A Descriptive Narrative.

History and Travels

-OF A-

Wanderer in Many States and Places of
Interest in this Fair Land
of Ours

-BY-

Amanda E. Miller Bates
Normal, Illinois.

Bloohihstom, Il^itoii:
Puntagraph Printing and StaiionBry Co.,
Printers and Binderi.

'Copyright, 1900.
Amanda E. Millek Bates.

3ii

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Dedication  5
Preface  6
California  7
Chinaman's Ranch  15
Los Angeles  17
Homeward Bound  25
Visit to Salt Lake  27
Great Salt Lake City  31
Lecture on Mormons  37
Trip to Arizona  41
The Mountain Hunter  76
Letter from S. C. Miller, Arizona Pioneer  78
How I Escaped Apaches  85
New Mexico  88
World's Fair  95
Poem: 'Jlnsulator Shoe"  100
Niagara  102
Biltmore  104
Washington, District of Columbia   105
Mt. Vernon  116
Poem: "George Washington"  118
Indians at Paris Exposition  120
Poem "Zacheus."  126
Attica, Indiana, LitMa Springs Hotel  127
Poem, "Man of Attica"  131
Indiana Mineral Springs.  133
Success  135
Poem: "When the Sun GoesDown"  139

DEDICATION.

To my beloved pupils, and teachers, to whom I have ever
been much attached,
To those who have listened attentively and patiently to
my imperfect instruction, and faithfully performed the duties
assigned them, and to those who have urged a publication
from me some years ago. I affectionately dedicate the wan
derings of myself and remember them all with a loving heart.
Amanda E. Miller Bates.

PREFACE.

Why must another book meet you in open field, among
thousands of others, and which like others must stand on its
own merit as the author believes that every man in this world
has his own special calling, duty or mission to fulfill, so have
also all the good books that have been handed down to us;
and by God's grace accompanying them, they have been the
means of instructing and enlightening the human race.
I love good books and good books are all the kind we
should dare to read. Some of the sample books and papers
left at our doors should be consumed in our grates, not fit
to come into contact with the noble mind and soul which
God has given us. We need pure literature, we need pure
teaching, we need pure character if we desire pure lives, and
if our lives are not pure in his sight the gates of the City will
be closed against us.
The object of this work is to give a little History and
Travel for the perusal of its readers, that will prove both
instructive and interesting and provide a fund for the benefit
of the poor, which the Church nor Ladies' Aid cannot provide
for. I ascribe myself.
Amanda E. Miller Bates.

CALIFORNIA.

In the spring of 1876 when every one seemed to turn
thought to the Centennial Celebration at Philadelphia, I de
cided to take a trip that I had long contemplated to California.
I had begun a Spring Term of school but not satisfied to give
up my trip to the great West, I resigned after teaching one
week, came home on Friday night packed my trunk on Mon
day and started on Tuesday evening for Galesburg, Illinois,
where I bought my ticket for San Francisco, California. I
went by the Burlington Route to Council Bluffs, crossing the
Mississippi river at Burlington and the Missouri at Council
Bluffs, into Omaha. I had to change cars at Omaha and
recheck my trunk, which cost me near four dollars, as I was
allowed only one hundred pounds baggage over the Union
Pacific. I had crossed the Mississippi at Rock Island some
five years before. Omaha City was the home of the Omaha
Indians, a once famous tribe, afterward an Indian graveyard.
Here I saw few Indians, the great state of Nebraska spread
ing out like a map before me. After I left Omaha no trees
were to be seen, except a few yard trees set out by the hand
of art to beautify the surroundings. By my guide book I
watched for places of interest, everything has a history, yes
even a copper cent.
One place which attracted my attention was Grand Is
land, Nebraska. It is a beautiful place. It was a long way
to the old landmark, the One Thousand mile tree. It was
a single sturdy oak with a signboard attached. Upon the
signboard is printed "One Thousand Miles from Omaha."
The iron horse was carrying me fast from friends and home,
to my mother's sisters, one who had seen me when a babe.

.8
She had sailed on a steamer from New York harbor by way
of Cape Horn. My other aunt went to California in 1849,
over the plains in wagon. I was soon in the Hutnbolt region.
I saw where the river rose from springs, rode by the river for
miles, then saw where it sinks into the earth. This place is
called the "Sink of the Humbolt." Near it are the Humbolt
Mountains. At this sink many weary emigrants have labored
hard and long to get through. It is a mire. I wondered
how my aunt Nancy Jackson had traversed the plain with two
small children, to her home in the far West. She made this
journey before my birth. She reached California in Novem
ber, 1849. My uncle Ben Jackson, a cousin of Stonewall
is captain of the California Pioneers or 49ers as they are called.
They lived in Peoria county, Illinois.
I saw the "Maiden's Grave," high on the mountain top,
it seemed inaccessible to man or beast. The grave is marked
with a wooden cross and is a landmark. The old emigrant
road is in sight of the railroad for many miles. There are
many things to interest the traveler enroute to California. I
passed Julesburg, where so many emigrants had been mur
dered by Indians, I mailed my second postal card to my
mother at this place. One. town I passed was a Prairie dog
town. I saw hundreds of their dwellings. Their compan
ions were owls and rattlesnakes. At the least noise these little
dogs scamper about and run into their holes, head first while
their tails stick out in open air. When one shoots at them,
it is very hard to hit them, they are so quick. Next I saw
many Mormon settlements. I decided, to visit the great city
of "Salt Lake" on my way home. I saw where the "Moun
tain Meadow Massacre" occurred, Indians were led on to do
the bloody work by designing white men. Mormons by their
religious creed. I was now in Utah, and was riding beside

the great lake. It is beautiful in appearance. I gazed long
at the Pyramid lake, which has a number of huge rocks like
Pyramids jutting above the surface.
I had passed the mountain of the Holy Cross. I had
seen Pikes Peak in the distance. I was now leaving the
snow covered mountains, for valleys where the trees were
putting forth green leaves, where the grass was green and
tender, with here and there a yellow buttercup. The cattle
were feeding on the hillside. The vegetation had changed
from the hickory, elm, oak and maple. Here was walnut,
magnolia, pepper, mansanita and the variety of redwoods.
The fruit trees were white with bloqm. The sudden change
from winter to spring was grand and fascinating. Next was
a large field of barley where men were harvesting.
My fondest hope was realized. I had reached California.
At Truckee I beheld a sluice box for washing gold. I saw
the machinery for hydraulic mining. It was from Truckee
where Senator's Fair Flood and Field took their famous boat-
ride down a Nevada water flume. They soon decided they
would never again make themselves equal to pine slabs, and
thus float off. I had reached the capital, Sacramento, but had
to wait until 2 p. m., in order to reach Napa city. I took a
cab to a hotel, took my trunk, got dinner, took a bath, changed
my traveling apparel, paid the sum of twenty-five cents for
all the accommodation.
The tickets cost the same to Sacramento as to San Fran
cisco. I decided to get all I could for the money. I bought
a ticket for San Francisco, so now I sold my remaining ticket
for $4.60, and bought a ticket to Napa for $1.50. I sent a
telegram to my cousin, I. E. Howell, that I would arrive at
Napa at 6 p. m. I enjoyed my dinner of fresh vegetables,
cherry pie, fresh peaches. I next wrote a letter to my mother

10
in Illinois, that I had arrived safely at Saqramento and that I
would reach Napa city, and her sister at 6 p. m. I had been
on the road five days and nights from Galesburg. I had to
change cars at Napa junction.
When I alighted from the train I was so delighted with
the sunshine that I stood on the platform like every one else
did, examining the baggage that was piled off. There were
only a few trunks and few passengers that got off at this
crossing. I was looking at mv trunk, when a tall, handsome,
young man stepped up to the trunk, read the name on the
card on the top, then said to several ladies of us, "who claims
this trunk?" I then stepped to the trunk, when he inquired,
"Are you Miss Miller?" "I answer to that name." He
then said that he was my cousin, I. E. Howell, who had come
to meet me.
He then infonned me that he was a pallbearer at a fu
neral, when the telegram reached him. This cousin vyho met
me came to California, when near a year old, accompanied by
his parents, who sailed from New York, in 1851, around
Cape Horn.
After a few days I became rested and I was feeling
better than I had for some time. I had been troubled with
a cough, all the winter and spring. I met many people who
were interested in me. Some knew and liked my aunt and
uncle so well, that they gave me a warm welcome. I was a
Methodist too, and the church at Napa was very large, then
the college was ,of that denomination. Being a teacher, I
became acquainted with teachers, and students of the college.
There was one a Professor Buck that all the girls gazed fondly
on. He was smart, good looking and rich and as a teacher
on mathematics he had few equals. The girls were not
timid in telling me about the charms of this Professor. I was

11
not aware that I had made an impress, until I had gone
with Aunt Jackson to spend a few weeks, at Atlas Peak, a
mountain resort, about fifteen miles distant. The home was
kept by a widower named Evans.
I had enjoyed the roses and geraniums at Napa to, my
heart's content. I had met cousin Mary Pierson and Carrie
Jackson, then in her teens.
My cousin, Mary Pierson's husband was a glovemaker
by trade. He made beautiful gloves for both ladies and gen
tlemen. Dressed the buckskin from the rough for his work.
He was a money maker, his wife went with us to spend a few
w«eks at the peak.
The road was mountainous, but the scenery delightful.
The climate considerable cooler than at Napa. I was past
twenty years old, just old enough for fun. Of all the nice
berries, fruit, flowers, quail, I got my share. We furnished
our own rooms but took meals with Mr. Evans.
The daily stage from Napa brought the mail. Much to
my surprise on Tuesday, of the second week here, the Pro
fessor, to spend a part of his vacation. My fun all spoilt.
But I was still invited to help cut the roses each day, when to
my chagrin I was asked how I would like to live at the peak
for good. I could not think of such a thing, my home was
in Illinois. I told him I was a heartless creature, but that
my heart was walking the streets of Philadelphia, sad and
forlorn, while I was at Atlas Peak with him and the Pro
fessor. Now aunt was real glad the Professor had come out, but
in one week more aunt, cousins. Professor and I came to Napa
on the stage. Two years afterward the Professor married
my friend, Mattie Amos.
The old man at the peak is dead long since. My aunt
and cousin, M^s. Pierson, are gone from earth, cousin Carrie

12
Jackson is now married to Captain Redman of United States
Navy, situated at Mare Island Navy Yard. But should I
visit California again, I should want to take a ride to Atlas
Mountain, and see the sun rise on the mountain once again.
I visited Gesford's peach orchard, ten acres in peaches, all
sizes, then there were the apricots, nectarines, figs, plums of
all varieties and grapes. There were the Black Prince, the
Flaming Tokay, White Muscatel, from which nearly all the
good raisins are made. Then the almonds. I was delighted
with the fruit, of pears and quinces there seemed no end. I
was interested in their Chinese cook. They learn cooking
easily, when once told or shown how to do a thing they never
forget it. This cook was being taught how to make cake,
the lady broke an egg into a dish, the next one happening to
be a bad one she threw it into the slop-pail ; the next was bad,
she put it into the slop-pail also. The next was saved. The
Chinee caught the idea. When he made cake, one egg went
into a dish two into the slop-pail each time.
I was visiting at the Amesbury place, one of the most
elegant country homes in Napa county. It is in a beautiful
valley called Brown's Valley. The Amesbury's had crossed
the Isthmus of Panama on mule, back in 1849, then took ship
to San Francisco. They had no children of their own; but
had an adopted daughter, who was just sixteen years old, and
desired my company very much. I had been teaching the
Brown's Valley school and she was my oldest pupil. Then
when vacation came I was invited to her home, for a few
weeks. I was delighted with the fruit and flowers of that
home. They had a Chinese cook. They are like the Ameri
cans in one way. Some are very particular about their food,
while others prefer a dish of rice and rats to anything else.
Some eat with knife and fork, while those who prefer a rice diet

13
eat entirely with the chopstick. I have no great love for the
Chinee, except to give him the light of God. I have a relic
from China, which I prize. It is a back-scratcher, an iviory
hand with fingers, fastened to a long handle, of redwood, quite
-a useful article. I also have learned to make a Chinese em
broidery on silk, and with silk, which is very beautiful.
While at Uncle Howell's in Napa, a Chinaman brought me
some Chinese candy. It was green olives dried in salt. They
were horrid, I burned them.
The beautiful magnolia tree with its highly perfumed
flower, such a beautiful snowy white, delighted me and the
roses, there was no end to them. I had never seen any Cali
fornia cherries. M'y cousin sent a gallon of very fine ones,
over to the house, with the word that they were for me to eat
what I wanted. I did not know how many there were of
them, until I had eaten the last cherry, my cousin said at din
ner, "where are your cherries?" I said,, "I have eaten them
all up." He laughed heartily. I really did eat every one of
a gallon of cherries. They were delicious. 1 thought I had
better call a physician, but aunt calmed my fears by saying
they would never hurt me. She said, that she enjoyed seeing
me eat those cherries. They were as large as small plums and
dead ripe.
The wild ivy vines crept over many an old tree and many
of the beautiful yards were fenced with rose trees of white,
yellow, and red. I delighted to throw a club into an almond
tree and hear the nuts fall thick and fast, then gather them
in my apron, and eat as long as I could. When I left Illinois,
I weighed one hundred and fifteen pounds. May 14, 1876, on
September 14, I weighed one hundred and sixty pounds. The
change was such a good one, I enjoyed it so thoroughly. No
snow at Napa. No thunder or lightning, but an earthriuake
sometimes.

14
Such vegetables, I saw a beet that weighed eighty
pounds ; such melons, pumpkins, pears as large as a common
sugar bowl, such grapes. My cousin had sent me some
grapes by express to Duncan, Stark county, Illinois, the larg
est bunch sent weighed eleven pounds. The fruit there never
seems to hurt one, no difference how much you eat. While
teaching school at Brown's Valley I feasted. The little girls
brought baskets of fruit each day for the teacher. I had not
thought to teach while there, but a teacher whom the County
Superintendent had allowed to begin a school, failed in the
examination for certificate. I attended the examination out
of curiosity and to my surprise got a certificate. The County
Superintendent was an old friend to uncle and was a young
man whom I had made the acquaintance of, Mr. Fellows by
name, who asked me to take the vacated place. I had no
serious objection to $95 per month payable in gold, when
money was worth $1.13 for every gold dollar. This was big
pay for me, who had taught the year before for $45 ; so I took
the place and had I remained there, I might have been rich,
for I was very successful. The school was one mile from the
city. Uncle had a Mustang pony, I bought a new saddle and
went on pony back, to and from the school. This teaching
at Brown's Valley,, California is of the delightful memories
of my life.
I only taught twenty days for a month and on Friday
I dismissed for the day at 2 p. m. I had thirty pupils. One
little Indian boy, who rode six miles on a horse without a
bridle, and a negro boy who would steal all the pencils and
pens in the schooolroom, if you were not careful. The school-
house was a neat white frame, surrounded by oak and red
wood trees. A few yards off ran a beautiful creek, where
we could pick up plenty, of Indian arrow heads, beads, etc..

15
under the limbs of the older trees, hung the most beautiful
moss and bunches of mistletoe. To the south of the school-
house was a three-hundred acre wheat field. The wheat was
cut by a header, threshed out and put in bags, and there were
many piles of these wheat bags, as high as a man, which lay on
the ground for weeks, no rain or dew to dampen them. There
was great demand for white men for the wheat fields, as a
Chinaman is no good there. He can washee, he can cookee,
he can gardenee, but has no more idea about using a horse
to labor or drive than we would have of an elephant. He
thinks the faster he drives and the harder he whips the better
driver he is. He never stops for bridges, children or any
thing, when he is out for a drive. They put one in mind of a
man who has been to grog-shop.
CHINAMAN'S RANCH.
I made a trip, driving about eight miles northwest from
Pasadena, across the Arroyo Seco, over the foothills beyond
La Canada, then down a hill into a beautiful valley. I found
Ham Lou Sam, Americanized for convenience into plain Sam
at home. Sam was born in Canton, China, came to this country when
a boy sixteen years of age. Sam's ranch covers one hundred
and forty acres, all under cultivation, with a dark, rich soil.
It is bounded on the east by a small range of hills, west by
mountains with a fine view for a long distance either north or
south. It is all operated by himself. He decides what seed
to plant and what work is to be done, directs the peddling
wagons, besides driving one himself, and is his own book
keeper and cashier. The wagons leave every morning in the
year at 6 a. m., except on Sunday and the Chinese New Year.
I asked Sam what day was Sunday in China : "Have no Sun-

16
day there; but here same Sunday as in United States." His
fields are laid out like checker boards, and* are kept clean of
weeds. The crops are alternated, a lot which raised cauli
flower this year must have something entirely different next.
Everything changes every year. He says he has two hundred
forty bushels of potatoes on one acre. He has three acres
in strawberries. He has a well ninety feet deep, water is
raised by gasoline engine. He employes eighteen men, one
as cook, and one as a general superintendent. He has five
peddling wagons, with two horses each, extra horses for farm
work, an endless supply of gardening tools. He raises all
his feed for stock, a big flock of pigeons and plenty of ducks
and chickens for eggs and eating. They all rise at 5 a. m.
It was a novelty to see them eat with chopsticks. Coffee for
breakfast. I said, "Sam have all the vegetables he want for
eating?" "Chinaman don't eat much vegetable; most all meat
and rice, chicken, duck, and pigeon. Every Sunday we have
eight chickens, or each man a pigeon." "Sam how can you
cut meat with chopsticks?" "No it all cut up when it comes
on the table." "But Sam how about rats?" "You know
better than that, poor Chinaman get lots bad talk about rats ;
he eat pies and sweet things." He had plenty of dishes, pans,
pots, kettles. His place is much better kept than some Ameri
can ranches I have seen.
I can not begin to mention the beauties nor the wonders
of California, when I saw acres in calla lilies and thirteen
acresin carnations at Redondo Beach. California is simply
a flower garden. There is something in the soil, in the water
or the sun that makes such wonderful growth, everything
seems to fully develop and everything tries for the mastery.
Pasadena, February 11, 1898.
The Rev. J. H. Kelly a negro preacher, swallowed a live
mouse last night and lives to tell the story.

17
Mr. Kelly, who is i!)astor of the Friendship Baptist
Church, had been reading a newspaper and fell asleep with his
mouth wide open. As he was lying on his back, a mouse, at
tracted by loud snores, crawled into the wide open mouth
and squealing and clawing, continued down the food canal
into the stomach. The pastor, jumping to his feet and gasp
ing for breath, got on his wheel and rode to the nearest doctor.
Epicac brought the mouse up, after two hours.
The resources of southern California are great. The
only tin mine in United States worked to any extent is at
Corona, Riverside county, California. Out door life is prac
ticable at every season of the year in southern California. It
is said by the oldest inhabitants that in the old Spanish days
throat and lung trouble and rheumatism were practically un
known. The desert, with its stretches of balsamic plants, its
dry and pure air, wooes the consumptive to its arms and
promises ¦ him healing. Every mountain side has its white
tents of health seekers, or tourists.
LOS ANGELES.
To the westward of Los Angeles stretches the Chuenga
Valley, bordered on the north by the Santa Monica Moun
tains, and losing itself, thirty miles from the city of Los An
geles, on the beach of the Pacific Ocean. To the northward
opens another great valley, which, but a few miles from the
city, bends to the westward and takes the name of San Fer
nando Valley, which terminates in a pass opening into the
Simi Valley, the latter in turn broadening until it opens into
the wide plains of Ventura and Santa Barbara counties.
Eastward from the city opens the great central vallev of
southern California, crossing the San Gabriel and Santa Ana
rivers and, sixty miles away, bending to the southeast to in-

18
elude the wide reaches of the San Jacinto plains. To the
southeast from Los Angeles reaches the great coast plain
extending to the Mexican line, opening in many directions
into lesser valleys and including in its expansive territory, such
cities as Santa Ana and San Diego. Besides these valleys are
many mountain passes leading to mining districts on the des
erts and opening the way for unlimited railway lines to the
east and north. Nor has man been slow to recognize the de
sign of nature, here centered the labors of the pious mission
ary father, who sought the salvation of the primitive heathen,
who roamed over the valleys and mountains of southern Cali
fornia. At Sherman, a small but pretty little town near Los Ange
les is located the powerhouse of the Santa Monica and Los An
geles Electric railroad. South of Sherman is the Palms,
where in particular the lemon is grown. Between Sherman
and Santa Monica is the National Soldiers', Home, where two
thousand veterans of the Civil War are guests of the govern
ment; in comfortable quarters. Santa Monica is one of the
leading seaside resorts of southern California, bathing on the
fine beach is enjoyed throughout the year. Near by is the
long wharf of the Southern Pacific railroad, known as Port
Los Angeles. One scarcely passes beyond the city limits to
the northward before entering a rich fruit producing section.
Tropico, Verdugo, Glendale, and West Glendale form a clus
ter of prosperous little towns at the entrance of the San Fer
nando Valley, while a pass through the hills to the north
leads to the fruit colonies of La Canada and La Crescenta.
Thirty thousand acres in the San Fernando Valley are held
by one company as an immense grain field, while about the
rim of the valley are many small fruit ranches. At Bur-
bank is a large acreage of apricots, while at San Fernando

19
are hundreds of acres of orange orchards. About half of all
the orange orchards in the world, lie in the great central val
ley, between Los Angeles on the west and Redlands and Riv
erside on the east, a stretch of about seventy miles. Pomona,
Claremont and San Dimas, are important places; at Clare-
mont is Pomona college.
West of Claremont is Lordsburg, a dunkard settlement.
they have a fine college. Olive raising is one of the chief
industries. Alhambra is another beautiful suburb of Los
Angeles. Southeast of Los Angeles is the great walnut
growing section.
Redondo is a pleasant and well patronized seaside re
sort. Long Beach is where many religious gatherings are
held, while San Pedro is important, as' a site for a harbor to
be built by the government.
The city of San Diego lies on the beautiful bay, with a
fine harbor, from which there is about to be started a trans
pacific steamship line, to operate in connection with the Santa
Fe railroad, and make of this port a center for Asiatic, Phil
ippine and Hawaiian trade. This place also will be greatly
benefited 'by the Nicaraugua Canal. The climate of San
Diefo is not surpassed by anything in the world; the ther
mometer is nearly the same the year around, never below
forty degrees, never above eighty degrees. One of the most
magnificent seaside hotels in the world is Hotel del Coronado ;
its broad verandas are thronged with people all the year,
from all quarters of the globe. El Cajon is the great place
for raisins and took first prize for raisins at World's Fair.
One of the finest water systems of the state is at Hemet.
They have a solid dam of fine masonry with which the water
is supplied. In the extreme southwest corner of San Barnadino coun
ty is the large Chino ranch and the town of Chino, where a

20
large sugar beet factory is e^stablished. The output of this
factory for the year 1897 was 12,020 tons of sugar. I can't
tell you anything about California in this little work, but I
should like to write a history of that wonderful state. Every
thing is found there and nearly everything grows there, and
no wonder people flock there. The fields and flowers, the
woods and mines are attractive, tO; say nothing of the moun
tains, hills, and valleys, the harbors and the pebbly beach.
The trees and vegetables, fruits and flowers all grow to their
greatest perfection. Beautiful horses and cattle.
Hunting is a pastime. In some parts deer are plenti
ful, also quail and rabbits. Thousands of cattle find pasture
on the mountains. Celery is raised by the car load on the
peat lands.
The Art Loan Association at Pasadena is well worth a
visit. They have a display of mission relics, a complete col
lection of Indian curiosities. The names of donors or loan-
ers on a card attached to the article. The exhibit room is
open daily except Sunday from 9 a. m., to 5 p. m. No fee is
charged. The Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce has
more members than any other in United States. Over one
thousand. Immense quantities bf barley are 'raised in the peat
lands. The wine making industry is a great one. The hand
ling of bees is another. The city of Yuma on the line between
California and Arizona is the hottest place in United States.
Riverside is a beautiful place. Now for the north again.
I must mention the beautiful Santa Clara Valley. If I in
tended to buy a farm in California I should buy a wheat farm
in Santa Clara Valley. Then by rail to Stockton, then by
stage to the big trees. I saw the tree known as the Grizzly
Giant." It was lying on the ground. The father of the

21
forest is three hundred and forty-five teet high, the mother
of the forest, the twins, the three sisters are noted trees. I
ate dinner in a room which was a tree with places cut for
windows and doors. I saw a dancing platform, which was a
tree stump, on which thirty couple could dance at one set.
When I reached Oakland I was delighted by the sight of
ferry steamers crossing to San Francisco. Oakland is where
many business men of San Francisco reside. The crossing
•on the steamer is grand. The fare is fifteen cents. Oak
land is a very beautiful place. So many beautiful homes
and flowers there. A trip to the Cliff house which juts out
over the ocean. Here one can see the sea lions at play in
the sunshine. Below here on the beach, when the tide is
low, one can gather the beautiful shells and corals. One can
spend a few days in Woodard's gardens, there you will see
all the plants, trees, shrubbery, animals, fish and flowers, to
be had from the ends of the earth. There you will meet
the California lion and the boa-constrictor, in his glass box on
his blanket, there you will meet face to face the polar bear of
the north, the arctic fox and the woolly esquimaux dog.
The greatest mystery to me is that all the animals of
the frozen and snowy north are white. The most beautiful
birds I found here. A black swan, a flamingo. The Au-
¦stralian lyre bird. The most beautiful fish aquariums. I
saw many curious things here in both the animal and vege
table kingdoms. One that I shall not forget, as it was out
of the ordinary line of nature. It was a green rose, another
the famous holy ghost flower of pure white. Then the most
beautiful night-blooming-cereus ; a pink pond lily; the beauti
ful ttiagnolias; cape jessamine; the Florida rose and thousands
of the most beautiful flowers. Orange trees containing both
flowers and fruit. I selected of all the animals the white

22
ermine as the favorite. Then a ride through Chinatown.
One can see all one wishes too, of filth, misery and vice.
These Chinese quarters are vile gambling dens, filled with
smokers of opium, in long pipes and tea houses and the Joss
house where he goes to the gods for forgiveness.
In thinking of our Chinese brother. They do every
thing just the 'Opposite from us. Shake their own hand in
stead of your, when you call on them.
Their books are backside first, read from the back to
front, the reading beginning at the bottom of the page and
read toward the top. I suppose it is because they are opposite
us, all the time, while we stand on our feet they stand on
their heads. In the Chinese stores, one sees all manner of
manufactured articles for sale. My attention was attracted
by a toy cow. There are no cows in China and no ' horses.
This toy cow all looked like a cow, but the head looked like
head of a rhinoceros, only smaller, it made the creature look
like anything else but a cow. I don't suppose the toymaker
had ever seen a live cow, but had tried to imitate a picture of
one. Goats milk is the only milk and gotian butter the only
kind obtained in China. The rice and bird nest soups are
not well seasoned with cream and butter.
All their riding is done in boats, or the Sedan chair or
Jinriksha. Tliese carriages are carried by (coolies) hired
persons, sometimes two and sometimes four to a carriage.
The missionaries travel for the greater part in this Way,
through the interior portion of China and Japan.
I must not fail to mention a trip on horseback to Napa
Soda Springs, a distance of eight miles from Napa. This trip
had been planned for some weeks. I was accompanied by
two young ladies, Miss Ella Amesbury, of Brown's Valley
and Miss Katie F. Hamill, of San Francisco. Miss Ames-

23
bury is now a Mrs. Wright of San Diego, and Miss Hamill.
I have lost in the great city of San Francisco. We started at
7 a. m., and reached the springs early in the day. I rode my
uncle's horse that I was accustomed to ride to school, while
I was teaching at Brown's Valley. The other horses were
hired from the livery-man at Napa. The first hour at the
springs was spent in viewing the buildings, seeing the orange
trees and gathering a few blossoms, which they informed us
we could pick. We next called at the hotel, engaged dinner,
had our horses cared for, then we went into the bottle house,
where they were washing and preparing bottles. Soon after
dinner we climbed Springs Mountain and drank the pure soda
water as it comes trickling from the ground. Here are the
large marble vats into which it runs, it is then filled direct in
bottles by the thousands. They are corked as fast as bottled
and ready for use or sale. Near one and eighty men are
here employed.
The Soda Springs are five large springs and a number of
smaller ones. The soda water is much superior to any I
had ever drank in the states. The rocks and scenery at the
springs is perfectly beautiful. The ride home to Napa by
way of Egg Rock Valley. The rocks the shape of ,an egg,
in size all the way from a small bird's egg to that of a common
tub, then we passed the Flat Rock Valley and Nigger Head
Valley. I climbed from my horse and got specimens of these
rocks. There is a fascination about rock hunting in Cali
fornia. You can never tell what beautiful specimens of
petrified wood or arrows you may chance to pick up. We
crossed the Napa river and visited an Indian wigwam. There
was a squaw in the tent with a pappoose. The Indian chief
sat out on the river bank fishing. He was distant near fifty
yards. The squaw had a knife and was scraping the oil from

24
an opossum skin and eating to her hearts content, she stopped
eating as we approached, we did not care to, enter. As we
neared the city bridge the horse of Miss Hamill became un
manageable, she possessed very little experience as a horse
man. She was thrown to the ground. I suddenly dis
mounted and caught her horse. Her horse was wild with
excitement. After a few trials I managed to get her on my
horse. I taking hers. By this time her face was bleeding.
We were near a mile from the city. I simply rode the horse
I was on to Jhe liveryman while Miss Amesbury went with her
to the doctor. Her injuries were not serious, but rather of a
nervous order, but my trip to the springs will not pass from
memory till time is no more with me.
The insane Asylum at Napa I visited. It is a very large
building. The distance around the outside is said to be one
mile. The grounds and yards and flowers were very beau
tiful. My uncle Joseph Howell accompanied me, on this
visit. He was acquainted with the officials there and they
showed us around through nearly every part, except the cells
of those who were dangerous.
In the large hall there were some ten who were almost
well. They had two violins playing and were dancing. It
seems that there are very many insane people in California.
In getting there and the life, there, seems to strain the nerves
of very many people, while some doubtless meet disappoint
ment, or financial failure, while the great rush for gold at
times misleads. Then the hot climate to the eastener is a
great change.

25

HOMEWARD BOUND.
I had my fortune told about a week before I started
east by a gipsy. I had been thinking very mi;ich about taking
a ship at San Francisco, and doubling Cape Horn and land
ing at New York. This trip was planned and I to set sail
by Cunard Line of steamer. This fortune teller told me I
was soon to take a great trip ; that I would have a great accident
on this trip, but by caution and sense I could pass through
unharmed. This spoilt my ocean voyage. My aunt would
listen to nothing of the kind, although neither believed one
thing a fortune teller could say; but I decided to try the
railroad again and as I wished to stop off here and there I
decided to board an "emigrant train," and not hurry at all,
as I had found a man and his wife, by name of Latta, that
were coming that route. We wanted the sights. I had
passed nearly all the snowsheds in the night as I went out
and I had great desire to see these immense snowhouses over
the railroad. I had seen the Devil's Slide, and the Devil's
Gate, the Devil's Canyon and I was expecting to see the old
man himself but I never got a glimpse of him.
I packed a huge lunch basket, had two large paper sacks
as full as could be of fine fruit ; apples, peaches, pears, grapes,
apricots, nectarines. I also had a small valise; a large calico
sack containing a pillow, two fine California wool blankets;
if you could have seen me, you would have wondered how
I expected to take care of all that stuff. Now it was real
easy, I tied the two sacks of fruit together, the sack with
the blankets I put around my neck, when I changed cars at
Napa junction, my uncle came that far. At Sacramento, I
stayed over night and left my fruit, blankets, lunch, all in
the baggage room. My train for home started out of Sacra
mento, November i8, at 6 a. m. I was on the lookout, I

26
passed through eastern California the first day, crossing Dale
Creek bridge, a wooden structure which did not seem so very
safe to me. It was 657 feet long and 250 feet from the
water. I was delighted with a rain shower and a beautiful
rainbow. Then came hailstones about as large as quail eggs.
They made some clatter on the tops of the cars, but fortu
nately for us none came through. The snowsheds aggravated
me, the fine scenery was hidden by these wooden sheds and
in the Sierras, where the scenery is most perfect there is the
shed. You might as well be in the land of the midnight sun,
yet these unsightly sheds are the traveler's best friend in the
winter when pass and cutting are heaped with icy drifts by a
raging Arctic gale. The sixty miles of sheds are not an
inch too long. Where the track is open snow is sometimes
piled up in a solid drift as high as the cross arms of the tele
graph poles, and this mountain sriow, under the intense cold
of the high altitudes is not soft and clinging like the normal
variety, but is granulated by the wind until each particle is a
separate icy pellet, and the whole mass resembles a sandbank
sliding from shovel and plow like dry sand, and rushing down
as fast as it is thrown up and out. It is said before the great
snow plows can work it is often necessary for gangs of shov-
elers to handle and re-handle the snow in the deeper drifts
as many as five times before it can be thrown clear of the
cutting, and the granulated mass has to be thawed sometimes
by a steam hose before the men can make it stay where it is
thrown. The snowshed is an American invention, and is
much more used in the United States than in Canada. The
Canadian Pacific though so many degrees farther nortih has
only six miles of shed while the Union Pacific has sixty miles.
It does not seem at first sight that the snowshed is an
expensive affair, but it has been known to cost sixty-four

27
dollars a foot and be cheap at that, since shovel and plow in
the long run are costly luxuries compared to it. Of course
the mere planks and timbers and labor could not bring it up
to this figure. Each shed is an engineering triumph. It
defends a dangerous point of attack. First the slope of the
hillside must be considered, there must be an open space be
tween the shed for the smoke and steam from the engine to
pass out, but a whole railroad cannot run under sheds. Some
times the snow plows are masked in the snow. In one case
at Truckee, California, in 1876, a train of eight engines ran
a plow into slide pack smashing and disabling plow and
engines, and killing and wounding more than half the crew.
The gang of shovelers is the railroad's last resort, in the
mighty snow fights of each year, man and not his machines
has to conquer here. I left the sheds and were glad they were
out of sight. Sherman is the highest point on the Union
Pacific road, named after General Sherman, the tall and im
posing commander in the Rebellion. Here the snow came
falling fast, the wind whistled through, when doors were
ajar. VISIT TO SALT LAKE.
I passed on from Laramie toward Cheyenne, Wyoming.
We were on great plains while looking to the north we could
see the snow caps of Pike's Peak, in the distance. Night
coming on we were told by the trainmen, that the Indians
had been doing mischief in that section for the past week,
that a conductor of one of the trains had, been shot and we
were in slight danger, that the train would run very slow all
night, in order to have no accidents as the rails were torn
up by them at times. This advice or warning was given us
by a brakeman about 8 p. m., at 10 p. m., we came to a sudden

28
jerk of the train, knew something was wrong. We were
there to stay at least for awhile, our train was derailed and
the engine was off the track. We were at least five miles
from nowhere, could look out of the windows could see no
city lights in the distance; nothirig to be. seen but the great
plains of Wyoming. A foot despatcher was sent back to
the little flag station, which we had passed, a telegram to
Cheyenne for the train No. 86, west bound, to be held there.
Our car windows and doors were ordered fastened to the ut
most. We were there for the night without doubt unless
we were the victims of the savages, who had crippled our train
and stopped us. The conductor ordered every man who
had a revolver to have it ready. That we were liable to an
attack from a band of Apaches, who doubtless would examine
the train to find cattle, but perhaps when they found no stock
on the train we would not be further molested. Our lights
must be put out and we keep profoundly quiet, as if no human
beings were in the cars. At near 12 o'clock, we heard noises
outside, but kept silent as the grave. The conductor had in
formed us that if the Indians came to the cars and found no
one there, they were liable to pass on without molestation.
Several Indians came on horseback, finding two cars of coal
and hearing no noise from cattle, they went off. The con
ductor, engineer and fireman had left the engine and were
in the express car. Two regiments of soldiers came from
Cheyenne and guarded the train while the track was being
repaired, and the engine gotten back on the track. At 4 :30
a. m., we were on the way again, thankful that our lives were
thus spared. We ate a good breakfast at Cheyenne. Here
a gentleman took the train for the east. He took a seat in
front of Miss Parsons and myself. He inquired about our
stay all night on the plains. He also informed us that women

29
were scarce. He said if there were any widows or maids in Illi
nois, where we were going to send them on to Cheyenne. That
they would be gobbled up like hot cakes. I next was made
happy by the sight of the great Platte river, and felt that I
was nearing home, although I was a thousand miles away.
What a long road to the Pacific coast. How I wonder how
my uncle, Daniel Miller, who was born at Hamptonsville,
North Carolina, has reached Sprague, Washington, as his
home. He is nearing his hundredth birthday. Some of his
early life was spent in Kentucky. He was married there, and
came to Illinois, at an early day. Has spent the remainder
of his days in Oregon and Washington, and is now at Fort
Bidwell, Modoc county, California, I rode on the train
in sight of the Platte river as far as three hundred miles, or
until I reached Omaha. I really was glad I was soon to see
home and friends again. Now the muddy Missouri river in
sight. I had vague ideas of Missouri, as I had started out
there once to teach school at Burlington junction, where I
have cousins living, when to my surprise my pocket was cut
out and I lost all my money being $184. I had arrived at
Plymouth, Hancock county, Illinois. I expected to stop off
there to see cousins. I did not go on to Missouri but visited
awhile and came home. I was soon on the Great Burlington
Route to Galesburg, Illinois. I came on to Elmwood and
arriving at 10 p. m., I decided to sleep awhile. I went to a
hotel and went to bed with orders not to awaken me the
next morning. It was a few minutes of eleven o'clock
when I got up. I got ready for dinner. Then fixed
> everything 1 ready to , go home at 3 p. m., to Monica.
I had sent them a telegram at Creston, Iowa, when I would
arrive at Monica. There were some fifteen young people to
meet the train or me I never knew which. I had a fine

30
trip, new experiences that one never meets only in
travel. Had spent plenty of money, had gained in health
and in knowledge of countries, people and things. My
friends were glad of my coming, and I was gladly welcomed.
I had brought the news to mother from her sisters, that she
never met on earth again. Brought some presents to her
from there. But how glad was she to see me, when I re
turned. How it must have grieved her to have me go so
far away and wondering whether her life and mine would
be spared until we should meet again. She has passed from
death unto life. That life is one of tranquil joy for ever
more.

31

. GREAT SALT LAKE CITY.

On my way home from California. I had planned a trip to
Salt Lake City, and as I was in company with a Mr. Latta and
his wife and a Miss Parsons, we all planned to spend a few
days at the famous Mormon City. It seemed I^ knew some
thing of this people, as they had been driven from Illinois,
they then starting for a home in the West. They were at
tracted by this beautiful valley, where the sun ever shines in
the daytime and is replaced at night, by the moonlight. The
water of the Great Salt Lake is clear and transparent, with a
bottom of fine white sand and a margin of incrusted salt.
It is one of the purest and most concentrated brines in the
whole world. Its waters sustain no animal life. There is
not the smallest insect or worm to frighten the timid bather
and the bathing is the most perfect sea-bathing in the' whole
of North America, or in Europe. No human body can sink
in it. One may actually walk the water, no matter how
deep it is. Your body will rise up to the shoulders above
the surface, or you may even sit down in it. No knowledge
of swimming is necessary; one may enter the lake without
the slightest fear; all you have to do is to lie down and float.
But to swim in it is another thing. It is impossible to keep
more than half the body under water at a time. You can
not swim, but you can float on your back and with arms
crossed under your chin, you can smoke. The water is sio
salt that it cannot be swallowed without great danger of
strangulation. A small drop in the eye gives much pain.
But in spite of all the dangers, bathing in the lake is invigor
ating notwithstanding that the body must be bathed again
in fresh water afterwards, to remove the vast quantities of

32
sait, which adheres to the skin. It is hard work to make any
headway against the smallest waves. Nearly half a million
people bathe in this lake every year. They come from all
over the world and tourists are beginning to realize that Salt
Lake City and the magnificent surroundings present a great
scope of novelty and it is destined to become a famous water
ing place. Salt Lake City is a beautiful city. To the north
are the snow-capped peaks of the Utah Mountains. The
Jordan river flowing through the city into the lake. The
streets are wide, allowing a row of trees, and a* stream of
water on both sides of the street. Many of the buildings are
handsome structures. The Amelia Palace or the home of
Brigham Young's favorite wife, among the fine residences.
Her former name was Amelia Folsom, being a cousin to the
wife of Grover Cleveland. I saw Ann Eliza the nineteenth
wife of Brigham Young, heard her lecture on "Mormonisih."
I have also read a famous book by Fanny Stenhouse on "Mor-
monism." There is the great Temple, the Tabernacle. The great
organ with its five thousand pipes. I saw this Brigham
Young seated in his office, talked at least a half hour, next I
saw of him was his bust at the World's Fair in the Utah
section, I met him in 1877. I saw his statue in 1893. I
should like to see more of those Mormon leaders in stone
statues, speechless. His death occurred soon -after my visit
to the city. He informed us he had led the Mormon pion
eers into that arid desert, in 1847 and made it into a beau
tiful fertile valley and a great city. He was a man of won
derful energy, possessed great power of body and mind
Oom Paul Kruger reminds me of Brigham Young. We
think of Young as a strong man, yet we must not forget that
this same man was behind the terrible "Mountain Meadow

33
Massacre" of defenseless emigrants, the defiance of our troops
when they arrived iri Utah and the whole evil system of poly
gamy which the United States is now laboring to root out.
For good and for evil of Mormonism, Brigham Young stands
as the responsible figure and this the traveler to Salt Lake
soon finds out, for the answer to his questions, as to who
built this, or who planned that, the only answer, Brigham
Young. I inquired who built this Tabernacle, "Brigham
Young," was the drivers reply. I said, "Oh of course he
superintended everything, but who was the architect of the
Tabernacle, who designed it?" "Brigham Young," repeated
the driver with a laugh. "'Twas revealed to him how to do
it," so he said. At any rate he had them build it that way,
and if it is funny looking you can hear better in it than any
hall I ever was in. Brigham Young was a Vermonf Yankee
and he was smart I can tell ye. There was no doubt in our
minds as to his smartness when the Tabernacle was entered
and its plan understood. Here is the largest self supporting
arch in America, with one exception, and probably the only
arch of its size without any central support that has ever
been constructed out of wood. The hall has twenty doors,
which open outward, the room can be emptied in a few min
utes, this is an unusual feature and a very good one. This
Tabernacle is freely open to the public, while the great Temple,
at, the other end of the square, is for Mormons alone, and
no Gentiles can enter. "Go to the farther end," said the
care taker "and I will show you the acoustic properties of
the hall by letting a pin drop from this railing." Sure enough
at over two hundred feet away we could hear the pin tinkle
down on the railing as if we had been standing only a few
inches off. Then the scratching of the man's thumb-nail
upon the wood was heard with absolute distinctness.

34
He began to tell us about the building, and every word'
was audible, although spoken in a whisper.
"Did Brigham Young design that organ too?" asked
Miss Parsons, who was one of our party, looking .up- at the
great star of gaslights, with "Utah" outlined between its
points, that stood out on its front. "No Josiah Ridges built
the organ, but his revelation was not a success and it had
to be built over." The organ is now the second largest in
the United States and is said to be one of the sweetest. What
interested us most was the quintuple tier of seats in front of
its golden pipes facing the congregation. On the first row,
next, the part of the great choir sit, this choir ranges from
three hundred to one thousand five hundred voices, as oc
casion requires. They won the second prize of one thousand
dollars at the World's Fair musical contest. While on the
second tier the president of the Mormon church is throned
in state, 'next below come the "Twelve Apostles :" below them
the presidents of states or railroads or invited speakers or
other guests and on the lowest tier the church officials who
dispense the sacrament at the general conference. "It must
take a long time to take the collection here," one of us re
marked laughingly. "No collections are ever taken at the
Tabernacle services," replied our guide, to our astonishment.
We asked how they got money to run the church.
"Wait," said he, "I'll drive you to the Mormon tithing yard.
Each one gives his tenth there every year, so the church has
all it needs without a penny being put in a plate inside its
walls." So we drove by Brigham Young's four houses, where
he and his family of twenty-one wives and seventy-five chil
dren lived in the days — now happily over forever — of open
and permitted polygamy, and into the wide tithing yard of
sheds and bins, where potatoes and wheat and cattle and
horses and farm produce, of every kind, were to be seen on

35
every hand. Each Mormon brings a tenth of whatever he
has and if the tenth does not seem large enough to the church
officials, he is commanded to tithe his possession more hon
estly. There is a lesson indeed, in the Salt Lake "tithing
yard" for many a Christian today.
It is only by means of irrigation that Utah is productive.
There is very little rain there and very little timber. Hogs
fatten on a tuber, called seegose root, which is, highly es
teemed as a table vegetable by the Mormons. The num
ber of acres under cultivation is great. There is a bunch
grass that grows wild which makes fine feed for cattle. It is
nearly the same as the grama grass of New Mexico. The
altitude of Salt Lake Valley is 4,300 feet above sea level.
It is obnsidered one of the most healthy portions of the
globe. On seeing a little boy I asked him whose boy he was.
He answered "Brigham Young's." In passing around the
city, I read over a door a sign, Z. I. O. C. S., which means
Zion's Co-operative Store, where the families of Brigham
Young order their groceries for the week. They are supplied
by the church. Young informed us the Latter Day Saints were
prospering as a church. I met Orson Pratt, then an apostle.
He was thought to be one' of the leaders in "Mountain
Meadow Massacre." The Mormon church sends out today
more missionaries than any half dozen of the Christian
churches. I never saw such a dejected cast down set of
women as at Salt Lake City. ^ Some say the Mormons are
intelligent. Some few are. I think as a white race, they
are a disgrace to the human family. I know no people whom
I think so low in the scale of humanity. And the cheek they
do possess. There have been two missionaries in our town the last
few months. They call and pray for you, give you- valuable

36
literature. They came to me. I told them I had no use for
them. They said if I only knew them I would think them
good. I told them I knew too much. I never knew much
good they did.
I was glad to go on to Ogden and start on for the east.
At Ogden the trainmen took dinner and when I was eating
my lunch I had put up at Salt Lake, a woman of near forty
years of age, was sitting near me. I had not noticed her
before. She was weeping. I was sorry for her. I saw she
was dressed in deep mourning. I offered her some lunch, she
refused saying she had eaten nothing for two days. I asked
what was the matter, as she sobbed violently. She told me
as fast as she could talk, that she had just come from Salt
Lake City where she had been compelled to go with her hus
band, for him to take another wife. He and his new wife
went out to the Depot Hotel to dinner, that they would be in
soon. She said the girl he had married was fifteen, she had
taken her as an orphan at six years old and the girl seemed
almost like her child. She then told me they could not get
married without her placing the right hand of the girl, in the
right hand of her husband. She had done this and Brigharh
Young performed the ceremony according to the rites of the
Mormon church. She was on her way home to a farm in
eastern Utah, the girl would still live in the same house with
her, as she did before. This was to me a sad tale.
I next stopped at Green river, there two Indian chiefs
brought a deer onto the platform of our car and rode with us
near twenty miles. They had eagle feathers in their hair
and bear's claws strung around their necks. They were
Cheyenne Indians and had been to Green' river on a big deer
hunt. We stopped at Laramie City, the old fort being forty
miles to the north.

37

LECTURE ON MORMONS.

This lecture was delivered by Artemus Ward, on the
Mormons. During the lecture he was solemn as the grave. Some
times he would forget his audience, and stand for several min
utes gazing intently at his panorama. Then he would say,
"If you feel dissatisfied with anything here tonight, I will
admit you all free in New Zealand, — if you will come to me
there for orders. Any respectable cannibal can tell you just
where I live." This shows that I possess a forgiving spirit.
I don't really care for money, I only travel around to see
the world, and gratify my idle curiosity, and yes, to shoW
my clothes, I have some pantaloons now that are a sight,
holes in behind, my wife says, caused by too much sitting
but hens set, and I never saw any holes in their pantaloons,
but I have seen feathers all over their legs. I have made great
success in America. I like America, but I don't think Amer
ica likes me. I have had rheumatism there and once I came
near getting the smallpox. I saw a big snake once, it fright
ened me so, I declared I would take the first ship for Ireland,
for you know there are none there. St. Patrick drove them
out. One good deed he did if he never did another.
I am not an artist. I don't paint myself though perhaps,
if I were a middle aged lady, I should — yet I have a passion
for pictures; I have had a great many pictures, photographs
taken of, myself. Some of them are very pretty, rather sweet
too look at for a short time, — and as I said before, I like
them. I've always loved pictures. I could draw on wood
at a very tender age. When a mere child, I once drew a
small cartload of raw turnips over a wooden bridge. The

88
people of the village noticed me. I dreW their attention.
They said I had a- future before me. Up to that time I had
thought it was behind me.
Time passed on. It always does by the way. Time
passed on. I became a man. I have not distinguished myself
as an artist, but I have always been more or less mixed up
with art. I have an uncle who takes photos, — and I have a
servant who takes, — anything he can get his hands on. When
I was in Rome, — Rome in New York, I mean, — a sculpist
wanted to sculp me. But I said "No!" I saw through the
designing man. My model once in his hands, — he would have
flooded the market with my busts — and I could not stand it to
5ee everybody going about with a bust of me. Where are
the boy's of my youth? Some are arriongst you here, — some
are in America, — some are in jail. Where are the girls of my
youth? Some are married. Some would like to be. Oh, my
Maria 1 Alas ! she married another. They frequently do.
I hope she is happy, — because I am. Some people are not
happy, I have noticed ffiat. A gentleman friend of mine came
to me one day with tears in his eyes. I said, "why these
weeps ?" He said he had a mortgage on his farm and wanted
to borrow two hundred pounds. I lent him the money — and
he went away. Sometime after he returned with more tears.
He said he must leave me forever. I then ventured to re
mind him of the two hundred pounds he borrowed. He was
much cut up. I thought I would not be hard on him, — so I
told him I would throw off one hundred pounds. He bright
ened up, shook my hand, and said : "Old friend, I won't allow
you to outdo me in liberality. I'll throw off the other hun
dred." As a manager I was always more successful than as
an actor. Some years ago, I engaged a celebrated living
American skeleton for a tour through Australia. He was

39
the thinnest man I ever saw. He was a splendid skeleton.
He didn't weigh scarcely anything; and I said to myself:.
"The people of Australia will flock to see this tremendous
•curiosity." It is a long voyage as you know, from New
York to Melbourne, and, to my utter surprise, the skeleton had
no sooner got out to sea than he commenced eating in a most
horrible manner. He said he had never been on the ocean
before, and he said it agreed with him. I thought so ! I never
saw a man eat so much in all my life. Beef, mutton, pork;
he swallowed them all like a shark; and between meals he
was often discovered behind barrels, eating hard "boiled eggs,
•or eggs not cooked at all. They called that sucking the
¦ eggs. The result was that when we reached Melbourne, this
infamous skeleton weighed sixty-four pounds more than I
did! I thought I was ruined but I wasn't. I took him on
to California, another very long sea voyage, and when I got
him to San Francisco, I exhibited him as a fat man. This
story hasn't, anything to do with my entertainment, I know,
but one of the principal features of my entertainments is that
it contains so many things that don't have anything to do
with it. My orchestra is small, but I am sure it is good as
far as it goes. I give my pianist ten pounds a night — and
"his washing. I like music, but I can't sing a tune. As a
singist I am not a success. I am saddest when I sing. So
are those who hear me. They are sadder even than I am.
I found music very soothing when I was sick in Utah, I was
very ill. I had wasted away, nothing but skin and bones.
My nose was so sharp I didn't care to stick- it into other peo
ple's business, — for fear it would stay there — and I should
never get it out again. And on those dismal days a Mormon
lady, — she was married, — though not so much as her hus
band, — he had fifteen wives, — she used to sing a ballad com-

40
mencing, "Sweet bird, do not fly away!" — and I told her I
would n't. She played the. accordion divinely,^ — accordionly
I praised her.
I met a man in Oregon who hadn't any teeth, — not a
tooth in his head, — yet that man could play on a bass drum
better than any one else I ever met. He kept a hotel. They
have queer hotels in Oregon. I remember one night when
they gave me a bag of oats for a pillow. I had nightmares,
of course. In the morning, the landlord said, "How
do you feel, old hoss, hay.'" I told him I felt my oafs.
At San Francisco I went to a Chinese theater. A Chinese
play often lasts two months. Commencing at the
hero's birth, it is cheerfully conducted forward until he is
dead or married. The night I was there, a Chinese comic
vocalist sang a Chinese comic song. It took six weeks to
finish it; but as my time was limited, I went away at the
expiration of two hundred and fifteen verses. There were
eleven thousand verses to this song. The chorus was tural,
lural, dural, ri fol day, — which was repeated twice at the end
of each verse, making as you will see, twenty-two thousand
"tural, lural, dural, ri fol davs" — and the man still lives.

41

TRIP TO ARIZONA.

It was on December i, 1897, that Storey and I started
on our extended trip to Arizona, we had decided to take the
Santa Fe and to reach it we had to take the Chicago and
Alton railroad to Kansas City. It had been a beautiful day,
one of my especial friends had taken dinner with me, and
land knows how many callers I had, during the day. My
lady friend was a lawyer's wife, from Bloomington, and a
mighty talker, for one of her size. We left our cozy home,
in the suburbs of Normal our three children, horse, cow, chick
ens, and a couple of cats, in charge of a maiden lady, who had
never married, either from choice, thinking like Paul of single
blessedness or in other words her lover might have died or
been killed, or got some other girl. I don't think it was that
she could not get anyone, no I am quite sure it was not that
she had never had a chance. She was really to particular to
link her life, with that of a man, without knowing how he
would turn out. There are such women in the world you
know. I always thought the way to do, was to marry one and
turn him out the right way. We had supper at home, as our
train did not start until 9 p. m., our tickets having been
purchased the day before, so that we would have nothing to
bother us, except our huge lunch basket and telescope. Storey
would not let me take an umbrella, he said it never rained out
there where we were going. We went to Bloomington on a
street car. Our tickets called for sleepers, but no sleeper could
be obtained. But we were not in mood for sleep, everything
seemed fresh in our minds, so we decided that we would wait
to take a sleeper, until we reached Kansas City. As it was,
we had very comfortable chairs in a nice Chicago and Alton

42
coach. About twelve o'clock, Storey thought he might as
well sleep, as there was not much to pass the time for him,
sleep being the easiest thing for him to do, unless it was to
eat and he had not yet become hungry. He was soon in the
land of dreams. Things went on well for some time, when
all of a sudden the train gave a quick jerk and suddenly stop
ped. We had run against a circumstance of some kind, I
knew not what. The men were excited, those who were
awake, while the women all slept but me, but somehow I felt
that something might happen, I would stay awake and see.
I always meant when death came to be ready, let it be on sea
or land. Some of the men went out of the car to find if they
could, what the matter was. It was in the state of Missouri
where the James' boys had held up so many trains, committing
such bold robberies. They had simply struck a coal shute,
knocked off the cab from the engine throwing both engineer
and fireman, from the train. They were both unconscious the
last we knew. The train had run some distance without either,
when the conductor perceiving his situation backed the train a
few miles to Higby, Missouri. Got a new engine and men, and
we were soon on our way thankful for our lives.
The next morning we arrived at Kansas City, thank
ful that we were in the land of the living. We saw the Santa
Fe agent at Kansas City, asked him if sleepers were readv for
us. He said he had our names for upper berths. No upper
berth for me, it was too much for me to be laid on a shelf
for the night. I told him, I did not want any such a thing,
he s^id, we had better see Mr. Conductor, that possibly we
might make better arrangements, I thought to myself that
it would be hard to make any worse arrangements than to lay
on that shelf, and if the train were to jerk much I might
be pitched right out in the walkway of the car, or fall on

43
some colored porter as he passed through. I told Storey in
plain language that I was too large a woman, that I could
not climb to that perch, even if I were so willed. We sought
the conductor of our train, a bulldog of a fellow I shall never
forget his surly way, but finally he told us, to go into the
chair car, while he did a few errands and he thought he
could give us a lower berth near the middle of the coach.
We went into the chair car as requested, but instead of his
coming for us, as he agreed to do, he climbed on a train of
eight sleepers, which were detached from our train and was
last seen at full speed leaving us to pleasant dreams. I told
Storey, if I could get hold of that conductor, I would leave
him bald-headed. There were numerous other passengers,
who had been treated fully as badly. Two ladies, in particular,
who were going from Chicago, to Los Angeles, California.
They had paid for their berths, had taken their baggage and
lunch into the sleeper, but were told to come into the chair car
while the sleeper was being dusted. There they were with us,
a madder set of women you never saw, but we were com
forted by the conductor of our train, by he telling us, that
we would catch up with the other train, that he would tele
graph the other conductor to wait at Topeka, Kansas, or La
Junta, Colorado. Said conductor did stop at Topeka, and
leave the night clothes of those women and their suppers,
which he had taken on in his pell-mell rush for the west.
We had to make the best of things, the air was growing
colder and little spits of snow came through the open win
dows. I was puzzled, what was I to do with Storey for the
night. He could not stand the trip without sleep. I fixed
him as cozy as possible in the corner of a seat, his feet reach
ing to another, his being long-legged was an advantage at this
time, while I covered him with his own overcoat and one of a

44
little Englishman, who was kind enough to offer his. He
was a fearless horse-trainer, having been hired by some great
horseman of San Francisco, to go to New York City, to ride
in the world's races, that were being held there. He reminded
one of the Darwin theory, he was so cunning and active.
This Englishman was very small, and as active as any
monkey. He had been a circus rider and traveled several years
with P. T. Barnum, the great showman. He looked to be
about twenty years of age, but said he was forty. He had
traveled in Mexico, in Central America, South America. He
had a wonderful memory, as well as high degree of talent. He
was the "Tom Twist" we read of, turn ten summersaults
backward, then stand half an hour on his head. He was a
fine scholar, a gentleman in conversation and appearance. I
felt Very thankful for his overcoat, for without it Storey would
have chilled. I did not sleep any at all on this second night
on the train, very little the first one. I was very sleepy, on
the next morning and I thought I could sleep on the final shelf.
I saw that I must sleep a little in daytime in order to stand
the trip. I did not deem it safe for both of us to sleep at the
same time. We were in a rough portion of country, our car
had some fine characters in it too, but we did not know what
kind of people they were. The time passed off pleasantly,
while passing through Kansas, I had been nearly to the Colo
rado line.
My mind now recalled the unpleasant trip across the
Smoky Hill river in a prairie schooner, drawn by two mules,
my brother Albert Miller and- I were visiting, at Nathan
Stowell's, near Gove City, Kansas, and desiring to visit R. B.
V. Deal, in Lane county, we started. The distance was near
fifty miles, to the south. There was no railroad by which we
could reach our friends. There was five in the wagon. The

45
mules were good travelers, they became somewhat frightened
at my brother's shooting at antelope. It was near noon when
we reached the banks of the Smoky Hill river. There were
no bridges across the water streams in this section and we
were to cross the old way of fording. There were several
tracks, at different places into the river and from the looks of
things it was extremely difficult to decide, where was the
best place to cross. We selected one where the opposite bank
was not steep. I begged the men to tie the wagon bed on
with the long grazing ropes, which we had with us. They did
not deem it necessary to tie the bed on, but to satisfy me they
did. When we had gotten well into the middle of the stream
the mules stopped. We knew what the matter was, we had
struck quicksand. We were sinking deeper and deeper into
the sand the water was almost in the wagon-box. Had it not
been tied, we would have taken a float in a white canoe down
the Smoky Hill river. We whipped and yelled at the mules,
until the wagon was moving. We kept whipping them, until
we were safely across. I have no use for a mule, since that
day. We returned in p. few days to Gove county, but found out
a better crossing.
Our conductor had told us that we would change cars at
La Junta, Colorado, and possibly we might outflank, that
old conductor and get a, sleeper for the next night. When
we arrived there the snow was falling fast and we
seemed in what was a higher altitude. We looked
around for an old friend, Henry Wheeler, who had taken
his Whipp and settled out there. I had heard of his fine straw
berries. I should have thought that the last place on earth,
to raise strawberries. We now turned our course of travel
to the south. We soon beheld the Spanish Peaks in the dis
tance covered with snow. They were miles and miles, from

46
us, but they seemed very near. We next arrived at Trinidad.
We had an old German lady on our train, who talked dutch,
she had trouble with her heart, in this high altitude. I was
troubled with nose-bleed. We next reached Raton Pass and
tunnel, altitude 9000 feet above the sea. Next we are trund
ling over the stones at Albuquerque. It seemed we were in
a stone quarry, in an ox wagon. We were now turning south
west to the great plains of New Mexico and Arizona. This
was a long mountonous ride over the desert, our grub-basket
was still pretty well filled, I had taken so much. I had the
good luck to keep my appetite all the way, but poor Storey
longed for his horhe victuals, he was not use to eating cold
victuals, he declared it would kill him.
The scenery changed from the vast plain to low moun
tains, the foot-hills of the Rockies. Many gorges, rocks, small
pines now met our view. As we approached Flagstaff, the
pines were larger, here were sawmills, huge lumber yards.
Here is where one takes the stage to go. to the Grand Canyon
of the Colorado. Here we saw all kind of Indian traps for
sale. On we sped until we reached a great tunnel, this tunnel
is near the town of Williams. About ten days after we reached
Prescott, this tunnel took fire from volcanic combustion, ren
dering it impossible for trains to pass, until a way was cut
around the tunnel. Many men lost their lives in the fire, and
in trying to repair the tunnel. We had thought sure to have
a sleeper to ride in by this time, but no sleeper. We were get
ting quite weary and reached Ash Fork at 4 p. m. Here we
had to leave our California party, but three gentleman of the
party took the Prescott and Phoenix railroad with us. I in
quired of the conductor, soon after our train started, what time
we would arrive at Prescott. He said it would not be late,
but that it would be after dark. Such mountain scenery I had

47
not beheld since my trip home from California in 1876. I
had sent a letter to my cousins at Prescott, telling them -when
I left home. I had one own cousin and two second cousins,
that I had seen, also my cousin J. L. Miller and his son's
widow. I knew my cousin S. C. Miller was away from home. He
was out in the Squaw Peak country, that Cousin Jacob was at
his home, at Skull Valley about twenty miles south of Prescott.
When the whistle blew, my heart was in my mouth, I wondered
if anyone would meet us. When we alighted from the cars,
there stood my second cousin M.rs. Sanders and her daughtef,
a young lady. My cousin Sam's only daughter, Hetty and his
second son, Henry, were there to welcome us. We rode to
their home, a mile distant to Miller's Valley, where a large
fire-place, filled with large pine logs welcomed us. Such a
smell from the burning pine. Cousin Sam's wife was glad to
see us. She and her mother were the first white woman in Ari
zona. Many of her husband's relatives have visited them in the
West. She holds a ready welcome to all. Here we found three
little boys: Sam, John and little Tom, who was a bright boy of
three years. Another member of the family, I must not fail
to mention. A man, whom they called Hela because of his
huge dimensions. He was near seven feet high, of large and
powerful frame, weight three hundred pounds. He had
been in the family fifteen years. He was one of
the most faithful of creatures. His age he did not exactly
know, but he came from Indiana, at an early date.
My cousin's house was an old landmark. Part of it built
of logs, in the early days of Arizona. He had built on to it
at different times. Here was the stone foundation of his large
barn, which the Indians had burned. Here he has farmed,
freighted and fought Indians. He told us of many hair-

48
breadth escapes from them. At iimes his buildings being
fired by them, his only method of escape being his good horse
and sharp shooting. He was a member of the Fourteenth
Legislature. He has moved the capital of Arizona three times,
from Prescott to Tuscon, then back to Prescott, then from
Prescott to Phoenix. My cousin J. L. Miller's home was at
Skull Valley, twenty miles to the south. ,
He died at Prescott April 7, 1899. On April 8, his wife
died at Neosha, Kansas. She was a Miss Jane Reeves, of
Princeville, Illinois.' S. C. Miller discovered the first gold
in Arizona on Lynx creek. We remained at Prescott for two
months, and during that time I never heard of a d'eath, nor saw
a funeral train. I never saw such healthy rosy cheeked chil
dren, the climate is one of perpetual sunshine. No wind to
speak of. At Prescott light snow in winter. The snow would
lie on the limbs of trees for days, no wind to blow it off. Al
titude of Prescott is 5400 above the sea. In the fall, horses
are shipped to Phoenix, to winter on alfalfa pasture.
In many parts of Arizona, one can sleep out of doors
the year round, simply by spreading a canvas on the snow,
and then putting down the bed. There is no moisture from
dew, or rain. In the north, pine wood is the fuel, but in the
south they burn mosquite and iron-wood. The iron-wood,
when burning throws out a delicate perfume, sornething like
old soap grease. I liked the smell of the burning pine at
Prescott. It seemed healthy, the only bad thing about the
heavy pines, that I heard was, that they bred bed-bugs, mak
ing it hard for housekeepers to keep rid of them. It was here
at Miller's Valley that I was again tempted to teach. There
was a small school, and the directors were anxious to have
me teach it, offering me seventy-five dollars per month. But
Storey could not spare me six hours a day for the little ur-

49
chins, so I declined. They had a teacher, a woman, I
will not say a lady, they dismissed her because she
drank too much whisky. Here at Prescott I saw a
large gold nugget, it was worth five hundred and fifty dol
lars. It was held by one of the banks. Here we met Louis
Stevenson, son of Ex-Vice-President Stevenson, of our home
town, Bloomington, Illinois. He gave me some fine mineral
specimens. He was superintendent of forty mines, known as
the Phoebe Hearst mines, widow of the late Senator Hearst,
from California. Stevenson is now in New Mexico.
I heard here of the Cliff Dwellers, in their homes in the
rocks. Perhaps none that I had met at the World's Fair:
I was ever interested in the world at large, wanted to see
and know, what was in the world, and everywhere I have
been, I have poked in my nose, to find out all I could without
bging thought too inquisitive. I must confess, that I do think
the nicest thing in the world, for one to do, is to travel, ex
plore and study, what you come in contact with, and do all
the good you can. This is what Paul did. What the great
and good Moody did. How good for the passengers of the
sinking vessel, to have Moody on board. Just think of his
prayer, to save them, when he left the stateroom, where he
had taken his son William, and Captain Howard to pray, how
he calmed the passengers, by telling them a ship would come
for them, that he was there, that his life work for God was not
yet done. In only a few hours, came the ship, Huron and
took them safely to Queenstown, Ireland. There he preached
to those who had been on the sea, and those who were on the
land, pointing them to the Lamb of God, which taketh away
the sin of the world. Think of his last words "God is call
ing me." I heard him preach at the great Auditorium, in
Chicago, in time of the World's Fair, also at Galesburg, 111.,

50
for the period of one week at State Sunday School Conven
tion. At Prescott I visited the cemetery, as my Uncle John
Miller was buried there. He had gone to California before
I was born. He was buried, October 7, 1877. The rock was-
blasted for his grave. Here now. lies his son J. L. Miller,.
April 8, 1899.
Here are some Chinese graves covered with rice, pork, tea,.
and chopsticks so the dead can eat on the way to Eternity.
The cemetery is a picturesque place. The trips over the rocks,,
were delightful, the air seemed so bracing and balmy. I
visited the Chinese stores, bought a back scratcher, as I thought
that would be a useful article in a family and Storey thought
so too. It consists of an ivory hand with fingers and thumb,,
the whole glued into a hardwood handle of mansanita. The
vegetation to me was a novelty. Instead of the oak, the elm,.
hickory, walnut, maple, there is the cedar and pine, the mos
quite sage bush. At Phoenix, we find all the tropical fruits.
Very little in some of the Mountain Valleys. They raise
peaches in the Black Hills, eighteen miles from Prescott. At
Skull Valley we found fine Ben Davis apples, that were home
grown. A letter from a lady friend in Phoenix dated January
28, 1900, says, "not one bad day yet this winter, but perfect
sunshine." Soil at Prescott is sandy. Chinese do nearly all
the gardening. Storey was offered a position in the bank of Arizona as
bookkeeper. Salary one hundred dollars a month, but as my
life partner had never taken up that line of business he felt
inadequate to the task.
The people of Arizona are trying hard to reach state
hood. There are many Mormon settlements in different sec
tions, doubtless might send a man to Congress, who would try

51
as hard as B. M. Roberts, for a seat. All such men deserve
seats, in a stone -penitentiary, but not in Washington, D. C,
in the Congress of United States. In Arizona there is a
stream of water known as the Hasayampa creek, the story
is told, that one who crosses this stream, or drinks of its
waters never tell the truth again. They will never leave the
territory and stay. Like the cat, they will come back. Now I
don't believe in ghosts, and do not favor any kind of super
stition, but if you were out there awhile, you would think
there might be some truth in it. It was on this creek, called
by some a river, that the richest gold fields are found. The
town of Wickenburg is near the Hasayampa. It is now on
the Prescott and Phoenix railway. The residents of Wicken
burg are mostly miners and their families and Mexicans. It
was on the stage route from Los Angeles, California to Pres
cott. Prescott is in the center of a rich mining district, the city
situated in a basin with mountains on all sides. A delightful
climate for summer and winter. It is the county seat of
Yavapai county. It has three banks, several large hotels, five
churches, bakeries, restaurants, stores, saloons, assay offices
and is a city in every respect. I never saw a single police
man, during my sojourn there. The criminal is arrested
by a posse and sheriff. Every man is his own policeman.
Prescott suffered a great fire this year, caused by a man
lighting a match to get a glass of beer. They have a
nice court house with a large plaza, in full Mexican style.
The mineral wealth attracted my attention. In the jewelry
stores, they were no brass things. It was common
to see a fifty dollar ring. Some of the most beautiful jew
els lever saw were there. There were minerals from different
mining sections placed in windows, piles of valuable onyx

52
lying about. Mr. Blandy, general superintendent of the mines,
gave me some of the finest samples all labeled, to take with
me to my home in the east. I have some fine samples of onyx.
Storey saw one block of it weighing 9500 pounds at the Santa
Fe depot. It was to be shipped east, had been hauled from
the mines, on a large wagon drawn by sixteen horses. The
wheels of the wagon were as high as a man. These horses
were driven by one line.
Mines could be reached in any direction from Prescott, at a
distance of from ten to one hundred miles. There are stages
to all the mines, besides ore teams and pack mules. The great
copper mine, at Jerome is the richest copper mine in the world.
Jerome has suffered two great fires. Tom Morrow
and his oldest son, from Head of Elms, Texas, are at
Jerome. Mr. Morrow will be remembered by old friends
at Princeville, Peoria county, Illinois. His wife was Mary
Jane Irwin, daughter of Samuel Irwin, of Princeville,
Illinois. The names of the mines are even of in
terest. The following names, I mention as some of
the most noted. Big Bug mines were on the Big Bug
creek; Sunset, Chapparell, Red Rock, Silvel Cliff, Big Crow,
The Congress, Lost and White Lady mines. There is a large
and high mountain, just north of the Miller ranch, about a
mile from Prescott, known as Thumb Butte. Be where you
would this mountain was always facing you. In the north
east part of Miller's Valley is Fort Whipple, a United States
military post It was established there as a protection to the
Whites from Indians. We visited the' Fort at different times,
as it was a nice walk from Prescott. At 9 a. m., each morn
ing the soldiers were out for drill. I enjoyed the fine music
very much, and see the tall commander giving his orders, to
his soldiers. At sunrise every morning a cannon was fired at

53
the Fort to awaken the soldiers, ere the morning star. I
obtained from a- soldier, a cartridge from his Crag-Jargason
gun. These guns are the finest thing in the gun line, I ever
saw. They held sixteen cartridges, then there were sixteen
more in the soldier's belt, ready to re-load when the gun was
empty. No wonder they shot the Spaniards. In the spring
of 1898, Fort Whipple was abandoned, the soldiers were sent
to Jefferson Barracks, Missouri, they were then sent on in a
few weeks to Cuba. The soldier's home at Fort Whipple are
now empty. Many sad hearts in the mountain city when the sol
diers left for the east, but such is war. These soldiers knew
nothing of Indian fighting. Indians don't care for blue clothes,
laced boots and cocked hats. One old mountaineer will kill
more Indians than a whole regiment of stepping soldiers.
Such moonlight I never saw as at Prescott, nor such sunshine
as at Phoenix. The moonlight almost equalled pur electric
light. After we had been at Cousin Sam's awhile, and visited
my other cousins, we decided to get some furnished rooms
and keep house. We found a fine room with a fire-place. We
enjoyed the fire-place so much at Cousin Sam's, we thought
this room just the thing.
We had stayed there just one night, when Stoiey declared
he could not stand it. The fire-place smoked. Storey said that
smoke Was all right for bacon and dried beef, but it not apply
in his case. We found out by talking with people that instead
of smoke wanting to rise, as it did in Illinois, that it had no^
desire of going up any farther, but remain with us, unless the \
fire-place was very large and had a free draught. It is a.ll ir :
the altitude. One can scarcely boil eggs, beans must boil a
good half day if you want them digestible. We decided that
we move again, our eyes almost out. Storey mqst have his
regular amount of sleep. We found two rooms near by, got

54
moved. We were then invited to Cousin Sam's to see his old
est son Robert and his wife, who had come to visit them.
His son lived to the southwest near forty miles, on the Santa
Maria river. Their home was known as "Happy Camp."
There were no white people living nearer than twenty miles,
but the Indians were the friendly tribes of the Walapais.
These Indians are a strong healthy set, but very filthy. Their
houses are made of the branches of trees, but some of them live
in tents. The climate is warm in the Santa Maria Valley. No
snow ever falling there. It is a great cattle section. Robert
Miller is a cattleman.
The Indians are an interesting race. From the time they
were first seen by Columbus until the present time.
There are at this writing thirty-seven thousand Indians in
Arizona. This includes those at the two Indian schools at
Phoenix and Tuscon. I visited the school at Phoenix, on
asking an Indian, if he liked to be a white man, he said no,
white men all squaws. (He meant white men have to work.)
While in Prescott I visited my second cousin, Mrs. Serilda
Carter. She has a nice home in the city, her husband
has a cattle ranch eighteen miles distant in the Black
Hills. They spend their winters in the city, as Mr. Carter
fills different offices at the court house. I have another
second cousin in Prescott. Mrs. Cynthia Sanders. She had
located in Prescott for the schools, but her home is on a
ranch at Hillside, forty miles away, near the famous "Egg
Rock." This rock sets upon another large rock. The egg
iis about fifty feet in length. At Prescott I met the Reverend
Chas. Jenness and wife, the Methodist minister and his wife.
I found them fine people, and a Baptist man and his wife, by
name of Clos. I met an Assayer, Barnhart, who bought of an
old miner a bag of ore for twenty-five dollars one Saturday

55
morning, but before sundown it was melted into a gold bar and
sold for seventy dollars. It was this Assayer who offered his
fine mineral cabinet, in exchange for a pretty girl. The cab
inet was one of the finest things I ever saw. Valued at five
hundred and fifty dollars. Women are scarce. Our surplus
of old maids and grass widders would do well to migrate.
After two months in and around Prescott, we finding the
air chilly decided to move southward, making a stop at Skull
Valley, twenty miles to the south. The place was so named
as the few whites there had placed an old Indian skull, on a
high post, to mark the station, and many an Indian and white
skulls are scattered over the valley. This was down hill all
the way from Prescott, and south of Prescott, and it is so
queer for the train to start to the northwest but it was easier
"to go around the mountain, than to cut a tunnel through it.
This Skull Valley we reached at 2 o'clock, in the morning. My
cousin's widow lived two miles from the station. The train
was late. Our cousins had been for us but had gone home.
There was a boarding house, the depot and one saloon and one
or two houses in the village. The agent informed us, that
my cousins would come for us very early in the morning. We
went to the boarding house, got a bed, slept some but before
we were through breakfast, Charley Miller, a third cousin, was
after us. We were gladly welcomed, by Rachel, my second
¦cousin's widow, her husband being found dead in bed by her
side. She had just returned from Kansas City, where she had
been for surgical treatment, when he died. She was left with
seven children, and a mortgage on her home. She has paid
the mortgage, her oldest daughter was two years a teacher in
the county schools, her two oldest sons are grown. Harley
is seventeen years old and six and one-half feet in height.
-She bought and paid cash for a Home Comfort cook-

56
stove while I was there. Her daughter is now married, to
Roy Redden, of Teinpe, and while this book is writing
Mrs. Redden has died of raeasels leaving two small chil
dren. Her oldest son Charley, won first prize, at Phoenix
Cattle Show for being the quickest one to lasso and
tie a brute, to brand. He accompHshed the feat, in
three minutes and a half. Second cousin Roll Miller, his
father is buried at Skull Valley. A nice monument marks the
place. It can be seen from the depot. His death was caused by
heart trouble. This valley was a good place to raise corn,
hay, garden, but the chief industry is cattle raising. Three
miles from this station to the east were rich gold mines. At
the station I saw an old man, McFinnan by name, who owned
a mine close by, each day he shouldered his pick, and packed
his mule with such' things as he wanted, would go to his mine
and dig until he got as much as he wanted, then would use
that until it was gone, then go and dig more. He only had
one arm, his left arm being torn off in a quartz mill. It
seemed queer to me, that he could dig his gold and trade it
for tobacco, flour, or anything he wanted, but such is life in
Arizona. , The next house south of my Cousin Rachel's, lived an
other relative, the oldest daughter of Cynthia Sanders, but
now married to Edward Blackburn. Her husband had killed
three deer during. the winter. We had some of the venison.
Here we saw home grown apples of Ben Davis variety that
were fine.
There was a dknce at the school-house while we were
there. Some of the dancers came twenty miles. We did not
attend. There were some thirty couple in attendance. As
there was only one daily passenger train, we took the evening
train for Phoenix, ^lowever it was not behind time, and we

57
got started before Storey got sleepy. Our tickets were so very
accommodating, we could stop off where we liked, stay as
long as we pleased, and not a whimper out of the conductors.
They were filled with holes. We got to Phoenix at near 2
o'clock in the morning, stopped at nearest hotel.
We had an old friend of ours, from Illinois pass through
Prescott, bound for Phoenix. He had been in California for
the year and decided to try Phoenix. His name was William
Wilson, he was an interesting gentleman of near fifty years
and unmarried. He was not stingy. He had given six thou
sand dollars to missions the year before. He had informed
Storey that he would stop, at the Alhambra Hotel, in
Phoenix. We went to the hotel, but he had gone out into
the country to a Mr. Rodmans, a man from M'cLean county,
Illinois. We decided to find the Mayor of Phoenix as we
had a letter to him from Cousin Sam at Prescott. We found
the Mayor and gave our letter and he assisted us in gei|fting
rooms for house-keeping. His name was James Monohan,
We found several persons from home. Ex-Governor Hamil
ton, Dr. Cole and family. Mr. Grier and family. Mr. Bates
inquired, why all the trains run in the night. Answer was,
to take the dead people out, without the live ones, finding it
out. Phoenix has many fine buildings, hotels. Ford and
Adams are among the best. Many fine stores, good pave
ments, electric lights, street cars, run by electricity. We found
a house to suit at last. It was handy to the postofifice. No
free delivery of mail, either there or at Prescott. The only
thing they were behind in.
Our home in Phoenix was on the corner of First avenue
and Van Buren street It was near the Methodist church, the
school building of one of the wards, in the next block across
the street. We called on Dr. Cole, at his office. Mrs. Cole

58
called on me. The flies bothered me considerable, our rooms
were on the south side of the house; we were too warm. I
suffered with the heat in midwinter. In August the heat is
intolerable, killing flies, mosquitoes; the heat kills all the
insect life. The inhabitants in the hot weather change under
wear several times a day. But it is no trouble to dry under
wear for the sun is so hot, that anything will dry that is
out doors. Here we met Dr. Lewis Halsey the Baptist minister of
the First Baptist church. He was a fine man. Had come to
Phoenix from New York City in 1895 on account of
his wife's health, who had lung trouble. Phoenix is
a wonderful place for the lungs, but too many go there
too late. I met several persons there who appeared
in fair health said to possess one lung. A letter
from a friend in Phoenix states Mrs. Halsey died January 2,
1900. We found many pleasant people in Phoenix. A Mr.
Arthur Fisher and wife. He was the proprietor of the Star
bakery. He was very kind to us. He took us out with his
family several times in his surrey, for a drive around the
city. The alfalfa fields were very green on February 5, and
about three feet high.
I met a Mr. Greene, and his sister Mrs. Ellen Griffin,
formerly of Peoria, Illinois. ' I rode to the bed of Salt river,
to find it dry, the water all being turned into the canals, for
irrigating purposes. The river bed was full of sand, to the
south of the river are the Phoenix Mountains. The insane
asylum is located southeast of the city on the Tempe road.
My cousin Thomas Miller was buried in Asylum Cemetery,
in 1892. There are more cases of insanity in Arizona, ac
cording to population than anywhere in United States. It
seems the hot climate, the altitude, excitement and drink are
the elements that rack the brain.

59
A Rev. Brewer, from Clinton, Iowa, was at Phoenix at the
same time, we were. He informed me that an old childhood
friend of mine, who lives at Clinton, Jacob Walliker was a
deacon in his church being of Baptist denomination. Had
a fine family and fine home. We visited the high school.
There to our surprise we met an old Normal graduate, Mr.
Blount, whose wife had been an old classmate with Storey.
After we introduced ourselves and he finding that we were
from his old home, he took us through the building introduc
ing us to his teachers, and thus making us feel at home. The
schools of Arizona are fine. Teachers have to work for certi^-
cates. I saw the fine home of Whitelaw Reid who claims the
clirqate there equal to that of Southern France. He has spent
several winters at Phoenix and at Nice, France. A fine new
building for the Florence Crittendon Home was building.- It
is being built almost entirely by subscription. I gave my mite
for this worthy object. It is one of the homes for fallen
women. The next thing to call my attention is some Indian women
running along the street carrying the ollas on their heads
filled with water. I wondered if the Indian would feel as
much the loss of home and friends as we, if they should be
taken to live in the white man's home. No doubt they would.
No camp-fire to sit by and hear the warrior tell of his hunting
the deer and bear. No corn to pound for supper, no fish to
roast on the smoking coals.
The out door concerts were attractive to me. The band
out every afternoon, and hundreds of people in the parks. I
attended a Martha Washington party at Baptist church. The
characters were in costume. George Washington, LaFayette,
Martha Washington were the best fitted as to dress. It was

60
our luck to meet the Mexican Consul DeVaro in his home.
Of all the polite gentlemen of my time, he is the one.
Consul DeVaro is a Spaniard, master of Spanish, Eng
lish, German, Latin, French, Greek, and Indian languages.
I was very much interested in this man. He knew so much,
with no swelling of the head at all. Storey had fun with me,
as we departed from his palace, he took my arm down the steps
to the gate, for fear that I should fall. Storey kept his, face
straight till we got away, and then had a hearty laugh.
The drawn linen work by the Mexican women is very
beautiful and worth much money. It lays our Battenburg
laces and embroideries far in the back-ground.
While in Phoenix I listened to the great Bishop McCabe.
It was a sermon on missions and one of the finest I ever heard.
During this service, an old lady who sat at my right, took my
hand and said who is my neighbor. I told her my name and
where was my home. I was surprised when she told me that
she was blind, almost totally. She informed me, that she
would call on me the next day at 3 p. m. She was Mrs.
Adams, the wife of first Methodist missionary in Arizona, he
too being blind at this time. I wondered how she would
find the way. She knew the streets of Phoenix, like I knew
the rooms of my home. She drove and brought a lady with
her. Mrs. Adams informed me, that she and her aged hus
band had built the church at Prescott. That the plans of the
church and parsonage, they brought with them from New
York- state. Mrs. Adams did nothing but drive out and call
on the sick and the strangers in the city, or take some one
out for a ride, who had no horse.
There is a society in Phoenix known as the Illinois So
ciety. It consists of three hundred members. They own a
picniq ground, in the eastern part of the city. They held a

61
picnic on February 12, in honor of Lincoln's birthday. We
were invited. A fine dinner. The band 'was composed of fine
players, the boys from the Indian school. There were some
fine recitations, speeches, etc., etc. Professor Gowan of the
Indian school was one of the speakers, Ex-Governor Harnil-
ton, of Illinois, is president of the society. Professor Gowan
told of the grand prairie state, but speaking of the climate, said
that it was a cold place, but Arizona was all that Illinois
was and much more. Illinois has mines of lead and coal, but
Arizona has her beds of gold and silver. Professor Gowan
said there was only one objection to Phoenix, that the winters
were all right but the summers were hotter than h — •. A story is
' told of a man who left Phoenix for the hotter place, but when
he got there, he came back for his overcoat.
One day Storey met a man, whom he thought just from
the Chilkoot Pass, from his fur cap and coat, well he had
to take it off, the next morning he had on a straw hat I saw
many children on Februarys, 1898, dressed in thin white
dresses, with bare arms, carrying parasols, lo, the barefoot
and bearheaded Indians, walking about over the town.
One afternoon we had been out calling, on coming home
we saw two squaws, with ollas to sell, one of the squaws
had a pappoose strapped to her back. Storey had seen the
same two the day before, they were making money by showing
the pappoose, at five cents a sight. I asked them if I took two
ollas and paid them ten cents, would they let me the pappoose.
They said, "yah, ym." After I had paid them and took the
ollas, they refused to let me see the pappoose. I was a little
riled. Just then a young man came along with a kodak, and
tried to take their pictures. The Indians don't like kodaks,
they dislike to have their pictures taken. Some of them think
the kodak, a gun, and they will run as fast as they can. One

62
day, I was on the street, and had stopped at the candy stall,
which was kept by a gentleman, who lived in part of the
same house that we did. There was standing by the tallest
Indian I had met. This Indian's name was Big Crow. His
hair had never been cut, so I was told. It was very heavy,
very black and below his knees. I got the gentleman who kept
the candy stand to ask him if he would let me have a lock of
his hair for ten cents. He said no. White woman no business
with his hair, that not right. I then made up my mind I was
asking considerable and bent my steps onward into the park
where stood a fine Tally Ho. The band, was playing sweet
music. The Tally Ho is a high-seated open buggy, holding six
or eight persons, beside the driver. It is drawn by four or six
fine horses, that dance to the music that accompanies it. It
is some kind of horn, that blows, when you start and when
you stop, then at intervals as you ride about. The drives are
elegant at Phoenix, and the horses very fine. The carriages
are very stylish, the ladies better dressed than their eastern
sisters. I saw hats in the millinery stores, many of them
priced at twenty-five dollars. There are many curious things
for sale. The most beautiful drawn work by the Mexican
women. The blankets made by the Apache Indians, some of
them are worth fifty dollars apiece, then the little trinkets,
opals, onyx, ostrich eggs, orangewood, ironwood, and numer
ous things. The famous umbrella tree and pepper tree are
the most important shade trees. The cowboy is one of the
great features of the place. Storey was down town one day, a
funeral procession was passing, a street sprinkler came along.
The team on the sprinkler was large and strong and the horses
became frightened and started to run, the man on the sprink
ler could not manage them, when he bore down on the sprink-

63
ler, with his feet the sprinkler threw the water. The horses
were running into the procession, when a cowboy standing
by his horse, took in the situation. He mounted at once, run
his Mustang alongside the frightened horse, caught the horse
by the nose with his hand, stuck his fingers into the horse's nos
trils, thus choking off his wind, stopping the runaways.
I visited the capital grounds, these grounds are set with
trees, plants, everything in readiness for the buildings.
We visited Orangewood a few miles north of Phoenix.
Saw almond trees white with bloom. And many oranges on
the trees. This was one of the most beautiful drives from
the city. "A story of the mines," was told us in Phoenix, by
different ones who had heard the man lecture, who was shut
in the mine. The story is a true one and is as follows :
It was out in the Big Bug district. The mines were pay
ing well, when one of their best mines were deemed unsafe.
For several mornings, the men on entering the mine heard low
grumbling sounds. They seemed like the sound of an earth
quake in the distance. They could not tell from whence these
noises came. Some thought a wild animal had gone down the
shaft. No that could not be. Others said they feared volcanic
combustion and thought the mine unsafe. The boss decided
to shut down the mine until they found out what the matter
Was. They sent to Denver for a mining expert to ascertain the
difficulty. The expert from Denver was offered one thousand
dollars to test the mine as it was one of the richest^in lead.
The man came from Denver. He was told the condition of the
mine. He laughed at their fears. Took his dinner, several
candles, matches, and went into the mine, he also took his
pick to pass time with. He went into the mine at 8 a. m.
The miners went to another mine near by. They were not

64
down the shaft, when a tremendous explosion occurred. They
ran to the mouth of the shaft where the man had gone down.
To their horror and amazement the mouth of the shaft was
closed,, the mine being shut in from the outer world with their
friend Thompson buried alive or killed they knew not what.
They rushed to the different shafts. All the miners were gath
ered together and decided to find the man if possible. There
was an air-hole on another side of the mine, where they de
cided to dig, two hundred men began at once. This place
where they begun digging was where they had thought to open
a new shaft. These men were not digging for gold, they
were digging for life. They dug all day, all night, put on as
many fast diggers as possible, they blasted rock, never inform
ing the man's family at Denver, what happened. On the fifth
they got a hole drilled through to where they thought was
the main room of the mine, but whether the man was there,
or in some other part of the mine, or killed by falling debris,
remained to them a mystery. They climbed to the hole they
had made and cried halloo. Then listening intently for some
minutes scarcely expecting to hear anything. When they heard
i^int sounds of a pick down deep in the mine. They took
courage and worked on harder than before. On the seventh
day they could not hear the faint pick, they were afraid he
had smothered, but soon again they heard the pick. They
cried halloo, and halloo was returned. They then cried
dig. We are digging you out. On the eighth day they called
to him.. Are you alive? Can you hold out a little longer?
They let down a candle, matches, water. Man cried out all
right. They let down a large pail, or ore bucket. The bucket
contained a note telling him to get iiito it and they would draw
him out. The men wept with him for joy. He was kept for
several days in a partially darkened room, allowed only a

65
small amount of food at a time. He was thin and pale, having
lost fifty-six pounds in weight.
A purse of two thousand dollars was made up for this
man at Phoenix and one thousand at Prescott. He lectured
at both places. His wife came from Denver and he obtained
enough money to live in fine style. A drive to Scotdale, a
little valley near the head of the canal. The Verde river comes
from the mountains, and empties into Salt river. The amount
of water power for irrigation purposes, for southern Arizona
is mainly derived from the snowfall of northern Arizona. The
water supply is limited in my estimation. The Salt river alone
amounts to nothing without the Verde, which is only fed
by rain and snow from the mountains.
Scotdale has a fine climate. The village consists mostly
of tents. Oranges ripe on trees in February. Almond trees
white with bloom. We ' spent a pleasant day, took dinner
with Chaplain Scott the owner of the village. He had es
tablished a health resort on his farm. The tents were inhabited
by people from distant homes in different parts of the east.
Chaplain Scott was in charge of the first Baptist mission in
Arizona. He is now in charge of the Prescott church. They
tried very hard to have us locate at Scotdale. This place
seemed to be a great resort for those who had weak lungs.
I did not care to locate out there. We met a man and his
wife, Alex Hepperly by name. Their home was Ellsworth,
Kansas. Mrs. Hepperly was a Miss Mix from Toulon, Illi
nois. I was surprised enough to become a friend to one who had
been brought only ten miles from me. We visited the os
trich farm together in company with Mrs. Adams. These
ostriches were not such a sight for me as for some people,
as I had seen them in a body at the World's Fair, and on a
farm in California. Their habits are rather peculiar. They

66
are very strong. They run as fast as a horse. They are very-
awkward and seem to be the most silly and indifferent creature
one ever sees. The head is very small. The egg weighs
about three pounds or is equal to two dozen hen's eggs. The
young, when hatched are about the size of common chickens
and are able to follow the old ones anywhere. Sometimes-
eggs are left covered with sand and hatched by the rays of the
sun, in other cases the male does his share of the sitting.
The eggshell is very thick and tough. They are used by na
tives of Africa as drinking cups. The stroke of the ostrich.
with its feet is powerful. It can instantly knock a man down.-
There was a man killed at the farm, at Phoenix only a few
months before we were there. The long' white plumes are
very elegant, some in beautiful brown, some jet black; as we
were returning to Phoenix from the ostrich farm, we were
passing a small depot. There stood a goat on the platform.-
A dog started after it, the goat ran after the dog. The goat
ran off the platform by running down the steps, the dog got
past where the steps were, the goat thought to go on after the
dog. The platform was very high, higher than the goat
thought, off he went head first and broke his neck.
We took many walks and rides in and around the city^
and I was getting very tired of the heat and dust. I could not
think of staying in the house in the afternoon. The heat was
unbearable and I finally coaxed Storey to go on north, on our
homeward journey. My cousin, M'r. Tom Sanders lived at
Hillside, but our first stop was at Congress Station. I was
anxious to see a real gold mine, see the men at work in roast
ing, smelting and refining gold. We took tea with a friend,
Mrs. J. F. Elwell, a dear little Baptist woman in south part
of Phoenix. We had an elegant supper and she accompanied
us to the train. It was a night train, that we had to take as

67
usual, being 9 :30 when we left Phoenix. This was March 8^
1898. It was 12 o'clock when we arrived at Congress Station.
We found a hotel near by. This was nearly the only house
in the place, c The landlord gave us a nice clean room and a
good bed and in the morning the gold fever was rising. I
ate a good breakfast, knowing that would help me for the
day. We informed the landlord, that he should drive us out
to Congress Mines, about three miles distant to the north
west. We decided to spend the day at the mines and that
they should come for us before supper. It was a fine drive, as
we passed along we saw a mine here, and there. One that at
tracted my attention was the "Lost Mine" so named because
very rich ore being found here led men to put in machinery,
sink a shaft, when all at once the rock became perfectly value
less. Not a cent in it. Men lost thousands of dollars in it.
Mines like this are known as spotted mines, they promise
well, but do not "pan out," as the saying is. I can hardly de
scribe the great "Congress Mines." Shaft No. i was thirteen
hundred feet deep; No. 2 was seventeen hundred feet deep.
Storey went down to first landing in shaft No. 2 to a dis
tance of five hundred feet. I refused to go. It seemed there
was no danger. I saw two hundred men come out of the
shaft on the trolley car, eat their dinner and go back in the
dungeon, with their candles and tools. One miner was honest
enough to tell me, that I was right, that there was danger and
that "fools would venture where angels dare to tread." That
only a month before a man and his wife, who were visiting
the mines, were both killed by the trolley car jumping the
track, a thing not often happening, but liable to at any time.
They were thrown from the car and crushed between the
car and the walls of the mine. Their home was in Pennsyl
vania. I always try to keep out of danger. The machinery

68
at the mines for pounding, roasting and refining the gold is
wonderful. Plenty of hard work to it all. There is a fascina
tion about the work, which is a great help to weary worker.
The engines and tattering rams were powerful; and the noise
they made. Not the loudest word could be heard. The red
hot fires for the roasting of the ore, then the great vats filled
to the brim with poison fluid, with which to cleanse the gold
by what is known as the "Sinide Process." The best ore is
prepared in this way no need to be sent away to the smelters.
There is no room at the mines for smelters. The poorest ore is
sent to either San-Antonio, Texas, or San Diego, California,
or Denver, where are great smelters to finish the work begun
by the miner. Many of the miners are foreigners, some Mex
icans. It requires almost a fortune to operate a "Gold Mine."
One single machine costing four thousand dollars. The min
ers wages are three dollars per day.
If I should attempt to describe the work in the "Sinide
Process" alone, I should have to employ a chemist for weeks.
The men who work at these places are experts in thg busi
ness even the Assayer must know his business so well, that
he can tell what a single grain of gold is worth. I shall never
forget my day at the mines, clambering, walking, talking.
How those miners eyed me. Some of them would venture
to give me a piece of ore out of the specimen box. Some
would tell me to help myself to what I wanted. I was not at
all bashful. I had Storey's pockets -filled with the precious
ores until he cried out, that he could stand it no longer. I
could scarcely walk a step, but he dragged me on until we
reached a mining store. , In front of the store was a wide
porch, to shade one's eyes from the glare of the stin. On
this porch were benches for the benefit of loungers or those
waiting for the stage. I never took to a bench except a wash-

69
bench, but I was glad to take to one there. It was near 5 p. m.,
and while we were there waiting for the stage, we took in the
sights, of this great mining town. We felt quite secure, but
hearing that a woman was robbed of two thousand dollars, at the
mines only a few' days before. When we arrived at the hotel
we were tired, hungry and dirty. We intended to go on at
II :30 p. m., to Hillside. We ate a big supper, as we had only
a lunch for dinner. We only paid one dollar per meal and the
same for a bed as if we had taken it at 6 p.' m., instead of 12
p. m. We decided to rest in a cozy little parlor until train
time rather than pay for a bed for all night. The thought of
sitting up brought to memory many episodes of my courting
days. When I was accompanied to a party by my friend,
whom I shall call Frank. He happened to wear his father's
coat in stead of his own, and at the party some other fellow
wore off the old gentleman's coat, what a time to get the
coat back. I well remember the old gentleman's wrath. "Now
you have got to git that coat, for I'm bound to have my coat,"
said Uncle John. "I'll never let vou wear a garment of mine
again, had it been my old breeches you changed, I should not
care a straw, but that splinter new overcoat. It makes my
hair rise on my head. Take a horse and go right along and
get that coat." He got his coat, some twenty years ago, has
married Frank's mother-in-law since that and is still a happy
man. I think I shall go and see him one of these days. Storey
was taking a nap on the sofa, while I was thus musing. I ex
amined the paintings and books, fancy work, etc. I got our
things ready. It seemed the train would never come, and the
question in my mind was, what would our reception be in the
next stopping place. It was onb^ fifty miles farther north, and
we would soon arrive there. We had written my second
cousin's husband when we would arrive there, but whether

he would be there I was not able to say. I knew the place was
small and I wondered if there was a hotel there. The train
stopped. Off we got. No one left the train but us. Our two
huge trunks were put off. There was no depot or ticket-
office. Our trunks lay on the platform. There was no one to
meet us. The only person on the platform was an old man
with white hair, and wrinkled face, who carried a lantern. I
hated to see that train go on. I then asked the old man to
wait a few minutes. I inquired if he knew Mr. Sanders. He
did. He was the postmaster of the place. He seemed to be
master of everything else from appearance. He met the train
to get the mail. He told us that Mr. Sanders had been to
meet the train on the evening before and he thought they were
coming again. I asked for a hotel. There was none. I then
asked where there was a private residence. There was none.
He then informed us that no one lived there but him, even his
wife was not at home. He then said if Mr. Sanders does not
come for you, that we could stay*with him till morning, that
he had a bed that was at our disposal, that he could sleep upon
a couch, but if we could put up with such acommodations, that
we were very welcome. I nudged Storey. I thought accommo
dation a rare thing and made up my mind to make the best of
it, if there was any best to it. He showed us the room and
bed. The house was a board shanty. He had a kitchen, a
dining room and the little room. The little room was just
large enough for a small bed, room at foot for a washstand,
by side of bed was just room to walk, a very small table. He
had a small lamp, on the table a box of matches, a small clock,
a comb. I examined the bed. It was what I call a one-hoss
bed, being entirely too narrow for two, and besides I never
would get into ^ bed under sich circumstances, as I am very
particular about my sleeping apartments. I opened my huge

71
telescope, took out a pair of fine wool blankets, a new com
fortable, a pillow, I made up the bed to the best advantage,
•coaxed Storey to get into it, while I seated myself on a low
camp-chair, wondering what was next in store for me. He
had told us Mr. Sanders lived three miles away that they were
liable to come for us, when they heard the train whistle for
Hillside. I made up my mind that I did not care whether they
came for us that night or not. Storey was asleep, I could not
sleep anywhere the rest of the night. Hillside had nothing
:in it but climate, and that one old man who kept a few chickens.
It is a better climate than either Prescott or Phoenix. I made
up my mind I did not want to eat nor sleep in that place.
Storey was sleeping soundly when a sharp halloo was heard.
I opened the door which led into the dining hall. By the faint
light of an old lantern I discovered the old man fast asleep.
I thought I knew the voice outside. I peeped out the window,
and saw by the light of the moon a two horse team, I opened
the door a little way and said who is there. The reply was,
"Ned Sanders." I told him all right, that we would be out
there as soon as pos'sible. After much effort, I succeeded in
getting Storey awake. He asked what I wanted, I told him
to jump up quick, to go to Sanders' ranch. He finally got
awakened and by this time the old man was up with his lantern
ready to lend a helping hand. I had the telescope packed by
the time Storey was dressed, they loaded our trunks and we
were soon oniourway to the Sanders' home. It was a beau
tiful moonlight night and for March 6, was fine weather. We
found another 'huge fire-place. Our trunks were unloaded.
We soon repaired to bed. I was beginning to think I had to
live without sleep, but as it was nearly morning, I only got a
:short nap. W-e stayed at the Sanders' ranch near two weeks.
;Mr. Sanders and ih'is :Son Ned were the house-keepers. So a

72
woman was welcomed. It was a quiet place, after my nerves
had been so taxed. I did most of the cooking while there,
as I had nothing else to do. An Indian family lived near.
They came to Mr. Sanders' well for water. They
belonged to the Walapai tribe. They counted for me
sometimes. Their hut was about a hundred yards away.
They daub their hair full of mud, or wet clay to make it all
stand up straight. They were frightful looking creatures.
They have one advantage, the mud kills the lice. After the
mud has been left in several days, then they wash it all out.
Hillside was the postoifice of my second cousin Robert Miller,
] although he lived twenty miles away. The name of his ranch
was Happy Camp.
When we wanted to go on to Skull Valley, Ned Sanders,
drove us there. It was distant twenty miles. We started at
2 p. m., arrived there at 4 :30 p. m. The scenery was beautiful
but varied. We passed through what is known as Hell's Half
Acre. Such a rough stony piece of ground I never saw. The
rocks are spotted. The colors were black, white, red. I
was afraid to ride over part of the road. While I was at
Hillside I went out prospecting for gold. There were four
of us. We took a pick and pan went to a creek, dug some
dirt and washed it. I got some fine gold dust, but wrapping
it in a paper, I lost it out on the way home from Arizona.
While Ave were out we visited two Indian huts. Hunted moss
agates and Indian arrows. On the way from Hillside to Skull.
Valley, I saw the famous road-runner Or rattlesnake killer.
The bird is very little larger than a quail. It runs along the
road ahead of a wagon for miles. It resembles the quail being
black and white. I found numerous song birds in Arizona.
At Skull Valley I saw cousin J. L. Miller, husking corn March
10. No rain in the winter, to spoil it

73
Arizona is the lazy man's country. I visited my cousin
Rolla Miller's grave, at Skull Valley. The headstone
is in sight of the depot. We decided, when we
started to Prescott to board a freight train, and go
up in day time, as much of the beautiful scenery
had been passed by us in the night. It was evident the train
men were not accustomed to having ladies on their trains as
they invited us seats in the top of the caboose, where we had
a grand view. They pointed out to us many places of inter
est on the route, and the engineering of a railroad in Arizona
is far ahead of anything we ever saw or heard of. It seemed
a winding around and over the mountains, gorges, valleys.
Words cannot explain the wonderful beauties which we be
held, with which God has seen fit to beautify this world of His.
The conductor took our tickets. He was puzzled. They were
fine tickets, we could get off the train anywhere and stay as long
as we pleased, get on anywhere. Our tickets were good for
nine months. Why our tickets puzzled the conductor, was,
we had left the train at Hillside, and had come by team to
Skull Valley, the ticket not being used. We explained to
him, as best we could, at last I told him, we cared nothing
about the ticket, we simply wanted to ride to Prescott on his
train, as it was an uphill business even on a train, there being
no other way to go except on foot. I never saw such scenery
in my life. The conductor showed us one place where it was
an impossibility to bed the road. There was no way to wind
the curve. It puzzled the expert Theft a young
Swede boy who was working in the bed rock with a
pick, said he knew how it could be done. The men all laughed
heartily. The expert said, "Young man, go on and tell me
how to do it" He then told them to run around the moun
tain and then cross the track they had made and there it was.

74
Said he had it all planned in his mind. The expert said "His
idea is correct." It was done. The boy got $i,ooo for his
idea. We arrived at Prescott at 6 p. m. We remained at Pres
cott three weeks. Storey had taken a severe cold and was
threatened with mountain fever. The last night we were in
Prescott we remained at a hotel near the depot. Storey was
almost too sick to start home. But fearing he might get worse,
I thought it wise to start. We had intended to stop off at Kan
sas City, a few- days as I had some distant relatives there
whom I had not met for years, but Storey was sick the whole
route home. He refused to eat, poor man, he could not sleep.
His first meal after we left Prescott was at Kansas City. We
were fast approaching home and friends. We arrived home
April 6, after an absence of four months. While away from
home I learned a great deal about mines, mining, and found
out that no mining district on the American Continent offers
today more genuine opportunities for investment in mining
than Yavapai county, Arizona. Its mountains are rich in
gold, silver, copper, onyx, lead and wood. Convenience to
other states or territories by rail is unsiirpassed. ' Its developed
mines of gold and, copper are the richest in the world, and
gives employment to thousands of men. The climate is won
derfully dry and the temperature delightful. When Horace
Greely told the young man to go west, he meant for him to
go to Yavapai county. Since 1892, three tributary railroads
have been constructed. One is from Jerome Junction to Je
rome, a distance of twenty-six miles to where is located the
machinery of the United Verde Copper Company, the mine
is at Jerome. The richest vein in the world. Yavapai county
is gridironed by four principal ranges of mountains, extend
ing north and south, and by several smaller ranges. The
mountains are, the Sierra Prietra, the Verde, of which the

/o

Black Hills are an extension, the Bradshaws and Silver Moun
tains and the Santa Maria. The most important are Agua
Fria, Date creek. Weaver and Kendrick. Some of the peaks
rise, loooo feet but the average is 5000 above the sea level.
The drainage of the whole region is toward the Gila and Colo
rado rivers. Average rainfall 16.5 inches. The valleys are
watered. This is a booh to cattle men. The area of Yavapai
county is 8214 square miles. It is nearly 1000 square miles
larger than the state of New Jersey. Population 32,000. Of
this population about 5000 possess the wealth which amounts
to many millions annually. To treat the ores from the mines
thirty-two stamp mills with four hundred stamps each work
day and night. It is a noteworthy fact that in no mine in this
county, in which a depth of three hundred feet, has been
reached, has the result failed of being a paying mine. This
has been the case With the following mines. United Verde,
Congress, Crown King, Plillside, Little Jessie, Jersey Lily and
McCabe all of National fame, only the Verde, Congress,
Crown King are below seven hundred feet.
Much of this county has never been mined. In some
places a few pans of earth have been saved. Many places no
machinery has been put in. I secured my knowledge of mines
in part from Professor J. F. Blandy, secretary of the Prescott
Mining Exchange. He has a fine office in Prescott. You can
see ore from any mines. He gave me a fine lot of speci
mens. I have some that will assay $1500 to a ton. Names
of mines, Bradshaw Mountains, Star, Old Reliable, Del Pasco,
War Eagle, Conger Mohawk, Black Warrior, Silver Prince
and Tiger. In the Hasayampa District, Joe Don, Sterling, Sun
Dance, Crook, Blair and Grub. All the hills and valleys from
Sacramento, California, down to Salt river are a network of
veins of ore and contain vast mineral wealth.

76

THE MOUNTAIN HUNTER.

When I turned my horse's head from Pikes Peak, I quite
regretted the abandonment of my mountain life, solitary as it
was, I more than once thought of taking the trail to the Salado
Valley, where I enjoyed such good sport. A citizen of the
world, I never found any difficulty in investing my resting
place, wherever it might be, with the attributes of home; al
though liable to an accusation of barbarism, I must confess
that the happiest moments of my life, I have spent in the
wilderness of the great west. With no friend near me more
faithful than my rifle, and no companion more sociable than
my horse, or the wolf, which often serenaded me. With a
supply of pine logs for my fire, and its cheerful blaze stream
ing far up into the sky, illuminating a valley far and near,
I would sit cross-legged enjoying the warmth, with pipe in
mouth, building my castles ir| the vapory smoke as it curled
upward. Scarcely did I ever wish to change such freedom
for all the luxuries of civilized life. A hunter's camp in the
Rock Mountains is a picture. The fire on a wintry night does
burn so bright, and the grizzly bear, ferocious monster, with
his great strength to take him' through the thicket.
On one of the streams flowing from the Black Hills, a
companion and I were setting traps, in passing through a
cherry thicket, we espied a large grizzly, quietly turning up
the turf with his nose, searching, for pignuts, I called my
companion, we crept cautiously to the skirt of the thicket,
both taking steady aim at the animal, discharging our rifles at
the same instant, both balls taking effect, but not making a
mortal wound. The bear gave a groan of agony, jumped with
all four legs from the ground, charged at once upon his ene-

77
mies. He bolted through the thicket after us close on our
heels. About a hundred yards from this thicket was a high
bluff. I shouted to my companion that this bluff was our only
chance. When Glass was nearly to the bluff,tripped over a stone and
fell,just as he rose the bear standing on his feet confronted him.
Heneverlosthis presence of mind, cried to me to closeup quickly
and discharged his pistol full into the body of the animal, at the
same moment the bear, with blood streaming from nose and
mouth, knocked the pistol from his hand, with one blow of his
paw, and fixing his claws deep into his flesh, rolled with him
on the ground. Glass knowing his desperate situation took his
6owie knife and stuck the bear several times in the belly;
I watched the desperate fight and losing my presence of
mind I made for camp and reported Glass dead. The captain
of our party went with another man. They found as they
thought the bear dead but the man still warm. They left him
and returning the next day found him not.
Several months after this a horseman was seen approach
ing them, his face was full of scars, to their surprise it was
Glass. He had eaten roasted bear's meat, and it was wonderful
how he had recovered.

78

LETTER FROM S. C. MILLER. AN ARIZONA PIONEER.

Miller's Valley, Feb. 21, 1900.
Dear Cousin: — Your favor of the i6th, inst, at hand con
tents noted. Glad indeed to hear from you. Well uncle is
eighty-one. We are all coming to that old age — you wanted
me to tell you something of my life, since I left Peoria county,
Illinois. I forget some but I can tell you all you will care to
hear. Brother Jacob and 1 left home April 4, 1859, for the
gold mines, at Pikes Peak, your father, and others started
with us. No doubt you remember your father's mules and
covered wagon. When we got out into Colorado, we found
out that there were more miners, than gold at the Peak. Your
father decided to go back to his home. We crossed the Missis
sippi river at Burlington, Iowa. Brother Jacob and I decided
to go on to California and see father, as he had been there for
several years. I was just sixteen years old. We went from
Burlington to Council Bluffs. These were the first large rivers,
I had ever seen, then on to the Platte river to Fort Carney.
Here we met thousands of gold hunters, who had been to
Pikes Peak. On their wagons was printed, "Pikes Peak or
Bust," and now they were going home, below was printed,
"Busted." We arrived in California, in the fall at the Big
Trees, Calaverous county. I never had seen such trees. This
was the twelfth of September, 1859, that I had reached Cali
fornia. In the spring of 1 860, went to Virginia City, Nevada.
In the spring of i86i, left Nevada for Arizona, my
father came from Oregon, where sister Catherine Bar-
net lived and accompanied us. We reached the Saij
Francisco Mountains in Arizona. There we stopped and
hunted, killed plenty of deer, dried all we could, staid there

79
six or eight weeks. There were seven men of us in the Miller
Party, and nine in the Walker Party. The two parties joined
together at Grapevine Springs, California, May, 1861. From
here we went into New Mexico. Spent the winter of 1861,
and 1862 in New Mexico. Here I met Kit Karson, he was
acquainted with father, as my mother and his father were
own cousins, and my name being Samuel Carson Miller, a
namesake of his father, he took great interest in me, calling
me boy. I was not yet twenty years old, he wanted me to
enlist for six months at least, to serve United States. I was
in nine battles, was wounded once, got well and served out
my time, was discharged in May 1862. I then went with the
Miller- Walker party, into Colorado. In September 1862, we
started with thirty-six men into Arizona, through the moun
tains, of New Mexico, and in May, 1863, we arrived on the
Hasayampa river. In May, 1863, my brother and I first
struck gold on Lynx creek, seven nples from the Hasayampa
river. I was hunting deer and saw one, I was crawling along
to get a good shot, and saw following the deer, a pretty spotted
fawn, and saw slipping along behind them, a very large lynx.
I shot the lynx just in time to save the fawn, the lynx dropped
at the shot from my rifle, and the deer ran off. So I went up
to the lynx, and stooped to turn him over and he jumped
and caught me by the wrist, his teeth cutting sharply, and
his claws scratching. Had it not been for my buck-skin
clothes, he would have wounded me badly, but soon as I
could I shot him with my pistol three times in the head, before
he loosened his teeth from my arm. I then went into camp,
without any meat, except the lynx. Brother said he would go
and kill some meat, as we had none in camp, and at times
we got pretty hungry. He said you stay in and doctor your
arm, which I did, but the day was long, and I was alone, I

80
was tired of sitting around, and seeing a nice gravel bank
on the edge of the creek which still holds its name, of Lynx
creek I took a pan, and got a pan of gravel and washed it, and
got four dollars and eighty-five cents. When brother came to
camp, in the evening, I had panned out seventeen dollars, with
a crippled arm. ' There was a little excitement. We notified
the balance of the party who were some ten miles away. We
all located and staked claims and named the place Lynx creek,
after my fight with the lynx. We took out over six thousand
dollars, over our yearly expenses. During the year 1863,
I located the ranch at Miller Valley, known as Miller Ranch
one mile from Prescott now, but then no white men, but
our party had visited this section of country, but there were
plenty of redskins, as we soon found out. I have lived here, as a
home here ever since, have farmed the valley, and run freight
teams and fought the Indians, when I had too. At one time
I was attacked between i|iy ranch and Lynx creek, my mule
was taken from me, by rne being shot from his back, through
the left leg. There were three of us, who kept firing, and
retreating, until I reached a log cabin on Lynx creek, that
we had built long before, I got into the old cabin and fired
through the cracks, and the Indians left, I mean those who
could leave. We had killed thirteen. The next trouble I had
with them was here on the ranch, where you visited me two
years ago. The Indians had been shooting from the rocks,
at me sometimes at' the house. Every time one would get
sight of me, he would shoot so I thought to be ready for them,
for when night came, there was no telling what the villians
would attempt. So I took my mule into the house, and saddled
it well, fastened securely all I intended tq take with me, I
intended to leave for Lynx creek, where my brother and some
other white men were. The Indians came before I got started,

81
set fire to my house, I got on my mule, and lifted the door
latch, and rode out putting the spurs into the flanks of my
beast, shooting with both hands, as I rode swiftly away. It
was near nine miles to our house on Lynx creek, the nearest
place of a person living, and when I got there the boys were
all asleep. I tied my mule, that was completely run down,
spread down my blanket and went to sleep. The next morn
ing one of the boys, said, "Sam you must have been in an
Indian fight." I said, "yes" and told them my trouble, and
they pulled thirteen arrows from my coat, which was tied
behind my saddle. I have been in very many Indian fights.
I was captain of a company fbr four years here, organized to
keep' them off white settlers.
My brother and I ran freight teams from 1865 until the
present time, from Los Angles, California, to Wickenberg, Ari
zona. At times we had twenty-two teams, twelve mules to a
team, with two wagons to each team. We loaded from sixteen to
twenty-five thousand pounds to a team. We received from
fifteen to twenty-five cents per pound freight, for a distance
of six hundred and forty miles. I contracted with the gov
ernment, doing all their freighting, transporting soldiers, from
one place to another, sometimes taking them into New Mexico.
I moved one regiment at a time. At ofie time my train of
teams was attacked by Indians. They followed us, kept up
the fighting for three days. We kept them from our teams
by care and hard work. At last the chief of the tribe, called
to my men, he wanted to make a treaty, and said he would meet
the little captain, (that was Sam Miller) out on a nice level
grassy place, about three hundred yards from the wagons.
So we held a council talk and we concluded that I should meet
him. We were to have no guns or bows and arrows. When
I went out to him, he carried his bow and arrow with him.

82
I spoke to him and, said, "Chief you did not leave your bow
and arrow." He said, "If you don't do as J want you -too,
I will kill you." I had kept two pistols in my belt, under my
buck-skin coat. I drew my pistol and shot, and broke his
neck, one of his sons jumped out of the grass from a hiding
place, shot at me, I then shot him, in the head, and killed
him. Then another came out of the grass. I shot him in the
thigh, he screamed. The Indians then came on a charge, shoot
ing at me, as I ran for the teams. I was between two fires,
my men shooting at the Indians and the Indians after me.
The wife of our judge here at Prescott was in the whole fight.
The governor's wife was with the same family, they were on
the route from California, her parents were also with us, my
brother and myself, the refnainder of our party were my team
sters, cook and stage driver. We had a covered rig along, so
if there were ladies along they could be better cared for.
My sister Hetty ; her htisband ; Wm. Nickason and his .son
Leslie; Uncle Henry's son Charley; brother Jacob's three chil
dren; they all came from California, with me and
brother Jacob and my teams. They left Illinois just
in time to meet the teams. Do you not remember
when you were in California in 1876, I wrote you
if you wished to come on to Arizona it should cost you noth
ing? The capital of Arizona, was first established at Prescott,
then I moved the books, records, and all they wanted taken,
with my teams to Tuscon. The capital was changed again
to Prescott, then I hauled it on to Phoenix, making three times
I helped the seat of government to move. I was a member of
the Fourteenth Legislature of Arizona.
Have buried my father here at Prescott in 1877; my
brother Jacob in the same cemetery in 1899; Sister Catherine
Barnett lies in Oregon; Tom my youngest brother at Phoenix,

83
Arizona; Sister Sally Ann Irwin at Head of Elms, Texas;
mother and Hetty at Princeville, Illinois; Sister Miary at Chi
cago. Only three left of a large family, Logan at DeWitt,
Neibraska, Cloe Nickason at Beatrice, Nebraska.
When I was twenty years old, I could outride, outrun,
outshoot any man I ever saw. While I was in New Mexico,
I was employed by the government to carry mail. My .route
was from Santa Fe to the mining country, distance about two
hundred miles. I made the trip once in two weeks on my
mule, which was an extra good one. He could scent an In
dian a long way off. He would snort, look about, start as if
to run, at the slightest indication of Indians. My mail route
lay through savage Indian country. I had started from the
mining camps to Santa Fe. I had gone over the greater part
of my journey, and was in good spirits. The miners had' been
very successful, and wanted me to take near three hundred
dollars, for them, to the fort, at Santa Fe. I put the gold into
the saddle bags, and fastened them to the saddle. It was near
three o'clock in the afternoon, I passed a stream of water, after
I had crossed it I decided to get off and get a drink. There
was only a path or trail, the grass was near knee high. I dis
mounted holding my mule by the bridle, when the mule gave a
sudden jerk, throwing, me to the ground, the bridle was
wrenched from my hand, the mule galloping away at full
speed, but fortunately for me he went in the direction of Santa
Fe. Santa Fe was, as near as I could tell about sixty miles
away. I knew what was the matter with the mule. He
scented Indians. They might be some distance and never
find me out, but then they might be only a few yards away.
They Were likely to be on foot, I did not hunt Indians, but
started as fast as I could run after the mule, not that I
thought to catch him, but that was the way home. My coat,

84
my rifle, a Winchester, that I could kill an Indian with, at a
distance of a hundred yards, was on that mule. I run as
long as I thought I dared. There was one thing sure, the
mule knew the way to Santa Fe, I did too, I too was sure that
no one could catch the mule, but I feared that straggling
Indians would see the gun on the mule and would shoot him.
I had gone about two miles when I heard yells of the redskins
on my track. I looked, they were not in sight. I then looked in
every direction, wondering if I had better leave the trail. To
the east I saw two Indians coming toward me on horseback.
I dropped in the grass, I was quite sure they had not seen me.
As soon as they were near enough I shot one in the head he
fell from the horse. I shot the other Indian, also his horse.
I mounted the other horse. He was well blanketed. I wasted
no time here. Took a fine scalping knife from the Indian's
belt. I don't think from the time of my first shot, t^iat it
had been over fifteen minutes. I found the horse a great help.
I put my spurs into his side, rode as fast as possible. I felt that
I was liable to be out all night, and I was quite anxious to see
that infernal mule. I did not see, nor hear anything more of
the band of Indians, that I thought were following me. I
made good time. The horse was a Mexican mustang, I did
not care how soon he died, if he only held out till I reached the
fort. I kept on the lookout for that mule, thought after he
was well nigh run down, he might stop to eat. Dark had
reached me, but beautiful moonlight About thirty yards off
I saw something, as I approached closer I saw it was the mule.
I rode slowly, knowing if I made the least noise, he would
start. I leveled my revolver, shot three times fearing I might
miss him. He fell. This was one of the meanest things I
ever did in all my life. I never hated to do anything so badly.
There was on the mule, my gun, coat, the mail bags, containing

85
the money. I got them all, took saddle and bridle from the
mule. The bridle cost me twenty dollars. I arrived at Santa
Fe at 2 o'clock in the morning. Slept the rest of the night.
Was rea.dy for breakfast next morning. The horse died the
next day.

HOW I ESCAPED THE APACHES.

After spending Christmas at cousin Sam's, and hearing
the thrilling Indian tales, with the Apache and Comache In-
dians, I almost forgot there was a time of peace, but still at
times, when crazed with drink they commit terrible deeds.
We had some fine weather after Christmas, with a slight skip
of snow on the ground. Cousin J. L. Miller from Skull Valley
had come to take dinner with me, and told many hair-breadth
escapes from the Apaches; how he had bought two hundred
Winchester rifles at San Francisco and brought them to Pres
cott on his mule train, for the white settlers to protect them
selves from the Indians with. These guns cost forty dollars
apiece, they were thirty at San Francisco, by taking the lot.
Many of the guns were ordered by settlers before they were
brought. My cousin brought provisions for the people at the
time. Flour at that time was twenty dollars a barrel ; beans,
five dollars' per bushel ; bacon only one dollar per pound ; butter,
eggs and milk were only thought of. Dried fruit from
fifty cents to one dollar per pound. Food was scarcer
than money. A pair of boots brought fifteen dol
lars; a buck-skin suit, twenty-five dollars. The prices all
seemed like those at Klondyke. It was the last day of Decem
ber, and we were getting ready for Phoenix. It was no small
job for me to get the rocks and minerals ready for our pockets

86
were loaded down with the precious rehcs. Storey had de
clared that I should not put another specimen in his pocket, as
he was then weighed to the earth with them. I decided to
put them into a box.
I often think if I were at Kimberly, I would pick up such
diamonds as no Boer ever saw. We had eaten an early supper,
and went to bed early, thinking on the next day to have some
cousins .to dine with me. Storey was soon asleep as usual,
I took a short nap and then it seemed difficult for me to slumber
again. I felt as if something might happen, I did not know
what. My thoughts wandered home. I wondered if all was
well there, as we had received no letter for some days. I thought
of the fine dinner prepared for us, before our departure by
Judge R. Ml. Benjamin and wife. I then thought of our long
journey over the mountains, and the many miles from home,
that we were, when my chain of thought was broken by hideous
yells, and rapid firing of guns. I was crazed in excitement,
trying to awaken Storey, but all to no purpose, he only slept
sounder, if any change in him at all. I climbed from the bed
wondering what such intense excitement could mean. I was
quite sure the yells were those of the Apaches. I wondered of
what use were the soldiers at Fort Whipple. Our window did
not face the street, I peeped out, but could see nothing, but hear
the most hideous yells, I had ever heard. I got my purse, my
watch and Storey's pocketbook. I decided if they killed
Storey I should try hard to escape with the money, but I began
shaking him, as a terrier dog shakes a rat. I told him a band
of Indians were in front of the house, he began to rub his eyes.
The guns and yells were enough to awaken the dead. Storey
was somewhat alarmed, put on his trousers, as if he had been
told to do so, wondering what such a commotion meant. He
ran into the hall, calling to a Mr. Smith, who lived in the other

87
part of the house, and asked, what on earth does this all mean.
Mr. and Mrs. Smith knew no more than we did. Still they
had never been disturbed by the Indians since they had lived in
Prescott. Mr. Smith went to the front door, revolver in his
hand, ready to shoot the first Indian, who should make fight,
while Storey listened to the clock strike twelve. This was the
New Year of 1898, and the party in the street Were welcoming
the New Year. Not an Apache Indian in the whole crowd. I
had often told Storey he orto learn to shoot, that a man who
could not shoot a gun, was a poor protection to his wife, es
pecially in that section of the country.

88

NEW MEXICO.

In October, 1896, Storey and I joined an excursion party
to the Pecos Valley, New Mexico. The traveling agent, C.
E. Benjamin, of the Pecos Valley Irrigation and Improvement
company was the leader of the party. We had heard of the
beauties of this valley through a friend, John Dodge, of Nor
mal. He had been to this valley, and was much attracted by
the fine climate, fine fruit, it being a true home for the apple
tree. We had seen the fine fruit at Illinois State Fair, at
Spfingfield, in 1895. The apples of this valley are perfect
An offer of ten dollars to any person finding a wormy apple.
It cannot be done. We met a number of other persons from
Springfield and Petersburg, who were members of our ex
cursion party. The object was to sell land. I thought it well
enough to go and see this land of Eden. We went by St.
Louis, and reached there in time to see the great display of
the Veiled Prophets, of which we hear so much. The sight
was fine. I had never seen anything like it. I was also at
tracted by the great steel bridge which spans the Mississippi
river. The union depot at St. Louis is the finest I have ever
been in, and the best arranged to accommodate the traveler
of any, where I have ever been. We left St. Louis at 10 p.m.,
oyer the Iron Mountain route until we reached Texarkana,
then we took the Southern Pacific through Texas. The Iron
Mountain route I believe is rightly named, for it was surely the
roughest railroad I had ever been on. The ones I had been
on were these : The Union Paicific, Central Pacific, Napa and
Calistoga, California Southern, Salt Lake, Central Pacific
branch, Illinois Central, Santa Fe main line, Kansas and Den
ver main line, Iowa Central, Chicago Burlington & Quincy,

89
Buda and Rushville branch. Rock Island and Pacific, Toledo,
Peoria & Western, Chicago & Northwestern, Lake Erie, Big
Four, Michigan Southern, Erie & Lehigh Valley, Chicago &
Alton. This Iron Mountain route was ahead of anything for
roughness, but the coaches were separate. On one coach we
read Whites, on another Blacks. There is much more distinc
tion between the whites and blacks in the south than in these
Northern States. These things in traveling called to mind
the day of slavery in the Southern States. I remember that
when my father was a boy he often went to negro sales. They
were perched upon a block and sold to the highest bidder, the
same as a horse at an auction. Those that were in prime of
life, capable of the most hard work, brought the most money.
Parents and children, husbands and wives, were thus separated
and often taken to differen states. I was not favorably im
pressed with what I saw of Arkansas, except Little Rock. Near
here I met the widow of Wm. Henry Haynes, a rebel general.
Mrs. Haynes was a southern lady of fine type. She owned exten
sive cotton mills at Little Rock. She was very clever, offering
if I would stop with her for a few days, she would drive me
about the city and to these great cotton mills free of all charge
for board or carriage hire, but we were billed for
Eddy, now Carlsbad, New Mexico, and Storey said
we must go on. I shall never take a man along
when I go on another tour, but I expect he will be
like Josiah Allen, will follow on. We saw many fields white
with cotton pods just bursting, with here and there a black
head bobbing about. Storey got out of the car one day to get
some cotton while the train was stopped for some cause, by
a large field of cotton. He came so near getting left he did not
attempt it again, but he got the cotton. Arkansas seems to
me as a general thing a country of not much consequence.

90
Low swamp lands and hogs so poor that it would take two
to make a meal. They looked as though they got nothing to
eat but a few hazelnuts and the inhabitants seemed to par
take of the same nature, in looks and surroundings. We
traversed the state of Texas from east to west. I like some of
Texas quite well, Dallas and Fort Worth are fine places. One
can form no idea from the vast expanse of land in Texas.
Western Texas is suitable only as a grazing section. No trees
of any size in western Texas. The climate I think healthful.
The only place I saw in the western part of the state where I
thought one could live, was at Big Springs. We crossed the
great staked plain, and we met no northerners, although they
are common in all northern portions of the state. The sage
brush, and mosquite bush are prevalent enough to show one
that part of Texas belongs to the desert regions of North
America. The cattle eat the leaves of the mosquite where they
cannot get grass.
It was good for us that our lunch basket was well filled,
as I did not see much show to get much on the way. At Pecos
city we changed cars for the delightful valley. This was a
one-horse railroad. They waited until passengers were ready
to go. Storey was well nigh tired out. We reached Eddy,
the name is now changed to Carlsbad, as some fine springs have
been discovered in the vicinity similar to those in Germany.
We found a fine hotel known as the Hagerman. It was one
of the finest hotels kept by a gentleman from Kansas City.
This hotel was owned by the company, and so was everything
else that amounted to anything. Mr. Eddy, the chief manager
of affairs being a Denver man, everything was up to date. We
had the choicest fruits of the season, the drinking water came
in pipes from the Black canyon three miles away. The climate
was perfectly delightful. There being no rainfall to speak of.

91
the climate is perfectly dry only where irrigated. The great
water dams for the irrigating are immense strucures and , I
think their water supply better and more liable to hold out than
at Phoenix, Arizona.
They have electric lights, an ice plant and I saw much bet
ter fruit prospects there, than at Phoenix. Such loads of ap
ples breaking down little trees ; such melons, onions, cabbages
and delightful peaches. It seems to me that at Phoenix the air
is so hot that the fruit is cooked on the trees. I would prefer to
cook my own fruit. The great Alfalfa fields of. Phoenix furnish
pasture for thousands of cattle. We spent some little time at
Eddy, took a trip on a beautiful afternoon to the great dam.
We rode on the flying Jenny. This car was a small engine
with seats for eight or ten persons, attached so they were
comfortably seated, and the thing run like lightning. I never
rode so fast. The great dam of the Pecos River was a wonder to
our eyes. A boy sat there fishing, he drew out his line every two
or three minutes with a nice speckled trout upon his hook. He
informed us that he lived near the dam and that he could catch
all the fish he wanted in half an hour. And such sunshine.
We rode over the country sometimes fifty miles a day. We
took dinner at the Chism ranch, and such a fruit orchard as I
saw there. The little apple trees were bending to the ground
with their loads of fruit. And such perfect apples, with not a
blemish of any kind. We found many people from the South
ern States settled in this part of New Mexico. The water sup
ply of the Pecos Valley is fed by unfailing springs.
This city of Carlsbad promises to be one of the great bath
ing resorts of the New World. Hot Springs being the most
famous of which I shall speak later. We were driven to Ros-
well, there we were obliged to stop over night in a Chinese
hotel, but run on the American plan. I rather dreaded it as

92
50on as I found out there was no other show. Roswell is situ
ated at the northern terminus of the Pecos Valley railroad. A
continuation of this road is now made through to Washburn
and intersects with the Denver Pacific. This continuation
makes a shorter route into New Mexico, by several hundred
miles, and will be a great advantage to stock shippers. At the
hotel at Roswell, I imagined I had bird's next soup for dinner,
and they were not done ; Storey said he hated to suck eggs, but
it looked as if he had to. They had fish too, but we were afraid
of them. They ^aid they were cat, but I thought they were
just as apt to be dog as cat, however I did not care to eat any.
There was a female Chinese there. She was dressed in silk.
Had on satin slippers; she was hobbling around on her little
¦ feet, scarcely large enough for a year old child. She had on a
loose pair of trousers which they call a foo, and a kind of
jacket, which they call a sham. I thought they might as well
call the whole thing a fool sham; that was nearer like being
rightly named. When they brought their bill of fare it was
printed in Chinese, with a few English words. The Chinese
characters looked like duck tracks. We asked how much
money for supper. He said a yen. Storey said he wanted one
of our hens, he really rather give him a rooster. When I
thought a little I remembered a yen is a dollar of our money.
A yen is made of copper with a square hole in the center. These
yens are often strung on a ribbon or string and worn around
the neck. The Jap who carries the most yens is the richest
man. The tea made by the Japs, or the Chinese is of the very
finest quality. They keep the best tea for home use.
We soon arrived at Eddy, ate a good supper, and next
day started for home. I wished that we had a balloon that
we might traverse Western Texas without the dust and in
convenience of the long trip across the plains.

98
Our homeward journey was quite pleasant and as we were
nearing St. Louis we were delayed by a freight train just ahead
of us being wrecked. We reached the great city an hour after
the Chicago & Alton train had left for home. Well I was not
going to be put out much, we would visit the great exposition
which was at its greatest height. I really thought our being
left was a blessing in disguise. We spent the day, and were
entertained by Sousa's fine band, the best in the United States.
We also saw Madame Carthcart's Dog Show. The dogs were
well trained and performed some very fine feats. One was a
funeral train. A .dog rescuing a child from a burning building
was the first scene. The dog was burned to death in the act
of rescuing the child. Two dogs came as pallbearers. One
dog dressed as a lady mourner. The dead dog was wheeled
away in a wagon for burial. The next scene was a fight, the
dogs were dressed in clothes, standing upright. It was Cor
bett and Fitzsimmons. Then came another dog dressed as
policeman who parted the fighters with his club. He wore the
color of the policman and brass buttons and the star. It was
a very interesting scene. I never was an admirer of dogs ex
cept when they were of fine breed, but I really would like to
peep at the kennels of George Vanderbilt in North Carolina,
and if I ever chance in that section I shall not fail to see them.
In seeing the dogs fight, I remembered in passing through
Texas, near Dallas, where I had seen a huge amphitheater which
had been erected for the great prize fight of Corbett and
Fitzimmons, but the governor of Texas was too wise a man to
allow such a fight, and forbade the fight within the borders of
Texas. Many people are like those who built the large building;
their works accomplished nothing. The new steel bridge is
one of the wonders in the west. The union depot is one of

94
the wdnders of St. Louis. The ladies there are large, robust,
well dressed and well informed women and Storey declared he
never saw so many pretty women.
I saw the finest apples I ever saw at the exposition, and I
think Missouri a great apple and peach country. When -vve
arrived home the house stood in the same place, where we had
left it, but the November -wincl was whistling through the trees
in the campus and we were glad we were home. But we re
member New Mexico as an ideal climate, fine fruit and vege
tables. Now that such fine things have been discovered there,
and possess great medical qualities, the name Eddy has been
changed to Carlsbad, after the .noted city of Europe, where
there are fine springs, and doubtless this city of Carlsbad, New
Mexico, situated in the Pecos Valley, will be one of the most
famous watering places in America. Hot Springs and Eureka
Springs stand among the first.

95

WORLD'S FAIR.
Information was given in the Agricultural Building by
cards and tags.
There were many private booths, the cost of some of these
was $25,000. Canned goods largely represented. Confectionery, soaps,
tobacco, and a large list of manufactured food products. Every
exhibit told its own story.
The Anthropological Building was in the southeastern
portion of the grounds. The early history of America was
made a specialty.
The section of Ethnology was interesting.
The American Indian was represented by native families
in their huts, living in the exact Way their forefathers lived be
fore being disturbed by the white men; the Indians cooked,
made trinkets which they sold to the visitor; there was a skin
tent with a family from the Eskimo village ; the birch bark wig
wam of the Penobscots with several families from Maine; a
mat house and bark of the Winnebagoes ; skin and bark houses
of the Chippawas ; a house of turf from Colorado with a band
of Apaches singing their war songs in front of it.
Hygiene and Sanitation were also well represented.
Insane hospitals were given a large share of attention.
The natural color of buildings is a murky white, but other
colors are produced by external washes. For the lower portions
of the wall the material was mixed with cement which makes it
hard. One hundred and twenty carloads of glass were used in
covering the roofs of the various structures. More than forty ca
loads were used for the Manufactures Building alone. They
were ornamented and planned without regard to cost.

96
There were immense pieces of sculpture throughout the
grounds. The Columbia Fountain was one of the beautiful
decorations. The great buildings w'ere thirteen in number.
The names they bore indicate their uses.
There were four entrances to the Administration Build
ing. The underside of the dome was filled with immense
paintings. At the top of the arches was a white molding;
resting on this molding were eight panels, and on each hung a
gilt slate. On each slate was some important record in the
world's progress as : "Gunpowder was first used by Europeans
in 1325." The sculptor of the Administration Building was
Karl Bitter, of New York.
The Agricultural Building was devoted to the interest of
the farmer, and dairy and contained an experiment station.
The World's Columbian Exposition began May i, 1893,
in South Chicago at Jackson Park and W^ashington Park. An
invitation was given to the world to take part in this exposition.
The plans for the buildings were made by the best archi
tects in America. The total cost of the buildings was $8,000,-
000. It will be impossible for me in this work to do anything
more than mention things I saw there, but as scarcely any one
saw the same things, I may be able to speak of somthing you
did not see, and I hardly think anyone could see all the great
things there displayed. I enjoyed the show very much, and
another thing I enjoyed was meeting my cousins, Mrs. Nellie
Rollins and Mrs. Jennie Skidmore, who had just arrived from
her home in Mexico City. I had not met them for twenty
years. The materials of the buildings were wood, iron, glass,
and what is called staff. Thirty thousand tons of staff was
consumed. It was invented in France, in 1876, and was first
used in the buildings of the Paris Exposition in 1878. It was

97
composed chiefly of powdered gypsum, the other constituents
being alumina, glycerine, and dextrine. These are mixed with
water, without heat and cast in molds.
The Art Building was one of the most attractive. No
wood was used in this building. The very panes of glass in
the windows were set in iron frames. In the United States
exhibit were one thousand and seventy-five paintings by Ameri
can artists. The French section occupied a fine position.
The Japanese showed us work on silk.
There were wonderful machines shown in the electrical
exhibit; telegraph and telephone; the statue of Franklin and
his key to the elements.
The Fisheries Building was one of interest. The flowers
all over the parks were very beautiful.
In the California exhibit was a pyramid of oranges. This
orange exhibit showed oranges from the finest navel to the
most common growth. In Machinery Hall there was a great
display of engines. The cotton and silk looms and ribbon
looms, machines for making hooks and eyes, machinery for
wooden ware, printing, decorative work on wood were inter
esting. The Manufacturers Building Was one of great interest to
me. Cape Colony had a large exhibit of mohair and ivory.
One ivory tusk seven and one-half feet long was worth thirteen
hundred dollars.
The Cingalese Pavilion was a beautiful one. The sup
ports of the little house were of ebony, which in the rough is
sold at twp hundred or three hundred dollars a ton.
One hundred men were employed for six months in Co
lombo, carving wood for these buildings.

98
In the Mines Building there was a statue of rock salt
representing Lot's wife. The Pennsylvania coal, iron and oil
exhibit was fine.
Michigan displayed her copper industry. New Mexico
had a miner's cabin made from minerals.
Montana a statue of solid silver. Mexican display was
mostly of saddlery.
The Woman's Building was one of the best, and all kinds
of articles made by women were seen. There was a model
kindergarten and a model kitchen. Queen Victoria was repre
sented by six water color drawings of her own. Princess
Christian, by two oil paintings; Princess Louise, by water color,
and Princess Beatrice, by an oil painting. The priceless court
laces of France, Spain and other countries were exhibited. The
library was filled with printed works by famous women. A
map of Italy made by an English woman in the time of Dante
was a curiosity. The sword of Queen Isabella with her por
trait and some of her jewels were among the displays.
Russian peasants dressed in costume were a unique fea
ture. Many beautiful articles of needlework made by country
women of Spain, cushions in gold and lace. Many ladies' so
cieties had beautiful exhibits. The sculpture work was done
by Miss Alice Rideout of San Francisco.
The Woman's Building was said to be the best of its kind
in the world.
The diamond exhibit from South Africa displayed forty
thousand diamonds in the rough. From Cape Colony there
was a collection of stuffed birds and animals.
In the Art Gallery, Corea had a large amount of fine pot
tery. The ladie^ of Denmark had a fine display of embroideries.

99
Eygpt had a large display of fancywork.
Germany was well represented. One thing was a salt
mine and the throne of Emperor William.
> England was represented from the art gallery to the live
stock shed.
Hawaii had a special feature of a volcano.
India was rich in wood and ivory carving.
Some of the things I shall not forget seeing at the fair,
were the large cheese, the wteight was six tons; the boat of
Grace Darling ; the first passenger coach of the United States ;
the carriage of Daniel Webster; the Viking ship; a very large
diamond exhibited by Tiffany & Co., of New York; Ferris
Wheel; a section of rosewood and mahogany logs; Vienna
Glass Works; the glass dress made for Eulala of Spain; the
great silver monument; a picture of "The Last Supper" in
silk embroidery ; the farm home, in Illinois Building, pictured
in grasses and grains; the Indian village and the Irish village.
I do not fancy these things so much as some. One sees so
much that he cannot remember anything well. Traveling is
much more profitable and instructive.

100

INSULATOR SHOE.

There's a pesky looking man,
Wears fine clothes and shoes of tan,
Calls the man out from his wife.
And says, I sell a thing to save your life.
He talks of this then of that.
Then off he takes his new straw hat.
He then attempts to scratch his head,
And probe it up as if it were lead.
Did you not hear at the election,
That we have tariff for protection ;
The lightning rod to save our lives.
Now this is new, please use your eyes.
If our beds were on glass stools.
We nevermore would be such fools,
And instead of ground, we walked on glass,
We would belong to a wiser class.
There is many a new invention,
I dare not even to you mention.
But I can not recommend to you,
A finer thing, than the insulator shoe.
The shoe is leather, the sole is glass.
Or else the thing would never pass.
The sole is woven and will keep,
And then the shoe is so very cheap.

101
The shoe is warranted, it grows not old
You buy two, one for your wife,
I'm quite sure she will never scold.
But keep so sweet through all your life.
One dollar apiece is the price,
They are fitted so even and nice.
Ready for any old fashioned boot.
And lightning never would strike your foot.
Now friend I'll tell you what I'll do.
If you will buy of me this insulator shoe.
If one dollar is too much then cut it in two.
I'm sure that bargain you will never rue.
Your feet will keep warm and dry as toast.
Such beautiful feet, ladies all boast.
You will never again have pain or gout.
And tomorrow I can take a new route.

102

NIAGARA.

Storey, Roy and I went on an excursion to Niagara, by
way, of the Big Four railroad, and our first stop was at In
dianapolis. We visited the state house and the old Harrison
home. We found the state house an interesting place to visit.
Many relics of the Rebellion, old shattered flags, and things
from early Indian wars. Relics from the battlefield of Tippe
canoe. At Cleveland we took Lake Shore and Michigan
Southern route. We viewed Ashtabula bridge where P. P.
Bliss and wife lost their lives in a railroad wreck. On our
way home we saw their graves in the distance. We saw the
great white ships on the lakes. I was much impressed with
Erie, Pennsylvania. It is rightly named, when called the
smoky city. And such an amount of lumber, I never saw be
fore as at Tonawanda, New York. At last we heard the roar
of the great falls at Niagara. One can but stand awe struck
and look and listen, and wonder in our hearts why God
should make this wonderful feature in his beautiful creation.
It is useless for me or any one to attempt to describe the
beauty and grandeur of Niagara. Go and see —
Words cannot tell its meaning.
Pictures cannot display its beauties.
Artists cannot give touch nor coloring.
Our first look was at the Great Horse Shoe Fall, and then
the American Fall. I crossed the foot-bridges to Three Sister
Islands, I crossed the new suspension bridge. A fine mist from
the falls fell over us smelling so pure and sweet, like new-
mown hay or crab-apple blooms. How I should like to view
the falls in winter, still it might be chilly there in winter.
The climate is delightful there in the month of August. The
wonderful Cantilever bridge with its fine passenger train, pre-

103
sents to the eye a view never to be forgotten. The Whirl
pool Rapids, what a foaming surging mass of pale green
water, white with foam. Only think of it, a man to attempt
to swim them, or Andrew Wallace ride his horse on ice
mountain, under the falls. Lo, the poor Indian haunts me
still selling her beadwares, to white squaw. I chanced to meet
a family of Niagara Indians. The falls is their home. The
great spirit is in the seething waters. In seeing these Indians,
I call to mind the Pequod nation, that captain Mason destroyed
in a day. .Of the Narragansetts, and other red men of early
time^, who are now almost extinct. The Maid of the Mist I did
not care to ride in. Prospect Point is a beautiful place, from
which to view the falls. I crossed the whirlpool bridge but
did not enter the cave of the winds. We drove into Canada,
after being overhauled by the custom officer, and visited the
Burning Spring, thus being in Queen Victoria's dominions.
This Burning Spring, we drank of the water then lighted the
remainder, and were delighted to see it burn. The water
contains a large amount of gas. W^e rode down the inclined
railway below the falls, and were at the landing of the Maid
of the Mist. Here we met the New York fire company, who
had come in on one of the nine excursions, that reached Niagara
the same day. They became very much interested in us as
we were from the prairie state. They gave me their cards.
They were a brave set of fellows. I admired them very much.
I spent three days at the falls and I shall never think of them
only as pleasant days, and interesting sights. Many beautiful
relics for sale. Much spar is obtained from the cave of the
winds, from which much beautiful jewelry is made, and is ex
posed for sale. Our homeward trip was by way of Columbus,
Ohio. Springfield, Ohio, is one of the favorite spots of earth
in my estimation. It is in a rich agricultural and fruit growing
section of country.

104

BILTMORE.

Biltmore, the country seat of George W. Vanderbilt near
Asheville, North Carolina, is reputed to be the most costly pri
vate estate in America. The house grounds comprise nine
thousand acres of lawn, farm and forest, with thirty miles of
magnificent roadways, rustic bridges, artificial lakes, and thou
sands of trees, plants and shrubs brought from all parts of the
world. The hunting reserve comprises eighty-seven acres or
more. The house stands on a plateau of a mountain peak.' It
overlooks the French, Broad and Swannaoa rivers, and com
mands a fine view of the mountains and valleys. There are
fifty peaks more than 5,000 feet high. The house is built of
stone and brick made on the estate; it is 300 by 192 feet, lawns,
tennis courts, conservatories, sunken gardens and other feat
ures. The house was begun in 1891 and was opened on
Christmas 1895. The public are permitted to drive through
the grounds.

105

WASHINGTON. D. C.

I shall only speak of the few things, as a description of
this place, its buildings, people, etc., would require a volume of
itself. First I shall mention some of the places of interest to the
tourist. Most of these are open daily or a portion of the day
except on Sundays and legal holidays. Capitol, Arlington
Cemetery, Arsenal, Agricultural Department, Army Medical
Museum, Botanical Garden, Corcoran Gallery, Dead Letter
Office, Fish Commission, Government Printing Office, Library
of Congress, Halls of the Ancients, Lincoln Museum, Marine
Barracks, Mount Vernon, National Museum, Navy Depart
ment, Navy Yard, Patent Office, Pension Bureau, Postoffice
Department, Smithsonian Institute, Soldiers' Home, State De
partment, War Department, Treasury, Washington Monu
ment, White House, Zoological Park, and the Carlyle House.
This house was erected in 1732. It was at one time head
quarters of General Braddock. In one room of this house
Washington received his commission in the army. Here a
council of war was held between General Braddock and five
governors together with Admiral Sepple, Horatio Gates and
Benjamin Franklin. This was in 1755. This mansion -yvas
built of stone brought from the Isle of Wight, as ballast, on
a fort erected by the early settlers to, protect themselves from
the Indians, with an underground passage, connecting with
the river. This historic mansion is entirely surrounded by the
Braddock house, the office of which was once used as a sub-
treasury of the United States. Visitors to Mount Vernon
can stop over at Alexandria, leaving train at Royal street sta-

106
tion, where they will be niet by guides who will conduct them
to the old mansion, which is two blocks from the depot.
Pennsylvania avenue is the central one ; it connects railroad
depots, Capitol, Treasury, White House, and State Depart
ment. Other public buildings are but a block or two from it.
The city is wonderful.
The house once occupied by Francis Scott Key, author of
The Star Spangled Banner, is in Georgetown, near the Acque-
duct bridge. Ford's Theater, in which the assassination of
President Lincoln occurred April 14, 1865. The building is
now used for public business, and contains nothing of interest.
Across the street is the house where Lincoln died, contains a
collection of Lincoln relics. The Congressional Cemetery
contains graves of many noted men. On Oak Hill is the grave
of John Howard Payjie, author of Home, Sweet Home.
Payne died while United States consul, at Tunis, and was
buried on a hill overlooking the ruins of Carthage. In 1882
his remains were brought home to America by William W.
Corcoran. The Government Printing Office is at North Capitol and
H streets. Here all the Daily Congressional Records are
printed. Department Reports. It is the largest printing-
office in the world. It takes two hours to -wfalk through it.
The Botanical Garden is a place of interest to the pupil. It
contains rare plants from all parts of the world. The travel
er's tree from Madagascar, the Hottentot poison tree from the
Cape of Good Hope, the Jesuit's Bark from South America,
and fine specimens from Sandwich Islands, Japan, Queens
land, Sumatra and scores of other distant lands afford abund
ant interest. North of this conservatory is the Bartholdi
Fountain.

107
The Army Medical Museum contains an immense col
lection of subjects illustrating various parts of the human body
as affected by wounds and disease.
The Halls of the Ancients originated with Franklin W.
Smith, the president of the National Galleries Company.
There are two Egyptian Halls; an Assyrian Throne
Room ; a Roman House, larger and more splendid than that at
Saratoga; a lecture hall with a painting 50 feet by 9 feet, Rome
in the time of Constantine, and a hall of the model of proposed
National Galleries of History and Art At the front of the hall
is a beautiful model of the temple of Denderah. Near this
are those of Greeks and Romans ; Byzantine and Moorish ; the
East Indian courts. Each court is surrounded by galleries to
receive ancient paintings. A model of the Parthenon for a
memorial temple of Presidents of the United States, and others
of the Thesian at Athens. One for a memorial temple of the
Sons of the Revolution, and another for the Daughters of the
Revolution. Lincoln Museum, the house in which he died contains the
Family Bible in which Lincoln wrote his name when a boy; log
from the old Lincoln home; stand made from the logs of the
house in which Lincoln lived in 1832; a rail split by him and
John Hanks, in 1830 with affidavit by Hanks; a discharge to
one of his men from the Black Hawk War, 1832, and thou
sands of other relics.
The paintings and bronze work, the sculptural work in
Congressional Library are indeed grand. The gallery in the
Reading Room shows statues of St. Paul and Robert Fulton.
, There were in the Library of Congress January i, 1897, 748,-
115 books and 245,000 pamphlets. The books are sent to the
Capitol by a tunnel connecting the two. The tunnel is brick,
in length 1,275 f^^t and 4 by 6 feet interior. Books sent on trays

108
make the trip in three minutes. The Representatives' Reading
Room is finished in dark oak and green silk, very rich and ef
fective. The walls beautifully tinted and decorated, the paint
ings in the east hall tell the story of "The Evolution of the
Book." The inscriptions on the ceiling from the poets are
so fitting for the places. Words, nor books, nor pencils, nor
pens can describe the grandeur to be realized in the Congres
sional Library. One to know what is there must visit it and
not be hurried.
The Capitol is distinguished for its commanding situa
tion, majestic proportions, dignity, grace and beauty of design,
and the adornments without and within. It overlooks the
Potomac and is a feature of the landscape for miles on every
side. The building faces the east, supposing the main growth of
the city in that direction, but the development has been toward
the west. The Peace Monument marks the entrance in the west
grounds. On the east front are three grand porticoes with
Corinthian columns, broad flights of marble steps lead up to
the porticoes from the esplanade on the east. The central
building is of Virginia sandstone, painted white; the exten
sions are Massachusetts marble. The coriier stone of the
main building was laid by President Washington, September
1 8, 1793. The crowning glory of the capitol building is the
dome. The fortunes of the American Indian furnish a theme
which we find constantly recurring throughout the decorations
of the Capitol. The marbles and bronzes of the rotunda
portico are suggestive of the first contact of the white race and
the red. There are eight oil paintings in the rotunda. They
are: The Landing of Columbus, October 12, 1492; Discovery
of thfe Mississippi by De Soto, 1541 ; The Baptism of Pocahon
tas; Jamestown, Viginia, 161 3; Embarkation of the Pilgrims
from Delft-Haven, July 21, 1620 and Declaration of Independ
ence, Philadelphia, July 4, 1776.

109
The old Representative Hall is now Statuary Hall and
statues of all our great men are there. I can but mention
these beautiful mottoes, beautiful buildings in this work, but I
may write another on the city itself.
The White House is on Pennsylvania avenue. It is very
becoming as the horhe of the President of the United States.
Two fine paintings which adorn the White House is that of
George Washington and Martha Washington. The dress of
Martha Washington was made in Paris. It was worn at the
Martha Washington Centennial Tea-party in Philadelphia, in
1876. Mrs. Tyler's and Polk's pictures by the Ladies' Ten
nessee Club, and Mrs. Hayes' by Woman's Christian Temper
ance Union in recognition of her dispensing with wine at the
State dinners. In this blue room, oval in shape, is decorated
in light blue and gold. The mantel clock hangs in the blue
room which was presented by Napoleon I to Lafayette and by
him to Washington.
In the family sitting room the walls and decorations are
in red. Here are portraits of many of the presidents.
Beyond the red room is the State dining room, which
is decorated in the colonial style of yellow. Here are the din
ners to the cabinet, diplomatic corps, and justices of the su
preme court. The china, silver, cut glass were designed espe
cially for the White House. The china, numbering one thousand
five hundred pieces was selected by Mrs. Hayes, and decorated
by Theodore R. Davis, the artist, with exquisite paintings of
American flowers, fruit, game, birds and fish. Each of the
five hundred and twenty pieces of cut glass are engraved with
the arms of the United States. The family dining room is
opposite. A massive oak table in the President's room has a
history. It was made from the timbers of Her Majesty's
Ship, Resolute.

110
Sir John Franklin's expedition was cast away in the
Arctic in 1846, and the long continued search for him engaged
the sympathy of the civilized world. Among the ships sent
in the search was the Resolute sent out by Queen Victoria.
This ship with the rest of the fleet was abandoned in the ice in
May, 1854.
In September, the same year she was sighted by an Ameri
can whaler, brought into an American port, and was presented
by United States to England.
This table made from the timbers of this ship was pre
sented in 1 88 1, by Queen Victoria to President of the
United States.
The White House is constructed of Virginia freestone.
It was the first public building erected at the new seat of gov
ernment. Washington selected the site, laid the corner stone,
October 13, 1792, and lived to see the building completed.
John Adams was the first occupant ini8oo. In 1814, it was
fired by marauding British troops and only the walls were left
standing. With the restoration the stone was painted white
to obliterate the effects of the fire, and thus it is called the
White House. In front of the White House is Lafayette
square. On one side is the Treasury; and on the other the
State, War and Navy Buildings. The house is set amid the
President's grounds, with flower beds, fountains and sloping
lawns. The grounds merge into the Mall, and stretch away
to the monument and Potomac. To the slopes south of the
house, the Washington children assemble for the famous egg
rolling on Easter Sunday. My niece, Sarah M. Price, at
tended the egg rolling on Easter, — , 1900, President McKin-
ley enjoying the fun.
The Lafayette Square is adorned by a monument. It is
a work of French artists. He is represented in the uniform

Ill
of the Continental Army. America extends to him a sword.
There are other figures in the group, Rochambeau, Duportail,
D'Estaing and De Grasse.
The Marquis de Lafayette, offered his services to the
Americans in 1777, was commissioned major-general, and
served throughout the war. He took part in the battles of
Brandy wine, Monmouth and Yorktown. In 1824, he re
visited America, and was given a continuous ovation by the
twenty-four states. In the center of the square is an eques
trian statue of General Jackson, as the hero of the battle of
New Orleans. The bronze was cast from cannon cap
tured in Jackson's campaigns. St. John's church on the north
side of the square was built in 18 16. One of its pews is set
apart for the President.
Second only to the Capitol, is the Treasury Building of
architectural importance. President Jackson became impatient
in choosing the site and put down his cane and said, "Let it
be there," and there it is. The daily transactions in the Treas
ury run into millions of dollars. The system of making new
money, exchanging new for old, is what one sees at the Treas
ury. The Bureau of Engraving and Printing is where the
paper money and postage stamps are made, but the actual work
of the plates is not shown. The paper money is made of a silk
fibered paper, made at the Crane Mills, Dalton, Massachusetts.
No other mill is allowed to make the same kind of paper. This
mill is not allowed to sell paper to any party, except the proper
government officials. In the redemption division there is an
average of one million dollars a day handled.
These handlers of worn out and chewed bills are all
women, being much better than men in deciphering these old
bills. The Treasury is guarded by a force of sixty-eight watch
men. Arms are stored in many of the rooms where much

112
money is handled; with these the captain of the watch could
instantly arm a thousand men. One of the doors of
the vault is a solid sliding door of six tons. There is now
$250,000,000 in the United States Treasury.
Objects of interest are exhibited in the State Library.
The sword of Washington. It is in a black leather case with
silver mountings. The handle is ivory, pale green, wound
with silver wire. The belt of white leather has silver mount
ings. This was one of the four swords given to the nephews
of Washington. It was chosen by Samuel Washington, and
presented by his son to Congress, in 1843. The staff of
Franklin. He said; "My fine crab tree walking stick; with
a gold head curiously wrought in the form of a cap of liberty,
I give to my friend, and the friend of mankind, George Wash
ington. If it were a scepter he has merited it. It was a
present to me from Madame DeForbach, the dowager duchess
of .Deauxponts." There are also buttons there from Frank
lin's dress coat. Thomas Jefferson's desk on which he wrote
the Declaration of Independence. Washington's eye-glasses,
given him by Lafayette and presented to United States by his
great-grandson, Count Octave Assailly. A whale's tooth
presented to United States as a treaty from the King of Fiji
Islands. Obus (explosive shell) from the Paris commune of
1 87 1. A thousand things I cannot remember.
In the Patent Office are four halls full of models. Some
of these models have become relics and are now placed in the
National Museum.
The Pension Office is a great business place. There are
two thousand clerks employed here, and among them many an
armless sleeve.
The Dead Letter Office is an interesting place. Clerks
seated on long tables receive these letters in bundles of one

lie
hundred each, and with the stroke of a knife they are opened
and contents examined. If money or anything of value is
found a careful record of it is made on the envelope into which
the letter and inclosure are returned. When it is possible to
find out from the inside where the letter is from it is either for
warded to the one to whom it is sent or returned to the writer.
Some eighteen thousand of these letters are handled in one
day. The amount of money found in them will average $50,-
000 a year — checks, drafts, money orders, a million more. This
mail matter is of several kinds, some wrongly addressed.
Thirty thousand a year without any address. Some properly
addressed but no postage. I note at random. Many articles
are found at Dead Letter Office; horns of animals, combusti
bles and explosives from firecrackers to cartridges of large
size, deeds of land, hack drivers' licenses, false teeth, horned
toads, tarantulas, bottles of consumption cure, five boxes Ayers
pills, loaded pistol addressed to a woman, ears of corn, garden
seed, musical instruments, toys of all kinds, salad oil, lockets,
German syrup, cod liver oil, embroideries, stamped linens,
safety pins, hatchets, alligators,' snakes in glass jars, bug and
insect killers, valentines, Indian scalps, fungi, Chinese curios,
canvas needles, gloves, forty thousand photographs go astray
in the mails every year, and are received at the Dead Letter
Office. The museum at the navy yard is' shaded by a willow tree
which was grown from a slip from a tree over the grave of
Napolean on St. Helena. The museum contains relics of war,
and different kinds of shells, projectiles and ordinance.
The Smithsonian Institute and National Museum are both
places of great interest. There are over 3,000,000 objects in
the museum. The historical collection of the museum contains
personal relics, mementoes, and memorials of most of the

114
Presidents of the United States. The uniform of Washington
is here, also the tent he used in the Revolution ; General Grant's
sword used at Fort Donelson; the New York sword voted by
Sanitary Fair in 1864. In the Mall one can find the silk worm
spinning silk shown in all stages ; cotton, flax, hemp.
The Corcoran Gallery contains the finest collection of
sculpture in America.
The Washington monument is a shaft of white marble.
Go where you will it is seen from every point. It has a new
appearance foir each hour of the day. It is an oblisk. The
facing of pure white marble. The monument is the highest
piece of masonry in the world. It is five hundred and fifty-five
feet and five and one-eighth inches high. Winthrop said at
the laying of the corner stone: "Lay the corner stone of a
monument which shall adequately bespeak the gratitude of the
whole American people to the illustrious 'Father of his Coun
try.' Build it to the skies; you cannot outreach the loftiness of
its principles. Found it upon the massive and eternal rock ; you
camiot make it more enduring than his fame. Construct it
out of the peerless Parian marble, you cannot make it purer
than his life. Exhaust upon it the rules and principles of
ancient and modern art; you cannot make it more proportion
ate than his character." The c6st of this monument was $1,-
300,000. There are so many monuments : One to Garfield,
and one to Martin Luther, General Scott, the Peace Monu
ment, and George Washington on his horse as he appeared at
the battle of Princeton.
The Soldiers' Home is a place of interest. It is beauti
fully situated. The grounds comprise five hundred and twelve
acres. At Arlington Cemetery sleep 16,000 soldiers, who died
in the war for the Union. It is consecrated ground, to which

115
thousands come every year, from the north and the south, the
east and the west, to honor those who gave their lives, that the
Union might survive. The gates are named Scott, Lincoln,
Stanton, Grant and McClellan. The house is occupied by the
keeper of the grounds. The mansion stands on the brow of
the hill, whose slope stretches away to the Potomac two hun
dred feet below. When Lafayette was a guest at Arlington
House, he pronounced the view from the porch, one of the
most beautiful he had ever looked upon. Most of the graves
at Arlington are on the plateau toward the Fort Myer Reserva
tion. Two thousand one hundred and eleven nameless soldiers
are gathered in one common grave. Arlington House was
built in 1802. The builder was George Washington Parke
Custis, son of John Parke Custis, whose widowed mother be
came Mrs. Martha Washington. When Colonel John Parke
Custis died at the siege of Yorktown, Washington adopted as
his own the two children, George Washington Parke Custis
and Eleanor Parke Custis. After the death of Mrs. Wash
ington in 1802, he removed to his Arlington estate. He drew
hosts of friends and visitors to Arlington. Lafayette was one
of the distinguished visitors. Upon the death of Custis, Ar
lington passed to the children of his only daughter, wife of
Colonel Robert E. Lee, of the United States army. When the
Civil W^ar came Colonel Lee resigned f,rom the Federal ser
vice; on April 22, 1861, he left Arlington, and with his family
went to Richmond, there to take command of Virginia troops,
and afterward to become commander-in-chief of the Con
federate Army. The Federal troops took possession of Ar
lington; a hospital was established there and a cemetery being
needed it was used. The first grave was a Confederate soldier,
who had died a prisoner. George Washington Custis Lee
was paid one hundred and fifty thousand dollars for his title.

116
MOUNT VERNON.

In the banquet hall is the mantel piece of Carrara and
Siena marble carved in Italy and presented to Washington by
Samuel Vaughan, of London.
The vessel on which this mantel was shipped was captured
by French pirates, who sent it to its destination when they
found it belonged to Washington.
In the dining room is a sideboard used ,by Martha Wash
ington and presented by Mrs. Robert E. Lee. In the banquet
hall is Washington's punch bowl. In one of the window
panes, one of Mrs. Washington's grandchildren cut her name
with a diamond and the date August 2, 1792, and it now re
mains. No cooking in the kitchen but the fire-place and great
brick oven are ready. The old hominy mortar is in the su
perintendent's room. The outbuildings comprise a butler's
house, wash house, ice house, meat house, spinning house and
green house. Above the door of the tomb of Washington are
the words : "I am the Resurrection and the Life. He that
believeth in Me, though he were dead yet shall he live." There
are three trees of interest near the tomb, an elm planted by Dom
Pedro, Emperor of Brazil in 1876.
Mount Vernon is on the Virginia shore of the Potomac.
It is sixteen miles south of Washington.
The Mansion House of Mount Vernon occupies a beau
tiful sight overlooking the river ; in the rear are lawns, orchards
and gardens. In front of the house are shaded lawns and a
deer park below. The main hall of the house extends from
front to back. The six rooms on first floor are the banquet
room, music room, west parlor, family dining room, Mrs.
Washington's sitting room and the library. This house was
built by Lawrence!, half brother of George Washington. On

117
the death of Lawrence and his only daughter, Washington
inherited the estate. He came to live here soon after his
marriage in 1759. He conducted his farm until called to the
field. To Mount Vernon he returned after the siege of York-
town, and again after his term as President. This estate
was bought by Ladies Mt. Vernon Association for $200,000:
Edward Everette gave $69,000 as a personal con
tribution; Washington Irving gave $500, and many
school children gave five cents. Several of the states
have different rooms in keeping. Alabama, main hall; Illinois,
the west parlor ; Virginia, the room in which Washington died.
A maple tree planted in 1881 by the Temperance Ladies
of America, and a British oak planted by request of the Prince
of Wales, in 1889, to replace a horse chestnut planted by him
in i860. Near the butler's house is a magnolia which was
bought and planted by Washington the last year of his life.
It was brought from the James river in 1709.

118

GEORGE WASHINGTON.

Trundling a wagon, with a heavy load.
Or galloping a horse over a beautiful road.
His stirrup all bright, his spur all steel.
He never dreamed of a tandem wheel.
He amused himself with bat and ball.
And often wore an old crumpled hat.
He liked to chop with his little hatchet.
But one day got into a terrible racket.
The tree he had chopped was a favorite cherry.
The tree had long made his old father merry.
He now came around and looked so wry,
George cried at once, "I will never tell a lie."
No button to press when he wanted light,
A grease oil lamp was then a delight.
Not even a match for the child to scratch.
And on the door an old fashioned latch.
Not a postage stamp for the boy to lick.
But the very thought would have made him sick.
An old red Seal made his letters stick.
And they could not be opened so very quick.
And when a message he wanted to send.
To his best girl or off to a friend.
He did not wait for wire or end of a string,
He might get left with such a fool thing.

119
He simply walked down to the brow of the hill.
Caught an old goose and pulled out a quill,
A very fine letter he often wrote.
But poetry-he was no hand to quote.
No electric motor for him to ride on,
No heated balloon to come tumbling down,
When his mother wanted fire, she gave a hint.
He got out his knife and picked up a flint.
No carriage without horses then did go.
No machinery with which to reap or mow,
To do without these and no electric fan,
It requires a wonderfully constituted man.
We have all these, a thousand things more.
But the brain of George Washington is not in store
Higher education or Buffalo show.
But the man with the brain is nearly all blow.
t
We have great men, one Admiral Dewey,
But men like Washington are scarce and fewey.
He did as much as others and made no mistakes.
Others do great things and they make great breaks.
Amanda E. Miller Bates.
Normal, 111., February 22, 1900.

120
INDIANS.
ROYALTY AT THE PARIS EXPOSITION.

Away up in the northwestern part of Wisconsin, near Black
River Falls, an old man with a wrinkled, copper colored face
sits on the ground in the center of a wigwam. His legs are
drawn beneath him like a tailor's. There are streaks of red,
yellow and blue paint on his forehead, cheeks and chin. His
little black eyes shine like the eyes of a snake. In his hair are
eagle feathers, bright beads and bits of ribbons. His body sways
backward and forward, at times almost touching the earth.
He shakes with his hands, a gourd filled with jingling things
that beat a monotonous measure, to the weird incantation that
he mumbles. He is the medicine-man of the Winnebago In
dians, and he is making medicine to protect the royal line of
chiefs and princesses of his tribe, from the bad spirits of the
water that they will encounter on their journey across the
ocean to the Paris exposition. They will sail this month of
March, so the medicine men of the Sioux, Chippewas, the Pot-
tawatomies, Tuscaroras, Cheyennes, Navajos, and Apaches are
making medicine in their wigwams, for many of the tribe will
go to the strange land of the Frenchman. These Indians hesi
tate to take this trip, although all expenses will be paid and they
will receive good salaries besides. They fear the evil spirits
in the great ocean, being stronger in water, than on land. But
probably, the most potent factor in inducing the Indian chiefs
and princesses to make this great journey across the water is
the confidence they have in a white man who brought peace to
some of their tribes, after a long and bloody war of forty years,
and who, upon the death of Black Hawk, united the terrible fac
tions of the Winnebagoes, and was selected by them as their

121
chief. They first called him Brave Man, but when they chose
him leader, they named him, in our language White Buffalo,
which is the name of the greatest honor which they have. White
Buffalo is known in Peoria, Illinois, where he was born, as
Thomas R. Roddy, but he has lived with the red men for so
many years that they all regard him as their brother.
He took them to the Chicago World's Fair and led them
safely back to their wigwams on the reservation. So, in spite
of their fears, they have consented to go to Paris with him,
and are looking forward to their sojourn in Paris with antici
pations of pleasure. The North American Indian will be ap
preciated in Paris. The Indian is not a tiller of the soil, nor
never will be. He is an artificer, a handworker of marvelous
skill and ingenuity, with nothing but rude tools fashioned by
himself, he carves wonderful things from bone and ivory, and
by a gentle touch he makes jewelry from silver and gold. He
has the eye and skill of a mechanic. He would make a good
carpenter, or wood carver. The Indian women are proficient
in the use of the needle. Their sewing cannot be excelled by
that of civilized nations. Their bead work shows a genius of
patience and skill. Their weaving of cloth and blankets by
hand from the raw material shows remarkable ingenuity. His
every word is poetry. Read the speech of Logan, the chief of
the Mingoes. Fifty Indians are selected from various tribes to go to
Paris. They will be members of the royal families, persons of
high rank. The Winnebagoes are the strongest mentally of
all the Indians; the Sioux, the most perfectly formed people,
the men are athletes, the women beautiful; the Apaches, the
most savage fighters and the most treacherous, whom General
Miles named human tigers.
Such a celebrated group as these, for Paris exposition have
never before been grouped together. Their ancestry traces

122
back many years, and they are as proud of their forefathers,
as Queen Victoria is of her's. The Princess Neola, who with
her daughter will sail this march, is royal descent. A Winne
bago princess, her mother a Tuscarora, a sister to Mount Pleas
ant, head chief of the Iroquois. She was niece of General Ely
S. Parker, a full blood Seneca Indian, who was General Grant's
military secretary during the Civil War, and afterward Com
missioner of Indian Affairs. Neola was educated at Thomas
Institute, New York, and is a woman of rare ability. She speaks
English, German, Winnebago, Seneca, Tuscarora, and plays
twelve different musical instruments. She has traveled through
New and Old Mexico and visited all the large cities of the
United States from the Pacific coast to the east. Her name
among the Winnebagoes is Sunbeam. She is married to a
' white man, George D. Fuerst, who has been with the Indians
since boyhood. Her third daughter, ,who is four years old
will accompany her to Paris. Her name is Shur-a-winka ;
which in English means a money girl. Two noted grand
daughters of Black Hawk, Blue Wing and Feather Wing, will
go to Paris. I well remember many stories of the Black Hawk
War. It was just at the closeof the war that my grandfather set
tled in Peoria county, Illinois. I have made the Indian a study. I
saw White Buffalo and Neola at World's Fair. I too saw old
Rain in the Face. He was the largest man I ever saw. Another
fierce old chief who will cross the water is Whirling Thunder.
He is getting old now, and rather subdued. He was second in
command at the time of the Custer Massacre. I was in Cali
fornia at the time General Custer's wife, received the sad news
of General Custer's death. She was at a hotel in San Fran
cisco at the time. Little Bear is the best horseman of the
Sioux. He is a terrible fighter, and is called the Soldier Killer.
He was sentenced to hang, for being in the great massacre in

123
Minnesota in 1863 of which Little Crow was leader, when
seven hundred men, women and children were killed. Three
hundred Indians were sentenced to be hanged, but President
Lincoln commuted the sentences of all by thirty-nine to im
prisonment for ten years. These thirty-nine were executed
at Mankato, Minnesota. Soldier Killer, was sent to prison,
but was pardoned in four years. He is now seventy-five years
old, wrinkled and bent. Lone Tree is one of the finest dancers
of the Sioux. He is an Indian of the old school who does not
believe in advancement. He detests the clothes of civilization,
and likes the nakedness and feathers of a century ago. Besides
these there will be many well known among their tribes.
There will be Green Hay, a brother-in-law of George
Fuerst, peaceful and thoughtful. There will be White Dog
and Standing Bear and Black Spirit, stubborn and always
against the thing that is. And there will be Little Wolf, one
of Geronimo's band, that chased back and forth across the bor
der into Mexico and for eighteen years eluded the soldiers.
The Indian village at Paris will occupy a space of two hundred
by one hundred feet. It will represent the Indian at home on
his reservation. There will be seen the wigwams of skins and
cat-tail rushes. The squaws will prepare the food in their own
utensils. They will pound the corn in the wooden mortar and
cook their stews in the big kettles. The women of rank will
be adorned with ear-rings, and different jewels. The ghost
dance and the marriage dance will be performed. There will
be tests of horsemanship and with the rifle. The chief of the
medicine-men will sit in his wigwam in Paris making medi
cine for the safe' return of his tribe to America. I have seen
the blanket of the Navajos in the hand loom. I have visited
the snake, or digger Indian in his wigwam, also the Walapai.
Have visited the Indian school at Jubilee, Illinois, and Phcenix,

124
Arizona. The snake dance is interesting to some people, but
I think it hideous. They carry snakes in their hands turning,
twisting, wriggling them in all shapes. The Indian is a
changeable creature. A story of my childhood comes to mind,
which was often repeated by my mother. My mother's first
husband's name was John Estep, his only son lives near Dun
can, Stark county, Illinois. James M. Estep, by name. When
she was first married her husband decided to settle in Iowa.
Their home was near the then village of Ottumwa. There
were many Indians there, only two white families, by name of
Estep and Morgan. It was twenty miles to a flouring mill.
The Morgan family consisted of father, mother, a grown son
and a daughter sixteen years of age, whose name was Mary,
whose hair was red, the Indians calling her red squaw, and no
good. The Estep family consisted of my mother and her
husband and her two children, a girl of five years and James
of two years. Mr. Morgan and Mr. Estep decided to take
some wheat to mill, and as' it took several days to make the
trip, Mary Morgan came to stay with my mother, as she did
not like to stay alone with the children. The Indians had
been friendly, and two Indian men called, they had something
under their blankets. They acted so curious the women were
afraid. When the Indians took out a large knife, then motion
ing to the other to remove his blanket, when he took out a
screech owl, cut off its toes, gave it to the children to play with,
which calmed their fears.
Tom Thunder, son of John Thunder, the big medicine
man of the Winnebago tribe of Wisconsin, has proclaimed
himself chief of the tribe, dating his ascension to the chieftain
ship January i, 1900. Tom Thunder is thirty years of age
and is far above the average member of the tribe in general
intelligence. He says White Buffalo, is a Chicago Irishman,

125
who was made chief by the will of the former leader, is only
a show chief, while he is the simon pure chief of the tribe, and
will see that he is respected in his high office. He intends that
White Buffalo will not be tolerated, should he attempt to carry
out the advertised coronation to take place when the dandelions
are in bloom. Tom Thunder says he is willing to settle the
question in accordance with tribe customs and an appeal to the
tomahawk will be made. He says let "White Buffalo put up
or shut up."

126

ZACHEUS.

It was on a beautiful sunny day.
In the land of Palestine far away.
That Zacheus climbed up into a tree,
When Jesus was passing, whom he wished to see.
The multitude pressing was very great,
So Zacheus thought that he would wait.
He feared a stampede he was so small.
He then spied a sycamore leafy and tall.
In the branches he then did hide,
And looked on the multitude in glory and pride,
That he was above them and Jesus could see,
And none could see him so thought he.
Now Jesus spied him on a limb.
And said "Zacheus, come down among the rest.
And I will go and stay with you.
And for awhile will be your guest."
Then Zacheus came down at last.
Along the road with Jesus walked.
And as those rustic scenes they passed.
They of God and His Kingdom talked.
Then Zacheus his sins confessed.
Gave half he had unto the poor.
And then he felt that he was blest.
More than he had ever been before.
June II, 1900. Amanda E. Bates.

127

ATTICA. INDIANA. LITHIA SPRINGS HOTEL

The Wabash river, at this place is very interesting, not so
very far from here the Tippecaiioe battle ground and then I
remember the beautiful song.
"On the Banks of the Wabash."
The writer of this song still lives not far from Attica.
The river is spanned by three beautiful bridges, and the banks
are covered with vines and trees, the sycamore, sassafras,
sumac, being quite prominent. The scenery along the river
is very romantic, and Williamsport on the west side of the
river is a romantic place.
There are several hotels in Attica, but the Lithia Springs
hotel seems to be the traveling man's home. The Lithia
water seems to drive the dust from his throat better than any
beer or cider he may be able to obtain. There are three news
papers printed in the place, but the Ledger seems to be the
best paper of the town. There are several large book firms
of which Messrs. J. A. Brady, and C. Lewis Ahrens are the
principal. Attica is a shipping point for the Sterling Remedy
Company. They are located in a fine building on one of the
principal streets. They are doing a big business, employing
from one hundred and fifty to three hundred young ladies and
gentlemen. I shall attempt to describe in a brief way this beautiful
health resort. It is near the Wabash river, in Indiana, near the
city of Attica. Attica is situated at the junction of the Chicago
and Eastern Illinois and Wabash railways. The Lithia Spring
is a deep well 1500 feet deep. It is a fine mineral water con
taining lithium, sodium and other combinations. This hotel
is one of beauty, being airy and cool. It was opened in April

128
1900, by W. C. Furman, a wealthy man of Chicago. It
contains many fine parlors, halls, new furniture, hardwood
floors and fine rugs. All the rooms for guests are outside
rooms, sixty in number. Each room supplied by a call bell,
electric light and steam heat. The dining hall is large, beau
tifully lighted. One of the decorations of the dining room is
a china cupboard filled with hand painted china, made by the
landlady. Through the month of June there were three hun
dred guests at this hotel. It was my pleasure to stay there in
August of 1900, and I enjoyed the hospitality of both family
and the sociability of its guests, and shower baths.
The plan of the home affords a homelike place for all.
being so clean and cool, then the pleasant family of the land
lord, W. C. Furman, adds greatly to the charms of the place.
Then Doctor Boiling and wife are so very pleasant to the
visitor it makes the place indeed a home.
Then there are many other attractions, tennis, golf, cro
quet, tether ball, and almost any game one may choose. Then
entertainments are often held in the house. August 16 and 17,
the Chicago Glee Club entertained us with their cheerful songs
and comedies. One song, "Tom, Tom, the Piper's son stole a
pig, and away he ran," another laughable song; "A seein things
at night." Miss Irene Horner the soprano with the Glee
Club is a very fine singer. Miss Ardela Davis is the pianist.
The members of this club are, F. W. Garn, first tenor ; D. F.
Thomas, second tenor; H. Campbell, baritone; C. H. Dixon,
basso and manager. If you hear them once you want to
hear them again.
Mr. Dixon of this club is a nephew of Reverend Tullis
a Methodist minister of note, who held a pastorate at Normal,
Illinois, two years ago.

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The view west from the hotel is very beautiful. The
trees along the river bed then towering hills to Williamsport
the capital of Warren county.
This health resort promises to be one of great interest
in the years to come. Here we meet many very fine people.
A Mrs. Leland, of Buffalo, New York, who has resided at
both these springs. She prefers them for a quiet home, also
for their fine bathing facilities. Very many interesting
features are connected with trips to these great health resorts.
A very noble lady whose home is on Wabash avenue, Chicago,
who is a fine reader; in reading the poem entitled, "George
Washington," she turned to an attentive listener who also
resides on Wabash avenue. She asked, "Mr. L., do you know
who George Washington is?" His reply was, "I see him
often. He is the colored man who scrubs my stone steps. He
lives on Armour avenue." A traveling man from Boston de
clared he was mistaken for George V/ashington was dead.
That he had attended his funeral, February 14, 1900, at Mt.
Vernon, D. C. So you see there is a variety of opinion in
these matters and you see these men are both mistaken and
both are intelligent gentlemen. They were trying to find out
what George Washington I meant.
Inflammatory rheumatism so often obstinate under ordin
ary medicinal treatment, yields in much less time under the in
fluence of mud baths than in the use of drugs. The high tem
perature is often reduced to normal in a few days, the pain
and swelling of the joints is rapidly ameliorated, and the dura
tion of the disease is shortened to a week or ten days. The
soreness, stiffness, lameness of the joints and muscles is soon
relieved, and the patient who could not move without suffering,
finds that he can exercise with comfort. Many physicians
agree on the wonderful curative powers of the so-called Mud
Bath.

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The Lithia springs hotel is new. It is beautifully located
on the outskirts of the city of 4,000 inhabitants on an eminence
insuring pure air and perfect drainage. Every room is an out
side room.
It was built especially as a health resort. The bath de
partment is under the same roof, thereby requiring no exposure
to and from the bath. The mineral water piped into the hotel
discharging 10,400 gallons an hour. A diet kitchen has been
provided so those requiring special foods can be supplied.

131

THE MAN OF ATTICA.
Over in Indiana,
The good old Hoosier state,
I met a man of Attica,
Who had something to relate.
He had some stomach trouble.
His liver was out of gear.
His kidneys were all upset.
But he had still more fear.
He had sciatic rheumatism.
Perhaps a little gout.
And if you follow closely,
You will find the thing all out.
He felt that satan held a claim.
Against his natural life,
But then he came to Lithia Springs,
And came without his wife.
They gave nice things for him to eat,
And Lithia water him to drink.
They piled him up in mud a heap,
And he had naught to do but think.
He fell asleep, he dreamed a dream.
There in his bed of sticky mud.
When all at once the doctor came.
And gave him such a thud.

132
He dreamed that God was the giver.
Of health-giving Springs in Indiana,
That a city on a beautiful river.
Was Attica on the Wabash.
The hotel is a mansion alone.
Built in old colonial style.
It matters not whether 'tis wood or stone.
It is filled up all the while.
The landlord is a Furman, .
Although he is not a bear.
His wife he quite often fans.
She calls him Willie fair.
A new doctor has set his ball rolling.
He comes recommended from Fort Wayne,
His name is Lewis Boiling,
He is an expert in curing pain.
Now friend I have awakened quite.
From my very beautiful dream.
Now I will go and a new poem write,
Down by the Wabash stream.
Attica, Indiana, August 8, 1900.

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INDIANA MINERAL SPRINGS.
Near the ancient city of Attica, on the classic "Banks of the
Wabash," Indiana Mineral Springs, are located. The place is
skirted by rugged Pine Creek and it nestles among oak, hickory
and elm trees. Rising amid the hills and foliage are the
hotels and buildings. There from the front verandas is a
pleasant view of farm lands down the little valley. Here and
there are pagodas and pavilions that shelter these Lithia
Springs, that furnish an inexhaustible supply of water. This
water is used for all purposes. Below the springs is a great
Magno mud deposit. Many rheumatic patients are packed
in this mud and then bathed in Lithia water and cured.
There is enough life about the place to make it lively,
and quiet enough to make it restful. There is good ^compan
ionship for those who wish social life and isolation for those
who wish it. At the time of my visit to these springs there
were near two hundred guests there.
A vegetable garden is cultivated on the grounds, a herd
of high bred cows give the milk, butter and cream supply.
The hotel and grounds are lit by electricity and the water is
available from hydrants and dippers wherever reasonably de
sired. This place is melodious all day with songs of myriads of
wild birds and there are all the delights of a country home,
with the conveniences of the city as to domestic appointments.
So this place is not only possessed of curative powers but a
beautiful pleasure resort. These springs are located some five
miles north of Attica. Pine Creek takes its name from the
pine trees on its banks. There is an established postoffice at

134
the Indiana Mineral Springs where a large amount of mail ar
rives each day. The hotel is a large fine building with a new
addition now under construction that will cost twenty-five
thousand dollars. An electric light plant illuminates the hotel
and surroundings. The bath-rooms, there are none finer in
this country. They are wainscoted with brown marble and the
floor of mosaic tile. «
The bath tubs or porcelain and large size. The trimmings
are polished nickel. Leaded art glass windows of large size
admit a siibdued light, lending a pleasing effect to the interior.
It reminds one of the famous baths that wie read of in the early
days of Rome.
H. L. Kramer, assisted by his brother, B. C. Kramer, are
the able managers of these springs. The Lithia water tubs are
Tennessee marble. Marble slabs are in use for massage treat
ment. The curative powjers of the mud and water were accidently
discovered by one Sam Storey, a fitcher, who was troubled badly
with rheumatism and scrofula. Every one thinking the work
in the ditch would be his certain death but as he got well instead
they saw at once that the mud and water had performed the
cure. And there is a chapel which was dedicated the last of May
and services Were held there, so that the visitor at the springs
is not denied his church privilege on Sunday. There are many
nice things I could say about the springs. But go and see
and try the mud, used in the baths of the mineral springs of
Attica.

135

SUCCESS.

Almost every great achievement in the world's history,
like liberty, has had to win its triumph through opposition,
through insurmountable, obstacles, and often through blood
itself.* It is downright hard work, indomnitable energy and
and perseverance which found the world, mud and left it mar
ble, which found civilization in the cradle and elevated it to
the throne. A constant struggle, a ceaseless battle to bring
success from inhospitable surroundings, is the price of all
achievement. The man who had not fought his way up to his
own loaf and does not bear the scars of desperate, conflict, does
not know the highest meaning of success. There is scarcely
a great man in history who has not had to fight the way to
his eminence inch by inch, against opposition and often
through ridicule and abuse of friends, as well as enemies.
Even Washington was threatened by a rude mob because he
would not listen to the clamor of the people. The Duke of
Wellington was mobbed in the streets of London, while his
wife lay dead in the house. Bruno was burned in Rome, for
revealing the heavens and Versalins was condemned for dis
secting the human body. Roger Bacon one of the greatest
thinkers the world ever seen, was terribly persecuted, his
books burned in public, and he was kept in prison for ten
years. Barnum began the race in business life, barefoot. At
the age of fifteen, he was obliged to buy on credit the shoes
he wore to his father's funeral. His museum was burned
several times, and he met with reverses which would have dis
heartened most men, but he had that pluck and grit which
knows no defeat.

136
Robert Collyer brought his bride to America in the steer-
ao-e He worked at the anvil in Pennsylvania nine years. By
hard work he became one of the greatest of preachers.
Columbus was dismissed as a fool from court after court,
but he pushed his suit against an incredulous and ridiculing
worid. Rebuffed by kings, scorned by queens, he never
swerved a hair's breadth from his great purpose.
Seven shoemakers sat in Congress, during the first cent
ury of our government, Roger Sherman, Henry Wilson, Gid
eon Lee, John Halley, H. P. Baldwin and Daniel Sheffey.
Gallileo discovered greater things than has any one else, with
a great telescope. Gifford worked his intricate problems with
a shoemaker's awl on bits of leather.
John Brighton, the author of "The Beauties of England
and Wales," used to study in bed because too poor to afford
a fire. The great founder of Boston University left Cape Cod
for Boston, to make his way in the world with only four dol
lars. But he was not afraid of obstacles nor hardships. "He
could find, no opening for a boy," any more than Horace
Greely could, so he made one. He found a board and made it
into an oyster stand on the street corner; he borrowed a
wheelbarrow went three miles to an oyster smack, bought
three bushels of oysters and -^yheeled them to his stand. Soon
his little savings amounted to one hundred and thirty dollars,
with which he bought a horse and cart. This poor boy kept
right on until he became the millionaire, Isaac Rich.
See young Disraeli sprung from a hated and persecuted
race, without education, without opportunities, pushing his
way up through the lower classes, through the middle classes,
through the highest classes until he stands self-poised upon
the topmost round of political and social power. Scoffed,

137 '
ridiculed, hissed from the House of Commons, he simply says :
"The time will come when you shall hear me." The time
did come, and the boy with no chance swayed the scepter of
England as prime minister a quarter of a century.
Thomas Carlyle and Hugh Miller were masons; Dante
and Descartes were soldiers ; Jeremy Taylor was a barber ;
Cardinal Wolsey, Defoe and Henry Kirke White were butch
ers' sons; Faraday was the son of a blacksmith and his
teacher, Bunyan, a tinker and Copernicus the son of a baker.
Richard Cobden was a boy in a London warehouse. His
first speech in Parliament was a failure, but he was not afraid
of defeat, and soon became one of England's great orators.
About 1840 a lad who had come from the Catskill Mountains,
where he had learned the rudiments of penmanship by scrib-
ling on the leather of a Quaker shoemaker, (for he was too
poor to buy paper) till he could write better than his neigh
bors, commenced to teach in that part of Ohio which has been
called "benighed Ashtabula." He set up a writing school in a
rude log cabin, and threw into the work the spirit that few
men possess. He caught his ideas of beauty from the waves
of the lake and the curves they make upon the white beach,
and from the tracery of the spider's web. Studying the lines
of beauty as drawn by nature's hand, he wrought out that
system of penmanship, which is the pride of our schools — the
Spencerian. Teach youth that labor is the great schoolmaster of the
race, and that industry and perserverance are the price which
all must pay for distinction ; that it takes nerve to wear old
clothes when ones schoolmates are dressed in broadcloth; it
takes courage to say no when all the world says yes.
Show young men and young women that to succeed, they
must pour their whole hearts and gouls into their work, they

138
must be fired by a determination which knows no defeat,
which cares not for hunger or ridicule, which spurns hardship
and laughs at want and disaster; and that he would get
the most out of life must fight his way up to whatever -worthy
prizes he would win.
"Success like some soft fairy veil
¦Will cover the deeds of men,
It makes the ugliest wrong look right,
And all seem fair again.
"Then in thine own cheerful spirit live.
Nor seek the help that others give.
For thou thyself erect must stand,
Not held upright by other's hand."

139

WHEN THE SUN GOES DOWN,

All nature seeks a quite rest,
And lulls to sleep on mother's breast.
The daisy shuts her bright blue eye.
When the sun goes down.
The children cease their mirthful play.
The stars do shine through tWilight gray,
The weary plowman homeward plods his way
When the sun goes down.
The soldier sleeps with a vague unrest.
While the sentinel doth watch with a frown.
At his post in the great wild West
When the sun goes down.
The ship is rigged and manned for the night.
The sailors and mate then fall asleep.
But often awakened with storms that fright
When the sun goes down.
The day lily opens her beautiful bloom,
The night-blooming cereus encircles the night.
The rattlesnake dies that was killed at noon
When the sun goes down.
Near Judea's hill on Bethlehem's plain,
Jesus the Christ-child there was born.
To guide poor fallen man alone,
When the sun goes down.

YALE UNIVERSITY

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