, and proving
that their manufactures must have arrived at a
great degree of excellence. Many of the bodies,
probably of the lower orders, are simply dried,
without any envelopment. Innumerable frag
ments of small idols are scattered about ; they
are mostly human figures of Osiris, about two
inches long, with the hook and scourge in either
hand ; some are of stone, some of baked earthen
ware, and others of blue pottery. Excepting so

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 143
odd and extraordinary an exhibition, few of the
common tombs, which were most likely for the
poorer class of natives, are worth seeing, as none
of them are ornamented in any way whatever ; the
bodies are stowed in compact masses, tier on tier,
always crossing each other. In some instances
we found the hair quiteperfect. It was in a tomb
of this description that some of the diggers found
a beautiful net-work, composed of long blue beads,
hollow, with threads passed through them; the
parts of the net hanging down over the shoulders,
and all emanating from a scarabaeus Thebaicus,
which was on the crown of the head ; it was
found on the head of a female mummy.
At the commencement of this year the diggers
also found two remarkably fine Egyptian vases
of brass, covered with hieroglyphics; they are
nearly two feet high, and are the most valuable
remains of antiquity which have been discovered
for some years, being quite perfect. Mr. B. was
fortunate enough to get them, for Mr. Salt, for
one hundred and seventy piastres — £4s. 5s.
We now went to inspect a newly discovered
tomb, that well recompensed us for our trouble.
Having crawled in through a small hole barely
sufficient for the body to be squeezed in, we
entered a small sepulchral anti-chamber adjoining
to a tomb filled with mummies. From the

144 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
finished style of the decorations of this chamber,
. we concluded that it must have been the tomb of
some noble family ; the paintings are all in fresco,
and so wonderfully well preserved, that not the
least scratch or stain is visible; the pure white
ground of the wall not being even tinged with
yellow. Amongst the groups we noticed an
interesting troop of six musicians, all females,
uniformly dressed in white robes reaching down to
their ankles; over this, they have a sort of black,
loose woollen net hanging over the shoulders,
and reaching down to the waist. Their hair is
jet black, plaited in ringlets, reaching down below
from the outer part of the eye-lids all round the
head, having at first sight the appearance of a
veil. They are all walking in procession and
playing at the same time : the leader has a harp
with fourteen strings; then comes the guitar,
which is not unlike the instrument of that de
scription which we use at this day; then a lute,
which is a handsome instrument; after this
comes another girl clapping her hands, ap
parently keeping time; then another playing
on a sort of double pipe: this instrument is
played on like a clarionet, and is long and thin,
both the tubes being of equal length: the proces
sion closes with a female beating on a tambarine,
which is in this shape J "(. The gestures of

LETTER I.] EGYPT AND NUBIA. 145
these musicians, with their uplifted eyes, would
lead one to suppose they were playing some
impassioned air. The preservation of this group
is astonishing, the colours being perfectly fresh,
and no part whatever in the least defaced.
What would not the French have given for such
a specimen to put in their splendid work? there
is nothing throughout Egypt to be compared to
it. There are also two male harpers in different
parts of this apartment; both are squatted down,
and playing on smaller instruments than that
first described, having only nine strings each;
one is playing alone, the other is. accompanied
by a guitar. These last-mentioned musicians are
bare-headed, and have bare feet: they are ap
parently elderly men. There are many other
groups here, but as they are like what we have
before noticed in other sepulchres, we aVoid
entering into detail. The sacred bull (Apis) is
here most magnificently ornamented, and is a
handsomer animal than we have hitherto noticed.
The cieling of the apartment is divided into four
compartments, each of which is painted with a
different device. Adjoining the chamber, by
means of a small well at one end, is a tomb
filled with mummies, amongst which are the
fragments of a handsome mummy-case, richly
painted and glazed. Some of the bodies are

146 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
covered with canvass, having a coat of plaster
and then painted. We found some of the small
ornaments of earthen ware, frequently called
Nilometers, concealed in the envelope of the
corpses. The valley of Gourna ends at the foot of the
Lybian mountains, where their sides present a
perpendicular precipice ; here are some interesting
antiquities — a granite portal, discovered this year
by digging; an arch, the only built one of
Egyptian architecture to be seen in the country,
and which, from its singular construction, I shall
describe. It is well known that the Egyptians
were ignorant of the regular mode of building
an arch, and it is the knowledge of this circum
stance which helps us frequently, in this country, to
distinguish the works of the Greeks and Romans
from those of their predecessors. The Egyp
tians built their arches in this form Elr^ll ;

the Romans thus fPy\ All the temples
are rOofed over with blocks of stone, frequently
thirty feet long, but as this was the utmost
extent, you consequently never meet a space
between a row of columns wider than this.
Their staircases, whether circular or straight, are
built on the same principle as their arches, being
merely firmly inserted in the side of the wall,
the mason taking care to leave stone enough

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 147
within, to prevent the risk of too great a weight
without, injuring his work ; each step is cut out
of the solid stone. A painted chamber and a
granite dab appear to be the other objects of
interest near to this spot. It seems to have been
a sepulchre, rather than a temple, and has been
approached by two or more avenues. It was
discovered by digging, at Mr. Salt's expence, this
year; but the Defterdar Bey or governour of
Upper Egypt, made them desist from their re
searches ; there are the ruins of a small edifice
below these other objects.
We now proceeded to visit a small temple to
Isis, which is situated to the N. W. of Medinet
Aboo ; its position may be seen from Memno-
nium, but being surrounded by a Saracenic wall
of sun-burnt brick, nothing but one portal is
visible in the distance. This constitutes the
approach to the edifice, and you arrive at a
small portico, the pillars having capitals of the
head of Isis; there is, besides the portico, a
cross anti-chamber, a sanctuary, and two wings;
it is altogether a neat little temple. In the
evening we returned to Luxor, having pre
viously examined the statues and temple at
Memnonium. Tuesday, August 19- Early this morning
crossed i the water with our janissary to pay a

148 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
farewell visit to the Tombs of the Kings. One
of the chief diggers accompanied us to show us
two new tombs discovered by Mr. B. this year.
We inspected them first, but found them quite
unworthy of notice; they are situated in a small
valley adjoining the great one. We now ex
plored the other tombs, but found nothing new
to add to our former observations. In the small
chamber where Bruce copied the harp he gave to
Mr. Burney (for his History of Music), we saw
that traveller's name scratched over the very
harp, which we think strong presumptive evidence
that he drew it himself, though he has been
accused of drawing it afterwards from memory:
he is erroneous in the number of strings which
he has given to it: the instrument itself is not
unlike the original, though the musician is very
indifferently copied. This evening we found
some scorpions which our guide took up in his
hand with great indifference: we remarked that
he took good care always to seize the reptiles by
the tail.
We returned by the way of Memnonium on
foot, ascending to the top of the Lybian chain
which on one side gave us a fine view of the
valley and Tombs of the Kings, while on the
other hand we looked down on the plain which
contains the whole of the ancient Thebes, to-

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 149
gether with the Nile, to great advantage. As a
specimen of Egyptian scenery, it was a splendid
view. As we descended, we counted on one spot
upwards of fifty mummy-pits, discernible by
their mouths or entrances being open, on the
sides of the hills, exclusive of an innumerable
quantity of doors of grottos, sepulchral chambers,
&c. &c. cut out of the sides of the mountains.
We now returned to Luxor, and having seen
every thing, we began to think of returning. I
cannot quit Thebes, however, without a few
observations; most travellers, when speaking of
this ancient capital, make mention of the lines
of Homer, wherein he alludes to Thebes in such
glowing characters. I shall give you Pope's
translation of the passage, and then add a few
observations which occurred to me on the spot.
" Not all proud Thebes' unrivalled walls contain,
" The world's great Empress on th' Egyptian plain ;
" That spreads her conquests o'er a thousand states,
" And pours her heroes through a hundred gates,
" Two hundred horsemen, and two hundred cars,
" From each wide portal issuing to the wars."
In our researches throughout the whole of the
Theban ruins we could not meet with any remains
of either walls or gates, unless the term is applied
to the pylons and other buildings which consti
tuted the approach to the sacred edifices. Now,

150 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
if Thebes was a city which had a hundred gates,
there must surely have been a wall on which to
construct them; and it is not unreasonable to
suppose that the walls of so extensive and mag
nificent a city would have been built with stone,
or at least that the frames or portals of the gates
would have been of that material ; still no vestige
of either gate or wall is to be seen ; and if so
many ruins of temples and theif porticos remain
to this day, why have we not one solitary gate,
or even fragment of the wall left ? Under all
these circumstances, I do not think it an impro
bable conjecture, that it was the numerous
porticos, pylons, &c. of the Theban temples, that
gave to her the boasted reputation of a hundred
gates, more than any real outlets that ever
existed to the city. That she vanquished and
subdued many states, and that the people were
proud of their warlike achievements, appears
from the battles so frequently traced on the
walls ; but we no where observed Egyptian
horsemen, they being always of the enemy's
party in the act of flight, and looking back with
dismay on the conquering Egyptians, who are
invariably in chariots. Much as has been found
amongst the ruins of Thebes, I suspect there
is still much more; and if the English party
are not prevented from digging, it is probable

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. ] 5 1
we shall be continually hearing of some new
discoveries. Friday, August 2 1 . We started early this morn
ing for Cairo, having bargained with the reis to
take us down for thirty piastres— fifteen shillings.
The boat was laden with lentiles for the pashaw.
We got a few mats over-head for a shade, and
found the cargo a good soft place whereon to
put our beds ; the sailors, in the boat, offering to
help us in our cooking operations, we found we
did as well without as with a servant.
Saturday, August 22. This morning we stopped
at Tentyra, and, as our reis said he should not start
for an hour, we determined to revisit the temple
of Isis * ; we accordingly started on foot for that
* The inscription on the listel of the cornice, in front of this
temple, speaks of it as dedicated to Venus, which agrees with
Strabo, who says, "The Tentirites worship Venus; behind the
temple of Venus is a sanctuary (fef>&») of Isis-" The latter still
exists ; it is a small temple without columns. It is curious
that the French savans did not copy this inscription ; either
they did not see it, or, stranger still, none of them knew Greek
enough to be able to copy the letters, which are considerably
broken and erased, it was first copied by Colonel Leake and
Mr. Hamilton. It is not surprising that the French, having
failed as to the inscription of Tentyra, should have omitted
others more difficult, or that they should have occupied Alexandria
for three years without having been able to decypher a single
word of the, inscription on the column of Diocletian. Colonel
Leake was the first to discover the legibility of this inscription,
by making out the words aaeeanapeias and eiiapxoz AirrnTor.

152 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
purpose, but when we had got two-thirds of our
way, we found the canal was filled, and that we
must either swim over it or return; as we were
dressed in our Arab costume, the former alter
native was not difficult ; we therefore threw our
clothes over and plunged in. We examined the
temple, and did not forget the little chamber, in
which we had before noticed the circular astro
nomical table on the cieling to be a monument of
the same kind as the Isiac table which we had seen
at Turin. It was in the cieling of the other half
of this chamber that Mr. Ruppell discovered a
complete lunar system, which, had totally escaped
Denon and all the other French savans. Mr. R.
took an exact copy of this interesting tablet,
clearly making it to contain twelve moons and a
bit of another, which no doubt was meant for the
odd five days, as the twelve make three hundred
and sixty. As this throws an additional light on
the Egyptian mode of calculating the year, it
is a matter of no small interest, and reflects
the more credit on Mr. Ruppell, as so many
travellers have examined this chamber, and this
circumstance never occurred to them. In the great
The joint efforts of himself and Mr. Hamilton ; and Colonel
Squires during several days afterwards decyphered what can be
seen of the remainder. See Classical Journal

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 153
French work they have put down fourteen or
fifteen moons, never having taken the trouble to
count them. Having returned we continued our
voyage. Tuesday, August 25. Stopped at Siout and
went up to pay our respects to the hospitable
doctor, Marouky — found him as friendly as ever ;
— stopped two hours, and pushed on.
Wednesday the 26th. Visited Mr. Brine, a
grateful remembrance of whose kindness also
induced us to call. We here took charge of the
heads of two Egyptian mummy-cases, and other
antiquities dug up for Mr Salt from a spot
supposed to be the burial place of Hermopolis,
near the Lybian chain.
Thursday, August 27. Stopped at Houarti. As
this was the village of our crew, we were obliged
to reconcile our minds to stop for three days,
while they made merry with their friends and
relations. We had scarcely arrived here an hour,
when our reis came to ask us to lend him the
two mummy-cases which we had on board. He
said he should like to have them up at the village
for an hour ; we lent them immediately, not
having any idea of his reason for borrowing them.
On the following day, however, we found out, for
numbers of women came down and requested
them, when they alternately walked three times

154 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
round them, crossing over them each time ; this
we found was to procure them families. From
this time the women were constantly arriving,
young and old, and all going through the same
ceremony ; they were all very serious during the
performance of this mystery, and seemed to
think it odd that we laughed so much. Our
sailors informed us there were some antiquities
at the foot of the Mockatem, about one hour and
a half's distance ; they mentioned temples and
catacombs ; we did not much believe them, but
were glad of any excuse for a trip to pass away
the time, and accordingly started with one of
the reis's brothers for a guide. He took us to a
very extensive and finely situated site of a city,
which, from the state of the rubbish, must have
been of some consequence ; its situation is at the
mouth of a valley in the Mockatem, on an
elevated spot, at the edge of the cultivated
plains of which it commands a fine view. The
modern village of Tehene is close to it. The ruins
have been much dug up by the Arabs in search
of antiquities. We only found one capital ap
proaching to the Corinthian order, most likely
Roman. Immediately above the rubbish is a
considerable range of catacombs and ancient
temples hollowed out of the rock. One small
temple of Isis is well worthy of notice, the de-

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 155
corations, in basso-relievo, being finished in a
good style. At about a quarter of an hour's
walk along the side of the mountain, to the
southward, we saw a large excavated space, and
on the top a frieze with a Greek inscription, the
letters of which are remarkably large. ' It is about
three fathoms long, and its size (the letters being
nearly one foot long) made us believe it must be
generally known ; therefore we did not copy it.
We clearly made ont the word ptoaemakks ; but
thinking it common, did not notice it much. We
have since found that no travellers notice the
site, and the inscription is not known. We have
therefore given the particulars to Mr. Salt. A
very old map of Danville's, on a small scale, has
the site of an ancient town, under the name of
Cynopolis placed nearly in a parallel of latitude
with this. We now sailed, and continuing our
voyage, arrived at Cairo on the 31st August.
Wednesday, September 1. Our .first care now
was to shave our beards, which we had allowed to
grow from our first departure from Philae, and re
sume our European costume ; we felt as awkward
at first at this change of dress, as we did when we
first assumed the Arab costume. Mr. Salt re
ceived us very civilly. We found that great
discoveries had been made at the pyramids and
sphinx during our absence;, and the first thing

156 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
that drew our attention was Mr. Salt's elucidative
plan of the pyramids, sphinx, and all their inte
resting environs. As the whole account of the
proceedings is going home for publication, I shall
only trouble you with a few particulars. On our
arrival we found,. at Mr. Salt's house, Colonel Strat-
ton, of the Enniskillen dragoons, and Mr. Fuller :
these two travellers had come from making the
tour of Palestine, having lastly arrived by land
from Yaffa and Gaza. They embarked at Con
stantinople, having first made the tour of Greece.
As they had not yet been to the pyramids, we
were glad to have an opportunity of accompanying
them. Friday, September 4. We went early in the
morning, and Mr. Salt having lent us a copy of
his newly made plan, we regularly went over the
whole neighbourhood, place after place, according
to the plan ; we found there was nothing new for
us to see, excepting afewof the upper steps fronting
the sphinx. Unfortunately for us and all future
travellers, they have filled up all the excavations of
the sphinx, so that there is not so much to be seen
now, as there was previous to our departure,
the base having been perfectly cleared on one side,
before we started for Upper Egypt. From the se
veral drawings and plans which we have seen, to
gether with the description we have heard, it appears

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 157
that the indefatigable Captain Caviglia continued
his operations till he had cleared all the breast of the
animal; that he afterwards pursued his labours
till he reached the paws, at fifty feet distance from
the body ; and here it was, between the two, that
he discovered the small temple, views of which
are given in this work. I imagine this small edifice
was composed of three large, flat stones, like a
similar shrine in the possession of Mr. Salt, and
that the door was filled up by two smaller pieces
of stone on each side of it ; these sides have some
fine specimens of basso-relievo, and give a fine
idea of what the sphinx originally was. A man
is depicted as presenting an offering to it ;
some inscriptions also are interesting, and one
of Caracalla has the name of Geta, his brother,
erased, as in the Latin inscription at Syehe.
The lions which were found, together with the
tablets, in basso-relievo, have been sent home to
the British Museum, were I hope you will see
them. The great head of Memnon will please
you, and when you contemplate its grandeur,
recollect that Thebes has at present the remains
of thirty-seven statues of equal dimensions ; many
greater. Beyond the small temple is an altar.
To describe the other parts, I must beg you to
imagine yourself fronting the face of the sphinx, at
a considerable distance, and nearly on a level with

158 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
the lower part of the face, and also with the
ground adjoining the animal. As you advance,
you find at some distance from the paws, a
flight of steps which lead some depth below
the paws to the , base of the temple. Mr. Salt
is of opinion that this descent by steps was
meant to impress the beholder (after having first
viewed the sphinx at a distance on a level) with
a more imposing idea of its grandeur, when he
views the breast in its full magnitude from below.
A wall of sun-burnt brick was on each side of the
steps, to prevent the sand from filling up the
space. Afterwards we went all over the great
pyramid, again descending to the lower chamber,
which Captain Caviglia discovered, and also rein-
spected the well, &c. We could not shew them
Colonel Davidson's chamber, as the Arabs had
stolen the rope ladder which was left there.
After having slept at the mouth of the great
pyramid, we returned to Cairo; the excursion
occupied us two days. When we were last at Cairo,
a trip to the sphinx used to take two hours; we
were now five hours going there, the inundation
of the Nile forcing us to go more than double
the distance round the edge of the canals. We
went in a cangia, or rowing boat, as the canal
was quite full. As we are now about to leave
Egypt, I shall add a few remarks before I

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 159
quit of the subject. In my last I said nothing
about Cairo. All Turkish towns impress Europe
ans with very unfavourable ideas; the streets are
invariably narrow, and the fronts of the houses
look like so many barn doors. Cairo is particu
larly ill-built, and a stranger on arriving, after
having heard so much of " Grand Cairo," can
scarcely believe his own eye-sight when he finds
himself in this miserable hole ; and this is the
more striking, as at a short distance the lofty
minarets give it a grand appearance. Miserable
narrow streets, the square bow windows meeting
over the head, and built with unpainted deal
wood; no pavement to be seen; grates substi
tuted for panes of glass ; a dirty ill-dressed popu
lace, and women covered up like so many ghosts,
may give you some idea of this metropolis. The
various classes of inhabitants, such as Turks,
Arabs, Copts, Jews, Franks, &c. have their re
spective quarters where they ; reside in detached
societies; each quarter has its gate and porter to
attend it; all are shut at eight o'clock in the
evening ; after which time it is customary to fee
the porter to get admittance. In case of revolutions,
when the troops go about robbing and plundering
all they meet with, these gates become of great
service. The citadel of Cairo is built on a com
manding eminence ; here the pashaw resides :

160 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
great merit is due to this man for the tran
quillity which exists at present throughout Egypt,
and could such an atrocious crime as the murder
of the mamelukes be over-looked, he might be
considered as a great man ; this barbarous act
was committed about six years ago : the un
suspecting victims, about two thousand in number,
were invited to the castle to be present at the
presentation of the Pelisse to the pashaw's son,
Toussein, and his investiture with the command
of Jidda, including the government of the sacred
city of Mecca. During the ceremony, the walls
and tops of the houses, the castle, &c. were lined
with troops, and on a signal given, as the mame
lukes were returning, the soldiers opened their
fire on them, and they were all shot to a man.
Egypt at present presents a very different ap
pearance to what it did when we went upward ;
the Nile having overflowed, all the villages are
insulated, and being invariably surrounded with
date palm-trees (which partly conceal the mud-
huts) and give a pleasing and lively appearance to
the face of the country. The river also, in some
places, appears of prodigious width, whole plains
being overflowed for many miles. We were pe
culiarly fortunate, having seen Egypt throughout,
with the Nile at its lowest ebb, and also at its
greatest elevation. There are no hedges in this

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 1 6 1
country, the division of land being exactly like
that of the Pays Bas. There is no freehold pro
perty, all the land being let out by the pashaw,
who afterwards forces the peasants to sell their
property to him only, and at his price. Soldiers
are quartered in all the principal villages to en
force a due observance of this law. All the boats
are likewise monopolized by him, and at his price.
Gun-boats are stationed at the narrow passes of •
the river, to prevent the passage of any barks
unless laden. for the pashaw. The Arabs, Copts,
&c. who become rich in spite of this oppressive
system, are allowed but little enjoyment of their
wealth ; if any one of them has built a fine house, it
often happens that he is desired to turn out, and
give it up to some Greek, Turk, or perhaps to an
European consul, and should he not immediately
obey, his head is the forfeit. It is a curious
fact, that no water-plants or weeds grow on the
banks of the Nile ; a sedgy margin is never to
be met with in this country. The lotus, affecting
fens and marshy places, could only flourish dur
ing the most propitious part of the year, when
the overflowing of the Nile promoted its growth :
hence it was so favourite a plant with the an
cients ; and it is generally coupled with all sym
bolic allusions to the river. This year the Nile
has risen seventeen picsror thirty-four feet ; this
M

162 TRAVELS IN [LETTER I.
is called a good Nile. Last year it rose eighteen
pics, which produced a very plentiful crop. We
went the other day to the island of Rhoda to see
the Mekias, but the column of graduation was
wholly covered by the water ; so that we might
have spared ourselves the trouble. The island,
however, now presents a complete carpet of ver
dure, with beautiful sycamore trees (ficus syca-
morus of Linnaeus) and well recompensed us.
There are no barns in Egypt : the peasant being
sure of fair weather at harvest-home, the corn is
immediately thrashed, and the grain is piled up
in immense hills, encircled by a wall. The birds
are freely allowed their share, though, during the
time it is ripening, their claims are disputed by
children, who are placed on elevated mud-hillocks,
scattered in all directions throughout the plains ;
here they bawl and fling stones by means of a
sling, to deter the feathered robbers from their
depredations. The other day we went to Bou
lack, situated on the banks of the Nile ; it is, pro
perly speaking, the port of Cairo, and the busy
scene it presents at this time of the year, is not
exceeded by any of our qupys in Europe. The
large dgerms, some of forty and fifty tons, make
an immense profit during the overflowing of the
Nile ; the stream brings them down with great
rapidity, and the strong north breeze takes them

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 163
up again with equal speed. It is said these boats
sometimes clear half their original cost the first
season ; a great part of the year, when the Nile
is in its bed, they are laid up in ordinary, as their
great draught of water prevents them navigating
at that season. We thought it remarkable that
we had never met, throughout Egypt, with the
remains of any thing like a pavement to their
cities, with the exception of Antinoe, where we
clearly made out the streets paved in many
places. Egypt begins to fill with English travellers : a
few days ago Captain Bennet (dragoons) and Mr.
Jolliffe arrived from making the tour of Palestine.
The former is gone up as high as Assuan with
Colonel Stratton and Mr. Fuller ; the latter is
obliged to return immediately to England. We
start in a few days for the tour of Syria. Sheikh
Ibrahim who travels for the African Association,
and who is mentioned in Mr. Legh's publication,
has been of great assistance to us with his advice, in
tracing out our route, &c. This he also did for
both the travellers mentioned above. Mr. Salt is
very kind and attentive to us ; we dine with him
every day, and he has allowed us to copy his map
of Syria. We intend to cross the desert on
camels to Gaza ; to visit the whole sea-coast up
to Latachia ; from thence to cross over the moun-

164 TRAVELS IN [LETTER T.
tains by Antioch to Aleppo ; to go to Palmyra or
Damascus according to circumstances, and from
Damascus to Jerusalem, visiting in our way all the
curiosities to be seen in the neighbourhood of our
route. We calculate that the tour will occupy us
till the middle of January, when we mean to em
bark at Alexandria for Smyrna and Constanti
nople. By the time we get off for Syria, (which
will be in a few days) we shall have been fourteen
months absent ; we have supplied ourselves with
provisions, clothes, and arms, viz. two muskets and a
brace of pistols, and have spent only one hun
dred and ninety pounds each, including our share
of the boat-hire from Philae, up to the second
cataract, and back to Thebes, and also of the ex
penses at Ebsambal, excepting the payment of
the labourers and the presents to the cashiefs. Mr.
Salt furnishes us with letters of introduction to
Lady Hester Stanhope, Mr. Barker, the consul at
Aleppo, and all the English agents in Syria. Lord
and Lady Belmore arrived at Alexandria in their
yacht on the eighth instant, and embarked for
Cairo on the seventeenth ; we expect them daily.
Before we leave Egypt, I should inform you
that we discovered an interesting tomb, opposite
to Mr. Brine's, at Radimore ; the sides were
covered with paintings, amongst which are two
groups, of a description very rarely, if ever to be

LETTER I.J EGYPT AND NUBIA. 1 65
met with; one of them represents the removal of
a colossus between thirty and forty feet high, and
seated on a chair; upwards of a hundred la
bourers are employed. The other drawing re
presents an Egyptian garden, with exotics in
flower-pots arranged on the terrace, near to
which is an arbour, bee-hives, &c. &c. Mr. Bankes
and Mr. Beechey are the only travellers who have
visited this tomb since we discovered it : the for
mer has accurate drawings of all its contents.

LETTER II.

TOUR IN EGYPT AND SYRIA.
Departure from Cairo, through the Desert, to El Arish.
Gaza.— 'Asdoud. — Jaffa. — Cesarea. — Tortura. — Ath
lite. — Mount Carmel. — Acre. — Tsour. — Saida. — Bay
ruth. — Gebail. — Tripoli. — Cedars of Lebanon. — Baal
bec. — Tortosa. — Jebilee. — Latachia or Latakia. —
Antioch. — Arrival at Aleppo. Aleppo, December 6, 1817.
On the first of October, at eight A. M. we were
without the walls of Cairo. We had made a
bargain with an Arab for three camels to conduct
us to Jaffa for thirty dollars. About eleven we
passed on our left the obelisk of Mataria, the site
of the ancient Heliopolis ; shortly after we passed
close to the ruins of another ancient city on the
skirts of the desert ; the only object of interest in
them is a statue in a sitting posture, mutilated*
but originally well executed. Our road was in the
desert, but close to the cultivated plains, which
extend no further from the Nile than where the
soil can be benefitted by the overflowings of the
river, either by natural or artificial means. This
causes a sudden separation between the barren

168 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
sand and irrigated land, having the appearance of
a sea beach. In the evening we saw some gazelles
on the right. We had left Cairo with only one
camel and three asses ; the other two camels we
were to meet at a village in the evening. We
had enlisted in our service a Maltese interpreter
who mounted the third ass, while the camel
carried our baggage. Arriving in the evening
at the village before mentioned, we parted with
the asses, and at eleven at night set out again on
the three camels, with their owner and his black
slave. We heard the howling of wild beasts
during the night, resembling the cries of human
beings in distress. We suppose them to have been
jackalls. October 2. This morning we remained se
veral hours at a village, where our conductor
bought an ass: we were here joined by a camel
laden; the owners object appeared to be to profit
by our protection, seeing we were armed. As
the Tarabeen Arabs of the desert through which
we were to pass have the character of being
notorious robbers, we were not sorry to see
our number thus increased ; the stranger was
bound to a village near Gaza. We passed,
this day, occasionally through the skirts of the
desert, as well as of the cultivated plains ; the
latter are rich beyond description, with the

LETTER II. J SYRIA. ] 69
finest crops of doura we had seen. The retiring
floods have left the land inundated with great
and handsome lakes, and the soil being saturated
as it were, and receiving at the same time the
heat of an ardent sun, produces a very rapid
vegetation. We slept this night in the de
sert, and on the following morning we halted at
Selahieh, the last village on our road, which is
situated on the borders of the cultivated plains of
Egypt. We remained here a few hours to lay in
a stock of water and provisions for the desert,
which we entered "by keeping more to the east
ward. On leaving the village, at two P. M. we
were astonished at the picturesque appearance
of the desert covered with wild shrubs; the
occasional hill and dale, gives a pleasing variety
to the scene, very different from what we had
been accustomed to in Nubia, where the desert
deserves that appellation in the strictest sense,
being nothing but a barren expanse of 'sand and
rock, totally destitute of every sign of verdure
or vegetation. The difference I have alluded to
is to be attributed to the nightly dews in this
more northern climate, which, though sufficient
to nourish dwarf shrubs, would not be capable of
irrigating a -sandy soil divested of water, and
consequently of every other means of moisture.
Wells of brackish water are occasionally met

1 70 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
with, which serve to sustain the numerous gazelles
which we constantly see feeding in the distance.
We frequently met with birds, and in some places
the quail and partridge are seen in considerable
numbers. We found that, although the camels are
capable when grazing, and without work, of going
five, six, and even seven days without drinking,
it is necessary that, when travelling, they should
drink at least every three days ; and our driver,
whenever he met with water, even if they had
drank the day before, never failed to let them
drink again, which always appeared to refresh
them much, for the heavy sand fatigues these ani
mals in a great degree, though they perspire but
very little, which tends much to the retention of
that moisture so necessary for their support ; they
were constantly feeding as they went along, the
length of their necks allowing them easily to do so.
We could not but notice the provident bounty of na
ture in planting the desert with vegetables of a suc
culent and nutritious kind. It is undoubtedly to the
want of verdure in the Nubian desert, as well as
throughout the interior of that of Lybia, that we are
to ascribe the difficulty of exploring those parts of
Africa, as every camel there must have another to
carry its provisions. Our road, or rather our track,
was tolerably good. At Selahieh we had been
joined by a man with asses, an Arab without a

LETTER II. J SYRIA. 1 7 1
nose, a free negro, and six Muggrabins, one of
whom was from Morocco, another from Algiers,
and a third from Tunis, all bound on their pil
grimage to Mecca. By keeping with us they
secured for themselves a supply of water of which
we had a good stock. They had separated from the
great caravan from Morocco, consisting often thou
sand camels, which we met on our last expedition
to the pyramids, when we learnt that the two sons
of the emperor of Morocco were among the
pilgrims. This immense assemblage had been
five months on their journey when we met
them. October 4. We passed, on our left, the great
lake, which is situated to the east of Damietta_
We were obliged to cross several rivers and pools
of salt water, sometimes up to the bellies of the
camels, the arabs and asses swimming across.
In the afternoon we passed, on our left, the ruins
of Pelusium, but they were too far distant for us
to visit them, and too many pools and lakes lay
between. In the evening the desert became more
hilly, with occasionar clumps of palm-trees in
the vallies. In one of these we remained for the
night, near a well of brackish water. We saw
some gazelles during the course of the day.
October 5. We had much the same country,
the palm-trees, however, ceasing. We met many

1 72 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
carcases and detached bones of camels and asses,
who had probably dropped with thirst and
fatigue; we also passed a few wells of indifferent
water. This evening Mahomet, our camel driver,
made bread ; he kneaded the dough in a leathern
napkin (6), and mixing a good deal of salt with it,
made a flat round cake about half an inch thick,
and baked it on dried camel's dung (7) ; it was
very good. We saw several gazelles near where
we slept.
October 6. In the morning we came near a
bay on the sea coast. We passed, on the right,
some Bedouins ; saw a very fine hare ; the sand
became heavier, and the shrubs less plentiful ;
laborious work for the camels; we, however,
occasionally passed through some long damp
plains between the sand-hills. We met a small
caravan laden with tobacco ; the attendants were
armed, having two pistols and some swords.
They asked backsheeish of us in a very rude
manner, but we refused to give it, and. determined
to make the best possible display of our fire
arms for the future. I have little doubt that these
people use their arms to commit robberies when
opportunity offers, as much as to protect them
selves; indeed their insolent demand on us goes
much to prove it. We still find the road strewed
with bleached carcases of camels and asses.

LETTER II. J SYRIA. 173
October 7. We passed over a plain of about four
miles in length, covered with thick, hard salt,
resembling in appearance sheets of firmly frozen
snow (B); the surface bore the weight of our
animals without giving way in the least. While
we were resting at breakfast, a man came on
horse-back, and talked to the camel driver a good
deal, saying, he wished to know who we were^
that he was a guard, and had orders^ to stop all
Europeans travelling without a soldier of the
pashaw of Egypt. He also asked for backsheeish,
but did not address himself to us; we kept our
arms in sight, and he seeing we took no notice Of
him, shortly after retired. The road was now
level, which relieved the poor animals a good
deal, and we soon reached the sea beach. At
three in the afternoon we arrived at El Arish.
About an hour before we reached it, we stopped
at some wells of fresh water, where we found a
great assemblage of camels and many Tarabeeh
Arabs, who appeared to stop all passengers ; they
entered into a violent dispute with our conductors,
which we did not understand, but they took no no
tice of us. They presently levied a contribution oh
the other Arabs who accompanied us, and certainly
we should have shared the same fate had it not
been for the appearance of our arms, as the chief
followed us all the way to El Arish, surveying

1 74 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
our baggage with the most thievish inquisitive-
ness (9). We were also passed by the man on
horseback, who had visited us at breakfast, but
observing that we kept our muskets in our hands,
he said it was not against us that he meditated hos
tilities, and galloped on. At El Arish are some
Roman ruins, as would appear by several marble
columns we noticed ; there is a very fine well of
good water here. The village is situated on a
slight eminence about half a mile from the sea,
from which it is hidden by sand hills and clumps
of palms. The principal part is inclosed within
a high wall of considerable thickness, having loop
holes all round for musketry, and a walk also;
there is an octagon battery for cannon at each
angle. Some ruined guns and old French ammu
nition boxes are all the warlike stores it contains.
This place is remarkable for the treaty made
between Sir Sidney Smith and the French army,
for the evacuation of Egypt, which his superiors
would not ratify. The land about El Arish
is quite barren.
October 8. Soon after midnight we left this
place ; the morning was cold and foggy till sun
rise; about an hour after, we stopped to breakfast.
We begged our camel drivers to halt in a vale at
some distance from the road, that our Tarabeen
neighbours might not discover us. We had,

LETTER II. J SYRIA, 175
however, scarcely unladen the camels, when one
of our yesterday's friends came, and seated himself
in the midst of us. We could not help being
surprised at this fellow's adherence to us, as we
were now nine hours from the place where we
had first met him, and had been travelling in the
dark. We requested he would take himself
off, as he could have no business with us ;
he walked away apparently disappointed at not
meeting some of his companions to assist him in
plundering us. The desert was now much the same
as at first, the shrubs increasing. In the forenoon
we passed an extensive plain where there are
wells of tolerable water, a sheikh's tomb, and a
Mahomedan burial-place. In the afternoon we
had occasional views of the sea. We this day
passed many flocks of sheep and goats, peasants,
and several laden camels. The attendants were
usually armed, and eyed our baggage with a
scrutinizing look, but the sight of the muskets has
always had its effect on them. We saw this day
some partridges, and numerous gerba, a sort of
rat which runs like the kangaroo. About four we
passed a temple of considerable magnitude ; two
pillars of grey granite are standing, with several
prostrate fragments, and a large wall constructed
with antique remains. At sun-set we reached
the village of Haneunis. It has a long square ¦¦

176 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
*
fortification inclosing a mosque. The approach to
this place is picturesque ; it is seated in a valley, and
its environs are prettily laid out with gardens, trees,
&c. ; there is but little land turned to agricultural
purposes. We remarked both the houses and in
habitants to be cleaner and handsomer than those
in Egypt. There are many marble fragments of
columns, &c. which mark the site of a town of
Roman antiquity. As we have now reached the
confines of Syria, and are beginning to enter an
inhabited and cultivated country, a few remarks
on the mode of travelling may not be uninterest
ing. We had often enquired about the cheer we
were likely to meet with in crossing the desert,
and were always told about hardships, such as
want Of water, the fatiguing pace of the camels,
and the total privation of every accommodation.
Bruce's narrative had also led us to expect very
indifferent fare. With these unfavourable prog
nostics we were not a little surprised to find our
journey a most pleasant one. The pace of the
camels we found very agreeable; the open air
was the best place to sleep during the night, and
even then it was rather too warm; and as for
water and provision we took care to lay in a good
stock of both, so that we fed remarkably well ;
and indeed, if I except the heat, which about
noon was more than is agreeable (the skin of our

LETTER II.J SYRIA. 1 77
noses being blistered off by it), I may safely say, I
never made a more pleasant trip in my life. The
pace of the camels is somewhat tedious, being
little more than two miles an hour, or about the
rate of Russel's waggon ; but this required only
some of that patience which his waggoners must
needs possess. Our camels, during this trip, were
only once three days without drinking.
October 9- At daylight we proceeded, the road
leading through a barren country that resembled a
heath. In two hours we came to the village of
Esdier, prettily situated, with a view of the sea.
There is here some land well cultivated and arti
ficially watered, with the sackey, as in Egypt ;
the principal produce is tobacco. Beyond the
village, here and there are beautiful sycamore-
trees, similar to those in Egypt, in an uncul
tivated plain. We remained four hours under
one of these trees for the purpose of drying all
our things, which were wetted by the salt water
on the fourth, unperceived till this day. While
we were thus employed, a woman came hastily
forth from the village, and seating herself on the
ground, under a tree near us, bewailed most
bitterly, throwing the sand over her head with
frantic gesticulations which lasted about twenty
minutes, when her husband, with whom we heard
she had quarrelled came, and with difficulty drew

178 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
her off (10). There are some marble remains of an
tiquity at Esdier. Hereabout appears to be the si
tuation where the sea coast turns to the north. We
thought we perceived a sensible change in the
weather; the dews for some nights: past had been
very heavy; this morning the N.E. wind blew keenly,
but the sky was fine and clear. From Esdier to
Gaza, which latter place we reached at four P. M.
are fine extensive plains prettily cultivated ; and
the neighbourhood of Gaza itself is richly wooded
with olives, sycamores, mulberries, cedars, fig-
trees, &c. &c. the country is inclosed by hedges.
of prickly pears, the hills gently rising to the
view beyond each other, and the whole has a
beautiful appearance. Excepting the less perish
able materials, with which the houses are con
structed, stone being substituted for mud, the
town partakes of the wretched appearance of
those in Egypt. The rains in winter have,
forced the natives to roof their houses, whereas in
Upper Egypt they only lay some canvass across
to shade them from the sun, that being the only.
inconvenience they have to guard against. We
remarked that the inhabitants here were cleaner
and better looking, the women being dressed in
a white or blue shirt, and a white shawl thrown
loosely over the head, with which those who have
no other veil, cover then facfs occasionally.

LETTER II.J' SYRIA. 179
Being tired, and having nine days beard, we did
not visit the town ; we were further discouraged
by our servant having been scoffed at on account
of the difference of religion. The gates of Gaza/
were carried away by Sampson at midnight to
escape from the inhabitants^ (") : this town was
the frontier of the land of Canaan. — (See Gen.
c. x.) October 10. At four "A. M. we left Gaza,1 the
road for two hours was through beautiful groves
of olives. We then entered an open, country,
partly cultivated. We passed some villages on
each side of us, and the dry torrent Escol over a
bridge of two high arches. About noon we had
on our left Majudal a large village with a mosque,
situated in a valley, surrounded by groves of
olives. At three in the afternoon we arriged at
Asdoud, the site of the Roman Azotus ; near it is
an antique building in the form "of an open
square, which we at first took to be Roman, but
as the Turkish khans for the accommodation of
caravans and travellers, are built much" in the
same manner, we are rather inclined to believe
it to be a very ancient khan. I will give you a
description of it, which will convey some idea of
what these khatts are. The inclosed court is
entered by an arched passage, within which, on
each side, are piazzas formed of five arches, two

1 80 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
on each side of a larger one in the centre. On
each side of the south entrance are chambers,
on the right, steps to ascend to the top of the
building. The chamber on the left has evidently
been used as a primitive Christian chapel, as
appears by an altar and a cross ; and there is
an inscription in some Eastern language over
the door. There are other arches in ruins,
partly buried, closer to the village, and a marble
fragment which would appear to have once form
ed the capital of a Corinthian column. The
natives of this place flocked round us in numbers,
looking at us with wonder and astonishment, as
well as every thing belonging to us ; after we
thought they had sufficiently surveyed us, we
begged them to retire ; they shewed no incivility,
but ( said they came to look at us, because it
seldom happened that Europeans arrived near
this village. Some women came also, with a sick
young man, apparently in a consumption, asking
medical advice; we assured them we were not
hackim (doctors), which they did not believe, and
we luckily recollected that our Maltese inter
preter had some " balsam of Mecca," which the
friars say is an antidote for all distempers ; we
gave them some accordingly, which appeared to
excite much gratitude. They, however, soon re
turned to beg some of our hair, saying that the

LETTER Il.J SYRIA. 181
smoke of Christian hair burnt while the medicine
was warming would ensure a cure of the disorder*.
We could not help laughing at their superstition,
but they continued to entreat us ; for my part I
had little to spare, and Irby did not seem inclined
to give any of -his. Seeing we were averse to
this latter remedy, they at length retired and
brought us some honey and bread by way of
return; this we offered to pay, for, but they
would not accept any thing. We had been ad
vised by Sheikh Ibrahim to go from Gaza to Jaffa,
by the way of Ascalon, or Ashkelon, but our camel
conductor could not be prevailed upon to go
through that place, as it is not on the direct
road, and he would be liable to a penalty if he
deviated from the common rout of the camels ;
a regulation intended, we suppose, to prevent
smuggling, as Ascalon is on the sea coast. At
Ascalon we should have seen part of a Roman
amphitheatre, and some excavations made by
Lady Hester Stanhope, in search of supposed
treasure, which failed of success; but what "we
saw at Azotus in some measure recompensed us.
This we should have missed had we gone by
Ascalon ; it was at Ashkelon that Sampson slew

* Mungo Park, at Dingyee, was requested by a foulah to give
him a lock of his hair to make a saphie.

182 TRAVELS IN* [LETTER II.
thirty men (Judges, xiv. v. 19). Asdoud is called
Ashdod in the Old Testament (see Isaiah, xx.
Jeremiah, xxv. ; Amos, i. ib. iii. ; Zeghariah. xix. ;
and Zephaniah, ii.). It is called Azotus in the Acts
of the Apostles, and by the Romans. Palmyra,
built by Solomon by the name of Tedmor, or
Tadmor, is another instance, among many in Syria,
of places haying regained their, original names.
The Arabs in that neighbourhood know nothing
of Palmyra, always calling it Tedmor.
October lh Before daylight, we quitted
Asdoud; the country is open and little, cultivated,
though: the soil is. very rich, evincing a sad
want of population. In the afternoon we passed
some ruins, apparently Roman ; they .appear, to
have been an aqueduct to convey water to the
road side, which is to the eastward of the tract
we traversed; we passed also a well which our
conductor told us contained poisonous water ;
we also passed, on our right, Yabne,. the ancient
Jamnia, situated on a small eminence. < About
noon we crossed the nahr (or river) El Rnbin, close
to the ruins of a Roman bridge, one great arch of
which, and a part of another, only remain, over
grown with bushes and weeds, which- have a
pretty effect ; and certainly to an amateur of the
picturesque, the ruins of Syria must have a
decided advantage over those of Egypt, where an

LETTER II.] SYRIA. 183
arid climate totally prevents the appearance of
the least spot of verdure on a ruined fabric; be it
ever so old. The traveller is, however, highly
recompensed for this deficiency, by the compara
tively high.state of preservation in which he finds
the Egyptian monuments, notwithstanding their
superior antiquity ; and I really believe that he
who has once seen Egypt, will never feel equally
interested in any other country. It is this feeling
that has brought Mr. Bankes back to the Nile,
after having explored Greece, Asia Minor, and
the Archipelago, and he is now gone a second
time to Thebes. The river El Rubin, above the
bridge, is nearly dry, and filled with wild flowers
and rushes. Below it there is a handsome wind
ing sheet of water, the banks of which are like
wise covered with various water-flowers, and
many black water-fowl were swimming on its
surface; the water is bad, but not salt. On the
opposite side of this river, on a small eminence,
is Sheikh Rubin's tomb, surrounded by a
square wall, with some trees inclosed. There
are in Syria and Egypt numbers of these
tombs, which the Arabs erect to the memory
of any man who they think has led a holy
life, for the title of sheikh is not only given
to their chiefs, but also to their saints. These
tombs are generally placed in Some conspicuous

1 84 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II. ¦
spot, frequently on the top of some mount. The
sepulchre consists of a small apartment with a
cupola over it, white-washed externally (10) ;
within are deposited a mat and ajar of water for
the ablution of such as retire there for devotion.
Sheikh Rubin, who lived many years since, appears
to have been much respected, and the people to
this day go to pay vows at his shrine ; they also
bring provisions and make festivals there; the
river no doubt receives its appellation from this
sheikh. Leaving the neighbourhood of the nahr
El Rubin, we crossed the sand hills and came to
the sea beach, four or five miles south of Jaffa,
and continued coasting till we came to the back
of the hill, on the opposite side of which stands
the - town ; here we crossed over between the
most beautiful gardens filled with vines and figs,
prickly pears, &c. though the soil is a deep sand.
We arrived at Jaffa, the ancient Joppa, about
five P. M. On our right we saw Ramla, the
ancient Arimathea, and Loudd, the ancient
Lydda ; the former is in the road to Jerusalem.
There being no inns or khans in the sea-port
towns, for the accommodation of travellers, we
were obliged to repair to the English consuls.
We found the British representative at the door
of his house, and as he was a perfect original, I
will give you some description of him. He was a

LETTER II.] SYRIA. 1 85
man apparently about sixty years of age, dressed
in the Turkish mode, excepting an old brown
cocked hat covered with grease, and put square
on his head. His beard might be of some seven
or eight day's growth, and his back was orna
mented with a plaited pig-tail reaching down to
his middle. We found it difficult to refrain from
laughing at the sight of so odd a figure, for his
dress was all soiled with the drippings of soup
and fat. He received us with a dignified reserve,
and uttering several " favoriscas," shewed us into
the apartment, which did the duties of the saloon.
This room was .filled with water-melons ; some
old English pictures decorated the walls, and an
old dirty sofa, without a covering, and well
stocked with fleas, constituted the furniture ;
numerous holes in the floor gave free access and
egress to the rats. In the evening, when supper
was announced, we were in hopes of something
good, and as we had not tasted any thing but an
early breakfast of dried fruit, we entered the room
with the appetite which riding usually creates; but
j udge of our disappointment when we fou nd nothing
but rice and cabbage, our host observing it was
" Giorno della Penitenza" (Saturday). We slept
in the saloon, and got unmercifully bitten by the
fleas. *1 Next day we received some scraps of
meat, but the old consul took care first to fill us

186 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IT,
so full of rice, that we could hardly find room for
the better part of his feast. Jaffa, situated on the
sea coast, is a small fortified • town ; the fortifi
cations were in a very ruinous state, but the Aga
wasA busily employed in repairing them. Vessels
were , arriving from <'the northward daily, with
stones, &c. and he < himself was in constant atten
dance on the operations. The Christian and
Mahomedan inhabitants were obliged to take it
day and day about, to work, at the sound of the
drum, every morning at sun-rise. We saw the
place where the French /.entered the town on
their advance into Syria, and the hospital
where Buonaparte poisoned his sick, on his
retreat, to prevent them falling into the hands
of the Turks. This place is now the Armenian
convent, and one of the priests, who was in
the itown at the time, says there were only
thirty-five men thus . poisoned. About a mile
without the town the French army was encamped,
and it was here that Napoleon inhumanly mas
sacred the inhabitants in cool blood, after the
town was fully in his possession. The number thus
slain is uncertain, but many people now in Jaffa
attest the truth of the assertion. Our camel-driver
being bound to Jerusalem, we sent our heaviest
and most useless baggage to that place by him,
and endeavoured to purchase horses to continue

LETTER II.] SYRIA. 1 87
our route in Syria. We had great difficulty
about this matter, and in consequence sent to
request the Aga would lend us a soldier to assist
us on the occasion, as old Damiani, the consul,
was of more harm than good in the business.
The Aga, however, very kindly and most posi
tively refused, saying, he would lend us govern
ment horses for nothing, as he had also done to
Colonel Stratton; he added, that an Englishman,
to whom he had granted the same favour, had
sent him a spy-glass three years after in return.
His motive may appear to have been interested,
but the following circumstance tends to prove
that he is a good man: our Maltese interpreter,
twenty-years ago, had been in a better situation of
life, and trading in a small way in cotton from
Syria, was acquainted with this Aga; on some
occasion he had given him a watch as a present;
they never again met till the other -day, when the
Maltese travelling as interpreter to Colonel
Stratton, was recognized, at Jaffa, by the Aga,
who, seeing him in reduced circumstances, forced
him to receive a sum of money, saying it was
now his turn to give a present. The Maltese,
who is an honest man, declined accepting the
cash, but the other persisted in presenting it to
him. ' This is one, amongst other instances we
have met of the disinterested generosity of the

1 88 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
higher class of Turks. As to Damiani we found
him of little assistance to us ; he advised us to
buy a blind horse at a higher price than Mr.
Bankes gave here for two sound ones. It was
this that occasioned our reference to the Aga,
whom we told, on his making us so generous
an offer, that we feared our journey would occupy
too much time for him to spare his cattle; he,
however, replied, that we might keep them as long
as we pleased. A neat little fountain, as you enter
this town, we thought merited attention. Jaffa
is the ancient Joppa: Hiram, king of Tyre, sent
Lebanon cedars by sea to Joppa, for the building
of Solomon's temple ; and the latter had them
removed by land to Jerusalem (see 2 Chronicles,
c. ii. v. 1 6). St. Peter's vision was near Joppa
(Acts, x.).
October 15. At nine A.M. we left Jaffa. We
had hitherto no^ slept in a house, or under any
cover since we departed from Cairo; as yet we
•had found no inconvenience from this ; but as we
were going to the northward, and the winter
was fast coming on, we thought it adviseable to
equip ourselves in a thick Arab suit, made of a
sort of coarse wool or sack-cloth; it was very
heavy, and at the same time very good ; it cost
ten piastres, little more than five shillings ; a pair
of coarse white Turkish breeches and red worsted

LETTER II. J SYRIA. 1 89
turban completed our costume. The sun in the
desert had browned us to a good standard colour,
which Tery well became our dress; we thus
avoided the curiosity of the natives, who used to
flock round to gaze at us as if we had been wild
beasts. For five piastres we purchased a woollen
mat to do duty as a bed; and thus furnished,
with four good hack horses under us, we felt
quite independent. In the provision line, we
always had a staple of bread, cheese, and onions,
which served for breakfast, dinner, and supper,
unless we were fortunate enough to meet with a
fowl. Our road led along the sea beach. We
shortly crossed the nahr El Petras. In the after
noon we passed through a wild but pretty
country, "and crossed the nahr Arsouf, leaving
the village of that name (the ancient Appollonlas)
on our left. The following morning we proceeded
very early, and crossing the nahr El Kasab arrived
at Cesarea (see the viiith. ixth. xth. and xith. chap
ters of. Acts). Here we stopped two hours ex
amining the antiquities. A small part of these are
inclosed within the ruins of an old wall and ditch,
which appeared to be Saracenic ; and on a pro
montory, which bounds this extremity on the
south side, are the remains of a large edifice,
constructed apparently upon the ruins of a
Roman temple ; immense pillars of granite

190 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
forming the foundation of the former, placed on
a bed of rocks. Here is a small bay of the coast,
on the north point of which, on the rocks, are also
placed many columns, apparently for the purpose of
a landing-place" for merchandise, &c. The Roman
remains extend far beyond the limits of the walls
before-mentioned, and to the north of them.
Above, and parrallel with the sea beach, are the
ruins of some arches and a wall, which appears to
lead to the side of the hills, which now begin to
approach closer to the sea than heretofore, and to
the nahr Zerka where the water is fresh ; this
circumstance, and the wells. of the town having
bad water, led us to suppose these arches to have
been once part of an aqueduct. There are also
wells on the promontory before described, but
they are now dry. Without the Saracenic walls, to
the south, we found a column of marble, with a Ro
man inscription of the Emperor Septimius Severus,
but too much buried for us to copy : Mr. Bankes
has since told us it is a mile-stone, as he had
it cleared for copying. ' About noon we arrived
at Tortura, the ancient Dora (see Judges, i.
27). There are extensive ruins here, but they
possess nothing of interest. We left this place at
two, and at four reached Athlite, where we re
mained for the night. Between Tortura and
Athlite are numerous quarries of stone cut out of

LETTER II.1 SYRIA. 191
i -J
the rock, of whieh the? hills are here formed;
The village of Athlite is situated on a promon
tory, nearly forming a peninsula; and apparentlyi
constructed from the- ruins; of a more ancient citys
It is of small extent, and would appear from its
elevated situation, and the old;walls which sur-,
round it, to have been a citadel, as there are the
ruins of two other walls without it; the 'other
incloses a square space, the farther or southern-most
end of i which juts into the sea. There are threfe
entrances through this wall, two on the east and*
one on the south side, and steps in various places'.
to ascend them. / The second wall approaches*
near to that of the citadel; but the outer oney
which we may suppose to have included the re
mainder of the ancient town, incloses ra . consi
derable space, of ground now uninhabited. There
is a small bay of the coast to the south of the
peninsula, .which may have' occasioned; the con
struction of a town en this site,! as it makes a
tolerable haven for small vessels. Within the
citadel the most interesting of the remains is a
part of a great building which we were puzzled!
to makeiout; sits form was originally ;a double*
hexagon; tithe half of the circumference, which1 is:
still . standings has - six sides. - On -the exterior,
below the cornice, in alto-relievo, are the heads of
different ^animals, the human with those of the

192 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
lion; — the ram and the sheep are particularly
distinguished. The exterior walls of this edifice
have a double line of arches in the Gothic style ;
the lower row larger than the upper one; the
architecture is light and elegant. There does not
appear to be any ancient name to this place, and
from all the information that we can obtain; the
ruins are no older than the time of the crusades,
.when the town went by the name of Castel
Pelegrino. From the commodiousness of the
bay, the extent of the quarries in the neigbour-
hood, the fine rich plains near it, though now
but partly cultivated, it would seem that this
place was formerly of much importance, and that
the neighbourhood, though now very thinly in
habited, was once populous.
October 17- At day-light, we departed
through the northernmost of the two passages
in the eastern wall ; here the rock has been cut
away to form the road, and various circum
stances combined, induced us to form an opinion
that Athlite is of much greater antiquity
than is represented. Passing by the part of the
coast formed by the foot of Mount Carmel, we
entered the bay of Acre, and in less than three
hours from Athlite we were at Caiffa (the ancient
Hepha) ; here we found the only friar at present
belonging to the convent of Mount Carmel, an

LETTER II.] SYRIA. 193
intelligent man (a Maltese), who, after supply
ing us with breakfast, attended us to the sum
mit of Carmel, where the convent is situated.
This building, now deserted, was formerly fitted
with windows, beds, and every accommodation ; it
was pillaged and destroyed by the Arabs after
the retreat of the French army from the siege of
Acre; the latter having used it as a hospital for
their sick and wounded, while their operations
were carrying on; and in the places where the
poor fellows were lain, the numbers still remain
by which they were arranged. The friar shewed
us a cave cut in the natural rock where the
prophet Elijah had his altar (see 1 Kings, xviii.
17, and following verses). In front of this are
the remains of a handsome church in the Gothic
style, built by the Empress Helena at the time she
made her pilgrimage to Jerusalem. Those objects
are in the upper part of the convent, which is of
a square form, inclosing an open court. From
Mount Carmel there is a beautiful view of the bay
of Acre, the mountains at the back, the Mediter
ranean, &c. Near the convent are some prostrate
columns; we found an immense scorpion here
amongst the rubbish; there is a well of excellent
water in the court of the convent. Mount
Carmel is of very inconsiderable height, and
now quite barren, though at the north-eastern
o

194 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
foot of it are some pretty olive yards. On men
tioning to the friar our suspicions of the ruins of
Athlite being partly Roman, he suggested the
idea that it might have been called Athla as the
present name Athlite resembles it much in sound.
Returned from Mount Carmel, and left Caiffa at
three in the afternoon, and following the coast of
the bay of Acre, shortly passed on over to the
right of the brook Kishon were Elijah slew the
worshippers of Baal after he had proved to them
the existence of the true supreme being, by the
miracle he had wrought on Mount Carmel. We
soon after crossed the mouth of the river Kishon,
and subsequently the river Belus ; we reached
Acre at sun-set, and were shown to the house of
Signor Malagamba the British agent. All the
rivulets we have hitherto passed in Syria, are
fordable, in the Autumn, close to their junction
with the sea, where the counteraction of the
streams of. the rivers, which are rapid, and the surf
of the sea, form sand-banks or bars ; the water is
generally fresh close to their junction with the
ocean. October 13. We found Signor Malagamba
more useful to us than Damiani; as he had no
room to lodge us in, we took up our quarters in
the convent, where we met with a most handsome
reception from the " Padre Superiore." We ate

LETTER II.] SYRIA. 195
our meals with the worthy consul, whose house
is in the same khan as the convent. Acre is a
strong fotified town. Since the French siege, in
1799, the Turks have doubled the walls which
inclose the town. We were shewn the breach
made by the French army, now entirely repaired,
except the spent shot holes. The situation of
Acre is delightful; the principal objects in the
town are the mosque, the pashaw's seraglio, the
granary, and the arsenal. A great religious
festival was solemnized by the Turks while we
were at Acre: the mosques were brilliantly
illuminated at night, and the next day we went
to see the pashaw's finest horses; they were
splendidly caparisoned with the most gaudy trap
pings of leopard's skins embroidered with gold and
silver. The animals themselves were ill made and
good for nothing, the whole being more for show
than use. Acre was the Accho of the Old Testa
ment, which, together with Achzib, Dor, Sidon, and
some other places of the sea-coast of Syria, were
never completely subdued by the Israelites (see
Judges, i. 31.) Gaza, Ekron, and Ascalon, further
to the southward, were subjugated (same chap.
v. 18). We here procured a firman from
the pashaw, having travelled thus far without
any authority from the Syrian governments. We
found this firman worded very strongly in our

196 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
favour; it was addressed to all the Agas in the
pashalic of Acre, and our horses were ordered to
be furnished with fodder, &c. free of expense
wherever we might go.
October 20. At one in the afternoon, we
quitted Acre, going over the plain of that
name. There was nothing remarkable to be
seen but the extensive aqueduct by which the
town is supplied with water. We stopped at
Zib, the ancient Achzib (see Old Testament,
Judges, i. 31); the inhabitants were dressed
for the Mahomedan feast, and crowded round us
with curiosity. All their sick came for medical
aid, but we had nothing to give them but the
balsam of Mecca, which had been so useful at
Ashdoud ; the shiekh's son amongst others had his
hand most terribly burnt, and he evinced much
gratitude for the assistance we rendered to him
and the rest of the villagers. He offered our in
terpreter a considerable sum of money, which the
other refused. A small medicine chest, with
Reece's or some other book on the subject, would
be a truly valuable article in the trunk of a tra
veller in these countries, and would be a sure
means of conciliating a stranger with the natives ;
it was by a judicious application of a trifling
knowledge of medicine, that Bruce made his way
so well in Abyssinia.

LETTER II. J SYRIA. \97
October 21. We were mounted and on our
route at daylight, and in about an hour's time
we reached and ascended Cape Blanco ; the de
scent on the north side, by its numerous windings,
reminded us of the mountain roads of Switzer
land, but these were not half so good as the very
worst European road we ever met ; the sea dash
ing against the rocks below us had a fine effect.
About three hours before we reached Tsour, the
ancient Tyre, we observed some ruins on a small
eminence on Our right ; we stopped to visit them,
and found they consisted of the remains of a large
,city, and the ruins of a temple in a most dilapi
dated state. Two columns, much defaced, are only
standing; in the lower part of the capital of
one we distinguished the Echinus moulding: the
whole has been composed of the natural stone of
the country, which is calcarious and very porous.
Beyond this town we distinctly traced the remains
of the great ancient paved way towards Tyre,
and afterwards we ascended what is called the
ladder of the Tyrians; it is a picturesque spot,
the road being cut in the side of the perpendicular
cliff on the sea shore, several hundred feet above
the level of the water. This, according to
Maundrell (page 52), was the work of Alexander
the Great. Descending hence into the place
below, we passed the rubbish of another ancient

198 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
city, and some picturesque rivulets, and arrived
at Tsour at one in the afternoon. Here we put
up at the house of an Arab who called himself a
Christian archbishop; he was not at home, and
at first his wife was unwilling to receive us, as
we were very roughly attired as Arabs; but our
conductor assuring her that we were persons
travelling for pleasure, she behaved to us with
great civility and attention. The establishment
was a very humble one, as might be expected in
so mean a place ; the prophecies of the fall of Tyre
in Isaiah, Jeremiah, and Ezekiel, seem to be
fulfilled in the present appearance of Tsour,
there being no vestige remaining of the ancient
city (so called from Tiras the son of Japheth)
but mere rubbish. The city, formerly built on
an island, is now on a peninsula ; the isthmus
which Alexander caused to be made for the pro
secution of his attack on the city, has now the
appearance of being the work of nature. The
port is much choaked up with mud, and the
walls and castle are visible, but I should strongly
suspect they are not the same which existed at
the time when Tyre was in its glory.
October 22. At sun-rise we proceeded on
our journey, seeing the remains of the ancient
aqueduct. In the morning we crossed the mouth
of the Kasmia ; the banks of this river are very

LETTER II.] SYRIA. 399
picturesque ; it proceeds from an extensive valley
between the mountains, and has pretty windings.
There is a bridge with one arch over it, a little
below which, it encloses a small island. We con
tinued our route through a country nearly barren,
very thinly populated, and very uninteresting, with
mountains on our right destitute of either beauty
or vegetation. We passed through the ruins of
five or six large cities, now mere rubbish, and
only distinguishable as sites of towns, by nume
rous stones much dilapidated, shewing marks of
having been cut square with the chisel, with mor-
ter adhering to them, and fragments of columns.
The only place marked in the map in this quarter
is the ancient Sarepta or Zarephath, remarkable
by the miracle wrought there by Elijah (see
i Kings, xvii. 9- and ensuing verses). In the
afternoon we crossed several dry torrents, and a
river by a bridge of five arches ; the banks of all
these streams contain quantities of wild-flowers,
amongst which is the oleander in full bloom and
beauty. As we approached Saida we observed
that the sides of the hills were covered with vine
yards, but they have not at all a lively appear
ance. Half an hour before we arrived, we passed
the ruins of another ancient city, also a fragment
of another granite column, and a Roman inscrip
tion in the time of Septimius Severus ; see Maun-

200 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
drell, who, as well as Mr. Bankes, copied it, and
found its purport to be like that near Cesarea —
a mile-stone. The immediate neighbourhood of
Saida (the ancient Sidon) is pretty ; it derived
its name from Sidon the first born of Canaan (see
Genesis, x. 15). The plain at the foot of the
hills is entirely appropriated to extensive and
shady groves and gardens, with narrow and pretty
lanes between them. There is no English con
sul or agent at Saida, we therefore went to the
convent but found no friars there, and the church
was shut up. The French consulate had entire
possession of all the apartments, either for them
selves or friends : the French consul himself was
on a tour to the Holy Land. We had seen him
at Acre ; he was then going to Nazareth, and
seemed to be a genteel person ; his wife was
with him. We had some difficulty in obtain
ing a room in this convent, but at last we got one
belonging to one of the absent servants. The
French vice-consul now came and visited us,
and shortly after retired. As we are now
come into the neighbourhood of Lady Hester
Stanhope, a few observations will be necessary.
As we were entrusted with a letter from Mr,
Salt, a packet of English letters from Acre, and
a book from Jaffa, we deemed it our duty to
wait on her, and therefore set out for her usual

LETTER II.] SYRIA. 201
residence, an old deserted convent in the moun
tain about one hour and half distance from Saida,
called Mar Elias Alza; but her ladyship was
removed on account of the heat to a more
elevated spot in the mountains, called Castle Jeba:
we therefore forwarded the letters, &c. together
with a note requesting her ladyship's permission
to wait on her. The following morning we re
ceived a letter, saying, that she had made her mind
up not to receive any more Englishmen, with
the exception of officers of the army and navy,
" all fine fellows," as she was pleased to express
herself; at the same time she strongly dissuaded
us from undertaking the trip to Palmyra, and
recommended us to make a short tour of fifteen
or twenty days round the vicinity of Saida, and
then to return and pass twenty days with her in
her convent. This, at the 'present season of the
year, with the winter, and rainy season fast ap
proaching, would have been the most impolitic
plan we could have pursued, and therefore we
returned a polite answer declining her civilities
with as good a grace as we could. She is always
dressed in the Turkish costume as a man ; her
generosity we heard spoken of in all directions.
Saida possesses as few relics of its ancient
magnificence as Tyre. The port, if ever it
was extensive, is now small and nearly filled up

202 . TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
with the accumulation of mud. The castle, con
nected to the main by a bridge, is an old building,
but the same remark which I made on the an
cient edificies at Tyre is applicable to those of
Sidon, viz. that they do not appear to be of
equal antiquity with that city in the time of its
splendour. October 25. At nine A. M. we left Saida over
a wretched rugged road, and an uninteresting
country; we met occasionally the remains of the
ancient paved way. In the afternoon we passed
the ruins of an ancient town and burial ground;
here are many stone sarcophagi, some never
opened; their lids are very high and massy, and
terminating in an angle. A little beyond them
are two arches in the mountain's side, the ruins
either of a bridge or an aqueduct. Shortly after,
we quitted the sea coast and passed over the hills
which form the promontory of Bayruth; here is a
fine view of the plain, covered with groves of
olives, and of several villages on the mountain's
side. Descending, we passed through plantations
of figs and young mulberries for the silk-worm,
and from thence through gardens neatly inclosed
by walls where we met occasionally with fragments
of antiquity. We entered Bayruth at dusk;
there is an ancient bath, with fragments of granite
columns, &c. within the town. Bayruth is the

LETTER II.J SYRIA. 203
ancient Beryfus; it was here that St. George
conquered the dragon, &c: it is a fine situation,
and like all the other towns of Syria that we
have seen, has pretty environs on account of the
rich gardens, &c. at the back of it; but these
beauties are always confined to particular spots,
for an hour's ride usually conducts you again into
an uninteresting and rocky country. There is a
fine view of the sea from the marina, and the
jetty is built on foundations of ancient granite
columns. At Bayruth we were at the house of
Mr. Laurella, the English agent, a very good
fellow. October 26. At two in the afternoon we left
Bayruth, the road being for a short time very
pretty, with gardens on each side of us. We
soon crossed the nahr El-Sazib previously joined
by the nanr El-Leban* or River of Milk, from its
foaming when overcharged with water. It is a
pretty rivulet; the bridge has six arches. From
hence the road led along the sea beach until we
came to a rocky promontory whose ascent re
minded us of the ladder of the Tyrians, though
it is neither so high or picturesque ; on reaching
the summit, we saw below us on the other side
the nahr El-Kelb, or River of the Dog, running
beautifully through a deep chasm in the moun
tains, and a very neat bridge over it* which

204 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
Maundrell describes as being a bow-shot from
the sea. The banks are planted with vines and
mulberries. There is a Roman inscription on
a tablet carved out of the rock on the side of
the road we descended; this was copied by
Maundrell one hundred and twenty years ago,
and appears to record the construction of the
passage by the Emperor Antoninus. Near the
bridge is , also another inscription in the
Arabic language. We passed the night at the
mouth of the river; at daylight the following
morning we moved, going along the sea-shore,
and in an hour's time ascended a rocky point of
a small bay inhabited by fishermen. At the
foot of this promontory, close to the sea, are the
remains of a chapel cut out of the rock, which we
were informed was the sepulchre of St. George
(see the note on Bayruth). The old fishermen,
whose cottage is situated on the promontory
above the chapel, were so superstitious as to
believe, and endeavoured to persuade us, that
the water of the sea near this spot is a cure for
all distempers, and that numerous people came
hither for the purpose of being healed by them.
We had here a good view of the grand convents
of Harissa Soummaar, romantically situated on
the summit of the mountain. The valley at the
end of this bay is cultivated and studded with

LETTER II.] SYRIA. 205
cottages. Proceeding along the sea beach we
passed a Roman arch constructed with large
stones over a dry torrent ;' from hence the road
led over rugged rocks, till we came to the bridge
over \he nahr Ibrahim, the ancient Adonis. The
bridge is of a single arch, and handsome, and
the river, like the nahr El-Kelb, proceeds from a
deep chasm between the mountains, but the
level land near the bridge is more extensive than
that of nahr El-Kelb. We now proceeded by the
sea-coast to Gebail. On our way we crossed
over one of those natural bridges, over a torrent
now dry, spoken of by Volney, who describes
them thus : " In many places the water meeting
with inclined beds, has undermined the inter
mediate earth, and formed caverns," or natural
arches. We reached Gebail, or Gibyle, at two
in the afternoon, and stopped at the convent of
Maronites, a poor miserable set of people who
make a merit of never eating meat, &c. At
Gebail, without the town, there are many Roman
ruins, and a bridge with many granite columns ;
within, the modern edifices are, in some instances,
constructed upon ancient foundations, particularly
the castle, and there is another ruin near the sea
shore. The Roman name of Gebail is marked in
the map, as Byblus ; but in Ezekiel, xxvii. 9. it is
called Gebal, and is mentioned as furnishing the
fleets of Tyre with caulkers.

206 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IL
October 28. We went from Gebail to
Tripoli, which we did not reach till dusk, though
we started at daylight. We saw nothing, of
interest except what appeared to have been a
Roman temple, and we passed over a very
rugged and bad road until we passed Batroun, the
ancient Botrys. Here the road turned to the
right through a fine valley between the moun
tains, in which we noticed an old castle standing
on a high rock ; it is called Temseida, and may
have been constructed to defend this pass ; we
thought it a picturesque object. The hills on
the south of the vale are covered with shrubs,
and by the road's side are plantations of mul
berries, vines, &c. A small river, which we
occasionally crossed by bridges, takes its winding
course through the valley. Leaving the valley,
we passed to the north over the mountains by
rugged paths, bordered by the myrtle and other
wild shrubs, until we again joined the coast.
When about an hour's distance from Tripoli, we
passed through some very rich inclosed gardens.
At sun-set we arrived, and not being aware that
there was an English consul in the town, took up
our quarters in the convent, with Padra Herme-
nigildo. Tripoli is the neatest town we had seen
in Syria, the houses being all well built of stone,
and neatly constructed within. It is seated at

LETTER II. J SYRIA. 207
the foot of the mountains, at some distance from
the sea-shore, and is surrounded by luxuriant
gardens, producing innumerable oranges and
lemons. The town , is commanded by two old
castles on the heights at the back of it, built in
the time of the crusades. The port, an in
different one, is near an hour's distance, on a
low point of the sea-coast; there is a village
there, but the anchorage is open, being only a
little sheltered by the Pigeon Islands. -Maun
drell (quoting Strabo) says that here were
anciently three cities; one subject to Aradus, a
second to Tyre, and the third to Sidon, which is
the origin of the name of Tripoli ; there are
other square towers, apparently of the time of the
crusades, all the way from the port towards
Tripoli. On the second day of our arrival we
received a message from the English consul,
expressive of his regret that we had not come
to his house ; we immediately waited on him,
and explained the circumstance to his satis
faction. He was a fine old man, nearly eighty
years of age, and well remembered Bruce, who
stayed some days at his house ; we were quite
delighted with the affable and sensible conver
sation of this good man.
On Thursday, at four in the morning, we left
Tripoli, for the purpose of visiting the cedars of

208 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
Lebanon and Baalbec. Signor Giuseppe Mazo-
liere, the son of a late French merchant of that
name, whose son is the sheikh • of the village of
Eden, accompanied us, at the request of the
padre of the convent. The ascent from Tripoli is
gradual ; the first object of interest is the
aqueduct and bridge over the nahr Kavdas, or
Abouli river. These structures are overgrown
with bushes and weeds, and the river runs in a
picturesque manner under them in two channels.
Leaving this place, the road is good, through
cultivated plains and groves of olives, passing
occasionally beautiful vallies watered by branches
of the river. Afterwards the road becomes very
rugged, steep, and irregular, the whole way to
the village of Eden, passing between two con
spicuous points of the mountain. Eden is
delightfully situated, by the side of a most rich
and highly cultivated valley. It contains between
four and five hundred families, who on the
approach of winter descend to another village
only an hour's distance from Tripoli ; the families
were in the act of removing to their winter habi
tations when we arrived ; and on our return from
Baalbec, all those who had not previously quitted
their summer quarters descended with us. They
have an Arab catholic bishop, a church, and
several priests ; there is another village, probably

LETTER II.] SYRIA. 209
in the same diocese, lower down in the vale.
We arrived at Eden about two o'clock, which,
including stoppages, makes it ten hours from
Tripoli. Early on Friday morning, we set out by moon
light for the cedars, and arrived a little after
daylight. The ascent from Eden to the cedars
is but little; the distance, allowing for the
windings of the road, which is very rugged, and
passes over occasional hill and dale, may be about
five miles. On the right, higher up the mountain,
is a larger and deeper vale than that of Eden,
with the village of Beshiri in the bottom; this
valley is very rich and picturesque. It is sur
rounded by lofty mountains, and is watered by a
winding stream. It reminded us of the vale of
the Dive in Savoy, and its " Pont de Chevres."
The famous cedars of Lebanon are situated on a
small eminence, in a valley at the foot of the highest
part of the mountain ; the land on the mountain's
side has a sterile aspect, and the trees are remark
able by being altogether in one clump ; from this
spot the cedars are the only trees to be seen in
Lebanon. There may be about fifty of them, but
their present appearance ill corresponds with the
character given of them in scripture. There did
not appear to be one tree amongst the whole
which had much merit, either for dimensions or

210 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
beauty ; the largest amongst them would appear
to be the junction of four or five trunks into one
tree; according to Maundrell this is twelve yards
in girt; but we are much more inclined to agree
with Volney than with Maundrell, in the descrip
tion which these travellers have respectively given
of the cedars of Lebanon. ^.Numerous names.
carved on the trunk of the greater trees, some of
which are as far back as 1.640, bear testimony, to
the curiosity of individuals to visit this interesting,
spot, which is nearly, surrounded by the. barren
chain of Lebanon, in the form of an. amphitheatre
of about thirty, miles circuit, the opening , being
towards the sea. We thought the fout ensemble
more represented the Apennines at the back of
Genoa, than any other mountain scenery we had
witnessed. Mount Lebanon and its cedars are so
frequently alluded to in scripture, that it would
be almost an endless and useless task to make:
extracts; but it appears to us that they are no
where so remarkably, noticed, as in the glory and
fall of Assyria, in the xxxi. of Ezekiel; in the
1 6th verse you will observe, "All the trees of Eden,
the choice and best, of Lebanon," which would
seem to .infer that the boasted cedars were always
near the same place in which the few remaining.
ones now are, as they are not more than, five,
miles distant from the modern village of Eden.

LETTER II.J SYRIA. '. 211
In a former part of my letter, relating to Joppa,
I mentioned that the cedar of Lebanon was used
in the construction of Solomon's temple ; in the
2nd Chronicles, ii. 8. are the words, " Send me
also cedar-trees, fir-trees, and algum-trees, out
of Lebanon," which clearly implies, that quanti
ties of not only cedars formerly grew on this
mountain, but also that other kinds of wood were
found there, which now are no more to be met with,
unless the walnut-tree of the present day, which
is in very high perfection at Eden, is the algum-
tree of the ancients. In the first book of Kings,
chap. vi. and vii. describing Solomon's temple, it
also appears that much cedar was used in this
edifice. With respect to the village of Eden, this
also appears to be the same with the garden of
God, so called throughout the whole of the
xxxi. chap, of Ezekiel, particularly in the 8th and
9th verse ; but by reference to Genesis ii. verse 8,
the position of the garden of God, in Eden, where
Adam and Eve were placed, seems very uncertain,
for from the 10th to the 14th verses you observe,
" A' river went out of Eden to Water the garden,
and from thence it was parted and became into four
heads :" the river of Ethiopia (the Nile) appears
to be one Of the four, and the Euphrates another.
Maundrell makes no extracts from scripture
concerning Lebanon ; I dare say, because he

212 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II,
thought it would be useless, as it is mentioned
in so many different places. Volney is also silent
on the subject, I mean as far as respects quota
tions. Eden is called Aden by the natives at this
day; but to proceed: — We here hired a guide to
conduct us over Lebanon into the valley of Bekaa
Mathooalis, in which Baalbec is situated. Leaving
the cedars abont an hour after sun-rise, we as
cended to the crest of Lebanon, where we had an
extensive view over the hills at its S. E. foot into
the valley, with Baalbec in .the distance; we
beheld also to the westward the sea for a considera
ble distance. Altogether it was not a bad view,
but certainly not deserving the commendations
which Volney bestows on if. Lebanon, it appears
in the Syriac language, signifies white, which
this/ mountain is, both in summer and winter ; in
the former season, on account of the natural
colour of the barren rock, and in the latter by
reason of the snow.
The valley of Baalbec, or of the Kasmia, or
Bekaa Mathooalis, has an excessively rich soil, but
it is put to little advantage, being very partially
cultivated, and having no trees except in the im
mediate neighbourhood of Baalbec itself, which
are chiefly the fig and the walnut. The valley is
bounded on the N. W. side by Lebanon, and on its
S. E. by Anti-Lebanon; its breadth may be about

LETTER II. J SYRIA. 213
ten miles, while its length from N. E. to S. W.
extends as far as the eye can reach. The Kasmia
has its source to the north of Baalbec (see Vol
ney), and running through the plain, discharges
itself into the sea a little to the north of Tyre.
How deplorable that so luxuriant a spot, with a
fine loamy soil, should lay waste and desolate !
and what ideas of former wealth and magnificence
do the splendid ruins of Baalbec call to the mind.
The inhabitants of the mountain are nearly all of
the church of Rome ; but those of the Bekaa
Mathooalis are a particular sect of Mahonledans,
differing from the Turks in general; they are
more hostile to the Christians than any of the
natives of Syria ; but to return : — In descending
from the summit of Lebanon the road was exces
sively steep and rugged j we dismounted and
walked our horses down it ; the sides of the moun
tain abound in partridges, all red-legged, and other
game. At the S. E. foot of this part of Lebanon
is the source of a fine clear rivulet, which finally
unites with the Kasmia. From hence we pro
ceeded over some rugged hills covered with
shrubs ; ' a species of oak, the myrtle, and the
almond-tree, are all remarkable. Mr. Mazo-
liere told us they have a tradition that there
were formerly gardens here,1 and the al
mond and pear-trees seem to confirm the idea.

214 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
Crossing these hills, you come, near the plain, to
the first village, after leaving the cedars. Late
in. the evening we arrived at Yead, a village about
an hour's distance from Baalbec ; the. horses
having been on route from two o'clock in the
morning, without any food, about fifteen hours,
which Caused us to blame our guide much, as
vr& might have brought fodder with us from
Aden, had we known how uninhabited the coun
try was through which we had to pass. But the
guide seemed intent only on his own interest, and
when we, hearing of the distance to Baalbec from.
the cedars, threatened to return to Tripoli, on
account of the horses, he, fearing to lose his
money for the trip, declared there were several
villages in the way where we could refresh the
animals. November 1. Early this morning we arrived
at Baalbec, and employed the whole day in visit
ing the antiquities ; the preceding day had been
excessively fine, the sky being so clear that scarce
a cloud was to be seen, but on Saturday evening
they collected much on Lebanon and the tops of
the other hills, and the natives announced to us
the approach of bad weather. We took dimen-
sions and made remarks of every thing at Baal
bec, but as Wood, and Dawkins in particular, as
well as Volney, have given correct descriptions,

LETTER. II. J SYRIA. 215
illustrated with plates, it would be superfluous
here to enter into minute detail. I cannot help,
however, making a few observations on one rnass
of ruins, the imposing grandeur ,of which partir
cularjy struck us. I allude to that remnant of a
colonnade where there are six columns standing;
the beauty and elegance of these pillars are sur
prising ; their diameter is seven feet, and we esti
mated their altitude at between fifty and sixty feet,
exclusive of the epistylia which is twenty feet deep,
and composed of immense blocks of stone, in two
layers of ten feet each in depth. The whole of this
is most elaborately Ornamented with rich carved
work in various devices. We imagine these pillars
to have been the remains of an avenue of twenty
columns on each side, forming an approach to the
temple. The space originally included by these
pillars was one hundred and four paces long, by
fifty-eight broad. We were much pleased with the
architecture and sculpture throughout, though
now much disfigured by the ruins having been
once , converted into a fortress. There are re
markably large stones used in the building of the
various edifices, and in the S- W. part of the
elevated walls on which they stand, we measured
a single stone of sixty-six feet in length, and
twelve in breadth and thickness. The whole of
these buildings, together with the walls, are of

216 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
coarse marble, excessively hard. In the construc
tion of the pyramids and temples in Egypt, we
never noticed a single stone of more than thirty
feet in length, and these .were most of calcarious
or sand stone, excepting some few of granite. The
inhabitants of Baalbec, although much prejudiced
against Christians, were to us quiet and well dis
posed, and seemed less curious and inquisitive
than the natives living near any antiquities we
had visited. We left Baalbec on our return on
Sunday at mid-day, but the afternoon turning out
very rainy, we stopped for the night at a small
village beyond the opposite side of the plain. We
observed, when it cleared away in the evening
that considerable quantities of snow had fallen on
the mountains, which may give some idea of the
vast height of Lebanon ; and as a farther proof,
when we crossed the mountain the preceding
Friday, we found several patches of last year's
snow, which, though melted, on the general sur
face of the mountain, still remains in some places,
near the summit, throughout the year ("), though
the weather was perfectly clear, with the sun
shining all the time, and the heat was oppres
sive. November 3. Monday, the morning was foggy
but calm, and the sun breaking out with force at
times, we hoped the haze would clear away and

LETTER II. J SYRIA. 217
that we should have fine weather ; we accordingly
proceeded on our return to Tripoli, but had not
gone far when we met some peasants returning
to their village, after having made an ineffectual
attempt to cross Lebanon, where they said we
should meet with very bad weather, and much
snow. In fact, the N. E. wind began shortly to
blow with violence and excessively cold, with such
heavy showers of sleet, snow, and rain, that we
were obliged to take shelter in a cave at the foot
of the mountain for the whole day. We found
here many peasants, who had made ineffectual
attempts to cross, but as we had a difficulty in
getting room for our horses, the cave being small
and nearly filled before we arrived, we removed
to a larger though more exposed one, being little
more than a projecting cleft of the rock, where
we got ourselves and our horses also under a
roof, and made' a large fire for the night (14).
The next morning being fine we began to ascend ;
the peasants with their cattle were unwilling to
make the first trial, as they knew it would be
difficult to find the road on account of the depth
of snow ; at the same time they were aware that
the second party could always profit by the traces of
the first. We met with no difficulty until we came
nearly to the top, when losing the road, the snow
being very deep, and the sides- of the mountain

218 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
steep, our horses all fell with us, and were partly
buried ; being obliged to dismount, we had con
siderable trouble in f reaching the summit : the
cold was excessive, and having on loose linen
Turkish breeches, and shoes without any stockr
ings, we felt it severely: In descending the op
posite side, the snow was also very deep, and we
found it adviseable to push on lest we should be
caught in a fog, which the appearance of the
weather seemed to threaten; we reached Eden in
safety about two in the afternoon ; the weather
had again set in thick and hazy ; shortly after
we began to descend. We were informed at
Eden that the bishop had. publicly offered up
prayers for our safety, and that people are pro
hibited from crossing Lebanon after the first of
November; but I much doubt the truth of the
latter assertion ; none of us received any injury
by the weather except Mr. Mazohere's servant,
whose legs were much chapped and cracked by
the cold, he having never been in the snow before.
On Wednesday, November 5, with fine weather,
we returned to Tripoli ; the natives of Aden with
their wives, children, and baggage* descending at
the same time ; the first part of the descent was in
some places so steep and difficult, that we observed
the peasants held on by the tails of their horses
to prevent them from falling. On our arrival at

LETTER II.] SYRIA. 2 19
Tripoli, we understood that they also had expe
rienced very bad weather on the coast. Young
Mazoliere was very .civil, he: supplied us with
accommodation, and an excellent supper the first
time we stopped at Aden ; but on our return, his
relations had retired from the place. We got
delightful wine there ; that of Lebanon has
always been esteemed, even in the time of the
Bible (see Hosea, xiv. 7). We were treated
with the greatest kindness by the Padre Herme-
nigildo, and we dined one day with the consul,
when we found that Mr. Bankes had sent his trunk
there from Cyprus, previous to his own arrival.
Wet weather detained us at Tripoli until the
afternoon of the ninth of November, when we
went as far as the. nahr El-Bered, or Cold River,
We passed the night in a . khan, a place appror
priated to the use of travellers, which Maundrell
very well describes in the first and second pages of
his book. The map places here a village named
Orthosa, the site of the ancient Orthosia, but
there is nothing now about the nahr El-Bered but
the khan above alluded to. There is a difficulty,
in some instances, to distinguish Roman ruins
from these khans, as both the Romans and the
Turks seem alike partial to the mode of building
with arches. The next day we went as far as

220 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II,
Tortosa, nearly opposite the island of Ruad,
where stood- the famous city of Aradus. There
are Roman remains at each of these places ; the
walls of Tortosa are constructed on the ancient
foundation cut in the rock, and the remains of the
castle after you enter the gates are ancient. There
are also some old sepulchral caves by the road side;
they serve to shew that the Romans, as well as the
Egyptians, had burial places of this description ;
but the difference of climate between this country
and Egypt has destroyed all remains of stucco
or painting, if ever they were thus decorated,
which we have reason to believe they were, as Mr.
Bankes told us he saw a Roman cave with fresco
painting in it near Saida. The island of Ruad,
according to Maundrell, is the Arvad, Arpad, or
Arphad in scripture (see Ezekiel, xxvii. Jere
miah, xlix. Isaiah, x. 2 Kings, xviii. and xix.
and Genesis, x.). In the first of these, it appears
that Arvad and Sidon supplied the fleets of Tyre
with seamen.
November 11. We went as far as the nahr
El-Mulk, which having crossed by a bridge, we
stopped for the night at a village about half an
hour's distance from- the river, the huts of which
appeared to be temporary habitations, being con
structed of reeds and straw, there are Roman

LETTER II.] SYRIA. 22 1
ruins at the mouth of the nahr El-Mulk. We
had hitherto been always in the habit of sleeping
in the open air, when we arrived at an Arab
village in the night; but now, the month of
November being far advanced, we wished to
discontinue the practice, and accordingly asked
for shelter, which was refused, unless eadh of us
four would consent to sleep in a separate habi
tation. This we knew was the place were
Monsr. Boutin, the French traveller, was killed,
and not being pleased with this mode of v pro
ceeding, the natives assuring us that they could
not find room for all four in one hut, we
bivouacked in the open air as usual, the night
being fine and clear. The following morning
we found, close to where we slept; an empty
uninhabited hut, which appeared to have done
duty as a barn ; our heads were against one end
of it, and had they any civility, they might have
offered it to us. In the night a man came to
endeavour to persuade us not to lie where we
were, saying, that the wolves would destroy us;
we, however, had more apprehension of the two-
legged wolves stealing some of our things, and
told our informer we had our fire arms ready, and
should keep a good look out for these animals.
In the morning our bread and part of a ham

222 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
which Padre Hermenigildo had given us were
missing, but we suspected the dogs, with which
all Arab villages abound, had taken our meat*
for pork is an abomination to the Turks.
November 12. In the afternoon we reached
Latachia. Two hours from where we slept is
Jebilee, the ancient Gabala; where are Roman
ruins, the principal of which is the remains of
a fine theatre at the north side of the town.
The whole journey from Tripoli, with one ex
ception in the neighbourhood of Markab, a
village inclosed in ancient fortifications, and
seated on the top of a square mountain, near
which the coast is rocky, is along a vast rich
plain at the foot of the Ansanar mountains,
which are of no considerable height, and are
said to be inhabited by Pagan tribes; the plain
is watered by many rivers, and there are also
several torrents now dry. These rivers are
generally pretty, their banks are covered with
myrtle, oleander, wild vine, fig, &c. Though
the soil is rich it is very partially cultivated
and thinly peopled; the principal produce near
Jebilee is cotton, which the natives were gathering
in as we passed. The city of Latahcia was
founded by Seleucus Nicator, under the name of
Laodicea, in honour of his mother ; he also

LETTER II.] SYRIA. 223'
founded three other cities in this neighbourhood,
viz. Selucia, now Suadeah; Antioch; and, Apa-
meiar now Famiah. Latachia is- seated- on the
N. W. side of . Cape Ziaret, an elevated, pro
jection of the coast; in the neighbourhood are
gardens planted with olives, figs, &c. in the
manner- of all the towns of Syria. The port,
which is half an hour's distance from the town, is
very small, but it is better sheltered- than any
we have seen on this coast. There is a fine old
castle projecting into the sea at. the point of a
bed- of rocks; the Marina is built upon founda-
, tions of ancient columns. There are, in the tow^i of
Latachia, an old gate-way and other antiquities;
there are also sepulchral caves in the neighbourhood*
but as they have no paintings, we did not think it
worth while to visit them* Mount Lebanon was in
sight the whole way from Tripoli, and was the
only mountain on which we could see snow;
Mount Cassius , was before .us. The Christian
natives of Latachia and of all the pashalic of
Aleppo to ^the north of : Latacha, are mostly of'
the Greek church, speaking the Arabic language;
but I must .refer you to v. Volney for a general
description of the different tribes and religious'
sects that inhabit Syria; as he deals largely and
scientifically on the subject. We lodged^at the

224 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
hpuse of the English agent, Signor Moses Elias,
a very excellent man. We were detained here
till the fifteenth, by the intrigues of the Arab
conductor, who affected to be unwell, and who
had previously at Acre, Bayruth, and other
places, tried all in his power to oblige us to send
him and the horses back to Jaffa, thus occasion
ing us a good deal of trouble and inconvenience.
November 16. We went as far as the village
of Candele ; the road was along a fine plain until
we came near it, when crossing some hills we
descended into the valley of that name. The
village is seated amongst the sand hills to the
west of the vale, and we had some difficulty in
finding it. The next day we were continually
passing over hills richly wooded, with numerous
narrow intricate roads, which occasioned us to
lose our way several times, by which means we
lost so much time, that the night had set in,
without our finding the village of Lourdee,
whither we were bound; and we were on the
point of giving up the search, and bivouacking
in the wood, when luckily some dogs barking, in
dicated to us the vicinity of the place, which is in
an elevated situation, and immediately by the side
of the highest pinnacle of Mount Cassius, in the
middle of a plain.

LETTER II.J SYRIA. 225
November ] 8. We were employed in descending
the north side of these mountains, the scenery
still continuing woody and wild; we this day also
lost our way several times. In the afternoon we
reached the banks of the Orontes, at the place
where commences the picturesque part of the
river, and, immediately below the spot where the
chart was marked, the site of the " city and
groves of Daphne." Mr. Barker has visited the
site, and from him we learn that there are still
to be seen the grand sources of water which com
posed the celebrated fountain. In some instances,
Mr. B. says, the water boils up as thick as a man's
body, and that jet tfeaux might be made here of
that thickness, of upwards of fifty feet high. We
now began to follow the banks of the river, and
were astonished at the beauty of the scenery, far
surpassing any thing we expected to see in Syria,
and, indeed, any thing we had witnessed even
in Switzerland, though we walked nine hundred
miles in that country, and saw most of its
beauty. The river, from the time we began
to trace its banks, ran continually between two
high hills, winding and turning incessantly ; at
times the road led along precipices in the rocks,
looking down perpendicularly on the river. The
luxuriant variety of foliage was prodigious, and
the rich green myrtle, which was very plentiful,
Q

226 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
contrasted ^with the colour of the road, the soil of
which was a dark-red gravel, made us imagine
we were riding through pleasure-grounds. The
laurel, laurestinus, bay-tree, fig-tree, .wild vine,
plane-tree, English sycamore, arbutus, both com
mon and andrachne, dwarf oak, &c. were scat
tered in all directions. At times the road was
overhung with rocks, covered with ivy ; the
mouths of caverns also presented themselves, and
gave a wildness to the scene ; and the perpen
dicular cliffs jutted into the river upwards of three
hundred feet high, forming corners round which
the waters ran in a most romantic manner; and
on one occasion the road wound round a deep

bay thus z^^J^pS^ so that on perceiving our
selves immediately opposite the spot we had so
recently passed, it appeared that we had crossed
the river. We descended at times into plains
cultivated with mulberry plantations and vines,
and prettily studded with picturesque cottages.
The occasional shallows of the river keeping up a
perpetual roaring, completed the beauty of this
delightful scene, which lasted about two hours,
when we entered the plain of Suadeah, where the
river becomes of a greater breadth, and runs in as
straight a line as a canal. By the time we en
tered the plain it had become moon-fight, and

LETTER Il.J SYRIA. 227
we had difficulty in finding Suadeah. A peasant
at last shewed us a place where the river is fordable
just up to the horses bellies, for there is no bridge.
We found Suadeah to be a straggling village, con
sisting of unconnected cottages, situated in a plain
chiefly inclosed with mulberry and lemon planta
tions. We put up at a.house appropriated for the
use of travellers in general, and which we found
the best place we have yet met with. The soubash
of the place, a sort of petty governour, was in the
house, and treated us with wonderful civility, or
dering us a good supper, feeding our horses, and
in the morning he refused to let us pay a para;
and whatever may be the generally received
character of the Turks, we have always met from
them the greatest civility and attention. All he
asked for was a little gunpowder ; we gave him a
little, but had unfortunately given nearly all our
stock to young Mazoliere at Tripoli.
November 19- In the morning we pursued
our journey towards Antiocn, being in a hurry,
and understanding that the ruins of the ancient
Seleucia, which are near the sea, (Suadeah being
half an hour's distance from it) possess no particu
lar interest. The weather turned out very wet this
day, and after we had been on route about three
hours, being two hours' distance, from Antioch, we
perceived some cottages, and being thoroughly wet,

228 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
through baggage and all, we requested shelter.
The two first cottages had only women in them,
whose husbands being absent, they did not dare
receive 11s ; at the third we went to, the men were
willing to admit us, but the women would not
hear of it, and expressed their refusal in a violent
and ill-natured manner ; during the time we were
soliciting a shelter, was it only in a cow-Kouse,
the rain was pouring in torrents, and we making
a pitiable appearance, being perfectly soaked. See
ing no intreaty could succeed, we gave them the
kat-ack-harack, the Arab expression of thanks,
an tried another cottage, where we were ad
mitted without the least hesitation. These cot
tages are long buildings of a single room; the
cattle occupy one end, and human inhabitants the
other. They have extensive plantations of young
mulberries for the silk-worms, and looms for
manufacturing their produce. The occupants
of the hut, who consisted of the proprietor, his
mother, wife, brother, and children, were of that
tribe of Mahomedans which Volney designates as
Turkmen ; they were uncommonly kind, placing
us near a large fire, giving us good beds and
coverlids, and making us join them in a humble
supper of doura and wheat boiled. It rained a
great deal the whole night, and we were detained
till noon on the following day, when we pro-

LETTER U.J SYRIA.. 229
ceeded, to Antioch, giving these people eleven
piastres, and a double gold Napolean, value forty-
four piastres, as an ornament for the wife, be
sides paying for the horses, corn, &c. The wo
men in this country ornament themselves with
money according to their circumstances ; the
poorer class with paras, and the higher orders
with sequins of eleven piastres each, and gold
roubees of two and a half each. We gave this
present as much to reward the goodness of our
host and his wife, as to make the ladies in the
other cottage vexed and ashamed of themselves.
We also thought that a few piastres thus dis
posed of might benefit other travellers coming
after us, and who might find themselves in the
same predicament. Antioch is beautifully situated
on the left bank of the Orontes, at the foot of a
hill ; there is a good-looking bridge over the
river, and some of the heights are picturesque.
The present town, which is a miserable one, does
not occupy more than one-eighth part of the
space included by the old walls, which have a
fine, venerable appearance, having square towers
every hundred yards, with occasional turrets
for looking out; these are the works of the
Roman and Greek emperors. Antioch is said
to have contained between eight and nine
hundred thousand inhabitants. The plain of

230 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
Antioch is considerably elevated above that of
Suadeah. We were concerned to find ourselves
at Antioch without having visited the ruins of
the city and groves of Daphne, but this was im
possible without a guide, and there was no pro
curing one. The houses of Antioch, Suadeah'
Lourdee, and their neighbourhood, are roofed and
\\tiled, Without terraces, differing in that respect
from most of the towns of Syria. There are
many sepulchral caves in the side of the hill at the
back of Antioch. This town is celebrated in the
Acts of the Apostles, xiii. " Paul and Barnabas
embark at Seleucia (the present Suadeah, and the
port of Antioch) for Cyprus ;" at Antioch we were
lodged in a khan.
November 22. We went as far as Gesir
Adid, four hours' distance, near a bridge over the
Orontes. Our road was through a barren plain,
bounded to the north by mountains, with a view of
the lake called Aggi Dengis at their foot. Rain
prevehted our leaving this place till noon on the
following' day, when we went as far as a place
called Bourkee, the site of a Roman town of con
siderable dimensions ; the ancient sepulchral caves
of which are cut in the side of the mountains, and
serve the present natives for their habitations.
We took up our abode in an old, deserted mill, in
ruins, and which a small rivulet had served to turn.

LETTER II.J SYRIA. 231
November 23. We passed over some rocky
hills into the plain of Alaks, supposed to be that
in which Aurelian conquered Zenobia. We
passed many sites of ancient towns, castles, tanks,
temples, &c. all of the lower empire, and very un
interesting; on one occasion we counted eleven
sites in a rich plain, with a fine loamy soil,
now left desolate and uninhabited. So much
for the Turkish government, and their mode of
encouraging agriculture, the arts, &c! The east
ern part, however, of the plain of Alaks, which
is nearest Aleppo, has a few villages, the inha
bitants of which, in considerable numbers, were
collecting their cotton as we passed them. We
stopped at Tourneen, the easternmost of the vil
lages above alluded to.
November 25. About three in the afternoon
we arrived at Aleppo, passing through an open
country, with a thin surface of soil, well
tilled in most parts, but destitute of trees or
variety, as indeed is the case all the way from
Antioch. We had been recommended by our
departed friend and adviser Sheikh Ibrahim, to
take the route to the northward of Aggi Dengis,
as it would have conducted us to the mountains
and ruins of St. Simon, which, however, are all of
the lower empire, and, as we have since learnt,

232 TRAVELS IN {[LETTER If.
totally uninteresting, being very like those we
saw by the road we went. We have further
reason to rejoice in having taken the road we did,
as the Curds who inhabit the mountains were
in rebellion against the pashaw, who had sent a
military force to quell them shortly before our
arrival ; we have since heard that the chiefs
escaped, but example has been made by the
death of about twenty of the prisoners, some of
whom, I am sorry to say, are supposed to have
been innocent. The pashaw hearing this, is said
to have been much affected, and recalled his
troops, sayjng, that as the chiefs had escaped, and
the natives had submitted, he did not wish the „
business to be carried any farther.
On arriving at Mr. Barker's, the consul general,
we found Mr. Bankes there, and were glad of
the opportunity of meeting this celebrated and
indefatigable traveller; he was on his way to
revisit Egypt and Nubia, having some idea of
penetrating from the second cataract into Abys
sinia. We mutually gave each other all the
information we possessed ; Mr. B. on Asia Minor
and Greece, and we on Egypt and Nubia, He
paid us the compliment to say he wished he
could contrive that we might travel together, as
he heard we were the only travellers he had met

LETTER II. J SYRIA. 233
that go after his method. We found him a most
sensible and entertaining person ; he has now
been five years on his travels.
December 22. We still remain waiting for
the arrival of the Sukne caravan, which brings
kali from that place to Aleppo, from which it is
five days' distance, and Palmyra is two more days'
off. The kindness we have experienced in this
hospitable mansion, merits our sincere gratitude.
I fear we shall be a little spoiled when we turn out
for Palmyra in a new Arab costume ; for here,
independent of the society of Mr. B. and his
amiable family, we have had every comfort and
luxury we could imagine. Our amusements have
varied in the most delightful manner, sometimes
we went out shooting, the gardens near Aleppo
abounding in woodcocks, &c; twenty a day is
not thought very good sport : I have killed alto
gether one dozen, but never more than three in
one day. We coursed the gazelle and hare alter
nately, the greyhounds in this country being very
swift and strong. We were indulged one day with
a hawking scene. The cheapness and plenty of
game is astonishing ; every day we have had either,
woodcocks, or partridges, wild-geese, or ducks,
teal, the bustard, or wild turkey, joli notes, &c.
and to crown all, the porcupine, which is a deli
cious animal, resembling both in appearance and

234 TRAVELS IN [LETTER II.
taste, the pig and hare. We thought the flesh of
the gazelle well flavoured, although Bruce abuses
it; the white species is supposed to be the best. The
porcupine inhabits holes in the rocks, and they are
so quick of hearing, that it is very difficult to shoot
them, as they never quit their holes till dark, and
even then with the greatest circumspection ; the
people wait patiently for hours in the cold, near
the holes, till the animal makes its appearance ;
they commit much mischief in the gardens near
the ci.ty. We had an idea of visiting Bagdad,
for the purpose of seeing the ruins of Babylon,
but as Mr. Massick, the Dutch consul here, had
recently received a letter on the very subject,
from a friend, wherein mention was made that
there is nothing whatever to be seen, we gave it
up, as also did Mr. Bankes, who had the same
intention ; I inclose you the copy of the letter.
Mr. Barker has resided nineteen years as consul
general in this place, and we find his advice and
assistance of the greatest use. As we came into
this country with only one hundred and fifty
pounds, which Mr. Salt supplied us on our bills,
we had made up our minds to return to Cairo, to
get our letter of credit, and also to increase our
stock of money for Asia Minor, Greece, &c. but
Mr. Barker imagining some such motive was the
cause of our intended return to Egypt, most

LETTER II. J SYRIA. 235
kindly anticipated us on this head, and without
our even hinting the subject, insisted on supplying
us with whatever money or letters of credit we
wanted; this will entirely prevent the necessity
of our going to Egypt again, and will assist us
much. I shall say nothing of either Aleppo or
its environs, reserving that for the subject of a
future letter. We are anxious to have done
with travelling in the Mahomedan countries,
and again to enjoy the comforts of Switzerland
and Italy. There is a great sameness in all
Turkish towns* and the want of inns, theatres,
museums, picture galleries, libraries, promenades,
evening parties, and the ever handy and comfort
able caffe, are privations which an European
must ever regret. We have a' firman from the
Grand Seignior coming from Constantinople, Mr.
Barker having written for it on our arrival here;
it will be useful in Asia Minor.
December 24. The caravan from Sukne
arrived this day, and we shall soon be off. We
are to send the outlines of our tour to Lord
Belmore for his guidance, but this we defer till
we get to Palmyra. His lordship very kindly
offered us a passage in his brig to any ' parts
which might lie in his way, should we be enabled
to embark with him from Syria; but there is
no chance of this.

236 TRAVELS IN SYRIA. [LETTER II.
December 29. We were to have set off this
evening for Palmyra, by way of Sukne, when a
merchant from Bagdad, a great friend -of Mr.
Barker's happening to drop in, strongly dissuaded
us from the measure, and urged us to go by, the
way of Hamah or Homs, as the Annasee Arabs
are in the neighbourhood of Palmyra. We had
thought the cold had driven them to the south
ward, towards the banks of the Euphrates, but as
it appears there yet remain two tribes of them,
Homs is recommended as the best place to start
from. In consequence we propose moving from
hence nvtwo or three days for Damascus, visiting
Palmyra on our way ; this will be a considerable
saving of time to us.

LETTER III,

Departure from Aleppo to Sermein. — Marah.— -Hamah.
— Homs. — Camp of Mahannah. — Palmyra. — Return
to Homs. — Arrival at Damascus.
In the Convent of Damascus, February 17, 1818,
In my last letter from Aleppo, I think I mentioned
that we were going to Palmyra by way of Sukne.
We found, however, that the natives of that place
were not capable of conducting us with safety to
Tadmor, and that, moreover, they asked as high a
price as we had any idea of giving to the Arabs,
whose protection would have insured the accom
plishment of our object. Thus circumstanced we
prepared for our departure for Hamah, which place
as well as Homs is only four days' distant from Pal
myra, and we had sanguine expectations of suc
ceeding in our project from either one or the other
of these towns; besides the chance I have just no
ticed, we had two other strings to our bow, viz. to
push on to Cariateen, which is only one day from
Tadmor, and thence to steal there before the

238 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
Arabs were aware of our intention; or to take
Turkish post-horses and an escort from Damascus,
and go in spite of the Arabs ; this last plan, how
ever, would have been a very expensive one. But
before I proceed further, I shall add a few re
marks upon Aleppo. The city is pleasantly
situated in a hollow surrounded by sloping hills,
which are very uninteresting, having no trees,
and the land having no inclosures. The houses
of Aleppo are built of stone ; the streets are
narrow and ill paved, except the Bazars which
are all roofed over with arches of the same con
struction as the houses, and are lighted from
above. Thus you can walk all over the town on
the terraces of the houses ; the arches I have
mentioned connecting the streets one with the
other. The Franks avail themselves of this mode
of communication to visit each other during the
time of the plague; we made visits half a mile
distant in this manner. The Franks and Chris
tians have their separate quarters here, the same
as in all Turkish towns. The city is surrounded
with gardens, watered by small rivulets drawn
from the main stream which supplies the town.
We visited some Turkish houses, and were much
struck with the beauty of the cielings of the
apartments, which are decorated by Persian
artists; they are very curiously gilded and

LETTER III.] SYRIA. 239
painted, but to describe them in writing would
be difficult and uninteresting. The decorations
in carve-work, on the doors and window-frames,
are also extremely curious. We assisted Mr.
Bankes in tracing some of them from copies on
paper which were lent him. The neat private
steam-baths and fountains are worthy of notice.
The society of Aleppo is good : the men and
women make separate parties to the baths, where
they have coffee and refreshments, and pass the
evening. The walls of the city resemble those
at Antioch; Volney describes the castle and
other particulars, and as a description of a town
is at best but a dry subject, I shall refer you to
him for further particulars. The neighbourhood
of Aleppo abounds in game, and we were struck
with admiration at the neat and cleanly appear
ance of the butcher's shops, which are equal to
those of London.
January 3. We started for Hamah, our kind
and estimable host, together with his brother, ac
companying us on horseback for two hours out
side the town. Such had been his solicitude
in our behalf that he furnished us with letters to
Selim, the governour's secretary at Hamah, and
to Scander, the secretary to the motsellim of
Homs ; he likewise gave us a strong letter of re
commendation to Hadgi Hassan, an elderly Turk

240 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
at Homs, who has great dealings with the Arabs.
All these people were requested to render us every
assistance in their power to get to Palmyra. We
had besides other letters from Mr. Barker to the
Saraffs of the pashaW of Damascus, urging them to
assist us in getting post-horses, should we be
obliged to go in that manner. In addition to these,
he gave us letters to Acre, Cyprus, and Smyrna ;
to Sir Robert and Lady Liston, and to several
other people at Constantinople. He lent us
Maundrell's Travels in Syria, and a good map of
Asia Minor and Greece, and furnished us with
money. At sun-set we stopped at the khan Touman, a
spacious lodging, but which was filled to excess
with the caravans for Damascus and Latachia.
On the following morning we proceeded at day
light in company with them, our road lying over
naked plains partly cultivated. About three in
the afternoon we stopped at Sermein; there are
several villages in this quarter, and a few clumps
of olives, otherwise the country is destitute of
wood. Mount Cassius, whose summit was by this
time covered with snow, was in sight on our
right. January 5. We proceeded at sun-rise, intend
ing to go with the Latachia caravan as far as
Shogher, and thence follow up the banks of the

LETTER III.] SYRIA. 24 1
Orontes to Hamah ; but being late, and seeing a
caravan on our left, we branched out in that di
rection, joined it, and found that they were in the
straight road to Hamah, and that they were
bound to that place and Damascus ; we therefore
continued with them. About ten we passed a
ruined square Turkish fortress enclosing a vil
lage. Many of these places, on the skirts of the
desert, are walled in, as one would suppose to afford
them protection against the Arabs. Shortly after
we met a very extensive caravan, being part of the
hadj or pilgrimage to Mecca on their return from
Damascus — an interesting sight; they had the green
flag, the prophet's banner, flying (15). There were
few camels, the animals being mostly horses and
mules, and having all bells attached to them, they
made a merry, ringing noise (l6). There were
amongst them several tackterwans, the only species
of vehicle in the east, which supplies the place of
four wheel carriages ; we had seen one of them in
the great Morocco hadj, which arrived at Cario
in September last; it resembled a sedan chair,
supported before and behind, with horses instead
of men ; but those which we saw this day differed
from it, one being a species of tent-bed placed cross-
way on the back of a mule, and the other resemb-
ling two childs' cradles, fitted like panniers on the
back of a camel. These tackterwans are enclosed

242 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
with curtains, and are generally used by women
or sick people. Nearly the whole of this and the
next day, we passed divisions of the hadj ; all the
animals were laden with some private venture of
the pilgrims, as they always make a commerce
of this expedition ; if you read Volney you will
see in what estimation even the Turks hold the
man who has made a hadj. They have an old
adage among them to this purport, " Beware of
thy neighbour if he has made a hadj ; but if he
has made two, quickly prepare to leave thy
house :" the keenness with which all the peasants,
near the khans bargain for every thing they sell
seems to agree with this remark. We saw this
day some few Roman ruins, and sarcophagi form
ed of the stone of the country, apparently of the
lower empire. At two P. M. we stopped for the
night atMarah, and slept in a very good khan. The
ensuing morning we proceeded as before. Leba
non, now a mass of snow, lay before us ; and Mount
Cassius was shut in by the northern extremity
of the Ansarian mountains. We passed several
sites of ancient towns, tanks, sarcophagi, . &c.
every thing much dilapidated and uninteresting,
excepting that they served to shew that the
neighbourhood was better peopled in former
times than it is at present. The country was
still nothing but open plains, without a single

LETTER III.] SYRIA. 243
tree, being inhabited by numerous gazelles, par
tridges, hares, bustards, &c. We passed the
night at Khan Shekune situated near an arti
ficial hill, several of which we had seen during the
day ; they resembled those on Salisbury Plain,
and other parts of England. We found the khan
good, but very full of people, occasioned by the
return of the hadj already mentioned.
January 7- Our road was still through open
plains partially cultivated, parallel with the range
of the Ansarian mountains; Lebanon and Anti-
Lebanon in sight before us ; about three in the
afternoon we arrived at Hamah. The ap
proach for the last hour was pretty enough, de
scending into a vale through which the Orontes
takes a winding course, the banks of which are
cultivated, wooded, and laid out occasionally in
gardens on one side, with perpendicular chalky
cliffs in some parts on the other. Here are
immense wheels or sackeys turned by the stream
of the river, to raise the water for the irrigation of
the soil. Hamah is the Epiphania of the Greeks
and Romans, though it is, no doubt, the site of
the ancient Hamath mentioned in various parts of
scripture ("), together with Damascus, Lebanon,
and other contiguous places, it took its name
from the sons of Canaan, fourth son of Ham,
the *on of Noah, which makes it of very high

244 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
antiquity. Hamah is delightfully situated in
a hollow, between and on the sides of two
hills, near the west bank of the Orontes, but in
itself presents nothing worthy Of notice at this
day. We took up our quarters in a khan, and as
these buildings in the towns differ considerably
from those on the road side, I will give you a
description of the former. Like the latter, they
surround an open square, but are differently
constructed, being meant for travellers and mer
chants to lodge in during the time they remain
in the towns to dispose of their merchandise, or
settle any private affairs they may have to trans
act; whereas the khans on the road side are only
intended for a night's lodging, and security for
the traveller and his animals. In these the
squares are formed in open piazzas in which men
and animals indiscriminately take up their, abode,
there being no division into apartments, cells, or
any detached chamber whatever ; for this accom
modation no payment is required. The khans in the
towns, instead of the open piazzas, are furnished all
round with two stories of small apartments* each
chamber, or rather cell, being about twelve feet
square, with a doOr (the key of which is given
you), and an iron-barred window with wooden
shutters but no glass. I suspect they were ori
ginally intended as a gratuitous lodging for tra-

LETTER III. J SYRIA. 245
vellers, the same as those on the high-roads and
in the villages, but as they have only one small
entrance, and are thereby the most secure places
in the towns, the lower rooms are generally filled
with merchandize of the different resident proprie
tors. In front of these are arched piazzas for the
horses, mules, &c. &c. and also a balcony or ter
race, with wooden railing, fronting the upper
row of cells, which are all totally unfurnished,
being nothing but bare walls; and for a mat to
lie on, cooking utensils, fuel, &c. these must be
the care of , the occupier. There is a porter who
generally rents the khan, and in the day time
attends the gate, which is locked up at night ; he
makes his profit by the fees from travellers, and
also by the merchandize which is lodged within.
We paid two piastres (is. 5d.) for admittance, or
as it is termed for the key of our room, four paras
(one penny English) per day for the lodging, and
one para per day for each horse. As for provision
we always got that from the market, and cooked
in our own room, making excellent soup, roast,
&c. Our principal meat was mutton, as the
Turks do not eat much beef, and therefore it is
never good. While at Hamah we received a
letter from Mr. Barker by an express messenger
from Aleppo, together with a firman from the
grand Seignior, which Mr. B. had written for to

246 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
Sir Robert Liston shortly after our arrival in the
latter end of November. This firman empowers us
to go with four servants through Syria, Cyprus,
the islands of the Archipelago, Smyrna, Adana,
Karaman, Karahissar, Kiutaya, to Broussa, and
from thence to Constantinople ; we are to be
treated in the most friendly manner, offered
every assistance, security, and protection, accord
ing to* the imperial capitulations, and furnished
with all necessary escorts whenever -occasion may
require. We witnessed a melancholy scene the few
last days we were here : there arrived one evening
four shabby-looking,ill-dressed Turks, attired some
what like soldiers, and an elderly knave better
clad, though no better looking than the others.
These people brought with them eleven Georgian
girls, the remnant of between forty and fifty, as
we were informed, whom they had stolen or kid
napped from their parents on the confines of
Georgia ; they were brought to be sold as slaves
or mistresses to such wealthy Turks as could
afford to bid high sums for such unfortunate
victims. These poor girls were lodged in the
cells contiguous to ours ; they were mostly
between fifteen and twenty years of age ; two
were younger, being about twelve. They were
all exceedingly pretty, with black sparkling eyes,
rosy cheeks, long black hair, and very fair com-

LETTER I1I.J SYRIA. 247
plexibns, giving a very strong contradiction to
the account which Volney writes of the Georgian
and Circassian women, where he says " that their
fame for beauty arises more from the fancy of
travellers, heightened by the difficulty they have
always found to get a sight of them, than from
any real merit they possess in this respect." The
prices which were demanded and offered for
these girls, is the best proof of the estimation in
which they are held by the Turks, especially
when it is known that these people are allowed a
plurality of wives. We were present at the
bidding for one girl by a rich Turk, when fourteen
purses, each purse being five hundred piastres
( 1 8/.), were demanded, and although he offered
ten, they would not abate one para ; ' the poor
girl, who was about fifteen, standing up all the
while, and hearing the disputes about her pur
chase. They were all taken out four different
times, and conducted through the town to the
rich Turkish houses to be viewed and bid for, the
same as any other merchandize ; and on two oc
casions considerable parties of the principal inha
bitants came to our khan, and examined and bid
for the unhappy creatures at the door of their
cells ; they being obliged to stand up in a row,
while their several merits were discussed by the
rival bidders. We saw several candidates for

248 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
purchasing, of upwards of fifty years of age,
while the friendless object of his choice was only
fifteen. The diet of these poor unfortunates,
considering their sex, was of a character with the
rest of their treatment, consisting only of a loaf
of bread and a small piece of cheese twice a day ;
and although we were buying oranges, at only
two paras (a halfpenny) each, we never saw one
amongst them all. Whenever the owners went
abroad they loeked their charge up in the cells,
and carried away the key. Being returned from
one of their tours through the town, we heard
some bitter lamenting in the cell next to ours, and
found that it proceeded from one of the young
girls being about to be sold, and consequently
separated from her sister and companions. The
mode of conducting these girls from town to town
is on horseback ; in this manner they had been
bronght from Georgia, being exposed for sale at
all the principal towns as they came along; they
were now destined for Damascus, where it was
thought a good mart would be found for them ;
they set out. On their melancholy journey two
days before we did. Bruce has given some ac
count of the Georgian and Circassian women,
which you can read and compare with this ; I
think in this instance he comes much nearer the
truth than Volney.

LETTER III.] SYRIA. 249
Nothing else of consequence occurring while
we were at Hamah, excepting our negotiations
with the Arabs, in order to reach Palmyra, I
shall now describe them ; shortly after arriving,
our Maltese interpreter, in conveying our letter
of introduction to Selim, the governour's secretary,
met at the house of the latter a man named
Pierre, of Dar-el-Camar, in the employ of Lady
Hester Stanhope, by whom he had been sent, as
he said, to fetch two horses that had been pre
sented to Lady H. by the governours of Homs
and Hamah ; he was also charged with a present
of one hundred piastres to Narsah, the chief of
the Annasee Arabs. Pierre, who returned with
our interpreter, said that he had accompanied
Lady Hester to Palmyra and was acquainted with
the Arab chiefs, and that it was he who made the
bargain for Mr. Bankes, who was obliged to pay
one thousand two hundred piastres,, besides being
sent back once by Narsah, and kept in confine
ment by Sheikh Hamed, his younger brother, at
Palmyra, by which he' extorted two hundred
piastres from Mr. Bankes. Selim, as well as
Scander, being both absent at Damascus, we
were at some difficulty how to proceed, but
resolved, however, to await the return of Selim,
as Pierre expected he Would be back in a few
days. We had much conversation about the

250 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
Arabs with Pierre, and about the prices which
travellers had at different times paid for visiting
Palmyra ; for although we were determined to go
coute qui coute, we still determined to dispute
and fight as hard a battle as we could, pretending
at the same time to be very indifferent about it.
We soon saw that if this man assisted us, he
would at least make us pay as much money as he
could, for he talked of two, three, four, and even
six hundred piastres as nothing. We, however,
told him that four hundred was the utmost we
would pay, and informed him of our knowledge
of Sir William Chatterton.and Mr. Leslie having
visited Palmyra, by Cariateen, for only one hun
dred piastres, while the Arabs were employed in
making extravagant demands of Mr. Bankes.
Pierre, on hearing this, observed, " that if Sir W.
C. and Mr. L. had gone in this manner, they had
stolen to Tadmor." Perceiving that he was not
inclined to make for us a moderate bargain, we
were undetermined what course to pursue ; as we
made no doubt that he would at all events give in
formation to the Arabs of our arrival, and of our
wish to visit Palmyra. In the meantime a Chris
tian who lives at Homs came to us, asserting, that
there was no difficulty in getting to the object
of our wisb.es> and that he was acquainted with
two others of his sect at Homs, who with himself

LETTER III.] SYRIA. 25 1
would answer for conducting us upon asses, at
a moderate price, and without any danger from
the Arabs. We did not place very implicit con
fidence in his account, particularly as we knew
that our departed friend, Sheikh Iorahim, had
been robbed and stripped in his first attempt,
and we had Mr. Bankes' fate also before us; but
as time was passing away, and we were doing
nothing, we decided on going with the above-
mentioned Christian to Homs, telling Pierre, and
every body else to whom we spoke on the subject,
that we had given, up all idea of going to Palmyra,
in consequence of the expense attending it, and
had decided on pursuing our journey to Damascus
and Jerusalem.
January 1 6. We had intended to set out in the
morning. It however turned out very wet weather
that day, and we did not accompany the man, as
we had no idea of getting wet through on such
an uncertain excursion; but we promised him
to follow whenever it became clear weather.
During the afternoon Pierre visited us and ap
peared to be much surprised that we had not
set out for Damascus ; we told him that we were
solely prevented from quitting Hamah by the
rain. He made no further observation, but
shortly after retired, and in about half an hour

252 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
more returned with five Arabs whom he said he
had brought to us that we might make a bargain
with them for going to Palmyra. The chief of
these was Shiekh Salee, nephew to Mahannah,
a lad about fourteen or fifteen years of age, very
dirty and. ill-dressed, with a sheep skin cloak: he
sat down in our room with great composure, as
did his four companions, three of whom were
blacks ; while smoking their pipes, they examined
every thing in our apartment with great atten
tion, but we had purposely hid whatever was
likely to attract notice, or give an idea of riches.
Their first demand was three thousand piastres,
at which we burst out into an immoderate fit of
laughter; they then came down to two thousand,
but we remained fixed at four hundred : at last
they lowered to eight hundred. The lad now
made signs that we should be robbed; we shewed
all we meant to take with us, and said it was
not worth fifty piastres, which indeed was true
enough. He then made signs that we should
have our throats cut; we told him that neither
he, Mahannah* nor any of his tribe would dare
touch a Frank, furnished as we were with the
imperial firman, which he knew we had, though
they do not care much for the Grand Seignior; it
was not a little remarkable to hear such threats

LETTER III.] SYRIA. , 253
from a boy only fourteen years of age. At last
they quitted us altogether, saying, they must have
eight hundred or none: after some deliberation,
seeing they were gone in earnest, we sent to give
them six hundred as our ultimatum, the hire of
the camels which were to carry us included; hut
nothing to be paid until our safe return to Hamah.
After much prevarication, during which they
endeavoured to make us pay for the camels
extra, they at length consented to our terms, as
they said, " for the love of the Malaka" or queen,
for such they were pleased to call Lady Hester
Stanhope, who gave five hundred pounds for this
trip ; had we paid them as much money, no doubt
they would have called us two kings, for like the
Nubians flus (money) is their idol. The next
morning we sent to the Aga to have the treaty
ratified in writing. They now demanded three
hundred piastres in advance; we positively re
fused paying a para until our safe return;
and, finally, the Aga declined being responsible
unless Mahannah or Narsah sent a written docu
ment to say we might pass safely. Thus the
affair remained till the morning of the nineteenth,
the Arabs having, however, come to us once in
the mean time, to endeavour to prevail on us to
give them three, two, or even one hundred
piastres in advance; but as the smallest sum paid

254 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
before hand would have placed us in some mea
sure in their power, and rendered our journey
uncertain, we persisted in refusing.
January 19. We removed to Homs, no mes
sage from Mahannah having arrived ; Pierre
followed us. We left Hamah at dawn of day,
and arrived in about eight hours, the road leading
still through rich plains destitute of wood. There
is only one variety, ; viz. about half way we
crossed the Orontes, now diminished in breadth
to a * paltry stream ; the river here winds much
through a chasm. There is a bridge of thirteen
arches, and the water being kept up for the pur
pose of turning a mill, together with a cascade
which it forms, a khan, the village of Rastan,
which stands near it, and a few trees on the
immediate bank of the rivulet, altogether make
it rather a pretty spot. Rastan stands on an
eminence near the bridge, and the ancient Are-
thusia adjoins it, presenting a sight of more
interest than we had lately been accustomed to,
though nothing remains perfect; part of the
walls, the line of the streets, and the pedestals of
some columns being alone remarkable. Settled
in a khan at Homs. We had, on the twentieth,
some conversation with the Christian we had seen
at Hamah; but it appeared evident he was un
dertaking a business he did not know how to

LETTER III.] SYRIA. 255
execute. In the evening one of the Arabs who
had visited us with Shiekh Salee, came with a
letter from Sheikh Narsah, who, he said, was en
camped one day's journey from Palmyra; this
letter stated, " That Narsah had heard of ouv
" arrival in Hamah, and of our wish to visit
"Tadmor; that he expected by the twenty-
" fourth, that the Fidon and Isbaah Arabs, under
" Shiekh Haleel, and who were at war with the
'* Annasees, would be removed from the neigh-
" bourhood of Palmyra, and that at the expi-
" ration of that time he would come to Homs
" with three camels to conduct us." This story
we had afterwards reason to believe was a fiction,
to persuade us of the absolute necessity of his
protection ; in the mean time he desired we
would give the bearer twenty piastres ; upon this
we made great difficulties, as our departure not
being yet completely settled, their remained some
chance of our being cheated out of it ; and we
had an idea that if we shewed an easy compliance
in giving money, we might soon receive an order
for some thousands ; in short, finding how tar
dily affairs were going on, we resolved to set out
the next morning and walk, determining to call
on Narsah on our way. To this plan the Arab
consented, and every thing was agreed on,
he swearing the most sacred oaths that all

256 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
should go on well, and that we should have one
ass to carry our bread, water, and sheep-skin
coats. January 2 1 . This morning the man appeared
again, saying, he could not take us, as he feared
Narsah would cut off his head for having under
taken the business without express orders ;
therefore after much prevarication, this last ar
rangement also terminated unfavourably, and the
Arab set off a second time for the camp of Ma
hannah, to bring the camels as soon as possible,
and apprize his chief that we had removed to
Homs. In the afternoon it came on to blow
hard, with continued squalls of snow, sleet, and
rain, and as we were to have set off that morning
on our. walking trip, we were not sorry of
our failure in this instance. As the bad
weather " continued without intermission night
and day till the twenty-fourth, in the evening,
when the man returned from Mahannah with the
three camels, we could not arrange for starting
till the twenty-sixth, as the motsellim (governour)
being busy taking an inventory of the decapi
tated pashaw's effects, could not ratify the
bargain. For an account of the arbitrary pro
ceedings of the Turkish government towards
suspected individuals, I refer you to Volney. In
this instance, the sufferer had been appointed

LETTER III.] SYRIA. 257
to the command of the hadj, and had set off
from Constantinople. While he was on his
return from Mecca, a khat-sherriffe was dis
patched from the capital, ordering his head to be
cut off and sent immediately to Constantinople ;
his sentence was carried into execution before he
reached Damascus (1B). We hear that this man
was accused of intriguing with the Russians
against the state. We paid three hundred
piastres into the hands of Hadji Hassan, as part
payment to the Arab sheikhs, but it was agreed
that they should not themselves receive any
portion of it till our safe return to Homs. Sheikh
Narsah's order was, that we should pay all before
starting ; but we persisted in refusing, and more
over, we made the Arabs consent, before ample "
witnesses, that no further demands were to be
made upon us, exclusive of the six hundred
piastres, on any pretence whatever. The mot-
sellim, who like all the Turks, had a great, and as
you will observe in the sequel, unnecessary dread
of these people, observed, " why will you trust
yourselves amongst the Arabs, suppose they should
destroy you ?"
January 26. At one in the afternoon, after
nineteen days' negotiation, either at Hamah or
Homs, we were on rout with our three camels
and as many conductors, with two skin bottles

258 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
(see Judges, iv. 19, " a bottle of milk), into which
they had run the melted butter, bought with Lady
Hester's present. We proved to them before
departing that we had not a para in our pockets,
thus preventing any temptation to pilfer ; all our
baggage consisted of a sheep-skin coat, the
woolly side in, and the other side coloured red
with ochre, and greased to keep out the rain (19).
We went five hours, our guides singing nearly
the whole time a favourite Arab song. Arriving
at a Bedouin camp, we had some scruples about
entering a tent, expecting they would have had
many objections against receiving us ; instead of
which, to our surprise, we were welcomed by
both men and women; the latter smiling, said,
we were Frangi (Franks), and retired to then-
part of the tent to prepare supper.
January 27. Being regaled with a breakfast,
we proceeded at eight and marched till four in
the afternoon, stopping at another Arab camp,
where we were again well received.
January 28. We started at dawn of day, and
met with many dwarf trees, of which the country
had hitherto been destitute ; it now resembled a
heath with a plentiful stock of aromatic ,shrubs,
and occasional hill and dale. We followed no
particular road or track, but our general direc
tion appeared to be east. We had this morning

LETTER III.J SYRIA. 259
a striking instance of the value the Arab sets on
his time, and of his impatience to accomplish a
journey when once undertaken. Suddenly one of
our party quitting us, hastened on in advance, and
was soon out of sight ; shortly after, on coming
up with him we found he had- collected brush
wood and made a blazing fire ; presently some but
ter was melted and sweetened with honey. In this
we dipped our bread which we had brought ; and
what with the Arab's voracious mode of eating,
and these time-saving measures, our breakfast
did not detain us above ten minutes. The same
hurry was subsequently shewn on our wanting to
drink some water from a small crevice in the rock
close to us ; we were prohibited and told there
was plenty before us ; but as the camps were
hours in advance to our knowledge, we were not
to be controlled, and dismounting, quenched our
thirst. The soil was excessively rich, but we saw
no water, and all species of cultivation had ceased
a few hours from Homs. We could not help
laughing at our principal guide, who with a rusty
old match-lock and no powder, pretended to be
very vigilant in reconnoitring from all the heights
for harami (robbers), while we knew that he and
his companions were of the most timid nature,
and that to their knowledge we were going with
the sanction, and under the protection of their own

260 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
chiefs, who commanded the whole country. At
noon we saw a wild boar, so large that we at first
took him for an ass. About four in the after
noon we opened the valley in which Mahannah's
camp was pitched. The Arabs were obliged to
inquire before they could find out the direction
of the camp, and as they had only been absent a
few days, some idea may be formed from this cir
cumstance of the difficuly of attacking the tribes
in the desert. As we approached, we beheld a
very animated and busy scene ; the girls were
singing, and the children busied in running down
the young partridges (20) with dogs, as they were
as yet only able to fly a short distance at a time.
Presently we heard a hue and cry from all quar
ters, and soon perceived a large wild boar, with
his bristles erect, beset by all the dogs; every
body running eagerly to the pursuit. He was
found behind one of the tents ; they chased him
all through the camp, and two Arabs on horse
back, with spears, soon joined in the pursuit. The
animal, however, kept both men and dogs at bay,
and finally got off with only one wound. We
now approached the sheikh's tent and found Ma
hannah with his two sons, Sheikhs Narsah and
Hamed, together with about thirty Arab chiefs
of various camps seated round an immense fire ;
Sheikh Narsah was leaning on a camel's saddle^

LETTER III.J SYRIA. 26 F
their customary cushion ; he did not rise to re
ceive us, although we afterwards observed that
he and the whole circle rose whenever a strange
sheikh arrived. We attributed this cool recep
tion to the low estimation he held us in, in con
sequence of the unusually small sum we had paid
for visiting Palmyra, and from the plainness of
our dress and appearance. All the assembly kept
up a most profound silence, while Narsah alone ad
dressed us. Mahannah, his father, was a short,
crooked-backed, mean-looking old man, between
seventy and eighty years of age, dressed in a com
mon sort of robe ; his son, Narsah, to whom he
had, in consequence of his age, resigned the reins
of government, was a good looking' man about
thirty years of age, with very dignified and en
gaging manners. He had the Koran open in his
hand when we arrived, as we suppose to give us
an idea of his learning. He was well dressed with
a red pelisse and an enormous white turban ; we
observed much whispering going forward between
Narsah and every stranger that arrived, evincing
a distrust of those near him, and all our guides
were separately questioned in the same manner,
as we suppose to learn whether we had much
money or not ; he also asked us why the English
wished so much to see Palmyra ; and whether we
were not going to search for gold ? We told him

262 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
he should have half of any we might find there.
It appeared they had only arrived the day be
fore, as they are constantly shifting their quar
ters, in order to provide food for their numerous
camels* sheep, and goats ; the scarcity of water
and dryness of the pasturage prevents them from
haying cows and oxen. As the evening advanced,
the Arab guests increased to the number of fifty,
all giving way as new faces arrived ; their mode
of saluting their chiefs is by kissing either cheek
alternately (21), and not the hand as in Nubia.
Narsah questioned us about Buonaparte and the
occupation of France by the allied troops; I sus
pect his knowledge of these matters proceeded
from his correspondence with Lady Hester Stan
hope. Inquiring after Sheikh Hamedy, a hand
some young man apparently between twenty and
twenty-five years of age, with evident confusion
in fiis countenance, acknowledged himself as the
person ; at the same time remarking that we had
probably heard a bad account of him, but that
the reports to his prejudice were not correct ; this
man confined Mr. Bankes a day, and obliged him
to pay two hundred piastres exclusive of the one
thousand two hundred he paid to Narsah for
visiting Palmyra. Some of the partridges which
the children had caught, were now brought in;
they roasted them on the fire, and part was given

LETTER III.J SYRIA. 263
to us ; Sheikh Hamedy throwing a leg and a wing
to each of us. They afterwards gave us some
honey and butter together, with bread to, dip in
it (22), Narsah desiring one of his men to mix the
two ingredients for us, as we were aukw ardat it ;
the Arab, having stirred the mixture up well with
his fingers, shewed his dexterity at consuming as
well as mixing, and recompensed himself for his
trouble by eating half of it. Both at sun-set and at
eight o'clock, the whole assembly were summoned
to prayers, a man standing outside the tent and
calling them to their devotions, in the same manner
as is done from the minarets of the mosques of
Turkish towns ; each man rubbed his face over
with sand, a heap of which was placed in front of
the tent for that purpose, to serve as a substi
tute for water for their religious ablutions ; we
could not but admire the decorous solemnity with
which they all joined in the divine worship, stand
ing in a row and bowing down and kissing the
ground together (23). An immense platter of roast
mutton was then brought in for supper, with
pillaw of rice ; the assembly fed apart, while a
separate portion was brought for Narsah and us.
We observed the elderly men gave their half-
gnawed bones to those around them, and were
told that they have a complimentary adage in
favonr of him who doeth so. A black slave was

264 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
perpetually pounding coffee from the moment we
entered the tent till we went to sleep, and as he
began in the morning at day-light, and was con
stantly employed, it would seem that the con
sumption in this article must be considerable.
Late at night Narsah began to address the whole
circle of sheikhs, who we found had been convened
in order that they might hear his request, that
¦ some portions of grazing ' land, called " the
Cottons," might be delivered up to him. Being
tired with the length of his discourse, we removed
to a corner of the tent and fell asleep ; we heard
afterwards that his harangue lasted till three in
the morning. On the following day we wished
to proceed according to a promise which Narsah
had given the preceding evening, Alia Raschid
(by his head), lifting up his hand at the same
time (**), to let us depart before sun-rise ;
but as the chief had sat up so late he did not
make his appearance till about ten o'clock, when
instead of letting us go, he desired we would
follow him ; and presently proceeding to a small
vale contiguous to his tent, we found the Arabs
assembling from all quarters and following us in.
great numbers. We were quite at a loss to know
the meaning of all this; at first we thought it
was intended to shew off the numbers of .his
people ; presently, however, we came to a tent,

LETTER III.] • SYRIA. 265
and found an immense feast of rice and camel's
flesh prepared for the whole assembly. We
were conducted to a smaller tent apart, and had
our share sent to us; we were in doubt what
object the sheikh had in thus separating us;
whether it was meant as an accommodation to us
that we might eat more comfortably and freely
by ourselves, than in the midst of so great a
concourse of people, or whether he thought we
were not fit society for him. Our dress was
certainly of a much meaner description than that
of any of the sheikhs ; and as throughout the
east a stranger is generally estimated according
to the dress he wears, it is probable that our homely
appearance had some weight with Narsah on this
occasion. We found the meat both savoury and
tender, being part of the hump, which is consi
dered the best ; there was little fat, and the grain
was remarkably coarse; however we made a
hearty breakfast. The feast was conducted with
much order and decorum; the sheikhs fed apart
in a double row, with several immense platters
placed at equal distances between them, and a rope
line was drawn round to keep the people from
pressing in. Narsah was at the head of the row,
with a small select circle, amongst whom we
were called after we had breakfasted, he having
perceived us amongst the spectators. When the

266 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
sheikhs had finished, the people were regaled
with the remains; independent of which, portions
(see Esther, ix. 19, " sending portions") were
distributed to the different tents of the camp,
which consisted of about two hundred; this
latter arrangement was for the women and
children (25). We believe that several camels
were cooked from the immense quantities of
meat we saw. This feast was no doubt intended
to give weight to the proceedings of the former
evening. We were here asked whether Christians
did not not eat pig's flesh; and answering in the
affirmative, were questioned if we did not also
drink sow's milk, as they do camels (26); this,
however, we stoutly denied. Mahannah made
many signs for money, both for himself and
Sheikh Alii, a very handsome little boy about
five years of age, the son of Narsah; the Arab
sign for money is rubbing the fore finger and
thumb together. About eleven we set out, our
camels were changed for dromedaries of a heavy
sort, which set off with us at full trot up hill and
down dale, each of us having his Arab conductor
mounted behind him. We had now an addition
to our party; one of Narsah's men, who was
called a guard, accompanying us, mounted on a
white dromedary, decorated with tassels, and
armed with another old match-lock gun. We

LETTER III.]- SYRIA. 267
continued till four o'clock in the afternoon, and
slept in an Arab tent as usual. We found the
pace of the animals, on level ground and up hill,
good enough, but in descending we were dread
fully jolted.
January 30. At dawn we proceeded, our
new guard had endeavoured to make us start at
midnight, but we would not submit to this, as
the nights were very cold and frosty. We trotted
this day at the same rate as the preceding, and
were jolted and bruised almost beyond endurance.
At two in the afternoon we arrived at the object
of our wishes; our useful guard having previously
lighted the match of his gun and gone through
the motions of loading without ammunition.
On opening the ruins of Palmyra, as seen from
the Valley of the Tombs, we were much struck
with the picturesque effect of the whole, pre
senting altogether the most imposing sight of the
kind we had ever seen ; and it was rendered doubly
interesting by our having travelled through a
wilderness destitute of a single building* and
from which we suddenly opened upon these in
numerable columns and other ruins on a sandy
plain, on the skirts of the desert ; their snow-
white appearance contrasted with the yellow
sand produced a very striking effect. Great,
-however, was our disappointment, when on a

268 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
minute examination, we found that there was not
a single column, pediment, architrave, portal,
frieze, or any architectural remnant worthy of
admiration. None of the columns exceeded in
diameter four feet, or in height forty feet ; dimen
sions but ill calculated to give an idea of the
sublime, at least according to Longinus. Those
of the boasted avenue had little more than thirty
feet of altitude ; the epistylium is in no instance
ornamented with any carved-work, excepting
now and then an ill executed cornice. The
plates of Wood and Dawkins are certainly well
executed, but they have done but too much
justice to the originals; taken as a tout ensemble,
these ruins are certainly more remarkable, by
reason of their extent, (being nearly a mile and a
half in length), than any we have hitherto met
with, and they are, moreover, less encumbered by
modern fabrics than any we have witnessed ; for
exclusive of the Arab village of Tadmor, which
occupies the peristyle court of the Temple of the
Sun, and the Turkish burying place, there are no
obstructions whatever to the antiquities. Take
any part of the ruins separately, and they excite
but little interest ; and altogether, we judged the
visit to Palmyra hardly worthy of the time,
expense, anxiety, and fatiguing journey through
the wilderness, which we had undergone to visit

LETTER III.] SYRIA. 269
them. The projecting pedestals in the centre of
the columns of the great avenue have a very
unsightly appearance ; there is also a great
sameness in the architecture, all the capitals
being Corinthian, excepting those which surround
the Temple of the Sun. These last are fluted,
and when decorated with their brazen Ionic
capitals, were doubtless very handsome ; but the
latter being now deficient, the beauty of the
edifice is entirely destroyed. The sculpture, as
well of the capitals of the columns, as of the other
ornamental parts of the door-ways and buildings,
is very coarse and bad ; although the designs
are generally correct in the work of Wood and
Dawkins, we found that the execution of the
sculpture is far inferior to what might have
been expected from the engravings. The three
arches at the end of the avenue nearest the
Temple of the Sun, so beautiful in the designs,
are excessively insignificant ; the decorated frieze
thereof, although handsome in the plates, is very
badly wrought ; and in this instance, even the de
vices are not striking; they are not to be compared
to the common portals of Thebes, although the
Egyptians were unacquainted with the arch.
Every thing here is built of a very perishable
stone ; if it deserves the name of marble, it is very
inferior even to that of Baalbec; and we are

270 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
inclined to think the ruins of the latter place are
much more worthy the traveller's notice than
those of Palmyra. We suspect that it is the
difficulty of getting to Tadmor, and consequently
the few people that have been there, that has
given rise to the great renown of the ruins of
Palmyra. We give the preference to Baalbec,
not only for the general superiority of the sculp
ture, but also for the extraordinary massive
structure of the buildings ; and while the columns
of Baalbec have nearly sixty feet in height, and
seven in diameter, supporting a most rich and
beautifully wrought epistylium of twenty feet more,
the pillars being built of only three pieces of stone ;
the smallest columns at Palmyra (three feet and a
half in diameter and thirty feet high) are formed
of six, seven, and even eight parts; although those
which surround the peristyle court of the Temple
of the Sun may be about forty feet high, and
four feet diameter, are formed of only three
and four stones ; there are in the centre of the
avenue four granite columns, each of one single
stone, about thirty feet high ; only one is still
standing. We found the Tombs very interesting;
their construction is different from any thing we
had elsewhere seen. They consist of a number
of square towers, three, four, and five stories
high ; they are situated without the walls of the

LETTER III.] SYRIA. 271
ancient city. The best remaining are on
each side of the valley which leads to Homs
and Hamah. These towers are not orna
mented on the exterior, with the exception of a
tablet whereon is a Greek inscription (certainly
copied by Wood and Dawkins) and a few figures
in basso-relievo over the door. There are gene-
raly five sepulchral chambers one over the other,
and on each side are eight recesses, each divided
into four or five parts, for the reception of corpses ;
the lower chamber, in some instances, fronts
an excavation in the side of the hill contiguous
to it. The best of these lower apartments which
we saw are very handsome, the sides being
ornamented with sculpture and fluted Corinthian
pilasters, though the walls were plain white
stucco, without any figures or emblematical re
presentation. The cieling, on which the paint
is still very perfect, is ornamented like that of the
peristyle court of the Temple of the Sun at
Baalbec, with the heads of different heathen
deities, and disposed in diamond-shaped divisions.
We were much interested by the remains of some
of the mummies and mummy cloths, which
appear to have been preserved very much after
the manner of the Egyptians, only that the gum
had lost all that odour, resembling frankincense,
which we noticed in Egypt. We found a hand

272 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
in tolerable preservation ; but after all, you must
not imagine that these sepulchres are in any way
so interesting as those of Egypt. You here look
in vain for those beautiful paintings, &c. which so
well pourtray the manners and customs of the
ancients. Over the inside of the door-way, we saw
a tablet in basso-relievo, of seven or eight standing
figures dressed in long robes, with their hands on
their breasts ; we suppose them to have been
priests ; and we also noticed a sarcophagus, with
the sides ornamented much in the same manner.
We observed the marble folding doors, still
erect, of some of the grander tombs situated
in the town; these latter are much dilapidated;
the doors were carved in pannels, but ill ex
ecuted and unpolished. The lines of the streets
and foundations of the houses of Palmyra are
very distinguishable in some places. We agree
with Mr. Bankes, that many of the small
square rows of columns which Wood and Daw
kins suppose to have inclosed temples, were
no other than the open court of private edifices
which inclosed fountains; and Mr. B. was more
led to suspect this, from there being one of only
four columns, which never could have inclosed a
temple or solid building within it. These ideas
were suggested to him by his having noticed
similar remains at Pompeii. Passing down the

LETTER III. J SYRIA. 273
great avenue of columns there is a door-way
standing on the right hand, and within it are
the remains of the building it belonged to, having
an Hebrew inscription on the architrave, interest
ing on three accounts; first, as the foundation
of Tadmor was by Solomon ; second, as Zenobia
is said by some to have been of the Jewish
religion; and third, as Bishop Riddle sets down
two thousand Jews at Tadmor in his day. This
was a discovery of, and information we received
from, Mr. Bankes. There is at Palmyra a tepid
spring of mineral water, having a strong sulphu
reous taste and smell; a subterraneous aqueduct
suppfied the town. There is a great quantity of
salt in the desert adjoining Tadmor, which forms
a lucrative branch of commerce to the present
natives. After the complete work of Wood and
Dawkins, I need not trouble you with any further
remarks on Palmyra.
January 3 1 . Having finished our examination
of the ruins, we started at two, and continued till
ten at night, when we slept at an Arab tent as
usual. After dark the Arabs implored us not to
sing for fear the robbers should hear us, and ap
peared to be as fearful in their own desert, as it
was possible for a stranger to be.
February 1. We moved at sun-rise, and did
not reach Mahannah's camp until dark in the

274 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
evening; we were conducted back by another
road, and met with two parties of his people on
horseback* one of seven and the other of twelve,
mostly armed with spears; we also met a small
party on dromedaries richly caparisoned (Z7)* and
as we thought purposely sent to shew his power;
they asked us in passing how much we had paid
for visiting Palmyra, taking it as a thing of
course that we were obliged to give money ; our
change of road naturally gave some mystery to
our proceeding. On our arrival at the camp, old
Mahannah came out of his tent and began
feeling the saddles, and took from the poor
Arabs all the salt which they had purchased at
Palmyra. We were pretty well received by
the chiefs ; Narsah had on the old robe this time,
and the father the new one. We soon found
out the meaning of this, when the former asked
our interpreter to request that we would give
him a new dress; but the latter said it was a
thing impossible, as we had made our bargain
for six hundred piastres only. We begged, and
obtained a promise to depart early in the morn
ing, Narsah saying, he had only to write a letter
to the King of England, which we were to take
with us; he sent one to his dear friend Lady
Hester, with whom they all seem to be enchant
ed. They call her " El Malaka," (the queen);

LETTER III.] SYRIA. 275
some say she is " Bint-el Sultan" (daughter of
the king), and others favour her with the appella
tion of the Virgin Mary ,(2e).
February 2. In the morning we were detained
until nine o'clock* and had very much difficulty
in procuring a draught of water before starting ;
but we absolutely refused to move without it (29).
In consequence of this detention we were at the
end of the day's journey benighted, and had a
bitter cold bivouack in the open air, the Arabs
being afraid even to light a fire. We however
managed to lay down between two of our ca
mels, Which, from their kneeling posture, kept
some of the cold air off, sleeping was out of the
question, as it was freezing hard, with a strong, cut
ting wind (30). The following morning, at dawn,
we were on route; we saw twenty-three white
gazelles, and witnessed the removal of an Arab
camp ; the moveables being all placed- on the
camels' backs; the women with their children
slung over their shoulders, and the flocks follow
ing, presented altogether an interesting sight.
We breakfasted at a small encampment off a
thick mess of lentiles and bread, highly seasoned
with pepper, and very good (31). Towards noon we
passed a valley, grubbed up in all directions, in
furrows, by the wild boars ; the soil had all the
appearance of having been literally ploughed

276 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
up (32). In the evening we reached. Homs; we
were highly satisfied with our conductors, and
one would have had difficulty in finding such
good guides in any part of Europe,, we therefore
gave them each twenty piastres, as voluntary
backsheeish, although, when the agreement was
made, we particularly stipulated that six hundred
piastres should include all our expenses. One of
these men had received twenty more for carrying
the message to Narsah, as before mentioned. We
also sent a turban of twenty piastres value to
the shiekh of Tadmor for his civilities to us, and
gave one hundred piastres to Pierre, .so that our
whole expenses in visiting Palmyra amounted to
eight hundred piastres, two hundred of which con
sisted of voluntary gifts.
I shall now close this long story with our opi
nion of these Arabs : their behaviour to each
other, whatever may be their conduct to others,
presents an amiable picture of domestic harmony
and comfort, and is in unison with all the ideas
the poets have formed of the peaceful content
ment of the pastoral life; in fact, they are a
nation of shepherds, and I question much if in
our most polished circles, divested of the empty
pomp of dress and finery, you could meet with
more dignity of deportment or urbanity of man
ners than you find in the humble tent of the

LETTER III.] SYRIA. 277
Arab. It appeared to us that all the good.
amongst them was centred in the lower orders ;
the chiefs monopolizing to themselves all that
cunning and roguery which renders them con
temptible in the eyes of a stranger. An. Arab, on
arriving in a strange camp, goes to the first tent
that comes in his way; he does not wait to be
asked in, but without any ceremony makes his
camel lie down, unloads at the entrance, and
entering the tent with the simple salutation of
salaam alicam (peace be between us), sets himself
down by the fire, no matter whether the host
be at home or not. Should the latter be present,
he immediately puts fresh wood on, and begins to
burn and pound coffee, generally offering his pipe
to his guest in the mean time. His wife, or wives,
after spreading mats, if they have any, for the
stranger to sit on, retire to their part of the tent,
which is divided in the middle by their sack of
corn, and whatever other effects they have, pre
pares the dinner or supper according to the time
of the day, without any order being given by the
master, but as a matter of course; in the mean time
the host chats with his guests, generally about
their flock, &c. such being their principle con
cern. The coffee being ready, the landlord pours
out for every one his cup, helping himself last ; as
soon as the meal is prepared, which generally con-

278 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
sists of a large wooden bowl of either camel's,
goat's, or sheep's milk, boiled wheat and milk,
lentil soup, or melted butter and bread to dip in
it ; the landlord pours water alternately for his
guests, who therewith wash the right hand, begin-
ing with one, and going regularly round the
circle (S3). The ablution finished, every one com
mences; the host retires, not eating with his
guests, but welcoming them with frequent repe
titions of coula, coula (eat it all, eat it all). The
repast being finished, the attentive master again
washes the hands of his party, and then eats him
self of what remains. On two occasions we ar
rived at a camp late at night, and halting
before a tent, found the owner, with his wife and
children, having arranged their carpets, &c. for
the night, had just retired to rest, when it was
astonishing to see the good humour with which
they all arose again and kindled a fire, the wife
commencing to knead the dough and prepare our
supper (34), our Arabs making no apology, but
taking all as a matter of course, though the
nights were bitter cold. Surely this was a noble
instance of Arab hospitality. It was a pleasing
sight to see them bring in their flocks at night,
which always slept close to the tents of their
owners ; several Arabs, together with numerous
dogs, remaining outside as guards. The lambs

LETTER III.] SYRIA. 279
(for it was the lambing season)' were placed
inside the tents, in a small fenced place, to screen
them from the inclemency of the night air, which
was nearly as cold as you would experience it in
England at that season, always freezing hard.
The first care in the morning was to let their
young charge out to their mothers, when it was
not an uninteresting scene to observe the numer
ous ewes recognizing their offspring by the smell
alone; the lambs not being gifted with the saga
city of their mothers, were all willing to suck
from the first ewe they met with. In short, it
would appear that these people having few wants
are unacquainted with many cares, and are thus
ignorant of the greater part of the troubles and
difficulties which are experienced in more civilized
society. Every Arab having a tent of his own, is
thus possessed of a freehold, which has nothing to
do with either rents or taxes, and the shrubs of
the wilderness serve him spontaneously both with
food for his flocks, and fuel for his fires (35). The
labour of tilling and reaping is unknown to him,
though much judgement and foresight is necessary
in his periodical migrations with his flocks,
which must be regulated and timed with such
due regard to the seasons as to consume the ver
dure while they are advancing, and at the same
time to leave the land fallow sufficiently long for

280 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
its recovery before they return; a minute at
tention to this, being with them what our syste
matic mode of husbandry is with us. They con
trive to be near their southern boundary in the
winter, and consequently at their northern limits
in the summer. They are frequently obliged to
pitch their tents at six and eight hours' distance
from the wells, and then it is that their camels
are of incalculable utility to them. They are
^unacquainted with the miseries of blighted crops,
or those other disappointments to which the
farmer is so liable. Their behaviour to us was
the same as towards each other, and I suspect
that their character for robbing and pilfering,
arises from the conduct of some few of the worst
part of the community, who infest the high roads*
than from any dishonesty of the generality of
these people. The dread which the Turks have of
the Arabs appeared to us quite unaccountable, as
during the whole of our trip we did not see more
than half a dozen old matchlock guns, and about
eighteen spears. Narsah was imprisoned a short
time ago for some tricks he had been playing in
this city. The pashaw wanted to cut off his
head, but a strong remonstance from the mer
chants of Aleppo and Bagdad, setting forth the
disastrous consequences which would attend the
execution of this man, from the vengeance of the

LETTER III.] SYRIA. 281
Arabs, procured his release, and instead of losing
his head he was dismissed with a present of a robe
and some backsheeish. Scriptural authority, how
ever, is not wanting to prove the comparative
independence in which these people lived (36).
February 7. Requiring a little rest on our re
turn from Tadmor, we remained at Homs till this
morning, when we travelled for about seven hours,
passing over rich plains, and rounding the point of
a mountain which we took to be the end of Anti-
Lebanon. February 8. We went nine hours through a
mountainous country.
February 9- We went seven hours, passing
through several deep, dry torrents. We stopped
at a khan in a plain, and found the mountains
very barren, uninteresting, and partly covered
with snow.
February 10. Leaving this plain we again
entered a hilly country, when arriving at the
brow of a descent, the extensive and beautiful
plain of Damascus opened on our view, with
the town surrounded by woods, amidst which were
several villages ; the land was highly cultivated ;
to the eastward the plain extends as far as the
eye can reach ; in other directions it is bounded
by hills, with Lebanon very conspicuous above
them all. In about two hours we had descended

282 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
into the plain, and in five more arrived at the
convent of the Terra Sancta in Damascus. The
last three hours the road was extremely beautiful,
passing through rich olive groves and gardens,
generally inclosed by walls of sun-burnt brick,
and surrounded and irrigated by streams of water,
partly natural and partly conducted by art. We
were here very sensible to the comforts of a
convent, having never slept on a bed, or with our
clothes off, since we left Aleppo (thirty-eight days
ago). Our time has been occupied in writing our
letters, and in visiting different parts of the town,
such as the place of the Vision of St. Paul outside
the eastern gate; the place where he was let down
the wall in a basket ; the house of Ananias ; the
street called Straight, &c. all alluded to in the
ninth chapter of the Acts of the Apostles. For a
decription of these places, as well as of the town
in general, I must refer you to Maundrell, who
describes every thing in Damascus that is worth
notice. The Turks call it Shum, or Shem, and
the friars of the convent think it was originally
founded by Shem, the son of Noah ; the earliest
information we have of this place is in the time
of Abraham (3T).
We shall proceed to the Holy Land in a few
days by Panias, near to which place is the source
of the Jordan ; thence crossing the bridge of Jacob.

LETTER III.] SYRIA. 283
we go to Nazareth, Tiberias, Nablous, Jericho, and
Jerusalem. In consequence of a letter from Mr.
Barker, we have received great assistance from
Monsieur Chaboceau, physician to the pashaw of
this place, and through his assistance we have
got another firman for the paschalic, and a
letter for the governor of Jerusalem, from whom
we wish, if possible, to get guides to conduct us
to Mount Sinai. Whether we succeed or not in
getting to Mount Sinai, we shall return by Jerusa
lem to Acre, and then embark for Cyprus, whence
we proceed for the coast of Asia Minor, beginning
by Tarsus, which will conduct us to Smyrna, the
site of Troy, and finally, Constantinople. We
find by a letter left here for us by Mr. Bankes,
that he quitted Damascus on the 10th of January,
with an escort to make the tour of the Hauran,
and passing to the eastward to cross the southern'
point of the Dead Sea to Jerusalem. He was so
good as to wait here in hopes of our joining him,
but a letter from Mr. Barker mentioning our
detention at Aleppo, and our final plans of Pal
myra, obliged him to give up his design. He
left us some information about the site of the
ancient Abilah, as well as some inscriptions he
found provirig it so, at five hours' distance from

284 TRAVELS IN [LETTER III.
this town. But we have neither the time, intelli
gence, books, or money, to enable us to follow
this excellent traveller through his researches.
We hope to meet him at Jerusalem.

LETTER IV.

TOUR IN SYRIA.
Departure from Damascus. — Arrive at Panias. — Safot.
— Tiberias.— Om Keis. — Callah-el-Hammam. — Erbed.
: — Bysan. — Tabathat Fahkil. — Hallawye. — Cafringee.
— Callah-el-Rubbat. — Adjeloun. — Eugen. — Souf. —
Djerash. — Szalt. — Athan. — Gilhad Gilhood. — Bait
Forage. — Kaffer Baiter. — Nablous. — Arrival at Je
rusalem. Jerusalem, April 30, 1818.
I hope our Damascus letters have reached you,
which will have accounted for our proceedings
up to the latter end of February, on the twenty-
third of which month we left that delightful city for
the source of the Jordan. About noon we quitted
the plain of Damascus, over a slight eminence
into another, through which runs a fine stream,
but the plain being destitute of wood, has less
beauty than that we quitted, though the soil is
rich. About four in the afternoon, we stopped
at the khan of the village of Sasa. Hitherto we
had followed the road from Damascus to Jacob's

286 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
Bridge, at that part of the Jordan which lies
between the lakes Houle and Tiberias.
February 24. We passed to the westward
for Panias. The first part of the road led through
a fine plain, watered by a pretty, winding rivulet,
with numerous tributary streams, and many
old ruined mills, from whence " we began to
ascend over a very rugged and rocky soil quite
void of vegetation, having in some places traces
of an ancient paved way, probably the Roman
road leading from Damascus to Caesarea Phi
lippi; as we ascended we had the highest part of
Djebail Sheikh (Anti-Lebanon), on our right ;
we found the snow in some places of considerable
depth, and difficult to cross with our horses. The
road now became gradually less stony, and we
found flocks of goats browsing on a rich verdure,
in places from whence the stones had been cleared
away and piled up in great heaps. We also
came to a few shrubs, which gradually increased
in number, size, and beauty, until we had de
scended into a very rich little plain at the im
mediate foot of Djebail Sheikh. There is a con
spicuous tomb in this valley, and a rivulet which
appears to take its source at the foot of the
mountains, passes along the western side of the
plain in a southerly direction, when its course
turns more to the westward, and rushing in a

LETTER IV.] SYRIA. 287
very picturesque manner, through a deep chasm*
covered by shrubs of various descriptions, it joins
the Jordan at "Panias ;" it is marked in Arrow-
smith's ehart as the real source, which is the
reason why I have given you this tedious detail,
for the source of the Jordan is a subject of much
dispute; the fountains at Panias, which are by
far the most copious, though not the most dis
tant from the Dead Sea, where the river ter
minates, are generally called the source ; an
opinion in which we both agree. From this
plain we ascended up its southern side, and after
passing a very small village about one o'clock,
we saw on our left, close to us, a very pictu
resque lake, apparently perfectly circular, of
little more than a mile in circumference, sur
rounded on all sides by sloping hills richly
wooded. The singularity of this lake is, that
it has no apparent supply or discharge, and its
waters appeared perfectly still, though clear
and limpid; a great many wild-fowl were swim
ming in it. It appears that this lake has only
been remarked by Burkhardt and Seetzen, those
who have gone from Damascus to Panias having
taken the route by Raschia and Hasbeya; Arrow-
smith's map notices the lake by the name of the
Birket-el Ram (according to Seetzen). Josephus
(Jewish Wars, b. 3. c. 10. § 7.) mentions it under

288 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
the name of " Phiala" (cup), in allusion to the
shape of the lake. It was supposed by the
ancients to be the real source of the Jordan; a
passage in the Jewish historian notices, that they
threw straw into the lake, which came out at the
apparent source at " Panias." But this is impossi
ble, for to arrive at Panias, its discharge must
pass under the rivulet which Arrowsmith points
out as the true source. On quitting Phiala, at
but a short distance from it, we crossed a stream
which discharges into the larger one which we first
saw; the latter we followed for a considerable
distance, and then mounting up the hill to the
S. W. had in view the great Saracenic castle near
Panias, the town of that name, and the plain
of the Jordan as far the lake Houle, together
with the mountains on the other side of the
plain, forming altogether a fine coup d'ceil. As we
descended towards Panias we found the country
extremely beautiful, great quantities of wild-
flowers, and a variety of shrubs just budding,
together with the richness of the verdure of the
grass, corn, and beans, shewed us all at once the
beauties of spring, and conducted us into a
climate (although the difference of latitude is
comparatively trifling) quite different from that
of Damascus, or of the country which we had
passed through since we left that city. About

LETTER IV.] SYRIA. 289
five in the evening we entered Panias, crossing
a causeway constructed over the rivulet, which
as before stated, flows from the foot of Dgebail
Sheikh. The river here rushes over great
rocks in a very picturesque manner, its banks
being covered with shrubs and the ruins of
the ancient walls, but whether the ruins are
Saracenic or not I cannot say. The present
town of Panias is small, the ground it stands
on is of a triangular form, inclosed by the
Jordan on one side, the rivulet on the other,
and the mountain at the back; from this com
pressed situation, we think the ancient Panias,
afterwards Caesarea Philippi could not have
been of great extent. Ancient authors (see
Josephus' Jewish Antiquities, b. xv. 10. § 3.)
mention a temple built by Herod, but we could
find no trace of such an edifice. The apparent
source of the Jordan flows from under a cave at
the foot of a precipice, in the sides of which are
several niches with Greek inscriptions.

Copied from barkhardr, by permission of Col. Leake.
U

290 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
The neighbourhood of Panias is very beautiful,
richly wooded, and abonnds in game ; as we had
seen a variety of birds the preceding evening, we
employed a part of the morning of the twenty-
fifth in shooting, but had poor sport, though we
saw plenty of partridges, wild ducks, snipe, &c.
Having: been directed to follow the Jordan to the
lake Houle, we endeavoured, on leaving Panias at
eleven o'clock, to perform this route. The beau
tifully wooded country does not continue more
than two miles, when we entered into open but
rich plains. We found the ground very marshy,
after winding about to find fords over, the nume
rous streams which water the plain, we Grossed
the Jordan itself ; but the country on the other
side was as full of marshes and swamps as that
we had left, and in several places we nearly lost
the horses ; at last we succeeded in reaching the
road to Safot, which runs at the foot of the hills
on the other side of the plain, and to have taken
which, in the first instance, we ought to have
passed round the north end of the whole valley.
Loss of time in these bogs occasioned our
arriving no further on our journey this evening,
than a village by the side of a hill in the neigh
bourhood of the N. W. end of lake Houle ; the
banks of this lake are very low, the hills not
approaching it in any part.

LETTER IV.] SYRIA. 29 1
May 26. 'We ascended from hence to Safot,
the plain which we had quirted was literally
covered with wild geese, ducks, widgeon, snipe,
and water-fowl of every description. Mounting
up to Safot, there is a village at the foot of
the steep ascent, in which are a few Roman
ruins. As we ascended, the lakes of Houle arid
Tiberias opened' to us' with" much grandeur, and
part of the plain of the Jordan added to' the
beauty of the scene. The country in the moun
tains is generally cultivated. The situation of
Safot is extremely beautiful ; the castle is on a
small hill, standing by itself ; the town appears' to
consist of four distinct villages at the foot1 of it.
The approach is' very fine, and the country
abounds in olives, vines, and almond trees, which
are now in blossom. The lake of Tiberias is
visible from some part Of the town, which, from its
elevated situation, Maundrell thinks is the same
alluded to by our Saviour (38). ItS ancient name
appears in ArrOWsmith's map as Japhet. We
were detained by raihy weather at Safot until
the afternoon of the twenty-eighth, when we
proceeded for Tiberias, but only reached anoldf
ruined khan, about two miles to the north of
the village of Madjdala by the lake's side," that
night. Here we were dreadfully bitten by a red
sort' of vermin which is the annoyance of camels

292 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
in this country ; it was soft like a maggot. In
the morning we found ourselves studded all over
with deep crimson spots, from which it would
appear that there is much venom in the bite of
this disgusting animal. I shall take this op
portunity of remarking, that a traveller in these
countries, however much the very thoughts may
shock him at first, must make up his mind, and
reconcile his feelings, to being constantly covered
with lice and fleas ; we kill every day from ten
to twenty of these guests, which are always to
be found on every mat or cushion used in the
country. These nauseous visitors seldom get
into the head, but crawl about your shirt and
clothes. Every native you see in the country
is covered with vermin, and if you ask why
they have such a plentiful store, while we are
comparatively so little annoyed by them, they tell
you " it is the curse of God on them." The other
day I cut my foot, and our Arab Seys, (the same
that has accompanied us all the way from Yaffa,) .
who is always washing himself, and is a very
cleanly person, tore off a small piece of the sleeve
of his shirt for my hurt ; the piece was about
three inches long, by two wide, and before using
it, I killed three lice and two fleas on it ; this will
speak more than all I can say on the subject.
Bugs are also very plentiful, and in Egypt our
rooms were full of them.

LETTElt IV.] SYRIA. 293
March 1. Our road this day was generally on
a descent, passing through a beautiful and wild
country covered with shrubs of various descrip
tions, and crossing occasionally over valleys and
rivulets. About four miles from Safot there is a
picturesque cliff, the sides of which are perforated
with a great number of caves, at present inhabited
by goatherds; we supposed* them to be ancient
sepulchres, as indeed have other travellers who
have not thought them, from their ruined appear
ance, worthy of examination; but Mr. Bankes,
who leaves nothing unexplored, inspected them a
few days afterwards, and pronounces them to be
only natural cavities. About eight o'clock we
reached Tiberias, having travelled about two
hours along the side of the lake; we had occa
sion to observe that more pains appeared to have
been taken to construct the road where it was
very rocky, than in most parts of Syria which
we had visited. The modern town of Tiberias
is very small; it stands close to the lake of
Gennesaret, and is walled round with towers
at equal distances. At the northern extremity of
the ruins are the remains of the ancient town,
which are discernible by means of the walls and
other ruined buildings, as well as by fragments
of columns, some of which are of beautiful red
granite. South of the town are the famous hot

294 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
baths of Tiberias; they consist of three springs
of nnneral water; we had no thermometer, but
we found the water too hot to admit of the hand
being kept in it for more than fifty seconds; we
endeavoured to boil an egg but without success,
even out of the shell. Over the spring is a Turkish
bath close to the lake's side, which is much resorted
to, particularly by the Jews, who have a great ve
neration also for a Roman sepulchre, which is ex
cavated in the cliff near the spot, and which
they take to be the " Tomb of Jacob." Beyond
the baths a wall runs from the lake to the
mountain's side, which rather perplexed us when
we were taking the measures of the ancient walls
of Tiberias; but it has since appeared evident
that the walls did not extend so far to the south,
and that this was the fortification of Vespasian's
camp, as appears from Josephus (see Jewish
Wars, b. 3. c. 10. § 1.), who places it in this posi
tion- The lake of Tiberias is a fine sheet of
water, but the land about it has no striking
features, and the scenery is altogether devoid of
character. It appeared to particular disadvantage
to us after those beautiful lakes we had seen in
Switzerland; but it becomes a very interesting ob
ject, when you consider the frequent allusions to it
in the gospel. We were lodged as Frank travel
lers usually are, in the small catholic church,

LETTER TV.] SYRIA. 295
which is under the direction of an Arab priest;
this they tell you is the identical house of St.
Peter; but after we had been there a few days,
we observed that one of the stones of the build
ing had part of an inverted Arabic inscription on
it, which proves it to be of much more modern
origin; Doctor Clarke, however, seems to believe
the assertion of the natives. We found this church
so full of fleas, that we preferred a small open
court in front of it for our lodging. The natives
have a saying, " that the king of the fleas has his
court in Tabaria;" if he has, his subjects are ex
tremely numerous. We here lived on fish, which
are most excellent; there is not much variety, but
the best sort is the most common; it is a species
of bream, equal to the finest perch. It is re
markable that there is not a single boat of
any description on the lake at present, and the
fish are caught with casting nets from the beach,
a method which must yield a very small quantity
compared to what they would get with boats.
I imagine this to be the reason why fish are so
dear, as to be sold at the same price per pound
as meat. It was on this lake that the miracu
lous draught of fishes took place (39). There is
a current throughout the whole breadth of the lake
even to the shore; the passage of the Jordan
through it, is observable by the smooth state of
the water's surface in that part.

296 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
March 2. Mr. Bankes arrived after having
made a complete tour of the Haouran, andpassed
.round the lake of Tiberias. He proposed that we
- should join him in a tour, which he contemplated
beyond the Jordan, and round the Dead Sea to
Jerusalem ; he had expressed a wish to this effect
at Aleppo, and had left a letter at Damascus
to. the same, purport. We accordingly embraced
the . opportunity of accompanying him ; though
it is due to Mr. Bankes to notice here, that we
had ourselves totally abandoned all idea of mak
ing the tour of the Dead Sea, as a hopeless un
dertaking, notwithstanding we had our poor friend
Burkhardt's notes to aid and assist us ; Mr. B. was,
however, resolved to make the attempt alone if
we could not have joined him: while Mr. Bankes
made a short visit to Safot, which he had not yet
seen, we , determined to inspect Om Keis (the
ancient Gadara), in the country of the Gada-
renes (40).
March 4. We quitted Tiberias at eleven, and
following the shore of the lake till we came to
the site of the ancient Tarichea, proceeded to a
ford of the Jordan, situated close to the ruins of
a Roman bridge, a few hundred yards from the
lake's discharge, thence we passed by the village
of Semmack (Arabic for fish) at the south end
of the lake, and turning' to the southward, in

LETTER IV.] SYRIA. 297
about half an hour crossed the river Yarmack or
Hieromax, a very pretty stream, tributary to the
Jordan. There is a small ancient site in this
position, but it contains nothing of interest; the
map marks it " Amatha." From hence we as
cended the mountains by a very steep road, and
before sun-set arrived at Om Keis; we were
very kindly received by the sheikh of the na
tives who inhabit the ancient sepulchres; the
tomb we lodged in was capable of containing be
tween twenty and thirty people ; it was of an
oblong form, and the cattle, &c. occupied one end,
while the proprietor and his family lodged in
the other ; it was near this spot that the
people lived in the tombs during the time of
our Saviour ("). The walls of the ancient Ga-
dara are still easily discernible; within them
you find the pavement of the city very perfect ;
the traces of the chariot wheels are still marked
in the stones. We found the remains of a row
of columns which lined the main street on either
side; two theatres, in tolerable preservation,
are within the walls, and without them, to the
northward, is the Necropolis ; the sepulchres, which
are all under ground, are hewn out of the live rock,
and the doors which are very massy, are cut out of
immense blocks of stone; some of these are now
standing, and actually working on their hinges,

298 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
and used by the natives ; of- -course the hinge is
nothing but a part of the stone left projecting at
each end, and let into a socket cut in the rock ;
tfie face of the doors were cut in the shape of
pannels. From hence we had a fine view of the
lake of Tiberias.
March 5. In the morning we descended to
the N, E. into the plain of the Yarmack, to visit
the hot springs there; they are not so hot as
those of Tiberias. One of them is inclosed by
palm-trees in a very picturesque manner; it is of
great depth, and its surface is covered by a
species of red moss, somewhat resembling sponge
before it has been purified: this the natives
told us they apply to their camels when they
have ascertain cutaneous disorder. The ruins of
a Roman bath are at the source ; we found se
veral sick persons at these springs who had come
to use the waters. Hence we followed the
Yarmack until we came near to the place where
we had crossed it the preceding evening, and
returned by dusk to Tiberias. From the sixth
to the tenth, we employed ourselves in measur
ing the circuit of the ancient city, and in
making researches in the neighbourhood. Mr.
Bankes had discovered a curious ancient forti
fication, situated to the west of Magdala on
the north side of the entrance of a ravine;

LETTER IV.J SYRIA. 299
there is a high perpendicular cliff, which from
its projecting situation and steep sides, forms
a natural barrier on two sides of a triangle,
the other side being defended by a wall of
rough masonry, with numerous projecting tur
rets. Mr. B. made a plan of it ; we were two
days in taking the measurements. The na
tives call it Callah-el-Hammam, (Castle of the
Pigeons,) but no ancient authors, that we have
seen, give any clue to its origin. It may possibly be
the. ancient " Jotapata" where Josephus was taken;
and the city demolished by Vespasian (see Jewish
Wars, b. 3. c. 7- § 3.). It is certainly very
antique, and Mr. B. thinks prior to the time -of
the Romans; in which case the Bible will be as
good authority as any to search for a fortified
camp in this direction. The village of Erbed,
in whieh there are a few Roman ruins, stands in
a plain at the foot of the Mount Beatitude, on
the opposite side of the ravine. There are some
curious old convents in the side of the cliff, on
the left in going from the village of Majdil (the
ancient Magdala) to the Callah-el-Hammam;
these convents are very singular, being built
several stories high in the perpendicular cliff,
with galleries, &c. About two miles south of
Majdil are the ruins of six Roman baths of mi
neral water, but only of a luke-warm temperature.

300 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
The baths are circular (from fifteen to twenty
feet in diameter,) inclosed with • a wall about
twelve feet high within, and six without; at
present there is no apparent means of ingress
or egress. The spot where they are is now
very picturesque, being close to the lake,
and overgrown with shrubs, weeds, and wild
flowers; the water is very clear, and about six
or seven feet deep, with pebbles at the bottom;
there are also fish, sporting about in them; the
spring discharges itself into the lake, subterra-
neously, through the wall. We swam to the
Scorpion Rock mentioned by Josephus, but found
no scorpions on it.
March 10. In the forenoon we left Tiberias
and observed, in following the borders of the lake,
one of the circular towers with part of the wall of
the ancient town on that side. We left the hot
baths about noon; drawing towards the southern
extremity of the lake, we observed, on our right,
at the foot of the hills, an extensive aqueduct,
and at the entrance are traces of the walls of
Tarichea, which appears to have been situated on
two eminences, one on the right of our road, and
the other bordering on the discharge of the lake,
by the Jordan; this latter appears to have been
artificially surrounded by water on the other sides.
The Jordan winds extremely here, but has little

LETTER IV. J SYRIA. 301
current. The ruins of the Roman bridge (alluded
to in going to Om Keis) had ten arches : the road
continues from, hence through rather a naked
country, with occasional views of the river. About
three o'clock we came to a khan near a bridge;
they are both rather picturesque objects; the
bridge consists of an arch in the centre, with small
arches upon arches on the sides. About one hour
beyond this, we observed by the road side a Roman
mile-stone, but there were only two or three dis
tinct letters visible on it. Farther on, the pavement
of the ancient road is perceivable, and about two
miles from Bysan we saw a sarcophagus on the
brow of a slight eminence on the right of the road ;
hence we crossed a small stream and ascended to
Bysan about dusk ; during the latter part of this
day's journey we remarked a great number of Arab
camps. Bysan is supposed to be the Bethshan of
scripture, afterwards called Scythopolis, the
largest city of the Decapolis, and the only one
on that side of the Jordan. It was to the wall
of Bethshan, that the body of Saul was fastened
after he was slain (*8).
March 1 1. We employed ourselves in inspect
ing the ruins. The principal object is the theatre
which is quite distinct, but now completely filled
with weeds; it measures across the front, as well
as we can remember, one hundred and eighty feet,

302 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
and it has this singularity above all other theatres
that we have ever seen, viz. that those oval reces
ses half way up the theatre, mentioned by Vitru
vius as being constructed to contain the brass
sounding tubes* are found here ; as Mr. B. had not
lately read Vitruvius, we were quite at a loss
what use to apply these very curious cells to '
there are seven of them, and Vitruvius mentions
that even in his day very few theatres had them-
We were lucky enough to find this useful author
in the library of the convent while at Jerusalem.
We were very careful in taking a very correct
plan of this theatre, attending to every minute
particular. We found twenty-four sculls and other bones
in one of the most concealed vomitories; in one
of the sculls a viper Was basking with his body
twisted between the eyes* presenting a good
subject for a moralizer. The other remains are
the tombs, which are interesting enough ; they lie
to the N. E. of the Acropolis, without the walls ;
the sarcophagi remain in some of them ; we were
interested in finding the niches, of a triangular
shape* for the lamps ; some of the doors were also
hanging on the ancient hinges of stone, in remark
able preservation. Two streams run through
the ruins of the city, almost insulating the Acro
polis ; there is a fine Roman bridge over the one

LETTER IV.J SYRIAN 303
to the S. W. of the Acropolis, and beyond it
may be seen the paved way which led to the an
cient Ptolemais, now Acre. The plains extend
in this direction to the sea-coast, without any
intervening mountains. On the other side the
walls of the town cross the rivulet- (a little below
where both unite in one stream) in a singular
manner; one high arch in the centre, with a
smaller on each end of it, appear to have formed a
bridge, and on the outside the wall of the city
was continued on the edge of the bridge. It
would appear as if the centre arch had been
blocked up. by a grating, allowing the stream to
pass through ; the outer part of the other two
smaller arches was walled up. On the hill near
this arch the ruins; of one of the gates • of the city
are very distinguishable, and amongst the remains
are prostrate columns of Corinthian architecture.
The Acropolis is a high circular hill, on the top1
of which are the traces of the walls which en
compassed it. The people are a fanatical set.
March 12. At eight o'clock in the morning we
left Bysan. Near the. town are the ruins of many'
subterranean granaries (*3). Taking guides for ford1-
ing the Jordan from an Arab camp, we reached*
its banks in one hour and twenty minutes ; we ob
served them to be very prettily wooded, although
the more distant parts of the plains' are quite*

304 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
destitute of trees. Near the ford, at about half a
mile to the south, is a tomb called " Sheikh Daoud,"
standing on an apparent round hill resembling a
barrow. The stream of the Jordan is here much
more swift than in that part near the lake of
Tiberias ; the depth at the ford reached above
the bellies of the horses. We measured the
breadth, and found it to be one hundred and forty
feet; we bathed here. From the Jordan we
turned to the right of the path to see " Tabathat
Fahkil," which we reached in about half an hour ;
here the ruins of a modern village stand on a hill,
bearing E. S. E. from the Acropolis of Bysan; and
in a plain to the west of it are the ruins of a
square building, with a semi-circular end, which
appears to have been surrounded by columns; on
the east and south side of the hill are considerable
ruins of some ancient city which must have been
of great extent. The situation is beautiful, being
on the side of a ravine, with a picturesque stream
running at the bottom. As this place appears to
be as ancient as the ruins of Scythopolis, and
full two-thirds of its size, it appears unac
countable that history should not mention a place
so near " the principal city of the Decapolis" as
this is; we searched for inscriptions, but in vain.
The ruins of a fine temple are situated near the wa
ter-side, and amongst the columns are discovered

LETTER IV.J SYRIA. 305
the three orders of architecture, Doric, Ionic,
and Corinthian ; the river passing to the south,
finally communicates with the Jordan. Crossing
the rivulet, and following a path to the southward'
we were conducted to a small plain very thickly
set with herbage, and particularly the mustard
plant, reaching as high as our horses heads ;
looking from thence to the eastward we observed
several excavations in the side of the hills ; these
are probably the Necropolis, for Mr. Bankes was
informed of several tombs in that direction, re
sembling those at Bysan and Om Keis, which
information was confirmed at Hallawye. Finding
no path this way, we re-crossed the rivulet, and
proceeding to the north rejoined the track from
the Jordan, which we had originally quitted to visit
Tabathat Fahkil ; from hence we began to ascend,
passing through occasional hill and vale, well
wooded, the country gradually increasing in
beauty. On our left we saw the spot where
Elijah was fed by the ravens (**) ; there are many
villages in this direction.
March 13. We slept at Hallawye. In the
morning we continued our route, and - passed
through the most beautiful woodland scenery,
with the gall oak, wild olive; arbutus, &c. &c. in
great luxuriance, and a variety of wild flowers j
such as the cyclamen, crimson anemone, &c. on a
x

306 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
rich soil. We arrived in three hours at a village
called Cafringee, situated, at the southern ex
tremity of the valley of Adjeloun _(45). There are
sufficient fragments amongst the rubbish and
buildings of Cafringee, to judge that there was
once a Roman town or some edifiee on the spot.
We remained here about an hour, and then send
ing our baggage by the vale to the village of
Adjeloun, proceeded, in company with the prin
cipal sheikh of the neighbourhood* to the Callah-
el-Rubbat, situated on an eminence, an hour's dis
tance, to the N. N. W. About half way up the
hill we were shewn a great cave, the most ex
tensive natural one we had seen in Syria; this,
supposing the valley to be the same with that
alluded to in Joshua, ch. x. may be the " cave
of Makkedah," in which the five . kings hid
themselves and were buried (*6). _ The'Callah-el-
Rubbat commands, by its elevated situation,
a most extensive view of the plain of -the Jordan,
the lakes Asphaltes and Tiberias, and a vast
tract of country in every direction. Indeed*, for
several days we had constantly this castle in view
from all quarters (*7) ; unluckily for us the weather
was too hazy to admit of our profiting much by
our situation; but we fully examined every part
of the castle, which is entirely of Turkish archi
tecture, and has an Arabic inscription in one of

LETTER IV.J SYRIA. 307
the centre stones. The building is constructed out
of the rock, which they have excavated to form the
moat round it. There are some tanks near the
castle ; we now descended to the village to pass
the night. We found at Adjeloun, in the court of
an old mosque, a Roman mile-stone, and in the
building itself, several fragments of Roman sculp
ture. The next day we went to Souf. Half an
hour from Adjeloun, we passed through the village
of Eugen ; here are some Roman tombs, and two
sarcophagi cut in the live rock. From hence,
towards Souf, the road led through a narrow and
picturesque valley, with a fine view of the Callah-
el-Rubbat behind us. This vale opens at the
further end into a plain, whence the road passes
through a woody, uneven country, extremely beau
tiful. We here observed the arbutus of unusual
dimensions and great beauty ; one tree was about
six feet in ' circumference, and in some instances
the Valonia oak' and arbutus andrachne were
growing grafted together, probably from the
acorn or berry of either having accidently drop-
pedihto some crack, in the stem of the other,
and taken root. The Roman. road is discerni
ble beyond this situation" as yon advance into
a -plain near1 Souf ; we saw likewise three Roman
mlle-stOries ne&r to each other ; it is about two
hours and a half's journey from Adjeloun to Souf.

308 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
Souf is a small village situated on the side of
a hill; in the vale below it is the source of
a stream which runs through the valley. At the
fountain is an imperfect Greek inscription, and in
the ruins of a church in the village a mile-stone,
together with an altar having a Greek inscription.
At three in the afternoon, we went with three
armed natives of Souf to Djerash. We took the
shortest road over the hills one hour, and after
taking a general view of the ruins, returned to
Souf by a valley to the N. E. of that place.
This latter road is very beautifully wooded, hav
ing a picturesque stream, with its banks covered
with the oleander. We found the natives of Souf
a very rude set of people, constantly annoying us
with stories about the dytchmaan or enemies,
alluding to the Salhaan Arabs, who are encamped
near Djerash ; but it was evidently done with a
view to induce, us to have a strong escort from the
village every time we went to Djerash, which
as they asked two piastres per man each trip, was
well worth their pains. In consequence of these
remonstrances, we went on the 15th to Djerash
again, accompanied by the sheikh of Souf and
ten of his people. We employed ourselves in
taking measures of one of the temples ; our at
tendants annoyed us in the meantime with officious
remarks on their use in protecting us against the

LETTER IV .J SYRIA. 309
Arabs ; two of these arrived, armed with pikes,
during the day, but they were very quiet ; they
were on horseback. We returned to Souf rather
early in the afternoon.
• March 16. It rained hard; but had it been
fine, the natives of Souf refused to attend us any
more to Djerash, telling us the old story of their
terror of the dytchmaan. In the afternoon the
interpreter and soldier of Mr. Bankes arrived, with
a young prince of the Benesuckher Arabs and ten
of his men, all of the Benesuckher tribe ; the
prince, named Ebyn Fayes, was attended by his
mace-bearer ; the mace was of iron, hollow, and
about two feet long. They were well mounted
and armed, and as they galloped down the hill,
firing their pistols and manoeuvring with their
spears, they made a curious and interesting ap
pearance. Mr. B. had dispatched the interpreter
and soldier from Adjeloun to the Benesuckher
camp, for a guard to conduct us to the several
places lying east of the Jordan and Dead Sea
which we wished to visit : he had a list of
places which Burkhardt had visited, and a note of
his route by Kerek and Wady Mousa, intending to
pass from the latter to the south end of the Dead
Sea, and by Hebron to Jerusalem. The interpre
ter, however, could only make a bargain with
these people as far as Kerek, as they said they

310 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
were at war with the tribes beyond that place,
and could go no further. As the places beyond
Kerek were the most difficult to. reach, there
seemed to be little hope of performing the whole of
the journey under their protection ; we, however,
kept them for the present, hoping if we reached
Kerek with them, to pursue the further object of
our journey by other means ; as the natives of
Kerek are mostly Christians, and in the habit of
making their pilgrimage to Jerusalem by that
route. Volney mentions a report by the, Arabs,
" that there are to. the, S- E» of the lake AsphaL
tes, within three days' journey, upwards, of three
hundredi ^ruined towns < absolutely deserted;" se
veral have large, edifices with columns. "This
was the country of the Nabatheans, the most po
tent of the Arabs and of the Iduma3ans,.who at the
time of the destruction of Jerusalem were almost
as numerous as the Jews." (See Josephus.)
Qur lamented friend Sheikh Ibrahim, in his notes,
tells us, that three days south from Kerek are the
ruins of Petra, the capital of the ancient Arabia
Petrsea in the Wady Mousa. Here are wonder?
fully fine temples cut out of, the rock, and
more than two hundred sepulchres, to use his
own expression. Since the death of the poor
sheikh, no European living has seen this place,, or
indeed the others to the S. E. of the Dead Sea.

LETTER IV.J SYRIA. 3 1 I
Hebron is -the ancient Kiriath Arba, and is said
to be of higher antiquity than Memphis ; to see
the site of such a place, exites no ordinary degree
of interest. Abraun or Hebron, is the place also
where Abraham died. I should now add, that the
bargain which awe had made with the Arabs was
to conduct us safe to Kerek for one thousand
piastres; Mr. B. unfortunately paid the whole of
the money before hand, and to this unfortunate
step, we owe all the tricks they afterwards played
us. March 17. We quitted Souf with our Arab
guard, and passed the day in taking further
measurements at Djerash. We took this day
the length of the main street, the Ionic oval,
the length from the S. W. gate to the Circus,
which is outside the town to the south, and the
dimensions of the stadium and the triumphal
arch near it.' It was this day that the Arabs
got Mr. Bankes to pay all the money in ad
vance ; and from that moment commenced a
regular train of impositions and falsehoods on
their part, which in the end induced us to leave
them and to abandon the journey. In dealing
with these Arabs one should never pay them a
para in advance, but make a bargain that they
are to receive nothing till they have completed
their contract. They are a cunning set of people,
who behave well when they are kept in check

3,12 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
in this manner, but when once paid before hand,
they continue to teaze you for more and
more, and having received the whole of their
agreement, consider you as completely in their
power, and do as they like with you ; perhaps
few people, since Lady H. S. spoiled the market
for Palmyra, have succeeded so quietly with them
as we did in going to that place ; and this was
certainly owing to our persisting in not paying a
para till the agreement was fulfilled. In the
evening we went to Katty, a village one hour
distant to the W. N. W^ of Djerash, in a beau
tiful situation, and passed the night there ; the
Arabs here made a demand for money to feed
themselves, and we agreed with them for thirty
piastres per day.
March 18. This -morning we went to Djerash
again; we measured this day the walls of the
town, and the 'principal temple. Some of the
Salhaan Arabs appearing in the distance, our
Benesuckher friends galloped off to parley with
them, and we were constantly teazed about the
dytchmaan. We went this night, by the desire
of our conductors, to a small camp of the Sal-
haans, lying one hour and a half to the S. E. of
Djerash, although they had been continually call
ing them their enemies. On our way they tried
to persuade Mr, Bankes to give a horse to the
Salhaans; this request took place in a valley about

LETTER IV. J SYRIA. 313
half an hour distant, and was made in a very
mysterious manner; on Mr. B.'s refusal they at
first stopped to go somewhere else, but finally
conducted us to the camp, and said they would
give up one of their own horses, and even went
through the ceremony of parading , their present
before the tent we were in. We never ascer-r
tained whether the animal was really given, but
we rather suppose that it was an attempt to
induce us to part with one of our horses.
March 19. We went in the morning to ex
amine a place called Reashy, but found nothing
there of consequence. The Benesuckher Arabs
refused to go to Djerash excusing themselves
by saying they had fear, of the Salhaans; we
were very anxious to finish the plan of Djerash,
no person having ever published on these antiqui
ties ; and, indeed, they were unknown to Europeans
until Mr. Seetzen, discovered them in ] 806. I
believe Mr. B., Sir W. Chatterton, Mr. Leslie,
Sheikh Ibrahim, and Mr. Buckingham, are the
only Europeans who have seen them. The Arabs
were now told that , Mr. B. would give up the
researches he had intended to make on the banks
of the Zerka in favour of Djerash; we accordingly
set out in that direction with three of the Arabs,
the remainder proceeding with our baggage from
the Salhaan camp to Katty. In our way we
ascended to Nebi Hood, a village situated on the

314 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
summit of a hill S. S. E. of Djerash; the village
is at present deserted; we found a Greek
inscription on an altar in the court-yard of one
of the houses. We were going from hence to
Djerash, when one of the three Arabs who ac
companied us, and had advanced a little in front,
returned to inform us that six of the Salhaan
Arabs were waiting near Djerash to interceptTis,
We accordingly returned to join some more of
the Benesuckher party, after having first recon
noitred ourselves. We Soon met the remainder
of our escort on their way to Katty, and there
fore proceeded with them all, and had a parley
with the six Salhaans, who after some conversa
tion, irt which they said that " they wanted heads
not money," told the Benesuckhers that we
had their permission to remain at Djerash till the
afternoon of this day. Our Benesuckher friends
and ourselves laughed heartily at them, as the
circumstances of their being enabled to bring
only six armed men to intercept us, was ho great
proof of their force . We endeavoured to finish with
Djerash this day, but though we were at work till
dark (Irby and myself measuring, and Mr. Bankes
drawing* copying inscriptions, &c); we could not
complete our work : in the course of this day
Mr. Bankes was robbed of his cap by an armed
Arab, who, having concealed himself amongst the
ruins of the great theatre, stole on him unper-

LETTER IV.] SYRIA. 3 15
ceived while he was drawing. We passed the night
at Katty; just as we arrived a great quarrel en
sued between the Benesuckhers : and the villa
gers; the scene of action was on the house tops.
It is a custom in the country, that travellers are
fed gratis for one night; and there is in every
Turkish village a room to lodge them in. Eu
ropean travellers generally, on departing, make
a present to the servants, at least equivalent to
what has been consumed. I mentioned before
that we had given the Arabs thirty piastres
per day to feed themselves; these cunning fellows,
however, wanted to force the villagers to feed
them, although they had been there before on
therinight. of the seventeenth, and as the poor
people had to feed the horses gratis, as well as
the men, it came very hard on them. We paid
for every thing we got, and we assured the villa
gers that the Benesuckhers were provided with
money to pay for all they had. Perhaps a more
curious battle never took place, for although
there was much appearance of anger and rage, and
the greatest noise and confusion imaginable, men,
women, and children, all mixed together pell
mell, nevertheless all were cautious to avoid
blows, and the ;affray ended, to the advantage of
the poor natives, the Benesuckhers retreating
from the village ; we remained.
March 20. We went in the morning to Djerash

316 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
to finish our operations; a very singular circum
stance here took place., Mr. B.'s soldier .of Damas
cus, whom he had always found very useful and
attached, had within the last two or three days
very much altered his manners and conduct, and
exhibited strong proofs of fear, both in words
and actions; on our way to Djerash he told us
frequently that the Arabs would strip us all of every
thing, and while Mr. Bankes was taking a copy
of . an inscription near the north gate of the city,
the soldier very slowly, without making any
further observations, walked off, and was never
seen any more. On the preceding evening he said
he had received; information of some Damascus
troops having arrived at a town a few hours'
distant, and asked permission to depart in the
night to procure them for our protection ; how
ever, he did not then go* as the villagers persuaded
him to the contrary; we, of course, imagined that
this was his object in setting off, and that finding
the report false, he had returned to Damascus.
Two spy-glasses were found missing, which Mr.
B. had with him, to make presents of; we did
not, however, suspect him of any roguery in this
respect, although he certainly took the interpre
ter's gun, leaving his own, which was worse. This
theft we afterwards heard was proved; the Arabs
denied having taken the telescopes. It was two
o'clock in the afternoon before we had completed

LETTER IV. J SYRIA. 317
our operations at Djerash, which place I will
now add a few remarks on. It has been a splen
did city, built on two sides of a valley, with a
fine stream running through it ; the situation is
beautiful. The town has been principally com
posed of two main streets, crossing each other in
the centre at right angles, like Antinoe. The
streets have been lined with a double row of
columns, some of which are Ionic and some Co
rinthian; the pavement is exceedingly good, and
there is an elevated space on each side for foot
passengers; the marks of the chariot wheels are
visible in many parts of the streets. Djerash, sup
posed to be either Pella or Gerasa, but in some
respects answering to neither, can boast of more
public edifices than any city we have seen.
There are two theatres, two grand temples, one,
as appears by a Greek inscription, dedicated to
the sun, like that at Palmyra, and not unlike
that edifice, being constructed in the centre of
an immense double peristyle court. The diameter
of the columns of the temple is five feet, and the
height of just proportions ; the capitals are Co
rinthian and well executed. One singularity in
this edifice is a chamber under ground, below the
principal hall of the. temple, with, a bath in the
centre. ¦ Five or six inferior temples are scat
tered about the town ; and a magnificent Ionic

3 1 8 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
oval space of three hundred and nine feet long,
adds greatly to the beauty of the ruins. The scene
of the larger theatre is nearly perfect, presenting
a singularity very rarely to be met with. There
are two grand baths, and also two bridges crossing
the valley and river. The temples, and both
theatres, are built of marble, but not of a very fine
sort. Three hundred yards from the S. W. gate
is the Circus or Stadium, and near it is the trium
phal arch. The cemetery surrounds the city, but
the sarcophagi are not very highly finished; up
wards of two hundred and thirty columns are
now standing in the city. There is to the N. E.
about two hundred yards distance, a very large
reservoir for Water, and a picturesque tomb
fronted by four Corinthian columns; near it is afeo
an aqueduct. These ruins being overgrown With
wood, are objects of considerable interest. There
are numerous inscriptions in all directions; chiefly
of the time of Antoninus Pius; most of them are
much mutilated; but the one I alluded to about
the Temple of the Sun, was on the propyleum of
that edifice, which has- been a grand piece of
architecture. On the whole we hold Djerash to
be a much finer mass of ruins than Palmyra ; the
city has three entrances of richly ornamented
gateways, arid the remains of the wall, with its
occasional towers, are in wonderful" preservation.

LETTER IV.J SYRIA. 319
At two o'clock in the afternoon, having com
pleted our operations, we set. out in a S. W.
direction for Szalt ; we observed pieces of columns
apparently unfinished. In an hour and twenty
minutes we crossed the Zerka. The Zerka is a
small stream winding prettily in a narrow valley,
which is not so well wooded as its neighbourhood;
there are the ruins of a small building on the
front of the hills near the ford. Ascending from
the rivulet, we passed some small sites of towns,
possessing nothing ¦: of interest ; and at , five in the
evening, we arrived at a camp of the Salhaans,
where we passed the night.. .
March 21. This. morning we proceeded, but
shortly coming to a cross-road, the Benesuckhers
said they could not reach Szalt that day, but would
conduct us to a camp of their own ; although we
knew that Szalt could: be only a few hours'
distant. We positively insisted upon being con
ducted to Szalt, whieh after much altercation, in a
lonely valley, they consented to do, if we would
give two hundred piastres to each of the sheikhs
of Szalt, Heshbon, and Kerek, and also to them-
selvesifive days' advance of the thirty; piastres per
day for their< foods; All this was positively refused,
excepting the thirty for the present day; and
after much altercation, the Benesuckhers evidently
endeavouring, both by their threats and the place-

320 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
they had chosen, to frighten us into a compliance
with their demands ; the dispute ended by our
going to Szalt, accompanied by the prime minister
(as we termed him) of the young prince, the chief
of the party. The minister is a very great rogue ;
he is not an Arab born ; we thought he had much
the appearance of a Levantine, of some European
extraction. It was he who put every bad idea into the minds
of the prince, and the rest of the Arabs, who were
mostly very young men, and not so well versed
in the art of cheating as himself. We did not
succeed in getting to Szalt, until the interpreter,
and the Arab Seys who took care of our horses, im
pelled by fear from the gesticulations of the oppo
site party, had given the Arabs sixty piastres, for
which we told them they must themselves be the
sufferers. The prince and his gang now quitted
us for their own camp, as they said they could not
enter Szalt, because they were at war with the in
habitants. On leaving them we crossed over some
small hills into a spacious valley called Bayga, in
which are the ruins of a large square cyclopean
building (**), perhaps a fortress ; on quitting
which, we ascended to the westward over some
rugged rocks, and thence descended into, and
passed through some picturesque vallies most
beautifully wooded. From these vallies we again

LETTER IV.J SYRIA, 32 1
passed over some barren soil, and descending
again, went by some vineyards, inclosed with
stone walls (*), on our left ; whence turning
round a point to our right, we had the first view
of Szalt, not ten minutes' distant from us, the
castle is situated on the top of a hill, on the sides
of which is the village, nearly surrounded by
a valley and by high hills, forming a very
picturesque object. The neighbourhood abounds
in vineyards and olives ; we found the finest
raisins here that we had seen in Syria. The
inhabitants of Szalt are numerous, and more than
one-third of them are Christians. We arrived,
wet through, both ourselves and baggage ; the
people shewed us great attention, drying our
clothes before the fire. We first went to the-
travellers! room, but were soon after conducted to
the house of a Christian. Bad weather con
tinued the whole of the next day, but on the
twenty-third the weather became fairer. In
consequence of the treachery of the Arabs, we
wished to quit them, and if possible to get the
natives, of Szalt to conduct us to Kerek. The
minister made some extravagant demands, howr
ever he was paid up to the day, and told, his
services and those of his comrades were no longer
wanted. He now tried all he could to induce
us to consent to go to their camp, but this would
Y

322 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
have been a very imprudent course to have
taken ; finding that he could not either by
good or bad words prevail on us to go, he said
that his companions would take care that we did
not stir from Szalt, until we consented to his
scheme* and went off in a huff. To shew how
little we feared these threats, we took a walk
of two hours, and returned in the evening. Some
of the Mahomedan natives of Szalt insulted us
on our return. v We wished next day to go to
Amaun, but the son of the sheikh of the town
told us his father was gone to the Arabs, and
that he could do nothing till his return.
March 24. This morning the shiekh's son and
five other guards accompanied us to visit some
places in the neighbourhood. The first was a
village called Athan, situated two hours' distant
to the N. N. W. There is a ruined village here ;
we saw nothing of antiquity; but in ascending
from it we observed some sarcophagi cut out
of the live rock. We afterwards went to a place
called Gilhad Gilhood, where there are two old
tombs; one of them has since been used as a
Christian chapel, the natives say it is the birth
place of the prophet Elijah. There are some
sarcophagi cut out of the rock, and other antique
remains. We visited, in all, five ruined villages,
which serve at least to shew that the country lying

LETTER IV.] . SYRIA. 323
five or six miles to the north of Szalt, was once
more populous than it is at present. Szalt has
been thought to be the ancient Amathus, but
we are more inclined to believe it to be Machasrus
where John the Baptist was beheaded. The coun
try in general is extremely beautiful and woody.
On our return to the town we found a black
messenger from the Benesuckher prince, inviting
us to go to his camp and adjust our differences,
but we had determined, if on the following day
the natives of Szalt refused to conduct us to
Kerek, to recross the Jordan and proceed to
Jerusalem, where we could adopt other measures
for carrying our plans into execution.
March 29- In the morning, at nine o'clock,
we quitted Szalt in the middle of a great dispute
amongst the natives, whether they should or
should not deliver us up to the Arabs; the tops
of all the houses were covered with women and
children to see the result of the fray. On quit
ting the house, our interpreter was missing, and
after waiting some time, we found him concealed
behind the door crying bitterly. The first object
we saw was the prime-minister whom we had not
seen since the twenty-third; he was in company
with the black and another Benesuckher Arab,
and mounting their horses they immediately joined
us/ and endeavoured all they could to persuade

324 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
us to go the wrong road, in which they were
joined by all the Turkish natives of the place,
who kept bawling to us that we were going
wrong. Fortunately, when walking out one day,
we had made inquiries, and had discovered the
right road to Jerusalem; and, therefore, in spite
of all their remonstrances, we took the road we
knew to be right. The plan of the prime-
minister was, doubtless, to lead us to the Arabs'
camp and there detain us till they had got what
they wanted. As we ascended the hill, followed
by the Arabs, we soon got a view of the Dead
Sea, the neighbourhood of Jericho, and the plain
of the Jordan. We had given out that our inten
tion was to pass through Jericho on our way to
Jerusalem; but having deviated from the right
path shortly after we began to descend, we had
an idea of passing on to Bysan. One of the Arabs
" quitted us on the brow of the hill; and when they
saw that we had ceased to keep the road to Jeri
cho, the black man went also. Both these people
had* no doubt, for their object, to give information
to the prince and his party of the track we had
taken. A little after mid-day, when we had
nearly descended into the first part of the plain,
to the minister's surprise and vexation, we turned
short off to the ford of the Jordan, which we
saw in the distance, and quitted him, notwith-

LETTER IV.J SYRIA. 325
standing his numerous remonstrances; indeed,
had we continued long in the track we were going,
we should soon have been amongst some of the
Benesuckher camps, as we had shortly before
passed five or six small camps, but of 'what
tribe we did not know. We now pushed straight
for the Jordan, and reached- its banks about two
o'clock. At the foot of the mountains we observed
some very singular, interesting, and certainly very
ancient tombs, composed of great rough stones,
resembling what is called " Kitt's Cotty House in
Kent." They were built of two long side stones,
with one at each end, and a small door in front,
mostly facing to the north; this door was cut in
the stone. All were of rough stones apparently
not hewn, but found in flat fragments, many of
which are seen about the spot in huge flakes;
over the whole was laid an immense flat piece
projecting both at the sides and ends. What
rendered these tombs more remarkable was, that
the interior was not long enough for a body,
being only five feet; this is occasioned by both
the front and back stones being considerably1
within the ends of the side ones. There were
about twenty-seven of these tombs, very irregu
larly situated. The plain, from the foot of the
mountains, is about half way pretty level, but
barren ;* thence it becomes very rugged, consisting

326 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
of a quantity of hills, vales, and deep chasms, in
a dry soil* of a very white appearance and of a
saltish nature ; this continues to within a quar
ter of a mile of the river's bank; whence the jest
is a rich, flat plain to the margin of the river,
which is in the bottom of a deep ravine, beauti
fully wooded, and so overgrown, that the stream
is not seen till you are close to it. The Callah-
el-Rubbat bore N. E. half N. from the ford.
Hereabouts it would be interesting to search for
the twelve stones put for a monument of the
Israelites passing the river (M). The water was
too high for us to search, and indeed we were not
very much at our ease, with the idea of the Arabs
being in chase of us. We were detained till
nearly three o'clock before we could cross the
river, which, to our surprise, was very much
swollen ; an Arab, on horseback, arrived shortly
after. , us, and as he had no baggage, was well
mounted, and likely to ,be acquainted with the
ford, we requested him to cross first, that we
might profit by his example ; but like the
peasants on Mount Lebanon, he refused to lead
the way. We therefore crossed one at a time,
the rest directing the progress of the one passing,
from an eminence on the banks ; the stream was
exceedingly rapid, and so deep, that we were
obliged to swim our horse;?, which, with our lire-

LETTER IV .J SYRIA. 327
arms, baggage, and ourselves on their backs, was
no easy task. We all, in consequence, got
completely wet through, and all our papers*
pocket books,- &c. were totally spoiled. From
the river we pursued a direction W. N. W. for
two hours, into a rich valley ; there ,was no
road or track. On the right we passed a
great cave, with an artificial door ; a labourer
misinformed us, and directed us up the course of
a deep, dry torrent in search of a village. After
wandering in vain till dark, we came to the ter
mination of othe valley, and saw no signs of any
path or habitation. It now came; on to rain hard
with thunder and lightning, and we were glad to
take shelter for the night in a cave used occa
sionally by the shepherds (Dl).
March 26. At day-light , we- were forced to
retrace our steps, and return to the valley; we had
left, which we found was called Wady Zeit (Oil
Valley) ; , it has a village called Agrarba, which
we did not see. On entering Wady Zeit, the
peasants all came out, armed with six muskets
and their instruments of agriculture. Seeing
six people mounted, issuing out of art uninhabited
valley, so early in the morning, they had mistaken
us ,for Bedouins. We got from them a guide
for Nablous. From these people we learnt that
the Arabs had crossed the Jordan the preceding

328 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
evening in chase of us, and failing to get any in
formation, had returned to the other side of the
river. We, therefore, owe our escape to the
circumstance of having lost our way. We
observed that this rich valley ends abruptly at
the foot of the hills to the westward. We
followed the principal road, which led us out by
a ravine, to the S. W., and continued in this
track till about eleven o'clock, when we crossed
over the hills to the westward. About half an
hour after mid-day, we reached the village of
Bait Forage, situated by the side of a rich ex
tensive plain, having six other villages on its
borders, many olive yards, and much corn. We
were glad to get some breakfast here, after an
abstinence, with the exception of a few dirty
raisins, which we found in the bottom of one of
our hourges, of twenty eight hours, since our
leaving Szalt. We remained till two o'clock, and
then proceeded for Nablous, about two hours'
distant. In twenty minutes we arrived at a
ruined village called Kaffer Baiter, about which
are several old Roman tombs and tanks. In
one of the former we found some dead bodies
concealed, with the mouth closed with rubbish.
From thence we went to Nablous, the road
leading us by Jacob's Well, a short distance
from which a valley in a southern direction, unites

LETTER IV.J SYRIA. 329
with the one in which Bait Foragei and the six
others are situated. Maundrell says, these rich
valleys are supposed to be " the portion of land
given by Jacob to his son Joseph." Nablous is
the ancient Sychem ; we went to the summit of
Mount Gerizim, and found the ruins of a large
town, with a tank, near a conspicuous sheikh's
tomb. March 28. We quitted Nablous, and reached
Jerusalem on the twenty-ninth. For an excellent
description of Nablous, and also of every, thing
that the pilgrim is shewn at Jerusalem, I must
refer you to Maundrell ; we took his book in our
pockets* and visited every place which he men-
tions, most of them three different times ; once
by ourselves, once as Ciceroni to Lord Belmore
and his family, and once in the same capacity to
Mr. Legh, the same who published his Journey
in Nubia. We have been to Bethlehem and St.
John's, were in the sepulchre at the Greek Easter,
and saw the celebrated trick of the holy fire, &c.
May 1. We set off with all the pilgrims, es
corted by the governour, and a body of troops, for
the Jordan. The sight was most impressive.
The immense number of Christians from all quar
ters, the various costumes of Greece, the Copts
from Egypt, the Abyssinians from ^Ethiopia.
Some of the pilgrims on camels, with double

330 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV._
cradles on their backs; some on mules, in cradles
also; some on horses ; some on asses; amounting
to about five thousand, presented a most curious
and interesting scene, winding along the road
amongst the hills, in a line as far as the eye could
reach, and sometimes appearing through different
openings in the. mountains, in two or three
divisions. In the evening we arrived at the camp
near Jericho. We could find no remains of the
Hippodrome which Josephus places here.
May 2. At two this morning we started by
torch-light for the Jordan, which we reached at
seven o'clock A.M. Here we found all the
pilgrims bathing in the river, men, women, and
children, all mixed together. They immersed
their clothes in the river, and collected boughs off
the trees, and bottles of the water to take home,
in commemoration of their pilgrimage. Maun
drell mentions all these circumstances with much
fidelity. We now went, attended by two Arabs,
to the Dead Sea, and bathed in it ; the water
was. as bitter and as buoyant as people have
reported ; those of our party who could not swim,
floated on its surface like corks ; on dipping the
head in, the eyes smarted dreadfully, and we
were much surprised to observe, on coming out
of the lake, that the water did not evaporate
from the body as is the case on emerging

LETTER IV.J SYRIA. 331
from fresh water, but adhered to the skin, and
was greasy to the feel or touch. : ' At night we
reached Jerusalem. To morrow,
May 6. We start with two Arabs to make
the tour of the Dead Sea, and search for the sites
of the cities that are known to have stood in that
direction. Our party will consist of Mr. Legh
and his attendants, Mr. Bankes and his, and
Captain Irby and myself. We shall muster alto
gether eleven people, including two Arabs; we
have plenty of arms. We calculate that the trip
will take us about three weeks ; we have all
dressed ourselves as Arabs of the desert, to excite
less observation. Lord and Lady Belmore and
their party have been here about three weeks »
they came from Cairo by land, having taken the
same route that we took. Their party is very
strong, and they had a famous Arab chief's brother
to protect them. They are ali now attiring them
selves as Arabs, and are going to visit Baalbec,
Damascus, &c. after which they embark in their
yacht for Europe. The friars of the convent had
a serious dispute in the Holy Sepulchre the day
before yesterday ; they were performing one of
their ceremonies, when the Greeks attacked
them, and wounded several. There has been
much disputing before the governour in conse
quence, and this letter will go with the Tartar
who carries their complaints to Constantinople

332 TRAVELS IN [LETTER IV.
In Maundrell's time there was a similar fray
between the Greeks and Latins ; and the jealousy
has existed ever since. In short, seeing how well
this author has described every thing worthy of
notice in this part, we abstain from any particulars,
and only beg you to remember that there is not
any one object mentioned in Maundrell's publica
tion that we did not carefully examine. When this
tour is over, we embark at Acre for Cyprus,
and thence follow the route mentioned in former
letters. I cannot, however, quit Jerusalem without
mentioning a singular adventure we had here.
There is amongst the sepulchres which travellers
have designated as " the Tombs of the Kings," an
excavated vault with an oblong portico, thus :

the only visible entrance to this tomb is at one
end of the portico, while from its construction
there is every reason to suppose that a corres
ponding entrance would be at the other end, which

LETTER V.J , SYRIA. 333
is now filled with rubbish. Mr. Bankes was so
thoroughly convinced of this, that when at Con
stantinople he used every exertion to procure a
firman authorizing him to excavate and ascertain
the fact, but in vain. We now endeavoured to
obtain permission from the governour of Jeru
salem to djg there ourselves; but failed also
in this instance. Now, as we could not procure
any legal authority to commence our labours, we
determined on prosecuting the undertaking se
cretly in the night, and accordingly purchased
privately some pickaxes and implements of- hus
bandry. Late in the evening we quitted the town
sirigly, from different gates, to avoid suspicion,
and assembling at the rendezvous after dark,
found we mustered a working party of ten per
sons, viz. — Messrs. Bankes and Legh, Captain
Corry and ourselves, together with five servants,
including two of Lord Belmore's sailors, whom
his lordship had allowed to assist us. We divided
our party into two watches, and worked hard
four hours at a spell during the whole night,
digging and clearing away the rubbish. We
were obliged to spare one of the servants as a
centinel near the road side, to apprize us of the
approach of any one. In the morning we had
got down about ten feet, when we came to an
immense block of stone, apparently in the very

334 TRAVELS' IN SYRIA. LETTER IV.]
spot where we expected to find the entrance to
the tomb. As we were unable even to move this
mass, we returned to the city tolerably fatigued,
having been obliged, for want of spades, to clear
away the rubbish with our hands. The next day
Captain Corry, Mr. Bankes, and Mahomet his
janissary, by the advice of Lord Belmore, suc
ceeded in breaking the stone by heating it,
and pouring cold vinegar on it ; but shortly after
this was done, our proceedings were discovered
by some Turks, and reported to the governour,
who put a very effectual stop to our exertions, by
ordering the whole of the portico to be walled in_
We send you acertificate from the reverendis-
simo, of our having visited all the sacred places
at Jerusalem,

LETTER V.

TOUR TO PETRA, AND ROUND THE DEAD SEA.
Departure' from Jerusalem to Bethlehem. — Hebron. —
Albaid. — Jellaheen Camp. — Pass south end of the
Dead Sea. — Arrive at Kerek. — Mahanna  Medin: —
Hamahta or Mote. — Gharundel. — Shobek. — Petra. —
Mount Hor  Return through Shobek. — Kerek. —
Ghorney's Village. — Rabbath Moab — Beit Kerm. —
Diban-  Medeba.  Oom-i-Rasass.  Heshbon. —
Arrqg-el-Emir —Szalt. — Rabbath Ammon. — Djerash
— Katty. — Rajib. — Tiberias. — Mount Tabor  Arrive
at Acre. Constantinople, September 12, 1818.
Our last letters, dated Jerusalem, in the beginning
of May, will have apprized you of our intended
tour round the Dead Sea and to Petra. We were
then on the point of setting off; but before I quit
the former place, it will be necessary to inform
you of the obstacles which presented themselves,
and the difficulties which we had to surmount
before we commenced our journey. It had for
some time been the wish of Mr. Bankes to under
take this tour, as the only two Europeans who
had ever been at either Kerek or Wady Mousa
(Valley of Moses or Petra) are both dead, viz.
Sheikh Ibrahim and Mr. Seetzen. Both these
travellers, indefatigable as they were, performed

336 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
this trip alone and in disguise, and were conse
quently obliged to conceal, their papers, and make
all their observations by stealth, which must neces
sarily have rendered their remarks very brief and
cursory, compared to what they would have been
had the writers being unrestrained. Seetzen
travelled, as an Arab, calling himself Moosa, but
never reached so far as Petra.
Although we are of opinion that Mr. Bankes,
solely, could not have succeeded in accomplishing
this journey without his junction with Mr. Legh
and ourselves, still he has the merit of being
the first person travelling as a European, who
ever thought of extending his researches in that
direction ; and from his profound knowledge
of ancient history, as well as his skill in draw
ing, he> was by far the best calculated to go on
such an expedition. To give you an idea of
the difficulties which the Turkish government
supposed there would be for an Englishman to go
to; Kerek and Wady Mousa, it is necessary to say
that when Mr. Bankes applied at Constantinople
to have these places inserted in his firman, they
returned for answer, " that they knew of none
such within the Grand Seignior's dominions;" but
as he and Mr. Frere, the British minister, pressed
the point very much, they at length referred him
to the Pashaw of Damascus (who equally averse
to have any thing to do with the business), passed

LETTER V;J THE DEAD-SEA. 337
him on to the governour of Jerusalem. This latter
tried all he could to dissuade us from the under
taking, though Mr. Legh gave him a handsome
spy-glass to induce him to assist us. He advised
us to apply to Mahommed Aga, the governour of
Yaffa; as the communication between Egypt and
Mousa, being usually through Gaza, which is
under Mahommed Aga's government, it was sup
posed that he would have the greatest influence
over the Arabs about Wady Mousa, as possessing
the means of punishing them for any bad acts they
may commit, either by stopping their supplies from
Egypt, or by making prisoners of such of their
people as come within his reach. The governour of
Yaffa, however, not only evaded the affair altogether,
but. by way of putting a stop, if possible, to our
journey, ordered back the horses which he had lent
us. Another visit to the governour of Jerusalem
seemed to promise as little as the preceding ; we all
four called on him ; on this occasion, a former mot-
sellini, who had been twenty years in office, and
was sitting with the governour, pledged himself to
us that the Arabs are a most savage and treach
erous race, and to prove it, added, that they think
Frank's blood a good medicine to cure their women
with when sick, and that they would make use
of our's for this purpose. All that we could pro
cure from the governour was a promise to write
z

338 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
to the sheikh of Kerek to apprise him of our
coming, and when we went With the Greek pil
grims to Jericho and the Jordan,' the governour
sent a man to us, whom he thought fit to call the
sheikh of Kerek, congratulating us on the ob
stacles to our going to that place having been
overcome. This man, however, was no sheikh,
and we suspect the motive of the motsellhn for
sending the counterfeit, was to obtain another
present. Finding that there was no getting any
of the public authorities to compromise them
selves for our safety, or indeed to render us any
assistance, we determined to proceed, trusting
to our numbers and force, and to try our fortune
With the sheikh of Hebron. Each of the party
procured a Bedouin Arab dress of the most
ordinary description, and we all bought horses for
the journey, except Mr. Bankes, who was already
provided with them. Our party consisted of Mr.
Legh; having with him an interpreter, a Tartar
from Constantinople, and a seyes (hostler). Mr.
Bankes had with him a soldier of the pashaw of
Egypt, and ourselves a Christian Arab servant.
We had for our guide a cultivating Arab, dwell
ing near Jericho, named Mahommed, and a man
belonging to Hebron. We took the precaution of
having as little baggage as possible with, us, send
ing the greater part to Acre with one of Mr. Legh's

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. - 339
servants. We each gave ourselves an Eastern
name for the journey ; Mr. Legh was called Osman ;
Mr. Bankes, Halleel ; Captain Irby, Abdallah; and
myself, Hassan. Our dress consisted of a frock
and drawers of very coarse linen; the frock being
fastened round the waist by a red, leathern girdle
about four inches broad. The head-dress was a
handkerchief of mixed silk and cotton, coloured
with broad stripes of alternate red, green, and
yellow ; this was doubled into a triangular form
and thrown over the head, to which it was at
tached by a double girdle of brown worsted rope.
One corner of the handkerchief hangs down over
the back of the neck, and the remaining two
cover the ears, and come down over the shoulders;
these latter, when the weather is cold, the Arabs
tuck up under the chin, and cover the whole
face with the exception of the eyes. Over all
we had the woollen abba, which We had long
worn, and which we procured at Yaffa ; it is de
scribed in the Aleppo letter. For arms, we had
amongst us six muskets, one blunderbuss, five
brace of pistols, and two sabres. Our money,
consisting of small gold coins, was concealed in
leathern belts round the waist next the body.
May 6. We left Jerusalem two hours before
dark in the evening, our party consisting of eleven
persons, all mounted. We slept* «.t Bethlehem.

340 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
May 7. At eight this morning we proceeded
for " Solomon's Pools," and thence down the
valley towards the Mountain of the Franks,
which we ascended ; we found it hollow on the
top, with walls round it, and four towers, all
much in ruins. This post is said to have been
maintained by the Franks forty years after the
fall of Jerusalem ; though the place is too small
ever to have contained even half the number of
men which would have been requisite to make
any stand in -such a country ; and the ruins,
though they may be those of a place once de
fended by Franks, appear to have had an earher
origin, as the architecture seems to be Roman.
From the Mount of the Franks we could see part
of the Dead Sea, and the situation of Kerek on
the other side of it. We took from hence the
following bearings by compass ; Abou Jane, a
village on the right, between Bethlehem and the
Frank Mountain, West. — Bethlehem, N. W. — St.
Elias, N. N. W.
We now proceeded to see the labyrinth.
On approaching it, we left our horses at the
ruins of a village called Hariatoon, and proceeded
on foot by the side of the cliffs on the southern
side of a deep and picturesque ravine to the
mouth of the cave, which runs in by a long,
winding, narrow passage, with small natural

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA^ 341
chambers or cavities on either side. We soon
came to a large chamber with natural arches, of a
great height, from this last there were numerous
passages leading in all directions, occasionally
joined by others at right angles, and forming a
perfect labyrinth, . which our guides assured us
had never been thoroughly explored, the people
being: afraid of losing themselves. The passages
were generally four feet high, by three feet wide,.
and were all on a level with each other. There
were few petrifactions where we were ; never
theless the grotto ' was perfectly clear, and the
air pure and good (52)- In the large chamber we
found some broken pottery, by which it would
seem this place had been once inhabited, probably
serving for a place of concealment. We ob
served a few English names written with char
coal. We now returned to the horses, and
proceeded to the southward, to visit the ruins of
Tekoa. They stand on a slight eminence, com^-
manding several bursts of the Dead Sea, and
cover a considerable extent ; this place was built
by King Rehoboam, and is coupled with Beth
lehem (**). We could not find the remains of
any distinct temple or public edifice, though
there are a few fragments of columns. From
Tekoa. we passed through a plain of cultivated
land, and thence all the way to Hebron, through

343 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
a much prettier country than that near Jeru
salem, the sides of the hills being richly studded
with shrubs and dwarf trees in full verdure ; the
prickly oak, arbutus, and Scotch fir, were most
prevalent. About five o'clock we passed a village
called Sipheer by the side of a well cultivated
valley ; there are about nine Roman sepulchral
caves near this village. From hence we crossed
a rugged road into another plain, where are the
ruins of a small old convent ; the Jews call this
" the House of Abraham." We now ascended
considerably, and passing between numerous
vineyards, with a watch-tower in each, some of
which appeared to be antique (**), we reached
Hebron at dusk : according- to Moses, this place
vied with the best cities of Egypt in antiquity (55).
" Hebron was built seven years before Zoan in
Egypt." Josephus makes it not only older than
Zoan, or Tanais, but also than Memphis. Here
Abraham, Sarah his wife, and Isaac died (5fi). We
had this day passed many camps of cultivating
Arabs, and found them all very civil; towards
the evening some of them invited us to pass the
night in their tents. The sheikh of Hebron
received us very kindly. We were lodged in a
small praying-room attached to the khan ; it was
furnished with mats and carpets for us, and we
were presently served with a beverage we never

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 343
saw before in the east, — " warm rice milk with
sugar ;" it was given before the coffee, and in the
usual small cups. The Turks of Hebron having
little intercourse with Europeans, are extremely
jealous of Franks, not one of whom is allowed to
live in the town, and I believe very few travellers
have ever visited it ; in consequence we found it im
possible to gain admission into the mosque, in which
is said to be the "tomb of Abraham." The lower.
part of this building is very curious, evidently
antique, being formed of great stones, some of
which are upwards of twenty-five feet in length ;
it has sixteen pilasters on each side, and eight on
either end, without capitals, excepting a sort of
ornamental summit which extends along the
whole building, and is a species of cornice.
Above this is a continuation of modern masonry,,
The approach to the entrance of the edifice is by
a long flight of steps between it and other ruined
buildings which stand on its S. E. side ; the
buildings being constructed lengthways, N. E. and
S. W. I imagine, however, that these outside walls
only inclose the court which surrounds the mosque,
and are not part of the mosque itself. The town
of Hebron is not of large dimensions, though
its population is great ; the country is cultivated
to a considerable extent all round it. The,
streets are winding, and the houses unusually

344 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
high. We visited a manufactory of glass lamps,
which are exported to Egypk We were told by
the governour of Hebron, that there is a regular
party of pilgrims who set out from thence every
year, without any escort, depending entirely on
their own strength; they contrive to fall in with
the great Damascus hadj near to or at Mecca, which
is at the distance of 'thirty days. From a mer
chant of Cairo we ascertained the existence of
great ruins at Abdi, in the Desert, to the south,
about three days' distance.
The governour of Hebron made no difficulty
the first evening about our going to Wady Mousa,
Kerek, &c. saying, " it was an easy matter,
and he would undertake it." On the seventh,
however, difficulties began. We visited, after
dinner, the house of the Jewish priest; there are
one hundred Jewish houses in Hebron; we found
their quarters excessively clean, and neatly white
washed; that of the priest was particularly so; it
had a very nice divan, and commanded a fine view*
of the country ; they were very civil, and offered
us letters to the places we were going to. The
governour now _ made amotion to retire, that his
presence might not prevent our drinking wine,
but we declined it. We were now shewn the
synagogue. On our return to the khan, a watch
was given to the governour by Mr. Bankes ; he

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 345
took it without making any remark at the time,
but shortly after retired, when a man arrrived
to say, that the motsellim was not content with
his present, and had given it to the Jewish priest.
Soon after, however, another person made his
appearance, saying, they wished to arrange the
bargain for paying the guides, &c. ; three hundred
and fifty piastres were offered, but immediately
rejected, as three thousand five hundred would
have been at the first offer. After a second visit,
however, to the Jew's house, where we again
found the governour, four hundred piastres were
paid down, and we were to . proceed the fol
lowing morning. After supper the governour
called at the khan ; he appeared to be shuffling
a good deal, altering the order in which the
different places were to be visited, but as he
did not make any material change, still placing
Wady Mousa before Kerek, we did not much
care about it. He looked at all the firmans,
boyourdees, &c. but did not appear to pay as
much respect as is usual to the firman of
the Grand Seignior. On observing Mr, Legh's
Constantinople Tartar, he said, but in a good
humoured way, that a few years ago, if a Tartar
had come to Hebron, he would have had his head
cut off, but that it was not so now. We re
quested to proceed on our journey early in the

346 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V-
morning, but he said that arrangements could
not be made for our departure till an hour after
gun-rise, and soon after he left us.
May 8. The governour did not make his
appearance till after eight o'clock, bringing
with him the three men who where to be our
conductors and the Jew priest. He was shortly
after followed by his brother, who had pre
viously desired to know, in an indirect manner,
why he had not received a present as well as
his kinsman? Lastly came all the law officers,
and heads of authorities ; these, together with
the motsellim, advised us to go to Kerek
direct, and not to Wady Mousa. The gover
nour, however, told the guides that there were
four hundred piastres for them if they chose
to take us ; but these people, who had, in all
probability, previously received instructions to
the purpose, declined conducting us. Finally,
Seeing there was no dealing with such people, we
mounted our horses and left the town ; but in
justice to the governour, it should be mentioned
that he not only returned the four hundred
piastres but the watch also. When we had got
outside the town we held a consultation together,
and finding it impossible to proceed alone, without
a guide to shew us the road, we sent into the
town to say we would consent to visit Kerek

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 347
first, in the mean time we retired to a neigh
bouring oliver-yard ; by the return of the mes
senger, the governour sent to say, " he would
have nothing at all to do with our concerns." A
man on horseback, however, offered to shew us
the road, and we accordingly proceeded with
him, but had scarcely advanced half an hour,
when two men came galloping, and hallooing
after us ; upon which we stopped in a corn field,
and sent Mr. B.'s soldier, Mahommed, into the town,
as the governour wished to communicate with us;
this was about mid-day. Towards two o'clock,
Mahommed the Arab, who had accompanied us
from Jerusalem, quitted us ; about three o'clock,
Mahommed the soldier returned with one of the
Jews, the sheikh having consented to send us to
Kerek, with a letter to Sheikh .Yousouf. We
likewise received for a guide one of the Jellaheen
Arabs. In return for this, the motsellim de
manded three hundred piastres, or the watch and
two hundred : the watch and one hundred and
fifty were given, as the former was of more value,
than they imagined ; two roubees (five piastres
and half) were given to the Jew, and he begged
one for the governour's brother ; a roubee is less
than two shillings value. We now proceeded^
the country was ugly enough, but tolerably well
cultivated with corn. We passed several ruined

348 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
sites ; one of them, which they called Hagefiy
stands on a hill, and has a large square building,
which appeared partly perfect ; we had also
another on our right, and a column which was
too far off to be visited; we afterwards passed
two Roman excavated tombs, with porticos in
front, not very interesting ; there are two ruined
sites near them," to one of which they probably
belonged. About five o'clock we reached a well
where we gave our horses water, as the camp
where we were to sleep was ill provided ; they
called this well " Al-baid ;" there are two pools ;
one is small with green water, the other a foun
tain in the live rock. There is an ancient site
N. W. of it, with a wall of large construction,
and some good masonry ; there are slanting
passages cut in the live rock, leading to caves
which have probably served for tombs.
We reached a Jellaheen camp of thirty tents
about dusk; it was situated on the summit of
a hill, an unusual position, as they generally
pitch their camps in vallies. The harems, or
parts of each tent allotted to the women, were
covered in front, and they all appeared particu
larly veiled. We found these people uncommonly
poor in appearance, though they had plenty of
sheep, goats, and camels; the camp was placed
in a desert country, the cultivated land having

LETTER vfj THE DEAD SEA: 3i9
ceased .about the well Al-baid. We hac| mutton
for supper, but were obliged to find our own
coffee. An Arab journeyman tailor arrived, and
was employed making coats of sheep-skins, -which
he dyed red with ochre or some such substance.
These people said that in years of scarcity tfiey
retired to Egypt. Our course from Hebron to
this camp was in a south-easterly -direction.
May 9- We wished to make a bargain with
the Jellaheens for conducting us to Wady Mousa ;
but nothing would induce them to consent.
After much bargaining, they agreed to take us to.
Kerek, if we would give seventy-five piastres to
the -chief, and ten to each of five guides, who
were to accompany us with muskets. Though
these people had for a long time refused to accept
this sum, still, when it was agreed to, they all
began fighting, who should go. After we had
descended from the^camp, we offered five hundred
piastres if they would conduct us to Wady Mousa;
but nothing could induce them to consent. They
said they would not go if we would give them
five thousand piastres! observing, that money was
of no use to a man if he lost his life, and that
the people of Wady Mousa were a treacherous
and cruel race, and always attacked strangers
by firing at them from rocky eminences, which
concealing the hostile party gave the others no
chance. Seeing that all our endeavours were

350 TRAVELS ROUND [%ETTER V
fruitless, we ceased to press the subject. We
had left the camp about eight, and at nine we
arrived at a well where we watered our horses.
We remained here about half an hour and then
proceeded, when our conductors began their
tricks, by saying they would go no further unless
we g*ave them five hundred piastres, the sum which
we had offered if they would conduct us to Wady
Mousa; after much altercation, seeing that nothing
would bring them to reason, we said we would go
alone, which they defied us to do. We, however,
left them, taking a course in the desert about
S. E. by compass, and trusting to our good
fortune to meet with some Arabs or tents in our
way. We had proceeded in this manner till
eleven o'clock, when one of the guides appeared
in the rear, waving his turban, and making all
possible , signs for us to stop ; in about half an
hour two of them joined us ; we were greatly
rejoiced to see these people return, but affected
to be quite indifferent about it, to prevent further
roguery. We now proceeded a little more to
the south, and about mid-day had a delightful
prospect, from a slight eminence to the left of the
road, of the southern extremity of the Dead
Sea, together with the back-water and plain at
the end of it. From this view it appeared evident
that the lake Asphaltis must be of much less length
than is usually supposed, or than all the ancient

LETTER V,] THE DEAD SEA. 35 1
authors have made it out to be. We now began
a continued descent into a deep, barren Valley,
and did not get to the bottom till near five o'clock,
passing with considerable difficulty over a path
so rugged, barren, and full of great stones, that
we were obliged to lead our horses; at last we
reached the ruins of an old Turkish fort, standing
on a single rock to the left of the road; to the
right there is a pool of green Water, tolerable for
horses, but of which we were glad to drink,
though an old man was stripped and washing him
self in the middle of it at the time ; it was about
fifteen feet wide; we filled our skins. Further
on the same side, the cliff is excavated at a con
siderable height with loop holes ; possibly meant
for a post from whence a sentinel might see all
passengers, and apprise the castle of their ap»-
proach. It would appear that this was a sort of
" barrier" where duties were levied on the passers
by; they call the place El Zowar. From hence
we passed through a pretty, gravelly ravine, with
bushes of the acassia tree* and another bearing
a small stone fruit, resembling in taste a dried
apple; the Arabs call it "doom," though it is a
very different tree from the doom palm. About
six we entered the great plain at the end of the
Dead Sea; for about a quarter of an hour we
had a few bushes, and afterwards found the soil
sandy and perfectly barren. On our right we

352 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
had a continued hill of a sandy soil, running in a
S. E. and N. W. direction towards the middle of
the plain. At dark we stopped for the night in
a ravine at the side of this hill, much against
the wishes of our guides, who strongly urged
the want of water, and the dread of the dytch-
maan, as inducements to make us proceed.
We collected a quantity of wood which the
Dead Sea had thrown up at high water-mark,
and endeavoured to make a fire in order to bake
bread, as we had flour. The wood was, however,
so impregnated with salt, that all our efforts
were unavailing, and we contented ourselves
with drinking the flour and water mixed,
which though not Very palatable, still served to
appease our hunger. All night our guides, not
being able from fear to sleep themselves, endea-
voured to prevent us by alarms of the dytchmaan.
May 10. In the morning, at the very dawn
of day, we proceeded across the plain; for
the first half hour we had still the before-men
tioned sand hill on our right. We found, ex
clusive of the saline appearance left by theretiring
of the waters, several large fragments of clear
rock-salt lying on the ground, and on examining
the hill, we found it composed partly of salt and
partly of hardened sand. In many instances the
salt was hanging from cliffs in clear perpendicu
lar points like icicles, and we observed numerous

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 353
strata of that material of considerable thickness^
having very little sand mixed with it. Strabo
mentions "that to the southward of the Dead
Sea there are towns and cities built entirely of
salt ;" and although such an account seems
strange, yet when we contemplated the scene before
us, it did not appear very improbable. The tor
rents, during the rainy season, had brought down
immense masses of salt, and we observed that the
strata were generally in perpendicular lines.
Leaving this hill, the plain opens considerably to
the south, and is bounded at the distance of about
eight miles, by a sandy cliff, from sixty to eighty
feet in height, which runs directly across and closes
the valley of el-Ghor, thus forming a margin for
the uttermost limits of the Dead Sea to the south
ward, when the waters are at their greatest
height. 'We were told that the plain on the top
of this range of cliffs continues the whole way to
Mecca, without any interruption of mountains.
It appeared to us that the mountains to the west
ward of the Dead Sea gradually decreased their
height to the southward, while those to the east
ward continued to preserve the same altitude as
far as the eye could reach, and appeared to be of
a reddish colour, resembling granite. Leaving the
salt hill, our track led for an hour and a half
across the barren flats of the back-water, now
A A

354 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
left dry by the effects of evaporation. We passed
six drains into that part more contiguous to the
main sea, where the water still remains ; some
were wet and still draining* others were dry.
These had a strong marshy smell, similar to what
is perceivable on most of the muddy flats in salt
water harbours, but by no means more unpleasant.
I imagine this to have given rise to the unfavour
able reports of the ancients, of the disagreeable
smell of the waters of the Dead Sea. The water
on the main body of the lake, is perfectly free from
any smell whatever. We now entered into a very
prettily wooded country, with high rushes and
marshes ; leaving these, the variety of bushes and
wild plants became very great; some of the latter
were rare and of remarkable appearance. Oc
casionally we met with specimens such as none of
our party had ever seen before ; a botanist would
have had a fine treat in this delightful spot.
Amongst the trees which we knew, were various
species of the acassia, and in some instances we
met with the dwarf mimosa; we saw also the doom
mentioned above, the tamarisk, and the plant which
we saw in Nubia, and which Norden calls " the
oschar." There was one curious tree which we
observed in great plenty, and which bore a fruit
in bunches, resembling in appearance the currant,
with the colour of the plum; it has a pleasant

LETTER V.J ¦ THE DEAD SEA. 355
though strong aromatic taste, exactly resembling
mustaid, and, if taken in any quantity, produces
a similar irritability in the nose and eyes to that
Which is caused by taking mustard. The leaves
of this tree have the same pungent flavour as the
fruit, though not so Strong. We think it pro
bable that this is the tree our Saviour alluded to
in the parable of the mustard seed, and not the
mustard plant which we have in the north ; for
although in our journey from Bysan to Adjeloun,
mentioned in the Jerusalem letter, we met with
the mUstard plant growing wild, as high as
our horses heads, still, being an annual, it
did not deserve the appellation of a tree ;
whereas the other is really such, and birds might
easily, and actually do take shelter Under its
shadow. We passed the wild cotton plant
amongst an infinity of others that we neither
knew how to name or describe. In about half an
hour we arrived at the little river, which is
marked in the map, and improperly placed as
Futlet ; the people told us it was the " Nahr-el-
Hussan," or horse river ; there was plenty of corn
cultivated in the open grounds between the
bushes. Our guides told us not to talk, lest we
should be discovered by the natives ; but this was
what we wanted, in order to get something to
eat, the flour and water of the preceding night not
having been very satisfying. We soon met some

356 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
of the natives taking in the harvest; they were a
wild looking people, and wore leathern aprons
reaching to the shoulders, a dress we had never
seen before ; they addressed us with great civility,
and on our telling them we were soldiers of the
Aga of Jaffa, going to Kerek, they said they
wished that more would come amongst them, as
they were much oppressed by the Bedouin Arabs,
whom they described as a bad set of people,
caring neither for God nor the saints. They took
us to their bivouack in the thicket, saying that
their village was some way off, and that they
were only remaining here to take in the harvest.
They gave us to eat some doom, dried and
pounded into a sort of coarse meal and mixed
with butter; we found it exceedingly good;
about half an hour afterwards they brought us
bread, butter, and milk. We were annoyed here
with large horse flies, which were in great num
bers, and some of our animals were streaming
with blood. We were told at Kerek, that these
flies were " a plague sent by the Almighty at the
destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah ;" and that
no Turk when praying, is allowed to kiss the
earth in the customary manner there. These
people are called Goahrnays, and differ mate
rially, both in manner and appearance, from the
Arabs, as well as from the natives of the towns ;
they adhere to one place of abode, and cultivate

LETTER V.] THE DEAD SEA. 357
the land in its vicinity. They do not live in tents
like the Arabs, but build huts of reeds, rushes,
and canes; they construct their buildings conti
guous to each other; and form their villages in
the shape -of a square, with only one entrance for
the cattle, which are thereby prevented from
straggling, and are kept more collected for pro
tection during the night. These people treated
us very hospitably, which they would naturally
do, taking us to be soldiers of so powerful a man
as Mahommed Aga ; but we never heard any other
than a bad character of them ever after. Before
we left them, they threshed out some corn with
great sticks for our horses. The women com
menced the labour, but as they could not work
and hide their faces at the same time, the men dis
missed them and did the work themselves. On
our taking leave, we offered them a handsome
reward for what we had had, but they absolutely
refused, and held out for a good quarter of an
hour, notwithstanding all our intreaties ; at last
we threw the money amongst them, when a most
furious battle took place about the sharing it
out. We could not refrain from laughing most
heartily at so odd a scene, and at eleven, left
them fighting and beating each other most furi
ously. We now crossed the Houssan, our horses
smarting from the bites of the unmerciful flies, and,
unable to resist the refreshing influence of the water,

358 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
quietly laid down in the middle of the stream,
leaving us no alternative but to dismount and walk
out. We proceeded along the foot of the mountains
which bound the east side of the plains, and con
tinued in this manner till near five in the afternoon,
our track being rugged and barren in the extreme,
with innumerable fragments of red and grey gra
nite ; grey, red, and black porphyry ; serpentine
stone ; beautiful black bazalt, breccia, and many
other kinds of stone scattered in every direction,
all fragments from the neighbouring mountains.
Hereabouts it may be presumed the ancients
procured materials for the numerous handsome
columns which one meets in Syria, and which
now adorn the Turkish baths, mosques, &c.
Mr. Seetzen, who was a geologist, if he
passed over this ground, must have been
highly gratified. Our two companions each
made a collection of all the specimens they met;
some of these were beautiful, and well adapted
for vases or other ornaments. We found that the
chain of mc-untains under which we were passing,
was chiefly composed of sand stone and bad mar
ble, together with the various kinds of minerals
we have just alluded to. At five, we had reached
the tongue of land, which lies between the south
end of the Dead Sea and its back water, and from
hence we began to ascend the hills on our right.
At six we stopped in a beautiful shady ravine,

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 359
watered by the river " el-Derrah," whose banks are
covered in profusion with the palm, acassia,
aspine," and oleander, in full flower and beauty,
perfuming the whole place, and rendering it a
most delightful spot, particularly when contrasted
with the desert appearance of its neighbourhood.
I will here insert the relative distances of the
principal objects we passed this day. ' Two hours
and a half from the western cliff of the Ghor to
Rahk, the first salt water drain ; half an hour to
Saphy,the nahr-el-Hussan ; three hours from Saphy
to the Honey river, nahr-el-Assel ; from thence
two hours to Mare ; and two more to el-Derrah.
We passed the night here ; Mr. Bankes took a
sketch of the spot, as well as another of that part
of the Dead Sea which is seen from it.
May 7. This morning, shortly after the
rising of the sun, we began to ascend the moun
tain ; the road was very rugged and stony, with
hardly a vestige of vegetation. The rocks were
of a dark sand stone. On our left we had a deep
ravine. Three men shouted from a height, and
asked "where we were going to?" — they had
only one gun. About eight o'clock we reached
a commanding point, where the road turns in its
ascent; here we had an excellent bird's-eye view
of the south end of the Dead Sea and the back^
water. The delay which it required to take a
sketch of it, gave time to the men who had hailed

360 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
us to come up ; two were blacks ; they accosted
us very roughly, examining us with great scru
tiny. They were armed, but still we were as
strong as they were. Mr. B., Captain I., and
myself were alone, with our Christian Arab
servant, Mr. Legh and his party having gone on
before; the strangers remained with us. As
soon as the sketch was finished we began to
ascend to the rest of our party, and in our way
were surprised by seeing five other men armed
with muskets, peeping from behind a rock at
some distance from the road ; after hesitating a
moment, they came forward and questioned us
about where we were from, and the place of our
destination, &c. By this time we had joined Mr.
Legh and the rest of the party; and having sa
tisfied the curiosity of these people, we proceeded
on our journey.
Our road now was on a sort of terrace scarped
out on the side of a romantic ravine, with vast
fragments, each as large as ordinary houses,
which had been detached from the sides of the
precipices, and were lying below in confused
heaps; some were only just cracked off, and not
yet fallen. About a quarter of an hour after
meeting the strangers, we came to a small deposit
of water, under an olive tree; here some of the
same men we had left behind came up with us
again, and called out loudly to us to come and

LETTER V.] THE DEAD SEA. 361
eat bread with them; but as we did not like
either their appearance or suspicious conduct,
the rest being visible in the distance running to
join their comrades, we continued our route.
As we advanced we began to find ourselves in
corn fields, with cattle grazing in the valley on
our left, through which the river Souf Saffa
runs towards the Dead Sea ; we observed the
ancient mill-courses, but the river itself was hid
by the richness of the vegetation on its banks,
especially the purple oleander in full blossom.
The castle of Kerek now opened on our view,
but not any part of the town, which lay behind
the castle. The ruins of the castle on this side,
that is the N. W., present two principal features;
a great mass at the south angle of the town, and
more towards the north, a great building Called
the Seraglio of Meleh-e-daher. Between these
two is the only gate of entrance on this side —
the west. It is no more than a plain, narrow
arch, with an Arabic inscription over it. This
entrance is very singular, the arch being fitted
to the mouth of a natural cavern, or- passage in
the rock, which leads with a winding course
through a high ridge of the natural rock, and
has thus been made to serve as the principal
avenue to the fortress. The form of the hill on
which it stands is not advantageous on this side,

362 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
being rather long, and the buildings upon it
straggling. High as the town stands, it is com
manded on every side. In our approach we
descended moderately into the narrow valley at
the foot of the castle hill, where runs a stream
with a narrow line of gardens on its banks, in
which we observed olives, pomegranates, and
figs, with some vegetables. The ascent from
hence is steep and toilsome to a great degree;
we all dismounted, entering at the cavern gate
already described. We soon found ourselves within
the walls, with the seraglio on our left hand ; the
houses do not come very close upon that part of
the fortification, though there are ruins and
foundations every where, seeming to announce
a greater population formerly. There are the
remains of a mosque with pointed arches, and
an octagonal minaret, with a band of black stone
carried round it; the whole is much in ruins.
Over the door-way is a pointed horse-shoe arch,
like that at the khan at Bysan, and amongst
the ornaments is the cup repeated several times.
The houses, are of one story, terrace roofed, and
so constructed that the roof at the back is in
many of them not above the level of the ground;
in many instances you may pass over the houses,
even on horse-back, without being aware of it;
some have a little court before them. The prin-

LETTER V.] THE DEAD SEA. $63
cipal chamber in the best buildings has two
arches thrown across it, on which rest the rafters,
not squared and very smokey; a small hole in the
centre serves as a vent for the smoke; and im
mediately under it, in the centre of the room, is
a circular hearth with a rim raised round it. In
the recesses between the opening of the arches
are raised platforms which serve as shelves; there
are also receptacles for corn, with bung-holes in
the manner of casks, for taking it out. The
walls are daubed with rude paintings in
red and black; we observed particularly an at
tempt to represent a horseman, and in another
instance a kneeling camel, with a man mounting
"\~~2s, XNi <^* ; this will give you some idea
of them. There is not a vestige of antique work
in the castle; but considered as Mahommedan
architecture it is good, especially at the south
end, where the live rock has been cut down in
order to detach the ridge from the fortified hill to
which it was by nature joined; it is probable, that
the hollow, furnished materials for the building
above, as at the " Callah-el-Rubbat," &c. Two sides
are left standing up across this artificial ravine
in the manner of walls. The most remarkable
thing that we observed was a christian church
within the enceinte of this part of the castle; it
is very ill constructed with small stones, and some

364 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
pillars are laid horizontally into the masonry, form
ing quite a contrast to the Mahommedan work,
which is of large, well cut stones, laid in regular
courses. This church has small narrow windows,
and a circular end and arched front, resembling
that at Tiberias, which is called the house of St.
Peter, but which is evidently posterior to the
first Mahommedan conquest, as there is an Arabic
inscription built upside down into the present
walls. It is probable, therefore, that both are the
*works of crusaders; and as Godfrey de Boulogne
took Kerek, and called it Mons Regalis, it is
likely he or some of his successors may have
built this church. There are remains of paint
ings of large groups of figures on the stuccoed
walls; one seems to have represented a king in
armour, another the martyrdom of some saint, by
twisting out his bowels; and there is an imperfect
inscription with letters of the Gothic form; the
castle seems to be more ancient than the church.
We found a few remnants of antiquity; first, a
small column of deep coloured red granite, well
polished but ill shaped ; secondly, another of grey
granite ; and thirdly, not far from it, close to a
well, a great wing of sculpture in basso-relievo,
bearing much resemblance to those which we
used to see attached to the globe in Egyptian
buildings. We could form no conjecture what

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 365
it was; there is no trace of the globe; pos
sibly it was the wing of a Roman eagle; its
length was seven feet, and breadth four. Near
the mosque are three capitals, resembling no
regular order of architecture, but similar to
some that we saw at Hamah. We found two
Greek inscriptions, but neither of them interest
ing. The place is well supplied with water by
numerous cisterns. Sheikh Yousouf was absent
at a camp about half a day distant, passing the
honey-moon with a young Arab wife he had just
married; we were very well received by Abdel
Khader the sheikh's son. Few questions were
asked, and less attention excited than might have
been expected. There was a merchant from
Damascus; the distance on a swift dromedary
is five days, but the ordinary travelling is ten;
another merchant was present from Hebron.
The women here do not cover their faces at all,
or keep out of sight; the utmost they ever con
ceal is the point of the chin. We sat and con
versed familiarly with several of them. We
were well fed, horses and all, for nothing,
Amongst our company was a man who re
presented himself as a great traveller; he had
been to Tripoli, Aleppo, Mardyn, and Cyprus; he
had never been to Constantinople, and said he had
no desire to go there, because he had heard that a
man could not beat out his pipe without burning

366 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
the house down, and that justice was so strictly
administered, that persons ran the risk of having
their heads cut off while they were talking in the
streets. It appeared that few if any of them
knew the name of the present sultan; it was
also a curious example of the liberty of speech
in these remote corners, that our traveller
added, " that they respected the sultan because
it was their interest to do so, on account of com
merce, &c. but as to the pashaws, they were no
better than themselves, and that it was a degrada
tion to stand in a humiliating posture with the
head stooped, and the hands hidden before one of
them, when here, a man might loll at his ease in
his own house, and stand or lie in whatever posture
he pleased." We Were invited out to dine one
day at a Turk's house, and treated to a boiled
sheep, without bread or any thing but the meat
itself; this custom we first observed at Szalt,
and to our great annoyance found the same prac
tice on the east side of the Dead Sea, &c, not only
amongst the Arabs, but in the towns and villages.
It appears that the Wahabees made an attempt
on Kerek, and were encamped for several days
on the heights south of the town; one of them
was sent in to parley, and the inhabitants boast
of having killed about forty of them, from the
loop holes of the castle, with their muskets.

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 367
May 1 3- Towards the evening, Sheikh Yousouf
arrived without his bride ; he was" a fine looking
old man, apparently nearly sixty years of age ;
he had lost his front teeth, and his beard was
white. Upon being told the motive of our tra
velling in these mountains, he asked rather
roughly " whether this was the country of our
fathers ;" but we soon found him to be a plain,
blunt, honest old man, of very few words. Only
one man in the town could read, and he Was the
Greek priest. He read to Yousouf the letter
from Sheikh Eysah of Hebron, Without which we
have reason to think we should have had a much
colder reception. It appears that the governour
of Jerusalem deceived us, and never wrote to
Kerek at all. We got. the Greek priest to be a
mediator in arranging the business with Yousouf,
and as we had for once to deal with an honest
man, we had not much trouble ; for in fact
the negotiations the next morning were hardly
closed, before the horses were ordered to be in
readiness. FoUr hundred piastres were paid down
as the price of a safe conduct through several
places, specified in a list, as far as Wady MoUsa,
to the south, and Szalt, to the north ; but the
old man could not undertake to free us from
some incidental tributes on the road. Yousouf
pledged himself to accompany us through the

368 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
whole journey. During our stay at Kerek, we
saw the dowry of a young woman going to be
married paid at the sheikh's house ; it amounted
to about one hundred piastres, in white Constan
tinople money. This I believe was only what
she was to wear as her head ornament, as the
ladies here decorate their foreheads with dollars
and different kinds of money ; sometimes they
hang down to both ears, and must really be a
great weight. The amount of a dowry is some
times as high as four purses ! There are about
as many Christian inhabitants in Kerek as Turks ;
the former boast of being the strongest and
bravest, and are able to produce four hundred
men bearing arms ; they are on very good terms
with the Turks, and appear to enjoy equal free
dom with them. It was said that at the time of
the French invasion in 1 799, there was a project
for disarming the Christians and driving them out,
which the present sheikh prevented. We saw,
and were recognised by several of the suspicious
people we had met on our road the day of our
arrival ; they asked us why we did not stop to
eat with them ? but their concealment, and the
manner in which they first came upon us, looked
as if they meant no good.
May 14. In the afternoon we set out from
Kerek to the southward ; we descended into the

LETTER V.J TITE DEAD SEA. 369,'
ravine which surrounds the place, having the
main body of the castle close on our right hand,
the base of which is here a slanting casing of the
rock, as at Homs, Aleppo, &c. From hence we
passed up the side of a narrow ravine to its very
end. On each side there are caverns and
wrought tombs, in one of these, which had all the'
appearance of a natural grotto externally, we
observed places for sarcophagi; it is probable that
the whole is the burying place of the ancient
town. In this ravine is a spring of water, with a
small Turkish building. Here we were joined by
an Arab from Djebal who had been forced away
by the Wahabees, and had lived and served with
them ; almost all his fellow-townsmen had been
put to death. He was upwards of a month at
Dareyah their capital, which he describes as
being larger than Kerek. The houses are all
built with mud, and the fortifications with mud
and palm trees ; there are cannon on the walls,
and an immense treasure buried and concealed.
He said that the Wahabees prefer silver very
much to gold, for which no reason was given.
He confirmed the relation of their horses being
fed at times entirely on camel's milk. He was
mounted on one of that breed, a light leggy
horse, very different in appearance from those of
the Arabs ; he seemed to think the Wahabee sect
BB

3/ 1 J TRAVELS ROUND j^LETTER V.
very general, and said, jokingly, that Sheikh
Yousouf was one, which the other denied with ap
parent horror. We ascended into a country of
downs, with verdure so close as to appear almost
turf, and with corn fields at intervals; the rock did
not appear much, though the surface was sprinkled
over with stones. In an hour and a half we
reached a camp belonging to the people of Kerek
under Sheikh Ismayel, Yousouf's youngest son.
After taking some leban (sour milk) and bread, we
proceeded to the N. W. about a mile, across some
corn land, to a ruined village called Mahanna.
The ruins are mostly of ordinary buildings, but
it is evident that one them was a Christian
church ; another ruined site to the westward was
called Dgeflgood. The following ruined sites
are visible from this point : Machad. Arti-Mus^
shut, (which is the single building supposed to
be tomb of Abou Taleb) Harnahta or Mote,
Toor, Howeeh, and Marrowhich. We now went
due east for an hour to Medin, from whence we
could see the following ruined sites, most of them
on slight eminences ; Imriega, E. by N., Hadad,
Shirsee, Behlanah, Suhl, and Nehkill ; in short,
the whole of the fine plains, in this quarter, are
covered with sites of towns on every eminence or
spot convenient for the construction of one ; and
as all the land is capable of rich cultivation, there

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 371
can be little doubt that this country, now so
deserted, once presented a continued picture of
plenty and fertility; hereabouts, I think, must be
the quarter alluded to by the Arabs, when they
nfade the report to Volney, which we have
quoted in page 310 of this volume. Having
finished our survey of the neighbouring ruins, we
returned to Ismayel's camp were we slept.
May 1 5. This morning we were off before sun
rise; the same downs continued, with numerous
Arab camps in various directions, the ruined sites
being still in numbers all around us. In about
a quarter of an hour we came to the site Of
Hamahta or Mote, which last name, signifying
death, it acquired from the circumstance of
all its inhabitants having been exterminated by
Abou Taleb, whose reported tomb "Musshuf'is a
building upon arches which appears to stand in a
small enclosure, and is less than half a mile
distant to the W. S. W. Near this spot, on
another site, is a Roman mile stone, inscribed in
Latin, the number of miles is thirteen, but the rest
is indistinct; it may have been thirteen miles from
Rabath Moab. In about a quarter of an hour
from Mote we reached the tomb of Sheikh Jaffa ;
here the Mahommedans of our party alighted, and
entered the tomb to pray. Mahommed the

372 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
soldier reported, that within there are two dark
granite columns well polished. A quarter of an
hour farther we reached the camp of Sheikh
Sahlem, who commands, or has influence at
Djebal, and over all the country as far as Shobek.
This man asked us two hundred piastres in lieu
of thirty, which old Yousouf said was all he
would require ; we refused it, and Sahlem per
sisting, we mounted and retired to a distance.
Upon our leaving the tent he expressed a wish
" that we might be struck with lightning before
we reached Kerek," and added, " that had not
Sheikh Yousouf been present with us, he would
have had our money by force." Finding, however,
that he did not follow us, we sent back to offer
one hundred and fifty piastres ; the bargain was
struck, and the money counted into his hands.
He mounted his horse, and accompanied us, to
gether with his son, a fine young man ; in about
half an hour he brought us to another large
camp of his tribe of thirty-three tents. Having
remained a short time here, we proceeded, unat
tended, about two miles off, to visit the ruins of
Dettrass. At the foot of the hill are many cis
terns ; the ruins are indistinct and of no interest,
except three piles of buildings which appear to
be of Roman architecture ; one was evidently j

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 373
a temple ; the others, though large, are so
much ruined that it is impossible to ascertain
what they have been intended for. While we
were examining these ruins, the people from the
neighbouring camps flocked round us in conside
rable numbers, but were very civil. We returned
to our camp in the evening, and observing that
all the old women, and many of the young ones,
had their cheeks covered with blood and
scratches, we enquired the reason, when they told
us they had mourned the day before for a death
in one of the harems.'
May 16. We recovered the track which we
had quitted, where it falls into a deep ravine,
having a very steep descent, with wild rocky
sides. At the extremity, where we turned out of
this track to follow a more rapid and deep descent
into the Wady-el-Hussein, we saw upon our left
hand, on the height, the remains of an ancient
fortress, which seems to have commanded the
pass ; it is of dry masonry and large stones, and
is no doubt antique ; they give it the name of
Acoujah. As we proceeded downwards, there
was on our right hand a great quantity of lava
and black volcanic stone, which seem to have
issued from the side of the neighbouring ridge of
mountains. We presently reached the little rivu-

374 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
let called el-Hussein at the bottom of the ravine;
it has in some parts pitted for itself a very deep
channel in the live rock, and there are occasionally
some small though picturesque waters-falls from
ten to . fifteen feet in depth. The oleander,
as usual Upon the banks of most streams in
this country, was in great beauty and pro
fusion. From hence we began to ascend a more
Steep acclivity than that we had come down.
It is observable that the sides of this valley, el-
Hussein, are more destitute of verdure than the
plains above. We continued our course up a
slanting hollow, in Which we noticed the stones
gathered into heaps, and converted into fences (57),
in a manner which seemed to denote an abandoned
cultivation, and we observed a field or two of
corn near a little spring. A little further, upon
the point of a sort of promontory of high land
that stands between the fork of two vallies, are
the ruins of a small but rich building ; little or
nothing is left entire, but all the fragments
are lying in confUsion. There are rich Ara
besque borders of vines and foliage, much in
the taste of Diocletian's buildings at Palmyra, or
the triumphal arch; the capitals are not of any
regular order but fanciful, and loaded with or
naments ; the execution is sharp and neat. The
temple appears to have fronted S. S. W. and

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 375
there were apparently four semi-columns attached
to the front wall, three feet five inches in diameJ
ter ; amongst the fragments are pieces of columns
of a smaller diameter. There are other vestiges
of building near, but nothing that gives reason to
suppose there ever was a town. The great dark
mass of volcanic matter which we passed, bears
from these ruins N. N. E., it is called Elabahn,
the name also of a clear spring issuing from the
rock a little south of it. There are old mill-
courses in the low ground. The ascent still con
tinued for a short distance* when we reached
the level of the high plain in a S. S. W. direction.
There were reapers at harvest who informed us
that the chief persons of the town of Djebal
were encamped ; this induced our two sheikhs to
turn to the southward, out of the great, track,
towards the encampment. At one in the after
noon we reached a camp of thirty-three tents,
having travelled six hours this day: A feeble
attempt was made here to extort money from us,
under pretext that the sheikh was independent.
Upon our mentioning our intention of visiting
their village, Djebal, which was two hours' dis
tant, objections were raised against it; We
therefore left it for our return. There were
some small specimens of volcanic stone in the
valley near to the camp, but not in any great

376 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
quantity. Near this we visited some uninteresting
ruins called el-Hagre. Some person in this' camp
secreted a spy-glass which had dropped from Mr-
B.'s pocket ; after confessing that it had been
found, and was in the camp, they attempted to
force him to give an extravagant reward; this
was obstinately refused ; and by the intervention,
of Sheikh Yousouf it was recovered with difficulty
for two rubees. We supped as usual on mutton
without bread.
May 17. After we had set out, Daoud, a rela
tion of the sheikh of Kerek, missed his sword, and
rode back for it, but the rogues refused to restore
it to him. Passing to the southward, in about
half an hour we saw the village of Bsaida about
a mile distant. About and beyond this village
there are hanging woods of some extent, but the
trees are small and stunted. From hence, in
three hours, the descent becoming more conside
rable as we advanced, we reached the ruins which
are called Gharundel. They are situated on the
slope of a hill, and their extent is very considera
ble. Towards the centre of the ruins are the
remains of two parallel rows of columns, of which
three are standing in one row, and two in the other ;
their diameter is two feet; none have capitals.
There are also, near to this spot, fragments of
columns of three feet diameter; the capitals ap--

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 377
pear to be bad Doric. A spring of water runs
close below these ruins from Gharundel. We
passed up a valley to an Arab camp ; they were
Bedouins of the tribe of Hadjeyah. While we
were eating with these people, there was an
alarm of an enemy having made an attempt to
carry off some of their flocks ; the women cried
out and- waved their scarfs from the top of the
hill. We rode up, but saw nothing of the
offenders. Our road was S. W.: a white line
in the desert, at a considerable distance to the
left, as far as the eye could reach, was pointed"
out as the hadj road to Mecca. We noticed
three dark volcanic eminences, very distinguish
able from the sand ; the lava that had streamed
from them forms a sort of. island in the plain.
Close on the right of the road was another volcanic
mount, covered with scorias of a reddish colour,
and in substance extremely light; there was much
black porous stone below it. Soon after we
found an ancient Roman high-way paved with
black stone ; the edges, and a line down the
middle, were paved pretty regularly. On the
right, at intervals of about a mile and a half, are
ruins of square stone buildings ; there was a
cistern in one ; they were probably intended for
the use of travellers. Proceeding in a direction
parallel to this road, we saw, towards, the S. W^

378 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
a large mass of ruins, called el-Gaig; they offered
no interest. We found three mile-stones ; the
last only was erect; all the inscriptions were
effaced by time and the climate. From one of
these stones we turned off, about a mile from the
road, to examine some buildings, but fbuhd them
Turkish ; one had an Arabic inscription over the
door, which appeared ancient. Some crosses
were scrawled about the door, and these signs
are three times repeated +xii. Seeing some
Arabs in the distance to the South, we returned
to our companions, who had advanced just a
Roman mile on the road, and were waiting at
another mile-stone. We still followed the road
till we came to the edge of a deep vale; here
we . deviated to the. right and descended, the
original road continuing straight on the height.
At the S. W. end of the vale rises a hill, upon
which stands " Shobek," like a gigantic mound ;
at its foot the ground is terraced out in gardens,
and thickly planted with figs, now in full ver
dure. There are numerous caves in the side of
the hill. Nearly at the bottom of our descent
we passed a sheikh's tomb, called " Abou Soliman;"
from thence passing a ravine, or dry torrent, we
approached the town on its N. E. side by a zig
zag path, which seems to be the only one leading
to it. It appeared, in ascending, that almost all

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 379
that side of the castle-hill has once been covered
with buildings. Our coming seemed to excite
considerable alarm amongst the natives, Who
stood on the walls shouting and throwing down
stones. We entered at an iron gate, when the
inhabitants seeing Sheikhs Yousouf and Sahlem
with us, received us very civilly, some crying out,
" Go and get bread and fire-wood for these poor
fellows, who are come to lodge a night amongst
us." We were carried up to a soft of divan, in
the open air, constructed upon what seemed
to be the, ruins' of a church of crusade architecture,
standing due east and west. The tower of the
castle has Arabic inscriptions, which appear to -be
Mahommedan. The three doors of the supposed
church are square , topped, and the centre is
under a pointed arch, and has more the air of
Mahommedan than Christian architecture. We
had a boundless view from hence, comprising
the whole skirts of the desert, with the volcanos
which I have mentioned above. They brought
us .figs split and dried, of a very green colour
and delicious flavour, fasting nearly like the
fresh fruit; they told us they were on the
trees when the pilgrims arrived at Damascus;
this was in December. We observed much
kissing in the salutations; each party gene
rally kissed the right cheek first, once, and then

380 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V ¦;
the left four or five times (58). They evinced
their good breeding by suppressing their curiosity
as to the motive of our journey, whence we
came, &c. though evidently labouring under the
greatest anxiety to know every particular.
Shortly after our arrival we had an alarm of
Arabs ; thirty men, with guns, immediately ran
out ; others were driving in the flocks in great
haste ; they returned in about an hour, saying,
the Arabs had killed forty of their goats, but
that they would find an opportunity of returning
the compliment ; we, however, doubted the trUth
of this story. The name of Showbec, or Shobek (®),
occurs among those who sealed the covenant.
After a diligent search for inscriptions, we found
one in the architrave of the principal door; it is in
Latin, and though imperfect, Mr. Bankes made so
much of it out, as to leave no doubt that it was a
work of one of the Frank kings of Jerusalem. One
of their principal strong holds, somewhere in this
direction, was called " Mons Regalis ;" this might
either be Kerek or the place in question ; though
Miletius, extending their conquests still further,
says, that this name was applied by them to
Petra, and, relying upon some passages in Dio-
dorus Siculus, says, that it seems to have borne
that name in the historian's time. The most
remarkable circumstance is, that while the inte-

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 38 1
rior parts of this church are in the pure Gothic
style, resembling that of the same age in Europe,
the ornaments of the inscribed door-way are of
the genuine eastern taste, exhibiting that border
of convex fluting which is common in Turkish
buildings ; the pointed arch itself inclines slightly
inwards at the bottom, in the manner of a horse
shoe. The construction also has more of the
Oriental than the Norman style ; the transome,
in lieu of consisting of a single stone, being com
posed of many, irregularly locked together by
dove-tails and angular inequalities. In the walls,
at the gates of Antioch, are similar examples,
and certainly of the time of the crusades.
May 18. Quitting Shobek, we wound by a
spiral road into the valley which surrdunds it*
and observed that the road had been artificially
deepened, and in some parts cased with masonry.
From thence we ascended to the S. W. and
soon came to a brook which contributes to the
watering of the gardens below Shobek, but is
not the only supply. Upon the two parallel
ridges, between which our road led, we noticed
stones arranged in fences and gathered into
heaps, denoting the boundaries of former fields
and gardens ; and near the spring there appeared
the remains of a village. Our course continued
much in the same direction, between west and

382 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
S. W. for about a mile, gently ascending till we
arrived at a large Arab camp, situated upon high
ground, with still higher about it. Here we
expected to have found the Sheikh " Mahommed
Abou Raschid," that is to say, Mahommed the
father of Raschid, which latter is the title he goes
by. Most of the sheikhs have some denomination
of this kind to distinguish them. " Mahommed
Aga," for instance, is called " Abou Nabout,"
(the master of the mace or stick ;) and in Sir
Sydney Smith's transactions at Acre, his principal
coadjutor, the pashaw, was surnamed " Dgezar,"
which in Turkish signifies the " Cutter." Sho
bek, and the great district about it, is commanded
by Abou Raschid. He was absent on our arrival,
but messengers were dispatched to acquaint him
with our coming. From this camp another was
in sight to the southward, and beyond it a hill
thinly scattered with trees. We were hospitably
received. A merchant whom we had known at
Hebron came in, complaining that he had been
robbed of twenty-eight pieces of merchandise,
which he had brought to sell amongst the Arabs ;
they had lain hands on the goods in their tents,
and , refused to give them up. At particular
seasons of the year the inhabitants of these tents
are in the habit of passing to Cairo, whence they
carry on the charcoal trade between that city and
Suez; they said it was a five days' journey from

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 383
hence to Suez. In passing into Egypt they,
usually take the road to Gaza, though they seem
to be fully aware of the shorter way; it is, there
fore, only for the sake of security. At Shobek
there was a small caravan to set out the morrow
of our departure; the owner of it offered to
carry us to Cairo in eight days, computing two
to Gaza, and eight thence.
May 19- About noon Abou Raschid arrived.
He was a middling sized man, with very marked
features, having a dark complexion, very dark
beard, black piercing eyes, and aquiline nose;
his age might be about thirty. He was full of life
and spirits, but rather a man of few words, and
plain, unaffected manners. We had always heard
him spoken of in great raptures in the camp, ever
since our arrival. Having dined with us, the Hebron
merchant pleaded his cause before him, when he
presently gave orders " that his goods should be
restored to him." On our part, he very soon came
to terms with us, assuring us that he would wil
lingly conduct us to Wady Mousa for nothing, for
the sake of Mahommed Ali, Pashaw of Egypt. Soon
after a great dispute and tumult arose in the tent,
Abou Zatoun (the Father of the Olives), the sheikh
of Wady Mousa declaring, with violent gestures,
and swearing "by the beard of the prophet," and
* by the honour of their wonien," that we should not

384 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
go forward ; and seeing that, notwithstanding his
violence, both Abou Raschid and ourselves were
preparing our horses, he quitted the tent, uttering
threats and execrations, and rode off for Wady
Mousa, determined to prevent our going. All the
Wady Mousa people also quitted the camp, joining
in their chief's hostility to our advance, repeatedly
exclaiming, " Let the dogs go and perish if they
please ;" and swearing we should neither drink
of their water (^°) nor pass into their territory.
While this was passing, our good old man Sheikh
Yousouf's resolution was shaken, and both he and
Sahlem of Djebal strongly urged us to return
and give up the business, representing all future
perseverance as fruitless.. Abou Raschid twice
dismounted to answer the arguments of his people,
or to overcome their opposition, as they had sur
rounded him in numbers, imploring him to desist,
and asking him " why he risked himself for the
mere gratification of our curiosity, who were only
Christians." The sheikh seeing that all his argu
ments had no effect, seized his spear and sprang
on his horse, exclaiming, " I have set them on their
horses, let us see who will dare to stop Abou Ras
chid." We presently descended in a south by
west direction, through a ravine whose sides, rocky
as they are, have at some time been terraced up
and cultivated. The Wady Mousa people rode in

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 385
a parallel line with us, keeping on the high ground
On our left. Tn about half an hour (four o'clock)
we reached a source that issues from the live rock,
and is called Sammack ; here we were joined by a
host of people, all armed, and subject to our sheikh,
some were on horseback and some on foot ; two
double-mounted dromedaries also arrived. Sheikhs
Yousouf and Sahlem still remained behind at the
camp we had left. AboU Raschid, on the coming
up of his people, took an oath (6l), "By the honour
of their women," and " by the faith of a true Mus
sulman," that we should drink of the water of
Wady Mousa, and go whithersoever he pleased
to carry us. Thus were both the rival chiefs op
positely pledged in their resolution respecting us.
To the honour of Abou Raschid it should here be
said, that as yet he had not received, or even sti
pulated for any pecuniary or other reward
whatever. As we advanced down the ravine, a
wild and romantic view opened to us, terminated
by the peaks of the black and rugged ridge of
Mount Hor, the same that is alluded to in
Scripture, and by a boundless extent of desert
view, which we have hardly ever seen equalled
for singularity and grandeur. We turned
up out of this valley to the eastward, and
remarked as we quitted it, that there were
two small masses of ruins upon two opposite
c c

386 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
points which command it : they were, perhaps^
forts. Our way leading through a circular
plain covered with corn, and bushes of white
thorn just coming into blossom, conducted us to
a valley with the sides prettily studded with
turpentine trees, so clustered and grouped
together, as to give it a very parkish appearance ;
here we perceived traces of a paved way, con
structed similarly to that we had quitted when
we were descending into Shobek, and which
we thought to be a continuation of the same.
At sun-set we alighted at a camp of sixty-eight
tents, pitched in three adjoining circles, on the
highest point of a pass ; our whole journey this
day was S. W. three hours. The pass just
mentioned was not between two mountains, but
on the highest summit of one of them great,
part of these heights being so steep as to be
almost inaccessible, except by the beaten tracks.
One of these precipitous falls of ground was
close to our camp to the westward ; it commands
a most magnificent view, in which the fore-ground
is a circular, but uneven hollow, in part cultivated,
with several circular camps pitched in different
parts of it, and the little village of Dibdeba,
with a grove of fig-trees about it, bearing S.W.
The dark ridge of Mount Hor, which appears to
be altogether composed of a sort of sparry flint,

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 387
broken into masses and seamed with wide crevices,
with scarcely any verdure to vary its deep purple
colour, forms the boundary of this hollow to the
southward, and also to the westward, with that
high peak, upon which is the reputed tomb of
Aaron, (the Arabs call it Nebi Aaroon, Prophet
Aaron) rearing itself above all the rest in the mid
dle of the picture. This craggy ridge does not,
however, terminate the landscape ; the mountain
from which we viewed it being considerably higher,
and commanding a boundless view beyond it, over
a whitish expanse of country, which is varied here
and there with other coloured ridges rising like
islands upon it, or jutting forward into it like
promontories. The violent rains of the night
of the twenty-first and twenty-second supplied
the feature of water to this varied landscape,
forming a glittering line in the distant plain.
S. W. by S., as far as the eye could reach,
is a range of mountains, in which the natives
pointed out Mount Sinai. We were told it
was at the distance of four days ; they also
reported " Agaba," an inhabited place on the
Red Sea, as distant a day and a half from us;
and Mahn on the hadj road one day off. A
place which the Arabs call Gereye was like
wise mentioned as being four days' to the east
ward, or S. E., where are very extensive ruins.

388 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
In front of our tent there passed an ancient
road ; no remains can be traced of pavement,
but merely two parallel lines of low, dry wall,
set at the distance of about tWenty-five feet
apart. May 20. We followed the road in its passage
downwards to the S. W. for half an hour, when we
reached another camp, subject, in some measure,
to our chief; we had passed over the sites of two
others abandoned by the adverse party during the
night ; these sites are always distinguishable by
the fires and bed places of the Arabs ; the former
are marked by little holes filled up with ashes, the
latter by stones laid in oblong circles, with dried
heath and dead boughs laid on them.
t An eminence, about S. W. of this last camp,
commanded a view over Wady Mousa, bearing
south ; it seemed an inconsiderable village, in
a low situation, with a few fig trees about it.
Nebi Aaroon and Dibdebar were also visible from
this point, but we were admonished to go to the
brow of theprecipice, only one at a time, and were
afterwards prohibited altogether. There were
some very odd-looking people in this camp, some
of the men having long hair of a tawny colour,
plaited in small plaits, very much in the Nubian
manner, but without grease, and a handkerchief
of a brown colour, instead of the usual gaudy

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 389
stripes, confined, in lieu of the plain cord, by
a brown, flat band, worked in with patches of
coloured woollen, and .standing up above the head;
their sandals, which however are not peculiar
to them, as we had observed them in many
other instances, are simple and curious, having
a thong coming up on each side of the foot from
the sole, and another between the toes ; a single
tye fastens them on. The women had a peculiar
way of plaiting their braided hair across the
forehead, which had the air of a formal wig.
The female children had the same leathern aprons
ornamented with shells, &c, which are in use in
Nubia. (
From the break of day we had been apprized
that the adverse party were fully prepared to
stand to their word in opposing us ; that they
had removed several of their camps, and that a
large part of them had abandoned their village
of Wady Mousa to occupy a height which com
manded it. We could see the tents which they
had pitched there, as the distance from our ad
vanced camp was very moderate; they had also
moved their cattle with them. Messages, some
times of persuasion, and oftener with threats,
were continually passing ; a small detachment of
the hostile party passed our tents, but refused to
eat in them; they were suffered to go on, -un-

390 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V:
molested. In the afternoon a large deputation
arrived, Sufficient to fill the whole tent ; a confer
ence was immediately commenced with them;
they never personally appealed to us ; but carried
on the conversation with Abou Raschid only. It
was in vain that the authority of the sultan or
of the pashaws was dwelt upon in our favour ; they
got rid ; of the firmans, by insisting that they did
not understand Turkish, and after having a
boyourdi of Sali, pashaw of Damascus, delivered
into their hands, they said it was a fabrication of
the Jews, who are the pashaw's ministers. Not
argument only, but even artifice and falsehood
were employed in our favour; our friend Abou
Raschid asserting that we had with us a person
on the part of Soliman, pashaw of Acre, (our
servant was the person whom he pointed out as
such) and a letter from the governour of Yaffa ;
which, however easy to have procured, we were
not provided with. The adverse party, in some
of their conferences, insisted much on seeing
something under the hand of the last-mentioned
governour., whose recommendation, we have reason
to think, would go farther in this country than
that of any other person. It was however in
this instance only captiously asked for, on the
presumption that we had it not to produce.
Abou Raschid urged repeatedly, that in the

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. $91
event of their not complying, we could use our
influence with the several pashaws to cut off their
communication entirely with Mahn, Gaza, and
Egypt; and he insisted upon our taking down
the names of the refractory chiefs, which were
Abou Zatoun (Father of the Olives,) sheikh of
Wady Mousa, and commanding the Howetatt
Arabs ; Kali Phee, of the same place ; Lehaddineh
Hinde, and the adherents of even Ebn Jarzee,
who was himself rather disposed to our side.
Our champion advised us, in the presence of these
people, to instigate Mahomed Ali to lay hands on
some of them whenever they should come to
trade at Cairo. These people said on their first
coming, " that we were very lucky in the protec
tion of the chief who accompanied us, for other
wise we should never have returned." They
pretended to believe that we had a design of
poisoning the water.
In the evening there was a very loud thunder
storm ; and as all that could be said or threaten
ed seemed to have no effect upon our opponents,
and as there was neither food for us nor forage for
the horses in the tents, we returned, and slept at
the same camp as on the preceding night. It was
the full of the moon, a dismal cold rain came on,
which, for the space of two or three hours, pene
trated the covering of our tent, and until a

392 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
trench was dug along the inside of the back
curtain, it flowed in upon us" from the high
ground; the goats and sheep were continually
encroaching, and at last even a cow.
May21. A thick fog prevailed, so that even
the opposite side of our camp was not visible;
we heard very noisy councils in the adjoining
tents, and it was soon after announced to us,
that " war was positively determined on," as the
only alternative of our not being permitted to
see what we had desired, and to drink of the
water. Messengers were dispatched to the camps,
under Abou Raschid's influence, and to Shobek,
to apprise them of the circumstance, and to re
quest immediate reinforcements; the presence of
Sheikh Yousouf aud" Sahlem was also required.
A poor matronly woman, in the other half of our
tent, was looking over the partition with her
child in her arms, shedding tears occasionally, and
throwing in arguments of dissuasion. It was in
vain that we agreed to give up Wady Mousa altoge
ther, and declared that we had no desire to taste
of the water; the antiquities, which are distant
from the village, being the only" object of our
curiosity. •¦ Our chief, who was a man of few
words, stood always to his point, and declared
that we should not only see the place, but even
bathe in the waters; and, that if fair means could

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 393
not compass this, he had sworn to. accomplish it
by force.
The messages which arrived in the course of
the morning from the opposite party, were only
a renewal of protestations and oaths against our
entering their territory ; and they even threw out
menaces of cutting off our return from where we
were ; thus situated we could not but compare
our case to that of the Israelites under Moses, when
Edom refused to give them a passage through
her country (62). The circumstance must like
wise have occurred nearly in the same place, as
the death and burial of Aaron on Mount Hor (63);
whose tomb was now before us, would seem to con
firm. About mid-day, when the weather was
somewhat clearer, we perceived a number of armed
men, some mounted, coming up the valley from
the north-eastward ; the horsemen were Sheikhs
Yousouf and Sahlem, with their own attendants,
and some few others with lances ; the total num
ber of these was seven ; the infantry followed,
with their match-locks and muskets, to the
amount of upwards of sixty. They drew up into
something like a line near the camp, and ap
proached it shouting, the women answering with
their usual screams of exultation from the tents,
lee, lee, lee, lee, &c. (6*), but they were not .suf
fered to stand exposed in the way ; such as had

394 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
come out being rudely warned back into their
tents by the men. The sheikhs of Kerek and
Djebal were conducted, each by separate open
ings, into the camp, to the tents allotted to
them ; we found them dispirited and discom
posed at what had happened, and at the con
sequences which were likely to ensue. They re
minded us of their having dissuaded us from press
ing the matter any farther at the camp where we
had last parted, and in their conferences with Abou
Raschid gave him such advice as might be expected
from persons of their years (**) ; old Yousouf par
ticularly, like Nestor in the Iliad, dwelt much
upon what had passed in his youth, and upon
wars in which he had engaged and had found rea
son when too late to repent of. He told his stories
with a great deal of grave action ; but his coun
sels had more effect upon the rest of his audience,
than on the spirited young Arab to whom they
were addressed, who continued staunch in his
determination of waging war (66), and could not
be induced even to shift his ground so far as to
confine his demands in our favour to the sight
of the antiquities only ; strenuously persisting that,
as we had put ourselves under his protection, we
should go wherever he was pleased to carry us,
A deputation arrived from the enemy, and the
old sheikhs tried every argument that experience

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 395
could suggest to induce them to permit us to go
forward ; they were denounced as rebels in the
case of non-compliance, and the consequences
were painted in the strongest colours. No effect
was produced by these conferences. Our party
was continually gaining strength by armed per
sons dropping in from various directions until
night. The reinforcements were distributed
amongst the different tents, and rations were re
fused to such as had ndt brought guns or spears.
The camp now began to assume a very warlike ap
pearance ; the spears stuck in the sand, the saddled
horses before the tents, with the arms hanging
up within, altogether had an imposing effect (6?).
Perceiving that such a concourse of strangers
must distress the camp, we begged to be per
mitted to pay for our food and that of our horses,
but Abou Raschid would not hear of it ; all was
gratuitous, and our animals had abundance.
One circumstance seemed to turn in our fa
vour; Hindi, an Arab chief of very poor and
ordinary appearance, and almost blind, was
represented to us, as a man of great power and
influence, who could command two thousand
guns ; and though this was probably an exagge
ration, yet from the effect which his interference
appears to have had in the sequel, it seems pro
bable that he is a chieftain of considerable power.

396 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
He had been upon ill terms with Abou Raschid,
yet from the time of our first conference with
him at the advanced camp, he had seemed dis
posed to favour our pretensions, and to dissuade
the hostile party from their obstinate opposition,
more especially as he professed great respect for
the written orders of the Turkish government.
On the other hand, it was said that there was
a strong party among his adherents inclined to
prevent his co-operation ; however, towards the
evening of this day, he made a solemn peace with
our chief, and passsed into the enemy's quarters,
with the intention of bringing all his men to act
in concert with Mahommed Abou Raschid, in
open war against them in case of their persisting
another day. Some communication was also
made by letter, but in whose name we did not
learn. The answer was expected, but did not
arrive this night. Towards dark there went a
rumour throughout the camp, that our oppo
nents had given in, and that we should be at
liberty on the morrow to go where we pleased,.
We laid down with this impression on us, and it
was pretty general throughout all the camp.
Our chief seemed proud of matters having been
brought to a favourable end so soon, and said
exultingly, " that there were some who had
the talent of carrying their point with saying

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 397
very little, while others who made a great
noise were obliged to give way, and behaved like
cattle." The same dismal weather continued ; about
midnight there was a cry of thieves in the camp,
and it was found that they were very quietly
sitting at our fire (6a) ; but as there were some of
our people not yet asleep we lost nothing. In
the morning we heard that two spies had also
been detected in the camp (69), but it did not
appear that any further measures had been pur
sued against them, than their dismissal.
May 22. The fog was still thicker ; we were
surprised to find thatthis weather was not deemed
unusual or out of season. It was announced to
us that the men of Wady Mousa did not adhere to
their agreement, but in the plainest terms had
declared, " that they would oppose us by main
force, and that We should pay with our lives for
any attempt that we should make to advance
within their limits." It appeared that they had
even thrown up some sort of fortification about
the well. Upon our declaring that we did not
wish matters to be pushed to extremities, and
again persisting in confining our desires to the
sight of the antiquities only, Mahommed would
hardly listen to the bearer of the message, and
scarcely came to see us during the whole day.

398 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
Armed reinforcements in small numbers were
continually dropping in. For the last two days,
since the negotiations had been pending, we had
seen so very little of our friend Abou Raschid,
that we feared he was displeased ; and it appeared
that he had avoided us from the moment we had
offered to abandon our object rather than to
proceed to extremities. *¦
May 23. In this predicament we found our
selves this morning ; the result of Hindi's decla
ration was expected with impatience, and almost
every one seemed to think that it must have
great weight with the enemy. We however
heard that their party had also had an accession
of two neighbouring tribes of Arabs who had
declared against us. Old Yousouf was this day
unusually eloquent in our favour giving out that
we were believers in Mahommed, and that our
only motive in wishing to advance, was to pay our
devotions at Aaron's tomb, thus giving a very
plausible turn to the motive of our Journey ; when
asked " if we were of the true faith," he always
replied " they are English." He recapitulated
the list of the documents with which we were
furnished, roundly asserting that we had recom
mendations from Yaffa and Egypt, though he knew
that we had them not, and he attached much im
portance to the presence of our soldier and Tartar;

LETTER V.] THE DEAD SEA. 399
from Constantinople. He mentioned all the places
we had visited in the country, particularly Pal
myra and Szalt ; adding, that this was the first
time we had been stopped. He dwelt again, in
the true character of an old chieftain, on the events
of wars that had happened in his early days. His
drift was to carry matters by fair means if pos
sible, and to restrain the impetuosity of Abou Ra
schid, whom he warned of the usual-effects of hasty
measures, and, for the first time alluded to an old
grudge which the people of Wady Mousa bore to
wards him, on account of the fate of three or four
of their fellow townsmen whom he had beheaded
at Kerek. The tone, however, of old Yousouf was
considerably changed, and he seemed not alto
gether so adverse to hostilities as he had hitherto
been ; he said, •' I too could bring out the men
of Kerek," and he spoke of their numbers and
.eourage, but he did not pledge himself to bring
them out.
In the course of this morning it had been dis
covered that one of the ruins which we were in
quest of was in sight from our mountain ; it proved
to be that which we called the palace; it was
discernible through a narrow strait formed by
two craggy cliffs, which gave it a very pictu
resque appearance. By following the brow of
the mountain we gained a sight also of the

400 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
theatre cut out of the live rock, and of several of
the tombs. Though they were at a considerable
distance we could make them out pretty well
with the help of a spy-glass; this sight was a
great encouragement to us, as it appeared pos
sible to reach the spot without passing at all near
the enemy's quarters ; and we began to concert
among ourselves some means of getting there
secretly in the night, should all other expedients
fail. While we were deliberating on this subject, we
saw a great cavalcade entering our camp from the
southward. There were many lances and mounted
Arabs, and we observed that there were some
amongst the horsemen who wore richer turbans,
more gaudy colours, than is usual amongst Bedou
ins or peasants. As the procession advanced, several
of Abou Raschid's Arabs went out, and led the
horses of the chiefs by the bridles into the camp.
The whole procession alighted at the tent of our
chief, and kissed his turban ; this was the signal
of pacification. Peace was immediately pro
claimed throughout the camp, and notice was
given that the men bearing arms who had come
from a distance, many of whom had dropped in
that very morning, were to return to their re-
pective homes.
Our late opponents were now willing to con
sent to our setting out that afternoon ; but by

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. < 401
the general wish it was deferred until the next
day. We heard music and singing in several
of the tents. One of the chiefs of the party who
had been adverse to us, came very shortly to pay
us a visit; amongst other things, he said in his
excuse that he had misconceived the object of our
journey ; having supposed us Frenchmen who
came with a design of poisoning the water; they
dissembled the real motive of their change of
conduct, which there can be little doubt was fear,
and imputed their concessions entirely to their
respect for the sultan and the pashaws. To make
the matter more formal, there came a person who
was in the employ of the pashaw of Damascus, with
two attendants, to read and examine our papers.
It proved, however, that he was wholly unac
quainted with the Turkish language, and in con
sequence confined himself entirely to the boyour-
dees of the two pashaws, which he declared to
be satisfactory and sufficient, although, in point
of fact, they were altogether foreign to the
question, being addressed to persons and places
in quite a different part of the country. This
man, in recompence for his decision, in the course
of the evening attempted, through old Yousouf,
to lay claim to some remuneration, but Yousouf
fought off his pretensions, by asserting, that for his
own part he had not seen the colour of our gold;
D D

402 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
which was so far true, as the four hundred piastres
were deposited in the hands of the Greek priest
at Kerek.
In the evening we were visited by Abou Raschid,
,who was in high spirits; the weather had been
considerably clearer this day, but it was still
much colder than might have been expected at
this season of the year. During the day we had
explored the high land to the eastward of the
camp, and found it dovered, upon both its sides
and on its summit, with lines of dry wall, and
solid masses of the same. The former appeared
to be the traces of former cultivation ; the solid
ruins seemed to be only the remains of towers Q°)
for watching in harvest and vintage time. The
whole neighbourhood of this spot bears similar
traces of former industry, all which seem to indi
cate the vicinity of a great metropolis.
May 24. The morning was less unfavourable
than those which had preceded it. Soon after
sun-rise we set out from the camp ; there were
in all about fifty persons, amongst whom were
the deputation from Wady Mousa and the men
of Damascus, who had passed the night in the
tents of our chief. The first part of our road
was the same which led to the advanced camp
where we had been on the twentieth ; but before
we reached that spot we turned off from it in an

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 403
E. S. E. direction, constantly descending. As we
got lower down, we passed into a rocky and steep
defile, where the footing is extremely bad, and
the passage so commanded from the sides, and
intersected by huge masses of sand-stone detached
and rolled down from above, that it was obvious
that a very small force would be capable of
holding it against a great superiority of 'numbers.
Towards the lower extremity of this pass the
path branched off two several ways ; it had
previously been whispered to us by our chief,
that we should not seem to take any notice of
it, but let the men of Wady Mousa go their Way,
while we should follow one of our own party,
who would go forward and guide us in a different
direction. When we reached the point of separa
tion, the others not being apprized of this deter
mination, said all they could to induce Abou
Raschid to ascend to their tents, and came even
to high words with him, but they could not pre
vail, he having sworn an oath, that neither we
nor himself should eat or drink at their expense,
or within the limits of their territory. Some few
even followed us for a time, hoping to persuade us
to turn back with them, but before we reached the
valley of Wady Mousa they had all withdrawn.
Our defile brought us directly down into this
place, whose name had become so familiar to

404 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
us ; it is, at the point where we entered it, a
stony but cultivated valley of moderate size,
without much character or beauty, running in a
direction from E. to W. A lesser hollow, sloping
down to it from the southward, meets it at an
angle ; at the upper end of the latter valley is the
village seen over stages of hanging fruit-grounds
and gardens, which are watered by a spring.
At the point of junction of these valleys a source
issues from the rock and forms a brook, to which
the other is contributary ; to this Abou Raschid
pointed, with a sneer of exultation, as we crossed
it, observing, " there is the water about which
there has been so much contention and dispute."
It flows towards the westward, and is, in point of
fact, the head of the stream which Pliny has dig
nified with the name of a river. We approached
no nearer to the village than this point, but as
the distance did not exceed a quarter of a mile,
we could plainly perceive that there was nothing
ancient there ; that the houses were mean and
ragged, and not more than forty or fifty in
number. On the summit of a broad, green hill,
rising above it, we could not only distinguish
the large encampment to which the inhabitants
had retired on the night of the twentieth, but
could plainly see them collected in great numbers
on the brow looking down and watching us.

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 405
Some hundred yards below this spring begin
the out-skirts of the vast Necropolis of Petra.
Many door-ways are visible, upon different levels,
cut in the side of the mountain, which towards
this part begins to assume a more rugged aspect ;
the most remarkable tombs stand near the road,
which follows the course of the brook. The first
of these is on the right hand, and is cut in a mass
of whitish rock, which is in some measure insu
lated and detached from the general range. The
centre represents the front of a square tower,
with pilasters at the corner, and with several
successive bands of frieze and entablature above ;
two low wings project from it at right angles, and
present each of them a recess, in the manner of
a portico, which consists of two columns whose
capitals have an affinity with the Doric order,
between corresponding antae ; there are, however,
no triglyphs above. Three sides of a square area
are thus enclosed; the fourth has been shut in by
a low wall and two colossal lions or\, either side
of the entrance, all much decayed. The interior
has been a place of sepulture for several bodies.
On the front are little niches and hollows cut,
as if. for the reception of votive offerings.
Farther on, upon the left, is a wide facade of
rather a low proportion, loaded with ornaments
in the Roman manner, but in a bad taste, with an

406 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
infinity of broken lines and unnecessary angles
and projections, and multiplied pediments and
half pediments, and pedestals set upon columns
that support nothing. It has more the air of a
fantastical scene in a theatre than an architec
tural work in stone ; and for unmeaning richness,
and littleness of conception, Mr. Bankes seemed
to think, might have been the work of Boromini
himself, whose style it exactly resembles, and
carries to the extreme. What is observed of this
front is applicable, more or less, to every specimen
of Roman design at Petra. The door- way has
triglyphs over the entablature, and flowers in the
metopes. The chamber within is not so large as
the exterior promises ; it has a broad, raised
platform round three sides, on which bodies were
probably disposed. Immediately over this front
is another of almost equal extent, but so wholly
distinct from it, that even the centres do not
correspond; the door-way has the same orna
ments. The rest of the body of the design is no
more than a plain front, without any other deco
ration than a single moulding. Upon this are
set, in a recess, four tall and taper pyramids ;
their effect is singular and surprising, but
combining too little with the rest of the ele
vation to be good. Our attention was the
more attracted by this monument, as it pre-

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 407
sents, perhaps, the only existing example of
pyramids so applied, though we read of them as
placed in a similar manner on the summit of the
tomb of the Maccabees, and of the Queen of
Adiabame, both in the neighbouring province of
Palestine. The interior of the mausoleum is of mo
derate size, with two sepulchral recesses upon
each side, and one in form of an arched alcove at
the upper end ; a flight of steps leads up to the
narrow terrace upon which it opens. The sub
joined cut may convey an idea of some of these
singular excavations.

The sides of the valley were now becoming
precipitous and rugged to a high degree, and
approaching nearer and nearer to each other, so
that it might rather deserve the name of a ravine,
with high detached masses of rock standing up
here and there in the open space. Of these the

408 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
architects had availed themselves. In some in
stances the large and lofty towers are represented
in relievo on the lower part of the precipice, and
the live rock is cut down on all sides, so as to
make the resemblance complete. The greater
number of them present themselves to the high
road, but there are others which stand back in the
wild nooks and recesses of the mountain. All
seemed to have been sepulchral, and it was here
that we first observed the features of a sort of
architecture that was new to us, and is, perhaps,
not elsewere to be found.
To erect quadrangular towers for sepulchres,
seems to have been the fashion in several inland
districts of the east ; they abound at Palmyra,
and are seen in the valley of Jehoshaphat near
Jerusalem, &c. : but the details and ornaments of
these, universally betray an imitation of Roman
architecture, whilst at Petra they bear all the
marks of a peculiar and indigenous style ; their
sides have generally a slight degree of that incli
nation towards each other, which is one of the
characteristics of Egyptian edifices, and they are
crowned with the Egyptian torus and concave
frieze. A very remarkable superstructure rises
above as a parapet. Two corresponding flights of
steps are represented in relievo, ascending in oppo
site directions, from two points near the centre,

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 409
thus "V^ j, ; they are connected together by a
horizontal line drawn between the uppermost
steps, and there are usually from four to six. At
the angles are pilasters ; in many instances they
have a considerable diminution upwards ; the
capital is very peculiar, and appears like the
rough draft of an unfinished Ionic capital as it
comes from the quarry. It is, however, almost
universal on these tombs, and may be called
the Arabian order of architecture. An entab
lature and frieze, little differing from the Ionic
or Corinthian, rests upon these pilasters ; above
that is a blank space, in the nature of a low attic,
which is finished with the Egyptian torus and
frieze, bearing the superstructure which I have
described. There is one single example, near the
theatre, of an upper door-way opening in this
attic, to which there is no visible access ; there
may possibly, however, be some stairs in' the
interior; the lower door-way is unluckily choaked,
so that we could not ascertain. In some
instances the pilasters are multiplied to four in
the front, and are rounded instead of being
angular. What is the least peculiar in the
details of these Arabian elevations, is the deco
rations of the door-ways, which have in many
instances a pediment not distinguishable from
those of the Romans, and in others a plain hori-

410 ¦ TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
zontal architrave with the same character in the
mouldings. It is remarkable, that in very many
instances the whole frame and ornament of the
door has been of separate pieces, and grafted on
upon the solid rock. Sometimes there are
cavities for pegs or rivets which would seem to
haVe fastened these decorations in metal or in
wood ; in others they seem to have been of
marble or some finer sort of stone, let into grooves,
which shew, in the hollow, their exact form. We
were at a loss to account for the apparent
conformity of this single member of the building
to the rules of the Greeks and Romans ; it seems
too strong to be accidental ; and if we suppose
the imitation to have taken place so far back as
the first Macedonian expedition into this country,
it will still make the tombs, by many ages, more
recent than it is probable that many of them
really are ; since, from the days of Rekem, King of
the Midianites, who passes for the founder of
Petra, to those of Alexander the Great, there
must have been a long suite of kings, and these
monarchs probably had tombs. Yet if the form
of the door-ways be judged decidely posterior to
that period, it is so general, that few if any of
the larger sort will remain for that early dynasty.
If we bring them still later, and suppose them a
Roman innovation, the difficulty is increased,

LETTER V.J TRAVELS ROUND 411
because we must then believe a much greater lapse
of ages to have passed in a flourishing kingdom,
without any considerable monuments, when archi
tecture was not unknown. It is possible such of
the door frames as were not cut in the solid, may
have been added afterwards, but this does not ap
pear very probable, nor does it entirely remove the
difficulty ; especially, as in some instances in the
higher parts of the design, broad bands seem to
have been attached in a similar manner, which very
probably were charged with inscriptions.
It is surprising, amongst such a multitude of
tombs, to find so few with any inscription to re
cord, for whom they were constructed ; we only
met with two instances ; one was on the tomb,
which had a door in the attic already mentioned,
as being near the theatre ; it is much mutilated,
the other, which we copied, is on the left hand
side of the track leading towards Dibdebar, on
a large front of pure Arabian design, with four
attached columns ; and in this monument the
architect, from failure, or a defective vein in the
sand-stone, has been obliged to carry up the
lower half in masonry, so as to meet the upper,
which is sculptured on the face of the mountain,
where also there were flaws, and here pieces have
been let in to make up what was defective ; these
last remain, but the whole substruction has disap-

412 N TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
peared entirely, and the upper part is left hang
ing from the rock above without any base what
ever. This is not the only proof that is to be
found, among the remains at Petra, that tiiose
who wrought on the live rock, contrary to the
necessary practice of builders, began their work
at the top. To return to the inscription ; )t is
upon an oblong tablet, without frame or relief,
but is easily distinguished from the rest of the
surface by being more delicately wrought ; there
projects, from each of its ends, those wings in
form of the blade of an axe, which are common
both in the Roman and Greek tablets, and which
would seem to have been in their origin, for the
purpose of receiving screws or fastenings, without
encroaching on the part inscribed ; thus [^j }Cj ¦
This original purpose seems to have been par
ticularly kept in view in the present instance,
since, although the whole is in the solid, there is
upon each side.a stain of metal, which must be
the effect of studs of bronze actually driven in,
to giVe the whole tablet the appearance of a se
parate piece. The letters are well cut, and in a
wonderful state of preservation, owing to the
shelter which they receive from the projection of
cornices, and an eastern aspect. None of our
party had ever seen these characters before, ex
cepting Mr. Bankes, who upon comparing them,

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 4 1 3
found, them to be exactly similar to those .which
he had seen scratched on the rocks in ihe Wady
Makootub, and about the foot of Mount Sinai-
He subsequently found a passage in Diodorus
Siculus, wherein he speaks of a letter written by
the Nabathasi of Petra, to Antigonus, in the Syriac
character; though this, perhaps, is no proof that
the Syriac was in use with them, since they may
have chosen that language only, as more familiar
to the court they were addressing. The tablet has
five long lines, and immediately underneath, a
single figure on a larger scale, probably the date ;
the very same occurs at the bottom of the Hebrew
characters on the tomb of Aaron. The interior
of the tomb we have been describing has two
chambers, with recesses for bodies, but no pe
culiarity worthy of notice; the front is crowned
with a double- flight of steps in the usual form.
In many instances, in lieu of two flights di
verging from each other, they are brought to
meet in the form of pyramids, being reduced to
a much smaller scale, and repeated in the man
ner of battlements, thus

to the number of three,
or five entire, with the half of one at each ex
tremity. We have preferred collecting into one
view, the most remarkable features of .these
tombs, before we advance further ; without con-

414 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
fining ourselves strictly to those which are met
with in the approach from Wady Mousa to the
city, in order to generalize the description, and
avoid interrupting the narrative by alluding to
them as they present themselves, which is the
case not only in every avenue to the city, and
upon every precipice that surrounds it, but even
intermixed almost promiscuously with its public
and domestic edifices. To return to the descrip
tion of the eastern approach to Petra: as we
advanced, the natural features of the defile grew
more and more imposing at every step, and the
excavations and sculpture more frequent on both
sides, till it presented at last a continued street of
tombs, beyond which the rocks gradually ap
proaching each other, seemed all at once to close
without any outlet. There is, however, one
frightful chasm for the passage of the stream,
which furnishes, as it did anciently, the only avenue
to Petra on this side. It is impossible to con
ceive any thing more awful or sublime than such
an approach; the width is not more than just suf
ficient for the passage of two horsemen abreast,
the sides are in all parts perpendicular, varying
from four hundred to seven hundred feet in
height, and they often overhang to such a de
gree, that without their absolutely meeting, the
sky is intercepted and completely shut out for

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 415
one hundred yards together, and there is little
more light than in a cavern.
The screaming of the eagles, hawks, and
owls, who were soaring above our heads in con
siderable numbers, seemingly annoyed at any one
approaching their lonely habitation, added much
to the singularity of this scene (71). The tama
risk, the wild fig, and the oleander, grow luxuri
antly about the road, rendering the passages often
difficult; in some places they hang down most
beautifully from the cliffs and crevices where they
had taken root ; the caper plant was also in luxu
riant growth, the continued shade furnishing
them with moisture.
Very near the first entrance into this romantic
pass, a bold arch is thrown across at a great
height, connecting the opposite sides of the cliff.
Whether this was part of an upper road upon the
summit of the mountain, or whether it be a por
tion of an aqueduct, which seems less probable,
we had no opportunity of examining; but as the
traveller passes under it, its appearance is most sur
prising, hanging thus above his head betwixt two
rugged masses apparently inaccessible. Imme
diately under it are sculptured niches in the rock,
destined probably for statues; and we suspect
that by careful inspection inscriptions might be
found there; hut the position in which they are

416 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
viewed is disadvantageous, and the height so
great that it would require a good glass to dis
tinguish them. Farther down, upon a much
lower level, there is an object frequently repeated
in sculpture along the road side, which we were
at a loss to explain: an altar is represented in
a niche, upon which is set a mass of a lumpish
form, sometimes square and sometimes curved in
its outline, or rising in other instances to a shar
per or obtuser cone; in one instance three of
them are coupled together in one niche. It
might possibly be a representation of the god
Terminus, or perhaps one of the stones which
were objects of worship amongst the Arabs, down
to the time of the coming of Mahommed. The
number of these representations on the face of
the rock is very considerable ; in some instances
there are many, almost contiguous, with Greek
inscriptions on them, all of which are too much
defaced to be of use in explaining their object.
The ravine, without changing much its general
direction, presents so many elbows and windings
in its course, to which the track, of necessity,
conforms, that the eye can seldom penetrate for
ward beyond a few paces, and is often puzzled
to distinguish in what direction the passage will
open, so completely does it appear obstructedi
The exact spot was not pointed out to us, but it

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 4 1 7
is somewhere amidst these natural horrors, that
upwards of thirty pilgrims from Barbary, were
murdered last year by the men of Wady Mousa
on their return from Mecca. The wrapping
cloak of one of them was afterwards offered to
us for sale at Ipseyra, and one of their watches
at Zaphoely. Salvator Rosa never conceived so
savage and suitable a quarter for banditti. The
brook has at this season disappeared beneath the
soil, but the manner in which its occasional over
flowings have broken up the antique pavement,
and the slippery passes which the running of
the waters have made, by polishing the live rock
where it had been cut away to form the road,
sufficiently prove the necessity of providing
another course for its waters. A trough, carried
along near the foot of the precipice upon the
left hand side, was destined to confine the water,
and to convey it upon a higher than the natural
level to the city. At a considerable distance
down the ravine this water-course crosses over
to the opposite side; and towards its extremity
may be traced passing along at a great height in
earthen "pipes, bedded and secured with mortar,
in horizontal grooves cut in the face of the rock,
and even across the architectural fronts of some
of the tombs, which makes it probable that it is
posterior to them. E E

4 1 8 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
We followe4 this sort of half subterranean
passage for the space of nearly two miles, the
sides increasing in height as the path continually
descended, while the tops of the precipices re-
tamed their former level. Where they are at the
highest, a beam of stronger light breaks, in at the
close of the dark perspective, and opens to view;
half seen at first through the tall narrow opening,
columns, statues, and cornices, of a fight and
finished taste, as if fresh from the chisel, without
tile tints or weather stains of age, and executed
in a stone of a pale rose colour, which was
warmed at the moment we came in sight of them
with the full light of the morning sun. The dark
green of the shrubs that grow in this perpetual
shade, and the sombre appearance of the passage
from whence we were about to issue, formed a
fine contrast with the glowing colour of the
edifice. We know not with what to compare this
scene ; perhaps there is nothing in the. world that
reseinbles it. Only a portion of a very extensive
architectural elevation is seen at first, but it
ha? been so contrived that a statue with ex
panded wings, perhaps pf victory, just fills the
centre of the aperture in front, which being
closed below by the sides of the rock folding
over each other, gives to the figure the appear^
ance of being suspended in the air at a consi-

y 'of toe
^OFV

Thisdirow shews the directioThof die uzrgeTemple-
>^. discovered in, the distance and unexplored
hearing JE.N1S.

^*V

%

X

From, die appearance of some
of the Heights, it would seem,
that they Tiad served asfosts
of ' Hetreat.in. cases of-rfttack .

**

/

A

G-xound. Plan.
oft.
Great Tb

u

A.^7 Conical orSuganloafhill.only a^eessihle
lvv.drcularftigntofTUuTO~.rtep, euxinthe
live rod, leaduuj to its Summit: unexplored.
B.Frecipice withsttps about ^ootiethigh.very
difficult, of ascent, no part, leiru, pracneahle
without the assisUmcc of the hand!- JTear »>
this spot t/u unexplored, Temple to* first
discovered. ¦
C^asam^venue of approach 1 miles Tory,
the (Jiffs leina from. 400 to 700 fiethyh,
D.Tomi from. Whence the Colossal Vase is
visible, hearina between Jf- andJT-IV:
E.-Z7u> Talley through, which. fheStrecun run,
is very-extensile, it, end is ahrupt gopreapitous
butihereis oneJEa^intherighthandcorner
asj.ou.30 Tip, which con only he ascended,
with considerate dirncuj^ by elimbina .
There are Vines, Mulberry andFig -trees Sec.
scattered about it. doubdess the remain, of**
anciencc/ardens .
F. One of these Volleys is supposed to lead to
the unexplored Temple, those that: ~e examine?
cndpredpitously, & there is nogeavu, out of them.

Jtcdua-,1 bv .TFDcs.iii.u. BJf ' ^ SrSiufrared bv JKBaiwocd.
'/J,,, fflufrJforrRow, JTamwywiv .

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 419*
derable height; the ruggedness of the cliffs below
setting off the sculpture to the highest advantage.
The rest of the design opened gradually at every
pace as we advanced, till the narrow defile whieh
had continued thus far, without any increase of
breadth, spreads on both sides into an open area
of a moderate size, whose sides are by nature in
accessible, and present the same awful and
romantic, features as the avenues which lead to
it : this opening gives admission to a great body of
light from the eastward. The position is one of the
most beautiful that could be imagined for the front
of a great temple, the richness and exquisite finish
of whose decorations offers a most remarkable con
trast to the savage scenery which surrounds it.
It is of a very lofty proportion, the elevation
comprising two stories. The taste is not exactly
to be commended, but many of the details and
ornaments, and the size and proportion of the
great door-way especially, to which there are
five steps of ascent from the portico, are very
noble. No part is built, the whole being purely
a work of excavation, and its minutest embellish
ments, : wherever the hand of man has not pur
posely effaced and obliterated them, are so per
fect, that it may be doubted whether any work of
the ancients, excepting, perhaps, some on the
banks of the Nile, have come down to our time
so little injured by the lapse of ages. There is,

420 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V,
in fact, scarcely a building of forty years standing
in England, so well preserved in the greater part
of its architectural decorations. Of the larger
members of the architecture nothing is deficient
excepting a single column of the portico ; the
statues are numerous and colossal. Those on
each side of the portico represent, in groups,
each of them, a centaur and a young man. This
part of the work only is imperfect, having been
mutilated, probably by the fanaticism of early
Christians, or Mussulmen, directed against idolatry,
and particularly the human form. In the upper
tier the figures are females, two are winged, and
two appear to have been dancing or much in
action, with some instruments lifted above their
heads, of which that on the left hand seems to be
the Amazonian bipennis. Unfortunately the
centre figure, which was doubtless the principal
one, is too much defaced for her attributes to be
determined ; nor is there any thing in the orna
ments that could enable us to discover to what
divinity the temple has been dedicated. The
principal chamber of the interior is large and
remarkably lofty, but quite plain, with the ex
ception of the door-frames and architraves, of
which there are three ; one at the farther end,
and one at each side, all opening into small and
plain cells. There is also a lateral chamber on
each side, opening from the portico, of a rude

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 42 1
form. The centre of the superstructure, which
comprises the. second story, is a circular elevation
surrounded by columns, with a dome surmounted
by an urn. This latter has not escaped, or
failed to excite the covetousness of the natives.
We heard of it as the deposit of a vast treasure,
" Hasnah-el-FaraoUn," (Treasure of Pharoah,)
as far as Jerusalem ; and that it has been repeat
edly aimed at by mUsket-shot, there are evident
proofs in. the marks of bullets in the stone. No
Qne, however, seems to have succeeded in arriving
at it by climbing, which would indeed be a
difficult task ; the green stains on either side
would lead to the, supposition that the handles
had been of bronze. It is doubtful whether one
of the perforations, by a musket-ball, does not
shew that the urn is hollow. Above the monu-
nfent the face of the rock is left over-hanging,
and it is to this that the excellent preservation of
its details is to be ascribed. The half pediments,
which terminate the wings of the building, are
finished at the top with eagles, which, combined
with a style of architecture differing little from the
Roman, can leave no doubt that this great effort
of art is posterior to the time of Trajan's con
quest. Some of the heights, whose steep sides inclose
the area in front of the temple, are rendered ac
cessible, though with great difficulty, by flights

422 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
of steps cut in them; we found the ascent, in
some instances, so steep and slippery that we
were obliged to take off our shoos, and also to
use our hands nearly as much as we did our feet.
Some small pyramids hewn out of the rock
are on the summit of these heights; and we
discovered a much higher conical point of moun
tain, to whose summit there is a regular spiral
staircase of ascent, cut with great care and
neatness, the same point possibly on which
We could distinguish from another quarter, a
single pillar or obelisk; we first observed, also,
from the heights above the temple, the great vase
which crowns another monument to the N. W.
The wide space which constitutes the area before
the temple is about fifty yards in width, and
about three times as long. It terminates to the
south in a wild precipitous cliff, ' rendered accessi
ble by the steps above-mentioned to the N. N. W.;
the defile assumes, for about three hundred yards,
the same features which characterise the eastern
approach, with an infinite variety of tombs, both
Arabian and Roman, on either side. This pass
conducts to the theatre, and here the ruins of
the city burst on the view in their full grandeur,
shut in on the opposite side by barren, craggy
precipices, from which numerous ravines and val
leys like those we had passed, branch out in all
directions; the sides of the mountains, covered

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 425
With an endless variety of excavated tombs and
private dwellings f2), -presented altogether, the
most singular scene we ever beheld; and we nluSt
despair to give the reader an idea of the singular
effect Of rocks, tinted with most extraordinary
hues, Whose summits present us with nature in
her most Savage and romantic form, whilst their
bases are worked out in all the symmetry and
regularity of art, with colonnades and pediments
and ranges of corridors adhering to the perpen
dicular surface. The short notice of Petra, by
Pliny, is as follows : " the Nabatasi inhabit a city
called Petra, in a hollow somewhat less than two
tiiiles in cireumferehce, surrounded by inaccessi
ble mountains, with a stream running through it.
It is distant frOm the toWn of Gaza, on the coast,
six hundred mileS; and from the Persian gulf
One hundred and twenty-two." 6th book, 28 c.
Strabo sayS " the capital of the Nabatsei is called
Petra; it lies in a spot which is in itself level and
plain, but fortified all round With a barrier 6i
rocks attd precipices; within, furnished with
Springs of excellent quality for the supply Of
water and the irrigation of gardens ; without the
circuit, the country is in a great measure desert,
and especially towards Judaea. Jericho is at the*
distance of three or four days." He adds, that
one of the royal lifieage always resided at

424 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
Petra, and had a sort of counsellor attached to
him who was entitled his brother; he premises
their laws and customs.
It will be seen that these two ancient geogra
phers, in characterising the position of the city, not
only agree with one another, but will be found
sufficiently conformable to the reality, though,
strictly speaking, the situation can neither be
called a valley with Pliny, nor a plain with
Strabo; yet it is certainly both low in position,
and level in surface, when compared with the
crags and precipices that surround it. It is an
area in the bosom of a mountain, swelling into
mounds and intersected with gullies; but the
whole ground is of such a nature as may be con
veniently built upon, and has neither ascent nor
descent inconveniently steep. Within the actual
circuit of the city there are two mounds, which
seem to have been entirely covered with build
ings, being still strewed over with a prodigious
quantity of loose stones, tiles, and fragments of
ancient ware, of a very light and delicate fabric.
The bed of the river, taking its course to the
N. W., flows between these two spots ; the water
has now sunk beneath the surface, and perhaps
creeps through the rubbish which ages have accu
mulated in its bed ; great part of it seems to
have been arched over in the same manner as the

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 425
stream at Philadelphia. In the low ground, on
the left bank of the stream, seem to have been
some of the principal edifices; the first, to the
N. W. from the theatre, was an archway of a very
florid architecture with pilasters having pannels
enriched with foliage, in the manner of Palmyra:
the whole is much ruined. The arch was the in
troduction to a great pile of building, standing
nearly at right angles to it. This building had
a door on one side; on the three others, it was
decorated, with a frieze of triglyphs, and large
flowers in the metopes. Beams of wood are let
in at intervals between the courses of the, ma
sonry, and continue to this day, a strong proof
of the dryness of the climate. The front had a
portico of four columns ; this part is much fallen
into ruins. The interior of the edifice was di
vided into three parallel chambers, and there
seem to have been several stories. This interior
economy made us suspect that it was not a
temple, but rather a palace or some private
edifice. Whatever may ¦> have been its nature,
it seems to have ,been destined to the same
purpose as the ruined building at " Bait-el-
Garm," which we afterwards saw from our camp
above Dibdebar, and which is the only con
siderable work of masonry existing at Petra.
Upon the summit of the other mound there is a

426 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
mass of ruins of some solidity* but no very defi
nite shape. The Nubian geographer, climate
three, says that the houses of Petra Were exca
vated in the rock ; now, that this was not univer
sally true, is evident from the great quantity of
stones employed in the lesser kind of edifices
which are scattered over the whole site ; but it is
also true, that there are grottos in great numbers,
which were certainly not sepulchral, especially
near the palace ; there is one in particular Which
presents a front of four windows, with a large
and lofty door-way in the centre. In the interior,
one chamber of about sixty feet in length* and of
a breadth proportioned, Occupies three of the
windows and the door ; at the lower end* the
fourth window seems allotted to a very small
sleeping chamber, which is not brought down to
the level of the floor of the great apartment, but
has a chamber below it of the same size, receiv
ing no light but from the entrance^ This, which
seems the best of all the excavated residences,
has no ornament whatever on the exterior ; and
the same applies to all the other excavations of
this nature. The access to this house is by a
shelf gained out of the side of the mountain (73) ;
other inferior habitations open upon it, and more
particularly an oven, and some cisterns. These
antique dwellings are close to an angle of the

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 427
mountain, where the bed of the stream, after hav
ing traversed the city, passes again into a narrow
defile, along whose steep sides a sort of excavated
suburb is continUed, of very small and mean
chambers, set one above another, without much
regularity, like so many pigeon-holes in the rock,
With flights of steps or narrow inclined planes
leading up to them. The main wall and ceiling
only of some were in the solid; the fronts and
partitions being built of very indifferent ma
sonry with cement.
Following this defile farther doWri, the river
re-appears, flowing with considerable rapidity ;
though the water is plentiful, it is with difficulty
that its course can be followed, from the luxu
riance of the shrubs that surround it,- and
Obstruct every track. Besides the oleander, which
is common to all the water-courses in this
eountry, one may recognise among the plants
which choak this valley, some which are probably
the descendants of those that adorned the gardens,
and supplied the market of the capital of Arabia;
the carOb, fig, mulberry, vine, and pomegranate
line the river-side; a very beautiful species of
aloe also grows in this valley, bearing a flower of
an orange hue, shaded to scarlet; in some instances
it had upwards of one hundred blossoms in a
bunch.

428 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
Amongst the niches for votive offerings in the
mountain's side, some of which are cut to the-
height of thirty feet, are pyramids and obelisks ;
and in one instance there is an altar between
two palm trees. The position of the theatre has
been mentioned ; it is the first object which
presents itself to the traveller on entering Petra
from the eastward. It is entirely hewn out of
the live rock; the diameter of the podium is one
hundred and twenty feet, the number of seats
thirty-three, and of the cunii three. There was
no break, and consequently no vomitories. The
scene, unfortunately, was built, and not excavated ;
the whole is fallen, and the bases of four co
lumns only remain on its interior face. The
theatre is surrounded by sepulchres; every
avenue leading to it is full of them, and one may
safely say, that a hundred of the largest dimensi- .
ons are visible from it. Indeed, throughout almost
every quarter of this metropolis, the depositories
of the dead, must have presented themselves con
stantly to the eyes of the inhabitants, and have
almost out-numbered the habitations of the
living ; there is a long line of them not far from
the theatre, at such an angle as not to be com
prehended in the view from it, but which must
have formed a principal object for the city
itself.

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 429
The largest of the sepulchres had originally
three stories, of which the lowest presented four
portals, with large columns set between them ;
and the second and third, a row of eighteen Ionic
columns each, attached to the facade ; the live
rock being insufficient for the total elevation; a
part of the story was grafted on in niasonry, and
is for the most part fallen away. The four
portals of the basement open into as many cham
bers, very dissimilar, both in distribution and
arrangements, but all sepulchral, and without any
communication between them. In one were
three recesses which seem to have been orna
mented with marble, or some other extraneous
material. Almost contiguous to this extensive
front, is another somewhat smaller but equally
rich, whose design has a great analogy, especially
in the circumstance of the half pediment, and the
circular lantern in the centre, to the beautiful
temple of the eastern approach. Though a
general symmetry pervades this piece of architec
ture, yet there are irregularities observable in its
doors ahd windows, which may be explained by
the circumstance of their opening into apartments
no way connected with each other, and intended
apparently for different families. A little further
to the S. E. an area is gained upon the slope of
the mountain, by excavating it, so as to form

430 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
three sides of a square ; two of these have been
formed into Doric porticos ; the third, which is
the loftiest, as being that which abuts against the
body of the mountain, is occupied by a lofty
front, decorated with four engaged columns of
the same order, but without triglyphs. A pedi
ment surmounts the frieze, supporting an urn, in
all respects similar to that on the temple of the
eastern approach. A door-way, with a window
over it, fills the centre, and there are three windows
in the attic, the centre one of which exhibits two
half-length figures in basso-relievo. In the ap
proach to this tomb there were arched substruc
tions of great extent, now fallen into ruins. It is
surprising to reflect that monuments of so vast a
scale should be executed subsequent to the
Roman conquest, since after that period we can
look upon them as no more than the tombs of
private individuals. Whence should come so
much wealth, and such a taste for magnificence
after the country had lost its independence, it is
difficult to conceive ; it is possible, however, that a
trade by the Red Sea with India, or even the
caravan trade with the spice country, may have
imported such riches into the place, as to give the
inhabitants the same fondness for ostentation and
ornament, observable at Palmyra, which owed its
wealth to the same source. Yet to consider a

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 43 1
mausoleum of upwards of seventy or eighty feet
high, with lateral porticos; and flights of terraces
upon arched work leading up to it, as the effect
of vanity of some obscure individual in a remote
corner of the Roman Empire, has something in it
surprising and almost unaccountable. The in-?
terior was disposed of in one large and lofty
chamber, having six recesses, with grooves in them
at the further end.
On the establishment of Christianity these six
recesses have been converted into three, for the
reception of the altars, and the whole apartment
has been made to serve as a church; the
fastenings for the tapestry and pictures are still
visible in all the walls, and near an angle is an
inscription in red paint, recording the date of
consecration. These were the only vestiges of
a Christian establishment that we were enabled
to discover throughout the remains of Petra,
though it was a metropolitan see.
Diodorus Siculus has a long account of the ex
pedition sent by Antigonus against the Nabatasi ;
he mentions that their riches were very great in
gold and spices, and that such of them as were
feeble and infirm were left lirmvog ntr^, which he
calls afterwards a place of prodigious natural
strength, but without any walls ; and distant
two days' journey from any inhabited place.
In the second expedition, it is said there was but

432 traVels round [letter v.
one way of access to it, which was artificial.
The loftiness of the post is afterwards mentioned.
It is difficult to apply this description to Wady
Mousa. Upon some of the high points of rock
that rise about the skirts of the city, and tower
above them, the remains of walled forts are
visible from below ; and as it is probable there was
an acropolis, it must be looked for in some of
these. Two days were spent upon these ruins, from
day-break until dusk, and yet it will be seen by
what has been said, that this time was very
insufficient to complete an examination of them.
It was impossible to remain any longer, for
although Abou Raschid attended personally with
us the whole time, yet having forced us to decline
visiting Abou Zettum in so abrupt a manner,
and having but few attendants, he was never at
his ease, and constantly urged us to depart.
On the first afternoon, we undertook the ascent
to the little edifice, which is visible from all
the country round, upon the very highest and
most rugged pinnacle of this range of moun
tain; and is called " the Tomb of Aaron."
The Tomb of Moses has been so grossly mis
placed by the Mussulmen, who shew it half a
day's journey beyond Jordan to the westward,
that we might look with some suspicion to one
assigned to his brother, were it not that Josephus

LETTER v.] The dead sea. 433
expressly says of the place of his decease, that it
was near Petra (74). Compare also Mosera with
Mousa, and it seems that the monument and the
ruins mutually authenticate each other ; we had no
doubt, therefore, that the height which we were
going to ascend, is the Mount Hor of Scripture.
The base of the highest pinnacle of the mountain
is a little removed from the skirts of the city to
the westward; we rode to its foot over a rugged
and broken track, passing in the way many sepul
chres, similar to those which have been described.
A singular monument presents itself upon the
left hand; an obtuse cone, produced by the
coils of a spiral, is represented as standing on
avast square pedestal or altar, the whole being
obtained out of one of the peaked summits of the
rock. Not far from thence, close to, the way side,
is the same representation in relievo, Within a niche
which we have remarked upon in the eastern ap
proach* the form of the recess which surrounds
the altar rising into the figure of a sugar-loaf.
No where is the extraordinary colouring of these"
mountains more striking than in the road to the
Tomb of Aaron which we followed, where the rock
sometimes presented a deep, sometime a paler blue,
and sometimes was occasionally streaked with red,
or shaded off to lilac or purple, sometimes a salmon-
colour was veined in waved lines and circles, with
F F

434 travels round [letter v.
crimson and even scarlet, so as, to; resemble
exactly the colour of raw meat ; in other, places
there are livid stripes of yellow or bright orange,
and in some parts all the different colours were
ranged side by side in parallel strata ; there are
portions also with paler tints, and some quite
white, but these last, seem to be soft, and not
good for preserving the. sculpture. It is this
wonderful variety of colours observable through
out the whole range of mountains, that gives to
Petra one of its most characteristic ; beauties ;
the facades of the tombs, tastefully as they are
sculptured, owe much of their imposing ap
pearance to this infinite diversity of hues in the
stone. We engaged an Arab shepherd as our guide,,
and leaving Abou Raschid with our servants, and
horses, where the steepness of the ascent com
mences, we began to mount the track, which is
extremely steep and toilsome, and affords but an
indifferent, footing. In most parts the pilgrim,
must pick his way as he .can, and frequently on
his hands and knees. Where by nature it would
have been impassable, there are flights of rude
steps, or inclined planes, constructed of stones-
laid together, and here and there are niches to
receive the foot-steps cut in the live rock ; the
impression of pilgrims', feet are scratched in the

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 435
rock in many places, but without inscriptions.
^Much juniper grows on the mountain, almost to
the very summit, and many flowering plants
which we had not observed elsewhere ; some of
these are very beautiful; most of them are thorny.
On the top there is an overhanging shelf in the
rock, which forms a sortof cavern ; here we found
acskin of extremely bad Water, suspended for
drinking, and a pallet of straw, with the pitcher,
and the' other poor utensils of the sheikh who re
sides here. He is a decrepit old man, who has
dived here during the space of forty years, <and
•occasionally endured the fatigue of descending
and reaScending the mountain. The tomb itself
is: enclosed in a small building, differing hot at
all in. external form and appearance, from those
of Mahommedan saints, common throughout every
province of Turkey. It has probably been re
built at no remote period; some small columns
are bedded in the walls, and some fragments of
granite, and slabs of white marble are lying about.
The door is near the S. W. angle, within which
a constructed tonib, with a pall thrown over it,
presents itself immediately upOn entering ; it is
patched together out of fragments Of stone and
marble that have made part of other fabrics.
Upon one of these are several short lines in the

436 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
Hebrew character, cut in a slovenly manner; we
had them interpreted at Acre, and they proved to
be merely the names of a Jew and his family who
had scratched this record,; it is not probable that
any professed Jew has visited the spot for ages
past, perhaps not since the period of the Mahom
medan conquest ; it may lay claim, therefore,
to some antiquity, and in any case is a curious
appendage to the testimony of Josephus on this
subject. There are rags and shreds of yarn,
with glass beads and paras, left as votive offerings
by^the Arabs (75). Not far from the N. W. angle
is a passage, descending by steps to a vault or
grotto beneath, for we were uncertain which of
the two to call it, being covered with so thick a
coat of whitewash, that it is difficult to distinguish
whether it is built or hollowed out. It appeared,
in great part at least, a grotto ; the roof is co
vered, but the whole is rude, ill-fashioned, and
quite dark; the sheikh, who was not informed
that we were Christians, a circumstance which
our guide was not aware of, furnished us with a
lamp of butter. Towards the farther end of this
dark vault lie the two corresponding leaves of an
iron grating, which formerly prevented all nearer
approach to the tomb of the prophet; they have,
however, been thrown down, and we advanced so

LETTER V,J THE DEAD SEA- 437
as to touch it; it was covered by a ragged pall.
We were obliged to descend bare-footed (76), and
were not without some apprehension of treading
on scorpions or other reptiles in such a place.
The view from the summit of the edifice is ex
tremely extensive in every direction, and the eye
rests upon few objects, which it can clearly dis
tinguish and giye a name to, though an excellent
idea is obtained of the general face and features
of the country. The chain of Idumean moun
tains, which form the western shore, of the Dead
Sea, seem to run on to the southward, though
losing considerably in their height; they appear
in this point of view barren and desolate. Below
them is spread out a white sandy plain, seamed
with the beds of occasional torrents, and present
ing much the same features as the most desert
parts of the Ghor. Where this desert expanse
approaches the foot of Mount Hor, there arise
out of it, like ' islands, several lower peaks and
ridges of a purple colour, probably composed of
the same kind of sand-stone as that of Mount
Hor itself, which, variegated as it is in its hues,
presents in the distance one uniform mass of dark
purple. Towards the Egyptian side there is an
expanse of country without features or limit, and
lost in the distance. The lofty district which we
had quitted in our descent to Wady Mousa, shuts

438 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
up the prospect on the S. E. side ; but there is no
part of the landscape which the eye wanders over
with more curiosity and delight than the crags
of Mount Hor itself, which stand up on every
side in the most rugged and fantastic forms ;
sometimes strangely piled one on the other, and
sometimes as strangely yawning in '<¦¦ clefts • of
a frightful depth. In the midst of this chaos
there rises into sight one finished work, distin
guished by profuseness of ornament, and richness
of detail. -It is the same which has been de
scribed as visible from other elevated points, but
which we were never able to arrive at ; it bears
N. E. half N. from this spot, but the number - and
intricacy of the vallies and ravines, which we sup
posed -might have led us to it, baffled all our
attempts. No guide was to be found. With the
assistance of the glass we made out the facade to be
larger to all appearance than that: of the temple
at the eastern approach* and nowise inferior to it
in richness and beauty. It is hewn out of the rock,
and seemed to be cOmposed; of- two tiers of co
lumns, of which the upper range is Ionic; the
centre of the monument is crowned with a vase
of a gigantic proportion; the ; whole appeared
to be in a high state of preservation; it may per
haps be an ornament to the northern approach
to the city, similarly situated to that on the

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 439
eastern side from Mount Hor. Petra is inter-'
cepted and concealed by the prominences of the
mountains. • An artist who would study rock
scenery in all its wildest and most extravagant
forms,- and in colours, which, to one who has not-
seen them, would scarcely appear to be in nature,
would find himself rewarded should he resort to
Mount Hor for that sole purpose.
We had employed just? one hour in the ascent; and
found that oUr return to the place where we had left
ourhorses occupied the same time; as the day was
closing we were reconducted by Abou Raschid near
to the palace, and from thence proceeding in a N.E.
direction, quitted the ruins. On leaving Petra the
track rises considerably, and is slippery and danger
ous ; our attention was particularly excited on this •
side, by remarking with how much care the scanty
soil had been banked up into terraces, and disposed
into- fields and gardens ; every ; nook that could
furnish footing for a single plant is turned to
account, proving that Strabo was not mistaken
in speaking of the horticultural advantages of
this city; the inhabitants seem to have made the
most of it. At present, the barren state of the
country, together with the desolate condition of
the city,; without a single human being living
near it, seem strongly to verify the judgment
denounced against it (7T). It appeared to have

440 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
been our chief's intention: to have carried us for
the night to some camp at a greater distance;
however, it so happened that we had scarcely
quitted the district of the tombs, when we passed
near a small camp, consisting of a few tents only.
Two men rushing out from them with impetuosity
seized our bridles, and carried us by main force to
lodge with them ; before we could dismount they
had contrived to loose the corn bags from behind
our saddles, and were fighting with one another,
disputing who should fill them. The contest was
so much in earnest that the most elderly of the
persons engaged was thrown down, and the
corn bags which he had secured, snatched from
him by force. It will hardly be credited that the
object of so much contention was the furnishing
necessaries from their own stock, gratis, to persons
whom they had never seen before. A sheep was
slain, and our supper was as usual : thus finished
our first day's visit to the ruins of Petra.
Little more than a general survey had .been
taken, and that imperfectly. When we proposed
returning, the principal objections that were
started, were the difficulty of finding provisions
for ourselves, and provender for our horses; this
was remedied by the purchase of a sheep on our
part, together with whatever else was necessary
for the ensuing day; it will appear strange to

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 441
those who have had no experience in Arabian
manners, that the same people who had fought
with one another a few hours before, for the pri
vilege of providing what we wanted at their
own expense, from the moment that payment
was talked of> and money shewn to them, became
greedy and imposing to the highest degree* and
resorted to every method of extoftion that they
could devise; this is, however, entirely in the
Arab character; generous and prone to hospitality
at first, and as long as there is no talk or
appearance of a recompence, but from the
moment it is discovered that any thing can be
got, they not only lose all liberality, but even
common honesty, and a scene of fraud, double-
dealing, and extortion begins; so that, in fact, a
poor man may pass better, and upon a more
friendly footing than a rich one. The result of
the second day's operations has been thrown into
the preceding description of Petra. We re
mained there till night, and took our last farewell
with reluctance, leaving unexplored, the great
temple which we had seen from Mount Hor; the
arch thrown over the chasm of the eastern en
trance; the obelisk on one of the commanding
heights; many of the ravines and valleys in the
entrances of which were tombs, and which pro
mised much if well examined ; the insulated and

442 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER,; V.
conical mount with steps; the height which we
supposed to have been the acropolis, and in
short, enough to have employed us four -days
more at least, but nothing could obtain a further
extension of the time allotted. We returned, to-
the same camp where we had passed the night
before. There were great apprehensions of robbers
who would carry off our horses in the dark. It
was stated they would probably be the Annasee
Arabs, who are continually lurking about in the
neighbourhood ; and it was reported in the morn-
hig that two fellows had been seen, who finding
that persons were on the watch, made no attempt,
to do any. mischief.
May 26. At day break we quitted the camp and ;
proceededtowards Shobek; the weather through
out the -day was excessively cold. An European.
would find -it difficult to believe, - that on
the 26th of May, in a latitude more southern
than -the- Delta of Egypt, we were suffering.
great inconvenience from cold, with the- wind
from the westward. The very elevated situation
we were, on was in some measure the cause of
this, but does not. seem quite to account for it;
the gusts were so violent, and the cold so bitter, -
that our people once alighted. in the middle- of
the way, for the purpose of kindling a fire.

LETTER V.J THfi DEAD SEA. 443
Arriving - at AboU ;Raschid's camp, no impatience
was expressed at our delay; here we were joined
by Sheikh Yousouf and Sahlem; and taking-
leave of Abou Raschid, who sent his mace-bearer
with his iron mace to ensure for us the same re
ception as if. he was himself of our . company,
(78), 'we proceeded to Shobek. We gave our
intrepid friend four hundred piastres, and Mr.
Legh presented him with a brass blunderbuss,
having a spring bayonet, with which he was much
pleased; he kissed us all at parting. > ¦
May 27. In the morning we quitted Shobek.
On our way, this day, we passed a swarm of locusts
that were resting themselves in a gully; they
Were in sufficient numbers to alter apparently the
colour of the rock on which they had alighted,
and to make a sort of cracking noise while eating,
which we heard before we reached them (Volney
compares it to the foraging of an army). Our
conductors told us. they: were on their way to
Gaza, and that they pass ; almost annually. In
the evening we arrived at Ipseyra, sometimes
called Bsaida; it is a miserable village, and the
people- a fanatical and- surly set. We here met
the man who had conducted Sheikh Ibrahim to
Wady Mousa, as old Yousouf would not attend him
farther than this place; the guide seemed to say.
that Buckhardt made a very hasty survey of the ruins.

444 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
May 28. We went to the tertfs of Sheikh
Sahlem, passing on our way the village of Tafyle,
and several others in' the district of Djebal; they
are generally in picturesque situations.
May 29- In the morning we took our leave
of Sheikh Sahlem. On our way we passed
several shepherd's boys, who were playing on
double pipes similar to some of those represented
in the tombs of Egypt. We descended into the
Wady ElAhsa, and bathed in the hot spring, which
the Arabs call the bath of Solomon the son of
David. Crossing the deep ravine and river El Ahsa,
we entered into the district of Kerek. El Ahsa is
probably the Zared of Scripture, the boundary of
the Edomites and Moabites. On our ascent from
the valley of the ElAhsa, whieh occupied two hours,
we killed, by the road side, a black scorpion, at
least four inches long. About noon we reached
a camp belonging; to the father of old Yousouf 's
bride ; he is the sheikh of a village called Khanzyre,
less than a mile from the camp. The next day
we proceeded to Kerek. As we entered You-
souf's quarters, the throats of three kids ranged
in a line Were cut before us, to celebrate our
return. The people were employed bringing in
the harvest. We found the sheikh's house very
full of Annasee Arabs, who were come with their

LETTER V.] THE DEAD SEA. 445
camels from the eastward to procure corn. They
had brought a mare as a present to old YousOuf
who had not of late been on good terms with
their tribe ; he gave, in his turn, six camel loads of
wheat and six of barley, a sword of value* and a
benish for the chief. The wife of the sheikh's
brother was dying of a fever, in a little room
which opened into the court, and was so thronged
that it was difficult to obtain a sight of the scene :
she was lying on the floor speechless, and round
her were women and girls, some squatting, and
others leaning over her, so thick together that
they could not move without treading on one
another, or on the sick person, who was hardly
visible from the numbers that surrounded her ;
the whole multitude were uttering the most
piercing and piteous cries, nearly to the same tune
as at a funeral. Old Yousouf and another male
of the family were seated in silence at the lower
end of the room towards the door. At our par
ticular request, the troop of mourners were ex
pelled, and the woman left quiet; knowing of no
other remedy, -and .hearing that she was weak
from fasting, Mahommed, the soldier, prescribed
chicken broth, upon taking which, she recovered
surprisingly. ', -i ha. ' , „
- To the S. W. of the '¦ casrtle of Kerek, about a
mile distant, is a source the name of which is a

446 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
memorial of the occupation of this country by
the crusaders ; it is called Ain-el-Ffangee,' or
the Franks' Fountain.
JUne 1 . In the forenoon we set ¦ out on a
journey for the purpose of examining the
southern extremity of the Dead Sea, under the
guidance of an old man of the family of Yousouf
Magella, who made us pay him thirty piastres,
under the pretdnce that an escort of three was
necessary, at ten piastres each. We left the town
by a more easy descent than that by which we
first arrived ; at ' the bottom r we fell in with a
small caravan of horses and mules, 'who. were
setting ; out for- Hebron and Jerusalem. We
pursued r the same . road by" which we had arrived
at Kerek from Hebron. A -spot was > pointed
out to us by Soliman as the scene, in his younger
days, of the slaughter of thirty men of Kerek,
We could not learn the story very satisfactorily,
but it seemed: to be : the result- of; a civil war
amongst them; it was not far from where we had
ourselves been accosted by the armed men, whom
we had supposed robbers, and certainly a fitter
place for an attack of thieves could not easily be
found. -¦ We had previously passed many camps;
in one of these we were desired to observe a very
large herd of cattle collected, which we were in-
formedwas a spoil just brought in from theHabu-

LETTER.V.J THE DEAD SEA. 447
ran near Djebal-el-Druze, where they had been
.robbed by ,-some men in Ismayel's employ. As
soon as, we came to the pass, which commands
an .extensive prospect of the Dead Sea, we could
observe the effect of the evaporation arising from
it, in broad transparent columns of vapour, not
unlike water-spouts in appearance, but very much
larger. We did not deviate at all from our old
route as far as the brook Dara; here the little
Hebron caravan halted to eat, and repose for a
few hours. They implored us in the most earnest
manner, as we valued their safety, not to mention
in' the huts of the Ghorney's below, that we had
seen them, as it would infallibly lead to their
"being assaulted. and robbed; adding, that so small
a company could seldom pass that way with
safety. From this point we began to take a new
course, making a pretty direct descent towards
the plain; of the Ghor. An open grove of the
acassia : and doom tree was .thinly : sprinkled on
the first portion of ' our way ; of these a great
number were apparently either dead or dying,
from what cause we did not learn, possibly their
foliage had ; been stripped byMocusts. : All this
tract might be, and probably. has been irrigated,
for it would be easy to dam up the brook," and
conduct it in almost; every direction. The form
of fields, and even the marks of furrows are to be

448 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
seen ; and some ruins like those of cottages, or of
a small hamlet. Lower down there is, very clearly,
an ancient site; stones that have been used in
building, though for the most part unhewn, are
strewed over a great surface of uneven ground,
and mixed both with bricks and pottery. This
appearance continues without interruption, dur
ing the space of at least half a mile, quite down
to the plain, so that it would seem to have been
a place of considerable extent. We noticed one
column, and we found a pretty specimen of an
tique, variegated glass ; it may possibly be the
site of the ancient Zoar. Near these remains the
Dara opens from its glen into the plain to the
northward, by a nook, where there is a wall of
rude brick, with an arched door-way, which, as it
seemed not to promise much, we did hot examine.
The brook so far fertilizes this part of the plain,
that it is scattered over with thickets of the
acassia and doom plant; we observed another
shrub also, the branches of which have an in
clination downwards, and are of a dull green
with little or no foliage ; it bears a fruit about the
size of an almond in its green husk, and not very
dissimilar in colour, but having several seams or
ribs like those on the fruit of the green pippin*
When it ripens, the skin retains its roughness
without, but becomes soft and juicy like a green

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 449
gage, and has a sort of sweetness mixed with a
strong bitter ; by culture it might perhaps be
improved to a pleasant fruit ; some said it was
eatable, but others asserted that it was poison
ous, and that children were frequently disordered,
or even died after eating it; there is a stone within
it, and the smell is sickly and- disagreeable. The
hare and the partridge of the desert abound
throughout this thicket, portions of which are
cleared and cultivated. In the very heart of it,
not visible in any direction beyond a few yards,
unless by the smoke issuing from it, is the village
of the Ghorney's, who are by profession Mahom-
medans, but are looked on by the faithful as little
better than absolute infidels, as they seldom, if
ever, exercise the forms of their religion. They
hire themselves out as herdsmen and shepherds,'
and are notorious robbers. Their abode has
more the appearance of a village in India or the
South Seas, than of any we have seen in the
east. The weather being now excessively hot,
the people were nearly naked ; the children quite
so : we were well received and few questions
asked of us, but our guide shewed great mistrust
of our hosts, laying all our goods together . close
to our heads, where we lay down to sleep.
June 2. On the first dawn we left our guide,
who wished to purchase tobacco to take to Kerek,
G G

450 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
and turning rather to the eastward of north,
made our way through the thicket towards the
sea beach. We were here surprised to see, for
the first time, the oskar plant grown to the
stature of a tree, its trunk measuring, in many
instances, two feet or more in circumference, and
the boughs at least fifteen feet in height, a size
which far exceeded any we saw in Nubia; the fruit
also was larger and in greater quantity. There
is very little doubt of this being the fruit of the
Dead Sea so often noticed by the ancients as
appearing juicy and delicious to the eye, while
within it is hollow, or filled with something grat
ing and disagreeable in the mouth. The natives
makes use of the filaments, which are enclosed in
the fruit, and which somewhat resemble the down
of a thistle, as a stuffing for their cushions; and
they likewise twist them, like thin rope, into
matches for their guns, which they assured us
required no application of sulphur to render them
combustible... ..Nearer the sea, the vegetation con
sists principally of the tamarisk and cane, so high
and so thickly set, as to render many parts
wholly impassable. The rotten and marshy
ground, formed probably by the stagnation of
deposited water, during the winter season especi
ally, renders the passage very difficult. The
foliage has a salt dew hanging upon it, which

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 45 T
gives to the hand the same greasy sensation and
appearance that is acquired by dipping it in the
sea itself. We saw frequent tracks of the wild
boar. A narrow, pebbly beach, separates the jungle
from the sea; it is very hard and firm to the
tread, and continues the same along the water's
edge, which here turns westward, and forms a
bay; as the land lies lower here than in other
place, the water encroaches more or less on the
shore .according to the season; the highest point
which it ever reaches being marked by an exten
sive deposit of timber of all sizes. It dries off
into shallows and small pools, which in the end
deposit a salt as fine and as well bleached, in some
instances, as that in regular salt pans. The western
horn of this bay is formed by a sharp promontory,
projecting.. forward into the sea, in a direction
nearly from south to north; that is to say, such
is the relative bearing of the extremities, for
between them there is a considerable concavity
in the line of shore where the salt-water stag
nates and evaporates. We found several persons
peeling off a solid surface of salt, several inches
in thickness; they were collecting it and loading
it on asses. Towards the same part the ground
is treacherous and deep, and only glazed over
with a thin crust, not unlike the sediment of mud

452 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
which the Nile in some parts leaves on its shores.
The promontory is not entirely of high land,
this being confined to a steep, white ridge run
ning like a spine down the centre; this ridge
presents steep, sloping sides, seamed and furrowed
into deep hollows by the rains*- and terminating
at the summit in sharp, triangular points, standing
up like rows of tents ranged one above another;
the whole is of a substance apparently partaking
of the mixture of soft and broken chalk and
slate, and is wholly unproductive of vegetation.
The height of the eminence varies from ten to
about thirty feet, becoming gradually lower
towards its northern extremity. At its foot, all
round, is a considerable margin of sand, which
varies in length and breath according to the sea
son, being much narrower in summer than it is
in winter, when we have reason to suppose, that
in rough weather, at least, the waves almost wash
the base of the cliff. At the northernmost point
of the cape some rotten branches are standing
up, so encrusted with salt deposited upon them
by the spray, or the evaporation, that they have
the appearance of straight branches of fine white
coral. The total length of this promontory or
horn of the bay may be about four miles, comput
ed from the observation, that we employed an hour
and twelve minutes in riding along it at a walk-

LETTER V.J THE DEAD 'SEA. 453
ing pace. Following the line of coast round the an
gle, the same cliff presents an opposite face of simi
lar appearance and equal height, running two miles
or forty minutes in a S. W- by S. direction. Here
we first collected lumps of nitre and fine sulphur,
from the size of a nutmeg up to that of a small
hen's egg; it was evident from their situation that
they must have been brought down by the rain, and
that their great deposit must be sought for in the
cliff (7Q). It is probable that persons come to col
lect these substances ; at least it was the only mode
that occurred to us of accounting for the prints
of human footsteps which we saw here, and those
of asses somewhat farther on; as this place can
not fall into any ordinary line of communication.
The direction of the cliff is between S. W. and
S.; we quitted its foot, where the sand is in
some places deep and distressing to the horse,
and followed the edge of the beach, which di
verges from the cliff to the S. W.; as the
water subsides, which being always shallow to
wards the strait, retires rapidly in this part, a very
Considerable level is left, which is encrusted with
a salt that is but half dried and consolidated,
appearing like ice in the commencement of a
thaw. All this space is soft, and gives way
nearly as deep as the ancle, when it is trod on.
We reached the narrowest part of the channel of

454 TRAVELS ROUND [lETTTR V.
communication between the sea and the back
water (which we have called the strait) in just
two hoUrs, from the foot of the cliff, our direction
having been about S. W. The strait is formed
by a low promontory projecting from the oppo
site or western shore; and, fortunately, just as
we arrived at the narrowest part, where the
ford is indicated by boughs of trees, we observed
the small caravan from Kerek landed on the
opposite side ; and as we could discern the
species of animal, as well as the people on
their backs, we were all agreed in estimating
the distance about a mile. As there were asses of
the p^arty, the depth cannot be great. We searched
for the shells mentioned by Seetzen, as proving
that there are living creatures in the lake,
but found none excepting snail shells, and a
small spiral species, invariably without any fish,
or the appearance of having had any for a long
time. Dead locusts were found in very great
numbers; they had not become putrid, nor had
they any smell, as when cast up by any other sea
(vide Volney) ; they were completely penetrated
and incrusted with salt, and had lost their co
lour. The sight of such a multitude of carcasses
of creatures Who had perished in passing over
these waters, might seem to lend some counte
nance to the tale of the ancients, "that no living

A. Tlttcc. where we slept on. the Cliffs
B. The J°lace at the Tord, where Ot£ Tarty
that, had crossed were discovered,
C. The. ToroZ indirated, by Stakes.

^Smm%0.

Drawn by TheMbnJ'r CZJrby '.

Jfngraved by MdTemvood,.

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 455
thing could attempt the passage over it with im
punity ;" were it not a spectacle sufficiently com
mon upon other shores, as Sicily, attd about el-
Arish; and we had another, still better proof to
the contrary, first, in a pair of Egyptian geese,
and afterwards in a flight of pigeons which
passed over the sea. Leaving the narrowest
part of the strait, we followed it to its southern
extremity, where it opens into the back-water, and
also the shore of the back-water itself to some
distance. The high water mark was at this
season a mile distant from the water's edge. We
were told that this back-water is never dry, and
that the ford is not at any season impassable.
It is remarkable how few living things, as birds,
or insects, or reptiles, are to be seen on this lake ;
the want of vegetable matter and fresh water is
probably the reason. Having returned from the
edge of the back-water, we ascended the cliff,
which is steep but practicable; and then we
gained a great table-land on its top, where we
fell in with the track of those who had passed
from Kerek to the ford. In two hours we reached
the banks of the Dara, where we found our
guide. In the evening, we arrived late at some
tents, where Sheikh Yousouf was encamped ; we
found here a man from Szalt, and two men froni
Herak in the Haouran, near the Druze country,

456 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
who had come to reclaim the cattle robbed from
them by Ismayel's people^), according to what
we had heard before. In the morning we removed
to Ismayel's tents, when the cause of the
stranger was pleaded, but it was before a most
partial and interested tribunal, for Yousouf was
the accused as well as the judge and arbitrator. He
decided accordingly ; offering at the utmost to
restore half the number that had been stolen.
He accused them of having been in some shape
the aggressors, but explained himself so little,
that we did not learn what provocation he al
luded to, it was surprising to find that two places
lying so very wide of each other, should have any
disputes to settle; there was much arguing and pre
varication. Towards noon we returned to Kerek.
June 5. In the afternoon we proceeded on our
journey to the northward, accompanied by
Sheikhs Yousouf and Ismayel, Dawood, his ne
phew, and the two men of Herak, together
with the man from Szalt. We passed over
a fine country, flat, and higher than Kerek,
keeping in a N. N. E. direction ; the corn was
luxuriant in all directions, and the reapers
were working. Several sites which we passed,
proved that the population of this country was
formerly proportioned to its natural fertility.
In about two hours we reached Rabba, for-

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA- 457
merly Rabbath-Moab, afterwards Areopolis ; the
ruins are situated on an eminence, and present
nothing of interest, except two old ruined Roman
temples, and some tanks. The whole circuit of
the town does not seem to have exceeded a mile,
which is a small extent for a city that was the
capital of Moab, and which bore such a sounding
Greek name. We were yet more surprised not to
find any traces of walls about it. We passed the
night at a small camp near the ruins ; it is the
only Christian camp we have ever been in ; they
told us there were altogether five encampments
of Christians. They were poor people, but con
nected with families in Kerek ; occasionally they
take their turn in the town, and send others to
take theirs in the camp. A deep gully behind
their tents led to the Dead Sea. This evening,
about sun-set, we were deceived by a dark shade
on the sea, which assumed so exactly the ap
pearance of an island, that we did not doubt of
it, even after looking through a telescope. It is
not the only time that such a phaenomenon has
presented itself to us; in two instances, looking
up the sea from its southern extremity, we saw
it apparently closed by a low, dark line, like a bar
of sand to the northward ; and on another oc
casion two small islands seemed to present them
selves between a long sharp promontory and

458 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
the western shore. We were unable to account
for these appearances, but felt little doubt that
they are the same that deceived Mr. Seetzen into
the supposition that he had discovered an island
of some extent, which we have had opportunity
of ascertaining, beyond all doubt, does not exist.
It is not absolutely impossible, however, that he
may have seen one of those temporary islands of
bitumen which Pliny describes as being of several
acres in extent, and from which he adds, that the
Egyptians drew their store of resinous matter for
embalming their mummies.
June 6. This morning we visited the ruins of
Beit-Kerm, distant from Rubba about one mile
and a half to the north. The principal feature of
them is a great building, evidently Roman, resem
bling that Which we took to have been a palace at
Petra; perhaps this is the temple of Atargatis,
at Carnaim, as it is called1 in 1 Maccabees, v. 43.
or Camion, b. 2. xii. 26. A great number of tanks
prove that this was once a populous place (81).
There were four camps near the ruins ; we lodged
in one; the men of Herak renewed their discus
sions and remonstrances with Yousouf, for having
returned to them but forty head of their cattle.
These were driven along the same road by which
we travelled, and the drivers generally halted
when we did. Two hours and a half north from

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 459
Beit-Kerm there is a slight eminence, which
forms a conspicuous object from all thecouhtry
round, and is called " Sheikh Harn."
June 7- During this day we visited several
elevated heights, each commanding very fine
views of the Dead Sea, which both comprehended
the back-water at one end, and the Plains of ,
Jericho at the other. Jerusalem and the Frank
Mount were also discernible, and from the dif
ferent bearings which we made, we ascertained
for a certainty that the length of the lake, As-
phaltis, including the back-water, does not exceed
thirty miles at the utmost, though the ancients
have assigned to it a length of from Seventy-five
to eighty miles. From the first height the bear
ings were as follows ; Jerusalem, N. W. f N. ;
Frank Mount, N. W. f W. ; Jericho, N. by W. ;
east end of the back-water, S. W. by S. From
. the second height, Sheikh Harn, E. \ S. ; the first-
mentioned hill, N. N. E. 1 E.; the Strait leading
to the back-water, W. S. W. f W. ; the village of
the Ghorney's, S. W. by W. J W. ; the hollow
of the bay W. S. W. J W. ; Jericho, N.f- W. ; the
extremity of the back-water, S. W. I S. Jeru
salem and the Frank Mount were not visible, it
being very late in the day.
On reaching the tents we found the men of
Herak out of all patience at Yousouf's injustice

460 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
in making so little retribution ; they called us
aside to assure us that he was no better than a
robber, and hoped that we would publish and
confirm their complaints at Damascus. "We
will drag him by the beard," said they " to
Mezeereeb." But it would be no easy task to
force the lord of Kerek out of his district.
June 8. We proceeded to the northward, and
in about two hours arrived upon the brink of the
Wady Modjeb the ancient Arnon ; on looking
down, it has more the appearance of a precipice
than a road, and although the Roman way
coincides with the modern track very near to the
brink, and again about half way down it, it
must have been in a very different state, at least
from that by which we descended, and which is
not only extremely steep, but so interrupted with
rocks and stones, that we were obliged to dismount
and lead our horses full halfway down the descent.
In this rocky space there is only here and there a
straggling turpentine tree ; about half way the
declivity is more earthy and shelving; here
abouts we recovered the Roman highway. It is
not here as above, completely paved, but at
regular intervals a line of stones is carried
across the road in the manner Of a step, to
prevent the. washing away of the earth from
above, and to serve as a resting place in the

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 46 1
descent. On the right hand of the road, a
shallow tank of considerable size, walled round
with thick and good masonry, is placed on the
side of the hill ; and below it, at only a few yards
distance, are the remains of a large square build
ing which we took to be a Roman military
station ; there was another above on the brink of
the precipice. We found several mile-stones ; all
those which were legible, were of the time of
Trajan. The valley of the Arnon is less shrubby
than that of most other streams in this country,
which is probably ascribable to the violence and
frequency of its torrents. There are, however, a
few tamarisks, and here and there an oleander
growing about it ; it is not more than three paces
wide where the Roman road comes down upon
the stream, and there remains a high single arch,
measuring twenty-eight feet nine inches in per
pendicular height, and thirty-one feet six inches
in space ; the remnants of the other arches of the
"bridge have all disappeared. The descent occu
pied one hour and a half. In our ascent up the
opposite side, we followed mostly the ancient
road, and found some more Roman mile-stones ;
one of Marcus Aurelius. We found the road on
this side as steep as it was on the other, and it
was remarkable in this pass, that from either side
looking to the other, there appeared no possible

462 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
mode of ascent. We had now passed from the
land of the Moabites into that of the Amorites.
It is observable that as far as the eye could
follow the course of the stream from the heights,
the valley is neither of a size or nature that could
ever have admitted of cultivation, or have given
room for the plating of any village or city on its
banks, which makes it probable that those places,
which were supposed to stand upon the river,
were in reality only in the adjacent district.
We found the territory of the Amorites a plane
down, of a smoother and evener turf than that of
Moab, and with much fewer stones scattered over
it. We soon recovered the ancient road, and in
forty-five minutes reached Diban, the Dibon of
Scripture, Numb. xxi. 30. and Jeremiah, xlviii. 18.
The extent of these remains is considerable, but
not so large as Rabba. The ruins present no
thing of interest. In the afternoon we arrived at
a camp in the Wady Wale, pitched on the banks
of the river, which this year seems to have swollen
to a prodigious degree ; the oleanders are here
more numerous than we have ever seen them ;
some which is very rare bore a white flower,
the rushing of the waters had rooted many of
them up, and the whole were thrown aslant by
the course of the torrent, the marks of which were
seen upon them to the height of fifteen feet. On

LETTER V.] THE DEAD SEA. 463
the left bank stands a stone about ten feet high
four feet wide at the base in its broadest part,
and not more than one foot at the narrowest ; it
has been set up an end by art, being placed contrary
to the natural direction of the strata, and at right
angles to the stream very near the bank. We
supposed it to be one of those ancient bound
stones of which we read so frequently in Scrip
ture. Across the stream, but at a greater dis
tance from its channel, is another similar stone,
bearing obliquely on the path, its broadside
parallel to the stream. There are no signs, of
sculpture on them, nor is there any appearance of
their having ever been wrought, with the tool (82).
There is in this same valley another rude work,
that may be referred to a remote , period ; it is
higher up by perhaps a quarter of a mile than
the two bound stones. A knoll, of very moderate
height, rises detached near the centre of the valley,
upOn the right bank of the rivulet. On its sum
mit are the remains of a very large quadrangular
platform, constructed of rude stones laid together
without cement. It is possible that this may be
one of the " altars of the high places." It is still
a place in some measure consecrated ; there is a
tomb at the top with paltry Bedouin votive offer
ings hanging about it. About a mile lower down
the valley, are the remains of a Roman bridge of

464 TRAVLS ROUND [LETTER V.
five arches ; all are fallen, and nothing but the
foundation of the piers is left. Near this bridge
are other ruins. These were the first objects in our
days' journey, on the ninth. From hence we passed
upwards out of the valley ; near the ancient paved
road there were several mile-stones, one of
which was of Severus. We passed, at the foot of
Djebal Attarous, which probably may be Nebo,
although it is far from opposite Jericho. We now
entered a fertile plain of corn, and stopped at a
camp near the ruins of Mayn, which both the
name and the neighbouring hot-waters seem to
identify with the Baal Meon of Scripture ; it stands
on a considerable eminence. In the afternoon,
we went to a height which commands a fine
view of the Dead Sea, and is very near on a
parallel with its northern extremity. Here we
took the following bearings ; Jericho, N. W. I N.
Mouth of the Jordan, N. W. § N. ; Rama of
Samuel, N. W. by W. ; Djebal Attarous, S. W. ;
Frank Mountain, W. N. W. I W.; Sheikh
Harn, S. J W. Below us was a ruin of a
square form which we could not get at ; from
its position we thought it might possibly be He-
rodium. At sun-set we returned to the camp
near Mayn, from whence there are a great num
ber of ruined sites visible, and amongst the
the rest Heshbon, bearing N. E. I N.

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 465
We engaged a guide from our tents,, who un
dertook to carry us to the sources of hot-water ;
our route was S. W. ; in less than half an hour
we reached another tall stone, set up apparently
as a boundary mark, like those in the Wady-el-
Wale. The direct track is continued from this
first, round the southern side of a rocky knoll ris
ing to some height, and in a great measure de
tached from the surrounding hills. Some. remark
able objects, of which we got a glimpse, induced us
to pass round on the other side of this knoll ; they
are rude sepulchral monuments of the same na
ture with those we discovered on our road from
Szalt to the Jordan on our last tour ; yet, as the
former are rude throughout, without any mark
whatever of the tool about them, whereas the
others have universally a door in one of the smal
ler ends, it is possible that they may date from a
remoter period, or have belonged to a still ruder
people. Their proportions vary considerably, as
does their aspect, though the construction is uni
form ; one flat stone is laid in at the bottom, and
this there can be little doubt covers the grave of
the deceased ; and, as there is no appearance of
the tombs ever having been violated, it probably
protects them to this day. They would be a
highly interesting object for excavation, as it
might possibly lead to the ascertaining of the
H H

466 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER. V.
form of some of the weapons and warlike apparel
mentioned in Scripture. It is worth noticing, that
however remote may be the period to which these
sepulchres are to be referred, the stature of those
contained in them, is so far from gigantic, that it
seems to. have amounted to no more than the
middle size of modern times.
Not only this rocky eminence, upon which we
first observed them, is covered over on all sides
with these barbarous structures, but some few
are scattered in the fields upon a lower level, and
a great many upon the sides of the surrounding
hills, insomuch that not less than fifty were in
sight at one time. We were puzzled to think to
what city this necropolis belonged ; Mayn being
more than a mile off, in a straight line, would seem
too distant. Some which we had passed on our
left hand the afternoon before, called Dher, were
now visible, upon an eminence at no great dis
tance to the north. Passing on, we found our
selves in an ancient highway, not paved, but edged
with stones, and possibly prior to Roman times.
Arriving at the brink of a deep descent, towards
the Zerka Mayn, we found the track steep, wind
ing, and long. In about two hours from Mayn
we reached the bed of the Torrent Zerka Mayn,
which we crossed, and kept along it in a western
direction. We saw ten animals which the Arabs

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 467
call Meddn or Beddn ; they are of the goat species,
as large as asses* with long knotty horns which
stand -upright ; some had beards ; in colour they
resembled the gazelle. In four hours from Mayn
we had reached the place where it was necessary
to. dismount, the appearance beyond being that of
a precipice. Through this, a narrow path has:
been contrived in a zig-zag direction, which makes
the descent tolerably safe. In the last stage of
the path there is a fine burst of the Dead Sea at
the end of the ravine, with a view of the Frank
Mount, and Bethlehem open beyond it ; the for
mer bearing N. N. W. Looking down into the
valley of Calirrhoe, it presents some grand and
romantic features. The rocks vary between red,
grey, and black, and have a bold and imposing
appearance. The whole bottom is filled* and in
a manner choked with a crowded thidket of canes
and aspines of different species, intermixed with
the palm, which is also seen rising in tufts in the
recesses of the mountain's side, and in every place
whence the springs issue. In one place a con
siderable stream of hot-water is seen precipitating
itself from a high and perpendicular shelf of rock,
which is strongly tinted with the brilliant yellow
of sulphur deposited upon it. On reaching the
bottom we found ourselves at what may be
termed a hot river, so copious and rapid is it,

468 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
and its heat so little abated; this continues as it
passes downwards by its receiving constant sup
plies of water of the same temperature. In
order to visit these sources in succession, we
crossed over to the right bank, and ascending by
the mountain side, we passed four abundant
springs, all within the distance of half a mile,
discharging themselves into the stream at
right angles with its course. We judged the
distance from the Dead Sea, by the ravine,
to be about one hour and a half. Macbean
says, that there was a cognominal city at Ca-
lirrhoe ; in which we think, from the very na
ture of the place, he must be wrong, since
there is not space or footing for a town in the
valley as far as we saw it. That Herod must
have had some lodging when he visited these
springs is true, and there are sufficient remains to
prove that some sort of buildings have been
erected. The whole surface of the shelf, where
the springs are, is strewed over with tiles and
broken pottery ; and what is most surprising,
within very few minutes, without any particular
search, four ancient copper medals were found;
all were too much defaced to be distinguishable,
but they appeared to be Roman. Our Arab
guide here took a vapour bath according to
the practice of the country ; a bed of twigs and

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 469
broom was laid across a crevice, whence one of
the springs issued at the height of a foot or two
from the water; on this he laid himself, wrapped
in his Abba, and only remained a few minutes ;
the effect of the steam upon him was soon very
evident.. We observed another of these sweating
beds a little further down. We had no thermo-
meter, but the degree of heat in the water seemed
very great; near the source it scalds the hand»
which cannot be kept in for the space of half a
minute. The deposit of sulphur is very great,
but the water is tasteless to the palate. A very
singular plant grows near the hot sources, of the
bulk and stature of a tree; its foliage does not
seem to differ from that of the common broom.
It bears a pod hanging down from it, about a
foot or fourteen inches in length, fluted with
convex ribs from the end to the point ; we never
met with this before. After bathing, we returned
by the same road, and passing our old camp a*
Mayn, proceeded to the great encampment of the
Benesuckhers near Madeba. We arrived at
night-fall ; there were more than two hundred
tents scattered over a great extent of ground;
we » alighted at that of the chief " Ebn Fayes,"
which was at least one hundred feet long. The
chief, and his brother, the same who was with us
on our former Djerash expedition, and from

470 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
whom we escaped to Szalt, received us outside their
tent (83). They were dressed in handsome silk
caftans from Damascus. Sheikh Yousouf had
previously been invested with an ermine pe
lisse ("*), and made an odd figure, having his
red tanned sheep-skin underneath it. The three
close sides of the tent were allotted to the visitors,
the two chiefs sitting on the open side scarcely
within the cover of the tent. The elder brother,
who has a hair lip, called for his one-stringed
fiddle and played to us, singing at the same time.
On our enquiring the purport of his song, he said
it was the " death of his father," who we learned
had been killed in battle ; the notes, though but
little varied, were plaintive and harmonious (85).
There was within the tent a messenger from
Damascus, whom we had once seen at Kerek;
he had arrived in the course of the afternoon to
summon or invite Ebn Fayes to go to Damascus
to the pashaw. It was supposed his object was
either to make some arrangement with the Bene
suckhers for the safe conduct of the hadj to
Mekka, as the Annasees under Sheikh Narsah were
in rebellion; or to endeavour to reconcile the
division which had taken place between the
Benesuckhers, that they might be a check against
the Annasees. To the accidental presence of this
man, the reception we met with was probably

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 47 1
owing ; and We were lucky in the absence of
Abdel Khader, the prime minister, our former
enemy. The wooden dish in which our supper
was served, was of a size to require four iron
handles, and was brought in by three persons.
June 1 1 . This morning, we were told that
Ebn Fayes was already on his way to Damascus.
His brother remained with us. We requested of
him a guide for Oom-i-Rasass, which after some
hesitation and talk of danger and enemies, was
promised, and an agreement in money made ; we
were to pass by Madeba as we advanced. After
breakfast we proceeded. At Madeba, the only
object of interest was an immense tank (86). At
three we reached Oom-iJFtasass (Mother of Stones),
We found the ruins very extensive, and evidently
Christian; there were the remains of a stone wall
which enclosed the whole city; the cross is often
to be met with, but there is no architectural
remnant worthy of notice. Mr. Bankes, with his
janissary, took a second tour in search of inscrip
tions* while we remained under the wall. While
walking about the ruins, an armed Bedouin made
his appearance and robbed him of his abba. Ex
cepting in our journey to Palmyra, we here saw
more camels than we had ever before met with.
June 12. We reached Heshbon in the evening,
Where We found Sheikh Yousouf, the man of Szalt,
and the young prince of the Benesuckhers ;," our
first object was to see the ruins, and to inspect the

472 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
celebrated pools; but just at starting we received
a message from Ebn Fayes, to demand payment
for permission to proceed; we sent word in reply,
that we had already paid him on a former oc
casion; in answer, we received a message to this
effect, tell them, said the young man, " that the
first that moves from the tent receives this hall
(presenting a pistol) through his body." The
firman was now mentioned; he said he cared
nothing for firmans; that he considered them only
fit for those who were weak enough to obey them;
that he was Grand Seignior, and every thing else
here, and that we must pay. While thus de
tained, a man brought some wheat to parch C7),
and to our surprise .we observed the ears of an
unusual size, one of them exceeding in dimensions
two of the ordinary sort, and on one stalk (88). Mr.
Legh procured some, which he brought to Eng
land; it has succeeded very well; we have since
learnt that it is not wholly unknown to botanists ;
it is a bearded wheat. The annexed drawing is
from nature, though to prevent delay in'printing
this book, the plant was unavoidably gathered too
early (July 20) to convey a correct idea of its size
when at maturity. After some delay, Ebn Fayes
seeing we were not inclined to give in, sent word
that we might proceed. We found the ruins un
interesting, and the only pool we saw, was too
insignificant for one of those mentioned in Scrip
ture. In two of the cisterns amongst the ruins

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LETTER V.j THE DEAD SEA.' 473
we found about three dozen of human sculls and
bones <•).
June 13. We left Heshbon, passing by a
stream which, if followed, would probably have
led to the pools. We then proceeded along the
road to Szalt, and in about four hours ar
rived at a place called by the natives Arrag-
el-Emir. Here are the ruins of an edifice
.constructed of very large stones, some of which
are twenty feet long, and so broad that one
stone constitutes the thickness of the wall. . The
ruin is situated upon a square platform or terrace,
of some extent* with.|# stream below. From the si
tuation, and from the circumstance of large beasts,
h# -relievo, being sculptured about it, Mr. Bankes
believed it to be the palace of Hircan, who, accord^ <
ing to Josephus, being driven across the Jordan by
his brother Alexander, king of Jerusalem, had built
a palace in this neighbourhood, surrounded by
hanging gardens, traces of which are yet visible.
There are many artificial caVes in a large range
of perpendicular cliff near it; some of these are
in the form of regular stables, in which feeding-
troughs still remain, sufficient for thirty or forty
horses, with holes in the live rock for the head
fastenings. Some of the caves are chambers and
small sleeping apartments, probably for servants
and attendants. There are two rows of these cham
bers ; the upper one has a sort of projecting bal-

474 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
cony across the front of the chambers. There
is one large hall finely proportioned, with some
Hebrew characters inscribed over the door-way;
the whole is approached by a sort of causeway.
We spent the whole remaining part of the day
here, and slept at an adjoining camp. On the
hill, immediately above the palace, are the remains
of a small temple much in ruins.
June 14. We advanced to Szalt, passing
through a richly wooded and picturesque coun
try; we arrived early in the afternoon, and
lodged in the castle. We remained at Szalt
until the 16th, when we pioceeded three hours
in the direction of Amman. Near this place we
passed the night in a camp belonging to the
party of the Benesuckhers hostile to Ebn Fayes,
and We employed the chief part of the next day
in examining the ruins of Rabbath Ammon, after
wards Philadelphia, and now Amman. They
stand in a long valley, a stream running through
them, which has been arched over. The ruins
are extensive, but there remains nothing of much
interest excepting the theatre, which is very large
and perfect, and a small odeum close to it. There
are the vestiges also of many other Roman edi
fices, as well as of Christian churches. We did
not find any inscriptions.
June 17- We passed the night at an Arab
camp, about three miles distant on the road to

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 475
Djerash. Here old Yousouf was again accused
of having stolen cattle from the people ; it was
said to have happened four years ago. After
much dispute he ended the argument by saying
that " he was one of those people who never re
turned any thing after it was once in his power."
June 18. At dawn of day we advanced. In
about two hours Yousouf took leave of us to re
turn to Kerek. He had made strong demands
for money, both for himself and his nephew
Daoud, though at Szalt we had made him a
present of two hundred piastres over and above
his agreement. He also tried to make- us give an
exorbitant sum to our guide for Djerash, but
failed. Notwithstanding all this it must be ad
mitted that he strictly and honestly adhered to
his contract with us ; and it is doubtful whether
we should ever have succeeded in reaching Wady
Mousa in safety, if it had not been for him. His
only dishonesty towards us was borrowing money
from Mr. Bankes, and refusing to repay it; but
where all are rogues, and cheating and imposition
are reckoned honourable and fair, and do not at
all hurt the character of a man amongst his com
panions, one must not expect too much.
We crossed the Zerka, the Jabbok of Scripture
(*), the northern boundary of the Amorites about
noon, and at two in the afternoon reached

476 TRAVEliS ROUND [LETTER V,
Djerash. We employed this and part of the
next day in making those measurements of the
public edifices which we had left unfinished be
fore; most of them were Christian churches-
Among many new inscriptions which we found,
was one recording the dedication of one of the
churches to a Christian saint. Macbean, in
quoting Eusebius, says, "that the Christians,
just before the siege of Jerusalem by Titus, were
divinely admonished to fly to Pella;" and
Strabo notices, " that it abounded in water ;''
from Ptolemy he adds, " that Pella was si
tuated thirty-five miles to the N. E. of Gerasa."
Macbean also quotes from Ptolemy and Josephus,
" that Gerasse was at the east side of the sea of
Tiberias;" these authorities seem to shew that
the ruins at Djerash are those of Pella rather
than Gerasa. In short, nothing but the similarity
of names would lead one to suppose that they
are Gerasa.
June 19. Intending to proceed to the valley
of the Jordan, by the way of a place called
Rajib, where we expected to find the ruins of
Ragaba, we quitted Djerash in the afternoon, and
passed through Katty, and another village where
there are some Roman remains in the mosque,
about half an hour beyond it. We entered a very
picturesque country, most beautifully varied with

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 477
hanging woods, mostly of the Vallonia oak,
laurestinus, cedar, common arbutus, arbutus
Andrachne, &c. the latter in some instances was
nearly six feet in cicumference ; at times the grounds
had all the appearance of a noble park; in short,
nothing could exceed the beauty of this day's
ride ; there were some few spots cultivated with
corn. As we advanced the wood became more
thick; and at dark we stopped at a small open
space covered with high grass and weeds. We
went with our guide to a small distance to en
deavour to shoot some wild boars; we hid our
selves close to the water, where all the trees were
marked with mud left by the hogs in rubbing
themselves. We heard them plainly advancing,
but one of the horses unluckily making a noise,
they all ran off. These animals we were told are
very numerous here. We returned to our bi-
vouack. Our guide refused to go for water,
fearing the' serpents in the high grass. Mr. Legh,
in the night, feeling something move underneath
him, rose to see what it was, and found an adder
coming up to him from under the edge of his
blanket, attracted uo doubt by the warmth of
his body, as the night air was very cold; having
a knife by him he cut the reptile in halves. In
the morning we found another close to our sleep
ing place.

478 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
June 20. We started at dawn, and descending
still through a thick wood, arrived at ten, at the
village of Rajib,' which contains no ruins what
ever; though we had previously passed in the
wood a Roman architrave* in a small open, space,
where our guide told us there had once been a
village; no other vestiges of which remain.
Rajib is situated a little without, and below the
woodlands. At noon we began a rapid descent
towards the valley of the Jordan, and reached it
in two hours. We saw nine wild pigs in our
way; they were all in one herd; four ; hours
more, in a northerly direction, broughtus to the
Bysan ford, and we arrived at that town after
dark. . June 21. We went to Tiberias, and the 23rd
visited Mount Tabor on our way to Nazareth.
Maundrell over-rates the view from this eminence;
we saw nothing striking except the beautiful
plain of Esdredon. In a cave, amongst the ruins
of the town, on the top of Tabor, we noticed
many travellers' names; and amongst others, that
of Mr. Wright; who visited this place when first
lieutenant of the Tigre with Sir Sydney Smith,
and who afterwards died in the Temple at Paris ;
Sheikh Ibrahim's name was also there. For Naza
reth and its neighbourhood we refer you to
Maundrell.

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 479
June 25. Went to Acre. During our stay
at Acre we witnessed an instance of unfeel
ing barbarity. On going to breakfast at the con
sul's, his Greek servant, who had been very ill for
some days before, was lying outside the door, and
actually expired on the floor before us as we
entered the room, unattended by either medical or
any other assistance. The'corpse lay neglectedfor
some time, before any one could be found to take it
away, all refusing to touch it lest they should be
at the trouble and expense of burying it. At
last the Turkish authorities interfered and the
body was removed. As we have now been
more amongst the Arabs, and have had better
opportunities of studying their manners and
habits than on our former short journey ta
Palmyra, some farther observations upon therii
become necessary. The love of liberty created
in the wandering Bedouin, by his erratic habits,
is instinctively cherished by., him from his very
infancy ; impatient of every species of controul,
and proud of his indepedeUce, he disowns and
scorns the cultivating Arab. We found these
people still deserving of their character for hos
pitality; but we never heard of the celebrated
story of bread and salt, mentioned by Volney ; if
the mere eating of bread and salt with an Arab was
a security from imposition, Sheikh Sahlem, when
threatening us, would have said, "had you not ate

480 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
bread arid salt with me,&c." instead of "had you not
Shiekh Yousouf with you ;" for we had feasted
with Sahlem in his own tent, before we had
the difference with him. Mr. Bankes was im
prisoned, and Sir William Chatterton robbed of
his breeches at Palmyra, after eating bread
and salt, and we had feasted with Ebn Fayes at
Heshbon, before his ill treatment of us. It would
certainly be a most noble commendation to ad-
Vance in their favour were it true. There is a
great deal of good breeding amongst them, a
sheikh arriving at another's tent, seats himself
opposite his friend to avoid all appearance of pre
eminence, so that either side of the tent is oc
cupied, while the end, the " post of honour," re
mains vacant. When Mr. Bankes presented the
Sheikh of Souf with a dress, he immediately sent
it into the harem, without looking at it in the
presence of the donor ; and the people of Kerek,
on our arrival, although our appearance must
have been so novel to them, abstained from asking
any questions. But although civil, they had a
great contempt for us, and observing how auk-
wardly we ate with our hands, for we never, dur
ing the whole tour, saw a spoon, or knife, or
fork, they remarked amongst themselves, " Poor
fellows ! they don't even know how to eat ; they eat
like camels." If an Arab chief gives you coffee first
he takes none after, not choosing to drink after

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 481
a Christian. Thieving, pilfering, low cunning,
lying, and cheating, are not considered as dis
honourable acts amongst them ; we were all of us
robbed of some of our effects. On one occasion,
Mr. Bankes's drawing of the grand temple at
Petra was putloined, and after some days' ne
gotiation; he was allowed to purchase it back
again, they' having confessed all the time that
they had it. Mr. Legh's Bible was also pilfered
in the same manner, and never recovered. Mr.
Bankes's two paint boxes were also stolen, and
many other articles were lost. Our diet, while
we were with them, varied according to the
wealth or poverty of the tribe ; sometimes we had
pillaw of rice, or of wheat mixed with leban
(soUr milk), sometimes mutton boiled the moment
the animal is skinned (9a), and generally in leban,
a custom alludedto in Scripture (9S). This mode
of cooking renders the meat very delicious and
tender ; far preferable to meat boiled in water :
the milk enriched with the juice of the meat is
poured on the pillaw of rice or wheat (94). Some
times we had melted butter, and bread baked on
an iron plate^ in the form of a pancake to dip in
it. The staple of the Arabs food, however, is
leban and bread. The milk was usually pre?
sented in a wooden bowl, and the liquid butter
m an earthenware dish C4). ¦ The party being
1 1

482 TRAVELS ROUND [LETTER V.
seated round, dipped their bread in, endeavour
ing to make it imbibe as much as possible. The
Arabs were very expert at this, pinching the thin
cake in such a form as to make a sort of spoon
of it. This mode of eating is alluded to in Scrip
ture at the feast of the Passover X96). Occasionally
a bowl of milk only was presented to us, which
was passed round in rotation. Once we had
milk sweetened and curdled to the consis
tency of liquid jelly, too thick to be drank, and
very aukward to be taken up with the hands,
though it was the only method of eating it. A
rich dish of rice and cream was once given us as
a great treat. All the way between Kerek and
Petra, we had meat served up alone, without
bread or even pillaw of rice or wheat. We could
not at all reconcile ourselves to this diet, which
we found used in this district only. When the
Arabs have an over supply of lefean, they have a
method of preserving it by pressing out the more
liquid parts, and drying the curds, which may
then be kept for some time ; this substance has
the appearance of soft chalk, when mixed with
water it makes an agreeable acid drink.
When we had pillaw of grain, it often served
also for a candlestick, the candle being fixed in
the middle of the dish. An Arab, when he wishes
to pay you very particular attention, pulls your

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 483
meat to pieces with his fingers and throws it to
you. We never saw roasted meat among the
Arabs, except at Narsah's tent at Palmyra. They
have no fruits or vegetables ; their wandering life
depriving them of such enjoyments. It is their
custom from time immemorial, to lodge and feed
all travellers and their horses for one night free of
all expense ; as the practice is general, it is equally
beneficial to all. We never once paid for food
or corn during the whole of our journey, and the
expenses of the whole party, eleven persons and
as many horses, amounted to one thousand "five
hundred piastres ; a piastre is worth nine-pence
of our money, this was from the fifth of May to
the twenty-fifth of June. Each owner of a tent
takes it by turns to feed the Strangers that may
arrive. Their jokes were sometimes rather
rough; on one occasion, an Arab put a living
scorpion inside my jacket (97), luckily, some time
after, I had occasion to make the usual daily
search for vermin, when I discovered the reptile.
At the Ghor, when we asked if a poisonous fruit
was good, they said it was.
The women weave carpets and cloth for their
tents, which are mostly black, and curtains which
are striped white and black. Goat's hair (9B) is
manufactured for this purpose. The women
have hard work, they grind the corn with a
band-mill, bring the water and wood, cook* and

484 TRAVELS ROUND f_LETTER V.
in short do all the drudgery, while the men sit
down and smoke all day. The children guard
the flocks* the girls always having a bundle of
wool at their backs for spinning (")-. The form of
the tents is oblong. We frequently observed negroes
in their canips, apparently not slaves ; and some
had the short woolly hair of the Africans. It may
not be amiss here to mention, that, though we
never had any apprehensions of personal safety
from the Arabs, yet there are some grounds for
the dread these people are held in throughout
Syria, as we met with many dead bodies concealed
in the country frequented by them ; we saw
twenty in one of the Roman tombs near Nablous;
the mouth of which had been shut up with
stones ; three in one of the theatres at Om
Keis ; twenty four skulls, &c. in the theatre
at Bysan, and subsequently twenty two in the
ruins at Heshbon. Whenever we enquired about
these proofs, the Arabs always owned they were
the remains of people whom they had murdered*
and they did not appear to be in the least
ashamed of the deed. One in particular at Om
Keis was stated to be a soldier. To keep your
arms on in a tent, is considered very ill bred, as
implying a distrust in the protection of the roof
you are under ; and whenever we forgot to di&*
arm, the Arabs always requested us to do so.
These people are frequently without water,

LETTER V.J THE DEAD SEA. 485
and sometimes even that which they have is dirty
and bad ; nevertheless they are " lords of the
desert," pay no tribute, and have nothing what
ever to do with governours of any description.
The desert, as one of the ancient authors, I
think Diodorus, observes, is their fort, whither they
retire as to a place of certain safety on any ap
pearance of attack. The state and equipage of
the sheikhs is maintained by means of a revenue
derived from a tithe which they exact , for all
the cattle, the camels excepted (10°). This tenth
of the innumerable herds and flocks, yields the
chiefs a very handsome income. The supper in
Sheikh Narsah's and Ebn Fayes' tents Was bountiful
in the extreme ; and, as this profuse hospitality is
extended to all strangers, there must needs be
ample store to meet so great a demand.
It is surprising, that in so monotonous a life,
they have no amusements, no games, no athletic
employments, to make a little change in their
custom of squatting down and smoking all day.
AU their. carpets, cushions, sacks, and in short,
every thing they have are covered with vermin, so
that it is impossible to avoid them. We used to
kill from off our clothes from forty to a hundred
every day ; and of a night, we frequently ob
served the Arabs searching and shaking their linen
over the fire, the vermin making a cracking noise

486 TRAVELS ROUND THE DEAD SEA. [LETTER V.
as they fell into the flames. Old Yousouf used to
make a singular figure, with his sword drawn,
detaching them from his back. At one time my
sides were quite raw from scratching. On settling
our accounts, both for this last journey,' and the
previous one from Tiberias, we found the ex-
pences of each, much less than we had an
ticipated. July 1 2th. We embarked on board an impe
rial brig belonging to Venice for Constantinople,
as the consuls on the coast, the merchants, and
both Mr. Bankes and Mr. Leigh agreed in opinion,
that it would have been madness to have gone to
the coast of Asia Minor at this season of the year,
when the pestilential air forces all the inhabitants
of the coast to quit their habitations, and retire
to the mountains during the summer. We have,
therefore, deferred this part of the tour for a short
time. Our friend, Mr. Legh, left Acre for this
place by land, a short time before we did, intend
ing to visit Palmyra, Baalbec, Damascus, and
Aleppo. Mr. Bankes went by water to Egypt,
with the intention of penetrating into Abyssinia
by way of the second cataract. We were truly
sorry to part with such excellent companions.

LETTER VI.

Departure from Constantinoplefor Scutari. — Crostan arm
of the sea of Marmora, and proceed through Kisdervent.
—Isnik. — Lefke.—Bilejik. — Shuhut. — Eski-Shehr.
— Sidi Gazi. — Khosru Khan. — Bulwudun  Isaklu. —
Ak-Shehr. — Ilgun. — KhadunKhan. — Ladik  Ko-
nieh.~ Kdrabignar. — Erkle. — Olukooshlah. — Take
hur. — Kolinkboaz. to Tersoos, — thence through Pom-
peiopolis, and several other ruins, to Chelindreh.
Cyprus, 10th December.
Having equipped ourselves with a tolerable
Turkish travelling costume, a firman, a transla
tion of which herewith, and two biruldies for
post-horses; the fees for the former, were fifteen
piastres; and the latter forty-four. <We crossed
over from Constantinople in the afternoon of the
29th of September, to Scutari, accompanied by
a Tartar whom we had agreed to pay ten piastres
per day, and to allow a sum for his return to
Constantinople from Athens; we had with diffi
culty reduced the latter allowance from four
hundred, which he demanded, to two/ hundred

488 TRAVELS IN [LETTER VI.
piastres ; the journey being only eight days, and
for which he had a separate biruldi, for three
horses, gratis. We had only engaged this man
at so high a price, in the hope that he might
assist us in enforcing the orders we had for our
horses free of expense, which would have
amounted to much more than his wages. Besides
the Tartar, we had only one servant, and scarcely
any baggage.
Our intention was to have pushed through the
heart of Asia Minor, from Scutari to Tersoos,
and .from thence to the coast, through Cilitia,
Pamphylia, Lycia, Caria, and Ionia to Smyrna
visiting the different antiquities that came in
our way. From Smyrna we intended to pass on
to-Pergamus and Troy, cross the Dardanelles,
and proceed to Athens by land* to which place
we had directed our baggage to be forwarded
from Constantinople. We should have preferred
purchasing our animals, and selling them again at
the end of ,the journey ; in this manner the daily
eexpenses would have been restricted to provisions
-only, while the travelling firman,if properly worded>
would have obtained fodder gratis, But this plan
would not have admitted of the expedition we
wished ; we, therefore, used the post-horses.
.We found, however, that this method wasag
expensive as if we had paid for .the horses' hjjfej.foi

LETTER VI.J ' ASIA MINOR. 489
although the biruldies state the horses are to be
supplied free of expense, it is customary to fee
the postmasters, which our Tartar did to such a
degree, including every body who chose to ask
him for money, that when we included his wages,
and the expense of his return to Constantinople,
the daily amount at least equalled what the hire
of the horses, without a Tartar, would have come
to. We were detained at the post-house, at Scutari,
till sun-set, before we could procure horses, when
we proceeded through a beautiful country, the
road passing generally near the sea of Marmora:
We traversed the villages of Gaobin arid Ben-
dick. September 30th. At two in the morning we ar
rived at Ghiviza, said to be the Lybissa of antiquity*
the place where Hannibal was buried. We re
mained here only an hour, and at day-light reached
the ferry, whence we crossed over an arm of the
sea of Marmora to a coffee-house detached from
the village of Ersek, where we were to receive
fresh post-horses. At the upper extremity of
this bay are the uuins of the ancient Nicomedia..
This ferry is used to shorten the road, instead
of being obliged to go all round the bay;
we* therefore, missed the sight of the ruins of
Nicodemia, which we did not much regret, as
Messrs. Bayley, Godfrey, and Wy.se, had visited

490 TRAVELS IN [LETTER VI.
them, from Constantinople while we were there,
and on their return reported, that they did not
present sufficient remains to attract the traveller
out of his way.
We reposed till about ten o'clock, and then ad
vanced through a picturesque country. In six
hours we arrived at a village called Kisdervent,
where we again rested for about two hours.
The natives of this village are entirely Greeks ;
they appeared an industrious people. It is situ
ated in a romantic valley, with a stream running
through it ; there is a profusion of wild shrubs
as well as gardens, and mulberries for the silk
worms. We remained about two hours, and
then advanced. Towards sun-set we quitted the
valley and crossed some hills, when we came in
sight of the lake Ascanius, which we bordered
till ten at night, and then reached a considerable
place, situated at its eastern extremity, called
Isnik, or Tchinisli, on the site of the ancient
Nicaea. The present town occupies but a very
small portion of the ground enclosed by the
ancient walls, which are in a tolerable state
of preservation, and at the gate are several Greek
inscriptions. There is little else of interest at
Nicsea except the walls. In 1097 the place was
taken by the famous Godefroi de Bouillon. The
plain of Tchinisli is extremely rich and beautiful,
has fine gardens, and is well watered.

LETTER VI.J ASIA MINOR. 49 1
October 1. In the morning we ascended a
hilly country, whence; in seven hours; we de
scended into the town of Lefke, having first
crossed a considerable river over which there is a
bridge. This river appears to be a branch of
the ancient Sangarius, which discharges itself into
the Euxine Sea. An inscription by the road side,
as we descended, shewed we were in the old way.
We slept this night at a village called Bilejik,
four hours beyond Lefke. The next day, in
eight hours we arrived at Shuhut, situated in a
beautiful valley, from whence we crossed hills,
and in ten hours more arrived in Eski Shehr.
October 3. At six o'clock we proceeded on
our journey, through a country consisting of
open, naked plains, and at noon stopped at Sidi
Gazi. In this place are many ancient fragments,
such as pieces of columns, friezes, altars, and in
scriptions. We remained one hour, and then as
cended through a woody country into park scenery,
where we found a stag standing in the road ; he
allowed us to come so near before he retired, that
the Tartar dismounted to fire at him. At six we
passed a road-side fountain, at which were several
antique fragments ; one bore a Greek inscription
and the cross.
We stopped for the night at Khosru Khan, a
miserable place, the houses being, mere huts, built

492 TRAVELS IN [LETTER Vl.
of rough stones and timber ; and here we first came
to the flat roofs. There are in the neighbourhood
many remains of columns, an altar with a female
figure, and another bearing a Greek inscription.
The next day our road conducted us through a
woody country ; at eight we breakfasted at a
fountain built with stones, on some of which were
Roman sculpture, and a Greek inscription. Towards
noon we passed two ancient cemeteries, con
sisting of grottos cut out in the rock ; we examined
some of them, but found them very much decayed
and without plaster. Near to the last was also
a Mahommedan burial-ground, but no village in
sight. On our right we saw a curd camp; the
tents were black like those of the Arabs. At
four we reached a dirty place, situated at the
beginning of a plain called Bulwudun; this plain
is in many parts swampy, and must be unhealthy
in the summer. We proceeded at five, and at
dark we came to a causeway. At ten we reached .
Isaklu, a considerable place, in the neighbourhood
of rich gardens.
October 5. We proceeded through a fertile
plain, bounded by a range of hills close on our
right. The plain is well watered, and in the
distance to the left are swamps and lakes ; in five
hours we* arrived at Ak-Shehr, a large town
surrounded by fertile gardens. To give some

LETTER VI.J ASIA MINOR. 493
idea of the figure which a rich Turk makes in
travelling in this country, we give a sketch of the
family and attendants of a pashaw whom we met
on the road this morning on his way to Constan*
tinople. The procession commenced with several
black slaves on horseback, followed by the harem
of young and handsome women in a tackterwan ;
to this succeeded another, with female slaves,
some black, some white ; and after them were
several respectable looking Turks,- on horseback ;
to these succeeded the tackterwan of the pashaw,
who was lolling on a sofa between cushions ;
soldiers, and other attendants* closed his trains
Two Tartars, bound to Adana, also passed us
from the capital. From Ak-Shehr we proceeded
through a poor country, and in six hours reached
Ilgun, where we remained for the night*
October 6. The road led us through a country
of downs ; in seven hours we reached Khadun
Khan; here are some Roman ruins, basso-relievos,
inscriptions, a lion, fragments of columns in the
burial-ground, &c; the cross generally accom
panies the inscriptions. Beyond this place, to the
right of the road, are two old altars with Greek
inscriptions, and fragments of columns, used as
mere modern graVe-stones ; the Turks called
them the five brothers, who they say were buried
here, after having fallen in a civil war, at what
period was not mentioned. In three hours from

494 TRAVELS IN [LETTER VI.
Khadun-Khan we reached Ladik, where we re
mained for the night. The Mahommedan burial-
ground of this place contains many columns'
friezes, and i inscriptions of the lower empire.
These Christian epitaphs are frequently used as
head stones of the Turkish graves, the cross
being left very perfect and unmutilated upon
them, and the stones placed as at Christian graves,
except that the head is towards Mekka.
October 7. This morning we proceeded through
plains, and travelled eight hours, arriving at noon at
Konieh the capital of a pashalic ; it is at present
a large town, environed like most of the cities of
Turkey by rich gardens. The citadel is in the
centre, encloses a great part of the town, and is
surrounded by a wall and fosse. The walls are
built out of the fragments of the ancient city, and
contain basso-relievos, Greek inscriptions, altars,
lion's heads, sphinxes, eagles, and differently formed
large crosses. This was anciently Iconium, the
capital of Lycaonia, where St. Paul preached and
made many converts to Christianity (101). The fosse,
surrounding the walls without, is partly filled with
rubbish, the rest is a shallow swamp with much
verdure. We observed in it some beautiful spe
cimens of the flowering rush. The post-house
where we lodged was outside the walls ; we did
not, therefore, enter the citadel, as we were h>

LETTER VI.J ASIA MINOR. 495
formed the pashaws permission was necessary ;
and such was the cowardly conduct of our Tartar;
Mustaffa, that we could not persuade him even to
ask whether there were any antiquities within the
walls : he said, that we must not think of such
things in Turkish towns. Unfortunately we had
no other interpreter. From the little information
we could receive, it appeared that there are no
other remains in the citadel, than such fragments
as we had seen on the outside walls; from the
number and variety of these, we may judge that
Iconium was once a handsome city. The inhabi
tants of Konieh appeared a fanatical people ; they
were very rude, and the Tartar was quite afraid of
them. At four o'clock we procured post-horses, and
proceeded until eleven at night through rich but
uncultivated plains, not meeting with a single
habitation till we reached the small village where
we slept.
Oetober 8. At daylight we advanced through
open plains, having some villages in sight and
partial cultivation. At nine we stopped at a
village to refresh the horses, there being no barley
where we slept. Here we remained till noon,
and then proceeded through fine plains without
cultivation. At sun-set we arrived at Karabignar*
situated near some volcanic mounds. We were

496 TRAVELS IN [LETTER VI.
informed that the principal one has a lake in the
centre; that near to the town has two ruined
Roman towers on it. The village consists of
miserable houses, and the post house was unusually
dirty. There is a handsome khan and mosque
which was built by a sultan who made the pil
grimage to Mekka; both are now in a ruinous
condition. October 10. This morning a Kiah-bey arrived and
several Tartars, whom our attendant allowed to
take all the best horses, so that we could not get
off till ten o'clock, and then with some miserable
animals which could scarcely move : one had died
in the stable that morning. The manner in which
these poor creatures are treated and worked by
the Tartars and surugees (hostlers) is extremely
cruel, but we had never observed any thing half
so bad as at this post house.
Shortly after we had left Karabignar, we passed
close to an insulated circular mound of conical
form, surrounded by a natural fosse, partly filled
with salt water ; the ground is covered with ashes
and scoriae to a considerable extent. From thence
the plain became again more level. About two
o'clock, we observed three surugees returning on
the road, with several post horses which our Tartar
wished to get in exchange for our bad ones. The
surugees, who are accustomed to this, immediately

LETTER VI.J ASIA MINOR. 497
on observing us turned out of the road, and made
a circuit to avoid us; they were pursued in vain
by Mustaffa on the best of our poor animals, which
falling with him, he was obliged to return.
At five we passed a neat village, entirely
deserted by its inhabitants, in consequence of
the oppression of the government. On seeing
this recent instance of a people obliged' to
abandon their homes, we easily accounted
for the general depopulation of the country,
and the very great extent of rich plain which
appears uncultivated. In this neighbourhood
we observed many Turkomen's tents or huts;
they are remarkably < neat and clean, made in a
circular form, with canes arranged in the shape of
net-work ; there is a dome roof on the outside of
the cane-work, which appears well adapted for
admitting the air in hot weather. At night a
curtain of canvas, or cloth, is let down. Some
Curds were passing the night here ; further on we
observed some camels left singly to die on the
plain ; this, it appears, is a constant practice. If a
camel falls sick, or is exhausted with age, so as to
be unable to proceed with his burthen* it is left
behind to take its chance. Some days-afterwards
our surugee left one of our post-horses in this
manner, but he had the chance of finding the '
animal again on his return the next day, which
K K

498 TRAVELS IN [LETTER VI.
could not be the case in the instance of a caravan
of camels. At, eight o'clock at night we arrived
at Erkle or Ellegria, situated by the side of the
plain in an enclosed country, with beautiful
hedges, willows, fields, and gardens* which we
passed through for an hour before we reached
the town. Erkle appears to agree in situation
with the ancient Tyana, which was in this part of
the country, and is the only place, sufficiently
large to be called a town, between Konieh
(Iconium) and Tersoos. We however did .not.
remark any remains of antiquity in the neigh
bourhood. The situation is extremely richjand
well watered ; the town is neater than usual, and
has. a good khan and mosque. The governour
had put all the surugees in prison for having
occasioned the death of a post-horse ; it was .with
difficulty : our Tartar, could get one released
to proceed with us, and it was not till eleven.
o'clock on the tenth that we were clear of the
town. We soon quitted the beautiful gardens of
Erkle, and entered into a hilly country. We
passed several, rivulets of fine, clear water, and at
two in the afternoon a village ; from hence we as
cended into a country of a different nature,, and as
naked as the plains ; the latter must stand .at.
a considerable height above the level of the sea,

LETTER VI.J ASIA MINOR. 499
as, after a moderate ascent, we observed that the
highest points of Mount Taurus on our right,
with large patches of last year's snow, were but
little above us. At sun-set we stopped at a small
place called Olukooshlah, where, besides the post
house, there are only a few huts and a khan for
the hadj ; the country is bare. The next day we
could not procure horses till ten o'clock ; an hour's
journey brought us to some trees and gardens,
shortly after which we came to a river, and conti
nued by the side of it till sun-set, except for
about one hour which was occupied (about two
o'clock) in passing over a projection of the
mountain, presenting perpendicular cliffs to each
side of the river, and rendering it impossible for
the road to continue in the ravine. On the sides
of the highest parts of these mountains are rich
vineyards; the natives bring the grapes down to the
road in small baskets, to sell them to the passing
traveller; the grapes are of an unusually rich
flavour. When we joined the river's side again,
we found the scenery gradually increase in
beauty. The stream winds through a narrow
Valley between the mountains, whose sides are
sometimes sloping and covered with fir-trees, and
sometimes present perpendicular cliffs. We found
many fragments of breccia, porphyry, serpentine,
and black and white marble, the production of

500 TRAVELS IN [LETTER VI.
this range. At sun-set we arrived at a pictu
resque bridge of one bold arch thrown across
th£ stream ; below it are the ruins of another,
probably Roman; there is also a fountain of
remarkably cold water. Here we deviated to the
right from the course of the river; the road
became rugged, and the scenery less picturesque ;
the summits of the hills were singularly pointed.
At eleven o'clock, we arrived at a post house
called Takehur, situated in a wild place, sur
rounded by rugged hills and fir trees.
October 12. We proceeded at eight o'clock,
but had only advanced a few paces When we
came to an open rupture with our Tartar ; we had
often told him to be less liberal with our money in
fees at the post houses. At Takehur he complied
with the increasing demands of the post-master,
though we had desired him to desist. When we
rebuked him for it, he said he would return with
the horses, and let us make a bargain for ourselves.
As we knew that the post-master would exact
more when he found that we ceased to have the
protection of the Tartar, we were obliged to
desire him to go forward. He* however, in a
peremptory manner, ordered the surugee to
return with our baggage, and we proceeded
alone with our servant. Shortly, however, the
post-master and surugee, the former mounted on

LETTER VI.J; ASIA MINOR. 501
our own Tartar's horse, and armed with his
pistols, appeared in our rear, uttering violent
threats and menaces, and ordering us to stop.
When they overtook us, we were obliged, after
some disputing, to give up the horses ; but as we
could not submit to be ordered back, and by a
person in our pay, who was sent to obey us, we
preferred walking on foot to returning to the
post house, where we should have been exposed
to the ridicule of every body. We continued to
advance in spite of the solicitations of the post
master, who soon left us. After proceeding for
about two hours, our Tartar came to his senses
again, and rejoined us with our horses and baggage.
About one hour's journey from Takehur, we
observed that the road was cut through the rock
with some labour, and by the side of the stream,
near a small fall of water, there is a large square
tablet bearing a Greek inscription* but we found
it impossible to get near enough to copy.it. The
rock is cut away in other parts to form the road.
The Turks call the place Kolinkboaz, or passage
out with a hammer,, and there can be no doubt
that it was one of the Tauri Pylae, or Cilicias
Pylse of the ancients. About noon we came to a
guard house and fountain, where the roads to
Tersoos and Adana separate ; the former is the
principal one, being the route to Aleppo, Syria,

502 TRAVELS IN [LETTER VI.
and Mekka ; the latter, which turns to the right,
we followed. It soon became very rugged and
crossed numerous ravines ; we had been the whole
day upon a gradual slope ; at three o'clock we came
upon a plain by a more rapid descent ; we had
on our left a Turkish castle on an eminence.
About four o'clock we passed a piece of a column
of very handsome porphyry.
Shortly after this the road turned more to the
right, and we passed an old Roman castle on the
left. About five we came upon the side of a
ravine (enclosing a very considerable river, perhaps
the Cydnus, and descended into the great plain
of Tersoos at dusk. At eight we stopped for the
night at a very small village. From three to six, the
country was covered with bushes, amongst which
we observed the myrtle in great quantity and
perfection, sometimes seven or eight feet high ;
the arbutus, Vallonia oak, oleander, carob, caper
plant, &c. &c. The plain of Tersoos is destitute
of trees.
October 13. At five we proceeded, and at
seven reached the khan in Tersoos, having crossed
the Cydnus over a considerable bridge.
COAST OF KARAMANIA.
Tersoos the ancient Tarsus, lies about a mile
to the S. W. of the Cydnus; it has no good

LETTER Vl.J ASIA MINOR. 60S
buildings, and is but ill supplied with the neces
saries of life. When the officers of the Fre-
derikstein visited TersooS, they remarked the savage
¦looks of the natives ; but we found them a civil,
quiet, and well-disposed people. The difference
may be attributed to the present Pashaw of
Adana, to whose government Tersoos belongs,
and who is a mild and just man. According to
the report of Mons. Peretier, the French cohsUl, he
has taken such measures to punish theft, even in the
'smallest degree, that no such thing as a robbery is
ever heard of in this district ; both Mons. Peretier
and Mons. Guys his assistant, are dressed as Franks,
in which costume they pass freely in the streets
fWithout the least annoyance from any body;
while Mons. Guys was shewing us about the town,
We observed that the women, seeing by our com
panion that we were Franks* generally contrived
to let their veils slip aside whenever we passed
any that were in the least good-looking ; on the
contrary, when we were alone, and taken for
Turks, they always covered their faces in a hasty
manner, and appeared frightened.
About a mile to the north of the town, the river,
previously of a considerable depth and breadth,
falls over a bed of rocks about fifteen feet in
height, whence it separates into several small
channels, turning mills, and watering beautiful

504 TRAVELS IN [LETTER VI.
gardens. These streams afterwards unite in one,
and so continue to the sea. We were told that
the .inhabitants do not drink of the water of the
river, deeming it unhealthy. Many of the princi
pal houses are "supplied from wells, but we saw
many of the people, filling their jars from the
tributary streams. The antiquities of this place
are but few ; fragments of friezes, columns, and
-Corinthian capitals are scattered about in various
;parts of the town. The governour lately made
excavations for stones to build with, when many
columns, &c. were found, shewing the abundance
of antique remains which must still exist under
ground. , There are two gates, one at S. W. and
fthe other; at the, N. E. part of the town ; they are
simple arches, but were once decorated. To the
N. W- of the town, traces of the ancient wall are
distinguishable, and a citadel tolerably perfect to
the north. . We only saw one inscription in
Greek, on a stone which forms part of the eleva
tion, of the side payement pf the street, in going
from the khan to the,Ni E. gate. It is not very
perfect; the letters are .inverted, and it is in a
situation which renders it difficult to copy.
The commerce of Tersoos, at present, consists
chiefly in cotton, of which the neighbouring
pkins afford, an abundant supply. The khan was
so full pf merchandize and its proprietors, that

LETTER VI.] ASIA MINOR. 505
we could not obtain a room in it, but lodged on
a stage under the piazzas. Goods from Egypt,
&c. for Adana, are landed at the scala, and thence
transported by camels. Monsieur Peretier's
daughter was residing with her ; father at Ter
soos. They export great quantities of cotton.
The Armenian, church is reported to have been
the dwelling house of the father of St. Paul, who
was a native of- Tarsus ; but there is as little
probability of this being the real place of his
abode, as there is of the church of Tiberius
having been that of St. Peter.
Strabo states " that the Cydnus ran through
the heart of the city." As the Cydnus is now
a good half hour's walk from the modern town,
some idea may, from- this circumstance, be formed
of its original dimensions. We are told also
that it was powerful, populous, and maintained
the dignity of a metropolis. In Beaufort's work,
it appears that the officers of the Frederickstein
were informed that the ruins of a theatre, covered
with bushes, lay near the river; this would in
some measure corroborate the statement of
Strabo ; but we inquired in various quarters about
thistheatre, without being able to obtain any infor
mation concerning it. We need hardly remark that
the Cydnus is famous for the meeting of Marc
Anthony and Cleopatra, and for having endangered

506 TRAVELS IN [LETTER VI.
the life of Alexander the Great, by his bathing
in it; we bathed in it above the falls, and found
the water unusually cold, but felt no ill effects
from it. Though it was now the middle -of
October, the heat was so great that the ther
mometer, on the day we arrived, stood at ninety-
two degrees in the shade, and during the week
we were at Tersoos, it was never below eighty.
October 20. We had some difficultyin coming
to a decision about the continuance of our journey^
whether it should be by sea or by land ; the
exorbitant prices demanded for vessels, in con
sequence, perhaps, of this being the time of
shipping the cotton, occasioned us to make the
final arrangement for proceeding by land. We
had six horses for forty-five piastres per day, it
being considered as four days' journey to Selefketh.
At noon we left Tersoos, taking', with us
a good supply of . BastoUrma (hung beef),
prepared and cured by the Turkomen, who
bring it to Tersoos for sale. Our other articles
of provision were musty biscuits, and very indif
ferent brandy distilled from figs; no cheese could
be procured. We had been informed that the
country through which we were to pass was thinly
peopled, and . very ill supplied with provisions.
We proceeded by the road to Kazalu and the
Scala; in about two hours and a half we turned

LETTER VI.J ASIA MINOR. 507
out of it, to the right to a small miserable looking
village. At three o'clock we reached an artificial
mound, noticed in Captain Beaufort's work; we
found pottery and other remains on its summit,
.but no distinct foundations. Here we had a fine
view over the plain; the village of Kazalu with
its gardens; the coffee-house at the Scala, and
the sea with three or four vessels at anchor. We
passed on to the westward through the plain,
which was partly cultivated with cotton, and
through the ruins of a town which appears to have
been' constructed of large stones, but there is- only
part of a building standing, which is of Turkish
architecture, perhaps a mosque. A little further
on, to our left, was another artificial mound, with
remains of a fort on it, having square towers at
the angles. A third height of the same kind
was in sight still further to the westward. Before
sun-rset we stopped near a small mill turned «by
a pretty: little stream, the ground was covered
over with dwarf wood. The plain, between the
sea on the one hand, and the foot of the moun
tains (hitherto well clothed on their sides with
wood) on the. other, was now considerably de
creased in breadth.
October 21. At eight in the morning we ad
vanced on our journey, shortly after which we were
environed by gardens of fig, orange*- lemon trees,

508 TRAVELS IN ^LETTER VI.
vines; &c. growing in the most luxuriant manner,
the ground being here well watered with rivulets;
in the midst of them was a village; the people
had been mostly sleeping in the open:air, as we
found their beds, mats, quilts, &c. under the trees.
This cultivated tract, however, is very limited in
its extent, as we almost immediately passed again
into the same kind of dwarf woodland which we
had quitted in the morning.
We shortly passed another artificial hill, with
ruins of large stones. From the position of these
mounds, at such regular distances, it seems
likely that they may have been thrown up for
fortifications, and for the purpose of commanding
a view of the plain and sea.
About ten we crossed a considerable stream,
and shortly after reached the ruins of Pompeio-
polis. Time and the weather have given the
columns a black and dismal appearance, and they
are surrounded with dark looking bushes. Forty
four columns, of a bad style, are standing, out of
about two hundred ; but what is that to Palmyra
or Djerash where two hundred and forty still
stand with their capitals and epistylia ? the re
mains of perhaps two thousand! With the ex
ception of the colonnades and some sarcophagi
which are scattered about without the walls, and
are of large dimensions, we found little to interest'

LETTER VI.J ASIA MINOR. 509
us. The theatre is in a most ruinous state, as
is the ancient port, filled with an accumulation
of earth. The remains of the town are so
blocked up with bushes and briars, that we had
more, trouble in making our way thrbugh them
than they deserved. At noon we again advanced ;
the same sort of wood scenery continued, in which
we saw the myrtle in great perfection, the fir, the
arbutus, carob* bay-tree, turpentine, and the Vallo-
nia oak. Some of the bushes were frequently
entwined to their very summits by the wild vine :
there were other shrubs whose names we were
unacquainted with: The rivers are occasionally
bordered by the oleander, but it was not in blossom.
We crossed two streams, the last of which has a
bridge of Turkish construction.
About two o'clock P.M. we joined our conductor,
who had remained behind at Tersoos to procure
barley for the horses, and had arrived last night
at the place where we found him. He had come
a different road, and said that the man whom he
had left with us had misled us. Shortly after
we stopped at another large bridge over a consi
derable river. At five we stopped, for. the night
on the banks , of another, whose stream is" so rapid,
that two bridges, constructed over different parts
of it, have been washed away.; it was, however,
fordable in one place. The water of this river

510 ' TRAVELS IN [LETTER VI.
is of a Very white colour, as if its course had been
through a calcareous bed ; the plane tree as well
as the carob are of a considerable size near the
banks of the stream. A castle stands at the foot
of the hills a-breast of Pompeiopolis ; we did not
examine it.
October 22. At seven o'clock we were on the
road ; we shortly passed an artificial mound with
ruins on it; the country was more open and in
parts boggy. We passed several places where the
natives tread out their corn, and near them were
stages' on which they sleep: these stages are
raised on high poles for the sake of air in the
hot summer nights. At nine we breakfasted near
a river, which we crossed at ten, and then entered
again into a country of dwarf woocl : the road oc
casionally turned to the sea beach, for the purpose
of crossing rivulets which are fordable only at
the bars near their junction with the sea. The
sea was, however, generally hidden from sight by
high mounds of sand. At noon we quitted the
plain country, and crossed a small rocky hill on the
coast, which appears to have been inclosed with
walls in ancient times, and was probably a boun
dary between Cilicia Campestris and Aspera.
On its western side we came upon a sandy bay of
the coast, at the discharge of a large river, which
winds so extremely near its junction with the sea,

LETTER Vl.J ASIA MINOR. 5 1 1
that its course bends almost back into parallel lines.
On the right is a bridge over the river, and near is
a village on a hill. The stones have been col
lected in heaps over this part of the country with
great labour and perseverance, proving that in
former times there must have been a considerable
population, the foundation of small square
towers, probably posts of communication, are
visible here and there. Higher up, across a ro
mantic ravine, is a Roman aqueduct of. pictu
resque appearance, its height is so great as to
require a double tier of arches. Here we came
upon a very stony coast; our condUdtor lost
his way, having crossed the river at its mouth
instead of the bridge; a little deviation inland,
however, brought us again into the right track,
which was very rugged and stony. We found,
hereabouts, troughs cut in the rocks, and holes
through them to tie cattle to ; the land also was
cleared as much as possible for pasturage, by
heaping up the stones.
At ten o'clock we reached some considerable,
ruins ; they. stand upon an elevated spot,|fronting
the sea, and consist. of several buildings within;
walls ; the first we examined, beginning to the
north, appeared to have been a theatre, both from
its semicircular shape, and its, sloping appearance
within; we could observe several pieces of seats

512. TRAVELS IN [LETTER VI.
/
scattered about, and part of one of the vomi
tories. At its S. W; angle* is avsmalfer building,
with some circular foundation in front of it ;
facing.! these buildings is the largest of the
ruins; .at the N. E. angle of which are the;
remains of a spiral stair-case. >.¦ The Whole edifidea
is of yery. > considerable size, -and has been, orna
mented within with arched recesses on all sides.
Whether it was a * great- Christian - church *oru a'
paliae© is -uncertain.- To the east of it is a small
temple,; its internal form is that of a cross ; iftis
surmounted with a*dome, -Very neatly built, and*
hasfour arched recesses. On either side of theie
recesses are small chambers, which. give the-
whole a square external form. At each <asngi%-
of the recesses are Corinthian ,pilastersy ..and ovej
each arch a cross is .sculptured in, relievo., >In
front of t this building- appeared a vast paved;
terrace, which proved on examination to be only-.
thet#op of an immense reservoir of water^inio^
which there is a descent by steps**, > Being drjj, i$r
appeared like a vast hall; it is forty-fUse paces i
long, -and* twenty wideband is divided into ,thre#r.
longf arcfied | divisions* by two, rows of ^six piiit?
each; its depth appeared to^be above forty feet.;
Near the S* W. angle ; of this tank is a small
edifice which seems to. have had- a semicircular*
back and ends, Over the door-way is a Greek

LETTER VI. J ASIA MINOR. 513
inscription of five lines, not very perfect, but in
such a state that a Greek scholar might perhaps
be able to transcribe it. There are several small
tanks amongst the ruins, and in one of the build
ings in the eastern part we saw an immense
mill-stone. We know not the ancient name of
this .place; the natives call it AukuHah. The
tank and great building agree in position with
those mentioned in Captain Beaufort's book,
as lying four miles east of Ayash* and two west
of the river Latmus, which is certainly the river
we crossed at noon. In Macbean's Dictionary
we find that the river Latmus had a cognominal
town, and as there are no ruins nearer to the
river, these may perhaps be the ruins of Latmus.
At two we proceeded over a stony road; the
grand aqueduct from the Latmus still continues,
across the ravines it is necessarily constructed on
arches. We passed a burial place called Shede-
lah, apparently of early Mahommedan date. At
four we descended into a sandy bay, where,
finding some wells of water, we stopped for the
night. We conversed at these wells with some
natives, who called the place Ayash. Here were
a few uninhabited huts, and we were told of
a village at half an hours' distance above.
We were surrounded- by ruins and Cyclopean
L L

514 TRAVELS IN [LETTER VI.
walls of large stones, as well for the support of
buildings as for terracing up the land for culture.
We employed the remainder of the, evening, of
the ,22nd in examining the ruins which lay near
us, intending to visit the remainder in succession,
as we passed on to the westward the next day.
The principal object was a tomb built of a square
form, with an arched porch on one aide, and a
square door; at the opposite side. There were
composite pilasters at the angles, a lion's ,_ head
frieze, and a pointed roof with pediments,
within, the ceiling is arched; the chamber has
four , places , for bodies below, and .five in an
elevated sort of stone bench above. There are
two other tombs of this description in ruins
near it, and close to the sea shore, is a large
Christian church. The canopy of the altar place
has the remains of three saints painted on it;
the centre one, by the difference of dress and shape,
appears to have been intended for a female;
perhaps they represented the trinity. The side
walls are mostly fallen, but over the door; in
front, a cross is sculptured in relief, thus /^3lT\
and some visitor has scratched near it, a^Qfj? 3
flag on a staff, probably a banner imprinted, by
some crusader. Farther to the west are the ruins
of another church, with p.art of a mosaic ceiling.
Near this place the grand, aqueduct passes on

LETTER VI.] ASIA MINOR. 515
two different levels; beyond. it is another tomb
of the same description as that first mentioned.
It has six elevated recesses for corpses, and one
larger over the door. The chamber is six and 4
half paces by five; the porch two and a half deep,*
near it are many large sarcophagi.-
October 23. We started early on foot, the
horses following; we soon ascended an ancienti
paved way, lined with many of those square
tombs described yesterday, more or less perfect,
as well as with many large sarcophagi. Some of
these are very beautifully ornamented in relieVo ;
one in particular represented an eagle treading
on a serpent, and holding a wreath on each side;
supported at the other ends by cherubs, with a
rose over each wreath. Another had an ox's head
suspending wreaths of vines, pomegranates,
grapes, &c. Some had tablets for inscriptions* and
some were inscribed in large Greek characters
covering the whole of one side. Besides the
tombs and sarcophagi, we found some pieces of
rich frieze as well as several altars; and there
were edifices which appeared not to have been
tombs but habitations, some of which looked
modern. This paved road finally brought us to
a sandy bay, and an isthmus which separated a
roeky promontory from the main line of rugged
coast.

516 M0TRAVELS IN [LETTER VI.
r^Here .the' great ..aqueduct again appears,
though; i much in , .ruins ; , > and near it ( are the
remains of a., palace, the facade of which is one
hundredjpaces across. It has had a colonnade in
f^nfeaol sixteen pillars; the pedestals only re-,
main; a great many shafts of columns are made,
use of, as modern fences on the isthmus. At the
back of the palace, on the side of the hill* ap
pears, to have stood a theatre, but it is more
ruined, even than that of Pompeiopolis. On the
promontory are many ruined buildings ;n one of
these has three columns of a portico in front of
it still standing ; the shafts and capitals are of a
single piece, and of good marble: they are of
the1; Corinthian order. t According to Captain
Beaufort, these are the ruins of Eleusa or :Ser
baste; and the building on 0 the promontory*
supposing it to have been ,once an island, which
is very possible, was perhaps the palace of Archer
laus. f That on the main has, however,; been^hj
far the more considerable edifice., blind brrs affew
,( , Passing on westward to the next eminence, we
came to a large % temple oft fluted columns,
standing in a very conspicuous situation. In
ascending to it from the ruins of Eleusa, there
is^a place in the road, where one sloping, slippery
stone of marble, constitutes the whole width, be
tween a perpendicular precipice of some height

LETTER VI.J m ASIA MINOR. 517
on one side, and a tree on the; other; We 'dis
mounted, and led our horses up it; but thrjrp'Boi
baggage horse who Could not besof easily lightfift6
e'd of his burthen,' fell over <* the precipice,' ^fer^
tunately without injury/ the 'baggage breaking
his fall: this gave us time to examine, at leisure';,.!
a 'tbnib*' standing near the sea shore, tb the Wes'f-
wiard' of the temple."1'* It is sqUare and has' a
pyramidal roof, but is only that of a Mahommedan
saint; it has an Oriental inscription over the dooi1'-
way, and in the chamber within is the usual 'Milt
grave with the cap of a dervis sculptured on M;
the head is 'placed towards Mekka.* It has,howevef,
been built out of Roman ruins; one of the stoiies
had' the letters B. A. inverted; Captain Beaufort,
by*his description of this tomb,' does not 'seem to
have' been aware of the real character of it. a-tesd
rf^From hence we ascended by the ancient paved
way which brought us up to a castle : here we
entered byan'arched way into a street of ruined
walls and buildings, passing on our left a magni
ficent palace. It has had three ardhed doors and
many windows; the interior is divided into various
apartments, supported by columns, which have all
fallen. Their capitals are in the form of an in
verted bell, and have four crosses enclosed in cir
cular wreaths 'sculptured on them; they appear,
therefore, to be of Christian times ; they have a

5 1 8 TRAVELS IN ^LETTER VI.
heavy, ugly appearance. There are others orna-
riiented with a variety of decoration. At the
east end the building finishes in the form of a
half dome ; this would look like a church, were it
not for 'Windows in that part* and that the building
has had upper stories supported on piers. From
hence we descended through rough, ruined build
ings, and lines of innumerable large sarcophagi;
one in particular was beautifully decorated with
processions of figures in basso-relievo, bringing of
ferings to an urn. A great many have crosses, and
Some have inscriptions upon them. It would ap
pear from the former circumstance, that they are
generally of no earher period than the lower
empire. There are also plenty of sepulchral grottos
cut in the rock, and many of these also bear in
scriptions. The valley into which we descended leads to
the sea shore, where stands a fine old castle, with
the remains Of a pier projecting into the sea, and
the ruins of a building at its extremity. On the
hill, to the east of the valley, are the ruins 6f a
considerable town ; and on the sides of that to the
west, are the remains of houses cut out of the
rbck itself. On the upper part of these hills
stands a sarcophagus, singularly placed on the
top of a ruined building ; a large hole has been
forced into the end of it. As it stands on a base

LETTER VI. J ASIA MINOR. 5^9
no greaterthan itself* no footing could be obtained
for th6 purpose of forcing the lid off* and thehple
must have been made :by. means of a bladder,.
Somewhere on this hill is a modern village ; ; (the
inhabitants whom we met called it , Ichuran.
Crossing over the foot, of this western <hill we
came up on a' sandy bay, in front of which stands
another castle on an island. A low rocky point
extends both from the island and the western side
of the bay, and, perhaps, it was once connected
with the main land. At the east side of the. sandy
beach, several springs of fresh water issue from, the
rocks close to the sea ; here we stopped to break
fast in sight of both the castles : these are- the
ruins of the ancient Corycus. It was the, first
spring of running water we had met with, since
we crossed the Latmus, between which and the
Calycadnus there is no river, and this is the reason
why so many vast aqueducts and reservoirs were
required for the supply of the different ancient
cities. We conversed with several of the natives, and
inquired particularly for the saffron cave of
Strabo ; they told us we should come to it in our
road, but there is no doubt they were deceiving
us. We had observed, from the heights, towers
at (regular distances along the coast. At eleven
o'clock we proceeded on our journey, over a rough

520 TRAVELS IN [LETTER VI.
road; the coast toiifche; westward; forms many bays
a/ad inlets, j In theifirst of these we found asmall
,«essei lying i at &nphor> which had- bsought iron,
coffee, 8ze*AQ(&eU, among .<tbe natives. The pro
montories between > Jhese • baysn are excessively
rugged; and the road is so. bad, being composed
of hard; slippery marble i stones*, that, we were
generally dismounted): \fche poomibaggage/* horse
was, scarcely able to proceed* and fell several times.
The natives of Ichuran, to. the number' of seven,
had followed us* either prompted by curiosity to
see, what , we were about, in consequence pf the
enquiries wef had put to them at Corycus, or for
the worse purpose: of robbing us if an opportunity
offered. They were very wild-looking ; people,
and our conductor did not like them. He gave
the musket he. was ; carrying to our Tartar,
and desired; him to- be on the ,- alert, and shoot
the first who. should assault: us. They were,
however, only armed with long*. knives; and: we
were well supplied with fire arms. According to
Strabo and other ancient authors* the inhabitants
of this; country were noted for their piratical ex
cursions in ancient times ; they followed us during
the chief part of the day. In one of the principal
yajlies through which we passed we had observed
five caves; we examined, the two principal, in hopes
of discovering, the Corycian saffron cave, but were

LETTER VI. J <h ASIA MINOR. 521
disappointed.. A 'continuation >ofe very bad road
brought us at last' into an extensi^tapWfia,
'Which, terminates to the south in a long/cfow
promontory, extending far into the sea.9 ^Wten
we descended into the plain, we passed on -our
left the ruins of. a town in a valley. E It agrees
with the situation of Pershendy by Beta^fetet,
iand; we,contented ourselves with his d^taqatigsi
of it, as none of the buildings, except ithTGe© arohts
of an aqueduct, seemed to invite a closdteaixffinli-
nation, or any loss of time. We i-ec^lhuefifilh
the plain to some distance , rjpart of which 'is
ioaltivated with cotton, and beyond it with water
melons*, with a few temporary huts. *.We ujfe-
seajv-ed that the men in this country were employed
in* spinning wool, which is the occupation of the
women in every other part of the Levant; it Was
spaam in thick yarns. < According to Macbean,
quoting Varro, cloth was the manufacture *bf the
country in former times. bmstjh ¦ -m^ttod
oJ The dwellings continued till we Came to^a
morass,* where the. road passes over the rocks close
to tihe edge of the marsh, which extends in some
places as far to the south as the eye can reach,
filled with canes, rushes, &c. Before we quitted the
plain, we passed, at some distance to the left, the
ruins of a large ' building ; part of its walls
remain, and the frame of its door-Way, constructed

522 TRAVELS IN [LETTER VI.
of large stones. About five o'clock' We stopped
for the night near a miserable village; where, by
the edge of the morass, there is a large building
built out of the ahtient ruins ; a foUndatibh re
mains on the other side of the road. '*'" "¦'
' October 24. Proceeding at day-light,' otir
road continued so bad that we were obliged to
lead the horses, but having shortly arrived at
the extremity of the morass* we were enabled
again to enter into the plain, and to mount our
horses. Passing on we came to a small mound
which has the remains of ancient buildings upon
it; on the other side of the road 'were a few
sarcophagi cut in the rock. We next came to an
arm of the Ghiuk Sooyoo river, the ancient Caly-
cadnus ; this river winds extremely; and is by far
the most respectable stream we have seen in
Asia. Three hours' journey from where we slept
brought us to Selefkeh, One of the ancient Seleu-
cias, which we entered, passing over the river by
a bridge of six arches to a small khan. Selefkeh
at present is a poor, miserable village, but in a
fine situation ; the castle stands on the top of a
round hill, at the foot of which is the village,
and' the ruins of the ancient town extending to a
considerable distance. After breakfast we went
to inspect them. We first came to an old brick

LETTER VI.] ASIA^MINOR. 523
ruin of large size, formerly lined with plaster ;
near this, on the S. E. side of the castle hill, has
been a theatre, now only distinguishable by
the shape of the earth, and by two of its
vomitories, at present converted into habita
tions. On the slope where the seats once, ex
isted, tobacco is now cultivated. In the plain
to the eastward are two large buildings; the
first shews nothing but its walls ; the most
distant has been a large Christian church con
structed of solid masonry. The semicircular
eastern end is perfect, and one fluted Corinthian
column in the front is standing.; it may have
been formed out of a more ancient temple.
There are many other indescribable ruins, and to
the west of the theatre, quarries and excavated
tombs. We afterwards ascended a hill south of
the town, having been attracted to it by large
ruins, which we had observed before we reached
Selefkeh. The road we followed has formerly
been paved, and towards the summit cut through
die cliff to some depth. We found ruins covering
a considerable extent of ground; the principal
buildings have been churches, of whieh the
farthest had the east end in tolerable preservation.
The windows were adorned with handsome white
marble columns, of the Corinthian order, one of
which remains perfect. There are a few coarse
sarcophagi, and no less than five large tanks, four

524 TRAVELS IN '' [LETTER VI.
of which we examined ; the first was forty paces
long, by twenty-six wide ; the second, fifty/by
twenty-six ; the third, thirty, by sixteen ; the
roofs of these have fallen in, but some of the
columns which supported the third, remain in
their places; the fourth was 'only nineteen, by
sixteen ; the roof is Vaulted and supported upon
three roWs of four columns each.' From this hill
is a commanding view over the plain, the sea, and
the winding Calycadnus, which suddenly breaks
upon the view from between two Cliffs to the
north of Selef keh. ; ¦'.•>¦¦
Our conductor Was taken ill at this place with
spasms in his stomach ; the beginning of a dis
order with which all oUr party were more"-'br
less afflicted before we reached Chelindreh.
October 25. At sun rise we" Continued' our
course to the westward, having-' with difficulty
prevailed on our conductor to proceed" further.
No animals could be procured in Selefkeh; nor had
we the means of providing ourselves with a vessel
to undertake the journey by sea. The road led
over the hill and through the ruins which we had
visited the preceding day, and thence into the
plain which we followed for about two hours, and
then arrived at some ruins near the sea shore,
where has been" a snlall bridge leading to' them
over a marsh. '"'
The principal' object has the appearance of a

LETTER VI.] ASLA. MINOR... ^25
smaty fortress. ,,, We, ha$ previously crossed adry
torrent*,, near which, were the remains of an
aqueduct. ( We, continued about an hour at this
pjace) breakfasting and examining the ruins, and
^henrproceeded. Quitting th^plain country, and
passing along a rocky coast, we came first tO;,an
extensive necropolis of sarcophagi, cut in th«j. rpe£.
In about an fhpur , more, we came fjOjthe ruins of
another ancient village, and, still farther on to a
bay of the. coast, having a large Turkish fortress
standing on .its western . promontory ; ,to the
south projects a curved isthmus^ and peninsula ;
in the .cove .which it forms lay a polacca brig,
which had come from Egypt with salt,, and, was
taking in wood to return. We conversed wjth
some of, the crew. From hence we, passed into
another; bay .sheltered: by , an island: here jtwo
other vessels were , taking in wood. At tiie head
of , this bay are ruins of. a town, and pf buildings
On the* island. Both these anchorages become
nearly land-locked by the. curved projection of the
point ,Lissam»El Kahpheh. We now ascended a
high bluff, very stony and, oyer grown with firs..
We descended on the opposite side amongst
lfQmantic cliffs and ravines jnto a valley. ;/A,thalf-
past two we stopped for the night, at a small,
source of fresh water, the only one we had seen
since we started. Here an open stage, is placed
for. the accommodation of ^travellers, there being

526 TRAVELS IN [LETTER VI.
no inhabitants inthe neighbourhood. The valley
is inclosed by two high cliffs ; on the top of that
to the right is a ruined building ; there are other
hills to the left, which intercept the view of the
sea. We went on foot ' to examine the building,
leaving our Tartar, servant; and conductor with
the horses. With much difficulty we proceeded- to
the ruin; the ascent was very steep, and in one
instance we were stopped by a perpendicular
precipice; after searching some time we found a
fir tree placed against the rock, by which we
climed up; as we advanced we piled up heaps of
stones to serve as marks for Our return. The
building appeared to be a Turkish castle for the
mortar was 'comparatively fresh. Here- we had
a commanding view of the sea, together With the
island of Cyprus ; seeing some tents and people on a
neighbouring hill, we thought it prudent to retire
quickly, being unarmed, and the natives of these
parts having no good character. We reached our
party at sun-set in a state of violent perspiration :
we supped on rice, Which we had* brought from
Selefkeh, where we had not been able to procure
a fowl. We passed a night of drizzling rain;
wind, thunder, and lightning, in the open air ; we
had all a violent, feverish heat and thirst, which
obliged us to be constantly applying to the
fountain to drink ; and this probably contributed
to increase a disorder in the stomach, with which

LETTER VI.J AS.IA MINOR. 527
we were all more or less afflicted* in consequence,
as we supposed, of the badness of the waters
coupled with our indifferent diet. In the morn
ing the rain increased, but the weather became
serene towards eight o'clock* t
We had. quitted our night's lodgings at seven.
The valley opens at the further end on a ,de@p>
bay of the sea-coast, from whence, in about it wo
hours, we ascended a mountainous and ugly
country, interspersed with fir-trees. The sea
was generally intercepted from our view ; as we
descended,, we qame to a few scattered huts, and
some little cultivated land, with cattle. We
stopped at one of these huts about three in the
aftesrhoon ; the owner of the hut we saw nothing
of, but we got admittance into a very neat little
room, which, together with another containing a
store of straw, and a shed for cattle, formed the
whole building. In the immediate neighbour
hood of these huts are small portions of land,
very neatly cultivated, and threshing grounds,
the whole terraced up with much care and pains,
though now, abandoned for the winter season,
like the cottages in the mountains of Switzerland.
Our servant Luigi's illness increased here consi
derably, and he was in a high fever.
October 27. We advanced at eight, constantly
ascending and descending in a rough mountainous
cpuntry ; we had much difficulty in finding the

528 TRAVELS IN [LETTER VI.
track, for road there was none. Towards three
we came down upon a large plain, beyond which,
at half-past four, we arrived at Chelindreh.
This place, which now only consists of a custom
house, and three or four houses where the
Tartars, from Constantinople, usually embark for
Cyprus, was anciently called Celenderis, some of
the ruins of which remain, principally tombs,
and one square cenotaph, consisting of an open
arch on each side, with Corinthian pilasters, and
pyramidal roof. A bath is also distinguishable.
Two vessels Were lying in its little port, which
has formerly been protected by a large castle on
the point, now much in ruins ; there is a tank
within it. There is no running fresh water within
some distance of Chelindreh ; but there is the
ruin of an aqueduct, which formerly conveyed it
to the town.
October 28. We sent for horses to the nearest
post-house, there being none at Chelindreh ; it
was three hours' distant. When they arrived, we
had some difficulty in settling a bargain as far as
Anamour, but having completed' it for six piastres-
each horse, per day, we were thtojang of pro
ceeding, when the disorder which had attacked all
our party (fever and dysentery) increased among
us in so alarming a degree, that we were obliged
to abandon all thoughts of finishing the tour for
the present, and resolved to hasten to Cyprus for

LETTEIt VI. J ASIA MINOR. 5%9l
medical aid, as we were totally uftpiWided^ with
medicine, or any of those comforts so' requisite in
such an emergency. "'' - i .aqfi* -.,¦*¦
Our guide; in order to obtain relief from his
burning feVer, 'had caused himself to be blooded)
with the" point of a nail sharpened for the pun*"
pbse. "We were all much exhausted bylyingon
the bare grdund; and by -want ' of nourishment,"
for1 We found it impossible to procure even a fowjfo
We had some riee' and biscuit, but' our appetite
was entirely g^n*&^ This unfortunate termination^
ofourjoufney must be attributed, besides the pri
vation of wholesome food, for we had lately eaten
scarcely any thing but rotten biscuit and? dried
beef,' to lying out in damp nights on the ground,
wfth* very1 insufHeient covering, and to the un-
wfieles©tne'! waters which discharge (themselves
into the sea along the coast we traversed, and
which vary Hil* their properties, according to:Hhe
so^s froth whence they flow ; but there was no
choice; and though we-were sometimes ^pprised'of
the baneful qualities of particular streams,- never
theless we were obliged to^ avail ourselves of*them/
Oh 'some occasions we slept on the margin of stag*
naht swamps, Where it was next to' impossible to
escape inhaling disorder from the mal aria of such
situations. It is 'a coast, therefore, where a tra-
•' ' --' ¦ -- M At

530 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. [LETTER VI.
vellef must be fortunate indeed if he escapes
without suffering material injury to his health.
On arriving at Cyprus, the rest of the party
soon recovered, but I was confined to my bed for
fifteen days before I was pronounced out of
danger. I could never have recovered had it not
been for my friend and travelling companion, who
never quitted my bed-side, though the physician
on several occasions refused even to enter my room
until it had been sprinkled with vinegar ; and our
servants would not sleep in the same apartment :
therefore, had it not been for my friend, I should
have been without attendance. While detained
here, we were very sorry to learn that Mr. Bankes
had a severe attack of fever at Yaffa.
Towards the middle of December, as it was
too late to renew our attempts in Karamania,
and we were much enfeebled by illness, we em
barked for Marseilles in a French brig, of one
hundred and twenty tons, and after a passage of
seventy-six days, during constant gales of wind,
we reached that place, where we performed a
quarantine of twenty days, and then proceeded
to Montpellier to recruit our health.

SOME ACCOUNT OP
CUCHUK ALI,
IN
A LETTER

John Barker, Esq. to his Excellency the Earl of Elgin, dated
Aleppo, the 10th. November., 1SOO.

MY LORp, Mr. Manesty has lately informed me that
he had solicited your excellency's attention to
the intimation I made to the honourable com
pany's agent at Constantinople, of the expe
diency of the public Tartars being permitted
fey the Porte . to pass through the territory of
Pay ass on their return to Aleppo from the
capital, instead of being forced to take an indirect
route, whereby the transmission of the honourable
company's correspondence is not only conside
rably retarded, but their packets are likewise
exposed to be damaged, and even lost, by the

532 SOME ACCOUNT OF
messenger being compelled to traverse the Gulf
of Iskenderoon, in very indifferent barks of the
country. Your excellency having recently entered into"
correspondence with the Pashaw of Payass, I
deem it incumbent on me to lay before you a
detailed account of the extraordinary character of
your new correspondent, and my proceedings to
cultivate his good-will for the benefit of the
public service.
While yet at Constantinople, I was admo
nished to beware, in my passage hither, of passing
through the territory of Cuchuk Ali, Governour
of Payass, who had then in his prisons the Dutch
Consul of Aleppo, whom he arrested as he was
returning from the capital, although possessed of
imperial firmans for the exercise of his office at
Aleppo, and at a period that the Porte was in
peace with the Dutch republic.
The proceedings of Cuchuk Ali on this occa
sion will serve to elucidate his character, and
which will be set in a very strong light by the
consideration, that there had for many years
previous to the detention of the person in
question, subsisted between him and the pashaw
habits of the most cordial friendship, and recipro
cation of mutual gifts, according to oriental
customs. r 1;

CUCHUK ALL 533
On the arrival of the Dutch consul at PayasS,
Cuchuk Ali gave orders that he should be put
into chains, and stript of every thing besides the
apparel he wore ; but the pashaw avoided; with
great circumspection, any occasion of coming
to an interview with his prisoner; for it is a
peculiarity worthy of remark, that this tyrant,
whenever he orders a bad action to be committed,
retires from the view of it, and carefully shuts
himself up in a solitary apartment.
The sum fixed for the consul's ransom was
twenty-five thousand piasters, but not being able
to furnish more than seven thousand five
hundred, he underwent, during the space of eight
months, every species of ill treatment. All
means were tried to force him to embrace the
Mahommedan religion, and to extort from him
the money required for his release. To which
ends they would at one time confine him in a
damp dungeon, without light, and often without
•sustenance for four- and twenty hours ; at another
they would i threaten him with immediate exe
cution, and once even, to shew that their menaces
were not wholly nugatory, two innocent wretches
who had been arrested under similar circum
stances with himself, were impaled before him
for having delayed, as he was informed, in pro
ducing the money for their ransom. At length,

534 SOME ACCOUNT OF
fortunately for this poor man, the arrival at
Payass of a caravan from Smyrna, proceeding to
Aleppo, furnished Cuchuk Ali an occasion of
extorting his ransom from the merchants, by
obliging them to advance the money on the bond
Of his prisoner, and then delivered him into their
hands as a slave which he had sold them.
In the year 1789, Mr. Fowles, master of an
English vessel in the harbour of Iskenderoon,
Went with four of his men to water at a place in
the territory of Payass, called Jonas's Pillar^
where they were seized by Cuchuk Ali and
thrown into prison.
A great sum having been required for their
release* before the necessary arrangements could
be made for its payment, the master was driven
by despair to put a period to his existence by
precipitating himself from a high tower in which
they were confined, and all the rest soon after
perished; except a boy of twelve years old* named
Charles Edwards, who was then sent as a
present by Cuchuk Ali to the ^ifore-mentioned
Dutch consul, his late prisoner. I am ignorant
of what steps were taken by the mission at
Constantinople to obtain from the Porte the
necessary satisfaction1 for this act of violence* but
it is certain that none was ever given by its
•savage perpetrator.

CUCHUK ALL 535
Two years after this a French ship from
•Marseilles, richly laden with merchandise for
Aleppo, was, by the captain's ignorance of the
locality of the Bay of Iskenderoon, carried under
the walls of Payass, where the captain with part
of his crew, under the persuasion of being
anchored at Alexandretta,Janded in search of the
consulary establishment, and were conducted to
the governour, who received them with every
mark of hospitality. But while he was enter
taining them with a sumptuous repast, his men
were occupied in taking possession of the vessel,
which he immediately unloaded, and sunk, and
sent the crew by land to the French consul at
Alexandretta. Remonstrances were made by all
the European agents at Aleppo, and in a parti
cular .manner by the pashaw's then intimate
friend the Dutch consul, to whom Cuchuk Ali
replied, "My dear friend, you know very well
" that consistently with the friendship subsisting
" between us* property, and life itself are indif-
" ferent matters ; nay, I swear, by God, that for
" your sake, I would sacrifice my only son
" Dadah; but I entreat you, not todrive me to
" the extremity of denying you that which it is
"< impossible for me to grant."
" My dearest friend, place ? yourself in circum-
'" stances like mine. I am in disgrace witivmy

536 SOME ACCOUNT OF
** sultan without having given just cause for his
"displeasure. I am threatened to be attacked
" from the four quarters of the earth. I am with-
" out money ; I am without means ; and the ever
" watchful providence of the Almighty sends me a
" vessel laden with merchandise. Would you lay
" hold of it or not? I know very well the Franks
"will claim restitution of this property from the
" Sublime Porte* and that is precisely what I
" want, because an opportunity will then be af-
-" forded for soliciting my pardon."
On the receipt of this letter, all hope of re
covering any thing by amicable overtures being
vanished, the French consul made application to
his superior at Constantinople and obtained several
imperial commands on the subject. Three cara-
vellas were likewise sent to Payass to enforce
Cuchuk Ali's obedience. , He retired to his moun
tains; the caravellas fired a few guns against an
empty hut and a ruined fortress, and in a very
short time having consumed their stock of pro
visions, they gladly accepted such as were ten
dered them by Cuchuk Ali, who soon obtained,
through the customary means of liberal presents
of French watches, and of fine French cloths,
the good will of the commanders of the expe
dition sent against him. Such was the satisfac-
faction at the rebel's munificence, that they not

CUCHUK ALI. 537
only? contracted with him engagements of great
private friendship, but even awarded him their
intercession in his favour with the Porte ; and the
dignity of an additional tail was conferred upon
;him on that occasion, with a fresh order, pro
forma, for the restitution of the property. In
-compliance with which order, Cuchuk Ali wrote
to the Frehch consul at Aleppo, that he was
ready to obey the commands of the Sultan, but,
¦that the cargo of the ship in question having
been converted into use, he offered in compensa
tion,, as an equivalent, to make over to the propri
etors of the goods, sundry plantations belonging
to him in the territory of Payass.
¦" The Porte has on various other occasions sent
jpashaws with great forces to subdue this rebel,
:but whether; owing to the natural barriers that
are formed by the high craggy mountains, covered
withthick woods; wherein he takes refuge, or to
the species- of accommodation above described, the
Porte' has never been able to subdue, him, during
forty years' existence, in open contempt of its
authority. This man, in the early part of his life,
was a simple bandit inhabiting the mountains of
Payass, at which time that place was a populous
and flourishing town of trade. -
Cuchuk Ali laid the foundation of his present
power by making nocturnal excursions from the

538 SOME ACCOUNT OF
mountains to rob the gardens in the vicinity of
Payass. Some gardeners, in order to be exempted
from these depredations, began: by stipulating to
pay a trifling annual tribute; others entered into
similar engagements, and from a rotolo of coffee,
or a few rotolos of rice, the whole town became
at length compelled to furnish a .stated contribu
tion. Cuchuk Ali become head of a band of
forty or fifty robbers, now aspired to render
himself t master of the place. He began by way
laying the chiefs of the principal families, and in
the course of a few years he succeeded in exter
minating every individual of such as possessed
any power at Payass, or in its vicinity; One person
only of those unfortunate families whose adhe
rents he could neither subdue by open force, nor
corrupt by bribery, for some time contended with
him for supreme authority, till at length Cuchuk
Ali, having lulled his suspicion of treachery by
giving him his daughter in marriage, murdered
him with his own hand, and has often been
heard to warn his own children of a male infant
proceeding from that marriage, counselling them
to crush the crocodile in the egg, lest he should
one day revenge on them the blood of his father.
Cuchuk Ali with a very inconsiderable number of
dependants, which do not, lam well informed,
exceed two hundred men, has by a system of the

CUCHUK ALI- $S&
most barbarous cruelty for many years past, im
pressed terror on the minds of the people of this
neighbourhood, and given much disquietude to the
Porte, between whom and the rebel there exists
a reciprocal desire to be on a footing of friend
ship, founded on mutual advantages, which ever
prevents their continuing long on terms of osten-
sive hostility. Cuchuk Ali's territorial, government
may naturally be supposed such as to afford him
but very slender means of drawing wealth from
the miserable wretches inhabiting his dominions;
his revenues proceed therefore in a great measure
from the casual passage of travellers through his
territory, whom he lays under such kind of con
tribution as he thinks they would rather bear*
than be obliged, by not coming to him, to
take a very incommodious route. Sometimes
his rapacity and natural brutal inclinations lead
him to exceed the bounds he means to prescribe
to his impositions, when the Porte declares its
displeasure, forbidding travellers to pass through
Payass, and thus, as soon as the rebel finds his
coffers in need of fresh supplies, the Porte
succeeds in forcing him to supplicate for his par
don, which is seldom long withheld, on account of
the Porte's necessity of procuring a safe passage
for the grand annual caravan of pilgrims from
Constantinople to Mekka, who are obliged either

540 SOME ACCOUNT OF
to pass by Payass, or make a very disagreeable
and expensive journey through the mountains'of
Armenia. When this caravan comes into Cuchuk Ali's
territory, it yields him a very considerable revenue,
for he taxes every individual according to his own
caprice, but, however, always upon the system
above described. On its approach to Payass,
Cuchuk Ali sends some of his household to com
pliment on his arrival the chief of the caravan, a
personage of great distinction, who dismisses the
rebel's emissaries with presents for him. Horses
are presented which Cuchuk Ali sends back, with
a hint that they would be preferred when com
pletely accoutred in all the usual gold, and silver, -
trappings. They are then again presented to the
rebel in that form. In short, much time passes
in negotiating and stipulating the' precise tri
bute required; and wheU at length the measure
of his rapacity is filled up, the caravan is per
mitted to proceed on its journey.
In order the better: to dispose the pilgrims, for
his extortion, Cuchuk Ali is always careful to,
prepare for them, as a beacon of his power and his, ,
cruelty, the spectacle of two bodies impaled, trans
fixed on the gate of Payass. It happened, a few
years ago, that his prisons were empty when the
caravan of Mekka was approaching Payass ; the.

CUCHUK ALI. 541
rebel was somewhat puzzled at so unusual an
obstacle, and he imparted his embarrassments to
a convivial companion. " The caravan," says he,
" will be here to-morrow, and we have not yet
prepared the customary execution. Look ye,
pick me out two from among my servants." His
friend expostulated, and while he Was endeavour
ing to avert his design, by assuring him that every
thing would proceed in due order without the
formality in question, CUchuk Ali, Still ruminating
and stroking his beard, exclaimed; " I have it, go
fetch Yacoob the Christian, he has been for four
months in bed sick of a fever, he can never re
cover :" the poor wretch was instantly dragged
from his bed, impaled, hung up, in terrorem, and
served to impress the pilgrims with infinitely
greater horror and alarm than if the bodies of ten
malefactors had been exposed to their view.
When it is considered that the forces of the
wretch, who is the subject of this narrative, do not
exceed two hundred armed men, it becomes a
matter of surprise, even to those who are well ac
quainted with the impotency of this government,
that such a bandit should have so long braved the
controul of the Porte.
He is perfectly conscious of his own weakness,
and the little arts he puts in practice to conceal
it are characteristic and curious. Whenever any

542 SOME ACCOUNT OF
personage of distinction comes into. his territory*
Which is; inaccessible but through immense woods ;
in order to deceive the new comer in an estimation
of his forces, he disposes his men in the thickets,
so as to pass in review like soldiers in theatrical
scenery: Thus the reports of an ocular witness
become fallacious, and the power of Cuchuk Ali
is' extolled and exaggerated all over the Turkish
dominions. He has fabricated a cordon of buildings along the
eminences of his mountains, which appears, from
far, like towers, and are even reported to be as
many Castles. They are in reality nothing else
than little rude edifices, composed of two thirds of
mud and one third of chalk, which a night's heavy
rain frequently damages. Cuchuk Ali is, however,
prompt to repair them, and they continue to in
spire with dread, the traveller who is compelled
to approach them.
Such is the character of the being whom I have
found means to propitiate, whereby, during
eighteen months that I have been honoured with
the management of the Honourable East-India
Company's concern at Aleppo, I have procured
the secure transit through Payass of upwards of
thirty Tartars, charged with conveying their cor
respondence from this place to Constantinople; and
though I cannot flatter myself with the hopes of

CUCHUK ALI. 543
turning my possession of the rebel's good-will to
so great an advantage as that of engaging him to
restore the groups of eighty thousand piasters
which he has seized belonging to British depen
dents, I esteem, it a very great happiness, to have
accelerated the transmission of every packet com
mitted to my care* at least three days ; as it is
evident the Tartars' journies would necessarily have
been prolonged that time, and often, in the want
of boats wherewith to traverse the Gulf of Isken-
derOon, much longer, if I had not cultivated the
friendship of the Governour of Payass, in order to
secure their free passage through his territory, ,
I have the honour to be,
&c. &c. &c. &c.
(Signed) JOHN BARKER.

NOTES AND
SCRIPTURAL REFERENCES.

Note Page
!¦ 14- — Some remove the land-marks. — Job, xxiv. 2.
2. 31. — Whoso sheddeth man's blood, by man shall
his blood be shed.— Genesis, ix. 6.
3. 33. — If we go, what shall we bring the man? there
is not a present; what have we? — 1 Samuel,
ix. 7.
4. 60. — The revenger of blood himself shall slay the
murderer. — Numbers, xxxv. 19.  Ye shall
take no satisfaction for the life of a mur-;
derer. — 31.
5. 75. — They cried out and cast off their clothes, and
threw dust into the air. — Acts., xxii. 23.
6. 172. — And the people took their dough before it was
leavened, their kneading troughs being bound
up in their clothes upon their shoulders. —
Exodus, xii. 34.
7. 172. — And, behold, there was a cake bakea on the
coals. — 1 Kings, xix. 6.
8. 173. — Shall inhabit the parched places in the wilder
ness, in a salt land, and not inhabited. —
Jeremiah, xvii. 6.
9. 174.— They that are delivered from the noise of archers
in the places of drawing water. — Judges, v. 1 1 .
10. 178. — She being desolate shall sit on the ground. —
Isaiah, iii. 26.
11. 179. — And Samson lay till midnight, and arose at
midnight and took the doors of the gate of the
city, and the two posts, and went away with
them, bar and all. — Judges, xvi. 3.
N N

546 NOTES.
Note Pugc
12. 184. — For ye are like unto whited sepulchres, which
indeed appear beautiful outward, but are within
full of dead men's bones. — Matthew, xxiii. 27.
IS. 216. — As the cold of snow in the time of harvest. —
Proverbs, xxv. 13.
14 217. — They are wet with the showers in the mountains,
and embrace the rock for want of a shelter. —
Job, xxiv. 8.
15. 241. — In the name of our God we will set up our
banners. — Psalm xx. 5.
16. 241.— In that day shall there be upon the bells of the
horses, Holiness unto the Lord. — Zechariah,
xiv. 20.
17- 243. — Concerning Damascus. Hamah is confounded. —
Jeremiah, xlix. 23.
1 8. 257. — The wrath of a king is as messengers of death. —
Proverbs, xvi. 14.
19. 25S. — And ram-skins dyed red. — Exodus, xxv. 5.
20. 260. — For the king of Israel is come out to seek a flea,
as when one doth hunt a partridge in the moun
tains. — 1 Samuel, xxvi. 20.
21. 262. — Greet ye one another with a kiss of charity. —
1 Peter, v.- 14.  And poured it upon his
head and kissed him. — 1 Samuel, x. 1.
22. 263. — Butter and honey shall he eat — Isaiah, vii. 15. •
23. 263. — He worshipped the Lord, bowing himself to the
earth. — Genesis, xxiv. 52.
24. 264. When I lift up my hands toward thy holy oracle.
— Psalm, xxviii. 2.
25. 266. — Also Vashti, the queen, made a feast for the
women in the royal house. — Esther, i. 9.
26. 266. — Thirty milch camels with their colts. — Genesis,
xxxii. 15.
27. 274. — And put them in the camels' furniture. — Genesis,
xxxi.34.

NOTES. 547
Note Pajc
2S. 275.— Neither let me give flattering titles unto man.
For I know not to give flattering titles — Job,
xxxii. 21, 22.
29. 275. — If I and my cattle drink of thy water, then I
will pay thee for it. — Numbers, xx. 19.
30. 275. — Who can stand before his cold. — Psalm, cxlvii.
17.
31. 275. — Feed me, I pray thee, with that same red pot
tage. Then Jacob gave Esau bread and
pottage of lentiles. — Genesis, xxv. 30, 34.
32. 276. — The boar out of the wood doth waste it. — Psalm,
lxxx. 13.
33. 278. — Except they wash they eat not. — Mark, vii. 4.
34. 278, — And she took flour, and kneaded it, and made
cakes in his sight, and did bake the cakes. —
2 Samuel, xiii. 8.
35. 279. — The wilderness yieldeth food for them and for
their children. — Job, xxiv. 5.
36. 281. — They that dwell in the wilderness shall bow
before him.— Psalm, lxxii. 9.
37. 282. — And pursued them to Hobah, which is on the
left hand of Damascus. — Genesis, xiv. 15.
3S. 291.— A city that is set on a hill cannot be hid. — Mat
thew, v. 14.
39. 295. — And he said unto them, cast the net on the right
side of the ship.— They cast therefore, and
now they were not able to draw it for the
multitude of fishes. — John, xxi. 6.
40. 296. — And they arrived at the country of the Gada-
renes, which is over against Galilee. — Luke,
viii. 26.
41. 297- — Neither abode in any house, but in the tombs.
— Luke, viii. 27-
42. 301.— And they fastened his body to the wall of
Bethshan. — 1 Samuel, xxxi. 10.

548 NOTES.
Note Page
43. 303. For we have treasures in the field, of wheat, and
of barley, and of oil, and of honey. — Jeremiah,
xli. 8.  The seed is rotten under their clods,
the garners are laid desolate, the barns are
broken down, for the corn is withered. — Joel,
i. 17.
44. 305. — And the ravens brought him bread and flesh in
the morning, and bread and flesh in the even
ing, and he drank of the brook. — 1 Kings,
xvii. 6. ,
45. 306. — Adjeloun is mentioned in Joshua, x. 12. 
Sun, stand thou still upon Gibeon, and thou,
Moon, in the valley of Ajalon.  It ap
pears, however, on referring -to 2 Chronicles,
xi. 10. that Aijalon was in the land of Judah,
which was on the other side of the Jordan.
46. 306.— The five kings are found hid in a cave at
Makkedah. — Joshua, x. 17.
47. 306.— A high hill as the hill of Bashan. — Psalm, lxviii.
15.
48. 320. — Also he built towers in the desert. — 2 Chronicles,
xxvi. 10.
49. 321. — And the stone wall thereof was broken down.—
Proverbs, xxiv. 31.
50- 326. — And Joshua set up twelve stones in the midst of
Jordan, in the place where the feet of the
priests which bare the ark of the covenant
stood ; and they are there unto this day. —
Joshua, iv. 9.
51. 327.— They are wet with the showers in the moun
tains, and embrace the rock for want of a
shelter — Job, xxiv. S.
52. 341.— And they shall go into the holes of the rocks
and into the caves of the earth. — Isaiah, ii.
19.

NOTES. 549
Note Page
53. 341 — He built even Bethlehem, and Etam, and Tekoa.
— 2 Chronicles, xi. 6.
54 . 342. — A vineyard in a very fruitful hill ; and he built a
tower in the midst of it. — Isaiah, v. 1,2.
55. 342. — Now Hebron was built seven years before Zoan
in Egypt. — Numbers, xiii. 22.
56. 342. — And Sarah died in Rirjath-arba ; the same is
Hebron. — Genesis, xxiii. 2. There they buried
Isaac and Rebecca his wife, and there I buried
Leah. — Genesis, xlix. 31.
57. 374. — And the stone wall thereof was broken down.
— Proverbs, xxiv. 31.
58. 380.— Greet ye one another with a kiss of charity. —
1 Peter, v. 14.
59. 380. — Now those that sealed were, &c. &c. Hallohesh.
Pileha, Shobek, &c. — Nehemiah, x. 24.
60. 384. — Neither will we drink of the water of the wells.
— Numbers, xx. 17-
61. 385. — If a man vow a vow, or swear an path, he shall
not break his word. — Numbers, xxx. 2.
62. 393. — And Moses sent messengers from Kadesh unto
the King of Edom, thus saith thy brother Israel,
behold we are in Kadesh, a city in the uttermost
of thy border :
Let us pass, I pray thee, through thy coun
try : we will not pass through the fields, or
through the vineyards, neither will we drink
of the water of the wells: we will go by the
king's high way, we will not turn to the right
hand nor to the left, until we have passed thy
borders. And Edom said unto him, thou shalt not
pass by me, lest I come out against thee with
the sword.
And the children of Israel said unto him,
we will go by the high way : and if I and my

550 NOTES.
Note Page cattle drink of th'y water, then I will pay for its
I will only, without doing any thing else, go
through on my feet.
And he said, thou shalt not go through. And
Edom came out against him with much people,
and with a strong hand.
Thus Edom refused to give Israel passage
through his border : wherefore Israel turned
away from him.
And the children of Israel, even the whole
congregation, journeyed from Kadesh, and
came unto mount Hor.— Numbers, xx. 14 —
"22.
63. 393. — And Aaron died there, in the top of the mount.
— Numbers, xx. 28.
64. 393. — The women came out of all the cities of Israel,
singing and dancing. — 1 Samuel, xviii. 6.
65. 394. — For by wise counsels thou shall make thy wars.
Proverbs, xxiv. 6.
66. 394. — Forsook the counsel of the old men  1 Kings,
xii. 8.
67. 395. — And behold Saul lay sleeping within the trench,
and his spear stuck in the ground. — 1 Samuel,
xxvi. 7-
68. 397. — If thieves came to thee, if robbers by night, &c.
— Obadiah, 5.
69. 397- — Ye are spies. — Genesis, xlii. 9.
70. 402. — And he built towers in the desert  2 Chronicles,
xxvi. 10.
71- 415. — Flocks shall lie down in the midst of her; all the
beasts of, the nations, both the cormorant and
the bittern shall lodge in the upper lintels
thereof. — Zephaniaht ii. 14.
72. 423. — O thou that dwellest in the clefts of the rock.
— Jeremiah, xlix. 16.

NOTES, 551
Note Page
73. 426. — He that heweth him out a sepulchre on high,
and that graveth an habitation for himself in a
rock. — Isaiah, xxii. 16.
74. 433 — Take Aaron and Eleazar his son, and bring them
up unto mount Hor. And Moses stripped
Aaron of his garments and put them upon
Eleazar his son ; and Aaron died there on the
top of the .mount. — Numbers, xx. 25, 28. 
And the children of Israel took their journey
from Beeroth of the children of Jaakan, to
Mosera ; there Aaron died, and there he was
buried. — Deuteronomy, x. 6.
But after the army (that had so long
mourned the dead sister of the general) were
thus purified, he led them through the desert,
into Arabia; and arriving in a place (which
the Arabians account for their metropolitan
city, in times past called Arce, and at this
present, Petra) which is environed with a high
mountain, Aaron ascended the said moun
tain, and Moses shewed him the plaoe where
he should yield up his soul unto. God ; and
in the sight of all the army standing on a high
place, he put off his stoale, and gave it to his
son Eleazer, to whom, by eldership, the suc
cession appertained; and thus, in the sight of
the people, he died in that very year wherein
he lost his sister, in the one hundred and thirty-
third year of his age, in the month of August.
Vide Josephus' Antiquities, book iv. ch. 4.
75. 436.— Whatshall be thetrespass offering.— 1 Samuel,v\A.
7C. 437. — Loose thy shoe from off thy foot, for the place
whereon thou standest is holy. — Joshua, v. 15. ,
77. 439. — Edom shall be a desolation. — Jeremiah, xlix. 17-
— See Ezekiel, xxxv. and xxxvi.
78. 413. — She had strong rods for the sceptres of them that
bare rule. — Ezekiel, xix. 11.

552 NOTES.
Note Page
79. 453. — The whole land thereof is brimstone and salt,&c.
— Deuteronomy, xxix. 23.
80. 456. — They violently take away flocks, and feed thereof.
They take the widow's ox for a pledge. — Job,
xxiv. 2, 3.
81. 458. — Drink waters out of thine own cistern.— Pro
verbs, v. 15.
82. 463. — Thou shalt set thee up great stones, and plaster,
them with plaster ; and thou shalt write upon
them all the words of this law. — Deuteronomy,
, xxvii. 2, 3.
82. 463. — And the border went up to the stone of Bohan.
— Joshua, xv. 6.
83. 470. — And Saul went out to meet him that he might
salute him. — 1 Samuel, xiii. 10.
84. 470. — An old man cometh up ; and he is covered with
a mantle. — 1 Samuel, xxviii. 14.
85. 470. — I have seen a son of Jesse the Bethlehemite,
that is cunning in playing. — 1 Samuel, xvi. 18.
86. 471. — Medeba is noticed in Numbers, xxi. 30. 
And we have laid them waste unto Nophah,
which reacheth unto Medeba.  And in Isaiah,
xv. 2. Moab shall howl over Nebo, and over
Medeba.
87. 472.-—He reached her parched corn, and she did eat.
— Ruth, ii. 14.
88. 472. — And behold, seven ears of corn came up upon one
stalk ! and in the seven plenteous years the
earth brought forth by handfuis. — Genesis, xli.
5,47.
89. 473. — Let us slay him and cast him into some pit.
— Genesis, xxxvii.20.
90. 475. — Took his two wives, &c. and passed over the
ford Jabbok. — Genesis, xxxii. 22.— —Nor
unto any place of the river Jabbok. — Deutero
nomy, ii. 37.  And the border even unto the
river Jabbok. — Deuteronomy, iii. 16.— —Even

NOTES. 553
Note Page unto the river Jabbok, which is the border of
the children of Ammon. — Joshua, xii. 2.
92. 481. — And he hasted to dress it. — Genesis, xviii. 7-
93. 481. — Thou shalt not seethe a kid in his mother's milk.
— Exodus, xxiii. 19. xxxiv. 26. — Deuteronomy,
xiv. 21.
94. 4S1. — And of the fat thereof. — Genesis, iv. 4.  Jose-
sphus says, " it was milk."  Antiquities, b.
i. c. ii. sect. 1.  And as we have it here used,
the milk certainly contained the fat and sub
stance of the meat.
95. 481. — She brought forth butter in a lordly dish-
— Judges, v. 25.
96. 482. — He that dippeth his hand with me in the dish
— Matthew, xxvi. 23.
97- 483. — And thou dost dwell among scorpions.
— Ezekiel, ii. 6.
98. 483. — And all the women whose heart stirred them up
in wisdom spun goats hair — Exodus, xxxv.
26.
99. 434 — And he made curtains of goats hair. — Exodus,
xxxvi. 14.
100. 485. — Concerning the tithe of the herd, or of the flock.
— Leviticus, xxvii. 32.
101. 494. — And it came to pass in Iconium that they went
both together into the synagague of the Jews,
and so spake that a great multitutude both of
the Jews and also of the Greeks believed. —
Acts, xiv. 1.

INDEX
TO THE PLACES VISITED.

THE ANCIENT NAMES ARE IN ITALICS.

A.
Aaron's Tomb, 432, 435.
Abou Soliman's tomb, 378.
Abraham, house of, 342.
Achzih, Zib. 196.
Acre, Accho, 105, 497.
Acoujah, 373.
Adjeloun, 307.
Aggi Dengis, lake, 230.
Ain el Frangee, 446.
Ak Shehr, 492.
Alaks, plain, 231.
Al-baid (well), 348.
Aleppo, 231.
Amatha, ruins, 297.
Amman, Rabbath Ammon, VJb.
Anamour, Cape, 528.
Antinoe, 163.
Antioch, Antakia, 229.
Aphroditopolis, site, 135.
Appolinoplis magna, 127.
Arimalhea, Ramla, 184.
Armada, 94.
Arrag-el-Emir, Hircan's p. 473.
Arethusia, 234.
Arsouf, Appollunias, 189.
Arti-musshut, tomb, 370.
Ascanius, lake, 4go.
Asdoud, Azotus, 179-
Asphaltes, lake, 45g.
Assuan, Syent, 118.
Athan, village, 322.

Athlite, village, 190.
Aukullah, 513.
Ayash, 513.

B.

Baalbec, 214.
Backwater, Dead Sea, 353, 450.
Bait Forage, 328.
Batroun, Botrys, 206.
Bayga, valley of, 320.
Bayruth, Berytus, 202.
Beit Kerm, ruins, 458.
Bekaa Mathooalis, 212.
Belus, river, 192.
Bendick, 489.
Beshiri village, 109.
Bethlehem, 339.
Bilejik, 491.
Blanco, Cape, 197.
Boulack, port of Cairo, 162.
Bourkee, ruins, 230.
Bulwudun, Polylotom, 492.
Bsaida, Ipseyra, 376.
Bysan, Scythopolis, 301.

C.

Cafringee, 306.
Caiffa, Hepha, 192.
Cairo, 151, 158.

55G

INDEX.

Calirrhoe, valley of, 467.
Callah-el-Hammam, 299.
Callah-el-Rubbat, 3.06.
Calycadnus, river, 522.
Candele, village, 224.
Carmel, mount, 193.
Carnack, 137.
Castel Pelegrino, 192.
Castle Jeba, 201,.
Cataract, second, 20.
Cedars of Lebanon, 209.
Cesarea, 189.
Chelindreh, Celenderis, 524.
Cilicia Campestris, boundary,510..
Contra Latopolis, site, 135.
Corycus, ruins, 519.
Cydnus, 502.
Cynopolis, site, 155.
Cyprus, 526, 530.

D.
Daboude, temple, 105.
Damascus, ,282.
Daphne, site of, 225.
Dead Sea, tour, 331. <
Dekki, temple, 98.
Derry, 11, 92.
Dettrass, ruins, 372.
Dgellgood, site, 870.
Dgebail, Sheikh, 286.
Dher, tombs, 466.
Dibdeba, village, 886.
Diban, Dibon, 462.
Djebal, Attarous, 464.
Djebal, village, 375.
Djerash, ruins, 308, 317, 475.
Djibel Selsilis, mountains, 126.

E.
Ebsambal, small temple, 28.
. large temple, 37.
Eden, village; 209.
Edfoo, Appolinopolis magna, 127.
Elabahn, volcanic mass, 375.
El Ahsa or Hussan,river,355,357.
El Arish, 173.
El Assel, river, 359.
El Bered, or Coldriver, 219.
El Cab, Eleethias, 130.
El Darrah or Dara, river, 359.
Elephantina, island, 123.
El Gaig, ruins, 378.
El Hagre, ruins, 376.
El Ibrim, river, Adonis, 205.
El Kasab, river, I89.
El Kelb, river, 203.
El Leban, river, 203.
El Mulk, river, 220.
El Petras, river, I89.
Elpha, 22.
El Rubin, river, 182.
El Sazib, riyer, 203.
El Zowar, 354.
Erbed village, 299.
Erkle, orEllegria, Heraclea, 498, ,
Erment, Her won lis, 135.
Ersek, 48Q.
Escol, torrent, 179.
Esdier village, 177.
Esdredon, plain, 478.
Eski, Shehr, .Dorylamm, 49 1 .
Esneh, Latopolis, 134.
Eugen, village, 307.
F.
Farras, village, 16, 18.

INDEX.

557

G.

Gaobin village, 48g.
Garbe Dendour, temple, 100.
Garbe Girshe, temple, 99.
Garbe Merie, 101.
Gaza, 178,
Gebail, convent, 205.
Gennesaret, lake, 293.
Gerasa or Pella, 476.
Gerizim, Mount, 32g.
Gesir Adid, 230.
Gharundel, Arindela, 376.
Ghiuk Sooyor, R.Calycadnus,522.
Ghiviza, Lyttssa, 489.
Ghor, 483.
Ghorneys, village, 44g.
Gilhad Gilhood, village, 322.
Gourna tombs, 137.
Granite quarries, 1 19.

H.

Ibrim, Primnis, 13.
Ilgum, Philomelium, 493.
Ipseyra, Bsaida, 443.
Ichuran, 519.
Isalu, 492.
Isnik, or Tchinisli, Nicova, 490.

J.
Jabok, river, 319, 475.
Jacob's bridge, 286.
Jaffa, Joppa, 184.
Jamnia, Yabne, 182.
Jebilee, Gdbala, 224.
Jellaheen's camp, 342.
Jericho, camp near, 330.
Jerusalem, 329.
Jonas's Pillar, 534.
Jordan, river, 289, 325, 329.

Hallawye, 305.
Hamah, Epiphaneia, 243.
Hamahta or Mote, site, 371.
Haneunis, village, 175,
Hariatoon, ruins, 340.
Hebron, Kiriath 'Aria, 311,342.
Hermopolis, 153.
Herodium, rums/ 464.
Heshban or. Heshbon, 471.
Hindaw, 104.
Hircan, palace of, 473.
Homs, Emesa, 254, 276.
Howeeh, site, 370.
Hot Springs, Yarmack, 298.
Houarti, 153.
Houle, Lake, 290.

K.
Kaffer Baiter, ruins, 328.
Kalapsche, temple, 5, 101.
Kali-Phee, 391.
Karabignar, 4g5.
Karamaniaj coast, 502.
Kasmia, river, 198.
Katty, village, 312, 315.
Kavdas or Abouli, river, 208.
Kazalu, road to, 506.
Kerek, 36l, 444, 456.
Khadun Khan, 493.
Khanzyre, 444.
Khosru Khan, 491.
Kiriath Aria, Hebron, 311.

558

INDEX.

Kishon, river, ig4.
Kisdervent, 490.
Kolinkboaz, 501.
Konieh, Iconium, 494.
Koroskoff, 9.
Koum Ombo, Ombos, 123.

L.
Labyrinth, 34p.
Ladik, Laodiceia Combusta, 4g4.
Latachia or Latakia, Laodicea,
222.
Latmus, river, 513.
Latopolis, Esneh, 134.
Lebanon, 210.
Lefke, 491.
Lehaddineh Hinde, 391.
Lissan el Kahpeh, 525.
Locusts, 443.
Loudd, Lydda, 184.
Lourdee, 224.
Lybian Mountains, 146.
Luxor, 137, 147, 14g.

Markab, village, 222.
Marrowhich, site, 370.
Marseilles, 530.
Mataria, Hetiopolis, I67.
Mayn, ruins, 464.
Medinet Aboo, 147.
Memnonium, temples at, 147.
Mockatem grottos, 131.
Mons Regalis, 380.
Mount Carmel, ig3.
Mount Cassius, 224.
Mount Hor, 433.
Mount Lebanon, 20g.
Mount Nebo, 464.
Montpellier, 530.
Mummy pits, 142.
Musshuttomb, 371.

N.
Nablous, Sichem, 328.
Nebi Aaroon, 388.
Nebi Hood, village, 313.
Nicomedia, 489.

M.

O.

Mackad, site, 370.
Madeba, Medaba, 471.
Madfuni, 140.
Madjdala, village, 291.
Mahannah's camp, 260.
Mahanna, ruins, 370.
Majdil, Magdala, 299.
Majudal, village, 179.
Makkedah, cave, 306.
Mansouria, island', 126.
Marah, 242.

Offidena, temple, 97.
Olukooshlah, 499.
Ombos, Koum Ombo, 123.
Om Keis, Gadara, 297.
Oom-i-Rasass, 471.
Orontes, river, 225.-

Panias, Caaarea Philippi, 289.

INDEX.

559.

Palmyra, ruins, Tedmor, 267.
Payass, 531.
Pella or Gerasa, 317, 476.
Pelusium, 171.
Petra, 405.
Phiala, lake, 287.
Philae, 1, 106.
Pompeiopolis, ruins, 508, 510,
Pyramids, 156, 406.

R.
Rabba, Rabbath Moab, 457-
Radimore, 164.
Rajib, Ragaba, 47,8.
Ramla, Arimathea, 184.
Rastan, village, 254.
Reashy, 313-
Rhoda, island, 162.
Ruad, Aradus, island, 220.

S.
Sabour, temple, 95.
Safot, 291.
Saida, Sidon, 199.
Sammack, 385.
Sasa, village, 285.
Scorpion, rock, 300.
Scutari, 487-
Selahieh, village, 169.
Selefkeh, Seleucia, 522*
Semmack, 296.
Sermein, 240.
Sepulchres of Petra, 428,.
Shedelah, 513.
Shekune, khan, 343.
Sheikh Daoud, tomb, 304.

Sheikh Harn, 45g.
Sheikh Jaffa, tomb, 371.
Shobek, 378, 380.
Shuhut, 491.
Sidi Gazi, 491.
Siout, 153.
Sipheer, village, 342.
Solomon's pool, 340.
Souf, village, 307.
St. Simon, ruins, 231.
-Suadeah, Seleucia, 227.
Surugees (hostlers), 498.
Syene, Assuan, 9.
Szalt, Amathus or Machazrus, 321.

T.
Tab aria, Tiberias, 295.
Tabathat FahkiL 304.
Tafyle, village, 444.
Takehur, post-house, 500.
Tarichea, walls of, 300.
Taurus, mount, 499.
Tchinisli or Isnik, Nicosa, 4g0.
Tedmor, village, Palmyra, 267.
TefFa, temples, 103.
Tehene, village, 154.
Tekoa, ruins, 341.
Temple of the Sun, Djerash,
317.
Temple of theSun,Palmyra,269.
Temseida, castle, 206.
Tentyra, temple, 151.
Terra Santa, Damascus, 282.
Tersoos, Tarsus, 502.
Thebes, 137, 149.
Tiberias, 300.
Tomb of Jacob, 294.
Tortosa, walls of, 220.

5G0
Tortura, Dora, 190.
Touman, khan, 2.40.
Tourneen, 231.
Tripoli, 206.
Tsour, Tyre, 197.
Tyana, 498.
Tyrian's ladder, 197.

Vermin, 485.

V.

W.

Wady el Ahsa, 373, 444.
-  'Modjeb, Arnon, 460.
— — Mousa, 402.
 Zeit, 327.

INDEX. -Wady Wale, 462. ,
Y.
Yabne, Jamnia, 182,
Yarmack, hot springs, 298.
Yead, village, 214.
Z.
Zeit, Wady, 327.
Zerka, river, Jabbok, 3ig, 475.
Zerka, river, 100.
Zerka Mayn, torrent, 466.
Zib Achzib, ig6.
Zoar, site of, 448.

THE END.

T. White & Co. Piinieis,
I'.iu' Atlev, London.

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