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may not reproduce this digitized copy of the book for
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BURNABY'S TRAVELS
THROUGH
NORTH AMERICA

REPRINTED FROM THE THIRD
EDITION OF 1 798

WITH INTRODUCTION AND NOTES BY
RUFUS ROCKWELL WILSON

JBeto porfe
A. WESSELS COMPANY
1904

Copyright, IG-04, hy
A. Wessels Company, New York
Printed August, 1904

The Plimpton Press Norwood Mass.

CONTENTS.

Page
Editor's Foreword (new)  7
Preface to the Third Edition  15
Introduction  21
Travels  29
Appendices ; viz.
N° 1 . Catalogue of Trees, Plants, Birds,
Fishes, Animals, &c. mentioned in the
Course of this Work ; with their com
mon Names, and the Names given
them by Catesby and Linnaeus . . 157
N° 2. Tables and Statements relating
to the Commercial Situation of the
United States, both before and since
the American War  162
N° 3. Anecdotes of the Indians . . . 189
N° 4.  of several Branches of
the Fairfax Family, now domiciliated
in Virginia  197
N° 5. Diary of the Weather .... 215
Editorial Notes (new)  253
Index (new)  263

EDITOR'S FOREWORD.
THE author of the volume to which this serves
as introduction was born in 1734 at Asfordby,
in Leicestershire, the eldest son and name
sake of the Reverend Andrew Burnaby, a well-to-do
clergyman of the Church of England, who served
successively as vicar of St. Margaret's, Leicester,
rector of Asfordby and prebendary of Lincoln.
The younger i Burnaby was admitted into West
minster School in 1748, and proceeded thence to
Queen's College, Cambridge, where he took the de
gree of Bachelor of Arts in 1754, and three years-
later, that of Master of Arts. ( In 1759 and 1760, he
travelled through the American colonies, and from
1762 to 1767, having in the meantime taken orders,
he was chaplain to the British factory at Leghorn.
During his sojourn in Italy he explored all parts of
that country and travelled in Corsica, of which, in
1804, he published an account. In 1769, soon after
his return to England, he was nominated to the
vicarage of Greenwich, and in 1786 he was pre-
[7]

Foreword
sented to the archdeaconry of Leicester. He suc
ceeded to large estates in Huntingdonshire on his
father's death in 1767, but Baggrave Hall, Leicester
shire, the inheritance of his wife Anna, daughter of
John Edwyn, whom he married in 1770, was his
favorite place of residence. He died at Blackheath,
on March 9, 181 2, and within a fortnight his wife
followed him to the grave. One of his descendants
in the fourth generation was Frederick Burnaby, the
soldier and traveller, who was killed in 1885 at the
battle of Abu Klea in the Soudan.
Burnaby tells in his introduction how the record
of his travels through the American colonies found
its way into print. First published in 1775, it
reached a second edition within a year and was
speedily translated into French and German. The
original was reissued in much enlarged form in 1798,
and from that edition the present reprint is made.
Burnaby's book well deserves a new lease of life, for
he was an acute though kindly observer, and his visit
to the colonies fell in an interesting and critical time:
the Seven Years' War which wrought the downfall
of the French power in America was just drawing to
a close, and in the political sky was heard the low,
insistent rumblings of the storm which was to break
at Concord and Bunker Hill.
It should be remembered that the author's point
of view was that of a devoted minister of the Church
of England and loyal supporter of the crown. Thus
[8]

Foreword
his religious and political inclinings color his impres
sions of country and people. There is evidence on
every page, however, that he was moved by a sincere
purpose to be truthful and just, and he helps not a
little to a fuller and more accurate knowledge of a
confused and troubled period in our history. The
editor has conformed the author's spelling of proper
names to present usages, and has added such notes
as seemed necessary to make certain of his allusions
clear to the average reader.
R. R. W.

[9]

TRAVELS THROUGH THE
MIDJDLE SETTLEMENTS
I N
NORTH AMERICA,
IN THE YEARS I 7 5 9 AND 1760;
WITH
OBSERVATIONS UPON THE STATE OF THE COLONIES

By the Rev. ANDREW BURNABY, d.d.
ARCHDEACON OF LEICESTER AND VICAR OF GREENWICH.

EDITION THE THIRD;
REVISED, CORRECTED, AND GREATLY ENLARGED, BY THE AUTHOR.

LONDON
PRINTED FOR T. PAYNE, AT THE MEWS-GATE.

I798
[Facsimile Title Page, Third Edition.]

TO
SIR JOHN DICK, Bart.
&c. &c. bfe.
this third edition of
TRAVELS THROUGH THE MIDDLE SETTLEMENTS
IN NORTH AMERICA,
is,
in testimony of the sincerest affection and gratitude,
most respectfully inscribed,
by his ever faithful
and obliged humble servant,
ANDREW BURNABY.

Greenwich, August 27, 1798.

PREFACE TO THE
THIRD EDITION.
THE two former Editions of these Travels
were published, one immediately after the
other, at a moment, when events of the
greatest magnitude, and importance to this country,
were depending; and when the minds of men were
extremely agitated and alarmed for the fate of the
British Empire. A rupture between Great Britain
and her American Colonies was seriously appre
hended: and as men foresaw, or at least fancied they
foresaw, very calamitous consequences arising from
so disastrous an event, it was generally wished that
the evil might, if possible, be prevented; and a recon
ciliation happily effected, before matters were carried
to extremity. The Author, flattered by his friends,
and perhaps a little also by vanity, presumed to hope,
that the publication of his tour through the Middle
Settlements in North America might, in some de
gree, conduce to this desirable end : and as the meas-
[15]

Preface
ures to be adopted by Government were at that time
under the deliberation of Parliament, it was thought
expedient to submit it to the Public, before any reso
lutions were formed that might eventually be de
cisive of the fate of the British Empire. There was
not time, therefore, to publish the Work in so full
and correct a manner, as the materials in the Author's
possession would otherwise have enabled him to do.
He confined himself to general, and what he judged
leading, circumstances; and postponed the insertion
of others to more favourable and tranquil times.
The two former Editions, however, being now en
tirely out of print, he deems it expedient to publish
a third Edition, revised, corrected, and greatly en
larged by the insertion of new matter; particularly
by several statistical tables referring to the Com
merce of America; and some authentic Memoirs of
Thomas late Lord Fairfax, and of the several
branches of that noble house now domiciliated in
Virginia, both of which have been derived from the
best and most unquestionable authority. — The
Work for these reasons, and from its being almost
the only account of the Middle Settlements, during
the period of their happiest and most flourishing
state, may possibly, notwithstanding" the separation
that has since taken place, be still interesting, at
least to individuals : and the Author offers the present
Edition to the Public, with the same assurance as he
did the former ones; viz. that he believes the con-
[16]

Preface
tents to be strictly and literally true. If, however,
some slight errors may accidentally and undesignedly
have been committed, and any one will have the
goodness to point them out, the Author will think
himself highly obliged by the information, and will
avail himself of the first opportunity to acknowledge
and correct them.
The astonishing events that have taken place since
the publication of the two former Editions, will
probably expose the Author's opinion concerning
the termination and final issue of the American con
test to animadversion : but in vindication of himself,
he must be permitted to observe, —
That it was not within the sphere of calculation
to suppose,
ist. That the British ministry would persist in
requiring unconditional submission from the colonies,
till it was too late to recede; and the opportunity was
lost, and for ever gone by :
2dly. That when coercive measures had been re
solved upon, they would have been enforced in so
ruinous and so ineffectual a manner:
3dly. That, during the war, any member in
opposition would have declared publicly, that he
corresponded with, and wished success to, the
Americans, then in arms against the king:
Still less was it within the sphere of calculation to
suppose, That France, though it might be expected that
[*7]

Preface
she would so far interfere in the contest as to en
deavour to distress and embarrass this country,
would send troops to America, to the irreparable
ruin of her own finances, in order to make the Ameri
cans free and independent states:
Least of all was it within the sphere of calculation
to suppose,
That Spain would join in a plan inevitably lead
ing, though by slow and imperceptible steps, to the
final loss of all her rich possessions in South America.
There were indeed enlightened minds both in
France and in Spain, who foresaw what has since
happened, and who deprecated any interference in the
dispute, and recommended the observance of a strict
neutrality: And the unfortunate Lewis the sixteenth
himself is said to have shewn the greatest repug
nance to the treaty with the Americans, and to have
declared in the bitterness of sorrow, when he signed
it, that he had signed the warrant for his own ruin
and destruction.
In August, 1792, the Author was at Cologne; and
there accidentally falling in with the Duke of Bour
bon, and several French noblemen of his suite, the
conversation naturally turned upon the situation and
affairs of France; and the author expressing his sur
prise at the impolicy of the French ministry in en
gaging so deeply in the American war, and deducing
from thence the present miseries of France, one of
the courtiers with great emotion exclaimed, — "Ah,
[18]

Preface
"monsieur, c'est bien vrai; nous avons mal calcule!"
— But the die is cast, and it is too late to moralize.
The reader will doubtless be surprised, when the
Author declares, that he has not altered his senti
ments since the year 1775, in regard to the American
war and its consequences. He still thinks, that the
separation might, in the first instance, have been
prevented: that coercive measures, when resolved
upon, might have been enforced, comparatively
speaking, without bloodshed; and with great prob
ability of success:! that the present union of the
American States will not be permanent or last for
any considerable length of time: that that extensive
country must necessarily be divided into separate
states and kingdoms: and that America will never,
at least for many ages, become formidable to Europe;
or acquire, what has been so frequently predicted,
universal empire. The Author thinks he could as
sign plausible reasons at least for these various
opinions; but it is better that they should be con
signed to oblivion. The wise Disposer of events
has decreed, that America shall be independent of
Great Britain; that she is so, may ultimately perhaps
be advantageous to both countries; at least it will be
owing to excess of folly if it be highly disadvan
tageous to either. Let us supplicate Heaven to
unite them in permanent friendship and affection;
and to preserve inviolate that alliance, that harmony
and connection, which religion, moral habits, lan-
[19]

Preface
guage, interest, origin, and innumerable other con
siderations, can never cease to point out and recom
mend to them.

[ao]

INTRODUCTION.
A FEW days before I embarked for America,
being in a cofFee-house with some friends,
and discoursing of things relative to that
country, an elderly gentleman advancing towards
the box where we were sitting, addressed himself to
me in the following manner: "Sir," said he, "you
"are young, and just entering into the world; I am
"old, and upon the point of leaving it: allow me
"therefore to give you one piece of advice, which is
"the result of experience; and which may possibly,
"some time or other, be of use to you. You are
"going to a country where every thing will appear
"new and wonderful to you; but it will appear so
"only for a while; for the novelty of it will daily wear
"off; and in time it will grow quite familiar to you.
"Let me, therefore, recommend to you to note in
"your pocket-book every circumstance that may
"make an impression upon you; for be assured, sir,
"though it may afterward appear familiar and un
interesting to yourself, it will not appear so to your
[21]

Introduction
"friends, who have never visited that country, for
"they will be entertained by it."
The following observations were the result of this
advice; they were written upon the several spots to
which they refer; and were intended for no other
purpose, than that of serving as memorandums.
They appeared, by the time I returned to Europe,
according to the gentleman's prediction, so very
familiar to me, that I scarcely thought them deserv
ing of the perusal of my friends. Some of these,
however, were so obliging as to bestow upon them
that trouble; and it is by their advice, and the con
sideration of the present critical situation of affairs,
that I now submit them to the judgment of the pub
lic. — Whatever may be their merit, which I fear is
but small, I can assure the reader of one thing, I be
lieve they are generally true. They are the fruit of
the most impartial inquiries, and best intelligence,
that I was able to procure in the different colonies
which I visited. If I have been led into any error,
or have misrepresented any thing, it has been unde
signedly: a spirit of party is universally prevalent
in America, and it is not always an easy matter to
arrive at the knowledge of truth; but I believe, in
general, I have been pretty successful. I conversed
indiscriminately with persons of all parties; and en
deavoured, by allowing for prejudices and collating
their different accounts, to get at the true one. If I
have any doubt myself about any particular part of
[22]

Introduction
the following observations (and it is one in which I
wish I may be found to have been misinformed), it
is that which relates to the character of the Rhode
Islanders. I was exceedingly ill at that place, and
had not the same opportunity of procuring informa
tion as elsewhere. I conversed with but few gentle
men, and they were principally of one party; but
they were gentlemen of such universal good character,
that I could not but rely in some measure on the
accounts with which they favoured me. Some
allowance, however, I did make for prejudice; and
I am desirous that the reader should make a still
larger one; indeed, I should be happy to stand cor
rected in regard to what I have said of that people,
as no one can have less pleasure in speaking un
favourably of mankind than myself.
I have studiously avoided all technical or scientific
terms; such to the informed reader are unnecessary,
to the uninformed one they are unintelligible and
perplexing: in relations of this kind they have always
an appearance of affectation and pedantry.
For the most valuable part of the following collec
tion, I mean the Diary* of the Weather, I am en
tirely indebted to my esteemed friend, Francis Fau
quier, esq., son of the late worthy lieutenant-governor
of Virginia, who very obligingly transmitted it to me
from Williamsburg, while I resided, as chaplain to
* See Appendix, No. I. [23]

Introduction
the British factory, at Leghorn; and has allowed
me to make the use of it which I have here done.
The present unhappy differences subsisting
amongst us, with regard to America, will, I am sen
sible, expose the publication of this account to much
censure and criticism; but I can truly aver, that I
have been led to it by no party motive whatsoever.
My first attachment, as it is natural, is to my native
country;' my next is to America; and such is my
affection for both, that I hope nothing will ever hap
pen to dissolve that union, which is necessary to their
common happiness. Let every Englishman and
American, but for a moment or two, substitute them
selves in each other's place, and, I think, a mode of
reconciliation will soon take effect. — Every Ameri
can will then perceive the reasonableness of acknowl
edging the supremacy of the British legislature; and
every Englishman, perhaps, the hardship of being
taxed where there is no representation, or assent.
There is scarcely any such thing, I believe, as a
perfect government; and solecisms are to be found
in all. The present disputes are seemingly the re
sult of one. — Nothing can be more undeniable than
the supremacy of Parliament over the most distant
branches of the British Empire: for although the king
being esteemed, in the eye of the law, the original
proprietor of all the lands in the kingdom; all lands,
upon defect of heirs to succeed to an inheritance,
escheat to the king; and all new discovered lands vest
[24]

Introduction
in him: yet in neither case can he exempt them from
the jurisdiction of the legislature of the kingdom.
He may grant them, under leases or charters, to
individuals or companies, with liberty of making
rules and regulations for the internal government
and improvement of them; but such regulations must
ever be consistent with the laws of the kingdom, and
subject to their control.
On the other hand, I am extremely dubious,
whether it be consistent with the general principles
of liberty (with those of the British constitution I
think it is not) to tax where there is no representation:
the arguments hitherto adduced from Manchester
and Birmingham, and other great towns, not having
representatives, are foreign to the subject; at least
they are by no means equal to it; — for every in
habitant, possessed of forty shillings freehold, has
a vote in the election of members for the county: but
it is not the persons, but the property of men that is
taxed, and there is not a foot of property in this king
dom that is not represented.
It appears then, that certain principles exist in
the British constitution, which militate with each
other; the reason of their doing so is evident; it was
never supposed that they would extend beyond the
limits of Great Britain, or affect so distant a country
as America. It is much to be wished, therefore, that
some expedient could be thought of to reconcile them.
The conduct of the several administrations that
[25]

Introduction
have had the direction of the affairs of this kingdom,
has been reciprocally arraigned; but, I think, with
out reason, for, all things considered, an impartial
and dispassionate mind will find many excuses to
allege in justification of each. — The fewest, I am
afraid, are to be pleaded in favour of the Americans;
for they settled in America under charters which
expressly reserved to the British Parliament the
authority, whether consistent or not consistent, now
asserted. Although, therefore, they had a right to
make humble representations to his majesty in Par
liament, and to shew the impropriety and inconven
ience of enforcing such principles, yet they had
certainly no right^to oppose them..
Expedients may still be found, it is to be hoped
however, to conciliate the present unhappy differ
ences, and restore harmony again between Great
Britain and her colonies, but whatever measures
may be adopted by parliament, it is the duty and
interestjaf America, to submit,, — But it is impertinent
to enter any furtherTntoTHe discussion of a subject
which is at this time under the deliberation of the
supreme council of the nation. I will, therefore,
conclude with a sincere prayer, that whatever meas
ures may be adopted, they may be different in their
issue from what the fears of men generally lead them
to preconceive; and that, if they be coercive ones,
they may be enforced, which, I am persuaded, is
practicable, without the effusion of blood : if lenient
[26]

Introduction
ones, which are preferable, and which I think equally
practicable, conceded without any loss or diminution
of the dignity or interest of this kingdom.
Greenwich,
Jan. 29th, 1775.

[27]

TRAVELS THROUGH THE
MIDDLE SETTLEMENTS IN
NORTH AMERICA.
ON Friday the 27th of April, 1759, 1 embarked,
in company with several jSTorth American
gentlemen, on board the Dispatch, Captain
Necks, for Virginia; and the next day we set sail
from Spithead, under convoy of his majesty's ship
the Lynn, Captain Sterling, commander, with thirty-
three sail of trading vessels. We came to an anchor
in the evening in Yarmouth Road, and the next
day sailed with a fresh easterly wind through the
Needles. April 30. We passed by the Lizard, and in the
evening discovered a sail, which proved to be an
English sloop laden with corn. She had been taken
by a French privateer, and was steering for France:
there were three Frenchmen and one Englishman
on board. The commodore sent some hands to her,
with orders to carry her to Penzance.
May 1. Thick, hazy weather with a fair wind.
[29]

Travels Through
A large ship passed through the fleet about four
o'clock in the afternoon: and in the evening another
vessel bore down upon the sternmost ships, and
spoke with them.
May 2. Fair, pleasant weather. The next day
we found by our reckoning that we had made a hun
dred leagues from the Land's End.
May 4. Strong, violent gales at north-and-by-
west. In the evening the Molly, Captain Chew, had
her maintop-mast carried away, and hoisted a signal
of distress.
May 5. From this time to the 14th, nothing re
markable happened: the wind was seldom fair, but
the weather being moderate, we made frequent visits,
and passed our time very agreeably.
May 14. Captain Necks fell ill of a fever, and
continued indisposed several days : he began to mend
about the 17th.
May 19. In the afternoon, a sudden and violent
squall from the north-west obliged us to lie-to under
our reefed main-sail: it continued to increase, and
blew a storm for about thirty-six hours, when it be
gan to moderate.
May 21. We made sail in the afternoon, with four
ships in company; and the next day in the evening
were joined by eighteen more. From that time to the
28th, nothing remarkable happened: we had gen
erally pleasant weather, but adverse winds. We
frequently visited; and were much entertained with
[3°]

North America
seeing grampuses, turtles, bonetas, porpoises, fly
ing and other fish, common in the Atlantic*
May 28. We discovered a large sail; she directed
her course towards the east. We supposed her to
be an English man of war going express. She
carried three top-gallant sails.
May 31. We spoke with a sloop bound from
Antigua to London. She acquainted the commo
dore with the agreeable news of his majesty's forces
at Guadaloupe having reduced that whole island
under subjection to the British government. The
wind still continued unfavourable.
June 5. We spoke with a snow from Carolina
which informed the commodore that a French
frigate was cruising off the capes of Virginia. From
that time to the nth, we had nothing remarkable.
The wind was generally from west to north-west,
and there were frequent squalls with lightning. We
saw several bonetas, grampuses, albicores, and fish
of different kinds.
June n. The water appeared discoloured; and
we concluded that we were upon the Banks of New
foundland: we cast the lead, but found no ground.
The weather was thick and hazy. Nothing re
markable happened from this time to the 3d of July:
we had pleasant weather, though now and then
squalls with lightning. We fell in with several cur
rents and had variable winds.
* See Appendix, No. 1. [31]

Travels Through North America
July 3. We had fine weather, with a gentle
breeze at N. W. We were now, according to the
commodore's reckoning (which we afterward found
to be true) about sixty leagues from land. The air
was richly scented with the fragrance of the pine-
trees. July 4. We saw a great many sloops, from
whence we imagined that we were near the coast.
The wind was at east-by-north.
July 5. About six in the morning we caught
some green fish: upon this we sounded, and found
eighteen fathom water. At ten we discovered land,
which proved to be Cape Charles; and about three
hours afterward sailed through the capes into Chesa
peake Bay. The commodore took his leave to go
upon a cruise; and at eight in the evening we came
to an anchor in York river, after a tedious and dis
agreeable voyage of almost ten weeks.,
The next morning, having hired a chaise at York,
a small inconsiderable town, I went to Williamsburg,
about twelve miles distant. The road is exceed
ingly pleasant, through some of the finest tobacco
plantations* in North America, with a beautiful
view of the river and woods of great extent.
* The tobacco growing upon York river, is esteemed superior to
any other in North America; particularly that which is raised upon
the plantations belonging to Colonel Edward Diggs, which is said
to have a flavour excelling all others. Of the growth of one plan
tation, distinguished from the rest, the tobacco is in such high esti
mation, that Colonel Diggs puts upon every hogshead in which it
[32J

Williamsburg, Virginia
Williamsburg is the capital of Virginia: it is situ
ated between two creeks, one falling into James, the
other into York river; and is built nearly due east
and west.* The distance of each landing-place is
something more than a mile from the town; which,
with the disadvantage of not being able to bring up
large vessels, is the reason of its not having increased
so fast as might have been expected. It consists of
about two hundred houses, does not contain more
than onejhousand souls, whites and negroes; and is
far from being a place of any consequence. It is
is packed, the initials of his name; and it is from thence called the
E. D. tobacco, and sells for a proportionably higher price. Some
time ago, Colonel Diggs having a tract of land, seemingly of the
same quality, and under the same exposure and aspect as the plan
tation producing the E. D. tobacco, from which it was separated
only by a small rill of water, he directed it to be planted; and as
the produce was apparently similar in quality, colour, flavour, and
every other particular, he thought himself warranted to delineate
E. D. upon the hogsheads in which it was packed. Accordingly,
it was sent to market with this recommendatory mark or token.
But some time after, he received a letter from his factor or mer
chant in London, informing him that his inspector or agent had
been guilty of some great oversight or error, as the tobacco con
tained in certain casks, which he specified, though marked with
E. D., was of a different and very inferior quality to that com
modity; and that if the same fault should be again committed, it
would ruin the reputation and sale of the E. D. tobacco. It is to
be observed, that the soil or mould had been carefully analysed and
examined previous to its being planted; and that not the smallest
difference could be perceived between that of the old and new
plantation. The experiment, it will easily be believed, was not re
peated. * See Note I. [33]

Travels Through North America
regularly laid out in parallel streets, intersected by
others at right angles; has a handsome square in
the center, through which runs the principal street,
one of the most spacious in North America, three
, quarters of a mile in length, and above a hundred
i feet wide. At the opposite ends of this street are
two public buildings, the college and the capitqj:
and although the houses are of wood, covered with
shingles,* and but indifferently built, the whole
makes a handsome appearance. There are few
public edifices that deserve to be taken notice of;
those, which I have mentioned, are the principal;
and they are far from being magnificent. The
governor's palace is tolerably good, one of the best
upon the continent; but the church, the prison,
and the other buildings, are all of them extremely
indifferent. The streets are rjot_payed, and are con
sequently very dusty, the soil hereabout consisting
chiefly of sand : however, the situation of Williams
burg has one advantage which few or no places in
these lower parts have, that of being free from mos
quitoes, j Upon the whole, it is an agreeable resi
dence; there are ten or twelve gentlemen's families
constantly residing in it, besides merchants and
tradesmen: and at the times of the assemblies, and
general courts, it is crowded with the gentry of the
country: on those occasions there are balls and other
* These are formed in the shape of tiles, and are generally made
of white cedar or of cypress. [34]

Virginia
amusements; but as soon as the business is finished,
they return to their plantations; and the town is in a
manner deserted.*
The situation of Virginia (according to Evans's
map) is between the 36th and 40th degree of north
lat. and about 76 degrees west long, from London.f
It is bounded on the north by the river Potomac,
on the east by the Atlantic Ocean, by Carolina on
the south, and, to include only what is inhabited,
by the great Alleghany on the west. %
The climate is extremely fine, though subject to
violent heats in the summer: Fahrenheit's thermome
ter being generally for three months from 85 to 95
degrees high. The other seasons, however, make
ample amends for this inconvenience: for the
autumns and springs are delightful; and the winters
are so mild and serene (though there are now and
then excessively cold days) as scarcely to require a
fire. The only complaint that a person can reason
ably make, is, of the very sudden changes to which
the weather is liable; for this being entirely regulated
* Since the revolution, the seat of government has been removed
to Richmond, a town situated just below the falls of James river.
f Mr. Ebeling, of Hamburg, in a note to the German transla
tion of this work, says, "Virginia is situated between 37 and 40
"degrees of north latitude, and extends from 77 to 81 degrees west
"longitude from London;" but I believe he is mistaken, for the
latest and best maps generally agree with Mr. Evans in regard
to the situation he has given to this country; at least, they approxi
mate nearer to the account here given than to that of Mr. Ebeling.
I See Note II. [35]

Travels Through North America
by the winds, is exceedingly variable. Southerly
winds are productive of heat, northerly of cold, and
easterly of rain; whence it is no uncommon thing
for the thermometer to fall many degrees in a very
few hours; and, after a warm day to have such
severe cold as to freeze over a river a mile broad in
one night's time.* In summer there are frequent
and violent gusts, with thunder and lightning; but
as the country is very thinly inhabited, and most of
the gentry have electrical rods to their houses, they
are not attended with many fatal accidents. Now
and then, indeed, some of the negroes lose their
lives; and it is not uncommon in the woods to see
trees torn and riven to pieces by their fury and vio
lence. A remarkable circumstance happened some
years ago at York, which is well attested: a person
standing at his door during a thunder gust, was un
fortunately killed; there was an intermediate tree
at some distance, which was struck at the same time;
and when they came to examine the body they found
the tree delineated upon it in miniature. Part of
the body was livid, but that which was covered by
the tree was of its natural colour."}"
I believe no country has more certainly proved
* On the 19th of December, 1759, being upon a visit to .Colonel
Washington, at Mount_Vernon, upon the river Potomac, where
the river is two miles broad, I was greatly surprised to find it en
tirely frozen over in the space of one night, when the preceding day
had been mild and temperate.
1 1 have related this circumstance upon the authority of the
[36]

Virg

inia
the efficacy of electrical rods, than this: before the
discovery of them, these gusts were frequently pro
ductive of melancholy consequences; but now it is
rare to hear of such instances. It is observable that
no house was ever struck, where they were fixed:
and although it has frequently happened that the
rods themselves have been melted, or broken to
pieces, and the houses scorched or discoloured along
the sides of them, which manifested that they had
received the stroke, but that the quantity of light
ning was too great to be carried off by the conductor,
yet never has any misfortune happened; such a
direction having been given to the lightning as to
prevent any danger or ill consequence. These cir
cumstances, one would imagine, should induce every
person to get over those prejudices which many have
entertained; and to consider the neglect, rather
than the use, of them as criminal, since they seem
to be means put into our hands by Providence for
our safety and protection.
The soil of Virginia is,in general good. There
are barrens where the lands produce nothing but
pine trees; but taking the whole tract together, it is
certainly fertile. The low grounds upon the rivers
and creeks are exceedingly rich, being loam inter
mingled with sand: and the higher you go up into
Honourable John Blair, President of the Council of Virginia, who
mentioned it as a well-known fact: but it appears so improbable
and unphilosophical, that I do not pledge myself for the truth of it.
[37]

Travels Through North America
the country, towards the mountains, the value of the
land increases; for it grows more strong, and con
sists of a deeper clay.
Virginia, in its natural state, produces great
quantities of fruits and medicinal plants, with trees
and flowers of infinitely various kinds. Tobacco
and Indian corn are the original produce of the
country; likewise the pigeon-berry, and rattle-snake-
root so esteemed in all ulcerous and pleuritical com
plaints: grapes, strawberries, hickory nuts, mul
berries, chestnuts, and several other fruits, grow
wild and spontaneously.
Besides trees and flowers of an ordinary nature,
the woods produce myrtles, cedars, cypresses, sugar-
trees, firs of different sorts, and no less than seven
or eight kinds of oak; they are likewise adorned and
beautified with red-flowering maples, sassafras-trees,
dog-woods, acacias, red-buds, scarlet-flowering chest
nuts, fringe-trees, flowering poplars, umbrellas, mag
nolias, yellow jasamines, chamcedaphnes, pacoons,
atamusco-lilies, May-apples, and innumerable other
sorts, so that one may reasonably assert that no coun
try ever appeared with greater elegance or beauty.*
Not to notice too the almost numberless creeks
and rivulets which every where abound, it is watered
by four large rivers of such safe navigation, and such
noble and majestic appearance, as cannot be ex
ceeded, perhaps, in the whole known world.
* See Appendix, No. I. [38]

Virginia

j[ames river, which was formerly called Pow
hatan, from its having been the seat of that emperor,
is seven miles broad at the mouth, navigable to the
falls (above 150 miles) for vessels of large burden,
and thence to the mountains for small craft and
canoes. The falls are in length about six or seven miles;
they consist of innumerable breaks of water, owing
to the obstruction of the current by an infinite num
ber of rocks, which are scattered over the bed of the
1 river; and form a most picturesque and beautiful
cascade. The Honourable Colonel Byrd,* has a small place
called Belvedere, upon a hill at the lower end of
these falls, as romantic and elegant as any thing I
have ever seen. It is situated very high, and com
mands a fine prospect of the river, which is half a
mile broad, forming cataracts in the manner above
described; there are several little islands scattered
carelessly about, very rocky, and covered with trees;
and two or three villages")" in view at a small dis
tance. Over all these you discover a prodigious
extent of wilderness, and the river winding majesti
cally along through the midst of it.
York river, for about forty miles, to a place called
West Point, is confined in one channel about two
miles, broad : it flows in a very direct course, making
* See Note III.
t Amongst the rest, Richmond, the present seat of government.
[39]

Travels Through North America
but one angle, and that an inconsiderable one, dur
ing the whole way. At West Point it forks, and
divides itself into two branches; the southward called
Pamunky; the northward Mattapony: each of these
branches, including the windings and meanders of
the river, is navigable seventy or eighty miles, and a
considerable way of this space for large ships.
The Rappahannock is navigable to the falls, which
are a mile above Fredericksburg, and about no from
vthe bay. Vessels of large burden may come up to
this place; and small craft and canoes may be carried
up much higher.
The Potomac is one of the finest rivers in North
America: it is* ten miles broad at the mouth, navi
gable above 200 miles, jto Alexandria, for men of
war; and, allowing for a few carrying places, for
canoes above 200 farther, to the very branches of
the Ohio. Colonel Bouquet, f a Swiss gentleman
in the Royal Americans, came down this autumn
from Fort Cumberland \ to Shenandoah with very little
* The Potomac, according to Mr. Jefferson, is only 7\ miles
broad at its mouth, and perhaps his"atcotfht may be founded upon
better authority than my own. I had no opportunity of ascer
taining the fact, and the statement which I have made rests entirely
upon the credibility of those Virginian gentlemen, who favoured
me with the information, and who, I am persuaded, did not inten
tionally mislead me; though it is possible they might be mistaken.
t See Note IV.
% The distance from Fort Cumberland to Shenandoah is above
100 miles; from Shenandoah to the great falls about 60; and from
the great falls to Alexandria about 17 or 18.
[40]

Virginia
difficulty; whence to the great falls, I have been told,
a navigation might easily be effected: so that this
river seems to promise to be of as great consequence
as any in North America.
In all these rivers the tide flows as far as the falls,
and at Alexandria it rises between two and three
feet. They discharge themselves into Chesapeake
Bay, one of the finest in the world, which runs a great
way up the country into Maryland; is from ten to
twenty miles broad; navigable near a hundred
leagues for vessels of almost any burden; and re
ceives into its bosom at least twenty great rivers.
These waters are stored with incredible quantities
of fish, such as sheeps-heads, rock-fish, drums, white
perch, herrings, oysters, crabs, and several other
sorts. Sturgeon and shad are in such prodigious
numbers, that one day, within the space of two miles
only, some gentlemen in canoes, caught above 600
of the former with hooks, which they let down to the
bottom, and drew up at a venture when they per
ceived them to rub against a fish; and of the latter
above 5,000 have been caught at one single haul of
the seine.
In the mountains there are very rich veins of ore;
some mines having been already opened which turn
to great account; particularly Spotswood's iron
mines* upon the Rappahannock, out of which they
smelt annually above six hundred ton: and one of
* See Note V. [41]

Travels Through North America
copper upon the Roanoke, belonging to Colonel
Chiswell. This last mentioned gentleman is also
going to try for lead upon some hunting-grounds
belonging to the Indians, towards New River, and
the Green Briar; where, it is said, there is fine ore,
and in great plenty, lying above ground. Some
coal mines have also been opened upon James
river near the falls, which are likely to answer very
well. The forests abound with plenty of game of various
kinds; hares, turkeys, pheasants, woodcocks, and
partridges are in the greatest abundance. In the
marshes are found soruses, a particular species of
bird, more exquisitely delicious than the ortolan;
snipes also, < and ducks of various kinds. The
American shell-drake and blue-wing exceed all of
the duck kind whatsoever; and these are in prodi
gious numbers. In the woods there are variety of
birds remarkable both for singing and for beauty;
of which are the mocking-bird, the red-bird or night
ingale, the blue-bird, the yellow-bird, the humming
bird*, the Baltimore bird, the summer-duck, the
turtle, and several other sorts.
Insects and reptiles are almost innumerable. The
variety of butterflies is not greater than is that of the
* The humming-bird is the smallest and most beautiful of all
the feathered race: its colours are green, crimson, and gold; it lives
chiefly by suction upon the sweets and essences of flowers; and
nothing can be more curious than to observe numbers of them in
gardens, where there are honey-suckles or trumpet-flowers, flying
[42]

Virginia
rich and vivid colours with which each particular
species is distinguished and beautified; and such is
the number and appearance of the fire-flies, that on
a summer's evening the whole air seems to glow
and to be enlightened by them. Several snakes of
this country are harmless and beautiful; such as the
black snake, the wampum-snake, the bead-snake,
the garter-snake, and some others: but the rattle
snake and vipers are exceedingly venomous and
deadly. There are two curious species of frogs here :
one is called the bull-frog, which is prodigiously
large, and makes so loud a noise, that it may be heard
at a great distance; the other is a small green frog,
which sits upon the boughs of trees, and is found in
almost every garden.
Of quadrupeds there are various kinds; squirrels
of four or five different species*, opossums, raccoons,
foxes, beavers, and deer: and in the deserts and un
inhabited parts, wolves, bears, panthers, elks or
and sucking out the sweetest juices. The motion of their wings
is incredibly swift and produces a humming noise, not unlike that
of a large humble bee. They are frequently kept in cages, but
seldom live longer than two months. The food which is given
them, is either honey or sugar, mixed with water. Repeated at
tempts have been made to send them alive to England, but always
without success.
* Of the several species of squirrels, the ground and flying
squirrels are much the smallest and most beautiful. The former
are of a dusky orange hue, streaked with black; the latter grey or
ash-coloured, and elegantly formed. These have a spreading or
fan-tail, and two membranes adhering to their sides; which, when
they spring or leap from a tree, they expand, and are thereby en-
[43]

Travels Through North America
moose deer, buffaloes, mountain-cats, and various
other sorts. Such are in general the natural pro
ductions of this country.*
Viewed and considered as a settlement, Virginia
is far from being arrived at that perfection of which
it is capable. .Not a tenth ^£jJb^Jknd_Js_yg£_£ulti-
yated: and that which is cultivated, js farJrom_being
so in the most advantageous ; mannen j It produces,
however, considerable quantities of grainjind .cattle,
and fruit of many kinds. The Virginian pork is
said to be superior in flavour to any in the world;
' but the sheep and horned cattle being small and
lean, the meat of them is inferior to that of Great
Britain, or indeed, of most parts of Europe. The
horses are fleet and beautiful; and the gentlemen of
Virginia, who are exceedingly fond of horse-racing,
have spared no expence or trouble to improve the
breed of them by importing great numbers from
England. The fruits introduced here from Europe succeed
extremely well; particularly peaches, which have a
very fine flavour, and grow in such plenty as to serve
to feed the hogs in the autumn of the year. Their
abled to fly through a considerable space. The former are of a
very wild nature; but these may be easily, and are frequently
tamed. There is a species of polecat in this part of America,
which is commonly called a skunk. This animal, when pursued,
or assailed by its enemy, ejects its urine; which emits such a fetid
and insupportable stench, as almost to stifle and suffocate what
ever is within the reach of it.
* See Appendix, No. I. [44]

Virginia
blossoms in the spring make a beautiful appearance
throughout the country.
Virginia is divided into fifty-two counties, and
seventy-seven parishes, and by act of assembly there
ought to be forty-four towns*; but one half of these
have not more than five houses; and the other half
are little better than inconsiderable villages. This
is owing to the cheapness of land,' and the commo-
diousness of navigation \ for every person may with
ease procure a small plantation, can ship his tobacco
at his own door, and live \ independent] When the
colony shall come to be more thickly seated, and
land grow dear, people will be obliged to follow
trades and manufactures, which will necessarily
make towns and large cities; but this seems remote,
and not likely to happen for some centuries.
The inhabitants are supposed to be in number
between two and three hundred thousand. There
are a hundred and five thousand titheables, under
which denomination are included all white males
from sixteen to sixty; and all negroes whatsoever
within the same age. The former are obliged to
serve in the militia, and amount to fortyjhousanjL
The trade of this colony is large and ^extensive.
Tobacco is the principal article of it. Of this they
^xport annually between fifty and sixty thousand
hogsheads, each hogshead weighing eight hundred
or a thousand weight; some years they export much
* These numbers have been since greatly increased.
[45]

Travels Through North America
more.* They ship also for the Madeiras, the
Straits, and the West Indies, several articles, such
as grain, porkjlumber, and cider: to Great Britain,
/bamron^ indigo, and a small quantity of ginseng,
though of an inferior quality; and they clear out one
year with another about tton °f shipping.
Their manufactures are very jnconsiderable. They
make a kind of cotton cloth, with which they clothe
themselves in common, and call after the name of
their country; and some inconsiderable quantities
of linen, hose, and other trifling articles : but nothing
to deserve attention.}
The government is a _royal one: the legislature
consisting of a governor appointed by the king; a
council of twelve persons, under the sajmo nomina
tion; and a "house of burgesses, or representatives,
of a hundred and eight or ten members, electejLby
the people; two for each county, and one for each
of the following places, viz. the College of William
ajid_ Mary, Jamestown, Norfolkborough, and Wil
liamsburg. Each branch has a negative. All laws,
in order to be permanent, must have the king's ap
probation; nor may any be enacted, which are re
pugnant to the laws of Great Britain.
The courts of judicature are either county, or
general courts. The county courts are held monthly
* In the year 1758, it is said that seventy thousand hogsheads
were exported.
f See Appendix, No. 2. [46]

Virginia
in each county, at a place assigned for that purpose,
by the justices thereof; four of them making a
quorum. They are appointed by the governor, and
take cognizance of all causes,' at common law, or in
chancery, within their respective counties, except
criminal ones, punishable with loss of life, or mem
ber. \ This power they are not permitted to exercise
except over negroes and slaves, and then not without
a special commission from the governor for each par
ticular purpose.* The general court is held twice
a year at Williamsburg. It consists of the governor
and council, any five of which make a court. They
hear and determine all causes whatsoever, eccle
siastical or civil, and sit four and twenty days: the
first five of these are for hearing and determining
suits in chancery, appeals from the decrees of the
county or inferior courts in chancery; and writs of
supersedeas to such decrees. The other days are
for trying suits or prosecutions in behalf of the king;
and all other matters depending in the said court;
appeals are allowed to the king in council, in cases
* How necessary it may be that they should have such a power,
even in this case, I will not pretend to say; but the law which trans
fers it to them seems so inconsistent with the natural rights of man
kind, that I cannot but in pity to humanity recite it.
"Every slave committing any offence, by law punishable by
"death, or loss of member, shall be committed to the county gaol,
"and the sheriff of the county shall forthwith certify such com-
"mitment, with the cause thereof, to the governor, or commander
"in chief, who may issue a commission of oyer and terminer to
"such persons as he shall think fit, which persons, forthwith after
"the receipt of such commission, shall cause the offender to be
[47]

Travels Through North America
of 500 1. sterling value. The governor has a power
of pardoning criminals in all cases, except of treason
or murder: and then he can only reprieve till he
knows the king's pleasure.
The established religion is that of the Church_of
England; and there are very fevXlJissenters of any
denomination in this province.*^ There are at present
between sixty and seventy clergymen; men in general
of sober and exemplary lives. They have each a
glebe of two or three hundred acres, of land, a house,
and a salary established by law of 16,000 weight of
tobacco, with an allowance of 1,700 more for shrink
age. This is delivered to them in hogsheads ready
packed for exportation, at the most convenient ware
house. The presentation of livings is in the hands
of the vestry, which is a standing body of twelve
members invested with the sole power of raising
levies, settling the repairs of the church, and regu
lating other parochial business. They were origi
nally elected by the people of the several parishes;
but now fill up vacancies themselves. If the vestry
does not present to a living in less than twelve months,
"publicly arraigned and tried at the court-house of the said county,
"and take for evidence the confession of the offender, the oath of
"one or more credible witnesses, or such testimony of negroes,
"mulattoes or Indians, bond or free, with pregnant circumstances
"as to them shall seem convincing, without the solemnity of a jury,
"and the offender being found guilty, shall pass such judgment
" upon him or her as the law directs for the like crimes, and on
" such judgment award execution."
— Mercer's Abridgment of the Virginian Laws, p. 342.
[48]

Virginia
it lapses to the governor. The diocesan is the bishop
of London; who has a power of appointing a com
missary to preside over, and convene the clergy on
particular occasions; and to censure, or even suspend
them, in cases of neglect or immorality. His salary
is ioo 1. sterling per annum; and he is generally of
the council, which is of equal emolument to him.*
An unhappy disagreement has lately arisen be
tween the clergy and the laity, which, it is to be
feared, may be of serious consequence. The cause
of it was this: Tobacco being extremely scarce
from a general failure of the crop, the assembly
passed an act to oblige the clergy and all public
officers to receive their stipends in money instead
of tobacco. This the clergy remonstrated against,
alleging the hardship of being obliged to take a
small price for their tobacco, when it bore an ex
travagant one; seeing they never had any kind of
compensation allowed when it was so plentiful as
to be almost a drug. They sent over an agent to
England, and the Jaw was repealed. This greatly
exasperated the people; and such is their mutual
animosity at this time, that, I fear, it will not easily
subside, or be forgotten."}"
With regard to the law in question, it was certainly
* The commissary is commonly president of the college, and has
the parish of Williamsburg, or some other lucrative parish, which
render him about 350 1. a year: so that his annual income is be
tween 5 and 600 1.
f See Note VI. [49]

Travels Through North America
a very hard one; and I doubt whether, upon prin
ciples of free government, it can be justified; or
whether the assembly can legally interpose any
farther, than, in cases of necessity, to oblige the
clergy to receive their salaries in money instead of
tobacco, at the current price of tobacco. They may,
I am persuaded, in cases of exigency, always make,
and might then have made, such a law, without any
considerable detriment to the colony: for, supposing
the price of tobacco to be, what it was at that time,
about fifty shillings currency per hundred, what
would the whole sum be, were the clergy to be paid
ad valorem ? Not 20,200 1. sterling. There are in
Virginia, as I observed before, about sixty-five
clergymen; each of these is allowed 16,000 weight
of tobacco; which, at the rate of fifty shillings cur
rency per hundred, amounts to 400 1.; 400 1. mul
tiplied by 65, is equal to 26,000; which, allowing 40
per cent, discount, the difference of exchange, is
about 18,571 1. sterling. Now what is this sum to
such a colony as Virginia ? But to this it will be
said, perhaps, why should the clergy be gainers in a
time of public distress, when every one else is a suf
ferer ? The clergy will doubtless reply, and why
should the clergy be the only sufferers in plentiful
seasons, when all but themselves are gainers ?
However, as on the one hand I disapprove of the
proceedings of the assembly in this affair; so, on the
other, I cannot approve of the steps which were taken
[50]

Virginia
by the clergy: that violence of temper; that disre
spectful behaviour towards the governor; that un
worthy treatment of their commissary; and, to men
tion nothing else, that confusion of proceeding in
the convention, of which some, though not the ma
jority, as has been invidiously represented, were
guilty; these things were surely unbecoming the
sacred character they are invested with; and the
moderation of those persons, who ought in all things
to imitate the conduct of their divine Master. If,
instead of flying out in invectives against the legis
lature; of accusing the governor of having given up
the cause of religion by passing the bill; when, in
fact, had he rejected it, he would never have been
able to have got any supplies during the course of
the war, though ever so much wanted; if, instead
of charging the commissary with want of zeal for
having exhorted them to moderate measures, they
had followed the prudent councils of that excellent
man, and had acted with more temper and modera
tion, they might, I am persuaded, in a very short
time, have obtained any redress they could reason
ably have desired. The people in general were ex
tremely well affected towards the clergy, and had
expressed their regard for them in several instances;
they were sensible, moreover, that their salaries
were too scanty to support them with dignity, and
there had been some talk about raising them: had
the clergy therefore, before they applied to England,
[5i]

Travels Through North America
only offered a memorial to the assembly, setting
forth that they thought the act extremely hard upon
them, as their salaries were small; and that they
hoped the assembly would take their case into con
sideration, and enable them to live with that decency
which became their character; I am persuaded, from
the knowledge which I have of the people in general,
and from repeated conversations with several mem
bers of the assembly, that they might have obtained
almost any thing they could have wished; if not,
they undoubtedly would have had reason to appeal.
But, instead of this, without applying to the as
sembly for relief, after the act was passed, (for be
fore, indeed, some of them did apply to the speaker
in private) they flew out into the most violent in
vectives, immediately sent over an agent to England,
and appealed to his majesty in council. The result
has been already related.
The progress of arts and sciences in this colony
has been very inconsiderable: the college of William
and Mary is the only public place of education, and
this has by no means answered the design of its in
stitution. It has a foundation for a presidenF^n3
six professors. The business of the president is to
superintend the whole, and to read fourrtheqlogicaJ)
lectures annually. He has a handsome house to
live in, and 200 1. sterling per annum. The pro
fessor of the Indian school has 60 1. sterling, and a
house also; his business is to instruct the Indians in
[52]

Virginia
reading, writing, and the principles of the Christian
religion: this pious institution was set on foot and
promoted by the excellent Mr. Boyle.* The pro
fessor of humanity has the care of instructing the
students in classical learning: he has an usher or
assistant under him. The four other professors
teach moral philosophy, metaphysics, mathematics,
and divinity. Each of the professors has apartments
in the college, and a salary of about 80 1. per annum.f
The present chancellor of the college is the bishop
of London.
From what has been said of this colony, it will
not be difficult to form an idea of the character^ of
its inhabitants. The climate and external appear
ance of the country conspire to make them indolent,
easy, and good natured; extremely fond of society,
* See Appendix, No. 3.
f They have since been raised, I believe, to 100 1.
X General characters are always liable to many exceptions. In
Virginia, I have had the pleasure to know several gentlemen
adorned with many virtues and accomplishments, to whom the
following description is by no means applicable. Amongst others,
I cannot resist the inclination of mentioning George Wythe, Es
quire, who, to a perfect knowledge of the Greek language, which
was taught him by his mother in the back woods, and of the ancient,
particularly the Platonic philosophy, had joined such a profound
reverence for the Supreme Being, such respect for the divine laws,
such philanthropy for mankind, such simplicity of manners, and
such inflexible rectitude and integrity of principle, as would have
dignified a Roman senator, even in the most virtuous times of the
republic. This gentleman is, I believe, still living.^
\ See Note VII. [53]

Travels Through North America
and much given to convivial pleasures. In conse
quence of this, they seldom show any spirit of enter
prise, or expose themselves willingly to fatigue.
Their authority over their slaves renders them vain
and imperious, and entire strangers to that elegance
of sentiment, which is so peculiarly characteristic
of refined and polished nations. Their ignorance
of mankind and of learning, exposes them to many
errors and prejudices, especially in regard to In
dians and negroes, whom they scarcely consider as
of the human species; so that it is almost impossible,
in cases of violence, or even murder, committed upon
those unhappy people by any of the planters, to
have the delinquents brought to justice: for either
the grand jury refuse to find the bill, or the petit
jury bring in their verdict, not guilty.*
* There are two laws in this colony, which make it almost im
possible to convict a planter, or white man, of the death of a negro
or Indian. By the first it is enacted, that "if any slave shall die
" by reason of any stroke or blow, given in correction by his or her
"owner, or by reason of any accidental blow whatsoever, given
"by such owner; no person concerned in such correction, or acci
dental homicide, shall undergo any prosecution or punishment
"for the same; unless, upon examination before the county court,
" it shall be proved by the oath of one lawful and credible witness,
"at least, that such slave was killed wilfully, maliciously, and de
signedly; nor shall any person indicted for the murder of a slave,
"and upon trial found guilty only of manslaughter, incur any for
feiture or punishment for such offence or misfortune." See
Mercer's Abridgment, p. 345. By the second, "No negro,
"mulatto, or Indian, can be admitted into any court, or before
" any magistrate, to be sworn as a witness, or give evidence in any
"cause whatsoever, except upon the trial of a slave for a capital
"offence." Mercer's Abridgment, p. 419.
([54l

Virginia
The display of a character thus constituted, will
naturally be in acts of extravagance, ostentation,
and a disregard of economy; it is not extraordinary
therefore, that the Virginians outrun their incomes;
and that having involved themselves in difficulties,
they are frequently tempted to raise money by bills
of exchange, which they know will be returned pro
tested, with 10 per cent, interest.*
The public or political character of the Virginians
corresponds with their private one: they are haughty
and jealous of their liberties, impatient of restraint,
and can scarcely bear the thought of being controuled
by any superior power. Many of them consider the
* By an act of assembly, if any bill of exchange is drawn for the
payment of any sum of money, and such bill is protested for non
payment, it carries interest from the date thereof, after the rate of
10 per cent, per annum, until the money be fully satisfied and paid-
A very curious anecdote relative to this law was mentioned to me
at Williamsburg, of which I am persuaded the reader will excuse
the relation. An usurer, not satisfied with 5 1. per cent, legal in
terest, refused to advance a sum of money to a gentleman, unless,
by way of security, he would give him a bill of exchange that should
be returned protested, by which he would be entitled to 10 per cent.
The gentleman, who had immediate occasion for the money, drew
a bill upon a capital merchant in London, with whom he had never
had any transaction, or carried on the least correspondence. The
merchant, on the receipt of the bill, observing the name of the
drawer, very readily honoured it, knowing the gentleman to be a
person of great property, and concluding that he meant to enter
into correspondence with him. The usurer upon this became en
titled to only 5 1. per cent. He was exceedingly enraged, there
fore, at being, as he supposed, thus tricked: and complained very
heavily to the gentleman of his having given him a good bill in
stead of a bad one. [55]

Travels Through North America
colonies as independent^ states, not connected with
Great Britain, otherwise than by having the same
common king, and being bound to her by natural
affection. There are but few of them that have a
turn for business, and even those are by no means
expert at it. I have known them, upon a very
urgent occasion, vote the relief of a garrison,
without once considering whether the thing was prac
ticable, when it was most evidently and demonstra
bly otherwise.* In matters of commerce they are
ignorant of the necessary principles that must pre
vail between a colony and the mother country; they
think it a hardship not to have an jinlimited_£rade
to every part of the worldj They consider the duties
upon their staple as injurious only to themselves;
* The garrison here alluded to, was that of Fort Loudoun, in the
Cherokee country, consisting of a lieutenant, and about fifty men.
This unfortunate party being besieged by the Cherokee Indians,
and reduced to the last extremity, sent off runners to the governors
of Virginia and Carolina, imploring immediate succour; adding,
that it was impossible for them to hold out above twenty days
longer. The assembly of Virginia, commiserating their unhappy
situation, very readily voted a considerable sum for their relief.
With this, troops were to be levied; were to rendezvous upon the
frontiers 200 miles distant from Williamsburg; were afterward to
proceed to the fort 200 miles farther through a wilderness, where
there was no road, no magazines, no posts, either to shelter the
sick, or cover a retreat in case of any disaster; so that the unfor
tunate garrison might as effectually have been succoured from the
moon. The author taking notice of these difficulties to one of the
members, he frankly replied, " Faith, it is true: but we have had an
opportunity at least of showing our loyalty." In a few days
after arrived the melancholy news, that this unfortunate party was
entirely cut off. [56]

Virginia
and it is utterly impossible to persuade them that
they affect the consumer also. However, to do them
justice, the same spirit of generosity prevails here
which does in their private character; they never
refuse any necessary supplies for the support of
government when called upon, and are a generous
and loyal jjeqple.
The women are, generally speaking, handsome,
though not to be compared with our fair country
women in England. They have but few advan
tages, and consequently are seldom accomplished;
this makes them reserved, and unequal to any in
teresting or refined conversation. They are im
moderately fond of dancing, and indeed it is almost
the only amusement they partake of: but even in
this they discover want of taste and elegance, and
seldom appear with that gracefulness and ease,
which these movements are calculated to display.
Towards the close of an evening, when the company
are pretty well tired with country dances, it is usual
to dance jigs; a practice originally borrowed, I am
informed, from the negroes.* These dances are
without method or regularity: a gentleman and lady
stand up, and dance about the room, one of them
retiring, the other pursuing, then perhaps meeting,
in an irregular fantastical manner. After some
* The author has since had an opportunity of observing some
thing similar in Italy. The trescone of the Tuscans is very like
the jigs of the Virginians. [57]

Travels Through North America
time, another lady gets up, and then the first lady
must sit down, she being, as they term it, cut out:
the second lady acts the same part which the first
did, till somebody cuts her out. The gentlemen
perform in the same manner. The Virginian ladies,
excepting these amusements, and now and then
going upon a party of pleasure into the woods to
partake of a barbecue,* chiefly spend their time in
sewing and taking care of their families : they seldom
read, or endeavour to improve their minds; how
ever, they are in general good housewives; and
though they have not, I think, quite so much tender
ness and sensibility as the English ladies, yet they
make as good wives, and as good mothers, as any in
the world.
It is hard to determine whether this colony can
be called flourishing, or not; because though it pro
duces great quantities of tobacco and grain, yet
there seem to be very few improvements carrying on
in it. Great part of Virginia is a wilderness, and as
* Mons. de Willd, in his French translation of these travels,
makes the following observation upon the word, barbecue:
"Cet amusement barbare consiste a fouetter les pores jusqu'a
"la mort, pour en rendre la chair plus delicate. Je ne sache pas
"que les cannibales meme le pratiquent."
In justice to the inhabitants of Virginia, I must beg leave to
observe, that such a cruel and inhuman act was never, to my
knowledge at least, practised in that country. A barbecue is
nothing more than a porker, killed in the usual way, stuffed with
spices and other rich ingredients, and basted with Madeira wine.
It is esteemed a very great delicacy; and is, I believe, a costly dish.
[58]

Virginia
many of the gentlemen are in possession of immense
tracts of land, it is likely to continue so. A spirit
of enterprise is by no means the turn of the colony,
and therefore few attempts have been made to force
a trade; which I think might easily be done, both to
the West Indies and the Ohio. They have every
thing necessary for such an undertaking; viz. lumber,
provisions, grain, and every other commodity, which
the other colonies, that subsist and grow rich by
these means, make use of for exports; but, instead of
this, they have only a trifling communication with
the West Indies; and as to the Ohio, they have suf
fered themselves, notwithstanding the superior ad
vantages they might enjoy from having a water
carriage almost to the Youghiogheny, to neglect this
valuable branch of commerce; while the industrious
Pennsylvanians seize every opportunity, and struggle
with innumerable difficulties to secure it to them
selves. The Virginians are content if they can but
live from day to day; they confine themselves almost
entirely to the cultivation of tobacco; and if they have
but enough of this to pay their merchants in London,
and to provide for their pleasures, they are satisfied,
and .desire nothing more. Some few, indeed, have
been rather more enterprising, and have endeav
oured to improve their estates by raising indigo, and
other schemes : but whether it has been owing to the
climate, to their inexperience in these matters, or
their want of perseverance, I am unable to deter-
[59]

Travels Through North America
mine, but their success has not answered their ex
pectations. The taxes of this colony are considerable, and the
public debt amounts to at least 400,000 1. currency;
this they have been driven into by the war, having
seldom had less than a thousand or fifteen hundred
provincial troops in pay, exclusive of the expenses
of some forts. The ways and means employed for
raising the money have been generally the same:
they have first made an emission of so much paper
currency as the exigency required, and then laid a
tax for sinking it. This tax has been commonly
upon lands and negroes, two shillings for every
titheable; and a shilling or eighteen-pence upon
every hundred acres of land. This mode of taxa
tion has occasioned some divisions in the house; for
the owners of large tracts being unable, perhaps, to
cultivate a tenth part of their possessions, and every
man's real income arising from the number of his
negroes, have thought it very hard to pay a tax for
what they pretend is of no value to them : but much
better arguments may undoubtedly be urged in sup
port of the tax than against it.
The taxes for the present debt are laid till the
year sixty-nine, when the whole, if they add nothing
more to it, will be discharged. The use of paper
currency in this colony has entirely banished from
it gold and silver. Indeed, the introduction of it
was certain in time to produce this effect; but lest
[60]

Virginia
it should not, the Virginians fell into a measure,
which completed it at once: for by an act of assembly
they fixed the exchange between currency and ster
ling debts at five and twenty per cent, not consider
ing that the real value of their currency could only
be regulated by itself. The consequence was, that
when from frequent emissions, the difference of ex
change between bills upon merchants in London
and currency was 40 per cent., the difference be
tween currency and specie* was only five and twenty.
So that the moneyed men collected all the specie they
could, sent it to Philadelphia, where it passed for its
real value, purchased bills of exchange with it there,
and sold them again in Virginia with fifteen per cent.
profit: and this they continued to do till there was
not a pistole or a dollar remaining.
During my stay in Virginia, I made several ex
cursions into different parts of the country: one in
particular to the great falls of Potomac; of which,
as I expected to be highly entertained, I kept a
journal. I departed from Williamsburg, Oct. 1, 1759, in
company with another gentleman ;f and we travelled
that day about forty miles, to a plantation^: in King
* Fixing the difference between currency and sterling debts,
was, in reality, fixing it between currency and specie.
t Col. Bernard Moore.
X Belonging to Col. Symes. This gentleman's lady, a very
beautiful woman, was said to have just attained her 21st year.
[61]

Travels Through North America
William county, beautifully situated upon a high
hill, on the north side of Pamunky river. A little
below this place stands the Pamunky Indian town,
where at present are the few remaining of that large
tribe, the rest having dwindled away through in
temperance and disease. They live in little wig
wams or cabins upon the river; and have a very fine
tract of land of about 2,000 acres, which they are
restrained from alienating by act of assembly. Their
employment is chiefly hunting or fishing for the
neighboring gentry. They commonly dress like the
Virginians, and I have sometimes mistaken them
for the lower sort of that people.* The night I spent
here, they went out into an adjoining marsh to
catch soruses; and one of them, as I was informed
in the morning, caught near a hundred dozen. The
manner of taking these birds is remarkable. The
sorus is not known to be in Virginia, except for about
six weeks from the latter end of September: at that
time they are found in the marshes in prodigious
numbers, feeding upon the wild oats. At first they
are exceedingly lean, but in a short time grow so fat,
as to be unable to fly: in this state they lie upon the
reeds, and the Indians go out in canoes and knock
them on the head with their paddles. They are
She was at that time the mother of seven children, all living. The
women in general, in this country, arrive at maturity very early.
Some are marriageable at eleven, many at thirteen, and the gen
erality at fourteen or fifteen years of age.
* See Appendix, No. 3. [62]

Falls of Rappahannock
rather bigger than a lark, and are delicious eating.
During the time of their continuing in season, you
meet with them at the tables of most of the planters,
breakfast, dinner and supper.*
Oct. 2. We went to another plantation about
twenty-four miles distant, belonging to a private
gentleman,"}" upon Mattapony river. We staid there
all that and the next day on account of rain.
Oct. 4. We traveled twenty-five miles to another
gentleman's \ house; and from thence, the day fol
lowing, about twenty-five miles farther, to a town
called Fredericksburg.
j Fredericksburg is situated about a mile below the
Falls of Rappahannock: it is regularly laid out, as
most of the towns in Virginia are, in parallel streets.
Part of it is built upon an eminence, and commands
a delightful prospect; the rest upon the edge of the
water for the convenience of warehouses. The
town was begun about thirty-two years ago, for the
sake of carrying on a trade with the back-settlers;
and is at present by far the most flourishing one in
these parts.
* In several parts of Virginia the ancient custom of eating meat
at breakfast still continues. At the top of the table, where the
lady of the house presides, there is constantly tea and coffee; but
the rest of the table is garnished with roasted fowls, ham, venison,
game, and other dainties. Even at Williamsburg, it is the custom
to have a plate of cold ham upon the table; and there is scarcely
a Virginian lady who breakfasts without it.
f Major Henry Gaines.
X Col. Bailors. [63]

Travels Through North America
We left Fredericksburg the 6th instant, and went
to see the Falls. At this place is a small mercantile
town called Falmouth, whose inhabitants are en
deavouring to rival the Fredericksburghers in their
trade. It is built upon the north side of the river,
and consists of eighteen or twenty houses.
The Falls of Rappahannock are similar to those of
James river, except that they are not upon so large
a scale. The whole range scarcely exceeds half a
mile, and the breadth not a hundred yards. At the
time of our going to see them, there was a fresh in
the river, which added very much to their beauty.
The center of view was an island of about an hun
dred acres covered with trees; this divided the river
into two branches, in each of which, at regular dis
tances of fifteen or twenty yards, was a chain of six
or seven falls, one above another, the least of them
a foot perpendicular. The margin was beautifully
variegated with rocks and trees, and the whole
formed a pleasing romantic scene.
At this place we met with a person who informed
us of his having been, a few days before, a spectator
of that extraordinary phenomenon in nature, the
fascinating power of the rattle-snake. He observed
one lying coiled near a tree, looking directly at a bird
which had settled there. The bird was under great
agitation, uttered the most doleful cries, hopped from
spray to spray, and at length flew directly down to
the snake, which opened its mouth and swallowed it.
[64]

The Northern Neck
From hence we ascended up the river, about
fifteen miles, to Spotswood's iron-mines; and in our
way had a fine view of the Appalachian mountains, or
Blue Ridge, at the distance of seventy miles. At
this place I was much affected by the following in
cident. A gentleman in our company, which was
now increased, had a small negro boy with him,
about fourteen years of age, that had lived with him
in a remote part of the country some time as a ser
vant; an old woman who was working in the mines,
and who proved to be the boy's grandmother, acci
dentally cast her eyes on him; she viewed him with
great attention for some time; then screamed out,
saying that it was her child, and flung herself down
upon the ground. She lay there some seconds; rose
up, looked on him again in an ecstasy of joy, and fell
upon his neck and kissed him. After this, she re
tired a few paces, examined him afresh with fixed
attention, and immediately seemed to lose herself
in thoughtful and profound melancholy. The boy
all this while stood silent and motionless, reclining
his head on one side, pale and affected beyond de
scription. It would not have been in the power of
painting to exhibit a finer picture of distress.
We returned from this place the next day to
Fredericksburg; and ferrying over the Rappahannock
into the Northern Neck, travelled about seventeen
miles to a gentleman's house in Stafford county: in
the morning we proceeded through Dumfries, and
[65]

Travels Through North America
over Occoquan river to Colchester, about twenty-
one miles.
These are two small towns lately built for the sake
of the back trade; the former* on the Quantico, the
other upon Occoquan river, both of which fall into
the Potomac. About two miles above Colchester
there is an iron furnace, a forge, two saw-mills, and
a bolting-mill: at our return we had an opportunity
of visiting them: they have every convenience of
wood and water, that can be wished for. The ore
wrought here is brought from Maryland; not that
there is any doubt of there being plenty enough in
the adjacent hills; but the inhabitants are discouraged
from trying for it by the proprietor's (viz. Lord Fair
fax) having reserved to himself a third of all ore that
may be discovered in the Northern Neck.f
* In the preceding editions of this book, Dumfries is mentioned
as situated upon Acquia Creek: but this is certainly erroneous; for
all the maps describe it as situated upon the Quantico. The error
probably arose from the author's having passed the Acquia, the
Quantico, and the Occoquan rivers in the same day; and his want
of perfect and correct recollection, when he wrote his journal in
the evening.
f An occurrence happened to me in the course of this day's
travelling, which, though it made a considerable impression upon
me at the time, I should not have thought of sufficient moment to
be recorded, had not the intellectual powers of the African negroes
been frequently, of late, made the subject of conversation, both by
the friends and the opposers of the emancipation of that unhappy
race. In passing either Acquia, Quantico, or Occoquan rivers,
I do not recollect which, I was rowed by an old gray-headed negro
who seemed quite exhausted and worn down by age and infirmity.
I inquired into his situation, and received for answer, that he had
[66]

Falls of Potomac
From Colchester we went about twelve miles
farther to Mount Vernon. This place is the prop
erty of Colonel Washington, and truly deserving of
its owner.* The house is most beautifully situated
upon a high hill on the banks of the Potomac; and
commands a noble prospect of water, of cliffs, of
woods, and plantations. The river is nearly two
miles broad, though two hundred from the mouth;
been a slave from his youth, and had continued to work for his
master till age had rendered him unfit for service; that his master
had then kindly given him a small piece of ground, and the profits
of the ferry, which were indeed very inconsiderable, for his main
tenance; and that with these means of subsistence he awaited the
hour when it might please God to call him to another life. I ob
served that he must naturally wish for that hour, as it would re
lease him from his present sufferings. His answer was, no; for
he was afraid to die. On my questioning him, why he was afraid
to die: whether he had any thing upon his conscience that gave
him uneasiness; or whether he had not been honest and faithful to
his master ? He answered, yes; I have always done my duty to
the best of my power: but yet I am afraid to die: and was not our
Saviour himself afraid to die ? The answer was so unexpected,
and so far beyond what I supposed to be the intellectual capacity
of the poor negro, that it sunk deep into my mind, and I 'was
lost for a moment in silence.
-— -*I cannot omit this opportunity of bearing testimony to the
gallant and public spirit of this gentleman. Nov. i, 1753, Lieut.
Gov. Dinwiddie having informed the assembly of Virginia, that
the French had erected a fort upon the Ohio, it was resolved to
send somebody to M. St. Pierre, the commander, to claim that
country as belonging to his Britannic Majesty, and to order him
to withdraw. Mr. Washington, a young gentlemen of fortune
just arrived at age, offered his service on this important occasion.
The distance was more than 400 miles; 200 of which lay through
a trackless desert, inhabited by cruel and merciless savages; and
the season was uncommonly severe. Notwithstanding these dis-
[67]

Travels Through North America
and divides the dominions of Virginia from Mary
land.* We rested here one day, and proceeded up
the river about twenty-six miles, to take a view of the
Great Falls. These are formed in some respect like
those of the Rappahannock; but are infinitely more
noble. The channel of the river is contracted by
hills; and is as narrow, I was told, as at Fort Cum
berland, which is an hundred and fifty miles higher
up. It is clogged moreover with innumerable rocks;
so that the water for a mile or two flows with ac
celerated velocity. At length coming to a ledge of
rocks, which runs diametrically across the river, it
divides into two spouts, each about eight yards wide,
couraging circumstances, Mr. Washington, attended by one com
panion only, set out upon this dangerous enterprise: travelled
from Winchester on foot, carrying his provisions on his back, exe
cuted his commission; and after incredible hardships, and many
providential escapes, returned safe to Williamsburg, and gave an
account of his negotiation to the assembly, the 14th day of Feb
ruary following.
* A very curious sight is frequently exhibited upon this and the
other great rivers in Virginia, which for its novelty is exceedingly
diverting to strangers. During the spring and summer months
the fishing-hawk is often seen hovering over the rivers, or resting
on the wing without the least visible change of place for some
minutes, then suddenly darting down and plunging into the water,
from whence it seldom rises again without a rock fish, or some
other considerable fish, in its talons. It immediately shakes off the
water like a mist, and makes the best of its way towards the woods.
The bald eagle, which is generally upon the watch, instantly pur
sues, and if it can overtake, endeavours to soar above it. The
hawk growing solicitous for its own safety drops the fish, and the
bald eagle immediately stoops, and seldom fails to catch it in its
pounces before it reaches the water. [68]

Falls of Potomac
and rushes down a precipice with incredible rapidity.
The spout on the Virginian side makes three falls,
one above another; the first about ten feet, the next
fifteen, and the last twenty-four or twenty-five feet
perpendicular: the water is of a vast bulk, and almost
entire. The spout on the Maryland side is nearly
equal in height and quantity, but a great deal more
broken. These two spouts, after running in sepa
rate channels for a short space, at length unite in
one about thirty yards wide; and as we judged from
the smoothness of the surface and our unsuccessful
endeavours to fathom it, of prodigious depth. The
rocks on each side are at least ninety or a hundred
feet high; and yet, in great freshes, the water over
flows the tops of them, as appeared by several large
and entire trees, which had lodged there.
In the evening we returned down the river about
sixteen miles to Alexandria, or Belhaven, a small
trading place in one of the finest situations imagin
able. The Potomac above and below the town, is
not more than a mile broad, but it here opens into a
large circular bay, of at least twice that diameter.
The town is built upon an arc of this bay; at one
extremity of which is a wharf; at the other a dock for
building ships; with water sufficiently deep to launch
a vessel of any rate or magnitude.
The next day we returned to Colonel Washington's,
and in a few days afterward to Williamsburg.
The time of my residence in this colony was ten
[69]

Travels Through North America
months, and I received so many instances of friend
ship and good-nature, that not to acknowledge them
would be an act of ingratitude. It would not be
easy to mention particular instances, without being
guilty of injustice by omitting others: but, in general,
I can truly affirm, that I took leave of this hospitable
people with regret, and shall ever remember them
with gratitude and affection.
May 26, 1760. Having procured three horses,
for myself, servant, and baggage, I departed from
Williamsburg, and travelled that night to Eltham;*
twenty- five miles.
May 27. I ferried over Pamunky river at Dan-
„ sies, and went to Todd's ordinary upon Mattopony,
or the northern branch of York river; thirty-two
miles. May 28. I went to a plantation in Caroline
county ;f twenty-seven miles.
May 29. To Fredericksburg; twenty-five miles.
As I was travelling this day, I observed a large
black-snake, about six feet long, lying cross the stump
of a tree by the road side. I touched it with my
switch several times before it stirred; at last it darted
with incredible swiftness into the woods. On look
ing into the hole, where it had fixed its head, I
observed a small bead-snake about two feet long; beau
tifully variegated with red, black, and orange colour,
* The plantation of Col. Bassett.
f Belonging to Col. Bailor, mentioned above.
[70]

Virginia
which the black-snake was watching to prey upon.
I took and laid it, half stupefied, in the sun to revive.
After I proceeded about a quarter of a mile, it oc
curred to me that it would be a great curiosity if I
could carry it to England; I therefore sent my ser
vant back with orders to fetch it: but, at his return,
he acquainted me that it was not to be found, and
that the black-snake was in the same position where
in I had first discovered it. I mention this as an
instance of the intrepid nature of the black-snake,
which, though not venomous, will attack and devour
the rattlesnake; and, in some cases, it is asserted,
even dare to assault a man.
May 30. I left Fredericksburg, and having ferried
over the Rappahannock at the falls, travelled that
night to Neville's ordinary, about thirty-four miles.
May 31. I passed over the Pignut and Blue
Ridges; and, crossing the Shenandoah, arrived, after
a long day's journey of above fifty miles, at
Winchester.* The Pignut ridge is a continuation of the south
west mountains. It is no where very high; and at
the gap where I passed, the ascent is so extremely
easy, owing to the winding of the road between the
mountains, that I was scarcely sensible of it.
* Greenway Court, the seat of the venerable Lord Fairfax, is
situated a few miles on the left of the road, about half way between
the Appalachian mountains and Winchester. His Lordship being
absent, I was prevented from paying my respects to him. — See
Appendix, No. 4.
[70

Travels Through North America
The tract of country lying between this ridge and
the coast, is supposed, and with some appearance of
probability, to have been gained from the ocean.
The situation is extremely low, and the ground every
where broken into small hills, nearly of the same
elevation, with deep intermediate gullies, as if it
were the effect of some sudden retiring of the waters.
The soil is principally of sand; and there are few, if
any pebbles, within a hundred miles of the shore;
for which reason the Virginians in these parts never
shoe their horses. Incredible quantities of what
are called scallop-shells are found also near the sur
face of the ground; and many of the hills are entirely
formed of them. These phenomena, with others
less obvious to common observation, seem to in
dicate that the Atlantic, either gradually, or by
some sudden revolution in nature, has retired, and
lost a considerable part of that dominion which
formerly belonged to it.
The Blue Ridge is much higher than the Pignut:
though even these mountains are not to be compared
with the Alleghany. To the southward, I was told,
they are more lofty; and but little, if at all, inferior
to them. The pass, at Ashby's Gap, from the foot
of the mountain on the eastern side to the Shenandoah,
which runs at the foot on the western, is about four
miles. The ascent is no where very steep; though
the mountains are, upon the whole, I think, higher
than any I have ever seen in England. When I got
[72]

North Ridge
to the top, I was inexpressibly delighted with the
scene which opened before me. Immediately under
the mountain, which was covered with chamce-
daphnes in full bloom, was a most beautiful river:
beyond this an extensive plain, diversified with every
pleasing object that nature can exhibit; and, at the
distance of fifty miles, another ridge of still more
lofty mountains, called the Great, or North Ridge,*
which inclosed and terminated the whole.
The river Shenandoah rises a great way to the south
ward from under this Great North Ridge. It runs
through Augusta county, and falls into the Poto
mac somewhere in Frederick. At the place where I
ferried over, it is only about a hundred yards wide;
and indeed it is no where, I believe, very broad. It
is exceedingly romantic and beautiful, forming great
variety of falls, and is so transparent, that you may
see the smallest pebble at the depth of eight or ten
feet. There is plenty of trout and other fish in it;
but it is not navigable, except for rafts. In sudden
freshes it rises above forty or fifty feet. The low
grounds upon the banks of this river are very rich
and fertile; they are chiefly settled by Germans, who
gain a comfortable livelihood by raising stock for
the troops, and sending butter down into the lower
parts of the country. I could not but reflect with
pleasure on the situation of these people; and think
* All these ridges consist of single mountains joined together,
and run parallel to each other. [73]

Travels Through North America
if there is such a thing as happiness in this life, that
they enjoy it. Far from the bustle of the world,
they live in the most delightful climate, and richest
soil imaginable; they are everywhere surrounded
with beautiful prospects and sylvan scenes; lofty
mountains, transparent streams, falls of water, rich
valleys, and majestic woods; the whole interspersed
with an infinite variety of flowering shrubs, con
stitute the landscape surrounding them: they are
subject to few diseases; are generally robust; and
live in perfect liberty: they are ignorant of want,
and acquainted with but few vices. Their inex
perience of the elegancies of life precludes any regret
that they possess not the means of enjoying them:
but they possess what many princes would give half
their dominions for, health, content, and tranquillity
of mind.
Winchester is a small town of about two hundred
houses. It is the place of general rendezvous of the
Virginian troops, which is the reason of its late rapid
increase, and present flourishing condition. The
country about it, before the reduction of Fort du
Quesne, was greatly exposed to the ravages of the
Indians, who daily committed most horrid cruelties:
even the town would have been in danger, had not
Colonel Washington, in order to cover and protect
it, erected a fort upon an eminence at one end of it,
which proved of the utmost utility; for although the
Indians were frequently in sight of the town, they
<07+]

Win chester
never dared to approach within reach of the fort.
It is a regular square fortification, with four bastions,
mounting twenty-four cannon; the length of each
curtain, if I am not mistaken, is about eighty yards.
Within, there are barracks for 450 men. The
materials of which it is constructed are logs filled
up with earth: the soldiers attempted to surround
it with a dry ditch; but the rock was so extremely
hard and impenetrable that they were obliged to
1 desist. It is still unfinished; and, I fear, going to
J ruin; for the assembly, who seldom look a great way
[ before them, after having spent about 9,000 1. cur
rency upon it, cannot be prevailed upon to give
another thousand towards finishing it, because we
are in possession ofPittsburg; and, as they suppose,
quite secure on this account; yet it is certain, that,
in case of another Indian war on this side, which is
/ by no means improbable, considering our general
| treatment of that people, it would be of the utmost
advantage and security.
There is a peculiarity in the water at Winchester,
owing, I was told, to the soil's being of a limy quality,
which is frequently productive of severe gripings,
especially in strangers; but it is generally supposed,
on the other hand, to be specific against some other
diseases.* * Professor Haller, in his notes to the German translation of
this book, supposes that the water at Winchester may be impreg
nated with Vitriolic Magnesia, Sal Amarum.
[75]

Travels Through North America
During my stay at this place, I was almost in
duced to make a tour for a fortnight to the south
ward, in Augusta county, for the sake of seeing some
natural curiosities, which, the officers assured me,
were extremely well worth visiting: but as the Chero
kees had been scalping in those parts only a few
days before; and as I feared, at the same time, that
it would detain me too long, and that I should lose
my passage to England, I judged it prudent to
decline it.
The curiosities they mentioned to me, were chiefly
these :
i. About forty miles westward of Augusta court
house, a beautiful cascade, bursting out of the side
of a rock; and, after running some distance through
a meadow, rushing down a precipice 150 feet
perpendicular. 2. To the southward of this about twenty miles,
two curious hot springs, one tasting like alum, the
other like the washings of a gun.
3. A most extraordinary cave.
4. A medicinal spring, specific in venereal cases.
A soldier in the Virginian regiment, whose case was
thought desperate, by drinking and bathing in these
waters, was, after a few days, entirely cured. This
fact was asserted very strongly by some officers, who
had been posted there: but Colonel Washington, of
whom I inquired more particularly concerning it,
informed me that he had never heard of it; that he
[76]

Winchester
was not indeed at the place where it is said to have
happened, but that having had the command of the
regiment at that time, he should probably have been
informed of it. What credit therefore is to be given
to it, the reader must judge for himself.
5. Sixty miles southward of Augusta court-house,
a natural arch, or bridge, joining two high moun
tains, with a considerable river running underneath.
6. A river called Lost river, from its sinking under
a mountain, and never appearing again.
7. A spring of a sulphurous nature, an infallible
cure for particular cutaneous disorders.
8. Sixteen miles north-east of Winchester, a nat
ural cave or well, into which, at times, a person
may go down to the depth of 100 or 150 yards;
and at other times the water rises up to the top, and
overflows plentifully. This is called the ebbing and
flowing well, and is situated in a plain, flat country,
not contiguous to any mountain or running water.
9. A few miles from hence, six or seven curious
caves communicating with each other.
A day or two before I left Winchester, I discovered
that I had been robbed by my servant: he confessed
the fact, and pleaded so little in justification of him
self, that I was obliged to dismiss him. This dis
tressed me very much, for it was impossible to hire
a servant in these parts, or even any one to go^rver
the mountains with me into the lower settlements.
However, by the politeness of the commander of the
[77]

Travels Through North America
place, the Honourable Colonel Byrd, and of another
gentleman* of my acquaintance, I got over these
difficulties; for the former, while I continued at
Winchester, accommodated me with his own apart
ments in the fort, ordering his servants to attend and
wait upon me; and the latter sent a negro boy with
me as far as Colonel Washington's, eighty miles dis
tant from this place. On the 4th of June, therefore,
I was enabled to leave Winchester, and I travelled
that night about eighteen miles, to Sniker'sf ferry
upon the Shenandoah.
The next morning I repassed the Blue Ridge at
William's Gap, and proceeded on my journey about
forty miles. I this day fell into conversation with
a planter, who overtook me on the road, concerning
the rattle-snake, of which there are infinite numbers
in these parts; and he told me, that one day going
to a mill at some distance, he provoked one to such
a degree, as to make it strike a small vine which
grew close by, and that the vine presently drooped
and died.:}:
My accommodations this evening were extremely
* Colonel Churchill.
f Called in Fry and Jefferson's map, Williams's Ferry.
X Several persons to whom I have mentioned this fact, have
seemed to doubt of the probability of it. But were it not true, a
question will naturally arise, how an idea of that nature should
occur to an ignorant planter, living remote from all cultivated
society; and, more particularly, how he should happen to fix upon
that tree; which, supposing the thing possible, is the most likely
to have been affected in the manner described.
[78]

Virginia
bad; I had been wet to the skin in the afternoon; and
at the miserable plantation in which I had taken
shelter, I could get no fire; nothing to eat or drink
but pure water; and not even a blanket to cover me.
I threw myself down upon my mattrass, but suffered
so much from cold, and was so infested with insects
and vermin, that I could not close my eyes. I rose
early in the morning, therefore, and proceeded upon
my journey, being distant from Colonel Washing
ton's not more than thirty miles. It was late, how
ever, before I arrived there, for it rained extremely
hard, and a man who undertook to shew me the
nearest way, led me among precipices and rocks,
and we were lost for above two hours. It was not,
indeed, without some compensation; for he brought
me through as beautiful and picturesque a scene,
as eye ever beheld. It was a delightful valley, about
two miles in length, and a quarter of one in breadth,
between high and craggy mountains, covered with
chamcedaphnes* or wild ivy, in full flower. Through
the middle of the valley glided a rivulet about eight
yards wide, extremely lucid, and breaking into in
numerable cascades; and in different parts of it stood
* The chamoedaphne is the most beautiful of all flowering
shrubs: Catesby in his Natural History of Carolina speaks of it
in the following manner: "The flowers grow in bunches on the
"tops of the branches, to footstalks of three inches long; they are
"white, stained with purplish red; consisting of one leaf in form
"of a cup, divided at the verge into five sections. In the middle
"is a stilus, and ten stamina, which, when the flower first opens,
" appear lying close to the sides of the cup, at equal distances; their
[79]

Travels Through North America
small clumps of evergreens, such as myrtles, cedars,
pines, and various other sorts. Upon the whole, not
Tempe itself could have displayed greater beauty or
a more delightful scene.
At Colonel Washington's I disposed of my horses,
and, having borrowed his curricle and servant, I took
leave of Mount Vernon the nth of June.
I crossed over the Potomac into Maryland at
Clifton's ferry, where the river is something more than
a mile broad; and proceeded on my journey to Marl
borough, eighteen miles. I here met with a strolling
company of players, under the direction of one
Douglas. I went to see their theatre, which was a
neat, convenient tobacco-house, well fitted up for
the purpose.* From hence in the afternoon I pro
ceeded to Queen Anne, nine miles; and in the evening
nine miles farther, over the Patuxent to London-
town ferry; I staid here all night, and early in the
morning ferrying over South river, three quarters of
a mile in breadth, I arrived at Annapolis, four
miles distant, about nine in the morning.
Annapolis is the capital of Maryland; it is a small,
neat town, consisting of about a hundred and fifty
" apices being lodged in ten little hollow cells, which being promi-
"nent on the outside, appear as so many little tubercles. — As all
"plants have their peculiar beauties, it is difficult to assign to any
"one an elegance excelling all others; yet considering the curious
"structure of the flower, and beautiful appearance of this whole
"plant, I know of no shrub that has a better claim to it." Catesby,
Vol. II. p. 98. See Appendix, No. I.
* See Note VIII. [80]

Annapolis
houses, situated on a peninsula upon Severn river.
The peninsula is formed by the river, and two small
creeks; and although the river is not above a mile
broad; yet as it falls into Chesapeake bay a little be
low, there is from this town the finest water-prospect
imaginable. The bay is twelve miles over, and be
yond it you may discern the eastern shore; so that
the scene is diversified with fields, woods, and water.
The tide rises here about two feet, and the water is
salt, though the distance of the Capes is more than
200 miles. The town is not laid out regularly, but
is tolerably well built, and has several good brick
houses. None of the streets are paved, and the few
public buildings here are not worth mentioning.
The church is a very poor one, the stadt-house but
indifferent, and the governor's palace is not finished.
This last mentioned building was begun a few years
ago; it is situated very finely upon an eminence, and
commands a beautiful view of the town and environs.
It has four large rooms on the lower floor, besides
a magnificent saloon, a stair-case, and a vestibule.
On each side of the entrance are four windows, and
nine upon the first story; the offices are under ground.
It was to have had a fine portico the whole range of
the building; but unluckily the governor and as
sembly disagreeing about ways and means, the exe
cution of the design was suspended; and only the
shell of the house has been finished, which is now
going to ruin. The house which the present gov-
[81]

Travels Through North America
ernor inhabits, is hired by the province at 80 1. cur
rency per annum.
There is yery_littl£_trade carried on from this
place, and the chief of the inhabitants are store
keepers or public officers. They build two or three
ships annually, but seldom more. There are no
fortifications, except a miserable battery of fifteen
six-pounders. Maryland is situated between the 38th and 40th
degree of north latitude, and the 75th and 80th of
west longitude from London. It is bounded on the
east by the Atlantic ocean, and the three lower
counties of Delaware; on the south and west by
Virginia; and by Pennsylvania on the north. The
climate, soil, and natural productions of it are nearly
the same as those of Virginia. It is watered by
many fine rivers, and almost innumerable creeks;
but it is farJroiBubeing well cultivated, and; is ca
pable of jnuch injprovgment. It is divided into
fourteen counties, and between forty and fifty
parishes; and there are several little towns in it
which are neatly built. The inhabitants, exclusive
of slaves, are supposed to be about ninety thousand:
of which the militiaijncluding all white rnalesjpj-
tween sixteenjnd fifty, amounts to eighteen. , i,The
slaves are about thirty-two thousand. The staple
of the country is tobacco; and, communibus annis,
they export near 30,000 hogsheads: last year their
[82]

Maryland
exports amounted to 50,000. Their manufactures
are very trifling. The government is a proprietary
one; and consists of the proprietor (viz. Lord Balti
more); his governor, the council, composed of
\ twelve persons nominated by himself; and a house
pf representatives, elected by the people; four for
each county, and two for Annapolis. The power
( of the proprietor is next to regal; of the other parts
Lxjf the legislature, much the same as in Virginia.
The lower house has been at variance some years
with the council and governor, concerning ways and
\ means; chiefly in regard to taxing the merchants'
book-debts : which has been the reason of their hav
ing done nothing for the defence of the colonies
v during the war. The house has constantly voted
troops, but as constantly laid the same tax for the
maintenance of them : the council therefore has
always rejected the bill; alleging the inconvenience
of such a tax, as it would necessarily be a restraint
upon trade; and ruin many of the merchants' credit.
— The proprietor has a negative* upon every bill,
exclusive of his governor.
There are several courts of judicature in this
province; but the principal are either those which
are held quarterly in each county by the justices
thereof, like those in Virginia; or the provincial
ones, which are held twice annually at Annapolis
* This power is doubted, though it has never yet been contested.
[83]

Travels Through North America
by judges appointed for that purpose.* The court of
chancery consists of the governor and council: and
the dernier resort is to his majesty in council at home.
The established, religion is that of the Church of
England: But there are as many_Roman Catholics
a§£^qtestants} The clergy are liberally provided
for; they have not, as in Virginia, a fixed quantity
of tobacco; but so much per head, viz. 30 lb. weight
for every titheable in their respective parishes: and
some of them make more than 300 1. sterling per
annum. They are presented to their livings by the
governor; and are under the jurisdiction of the
bishop of London; but being at a great distance
from England, and having no commissary to super
intend their affairs, they lie under many disadvan
tages. Asse'ssments are made, I was told, by the
county courts; the vestry, which consists of twelve
members distinct from the church wardens, have
little pr no authority. f
In each county throughout this province, there
is a public freejchool, for reading, writing, and
accounts; but no college or. academy; and the edu
cation of youth is but little attended to.
* Besides these courts, there was formerly a general court of
assize held throughout the province either once or twice a year,
but this has been laid aside.
f The whole vestry, as in Virginia, consists of twelve members;
but they go off by rotation two every year; and there is annually a
fresh election. They have the power of appointing inspectors,
etc. [84]

Chesapeake-Bay
r The character of the inhabitants is much the same
1 as that of the Virginians; and the state of the two
^colonies nearly alike. Tobacco, to speak in general,
is the chief thing attended to in both. There have
been some attempts to make wine; and it is certain,
that the country is capable of producing almost any
sort of grapes. Col. Tasco, a gentleman of dis
tinction in these parts, attempted to make Burgundy,
and succeeded tolerably well for the first trial. I
drank some of the wine at the table of Mr. Hamilton,
the governor of Pennsylvania, and thought it not
bad. But whether, as this gentleman is now de
ceased, any other person will have spirit to prose
cute his plan, I much doubt. The currency here
is paper money, and the difference of exchange
s about fifty per cent. The duty upon negroes is
! only forty shillings currency per head at their im
portation; whereas in Virginia it is ten pounds.
June 13. I hired a schooner of about ten ton,
and embarked for the head of the bay, distant
twenty-three leagues; we made sail with a fresh
breeze, and after a pleasant passage of sixteen hours,
in one of the most delightful days imaginable, ar
rived at Fredericktown upon Sassafras river, about
twelve in the evening. I never in my life spent a
day more agreeably, or with higher entertainment.
The shores on each side of the bay, and the many
little islands interspersed in it, afford very beautiful
prospects; we were entertained at the same time by
[85]

Travels Through North America
innumerable porpoises playing about the bow of the
ship; and naturally fell into a train of the most pleas
ing reflections, on observing the mouths of the many
noble rivers as we passed along. On the western
shore, besides those great rivers of Virginia, which
I have already described, there are ten or eleven
others, large and capacious, some of them navigable
a considerable way up into the country.* "The
Patuxent, which we have left behind us," said the
master of the schooner, as we were sailing over this
beautiful bay, " is navigable near fifty miles for vessels
of three hundred ton burthen. Yonder," he added,
" are South, Severn, and Magotty rivers, navigable
about ten miles. A little farther is the Patapsico,
a large and noble river; where I have gone up fifteen
miles. Back, Middle, Gunpowder, and Bush rivers
admit only sloops and schooners, and these only for
six or seven miles. The Susquehanna, though so
majestic, and superior in appearance, has only a
short, and that a bad navigation; but it rises an im
mense way off in unknown and inhospitable regions,
is exceedingly large and beautiful, and affords great
variety of fish. The next, or North rivert is navi
gable about ten miles. On the eastern shore," he
concluded, " are Elk, Bahama, Sassafras, Chester,
Wye, Miles, Great Choptank, Little Choptank, Nan-
* By some error or oversight the names of several rivers here
mentioned, though particularly specified in the original manu
script, were omitted in the first and second editions of this work.
They are now inserted, and the account is correct.
[86]

Newcastle
ticote, Manokin, and Pocomoke rivers, all of them
navigable, more or less, for several miles*." Such
was our conversation and entertainment during this
delightful voyage.
Frederictown is a small village on the western
side of Sassafras river, built for the accommodation
of strangers and travellers; on the eastern side,
exactly opposite to it, is another small village (George
town), erected for the same purpose. Having hired
an Italian chaise, with a servant and horse to attend
me as far as Philadelphia, I left Frederictown the
next day, and went to Newcastle, thirty-two miles.
Newcastle is situated upon Delaware river, about
forty miles above the Bay, and a hundred from the
Capes. It is the capital of the three lower counties,
but a place of very little consideration; there are
scarcely more than a hundred houses in it, and no
public buildings that deserve to be taken notice of.
The church, Presbyterian and Quaker meeting
houses, court-house, and market-house, are almost
equally bad, and undeserving of attention.
The province, of which this is the capital, and
which is distinguished by the name of the Three
Lower Counties of Newcastle, Sussex, and Kent,
belonged formerly to the Dutch; but was ratified
to the crown of England by the treaty of Breda; it
was afterwards sold by the Duke of York to the
proprietor of Pennsylvania, and has continued a
* He said from eighteen to fifty miles.
[87]

Travels Through North America
separate government, though under nearly the same
regulations with that province, ever since. The
same governor presides over both; but the assembly,
and courts of judicature are different: different as to
their constituent members, for in form they are nearly
alike. The assembly consists of eighteen persons,
elected annually by the people; six for each county:
this, with the governor, forms the legislature of the
province. There is a militia, in which all persons,
from eighteen to fifty, are obliged to be enrolled; and
the county of Newcastle alone furnishes more than
seven hundred.
The next day I set out for Philadelphia, distant
about thirty-six miles, and arrived there in the eve
ning. The country all the way bore a different
aspect from any thing I had hitherto seen in America.
It was much better cultivated, and beautifully laid
out into fields of clover, grain, and flax. I passed
by a very pretty village called Wilmington; and rode
through two others, viz. Chester and Derby. The
Delaware river is in sight great part of the way, and
is three miles broad. Upon the whole nothing could
be more pleasing than the ride which I had this day.
I ferried over the Schuylkill, about three miles below
Philadelphia; from whence to the city the whole
country is covered with villas, gardens, and luxuriant
orchards. Philadelphia, if we consider that not eighty years
ago the place where it now stands was a wild and un-
[88]

Philadelphia
cultivated desert, inhabited by nothing but ravenous
beasts, and a savage people, must certainly be the
object of every one's wonder and admiration. It is
situated upon a tongue of land, a few miles above
the confluence of the Delaware and Schuylkill; and
contains about 3,000 houses, and 18 or 20,000 in
habitants. It is built north and south upon the
banks of the Delaware; and is nearly two miles in
length, and three quarters of one in breadth. The
streets are laid out with great regularity in parallel
lines, intersected by others at right angles, and are
handsomely built: on each side there is a pavement
of broad stones for foot passengers; and in most of
them a causeway in the middle for carriages. Upon
dark nights it is well lighted, and watched by a
patrol: there are many fair houses, and public
edifices in it. The stadt-house is a large, handsome,
though heavy building; in this are held the councils,
the assemblies, and supreme courts; there are apart
ments in it also for the accommodation of Indian
chiefs or sachems; likewise two libraries, one be
longing to the province, the other to a society, which
was incorporated about ten years ago, and consists
of sixty members. Each member upon admission,
subscribed forty shillings; and afterward annually
ten. They can alienate their shares, by will or deed,
to any person approved by the society. They have
a small collection of medals and medallions, and a
few other curiosities, such as the skin of a rattle-
[89]

Travels Through North America
snake killed at Surinam twelve feet long; and several
Northern Indian habits made of furs and skins.
At a small distance from the stadt-house, there is
another fine library, consisting of a very valuable
and chosen collection of books, left by a Mr. Logan;
they are chiefly in the learned languages.* Near
this there is also a noble- hospital for lunatics, and
other sick persons. Besides these buildings, there
are spacious barracks for 17 or 1800 men; a good
assembly-room belonging to the society of Free
Masons; and eight or ten places of religious worship;
viz. two churches, three Quaker meeting-houses,
two Presbyterian^ ditto, one Lutheran church, one
Dutch Calvinist ditto, one Swedish ditto, one Romish
chapel, one Anabaptist meeting-house, one Mora
vian ditto : there is also an academy or college, origi
nally built for a tabernacle for Mr. Whitefieldl At
the south end of the town, upon the river, there is a
battery mounting thirty guns, but it is in a state of
decay. It was designed to be a check upon pri
vateers. These, with a few alms-houses, and a
school-house belonging to the Quakers, are the chief
public buildings in Philadelphia. The city is in a
very Jflouri^hing. state, and inhabited by merchants,
artists, tradesmen, and persons of all occupations.
There is a public market held twice a week, upon
Wednesday and Saturday, almost equal to that of
Leadenhall, and a tolerable one every day besides.
* See Note IX. [90]

Philadelphia
The streets are crowded with people, and the river
with vessels. Houses are so dear, that they will let
for ioo 1. currency per annum; and lots, not above
thirty feet in breadth, and a hundred in length, in
advantageous situations, will sell for 1,000 1. sterling.
There are several docks upon the river, and about
twenty-five vessels are built there annually. I
counted upon the stocks at one time no less than
seventeen, many of them three-masted vessels.*
Can the mind have a greater pleasure than in
contemplating the rise and progress of cities and
kingdoms ? Than in perceiving a rich and opulent
state arising out of a small settlement or colony ?
This pleasure every one must feel who considers
Pensylvania. This wonderful province is situated
between the 40th and 43d degree of north latitude,
and about 76 degrees west longitude from London,
in a healthy and delightful climate, amidst all the
advantages that nature can bestow. The soil is
extremely strong and fertile, and produces spon
taneously an infinite variety of trees, flowers, fruits,
and plants of different sorts. The mountains are
enriched with ore, and the rivers with fish: some of
these are so stately as not to be beheld without ad
miration: the Delaware is navigable for large vessels
as far as the falls, 180 miles distant from the sea, and
120 from the bay. At the mouth it is more than
three miles broad, and above one at Philadelphia.
* See Appendix, No. 2. [9i]

Travels Through North America
The navigation is obstructed in the winter, for about
six weeks, by the severity of the frost; but, at other
times, it is bold and open. The Schuylkill, though
not navigable for any great space, is exceed
ingly romantic, and affords the most delightful
retirements. Cultivation (comparatively speaking) is carried
to a high degree of perfection; and Pennsylvania
produces not only great plenty, but also great variety
of grain; it yields likewise flax-seed, hemp, cattle of
different kinds, and various other articles.*
It is divided into eight counties, and contains
many large and populous towns : Carlisle, Lancaster,
and Germantown, consist each of near five hundred
houses; there are several others which have from
one or two hundred.
The number of inhabitants is supposed to be
between four and five hundred thousand,"}" a fifth of
* In the southern colonies cultivation is in a very low state—
The common process of it is, first to cut off the trees two or three
feet above ground, in order to let in the sun and air, leaving the
stumps to decay and rot, which they do in a few years. After this
they dig and plant, and continue to work the same field, year after
year, without ever manuring it, till it is quite spent. They then
enter upon a freshpiece of ground, allowing this a respite of about
twenty years to recover itself; during which time it becomes beauti
fully covered with Virginian pines; the seeds of that tree, which
are exceedingly small, and, when the cones open, are wafted
through the air in great abundance, sowing themselves in every
vacant spot of neglected ground.
t Doubts have since arisen, whether the number, at the time
here mentioned, amounted to more than 350,000. — See Morse's
American Geography. [92]

Pennsylvania
which are Quakers; there are very few negroes or
slaves. The trade of Pennsylvania is surprisingly extensive,
carried on to Great Britain, the West Indies, every
part of North America, the Madeiras, Lisbon, Cadiz,
Holland, Africa, the Spanish Main, and several other
places; exclusive of what is illicitly carried on to
Cape Francois, and Monte Christo. Their exports
are provisions of all kinds, lumber, hemp, flax, flax
seed, iron, furs, and deer-skins. Their imports,
English manufactures, with the superfluities and
luxuries of life. By their flag-of-truce trade, they
also get sugar, which they refine and send to Europe.
Their manufactures are^very considerable. The
Germantown thread-stockings are in high estima
tion; and the year before last, I have been credibly
informed, there were manufactured in that town
alone above 60,000 dozen pair. Their common
retail price is a dollar per pair.
The Irish settlers make very good linens: some
woolens have also been fabricated, but not, I believe,
to any amount. There are several other manufac
tures, viz. of beaver hats, which are superior in good
ness to any in Europe, of cordage, linseed-oil, starch,
myrtle-wax and spermaceti candles, soap, earthen
ware, and other commodities.
The government of this province is a proprietary
one. The legislature is lodged in the hands of a
governor, appointed (with the king's approbation)
[93]

Travels Through North America
by the proprietor; and a house of representatives
elected by the people, consisting of thirty-seven
members. These are of various religious persua
sions; for by the charter of privileges which J\£r.
Penn granted to the settlers in Pennsylvania, no per
son who believed in God could be molested in his
calling or profession; and any one who believed in
Jesus Christ might enjoy the first post under the
government. The crown has. reserved to jtselLa
power of repealing any law, whicfTmay interfere
with the prerogative, or be contrary to the laws of
Great Britain.
The judicature consists of different courts. The
justices of the peace, who, together with the other
judges, are of the governor's appointments, hold
quarterly sessions conformable to the laws of Eng
land; and, when these are finished, continue to sit
in quality of judges of common pleas, by a special
commission. The supreme court consists of a chief
justice, and two assistant judges; they have the united
authority of the King's Bench, Common Pleas, and
Court of Exchequer. They not only receive appeals,
but all causes once commenced in the inferior courts,
after the first writ, may be moved thither by a habeas
corpus, certiorari, writ of error, etc. The judges of
the supreme court have also a standing and distinct
commission, to hold, as shall seem needful, courts
of oyer and terminer, and general gaol-deliveries
throughout the province; but this power they sel-
[94]

Pennsylvania
dom, I believe, exercise. The supreme courts are
held twice a year at Philadelphia. There is no
Court of Chancery; but the want of it is supplied, in
some measure, by the other courts. There is a par
ticular officer called the register-general, appointed
by the governor, whose authority extends over the
whole province, where he has several deputies. He
grants letters of administration, and probates of wills.
In cases of dispute, or caveat entered, he may call in,
as assistants, two justices of the peace. The gov
ernor can pardon in all cases, except of treason or
murder, and then can reprieve till he knows the
king's pleasure.
There is here, as in most of the other colonies, a
Court of Vice-Admiralty, held by commission from
the Admiralty in England, for the trial of captures,
and of piracies, and other misdemeanors committed
upon the high seas; but there lies an appeal from it,
I believe, to the Court of Delegates in England.
As to religion, there is none properly established;
but Protestants of all denominations, Papists, Jews,
and all other sects whatsoever, are universally toler
ated. There are twelve clergymen of the Church of
England, who are sent by the Society for the Pro
pagation of the Gospel, and are allowed annually
50 1. each, besides what they get from subscriptions
and surplice fees. Some few of these are itinerant
missionaries, and have no fixed residence, but travel
from place to place, as occasion requires, upon the
[95]

Travels Through North America
frontiers. They are under the jurisdiction of the
bishop of London.
Arts and sciences are yet in their infancy. There
are some few persons who have discovered a taste
for music and painting*; and philosophy seems not
only to have made a considerable progress already,
but to be daily gaining ground. Thejibraiyjsociety
is an excellent institution for propagating a taste for
literature; and the college well calculated to form
and cultivate it. This last institution is erected
upon an admirable plan, and is by far thefTes^)school
for learning throughout America. It has been chiefly
raised by contributions; and its present fund is about
10,000 1. Pennsylvania money. An account of it may
be seen in Dr. Smith's (the president's) Discourses.
The Quakers also have an academy for instructing
their youth in classical learning, and practical mathe
matics: there are three teachers, and about seventy
boys in it. Besides these, there are several schools
in the province for the Dutch and other foreign
children; and a considerable one is going to be erected
at Germantown.
The Pennsylvanians, as to character, are a frugal
and industrious people: liiot remarkably courteous
and hospitable to strangers, unless particularly
recommended to them; but rather, like the denizens
of most commercial cities, the reverse. They are
* Mr. Benjamin West, president of the Royal Academy, was, I
believe, a native of Pennsylvania, if not of Philadelphia.
[96]

Pennsylvania
great, republicans, and have fallen into the^ same
errors in their ideas ofjndependency as most of the
other colonies have. They are by far the most
enterprising people upon the continent. As they
consist of several nations, and talk several languages,
they are aliens in some respect to Great Britain: nor
can it be expected that they should have the same
filial attachment to her which her own immediate
offspring have. However, they are quiet, and con
cern themselves but little, except about getting
money. The women are exceedingly handsome and
polite; they are naturally sprightly and fond of
pleasure; and, upon the whole, are much more agree
able and accomplished than the men. Since their
intercourse with the English officers, they are greatly
improved; and, without flattery, many of them
would not make bad figures even in the first assem
blies in Europe. Their amusements are chiefly,
dancing in the winter; and, in the summer, forming
parties of pleasure upon the Schuylkill, and in the
country. There is a society of sixteen ladies, and as
many gentlemen, called the fishing company, who
meet once a fortnight upon the Schuylkill. They
have a very pleasant room erected in a romantic
situation upon the banks of that river, where they
generally dine and drink tea. There are several
pretty walks about it, and some wild and rugged
rocks, which, together with the water and fine groves
that adorn the banks, form a most beautiful and
, [97]

Travels Through North America
picturesque scene. There are boats and fishing
tackle of all sorts, and the company divert them
selves with walking, fishing, going up the water,
dancing, singing, conversing, or just as they please.
The ladies wear an uniform, and appear with great
ease and advantage from the neatness and simplic
ity of it. The first and most distinguished people
of the colony are of this society; and it is very ad
vantageous to a stranger to be introduced to it, as
he hereby gets acquainted with the best and most
respectable company in Philadelphia. In the winter,
when there is snow upon the ground, it is usual to
make what they call sleighing parties, or to go upon
it in sledges; but as this is a practice well known in
Europe, it is needless to describe it.
The present state of Pennsylvania is undoubtedly
very flourishing. The country is well cultivated,
and there are not less than 9,000 wagons employed
in it, in different services. Till this war they were
exempt from taxes; and it was not without difficulty
that the Quakers were prevailed upon to grant any
supplies for the defence of the frontiers, though ex
posed to the most horrid cruelties: it was not from
principle, say their enemies, that they refused it,
but from interest; for as they were the first settlers,
they chiefly occupy the interior and lower parts of
the province, and are not exposed to incursions.
At length, however, compelled by clamour and pub
lic discontent, they were obliged to pass a supply
[98]

Pennsylvania
bill for 100,000 1. to raise five and twenty hundred
men; and these they have kept up ever since; they
afterward passed a militia bill, but it was such an
one as answered no good purpose. The Quakers
have much the greatest influence in the assembly,
and are supported there by the Dutch and Germans,
who are as adverse to taxes as themselves. Their
power, however, at present seems rather on the de
cline; which is the reason, as the opposite party
pretend, that they stir upon all occasions as much con
fusion as possible, from that trite maxim in politics,
divide et impera. They have quarrelled with the
proprietors upon several occasions, whether alto
gether justly or not, I will not pretend to say; it is
certain, however, that the determinations at home
have been sometimes in their favour. The late
subjects of their disputes have been chiefly these:
First, Whether the proprietary lands ought to be
taxed ? This has been determined at home in the
affirmative. Secondly, Whether the proprietor ought to have
any choice or approbation of the assessors ?
Thirdly, Whether he ought to give his governor
instructions ? And,
Lastly, Whether the judges of his appointment
ought to be during pleasure, or quamdiu se bene
gesserint ? These three last are still undecided.
Upon the whole, though this province is exceed
ingly flourishing, yet there are certainly great abuses
[99]

Travels Through North America
in it; and such as, if not speedily rectified, will be
productive of bad consequences.
The difference of exchange between bills and the
currency of Pennsylvania, is about 75 per cent.
An occurrence happened to me at Philadelphia,
which, though in itself of a trifling nature, I cannot
but take notice of, as a singular instance of the
strong possession which an idea will sometimes take
of the mind; so as totally to derange it. A lady from
Rhode Island, who lodged in the same house with
myself, had an unfortunate brother in the infirmary,
a lunatic. He was supposed to be nearly well, and
was permitted occasionally to see company. A few
days before I was to leave Philadelphia, this lady
invited me to accompany her in one of her visits to
him; adding, that on her inadvertently mentioning
to him some circumstances relating to me, he had
expressed a most earnest desire to see me. I strongly
objected to the proposal, urging the impropriety of
introducing a stranger, or, indeed, company of any
sort, to a person in that unhappy situation; as it
might possibly agitate his mind, and retard his re
covery. I advised her therefore not to take any
further notice of it; hoping he might forget, or not
mention it any more. The next day she renewed
her application, adding, that her brother was ex
ceedingly disappointed; and entreated me to attend
her, in so pressing a manner, that I could not with
civility refuse it. On entering the cell, a beam of
[100]

Pennsylvania
satisfaction seemed to dart from his eye, not easy to
be expressed or conceived. I took him by the hand;
and, seating myself opposite the bed to which he was
chained, immediately took the lead in conversation,
talking of indifferent matters, such as I thought
could not possibly tend to interest or disturb his
mind. I had not proceeded far when he suddenly
interrupted me; and proposed a question, which at
once convinced me that he was in a very unfit state
to see company. I immediately therefore rose up;
and making an excuse that my engagements that
day would not admit of my entering into so curious
a subject, desired him to reserve it for some future
conversation. He seemed greatly disconcerted; but
being near the door, which stood open, I took my
leave and retired. The next morning I left Phila
delphia; nor did I think any more of this occurrence
till I arrived at Rhode Island, where I was informed
that the chief, if not sole, instances of insanity
shewn by this unhappy young man, were some at
tempts which he had made to kill a clergyman of
the Church of England. That he had been edu
cated to be a teacher amongst the Congregationalists,
but had taken it into his head that he could never
gain heaven, or be happy, but by committing so
heroic and meritorious an action. The very even
ing of his confinement he was prevented from ful
filling his purpose, in the instant when he was raising
up his hand to plunge a knife into the back of a
[101]

Travels Through North America
clergyman, who was reading the funeral service, in
the presence of a large congregation. What his in
tentions were in regard to myself, I cannot pretend
to say; he offered me no violence: but those at Rhode
Island of his acquaintance, to whom I related this
transaction, were fully persuaded that he was far
from being cured of his distemper.*
I left Philadelphia the 6th of July, and travelled
* Since my return to Europe, I have been informed of an in
stance similar to this, which happened at Florence. A gentleman
had taken it into his head that a very large diamond lay buried
under a mountain which stood upon his estate, and was near ruin
ing himself and his family by digging for it. His friends, by some
contrivance or other, got him away to Florence, and placed him
under the care of the late celebrated Dr. Cocchi. He there ap
peared perfectly composed, talked very rationally, and, having
been well educated, afforded great entertainment to the doctor
and his friends, who conversed with him. One day as they were
sitting together, he mentioned to the doctor, that it was very hard
he should be deprived of his liberty, when he was perfectly well;
and that it was only a scheme of his relations to keep him in con
finement, in order that they might enjoy his estate. The doctor,
who had perceived no marks of insanity, began to be staggered;
and promised, in case he should see no reason to alter his senti
ments, to sign a certificate of his being well on such a day, in order
to its being sent to England, that he might have his release. The
day arrived, and the doctor was preparing to perform his promise;
but, whether by design on perceiving something particular in the
looks of his patient, or by accident, I could not learn, he said to the
gentleman: "Now, Sir, I beg from this time that you will think no
" more of this foolish affair of the mountain and diamond." "Not
"think of the diamond," said the madman; "it is for this reason
"that I want my liberty; I know exactly the spot where it lies; and
" I will have it in my possession, before I am a year older."
This story was related to me in Tuscany, and I had no reason to
question the truth of it. [102]

Princeton
in the stage as far as Sheminey-ferry, about seventeen
miles; where I was overtaken by a gentleman and
some ladies of my acquaintance, who were going a
few miles farther upon a party of pleasure. They
were so obliging as to make room for me in one of
their chaises, and we proceeded and dined together
at Bristol, a small town upon the Delaware, op
posite Burlington: in the afternoon we went ten miles
higher up the river, and ferried over to Trenton,
situated in the Jerseys. This is built on the east side
of the Delaware, and contains about a hundred
houses. It has nothing , remarkable; there is a
church, a Quaker and Presbyterian meeting-house,
and barracks for three hundred men. From hence
we went to Sir John Sinclair's, at the Falls of Dela
ware, about a mile above Trenton, a pleasant rural
retirement, where we spent a most agreeable evening.
In the morning, the company returned to Phila
delphia; and, having hired a chaise, I proceeded to
Princeton, twelve miles distant.
At this place, there is a handsome school and
.gollege for the education of ydissenters, Jerected upon
the plan of those in Scotland. "There are about
twenty boys in the grammar-school, and sixty in the
college: at present there are only two professors,
besides the provost; but they intend, as their fund
increases, which is yet very small, and does not ex
ceed 2,000 1. currency, to add to this number. The
building is extremely convenient, airy, and spacious;
[103]

Travels Through North America
and has a chapel and other proper offices. Two
students are in each set of apartments, which con
sists of a large bed-room with a fire-place, and two
studies. There is a small collection of books, a few
instruments, and some natural curiosities. The ex
pense to a student for room-rent, commons, and
tutorage, amounts to 25 1. currency per year. The
provost has a salary of 200 1. currency, and the pro
fessors 50 1. each. The name of the college is Nassau
Jiall. From hence, in the afternoon, I proceeded
to Brunswick, eighteen miles farther, a small town
of about a hundred houses, situated upon Raritan
river, where there are also very neat barracks for
300 men, a church, and a Presbyterian meeting
house. It is celebrated for the number of its beau
ties; and, indeed, at this place and Philadelphia,
were the handsomest women that I saw in America.
At a small distance from the town is a copper-mine
belonging to a Mr. French, (I was told) a pretty
good one. The next day I rode up the river, about
nine miles to the Raritan hills, to see a small cascade,
which falls about fifteen or twenty feet, very roman-
ticly, from between two rocks. The country I passed
through is exceedingly rich and beautiful; and the
banks of the river are covered with gentlemen's
houses. At one of these I had an opportunity of
seeing some good portraits of Vandyck, and several
other small Dutch paintings.
On Monday the 7th, I proceeded to Perth Amboy,
[104]

Passaic Falls
twelve miles, the capital of the East Jerseys, which
is pleasantly situated upon a neck of land, included
between the Raritan and Amboy rivers and a large
open bay. This is generally the place of the gov
ernor's residence; and alternately, here and at Bur
lington, the capital of the West Jerseys, are held the
assemblies, and other public meetings; it contains
about a hundred houses, and has very fine barracks
for 300 men. In the afternoon I travelled sixteen
miles farther to Elizabethtown, leaving Wood-
bridge, a small village where there is a printing-
office, a little on my right hand. Elizabethtown
is built upon a small creek or river that falls into
Newark bay, and contains between two and three
hundred houses. It has a court-house, a church,
and a meeting-house; and barracks also like those
above mentioned.
The next morning I rode out, in order to visit
Passaic Falls, distant about twenty-three miles, and
had a very agreeable tour. After riding six miles
I came to a town called Newark, built in an irregu
lar scattered manner, after the fashion of some of
our villages in England, near two miles in length.
It has a church erected in the Gothic taste with a
spire, the first I had seen in America; and some other
inconsiderable public buildings. Immediately on
my leaving this place, I came upon the banks of
Second, or Passaic river, along which I travelled
seventeen or eighteen miles to the Falls, through a
[105]

Travels Through North America
rich country, interspersed with fine fields and gentle
men's seats.
The Falls are very extraordinary, different from
any I had hitherto met with in America. The river
is about forty yards broad, and runs with a very
swift current, till coming to a deep chasm or cleft,
which crosses the channel, it falls above seventy feet
perpendicular in one entire sheet. One end of the
cleft is closed up, and the water rushes out at the
other with incredible rapidity, in an acute angle to
its former direction; and is received into a large
basin. Hence it takes a winding course through
the rocks, and spreads again into a very consider
able channel. The cleft is from four to twelve feet
broad. The spray formed two beautiful (viz. the
primary and secondary) rainbows, and helped to
make as fine a scene as imagination could conceive.
This extraordinary phenomenon is supposed to have
been produced by an earthquake. The fate of two
Indians is delivered down by tradition, who, ven
turing too near the Falls in a canoe, were carried
down the precipice, and dashed to pieces, Thirty
or forty yards above the great Fall, is another, a
most beautiful one, gliding over some ledges of rocks
each two or three feet perpendicular, which heightens
the scene very much.
From hence I returned, and in my way crossed
over the river to Colonel John Schuyler's copper
[106]

New fersey
mines, where there is a very rich vein of ore, and a
fire-engine erected upon common principles.
After this I went down two miles farther to the
park and gardens of this gentleman's brother, Colonel
Peter Schuyler. In the gardens is a very large
collection of citrons, oranges, limes, lemons, bal
sams of Peru, aloes, pomegranates, and other tropi
cal plants; and in the park I saw several American
and English deer, and three or four elks or moose-
deer. I arrived at Elizabethtown in the evening,
not a little entertained with my expedition, but ex
ceedingly fatigued with the violent heat of the weather
and the many mosquitoes that had infested me.
Before I take leave of the Jerseys, it is necessary
I should give some account of this province. New
Jersey is situated between the 39th and 42d degree
of north latitude, and about seventy-five degrees
west longitude: it is bounded on the east by the
Atlantic, on the west by Pennsylvania, or to speak
more properly the Delaware; on the south by Dela
ware bay; and on the north by Hudson's river and
the province of New York, The climate is nearly
the same as that of Pennsylvania : and the soil, which
is a kind of red slate, is so exceedingly rich, that in
a short time after it has been turned up and exposed
to the air and moisture, it is converted into a species
of marl.*
* Since my return from America, I have met with a gentleman
(Edward Wortley Montagu, Esq.) who had visited the Holy Land.
[107]

Travels Through North America
New Jersey has very great natural advantages of
hills, valleys, rivers, and large bays. The Dela
ware is on one side, and Hudson's river on the other;
besides which it has the Raritan, Passaic, and Amboy
rivers; and Newark and New York bays. It pro
duces vast quantities of grain, besides hemp, flax,
hay, Indian corn, and other articles. It is divided
into eleven counties, and has several small towns,
though not one of consideration. The number of
its inhabitants is supposed to be 70,000: of which,
all males between sixteen and sixty, negroes ex
cepted, are obliged to serve in the militia. There
is JJS -foreign trade, carried on from this province;
for the inhabitants- sell their produce to the merchants
of Philadelphia and New York, and take in return
European goods and other necessaries of life. They
have some trifling manufactures of their own, but
nothing that deserves mentioning.
The government consists of a governor, twelve
counsellors, and a house of representatives of about
twenty-six members, the two former nominated by
the king, the latter elected by the people. Each
branch has ajiegalive; they meet at Amboy and at
Burlington alternately. The governor's salary, with
He described the soil of that country to be similar in almost every
circumstance to this of the Jerseys. He said it appeared to be of
a red slaty substance, sterile, and incapable of producing any thing
worth the cultivation; but that being broken up and exposed to
the air, it became exceedingly mellow, and was fertile in the highest
degree. [108]

New "Jersey
perquisites, is about 800, or 1,000 1. sterling a year;
he is not allowed a house to reside in, but is obliged
to hire one at his own expense. There are several
courts of judicature here, much like those of the
, other provinces. The justices hold quarterly sessions
for petty larcenies, and trifling causes: and the su
preme judge, with two assistant justices, holds, once
a year, a general assize, throughout the province,
of oyer and terminer, and common pleas. He holds
also annually four supreme courts, alternately at
Amboy and Burlington, of king's-bench, common-
pleas, and exchequer. The offices of chancellor and
vice-admiral, are executed_J)y the governor; and the
dernier resort is to his majesty iji council.
" There is properly no established religion in this
province, and the inhabitants are of various per
suasions: the society sends six missionaries, who are
generally well received; and the church gains ground
daily. Their salaries are about the same as in
Pennsylvania.
f Arts and sciences are here, as in the other parts
¦ of America, just dawning. The college will in
time, without doubt, be of considerable advantage,
but being yet in its infancy, it has not had an
opportunity of operating, or effecting any visible
improvement. The New Jersey men, as to character, are like
most country gentlemen, good natured, hospitable,
and of a more liberal turn than their neighbours the
[109]

Travels Through North America
Pennsylvanians. They live altogether upon their
estates, and are literally gentlemen farmers. The
country in its present state can scarcely be called
flourishing; for although it is extremely well culti
vated, thickly seated, and the garden of _North
America, yet, having^ no foreign trade, it is deprived
of those riches and advantages, which it would other-
' wise soon acquire. There have been some attempts
to remedy this defect; but whether from the diffi
culty of diverting a thing out of a channel in which
it has long flowed; or from want of propriety or per
severance, in the measures, I am unable to say; but
the truth is, they have not succeeded. Upon the
whole, however, this province may be called a rich
one: during the present war it has raised considerable
supplies, having seldom had less than 1,000 men in
pay, with a leader (Colonel Schuyler) at their head,
who has done honour to his country by his patriotic
and public spirit. The paper currency of this colony
is at about 70 per cent, discount, but in very good
repute; and preferred by the Pennsylvanians and
New Yorkers to that of their own provinces.
On Wednesday the 9th of July, I crossed over to
Staten Island, in the province of New York; and
travelled upon it about nine miles to the point which
is opposite New York City.
In my way I had an opportunity of seeing the
method of making wampum. This, the reader
probably knows is the current money amongst the
[110]

New Tork
Indians. It is made of the clam shell; a shell, con
sisting within of two colours, purple and white; and
in form not unlike a thick oyster shell. The process
of manufacturing it is very simple. It is first clipped
to a proper size, which is that of a small oblong
parallelopiped, then drilled, and afterward ground
to a round smooth surface, and polished. The
purple wampum is much more valuable than the
white, a very small part of the shell being of that
colour. At the point I embarked for New York; and, after
a pleasant passage over the bay, which is three
leagues wide; and various delightful prospects of
rivers, islands, fields, hills, woods, the Narrows, New
York City, vessels sailing to and fro, and innumerable
porpoises playing upon the surface of the water, in
an evening so serene that the hemisphere was not
ruffled by a single cloud, arrived there about the
setting of the sun.
This city is situated upon the point of a small
island, lying open to the bay on one side, and on the
others included between the North and East rivers;
and commands a fine prospect of water, the Jerseys,
Long Island, Staten Island, and several others,
which lie scattered in the bay. It contains between
two and three thousand houses, and 16 or 17,000
inhabitants, is tolerably well built, and has several
good houses. The streets are paved, and very clean,
but in general narrow; there are two or three, in
fill}

Travels Through North America
deed, which are spacious and airy, particularly the
Broadway. The houses in this street have most
of them a row of trees before them; which form an
agreeable shade, and produce a pretty effect. The
whole length of the town is something more than a
mile; the breadth of it about half an one. The
situation is, I believe, esteemed healthy; but it is
subject to one great inconvenience, which is the
want of fresh water; so that the inhabitants are
obliged to have it brought from springs at some dis
tance out of town. There are several public build
ings, though but few that deserve attention. The
college, when finished, will be exceedingly hand
some; it is to be built on three sides of a quadrangle,
fronting Hudson's or North river, and will be the
most beautifully situated of any college, I believe,
in the world. At present only one wing is finished,
which is of stone, and consists of twenty-four sets
of apartments; each having a large sitting-room,
with a study, and bed-chamber. They are obliged
to make use of some of these apartments for a
master's lodge, library, chapel, hall, etc., but as soon
as the whole shall be completed, there will be proper
apartments for each of these offices. The name of
it is King^s_Cqllege.
There are two churches in New York, the old or
Trinity Church, and the new one, or St. George's
Chapel;* both of them large buildings, the former
* See Note X. [112]

New York
in the Gothic taste, with a spire, the other upon the
model of some of the new churches in London.
Besides these, there are several other places of re
ligious worship; namely, two Low Dutch Calvinist
churches, one High Dutch ditto, one French ditto,
one German Lutheran church, one Presbyterian
meeting-house, one Quaker ditto, one Anabaptists
ditto, one Moravian ditto, and a Jews synagogue.
There is also a very handsome charity-school for
sixty poor boys and girls, a good work-house, bar
racks for a regiment of soldiers, and one of the finest
prisons I have ever seen.* The court or stadt-
house makes no great figure, but it is to be repaired
and beautified. There is a quadrangular fort,"}"
capable of mounting sixty cannon, though at present
there are, I believe, only thirty-two. Within this
is the governor's palace, and underneath it a battery
capable of mounting ninety-four guns, and barracks
for a company or two of soldiers. Upon one of the
islands in the bay is an hospital for sick and wounded
seamen; and, upon another, a pest-house. These
are the most noted public buildings in and about the
city. The province of New York is situated between
the 40th and 45th degree of north latitude, and about
75 degrees west longitude. It lies in a fine climate,
and enjoys a very wholesome air. The soil of most
* See Note XI.
fSee Note XII. [113]

Travels Through North America
parts of it is extremely good, particularly of Long
Island: and it has the advantages of a fine harbour,
and fine rivers. The bay has a communication with
Newark bay, the Sound, Amboy river, and several
others : it receives also Hudson's or North river, one
of the largest in North America, it being navigable
for sloops as far as Albany, above 150 miles: whence,
by the Mohawk, and other rivers, running through
the country of the Six Nations, there is a communi
cation, (excepting a few short carrying places,) with
lake Ontariq; and another with the river _ St. Lau
rence, through the lakes George, Champlain, and
the river Sorel; so that this river seems to merit the
greatest attention. These waters afford various
kinds of fish, black-fish, sea-bass, sheeps-heads,
rock-fish, lobsters, and several others, all excellent
in their kind. The province in its cjiltiyatedjstate
affords grain of all sorts, cattle, hogs, and great
variety of English fruits, particularly the Newtown
pippin. It is divided into ten counties, and has
some few towns, but none of any size, except Albany.
and Schenectady, the former of which is a very con
siderable place. The number of inhabitants amounts
to nearly 100,000; 15 or 20,000 of which are sup
posed to be capable of bearing arms, and of serving
in the militia; but I believe this number is exagger
ated, as a considerable part of the 100,000 are
negroes, which are imported more frequently into
this province than into Pennsylvania. The people
["4]

New Tork
carry on an extensive trade, and there are said to be
cleared out annually from New York,* tons of ship
ping. They export chiefly grain, flour, pork, skins,
furs, pig iron, lumber, and staves. Their manu
factures, indeed, are not extensive, nor by any means
to be compared with those of Pennsylvania; they
make a small quantity of cloth, some linen, hats,
shoes, and other articles for wearing apparel. They
make glass also, and wampum; refine sugars, which
they import from the West Indies; and distill con
siderable quantities of rum. They also, as well as
the Pennsylvanians, till both were restrained by act
of Parliament,^had erected several slitting mills, to
make Jiails, etc. But this is now prohibited, and
they are exceedingly dissatisfied at it. They have
several other branches of manufactures, but, in
general, so inconsiderable, that I shall not take
notice of them: one thing it may be necessary to
mention, I mean the article of shipbuilding; about
which, in different parts of the province, they em
ploy many hands. f
The government of this colony is lodged in the
hands of a governor appointed by the crown; a coun
cil consisting of twelve members, named by the same
authority; and a house of twenty-seven representa
tives, elected by the people: four for the city and
county of New York; two for the city and county
* See Appendix, No. 2.
f See Appendix, No. 2.
[H5]

Travels Through North America
of Albany; two for each of the other eight counties;
one for the borough of West Chester; one for the
township of Schenectady; and one for each of the
three manors of Rensselaerwyck, Livingston, and
Cortlandt. The legislative power is entirely lodged
in their hands, each branch having a negative; ex
cept that, as in the other colonies, all laws must have
the king's approbation, and not interfere with, or be
repugnant to, the laws of Great Britain.
The courts of judicature are similar, I believe, in
every respect, to those in the Jerseys.
The established religion is that of the ChijrcbLjjf
England, there being six churches in this" province
with stipends (to the value of about 50 1. currency)
annexed to each by law. The clergy are twelve in
number, who, exclusive of what they acquire by the
establishment above-mentioned, or by contributions,
receive, as missionaries from the Society for the Prop
agation of the Gospel, 50 1. sterling each. Besides
the religion of the Church of England, there is a
variety of others: dissenters of all denominations,
particularly Presbyterians, abound in great num
bers, and there are some few Roman Catholics.
Arts and sciences have made, no greater progress
here than in the other colonies; but as a subscription
'¦ library* has been lately opened, and every one seems
zealous to promote learning, it may be hoped they
will hereafter advance faster than they have done
* See Note XIII. [116]

New York
hitherto. The college is established upon the same
plan as that in the Jerseys, except that this at New
York professes the principles of the Church of Eng
land. At present the state of (it' is far from being
flourishing, or so good as might be wished. Its fund
does not exceed 10,000 1. currency, and there is a
great scarcity of professors. A commencement was
held, nevertheless, this summer, and seven gentle
men took degrees. There are in it at this time about
twenty- five students.* The president, Dr. Johnson,
is a very worthy and learned man, but rather too
far advanced in life to have the direction of so new
an institution. The late Dr. Bristow left to this
college a fine library, of which they are in daily
expectation. The inhabitants of New York, in their character,
very much resemble the Pennsylvanians: more than
half of them are Dutch, and almost all traders: they
are, therefore, habitually frugal, industrious, and
parsimonious^ Being, however, of different nations,
different languages, and different religions, it is
almost impossible to give them any precise or deter
minate character. The women are handsome and
agreeable; though rather more reserved than the
Philadelphian ladies. Their amusements are much
the same as in Pennsylvania; viz. balls, and sleighing
expeditions in the winter; and, in the summer, going
in parties upon the water, and fishing; or making
* See Note XIV. ["7]

Travels Through North America
excursions into the country. There are several
houses pleasantly situated upon East river, near New
York, where it is common to have turtle feasts : these
happen once or twice in a week. Thirty or forty
gentlemen and ladies meet and dine together, drink
tea in the afternoon, fish and amuse themselves till
evening, and then return home in Italian chaises,
(the fashionable carriage in this and most parts of
America, Virginia excepted, where they chiefly
make use of coaches, and these commonly drawn
by six horses), a gentleman and lady in each chaise.
In the way there is a bridge, about three miles dis
tant from New York, which you always pass over
as you return, called the Kissing Bridge; where it
is a part of the etiquette to salute the lady who has
put herself under your protection.*
The ^present ,state_of -this_provin££ is flourishing:
it has an extensive trade to many parts of the world,
particularly to the West Indies; and has acquired
great riches by the commerce which it has carried
onj under flags of truce, to Cape Francois, and
Monte Christo. The troops, by having made it the
place of their general rendezvous, have also enriched
it very much. However, it is ^b^thengdjsdthitaxes)
and the present public debt amounts to more than
300,000 1. currency. The taxes are laid upon estates
real and personal; and there are duties upon negroes,
and other importations. The provincial troops are
* See Note XV- [118]

Newport
about 2,600 men. The difference of exchange be
tween currency and bills, is from 70 to 80 per cent.
Before I left New York, I took a ride upon Long
Island, the richest spot, in the opinion of the New
Yorkers, of all America; and where they generally
have their villas, or country houses. It is undeni
ably beautiful, and some parts of it are remarkably
fertile, but not equal, I think, to the Jerseys. The
length of it is something more than 100 miles, and
the breadth 25. About 15 or 16 miles from the west
end of it, there opens a large plain between 20 and
30 miles long, and 4 or 5 broad. There is not a
tree growing upon it, and it is asserted that there
never were any. Strangers are always carried to
see this place, as a great curiosity, and the only one
of the kind in North America.
Tuesday, the 5th of August, being indisposed, and
unable to travel any farther by land, I embarked on
board a brigantine for Rhode Island. We made
sail up the Sound with a fair wind, and after two
hours, passed through Hell Gate. It is impossible
to go through this place without recalling to mind
the description of Scylla and Charybdis. The
breadth of the Sound is here half a mile, but th%
channel is very narrow, not exceeding eighty yards:
the water runs with great rapidity, and in different
currents, only one of which will carry a vessel through
with safety; for, on one side, there is a shoal of rocks
just peeping above the water; and, on the other, a
[119]

Travels Through North America
dreadful vortex produced by a rock lying about nine
feet under the surface: if therefore you get into any
but the right current, you are either dashed upon
the shoal, or else sucked into the eddy, whirled round
with incredible rapidity, and at length swallowed up
in the vortex. There are exceeding good pilots to
navigate vessels through this place, notwithstanding
which, they are frequently lost. The proper time
of passing it is at high water. We had pleasant
weather during the passage, which is about seventy
leagues, with beautiful views of Long Island and
Connecticut; and arrived in the harbour at Newport
the 7th of August.
This town is situated upon a small island, about
twelve miles in length, and five or six in breadth,
called Rhode Island, whence the province takes its
name. It is the capital city, and contains 800, or
1,000 houses, chiefly built of wood; and 6 or 7000
inhabitants. There are few buildings in it worth
notice. The courthouse is indeed handsome, and
of brick; and there is a public library, built in the
form of a Grecian temple, by no means inelegant.*
It is of the Doric order, and has a portico in front
with four pillars, supporting a pediment; but the
whole is spoilt by two small wings, which are annexed
to it. The foundation of a very pretty building is
laid for the use of the Free Masons, to serve also
occasionally for an assembly-room; and there is
* See XVI. [120]

Rhode Island
going to be erected a market-house, upon a very
elegant design. The places of public worship, ex
cept the Jews' synagogue, are all of wood; and not
one of them is worth looking at. They consist chiefly
of a church, two Presbyterian meeting-houses, one
Quaker ditto, three Anabaptists ditto, one Moravian
ditto, and the synagogue above mentioned. This
building was designed, as indeed were several of the
others, by a Mr. Harrison, an ingenious English
gentleman who lives here. It will be extremely ele
gant within when completed : but the outside is totally
spoilt by a school, which the Jews would have an
nexed to it for the education of their children.
Upon a small island, before the town, is part of a fine
fortification, designed to consist of a pentagon fort,
and an upper and lower battery. Only two of the
curtains, and a ravelin, are yet finished; and it is
doubted whether the whole will ever be completed.
There are now mounted upon it 26 cannon; but the
works, when complete, will require above 150. At
the entrance of the harbour there is likewise an ex
ceeding good light-house. These are the chief pub
lic buildings.
Three miles from the town is an indifferent wooden
house, built by Dean Berkeley,* when he was in these
parts : the situation is low, but commands a fine view
of the ocean, and of some wild rugged rocks that are
on the left hand of it. They relate here several
* See Note XVII. [121]

Travels in North America
stories of the dean's wild and chimerical notions;
which, as they are characteristic of that extraordinary
man, deserve to be taken notice of: one in particular
I must beg the reader's indulgence to allow me to
repeat to him. The dean had formed the plan of
building a town upon the rocks which I have just
now taken notice of, and of cutting a road through
a sandy beach which lies a little below it, in order
that ships might come up and be sheltered in bad
weather. He "Was so full of this project, as one day
to say to one Smibert, a designer,* whom he had
brought over with him from Europe, on the latter's
asking some ludicrous question concerning the future
importance of the place: "Truly, you have very
"little foresight, for in fifty years time every foot of
"land in this place will be as valuable as the land in
"Cheapside." The dean's house, notwithstanding
his prediction, is at present nothing better than a
farmhouse, and his library is converted into the
dairy: when he left America, he gave it to the^coflgge
at New Haven in Connecticut, who have let it to a
farmer on a long lease : his books he divided between
this college and that in Massachusetts. The dean
is said to have written in this place The Minute
Philosopher. The province of Rhode Island is situated between
the 41st and 42d degree of north latitude; and about
72 or 73 degrees west longitude, in the most healthy
* See Note XVIII. [122]

Rhode Island
climate of North America. The winters are severe,
though not equally so with those of the other prov
inces; but the summers are delightful, especially in
the island; the violent and excessive heats, to which
America is in general subject, being allayed by the
cool and temperate breezes that come from the sea.
The soil is tolerably good, though rather too stony;
its natural produce is maize or Indian corn, with a
variety of shrubs and trees. It produces in particu
lar the button-tree*; the spruce-pine, of the young
twigs of which is made excellent beer; and the pseudo-
acacia, or locust-tree; but none of those fine flower
ing trees, which are such an ornament to the woods
in Carolina and Virginia. It enjoys many advan
tages, has several large rivers, and one of the finest
harbours in the world. Fish are in the greatest
plenty and perfection, particularly the tataag or
black-fish, lobsters, and sea bass. In its cultivated
state, it produces very little, except sheep and horned
cattle, the whole province being laid out into pas
ture or grazing ground. The horses are bony and
strong, and the oxen much the largest in America,
several of them weighing from 16 to 1,800 weight.
The butter and cheese are excellent.
The province of Rhode Island is divided into
counties and townships; of the former there are four
or five, but they are exceedingly small; of the latter
between twenty and thirty; the towns themselves
* See Appendix, No. I. [123]

Travels Through North America
are inconsiderable villages : however, they send mem
bers to the assembly, in the whole about seventy.
The number of inhabitants, with negroes, and In
dians, of which in this province there are several
hundreds, amounts to 35,000. As the province
affords but few commodities for exportation, horses,
provisions, and an inconsiderable quantity of grain,
with spermaceti candles, being the chief articles,
they are obliged to Connecticut, and the neighbour
ing colonies, for most of their traffic ^and by their
means they carry on an extensive trade.' Their mode
?of commerce is this: they trade to Great Britain,
Holland, Africa, the West Indies, and the neigh-
Ibouring colonies; from each of which places they
[import the following articles: from Great Britain,
dry goods; from Holland, money; from Africa,jlavesj
from the West Indies, sugars, coffee, and molasses;
and from the neighbouring colonies, lumber and
; provisjons: and with what they purchase in one place
they make their returns in another. Thus with the
money they get in Holland, they pay their merchants
in London; the sugars they procure in the West
Indies, they carry to Holland; the slaves they fetch
from Africa they send to the West Indies, together
with lumber and provisions, which they get from the
neighbouring colonies; the rum that they distill they
export to Africa; and with the dry goods, which they
purchase in London, they traffic in the neighbour
ing colonies. By this kind of circular commerce
[124]

Rhode Island
they subsist and grow rich. They have besides these
some other inconsiderable branches of trade, but
nothing worth mentioning. They have very few
manufactures; they distill rum and make sper
maceti candles; but in the article of dry goods,
they are far behind the people of New York and
Pennsylvania. The government of this province is entirely demo
cratical, every officer, except the collector of the cus
toms, being appointed, I believe, either immediately
by the people, or by the general assembly. The
people choose annually a governor,, lieutenant-gov
ernor, and ten assistants, which constitute an upper
house. \ The representatives, or lower house, are
elected every half year. These jointly have the
appointment of all other public officers, (except the
recorder, treasurer, and attorney-general, which are
appointed likewise annually by the people) both
military and civil; are invested with the powers of
legislation, of regulating the militia, and of perform
ing all other acts of government. The governor has
no_negative, but votes with the assistants, and in
case of an equality has a casting voice. The assem
bly, or two houses united, are obliged to sit imme
diately after each election; at Newport in the summer,
and in the winter alternately at Providence and South
Kingston in Narraganset: they adjourn themselves,
but may be called together, notwithstanding such
adjournment, upon any urgent occasion by the gov-
[125]

Travels Through North America
ernor. No assistant, or representative, is allowed
any salary or pay for his attendance or service.]
There are several courts of judicature. The as
sembly nominates annually so many justices for each
township, as are deemed necessary. These have
power to join people in matrimony, and to exercise
other acts of authority usually granted to this order
of magistrates. Any two of them may hear causes
concerning small debts and trespasses; and three
may try criminals for thefts, not exceeding ten pounds
currency. Appeals in civil causes are allowed to
the inferior courts of common-pleas; in criminal
ones to the sessions of the peace; and in these the
determinations are final. The sessions are held in
each county twice every year by five or more justices;
they adjudge all matters relating to the preservation
of the peace, and the punishment of criminals, ex
cept in cases of death. Appeals are allowed from
this court, in all causes that have originated in it, to
the superior one. The inferior courts of common-
pleas sit twice every year in each county, and are held
by three or more justices. They take cognizance of
all civil causes whatsoever, triable at common law;
and if any one thinks himself aggrieved here, he may
appeal to the superior one; which is held also annu
ally twice in each county, by three judges, and which
exercises all the authority of a court of king's-bench,
common-pleas, and exchequer. The dernier resort
is to the king in council, but this only in cases of
[126]

Rhode Island
300 1. value, new tenor. The people have the power
of pardoning criminals, except in cases of piracy,
murder, or high treason; and then it is doubted
whether they can even reprieve.
There is no -established form of religion here; but
Church of England men, independents, Quakers, Ana
baptists, Moravians, Jews, and all other sects what
soever, have liberty to exercise their several profes
sions. The Society for the Propagation of the Gos
pel sends only four missionaries.
Arts and sciences are almost unknown, except to
some few individuals; and there are no public semi
naries of learning; nor do the Rhode Islanders in
general seem to regret the want of them. The in
stitution of a library society, which has lately taken
place, may possibly in time produce a change in these
matters. The character of the Rhode Islanders is by no
means engaging, or amiable, a circumstance prin
cipally owing to their form of government. Their
men in power, from the highest to the lowest, are
dependent upon the people, and frequently act with-
outjliat strict regard to probity and honour, which
ought invariably to influence and direct mankind.
The private people are cunning, deceitful, and self
ish: they live almost entirely by unfair and illicit
trading.^ Their magistrates are partial and corrupt:
and it is folly to expect justice in their courts of judi
cature; for he who has the greatest influence is
[127]

Travels Through North America
generally found to have the fairest cause.* Were
the governor to interpose his authority, were he to
refuse to grant flags of truce,f or not to wink at
abuses, he would at the expiration of the year be ex
cluded from his office, the only thing perhaps which
he has to subsist upon. Were the judges to act with
impartiality, and to decide a cause to the prejudice
or disadvantage of any great or popular leader, they
would probably never be re-elected; indeed, they are
incapable in general of determining the merits of a
suit, for they are exceedingly illiterate, and, where
they have nothing to make them partial, are man
aged almost entirely by the lawyers. In short, to
give an idea of the wretched state of this colony, it
has happened more than once that a person has had
sufficient influence to procure a fresh emission of
paper-money, solely to defraud his creditors: for
having perhaps borrowed a considerable sum of
* The form of their judical oath, or affirmation (says Douglas,
in his Summary), does not invoke the judgments of the omniscient
God, who sees in secret, but only upon peril of the penalty of per
jury. This does not seem (adds the same author in a note) to be
a sacred or solemn oath, and may be illustrated by the story of
two profligate thieves; one of them had stolen something, and told
his friend of it: well, says his friend, but did any body see you?
No: then, says his friend, it is yours as much as if you had bought
it with your money. Vol. ii. p. 95.
f It was usual during the late war for several governors in North
America, on receiving a pecuniary consideration, to grant to the
merchants flags of truce, by which they were licensed to go to the
-French West Indian Islands, in order to exchange prisoners. The
real scope and design of the voyage was, to carry on a prohibited
[128]

Rhode Island
money, when the difference of exchange has been
1,200 per cent, he has afterward, under sanction of
the law, repaid only the same nominal sum in new
currency, when the difference has amounted per
haps to 2,500 per cent. Such, alas! is the situation
and character of this colony. It is needless, after
this, to observe that it is in a very declining state,
[for it is impossible that it should prosper under such
abuses. Its West Indian trade has diminished,
owing indeed, in some measure, to the other colonies
having entered more largely into this lucrative branch
of commerce : it has lost during the war, by the enemy,
above 150 vessels: its own privateers, and it has gen
erally had a great many, have had very ill success:
having kept up a regiment of provincial troops, it has
also been loaded with taxes, and many of the people
have been oppressed by the mode of collecting them:
for, the assembly having determined the quota of
each township, the inhabitants have been assessed
trade with the French, and to supply them with stores and pro
visions. Two or three prisoners were sufficient to cover the de
sign; and in order to have a store in readiness, they seldom carried
more. By this abuse both governors and merchants acquired
great riches. Very plausible arguments indeed might be adduced
against prohibiting, or even restraining a commerce of that nature:
but as the wisdom of government did think fit, and probably with
better reason, to forbid it, nothing could excuse the corrupt and
mercenary spirit of those governors, who presumed to connive at
and encourage it. The Honourable Francis Fauquier, lieutenant-
governor of Virginia, who, amongst some few others, never could
be prevailed upon to countenance it, refused at one time an offer
of near 200 1. for the grant of a permit to make a single voyage.
[129]

Travels Through North America
by the town council*, consisting of the assistants re
siding there, the justices of the town, and a few free
holders elected annually by the freemen; and these
have been generally partial in their assessments, as
must necessarily happen under a combination of
such circumstances. After having said so much to
the disadvantage of this colony, I should be guilty
of injustice and ingratitude, were I not to declare
that there are many worthy gentlemen in it, who see
the misfortunes of their country, and lament them;
who are sensible that they _arise_ from the wretched
nature of the government, and wish to have it altered;
who are courteous and polite, kind and hospitable
to strangers, and capable of great acts of generosity
and goodness, as I myself experienced during a very
severe fit of sickness which I lay under at this place.
The paper-money here is as bad as it is possible
to be, the difference of exchange being at least 2,500
\ per cent.
The 4th of September I took leave of Newport,
and having crossed over the river at Bristol Ferry,
where it is about a mile broad, and two other incon-
* Each township is managed by a town council, consisting of
the assistants who reside in the town, the justices of the town, and
six freeholders chosen annually by the freemen of the town; the
major part of them is a quorum, with full power to manage the
affairs and interest of the town to which they respectively belong,
to grant licenses to public houses; and are a probate office for
proving wills, and granting administration, with appeal to gov
ernor and council, as supreme ordinary. Douglas's Summary,
vol. ii. p. 85. [i3°]

Boston
siderable ferries, I arrived in the evening at Prov
idence. This is the chief town of what was formerly
called Providence Plantation in Narraganset, and
is at present the second considerable town in the
province of Rhode Island. It is situated upon a
pretty large river, and is distant from Newport about
thirty miles. In the morning I set out for Boston,
and arrived there about sunset, after a journey of
five and forty miles. The country which I travelled
over is chiefly grazing ground, laid out into neat en
closures, surrounded with stone walls, and rows of
pseudo acacia or locust-trees, which are said with
their leaves to manure and fertilize the land. I passed
over a beautiful fall of water in Pawtucket river, upon
a bridge, which is built directly over it. The fall
is about twenty feet high, through several chasms
in a rock, which runs diametrically across it, and
serves as a dam to hold up the water. There are
two or three mills, which have been erected for the
advantage of having the different spouts or streams
of water conducted to their respective wheels. These
have taken very much from the beauty of the scene,
which would otherwise be transcendantly elegant;
for the fall, though not large or upon a great scale,
is by far the most romantic and picturesque of any
that I met with in my tour.
During the course of my ride from Newport, I
observed prodigious flights of wild pigeons*: they
* See Appendix, No. I. [i3i]

Travels Through North America
directed their course to the southward, and the
hemisphere was never entirely free from them. They
are birds of passage, of beautiful plumage, and are
excellent eating. The accounts given of their num
bers are almost incredible; yet they are so well at
tested, and the opportunities of proving the truth of
them are so frequent, as not to admit of their be
ing called in question. Towards evening they gen
erally settle upon trees, and sit one upon another
in such crowds, as sometimes to break down the
largest branches. The inhabitants at such times
go out with long poles, and knock numbers of them
on the head upon the roost; for they are either so
fatigued by their flight, or terrified by the obscurity
of the night, that they will not move, or take wing,
without some great and uncommon noise to alarm
them. I met with scarcely any other food at the
ordinaries where I put up: and during their flight,
the common people subsist almost wholly upon them.
>-J Boston, the metropolis of Massachusetts Bay, in
j New England, is one of the largest and most flourish-
ting towns in North America. It is situated upon a
peninsula, or rather an island joined to the continent
by an isthmus or narrow neck of land half a mile in
length, at the bottom of a spacious and noble har
bour, defended from the sea by a number of small
islands. The length of it is nearly two miles, and
the breadth of it half a one; and it is supposed to
contain 3,000 houses, and 18 or 20,000 inhabitants.

Boston
At the entrance of the harbour stands a very good
light-house; and upon an island, about a league
from the town, a considerable castle, mounting near
150 cannon: there are several good batteries about
it, and one in particular very strong, built by Mr.
Shirley.* There are also two batteries in the town,
for 16 or 20 guns each; but they are not, I believe,
of any force. The buildings in Boston are in gen
eral good; the streets are open and spacious, and
well paved; and the whole has much the air of some
of our best country towns in England. The country
round about it is exceedingly delightful; and from
a hill, which stands close to the town, where there
is a beacon to alarm the neighbourhood in case of
any surprise, is one of the finest prospects, the most
beautifully variegated, and richly grouped, of any
without exception that I have ever seen.
The chief public buildings are, three churches;
thirteen or fourteen meeting-houses; the governor's
palace; the court-house, or exchange; Faneuil Hall;
a linen manufacturing-house; a work-house; a bride
well; a public granary; and a very fine wharf, at
least half a mile long, undertaken at the expense of a
number of private gentlemen, for the advantage of
unloading and loading vessels. Most of these build
ings are handsome: the church, called King's Chapel,
is exceedingly elegant; and fitted up in the Corin
thian taste. There is also an elegant private con-
* See Note XIX. [i33]

Travels Through North America
cert-room highly finished in the Ionic manner. I
had reason to think the situation of Boston un
healthy, at least in this season of the year, as there
were frequent funerals every night during my stay
there. The situation of the province of Massachusetts
Bay, including the district of Plymouth,* is between
the 41st and 43d degree of north latitude, and about
72 degrees west longitude. The climate, soil,
natural produce, and improved state of it, are much
the same as of Rhode Island. It is divided into
counties, and townships ;f and each township, if it
contains forty freeholders, \ has a right to send a
member to the assembly;^} the present number of
* Sagadahoc and the Maine, very large territories, lying north
of New Hampshire, belong also to the province of Massachusetts
Bay; they were annexed to it by the new charter of 1691. The
Maine forms one county called the co_unty_of York, and sends three
members to the council; Sagadahoc, which is annexed to it, sends
one. "("Townships are generally six miles square, and divided into
sixty-three equal lots, viz. one lot for the first settled minister as
inheritance, one lot for the ministry or glebe-lands, one lot for the
benefit of a school; the other sixty lots to sixty persons or families,
who, within five years from the grant, are to erect a dwelling-house,
and clear seven acres of land, fit for mowing or ploughing, etc.
% By the charter, every freeholder should possess 40 s. freehold,
or 50 1. personal estate; but I believe this article has not been
strictly adhered to.
1| Every town, containing forty freeholders, has a "right" to
send a member to the assembly, but is not absolutely "obliged"
to do so, unless it contains eighty freeholders.
[134]

Massachusetts Bay
representatives amounts to between 130 and 140,
of which Boston sends four.
The number of souls in this province is supposed
to amount to 200,000; and 40,000 of them to be ca
pable of bearing arms. They carry on a consider
able traffic, chiefly in the manner of the Rhode
Islanders; but have some material articles for ex
portation, which the Rhode Islanders have not, ex
cept in a very trifling degree: these are salt fish, and
vessels. Of the latter they build annually a great
number, and send them, laden with cargoes of the
former,, to Great Britain, where they sell them.
They clear out from Boston, Salem, Marblehead,
and the different ports in this province, yearly, about
* ton of shipping. Exclusive of these articles,
their manufactures are notUarge; those of spirits, fish-
oil, and iron, are, I believe, the most considerable.
They fabricate beaver-hats, which they sell for a
moidore apiece ; and some years ago they erected a
manufactory, with a design to encourage the Irish
settlers to make linens; but at the breaking out of
the war the price of labour was enhanced so much,
that it was impossible to carry it on. Like the rest
of the colonies they also endeavour to make woollens;
but they have not yet been able to bring them to any
degree of perfection; indeed it is an article in which
I think they will not easily succeed; for the American
wool is not only coarse, but in comparison of the
* See Appendix, No. 2. [135]

Travels Through North America
English, exceedingly short. Upon the best inquiry
I could make, I was not able to discover that any
one had ever seen a staple of American wool longer
than seven inches; whereas in the counties of Lin
coln and Leicester, they are frequently twenty-two*
inches long. In the southern colonies, at least in
those parts where I travelled, there is scarcely any
herbage ; f and whether it is owing to this, or to the
excessive heats, I am ignorant, the wool is short and
hairy. The northern colonies have indeed greater
plenty of herbage, but are for some months covered
with snow; and without a degree of attention and
care in housing the sheep, and guarding them against
accidents, and wild beasts, which would not easily
be compensated, it would be very difficult to in
crease their numbers to any great amount. The
Americans seem conscious of this fact, and, not
withstanding a very severe prohibition, contrive to
procure from England every year a considerable
number of rams, in order to improve and multiply
the breed. What the lands beyond the Allegheny
and upon the banks of the Ohio may be, I do not
know; they are said to be very rich: but the climate
I believe is not less severe; and I think, upon col
lating different accounts, that the severity of heat
and cold is not much abated by cultivation. The
* The common average length, I am told, is about sixteen inches.
f I speak of the country in general; in particular spots, as at
Greenway Court, the herbage is very fine and luxuriant.
[136]

Massachusetts Bay
air becomes dryer and more wholesome, in propor
tion as the woods are cut down, and the ground is
cleared and cultivated; but the cold is not less pierc
ing, nor the snow less frequent. I think therefore
upon the whole, that America, though it may with
particular care and attention, produce small quan
tities of tolerably good wool, will yet never be able
to produce it in such plenty and of such a quality
as to serve for the necessary consumption of its
inhabitants. The government of this province is lodged in the
hands of a governor or lieutenant-governor, ap
pointed by the king; a council of twenty-eight per
sons, chosen annually, with the governor's appro
bation, by the general assembly;* and a house of
representatives f annually elected by the freeholders.
The governor commissions all the militia, and other
military officers; and, with consent of the council,
also nominates and appoints all civil officers, except
those that are concerned in the revenue. He calls
and adjourns the assembly, and has in every respect a
very extensive authority. His salary, with per-
* They are chosen by the new representatives, and the last year's
counsellor; so that each counsellor has a vote in his own re-election.
The governor has a negative to every counsellor's election, with
out being obliged to assign a reason.
f Each representative must be resident in the township for which
he is elected; he must also have a plurality of votes respecting the
number of voters, and not in comparison only of the other candi
dates; he is paid for his attendance and services, and subject to a
fine if he neglects them. [137]

Travels Through North America
quisites, amounts to about 1,300 1. sterling per year.
The governor and council together have the probate
of wills, and the power of granting administrations
and divorces.
There are several courts of judicature. All actions
under twenty shillings sterling are cognizable by a
justice of peace, from whose determination there lies
an appeal to the inferior county court of common-
pleas; and from hence to the superior provincial
court in its circuits, which is also a court of oyer and
terminer in criminal affairs, and is held by a chief
justice and some assistant judges. In this court, if
the determination is not satisfactory, a rehearing of
the cause may be had with a different jury;* and
even, by petition to the general assembly, a second
rehearing: the dernier resort is to his majesty in
council, but this only in cases of 300 1. sterling value:
and the appeal must be made within fourteen days
after judgment.
The established religion here, as in all the other
provinces of New England, is that of the Congre-
gatjonalists; a religion, different in some trifling
articles, though none very material, from theJPi£s-
bjterian. There are, besides these however, great
numbers of people of different persuasions, particu
larly of the religion of the Church of England, which
seems to gain ground, and to become more fashion-
* Juries are, I believe, appointed partly by lot, and partly by
rotation. [138]

Massachusetts Bay
able every day. A church has been lately erected
at Cambridge, within sight of the college; which has
greatly~alarmed the Congregationalists, who con
sider it as the most fatal stroke that could possibly
have been levelled at their religion. The building
is elegant, and the minister of it (the Reverend Mr.
Apthorpe,) is a young man of shining parts, great
learning, and pure and engaging manners.*
Arts and Sciences seem to have made a greater
progress here, than in any other part of America.
Harvard College has been founded above a hundred
years; and although it is not upon a perfect plan,
yet it has produced a very good effect. The arts are
undeniably forwarder in Massachusetts Bay than
either in Pennsylvania or New York. The public
buildings are more elegant; and there is a more gen
eral turn for music, painting, and the belles lettres.
The character of the inhabitants of this province
is much improved, in comparison of what it was:
but Puritanism and a spirit of persecution is not yet
totally extinguished. \ The gentry of both sexes are
hospitable, and good-natured; there is an air of
civility in their behaviour, but it is constrained by
formality and preciseness. \ Even the women, though
easiness of carriage is peculiarly characteristic of
* This gentleman, I have heard, afterward met with so much
opposition and persecution from the Congregationalists, that he
was obliged to resign his cure, to quit the colony, and has since
lived in England upon a living, (I believe in Surrey) which was
given him by the late Archbishop Seeker.
[i39]

Travels Through North America
their nature, appear here with more_^rifftiess and
reserve than in the other colonies, i They are formed
with symmetry, are handsome, and have fair and
delicate complections; but are said universally, and
even proverbially, to have very indifferent teeth.
The lower class of the people are more in the ex
treme of this character; and, which is constantly
mentioned as singularly peculiar to them, are im
pertinently curious and inquisitive. I was told of a
gentleman of Philadelphia, who, in travelling through
the provinces of New England, having met with
many impertinences from this extraordinary turn
of character, at length fell upon an expedient almost
as extraordinary, to get rid of them. He had ob
served, when he went into an ordinary,* that every
individual of the family had a question or two to
propose to him relative to his history; and that, till
each was satisfied, and they had conferred and com
pared together their information, there was no pos
sibility of procuring any refreshment. He, there
fore, the moment he went into any of these places,
inquired for the master, the mistress, the sons, the
daughters, the men-servants and the maid-servants;
and having assembled them all together, he began
in this manner: "Worthy people, I am B. F.f of
"Philadelphia, by trade a  , and a bachelor;
"I have some relations at Boston, to whom I am
* Inns are so called in America.
f Benjamin Franklin. [140]

Massachusetts Bay
"going to make a visit: my stay will be short, and
"I shall then return and follow my business, as a
"prudent man ought to do. This is all I know of
"myself, and all I can possibly inform you of; I beg
"therefore that you will have pity upon me and my
"horse, and give us both some refreshment."
Singular situations and manners will be produc
tive of singular customs; but frequently such as upon
slight examination may appear to be the effects of
mere grossness of character, will, upon deeper re
search, be found to proceed from simplicity and in
nocence. A very extraordinary method of court
ship, which is sometimes practised amongst the lower
people of this province, and is called Tarrying, has
given occasion to this reflection.* When a man is
enamoured of a young woman, and wishes to marry
her, he proposes the affair to her parents, (without
whose consent no marriage in this colony can take
place); if they have no objection, they allow him to
tarry with her one night, in order to make his court
to her. At their usual time the old couple retire to
bed, leaving the young ones to settle matters as they
can, who, after having sat up as long as they think
proper, get into bed together also, but without pull
ing off their under-garments, in order to prevent
scandal. If the parties agree, it is all very well; the
banns are published, and they are married without
delay. If not, they part, and possibly never see
* See Note XX. [I4i]

Travels Through North America
each other again; unless, which is an accident that
seldom happens, the forsaken fair-one prove preg
nant, and then the man is obliged to marry her, under
pain of excommunication.*
The province of Massachusetts Bay has been for
some years past, I believe, gather onjhe> j^Iine,.?
Its inhabitants have lost several branches of trade,
which they are not likely to recover again. They
formerly supplied, not only Connecticut, but other
parts of the continent, with dry goods, and received
specie in return: but since the introduction of paper
currency they have been deprived of great part of
this commerce. Their ship trade is considerably
decreased, owing to their not having been so careful
in the construction of vessels as formerly: their
* A gentleman some time ago travelling upon the frontiers of
Virginia, where there are few settlements, was obliged to take up
his quarters one evening at a miserable plantation; where, ex
clusive of a negro or two, the family consisted of a man and his
wife, and one daughter about sixteen years of age. Being fatigued,
he presently desired them to shew him where he was to sleep;
accordingly they pointed to a bed in a corner of the room where
they were sitting. The gentleman was a little embarrassed but,
being excessively weary, he retired, half undressed himself, and
got into bed. After some time the old gentlewoman came to bed
to him, after her the old gentleman, and last of all the young lady.
This, in a country excluded from all civilized society, could only
proceed from simplicity and innocence: and indeed it is a general
and true observation that forms and observances become necessary
and are attended to, in proportion as manners become corrupt,
and it is found expedient to guard against vice, and that design
and duplicity of character, which, from the nature of things, will
ever prevail in large and cultivated societies.
[142]

Massachusetts Bay
fisheries too have not been equally successful: they
have had also a considerable number of provincial
troops* in pay during the course of the present war,
and have been burthened with heavy taxes. These
have been laid upon estates, real and personal.
Some merchants in Boston, I have been credibly
informed, have paid near 400 1. sterling annually.
Assessments are made by particular officers, who,
with the selectmen, constables, overseers, and sev
eral others, are elected annually by the freemen,
for the direction and management of each particular
township. There is less paper money in this colony, than in
any other of America : the current coin is chiefly gold
and silver: and Boston is the only place, I believe,
where there ever was a mint to coin money.
I was told of a very impolitic law in force in this
province, which forbids any master, or commander
of a vessel, to bring strangers into the colony, with
out giving security that they shall not become charge
able to it.
However, notwithstanding what has been said,
J Massachusetts Bay is a rich, populous, and well-cul-
\tivated province.
I cannot take leave of it without relating a very
extraordinary story, communicated to me by persons
of undoubted credit, as it further tends to illustrate
the character and manners of its inhabitants.
* Between six and seven thousand, I believe.
[H3]

Travels Through North America
Some years ago a commander of one of his
majesty's ships of war being stationed at this place,
had orders to cruise from time to time, in order to
protect our trade, and distress the enemy. It hap
pened unluckily that he returned from one of his
cruises on a Sunday; and as he had left his lady at
Boston, the moment she heard of the ship's arrival,
she hasted down to the water's side, in order to re
ceive him. The captain, on landing, embraced her
with tenderness and affection: this, as there were
several spectators by, gave great offence, and was
considered as an act of indecency, and a flagrant
profanation of the Sabbath. The next day, there
fore, he was summoned before the magistrates, who
with many severe rebukes and pious exhortations,
ordered him to be publicly whipped. The captain
stifled his indignation and resentment as much as
possible; and as the punishment, from the frequency
of it, was not attended with any great degree of
ignominy or disgrace, he mixed with the best com
pany, was well received by them, and they were ap
parently good friends. At length the time of the
station expired, and he was recalled : he went, there
fore, with seeming concern, to take leave of his
worthy friends; and that they might spend one more
happy day together before their final separation,
he invited the principal magistrates and selectmen
to dine with him on board his ship, upon the day of
his departure. They accepted the invitation, and
[i44]

Massachusetts Bay
nothing could be more joyous and convivial than the
entertainment which he gave them. At length the
fatal moment arrived that was to separate them:
the anchor was apeak, the sails were unfurled, and
nothing was wanting but the signal to get under way.*
The captain, after taking an affectionate leave of his
worthy friends, accompanied them upon deck, where
the boatswain and crew were in readiness to receive
them. He there thanked them afresh for the civili
ties they had shown him, of which, he said, he should
retain an eternal remembrance, and to which he
wished it had been in his power to have made a more
adequate return. One point of civility only re
mained to be adjusted between them, which, as it
was in his power, so he meant most fully to recom
pense to them. He then reminded them of what
had passed, and ordering the crew to pinion them,
had them brought one by one to the gang-way, where
the boatswain stripped off their shirts, and with a
cat of nine tails laid on the back of each forty stripes
save one. They were then, amidst the shouts and
acclamations of the crew, shoved into their boats:
and the captain immediately getting under way,
sailed for England. f
* This is usually written, "under weigh": but I am extremely
doubtful of the propriety of the phrase.
t This story has lately appeared in one of the English news
papers, told with much humour, and with some difference respect
ing the occasion and mode of the captain's punishment. The
[145]

Travels Through North America
The I2th of October I embarked on board his
majesty's ship the Winchester, of fifty guns, Captain
Hale commander, for the river Piscataqua, in New
Hampshire; and we came to an anchor there the
next day, after a pleasant passage.
The capital of this province is Portsmouth, which
is situated upon the river: it is an inconsiderable
place, and chiefly built of wood. Very little can be
said of the province of New Hampshire, materially
different from what has been said of Massachusets
Bay. The climate, produce, trade, government, re
ligion, and manners of it are much, the same.
There are supposed to be about 40,000 inhabitants,
8,000 militia, and 6 or 700 provincial troops. There
are only two missionaries of the Church of England,
and one of these has lately applied to be removed to
Rhode Island. The chief articles fbx exportation
are fish, cattle, ships, pf which they annually build
near 200*, and masts for the royal navy. These are
made of the white pine, and are, I believe, the finest
in the world, many of them being forty yards long,
and as many inches in diameter. They never cut
them down but in times of deep snow, as it would be
impossible in any other season to get them down to
the river. When the trees are fallen, they yoke
author cannot take upon himself to say which account may be
most exact, but he has chosen to abide by that which he heard at
Boston. They either of them serve to characterize the people,
and to answer the author's purpose in relating it.
* See Appendix, No. 2.
[H6]

New Hampshire
seventy or eighty pair of oxen, and drag them along
the snow. It is exceedingly difficult to put them
first into motion, which they call raising them; and
when they have once effected this, they never stop
upon any account whatsoever till they arrive at the
water's side. Frequently some of the oxen are taken
ill, upon which they immediately cut them out of the
gears; and are sometimes obliged, I was told, to de
stroy five or six pair of them. The forests, where
these masts grow, are reserved to the crown, which
appoints a surveyor of them, who is commonly the
governor of this province. This is not the only ex
pedient employed by government for the preserva
tion of such trees as may be of use for the royal navy;
for there is an act of parliament, I believe, which
prohibits, under pain of certain fines and penalties,
the cutting down, or destroying of any white pine-
tree, of specified dimensions, not growing within the
boundaries of any township, without his majesty's
license, in any of the provinces of New England,
New York, or New Jersey: a restriction absolutely
necessary, whether considered as securing a pro
vision for the navy, or as a check upon that very
destructive practice, taken from the Indians, of fire-
hunting. It used to be the custom for large com
panies to go into the woods in the winter, and to set
fire to the brush and underwood, in a circle of several
miles. This circle gradually contracting itself, the
deer, and other wild animals, enclosed, naturally
[H7]

Travels Through North America
retired from the flames, till at length they got herded
together in a very small compass. Then, blinded
and suffocated by the smoke, and scorched by the
fire, which every moment came nearer to them, they
forced their way, under the greatest trepidation and
dismay, through flames; and were no sooner got
into the open daylight again, than they were shot
by the hunters, who stood without, and were in readi
ness to fire upon them. The trees included within
the circle, although not absolutely burnt down, were
so dried and injured, that they never vegetated any
more: and as the fire did not only contract itself in
wardly, but dilated also outwardly, and sometimes
continued burning for several weeks, till rain, or
some accidental circumstance put it out; it is in
credible what injury and devastation it occasioned in
the woods. I was once a spectator of a similar fire in
Virginia, which had happened through accident.
Nothing could be more awful and tremendous than
the sight. It was of great extent, and burned several
weeks before the inhabitants could subdue it. They
effected it at last by cutting away the underwood, in
wide and long avenues, to leeward of the fire, by
which it was deprived of the means of communicat
ing or spreading any farther. In Virginia (and, I
believe, the other colonies), there is an express act
of assembly, passed in the 12th year of his late
majesty, to forbid this practice.
"-— The province of New Hampshire, I was informed
[148]

General Reflections
\ at Portsmouth, has grown rich during the war, by
the loss_of its own vessels, they having been com
monly msjired^above. value.
The currency here is extremely bad, not better
than that in Rhode Island.
Having travelled over so large a tract of this vast
continent, before I bid a final farewell to it, I must
beg the reader's indulgence, while I stop for a
moment, and as it were from the top of a high emi
nence, take one general retrospective look at the
whole. An idea, ; strange as it is visionary, has
entered into the minds of the generality of mankind,
that empire is travelling westward; and every one is
looking forward with eager and impatient expecta
tion to that destined moment when America is to
give law to the rest of the world. \ But if ever an idea
was illusory and fallacious, I am fully persuaded,
that this will be so.
America is formed for happiness, but not for em
pire: in a course of 1,200 miles I did not see a single
object that solicited charity; but I saw insuperable
causes of weakness, which will necessarily prevent
its being a potent state.
Our colonies may be distinguished into the south
ern and northern, separated from each other by the
Susquehanna and that imaginary line which divides
Maryland from Pennsylvania.
The southern colonies have so many inherent
[149]

Travels Through North America
causes of. weakness, that they never can possess any
real strength. The climate operates very power
fully upon them, and renders them indolent, in
active, and unenterprising; this is visible in every
line of their character. I myself have been a spec
tator, and it is not an uncommon sight, of a man in
the vigour of life, lying upon a couch, and a female
slave standing over him, wafting off the flies, and
fanning him, while he took his repose.
The southern colonies (Maryland, which is the
smallest and most inconsiderable, alone excepted)
will never be thickly seated : for as they are not con
fined within determinate limits, but extend to the
westward indefinitely, men, sooner than apply to
laborious occupations, occupations militating with
their dispositions, and generally considered too as
the inheritance and badge of slavery, will gradually
retirejivestward, and settle upon fresh lands, which
are said also to be more fertile; where, by the ser
vitude of a negro or two, they may enjoy all the
satisfaction of an easy and indolent independency:
hence the lands upon the coast will of course remain
thin of inhabitants.
The mode of cultivation by slavery, is another in
surmountable cause of weakness. \ The number of
negroes in the southern colonies is upon the whole
nearly equal, if not superior, to that of the white men;
and they propagate and increase even faster. 1 Their
condition is truly pitiable; their labour excessively
[15°]

General Reflections
hard, their diet poor and scanty, their treatment cruel
and oppresive: they cannot therefore but be a sub
ject of terror to those who so inhumanly tyrannize
over them.
The Lndians^near the frontiers are a still further
formidable cause of subjection. The southern In
dians are numerous, and are governed by a sounder
policy than formerly: experience has taught them
wisdom. They never make war with the colonists
without carrying terror and devastation along with
them. They sometimes break up entire counties
together. Such is the state of the southern colonies.
The northern colonies are of stronger stamina,
but they have other difficulties and disadvantages to
struggle with, not less arduous, or more easy to be
surmounted, than what have been already mentioned.
Their limits being defined, they will undoubtedly
become exceedingly populous: for though men will
readily retire back towards the frontiers of their own
colony, yet they will not so easily be induced to settle
beyond them, where different laws and polities pre
vail; and where, in short, they are a djffer§Qt.Jl£Qgle :
but in proportion to want of territory, if we consider
the proposition in a general and abstract light, will
be want of power. > But the northern colonies have
still more positive and real disadvantages to contend
with. They are composed of people of different
nations, different manners, different religions, and
different languages. They have a mutual jealousy
[151]

Travels Through North America
of each other, fomented by considerations of interest,
power, and ascendancy. Religious zeal, too, like a
smothered fire, is secretly burning in the hearts of the
different sectaries that inhabit them, and were it not
restrained by laws and superior authority, would
soon burst out into a flame of universal persecution.
Even the peaceable Quakers struggle hard for pre
eminence, and evince in a very striking manner that
the passions of mankind are much stronger than any
principles of religion.
The colonies, therefore, separately considered, are
internally weak; but it may be supposed, that, by an
union or coalition, they would become strong and
formidable: but an union seems almost impossible*'
one founded in dominion or power is morally so : for,
were not England to interfere, the colonies them
selves so well understand the policy of preserving
a balance, that, I think, they would not be idle spec
tators, were any one of them to endeavour to sub
jugate its next neighbour. Indeed, it appears to me
a very doubtful point, even supposing all the colonies
of America to be united under one head, whether it
would be possible to keep in due order and govern
ment so^wide and extended an empire, the difficulties
of communication, qf intercourse, of correspondence,
and all other circumstances considered.
A voluntary association or coalition, at least a
permanent one, is almost as difficult to be supposed:
for fire and water are not more heterogeneous than
[152]

General Reflections
the different colonies in North America. Nothing
can exceed the jealousy and emulation which they
possess in regard to each other. The inhabitants of
Pennsylvania and New York have an inexhaustible
source of animosity, in their jealousy for the trade
of the Jerseys. Massachusetts Bay and Rhode
Island, are not less interested in that of Connecticut.
The West Indies are a common subject of emulation
to them all. Even the limits and boundaries of each
colony are a constant source of litigation. In short,
such is the difference of character, of manners, of
religion, of interest, of the different colonies, that I
think, if I am not wholly ignorant of the human
mind, were they left to themselves, there would soon
' be a civil war from one end of the continent to the
other; while the Indians and negroes would, with
better reason, impatiently watch the opportunity of
exterminating them all together.
After all, however, supposing what I firmly believe
will never take place, a permanent union or alliance
of all the colonies, yet it could not be effectual, or
productive of the event supposed; for such is the ex
tent of coast settled by the American colonies that
it can never be defended but by a maritime power:
America must first be mistress of the sea before she
can be independent, or mistress of herself. Suppose
the colonies ever so populous; suppose them capable
of maintaining 100,000 men constantly in arms, (a
supposition in the highest degree extravagant), yet
[i53]

Travels Through North America
! half a dozen frigates would with ease ravage and lay
waste the whole country from end to end, without a
possibility of their being able to prevent it; the coun
try is so intersected by rivers, rivers of such magni
tude as to render it impossible to build bridges over
them, that all communication is in a manner cut off.
An army under such circumstances could never act
to any purpose or effect; its operations would be
totally frustrated.
Further, a great part of the opulence and power
of America depends upon her fisheries, and her com
merce with the West Indies; she cannot subsist with
out them; but these would be entirely at the mercy
of that power which might have the sovereignty of
the seas.; I conclude, therefore, that England, so
long as she maintains her superiority in that respect,
will also possess a superiority in America; but the
moment she loses the empire of the one, she will be
deprived of the sovereignty of the other: for were
that empire to be held by France, Holland, or any
other power, America, will, in all probability, be
annexed to it. New establishments formed in the
interior parts of America, will not come under this
predicament; I should therefore think it the best
policy to enlarge the present colonies, but not to
establish fresh ones; for to suppose interior colonies
to be of use to the mother country, by being a check
upon those already settled, is to suppose what is con
trary to experience, and the nature of things, viz.
[i54]

General Reflections
that men removed beyond the reach of power will be
subordinate to it.

October 20, I embarked again on board the Win
chester, for England; and arrived in Plymouth
Sound the 21st of November, after a rough and
tempestuous voyage.

[i55]

APPENDIX, N° i.
CATALOGUE of several TREES, PLANTS, BIRDS,
FISHES, ANIMALS, &c. mentioned in the course of
this Work; with their Common Names, and the names
given them by CATESBY and LINN.EUS.

COMMON NAMES. CATESBEAN. LINNjEAN.
Tobacco,  Nicotiana.
Maize or Indian ) ,-. T ,• v mr
P > frumentum Indicum,  /.ea Mays.
w > Aristolochia Pistolochia, . . . Polygala Senega.
Pigeon Plumb ) „ . . r ,.
° „ J- Cerasus latiore folio.
or Berry,  )
TT. ( Nux juglans alba Virgini- ) T , ..
Hiccory,  < '. &„ 6 )¦ . .Juglans alba.
Pignut,  Nux juglans Carolinensis, &c.
Cypress-Tree,  Cupressus Americana, . . Cupressus disticha.
Sugar Maple,  Acer Saccharinum.
M ¦ ° ¦< Acer Virginianum, &c  Acer Rubrum.
Candle-Berry ( Myrtus, Brabanticae simi- |M . p -r
Myrtle,  ( lis Carolinensis, &c. . . \ '
tt- • • r, , ( Tuniperus Vir-
Virginian Cedar,  ^ J v . .
° ( giniana.
Sassafras Tree,  Cornus Mas Odorata, . . . Laurus Sassafras.
[^57]

Travels Through North America
COMMON NAMES. CATESBEAN. LINNEAN.

Dogwood,  Cornus Mas Virginiana, &c. -j . , "
Pseudo-acacia \ k^  Robinia Pseudo.acaciai
or Locust-tree,. )
Honey Locust,  Acacia,  Gleditsia.
Red-Bud, or ludas ) «... r> • r> i •
rj, J > Sihquastrum,  Cercis Canadensis.
„ . „ . , , . ,,. . . o ( Chionanthus
t nnge-Tree,  Amelanchior Virginiana, &c. < y ¦ ¦
„ .. „ AL-rr-r 8 S Liriodendron
Tulip-Tree,  Arbor 1 ulipifera, &c  < -t V '{
TT , .. ,_ ( Magnolia amplissimo flore ( Magnolia
Umbrella- 1 ree, . . . j ^ &(.  j tripetala.
Sweet Flowering )
Bay, or Swamp > Magnolia lauri folio, &c. . . Magnolia Glauca.
Laurel  )
Trumpet Flower. . . .Bignonia fraxini foliis, &c. . \
r <= ( per virens.
,, „ T . ( Gelsominum sive jasminum ( Bignonia sem-
Yellow Tasmme, < , _ j, J < „„,,„•_.„.
J ' ( luteum, &c  ( per virens.
Catalpa,  Bignonia Urucu foliis, &c. . Bignonia Catalpa.
Chamaedaphne, or > ™ , , c ... . . . ( Kalmia lati-
Dwarf Laurd . . \ Chamaedaphne foliis t.ni, &c. j Ma
Chamaedaphne  Semper virens angustis foliis, ¦< nstifolia
N. B. These are by the Virginians commonly called Ivy.
May Apple,  Anapodophyllon Canadense, &c.
Chinkapin,  Castanea pumila Virginiana, &c..Fagus pumila.
„ . ( Diospyros
rersimon,  -j t7- • • „
l Virginiana.
Scarlet Flowering ) p .
Chestnut,  )
Virginia Maple,  Platanus Occidentalis,  < identalis
[158]

Appendix, N° I
COMMON NAMES. CATESBEAN. LINNvEAN.

„ „T , ( Cephalantus
Button Wood,  i r\ a . r
' ( Occidentalis.
Wild Oat,  Zizania Aquatica.
Ginseng,  Aureliana Canadensis,  ¦< c ?.
b' ( quetohum.
Tuckahoe Root,  j ^Tube"
Pacoon Flower.
Atamusco Lilly, .... Lillio Narcissus Virginiensis.
Pine Trees :
White Pine,  Pinus Strobus.
( Pinus foliis
\ singularibus.

Spruce Pine,

BIRDS.
Bald Eagle,  Aquila capite albo.
Fishing Hawk,  Accipiter Piscatorius.
Wild Turkey,  Gallo Pavo Sylvestris.
Sorus,  Gallinula Americana.
Partridge,  Perdrix Sylvestris Virginiana.
Blue-Wing,  Querquidula Americana fusca.
Shell-Drake.
Summer-Duck,. .Anas Americanus cristatus elegans.
tv r t, ti i i • • ( Columba mi-
rigeon ot rassage,. . . . ralumbus migratonus, . . < .
y. , . R. , ( Turdus minor, cinereo ( Turdus Poly-
° '  ( albus non maculatus, . ( glottus.
Red-Bird, or Virginia ) „ . , -r ¦ r, a- v
¦kt , ¦ , ° f Coccothraustes ruber, . . Loxia Cardmahs.
Nightingale,  )
Blue-Bird,  Rubicula Americana caerulea. .Motacilla Sialis.
[159]

Travels Through North America
COMMON NAMES. CATESBEAN. LINNEAN.
Yellow- Bird,  Parus luteus, &c. Qu ?
Baltimore-Bird,  Icterus ex aureo nigroque varius.
Humming-Bird,  Mellivora Avis Carolinensis, < r 1° k "S
Turtle,  Turtur Carolinensis.

FISH.
Grampus.
Porness I Delphinus
P6SS'  I Phocsna.
Albecor,  \ xSucomber
( 1 hynnus.
Boneta,  Scomber Pelamys.
,7, ¦ tt- , u- j ) Exocaetusvol-
r lying-!1 ish,  Hirundo,  J-
1 ° ' ' ) itans.
Sheepshead. Rock-Fish.Drums,  Coracino affinis.
Shad,  Turdus cinereus peltatus; Qu ?
Black-Fish.
Sea-Bass.Sturgeon,  Acipenser Sturio.

ANIMALS.
Buffalo,  Bison Americanus.
Moose or Elk. . . .Alee maxima Americana nigra.
Grey Fox,  Vulpis cinereus Americanus.
Flying Squirrel,  Sciurus volans.
[160J

Appendix, N° I
COMMON NAMES. CATESBEAN. LINN^EAN.
Ground Squirrel,  Sciurus striatus.
Skunk or Polecat,. . Putorius Americanus striatus,  Putorius.

SNAKES, REPTILES, INSECTS, &c.
Rattle-Snake, . . . .Vipera caudisona Americana,  Crotalus.
Black-Snake,  Anguis niger.
Wampum-Snake,. .Anguis e caeruleo et albo varius.
R , <, , ( Anguis niger, maculis rubris )
( et luteis eleganter varius. )
Bull-Frog,  Rana maxima Americana aquatica, .... Ocellata.
Green-Tree Frog, .... Rana viridis arborea,  Arborea.
Fire-Fly,  Lampyris.
Mosquito,  Culex pipiens.

[161]

Travels Through North America

APPENDIX, N° 2

I HAVE not been able to procure any satisfactory ac
count of the tonnage cleared out of the different ports
of North America, in the years 1759 and 1760; owing to
the incorrect manner of taking the tonnage at that time,
and the irregularity with which the accounts were generally
transmitted to England: but having been favoured by G.
Chalmers, Esq. first Clerk to the Committe of Council for
the consideration of all matters relating to trade and foreign
plantations, with an exact statement of the number of
vessels and their tonnage, which entered inwards and cleared
outwards, in Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and
South Carolina, in the year 1770; at which time the colonies
were in their most flourishing condition: — a probable con
jecture may be formed from it of the state of their commerce
ten years before, by allowing for its increase during that
period of peace and prosperity. The number of vessels
and their tonnage cleared out from New York is not speci
fied in the statement; but by collating other accounts I have
endeavoured to ascertain it as nearly as possible. Mr.
Chalmers, with the greatest liberality and politeness,
favoured me at the same time with several tables and state
ments relating to the commercial situation of the United
States, both before and since the American war; which, as
they are full of information, and cannot fail of being highly
interesting to the reader, I have here annexed: and I am
[162]

Appendix, N°

happy to have this opportunity of publicly expressing my
gratitude and obligation to that gentleman, for his indul
gence in permitting me to avail myself of such valuable
information.

[163]

Travels Through North America
i. — A Statement of the Number of Vessels, with their
Tonnage, which entered Inwards and cleared Out
wards, in the following Countries, during the Year 1770.

Massachusetts 
Pennsylvania 
Virginia 
South Carolina 
In the same year, accord
ing to the best inform
ation which I have been
able to procure, there
cleared out from New
York 

Ships entered. Inwards.

Ships entered. Outw'ds.

Vessels.

Tons.

Vessels.

Tons.

1,247 804613
492

65,271
50,901
44,803 29,504

J>334 820604
492

70,284
49,654
45,17932,031

. .612

say 36,720

2. — Vessels employed between Great Britain and the
Countries belonging to the United States.
Number and tonnage of the vessels clearing outwards, and em
ployed yearly in the trade between Great Britain and the coun
tries now belonging to the United States
of America, on an average of the years
1770, 1771, and 1772 before the war 
Number of ditto so employed, entering in
wards, on a like average 
Medium of the average number and tonnage
of the vessels entering inwards, and clear
ing outwards 

Ships.

Tons.

628

81,951

699

9hSV>

663

86,745

[164]

Appendix, N°

British.

American.

Total.

Ships.

Tons.

Ships.

Tons.

Ships.

Tons.

272

55,785

157

25,725

429

81,510

251

49,4°5

169

27,403

420

76,808

26l

52,595

163

26,564

425

79,J59

Number and tonnage of British vessels, and of vessels belonging
to the United States, clearing outwards, so employed, on an ave
rage of the years
1787, 1788, and
1789, since the
war 
Number and ton
nage of ditto, en
tering inwards, on
a like average. . .
Medium of the ave
rage-number and
tonnage of Brit
ish and American
vessels so employ
ed, entering in
wards and clear
ing outwards ....
It appears from the foregoing averages, that the number
of vessels employed in the direct commercial intercourse
between Great Britain and the countries now belonging
to the United States of America, has decreased since the
war 238; and that the quantity of tonnage has decreased
since the war 7,586 tons. The decrease of the tonnage
appears to be much less than the decrease of the number
of the ships, and the decrease of the tonnage inwards is
much greater than that of the tonnage outwards. The
reason that the quantity of the tonnage in general appears
to be less decreased than the number of ships, is,
First. — That larger ships are now employed in this as
well as in every other branch of commerce, than formerly.
Secondly. — The imperfect manner of taking the ton
nage before the war, which, in order that the master might
be charged a less sum for pilotage and lighthouse duties,
[165]

Travels Through North America
was generally estimated at about one-third less than it really
was. The greater decrease of the tonnage inwards, compared
with that of the tonnage outwards, is to be imputed to the
diminished importation of the bulky articles of rice and
tobacco. It appears by the foregoing account of the vessels em
ployed in this trade since the war, that the number of Ameri
can vessels so employed, 68 ships; and the quantity of
British tonnage so employed, exceeds the quantity of
American tonnage so employed, 26,031 tons.
As there was no distinction before the war, between ships
belonging to the inhabitants of the countries now under the
dominion of the United States and the other parts of the
British dominions, it is impossible to state with certainty,
what was the proportion of each description of ships then
employed in this branch of commerce.
The vessels so employed, were then of three sorts :
First — Vessels belonging to merchants resident in the
British European dominions.
Secondly — Vessels belonging to British merchants, oc
casionally resident in those colonies that now form the
United States.
Thirdly — Vessels belonging to merchants, who were
natives and permanent inhabitants of those colonies that
now form the United States.

[166]

Appendix, N°

2

3. — The following Table will shew the Proportion of
each Description of Vessels, classed in the Manner be
fore mentioned, then employed in this Branch of Com
merce, according to the best Information that can be
obtained:

Proportion of
vessels belong

Proportion of
vessels belong
ing to British

Proportion of
vessels belong-
ing to mer
chants, who

ing to mer

merchants, oc

werenativesand

chants, resident
in the British

casionally resi
dent in those

permanent in
habitants of

European do
Colonies that
those Colonies
minions.
now form the
that now form
United States.
the United
States.
New England, 
1 - 8th.
1 - 8th.
6 - 8ths.
New York, 
3 - 8ths.
2 - 8ths.
6 - 8ths.
5 - 8ths.
3 - 8ths.
3 - 8ths.
1 - 8th.
2 - 8ths.
2 - 8ths.
3 - 8ths.
1 - 8th.
1 - 8th.
Maryland and Virginia, . .
North Carolina, 
S. Carolina and Georgia,
5 - 8ths.
2 - 8ths.
1 - 8th.
From the foregoing table it is evident, that the propor
tion of vessels, classed under the before-mentioned de
scriptions, varied according to the different colonies, now
forming the United States, with which the Commerce of
Great Britain was then carried on; the quantity of shipping
so employed, which belonged either to the inhabitants of
Great Britain, or to British merchants occasionally resident
in the said colonies, being much greater in the commercial
intercourse then carried on with the southern colonies, than
with the northern colonies, particularly those of New Eng
land. But upon the whole, there is reason to believe, from
[167]
Travels Through North America
calculations founded on the foregoing table, as well as from
other information, that the proportion of tonnage, employed
before the war in this branch of commerce, which belonged
to the inhabitants of Great Britain, was about four-eighths
and an half; and the proportion, which belonged to British
merchants, occasionally resident in the colonies now form
ing the United States, was about one-eighth and an half,
making together nearly six-eighths of the whole; and that
the proportion of tonnage so employed, which belonged to
merchants, who were then natives and permanent inhabi
tants of the colonies now forming the United States, was
rather more than two-eighths of the whole. At present
the proportion of tonnage, employed in this branch of con-
merce, belonging to the merchants of Great Britain, is
nearly six-eighths of the whole; and the proportion of ton
nage, belonging to the merchants of the United States, is
rather more than two-eighths of the whole; so that in this
view of the subject, though the quantity of shipping, em
ployed between Great Britain, and the countries now under
the dominion of the United States, has since the war de
creased on the whole; yet, allowing for this decrease, the
share of the shipping which belongs to the merchants of
Great Britain, has increased in the proportion of one-
eighth and an half; (the share of the shipping, which before
the war belonged to British merchants, occasionally resi
dent in the colonies now forming the United States, being
transferred to merchants resident in Great Britain); and
the share of the shipping so employed, which now belongs
to merchants, subjects of the United States, and permanent
inhabitants thereof, is nearly the same as it was before the
war. [168]

Appendix, N° 2

4. — Vessels employed between Great Britain and the
remaining British Colonies in North America.

Number and tonnage of British vessels clearing outwards, and em
ployed yearly in the trade between Great Britain and the re
maining British colonies in North America,
on an average of the years 1770, 1771, and
1772, before the war 
Number and tonnage of ditto so employed,
entering inwards, on a like average 
Medium of the average number and tonnage
of British vessels entering inwards, and
clearing outwards 
Number and tonnage of British vessels clear
ing outwards, employed in this trade, on an
average of the years 1787, 1788, and 1789,
since the war 
Number and tonnage of ditto so employed,
entering inwards, on a like average 
Medium of the average number and tonnage
of British vessels entering inwards, and
clearing outwards 
By the foregoing averages it appears, that the number
of vessels employed between Great Britain and the remain
ing colonies in North America, being all British ships, has
increased since the war in the proportion of about one-half,
being 106 vessels more than it was before the war; and the
quantity of tonnage has increased 34,887 tons, being in the
proportion of about four times more than it was before the
war.

Ships.

Tods.

250

9,582

273

12,857

261

11,219

486

61,858

249

30,355

367

46,106

[169]

Travels Through North America
5. — Vessels employed between the remaining British
Colonies in North America, and the countries belong
ing to the United States.

Number and tonnage of British vessels clearing outwards, and em
ployed yearly in the trade between the remaining British colonies
in North America, and the countries which were then British
colonies, but now form the United States of
America, on an average of the years 1770,
1771, and 1772, before the war 
Number and tonnage of ditto so employed,
entering inwards, on a like average 
Medium of the average number and tonnage
of British vessels entering inwards, and
clearing outwards 
Number and tonnage of British vessels clear
ing outwards, and employed yearly in the
trade between the remaining British colo
nies in North America, and the countries
belonging to the United States, on an
average of the years 1787, 1788, and 1789,
since the war 
Number and tonnage of ditto so employed,
entering inwards, on a like average 
Medium of the average number and tonnage
of British vessels entering inwards, and
clearing outwards 

Ships.

Tons.

250

9,582

276

12,857

263

11,219

208

15,135

269

15,524

238

15,329

The number of the vessels, so stated, includes their re
peated voyages, and it appears that the number has de
creased, since the war, 25 vessels, or about one-tenth: but
the quantity of the tonnage has increased 4,110 tons, or
about one-third. The vessels, employed before the war in
this branch of trade, might lawfully belong to the inhabi
tants of the countries now under the dominion of the United
States, it is certain they then owned much the greatest share
[170]

Appendix, N° 2
of these vessels: but vessels so employed can now belong
only to the inhabitants of the remaining colonies, or of some
other part of the British dominions.

6. — Vessels employed between the British Islands in
the West Indies, and the Countries belonging to the
United States.

Number and tonnage of British vessels clearing outwards, and em
ployed yearly in the trade between the British Islands in the
West Indies, and the countries belonging to
theUnited States, on an average of the years
1770, 1771, and 1772, before the war 
Number and tonnage of ditto so employed,
entering inwards, on a like average 
Medium of the average number and tonnage
of British vessels entering inwards, and
clearing outwards 
Number and tonnage of British vessels clear
ing outwards, and employed yearly in the
trade between the British islands in the West
Indies, and the countries belonging to the
United States, on an average of the years
1787, 1788, and 1789, since the war 
Number and tonnage of ditto so employed,
entering inwards, on a like average 
Medium of the average number and tonnage
of British vessels, entering inwards, and
clearing outwards 
The account of the number of vessels from whence these
averages are taken, includes their repeated voyages. It has
decreased since the war 1,690 ships, or is three-fourths less
than it was before the war. The quantity of tonnage has
decreased 45,001 tons, or rather less than half what it was
ti7i]

Ships.

Tons.

2,172

103,540

2,297

™m<>

2,234

107,739

510

57,904

579

67,573

544

62,738

Travels Through North America
before the war: but five-eighths of these vessels, before the
war, belonged to merchants, permanent inhabitants of the
countries now under the dominion of the United States;
and three-eighths to British merchants, residing occasion
ally in the said countries. At that time very few vessels
belonging to British merchants, resident in the British
European dominions, or in the British islands in the West
Indies, had a share in this trade. The vessels employed
in this trade can now only belong to British subjects residing
in the present British dominions. Many vessels now go
from the ports of Great Britain, carrying British manu
factures to the United States, then load with lumber and
provisions for the British islands in the West Indies, and
return, with the produce of these islands, to Great Britain.
The vessels so employed are much larger than those in
which this trade was formerly carried on, and for this reason
the tonnage employed in it has decreased much less than
the number of the vessels.

7- — Vessels employed between the remaining British
Colonies in North America, and the British Islands
in West Indies.

Number and tonnage of British vessels clearing outwards, and em
ployed yearly in the trade between the remaining British colonies
in North America, and the British islands in
the West Indies, on an average of the years
1770, 1771, and 1772, before the war. . .
Number and tonnage of ditto so employed,
entering inwards, on a like average 
Medium of the average number and tonnage
of British vessels, entering inwards, and
clearing outwards  [172]

Ships.

Tons.

15

753

23

1,240

J9

996

Appendix, N°

Ships.

Tons.

142

12,696

171

16,331

156

14,513

Number and tonnage of British vessels, clear
ing outwards, and employed yearly in the
trade between the remaining British colo
nies in North America, and the British
islands in the West Indies, on an average
of the years 1787, 1788, and 1789, since
the war 
Number and tonnage of ditto so employed,
entering inwards, on a like average 
Medium of the average number and tonnage
of British vessels entering inwards, and
clearing outwards 

The account of the number of vessels from whence these
averages are taken, includes their repeated voyages. The
number of vessels so employed has increased since the war
137 ships, being seven times more than it was before the
war: and the quantity of tonnage has increased 13,517 tons,
being thirteen times more than it was before the war.
Many of these vessels, before the war, belonged to the in
habitants of the countries which were then British colonies,
but are now under the dominion of the United States : they
can now only belong to British subjects, resident in some
part of His Majesty's present dominions.
As the result of the foregoing deduction the following
table has been prepared; in which allowance is made for the
repeated voyages, which the vessels employed in these dif
ferent branches of trade are supposed to make in each year;
and the number and tonnage of the vessels is reduced in
due proportion. This table will shew, at one view, the
increase and decrease of vessels and tonnage employed in
these various branches of navigation; and how far the
balance on the whole is at present in favour of Great-
Britain. [i73]

<
wXH
wufc
«3

Vesselsbelonging tothe subjects of the
United States.

vtao
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vo"

>o IOPI

"3>

PO
vO

P0
>o IH

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British dominions..

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io -*h ?-! p*

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VO VO LO 00 U-)
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CT

wa HHp:
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belonging to merchants,who werenatives
and permanent
inhabi tants of
the coun tries whichwere then
British colo nies,
but now
form the
UnitedStates.

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then- tonnage,
belonging to merchants
resi dentin the present British
dominions ; or
to
British mer chants
occasionally resident
in the coun tries which
were then
British colo nies,
but now
form the
UnitedStates.

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[175]
-An Account of the Tonnage of Vessels entered into the Unit
October, 1789, to the 30th of September 1790, distinguishing
of its Tonnage; and distinguishing the American from Fore

AMERICAN.

EUROPEAN

STATES.

•g-S lj

> ao
1

QJ U
.an % v
u', "-1
1 >

4J
rt rt
n

Vessels
belong ing to
Great Britaininclud ingIreland.

k «
1 §
u 0 '£
A +¦> fl
, w&
J2 a
a 2
> °

Massachusetts . . .
Pennsylvania
Virginia 
Maryland 
New York 
* South Carolina . .
f North Carolina .
ConnecticutGeorgia 
New Hampshire . .
t Rhode Island . .
New Jersey 

53,073 6,055 9,9H6,203
16,099 508
5,723 6,33° 1,090
1,6701,6261,061
3,429

24,826 55 60
473 838

99,!245i,59433,56o42,072 39,272 16,871
24,21924,286 9,544
u,376 7,061
3,0802,085

177,023 57,649 43,52948,27555,431 17,379
29,94230,616 10,634
!3,5i9 9,525
4,Hi5,5H

19,493
24,60556,273
36,918 23,339 18,725 4,94! 2,556
15,041 3,458 95
1,783 267

853
9,665
4,092 6,921
9,4854,256 244
1,57° 34
221 79

i1

Total..

112,781

26,252

364,i44

5°3>I77

225,494

37,420

1

* In the Returns from Charles Town, one Quarter is «
f The Returns from this State did not commence till
j The Returns from this State did not commence till
Note. — This Table contains an account of the tonnage of vessels entering
period subsequent to any of those years on which the averages stated ah
all the tonnage belonging to the subjects of the United States of America,!
their coasting trade, and their fisheries, which entered their ports during tli
of it was employed in their foreign trade with the British dominions. On
the preceding tables, is only of so much of the tonnage of the United as
the various branches of commerce, with such parts of the British don
trade, in ships belonging to the said States. rI7--i

:d States of America, from the ist of
each State according to the Magnitude
»n Vessels.

cm y
1-2

97,369
09,91903,894 92,11488,25540,360
35,12733,17227,245 17,011 9,841
5,9245,860

66,091

RECAPITULATION.

Total Tonnage of each Country.
Viz. Tons.
United States  503,177
Great Britain . . 222,347
Ireland  3,1471-225,494!
France  !3,435i
Holland  8,815!
Spain  8,551!
Portugal  2,924
Denmark  1,619!
Germany  ',368
Prussia  394
Sweden  311I- 37,419!
Total  766,091

wanting, and not included.
nth of March, 1790.
21st of June, 1790.

5 the several ports of the United States, in a
>ove were formed. It contains an account of
employed in every part of their foreign trade,
at period; but does not distinguish what part
the other hand, the account given above in
ates as was employed during those years in
unions with which they are allowed now to

Appendix, N°

io.-Value of Exports from the United States to dif
ferent Parts of the World, from the Commencement of
the Custom Houses in August, 1789, to 30th September,
1790, viz.

Dollars. Cents.*
Provisions  5,757,482
Grain  2,519,232
Fish  941 ,696
Lumber  1,263,534
Live stock  486,105
10,968,044
Other articles  9,447,917 : 84

Dollars. Cents.
Total 20,415,966 : 84

Of these the Exports
To the Dominions of France  4,698,735 : 48
D°. Great Britain  9,363,416 : 47
D°. Spain  2,005,907 : 16
D°. Portugal  1,283,462
D°. United Netherlands  1,963,880 : 9
D°. Denmark  224,415 : 50
D°. Sweden  47,240
D°. Flanders  14,298
D° Germany  487,787 : 14
D°. Mediterranean  41,298
D°. African Coast and Islands  139,984
D°. East Indies  135,181
D°. North West Coast of America  10,362
20,415,966 : 84
Exclusive of many packages omitted in the returns from
the custom-houses, which were exported from the United
States. * A cent is one hundredth part of a dollar, or about a halfpenny.
!>79]

Travels Through North America
n. — List of such Vessels (and the respective Tonnage of
each Denomination) as entered the Port of Philadel
phia, from the ist Day of September 1772, to the 1st Day
of September 1775, distinguishing each Year; and also
distinguishing those which were owned in Great Brit
ain, Ireland, and such Parts of the British Dominions
as are not now comprehended within the United States
(N°. 1); those which were owned in the Port of Phila
delphia alone (N°. 2); and those which were owned in
the Thirteen Colonies which now compose the United
States of America (N°. 3).

N° 1. British.

1772 to 1773.
N°. Tons.
23 Ships -  3,5°8
30 Brigantines .... 2,925
4 Snows  370
22 Sloops  1,043
18 Schooners  822
97 8,668

1773 to 1774
N° Tons.
28 Ships  4,304
33 Brigantines . . . 2,853
12 Snows  1,246
24 Sloops  I,I4Z
22 Schooners .... 962
119 i°>5°7

1774 to 1775.
N° Tons.
35 Ships  5,590
33 Brigantines . . 3,170
7 Snows  730
22 Sloops  1,006
17 Schooners ... 842
114 11,338

N° 2. Philadelphia.

1772 to 1773.
N°. Tons.
109 Ships  16,385
140 Brigantines . . . 12,148
25 Snows  2,902
39 Sloops  1,806
63 Schooners . . . 3,226
376 36,467

1773 to 1774.
N° Tons.
116 Ships  17,569
176 Brigantines . . 15,749
18 Snows  2,092
42 Sloops  1,844
54 Schooners . . . 2,959
406 40,213
[l80]

1774101775.
N° Tons.
146 Ships  23,406
205 Brigantines . . 17,802
17 Snows  1,972.
36 Sloops  1,844
35 Schooners . . . 1,834
439 46,858

Appendix, N° 2

N° 3. America.

1772 to 1773.
N° Tons.
5 Ships  700
46 Brigantines . . 3,856
1 Snow  160
139 Sloops  6,503
80 Schooners . . . 3,899
271 15,118

1773 t0 '774-
N° Tons.
6 Ships  860
28 Brigantines . . 2,224
135 Sloops  5,876
81 Schooners ... 3,962
250 12,922

1774 to 1775.
N° Tons.
7 Ships  902
30 Brigantines . . 2,576
1 Snow  80
130 Sloops  5,^43
78 Schooners . . . 4,025
246 13,426

12. — A Table, shewing what Proportion the Tonnage of
Great Britain employed out of the Port of Philadel
phia bore to the Tonnage employed out of that Port,
and owned therein, upon an Average of three Years
antecedent to the War, and what Proportion the Ton
nage of Great Britain so employed then bore to the Ton
nage of Philadelphia, united with the Tonnage of the
other twelve American Colonies so employed. — Shew
ing also, what Proportion the British Tonnage now em
ployed in the Trade of Philadelphia bears to the Ton
nage of all the United States employed out of that Port,
upon an Average of the last two Years.

British 
Philadelphia 
American 
Philadelphia and American combined .

iT-73-
Tons. 8,668
36,467 15,118
5M85

'774-
Tons.
10,507
40,213 12,922
53>'35-

i775-
Tons.
">333
46,858 13,426
60,284

Total Tons. 30,508
123,538 41,466
165,004

By the foregoing table it appears, that the tonnage of
Great Britain employed out of the port of Philadelphia in
the above years was not equal to I -4th part of the tonnage
employed out of and owned in the port of Philadelphia; —
[181]

Travels Through North America
and that the tonnage of Great Britain then so employed,
bore only a proportion as 2 does to ii to the tonnage of
Philadelphia and the other twelve colonies combined, so
employed.

British . . .
American

1788.
Tons.
23,004
28,028

1789.
Tons.
29,372
37,7^8

Total Tons.
52,376
65,756

By the above table it appears, that the tonnage of Great
Britain employed out of the port of Philadelphia in the
years 1788 and 1789, amounted to within one-fifth part
of the tonnage of all the thirteen United States combined,
so employed.

13. — A List of British Vessels which entered the Port
of Philadelphia the following Years, viz. from 5th Sep
tember 1787, to 5th September 1788.

From
Great Britain.
Vessels. Tons.
16 Ships  3,74^
19 Brigantines 2,907
3 Snows  456
3 Sloops  198
1 Schooner ... 85

42 Sail.

7,394

Ireland.
Vessels. Tons.
4 Ships. . . . 1,021
1 Brig .... 135
1 Snow .... 90

British West
Indies.
Vessels. Tons
1 Ship  174
52 Brigs . . . 6,229
64 Sloops . . . 5,597
24 Schooners 1,695

6 Sail.

1,246

141 Sail. 13,695

British American
Colonies.
Vessels. Tons.
1 Ship  160
6 Brigantines 462
1 Schooner . . 47

8 Sail.

Total.
22 Ships 
78 Brigantines
4 Snows 
67 Sloops 
26 Schooners . .

[182]

669

197 Sail Vessels — 23,004 Tons.

Appendix^ N° 2

A List of British Vessels which entered the Port of
Philadelphia the following Years, viz. from 5th Septem
ber 1788, to 5th September 1789.

From
Great Britain.
Vessels. Tons.
23 Ships  5,967
19 Brigantines 2,936
1 Snow  104
4 Sloops  223
1 Schooner . . 42

48 Sail.

9,272

Ireland.
Vessels. Tons.
15 Ships. . . . 2,961
5 Brigantines 63 1
1 Snow  108

21 Sail.

3,700

British West
Indies.
Vessels . Tons
3 Ships  600
48Brigantines 6,010
69 Sloops . . . 5,586
29 Schooners 2,332

149 Sail. 14,528

British American
Colonies.
Vessels. Tons.
1 Ship  162
ioBrigantines 1,060
2 Sloops .... 106
7 Schooners.. 544

20 Sail.

1,872

Total.
42 Ships  ]
82 Brigantines .... |
2 Snows  r 238 Sail Vessels — 29,372 Tons.
75 Sloops  1
37 Schooners  J

[183]

Travels Through North America
14. — Account of Vessels belonging to other European
Nations, which entered the principal Ports of the
United States in the following Years; viz.

1787.

Charles Town.

Ships.

Brigantines.

Schooners.

Sloops.

American Tonnage.

Spain 

00 I I
0000

24
4 0 1
1 11

39 2
000 0
00

32
0 0
0 0
0 0

i>°73 7iS
799 280

France 

United Netherlands. .
Altona 

Bremen 

J93164 130127

Denmark 

Hamburgh 

Austria 

2
14
4i
5
3,48i
1788.
France 
I
0 7
00
0 0
Phii
44 6
3
2 I
2
.ADELPHI/ I
44
0
0 00
L. 0 2
00 1
00
692
1,022
Holland 
2,335 321
43° 157
Portugal 
Sweden 
Denmark 
Prussia 
388
8
22
9
3
5,345
[184]
Appendix, N° 2

1789

New York.

1 
d 
Ships.
Brigantines.
Schooners.
Sloops.
American Tonnage.
France
Hollan
Spain Portug:
Sweden
I
2330
5 1
3
4 2
O0 I1
0
004
00
1,000 960
1,580
1,380 400
9
15
2
4
5,320
I789
a .
To Virginia . .
Maryland
North Car
Georgia .
Massachu
2,664
fro :st tior
2,3483,0002,500 1,758
¦On rt
a a -
olina .
0,73 0
3 .B
setts 
Add to the above amoui
the rest of theUnited J
lt one-fourth for
States 
26,416 6,604
Total
amount 
33,020
Which is little more than one-fourth of the tonnage of
the vessels belonging to British merchants in all the different
branches of this commerce, not allowing, in either case, for
repeated voyages.
[185]
Travels Through North America
It is left to the intelligent reader to draw his own conclu
sions from the above tables and statements; and, in addi
tion to what has been said, I shall only further observe, that
the total annual decrease in value, since the war, of British
manufactures and other articles, exported from Great
Britain to the countries belonging to the United States, has
amounted to  £. 398,393
The total annual increase in value, since the
war, of the like articles, exported from Great
Britain, to the remaining British colonies
in North America, has been  449,677
To the British West Indian islands  114,801
Total  564,478
So that upon the whole the annual increase in value, since
the war, of British manufactures and other articles ex
ported from Great Britain to North America and the West
Indies, has amounted to  £. 166,085
The total annual decrease in value, since the
war, of import in to Great Britain from
the United States, has amounted to  £. 843,506
The total annual increase in value, since the
war, of imports into Great Britain from
the remaining British colonies in North
America, has been  £. 96,986
From the British West Indian islands  671,066
Total  £. 768,052
So that upon the balance total, the decrease
has been  75,454
This decrease has been chiefly owing to the decreased
[186]

Appendix, N° 2
importation of tobacco and rice (the Americans not being
any longer obliged to ship their produce for British ports
only) amounting in value,
Upon 44,774,458 lbs. of the former, to  £. 582,987
Upon 259,035 cwt. of the latter, to  196,526
In the whole to  £. 779,513
The value of exports to the countries now belonging to
the United States, has exceeded the value of imports from
thence, without including Ireland, in a much greater pro
portion since the war than before it; the balance of trade,
therefore, is more in favour of Great Britain.
It must be highly satisfactory to the reader to know, that
the value of the British exports of 1789 exceeded those of
1784, to all countries, by  £¦ 4,400,609
N. B. — The reader may possibly discover two or three
trifling inaccuracies, none of them, however, (if there are
any such) exceeding a fraction, or at most an unit, in the
preceding computations; which the Editor has not thought it
necessary to notice.

[187]

Travels Through North America
15. — An Account of the Number of Ships and Brigs
built in the Ports of the United States, in the Year
1772, compared with the like Vessels building in the said
States in 1789.*

States.

New Hampshire
Massachusetts . .
Rhode Island. . .
Connecticut

Total of the N. England Provinces
New York 
New Jersey 
Pennsylvania 
Maryland 
Virginia 
North Carolina 
South Carolina 
Georgia 

I

772.

1789.

Vessels

. Tons.

Vessels. Tons.
6 —
c 

—

—

—

123

18,149

II

0

'5

1,640

—

—

1

80

I

200

18

2,897

14

2,966

8

1,626

5

1,200

7

933

—

—

3

253

—

—

2

213

—

—

5

753

—

—

182
 1

31

* In the account of ships and brigs built in the ports of the
United States in the year 1772, there is no specification of the num
bers built in each of the New England provinces, but a total only
of the number and tonnage of vessels built in all these provinces;
nor was any account given of the tonnage of the eleven vessels
building in the provinces of New Hampshire and Massachusetts
Bay in 1789. So that it is not possible to make a comparison of the
quantity of tonnage of which the vessels in the foregoing table con
sists.

[188]

APPENDIX, N° 3.
THE success of this institution has in no degree corre
sponded to the excellence of the design. The aborigi
nal Indians are from their infancy accustomed to an idle
and roving life; they are chiefly employed in hunting, fowl
ing, or fishing, or, as soon as they are able to carry arms or
a tomahawk, to war; and it is almost impossible to reclaim
them from this savage and dissipated mode of life. Not
many years ago, a remarkable instance happened at Wil
liamsburg, which greatly exemplifies the present observa
tion: The Cherokees had with difficulty been prevailed upon
to suffer one of their children, a youth of nine or ten years
of age, to be conducted to Williamsburg, in order that he
might be educated in Mr. Boyle's school. The young In
dian soon shewed himself impatient of restraint and con
finement; he grew sullen, would learn nothing, and although
every means were tried to please him (for it was the wish
and interest of the colony that he should be pleased) ap
peared always dissatisfied and unhappy. One morning he
was missed, and although every possible inquiry was made,
no tidings could be heard, nor the least information re
ceived concerning him: he had not been seen by any one,
either planter or negro; and as the distance of the Cherokee
country was four or five hundred miles, separated by large
rivers abounding with sharks, or immense forests full of
venomous serpents or wild beasts, it was justly apprehended
that he must inevitably perish; and as it would be impossible
[189]

Travels Through North America
to convince the Indians of the real truth of the case, it
might unhappily occasion a war with the Cherokee nation,
a circumstance of the most calamitous importance. It
fortunately happened, however, that the young Indian got
safe home; he headed or swam over the great rivers that
obstructed his way; concealed himself in the woods during
the day, travelled in the night, supported himself with the
tuckahoe and other roots and berries, and by that natural
sagacity which is characteristic of the Indians * explored
his way through an immense extent of trackless woods and
forests to his native cabin. At present the only Indian
children in Mr. Boyle's school are five or six of the Pamunky
tribe, who, being surrounded by and living in the midst of
our settlements, are more accustomed to the manners and
habits of the English colonists.
A circumstance similar to the above I find mentioned
by Mr. Catesby in his Natural History of Carolina;
and it probably refers to the same event. The story,
as I have related it, was communicated to 'me by the
Hon. and Rev. Mr. Commissary Dawson, President of
the College.
The character of the North American Indians is not to be
collected from observations upon the Pamunky, or any other
Indian tribe living within the boundaries of the British
settlements. These are in many respects changed, per-
* A melancholy proof of the inferiority of Europeans to Indians
in this respect happened in the year 1757, when Col. Spotswood,
who was out with a party of rangers formed of Virginia gentlemen,
for the protection of the frontiers, unfortunately strayed from his
companions, could not find his way back either to them, or to any
of our settlements, though constantly used to be out upon hunt
ing-parties, and miserably perished in the woods.
[190]

Appendix, N° J

haps not for the better, from their original customs and
moral habits. In general the North American Indians re
semble each other in the great outlines and features of
character, but intercourse with the Europeans, excessive
use of brandy and other spirits, and, which is almost irre
sistible, the depravity and immoral example of our Indian
traders and back-settlers, all these have concurred in
a most unfortunate degree to corrupt and contaminate
their minds. It is not my intention to enter into a dis
cussion of this subject, but the following anecdotes, for
the truth of which I can answer, may possibly cast some
light upon it, and may occasionally be of use to any
future historian, who shall undertake to consider and
treat of it more largely.
Previous to my arrival in Virginia, a war had been upon
the point of breaking out between the Nottoway and a tribe
of the Tuscarora Indians, on account of a murder that had
been committed upon the former by one of the latter nation;
they were both of them in alliance with the English, and as
the war raged at that time with incredible fury upon the
frontiers, it was of great moment to prevent a rupture; and,
if possible, to reconcile the differences between them. For
this purpose frequent conferences had been held by the
Lieutenant Governor of Virginia with the chiefs of the
Nottoway nation, and several talks and negotiations had
passed between them. The business was not entirely con
cluded when I arrived at Williamsburg; and very soon after
a party of Indians arrived from the Nottoway country,
which borders upon North Carolina, on the same errand.
Amongst those who composed the train was a warrior,
named Captain Charles; and as he was the principal per-
[i9i]

Travels Through North America
sonage entrusted by his nation with the commission, I en
deavoured to form an acquaintance with him, and to in
sinuate myself into his good opinion; with this view I in
vited him to my apartment, and by showing him some little
civility I so far succeeded, that he expressed himself sen
sible of my attention, and promised when he next came to
Williamsburg, which, he said, if his nation approved of his
mission, he should do very shortly, he would bring me some
present as a token of his acknowledgment and remem
brance. Accordingly some time after, walking in the streets
of Williamsburg, I accidentally met him; and after accost
ing and saluting him in the usual manner, by giving him
my hand, and making a few enquiries, I said, "Well, Cap-
"tain Charles, where is the present you promised me?" —
He immediately hung down his head, and said, "I have
"forgot it." — I inconsiderately replied, "It does not much
" signify; but I thought an Indian never forgot his promise."
After this we separated, and I thought no more of the trans
action; but in the afternoon information was brought to
the Lieutenant Governor, that the Indians had suddenly
disappeared, without having received the presents intended
for them by government; and that it was feared they had
gone away in disgust, and that the negotiation would
have an unfortunate issue. Two or three days passed
under these alarming circumstances. At length, however,
they returned, increased in number, and generally laden
with presents, or curiosities intended for sale. It then ap
peared that Captain Charles, stung with my reproach, had
gone back to the Nottoway country; or, which is more
likely, as he was absent only two or three days, into the
[192]

Appendix, N° J
swamps or woods, to fetch the articles which he had
promised me.
The other anecdote is of a much more interesting and
more striking nature. About the year 1756, Col. Peter
Randolph, Col. Byrd, Mr. Campbell, and other persons,
were sent upon an embassy by the Governor of Virginia to
the Cherokee country, in order, if possible, to cement more
strongly the friendship and alliance which subsisted at that
time between our colonies and those savages, and to en
gage them more heartily in our cause. The business was
in train, and likely to succeed, when unfortunately the
following most flagrant and atrocious act of treachery im
mediately put an end to the negotiation, and eventually
involved us in a new and bloody war with the very nation
whose friendship and aid it was the object of the mission to
cement and make more firm and lasting. The reader
should be informed, that the cruel depredations and ravages
committed by the Indians after General Braddock's defeat,
had induced government to offer a considerable premium
for every scalp of a hostile Indian, that should be brought
in by any of our rangers : this unfortunately opened a door,
and gave occasion to many acts of enormity; for some of
the back-settlers, men of bad lives and worse principles,
tempted by the reward, insidiously massacred several of
our friendly Indians, and afterwards endeavoured to de
fraud government of the reward, by pretending that they
were the scalps of hostile tribes. Amongst others, a back-
settler in Augusta county, a captain of militia, whose name
ought to be delivered down to posterity with infamy,
treacherously murdered some Cherokee Indians, who had
been out upon a military expedition in our behalf against
[!93]

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the French, under a pretence that they had pilfered some
of his poultry. He had received and entertained them as
friends; and when they took leave of him to return to their
own country, he placed a party in ambush, murdered
several of the poor unsuspecting Cherokees, and then en
deavoured to defraud government, by claiming the pre
mium assigned for the scalps of hostile Indians. A few of
those who escaped the massacre arrived at the Cherokee
town with the news of this horrid transaction, just at the
moment when the embassy was upon the point of conclud
ing a very advantageous treaty: a violent ferment imme
diately took place, and the Cherokees, in the utmost rage,
assembled from every quarter, to take instant revenge by
putting all the embassadors to death.
Attakulla Kulla, or the Little Carpenter, a steady friend
of the English, hastened to the ambassadors, apprised them
of their danger, and recommended to them to conceal or bar
ricade themselves as well as they could, and not to appear
abroad on any account. He then assembled his nation,
over whom he possessed great influence, in the council-
room; inveighed bitterly against the treachery of the Eng
lish; advised an immediate war to revenge the injury; and
never to lay down the hatchet, till they had obtained full
compensation and atonement for the blood of their country
men. "Let us not, however," said he, "violate our faith,
or the laws of hospitality, by imbruing our hands in the
blood of those who are now in our power; they came to
us in the confidence of friendship, with belts of wampum
to cement a perpetual alliance with us. Let us carry
them back to their own settlements; conduct them safely
within their confines; and then take up the hatchet, and
[i94]

Appendix, N° j
"endeavour to exterminate the whole race of them." They
accordingly adopted this counsel; they conducted the am
bassadors safe to the confines; and as they could not obtain
satisfaction for the murder, by having the offender de
livered up to them, which they demanded, and which ought
to have been done, a dreadful war ensued, in which the dif
ferent tribes of the Cherokee nation became gradually in
volved; and which did not cease, or relax from its horrors,
till terminated by Col. Grant in the year 1 76 1, with still
more horrid circumstances than any that had been exer
cised during the carrying of it on.
This account was communicated to me by one of the
gentlemen engaged in the embassy.
Mr. Jefferson, in his History of Virginia, page 99, has
related the following circumstance, that occurred during
this awful and interesting transaction. Speaking of the
strict observance and fidelity of Indians in regard to their
promises and attachments, he says, in a note: "A remark-
"able instance of this, appeared in the case of the late Col.
"Byrd, who was sent to the Cherokee nation to transact
"some business with them. It happened that some of our
"disorderly people had killed one or two of that nation;
"it was therefore proposed in council that Col. Byrd
"should be put to death, in revenge for the loss of their
"countrymen. Among them was a chief called Silouee,
"who on some former occasion had contracted an acquaint
ance and friendship with Col. Byrd; he came to him every
"night in his tent, and told him not to be afraid, they should
"not kill him. After many days deliberation, however,
"the determination was, contrary to Silouee's expectation,
"that Byrd should be put to death, and some warriors were
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"dispatched as executioners. Silouee attended them, and
"when they entered the tent, he threw himself between
"them and Byrd, and said to the warriors, This man is my
friend, before you get at him you must kill me: — on which
"they returned, and the council respected the principle so
" much as to recede from their determination."

[196]

APPENDIX, N° 4.
THOMAS LORD FAIRFAX, descended from a very
ancient family in Yorkshire, was born towards the
latter end of the last century; I believe about the year 1691.
He was the eldest son of Thomas fifth Lord Fairfax, of
Cameron, in the kingdom of Scotland, by Catherine, only
daughter and heiress of Thomas Lord Culpepper; in whose
right he afterwards possessed Leeds Castle, with several
manors and estates in the county of Kent, and in the Isle
of Wight; and that immense tract of country, comprised
within the boundaries of the rivers Potowmac and Rappa-
hannoc in Virginia, called the Northern Neck; containing
by estimation five millions seven hundred thousand acres.
Lord Fairfax had the misfortune to lose his father while
young: and at his decease he and his two brothers, Henry
and Robert, and four sisters, one of whom, named Frances,
was afterwards married to Denny Martin, Esq., of Loose, in
Kent, came under the guardianship of their mother and
grandmother, the dowager Ladies Fairfax and Culpepper;
the latter of whom was a princess of the house of Hesse
Cassel. Lord Fairfax, at the usual age, was sent to the university
of Oxford to complete his education; and was highly
esteemed there for his learning and accomplishments. His
judgment upon literary subjects was then, and at other
times, frequently appealed to; and he was one of the writers
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of that incomparable work, the Spectator. After some
years residence in the university, he took a commission
in the regiment of horse, called the Blues, and remained in
it, I believe, till the death of the survivor of the two ladies
above mentioned; who had usually resided at Leeds Castle.
Some time before their decease, a circumstance happened,
that eventually occasioned him much serious chagrin and
uneasiness. He had been persuaded, upon his brother
Henry's arriving at the age of twenty-one years, or rather
compelled by the ladies Culpepper and Fairfax, under a
menace, in case of refusal, of never inheriting the Northern
Neck, to cut off the entail, and to sell Denton Hall, and the
Yorkshire estates, belonging to this branch of the Fairfax
family, which had been in their possession for five or six
centuries, in order to redeem those of the late Lord
Culpepper, that had descended to his heiress, exceedingly
encumbered, and deeply mortgaged. This circumstance hap
pened while Lord Fairfax was at Oxford, and is said to
have occasioned him the greater vexation, as it appeared
afterwards, that the estates had been disposed of, through
the treachery of a steward, for considerably less than their
value; less even than what the timber that was cut down to
discharge the purchase money, before the stipulated day
of payment came, was sold for. He conceived a violent
disgust against the ladies, who, as he used to say, had
treated him with such unparalleled cruelty; and ever after
wards expressed the keenest sense of the injury that had
been done, as he thought, to the Fairfax family. After en
tering into possession, he began to inquire into the value
and situation of his estates; and he soon discovered that the
proprietary lands in Virginia, had been extremely mis-
[198]

Appendix, N° 4.
managed and under-let. An agent, who at the same time
was a tenant, had been employed by the dowager Lady
Fairfax, to superintend her concerns in that quarter of the
world; and he is said to have abused her confidence, and to
have enriched himself and family, as is too frequently the
case, at the expense of his employer. Lord Fairfax there
fore wrote to William Fairfax, Esq., his father's brother's
second son, who held, at that time, a place of considerable
trust and emolument under government in New England;
requesting him to remove to Virginia, and to take upon
himself the agency of the Northern Neck. With this re
quest Mr. Fairfax readily complied; and, as soon as he con
veniently could, he removed with his family to Virginia,
and settled in Westmoreland county. He there opened
an agency office for the granting of the proprietary lands;
and as the quit-rent demanded was only after the rate of
two shillings for every hundred acres, the vacant lands were
rapidly let, and a considerable and permanent income was
soon derived from them. Lord Fairfax, informed of these
circumstances, determined to go himself to Virginia, to
visit his estates, and the friend and relation to whom he was
so greatly obliged. Accordingly, about the year 1739, he
embarked for that continent; and on his arrival in Virginia,
he went and spent twelve months with his friend Mr. Fair
fax, at his house in Westmoreland county; during which
time he became so captivated with the climate, the beauties
and produce of the country, that he formed a resolution of
returning to England, in order to prosecute a suit, which
he had with the Crown, on account of a considerable tract
of land claimed in behalf of the latter by Governor Gooch;
(which suit was afterwards determined in his favour;) and,
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after making some necessary arrangements, and settling
his family affairs, to return to Virginia, and spend the re
mainder of his life upon his vast and noble domain there.
I am not certain in what year this happened, or how long
Lord Fairfax remained in England. He was present at
his brother Robert's first marriage, which, according to
Mr. Hasted, [see Hist, of Kent, vol. II. page 478.] took
place in the year 1741; for he frequently mentioned the
fatigue he underwent in sitting up for a month together,
full dressed and in form to receive visits upon that occasion:
nor did he go back to Virginia before the year 1745, be
cause, when he arrived there, Mr. William Fairfax had
removed out of Westmoreland into Fairfax county, to a beau
tiful house which he had built upon the banks of the Potow
mac, a little below Mount Vernon, called Belvoir; which he
did not do previous to that time. In all probability there
fore, Lord Fairfax first went to America about the year
1739, returned to England the year following, and finally
settled in the Northern Neck in 1746, or 1747. On his re
turn he went to Belvoir, the seat of his friend and relation
Mr. William Fairfax, and remained several years in his
family, undertaking and directing the management of his
farms and plantations, and amusing himself with hunting,
and the pleasures of the field. At length, the lands about
Belvoir not answering his expectation, and the foxes be
coming less numerous, he determined to remove to a fine
tract of land on the western side of the Blue Ridge, or Apa
lachian mountains, in Frederic county, about eighty miles
from Belvoir; where he built a small neat house, which he
called Greenway Court; and laid out one of the most beau
tiful farms, consisting of arable and grazing lands, and of
[200]

Appendix, N° 4

meadows two or three miles in length, that had ever been
seen in that quarter of the world. He there lived the re
mainder of his life, in the style of a gentleman farmer; or, I
should rather have said, of an English country gentleman.
He kept many servants, white and black; several hunters;
a plentiful but plain table, entirely in the English fashion;
and his mansion was the mansion of hospitality. His
dress corresponded with his mode of life, and, notwithstand
ing he had every year new suits of clothes, of the most
fashionable and expensive kind, sent out to him from Eng
land, which he never put on, was plain in the extreme. His
manners were humble, modest, and unaffected; not tinctured
in the smallest degree with arrogance, pride, or self-conceit.
He was free from the selfish passions, and liberal almost
to excess. The produce of his farms, after the deduction
of what was necessary for the consumption of his own
family, was distributed and given away to the poor planters
and settlers in his neighborhood. To these he frequently
advanced money, to enable them to go on with their im
provements; to clear away the woods, and cultivate the
ground; and where the lands proved unfavourable, and not
likely to answer the labour and expectation of the planter
or husbandman, he usually indemnified him for the ex
pense he had been at in the attempt, and gratuitously
granted him fresh lands of a more favourable and promis
ing nature. He was a friend and a father to all who held
and lived under him; and as the great object of his ambi
tion was the peopling and cultivating of that fine and beau
tiful country, of which he was the proprietor, he sacrificed
every other pursuit, and made every other consideration
subordinate, to this great point. [201]

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Lord Fairfax had been brought up in revolution prin
ciples, and had early imbibed high notions of liberty, and of
the excellence of the British constitution. He devoted a
considerable part of his time to the public service. He was
Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotulorum of the county of
Frederic, presided at the county courts held at Winchester,
where during the sessions he always kept open table; and
acted as surveyor and overseer of the highways and public
roads. His chief if not sole amusement was hunting; and
in pursuit of this exercise he frequently carried his hounds to
distant parts of the country; and entertained every gentle
man of good character and decent appearance, who at
tended him in the field, at the inn or ordinary, where he
took up his residence for the hunting season. So unex
ceptionable and disinterested was his behaviour, both
public and private, and so generally was he beloved and re
spected, that during the late contest between Great Britain
and America, he never met with the least insult or molesta
tion from either party, but was suffered to go on in his im
provement and cultivation of the Northern Neck; a pursuit
equally calculated for the comfort and happiness of in
dividuals, and for the general good of mankind.
In the year 1751, Thomas Martin, Esq., second son of
his sister Frances, came over to Virginia to live with his
lordship; and a circumstance happened, a few years after
his arrival, too characteristic of Lord Fairfax not to be re
corded. After General Braddock's defeat in the year 1755,
the Indians in the interest of the French, committed the
most dreadful massacres upon all our back settlements.
Their incursions were everywhere stained with blood; and
slaughter and devastation marked the inroads of these cruel
[202]

Appendix, N° 4.
and merciless savages. Every planter of name or reputa
tion became an object of their insidious designs; and as
Lord Fairfax had been pointed out to them as a captain or
chief of great renown, the possession of his scalp became an
object of their sanguinary ambition, and what they would
have regarded as a trophy of inestimable value. With this
view they made daily inroads into the vicinage of Greenway
Court; and it is said, that not less than 3,000 lives fell sacri
fices to their cruel barbarity between the Appalachian and
Allegheny mountains.* The most serious apprehensions
were entertained for the safety of Lord Fairfax and the
family at Greenway Court. In this crisis of danger his
lordship, importuned by his friends and the principal gentry
of the colony to retire to the inner settlements for security,
is said to have addressed his nephew, who now bore the
commission of colonel of militia, nearly in the following
* It was at this crisis that the gentlemen of Virginia associated
themselves under the command of Peyton Randolph, Esq., after
wards President of the first Congress, for the protection of the
frontiers. The dismay occasioned by the ravages of the Indians
was indescribable. Upon one day in particular an universal panic
ran like wildfire through every part of Virginia; rumour report
ing that the Indians had passed the mountains, were entering
Williamsburg, and indeed every other town at the same moment,
had scalped all who came in their way, and that nothing but im
mediate flight could save the wretched inhabitants from destruc
tion. All was hurry and confusion, every one endeavouring to
escape death by flying from his own to some other town or planta
tion, where the alarm and consternation were equally great. At
length certain information was brought, that the Indians were still
beyond the mountains at least 150 miles off: and then, every one
began to wonder, as they did in London after the panic during the
rebellion of 1745, how it was possible that such an alarm could
have arisen; or whence it could have originated.
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manner: — "Colonel Martin, the danger we are exposed to,
'which is undoubtedly great, may possibly excite in your
'mind apprehension and anxiety. If so, I am ready to
'take any step that you may judge expedient for our com-
'mon safety. I myself am an old man, and it is of little
' importance whether I fall by the tomahawk of an Indian
'or by disease and old age: but you are young, and, it is to
'be hoped, may have many years before you. I will there-
' fore submit it to your decision, whether we shall remain
' where we are, taking every precaution to secure ourselves
'against the outrages of the enemy; or abandon our habi-
'tation and retire within the mountains, that we may be
'sheltered from the danger to which we are at present
'exposed. If we determine to remain, it is possible, not-
' withstanding our utmost care and vigilance, that we may
'both fall victims; if we retire, the whole district will im-
' mediately break up; and all the trouble and solicitude
'which I have undergone to settle this fine country will be
'frustrated; and the occasion perhaps irrecoverably lost."
Colonel Martin, after a short deliberation, determined to
remain, and as our affairs in that quarter soon took a more
favourable turn, and measures were adopted by govern
ment for securing our settlements against the carnage and
depredation of the Indians, the danger gradually diminished,
and at length entirely disappeared. From that time to the
present little or no molestation has been given to the back
settlements of the Northern Neck, extending from the
Appalachian to the Allegheny mountains.
Lord Fairfax, though possessed of innumerable good
qualities, had some few singularities in his character, that
occasionally exposed him to the smiles of the ignorant: but
[204]

Appendix, N° 4.
they resembled the solar spots, which can scarcely be said
to diminish the splendor of that bright luminary upon
whose disk they appear. Early in life he had formed an
attachment to a young lady of quality; and matters had
proceeded so far, as to induce him to provide carriages,
clothes, servants, and other necessary appendages for such
an occasion. Unfortunately, or rather let me say for
tunately, before the contract was sealed, a more advan
tageous or dazzling offer was made to the lady, who thought
herself at liberty to accept it; and she preferred the higher
honour of being a duchess to the inferior station of a
baroness. This disappointment is thought to have made
a deep impression upon Lord Fairfax's mind; and to have
had no inconsiderable share in determining him to retire
from the world, and to settle in the wild and at that time
almost uninhabited forests of North America. It is thought
also to have excited in him a general dislike of the sex; in
whose company, unless he was particularly acquainted with
the parties, it is said he was reserved and under evident
constraint and embarrassment. But I was present, when,
upon a visit of ceremony to Lieutenant Governor Fauquier,
who had lately arrived from England, he was introduced to
his lady, and nothing of the kind appeared to justify the
observation. He remained at the palace three or four
days; and during that time his behaviour was courteous,
polite, and becoming a man of fashion. He possibly might
not entertain a very favourable opinion of the sex; owing
partly to the above mentioned circumstance, and partly to
the treatment he had experienced from the ladies of Leeds
Castle; but this does not seem to have influenced his gen
eral behaviour in regard to them. He had lived many
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years retired from the world, in a remote wilderness, se
questered from all polished society; and perhaps might not
feel himself perfectly at ease, when he came into large
parties of ladies, where ceremony and form were to be ob
served; but he had not forgot those accomplished manners
which he had acquired in his early youth; at Leeds Castle,
at the university, and in the army. His motive for settling
in America was of the most noble and heroic kind. It was,
as he always himself declared, to settle and cultivate that
beautiful and immense tract of country, of which he was the
proprietor; and in this he succeeded beyond his most san
guine expectations, for the Northern Neck was better
peopled, better cultivated, and more improved, than any
other part of the dominion of Virginia. Lord Fairfax lived
to extreme old age at Greenway Court, universally beloved,
and died as universally lamented, in January or February
1782, in the 92d year of his age. He was buried I believe
at Winchester, where he had so often and so honourably
presided as judge of the court. He bequeathed Greenway
Court to his nephew Colonel Martin, who has since con
stantly resided there; and his barony descended to his only
surviving brother Robert Fairfax, to whom he had before
consigned Leeds Castle, and his other English estates.
Robert, seventh Lord Fairfax, died at Leeds Castle in
1 79 1, and bequeathed that noble mansion, and its appen
dages, to his nephew the reverend Denny Martin, who has
since taken the name of Fairfax, and is still living.
The barony or title by regular descent is vested in Brian
Fairfax, third son of William Fairfax above mentioned,
who lives in Virginia; and of whom more will be said in the
sequel. [206]

Appendix, N° 4.
Having so frequently mentioned William Fairfax, Esquire,
who came from New England, to take upon himself the
agency of the Northern Neck, it may not be unacceptable
to the reader, to learn something of the history of that
worthy and respectable gentleman; and of the several
branches of the Fairfax family descended from him, who
are now settled in Virginia. William Fairfax, was the
second son of the honourable Henry Fairfax of Towlston
Hall, in Yorkshire. This gentleman's father Henry, fourth
Lord Fairfax, left, besides other children, two sons, viz.
Thomas, who succeeded him in the barony, and who
married the heiress of the Culpepper family; and Henry,
father of William, of whom I am now speaking. William,
his father dying while he was young, was educated under
the auspices of his uncle and godfather, the good Lord Lons
dale, at Lowther school, in Westmoreland; where he ac
quired a competent knowledge, not only of the classics, but
of the modern languages. At the age of twenty-one he
entered into the army, and served in Spain during Queen
Anne's war, under his uncle Colonel Martin Bladen, to
whom he was also secretary. At the conclusion of that war,
he was prevailed upon to accompany captain Fairfax of
the navy, who was also his relation, and other godfather,
to the East Indies; but the sea not agreeing with him, he at
his return took a second commission in the army, and went
upon the expedition against the Island of Providence, at
that time in possession of pirates. After the reduction of
the island, he was appointed governor of it, and he there
married, March the 27th, 1723-4, Sarah, daughter of
Major Thomas Walker, who, with his family had accom
panied the expedition, and was afterwards appointed chief
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justice of the Bahama Islands. By this lady he had a son,
born the 2d of January following, whom he named George
William. His health suffering extremely at this place,
from the intense heat of the climate, he applied to govern
ment for an appointment in New England, and he had
removed to that country, and was there resident, when solic
ited by Lord Fairfax, to take upon himself the agency of
the Northern Neck. During his abode in New England,
he had the misfortune to lose his lady, by whom he had two
sons and two daughters : George William, mentioned above,
who was born in the Island of Providence; and Thomas,
Anne and Sarah, born in New England.
Mrs. Fairfax, upon her death-bed, requested her hus
band, after her decease, to marry a Miss Deborah Clarke
of Salem, a lady of uncommon understanding, and her
most intimate friend; from a conviction, which appeared
to be well founded, that she would prove a kind step-mother,
and faithful guardian to her orphan children. Accord
ingly Mr. Fairfax, in compliance with this request, some
little time before he removed to Virginia, espoused this lady,
and by her had three other children, viz. two sons and a
daughter, named Brian, William, and Hannah; so that he
had in the whole seven children, four sons and three
daughters, most of whom survived him. He departed this
life at Belvoir, the 3d day of September 1757, aged sixty-
six years. Mr. William Fairfax was a gentleman of very
fine accomplishments, and general good character. He
was a kind husband, an indulgent parent, a faithful friend,
a sincere Christian; and was eminently distinguished for
his private and public virtues. Through the interest of two
of his relations, Brian and Ferdinando Fairfax, who lived
[208]

¦ Appendix, N° 4.
in London, and of whom the former was a commissioner of
the excise, he had been appointed Lord Lieutenant and
Custos Rotulorum of the county of Fairfax, collector of the
customs of South Potomac, and one of his majesty's
council; of which, in process of time, he became president,
and continued in that honourable station many years. He
was succeeded in his estate and employments by his eldest
son, George William Fairfax. George William, at an early
age, had been sent to England for education, and had been
brought up in the same principles which had been professed
by Lord Fairfax, and the rest of the family. At his return to
Virginia, he married Sarah, daughter of Colonel Cary, of
Hampton, upon James river, of the family of Hunsdon;
and usually resided at his beautiful place at Belvoir, ex
cept during the sessions of the assembly and of the general
courts, when his duty, as one of his majesty's council,
obliged him to be at Williamsburg.
In the year 1773, some estates in Yorkshire having de
volved to him by the death of Henry, his father's elder
brother, he found it necessary to go to England to take
possession of them. So critical was his arrival, that he
passed in the river Thames the ill-omened tea, which
eventually occasioned the separation of the American colo
nies from the mother-country. During the ten years contest,
the consequences of which Mr. Fairfax early foresaw and
lamented, his estates in Virginia were sequestered, and he
received no remittances from his extensive property in that
quarter of the world. This induced him to remove out of
Yorkshire, from a house which he had recently furnished,
to lay down his carriages, and to retire to Bath, where he
lived in a private but genteel manner; and confined his ex-
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penses so much within the income of his English estates,
that he was able occasionally to send large sums to the
government agent, for the use and benefit of the American
prisoners. He died at Bath, generally lamented on account
of his many virtues and accomplishments, on the 3d of
April 1787, in the sixty-third year of his age; and was buried
in Writhlington church, in the county of Somerset, a few
miles distant from that city. He left a widow, a very
amiable lady, of distinguished merit, in great affluence;
who has ever since resided in Bath. Having no issue, he
bequeathed his Virginia estates to Ferdinando, the second
son of his half-brother Brian, the present Lord Fairfax.
Thomas, second son of William Fairfax, by Sarah Walker,
and own brother to the above, entered into the navy; and
was killed in an action in the East Indies on the 26th of
June 1746. He was esteemed one of the handsomest men
of his age. The following inscription to his memory was
written by his disconsolate father, a few hours after he had
received the melancholy account of his death:
" To the memory of Mr. Thomas Fairfax, second son of
'William Fairfax, Esquire; who died, fighting in his coun
try's cause, on board the Harwich ship of war, in an en-
'gagement with Monsieur Bourdenaye, commander of a
'French squadron on the Indian coast, the 26th day of
'June 1746, and in the twenty-first year of his age; beloved
' of his commander, Captain Carteret, and highly favoured
'by his friend Commodore Barnet, for his politeness of
'manners. He was a comely personage; of undoubted
'bravery; skilled in the theory of the profession; excelled
'by few as a naval draughtsman; and gave early promises,
' by a pregnant genius and diligent application, of a con-
[210]

Appendix, N° 4.
"summate officer for the service of his country. But the
"wisdom of Heaven is inscrutable: human life is ever in
"the hands of its author: and while the good and brave are
"always ready for death, resignation becomes their sur
viving friends. Convinced of this duty, yet subdued by
"the sentiments of a tender parent, this tablet was inscribed
''and dedicated by his sorrowful father:
"May, Britain, all thy sons like him behave;
"Like him be virtuous, and like him be brave:
"Thy fiercest foes undaunted he withstood,
"And perish'd fighting for his country's good."
Anne, eldest daughter of William Fairfax, by Sarah
Walker, was married to Lawrence, elder brother of Colonel,
now General Washington. Lawrence, who had been edu
cated in England, was a captain in the army, and possessed
a very considerable landed property in Virginia. An in
fant daughter was the only fruit of this marriage, who died
under seven years of age. At her decease, her father being
also dead, General Washington succeeded to Mount Vernon,
and several fine Virginian estates, the property of this
branch of the Washington family. Anne, after the death
of Lawrence Washington her husband, married George
Lee, Esquire, the head of that numerous family in Virginia;
and left behind her three sons, who are now living, viz.
George Fairfax Lee, Launcelot Lee, and William Lee.
Sarah, second daughter of William Fairfax by Sarah
Walker, was married to Mr. Carlyle, a merchant of Alex
andria, in Fairfax county, and left two daughters; the eldest
married to Mr. Herbert, a merchant of the same place; the
younger to Mr. Whiteing, a private gentleman of good
[211]

Travels Through North America
fortune. Mrs. Whiteing died in childbed of her first child,
a son, who is now living.
Brian, eldest son of the second marriage of William Fair
fax with Deborah Clarke, the present and eighth baron,
married Elizabeth, youngest daughter of Wilson Cary,
Esquire, of the family above mentioned, and lives upon his
estate at a place called Towlston, in Fairfax county. He
has, by this marriage, two sons, viz. Thomas and Ferdi-
nando, and one daughter, named Elizabeth, married to
Mr. Griffith, the son of an American bishop. He has also
a daughter by a second marriage. Thomas has been twice
married, but has had the misfortune to lose both his wives,
precisely at the same period of time, viz. the end of three
months, by sickness and other indisposition, attendant upon
pregnancy. Ferdinando, heir, as was above mentioned,
to George William Fairfax, married a daughter of Wilson
Miles Cary, Esquire, brother to the widow of the said
George William, which marriage made the fifth connection
between the families of Fairfax and Cary, either in England
or Virginia.
William Fairfax, fourth son of William Fairfax, and the
second by his second marriage, was educated at Wakefield
school, in Yorkshire; served in the army, and was killed at
the siege of Quebec. He was a young man of very promis
ing abilities, and much esteemed by General Wolfe. When
the general landed, he saw young Fairfax sitting upon the
bank of the river; and immediately running up to him, he
clapped him on the shoulder, and said, "Young man, when
"we come to action, remember your name." Alas! they
unfortunately both fell in the space of a few hours.
Hannah, youngest child of William Fairfax by his second
[212]

Appendix, N° 4

marriage, is married to Warner Washington, eldest son of
General Washington's father's eldest brother, and the head
of that now illustrious family. She has two sons and four
daughters; all, except the youngest daughter, married to
persons of condition and distinction in Virginia.
These anecdotes of the several branches of the Fairfax
family, now domiciliated in Virginia, may, perhaps, not be
unacceptable to the reader, and especially to the friends of
that noble family. They are, I believe, correct, and may
be relied upon. I received them from unquestionable
authority, from a person intimately connected with the
family; who, from repeated conversations with Thomas,
late Lord Fairfax; Mr. William Fairfax; his son George
William; Mrs. Mary Sherrard, first cousin to Thomas Lord
Fairfax, and aunt to the present Earl of Harborough; Lady
Lucy Sherrard; and many noble relatives of the family re
siding in the north of England; was well qualified to give
the information.

[«3l

Appendix, N° 5.

DIARY

OF THE

WEATHER

Travels Through North America

Fahrenheit's
Thermometer.

7-

4NUARY, 1760.

96857565 55
45 3220 12

Vital

<
Q

11

wX
H

QZ

Weather.

Eh n

I
2345 6 7
89
10
11 121315161718 19
2021 222324 25
2627 28293°31

8

10 10
202634
364936 23 19
25 3°25
40 2434 3424

N.W.N.W. N.W.
N.W. S.W.
S.W.S. E.
N. E.
N.W.N. E.
S.W.S.W.S. E.
S.W.S.W.
N.W. S.W.
N.W.

Quite clear.
Clouded.
Snow. Rain and freezing hard.
A thaw.
A thaw.
Rain.Rain.Quite clear.
Quite clear.
Quite clear.
Quite clear.
Quite clear.
Rain.
Quite clear.
Little cloudy.
Cloudy.Quite clear.

heat.Very

hot.
Hot.

Warm

air.
Temper

ate.
Cold
air.
Frost.
Hard
frost.
Frost 1740.
Frost 1709.
[216]
Appendix, N° 5

FEBRUARY, 1760.

o o
ffis;

X
H

Weather.

1
2345 6 7
89
10
111213 1516 1718 '9
20 2122232425 26272829

3°26

3i
4649464933 3837
28 5256
33 3534222534
41 493640
45 5359'49
42

S.W.S. E.
N.W.S. E.
S.
E.
S.W.
N. E.
E.
N. E.
N.
S.W.
S.W.S.W. N.N.
N.W.
N.W. S.W.
S. E.
S.
W.
N.W. S.W.
S. E.
S.
N. E.
N. E.
N. E.

Sleet and rain.
Quite clear.
Quite clear.
Quite clear.
Clouded.Little clouded 
Quite clear 
Quite clear 
Quite clear.
Clouded 
Quite clear.
Quite clear.
Little clouded 
Hazy 
Misting rain.
Little cloudy.
Clouded, little snow
Quite clear 
Quite clear 
Hazy 
Hazy 
Quite clear 
Quite clear.
Little cloudy.
Quite clear 
Hazy 
Clouded 
Clouded 
Rain 

62 6258
5266 70

3°
43 48 64
56

56 7276
54
37

[217]

Travels Through North America

MARCH, 1760.

D

a G
o o
ffiS

Weather.

I
2
34 56 789
10111213 14 151617 1819
202122 232425 26
27 28 293°31

3234
40 5i
403545 483532 32 35
49 4537 3°26273941293639 45494i4353 6457
66

E.
N.
N. E.
S.W. W.
S.W.S.W. S.W. N. W.
N. E.
S. E.
S.E.
N. E.
N.E. N.
N.W.N.W.S.W. N.W.
N.E.N.E. E. E.
S.E.
N.W.S.W.S.W.S.W. S.W. w.

Clouded.Little cloudy.
Clouded 
Showery and windy . . .
Little cloudy and windy
Quite clear 
Hazy 
Rain 
Misting rain 
Clouded 
Little cloudy 
Clouded 
Rain 
Misting rain 
Clouded 
Thick snow 
Snow 
Quite clear 
Clouded 
Cloudy 
Snow 
Rain 
Little cloudy 
Little cloudy 
Little cloudy 
Quite clear 
Quite clear 
Quite clear 
Hazy 
Rain 
Showery 

[218]

Appendix, N° JT

APRIL, 1760.

<
a

as

Weather.

I
2345 6789
1011 12
131516171819
202122232425 2627
28293°

49 5°616570
575°474564
445353 677°
48 5345
5559 6465
6569707477
70
65 62

N.W. S.
S.W. S.E. W. E.
N.W.
N.E. N.E.S.W.
N.E.
N.E. S.E.S.W.S.W.N.W.S.E.N.E. W.
S.W. E.
S.E.S.W.
S.E. S.E.
S.W.S.W.S.W. N.W.
N.W.

Quite clear 
Quite clear 
Clouded 
Quite clear 
Quite clear, thunder . .
Clouded 
Thunder, clouded
Thunder, clouded
Clouded 
Little cloudy, thunder
Small rain 
Little cloudy 
Clouded 
Little cloudy 
Cloudy, thunder 
Little cloudy 
Clouded 
Clouded 
Quite clear 
Quite clear, thunder .
Quite clear 
Clouded 
Cloudy and showers . .
Quite clear 
Quite clear. 
Quite clear 
Quite clear, thunder . .
Quite clear 
Quite clear 
Quite clear 

1 219]

Travels Through North America

MAY, 1760.

00
MS

z

Weather.

I
2
3
456 7
89
10
n12J314151617
18J9
20212223 24
2526 27
2829
3031

5°
565264
65586060727i
65 58
6068 6773
78746866726458 73
7i76
616464697i

N.W.
N.E. W.
S.W.S.W.
N.E.
N.E. S.E.S.W.S.W.
N.E.N.E. S.W.
N.W. W.
S.W.S.W. w.
N.W.
N.W.N.E.N.E.N.E. W.
N.W.

Quite clear 
Little cloudy 
Quite clear 
Quite clear 
Foggy, little rain . .
Clouded 
Quite clear 
Quite clear 
Quite clear 
Quite clear, thunder
Little cloudy 
Rain, thunder 
Cloudy, thunder . . .
Cloudy 
Little cloudy 
Clouded, little rain .
Little cloudy 
Cloudy, thunder . . .
Cloudy 
Little cloudy 
Quite clear 
Rain, thunder 
Clouded 
Rain, thunder 
Quite clear 
Thunder 

[220]

Appendix, N° JT

JUNE, 1760.

ffig

z

Weather.

ffi w

I
23 45 678 9
10 11 1213H 151617 18'9
20 212223 2425262829 3°

7777
8083 62656567 705574 78
80 82
86 9078 73
66 78807368 72
76 7376
80 8175

Thunder Rain
Thunder

Ra

ThunderThunder .
High wind

Rain, thunder

Thunder.

8083

7063 737875 7581 89878991 908775 758389 75
80 7879
80 80858383

[221]

Travels Through North America

JULY, 1760.

0

0 0

s
H

?
z

Weather.

1
2
34 56789
10
11121314
1516171819
202122
232425262728293°3i

8

807581
87 7572727173
758484
8687 87
83 77
758077 75
80848889867874808072



Thunder 

8682
899276
7880788380
86889292
9183 8184837887889393948880 778182 78

Thunder 

Small rain 
Thunder 
Rain 
[222]
Appendix, N° 5

AUGUST, 1760.

><
fi

" a
tea

aw8

Weather.

0 ^*
ffi ri

1
23
456 7
8 9
10 11
1213141516171819
202122232425262728293°
3i

8

777775
7374
8385
85878789
8990
808479
848083787278
7677
83768472
31



84
8l7878
848990
9'929193
94948688
87868888«3798384
84 86
838978
96

Rain 

Rain 
Thunder 
Thunder 
Thunder 
Rain 
Thunder 
Rain 
Thunder 
[223]
Travels Through North America

SEPTEMBER, 1760.

<

a S
MS

us
H

z

Weather.

1*
ffi «

I
2
34567
8 9
10111213141516'7
1819
202122
23242526272829
30

8

8578
8380 70
737375
808080807669827i67
55645249637i
6252525864
59 58



Thunder 

88
808882
76 7878
818687
868378809172
726268656476797064697' 77
6767

Thunder 

A shower 
A shower 
Rain 
Rain 
[224]
Appendix, N° $

OCTOBER, 1760.

<
a

H
X
H

6

Weather.

ffi w

1
23456 789
10 11
12 13H1516 171819
2021 22232425262728293°3i

8

54 54
5557585757586262
625° 6270
4949
45 5°5450
484342635°
48 5°
4545433°



6367 7073
63
57 5967687070
66 7868
60 59
6268 70
53
59 5760 7i
58 6963
60
4349

[225]
Travels Through North America

NOVEMBER, 1760.

ffiS

z

Weather.

I
2
3
4
5 6
789
10
1112131516
171819
202122
232425
262728
293°

43

47505°54
40 35
3°43424030
4233252735
362838
484849
5i4i36
33

Little snow
Little rain .
Rain 
Rain 

[226]

Appendix, N° 5

1
2345 67
8 9
10111213H1516171819
2021222324
25262728293°31

3 M
O O

DECEMBER, 1760.

30344i5i
38 35383544
5540
44 29
32
48 63
273°2124
44 3225
233242
42
442724

z

Weather.

Rain 
Rain 
Rain 
Rain 
Snow 
Rain 
Misting rain
Rain 

§3
ffi ri
464947564746
48454957555i
46476569
35
32 34
3855
44
3738
53 54
443535

[227]

*J iLJ td

Travels Through North America

JANUARY, 1761.

1
23
4 5
67
89
10
1112
J3H1516
17 18
19
20 21
222324
25262728293°3'

00
ffiSi

29
26
27 10

2323
27 21 5
1815
2836283i
342842
32 22
34 24
3549
443246
46

N.W.
N.W.N.W. N.E. N.
N.E. N.
S.W. N.
N.W. N.
N.W. N.
N.W. W.
N.E. S.W. w.
S.W.S.W.
N.W.N.W. W.
N.E.S.W. S.
N.E.
N.E. S.
N.W.

Weather.

Clear 
Snow 
Flying clouds.
Clear 
Snow 
Snow 
CloudedCloudedClouded
Clouded ....
Rain 
Flying clouds
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Clouded ....
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Clouded ....
Clouded ....
Clouded ....
Flying clouds

°1
ffi (1

35
32 !9
2928
2633
4i323225
2133
444i294444
5454343638325864
4948 6248

[228]

Appendix, N° J

FEBRUARY, 1761.

o o
ffis:

z

Weather.

§5
k ri

1
234 5
6 7
89
10
111213H
'5 16
1718•9
20
21 22
23242526
27 28

24343°22 15
23
4557
383437
35403938
373535365i
493629
2231
49
3835

N.W. S.W.
N.E.
N.W.N.W. N.E. S.
S.W.
N.E.
N.E.N.E.N.E.
N.E.N.E.N.E.N.E.
N.W. S.E.
S.W.S.W. W.
N.W. N.
N.W. S.W.S.W. S.E.
N.W.

Cloudy 
Little snow .
Flying clouds
Cloudy 
CloudedCloudy 
Flying clouds
Rain 
CloudedRain 
Clouded
Misting rain
Rain 
Rain 
Flying clouds
Clouded ....
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Hazy 
Rain 
Sleet 

32643°2624
3660
6437
474054
42403545605967
57
45 3535
52 67
4040

[229]

j |i

Travels Through North America

MARCH, 1761.

o o
ffiS

Weather.

I
234 56789
101112131415 16
17 1819
20
21 22232425 26 2728293°31

2828
323842333i3333365°4343 3529354345 61
4746 6053
45 47 5463 6268 61
48

N.W. N.E. W.W.
S.W.
N.W. N.E.
N.W.N.W. S.W. W.
S.W.
N.E. N.
N.W. S.W.N.E.
S.E.
N.E.N.E. S.W. s.
N.N.
N.E. S.
S.W. S.W. s.
S.W. E.

Flying clouds
Clouded
Snow 
Clouded
Clouded Snow 
Clouded Clouded
Clouded CloudedCloudedCloudedCloudedCloudedCloudedCloudedClouded Hazy 
Hazy 
Hazy 
Hazy 
Clouded

3743
4248563832
474355 6060
425°385848 707i5365 78575256 7483 8286 7865

[230]

Appendix, N° J"

APRIL, 1761.

1
2 3456 78
9
1011 1213•4 151617 1819
20 21222324252627282930

KS

58
55
61
63
5°35
495760
4747465i576974575i626874
56 66737i
646970
56

Weather.

N.E. S.E. S.S.
N.
N.W. S.E. S.
E.
N.E. S.E.
N.E. S.E. S.
S.W.S.W.
N.W. N.E.S.W. S.W.
S.W. S.E.
S.W. N.
S.W.
N.E. S. S.

Hazy 
Cloudy 
Cloudy, thunder
Rain 
Cloudy 
Clouded 
Rain 
Rain 
Rain 
Clouded 
Clouded 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds 
High wind 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Misting rain, thunder,
Flying clouds 
Clouded 
Flying clouds 
Rain 
Little rain 
Little rain 

ffi ri

70
69 75
7357
466669575°
525i667783866560758282617874
84 74
8650

[231]

Travels Through North America

MAY, 1761.

<

0 5

z

Weather.

ffi N

I
2
3
45678
9
10 11
12'3
15161718 19
20
212223242526
27 2829
303i

5855
5865
6057
5253 55
5460687060617375
836760

80

54586481

N.W. N.E. S.
N.W. N.E.N.E. E.E.
S.E.S.E. S.
S.E.
N.E.
N.W. S.E. S.
S.W.
N.W.N.W.

S.W.
N.E.
N.W.

Flying clouds . .
Rain 
Clouded, thunder
Flying clouds . .
Clouded 
Rain 
High wind, rain
Rain 
Rain 
Clouded 
Showery 
Showery 
Clouded 
Flying clouds . . .
Flying clouds . . .
Cloudy, thunder .
Flying clouds . . .
Little rain 
Clouded 
Flying clouds . . .

6964
678069
63545357
64 67
80 73
63 73
8089
87 76
67

89

60 6483

[232]

Appendix, N° J

JUNE, 1761.

><
0

a 2
ffi2

us
H

aZ

Weather.

Hour 2.
After.

1
2
3 456789
10111213H1516
1718'9
2021222324252627
28293°

8

6064 75
7564647068687375
77798585
8588
868660607i
768184
8989
9i89
89

N.W. N.E. E. S.
N.W. N.E. S.E. E.E.
N.E. E.
S.E. S.
S.W.S.W.
N.E.N.E.
S.W. S.W.
N.E.N.E.N.E. N. S.
S.W.
S.W. S.W. s.
S.W.
S.W.

7°
74787172
7672727676
82868787878888
9i61637379
8585
8992979792

Flyine clouds 

Flying clouds 

Misting rain 

Flying clouds 

Flyine clouds 

Clouded 

Little rain 

Clouded 
Flyine clouds 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Flyine clouds 
Clouded, thunder 
Rain 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds, thunder . .
[233]
Travels Through North America

JULY, 1761.

I
23456789
10
1112 13141516171819
2021222324 2526272829
3°3i

ffiS

87
909192939587
92 898362 7079
80 849089949i 9i93728280 7274
86908679

S.W. S.
S.
S.W. S. s.
S.W.S.W.S.W.S.W.N.E. E.
S.E. E.
S.W. S.
S.E. S.W.S.W. S.W.
S.W.N.E. S.W.
N.E.N.E. S.W. S.W. S.W.
N.E.N.E.S.W.

Weather.

Cloudy, thunder 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Clouded 
Clouded, thunder ....
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds, thunder
Showery 
Cloudy, thunder 
Small rain 
Flying clouds 

Flying clouds

Flying clouds . .
Flying clouds . .
Flying clouds . .
Cloudy, thunder
Clouded 
Clear, thunder .
Clouded 
 thunder
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Clouded 
Flying clouds . . .

Flying clouds

[234]

Appendix, N° 5

AUGUST, 1761.

ffiS

z

Weather.

§3
ca ri

1
23
4 56789
101112 •3H15
16 1718'9
20 21
2223242526
2728293°
3i

85
8185

8586908988897475
6664
656665
697i
7872
75

S.W.S.W. E.
W.

S.W.S.W.S.W.S.W.S.W.S.W.
N.E.
N.E.N.E.
N.W. N. N.
N.
N.W.
N.W. W.
S.W.
N.W.

Cloudy, thunder
Clouded, thunder
Flying clouds
Flying clouds . .

Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds, thunder
Clouded 
Rain 
Clouded 
Rain 
Clouded 
Clouded 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 

9i8985 9i93

9793
939494 94
95 7476
77707'72
7478
818386
83

[235]

Travels Through North America

SEPTEMBER, 1761.

1
234 5
678
9
10111213H1516
1718
19
2021
22
2324
2526
27
2829
3°

« a

a

a S

w

MS
H
£
8
70
N.W.
—
69
N.E.
—
66
N.W.
—
61
N.W.
—
66
W.
—
7i
S.W.
—
67
N.
—
64
N.W.
—
7i
S.W.
—
73
S.W.
—
62
N.W.
—
63
N.W.
—
64
N.W.
—
69
S.W.
—
6S
N.E.
—
62
N.E.
—
6S
S.W.
—
66
N.W.
—
70
S.W.
—
70
S.E.
—
68
N.E.
—
65
N.E.
—
75
S.E.
—
72
S.E.
—
81
S.
—
72
S.
—
74
S.
—
76
s.
—
72
S.E.
74
S.E.
Weather.
Cloudy 
Rain 
Clouded 
Clouded 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds . . .
Flying clouds, rain
Cloudy 
Clouded 
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Clouded 
Rain 
Rain 
Rain 
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Clouded 
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Cloudy 
[236]
Appendix, N° $

OCTOBER, 1761.

a 5
MS

z

Weather.

1
234 56 789
10
1112 1314151617 18'9
2021222324 25262728293°3i

70676763
65 677073635353 5i
464647
47 535556586667
4745 4545 50
4543 505i

N.E. N.N.N.N.
S.E. S. S.
N.E.
N.E.N.E.N.E.
N.W. N.
N.W. N.
W.
S.W.S.W.S.E. E.
S.E.
N.W. S.W. W.
N.W. N.W.N.W. N.E. S.W.
S.W.

Small rain . .
Small rain . .
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Rain 
Rain 
Clouded ....
Rain 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Rain 
Rain 
Flying clouds
Clouded ....
Clouded ....
Clouded ....
Flying clouds
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds

71
7° 7§7i
75
768183 58
60525656 575760
68 70
72 72
7i 58
46 5858585751 59
59 &5

[237]

Travels Through North America

NOVEMBER, 1761.

<
a

o o
ffig

z

Weather.

I
2
3
456
7
89
10
111213H15
161718'9
20
21222324
25262728
29
30

56
43
435°
46
44353030
3535
35

353540
454i363535
34 5°
3529
4749
43

N.E.
N.W.
N.W. S.E.
N.W.N.W.N.W.N.W.

N.W.
N.W.N.W.N.W. S.W.S.W.
N.W. N.
S.W.
N.E. S.
N.W.N.W. S.
S.W.N.E.

Rain 
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Rain 
Flying clouds
Clouded
CloudedCloudedFlying clouds
Rain 
Small rain . .
F°ggy 
Rain 
Cloudy 
Rain 
Clouded ....
Cloudy 

[238]

Appendix, N° 5

DECEMBER, 1761.

<
fi

ffiS

X

z

Weather.

§5
ffi ri

I
2
34 5678 9
10 11
121314 151617 18 19
20212223 24 2526272829 3°3i

4i323536
383° 262134
20 12
34 34
323422 26 '9
20263°36202737 10 7
!5
26273°

N.W.N.W. N. E.S.
N.W.N.W. N.W. W.
N.W.N.W. S.W. N.
N.E.N.E.
N.W. S.W.
N.W. N.E. S.W.
N.W. S.W.
N.W. N.W. S.W.
N.W.N.W.
N.W. S.W.S.W.S.W.

Clouded 
Cloudy 
Rain 
Rain, high wind
Little snow . . .
Rain and snow
Clouded 
Rain 
Rain 
Clouded 
Clouded 
Little snow . . .
Clouded 
Clouded 
Cloudy 
Snow, rain ....
Flying clouds .
Flying clouds .

49484545 52
3434342032473838373°
43 25
30 3949304i 1919
3742 45 48

[239]

Travels Through North America

JANUARY, 1762.

<
a

1
2
345678
9
10
111213 H
15 161718
19
20
21 222324252627
2829
3°3i

3 5
00
MS

3° 15 13
3°393945
5i 503°
3° 25
34 35
40 5040
40 55
33 26303620 19

z

N.
N.W. N.E. N.
N.E.N.E.
N.E. S.
S.W. N. N.
N.
S.W. N.
S.W.
N.E.N.E.
N.E. S.W.
N.W.N.W. N.E. W.
N.W.
N.W.

Weather.

Cloudy 
Thick fog . . .
Clouded
Thick fog . . .
Thick fog . . .
Thick fog . . .
Clouded
Snow 
Clouded Misting rain
Misting rain
Misting rain
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Rain 

ffi ri

34
48 42
465453 64
6556
3°394551556439
4541 54
45404i43 29
37

[240]

Appendix, N° j"

i
23456 7
89
10n12
'3H15
161718'9
202122
232425
2627
28

o o
ffiS

FEBRUARY, 1762.

28
33
464544403932
3532
32
3i31
3i32
424236
45342636
3523 24
22
30

N.W. S.W. w. S.
w.
N.E. N.
N.W. N.E.
N.W.
N.W.
N.W. N.E.
N.W. N.E.S.W.
N.W. W.w.
N.W.N.W. S.W.
N.W.N.W.N.W.
N.W.N.W.

Weather.

Clouded

Cloudy 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds, thunder

Cloudy, thunder
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Snow, rain 
Clouded 

Cloudy

Flying clouds
Small rain . .

HazyHazy

Hazy . .
Clouded

Flying clouds

§3
ffi ri

404053
59 60
53
5°474236
42
4248
4947
46
48
484936
45
45263°
32
3i

[241]

Travels Through North America

MARCH, 1762.

<

5 a

z

Weather.

I
23
4 567
89
10
11 1213
14
1516171819
202122
23242526
2728
29
303i

28
34
263632
3539373333374135
3229
343956
3443474235
444138
445358
44
41

N.W.N.W.
N.W. W.
N.E.N.E. E.
N.E.
N.W.N.W. W.
S.E.
N.W.N.W. N.
S.W.S.W.
N.E. S.E. S.
N.W. N.E. S.E.
N.E.
N.E. S.S.
S.W. N.E. N.E.

Hazy, rain . .
CloudedFlying clouds
Flying clouds
Rain 
Rain 
Rain 
Cloudy 
Little snow .
Cloudy 
Small rain . .
Flying clouds
Rain 
Small rain . .
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Hazy 
Clouded ....
Flying clouds
Cloudy 
Rain 

[242]

Appendix, N° 5

APRIL, 1762.

as

£

I
23 4 56 7
8 9
1011 12'3 14 151617 18 19
2021 22232425 2627 28293°

4443524446614546 45 49526163
4545 5°5°5°564242 5°565663 68636056 7i

S.E.
N.E. S.
N.E. S.E. S.
S.E.S.E.
N.W. N.W. S.W.S.W.S.W.
N.E.N.E.S.W.
N.W. S.W. N.
N.E.
N.W.N.W. S.E.S.E. S.
S.W. N.
N.E. S.W.
S.W.

Weather.

Flying clouds .
Rain 
Cloudy 
Clouded 
Clouded 
Cloudy 
Hazy 
Hazy 
Hazy 
Rain 
Cloudy 
Clouded 
Rain 
Clouded 
Cloudy 
Hazy 
Hazy, thunder

[243]

Travels Through North America

MAY, 1762.

<
Q

o o
ffig

Weather.

ffiri

I
2
3
4567
89
10
11121314
1516
171819
20
2122
232425
262728
29
30
31

72
58
5353 56
57565964
63
5659695656667°
7475767875
7776
8078
806565
697i

S.W.
N.E.N.E.
N.E. S.W.S.W. N. E. S.
N.E. S.
S.W.
N.E. E.
S.W.
S.W.S.W.
S.W.S.W. S.
E.
S.W.S.W.
S.W. w.
S.W.
N.W. N.
N.E. S.E.

ShowersShowers
Rain . . .
Cloudy .

Cloudy, thunder
Flying clouds . .

Cloudy

Flying clouds
Cloudy 
Clouded ....
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Thunder

Flying clouds
Cloudy 

Flying clouds, thunder
Rain 
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Cloudy 

75
55
5°
586765
61
64
6964
6979
5560 72
79
7979
81 76
738081838482587' 7i
75

[244]

Appendix, N° 5

JUNE, 1762.

as

K

H

fc

I

£

71

S.W.

67

N.W.

57

N.W.

60

N.W.

75

S.W.

75

S.W.

77

S.E.

72

S.W.

78

S.W.

70

N.

79

S.E.

70

S.

81

s.

78

N.W.

83

N.

73

N.E.

74

N.W.

68

N.E.

70

W.

82

W.

87

W.

83

N.W.

73

E.

79

S.E.

82

S.E.

84

S.

75

N.E.

82

S.E.

70

N.

Weather.

ffi ri

I
2 34 56 789
10 11 1213 14 '516 '7 1819
2021 2223 242526 2728 2930

Clouded ....
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds

Cloudy, thunder

Flying clouds 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds, thunder
Cloudy 
Cloudy, thunder 
Cloudy, thunder 
Rain 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 

 a shower
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds ....

Flying clouds, thunder
Clouded 

74786066 737882828284 75798585828880 8370758090 7975827585 8387 79

[245]

Travels Through North America

JULY, 1762.

00
sua

a
H

z

Weather.

I
2
34567 8
9
10
1112 13
14 15
16171819
20212223242526 27
28293° 3i

7364
6684848884847673
79
7580807575
8382 838381 76 85858080 7981
81 8464

E.
N.E. W.
S.W. S.W.
S.W. W.
S.W. N.E. N.E. S.E.
S.W.S.W. S.E.
N.W.
N.E. S.E.
S.W. S.W.S.W.S.W.N.E. S.E.
S.W. N.
N.E. E.
S.E. S.
E.
N.E.

Rain 
Rain 
Hazy 
Hazy, thunder 
Hazy, thunder 
Cloudy, thunder 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Clouded, a shower . . .
Clouded 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds, thunder
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Cloudy, thunder 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Cloudy 
Rain 

[246]

Appendix, N° 5

AUGUST, 1762.

1
2 34 5678 9
10 1112 1314151617 1819
202122 23242526272829 3°
3i

a E
°.2
ffi!2

59 7°67676667 747472697i 79
73 7978
787779 8077
6778 7878
697374
767677
73

z

N.E.
N.W. N.E.N.E. N.
W .
S.W.S.W. S.W.
N.W. S.W. N.
N.E.S.W. s.
S.W.
S.W. S.W.
S.W.S.W.
N.W. S.W.S.W.S.W.
N.W. N.E.S.W.S.W.S.W.S.W.
N.W.

Weather.

Rain 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds 
Clouded, thunder
Flying clouds, shower
Cloudy, thunder 
Cloudy, thunder 
Cloudy, thunder 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds, thunder
Cloudy, thunder 
Cloudy, thunder 
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 

62 7670
69 74747979; 2
75808479848482848383848181838375
8082 83838281

[247]

Travels Through North America

SEPTEMBER, 1762.

<
fi

o o
MS

X
H

z

Weather.

I
23
4 5
6 78
9
10
1112!3H
15161718
19
2021
22 23
2425262728
29
3°

7i 77
6465637i
61626464 72
656772
6967
596064697070
555i5i55
5664
63
56

N.N.
N.E.N.E. S.
S.W.
N.E.
N.W.N.E. S.W.
N.E.
N.W. N.E. S.W. N.
N.W. N.E. E. S.
N.E. W.
S.W.
N.W.N.W. N.
N.E. E. S.S.
N.W.

Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Rain 
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
 thunder
Flying clouds ....
Flying clouds
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Cloudy, thunder . .
Small rain 
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Cloudy 
Rain 
Flying clouds ....

[248]

Appendix, N° j"

OCTOBER, 1762.

Weather.

tt £
g^
ffi e.

I
23 4 567 89
10 1112 13141516 1718'9
20212223242526272829303i

605°5665 6053
58 6159
63 59
4749 5i6052525i4552434039
49 44
443633 32
4446

N.
N.E.S.W. S.W. w.
N.W. S.E. S.
N.E. S.W.
N.E. S.W. N.
N.E. S.W.
N.W. S.W.
N.W.N.W. W.
N.W. W.
w.
S.W. w. s.
N.W.N.W.
N.W. S.W.N.E.

Cloudy 
Rain 
Flying clouds 
Flying clouds 
Clouded 
Rain 
Clouded 
Cloudy 
Flying clouds 
Rain 
Rain 
Clouded 
Cloudy, thunder and hail
Cloudy 
Clouded 
Rain, thunder 
Cloudy 
. . . .thunder 
Rain 
Flying clouds 
Little rain 
Clouded 
Little snow 
Cloudy 

655967 74
65 61 6375617i64
5559 585857655860565i5i546064 52
464545 53

[ 249

Travels Through North America

NOVEMBER, 1762.

5
o

o o
ffiS

z

Weather.

I
2
3
4 56
789
1011
12 13
H 15
16171819
202122232425262728
29
30

44 5°
53
425i
363432
40353839363i3i4134
3i424i
42 35
454644
48 38
404i43

S.E. S.
N.W.N.W. S.E.
N.E.
N.E.
N.W. W.
N.E.
N.W. W.
N.W.N.W.N.W. S.W.
N.W.N.W.N.W. N.E.N.E.N.E.
N.E. S.E. N. E.
N.E. E.
W.

Cloudy 
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Rain 
Rain 
Clouded Cloudy 
Cloudy 
CloudedCloudy 
Clouded ....
Cloudy 
Flying clouds
Foggy 
Foggy 
Foggy 
Foggy 
Foggy 
Clouded ....
Rain 
Misting rain
Flying clouds

58
6661
6543
34 4i
4644
47 48
4542
484842

474558 6052
5249 46464748

[250]

Appendix, N° 5

DECEMBER, 1762.

I
234 56 78 9
10 1112 13H •51617 1819
20 2122 23 242526 2728 293° 3i

° J2

31 33
43 4443 363733 32 3435 52
44403° 24
3° 51424040 5°
41 4041 3i26 283°
4444

£

N.W. N.
S.W.S.W.S.W.
N.W. S.W.
N.W.N.W. w.
S.W. s.
S.W.
N.W.N.W.N.W. N.W. S.W.
N.E. N.
W.
S.W.
N.E. N.E.N.E.
N.W.N.W. N.W. N.E.N.E. S.W.

Weather.

a 2
ffi ri

CloudedHazy 
Hazy 
CloudedSmall rain . .
Clouded Cloudy 
Clouded Flying clouds
CloudedCloudedCloudy 
CloudedRain 
Misting rain
Clouded Cloudy 
Rain 
Rain 
Rain 
Foggy ......
Misting rain
Foggy 

44 4546 5645444242 4752 56625541364149 4443 4247 5941 4143 35 3441 46 5°48

[251]

EDITORIAL NOTES.
Note I.
The present-day visitor to Williamsburg finds it one
of the most charmingly antique towns in America. Duke
of Gloucester, the main street of the village, broadens at
its centre into an open square called Court House Green,
where stands an ancient temple of justice, surrounded
by fine colonial residences. Farther up Duke of Gloucester
Street is another square, Palace Green, faced by other
historic mansions, including the old palace of the royal
governors. Thence a short walk takes one to the ancient
church of Bruton parish, the oldest Protestant house of
worship still in use in America; and at the end of the
street stands the restored William and Mary College.
The site of the old hall of the House of Burgesses is at
the other end of Duke of Gloucester Street, but nothing
remains of this famous structure save the foundation, and
masses of broken plaster from its walls.
Note II.
The region beyond the Ohio, now the States of Ohio,
Indiana and Illinois, was a part of the province of Virginia
under her charter, but in 1781 was ceded to the Federal
[253]

Notes
Government. See Hinsdale's "The Old Northwest, with
a View of the Thirteen Colonies as Constituted by the
Royal Charters," New York, 1899.
Note III.
Colonel William Byrd, of Westover, founder of the
towns of Richmond and Petersburg, was one of the most
brilliant figures in the history of the later colonial period.
Born to an ample fortune, the epitaph above his grave
at Westover records that he "was sent early to England,
where he made a happy proficiency in polite and various
learning; contracted a most intimate and bosom friend
ship with the learned and illustrious Charles Boyle, Earl
of Orrery; was called to the bar of the Middle Temple;
was chosen Fellow of the Royal Society; and being thirty-
seven years a member, at last became president of the
council of this colony." His epitaph also tells the way
farer that he was "the well-bred gentleman and polite
companion, the constant enemy of all exorbitant power,
and hearty friend of the liberties of his country." The
famous "Westover Manuscripts," written by Byrd for
his own amusement and first published in 1841, is one of
the most delightful books that has come down to us from
the colonial period. Note IV.
Henry Bouquet, born in Rolle, Switzerland, in 1719,
served in the armies of Holland and Sardinia, and in 1756
entered the British service with the rank of lieutenant-
colonel. He took part in the expedition against Fort
Duquesne in 1758 and was present at its capture. Five
years later he successfully led an expedition to the relief
[254]

Notes
of the same fort, then called Fort Pitt. In October, 1764,
he marched against the Ohio Indians, who were harrying
the border, and compelled the Shawnees, Delawares and
other tribes to make peace at Tuscarawas. He was made
colonel in 1762, and at the time of his death, which occurred
at Pensacola in 1766, held the rank of brigadier-general.
An account of Bouquet's expedition against the Ohio
Indians, written by Dr. William Smith, then provost of
the College of Philadelphia, and published in 1766, was
reprinted at Cincinnati in 1868 with preface by Francis
Parkman.
Note V.
Spotswood's iron works were located near the present
Germanna Ford on the Rapidan. There is an engaging
account of a visit to them in the "Westover Manuscripts."
Note VI.
The parsons were right both in law and in equity, but
popular greed and prejudice were against them. It was
as counsel for the defence in one of the suits growing out
of this affair that, in 1763, Patrick Henry, then a young
lawyer of twenty-seven, first proved his supreme powers
as an orator, and at the same time startled his auditors
with the bold declaration " that a king, by disallowing acts
of a salutary nature, from being the father of his people,
degenerated into a tyrant, and forfeited all right to his
subjects' obedience." A full and satisfying account of
the Parsons' Cause will be found in the first volume of
William Wirt Henry's "Patrick Henry: Life, Correspond
ence and Speeches," New York, 1891.
[255]

Notes
Note VII.
George Wythe, described by Thomas Jefferson as "the
Cato of his country without the avarice of the Roman,"
was born in 1726, and was early chosen a member of the
House of Burgesses where he served until the opening of
the Revolution. A leader from the first in the Patriot
cause, he was, in August, 1775, appointed a delegate to
the Continental Congress from Virginia, and as such
signed the Declaration of Independence. He became
speaker of the Virginia House of Delegates in 1777, and a
little later was made chancellor of the State, which post
he held for more than twenty years. For ten years follow
ing 1779 he was also professor of law in William and
Mary College, and in 1787 served as a member of the con
vention that framed the Federal Constitution. His death
in his eighty-first year was due to poison, administered,
it was believed, by his nephew, who was tried for the crime
but acquitted. Note VIII.
David Douglas was from 1758 to 1774 manager of the
American Company, the most important organization of
players in the colonies. He also built the first permanent
theatres in New York, Philadelphia and Charleston. At
the opening of the Revolution he withdrew to Jamaica,
where, following his retirement, he held the posts of master
in chancery and magistrate. He died in 1786.
Note IX.
James Logan, born in Ireland in 1674, was from 1699
until his death in 1751 the business agent in Pennsylvania
of William Penn and his heirs, and, Benjamin Franklin
[256]

Notes
excepted, the ablest and most influential citizen of that
province, serving at different times as member and presi
dent of the provincial council, justice of the court of com
mon pleas, mayor of Philadelphia, chief justice and gov
ernor. His library of 2,000 volumes which he bequeathed
to the city of Philadelphia was in 1792 annexed to the
Philadelphia Library, established in 1731 by Franklin
and now housed at the corner of Locust and Juniper streets
in that city, but has been kept separate under the name
of the Loganian Library.
Note X.
St. George's Chapel stood at the corner of the present
Beekman and Cliff Streets, New York. Built and opened
in 1752, it was rebuilt after its destruction by fire in 1814,
and was occupied until 1841, when it was demolished and
its congregation removed to the present church in Ruther
ford Place. Warehouses now cover its site and the burial
ground which aforetime surrounded it.
Note XI.
The prison referred to by Burnaby stood in City Hall
Park, New York, on the line of the present Park Row.
Built in 1756, it was originally a graystone structure sur
mounted by a tower which was long a famous outlook for
fires. During the Revolution and the British occupation
of New York it was used as a Patriot prison. Then it
became a place of detention for delinquent debtors, and
served that purpose until 1829, when the common council
decided to reconstruct it and devote it to the housing of
the city records. It was accordingly cut down a story
[257]

Notes
and encased in new outer walls, and as the Hall of Records
remained one of the historic landmarks of the city until
1903, when it was torn down because it obstructed the
route of the underground railway.
Note XII.
The fort of Burnaby's time was the successor of the one
built by the Dutch founders of New York. It stood just
south of Bowling Green, but was demolished in 1790 to
furnish a site, first for an official residence for the governors
of the State, then for a row of dwellings, and finally for a
custom-house. Note XIII.
The history of New York's first public library is an in
teresting one. In 1729 a collection of books bequeathed
by John Millington, rector of Newington, England, to
the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign
Parts, was by that organization presented to the city for a
public library. At the same time like disposition was
made of a collection presented to the society in 1700 by
the Reverend John Sharp, chaplain of Lord Bellomont,
then royal governor of New York. A quarter of a century
later a number of citizens organized themselves into a
body, which in due time received a royal charter under
the name of the New York Society Library. Its collec
tion of books housed in the old city hall in Wall Street
grew steadily until the Revolution, during which it was
scattered and almost totally destroyed by the British
soldiery. The society reorganized, however, in 1783, and
reviving its charter again began the collection of books.
A building was erected in Nassau Street in 1793, but the
[258]

Notes
collection soon outgrew its quarters, and removing to
Chambers Street the society continued there until 1840
when it occupied a building of its own at the corner of
Broadway and Leonard Street. Hardly was it settled
here when the growth of the business section of the city
forced it to seek new quarters. It established itself for
a time in Astor Place, and then in 1857 removed to its
present home in University Place.
Note XIV.
Money for the founding of what in Burnaby's time was
King's College and is now Columbia University was raised
by a public lottery set afoot by the provincial assembly of
New York. Trinity Church gave it for a site the plot of
ground now bounded by College Place, and by Church,
Murray and Barclay Streets; and the three-story building
of stone erected thereon was first occupied in 1760, six
years after the college received its charter. Samuel John
son, who forty years before had helped in the founding of
Yale College, was its first president, and had at the outset
but a single assistant. The first graduating class, that of
1758, numbered only eight; but the college grew from
year to year in numbers and efficiency, and when Dr.
Johnson resigned the presidency, in 1763, he had laid a
sure foundation for his successors.
Note XV.
Two Kissing Bridges have a place in the early history
of New York. In the opening years of the last century, a
small stream called the Saw-kill was spanned at the present
intersection of Third Avenue and Seventy-seventh Street
[259]

Notes
by a bridge which John Randel, Jr., declares was known
to all the young men and women of his day as the Kissing
Bridge. The Kissing Bridge of Burnaby's time, however,
spanned a creek in what is now the Bowery, a little to the
south of the present Chatham Square.
Note XVI.
The Redwood Library, chartered in 1747, takes its
name from Abraham Redwood (1 709-1 788), a benevolent
Quaker merchant of Newport, who was one of its founders.
The building in which it is housed, a handsome Doric
structure completed in 1750, was designed by Peter Harri
son, the architect of Blenheim Castle.
Note XVII.
In 1725, the famous George Berkeley, then dean of
Derry, conceived the idea of converting the American
Indians to Christianity by means of a .college to be estab
lished in the Bermuda Islands. Sir Robert Walpole, at
that time chief minister, opposed the enterprise, but
Berkeley persuaded the British government to promise a
grant of £20,000 in support of his plans, and in September,
1728, he sailed for America, expecting to found the college
and assume its presidency. He reached Newport in
January, 1729, where he bought a farm, erected upon it
a small house, engaged in correspondence and study,
composed "The Minute Philosopher," preached occa
sionally, and waited in vain for the expected endowment.
Finally, wearied by long delays and reluctantly convinced
that Walpole had no intention of giving him the promised
support, Berkeley gave up his residence at Newport, and,
[260]

Notes
after a short stay in Boston, in September, 1731, set sail
for home. Three years after his return to England he
became bishop of Cloyne. He died in 1753 at the age
of sixty-nine. Note XVIII.
John Smibert, who was to have been professor of fine
arts in Berkeley's projected college, was born in Edin
burgh in 1684, studied painting in London, and then passed
some years in Italy. Returning to England he became a
portrait painter in London, and, in 1729, came to America
with Berkeley. He painted for some months in Newport,
and when the Bermuda enterprise was abandoned settled
in Boston. When Berkeley became bishop of Cloyne, he
asked Smibert to join him in Ireland, but the painter, who
in the meantime had married a wealthy widow, declined
his patron's invitation, and dwelt in Boston, prosperous
and contented until his death in 1751. Smibert's most
important American work is the painting of Berkeley and
his family, executed in Boston in the summer of 1731, and
presented to Yale College in 1808.
Note XIX.
A native of Sussex, England, and born in 1693, William
Shirley at the age of forty-one settled in Boston in the
practice of his profession — the law. He served as gov
ernor of Massachusetts from 1741 to 1745, and in the
latter year planned the successful expedition against Cape
Jireton. He was in England from 1745 to 1753, but then
returned to Massachusetts as governor, and at the opening
of the French war in 1755 was commander-in-chief of the
British, forces in North America. He was made lieutenant-
[261] •

Notes
general in 1759, and later served as governor of the Bahama
Islands. He returned to Massachusetts in 1770, and died
in the following year at Roxbury.
Note XX.
Under the name of " bundling " the custom described
by Burnaby prevailed until a recent period in the sections
of Pennsylvania originally settled by Germans. The
curious will find the subject exhaustively treated in Henry
Reed Stiles* "Bundling: its origin, progress and decline
in America," Albany, 1871.

[262]

INDEX

Albany, 114
Alexandria, 69
Anabaptists, 90, 113, 121
Annapolis, 80
Apthorpe, Rev., 139
B
Bahama river, 86
Bailor, Colonel, 63
Bassett, Colonel, 70
Belvedere, 39
Berkeley, Dean, 121, 260
Blair, John, 37
Blue Ridge Mountains, 71,
Boston, 132-134
Bouquet, Colonel Henry,
254
Boyle, Mr., 53
Bristol, 103
Broadway, New York, 112
Brunswick, 104
Bundling, See Tarrying
Burlington, 104
Byrd, Colonel William, 39,
254 c
Carlisle, 92
Chesapeake Bay, 41
Chester, 88

Chester River, 86
Chew, Captain, 30
Chiswell, Colonel, 42
Church of England, 48, 84, 90,
95,103,104,116,121,139
Churchill, Colonel, 78
Colchester, 66
Congregationalists, 138
D
Delaware, 87, 88
Delaware, Falls of, 103
Delaware river, 91
Derby, 88
72 Diggs, Colonel Edward, 32
Douglas, David, 80, 256
40, Dumfries, 65
Dutch Calvinists, 90, 113

Elizabethtown, 105
Elk river, 86 F
78, Fairfax, Brian, Lord, 206, 212
Fairfax, George William, 209
Fairfax, Thomas, 210
Fairfax, Thomas, Lord, 71, 197-
206
Fairfax, William, 200, 207

[263]

Index

Faneuil Hall, 133
Fauquier, Francis, 129
Franklin, Benjamin, 140
Fredericksburg, 63
Fredericktown, 87

Gaines, Major Henry, 63
Germantown, 92
Great Choptank river, 86
Greenway Court, 71
H
Harvard College, 139
Hell Gate, 119
Henry, Patrick, 255
I
Indians, Cherokee, 56
Indians, Pamunky, 62
J
James river, 39
Jefferson, Thomas, 40
Jews, 113, 121
Johnson, Samuel, 117

King's Chapel, Boston, 133
King's College, 112, 117, 259
Kissing Bridge, 118, 259

M
Magotty river, 86
Maine, 134
Manokin river, 87
Marlborough, 80
Martin, Thomas, 202, 206
Maryland, 80-87
Massachusetts Bay, 132-145
Mattapony river, 40
Miles river, 86
Moore, Colonel Bernard, 61
Moravians, 113, 121
Mount Vernon, 67
N
Nanticote river, 87
Nassau Hall, 103
Natural Bridge, 77
Necks, Captain, 30
Newark, 105
Newcastle, 87
New Hampshire, 146-149
New Jersey, 103-110
Newport, 120
New York, City of, ill— 113
New York, Province of, 1 lo
ng
Northern Neck, 66
North river, 86 O
Occoquan river, 66

Lancaster, 92
Little Choptank river, 86
Logan, James, 90, 256
Long Island, 119
Loudon, Fort, 56
Lutherans, 90, 113

Pamunky river, 40
Parsons' cause, 49-52, 255
Passaic Falls, 105
Patuxent river, 86
Pawtucket river, 131
[264]

Index

Pennsylvania, 88-103
Pennsylvania College (now uni
versity), 96
Perth Amboy, 104
Philadelphia, 88-91
Pocomoke river, 87
Portsmouth, 146
Potomac, Falls of, 68
Potomac river, 40
Presbyterians, 90, 103, 104, 121
Princeton, 103
Providence, 131 Q.
Quakers, 90, 96, 99, 103, 113,
121
Quantico river, 66
R
Randolph, Peyton, 203
Rappahannock, Falls of, 64
Rappahannock river, 40
Redwood Library, 260
Rhode Island, 1 20-1 31
Richmond, 35
Roman Catholics, 84, 90, 116

Sagadahoc, 134
St. George's Chapel, New York,
112, 257
Sassafras river, 86
Schenectady, 114
Schuyler, Colonel John, 106
Schuyler, Colonel Peter, 107
Severn river, 80, 86
Shenandoah river, 73
Shirley, William, 133, 261
Sinclair, Sir John, 103
Slavery, Negro, 47, 54, 66*, 1 14,
124

Smibert, John, 122, 261
Smith, William, 96
Society Library, 116, 258
South river, 86
Spotswood, Alexander, 41, 255
Staten Island, no
Sterling, Captain, 29
Symes, Colonel, 61
Susquehanna river, 86

Tarrying, 141, 262
Tasco, Colonel, 85
Trenton, 103
Trinity Church, New York, 112

Virginia, 32-80, 253
W
Wampum, no
Washington, George, 36, 67, 74,
76
Washington, Lawrence, 211
West, Benjamin, 96
West Point, 39
Whitefield, George, 90
William and Mary College, 52
Williamsburg, 33, 253
Wilmington, 88
Winchester, 74
Woodbridge, 105
Wye river, 86
Wythe, George, 53, 256

Yale College, 122
York, 32
York river, 39
[265]

YALE UNIVERSITY

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