TEN YEARS
IN
0 E E a 0 I

TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES
of
DOCTOR E. WHITE AND LADY,
WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS ;

WITH
INCIDENTS OF TWO SEA VOTAGES VIA. SANDWICH
ISLANDS AROUND CAPE HORN:

CONTAINING, ALSO, A
BETEF HISTOEY OF THE MISSIONS AND SETTLEMENT OF THE COUNTET  OKI
GIN OF THE PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT  NUMBEE AND CUSTOMS OF
THE INDIANS — INCIDENTS "WITNESSED -WHILE TRAVERSING
AND RESIDING IN THE TERRITORY  DESCRIPTION OF
THE SOU., PRODUCTION AND CLIMATE.

COMPILED BT MISS A. J. ALLEN.

ITHACA, N. T.:
PRESS OF ANDRUS, GAUNTLETT, & CO.

1850.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1848,
by Elijah White, in the oflice of the Clerk of the District
Court of the Northern District of New York.

83feAV>

J3>w.v^ .

INTRODUCTION.
Some admirers of solid reading say, with regretful sighs,
and doleful faees, that the day of stable, instructing litera
ture isTsuperseded by that of trashy novels, romances, etc.,
tending to corrupt the mind and principles. Formerly, the
tables of even the fashionable were strown with volumes de
signed not only to amuse, but to elevate, edify, and contrib
ute to the truly intellectual enjoyment of their readers instead
of those fostering vitiated tastes and sullying youthful minds,
with whieh they insist our shelves are now cumbered. They
mourn over the degeneracy in this of our otherwise " age of
improvement," and not rightly judging the true cause, al
most wish, from the evils which have arisen from this, that
the noble art of printing had remained undiscovered.
But, dear friends, do not shake your head in such grave
disapproval of the above apparently ironical paragraph. In
part, I do agree with you. There does seem to have been
a sad falling off from the pure healthful taste of former days,
when a volume of true poetry, or a treatise on a sensible
subject could be read with real zest and enjoyment. It is
too true, that many works are now forced upon us detailing
scenes too highly wrought, exciting and dissipating to the
mind, and presenting pictures tending to nourish a depraved
moral hunger. In their places we should have productions
divested of frivolous imaginings, wild speculations, and false
sentimentalism ; and I can not believe that our tastes are so
vitiated that such we could not appreciate and duly value-
There are real scenes of sorrow and pleasure even in this

VI INTRODUCTION.
common-place, plodding world of ours, which, if properly
pictured, would absorb and interest without turning the
mind into an enervating or immoral channel. However, I
do not carry condemnation of fiction to the extreme that I
would banish it altogether. Certain European novelists may
write a pure sentiment. Arthur — who would condemn his
truthful, home-like tales to the shade ! Our noble Mrs. Ste
vens, enchanting us of a summer evening with her rich, in
structing stories of olden times. Miss Sedgwick, Miss Onie,
Miss Pickering, Miss Gove, and last of the many in our men
tal view, sweet, gentle, piquant, Fanny Forester, touchingly
pleading our forbearance " with a smile on her cheek and a
tear in her een."
Well, lady novel reader, I fancy I see a smile again. I
feared I had gained your displeasure ; for, till the last sen
tence or two, I imagined a look of dudgeon stole over you
face. I will endeavor to cater for the taste of all, as far as
consistency will allow me. To the first class of readers I
will just say, that within these lids they will find nought
contained but truth ; to the second, that, although all true,
some of the incidents are sufficiently thrilling to please, I
trust, even after perusing the effusions of James, Cooper, or
Lippard, that prince of thrilling story tellers, and with this
they must rest content. The narrative, such as it is, is ex
tracted, and compiled from various notes and other informa
tion obtained from Mrs. White, and Dr. White's Government
Reports, and sundry documents kindly favored me, carrying
them through a variety of scenes ; interesting and extensive
travels by land and water, and a residence of many years
in the wilds of Oregon.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
Circumstances which suggested to Dr. White the project of going to
Oregon — Emotions of Mrs. White — Announcing to the Board of
Missions their willingness to go — Appointment received — Coinci
dence — Reception at New York and Boston — Embarkation — Friends
accompany them a few miles out — Parting — Number and descrip
tion of the mission party — Children  17
CHAPTER II.
First dinner on board — Effect of a change of diet — Water ; its scar
city — Swearing — Flying fish — Shark — Mother Carey's chickens —
Employment — Reaching the equator — Neptune — Amusing scene —
Storm — Plate of ham  25
CHAPTER III.
Falkland Isles — Seals, etc. — Albatross — Cape Horn — Atmosphere —
Man overboard — Miss Johnson's Efforts for his conversion — Juan
Fernandes — Burial of the cook — Whales — Loss of the ship Es
sex  34
CHAPTER IV.
Black Fish — Dance of the Porpoises-^-See Land — Heights of Owyhee —
Venerable Pilot — His after kindness — Ladies left alone — Return ot
the Gentlemen — Cargo of Bananas, &c. — Visitors — Landing — Settle
for the Winter — Dress of the Natives — Numbers and occupation —
Females' attempt at Imitation — Funeral ceremonies of the Princess —

vm contents.
Procession — Cahelas — Visit to Touii — Craters and Battle Field—
Tamaahaah — Half-Caste School— Mrs. White's School — Young
Prince— Character of the Children— Nurse Kakeria— Her love for
Silas — Valuable Presents  42
CHAPTER V.
Spring and preparations to leave the Sandwich Islands — Benefit to
them of their residence there — Engage passage on board ship — Food
and water — Windy and boisterous — Great loss — Contents of the
boxes sent on board by Pilot Reynolds ; his wife — Interesting young
man ; his marriage with a. native woman — Mr. Grimes  Suc
cession of Storms — Endeavor to cross the Bar of the Columbia —
Desperation of the Captain — Crossing — Lulling of the Winds — Ba
ker's Bay — Rest —View — Varieties t>f Trees ; their enormous size —
King Chenamus and his Consort ; his Intoxication ; their Dress —
Aground three times — Visitor — Invitation to the Shore — First Canoe
ride — Arrival at Astoria — Residence of Mr. Birney — Beds for the
Night  49
CHAPTER VI.
Size of Astoria — The Diana still aground — Preparations to go to Fort
Vancouver — One eyed Pilot George — Remonstrances of Friends —
Mrs. White's Resolution— Leaving Astoria — Singing of the Crew 
Beauty of the Shores — Reflections — Seeking for a place to Camp 
Startling Incident — Camping — Tale of the "Petrified Sister."... Je/%~~
CHAPTER VII.
Indian Village — Kindness of an Indian Woman — New kind of Um
brella — Accident — Meeting with Dr. Talmie — Killing an Eagle —
Arrival at the Fort — Garden and Plantation — Arrival of the Diana —
Mr. Jason Lee — Raillery of Miss Pitman — Mr. Lee's Introduction —
Leaving the Fort — Captain Hinckley's officiousness — Laughable ar
rangement^ — Boat races — Conclusion respecting Mr. Lee — Putting
in for the night— Supper and walk— Pond— Pleasant sail— Willa
mette Falls— A tradition— Bargain— Portage— Elk Bluff— Pudding
River — Arrival at Battens de porte McKoys — Letter— Departure for

contents. ix
the Mission — Delightful journey — Arrival at their destination — Miss
Downing and Mr. Shepherd — His appearance— Two thousand two
hundred miles journey ended — First dinner  62
CHAPTER VIII.
Mr. Daniel Lee — Stroll in the garden — Its beauty — Accommodations
— Mission children — Names — Sufferings of the chief— Improvements
Miss Pitman and Mr. Lee — The two marriages  73
CHAPTER IX.
Occupations — Harvesting — Mr. Lee's expertness — Temperance meet
ings — Ewing Young and his distillery — Customs of the Hudson's
Bay Company — Action of Gov. McLaughlin  77
CHAPTER X.
Endeavors to reach home fi om Fort Vancouver by a new route — Be
wilderment in the woods — Fears — Unsatisfactory interview — Hun
ger and weariness of the pony — Despondency — Hunger and fatigue
— Hallooing for succor — Seeking a place to rest — Ascent into a tree
— Passing several hours in the saddle — Bed on the ground — Fears
of wild animals — Wolf story — Morning — Departure — Steep hill —
Suspicions — Sudden resolution — Reach the Willamette — Despond
ency — Paddles — Mrs. Bilake — Hunger and disappointment — Duck —
Odd reply — " A watched pot never boils" — Arrival at Mrs. B's resi
dence — Home  80
CHAPTER XI.
Ladies' employments — Hard Fare — Mr. Leslie's arrival, and also Mr.
Perkins's — Close quarters — New house — Hearth — Wolves — Doctor
White treed — Mrs. White's weapon — Cowardice of the animals —
The two species of wolves — Anecdotes — Antelope hunt or "cir
cling" — Swarming — Marriage of Miss, Johnson and Mr. Perkins— -
Winter rains — Missionary meeting — Political convention — Mr. Lee's
return to the United States — Reasons — Missionary efforts at the
Dalles — Revival at the mission — Startling report — Death of Mrs.

X contents.
Lee and her babe— Drawing of George — His former escape from
death on the Seneca Lake — Mrs. Whitman's little girl drowned —
Coincidence  87
CHAPTER XII.
A call from the Dalles — Mrs. White, Mr. Leslie, and Dr. Bailey set out
for that station-Return to the Cascades— Salmon party— Visit among
the natives — The aged turned off to die — Portage — Visit to an Indi
an burial place — Dead houses — War club — Re-embark — Swift Car-
rent — Conversation — Disaster — Struggles for breath — Mr. Leslie's
statement — Canoes — Conducted to the shore — The lifeless babe —
Arrival at th; Fort — Reach the falls of the Willamette — Strangers —
Unhappy night — Reach home — Letters  95
CHAPTER XIII.
Illness of Mr. Shepherd — Surgical operation — Singular impressions of
Mrs. White — His death — Benevolent society — Visit to Xavier"s —
A Mother's anguish — Burying alive — The drowned boy — Outline of
Dr. Bailey's history — John Turner — A hermitage — Turner's bra
very — His seclusion  105
CHAPTER XIV.
Daniel Lee's adventure — Visit from Mr. and Mrs. Beaver — English
domestic — Visit from Dr. Whitman and Gov'nor and Mrs. McLaugh
lin — Mode of travelling — Mr. Hall and Lady — Party of the Hudson's
Bay Company — Intermarriage with the natives — Origin of the cus
tom — Extract from Astoria — Return of Mrs. Lee — News — Effect —
Oregon Institute — Agriculture — Mr. Lee's course on his first arrival
in the country — Results — Exploring tour to the Umpqua country —
Willamette Valley — Umpqua mountains — Difficult assent — A plan
tation — Polite reception — Return — Meeting with an Indian party —
Narrative of the Chief.  116
CHAPTER XV.
Difficulty with Mr. Lee — Extract from a report of the board of mis
sions — Embarcation — Delightful voyage to the Islands — Danger

contents. xi
—Mrs. W 's concern— The pilot again— Visitors— Exploring squad
ron— Pic-nic— Embark for the United States— Passengers— Mr.
Diell's death — Social parties — Hailing a vessel — Aarrival in port —
Bennett's express  131
CHAPTER XVI.
Trip to New York— Call on Mr. Fry— His singular behavior— Intro
ductions — Journey to Washington — Reception — Appointment to the
Sub-Agency — Death — Lizette — Starting for Oregon — Company —
Reach Havana — Separation — Sad thoughts — An old friend — Arri
val at Geneva — Curiosity excited by the Indian boys — Reach Buf
falo — Milan — Travel via. Columbus to St. Louis — Reception — Wil
liam Sublet — Kind reception at Independence — Anxieties, — Meeting
of the emigration — Resolutions  138
CHAPTER XVII.
Departure — Emotions — A friend — Manner of camping — Order of the
morning — Dog slaughter — Sickness of a child — Detained two days
— Difficulty in crossing Caw river — Increasing illness of the child —
Its death — The mother becomes ill — Mr. and Mrs. L. obliged to re
turn — Undulating country — Big Blue — Divide — Rainy night — Buf
falo — Platte river and plain — Fuel — South fork of the Platte — Chim
ney and castle — Singular scenery — Arrival at Fort Laramy — Cost of
flour, etc. — Bridger and company — Alarming incident  147
CHAPTER XVIII.
Buffalo Hunting — Mother Bennett — Tobacco scrape — Sweetwaer
Valley — Indian Village — Preparations for defence — Happy disap
pointment — Snow — Great Divide — Fitz Patrick's announcement —
View — Two streams — Little Sandy — Separation — Reach Green
river — The valley — Visit from a grisley bear — Animating chase —
Another separation — Difficult travelling — Storm — Soda spring — Ar
rival at Fort Hall — Set off in company with McDonald — Another
division — Herding district — Natives — Snake river — Drowning of a
man — Fort Boicc — Burnt River Valley — Boiling spring — Doctor ob
tains a guide to Dr. Whitman's — Arrival there — Departure for Walla-

xii contents.
walla — Two days' stay there — Formation of the Cascade Mountains
— Petrifactions — A rock — Bluffs — Fort Vancouver mills — Willa
mette — Excitement at the Doctor's arrival and appointment — A
meeting — Its doings — Preparations for receiving the reinforcement —
Meetings to establish a provisional form of government — A tribu
nate — Disturbance among the Indians at Wallawalla and Clearwa
ter — Call for the Agent's interference  158
CHAPTER XIX.
General excitement — State of the colony — Improper conduct of the up
per country Indians — Character of the Wallawallas, Keyuses, and
Nez Perces — Their disposition towards the missionaries — Mistaken
course of the missionaries — Their treatment of a clergyman — Dan
gerous situation of Dr. Whitman among them— His kindness — Indi
an's treatment of Mrs. W. — Burning of the mission mills — 111 treat
ment of Mr. Spalding and lady — Expedition of the Sub- Agent —
Hardships — Reach Waiilatpu — Appointment with the chiefs — Mr.
Spalding's station — Reception — The Agent's treatment of the In
dians — Public interview — Speeches of McKinley, Rogers, and Mc
Kay — Five Crows, Bloody Chief, and others — The Doctor's statement
and advice—Appointment of a high chief— Feasting — Last meeting
— Close — Results of Dr. White's visit to the Nez Perces — Laws of
the Nez Perces— Return to Waiilatpu — Keyuse tribe — Feathercap —
Touiti's accusation against the whites — Appointment for another
meeting — Reach Wascopum — Success — Doings of the missionaries
—Catholic missions — Schools — Country upon the Columbia and its
tributaries, and towards California — Limestone, &c. — Settlements at
the Willamette — Falatine Plains — Clatsop Plains, &c. — Comparison
between a certain portion of Oregon, and the New England States
— Terrible disaster — Hard characters  Volcano — Report of Mr.
Spalding — Mr. Jasen Lee'sReport  172
CHAPTER XX.
Excitement among the Indians — Different views of the alarmed whites
— Another journey — State of the Indians — Mr. Spalding's station —
Nez Perces — Keyuses and Wallawallas — Presence of the women at

Contents. xiii
the feast— Peace— Visit the Dalles— Course of the agent— Laws of
the whites— Immigrating party— Willamette valley— Gov. McLaugh
lin—False reports— Schools— Mission claim— Mr. Lee— Instructions
to immigrants— Oregon Institute— Letters  213
CHAPTER XXI.
Manufacture of liquors— Breaking up a distillery— Conduct of Cock-
stock, an Indian— Affray— Killing of Cockstock— Deaths from poi
soned arrows — Interview with the Indians— Previous frightful affair
with Cockstock— Alarming visit of fifteen Indians— Cold Blooded
murder — Presents to Cockstock's widow — Protection required — Let
ter from Mr. Hines — Meeting of the legislative body — Resolution-
Unhappy affray — Conduct in courts — Resources of the country — Soil
of Oregon— Arrival of Rev. Mr. Desmitt, nuns and priests — Port-
Exports— Imports- — Tour— Schools — Quiet among the Indians —
Note from Mr. Littlejohn— Fidelity of the Indians — Reasons for pre
venting the sale of liquor— Enactment of the legislative committee
of Oregon— An act to provide ways and means  228
CHAPTER XXII.
General health, etc—Winter rains— State of affairs between the whites
and Indians — Chief of the Fallatine plains— Aggression by the Indi
ans-— Military assistance called for — Communication of the chief-
Unhandsome and unjust behavior of the Californians— Murder of Eli
jah Hedding— -Ellis sent to the whites— Salutary language and inter
view— 'Happy visit with Ellis— Intended revenge of the aggressed
party — Invitation to the chiefs— Difficulty at fort Vancouver-
Suspension of hostilities— The agents weariness of the unhappy
state of affairs— Dissatisfaction with the government— An unpleas
ant affair settled— The colony— Methodist institute — Circulating
medium needed— Agent's unpleasant position— Number of Indians —
Letter from Mr. McLaughlin and Douglas— Answer from Russell
and Stewart— Letter from Mr. Bumett— New wagon route — Report
of the sub-agent's interpreter— Mr. Lee relative to the Nez Perces—
Letter from Mr. Lovejoy to the secretary of war — A resolution-
Note to Hon. W. MedUl  239

XIV CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXIII.
Thrilling story — A slave slain and buried with his master — Strange
custom — Inducements to the doctor to take the journey home — En
deavors to discover a new route through the Cascade mountains —
Scaling a mountain — Vegetation — Snows — Fine view — Masses of
rocks — Mt. Hood — Disheartened — Return to the base of the moun
tain — Molalah Indians— Disappointment — Wheat — Petrified ash —
Advantages for settling — Deer and elk — Wild cat — New determina
tion — Fine country — Mounds — Mt. Spencer — Ascent laborious —
Shrubs — Incident — Stupendous view— Descent  259
CHAPTER XXIV.
Indian encampment — Prairies and band of Indians — Stream — Separa
tion — Spur of the mountains — Horses left — Indian village — Singular
destitution — Embarking on the river — Startling accident — Swift
travelling — Sterile tract — Tide water — Encamp — Indian village —
Craw fish — Singular piece of meat — Indian explanation — The ocean
— Strip of land — Boy — Brown's claim — Railroad advantages — Indi
an toil — Good fire — In sight of friends — Breakfast — A start — A pres
ent — Wolves — Beautiful country — Arrival at the colony — Petition —
Start again for the states — Party separate — Meeting at the Dalles —
Indian encampment — Wedding here to-day — Bride and bridegroom
— Dresses— Whimsical story — Disappointment in obtaining the bride's
beautiful dress— Murderous affair — Interesting account — Deserter 
Another threatened — John Day river — Saucy Indians — Wallawallas
— A halt — Visitors and presents — Agriculture and its effects — Hot
Spring — Alarm — Keyuses and Nez Perces — Alarming report — Guard
— Emigration — Letters — St. Joseph's company — Mr. Fisher's eager
ness for news — A meal — Odd reason for lagging behind-^-Chance for
carrying a letter— Roguish girls — Fort Hall — Runaway horse.,.. 270
CHAPTER XXV.
Showers — Soda Springs — Dr. Burke— Pleasant interview — Green river
— Great change — New route — Sterile and forbidding country — Sum
mit level — Uncomfortable night — Contrast — Divide — " Home, sweet

Contents. x'v
home"— A trail— Sabbath travelling— Weather— Dreary pass— Ani
mals— Bear— Sweetwater valley— Independence rock— Solitary walk
—Halt— Ravine— Snow— Red bluff— Camp on the Platte— Buffalo
—Needless fears— Humbug— Three grizzly bears— Signs of Indians
—Nondescript — Indian and family — Signs of danger — Herd of hor-
Bcs — Attempt to escape observation— Failure — An old mnn — Kind
reception — Handsome offer — An American — Feasting— Smoking—
Reasonable request— Encampment— Two Frenchmen— Good meal
—Warm spring— Fort Laranny— Mr. Tappan— Fligibilily for a mil
itary post  ogg
CHAPTER XXVI.
Chapman's return for the minute book — Hard time — A move — Return
— White men — The Platte — Art nature — Platte crane — Polecat —
Ash creek — Thompson — A present — Wolves — Kill a. buffalo — A
robbery — Woodless platte, valley, etc. — Bread — History of a lump of
sugar — Singular circumstance — Sabbath morning — Weather — Buf
falo — Birds — Antelope, etc, — Length of the buffalo district — Large
herd — -Express — Warning of danger — A sign of danger — Pawnees
— Unpleasant interruption — Pack-horse frightened — Troublesome
Indian — Departure — Firing — Another interruption — Number of Indi
ans — Madness of attempting to contend — Brown and Saxton — Coat
taken — A blow — Hard usage — A protector — A ride on horse-back —
Saxton — Little demons — A council — Delicate feast — Council mora
moderate — Another confiscation — " Bad people behind" — Not to be
gulled — Saxton's visitor — Package of manuscripts — Preparation to
start — Kind old squaw — Gratitude — Unpleasant surprise — Advanta
geous trade proposed — Kind interference — Forced trade — Final con
clusion — Dr. Satterly  297
CHAPTER XXVII.
Departure — Prairie on fire — Strong wind — Raw corn — Thirst — Breams
— Pool — Indians — Ruse — Living on raw corn — Big Bine — Grove —
Wild turkey — Lucliy shot — Postponement of a feast — Sabbath — Bad
night — Indian and family flour — Nice bread — Frozen squashes —
Residence of Mr. Fish — Beautiful country — Westport — Mr. Erown —
Independence — Divine worship — Visit to the mission  308

xvi contents.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Outline of journey to Washington — Gracious reception— Thoughts o
home — Meeting with friends in New York city — Reach Ithaca —
Arrival home — Letter to the editor of a western paper — Decrease of
the Indian population in Oregon — Timbers of Oregon — Fossils —
Animals — Birds — Soil — Legislators of Oregon — Anecdote — Wrong
of the government in not extending jurisdiction over Oregon — Treat
ment of public officers — Treatment of Dr. White  314

TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

CHAPTER I.
Circumstances which suggested to Dr. White the project of going to
Oregon — Emotions of Mrs. White — Announcing to the Board of
Missions their willingness to go — Appointment received — Coinci
dence — Reception at New York and Boston — Embarkation — Friends
accompany them a few miles out — Parting — Number and descrip
tion of the mission party — Children.
During the intense frost that prevailed in the midst of
the great conflagration of '36 at New York, Dr. White
came in from a professional ride, and shivering with cold,
seated himself by the fire ; and while warming his be
numbed fingers, took up the Christian Advocate for a few
moments' perusal, and, glancing over its contents, sud
denly, in his usual jocular manner, observed to Mrs. W.,
that there was a call for them from Oregon; that the
board of missions advertised for a clergyman, physician,
&c. &c, and as he could act in the capacity of pill-pedler,
he thought it might be well to respond thereto. She did
not immediately answer ; and looking up, he was surprised
to find her weeping. This seemed to him smgular, as her
disposition was so unusually cheerful, and it was so seldom
that there was a trace of tears to be found upon her cheek,
especially, as he thought, for so trivial a cause. la some
confusion and mortification, he begged her not to allow his
2

18 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
nonsense to cause her uneasiness ; assuring her, he was but
jesting. Still she wept in silence, till, after a pause of seve
ral moments, she struggled for composure, seated herself
by his side, extended her hand for the paper, and twic«
looking over the notice, she related to him the sensations
with which she had ever traced the map of the Columbia
river.* She farther remarked, that if he could so arrange
his affairs as to render it consistent for him to go to Oregon,
she would place no obstacle in his way, and with her moth
er's consent would willingly accompany him. This was so
unlike her usually matter-of-fact language, and seemed, in
deed, so visionary, that he was astounded, and in his turn,,
Bpeechless. Becoming composed, they calmly discussed the
matter, and eventually decided that prudence demanded
their remaining at home, maugre childish impressions.
They confess, that, whenever they afterwards thought of
this incident, it always provoked a smile, although it never
failed to interest, serving forcibly to illustrate from what
casualties sometimes spring strange and momentous results ,;
as, till this moment, they had no more thought of engaging
m such an enterprise, than of a trip to the moon.
* Mis. White relates, that from childhood, while pursuing the study oi
Geography, the Columbia river, and its adjoining country, had always
created in her mind a deep and absorbing interest. Not that she had any
reasonable expectation of ever visiting it, but for hours she would sit.
wrapped in contemplation, her feelings and attention drawn towards
that region of the world, in an inconceivably strong and singular man
ner. It may seem a superstition, but, in after years, this was explain
ed by a circumstance which wil! ever caue^ her heart to throb with
peculiar emotion.
[Reference is here had to her own narrow escape, and the drowning
of her little eon, in the Columbia river. See chapter 12.]

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 19
Up to this period, the board of missions of the Methodist
Episcopal Church, had never employed a physician in any
foreign field. But this was emphatically a time of singular
adventure, and the spirit of enterprise had seized upon all
ranks and departments of business. Nor, in their benev
olent operations, did the Christian churches stand still, in
the busy round. Various were the calls from heathen
climes, and ready were the responses. Africa, China, Bur
ma, India, and the Isles of the South Sea, were not the only
quarters from which had arisen the macedon cry. The
calls from the Pacific had been heard, and the gladdening
results of labors in the Sandwich groups and Society Isles,
urged on to farther and more glorious conquests. Last,
but not least, came the cry from Oregon's dark mountains
and savage plains. The thrill of the appeal of the Flat
head delegation was electric, and fired the churches with a
spirit of noble emulation. The Lees, Parker, Whitman, and
Spaulding, were the first to respond.
A fortnight passed on ; not without some reflection on
the subject, and the Advocate announced that the required
compliment had been completed, physician excepted. After
more mature deliberation, Dr. W. addressed the secretary of
the board, stating that if no more satisfactory offers were
made, he was at their servjce. Ten days later, a letter
arrived from Dr. Bangs, containing his appointment, and
requesting him to be in readiness to sail in a few weeks
from Boston, via. Sandwich Islands, to Oregon. Mrs. W.
still retained her determination to accompany her husband,
though, till she saw the appointment and its publication,
she scarce realized a possibility of a necessity of her doing
so. The thought that they were now to leave, probably
for ever, their dear home and dearer friends, was a sad one,

JO TKN YEARS IN OREGON.
aad she shed tears of regret, though not of reluctance, to
gOw She pictured to herself her mother's anguish, at what
must be very like consigning her only daughter to the grave.
the anticipated separation from that mother who had nursed
her so tenderly, and loved her with the tireless, changeless
affection which the maternal heart only knows, filled her
with sorrow. However, by a fortunate coincidence, they
were spared the painful scene they had feared, and obtained
ker consent with little difficulty. When they visited her for
fiat purpose, she had just been reading, for the first time,
the life of Mrs. Judson ; and the example of this excellent
lsdy had so interested her, that, when their project was laid
before her, she listened with comparative calmness ; and,
ffceugh somewhat astonished, was willing they should go
wbere duty led them. This, in some measure, relieved
Mrs. White ; and, with a lightened heart, and more compo
sure, she set about the necessary preparations. In a short
time, all was in readiness ; the last farewell wept, rather
l&an spoken ; the last yearning look lingered on cherished
otijects, and they were on their way to Oregon. At New
York they were received with the utmost cordiality, and
warm, kindly feeling, for which that city has been so justly
distinguished. On the day that their eldest son was one
year old, they embarked for Boston, where they were like
wise received with a kindness and attention worthy of en
suring their lasting gratitude. During their stay, their time
was mostly occupied in making purchases of utensils for the
future comfort of themselves and others of the expedition,
m their far-off destination. At last all was completed, and
they embarked on board the ship Hamilton, Capt. S. Bar
ker, for the Sandwich Islands ; and some thirty of the
friends proposed escorting the mission family a short

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 21
distance on their way. For this purpose, they also w«nt
on board, hiring a pilot boat to accompany the ship. They
enjoyed a delightful season together, although the mission
aries felt as though about to be torn for ever from those con
nected to them by ties of real friendship, for they accounted
them dear as though they had known them for years instead
of days. Their enjoyment was brief, however, as it was late
in the day, and they were soon out of sight of land. At
the end of two hours they were compelled to separate.
That their adieus were sorrowful, may not be doubted;
indeed, this, or any other word in our language, is inade
quate to describe the emotions of the party. As the pilot
boat dropped round the stern of the vessel, its occupants
waved then' handkerchiefs, and simultaneously began sing
ing a farewell missionary hymn. The effect was electric!
Some rushed to the side in agony, as though they would
recal the departing ones, and return with them to their na
tive land. Others covered their faces, and tears streamed
through the trembling fingers ; and sobs shook the frames
of even strong men. They thought not of .formalities ; in
that hour it was not a shame for the sterner sex to weep.
The forms of their friends fast lessened in the distance, and
at last their boat looked like a speck on the wave, and lie
sweet cadences of that beautiful song, faintly rilling along to
their hearing like the sigh of an angel, were the last sounds
that reached them from the home of civilization. With
hushed respiration, bowed heads, and straining ears, they
listened to its low breathings, now wafted gently and sooth
ingly to them on the breeze, then dying away, and finally
lost in the whisperings of wind and waves. It is folly to
attempt description, but for weeks did it haunt their slum
bers, while tossing upon the treacherous deep ; and it came

22 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
not alone, for with it were fair visions of parents, home,
brothers and sisters, joyous childhood and youth, and every
thing they had known at home, floated in vivid pictures be
fore them, touched by the fairy pencil of the dream-angel.
Incessantly engaged in preparation while on shore, they
had had no opportunity of making the acquaintance of those
who were to be their ship companions. They now exerted
themselves to do so, and soon succeeded, sympathy drawing
them together, for they must now look to one another for
that comfort which was denied them from every other earthly
source. The company consisted of thirteen individuals :
three young ladies — A Miss Downing, engaged to Mr.
Shepherd, who had previously gone out in an expedition ;
Miss Johnson, and a Miss Pitman, who afterwards married
Mr. Jason Lee, who was also in Oregon ; Mr. Beers, a black
smith, from Connecticut, his wife and three children ; Mr.
Wilson, a carpenter, from New Bedford ; Dr. and Mrs.
White, George, their adopted son, and their babe.
A more particular notice of some of these persons might
be interesting to the reader, and I will begin with Mr. Beers.
He was a man of low stature, rather dark complexion, thin
visage, rigid puritanical manners, and well versed in scrip
ture, ever stoutly insisting on all coming to his landmark,
his righteous soul chafing sorely at the least departure of
his friends from his golden rule. Being rather bilious, it in
creased the austerity of his manners, which failed to render
him a favorite with either crew or passengers.
Mrs. Beers was of medium height, round favored, philo
sophical turn of mind, docile, quiet temperament, and per
fectly obedient to her husband, as the reader might suppose
she had best be, after the above description of him.
Mr, Wilson was five feet ten bches in height, cheerful,

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 28
sympathetic, and affectionate, fond of relating old sea stories,
for he had been quite an experienced whaler. A peculiar
characteristic, and a strange one for a man, was an almost
childish partiality for cats ; and as there were none on board,
he made a pet of a beautiful kid, whose head he would comb
and caress for an hour together, talking to it the while as
though it was a human being. While here, I will give the
sequel of its short life. As they approached the Sandwich
Islands, it became necessary to repair the ship ; and Tip,
partaking too freely of the paint which had been left within
his reach, was consequently thrown into a decline, and
yielded up his breath before they entered port, lamented by
all, as the little creature, by its affectionate playfulness, had
much endeared itself to them.
Miss Pitman, from New York, was rather tall, with black
eyes and hair, resolute and persevering, fervently pious, and
possessing considerable poetic genius.
Miss Downing, of Lynn, Massachusetts, had dark hair,
blue eyes, elegant form ; exhibited taste and neatness in her
attire, and was much beloved by her companions, and always
remembered by them with pleasure and respect.
Miss Johnson, also, had dark hair and blue eyes, and fair
complexion ; and, if not really beautiful, she was very win
ning and engaging, ever truly devoted, but of cheerful,
happy disposition. She was lovely and amiable, desirous of
rendering herself useful, in which she so well succeeded
while in Oregon. A purer, more truly missionary spirit, and
one more zealous in the work to which she had devoted her
self, has not, perhaps, as yet, visited that distant clime.
As children are my pets, I will depart from the custom of
many authors, and talk of them for a few moments, and then
relate some of the incidents of the voyage. George was the

24 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
son of a poor widow in Havana. He was a round favored,
plump little fellow, much attached to his book, and of sin
gularly intellectual cast. His memory was extraordinary.
Few, either man or boy, could compete with him in this re-
speet. His narrow escape from drowning in the Seneca Lake,
together with his dreadful fate in Oregon, will be brought in,
more appropriately, at another time. Mr. Beers' eldest
daughter was a very frank; happy young girl, perhaps some
what of a hoyden, as young girls will occasionally be. She
was very fond of Benny, and they enjoyed extremely well
the sports of Mr. Wilson with the kid ; and the vessel often
rang with their noisy shouts of merriment, as they frolicked
together. Benny was a child with piercing, laughing black
eyes ; in short, a pretty babe, and afterwards a fine boy.
There was his little sister, Eleanor, who was a great talker,
like many of her sex, affording the elder one much amuse
ment by her lisping prattle. Children, so far from contrib
uting to the enjoyment of people generally, are often con
sidered annoyances ; yet the artless chatter and playful
pranks of these, greatly dispelled the gloom and ennui which
would sometimes steal over the ship.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 26

CHAPTER II.
First dinner on board. Effect of change of diet — Water ; its scar
city — Swearing — Flying fish — Shark — Mother Carey's Chickens —
Employment — Reaching the Equator — Neptune — Amusing scene-
Storm — Plate of Ham.
The departure of their friends left the missionaries' feel
ings so harrowed, that they had little appetite for their din
ner. However, when called, they descended to the cabin,
and the table and its appurtenances were before them. —
The table was about twenty feet in length, fastened to the
deck, and the benches likewise ; other seats they then saw
none. They seated themselves, and the viands were served.
A turreen of bean soup, in the first instance sufficiently
weak, but again diluted, so that its richness could in no wise
injure the digestion, was placed before them. This was dis
posed of, as well as possible, hope suggesting that something
more palatable would next present itself. Next came some
hard sea biscuit, and a large, uncouth piece of half-boiled
beef, at which they gazed with rueful faces, scarce daring to
hope for sufficient strength of jaw for its mastication, and
involuntarily wishing for more of the before despised bean
soup. Dr. White's little son was but thirteen months old ;
and with what management they were to keep him alive, on
guch food, was beyond his parents' comprehension. How
ever, they submitted with the best grace they could, think
ing that the dessert might be more acceptable. But they
had no sooner eaten what they thought proper of this deli-

26 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
cacy, than the captain deliberately arose, and the meal was
ended, minus dessert. But this was an unfair example of
their general living, as the ship was now in the confusion of
getting under way ; it was subsequently, however, a grade
higher. But the great change from milk and light food, to the
crude materials more suitable for adults, engaged in manual
labor, soon produced, in Silas, unfavorable symptoms, which
terminated in an inflammation of the stomach, and the poor
little fellow suffered incredibly. Of vegetables, they had
ten bushels, severally, of mingled potatoes, onions, beans, and
beats ; but the potatoes had been gathered in July, and were
consequently withered and shrivelled, till both taste and sus
tenance were nearly gone.
Want of good water was another great annoyance. That
which was on board was drawn from a filthy pool, near Bos
ton, both officers and sailors declarmg it better than if taken
from springs, as it would work itself clear from all impurities.
The passengers presumed to indulge the suspicion that the
indolence of the hands might have furnished the true reason.
It was contained in old casks, which had been unfit for use,
but for another equally satisfactory excuse, namely, that
green wood emitted deleterious properties, and consequently,
the older the vessel the better the contents. At any rate,
both these causes, however good, failed to accomplish the de
sired object ; as, to be near a cask, while it was being opened,
was very sickening, for a more foeted, repulsive scent, was
never smelled. Frequently, after rendering the water as
pleasant and palatable as possible, and presenting it to the
sick boy, he would refuse it, with a most unqualified expres
sion of disgust on his little face. Even of this, they had not
sufficient for the whole voyage ; and as they passed under

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 27
the equator, during the frequent storms, they stopped the
scuppers with swabs, and thus obtained fresh supplies. Of
this they had many good cups of tea and coffee, though
still not as pure as they could wish, as it was the tarry
drenchiiigs of the rigging and sailors' clothes, and washings
of the deck ; but it was more endurable than the water from
the casks. Had it not been for these providential showers,
they must have been put on allowance ; as it was, during
the whole voyage, they had not an article washed, larger
than a pocket handkerchief, or a dress for the little ones.
It was very unpleasant and inconvenient ; and they often
thought of those on shore, who would have considered it a
hardship if they could not have had their raiment cleansed
once a week.
Being unacquainted with all the preparations necessary,
Mrs. W. had furnished herself with only a few changes for
Silas, and he suffered much in consequence. When they
arrived at the Sandwich Islands, she became much indebted
to the kindness of the missionary ladies, who presented her
with apparel more than sufficient for the voyage to the Co
lumbia, it being little more than one-fifth the length of the
first. Having heard much of the profanity of sailors, they
were surprised at never hearing a single oath escape their
lips, save once, on an occasion of extreme danger, being
nearly run into by another ship, and were persuaded that
such reports were mere exaggerations. However this may
be, it is probable the presence of the missionaries had a re
straining effect upon the hardy tars.
The reports respecting the flying fish, our friends had
almost regarded as fabulous, ranking with stories of mer
maids ; but they were now convinced of their truthfulness.

28 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
This species of fish is from eight to twelve inches in
length, justly proportioned, resembling, in form, the brook
trout. They were always found in shoals, sometimes fol
lowing the ship for a considerable distance, and frequently,
during the night, (probably attracted by the lights,) fell on
deck, from which, being unable to rise, they were easily
caught, and submitted to the curious scrutiny of the passen
gers. Their wings were somewhat like those of the bat,
issuing from their sides, at about one-third the distance
from the head to the tail, resembling a fin, save that they
were proportioned to the size of the body, measuring,
when extended, from ten to twelve inches. The distance
which they were able to fly, when out of the water, though
they did so with great rapidity, did not exceed fifteen rods.
They were often seen pursued by the dolphin, which seemed
to be their relentless persecutor, as well as that of many of
the smaller fishes. This fish was from four to seven feet in
length, peculiarly nimble and active in its habits, beautifully
colored, and when out of the water, the tints constantly
changing to every variety of hue and shade. The sailors, con
trasting it with their salt meats, regard it a delicacy — the
landsmen, tolerable.
A sort of exercise in which the sailors delighted, was
shark fishing. They would mount into the chains with an
officer, and, decoying their victims, haul them on board,
their helpless flounderings affording infinite amusement and
excitement, and sometimes not a little affright, to the spec
tators. Often, too, they received visits from the bird, about the
size of our wren, so far-famed as mother Carey's chickens,
the origin of which name the sailors gave as follows : A
widowed woman from the Emerald Isle, came from thence

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 29
to this country. During the voyage, a storm arose, and she
observed the little creatures fluttering about among the
masts and cordage, and the boys amusing themselves by
capturing them. Her Irish heart rebelled against this, and,
much afflicted, she cried out, " Och, murther, murther !
and don't kill the trimblin crathers ! Don't harrm me pure
checkens !"
Our friends were sometimes troubled for something to
busy themselves about, and the order of the day was gene
rally as follows : On leaving their state rooms in the morn
ing, the first business was ablution. This was not a pleas
ant operation, as they were obliged to perform it with salt
water, and the saline properties evinced more of a disposi
tion to adhere to the skin than was quite agreeable ; hence
the task of wiping and rubbing was more satisfactory than
that of washing. If the weather was mild, the quarter deck
became the resort, where they amused themselves by read
ing or walking till the breakfast call, which was usually
about eight o'clock.
This ceremony over, they returned to much the same em
ployments till the hour of dining. This was the important
meal of the day, and they were sometimes treated to a des
sert, which consisted of boiled rice pudding, and, the great
est luxury of all, a mince pie, compounded of corned pork
or beef, sea biscuit, dried apples of questionable character,
and a smart seasoning of salt and pepper. Dinner conclud
ed, which left them in the best possible humor, they gene
rally took a siesta of an hour or two. After this refreshing,
they found the shade of the awning -quite grateful, as it was
now the warmest part of the day, being between one and
four o'clock. They again resorted to their books, till, wea
rying of this, after being out a few weeks, it required some-

30 TEN YEARS IN OREGON,
thing unusually exciting to interest thern, and they felt, if
they could only Step into a bookstore and procure something
new, it would be an inestimable privilege. The little stock
of reading was soon exhausted, and they were without re
source of this kind.
They were from the 29 th of July to the 9 th September,
being about five weeks, reaching the eqtaator; and had lis
tened to a great many sailor yarns respecting the wicked
practices of Neptune, and looked forward to the crossing
with some expectation of witnessing an exhibition of his
pranks. They stated, that, as often as a ship nearcd the
Beat of his power, he came on board with his queen, tritons,
and attendants ; and if there were any green hands on board,
they were sure to suffer. He generally forced their accep
tance of a coat of tar, well napped with feathers ; and for
several days their faces would not recover from the severe
shaving they had received in the shape of scraping. At the
eventful period, the cabin boy Billy was obliged to undergo
some ceremony of the kind, the particulars of which they
could never learn ; but the poor fellow was dreadfully fright
ened, and it is probable the crew played upon him some se
vere joke.
There was rather an amusing scene when the sun was first
discovered directly over head. The doctor was aware they
were about far enough to the south to see it in this position ;
and one day, about twelve o'clock, placing himself in a pos
ture so that he could have a clear view of it, he suddenly
sprang up, and cried out loudly, "Stand from under! —
don't you see we shall be dashed to atoms ? Stand from
tinder !" There were many idlers lounging about the deck,
and at the shout, they ran in a panic from their several
places, and stared about in every direction but the right.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 31
Apprehending no danger from the "god of day," then-
thoughts never once pointed to him ; and they could see no
eause for the cry. Turning their eyes to the doctor, they
saw him laughmg, and immediately suspected they had been
gulled. He pointed upward, and instantly comprehending
the ruse, they enjoyed a hearty laugh.
They were now approaching the most dangerous part of
the voyage, and did not pass the ordeal unscathed. In a
few days they were near where the Amazon empties into the
sea ; and such a vast volume of water rushing towards them
in one direction, and the winds in a contrary, the vessel waa
often very violently agitated. It was thought they were in
considerable danger ; but it was slight compared with what
they soon experienced from the most terriffic storm they
encountered. The clouds began looming in the west, the
breeze to whistle more shrilly ; and the passengers, who on
these occasions are more than usually alert, observed the
officers interchanging looks of meaning, and issuing orders
m low tones of stem decision; and that the men went to
their duty with more than ordinary readiness and alacrity,
with few words, as though much were depending upon
their movements. Mr. Beers sidled coaxingly along to the
©aptain, and modestly enquired, "Capt. Barker, is there
danger ?" With a shrug of impatience he replied, " Danger,
danger — no!" with a significant motion, which the interrog
ator interpreted as a wish for him to go ; for he immediately
went below, and began diligently studying the sacred prom
ises. The ladies stealthily repaired to the cabin, and no one
was left on deck save a few courageous spirits, who delighted
to witness the conflict between old ocean and the storm.
The hatchways were closed, and orders given for reefing the
sails. With an apprehensive glance at the already black

32 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
horizon, the men sprang aloft, and one after another of the
clouds (Jf canvass disappeared from the masts, and, with a
single exception, they were scudding under bare poles.
Even this one sail seemed almost too much for the vessel to
bear, for the stick bent like a whip, and creaked and groaned
under the pressure. The tempest burst upon them. The
ship, like a living thing, crouched, shivering, in a trough of
the sea ; and then, on a rising wave, bounded forward, like a
maddened steed, striving to rid itself of its tormentors. ,i3n
she plunged, but the storm was around her ; she was wrap
ped as with toils. The heavy waves dashed against her
oaken sides ; spray and foam enveloped her as a thick cloud,
and the winds croaked and moaned through the rigging with
sounds which absolutely resembled howls of rage. The
lightnings coiled and darted from time to time through the
angry skies ; and the thunder roared and muttered threat
eningly in the distance. To render the already frightful
scene more dismal, torrents of rain began pouring from the
murky clouds, and night to envelope them in its dark folds.
With the little ones nestling to their bosoms, and looking
wistfully to them for protection, the females cowered trem
blingly in the cabin. Even the stout hearts of their male
companions sometimes quaked,as they listened to the crashing
of timber broken loose from its fastenings on deck, the haul
ing of ropes, the quick tread of the men, and the rattling
of furniture and crockery as the ship rolled from side to side.
It was a night of terror. The latter part the winds wailed
loud and wild, the firmament was sheeted with lightning,
and the thunder rolled, it seemed, in one continued deafen
ing peal. The white wing of the lonely gull occasionally
flitted across their vision, as if to show them, that, amid a
storm where they, poor mortals, were tossed, helpless, at the

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 33
mercy of wind and wave, he was riding, fearless, at home.
Ah, how they envied the cheerful bird, as he floated to and
fro on the tempest ! The hours passed wearily on till morn
ing. As the light of day spread over the heavens, the
storm abated ; their hearts lightened, and although languid
and fatigued by the excitement and watchfulness of the
night, they began to converse more cheerily, and hope that
present peril was past. The gale had been unusually vio
lent, and as unusually brief. Six and seven bells struck,
and with keen appetites they awaited the summons to break
fast. At nine o'clock they seated themselves, and from the
motion of the ship, were making low conges to their neigh
bors across the board, when their'longing looks were greeted
by the unexpected luxury of a broiled ham. Two or three
hams had been brought from Boston, and this was one of the
last. They sat a few moments, anxiously awaiting a signal
to begin the repast, when a sudden lurch of the vessel caused
them to cling to their seats, and the chairs to step a cotillon,
which exercise they continued till they danced the length of
the cabin and back. Another lunge, and, to their consterna
tion, the meat dish took an impulsive plunge in the same di
rection, and after sundry girations, landed unbroken on the
deck, the meat of course undermost. This disaster entirely
destroyed their desire for eating; notwithstanding, with
much dexterity, the steward caught up the unfortunate
platter, and with a greasy napkin, produced from a pocket
of his unmentionables, rubbed it over, and in a few mo
ments, with its former contents placed invitingly before
them, awaiting their pleasure, as quietly as though nothing
had happened to disturb their equilibrium.

34 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

CHAPTER III.
Falkland Isles— Seals, &c. — Albatross— Cape Horn — Atmosphere-
Man overboard — Miss Johnson's efforts for his conversion — Juan Fer-
nandes — Burial of the cook — Whales — Loss of the ship Essex.
As they proceeded farther southward, the swell of the sea
was very much greater, the waves higher, and the troughs
were deeper ; and for several days before they reached the
Cape, they were made aware of its vicinity by this marked
change, which, when within two days' sail of it, was really
frightful. The wind wafted them strongly and steadily on
ward ; but the scene became more and more dismal, till they
approached the Falkland Islands. Here it was much calmer
and clearer, and they had a fine view of the isles, the coast
of which differed from any other they had ever seen. There
were rocks, seeming to rise perpendicular from the sea, to the
height of several hundred feet, entirely barren, excepting
where, in their clefts, a thin soil afforded a place for various
sorts of ever-greens to fasten their roots. It seemed singu
lar that, with so small sustenance, even this hardy species
could flourish as it did, from the height of three to twenty
feet, presenting to the eye a pleasant picture, where the
green branches rested on the face of the rugged rock, or in
dark relief against the sky.
Formerly, here had been extensive fisheries, of various
kinds, producing immense revenues to those engaged in
them. Several sorts of seals, called the sea horse, sea lion,
&c, were also found in great abundance.
Large flocks of birds, among which were the gull, and

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 35
albatross, frequented the coast, leaving quantities of their
eggs, and were often found on their nests with their young,
where they appeared as tame as domestic fowls, until an at
tempt was made to drive them from thence, when they would
fight with fierceness as long as life remamed. Here they
saw the albatross, the largest of the water fowl, and, except
ing the condor, the largest bird that flies, measuring from
tip to tip of the extended wings, from twelve to fifteen feet;
and the captain assured them he had seen an instance of
one seventeen feet
As they approached Cape Horn the wind blew more
strongly from the- north-west, directly in their faces, driving
them several days out of their course.
The farther south they sailed, the more unpleasant grew
the atmosphere; so humid and piercing, that, clothing
themselves as thickly as possible, and retiring to their births,
it was still very chilling and uncomfortable. The utmost
endeavors were made to kindle fires, but the dampness
frustrated such efforts, and the only effect was filling the
cabin with smoke. For nineteen days they were in this
forlorn, uncomfortable situation, when the shifting of the
winds in their favor, enabled them to regain their lost
ground, and double the Cape,
A thrilling occurrence took place as they were rounding
the most southern point. A man was sent aloft on Sabbath
morning, and in a few moments, " a man overboard !" rang
through the ship. This was the first occurrence of the kind
that had happened, and the possibility of it had scarcely
entered their thoughts. That one should be taken from
among them in so sudden and fearful a manner, almost par
alysed the little community. With pallid faces they crowd
ed to the stern, and each did his best to assist the unfortu-

36 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
nate man. For a while, from the heavy roll of the waves,
it seemed utterly impossible to accomplish his rescue. But
a merciful providence interfered ; he was enabled to seize
one of the ropes which had been thrown him, and, as he
was drawn on board, one volume of thanks arose to heaven,
from the hearts of the anxious gazers. Miss Johnson imme
diately opened a correspondence with him on his truly mi
raculous escape ; her affectionate heart saw that if ever there
was an opening for divine grace, this was one. She labored
well and perseveringly, and it was thought that her kind,
affectionate, christian efforts, were crowned with success, for
a thorough change was wrought in his deportment.
They passed the Cape without farther mishap, and the de
crease of high winds and waves were in proportion to their
increase as they sailed south. Soon after this they were be
calmed eleven days, nearly opposite the Island of Juan Fer-
rxandes, though not in sight, which they regretted, as they
much wished to obtain a view of this celebrated spot, if they
could not visit it. They strained their gaze anxiously in its
direction for hours, while the vessel lay like a log upon the
water, but in vain ; nothing greeted their sight or hearing
save now and then the spouting of a whale at a distance,
and a fish showing its finny sides a moment, and then dis
appearing beneath the blue wave.
Till their arrival at the Sandwich Islands, nothing more
of moment occurred excepting the death of the cook. A
somewhat lingering illness preceded his decease, and it was
on a fine, calm morning, that all hands were piped up for
burying the dead. It was a very solemn and impressive scene.
The sun shed his rays purely and brightly upon the uncov
ered heads of the small assembly. The sailors were ranged
on one side, neatly clad in their Sabbath attire, their eyes

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 3"?
attentively fixed on their captain as he read the burial ser
vice; and the missionaries were grouped together on the
other, also reverently hstening. The dead man, sewn up in
his hammock, with cannon balls attached to his feet, was
stretched upon a long board, one end of which rested upon
the taffrail, and the other was elevated on a stanchion. The
service of the dead was read with much solemnity, to the
words " we therefore commit his body to the deep," when
three or four men applied their shoulders to the plank, and
launched the corpse of then- brother to its last resting place,
till "the sea shall give up its dead."
They saw several species of whale while in the south At
lantic and Pacific. One day, about 118° west longitude,
one not less than ninety feet in length was playing around
the vessel, when one of the officers proposed trying an ex
periment, and accordingly, much against the will of the
passengers, lest something serious might happen, the con
tents of a gun were fired into him. For a moment he did
not totice the salute, and continued his unwieldy gambols,
apparently uninjured, when he started convulsively, as
though suddenly shocked, and, after an instant's pause, sped
away with such rapidity, that he was soon lost to the sight.
Upon this, as was his custom on all suitable occasions, Mr.
Wilson embraced the opportunity of spinning a yarn which
deeply interested his auditors. It was in relation to the loss
of the ship Essex, which took place somewhere in this vi
cinity. He had sailed one voyage under the orders of Capt.
Pollard, its commander, and had often listened to the tale
from his own lips. They were one day on the look out for
sperms, and had struck two, which the boats were follow
ing to secure. While they were thus engaged, a young one
eame up near one of the boats, when, either in fright or

38 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
sport, it uttered a shrill cry, and dived out of sight. At
this a large whale, probably its mother, darted swiftly to
wards them, and it was only by pulling aside with all pos
sible dexterity, that they escaped being dashed in pieces.
Thus baffled, she turned as though meditating another trial,
when she paused, and cast upon them a look, seemingly full
of anger and contempt at their insignificance, and turning
her head towards the ship, as if she had discovered an ob
ject more worthy on which to wreak her vengeance, half
erected her body, and made for it with frightful rapidity.
Those on board saw the approach of the furious creature,
but supposed that at the appearance of so large a hulk, she
would turn aside. But they reckoned without their host,
for she came on with undiminished velocity, and striking
full against the prow, caused every plank to quiver and
shake as though falling from its fellow. But a more just
idea may be imparted by Captain Pollard's own account of
it, as it has since appeared in print : " The whale, as though
hurt by the severe concussion, shook its enormous head and
sheered off to so considerable a distance that for some time
we lost sight of her from the starboard quarter ; of which we
were very glad, hoping that the worst was over. Nearly an
hour afterwards we saw the same fish — we had no doubt of
this from her size and the direction in which she came  ma
king again towards us. We were at once aware of our dan
ger, but escape was impossible. She dashed her head this
time against the ship's side, and so broke it in that she filled
rapidly, and soon became water-logged. At the second
shock, expecting her to go down, we lowered our three
boats with the utmost expedition, and all hands, twenty in
the whole, got into them ; seven, seven, and six. In a little
while, as she did not sink, we ventured on board again ; and

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 39
by scuttling the deck, were enabled to get some biscuit, beef,
water, rum, two sextants, the quadrant, and three com
passes. These, together with some rigging, a few muskets,
powder, &c, we brought away ; and dividing the stores
among our small crews, rigged the boats as well as we
could, there being a compass for each, and a sextant for two,
and a quadrant for one ; but neither sextant nor quadrant
for the third. Then, instead of pushing away for some port,
so amazed and bewildered were we, that we continued sit
ting in our places, gazing upon the vessel as though she had
been an object of the tenderest affection. Our eyes could not
leave her, till at the end of several hours, she gave a slight
reel, then down she sank. No words can tell our feelings.
We looked at each other ; we looked at the place where she
had so lately been afloat, and did not cease to look, till the
terrible conviction of our abandoned and perilous situation,
roused us to exertion, if deliverance were yet possible.
We now consulted about the course it might be best to
take — westward to India, eastward to South America, or
southward to the Society Isles. We knew that we were at
no great distance from Tahiti ; but were so ignorant of the
state and temper of the inhabitants, that we feared that we
should be devoured by canibals, if we cast ourselves on their
mercy. It was determined, therefore, to make for South
America, which we computed to be more than two thousand
miles distant. Accordingly, we steered eastward, and
though for several days harrassed with squalls, we continued
to keep together. It was not long before we found one of
the boats had started a plank ; which was no wonder, for
whale boats are all clinker-built, and very slight, being made
of half inch plank only, before planing. To remedy this
alarming defect, we all turned to ; and having emptied the

40 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
contents of the damaged boat into the others, we raised her
sides as well as we could, and succeeded in restoring the plank
at the bottom. Through this accident, the biscuit had be
came injured by the salt water. This was equally divided
among the boats' crews. Food and water, meanwhile, with
our utmost economy, rapidly failed. Our strength was ex
hausted, not by abstinence only, but by the labor we were
obliged to perform, to keep our little vessels afloat, amid the
storms which repeatedly assailed us. One night we parted
in rough weather ; but though the next day we fell in with
one of our companion boats, we never saw or heard any more
of the other, which probably perished at sea, bejng without
either sextant or quadrant. When we were reduced to the
last pinch, and out of every thing, having been more than three
weeks aboard, we were cheered with the sight of a low, un-
inhabted island, which we reached in hope, but were bitterly
disappointed. There were some barren bushes, and many
rocks, on this forlorn spot. The only provisions that we could
procure, were a few birds and their eggs. This supply was
soon reduced. The sea fowls appear to have been, fright
ened away, and their nests were left empty after we had
once or twice plundered them. What distressed us most,
was the utter want of fresh water. We could not find a
drop .any where, till at the extreme verge of ebb tide, a small
spring was discovered in the sand ; but even that was too
scanty to afford us sufficient to quench our thirst, before it
was covered by the waves at their return. There being no
prospect but that of starvation here, we determined to put
to sea again. Three of our comrades, however, chose to
remain, and we pledged ourselves to send a vessel to bring
them off, if we ourselves should escape to a christian port..
With a very small morsel of biscuit for each, and a little

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 41
water, we again ventured out on the wide ocean. In the
eourse of a few days our provision was consumed. Two
men died. We had no alternative but to five upon then-
remains. These we roasted to dryness by means of fires
kindled on the ballast-sand at the bottom of the boats.
When this supply was spent, what could we do ? We look
ed at each other with horrid thoughts in our minds, but we
held our tongues. I am sure we loved each other as brothers
all the time ; and yet our looks plainly told what must be done.
We cast lots, and the fatal one fell on my poor cabin boy.
I started forward instantly and cried out, "my lad, my lad,
if you don't like your lot, I'll shoot the first man who touches
you." The poor emaciated boy hesitated for a moment or
two, then quietly laying his head upon the gunwale of the
boat, he said, " I like it as well as any other." He was
soon despatched, and nothing of him left. I think that an
other man died of himself, and him too we ate. But I can
tell you no more. My head is on fire at the recollection. I
forgot to say that we parted company with the second boat
before now. After some more days of horror and despair,
when some were lying down at the bottom of the boat," not
able to rise, and scarcely one of us could move a limb, a ves
sel hove in sight ! We were taken on board, and treated
with extreme kindness. The second boat lost was also pick
ed up at sea, and the survivors saved. A ship afterwards
sailed in search of our companions on the desolate island, and
brought them away."

42 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

CHAPTER IV.
Black Fish — Dance of the Porpoises — See Land — Heights of Owyhee —
Venerable Pilot — His after kindness — Ladies left alone — Return of
the Gentlemen — Cargo of Bananas, &c — Visitors — Landing — Settle
for the Winter — Dress of the Natives — Numbers and occupations —
Females' attempt at Imitation — Funeral ceremonies of the Princess —
Procession — Cahelas — Visit to Youii — Craters and Battle Field —
-.Tamaahaah — Half-Caste School — Mrs. White's School — Young
Prince — Character of the Children — Nurse Eakeria — Her love for
Silas — Valuable Presents.
When in about 40° south latitude, our voyagers witnessed
a singular scene. For two or three hours they had been
followed by hundreds of black fish, and were loitering about
the deck, when suddenly, in all directions around them, the
sea seemed to be literally alive with what they discovered
to be porpoises. They were leaping about, apparently in
high glee, shining and flashing in the rays of the sun, in
creasing in numbers, until, as far as the eye could scan,
were seen the dancing, glittering multitude. It was a novel
sight, so entirely differing from any thing they had seen in
their voyage, they were enchanted.
They were now nearing the Sandwich Islands, and for a
day or two before descrying land, the crew, as well as pas
sengers, were all anxiety and expectation. They had be
come thoroughly wearied with their long confinement ; were
getting short of food, having been long since out of vegeta
bles, for want of which one of the company had been at
tacked with that dreadful disease, the scurvy. As the ship

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 43
had been victualed for the whole passage, none had set foot
on land since the day of their leaving Boston. The reader
may conceive their delight at the prospect of again landing
on terra firma, as they had been out one hundred and forty-
eight days.
About three o'clock one afternoon, they came in sight of
the heights of Owyhee, apparently large masses of blacken
ed rocks, the remains of volcanic eruptions.
The signal for a pilot was promptly answered, and they
had the happiness of seeing one putting out to them with
all speed. He was about seventy years of age, clad in a
linen jacket and trousers, and his hair vying with his clothes
in whiteness, although he was otherwise of youthful appear
ance. He was a wealthy merchant from Boston, a man of
considerable intelligence in many respects, agreeable man
ners, and with Dr. White and his lady was soon on excellent
terms. He was skeptical on the subject of religion, as the
following speech of his will show : " The mercantile and
missionary enterprises are of much the same stamp ; both
alike profitable schemes for speculation." His new friends
afterwards became much attached to him, and will ever re
member with gratitude his kindness ; for after their depar
ture from the islands, he repeatedly sent them presents of
value, such as teas, sugars, cloths, &c. — till they left Oregon
to return to their native land, he manifested for them the
sincerest friendship. Between sunset and twilight they
dropped anchor in the bay of Honolulu. That evening Dr.
White and Mr. Wilson went on shore with the pilot, leaving
the ladies lamenting that they had not the like privilege.
To add to their loneliness and feeling of desertion, the offi
cers also went ashore, abandoning them to the tender offices
of the hands, who seemed striving with one another in keep-

44 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
ing the most perfect silence. Their work was at last done,
for a brief space at least ; they were emphatically enjoying
"rest from their labors."
The next morning the gentlemen returned, bringing with
them a quantity of bananas, cucumbers, and water-melons,
and a pitcher of milk for coffee — and ' such a breakfast as
they made ! The cucumbers, sliced up in vinegar, were de
licious ; and the melons and bananas, although more tasteless
than our fruits, were fine ; and thanks and gratitude swelled
the bosoms of the partakers, to the great Creator and Giver
of these bounties.
They were that day visited by, and introduced to, Messrs.
Bingham and Smith, and received kind invitations to their
houses, which were thankfully accepted, and they accompa
nied them to the town, where they also received visits from
the resident missionaries, who dined with them, and with
whom they had a very interesting conference meeting, and
who joined with them in returning thanks to the Almighty
for their preservation from the dangers which had beset
them in their long and perilous voyage.
The company were distributed in different places, and be
ing followed in a few days by their effects, were, to be brief,
finally settled in their winter quarters. During their first
dinner, they were muck amused by the appearance of the
native assistants, one of whom stood at each end of the table,
clad in their single tappa garment, thrown over their shoul
der in the form of a blanket, and gazing slyly at the stran
gers, with looks of great curiosity ; while they were in their
turn, equally unceremonious. They gravely determined
within themselves, that they would have no such slightly
apparelled creatures about them. But in a short time they
became accustomed to the singularity, and, compelled by

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 45
the sultriness of the climate, in some measure imitated their
example. Of the natives they saw great numbers, as they
could not well do Otherwise ; for on leaving the ship, the
shore was covered with them, to witness their landing ; and
the next Sabbath they were at church to the number of a
thousand, shaming even the churches at home, by their
grave and careful attention to the services. They not only
performed the domestic services, but all the manual labor
of the islands. On public occasions, their dress was entirely
European. Those of the females was principally black and
white, the materials satin, silk, or cotton cloth, and straw
hats of their own manufacture. It will be remembered,
that, owing to the proximity of China, silks and such articles
were obtained much cheaper than in this country.
It was ludicrous to witness their attempts at imitating the
foreign ladies in their dress. They were frequently seen
flaunting about the streets in the richest of satins, perfectly
stockingless, and heavy shoes, with soles of half an inch
thickness. The raiment worn by the men resembled the
summer clothing worn by Americans.
About this time occurred the death of the king's sister.
Dr. and Mrs. White visited her during her illness, and were
likewise present on the funeral occasion. It was one of the
most imposing ceremonies they ever witnessed. Notwith
standing, in Washington, they afterwards attended the fu
nerals of senators and other distinguished men, they could
not compare with this in augustness and splendor. By
some means, probably embalming, the lady was preserved
unburied for a month, and every day the people had hours
of wailing, which were without intermission from early in
the morning till about nine o'clock in the forenoon. The
sounds to which they gave utterance, were, with the excep-

46 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
tion of the howling of wolves, the most dismal that could be
imagined. This rite was continued till the day of the bur
rial, when every thing was conducted in the most decorous
manner. At sunrise began the firing of cannon at intervals,
like the tolling of a bell. The national, or king's guard of
five hundred men, then convened, and were soon in full
array, and the coffin was brought forward and placed under
their charge, while the procession was forming. First walk
ed the king, leaning on the arm of Mr. Jones, the American
consul. The dress of the sovereign was really dazzling.
One article alone, his coat, he had imported from England
at the cost of a thousand dollars, and it was a truly gorge
ous thing. It was of the most superb quality of cloth, plen
tifully decorated with gold lace and buttons, and the nicest
workmanship was lavished upon it. Next him came the
chiefs and chiefesses (as they are called) of blood, the most
respectable of the foreign residents, missionaries ; and in the
rear followed an immense concourse of the common people,
wearing an aspect more mournful and becoming the occa
sion than the stately, splendid group preceding them to the
solemn music of a march. The cahelas were perhaps the
most singular features of the spectacle. These, the doctor
says, he is unable to describe, otherwise than that they
were poles, the size of a man's arm, from twelve to fifteen
feet in length. Two-thirds the length from the top, was
covered with feathers of the most costly kind, so much so
that probably the amount expended on the two could not
have been less than two or three thotisand dollars. They
were obtained, with the greatest difficulty, from rare species
of birds, inhabiting the mountains. The colors were red,
white, yellow, and black. They were singularly beautiful,
softly reflecting the rays of light, with a velvet richness, as

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 47
they were borne on the shoulders of men immediately in
advance of the monarch. In the burying ground were seen
several planted on the graves of the dead, soiled and discol
ored by the weather.
On the group of islands there were several small towns,
but Honolulu, of Oahu, was one of the most consequence
among them, containing perhaps from ten to twelve thou
sand inhabitants.
They did not visit each of the islands ; but receiving an
invitation from the missionaries, Gulick and Whitney, Dr.
and Mrs. White visited them at Youii ; and the prosperity
of their friends tended much to encourage them in their ar
duous undertaking.
They visited, or rather saw, the extinguished craters of
several volcanos, and passed in view of the field where was
fought one of the most eventful contests of the last two cen
turies, and which secured to the last king, Tamaahaah, the
whole of the Sandwich group. He was a man of shrewd
ness and cunning, possessing many good qualities, and, es
pecially in the latter part of his life, was much beloved by
his subjects.
During their five months' stay at the islands, being en
tirely without occupation, it was proposed to the doctor to
take the place of Mr. Johnson, the teacher of the half-caste
school. Mrs. White was similarly engaged. There had
never been a school established fori;he children of the white
inhabitants, and they had therefore honored her by proffer
ing her the charge of one. Thus time hung less heavily on
their hands than it would otherwise have done.
With one exception, the scholars of Mrs. White's school
were white. The little adopted son of the king was a pupil
when it suited his convenience. The young prince always

48 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
came in somewhat imposing style, never accompanied by
less than six attendants. One drew his little carriage, and
one walked on either side, and the others performed such
services as he required at their hands. While he was in
school, they remained on the green before the house, not
being allowed to receive instructions with their youthful
master. The members of the school were all young, the elder
ones having been sent to the United States to obtain their
education. They were perfectly good and gentle. As they
had never been exposed to improper influences, they knew
nothing of evil, and their mstructress fondly imagined that
even angels could scarce be purer than these dear children.
During his mother's labors, Silas was left at home, con
signed to the care of his native nurse, Kakeria, who was de
votedly attached to her charge, moaning and weeping over
him bitterly when she thought of his approaching departure
for Oregon, imprinting upon his young face kisses of the
tenderest affection. She was a most maternal creature, and
a treasure to her mistress, because of her cheerful, faithful
services. The parents expressed great gratitude to the instructors
of their children, and presented them gifts of much value.
Captain Charlton, the English consul, and Mr. Jones, the
American consul, each sent them a fine cow ; as also did
Mr. Whitney, of Youii. Their new commander, Captain
Hinckly, unwilling to be outdone in kindness, generously
gave the animals their keeping ; and Mr. Hooper placed on
board two barrels of molasses. Numberless were the kind
nesses of their many friends.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 49

CHAPTER V.
Spring and preparations to leave the Sandwich Islands— Benefit to
them of their residence there — Engage passage on board ship — Food
and water— Windy and boisterous — Great loss — Contents of the
Boxes sent on board by Pilot Reynolds ; his wife — Interesting young
man; his marriage with a native woman — Mr. Grimes — Suc
cession of Storms — Endeavor to cross the Bar of the Columbia —
Desperation of the Captain — Crossing — Lulling of the Winds — Ba
ker's Bay — Rest— View — Varieties of Trees; their enormous size —
King Chenamus and his Consort ; his Intoxication ; their Dress —
Aground three times — Visitor — Invitation to the Shore — First Canoe
ride — Arrival at Astoria — Residence of Mr. Birney— Beds for the
Night. Spring was now approaching, and with it thoughts of
leaving the pleasant home and friends to which they had be
come much attached. They were sorrowful, but duty bade
them on to the wilds of Oregon, and they accordingly made
their preparations. They were benefited by their residence
at the islands, for they had learned much of missionary la
bors, and the course which they must in part pursue.
They embarked on board the Diana, Captain Hinckley,
and found that, unlike the vessel they had before sailed in,
this was provided with a variety of good, wholesome provis
ions. They were thirty days at sea, and had a very bois
terous passage ; but nothing more disastrous occurred than
the death of their English cow, which to the children was a
misfortune, as they were thereby deprived of milk.
After they had been out a fortnight, and the weather

TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

had become somewhat calm, they felt a curiosity to open
the three boxes which had been sent on board by Pilot Rey
nolds, mentioned in the last chapter, labelled to Dr. White.
In the first they found a dozen bottles of wine, in the second
eight of brandy, all invaluable in sickness, and in the third
pepper, spices, cassia, tea, sugar, and every such article
as Mrs. White needed on going to housekeeping. They
had often seen Reynolds while at the. islands, and endeavor
ed to learn something of his former history. But in this
they were disappointed. They had heard him speak much
of his children. One morning Mrs. White went into his
store on some trifling errand, when she saw a native woman
behind one of the counters. She was dressed in black satin,
with a wreath of rare and beautiful feathers upon her head,
and was a tall, fine looking creature, of rather noble ap- *
pearance. After the usual compliments, Mr. Reynolds,
turning to her, said, "Mrs. White, the mother of my chil
dren." This was a singular introduction, and she was rea
sonably surprised, especially as before she had never heard
him mention his wife, and besides, this was the first instance
she had ever seen of a colored woman* being the wife of a
white man.
A young man who left Boston with them, afterwards
married a native woman. He was a man, who, from his
acquirements and deportment, would have been judged pos
sessed of too much pride to form a connexion considered so
degrading. His intellect was of a high order. He was well
educated, and it was a treat, which the passengers often
sought, to converse with him a few moments when he could
be released from his duties ; for, owing to his not very pros-
* The complexion of the native is midway between the African and
Indian of this country.

TEN TEARS IN OREGON. 51
perous circumstances, he had gone before the mast to work
his passage to the islands, where his father was residing. As
there were so few young ladies in the country, he could have
returned to the states for a wife, if so disposed; for he was
so prospered that he could have done so with propriety
as did another gentleman, named Grimes, a passenger, who
would have been suspected as being more likely to take the
opposite course. He was almost the reverse of Pitman — his
inferior in both intelligence and education. - He went out
as clerk for an uncle; and five years after, when they re
turned, he accompanied them, a wealthy merchant, married
a lady in New England, and then returned to the islands.
Nothing of particular interest occured, till they neared
the bar of the Columbia river, where lay the greatest danger
they encountered, although for three days before they reach
ed it, there was a succession of storms. The danger far ex
ceeded their expectations, for they crossed under the most
unfavorable circumstances that probably a. vessel ever did.
Their pilot had not been on the spot for twenty-two
years, and the captain never had. When near it, the ship
was obliged to lay to, on account of the violence of the
storm ; and when this had in a slight degree^ abated, they
were half a day making vain endeavors to get into the river.
The captain, however, became more desperate and deter
mined, continually fortifying his wavering courage by deep
quaffs of brandy. At last they reached the plaqe of per^l,
and he thundered forth orders to put the vessel forward. It
was done, and they expected every moment that destruction
would overwhelm them, for they saw and heard the roar of
breakers just ahead, and it was impossible to determine then-
precise situation, shrouded and enveloped as they were witji.
spray. However, this nightmare was soon ended; for, as

52 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
Providence would have it, they struck the channel, although
not yet out of danger ; for, the wind lulling, and the ebb tide so
strong, the captain, fearful they would be carried back into
the sands, and thus inevitably perish, ordered the dropping
of the anchors.* After a while the winds rose, a favorable
breeze set in, and they came in view of Cape Disappointment
again, and were soon harbored in Baker's Bay, and in com
parative safety. The evening passed quietly, and they dwelt
largely on the pleasure they anticipated for the morrow, in
treading once more the shores of America, although so dis
tant from their native homes. Even the good brig Diana
seemed enjoying perfect rest in her snug harbor, after having
been so long the sport of boisterous winds and waves.
Morning light stole upon them, and opened to their view a
scene altogether new and interesting. Cape Disappointment
lay on their left, several hundred feet above the level of the
sea, commanding a stupendous view of both land and water.
The whole cliff and coast were covered with trees and herb
age differing from any thing they had seen in other countries.
There they found the red and white fir, spoken of by Clark
and Lewis, as growing to such amazing height — sometimes
from two hundred and seventy to three hundred feet high,
* To cross the bar, bring Cape Disappointment to bear north-east,
then lead up until Cheenook Point bears east by north, which you steer
for until you have the cape north or north by eait, when you have a
scant wind from north-west. I have even hauled up for it when north-
north-east, bordering upon the north breakers; but keep in four fath
oms, lead close along the cape to avoid the spit sand, and continue to
run into Baker's Bay until you have Point Ellice and Tongue Point
shut in thus X-when you can lead along to Baker* Bay, taking care
to haul out gradually as you cross it, until you have Point Ellice and
Tongue Point well open, so that you may avoid the lying to windward
of Cheenook Point.— Slacum's Chart.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 53
resembling the hemlock in leaf and bark. They also af
terwards saw at Astoria the tree mentioned by the above
named gentlemen, felled a few years since by a party of Ca
nadian Frenchmen, who supposed it to be the largest in the
world. Four feet above the roots, it measured fifty-seven
feet nine inches, and was in the vicinity of three hundred feet
in height, perfectly sound, and just as they had represented
it in their official reports.
In that section were wanting many varieties of trees which
grow in this country, nor did the doctor afterwards find
them during his absence from the states, such as the
black and white walnut, hickory, sugar maple, and chest
nut ; but in their stead the white oak in its most scrubby
form, some pine, large quantities of cedar, ash, laurel, yew,
hazel, and alder. It was about the ninth of May — many
sorts of flowers were in bloom, and their walks were really
delightful. For the first time they now saw King Chenamus and his
consort, who visited them on board, to their no small amuse
ment, and some mortification, as he had not been long with
them when he became stupidly intoxicated, for the captain
could not resist his pertinacious pleadings for strong drink.
Captain Cushing afterwards built a brig, and named it after
this chief. Although he was sty-led king, he held it not at
all derogatory to his dignity to guide the ship up the river,
as no other pilot could be obtained. The dress of this wor
thy consisted of a single blanket, thrown carelessly over his
shoulder, and the queen's was similar, excepting that she
wore a pair of leggins.
Every thing passed off very pleasantly, till the second
day's sail up the river, and the voyagers were rejoicing in the
thought that their troubles were ended, when, in conse-

54 TEN YEARS TN OREGON.
quence of the tide leaving them, or the pilot's or captain's
ignorance of the channel, they ran aground. This happen
ed three times, till at last, in sight of Astoria, the vessel
was thrown almost upon her beam's ends.
While in this condition they discovered a white man put
ting out to them in his canoe, and although a stranger, they
welcomed him with the joy they would have done an old
friend. He remained with them till dusk, when he kindly in
vited the passengers to the shore, which invitation the cap
tain advised them to accept. He was anxious respecting the
safety of his ship, as, in her exposed position, if even a slight
squall struck her, she must be hopelessly wrecked.
They accordingly embarked, some of them, Mrs. White
among the number, in the little canoe, and others in the
boats. This was the first sail Mrs. White had taken in a
craft of this sort ; and while seated on its bottom, she trem
bled more with terror than she had done on board the
stranded vessel. Indeed it was a timerous mode of trav
elling. When they reached Fort George, now Astoria, it was
about ten o'clock in the evening, and they were conducted
up a gentle declivity, perhaps one hundred and fifty yards
from the landing, to the residence of Mr. Birney, clerk of the
trading post at that place, where they were handsomely wel
comed by him and his wife, a very pretty native woman.
When they entered their house, they were much impressed
With its homelike appearance. A bright fire blazed cheer
fully on the hearth, the fir floor was scrubbed clean and
neat, and the pine table was of snowy whiteness. Fur
niture was scarce, indeed, the only seats being low, wooden
benches. It was soon time to retire, and they looked around for en-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 55
trances to other chambers, or couches on which to lay their
wearied frames ; but there were neither, and so they were,
perforce, obliged, some with blankets, to be sure, to seek the
softest spot on the hard planks, and stretch themselves there
on ; thankful that, in addition to the floor for a bed, they
had not the rocking of the vessel to disturb their slumbers,

56 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

CHAPTER*VL
Size of Astoria — The Diana still aground — Preparations to go to Fort
Vancouver — One eyed Pilot George — Remonstrances of Friends —
Mrs. White's Resolution — Leaving Astoria — Singing of the Crew —
Beauty of the Shores — Reflections — Seeking for a place to Camp —
Startling Incident — Camping — Tale of the " Petrified Sister."
From the fame of Astoria, they supposed it to be a fort
of considerable strength ; and great was their disappoint
ment at finding, besides Mr. Birney's, but two other houses,
and those built of logs, and enclosed by rail fences. How
ever, the place occupied a very beautiful site, commanding a
fine view of a romantic country, and also of the noble river,
which was here two miles wide. Till four o'clock in the af
ternoon, they anxiously awaited the arrival of the ship, that
they might proceed on to Fort Vancouver. But there was
no prospect of her immediate release from her perilous situ
ation ; and it was proposed to despatch an express to the
fort, and Dr. White was informed that himself and another
could accompany it if they chose, and he decided on doing so.
The guide is worthy of a passing notice, although not a
dignitary of the highest standing. He was a brawny, ath
letic Indian, with but one eye ; and from his partiality for
England and its monarch, they called him "pilot George."
Notwithstanding his unfortunate deformity, he probably un
derstood his business better than any man on the river. Un
like his race generally, he was not at all taciturn, and was
the most able linguist of his color in the section, having a

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 5*1
smattering of French and English, and many of the tongues
of his country. Excepting him, they could not converse
with one of the crew save by signs. All the missionaries
shrank from accompanying the doctor, and remonstrated
warmly against his thus jeopardizing his safety, by ventur
ing, unguarded, through a strange country, not knowing the
dangers to which he might be exposed, and affirming they
had no confidence in the fidelity of his companions.
He remained unshaken in his decision, and Mrs. W., not
withstanding repeated dissuasions, and the descriptions she
had read and heard of the treachery peculiar to the Indian
character, overcame her natural womanly timidity, and firmly
expressed her determination to share with her husband the
perils of the. voyage.
Their preparations were soon made, and they were but
small and hasty ; and at five o'clock, having taken leave of
Mr. Birney and their friends, seated themselves in their little
bark, those they left behind watching them with tearful
eyes and swelling hearts.
As they receded from the shore, the crew began singing
cheerily a native song, till the shore rang again with the mel
ody, keeping as exact time with their paddles as could the
most scientific of New England singing masters. In about
twenty minutes they rounded Tongue Point, two miles dis
tant from Astoria, and were hidden from the gazers on shore,
For several miles they passed rapidly along, feasting their eyes
upon the most imposing and romantic scenery. On either
side were towering mountains, solemn forests and pleasant
glades, where the beams of the setting sun crept gently,
and rested lovingly on the soft greensward. Involuntarily
their thoughts wandered back to the time when our country,
Untenanted by the palefaces, with all its picturesque love-

58 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
liness, was the home and property of the red man ; when
he roamed through its vast solitudes, undaunted by fears
of a race then unknown to him, which has since become his
pitiless persecutor. They caught themselves gazing pity
ingly at their companions, almost fancying that their mu
sings partook of a similar nature, for their dark faces were
grave and thoughtful, and their song had died on their lips.
Twilight stole upon them, and with it thoughts and scenes
of things far distant, home and kindred, and they were
silent, for their fancies would not clothe themselves in words.
The voice of the pilot broke the stillness, as he proposed
seeking some spot on shore, on which to pass the night.
They acquiesced, and the men paddled more slowly, while he
searched from side to side for a landing place. Suddenly
he pointed in a certain direction, and whispered between his
closed teeth, hist ! and following with their eyes, they saw
a light smoke rising from the tops of the trees. He con
sulted the men in whispers a few moments, and then turned
the head of the canoe towards the spot. Slowly and cau
tiously they floated on, and a sort of panic seized upon the
two spectators, and their recollection called before them
deeds of horror, done in places and under circumstances less
suited to their performance than this. At length they shot
into a little nook, and the men rested upon their paddles.
Before them, near a large fire, sat an Indian man and wo
man, so intent upon what seemed to be cooking, that the
intruders dropped noiselessly along to within thirty yards of
them before they were discovered. When their eyes rested
upon them, they started to their feet, and a loud, sharp 'ugh !'
rang through the forest. With his rifle pointed at the boat,
the man glided to a tree, and skulked from one to another
till quite near it, when he sprang into a thicket and disap-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 59
peared, much to their relief, for they bad each instant ex
pected that one of the party would fall by the deadly aim
of the savage. It would have been a rich subject for Coop
er, with his peculiar genius, to dwell upon. The crew
seemed perfectly undisturbed by the aspect of affairs, sitting
quietly through the scene, and then walking composedly
towards the fire, where they were in a few moments joined
by the strange Indian. They stood together for several
moments, apparently without speaking, when the pilot went
to the shore, and motioned the occupants of the boat to come
forward. The strangers watched them closely, but allowed
them to advance without interruption, probably convinced
of their inoffensiveness. After a time, the woman stole out
from among the trees, and, seating herself beside her hus
band, they were both soon quite friendly. They presented
their visitors with some wapatoes, which they had roasted,
which, although they were not as delicious as the best of
potatoes, as their appetites were sharpened, tasted well.
After supper, they were sufficiently wearied to sleep, and
therefore drew the canoe ashore, and in it composed them
selves to rest under the shelter of blankets. They slept
sweetly and undisturbed till nearly sunrise, when they were
awakened by the rocking of the boat, and found that by the
rising of the tide, they were almost afloat.
After breakfast they were again on their way, and had
not been long on the river> when they passed the tree, high
in the branches of which, was lodged the body of the " pet
rified or preserved sister." The story, although it carried
with it a strong appearance of improbability, the doctor had
no inclination to disbelieve, as he afterwards heard it repeat
edly from Mr. Birney and Dr. Townsend, who were at the
time travelling through the country with Mr. Nutall, the

60 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
famous botanist, and others who were acquainted with the
facts, for a tale of truth.
Near the place, several years previous, had lived an In
dian family, of which little was known, save the following
circumstance :
A daughter, perhaps between sixteen and eighteen years
of age, was afflicted with a long and painful illness. She
had a brother, by whom she was passionately beloved, who
would sit hours by her bedside, clasping her hand in his,
and bending upon her looks of pity and affection. When
she died, his distress and grief knew no bounds, and he had
her obsequies performed in a manner entirely differing from
the usual custom of the tribe. She was dressed in her
holyday robes and ornaments, placed carefully upon mats
in a canoe, and suspended in the topmost boughs of an alder.
So far as can be learned, this people are unacquainted with
any art of embalming, and there is, therefore, no reason for
supposing that the youth resorted to such means ; but cer
tain it is, that he visited her weekly, mourning over the dear
remains ; and after some time elapsed, he announced that
he did not believe his sister was dead, as she had not begun
to decay in the least. The friends repaired to the spot, and
found it as he had said, that not the slightest trace of de
composition could be discovered. This phenomenon contin
ued for seven or eight years, at which time Dr. Townsend
happening to hear the wonderful stories of the " young girl
who had been petrified by a brother's tears," determined to
obtain a sight of her. This he succeeded in doing unob
served, and found the body in a most perfect state of pres
ervation, wearing, in every particular, a semblance of youth
and freshness. He was stricken with amazement, and imme
diately resolved to steal her away and bring her to the

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 61
United States, where he was certain she would be to him
of immense value, as, never within his knowledge, had such
a wonder been exhibited there. He accomplished the busi
ness so far as getting the corpse from the tree, and even
conveying it to Astoria, where Mr. Birney was fearful of the
consequences, if the act was detected. The sequel showed
his apprehensions were justifiable ; for, in a day or two, the
brother, on his first visit to the tree, discovered that the ca
noe was vacant, and immediately suspected Dr. Townsend,
or some of the whites, for none of his own race would be
guilty of disturbing the repose of the dead. Transported
with rage and grief, he immediately assembled a band of
braves, and, armed and horridly painted, they presented
themselves at the door of the fort, and he demanded the body
of his sister. At first Dr. Townsend disclaimed all knowledge
of it, but upon Mr. Birney's representing to him the danger
they incurred, himself especially, as they firmly declared
they would sacrifice him to their vengeance, he reluctantly
consented to its delivery. They received the corpse with
every demonstration of reverence, and, carrying it back, de
posited it in its former resting place, where it was not again
disturbed. It was now supposed that the situation of the
body, so high in the air, and the sea at no great distance,
the saltness of the atmosphere prevented putrescency hav
ing any power over it.

62 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

CHAPTER VII.
Indian Village— Kindness of an Indian Woman— New kind of Um
brella—Accident—Meeting with Dr. Talmie— Killing an Eagle-
Arrival at the Fort — Garden and Plantation — Arrival of the Diana —
Mr. Jason Lee— Raillery of Miss Pitman— Mr. Lee's Introduction-
Leaving the Fort— Captain Hinckley's officiousness— Laughable ar
rangement—Boat races — Conclusion respecting Mr. Lee — Putting
in for the night— Supper and walk— Pond— Pleasant sail— Willa
mette Falls— A tradition— Bargain— Portage— Elk Bluff— Pudding
River— Arrival at Battens de porte McKoys— Letter— Departure for
the Mission — Delightful journey — Arrival at their destination — Miss
Downing and Mr. Shepherd — His appearance — Two thousand two
hundred miles journey ended — First dinner.
Near the tree connected with the foregoing tale, the river
abounded in small islands, which, during the June freshets
and flood tides, were nearly hidden from sight. The valley
or bottom of the river here was wide, but the channel nar
row, winding and difficult. Towards noon, the voyagers
arrived in sight of an Indian hamlet, which consisted of a
row of buildings, if I may so call them, not less than a hun
dred feet in length, and perhaps thirty in width, formed by
planting in the ground poles, perhaps twenty-five feet long,
notching the ends, with others extending from each to each,
and placing against them barks, the whole resembling the
roof of a house. Towards this pilot George directed the
crew to row, and as they approached the shore, large num
bers of both sexes and all sizes, flocked to the beach. They
seemed to be in a state of great poverty and destitution.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 63
Their slight clothing was of skins, and almost their only food
salmon. One of the women seeing the child, came forward
with a large piece of fish in her hand, the grease trickling
through her brown fingers, and offered it to him. After
some little repugnance, Mrs. White took it and gave it to
Silas, who, with less fastidiousness than his mother, eagerly
devoured it.
They tarried here but a short time, and had been on the
river an hour longer, when the heat was so excessive, that
Mrs. White suffered extremely with sickness and head-ache.
They now felt the need of an umbrella, which they had
been unable to get from the vessel, for they were destitute
of any screen to shield them from the scorching rays. They
pushed to the shore, and, procuring branches of the yew,
fastened them to a staff. From the shade of this they ex
perienced sensible relief, and the Indians chaunting a low,
mellow song, a drowsiness crept over the senses of Mrs.
White, and, yielding to the soothing influence, she fell into
a refreshing sleep.
Towards evening a light breeze sprang up, and they
hoisted a sail. This was done by fastening a blanket to a
long pole, in imitation of the mainmast of a ship. As the
wind freshened, they raised another similar, which very much
increased their speed. As they were passing round a sharp
point, a puff of wind struck one of the sails, and, loosening a
corner, turned the canoe far on its side, imminently endan
gering the safety of its occupants, and giving them a hearty
fright. At this moment Dr. Talmie, from the fort above, hove in
sight, on his way to the Cowerlitz settlement. He saw the
accident, and hastened to the spot, without the expectation
of finding a single survivor, and assuring them that it was

64 ten years In Oregon.
little less than a miracle that they were saved. They foUna
him a pleasant, intelligent young man. His cordiality and
friendship interested them much ; and their past danger was
forgotten in the happiness of meeting him. He informed
them that they were about thirty miles from their destina
tion, and after a cheerful chat with him, they separated,
much pleased with their short interview. The river now
gradually widened; the hills were not so high, and they
passed many ash and elm swamps, which, like the islands
during the June freshets, were completely inundated. Dur
ing the other parts of the year, they are very valuable for
grazing purposes, as rushes grow there in great abundance,
but are nearly useless for cultivation.
As they sailed on, they saw, far up the river, a speck in
the sky, which they observed with much curiosity ; it enlarg
ed as it neared them, and finally proved to be an eagle, the
first they had seen. It alighted on a large tree at some dis
tance, and the Indians paddled swiftly towards it, till within
fifty or sixty yards, when, with characteristic Indian stealth-
iness, they floated silently a few moments, while one of
them prepared his gun to fire. The noble bird sat proud
ly in his lofty station, unaware of approaching danger, and
our friends looked on him with pity, as he received the dead
ly contents of the weapon. For a moment he sat motionless,
when he suddenly toppled and wavered, and then came
hurtling over and over through the air to the ground. With
a shout of triumph, his destroyer leaped ashore to secure his
prize. This, however, he did not find easy ; for the bird was
yet alive, and, even in his death-throes, singularly strong,
and fought desperately a long time. At last he succeeded
in killing him, and they found him unusually large, meas-

TES TEARS IN OREGON. 65
tiring from tip to tip of his extended wings, nearly nine feet.
His piercing eyes, noble white head, and majestic form, in
terested the spectators.
The shades of evening were now falling around them, and
they sped rapidly towards the fort, which they reached
about midnight, thoroughly wearied ; the monotony of the
solitary, gloomy evening's journey, unbroken, save by the
repeated firing of heavy muskets, to apprise its inhabitants
of their approach. The noise rolled and reverberated like
thunder through the hills, awakening the echoes, and re
turning with singular effect. The crew took possession of
their effects, and pilot George led the way to the gate, little
more than half a mile distant. They rapped loudly at the
portal, and were answered from within by the barking of
dogs. In a few moments they heard a heavy step, and a
gruff voice roughly demanded "who's there!" They an
swered that they were strangers from the states. The gate
was thrown open, and they were admitted by Captain
Holmes, commander of the ship Vancouver, who was after
wards drowned in the pilot boat at Fort George. They
were next politely introduced to John McLaughlin, presi
dent of the Hudson's Bay Company west of the Rocky
Mountains. This dignified, white-headed old gentleman,
was kind and affable in his manners, and had a thousand
questions to ask, particularly of the difficulty between the
United States and England, upon the Maine question, which
was just then breaking out. Refreshments were ordered,
and they sat down to a plain but excellent board ; after
which the steward spread their mats and blankets upon the
birth-like fixtures, then the only beds of the country, and
they retired for the night.
The next morning they rose early, and on leaving the
5

06 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
house, found themselves in an enclosure of stockades, of
perhaps three acres. This was all the fortification the place
could boast. In this enclosure, on one side, were stores
and groceries, and on the other, mechanics' shops of all
kinds, carried on with as much precision and regularity as
in any town of New England. The ground unoccupied by
buildings was sodded, and grass was springing up in freshness
and beauty. In the rear, was an extensive garden and or
chard, containing many, and some rare, sorts of vegetables,
and English fruits in considerable abundance. After break
fast, the governor politely invited the doctor to accompany
him to the plantation, where, to his great surprise, he found
a large -collection of horses, sheep and neat stock.
As they were returning homeward by the river side, at a
mile's distance on their right, they saw the Diana in full sail
for the fort, where she soon arrived, bringing safely their
cargo and all the missionaries. The doctor, on his arrival at
the fort, had, through the kindness of Dr. McLaughlin, sent
a despatch to Mr. Jason Lee, superintendent, requesting
him to meet and escort the party to his station, southward
about seventy miles distant, on the Willamette.
The day following the coming of their friends from Asto
ria, there was a storm of wind, and in the midst of it they
descried two canoes, laboring with great difficulty up the
river, and by the aid of his glass, Governor McLaughlin an
nounced that Mr. Lee was approaching. Hereupon, signif
icant, mischievous glances were cast at Miss Pitman, and
many remarks made not a little teazing and provoking. She
bore it well, though not without some shrinking. They all
sat in a room commanding a view of the gate, and soon saw
from it Mr. Lee approaching with enormous strides ; he asw
over six feeUn height, broad shouldered, slightly bent, and

TEN YEAHS IN OREGON. 6?
somewhat ungainly in his motions. As he came forward,
each opened upon Miss Pitman a pretty severe fire of rail
lery, till she became considerably agitated. He entered the
room, and was introduced by Mr. McLaughlin to Dr. White.
They greeted each other cordially, and he, in turn, present
ed him to the others, reserving Miss Pitman till the last ;
and when they met, a shower of smiling looks were turned
upon her. She exerted herself to throw off her embarrass
ment. A light blush rose to her cheek, and a slight trepi
dation, which added to the charm of her manner, was all the
evidence that she was conscious of any peculiarity in her
position. That Mr. Lee was pleased, could be easily discov
ered from the complaisance of his bearing, and the trouble he
took to render himself agreeable.
The next afternoon the expedition started for their final
destination. Captain Hinckley made himself very officious
in the arrangements, which was accounted for -from the fact
that his wife was to accompany them. Each person haJl
their place assigned them, and poor Miss Pitman found her
self with Mr. Lee, the last to leave the shore. She stood in
mueh embarrassment, depending upon the captain for a seat ;
and the spectators now found what had made him so active,
for he handed her to a canoe where there were none but
natives, unable to comprehend a word of English, and seat
ed Mr. Lee by her side for a two days' journey. It was a
severe joke upon both, for it was not only in the presence
of the missionaries, but of all the English residents of the
fort, and they well understood it, as could plainly be seen
from the ready smiles that circulated from face to face of
the whole company. It was a fine afternoon, and the little
caravan pushed off cheerily.
Durino- their voyage, racing afforded them much amuse-

68 TEN TEARS IN OTIEGON.
ment. They were accompanied by Mr. Whitcomb, from the
Sandwich Islands, who had been officer of a vessel, and Mr.
Wilson, and they were both good rowers.
Mr. Lee prided himself on his skill, and with reason, too,
for after long and doubtful contests he would come off vic
tor, and it was jokingly conceded that he was just the man
for superintendent ; as, in spite of all efforts to the contrary,
he would take the lead.
Till sunset, they travelled merrily on, — the boats passing
and repassing, sometimes so closely that their jolly crews
could join hands, — when they put into a little nook to encamp
for the night. Here they found a beautiful oak orchard
grove, and made preparations to rest under its pleasant
shade. They made a supper of salmon, potatoes, bread, nice but
ter, and tea, after which they gave themselves the pleasure
of a stroll on the lawn, as it might be termed ; short prairie
grass, which grew very delicately, in the shadow of the trees.
They loitered on till they reached a gentle eminence, from
which they had a superb view of a broad lake-like pond, its
bosom literally teeming with geese, wild ducks and swans.
At eleven o'clock the next day, after a delightful sail,
they arrived at the falls of the Willamette. These are
about thirty-eight feet in height, and are situated in a ro
mantic spot, is one of the finest and most eligible places for
water privileges in Oregon. It is, and perhaps ever will be,
famed in Indian annals for being the scene of events dear to
the recollection of the red man.
It seems the country about the falls was once inhabited
by a tribe, at the head of which was a chief, whose standing
was similar to that of dictator. He was noted far and wide
for his great powers of mind, and, unlike his race, was kind

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 69
and generous to his people, and never restricted or infringed
upon their rights, and studied to gratify them in every re
spect consistent with what he conceived to be his duty.
His noble nature revolted at every thing like despotism,
and yet he ruled his subjects perfectly through their affec
tions. They loved him as they would have done a dear
father. He was, in fact, their idol ; and to him were ren
dered honors as were never before granted a single chieftain
in the western world. When he attended council, he was
borne thither upon a mat litter, on the shoulders of eight
men. Indeed, could they have had their will, he never
would have gone abroad except in the arms of his subjects.
What is most singular, this affection and reverence never di
minished, and his latter years were cheered by the soothing
cares of his faithful friends. It is said to be about seventy
years since this chief expired, and he is still in tradition re
membered and deeply mourned by the scattered remnant of
his tribe. These are but few, for while living peacefully on
the banks of the Willamette, they in some manner incurred
the displeasure of a neighboring tribe, who came upon them,
and in a single night destroyed large numbers, and they have
never since regained their former prosperity. This event is
supposed to have taken place some fifty-six years since. At
this place the travellers were detained till one o'clock bar
gaining with the Indians, whom they found encamped in
large numbers, to transport their canoes and baggage round
the falls, over the steep, craggy rocks, which was too tedious
and difficult a task for themselves to undertake. At last they
agreed to do it for each five charges of ammunition, and in
addition a large cotton handkerchief for their chief. The
portage was made, and they were again afloat, now on
the Willamette, and shortly passed Elk Bluff, a precipice

70 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
seven hunnred feet in height. About sunset they reached
Pudding river, a tributary to the Willamette, and again en
camped as on the previous night. In an early day, those
who passed through the country, were obliged to travel in
large companies, on account of the number and hostility of
the natives. One of these parties, of the Hudson's Bay
Company, had been reduced to great extremities, almost
starvation, and with difficulty reached this place for encamp
ment. Here their sufferings were so great that they were
obliged to slay their horses for sustenance. Of the blood
they made puddings, and hence the name of the river.
The next morning they were again off in high glee, ex
pecting soon to reach a final landing. They arrived at Bat
tens de porte, McKoy's, at eight o'clock A. M., where they
were to obtain horses, and make the remainder of the jour
ney by land. This old hunter, who had accompanied Mr.
Hunt across the Rocky Mountains, in the service of John
Jacob Astor, received them with noble, warm hearted hos
pitality, truly pioneer-like.
Here Mr. Lee received a lettar from Mr. Daniel Lee, sta
ting that no less than twelve persons lay sick at the mission,
and some dangerously, begging Dr. White to hasten forward
with all possible despatch.
Accordingly, Mrs. Hinckley, Miss Downing, Miss Pitman,
Dr. White, and Mr. Wilson, started for the mission, sixteen
miles distant, leaving Mrs. White and the others to follow
at a less rapid rate.
They continually found features of country entirely new to
them. Here were broad prairies, covered with fine, nutri
tious grass, its greatest height not more than six inches,
studded thickly with the most delicately beautiful flowers
they had ever seen. They were all lovers of nature in her

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 71
beauty, and now had their fill of that kind of enjoyment,
which is derived from contemplating her in her mildest
mood and loveliest dress.
About the middle of the day they arrived at their desti
nation, the ladies somewhat wearied with their long ride.
Passing round the corner of a wood, they came in view of a
large log house, at which a boy, who had met them on their
way, pointed, saying, in broken English, " dat de mission."
As they approached, a tall, fine looking man, in a brown
liaen frock, apparently about thirty-five years of age, came
from the house. He started back on seeing them, and the
blood rushed to his face, but it was too late to retreat, and
he accordingly advanced to meet them. " Is that Mr. Shep
herd ?" mischievously whispered Mrs. Hinckley to Miss
Downing, Mr. Shepherd's bride elect. " It must be Mr.
Daniel Lee," returned she. However, she soon introduced
him as Mr. Shepherd.
The contrast in the dress of the two was laughably stri
king, and the purturbed face of the gentleman showed that
he was aware of it. She had attired herself neatly and
prettily, while he was clothed as I have mentioned. How
ever, his apology was that he was not aware that they were
quite so near. There were no ladies at the mission, so that
he was obliged to make all the preparations for the expected
arrival, and had apparelled himself according to his business.
The day was an era in the lives of our friends, and had not
the number of sick demanded all their attention, their minds
would have been engrossed by the reflection that their two
thousand two hundred miles' journey was at length ended,
and sombre forests and wide prairie were now to be their
home for years, if not for life.
They had often wondered, as the two Lees and Mr. Shep-

72 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
herd had kept bachelor's hall for several years, whether they
would not be embarrassed in their arrangements, by the
presence of ladies, and the thoughts again returned to their
minds, as they awaited the dinner hour. The table was
laid with a tidy brown linen cloth, bright tin plates, knives
and forks, and they partook with much zest of fried venison,
sausages, cheese, unbolted bread, butter and fried cakes, all
of Mr. Shepherd's manufacture, and very nice. At dessert
they were regaled with a bountiful dish of strawberries.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 73

CHAPTER VIH.
Mr. Daniel Lee — Stroll in the garden — Its beauty — Accommodations
— Mission children — Names — Sufferings of the chief — Improvements
Miss Pitman and Mr. Lee — The two marriages.
Just as they were sitting down to dinner, Mr. Daniel
Lee entered the house and gave them a warm greeting. As
he had been watching with the sick the night previous,
thinking to shake off his dullness, he had wandered into the
prairie, and after plucking a few berries, had thrown him
self down under a tree and fallen asleep, where he had re
mained several hours, which was the reason for his not ma
king his appearance sooner. His language was enthusiastic,
as he spoke of the benefit likely to accrue from the rein
forcement to the mission, and his glowing expressions cheered
and encouraged them in no small degree. This gentleman
was the nephew of Jason Lee, and had accompanied him on
his first expedition to the Rocky Mountains ; these two be
ing the first missionaries ever sent to that country.
After the repast, they rambled through the garden, ac
companied by Mr. Lee and half a dozen of the mission chil
dren. It was kept with more taste and neatness than the
one at the fort, although that was older, and therefore its
fruits more advanced ; but the vegetables and flowers were
quite as luxuriant and various. They were afterwards often
amused by Gov. McLaughlin sending a huge beet, or a few
rare specimens of fruit to Mr. Shepherd, challenging him to

74 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
produce their equal, which he more frequently excelled than
otherwise. The sick were strewed about the floor of the house on
mats and blankets, from which might be inferred that they
were not well accommodated ; but their conveniences were
as good as could be supplied in the small space occupied,
for there were fifty -four whites and Indians together, under
the roof, during the summer months, and the mansion was
not of extraordinary dimensions, being forty feet by eigh
teen. It would be supposed that the general health would
suffer in consequence ; but it did not.
The mission children have been mentioned, and we will
now return to them. There were, at that time, thirty-eight
of them, principally orphans, which these benevolent men
had rescued from great destitution, and were educating and
instructing in the arts of civilized life, and some of them had
made considerable advancement. For a time after their in
stalment with the whites, it was said they would exhibit all
the restlessness characteristic of the race, and wander off to
the prairies, often causing their kind protectors more trouble
to retain than to feed and clothe them. Several were
named after very grave individuals, such as Elijah Hedding,
William Brooks, Nathan Bangs and Wilber Fisk. The ca
reers of some of these were very eventful, especially Wil
liam Brooks, who died in the states, and Elijah Hedding ;
but I will speak of them more fully another time. The
night after the arrival of the new recruit, Dr. White was
called to minister to a great chief, named Sonick, about
two miles distant, who had been shot, while sleeping, by a
slave ; one ball carrying away a part of the under jaw, an
other wounding his breast, and a third entering his elbow and
lodging in the palm of the hand. He was terribly mutila-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 75
ted, and all excepting the doctor despaired of his life, and
he only entertaining a hope from his losing such a quantity
of blood, thereby preventing inflammation. His physical
sufferings were great, but his mental torture inexpressible,
being in continual fear that his enemy would yet hunt him
out and murder him. He lingered a long time and finally
recovered, but a most pitiable looking object. A few weeks
subsequent, a sickness began to be prevalent ; and the doc
tor suspecting that it was caused by impure atmosphere, on
carefully examining, found that large quantities of vegetable
matter, which had been washed up by a river freshet, was
in a state of decomposition. Also, about three hundred
yards in front of the house, was a thick clump of wood,
which prevented a free circulation of air from the prairie in
its rear. With the help of the boys this was remedied, and
the general health soon improved. They did not remove
the timber entirely, but climbed into the trees, and with their
hatchets lopped the branches, thereby accomplishing the
object, and sparing the noble trees, which they were un
willing to sacrifice.
This grove has connected with it many interesting associ
ations. Among them are the marriages of Mr. Lee and
Miss Pitman, Mr. Shepherd and Miss Downing. From the
moment that Mr. Lee and Miss Pitman so tamely submitted
to Capt. Hinckey's orders at Fort Vancouver, an attachment
sprang up between them. They were much in each other's
society, and often indulged themselves in long rides on the
prairies ; notwithstanding all this, with so much secrecy
were their affairs managed, that none knew whether there
was anything more serious in the future, or not. With Miss .
Downing and Mr. Shepherd, it was different ; all was open
and frank ; there was no difficulty in understanding their

76 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
intentions, and in three weeks it was announced, that they
would, on the following Sabbath, be united in the grove,
and the neighbors invited to witness the nuptials. The day
was fine, and as this was the first marriage of the kind that
had taken place in the country, a large concourse, for the
number of inhabitants, was assembled. After a hymn and
prayer, Mr. Lee arose and delivered a very pathetic dis
course, after which he alluded to the approaching ceremony,
and made a few remarks, much, in substance, as the follow
ing : " Friends and neighbors, you are aware that I have al
ways urged upon you the duty and propriety of lawful mar
riage. I have never been remiss in warning you against the
sinful practices so prevalent in this country. They are
wrong in the eyes of all the civilized world, and what is infi
nitely worse, in the sight of heaven. What I urge upon you
by precept, I am dertermined this day to enforce by exam
ple;" and to the astonishment of the assembly he strode
forward in a somewhat hurried and confused manner to the
place where Miss Pitman sat, extending his long arm, which
motion she seemed perfectly to understand, for she as quickly
seized the trembling digits at its extremity, and in military
parlance, marched back in double quick time, and wheeling
to the right, presented a bold front to the wondering, half
amused spectators. Mr. Daniel Lee slowly arose, and open
ing the discipline with the gravity of a bishop, with would-
be solemnity, which added new impulse to the half-stifled
mirth of the lookers on, repeated the marriage rite, and the
twain were made one. After this singular scene, Mr. Shep
herd and Miss Downing took their stand. Mr. Lee occupied
the place of his nephew, and after the second ceremony, the
congregation dispersed, and the friends of the wedded re
turned to a dinner prepared by the other ladies of the mission.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 77

CHAPTER IX.
Occupations— Harvesting — Mr. Lee's expertness— Temperance meet
ings— Ewing Young and his distillery— CustomB of the Hudson's
Bay Company — Action of Gov. McLaughlin.
After the above marriages, the wedded pairs started for
the coast, where they remained a short time, sea bathing
being necessary for Mr. Shepherd, as he had been, for some
time, in delicate health ; and the others went about their
occupations for the warm season. Some of the men com
menced erecting houses for the families of Dr. White and
Mr. Beers, others a blacksmith shop, and fitting up a com
modious log school-room, which was likewise used for a
place of worship. Messrs. Beers and Wilson had taken upon
them to transport the goods from Fort Vancouver, which
was a tedious business, as the river was rapid, and difficult
of navigation, especially above the falls. Mr. Daniel Lee,
with his troop of boys, took charge of the farming and gar
dening operations till harvest time, when all entered the
field ; even Mr. Jason Lee, when he returned, wielded the
cradle, and the doctor raking and binding after him ; and
here all found him, as on the river, more than their equal.
Harvest being ended, it was decided to hold a temperance
meeting, on which occasion all the American residents, as well
as the Canadian French and their families, were assembled en
masse. There were several siprited addresses, and it was
converted into a kind of sociable gathering, and was alto
gether an entertaining affair. This was not the first temper
ance meeting that had been held in the country ; for two years

78 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
previous Mr. Lee had convened meetings, and made consid
erable progression in the cause. One incident of his exer
tions is well worthy of recording. A gentleman named Ew-
iug Young had erected a building in which he proposed car
rying on distilling. Mr. Lee called on and remonstrated
with him, but in vain, he refused to relinquish a project so
nearly affecting his interest. Mr. Lee stated the case to his
friends, and represented to them the vast amount of evil
promising to accrue from the establishment. He enlisted
their feelings, and, although so little able to do so, they
raised a considerable sum of money, and laid it before Mr.
Young for his acceptance, provided he relinquished the en
terprise. He was considerably affected by this expression,
and informed Mr. Lee that if such was the sense of the com
munity on the subject, he would not so far trespass on it as
to persist in his design. He immediately did as he had
promised, notwithstanding he had completed the building,
raised the arch and set the boiler, soon afterward embarked
with about twenty of his neighbors in an expedition to Cal
ifornia for cattle, as, with the exception of those brought in
by the Hudson's Bay Company, the country was quite desti
tute. This was really a virtuous triumph, creditable to both
parties. Mr. Lee's reasons for his course, at so early a pe
riod, were that it was the custom of the Hudson's Bay Com
pany to present a few gallons of liquor to the head of each
family every holiday, especially Christmas and New Years.
This had been attended with pernicious effects, ruinous to
the health and peace of the inhabitants. In some instances,
the brawls so produced, almost resulted in murder ; at one
time a woman lay insensible thirty days, brought to the point
of death by the hand of her drunken husband. Mr. Lee
was desirous of discountenancing this practice, as far as pos-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 79
sible, and often conversed with Gov. McLaughlin to this
effect. As might be expected from a man of his decision
of character and philanthropic disposition, the governor
readily and cheerfully concurred with him, and even went
so far as to decide that no grains should be ground in the
mills of the company for distilling of liquors, and gave such
intimation to Mr. Young.

80 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

CHAPTER X.
Endeavors to reach home fiom Fort Vancouver by a new route — Be
wilderment in the woods — Fears — Unsatisfactory interview — Hun
ger and weariness of the pony — Despondency — Hunger and fatigue
— Hallooing for succor — Seeking a place to rest — Ascent into a tree
— Passing several hours in the saddle — Bed on the ground — Fears
of wild animals — Wolf story — Morning — Departure — Steep hill —
Suspicions — Sudden resolution — Reach the Willamette — Despond
ency — Paddles — Mrs. Bilake — Hunger and disappointment — Duck —
Odd reply — " A watched pot never boils" — Arrival at Mrs. B's resi
dence — Home.
The first autumn of his residence at the mission, the doc
tor, having a patient afflicted with a threatening tumor, it
became necessary that he should consult with his fellow
physician, Dr. Talmie, and for that purpose visited Fort
Vancouver. Five days after, the man being pronounced out
of danger, Dr. White started on his return.
Passing the portage at the falls with little difficulty, with
the assistance of the natives, he hastened on, exceedingly
anxious to reach home, as his absence had already been of
greater length than he had anticipated, and little Silas was
in delicate health. As they passed rapidly forward, the
crew in fine spirits, their attention was attracted by a couple
of Indians on horseback, issuing from the woods on the
right. The curly -headed negro pilot gave them a hearty
salute, and on enquiry, the doctor learned that they were
immediately from the mission, and that by land the distance

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 81
was not as great as by the river, and might be made in half
the time. The route was represented as plain and safe, and
it required but little more information to induce the doc
tor to endeavor to find his way home on horseback, and
therefore accomplishing, with his tawny friends, the loan of
a horse, and bidding his company adieu, he sat off filled with
high hopes of reaching home and family that evening. The1
direction lay south-westerly, over a long range of high hills,
in a tortuous, ancient Indian path, and he had not pro
ceeded far, when he found now and then another shooting
off in nearly the same course. This was unexpected and
seriously harrassing, and a little farther on this embarrass
ment was increased by the dry, fallen leaves obscuring the
trail, till, at length, the traveller became totally uncertain
whether or not he was in a trail ; and if so, whether it was
the right one.
In complete bewilderment, he stopped and gazed almost
hopelessly around, when, to his joy, he saw an Indian mat
ron, perhaps sixty years of age, advancing towards him.
He accosted her, and enquired the way to Champoeg, the
nearest point to the mission. She shook her head, not com
prehending his meaning, and articulated a few words, by
which her questioner was as much puzzled as she had been
at his. He essayed a reply, but it was useless, as she could
no more understand his Greek than he her Hebrew. After
several fruitless attempts at conversation, met by her with
suspicious shyness, they separated, the doctor regretting,
and half vexed, that the interview should have proved so
unsatisfactory. The shadows of night began to gather, and
troubled thoughts to crowd before his mind. He went on,
or rather groped his way along, till he emerged into a prai
rie, when the poor, jaded pony was so much exhausted that

82 TEN YEARS tN OREGON.
his rider concluded to walk, which he did for several miles,
when weak with hunger as well as fatigue, he mounted-
On again entering the woods, he once more dismounted, and
led the horse, which much impeded his progress ; the tired
creature was tormented by hunger, and stumbled along from
side to side, snatching now and then a nibble from the thick
undergrowth. Intending to reach home that night, he had
freed himself from all encumbrance, and was therefore un
provided with blanket, gun, flint or food, and clothed in a
light summer suit, unfitted to protect him from the penetra
ting night damps. He pushed on till dense darkness closed
around him, and he was no longer able to trace a path, and
now became seriously alarmed, fearing that he was irretriev
ably lost in that vast wilderness, and if so, in what a miser
able condition — no food and no means for procuring it.
Putting aside the thought as quickly as possible, he pressed
manfully forward, till from weariness, darkness and gnawing
hunger — having eaten nothing but a few dried berries, which
he found still clinging to the bushes, since morning — it was
impossible to go farther. Then he hallooed with all his
strength, and listened with straining ears for an answer,
which he hoped might reach him from the settlement. The
old forest reverberated, and the echoes went and returned,
till he almost fancied he heard another voice. He repeated
the cry, this time pitching his voice on a higher key, till it
sounded most unearthly. This produced no different effect,
save the hoarse croak of a solitary bird in the mountain. He
listened long and intently, but the low sough of the wind in
the tall trees alone rewarded him, and he determined, find
ing such efforts useless, to establish himself for the night.
An old hollow tree would have been a welcome retreat, to
protect him from the cold ; but such a shelter he dare not

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 83
seek, lest a stronger than he should before morning require
it at his hand. So he fastened the pony to the foot of a
large tree and left it to its fate, and being a good climber,
mounted into the branches, drew the saddle after him, and
placed it across one of the boughs, where he placed himself
upon it, lashed his body as securely as possible to the limbs
and trunk, and sat there as formally as though upon the
back of his Bucephelas. He then crossed his arms upon a
branch, pillowed his wearied head upon them, and half-
starved as he was, and in such a precarious situation, almost
immediately dropped asleep. His dreams he did not remem
ber, and on waking, and judging from the time of day dawn
he must have remained there about three hours, and from
having so long sat in the same position, exposed to the cold,
he was thoroughly chilled and benumbed. He descended
with great difficulty, and when attempting by friction to re
store circulation to his arms, he found them more than the
rest of his frame void of sensation. Fear of wild animals
for some time deterred him from leaving the tree ; but he
was convinced that if he remamed in his present lodging, he
must surely be chilled to death before morning,jtnxL chose
rather to secure even a doubtful chance of safety. He could
not kindle a fire, but some means must be resorted to to se
cure himself from danger from beasts ; and he therefore
groped about the ground, collecting brush and fern. He
then threw himself down on the roots of a tree, and cov
ering his form with these materials, as with a blanket, with
the useful saddle for a pillow, once more composed himself
to rest.
In a little while the sleeper was startled by the cry of
some wild animal, probably of the wild-cat species, which
continued to echo round him in all directions, and a certain

84 rarar years is Oregon,
reflection connected with this did not tend to soothe h»
fears. He knew he must be some where in the vicinity of a
spot, the scene of an anecdote he had often heard related by
9>ne of his nearest neighbors.
This man stated that he had been attacked, in open day,
by a dozen large wolves, and only escaped by clambering,
intp the roots of a tree which Providence seemed to have
thrown in his way, and with the contents of his gun, killing
five of them. This was as credible as one half the hunter
Stories, told to wonder-seeking " verdant ones ;" and one
thing is certain, that he then believed it quite as much
as he did the next n^rning, with the light of the sun around
him, and when morning come, which was Sabbath, probably
entertained fewer scruples than ever before, with regard to
Sunday travellings — this one in particular — and in due time
placing the saddle upon his horse, which had remained un
harmed, again mounted.
The trail, as on the night previous, was very obscure, be
ing much obstructed by fallen timber, and Ids progress was
slow. Between nine and ten o'clock he began to ascend a
high hill, or rather mountain, and after an hour's struggling
and panting ^p the difficult steep, h® began, from the at
mosphere, to suspect V was nearing the Pacific Ocean in
stead of the settlement. This was not a pleasant reflection,
as the Indians upon that part of the coast were particularly
hostile, and treacherous. For some time the bewildered man
toijed on, seeing no end to difficulties, till by the appearance
of the sun in tb,e heavens he was convinced that he was go
ing in decidedly the wrong direction, and determined taking
the orb for his guide to wheel about and retrace his steps if
possible, and doing so, strange as it may seem, six hours
l^ter found him upon the banks of the Willamette, a short

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. gg
distance from the spot whence he sat out on his ill-starred
journey. Here he stood after twenty-four hours, wandering
in truly wo-begone plight, uncertain what course to pursue,
as he might remain there for weeks and not a canoe pass, or
meeting with any opportunity to reach home. The pony
was completely fatigued, utterly unable to tear him farther,
and himself in little better condition, even had he known
what direction to take. His cogitations were most painful,
but he had indulged them but a brief space when far down
the river he heard the faint stroke of a paddle. It was re
peated, and now the only anxiety was whether it was going
from or coming towards him. A few moments, and a canoe
rounded a point, and came directly towards him, and to his
joy, he discovered its occupant to be one of his neighbors.
Mrs. Bilake, a youth named Lucia, and an Indian crew. As
they approached to within a very short distance, Mrs. B.
till then scarcely recognizing the stranger, elevated both
hands, and in broken English — for she was a half-breed —
exclaimed " Cah masica chareo." " Is it you, my friend ?-
where did you come from ?-is it you, toctor ?" He replied
to the good woman that if she would but give him a bite
of something to eat she should know the whole. She raised
both hands as before, and with a look of consternation, in
formed him that they had been absent from home a week,
and expecting to reach home that evening, had eaten then-
last remnant of food about half a mile below. Observing
the petitioner's look of blank disappointment, which was
very pitiable, she remarked that her nephew had shot a
duck just before, and enquired if he eould eat it without any
kind of seasoning. The doetor was a little surprised, not
to say chagrined, at such a question at a moment that he
could eagerly devour any thing that was eatable, and re-

86 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
plied instanter, without considering the sex of his listener,
" Why, yes, feathers and all !" She laughed merrily at the
oddity of the expression, and said in her own language, " O
that is too bad, but I guess we can fix you something."
Accordingly, the fowl was stripped, quartered, and prepa
red for the kettle ; and although the fire burned briskly, it
was then, if ever, that the hungry man realised the truth of
the trite saying, " A watched pot never boils." When it
was done, he seized upon it, and never was duck despatched
in less time by .one person ; and it was a most delicious mor
sel, for it seemed but a morsel. While thus engaged, his
kind friend prepared for him a bed in the canoe, and she af
terwards used to laugh as she told that his head had hardly
touched the blanket pillow, ere he was snoring lustily.
They arrived at her residence about midnight, and had hardly
stepped inside the door, when she called a slave boy, and
commanded him to catch up the race-horse immediately.
Meanwhile she set before her visitor, milk, pork, potatoes
and bread, and he had just finished a hasty repast, when
the horse galloped into the yard. Mrs. Bilake then led him
to the door, and with a tearful eye, and quivering Up, said,
"Mrs. White is not far from frightened to death about you.
I have ordered a good horse for you, do not spare him, re
turn to your family as fast as he can carry you." With a
grateful heart he mounted ; the gallant steed bounded off in
the calm light of a full moon ; and about three o'clock he
arrived at the mission, and enjoyed the happiness of embra
cing his family, who had become very much alarmed at his
prolonged absence.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 87

CHAPTER XI.
Ladies* employments— Hard Fare— Mr. Leslie's arrival, and also Mr.
Perkins's— Close quarters— New house— Hearth— Wolves— Doctor
White treed — Mrs. White's weapon — Cowardice of the animals—
The two species of wolves — Anecdotes — Antelope hunt or "cir
cling"— Swarming— Marriage of Miss Johnson and Mr. Perkins-
Winter rains — Missionary meeting — Political convention — Mr. Lee's
return to the United States — Reasons — Missionary efforts at the
Dalles — Revival at the mission — Startling report — Death of Mrs.
Lee and her babe — ©rowing of George — His former escape from
death on the Seneca Lake — Mrs. Whitman's little girl drowned —
Coincidence. During the summer the ladies divided their labors as
follows: Miss Johnson taught the school, Mrs. Shepherd
attended to the cutting, making, and repairing of the chil
dren's clothing. Mrs. White and Mrs. Lee were made over
seers of the cooking, and other domestic matters ; though
the cooking was not very laborious or extensive, as the fare
that season consisted of salt salmon, some pork, pea soup,
and once a week bread, and as often butter. On the tenth
of September, Mr. Leslie arrived at the mission with his
wife and three interesting little daughters. He was accom
panied by Mr. Perkins, to whom Miss Johnson was be
trothed. There was some difficulty in accommodating the
new comers, but they were obliged to enter the house with
the old inmates, already numerous. This enlarged the fam
ily to sixty members, and made Mrs. White anxious to re
move to their own house, which they did in a few days, al-.

88 TEN YEARS IN OBEG0N.
though it was not in a fit condition for inhabitants. There
was no chimney in it, and but roof enough to cover a bed ;
a few loose boards for a floor, and one side was entirely un
enclosed. As nearly all their cooking utensils were yet at
Fort Vancouver, they were obliged to boil the meat and
potatoes in a tin kettle, in the open air. However, the
chimney was soon built, and as there was no suitable stone
within several miles, the hearth was made of clay and ashes,
which, after drying, became measurably, though not per
fectly, hardened. But one of Mrs. White's greatest domes
tic privations was, that she could never wash her hearth, as
in this country ; for, even by sweeping, it would have to be
removed every two or three months. In a few days the
roof was completed, the house sided, and their dwelling
made very comfortable.
After this, their greatest annoyance was the howling of
wolves about the house during the nights. This seemed
particularly frightful, as they Were in rather a lonely situa
tion, being at a mile's distance from any habitation, and the
doctor was often absent. One night he left home to visit
Mr. Shepherd, who was ill, and some of the sick mission
children. At the time, Mrs. White was expecting his re
turn about seven o'clock, she suddenly heard a burst of pro
longed howls, in all their infernal variety, from the fine bark
of the young to the hoarse yell of the elder wolves. She
ran to the door and found that they came from the direction
in which she supposed her husband to be. In the most ab
solute terror, she besought the two hired men to fly to his
rescue. They laughed at her fears, and endeavored to rea
son her to composure. But the horrid din continued, and
fancying she also heard a faint cry, she was unable to re
strain her excited feelings, and snatching up a long pair of

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 89
cooper's compasses, she sallied Out into the prairie, accom
panied by the men, armed with rifles. They ran swiftly, and
in a few moments came near a large tree, around which were
congregated a number of the monsters, in full chorus. At
sight, the cowards retreated, and were soon beyond hearing,
seemingly conscious of the approach of one possessing more
lawful claim to their 'intended victim than themselves —
sneaking off, apparently ashamed and crest fallen. The
doctor descended from his retreat, as much panic, stricken .
as his rescuers. This he did not der^F. He informed them
that he had sat out from the mission determined to face
every danger, with the fortitude becoming a man. On first
starting, he picked up a large stick, and as he walked along,
Quixote-like, brandished it valiently, with thoughts that it
would be quite as well for the wolves to keep at respectful
distance, if they wished to preserve unbroken heads. But
when one of the dastards came within six feet of him, and
by its call gathered others to the pursuit, he dropped his
stick, and plied his heels with admirable dexterity, till the
tree offered its friendly shelter, when he hallooed for help
with all the force of his lungs. But in spite of his fears,
he could not help smiling, when, on descending from the
branches, he met Mrs. White, bearing the formidable wea
pon, with which she might have done such good service, if
the varmints had only been in less haste to be gone.
The wolves of Oregon are divided into two classes : The
prairie wolf is little larger than the common fox, somewhat
resembling it, and is inoffensive, except in the destruction of
poultry, pigs, and the young of herds. It is very common.
The others are three or four times larger than this, and ap
parently altogether a different species. They are exceed
ingly voracious, and when banded together, in the night sea-

90 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
son, fearfully formidable, often following herds of elk, wild
horses, and buffaloes, as dogs do sheep in this country, sel
dom desisting till they have destroyed great numbers. One
or two instances will serve to illustrate their indomitable per
severance :
One of these creatures pursued a noble stag, till overcome
by fright and fatigue, it sought refuge in the mission yard,
where the boys were milking. Another time, a party of
seventy men of the Hudson's Bay Company, were at ren
dezvous, when a larg£, beautiful deer fled into the camp,
chased by a wolf, and actually hid its head between the
knees of one of the men, as if trustingly imploring protec
tion. Its fear of the savage foe banishing its shyness of.
thehuman race.
After the new arrivals, the old hive, as the mission house
might be called, was too full for the convenience of its ten
ants, and sent forth several swarms in the course of a few
weeks. Mr. Beers occupied a new house; Mr. Leslie an
other ; leaving Mr. Whitcomb, and the families of Messrs.
Lee and Shepherd, in sole possession of the mansion.
Mr. Perkins and Miss Johnson were soon married. The
wedding took place at Mr. Leslie's, and was a very precise
and genteel affair. The new couple, took up their residence
with Mr. Leslie. Thus they were all finally settled snugly
in their new homes. The community was now quite large,
and its members would have derived much enjoyment from
each other's society, had not the falling of winter rains al
most entirely cut off neighborly intercourse. Although the
summers are so delightful and salubrious, the winters are
extremely irksome and disagreeable, not from the falling of
deep snow, as in this state, but the continuous, soaking
rains.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 91
There were some circumstances, however, which served to
make the time pass less tediously ; one" of which was a mis
sionary meetmg on Christmas, the first of the kmd convened
in the country. Although it was a wet day, and there was
considerable of a freshet, there were many assembled, and
two hundred and forty -three dollars subscribed for the cause.
This may seem singular, as there were so few inhabitants ;
but their hearts were in it, and though enjoying little, save
what was necessary for their comfort, each freely gave their
'mite ; some who used dried deer skins for window fights in
stead of glass, coming forward and contributing from five
to twenty dollars. However, do not let it be supposed, that
these persons were really poverty stricken ; for you must
remember, that they were far beyond the Rocky Mountains,
where many of the conveniences, indeed, nearly all, could
not be conveyed. They were not unable to purchase them,
for many of them possessed herds and grains in considerable
abundance. During the winter, there was a convention for getting up
a petition to the United States Government to extend juris
diction over the colony. It is but just to say, that the re-
sidt of that movement, and all subsequent petitions, has
been, as was predicted by some on that day, to draw upon
Oregon hundreds of imigrants, many from the western fron
tier of the states, of a restless, aspiring disposition, save that,
in the spring of 1847, mails were for the first sent to that
country at Government expense.
It is to be regretted that goverment has never taken any
formal action to avail the colonists in the least, in their diffi
cult and dangerous position. Mr. Lynn's bill, proffering a
portion of land to each mail settler, has oscillated between
house and senate the last six years, keeping the settlers in

92 TEN YEARS IN OREGON,
suspense between hope and fear. But I am wandering, and
must return to the spring of 1838.
The rainy season closing, preparations were made for Mr.
Lee's return to the States, ostensibly for a reinforcement,
although such a recruit came in the year previous. But
there was territory enough to be occupied by four times the
number already there. However, there was another object
in view in sending him out. It was the unanimous opinion
that he had been long enough rusticated in the woods, and
that it would be advisable for him to return home, if but for
a short time, in the hope that conimihgling once more with
polished society, would result advantageously to himself
and the mission, of which he was superintendent.
A short time after his departure, Mr. Daniel Lee and Mr.
Perkins commenced missionary operations at the Dalles of
the Columbia, nearly a hundred miles from Fort Vancouver.
There the great reformation was effected, of which Mr. Per
kins gave such a glowing, melting description to the Amer
ican public. There was also a revival of religion at the mis
sion, which for a time produced a happy change among the
youth and American residents. Indeed, Mr. Lee's absence
was an eventful period, for it now happened that Mr. Thom
as J. Hubbard a second time started for California for herds,
with about twenty of the neighboring men, and in three
weeks the news returned by Mr. La Fromboy, of the Hud
son's Bay Company, that they had been attacked by the
Cheste Indians, and every one killed. The emotions of the
families of the party may be imagined, but not described.
An awful gloom spread over the colony. They hoped it
might be a false report, and waited long for a relief to their
anxiety, when one day they heard the firing of guns at sortie
distance from the mission, on the opposite side of the river.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 93
They hastened in the direction of the sound, and to then-
infinite joy found nearly all the party they had feared were
slain. They had been defeated by the savages, driven out
of their way, and wandered about in the mountains, some of
them suffering severely from their wounds.
Soon after this an event transpired more generally mourn
ed than any other during Mr. Lee's absence, and nearly
concerning him. It was Mrs. Lee's death, which occurred
after a short illness. Her young son died in two or three
days after, and they were buried together in the grove
where the mother was married scarce a year previous.
Neither were Dr. and Mrs. White without their personal
afflictions, for there they buried George, their adopted son,
who was drowned while attempting to cross the Willamette
river on horseback. The current was very rapid, and it was
supposed he became giddy, for he turned the horse's head
down stream, and, becoming entangled in the saddle, was
drowned and carried away, before his companion, an Indian,
could reach him. He narrowly escaped a similar fate Jhe
day they left Havana for New York, to start for Oregon.
He was rambling thoughtlessly about the boat, when he ac
cidentally fell overboard, and was recovered with some dif
ficulty. He was dear to them as an own child, and they
lamented their loss with heartfelt sorrow. By his side, also,
they laid their little Jason, an infant of eleven months,
which was likewise drowned, when Mrs. White so miracu
lously escaped with her own life, while on an excursion down
tb.e Columbia river.
It was the season that Dr. Whitman's little daughter was
drowned in the Wallawalla, a tributary of the Columbia ;
and what made it a more remarkable coincidence, was, that

94 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
these two children were the first bom son and daughter of
Oregon. It was truly a summer of singular events, — the
greatest revival, and the greatest number of deaths that
occurred during the same length of time of their stay in
Oregon.

*BN YEARS IN OREGON. 95

CHAPTER XII.
A call from the Dalles — Mrs. White, Mr. Leslie, and Dr. Bailey set out
for that station-Return to the Cascades—Salmon party— Visit among
the natives — The aged turned off to die — Portage — Visit to an Indi
an burial place — Dead houses — War club — Re-embark — Swift Cur-
rent-=-Conversation-— ^-Disaster — Struggles for breath — Mr. Leslie's
statement — Canoes^Conducted to the shore— The lifeless babe-
Arrival at the Fort— Reach the falls of the Willamette— Strangers—
Unhappy night — Reach home— Letters.
I believe that an account of Mrs. White's adventure on
the Columbia river has been published, but perhaps it may
now be interesting to some of my readers. When Mr. Per
kins went to the Dalles, his wife accompanied him ; and soon
after Dr. W. received from him a letter, stating that she was
dangerously ill, earnestly requesting himself and lady to
come to them immediately. This threw them into some con
sternation, as he was unavoidably detained at home, and it
was almost equally necessary that Mrs. W. should also re
main. There was a meeting of the members of the mission, and,
considering the peculiarly lonely situation of their friend,
among a strange people, with, as he supposed, a dying wife,
it was decided that Mrs. W. and Mr. Leslie should go, and
Dr. Bailey in the doctor's stead. This was the first time
that the doctor and Mrs. White had been separated for any
lengthy period, and as they said farewell, a sad presenti
ment of evil seemed burthening their hearts. However, the
voyagers reached their destination in safety, and remaining

96 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
till Mrs. P. was recovering, then sat out on their return, Dr
Bailey staying behind.
They reached the cascades without accident, and there en
camped. Here they found an extensive salmon ground, and
on the banks of the river were hundreds of the natives, dry
ing and pulverising the fish for winter use.
The next morning was rainy, and they were detained be
yond their usual hour for raising camp, and as Mrs. White
had nothing to amuse herself about, she visited among the
village, talked as well as she could with the women, and in
spected their labors.
Here she saw the only instance of deserting old people to
die, that she had ever witnessed, though she had often heard
of the practice among certain tribes. On a hill at some dis
tance from the village, she found several aged persons
stretched upon the ground ; and by one poor creature par
ticularly, Mr. Leslie and herself stood with painful emo
tions. She lay upon the brow of the hill, within a foot of
the verge, probably so placed that she might be out of the
path, where a slight motion would precipitate her over the
descent. A cold, drizzling rain descended upon her, and
her only covering was a single small skin.
A short distance from this place it was customary to make
a portage of about three miles ; and they began it about
eleven o'clock.
During the walk they, visited a very curious burial place.
This tribe disposed of their dead differently from any other
with which the visitors were acquainted, placing them in
houses from eight to twelve feet square. There were three
or four of these huts, and they saw through the aperatures
between the barks, the bodies rolled in mats, and swung one
above another.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 97
On the ground, near one of the houses, half buried in
leaves, Mrs. W. found a singular and beautifully carved war
club, which she intended carrying away ; but Mr. Leslie in
terfered, declaring it would be highly imprudent to do so ;
for, if any of the tribe discovered its absence, they would
certainly suspect and pursue them ; so she was obliged to
replace it, though with great reluctance.
After they had travelled about two miles of the portage,
they saw a couple of canoes launch into the river, and they
yielded to the entreaties of the crew, who disliked carrying
the baggage so far, confiding in then- knowledge of the
river, and re-embarked. They were glad to do so, for they
had traversed woods and rough surface, and with wet feet
and fatigue were very uncomfortable.
Mrs. White in a few moments observed that they had
gained the middle of the stream, and that the current was
very rapid, and said to Mr. Leslie, " in case we upset, what
shall we do ?" He replied cheerfully and promptly, " I can
soon tell what /would do. I would cling to the canoe."
"Well," said she, " how very helpless is a female with a
babe," and the words had scarce escaped her lips, when,
from a slight swing of the canoe, which was heavily laden,
and low in the water, possibly striking a rock, it filled and
instantly went down. When the water came up round them,
the child started convulsively in its mother's arms, and gave
a piercing shriek, and Mr. Leslie exclaimed, " Oh God, we're
lost !"
When the canoe rose it was free from its burthen, and
bottom upwards, and Mrs. White found herself directly be
neath it, painfully endeavoring to extricate herself, and en
during dreadful agony in her struggle for breath. Despair
ingly, she felt herself again sinking, and coming in contact
7

98 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
with the limbs of a person in the water, the reflection flitted
across her brain, " I have done with my labors for these
poor Indians. Well, all will be over in a moment, but how
will my poor mother feel, when she learns my awful fate?"
Mr. Leslie afterwards stated that he had no recollection
till he rose, and strove to keep above water ; but again sank,
utterly hopeless of succor. He rose again just as the canoe,
passing round a large rock, its prow was thrown within his
reach. He clutched it with eager joy, and supported him
self a moment, gasping for breath, when he suddenly
thought of his fellow passenger, and the exclamation ran
through his mind, " what will the doctor say ?" He in
stantly lowered himself in the water as far as possible, and
still clinging, with one hand groped about as well as he was
able, when, as providence would have it, he grasped her
dress, and succeeded in raising her to the surface. By this
time the Indians, expert swimmers, had reached the canoe ;
and with their assistance he supported his insensible burthen,
and placed her head upon the bottom, with her face just
out of the water. After a few moments she gasped feebly,
and opening her eyes, her first words were, " Oh, Mr. Les
lie, I've lost my child I" " Pray, do dismiss the thought,"
said he, " and let us try to save ourselves."
They were wafted a long way down the river, no prospect
offering for their relief. At length they espied, far ahead,
the two canoes which had entered the river before them, oc
cupied, as it proved, by an Indian chief and his attendants.
Mr. Leslie hallooed to them with all his remaining strength,
and they hastened towards them, first stopping to pick up
the trunks and a few other things, which had floated down
stream. When at last they reached the sufferers, finding them so

TEN YEARS IN OREGON, 99
much exhausted, the chief cautioned them to retain their
hold, without in the least changbg their position, while he
towed them gently and carefully to the shore. Here they
rested, draining the water from their clothes, and Mr. Leslte
from his bead and stomach, for he had swallowed a vast
quantity. In half an hour the Indians righted the. canoe,
which had been drawn on shore, and to their amazement,
and almost terror, they found beneath it the dead babe,
wrapped in its cloak, havbg been kept b its place by the
atmospheric pressure.
Mr, Leslie was now uneertab what course to pursue, and
asked his companion's advice. She told him she was desi
rous of proceeding immediately to Fort Vancouver, as they
had nothbg to eat, no fire, and, in short, had lost so many
of their effects, that they had nothing wherewith to make
themselves comfortable, if tfaey remabed there till even tiie
next day.
Their canoe was a large one, bebg about twenty feet in
length, and four b breadth, and was laden with a bed, bed
ding, mats, two large trunks of clothing, kettles and dishes,
and provisions to last the crew throughout the journey, and
also articles of traffic with the natives, and they lost all but
the trunks, the contents of which were now thoroughly
soaked. They seated themselves in the canoe, and the chief threw
his only blanket over Mrs. W's shoulders, both himself and
Mien exerting themselves to render their charges comfortable,
during the thirty-six miles they were obliged to travel before
reaching the fort, which was late b the evenbg.
They were met by Mr. Douglas, who was greatly shocked
at the narrative, and whose first words were, " my God,
what a miracle ! Why, it is only a short time since, in tbe

100 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
same place, we lost a canoe, with seven men, all good
swimmers." Governor McLaughlin had that year gone on a visit to
England, leaving Mr. Douglas chief factor. But here let
me say, that, we cannot speak too highly of this gentleman
and his lady, together with the other residents, for their
kbdness to their unfortunate friends. They prepared a cof
fin, and dressed the babe for bterment, and afforded them
every facility for reaching home, whither they were anxious
to hasten immediately.
The following mornbg the bereaved mother was quite
composed. They started at eight o'clock, and with the little
coffin at their feet, travelled rapidly all day, and camped at
night, just above the falls of the Willamette. They took
supper, the men pitched their borrowed tents, and after a
day of great fatigue, they lay quietly down to rest.
In a short time, however, they were disturbed by a loud
paddlbg, and voices ; and looking out, beheld about thirty
Indians, men, women and children, in canoes, who landed
and camped very near them. The arrival of the strangers
inspired Mrs. W. with fear ; more, however, lest she should
be robbed of her dead treasure, than for her own safety.
She could hear all the noises of the camp, talkbg of the
men, gossip of the women, and, more harrowing than all,
the prattle and crying of the children, which reminded her
of her own dear lost one ; and it was one of the nights of
the greatest suffering she ever experienced. It was one of
perfect restlessness ; for she sat silently, through the long,
weary hours, with bursting heart, watchbg the corpse
of her babe at the door of her tent. How truly solitary ;
far from mother, husband, home, and friends — surrounded
by a company of strange savages, weighed down with grief,

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 101
tearless from its very weight, not knowing what next would
befall her. Oh, such agony as she endured through that
night's dreary vigils ! She felt as though she had been
obliged to drain the cup of bitter sorrow to its dregs, with
out a chanGe to pray that it might pass from her.
They sat off as soon as it was light, that they might, if
possible, reach the mission before putrescency had discolored
the body of the infant. They arrived at McKoy's about one
o'clock, where, while they were dining, horses were prepa
red, and they went on without delay. It is impossible to
describe the emotions of the doctor, when he met them,
about twelve miles from the mission, as, exceptbg a floating
rumor among the natives, which he hardly credited, he had
had no intimation of the accident. The sad presentiment
was realized ! Death had entered their circle and robbed
them of their fair child ; and as he looked into the face of
his wife, he comprehended in part her suffering. Mrs.
White brought with her the following letter from Mr. Bea
ver, the chaplain at the fort, to her husband :
Fort Vancouver, 9 P. M., Thursday.
My Dear Dr. White :
" The Lord gave, and the Lord hath taken away" — yea,
and the Lord hath preserved — " blessed be the name of the
Lord." I am just come from seeing your dear wife ; bless
me ! in how very different a condition from that she was in
at our house, only one short week ago ! And yet, she is
wonderfully composed, under the circumstances of her and
your bereavement. I sincerely hope, that her health will not
suffer; but that we cannot tell, till the fever of agitation has
subsided. She insists on going up to-morrow, and perhaps
she is right ; you will mutually console each other. I can
not speak as a father, but I think if I had suffered a similar

102 THN TEARS IN ORTTGOTT.
loss, I should have been too grateful to Providence for one
of bis most miraculous interpositions, to' murmur one mo
ment at the dispensation, with which he thought proper to
afflict me. The Almighty has shown you how much more
severely he could have laid on his hand. And you have an
other left, and one — agab I speak not as a father — b whom
you both must feel more interest. And yet the " suckbg
child !" I know not what to say, or how to offer any con
solation, but that it is an angel in heaven. That thought
alone must prevent us from, sotrrowmg as those who have no
hope. My wife was with me, but we stayed only a few
mbutes, not being able to render any real service. We had
been waiting anxiously for Mr. Leslie, btendbg to accom
pany him to the Willamette, or to follow him b two or three
days. We shall not now do so, bnzt shall put off our b-
tended visit for a week or two ; not that we have any disb-
elination to be b the house of mournbg, but because, just
at first, we might be b the way there. Pray send us a line
by the first opportunity, to let us know how Mrs. White is,
and^believe me, my dear Dr. White,
Yours, very faithfully,
HEBERT BEAVER.
Friday morning.
P. S. We rejoice to learn that Mrs. White has passed a
g*ood night, and that her bodily health does not appear to
be materially affected. For the mbd there is " Balm b
Gilead," Her's will be much tranquillzed before you meet.
That meetmg will be over before you read this. Acquit
yourself like a man for her sake, and God be with you, and
make the light of his countenance to shine upon you. So
pray your friends,
H. & JANE BEAVER.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 103
They received many letters of condolence from their friends,
among which was the followbg, brought to them by Mr.
Hall, who was travellbg with his invalid wife :
Honolulu, Sandwich Islands, Feb. 22, 1838.
My Dear Sister:
I cannot allow the present opportunity to pass, without
writing you a few fines at least. When you left us for your
field of labor, I thought it more than probable, that I should
see you b your wild home ere this. But you will be glad
that the causes which seemed to render such a circumstance
possible, are, for the present, at least, removed. I now rank
among the well ones of our mission, through the blessbg of
our gracious and merciful Father b Heaven. When our
last general letter was forwarded to our patrons, my name
was erased from the list of bvalids, where it had stood for
more than four years. Bless the Lord, oh, my soul, and
forget not all his benefits. I feel happy b commending to
your kbdness and sisterly attention, our dear, delicate sister
Hall. I rejoice, that they are gobg on her account, and
earnestly hope that it will result b permanent benefit to her
health. She has had a severe trial b leavbg her little girl
behbd, and it will need, on this account, a larger share of
your sympathy and kbd attentions. But I need not enlarge
on this pobt ; you have not forgotten the heart of a stran
ger. You have been afflicted b your family, and b your
mission. Oh, how your maternal bosom must have been
rent with anguish b losing your little babe, under such affect-
bg circumstances. And yet your husband will feel, that
his loss is small, compared with that of Mr. Lee. We were
much shocked at the account of her death. She seemed to
me capable of enduring hardship as a good soldier ; such
appeared to be the strength of her constitution. And yet

104 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
she has been the first of your number to fall. The Lord
does all things well. This is our consolation, even when he
''moves in a mysterious way his wonders to perform."
There has not been a death in our great mission for more
than two years. But there are the more to go. I feel an
inexpressible solemnity in looking forward to our next an
nual meeting. It seems so possible that our ranks may be
invaded by the grim messenger. May we all have our lamps
trimmed and burning. What a privilege to be permitted to
labor in the vineyard of the Lord. Let us be diligent and
keep our eyes bent upward, and not become ensnared with
the temptations of the world. The Lord guide and bless
you with his continued favor.
Your affectionate sister,
ABBA W. SMITH.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 105

CHAPTER XIII.
Illness of Mr. Shepherd — Surgical operation — Singular impressions of
Mrs. White-^His death — Benevolent society — Visit to XavierNs —
A Mother's anguish — Burying alive — The drowned boy — Outline of
Dr. Bailey's history — John Turner — A hermitage — Turner's bra
very — His seclusion.
Soon after this unhappy disaster, occurred the death of Mr.
Shepherd, who has before been mentioned, as one of the most
useful and devoted members of the mission. He went to
Oregon, from Lynn, Massachusetts, in delicate health, bebg
predisposed to the scrofula, having previously lost a sister
by the complabt. This, after two years' severe exposure b
that new country, exhibited itself b a scrofulous knee jobt.
After a protracted and' painful illness, endured with unpar-
alelled patience, from the acuteness of his suffering, caused
by the high state of bflammation in the affected jobt, he
besought Dr. White to remove the limb." This was done
with all possible despatch, and notwithstanding it was " hope
against hope," most of his friends looked forward to his re
covery. For fifteen or sixteen days, the operation afforded
the anticipated relief, and all watched the symptoms b the
beloved patient with a solicitude only second to that with
which he had watched over the interests of the mission.
But, alas ! it was in vab ; for although he was better b
many respects, it was discovered that a large abscess was
formbo-, the discharge of which convbced them that he
cotdd not long survive. In a week from that time he expi-

108 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
red, and his was a glorious death. "It seemed," as one
said who was present, " as though the house was full of
waiting angels, and that an almost perceptible halo was shed
around the death-bed. He continually exhorted the bystan
ders to patience and perseverance, and desired them not to
forget to publish in the United States what delight he felt
b this hour ; that he had embarked in the cause of Christ
and missions. Some of the time it was supposed he was
wandering ; for he was talkbg continually as though in the
presence of the Almighty, conversbg familiarly as with an
old friend. Once, while watching with him, he desired Mrs.
White to get pen and paper, and write, while he dictated a
letter to God. She did so, and wrote from his lips a long
piece of very chaste and beautiful poetry, as though ema
nating from a soul filled with the most pure imagbings, and
overflowmg with love and reverence for a holy bebg.
When she had finished; " now," said he, " fold and send it
up." The scene origbated in her mind very singular emo
tions ; she felt almost impressed, that by the departing spirit
she might send to heaven some message to her seraph babe
and dear Mrs. Lee, and even several times found herself on
the pobt of dobg so, and obliged to exercise some restraints
to avoid it. When the moment of dissolution approached,
the dybg man extended both his emaciated hands, exclaim -
bg — " All, all is peace ! peace ! Oh, what glory ! glory !
glory! We have victory through the lamb!" A person
entering the room remarked, " why, surely, he is dying !"
" Yes," said he, " I am dybg, but dybg to live agab ! I
shall soon be over Jordan !" And so Cyrus Shepherd died,
universally lamented in Oregon, though his friends were
conscbus he had entered into a " glorious rest."
Allow me here to btroduce an extract from the mos4

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 107
truthful work of Messrs. Lee <fc Frost, detailing an account
of this estimable man's sickness and death :
But the time has come when we must part with a beloved
brother and distinguished fellow-laborer, Mr. Cyrus Shep
herd. He had " fought the good fight, finished his course,
kept the faith." Sbce his first engagement in the mission,
he had employed himself b labors beyond his strength, and
that, too, under a load of bodily infirmities which knew no
permanent relief, but bcreased more and more till they ended
m death. Our brother loved society, but he was happier in
dobg good. In labors he was abundant, endeavoring to
do good in every way b his power to all around him,
whether whites or Indians. Often did he visit the Indian
lodge with food for the hungry and medicbe for the sick
For the children b the mission under his care he felt a deep
and abidbg bterest. To teach, to clothe, to feed, and to
save them, soul and body, was his utmost desire ; and this,
with the blessed hope of his own salvation, made him con
stantly "trample on pleasure and pain." By many of the
early bhabitants he will long be held b grateful remem
brance ; but those only who knew him from the first can
place a just estimate upon his character. His disease was
the scrofula, and in the spring of 1838 it attacked his knee.
By recourse to medical treatment, however, the danger was
averted, and for eighteen months some hopes were indulged
that he would recover. But on the commencement of the
raby season, b' the fall of 1839, the disease forced him to
take his bed, where, after suffering greatly for about twenty
days, it became necessary, as the only hope of savbg his
life, to resort to the painful process of amputation. This
was done December 11, by Dr. White, assisted by Dr. Bai
ley and Mr. Wilson. He endured all with remarkable pa-

108 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
tience and resignation. " Through all his suflerings," said
his sympathizing and excellent wife, in a letter of the 22d
of December, " I have not heard a murmur to escape his
lips ; but b his most trybg hours, he could rejoice and
sbg praises to God." An opportunity to forward the let
ter of which this is an extract not occurring till the 27th,
he wrote me a few lines in the margin, the last his hand ever
penned, which breathe the same spirit with that quoted
above. Including all at the Dalls station, he says, Decem
ber 27th : "Dear brethren and sisters — Feeling a desire to
say a few words to you this morning, Susan has kbdly un
sealed her letter to favor my purpose. I am very feeble b
body, and obliged to lie on my back from mornbg till night ;
excepting of late I have been permitted to turn on my side,
or to lie raised on my bed for a short season, to relieve the
pab caused by lybg b one position so long. But the doe-
tor seems to think that even this, on the whole, is injurious,
and discourages it. I have lain from midnight till ten
o'clock, A. M., in the same position, and bear it very well.
Dr. White has been very attentive bdeed b my sickness,
and has done all fully to satisfaction. All the brethren and
sisters seem to take delight in exertbg themselves to mani
fest their sympathy and kindness in every manner possible.
I think no person under heaven ever was more kbdly and
faithfully attended than I have been during my sickness.
Expressions of deep sympathy are pourbg in from every
quarter. French, English, Americans, nor must I exclude
the poor Indians, have given unequivocal expressions of
theb sympathising love. I cannot say I thbk I shall get
up from this bed whereon I am laid. God has dealt with
me b a manner which it is impossible to describe to you.
Such support, such removal of every care, the mind con-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 109
stantly far from every anxious thought, I could never
have conceived to be possible. Under the most excru
ciating pain, when at every breath it seemed impossible
to refrab from screeching as loud as my breath would bear,
these cries were mbgled with shouts of praise ! I would
say to you, such has been the abundance of peace given, that
not a rising of impatience or fretfulness, or a murmur or a
complaint, has ever been felt by me during my sickness.
Farewell ! The God of peace, grace, and consolation be
with you continually." Signed, " A part of Cyrus." The
stump of the amputated limb healed gradually, and strong
hopes were entertabed that he would recover ; but they
proved delusive, for an abscess formed in his hip wbch baf
fled medicine, and so rapidly wasted the powers of fife, that
on the ushering in of the new year, 1840, his happy spirit,
" disburthened of its load," mounted upward to the abode
of bliss.
But among the many mournful scenes, the missionaries
had seasons of rest, and even pleasbg amusements. Among
others, it was proposed to organize a society for clothing the
Indian women. Accordingly, the ladies met, and with char
acteristic generosity, subscribed to the amount of fifty dol
lars, which was expended at Fort Vancouver for baize and
other articles for winter apparel. A request was circulated
for the needy females to assemble at the house of Mr. Beers.
There were many present, and seated on their mats on the
floor, "plied their needles under the direction of their bstruc-
tresses. In this way they were employed for about the
same number of hours that are similar societies in this coun
try. At supper time, the ladies partook of a meal prepared
accordbg to rule : that is, one kbd of cake, bread, butter,
and tea. A fire was kbdled, and a quantity of potatoes

110 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
roasted, of which the natives ate with much zest, for a
greater treat could not have feeen offered them. After a
number of pleasant meetbgs, during winch the progression
of the women b needle work was very gratifybg to their
benefactresses, a sufficient compliment of garments was com
pleted and distributed to make the wearers comfortable
through the wbter. One day the doctor and his family
were visiting at Xavier's, a neighbor at some distance from
the mission, and the conversation turned upon the custom of
burying alive ; and their host related the followbg circum
stance :
One day himself and family were disturbed while at din
ner by a tramplbg and loud wail, and on gobg to the door,
saw borne by the corpse of a young woman, followed by a
small group surroundbg a mother weeping and mourning b
great grief. They passed on, but in a short time a young
man rushed into the house, beggbg Xavier to go with him,
saying, that they were burying a woman alive. He instantly
hastened to the spot, but a short distance, and found the
deed actually done. The explanation given him was, that
on arriving at the grave, and depositing the body, the mother
threw herself upon it, clasping her arms about the neck, and
resolutely expressed her determination to be buried with it.
They refused to obey her wish, and represented to her how
the missionaries would view the act. " Oh, bury me,17 said
she, " bury me! Why should I live? Is not my husband
dead? Are not my children all gone ? It is not well, let
me die ! Why should I five to be a slave to my kbdred ?
Let me die, let me go with my daughter to the spirit land
of our fathers !" They endeavored to force her from the
grave, but she clung to her dead child, and they at last
yielded to her will, and when Xavier reached the spot it

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. Ill
was too late to restore the mother too life, the vital spark
had fled. He had scarcely concluded the relation when an
Indian hunter came to the house, and informed the doctor
that half a mile below, he had found the body of a white
person among the driftwood, on the bank of the river. They
hastened to the shore, and found the corpse of George, who
I have before mentioned was drowned, though I believe I
did not add the fact, that his body was not found b twenty
days after. They had searched in vab for him, and now a
fresh tide of grief gushed over the hearts of the parents as
they saw before them the bloated, disfigured remabs of their
boy. A short time after this, took place the marriage of Miss
Smith and Dr. Bailey. The career of this gentleman had
been rather bterestbg. He was a native of England, of
respectable parentage, and bred to the medical profession.
He was acquainted with Sir Astley Cooper and Abernathy,
and had witnessed some of their most interesting surgical
operations. His associations had been among the bloods of London,
and to this may be attributed the fact of his contractbg an
bsatiable thirst for spirituous liquors. Probably to break
off these influences was the objeet of his mother and three
sisters in removing to America. He accompanied them, but
apparently to no good results, for his course was as unbter-
ruptedly dissipated as before. They remonstrated with him
most feelbgly, and solemnly reproved, without effect, till one
morning, after an unusually severe rebuke from his mother,
without her knowledge repaired to a ship and engaged on
board as a common hand. A voyage round Cape Horn and
into the Pacific, as far as California, was quite sufficient of
sailor's duty for one so gently reared as he had been. Ac-

112 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
cordbgly, the first opportunity, as he expressed it, he took
French leave, and for years wandered about in California,
among a people of loose, dissolute habits, and, judging from
hbts given by himself, made slow progress in the work of
reform. A way opening, he, with several others, started for the
Columbia river on a trappbg excursion. Having selected no
leader, and all aspiring to that honorable office, their journey
was a contbual scene of bickering and contention. At the
first pobt of danger, when attacked by the Cheste Indians,
they experienced all the evil effects arising from such an in
iquitous course, proving the truth of the saying, " a house
divided against itself cannot stand," for in the contest most
of the number were killed, four hundred miles from their
destbation. Baily himself was badly wounded. The sur
vivors having been robbed of every thing, wandered in the
wilderness, suffering much from want of food, till at last they
were obliged to slay their only remaining horse. After de
vouring the emaciated carcass, for many days they subsisted
on snails and insects, just enough to sustain life.
When Baily arrived at the bank of the river opposite the
mission, he was so weak and debilitated that he was unable
to call for assistance ; but knowing that unless he reached
the settlement he must perish, he attempted to swim the
rapid current. He succeeded for a few rods, when he was
obliged to return, and with great difficulty crawled upon the
shore, with scarce breath or consciousness in his wasted
body. Fortunately, he was discovered and carried to the
mission, where his reception and treatment were such as
perhaps I had better leave him to record when he writes his
own biography. From thence he went to Fort Vancouver,
where, bebg under the surgeon's care, he recovered b a

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 113
few weeks. From this time he wandered about with no
employment save such as cutting and sphtting rails, for two
shillbgs per hundred, of which, as he had little strength,
and less bclbation for such pursuits, he soon wearied.
At length he visited California a second time, b company
with Mr. Young and his party, who went thither for cattle ;
and it was after his return that Dr. White first saw him.
His curiosity was roused by receiving from him a recipe,
very neatly written, employing medical terms for the articles
he wished to obtain ; and, in conversation with a gentleman
he learned some of his history, and thought that, with pro
per encouragement, he might be induced to reform. He
sent him an invitation to call on him, but he declbed. He
afterwards had an interview with him, in which he enquired
what he purposed for the future. He replied very indef-
bitely, and the doctor proposed to him to enter his family
for six months, and partially review his studies, to prepare
himself agab for practice in his profession. He was amazed,
touched, and hardly knew how to answer, and left, promis
ing to see the doctor agab. In a few days he accepted the
proffer. He was an educated man, soured by adversity, and bi-
tingly sarcastic, and consequently was not a favorite among
the people ; bdeed, had very few friends. At the end of
six months, his modest, unassuming manners, and studious-
ness had elevated him b the public estimation, and he pos
sessed its entire confidence as a skillful physician, which he
proved himself to be.
For the first time b seven years, he now wrote his mo
ther, informbg her of his whereabouts, and promising to visit
her as soon as possible. Soon after he made proposals to
Miss Smith, and succeeded in obtabing her hand, and a
8

114 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
year subsequent made good his promise, and visited his mo
ther b the States, where they remained several months.
He was afterwards elected one of the three executives b the
government of the territory.
One of Bailey's companions in his last expedition to Cali
fornia, was John Turner, a man who had been engaged in
some of the rashest adventures encountered in the last
twenty years. He was a man of singular genius, and some
of his tales were very amusing.
One little bcident he sometimes related of his travels un
der a government officer, in the western wilds of what is now
the State of Missouri. Some sixty miles west of the near
est settlement, they came in sight of a log hut, having about
it an appearance differing from the common Indian cabins.
They entered it, and found there a man and woman, with
several children, who were as sly and suspicious as the wild
est savages b the country. They at length gamed their
confidence, and learned that twenty years before, the man
had become a fugitive from justice, and with his family fled
to this solitude, where, for the whole length of time they had
not seen a sbgle face of their own color. They had in their
possession garments which they had brought from the States,
but they were so patched that it was literally impossible to
distbguish their original color. They seemed happy, and
evbced not the slightest desire to mingle agab with their -
race, stating that from their long isolated residence, they
were bcapacitated for enjoying society.
Turner was with Bailey, and was the means of saving the
lives of the survivors of his party b then- encounter with the
Chestes. This young Hercules, like Samson of jawbone
memory, seized a large pine knot, and making such havoc
among the copper colors, that he at last succeeded in driv-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 115
ing them off. A few years previous, he was associated with
Captain Smith and a trappbg party of twenty, who were
attacked by a band of savages, and every man, excepting
himself and Smith, killed.
This old veteran afterwards turned hermit. Whether b
imitation of the one he saw in early life, I cannot say ; but
with an Indian wife lives as secluded as possible, at no small
remove from the settlement.

110 TEN YEARS IN OREGON-.

CHAPTER XIV.
Daniel Lee's adventure— Visit from Mr. and Mrs. Beaver— English
domestic— Visit from Dr. Whitman and Gov'nor and Mrs. McLaugh
lin—Mode of travelling— Mr. Hall and Lady— Party of the Hudson's
Bay Company— Intermarriage with the natives — Origin of the cus
tom — Extract from Astoria — Return of Mrs. Lee — News — Effect —
Oregon Institute — Agriculture — Mr. Lee's course on his first arrival
in the country— Results— Exploring tour to the Umpqua country-
Willamette Valley — Umpqua mountains — Difficult assent — A plan
tation — Polite reception — Return — Meeting with an Indian party-
Narrative of the Chief.
I had nearly forgotten to notice an adventure of Mr.
Daniel Lee's, similar to one related b a former chapter.
While he was at the Dalles, it became necessary for him to
return to head quarters for provisions. In endeavoring to
follow a trail, made a long time before by the Hudson's Bay
Company, which had not been travelled of late, and was
nearly obliterated, he strayed from it, and a journey which
should have been made in four days, now occupied fifteen.
This occasioned much anxiety and alarm, and a suitable
party had collected to explore the wilderness in search of
their lost friend, when he appeared among them, sufficiently
wasted and haggard to warrant them in believbg the tale
he told of having had to subsist on horse flesh.
About this time Dr. and Mrs. White received several visits
from their friends, and among the first was one from Mr.
and Mrs. Beaver. They came to Champoeg in canoes, and
from thence on horseback ; and as they rode up to the door,

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 117
Mrs. White could not help admiring Mr. B's beautiful horse,
and his handsome accoutrements.
Their attendants were English, and there were several
exhibitions during their stay. They had been b the house
but a short time, when Mrs. Beaver said to her hostess,
"now, Mrs. White, if you have occasion for the services of
another in your domestic matters, just call on John ; and if
he does not obey you immediately, hit him a knock, that 's the
way I do." This was in the servant's presence, and Mrs. W.
felt somewhat abashed, for he was a man of at least ninety
years of age, and of much more than common stature. But
she soon saw there was no cause for embarrassment, for,
seembgly, he did not notice his mistress's language, and she
could not avoid wonderbg how an American domestic would
have borne it. They were much pleased with every thbg
around them, especially the bdoor arrangements, as might
be bferred from the lady's exclamation on first enterbg the
house — " Why, Mrs. White," said she, " how nice this is ;
it looks as though a white woman's hands had been here.
This is the first White woman's house I have been b sbce
my arrival b this country." They were highly btellectual
people, and their stay was truly a "feast of reason and a
flow of soul."
After this, Dr. Marcus Whitman, of the Presbyterian
mission, at Waiilatpu, near Wallawalla, spent a few days with
them. During his visit, Mr. Leslie sent out invitations for a
little party, and the friends met together, and through the
evenbg were agreeably entertained by his account of the
affairs at his mission.
They also received a visit from Dr. McLaughlin and his
wife. The style in which they travelled was rather novel,
bringbg with them beds, bedding, tea, coffee, sugar, bread,

118 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
cakes, cheese ; and not even the wine was left behbd.
They were attended by a numerous suite, never forgetting
the cook. The doctor's urbanity of manners, intelligence,
and excellence of character, rendered his visits very agree
able. Mr. E. 0. Hall, and lady — who, it will be remembered,
were referred to in Mrs. Smith's letter — also arrived, bring
ing with them a small printing press, a present from the
Sandwich Islanders to the upper mission, and a man and
woman who were very pious, and cheerful b rendering any
service which they could do most usefully. Their principal
object b visitbg the Columbia river, was to seek the benefit
of Mrs. H's health, which was very delicate. She had not
for years been able to walk any distance. Mrs. White's im
pressions were very curious as she witnessed Mrs. Hall's
sbgular entry bto her house. Two Sandwich Islanders
entered the house without speakbg or knockbg, bearbg
the sick lady in a mat litter, and deposited their burthen
unceremoniously b the middle of the floor, from which she
arose as unconcerned as though stepping from the little car
riage b which the ladies of the islands are usually drawn by
a single attendant. After some weeks had expired, as Mrs.
Hall's health was much improved, and her husband had b-
structed the missionaries in the art of printing, they started
for home, their departure much regretted by their enter-
tabers. Perhaps my readers would be pleased to hear something
more particular of the parties sent out by the Hudson's Bay
Company, as they have so often been mentioned. One of
these parties passed through the settlement about the time
of Mr. Hall's visit, and the manner of their procedures will
illustrate the general custom. They start b the spring for

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 119
California, carrying- with them merchandise and English
goods, for barter with the natives, and return, laden with
furs, principally of the beaver and otter. This company,
just before entering the settlement, which was early in
the morning, stopped to remove from their persons stabs
and traces of travel, and dress themselves carefully in
their best attire. They then formed themselves in Indian
file, led by Mr. La Fromboy, the chief of the party. Next
him rode his wife, a native woman, astride — as is common
with the females — upon her pony, quite picturesquely clad.
She wore a man's hat, with long black feathers fastened b
front, and drooping behbd very gracefully. Her short dress
was of rich broadcloth, leggbs beautifully embroidered with
gay beads, and fringed with tby bells, whose delicate, mu
sical tinkling, could be heard at several hundred yards dis
tance. Next, the clerk and his wife, much b the same
manner ; and so on to the officers of less importance, and
the men ; and finally the boys, driving the pack horses, with
bales of furs, one hundred and eighty punds to each animal.
The trampling of the fast-walkbg horses, the silvery tinkling
of the small bells, rich, handsome dresses, and fine appear
ance of the riders, whose number amounted to sixty or sev
enty. The array was really patriarchal, and had quite an
imposing appearance.
It is customary for the members of the party to take unto
themselves Indian wives. It is their policy, considered by
them necessary to conciliate the goooV will of the tribes.
The officers set the example, and have ever encouraged the
men to follow it, each takbg to be his wife the daughter of
a chief, whose grade corresponded with his own. For in
stance, Governor McLaughlin, and Mr. James Douglas, hold
ing the highest offices b the company, selected the daugh-

120 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
ters of the first chiefs of the most important tribes in the
country. The gentlemen are at great pains to educate their wives
and children, and they often become refined, pleasing, and
engaging in their manners. The custom did not, however,
originate with the Hudson's Bay Company, for one of the
first accounts we have of a marriage of this kind, was that
of McDougal, of the Astor Company, with the daughter of
the one-eyed chief, Comcomly, " who held sway over the
fishbg tribe of the Chenooks, and had long supplied the
factory with smelts and sturgeons."
The following is a brief relation of the affair from Wash
ington Irving 's "Astoria:"
" Some accounts give rather a romantic origin to this
affair, tracing it to the stormy night when McDougal, in the
course of an exploring expedition, was driven by stress of
weather, to seek shelter in the royal abode of Comcomly.
Then and there he was first struck with the charms of this
piscatory princess, as she exerted herself to entertain her
father's guest. The "Journal of Astoria," however, which
was kept under his own eye, records this union as a high
state alliance, and a great stroke of policy. The factory had
to depend in a great measure on the Chenooks for provis
ions. They were at present friendly, but it was to be feared
they would prove otherwise, should they discover the weak
ness and exigencies of the post, and the intention of aban-
donbg the country. This alliance, therefore, would infalli
bly rivet Comcomly to the interests of the Astorians, and
with him the powerful tribe of the Chenooks. Be this as it
may, and it is hard to fathom the real policy of governors
and princes, McDougal despatched two of the clerks as em
bassadors extraordinary, to wait upon the one-eyed chieftab,

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 121
and make overtures for the hand of his daughter. The
Chenooks, though not a very refined nation, have notions
that would not disgrace the most refined sticklers for settle
ment and pb money. The suitor repairs not to the bower
of his mistress, but to her father's lodge, and throws down
a present at his feet. His wishes are then disclosed by some
discreet friend, employed by him for the purpose. If the
suitor and his present find favor b the eyes of the father,
he breaks the matter to his daughter, and bquires bto the
state of her inclinations. Should -her answer be favorable,
the suit is accepted, and the lover has to make further pres
ents to the father, of horses, canoes, and other valuables,
according to the beauty and merits of the bride ; lookbg
forward to a return b kbd whenever they shall go to house
keepbg. The shrewdness of Comcomly was never exerted
more adroitly than on this occasion. He was a great friend
of McDougal, and pleased at the idea of having so distin
guished a' son-in-law.; but so favorable an opportunity of
benefitting his own fortune was not likely to occur a second
time, and he determined to make the most of it. Accord
ingly, the negotiation was protracted with true diplomatic
skill. Conference after conference was held with the two ambas
sadors. Comcomly was extravagant b his terms ; rating the
charms of his daughter at the highest price, and* bdeed,
she is represented as having the flattest, most aristocratical
head b the tribe. At length the prelimbaries were all
happily adjusted. On the 20th of July, early in the after
noon, a squadron of canoes crossed from the village of the
Chenooks, bearbg the royal family of Comcomly, and all his
court. That worthy sachem landed b prbcely state, array
ed b a bright blue blanket, with an extra quantity of pabt

122 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
and feathers, attended by a tram of half -naked warriors and
nobles. A house was in waiting to receive the princess, who
was mounted behbd one of the clerks, and was thus con
veyed, coy but compliant, to the fortress. Here she was re
ceived with devout, though decent joy, by her expecting
bridegroom. Her bridal adornments it is true, at first
caused some little dismay, having painted and adorned her
self according to the Chenook toilet ; by dint however of co
pious ablutions, she was freed from all adventitious tint and
fragrance, and entered bto the nuptial state, the cleanest
princess that had ever been known of the somewhat unctu
ous tribe of Chenooks.
From that time forward, Comcomly was a daily visitor at
the fort, and was admitted into the most intimate councils of
his son-b-law. He took an interest in every thing that was
going forward, but was particularly frequent in his visits to
the blacksmith's shop, tasking the labors of the artificer b
iron for every kind of weapon and implement suited to the
savage state, bsomuch that the necessary business of the
factory was often postponed to attend to his requisitions.
Comcomly was very proud of his son-in-law, till McDougal
so traitorously gave to Black, an English commander, the
possession of the fort, after which event the old chief would
say but little about him, excepting that his daughter thought
she had married a great brave, but she was mistaken, for he
was nothing but a squaw."
Mr. Lee returned to the United States in the spring of
1840, after an absence of two years. A fine hospital had
just been completed, and every preparation made for the ac
commodation of the large, expected reinforcement. Al
though he was expected, he managed to come upon them by
surprise. As soon as he arrived at the mouth of the Co-

TEUT YEARS IN OREGON. 128
lumbia, early b June, he left the vessel, and with an Indian
express, travellbg in advance of every btelligence, reached
the house of Dr. White one morning at an early hour. He
remained with them but a few moments, and went on to the
mission, leaving behind a list of the party he had brought
with him. At the head they found the names of Mr. and
Mrs. Jason Lee, the first btimation they had had of his sec
ond marriage. It was so entirely unlooked for, that they
were as if thunder-struck; the news of Mrs. Lee's death
had been sent on to him, and they had often looked forward
with dread and sorrow to the time when he should return to
the home which the death of his beloved wife had left deso
late. But sympathy was needless, for to him her place was
already filled by another. Such was the grief, and attach
ment to their deceased sister, of the whole mission, that on
the first day of his arrival none had the heart to ask a single
question about his new wife, nor did he once refer to her.
The next day he invited Dr. White to accompany him to
Fort Vancouver to meet the reinforcement. In compliance
with the superintendent's request, they were all convened at
seven o'clock b the evenbg, when they received their ap-
pobtments, and listened to a few remarks from him, after
which the doctor addressed them, givbg an account of the
deaths, revivals, reformations, etc., at the Dalles and Willa
mette, all of which seemed much to interest them. In turn,
he was much pleased with the neat and respectable appear
ance of his auditors. Havbg been for three years so com
pletely isolated from the fashionable world, the new modes
and fashions which they brought with them struck him very
pleasantly, and he thought that so large a party, and of such
a cast, reflected honor on the American churches, and told
favorably for their sentiments on the subject of missions. It

124 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
seemed really like the arrival of the pilgrim fathers in New
England ; and it may be bquired, if their influence was any
thbg like what the fathers' would have been. The mission
bfluence, for a time, was deeply felt b the colony, and
through it was laid a broad basis for the promotion of civil
ization and literature. Churches and mills were erected,
herds introduced, farms enlarged, and the Oregon Institute
built. This building was a noble edifice, one hundred feet
by ninety-four, and contained four stories. It was estab
lished for the instruction of the children of the colony, who
came in numbers from all parts. The school was well taught
and conducted, and examinations and exhibitions were held
there which would perhaps have done honor to many of the
popular academies of this country. This was not the only
school in the colony, there were several others ; but this was
carried on on a more extensive plan, and was a valuable ac
quisition to the country.
But to return. There ware fifty-two members of the new
recruit, and the following is the disposition which was made
of them. Dr. Richmond and lady, without being gratified
with a sight of the old mission at the Willamette, were sent
off to Nesqually, a hundred miles north of the Columbia,
and Mr. Frost and lady to the mouth of the river. Dr. Bab-
cock and family, and Mr. Brewer, were despatched to the
assistance of Lee and Perkins, at the Dalles. The residue
were conveyed to the mission, to be afterwards distributed
as should be deemed advisable. The nearest Methodist station
to the old mission, in the upper country, was at the Dalles.
This was strictly an Indian mission, conducted on much the
same principle that were those of Dr. Whitman and his as
sociates. Here, as among them, a school for the natives was
established, Mr. Brewer also openbg farms for them as well

TEN YEARS IN1 OREGON. 125
as for the missionaries. This had also been done success
fully by the other denombation, resulting beneficially to the
natives, as will be seen hereafter. Too much can hardly be
said in praise of the Presbyterian missions, for their efforts
in behalf of the Indians, b which they were indefatigable.
Mr. Lee's object seemed principally to introduce a better
state of things among the white settlers, which, to a great
degree, succeeded. He had originally been sent out to labor
among the Flathead Indians, and passing through the coun
try, leaving them far to the right, went on to the Willamette,
intending to spend there a winter before proceeding to his
destination. He found the mild, equable climate, and soci
ety, though small, of whites, more congenial to his habits
than any thing he could expect in the section to which he
had been sent. Thbkbg that he discovered signs of the
colony becoming an extensive and valuable field of useful
ness, and that, for various reasons, the Flatheads had less
claim for missionary efforts than had been supposed, he de
termined to assume the responsibility and commence a mis
sion on the Willamette. He directed its principal energies
to bear for the promotion of the bterests of the white pop
ulation, the result of which have been seen b the erection
of mills, etc., and through this bfluence also a perfect form
of provisional government has been established and enforced
for years. My readers may have often heard of Mr. Hbes
and lady, who have of late returned from Oregon by way
of Chba, and who have written many bterestbg letters, es
pecially of the missions b the Celestial Empire. They were
with the last mentioned reinforcement, and assigned a station
at Umpqua, one hundred and forty miles south. The follow
ing August, Mr. Lee, Mr. Hbe, and Dr. White sat out on an
exploring tour, for a suitable spot for a station. They trav-

126 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
elled on horseback, with a single attendant, and two horses
laden with their blankets, provisions, etc. In two days they
reached the Upper end of the Willamette valley, the whole
of which they had never before travelled, and as all others
have been, were delighted with its lovely scenery, and gen
eral fertility of the soil. As no hunters had visited the val
ley for some time, they found fresh signs of the beaver, and
otter, numerous flocks of wild fowl, and herds of deer were
scampering, all hours of the day, over the beautiful plains.
They pushed on for the Umpqua fort, about sixty miles from
the coast. As they left the valley, the travelling for some
distance was very pleasant, the country bebg gently undu
lating ; but it became more and more hilly, with a greater
proportion of timber, until they arrived at the Umpqua
mountains. They saw many, what they considered, would
be very desirable locations for settlers, fine water privileges,
large plabs well grassed, and good, tillable soil. Near the
foot, and b the spurs of the mountabs, they saw the cedars,
of Lebanon, as they jocosely pronounced them, being the
largest they had seen or read of any where, except in Solo
mon's allusions. A faithful delineation of the size and beauty
of the tree might actually jeopardize the reputation of the
writer for truthfulness, and it would not therefore be advi
sable to attempt one.
They were appalled at the general features and rugged-
ness of the mountain they were to climb, and somewhat du
bious of their ability to conquer the ascent. But they
pressed on with the conviction that " faint heart never won,"
etc., might be applied to more than one kind of underta
king, and clambered perseveringly over fallen timber and
rugged steeps, hardly daring to look ahead, fearing to see
greater difficulties and entanglements. At length they came

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 127
to a narrow ledge, which they traversed with cautious steps,
and had passed the most dangerous part, when their guide
pointed out to them the place where a horse of the Hud
son's Bay Company had fallen some seventy feet and been
dashed to atoms. This somewhat hastened the pace of the
travellers. An hour more and they were at the top of the
mountab, when, to the amusement of his companions, Mr.
Hbes rose b his stirrups, and raising his hand, said, in a very
earnest manner, " my wife never climbs this mountab ;" and
she never did, for it was too difficult a task for a lady to en
counter. The descent was less arduous, and when they were about
half way down, from an open ground, they saw in the val
ley beneath a little plantation, with a picket enclosure, and
a neat dwelling and outhouses. They were astonished at find
ing sueh a gem b so isolated a spot, surrounded by the most
savage scenery of nature, and naught but Indian inhabitants a
hundred miles around. They found it tenanted by a French
man, stationed there by the Hudson's Bay Company, living
in comparative comfort, raising considerable corn and vege
tables. With true French suavity he welcomed his visitors
with great demonstrations of joy, and making a thousand
apologies that he had no better fare to offer such important
personages, as he chose to call them. They spent two days
with him, when circumstances no longer permitting the doc
tor's stay from home, he started on his return, leaving Mr.
Lee and Hbes to prosecute their investigations, which they
did to the coast. An account of this was afterwards pub
lished, including a merry relation of their council with the
Indians ; and the fall of their pack horse, provisions and all,
from a height of forty feet, bto the river.
Dr. White was accompanied by an Indian boy, who had

128 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
been a slave, captured in warfare when about ten years old,
by the Umpquas, from the Chestes, remaining with them for
years, until purchased by one of the Hudson's Bay Company,
who afterwards settled in the Willamette. Here the doctor
found him, and bought his freedom, and the youth accom
panied him on this as well as other excursions, and was a
valuable assistant, being an expert rider and remarkably
trusty for one of his race. They retraced their lonely way
over the mountab without any occurrence worthy of men
tioning, till they found an encampment for the night. They
built a fire beside a log and stretched themselves on the
ground ; but the doctor could not drive from his mind the
idea that he was a hundred miles from any of his own
race, and in the midst of, for aught he knew, hostile tribes,
and it dissipated the repose his weary form so much cov
eted. About sunrise, they were aroused by a fight, quick
tread, and, to their alarm, discovered advancing towards
them, on the last night's trail, a half dozen well armed Indi
ans. Springing to thier feet, they grasped the guns which
lay beside them, and stood on their guard ; but soon saw
there was no occasion for apprehensions, for the leader came
forward, trailing his weapon, and proffered his hand with
the grace of a well-bred Frenchman. His companions fol
lowed his example, and then quietly seated themselves on
the ground. They said they had heard the missionaries
were in the country, seeking for a place to settle ; that they
were glad, and had come to seek and welcome them, but
being unable to find them, had discovered the trail the day
before and followed it.
After some conversation the chief gave a slight history of
the last six years of his life. A large party of the Hud
son's Bay Company, passing through the country on their

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 129
way to California, persuaded him to go with them on a
hunting and trappbg excurson to that country. He gave a
very just description of the character of the company, light,
gay, frivolous, and sometimes profane. One only of the
party differed widely from the rest. This one the chief ob
served, at the close of eaeh day's journey, to retire to a dis
tance from the camp, and kneel in an attitude of deep devo
tion, for some length of time. This, with his calm, consist
ent demeanor, impressed the son of the forest so forcibly,
that he begged and received permission to accompany him,
and there listened to the devoted prayers and pious instruc
tions of the good man ; and it was followed by good results,
for he learned of God, His Son, and the Holy Spirit. He
longed for the time to come when he should return to his
home, for he wished to communicate to his people his lately
acquired knowledge of a religion which had imparted to his
spirit a new and delicious enjoyment.
At his strange revelations they were amazed, and, like a
" little leaven leavening a whole lump," the work began, and
spread among them, and, for a time, a forcible change was
perceivable b the whole tribe. But gradually, as it often is
in other countries, one by one they lost their first impres
sions, till, as he expressed it, pointing to his little number,
" all but these . have left me, and the good and the right
way." Tears rolled down his cheeks, and grief was visibly
portrayed on his dark face. " I've told them all I know,
and many times, till they have become tired, and now my
heart jumps within me that the missionaries are combg to
o-ive them more knowledge^ and make again God's love to
shine in their hearts."
Their listener told them all he knew of Mr. Lee's purpo
ses and invited them to visit the mission. When the time
9

130 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
for separation arrived, the little company knelt in prayer to
their Great Father, and the doctor observed with bterest
the humble, devoted bearbg of his visitors, and their emo
tions, as they listened to the words of supplication. He also,
for the first, discovered they were Catholics, by their cros
sing themselves repeatedly and devoutly. Himself and his
companions left the place, and always remembered it as a
hallowed spot, consecrated by the impressive scene they had
witnessed.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 131

CHAPTER XV.
Difficulty with Mr. Lee— Extract from a report of the board of mis
sions — Embarcation — Delightful voyage to the Islands — Danger
— Mrs. W.'s concern — The pilot again — Visitors— Exploring squad
ron — Pic-nic — Embark for the United States — Passengers — Mr.
Diell's death — Social parties — Hailing a vessel — Aarrival in port —
Bennett's express.
Soon after this expedition, arose a difficulty between Mr.
Lee and Dr. White, which was the cause of the doctor's re
turn home. It is not worth while to give the particulars ;
suffice it, that the difference was an honest one, b relation
to the best way and means of carrying forward the objects
of the mission. This small matter, as is unfortunately often
the case, gave rise to other disagreements, b which, not
only sentiment, but feelbg was enlisted. Dr. White re
signed ; and thinking it the most honorable course he could
pursue, under the circumstances, resolved, b a written cor
respondence with Mr. Lee, to state his reasons for so dobg ;
and then, with the replies, coming and laying it before the
board of missions. The proceedbg was right, had the cor
respondence been carried on with a little more moderation,
and less bitterness of spirit. The decision of the board will
be seen b the foUowbg extract from the twenty-seventh
annual report :
" The first despatches from this mission, after the arrival
of the great reinforcement, were brought b the ship Lau
sanne, and received by the board b April, 1841. Dr. Eli-

132 TKS YEARS- IN CfREGOS,
jah White, who had returned to this country in the same
vessel, presented himself before the board at its regular meet
mg, held on the twenty-first of the same month, and made
a verbal communication. From his remarks, and the de
spatches of the superintendent, it appeared that after a most
unpleasant and excited controversy between himself and Mr.
Jason Lee, he had been induced to resign his office as phy
sician to the mission. After hearing Dr. White b his de
fence, the board disapproved of his leavbg the mission with
out their consent, but directed the treasurer to settle his ac
counts. Letters were subsequently received from Messrs.
Kone and Richmond, and also signed by several lay-mem
bers of the mission, all of which bdicated- dissatisfaction
with their circumstances, and more or less, with the super-
btendent. *****
At a regular meeting, held July 17, 1843, the board re
newed the recommendation of the bishop, either to appobt
an agent, or to supersede Mr. Lee by a new superintendent.
The bishop preferred the latter course, and at their regular
meeting b the followbg September, informed the board,
that he had appobted Rev. George Gary, of the Black
River Conference, to the superbtendency of the Oregon mis
sion. This announcement was received by the most decided
expressions of gratification."
And so ended the affair, which, pabful as it was, did not
greatly bvolve the moral character of either party. Hav-
bg resigned, and the correspondence bebg ended, the doc
tor, with his family, embarked b the brig Maryland, Capt.
Couch, for the Sandwich Islands. And now for prospects
and dreams of home, after four years' residence in the far
west. They had a delightful run, with smooth seas and fair
wbds, not a storm or a calm, and arrived at the Islands

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 133
after the unusually short passage of eighteen days, both
officers and crew exertbg themselves to render it as pleas
ant and agreeable as possible.
Mrs. White was troubled and unhappy the afternoon and
evemng before they anchored. She remembered the ap
pearance of the coast, and was confident, that at the velocity
with which they were sailbg, from seven to nine knots an
hour, they would soon be on the rocks. Neither the captab
or officers had ever before been at the islands, and seemed
at a loss to determbe their position, for they frequently de
scended to the cabin, and looked anxiously over the chart.
She had just been reading of the wreck of a vessel on this
very coast, and knew by the deportment of the captain with
whom they had first sailed, that great caution should be ob
served b approachbg it. Though the doctor and other pas
sengers slept in unconscious security, she could not rest;
and though the night was pitchy dark, stood on the stairs of
the companionway, in her night dress, wrapped in a shawl,
removbg her cap from her head, that the men might not
distbguish her in the dim light of the lamps, alive with
fear that every moment the vessel would strike on the reef
they were nearing. As the hours sped by, her apprehen
sions increased, until about eleven o'clock, when, as if to ren
der their destruction inevitable, the captab descended and
turned b. Afrer a few moments, Mr. Killburn, the mate,
came down in haste, and her fears were confirmed, as she
heard him exelaim, " I'll be d — d if we are not already un
der the rocks!" They immediately cast anchor, and the
watcher retired to repose, with a light heart, rejoicbg that
their frightful peril had been discovered in time to prevent a
fatal catastrophe.
In the morning, it was found that they were only at a dis-

134 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
tance of a few hundred yards from the black rocks on the
coast. Mrs. White acquabted them with her anxious wait
ing in the companionway, which, as the danger was passed,
caused a hearty laugh, and Mr. Kilburn remarked, "yes,
he saw her hair flying in the wind, just as he went to call
the captain, and he supposed her terrors caused her to for
get her intended concealment."
Immediately after breakfast they saw their old white-
headed friend, the pilot, putting out to them in his little boat,
and they received him with joy and satisfaction ; it seemed
almost like greeting a father, so much had his kindness en
deared him to them. From him they learned the presence
of the exploring squadron at the islands, on their way to
Oregon. They were soon moored safely b the harbor of
Honolulu, where they were visited by Rev. Messrs. Smith
and Armstrong, and were invited to accompany them home.
After visiting some time among their friends, they took
lodgings with Mr. K O. Hall.
Our friends enjoyed many pleasant calls and visits from
Commodore Wilkes and Captain Hudson, who were not
more gratified at hearing intelligence from Oregon, than
were they at receiving comparatively fresh news from the
United States.
During the stay of Dr. White and family at the islands,
the gentlemen of the squadron gave a pic nic party, some
three or four miles out of town, on a beautiful plain, to
which was bvited all the missionaries, American and Eng
lish consuls, and their ladies, and finally, all the prbcipal
foreign inhabitants. It was a social, convivial occasion, and
rather a costly affair, as probably not less than eight or nine
hundred dollars were expended by the officers. The colla
tion was bountiful, and composed of all sorts of meats, dress-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 135
ed b all sorts of styles ; various fruits, both preserved and
green ; cakes, nuts, and wbes in every variety. The feast
was spread on long tables, laid under a tent of the stars and
stripes. Dr. White now negotiated with Captab Spaulding, of
Salem, Mass., for a passage to the States, on board the Lau
sanne, lying b the harbor. There were on board, besides
himself and family, Rev. John Deill, chaplain at Honolulu,
lady and four children ; Captain Couch, Lieutenant Pinkney,
of the American squadron, Midshipman Lewis, and Miss
Mary Smith, who had been on a visit to her brother at the
islands, and Mr. Grimes, who sailed with them from the
States. The gentlemanly captab made ample provision for
his passengers, furnishbg himself with live stock, so that
they had fresh meat twice a week till their arrival b New
York. Mr. Deill bebg in delicate health, was provided by the
mumficence of the gentlemen of the islands with every ac
commodation, and with six hundred and forty dollars for his
expenses. They sailed late b November — the same day that the
squadron sailed for Oregon. Their adieus were made with
much regret, as they had for weeks been associated with
the officers b pleasant scenes and enjoyments.
It is unnecessary to give a lengthy description of the
voyage, as it was much like the first, save bebg less tedious.
It was uninterruptedly pleasant, with a sbgle exception.
Mr. Deill's health continued to declbe — that insidious, fatal
disease, a consumption, preybg upon his feeble frame till
hope of life was gone. It was at sunset of a lovely day,
when they were b 40° south latitude, that he died. He talk
ed in faint whispers the whole day, calling each member of

136 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
his family to his bedside, and cheerfully conversing with
them. He then requested the presence of the captab and
each of the passengers, and described to them in glowing
language his happbess in view of his approaching change,
earnestly beseeching them to prepare for their hour of dis
solution. When he expired, his countenance evbced perfect
peace, and he was apparently in full possession of his mental
powers. Probably no man ever resided at the Sandwich
Islands, more respected and esteemed. The next day, in
compliance with his oft-repeated request, Dr. White made a
post-mortem examination, and found the left lobe of the
lungs entirely destroyed, and the right two-thirds obliter
ated, and the residue in an extremely tubercleous state, giv
ing full evidence that no one, except of his calm, quiet tem
perament, could have survived such a length of time. The
hour of bterment arrived, and with feelings of deep solem
nity, the crew and passengers congregated to witness the
last rites. The captain read the service with much emotion,
and at the proper moment the plank was raised, and the
beloved dead sank from sight into the deep blue waters.
When she heard the slight splash of the coffin, as it struck
the wave, poor Mrs. Deill swooned, and was conveyed to
the cabin, followed by the tenderest sympathies of all.
They had no boisterous weather at the Cape, but were
wafted swiftly and steadily around, and were once more in
the broad Atlantic. The time on board passed very agree
ably. They enjoyed delightful promenandes and pleasant
chats ; and often of an evenbg, the captab, or one of the offi
cers, or passengers, bvited their companions to spend an
hour with them when they were regaled with nuts, fruits,
&c, with which each one had furnished himself in abun
dance. These little reunions contributed much to the gen-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 137
eral enjoyment, and cordiality of feelbg ; and with these
and other amusements, they had little trouble in dispelling
the monotony which sometimes stole over them.
When withb a fortnight's sail of land they spoke an out
ward bound ship, from which they obtained a small supply
of fresh vegetables, and learned the election of General Har
rison to the presidency, and other home news. Their hearts
now burned with eager anticipations, but their plasure was
checked as they neared the coast, for there they encoun
tered a heavy storm. Their situation was perilous ; for
such was the violence of the gale, that the anchors dragged,
and they expected to be blown ashore. However, the stout
vessel gallantly weathered it, and they were at length safely
anchored, and ready to tread once more their dear native
soil. The first person on board was Bennett's express, who
communicated the news of the death of Harrison, and loss
of the ship President.

138 TEN YEARS TN OREGON.

CHAPTER XVI.
Trip to New York — Call on Mr. Fry — His singular behavior — Intro
ductions — Journey to Washington — Reception — Appointment to the
Sub-Agency — Death — Lizette — Starting for Oregon — Company —
Reach Havana — Separation — Sad thoughts — An old friend — Arri
val at Geneva — Curiosity excited by the Indian boys — Reach Buf
falo — Milan — Travel via. Columbus to St. Louis — Reception — Wil
liam Sublet — Kind reception at Independence — Anxieties — Meeting
of the emigration — Resolutions.
As our busbess is with Dr. White's adventures in Oregon,
perhaps it will be well to pass over the year he now spent
in the States, and give the circumstance which led to his
return to Oregon. At the expiration of the year, he had oc
casion to visit New York on business.
When about leavbg for home, he called to bid adieu to
Mr. Fry, a particular friend. After chatting awhile, he rose
to take his leave, when Mr. F. suddenly exclaimed, " doctor,
you are wanted in Washbgton." Surprised at the singular
ity of the expression, the doctor asked an explanation, and
received for answer the same, and again the third time.
"Why, sir," said the doctor, "I cannot comprehend your
meaning, but there are three thbgs certab ; I have no bu
siness at Washbgton, no friends, and do not happen to have
with me the funds requisite for the journey." Without a
word, Mr. F. drew out his purse, and handed him bills to a
sufficient amount to defray his expenses ; and then explained,
that there was busbess in relation to Oregon matters being

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 139
transacted at the capital, where his services might be useful
and acceptable.
After some reflection, the doctor concluded to accept the
proposition, and was that evening presented to Mr. Alfred
Benson, and the eldest son of Daniel Webster, from whom
he received letters to Mr. Webster, President Tyler, and Mr.
Upsher. He arrived b Washbgton the 25th of January, and met
with a kind reception from Mr. Lynn, John C. Spencer, and
other heads of departments,.
He spent a few pleasant days b the city, and unexpect
edly received the commission of agent of Indian affairs, from
the secretary of war, under the direction of the president.
He started for home, and on his arrival b Auburn, about
thirty miles from Lansbg, was met by a messenger, with
the sad tidbgs that his youngest child, a sweet little girl of
three years, was dead. Thus, while he had been happily
engaged in his pursbts at Washington, his home had been
overshadowed with the heavy cloud of grief, and the hearts
of its dear bmates stricken with angbsh.
They felt their loss deeply, but none seemed to mourn so
agomsbgly as Lizette, who had been the nurse of the de
parted one from its earliest infancy. She had always felt
for it almost a mother's tenderness, and this attachment b-
creased while they were at the Sandwich Islands, and during
their voyage home.
I believe I have not before mentioned Lizette. She was
a native of Oregon, who came to live with Mrs. White before
little Jason's death, and was old enough to grieve deeply
at the pabful shock. She, with her two sisters, were
early left orphans. Their mother died when they were very
young. They then lived for some years with their relations,

140 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
when their father, who doted on his children, carried them
to Fort Vancouver. Lizette was the eldest of the three, and
her next sister, Angelique, was a beautiful, but delicate
child. While at the fort, they unfortunately lost their kind
father. He went out on a hunting and trapping excursion,
and was thrown from his horse, a spirited hunter, and died
in a few hours, and it was thought by his signs, fof he was
unable to speak, that his last thoughts were of his poor girls.
They were now left alone, and Lizette was of an age to be
capable of realizing pabfully that they must hereafter look to
strangers for home and care. Her greatest anxiety was for
her frail Angelique, whose slight constitution could ill sup
port the fatigues and labors that could those of her stronger
sisters. But, through the exertions of their friends, smtable
places were found for both Sophie and Angelique, and Li
zette was placed with Mrs. White. She accompanied her to
the States, from a curiosity to see the civilized world, of
which she heard so much, expecting to return to Oregon.
She has heard that her sisters are both married very happily,
and longs to return — which she intends to do soon — to the
woods and plains of her own beautiful country, and once
more clasp in her arms her beloved sisters.
Soon after the doctor's return, he was visited by three
young men, Alexander, William, and John McKay, natives
of Oregon, who had been educated at Wilberham, Mass.
At the time of Mr. Lee's visit to the States, they travelled
with him, as also did William Brooks, who I have before
mentioned. William did not return to Oregon, but died
b New York city. He was a most estimable young man,
of a sweet, amiable disposition, and Mr. Lee very much regret
ted his death, saybg that he was of more valuable assist
ance to him than any other person b the mission. As they

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 141
were all bound for Oregon, the doctor, with Nathabel
Crocker, Esquire, of Lansing, concluded to go in company
with the McKays. Mrs. WMte took leave of them at Ith
aca, from whence they went by stage to Havana, at the head
of Seneca lake.
At Havana they found Mr. Medorum Crawford, now mem
ber of assembly in Oregon, who decided to accompany them
thither. Not far from here the parents of Dr. White resided ; and
when he embarked on board the steam-boat, they, with his
brothers and sisters, and many dearly loved friends, accom-
pamed them to the wharf. They exchanged farewells ; and
as the boat slowly pushed off, three spontaneous cheers rose
from the multitude, rousing the echoes from the shores of
the beautiful lake, as the prow cleft the sparkling waters-
The reflection that he should not again see his dear family
for years, if for life, and the distance which would intervene
between them and himself, haunted the doctor's mbd, and
saddened his heart.
As they were passing Starkey's ferry, a signal was hoisted,
and the boat put in ; when, to the doctor's joy, his friend,
General Demotte, stepped on board. In answer to his en
quiries, he gave him an account of his btended expedition.
His listener was so cheerful and interested, that his gloomy
thoughts were partially dissipated, till tbey were near the
spot where little George so nearly lost his life six years pre
vious. There the spell of rembiscence stole over him, and
his mbd wandered insensibly back to former scenes. George's
fearful death, the trials and changes which they had experi
enced in Oregon ; in short, the whole of their life there seem
ed to pass in review before him.
That night they were at Geneva, and in a short time the

142 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
news of the arrival of three Oregon youths spread through
the village. Numbers visited them, and I need not say how
much bterest was excited by these noble young men. At
last they became wearied with so much attention ; besides,
not bebg wantbg in fine sensibilities, and, with Mr. Crocker,
retired, leaving Dr. White to make their apologies to the
remainder of their curious callers.
The next day they started for Buffalo, where they were
detabed by a severe storm, which gave the doctor an oppor
tunity of enjoying a pleasant visit with his friend, Mr. Israel
Chamberlain. On the mornbg of the 21st, the party embarked for Milan,
Ohio, where they arrived after a very stormy voyage. This
was the residence of Mr. Alpheus Shaw, on whom Dr. White
called, and who entertabed serious thoughts of joining the
expedition. On the route to St. Lobs they found considerable bterest
felt b Oregon affairs, as the following extract from a letter
will briefly show :
"Once more the sweet Sabbath of the Lord dawns upon
me, and I alive to enjoy its sacred privileges, and thbk of
those I have left behind. To-night I am requested to occu
py the pulpit of the distinguished Mr. Judson, a Presbyte
rian clergyman. To-morrow I put out, takbg with me, I
hope, Mr. Shaw, with whom I have had some sweet seasons
of private devotion, as well as of social intercourse. One
day later, and a pleasant one, as far as weather is concerned,
though I am a little inclined to be solitary — have been think-
bg of home, Oregon, past and future, and with the good
man of old, I can say in truth, ' I would not live alway.'
Last night all the other appointments were taken up to hear
me lecture on Oregon, and as the weather was fine, and

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 143
travellbg good, the noble church was filled, the pulpit lbed
with mbisters of all denominations, and I talked an hour
and a half with all my might. * * * «
Mr. Shaw has, an hour since, received a communication, ma
lting it impossible for him to accompany me.
Six days later, and a sweet Sabbath it is, indeed, as I am
in Louisville, Kentucky. A mile at least removed from all
my associates, qbetly seated alone, forgetting the bright sun
that shbes bto my apartment, and the verdure around me,
to thbk of, and in this way to talk with my own dear, dis
tant family. Thus far, our journey has been prosperous and
pleasant. Two days later, and we are at St. Lobs ; found
a brother and his family, b Cincbnati, whom I had not seen
for many years ; all well, and extremely happy to see me."
At St. Louis they were kbdly received, and every thbg
b relation to Oregon heard with attention, as the bterest felt
b the country, by the people of that state, was deep and
growbg. They had long known the necessity of sending a
person to perform the duties of the doctor's office, and his
appointment seemed to add new impetus to their hopes, for
the extension of our jurisdiction over the territory. Dr.
White here met William Sublet, who was one of the first to
discover the southern pass through the Rocky Mountains,
and by bis traffic, and adventures there, amassed a hand
some fortune. The party separated at St. Lobs, a portion
travelling by land, Dr. White and Mr. Crawford by steam
boat. They met five days after at Independence ; the first
givbg a most amusbg relation of their journey, not omittbg
the ham, eggs, and hominy they had lived upon, while the
others, as is common with travellers in that section, and at
that season of the year, were complaining dolefully of the
disagreeable water they had been obliged to drink on their

J 44 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
passage up the river. I need not dwell on the particulars
of their reception, as the warm, cordial habits of the ex
treme western people are generally so well understood.
With a view to increase their numbers, Dr. White visited
Platte city and county, and some portions of Jackson, of
which Independence was the county seat.
Additions were made to the party till it amounted to one
hundred and twelve persons. While they were coming in,
which they did from Illinois, Arkansas, and .Missouri, occur
red the attempted murder of Gov. Boggs, who was shot
through the head, while sittbg near a wbdow, perusing a
newspaper. It caused great excitement, and many, espe
cially strangers in the town, were arraigned before a select
committee and exambed. Through the testimony of one,
who had observed him loitering about, the evebng of the
attempt, aMormon was suspected, and arrested. For nearly
a year he was imprisoned, when, as no positive evidence was
elicited to confirm his guilt, he was liberated. The poor suf
ferer was horribly mutilated, and though, with a loss of a
portion of the brain, after three months' tedious ilbess, re
covered. The particular reason for suspecting a Mormon
was, that Boggs sent a body of militia agabst this people
b one of their first engagements, and they had, therefore,
sworn deadly vengeance agabst him. This high-mbded,
and enterprisbg gentleman afterwards removed to Califor
nia. The 14th of May had now arrived, and the emigrating
party were rendezvoused at Elm Grove, twenty miles south
west of Independence, and on the mornbg of the 15th Dr.
White took leave of the beautiful town of Independence. In
travellbg through the adjoining sections, together with Platte
County, he was much pleased with the apparent fertility

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 145
of the soil and variety of the scenery. He felt now that he
was taking a farewell of friends, and civilized life, and his emo
tions of grief were more poignant than any he had before expe
rienced. He had not now his family to sympathize with him,
and a sense of almost utter loneliness crept over his heart.
His anxiety was bcreased by a visit he had received from Mr.
Sublet, who declared it his opbion, from only seventeen days'
experience with such a party, that it would be perfectly im
possible for him to take through the country so large a com
pany of men, women, and children ; that he could not pre
serve order, discipline, and good feeling among them, and
the consequences to be feared were, that every one would be
destroyed, or cut off by the Indians. It caused the doctor
great uneasiness and depression. This was the first exper
iment of the kbd ever made b that direction ; the distance,
as computed by Fremont, was nearly twenty-seven hundred
miles, through hordes of strange savages. A meetbg of
the emigration was called to consider this and other subjects,
and to make regulations. The following resolutions were
adopted :
Resolved, That every male, over the age of eighteen
years, shall be provided with one mule, or horse, or wagon
conveyance ; shall have one gun, three pounds of powder,
twelve pounds of lead, one thousand caps, or suitable flints,
fifty pounds of flour, or meal, and thirty pounds of bacon,
and a suitable proportion of provisions for women and cbl-
dren ; and, if any present be not so provided, he shall be
rejected. Resolved, That Dr. White now exhibit to the meetbg, to
be read by the secretary, any document from the war de
partment, in his possession, showing his appointment to any
office b the Oregon territory ; which, bebg done, on motion,
10

146 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
Resolved, That we elect a captain for one month, from and
after this day.
Resolved, That, for the benefit of all those who may here
after move to Oregon, and that government may be well in
formed of the road, its obstructions, means of subsistence,
eminences, depressions, distances, bearings, etc., there be now
elected a scientific corps, to consist of three persons, who
shall keep a faithful and true record of every thbg useful
to government, or future emigrants.
This corps consisted of C. Lancaster, S. W. Hastings, and
A. L. Lovejoy. James Coates, was elected pilot, and Na
thaniel Crocker, secretary.
Resolved, That H. Burns be appointed master black
smith, with power to choose two others, and also, to call to
his aid the force of the company.
Resolved, That John Hoffstutter be appointed master
wagon maker, with like power with the blacksmith.
Resolved, That the captain appoint a master road and
bridge bblder, with like powers.
Resolved, That a code of laws be drafted, and submitted
to the company, and that they be enforced by reprimand,
fines, and final bamshment.
Resolved, unabmously, That there shall hereafter be no
profane swearing, no obscene conversation, or immoral con
duct, allowed b the company, on pain of expulsion.
Resolved, That the names of every man, woman, and
child be registered by the secretary.
Which bebg done,
Resolved, That this meetbg now adjourn, to meet again
at Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia river, on the first day
of October next, the powers of Heaven willing.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 147

CHAPTER XVII.
Departure— Emotions— A friend— Manner of camping— Order of the
morning— Dog slaughter— Sickness of a child— Detained two days
— Difficulty in crossing Caw river — Increasing illness of the child 
Its death — The mother becomes ill — Mr. and Mrs. L. obliged to re
turn — Undulating country— Big Blue— Divide— Rainy night— Buf
falo — Platte river and plain— Fuel— South fork of the Platte — Chim
ney and castle — Singular scenery — Arrival at Fort Laramy — Cost of
flour, etc. — Bridger and company — Alarming incident.
As they left their beautiful encampment, it was a noble
sight. The eighteen wagons, with their snow wbte covering,
wbdbg down the long hill, followed by the immense trab
of horses, mules, and cattle of all kbds, their drivers walk-
bg by theb side, merrily sbgbg, or wbstfing, to beguile
their way. As Dr. Wbte stood on an elevation, he cast his
eyes forward towards the wastes and wilds of the savage
world they were to traverse, and back to bs own loved,
pleasant land, and it need not be bquired whether his re
flections were of a very joyous nature. He felt much as he
did two days previous, when parting with bs old friend,
Philip L. Edwards, whom he had known b Oregon. He had
crossed the mountabs with Mr. Lee, subsequently returned,
and was now residbg b western Missouri. He was greatly
bterested, and such were his sympathies for the doctor,
that, had circumstances permitted, he would cheerfully have
accompanied bm to the territory.
Some curiosity may be felt as to the manner b wbch the
wayfarers disposed of themselves, and herds especially,

148 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
through the night. They travelled all day, steadily onward,
till four o'clock b the afternoon, when they halted. As
large a circle was made as could be formed by the wagons
drawn up, one bebnd another, and the mules, horses, etc.,
with ropes of perhaps fifty feet in length, attached to them,
turned loose upon the prairie to feed till evening. Each per
son then bblt a fire opposite his own wagon, and while this
was being done, 'the females were preparing food for cook
ing. Two forked sticks were driven into the ground, a pole
laid aoross, and the kettle swung upon it. Those who had
tables, set them out, while others laid the cloth upon the
ground, and seated themselves around, after the fashion of
olden time, partakbg of the food before them with appe
tites not at all wanting in keenness. After the meal, they
usually enjoyed a season of recreation, saunterbg about at
their leisure, and it was really the most delightful portion of
the day. At sunset, the horses were caught, and each by
his rope fastened to a stake, at sbtable distances, and
left for the mght. Sentinels were then stationed at different
pobts, and in all directions were next heard the blows of the
axes and hammers of the men, driving the stakes and pre
paring the tents.* Most of the women and children slept b
the comfortable, Pennsylvania covered wagons, and the men
on blankets spread under the tents, with coats and saddles
far pillows^ As day dawned, according to a law, made as
b other republics, by a majority of votes, at a given signal,
ereej one rose to prepare for departure. The boys went
out ball directions to collect the teams and herds, which
often detabed them for several hours, as the cattle would
sometimes wander off for miles. The first meal bebg over,
the dshes bcely stowed, and everything pronounced b rea
diness, he who had taken the lead the day previous, went to

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 149
the rear, while the next b order took his place. This rule
was bvariably observed, as it prevented any feelbg that oth
ers were preferred to them.
They passed on to the south-west, leavbg the Santa Fe
trail to the left, nothbg out of the common routbe occur
ring, till they reached what they afterwards designated as
the dog encampment.
Here, by a two-thirds vote, it was determined to kill all
the dogs of the company, havbg been informed, that, b
crossbg the mountabs, and their vicbity, these animate
were apt to become rabid, as timber was scarce, and conse
quently water, which they so much required in the heats of
summer, on the scorchbg plains. This arrangement did not
at all accord with the feelings of the ladies, and caused the
first serious disturbance sbce leavbg the states. While the
destruction was gobg on, the poor ereatures would run to
their mistresses for protection, crybg most piteously. Even
the men, while engaged in their task, found their hearts
were not sufficiently steeled, to permit its performance, with
out feelings of sorrow and regret. However, the recollec
tion of a freshly related account of the mad wolf, wbch had
bitten eleven of two encampments, strengthened their forti
tude ; the death of the dogs was preferable to those of their
herds, and perhaps members of their famihes, and they went
resolutely about the work, amid the cries and screams of the
women and children, as well as of the victims.
While here, the child of Mr. Lancaster, of Platte city,
was taken very ill, and they were unable to move for two
days ; after wbch, they went on until they reached the Caw
river, a hundred miles above Independence.
This is a large and not ubmportant branch of the Mis
souri, and, except at occasional pobts, difficult to pass ; and

150 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
the expedition was much embarrassed as to the mode of
crossbg. At last a plan suggested itself, which was to lay
boards across the wagon boxes, and place the baggage upon
them. In four hours they had the joy of seeing their effects
landed uninjured on the opposite bank.
Here they found the child was rapidly growing worse,
and it was concluded best for the party to go on, with the
exception of an attendant, leavbg Dr. White with the sor
rowing parents. For a day and a half, their efforts to save
her were incessant and unwearying, but vain. The sweet
little one, their only child, died, with no one but themselves
to close its eyes, and compose its tender form for burial.
The doctor and attendant made it a coffin of rough boards,
and bterred it near a beautiful tree, with a few shrubs and
bushes to guard the lonely grave. After all was over, they
begged to be left alone, and oh, the heart-breakbg anguish
of those parents over their lost darlbg ! They sat on the
damp ground, clasped in each other's arms, as though they
would never tear themselves from the sacred spot, and moan
ed and wept as those who would not be comforted. At last,
in compliance with the doctor's urgings, they arose and fol
lowed the party. As they rode over the plains, Mr. Lan
caster entered into conversation, and became calm and con
siderably relieved ; his manifestations of grief were less vio
lent, and when they overtook their friends, both mourners
were qbte composed.
But this dreadful blow, with the hardships of the jour
ney, proved too much for Mrs. L.'s delicate frame, and she
became very ill. With great difficulty they prosecuted two
days' farther journey, when all conceived her at the pobt of
death. Dangerous as were delays, from respect for Mr. L.
and bs amiable lady, the company lay by for three days,

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 151
when they were obliged to leave them, painful as it was to
both parties, to retrace their way to the states, a distance of
one hundred und seventy miles.
They now pushed their way through an undulating coun
try, abounding in deer, elk, rabit, and hare, besides, a vari
ety of wild fowl. Having crossed the Big Blue without dif
ficulty, they hastened on to the great Divide, where they
encamped. They pitched upon the summit of the Divide,
where they had one- of the most pelting rams of the journey.
As they imagined they might be b the vicbity of the
Pawnee Indians, they stationed sentbels, who found their
posts any thbg other than enviable, as they were obliged
to endure for three or four hours, severe drenchings, accom
panied with strong wbds. The dusk of another day brought
them to the Platte in great excitement, for this was a point
to which they had long been lookbg forward, as they wobd
then soon obtain their first sight of buffalo. Another day,
and they were in view of an immense herd. At this, the
old hunters showed all the animation of their profession, and
absolutely almost danced for joy.
A portion of the company immediately went out, and suc
ceeded in driving one of the creatures to the river, where
they killed it. All collected with great curiosity to see the
first slaughtered buffalo, which was, indeed, a huge ammal ;
being, as was judged, three times the size of a common ox.
After this, they saw numerous herds, as they passed through
an almost timberless country.
They found the Platte as had been represented, broad,
and shallow, timber scarce, and water poor. The plain is
from two to six miles in breadth, after which, it becomes un
dulating, and finally looses itself b the high hills or moun-
tabs beyond.

152 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
Theparty were some of the time destitute of wood, and
for substitute used the skull bones and manure of the buf
falo. At the south fork of the Platte, they had considerable
difficulty. They chained the wagons together, and the hor
ses likewise, to the number of six or eight teams, and under
took a crossing of perhaps three-fourths of a mile. The
men on horseback by the side of the teams, from the roaring
of the waters, now unusually high and boisterous, were obli
ged to raise their voices to the very keenest pitch, for the
poor creatures to hear them. The loadbg, as at the Caw
River, was elevated, and the women and children huddled
on the top of it. They were beyond the reach of the water,
but their pale faces and violent tremor, showed their ex
cessive fear. Indeed, it was not without danger ; for about
the same time, the following year, several wagons were
here overturned, the effects lost, and many very near being
drowned. The whole scene was one of intense interest.
They now passed over eighteen miles of rolling land, inter
spersed with thin clumps of timber, along the ravbes which
intervened between the southern and northern branches of
the river. At the northern branch they found wood b pla
ces a little more plentiful ; game more abundant ; and the
flat narrower.
In this vicbity they saw the famous castle spoken of by
Mr. Parker, and the chimney likewise, of which he did not have
a view. The former is composed of large masses of clayey
stones, piled together, and scattered about in a manner re
sembling the rubs of a large castle. The chimney, which
they distinguished at nearly two days' travel from the spot,
was strikingly like the contemplated Washbgton Monument ;
a column runmng up to the height of, perhaps, two hundred

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 153
feet, from the centre of which shoots up a tall spire, very
much the shape of a chimney.
The scenery became more and more smgular ; fallen col
umns, blocks of massy stone, and broken walls. At inter
vals, there were collections and groups, havbg the appear
ance of ruinous castles, monasteries, towers, and every de
scription of massive buildbg. Tbs was, to the travellers,
curious, grand, and picturesque, and entirely dissimilar to
any thing they had before witnessed. The river forms an
elbow at this pobt, and the surface was agab more broken
as they approached the Platte.
A few days longer of monotonous, undisturbed journeying,
and they arrived at Fort Laramy, the great central tradbg
post of the American Fur Company, between six and seven
hundred miles from the Ubted States, and but a few miles
from the Black Hills, supposed by some to be spurs of the
Rocky Mountabs.
The following is an extract of a letter from Dr. White to
his family : " Fort Laramy, July 2d.
" It gives me almost infinite pleasure to have an opportu-
bty of writing to you, and I am most fully assured that yon
will receive as much pleasure in reading as I b writing.
* * * I am now b an Indian country, with foes
on every hand, subtle as the devil himself; but our party is
large and strong, and I have been able to obtab the services
of Mr. Fitz Patrick, one of the ablest and most suitable men
in the country, b conductbg us to Fort Hall, beyond the
pobt of danger from savages. We have travelled three-
fourths of the way to the mountabs, suffering no calamity b
property, even to the loss of a wagon spoke, or cripplbg of

154 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
an animal, although we have crossed the Caw and Platte riv
ers, and every stream of danger. * * The
expedition is a popular one, though to me one of great care
and pabful solicitude ; and yet my good health, surround-
bg scenery, variety of birds, animals, &c, tend to keep alive
my sinking spirits, in the midst of distressing cares and anx
ious busbess.
"Esqbre Crocker wishes me to say that he likes sleepbg
out of doors on a sbgle blanket, very well ; and feedbg on
fat buffalo meat alone, first rate.
" Ewbg Young is dead. Died insane soon after we left
Oregon. " Missionaries all well."
At this fort they exchanged herds for fresh horses, and
purchased materials for food — some at enormous rates. For
flour, for instance, they were charged half a dollar per pint ;
coffee, tea, sugar, &c, correspondbg — all of which they
were obliged to have, as many of the party were, by this
time, destitute of the articles.
They spent a week b refitting and preparing more thor
oughly for crossing the mountains, besides giving the poor
animals a season of needful rest.
At last they started, and had proceeded scarce a mile on
their way, when, to their joy, they met Mr. Fitz Patrick, who
was escorting Mr. Bridger and a party, who occupied a post
near the base of the opposite side of the mountains, and who
was now on his way to the States, with a large quantity of
furs. Obtabing Mr. F. P. for a gbde, as was stated in the let
ter, they travelled seven days, through a portion of the Black
Hills, which they found the most difficult part of the route,
thus far ; the heights being so steep and rugged, that it was

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 155
only by the hardest labor they succeeded b climbbg them,
having to attach several teams together, and then applybg
their own "shoulders to the wheel."
Farther oh than this, they reached Independence Rock'
with but one circumstance worthy of notice, and of this I find
mention b another letter home : "Fort Hall, August 15, 1842.
" Our journey has been laborious, but pleasant. But one
person has died, and he, poor fellow, was accidentally shot
through, and died b thirty mbutes. He was a useful man,
and it gave a dreadfb shock to us all. The next day, at
eight o'clock, as there was no clergyman, I was called upon
to deliver a funeral discourse, near Independence Rock, b
the midst of the mountains ; and while I talked to all the
company, who went on foot a mile to the grave, a general
weepbg prevailed among us ; and when, b the course of
my brief, but solemn lecture, I said, ' let us pray,' to my
astobshment, nearly every man, woman, and child dropped
upon their knees to implore divbe blessbg and protection.
It was the most solemn funeral by far that any of us ever
attended, or probably ever will."
Independence Rock is of an oval form, covering several
acres, and of a gramte substance. It is from seventy to one
hundred feet in height, isolated, being thrown up b the
midst of an extensive plab. It had been the custom of all
who passed, to bscribe their names upon it ; and accord
ingly, a portion of the party did so. Dr. White and Mr.
Crocker had finished theirs, and left Hastings and Lovejoy,
who were dobg theirs with greater care. They had been
gone scarce ten mbutes, when a large party of the Sioux
Indians came round from the north side of the rock, and,

156 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
rushing upon them, stripped them of most of their effects,
and made strong demonstrations of an intention to kill Love-
joy. Hastbgs could not account for their not manifestmg
a like disposition towards him, otherwise than that he was
possessed of a very dark complexion, and therefore more like
themselves than poor Lovejoy. They detabed them for some
hours, when a very grave consultation was held, and they
concluded to advance towards the company of whites with
their prisoners. Meanwhile, the party had become extremely
anxious, because of the absence of their friends, and were
happy to see them again, though b the possession of their
captors ; for they were now assured of their bebg alive,
when they had feared it was otherwise. They were con-
vbced that the btentions of the savages were hostile, and
therefore the wagons were drawn into a circle, and the wo
men and children stowed bto them, and every disposition
made for battle. They were keenly alive to the awkward
ness and danger of their situation — at least eight hundred
and fifty miles from the States, and before them several
hundreds of the most warlike tribe in the country. They
were at a quarter of a mile's distance, when Mr. Fitz Patrick
went forward to meet them, makbg demonstrations of peace,
and a desire that they should stop. His repeated signs were
disregarded, and they rode steadily onward, till nearly with
in gun-shot, when they suddenly halted, apparently btimi-
dated by the array. After a short pause, Hastbgs and
Lovejoy were liberated, and ran joyfully to their friends, the
tears rollbg down their cheeks as they recounted their es
cape. It would seem that the cupidity, as well as the fear,
of the savages, had influenced them to free their captives,
hopbg that the price to be paid for them would outweigh

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 167
any advantage that would arise from their detention. But
in this they were disappomted ; for they only received a few
presents of tobacco, and other inconsiderable articles ; and
after annoying the whites for some time, seeing they were
fully on their guard, left them in peace.

loS TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

CHAPTER XVIII.
Buffalo Hunting — Mother Bennett — Tobacco scrape — Sweetwater
Valley — Indian Village — Preparations for defence — Happy disap-
- pointment — Snow — Great Divide — Fitz Patrick's announcement —
View — Two streams — Little Sandy — Separation — Reach Green
river — The valley — Visit from a grisley bear — Animating chase —
Another separation — Difficult travelling — Storm — Soda spring — Ar
rival at Fort Hall — Set off in company with McDonald — Another
division — Herding district — Natives — Snake river — Drowning of a
man — Fort Boicc — Burnt River Valley — Boiling spring — Doctor ob
tains a guide to Dr. Whitman's — Arrival there — Departure for Walla-
walla — Two days' stay there — Formation of the Cascade Mountains
— Petrifactions — A rock — Bluffs — Fort Vancouver mills — Willa
mette — Excitement at the Doctor's arrival and appointment — A
meeting — Its doings — Preparations for receiving the reinforcement —
Meetings to establish a provisional form of government — A tribu
nate — Disturbance among the Indians at Wallawalla and Clearwa
ter — Call for the Agent's interference.
At tbs point the emigration lay several days, supposing
they would soon be out of the buffalo district. The hunters
spread about the plains b pursbt of game, and they began
jerking meat for the remamder of the journey. This was
done by placbg a net-work of sticks, about four feet above
a fire, the meat cut bto tbn slices and laid upon it ; and in
this way both smoked and dried.
As they were thus engaged, the camp would often be
thrown into excitement, by the men runnbg in b great ter
ror, stating that they had been chased, and, in some instan-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 159
ces, overtaken and robbed, by maraudbg parties of the
Sioux. One day, one of these affrighted parties arrived, and the
mother of a lad of eighteen, named Bennett, took it into her
head that her boy, who was absent, though in an opposite
direction, was in danger. She began running about the
camp with immense strides — for she was almost a giantess —
screaming and halloobg equal to any wild Indian, wrbging
and clapping her hands, and tearing her hair. " Oh, my
Philly is dead ! my Philly is dead ! Turn out, men ! turn
out!"- It affected all her hearers rather comically, though
they sympathized with the distracted woman ; for her agony,
though drolly acted, was terrible. With all possible des
patch, the men armed, and were just starting out to seek
the lost one, when b walked Philly, very qbetly, bearing
upon his shoulder a huge piece of buffalo meat, all uncon
scious that he had liked to become the hero of a tragedy,
the effect of which was now spoiled, and turned bto a farce.
About tbs time, too, came off another affair — though not
an isolated case — more serious, but scarcely less comical. It
was in relation to that very important herb, tobacco ; and
between two gentlemen, who, till then, had been most cordi
ally attached. They were both bcorrigible lovers of tobac
co, which was becombg rather scarce, one of them being
entirely destitute, havbg for some time been dependant upon
the generosity of the other for supplies ; till he, fearful that
his store would be exhausted, refused to part with more.
Tbs provoked the anger of the refused, and they had a most
furious quarrel, wbch resulted b their becombg as bitter
enemies, as they had before been warm friends. The de
pression and languor caused by the scarcity of the article, b
the absence of bread stuffs, salt, and all other stimulating

160 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
diet ; and, indeed, nearly all articles of food, save meat, gen
erated much wrangling and unhappbess, and created in
those who disliked the " Virgbia weed," a still greater dis
gust than they had ever before entertained.
Two days after the tobacco squall, they raised camp, and,
well laden with jerked meat, departed in good cheer. Their
route now lay through Sweetwater Valley.
The valley received a verification of its name, from the
foUowbg circumstance :
A company were once passing the stream, and durbg a
drunken carousal, emptied into it a large bag of sugar,
thereby, as they said, christenbg it, and declaring it should
hereafter be called Sweetwater Valley, as long as water
ran. It was a very verdant section, and the animals impro
ved better upon it, than during any other part of the jour
ney. They now found themselves rapidly approaching the
Rocky Mountabs, and the timber, not in great variety, and
of stinted growth. They saw many appearances, which re
minded them of the name of the mountabs, and the large
masses of rock they found, convbced them of its fitness.
Near this they came in view of an Indian village, contain
ing perhaps five hundred lodges. Tbs caused great conster
nation, and seeking a proper place, they halted, and formed
for defence as qbckly as possible. They discovered signs
which they feared were not of pacific character. Three
large compabes of savages collected from the lodges, each
bearing in front a fine flag, one of England, one of the
United States, and a third of the Hudson's Bay Company,
perhaps eight men abreast, advanced in a qbck, though
orderly manner. This, Dr. White says, with one exception,
was the most imposbg array of Indians, the noblest, best

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 161
proportioned, men he ever saw. Himself, Hastbgs, Fitz
Patrick, and. Lovejoy, went forward to meet them, when
several chiefs separated from their fellows, and came to
wards them. After a short conversation by signs and
gestures, they accompanied the white men to their camp.
Here they entertabed and presented them a few pres
ents, and then started forward, they remabbg with, and
escortbg them, till out of sight of the village, when they
left them, with much apparent good feelbg. So the affair
endtd. There were, b all, at least two thousand Indians,
and they might easily have dsstroyed the expedition, and
theb fate never have been learned by their friends at home.
As they neared the great southern pass, the weather be
came cold and damp. Although early b August, every
where around, b spots obscured from the direet rays of the
sun, lay little patches of snow.
While they were passbg along here, Fitz Patrick announ
ced, that they were now crossing the Great Divide, and b
ten minutes would be b Oregon. Before the ji, on the north
side of the pass, the mountabs towered high, their summits
covered with snows ; and at an bterval of from thirty-five
to fifty miles, lay another vast chain, stretchbg far away to
the south. It is singular, that b this pass, sprang two
streams ; one runnbg west, emptybg itself bto the Pacbc,
the other east,, and, through btervenbg rivers, finally mbg-
ling with the waters of the Atlantic.
While gazbg through this pass, it seems almost a Provi
dential arrangement, that a portion cf the mountabs, to tbs
extent, had either been stricken entirely from among them,
or sunk to the level of the surrounding country ; and it
would be perfectly practicable to construct a railway through-
the opening. 11

162 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
I hardly need say, that all were delighted at the prospect
of soon being on the western side of the mountains, descend -
bg to the Valley of the Willamette. Two hours later, and they
were to the Little Sandy, the first stream of consequence
at which they were encamped, whose waters discharged
bto the Pacific. Here twelve of the party, who were ex
tremely desirous of advancing more rapidly, divested them
selves of carts, wagons, and all unnecessary encumbrances,
and went on, leavbg the general encampment to follow more
leisurely, to Fort Hall. This was not accomplished without
a struggle, with those who remained ; some being grieved,
and others provoked, at being left behind.
After six days' travel, they reached Green river, or Colo
rado, throwing itself bto the Bay of St. Francisco. This is
a beautifb stream, but there was jsome difficulty in fordbg
it with the teams, as the water was deep and rapid. After
crossing, they remained two days on the banks, and found
the valley verdant, and rather pretty,' when contrasted with
the sand plains around it.
First day, at noon camping, the teams bebg disposed of,
fires made, and dinner nearly ready, a monstrous Rocky
Mountab bear walked into the encampment ; and, in great
agitation, the women and children fled to the wagons, and
the men to arms. Alexander McKay, true to the habits of his
ancestors, was the first on horseback, rifle b hand. In this
he was quickly followed, and the whole camp in uproarous
confusion. By this time brbn had tacked about, and, bang !
bang ! bang ! went the guns. He ran up the river shore, when,
thinking it quite as safe, he dashed into the current, the '
party after him in full speed, to the opposite bank. Finding
himself too hotly pursued, he agab plunged madly into the
water, the men following close at his heels till he reached

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 163
the shore; when the poor creature, utterly bewildered, sprang
into a thicket of willows and poplars, wbch had formerly
been burned over, and was full of timber, both standing and
fallen. They were determined to secure him at all hazards,
and resolved to set fire to the wood, and burn him from his
hiding place. Accordingly, applymg a brand to a few dead
limbs, the light flames soon curled in volumes to the heav
ens. A circle was formed round the clump, which was,
perhaps, one hundred and forty feet by forty, every man
with gun in hand, ready to lay the beast dead at his feet the
moment he should appear. Followed by a cloud of smoke,
he at last emerged from his no longer safe retreat ; but b-
stantly meetbg his deadly foe, he wheeled to the right,
when, coming in contact with another sentinel, in confusion
turned his head over his shoulder ; but, General Scott-like,
dreading the fire in the rear, he determined to charge ; and,
breaking the ranks, dashed again bto the river. By this
time the panic-stricken crew, qbte as much frightened at
bruin's appearance as he was at theirs, awoke from their rev
erie, and peppered away at him in fine style, . after he was
entirely out of reach. " They remounted and put after him ;
but he, improving from " experience and observation," -was
safely ensconced in a thicket, from which he cobd not be
dislodged. So his pursuers returned to the camp, rather
crest-fallen, but each endeavoring to console himself by
boasting how many bullets he had lodged in him.
Here, as they were no longer in danger from hostile Indi
ans, thirty decided to follow the other party to Fort Hall.
But they had a tedious time, as also did the wagons behbd ;
the baggage, in spite of all their efforts, becoming thoroughly.
wet, and consequently heavier, by the hard driving rains,
This continued several days ; and, in his thirty years' expe-

164 TEN TEARS IN OREGON.
rienceinthe mountabs, Fitz Patrick said he had not witness
ed such a storm.
On their way they passed the Soda Springs, on Bear river.
TMs is a singular spot ; the scenery around it novel and pic
turesque. These fountains afford the purest soda water, and
b the largest quantities of any b the world, so far as I have
learned. As nearly as they could ascertab, withb two or
three miles, there are twenty or thirty springs, many, even,
issuing from the bed of the river.
Four days' longer march through an bterestbg and ver
dant country, brought them to Fort Hall. This fort was
built by Captab Wyethe, an American adventurer, b 1834 ;
and subsequently it was sold to the Hudson's Bay Company.
It is in the midst of an extensive plab, of greater verdure
and fertility than any other known in tbs part of the coun
try* Wheat and potatoes grow well, but are very generally
out off by the frosts. Their reception was of the kbdest
character, and they spent a week very pleasantly, with Mr.
Grant and his worthy associate, McDonald, who made ad
vantageous exchanges of commodities, and afforded them
every facility in their power for their farther journeying.
Flour cost them but half what it did at Fort Laramy, al
though) conveyed on horseback eight hundred miles.
They had now eight hundred miles to travel, and sat out
with renewed vigor and spirits, in company with McDonald,
clerk of the Hudson's Bay Company. Two days convinced
them of the impossibility of keepbg pace with him, with
tneir pack animals ; so they agab divided, leaving several
b eharge of them, while the remamder went on with Mc
Donald, They found the country variegated with grassy spots and
sandy plains ; on the whole, for several hundred miles, be-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 105
bg of little worth, except for grazbg. At Salmon Falls were
large numbers of natives, who, as is common at the rendez
vous all along the branches of the Columbia, were rude and
saucy. They were deplorably destitute ; but salmon bebg
plenty, were, particularly the youth, remarkably fat and
ruddy. Portions of this tribe, though so healthy in appear
ance, were often, early in the spring, so reduced, that they
were obliged to feed upon grass.
In a few days they reached the crossbg of Snake river,
which they found dangerous and difficult. They were obli
ged to go directly across for a considerable distance, .and
then b an angling direction up the river, making a long ride
before reaehbg the opposite bank. One of their number,
not being sufficiently careful to observe the bar, was borne
away, and, in the midst of cries and shrieks, drowned, in the
sight of bs friends. His implorings for help were most
touching, but it was. impossible to reach him.
Their next arrival was at Fort Boise, on the right bank of
the Snake, midway between Fort Hall and Fort Wallawalla,
a place of little trade and importance, except as a stoppbg
point between the two forts. There they reerossed the river
and passed on through Burnt River Valley, the most broken
tract they had heretofore traversed, though destbed to be
come exceedingly valuable for its grazing qualities. They
next reached the Grand Round, a fertile district, and valua
ble for herdsmen, in the midst of the Blue mountabs, thirty
miles in length and perhaps half that in breadth. It is the
opinion of some, that the valley was formed by a convulsion
of nature, and was once a lake, as there are some portions
of it yet a marsh, and there is a beautiful, boiling, circular
spring, covering about an acre of ground, the temperature
of which is very agreeable, except in portions, where it is

166 TEN YEARS IN 0REG0S.
too hot for- the flesh to bear. They found several kinds of
clover and grain growing in great luxuriance.
When the party emerged from this beautiful valley, they
found themselves in a heavily timbered, mountainous coun
try, where they were obliged to spend a night with scarcely
a particle of grass for their wearied and hungry animals.
Two days later brought them to the foot of the Bbe moun
tains, and glad were they to be b a country more comforta
ble for man and beast.
Here Dr. White called at an Indian wigwam, for a guide
to conduct him to Dr. Whitman's residence, and learned, to
his great joy and surprise, that it was only fifteen miles dis
tant ; and he reached it after a pleasant morning's ride, over
a noble and well grassed prairie, dotted with herds of wild
horses and cattle.
Though Dr. Whitman had been here but a few years, he
was surrounded with comforts and conveniences, and his
house and furniture reminded his visitor of the comfortable
houses of the United States. The visit was very agreeable
to both, as he had much to tell Dr. White of Oregon affairs,
and the Dr. him of his two years' residence in the states.
Dr. White visited Wallawalla after a two days' stay, and
was bvited to take boat with Mr. McDonald, for Fort Van
couver ; and, in two days time, was at the station of Messrs.
Perkins and Daniel Lee, at the Dalles. These gentlemen
eagerly devoured the letters brought them from the states,
and having been several years absent from their native homes,
had numberless enqbries to make concerning those homes.
But Mr. McDonald bebg in haste, the visit was cut short,
and they were agab afloat on the Columbia.
From Dr. Whitman's to this point, it had been an entire
prairie district, with no considerable clump of trees, much

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. lO^
of it a light, sandy soil, and, aside from grass, very sterile.
But they now found themselves b a well wooded country,
which continued all the way to Fort Vancouver.
As a nearer and better route has been discovered through
the Cascade mountains, I will say little more of that by
the Columbia, especially as so much has already been said
and written by travellers.
After something more than half a day's sail, they arrived at
the Cascades, where, according to an Indian tradition, the
mountains had extended across the river, its current runnbg
under them, till, from some cause, perhaps convulsion, they
had fallen bto its depths, and, forming a cataract, and then
a succession of rapids, from which it received its name.
Whether or not the legend be true, it is b the midst of the
Cascade mountains ; and there are strong indications of their
having rent asunder at no remote period. The waters, also,
appear to have been dammed, from the fact that there are great
numbers of stumps, or trunks of trees — and many of them
from twenty to thirty feet high — standing in the river, imme
diately at, and for many miles above, and no where below,
the fall, perfectly petrified.
Here, as was mentioned b the account of Mrs. White's
and Mr. Leslie's disaster, a long portage has to be made';
and Dr. White now passed the spot for the first time. Near
this is the isolated rock, so far celebrated, rising from the
river to the height of two hundred and seventy feet, and.five
hundred feet in circumference at its base, and, at a distance,
b a form resembling a sugar loaf. The river beyond tbs,
is remarkable for its high, rocky bluffs, and -occasionally
small rivulets shooting over them into the river, with a fall
of from five hundred to a thousand feet. It is the projection
of one of these points, which forms, what the Canadian voya-

168 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
geurs have named Cape Horn, as, in stormy weather, it is
very dangerous to pass. Here the Cascade mountains melt
away, and a few miles farther down are the' Fort Vancouver
mills, six miles only fiom this great establishment.
After a short visit with his friends, Gov. McLaughlb and
Mr. Douglas, the doctor hastened on to the Willamette val-
ley. On reaching the falls, where a little village — now Or
egon city — had sprung up during his absence, the news of
his arrival spread like wildfire, and he was met and welcomed
by his numerous, friends b a manner very grateful and
touching to his feelings. He found that his absence had
not deprived him of the friendship of those he so much pri
sed. The excitement, also, rose in part from his appobt-
ment, considering it a prelude to farther movements b their
behalf on the part of government. A meeting was imme
diately convened, for an expression of sentiment relative to
his appointment, and the report of its doings was as follows :
Champoeg, June 23, 1842.
At a meetbg of the citizens of Willamette valley, con
vened at the instance of Dr. Elijah White, agent of Indian
affairs, for the purpose of communicatbg certab informa
tion from the government of the United States, relative to
this country, the following busbess was transacted :
The object of the meeting being stated by Dr. White, the
convention proceeded to organize by choosbg their officers.
On motion, Dr. J. L. Babcock was unabmously elected
chairman. On motion, G. W. La Breeton, was unabmously elected
secretary. Dr. White then, by request, presented the credentials of
bs appointment to the office of sub-agent of Indian affairs,

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 169
of the territory west of the Rocky Mountains, and was most
cheerfully received by the assembly.
The doctor addressed the meetbg at some length, givbg
such information as he felt himself authorized to give, con-
cernbg the interest taken by the people of the United States,
b the welfare of this colony, and concernbg the intentions
of the government in relation to this risbg country, where
upon it was, on motion,
Resolved, That a committee of seven be appointed to draft
resolutions, expressive of the feelings of this community,
with regard to the intentions of government, as communi
cated by Dr. E. White.
Mr. T. J. Hubbard, Mr. G. W. La Breeton, Mr. R. Short-
ess, Mr. G. Hines, Mr. J. O'Neal, Mr. G. Abernethy, and
Mr. J. S. Parish, were elected that committee.
The committee retired, and after a short absence, reported
the following resolutions :
Resolved, That we, the citizens of Willamette valley, are
exceedbgly happy in the consideration, that the government
Of the United States have mabfested their intentions through
their agent, Dr. E. White, of extending their jurisdiction and
protection over this country.
Resolved, That in view of the claims which the aborigi
nes of this country have upon the sympathies of the white
man, we are gratified at the appointment of an agent by the
Ubted States government, to regulate and guard their in
terests. Resolved, That we highly approve of the appointment of
Dr. E. White, to the above office, and that we will cordially
co-operate with him, in carrying out 'the measures of gov
ernment in reference to this country.
Resolved, That we feel grateful to the United States gov-

170 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
ernment for their btended liberality towards the settlers of
this country, and for their btention to support education and
literature among us.
Resolved, That it will give us the highest pleasure to be
brought as soon as it may be practicable, under the jurisdic
tion of our mother country.
Signed by the committee, T. J. Hubbard, G. W. La Bree-
ton, R. Shortess, J. O'Neal, G. Hines, J. L. Parish.
On motion, it was
Resolved, That the report of the committee be adopted.
On motion,
Resolved unanimously, That the doings of this meetbg,
be transmitted to the government of the United States, by
Dr. E. White, in order that our views and wishes in relation
to this country, may be known.
A. committee was appointed to make arrangements for the
reception of the large reinforcement, with whose arrival the
inhabitants were much pleased. The new comers them
selves Were delighted with the beauty of the " Genesee-like
Willamette valley," and the warm hearted hospitality of its
inhabitants. With the latter subsequent expeditions were not
so well pleased. This party, constituted of only one hun
dred and twelve persons, and, being the first from the states,
great interest was excited ; but they afterwards poured in
b such numbers, that it was difficult to entertab them, say
ing nothing of the novelty being lost. There were with this
party a large number of mechanics and laborers ; and through
their means the people of the valley were enabled to extend
their plantations, and enlarge their buildings ; and every
thing soon began to wear an aspect of thrift and enterprise.
The people of the colony began seriously to entertain the

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 171
project of establishbg a provisional form of government ; and
meetbg after meeting was held for this purpose, which, from
their bebg so many aspirants to the most important offices,
proved abortive.' However, the next June, a committee,
consisting of Robert More, Robert Newell, and Robert Short-
ess, were appointed to draft a code of organic laws, to be
submitted to a convention, subsequently held for the consid
eration, acceptance, or rejection of the same by the people.
This proved, like the others, a disturbed session ; but, that
the feelings of as many as possible might be accommoda
ted, they elected atribunate, bstead of placing a sbgle man
at the head of the executive.
Late in the fall of that year, 1844, great disturbances
arose among the Indians of Wallawalla and Clearwater, and
soUcitations from the missionaries called for the bterference
of the sub-agent. Tbs led to the expedition which is noti
ced in Dr. Wbte's first annual report to the secretary of war,
which is here inserted, together with the other tbee, sent in
during his stay there. They are of much bterest, bdeed,
of much more than I should be able to create. They con
tain a fbl relation of the transactions of the three folio wbg
years.

172 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

CHAPTER XIX.
General excitement — State of the colony— Improper conduct of the up
per country Indians — Character of the Wallawallas, Keyuses, and
Nez Perces — Their disposition towards the missionaries — Mistaken
course of the missionaries — Their treatment of a clergyman — Dan
gerous situation of Dr. Whitman among them — His kindness — Indi
an's treatment of Mrs. W. — Burning of the mission mills — 111 treat
ment of Mr. Spalding and lady — Expedition of the Sub-Agent —
Hardships — Reach Waiilatpu — Appointment with the chiefs — Mr.
Spalding's station — Keception — The Agent's treatment of the In
dians — Public interview — Speeches of McKinley, Rogers, and Mc
Kay — Five Crows, Bloody Chief, and others — The Doctor's statement
and advice— Appointment of a high chief — Feasting — Last meeting
— Close — Results of Dr. White's visit to the Nez Perces — Laws of
the Nez Perces — Return to Waiilatpu — Keyuse tribe — Feathercap —
Touiti's accusation against the whites — Appointment for another
meeting — Reach Wascopum — Success — Doings of the missionaries
—Catholic missions — Schools — Country upon the Columbia and its
tributaries, and towards California — Limestone, &c. — Settlements a'
the Willamette — Falatine Plains — Clatsop Plains, &c. — Comparison
between a certain portion of Oregon, and the New England States
— Terrible disaster — Hard characters — Volcano  Report of Mr.
Spalding — Mr. Jason Lee's Report. Oregon, April 1, 1843.
Sir : On my arrival, I had the honor and happbess of
addressing you a brief commumcation, givbg information of
my safe arrival, and that of our numerous party, to these
distant shores.
At that time it was confidently expected a more direct.
certain and expeditious method would be presented to ad-

TEN. YEARS IN OREGON. 173
dress, you in a few weeks ; but that faffing, none has offered
till now.
I thbk I mentioned the kind and hospitable manner we
were received and entertained on the way by the gentlemen
of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the cordial and most
handsome reception I met with at Fort Vancouver, from
Governor McLaughhn, and his worthy associate cbef factor,
James Douglass, Esq. ; my appointment giving pleasure, ra
ther than pain — a satisfactory assurance that these worthy
gentlemen intend eventually to settle in this country, and
prefer American to English jurisdiction.
On my arrival in the colony, sixty miles south of Vancou
ver, bebg b advance of the party, and coming unexpectedly
to the citizens, bearing the btelligence of the arrival of so.
large a reinforcement, and giving assurance of the good in
tentions of our government, the excitement was general, and
two days after we had the largest and happiest public meet
bg ever convened in this infant colony.
I found the colony b peace and health, and rapidly b-
creasbg b numbers, havbg more than doubled in population
during the last two years . English, French, and half breeds,
seem, equally with our own people, attached to the Ameri
can cause ; hence the bill of Mr. Linn, proffering a section
of land to every white man of the territory, has the double
advantage of being popular and useful, increasing such at
tachment, and mabfeslly acting as a strong bcentive to all,
of whatever nation or party, to settle b this country.
My arrival was b good time, and probably saved much
evil. I had but a short season of rest after so long, tedious,
and toilsome a journey, before bformation reached me of
the very improper conduct of the upper country Indians to
wards the missionaries sent by the American board of com-

174 TEN YEARS IN OREGON,
missioners, accompanied with a passport, and a desire for
my interposition in their behalf at once.
I allude to the oby three tribes from which much is to
be hoped, or any thbg to be feared, in this part of Oregon.
These are the Wallawallas, Keyuse, and Nez Perces, inhab
iting a district of country on the Columbia and its tributaries,
commencing two hundred and forty miles from its mouth,
and stretching to four hundred and eighty into the interior.
The Wallawallas, most contiguous to the colony, number some
three thousand, including the entire population. They are
in general poor, indolent, and sordid, but avaricious ; and
what few have property, in horse; and herds, are proud,
haughty, and insolent. The Keyuse, next easterly, are les6
numerous, but more formidable, being brave, active, tempes
tuous, and warlike. Their country is well watered, gently
undulating, extremely healthy, and admirably adapted to
grazing, as Dr. Marcus Whitman may have informed you, !
who resides in their midst. They are comparatively rich in
herds, independent b manner, and not unfrequently boister
ous, saucy, and troublesome, in language and behavior.
The Nez Perces, still further in the interior, number some
thing less than three thousand ; they inhabit a beautiful
grazing district, not surpassed by any I have seen for ver
dure, water privileges, climate or health. This tribe form,
to some extent, an honorable exception to the general Indian
character, being more noble, industrious, sensible, and better
disposed towards the whites, and their improvements in the
arts and sciences; and, though as brave as Caesar, the
whites have nothing to dread at their hands, in case of their
dealing out to them what they conceive to be right and
equitable. Of late, these three tribes have become strongly
umted by reason of much intermarriage. For the last twenty

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 175
years they have been generally well disposed towards the
whites; but at the time Captain Bonneville visited this dis
trict of country, he dealt more profusely :n presents, and
paid a higher price for furs, than Mr. Pambro, one of the
traders of the Hudson's Bay Company, established at Wal
lawalla, who had long dealt with them, and was previously
a general favorite. On Mr. Bonneville's leavbg, the chiefs
assembled at the fort, and insisted on a change of the tariff
in their favor. Pambro refusing, they seized him, stamped
violently upon his breast, beat him severely, and retained
him prisoner, in rather unenviable circumstances, till they
gamed, to a considerable extent, their object. Since that
time they have been more consequential in feeling, and
shown less deference and respect to the whites. On the ar
rival of missionaries among them, they have never failed to
make, at first, a most favorable impression, which has,, b
most instances, unfortunately, led to too near an approach to
familiarity, operating alike prejudicial to both parties. The
Rev. Messrs. Lee and Parker, who made each but a short
stay among them, left with like favorable impressions. Then-
successors, Spalding, Whitman, Gray, and ladies, with oth
ers who remained among them, were at last driven to the
conclusion that Indians as much resembled each other in
character as in complexion. These worthy people, not well
versed b Indian character, and anxious to accomplish a great
deal in a short time, resorted to various expedients to induce
them to leave off their wandering, migratory habits, and set
tle down contiguous to them in herdbg and agricultural
pursbts, so as to be able to send their numerous and healthy
children to school. In these efforts they were zealous and
persevering, holding out various inducements as so many
stimulants to action, most of which would have operated

176 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
well b civilized life, but generally failing with these Indians ',
and whatever was promised conditionally, whether the con
dition was met or otherwise, there was no reprieve — the
promised articles must come, and sometimes under' circum
stances sufficiently trying, had these missionaries been less
devoted, to have driven them from their post forever.
The Indians, havbg gained one and another victory, be
came more and more insolent, till at last, some time previ
ously to my arrival, they were, not only obtrusive and ex
ceedingly annoybg about and in the missionaries' housesj but
seized one of the clergymen in his own house — without a
shadow of provocation, further than that of treating a better
neighboring chief with more respect than they — and insult
ed him most shamefully ; there being no other wbte person
within fifty miles, save bs sick and delicate lady. Soon after
they commenced on Dr. Whitman ; pulled his ears and hair,
and threw off his hat three times in the mud at his feet. A
short time after, the chiefs assembled, broke bto the house,
violently assailed his person with war clubs, and with an axe
broke down the door leadbg to his own private apartment.
It is generally thought, and possibly with truth, that, on
this occasion, Dr. W. would have been killed, had not a party
of white men arrived just at tbs moment.* Never was such
an outrage or bsult more undeservbg. He had built, for
the express purpose of Indian accommodation, a house of
the same materials, and fibshed b like manner with his own,
of respectable size, and jobed to his, and at all times, night
and day, accessible. In addition to this, they were admitted
to every room of his house but one. This bebg closed had
* It is by the same people that this worthy gentleman has so lately
been murdered.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 177
like to have cost him his life. He had hardly left for the states
last fall, when, shocking to relate^ at the hour of midnight,
a large Indian chief managed to get into the house came
to the door of Mrs. Whitman's bedchamber, and had suc
ceeded in getting it partly open before she reached it. A
white man, sleeping in an adjoining apartment, saved her
from violence and rub. The villain escaped. There was
but one thing wrong in this matter on the part of Dr. W. •
and that was a great error — leaving his excellent lady thus un
protected in the midst of savages. A few days after this
they burned down the mission mill on his premises, with all
its appendages and considerable grain, damaging them not
less than twelve or fifteen hundred dollars. About the same
time Mrs. Spaulding was grossly insulted in her own house,
and ordered out of it, in the absence of her husband. In
formation reached him of an Indian having stolen his horse
near the same time, he hastened to the spot to secure the
animal ; the rougue had crossed the river ; but, immediately
returning, he presented his loaded gun, cocked, at the breast.
of Mr. Spalding, abused and menaced as far as possible
without shooting him.
In addition to this, some of our own party were robbed
openly of considerable property, and some twelve horses
were stolen by night. All this information, coming near the
same time, was .peculiarly embarrassing, especially as my in
structions would not allow me to exceed, for office, bterpreter,
and every other purpose, one thousand two hundred and fifty
dollars per annum. On the other hand, their passport signed by
the secretary of war made it my imperative duty to protect
them in their persons at least from outrage. I did not long
hesitate, but called on Thomas McKay, long bthe employ
ment of the Hudson's Bay Company as explorer and leader
12

178 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
of parties, who, from his frank, generous disposition, to
gether with his universal success in Indian warfare, has ob-
tabed an extensive influence over the aborigines of this
country, and placing the facts before him, he at once con
sented to accompany me to this scene of discord and conten
tion. We took but six men with us, armed in the best man
ner, a sufficient number to command respect and secure the
object of our undertaking — McKay assuring me, from his
familiar acquaintance with these Indians, and their thorough
knowledge of the use of arms, that if hostile btentions were
entertabed, it would require a larger party than we could
raise in this country to subdue them. Obtaining Cornelius
Rogers and Batteus Dorion,* as interpreters, we set out on the
* Batteus Dorion was the son of Mr. Hum's interpreter, Pierre Dori
on, who, with his heroic spouse, is so often mentioned In Irving'a Asto
ria. " As McKenzie, Clark, and Stuart were proceeding up the Co
lumbia, near the mouth of the Wallawalla river, several Indian canoes
put off from the shore to overtake them, and a voice called upon them
in French to stop. They accordingly put to shore, and were joined by
those in the canoes. To their surprise, they recognized in the person
who had hailed them, the Indian wife of Pierre Dorion, accompanied
by her two children. She had a story to tell ; involving the fate of sev
eral of our unfortunate adventurers. Mr. John Reed, the Hibernian,
it will be remembered, had been detached during the summer to Snake
River. Thi3 party consisted of four Canadians, together with two
hunters, Pierre Dorion and Pierre Delaunayj Dorion, as usual, being
accompanied by his wife and childien. The objects of this expedition
were two-fold, to trap beaver, and to search for the three hunters, Rob
inson, Hoback and Rezner. In the course of the autumn, Reed lost
one man, by death ; another one, who was of a sullen, perverse dispo
sition, left in a moody fit, and was never heard of afterwards. The
number of his party was not, however, reduced by these losses, as the
three hunters, Robinson, Hoback and Rezner had joined it. Reed now
built a house on Snake river, for their winter quarters ; which being

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 179
15th of November — as McKay justly denominated it 
our voyage of misery, having a journey, by water and land,
of not less than nine hundred and fifty miles, principally over
open plains, covered with snow, and several times under the
completed, the party set about trapping. Rezner, Le Clerc, and Pierre
Dorion, went about five days' journey from the wintering house, to a
part of the country well stocked with beaver. Here they put up a hut
and proceeded to trap with great success. While the men were out
hunting, Pierre Dorion's wife remained at home to dress the skins and
prepare the meals. She was thus employed one evening, about the be
ginning of January, cooking the supper of the hunters, when she heard
footsteps, and Le Clerc staggered, pale and bleeding, into the hut. He
informed her that a party of savages had surprised them, while at their
traps, and killed Rezner and her husband. He had barely strength left
to give this information, when he sank upon the ground. The poor
woman saw that the only chance for life was instant flight, but, in this
exigency, showed that presence of mind, and force of character for
which she had frequently been noted. With great difficulty, she caught
two of the horses belonging to the party ; when collecting her clothes,
and a small quantity of beaver meat and dried salmon, she packed
them upon one of the horses, and helped the wounded man to mount
upon it. On the other horse she mounted with her two children, and
hurried away from this dangerous neighborhood, directing her flight for
Mr. Reed's establishment. On the third day she descried a number of
Indians on horseback, proceeding in an easterly direction. She imme
diately dismounted with her children, and helped Le Clerc likewise to
dismount, and all concealed themselves. Fortunately they escaped the
sharp eyes of the savages, but had to proceed with the utmost caution.
That night, they slept without fire or water ; she managed to keep her
children warm in her arms ; but before morning, poor Le Clerc died.
With the dawn of day, the resolute woman resumed her course, and on
the fouth day, reached the house of Mr. Reed. It was deserted, and
all around were marks of blood and signs of a furious massacre. Not
doubting that Mr. Reed and his party had all fallen victims, she turned
with fresh horror from the spot. For two days she continued hurrying
forward, ready to sink for want of food, but more solicitous about her

180 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
necessity of spending the night without wood or fire, other
than what was made by a small growth of wild sage, hardly
sufficient to boil the tea kettle. The gentlemen, as we called
at Fort Vancouver, did every thing in their power to make
the journey comfortable, but evidently felt anxious concern-
children than herself. At length she reached a range of the Rocky
Mountains, near the upper part of the Wallawalla river. Here she
ch 'se a wild, lonely ravine, as her place of winter refuge. She had
fortunately a buffalo robe and three deer skins ; of those, and pine bark
and cedar branches, she constructed a lude wigwam, which she pitched
beside a mountain spring. Having no other food, she killed two hor
ses, and smoked their flesh. The skins aided to cover her hut. Here
she dragged out the winter, with no other company than her two chil
dren. Towards the middle of March, her provisions were nearly ex
hausted. She therefore picked up the remainder, slung it on her back,
and with her helpless little ones, set out again on her wanderings
Crossing the ridge of mountains, she descended to the banks of the
Wallawalla, and kept along them until she arrived where that river
throws itself into the Columbia. She was hospitably received and en
tertained by the Waliuwalla's, and had been nearly two weeks among
them when the two canoes passed. On being interrogated, she could
assign no reason for this murderous attack of the savages ; it appeared
50 be perfectly wanton and unprovoked. Some of the Astbrians sup
posed it an act of butchery by a roving band of Blackfeet, others, how
ever, and with greater probability of correctness, have ascribed it to the
tribe of Piercednosed Indians, in revenge for the death of a comrade
¦Ranged by order of Mr. Clarke. If so, it shows that these sudden and
apparently wanton outbreakings of sanguinary violence on the part of
the savages,have often some previous, though perhaps remote provoca
tion." — Irving's Astoria.
Dr. White saw this woman living comfortably in the Willamette
valley, with a Canadian Frenchman, to whom she had long been mar
ried. She presented him several pairs of moccasins, very neatly execu
ted, after the most approved fashion of her tribe. He Was Very much
"impressed with1 her noble, comtnandingbearintg.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 181
ing our safety. We reached the Dalles, some two hundred
and twenty miles from the Pacific, on the 24th having been
deatabed by wind, spent several days with the Methodist
mission families, who welcomed us joyfully, and made our
stay agreeable and refreshing. Mrs. Dr. Whitman was here,
having found it improper and unsafe to remain where she
had been so lately grossly bsulted. Her noble and intellec
tual mind and spirit were much depressed, and her health
suffering ; but still entertaining for the people or Indians of
her charge the feelings of a mother towards ungrateful chil
dren ; our visit encouraged her. We procured horses and
travelled by land to Wallawalla, one hundred and forty miles
above, reaching the Hudson's Bay establishment on the 30th.
Mr. McKbley, the gentleman in charge, to whom the mis
sionaries are indebted for many kind offices b this isolated
portion of the earth, resolved to make it a common cause,
and stand or fall with us. We reached Waiilatpu, the sta
tion of Dr. Whitman, the day following, and were shocked
and pained at beholding the sad work of savage destruction
upon this hitherto neat and commodious little establishment.
The Indians in the vicinity were few and shy. I thought
best to treat them with reserve, but made an appointment
to meet the chiefs and tribe on my return. Left the day
following for the station of Mr. Spauldbg among the Nez-
percs, some one hundred and twenty or one hundred and
thirty miles from Waiilaptu ; reached it on the 3rd of De
cember, after a rather pleasant journey over a most verdent
and delightful grazing district, well watered, but badly tim
bered. Having sent a private despatch b advanee they had
conveyed the intelligence to the Indians, many of whom
were collected. The chiefs met us with civility, gravity and

182 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
dignified reserve, but the missionaries with joyful counte
nances and glad hearts.
Seldom was a visit of an Indian agent more desired, nor
could one be more necessary and proper. As they were col
lecting, we had no meeting for eight-and-forty hours ; in the
mean time, through my able interpreter and McKay, I man
aged to secure confidence and prepare the way to a good un-
destanding ; visited and prescribed for their sick, made a
short call at each of their chief's lodges, spent a season in
school, hearing them read, spell, and sing ; at the same time
examining their printing and writing, and can hardly avoid
here saying I was happily surprised and greatly interested
at seebg such numbers so far advanced and so eagerly pur-
subg after knowledge. The next day I visited their little
plantations, rude to be sure, but successfully carried on, so
far as raising the necessaries of life were concerned ; and it
was most gratifying to witness their fondness and care for
their little herds, pigs, poultry, etc. The hour arriving for
the public interview, I was ushered into the presence of the
assembled chiefs, to the number of twenty-two, with some
lesser dignitaries, and a large number of the common peo
ple. The gravity, fixed attention, and decorum, of these
sons of the forest, was calculated to make for them a most
favorable impression. I stated explicitly, but briefly as pos
sible, the design of our great chief in sending me to this
country, and the present object of my visit; assured them
of the kind intentions of our government, and the sad
consequences that would ensue to any white man, from this
time, who should invade their rights, by stealing, murder,
selling them damaged for good articles, or alcohol, of which
they are not fond. Without threatening, I gave them to un
derstand how highly Mr. and Mrs. Spalding were prized by

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 183
the numerous whites, and with what pleasure the great chief
gave them a passport to encourage them to come here to teach
them what they were now so diligently employed in obtain
ing, b order that they and their children might become good,
wise and happy. After me, Mr. McKinley, the genteman
b charge of the Hudson's Bay establishment at Wallawalla,
spoke concisely, but very properly ; alluded"to bs residence
of some years, and of the good understanding that had gen
erally existed between them, and of the happiness that he
felt that one of his brothers had come to stand and judge
impartially between him, them, and whites and Indians in
general ; declared openly and frankly, that Boston, King
George, and French, were all of one heart in this matter, as
they, the Keyuse and Wallawallas should be ; flattered them
delicately in view of their — to him — unexpected advance
ment in the arts and sciences, and resumed his seat, having
made a most favorable impression. Next followed Mr. Ro
gers, the interpreter, who, years before, had been employed
successfully as linguist in this section of the country by the
American board of commissioners, and was ever a general
favorite with the people.
He adverted sensibly and touchingly to past difficulties
between whites and Indians east of the mountains, and the
sad consequences to every tribe who had resisted honorable
measures proposed by the more numerous whites ; and hav
ing, as he hoped, secured their confidence in my favor, ex
horted them feelingly to adopt such measures as should be
thought proper for their benefit.
Next, and lastly, arose Mr. McKay, and remarked with a
manner peculiar to himself, and evidently with some emo
tion : I appear among you as one arisen from the long sleep
of death. You know of the violent death of my father on

184 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
board the ship Tonquin, who was one of the partners of the
Astor company; I was but a youth ; since which time, till
the last five years, I have been a wanderer through these
wilds; none of you, or any Indians of this country, having
travelled so constantly or extensively as I have, and yet I
saw you or your fathers once or more annually. I have min
gled with you in bloody wars and profound peace ; I have
stood in your midst, surrounded by plenty, and suffered with
you in seasons of scarcity ; we have had our days of wild
and joyous sports, and nights of watching and deep con
cern, till I vanished from among men, left the Hudson's Bay
company, silently retired to my plantation, and there con
fined myself. There I was, still, silent, and as one dead ;
the voice of my brother, at last, aroused me ; I spoke and
looked ; I mounted my horse — am here. I am glad it is so.
I come at the call of the great chief, the chief of all the whites
in the country, as well as the Indians, the son of the mighty
chief whose children are more numerous than the stars b
the heavens or the leaves of the forest. Will you hear, and
be advised ? You will. Your wonderful improvements in
the arts and sciences prove you are not fools. Surely you
will hear ; but if disposed to close your ears and stop them.,
they will be torn open wide, and you will be made to hear.
This speech from Mr. McKay, whose mother is a native,
though the wife of Gov. McLaughlin, had a singularly happy
influence, and opened the way for expressions on the other
side, from which there had not hitherto been a sentence ut
tered. First arose Five-Crows, a wealthy chief of forty-
five, neatly attired in English costume. He stepped gravely
but modestly forward to the table, remarking : It does not
become me to speak first ; I am but a youth, as yet, when
compared to many of these my fathers ; but my feelings

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 185
urge me to arise and say what I am about to utter in a very
few words. I am glad the chief has come ; I have listened
to what has been said ; have great hopes that brighter days
are before us, because I see all the whites are united in this
matter ; we have much wanted some thing ; hardly knew
what ; been gropbg and feelbg for it in confusion and dark
ness. Here it is. Do we see it, and shall we accept ?
Soon the Bloody Chief arose — not less than ninety years
old — -and said : I speak to-day, perhaps to-morrow I die. I
am the oldest chief of the tribe ; was the high chief when
your great brothers, Lewis and Clarke, visited this coun
try ; they visited me, and honored me with their friendship
and counsel. I showed them my numerous wounds received
in bloody battle with the Snakes ; they told me it was not
good, it was better to be at peace ; gave me a flag of truce ;
I held it up high ; we met and talked, but never fought
again. Clarke pointed to this day, to you, and this occasion;
we have long waited in expectation ; sent three of our sons
to Red river school to prepare for it ; two of them sleep with
their fathers ; the other is here, and can be ears, mouth, and
pen for us. I can say no more ; I am qbckly tired ; my
voice and limbs tremble. I am glad I live to see you and
this day, but I shall soon be still and quiet in death.
The speech was affecting. Six more spoke, and the meet
bg adjourned three hours. Met at the hour appointed. All
the chiefs and principal men being present, stated delicately
the embarrassed relation existing between whites and Indi
ans in this upper country, by reason of a want of proper or
ganization, or the chief's authority not being properly re
garded; alluded to some cases of improprieties of young
men, not sanctioned by the chiefs and old men ; and where
the chiefs had been b the wrong, hoped it had principally

186 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
arisen from imperfectly understanding each other's language
or some other excusable cause, especially so far as they were
concerned. Advised them, as they were now to some ex
tent prepared, to choose one high chief of the tribe, and
acknowledge him as such by universal consent ; all the other
subordinate chiefs being of equal power, and so many helps
to carry out all his lawful requirements, which they were at
once to have in writing, in their own language, to regulate
their intercourse with whites, and in most cases with them
selves. I advised that each chief have five men as a body
guard, to execute all their lawful commands. They desired
to hear the laws. I proposed them clause by clause, leav
ing them as free to reject as to accept. They were greatly
pleased with all proposed, but wished a heavier penalty to
some, and suggested the dog law, which was annexed. We
then left them to choose the high chief, assuring them if they
did this unanimously by the following day at ten, we would
all dine together with the chief on a fat ox at three, himself
and myself at the head of the tabic ; this pleased them well,
and they set about it in good cheer and high hopes ; but
this was a new and delicate task, and they soon saw and felt
it ; however, all agreed that I must make the selection, and
so reported two hours after we left the council. Assuring
them this would not answer ; that they must select their own
chief, they seemed somewhat puzzled, and wished to know
if it would be proper to counsel with Messrs. McKay and Ro
gers. On telling them that it was not improper, they felt a
little relieved, and worked poor Rogers and McKay severely
for many hours ; but altogother at length figured it out, and
in great good humor, so reported at ten, appointing Ellis
high chief. He is the One alluded to by the Bloody Chief,
a sensible man of thirty-two, reading, speaking, and writing

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 187
the English language tolerably well ; has a fine small planta
tion, a few sheep, some neat stock, and no less than eleven
hundred head of horses. Then came on the feasting ; our
ox was fat, and cooked and served up in a manner reminding
one of the days of yore ; we ate beef, corn, and peas to our
fill, and in good cheer took the pipe, when Rev. Mr. Spal
ding, Messrs. McKinley, Rogers, and McKay, wished a song
from our boatmen ; it was no sooner given than returned by
the Indians, and repeated agab, agab, and again, b high
cheer. I thought it a good time, and required all having
any claim to bring, or grievances to allege, against Mr. Spal
ding, to meet me and the high chief at evening in the coun
cil room, and requested Mr. Spalding to do the same
on the part of the Indians. We met at six, and ended
at eleven, having accomplished, in the happiest manner,
much anxious business. Bebg too well fed to be irritable,
or disposed to quarrel, both parties were frank and open,
seeming anxious only to learn our opinion upon plain undis
guised matters of fact, many of the difficulties having arisen
from an honest difference of sentiment respecting certain
measures. Ellis, the cbef, really conducted himself throughout in a
manner creditable to his head and heart, was qbte as cor
rect in his conclusions and firm in his decisions as could have
been expected. The next day we had our last meeting,
and one full of interest, in which they proposed to me many
grave and proper questions ; and, as it was manifestly de
sired, I advised in many matters, especially in reference to
begging or even receiving presents, without, in some way,
returning an equivalent ; pointed out in strong language who
beggars are among the whites, and how regarded ; and com
mended them for not once troubling me, during my stay,

188 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
with this disgusting practice; and as a token of respect,
now, at the close of our long and happy meeting, they would
please accept, in the name of my great chief, a present of
fifty garden hoes, not for those in authority, or those that
had no need of them, but for the chiefs and Mr. Spalding
to distribute among their industrious poor. I likewise, as
they were very needy, proposed and ordered them some me
dicines, to be destributed as they should from time to time
be required. This being done, I exhorted them to be in
obedience to their chiefs, highly approving the choice they
had made, assuring them, as he and the other chiefs were
responsible to me for their good behavior, I should feel it
my duty to see them sustained b all lawful measures to
promote peace and order. I then turned, and with good
effect desired all the chiefs to look upon the congregation as
their own children, and then pointed to Mr. Spalding and
lady, and told the ehiefs, and all present, to look upon them
as their father and mother, and treat them in all respects as
such ; and should they happen to differ in sentiment respect
ing any matter during my absence, be cautious not to differ
in feeling, but leave it till I should again return, when the
chief and myself would rectify it. Thus closed this mutually
happy and interesting meeting, and, mounting our horses for
home, Mr. Spalding and the chiefs accompanied me for some
four or five miles, when we took leave of them in the pleas-
antest manner, not a single circumstance having occurred to
mar our peace or shake each other's confidence.
I shall here introduce a note, previously prepared, giving
some further information respecting this tribe, and append
a copy of their laws. The Nez Perces -have one gover
nor or principal chief, twelve subordinate chiefs of equal
power, being the heads of the different villages or clans, with

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 189
their five officers to execute all their lawful orders, which
law they have printed b their own language, and read un-
derstandingly. The chiefs are held responsible to the whites
for the good behavior of the tribe. They are a happy and
orderly people, forming an honorable exception to the gene
ral Indian character, being more industrious, cleanly, sensi
ble, dignified, and virtuous.
This organization was effected last fall, and operates well,
and with them, it is to be hoped, will succeed. A few days
sbce Governor McLaughlin favored me with a note address
ed to him from the Rev. H. II. Spalding, missionary to this
tribe, stating as follows :
"The Indians in this vicinity are remarkably quiet this
winter, and are bghly pleased with the laws recommended
by Dr. White, which were unanimously adopted by the
chiefs and people in council assembled; The visit of Dr.
White and assistants to this upper country will evidently
prove an incalculable blessing to this people. The school
now numbers two hundred and twenty-four in daily attend
ance, embracing most of the chiefs and principal men of the
nation." LAWS OF THE NES PERCES.
Art. 1. Whoever wilfully takes life shall be hung.
Art. 2. Whoever burns a dwelling house shall be hung.
Art. 3. Whoever burns an outbuilding shall be impris
oned six months, receive fifty lashes, and pay all damages.
Art. 5. If any one enter a dwelling, without permission
of the occupant, the chiefs shall punish him as they thbk
proper. Art. 6. H any one steal he shall pay back two fold ;
and if it be the value of a beaver skin or less, he shall receive

190 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
twenty-five lashes ; and if the value is over a beaver skin
he shall pay back two-fold, and receive fifty lashes.
Art. 7. If any one take a horse, and ride it, without
permission, or take any article, and use it, without liberty,
he shall pay for the use of it, and receive from twenty to
fifty lashes, as the chief shall direct.
Art. 8. If any one enter a field, and injure the crops,
or throw down the fence, so that cattle or horses go in and
do damage, he shall pay all damages, and receive twenty-
five lashes for every offence.
Art. 9. Those only may keep dogs who travel or live
among the game ; if a dog kill a kmb, calf, or any domestic
animal, the owner shall pay the damage, and kill the dog.
Art. 10. If an Indian raise a gun or other weapon
against a white man, it shall be reported to the chiefs, and
they shall punish him. If a white person do the same to an
Indian, it shall be reported, to Dr. White, and he shall re
dress it.
Art. 11. If an Indian break these laws, he shall be pun
ished by his chiefs ; if a white man break them, he shall be
reported to the agent, and be punished at his instance.
After a severe journey of some four days, through the
inclemency of the weather, we reached Waiilaptu, Dr.
Whitman's station, where we had many most unpleasant
matters to settle with the Keyuse tribe — such as personal
abuse to Dr. Whitman and lady, burnbg the mill, &c. &c.
Several, but not all of the chiefs, were present. Learnbg
what the Nez Perces had done, gave them great concern
and anxiety. Touiti, the high chief, and Feathercap, were
there, with some few more dignitaries, but manifestly uneasy.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 191
being shy and cautious. I thought best, under the circum
stances, to be quiet, distant, and reserved, and let them com
mence the conversation with my worthy and faithful friends,
Rogers and McKay — both conducting with characteristic
firmness and candor. They had not proceeded far before
Feathercap, so far as we know, for the first time in life, com
menced weeping, and wished to see me ; said his heart was
sick, and he could not live long as he now felt. Touiti, who
was no way implicated personally in the difficulties, and u.
correct man, continued for some time firm and steady to his
purpose ; said the whites were much more to blame than the
Indians ; that three-fourths of them, though they taught the
purest doctrines, praticed the greatest abominations — allu
ding to the base conduct of many in the Rocky Mountains,
where they meet them on their buffalo hunts during the
summer season, and witness the greatest extravagances.
They were shown the inapplicability of such instances to the
present cases of difficulty. He, too, at last was much
subdued ; wished to see me ; was admitted ; made a sensible
speech b his own favor ; said he was constituted eight years
before high chief, entered upon its duties with spirit and
courage, determbed to reduce his people to order. He
flogged the young men, and reproved the middle aged, till,
havbg none to sustain him, his popularity had so declined
that, except in seasons of difficulty, brought about by their
improprieties, I am left alone to say my prayers, and go to
bed, to weep over the follies and wickedness of my peo
ple. Here his voice trembled, and he wept freely — ac
knowledged his opbion that the mill was burnt purposely
by some disaffected persons toward Dr. Whitman. I spoke
kindly and somewhat encouragingly to these chiefs ; assured
them that the guilty only were to be regarded as such ; and

192 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
that candor was commendable, and would be honored by all
the good ; assured them I credited all they said, and deplo
red the state of their nation, which was in perfect anarchy
and confusion ; told them I could say but little to them now,
as their chiefs were mostly abroad ; but must say that the
shocking conduct of one of the chiefs towards Mrs. Whitman
greatly afflicted me ; and that, with the destruction of the
mill, and their abominable conduct towards Dr. Whitman, if
not speedily settled, would lead to the worst of consequen
ces to their tribe. I made an engagement to meet them
and all the tribe the ensuing new moon of April, to adjust
differences, and come to a better understanding, they ear
nestly wishing to adopt the same laws as the Nez Perces
had. We should probably have accomplished a satisfactory
settlement, had not several of the influential chiefs been
too far away to get information of the meeting. We reached
Wascopum on the 25th December, the Indians being in
great excitement, having different views and impressions re
specting the nature of the approaching visit. We spent four
days with them, holding meetings daily, instructing them b
the nature of government, civil relations, domestic duties,
&c. &c. Succeeded, in like happy manner, with them as
the Nez Perces, they unabmously adopting the same code
of laws.
Late .information from one of the missionaries, you will
see in the following note from Mr. H. B. Brewer :
" The Indians of this place intend to carry out the regula
tions you left them to the letter ; they have been quite en
gaged in cutting logs for houses, and live in expectation of
better dwellings by and by. For the least transgression of
the laws they are punished by their chiefs immediately.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 193
The clean faces of some, and the tidy dresses of others, show
the good effects of your visit."
And here allow me to say, except at Wascopum, the mis
sionaries of this upper country are too few in number at their
respective stations, and in too defenceless a state for their
own safety, or the best good of the Indians, the latter taking
advantage of these circumstances, to the no small annoyance,
and, in some instances, greatly endangering the personal
safety of the former. You will see its bearings upon thia
infant colony, and doubtless give such information or instruc
tions to the American board of commissioners or myself, as
will cause a correction of this evil. It has already occasion
ed some difficulty and much cost. I have insisted upon an
increase of numbers at Mr. Spalding's mission, which has
accordingly been reinforced by Mr. Littlejohn and lady, ren
dering that station measurably secure ; but not so at Waii-
laptu, or some of the Catholic missions, where some of them
lost a considerable amount b herds during last winter, and,
I am told, were obliged to abandon their posts, their lives
being endangered. This was in the interior, near the Black-
feet country.
You will observe, from the reports of the different mis
sions, which, so far as I am otherwise informed, are correct,
that they are doing some positive good in the country, not
only by diffusing the light of science abroad among us, but
also by giving employment to many, and, by their drafts.
upon the different boards and others, creating a circulating
medium in this country ; but, though they make compara
tively slow progress in the way of reform among tho abori
gines of this country, their pious and correct example has a
most restraining bfluence upon both whites aud Indians, and:
in this way they prevent much evil.
13

194 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
(They have in successful operation six schools. Rev. Mr.
and Mrs. Spalding — whose zeal and untiring bdustry for the
people of their charge entitle them to our best considerations
— rhave a school — of some two hundred and twenty-four in
constant attendance — most successfully carried forward,
which gives promise of great usefulness to both sexes and all
ages. Rev. Messrs. Walker and Eells I have not been at lei
sure to visit, but learn they have a small school in opera
tion. The one at Wabaptu, Dr. Wbtman's station, is now
recommenced, with promise of usefulness.
The Rev. Mr. Blanchette and associates, though zealous
Catholics, are peaceable, industrious, indefatigable, and suc
cessful, in promoting religious knowledge among the Cana
dian, population and aborigbes of this country. Their enter
prise in the erection of mills and other public works is very
commendable, and the general bdustry, good order, and cor-
xeet habits of that portion of the population under their charge
is sufficient proof that their bfluence over their people has
been exerted for good. The Rev. Mr. Lee and associates,
aside from their well conducted operations, upon the Colum
bia, and a school of some thirty scholars successfully carried
forward upon the Willamette, are doing but little for the In
dians ; nor cobd greater efforts produce much good among
the scattered remnants of the broken tribes of tbs lower
.district, who are fast disappearing before the ravages of the
most, loathsome diseases. Their principal hopes of success
in this country are among the whites, where they are en
deavoring to lay deep and broad the foundations of science.
The literary institution referred to by Mr. Lee is situated
upon a beautiful rising ground — a healthy and eligible loca
tion. Cobd a donation of five thousand dollars be bestowed
upon the institution, it would greatly encourage its friends.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 195
The donations made by individuals of this country have been
most liberal, several giving one-third of all they possessed.
There is a small school established at Falatine plains, by Rev.
Mr. Clark and lady. There is also a school at the Catholic
mission, upon the Willamette, and also one at their station
upon the Cowlitz. For further information, I will refer you
to the reports made, at my request, by the several missions,
and accompanybg these despatches.
The country upon the Columbia and its tributaries, as far
as the Dalles, a distance of two hundred and twenty miles
from its mouth, is well timbered ; above the Dalles timber is
scarce, large districts being destitute, except here and there
a small quantity growing upon the streams of water. The
•country between the Columbia and California is also timber
ed, and of a fine quality. The district contiguous to the
Columbia, is, generally, too rough and mountabous ever to
become an agricultural country ; but south of the Columbia,
in the valley of the Willamette, the soil is admirably adapted
to purposes of agricbture, bebg generally undbatbg prai
ries, surrounded by timbered land, and intersected by nu
merous small streams. This is the character of the country,
generally towards California. Mr. Spalding's report gives a
general statement of the character of the country bordering
upon the Columbia above the Dalles. The Columba, the
principal river of tbs region, is somewhat difficbt to enter,
owing to the want of proper charts, &c. The ships of the
Hudson's Bay Company, are, however, in the constant hab
it of ascending it as far as Vancouver fort. The Willamette,
a tributary of the Columbia, can be ascended at favorable
seasons of the year by vessels of two hundred tons, to within
a few miles of the falls.
The TJmqua river has a small harbor, but cannot be as-

196 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
cended a great distance by vessels. The Nasqually, as you
have been doubtless informed by Commander Wilkes, about
one hundred and forty miles north of the Columbia, forms a
fine harbor; the river, however, not being navigable to a
great distance by large vessels.
Stone for building purposes is abundant on the banks of
the Columbia, stretching far into the interior. There is
some granite, but basaltic rock only is very plentiful upon
the Willamette, to some distance above the falls. Limestone
has been found in some quantities in the neighborhood of the
mouth of the Columbia, though I have not as yet had time
to examine it. Lime has never been made in this country,
except in small quantities, by burning the choral obtained
from the Sandwich islands. Bricks have been made to some
extent, and there are now two persons in the country who
understand making them. There are several mechanics in
the colony, but, for the want of tools and materials, they do
not attempt to carry on their business. There are nine car
penters and two stone masons b the settlement. There are
settlements established upon the Willamette sixty-five miles
from its mouth : at Falatine plains, twelve miles south of the
Columbia, and twenty west of the Willamette falls ; at Clat
sop plains, six miles south of the Columbia; and at the
falls of the Willamette, a population of seventy, engaged in
building storehouses, mills, &c. Here is a water power of
very great extent. The river here takes a perpendicular de
scent of thirty-eight feet, presenting as extensive and advan
tageous sites for mills and factories as any where exist. At
the Clackamus, a small stream falling into the Willamette
two miles below the falls, there is a population of twenty
persons. This settlement commenced last fall ; it is seven

¦TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 197
miles from the falls by land, and upon a pleasant and some
what extensive prairie.
At the Cowlitz, a somewhat rapid river, falling into the
Columbia from the north, about fifty miles from its mouth,
there is a small settlement of sixty -four persons, exjoying
the benefits of the Catholic ministry. The face of the coun
try upon the Cowlitz is generally level, the soil thin, and
impregnated with magnesia, being less fertile than that of
the Willamette valley. Your inqbry respecting the compar
ison between Oregon, from the Dalles to the Pacific — some
two hundred and twenty miles — and the New England
States, I am now somewhat better prepared to answer, hav
ing visited more of this country, and likewise most of the
New England States. As a whole, in point of soil, I think
it much better, having also greatly the advantage in climate,
and vastly superior as a grazing country, the inhabitants not
being obliged to winter their stock.
I must close by praying that measures may be speedily
entered into to take possession of this country, if such steps
have not already been taken. I left home before the close
of the session of congress, and by reason do not know what
disposition was made of Mr. Linn's bill. As a reason for
thus praying, I would here say, the time was when the gen
tlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company and the missions,
wielded the entire influence over this small population ; but
as they have been reinforced latterly from whale ships, the
Rocky Mountains and the southwestern states, these hitherto
salutary restraints and influences are giving way and being
measurably lost.
At present I have considerable influence, but cannot long
expect to retain it, especially in the faithful discharge of my
duty. As a reason for coming to such a conclusion, I had

198 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
but just arrived from the interior when I received an urgent
call to visit the mouth of the Columbia. I left at once, in
company with Nathaniel Crocker, Esq., Mr. Rogers, my in
terpreter, his lady, and her young sister — the females going
only to the falls — with a crew of Indians, on our ill-fated ex
pedition. We reached the falls at sunset, February 1, and
by reason of the water being higher than usual, in passing
around a jutting or projecting rock, the canoe was thrown
up suddenly against a log constituting a landing, at which
instant I stepped off, and in a moment the slender craft was
swept away, with all its precious cargo, over the perpendic
ular falls of thirty-eight feet, three rods below. The shock
was dreadful to this infant colony, and the loss was irrepa
rable, Mr. Rogers being more important to me than any one
in the country ; nor was there a more respectable or useful
ban west of the mountains. Nathabel Crocker came in
with me last fall from Tompkins county ; he was much pleas
ed with the country and its prospects, and the citizens were
Tejoiced at the arrival of such a man in the territory ; he was
every way capacitated for usefulness. None of the bodies of
the four whites Or two Indians have been as yet found. For
further particulars see letter to Mrs. White.*

» " On the First day of February, Mr. Crocker, Mr. Rogers and his
lady, who was once Satira Leslie, and her youngest sister, with myself
and four Indians, were on our way to Astoria. We were passing down
b'y a rock, to reach a log to pass to the shore, the water being very high
and the current strong, the canoe barely passed, giving space for me to
step on the log, when it began to drive. Esquire Crocker seized the
end of the paddle, which I held, and each exerted ourselves to draw it
to the log a second time, but it was in vain ; and in an instant, in spite
of every effort of those on board, excepting the poor females, the canoe
was hurled over the falls, and every soul, except two poor Indians, sent

TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
****'¦¦ On arriving at the mouth of
the Columbia, I found a sailor by the name of George Geere,
who had most evidently and maliciously labored to instigate
the Indians to take the life of one of the mission gentlemen;
by the offer of five blankets. Complaints being made, and
having no better means, I prevailed upon Governor McLaugh1-
lin to allow him to accompany their express across the moun
tains to the States. I wobd here say, as the scamp was
nearly a fool, as well as a villain, I allowed him to go with*-
out sending evidence against him, on condition of his going
voluntarily, and never returning.
I here likewise found a rash, venturesome character, about
into eternity. Chilled and motionless with horror, I witnessed the
dreadful scene. They went down within four rods of me, Mrs. Rogers
uttering a thrilling shriek as they passed over the falls. The two Indi
ans were saved by jumping overboard, and, seemingly against impos-
Bibili ties, swimming to the shore through the rapids. This horrible dis
aster has filled the colony with consternation and deep affliction. Oh,
what a sad blow to poor Mrs. Crocker, and all his connexions. I pray
God to sustain them. He had been spending the last two months. at
my house, and his mildness, condescension, and pleasant, agreeable
manners, will never be forgotten. He was delighted with the country,
and had bright hopes and cheering prospects, and was thinking of clo
sing a contract with O'Neal for his farm and all his herds, in a few-
days, under most advantageous circumstances, and intended' to have
his family out in a short time, as he saw the advantages of this coun
try in a clear and strong light. The hospitality and generosity. of>
the people greatly pleased him, and on the other hand he was univer
sally more than respected ; he was gaining upon the best affections and
kindest regards of the people, and seemed destined to be greatly es
teemed and beloved. * * * * I hope you will be' at
much pains to pour consolation, as far as kind attentions and soothing
language go, into the heart of poo^Mrs. Crocker."
Pardon this digression.

200 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
starting off on a trading excursion, among a somewhat nu
merous band of Indians, and they nowise well disposed to
wards the whites. As he saw and felt no danger, argu
ments were unavailing, and threats only prevented.
Sir, shall men be allowed to go where they please, how
ever remote from the colony, and settle, under circumstan
ces that not only endanger their own personal safety, but the
peace and safety of the whole white population? Please
give me specific instructions respecting this matter.
Though I have addressed you at some length, I should
have brought more before you, and in a better manner, but
for incessant labor, care, and ill health. I have eight pris
oners on hand at present, for various crimes, principally
stealing horses, grain, &c. ; and crimes are multiplying with
numbers among the whites, and with scarcity of game with
the Indians.
******** No intelligence from abroad has reached us this winter-
Mount St. Helen, one of these snow-capped volcanic moun
tains, some sixteen thousand feet above the level of the sea,
and eighty miles north-west of Vancouver, broke out upon
the 20th November last, presenting a scene the most awful
and sublime imaginable, scattering smoke and ashes sev
eral hundred miles distance ; and in the mean time immense
quantities of melted lava were rolling down its sides, and
inundating the plains below.
A petition started from this country to-day, making bitter
complaints against the Hudson's Bay Company and Gov.
McLaughlin. In referring to it — as a copy was denied — I
shall only say, had any gentleman disconnected with the
Hudson's Bay Company been at half the pains and expense
to establish a claim to the Willamette falls, very few would

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 201
have raised an opposition. His half bushel measure I know
to be exact, according to the English imperial standard.
The gentlemen of this company have been fathers and fos
terers of the colony, ever encouraging peace, industry and
good order, and have sustained a character for hospitality
and integrity too well established to be easily shaken.
I am, sir, sincerely and most respectfully,
your- humble and obedient servant,
ELIJAH WHITE,
Sub-agent Indian Affairs, W. R. M.
T. Hartley Crawford, Esq.,
Commissioner Indian Affairs.
My Dear Brother — The kind letter our mission had the
honor of receiving from yourself, making inquiries relative
to its numbers, the character of the Indian tribes among
whom its several stations are located, the country, etc., Ls
now before me.
The questions referring to Indian character are very impor
tant, and to answer them requires a more extensive knowl
edge of character and habits, from personal daily observa
tion, than the short residence of six years can afford, and
more time and attention than I can possibly command, amidst
the numerous cares and labors of the station. I less rep-ret o
this, as the latter will receive the attention of my better in
formed and worthy associates of the other stations.
Concerning many of the questions, I can only give my
own half-formed opinions, from limited observations, which
have not extended far beyond the people of my immediate
charge. Our mission is under the patronage of the A. B. C. F. M.,
and was commenced in the fall of 1836, by Marcus Whit*

202 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
man, M. D., and myself, with our wives, and Mr. Gray.
Dr. Whitman was located at Waiilaptu, among the Keyuse
Indians, twenty -five mileseast of Fort Wallawalla, a trading
post of the Hudson's Bay Company, which stands nine miles
below the junction of Lewis and Clarke rivers, three hundred
miles from the Pacific, and about two hundred miles from
Fort Vancouver. I was located at this place, on the Clear
water or Koos-koos-ky river, twelve miles from its junction
with the Lewis river, one hundred and twenty miles east of
Waiilaptu. Mr. Gray left the same winter, and returned to
the states. In the fall of 1838, Mr. Gray returned to this
country, accompanied by Mrs. Gray, Messrs. Walker, Eells,
and Smith, and their wives, and Mr. Rogers. The next sea
son, two new stations were commenced, one by Messrs.
Walker and Eells at Cimakain, near Spokan river, among the
Spokan Indians, one hundred and thirty-five miles northwest
of this station, and sixty-five miles south of Fort Colville,
on the Columbia river, three hundred miles above Fort Wal
lawalla; the second by Mr. Smith, among the Nez Perces,
sixty miles above the station. There are now connected with
this mission the Rev. Messrs. Walker and Eells, Mrs. Walker
and Mrs. Eells, at Cimakain, myself and Mrs. Spalding at
this station. Dr. Whitman is now on a visit to the states,
and Mrs. Whitman on a visit to the Dalles, a station of jour
Methodist brethren. But two natives have as yet been ad
mitted bto the church. Some ten or twelve others give
pleasing evidence of having been born again.
Concerning the schools and congregations on the Sabbath,
I will speak only of this station. The congregation on the
Sabbath varies at different seasons of the year, and must
contbue to do so until the people find a substitute in the
frbts of the earth and herds for their roots, game, and fish,

TEN' YB*iW IN OUBOOJf. 2/63
which necessarily requires much wandering. I am happy
to say that this people are very generally turning their at
tention, with much apparent eagerness, to cultivatbo- the
soil, and raising hogs, cattle and sheep, and find a much'
more abundant and agreeable source of subsistence b the
hoe than in their bows and sticks for digging roots.
For a few weeks in the fall, after the people return from
tneir buffalo hunt, and then agab in the spring, the congre
gation numbers from one thousand to two thousand. Through
the winter, it varies frotn two hundred to eight hundred1.
From July to the 1st of October, it varies from two hundred1
to five hundred. The congregation, as also the school, in
creases every wbter, as the quantity of provision raised! b
the vicibty is increased.
Preparatory to schools and a permanent congregation, my
earliest attention, on arriving in this country, was turned to
wards schools, as promising the most permanent good to the
nation, in connexion with the 'written word of God and the
preached gospel. But to speak of schools then was like
speaking of the church bell, when as yet the helve is not
put in the first axe by which the timber is to be felled, or
the first stone laid b the dam which is to collect the water
from whence the lumber in the edifice in which the bell is to
give forth its sounds. Suffice it to say, through the blessing
of God, we have had an bcreasbgly large school for two
wbters past, with comparatively favorable means of instruc
tion. But the steps by which we have been brought to the pres
ent elevation, if I may so speak, though we are yet exceed
ingly low, began far, back among the days of nothing, and
little to do with.
Besides eating my Own bread by the sweat of my brow,

204 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
there were the wandering children of a necessarily wandering
people to collect and bring permanently within the reach of
the school. Over this department of labor hung the dark
est cloud, as the Indian is noted for despising manuel labor;
but I would acknowledge, with humble gratitude, the inter
position of that hand which holds the hearts of all men.
The hoe soon brought hope, light, and satisfaction, the
fruits of which are yearly becoming much more than a sub
stitute for their former precarious game and roots, and are
much preferred by the people, who are coming in from the
mountains and plains, and calling for hoes, plows, and seeds,
much faster than they can be furnished, and collecting
around the station in increasing numbers, to cultivate their
little farms, so furnishing a permanent school and congrega
tion on the Sabbath, from four to eight months. And as the
farms are enlarged, giving employment and food for the
year, I trust the school and congregation will be permanent
through the year. It was no small tax on my time to give
the first lessons on agriculture. That the first men of this
nation — the first chiefs not excepted — rose up to labor when
a few hoes and seeds were offered them, I can attribute to
nothing but the unseen hand of the God of missions. That
their habits are really changed is acknowledged by them
selves. The men say, whereas they once did not labor with
their hands, now they do ; and often tell me in jesting that
I have converted them into a nation of women. They are a
very industrious people, and, from very small beginnings,
they now cultivate their lands with much skill and to good
advantage. Doubtless many more would cultivate, but for
the want of means. Your kind donation of fifty hoes, in be
half of the government, will be most timely ; and should
you be able to send up the plows you kindly proposed, they

TEN YEAR3 IN OREGON. 205
will, without doubt, be purchased immediately, and put to
the best use.
But to return to the school. It now numbers two hun
dred and twenty-five in daily attendance, half of which are
adults. Nearly all the prbcipal men and chiefs in this vicin
ity, with one chief from a neighboring tribe, are members of
the school. A new impulse was given to the school by the
warm interest you and Mr. McKay took in it while you were
here. They are as industrious in school as they are on their
farms. Their improvement is astonishing, considering their
crowded condition, and only Mrs. Spalding, with her deli
cate constitution and her family cares, for their teacher.
About one hundred are printing their own books with a
pen. This keeps up a deep interest, as they daily have new
lessons to print, and what they print must be committed to
memory as soon as possible.
A good number are now so far advanced in reading and
printing as to render much assistance b teaching. Their
books are taken home at nights, and every lodge becomes
a school room.
Their lessons are scripture lessons — no others, except the
laws, seem to interest them. I send you a specimen of the
books they print in school. It was printed by ten select
adults, yet it is a fair specimen of a great number in the
school. The laws which you so happily prepared, and which were
unanimously adopted by the people, I have printed b the
form of a small school book. A gi eat number of the school
now read them fluently. I send you a few copies of the
laws, with no apologies for the imperfect manner in which
they are executed. Without doubt, a school of nearly the
same number could be collected at Kimiah, the station above

206 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
this, vacated by Mr. Smith, the present residence of Ellis,
the principal chief.
Number who cultivate. — Last season about one hundred
and forty cultivated from one-fourth of an acre to four or five
acres each. About half this number cultivate b the valley.
One chief raised about one hundred and seventy-six bushels
of peas last season, one hundred of corn, and four hundred
of potatoes. Another one hundred and fifty of peas, one
hundred and sixty of corn, a large quantity of vegetables,
potatoes, etc. Ellis, I believe, raised rather more than either
of the above mentioned. Some forty other bdividuals raised
from twenty to one hundred bushels of various grains.
Eight individuals are now furnished with plows. Thirty-
two head of cattle are possessed by two bdividuals ; ten
sheep by four ; seme forty hogs.
Arts and sciences. — Mrs. Spalding has instructed ten fe
males in knitting, a majority of the female department in the
schools in sewing, six in carding and spinnbg, and three in
weaving. Should our worthy brother and sister, Mr. and
Mrs. Littlejohn, join us soon, as is now expected, I trust, by
the blessing of God, we shall see greater things than we
have yet seen. From what I have seen in the field, the
school, the spinning and weaving room, in the prayer room,
and Sabbath congregation, I am fbly of the opinion that
this people are susceptible of high moral and civil improve
ment. Moral character of the 'people. — On this pobt there is a
great diversity of opinion. One writer styles them more a
nation of sabts than of savages ; and if their refusing to
move camp for game, at his suggestion, on a certab day, re
minded him that the Sabbath extended as far west as the
Rocky Mountabs, he might well consider them such. An-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 207
other styles them supremely selfish, which is nearer the truth ;
for, without doubt, they are the descendants of Adam.
What I have above stated is evidently a part of the brio-ht
side of their character. But there is also a dark side, in
which I have sometimes taken part. I must, however, con
fess that when I attempt to name it, and hold it up as a
marked exception to a nation in similar circumstances, with
out the restraint of wholesome laws, and strangers to the
heaven-born fruits of enlightened and well-regulated society,
I am not able to do it. Faults they have, and very great
ones, yet few of them seemed disposed to break the Sabbath
by travellbg and other secular business. A very few indulge
in something like profane swearing. Very few are super-
stitiously attached to their medicine men — who are, without
doubt, sorcerers — and supposed to be leagued with a super
natural being — wakin — who ihows himself sometimes in the
gray bear, the wolf, the swan, goose, wind, clouds, etc.
Lying is very common ; thieving comparatively rare ; po
lygamy formerly common, but now rare ; much gambling
among the young men ; quarrelling and fighting quite rare ;
habit of taking back property after it is sold is a practice
qbte common, and very evil in its tendency. All these evils,
I conceive, can be traced to the want of wholesome laws
• and well-regulated society. There are two traits in the char
acter of this people I wish to notice. One I think I can ac
count for ; the other I cannot. It is often said the Indian is
a noble-minded being, never forgetting- a kindness. So far
as my experience has gone with this people, the above is
most emphatically true, but b quite a different sense from the
idea there conveyed. It is true they never forget a kbdness,
but often make it an occasion to ask another ; and if refused,
return insults recording to the favors received. My experi-

208 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
ence has taught me that, if I would keep the friendship of
an Indian, and do him good, I must show him no more favor
in the way of property than what he returns some kind of
an equivalent for ; most of our trials have arisen from this
source. I am, however, happy to feel that theie is a mani
fest improvement as the people become more instructed, and
we become more acquainted with their habits. This offen
sive trait in the Indian character I believe, in part, should be
charged to the white man. It has been the universal prac
tice of all the white men to give tobacco, to name no other
article to Indians when they ask for it. Hence two very
natural ideas — one is, that the white man is in debt to them ;
the other is, that in proportion as a white man is a good
man he wi'-l discharge this debt by giving bountifully of his
provisions and goods. This trait in Indian character is capa
ble of being turned to the c.isadvantage of traders, travel
lers, and missionaries, by prejudiced white men.
The last trait, which I cannot account for, is an apparent
disregard for the rights of white men. Although their ea
gerness to receive instruction in the school on the Sabbath
and on the farm is without a parallel b my knowledge, still,
should a reckless fellow from their own number, or even a
stranger, make an attack on my life and property, I have no
evidence to suppose but a vast majority of them would look
on with indifference, and see our dwelling burnt to the ground
and our heads severed from our bodies. I cannot reconcile
this seeming want of gratitude with their many encoura
ging characteristics. But to conclude this subject, should
our unprofitable lives, through a kind Providence, be spared
a few years, by the blessing of the God of missions, we ex
pect to see this people christianized to a great extent, civili
zed, and happy, with much of science and the word of God,

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 20$
and nvny of the comforts of life ; but not without many
days of hard labor, and sore trials of disappointed hopeSi
and nameless perplexities.
The number of this people is variously estimated from two
thousand to four thousand. I can.iot give a correct esti
mate. At this station there is a dwelling house, a school house,
store house, flour and saw mills — all of a rough kind — fif
teen acres of land under improvement, twenty-four head of
cattle, thirty-six horses, sixty-seven sheep. Rev. Messrs.
Walker and Ellis, I hope, will report of Waiilaptu ; but
should they fail, I will say, as near as I can recollect, about
fifty acres of land are cultivated by some seventy individu
als ; a much greater number of cattle and hogs than among
this people. Belonging to the station, thirty-four head of
cattle, eleven horses, some forty hogs ; one dwelling house
of Dobbie's — well furnished — a blacksmith's shop, flour mill
— lately destroyed by fire — and some forty acres of land cul
tivated. Arable land. — The arable land in this upper country is
confined almost exclusively to the small streams, although
further observation may prove that many of the extensive
rolling prairies are capable of producing wheat. They can
become inhabited only by cultivating timber ; but the rich
growth of buffalo grass upon them wilt ever furnish an b-
exhaustible supply for bumerable herds of cattle and sheep.
I know of no country in the world so well adapted to the
herding system. Cattle, sheep, and horses, are invariably
healthy, and produce rapidly ; sheep usually twice a year.
The herding system adopted, the country at first put under
regulations adapted to the scarcity of habitable places— say
that no settlers shall be allowed to take up over twenty acres
14

210 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
of land on the streams— and the country without doubt will
sustain a great population. I am happy to feel assured that
the United States government have no other thought than to
regard the rights and wants of the Indian tribes in thi3
country. And while the agency of Indian affairs in this country re
mains in the hands of the present agent, I have the fullest
confidence to believe that the reasonable expectations in ref
erence to the intercourse between whites and Indians will be
fully realized by every philanthropist and every Christian.
But as the Indian population is sparse, after they are abun
dantly supplied, there will be re.naining country sufficient
for an extensive white population.
The thought of removing these tribes, that the country
may come wholly in the possession of the whites, can never
for a moment enter into the mind of a friend of the red man,
for two reasons, to name no other : first, there are but two
countries to which they can be removed, the Grave and the
Blackfoot, between which there is no choice ; second, the
countless millions of salmon which swarm the Columbia and
its tributaries, and furnish a very great proportion of the sus
tenance of the tribes who dwell upon these numerous waters,
and a substitute for which can nowhere be found east or
west of the Rocky Mountains, but in herds or cultivating
their own land.
Habitable valleys. — Many of the following valleys I have
extensively examined ; with others I am more or less ac
quainted from information. The river Deshutes, putting into
the Columbia river, near the Dalles, from the south, contains,
without doubt, considerable tillable land. The same can bo
said of John Day's river, another tributary of the Columbia
river, from the south, forty miles above the former. The

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. . 21 1
Utilla, another south branch, twenty-five miles below Walla
walla, contains a great quantity of arrable land, perhaps suf
ficient for one hundred and fifty families. The Wallawalla,
another south branch, evidently contains more tillable land,
bcluding its many branches, than any other stream b the
upper country. I judge that three hundred and fifty fami
lies could comfortably locate on this river and its branches.
I speak of white families. Probably it would sustain three
times that number of Indian families, as they will always
live more or less upon fish. The mission station of Dr.
Whitman, among the Keyuse, is on the upper waters of the
Wallawalla. The Wallawalla river proper probably may be
cultivated for thirty miles; the Tusha, its principal branch,
perhaps for fifty miles ; the Sataksnima, a small branch, fif
teen miles. On the Tshimnap, Okanagan, and some other
rivers coming bto the Columbia river from the west, there
is said to be more or less tillable land. The Tuckanan, a
south branch of the Snake river, some seventy miles above
its mouth, contains some land apparently of the best quality.
It resembles a piece in this valley, which has produced one
thousand four hundred bushels of potatoes to the acre.
The tillable land extends up the Tuckanan, twelve miles, and
about five up the Pataha, a branch. Probably sixty families
could locate here. This is a favorable location for a settle
ment, by reason of the advantages of the large river for
transportation and rafting timber. The Paluse, putting in
from the opposite side of the Tuckanan, contains some good
land. This valley — Lapwai — will probably settle two hun
dred and fifty families of Indians. Most of the land is al
ready taken up. Yacktoin, putting in from the opposite
side, three miles above this, will settle as many more. There
are said to be several other valleys between this and the

212 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
mountains, containing arable land. The Grand Round is a
beautiful plain, fifty miles in circuit, on the route from fort
Boisi to Wallawalla, probably all susceptible of cultivation.
It is surrounded by mountains and may be frosty. About
forty miles southeast of this is another rich valley, of some
thirty-five miles in length, interspersed with large plats of
white clover, through which a beautiful lake pours its cold
waters b a rapid river, which unites with the Grand Round,
and forms the Wailua, a branch of the Snake river. There
are three or four other considerable streams putting into the
Snake river above this, from the south, on two or three of
wbch there are said to be large fertile plains. I know of
but very little arable land in the vicinity of Salmon river.
- On the Shuhspalanima and Quaicksnima, two considerable
branches of the Snake river, above Salmon, there is said to
be some good land. Dr. Whitman writes me from fort Hall, \
saying that in his journey to that place he travelled some
fifty miles up the Boisi river, and thinks there is more good ;
land on it than on any other stream with which he is ac
quainted b this upper country.
There is an extensive red clover plain, commencing about
five miles south of this station, which I think would pro
duce ; but there is no timber, and very little water. Doubt
less many other arable valleys will show themselves, as the
country becomes more thoroughly explored.
Your humble servant,
H. H. SPALDING.
Dr. White,
Agent of Indian Affairs west of the Rocky Mountans.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 213

CHAPTER XX.
Excitement among the Indians — Different views of the alarmed* whites
— Another journey — State of the Indians — Mr. Spalding's station—
Nez Perces — Keyuses and Wallawalas — Presence of the women at
the feast — Peace — Visit the Dalles — Course of the agent — Laws of
the whiteE — Immigrating party — Willamette valley — Gov. McLaugh
lin — False reportf — Schools — Mission claim — Mr. Lee — Instructions
to immigrants — Oregon Institute — Letters.
Willamette Valley, Oregon, Nov. 15, 1843.
Honored Sir — Since my arrival, I have had the honor
of addressing you some three or four coramunicutionsy the
last of which left early in April, conveyed by the Hudson's1
Bay Company's express over the Rocky Mountains, via. Can
ada, which I hope and judge was duly received.
Immediately after this, I received several communications
from missionaries of the interior, some from the Methodists,
and those sent out by the American board, representing the
Indians in the interior as in a great state of excitement, and
under much apprehension from the circumstance that Sueh
number of whites were coming in, as they were informed, to
take possession of their land and country. The excitement
soon became general, both among whites and Indians, ins this
lower as well as upper district ; and such were the constantly
floating groundless reports, that much uneasiness was fett,
and some of our citizens were under such a state of appre
hensions as to abandon their houses, and place themselves
more immediately within the precincts of the colony. As
b all such cases, a variety of opinions were entertained and

214 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
expressed — some pleading for me, at the expense of the gen
eral government, to throw up a strong fortification in the
centre of the colony, and furnish the settlers with guns and
ammunition, so that we might be prepared for extremities.
Others thought it more advisable forjne to go with an armed
force pf considerable strength to the heart and centre of the
conspiracy, as it was represented, and if words will not an
swer, make power and balls do it. A third party entertain
ed different views, and few were really agreed on any one
measure. As may be imagined, I felt the awkwardness of my posi
tion ; but, without stopping to consult an agitated populace,
selected a sensible clergyman and a single attendant, with
my interpreter, and so managed as to throw myself imme
diately into their midst unobserved. The measure had the
desired effect — though, as in my report I will more fully in
form you, had like to have cost me my life.
The Indians flocked around me, and inquired after my par
ty, and could not be persuaded, for some time, but that I
had a large party concealed somewhere near, and only wait
ed to get them convened, to open a fire upon, and cut them
all off at a blow. On convincing them of my defenceless
condition and pacific intentions, they were quite astounded
and much affected, assuring me they had been under strong
apprehensions, having learned I was soon to visit them with
a large armed party, with hostile intentions, and I actually
found them suffering more from fears of war from the whites,
than the whites from the Indians — each party resolving,
however, to remain at home, and there fight to the last 
though, fortunately, some three or four hundred miles
apart. The day following we left these Wallawallas and Keyuses,

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 215
to pay a visit to the Nez Perces, promising to call on our re
turn, and enter into a treaty of amity, if we could aoree on
the terms, and wished them to give general notice to all con
cerned, of both tribes.
In two days we were at Mr. Spalding's station. The Nez
Perces came together in greater numbers than on any for
mer occasion for years, and all the circumstances combining
to favor it, received us most cordially. Their improvement
during the winter, in reading, writing, etc., was considera
ble, and the enlargement of their plantations, with the b-
creased variety and quantities of the various kinds of grains
and products now vigorously shooting forth, connected with
the better state of cultivation and their universally good fen
ces, were certainly most encouraging.
Spending some days with this interesting tribe, and their
devoted missionaries, in the pleasantest manner, they accept
ed my invitation to visit with me the Keyuses and Wallawal
las, and assist by their influence to bring them into the same
regulation they had previously adopted, and with which all
were so well pleased.
Mr. Spalding and Ellis, the high chief, with every other
chief and brave of importance, and some four or five hun
dred of the men and their women, accompanied us to Waii
laptu, Dr. Whitman's station, a distance of a hundred and
twenty miles, where we met the Keyuses and Wallawallas
in mass, and spent some five or six days in getting matters
adjusted and principles settled, so as to receive the Keyuses
bto the civil compact ; which being done, and the high chief
elected, much to the satisfaction of both, whites and Indians,
I ordered two fat oxen killed, and wheat, salt, etc., distrib
uted accordingly. * * * *
This was the first feast at which the Indian women of this

216 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
country were ever permitted to be present, but probably
will not be the last ; for, after some explanation of my rea
sons, the chiefs were highly pleased with it ; and I believe
more was done at that feast to elevate and bring forward
their poor, oppressed women than could have been done in
years by private instruction.
The feast broke up in the happiest manner after Five-
Crows, the Keyuse chief, Ellis, and the old war chief of
whom I made particular mention in my last report as being
so well acquainted with Clarke, and a few others, had made
their speeches, and we had smoked the pipe of peace, which
was done by all in great good humor.
From this, we proceeded to the Dalles on the Columbia
river, where I spent two months in instructing the Indians
»f different tribes, who either came in mass, or sent ambas
sadors to treat with me, or, as they denominate it, take my
laws, which are thus far found to operate well, giving them
greater security among themselves, and helping much to
regulate their intercourse with the whites. Being exceed
ingly anxious to bring about an improvement and reforma
tion among this people, I begged money and procured arti
cles for clothing to the amount of a few hundred dollars, not
to be given, but to be sold out to the industrious women, for
mats, baskets, and their various articles of manufacture, in
enler to get them clothed comfortably to appear at church ;
enlisted the cheerful co-operation of the mission ladies in in
structing them how to sew and make up their dresses ; and
had the happiness to see some twenty of these neatly clad at
divine service, and a somewhat larger number out in the hap
piest mood to a feast I ordered them, at which the mission
ladies and gentlemen were present.
During these two months I labored hard, visiting many

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 211
of their sick daily ; and by the most prompt and kind atten
tion, and sympathizing with them in their affliction, encour
aging the industrious and virtuous, and frowning in lano-uage
and looks upon the vicious, I am satisfied good was done.
They gave evidence of attachment ; and my influence was
manifestly increased, as well as the laws more thoroughly
understood, by reason of my remaining so long among them.
During my up-country excursion, the whites of the colo
ny convened, and formed a code of laws to regulate inter-
coui se between themselves during the absence of law from
our mother country, adopting in almost all respects the Iowa
code. In this I was consulted, and encouraged the meas
ure, as it was so manifestly necessary for the collection of
debts, securing rights in claims, and the regulation of gen
eral intercourse among; the whites.
Thus far, these laws have been of some force and impor
tance, answering well in cases of trespass and the collec
tion of debts ; but it is doubtful how they would succeed in
criminal affairs, especially if there should happen to be a
division of sentiment in the public mind.
The Indians of this lower country, as was to be expected,
give considerable trouble, and are most vexatious subjects to
deal with. In mind the weakest and most depraved of their
race, and physically, thoroughly contaminated with the
scrofula, and a still more loathsome disease entailed by the
whites ; robbed of their game and former means of cover
ing ; lost to the use of the bow and arrow ; laughed at,
scoffed, and contemned by the whites, and a hiss and by
word to the surrounding tribes, they are too dejected and
depressed, to feel the least pleasure in their former amuse
ments, and wander about seeking generally a scanty pittance
by begging and pilfering, but the more ambitious and des-

218 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
perate among them stealing, and in some instances plunder
ing on a large scale. Were it not that greater forbearance
is exercised towards them than whites generally exercise,
bloodshed, anarchy, and confusion would reign predominant
among us. But, thus far, it is but just to say, the Indians
have been, in almost every instance, the aggressors ; and
though none of us now apprehend an Indian war or inva
sion, it appears to me morally impossible that general quiet
can long be secure, unless government take almost immedi
ate measures to relieve the anxieties and better the condition
of these poor savages and other Indians of this country. I
am doing what I can, by reason of my profession, with lend
ing them all the assistance ^possible in sickness, and sympa
thizing; with them in their numerous afflictions, and occa-
sionally feeding, feasting, and giving them little tokens of
kind regard, have as yet considerable influence over them,
but have to punish some, and occasion the chiefs to punish
more, which creates me enemies, and must eventuate in les
sening my influence among them, unless the means are put
in my hands to sustain and encourage the chiefs and well-
disposed among them. Good words, kind looks, and medi
cine, have some power ; Jbut, honored and very dear sir, you
and I know they do not tell with Indians like blankets and
present articles, to meet their tastes, wants, and necessities.
Sir, I know how deeply anxious you are to benefit and save
what can be of the withering Indian tribes, in which God
knows how fully and heartily I am with you, and earnestly
pray you, and through you our general government) to take
immediate measures to satisfy the minds, and, so far as pos
sible, render to these Indians an equivalent for their once nu
merous herds of deer, elk, buffalo, beaver, and otter, nearly
as tame as our domestic animals, previously to the whites and

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 219
their fire arms coming among them, and of which they' are
now stripped, and for which they suffer. But, if nothing
can be done for them on this score, pray save them from be
ing forcibly ejected from the lands and graves of their fath
ers, of which they begin to entertain serious fears. Many
are becoming considerably enlightened on the subject of the
white man's policy, and begin to quake in view of then- fu
ture doom ; and come to me from time to time, anxiously in
quiring what they are to receive for such an one coming and
cutting off all their most valuable timber, and floating it to
the falls of the Willamette, and getting large sums for it ;
some praying the removal of licentious whites from among
them; others requiring pay for their old homestead, or a re
moval of the intruders. So, sir, you see already I have my
hands, head and heart full ; and if as yet I have succeeded
in giving satisfaction — as many hundreds that neither know
nor care for me, nor regard in the least the riajhts of the In-
dians are now flocking in — something more must be done,
and that speedily, or a storm ensues.
I remove all licentious offenders from among them, espe
cially if. located a distance from the colony, and encourage
the community to keep within bounds, and settle as com
pactly as the general bterest and duty to themselves will
admit. The large immigrating party have now arrived, most of
them with their herds, having left the wagons at Wallawalla
and the Dalles, which they intend to bring by land or water
to the Willamette in the spring. Whether they succeed in
getting them through by land the last sixty miles is doubt
ful, the road not having been as yet well explored. They
are greatly pleased with the country and its prospects. Mr.
Applegate, who has been so much in government employ

220 TEN YEAR8 IN OREGON.
and surveyed such portions of the Missouri, says of this val
ley, it is a country of the greatest beauty and the finest soil
he has seen.
Having visited larger portbns, and in different directions,
the last summer than heretofore — principally in the moun
tainous parts between this and the Dalles — I am most cheer
ful in saying 1 have not seen a country presenting such a
variety of beautiful scenery, and possessing, at the same
time, such advantages of timber, water, strength of soil, and
mildness of climate ; and, as to health, having visited six
teen of the United States, the Sandwich islands, with some
other portions of the earth, I must say, after practising med
icine somewhat extensively for the last six years, I regard it
the most healthy country with which I am acquainted ; dis
eases the least numerous in class, and simple in character,
being entirely under the control of proper remedies.
The settlers are actively and vigorously employed, and the
colony in a most prosperous state ; crops of every kind hav
ing been unusually good this season. The little unhappy
difference between the American settlers and the Hudson's
Bay Company, arising from the last spring's petition to our
government, has been healed, and we have general quiet —
both parties conducting very properly towards each other at
present. And here allow me to say, the seasonable service
in which hundreds of dollars were gratuitously expended in
assisting such numbers of our poor emigrant citizens down
the Columbia to the Willamette, entitle Gov. McLaughlin,
saying nothing of his previous fatherly and fostering care of
this colony, to the honorable consideration of the members
of this government. And I hope, as he is desirous to settle
with his family in this country, and has made a claim at the
falls of the Willamette, his claim will be honored i:i such a

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 221
manner as to make him conscious that we, as a nation, are
not insensible to his numerous acts of benevolence and hos
pitality towards our countrymen. Sir, in the midst of slan
der, envy, jealousy, and, in too many instances, of the black
est ingratitude, his unceasing, never tiling hospitality affects
me, and makes him appear in a widely different light than too
many would have him and his worthy associates appear be
fore the world.
The last year's report, in which was incorporated Mr.
Linn's Oregon Speech and Captain Spalding's statements of
hundieds of unoffending Indians being shot down annually
by men under his control, afflicts the gentlemen of the Hud
son's Bay Company, and is utterly without foundation — no
company or gentlemen ever having conducted more judi
ciously among Indians than they uniformly have done in this
country ; and I am of the Governor's opinion, who declares,
openly, there have not ten Indians been killed by whites in
this whole region west of Fort Hall, for the last twenty
years, nor do I know of that number, and two of those were
killed by our citizens. What were destroyed by the Hud
son's Bay Company suffered for wilful murder, none pre
tending a doubt of the propriety of the course adopted.
There are now four schools kept in the colony, of which I
shall speak more fully in my annual report — one at the Fal-
atbe Plains, under the direction and aur.piccs of the Rev.
Mr. Clark, a self-supporting missionary ; a second — French
and English — school, is in successful operation by Mr. Blan-
chette, Roman Catholic missionary to this colony ; a third is
well supported by the citizens, and kept at the falls of the
Willamette ; a fourth — boarding and manual labor — sustain
ed by the Methodist board of missions, for the benefit of In
dian youth, of which Mr. Lee will speak particularly. The

222 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. '
location is healthy, eligible, and beautiful, and the noble ed
ifice does honor to the benevolent cause and agents that
founded it. And while here, allow me to say Mr. Jesse Ap-
plegate, from Missouri, is now surveying the mission claim,
a plan of which will be presented to the consideration of the
members of our government, for acceptance or otherwise, of
which I have but little to say, as I entertain no doubt Mr.
Lee's representation will be most faithful. Should the
ground of his claim be predicated upon the much effected
for the benefit of the Indians, I am not with him ; for,
with all that has been expended, without doubting the cor
rectness of the intention, it is most manifest to every observer
that the Indians of this lower country, as a whole, have been •
very little benefitted. They were too far gone with scrofula
and venereal. But should he insist, as a reason of his claim,
the benefit arising to the colony and country, I am with him
heartily ; and notwithstanding the claim is a valuable one,
this country has been increased more by the mission opera
tions, than twice its amount in finance ; besides, much has
been done in advancing civilization, temperance, literature,
and good morals, saying nothing of the evils that must have
arisen in this lawless country in the absence of all moral re
straint. Mr. Lee was among the first pioneers to this distant
land, has struggled in its cares, toils, and trials, has risen
with its rise ; and it is but just to say, he and his associates
are exerting a considerable and most salutary influence all
abroad among us. I hope his reception will be such that he
will return from Washington cheered and encouraged to
pursue his benevolent operations in this country. The Cath
olic and the different Protestant missions have been pros
perous during the last year, and are as generally acceptable

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 223
to the whites as could, from their different pursuits, be ex
pected. ******* In closing, allow me to say, for the instruction and en
couragement of immigrants : — Come light, save with provis
ions, and travel compactly. Heed this last injunction by all
means, so far at least as not less than fifty to be found aloof
from the main camp, and you will save yourselves from dan
ger and wrong, and the Indians from temptation and guilt.
Last spring I addressed a communication to the present im
migrating party, meeting them at Fort Hall, urging upon
them, from a variety of considerations, the same directions,
a part only of whom followed them — others came strolling
along in little bands of from two to six, and, as was to be
expected, scarcely any escaped without bebg robbed and
pillaged. Such conduct is highly censurable, as it tends
directly to encourage and embolden the Indians to their hurt
and our ruin.' By travelling compactly, and treating the
Indians kindly, but with proper reserve, and at all times
keeping a vigilant watch, no danger is to be apprehen
ded to person or property ; but without these regula
tions there is danger. Have no apprehension of want ; it
is a land of plenty ; and, after a long and well contested
debate, a few months since, at our Oregon lyceum, it was
unanimously voted, that the colony of Willamette held out
the most flattering encouragement to immigrants of any col
ony on the globe. Great expectations are entertained, from
the fact that Mr. Linn's bill has passed the senate ; and as it
has been so long before the public, and favorably entertabed
at Washington, should it at last fail of passing the lower
house, suffer me to predict, in view of what so many have
had to undergo, in person and property, to get to this dis-

224 TEN YEARS IN ORECON.
tant country, it will create a disaffection so strong as to end
only in open rebellion; whereas, should it pass into a law, it
will be regarded as most liberal and handsome, and will be
appreciated by most, if not all in Oregon.
As to the ckim for the Oregon institute, I need say no
thing, having said enough in my last report; but, as that
may have failed in reaching, I would just remark, that the
location is a healthy one, and the site fine, with prospect
charmingly varied, extensive and beautiful.
I leave this subject with Mr. Lee and the members of our
liberal government, not doubting but that all will be done
for this institute, and otherwise, that can be, and as soon as
practicable, to lay deep and broad the foundation of science
and literature in this country.
And here I must close, as Mr. Lee is already sixty miles
on his way, but not without saying I am much obliged in
getting your last report, which reached me a few weeks
since, and shall feel still more obliged and honored in getting
a communication from your own pen, enlightening, correct
ing, encouraging, or admonishing me, in my new and diffi
cult work, and certainly most awkward position, in which, as
yet, I have succeeded better with both whites and Indians
than I expected, and can but hope some good has been ef
fected by my appointment, especially to the latter.
As my former worthy interpreter is dead, allow me to
pray the appointment of Ellis, the high chief of the Nez Per
ces, in his stead, who is not only versed in his own tongue
and the Wallawalhis, but an English scholar, and a man of
sense. As he is so well regarded, his appointment will have
a good influence both among whites and Indians.
I have kept within limit of the three hundred dollars for
interpreters the last year, being under the necessity of paying

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 228
one hundred and eighty dollars for sixty days' service at one
time, and in no instance short of a dollar per day, though I
hire as I want, and dismiss at once on closing present busi
ness — this being the only way I could hope to give the de
partment satisfaction, in view of the multiplicity of tribes
and languages this side the mountains. I have sent for and
been hourly expecting my bills from Vancouver, but, from
some cause unknown to me, they have not yet reached, and
by this reason I am prevented sending at this time my quar
terly report of expenditure — a circumstance I regret, and did
not expect ; but, aside from interpreter, travellbg expenses,
and for office contingencies, it is small, and shall be forwarded
at my earliest convenience. The sum allowed for feeding
and feasting Indians, as provisions are very high — beef be
ing worth from five to seven dollars per hundred, pork from
eight to ten dollars, wheat, corn, barley, and peas, a dollar,
and potatoes forty cents — proves hardly sufficient to give
satisfaction. The erection of my little office, at the expense
of two hundred and twenty-five dollars, I hope and trust,
with my actual travelling expenses, will be paid. If this
cannot be done consistently, pray call me home at once.
As I notified you in my report, I cannot sell drafts paya
ble in Washbgton, and await your order to draft on London
for at least one thousand dollars per annum, as, for the last
year, for interpreter and my travelling expenses, with office
contingencies and prerents to Indians, I have been under the
necessity of drafting more from Vancouver than I expected
— the Indian excitement and threatened invasion rendering
this unavoidable. Respectfully yours, ELIJAH WHITE,
Su-b-Agent Indian Affairs, W. B. M.
Hon. J. M. Porter, Secretary of War.
15

226 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
Willamette, March 18, 1844.
Sir — On the evening of the first February, the two fol
lowing letters came to me, finding me in the upper settle
ment of the Willamette, distance forty miles :
Willamette Falls, January 34, 1844.
*' Dear Sir — The undersigned would take this occasion
to inform you that there has been of late b this place some
few cases of btoxication from the effects of ardent spirits.
It is currently reported that it is distilled in this place, and
the undersigned have good reason to credit such reports.
Whilst, therefore, the undersigned will not trouble you, sir,
with a detailed exposition of the facts, they must be permit
ted to express their deliberate conviction that that which has
inflicted so much injury upon the morals, the peace, and the
happbess of the world, ought not to be permitted to be
manufactured in this country under any circumstances. And
your attention is respectfully bvited to this subject.
"We have the honor to be, dear sir,
"PETER H. HATCH, President.
"A. F. LOVEJOY, Vice President.
"A. F. WALLER, Secretary.
"Dr. E. White,
Sub- Agent of Indian Affairs for Oregon Territory.
" Willamette Falls, January 26, 1844.
" Dear Sir — I do not know but you have been written
to already on the subject which is the cause of no inconsid
erable excitement at this place, viz : — The manufacture and
use of that most degrading, withering, and damning of all
the causes that has ever visited our race since the fall of

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 22?
Adam. As much as we regret it, deplore it, and anathema
tize the man who made it, it is nevertheless made, and men,
or rather biped brutes, get drunk. Now, we believe if there
is any tbng that calls your attention b your official capacity,
or any thing in which you would be most cordially support
ed by the good sense and prompt action of the better part
of the community, it is the present case. We do not wish to
dictate, but hope for the best, beggbg pardon for btrusions
"I am, dear sir, yours trby, W. H. WILSON.
"E. White, Sub- Agent Oregon Territory."

ftS ten te^ks in ore sew.

CHAPTER XXL
SSa^u/ajctMrfi of liqaprs — Breaking up a distillery — Conduct of Cect-
atpsk,, an Indian — Affray — Killing of Cockstock — Deaths from poi
soned arrowy — Interview with the Indians. — Previous frightful affair
with Cockstock — Alarming visit of fift.-en Indians — Cold Blooded
murder — Presents to Coekstock's widow — Protection required — Let
ter from Mr. Hines — Meeting of the legislative body — Resolution —
Unhappy affray — Conduct in courts — Resources of the country — Soil
of Oregon— Arrival of Rev. Mr. Desmitt, nuns and priests — Port —
Exports — Imports — Tour — Schools — Quiet among the Indians —
Note from Mr. Littlejohn — Fidelity of the Indians — Reasons for pre
venting the sale of liquor — Enactment of the legislative committee
of Oregon — An act to provide ways and means.
I accordingly left at sunrise on the followbg mornbg,and
reached the falls at sunset. Without delay, I secured the
criminal and his distillery, broke his apparatus, and buried it
in the Willamette river. I put the aggressor under bonds,
b the strongest penalty the nature of the case would admit,
three hundred dollars — few being willbg to be his bondmen
even for tbs amount.
Mr. Pettygrove, a merchant of good habits and character,
being accused of keeping and selling wine and brandy, I
soarched, and found, as he had acknowledged, a half gallon
of brandy, and part of a barrel of port wine, which has been
used and occasionally parted with only for medicinal purpo
ses ; and, to avoid all appearance of partiality, I required the
delivery of the brandy and wine on the delivery of the en
closed bond, which was most cheerfully and cordially given —

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 2-29
amount one thousand dollars. I searched every suspicious
place thoroughly, aided by the citizens, but found no ardent
spirits or wine b the colony. Since this period, no attempt
has been made to make, introduce or vend liquors ; and the
great majority of the colonists come warmly to my support
in this matter, proffering their aid to keep this bane from our
community. On the evening of February 29, I received the following
eemmunication, accompanied by corroboratory statements
from Mr. Foster, of Oregon city :
" Willamette Falls, February 16, 1844.
"Sir — I beg leave to inform you that there is an Indian
about this place, by the name of ' Cockstoek,' who is in the
habit of making continual threats against the settlers b this
neighborhood, and who has also murdered several Indiass
lately. He has conducted himself lately in so outrageous a
manner, that Mr. Winslow Anderson has considered himself
b personal danger, and on that account has left his place,
and come to reside at the falls of the Willamette ; and were
I in circumstances that I could possibly remove from my
place, I would ceitably remove also, but am so situated that
it is not possible for me to do so. I beg, therefore, that you,
sir, will take into consideration the propriety of ridding the
country of a villian, against the depradations of whom none
can be safe, as it is impossible to guard against the lurking
attacks of the midnight murderer. I have therefore taken
the liberty of informing you that I shall be in expectation of
a decided answer from you on or before the 10th of March
next ; after that date I shall consider myself justified b act
ing as I shall see fit, on any repetition of the threats made

230 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
by the before-mentioned Indian or his party. I am, &c,
with respect,
"JAMES D. SAULES.
"Dr. E. White, Superbtendent, &e."
Aa I well knew all the individuals concerned, I resolved
to repair immediately to the spot, and, if possible, secure
the Indian without bloodshed, as he was connected with
some of the most formidable tribes in this part of the terri
tory, though a very dangerous and violent character. Ac
cordingly, I started, and reached the falls the following even
ing, collected a party to repair to the spot, and secure him
whilst asleep, knowing that he would not submit to be taken
a prisoner without resistance. The evening was stormy, and
the distance some eight miles, through thick wood and fal
len timber, with two bad streams to cross. Being on foot,
my party declbed the attempt till morning — a circumstance
I much regretted ; yet, having no military force, I was com
pelled to yield. In the morning I headed the party of ten
men to take this Indian, who had only five adherents, b
hopes to surprise and secure him without fighting — enjoin
ing my men, from many considerations, not to fire ' unless
ordered to do so in self-defence. Unfortunately, two horses
had just been stolen and a house plundered, and the Indians
absconded, leaving no doubt on our minds of their bebg the
thieves, as after trackbg them two or three miles into the
forest, they had split off in such a manner as to elude pur-
sbt, and we were forced to return to town unsuccessful, as
further pursbt was little more rational than chasing an ea
gle to the mountabs. Cockstock had sworn vengeance
against several of my party, and they tbrsted for his blood.
Having no other means of securing him, I offered one hun-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 231
dred dollars reward to any who Tvould deliver him safely into
my hands, as I wished to convey him for trial to the author
ities constituted among the Nez Perces and Keyuses, not
doubtmg that they wobd feel honored in inflicting a just
sentence upon him, and the colony thereby be saved from
an Indian war, so much to be dreaded b our present weak
and defenceless condition.
Some six days subsequent, Cockstock and his party, six
b all, came into town at mid-day, rode from house to house,
showing their loaded pistols, and not allowbg any one, by
artifice or flattery, to get them out of his bosom or hand.
He and his party were horridly painted, and rode about the
town, setting, as the citizens and especially his enemies con
strued it, the whole town at defiance. The citizens endured
it for several hours, but with great impatience, when at
length he crossed the river, and entered the Indian village
opposite, and, as the chief states, labored for some time to
bduce them to join him and burn down the town that night,
destroying as many of the whites as possible. Failbg b
tbs — if serious or correct in statement, which is much doubt
ed by some, as the chief and the whole Indian village were
mimical to him, and doubtless wished, as he was a "brave,"
to make the whites the bstrument of his destruction — he
obtained an interpreter and re-crossed the river, as other In
dians state, for the purpose of calling the whites to an ex
planation for pursubg him with hostile intentions. By this
time, the excitement had become intense with all classes,
and both sexes amongst the whites ; and, as was to be ex
pected, they ran in confusion and disorder towards the pobt
where the Indians were landing — some to take him alive and
get the reward, others to shoot him at any risk to them
selves, the wealthiest men in town promising to stand by

232 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
them to the amount of one thousand dollars each. With
these different views, and no concert of action, and many
running merely to witness the affray, the Indians were met
at the landing, and a firing simultaneously commenced on
both sides, each party accusing the other of firing first. In
the midst of a hot firing on both sides, Mr. George W. Le
Breton, a respectable young man, rushed unarmed upon
Cockstock, after the discharge of one or more of his pistols,
and received a heavy discharge in the palm of his right hand,
lodging one ball in his elbow and another in his arm, two
inches above the elbow joint. A scuffle ensued, in which
he fell with the Indian, crying out instantly, "he is killing
me with his knife." At this moment, a mulatto man ran up,
named Winslow Anderson, and despatched Cockstock, by
breaking in his skull with the ban-el of his rifle, using it as a
Soldier would a bayonet. In the mean time, the Other Indi
ans were firing among the whites in every direction, with
guns, pistols and poisoned arrows, yelling fearfully, and
many narrowly escaped. Two men who were quietly at
work near by, were wounded with arrows — Mr. Wilson
slightly in the hip, and Mr. Rogers in the muscle of the arm
— but neither, as was supposed, dangerously. The five In
dians, having shot their guns and arrows, retired towards the
bluff east of the town, lodged themselves in the rocks, and
again commenced firing upon the citizens indiscriminately.
Attention was soon directed that way, and the fire arms hav-
bg been brought, the Indians were soon routed, killing one
of their horses, and wounding one of them, thus ending the
affray. Mr. Le Breton — the surgeon being absent from town —
was removed immediately to Vancouver, where he received
every attention ; but the canoe having been ten hours on the

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 288
passage, the poison had diffused itself all abroad b his sys
tem, and proved mortal in less than three days from the
moment of the horrid disaster. Mr. Rogers lived but one
day longer, though but slightly wounded with an arrow in
the muscle of his arm. Mr. Wilson has suffered compara
tively little, but is not considered b a safe condition.
This unhappy affray has created a general sensation
throughout the colony, and all abroad among the Indians of
this lower district. Now, whilst I am penning these lines, 1
am completely surrounded by at least seventy armed Indi
ans, just down from the Dalles of the Columbia, many of
them professed relatives of the deceased, on their way to the
falls of the Willamette, to demand an explanation, or, in
Other words, to extort a present for the loss of their brother.
They appear well affected towards me — remarkably so —
though armed to the teeth, and painted horridly. I am
every moment expecting my interpreter, when I shall prob
ably learn particulars respecting their intentions. In the
mean time, I will give a few particulars respecting this de
ceased Indian's previous course, which led to the disaster,
showing how much we need authorities and discipline b this
country. As it is said, a negro hired Cockstock for a given time, to
be paid in a certain horse. Before the time expired, the ne
gro sold the horse and land claim to another negro, the In
dian finishing his time with the purchaser, according to
agreement. Learning, however, to his chagrin and mortifi
cation, that the horse had changed owners, and believing it
a conspiracy against his rights, resolved to take the horse
forcibly — did so — and this led to a year's contention, many
threats, some wounds, and at last to the three deaths, and
may possibly lead to all the horrors of savage warfare b our

234 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
btherto quiet neighborhood. It was this identical Cock
stock that occasioned much of the excitement last spring,
among the whites of the colony, actually driving several from
their homes to the more central part of the settlement for
protection. I saw and had an interview with the Indians in June fol
lowing, and settled all differences, to appearance, satisfacto
rily ; but, four months subsequently, having occasioned the
authorities constituted among the Indians to flog one of his
connexions for violently entering the house of the Rev. H.
R. Perkins, seizbg his person, and attempting to tie, with a
view to flog him, he took fire afresh, and b November last
came with a slave to my house, with the avowed object of
shooting me down at once ; but finding me absent, after a
close search b every part of the house, he commenced
smashing the windows, lights, sash, and all, of my house
and office, with the breech of his gun ; and it is but just to
say, he did his work most effectually, not leaving a sound
window in either. He next started hotly in pursuit of my
steward, who was most actively retreating, but soon over
taken and seized by the shoulder ; his garment giving way,
saved the frightened young man from further violence.
I returned late in the evening, tbs having occurred at
three, P. M., when the villains were too far away to be over
taken, though I pursued them with the best men of the
colony during the whole night, and so long as we could
trace them. This was regarded a great outrage, and crea
ted a strong sensation throughout the community, especially
as none knew where to trace it until within a few weeks past.
Some four weeks subsequently, fifteen Indians came in open
day, riding into the neighborhood, painted and well armed.
I was the first, with one exception, that observed them, and

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 235
learned they were Mobiles and Klamets, and felt confident
they were on an errand of mischief, bebg well informed of
their maraudbg and desperate habits. As this is qbte out
of their provbce, the proper homes of the Klamets bebg at
least three hundred miles to the south, and the Molallas,
with whom they btermarry, having their lodges in the Cas
cade mountabs, a distance of from forty to eighty miles, I
resolved at once to turn their visit to account ; sent my stew
ard to chief Caleb's lodge, where all had arrived, he being
a Callapooyah, and with his band having previously entered
with me into the civil compact, and gave him a cordial bvi-
tation to call on me, with the chiefs visiting him, in the
morbng, as I wished to see them, and had some interestbg
and pleasing news to convey to them. The chiefs called b
the morbng, none, however, appearbg so pleased and happy
as Caleb. Of this I took no notice ; but entered bto cheer-
fb conversation with Caleb for a few moments, and then
rose up and bvited them to walk out and see my plantation
and herds.
When we reached the cattle, I, as by accident, or inciden
tally, asked Caleb if he was prepared to give a feast to his
distant friends who had so lataly and unexpectedly called on
him. Answering in the negative, I told him to shoot down
at once a fat young ox that was passing before us, and, while
some were dressing it, others to come to the house and get
some flour, peas, salt, etc., and go immediately back and
feast his friends, lest they form an unfavorable opinion of us
here. I need not say the summons was obeyed, and Caleb
the happiest man b the world. Now the rigid muscles of
the stranger chiefs began to relax ; b short, all distrust was
soon lost, and as they were about leaving for Caleb's camp,
they found themselves constrained to inform me that they

236 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
came over with very different feelings from what they were
now leaving us with, and were very glad they had listened
to Caleb's advice, and called upon me. Professing to be
very much engaged at the moment, I told them to go and
dine, and at evening, or early the following morning, I would
come with my friend, Mr. Applegate, and make them a call.
They feasted to the full, and I found them in fine humor,
and in a better condition to smoke than fight. After some
easual conversation, I asked them how they would like to
enter bto the civil compact ; and, whilst they were discus
sing the subject, this Indian — Cockstock — came first into my
presence, Well armed, and appeared cold and distant, thongh
I had no suspicion of his bebg the character who had so
lately broken to pieces the windows in my house and office.
They had no scruples b saybg they were entirely willing,
and should be pleased on their part to enter upon the same
terms as others* but did not know how it might be regarded by
the residue of their respective tribes. They engaged to meet
me on the 15th of March, with the residue of their people, and
use their bfluence to bring about the desirable object
The party left the same day, apparently in a cheerful mood,
passed over the prairie sbgbg, talking, and laughmg mer
rily. As a part, however, were passbg their horses over a
difficult stream, the other part fell upon and massacred them
in a most shocking manner, this villainous Cockstock actbg
a conspicuous part in the bloody affray.
I repaired to the spot without delay, as the whites were
much excited, and wished to pursue and hang every one of
them. I learned there had been unsettled feuds of long
standing, and that in like manner, ten months previously,
three unfortunate wretches had shot down a fellow traveller.
On conveying this information to the citizens, all I believe

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 23tf
were satisfied to stay at home, and remain quiet for the pres
ent. Thus much for this Indian affair, which, ray interpreter
having arrived, I have settled to-day with the Dalles Indians
most satisfactorily. As was to be expected, they wished
presents for the death of their brother. I prevailed on all
to be seated, and then explained the whole case slowly and
clearly to their understanding. I told them we had lost two
valuable innocent men, and they but one ; and should our
people learn that I had given them presents, without their
giving me two blankets for one, they must expect nothing
but the hottest displeasure from the whites. After much
deliberatbn among themselves, they with one voice conclu
ded to leave the whok? matter to my discretion.
I at once decided to give the poor Indian widow two
blankets, a dress, and handkerchief, believing the moral in
fluence better than to make presents to the chief or tribe,
and to receive nothing at their hands. To this proposi ion
they most cheerfully consented, and have now left, having
asked for and obtained from me a written certificate, stating
that the matter had all been amicably settled. It is to be
hoped that the matter will here end, though that is by no
means certain, as at present there are so many sources of un
easiness and discontent between the parties.
As I said before, I believe it morally impossible for us to
remain at peace in Oregon, for any considerable time, with
out the protection of vigorous civil or military law. For
myself, I am most awkwardly situated ; so much so, indeed,
that I had seriously anticipated leaving this spring ; but the
late successful contest against the introduction of ardent
spirits, in connexion with the excitement by reason of the
unhappy disaster at the falls of the Willamette, together

238 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
with the fact of too many of our people bebg so extremely
excitable on Indian and other affairs relating to the peace
and interest of the colony and country, I have concluded to
remain for the present, in hopes of being soon some way re
lieved. I hope that the draft I have this day drawn in favor
of John McLaughlin will be honored, as otherwise I may be
thrown at once into the greatest difficulties, havbg no other
h ouse in this country where I can draw such articles as I
require for necessary presents to Indians, to defray travellbg
expenses, etc.
I have the honor to remab, with highest respect,
your obedient humble servant,
E. WHITE,
Sub-agent of Indian Affairs.
Hon. J. M. Porter,
Secretary of War.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 239

CHAPTER XXII.
General health, etc. — Winter rains — State of affairs between the whites
and Indians — Chief of the Fallatine plains — Aggression by the Indi
ans — Military assistance called for— Communication of the chief —
Unhandsome and unjust behavior of the Californians — Murder of Eli
jah Hedding — Ellis sent to the whites — Salutary language and inter
view — Happy visit with Ellis — Intended revenge of the aggressed
party — Invitation to the chiefs — Difficulty at fort Vancouver —
Suspension of hostilities — The agents weariness of the unhappy
state of affairs — Dissatisfaction with the government — An unpleas
ant affair settled — The colony — Methodist institute — Circulating
medium needed — Agent's unpleasant position — Number of Indians —
Letter from Mr. McLaughlin and Douglas — Answer from Russell
and Stewart — Letter from Mr. Burnett — New wagon route — Report
of the sub-agent's interpreter — Mr. Lee relative to the Nez Perces —
Letter from Mr. Lovejoy to the secretary of war — A resolution —
Note to Hon. W. Medill. Oregon, Willamette Valley, April 4, 1845.
Sir — Through the politeness of Governor McLaughlin —
the Hudson's Bay express leavbg — via. the mountains — for
Canada to-morrow — I have again the honor and pleasure of
addressing you from this remote portion of earth.
Since my last, of November, 1844, giving an account of
the destruction of thr distillery, the general health, quiet
ness, prosperity, and rapid growth of the colony, together
with the good order and decorum which prevailed through
out at the courts, all has moved forward here as satisfacto
rily as could have been expected.
Starting too late, and the winter rains setting in earlier

240 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
than usual, subjected the emigrants to incredible suffering
and hardships, especially from the Dalles of the Columbia
down to the Willamette valley ; but our early and delight
ful spring is exerting a cheering and most salutary influence
upon their hitherto depressed spirits. They have, bee like,
been hived up in Oregon city during the winter, and are
now swarming to the entire satisfaction of the first occu
pants of the hive ; it not being wide and large enough for
such an unexpected increase. The last emigration, number
ing about a thousand, are generally pleased with the coun
try, and are setting about their spring's work with becom
ing spirit and fortitude.
The Indians of this lower country, whose national honor
and dignity are laid in the dust, are looking upon the rapid
growth apd increased strength of the whites with sorrowful
countenances and sad hearts. The present state of things
between us and them i3 peeulir, critical, unenviable, and dan
gerous, at least so far as peace and property are concerned.
For instance in proof — soon after I sent my despatches,
the chief of the Fallatbe plains, whose orderly conduct and
that of his clan did honor to the Nez Perces laws, and the
engagement we had mutually entered into, called on me, de
siring my offices in procuring the mending of his gun. This
being done, he invited me to come and see him and his peo
ple ; said all was not right at bs lodge ; his tribe was divi
ded, and all was not right ; his influence was waning, and
some of his people were becoming very bitter towards the
Americans. Observing anxiety and mental reservation, I
endeavored to draw out the secret, reminding him of the
frequent communications he had brought me from the Rev.
Messrs. Clarke and Griffin, bearing su.ch satisfactory testi
mony to his. previous qbet, orderly, and proper conduct, etc.,

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 241
but all I could learn was, "tbngs are not right with us, and
we are miserable."
The Camass, their principal dependance for food was
cut off last season by reason of drought ; and the deer are
hunted so much by the late hungry western emigrant rifle
men, that they have become wild, poor, and few in number.
The chief left.
A few days after, I learned they had killed an ox and ate
it, belonging to a neighboring wbte man. The owner was
excited, and applied to one of the executive ; a proclama
tion was issued, the military was called out — if it be lawful
to call it such — and ample preparations made to avenge the
national insult, and seek redress for this astoundbg loss.
The army collected upon the opposite bank of the river, six
miles from the position occupied by the enemy, talked
bravely, long and loud, but the river was a little too high to
cross that day — appointed another, the river bebg lower ;
none of the warriors appeared ; nor could the executive,
simply for the want of a few gallons of alcohol, obtain the
necessary assistance to avenge the horrid wrong, and per
form a brilliant military exploit. The cbef, b his embar
rassment and distress, came to me as usual for sympathy and
succor. My coldness and look of severity — for which heav
en forgive me ! — keenly afflicted him. After a deep sigh
and painfb pause, pecbiar to a wounded or injured Indian,
he slowly rose, gently smiting upon his breast, and said, " Dr.
White, I am a true man, and carry an honest heart. Do you
remember my combg to get my gun mended last fall ? Do
you remember my words, that all was not right with our
people, and my bviting you to come and see us ? We had
just before blled that old ox, and was then eatbg it." I en
quired, had you anything to do with it personally ? " Yes
16

242 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
— I helped to kill it, and with my family, took and ate one-
half of the annimal. You saw the condition of my gun —
our provisions were out ; I and others had hunted for two
days — our hunger was great. We held a council, and, ho
ping for success, I promised on condition nothing was caught
till the setting of another sun, we would kill the first animal
we met.
I travelled far, and wearied myself till evening ; shot of
ten, but killed nothing. We met this poor old ox, which
our people would scorn to kill or eat except in cases of ex
treme hunger ; my word was passed to my people ; I could
not go back from my word ; I helped to kill and butcher the
ox, and joined in eatbg him, and now my peace is gone. I
am ashamed to see a white man's face — they look cold on
me and shake the head ; I cannot bear it ; I cannot live so ;
I come to you to help me, for I am told they want to Mil
me. I do not want such feelings to exist ; nor do I want to
be huntedsas a bear or wild beast for slaughter. I stand
here a wisher of peace, willing to have you dictate the terms;
but wish to have it remembered that we were distressed with
hunger." "Suppose," said I, "the owner should require
your rifle and four horses ?" " You stand to judge between
us, and I shall abide your decision." " But you have bro
ken your engagement and forfeited confidence, and I fear it
cannot be settled, as some think you have killed before."
" Doctor White, I am a true man, and lie not. I nor my
people, cannot be so accused justly ; this is bjurious ; none
can meet my face and say it." I wrote, through him to the
owner, praying, as it was the first offence so far as we had
the least evidence, and especially in view of our critical situ
ation, and bs general good behavior, that he would fully
indemnify bmself; and then, b view of what I knew of the

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 243
condition of his gun, and the probability that it was induced
by hunger, to settle it ; and requested him to assure the
chief that he was convinced from my letter and all the cir
cumstances, in connexion with his past good conduct, that
it must have been brought about by hunger.
The advice was rejected, as the laws of the organization
now had cognizance of the offence, and he wished to see
them faithfbly enforced. Public opbion became divided,
and no judicial expression being made, and the poor chief
becombg excessively tired of being held by public opbion
in durance vile, came to see me a second time. I wrote
again, and learned it was settled by the ehief and his people
paying his rifle and eight horses. If this be correct — as I
fear it is — I abombate the act, and dread its prejudicial
influence. Week before last a hungry and mischievous lodge killed a
cow. They were pursued by a party of whites, overtaken,
and, in attempting to take them the Indians fired upon the
whites, killed one horse, and wounded another. The fire
was returned, one Indian killed, and a second wounded.
Thus ended this affair, which created very little excitement
among whites or Indians.
The most pabfb circumstance that has occurred lately,
transpired last fall at California. The Keyuse, Wallawallas,
and some of the chiefs of the Spokans, entered upon the
hazardous, but grand and important enterprise of gobg di
rectly through the Indian country to California, with a view
of exchanging their beaver, deer, and elk skbs, together with
their surplus of horses for neat stock. As they had to pass
through an extensive country, inhabited by the savage and
warlike Clamets and Chestes, where Smith, Turner, and so
many other white parties had been defeated, we are at a loss

244, TEW TEAKS IN OTTZGONV
to conclude whether their valor is more to be corn-mended
than the rashness of their stupendous enterprise to be censu
red. They were well mounted and equipped ; the chiefs-
dad b English costume, and the residue attired in dressed
skins, moulded according to their several tastes. The jour
ney of seven or eight hundred miles, after some fighting,
watching, and much fatigue, was accomplished, and their
numbers not lessened.
Taking, their own statement, their reception was cordial,
and! the impression made upon the whites by these distant
and half-civilized people, upon an errand so commendable,
was most favorable. The treating and salutations being
oyer, the trade commenced in good faith, and to mutual sat
isfaction- All moved on well, till, on an excursion to pro
cure elk and deer skins, they met a maraudbg band of
mountain free-booters, fought them, and, bebg victorious,
took a prize of twenty-two horses, all previously stolen from
the whites.
On returning to the settlements, the Spaniards laid claim
tp the animals. The ehiefs remonstrated, and said, agreea
bly to their customs, the horses were theirs. The Spaniards
explained their laws, and showed the animals not to be ven
ted, i. e., bearing a transfer mark, and told the Indians they
must give them to the rightful owners, as all Americans and
others did. The Indians seemed grieved, and rather incen
sed ; sbd in their country six nations of people were on terms
of, amity, and that in case any one of these six nations stole a
hjorse, the tribe was responsible for the safe delivery of that
wuuai to the rightful owner ; but in case the Blackfeet or
Other formidable enemy steal or capture, the property is
supposed lost, without redemption; and as we have captured
tbese horses at the hazard of our lives, from your long open-

TSN YEARS IN OREGON. 245
ly declared enemies, we thbk they ought in justice to be
ours. The Spaniards condescended to offer ten cows for the
redemption of the horses ; the chief not replying five more
were added ; he still remabbg moody, and without replying,
the negotiation unhappily broke off. A day or two after, an
American, seeing his mule among the number captured, told
the Indians it was his mule, and have it he would. Will
you, said a young chief by the name of Elijah Heading ; and
stepping into the lodge, immediately loaded his rifle, came
out and observed significantly, go now and take your mule.
The American, much alarmed, remarked, I hope you are
not going to kill me. No ! I am gobg to shoot yonder
eagle — perched upon a neighboring oak. Not liking the
appearance, the man left without attemptbg to obtain his
mule. A day or two after the Indians left their encamp
ment and walked down to the fort of Captain Suter to
chureh ; and from the best bformation we have obtab^d—
all being ex parte — the following appears to be near the
truth :
After service, Elijah was bvited bto another apartment, ta
king with him his uncle, a brave and sensible cbef of the age
of fiveand-forty ; while there, in an unarmed and defenceless
condition, they commenced menacbg him for things alleg
ed against the river Indians of this upper country, b which
none of them had any participation ; called them mdiscrinii-
nately dogs, thieves, &c, &c. Tbs American then observed,
Yesterday you were going to kill me — now you must die —
drawing a pistol. Elijah, who had been five or six years at
the Methodist mission, and had learned to read, write, and
speak English respectably, said deliberately — let me pray a
little first ; and kneelbg down, at once commenced ; and
while invoking the divbe mercy, was shot through the heart

246 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
or vitals dead upon the spot. Every measure, as the Indi
ans say, was taken to cut them all off by Spaniards, who
brought out the cannon, with other fire arms, and hotly pur
sued them, and tried to prevent their escape by checking
and interrupting their passage across the ferries, &c. &c.
But at length they all arrived safely, after mabfest suffering,
leaving the herds they had paid for in California.
They met three Americans on the way as they left the Calif or-
ba settlements and had them in their power ; but instead of
revenging the death of Elijah, they mounted each on a horse
of their own, and sent them in, telling them to go to the
fort and acquaint the people that, as christians, they could
not Mil innocent white people, who were in their power and
lodge. Taking for truth an Indian report, this horrible affair cre
ates considerable excitement, and there is some danger of its
disturbing the friendly relation that has hitherto existed be
tween us here, and all those formidable tribes^n the regbn of
Wallawalla and Snake rivers. They had no sooner arrived
than Ellis, my interpreter, the high chief of the Nez Perces,
was deputed to come down and learn our opinion regard
ing the affair. They could not have sent a better agent, the
whites all giving him a handsome and cordial reception.
From Wallawalla he accompabed Mr. Grant, the chief tra
der at Fort Hall, down to Vancouver. He called on Dr.
McLaughbi, whose great experience and address were ser
viceable. He spoke touchingly of the violent death of his
own son upon the northwest coast, and left the impression
that he could not avoid sympathising with the father and
friends of the young chief. Mr. Douglas, too, an early friend,
patron, and favorite of Ellis, aided much in convincing him
that all the good and virtuous could not avoid the most pab-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 247
ful regrets at so melancholy a circumstance, which must have
occurred by reason of the difference b their customs or laws;
imperfectly understanding each other, or from some, as he
would charitably hope, excusable circumstance.
Under the influence of this salutary language and inter
view, Ellis arrived at my residence, in Willamette, about the
first instant, having a short time before, got a hasty commu
mcation, written in excitement, from Dr. Whitman, who was
under serious apprehensions that it might be avenged upon
some of the whites of the upper country. Be assured I was
happy to see this, my most faithfb friend and interpreter.
Sir, pardon me for saybg — isolated as we are here, agitated
as we have a thousand times been, by faithless savages, and
still more faithless whites, responsible, yet powerless and
defenceless in our unsettled state of things — to meet with
this honest man, this real friend, though an Indian, gave me
hearty pleasure.
His thorough education at Red river, moulded him into
more of the white man than Indian. His prudence and good
management with his tribe sanctioned the choice that had
been made, and all the whites spoke handsomely of his Mnd
offices and obliging deportment, whilst emigrating through
his country. Being satisfied of the safety and policy, I feast
ed him well, and took at once unobserved measures to have
him invited to every respectable place abroad, where the la
dies and gentlemen received him so cordially, and feasted
him so richly and delicately, that he almost forgot the object
of his embassy, and, I verily believe, thought extremely
highly of the whites of Willamette, however he might have
thought of the conduct of the Californians.
Bebg anxious to make this visit useful to him and his
people, as well as pleasant, after spendbg a few days in vis-

248 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
iting the schools, as well as the principal inhabitants and
places of bterest, I showed him my little library, told him
to make himself at home ; put on my farmer's garb, and
commenced working on my plantation. He soon came out,
accompanied by a wealthy cousin, and begged for tools to
assist me. I loaned them, and found he was much at home
in their use. He spent with me a sufficient length of time
to convince me of the truth reported concerbng his cheer
fulness in labor, as well as his knowledge, application, and
assidbty b business. He spoke sensibly of the advantages
of industry, and the astonishbg change that had been effect
ed among his people, by the cultivation of the soil ; assured
me that every family or lodge now raised an abundance for
home consumption, besides having considerable quantities to
barter with the whites. He says he raised himself, the past
season, six hundred bushels of pease, with a fine crop of
wheat, potatoes, beans, &c. &c. ; spoke properly of its moral
and social effects. Wars were no longer talked of, and the
chase was nearly abandoned ; the book and the Bible consu
med their leisure moments. Polygamy, once so common,
except in two solitary cases, was done away, and not a lodge
of my people but observe the Sabbath, and regularly attend
morning and evening devotion. All this was only corrobo
rative of what I had previously heard from other sources.
He spent two days with me, in the most cheerful, agreeable,
and profitable manner, and at the close I felt myself the
better and happier for the vist ; nor did I marvel that his
influence was increasing and the prospects of his people
brightebng. Pardon me ; for, in thbMng of his visit and dwelling upon
his excellencies, I had like to have forgotten his agency.
Learning from Dr. Whitman, who resides in their midst, how

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 249
much they were all excited by reason of the treacherous and
violent death of this educated and accomplished young chief,
and perhaps more especially by the loss they had sustained;
and then, after suffering so many hardships, and encounter
ing so many dangers, losing the whole — I apprehended there
might be much difficulty in adjusting it, particularly as they
lay much stress upon the restless, disaffected scamps late
from Willamette to California, loading them with the vile ep
ithets of " dogs," " thieves," &c. &c, from which they be
lieved, or affected to, that the slanderous reports of our cit
izens caused all their loss and disasters, and therefore held
us responsible. He assured me that the Wallawallas, Key-
use, Nez Perces, Spokans, Ponderays, and Snakes, were all
on terms of amity, and that a portion of the aggrieved party
were for raising about two thousand warriors of these formi
dable tribes, and march to California at once, and nobly re
venge themselves on the inhabitants by capture and plunder,
enrich themselves upon the spoils ; others, not indisposed to
the enterprise, wished first to learn how it would be regard
ed here, and whether we would remain neutral in the affair.
A third party were for holding us responsible, as Elijah was
killed by an American, and the Americans bcensed the
Spaniards. Ellis reminded me at the same time of the ill
success the chiefs met with in trading off their ten dollar
drafts for herds, with the emigrants ; which drafts I had sent
up by Mr. Lee, my interpreter, to secure peace and safety
while the emigrants were passing through their country ;
the year before so many having been pillaged and robbed
of their effects, through the inattention of the chiefs.
Sir, how this affair will end, is difficult to conjecture ; the
general impression is, that it will lead to the most disastrous
consequences to the Califomians themselves, or to the colony

250 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
of the Willamette valley. My principal fear is, that it will
result in so much jealousy, prejudice and disaffection, as to
divert thair minds from the pursuit of knowledge, agriculture,
and the means of civilization, which they have been for such
a length of time so laudably engaged in obtaining.
Should tbs be the case with these numerous brave, and
formidable tribes, the results to them, and to us, would be
indeed most calamitous. To prevent such a result I wrote,
through Ellis, along, cordial, and rather sympathising letter
to the chiefs of these tribes, assuring them that I should at
once write to the governor of California, to captain Suter,
and to our great chiefs, respecting this matter. With a view
to divert attention, and promote good feeling, I invited all the
chiefs to come down in the fall, before the arrival of the em
igrants, b company with Dr. Whitman and Mr. Spalding,
and confer with me upon this subject ; at the same time, as
they had been so unfortunate, to bring along their ten dollar
drafts, and exchange them with me for a cow and calf, each
out of my own herds. I likewise wrote them, that on con
dition they would defer going to California till the spring of
1847, and each chief assist me to the amount of two bea
ver skbs, to get a good manual labor literary bstitution es
tablished for the English education of their sons and daugh
ters — a subject they feel the deepest interest' in — I would
use every measure to get the unhappy affair adjusted ; and,
as a token of my regard for them, wobd, from my private
funds, give the chiefs five hundred dollars, to assist them b
purchasing young cows in California. I likewise proffered,
as they are so eager, for it, to start the English school next
fall, by givbg them the services of Mr. Lee, my interpreter,
for four months, commencing in November next.
Ellis more than properly appreciated my motives and prof-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 251
fers, and said he was of the full belief that the chiefs would
accede to my proposition; spoke of the importance of the
English school, and of the strong and general desire to ob
tain it. He left b high hopes of a continuance of peace
and onward prosperity to bs people.
A few days later brought me into another excitement and
difficulty, at Vancouver. Two young men, named in Mc
Laughlin's communication to this government — a copy of
which, marked A, together with a reply, accompanied these
despatches — crossed the Columbia river, and, unobserved, in
the midst of a little thicket somethbg over half a mile from
fort Vancouver, felled some timber — threw up a few logs b
the shape of a hut, intending soon to fimsh it — put up a pa
per upon a contiguous tree, statbg that they had commen
ced and btended to establish a claim agreeably with 
here the note ended. Some one about the establishment, ob
serving the paper and commencement of the hut, reported
it to the governor, who sent down at once and had all the
timber removed from the vicbity ; the tree felled, and that,
with the paper likewise, removed. They had hardly cleared
the ground when the claimants arrived with a surveyor, and
commenced surveying off a section of land, embracing the
post first commenced upon. They were enquired of, at the
instance of Gov. McLaughlin, as to their object and inten
tions. They at once laid down the chain, dropt all business,
and walked up to the fort. Several respectable and influen
tial citizens happened to be present on business, who, with
myself, were respectfully- invited to hear the discussion.
Williamson, a modest and respectable young man, de
meaned himself with propriety ; but Alderman, his asso
ciate, a boisterous, hair-brained young fellow, caused me —
as others do — to blush for American honor. His language

252 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
was most severe, and, but for the sake of the country's quiet,
could not have been endured ; the governor and Mr. Doug
lass displaying their usual calmness and forbearance. I
heard the discussion for two hours ; and, becoming satisfied
that no possible good could grow out of it, remarked that
with the cheerful consent of both parties I would give my
sense of the matter.
Each readily consenting, I thought best to come up on the
blbd side of Alderman ; treated his measures with less severi
ty, and himself with more consideration and respect, than he
anticipated ; then spoke of Greenough's construction of the
treaty between the two governments — which I happened to
have with me — of the immense district of country depend
ant upon this establishment for supplies b beef, pork, etc.,
and as evidence that they had no more land contiguous than
was necessary for their purposes, spoke of the number of
cattle and other stock that had died from starvation during
the last winter ; dwelt upon the importance of union and
good feeling among all the whites, surrounded as we were
by savages, in our weak and defenceless conditon, and of
the propriety of establishbg correct precedents in our un
settled state, regardbg land claims ; and, without advising
particularly either party, took my seat.
Williamson and Alderman soon manifested a desire for a
private interview, which resulted in a suspension of hostil-
ties for the present, and probably an abandonment of the
claim. Now, my dear sir, suffer me to write a few things con
cerning this country, which seem to me strongly to demand
the speedy attention of the members of our government.
Take fifty men from the colony, of the most intelligence,
firmness, and prudence, and anarchy and confusion follow.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 253
Suffer a free introduction of ardent spirits, and desolation,
horror, dismay, and bloodshed ensue. Never were a people
more illy prepared for self-government, nor more unfavora
bly circumstanced to succeed — aside from the single fact of
the absence of intoxicating drinks.
Sir, too great a portion of our population comes from the
western auburds of civilization, for one moment's safety to
us in our present condition. I know not but I have as much
patience as most men, but am heartily tired of this state of
thmgs. Nor wobd I run the risk again, by land and water,
from whites and savages, for the safety and quietness of the
colony and country, for all the wealth of earth. I have not
shrunk from toil, danger, nor hardships, and though alone?
handed and unsustabed, black-balled and traduced, aston
ishing to say, my measures have as yet succeeded. I thbk
of the past with a clear conscience, yet at present, at peace
as we are, I look upon our critical condition with an anxious,
aching heart, feeling that the members of our government
err exceedingly towards their citizens b Oregon.
As I have so often said of this lower country, with its
beauty, excellence of soil, and mildness of climate, it might
be rendered the paradise of earth ; but, sir, every thing is
jeoparded by the tardbess of our government measures ;
not only the poor, injured natives, but the whites generally,
have become wearied to impatience in waiting for an expres
sion from our government, and disaffection, with a want of
confidence, is taking the place of previous warm feeling and
strong attachment.
I regret this exceedbgly, but feel it my duty to speak out
in truth and distinctness on this important pobt. I have
said and done what I could to keep up confidence and hope ;
but already demagogues are harangubg in favor of bde-

254 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
pendence, and using the most disparaging language regard
ing the measures of our government as a reason for action.
These are but the beginnings, and, though I am glad to say
such sentiments do not generally obtain, yet they are more
favorably listened to this year than last ; their natural results
and practical tendency you will readily perceive.
Your annual report of 1843 reached me only a few days
since, having been broken open on the way, then put
bto the hands of Indians, and forwarded to me through that
channel. And while I have to regret never having received
any thing from your pen, be assured I am not bsensible to
the honor done me, in speaking as you did of my report,
through yours of 1843 to the secretary of war. I feel any
kind expression from home the more sensibly, from the tor
rent of opposition I have been forced to meet and contend
with here ; but I am happy to observe that my bfluence is
increasing, and my measures are being better understood and
appreciated. Influence here is most important ; I felt this strikingly a
few weeks since. Three among the most correct and sensi
ble men of the colony formed a co-partnership to enter largely
upon the brewery business. They had already taken some
steps ; and as the business promised to be lucrative, the prob
abilities were against me in attempting to dissuade them
from their purpose. I visited them, labored calmly, honest
ly, and faithfbly, and felt the difference of dealing or talk
ing with men of sense and principle, over many with whom
I have to do in Oregon.
The interview broke up most agreeably, not an unpleasant
sentence having passed ; the gentlemen engaging to give me
their decision very soon. This was communicated to me two
days after, in a delicate and handsome manner, which was

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 255
entirely to my wishes, the business being altogether aban
doned. This was most gratifying to me, as from such a
quarter should beer be introduced, it would be impossible for
us to prevent the btroduction of stronger drink into the col
ony and country, which, of all others, is most illy prepared
to receive it.
The colony, now numbering about four thousand, is b a
most flourishing state, and I am doubtful if any like number
are more pleased or better contented in our wide domain.
The schools of the country during the last winter have been
well sustained ; I have contributed to each, as was necessa
ry, from ten to fifteen dollars, to pay rents, etc., and to en
courage them forward in their laudable struggle to educate
their rising families.
I attended the examination of the Methodist institute
school a few weeks since, and was most agreeably impressed
regarding the institution.
The pleasant deportment and improved manners of the
young ladies and gentlemen of the school, saybg nothing of
their astonishing advancement b the different departments
of literature, was a cause of the highest gratification. I
have nowhere attended an exambation, tabng all things bto
the account, more creditable to the principal or bstitution.
I have called for a report, but am sorry it has not yet come
to hand.
The branches taught are rhetoric, grammar, geography,
arithmetic, readbg, writing, and spelling. The most en
lightened and best disposed are using their influence to
strengthen the organization, and perfect the laws of the col
ony. Many are favorable to the adoption of a constitution,
by callbg a convention for that purpose the present season.
Tbs being the most enlightened sense, and meeting with lit-

256 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
tie opposition, I am of the opinion that it will prevail.
Shobd this be effected, the constitution, accompanied with'
a petition, will probably be forwarded by a delegate from
this country to Washbgton city the coming winter. As the
friends to the constitution generally wish best to the coun
try, and desire to have every thing so conducted as not to
embarrass, but meet with acceptance at home, I am solicited
to be said delegate, and represent the wants of Oregon. A
circulating medium is greatly needed ; however, the enter
prise and onward march of this people cannot easily be re
pressed. Through the auspices of the Hudson's Bay Com
pany almost every man, requesting and needing it, is helped
to sufficient means to commence on his section of land ; and,
certainly, by far the greater number give evidence of well-
placed confidence. The prairies are dotted over with hou
ses, and the frbtfb fields are spreading out widely all around
us. Moral and religious influence, I regret to say, is wa-
nbg ; yet it is gratifying to observe an bcreasing interest
upon the subject of schools and education ; and I am happy
to say we have now eleven schools this side of the moun
tains, most of them small, to be sure, but they are exertbg
a salutary and beneficial influence.
Pardon the length and want of interest of my report.
Did not duty hold me here, or had I funds appropriated to
travel abroad to explore this delightfb region of surround
ing country, from what I learn of vague reports, I have lit
tle doubt but much interesting, curious and important infor
mation might be collected. But here I am, doomed to sit,
watch, and sometimes almost fight for peace between whites
and Indians — the question of right and wrong becoming
more and more complicated continually ; while here, allow
me to say, the settling these difficulties necessarily costs me

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 257
not a little. I believe most fully, b making a settlement
with an Indian or tribe, to have it a happy, earnest and hearty
one ; and, in order to affect this, they reqbre a present as a
seal. And, sir, this is my principal means of usefulness or
influenc over these poor, and, b many instances, injured na
tives. Then: seeming confidence and regard makes one the
more patient and cheerful in doing for them ; nor can I com
plain, as so many east of the mountains have been obliged
to, of violated faith on the part of the Indians. From all I
can learn, much of which little reliance is to be placed, there
appears to be about twenty-seven thousand Indians b the
territory, allowing it to extend to 54° 40' north latitude.
Mr. Lee's — my bterpreter — report accompanying this,
you will observe. I would have accompabed bm but for
the season of the year, and the prevalence of the dysen
tery, which is sweeping off the natives of this lower coun
try. This gave rise to Dr. Long's bill, which, I hope, will
be honored, as it was a work of humanity as well as policy.
I directed it, as I could not possibly attend to those and
these at the same time, there being about forty miles be
tween us.
I hope, Providence permitting, to have the pleasure of
seeing you and the other gentlemen of the departments, at
Washington, in a few weeks, or months at longest, after tbs
reaches, and of explaining my accounts. and reasons for ex
penditures. I had not expected to draft on the department this
spring ; but there was no other means of settlbg with
Gov. McLaughlin, for the want of a circulating medium
through which to operate.
Enclosed is a letter from Peter H. Burnett, Esq., which
17

258 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
I proposed forwarding in my last despatches, but received
too late for transmission.
With great respect, I am, dear sir,
your most humble and obedient servant,
ELIJAH WHITE,
Sub-agent Indian Affairs, W. R. M.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 259

CHAPTER XXIII.
Thrilling story — A slave slain and buried with his master — Strange
custom — Inducements to the doctor to take the journey home — En
deavors to discover a new route through the Cascade mountains-
Sealing a mountain — Vegetation — Snows — Fine view — Masses of
rocks — Mt. Hood — Disheartened — Return to the base of the moun
tain — Molalah Indians — Disappointment — Wheat — Petrified ash 
Advantages for settling — Deer and elk — Wild cat — New determina
tion — Fine country — Mounds — Mt. Spencer — Ascent laborious 
Shrubs — Incident — Stupendous view — Descent.
During the year 1844, Mr. Perkins arrived in the colony,
bringing with him a boy whom he had released from the
dead-house at Wiscopum. He was a bright looking little
fellow, intelligent and active, an object of universal bterest
and attraction, and the account of his late dismal nocturnal
imprisonment, created mbgled feelings of pity, horror, and
disgust. Of his earliest history they could learn nothbg,
except that, at five or six years of" age, he was captured
from his own tribe, the Chestes, by the Clamuts. It seems
that the men of the tribe were hunting, and the women ta
king their offspring with them, went out into the woods and
prairies to pick berries, when their enemies found and killed
a portion of them, taking the boy away bto slavery. He
was afterwards sold to the chief of the Wascopums, to be
the compabon of his own son, about the same age, and soon
endeared himself in a thousand childish ways to the whole
family. The boys were much attached ; whatever were the
amusements of the young cbef, his fellow participated. He

260 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
received a part of his feathers, shells, and little presents.
Some time after this, Mr. Perkins arrived among them, and
a great reformation commenced in this as well as adjacent
tribes. The sachem's whole tribe were converted, much to
his chagrin and anger. He absolutely resisted whatever in
fluence of the spirit which he might have felt, and reproach
ed his tribe in bitter terms for their recreancy. He some
times, with flashing eye and angry voice, commanded them
to abandon their old-womanish notions ; and at others, with
the winning tones, and touchbg words, which the Indian
can so well adopt, attempted to persuade them to return to
the religion of their noble ancestors. But the work was no
arrested tilLr-as it was computed — nearly a thousand of
these benighted beings were converted. The missionaries
were very solicitous about the rebellious chief, mournbg his
obstinacy, and fearing that some awful calamity would fall
upon him, and Mr. PerMns with untiring zeal, labored to
place before him the consequences which might follow if he
persevered. But he turned a deaf, ear, saying, " he feared
not th§ power, nor cared for the vengeance of the white man's
God." , The event too truly showed that the predictions
were verified, for two years had hardly rolled away, before
disease and death made frightful havoc b his family. His
brother died ; his wife and cbldren one after another wasted
and vanished from his sight, wringing his proud heart with
anguish. •, At length his darling, only son was stricken down.
Every means known to their jugglery and superstition were
employed,, but it soon became apparent that he was foUow
bg his mother and sisters. The afflicted father then has
tened to the man of God for help* begging anxiously, ab
jectly, for restoratives for his poor boy. Medicine was given
him, and. with flying steps, and pantbg chest, he sped to his

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 261
gloomy, solitary home. He rushed to the mat, and forcing
open the lips of the sufferer, placed the medicine upon the
already palsied tongue. It was unavailing ; the child cobd
not swallow ; the pure gem was stolen from the frail casket,
the young spirit had fled. I cannot describe the stern sire's
awful grief, hours and days of wordless, noiseless angbsh,
for no man mourns as does the Indian, who has no certain
knowledge of again meeting the beloved one. Especially
for a son does the warrior lament, and a warrior was tbs
father ; in him he had hoped to see the brave of his younger
days, loved and admired by the tribe, his praises chaunted
b the war song by the men, and sung in love notes by the
maidens. At length by meaning looks and gestures rather
than words, it was found that the chief had determbed that
the deceased boy's friend, who had been his companion in
hunting the rabit, snaring the pheasant, and fishing in the
streams, was to be his compabon to the spirit land ; his son
should not be deprived of his associate in the strange world
to which he had gone ; that associate should perish by the
hand of his father, and be conveyed with him to the dead-
house. This receptacle was built on a long black rock in the
centre of the Columbia river, around which, being so near
the falls, the current was amazingly rapid. It was thirty
feet b length, and perhaps half that b breadth, completely
enclosed and sodded, except at one end where was a narrow
aperture just sufficient to carry a corpse through. The coun
cil overruled, and little George, instead of bebg slain was
conveyed, living, to the dead-house about sunset. The dead
were piled on each side, leaving a narrow aisle between, and
on one of these was placed the deceased boy, and bound
tightly till the purple, quivering flesh puffed above the strong
bark cords ; that he might die very soon, the living was pla-

262 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
ced by his side, his face to his, till the very lips met, and ex
tended along limb to limb, and foot to foot, and nestled down
into his couch of rottenness, to impede his breathing as far
as possible, and smother his cries. And so they loft him,
unheeding his piteous prayers, although his shrieks and
screams were so agonizing that a tear stood in the eye of
even his master, and he closed his ears that he might shut
out these fearful sounds. They left the child surrounded
with heaps of hideous, festerbg dead ; the cold, clammy
reptile crawling over his quaking flesh, as it toiled to and fro
in its feast of loathsomeness, choking with the hot, fulsome,
putrid vapors of his ghostly bed. That night the intelli
gence reached Mr. and Mrs. Perkins, and till morning they
were obliged to endure the agony, for it was nothing else,
of imagibng the sufferings of the victim, for it would have
been worse than presumption to attempt his rescue, for the
night was intensely dark, and in the day time the rock was
extremely difficult of access. At the dawn of day, Mrs.
Perkins looking almost like a corpse, they left their home
and reached the rock, some three miles distant, before sun
rise. Mr. Perkins forced open the tomb, and after waiting
till the steambg, death-fumes had partially escaped, they
entered and searched for the boy. They found him stretch
ed on the ground, for in his struggles he had kicked himself
off the pile of dead, and now lay perfectly insensible and al
most breathless. They conveyed him to the open air, which
with all their anxious efforts, for a long time failed to revive
him. He at last gasped convulsively, but his senses for
some time refused to communicate to his bewildered brain,
the reality. Imagining he was yet in that horrid cell, he
was mad with frantic terror. He strained his blood-shot
eyes in their sockets, threw about his poor freed limbs,

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 263
screamed, and raved of the sights he had seen, and voices
of the dead he had heard whispering in his ears, and their
oold, bony hands griping his throat ; in short, every fright
ful thbg, the fancy of a child is so frbtful in conjuring.
His hearers cobd not avoid shuddering. But when he
became conscious of his situation, it was affecting to witness
his transports. He clasped his mutilated arms around Mrs.
P.'s neck, kissed her passionately, and caressed her face and
hair with his swollen hands, and called her by the most en
dearing names, and her tears fell upon his-burnbgbrow, as
she held him in her arms, his head pressed agabst her cheek.
This seems to contradict the received assertion of some, that
the Indian is created without gratitude, but if this boy's
feelings were not those of gratitude, it was somethbg of a
still more holy and elevated nature. When Dr. White saw
him, three and even six months after, his limbs yet showed
the traces of his torture, for where the ligatures had been
drawn the tightest the wounds were yet raw and unhealed,
causing considerable suffering.
Mr. Shortess, a member of the legislature, and a respec
table gentleman, on his way to visit the Willamette' settle
ment, some sixty miles below fort Vancouver, hearbg a very
singular wailing on shore, put in. He found considerable
of an encampment of Indians. He was received b perfect
silence, some sitting and others standing about, seeming
scarcely to notice the intruder except by a simple raising of
their dark eyes. At length seeing one of them, a man, in
a state of extraordinary restlessness, though uttering no
sound, he ventured to break the stillness by inqbring the
cause. A chief informed him that the man was a slave, his
master had lately died, and that he was doomed to death,
and to be buried with him. Shortess was startled, and used

264 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
every measure, and persuasion in his power, to save the poor
wretch from his terrible destiny, but in vain, for he was either
answered by a moody silence, or a few brief words of dis
approval, and was at last obliged, reluctantly, to leave, or
witness the fearful ceremony, receiving no encouragement
whatever that it was possible to avert the fate of the poor
slave. Were such revolting customs done away among the
tribes, the whites would lose half the disgust and terror with
which they now regard many of them.
Among the many strange, and sometimes, brutal practi
ces, is one among the north-west coast savages, of the great
man of the tribe biting the arms of the chief by way of
favor. This occurs once a year, during an annual festival, at
which their religious ceremonies are commingled. Near the
close, the lodges of the warriors being contiguous to the high
chief's, at a given signal he suddenly emerges from his dom-
icil, abruptly runbng to the lodge of his first favorite,
rudely tears away a portion of the roof, and plunges through
it instead of entering at the door. The inmate then qbckly
throws up his skin robe, and undergoes the biting process,
the inflictor beginning by inserting his teeth at the wrist,
and proceedbg upward to the shoulder, in proportion to the
love he bears the owner of the tortured limb. This is car
ried on from lodge to lodge of each chief, as he is beloved,
receiving these marks of affection, some only half way to the
elbow, others to the elbow itself, and shoulder. The flesh is
bitten severely, fairly chewed to the bone, so that it peels
and drops off, but this is disregarded, the most badly mas
ticated bebg very proud and exhibitbg the limb to his fel
lows in great triumph.
The Crows, the most daring and enterprising tribe of the
mountabs, have a custom more singular, if possible than the

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 265
above. At the loss of a friend, they bite off one jobt of a
finger. This is sometimes continued till the members are
nearly, and often quite demolished.
The doctor was now solicited to return to the United
States by the legislative body of Oregon, which was sittbg
at the commencement of Mr. Polk's presidential campaign,
as the most fitting person to represent the wants and condi
tion of the people. He also bore the first memorial and pe
tition of such a body, of the territory — though several had
been sent out by the citizens — praybg the government to
extend jurisdiction over the country.
He started about the 12th of Jby, with a party of eight
men, determined to find a road through the Cascade moun
tains to the states, which should be more advantageous than
the old one, to future immigrants. Joseph Gale, an old
mountaineer, Batteus Du Guerre, Joseph Charles Saxton,
Orus Brown, Moses Homes and John Edmunds, with a couple
others, composed the little force. They launched out on the
plains ban eastern direction, till they reached the foot of the
mountains. The morbng after their first encampment, they
penetrated into an openbg from wbch issued a stream,
which they traced some eighteen. miles ; after which they
began in a winding direction, to scale the rugged sides of
the mountab. * As they progressed, they found the ascent
more rapid, and with the exception of a few stinted straw
berry blossoms, though it was the middle of July, vegega-
tion scanty, and the way much impeded by rocks, and fallen
-timber, till at length it was with great difficulty that their
horses could get forward, even by leadbg. Soon there were
patches of snow, and a half hour more laborious travelling
brought them to perpetual snows, and spread out before their

266 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
gaze, as upon a vast sheet, the lovely valley of the Willa
mette. On every hand were piled huge masses of rocks, without
vegetation sufficient to feed a bird. For miles they could see
nothing but apparent rocks, and before them Mt. Hood tow
ering proudly some thousand feet above them. This was too
appalling to encounter, and in a most disheartened mood,
they turned to retrace their steps to the Willamette valley ;
so much labor lost.
They hastened back to the gap, and turbng to the left,
the doctor determbed to follow the base of the mountain,
watching every bdication, that they might make a new trial.
They had gone but a short distance, when they fell in
with a lodge of Molallah Indians, among whom they found
an old elk hunter. After a long, patient interview, Doctor
White found that there was no possibility of crossing this
stupendous range, short of fifteen days' farther travel to the
southward, where, the hunter said, he was informed by the
Clamet Indians, that there was a path over the summits o*
the mountains, generally covered with snow. Discouraging
as this was, the inquirer decided to investigate for himself,
and they accordingly continued as before, along the base of
the mountains as far as practicable, through, what it is but
just to say, seemed one of nature's gardens. In various pla
ces, where had probably been Indian encampments, they
found wheat growing in little patches, from four to five feet
high, and admirably filled. On the route also were differ
ent clover and grasses, in great luxuriance. Near their road,
upon an elevation of at least a hundred feet above the level
of the sea, and quite away from any water, they found an
ash stump, solidly petrified, and digging into the earth sev
eral feet, the roots were in the same condition. This I will

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 267
leave for those more curious and scientific than myself to
account for. They fotmd many places, advantageous for
settling, combimng water, prairie, timber and excellence of
soil. Farther south, the plains were more extensive, but ap
parently, not less fertile and inviting, and all conceded that
here might be kept large herds, without fear of exhausting
the resources for feedbg.
Bebg now at considerable distance from the settlements,
elk and deer abounded on the adjoining blls, often passing
them in droves of from five to ten, and sometimes a dozen.
Here they enjoyed some sport in chasing a wildcat, which
sprang out from the high grass, to a thicket, when they
mounted their horses, surrounded, and succeeded b Mll-
ing it.
Finding the assertion of their Indian friend true, and that
the crossing of the Cascade mountains in the manner they
wished, impracticable, the doctor determined not to return
to the Willamette without accomplishing something valuable.
He therefore decided to find their way across the upper
branches of the river and valley, and seeking the mountains
bordering on the Pacific, if possible, to discover an eligible
opening through to the ocean, as there had long been a de
sire on the part of the inhabitants, to find another way to the
coast than by the falls of the Willamette and the Columbia
river. Af ter'passing the main branches without difficulty, through
a country well grassed and wooded, combining about an equal
proportion of timber and prairie, they emerged into a large
plain, interspersed here and there with an oak orchard grove,
and gazed upon scenery altogether novel and peculiar. On
every hand were scattered mounds, something resembling
haystacks, from one to five hundred feet in height. This

268 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
was probably occasioned by convulsions of the earth, as the
country elsewhere showed evidence of previous volcanic ac
tion. This was demonstrated no longer ago than 1843, in
the rupture of Mt. St. Hellens, as will be read b the agent's
first report. One of these mounds shot up, far above its
fellows, not less than seventeen hundred or eighteen hundred
feet in height. At a glanee, they discovered that from the
summit might be gained a superb view of the surrounding
country, and the doctor and his bterpreter, Du Guerre, re
solved, if possible, to reach it. They set out on horseback,
and takbg a winding course through the oak openings, suc
ceeded with little difficulty, for a thousand feet, when their
path became more steep and rugged, and they found them
selves under the necessity of tybg their horses, and finishing
the attempt on foot. On ascending three hundred feet high
er, the doctor found his professed half-caste companion more
of an Indian than a white man, judging from bs dexterity,
for he seemed to climb the steeps with the greatest ease and
skill, while with himself it was a hard labor and struggle.
However, both were soon obliged to scramble, like four-foot
ed animals, catching at every twig and branch, to aid
their passage to the top, which they reached b about half
an hour. Here they found a few tiny strawberry vines, just
begbning to blossom, and among the rocks evergreen shrub
bery of corresponding growth.
On this rocky pobt, Du Guerre scared up a mountab
black tailed deer, with a beautiful little fawn, and recreant,
as most of his race, to bs compabon's no small vexation,
Du Guerre levelled his rifle, and broke one of its legs above
the knee. The poor creature, with the broken limb dang
ling, went scampering off down the broken steeps, followed
by its little, bleating dependance.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 269
They now took a delightful survey of the general features
of the landscape before them. On one hand was the vast
chain of the Cascade mountabs, Mt. Hood looming in soli
tary grandeur far above its fellows ; on the other was the
Umpqua mountains, and a little farther on, the coast ridge.
Between these lay the whole magnificent panorama of the
Willamette valley, with its ribbon streams, and carpet-like
verdure. The day was fine, and such was the clearness of
the atmosphere that the scene was very distinct, grand and
imposbg. Li enthusiastic admiration of the noble site, the
doctor named the elevation Mt. Spencer, b compliment to
John C. Spencer, the then secretary of war, and plucked
some choice evergreens, intending to present them to the
daughters of tbs gentleman ; but the Pawnees despoiled
bm of the treasure.
They now began the descent, certainly on his part with
more dread than he commenced the ascent, upon which the
half-breed looked at him with a significant smile upon bs
tawny features. But in a few hours they jobed their com
panions in safety, when the interpreter departed from his
usual taciturnity, and displayed considerable eloquence in
describing the stupendous view they had had from Mt. Spen
cer. One of the party remarked, that the name was a very
just one, for the mount towered above its compeers, as nobly
as did Mr. Spencer among his cotemporaries.

270 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

CHAPTER XXIV.
Indian encampment — Prairies and band of Indians — Stream — Separa
tion — Spur of the mountains — Horses left — Indian village — Singular
destitution — Embarking on the river — Startling accident — Swift
travelling — Sterile tract — Tide water — Encamp — Indian village —
Craw fish — Singular piece of meat — Indian explanation — The ocean
— Strip of land — Boy — Brown's claim — Railroad advantages — Indi
an toil — Good fire — In sight of friends — Breakfast — A start — A pres
ent — Wolves — Beautiful country — Arrival at the colony — Petition —
Start again for the states — Party separate — Meeting at the Dalles —
Indian encampment — Wedding here to-day — Bride and bridegroom
— Dresses — Whimsical story — Disappointment in obtaining the bride's
beautiful dress — Murderous affair — Interesting account — Deserter —
Another threatened — John Day river — Saucy Indians — Wallawallas
— A halt — Visitors and presents — Agriculture and its effects — Hot
Spring — Alarm — Keyuses and Nez Perces — Alarming report — Guard
— Emigration — Letters — St. Joseph's company — Mr. Fisher's eager
ness for news — A meal — Odd reason for lagging behind — Chance for
carrying a letter — Roguish girls — Fort Hall — Runaway horse.
They now struck a trail which led to a considerable Indian
encampment, whose inhabitants, judging from their utter
ignorance of our language, had never before seen a white
person. The doctor enquired of them as well he was able,
and had his hopes increased of this being a feasible route to
the Pacific. They had not progressed more than sixteen or
eighteen miles, when they came upon a beautiful prairie,
and a large band of Indians. There also they found a large
stream, flowing directly to the ocean, and abounding in
quantities of the choicest fish. Dr. White obtained a pilot,

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 271
and left most of the company, and all the baggage, and with
three others, resolved to go light, and expeditiously as pos
sible to the coast. They soon reached the second spur of
the mountain, which was so difficult, and wearisome to climb,
that the doctor, overcome by heat and fatigue, offered a dol
lar and a half for a pbt of water, which the poor gbde ac
cepted, and hastened down, but returned with only a half
pbt for the five. They toiled on through some places so
steep, that each rider dismounted, and seizing his steed by
the tail, was obliged to flog bm severely to make him ad
vance, which he could then only do, by a few jumps, and
then falling upon his kness to rest. At the top they were
obliged to leave the horses, without a particle of grass to
subsist upon, and make their journey down on foot, and were
happy at finding themselves at the river side.
Here they suddenly arrived at an Indian village, the inhab
itants of which, though there were only five of them, so un
accustomed were they to the whites, fled like affrighted deer,
and all the peaceable demonstrations of their visitors could
not induce them to return, so they were obliged to pass the
night in fearfb apprehensions of a surprise. However, there
was no alarm, and b the morning they succeeded in persua-
dbg one of them to come near, and through him hired a ca
noe and couple of men to convey them down the river. One
of these men wore a single covering, consisting of a string
of beads about his neck, and the rest of the villagers seemed
in a like destitute condition, for which the white men were
unable to account, as the hills abounded with game, and the
waters with fish.
They had proceeded but a short distance b their frail bark,
when they discovered the river to be very rapid ; they were
soon b a succession of rapids and cascades, and shootbg for-

272 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
ward with great velocity, when the bow of the canoe struck
a large rock, and instantly split two-thirds its length. The
channel was very wbding, and all that saved the crew from
instant death, was, that the steersman, with true Indian dex
terity, clenched his paddle to a rock, and with a shrill scream
and significant motion of the head, warned them to sprbg
upon the rock, and never did obsequious servants obey with
greater alacrity. For four or five hours they anxiously pa
ced the rock, while the boatmen returned for another canoe.
The one which they brought was still more slender than the
other, and havbg a strange river to navigate, the doctor had
some difficulty in persuading Brown to go farther, he decla
rmg that the fates were against them, as regarded both the
states and Pacific. However, they were again seated, and
travelled swiftly through ten or twelve miles of mountainous
region, of the most forbidding character, a fit haunt for
elk, wolves and bears, and men as savage as they.
As they neared the sea, the current moderated in stregth,
mountains lessened in height, and nature put on a more cheer
ful garb, and they were soon in tide water, where a vessel
of common draught could easily float.
Within a few miles of their destbation they bivouacked for
the bght, which passed drearily and hungrily, for they had
left their food with their horses, and had eaten nothing for
twenty -four hours, except a few roasted fish two inches in
length. The next morning they discovered a large village,
and hazardous as it appeared, hunger overcome prudence,
and the doctor ordered a halt. They found the Indians
friendly, and procured a quantity of craw fish, which in the
native mode of cooking, was partly roasted, and partly steam
ed. This being the first clean food they had had, they
lost no time in breaking the shells, and, at first thought, it de-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 273
licious, but perhaps from its richness, without any other food
it soon lost its agreeable flavor. Presenting their entertainers
with a few trifles, they departed, followed by them to the
shore, and regarded with curious scrutiny.
They had been afloat but a few moments when, to their no
small alarm, they saw several canoes foUowbg them with
great rapidity. As they neared them, an old chief b the
forward canoe, held up a piece of meat, dried and smoked,
about eighteen inches long, and two inches square, a perfect
mass of fatness, exceptbg a remarkably thick rind, which
he wished to exchange for some of their commodities. The
article was entirely new to the whites, and they knew not
what to call it. It was at first the opinion that it was bear's
meat, but one declared that from no portion of the animal
cobd a piece of tbs description be obtained. When they,
became more familiar with the bearer, they learned it was
from the seal, and from bs singbarly happy motions, and
signs, it wobd appear that some six or eight canoes had
encountered an enormous seal, and had a rare frolic b secu
ring it. He became very eloquent, and enthusiastic b de
scribing, the breaMng of spears and upsetting of canoes, and
taMng his relation for truth, he was a veiy prominent actor
in the important achievement. Wble the old man was elab
orating upon tbs topic, they came b fbl view of the ocean,
and his story instantly lost all its bterest.
They entered a beautifb little bay, capable of securely
shelterbg a large number of ships. Between this and the
sea lay a wide strip of land, with light, sandy soil, and a con
siderable quantity of grass, peculiar to such soils, and they.
found the huts of sixty or seventy natives dotted about oa
this flat. The country on the coast was well timbered, hilly
but not mountabous, and they judged it capable of cultiva-
18

2^4 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
tion. On questioning the natives carefully relative to the
depth of the entrance to the bay from the sea, the doctor
supposed it to be about eleven feet. Satisfied with attaining
their object, they started for the Willamette, followed to the
river bank by the Indians, giving them to understand they
had never before seen a pale face b this place.
As they passed up the bay, Brown laid claim to a certab
spot, where he said he had no» doubt there would some day
be an immense city, as there were good facilities for cutting
a railroad from Willamette to the coast, and thereby a way
provided to convey materials to build such a city. In one
day they reached the point where they had left their hor
ses, and never did sinful children of Adam toil harder, or
more dexterously than did the poor Indians with their poles
and paddles, in taking them up the river. Night arrived,
and our friends were supperless b the midst of a cold rain
storm. They managed to set fire to an old fir stub, which
burned much better thirty feet above than where they wish
ed it to. The blankets being wet, and cinders continually
falling around them, the hours passed most uncomforably,
and the morning found them weary and irritable, and the
irritability was not lessened by the consideration that they
had yet six miles to travel before breakfasting. When they
reached the top of the mountain, eight miles distant from
the encampment where they had left their friends, they dis
charged their pieces to notify them of their return. They
passed cheerily down the valley, and the good fellows know-
bg, as they had anticipated they were on short allowance
had coffee prepared, and an ample repast. The meal, much
as they required it, afforded the hungry men scarcely more
pleasure, than did the report of their successful enterprise

-TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 275
to their companions, who, in their enthusiasm, greatly mag
nified the importance of the expedition.
They raised camp, and had proceeded but a few miles,
when they were overtaken by an Indian hunter, with whom
the party had spent most of the time of the doctor's ab
sence, bearing a newly slaughtered elk, urging it upon them,
and what was more singular and acceptable, without com
pensation. One of the men accomplished with him a trade
of rifles, and they again moved forward. Four hours later
found them once more on the banks of the Willamette, noth
ing unusual occurring except a harmless encounter with a
flock of large, mountain wolves, attracted by the scent of
the meat. Three and a half days more travel through a
country equally beautiful with the other side of the river,
and they were in the vicbity of the colony, and the doctor
had the pleasure of telling their adventures to his friend,
Gen. Gillihan, who, with the people generally, was .much
pleased with the relation. It was this expedition which the
legislature took action upon, praying congress to reward the
agent for his arduous labors.
Late b August Dr. White determined to take the usual
route to the United States, and obtaining Harris for pilot,
and Du Guerre, with three or four others, he started on the
15th, Harris and Saxton crossing the Cascade mountabs
with the horses, to meet him at the Dalles. At Vancouver
he was apprised of the danger of going with so small a party
across such an extensive Indian country. But he determined
to persevere, and went on to the Dalles, where the men and
horses had already safely arrived. However, I have omit
ted noticing two rather interesting incidents of his voyage
thither. A few miles above the Cascades, the party disem
barked to take their dinner, when they discovered a large

%%Q. TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
Indian encampment, wearing an air of unusual cheerfulness.
The doctor felt some curiosity to know what it meant, and
having ordered the salmon and potatoes on to boil, he ap-
proached it, and saw the lodge was thrown open wide, and
every species of Indian finery displayed in the best light.
fbe. spot they had selected for their camp was a lovely one,
being an oak orchard grove, upon the side of a pleasant,
gjassy eminence, the rolling waters of the Columbia on one
side, and noble mountabs on the other.
While he was gazing anxiously about, out stepped an In
dian, saybg to the bterpreter, "Wedding here to-day."
Qo hearing this, the doctor had no difficulty in distinguish
ing the parties, for in the centre of the principal lodge, sat
rather a pretty girl of eighteen, clothed b a robe of tanned
and dressed elk sMn, beautifully embroidered with beads,
and; delicately fringed; and by her side reclined a stately
lookbg copper colored youth, partly b European garb, both,
notwithstandbg the presence of the strangers, evidently in
a very complacent mood. This was the first Indian bridal
Dr. White had ever attended, and he was extremely desirous
of- obtabbg the handsome dress of the bride, believino- it
wpbd be of great interest to the friends at home. While
he was cogitating how to negotiate tbs delicate affair, Chap
man strode up, saying, " What now ? Things look rather
different from what they did two years ago, when I was first
al^ng here; not an Indian to be seen here, nor any thing
else but a few old, worn out cows of the emigration, with a
miserable boy to drive them. I was nearly starved to death,
in the storm, and he had nothing to eat, nor any thing to eat
it 4n, so doing the very best I cobd, I slipped off my shoe
and milked b it, and drank out of it, too, and was glad to
get,off so." Tbs odd tale, told in his peculiar ludicrous

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 2^77
style, set his auditor laughing, and put all thought of the
dress out of his head. It soon returned, and he endeavored
to strike a bargain, uselessly though, for he was gravely
informed that a very considerable sum could not at this time
buy the article.
It is not necessary to say more of the marriage rites, than
that so far as the doctor could learn, they were conducted
in much the same manner that were McDonald's marriage
negotiations with Comcomly, both parties exchanging such'
presents as they had agreed upon.
While here, Dr. White learned of a most murderous affair1
at the Dalles, in which two Indians were said to have beetf
chopped entirely to pieces. He hastened to the spot, arid as
they saw him, the squaw and daughters of one of the deceas
ed set up a mournful wailing. He investigated, and found"
that, as in most other cases, the disturbance had been caus
ed by family feuds. It seemed that formerly a member ofa
family had been killed, and as was the custom, his friends had'
slain his slayer, and his friends' b return one of the other4
family, till with the last two, the males of both families had'
become nearly extinct. Havbg no time to redress or cor
rect the wrong, he returned to the canoe, followed by the^
afflicted wife, reminding him of a transaction two years pre
vious and imploring him very piteously to grant her protee1
tion. The circumstance to which she alluded was as fol-'"
lows. At that time, the agent, on official business, spent a fort
night with Perkins and Brewer, during which the Indian-
chief died, leaving a large property in herds, horses, etc;
Immediately after the demise of an individual, it is custom1'
ary for the head men of the tribe to assemble, and distribute'
among themselves bs possessions, excepting a small share'

278 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
for the males of the family, leaving the females destitute, to
become the slaves of the tribe. Learning from Mr. Brewer that
they were already convened, and that the only remaining rel
atives of the deceased were a wife and three daughters, the
doctor repaired to the place of meeting, determined, if pos
sible, to break up the cruel practice. On arriving, the distri
bution had b part been made, and he found it a matter of
great delicacy to interfere with, especially as the chiefs were
bterested in continuing the custom. After some reflection,
the doctor deliberately arose, and taking off his coat, rolled
it up, and placing it at the feet of the oldest chief, retired to
bis seat, knowing that if "it was accepted, his point was gain
ed, for if a coat is presented to and received by a chief, the
giver is at liberty to ask any favor. After a slight pause he
arose, and asked in his own tongue, " What is the wish of
the white cbef ?" He replied, that he " had called to have
an interview with bm, and his people, if it was his pleas
ure." The haranguer was sent out, and the people assem
bled, before whom the " white chief " arose, and spoke of
their calamity in losbg so great a warrior, and told them that
he would relate to them what would be done in his own
country, at a similar event. That at the death of a man,
three or five of the wisest men among the people would
meet to say how his property should be disposed of. He
asked them if they thought this a good law ? They talked
awhile among themselves, and then through the chief, re
plied, "it is good." "Then," said the speaker, "if you
would please my great chief, who sent me here, choose five
of your wisest men, and let them say what shall" be done
with your brother's possessions." Some time was occupied
m making this, to them, new arrangement, and then the chief
announced that their visitor and four others were elected,

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 279
urging as a reason for his appointment, that they would not
know how to proceed without his assistance and direction.
He then stated to them in what high estimation the women
in his country were held, and as examples cited them to the
mission ladies, with whom they were acquainted. He
told them that one-third was given to the wife, and the resi
due to the children, either sons or daughters, and that no
portion was received by the chiefs unless they gave a full
equivalent in return. He saw "this caused some demur, and
said he did not know how the law would suit his good
friends, but that they would retire and consult on the mat
ter, and then the people should know the result. The com
mittee then went into privy council, constitutbg Mr. Brewer
their secretary, the old chief first remarkbg, that the course
his brother had marked out was very difficult, as it was op
posed to their customs, and those of their fathers, besides,
some of the property had already been given away. On
asMng if they had a right to recal it, after some delibera
tion, it was decided they had, and it was restored. Finally,
it all ended as Dr. Wbte wished, the widow and daughters
receiving the whole, excepting a few presents to the head
men, for which a return was made, and placed in the com
mon fund. The dobgs»were signed and sealed, and the pa
pers committed to Mr. Brewer's keeping, and he two years
after informed his friend that the engagements had been
faithfully fulfilled.
But to return to the homeward journey, which was finally
renewed on the 23d of Aug. The very first morning, Harris,
on whom the agent depended as interpreter, for the Sioux
and Pawnees, declared his intention of returnbg to the Wil
lamette. He wobd give no reason for so dobg, and in this
unaccountable manner, without cause or provocation, left

280 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
them. The same day at noon they reached the Deshutes
river, where Brown likewise, in great impatience, declared
that he would return, and Dr. White's old friend, Batteus
Du Guerre, who had never before failed him, coincided with
the intended deserter, saying it would be impossible to reach
the states with so small a party. Their leader concealed
his chagrb, and told them to do as they chose, but as long
as the road lay open before him, he should go on. This en
ded the matter, they followed on, and that evening reached
the John Day river, named after a famous, yet unfortunate
old Kentucky hunter, who, from hardships encountered in
this region, became insane, died, and was buried, on its banks.
Here they met a considerable body of Indians, whose
saucy, boisterous behavior, excessively annoyed Brown. It
was a tribe who had been habitually troublesome to emigra
ting parties. Dr. White was a little in the rear, but came
up in time to check the excitement, and prevent disturbance.
He coolly said to them, " you see my party is too small to
set a guard over our horses ; if any of you want my prop
erty, go take it ; but I expect to find it all in its proper place,
in the morning." To the surprise of some of the party, this
confidence was not misplaced, though poor Brown slept lit
tle, and was full of evil prophecies.
On the 26th they met the Walla%alla Indians, on their
grounds near fort Willawalla, and were particularly struck
with the noble appearance of the young brave who came out
to meet them. The neatness of their plantations, scattered
along the sMrts of the woods, was very creditable to their
skill and bdustry. Long strings of corn were bcely plaited
and hung outside their cabins, to dry, and every thing gave
indications of thrift and improvement. In a few moments an
old chief came, and with his hat under his arm, very cour-

TEN TEARS IN OREGON. 281
teously saluted the strangers, cordially inviting them to his
lodge, and could hardly be prevailed upon to accept their
apologies and allow them to proceed. They moved two
miles farther and halted, when they were visted by many of
the tribe, bringing with them presents of the various pro
ductions of their farms. The white men spent several hours
with them, listening with interest to descriptions of their
agricultural pursuits, and their beneficial effects, and ascri
bing great credit to Dr. Whitman and Mr. Spalding, who
firt/t introduced among them this change from a savage to a
civilized state. They left them about three o'clock, P. M.,
and camped for the night in the midst of the Blue moun
tains. The next day they made a long and cheerfb march, and
camped on a considerable stream near the Grand Round.
The following day, passing a large tree, at the foot of
which, had manifestly been built many fires, Saxton, laugh
ing, remarked, " there is where, last fall, I had my first quar
rel, all the way from the United States to this country, being
the place where I burnt up the last mess of beans, kettle and
all, in consequence of falling asleep, worn down by fatigue.
Our mistress kicked up a row, and such an one as none of
us are likely soon to forget."
They next entered the Grand Round, and traversed most
of .its length, Dr. W. more than ever impressed with its love
liness and fertility. They that inorbng bathed in the hot
spring. A few miles from the round, they came in fbl view
of a large encampment, which they supposed tenanted by
Snake Indians, near where, the fall before, two of the tribe
were killed by reckless whites, thereby rendering it -deci
dedly hostile They experienced much uneasiness, and
made preparations to advance, cautiously as possible ; but,

282 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
on nearbg it, found a party of Keyuses -and Nez Perces.
They gave a most unfavorable account of a band of Snakes,
just ahead, so much so, that Dr. White deemed it advisa
ble to hire three of the warriors to escort them through the
Snake country. On the night of the 30th his brave Nez
Perces kept watch, but nothing occurred to alarm them.
The next day, they made at least forty miles, and con
sidering themselves beyond danger from the Snakes, lay by
for the Sabbath, and found it emphatically a day of rest.
On Monday, about noon, to their almost extravagant joy,
they met a company of eight hundred emigrants, headed by
Barlow, Knighton nnd McDonald. They were very cheer-
ful, and represented the dangers of the route as far less than
they had anticipatsd ; indeed, they said the principal annoy
ance arose from the dust of so many wagons, numbering
eighty-seven. It was to the doctor as exciting a meet
ing as had been that with the exploring squadron, at Hono
lulu, each party bringing news from the country they had
left. After this they met several expeditions, one of which, near
fort Boise, brought the doctor several valuable letters ; one
from Mrs. White, from whom he had not heard in fifteen
months, and one from each of his esteemed friends, Benja
min Joy and Gen. Min'er, of Lansing.
Near the falls of the Snake river, they encountered the
St. Joseph's company, and their first impressions of it were
any thing but favorable. They were camped on a sandy
plain, and the first person who presented himself, was a tall,
meager, one eyed man,runnbg along the bank of the river with
a fishpole in his hand, corresponding with his own dimen
sions. The next was not a one eyed individual, but possessed
a black eye, and was a suspicious looking subject ; and then

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 283
a tall, commanding looking man, walking hastily about, appa
rently in anxious search after some object. By this time the
thoughts and reflections of our party, respecting the compa
ny, were sufficiently melancholy. The last named gentle
man, suddenly observing them, abruptly changed his course,
and advancing to the doctor, held out his hand, saying, " my
name is Fisher," upon which he extended his, and "mine is
White." "Surely, not Dr. White, of Oregon?" "The
same, sir." " Why, sir, I know you well by report, I feel
myself well acquainted with you ; come to the camp, sir ;
come to the camp ;" and nothing loth he did go to the camp,
where he found a company of intelligent New England peo
ple, who had formerly emigrated to Iowa, aud were now on
their way to Oregon. They were more eager for news than
any he had before met, and also for readbg matter, for they
had devoured every thing b their possession, even to their
old almanacs. He was literally forced to give them an Ore
gon lecture, so he harangued to them, some sitting upon
wagon tongues, some on the ground, and others bringing
out their old fashioned eastern chairs.
While this was going forward, some of the ladies prepa
red for the party, under Mr. Fisher's tent, a delicious repast
of choice bread, crackers, tea, dried beef, butter, and maple
molasses. While partaking of these, a large number stood
round the travellers, asking questions as eagerly as they ate.
On enquiring why they were so far behind the general par
ty, one of the ladies replied, " why, I guess it is because
we lie by on the Sabbath." A smile passed round the cir
cle, and an elderly maiden remarked, " Oh, sir, that is not
the only reason ; our company are very philosophical ; they
are not disposed to let little drawbacks trouble them ; neither

284 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
do they wish to wear themselves out by extraordinary exer
tions, such as risbg too early in the morning, and dashing
away over the plains, like eager seekers after filthy lucre."
A laugh followed, and the doctor's enquiries were at an
end. After dinner, strollbg about, he passed a group of young
ladies busily chattering, and one of them, rather blushingly,
asked, " Sir, do you carry letters to the Ubted States ?"
" Yes, certaiby, I have a pack animal with me especially
for that purpose." There was a titter among her com
panions, and one spoke, " there, Lucy, you see the gentle
man is willing to carry it. I. told you so." Another, " Yes,
to be sure. And now I reckon you. would like to have us
get a pen and paper for you, wobdn't you?" With a half-
provoked air she bade them " bush," and left them. He
watched her proceedbgs, and soon saw her seated upon the
houns of a wagon, her paper spread upon her lap, her cheek
pressed upon her hand, lost to outward objects^ and indi
ting her sweetest matter. When she brought, and half
bashfully, presented the letter, requesting the doctor to
send it to its address, he replied, laughbgly, " you may be
certain, I will do so ; if all the rest fail, this shall go safe
ly," She retreated amid the suppressed giggle of her
rogbsh mates. He saw the letter was directed to a gen
tleman. The party were much pleased with Mr. Fisher, and-one
of them presented him a fine horse, which he gratefully, ac
cepted, and they separated.
After traversing the sand pjains to withb half a mile of
fort Hall, Dr. White and his compabons indulged in a
thorough wasbng, in which . their clothes came in for a

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 285
share, and all being in a fresher condition, presented them
selves at the fort. They remained with Mr. Grant sev
eral days, the reason of which was, that the horse bear
ing the mails, and other valuables, took fright, and ran
away, and about three days passed before they recovered
him.

283 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

CHAPTER XXV.
SfiowerE — Soda Springe — Dr. Burke — Pleasant interview — Green river
—Great change — New route — Sterile and forbidding country1 — Sum
mit level — Uncomfortable night — Contrast — Divide — " Home, sweet
home" — A trarl — Sabbath travelling — Weather — Dreary pass — Ani
mals — Bear — Sweetwater valley— Independence rock — Solitary walk
— Halt — Ravine — Snow — Red bluff — Camp on the Platte — Buffalo
— Needless fears — -Humbug — Three grizzly bears — Signs of Indiana
— Nondescript — Indian and family — Signs of danger — Herd of hor
ses — Attempt to escape observation — Failure — An old mnn — Kind
reception — Handsome offer — An American — Feasting — Smoking —
Reasonable request — Encampment — Two Frenchmen — Good meal
— Warm spring — Fort Laranny — Mr. Tappan — Fligibilily for a mil
itary post.
The first night after leaving fort Hall they had a shower
of rain, the only one between the Dalles of the Columbia
and the United States, a period of ninety days. Their sec
ond encampment from this place was at the soda spring.
Every thing bore much the same aspect, as four years pre
viously, excepting the unpleasant change caused by emigrants
having cut away so much timber, lessening the wild beauty,
and grateful shade of a spot, destined, ere long, to become
a rendezvous for the world.
On the 27th, they met Dr. Burke, who was engao-ed m
collecting botanical and mineralogical specimens for the
English government. He related many anecdotes of his
travels in Africa, and the interview was both pleasing and
instructive. They had the pleasure of his company to a din-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 287
ner, which Brown and Chapman exerted their skill to ren
der palatable, presenting him with bread, butter, and pota
toes, which he had not tasted for months.
They reached Green river the 9th of October. Here a
great change had taken place ; the numerous expeditions
having so destroyed the timber as to leave the doctor b
doubt whether it really was Green river. It was also quite
different from what it had been when he first visited it. But
their doubts were resolved by finding an old piece of wagon-
board, with a name written upon it, in pencil, " we ar
rived at tbs pobt, Green river,  1844."
They now attempted a route, to them, entirely new, be
tween Green river and the Rocky Mountains. It was an arid
and forbiddbg region, uttely destitute of vegetation, and of
every living thing, the lizard excepted. They pushed on
for forty miles, without a drop of water, or discoverbg a
single article fit for food ; at the end of which they stopped
and took a slight lunch, feeling more uncomfortable for their
jaded horses, than pleasure in their own hasty allowance.
As they approached the summit level between Green and
Sandy rivers, the weather became very chilly ; the winds,
blowing from the snowy tops of the mountains, were search
ing and severe. As evening came on, the party became
drowsy from cold and weariness, and were hardly able to
reach a suitable place for rest, which, however, they did
reach between ten and eleven o'elock at night. As they
were in a dangerous part of the country, they dared not
build a fire, but spread their blankets upon the wet ground,
and threw themselves upon them, reflecting how different
was their prospect for spending the night, from those of
travellers in the states, contrasting their uncomfortable, and

288 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
even perilous situation, with good fires, warm supper, and
soft beds.
In the morbng they were roused by the scampering of
the horses, bellowing of buffalo, and capering of antelope.
Chapman slaughtered a fine antelope, which, with bread
composed of flour, salt, and water, mixed, and baked on a
tin before the fire, and the last of the butter, made then-
breakfast. They started about ten o'clock, and reached the divide
that evening, and on Saturday crossed it on foot, arrived at
Sweetwater valley at twelve o'clock, and at three came
to a halt, each one happy that they were again travel
ling down hill, and on the side of the old republic. One
involuntarily broke out singing, " home, sweet home," and
Dr. W.'s thoughts irresistably flew forward to the time when
he should again meet his wife, and dear little boys, whom
he had not seen for three and a half years.
At sunset they struck a large Indian trail, running to the
south-east, and they thought the party might have passed
while they were at dbner. This did not retard their speed,
and they made twenty miles before they agab sought re
pose, which they at last did with feelings of great disquiet.
They aWoke before day-break, and went in pursuit of their
horses, which had strayed far away. The nature of their
emotions at this, may be imagined. They were yet a thou
sand miles from the states, with a scarcity of provisions, and
a hostile country to pass through. However, the genius of1
good luck favored them, and they found the animals ; after
which they had divine worship, and then started forward, for
they dared not tarry, even though it was Sabbath. That
night they slept twenty-five miles distant, b the Sweetwater
valley, where thousands of moving buffaloes disturbed their

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 289
rest, coming withb three rods of them. The night was
clear, though severe for the 7th of October. The next day
they passed Hell Gate, so called for being the place where
eleven whites were cut off at once by the Indians. Through
this dismal pass, a quarter of a mile in length, cut through
a mountain of rock, they travelled in great fear lest they
should be way-laid. In the morning they awoke much re
freshed, and carefully searched, but found no trace of sava
ges, breakfasted, and went on, meeting numerous sage-
fowls, horses, antelopes and buffaloes, of which they killed
one. That night they arrived at Salareetus lake, where they
were visited by a huge grizzly bear, but did not pursue him,
though strongly tempted to do so. They reached Sweetwater
pass about half past nine, and soon after, Independence rock.
Here the doctor crept stealthily along a mile in advance,
fearing a repetition of the scene he had formerly witnessed.
He was startled by the lightest motion of a leaf, in the shim
mering light of the setting moon. Every thing was as still
as death, except a slight stir, now and then, occasioned by a
gentle zephyr, giving an apparent quiet life and motion to
every shadowed twig and weed. The scene was solembty
itself. They camped between twelve and one o'clock, and
the next day travelled thirty miles.
On the 8th, after an early breakfast, they mounted, the
wind at their backs, which, clear as it was, gradually b-
creased, till, at eleven o'clock, it was like a blow at sea, ma
king the sand so troublesome that they were driven into har
bor at twelve. There they dined on buffalo tongue, tender-
lines and tea, and at two o'clock, as the wind had a little
abated, again started, and travelled on till they reached the
bottom of a deep ravine, where a few willows partially shiel
ded them from the snow and driving blasts, through the
19

290 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
night. The next day was cold and stormy, the snow falling
an inch in depth on the table while they were dibng. That
afternoon the travellers came in sight of the Red bluff of the
Black hills, of a color between scarlet and chocolate, and
that evening camped on the Platte.
In the night, Brown awoke his companions, to listen to the
hordes of buffaloes crossing the stream in a precipitate and
hurried manner. Chapman quickly, but gravely, admon
ished them to " be very still, as there were Indians just be
low." Having some doubts of these night visions, his leader
asked his reasons for such a statement, but in vain ; he would
or could give none. In the morning he started out to fetch
up the horses, and soon came back, saying, in a hurried and
excited manner :
" There, I told you there were Indians down there !"
"Well, Chapman, what now ? Have you seen any?"
" No ; but I heard the men gambling, and making medi
cines, children talking, dogs barking, and all sorts of noi
ses." " Chapman, did you hear the dogs bark ?"
" I tell you I heard all sorts of noises, and if you don't
believe me, go yourself, and you will soon be satisfied."
" That I will do, certainly. Brown, come ; go along."
They went as far as he did, and heard nothing but the
winds sighing through the trees, b the valley, the flitting of
ravens, and the pecking of birds on the old, dry timber.
Far down the river, they saw the buffaloes and antelopes
qbetly grazing, and all nature, in these lonely recesses, ap
pearing awful from her very repose ; the storm being over,
and the ground covered with snow to three inches in
depth. Dr. White decided to cross the river, and go ahead, Chap-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 291
man's dreams notwithstanding, and his protestations of hear
ing marvebus sounds. But Brown, on the subject of Indi
ans, always cowardly, was inclined to believe that the vis
ions might be Providential warnings, and the doctor directed
him to go to the point of an adjoining bluff, and satisfy him
self that Lis fears were groundless. He had been gone but
a short time, when he came cantering back at full speed, de
claring that he had " seen a man and horse, and heard chil
dren ;" that he " knew there were human bebgs there ; was
afraid they had seen him, but hoped not." Though habitu
ally sufficiently credulous, the doctor doubted much, but
turaed aside through a depression in the mountain, went
twelve miles to make six, and found, as he had suspected,
that it was all a humbug. Impression men, and timid be
lievers in dreams, have no business on this road with small
parties. The second night following this, the doctor., followed by
his companions, wound his way, by the dim light of a cloud
ed moon, down the Platte, to a place of safety. Late in the
evening, he struck through some timber, both standing and
fallen, in a low, lonely vale, where he came suddenly upon
three grizzly bears, busily devouring the carcase of a buffa
lo. They retreated two jumps, by which time the intruder,
discovering his position, came to a halt to await the arrival of
his army in the rear. They no sooner recovered from their
first surprise, than with horrid growls they advanced to
wards him, and he made a precipitate retreat, when, fortu
nately, the party came up. Brown and Chapman dismounted
and advanced within thirty paces of the enemy. One of the
creatures, probably the dam, gave a dreadful yell, vindicative
of fear, and anger, and made a terrible bound towards them,
but such was the noise made by>he scampering^of the hor-

292 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
ses, that she was confused, and fled, hotly pursued by Chap
man, bawling as loud as he could,
"Brown, Brown — here they are! Come quick — we'll
have 'em."
But bruin and her cubs escaped into a thicket, whither
Chapman could hardly be restrained from following them.
In the morning, they found the animals had passed where
they slept, and the wounded bled so profusely, that they all
imagined they were sure of them, especially, as on following
the trail back to the place of firing, they found an immense
quantity of blood. They traced the track three miles, to
a dense thicket, where they left them, as their retreat
was unsafe to penetrate. They measured a foot mark, and
found it twelve inches in length by seven in breadth. They
travelled twenty-six miles, and camped on a branch of the
Platte, in the Black hills, and Brown shot a young deer, on
wiich they feasted lustily.
Sabbath morning they lay by till twelve o'clock, and then
moved on till sunset, amid fresh signs of Indians. They
now stopped an hour or two on another branch of the Platte,
and then rode till twelve o'clock, through a storm of wind,
hail and snow. They passed over a long divide, the moun
tab high, makbg, that day, thirty miles. They found a
thicket, in which they emcamped, which served not a little
to break off the piercing winds. The doctor lay. down on
his uncomfortable bed, and thought of home endearments.
He rested well, and felt better in the morning, though it
was cold and snowy. At a brisk fire they roasted a badger,
¦if the nondescript the doctor killed the day before, may be
so called. That mornbg the party met a Sioux, and his
family, who were very friendly, though, when he learned
the smallness of their number, he warned them of great dan-

TEN YEARS IN OREOON. 298
ger by rapping on bs head, and drawing his knife across his
throat, and significantly pointing far ahead. They left him,
and in half an hour saw before them an immense herd of
horses, which they knew must have owners, and those not
whites, and they then understood the fearful signs made by
their Sioux friend. They attempted to escape observation
by cutting across a district of country, and afterwards inter
secting the main road. Passing around the point of a hill,
they reached the old road, and, to their chagrin, in a few
moments came in full view of two hundred and fifty Sioux
lodges, not more than five hundred yards distant. To avoid
them was now impossible, and without a moment's hesitan
cy, the doctor wheeled his horse b that direction, and or
dered the party to follow with a rapid step. What the re
ception and doom awaiting them, he knew not. They soon
saw a brave, grave-looking old man, riding out to meet them^
and a multitude of children swarming to gaze upon the white
strangers. Dr. White alighted, and putting on the best na-
tured smile possible, shook hands with him. He seemed
pleased, and enquired by signs " where they came from, and
whence they were bound ?" Having no interpreter, the doc
tor did as well as he cobd by signs, and showing him a book
sealed with much wax, and also a number of extravagantly
large letters, which he told him he was carrying to the great
father, at Washington. By this time, a host had collected,
and the chief motioned the doctor to accompany bm to the
village, where he conducted him to the lodge of a younger,
though more influential chief, dressed in English costume,
and professbg to be a friend to the whites. In a few mo
ments, a Frenchman appeared, who understood their lan
guage sufficiently to inform the guests that the Indians
wished them to accept the soldier's lodge, or lodge of hon-

294 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
or, which should be vacated for their use, and spend the
night with them. It was large and convenient, and tired as
they were, the invitation was very tempting, but the doctor
declined, and asked an interview with an American, said to
fee in the camp.
In the meantime, while he was talking with his host, Sax
ton come in, in much agitation, and requested him to step out,
as the savages had already plundered one of the pack hor
ses, and Chapman was " in a dreadful stew." The doctor
coolly beckoned the chief to accompany him to the spot,
where he found the Indians much embarrassed and uncom
fortable. They had supposed the visitors would stay, and
had therefore taken off the pack and deposited it in the lodge
'assigned them. By this time, Mr. Gillipin, the gentleman
whom Dr. W. had begged to see, and who proved to be a
member of the American fur company, arrived. They had
met four years previous, at fort Laramy, and he was again
in the country on a trading excursion. He informed him that
a large party of the Sioux and Shiars were out on purpose
to kill every white, and Snake, they could find, as seven of
their tribe had been slain, as they thought, by them. It was
probably this band, whose trail I have mentioned, the party
saw one day after dinner. He said that if they had es
pied them, they certainly would have despatched every one.
He rendered himself very agreeable and serviceable, and
telling the natives who Dr. White was, they were invited
from lodge to lodge, to feast with them. They then brought
out their long, wooden-stemmed, stone-bowled pipes, which
they smoked peacefully and cheerfully. The doctor tried
hard to get off his awkward, Dutch pipe, which was cer
tainly no less beautiful than theirs, but to no avail, and was
not e little embarrassed. Chapman and Saxton humorously

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 295
remarked, that they thought the difficulty might be occa
sioned by its long travels over the hot plains, causing it to be
come contracted, thereby leaving an occasional crevice.
In a delicate manner their entertainers intimated their wish
for a present from our government, as an eqbvalent, in part,
for the wood consumed, and game destroyed, by the large
immigrating parties, passing through their country, in which,
believing the wish reasonable, Dr. White encouraged them.
The wbte men then left them, and camped pleasantly two
miles distant, and slept without alarm. The next day, they
met a village, moving, dogs as well as horses, harnessed,
drawing long poles and goods, seemingly at home in the bu
siness. They also met Smoke, an important Sioux chief.
They rested for the night in the camp of two Frenchmen,
b the service of the American fur company, one of them
havbg resided in the country seventeen years, and was a
jolly, roistering fellow. He had been there so long, that he
said he actually dreaded the appearance of a white woman,
or any thing like refinement. Their carts were heavily laden
with dried buffalo tongue, and other meats, of which they
presented the Americans, with real, back-woods generosity.
Of them, they made a rich meal, while listening to the fel
low's yarns of the Rocky Mountains,, the enormous elk he
had killed, and his encounters -with the grizzly bear. His
story-telling propensity was probably increased by the quan
tity of tea he drank, of which he declared he had not before
tasted in several years, and which acted upon him in much
the same manner that stimulous would on another per
son. Twelve miles from this, at the foot of the Black hills, they
reached the warm spring, where, as they would soon arrive
at fort Laramy, they performed their ablutions, as at fort

296 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
Hall. They were hospitably received at Laramy by Pappin,
the governor, and the doctor was favorably impressed with
the different manner in which he conducted the trading es
tablishment, from most others they had visted. He was
fully convinced that this would be the best point at which
to fix a military post for the protection of imigrants, being
the most dangerous part of the route between the United
States and Willamette. Eight miles below this, there was a
small fort, under ths direction of Mr. Daniel Finch, where
our travellers were obliged to trade their wearied horses for
fresh ones.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 297

CHAPTER XXVI.
Chapman's return for the minute book — Hard time — A move — Return
— White men — The Platte — Art nature — Platte crane — Polecat —
Ash creek— Thompson — A present — Wolves — Kill a buffalo — A
robbery — Woodless platte, valley, etc. — Bread — History of a lump of
sugar — Singular circumstance — Sabbath morning — Weather — Buf
falo — Birds — Antelope, etc, — Length of the buffalo district — Large
herd — Express — Warning of danger — A sign of danger — Pawnees
— Unpleasant interruption — Pack-horse frightened — Troublesome
Indian — Departure — Firing — Another interruption — Number of Indi
ans — Madness of attempting to contend — Brown and Saxton — Coat
taken — A blow — Hard usage — A protector — A ride on horse-back —
Saxton — Little demons — A council — Delicate feast — Council more
moderate — Another confiscation — '' Bad people behind" — Not to be
gulled — Saxton's visitor — Package of manuscripts — Preparation to
start — Kind old squaw — Gratitude — Unpleasant surprise — Advanta
geous trade proposed — Kind interference — Forced trade — Final con
clusion — Dr. Satterly.
They started on the 18th, when the doctor, having left
his minute book, about noon, Chapman returned for it on
foot, and at one the next morning overtook them, in the
midst of a wild storm of hail and snow. His toes were
frost-bitten, and he had denned up three times, like a bear,
when, not exactly pleased with his quarters, he at length
came on. Nor had the party fared much better, having re
treated six miles in the course of the night, by reason of
falling in with a camp, which they suspected to be the Paw
nees, to a deep gully, where they tied their horses together,
and waited the rising of the moon ; after which they retra-

298 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
eed their steps to meet Chapman. Reaching a suitable place
for encampment, they raised a signal to inform him of their
whereabouts, and they lay down, fireless, amid cold and
snow. The next was the morning of the Sabbath, and still storm-
mg ; but they managed to kindle a fire, comforting them
selves with the consideration, that the poor horses, at least,
had good picking. At twelve they were agab off, and
found to their relief, that the neighbors they had so much
feared, were a white man and his associates, on their way
with goods, to the interior, to trade for buffalo robes.
They reached the Platte before twilight, passing through
scenery most remarkable, nature having turned her works
into a semblance of art. On every side were domes, cas
tles, spires, churches, etc., etc. Buffalo still abounded.
On the 20th they arrived again at the Chimney, at twelve
halted on the river, and at dusk had made twenty-five miles.
The following day they travelled only eighteen miles, but
the next, thirty ; after which they stopped on the Platte, and
cooked a skunk, which Chapman had caught, and a polecat,
which another had killed, and which Chapman and Saxton
pronounced very nice eating.
After several days' march, without bcident, excepting a
run away of the horses, they arrived at the mouth of
Ash creek, the point of turning off for the south Platte,
where they spent a night with Wm. P. Thopmson, a Ken
tucky hunter, in the employ of a fur company. He feasted
them on the nicest treat of buffalo meat which they had yet
found. He was stopping here by order, to guard goods, and
was soon to leave for Laramy, where he hunted in the sav
age wilds for the sum of two hundred and fifty dollars per
annum, although an educated, high-minded young man, of

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 299
honorable and wealthy parentage. He presented Dr. White
with a fine ham of venison and a set of deer's horns with
nine branches, accompanied with the scalp and ears, for the
patent office at Washington.
They now found the wolves more numerous than they had
ever before seen, and especially troublesome at night. On
the 26th they met, and counted, twenty-one b a single drove,
very large — the real buffalo wolves — which, when inclined,
run down the fastest cows, hamstring them, and at will,
slaughter whole herds.
At dusk, the men killed a large buffalo, and cut from him
some of the choicest portions, to the amount of eighty
pounds, intending in the morning to get the tongue, etc. To
their amazement, the morning brought disappointment, for
nothing but the disjobted skeleton remained, notwithstand-
bg the carcase could not have weighed less than two thou
sand pounds, some of the party rating it as high as a ton
and a half.
They travelled on that day thirty miles, down the wood
less Platte, or Plate, as it is justly named, from its great
width and shallow waters. It is seldom more than three feet
b depth, and at this time unusually low, averaging not more
than an bch, and the bottom a perfect bed of quicksand.
The valley and table land of this country, is well grassed,
and lies handsomely, and if timbered and less sandy, would
be very valuable.
On the morning of the 26th, bebg Sabbath, they had
bread for breakfast, the first they had eaten for twenty
days. D**** brought forward about four ounces of maple
sugar. By his mischievous, significant looks, the others
were led to enquire where he obtained it, supposing he had

300 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
procured it from the emigrants, and he seemed as well pleas
ed to inform them as they to know.
" Well," said he, " I will give its history. It was made
in 1831, and presented to wife and self, at our marriage, by
my mother-in-law. It has twice travelled round Cape Horn,
through the Pacific to Oregon ; as often over the Rocky
Mountains, and spent a sufficient time in the Wallamette val
ley to gain a residence there. Though somewhat dwindled
away by its advanced age, it is very sweet, but not as sweet
as the recollection of the old lady's kindnesses and many
virtues." About ten o'clock, Brown came in with his rifle, express
ing his surprise at somethmg which had just occurred, and
remarking that if there was such a thing as a special Provi
dence manifested towards any company, it must be this.
"All the game we have had, has been shot down right in
the road, and every endeavor to the contrary has proved
abortive, and just now in my attempt to kill a wolf, a circum
stance happened which beats the d — 1. I loaded my rifle,
and passing a wolf, levelled it at him. The cap burst,
the piece went off, but the bullet passed half way out of the '
barrel, and there it stays. I hauled out my pistol and snap
ped it ; the cap burst on the tube, and that did not go off."
Chapman advised him to lay aside his gun, and let Sab
bath hunting alone for the future. But Brown replied :
" Do you suppose God would give me a gun, and then not
allow me to use it? Away with your superstition."
And here followed some of his soundest arguments, in
justification of Sabbath breaking.
Monday, the weather was very fine, and buffaloes aboun
ded, together with the antelope, and birds began to increase
in number and variety. The white crane, of about the size,

TEN TEARS IN OREGON. 301
and with the habits of the sandhill crane, greatly interested
the doctor, and he endeavored to obtain a specimen, but fail
ed. The females, like the males, have the wing tipped with
black, but unlike them, both above and below the body, the
ends of the feathers are edged with a beautiful golden
tinge. Eight hundred miles of the road Jiad been passed, and the
travellers hardly been out of sight of buffaloes. The
buffalo section commenced at Green river, and ended where
they left the Platte. Their habits, like the whales and sav
age tribes, are migratory, remaining for some time in one
place, and then suddenly disappearing entirely. The aver
age weight of the male is two thousand pounds, the female
something less. Their run, and grunt, resemble that of the
hog, but their bellowing is pecbiar, resembling nothing living.
They are rapidly vanishing from the country, and must con
tinue to do so, while they are increasingly sought after by
the whites and Indians ; stimulated so to do by the white
man's finery. The sMns only of the females are used for
robes, and the cows, too, are generally slaughtered, as then-
meet is more tender ; a fat one being delicious eating. Out
of the vast numbers they saw, not more than one in five were
cows, and not more than one in ten of these had calves.
So much for their destruction by the whites, Indians, and
still worse, the wolves, wbch destroy so many of their young.
They travelled twenty miles on the 28th, and camped b
the midst of timber, on the Platte, finding hardly water
enough to have supplied a common grist-mill. Only twenty-
five miles from this there was a much greater quantity run
ning on the surface.
This day there were thousands of buffaloes within range
of then- vision — a greater number than they had before seen

802 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
at one time, and were remarkably quiet, lying about like do
mestic animals, and frolicking sportively.
On the 29th they met an express of two men from St.
Louis to Fort Laramy, who told them that they would prob
ably meet the Pawnees before they left the Platte ; and
they would surely be robbed, if not murdered.
On the 31st, at nearly noon, the doctor was riding for
ward to look out, when he saw a smoke shooting up sudden
ly, in the distanee, but so dim that he could hardly decide
that it was more than a passing vapor. But it was repeated
at different points of the horizon, and he was convinced it
was a sign of danger. They stopped, arranged their packs,
and went on a few miles, when they discovered, two or
three miles ahead, a horse, apparently struggling to disen
gage himself from a fastening, which he finally succeeded
b doing, and shot off in an opposite direction. They con
sidered this a signal, and conclusive that they were in the
neighborhood of the Pawnees, who were also aware of their
approach. They examined their arms, and determined to
avoid them by travelling off the road till night. They had
ridden but about three miles, when they saw three savages
advancing, immediately in front. They went on without
appearing to notice them, when others, to the number of fif
teen, stole up behind them. The doctor turned, and made
signs to them to go back ; that he was in haste, and cobd
not stop ; but they continued to come on. Seeing this he
stopped, and told Saxton to open a pack, and give them
some tobacco, the last they had. He had hardly done
so, when one of the horses took fright, and ran with great
violence. He and Chapman pursued it, and with great dif
ficulty finally caught it, and were once more ready to move
on. But one of the savages, who had been very trouble-

TENYBARS IN OREGON. 303
some and saucy, stepped up to Chapman and demanded
some powder, which being refused, he pointed his gun at
his head. Fearing the consequences, the doctor ordered
C. to comply with the demand, and the Indian left them.
While, however, he had been talking, six or seven came
round the doctor and grasped his horse's head. He beck
oned Brown to him, and while he pointed his six barrel re
volver at them, told him to do the same, at the same time
motioning them to be off. As their visitors departed, they
fired at them, seeming to aim particularly at Brown. When
they were nearly out of sight, the men filled their pow
der-horns, and pouches, but had hardly started forward
again, when, to their chagrin, they saw a couple of sav
ages advancing towards them from the direction of the
village, another from the hills, and another and then another
from different points, till they were entirely surrounded, and
still others arriving on their fleet horses, well armed with
war clubs, tomahawks, bows and arrows, and whooping'
fearfully. Dr. W. cautioned the men to refrain from firing,
as it would be madness to contend with so many times their
own number. There was a great uproar and confusion,
while they robb,ed each of their captives of some article, such
as a blanket, etc. They obliged. Saxton, with his pack horse,
laden with many valuable papers, to go ahead, and Brown
to follow, with a warrior at his bridle. Poor Dr. White
brought up the rear. Refusing to allow the pillage of his
mails, one rushed furiously at him, and seizing a skirt of hia
coat, tore it rudely from his shoulder ; another came up and
stripped the remnant from his back, while a third uncere
moniously took possession of his vest. While engaged b
this melee, a warrior came suddenly upon him, and gave
him a stunning rap on the temple, while two of his fellows

304 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
each struck a blow on the top and back of his head. Each
of the young men then struggled for a like privilege, and
the senses of the victim were fast leaving him, when he saw
a huge brave rushing through the crowd with uplifted battle
axe, which he supposed would soon be buried in his brain.
But instead of this, while he was reeling to the earth, he
sprang forward and threw his arms around him, at the same
time embracing him with his knees, and shouting loudly
for help. The next instant two chiefs came to the rescue,
habing, and thrusting aside the young men, and stood over
the prostrate man, assisting to protect him from further out
rage. With this support, the doctor's first protector picked
him up, as though he had been an infant, and pressing
through the mob, placed his burthen upon a horse, and him
self behbd him, and in this way entered the village. At
this moment he woke to consciousness, and looking about
him, saw none of his party, and supposed they were all slab,
when, five mbutes afterwards, he discovered Saxton, be
ing conducted in like manner with himself. As they arri
ved to within a few yards of the huts, they were met by
numerous children, brandishing their little weapons, and
pointbg their mimic arrows at the prisoners, and dancing
about with the fury of young fiends. They were placed b
seperate lodges, and allowed no intercourse, while a long
and stormy council was held. They took a recess about ten
o'clock, and the white men were then permitted to see one
another, wble a feast was being prepared for them. It was
composed of very good materials, in the form of a stew,
which their cooks probably thought would please them, as
they were taken from their own provision bags, tea, coffee,
dried meat, and pounded corn, and although well sweetened
with sugar, they could taste the peculiar flavor of each. As

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 305
a medical man, Dr. W. might approve of compounds, but
he thought he should have preferred the bgredients of
this seperate, especially the tea and coffee. The feast
being ended, the captors collected their effects, distribu
ting the most valuable among themselves, and again went
bto council.
This time their gestures were not so furious, and their voices
less boisterous, than before. There was a sensible modifi
cation. At twelve the body again arose, the prisoners were
revisited, and their possessions again lessened ; after which
they assured them there was a party coming up, of very bad
people, and that they would certainly scalp them ; advisbg
them to depart immediately, bthough it was now mid-
bght. To this, notwithstanding they were subsisting on their
hospitality, the doctor put a decided veto, believing that
their wish was to get them off to the plains, and then set
the young men loose upon them. They urged, and he be
came more firm, till, seebg his inflexibility, they were not a
little embarrassed. *
About tbs time, Saxton was visited by an old chief, bear
ing a large package of MSS., evidently taken from a white
man, but would not suffer him to read any thing except the
wrapper, which was a kbd of paper used in the war depart
ment, and directed to Ton-ga-wan, chief of the Otto nation.
The Indian opened the bundle on the opposite side of the
lodge, and took out an United States passport, as it appear
ed by the light of the fire, at that distance ; a large paper
havbg ten or twelve seals upon it, and each with a name
attached ; a paper resembling a deed, and a French pass
port. He then folded them all together, after pointing to
the coat of arms on each, and putting them bto the envel-
20

306 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
ope, laid them under his thigh, and giving a contemptuous
laugh, left the lodge.
The chiefs went into a third council, which was remarka
bly still, as they were probably becoming sleepy, allowing
our little party to meet once more, and interchange their
feelings relative to their prospect of reaching the United
States, which they now considered rather dubious, as they
were robbed of provisions, clothing, and, as far as they knew,
every thing else. From tbs time, for two hours, all was
perfect silence ; but whether from the quantity of tea he had
eaten, or the blows on his head, the doctor was very wake
ful, till the crier passed round the camp, arousing its inmates.
They obeyed the call with great alacrity, and in a few mo
ments every lodge was levelled, and preparations were made
for a start.
The captives looked on anxiously, not knowbg what dis
position would be made of them. While this was going for
ward, an old woman stepped up and offered the doctor a
bark sack, containbg about a peck of corn. He received
it very gratefully, resolviflg, if ever he reached home, he
would give her a newspaper puff, however he might serve
the rest of her nation. But while he was reflecting upon
the "generous, pitybg nature of woman," to be found, in no
matter what part of the earth, his cogitations were unpleas
antly interrupted by her laying hold of bs only remain
ing blanket, and claiming it in exchange for the corn. He
was about putting an unfavorable construction upon this
act, when a man came forward and offered to exchange hor
ses with him — for his was standing near — at which his Mnd
preserver of the day previous interfered, maMng signs that the
white man's horse was worth two of his, driving him away,
with demonstrations that he was a very bad fellow. Not

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 30?
wishing to part with his horse* the doctor thought of him,
" surely you are a noble spirit ;" but before the first Indian
was fully out of sight, the " noble spirit" brought out a horse
not worth half as much as the other, and, remmding him of
former services, forced him to trade. His romantic musings
were effectually dissipated, and he concluded that the whole
nation were a set of rascally, reckless scamps. This is the
tribe among whom the accomplished Dr. Saturly, from El1-
mira, New York, a mission physician, was killed some eight
years since,

308 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

CHAPTER XVXII.
Departure — Prairie on fire — Strong wind — Raw corn — Thirst — Dreams
— Pool — Indians — Ruse — Living on raw corn — Big Blue — Grove —
Wild turkey — Lucky shot — Postponement of a feast — Sabbath — Bad
night — Indian and family flour — Nice bread — Frozen squashes —
Residence of Mr. Fish — Beautiful country — Westport — Mr. Brown —
Independence — Divine worshij) — Visit to the mission.
With a few refuse Indian ponies, and the dearly bought
bag of corn, Chapman, without a hat, and the rest deficient
in articles equally necessary, accompanied by three Indians,
our " forlorn hope" started for the hills, in the direction the
cbefs had advised them to go the night before.
The agent felt as though he had been well picked, and
like any thbg else than a United States government officer.
Indeed, lflhvas ostensibly so no longer, for the Pawnees had
robbed him of his commission. Their gbdes escorted them
a few miles and left them ; and the party had not proceeded
far, when they discovered that the prairie was on fire di
rectly behbd them. This had probably been done by the
young men, infuriated at not receiving a share of the booty.
It was the first of November, the wbd strong, and from
the north-west, while they were travellbg to the south-east,
driving the fire immediately upon them ; and the long dry
grass affording excellent combustible matter. They jour
neyed on till two o'clock, and then turned then- horses loose
upon the prairie, while they ate a few ears of dry corn,

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 309
which, as they were very hungry, relished much better than
they had expected.
But the horses were so thirsty that they would not graze,
so they remounted, the fire having gained rapidly upon
them during the few moments they had tarried. They
pushed on until between one and two o'clock at night, sb-
fering from want of water, of which they had not found a
drop, when, the heavy dews havbg somewhat checked the
fire, they determined to rest.
They had hardly laid down on the old buffalo skbs, gra
ciously given them by the Indians, when, through excessive
weariness, they dropped asleep. They had dozed but a
short time, when Chapman screamed out "fire! fire! the
fire is upon us !" The others started up, but laid down
agab, for the exclamation was caused by the feverish
dreams of the sleeper. But their sleep was bcessantly dis
turbed by visions of fire, Indians, and water.
At the end of an hour they were somewhat refreshed,
and, gbded by the north star, endeavored to keep to the
eastward, and morbng light soon came to their assistance.
The fire now gamed upon them, and they toiled on in severe
suffering, until eleven o'clock, when, to their unspeakable
joy, they found a pool of water. They drank as much as
they dared for three hours, the wind veering so as measura
bly to relieve them ; and as to the poor animals, they had
much difficbty to prevent them from injuring themselves
by excessive drinking.
At last they reluctantly moved forward, changing to a
north-east direction, hoping soon to reach their road, but
had gone only a few miles when they caught sight of Indi
ans, manifestly in pursbt of them. This, with their late
adventures, was heart- sickebng and discouraging. They

310 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
knew that they came to plunder them of their little remab-
i ng property, and their scalps. Poor Brown was intensely
agitated, and spoke tenderly of his wife and children. The
doctor cheeringly told him that they should have time to
despond when they were nearer their foes, as they were
nearly two miles distant, and that now was the time for ac
tion. They pushed directly forward as though they had dis
covered nothing, till they descended into a ravine, and wera
hidden from the sharp eyes of their pursuers, when they
turned quickly round the hill, and thus avoided them. Three
hours from this they suddenly, to their infinite relief, came
out upon the great Oregon wagon trail. They were all suf
ficiently grateful, but poor Saxton, like Columbus, fell upon
his face, and kissed the ground, and blessed the God of
Heaven. They travelled wearily, but gladly on, till three
o'clock in the morning, when the doctor, from extreme pain
b his wounded head, fever, and exhaustion from want of
food and water, was about to say to his compabons, "go
on, and if you can reach the States, well. I can go no fur
ther ! — but the reflection came that this would have a dis-
couragbg bfluence upon them, and that it was his duty, to
persevere as long as he cobd stand. A short time after this
they happily came in sight of a grove, a suitable place for
encampment. They tarried here a couple of hours, taking
more raw corn, with pure creek water, and were greatly re
freshed. For eight long days they plodded on, subsisting
upon corn, raw, boiled, and roasted. These days for the
doctor were full of pain, debility, and anxiety. His injured
head was in such a condition that he was some of the time
i n fearful danger of a brain fever. They could not make
rapid progress, as the Pawnees, on the principle that " ex
change is no robbery," among the rest of their favors had

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 31]
given them a colt eighteen months old, a one eyed two
years' old poney, and a poor, crippled old creature, unfit for
any service, in the stead of their valuable horses.
However, they pressed patiently on, till the ninth day
at evening, they reached the Big Blue, where, as they
entered a grove, they heard the wild turkeys "quit! quit!"'
b the trees above their heads. Having so long fed upon
raw corn, it now soured on their stomachs, and they were
in such a state, as to be actually an offence to themselves,
and were never more impressed with the idea that such
food was designed for quadrupeds of the baser sort, rather
than human beings.
Turkeys, that night, bore a prominent part in their dreams.
Brown and Chapman were up betimes, to get a shot at
them, with their last charges in their guns, which had now
been loaded over nine days. They stealthily crept along
to the best possible position, and endeavered to fire at the
same breath,af terwards declaring that they took aim,as though
their lives depended — and perhaps they did — on the result.
Brown's shot took effect, and down tumbled a turkey, and
here turned in the proudest possible mood, while Chapman
was in a correspondingly opposite. Thinking that the re
port of the guns might endanger their safety, they deferred
their repast till camping. Evening came, the turkey was
picked, and cooked with parched corn, and, although guilt
less of salt, was excellent. This meal changed the action of
their stomachs, and materially improved their condition.
The next day, Sabbath, they worked hard, and made twen
ty-two miles.
At night the doctor sat down, much fatigued, and, lean
ing against an old tree, gladly ate his handful of corn, drank
some cold water, and soon forgot all his troubles in sleep.

312 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
But he awoke at intervals, very cold, and on the whole, it
was a tedious night, with little sleep. The next day was
fine, and the country beautiful, though the grass was coarse
and dead, and the horses fared badly. The next day they
mired, and were obliged to leave their best horse. The fol-
lowbg was marked by no event, save meeting an Indian and
his family, of whom they obtained a turkey and a little flour.
They pressed down the river, and arrived at a Frenchman's,
where, with considerable difficulty, they bought another
small quantity of flour. Eight hours after they camped,
and, mixing some flour with water, baked it on withes,
twisted, and woven in the form of a snow shoe. They found
several frozen squashes, probably discarded by the Indians,
which they boiled, and thickened with flour, makbg the first
full meal they had eaten in twelve days.
Two days afterwards they entered the house of Mr.
Charles Fish, who was in the service of the Methodist Epis
copal Church, as blacksmith among the Shawnee Indians.
His lady kindly prepared them a noble repast of pork,
drid venison, potatoes, and bread. They departed the next
morning, havbg dismissed forever the Pawnee sack of corn,
which had become disgusting to their eyes as well as palates.
That evening- having passed through a beautifb, woody
district of country, they arrived at the little hamlet of West-
port, on the western suburb of Missouri.
Their reception from Mr. Boon, nephew of the distinguished
hunter, Daniel Boon, was kind and handsome. They here
doffed their Pawnee fixins for robes of another texture, and
spent the night at Mr. Geer's hotel, where they were enter
tained very pleasantly. The next morning they set out for
Independence, a distance of only twelve miles, where Dr.
W. had the happiness of meeting several old friends, and

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 313
also of attending divine worship, and seldom had the service
of the sanctuary been more grateful to him. Havbg been
favorably impressed with the external appearance of the
mission they had passed, three miles west of Westport,
the doctor determined to return and visit it. He found it
under the direction of Mr Berryman, with a school of not
less than one hundred members. Mills, and every depart
ment of mechanism was carried on with the assistance of the
pupils, and never did he visit a mission more flourishing, or
in better condition. The plantation contabed six hundred
acres, well fenced, and in a fine state of cultivation. He
here learned the death of Rev. Jason Lee, and obtained other
news of bterest.

314 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

CHAPTER XXVIII.
Outline of journey to Washington — Gracious reception— Thoughts of
home — Meeting with friends in New York city — Reach Ithaca —
Arrival home — Letter to the editor of a western paper — Decrease of
the Indian population in Oregon — Timbers of Oregon — Fossils —
Animals — Birds — Soil — Legislators of Oregon — Anecdote — Wrong
of the government in not extending jurisdiction over Oregon — Treat
ment of public officers — Treatment of Dr. White.
Dr. W. left Independence for St. Lobs in company with
Mr. Beach, an Indian agent to the Sacs and Foxes ; a gen
tleman from Charleston, a third in the employ of the north
western fur company, just from his post in the interior >
a Baptist clergyman, originally from the Genesee valley,
who had travelled extensively both in this country and
Europe, and a Catholic priest, professor in the university
at St. Lobs. The last two carried on several eccle
siastical discussions, which were very intesesting, from the
ability with which they were managed, and the excellent
spirit which was manifested, creditable to both their heads
and hearts. The gentleman from South Carolina, expatiated
largely on the virtues of Mr. Calhoun, with true southern
enthusiasm. The gentleman from the Rocky Mountains,
dwelt upon the novelties and advantages of the fur trade
in by-gone days, contrasting them with its present condition,
at the same time speaking warmly of the good resulting
from the exclusion of alcoholic drinks from the territory.
On the fourth day, at evening, they arrived at St. Louis, and

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 315
the doctor was not a little surprised at its wonderful growth,
during the last four years. While here, his old friend, Dr.
Phillips, from Ithaca, called and offered him a seat in his
carriage, and they together visted all the public places of
the city. There he took a steamboat for Cincbnati, having
on board Mr. George Smixer, bearing the body of his wife
to their former home, in Kentucky, for burial. He also made
the acquaintance of Mr.  , who, with his lady, was on
his way to Washington, to take his departure for his consul
ship, at Trieste. At Cincinnati he spent a short season with
bs brother, and then started up the river for Washbgton.
They had proceeded but a short distance, when the river
was completely blocked up with ice, and the passengers were
obliged to land, and take land conveyances. At the village
of  , below Pittsburgh, the doctor was glad to exchange
the lumber-wagon for a stage-coach, to convey them over the
mountains. The journey was attended with some hardship,
and considerable danger of upsetting, as several had already
done, at the expense of broken limbs, etc. The journey by
railroad, via. Baltimore, was speedy and pleasant, bringing
him to Washington, as he had ardently hoped, at the com
mencement of the session.
As this was the time of the great 54° 40' dispute, and
the agent so recently from the territory, bearing despatches
from its legislature, his reception was the more gracious. As
was his duty, he first paid bs respects to the commmissioner
of Indian affairs, the Hon. Wm. Medill, to whom he had pre
viously sent in his report. He received him with marked
kindness, and after a short interview, proposed accompanying
him to Mr. Marcy's, secretary of war. Both accompanied him
to the white house, where the doctor was presented to Mr.
Polk, who invited him to an interview with himself and the

816 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
secretary of war, at dusk, as he would then be at lei
sure. He then returned to his lodgbgs, scarcely repressbg
a smile at the seeming importance a four years' residence in
the Oregon woods had given him. But b the midst of kmd
and flattering attention from all quarters, he could not for
get his dear family, from whom, till this trip to Oregon,
he had never been separated, at any one time, exceeding
.a fortnight. Therefore, despatching his business as soon as
possible, with a heart throbbing with yearning emotions, he
started for his home in the lake country of New York. He
spent a night in New York city, where he enjoyed the plea
sure of meeting with several friends, and among them was
the sheriff of the county where he resided, and bs old
friend, Mr. McCormick, of Ithaca, with whom he travelled
from the city. They reached Ithaca the last day of the
year, from whence the doctor hastened to his little cottage
home, in Lansing, where he was once more clasped b the
embrace of his family.
Extract from a letter, written by Dr. White, soon after his
return, to the editor of a western paper :
" * * * All is right b Oregon, so far as relates
to the prosperity and contentment of those who have emi
grated to that distant region ; and notwithstandbg the b-
convebence experienced for the want of a proper circulating
medium, for an exchange of commercial commodities, yet it
is but just to say, I know of no people so generally pros
perous and happy. Indeed, sir, the universal expression of
the virtuous and intelligent part of the popbation, is, that
Oregon excels the world for health, variety of beautifb
scenery, certainty of good crops, excellence of water, and
water privileges, for abundance of the choicest quality of

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. ¦
salmon, and for strength and depth of soil. I know of no
people so generally, or so highly pleased with their loca
tions, or homes, as those of the Willamette valley. From a
nine years' residence there, I must pronounce it the most
mild, equable, and salubrious climate of which I have any
knowledge. Nor do I believe any population have suffered
so little from sickness, or had so few deaths b the same
length of time, since the commencement of the colonizing of
America. All portions of Oregon are distinctly healthy ;
most parts well adapted to grazing ; a district, as Captain
Wilkes so justly remarked, of the lower portion, sufficient to
sustain a population equal to that of New England, is admi
rably fitted both for grazbg and agriculture. * * *"
It is believed that no longer ago than the commencement
of the present century, not less than five hundred thousand
Indians inhabited the wilds west of the Rocky Mountains,
within the territory of Oregon. Even admitting this, how
sparse a population is this, in comparison with any por
tion of the civilized world. Dr. White, by the most careful
attention, in his official investigations in 1845, found, to his
entire satisfaction, that not exceeding twenty-seven thousand
aborigines were left, maMng a decrease, b less than half a
century, of nine-tenths. This astonishbg dimbution was
brought about by the introduction into the country, of the
white man and his diseases ; among the latter, that frightf b
scourge, the small-pox has made fearful ravages, and in many
parts the fever and ague, in the first opening of the forests,
and turning over of the prairie, has been still more fatal.
The woods of Oregon exhibit the two opposite extremes
more forcibly than perhaps any other country. The east
ern part is very sparsely timbered, and that of very stbted

318 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
growth ; the western is happily interspersed with prairie and
timber, the latter of very luxuriant growth. The variety is
quite limited; the red, and white fir, cedar, pine, sycamore,
alder, oak, white and black, hard and soft maple, ash, elm,
cotton wood, dogwood, crab, and elder, the latter of which,
grows, as Mr. Parker remarks, to a size elsewhere unknown.
The following comprise some of the natural fruits : goose
berries, strawberries, blackberries, serviceberries, cranber
ries, and Scotchcap, crab apples, wild cherries, wild peas,
and thorn apple.
The fossil kingdom affords small variety, the basaltic rock
being found in larger quantities than any other. Few speci
mens of real granite are found, and they scattered about in
ledges of a few hundred tons, and long distances apart.
Wbte marble is also semetimes found in the upper country ;
lime and sand stone finish the variety, except far to the north,
free stone is found in large quantities. Though strong indi
cations on the surface seem to suggest that Oregon abounds
in minerals, yet, from the slight observations thus far made
coal, iron, and platina alone have been discovered, and it is
supposed by many, that the earth has undergone such change
in the heat of volcanic action, that most of the mberals have
been reduced to a state of fusion, and escaped.
The buffalo, whose old trails show how numerous they
have been on the western side of the mountabs, are now
fast disappearing, the comparatively few there are left, are in
the eastern and upper portions of the country. The elk,
black-tailed and common deer, grizzly and black bear, three
species of the wolf, wildcat, panther, fox, hare, rabbit, ante
lope, racoon, porcupine, weasel, polecat, Squirrel, mountain
sheep, beaver and otter constitute the animals of the terri
tory. The birds, are the eagle, swan, goose, loon, duck,

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 319
brant, crow, hawk, raven, magpie, pigeon, wren, robin, swal
low, bluejay, buzzard, cormorant, gull, owl, bluebird, yel-
lowbird, and hummingbird. There are probably a few oth
ers, omitted in the above list.
The soil of the interior and eastern portion is light and
sandy, like Poland, bebg capaciated for grazing rather than
arable purposes ; while in the western and south-western it
is a mixture of clay, loom and sand, and alluvial deposit,
much of the soil partaking of a salicous nature, and is ad
mirably adapted to the production of wheat, indeed, no
country excells it in this respect.
The legislators of Oregon are selected from three classes ;
First, mission gentlemen, not clergymen, but those filling the
secular department ; second, the most enterprising and in
telligent of the western people, who have settled in the
country, with considerable property ; the third class are
principally those who have previously been for a considera
ble time b the fur companies, and have now settled b
the Willamette valley. They freqently, after the business of
the day, amuse the first two classes, with tales of by-gone
days, contrastbg their present situation with what it was
when they were hunting and trapping with the tribes of the
mountains. Joseph Meek — now in the states with the news
of the disturbances b Oregon — the first sheriff elected un
der the provisional government, and afterwards representa
tive ; a real wag, was famous for his wit, ready-mbdedness,
and especially for his ample fund of good humor and bra
very. He was once hard pressed by the Black Feet, and on
a tardy-moving mule, and his companions, bebg better moun
ted, soon distanced him. The bblets flew around his ears,
and through his garments, and spurring furiously, he shout
ed to his friends "stop! stop! hold on, boys! there is no

320 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
danger !'" But they pushed on unheedingly, distrustbg^his
assurances of safety, when occular demonstration so strongly
asserted to the contrary. Suddenly, muly received a flesh
wound, it stirred up his locomotive powers, and he exercised
them to admiration, for to the astonishment of his rider, he
overtook his company and passed them. As he was rapidly
leavbg them behbd, he cried, at the top of his voice,
" Come on ! come on, I tell you ! Ride for your lives !
They will kill every blood of you."
They were now more credulous than before, and strove to
obey him with all the speed of their horses. His escape
under Providence, was owing to the leaden touch received
by the sensitive plant he bestrode.
This legislative body have again and again petitioned the
congress of the United States to extend jurisdiction over
Oregon, making sensible, and even moving appeals, urging
the moral wrong of stripping the Indian race of their lands,
game and fisheries, without rendering compensation for what
is to them so valuable ; also of leaving American citizens,
who were encouraged to emigrate to that country, surround
ed by hordes of Indians without any protection from the
home government. The irritation on the part of the natives
arising from the whites pouring in, b such numbers, and de-
spoilbg them of their rights, often jeopardizes the dearest
interests of the settlers, and reflects great discredit on the
government, for not righting the wrong of the Indians, and
protecting her own citizens. No people, under the circum
stances, could have behaved more worthily, and none have
been, apparently, more coldly neglected. Indeed, govern
ment is accused of having been culpably remiss in the per
formance of her duties both to the Oregobans, and those
who have been there employed b her service. All such offi-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 321
cers as have even touched there, in the performance of their
official duties, instead of being liberally rewarded for their
faithfulness, seem to have received that which was not so
gratifying. Commodore Wilkes nobly braved the dangers
and difficulties of his long, exploring campaign, doing honor
to himself and his country, in developing the condition and
resources of Oregon. Immediately on his arrival at Wash
bgton, on a few, petty, malicious accusations, he was court-
marshalled, and it was gravely decided that he should re-
ceive'an open reprimand from the secretary of war.
Colonel Fremont, certainly one of the most intrepid
spirits of the age, has twice visited Oregon, and so far as the
public have been permitted to perceive, is deserving of the
bghest encomiums. On his return, a dejected prisioner,
from his post of danger, where he appears to have been le
gitimately placed, he is dragged before another Washington
tribunal. Here, what a large sum of money was ex
pended b " endeavors to blast the prospects, and blight the
fame" of this bdefatigable laborer for the public weal, and
he is professedly found guilty of treason. The president, not
at all concurring in this expression, and yet unwilling that
so grave a body should be dishonored, under his administra
tion, treats the subject in such a manner, that Fremont, in
disgust, throws up his commission, and retires forever from
the service of his country.
Dr. White, whose reports were treated in the most flat
tering manner by the commissioner of Indian affairs, in his
reports to the secretary of war, continued, with every dem
onstration of favor, the whole of his term — four years — in
his perilous, and arduous duties, in which, in the absence of
all aid from the government, he seems to have been entirely
successfb. He finally returned by the request of, and bear-
21

322 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
ing a memorial and petition from, the legislature of Oregon,
and was received at Washbgton with every bdication of
kbd regard, and as I find from a note in his possession, di
rected by the secretary of war, dated the 5th of January
three days after reaching his family, he is ordered back to
his agency as soon as practicable. And yet, on account of
a paltry sum he is obliged to disburse annually, to preserve
peace and qbetness between the whites and Indians, he is de
tained at Washington, on heavy expenses, for nine months,
to get a bill passed through congress for his relief, In
the meantime, some malicious persons, taking advantage of
his detention, and make such representations, as impair
his credit with the president, and he is given to understand,
that he is no longer required in the service. So he retires
from his thankless office, having retained it at the stupen
dous yearly salary of seven hundred and fifty dollars, for
the performance of laborious and onerous duties, while a
clerk at Washbgton receives from one thousand to fifteen
hundred dollars for six hours' labor per day, and living at
their ease. Every effort was made by Dr. White's numer
ous friends at the capitol, to double his salary according to
the unquestionable intimations held out by Mr. Spencer, sec
retary of war, under president Tyler, to the doctor, on en
tering the service, as will be seen by the followbg letter :
Albany, July 29, 1846.
Dr. Elijah White :
Dear Sir : Your letter of the 2 2d inst. was duly received;
and I regret that circumstances have prevented an earlier an
swer. In compliance with your request, I proceed to state
the circumstances of your appointment of Indian sub-agent
for the Oregon country.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 323
Soon after entering the war department, my attention was
turned to the condition of the citizens residing upon, or in the
vicbity of the Columbia river. They were not only without
any government to regulate themselves, but they were prac
tically without the protection of their own government, and
exposed to the encroachments of the British authorities
there, as well as to the attacks of the Indians.
In the then condition of our relations with Great Britain,
it was very important that our citizens should have some
known agent of the government, to whom they might look
for advice and some degree of protection ; and it was equally
important that the government shobd have some trustwor
thy and responsible officer upon the spot, to watch our b-
terests and bform us of every movement of the British au
thorities and of the Hudson's Bay company, and to bter-
pose, as far as possible, to prevent Indian aggressions.
While the subject was under consideration, both by the pres
ident and myself, you appeared at Washbgton and was in
troduced to me. We learned that you had resided at Willa
mette, on the Columbia, and in conversation with you, I
found you to be well informed on the subject, and that you
fully appreciated the objects of an agency there. After con-
sbtation with the president, and with Dr. Lbn, the distin-
o-bshed Senator from Missouri, who for years had taken par-
ticbar interest in the matter, and with their advice and sanc
tion, I proposed to you the appobtment of Indian sub-agent
for the Indians west of the Rocky Mountabs — that bebg
the only office b the power of the executive to bestow
which would at all answer the purpose in view, and you was
urged to accept it, and to raise as large a company of our
citizens as possible, to proceed with you, and settle b the
Oregon country. The insufficiency of the salary — seven

324 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
hundred and fifty dollars — was admitted, but it was the best
we could offer ; and, as an inducement to you to accept the
appointment, you was told that a bill had been, or would be,
introduced into the senate by Dr. Linn, in relation to the Or
egon territory, in which provisions wobd be made for Indian
agencies of a higher grade and greater compensation ; and I
think one thousand five hundred or two thousand dollars was
mentioned as the probable salary. You was assured, that if
such a bill passed congress, you would receive an appoint
ment to the highest grade of agency, and that you might
depend upon the support of the department, and the good
will of the president — and the utmost liberality consistent
with the laws, in defraying any extra expenses which they
authorized. Under these circumstances you accepted the
appobtment of sub-Indian agent, and I have no doubt with
the expectation of receiving an appointment of a higher
grade, and with a larger salary. The bill of Senator Linn
did not pass, and you was left in the place to which you was
originally appointed.
I bear testimony very cheerfully to the fidelity and zeal
with which you discharged the duties of your station, and
endeavored to accomplish the objects of government. You
succeeded in organizbg a party of more than one hundred
of our citizens to emigrate to Oregon ; and I have every rea
son to believe that your services were eminently useful to the
government, and beneficial to the settlers. I deeply regret
that it was not in the power of the administration, of which
I was a member, to render you adequate remuneration for
those services, and for the great labor and toil, and the de
votion of your time, to what was then deemed, and is still
believed to have been, objects of great public bterest. I

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 325
trust that the present congress will make a liberal provision
for the deficiency. Very respectfbly, your ob't servant,
J. C. SPENCER.
The above is b answer to one written by Dr. White, at
the request of the committee on Indian affairs, relative to the
circumstances of his appobtment of Indian Sub- Agent for
Oregon Territory. But the exertions of his friends were
defeated by a few heated partizans of the south, who,
as the bill, by a two-thirds vote, came up out of its usu
al ordeu, the last hour of the session, proposed an amend
ment, reducing the proposed stipend of fifteen hundred dol
lars, to seven hundred and fifty dollars, their organ swear
ing that unless accepted, he would speak out the remnant
of the time allotted, and thereby defeat the bill. The doc
tor's friends were silenced, and he, after his public expendi
tures were paid, obliged to accept this paltry sum for
defraying annually the private expenses of himself and
family ; while his opponents were receivbg eight dollars
per day, with all contingent expenses and franMng privile
ges granted additionally, by their own legislative enactment.
This handsome dismissal was received very philosophically,
and he retired to the bosom of his family, in Lansbg — the
little hamlet, only three miles from the beautiful Cayuga,
But, while the spot was so well supplied with natural beau
ties, it was wanting b others that would add to its attrac
tion. The place was b a much depressed condition, al
though surrounded with thrift, wealth, and, as has sbce
been demonstrated, public spirit. But this spirit was in a
state of inactivity, and the first exertions of the doctor were

326 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
directed to its arousal, and success crowned the effort far
beyond what might have been anticipated.
The house of God, a neat brick church, was first painted
within and without, handsomely fenced, with other fixtures,
and corresponding improvements. Next, the public house,
the only liquor establishment, is purchased by sixteen gen
tlemen, at the expense of one hundred dollars each, and un-
er a strong constitution, becomes tee-total forever; is re-
pbred, and put bto a condition to be carried on in connexion
with a final enterprise, exceeding the others in magnitude and
good purpose. A large, fine building — formerly a church —
on a commanding site, is no longer to be abandoned and
run to dilapidation. Lansing, nothing wearied, redoubles
her efforts, and in a short time thousands are contributed to
fit up a literary institution, worthy the position and such a
people. And what undertaking more highly commendabl
than to provide "ways and means" for the free, liberal edu
cation of youth ? Surely none.
Upon the presentation of Dr. W. to the philanthropic, en
terprising association of I. O. of O. F., of which he is a mem
ber, which they receive with favor, he is offered an endow-
c ontemplated academy — a sum worthy this
onorable, benevolent order. And a special mark of favor
is a proposition of placing in the school, as its head, profes
sor Hopkins, Deputy G. M. of Cayuga District, and standing
correspondingly high in the esteem of his brothers, his abil
ities having been fairly tested by fourteen year's experience
as principal in so respectable an establishment, in the city of
Auburn. All this is being done by the Odd Fellows, with the
simple condition of continually retaining the privilege of pla
cing there their orphans, the little village being sufficiently

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 32*7
quiet and retired for the purpose of educating such chil
dren, entirely free from the vitiating influences of larger
places ; a temperance hotel and boardinghouse, good moral
society, a steady place of divine worship, health and scen
ery, with other advantages seldom combined in a sbgle lo
cation, are here united.
Thus Dr. White, after his truly adventurous life, respon
sible duties, and many dangers, finds hjjpiself settled, in
what has been conceded by travellers to be one of the love
liest of spots, in the exact centre town of the old Empire
State.

328 ' TEN YEARS IN OREGON,

SUPPLEMENT.

The following interesting report having been accidentally
omitted, and finding other valuable information relative to
Oregon, in Dr. White's possession, I trust the supplement
will not be regarded unfavorably, especially as it contains
matter highly creditable to the Oregobans, and useful to aH
such as purpose emigrating to that country.
Department of War, Office of Indian Affairs, Nov. 24, 1845.
*******
Two interesting and very instructive reports have been
received from the sub-agent west of the Rocky Mountains.
They present that country in a new and important light to
the consideration of the public.
The advancement made b civilization by the numerous
tribes of Indians in that remote and hitherto neglected por
tion of our territory, with so few advantages, is a matter of
surprise. Indeed, the red men of that region would almost
seem to be of a different order from those with whom we have
been in more familiar intercourse. A few years since, the
face of a white man was almost unknown to them ; now,
through the benevolent policy of the various christian church
es, and the bdefatigable exertions of the missionaries in their

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 329
employ, they have prescribed and well adapted rules for
their government, which are observed and respected to a
degree worthy of the most intelligent whites.
Numerous schools have grown up in their midst, at which
their children are acqbring the most important and usefb
mformation. They have already advanced to a degree of
civilization that promises the most beneficial results to them
and their brethren on this side the mountains, with whom
they may, and no doubt will at some future period, be brought
bto intercourse. They are turning their attention to agri
cultural pursuits, and, with but few of the necessary uten
sils b their possession, already produce sufficient in some
places to meet their every want.
Among some of the tribes hunting has been almost en
tirely abandoned, many individuals looking wholly to the soil
for support.
The lands are represented as extremely fertile, and the cli
mate healthy, agreeable, and uniform.
Under these circumstances, so promising in their conse
quences, and gratefb to the feelings of the philanthropist, it
would seem to be the duty of the government of the Uni
ted States to encourage their advancement, and still further
aid their progress in the paths of civilization. I therefore
respectfully recommend the establishment among them of a
full agency,- with power to the president to make it an act-
bg superb tendency ; and to appoint one or more sub- agents
whenever, in his judgement, the same may become necessary
and proper.
All of which is respectfbly aubmitted.
W. MEDILL.
Hon. Wm. L. Marcy,
Secretary of War,

330 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. Willamette, Nov. 24, 1844.
Sir — The Hudson's Bay ship Columbia, sailing in a few
days, via. Sandwich Islands, for England, by the politeness of
her owners I have the honor of again addressing you, and
certainly under circumstances most favorable and gatifybg.
Since my last, forwarded in March, aside from two or
three bcidents of an unpleasant nature, the colony and coun
try have been in a state of unusual qbetness, and the sea
son has been one of great prosperity.
The legislative body, composed of nine members, met on
the 24th of May, at the falls of the Willamette, and closed
their short but effective session in bne days ; having passed,
in due form, twenty-five bills, most of which were of impor
tance to us b the regulation of our intercourse. A few of
these laws I transmit to you, and would here remark, that
the taxes were b general cheerfully paid. The liquor bill
is popbar, and the laws of Oregon are honored.
The liquor act not coming in force under sixty days from
its passage, a few individuals — having clandestinely prepa
red, before its passage — improved this favored moment to
dispose of all they could with any hopes of safety. Of this
I was immediately notified, and hastened in from the Fala-
tbe plabs, all the mischief " as heretofore," being done in
and about the town at the falls of the Willamette.
Liquor was in our midst, as was but too manifest from the
noisy, vulgar, obscene, and even diabolical expressions of
those who had previously ever conducted in a quiet and or
derly manner.
This was plerplexing and exciting, as all professed igno
rance ; and many opinions prevailed .regarding the amount
manufactured, and the number interested, and especially re
garding the seat of mischief or point where distilled.

TENYEARS IN OREGON. 331
I resolved, at whatever danger or cost to nip this in the
bud, procured the call of a public meeting at once, and had
the happiness to receive the followbg expression from all but
one convened :
" Resolved, That it be the sense of tbs meeting, that Dr.
White, in his official relation, take such assistance as he may
reqbre, and forthwith search out and destroy all intoxicating
liquor that may be found in this vicinity or district of coun
try. P. G. STEWART,
Executive Chairman.
John E. Long, Secretary."
I started with ten volunteers early the ensbng morning,
and found the distillery in a deep, dense thicket, eleven miles
from town, at three o'clock, P. M. The boiler was a large
sized potash kettle, and all the apparatus well accorded.
Two hogsheads and eight barrels of slush or beer were
standing ready for distillation, with a part of one barrel of
molasses. No liquor was to be found, nor as yet had much
been distilled.
Having resolved on my course, I left no time for reflec
tion, but at once upset the nearest cask, when the noble vol
unteers immediately seconded my measures, making a river
of beer in a moment ; nor did we stop till the kettle was
raised, and elevated in triumph at the prow of 6ur boat, and
every cask, with all the distilling apparatus, was broken to
pieces and utterly destroyed. We then returned, in high
cheer, to the town, where our presence and report gave gen
eral joy.
Two hours after my arrival, I received from James Con
nor, one of the owners, a written challenge for a bloody
combat ; which ended last week in his being indicted before

332 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
the grand jury, fined five hundred dollars, and disfranchised
for life.
Six weeks since, an unhappy affray occurred between one
Joel Turnham, late from Missouri, and Webley Hauxhaust,
of Willamette, and serious threats passing from the former,
a warrant was issued, and Turnham, resisting with a deadly
weapon, was shot down by the officer ; for which he comes
before the grand jury to-morrow. Turnham expired at once,
being shot with three mortal wounds through the neck and
head, but with singular desperation fought and resisted to
the last.
So far as I understand the public expression, all unite in
acqbtting the officer, who has ever been a harmless, quiet,
good citizen ; while Turnham was regarded as a most des
perate and dangerous character all abroad, having left Mis
souri under circumstances most unfavorable to his reputation
and qbet here, where he has been particularly sour, irrita
ble and quarrelsome ; and was the more obnoxious as he was
reputed brave and generally too stout for his antagonist.
November 8th. Since penning the last, the grand jury
have unanimously declared no bill ; and here allow me to
say, having accompanied Judge Babcock to four of the courts
embraced in the circuit of five counties, I have not seen b
any country, such uniform decorum and qbetness as ha«
prevailed throughout at these courts. Much of this mild
ness, sobriety, and good order is doubtless attributable to the
absence of all intoxicating drinks.
The laws of this country, framed to meet present circum
stances, are taking deeper and stronger root continually.
And some are already suggesting, " notwithstanding our in
fancy," whether, if longer left without a mother's protection,
it will not be well to undertake to run alone.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 333
The resources of the country are rapidly developing, and
the expectations of the people are generally high ; the mild
ness of the climate and the strength of the soil greatly en
courage the large emigration of last year. For the last
twelve months,the mercury has ranged from ninety-six to thir
ty ; four-fifths of the time from eighty to fifty-five ; making
an agreeable summer and mild winter, grazing being good
throughout, so much so, that the jaded and worn down ani
mals of the poor emigrants fatted up, greatly to their sur
prise, before spring, without feeding or the least atten
tion. Crops of all kinds usually good, even to Indian corn, and
cheerfulness prevails throughout since harvesting. As state
ments have been made in the states derogatory to our soil,
allow me to say, it is believed, with the same cbtivation, no
country produces better wheat, oats, peas, barley, potatoes,
or any crops, save Indian corn, for which the nights are gen
erally too cool for a heavy growth. The wheat crops being
never injured by the frosts of winter or the rains of sum
mer, " as in the states," are remarkably sure ; nor as yet
have our crops been disturbed by flies or insects.
Wheat crops are heavy, as you will judge when I assure
you from simply turbng over the prairie in June, scattering
the seed in October, and then, with no further trouble than
passing the harrow over it, ten acres upon my plantation
grew five hundred and forty-one bushels and a half. The
river flats, containing much alluvial deposit, are very rich ;
the plains beautifb and verdant, being admirably watered,
but generally sparsely timbered ; the high lands well tim
bered and watered in many parts, the soil tolerable, produ
cing herbage for an abundance of deer, elk, mountab sheep,
etc. etc. The entire Willamette and Umpqua valleys, capa-

334 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
ble of sustaining a population of several millions, it is gene
rally believed cannot be excelled, as a whole, for richness of
soil, variety, grandeur, or beauty of scenery ; nor, consider-
bg the latitude, can be equalled in mildness, equabihty, and
agreeableness of climate.
Since last writbg, abundance of limestone has been found
at the mouth of the Columbia, and likewise in this valley,
conveniently obtained, and proves of an excellent quality.
The Rev. Mr. Desmitt arrived here in August last, bring
ing, as a part of his cargo, six priests, and as many nuns,
fine, hale lookbg girls, very acceptable just now, particu
larly as the Methodist mission is breaking up, and the half
breed Canadian daughters are rapidly multiplying.
Havbg no pilot or chart to depend upon, and his com
mander a stranger, he sailed in through the south channel,
greatly to the surprise and alarm of all on shore ; but with
out bjury or difficulty, not once touching, and reporting
abundance of water for the heaviest burden sbps. * * *
The sands are supposed to have changed and improved
the channel ; but of this I know nothing, and am not a little
skeptical ; and am bduced to attribute their success more to
the fine day and small vessel than change of the sands in
their favor, since Capt. Wilkes left. Capt. Couch, however,
who has now been passing in and out here for the last five
years, in the service of Mr. Cushbg, of Newburyport, pro
nounces it a better port to enter than theirs, and says, with
pilots, there will be little difficulty or danger.
Our exports are wheat, beaver, salmon, and lumber, for
which in return we obtain from Sandwich Islands sugar,
molasses, tea, coffee, and other commodities brought from
Chma, England and America.
We are much b want of a currency and market, Ameri-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 335
can merchants being as yet a slender reliance ; and in view
of the large emigrating parties of each year, we should be
greatly distressed for necessary articles of wearing apparel,
but for the commendable spirit of accommodation on the
part of the Hudson's Bay Company.
Could some arrangement be entered into for us to supply
the navy of the Pacific with bread, beef, pork, fish, etc., we
would thereby be much improved b our condition. This
might, and perhaps ought to be done, in view of the encour
agements held out for our people to emigrate to this country.
Should it not be convenient for our ships of war to come to
the Columbia for such supplies, they cobd be shipped to
the Sandwich Islands, if reqbred. But more of this another
time. Having just taken the tour of the colony for the purpose
of attending the courts and visitbg the schools, it affords me
pleasure to say I felt amply rewarded. I found throughout
health, cheerfulness, and prosperity, and certainly most sur
prising improvements for the short time since the settlers
commenced. The decorum of the courts I have spoken of,
and now have only to speak of the schools and Indians, and
I am done ; fearing I have already wearied your patience.
For the want of means, the Methodist manual labor Indian
school has lately broken up, and this is now occupied as a
boarding school for white children of both sexes. The
school is yet small, but well conducted, and promises useful
ness to the colony. The school at the falls of the Willamette
and Fallatbe plains, and likewise the one under the direc
tion of the Rev. Mr. Blanchette, Catholic clergyman, are
all small — numbering from fifteen to thirty only ; but are
all well kept and doing good. I feel solicitous on this sub
ject, and am saying and doing what I can to encourage

336 TEN YEARS IN OREGOIf
education, but, like all other new countries, the people need
and require their children much at home.
Since the unhappy affair of last spring, the Indians have
been unusually qbet, and the summer has been spent without
alarm. I sent my interpreter, Mr. Lee, to the Wallawallas
six weeks sbce, to make some presents to the chiefs, as a
' safe conduct to the emigrants down to this place. His reply
I transmit. I addressed a line to Mr. J. B. Littlejohn, who
is just down from there, and received the annexed reply.
All other statements are corroborative :
Willamette, November 1, 1844.
Dear Sir — It is with the utmost pleasure I undertake to
' give you what information I am able to do. I have resided
with the missionaries of the American board for two years
past ; I have known their hearts, and am well acquainted
with all they have done. Their influence among the Indians
is by no means small, or their efforts vain, as their condition
is very much improved, both in a spiritual and temporal
point of view. And, dear sir, your efforts among and for
them have been much to their advantage, and at the same
time not to the disadvantage of the missionaries, but greatly
to increase their usefulness among them. I have no doubt
you have labored with this motive in view. The Indians are
becoming civilized as fast or faster than any tribes concern
bg whom I am informed. Their anxiety for cattle, hogs,
and sheep, is very great ; leading them to make most com
mendable efforts to obtain them, and their efforts are by no
means vain. They have purchased a good number from
those who are emigrating to this country, by exchanging
their horses for cattle. Thus, while their horses have been
very usefb to the emigrants, they have gratly benefitted

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 33"?
themselves. They are enlarging their farms yearly — im
proving much in fencing, etc. etc. Quite a number of fami
lies are enabled to live from what they raise on their farms,
the milk of their cows and their beef. There is perfect qui
etness existbg between them, and I have no doubt this state
of things will continue to exist. Many things interesting
might be written, but time does not allow me to say more
at present. I am, dear sir, yours with great respect,
J. B. LITTLEJOHN.

Thus far the Indians have kept their treaties of amity
with me astonishingly well, and it is thought we now have
as much to hope as fear from them, if we succeed in keep
ing out liquor, which, by the grace of God, not a few of us
are resolved to do, though we do not pass unopposed, nor
slightly opposed ; and had it not been for that most salutary
liquor law, and the hearty co-operation of some of the friends
of temperance, with your agent, liquor would have already
made ruinous havoc among us.
The Methodist mission, though we have not agreed on all
subjects, have behaved very properly on this. And to
them, in connexion with the honorable Hudson's Bay Com
pany, will the colony be lastingly indebted for their com
mendable efforts.
Since my first arrival I have not received a line from the
department save my last year's report. As my condition is
peculiar, and not a little embarrassing, I should feel greatly
obliged for an expression, and further instruction from the
department. I have had, as may well be judged, much to
contend with, in the midst of lawless Indians of so many
different tribes, and lawless whites of so many nations —
22

838 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
gome bred upon old whaleships, others in the Rocky Moun
tains, and hundreds on the frontiers of Missouri. I have at
times waded in deep perplexing difficulties, but am now
greatly relieved by the colonial government, which as yet
is well administered. By reason of this Inow have less to da,
and sail in smoother seas, meeting with less opposition than
heretofore — my proper official relations towards the whites
and Indians bebg better understood.
I have the honor to be, very respectfully; your ob't and
humble servant, E. WHITE,
Sub- Agent Indian Affairs, W. R. M.
Hon. J. M. Porter, Secretary of War; Washbgton.

Oregon City, March 4, 1845,
Dr. E. White:
Sir — In compliance with the request you made of me, that
I should notice and communicate to you whatever, I might1
deem of interest during my visit, in your employ, to the va
rious Indian tribes east of the Cascade mountabs, bearing to
them presents with admonitions and advice from you in order
to secure the safety and peace of the emigrants in their pas
sage through their country,
The following is submitted :
First. The Nez Perces. Ydur acquabtance with this
promising people renders it unnecessary for me to speak of
their general character. I would simply remark, that their
anxieties to become a civilized and literary nation, have suf
fered no abatement since I left them b March last, after hav
bg spent the winter with them most pleasantly, as teacher,
b the employ of Rev. H. H. Spaldbg, missionary. Ellis.

TEN YEARB IN OREGON. 339
With most of the chiefs, was absent, having gone to meet'
the emigrants, tr.eh in the vicinity of fort Boisie, with a view1
to furnish them provisions, and trade them horses for cattle.
You are aware of their eagerness to obtain domestic stock;
and farming utensils, which I regard as one df the most in
teresting facts connected with Indian affairs' west of the1
Rocky Mountains. Avarice is doubtless the ruling passion
of most Indians, and forms a capital upon which those enga
ged in Indian affairs may operate for good or evil. With the"
Nez Perces, it has thus far, been turned to good account, ef
fecting results as beneficial to the whites and more salutary
to the natives themselves, on this side the mountains, than
has been effected on the other side by military 'force: Such
is the prevalence of this " love of gab" amongst the Indi
ans, that all efforts to control them by motives' held out to
any other passion, must prove ineffectual, at least, while we
are unable to awe them by martial parade.
The bdividual difficulties existing between James, Timo
thy, and others, b relation to their claims on ttie valley, about
the Clearwater mission, are, for the time, put tb rest by the
promise that you will visit them soon, arid'havfe the matter'
properly adjusted. Their crops this year have been abun
dant- and they have furnished the emigrants' large supplies'
of provisions, which I am happy to say, were bartered b
good faith, and the trade conducted with mu6h' amity and'
good feelbg on both sides, while I have to 'regret that Ellis"
and his people, were unable to procure cattietb any extent,
worthy of notice. The presents were received, and the ad
vice heard with a most respectful attention!
Second. The Keyuses are also manifesting a spirit of
enterprise, highly commendable. They too, have raised
much grain and potatoes, and are tradbg freely with the

340 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
emigrants. A number of their chiefs and principal men
were absent at the time, having gone b company with a
party of Wallawallas, to California, with horses to trade for
cattle. They have since returned, and I sincerely regret to
learn the failure of this, their first expedition of the kind.
The Spabards, and other whites, treated them badly ; mur
dered one of the most promising young men of the Walla
wallas, and the party returned without effecting the object
of their trip. What bfluence this affair will have upon the
conduct of these two tribes b reference to the next emigra
tion passbg through their countries, time alone must deter
mine. The lawless bands along the river, from fort Wallawalla,
to the Dalles, are still troublesome to emigrants ; and the em
igrants are still very imprudent in breaking off bto small
parties, just when they should remain united. The Indians
are tempted by the unguarded and defenceless state of the
emigrants, and avail themselves of the opportunity, to grat
ify their cupidity. Here allow me to suggest a thought.
These robbers furnish us a true miniature likeness of the
whole Indian population, whenever they fail to obtain such
things as they wish in exchange for such as they have to
give. These are robbers now, because they have nothing to
give ; all others will be robbers when, with what they have
to give, they cannot procure what they wish. I am satis
fied of the correctness of this conclusion, from all that I have
witnessed of Indian character, even among the praiseworthy
Nez Perces. And should the Government of the United
States withhold her protection from her subjects in Oregon,
they will be under the necessity of entering into treaty stip
ulations with the Indians, in violation of the laws of the

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 341
United States, as preferable to a resort to force of arms.
Hitherto, the emigrants have had no serious difficulty in pas
sbg through the territory of these tribes ; but that their
passage is becoming more and more a subject of interest to
the Indians, is abundantly manifest. They collect about the
road from every part of the country, and have looked on
with amazement ; but the novelty of the scene is fast loosing
its power to hold in check their baser passions. The next
emigration will in all probability, call forth developments of
Indian character, which have been almost denied an exist
ence amongst these people. Indeed, sir, had you not taken
the precaution to conciliate their good feelings and friend
ship towards the whites, just at the time they were meeting
each other, it is to be doubted whether there had not been
some serious difficulties. Individuals on both sides have
been mutually provoked and exasperated during the passage
of each emigration, and these cases are constantly multiply-
bg. Much prudence is required on the part of the whites,
and unfortunately, they have very little by the time they
reach the Columbia valley. Some of the late emigrants,
loosing their horses, and very naturally supposmg them sto
len by the Indians, went to the bands of horses owned by
the Indians and took as many as they wished.
You are too well acquainted with Indians to suppose that
such a course can be persisted in without producing serious
results. I am aware that tbs is looMng at the dark side ;
but, sir, perhaps it is wisdom to look at that side when it is
more than half turned towards us, if, by looMng, we can
find some way to turn it back again. I look to Ellis, and
the speedy action of the general government of the Ubted
States, as the brightest features in the prospect now before

,342 TEN TEARS IN OREGON.
us. Your knowledge of my situation and circumstances,
render any apology unnecessary for this imperfect scroll.
I remain your humble servant,
H. A.. G. LEE.
Br. E. White,
Sub-agent Indian affairs, W. R. M.

Fallatine Plains, Nov. 2, 1844.
Dear Sir — Your communication of the 20th October,
1 844, was duly received, and a press of business has delayed
my reply till now.
In relation to the subject of enquiry contabed in your
letter — being the natural resources of Oregon — J can truly
say that I entertain a very high opinion of the great and de
cided advantages bestowed by nature upon this most inter
esting and beautiful portion of our globe.
Our facilities for commercial enterprise are most decided,
as the rapidly increasing commerce of the great Pacific lies
at our very door. The climate of this country is more equa
ble, subject to fewer extremes than any, perhaps, in the
world. I have been here about one year, and have found it
most delightful, and I can truly say that it is the most
healthy country I have ever lived in. During the present
year, I have scarcely heard of a case of fever in the whole
country. The timber of Oregon is bdeed most superior,
and constitutes a large portion of its wealth ; and we have
not only the tallest, finest timber in the world, but we have
every where water power to any desirable extent, sbtable
for propelling all, Mnds of machinery.
The soil of this country is most excellent, and can be pre
pared and cultivated with less labor than that of any other
country. Wheat is the great staple of the world ; and as a

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 343
wheat-growing country, this ranks in the very first class.
The crop is not only of the best quality, but is always large '•
and there is no such occurrence as a failure in the wheat
crop. For potatoes, melons, turnips, and garden vegetables
-generally, our soil is superior. Indian corn does not succeed
well, and in fact we have no use for it, as our cattle live all
the year upon the natural pastures of the country. Since I
have been here, I have myself been engaged in farming oc
cupations, and I have been astonished at the very small
amount of labor required to, cultivate a farm. Potatoes are
planted, and nothing more is done to them until they are
ready for diggbg ; when they are not dug, but generally
turned up with the plow. Peas are sown broad-cast, like
wheat, and are neither staked nor cultivated, and produce in
,great abundance. Plowbg is done here from the month
of September until July, and wheat is sown from October
to May ; and potatoes are planted in March, April, and May.
A team of two horses, with a very light, easy plow, can
break prairie land ; but a team of two yoke of oxen is most
generally used. I am informed that timothy, clover, and
blue grass all grow well in the soil of Oregon.
For pasturage this country is pre-eminent. Horses, cattle,
and sheep reqbre neither feed nor shelter, and keep fat all
tjie year round. H°gs are raised here with partial feeding,
and pork is generally fattened upon wheat, and finer pork I
never saw anywhere.
I omitted to mention in its appropriate place that our har
vesting commences about the 20th of July, and continues
throughout the month of August ; and during the present
year we had no rain from about the 1st of July to the 15th
October, so that we had the finest weather for saving our
crops imagbable.

344 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
One thing that strikes the beholder of this country with
greatest force, is the unsurpassable beauty of its scenery.
We have snow-clad mountains, beautiful valleys, pure, rapid
streams running over pebbly beds, with numerous cascades
and waterfalls, and trees of superior grandeur and beauty.
The government of Oregon his grown up from necessity ;
and perhaps no new organization has been adopted and sus
tained with such unanimity and good order. Every circum
stance has tended to strengthen it. I attended the last term
of the circuit courts in most of the counties, and I found
great respect shown to judicial authority every where ; and
did not see a solitary drunken juryman, or witness, or spec
tator. So much industry, good order, and sobriety, I have
never observed in any community. Our population seem to
be exceedingly enterprising, and are making rapid progress
to comfort and wealth. As yet, we have had no murders,
no robberies, thefts, or felonies of any kind, except one as
sault with intent to kill. Our grand jurors have exhibited
very laudable assiduity in discharging their duties, and crim
inals here will meet with certain and prompt punishment.
Nature has displayed here her most magnificent powers, and
our country has its full share of natural advantages. Our
prospects are most brilliant. If we can keep out intoxica
tion, and we will do it, half a century will not roll away be
fore there will exist in Oregon one of the most industrious,
virtuous, free, and commercial nations in the world.
I have already protracted this communication beyond its
appropriate length, and will now close it by subscribing
myself, Yours, etc.
PETER H. BURNETT.
Dr. E. White.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 346
Whereas the people of Oregon, now occupying one of the
most beautiful and interesting portions of the globe, are
placed in the most critical and responsible position ever filled
by men, owing, as they do, important duties to themselves,
to their country, to posterity, and to mankind, as the foun
ders of a new government and a young nation ; and whereas
the introduction, distillation, or sale of ardent spirits, under
the circumstances in which we are placed, would bring
withering ruin upon the prosperity and prospects of this
bteresting and rising community, by involving us in idle and
dissolute habits, inviting hither swarms of the dissipated b-
habtants of other countries, checking emigration, destroying
the industry of the country, bringing upon us the swarms of
savages now in our midst, interrupting the orderly and
peaceable administration of justice, and in a word producbg
and perpetuating increasing and untold miseries that no mind
can rightly estimate : therefore,
Be it enacted by the Legislative Committee of Oregon, as
follows:
Article I.
Sec. 1. That if any person shall hereafter import or b-
troduce any ardent spirits into Oregon, with intent to sell,
barter, or trade the same, and shall offer the same for sale,
barter, or trade, he shall be fined the sum of fifty dollars for
each and every such offence, which may be recovered by in
dictment or by trial before a justice of the peace, without
the form of pleading.
Sec. 2. That if any person shall hereafter sell, barter,
or trade any ardent spirits of any kind whatever, directly or
indirectly, to any person b Oregon, he shall forfeit and pay

346 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
the sum :of twenty dollars for each and every such sale,
barter, or trade, to be recovered by, indictment in the circuit
court, or before a justice of the peace, without the form of
pleading. Sec. 3. That if any person shall ;hereafter establish or
carry on a manufactory or distillery, of ardent spirits in Or
egon, he shall be subject to be indicted before the circuit
court as for a nbsance ; and if convicted, he shall be fined
the sum of , one hundred dollars, and the court shall issue
an order to the sheriff, directing him to seize and destrpy
,t*he distilling apparatus, wbch order the, sheriff shall exe
cute. Sec. ,4. That it shall be the duty.pf all sheriffs, judges,
justices, constables, and other officers, when they have rea
son to believe, that. this act has been violated, to give notice
jitereof to some justice of the peg.ce, or judge of a court,
who shall immediately issue his warrant and cause the of
fending party to be arrested, and, if such officer has juris
diction to try such case, shall proceed to try suGh offender
without delay, and give judgement accordingly ; but, if such
officer have not jurisdiction to try the case, he shall, if the
party be guilty, bind him over to appear before the next cir
cuit court of the proper county.
Sec. 5. That all sales, barters, or trades, made under
color of gifts or otherwise, with an. intention to evade this
act, shall be deemed a violation of the same ; and all fines
and penalties recovered under this act shall go into the gen
eral treasury ; and all officers receiving the same shall pay-
over to the sheriff, whose duty it shall, be to pay the same
bto the treasury.
Sec. 6. That tbs act shall not ;be so , construed as to

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. .3(4^
prevent any practicing physician from selling such liquors
for medicine, not to exceed one gallon at one time.
Sec- 7. That the clerk shall make out a copy of this
.act, and, put the same up in Oregon City as soon as practi
cable. Sec. 8. That this act shall take effect within sixty, days
from and after its passage.
, Passed 24th June, 1 8,4,4. M- M- McARXER,,. Speaker.
.Attest — J. E. Long,. Clerk.

.An Act to. provide fpr.ways.an,d means.
Re ,%t enacted by the 'Legislative ^Committee of Oregon as
follows:
Article 1.
Sec. 1. That in order to raise a revenue for the pur
pose of defraying the expenses of the government, there
shall be levied and collected a tax of one-eighth of one per
cent, upon the following property, at a fair valuation, to-
wit : — All merchandise brought bto this country for sale ;
improvements in town lots ; mills, pleasure carriages, clocks,
watches, horses, mules, cattle, and hogs.
Sec. 2. All male citizens over the age of twenty-one
years, being a descendant of a white man, shall be subject
to pay a poll tax of fifty cents. —
Sec. 3. That it shall be the duty of the collector of rev
enue to require of each and every merchant of Oregon to
give him a statement of the amount of all merchandise on
hand, in writing, to be stated upon oath or affirmation, whidi
oath or affirmation the collector shall administer ; and said col
lector shall collect and receipt for the tax upon such mer-

348 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
chandise, which receipt shall serve said merchant for a
license for the next year, commencing from the time given.
And that when a merchant shall wish to renew his license,
he shall give a similar statement of all merchandise received
by him for sale in the preceding twelve months, and the
collector shall only require him to pay tax upon the amount
of said imports.
Sec. 4. That any person refusing to pay tax as in this
act required, shall have no benefit of the laws of Oregon,
and shall be disqualified from voting at any election in this
country. Sec. 5. That the sheriff shall serve as ex officio collec
tor of the revenue, for which he shall receive, as a compen
sation for his services, ten per cent, upon all moneys col
lected as revenue.
Sec. 6. That the sheriff, before entering upon his duties
as collector of the revenue, shall enter into bond, with two
or more good and sufficient securities, in a sum not less than
five nor more than ten thousand dollars, to be approved by
the executive, which approval shall be written upon the
back of said bond, and the said collector's bond shall be filed
in the office of the clerk of the court.
Sec. 1. That the collector shall pay over to the treasu
ry, on the first Monday in each and every month in the year,
all moneys that may be in his hands, and get the treasurer's
receipt therefor.
Sec. 8. That it shall be the duty of the tribunal trans
acting county business, to require the collector to settle with
said court at each and every regular term of said court in
Klackamas county.
Sec. 9. The collector of the revenue shall make full pay-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 340
ment bto the treasury on or before the first Monday in De
cember in each year.
Sec. 10. The revenue of Oregon shall be collected in
specie or available orders on solvent merchants in Oregon.
Sec. 11. That all acts and parts of acts contrary to this
act be, and the same are hereby repealed.
Sec. 12. This act to take effect from and after its pas
sage. M. M. McARVER, Speaker.
Attest — J. E. Long, Secretary.

To the citizens of Oregon:
Gentlemen — We take the liberty of informing you that
a person named " Henry Williamson," some time about the
15th of February, this year, took the liberty of erecting on
the premises of the Hudson's Bay Company a few logs, in
the form a hut, and wrote a notice upon an adjoining tree,
that he had taken a section of land there. This was done
without our knowledge or consent, withb a few hundred
yards of- a house occupied by one of the Hudson's Bay Com
pany's servants, and within the limits of their improvements.
As soon as we were informed of that proceedbg, we had
the tree cut down and the logs removed, in order to prevent
any future difficulty with a person who had in a manner so
unjustifiable, intruded on the Hudson's Bay Company's
premises. The Hudson's Bay Company made their settlement at
fort Vancouver, under the authority of a license from the
British government, in conformity with the provisions of the
treaty between Great Britain and the United States of Amer
ica, which gives them the right of occupying as much land
as they reqbre for the operations of their busbess.

350 TJSN YEARS IN OREGON*
On the faith of that treaty, they have made a settlement
on the north bank of the Columbia river ; they have opened
roads and made other improvements at a great outlay of
capital ; they have held unmolested possession of their im
provements for many years, unquestioned by the public offi
cers of either government, who have, since the existence of
their settlements repeatedly visited it ; they have carried on
business with manifest advantage to the country ; they have
given the protection of their influence over the native tribes
to every person who required it, without distinction of na
tion or party ; and they have afforded every assistance in
their power towards developing the resources of the country
and promotbg the bdustry of its inhabitants.
The tract of land they occupy, on the north bank of the
Columbia river, is indispensable to them as a range for their
flocks and herds, but otherwise of little value, being in part
bundated every summer by the waters of the Columbia, arid
in part unimproveable forest land.
Occupying the said tract of land by the authority of law,
and under the protection of the British government, they
cannot submit to the infringement of rights so acqbred ; and
we, as their representatives, are bound to use every means
sanctioned by the law which governs us against all trespass1
ers on their premises, until otherwise directed by orders em
anating from the Hudson's Bay Company.
Permit us to assure you, gentlemen, that it is our earnest
wish to maintain a good understanding, and to live on friendly
terms with every person b the country. We entertab the
highest respect for the provisional organization; and know
ing the good it has effected, as well as the evil it has pre1
vented, we wish it every success, and hope, as we desire, to

TBN YEARS IN OREGON. 35l
continue to live in the exercise and interchange of good offi
ces with the framers of that useful institution.
The advantages of peace and harmony, of the support
and maintenance of established rights, must be as eveident
to every member of the community as the evils flowing from
a state of lawless misrbe.
With these considerations before us, we feel confident that
every person who desires the well-bebg of the country, who
wishes to see it prosperous and flourishbg, will unite in put
ting down every course which may have a tendency to dis
turb the public peace, and in promoting by every means b
their power the cause of justice, obedience to the laws, and
mutual accommodation.
With a fervent prayer to the Divine bestower of all good
for the happbess and prosperity of every individual in the
country, we have the honor to be, gentlemen, your obedi
ent servants,
john Mclaughlin,
james douglass.

Vancouver, March 18, 1845.
Gentlemen — I am sorry to inform you that Mr. William
son is surveying a piece of land occupied by the Hudson's
Bay Company, alongside of this establishment, with a view
of taking it as a claim ; and as he is an American citizen, I
feel bound, as a matter of courtesy, to make the same known
to you, trusting that you will feel justified in taking meas
ures to have him removed from the Hudson's Bay Compa
ny's premises, in order that the unanimity now happily sub
sisting between the American citizens and British subjects
residino- b this country may not be disturbed or interrupted.
I beg to enclose you a copy of an address to the citizens of

352 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
Oregon, which will explain to you our situation, and the
course we are bound to pursue in the event of your declin
ing to interfere. I am, gentlemen, your obedient humble servant,
j. Mclaughlin.
William Bailey,
Osborne Russell,
P. G. Stew at, Esqs.
Executive committee of Oregon.

Oregon City, March 21, 1845.
Sir — We beg to acknowledge the receipt of your letters
— -one dated 11th of March, and the other 12th of March —
accompanied with an address to the citizens of Oregon.
We regret to hear that unwarranted liberties have been
taken by an American citizen upon the Hudson's Bay Com
pany's premises, and it affords us great pleasure to learn that
the offender, after due reflection, desisted from the insolent
and rash measure.
As American citizens, we beg leave to offer you and your
much esteemed colleague, our most grateful thanks for the
Mnd and candid manner in which you have treated this mat
ter, as we are aware that an infringement on the rights of
the Hudson's Bay Company in this country, by an Ameri
can citizen, is a breach of the laws of the United States, by
setting at naught her most solemn treaties with Great
Britain. As representatives of the citizens of Oregon, we beg your
acceptance of sincere acknowledgements of the obligations
we are under to yourself and your honorable associate for
the high regard you have manifested for the authorities of
our provisional government, and the special anxiety you have

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 353
ever shown for our peace and prosperity ; and we assure you
that we consider ourselves in duty bound to use every exer
tion in our power to put down every cause of disturbance, as
well as to promote the amicable intercourse and kind feelbo-3
hitherto existing between ourselves and the gentlemen of the
Hudson's Bay Company, until the United States shall ex
tend their jurisdiction over us, and our authority ceases to
exist. Wc have the ho?.or to be sir,
your most obedient servants,
OSBOBNE RUSSELL,
P. G. STEWART.
John McLaughlin, Esq.

December 8, 18 15.
Memorial of the Legislative Committee of Oregon, to the
honorable the Senate and House of Representatives of the
United States of America in Congress assembled, for the
establishment of a territorial government under the pro
tection of the United States :
Your memorialists and petitioners, the representatives of
the people of Oregon, for themselves, and in behalf of the
citizens of the United States residing in this territory, would
respectfully submit to the consideration of your honorable
body some of the grievances under which we labor, and
pray your favorable consideration of our petition for their
remedies. Without dilating upon the great importance of this terri
tory as an appendage to the federal Union, or consuming
your valuable time in repeating to you the oft-repeated ac
count of our agricultural and commercial advantages, we
would, with due deference, submit to your serious consider-
23

354 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
ation our peculiar difficulties as occupants of this territory.
As by treaty stipulations between the governments of the
United States and Great Britain, this territory has become
a kind of neutral ground, in the occupancy of which the cit
izens of the United States and the subjects of Great Britain
have equal rights, and, as your memorialists humbly con
ceive, ought to have equal protection — such being the facts,
the population of the territory, though promiscuously inter
spersed, is composed of the subjects of a crown and the cit
izens of a republic, between whom no common bond of union
exists. It may naturally be supposed that, in the absence of any
provision having been made by the two governments to pre
vent or settle any such occurrence, conflicting bterests, aided
by ancient prejudices, would speedily lead to results the
most disastrous ; particularly when it is considered that this
mixed popbation exists in the midst of numerous and war
like tribes of Indians, to whom the smallest dissensions
among the white inhabitants would be the signal to let loose
upon their defenceless families all the horrors of savage
warfare. To prevent a calamity so much to be dreaded, the well-
disposed inhabitants of this territory have found it abso
lutely necessary to establish a provisional and temporary
government, embracing all free male citizens, and whose
executive, legislative, and judicial powers should be equal to
all the exigencies that may arise among themselves, not pro
vided for by the governments to which they owe allegiance.
And we are most happy to inform your honorable body,
that, with but few individual exceptions, the utmost harmony
and good will have been the result of this, as we conceive,
wise and judicious measure ; and the British subjects and

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 358
American citizens vie with each other in their obedience and
respect to the laws, and in promoting the common good and
general welfare of Oregon.
Although such has been the result, thus far, of our tem
porary union of interests ; though we, the citizens of the
United States, have had no cause to complain either of ex
actions or oppression at the hands of the subjects of Great
Britain, but, on the contrary, it is but just to say that their
conduct towards us has been most friendly, liberal, and phi
lanthropic ; yet, we fear, a long continuance of the present
state of things is not to be expected ; our temporary gov
ernment being limited in its efficiency, and crippled in its
powers, by the paramount duty we owe to our respective
governments ; our revenues being inadequate to its support ;
and the almost total absence, apart from the Hudson's Bay
Company, of the means of defence agabst the Indians, who,
recent occurrences lead us to fear, entertab hostile feelbgs
towards the people of the Ubted States.
Your memorialists would further bform your honorable
body, that while the subjects of Great Britab, through the
agency of the Hudson's Bay Company, are amply provided
with all the munitions of war, and can afford, by means of
their numerous fortifications, ample protection for themselves
and their property, the citizens of the Ubted States are scat
tered over a wide extent of territory, without a single place
of refuge, and within themselves almost entirely destitute of
every means of defence.
Your memorialists would further crave your indulgence to
remark, that Great Britab has, by extending her crimbal
code to this country, guaranteed to every British sub
ject claiming his birthright a legitimate trial by the laws of
his country. We, as citizens of the United States, having

858 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
neither the military protection of our government, nor the
extension to us of the civil laws of our country, are forced
to the enactment and execution of laws which are not author
ized, and, for aught we know, never will be sanctioned by
our government.
Your memorialists would further call the attention of your
honorable body to the fact, that, as citizens of the United
States, we labor under the greatest commercial disadvanta
ges ; we have neither ships of war nor of commerce, nor
any navigation of the rivers of the interior ; and, for want
of adequate protection, no private capitalist among us can
establish a successful competition with a wealthy and pow
erful monopoly, possessing all the appliances of commerce,
and all the influence over the natives, by an early establish
ment among them. We are, therefore, dependant for a mar
ket for a large and increasing surplus, and for nearly all our
supplies, upon a single company, which holds the market
under its control.
Your memorialists, with a view to remedy the grievances
under which we labor, pray the national congress —
To establish a distinct territorial government, to embrace
Oregon and its adjacent seacoasts.
We pray —
For adequate means of protection from the numerous
Indian, tribes which surround us, for the purchase of territo
ries which they are willing to sell, and for agents, with au
thority to regulate intercourse between whites and Indians,
and between Indian tribes.
That donations of land may be made according to the in
ducements held out to us by the passage of a bill through
the United States Senate, at the second session of the twenty-
seventh congress, entitled,

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 35Y
" A bill to authorize the adoption of measures for the oc
cupation and settlement of the territory of Oregon, for ex
tending certain portions of the laws of the United States
over the same, and for other purposes."
That navy yards and marine depots may be established
on the river Columbia and upon Pugett's sound, and a naval
force, adequate to our protection, be kept permanently ia
the adjacent seas.
That a public mail be established to arrive and depart
monthly from Oregon city and Independence, and such
other local mail routes be established as are essential to the
Willamette country and other settlements.
We pray for the establishment of such commercial regu
lations as may enable us to trade in our own territory, at
least on an equality with now resident foreigners.
We pray that adequate military protection be given to
emigrants coming to us, either by the establishment of posts
upon the route, or by military escort.
And we pray that, in the event you deem it inexpedient
as a measure, or contrary to the spirit of existing treaties, to
establish a territori-il government in Oregon, you extend to
us adequate military and naval protection, so as to place us
at least on a par with other occupants of this country.
For the granting of which your memorialists will ever
pray. OSBORNE RUSSELL, Executive.
PETER G. STEWART, Executive.
J. W. NESMITT, Judge of circuit court.
M. M. McCARVER, Speaker.
Members of the Legislative Committee. — Jesse Applegate,
Medard G. Foisy, W. H. Gray, J. M. Garrison, Abijah Hen-

358 TEN YEARS IN 0REG0 N.
drick, David Hill, H. A. G. Lee, Barton Lee, John McClure,
Robert Newell, J. W. Smith/Hiram Straight.
Done at Oregon city, June 28, 1845.
Attest, J- E. LONG, Clerk.
U. S. Senate, May 21, 1846.
Amended Organic Laws of the Territory of Oregon, as adopt
ed by the people of that Territory on the last Saturday of
July, 1845, with proposed amendments.
The legislative committee recommended that the follow
ing laws be adopted : Article 1.
Preamble. We the people of Oregon Territory, for pur
poses of mutual protection, and to secure peace and prosper
ity among ourselves, agree to adopt the following laws and
regbations until such times as the United States of America
extend their jurisdiction over us.
Be it therefore enacted by the free citizens of Oregon
Territory, That the said territory, for the purposes of tem
porary government, be divided into not less than three nor
more than five districts, subject to be extended to a greater
number when an increase of population shall require.
For the purpose of fixing the principles of civil and reli
gious liberty as the basis of all laws and constitutions of
government that may hereafter be adopted, Be it enacted,
That the following articles be considered articles of compact
among the free citizens of this territory :
Section 1. No person demeaning himself in a peaceable
or orderly manner shall ever be molested upon account of
his mode of worship or religious sentiments.
Sec. 2. The inhabitants of said territory shall always be

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 359
entitled to the benefits of the writ of habeas corpus and trial
by jury; of a proportionate representation of the people in the
legislature, and of judicial proceedings according to the
course of common law : all persons shall be bailable, unless
for capital offences, where the proof shall be evident, or the
presumption great : all fines shall be moderate, and no cruel
or unusual punishments inflicted : no man shall be deprived
of his liberty but by the judgement of his peers, or the law
of the land ; and, should the public exigencies make it ne
cessary for the common preservation to take any person's
property, or to demand his particular services, full compen
sation shall be made for the same ; and, in the just preser
vation of rights and property, it is understood and declared
that no law ought ever to be made or have force in said ter
ritory that shall, in any manner whatever, interfere with or
affect private contracts or engagements, "bona fide" and
without fraud previously formed.
Sec. 3. Religion, morality, and knowledge being neces
sary to good government and the happiness of mankind,
schools and the means of education shall forever be encour
aged. The utmost good faith shall always be observed to
wards the Indians ; their lands and property shall never be
taken from them without their consent, and in their property,
rights, and liberty they shall never be invaded or disturbed,
unless in just and lawful wars, authorized by the represen
tatives of the people ; but laws, founded in justice and hu
manity, shall, from time, be made for preventing injustice
being done to them, and for preserving peace and friendship
with them.
Sec. 4. There shall be neither slavery nor involun
tary servitude in said territory, otherwise than for the pun-

360 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
ishment of crimes whereof the party shall have been duly
convicted. Sec. 5. No person shall be deprived of the right of bear
ing arms in his own defence ; no unreasonable searches or
seizures shall be granted ; the freedom of the press shall not
be restrained ; no person shall be twice tried for the same
offence; nor the people be deprived of the right of peacea
bly assembling and discussing any matter they may think
proper ; nor shall the right of petition ever be denied.
Sec. 6. The powers of the government shall be divided
into three distinct departments: the legislative, executive,
and judicial; and no person or persons belonging to one of
these departments shall exercise any of the powers properly
belonging to either of the others, except in cases herein di
rected or peimitted. Article II.
Section 1. The legislative power shall be vested in a
house of representatives, which shall consist of not less than
thirteen, nor more than sixty-one members, whose numbers
shall not be increased more than five at any one session, to
be elected by the qualified electors at the annual election,
giving to each district a representation in the ratio of its pop
ulation — excluding Indians ; and the said members shall re
side in the district for which they shall be chosen ; and in
case of vacancy by death, resignation, or otherwise, the ex
ecutive shall issue his writ to the district where such vacan
cy has occurred, and cause a new election to be held, giving
sufficient notice at least ten days previously of the time and
place of holding said election.
Sec. 2. The house of representatives, when assembled,

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 361
shall choose a speaker and its officers ; be judo-<.s of the
qualifications and election of its members, and sit, upon its
own adjournment, from day to day. Two-thirds of the
house shall constitute a quorum to transact business ; but a
smaller number may adjourn from day to day, and may be
authorized by law to compel the attendance of its absent
members. Sec. 3. The house may determine the rules of its pro
ceedings, punish its members for disorderly behavior, and,
with the concurrence of two-thirds expel a member, but not
a second time for the same offence ; and shall have all pow
ers necessary for a legislature. of a temporary government,
not in contravention with the restrictions imposed in this or
ganic law.
Sec. 4. The house of representatives shall from time to
time fix the salaries of the different officers appointed or
elected under this compact, provided the pay of no officer
shall be altered during the term of his service ; nor shall the
pay of the house be increased by any law taking effect dur
ing the session at which such alterations are made.
Sec. 5. The house of representatives shall have the sole
power of impeaching; three-fourths of all the members must
concur in an impeachment ; the governor and all civil offi
cers under these articles of compact shall be liable to im
peachment for treason, bribery, or any high crime or misde
meanor in office. Judgement in such cases shall not extend
further than removal from office, and disqualification to hold
any office of honor, trust, or profit, under this compact ;
but the party convicted may be dea'.t with according to
law. Sec. 6. The house of representatives shall have power
to lay out the territory into suitable districts, and apportion

362 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
the representation in their own body ; they shall have power
to pass laws for raising a revenue, either by the levying and
collecting of taxes, or the imposing license on merchandise,
ferries or other objects ; to open roads and canals, either by
the levying a road tax or the chartering of companies ; to
regulate the intercourse of the people with the Indian tribes;
to establish post offices and post roads ; to declare war, sup
press insurrection, orTepel invasion; to provide for the or
ganizing, arming, and disciplining the militia, and for calling
forth the militia to execute the laws of Oregon ; to pass laws
to regulate the introduction, manufacture, or sale of ardent
spirits ; to regulate the currency and internal policy of the
country ; to create inferior tribunals and inferior officers, ne
cessary, and not provided for by these articles of compact ;
and, generally, to pass such laws to promote the general
welfare of the people of Oregon, not contrary to the spirit
of this instrument ; and all powers not hereby expressly del
egated to remab with the people.
The house of representatives shall convene annually on the
first Tuesday in December, at such place as may be provided
by law, and shall, upon their first meeting after the adoption
of this instrument of compact, proceed to elect and define
the duties of a secretary, recorder, treasurer, auditor, mar
shal, or other officers necessary to carry into effect the pro
visions of this compact.
SecT 7. The executive power shall be vested in one per
son, elected by the qualified voters at the annual election,
who shall have power to fill vacancies, to remit fines and for
feitures, to grant pardons and reprieves for offences against
the laws of the territory, to call out the military force of the
territory, to repel invasion or suppress insurrection, to take
care that the laws are faithfully executed, and to recommend

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 363
such laws as he may consider necessary to the representa
tives of the people for their action. Every bill which shall
have been passed by the house of representatives shall, be
fore it becomes a law, be presented to the governor for his
approbation. If he approve, he shall sign it; if not, he
shall return it, with his objections, to the house, and the
house shall cause the objections to be entered at large on its
journals, and shall proceed to reconsider the bill ; if, after
such consideration, a majority of two- thirds of the house
shall agree to pass the same, it shall become a law ; in such
cases the vote shall be taken by ayes and noes, and be en
tered upon the journals. If any bill shall not be returned
by the governor to the house of representatives withb
three days — Sundays excepted — after it shall have been
presented to hi n, the same shall become a law in like
manner as if the governor had signed it, unless the house of
representatives, by its adjournment, shall prevent its return,
b which case it shall not become a law. The governor shall
continue in office two years, and until his successor is duly
elected and qualified ; and in case of the office becoming va
cant by death, resignation or otherwise, the secretary shall
exercise the duties of the office until the vacancy shall be
filled by election.
The governor shall receive the sum of per
annum, as full compensation for his services, which sum
may be increased or diminished at any time, by law : Provi
ded, the salary of no governor shall be altered during his
term of service.
The governor shall have power to convene the legislature
on extraordinary occasions.
Sec. 8. The judicial power shall be vested in a supreme

364 ten years in Oregon.
court, and such inferior courts of law, equity, and arbitra
tion, as may by law from time to time be established.
The supreme court shall consist of one judge, who shall
be elected by the house of representatives, and hold his of
fice for four years, and until his successor is duly elected and
qualified. The supreme court, except in cases otherwise directed by
this compact, shall have appellate jurisdiction only, which
shall be co-extensive with this territory, and shall hold two
sessions annually, beginning on the first Mondays in June
and September, and at such places as by law directed.
The supreme court shall have a general superintending
control over all inferior courts of law. It shall have power to
issue writs of habeas corpus, mandamus, quo warranto, cer
tiorari, and other original and remedial writs, and hear and
determine the same.
The supreme court shall have power to decide upon and
annul any laws contrary to the provisions of these arti
cles of compact ; and whenever called upon by the house of
representatives, the supreme judge shall give his opinion
touching the validity of any pending measure.
The house of representatives may hereafter provide by
law for the supreme court having original jurisdiction in
criminal cases.
Sec. 9. All officers under this compact shall take an
oath as follows, to-wit :
I do solemnly swear that I will support the organic laws
of the provisional government of Oregon, so far as said or
ganic laws are consistent with my duties as a citizen of the
United States, or a subject of Great Britain, and faithfully
demean myself in office. So help me God.
Sec. 10. Every free male descendant of a white man,

TBN YEARS IN OREGON. 365
inhabitant of this tertitory, of the age of twenty-one years
and upwards, who shall have been an inhabitant of this ter
ritory at the time of its organization, shall be entitled to
vote at the election of officers, civil and military, and be eli
gible to any office in the territory : Provided, that all per
sons of the desciiption entitled to vote by the provisions of
this section, who shall emigrate to this territory after organi
sation, shall be entitled to the rights of citizens after having
resided six months in the territory.
Sec. 11. The election for all civil officers provided for
by this compact, shall be held the first Monday in June an
nually. Article III.
Land Law.
Section 1. Any person now holding, or hereafter wish
ing to establish a claim to land in this territory, shall desig
nate the extent of his claim by natural boundaries or by
marks at the corners and upon the lines of such cl im, and
have the extent and boundaries of said claim recorded in the
office of the territorial i ecorder, in a book to be kept by him
for that purpose, within twenty days from the time of mark
ing said claim: Provided, that those who shall be already
in possession of lands shall be allowed twelve months from
the passage of this act to file a description of his claim in the
recorder'^ office: And provided fuither, that the said claim
ant shall state in his record the t-ize, shape, and locality of
such claim, and give the names of the adjoining claimants ;
and the recorder may require the applicant for such record
to be made to answer, on his oath, touching the facts.
Sec. 2. All claimants shall withb six months from the

TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

time of recording their claims, make permanent improve
ments upon the same by building or enclosing, and also be
come an occupant upon said claim within one year from the
date of such record, or, in case not occupied, the person
holding said claim shall pay into the treasury the sum of
five dollars annually, and in case of failure to occupy, or on
failure of payment of the sum above stated, the claim shall
be considered as abandoned : Provided, that no non-resi
dent of this territory shall have the benefit of this law : And
provided further, that any resident of this territory, absent
on private business for two years, may hold his claim by
paying five dollars annually to the treasury.
Sec. 3. No individual shall be allowed to hold a claim of
more than one square mile, or six hundred and forty acres,
in a square or oblong form, according to the natural situa
tion of the premises ; nor shall any individual be allowed to
hold more than one claim at the same time. Any person
complying with the provision of these ordinances shall be
entitled to the same recourse against trespass as in other ca
ses by law provided.
Sec. 4. Partnerships of two or more persons shall be
allowed to take up a tract of land not exceeding six hundred -
and forty acres to each person in said partnership, subject to
all the provisions of this law. And whenever such partner
ship is dissolved, the members shall record the particular
parts of said tracts as may be allotted to him : Provided,
that no member of said partnership shall hold a separate
claim at the time of the existence of said partnership.
Sec. 5. The boundary cf lines of all claims shall here
after conform as near as may be to the cardinal points.
Sec. 0. The officers elected at the general election held
on the first Tuesday in June, 1845, shall be the officers to act

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 367
under this organic law, and their official acts, so far as they
are in accordance with this compact, are hereby declared
valid and legal.
Sec. 1. Amendments to this bstrument may be propo
sed by the house of representatives, two-thirds of the mem
bers concurring therin ; which amendments shall be made
public in all parts of Oregon, and be read at the polls at the
r.ext succeeding general election ; and a concurrence of two-
thirds of all the members at said election, may pass said
amendments, and they shall become a part of this compact.
Oregon City, July 5, 1845.
A true copy of the original.

M. M. McCARVER.

Attest :
J. E. Long, Secretary,

Adopted by the people at a general election held b Ore
gon, the last Saturday in July, A. D. 1845.
Attest : J. E. LONG, Secretary.
Done by the House of Rejnesenlatives of Oregon Territory,
this 14th day of August, 1845.
Whereas the adoption by the people of this territory of
the amended organic laws of Oregon was an act of necessity
rather than of choice, and was btended to give to the peo
ple the protection which, of right, should be extended to
them by their government, and not as an act in defiance or
disregard of the authority or laws of the United States.
Therefore, Resolved, 1st. That, in the opinion of this house, the
congress of the United States, in establishbg a territorial

868 TEN YEARS IN OREGON
government in Oregon, should legalize the acts of the peo
ple of this territory, so far as they are in accordance with the
constitution of the United States.
2d. That Dr. Elijah White, sub-Indian agent of this Ter
ritory, be requested to present a copy of the amended or
ganic laws of Oregon to the congress of the United States.
3d. That these resolutions be endorsed upon said copy,
with the vote of the house adopting the same.
On the adoption of the above resolution, the vote of the
house was unanimous. M.M. McCARVER, Speaker.
Attest :
J. E. Long, Clerk.

I am sure I shall be excused in introducing some addi
tion^ matter relating to the Indians, and some of their stri
king peculiarities ; and before giving Dr. White's views of
the causes of the late disturbances in Oregon leading to the
late horrible massacre and present war, I beg leave to pre
sent a few passages from Mr. Farnham's travels west of the
Rocky Mountains, and also from Mr. Lee and Frost's work
on Oiegon.
Mr F. gives the following interesting account of a re
markable personage with whom he met in the wilds of the
west: " One of these trappers was from New Hampshire ; he
had been educated at Dartmouth college, and was, altogeth
er, one of the most remarkable men I ever knew. A splen
did gentleman, a finished scholar, a critic on English and
Roman literature, a politician, a trapper, an Indian! His
Btatuie was something move than six feet ; his shoulders and
chest were broad, and his arms and lower limbs well formed

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 369
and very muscular. His forehead was high and expansive ;
Causality, Comparison, Eventuality, and all the perceptive
organs, to use a phrenological description, remarkably large ;
Locality was, however, larger than any other organ b the
frontal region; Benevolence, Wonder, Ideality, Secretive-
ness, Destructiveness and Adhesiveness, Combativeness, Self-
Esteem and Hope were very high. The remaining organs
were low. His head was clothed with hair as black as jet,
two and a half feet in length, smoothly combed and hanging
down his back. He was dressed in a deer sMn frock, leg-
gins and moccasins ; not a shred of cloth about his person.
On my first interview with him, he addressed me with the
stiff, cold formality of one conscious of his own importance ;
and, in a manner that he thought unobserved, scrutinized the
movement of every muscle of my face and every word that
I uttered. And when any thing was said of political events
in the states or Europe, he gave silent and intense attention.
I left him without any very good impressions of his charac
ter ; for I had induced him to open his compressed mouth but
once, and then to make the no very agreeable enquiries —
' When do you start ? ' and ' What route do you take ?'
At my second interview, he was more familiar. Having as
certained that he was proud of his learning, I approached
him through that medium. He seemed pleased at this com
pliment to his superiority over those around him, and at
once became easy and talkative. His ' Alma Mater' was
described and redescribed ; all the fields and walks and riv
ulets, the beautiful Connecticut, the evergreen primitive
lidges lying along its banks, which, he said, 'had smiled for
a thousand ages on the march of decay ;' were successive
themes of his gigantic imagination. His descriptions were
minute and exquisite. He saw in every thbg all that sci-
24

3*70 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
ence sees, together with all that his capacious intellect, in
structed and imbued with the wild fancyings and legends of
his race, could see. I enquired the reason of his leaving
civilized life for a precarious livelihood in the wilderness.
' For reasons found in the nature of my race,' he replied.
' The Indian's eye cannot be satisfied with a description of
thbgs, how beautiful soever may be the style, or the har
monies of verse in which it is conveyed. For neither the
periods of burning eloquence, nor the mighty and beautiful
oreations of the imagination, can unbosom the mighty reali
ties as they live in their own native magbficence on the eter
nal mountabs, and b the secret, untrodden vale.
As soon as you thrust the plowshare under the earth, it
teems with worms and useless weeds. It increases popula
tion to an unnatural extent — creates the necessity of penal
enactments — builds the jail — erects the gallows — spreads
over the human face a mask of deception and selfishness —
and substitutes villany, love of wealth, and power, and the
slaugter of millions for the gratification of some royal cut
throat, in the place of the single-minded honesty, the hospi
tality, the honor and purity of the natural state. Hence,
wherever agriculture appears, the increase of moral and
physical wretchedness induces the thousands of necessities,
as they are termed, for abridging human liberty ; for fetter-
bg down the mind to the principles of right, derived, not
from nature, but from a restrained and forced condition of
existence. And hence my race, with mental and physical
habits as free as the waters that flow from the hills, become
restiff under the rules of civilized life ; dwindle to their
graves under the control of laws, and customs, and forms,
which have grown out of the endless vices, and the facti
tious virtues of another race. Red men often acquire and

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 37 1
love the sciences. But with the nature which the Great
Spirit has given them, what are all their truths to them ?
Would an Indian ever measure the height of a mountain that
he could climb ? No, never. The legends of his tribe tell
him nothing about quadrants, and base lines and angles.
Their old braves, however, have for ages watched from the
cliffs the green life in the spring, and the. yellow death in
the autumn, of their holy forests. Why should he ever cal
culate an eclipse ? He always knew such things to be the '
doings of the Great Spirit. Science, it is true, can tell the
times and seasons of their coming ; but the Indian, when
they do occur, looks through nature, without the aid of sci
ence, up to its cause. Of what use is a lunar to him ? His
swift canoe has the green embowered shores, and well-known
headlands, to guide its course. In fine, what are the arts
of peace, of war, of agriculture, or any thing civilized, to
bm? His nature and its elements, like the pine which
shadows its wigwam, are too mighty, too grand, of too strong
a fibre, to form a stock on which to engraft the rose or the
violet of polished life. No. I must range the hills ; I must
always be able to out-travel my horse ; I must always be
able to strip my own wardrobe from the backs of the deer
and buffalo ; and to feed upon their rich lobs ; I must al
ways be able to punish my enemy with my own hand, or I
am no longer an Indian. And if I am any thing else, I am
a mere imitation, an ape." The enthusiasm with which these
sentiments were uttered, impressed me with an awe I had
never previously felt for the unborrowed dignity and bde-
pendence of the genbne, original character of the Ameri
can Indians. Enfeebled, and reduced to a state of depen
dence by disease and the crowding hosts of civilized men,
we find among them still, too much of their own, to adopt

872 TBS YEARS IN OKEGOK.
the character of another race ; too much bravery to feel like
a conquered people ; and a preference of annihilation to the
abandonment of that course of life consecrated by a thou
sand generations of venerated ancestors.
This Indian has been trapping among the Rocky Moun
tains for seventeen years. During that time, he has been
often employed as an express to carry news from one tra-
dbg post to another, and from the mountabs to Missouri.
la these journeys he has been remarkable for the directness
of his courses, and the exceedingly short spaces of time re
quired to accomplish them. Mountabs that -neither Indian
nor white man dared attempt to scale, if opposing his right-
Mne track, he has crossed. Angry streams, heavy and cold
from the snows, and plunging and roaring among the gird
ing caverns of the hills, he has swum ; he has met the tem
pest as it groaned over the plains, and hung upon the trem
bling towers of the everlasting hills ; and without a horse,
or even a dog, traversed often the terrible and boundless
wastes of mountains, and plabs ; and desert valleys, tlirough
which I am now travelling ; and the ruder the blast, the lar
ger the bolts, and the louder the peals of the dreadful tem
pest, when the earth and the sky seemed joined by a movbg
cataract of flood and flame driven by the wbd, the more was
it like himself, a free, unmarred manifestation of the sublime
energies of nature. He says that he never intends again to
visit the states, or any other part of the earth 'which has
been torn and spoiled by the slaves of agricbture.' ' I shall
live,' says he, 'and die in the wilderness.' The music of
the rushing waters should be his requiem, and the great wil
derness his tomb.
Another of these peculiar men was an Iroquois from Can
ada; a stout, old man, with a flat nose, broad face, small

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 373
twinHing black eyes, a swarthy, dirty complexion, a mouth
that laughed from ear to ear, and always relating some won
derful tale of a trapper's life. He was particularly fond of
describbg his escapes from the Sioux, and Blackfeet, while
in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company. On one oc
casion he had separated from his fellow-trappers and trav
elled far up the Missouri into a particularly beautifb valley.
It was the very spot he had sought in all his wanderings, for
a retreat for him and his squaw to live in till they should:
die. It appeared to him like the gateway to the isles of the
blest. The lower mountains were covered with tall pbes ;
and above and around, except in the east, where the mornbg
sun sent in his rays, the bright glittering ridges rose high
agabst the sky, decked in the garniture of perpetual frosts.
Along the valley lay a clear, . pure lake, in the centre of
which played a number of fountains, that threw their wa
ters many feet above its surface, and sending tiny waves
rippling away to the pebbly shores, made the mountains and
groves that were reflected from its rich bosom seem to leap
and clap their hands for joy, at the sacred qbet that reigned
among them.
The old Indian pitched his skin tent on the shore, in a
little copse of hemlock, and set his traps. Havbg done this,
he explored carefully every part of the neighboring moun
tains for ingress and egress, 'signs,' etc. His object in this
was to ascertain if the valley were frequented by human be
ings ; and if there were places of escape, if it should be en
tered by hostile persons through the pass that led himself to
it. He found no other pass, except one for the waters of
the lake through a deep chasm of the mountain ; and this
was such that no one could descend it alive to the lower val
leys. For as he waded and swam by turns down its still

374 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
waters, he soon found himself drawn by an bcreasing cur
rent, which sufficiently indicated to him the cause of the deep
roar that resounded from the caverns beyond. He accord
ingly made the shore, and climbed along among the project
ing rocks till he overlooked an abyss of fallen rocks, into
which the stream poured and foamed and was lost in the mist.
He returned to his camp satisfied. He had found an undis
covered valley, stored with beaver and trout, and grasses for
his horses, where he could trap and fish and dream awhile in
safety. And every mornbg, for three delightful weeks, did
he draw the beaver from the deep pools into which they had
plunged when the quick trap had seized them ; and stringbg
them two and two together over his pack-horse, bore them
to his camp ; and with his long side-knife stripped of the
skins of fur ; pinned them to the ground to dry, and in his
camp kettle cooked the much-prized tails for his mid-day
repast. ' Was it not a fine hunt that ?' said he, ' beaver as
thick as mosqbtoes, trout as plenty as water.' ' But the un
godly Blackfeet !' The sun had thrown a few bright rays
upon the rim of the eastern firmament, when the Blackfeet
war-whoop rang around his tent — a direful ' whoop-ah-
hooh,' ending with a yell, piercing harsh and shrill, through
the clenched teeth. He had but one. means of escape — the
lake. Into it he plunged beneath a shower of poisoned ar
rows — plunged deeply — and swam under while he could en
dure the absence of air ; he rose ; he was in the midst of
his foes swimming and shouting around him ; down again ;
up to breathe ; and on he swam with long and powerfb
sweeps. The pursuit was long ; but at last our man entered
the chasm he had explored, plunged along the cascade as
near as he dared, clung to a shrub that grew from the crev
ice of the rock, and lay under water for the approach of hia

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 375
pursuers. On they came, they passed, they shrieked, and
plunged for ever into the abyss of mist."
* ******
" The trials of a journey to the western wilderness can
never be detailed in words. To be understood, they must
be endured. Their effects upon the physical and mental
system are equally prostrating. The desolation of one kind
and another which meets the eye every where ; the sense of
vastness associated with dearth and barrenness, and of sub
limity connected with eternal, killing frosts ; and of loneli
ness coupled with a thousand natural causes of one's de
struction ; perpetual journeybgs over endless declivities —
among tempests — through freezbg torrents ; one half the
time on foot, with nothing but moccasins to protect the feet
from the flinty gravel and the thorns of the prickly pear
along the unbeaten way ; and the starvings and thirstings
wilt the muscles, send preturnatural activity into the nervous
system, and through the whole animal and mental economy
a feebleness and irritability altogether indescribable. But
at Fort David Crockett there were rest, and food, and safety;
and old Father Time, as he mowed away the passing mo
ments and gathered them bto the great garner of the Past,
cast upon the Future a few blossoms of hope, and sweetened
the hours now and then with a bit of mformation about this
portion of his ancient dominion. I heard from various per
sons, more or less acquainted with the Colorado of the
West, a confirmation of the account of that river given in
the journals of previous days ; and also that there resides at
the lower end of its great kenyon a band of the Club Indi
ans — very many of whom are seven feet in height, and well
proportioned ; that these Indians raise large quantities of
black beans upon the sandy intervals on the stream ; that

376 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
the oval-leaf prickly -pear grows there from fifteen to twenty
feet in height ; that these Indians make molasses from its
fruit ; that their principal weapon of warfare is the club,
which they wield with amazing dexterity and force ; that
they inhabit a wide extent of country north-west and south
east of the lower part of this river ; that they have never
been subdued by the Spaniards, and are inimical to all white
people. Subsequent inquiry in California satisfied me that
this river is navigable only thirty or forty miles from its
mouth, and that the Indians who live upon its barren banks
near the Gulf are such as I have descrbed.
The Snakes, or Shoshonies, are a wandering tribe of Indi
ans who inhabit that part of the Rocky Mountabs which
lies on the Grand and Green river branches of the Colorado
of the West, the valley of Great Bear river, the habitable
shores of the Great Salt Lake, a considerable portion of
country on Snake river above and below Fort Hall, and a tract
extending two or three hundred miles to the west of that
post. Those who reside in the place last named, are said to
subsist principally on roots ; they however kill a few deer,
and clothe themselves on their skins. The band living on
Snake river subsist on the fish of the stream, buffalo, deer,
and other game. Those residing on the branches of the
Colorado live on roots, buffalo, elk, deer, the mountain sheep,
and antelope. The Snakes own many horses. These, with
their thousands of dogs, constitute all the domestic animals
among them. They have conical skin-lodges, a few camp-
kettles, butcher-knives and guns. Many of them, however,
still use the bow and arrow. In dress, they follow the uni
versal Indian costume — moccasins, leggings, and the hunt
ing-shirt. Nothing but the hair Covers the head ; and this,-
indeed, would seem sufficient, if certain statements made in

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 377
relation to it were true ; as that it frequently grows four and
five feet in length, and in one case eleven feet. In these
instances, it is braided and wound around the head in the
form of a Turkish turban. If only two or three feet in
length, it is braided on the female head in two queues, which
hang down the back : on the male it is only combed behbd
the ears, and lays dishevelled around the shoulders. The
female dress differs from that of the male in no other respect
than this : the shirt or chemise of the former extends down
to the feet. Beaver, otter, bear and buffalo skins, and
horses are exchanged by them with the Arrapahoes, and the
American and British traders, for some few articles of wear
ing apparel ; such as woolen blankets and hats. But as then-
stock of skins is always very limited, they find it necessary
to husband it with much care to obtain therewith a supply
of tobacco, arms, and ammunition.
From the first acquaintance of the whites with them,
these people have been remarkable for their aversion to war,
and those cruelties so generally practiced by their race. If
permitted to live b peace among their mountains, and al
lowed to hunt the buffalo — that wandering patrimony of all
the tribes — where necessity requires, they make war upon
none, and turn none away hungry from their humble abodes.
But these peaceable dispositions in the wilderness, where
men are left to the protection of their impulses and physical
energies, have yielded them little protection. The Black
feet, Crows, Sioux, and Eutaws have alternately fought
them for the better right to the Old Park, and portions of
their territory, with varied success ; and, at the present time,
do those tribes yearly send predatory parties into their bor
ders to rob them of their horses. But as the passes through
which they enter the Snake country are becoming more and

378 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
more destitute of game on which to subsist, their visits are
less frequent, and their number less formidable. So that,
for several years, they have been in a great measure relieved
from these annoyances.
From the time they met Lewis and Clark on the head
waters of the Missouri to the present day, the Snakes have
opened their lodges to whites, with the most friendly feel
ings. And many are the citizens of the States, and the sub
jects of Britain, who have sought their villages, and by their
hospitality been saved from death among those awful soli
tudes. A guest among them is a sacred deposite of the
Great Spirit. His property, when once arrived withb their
camp, is under the protection of their honor and religious
pibciple. And should want, cupidity, or any other motive,
tempt any individual to disregard these laws of hospitality,
the property which may have been stolen, or its equivalent,
is returned, and the offender pubshed. The Snakes are a
very intelligent race. This appears in the comforts of their
homes, their well- constructed lodges, the elegance and useful
form of their wardrobe, their horse-gear, etc. • But more es
pecially does it exhibit itself in their views of sensual ex
cesses and other immoralities. These are inhibited by im
memorial usages of the tribe. Nor does their code of
customs operate upon those wrong doings only which
originate among a savage people. Whatever indecency is
offered them by their intercourse with the whites, they avoid.
Civilized vice is qbte as offensive as that which grows up in
their own untrained natures. The non-use of intoxicatbg
liquor is an example of this kind. They abjured it from the
commencement of its btroduction among them. And they
give the best of reasons for this custom : — ' It unmans us for
the hunt, and for defending ourselves against our enemies :

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 379
it causes unnatural dissensions .among ourselves : it makes
the Chief less than his Indian ; and by its use, imbecility
and ruin would come upon the Shoshonie nation.' What
ever difference of opinion may exist among civilized men on
this matter, these Indians certainly reason well for them
selves, and, I am bclbed to think, for all others. A voice
from the depths of the mountains — from the lips of a sav
age — send to our ears the startling rebuke — 'Make not,
vend not, give not to us the strong water. It prostrates
your superior knowledge — your enlarged capacities for hap
piness — your cultivated understandings. It breaks your
strong laws ; it rots down your strong houses ; it buries you
in the filthiest ditch of sin. Send it not to us ; we would
rather die by the arrows of the Blackfeet.'
The Crows are a wandering tribe that is usually found in
the upper plains around the head waters of the north fork
of Great Platte, Snake, and Yellowstone rivers. Their num
ber is estimated to be about five thousand. They are repre
sented as the most arrant rascals among the mountains.
The traders say of them that 'they have never been known
to keep a promise or do an honorable act.' No white man
or Indian trusts them. Murder and robbery are their prin
cipal employments. Much of their country is well watered,
timbered, and capable of yielding an abundant reward to the
husbandman. The Blackfeet Indians reside on the Marias and other
branches of the Missouri above the Great Falls. In 1828
they numbered about two thousand five hundred lodges or
families. During that year, they stole a blanket from the
American Fur Company's steamboat on the Yellowstone,
which had belonged to a man who had died of the small
pox on the passage up the Missouri. The bfected article

380 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
being carried to their encampment on the 'left hand fork of
the Missouri,' spread the dreadful infection among the whole
tribe. They were amazed at the appearance of the disease.
The red blotch, the bile, congestion of the lungs, liver, and
brain, were all new to their medicb-men ; and the rotten
corpse falling in pieces while they buried it, struck horror
bto every heart. In their phrenzy and ignorance they in
creased the number of their sweat ovens upon the banks of
the stream, and whether the burning fever or want of ner
vous- action prevailed ; whether frantic with pain, or totter
ing in death, they were placed in them, sweated profusely
and plunged into the snowy waters of the river. The mor
tality which followed this treatment was a parallel to the
plague in London. They endeavored for a time to bury the
dead, but these were soon more numerous than the living.
The evil-minded medicb-men of all ages had come b a body
from the world of spirits, had entered into them, and were
working the annihilation of the Blackfoot race. The Great
Spirit also had placed the floods of his displeasure between
himself and them ; He had cast a mist over the eyes of their
conjurors, that they might not know the remedial incantation.
Their hunts were ended ; their bows were broken ; the fire
in the Great Pipe was extinguished forever ; their graves
called for them ; and the call was now answered by a thou
sand dying groans. Mad with superstition and fear, brother
forsook sister ; father his son ; and mother her suckbg child ;
and fled to the elevated vales among the western heights,
where the influences of the climate, operating upon the al
ready well-spent energies of the disease, restored the remain
der of the tribe agab to health. Of the two thousand five
hundred families existing at the time the pestilence com
menced, one or more members of eight hundred only sur-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 381
vived its ravages. And even to this hour do the bones of
seven thousand or eight thousand Blackfeet lie unburied
among the decaying lodges of their deserted village, on the
banks of the Yellowstone. But this infliction has in no wise
humanized their blood-thirsty nature. As ever before, they
wage exterminating war upon the traders and trappers, and
the Oregon Indians.
The Arrapahoes reside south of the Snakes. They wan
der in the winter season over the country about the head of
the Great Kenyon of the Colorado of the west, and to a con
siderable distance down that river ; and in summer hunt the
buffalo in the New Park, or ' Bull Pen,' in the ' Old Park,'
on Grand river, and in ' Bayou Salade, on the south fork of
the Platte. Their number is not well ascertained. Some es
timate it at three thousand, others more, and others still less.
They are said to be a brave — fearless, thrifty, ingenious, and
hospitable people. They own large numbers of horses,
mules, dogs, and sheep. The dogs they fatten and eat.
Hence the name Arrapahoes — dog eaters. They mamifac-
ture the wool of their sheep into blankets of a very supe
rior quality. I saw many of them ; possessed one ; and be
lieve them to be made with something in the form of a dar-
bng-needle. They appeared to be wrought, in the first
place, like a fishbg-net ; and on this, as a foundation, darned
so densely that the rab will not penetrate them. They are
usually striped or checked with yellow and red.
There is in this tribe a very curious law of naturalization ;
it is based upon property. Any one, whether red or wbte,
may avail himself of it. One horse, which can run with
sufficient speed to overtake a buffalo cow, and another horse
or mule, capable of bearing a pack of two hundred pounds,
must be possessed by the applicant.

382 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
These being delivered to the principal chief of the tribe,
and his intentions being made known, he is declared a citi
zen of the Arrapahoe tribe, and entitled to a wife and other
high privileges thereunto appertaining. Thus recognized,
he enters upon a life of savage independence. His wife
takes care of his horses, manufactures his saddles and bri
dles, and leash ropes and whips, his moccasins, leggins, and
hunting-shirts, from leather and other materials prepared by
her own hands ; beats with a wooden adze his buffalo robes,
till they are soft and pleasant for his couch ; tans hides for
his tent covering, and drags from the distant hills the clean
white-pine poles to support it ; cooks his daily food and pla
ces it before him. And should sickness overtake bm, and
death rap at the door of his lodge, his squaw watches Mndly
the last yearnings of the departbg spirit. His sole duty, as
her lord in life, and as a citizen of the Arrapahoe tribe, is to
ride the horse which she saddles and brings to bs tent, kill
the game which she dresses and cures ; sit and slumber on
the couch which she spreads ; and fight the enemies of the
tribe. Their language is said to be essentially the same as
that spoken by the Snakes and Cumanches.
This, and other tribes in the mountains, and in the upper
plains, have a custom, the same in its objects as was the cer
emony of the ' toga virilis' among the Romans. When ri
pened into manhood, every young man of the tribes is ex
pected to do some act of bravery that will give promise of
his disposition and ability to defend the rights of his tribe
and family. Nor can this expectation be disregarded. So,
in the spring of the year, those of the age alluded to, asso
ciate themselves forty or fifty in a band, and devote them
selves to the dutbs of man's estate in the following man
ner : They take leave of their friends, and depart to some

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 383
secret place near the woodlands; collect poles twenty or
thirty feet in length, and raise them in the form of a cone ;
and cover the structure so thickly with leaves and boughs as
to secure the interior from the gaze of persons outside.
They then hang a fresh buffalo head inside, — near the top
of the lodge where the poles meet ; and below this, around
the sides, suspend camp-kettles, scalps, and blankets, and
the sMn of a white buffalo, as offerings to the Great Spirit.
After the lodge is thus arranged, they enter it with much
solemnity, and commence the ceremonies which are to con
secrate themselves to war, and the destruction of their own
enemies, and those of the tribe. The first act, is to seat
themselves in a circle around a fire built b the centre of the
lodge, and ' make medicin ;' that is, — invoke the presence
and aid of protecting spirits, by smoking the Great Mystic
Pipe. One of their number fills it with tobacco and herbs,
places upon the bowl a bright coal from the fire withb the
lodge, draws the smoke into his lungs, and blows it hence
through his nostrils. He then seizes the stem with both
hands, and leabng forward, touches the ground between his
feet with the lower part of the bowl, and smokes again as
before. The feet, and arms, and breast, are successively
touched b a similar way ; and after each touching, the sa
cred smoke is inhaled as before. The pipe is then passed to
the one on his right, who smokes as his fellow had done.
And thus the great pipe goes round, and the smoke rises and
mingles with the votive offerings to the Great Spirit that are
suspended above their heads. Immediately after this smo
king, is believed to be a favored time for offering prayer to
the Great Spirit. They pray for courage, and victory over
their foes in the campaign they are about to undertake ; and
that they may be protected from the spirits of evil-minded

384 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
medicin-men. They then make an irrevocable vow, that it
these medicin-men do not make them sick — do not enter
into their bosoms and destroy their strength and courage,
they will never again see their relatives and tribe, unless
they do so b garments stained with the blood of their ene
mies. Having passed through these ceremonies, they rise and
dance to the music of war chants, till they are exhausted
and swoon. In this state of insensibihty, they imagine that
the spirits of the brave, dead visit them and teach them their
duty, and inform them of the events that will transpire du
ring the campaign. Three days and nights are passed in
performing these ceremonies ; during which time, they neither
eat nor drink, nor leave the lodge. At early dawn of the
fourth day they select a leader from their number, appoint
a distant place of meeting ; and emerging from the lodge,
each walks away from it alone to the place of rendezvous.
Having arrived there, they determine whose horses are to be
stolen, whose scalps taken ; and commence their march.
They always go out on foot, wholly dependent upon their
own energies for food and every other necessary. Amono-
other things it is considered a great disgrace to be long with
out meat and the means of riding.
It sometimes happens that these parties are unable to sat
isfy the conditions of their consecration during the first sea
son ; and therefore are compelled to resort to some ingenious
and satisfactory evasion of the obligation of their vow, or to
go into winter quarters till another opening spring allows
them to prosecute their designs. The trappers relate a case
of this kbd, which led to a curious incident. A war party
of Blackfeet had spent the season in seeking for their ene
mies without success. The storms of approaching winter

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 3BI»
had begun to howl around, and a wish to return to the log5
fires and buffalo meat, and hilarities and friendships of the'
camp of the tribe in the high vales of Upper Missouri, had
become ardent, when a forlorn, solitary trapper, who had
long resided among them, entered their camp. Affectionate"
and sincere greetings passed at the moment of meeting.
The trapper, as is the custom, was invited to eat ; and all ap
peared friendly and glad. But soon the Indians became
reserved, and whispered ominously among themselves. At
length came to the ear of the trapper high words of debate
in regard to his life. They all agreed that his white skin in- ,
dubitably indicated that he belonged to the great tribe of
their natural enemies, and that with the blood of a white
upon their garments, they would have fulfilled the terms Of
their vow, and could return to their friends and tribe. But a
part of them seriously questioned whether the sacred names
of friend and brother, which they had for years applied to
him, had not so changed his natural relationship to them,
that the Great Spirit, to whom they had made their vow/
had sent him among them in the character which they them
selves had given him — as a friend and brother. If so, they
reasoned that the sacrifice of his life would only anger Him,
and by no means relieve them from the obligations of their
vow. Another party reasoned that the Great Spirit had sent
this victim among them to test their fidelity to Him. He
had indeed been their friend ; they had called him brother ;"
but he was also their natural enemy ; and that the Great
One to whom they had made their vow, would not release'
them at all from its obligations, if they allowed this factitious*-
relation of friendship to interfere with obedience to Himself.
The other party rejoined, that although the trapper was'
their natural enemy, he was not one within the meaning' of
25

386 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
their vow; that the taking of his life would be an evasion of
its sacred obligations — a blot upon their courage — and an
outrage upon the laws of friendship ; that they could find
other victims, but that their friend could not find another
life. The other party rebutted, that the trapper was con
fessedly their natural enemy ; that the conditions of their
vow required the blood of their natural enemy ; and that the
Great Spirit had sufficiently shown His views of the rela
tive obligations of friendship and obedience to Himself in
sending the trapper to their camp. The trapper's friends
perceiving that the obstinacy of their opponents was unlikely
to yield to reason, proposed as a compromise, that, since, if
they should adjudge the trapper their enemy within the re
quirements of their vow, his blood only would be needed to
stab their garments, they would agree to take from him so
much as might be necessary for that purpose; and that in
consideration of being a brother, he should retain enough to
keep his heart alive. As their return to their tribe wobd be
secured by this measure, little objection was raised to it.
The flint lancet was applied to the veins of the white man ;
their garments were died with his blood ; they departed for
their nation's village, and the poor trapper for the beaver
among the hills.
My worthy old guide, Kelly, had often seen these medicin-
Iqdges. He informed me that many of his votive offerings
before mentioned are permitted to decay with the lodge in
which they are hung ; that the penalty to any mortal who
should dare appropriate them to his use was death. A cer
tain white man, however, who had been robbed of his blanket
at the setting in of winter, came upon one of these sacred
lodges erected by the young Arrapahoes, which contained,
among other things, a blanket that seemed well calcbated to

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 387
shield him from the cold. He spread it over his shivering
frame, and very unadvisedly went into the Arrapahoe vil
lage. The Indians knew the sacred deposit, held a council,
called the culprit before them, and demanded why he had
stolen from the Great Spirit ? In exculpation, he stated that
he had been robbed ; that the Great Spirit saw him naked
in the wintry w:nd ; pitied him ; showed him the sacred
lodge, and bade him take the blanket. ' That seems to be
well,' said the principal chief, to his fellow- counsellors, 'the
Great Spirit has an undoubted right to give away his own
property ;' and the trader was released.
Among the several personages whom I chanced to meet
at Brown's Hole, was an old Snake Indian, who saw Messrs.
Lewis and Clark on the head waters of the Missouri in 1805.
He is the individual of his tribe, who first saw the explo
rers' cavalcade. He appears to have been galloping from
place to place in the office of sentinel to the Shoshonie camp
when he suddenly found himself in the very presence of the
whites. Astonishment fixed him to the spot. Men with
faces pale as ashes, had never been seen by himself or na
tion. ' The head rose high and round, the top flat ; it jutted
over the eyes in a thin rim ; their skin was loose and flowing,
and of various colors.' His fears at length overcoming bs
curiosity, he fled in the direction of the Indian encampment.
But being seen by the whites, they pursued and brought him
to their camp ; exhibited to him the effects of their fire
arms — loaded him with presents, and let him go. Having
airived among his own people, he told them he had seen men
with faces pale as ashes, who were makers of thunder, light
ning, etc. This information astounded the whole tribe.
They had lived many years, and their ancestors had lived
many more, and there were many legends which spoke of

3&&V TEN TEARS IN OREGOH.
many wonderful things ; but a tale like this they never had
heard. A council was therefore assembled to consider the
matter. The man of strange words was summoned before
i^; and he rehearsed, in substance, what he had before told
tofDsti»ers ; but was not believed. ' All men were red, and
theeefore he could not have seen men as pale as ashes.'
* The Great Spirit made the thunder and the lightnbg ; he
therefore could not have seen men of any color that could
produce it. He had seen nothing ; he had lied to his chief,
and should die.' At this stage of the proceedings, the cul
prit produced some of the presents which he had received
from, the pale men. These being quite as new to them as
pa,le,faces were, it was determined ' that he should have the
privilege of leadbg his judges to the place where he de
clared he had seen these strange people ; and if such were
found there, he should be exculpated ; if not, these presents
were to be considered as conclusive evidence against him,
that, he dealt with evil spirits, and that he was worthy of
death by the arrows of his kinfolks.' The pale men — the
thunder-makers — were found, and were witnesses of the
p^qr, fellow's story. He was released; and has ever since
been, much honored and loved by his tribe, and every white
man in the mountains. He is now about eighty years old,
and poor. But as he is always about fort David Crockett,
b.e,js:never permitted to want."
The following extracts are from Lee and Frost's " Ten
Years in Oregon."
" But perhaps we ought not to take our departure from
this place without noticing the great medical operation
wbeh was being performed here. The patients consisted of
a young woman, who, upon examination, was found to have
a flight fever ; and a child, b much the same state, neither

TBN YEARS IN OREGON. 389
of them being dangerously ill. But the doctors affirmed
that they had been filled with skokoms ; and as proof of the
truth of their statement of the cases, they produced a small
snail shell, with a small string attached to it, and a small
bund* of htiir, wound up with a thread, and ceveral other
articles of the some nature, which they professed to have
taken from the stomachs of the sick, and there were still
several to be dislodged before a cathartic would take any
effect ; but after these were removed, they said it would be
good for Mr. Lee to give his medicine. They now made
preparations for a trial of their skill in endeavoring to root
another of these evil genii or skokoms. One of the doctors
out of six or eight who constituted the grand council, all of
whom appeared as wise as serpents, it would seem had been
the most successful in his attacks upon the strong-hold »f
this combination of skokons, so it was decided he should be
the leader in another general onset. Upon which he crawled
near the young woman — who was stretched upon a mat,
with a female attendant at her head — for the purpose of as
certaining the precise position of the enemy. Having deter
mined this point, and made known all the particbars to his
faculty, he prepared himself for the tug of war. This he
did by drawing his right arm through the hole in his blanket
around the neck, so that his arm was now entirely disen
cumbered. He then threw his long hair up over his head,
which entirely covered his face. Being now ready, he kneeled
down, while all the other doctors, and men, women, and
children, were arranged on either side, equipped with sticks)
and long poles which reached to the board roof. The kneel
ing doctor now commenced a wild and frightful song or cho
rus, in wbch all joined, keeping time with their sticks. He
now commenced moving with well dissembled caution to-

390 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
ward the patient, extending his hand toward her stomach,
as an eagle would his talons, ready to seize his affrighted
prey ; and the nearer he approached the lodgment of the
skokom, the more furious became the singers and thumpers,
and when he reached the stomach, at which he had been
aiming, his distorted form and strained muscles evinced the
appearance of perfect agony. The choir now bore down
with might and main, and the practitioner now plunged his
two fists into the patient's stomach most unmercifully ; and
seizing one of the enemy by the neck or heels, or somewhere
else, he appeared to find it very hot ; but drawing back
quickly, plunged his hands into a trough of cold water,
which was standing hard by, and then seized the unyielding
foe again ; but as it had then assumed something of the na
ture of the eel, and slipped out of his hands, he quickly
caught up some ashes, rubbed it on his fingers, then laid
hold upon it for the third time, screaming and yelling in the
most teiific manner, while the company plied their sticks,
and singing, or rather screaming, pipes with redoubled en
ergy. The battle now became doubtful ; but after many
manly efforts victory turned upon the doctor's side, who, by
one mighty effort, broke the hold of the skokom upon the
patient, which now turned wholly upon the doctor, causing
him to cry out for help. The company was now in perfect
ecstacies, pounding as though life and death depended upon
every stroke ; and bellowing at the very top of their voices,
'Ha ha yeh, ha ha yeh.' Two of the faculty now caught
the almost overpowered doctor around the waist, and bore
him, screeching and writhing, away from the patient, amidst
the thundering noise of the transported spectators and at
tendant physicians ; but all of a sudden the victorious doc
tor cried, ' Ho ho ho,' and making an effort, as though he

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 391
was catching after something toward the top of the lodge,
exclaimed, ' There, he has gone through the roof!' The
music now ceased, every Indian and squaw appeared aston
ished, while the doctor explained the whole process in an
elaborate speech. After witnessing several such feats, Mr.
Lee commenced .reproving them for their folly ; but a ven
erable old doctor informed him that it would be best for him
to depart before he found himself in trouble. So taking the
old man's advice, we laid in a stock of fresh dried salmon,
got our crew on board, and left the doctor's to manage the
remainder of the skokoms according to their ancient mode of
practice." *****
" Let the reader now be introduced to the most influential
persons among this people. These are the 'medicb-men,'
or conjurors, who can, it is believed, set the evil spirit of
disease at defiance, cast it out 'where it has dared to enter,
and make it seize, with an unyielding, deadly grasp, the ob
jects of their displeasure. The people believe that they hold
intercourse with spirits, that they can see the disease, which
is some extraneous thing, as a small shell, or a pipe, or a
piece of tobacco, or some other material substance, which
they— the doctors — describe. It is firmly believed that they
can send a bad ' tam-ana-a-was' into a person, and make
him die, unless it be cast out by some other 'medicin-man.'
If a threat is made, or is intimated, by one of them, that a
certab person will not live long, no sooner does he hear of
it than he is alarmed, and feels himself a dead man. For
their services they are paid in advance, and often their de
mands are high, and their practice is lucrative. When their
patients die, they restore the fees. This is necessary for
their own security, for otherwise they might be charged
with havbg caused his death, which would render them the

392 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
mark of revenge. If one of the order is his rival or enemy,
and he wishes this obstacle to his own advancement removed,
the affirmation that he caused the death of some person will
probably be followed with his death by some of the relatives
of the deceased. Several deaths from this cause took place
at the Dalles the first year after the station was occupied,
and this is a common occurrence among many of the sur
rounding tribes. Sometimes it happens that the doctor
takes all his patient has, not leaving a dying man his last,
perhaps his only, garment or covering. A case of this kind
pecurred at the Dalles. A young man was in a consumption,
and was in the writer's care — he was frightened away to
the doctor by some one who saw he had a shirt and trousers,
and shoes, and a light blanket, which he had received in
part from me ; and it was not long before he had stripped
him of the whole, and then left him to die, or hastened his
death. The poor man had no friends, and the doctor was
safe. As we shall have occasion to notice instances of these
practices in the progress of our work, the writer will only
mention briefly the manner in which :t is sometimes per
formed, which will give the reader some idea of its degrading
nature. Several poles are tied together at the ends, and
from six to ten men are arranged along them in a sitting
posture, each having a stick with which he beats on the
poles, and thus a loud jarring noise is produced, which may
be heard a long distance. This is accompanied with a kind
of singing, in which the 'medicb-man' leads while he kneels
near his patient on the other side of the poles, making hor
rid contortions and grimaces, as if some demoniac was raging
within. The chant is not long, and then, after a few mb-
ntes, is renewed again, and thus repeated several times.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 393
The way being now prepared, he approaches his patient,
and, after a painful and persevering effort, with his mouth
applied as a cupping glass, he transfers the 'sko-kom,' or
' tam-an-a-was,' or disease, wholly or in part, from the pa
tient to himself! In this stage of the treatment two men
approach him, and taking hold of ropes about his waist and
beneath his arms, free him from the patient, when he appears
as one dead. Very soon he begins to show signs of life —
a limb moves, he mutters, turns, gets on his hands and knees,
rises slowly up, can hardly stand, grows stronger, summons
a mighty effort ! — music lifts, labors ! — makes an unearthly
scream, and violently throwing out his arms at full length,
ejects the evil principle, and he is now ready for a new
onset!" * * * * - * *
" While Mr. Shepherd, as, has been related, was confined
to his dying bed, and not long before his decease, his heart was
cheered by hearing that the Lord was visiting the Dalles sta
tion in the awkening and conversion of souls. That this was
the work of God at its beginning and in its progress, the
writer fully believes. What if some, or even most of the
anticipated results failed ? Does this prove that it was not
God's doing ? By no means ; for instances are frequent in
which he revives his work in portions of his vineyard, and
most of the anticipated frbts never appear. Sec this illus
trated by an unerring Teacher in the parable of the sower,
MaU. xiii. The writer, when this good work commenced,
was absent, having gone some time previous to the Walamet,
and did not return till past the 15th of November. When
he arrived, Mr. Perkins met him at the shore, and told him
that a gracious work was begun among the natives. Of thr?
he had strong doubts, and could not aslfent till the proof
appeared ; for before he went to the Walamet, they had be-

394 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
come so lawless and daring that our safety was endangered,
and he had just brought several muskets and a supply of
powder and balls from Vancouver for defence, intending to
garrison the dwelling-house, and resist any hostility they
might attempt. But now these munitions of war were not
needed, for it appeared truly that the God of peace had
come to the help of his servants, and the salvation of his
people. Mr. Perkins was found laboring zealously night and
day, going from lodge to lodge, praying and exhorting,
holding prayer meetings and preaching. His own soul had
been recently blessed with a signal salvation, and walking
in the 'comfort of the Holy Ghost,' he had the cause of God
greatly at heart. Large numbers of the natives attended
the meetings as earnest hearers, and several had begun to
pray. One had already been converted. After several
weeks of deep repentance, in which he met with much op
position, and devoted many hours to prayer, his soul was
set at liberty in a prayer meeting; and although his joy was
not great, the change was soon manifest. He began at once
to ' declare what God had done for his soul,' exhorted all he
met to come to Jesus, and prayed with deep and fervent
longings for the souls of his relations and others. This event
awake: ed a deeper and wider interest among the people ;
insomuch that the number of inquirers obliged Mr. Perkins
to give himself entirely up to the work, as mentioned above.
As to Mr. Perkins and the writer, their hearts were knit to
gether in love, and long will those seasons of 'refreshing
from the presence of the Lord,' which we enjoyed in those
happy days, be remembered, when the language of our
hearts was, 'Jesus is mine, and I am his.' Our object and
aim were now one*)-the salvation, of the souls around us ;
and we desired no higher employment than to serve them as

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 395
the heirs of eternal life. We felt that they belonged to
Christ, and he could and would save them.
With these views our united strength was now consecra
ted to this work, which the Lord of the vineyard had evi
dently assigned us. Our meetings were held in the house
mentioned in the last chapter, which was thirty by twenty
feet ; but on the sabbath it would not hold the people, so
that sometimes it was necessary to hold a meeting in the
other house at the same time. Every morning and evening
they were assembled for public prayers, when a portion of
the New Testament history was expounded by one of us.
Such was their interest in the meetings, that the want of
clothing sufficient to protect them from the cold, or of shoes
to keep their feet from the frost and snow — for even many
of the women had none — could not keep them away, though
they had to walk a mile in going and returning. Who, let
me ask, in this christian land, would do more than this in
order to hear the blessed gospel ? Some time after my re
turn from the Walamet, there being about twenty souls, men
and women, in deep distress on account of their sins, and
apparently near the 'Mngdom,' we met in a special prayer
meeting, where few except those were present. Here was
earnest, united praying, and the 'kingdom of heaven was ta
ken by violence.' More than half the number gave evidence
of a happy change. Their agitated hearts felt an unknown
peace, a joyful smile sat on their faces, and their lips praised
the name of Jesus. ' Mi-cah Jesus Christ e-toke-te ! — Thou,
Jesus Christ, art good !' 'Cupet mi-cah mi-mah e-toke-te !
Thou alone art good !' — ' Can-nu-it e-toke-te ! — Certainly
thou art good !' 'Jesus good !' 'Jesus good !'
The 'spirit of adoption' was now as manifest as had-been a
little before the 'spirit of bondage.' One of these, a leading

396 TEN YEARS IN OREGON
man, who is sometimes called 'Boston' by his people, be
cause his head is not flattened, was some time before asked
by Mr. Perkins why he rose so much earlier than formerly,
'Why,' said he, *I cannot sleep. When I go home and lie
down, I think of your teaching, and I cannot sleep. I sleep
a little, and then dream I am in meeting, and my heart is all
the time talking over what you say. My heart was for
merly asleep, I see, but now it is awake.' As soon as his
own proud spirit was humbled, and his troubled conscience
had found peace, he sought his wife and daughter, knelt by
them and told them to pray.
Here may be given a specimen of their praying. O thou
great God on high, we now pray to thee. Our fathers knew
thee not, they died in darkness, but we have heard of thee
— now we see a little. Trby we are wretched ! Our hearts
were blind— dark as night — always foolish — our ears closed!
Our hearts bad — all bad — always bad — full of evil — nothing
good — not one ! Thou knowest ! Truly we pray now to
thee. 0 make us good ! Put away our bad hearts. Give
us thy Holy Spirit to make our hearts soft ! Our hearts are
hard like a stone. Give us light. O make our hearts new
— good — all good — always good ! Formerly we stole — told
lies — were full of anger; now done! ' Nash- Ice alka ka-
dow ! Never again so!' Now we desire thee, O come bto
our hearts— now come! Jesus Christ thy Son died for us;
O Jesus, wash our hearts ! * Minch't-cah-meet cow-o-!ute
quich-cah ! — Behold and bless !'
Several others were soon after added to this number.
Mrs. Perkins now devoted a part of every day in prayer
meetings with the females, and the work continued to pros
per. The voice of prayer was now heard in the lodge, and
wood, and glen ; the early morning and the evening were vo-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 397
cal with the suppliant's voice, and the place where the
'church-going bell' was 'never heard,' was honored with the
presence of the 'Head of the church' in many a hallowed
spot where he .met the contrite 'sinner returning from his
ways.' There was an old man, who for some time stood aloof
from the work, because others of a lower class took the lead
in it ; and this made him of less consequence than he de
sired, and he opposed the little band for several weeks.
During this time he was in a very unhappy state of mind.
One day as the writer was speaking with him closely about
God, whom he was bound to obey and love, he seemed
deeply affected, and wept, and while we prayed together his
tears flowed freely ; he did not, however, yield his heart to
God till the first of May, several weeks after. 'How do you
feel ?' said Mr. Perkins to another old man as they were go-
bg out to pray in the wood. ' 0,' said he, ' my heart is
very small and sorrowful. Yesterday I prayed most all day
out behind that hill,' pointing to a distant hill ; 'but my heart
is still bad !' 'Jesus can change it,' said Mr. P.; 'Jesus has
died for ycu !' So kneeling down they prayed. The poor
old man believed in Jesus, and light, love, and joy filled his
heart — another proof of the love of God to the poor, whom
he makes 'heirs to his kingdom !'
These pages relate to the work at the station, chiefly
among the Indians of the Caclasco village near it, and this
continued to spread till but a small number were left, and
also extended to two small villages a few miles below, em
bracing also a little village of the Wallawallas, living near
Caclasco ; most of them were formed into classes by Mr.
Perkins before the 10th of January, 1840. The writer had
been laboring among the Indians on the river below, down

398 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
to the Cascades, of which we will speak hereafter, and first
notice this work at its introduction among the Indians at
Wishham. Mr. Perkins visited this village on the 10th of January,
1840. The round-head man, 'Boston,' was with him, as an
interpreter : this man had assisted him from the day of his
conversion, and was found an efficient helper : the season
was cold, and the first night they took little notice of him :
encamped in a lodge of sticks and mats. There, next day,
he found a large celler, which was formerly used as a dan
cing hall, and clearing it out, used it for a meeting house.
It was large enough to hold all the village — three hundred
souls. A few men and boys, and about twenty -five women,
came in the forenoon. Their number increased at every
meeting, till on the fourth day almost the whole village were
present. Such objects never met your eyes ! Naked, squal
id, deformed, blind, halt, lame : Mr. P. truly adds, 'destruc
tion and misery are in their ways,' as saith the scriptures.
After he had preached two days, they seemed to awake as
from a dream ; many began to pray, and the cry became
general as the meeting progressed. The barren rocks be
hind Wishham echoed their earnest prayers, and many after
ward testified that they became happy while thus engaged,
and many spoke feelingly of their past wretchedness and
darkness, and seemed to feel a deep abhorrence of their
sins, and expressed a determbation to serve God hence
forth. One old man, on hearing Mr. Perkins' interpreter tell the
story of Jesus, exclaimed, ' this is the talk I want to hear !'
Then addressing Mr. Perkins, he with a poker drew some
coals from the fire, saying, 'there, you have come just to

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 399
pull me out of the fire !' At his subsequent visits during
the winter, the work appeared to be continually advancing,
and several were found to be useful as exhorters. Here he
formed several classes, including a very large part of the
village."

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. ^4Ql

COL. FREMONT'S ADVENTURES IN CROSSING
CALIFORNIA MOUNTAIN.
February 1st. — The snow which had intermitted in the
evening, commenced fallbg agab b the course of the night,
and it snowed steadily all day. In the morning I acquabted
the men with my decision, and explained to them that neces
sity reqbred us to make a great effort to clear the moun
tains. I reminded them of the beautiful valley of the Sac
ramento, with which they were familiar from the descrip
tions of Carson, who had been there some fifteen years ago,
and who, in our late privations, had delighted us in speaking
of its rieh pastures and abounding game, and drew a vivid
contrast between its summer climate, less than a hundred
miles distant, and the fallbg snow around us. I informed
them (and long experience had given them confidence in my
observations and good instruments) that almost directly
west, and only about seventy miles distant, was the great
farming establishment of Captab Sutter — a gentleman who
had formerly lived in Missouri, and, emigratbg to this coun
try, had become the possessor of a principality. I assured
them that from the heights of the mountab before us, we
should doubtless see the valley of the Sacrimento river, and
with one effort place ourselves again in the midst of plenty.
The people received this decision with the cheerful obedi
ence which 'had always characterized them, and the day
was immediately devoted to the preparations necessary to
enable us to carry it into effect. Leggins, moccasins, cloth
ing — all were put bto the best state to resist the cold. Our
gbde was not neglected. Extremity of suffering might
make him desert ; we therefore did the best we could for
him. Leggins, moccasins, some articles of clothing, and a
large green blanket}, in addition to the blue and scarlet cloth.
were lavished upon him, and to his great and evident con
tentment. He arrayed bmself b all his colors, and, clad in
green, blue, and scarlet, he made a gay -looking Indian ; and,
26

402 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
with his various presents, was probably richer and better
clothed than any of his tribe had ever been before.
I have already said that our provisions were very low ; we
had neither tallow or grease of any kind remaining, and the
want of salt became one of our greatest privations. The
poor dog which had been found in the Bear River valley, and
which had been a compagnon de voyage ever since, had now
become fat, and the mess to which it belonged, requested
permission to kill it. Leave was granted. Spread out on
the snow, the meat looked very good ; and it made a strength-
enbg meal for the greater part of the camp. Indians brought
b two or three rabits during the day, which were purchased
from them.
The river was forty to seventy feet wide, and now entirely
frozen over. It was wooded with large cottonwood, willow,
and grain de bceuf. By observation, the latitude of this en
campment was 38° 37' 18".
2d. — It had ceased snowing, and this mornbg the lower
air was clear and frosty; and six or seven thousand feet above,
the peaks of the Sierra now and then appeared among the
rolling clouds, which were rapidly dispersing before the sun.
Our Indian shook his head as he pointed to the icy pinnacles,
shooting high up into the sky, and seeming almost immedi
ately above us. Crossing the river on the ice, and leaving
it immediately, we commenced the ascent of the mountain
along the valley of a tributary stream. The people were
unusually silent, for every man knew that our enterprise was
hazardous, and the issue doubtful.
The snow deepened rapidly, and it soon became-necessary
to break a road. For this service, a party of ten was formed,
mounted on the strongest horses, each man in succession
opening the road on foot, or on horseback, until himself and
his horse became fatigued, when he stepped aside, and, the
remaining number passing ahead, he took his station in the
rear. Leavbg this stream, and pursbng a very direct
course, we passed over an btervening ridge to the river we
had left. On the way we passed two low huts entirely
covered with snow, which might very easily have escaped
observation. A family was living in each ; and the only
trail I saw in the neighborhood was from the door-hole to a
nut-pine tree near, which supplied them with food and fuel.
We found two similar huts on the creek where we next ar
rived ; and, traveling a little higher up, encamped on its

TBNYEARS IN OREGON. 403
bank b about four feet depth of snow. Carson found near,
an open bll-side, where the wind and the sun had melted
the snow, leaving exposed sufficient bunch-grass for the
animals to-night.
The nut-pines were now giving way to heavy timber, and
there were now immense pines on the bottom, around the
roots of which the sun had melted away the snow ; and
here we made our camp and bblt huge fires. To-day we
had traveled sixteen miles, and our elevation above the sea
was 6,700 feet.
3d. — -Turning our faces directly towards the main chain,
we ascended an open hollow along a small tributary to the
river, which, accordbg to the Indians, issues from a moun
tain to the south. The snow was so deep in the hollow,
that we were obliged to travel along the steep hill-sides, and
over spurs, where the wind and sun had b places lessened
the snow, and where the grass, which appeared to be in
good quality along the sides of the mountains, was exposed.
We opened our road b the same way as yesterday, but
made only seven miles, and encamped by some springs at
the foot of a high and steep hill, by which the hollow as
cended to another basin in the mountain. The little stream
below was entirely buried in snow. The springs were shaded
by the boughs of a lofty cedar, which here made its first ap
pearance ; the usual height was one hundred and twenty to
one hundred and thirty feet, and one that was measured
near by was six feet in diameter.
There bebg no grass exposed here, the horses were sent
back to that which we had seen a few miles below. We
occupied the remamder of the day in beating down a road
to the foot of the hill, a mile or two distant ; the snow being
beaten down when moist, in the warm part of the day, and
then hard frozen at night, made a foundation that wobd
bear the weight of the animals next morning. During the
day several Indians joined us on snow-shoes. These were
made of a circular hoop, about a foot in diameter, the inte
rior space being filled with an open network of bark.
4th. — I went ahead early with two or three men, each
with a led horse to break the road. We were obligedto
abandon the hollow entirely, and work along the mountain
side, which was very steep, and the snow covered with an
icy crust. We cut a footing as we .advanced, and trampled
a road through for the animals ; but occasionally one

404 TEN YEARS IN OREGON
plunged outside the trail, and slided along the field to the
bottom, a hundred yards below. Late in the day we reached
another bench in the hollow, where, in summer, the stream
passed over a small precipice. Here was a short distance
of dividing ground between the two ridges, and beyond an
open basin, some ten miles across, whose bottom presented
a field of snow. At the further or western side rose the
middle crest of the mountain, a dark looMng ridge of vol
canic rock.
The summit line presented a range of naked peaks, appa
rently destitute of snow and vegetation ; but below the face
of the whole country was covered with timber of extraordi
nary size.
Towards a pass which the gbde indicated here, we at
tempted in the afternoon to force a road ; but after a labo
rious plunging through two or three hundred yards, our best
horses gave out, entirely refusing to make any further effort,
and, for the time, we were brought to a stand. The guide
informed us that we were entering the deep snow, and here
began the difficulties of the mountain ; and to him, and al
most to all, our enterprise seemed hopeless. I returned a
short distance back, to the break in the hollow, where I met
Mr. Fitzpatrick.
The camp had been occupied all the day in endeavoring
to ascend the hill, but only the best horses had succeeded ;
the animals, generally, not having sufficient strength to
bring themselves up without the packs ; and all the line of
road between this and the springs were strewed with camp-
stores and eqbpage, and horses floundering in snow. I
therefore immediately encamped on the ground with my
own mess, which was in advance, and directed Mr. Fitzpat
rick to encamp at the sprbgs, and send all the animals, in
charge of Tabeau, with a strong guard, back to the place
where they had been pastured the night before. Here was
a small spot of level ground, protected on one side by the
mountab, and on the other sheltered by a little ridge of rock.
It was an open grove of pines, which assimilated in size to
the grandeur of the mountain, bebg frequently six feet in
diameter. To-night we had no shelter, but we made a large fire
around the trunk of one of the huge pines ; and covering
the snow with small boughs, on which we spread our blan
kets, soon made ourselves comfortable. The night was very

TUN YEARS IN OREGON. 405
bright and clear, though the thermometer was only at 10°.
A strong wind, which sprang up at sundown, made it in-
tensly cold ; and this was one of the bitterest nights during
the journey.
Two Indians joined our party here ; and one of them, an
old man; immediately began to harangue us, saying that
ourselves and animals would perish in the snow ; and that
if we would go back, he would show us another and a bet
ter way across the mountain. He spoke in a very loud
voice, and there was a smgular repetition of phrases and
arrangement of words, which rendered his speech striking
and not unmusical.
We had now begun to understand some words, and, with
the aid of signs, easily comprenended the old man's simple
ideas. " Rock upon rock — rock upon rock — snow upon
snow," said he ; " even if you get over the snow, you will
not be able to get down from the mountains." He made
us the sign of precipices, and showed us how the feet of
the horses would slip, and throw them off from the narrow
trails that led along their sides. Our Chinook, who com
prehended even more readily than ourselves, and believed
our situation hopeless, covered his head with his blanket,
and began to weep and lament. "I wanted to see the
whites," said he ; " I came away from my own people to see
the whites, and I would'nt care to die among them, but
here" — and he looked around into the cold night and gloomy
forest, and, drawbg his blanket over his head, began again
to lament.
Seated around the tree, the fire illuminating the rocks
and the tall bolls of the pines round about, and the old In
dian harrangbng, we presented a group of very serious
faces. 5th. — The night had been too cold to sleep, and we were
up very early. Our guide was standing by the fire with all
his finery on ; and seeing him shiver in the cold, I threw on
his shoulders one of my blankets. We missed him a few
minutes afterwards, and never saw him again. He had de
serted. His bad faith and treachery were in perfect keep
bg with the estimate of Indian character, which a long in
tercourse with this people had gradually forced upon my
mind. While a portion of the camp were occupied in bringing
up the baggage to this point, the remainder were busied in

406 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
making sledges and snow-shoes. I had determined to ex
plore the mountain ahead, and the sledges were to be used
in transporting the baggage.
The mountains here consisted wholly of a white micace
ous granite. The day was perfectly clear, and, while the
sun- was in the sky, warm and pleasant.
By observation our latitude was 38° 42' 26"; and eleva
tion by the boiling point, 7,400 feet.
6th. — Accompanied by Mr. Fitzpatrick, I set out to-day
with a reconnoitering party on snow-shoes. We marched all
in single file, trampling the snow as heavily as we could. —
Crossing the open basin, in a march of about ten miles we
reached the top of one of the peaks, to the left of the pass
indicated by our gbde. Far below us, dimmed by the dis
tance, was a large snowless valley, bounded on the western
side, at the distance of about a hundred miles, by a low
range of mountains, which Carson recognised with delight
as the mountains bordering the coast. " There," said he,
" is the little mountab — it is fifteen years since I saw it ;
but I am just as sure as if I had seen it yesterday." Be
tween us, then, and this low coast range, was the valley of
the Sacramento ; and no one who had not accompamed us
through the incidents of our life for the last few months
could realize the delight with which at last we looked down
upon it. At the distance of apparently 30 miles beyond
us were distinguished spots of prairie ; and a dark line
which could be traced with the glass, was imagined to be
the course of the river ; but we were evidently at a great
height above the valley, and between us and the plains ex
tended miles of snowy fields and broken ridges of pine-cov
ered mountains.
It was late in the day when we turned towards the camp ;
, and it grew rapidly cold as it drew towards night. One of
the man became fatigued, and his feet began to freeze, and
building a fire in the trunk of a dry old cedar, Mr. Fitzpat
rick remained with him until his clothes could be dried, and
he was in a condition to come on. After a day's march of
20 miles, we straggled into the camp one after another, at
night-fall ; the greater number excessively fatigued, only
two of the party having ever traveled on snow shoes before.
All our energies are now directed to getting our animals
across the snow ; and it was supposed that after all the bag
gage had been drawn with the sleighs over the trail we had

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. *07
made, it would be sufficiently hard to bear our animals. At
several places between this pobt and the ridge, we had dis
covered some grassy spots, where the wind and sun had dis
persed the snow from the sides of the hills, and these were
to form restbg-places to support the animals for a night in
their passage across. On our way across we had- set on
fire several broken stumps, and dried trees, to melt holes in
the snow for the camps. Its general depth was five feet ;
but we passed over places where it was twenty feet deep,
as shown by the trees.
With one party drawbg sleighs loaded with baggage, I
advanced to-day about four miles along the trail, and en
camped at the first grassy spot, where we expected to bring
our horses. Mr. Fitzpatrick, with another party, remained
behind, to form an intermediate station between us and the
animals. 8th. — The night has been extremely cold ; but perfectly
still, and beautifully clear. Before the sun appeared this
morning, the thermometer was 3° below zero ; 1° bgher,
when his -rays struck the lofty peaks ; and 0° when they
reached our camp.
Scenery and weather combined, must render these moun
tabs beautiful in summer ; the purity and deep-blue color of
the sky are singularly beautiful ; the days are sunny and
bright, and even warm b the noon hours ; and if we cobd
be free from the many anxieties that oppress us, even now
we would be delighted here ; but our provisions are get-
tbg fearfully scant. Sleighs arrived with baggage about
ten o'clock ; and leaving a portion of it here, we continued
on for a mile and a half, and encamped at the foot of a long
hill on this side of the open bottom.
Berber and Godey, who yesterday morning had been
sent to ascend a higher peak, got in, hungry and fatigued.
They confirmed what we had already seen. Two other
sleighs arrived in the afternoon ; and the men being fatigued,
I gave them all tea and sugar. Snow clouds began to rise
in the S. S. W. ; and, apprehensive of a storm, which would
destroy our road, I sent the people back to Mr. Fitzpatrick,
with directions to send for the animals in the mornbg. —
With me remabed Mr. Preuss, Mr. Talbot, and Carson, with
Jacob. Elevation of the camp, by the boiling point, is 7,920 feet.
9th. — During the night the weather changed, the wind

408 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
rising to a gale, and commencing to snow before daylight ;
before morbng the trail was covered. We remained quiet
in camp all day, in the course of which the weather improved.
Four sleighs arrived towards evening, with the bedding of
the men. We suffer much from the want of salt ; and all
the men are becoming weak from insufficient food.
10th. — Taplin was sent back with a few men to assist Mr.
Fitzpatrick ; and continuing on with three sleighs carrying a
part of the baggage, we had the satisfaction to encamp
within two and a half miles of the head of the hollow, and
at the foot of the last mountain ridge. Here two large
trees had been set on fire, and in the holes, where the snow
had been melted away, we found a comfortable camp.
The wind kept the air filled with snow during the day ;
the sky was very dark in the south-west, though elsewhere
very clear. The forest here has a noble appearance ; and
tall cedar is abundant; its greatest height being 130 feet,
and circumference 20, three or four feet above the ground ;
and here I see for the first time the white pine, of which
there are some magnificent trees. Hemlock spruce is among
the timber, occasionally as large as eight feet in diameter,
four feet above the ground; but, b ascendbg, it tapers
rapidly to less than one foot at the height of eighty feet. —
I have not seen any higher than 130 feet, and the slight
upper part is frequently broken off by the wbd. The white
spruce is frequent ; and the red pine {pinus Colorado of the
Mexicans) which constitutes the beautiful forest along the
banks of the Sierra Nevada to the northward, is here the
principal tree, not attaining a greater height than 140 feet,
though with sometimes a diameter of ten. Most of these
trees appeared to differ slightly from those of the same kind
on the other side of the continent.
The elevation of the camp by the boiling point, is 8,050
feet. _ We are now 1,000 feet above the level of the South
Pass in the Rocky mountain ; and still we are not done as
cending. The top of a flat ridge near was bare of snow,
and very well sprinkled with bunch-grass, sufficient to pas
ture the animals two or three days ; and this was to be their
main point of support. This ridge is composed of a com
pact trap, or basalt of a columnar structure ; over the sur
face are scattered large boulders of porus trap. The hills
are in many places entirely covered with small fragments of
volcanic rock.

TEH YEARS IN OREGON. 409
Putting on on our snow-shoes, we spent the afternoon in
exploring a road ahead. The glare of the snow, combined
with great fatigue, had rendered many people nearly blind ;
but we were fortunate in having some black silk handker
chiefs, which, worn as veils, very much relieved the eye.
11th. — High wind continued, and our trail this morning
was nearly bvisible — here and there indicated by a little
ridge of snow. Our situation became tiresome and dreary,
requiring a strong exercise of patience and resolution.
In the evening I received a message from Mr. Fitzpatrick,
acquainting me with the utter failure of his attempt to get
our mules and horses over the snow — the half bdden trail
had proved entirely too slight to support them, and they had
broken through, and were plunging about or lying half bu
ried in snow. He was occupied in endeavoring to get them
back to his camp ; and b the mean time sent to me for fur
ther instructions. I wrote to him to send the abmals imme
diately back to their old pastures ; and after havbg made
mabs and shovels, turn in all the strength of his party to
open and beat a road through the snow, strengthening it
with branches and boughs of the pines.
12th. — We made mauls, and worked hard at our end of
the road all day. The wind was high, but the sun bright,
and the snow thawing. We worked down the face of the
hill, to meet the people at the other end. Towards sun
down it began to grow cold, and we shouldered our mauls
and trudged back to camp.
1 3 th. — We continued to labor on the road ; and in the
course of the day had the satisfaction to see the people
working down the face of the opposite hill, about three
miles distant. During the morning we had the pleasure of
a visit from Mr. Fitzpatrick, with the information that all
was gobg on well. A party of Indians had passed on snow-
shoes, who said they were gobg to the western side of the
mountain after fish. This was an indication that the salmon
were coming up the streams ; and we cobd hardly restrain
our impatience as we thought of them, and worked with b-
creased vigor.
The meat train did not arrive this evening, and I gave
Godey leave to kill our little dog, (Tlamath,) which he pre
pared in Indian fashion ; scorching off the hair, and wash
ing the skin with soap and snow, and then cutting it up bto
pieces which were laid on the snow. Shortly afterwards,

410 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
the sleigh arrived with a supply of horse-meat ; and we had
to-bght an extraordinary dbner — pea-soup, mule and dog.
14th— The dividing ridge of the Sierra is b sight from
this encampment Accompanied by Mr. Preuss, I ascended
to-day the highest peak to the right ; from which we had a
beautiful view of a mountain lake at our feet, about fifteen
miles in length, and so entirely surrounded by mountains
that we cobd not discover an outlet. We had taken with
us a glass; but though we enjoyed an extended view, the
valley was half hidden in mist, as when we had seen it be
fore. Snow cobd be distinguished on the higher parts of the
coast mountabs ; eastward, as far as the eye could extend,
it ranged over a terrible mass of broken snowy mountains,
fading off blue in the distance. The rock composing the
summit consists of a very coarse, dark, volcanic conglomer
ate; the lower parts appeared of a slaty structure. The
highest trees were a few scattered cedars and aspens. From
the immediate foot of the peak, we were two hours reaching
the summit, and one hour and a quarter in descending. The
day had been very bright, still, and clear, and spring seems
to be advancing rapidly. While the sun is in the sky, the
snow melts rapidly, and gushing springs cover the face of
the mountab in all the exposed places ; but their surface
freezes bstantly with the disappearance of the sun.
I obtained to-night some observations ; and the result
from these, and others made during our stay, gives for the
latitude 38° 41' 57", longitude 120° 2.5' 57", and rate of
the chronometer 25.82".
16th. — We had succeeded in getting our animals safely
to the first grassy hill ; and this morning I started with Ja
cob on a reconnoitering expedition beyond the mountain. —
We traveled along the crests of narrow ridges, extending
down from the mountain in the direction of the valley, from
which the snow was fast melting away. On the open spots
was tolerably good grass ; and I judged we should succeed
in getting the camp down by way of these. Towards sun
down we discovered some icy spots in a deep hollow ; and,
descending the mountain, we encamped on the head-water
of a little creek, where at last the water found its way to
the Pacific.
The night was clear and very long. We heard the cries
of some wild animals, which had been attracted by our fire,
and a flock of geese passed over durbg the night. Even

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 411
these strange sounds had something pleasant to our senses
in this region of silence and desolation.
We started again early in the morning. The creek ac
quired a regular breadth of about twenty feet, and we soon
began to hear the rushing of the water below the icy sur
face, over which we traveled to avoid the snow ; a few miles
below we broke through, where the water was several feet
deep, and halted to make a fire and dry our clothes. We
continued a few miles farther, walMng being very laborious
without snow-shoes.
I was now perfectly satisfied that we had struck the
stream on which Mr. Sutter lived ; and turnbg about, made
a hard push, and reached the camp at dark. Here we had
the pleasure to find all the remabing animals, 57 b number,
safely arrived at the grassy hill near the camp ; and here,
also, we were agreeably surprised with the sight of an abun
dance of salt. Some of the horse-guard had gone to a
neighboring hut for pine nuts, and discovered unexpectedly
a large cake of very white fine-grained salt, which the In
dians told them they had brought from the other side of the
mountain ; they used it to eat with their pine nuts, and read
ily sold it for goods.
On the 19th, the people were occupied b makbg a road
and bringing up the baggage ; and, on the afternoon of the
next day, February 20, 1844, we encamped, with the ani
mals and all the materiel of the camp, on the summit of
the Pass in the dividing ridge, 1,000 miles by our traveled
road from the Dalles to the Columbia.
The people who had not yet been to this pobt, climed the
neighboring peak to enjoy a look at the valley.
The temperature of boiling water gave for the elevation
of the encampment, 9,338 feet above the sea.
This was two thousand feet higher than the South Pass
in the Rocky mountabs, and several peaks in view rose sev
eral thousand feet still higher. Thus at the extremity of
the continent, and near the coast, the phenomenon was seen
of a range of mountabs still higher than the great Rocky
mountains themselves. This extraordinary fact accounts for
the Great Basin, and shows that there must be a system of
small lakes and rivers here scattered over a flat country, and
which the extended and lofty range of the Sierra Nevada
prevents from escaping to the Pacific ocean. Latitude 38°
44' ; longitude 120° 28'.

412 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
Thus the pass in the Sierra Nevada, which so well de
serves its name of Snowy mountain, is eleven degrees west
and about four degrees south of the South Pass.
21st. — We now considered ourselves victorious over the
mountab ; having only the descent before us, and the val
ley under our eyes, we felt strong hope that we should force
our way down. But this was a case in which the descent
was not facile. Still deep fields of snow lay between them,
and there was a large intervening space of rough-looking
mountains, through which we had yet to wind our way. —
Carson roused me this morning with an early fire, and we
were all up long before day, in order to pass the snow
fields before the sun should render the crust soft. We en
joyed this morning a scene at sunrise, which even here was
unusually glorious and beautiful. Immediately above the
eastern mountains was repeated a cloud-formed mass of
purple ranges, bordered with bright yellow gold ; the peaks
shot up into a narrow fine of crimson cloud, above which
the air was filled with a greenish orange ; and over all was
the singular beauty of the blue sky. Passing along a ridge
which commanded the lake on our right, of which we began
to discover an outlet through a chasm on the west, we
passed over alternating open ground and hard crusted snow-
fields which supported the animals, and encamped on the
ridge, after a journey of six miles. The grass was better
than we had yet seen, and we were encamped in a clump of
trees 20 or 30 feet high, resembling white pbe. With the
exception of these small clumps, the ridges were bare ; and
where the snow found the support of the trees, the wind
had blown it up into banks 10 or 15 feet high. It required
much care to hunt out a practicable way, as the most open
places frequently led to impassable banks.
We had hard and doubtful labor yet before us, as the
snow appeared to be heavier where the timber. began fur
ther down, with few open spots. Ascending a height, we
traced out the best line we could discover for the next day's
march, and had at least the consolation to see that the moun
tain descended rapidly. The day had been one of April —
gusty, with a few occasional flakes of snow — which, in the
afternoon, enveloped the upper mountain in clouds. We
watched them anxiously, and now we. dreaded a snow-storm.
Shortly afterwards we heard the roll of thunder, and, look
ing towards the valley, found it enveloped in a thunder-

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 413
storm. _ For us, as connected with the idea of summer, it
had a singular charm, and we watched its progress with ex
cited feelbgs until nearly sunset, when the sky cleared off
brightly, and we saw a shibng fine of water directing its
course towards another, a broader and larger sheet. We
knew that these could be no other than the Sacrimento and
the Bay of San Francisco ; but, after our long wandering
in rugged mountabs, where so frequently we had met with
disappobtments, and where the crossbg of every ridge dis
played some unknown lake or river, we were yet almost
afraid to believe that we were at last to escape into the ge
nial country of which we had heard so many glowing de
scriptions, and dreaded to find some vast interior lake, whose
bitter waters would brmg us disappointment. On the south
ern shore of what appeared to be the bay could be traced
the gleaming lbe where entered another large stream ; and
again the Buenaventura rose up in our mbds.
Carson had entered the valley along the southern side of
the bay, and remembered perfectly to have crossed the
mouth of a very large stream, wbch they had been obliged
to raft ; but the country then was so entirely covered with
water from snow and ram, that he had been able to form no
correct impressions of water-courses.
We had the satisfaction to know that at least there were
people below. Fires were lit up in the valley just at night,
appearing to be in answer to ours : and these signs of life
renewed, b some measure, the gayety of the camp. They
appeared so near, that we judged them to be among the tim
ber of some of the neighboring ridges ; but, having them
constantly in view day after day, and night after night, we
afterwards found them to be fires that had been kindled by
the Indians among the tulares, on the shore of the bay, 80
miles distant.
Among the very few plants that appeared here, was the
common blue flax. To-night a mule was killed for food.
22d. — Our breakfast was over long before day. We took
advantage of the coolness of the early mornbg to get over
the snow, which to-day occurred in very deep banks among
the timber; but we searched out the coldest places, and
the animals passed successfbly with their loads over the
hard crust. Now and then the delay of making a road oc
casioned much labor and loss of time. In the after part
of the day, we saw before us a handsome grassy ridge

414 TEN YEARS IN 0RREG0N.
point ; and making a desperate push over a snow-field ten or
fifteen feet deep, we happily succeeded in getting the camp
across, and encamped on the ridge, after a march of three
miles. We had again the prospect of a thunder-storm be
low, and to-night we killed another mule — now our only re
source from starvation.
We satisfied ourselves during the day that the lake had
an outlet between two ranges on the right ; and with this
the creek on which I had encamped probably effected a
junction below. Between these we were descending.
We continued to enjoy the same delightful weather ; the
sky of the same beautiful blue, and such a sunset and sun
rise as on our Atlantic coast we could scarcely imagine. —
And here among the mountabs, 9,000 feet above the sea,
we have the deep blue sky and sunny climate of Smyrna
and Palermo, which a little map before me shows are in the
same latitude.
Elevation above the sea, by the boiling pobt, is 8,565 feet.
23d. — This was our most difficult day; we were forced
off the ridges by the quantity of snow among the timber,
and obliged to take to the mountain sides, where occasion
ally rocks and a southern exposure afforded us a chance to
scramble along. But these were steep, and slippery with
snow and ice ; and the tough evergreens of the mountab
impeded our way, tore our skins, and exhausted our pa
tience. Some of us had the misfortune to wear moccasins
with parfleche soles, so slippery that we could not keep our
feet, and generally crawled across the snow-beds. Axes
and mauls were necessary to-day, to make a road through
the snow. Going .ahead with Carson to reconnoitre the
road, we reached in the afternoon the river which made the
outlet of the lake. Carson sprang over, clear across a place
where the stream was compressed among rocks, but the
parfleche sole of my moccasin glanced from the icy rock,
and precipitated me into the river. It was some few sec
onds before I could recover myself in the current, and Car
son, thinking me hurt, jumped in after me, and we both had
an icy bath. We tried to search awble for my gun, which
had been lost in the fall, but the cold drove us out ; and ma
king a large fire on the bank, after we had partially dried
ourselves we went back to meet the camp. We afterwards
found that the gun had been slung under the ice which
lined the banks of the creek.

TEN YNARS IN OREGON. 415
Usbg our old plan of breaking roads with alternate hor
ses, we reached the creek in the evening, and encamped on
a dry open place in the ravine.
Another branch which we had followed, here comes in on
the left ; and from this point the mountain wall, on wbch
we had traveled to-day, faces to the south along the right
bank of the river, where the sun appears to have melted
the snow ; but the opposite ridge is entirely covered. —
Here among the pines, the hill side produces but little grass
— barely sufficient to keep life in the animals. We had the
pleasure to be rained upon this afternoon ; and grass was
now our greatest solicitude. Many of the men looked badly ;
and some this evening were giving out.
24th. — We rose at three in the morning, for an astronom
ical observation, and obtained for the place a lat. of 38° 46'
58". The sky was clear and pure, with a sharp wind from
the northeast, and thermometer 2° below the freezing pobt.
We continued down the south face of the mountain ; our
road leading over dry ground, we were able to avoid the
snow almost entirely. In the course of the morbng, we
struck a foot path, which we were generally able to keep ;
and the ground was soft to our animals' feet, being sandy
or covered with mould. Green grass began to make its ap
pearance, and occasionally we found a hill scatteringly cov
ered with it. The character of the forest continued the same ;
and, among the trees, the pbe with sharp leaves and very
large cones was abundant, some of them being noble trees.
We measured one that had ten feet diameter, though the
height was not more than one hundred and thirty feet. All
along, the river was a roaring torrent, its fall very great ;
and, descending with a rapidity to which we had long been
strangers, to our great pleasure oak trees appeared on the
ridge, and soon became very frequent ; on these I remarked
great quantities of mistletoe. Rushes began to make their
appearance ; and at a small creek where they were abundant,
one of the messes was left with the weakest horses, while
we continued on.
The opposite mountab side was very steep and continuous
— unbroken by ravines, and covered with pbes and snow ;
while on the side we were traveling, innumerable rivulets
poured down from the ridge. Continuing on, we halted a
moment at one of these rivulets, to admire some beautifb
evergreen trees, resembling live oak, which shaded the little

416 TEN YEARS TN OREGON.
stream. They were forty to fifty feet high, and two in diam
eter, with a uniform tufted top ; and the summer green 01
their beautiful foliage, with the singing birds, and the sweet
summer wind which was whirling about the dry oak leaves,
nearly intoxicated us with delight ; and we hurried on, bled
with excitement, to escape entirely from the horrid region of
inhospitable snow, to the perpetual spring of the Sacramento.
When we had traveled about ten miles, the valley opened
a little to an oak and pine bottom, through which ran rivu
lets closely bordered with rushes, on which our half-starved
horses fell with avidity ; and here we made our encampment.
Here the roaring torrent has already become a river, and we
had descended to an elevation of 3,864 feet.
Along our road to-day the rock was a white granite,
which appears to constitute the upper parts of the moun
tains on both the eastern and western slopes ; while between,
the central is a volcanic rock.
Another horse was killed to-night, for food.
25th — Believing that the difficulties of the road were pas
sed, and leaving Mr. Fitzpatrick to follow slowly, as the con
dition of the animals required, I started ahead this morning
with a party of eight, consisting of myself, Mr. Preuss and
Mr. Talbot, Carson, Derosier, Towns, Proue, and Jacob. —
We look with us some of the best animals, and my intention
was to proceed as rapidly as possible to the house of Mr.
Sutler, and return to meet the party with a supply of pro
visions and fresh animals.
Continuing down the river, which pursued a very direct
westerly course through a narrow valley, with only a very
slight and narrow bott )m-land, we made twelve miles, and
encamped at some old Indian huts, apparently a fishing-
place, on the river. The bottom was covered with trees of
deciduous foliage, and overgrown with vines and rushes. —
On a bench of the hill near by, was a hill of fresh green
grass, six inches long in some of the tofts which I had the
curiosity to measure. The animals were driven here ; and
I spent part of the afternoon sitting on a large rock among
them, enjoybg the pauseless rapidity with which they luxu
riated on the unaccustomed food.
The forest was imposing to-day in the magnificence of
the trees ; some of the pbes bearing large cones, were ten
feet in diameter. Cedars also abounded, and we measured
one twenty-eight and a half feet in circumference, four feet

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 417
from the ground. This noble tree seemed here to be b its
proper soil and climate. We found it on both sides of the
Sierra, but most abundant on the west.
26th. — We continued to follow the stream, the mountabs
on either hand increasbg b height as we descended, and
shuttbg up the river narrowly in precipices, along wbch
we had great difficbty to get our horses.
It rabed heavily during the afternoon, and we were forced
off the river to the heights above ; whence we descended,
at night-fall, the pobt of a spur between the river and a
fork of nearly equal size, coming b from the right. Here
we saw, on the lower hils, the first flowers b bloom, which
occurred suddeby, and in considerable quantity — one of
them a species of gilia.
The current in both streams (rather torrents than rivers)
was broken by large bobders. It was late and the animals
fatigued ; and not succeeding to find a ford immediately, we
encamped, although the hill-side afforded but a few stray
bunches of grass, and the horses, standing about in the rab,
looked very miserable.
27th. — We succeeded in fording the stream, and made a
trail by which we crossed the point of the opposite hill,
which, on the southern exposure, was prettily covered with
green grass, and we halted a mile from our last encamp
ment. The river was only about sixty feet wide, but rapid,
and occasionally deep, foaming among bobders, and the wa
ter beautifully clear. We encamped on the hill-slope, as
there was no bottom level, and the opposite ridge is con
tinuous, affording no streams.
We had with us a large kettle ; and a mule being killed
here, his head was boiled b it for several hours, and made
a passable soup for famished people.
Below, precipices on the river forced us to the heights,
which we ascended by a steep spur, 2,000 feet high. My
favorite horse, Proveau, had become very weak, and was
scarcely able to bring himself to the top. Travelling here
was good, except b crossbg the ravbes, wbch were nar
row, steep, and frequent. We caught a glimpse of a deer,
the first abmal we had seen ; but did not succeed b ap
proaching him. Proveau cobd not keep up, and I left Ja
cob to bring him on, bebg obliged to press forward with
the party, as there was no grass in the forest. We grew
27

418 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
very anxious as the day advanced and no grass appeared,
for the fives of our animals depended on finding it to-night.
They were in just such a condition that grass and repose for
the night enabled them to get on the next day. Every
hour we had been expecting to see open out before us the
valley, which, from the mountab above, seemed almost at
our feet. A new and singular shrub, which had made its
appearance since crossing the mountain, was very frequent
to-day. It branched out near the ground, forming a clump
eight to ten feet high, with pale -green leaves, of an oval
form ; and the body and branches had a naked appearance,
as if stripped of the bark, which is very smooth and tbn,
of a chocolate color, contrasting well with the pale-green of
the leaves. The day was nearly gone ; we had made a hard
day's march, and found no grass. Towns became light
headed, wandering off into the woods without knowing
where he was going, and Jacob brought him back.
Near night-fall we descended bto the steep ravine of a
handsome creek 30 feet wide, and I was engaged in getting
the horses up the opposite hill, when I heard a shout from
Carson, who had gone ahead a few hundred yards — " Life
yet," said he, as he came up, "life yet ; I have found a hill
side sprinkled with grass enough for the night." We drove
along our horses, and encamped at the place about dark,
and there was just room enough to make a place for shelter
on the edge of the stream. Three horses were lost to-day
— Proveau ; a fine young horse from the Columbia, belong
ing to Charles Towns ; and another Indian horse, wbch
carried our cooking utensils. The two former gave out, and
the latter strayed off into the woods as we reached the
camp. 29th — We lay shut up in the narrow ravine, and gave the
animals a necessary day ; and men were sent back after the
others. Derosier volunteered to bring up Proveau, to
whom he knew I was greatly attached, as he had been my
favorite horse on both expeditions. Carson and I climbed
one of the nearest mountabs ; the forest land still extended
ahead, and the valley appeared as far as ever; The pack
horse was found near the camp ; but Derosier did not get
in. March 1st. — Derosier did not get b during the bght,
and leavbg him to follow, as no grass remamed here, we

TEN YEARS IN OREGON 419
continued on over the uplands, crossbg many small streams,
and camped again on the river, havbg made six miles. —
Here we found the hill side covered (although lightly) with
fresh green grass ; and from this time forward we found it
always improving and abundant.
We made a pleasant camp on the river hill, where were
some beautiful specimens of the chocolate-colored shrub,
which were a foot in diameter near the ground, and fifteen
to twenty feet high. The opposite ridge runs continuously
along, unbroken by streams. We are rapidly descendbg
into the spring, and we are leaving our snowy region far be
hbd ; every thbg is getting green ; butterflies are swarm
ing ; numerous bugs are creeping out, wakened from then-
winter's sleep ; and the forest flowers are coming bto
bloom. Among those which appeared most numerously to
day was dodecatheon dentatum.
We began to be uneasy at Derosier's absence, fearing he
might have been bewildered in the woods. Charles Towns,
who had not yet recovered Ms mind, went to swb b the
river, as if it were summer, and the stream placid, when it
was a cold mountain torrent foaming among the rocks. We
were happy to see Derosier appear in the evebng. He
came in, and, sittbg down by the fire, began to tell us
where he had been. He imagined he had been gone sever
al days, and thought we were still at the camp where he
had left us ; and we were pained to see that bs mind was
deranged. It appeared that he had been lost b the moun
tab, and hunger and fatigue, joined to weakness of body
and fear of perishing b the mountabs, had crazed him. —
The times were severe when stout men lost their minds from
extremity of suffering — when horses died — and when mbes
and horses, ready to die of starvation, were killed for food.
Yet there was no murmuring or hesitation.
A short distance below our encampment the river moun
tains terminated in precipices, and, after a fatigubg march
of only a few miles, we encamped on a bench where there
were springs, and an abundance of the freshest grass. In
the mean time Mr. Preuss continued on down the river, and,
unaware that we had encamped so early in the_ day, was
lost. When night, arrived and he did not come in, we be
gan to understand what had happened to him ; but it was
too late to make any search.

42!0 5*ff YEARS IN ©\REG0N
3d. — We followed Mr. Preuss' trail for a considerable dis
tance along the river, until we reached a place where he had1
descended to the stream below and encamped. Here we
shouted and fired .guns, but received no answer ; and we
eoncbded that he had pushed on down the stream. I de
termined to keep out from the river, along which it was
nearly impracticable to travel with animals, until it should
form a valley. At every step the country improved in
beauty ; the pbes were rapidly disappearing, and oaks be
came the principal trees of the forest. Among these, the
prevailbg tree was the evergreen oak, (which by way of
distinction, we call the live-oak ;) and with these occurred
frequently a new species of oak bearing a long slender
acorn, from an bch to an bch and a half in length, wbch
we now began to see formed the principal vegetable food of
the bhabitants of this region. In a short distance we
crossed a little rivbet, where were two old huts, and near
by were heaps of acorn-hulls. The ground round about
was very rich, covered with an exuberant sward of grass ;
and we sat down for a while b the shade of the oaks, to let
the abmals feed. We repeated our shouts for Mr. Preuss ;
and this time were gratified with an answer. The voice
grew rapidly nearer, ascending from the river ; but when we
expected to see him emerge, it ceased entirely. We had
called up some straggling Indian — the first we had met, al
though for two days back we had seen tracks — who, mista-
Mng us for his fellows, had been only undeceived on getting
close up. It would have been pleasant to witness his as
tonishment ; he wobd not have been more frightened had
some of the old mountab spirits they are so much afraid of,
suddenly appeared in his path. Ignorant of the character
of these people, we had now an additional cause of uneasi
ness in regard to Mr. Preuss ; he had no arms with him,
and we began to think his chance doubtful. We followed
on a trail, still keeping out from the river, and descended to
a very large creek, dasbng with great velocity over a pre-
embently rocky bed, and among large boulders. The bed
had sudden breaks, formed by deep holes and ledges of
rock runnbg across. Even here, it deserves the name of
Rock creek, which we gave to it. We succeeded in fordbg
it, and toiled about three thousand feet up the opposite hill.
The mountabs now were getting sensibly lower ; but still

TSN YEARS IN OREGON. 421
there is no valley on the river, which presents steep and
rocky banks; but here, several miles from the river, the
country is smooth and grassy ; the forest has no under
growth ; and in the open valleys of rivulets, or around
spring -heads, the low groves of live-oak give the appear
ance of orchards in an old cultivated country. Occasionally
we met deer, but had not the necessary time for huntbg. —
At one of these orchard grounds, we encamped about noon
to make an effort for Mr. Preuss. One man took his way
along a spur leading into the river, in hope to cross his trail ;
and another took our own back. Both were volunteers : and
to the successful man was promised a pair of pistols — not
as a reward, but as a token of gratitude for a service which
wobd free us all from much anxiety.
We had among our few animals a horse which was so
much redueed, that, with traveling, even the good grass
-could not save him ; and, having nothing to eat, he was
killed this afternoon. He was a good animal, and had
made the journey round from Fort Hall.
Dodecatheon dentatum continued the characteristic plant
in flower ; and the naked looking shrub already mentioned
continued characteristic, begbbng to put forth a small
white blossom. At evening the men returned, having seen
or heard nothbg of Mr. Preuss ; and I determined to make
a hard push down the river the next mornbg and get ahead
«f him.
4th. — We continued rapidly along on a broad plainly-
beaten trail, the mere traveling and breathing the delight
ful air being a positive enjoyment. Our road led along a
ridge inclbing to the river, and the air and the open grounds
were fragrant with flowering shrubs ; and in the course of
the morbng we issued on an open spur, by which we de
scended directly to the stream. Here the river issues sud
denly from the mountains, which hitherto had hemmed it
elosely in ; these now become softer, and change sensibly
their character ; and at this point commences the most beau
tiful valley in which we had ever traveled. We hurried to
the river, on whieh we noticed a small sand beach, to which
Mr. Preuss would naturally have gone. We found no trace
of him, but, instead, were recent tracks of bare-footed In
dians, and little piles of muscle shells, and old fires where
they had roasted the fish. We traveled on over the river

422 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
grounds, which were undulating, and covered with grass to
the river brink. We halted to noon a few miles beyond,
always under the shade of the evergreen oaks, which formed
open groves on the bottoms.
Continuing our road in the afternoon, we ascended to the
uplands, where the river passes round a point of great beauty,
and goes through very remarkable dalles, in character re
sembling those of the Columbia. Beyond, we again de
scended to the bottoms, where we found an Indian village,
consisting of two or three huts ; we had come upon them
suddenly, and the people had evidently just run off._ The
huts were low and slight, made like bee-hives b a picture,
five or six feet high, and near each was a crate, formed of
interlaced branches and grass, in size and shape like a very
large hogshead. Each of these contabed from six to nine
bushels. These were filled with the long acorns already
mentioned, and in the huts were several neatly made basr
kets, contabing quantities of the acorns roasted. They
were sweet and agreeably flavored, and we supplied our
selves with about half a bushel, leaving one of our shirts, a
handkerchief, and some smaller articles, in exchange. The
river agab entered for a space among the hills, and we fol
lowed a trail leading across a bend through a handsome hol
low behind. Here, while engaged in trying to circumvent a
deer, we discovered some Indians on a hill several hundred
yards ahead, and gave them a shout, to which they respon
ded by loud and rapid talking and vehement gesticulation,
but made no stop, hurrying up the mountab as fast as their
legs cobd carry them. We passed on and agab encamped
in a grassy grove.
The absence of Mr. Preuss gave me great concern ; and,
for a large reward, Derosier volunteered to go back on the
trail. I directed him to search along the river, travelbg
upward for the space of a day and a half, at wbch time I
expected he would meet Mr. Fitzpatrick, whom I requested
to aid in the search ; at all events he was to go no farther,
but return to this camp, where a cache of provisions was
made for him.
Continuing the next day down the river, we discovered
three squaws in a little bottom, and surrounded them before
they could make their escape. They had large conical bas
kets, which they were engaged in filling with a small leafy

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 423
plant (erodium cicutarium) just now begbning to bloom,
and covering the ground like a sward of grass. These did
not make any lamentations, but appeared very much im
pressed with our appearance, speaMng to us only in a whis
per, and offering us smaller baskets of the plant, which they
signified to us was good to eat, maMng signs also that it was
to be cooked by the fire. We drew out a little cold horse
meat, and the squaws made signs to us that the men had
gone out after deer, and that we cobd have some by wait
ing till they came in. We observed that the horses ate with
great avidity the herb wbch they had been gatherbg ; and
here also, for the first time, we saw Indians eat the common
grass — one of the squaws pulling several tufts, and eating
it with apparent relish. Seeing our surprise, she pointed to
the horses; but we could not well understand what she
meant, except, perhaps, that what wasgood for the one was
good for the other.
We encamped in the evening on the shore of the river, at
a place where the associated beauties of scenery made so
strong an impression on us that we gave it the name of
Beautifb Camp. The undulating river shore was shaded
with the live-oaks, which formed a contbuous grove over
the country, and the same grassy sward extended to the
edge of the water, and we made our fires near some large
granite masses which were lying among the trees. We had
seen several of the acorn caches during the day, and here
there were two which were very large, contabbg each,
probably, ten bushels. Towards evening we heard a weak
shout among the hills behind, and had the pleasure to see
Mr. Preuss descending towards the camp. Like ourselves,
he had traveled to-day 25 miles, but had seen nothing of
Derosier. Knowbg, on the day he was lost, that I was de
termined to keep the river as much as possible, he had not
thought it necessary to follow the trail very closely, but
walked on, right and left, certain to find it somewhere along
the river, searching places to obtab good views of the
country. Towards sun-set he climbed down towards the
river to look for the camp ; but, finding no trail, concluded
that we were behind, and walked back till night came on,
when, being very much fatigued, he collected drift-wood
and made a large fire among the rocks. The next day it
became more serious, and he encamped again alone, thinking

424 TEN YEARS TN OREGON.
that we must have taken some other course. To go back
would have been madness in his weak and starved condition,
and onward towards the valley was his only hope, always in
expectation of reaching it soon. His principal means of
subsistence were a few roots, which the hunters call sweet
onions, having very little taste, but a good deal of nutri
ment, growing generally in rocky ground, and requiring a
good deal of labor to get, as he had only a pocket-knife. —
Searching for these, he found a nest of big ants, which he
let run on his hand, and stripped them off in his mouth ;
these had an agreeable acid taste. One of his greatest pri
vations was the want of tobacco ; and a pleasant smoke at
evenbg would have been a relief which only a voyageur
could appreciate. He tried the dried leaves of the live-oak,
knowing that those of other oaks were sometimes used as a
substitute ; but these were too thick, and would not do. —
On the 4th he ma8e seven or eight miles, walking slowly
along the river, avoidbg as much as possible to climb the
hills. In little pools he caught some of the smallest kind
of frogs, wbch he swallowed, not so much b the gratifica
tion of hunger, as in the hope of obtaibng some strength.
Scattered along the river were old fire-places, where the In
dians had roasted muscles and acorns ; but though he
searched diligently, he did not there succeed in finding ei
ther. He had collected firewood for the bght, when he
heard, at some distance from the river, the barking of what
he thought were two dogs, and walked in that direction as
quickly as he was able, hoping to find there some Indian
hut, but met only two wolves ; and, in his disappobtment
the gloom of the forest was doubled.
Travelling the next day feebly down the river, he found
five or six Indians at the huts of which we have spoken ;
some were painting themselves black, and others roastbg
acorns. Being only one man, they did not run off, but re
ceived him kindly, and gave him a welcome supply of roasted
acorns. He gave them his pocket-knife b return, and
stretched out his hand to one uf the Indians, who did not
appear to comprehend the motion, but jumped back, as if
he thought he was about to lay hold of him. They seemed
afraid of bm, not certain as to what he was.
Traveling on, he came to the place where we had found
the squaws. Here he found our fire still burnbg, and the

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 425
tracks of the horses. The sight gave bm sudden hope and
courage ; and, foUowbg as fast as he could, jobed us at
evenbg. 6th. — We contbued on our road through the same sur
passingly beautiful country, entirely unequalled for the pas
turage of stock by any thbg we had ever seen. Our hor
ses had now become so strong that they were able to carry
us, and we traveled rapidly — over four miles an hour ; four
of us riding every alternate hour. Every few hundred
yards we came upon a little band of deer ; but we were too
eager to reach the settlement, which we momentarily ex
pected to discover, to halt for any other than a passing
shot. In a few hours we reached a large fork, the northern
branch of the river, and equal b size to that wbch we had
descended. Together they formed a beautifb stream, 60 to
100 yards wide ; wbch at first, ignorant of the nature of
the country through which that river ran, we took to be the
Sacramento. We continued down the right bank of the river, travelbg
for a while over a wooded upland, where we had the de
light to discover tracks of cattle. To the southwest was
visible a black column of smoke, which we had frequently
noticed b descending, arisbg from the fires we had seen
from the top of the Sierra. From the upland we descended
into broad groves on the river, consisting of the evergreen,
and a new species of white-oak, with a large tbted top, and
tbee to six feet in diameter. Among these was no brush
wood ; and the grassy surface gave to it the appearance of
parks b an old settled country. Following the tracks of the
horses and eattle, b search of people, we discovered a village
of Indians. Some of these had on shirts of civilized man
ufacture, but were otherwise naked, and we could under
stand nothing from them ; they appeared entirely astonished
at seebg us.
We made an acorn meal at noon, and hurried on ; the
valley bebg gay with flowers, and some of the banks being
absolutely golden with the CaUforban poppy, (eschescholtzia
crocea.) Here the grass was smooth and green, and the
groves very open ; the large oaks throwbg a broad shade
among sunny spots. Shortly afterwards we gave a shout at
the appearance, on a little bluff, of a neatly-built adobe
house, with glass wbdows. We rode up, but, to our dis-

426 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
appointment, found only Indians. There was no appear
ance of cultivation, and we could see no cattle; and we
supposed the place had been abandoned. We now pressed
on more eagerly than ever : the river swept round a large
bend to the right ; the hills lowered down entirely ; and,
gradually entering a broad valley, we came unexpectedly
into a large Indian village, where the people looked clean,
and wore cotton shirts and various other articles of dress.
They immediately crowded around us, and we had the in
expressible delight to find one who spoke a little bdifferent
Spanish, but who at first cobounded us by saying there
were no whites in the country ; but just then a well dressed
Indian came up, and made his salutations in very well spo
ken Spanish. In answer to our inqbries, he bformed us
that we were upon the Rio de los Americanos, (the river of
the Americans) and that it joined the Sacramento river
about ten miles below. Never did a name sound more
sweetly ! We felt ourselves among our own countrymen ;
for the name of American, in these distant parts, is applied
to the citizens of the Ubted States. To our eager bqbries
he answered, " I am a vaquero (cowherd) b the service of
Capt. Sutter, and the people of this rancheria work for him."
Our evident satisfaction made him commumcative ; and he
went on to say that Capt. Sutter was a very rich man, and
always glad to see Ms country people. We asked for Ms
house. He answered, that it was just over the hill before
us ; and offered, if we would wait a moment, to take Ms horse
and conduct us to it. We readily accepted tMs civil offer.
In a short distance we came in sight of the fort ; and, pas
sing on the way the house of a settler on the opposite side,
(a Mr. Sinclair,) we forded the river ; and b a few miles
were met, a short distance from the fort, by Capt. Sutter
himself. He gave us a most frank and cordial reception —
conducted us immediately to his residence — and under Ms
hospitable roof we had a night of rest, enjoyment, and re
freshment, wMch none but ourselves could appreciate. But
the party left in the mountains, with Mr. Fitzpatrick, were
to be attended to ; and the next mornbg, supplied with
fresh horses and provisions, I hurried off to meet them. —
On the second day we met, a few miles below the forks of
the Rio de los Americanos ; and a more forlorn and pitiable
sight than they presented, cannot well be imagined. They

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 427
were all on foot — each man, weak and emaciated, leading a
horse or mule as weak and emaciated as themselves. They
had experienced great difficulty in descending the mountabs,
made slippery by rams and melting snows, and many horses
fell over precipices, and were killed ; and with some were
lost the packs they carried. Among these, was a mule with
the plants wbch we had collected since leaving Fort Hall,
along a lbe of 2,000 miles' travel. Out of 67 horses and
mules, with which we commenced crossing the Sierra, oby
33 reached the valley of the Sacrimento, and they only in a
condition to be led along. Mr. Fitzpatrick and his party,
travelbg more slowly, had been able to make some little ex
ertion at huntbg, and had killed a few deer. The scanty
supply was a great relief to them ; for several had been
made sick by the strange and unwholesome food which the
preservation of life had compelled them to use. We stopped
and encamped as soon as we met ; and a repast of good
beef, excellent bread, and delicious salmon, which I had
brought along, was their first relief from the sufferings of
the Sierra, and their first introduction to the luxuries of the
Sacramento. It reqbred all our philosophy and forbearance
to prevent plenty from becoming as hurtful to us now, as
scarcity had been before.
The next day, March 8th, we encamped at the junction
of the two rivers, the Sacramento and Americanos ; and
thus found the whole party in the beautiful valley of the
Sacramento. It was a convenient place for the camp ; and,
among other things, was within reach of the wood necessa
ry to make the pack-saddles, which we should need on our
long journey home, from which we were farther distant now
than we were four months before, when from the Dalles of
the Columbia we so cheerfully took up the homeward line
of march.
Captain Sutter emigrated to this country from the west
ern part of Missouri b 1838-39, and formed the first settle
ment in the valley, on a large grant of land which he ob
tained from the Mexican Government. He had, at first,
some trouble with the Indians ; but, by the occasional ex
ercise of well-timed authority, he has succeeded in convert
ing them into a peaceable and industrious people. The
ditches around his extensive wheat-fields ; the plowing, har
rowing, and other agricultural operations, are entirely the

428 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
work of these Indians, for which they receive a very mode
rate compensaiton — principally in sbrts, blankets, and other
articles of clothing. In the same manner, on application to
the chief of a village, he readily obtains as many boys and
girls as he has any use for. There were at this time a num
ber of girls at the fort, in training for a future woolen factory ;
but they were now all busily engaged in constantly water
ing the gardens, which the unfavorable dryness of the sea
son rendered it necessary. The occasional dryness of some
seasons, I understood to be the only complaint of the set
tlers in this fertile valley, as it sometimes renders the crops
uncertain. Mr. Sutter was about maMng arrangements to
irrigate his lands by means of the Rio de los Americanos.
He had this year sown, and altogether by Indian labor, three
hundred fanegas of wheat.
A few years since, the neighboring Russian establishment
of Ross, bebg about to withdraw from the country, sold to
him a large number of stock, with agricultural and other
stores, with a number pieces of artillery and other munitions
of war ; for these, a regular yearly payment is made in grain.
The fort is a quadrangular adobe structure, mounting 12
pieces of artillery, (two of them brass,) and capable of
admitting a garrison of a thousand men ; this, at present,
consists of forty Indians in uniform — one of whom was al
ways found on duty at the gate. As might naturally be
expected, the pieces are not in very good order. The whites
b the employment of Capt. Sutter, American, French, and
German, amount, perhaps, to thirty men. The inner wall is
formed bto buildings, comprising the common quarters, with
blacksmith and other workshops ; the dwelling house, with
a large distillery-house and other bbldbgs, occupying more
the centre of the area.
It is bblt upon a pond-'like stream, at times a running
creek communicating with the Rio de los Americanos, whieh
enters the Sacramento about two miles below. The latter
is here a noble river, about three hundred yards broad, deep
and tranquil, with several fathoms of water in the channel,
and its banks continuously timbered. There were two ves
sels belonging to Captain Sutter at anchor near the landing
— one a large two-masted lighter, and the other a schooner,
which was shortly to proceed on a voyage to Fort Vancou
ver for a cargo of goods.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 429
Since his arrival, several other persons, principally Amer
icans, have established themselves in the valley. Mr. Sin
clair, from whom I experienced much kbdness durbg my
stay, is settled a few miles distant, on the Rio de los Amer
icanos. Mr. Coudrois, a gentleman from Germany, has es
tablished himself on Feather river, and is associated with
Capt. Sutter in agricultural pursuits. Among other im
provements they are about to introduce the cbtivation of
rape-seed, (brassica rapus,) which there is every reason to
believe is admirably adapted to the climate and soil. The
lowest average produce of wheat, as far as we can at pres
ent know, is thirty-five fanegas for one sown ; but, as an in
stance of its fertility, it may be mentioned that Senor Val-
ejo obtabed, on a pieee of ground where sheep had been
pastured, 800 fanegas for eight sown. The produce being
different in various places, a very correct idea cannot be
formed. An impetus was given to the active little population by
our arrival, as we were in want of every thing. Mules,
horses, and cattle, were to be collected ; the horse-mill was
at work day and night, to make sufficient flour ; the black
smith's shop was put in reqbsition for horse-shoes and bri
dle-bits ; and pack-saddles, ropes, and bridles, and all the
other little equipments of the camp were again to be provi
ded. The delay thus occasioned was one of repose and enjoy
ment, which our situation reqbred, and, anxious as we were
to resume our homeward journey, was regretted by no one.
In the mean time, I had the pleasure to meet with Mr.
CMles, who was residing at a farm on the other side of the
river Sacramento, while engaged in the selection of a place
for a settlement, for which he had received the necessary
grant of land from the Mexican government.
It will be remembered that we had parted near the fron
tier of the stales, and that he had subsequently descended
the valley of Lewis's fork, with a party of ten or twelve men,
with the intention of crossing the intermediate mountabs to
the waters of the Bay of San Francisco. In the execution
of this design, and aided by subsequent information, he left
the Calumbia at the mouth of Maiheur river, and making
his way to the head-waters of the Sacramento with a part
of his company, traveled down that river to the settlements

430 TEN YEARS IN OREGON.
of Nueva Helvetia. The other party, to whom he had com
mitted his wagons, and mill-irons, and saws, took a course
further to the south, and the wagons and their contents
were lost.
On the 22d we made a preparatory move, and encamped
near the settlement of Mr. Sinclair, on the left bank of the
Rio de los Americanos. I had discharged five of the party ;
Neal, the blacksmith, (an excellent workman, and an unmar
ried man, who had done Ms duty faithfully, and had been of
very great service to me,) desired to remain, as strong in
ducements were offered here to mechanics.
Although at considerable inconvenience to myself, his
good conduct induced me to comply with his request ; and
I obtamed for Mm from Capt. Sutter, a present compensation
of two dollars and a half per diem, with a promise that it
should be increased to five, if he proved as good a workman
as had been represented. He was more particularly an ag
ricultural blacksmith. The other men were discharged with
their own consent.
While we remained at this place, Derosier, one of our
best men, whose steady good conduct had won my regard,
wandered off from the camp, and never returned to it again,
nor has he since been heard of. — Fremont's Oregon.

F3 S3

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