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A SCAMPER

THROUGH AMERICA.

PRINTED BY T. H. NORTH,
NORTHERN EVENING MAIL OFFICE,
WE^T HARTLEPOOL.

Scamper Through America
OR,
FIFTEEN THOUSAND MILES
OF
OCEAN AND CONTINENT
IN
SIXTY DAYS.

By T. S. HUDSON.

SECOND THOUSAND.

GRIFFITH & FAREAN,
Successors to Newbury and Harris,
WEST CORNER ST. PAUL'S CHURCHYARD, LONDON,
j;. P. DUTTON & Co., NEW YORK.
1882.

The Rights of Translation md Reproduction c(,re Reserved,

BeMcation.
TO MY OFTENTIMES Co-voyageior
H. BYRON REED, ESQ.,
THIS RECORD OF A PLEASANT HOLIDAY IS DEDICATED
WITH CORDIAL ASSURANCE
THAT HIS GENIAL COMPANIONSHIP AND READY RESOURCE
WERE EVER BROUGHT TO MIND WHEN ON
BROAD PRAIRIE, LOFTY MOUNTAIN,
AND BARREN DESERT;
WHILE BREAKING FAST AMID THE ETERNAL SNOWS,
AND SUPPING
IN THE LAND OP PERENNIAL SUMMER;
BY HIS AFFECTIONATE FRIEND,
THE AUTHOR.

INTRODUCTION.
A description of the voyages to and
from,, and a tour in, America, may
appear to be the telling of a more
than thrice-told tale; but, with all
previous knowledge acquired by read
ing, one finds upon coming to have
personal experience of such a journey
that there is enough to fill volumes
with facts and impressions that other,
and more literary, travellers have
not thought it worth while to nar
rate.

CONTENTS.

Dedication  .,, ... v
Introduction ... ... ... ... ... ... vii
Day One — Crossing the Bar — Vexatious Delays — To
Bed — Good Friday — Rock of Tuscar — Cove of
Cork — Queenstown — Irish Emigrants — Shillalaghs —
Orange Sellers — Last sight of Land... ... ... 1
Day. Two — Heaving the Log — Taking Observations —
Working of the Engines — Lounge on Deck — Ship's
Library — Comforts of Steerage Passengers — Bever
ages of ditto — Amusements of ditto... ... ... 6
Day Three — Mal-de-mer—'FMll Sail — Easter Service
— The Good Bishop — Sunday Music — The Catholic'
Priest — Detachment of Salvation Army — Irish
Ditties — A Sudden Storm-^Injuries to Sailors — A
Dreai-y Evening — Dismal Forebodings _ ... ... 10
B

X CONTENTS.
Day Four — After the Storm — Infirmary — Convales
cent Passengers — Bad Day's "Run" ... ... 16
Day Five — Maritime Courtesies — ^A Dissatisfied Ejni-
grant — A Monstre Meal — Our Skipper ... ... 18
Day Six — Cold Weather — Barber's Shop — A Dear
Shave — Signalling Passing Ships — ^Narrow Escape of
Fellow Passenger ... ... ... ... ... 20
Day Seven — "Smooth as OiJ" — Quicker Progress —
Large number of Vessels ... ... ... ... 23
Day Eight — Boat Drill — ^Readiness for abandoning
the Ship — Intense vitality of a Storm at Sea —
Concert on Board^^Liberality of Passengers ... 24
Day Nine — Taking Pilot — Sweepstakes - - Kind
Officers — Genial Doctor — Attentive Stewai ds and
Stewardesses — Electric Lighting — Paeumatic Bells —
Luxurious Appointments ... ... ... ... 27
Day Ten — Sandy Hook — Quarantine Station — Land
ing of the Mails— The Almighty Dollar — New York
Harbour^Gustom House Troubles— First Impression
of Streets^^Elevated Railroad — Fifth Avenue Hotel
— Magnificence and Filth — Manners and Customs —
Aurora Borealis ... ... ... ... ... 29
Day Eleven — Central Park — Broadway — Display of
Bunting — Delmoilico's — Hotel Charges — Boot Clean
ing — No Bills — Hack Fares — Baggage Express —

CONTENTS. Xl
Hoffman House Drinking Bar— Irish Waiters and
Porter's — American Pronunciation — A Heavy Swell
¦ — Novel Lighthouse — A Railway Station — Descrip-
ition of the "Cars" — Stifling Atmosphere — Cold
Drinks — Landscape blurred by Advertisements ... 36
Day Twelve — Negro Waiters — Tremendous Break
fasts — Bill of Fare — ^The Edinburgh of the States —
Harvard University — ^Cambridge (not on the Cam)
— Boston Harbour — Boundless Resources — " Ele
vators" or Lifts — Telephones — Big Telescope ... 45
Day Thirteen — The Hoosio Tunnel — A Temperance
Railway Refreshment Stall — No Beer — The Delavan
Hotel at Albany — A Fire-escape — The New Capitol
—The Cathedral— "Dim Religious Light"  49
Day Fourteen — The Hudson River — Comparison with
the Rhine and the! Danube — A New York Billiard
Hall — The Cannon Game — Pyramids — Novel mode
.of " Marking " — A Crowded Hotel — A Dear Bottle
of Brandy ... ... ... ••• ••• ••• 51
Day Fifteen — Philadelphia — Unusual Cold — Rugged
and uneven Roadways — Locomotive Bells — The
Tramways — Good English Spoken — Absence of
Nasal Twang  54
Day Sixteen — A Street Twenty-three miles long
¦ — Convenient Numbering of Houses and Streets-^
Fairmount Park — Laurel Hill Cemetery — Hand
some Dwellings — Centennial Exhibition Building.^

XU CONTENTS.
Memorial Museum — Girard Hospital — A Wealthy
Institution — New Railway Station— Colossal Map —
Usually Wretched Stations ... ... ... ... 56
Day Seventeen — Spring Snowstorm at Washington,
in same Latitude as Madrid^Trees in Leaf weighted
with Snow — Impassible Streets — Church of the
Ascension — Low Church Service — " Sit and Sing " — ¦
A " Collared Baptist " Church — A Negro Minister
and Congregation — Sweet Singing — Church of the
Holy Cross — A Ritualistic Evensong — The Capitol,
snow-covered, by Moonlight — Wliat the Washington
Post recorded... ... ... ... ... ... 59
Day Eighteen — Baltimore — Sail down the Harbour
— Quick Work of the Port — Potatoes from England
— Chrome Ore from Turkey — Grain Elevators —
Oyster Packing — Always in Season — Uses for Oyster-
Shells — City of Monuments — Explanation of Mis
nomer ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 6.3
Day Nineteen — Spring at Last — The Backdoor of the
Capitol — Plan of the City — Washington's Intentions
as to its Foundation — Natural Conservatories —
American Parsimony — Sensible Hours of Sitting of
Congress — Method of Busijiess — ; Objectionable
Tobacco-smoking in Parliament — Visitors' Gallery 
Anti-British Speech in the House — Taking a Divi
sion — Extensive Corruption — A ~ Gigantic Piece of
Jobbery — The Supreme Court — Gownless Barristers
Spot where Garfield was Shot — Memorial Marks ... 66

CONTENTS. xiii
Day Twenty— a Drive in a " Herdick "—The White
House — Pictures the reverse of Complimentary to
England — The Treasury — The Navy Yard — Naval
Museum and Library — Gunboat to Convey President
Arthur to Naval Review — Hospitable Friends — A
Romantic Family History ... o.. ... ... 74
Day Twenty-One — Inconvenience of Running Trains
by difierent "Times" — Baggage "Smashers" —
Harper's Ferry — Valley of Virginia — The Allegheny
Mountains — Mountain Toi:rehts rushing over and
under the Railway — Summit of the Range — Descent
to Grafton  78
DA?y Twenty-Two — Cincinnati — A German Roman
Catholic Church — Breakfast Bill of Fare on Board
the Oars — ^Robust Republicanism — Speculations as
to Coming Evil — Inconsistencies in the Constitution
and Actions of the United States Government ... 82
Day Twenty-Three — East St. Louis — The City of St.
Louis — Likeness to Gateshead and Newcastle-on-
Tyne — Bridge Across the Mississippi — Leviathan
River Steamer — Lafayette Park — Thriving Port in
the Centre of a Continent — German Population —
The Southern Hotel  86
Day Twenty-Four — The Wheat Fields of Missouri —
' Prospects of Harvest — Farmsteads and Prosperous
Towns — English ideas of going from Home for a
¦Change — A Big Figure 8— Council Blufis — Bridge

XIV CONTENTS.
over the Missouri River — ^Omaha — Union Pacific
Railroad  909 i i
Day Twenty-Five — The Plate River — Cheyenne —
Territory of Wyoming — Spreading Prairie — Antelope
and Prairie Dogs — Emigrant Waggons drawn by
Mules — Skeletons of Cattle — Work of a " Vigilance
Committee "—First Sight of the Rocky Mountains
— Pike's Peak — Snowsheds — Sherman — The Highest
Railway Station in the World — Life " on board " the
Cars — Frequeacy of Stoppages ... ... ... 95
Day Twenty-Six — The Dividing Ridge of Mountains
— A Train-load of Oysters — Collieries — Slow Travel
ling — Soldiers en route to "quell" the Indians — Lack
of Greenness of American Pastures — Scanty Pastur
age — Utter Desolation — Sagebrush — Alkali — Want
of Water — Government Ignorance as to Capabilities
of the West— -Land Too Dear — A Suggested Remedy
— The Heathen Chinee — More Coal Mines — Echo
and Weber Canons — Salt Lake VaUey— Ogden ... 9S
Day Twenty-Seven — Salt Lake City — Distinguished
Guests at the Continental Hotel — Plan of the City —
Encompassing Mountains — Mormonismthe Enemy of
Progress — Polygamy Discredited — The Electric Light
and Telephone — The Tabernacle — Marvellous Acous
tic Properties — Conversation with Aged Mormon 
Interviewing President Taylor — A Lancashire Man's
Defence of Polygamy ¦... ... ... ... 104
Day Twenty-Eight — The .Hjimbolt Valley, River and

CONTENTS. XV
Mountains — Traces of Volcanic Action — Wells of
Water in the Extinct Craters — Be-o-wa^-we Station —
Boiling Sulphuric Springs— Humboldt Lake and
Carson Sink — -No Visible Outlet — Rapid Evapora
tion — Dreary Desert — Nevada Plains — Great,
Mineral Wealth — Strange Names of Places — Use of
Spanish Words — Governmental Care of the Indians 113
Day Twenty-Nine — The Truckee River — ^The Comet
— rThe Sierra Nevada Mountains — Rounding " Cape
Horn '' — A Transformation Scene — Vineyards — Seas
of Wheat — Orchards — Climate of California — The
Largest Fertyboat in the World — ^Oakland Pier —
San Francisco — The Palace Hotel — The Ceylon — The
Bay and Harbour — Fine Sailing Ships — Graving
Dock cut out of Solid Rock — Chinatown — ^Act of
Congress prohibiting Chinese Immigration — Enter
prising Newsagent ... ... ... ... ... 120-
Day Thirty — Daily Ocean Breeze and Mist — The
Cliff House — Pacific Breakers — ^The Seal Rocks —
Immense Seals — Freemasons' and Oddfellows' Ceme
teries — Houses Built of Wood — Domestic Comforts
— " House Removers " — Universal Use of the Tele
phone — Indifference to Small Money — The Safe
Deposit Block — Perfect Tramway System — The ill-
fated Jecmnette Expedition — Hollowness of Condem
nation of Dublin Murders — Reception of the News
on Saturday Night— Fruitless Appeals for Sympathy 131
Day Thirty-One — Religious Census — Lax Keeping of
the Sabbath — Taking Tickets for Quebec — A Big

xvi contents.
" Booking " Transaction — Stockton — Not called after
the English town of that name — City of Windmills —
Episcopal Church ... ... ... ... ... 144
Day Thirty-Two — Far End of the Railway System —
Train stopped by Long Grass — Irrigation — "V"
flumes — Washing for Gold — Bramble Cultivation —
Bone Shaking Roads — Strong Vehicles — The Horses
. — Dexterous Drivers — Watering Places — Chinese
Camp — Rivers Stanislaus and Tuolumne — An in
genious Ferry — A Dry River-bed ... ... ... 149
Day Thirty-Three — An Early Dinner — 6,300 feet
above Sea-level — Snow — Crane Flat — A Summer
Residence — Driving through Melting Snow —
Tuolumne Grove of Big Trees — Approach to the
Yosemite Valley — Darkness Envelopes the Scene ... 158
Day Thirty-Four — Favourable Season for Waterfalls
— The Yosemite Fall — Geological Formation — The
Bridal VeU FaU— The Virgin's Tears Creek— Cloud's
ReslH-The South Dome, or " Goddess of the Valley"
— Beautiful Indian Names — El Capitan — The
Digger Indians — Trout Fishing — Wintering in the
Valley  163
Day Thibty-Five — Artists' Point — Inspiration Point
— Delightful Morning Views — Fort Neptune — Bears
and Rattlesnakes — Brilliant WUdfiowers ¦^- The
Snow Plant — Flowering Shrubs — Forest Trees —
Careless Campers causing Fires — Chowchilly Moun-

contents. xvh
tains — Clarke's Ranche — Thawing the Driver —
Chief Chickabon and the Ooldstring Indians ... 170
Day Thirty-Six— a Uuseful " find "—Honesty Pre
vails — Passing Bullock Team — Native Wines and
Brandies — Effects of Drought — A Farmer's Paradise
—Madera  176
Day Thirty-Seven — The Loop Tunnel — The Railway
crosses itself — Misguiding Guide-books — Los
Angeles, the City of the Angels — A Tropical Break
fast — Into the Desert — The Old Bed of the Ocean —
Meeting the Rising Sun — An Obligation Acknow
ledged — Few Cloudy Days in a Year ... ... 181
Day Thirty-Eight — The Second Oldest Town in North
America — Picturesque Mexicans — American Wor
ship of the Antique — Train Robberies — " Hands
up ! " — Only Twenty-five Males on Board our Train
— rA Scrimmage with the Redskins— The " boss "
Cactus — An Oasis — Prisoners of War  187
Day Thirty-Nine — Extirpation of the " Savages " —
A Town of the Pueblo Indians — Santa Fe, the City
of the Holy Faith — Blending of Ancient and Modern
— Adobe Buildings — Cathedral and Churches — Racy
Newspapers — Physical Effects of High Altitudes-
Example of Cosmopolitanism ... ... ... 192
. Day Forty — Trees once more — Cattle Grazing —
Greenish Grass— The Hot Springs of Las Vegas —
Populated Country— The Old Santa F^ Trail—

XVlll CONTENTS.
"Ships of the Desert" — An Emigrant Railway
Train — An Evening Thunderstorm — The Raton
Pass — In the Bowels of the Rocky Mountains ... 197
Day Foety-One — The Centennial State — Difference
between States and Territories — Lawyers in
Parliament — The State of Kansas — Arkansas
River — Horses and Cattle — Return to Civilization
— Wealthy Farmers -^ Intellectual Distinction of
Kansas — Hospitality to Visitors — A Sportsman's
Paradise  201
Day Forty-Two— Kansas City — Woods of Oak Trees
— The whole Railway System one huge Level Cros
sing — A Quick -grown City — Modern Sanitary
Arrangements — Train- Wrecking Reminiscences —
The James Brothers Gang — Twenty Years of
Immunity — American Juries loath to cause Hanging
— Judge Lynch — St. Jo — American Oddfellows —
The Knights of Pythias — Quincey — Books by Mr
G. J. Holyoake — An Atheist fed with Altar Offer
ings — An Appropriate Trade Mark — Another
occupier of Rostrums — Rev. Newman Hall — A
Prot^g^ of Mr Gladstone — Timidity in Handling
Free Trade— Boasted " Liberty " Exposed— Strikes 205'
Day FoETY-THEEE-:-Approach to Chicago — Elegant
Suburbs — Handsome Flagging — Splendid Shops —
Elements of a Metropolis — Pronunciation of Names
of Places — General Use of " Dummy " Tram-cars —
A Street numbered to over 4,000 — Lincoln Park —

CONTENTS. XIX
Waterworks — Turning a River Backwards — Seven
Parks — Fast Driving — A Paradise of Jehus ... 218"
Day Foety-Foue — The City Hall — Thirteen Bridges-
Boulevards — Good-bye to the United States — Fare
well Reflections — The American Women — No Girls
— The Dressy Ladies of New York — Benefits of the
Leven of Puritanism — The Resources of the Union
—Enormous arrivals of Population — No Apprentices
— Europe's Best Mechanics Absorbed^-Congenial
Conditions of a New Country and Consequent
Mechanic'aT Progress ... ... ... ... 224
Day Foety-Five — -Sunday at Niagara Falls — First
Impressions — The Thing Grows upon us — Christ
Church — Stirring Sermon by an Irishman ... ... 230'
Day Forty-Six — The Suspension Bridge — Sight-seeing
by Machinery — -Devices for Extorting Coin from
Visitors — Beauty of Surroundings — The American
Fall — Goat Islands and Satellites — The Horse Shoe
Fall— Best Position for View— The Rapids— The
Burning Spring — The Whirlpool — A Charnel House 231
Day Foety-Seven — Toronto — The Island — Bad Roads
— The University Students at Work — A Female Can
didate for " Honours "^-Torojito Globe B.ud Mail — ¦
The. Club— Dominion Politics — Zoological Col
lection...   ¦ ... 239'
Day Foety-Eight — The Queen's Birthday — Proper
Celebration — Loyal Holiday-makers — River St.

XX CONTENTS.
Lawrence — The Thousand Islands — Alexandra Bay
—Mr Pullman's Villa— Night on the River ... 243
Day Foety-Ninb — Shooting the Rapids — Indian
Pilot— Montreal— Windsor Hotel— The "Mountain," '
Mount Royal — The Victoria Tubular Bridge — A
Model City for Architectural Embellishments — The ,
Old French Stock — Notre Dame — A First Com
munion — Cathedral of St. Peter — Wfealth and Power
of Roman Catholicism in Canada — The Episcopal
Church — View of Montreal from the River — A
Lumber Raft — An Evening Hymn .. . ... ... 246
Day Fifty — Sunrise on the River ^Only one B — A
Fleet of Old Maritime Curiosities — Quebec — Cape
Diamond — The Citadel — French Canadians and their
Language — The Gates of the City — The King's
Bastion — The Governor-General's House — Grand
View — Jsland of Orleans — Plains of Abraham — -
Wolfe's Monument— The Falls of Montmorency ... 254
Day Fifty-One — On board the Circassian — Scenes
from " the Buoys " — Shipbuilding Operations —
Populous Banks of the River — White Porpoises —
Quarantine Station of Grosse Island — Miraculous,
Powers of Faith — The Shades of Evening — Capes
Tourment, Rouge, and Gribanne — Welcome Moon —
The Last Touch of Land, at Rimouski, for Mails and
Passengers ... ... ... ... ... ... 261
Day Fifty-Two — Last View of Both Shores — Entering O
the Gulf of St. Lawrence — First Encounter with the
Ice — Channel between Newfoundland and the Main-

CONTENTS. XxJ
land — Mysterious Coteries of Passengers— Whit-
Sunday Services — The Use of the Athenasian Creed
resented — Want of Tact in the Clergy^-Unreason-
ableness of the Objectors to the Use of the Prayer-
Book on board Ship ... ... ... ... _^^ 265-
Day Fifty-Theee — Among the Ice — The Packs
Sparkling with Phosphorus — A Sailing Ship carried
with the Ice — Grating; and Grinding along the
Steamer's Sides — Passing the Parisian — Care of the
Propeller— The Open Sea— The "Banks" of New
foundland, and " Banks " of Fog  , ... 270:
Day Fifty-Foue — First Iceberg — Treacherous Smaller
Pieces— Sea Sickness — ^Wonderful Specifics — The
Lady with the Cask of Pills — The Man whose Last
State was worse than his First — Cloudless Night — ¦
Confidence-inspiring Captain Smith — An Anxious
Look-out  273- .
Day Fifty-Five — Total Number of Icebergs seen —
Cooling Effect — Gloriouig Procession — Heligoland in
Ice — Indescribable Hues — Varied Forms — The Bass
Rock — Imaginary Animals- — A Cool Sofa for Her
cules — Cathedrals — A Farmhouse-:— Pilgrims from
the Paloeocry«tal Sea — The Ocean less Salt than
Usual— A Cool Farewell — Low Thermometer ... 276-
Day Fifty-Six— ^Favourable Conditions for Crossing
the Atlantic — Continuous Fair Wind — Full Sail —
Dry Decks  28L

xxu contents.
Day Fifty-Seven — Dancing and Games on Deck—
Amusements and Music in the Saloon — The Drill of
the Mulligan Guards— A Mysterious Donkey —
Excellent Clown  282
Day Fifty-Eight — " Circassian Spring Meeting " —
Grand Concert — An improvisitore — "Shan't we be
Sorry to leave the Circassian V ... ... ... 283
Day Fifty-Nine — Trinity Sunday — Land ! — Tory
Island Light  284
Day Sixty — Lough Foyle — Moville — Parting with
New-found Friends — Refreshing Greenness — Favour
able Impression upon Canadians — Dunluce Castle —
The Giant's Causeway — Favourable Hour and
Weather for Seeing the Coast — MuU. of Cantyre —
The Giant's Chimneys Fired upon by the Spanish
Armada — His Brandy Bottle and other Chattels —
Ratlilin Island, where Bruce contemplated the Spider
—Isle of Man— The Mersey Bar Once More ... 285

A. .SCAMPER THROUGH AMEHinA.

E R. E> j^s. T .A. .
Pa^e 41, line \,for Rhode Island read a useful site.
Page 9S. Thejirst paragraph should read .- — During the night we
passed over the second of the nine ridges of the Great Rocky
Mountain regions which we had to encounter, and at Creston were at
the dividing chain in the western half of the Continent; the waters from
the mountains here running in opposite directions — those to the west
turning ultimately south'Uiard and entering the Gulf of California
as the Colorado River, and those to the east emptying ihemsehes
finall-^ into the Gulf of Mexico from the w.ighty Mississippi. Some
writers assert that the eastward waters find their way into the Pacific,
and that this range is not the " divide," but this is not correct.
Page 279, last line, read palaeocrystal.

and tEe glimmering"gas jets and brigli't' flame of
the lighthouse were at last lost sight of When
fairly out at sea we were quickly in the arms of
Morpheus, ensconsed in the " berths " which
were to be our more or less delightful -couches
during the nights of the next week or more.
A very few hours of sleep satisfied me on
this Good Friday morning, for the consciousness
of speeding on towards the great Atlantic per-

A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.

DAY ONE.
In the first hour of the day, it being past mid
night, we left behind the lightship at the bar of
the river Mersey, being bound for New York on
board the good Inman steamship City of Rome.
Vexatious delays foUowing upon a needlessly
•early embarkation, insisted upon by the Com
pany owning the vessel, had caused my wife
and myself to be heartily thankful when the
vessel's moorings ofi" New Brighton were quitted,
and the glimmering gas jets and bright flame of
the lighthouse were at last lost sight of When
fairly out at sea we were quickly in the arms of
Morpheus, ensconsed in the "berths" which
werie to be our more or less delightful -couches
during the nights of the next week or more.
A very few hours of sleep satisfied me on
this Good Friday morning, for the consciousness
of speeding on towards the great Atlantic per-

2 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
vaded even my dreams, and prompted a rush
on deck with the first waking moments. The
crew were already busy lowering into the hold
the heaps of multifarious luggage which lum
bered the decks, the inextricable confusion
giving promise of the vexation of spirit that the
sorting-out was to occasion at the journey's end.
What a contrast to my last celebration of this
marked day of the Church's calendar, when
about the same hour of the morning I had come
on deck in the Black Sea and found myself
surrounded by a motley company of Orientals,
refugees from the earthquaked island of Chios,-
bound for the Danube in search of fresh fields
and pastures new !
I was called from my involuntary reverting ta
a year agone by the appearing ahead upon the
smooth sea of what appeared to be an island,
which as we approached proved to be the
rock of Tuscar, covered with turf and crowned
with its snow-white lighthouse. This is the
southeastemmost outpost of Ireland, and a few
miles further on we hailed the Saltees lightship,
which also tells the mariner how near he may
safely " hug " this corner of the Emerald Isle.
The wind was east, and it would be cold

DAY ONE. 3
enough in many parts of Great , Britain that
April morning, but going as we were with the
breeze, and the bright sun glinting upon the
surface of the water, it felt absolutely warm.
The biggest ship afloat, barring the Great
Eastern, steamed on at the rate of seventeen
knots an hour, with so little heaving or vibra
tion that writing with pen and ink was as easy
and steady a performance as at a desk in the
library at home.
At three o'clock we entered the beautiful
Cove of Cork, and, in full view of Queenstown
and its picturesque surroundings, dropped anchor
to await the mails. But there was business to
be done. Our cargo was not all on board, neither
was our complement of passengers yet achieved.
Tons of potatoes were quickly handed up from
craft alongside, and hundreds of Irish emigrants
stepped along a plank from the paddle-box of the
tender to join the passengers in our comfortable
steerage. Never was vessel built with such ample ac
commodation for all classes of those who travel
by water ; and her reputation by this her second
voyage had already sufl&ciently spread to attract
an overflowing company of crossers to the New

'4 A SCAMPER. THROUGH AMERICA.
World. Some good-natured jostling, amount
ing at times to rough horseplay, took place as
the new contingent crowded up the gangway ;
and some amusing, as well as affecting, leave-
takings took place. ,
Every man had his shillalagh, and the women
had good tangled heads of hair, innocent of any
hat or bonnet. Take them altogether they were
a jovial crew, and were in high spirits at setting
out to make a fresh start in life ; leaving old
Ireland and its troubles behind.
Being a close holiday in Cork we were honoured
with boatloads of visitors ; steamers and smaller
craft, gay with bunting, hovering around.
Before the tender left us a large traffic was
carried on in oranges, lemons, apples, and sweets,
the money being first passed down in a basket,
which was then returned laden with the quid
pro quo . This, however, over, the passengers
¦amused themselves by throwing money for . the
girls who had come off in the tender to scramble
•for, and this proved a much more remunerative
occupation for the buxom Irish lasses than the
more legitimate one of selling fruit ; for shillings
were showered down upon them in lavish pro
fusion. The women, both those who remained

DAY ONE. 5
and those who returned to the shore, were a
better sample than the men, being strong and
burly and more equal to the occasion than their
male companions.
At seven o'clock we'^passed Cape Clear and
saw the sun set over a still more westerly point
of land that loomed far away over our starboard
bow. A very auspicious farewell to land it w;as,
for the sky was clear and bright, and a bark in
full sail crossing the last streaks of sunlight on
the sea furnished a picture, which, with the dark
hills for a background, was one of singular beauty.
Hundreds of seagulls were drawn after us in the
deepening, twilight by the dehris of victuals
thrown over the ship's side, and by a young
lady, who, with a plate of bread, stood by the
taifrail and threw morsels into the waves, which
caused the hungry birds to"swoop in ones, twos,
and dozens to cleverly snap, or voraciously
scramble for, the tit-bits, which with marvellous
quickness of sight they espied.

DAY TWO.
With the wind blowing east-south-east, the-
weather bright and fine, and smooth sea, w^
sped on our course, which was now set due west.
At ten o'clock in the forenoon the log was cast
and indicated that we were going at a speed of
fifteen and a half knots per hour. (Six knots-
are equal to about seven statute miles.)
There are patent logs, which, being drawn in
the vessel's wake, register the , number of revo
lutions made by the instrument in its passage
through the water, and so the distance is recorded
with sufficient accuracy ; but in the present case-
the old-fashioned canvas bag and line were used
at stated intervals during the day. The bag
being thrown into the"" sea remains stationary ;„
while its attached string runs out from a reel
and a sand-glass is being run. Bits of coloured
bunting are knotted on the line, and according-

DAY two;

to which of these is reached by the time the
glass has marked its number of seconds the speed
can be calculated to a nicety. , The'realing-in of
the log is no easy task, and is only rendered
possible, without requiring an awkwardly heavy
rope to avoid breaking, by a contrivance which
causes the " bag" to be reversed and cease hold
ing the water, as soon as the check is applied to
the line. Watching this operation was a fa
vourite pastime.
At eight o'clock in the morning and at noon
the captain and officers took their " observa
tions" which proved exactly where the ship was,
and each mid^day the number of miles traversed
was posted in the saloon, and the position marked
upon a chart, an elegant duplicate ' of which
(upon the back of which was a printed list of the
passenger^) was in the possession of each of us.
In an absence of the sun the periodical records
¦of the log are an invaluable guide as to the
steamer's whereabouts.
, The propeller, or " screw," was revolving at the
rate of fifty- two per minute, so that each turn of
the four blades were driving us about fifty feet
further from old England's shores. Albeit things
were not as they should be (and would be pre-

§ A SCAMPEI^ through AMERICA.
sently) with our machinery department, and the
information that six boUer-makers and thirteen
engineers were working overtime below, threw
some light on the more than usually pervading
noises that from time to time emanated from the
cavernous regions of the mighty engines.
A mystery that had presented itself to us on
the landing-stage at Liverpool was now unra
velled. Kind friends who were seeing us off
were as green as ourselves as to the purpose of
hundreds of folding chairs which were being
embarked. No seats are provided" on deck and
each practical voyager was provided with a
lounge of his or her own. We being new to the
route had to hire at a fancy figure. Nothing
could be more delightful than reclining in a spot
sheltered from the wind, supplied with literature
to taste from the well-stocked library in the
saloon. It was interesting to watch the steerage pas--
sengers, who mostly wore, a happy and weU-to-;
do aspect, and who now showed the contents
of the bundles which each one had carried on
board, and put to use the brand-new tins and
kettles which had attracted our attention.
Smart shawls adorned the heads and shoulders'

DAY TWO.

of the " gentler" sex (in many cases enveloping
an infant of the " muling and puking" period)
and potations of tea and something more potent
were oftentimes partaken of from the hardware
pots. There were cornets and accordians ; and
some of the people had good voices, singing
sweetly in parts such melodies as " Sweet Belle
Mahone. " Among the men games of chance were
very popular, and the wonderful " hands" that
were turned up at Napoleon by fihgerers of the
dirty packs of cards were the amazement of our-
young gentlemen who knew the game. One,
player had the ace of trumps three times run
ning, and then ace, king, queen, knave and ten
— -which of course got " nap." No fault was
found, so it is to be presumed the game was
genuine — and what interest could those charac
ters .have in swindling each other, and risk
spoiling the pastime for the remainder of the
voyage 1 We of the upper-deck were able to
witness these lively doings by leaning over the
rail,- the lower-deck being so arranged that the
less luxurious travellers had an open-air pro
menade the full length of each side of. the
ship.

DAY THEEE.
Easter Sunday morning broke fresh and fine,
with a fair breeze still from east-south-east, the
course being west by south. The wind, increas
ing, gave rise to considerable motion of the
vessel, which, at an early hour, placed several
of our feUow-voyagers hors de combat. We
spanked away at a fine rate, the sails being all
set; not much of an assistance to a large steamer,
but acting as a " steadyer," At ten a.m. the
log showed that we were going sixteen and a
half knots per hour, and at noon observations
proved that our big floating hotel had gone over
three hundred and ninety-five mUes in the
twenty-four hours. The course now set would
take us about six hours south of the summer
outward track, this detour being usual at this
time of year in order to avoid the icebergs and

DAY THREE. 11
fields of ice further north, which had been
dangerously prevalent this Spring.
A Bishop, who was on board, administered
Holy Communion at seven o'clock. He had
on Saturday improvised an amateur choir, which
had practised at the organ in the saloon. At
half-past ten o'clock morning service was held
in the Grand Saloon, at which most of the
cabin passengers assembled, and such of the
Protestants from the steerage who cared to avail
themselves of the invitation to attend. , The
officiating Bishop preached an excellent sermon,
and what we saw of him tended to improve our
opinion of that dignitary of the Church — ^the
Colonial Bishop. He was dutifully all there,
"when refection bell did call," his daily walk
amongst us keeping up that reputation which
has been from time immemorial an attribute of
his cloth, resulting in the popular conviction of
aU ages that finds expression in, the line: " Who
lives a good live is sure to live weU." A newly-
made acquaintance expressed pleasure at seeing
a Roman Catholic priest taking a modest place
and singing heartily at our Easter Matins. At
one of his services in the steerage we attended,
and were edified by the devotion and earnestness

12 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
of the priest and his charge. Needless to say,
our upper-crust congregation were conspicuous.
by their absence. I must say that Sunday was
decently observed throughout the vessel.
Members of the male sex, who often at home
miss going to church, and when they do go do
not ¦ deem it de rigueur to attire themselves in
orthodox church-going garb, were here seen
decorously clad in suits of broadcloth, and there
were ladies ready with their favourite hymns
when asked by the Bishop to name them, who
perhaps had not had any favourite hymns,
excepting those spelt h-i-m, for many years.
The number and variety of musical instru
ments in the ship was something extraordinary.'
From the organ and the grand piano in the
drawing-room, to the concertina and bones on
the lower deck, every noise-making machine that
ever was invented appeared to be in constant
operation. Some tunes and words which did.
not properly appertain to the Sabbath were;
heard occasionally, but " Moody and Sankey "
predominated, varied by a kind of half-profane,-,
half-treasonable, ditty by the Irish, the verses,
ending with such sentiments as these : " God,

DAY THEEE. 13
save ould Oireland ! " and " Oireland shall be
free ! "
The 1,400 steerage passengers were mostly
English and Irish, the German and Scandinavian
contingent of the week having gone by an extra
Inman steamer, leaving Liverpool on the same
day, A detachment of the Salvation Army was
amongst our lot, being sent over to join a
previous company who were reported to be
waging a victorious campaign amongst the
benighted Yankees — a, graceful return forthe good
worked in our islands by the two disinterested
American evangelists who had twice come over
to help us.
Harp, sacbut, psaltery, dulcimer, and all kinds
of music were quickly hushed by a sudden
shifting and freshening of the wind, which in an
incredibly short space of time blew a stiff gale
from the south-west, accompanied by a tre
mendous sea, calling forcibly to our minds the
hymn of childhood :
When lo ! a storm began to rise.
The wind blew loud and strong ;
It blew the clouds across the skies.
And roll'd the waves along !
The huge vessel behaved admirably, but about

14 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
six o'clock the captain slowed the engines and
slightly altered her course, head to wind, to
lessen the heavy roUing. At this time the
terrible Atlantic billows were making a clean
breach over the ship, and everything that had
not been made fast was either washed away or
set careering about the decks in a manner which
caused strange weird sounds to be heard in the
<3abins below, that were anything but reassuring.
Whilst five of the crew were engaged in fixing
the mast-head light, a sea, heavier than usual,
struck the forecastle, throwing the whole of
them down amongst the -winches on the fore-
deck. They had a narrow escape from going
overboard, and the doctor, who was called away
from dinner to attend to their injuries, reported
that one had his ribs broken, another his knee
cap broken and leg badly wounded, and the
others less seriously hurt. This same wave
dashed high over the pilot-bridge, far above the
heads of the officers in charge, giving them a
thorough drenching.
A dreary evening gave place to a bed-time
fraught with gloom and disiiial forebodings, but
at midnight we were blessed with a slightly
improved state of the weather, and in the small

DAY THREE. 15
hours the engine were once more set away at
full speed, the gyrations of the vessel and the
accompanying noises continuing, however, to bar
the possibility of any but the most fitful and
unrefreshing slumbers.

DAY FOUR.
The next morning there was still a stiff breeze,
now blowing from south-south-west, but the sea
had considerably subsided.
Two more of our sailors had during the night
been added to the five in the infirmary, but it
was some satisfaction to learn that they were all
doing well, and in no immediate danger, although
it afterwards turned out that one of them was
crippled for life.
It was surprising and pleasing to see the large
proportion of passengers that turned up looking
fresh and well to an early breakfast, and to hear
that those who did not put in an appearance
were enjoying fair health and petits dejeuners in
the sanctity of their state-rooms.
The forenoon haul of the log gave a speed of
fourteen and a half knots, and at noon our day's
progress was noted as two hundred and eighteen

DAY FOUR. 17
mUes only, so that our chance (if ever it existed)
of making the quickest passage on record was
" dished " for this journey.

DAY FIVE.
A change of wind ; now blowing fresh from:
the north with bright sunshine, and smooth sea.
The fair day's run of three hundred and forty-six
miles was posted up.
In the early morning we passed a Cunard
boat, bound from Boston to Liverpool, and over
hauled a little French barque which run up the
tricolour and saluted us by dipping it three times,
a courtesy to which our British ensign duly
replied. An amusing story was told in the smoking
room after breakfast. The emigrants from the
Distressful Country, although provided for in a
manner that might almost be termed luxurious,
were frequently giving vent to that habit of
grumbling, without the exercise of which exist
ence would seem to be intolerable to them. A
huge loaf of bread, about six times the size of an
ordinary penny roll, was served to each man^

DAY FIVE. 19'
woman, and child every morning, and no stint
was placed upon them if they choose to ask for
more, after consuming the first dole. One man,
travelling by an Inman liner, requested to see
the captain, and upon being shown on to the
quarter-deck, had laid forth his grievance, which
was that the breakfast allowance of bread was
insufficient. The captain called for one of the
rolls, and asked the complainant if that was not
enough for any man's meal. Pat replied " I
could eat half-a-dozen of 'em." " Then, by Jove,"^
said the captain, " you shall !" and ordering up '
other five the Irishman was cured from future
careless grumbling by havii^g to exercise his
powers of mastication and deglutition to a pain
ful degree, and to experience a distension of the
diaphragm the reverse of pleasant. It is but
fair to state that he was allowed a drop of " the
craythur" to wash down his unexpected repast.
Our good skipper, Captain Kennedy, had been
upwards of four hundred times across "the
pond," and was considered one of the ablest
navigators of the age, having had command of
the Great Eastern, and been twice employed in
that capacity by the Government when she was-
under charter to them. D

DAY SIX.
The course was liow shaped in a more
southerly direction, or about west-south-west,
and there being a moderate wind from north
west a considerable rolling was experienced.
Although cloudy, rain kept off, but a lowering
temperature caused overcoats and wraps to be
brought into requisition.
I paid my first visit to the barber's shop. The
perruquier was a negro, who had his parti
coloured pole protruded over his door on the
main-deck. This worthy jnust either have paid
a high rent or have been making a handsome
thing of it, for his charge, for shaving a saloon
passenger was two shillings, or he would con
tract for a daily scrape during the voyage, long
or short, for twelve shillings ! This was the
dearest piece of harherism. 1 had had experience
of. It beat a case in Paris where I paid eight
francs for hair - cutting, shampooing, and
trimmings.

DAY SIX. 21
During the forenoon we passed a schooner
going east and a barque bound west. They
hoisted their distinguishing flags, so that upon
our arrival at New York they would be reported
as having been " spoken " and the latitude and
longitude stated, and all concerned in their
welfare would learn ' the particulars from the
published reports.
In the evening I saw a gentleman as near
coming to his death as he could be without
being killed. Instead of taking the convenient
staircase leading direct from the smoking-room
to our berths we preferred a breath of fresh air,
and walked along the weather side of the upper
deck towards the saloon companion. We found
the door closed (on account of the spray the lee-
door only had been left open), and my friend
remarked "We have got to the wrongdoer,"
,and before I could stop him turned the handle
of the next door and stepped in. He was
instantly out again with his hand to his fore
head, gasping, " Oh, my God, what a sight ! "
I concluded that he had seen the effects of some
horrible accident or suicide. When he recovered
his self-possession he led me to view the cause
of his perturbation. A narrow iron shelf within,

22 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA^
upon which he had placed his foot, was all that
had kept him from being precipitated to the
bottom of the ship ! Another step, which in
the darkness he had partially made, and all
would have been over. Needless to say that a
remedy was at once applied to an oversight that
allowed a doorway adjacent to the saloon entrance
to remain on the latch as a trap to almost certain
destruction. The brass handle was taken off
and the iron door (which in reality was only
intended for use in case of repairs) was barred
up.

DAY SEVEN.
Having proceeded as far to the southward as
was necessary, the vessel's head now pointed
direct to New York, and with a gentle southerly
.breeze we slipped through the water at the
splendid rate of sixteen and a half knots an hour.
A slight stoppage during the night, however,
doomed to disappointment the anticipation of a
very big twenty -four hours progress. An in
crease in the number of revolutions of the pro
peller to fifty-four per minute, and there being
so much less weight to drive through the water
owing to the quantity of coal that had been
consumed, still led to a high estimate of the run.
Ouriosity was set at rest by the announcement
of three hundred and fifty-two miles. With a
smooth oily sea we experienced our first really
rainy weather.
Steamers and sailing vessels of all sizes were
now so frequently sighted that we ceased to
take notice of their coming and going in all
directions.

DAY EIGHT.
We witnessed boat drill this morning. Al
though it was fine weather, the celerity with
which each boat's crew got their craft ready and
swung out on the davits, gave some idea of the
readiness with which it could' be done in case of
abandoning the ship. We had eyed these boats
daily with mixed feelings. To see them with
covers off and fully equipped with kegs of water,
provisions, and blankets, was to some extent
reassuring, but their constant readiness was a
continual reminder that some day it might be
necessary for us to trust ourselves to their frail
protection. During the storm the previous Sunday we
had been struck with the seeming impossibility
of launching a boat into such a sea, or of it being
able to live for a moment in it ; and yet we know
that vesssls have been quitted in very heavy

DAY EIGHT. 25
weather, and that some of their boats have
weathered tremendous storms.
The slender barks in which foolhardy adven
turers have crossed the Atlantic must surely at
times have been borne on the crests of such
mighty mountains of water as we gazed upon,
and yet they have come safely to land !
No descripl;.ion or painting has ever conveyed
to my brain an adequate conception of the
intense vitality of even a minor storm at sea.
That Easter Sunday tempest seemed calculated
to blow the very eyebrows off one's face. And
yet the ship was not dismasted, nor lost a single
spar or rope-yarn ; and the little French barque
we had seen had evidently weathered the storm
without a stick or a cord being damaged !
In the evening we had a grand entertainment
in the drawing-room in aid of the funds of the
Liverpool Sailors' Orphan Institution. Some
excellent vocal aild instrumental music was dis
coursed, and a collection of over sixteen pounds.
was taken. The Sunday's collections for the
same object had amounted to fifteen pounds, so.
that, altogether, the Institution did pretty well
out of the voyage. The liberality of the pas
sengers did not end here, for a subscription

26 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
towards the wounded sailors on board realized
fifteen pounds, in addition to a halfpenny sub
scription worthily initiated and responded to in
the steerage.

DAY NINE.
The three hundred and eighty-seven miles
accomplished up to noon left two hundred and
eighteen miles to be traversed to Sandy Hook
(eighteen miles from New York town).
At one o'clock we took a pilot on board from
cutter number twenty-one. There was con
siderable interest attached, to this number, and
all eyes and glasses had been directed to catch
the first glimpse of it on the sail of the pilot-
boat. A sweepstakes had been got up amongst
some of the passengers, the fortunate holder of
"21" receiving the sum of £12. There was a
good deal of innocent " speculation " during the
voyage, nothing being too trifling to make a bet
upon, or upon which to base a " sweep," the
number of miles run each day being a favourite
medium of negotiation.
Being near to the close of our passage across

28 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
the Western Ocean, notes were compared as to
the comforts experienced in crossing, and it was
instructive to ascertain the impressions of those
who had made many Atlantic voyages ; and
most of the people in the saloon had done so.
Old stagers declared that, even at the risk of
having to spend a day longer on the sea, they
would prefer a passage in the City of Rome to
crossing in any other vessel afloat. Certainly
for our own part (and here reference to the diary
of my wife bears me out) the most grateful
feelings remain for the courteous attentions of
the kind officers, the genial doctor, and the
assiduous stewards and stewardesses on board.
From the splendid system of electric lighting
throughout the ship, to the pneumatic bells,
affording communication between every apart
ment, nothing on shore could be more complete
than the conveniences and modern luxuries of
this latest noble addition to one of the great
ocean fleets of the world.

DAY TEN.
At four o'clock in the morning we passed
Sandy Hook, and arrived at the quarantine-
station about seven. It was truly splendid
weather, and a bright sun shining through a
crisp atmosphere gave a very cheery introduc
tion to the New World. There was not a cloud
or suspicion of haze to mar the brilliancy of the
April morning.
The tender came alongside and took away the
mails, and also our telegrams for the shore. An
interesting sight was that heap of mail-bags
brought up from the hold ; tons and tons of them,
labelled right through, " Liverpool to San
Francisco," and so on.
We had for once to enter into intricate finan
cial transactions on a Sunday morning, for- it
became necessary to change our English money
into the almighty dollar and its aliquot parts-

so A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
and multiples. Much amusement as well as
anxiety transpired over this business. One
very cautious young man wrapped up his newly-
acquired dirty bits of paper currency in cream-
laid notepaper, with such endorsements as
¦" This is a four-dollar bill, and I must reckon it
•equal to sixteen shillings," " Quarter dollar or
twenty-five cents, say equal to a shilling." The
fumbled worn-out greenbacks were a sorry ex
change for our bright British sovereign, and
reminded one of the currency disabilities of such
countries as Russia and Italy, a scandal that the
advancing prosperity of the United States will
doubtless shortly cause to be overcome by the
universal use ^ of their handsome metallic
medium. I will not essay the pen pourtrayal of the
glories of New York harbour, the aspect of Fort
Hamilton, and the striking appearance of the
great city with its suburbs of Brooklyn and New
Jersey. The yet unfinished suspension bridge
destined to connect the two fixst-mentioned was
a graceful figure in the picture, which was en
livened by the constantly plying huge steam
ferry boats.
The delay in the discharging and examination

DAY TEN. 31
of our luggage was very distressing. It was-
nine o'clock Avhen we stepped on shore, and
having already had breakfast, we hoped soon tO'
get to our quarters and thence to church ; but
it was noon before we were released, tired and
vexed at the first experience qf the " freedom"'
of these glorious States.
When wUl our boasted civilization so advance-
as to enable the world to do without those relics -
of the barbarous ages — Custom Houses ! We^
were inclined to think that the rigid examina
tion was aU a farce, aiid only useful inasmuch as
it gave an army of officers a pretext for drawing
their salaries ; but the " searchers" showed their
raison d'etre this morning at any rate, for one
gentleman, had to pay three pounds for duty upon
five hundred cigars which had already paid duty
on importation from Havanna into England, and
another was mulcted in the amount of seventeen
pounds for a breechloader worth half the money,.
a sum which he preferred to pay rather than
have the gun impounded, as he was bound on a
shooting expedition north of Lake Winnipeg.
Both of these payments, we were afterwards told,
might have been avoided by a httle contrivance.
However, they serve to point the vexatious-

32 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
operation of protectionist imposts. The duties
are not charged to foreigners only, for an Ameri-.
can gentleman had to pay eleven pounds upon
goods worth about five pounds in Europe.
The first impressions as we walked towards
the street-cars — as the tramways are termed —
were decidedly unfavourable. Crude telegraph
poles disfigured every street, and were partic
ularly hideous in their clustering at the corners;
dingy lamp-posts that would have disgraced the
smallest English town blessed with gasworks were
stuck about at every conceivable angle ; and pawn
brokers' balls hung significantly over shops, the
rottenness of whose wooden fajades was ill-
concealed by daubings of red, blue, and green
pigment. It was a strange sensation ; the sur
roundings imbuing one with all the feelings of
being in a foreign land, and the signboards being
so incongruously English and homely. The
carriage road was almost impassable for pedes
trians, and the sidewalks (Anglice, footpaths)
were simply execrable ; pitfaUs, dust, and dirt,
¦everywhere. As we became familiar with the better parts
of the city these drawbacks were altered in
degree only — some streets were better and some

DAY TEN. 33
worse. Twice in "stages," as the omnibuses are
called, were we stuck fast in holes in the streets
and had to get out and walk.
The services of street-cars are excellent, their
frequent running, and the good connexion of the
different lines making street travelling very
easy. The elevated railroad (although a great
eyesore) over the tramways and pavements,
supplies to some extent the relief to the traffic
on the level afforded in London by the under
ground railway.
The absence (or rather infrequency) of marks
denoting the -names of the different thoroughfares
is a source of inconvenience to a stranger, who
is reduced to the necessity of interrogating the
police, a body who, to say the least of it, are not
so ready to bear with the inquisitiveness of
travellers as are their brethren of the English
metropolis. The care bestowed by the inhabitants upon
their personal attractions was evidenced by the
numerous establishments for the sale of face-
powder and enamels, ' and by the frequency of
such announcements as " Madame So-and-so,
Finger nails beautified"
The Fifth Avenue Hotel we found pretty

34 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA. ,
much what we expected : a magnificent mixture
of splendour and coarseness. The marble unim
peachable ; but the unmentionable result of the
filthy national habit rendering it in places re
pulsive and slippery ; the cuisine excellent, but
the officials and waiters brusque, and even rude.
The want of the most ordinary politeness
everywhere was most marked, but we soon be
came accustomed to it and came to the charitable
conclusion that it is the want of time that drives
the Yankees to omit such supererogatory words
as "please " and " thank you," " sir " and
" madam." There is no standing still ; meals-
are bolted as though to-morrow were to be
the Judgment Day ; and all things are done
in a flash-of-greased-lightning style that is at
first very wearing. But human nature quickly
adapts itself to circumstances, and before many.
hours were over we were hurrying along with
the stream, and the biggest boor in the black
country rnight be considered a perfect Beau
Brummell compared with the bustling, bump
tious Yahoos we were in danger of becoming
in sympathy with our surroundings.
On this, our first evening upon the continent
of the Western Hemisphere, we were fortunate

DAY TEN. 35
enough to witness one of the most beautiful dis
plays of the aurora borealis that has ever been
recorded outside of the Arctic Circle.

DAY ELEVEN.
We drove through Central Park, a breathing-
space in every way worthy of the Empire City
which encircles it. Returning seaward we
found Broadway not such a broad way as its
name and reputation justified us in expecting.
In width and length it is not unlike Oxford-
street. Some of the buildings are much hand
somer than the majority of those in the great
London thoroughfare, and others are paltry and
altogether unworthy of the vicinity. , Flagstaffs
adorn many of the edifices, and their huge
banners, bearing in many instances the name of
the owner of the emporium or " store," floated
out upon the breeze. The wind blowing across
the line of the street caused the bunting to
spread nearly from roof to roof, which had a
pleasing effect as the flags spread out against the
background of blue sky.

DAY ELEVEN. 37
Everything was very dear. The' famous sign
of " Delmonico's " struck our eye, and at a bar
inferior to that of the Criterion or Gaiety at
home a generous friend had to pay ninety cents
for two thimblesful of brandy and a " split
soda." The charges at the hotels are large, but not
out of the way if the " guest," as he is designated,
partakes fully of all the meats to which he is
entitled. But the full day has to be paid for, no
matter how poor the appetite, or how many
meals may be partaken of out of the house. The
slightest item indulged in beyond the recognised
service is rigidly charged for. For instance, if
you are so confiding as to run the risk of theft
by putting your shoes outside of your bedroom
door to be cleaned, and you should be so fortu
nate as to get them back again, a charge of ten
cents appears in your biU. That is, if you get a
bUl, a document which the mere asking-for
brings down upon you the scornful and pitiful
smile of the mercenaries of tHe cash-office.
The prices for hire of carriages are almost pro
hibitory to possessors of English incomes ; two
dollars from steamboat to hotel, and more than
that from' hotel to depot (railway station), being

38 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
the very least if you have the luggage necessary
for a moderate American tour. Ten shillings is-
extorted for a distance which a London cabby
would blush to ask half-a-crown for. There
is another mode of getting your baggage conveyed
(the word luggage is unused in America) and
that is by the " express," an institution which
takes in hand your packages, giving you a brass
" check " for each, in exchange for which you
recover your belongings at the baggage-office at.
the depot. This system is absolutely necessary
if your " pieces " are very large and numerous,
but the cost of equal to a shilling for each
article makes it come as expensive as taking
the "hack" (never called a cab.) In the
matter of expedition the waggons of the baggage-
express do their work in a fairly satisfactory
manner, generally arriving at the desired point
as quickly as yourselves ; but in some cases of
arrival we found the delays vexatious, having
had to wait for more than an hour before the
longed-for toUet, after a lengthy journey, could
be accomplished.
I had a look into the Hoffman House Hotel,
which boasts the finest drinking-bar in the world,
where the pr9prietor (the notorious Fiske, who

DAY ELEVEN.' 39
got off SO easily with' a brief incarceration for
shooting Mr. Seward on the staircase of the Fifth
Avenue Hotel), had recently paid two* thousand
pounds for a handsome oil painting, the subject
of 'which' was so " classic " that I dare not
describe it here. ' No expense had been spared
to make the place attractive ; not only splendour,
but chasteness and quiet elegance being every
where evident in the " fixings."
Most of the waiters at the hotels and the
porters and guards of- the rail roads (two
w^ords, "R. R." for short, and never rail
ways) were Irish, or of Irish descent, the
brogue of the latter being as marked wherever
we went as that of the latest Hibernian arrival.
Upon the whole their want of civility was made
up for by their smartness and intelligence.
The gentle aspiration of the first syllable of
¦" hotel" is one of the few improvements which
our language has sustained by acclimatization
across the Atlantic ; it has been rendered really
¦a pretty sounding word as compared with a
rendering of it obtaining in some parts of Britain.
The vestibules of these palatial buildings are
crowded by sitting and moving groups of male
persons in an everlasting buzz of conversation, or

40 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
" chewing " or smoking for ever. We cogitated
as to whether these were all guests and their
callers, and as to the social status of the wearers
of the shiny hats and respectable attire. Our
perplexity was removed, as to at least one of
these loungers, when we saw an immense swell
with an extra polish on his boots, an extra curl
to his moustache,, and puffing away at a fragrant
Havanna. The face was familiar; where had we
seen it ? It was Dick, the smoke-room steward
of our ship ! Only two nights kgo we had sent
the hat round and presented poor hard-working
unshaven Richard with a nice little sum, and
to-day he rubs shoulders with us, his distinguS
air commanding more attention from the minions
of the establishment than do the passengers who
but yesterday were waited upon by the fellow-
guest of to-day.
In Madison Square is a gigantic bronze repre
sentation of a female hand and arm, holding a
brazen torch. This singular erection is protected
around the elbow, where it emerges from the
¦ earth, by a chdlet of wood. The arm is larg6
enough to contain a spiral staircase, which will
one day be placed within it, for this work of art
is part of a lighthouse in course of formation for

DAY ELEVEN. 41
Rhode Island, where it wiU. stand in the novel
form of a huge statue of Liberty, the home of the
lighthouse-keepers being in the body of the
figure instead of in the ordinary prosaic pillar of
a light-tower, and the lantern will be held aloft
by the colossal hand, in place of the bronze
presentment of flame now issuing from the
torch. This noble work is a graceful present to
Columbia from her sister republic of Gaul.
At four o'clock in the afternoon we " went
on board the cars " (we are now getting into the
way of using a few of the more indispensable
Americanisms) at Forty-second Street Depot,
the terminus of the New York Central Railroad,
en route for Boston. All the cars are of one
class, excepting that you can have a seat in a
parlour car by paying, in this case, a dollar
extra. We tried the ordinary carriage on this
occasion and found our first railway travelling
in America very satisfactory, the fare being lower
for the distance than at home, and the speed and
comfort at least as good. We did the two
hundred and thirty-six miles in six and a half
hours, without changing seats.
It may not be out of place to give a descrip
tion of the car, for, although the details may be

42 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
familiar to many readers, still it is possible that'
many such little matters are often left unde-
scribed, on account of writers and verbal nar
rators deeming them too well-known to need
telling about. An instance of the desirability
of minute description is at hand in the wrong
impression conveyed of transatlantic railways
by the stage adaptation of Jules Verne's
" Round the World in Eighty Days," which
shows an attack of Indians upon a train, the
engine of which is American, but the vehicles,
English railway carriages of various " classes,"
instead of the proper long "silver palace " cars,
and passenger, baggage, mail and express cars
of the country. The car is entered from each
end, and has an aisle down the centre, on either
side of which is a score of seats, each holding
two persons. The velvet-cushioned backs of the
seats are reversible, but most of the passengers
sit facing the engine. If your party should be
three or four, it is very convenient to be able to
"fix" the "section'' so as to travel vis-a-vis;
on the other hand, if there are only two of you,
there is quite as much privacy as in the Old
World compartment system, and at the same
time the convenience of being able to walk up

DAY ELEVEN. 43
and down the whole length of the train. Every
car is fitted with a stove, from which pipes are
carried under all the seats. This arrangement,
'together with the double windows (which it is
treason to open), renders the atmosphere uncom
fortably warm, as is the case in aU the rooms
and apartments. A boy goes round every few
minutes with a tin of iced water and glasses,
each passenger partaking as he fancies.
The sallow complexions of the people being as
common to them as their habits of hurried eat
ing, breathing stifling air, and imbibing cold
liquids, it is possible that these may stand in the
relation of effect and causes.
The aspect of the district passed through was
novel and interesting, a surprising feature being
the yet utter absence of foliage from the trees,
as before we left England the leaves there were
fully out. The advertising enterprise of the go-
ahead inhabitants has caused landscapes to be
blurred by huge letters being painted upon rocks
and trees, such inscriptions as "' Try Blair's
Cough Mixture : it never fails," being found alike
by railway side, on tops of mountains, and at
bottoms of valleys. A monstre hoarding erected
well within sight of the line recorded that

44 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
" Exactly twelve mUes from this spot stands the
Emporium of the celebrated St. Jacob's Oil, at
999, Broadway, New York." This oil, " Sozo-
dont," and a certain stove polish kept us com
pany throughout the entire continent.

DAY TWELVE.
We broke fast betimes at our hotel, the-
Brunswick House, at Boston. The excellent
negro waiters were quite a contrast to the New
York attendants. The breakfast is a, most im
portant meal here, and is partaken of with much
zest. It commences at seven, and the early
start gives an enhanced value to the day. Two
or ' three oranges preface the repast, then a
draught of the iced water which stands at your
elbow throughout every meal. This is followed
by oatmeal mush (porridge), hominy, cracked
wheat, buckwheat cakes, an immense choice of
boUed, fried, and broUed fish and flesh, vege
tables in every form, and eggs — the latter
prepared in a variety of ways, described in the
menu as " broUed, dropped, fried, scrambled ;
and omelets, plain, with onions, parsley, cheese,
ham, kidneys, or jelly." Plain boiled eggs are

46 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
not eaten direct from the shell, but three or four
are broken by the waiter into a tumbler, and
stirring the yolks and whites together, with
pepper, salt, &c. to taste, you then proceed in
the usual manner with a- spoon.
Thus fortified, we sallied forth to "do " the
city of Boston, a delightful task, the associations
connected with the place, and its splendid, clean,
wide thoroughfares, making it peculiarly inter
esting and enjoyable. It is the Edinburgh of
the States. Bookshops abound, and by far a
larger quantity of books are sold in proportion
to population than in any other American city.
Harvard University is at Cambridge, three
miles out, ahd we ireadUy reached it by the tram
way, and went through the spacious grounds
and buUdings, including a magnificent memorial
hall erected to the memory of students who feU
in the CivU War ; Saunders Theatre, &c.
Immense enterprise is being shown in develop
ing the harbour of Boston and adding to its
numerous docks, the New York and Erie RaU
road Company having just completed a hand
some dock; grain elevator, and warehouses,
where four of the largest ocean steamers can be
loaded or discharged at one time with a minimum

DAY TWELVE. 47
of twenty -three feet depth of water at low tide.
The "freight cars," or goods trucks, come right-
across country from the far West, and we saw
some laden with provisions, such as bacon, lard,
&;c., that had come over two thousand miles.
When we were informed that only a fraction
over twenty per cent, of the avaUable producing
ground of the great continent had yet been cul
tivated, the future of the exporting cities, as-
raUways every month penetrated farther afield,
appeared to be Ulimitable. We afterwards had
ample . opportunity of forming our own estimate
of the productiveness of much of the "virgin"
land, forming the estimated four-fifths that our
Boston friends relied upon ; and also saw and
heard much of worn-out soil, which a quarter of
a century of incessant " cropping " had rendered
as expensive to cultivate as farms in the British
Islands. The pride which the Bostonians justly take in
their city is showii by their lavish expenditure
upon the public buildings, such edifices as the
post office and custom house being perfect
masterpieces of architecture. The latter is sur
rounded by granite columns, each in one piece of
forty tons weight.

48 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
We ascended by the " elevator," as the lift or
hoist is invariably termed (an indispensable
adjunct to every American building of any pre
tensions) to the roof of the palatial offices of the
Equitable Insurance Association, and obtained
from a height of a hundred and eighty feet a
complete panorama of the place ; the monument
on Bunker's HUl, and that on the Common to
the citizens who fell in the war with the South,
being conspicuous.
The electric light and telephone we found in
much more general use than at home; in fact a
merchant told us that without the telephone it
would now be impossible to carry on the business
of the day. Not only for the immediate neigh
bourhood is it "laid on" but the voices of
-communicators are discernible giving orders for
goods from vUlages forty mUes away.
Instancing the intellectual tastes of the people
I may mention the proprietor of a telescope of
two hundred diameters, who, in the open street,
drove a roaring trade by exhibiting the spots on
the sun by day, and the planet Jupiter in the
•evening.

DAY THIRTEEN.
We proceeded to Albany via the celebrated
Hoosic tunnel route : two hundred, miles in seven
hours. The tunnel itself is four and three
quarters miles in length, the longest in the world
after those of Mont Cenis and St. Gothard — so
the Americans say.
At Greenfield station I applied at the refresh
ment stall for a glass of beer, but the proprietor
said that he was not aUowed to dispense
intoxicants, and that it was with difficulty that
he could get the authorities to let him sell cigars!
This was a new phase to us of American affairs.
A glass of cold rich mUk, however, proved an
excellent substitute for the coveted "laager."
The Delavan Hotel at Albany proved to be of
the traditional Brother Jonathan type, and was
just the hotel that, descriptions in books had led
us -fco expect to find. Frequently among the

50 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
labyrinth of corridors a note appeared with an
index finger directing "to the fire-escape."
Prompted by curiosity, and possibly by some
idea that it might be useful to know the way, we
traced out the route untU we came to a locked
door, so that had the house been in flames we
should probably have had more experience of the
"fire" than of the " escape."
On the highest point in the city stands the
new Capitol, a splendid buUding of Maine granite,
in the style of the Renaissance — ^the handsomest
and largest edifice in the States, next to the
Federal Capitol at Washington.
The only one of fifty-four churches we
visited was the Cathedral of the Immaculate
Conception, and we were much impressed with
its old world appearance, which it owes to the
rich stained-glass windows, shedding their "dim
religious light " upon the vast space capable of
accommodating over four thousand worshippers.

DAY FOURTEEN.
Embarking on board one of the magnificent
Hudson river steamboats we quickly passed down
stream, through the pretty but somewhat
monotonous scenery, as far as the town of Hudson.
After that the panorama was quite equal to the
scenery of the Rhine, and in one part almost as
grand as the Iron Gate of the Danube. This
is saying a very great deal, but it is the honest
opinion of one by no means prejudiced in favour of
anything American', and who has traversed the,
course of all three rivers under circumstances
favourable for comparing them. The romantic
associations of the grand German river aie
wanting in the New World stream, but points
•upon the banks of the latter are rich in memories
of thrilling interest, and the absence of " ruins "
and little hovels of "castles" is rather in its
favour than otherwise. E

52 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
In the evening in New York I looked into one
of the bUliard halls of the country. It was well -
lighted and ventUated, and filled with an orderly
company. There were eighteen tables, chiefly
without pockets, upon which was being played
the " canon " game with four huge balls and
ponderous cues. A few of the tables had six
pockets, the pockets being much larger and the
tables much smaller than English ones. These
were used exclusively for " pyramids " and the
game was very quickly over. The charge was ten
pents per game, and for biUiards by time one
cent per minute. A novel and useful mode of
counting was in vogue which might be adopted
with much convenience where a marker is not
always available. A brass wire suspended
lengthways above the table had strung upon it
counters that were easily separable upon being
touched with the side of the cue. One half of
the string was devoted to white markers, the
fifth and tenth being black of larger sizes ; the
other half being black discs with fifth and tenth
of white.
The Fifth Aveiiue Hotel was so fuU of guests
that beds were laid upon the floors of the drawing
and reception rooms, so that we were fortunate

DAY FOURTEEN. 53
in having rooms secured. Having occasion
to procure a bottle of brandy to complete the
equipment of our medical chest for our journey
to the Far West, the price was six dollars —
about five-and-twenty shillings — and we were
consoled with the assurance that it was " the
very best " ; and so it ought to be, thought we.

DAY FIFTEEN.
We journeyed to PhUadelphia by the Bound
Brook route. The weather continued very cold,
but bright. It was a strange coincidence that
one year ago to-day we had occasion also to note
unusual cold for the time of year, having then
(21st AprU) experienced snow in Vienna.
We found the roadways of PhUadelphia even-
more rugged and uneven than those of New
York, there being huge holes in the middle of
the best streets, and the crossings were very bad..
The raUways are all on the level, and the loco
motives with their great clanging beUs in place
of whistles, are mixed up with the " street cars "
and " stages." The trams were aU drawn by
horses or mules, and none of them had seats on
the top, as at Hamburg and other European
cities, where a fine view of the neighbourhood
can be taken at a smaU cost by riding to the

DAY FIFTEEN. 55
various suburbs upon a steam or horse-drawn
car. We continued to notice the plain, good
English spoken, particularly by the negro
population. Thdre was very little of the ex-.
pected nasal twang, which we began to suspect
was more affected by the citizens of the U-nited
States when in Eu-rope than at home.

DAY SIXTEEN.
We had a splendidly clear day for inspecting
the largest city in area in the country, and
second in population, there being nearly a
million inhabitants. Brook Street is twenty-
three miles long, and it and Market Street are.
fine thoroughfares, but the other streets are
poor, ahd have all the objectionable .points of
American cities — open drains, filthy and rotten
wooden shades over the footpaths, rough tele
graph posts, &c.
The houses on the streets running east to west
are numbered one hundred to two hundred, and
all between Second and Third Streets two
hundred to three hundred, and so on ; so that
the number of -jthe house indicates the number
of the street as well. Thus number eight
hundred and thirty-six is in (or " on " as the

DAY SIXTEEN. 57
Americans say) Eighth Street, and you know
that you are sixty-four houses off* Ninth Street.
This plan is very convenient in going about, as
whenever a number of a house can be seen the
distance from the river Delaware or any desired
locality can be calculated and its direction deter
mined. After visiting the shipping we took a carriage
and drove to and through Fairmount Park, the
largest city park in the world, lying for fourteen
mUes on both sides of the river Schuylkill which
is crossed by elegant bridges. The Laurel HUl
Cemetery extends along the crags overhanging
the river, and, with its white marble obelisks
and mausoleums, interspersed with dark cypresses
and rocky peaks, is singularly picturesque.
The houses in the suburbs will vie with any
European city, the Pensylvanian marble which
is so freely used in their doorsteps and fa9ades
giving them a handsome substantiality and
richness of appearance.
The Centennial Exhibition building of 1876
was yet- only partly pulled down, and what was
left standing gave a fair idea of its vastness and
splendour. The Memorial Museum in connexion
with it is a fine marble structure, and was yet

58 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
but partially furnished with articles of art and
vertu. We went through another solid marble build
ing, after the pattern of the Madelaine at Paris,
the Girard Hospital. This is a foundation that
has multiplied its value, owing to the once
suburban lands with vv^hich it was endowed by
one Merchant Girard, having become part of the
city. Its usefulness in providing education for
fatherless children is thus tremendously ex
tended. We left Philadelphia from the Broad Street
Depot, a new railway station that was the finest
we had yet seen in the States. A gigantic
railway map, painted on all one side of the large
waiting hall, was at once the most sin,o-ular, and
the most useful .adjunct to a railway station that
had yet been conceived. The idea was probably
borrowed from the huge map of France, which
occupied a wall of the Paris Exhibition. As a
rule the raUway stations were the veriest hovels,
mere sheds, out of all keeping with the sumptu
ous carriages and grand hotels of the country.

DAY SEVENTEEN.
On Sunday morning at Washington .we ex
perienced a tremendous snowstorm. The splen
did auroras seen lately, the spots on the sun, the
electric disturbances, and the icebergs in the
Atlantic, had at last culminated in a heavy
visitation of late winter in this part of the New
World of the same latitude as Madrid.
Some of the trees in the streets and avenues
of this City of Magnificent Distances were just
in the opening beauty of their delicate green
leaves, and these, bearing their weight of fleecy
snowflakes, afforded a strange spectacle. The
remainder of the trees, being yet unleaved, pre
sented, together with the snow-covered houses
and streets, an ordinary winter picture. The
.asphalted pavements of the fine broad thorough
fares were almost impracticable for horses, whose
feet obtained little holding through the feathery

60 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
carpeting of white. We, however, managed to
get driven at walking pace to the Episcopal
Church of the Ascension. The service was " low
church," the responses being " said " in voices at
various pitches ; and the hymns, Te Deum, and
canticles being sung (mostly as solos) by fine
voiced young women and half a dozen male
persons, perched up beside a fair organ in a
.gallery behind us. The service was almost
identical with that of pur own Church of Eng
land — President and Congress being substituted
for Queen and Parliament in the prayers for
each. The Nicene Creed was placed after that
of the Apostles, the " ordinary " having the
option of using either ; and at the end of the ten
Old Testament Commandments, came the New
Commandment and the second like unto it,
prefaced by the words, " Hear also what our
Lord Jesus Christ saith."
During the singing the people sat or stood as
they thought fit, fully one-fourth of the congre
gation remaining sitting. All sat while the
sentences were being read and the collection
taken. At various times there were arrivals
and departures, particularly during the hymn
preceding the sermon.

DAY SEVENTEEN. 61
In the evening we again sallied forth in
search of a place of worship, and presently came
to a building of ecclesiastical appearance. We
were told by an interesting little girl at the door
that it was a "collared Baptist" Church. Now,,
we had known Baptists of various kinds, but had
never had them ' • collared " before. It turned
out to be a sanctuary for coloured worshippers.
The negroes have their separate churches and
chapels. A black minister was officiating, the
whole black congregation constituting the choir,
and sweetly tliey sang familiar hymns to the
grand old psalm tunes of home. Our presence
did not seem to be relished, so we departed and
found close by, the Church of the Holy Cross.
Here we found an American example of
Ritualism. After the bald service of the morn
ing there was a difficulty in bringing the mind
into proper frame for this florid celebration of
evensong. There was an incongruity about the
hard-headed Yankees taking to such a service.
Being untrammelled by any State Church laws,
the priest did just what he liked. The perform
ance would, however, compare favourably with
similar ones in England, and the surpliced choir
and organist executed their part of it well.

"62 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
Returning to the Metropolitan Hotel by
Pennsylvania Avenue, the moon shone brightly
upon the dazzling snow. The Capitol, always ^
white, nov^^ stood out against the sky a magni
ficent object, its dome and roofs mantled with
pure snow and bathed in the soft lunar sheen.
The Washington Post of the following day
¦said : " The storm yesterday, coming as it did
but a few days before the opening of May,
proved too much for the recollections of even the
oldest inhabitants. There have been one or two
previous snows in the present generation as late
in the Spring, but none so violent and wintry
as that of yesterday. Fortunately for the fruit-
trees, it was confined to a very small area. It
.broke down telegraph wires, broke branches off
trees, blocked up travel to some extent, and did
considerable damage of a trifling, but annoying
character. The snow-storm of the 23rd of
AprU, 1882, wUl long be remembered."

DAY EIGHTEEN.
We made a retrograde movement upon Balti
more, which seaport we had passed in the dark
upon the road from Philadelphia. An hour's -
ride brought, us into the heart of this busy city.
Taking a steam launch we sailed down the-
commodious harbour, and visited first the splen
did British steam-ship York City, which vessel
had discharged a cargo of mineral from the
Mediterranean. The two thousand five hundred
tons which she brought had been taken out in
two and a half days, proving the facUities of the
port for that kind of work. Next we boarded
the Glenrath, delivering a consignment of old
iron railway plates and potatoes from England.
The last-named importation showed that a
variation on the relative harvests can cause a

"64 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
material alteration in the account for food stuffs
between the old country and the new.
As instancing the price of labour in parts of
Europe, as compared with the United States,
may be mentioned the case of a cargo which we
noticed coming from the steamship Glenbervie.
It looked like iron stone, but was actuaUy chrome
ore for a manufactory of colours in Baltimore.
There are mines in the immediate neighbourhood
which ordinarUy keep the works supplied, but it
occasionally pays to give a freight of thirty
¦shillings per ton and have the mineral brought
from Maori, in Turkey, where it is carried across
the mountains to the vessels on the backs of
donkeys, each anirhal being led by a woman or
chUd, also laden with a bag of the ore. By this
crude method two thousand tons had been
shipped into the Glenbervie in the comparatively
short space of ten days !
The grain-exporting trade for which this
terminus of the extensive Baltimore and Ohio
raUroad is eminently adapted was, at the date
of our visit, at a standstUl, the gigantic " ele
vators " being almost empty. We went over
the newest one, with bins for nearly two mUlions
of bushels. There is a larger one at Chicago,

DAY EIGHTEEN. 65
but this one comprehends more modern " fixings"
for storing, sorting, cleaning, distributing and
shipping the grain than any other in the world.
. A staple industry of Baltimore is preserving
oysters in tins. An inexhaustible supply of large
and excellent bivalves is procured from the
neighbouring Bay of the Chesapeake, and although
they become out of season for local consumption,
the " tinning" goes on all the year round. Pos
sibly by the time they come to be eaten they
have become in season. A peculiar sight was a
a hUl composed of hundreds of tons of oyster-
shells which are disposed of to make roads, or
burnt to make excellent lime.
Inspection of the City Hall and the usual
edifices and monuments occupied the afternoon,
and we took our departure for Washington hot
much impressed by the architecture of the some
what ostentatiously termed City of Monuments.
The title was doubtless acquired when the monu
ments were many and the houses few ; now the
city has increased tenfold and the statues and
columns are comparatively scarce.

DAY NINETEEN.
The melted snow and succeeding genial sun
shine caused all nature to rejoice in springtide
glory. Every twig put forth its leaflet and the
sward assumed its vernal hue and freshness.
The denizens of the Atlantic States now reckoned
themselves fairly launched into spring, and chUly
days would rapidly give place to the warmth
begotten of longer speUs of hours betwixt sunrise
and sunset.
Right gay was the city of Washington as we
ascended the steps to the back door of the
Capitol. For be it known that this pretentious
erection turns its back upon the city, the six-
tons statue of Liberty, which tops the dome,
facing the other way. The grand bronze doors
¦ — cast at Munich— the principal fagade, and the
portico whence each new President is proclaimed,-
are at the further side of the buUdino-. This is

DAY NINETEEN. 67
explained by the fact that it was intended for
the heart of the legislative metropolis to lie to
the east of the Capitol, and for the White House,
a mile and a half to the west, to be a retired
residence for the President away in the suburbs.
Very few houses have, however, been built to
the eastward, the avenues laid out towards the
west having been buUt upon in a spread-out
fashion. Washington selected the site himself,
and it was laid out according to his plan, but
as the eighty intervening years have passed over
with only a comparatively small amount of
building going on — and that mostly where the
outskirts were intended to be — the city covers a
very large area for its population of only a
hundred and fifty thousand. Hence its " Mag
nificent Distances " title.
The prospect from the balconies of the Capitol
is an extensive and pleasing one, the absence of
smoke, owing to the use of anthracite coal, allow
ing a clear view for many mUes. The main
thoroughfares, radiating as boulevards like the
spokes of a wheel from this cehtre-point, betoken
the conception of a model city. One division of
the circle has been kept entirely in the possession
of the nation, and within it are the national
G

68 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
conservatories and other federal institutions.
An ugly railway station had been recently
protruded into this reserved portion, but it was
evident at a glance that sooner or later it would
have to be removed. Every American is proud
of Washington, and they all cried out against
this eyesore. An unfinished column, intended
to be crowned by a colossal statue of the Great
General, stood far away, over in the Mall ; but
work was suspended owing to lack of funds.
The Capitol is characteristic of the Americans,
for, immense sums of money having been spent
upon it, they mar the whole thing by stinting a
few dollars upon it at the finish. The lamp-posts
which adorn (?) the steps and balconies would
be put to shame by an ordinary gin-palace gas
lamp ; and in frqnt of the buUding is a dirty pool
of water containing a few hungry gold-fish, and
surrounded by a rusty iron paling, where a
handsome fountain would fitly have decorated
the approach.
Both Senators and Representatives were
sitting at the sensible hour of noon, it only
being in cases of urgent business that the Houses
are kept at work untU evening (that is " even
ing" as we understand the term, for the

DAY NINETEEN. 69
American evening commences at noon — an
example among many that the language is there
being changed, not always in the direction of
improvement). The two Houses of Congress conduct their
business pretty much on the same lines. An
annuaUy elected Speaker presides in the Lower,
and the vice-President of the Republic (as
President of the Senate) in the Upper Chamber.
The seats face the tribune in concentric half-
circles, and the members .are not divided' upon
Government and Opposition benches, but each
has his own comfortable arm-chair and desk.
This causes much inattention, gentlemen engag
ing in their private correspondence instead of
.attending to what is going on. The tobacco-
smoking indulged in by members who were
promenading, and lounging on seats, behind a
raU defining the floor of the House proper, was
very objectionable. There are ample galleries
round each chamber for visitors, and ladies and
gentlemen promiscuously obtain admission with
out any " orders."
Shortly after our entrance our British blood
was made to boil by the deputy from New York,
Mr , Robinson, who reviewed briefly the facts

70 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
relative to the imprisonment of American
citizens abroad, and thought that in view of
those facts it was apparent that the United
States Government was getting careless of the
honour of its flag and the rights of its citizens.
Since the beginning of the Government it had
not been fortunate in its representatives to the
Court of Great Britain. With all due deference
to Mr. LoweU, he declared that the American
suspects were quite equal to him, and some his
superior, and he had no right to look down from.
the throne of his supercUiousness on those
honest American citizens who had called on him
for assistance. He thought that Mr LoweU
ought to be recalled, and he had a resolution
which he would offer. He also had it in his-
mind to introduce a biU entitled " A bUl for the
relief of England, for the benefit of Ireland, and
for the glory of the United States." He was-
not going to let it out on this occasion, but he
had the plan in his mind, and it ought to be
carried out and an end put to aU this trouble.
In the course of his remarks he characterised
Mr Gladstone as the "deliberate fraud of the nine
teenth century," and contrasted the "former
glory of England under her Johns, her Henrys,.

DAY NINETEEN. 71
and her Georges, with her present shame under
her GladstonBs, her Brights and her Forsters."
It was asked what should be done if England
refused to comply 1 "I say fight," continued
Robinson ; " Washington said, ' Independence or
fight ; ' Madison said, ' Give up the right of
search or fight,' and I say, and this ' House and
all true Americans say, ' fight ! ' " (see New
York Herald, April 26th, 1882). I presume
that I must have infringed the regulation as to
" silence in the galleries," as,, at the polite request
of an attendant, I forthwith " made tracks," but
<juickly regained admittance at the other side in
time to see the division taken. The Speaker
announced " Those in favour of the motion pro
posed by the gentleman from New York (re the
recall of Mr Lowell) wUl say 'Aye,' the contrary
'No.' The Noes have it." The result being
challenged, he continued " The Ayes will stand
up," and, after counting, announced the number ;
"the Noes wiU stand up," the result being the
«ame as before. The Robinsonites being st'iU
unsatisfied, the challenge now took the form of a
motion that " the roU be called." This being
carried by the standing-up process, the clerk
proceeded to call the names of the two hundred

72 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
and ninety-one members in alphabetical order,,
the answers "Aye" and "No" being distinctly
and rapidly given and jotted down. The
alphabet of those who had not replied was
quickly gone through a second time, in order to
minimise the advantage which Z would have
over A by being able to rush in from other parts-
of the building after learning that the roU-caU
had commenced.
The processes occupied nearly as long as a-
division in our House of Commons, but did not
require the promenading into the lobbies.
We heard on every hand regret expressed at
the decadence of the House, owing to universal
suffrage having placed the seats in the hands of
men who pandered to the mob, the result being
that the best men in the country kept aloof from
politics. Truth to tell, the Representatives were
a sorry-looking set, and stories were rife as to
the great fortunes amassed during a few years'
membership, owing to the extensive corruption
prevaUing. One gigantic piece of jobbery was-
brought prominently under our notice. The
expansive roadways of Washington — in many
places one hundred and sixty feet wide, exclusive
of broad side-walks — are covered with a sea of

DAY NINETEEN. 73
splendid apphalte which is said to have cost the
nation its weight in dollars, owing to the high
tenders accepted in consequence of the heavy
backsheesh paid by the numerous contractors to
members of Congress to secure their support.
Before quitting the Capitol we went into the
Supreme Court, where the Justices were engaged
in hearing an appeal case. It is the only
court in the States where the judges wear gowns,
and they have no other garb of office. A natu
ralised Frenchman was pleading, but neither he
nor his brother counsel wore any wigs or robes.
There are nine Justices of the Supreme Court,
who, besides constituting the final Court of
Appeal, try cases where one State is at variance
with another.
Strolling into the waiting-room of the principal
raUway station we were shown a brass cross let
into the floor at the spot where President
Garfield fell when stricken by the assassin's
bullet, and upon the wall immediately above it
a marble tablet briefly setting forth the melan
choly circumstahce.

DAY TWENTY.
Taking a herdick (small one-horse 'bus named
after the inventor) we drove to the White House
at the further end of Pennsylvania Avenue. This,
the presidential residence, is a substantial and
elegant buUding, and the furniture of its noble
apartments betokens neither stinginess on the
part of the tax-payers, nor lack of taste on that
of its successive occupants. Here, as in the other
government buildings, are plentiful paintings
depicting battles where the "Britisher" is
getting pretty considerably whoUoped, such as
" The Battle of Lake Erie," " Capitulation of
General Burgoyne," &c.
Close by the White House are the Treasury,
and Government Offices which are plain solid
buildings of granite. After strolling through
the principal chambers (which are thrown open
to the public with scarcely any restriction) we
wept to the navy yard, where, among other

DAY TWENTY. 75
interesting objects, are a fish-breeding house
and a naval museum and library. We also had
the privUege of inspecting a gunboat which was
to start at midnight to take President Arthur
and friends down . the river to a naval review
on Chesapeake Bay. /
Never wUl we forget the kindness and hospi
tality we experienced at this interesting and
delightful city. Colonel May, who with ,his
wife and daughter did everything to make our
sojourn in it enjoyable, was a native of Louisiana;
. but, being of English parentage had retained the
privileges of his British nationality. During the
lamentable civil war he had been one of the few
Southern planters who remained loyal to the
LTnion, and many of his experiences during that
unhappy time are recorded in a book of thrUling
interest written by him — The Earl of May field.
The delicate task of further personal allusion
to this charming family is saved me by
reference to the Washington Sunday Herald
of July the 30th, 1882, in which appears the
following paragraph : —
" An interesting social incident has recently
occurred Ulustrative of the magnetic powers of
Washington as directly compared with the gay

76 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
and seductive capitals of Europe.^ Col. Thomas
P. May, the weU-known and distinguished
author of The Earl of Mayfleld, A Prince of
Brefpny, and other works, came to Washington
about three months ago. The Colonel has been
abroad for about one year, spending the greater
portion of his time in England, where he has
numerous family connections and associations, as
is amply testified in The Earl of Mayfield.. No
confidences are here violated, since it has become
an open secret that many of the incidents
embodied in that popular book are founded on
fact, and that under the name of Carew is
actually recorded a history of the ancient May
famUy, of which the present Lord Chief Justice
of Ireland is a member, and Col. May is the
head. He came to Washington for a short stay
only, but was so pleased with its numerous
attractions and rare prospects that he has pur
chased the elegant residence of Admiral Wyman
on the corner of G and Twenty -first Streets, and
intends to reside in Washington for the greater
portion of his time. With Mrs May, Washing
ton is a household word, for, although married to
an Englishman, she is a native of the South.
Her father was the Hon. Miles Taylor, who was

DAY TWENTY. 77"
for many years a prominent member of Congress
from Louisiana. He resided in Washington
during the greater portion of the year, his only
daughter being his constant companion. We
welcome this charming lady back to the society
she formerly graced. Both she and her lovely
daughter, just budding into womanhood, will be
an immense addition to the social charms of the
political and polite capital of the Union."
The last dozen words are essentially American
—one for the Mays and two for Washington —
conveying the assumed superiority of the city
over other " metropolises '' of the States, as does-
the opening sentence over the " seductive capitals
of Europe." New York and Boston have claims
to be considered the capitals, "pohtical" and
"polite" respectively, the true designation of
Washington being — ^the legislative capital.

DAY TWENTY-ONE.
We left Washington for the west in the
tbrenoon, taking parlour-car tickets for Cum
berland and " sleeper " thence to Cincinnati for
the night travelling. The sleeping-cars are
only so converted at bed-time, the beds being
deftly folded away in the roof of the carriage
during the day.
A great source of inconvenience in traveUing
is what appears to a stranger to be the foolish
arrangement of clocks. An attempt is made
by every large place to use solar time, hence trains
are made to run as nearly as possible to the time of
the sun. In the forty hours' ride now commenced
we had three " times "¦ — Washington, Vincennes,
and St. Louis. It became absolutely indispen
sable to carry with our watches a reconcUiation
card with little dials showing the hour at a
dozen different places when noon at New York.

DAY TWENTY-ONE. 79»
To show the absurdity to which the subdivision
is carried — it is one hours' ride between
Baltimore and Washington, and the clocks are
three minutes different, so that the journey one
way is apparently six minutes longer than the
other. We heard it stated that business could
be conveniently carried on if there were three
standard times — say New York, St. Louis, and
San Francisco. The only way to be certain of
catching a train is always to be at the station
very early, particularly if you have luggage.
There is a great deal of delay about "checking "
the latter, and there is needless time wasted
at both ends ; but the system is very safe. No-
encouragement is given to taking parcels in the
cars with you, and care must be taken to have
just so much impedimenta with you as you can
conveniently carry, as there are no porters to-
transport you from platform to platform or from
train to cab or " stage." I use the word " plat
form," but the boards from which you enter the
cars are laid level with the ground. TraveUing
trunks must be strongly made, as the fellows
who handle them are called "smashers," and
well they earn their appellation.
The time-tables provided by each line contain,.

so A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
within a highly coloured wrapper, the times,
distances, fares and altitudes on one side ; and
on the other a map showing the particular raU
road and its connections. The latter is very-
useful ; a trifling fault, when it is known, being
that the company's own line, marked by a thick
black band across the map, is invariably shown
to be as nearly as possible as the crow ffies,
whereas competing routes appear to be more
devious than they actuaUy are.
Our road traversed for the first two hours a
beautiful, cultivated country, and then succeeded
wild and rugged regions, with short intervals of
farm land, untU dark. Leaving the broad and
winding Potomac (the accent on the second
o, long) at the delightfuUy situated Harper's
Ferry, where the Shenandoah flows into it, we
found ourselves passing up the ravine of Elk
Branch, which, at first narrow and tortuous,
widens untU it becomes the charming valley of
Virginia. Further on. North Mountain is crossed
by a long excavation, where we saw, level with
the line, two seams of coal of one to three feet
in thickness, Ulustrating markedly the geological
formation of the district. A pgor and sparsely
peopled country brought us to the commence-

DAY TWENTY-ONE. 81
ment of the ascent of the Alleghany Mountains.
For seventeen miles the train, drawn by two
powerful locomotives, pursued its serpentine and
upward way, the most of the time on the brink
of deep gullies, where, hundreds of feet beneath
us, the swollen mountain torrents rushed along
their rocky beds, fed every few yards by foaming
cascades which dashed under or over our very
cars as we sped along.
At the extreme summit of the range, two
thousand eight hundred feet above the sea, we
noticed the waters hesitate which way to flow,
and then exhibit a tendency to run in our
direction, until very quickly the little rills united
into the impetuous stream which formed the
upper waters of the Youghiogheny river.
Descending by heavy cuttings, embankments,
and tunnels, for twenty miles, we reached the
end of this mountain section at Grafton, and
were glad to seek rest for our strained eyes in
the repose of our travelling couches.

DAY TWENTY-TWO.
We were up with the sun, and after toUet
and ablutions (for which the car provided toler
able facUities) we arrived at Cincinnati for a two
hours' stroU round the city, during which we
saw and smelt quite sufficient of the capital of
Ohio. Here, as elsewhere until now, mules-
outnumbered horses as beasts of draught, and
strong noble animals they were. We entered a
German Roman Catholic church, where work
women with their baskets beside them were
kneeling in morning prayer, and a humble coffin
lay in lowly state before the High Altar with
burning tapers around it, awaiting the obsequies
which would doubtless take place within a few
hours. At eight o'clock once more " aU aboard " bound
westward, and we partook of a good breakfast
cooked and served in the train. The foUowing
menu was distributed throughout the cars.

DAY TWENTY-TWO. 83
" As you journey through Life Live by the Way."
BREAKFAST Now Ready,
Served in first-class Style,
PRICE 75 CENTS.
A DINING CAR
Is attached to this train.
" Eat and be satisfied !"
PASSENGERS
Will appreciate this new feature of
"Life on the Road."

BREAKFAST BILL OF FARE.
English Breakfast Tea.
French Coffee. Chocolate. Ice Milk.
BREAD.
French Loaf. Boston Brown Bread. Com Bread.
Hot Rolls.
Dry, Dipped, Cream and Buttered Toast;
BROILED.
Tenderloin Steak, plain or with Mushrooms.
Spring Chicken. Mutton Chops. Veal Cutlets.
Sirloin Steak. Sugar Cured Ham.
GAME iSr THEIE SEASON.
OYSTERS IN THEIE SEASON.
FRIED.
Calf's Liver with Bacon. Country Sausage. Trout.
EGGS.
Fried. Scrambled. Boiled. Omelets. Plain.
H

84 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
RELISHES.
Radishes. Chow Chow. ' French Mustard.
Worcestershire Sauce. Currant Jelly.
Mixed Pickles. ¦ Horse Radish.
Tomato Catsup. Walnut Catsup.
VEGETABLES.
Stewed, Fried and Boiled Potatoes.
FRUITS.
Apples. Oranges.
We began to realize that we could become
reconciled to the ways of the natives if they
would only eschew some of their practices and
provide us with less stifling atmospheres ; for
there is a robust honesty about their Republi
canism and Democracy that is very refreshing
after the kid-gloved Liberalism often met with at
home, which relies upon the " left wing " of the
. party to do battle in the cause of progress, and
feels a sort of comforting assurance that the
" Tory drag " wUl keep the coach from rushing
headlong down the hill.
Jonathan has not yet asked for a king, and so
has not laid himself open to the answer, " Ye
know not what ye ask " ; but, on the other hand,
there are thinking men who aver that the demon
of unrest, and desire of those who have not to
plunder those who have, will soon be let loose

DAY TWENTY- TWO. 85
here as in older countries. The well-to-do
classes are getting very fond of anything that
bears early date in the history of the Union, and
the public prints teem with such words as
" ancient " and " venerable " applied.to matters
not yet a hundred years old. Institutions are
fast becoming old enough and rich enough for the
i7itransigentes of the near future to disestablish
and disendow, and it remains to be seen whether
a constitution, of which universal suffrage and
paid delegates are essential elements, will be
better able to cope with the coming Evil than
the mUitary despotisms and constitutional mon
archies of the Old World.
There are strange inconsistencies in the
constitution and in the actions of the United
States Government. Among the latter may be
classed the, interdict of Chinese immigration ;
and as an instance of the former may be cited
the fact that, whereas every white or black male
person over twenty-one years of age has a vote,
no Chihaman, Indian, or female, has a voice in
electing members of the House of Representa
tives, however much they may be paying to the
taxes of the nation.

DAY TWENTY-THREE.
Before crossing the Mississippi to St. Louis, the
town of East St. Louis has to be passed through
— or rather over— much in the same manner as
the town of Gateshead has to be before the high
level bridge conveys the traveller from the
south into Newcastle-upon-Tyne ; in fact the big
city on the western bank of the great American
river is not unlike, at first sight, the " canny
toon " in thenorth of England. A magnificent steel
bridge spans the Mississippi here, twelve hundred
mUes from its mouth, as wide as the Thames at
Gravesend. Two stone piers carry three spans-
pf five hundred feet each, approached by viaducts,
and, on the western shore, also by a tunnel under-
the higher part of the city. The treUised spans
support the raUway, and above is a roadway
with tramways and footpaths. Both raU and
road rise slightly to the centre, which gives a

DAY TWENTY-THREE. 87
graceful finish to the structure. We had a fine
view of the bridge frohi the deck of one of the
leviathan river steamers, the City of Vicksburg,
which we inspected thoroughly. This floating
palace of seventeen hundred tons burthen was
by no means the largest on the river. Her
draught loaded was only nine feet, but she often
had to be lightened to get over the shoals when
the water was low. Her space for stowing cargo
was admirably adapted ; and the large saloon,
in white and gold, was, like all her arrangements
for the comfort and convenience of passengers,
rsuperb and luxurious. She plied between St.
Louis and Vicksburg, making the return passage
in a fortnight, eight hundred miles each way ;
the many stoppages to deliver and receive cargo
in going down about equalizing the time to the
slower voyage against the stream in steaming
l)ack. A drive to the Lafayette Park resulted in an
¦enjoyable afternoon, the land and water being
laid out with more than usual eye to sylvan
•effect. At length the trees had become fully
clothed in green, that well set off the " brighter
crimson " which, according to the Laureate, ~ is
given by amorous springtide to the " robin's

88 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
breast ; " and the " wanton lapwing " was ex
hibiting his "other crest" to decoy some feathery
mate of that ilk to vernal nuptial bliss. The
swans, storks, and other tamed birds were
occupied at their nests upon their several islets,
safe from the disturbance of the transatlantic
school-boy ; -and bands and fountains played, the
latter making by far the more agreeable music
this charming AprU day.
We left St. Louis with more regret than any
other city of our tour, it having offered an agree
able surprise — ^being in many respects the most
satisfactory place we visited. The aspect of such
a thriving port in the centre of a continent is
unique. The German population is very numerous and
well-to-do, and keeps up its own language,
churches, newspapers, and places of entertain
ment. The Southern Hotel is not behind any in
Europe for any one thing excepting situation ;
and for grandeur, size, and comfort combined, is
not eclipsed on either continent. The Palace at
San Francisco beats it for size, and the Windsor
at Montreal for luxurious elegance; but the other
three monstre hotels of the world — the Baldwin

DAY TWENTY-THREE. 89
at San Francisco, and the Palmer House and
Grand Pacific at Chicago, do not excel it in any
material particular.

DAY TWENTY-FOUR.
We awoke amid the green wheat fields of
Missouri, and the rich black soil where yet the
coarse stubble of last year's corn crop was only
partially succeeded by the new sowing which
takes place in May for autumn reaping. (The
term " corn " is applied exclusively to maize or
Indian corn.) The wheat was thigh high, and
expectations of garnering by the middle of June
were indulged in. The rye was headed ; and
generally there were prospects of an early and
abundant harvest.
Trim farmsteads — mostly of wood — appeared
at long intervals ; and, less frequently stUl, smaU
prosperous-looking towns (beg pardon, cities)
carrie into view. Broad rivers and mUes of scrub
and forest varied the landscape. Most of the
cultivated patches were very rudely fenced and
had the stumps of the felled trees of the primeval

DAY TWENTY-FOUR. 91
woods remaining as impediments to the working
of the implements of the husbandman. The
ever-moving panorama was alone worth the
coming all the way from Europe to see.
Most of us are apt to stick to our old grooves,
and if we' can get somebody else to go over the
seas and tell us about the other side, well and
good ; but we, we must go to Harrogate or Scar
borough, where we can renew our acquaintance
with the people we met there last year, and the
year before, and the year before that, and make
reservoirs of our stomachs for the nauseous waters
of the place. We take a bath in the morning,
walk to the station at train times, stroll up the
town of an evening, go to bed and wish it was
.Sunday, for some of the people from home to come
over and see us. And we call this going away
for a change, ahd having a grand time !
BrunsMdck, on the Missouri river, had a special
interest, as here a railroad crossed ours, forming
the centre point of the elongated figure 8 which
our track from Atlantic to Pacific and back was
intended to (and ultimately did) describe. At
CouncU Bluffs all passengers and baggage were
changed into the cars of the Union Pacffic RaU
road, which was to take us a thousand and

92 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
thirty-three miles to Ogden in two and a half
days and two nights. Between Council Bluffs-
and Omaha (four miles) we crossed the Missouri
river by a bridge three thousand yards long, and
for the next twenty-four hours . traversed the
State of Nebraska.

DAY TWENTY-FIVE.
Our course lay along the north bank (or rather
shore, for it was as flat as a pancake) of the
River Platte, as far as Cheyenne, where we
entered the territory of Wyoming, having seen
spreading prairies for the first time in something
like their vast nakedness and solitude. Settle
ments and farms there were ; but, unlike those
left behind us, they seemed to be swallowed up
in the immensity of the boundless levels which
rolled off' to the horizon like the sea. For forty
mUes at one stretch was the raUway as straight
as if drawn by a ruler. Herds of antelope were
feeding ; and " vUlages," as they call them, of
prairie-dogs broke the monotony of the plains.
We saw trains of emigrant waggons, bound
Westward Ho, slowly drawn along by sturdy
"mules. These caravans were the straggling suc
cessors of the thousands of bullock-drawn waggons

194: A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
that wended in long trains up the course of the
Platte in pre-railroad days, sometimes for miles
actually in the shallow water or dry part of the
bed of the stream.
Scores of skeletons of oxen, and some in less
advanced stages of decomposition (as many as a
dozen could be counted in as many minutes),
ishowed the small value of the carcases at this
•distance from populous places ; neither skin,
horns, nor hoofs being removed.
As an example of the mode of life up in these
regions Cheyenne may be quoted. Its altitude
is six thousand and forty-one feet, and population
about as many souls as it is feet above the level
of the sea. Endless and poor-looking prairies
surround it, and it looks as though snow
in winter and dust in summer would be its chief
characteristics ; and its ostensible sources of in
come, supplying refreshments to travellers, and
the carrying on of the waggon and locomotive
shops connected with the railway. The guide
books dignify it with the following description :
" Schools and churches are as numerous as re
quired, and society is more orderly and well-
regulated than in many western places. It also
Iboasts of a racecourse and some good 'steppers;'

DAY TWENTY-FIVE. 95'
and (mark this, for six thousand people) two
daUy newspapers — the Leader and the Sun."'
To show how these "cities" have been founded :.
"As lately as 1869 this place had her share of
roughs, gambling-hells, dance-houses, and wild
orgies ; murders by night and by day were the
rule rather than the exception. This lasted,
until the business men of the place tired of such
doings, and a vigilance committee was formed
which caused several of the most desperate
characters to swing by a rope on some convenient^
elevation, and the others taking the hint quietly
left the city."
Towards noon of this, the second day from
Omaha, being bright and clear, we caught the
first cloud-like sight of the snow-clad Rocky
Mountains (I use the term snow-clad rather
than snow-capped for we were already on an
elevated plateau almost in the region of snow,
so that the range of peaks which appeared was
white to its visible base). Pike's Peak, a
hundred and Seventy-five mUes off*, was the first
" mountain " which we saw. For thirty mUes
the train climbed up jagged granite rocks,
winding in and out of the wooden sheds buUt to
keep the snow off the track, in a manner to-

96 ' A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
rivet all attention. These " snow-sheds " are
very numerous and of all lengths, up to that of
the most remarkable one, which is twenty-eight
mUes long ! There are also fences — sometimes
four deep — erected in places where eddies of wind
have been proved to cause drifts which endan
gered the working of the line.
During the afternoon we reached Sherman,
eight thousand two hundred and forty -two feet
above the sea (about the same height as the site
of the Hospice of St. Bernard), the highest
raUway station in the world.
The cold was severe when you put your nose
out of the cosy, heated car ; but the sensation
was a new and delicious one, and must te a
novel experience to any traveller, no matter how
-extended his previous journeyings may have
been — ^for it is raUway travelling stUl. This
kind of progress is to be likened to a sea- voyage.
One shakes oneself down, unpacks books and
wraps in Pullman palace car, and pursues the
ordinary occupations and amusements of home.
Your meals are abundant, well-cooked and
served, and not hurried. The speed at any time
(out west) is not tiring, giving time to see weU
the curious and interesting sights with which

DAY TWENTY-FIVE.

97

the country through which you are passing
abounds, and withal the air is singularly fresh
and invigorating.
Instancing the frequency of the stoppages and
the information afforded by the time-tables, the
following is an extract from the U.P.R.R. Co.'s
"folder"

East frnm
West from Omaha.
hi
« § a
3.sa
0 o
Omaha Time.
Elevation.
California.
«
P.M.
W
H
¦ P;M.
P.M.
A.M.
5-20
3-43
549
Sherman
8,242
1-23
7-00
6-20
4-08
555
Tie Siding
7,985 ,
1-00
6-25
6-50
4-25
558
Harvey
7,857
12-45
6-00
7-20
4-43
564
Red Buttes
7,336
12-30
5-35
8-05
5-10
570
Fort Sanders
7,163
12-12
4-57
8-20
5.20
573
Laramie
7,123
12-05
4-45
It will be noticed that for trains going west
ward, read downwards ; for trains going east
ward, read upwards.
DAY TWENTY-SIX.
During the night we passed over the second
of the nine ridges of the Great Rocky Mountain
region which we had to encounter, and at
Creston were at the dividing chain of the
western half of the Continent ; the waters.
from the mountains here running in opposite
directions — those to the east turning ultimately
southward and entering the Gulf of California-
as the Colorado River, and those to the west
emptying themselves finally into the Pacific
Ocean from the Bay of San Francisco. Some
writers assert- that the eastward waters find
their way into the Mississippi, but this has been
refuted. We passed a strange train that was shunted
into a siding to allow us to pass, viz : — seventeen
trucks of oysters, bound from the shores of the
Atlantic to the Pacific Coast for " planting."

DAY TWENTY-SIX. 99
At Green River, where we breakfasted, were
collieries in the desert, a valuable property of
the RaUway Company, supplying exceUent coal
for their engines, and enabling them to sell to
the Central Pacific R. R. Co., and also to send
to customers as far off as San Francisco.
The stoppages at the two hundred and fifty
stations were lengthy, and the whole journey
very leisurely, occupying six days and nights
from ocean to ocean, whereas it could be done in
four to four and a half Doubtless the through
traffic and that between the great centres is not
sufficient to support a fast train each way daUy,
and so what is termed the " express " serves a
local traffic which is no doubt remunerative, and
also renders the travelling for through passengers
more interesting and possibly less fatiguing than
a mere flash across the Continent.
There was a car full of soldiers on our train
going to assist in putting down the Indians who
were " troublesome ", in Arizona, and as the
Major who was with them told us it cost five
white men to " quell " one Indian, there was
some reason for the lack of martial glee among
the braves bound upon this inglorious errand.
The table-land continued barren, and although I

100 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
the snow had here not all gone, and the ground
was stUl moist with the melting of it, the warm
sun had so far faUed to cause any green grass to
appear. We learnt that even in the most
favoured parts of the continent very little
greenness ever refreshes the eye, for the blazing
heat of summer succeeds so rapidly upon the
shooting up of the grasses, that all becomes
brown in a very brief space of time. When
such expressions as " rich pasturage " are used
they must not be understood as indicating an
appearance of richness, such as that of an Irish
or even English meadow, but a nutritious seff-
made hay, of great value to the rearers of stock,
but not pretty to look upon.
In this elevated district it was difficult to
imagine what the thousands of sheep could be
eating, but near observation showed that there
was a scanty brown herbage, between the bushes
of sage-brush, that afforded them pasturage.
Farther on we passed into a region of utter
desolation, where the lack of moisture and the
prevalence of alkali — which covered the face of
the earth like dirty snow — debarred the pos-
sibUity of any vegetation whatever, excepting
the pertinacious and useless sage-brush — a poor-

DAY TWENTY-SIX. 101
looking scentless shrub ijot unlike the fragrant
plant from which it doubtless derives it name.
These deserts being part of the large propor
tion of uncultivated land which the Bostonians
boasted of as yet to contribute to the prosperity
of the export trade, our near acquaintance with
them considerably improved our education as to
American resources, commenced at the hands of
our good New England friends.
Fellow-travellers belonging to the locality,
who had tried all parts of the States in turn,
said that crass ignoratice prevaUed in the East,
and among members of Congress, as to the
capabilities of the western states and territories;
which, with the exception of parts of California
and Texas, already supported as many people as
could find subsistence. Glib talk as to irrigation
from artesian weUs in regions such as this was
impracticable nonsense ; the absence of rivers
proving how little moisture was to be squeezed
out of the rocks and gravelly formation. With
a rainfall of only three inches per annum, as in
Nevada, what could be expected as the result
of attempts to grow cereals ? Even the in
habitants of Utah were compelled to leave their
comfortably established territory to seek ui

102 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA..
numbers other grounds, their land having-
alyeady more population than could be sup- '
.ported^chiefiy through the want of water.
The Government put too high a price upon land
" out west." It would not pay anybody to buy
it for cattle or sheep runs. To have to pay
rates on it, it was not worth a cent an acre.
The result was that men planted themselves
down rent-free to rear cattle, and then sheep-' ¦
men would come and edge them off ; and so a
perpetual warfare was going on, culminating
often in outrage and murder. This state of
things, said a shrewd settler, could be remedied
by the Government giving up the expectJation
of selling lands for wheat-growmg that would
never do it, and granting reasonable leases of
large tracts for cattle and sheep runs. This
would result, as in Austraha, in the land being
taken up for its legitimate purpose, pasturage ;
and the lessees would arrange for the rearing
and watering of their stock, as annuals could
travel to where the little water was, whereas;
crops could not, even if there was soil sufficient
to grow them in.
To north and south we stUl carried with us
the snowy peaks of the never-ending "Rockies,"'

DAY TWENTY-SIX. 103
and admired their fantastic outlines against the
perpetual blue of the sky.
At Evanston (just half way between the
Missouri river and the ocean — nine hundred
and fifty-seven miles from each) we first saw
the Heathen Chinee in his numbers, the waiters
at the refreshment room being Celestials ; and
we learnt that the adjacent coal mines, turning
out two thousand tons daUy, gave employment
io eight hundred Chinamen.
. The afternoon was spent in threading the
Echo and Weber Canons (pronounced Canyons),
the road winding through all their devious
turnings, whUe rock-ribbed mountains rose to a
fearful hieight to right and left. Emerging from
these grim battlements of cliff, we entered Salt
Lake Valley, and changing cars at Ogden, took
a branch hne to Salt Lake City, arriving there
in time for supper, and early to bed.

DAY TWENTY-SEVEN.
At the Continental Hotel, we found in the
visitors' book, " T. R. Richards, Special Corres
pondent, Tenant Farmers' Advocate, England."
Doubtless Mr. R. was having a fine time of it
around here " collecting information." Another,
more important, entry in the book was the
arrival that day of General Sherman, Com
mander-in-Chief of the army of the United
States, accompanied by his daughter. General
Poe, and Major Morrow, aide-de-camp. They
had been through Texas, New Mexico, Arizona,
and California. The General said that the
army knew nothing about Indian matters until
hostUities occurred and then it was powerless to
do much, because the Indians got out of the way
by the time the troops were notified and ready
for action. He favoured the entire manage
ment of Indian affairs being placed in the hands
of the army.

DAY TWENTY-SEVEN. 105
The Mormon capital is well laid out. There
are two hundred and sixty blocks, each one-
eighth of a mUe square, sub-divided into eight
lots, each containing an acre and a half Trees
and running water line each street, and almost
every lot has an orchard of pear, plum, peach,
and apple trees. The houses are mostly of one
storey, with separate entrances where the pro
prietor has more than one wife. To the north
the mountains are close up to the city, whUe to-
the south are a hundred mUes of plains, beyond
which rise, clear cut and grand, the grey range
whose peaks are covered with perpetual snow.
The mountains immediately around the place-
are also almost always snow-capped, so that the
hot and dusty vaUey is very much relieved by
the sight of encompassing walls of white, and
by the supply of irrigation water therefrom. It
is a beautiful site for a thriving city, and is-
surrounded by a country rare in the elements of
wealth, could the people all work for a common
end. But the continual resistance of the stand-
stiU Mormons to the go-ahead GentUes is keep
ing the place behind. There are still eighteen
thousand followers of the Prophet out of a total
population of twenty-one thousand, but at last.

106 A SCAMPER . THROUGH AMERICA.
the United States Government are taking steps
to remove this blot of polygamy from the
territory, and if President Taylor, the present!
head of the Church, is wise in time he wUli
receive a " revelation " and declare to his people
•that no more plural marriages will be solemnized.'
We were informed that there was not an honest
Mormon, man or woman, who did not feel
polygamy a disgrace and a shame. The proof
was found in the actions of plural wives and their;
children. Whenever a second, third or fourth
wife could, she passed off as the first wife, and
their children claimed, whenever possible, to be
the offspring of the real, the first, wife.
The electric light and telephone were in fuU
swing here, there being between two and three
hundred subscribers connected with each other
by the Telephonic Exchange in this far-away
community, and new electric light works were
projected in competition with those already
supplying the city with Ulumination.
The Tabernacle came on for early inspection.
An erection whose highest inside elevation is
sixty feet, and covered by an elongated dome
possessing the acoustic properties of a huge
whispering gallery. At its farther end, two

DAY TWENTY-SEVEN. 107
hundred and fifty feet from the speaker, we
could hear the faintest whisper, and a pin
dropped into a hat caused rather more sound to
reach us than if we had been close beside it.
Upon asking the janitor if the effect was
interfered Avith when the full seated congrega
tion of twelve thousand persons were present,
he replied, " Not at all, excepting by the noises
the people themselves make ; that which makes
it good makes it bad, for every cough and
rustling of dress is as distinctly heard as the
preacher's voice."
Twenty large doors, opening outwards, afford
exit for the vast assemblage of worshippers in a
minute and a half.
The attendant had an unmistakeble Tyne-
side accent, and he admitted to Newcastle
birth, and an ardent belief in Mormonism.
WhUst engaged at the entrance-lodge in
choosing some photographs, I overheard the
foUowing interesting colloquy between one of
our party and the hoary -headed fellow-sinner
in charge.
Our Party — " I hear by your accent you are
a Scotchman."
: H.H.F.S. (his manners evidently not im-

108 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
proved by residence in Zion) — " I would rather
be a Scotchman than an Englishman, anyhow."
" How long have you been a Mormon ?"
" I preached in Scotland for thirty- three
years, and have been here four years. Every
man must be a preacher or he cannot go to
heaven. That is, he must make known that
which is revealed to him."
" L)o you believe in Jesus Christ T
" We are the only people who do properly."
" But He had no wives."
" How do you know that ?"
" It is not in the Bible."
" Many things are true that are not in the
Bible, so long as they are not contradictory to
it. God has made revelations to His people in
all ages. Jesus could not have gone back to
His Father unless He had had three wives."
" How is that T
" Because three is the quorum ; so it has
been revealed in these latter days."
" But how about us, who also beheve the
Bible, and do not hold with polygamy 1"
" God is mercUul, and if you have not had
revelations to the contrary you may be saved."
There was no getting over this and we were

DAY TWENTY-SEVEN. 109
fain to leave the old man in his paradise of
security. Who shall say that his ardent faith
wUl not be accounted unto him for righteous
ness ¦?
Being told by this worthy that it was the
correct thing for all tourists to pay their
respects to " the President," we made for his-
residence, and sent in our pasteboard.- A
splendid mansion, truly, equalled only by that
hard-by, erewhUe inhabited by the Prophet,
Brigham Young. Intending to have it out
with this High Priest Taylor as to how he-
reconcUed his conscience with this sort of thing
and so forth, we were quite disarmed on be
holding the benignant old gentleman who
shook us heartUy by the hand and bade us
welcome to Utah. Surely anything that he
believed must be right, and we had to content
ourselves with congratulating him upon the
growth of his community, hoping his wives
were weU, and bidding him good day. He-
vouchsafed the information that he was an
Englishman, and had been thirty-five years at
Zion, having come with the first saints who set
foot amongst the Indians, who had always-
behaved weU in return for the kindly treatment

110 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
accorded to them. The Indians, he said, were
very badly used in the parts where they made
reprisals. We here saw our first Indians, who looked
orderly arid happy enoughj and having visited
the never-to-be-completed Temple, and other
institutions connected with the languishing
creed, we pursued our Way back to Ogden,
where we took the Central Pacific RaUroad for
<)ur eight hundred and thirty-three miles ride
to San Francisco.
Having sent home by post some of the fore
going account of our visit to the Mormon
metropolis for insertion in a provincial newspaper,
the following letter commenting upon the
observations contained therein appeared in the
columns of the journal in question :
"MORMONISM AND POLYGAMY."
"1^0 THE EDITOR OF THE '—  STAR.'
"Sir, — The article which appeared in your
issue of Saturday last, by a correspondent writ
ing from Salt Lake City, containing a description
of that Mecca of the so-called Latter Day
, Saints, together with an account of some of
their customs, seems to have ' fetched ' a friend

DAY TWENTY-SEVEN. Ill
of mine residing in Lancashire, who is a -convert,'
and who has written me in highly indignant
terms anent the article in question. My
correspondent admits that the description of Salt
Lake City, as given in the Star, is perfectly
correct — in fact, wonderfully so, seeing that
the writer of it sojourned there but one day.
But the sentence in the article of your
American correspondent which rouses his
ire more than all the rest is that which states-
that ' there is not an honest Mormon, man or
woman, who does not feel that polygamy is a
disgrace and a shame.' My friend declares that
he is acquainted with more than one person who
being the child of a second, third, fourth, or even
fifth wife, as the case may be, is rather proud of
this circumstance than otherwise. As to the -
women being ashamed of polygamy, he says —
' I can produce a letter written by a polygamous.
wife to her son who is on a mission to England,.
in which she reminds him, in earnest and
beautiful language, of the duty her son owes to
his religion, &c.' My correspondent goes on to
say^ — ' We publish in Salt Lake City a journal
entitled "The Women's Exponent," whose object
and aim is to defend the rights of the women of

112 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
Utah and the woman-world. This paper is
¦edited by a woman, and is contributed to solely
hj women who have entered polygamy many
years ago and stUl remain in it, and the subject-
matter of the articles is invariably in advocacy
of plural marriages.'
'I may mention that I have myself had long
conversations with my Lancashire friend with
reference to the tenets of Mormonism, and with-
•out wishing to be considered by your readers an
ardent sympathiser with this singular body of
people, I can assure them that there is ' more
in it ' than most people are aware of- — I
remain, Sea., J.S."
Such advocacy — or palliation — wUl deceive
few outside of "Zion." Polygamy should be '
stamped out as the plague. Successive eminent
writers — male and female — in their desire to
avoid being narrow-minded, have dealt far too
gently with Mormonism.

DAY TWENTY-EIGHT.
At daybreak we were at the head of the
Humboldt Valley, the course of which, and the
river of the same name, we followed all day.
Ushered in by a heavy snowstorm at an
altitude of five thousand feet, the day im
proved to a bright but cold one. The partly
cloud-hidden Humboldt Mountains on either
side at one time closed in upon our track, and
at others receded ten to twenty miles. Again
the two waUs would threaten to come to
gether ere we should gain an outlet, the river
foaming at our feet, tossed from side to side of
the gorge by immense boulders intercepting its
course, and wasting its fury in vain attempts to
break away its prison waUs.
Appearances at some points .of this mountain
range indicate that at one time it has had spurs
extending across the valley, forming vast lakes

114 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
of the waters of the river, until some mighty
convulsion of na-ture rent the solid barriers-
asunder and formed passages for the roaring
cascades which wash the bases of the cliffs —
here five hundred to a thousand feet high.
Some of the rifts are plainly water-worn, and
not caused by volcanic action ; for fine layers-
of sand appear between beds of gravel showing
where the water settled and the sediment
rested. There are, however, also ample proofs of
volcanic activity in byegone ages. At WeUs
station we got out and examined one of the
springs or wells (of which there are about
twenty). Water was raised from the one
which we inspected for the tanks to feed tho:
locomotives. These curious holes would not be
seen excepting for the circles of rank grass around
them. They are from five to six feet across,
and nearly round, looking more like artificial
wells than natural springs, and vre looked for
the heaps of soU that might have been thrown
up when the well was " built " (as thq
Americans say). But no human digger had
sunk that well. The water, slightly brackish,
slowly coming to the surface, sipes off through

DAY TWENTY-EIGHT. 115
the loose sandy soU of the valley. Soundings
had been taken to a great depth, and the report
was that no bottom had been found. We took
this information as being like the water —
shghtly brackish (cum grano salis), but doubted
not that we looked upon the crater of a volcano
long since extinct, which had thrown up the
lava largely composing the surrounding face of
the country, which lay about in rough blocks
and in a pulverised state.
Huge pieces of granite and sandstone,
shattered and thrown about in wild confusion,
were also some of -the reminders of the time
when desolation and chaos reigned supreme ;
calling forth the refiection that there are other
ways of employing the mind than in mines,
miUs, merchandise, and money. Verily, there
is a God mightier than Mammon, among whose
works the seeker after knowledge may well
employ a portion of that precious talent, time,
which is aUotted to him !
After passing Be-o-wa-we station (literally —
the gate) we observed, about eight miles to the
south, jets and columns of steam rising in a line
irom a barren hUl-side. From this line boiling
muddy sulphuric water descended, desolating K

116 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
everything in its course, and escaping through
the bogs of the plains.
Before night we skirted Humboldt Lake, into
which the river empties itself The newspapers
had just recorded that the lake was fuUer than
had ever been known. This sheet of water, and
Carson Sink (which is joined to it, excepting in
summer) have, like the neighbouring smaUer
lakes, puzzled generations of enquirers. They
have no visible outlets, and yet large rivers are
discharged into them. Theories as to under
ground channels are becoming discredited,
actual experiment having demonstrated that
the evaporation in summer is equal to six inches
per day. The sun is so powerful on these lava
plains in the hot season that ' the water
evaporates quickly after it escapes from the
cooling shadows of the hUls. In the humid
atmosphere of the greater part of the year the
evaporation is reduced to a minimum, and there
fore the water then covers a larger area.
A dreary desert is this expanse of hundreds
of miles of lava and clay, each of which sub
stances is as destitute of support for vegetable
life as the other. No green thing meets the eye
as it roams over the thousands of acres covered

DAY TWENTY-EIGHT. 117
with dirty-white alkali. The sun's rays fall
glaringly upon the barren scene ; burning and
withering and crushing out any attempt of
Nature to introduce life. It has been contended
that irrigation would render the country pro
ductive, but credible informants asserted that
the experiment had been well tried with no
encouraging results.
. Onward we sped, reclining on- our soft
cushions, rolling across the alkali, and lava
beds, giving but a passing thought to those
who in days gone by had suffered fearfully
whUe crossing these Nevada plains, and per
chance remained as heaps of drying bones to
bleach upon the arid sands.
As is often the case where the surface is un
productive, great mineral wealth rewards the
explorer ; and valuabledeposits of ore yielding
lead, silver, and gold, are giving rise to thriving
communities to the north and south of the
main line of raUroad, which are reached by
new branch lines that are ever extending. A
singular perversity has! prompted the hombres
(pronounced " umbreys "—a Spanish word used
in these parts for " men ") who had to find
names for each new town or " station ; " Rose

118 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
Creek, and Raspberry evidently being so
christened because of the impossibUity of either
a rose or a creek or a raspberry being found
within many miles. " You Bet " speaks for
itself, and " Carlin " may have some connexion
with Carling Sunday (a name applied in some
parts of England to the Sunday next but one
before Easter) or may have been so named by-
some adventurous miner from the Yorkshire^
•vUlage of Carlin How. " Steamboat " and
" Tombstone " are about as unlikely names for
embryo cities as could be conceived by the most
imaginative of mortals.
As we neared the Occident we found Spanish
words creeping more and more into daUy use,
and it was gratifying to find our home terms
such as " raUway " and " station " occuring
both in print and conversation.
The Indian loungers became more numerous,
and it must have been about the time of the
annual Government doling-out of new blankets
and hats, for the men were sporting white felt
hats with feathers stuck in them, and both
sexes were comfortably enwrapped in spick-and-
span blankets of gay and gaudy colours. There
is a station called Winnemucca, after the Chief

DAY TWENTYrEIGHT. 119
of the Piute Indians. The remnant of this
tribe appeared to be a useless, harmless set, and
were exceedingly repulsive in their looks and
. comportment. All the aborigines are wards of the Govern
ment, and their affairs are administered by
state-paid " agents," to whom districts are
assigned. Besides the Indians scattered about
among the white population, there are numbers
who are consigned to " reservations," where no
one is supposed to be allowed to molest them ;
and whence they make raids in the fine weather
and return in mock penitence to be taken care
of in the winter. The money employed to
pension the " wards " is, by a specious fiction,
supposed to be the interest upon a capitalized
sum set apart as due to the aboriginal pro
prietors of the soU when the white men
" bought " it of them !

DAY TWENTY-NINE.
Having left Reno in the early evening, our
train had proceeded along the bank of the
Truckee River, and, ascending a thousand and
sixty feet in twenty-six miles, passed out of
Nevada into California, before reaching a station
called Boca. Still ascending through wild,
rocky ravines, the air getting colder and colder
as we got higher and higher, we came to
Truckee, mounting three hundred feet in nine
mUes. Here the railway officials were talking of
looking out for the comet, the newspapers having
set down this as the first night it might be seen
with the naked eye. This same comet we never
did see, although often scanning the cloudless
empyrean during the time it ought to have been
visible, so the astronomers had for once been
wrong in their conjectures as to its probable

DAY TWENTY-NINE. 121
size — a very striking tail having been predicted.
The scenery of the Sierra Nevada mountains
having to be passed in the night, I am not able
to describe all of it, , as only - sights that came
under actual observation are included in my
memoranda.. It had been suggested, that we
should stay aU night at Reno, and take a day
light train on to San Francisco, but the night
being clear and the moon just past fuU, we
determined to go on, retiring early, so as to be
astir at three o'clock in the morning for the
passage round " Cape Horn," as a bold pro
montory of perpendicular rock, down the very
face of which the. raUway is " engineered," is
caUed.. I awoke shortly after three o'clock in a snow-
shed, and a precious long one it was — ^twenty-
eight mUes. There were sUver moonbeams
glinting through the crevices between the
planks, but that. was all tO' be seen. It was
tantalizing to be thus boxed up when passing
such glorious scenery. . With a shriek the engine
emerged from the lengthy cage, and the. vision
presented amply repaid the waiting-for. We
were tearing along high up on one side of a deep
valley. No more snow ; but: the hUls crowned

122 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
with tall pines, and far, far down at the foot of
the precipice spread luxuriant verdure, through
which meandered a sparkling moonlit sUvery
stream. It was almost as light as day, a cloud
less sky and transparent atmosphere enhancing
the glorious light of the moon and stars.
A short stoppage was made at Summit, where
we were seven thousand feet above the level of
the sea ; and two hundred and forty miles from
San Francisco.' Daylight already brightened
the north-eastern horizon, against which the
dark pine trees stood out clear and sharp, as we
wended round the brow of the mountain where
the track is cut in a sharp descent out of the
very front of the precipice. An enchanting
occupation it was to gaze perpendicularly down
upon the tree tops and streak of river below,
and we had cause for congratulation, as things
had turned out, that our fiit through this
ravishing, region was by night instead of by
day. After another hour's repose what a transform
ation had occurred ! From the desert of Nevada
we had passed the rubicon and descended into
the fruitful plains of California. At the frequent
stations Indians offered for sale delicious breakr

DAY TWENTY-NINE. 123
fasts of strawberries grown upon the sunny
slopes of the adjacent " foothUls," as the
undulating formation between the rugged
mountains and the level country is designated ;
the young vines were showing their tender
green shoots on tracts of vineyard spread away
for miles ; seas of wheat just bursting into ear
refreshed our desert-strained eyes with lovely
emerald ; and orchards of peach and all
manner of fruit-trees testified to the pro
ductiveness of this golden climate and soU.
The temperature in most parts of the State
is not very cold in winter nor unbearably
hot in summer, and only in rare cases does the
climate justify the derivation of its name — the
Spanish words caliente fornalla, hot furnace.
The very fact that many persons wear overcoats
at night and sleep in blankets the year round,
and that all field work from January to Decem
ber is performed by labourers in their shirt
sleeves, presents a better and more unequivocal
iUustration of the equabUity of the weather,
perhaps, than any other incident that might be
presented. • There is no long cold season of frost
and snow ; every day's work is productive
of, if not revenue, something that cannot be

124 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
neutralized by the elements ; the farmer has no
barns or other. outbuUdings for stock to erect
(this item alone more than counterbalancing the
extra expense of fares to California for a family
of from three to five) ; he has to lay up no piles
of hay or grain for his stock, as they roam
among the nutritious grasses and self-cured hay
the year round. California is larger than Great
Britain, being eighteen hundred miles long, and
an average of two hundred broad.
We crossed the Straits of Carquinez (pro
nounced Kar-kee-nay) in the Solano, the
mammoth steam ferry-boat, which has the
greatest breadth of beam of any vessel afloat..
She is four hundred and twenty-four feet long,
one hundred and sixteen feet extreme breadth,
and eighteen feet depth. She is propelled by
paddle engines of two thousand effective horse^
power, having eight steel boUers. She is a
double-ender, and at eiach end has four rudders
constructed with coupling-rods, and every
rudder has one king-pin in the centre to hold it
in its place. There are four lines of rail on the
boat, which wUl accommodate a locomotive and
forty-eight goods trucks, or twenty-four of the
long passenger cars.

DAY TWENTY-NINE. 125
Thirty miles of splendid views, skirting the
bay, brought us to Oakland, where a pier two
and a haff miles long, with a double line of rails
its whole length, took our train alongside of the
final ferryboat for the Golden City. Our cars of
passengers and baggage were quickly emptied
into this magnificent steamboat, and in a few
minutes we were at the landing stage upon the
peninsula, on which is buUt the extreme western
city of the American Continent — San Francisco.
Here we found omnibuses from all the pro
minent hotels, and tram-cars that passed by
them all. Our hotel was the Palace, the largest
caravansary that has yet been conceived, a town
in itself, and an object of inspection for every
visitor to the west, whether staying in " the
house " or not. It covers three acres of ground,
and the lowest down of its seven stories is
twenty-seven feet high, while the rooms on the
top storey are sixteen feet in height. Five
elegant elevators, constantly ascending and
descending, convey the twelve hundred guests
to and from their apartments.
We were not long in repairing to the harbour,
for the good steam yacht Ceylon, which was
making the voyage round the world, was to sail

126 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
the next morning, and we wished to have a
look at her. This excursion gave us a desired
knowledge of the plan of the port, and a good
view of the city from the deck of the vessel,
which lay at some distance from the shore.
Having inspected the cabins and appointments
of the ship, viewed the devices for the comfort
of Mr. Fripp, of the Graphic, and his co-
voyageurs, and noted their ample replenishment
of the commissariat department, in the shape of
flesh, fowl, fruits and fluids of the country, we
bade the homeward-bound expedition God-speed,
and proceeded on our tour round the bay.
Upon the bosom of the land-locked sheet of
water lay such a number of goodly fuU-rigged
saUing ships as is now rarely seen together, the
steamers being confined to a few traders along
the coast, and an occasional " liner " to the
Asiatic continent and islands. The Hylton
Castle at her moorings, flying the British ensign,
was a reminder of home.
A fine graving-dock is worth mentioning, as
being cut out of the solid rock, of which it is said
there is not another example in the world.
Northward of the city, the peninsula upon the
inner, or eastern side of which it stands, ceases

DAY TWENTY-NINE. 127"
in a point which forms the southern pUlar of
the Golden Gate — ^the entrance from the Pacific
Ocean to the Port and the spacious bay and
rivers which are navigable as far as Sacramento,
Stockton, and other distant inland commercial
centres. The evening was spent in a visit to " China
town " the world-renowned Chinese quarter of
San Francisco. It is the dirtiest and most
densely populated mass of buUdtngs under the-
sun. Once the old Spanish quarter, the
residence of the aristocracy of Yerba Buena (as
the city was called untU 1847), it has now
become the location of twenty thousand
Celestials who are hated by their white com
petitors in the labour market in a manner that
had just culminated in such pressure being
brought to bear upon the Congress at Washing
ton that the enlightened legislature of the freest
country in the world had passed an Act
prohibiting further immigration from the
Flowery Land for ten years. The original biU
aimed at twenty years, but President Arthur
had exercised his right of " veto " upon it. This,
however, raised, such a storm of execration
from the Republicans of the western States-

128 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
"(who swore that if the Chinamen were allowed
to continue to come in they would "go
Democrat " at the forthcoming presidential
election) that upon the bUl being a second time
hurried through Congress the President had
allowed it to pass, venturing, however, to alter
the limit from twenty to ten years. Thus the
American statesman is the slave of the lowest
of the population, and a comparatively few anti-
cheap -labour agitators are able to force upon the
nation a law foreign to the very foundations of
universal liberty upon which its constitution is
framed. The news had this very day been
received, so that Chinatown was in a state of
bewUderment. There was not, however, such
a state of utter woe as might have been ex
pected, for the cry of " the Chinese must go "
had previously reached such a pitch that
frightful calamities had been hourly expected
by poor John Chinaman ; and now it appeared
somewhat of a relief to him to know the worst
and that he was to have time to gather together
the forty to sixty pounds which is sufficient to
take him back home and make him happy for
the remainder of his natural life.
I had the benefit of the company of a friend

DAY TWENTY NINE. 129
in threading the filthy alleys of this interesting
district; audit was owing to a useful custom
that I had come into contact with this friend so
early. Having an idea that he was in San
Francisco, but having no clue but his name
(which however was rather a distinctive one) I
had been by no means certain of finding him out.
Judge of my surprise therefore when his card
was handed in shortly after our arrival at the
Palace. He had seen our name in the news
papers among the passengers " to arrive." At
Omaha we had been visited in the train by an
official who took down our " particulars " in a
polite but authoritative manner which imbued
us with the idea that we were bound to divulge
our fuU history and future plans. He was
simply a newsagent however for coUecting in
formation to telegraph to San Francisco, for
two days later upon procuring newspapers from
the express coming in the opposite direction we
learnt that Mr. and Mrs. So-and-so, of So-and-
so, England, might be expected to arrive by
Friday's express !
We found such announcements usual in all
the cities upon the "long routes," the "personal"
columns indeed forming the most noteworthy

130 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
part of the numerous editions of the daUy — one
might almost call it hourly — press.
We left Chinatown after seeing the com
mencement of the performances at the theatres,
gambling hells, and opium dens — only the
commencement, for the " pieces " at the theatres
last all night, and the other entertainments
continue for days and nights just according to
fancy.

DAY THIRTY.
Our usual early start was particularly useful
here, as the morning on this part of the Pacific
coast is emphaticaUy the best part of the day,
the heat inland drawing in through the
Golden Gate towards afternoon a stiff breeze
from the ocean which causes a daUy mist, and
considerably agitates the sandy particles of
which the surface of the peninsula is composed.
In the evening all is again stUl, bright, and
warm. Something, however must be done in
the gusty, dusty part of the day, and it so
befel that our first sight of the Pacific Ocean
was upon this (we were told) unusually windy
occasion. Our journey to the Cliff House, a restaurant
set on the edge of some cliffs facing the west
was over six mUes of barren country, alor^g
what w&s dignified with the name of a,
L

132 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
boulevard. Beneath the wide piazza of the
hotel the breakers of the Pacific roared in a
manner hardly compatible with the cognomen
of the ocean which gave them birth, and south
ward along a sandy beach and northward along
the rocky shore, the waves beat ceaselessly as is
" their nature to " on all exposed lines of coast.
Far away on the horizon the peaks of the
Farallone Islands were visible, and close at our
feet, separated from the shore by a chasm of
seething surf, lay the Seal Rocks, the greatest
charm of the neighbourhood. The great slug-like
seals, many of them as heavy as the largest ox,
basked or wriggled in the sun, or gambolled in
the sea around, in a manner which gave great
joy to the Californians, who preserve them as
jealously as do the Venetians their pigeons and
the people of Constantinople their dogs. Seeing
that their number is computed by thousands and
that their favourite diet is salmon the outcry
of the fishermen at this preservation of vermin
can easily be imagined. The harsh bark of the
amphibious beasts commingled strangely with
the coming-and-going noise of the waters and
riveted our ears as well as eyes to this singular
and unexpected spot.

DAY THIRTY. 133
Returning leisurely to town we passed several
cemeteries, well-kept, and with costly monu
ments, and rare shrubs and flowers. A
noticeable feature was the ownership of beautiful
burying grounds by diff'erent Societies ; the
Freemasons, and Oddfellows, for instance,
having each resting-places of their own, where
the brethren of life lie side by side in death
-awaiting the Day when neither oceans nor
•continents nor the grave itseff shall divide the
•great Human FamUy. The Lone Mountain
Cemetery is surmounted by a plain stone cross
which is a noted landmark, being a prominent
object from far out at sea.
The houses, from the humblest cabin to the
stateliest mansion, are of wood, and are of the
most ornamental description, only a minute
inspection disclosing that the handsome corner-
ings, facings, and carvings above and around the
windows and doors are not, with the whole
structure, of finely wrought stone. The interior
of a bijou residence, surrounded by a gem of a
garden, gave us an idea of the comforts of
domestic life at San Francisco. The house was
inhabited by an English lady and gentleman,
and their young family. The walls were papered.

134 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA..
and there was every evidence of a homely
English existence.
The calling of house-remover is a' very general
one in San Francisco, and parties falling in witK
a more desirable plot of ground for sale or hire
can have their domicUe transplanted en bloc.
This operation is generally performed in the
night time, to avoid interfering with the traffic.
The " removers " are the only people allowed to
cut the telegraph wires and otherwise disturb
the public arrangements, which, of course, they
have promptly to restore to proper connexion.
The transfer is effected with very slight damage
to fixings, a little paint and deft carpentery
quickly restoring the main block and outbuUd
ings to original symmetry.
Those inevitable eyesores, the telegraph
posts, are in the western metropolis as little
objectionable as possible, by being made of
dressed timber and neatly and quietly painted..
The telephone is thoroughly utilised : from the-
Cliff House we had a long conversation with
our friends in the city for a nominal charge. At
a lawyer's office, beneath the ordinary parapher
nalia of the instrument, was a dial marked
" messenger, fire, hack, police, doctor," &c. AllI

DAY THIRTY. 135
required was to put the pointer to the desired
word, and in an incredibly short space of time
the doctor would arrive up the elevator, or the
carriage or fire-engine would be at the street
¦door, as the case might be. ,
A change in the common computation of
money had become observable as the west was
approached, founded upon an extinct coin of
twelve and a half cents (an eighth of a dollar)
called a "bit." Small fares and commodities
u.p to a dollar in value were spoken of as worth
a " bit," " six bits," and so on. As the actual
change could not in many cases be given, there
was supposed to be a give-and-take (the
Californian having the "take," you bet, when a
stranger was in the case), e.g. , if you had only a
dime (ten cents) you were allowed to pay it for
a " bit ; " but if you put down a quarter
(twenty-five cents) in payment for a bit's worth
. you only took up ten cents change. . Hence the
expressions " large bit" and " small bit,''
meaning in practice fifteen cents and ten cents
respectively. They know nothing of this free
and easy computation in the Eastern States.
The royal indifference of the Westerns to the
circulating medium is something superb. It

136 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
might naturally be asked, why not use the one
and two cent coins 1 Answer : Because there
are none here. In a street-car I dropped a
solitary copper coin that had bothered my
pocket for some days, and there I let it lie —
glad to be rid of the useless disc. A gentleman
asked if he might have it, as he had not seen
one for years. He said they were sorry that
ever they had allowed the monetary unit to get
below ten cents (fivepence), as fractions were so
bothering !
All Spanish names and expressions are proudly
retained, and you must never be heard using
the irreverent abbreviation 'Frisco, the only
curtaUment admissible to the dignity of the
citizens being that which they frequently use,
" San Fran."
One of the most remarkable buUdings in the
city is the Safe Deposit Block. This magnifi
cent edifice is of ornamental stone and iron, five
stories in height. The walls are connected by
immense wrought iron girders, from basement to
roof. Each stone in the construction is secured
by two anchors to the heavy interior brick walls.
Inside, are erected immense steel vaults
containing four thousand six hundred small

DAY THIRTY. 137
safes built in solid tiers within the impregnable
masonry. Surrounding this mammoth vault is
a corridor, completely enclosed by a net-work
of iron and steel, and there continually, night
and day, the armed patrol, under the charge of
the Superintendent, make their rounds. On
entering the vault-room an imposing sight greets
the eye. The vaults stand out as a monument
of mechanical skill, impressing one with this
gigantic undertaking, called forth by the con
stant advancement of this wonderful city. The
different avenues, the massive doors, the
sumptuous offices for renters, and parlours for
ladies, give an idea of great strength and
grandeur. The renter exclusively holds the
only key that wUl open his safe, which key wUl
fit no other safe, as no two locks are alike. The
renter, before being admitted to the vault,
must be identified by the proper officer. He
unlocks and locks his own safe, but only after
one of the patrol (without whom none can enter)
has unlocked the escutcheon which covers the
lock. The lock is changed with every change
of renter. The company has five inside patrols,
who are citizens of known reputation, long
residence and undoubted integrity. They are

138 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
uniformed and armed. Every half hour,- day
and night, a communication is passed between
the armed watch of the buUding and the patrol
within. A telegraphic report is also sent half
hourly from within to the police head quarters.
It may be asked to whom the safe depository
may be useful 1 A pamphlet given to us sum
marised them thus : — All smaU or large holders
of Government coupon bonds ; retired capita
lists, desks being provided where cash-boxes
may be opened ; manufacturers, mechanics,
tradesmen, clergymen, physicians, and other
business and professional men ; famUiss, widows
and single women ; for famUy plate, jeweUery,
family relics or souvenirs, securities or papers
of value ; the large class of thrifty persons
whose surroundino-g are unfavourable to the
safe-keeping of valuables ; lawyers and their
clients, whose papers in a suit, if lost by fire,
might not be replaceable ; masters of vessels,
or others from home ; colleges, academies,
lodges, and other institutions, literary, bene
volent, social or religious, with securities or
papers of value ; persons having no bank
account, for bank drafts or specie temporarily ;
foreigners, transient in the city, with

DAY THIRTY. 139
money, jeweUery, securities or valuable papers;
Americans residing abroad, who may leave their
securities here, the interest to be collected and
remitted ; holders of valuable papers, or articles
for minor children ; churches, for communion
plate ; duplicate marriage records, etc. ; assign
ment ; evidences of marriage, birth or death ;
valuable letters, manuscripts, or papers to be
opened after the death of the writer ; coUections
of coins, copper plates, costly laces, etc., etc.
The tramway system is most perfect. On
California-street there are four lines of rails,
and departures every minute from all points.
At one time I counted from the portal of the
Palace Hotel thirty-eight cars — an imposing
array. In the hilly parts " dummy " cars are
employed which are drawn along by an endless
rope enclosed in a casing level with the road
way, a slit in which admits a lever worked by
the conductor of the " dummy," by which the
starting and stopping is accomplished with
great ease. The motive power is a stationary
engine of five hundred horse power.
During our brief sojourn three items of news
arrived which were of great moment to various
sections of the inhabitants. The regrettable

140 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
fate of Lieutenant De Long and the "Jeannette"
expedition caused all flags to be hoisted half-
mast. Mrs De Long resided in San Francisco,
and the ill-fated vessel had started from thence.
Joy reigned (excepting in Chinatown) at the
President having signed the bUl staying Chinese
immigration ; and an unmistakeable feeling
of satisfaction (spreading beyond the Irish
themselves) was evinced at the dastardly
murders in Phoenix Park, Dublin. It was
palpably necessary for the Land League cause
that the show of disclaiming countenance of the
outrage should be paraded from the " centres "
in the States, but hourly contact with the
people proved its hollowness. Some — to say
the least — very remarkable " coincidences "
occurred. There was nothing very surprising
about the rapidity with which the news reached
the Pacific coast, for every item connected with
Ireland had been known by us daUy, the same
as if at home, and the newspapers gave verbatim
reports of every day's debates at Westminster ;
then again the European night left the cables
at liberty for this horrible Saturday evening's
news to be whisked under sea and over land
from Ireland to sympathetic America. But

DAY THIRTY. 141
it was strange that a monstre Land League
meeting should be taking place, which did not
close untU the chairman was able to read the
(of course unexpected) telegram, which, after
being duly cheered by the audience, was in
proper course deprecated by the chairman, and
the crime, described as the work of " some crazy
loon, who, he was sure, would have no connexion
with any organized body of Irishmen." This
statement cari be verified by reference to the
San Franciscan newspapers of the following
morning, Sunday the seventh of May, 1882.
As I proceeded along Montgomery Street to
wards the hotel about eleven o'clock at night
(seven o'clock Sunday morning, English time)
my friend ahd I were struck with groups of
excited people crowded round the newspaper
offices reading by the electric light the
following announcement chalked upon huge
black boards^" Lord Frederick Cavendish and
Mr Bourke, Under Secretary, were assassinated
this evening in Phoenix Park, Dublin." After
the first cold shiver and feeling of utter
helplessness, the impulse was to cast around
for sympathy. When I found words I
exclaimed, " It cannot be ; it cannot be ! " A

142 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
big man with Hibernian accent (they keep the
brogue out there for generations) turned upon me,
.and remarked, emphatically, " Why the 
¦shouldn't it be ? " The crowd commencing to
focus our knot, my friend whispered, " Let us
make tracks," wliich we were fortunately able
to do, amid the mutterings of the crowd.
Reflection showed us that had an unwise alter-
¦cation been entered into, the consequences
might have been serious. I don't suppose that
greater danger would have existed in the midst
of the wUdest savages than in the heart of that
¦civUized community, among fellow-creatures of
one's own blood and tongue. Hoping to find
some Englishman with whom to get the relief of
a little conversation before retiring to bed, I
repaired to the bar of the Palace. There
evidently was not a Britisher there, for my
remark that " This is awful news from Ireland ''
¦only brought forth the tardy response from a
gentlemanly looking American, " Wal, you
Britishers have used Ireland tarnation badly."
So to bed, and to disturb the slumbers of my
better-half by a recital of Britain's troubles and
my own. The conductor of the elevator did say
it was " too bad," but assured me that a war

DAY THIRTY. 143"
with England " would make every working man
in the United States a soldier," and added as a-
parting shot as I meekly bade him good night ;
" We would have had a go at you over that-
Fisheries Question if we'd had a navy !"

DAY THIRTY-ONE.
WhUe we were at Boston considerable unction
had been laid to the New England conscience
by the fact that the puritan city had scored a
Sunday's attendance at places of worship of
three out of every four inhabitants. So it had
been ascertained by the more or less reliable
expedient of the now fashionable " religious
census." I am afraid that if a like test had
been applied to the fiourishing Pacific port
the result would have been of a very different
character. We had to take a Sabbath day's
journey to Stockton in order to make that
place the point of departure for an early
start on Monday morning for the Yosemite
VaUey, and the bands of music and parties of
picnic folk which crowded steamboat and raU
showed anything but a strict Sabbatarianism.
A visit to the handsome offices of the

DAY THIRTY-ONE. 145
Southern Pacific Railway Company had made
all right as to tickets and baggage. By the
admirable American system, by which you can
take your tickets at any time and for any time
and " check " your baggage to various stations
on the route as you may require the pieces, the
journey across the continent to Quebec was
arranged as easily as taking a ticket for a round
tour to the Scottish Lakes. The published
time-tables state the fares, so that you are all
ready with the needful when you go to the
counter. " Two for Quebec." Accustomed as
the hard-faced official doubtless was to big
things, this brief request momentarUy threw-
him off his guard, and he remarked." That's a
tall order, mister." (The fare was about sixty
pounds.) Observing, however, that I had the
roll of greenbacks ready, he lapsed into im
perturbability and handed me the three and
a half feet of ticket, to be used up in pieces as
we went along. Although our journey, taking
a southern route, was fully twenty-four hours
longer than by the most direct line, the fare was
the same, the competing railroads generally
adjusting matters in this fashion to neutralise
the competition. In most instances a ticket

146 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
wUl allow you to break your journey when and
where you like, and wiU remain good for any
length of time. In this particular case the
fare was understood to be especially low for
certain "special limited" tickets. Thus I found
that to carry out my programme I should over
step by two days the limit of the ticket and
become liable for sixteen doUars more.
The courteous passenger manager, Mr. GoodaU, ,
to whom I had explained the case at the hotel
the night before, had promised to send on to
Madera Station a note making our tickets
unlimited ones, a kindness which in due course
was fulfilled. Next to arrange a sleeping-car ;
for, although we were not going to join the main
line until the following Friday evening it was
necessary to secure berths, and comfortable ones,
at the starting station. Shown the printed
plan of the Palace car for the date in question,
I selected double lower ones, which, sure
enough, after hundreds of mUes of rough
mountain traveUing, we were fortunate enough
to occupy.
Arrived at Stockton, we found a staid, solid
town, with thirteen chiH-ches, some banks, and
fair public buUdings. Upon one substantial

DAY THIRTY-ONE. 147
edifice was inscribed, " First National Bank of
Stockton." The place was not named, as is
sometimes stated (so said the directory), after
a " small " town of that name in the North of
England, but after General Stockton, who
assisted in the capture of California. The
country around is very flat, and is immensely
productive of wheat. The soU is adobe, a
shining black loam, which makes an almost
imperishable sun-baked brick, of which most of
the houses are built, and then plastered. What
are sometimes no ornament to the Californian
landscape are here made as picturesque as
possible, namely, the windmills working the
artesian wells. Every house has one, and the
numerous wands are prettily coloured, and,
although looking rather gimcrack, they are far
from ugly appendages to the widely spread-out
buildings and gardens. The guide books dignify
Stockton with the title of the City of Wind-
mUls, and Don Quixote would indeed have found
here a rare field for glory.
Attendance at a pretty little Episcopal church
wound up the day, and we heard an exceUent
discourse on Consistency, which rather struck
home, as we remembered how in the early part
M

148 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
of the day we had exemplified to our own
convenience that "the Salabath was made for
man."

DAY THIRTY-TWO.
The train from Stockton to Milton went over
.a line that was the " tapering off" of the rail
road system, our car being one of a train
composed mainly of goods and cattle waggons.
The engine was fired with wood, and the
arrangements altogether were such as to throw
some doubt upon our punctual arrival at the
station for the " stage " — a generic term for all
vehicles plying upon regular services. Nor
were our fears altogether groundless, for after
getting over about half of the thirty miles,
slower and slower became our speed, untU a dead
stop ensued. Nothing but waving grass and
wheat was to be seen to the horizon, excepting,
towards the east, the distant mountains. No
fence bounded the track, and the tall grasses
were blown by a strong breeze directly across
the plates, so that the driving-wheels of the

150 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
locomotive would not grip the rail. All hands
turned out to pull up the grass ahead of the
train, and then a few yards would be gained,
but whenever a slight upward gradient was
come to the operation had to be repeated. The
" stage " was waiting at MUton for us and the
maUs ; and after the driver had " cuss'd " our
train, and said that an old buUock team could
make better time, he drove off towards the hUls-
with oiUy three passengers for the Yosemite, and
another for " the mines."
WhUe jolting over the foothUls to the first -
stopping place, Copperopolis, ariiple opportunity
was afforded of studying the extent and effect
of irrigation. Most of the streams dry up in
the summer so as to make the land of httle
value for grazing or cultivation, but ingenious
expedients are used to make the most of
Nature's stores of the precious fluid. Where
the well supply is unavaUable a supply is often
brought from a great distance by " V flumes."
These flumes are formed of two planks joined
in the form of the letter V, supported on tressles
or laid along the hUls to the correct level. We
saw one fifty -three miles long, which floated
down lumber from the mountains.. Great care

DAY THIRTY- TWO. 151
has to be taken in constructing the bends, so as
not to cause a jam among the pieces of wood
that are swimming down, men being in constant
attendance to keep the course clear. Water for
washing for gold is often conveyed by dexterous
feats of engineering into curious corners by
means of flumes, and we came across them in
all positions with their trickling threads of
water, by the aid of which solitary miners were
extracting the coveted yellow specs from the
gravelly soil. Blackberries are cultivated on
the lower slopes of the mountains and yield
good returns. A gentleman who had been a
hopeless invalid in England was able here to
plough and harrow all day, sustained by the
salubrious climate, and employed his evenings
in directing the water from, the flume through
little ditches so that the carefully watered roots
should cause a plentiful crop of brambles.
We changed horses at Copperopolis, which
settlement was only a shade of its former great
ness, the mining industry which gave it its
name having retired further into the mountains.
The road now became wUd in the extreme,
many miles being passed without the sign of
the hand or foot of man or of tame beast ever

152 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
having been there, excepting the wheel-marks
of our rugged track, or " trail," as the apologies
for roads now commenced to be termed. Our
bones not yet having become accustomed to
be rattled about, this first day's jolting caused
considerable inconvenience, and many a fine
view lost half its effect by our having to hold
on with both hands to avoid being pitched
overboard. The vehicles must be of marveUous
construction to stand the heavy strain, for U* a
wheel or brake or axle were to give way then
nothing could save the expedition from utter
annihUation. The springs are a wonderful
contrivance and admirably adapted for their-
purpose. They are simply immense leathern
straps upon which the body of the stage is
suspended — huge strips of well-tanned hide of
many thicknesses, aUowing the vehicle to hang
at something like a level, irrespective of the
positions of the wheels. The six horses are of
the mustang type and seem calculated to go at
full gallop either up or down a house-top as
might be required of. them. But the drivers ;
what shall be said of the drivers 1 At first it
seems as if their performance were sheer mad
ness. You say to yourself that there cannot be

DAY THIRTY-TWO. 153'
any method or discretion in such dare-devil'
driving ; that the fellow must be drunk or
desperate and has made up his mind to let
matters take their chance. But you soon learn
to appreciate the iron nerve, the rivetted
attention, and the consummate judgment, that
enable him to have such powerful command'
over those game little horses ; and in a\fe you
sit beside him, only venturing to break the'
sUence by offering him a cigar when the horses
are being watered at one of the many mountain
rUls that cross the traU. Sweet were those
drinks of icy water to ourselves also, and the
five minutes stretching of the legs and abUity
to hold a connected conversation was very
acceptable. Five consecutive days of this
staging convinced us that these Californian
Jehus must be the very finest drivers in the
world. They have their own lives as well as
yours in their hands, besides the respon&ibUity
of the maUs, and often valuable treasure, and
no set of men are more worthy of the trust
reposed in them. They are nearly aU young
men — little more than boys some of them — and
they never drink on their journeys (if indeed
they take any alcohol at aU, which I doubt).

154 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
They are well paid, don't bother you with much
" sir " or " madam," and neither expect nor
receive any tips.
Between two high ridges a delicious sight
gladdened our eyes. A comfortable homestead
was nestled in a garden of deep green trees.
This sheltered spot enjoyed a liberal stipply of
water and an immunity from winter's snows.
The sturdy settler who greeted us and watered
our horses had turned its advantages to best
account. He had fig-trees, peaches, and
orange-trees. Upon the latter last year's fruit
stUl hung ripening, while the new blossom was
almost ready to burst forth.
Another interval of heavy ascents and descents
and we came to Chinese Camp, a vUlage, only
part of the population of which were natives of
China, whatever may have once been the case.
The banks of the river Stanislaus showed signs of
old gold-washing " claims," and some of more
recent use. At a point on the river Tuolumne
a single house only marked the spot where
NelsonviUe had been washed away by a flood.
Here was a man at the river's edge washing
for gold, and I gave him a "bit" for five minutes'
results, but not a spec of the precious metal

DAY THIRTY-TWO. 155
appeared. Our driver's opinion was that the
two fishing-rods which the miner had stuck in
the river bank to provide him with his evening
meal would yield him a better return than his
•quest for the dross.
These rivers are simply torrents following the
gorges between the mountains, and our "stage "
skirted or traversed their beds for a while, and
anon wended over precipitous passes, only to be
found once more fording or bridging the stream.
Threading the course of one defile, it looked
ahead as if there could be no exit, the river
broadening and fUling with its here deep and
rapid waters the whole breadth of the cleft
between the rocks. We suddenly came upon a
rude habitation, and a sort of raft moored close
beside it. This proved to be a ferryboat, upon
which we were to cross, and well it served itfi
purpose. A stout wire rope was stretched from
side to side of the stream, about six feet above
the surface of the water, along which ran two
large pulleys, to which each end of the raft was
attached by short ropes. As soon as the old
man in attendance had got stage and horses
" all aboard," he tightened the rope at the end
of the craft farthest from the shore, so that the

156 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
current rushing past the oblique surface presented
to it caused us to glide rapidly to the other side,
the blocks running gaUy along the guiding rope.
When we had ascended a ledge that disclosed
itself for our passage up the cliff, we observed
the strange vessel — the lengths of the pulley-
ropes having been reversed — quickly convey the
ancient mariner back to his peaceful and lonely
abode. Before dark we ascended the dry bed of a
river, literally without any " trail " at all, the
stage simply bumping away over the boulders
where the driver could pick out the smaUest
ones. This was the very beau ideal of a place
for " washing " in a gold-seeking country, and
soon we came upon scattered diggers, most of
them Chinamen, engaged in " placer mining "
as it is called here. Most of the operations
were carried on over ground that had long
since been riddled by early miners, but very little
satisfies the Celestials, and here again we were
informed that as small a sum as two hundred
dollars - of savings enables them to go back to
China and live independently ever after.
Another method of' gold-mining is by the
sinking of shafts ; and at some points we could

DAY THIRTY-TWO. 157
see or hear boring, blasting, digging, and
" pickaxing " going forward, large heaps of
debris showing how the ground beneath had
been honeycombed.
Tired and shaken, we arrived at a station
called " Priest's," where a homely Scottish lady
took us in hand, and we were told that we
would be called at four o'clock in the morning
to breakfast, and resume our journey.

DAY THIRTY-THREE.
We had a grand Californian breakfast and
were on our way with six fine horses before five
o'clock. SimUar driving to that of the previous
day brought us by ten o'clock to a settlement
where we were invited to pay a doUar each for
" dinner." Although ready for a slight re
fection by way of luncheon, we resented the
idea of dining at this unfashionable hour, but
on learning that this was the last habitation we
should pass before late in the evening, we were
fain to do our best to lay in a " square meal."
There were provisions and water in our waggon
in case of an enforced camp for the night, but
they were not to be touched yet awhile.
Our ups and downs resulted by midday in
our attaining an elevation of six thousand three
hundred feet above the sea-level, and our track
was now rarely clear of snow. The summit

DAY THIRTY-THREE. 159'
was a clearance called Crane Flat, and the-
summer occupant of the " desirable residence "
eligibly situated thereon had just that very
morning succeeded in digging himself into his
snow-preserved mansion for the coming " sea
son." He provided us with a drop of decent
whiskey, and we plunged into an afternoon's -
work of pushing through the softening snow.
A team that had come through in the morning
when the snow was frozen had got along pretty
well, but a hot forenoon had made it very bad
going. It now transpired that the stage the day
before had stuck fast, and the passengers had to
camp until the moon had risen and the snow
hardened in the middle of the night. We were
many a time within an ace of a like fate, but by
all turning out and walking over the worst parts,
and our team plodding gamely on, we escaped
with nothing worse than wet feet and a little
fatigue. The stage had been plying for four weeks, hut-
it had been on runners — sleighing, in fact. Then
had followed a week of driving the horses in
snow-shoes — ^pieces of wood, eleven inches by
eight, fastened on to the hoofs by iron clamps.-

160 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
The condition of the road now rendered all these
expedients of no assistance ; the poor brutes
¦simply had to plunge on, often up to their
bellies in the holding mass, sometimes falling,
and sometimes lying down of their own accord
for a rest. The conveyance frequently lay over
upon its side as one wheel came on a. softer spot -
than the opposite ones, and every few minutes
had to be dug out by the labourers who were
employed in endeavouring to clear the road.
We passed through the Tuolumne Grove of
Wellingtonia gigantea, but as this mammoth
vegetation wUl be described later on upon our
visit to the more numerous Mariposa Grove, I
wUl dismiss it for the present, excepting to say
that the wretched state of the road compelled
us to stick to the old " traU " instead of taking
a short detour now used, as it allows horses,
stage, and load of passengers to pass through a
tunnel cut through the trunk of one of the
monstre trees.
As the sun sank in the west the snowy part
of our journey was at last left behind, and, our
•vehicle intact and horses in wonderful trim, we
commenced the descent of a steep road into a
¦wild, undulating region. But where was the

DAY THIRTY-THREE. 161
Yosemite Valley ? We knew by the pictures
we had seen that it was something very different
to anything we saw yet. Apparently just
beneath us (but in reality a considerable distance
off) opened a great chasm, the bottom of it at
first invisible. Yes, down there was the
wondrous valley of all valleys ! Not only
had we to go to the verge of that gorge,
but into it ; and deep, deep down we could now
discern that it had a bottom. The deceptive
distance was quickly lessened, and our senses
became aware of a novel sensation as we beheld
the effect, in a vast mountain country, of a rift
a mile deep, an average of only a mUe wide, and
scarcely seven riiUes in length !
Entranced by the dangerous task awaiting
us of having to drive down the face of perpen
dicular cliffs, we passed unheeded the interesting
formation of the rocks close to us^ — a wild boulder
district, with huge stones spread about, their
sizes and shapes varying from those of the dome
of St. Paul's to the similarity of an elephant,
resemblances that gave rise to high-sounding
and extraordinary names.
Arrived at the edge of the vaUey or gulche,
we entered upon a zigzag trail and fancied at

162 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
times, as we were whirled along at an alarming
pace, that we could throw a stone to the
opposite wall, which was in reality a mUe off !
One or two horse-traUs had been untU recently
the only passes among these precipices, but
now there were three roads of bold and
dexterous engineering, each admitting a single
team and waggon, but with no passing places.
The uninhabited vicinity and the meagre traffic
render easy the working of the necessary
system by which the inward commerce occupies
the trails in the evening and the outward in
morning. Any chance vehicles are duly
heralded and are warned at the " stations "
that they must draw up at a convenient
" siding " untU the regular services have
passed. The stages, horses, roads, bridges,
ferries, and stations, on each route are in the
hands of a separate company, outsiders havmg
to pay toll.
Darkness enveloped the scene as we arrived
at the flat floor of the valley and sped along
a sandy track beneath lofty pines to one of the
three hotels, where we turned in to rest and
await the bursting glories of sunrise. '

DAY THIRTY-FOUR.
Daylight disclosed the source of a loud
continuous roar which we had heard during
the night, for right in front of our window was
the Yosemite Fall. The stream takes a vertical
leap of fifteen hundred feet and then an unbroken
fall of six hundred feet and finally a plunge of
four hundred feet to the bottom of the chasm.
The plentiful supply of water at this season
gave the appearance of a uninterrupted water
fall of over twenty-five hundred feet. It only
requires the height of St. Paul's Cathedral
(three hundred and seventy feet to the top of
the cross) to be kept in mind to form an
approximate idea of the stupendous proportions
of this extraordinary region. We were facing
the north, and a little to the east rose a bold
peak three thousand feet above the vaUey. It
must be borne in mind that the bed of the
-N

164 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
vaUey, through which the river Merced flows,
receiving the waters from all the faUs, is more
than four thousand feet aboVe the level of the
sea, and that all the altitudes are given, starting
from that already lofty elevation.
The expeditions to the various points of
vantage can only be made on horseback, the
ladies being compelled to stride the saddle in
the same manner as gentlemen.
There is very little debris at the base of the
encirchng rocks, the granite of which they are
composed being scarcely wearable by water.
The places at the top where the streams tumble
over remain as sharp as the other edges of the
cliff. The air, however, has a slight decomposing
effect upon the stone, and this gives a shining
surface to the perpendicular walls, and accounts
for the fine sand which forms the holding for
the trees and other vegetation of the bottom.
This wear widens the space between the sides
at the rate of a minute fraction of an inch per
annum. Pines of centuries' growth and more
than two hundred feet high appear against the
precipitous cliffs as plants of asparagus beneath
a high garden-wall. Professor Whitney says,
" Many waterfalls surpassing the most fre-

DAY THIRTY-FOUR. 165
•quented in Europe are left unvisited because
there are so many other wonders to occupy
attention." Nearly all the falls, however, are
dried up in summer, and it requires a visit in
May, as ours was, to see them to full advantage.
The Bridal Veil, a sheet of water thirty yards
across, drops clean over a ledge nine hundred
feet high,, the falling liquid becoming dis
integrated into fieecy ringlets of spray, which
rapidly resolve themselves into a gushing
torrent at the spectator's feet. A magnificent
double rainbow adorns the face of this beautiful
cataract every afternoon. The Virgin's Tears
Creek at the opposite side of the valley makes
a fine fall of three thousand three hundred feet,
enclosed in a deep recess of the rock. This is a
very petted fall, and is rarely to be relied upon,
but the virgin must have been very naughty or
else weeping for joy that day, for .she shed
her tears copiously enough upon us. There
are half-a-dozen other large falls of similar
dimensions to those described, and innumerable
" ribbon faUs," whose fantastic motions, as
wafted by the wind over the face of the smooth
granite, form an interesting feature in a Spring
inspection of this enchanting gorge. The

166 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA-..
waterfaUs were all more copious in the evening,
for during the night the melting process on the
surrounding mountains ceased, and the collect
ing river Merced was 'consequently two feet,
higher at night than in the morning.
Highest of the mountains is Cloud's Rest^
over six thousand feet ; and next, the South.
Dome, five thousand, the Indian name for which.
means Goddess of the Valley. The Indians,.
who were unfoUowed by white men here untU
the year 1851, have beautiful names for every
point ; thus Yo-Semite means Great Grizzly
Bear. The following English names of various
parts of the scenery are sufficiently descriptive :
Round Tower, North Dome, Glacier Point, Cap
of Liberty, Three Graces, Three Brothers,
Sentinel Rock, and Cathedral Spires. The
last-mentioned are wonderfuUy like a Gothic
cathedralj and not, as is often the case, suggestive
of anything but the object named after.
There are a centre tower, and gigantic twin
spires of almost identical shape and proportion ;
but the king of all is the stupendous, Spanish-
named, El Capitan. This majestic " pillar of
the earth" Stands unequalled in giant glory,
and as we gazed in awe upon it the Psalmist's-

DAY THIRTY-FOUR. 167
apostrophe of the great Architect occurred
forcibly to us, — ¦
Before the hills in order s.tood.
Or Earth received her name.
From everlasting thou art God,
To endless years the same !
In an alcove a thousand feet up the face of this
" Captain " is a pine of a hundred feet high,
which presents, when viewed through a field-
glass, the picture of a perfect tree growing upon
a ledge, which must afford the merest scrap of
'. support. The Utes, or Digger Indians, stUl camp in the
¦ valley, and are not discountenanced, as they are
inoffensive, and are one of the amusements of
visitors. They migrate to regions more clear of
snow for the winter, and leave their stores of
acorns until their return in spring. Their acorn
" hives," holding many tons, are formed ot
branches of trees, and are elevated on poles out
¦of harm's way. When required for use the
acorns are shelled and pounded into a meal, of
w^hich cakes are made to be eaten by the
aborigines with their fish or flesh. Trout are
abundant in the river, and it is strange that no
one but the Indians can here catch them in
numbers. This they do, and seU them to the

168 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
hotels. We could not have any, because " the
Indians had not come in yet."
From October to March the Yosemite is closed
to the outer world, excepting such slender com
munication as is kept up by means of a postman
who, on snow-shoes, makes his way across the
mountains with "the mails." During the past
winter, however, even this fitful service had
been suspended. The practice of staying in the
valley over winter is getting more favoured,
no less than thirty-five persons having remained
in their houses during the snow-bound months
just expired. Plenty of provisions for man and
beast had been stored, and everybody, including
women and chUdren, had disported on snow-
shoes and in sleighs, shooting and trapping game
to their hearts' content. Many valuable skins
were secured, consisting of bear, wolverine,
sUver fox, &c. Those hotels and houses which
were entirely closed and snow-buried had to be
opened out and set in order as early as possible^
and wondrous feats of walking and sleighing
were reported as having been performed by
entering in March of the present year ; the
valley itself being clear.
During some winters there are periods of com-

DAY THIRTY-FOUR. 169
paratively open weather : in January, 1878, A.
Pendarves Vivian, Esq., M.P., F.G.S., managed
to drive into the valley, but was glad to get
out of it again after a night's rest, to avoid a
threatened snowstorm. He found the proprietor
of Leidig's Hotel " at home," and " mine host "
exploded a dynamite cartridge in honour of the
abnormal visitor.

DAY THIRTY-FIVE.
Nine passengers filled our strong light stage,
and we started while it was yet dawn, a jovial
party, from the Yosemite VaUey Hotel for Big
Tree Station, twenty -five miles away.
The only preparations needed were against
the dust, the perennial sunshine at this season
rendering precautions against rain unnecessary.
Our six horses rattled us merrUy along the
vaUey to the steep winding trail forming
the exit, and, after a tortuous ascent, pauses
were made at Artist's Point and Inspiration
Point to drink in once more the delicious views
of the arcadia we were lea'ving, now bathed in
the sheen of the glittering morning sun. The
morning and evening effects in California are
very grand, the orb of day rising and setting
clean against the horizon of sea or land without
any traces of haze or cloud.

DAY THIRTY-FIVE, 171
In hours of trouble, and when under the
influence of " the blues," one is apt to exclaim,
¦" What have I done that can deserve such
Tit-ter misery as this ? " And here the com
pensating balance of a kind Providence gave us
an experience in the opposite direction ; the
delightful sensations attending these early
morning starts in the life-giving atmosphere
being like a foretaste of heaven or an earnest
of the delights of paradise ; prompting the
reflection, " What have we poor mortals done
to merit such happiness ? "
We passed Fort Neptune, a hut inhabited by
a sportsman known as Father Neptune, and
saw that worthy working in his garden "with
his rifle slung at his back. He informed
us that recently he had killed two bears, and
we were able to tell him that there was more
like game in store, as, only the night previous,
five hogs had been killed by a " grizzly " in the
enclosure belonging to the one butcher of the
Yosemite. The denizens of the valley expressed
confidence in bagging him, as his nightly
depredations betokened a growing temerity
that would prove fatal to him. Rattlesnakes
were plentiful, and our driver adroitly left one

172 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
a writhing corpse, kUled by a stroke of his
whip. The forest was carpeted with brilliant wild
flowers, and the air was fragrant with ten
thousand blossoms. Prominent amongst the
gems which bedecked the sward was the
beautiful snow-plant, whose bright crimson cone
protruded with rare contrast through the
thinning sheets of snov/, or blossomed for a day
uncovered before being burnt up by the glare of
the springtide sun. The flowering shrubs were
magnificent, the density of every colour being
remarkable. The many-tinted manzanita and
madrono mingling with bushes of wUd lilac, plum
and a hundred others — conspicuous amongst
which was the treacherous, crimson-leaved
" poison oak " — ^left an impression upon the
mind's retina that time can never efface. Then,
towering over all like giant shades and pro
tectors, were the lofty monarchs of the forest !
Stately, straight as arrows and supple as bows
they heeded not the blasts of winter nor the
droughts of summer, but from age to age, so
long as left alone in their primeval pride, they
pointed heavenwards their dark green plumes !'
Their varieties, embracing red, yellow, and

DAY THIRTY-FIVE. 173^
sugar pines, and cedar, spruce, and common
firs, exhibited every shade of foliage.
An alloy to our joy was the frequent sight of
fine trees destroyed by fire, some laid prostrate,.
others stUl erect, with charred trunks and
remnants of branches, testifying to the wanton
ness -of campers, whose embers had fired the-
scrub and spread the devouring element to the
inflammable resinous bark of the trees. , Very
heavy fines are upon the statute-book for such
¦criminal carelessness, and there was a manifest
determination among the settled inhabitants to'
• assist the State officers in bringing the offenders-
to punishment. We passed by a "claim"
where a clearance was being made by the help
of fire, and it occurred to us that even this
legitimate use of it ought to be very jealously
guarded from abuse. Only the preceding
summer the whole of the timber in the Yosemite
valley had been endangered by some sheepmen
having caused a conflagration .along the edge of
the overhanging cliffs, one burning twig or'
spark from which might have transferred into a-
hades the paradise beneath.
At Point Lookout we had a splendid
panorama of the Chouchilly Mountains, and

174 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
our Jehu showed us a notch in a tree, ten feet
above the ground, which he had cut three
weeks before, to mark the level at which he
liad driven a sleigh over the snow.
We partook of luncheon at Clarke's Ranche,
where we ultimately stayed overnight, and took
a fresh team for the Mariposa Grove of Big
Trees, one of the real original Wonders of the
World of our school-books. A laconic driver
rather irritated a gentleman among us who
volunteered to ply the reticent one with
whiskey from his flask if I would undertake
to " draw " him whUe under its influence. It-
w^as all in vain, untU, adopting tactics savouring
of Mark Twain, I made a remark that brought
hirn down from his pinnacle of indifference. It
was in this wise. The guides and drivers there
abouts are genuinely in love with their scenery
and pet show-places, and do not perform then-
part in a mere prefunctory manner. This imper
turbable individual had, beneath his Californian
hide, the amour patrie of his kind, and drew up
his team in majestic style at the foot of the
Grizzly Giant (as one of the mammoth trees is
called), and with a wave of his whip turned a
beaming countenance upon us, as much as to

DAY THIRTY-FIVE. 17 5>
say " There ! " I eyed this specimen of the
biggest thing in trees in the world and said,,
" Wal, I guess we have bigger tree than that
in our backyard home!" The change in his-
face brought a hearty peal of laughter from
all, and thenceforth Mr. driver was as com
municative as his nature would allow, his-
opening comment being "Wal, stranger, if you
got bigger tree nor yon in your country, you
must come from a good way off."
The Americans hate the name of Wellingtonia,
and say that these trees are properly the
sequoia gigantea — some having gone so far as-
to name them Washingtonia. Seeing that the
trees are in one of their " national parks," it is
only fair to let them caU them what they like.
In the twUight we visited an encampment of
the Coldstring Indians, and interviewed their
stoical and uninteresting chief, Chickabon, who
we all agreed was a more desirable acquaintance
when we were within haUing distance of our
" hotel," and our party outnumbered his, th^n
he would have been in the depth of the forest
under different circumstances.

DAY THIRTY-SIX.
A drive of seventy- two mUes was requisite to
reach the Central Pacific Railroad at Madera,
and the same company took stage at sunrise to
accomplish it. Being ,'StUl four thousand feet
.above the sea, tortuous paths and perUous
descents had to be traversed before we reached
the plains. Here and there swoUen streams had
to be forded that caused many a jolting and
slight wetting.
For many miles never a habitation was come
in sight of, and hours elapsed without a single
human bfeing besides ourselves being visible.
Traces of the genus homo were, however, fallen in
with, unmistakeable evidence of the recent
presence of mankind being a parcel of trout,
weighing about twenty pounds, which, tied up
in a piece of cotton fabric, lay a suspicious-
looking bundle by the wayside. Upon its

DAY THIRTY-SIX. 177
contents being disclosed, the first impression was
one of gratification at such a useful " find."
But it was not ours, and the enticing " perish
able goods " were placed as much sheltered
from the sun as possible, in case the unconscious
loser or confiding depositor should return to
claim his or her own. The, chances were that
the rightful owner was some Indian squaw (for
the redskins make their women do all the work)
who had been early astir that morning engaged
in piscatorial pursuit.
The road was still only a single track and as
we got to more frequented country and became
more liable to encounter other vehicles, an
occasional pedestrian would come towards us,
the avant cou,rier of some approaching team,
come to arrange a passing place. An interest
ing cavalcade we passed was formed of three
immense freight waggons. The first one was
drawn by six mules, the leaders having Russian
like appendages over their heads, from which
ten jingling bells gave warning to approaching
travellers. The other two waggons were drawn
by ten buUocks each, the driving of which was
a laborious task, and how they wound round
the sharp turns of the rocks, or how any but

178 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
the two " wheelers " could be of any use at;
critical points, were puzzles to all of us.
In crossing — many miles to the southward of
our outward journey — the foothUls lying between
the Rocky Mountains and the level country to
the westward, we again passed several vine
yards. This interesting branch of agriculture
we were informed was liable to be overdone.
Fair port and sherry, and good claret and brandy,
were made, principally by European vinters, who
had been imported, but as the vinous liquids.
of commerce are not ruled in value by merit.
alone, the prices realized were barely remunera
tive. At the hotels the native wines always-
figured on the card at much lower prices than
foreign brands ; and as for the brandies, they
had not yet had time to attain age to test their
merits. The little phylloxera, which has played such
havoc with the vines of Europe from time to-
time, was as yet unknown in California at the
time of our visit.
The last portion of the stage journey was over-
seventeen miles of flat land, the pasturage dried
up, and the prospect of wheat harvest on this
particular section almost nil. It was melancholy

DAY THIRTY-SIX. 179
to see in this glorious corn-growing weather and
country, mUe after mile of ground upon which
all the energies and patience of the tUler and
sower had been expended, with scarcely a blade
visible ; nor would there be, for the fixed dry
season had now set in and there would be no
more rain untU the harvest in more fortunate
localities was cut and thrashed. This unusual
misfortune was the result of an almost unprece-
dently droughty spring, succeeded by an opening
dry-season marked by persistent strong winds,
which licked up every vestige of moisture and
were still blowing, causing us to suffer from the
dust as if pursuing our way through a barren
desert instead of one of the ordinarUy most
productive regions in the world.
The normal climate renders the State ot
California a farmers' paradise, the regularity of
the seasons being such that his operations can
be carried on with the minimum of uncertainty
as to results. Favorable seed-time, followed by
gentle rains, gives place to the glorious golden
summer during which the grain grows, ripens,
and is garnered. After it is cut the owner
leaves it standing in the field and goes to
Sacramento or San Francisco to seU it, returning o

180 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
to thrash it out and put it into the bags in
which it finds its way to the mUler near home,
or across the sea to distant England.
A wretched cluster of shanties is Madera, but
soon the welcome train drew up that was to
carry us southwards to the orange groves and
rose gardens of Los Angeles and to the very
confines of Mexico.

DAY THIRTY-SEVEN
During the night we had slept through the
¦famous Loop Tunnel, where, to suit the
exigencies of the construction of the line, the
iroad is made to describe a circle and go under
and over itself. This is wrongly stated in some
guide-books to be the only case of the kind in
the world ; there being at least two others, one
in the United States, and the other in descend^^
jng by the Roumanian State RaUway from -fche
Carpathians towards the Austrian frontier on
the Danube.
The " City of the Angels " lies at the
.-southern base of the Sierra Santa Monica
mountains and is completely embowered in
fohage ; being irrigated from the Los Angeles
jiver by windmUls. Vineyards, orange and
lemon orchards, and lovely gardens and groves
meet the eye at every turn, whUe magnificent
j)lantations stretch away as far as sight can ken.

182 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
The morning meal in the cool and cleanly
buffet had the advantage of tropical plants,.
fruits, and beverages, combined with the
homeliness of the Anglo-Saxon language..
Nothing save the inscriptions upon the sign
boards, and the tongue of the people, indicated
that we were in an English-speaking country..
Pretty chUdren with swarthy complexions and
pearly teeth were seUing branches of orange-
tree upon which were ripe fruit of the past, and
the fragrant blossom of the present year.
But soon we were away into the desert ; the
palm tree, the banana, the Italian cypress, the
live oak, pepper, and eucalyptus, giving place
to cacti and eternal sand as we descended
lower and lower with each revolution of the
wheels, untU we reached the depth of two
hundred and sixty-six feet beneath the sea-
level. It may be confidently stated that at a
distant byegone period this basin had been fiUed
with the waters of the ocean, because the beach
around the depression can be plainly seen, the
pebbles lying in rows as though the different
waterlines had been left but yesterday by the
receding tide. All day, with windows closed
to keep out the cutting grit, and blinds.

DAY THIRTY-SEVEN. 183
closely drawn to avoid the dazzling glare, we
were whirled along the oldtune bed of the sea.
We had one cause of satisfaction, and that was
'that our train was at last progressing eastward,
which was now evidenced by the fact of our
days each shortening by an hour as we met the
rising sun. ' Mr George Crofutt in his New
Overland Tourist and Pacific Coast Guide has
the following elegant paragraph relating to this
¦part of the route : " Methinks we can see the
huge ships saihng over our heads and many of
the leviathans of the deep, with an eye cast
wistfully down upon us ; then we think of
Jonah, and wonder if we will come out as he
did ; then along comes the freebooter, Mr
Shark, and appears to be taking our measure
with a knowing wink of his left fin — ^he rises to
the surface as though to get a fresh breath and
a better start for a good dive, looking as hungry
as a New York landlord, as enterprising as a
Chicago drummer (anglice bagman), and as
cheeky as some of the literary thieves who
pirate information from our book without giving
credit ! "
This is an appropriate point for me to make
my bow to Mr Crofutt and to thank him for the

184 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
assistance of his useful book, without which and
Messrs Appletons' invaluable General Guide I
could not have directed my route so as to have
seen so much without a much greater ex
penditure of time and money. It is doubtless
to a printers' error that I am indebted for the
information on the opening page of the first-
named book that proceeding " on, on, west
ward " is going towards the Orient, but such
occidental mistakes are rare in the work.
Just one more quotation anent this desert.
This is from Mr. S. Nugent Townshend, the
well-known " St. Kames " of the Field ; he says
" Don't get cross about it, the great American
desert must be crossed somewhere, and by this
road you have no alkali, and invariably good
water throughout .... Rest contented.
. go to sleep awhUe, but be certain to wake
up at Yuma for supper at six o'clock." This we
did, and found a city unlike any preceding one.-
Americans, Spaniards, Mexicans, and Indians
thronged the square about the station, the
buUdings around which are of one storey with
flat roofs and piazzas of more or less ornate
construction. We learned from reliable
authority that the sun sometimes marked

DAY THIRTY-SEVEN. 185
one hundred and thirty degrees in the shade,
and that the residents (as may readUy be
believed) " wear as little clothing as possible,
sleeping on the roofs of the houses, covered by
the drapery furnished by nature — darkness "
(vide Crofutt).
Being about to quit California for Arizona,
just a parting word as to the climate of the
southern part of the former State. All the
attractions that the clear skies of Greece and
Italy have had from remote times for the
natives of the cloudy north are excelled by
Southern California. The superiority of the
climate of California over that of Italy has been
mentioned by many noted travellers. Samuel
Bowles says " There is a steady tone in the
atmosphere like draughts of champagne."
Another writer says " it is like Italy's climate
except that it is not enervating." It is a
common saying that no people have so much
local pride as the Californians, and none are so
discontented when they have to move to another
state or country, much of their attachment to
the land being caused by the geniality of its sky.
Yuma has three hundred cloudless days in a
year ; Los Angeles two hundred and sixty ;

186 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
New York, one hundred and twenty ; London,
sixty. From this point guide-books were cast to one
side, the compilers, whose information had being
growing more and more scanty, being quite out
of their depth. The raUway had only been
open about twelve months, so that the
inevitable latest editions which follow the track
of the steam-horse, and so penetrate into the
new country which its advent opens up to more
primitive modes of travel, were not yet in
existence or had not come into our possession.

DAY THIRTY-EIGHT.
The matutinal feeding station was Tucson
{pronounced tugon), the capital of Arizona. Here
we were in the second oldest town in North
America, and found ourselves called " tender
foots," a local soubriquet for all who are not
dwellers in the land. Swarthy Mexicans now
mingled profusely in the crowd, and Texan
vaqueros- — the cow-boys of evU fame who herd
the cattle and cause great trouble to intrepid
sheriffs — sauntered about in their broad hats, red
shirts, pantaloons stuffed into their boots, and
big spurs.
Old Spanish names and customs were now rife,
and we found from conversations by the way that
here, as all over the States, the modern Americans
revel in anything ancient. Old sUver, old
lace, and family heirlooms of all kinds are
highly prized, and someone who had married a

188 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
descendant of a scapegrace English lord from one
of the New England States was looked up to on
that account as quite the haut ton.
But revenons a nos moutons. The cars were
very sparsely peopled. We had never had
many passengers since leaving Madera, recent
robberies of trains by desperadoes, and the
unsettled state of the Indian population, having
made the route temporarily unpopular. A short
time previously the engineer and fireman had
been kUled by a gang of robbers, and the treasure^
in the express- van had only been saved by the
heroic conduct of the passengers in driving off
the marauders. Travellers had not always come
off so well, even on lines in much more civilized
portions of the country. The alarming and
famUiar cry of " hands up " had not long since
been uttered by masked thieves boarding the
cars at stations in the Eastern States, and
panic-stricken passengers had to submit to their
pockets and valises being rifled, for if anyone
is seen to lower a hand to grasp , a weapon or
hide any valuables, by the " rule of the road "
he is a dead man. It was some comfort to
know that the molesting of travellers is not the
chief object of these " boys," as they are play-

DAY THIRTY-EIGHT. 189
fully termed. The " express " is the car their
delicate attentions are mainly directed to, and
it is only in cases of disappointment in that
direction that a divertissement among- the
parlour and sleeping cars is indulged in.
A male compagnon de voyage asked me in
some trepidation whether I was aware that
there were only twenty-five persons of our
gender in the train. I could only reply that in
the records of recent car-robberies it appeared
that the ladies, of whom we had , a goodly
number as body-guard, had always figured as-
the braver part of the company. However, we
got safely and punctually through our journey.
The train the following day was nineteen hours
late ; the reason we never learnt.
. At Wilcox station were groups of soldiers and
excited civUians. One of the latter bore
evidence of recent fighting, and it transpired
that in a scrimmage with the redskins that
morning, three whites had been left dead on
the field. The merits of this case we failed to
ascertain, but one of the " civilized " survivors
was very tipsy and honoured our car with his
presence for a few miles, vociferating that he
•jvas " not killed yet ! "

190 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
This day's progress was through wilderness,
but something less of desert than that passed
through the previous day, the chief production
of nature being cacti of every shape and size.
One hundred and fifty varieties are said to
strew the plains, chief among which is the
" boss " cactus, whose prickly column stands as
high as the top of the cars.
An instance of what can be achieved where
water is obtainable at a reasonable depth, and
the soil is susceptible to irrigation, was furnished
by a square patch within a fence which en
closed all manner of fruit trees and greenery,
whUe aU around spread the cruel yellow sand.
The proprietor had evidently struck a supply of
water, that could be raised at a cost low enough
to render it payable, sufficient for his little
" claim." His windmUl (when there was -wind)
perfiarmed its function of working the pump of
the artesian well, and trenches conveyed the
welcome fluid to the roots of thirsty trees
and plants.
At Lordsburg, just within the territory of
New Mexico, were encamped some soldiers, and
at WUna was quite a large camp of cavalry, the
officers of which visited us and requisitioned.

DAY THIRTY-EIGHT. 191
in a friendly way, our latest newspapers. They
had chased some Indians across the Mexican
frontier hard by, and the troops of the sister
republic had kUled a hundred of the " vermin,"
as they were politely termed. Twenty-five
wretched-looking prisoners of war we saw, but
Loto, the chief of the rebel Apaches, was stUl
at large.

DAY THIRTY-NINE.
We had entered the almost exactly square
Territory of New Mexico at its south-west
corner, from Arizona, and the map showed that
our course would take us diagonally across fhe
Territory untU, emerging at its north-east
¦extremity, we cut through a portion of Colorado
before entering the State of Kansas.
Although we had now left the neighbourhood
of the Mexican frontier, and the thick of the
disturbance with the Indians who originaUy
possessed the land (and had lately carried on
a seesaw dodging business across the boundary-
line between the two republics untU a mutual
arrangement had been come to between the
two Governments as to joint action in the
annihUation of the " savages") we frequently
met train-loads of United States soldiery bound
upon their errand of extirpation.

DAY THIRTY-NINE. 193
The first look-out to-day was upon an Indian
town, the Pueblos evidently not being such
wanderers as other tribes we had encountered.
There were substantially-fenced enclosures filled
with cattle, and some of the squaws were actually
engaged in tilling patches of ground. The
houses were square, with sharp edges, no
windows, and with chimnies ; the whole made
of clay — the " adobe " buUdings of ages past.
One would have thought that heavy rain would
wash away the structure, or considerably round
off the corners ; but no, many of the habitations
were a hundred years old, and showed no signs
of dilapidation !
During the forenoon we left our main-line
train at Lamy, a station so caUed after the good
Roman Catholic archbishop of the see, and took
a branch line which brought us by an hour's
ride due north to the oldest city in North
America, Santa F^, the City of the Holy
Faith. Stranger feelings came over us on arrival here
than perhaps at any other point of our pilgrimage.
A raUway station and modern omnibus were as
incongruous here as are the steam launches upon
the canals of Venice and the steam-horse

194 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
shrieking under the minarets of Seraglio Point
at Stamboul. At first sight it had appeared.
that it must be one of the dead cities of the past
that "vve were nearing, for no signs of life were
visible about the yet distant cluster of earth
hovels that came in view. As we rounded a.
bend in the track more substantial structures
of stone and of wood were disclosed, and
now, as we were driven through the narrow
streets, we observed that a blending of ancients
and modern was tardily taking place.
Old Indian customs and modes of living were
as yet rather modified than discontinued, and an
air of Astec-Indian, Spanish-Mexican romance^
pervaded the piazza as we approached the
Palace Hotel. Buildings of adobe (locally caUed
dobey) were even to-day in course of construc
tion, the thick walls of this tenacious clay
keeping out the external cold or heat in a
manner peculiarly adapted to the climate. The
flat roofs, covered with the same material, bore
testimony more telling still than that of the
walls to its imperviousness to the deluges of
rain prev^aUing at some seasons of the year. Two
old churches are buUt of it, as also is the^
cathedral. The walls of the latter, after three

DAY THIRTY-NINE. 195
centuries' existence, were being encased in a
modernized structure of stone, the completion of
which was, or is, to witness the demolition of the
adobe, hallowed by time and the sacred, rites
performed within its shelter through generations
of struggling Christians in this far-away outpost
of -their religion.
At the date of our visit not a single machine
driven by steam-power had obtruded into this
medieval community, excepting the locomotive
which brought the cars to the dep6t twice daily,
even the two inevitable diurnal newspapers
being printed by hand power. These racy
journals provide pabulum for the population of
close upon eight thousand souls, and to meet
the convenience of the five thousand Spanish-
speaking of these inhabitants, several columns
are devoted to articles in that language.
Those houses that are built, of wood, or
" frame-houses " as they are called, are made
¦with piazzas, and involve the old Spanish method
of having to go out of doors to get from one
room into ano-ther.
Being seven thousand feet above the sea, the
rarified air had upon us the ordinary effects upon
visitors from the level, such as noises in the
P

196 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
ears, disturbance of respiration, and general
exhUaration. In the evening we went to hear a lecture by
a Majjor somebody (every other man is a general,
or has some mUitary or Salvation Army title)
upon the Rhine and the Alps. It was time to
commence -when we arrived at the "hall," but
an audience of only two individuals showed the
backward state of Santa Y6 society, if their
desire for information about foreign parts was
p.ny criterion. A dollar a-piece seemed rather
stiff,, so we declined to double the company
and the receipts by our presence. Soon, how
ever, the door-keeper accosted us in the street
while we were gazing at a seductive display of
Mexican filagree sUver jewellery in a shop
window, and said that if we would only go back
we should both hear the lecture for one dollar.
By this time about a score of people — ^being
presumably the elite of the capital of New
Mexico — ^had g-ssembled, and the lecturer treated
his subject with a wealth of words and descrip
tive power that was a genuine treat, and proved
himself the cosmopolitan of which our American
cousins hold up to us Englishmen a much
needed example.

DAY FORTY.
After washing off the accumulated dust of the
desert in the singularly soft waters of Santa F^,
we jumped into the omnibus and were soon
transferred to the branch train, and from it into
•the cars of the Atchison Topeka and Santa F^
RaUroad Company at Lamy.
We were still on the same elevated table
land, but trees became larger and more numerous,
cattle were seen grazing upon grass that was
nearer to green than any that we had seen for
a thousand miles, and which would doubtless,
with the rains due in the foUowing month,
assume a verdant colour and richness.
We would fain have sojumed a whUe at Las
Vegas, where the traditional Hot Springs of the
doughty red warriors of old have been taken in
hand by a Boston company, who have built a

198 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERTCA..
splendid hotel and bath-house The twenty-
two springs, ranging up to a temperature of
one hundred and forty degrees, together with;
the salubrious mountain air, cause this to be a
favourite recruiting spot for the jaded Yankees of
the Eastern States.
Settlements grew thicker, and neat white
tents dotted the plains, betokening a greater
prosperity than the ricketty huts and mud
hovels recently passed by. Trains of waggons,.
with their canvas covers, were wending south
ward and westward, drawn by powerful mules ;;
our track running on the same line as the
old Santa F^ traU, a great highway bearing
volumes of exciting stories of many a desperate
and bloody struggle between honest pioneers-
and savage natives, and more scouncbeUy white
marauders, until quite recent times.
As evening drew near, the twinkling camp
fires, where three or four of these " ships of the
desert " were brought up in a cluster for the
night, told a tale of a meal being consumed, and
possibly merry hour spent over the embers
before turning-in for the well-earned slumber
requisite for the early start and toiling progress.
of the morrow.

DAY FORTY. 199
Another kind of emigrant travelling claimed
attention to-night, for at a station where we
made a considerable stoppage for our engine to
take water and fuel, there were the cars of an
^emigrant raUway train, shunted by sections into
different sidings. A daily train of this kind is
run upon both the northern and southern routes
across the Continent, the time by the latter
being nine days from Kansas City to San
Francisco, as against the five days taken by the
express. Each car is a complete house upon
wheels, and the accommodation wUl compare
with that of the palace cars, as that of the
•steerage of a first-class Atlantic steam-ship
with the luxuries of the saloon.
Sunset was succeeded by a tremendous hail
storm ; and heavy masses of cloud, Uluminated
by bright flashes of lightning every instant,
begat fears of a tempestuous night. However,
as darkness deepened, the stars appeared bright
and clear overhead in the streak of sky visible
from the depth of the Raton Pass ; and peak
alfter peak of snow-claid " Rockies " occasionally
appeared, like spires against the heavens, as our
locomotive, assisted by another powerful monster
pushing behind, dragged us upwards towards

200 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
the Raton tunnel, where, deep in the bowels of
the everlasting hUls — ^the grand old Rocky
Mountains — ^we commenced our downward grade
into the State of Colorado.

DAY FORTY-ONE.
We had cut off the south-east corner of
Colorado in the night, and passed the old town
of Trinidad in the darkness, and early morning
disclosed La Junta, where several of ^ our
passengers left us for the branch line leading
into the heart of the Centennial State, whose
mining, and agricultural successes combine with
its wild and attractive scenery to draw visitors
and permanent inhabitants. We had left the
region of " Territories " and entered again into
full blown '" States." .Colorado arrived at that
dignity in the year of the attainment of the ¦
centenary of the United States, when the great
exhibition was held at PhUadelphia — hence its
complimentary title. While such members of
the Union as New Mexico and Utah are in the
embryo condition of territories, their " repre- ¦

202 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
sentatives " are appointed for them by the
Central Government,' and sit in the House of
Representatives at Washington, but have no
votes. This arrangement might commend itself
to our British Parliament as a desirable one to
apply to certain districts of Ireland, until their
good behaviour again warranted their re-
admission to electoral privUeges.
While upon the subject of the respective
parliamentary institutions of the British Empire
and the American Republic, it may be noted
that the complaints sometimes heard of the
numerical weight of lawyers in our House of
Commons, has very little cause compa.red with
the number of members of the legal profession
who take part in making the laws which they
have to administer in the country of Uncle Sam.
There are fifty-five lawyers amongst the seventy-
six Senators ; and of the two hundred and
ninety three members of Congress, no less than
a hundred and seventy-seven — ^nearly three-
fifths of the whole — are of the same fraternity.
At eight o'clock in the forenoon we were
fairly into the State of Kansas, and passed
through the middle of it during the ensuing
day and night, following the flat banks of the

DAY FORTY-ONE. 203
here broad and sluggish Arkansas river — in
some places reaching a width of as much as
forty miles. '
Hundreds of horses now alternated with the
countless numbers of cattle and sheep feeding
upon the vast flats of rich grazing land. Again
extensive irrigation works were observed, and
eastern progress opened out a country of higher ,
and higher cultivation. Distinct boundaries of
farms could be traced, and the dividing of tracts
of land by fences of wire and sawn wood instead
of the rough landmarks of the further west
betokened a return towards more __ populous
regions. Farmers have gro-wn immensely wealthy in
this productive State ; in fact its boast of being
the greatest agricultural state in the Union
would seem to have good foundation, its pro
gress and development being without parallel
even in this go-ahead country. Next to
Massachusetts it may also be looked up to
in point of intellectual distinction, for men and
women of culture and progressive ideas have
located themselves here on arrival from other
countries, finding congenial minds and homes ;
and Kansas ranks as a leader among the States

204 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
where liberty of thought and action are
concerned. Sturdy Scottish-bred people abound and
British enterprise has added largely to the
successful cattle raising and corn growing
industries of the district. There is a thriving
British Association whose head-quarters is at
the Clifton Hotel, Florence, where the com
mittee meet for business and social purposes
on the first Saturday in every month, and
hospitality and information are cheerfully
accorded to fellow-countrymen passing through.
There is plenty of sport to be had, McPherson
Lake containing fabulous quantities of wUd fowl :
grouse, quaU, and prairie-duck being as plentiful
as the most rapacious slaughterer of things with
"wings could possibly desire.

DAY FORTY-TWO.
AU hands were aroused at four o'clock in the
niorning to prepare for going off the cars at
Kansas City at five. Waving corn fields arid
rich pastures now met the eye, and in place of
the, young, artificially -watered trees that had
been planted about the new houses on the level
land at the western part of the State, we now
had old woods of oak and other trees. In many
places, however, these had been cleared away,
and the stumps were visible among the green
ears of wheat. For the first time for thousands
of mUes the railway was once more in places.
fenced in. Even in the most populous parts of
America this is by no means a matter of course,
and the immense slaughter at crossings (reported
for the year 1880 as twenty-seven hundred
persons) is to a great extent accounted for by the

306 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
fact that the whole network of railroads is one
huge "level crossing."
Kansas City (which, by the way, is not in the
State of that name, but just within the borders
of Missouri) is one of the most striking examples
of quick growth in a quick-growing nation.
Where, a very few years since, the "untutored
savage" was being driven backward by the ever-
encroaching Anglo-Saxon, a handsome city of
sixty thousand inhabitants now stands ; and its
solid and graceful raUway station, its public
buUdings and churches, would do credit to a
town twice its size. True, the central and
western cities have had an advantage over those
on the Atlantic seaboard, inasmuch as they were
laid out and, their sanitary arrangements planned
at a time when modern ideas in these respects
had taken root ; and the municipal authorities
of New York and PhUadelphia might do worse
than take a picnic to St. Louis and Kansas City
and return home to act upon some of the lessons
in road-making and kindred matters to be learnt
there. After a stroll through the principal streets we
took the Chicago, Burlington, and Quincey
Railroad, one of the four direct lines between

DAY FORTY-TWO. 207
the cities of Kansas and Chicago, and crossed
the Missouri by a bridge of over a quarter of a
mUe in length.
It was more to our advantage to be travelling
in these regions in the year of grace, 1882, than
in the dark ages of 1881, for twice during that
year was the neighbourhood the scene of train-
wrecking by the notorious robbers Jesse James
and his gang, who for twenty years had been
outlawed, but remained at large. Only fifteen
days before our visit had Jesse James been
kUled, and his body handed over to the
authorities by a "pal," Robert Ford, in con
sideration of ten thousand doUars and a free
pardon. This same Ford had been lionized at-
the theatres of Chicago but a few nights before,
and this morning we saw him on the platform at
Kansas in the company of the sheriff, being on
his trial for a murder to which the amnesty did
not extend. Hopes were entertained that he
would be hung for it, but it seemed more likely
that it would be brought in " murder of the
second degree," as American juries are loath to
cause the death penalty to be put in force.
The brother, Frank James, and other of the
"boys" were yet uncaught, although some of

¦208 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
their associates had surrendered with Ford,
undertaking to assist in the capture of the
remainder of the murdering and thieving pests. ,
The day after our seeing Ford he was sentenced
to be hanged, on which day (19th of May) he
received from the Governor of Missouri an uncon
ditional pardon. Harper's Monthly Magazine
for October, 1882, in a foot-note to an article on
RaUways in Mexico, gives an interesting epitome
of the doings of the Jameses — Jesse being
credited at the age of thirty-seven with one
hundred and twenty-five lives to his own hand.
The only material difference between Harper's
account of the sequel and that heard by us on the
spot, is that the former states that Ford's arrest
and trial were at the instance of Mrs. James, "for
murder"; but, although the inference is that the
murder of her husband is meant, the "note" is
capable of a reading compatible with our in
formation. The instructive article mentioned
-contains the following : " There have been more
train robberies perpetrated, and property of
greater value taken by highwaymen in the
United States during the past six years, than in
Mexico, with every allowance for the difference
in the territorial area of the two countries."

DAY FORTY-TWO. 209
The long immunity of the James Brothers
and their co-rascals, and the unsatisfactory
ending likely to ensue, add little to the credit
or 'possible future efficiency of the criminal
administration of what may be called the Home
States. Farther away, the sense of self-pre
servation of orderly citizens occasionally steps
in, and Judge Lynch supplements the puny
efforts of ordinary law. Down about Santa F6
we saw a report in a newspaper that a notorious
Charlie somebody had killed " one too many,"
and being again in custody would likely
"stretch hemp " this time, either at the hands
of the sheriff or some other friends of order.
At another plaqe a gaol had been broken into,
and a wretch, who there was some fear might
get off, was summarily disposed of from a
neighbouring tree, to the vindication of the
public conscience and saving to the state ex
chequer. As a specimen of what names of places may
get to— the Saint Joseph of this neighbourhood
has got to St. Joe, and then the "e" has got
knocked off', and you see railway trucks with
the inscription " Hannibal and St. Jo R. R.
upon them. Finally the " St." has gone by

210 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
the board, and the city rejoices in the curt
appeUation of Jo.
The Knights of Pythias, of the Ancient Order
of Oddfellows, had been holding high carnival
at Leavenworth, and were to-day returnirig
home. Prizes of many dollars had been given
for the best " drUl," and that fact and their
military-looking uniform, led to the supposition
that the friendly societies hereabouts go in for
calisthenics. The get-up was very imposing,
being a dark blue tunic with white belt, and
black cocked hat with white plumes.
We. crossed the broad Mississippi in lUinois;
about a hundred mUes above St. Louis, and
spent a few hours in the State capital, Quincey,
a prosperous city built of stone and brick.
Once more on board the cars, to while away
the evening, I bought a book, Among the
Americans (there is always a merchant in the
train with the newest books and all manner of"
goods), a Chicago edition of a work by Mr
George Jacob Holyoake — author of publications
called The Reasoner, the aim of which is to prove
that revealed religion is all humbug, and A
Religion which gives Heaven no trouble, a book
forming one of the "People's Popular Library," in.

DAY FORTY-TWO. 211
such company as The Law of Population, by
Mrs. Besant, and the Impeachment of the
House of Brunswick, by C. Bradlaugh. It was
edifying to read how he was fed with fruit from
off a church altar ; how the pulpits of popular
preachers were placed at his disposal ; how
great "thinkers" came thousands of mUes to see
him ; and how the big Beecher himself, seeing
Mr. H. in the congregation, exhibited " a
masterpiece of facUity of resource," by introduc
ing "as an inseparable part of narration " the
following reverent and becoming assertion —
" The third subject upon which Christ would
have spoken, foreseeing as He must have done
the future needs of society, would have been
co-operation" (!) The quotations are from Mr
Holyoake's book, and co-operation is his twin
panacea (with the teaching of The Reasoner)
for the troubles of modern man. We had
seen in the Mormon cities the wonderful
sign-boards over " the stores " — ZION'S
CO-OPERATIVE STORES: HOLINESS TO
THE LORD — with a cute looking eye (the
" eye to business " doubtless) depicted in the
centre. This would make a good motto and
trade-mark foi' the author of the atheistical

212 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
works and preacher from Christian pulpits. At
this time of day scarcely anyone wUl deny to
Mr Holyoake the right to his opinions, and
their possible righteousness ; but it shows an
extraordinary " breadth " of American " re
ligions " that the writer of the books mentioned
above (which I have read) should be able to
record — " I was asked in the morning to meet
the teachers of the Sunday School (Wesleyan)
and make a little speech to them. Afterwards
I was asked to attend the Sunday Schools and
make another speech to the pupUs. This con
stantly occurred to me in other churches ; the
object was to enable the chUdren to hear and
see the stranger who had come amongst them."
It must have been very delightful to be
breakfasted, receptioned, f6ted, and interviewed
as is feelingly and gratefuUy described ; the
bliss of it could only be approached by that of
another occupier of rostrums, the Rev. Newman
Hall, who in About America, tells us how he
frequently found, upon presenting himself at
the dread cashier's-desk of the hotels that it had
been "made all right" by some admiring friends.
Alas ! such good fortune was not for us ; no
luscious gfapes of altar-offerings were ours, and

DAY FORTY-TWO. 213
our charges (we never could get a bUl) were
extracted from us by an ungrateful nation, to
the uttermost cent.
A Chicago newspaper, bought (by one of
those coincidences inaptly termed rare) at the
same time as the above-named books, stated
that " one hundred pounds had been voted
hj Mr Gladstone's Government to Mr. G. J.
Holyoake for the purpose of reporting as to the
Emigration of British operatives to the United
.States." Evidently the . " reasoning " author
,and his patron statesmen are en rapport upon
.more subjects than one, for in the work above
referred to, the former declares that " the
English people regarded the Zulu and Afghan
invasions as the last wars of the Pentateuch."
Possibly he will be prepared to assert that his
¦countrymen look upon the Egyptian "invasion "
.as the commencement, of the mUlennium.
While extoUing those institutions of the
'Great Republic which he idolized, he comes
.across -the awkward subject of free trade.
The way in which congregations hung upon his
lips must have given him golden opportunities
•of impressing upon them, what he asserts, that
¦"we see free trade to be as much to their

214 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
interest as to ours." Uncle Sam is too old a
bird to be caught with such " chaff" ; and it
betokens an inclination to say smooth things
and avoid unpleasant topics, instead of a manly
boldness in pointing out the bad as well as the .
good, when we read — " Although a partizan of
free trade, I elected never to aUude to it, having
discerned before I went that the best advocacy
of free trade in America is to say nothing about
it, Americans being apt to believe that when
an Englishman recommends it to them he does
so because it is a national interest of his own."
Copious extracts are given from speeches by
orators espousing the principles professed by
the author of the book, some of which speeches
must make them and him feel very foolish in
the light of events which have since transpired i
e.g. — " These forty miUions of people have at
last achieved what no race, no nation, no age,
hitherto succeeded in doing. We have founded
a Republic on the infinite suffrage of the
mUlions. We have that serene faith in God
that it is safe to trust a man with the rights He
gave him. . . . Our fathers announced
this sublime, and, as it seemed then, foolhardy
declaration, that God intended all men to be

DAY FORTY-TWO. ' 215
free and equal — all men, without restriction,
without limit." This was spoken in Boston
by Mr WendeU Phillips. How nice it reads
alongside of a paragraph in the newspaper
already quoted — "Discriminations against colour
are becoming alarmingly frequent. A coloured
colonel was refused quarters at the Revere
Hotel in Boston ; and a coloured clergyman
was denied the privUege of sitting down to
dinner at the regular table on a Hudson river
steamboat." Theories as to equality of races and nations are
all very fine, but let our friends practise first
and boast afterwards. The treatment of the
Indians, the continued refusal of the rights of
citizenship to immigrants from China, together
with the legislative interference with their free
dom to come in, are only instances among many
that the liberty of this vaunted Republic is -to
a very great extent liberty in name only.
Since Columbus unceremoneously took pos
session of the land of the copper-coloured natives
in the name of Spain, it is said that five hundred
millions of. dollars scarcely covers the cost in
money, not to reckon the lives, with which have
been attempted the solution of the problem.

216 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
what to do with the Indians ; and the methods
employed do not yet point to the simple solution,
" treat him like a white man."
The Chinese — dUigent, faithful, peace-loving
people — who with pick and shovel have buUt
railroads, tUled fields, and worked coal pits to
the benefit of the Americans, are thrifty, and
although, as I have pointed out, not eligible in
the generous scope of United States law to
become citizens, have paid an enormous amount
of taxes to help to support the Government of
the country. True, they have objectionable
habits, and special vices ; and so have the
immigrants from other countries, who, however,
are allowed to have votes and can coerce those
dependent upon them for political support to
commit the nation to the short-sighted policy
of closing up a source of labour-supply that
conflicts with the interest of the trades-unionist
and his " leaders."
Strikes are getting to be very frequent, and
to be truly American they have, of course, to be
on an enormous scale. The protracted struggles
between capital and labour in two great fields
of the coal and iron industries during the present
year of 1882, have caused serious interference to

DAY FORTY-TWO. 217
commerce, and have considerably opened the
eyes of thoughtful citizens as to what things
may come to if free trade in labour is to be pre
vented by Acts of Congress.

DAY FORTY-THREE.
The approach to Chicago by raU is, simUar
to that of many large commercial towns in
England. Here and there are palatial residences,
and weU-treed suburbs and level roads border
the railway. Nearer to the end of our ride,
warehouses, distant masts of shipping, and high
grain elevators crowded the view, there being
every evidence that we were indeed entering a
mighty mercantile city ; and so it proved to be,
for of all the inhabited places of the earth
affording reminders of Jonah's gourd, Chicago is
the most striking.
Like many places of older growth, she has
benefited in architectural and sanitary respects
by what was a dire disaster at the time — a
great conflagration. Here is a veritable Phoenix
begotten of the ashes. The structures destroyed
by the 1871 fire have been replaced by buUdings

DAY FORTY-THREE. 219
that look to be everlasting, and the grand
thoroughfares have the roadways paved with
wooden blocks as in our own towns, and the
sidewalks were, at the time of our going through,
having their wooden planking rapidly superseded
by flagging, the like of which could not be found
in the world. MUes of it were already laid in
State Street and the other magnificent streets •
parallel with, and intersecting at right angles,
that splendid artery of traffic — huge blocks of
stone, twelve feet by ten, and a foot thick,
securely set, and needing no curbstone.
The number and size of good shops is not
equalled in the States. A book dep6t which we
patronised was a perfect library, and museum of
-books ; its systematic arrangement and the
scholastic attainments of the male and female
attendants being nothing less than wonderful.
It would have taken days to go through its
well-contrived stands upon the ground floor and
in the numerous galleries.
The situation of Chicago is undoubtedly a
super-advantage to it, and, with the exception
that it is not one of the direct receiving ports of
immigrants from across the seas, it has aU the
elements of a capital in a higher degree than

220 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
New York, and will one day run her close in
being practically the metropolis. '
Its name is more mouth-fUling than those of
most of the cities in the States, the inhabitants
giving each syllable its full expression — Shick-
ar-go. You would as soon give Gloucester,
Leicester, etc., the sounding of all their letters
as you would most of the United States cities.
You say Washn'n, Boss'n, Bolt'mor, Nu Orl'ns,
and so forth ; but Chicago, like San Francisco,
must have the dignity of every syllable being
fully sounded.
The "dummy" cars which we met with in San
Francisco, used principally for the hUls, were in
Chicago in general use on the flat, and trains of
three cars each went noiselessly along the
tramways with the greatest ease. (The word
noiselessly applies to the motion only, for a bell
was sounded when required to give warning of
approach.) The public-houses had some curious signs —
" Pass If You Can," and " Grand Opening,"
being noticeable. The numbering of the houses
was appaling— "George Ossley, 4444, Stockyard
Street " suggesting that the shortest way to give
the number would be "four fours."

DAY FORTY-THREE. 221
A drive to Lincoln Park took us past the
harbour works, and along the shores of Lake
Michigan. Quite large steam and sailing vessels
were visible, the sheet of water being nearly
four hundred miles long and a hundred mUes
across, and an extensive trade being carried on
between its ports and those of the chain of
great lakes and rivers extending away to the
ocean itself. Piers and lighthouses are buUt,
and the waves lave a beach of white sand and
shingle, just as on the borders of a boundless-
sea. A good slice of the foreshore has been
reclaimed, and the promenades and drives are
rendered more enjoyable by their contiguity to
the water.
The water of the lake is used unfiltered by
the inhabitants. The waterworks are of ornate
construction and of ingenious contrivance, but
their function is simply the pumping and
distributing of the indispensible fluid. To avoid
the impurities of the shore a tower has been
placed two mUes out, where the water is drawn
into a culvert laid along the bottom of the lake.
Even with this precaution, in times of heavy
flood the filth from inland is carried out and
causes a temporary fouling of the supply. The

222 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
smaU Chicago river was formerly contributory to
this fouling, and was also a source of danger to
the health of the city, being nearly on a level
with the lake, and almost stagnant. It was
found, however, that by cutting a canal thirty
miles in length a useful water highway could
be opened out, and that the waters of the trouble
some Chicago would then have a faU towards
the Illinois river and thence into the Mississippi.
How the inland districts liked this incursion of
the sewage of a large community we did not
hear, but learnt that endeavours were being
made by those interested in Chicago, to have
the canal made larger at national expense, under
the pretext that it would prove a valuable
means of communication between the Mississippi
and the northern lakes in case of war.
There are seven public parks, the trees in
which are of ,a goodly size for a mushroom city ;
and the landscape gardening displayed is a
perfect marvel. At the time of our visit the
tulip was the flower of the day, and a gorgeous
display there was.
Beautifully smooth roadways are kept up,
with notices prominent — " This road is reserved
for fast driving." If this had been supplemented

DAY FORTY-THREE. 223-
by an announcement that drivers who proceeded
at such a rate that they and their horses and
vehicles could not be seen would be prosecuted,
then I might have been able to describe what
took place in that paradise of Jehus. The road
for " slow " driving was at a lower level than,
and parallel with, the other ; and we poor
mortals who were " by the hour " felt and
heard, rather than saw, the flashing past of the
stream of rapid ones. We persuaded our
driver to urge his animal to a speed a little
more from a stand-stUl, and then we could just
catch a glimpse of the whirling wheels and
light spider forms of the carriages, the animated-
faces and outstretched arms of the handlers of
the " lines," and the elevated heads and reach
ing strides of the " steppers ; " untU the sight
became almost as exciting to us as to the
charioteers and fiery steeds themselves.

DAY FORTY-FOUR.
It would be impossible here to enter into
descriptions of all the public buUdings of
Chicago, but it may be mentioned that the
City Hall is reckoned the third finest in the
country — the Capitol at Washington and the
State House at Albany ranking before it.
Thirteen swivel bridges, revolving on piers in
the middle of the river, connect the principal
streets, and are opened and shut with great
ease and rapidity by hydraulic machinery.
Michigan Avenue and other splendid
boidevards are lined for miles with hand
some stone residences and churches. The
trees and strips of sward are well attended
to and watered ; and, with the flower gardens
attached to almost every house and public
institution away from the business centres,

DAY FORTY-FOUR. 225
leave a very agreeable reminiscence with visitors.
In •the afternoon we left by the Michigan
Central Railroad to perform the remainder ot
our United States travel, to Detroit ; where,
crossing the river of that name, the train enters
Canada. Before stepping again upon British soil, a
subject that had often been approached in my
note book — the remarks as often being erased —
must at length occupy a few lines, viz., the
American women. They are highly educated, for
their respective stations in life, and are fully
able to take care of themselves. The middle
classes have more of book learning than the
upper ten thousand in England. We heard
discussions upon the binomial theory, the
nebular, hypothesis, and the use of the euphonic
vowel in various languages, by females carrying
their own babies; and travelled with ladies
returning from Cdnferences, Conventions, and
the like, whose animated conversation disclosed
their thorough mastery alike of the matters in
hand and of the mild male members who
accompanied them. To converse with one of
them was a genuine pleasure — as an intellectual

226 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
treat. One could admire them, revere them :
nay, almost worship them : but love them, never.
We asked ourselves how they ever did get men
to love them, excepting their own fathers and
brothers. Practical, passionless creatures ; they
seemed to constitute a third sex. Where were
the girls ? We never saw one. We did meet
with young ladies of twelve and thirteen, with
jewel-laden fingers, and with vocabularies , of
ponderous dictionary words ; but, like their
mothers and elder sisters, they were such
superior beings that one longed for a lassie that
was not so very clever — one who had something
yet unlearnt, that she could ask a fellow to tell
her about. Even the shallower minded, dressed-
to-death, ladies of New York, have a tremendous
share of " gumption "; and in the energy they
throw into their ravishing toUets make up for
their never walking a yard when they can get
into a carriage. They lack " temperament " ;
and, although as a rule tall and of good gait,
" their physique is not generous, not abundant,"
as an American author expresses it.
At home we have kindly ladies of all ages up
to four score and over, who, if they do know as
much or more than men, are as merciful as their

DAY FORTY-FOUR. 227
position is strong, and let man, poor fellow, feel
that after all he is lord of creation. But not
so in the United States. One felt a depressing
sense of inferiority, and the male population
there appeared to be under the same cloud.
W -Tf ^ ^
A tribute must be paid to the influence of
New England Puritanism to the remotest corner
of the States. Its leven spreads everywhere. The
Sabbath as a rule is better observed than in any
other country but Scotland, and wherever you
go there is sure to be within a distance relatively
short, according to the density of the population,
some godly man " from Boston " who as a
minister, or school-master, is looked up to and
has an ennobling influence even in the roughest
quarters. True there are very many dark places of
iniquity, but had not the cloak of the Pilgrim
Fathers fallen upon many and worthy successors
the spuitual and moral condition of the country .
would have been a sorry one indeed.
T?" -TV- -TP TV-
' As to the resources of the Union, that is a
subject a hurried treatment of which might be
misleading, but as a matter of history it may be

228 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
stated that in April, 1882, one hundred and
eight thousand immigrants from Europe arrived
at New York alone. The arrival of the popu
lation of a large city every month, with mouths
to be fed, is a serious matter. The mining
districts absorb many, and the food-producing
north sends her wheat, poultry, vegetables,
etc., to many newly settled districts, as well as
to some southern States, where cotton is grown
to the exclusion of foodstuffs sufficient for the
population. The fact that a season has already
occurred when potatoes and other edibles were
freely imported from Europe, and the usual
immense export of provisions to England almost
entirely ceased for months, taken in connexion
with the rapid pouring-in of inhabitants, may
well cause anxious attention to be directed to
the trade statistics of the next few years.
*4t •ii' ¦it' .it-
-Tr Tr Tp ^
Another matter for thought is that there are
very few young men learning trades in the
States. The trades-unions render apprenticeship
unworkable, and the supply of craftsmen has
been, so far, kept up from abroad. The mechanics
who cross the Atlantic are of Europe's best ;
and, untrammelled by oldfashioned fetters, their

DAY FORTY-FOUR. 229
dexterity, individuality, and energy find con
genial conditions in a new country, their
development producing the wonders of scientific
mechanism in which America is giving us the

DAY FORTY-FIVE.
A quiet Sunday at the Clifton House Hotel
on the Canadian side of the FaUs of Niagara,
gave us an opportunity of taking in the tout
ensemble of the world-famed cataracts. Our
first impression was that there was compara
tively very little noise, and that the masses of
failing water were not so very enormous after
all, but as hour after hour we gazed out of our
window, or strolled along towards the Horse
Shoe FaU, the thing grew upon us, and it&
mighty magnificence became known to our
senses. In the evening we formed part of the congre
gation at a little sanctuary of the Church of
England — Christ Church — and heard a sermon
touching upon the state of things in Ireland
preached by a stalwart Irish clergyman, whose
weighty admonitions would never reach the-
subscribers to the baneful societies whose
existence and actions he contemned.

DAY FORTY-SIX.
The big walterworks were stUl at it : there
was the American Fall, on the other side of the
river, just opposite our balcony, thundering
away the same as yesterday ; and casting our
eyes to the right we observed the Canadian, or
Horse Shoe Fall, still in the fuU fling of business,
not showing the least signs of an early suspension
of operations.
Having a week's work to crowd into a day,
we took an early advantage of daylight and
crossed the Suspension Bridge to the American
side. The bridge has but one carriage way, so that
two vehicles cannot pass. It is much longer
than its sister structure at Clifton, in England,
but is not nearly so high above the water. For
grace and lightness it is unsurpassed, and we
obtained favourable views of both falls in
crossing it. Later on we ascended one of its

232 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
towers by the elevator within, the extra hundred
and twenty feet altitude giving a corresponding
extension of the prospect.
Sight-seeing by machinery is now one of the
features of travel, and very soon doubtless the
Rigi raUway and the Niagara elevators will be
foUowed by a " lift " that will drop stage and
passengers right down into the Yosemite valley,
and tethered balloons that wUl admit of the
crater of Vesuvius being safely viewed "without.
the unpleasantness of being carried to the.
summit upon the crossed arms of two odourous
bearers. The absence of pedlars, advertisements, and
other kindred defilements which we expected
to find was gratifying. Possibly the notoriety
that the "the falls" obtained as a grand spot of
nature particularly disfigured by greed of
Mammon, had led the authorities to cause the.
e^vU to be minimized. There was no lack,
however, of devices for extracting coin from
visitors for proffered services of guides, rentage
for a few moments' occupancy of points of vant
age, and for articles of vertu made by Indians
and otherwise.
At the same time it" must be admitted that'

DAY FORTY-SIX. 233
the four miles on each side of the river, from the
beginning of the Rapids towards Lake Erie, to
the Whirlpool away below the railway bridge,
have been well taken in hand and every point
made and kept up in a condition favourable to
the pleasure and comfort of the ^multitudinous
visitors. Pity it is that such a locality , should
not be state-endowed by the Americans on the
one side and the Canadians on the other, for it
¦ is very irritating to be met every few minutes,
in response to the enquiry " How much for
two," with the answer " Whan dollar" given
with as much indifference as is thrown into the
reply of a coUector of Thames steamboat fares
" Two pence."
The surroundings generally were more grati
fying (because more unexpected) than the falls
proper. The easy access to, and rustic beauty
of, the islets and rocks in the very middle of the
falling masses of water, both above and below,
were unlocked for and delightful. The number
of bridges suspended from island to island, or
supported upon bits of rock in mid-stream, was
as wonderful as their indestructibility and that
of the shores which withstood the unceasing
washing of the flood hurled against them. :

234 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
The American Fall is separated from the
Horse Shoe Fall by Goat Island with its
satellites Luna Island (which is on the edge,
and cuts off a strip of water sometimes called
the Centre Fall), and the Three Sisters, which
are behind. We viewed the American Fall, at
both corners, from above — the platforms quite
overhanging the cataract — and from below, but
declined to go into the Cave of the Winds
underneath the glassy sheet. At the Canadian
side we went to the upper edge of the Horse
Shoe. This fall we found to justify its name
more than we had anticipated. It is not
merely a semi-circle, but a deeply indented
curve, the ledge of rock over which the river
precipitates itself not having worn away so
much next the shores as towards the centre of
the stream. A recent falling away of a piece
of rock had interfered with the symmetry of the
" shoe " : another such a wearing-away, and
future generations may have to find another
name for the fall — possibly founded upon its
resemblance to the letter V. Even the ap
parently straight American Fall (when seen from
across the river), falls back considerably in the
middle wheg^observed from close to and end on.

DAY FORTY-SIX. 235
The best view of the whole, taking in both
falls, the islands, and rapids, is from a slightly-
built bridge from Goat Island to where the
Terrapin Tower (familiar in pictures) stood untU
removed, as being considered unsafe. Here we
stood, in the midst of the drenching spray ; far
beneath us was the seething cauldron ; whUe
from up the river the coming waters rushed, as
" rapids," like angry waves of the sea, intent
upon sweeping away our tottering foothold, and
dashing it and us into the roaring abyss below !
A drive up stream along the Canadian shore
stUl further disclosed the grandeur of these
rapids. The road formerly took a turn inland,
and the traveller lost sight of the river during a
good part of the journey to the farthest point of
exploration — ^the Burning Spring ; but a recently
constructed series of picturesque bridges carried
us from the shore to Cedar Island, from there to
the mainland again, and once more across the
impetuous current to the Clark HUl Islands,
whence we crossed the final suspension bridge to
the pretty cottage on the river bank, enclosing
the famous spring. The sight from the verandah
of the cottage was of far more importance than
the natural phenomenon within. The hurrying

236 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
waters leapt from ledge to ledge of the shelving
river-bed, forming series of cascades and long
lines of angry foam. Here and there were
trunks of large trees and portions of rafts of
hewn timber, which had broken away from the
upper river near to Lake Erie, and were now
perched in fantastic positions upon rocks in the
midst of the rapids — looking like the ribs of
vessels that had been wrecked upon ocean-beaten
reefs — ready to be sent over the falls when
dislodged from their holding-places by the next
increment to the flood. The quantity of wood
in sight in this manner was astonishing, and it
seemed wonderful how the slender wooden
bridges and the slight embankments protecting
the edges of the islands and roadways were not
destroyed by the torrent-borne debris. The fast
rushing of visible miles of broken water had a
fascinating effect : at one point it passed our feet
at the rate of twenty-seven miles an hour ; a
little to the right it came on at thirty-three ;
and, passing down from us to the left, took an
extra plunge at a speed of forty mUes per hour !
The spring that was the last of the show
places at this side of the water was made to
come into a well in the centre of a room, and a

DAY FORTY- SIX. 237^
cone which collected the vapour emerging from its-
bubbling volume culminated in a burner that
gave forth a flame like coal gas. It was stated
to be sulphurated hydrogen gas, and when the
collector was removed from the spring the flame
continued at the burner for twenty minutes, the
gas on the surface of the water forming an ignis^
fatuus that would presumably go on for ever if
allowed its natural course.
About two miles below the faUs the river
narrows, the consequence being that the stream
(which is so marvellously still at the foot of the
falls that ferry-boats regularly traverse it)
becomes turbulently rapid, the commotion
terminating, at a right-angle bend, in a
whirlpool. Plere the water, encountering the
opposing bank, turns back again, but after
running parallel with the down stream for a-
few yards in the reverse direction, suddenly.
dips under the surface-current at a sharp angle,
and having thus formed a loop, comes up
beyond and meanders away quietly through a-
pretty but somewhat commonplace gorge to
Lake Ontario.
The so-called " perpendicular raUroad " from
the top of the cliff to the edge of the whirlpool

238 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
¦(four hundred feet down the incline) was a
¦curiosity to us, no motive-power being visible.
We were conducted to the rear of the little
break-cabin at the summit and saw a wheel
over which was suspended an endless chain of
buckets after the manner of a dredger. There
were a hundred and sixty-eight of these buckets,
which hung down into a cleft of the rock.
There were always fifty-four of them fuU of
water, whUe a like number were coming up
empty. The supply came from a little trickling
rill that filled one bucket at a time. Five
persons could be drawn up by this simple
contrivance — the invention of the proprietor.
The Whirlpool Cottage must be a melancholy
place to live at, for the numerous bodies of
suicides and persons drowned by accident at, and
for mUes above, the falls, all come to the surface
at this spot, and gyrate upon the inland
Charybdis until brought to the shore.

DAY FORTY-SEVEN.
After a ride of three hours by raU, having-
passed the town of HamUton about noon, we
arrived at Toronto, a weU-buUt city of nearly
a hundred thousand inhabitants. One of its
features is a long strip of an island lying out in
the lake (Ontario) about two miles from the
shore, where many of the Torontonians reside
during the summer, leading a kind of " camping
out " life. The lake-side situation of Toronto
is effective, and the country around is highly
cultivated and picturesque. An utter absence*
of paving or macadam causes all the streets to
be perfect bogs in wet weather, and the wooden
sidewalks, although cleanly, and good to walk
upon where not Worn into holes, are not con
sistent with the pretensions of the architecture.
A prominent part of the town is spoken of as-
the " Four Ations." This appellation was ex-

240 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
plained to us by the fact of the corner buildings
being respectively the Government House,
Upper Canada College, a Scottish Presbjrterian
Church, and — a public house ; some local wag
having immortalized them as Legislation,
Education, Salvation, and D  ation. He
must have been an irreverent and rabid
teetotaler, or else he would have managed short
of having recourse to profane language by
riiaking the fourth word Intoxication, or, better
iStUl, Liquidation.
We did not see more than the solid brick
-exterior of the educational institution mentioned;
but were shown over the University of Toronto,
a pleasing gray rubble building of true Norman
architecture with bold facings of a lighter
coloured stone, forming three sides of a
quadrangle. The natural history museum and
handsome well-stocked library were exceedingly
well arranged. In the lecture hall we saw from
the gallery some dozens of male students — and
one female — grinding away at formidable-look
ing " papers," which were handed in as fast as
completed to the examiners sitting stern and
awe-inspiring on the dais at the farther end of
the room.

DAY FORTY-SEVENi 241
The University buUding is surrounded by a
well-wooded park which contains an interesting
monument erected by the students to then-
fellow volunteers who fell in repelling the
Fenian raids of 1866. It is a massive stone
column surmounted by a colossal statue of
Britannia, and looks very handsome surrounded
as it is by sombre-hued evergreens.
Another example of pure Norman style that
it would be difficult to find excelled among
modern buUdings in Europe, is St. Andrew's
Presbyterian Church ; in fact the public edifices
of Toronto struck us as being decidedly above
the average for a place of its size. Doubtless
it will shortly mend its ways in the matter of
pavements, when, with its handsome shade-
trees and well laid-out plots, it wUl take that
rank for beauty, which, as being second in
population to Montreal, might be expected of it.
Two morning dailies, the Globe and the Mail
respectively, represent the Liberal and Conserva
tive sides of Dominion politics, and enjoy the
position of metropolitan organs in both Upper
and Lower Canada, there being no newspapers
of their size and importance published in any
other part of the Dominion.

242 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
An evening spent under the hospitable roof of
the Toronto Club, besides being enjoyable, was
very instructive ; for, it being the eve of a
general election, the neutral ground of a sociable
institution gave a valuable opportunity to a
stranger of hearing the merits and demerits of
both sides, and of taking in a general impression
of the politics of the day.
Toronto must not be left without mention
being made of its valuable zoological collection,
for, in addition to the usual menagerie of living
wonders, there was a dead whale which had been
rendered imperishable by being mummified in a
most perfect manner. It was proved by a
scientifically accurate method of computation to
have lived and roamed in the ocean for upwards
of four centuries, and in its present dried up
state weighed ten tons.

DAY FORTY-EIGHT.
The Queen's birthday. Many happy returns
of the day to her Most Gracious Majesty!
Canada was en fite. They celebrate the day
upon its proper date here, and celebrate it in
proper style, too.
All business was suspended, bells rang, cannons
were fired, bunting flew, bands played, and
everybody behaved in such a manner as to have
a joUy headache next morning. It was with
difficulty that we travel— intent people got
through the giddy throng at the miserable
raUway station and procured a seat in the train ;
and when we did get ourselves and packages
safely on board, it was an hour behind time
before the loyal holiday-makers were provided
with a sufficient number of extra cars ; and the
festooned, evergreened, and ribbon-ornamented s

244 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
locomotives dragged their heavy freight of light-
hearted people along the raUway that skirted
the lake to Kingston, where, later in the day,
we took steamer on the river St. Lawrence for
Montreal. Queen's weather stiU favoured us as we
entered that reach of the noble river, called the
Lake of the Thousand Islands. For forty mUes
we threaded these seventeen hundred (exact
official figures 1692) " islands," passing so near
to many of them that a biscuit could be thrown
across into the water beyond. It wUl thus be
seen that some are but little patches ; but all
bear luxuriant vegetation ; and some are many
mUes in extent. The sUvery streaks and
broader channels of water form labyrinths
which are a paradise for waterfowl, and for their
natural enemy-^the sportsman. Monotonously
similar white lighthouses mark out the deep
water channel, and, if not picturesquely diverse
in their own construction, serve to agreeably
diversify the sameness of land and water and
greenery and rock through which the traveller
saUs along.
Among splendid villas at Alexandra Bay was
one which we delighted to honour — the seat of

DAY FORTY-EIGHT. 245
Mr Pullman ; whose invention, the palace car,
had added so much to the comfort of our
journey. Suddenly we came upon the open water,
where the majestic river flows on of a breadth
of from two to three miles ; and, doubtless
missing many delightful views in the darkness,
we retired to our berths, where slumbers quite
as delightful to us under the circumstances as
any glorious prospect, prepared us for fresh
delights at the rising of the morrow's orb of
day.

DAY FORTY-NINE.
Before arriving at Montreal for breakfast
we experienced the remarkable sensation of
" shooting the rapids." Previous to the year
1840 it had been noticed that rafts of timber
drifted nine miles in forty minutes, and watch
ing their course it was determined to try it
with a steamer. The bold experiment
succeeded and serious accidents have been
unknown. The upward voyages are performed
by canals and locks, but the downward passage
is made through Nature's waterway under the
guidance of Indian pilots. ¦ At the time of our
" shooting " the river was swoUen, a circum
stance which, while adding zest to the
performance, was at the same time a favourable
condition for safe transit, by providing a greater-
depth of water. It is a peculiar feeling to be
going downhill by water, even whUe it continues-

DAY FORTY-NINE. 247
to run tolerably steadUy ; but, as you see the
ridges of white foam coming nearer, and grim
rocks sticking up apparently right in your
course, your heart has a tendency to come
correspondingly nearer to your mouth. The
engines were slowed, but the boat continued to
go faster and faster. Four men were at the
ivheel with eyes riveted, upon an island ahead
which it appeared certain' we must be dashed
against. Our breath was held while we con
sidered which side of the island it was possible
for us to shave. A glance at the stern visage
of our pUot begat confidence. He spoke not to
the steersmen ; nor even made the slightest
visible sign to them ; but his senses and their
actions were in as complete accord as the eyes
and hands of one man. On we went, slipping
past the right hand side of the island at an
iever increasing speed. On either side were
protruding rocks that threatened to pierce the
sides of our bark. " Surely one of them must
rip her open as she heels over against them ! "
No ; we were stUl afloat, but close under our
bows was seen a ledge, over which the dark
larown torrent poured and broke into foam in a
manner that no doubt formed a very pretty

248 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
picture from the shore, but to us novices in
rapid-shooting seemed a fearful leap to take,;
." Good heavens ! the steamer is broadside on ;
we are — ^lost ! we are — no, we are over ! " or
rather we were through, for an oblique break in
the ridge — ^to " take " which it was necessary
that our vessel at the nick of time should be
put partly across the stream — ^had admitted us
to glide safely down with the rushing floody
instead of being dashed over a foaming cascade
to certain destruction ; and we were at length,
upon a smooth swift-flowing tide, borne quickly
under Stephenson's " Victoria " tubular bridge
to the quay at Montreal.
-Tr- -TV" ¦Vf- TT
. The Windsor Hotel at Montreal is one of the,
chief glories of the Canadians. Splendidly,
situated and superbly finished and furnished it
is indeed a comfortable and luxurious inn for
the worn traveller, arriving either from- a storm-
buffetted Atlantic voyage, or a continental
wandering by road and raU. It is not so
stupendous as some of the hotels in the States,
but its appointments eclipse anything of the
kind in Europe. It has all the good points of
our English hotels, combined with American

DAY FORTY-NINE. 249
conveniences— even to .the " tonsorial depart
ment " on the basement. Its entrance haU
and " rotunda " are unique in beauty and
adaptation. The city lies on a plain, immediately to the
rear of which rises a hiU seven hundred feet high,
which provides public park, cemeteries, and
points from which to view the urban district
and surrounding country. We took our first
drive to this desirable elevation, so- as to get
the best idea of the plan of the neighbourhood.
The hUl is very aptly named Mount Royal
(hence the name of the city). Along the river
for four miles stretch the streets and buUdings,
reaching inland about two mUes. The noble
river can be discerned entering the landscape,
on the far-away right of the spectator, and
disappearing on the extreme left towards the
distant ocean. Its many islands and rapids are
plainly visible, and the monstre raUway bridge
(nearly two mUes long) looks a mere toy in
¦the vastness of the picture.
Both sides of the" St. Lawrence are here
Canadian territory, but away on the southern
horizon the Green Mountains of Vermont show
that the. American Republic there holds sway..

250 A SCAMPER THROUGH - AMERICA.
The mountains of St. Clair, Belleisle, and
Busheville, rise against the eastern sky, and
to the northward is a fertUe country melting
away to bleakr-looking hills in the direction of
Labrador, The whole of the ground for many
miles, particularly along the banks of the river,
is covered with - habitations ; which, being
mostly whitewashed and standing amid plots of
well cultivated land and trees, give an idea of
prosperity and happiness that is everywhere
evident in Canada.
Descending the easUy graduated slopes of
the back of the : hUl (or mountain, as the
Montreal people call it), we went on our tour
of the city. The solid grey limestone presents
a display of continuous substantial masonry
unequalled on the North American continent ;
and fountains and statues are not wanting to
testify to the successful efforts of the citizens
to maintain the reputation, of Montreal as a
model. city for construction and embellishment.
About half of the population being of the
old French stock, and s'tUl clinging to their
original Norman patois, there is as much of the
French language used as English. Many of the
streets are marked Rue so and: so, only; ...while

DAY FORTY-NINE. 251
others, as weU as public notices of all kinds, are
exhibited in both languages. At the French
cathedral of Notre Dame we had an opportunity
of seeing a large assembla.ge of the French
Canadians, for they were gathering to the First
Communion of a batch of the rising generation.
The young misses were dressed in white, with
veUs, flowers, and gloves, all complete ; as may
be seen on any like occasion in the Roman
Catholic towns of Europe ; and the boys with
white gloves and a piece of ribbon round the
iarm were very unattractive objects beside the
sUk and satin cased little queens of whom their
soberly clad mothers were so conspicuously
proud. We did not wait for the service, but
were duly impressed by the decoration of the
church ; which, being entirely of blue and gold,
A^as as lightsome as the style of architecture
w^ould admit of. To accommodate a con-
•gregation of eleven hundred people, the floor
sittings were supplemented by two tiers of
galleries all round, excrescences which, it may be
imagined, required a good deal of " lighting
up." What I never saw before in a Romish
church, the whole space was covered with pews :
high ones with doors, just as in an old-fashioned

252 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA..
church at home that has escaped " restoration."'
This dwarfed the seeming size of the place,., and
gave an impression of incongruity.
The Church of the Lady of Loudres was much
more a reminder of the beautiful churches of
France, being a very gem of ecclesiastical
structure and adornment.
A large edifice, to be called the Cathedral of
St. Peter, was in course of construction near the
Windsor, after the plan of St. Peter's, at Rome..
Its design included five domes and twenty
chapels, and it is doubtless by the time this
volume is in the hands of the reader a finished
and striking example of the wealth and power
of Roman Catholicism in Canada.
The Episcopal Cathedral is a unique specimen
of English Gothic, and is surmounted by a spire '
two hundred and twenty-four feet in height.
*^£. M, M. .11,
¦TT TT Tt- TP
At sunset we took our places on board a
comfortable and fast river steamer for Quebec,
again preferring the comfortable water-travelling
to the stuffy railroad cars for which we held
tickets. The evening came in very chUly as we stood.
upon the spacious deck bidding good-bye to kind

DAY FORTY-NINE. 253
friends whom it was unlikely we should ever
see again. Well may the people have such an
affection for their city and wax enthusiastic when
expatiating upon its attractions, thought we, as
we watched its receding cut-stone wharves, and
the panorama in the rear. The " mountain "
formed a dark back-ground against the pale
northern sky, and the picture was fiUed in by
the tall spires, glittering roofs and domes, and
the deep still water between us , and the shore,
as the sun sank grandly beneath the western
horizon, laving aU in a sheen of burnished gold.,
It was not unlike a departure from Hamburg to
proceed down the Elbe for the North Sea, but
the number of ships here provided not a
hundredth part of the forest of masts visible in
the great German river.. We passed one of the
huge St. Lawrence rafts of lumber on its way
down to Quebec. It was an acre in extent, and
was peopled by men, women and children, who
had a hut upon ,it and were chanting their
evening hymn around a cheery fire blazing away
upon the raft. Severe storms sometimes sweep
down upon the river and play havoc with these
masses of lumber, and cause their " crews " to be
drowned in the angry flood.

DAY FIFTY.
The comfort of the spacious sleeping quarters
on the steam-boat cannot be described. A white,
sweet, and cosy state-room was relinquished with
regret as we hastened to enjoy a glorious sun
rise as we neared the harbour of Quebec.
It occurred to us here to notice that in all the
sleeping places we had been in, whether on board
of steamers or cars, or elsewhere since we left
home, the utmost cleanliness of domestic arrange-
m:ents had been conspicuous. Charles Waterton,
the famous naturalist, records with satisfaction
that during his American travels in 1824 he only
found " one bug between Buffalo and Quebec" :
we were proud to be able to say that that was
¦the exact number of this interesting natural
history specimen which- crossed our path during
the whole of our round : only ONE — but he was
a whopper. The river had narrowed, and on either side

DAY FIFTY. 255
was bordered by high banks covered with trees;
and dotted with neat cottages and clusters of
larger buUdings. A few scores of the most
wretched ocean-going craft afloat were anchored
in the stream awaiting cargoes of timber. The
whole of them were barques, and most of them'
flying the Norwegian flag. Their buUd in some
cases betokened that they had at one time been;
British property, having very likely been sold:
to the foreigner for an old song when Mr-
PlimsoU rendered it impossible for them any;
longer to ply as English vessels. There were-
nevertheless a considerable number of our own
nationality among the fleet of old maritime-
curiosities. The tars were astir, and the smoke^,
from the galley fires and the redolent odours as:,
Yre threaded, our way through them told that a.
savoury ' meal was about to preface the labours-
of the day. WindwUl pumps were at work,.
keeping under the water in the holds from the
everlasting leaks in the old tubs, and splintered
stems showed how the ice had offered
obstruction in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, where-
they had been more or less delayed in its^.
relentless grip. '
The north-west bank of the river assunjed the-

256 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
form of a large tongue of land, getting higher
and higher untU it culminated in Cape Diamond,
crowned with the vast fortifications forming-
the Citadel of Quebec. The fortress from the
river looked like Gibraltar, a designation which
we afterwards learned had often been applied
to it.
Landing at the Lower Town we found our
selves in old French-looking streets, and might
have been in 'Dieppe or Rouen ; whUe the cries
of " Voiture Monsieur " and " Vant a carriage 1"
showed that we were in a mongrel country as
to the language. The population is nine-tenths
French-Canadian, the language used in the law-
courts and -written and printed being the French
of to-day, but the spoken " garbage " (as our
inteUigent and useful cab driver called it) is
boasted of as not- being a- patois, but the
polite French of the age of the colonization of
Canada. There is a colour of probabUity about
this, but doubtless the "polite" language" has
become somewhat corrupted. It struck us
as if a colony of English descent were to be
speaking in the " vulgar tongue " of the day
when the Bible was translated into the
Authorized Version.

DAY FIFTY. 257
The quiet dreamy life was almost stifling
after the briskness of the Yankees. Quebec is
the only place in North America of any
pretensions that is going back in population.
It contains about fifty thousand inhabitants.
The neighbourhood, however, is thickly peopled
with a thrifty and easily satisfied people, the
three towns of Point Levi, New Liverpool, and
South Quebec, on the opposite bank of the St.
Lawrence, being steady-going prosperous com
munities. Ascending to the Upper Town we were
within the walled city, the original gates of
which are being replaced by appropriate new
ones. Two, the Kent Gate and Dufferin Gate,
upon the sites of the ancient St. Louis and St.
Patrick, were completed. Better to have kept
to time-consecrated names we thought, and
so did others to whom we made the observation.
The king's bastion crowns the Citadel just
above the residence of the Governor General, the
Marquis of Lome, which was just being prepared-
for the Princess Louise and his lordship; they
having left Liverpool that day in the Sarmatian.
The prospect is grand, being simUar to that
which is obtained from an unrivalled promenade

258 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
a little beneath, formed by Durham Terrace and
Dufferin Terrace. There can be no denying
that this outlook is the finest of its kind in the
world. That from the Hoe at Plymouth
resembles it in many features.
The St. Charles river joins its majestic com
peer at the foot of the eminence, and right
across the larger stream, to the left, lies the
Island of Orleans, which, for a length of twenty
miles, divides its waters into reaches of lake-like
sUver, in which the picturesque banks are
clearly reflected.
The many striking churches, nunneries,
coUeges, etc., and the shining roofs of many of
the buUdings, added to the richness of the
scene. Behind the Citadel lie the historic
Plains of Abraham, and here we touched the
miserable column with which a grateful nation
commemorates the deeds and death of gaUant
General Wolfe, who fell on this spot in the
moment of his victory over the French General,
Montcalm. The monument is a comparatively
new one, replacing the original which had been
carried away in chippings by Vandals of tourists.
On the road to the Falls of Montmorenci we
were among trees of old growth, and the cleanly

¦ dAy fifty. 259
villages were essentially of Normandy, even to
the dogs, harnessed to the heavy barrows (in one
case the lazy man sitting upon the top of the
load). It was sad to see this unthinking
brutality transplanted to a new Continent.
Patches of snow still lay in valleys close by the
road, and could be seen not far up on the
adjacent hills. We passed- embowered in
foliage, a cottage where the Duke of Kent, the
Queen's grandfather, once spent a summer, and,
after crossing a bridge over a ravine, found our-
seslves at the, entrance to the grounds from which
the falls could be inspected. A sylvan walk
brought us once more in sight of the river and
its islands, and sharp to our right a fine column
of water fell two hundred feet into a basin that
emptied into the river by a channel a quarter of
a mile in length. The placidity of the short
stream below / has led to the supposition
that the main body of the water of the fall
disappears into the bowels of the earth. This
is, however, not so. The falling water does
indeed pitch into a hole at the foot in a ipanner
that might cause you to think it was going to
the centre of the globe, but the stillness of the
rivers close up to the foot of Niagara, and other
T

260 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
cataracts, prove that the greater part of the
descended fluid is carried away in currents
beneath the surface.
Towers at either side of the top of the cliff
are the remains of a suspension bridge which,
prior to 1856, spanned the chasm. Its history
is evidence that these pieces of " engineering "
are not everlasting, and gives force to the
objection that some nervous people have to trust
ing themselves to their frail-looking support.
A carriage with three occupants was crossing
it, when it gave way ; and horses and all went
away with the spray, and not a vestige of the
equipage or its occupants was ever seen again.
This incident gave strength to (if it did not
originate) the blind tradition as to the bottom
less cauldron, but doubtless the bodies and
the shattered vehicle would not come to the
surface untU far on their way to the all
devouring ocean.

DAY FIFTY-ONE. '
We had Ibeen told to be on board of the good
steamship Circassian at half-past eight sharp,
as she was sure to be under weigh at nine ; but
one of those inevitable (one might almost say
usual) delays occurred by which our actual
sailing was half an hour past noon. The time
was in this case not grudged by us, as the view
from the buoys in the broad St. Lawrence
during the bright forenoon was magnificent.
No port in the world can show such a departing
scene to travellers under such circumstances :
the spires and roofs of Quebec — in very "many
instances covered with burnished tin — glittered
in the sun ; the busy steam ferryboats plying
from shore to shore ; and the crankey ice-beaten
old barques that had recently arrived from
Norway, England, and other countries, lying
lazily at anchor, or being towed by snorting
tugs from mid-stream to their loading-berths.

262 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
Three busy towns spread their populous
borders; along the southern bank, forty mUes
behind '.which commences the territory of the
United I States. Ship-building was proceeding.
to the extent of half-a-dozen wooden vessels in
various stages of construction, some masted and
almost ready for launching, and others just
showing the gaunt ribs of their timbers, bare, or
partially covered with planking.
As we proceeded down stream -wdth the
Island of Orleans to our left, the banks on both
sides continued dotted with white houses, which
occasionally formed clusters amounting to
vUlages and towns. This continuation of
thickly inhabitfed country for two hundred'
miles down was a matter of surprise. There
were patches of snow remaining on the hiUi
sides, not very high above the water, and as^
the afternoon wore on the temperature became'
. anything but summer-like. The widening
river was perfectly bare of any craft but our-
own and the lightships which now and then
appeared, as did trim lighthouses perched, upon-
rocky islets, marking the navigable channel in.
the watery waste of (before nightfall) twenty
mUes across. Hundreds of white porpoises.

day fifty-one. 263
-turned their repulsive, shark-like bodies slowly
over, their movements being more deliberate
than those of their darker coloured brethren,
and the fin not appearing during the
semicircular progress common to the marine
porker of aU waters. Thirty miles down we
noticed Grosse Island, where fleets ¦ of merchant
men have been long detained in times of serious
epidemics, in the olden days, and where hun
dreds of gallant seamen have died and been
buried beneath its patch of emerald sward.
Such visitations are now rare, and this evening
there was only one solitary ship lying in
quarantine opposite the lonely little " health
station." Six mUes further down were the
picturesque Crane, and Goose, and half-a-dozen
other islands, where wUd birds of all sizes
.were hovering around — their mates being en
gaged in the duties and pleasures of bird-
parentage, this being a favourite breeding place.
On the north bank could be distinctly seen,
rising majestically from the rest of the white
washed buildings forming the village of Ste.
Anne de Beaupre, the noted church of that Uk,
where miraculous cures are effected by the relics
of the saint which are exhibited' at morning

264 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
mass : • so, in remote nooks by New World rivers,
as in the Old World vales and forests, does that
faith which will remove mountains, cause bodies-
to be healed, and possibly souls to be benefitted,
by implicit confidence in, and reliance upon, the
efficacy of the medium that presents itself to the
claimants for relief.
The bold promontory of Cape Tourment and
the frowning peaks of Cape Rouge and Cape
Gribanne intensified the closing shades of
evening, and formed a fine contrast to the bright
sky in which the moon presently shone forth.
with welcome effulgence. As her lunar majesty
would attain to full illuminating power during
our voyage we comforted ourselves with the
reflection that we should be troubled with very
little darkness — an agreeable prospect, as-
rumours were rife as to the prevalence of ice to
be guarded against as we approached the ocean.
About midnight we touched at Rimouski, and
took on board the mails and some passengers-
from New Brunswick and Nova Scotia ; and.
also the latest mail-bags from Canada, which
left Montreal, Quebec, &c., by raU, some hours.
later than those which were put on board at the
commencement of our voyage.

DAY FIFTY-TWO.
The last sight -vye had at one time of the two
shores of the grand British North American
river was in the early morning, when we could
dimly discern Point de Monts on the northern
coast and Cape Chatte on the opposite side.
The grim cold-looking land took, beyond Point
de Monts, a northward turn, and we had in that
direction an open sea view. Taking a south
ward course, our vessel rounded the great shoulder
of the Province of Quebec, and after passing
between its eastern point. Cape Rosier, and the
desert island of Anticosti, we were fairly in the
Gulf of St. Lawrence. A biting east wind met
us in the face, and showers of rain and sleet?
with occasional masses of soft floating ice,
presaged anything but a genial passage.
We headed for the channel between the
western extremity of the island of Ne-wfoundland,

266 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
Cape Ray, and Cape Breton on the mainland of
Nova Scotia ; it being considered that in this
unusuaUy backward spring it was yet too early
to use the ordinary summfer course to the north
of Newfoundland, through the Straits of
Belleisle. (There is a still more northerly and
shorter route, between Anticosti and Labrador,
but its navigation by large ocean steamers had
been discontinued ; several losses of vessels
having occurred among its dangerous shoals, the
ill-fated steamer North Briton, with many lives,
being one of them.)
Things were getting shaken down on board
our well-appointed ship, and the two score each
of male and female saloon passengers now began
to group in those mysterious coteries into which
the heterogenous concatenation of hUman units
on board ship inevitably resolves itself. Divine
service at ten thirty (it was Whit Sunday)
brought together nearly all the first-class
passengers, and many from the'" intermediate"
and steerage. Abbreviated Common Prayer
was read ' by a clergyman of the Church of
England. The ordinary Morning Service was
judiciously shortened for the occasion, but
plight have been further curtailed . by the

DAY FIFTY-TWO. 267
omission of the Athenasian Creed, In our
unconsecrated sanctuary there would have been
no violation of the rubric (any more than there
was by the other omissions), and the parson
was secure from being brought to book by any
" aggrieved parishioner " ; but with that
perversity so unfortunately characteristic of
his cloth he read (some Ul-natured persons said
in an unmistakeable tone of triumph) the
" creed " with the debateable clauses. His
want of taste in a mixed company of all
denominations and shades of opinion was
responded to by nearly all , present not re
sponding to the affirmations that he who
does not think as we think " shall without
doubt perish everlastingly." I am not going
to deny to my fellow Churchmen the right to
repeat the words and mentally qualify them as
they find compatible with their understanding -
of the English language and Christian charity ;
nor to question the reasoning by which erudite
and sincere divines reconcUe their obligation
regarding its use with their consciences ; but I
do say that it is too bad that . so many of
the clergy should, whenever opportunity offers,
do all they can to put weapons into the hands

268 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
of the enemies of their Church, and to place at
a disadvantage those lay champions without
whose help, politically, socially, and financiaUy,
the Establishment, as such, would assuredly go
to the wall.
In marked contrast to this good man's view
of his duty (which, be it understood, we canvassed
not, in a revUing spirit, but as fellow-strivers tO'
do good) was that of the other minister on
board, a Presbyterian. In the evening he was-
invited to read the lesson and preach, and took
for his text, " If He had not come." Hia
sermon was a simple gospel discourse ; not
touching upon the doctrinal points which
different workers in the vineyard find it useful
or indispensable to interpret in different ways
according to their several fields of labour.
Mr Holyoake and the Rev. Newman Hall in
their American books regret that the religious-
services on board the Atlantic liners should, as
a regulation, be those of the Book of Common
Prayer. This is allowing their prejudices to
warp their judgment ; for in a congregation in
which members of the Church of England or its
American sister nearly always outnumber those
of any other, or no, denomination, and where

DAY FIFTY-TWO. 269'
the captain or other layman frequently has to
officiate, what more desirable arrangement than
that a' "liturgy of sound words" should be
enjoined 1

DAY FIFTY-THREE.
Soon after midnight I was awakened by a
-shock to the vessel, and a sound of something
more than the ordinary splash of the water along
her sides. There could be no mistaking that we
were in contact with fioes of ice, and a visit to
the deck put it beyond all doubt. Patches of
white spread as far as could be seen in the
ishower of sleet, and as the steamer's bow slowly
parted the drifting masses they sparkled with
istars of phosphorus, and passed away to the
stern. A sailing ship was going northward,
having the ice and wind with her ; otherwise
there was nothing in sight excepting the heaps
and lumps of ice, some of which were five feet
•out of the water. The moon was of little service,
owing to the heavy curtains of snow-laden
(clouds. The captain expressing hopes that no heavier

DAY FIFTY-THREE. 271
obstruction would be met with, I turned in out
of the bitter blast. During the darkness the
ice continued to grate past the ship, the grinding
noise being varied every now and then by a
concussion, as a larger obstacle than usual was
encountered. The wind was dead in our teeth-
and so had loosened the accumulation that had
settled down upon the shores of Cape Breton.
Captain Smith said that on his outward passage
not a particle of ice had been seen, and the
Parisian, which we passed during the previous
night, had made her voyage from Liverpool in a
space of time that showed that she had met
with no serious hindrance.
Great care was taken that pieces of ice should
not break the propeUer. When the men on the
look-out saw a " snag " of dangerous size ahead
the engines were slowed or stopped untU the
ugly customer glided past, then full speed again,
for next to -the importance of proceeding
cautiously was that of getting out of the pack
as quickly as possible. This was accomplished
before breakfast-time, and during the forenoon
we rounded Cape Ray, and stood in an easterly
direction for the Island of St. Pierre, the souther-
most of a group of French islets on the banks of

;272 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
Newfoundland. The wind blowing stifly from
the south (the direction of the Gulf Stream) . it
was warmer, and although the rain ceased, only
occasional glimpses of the Newfoundland coast
«ould be had through. the driving "banks" of
fog.

DAY FIFTY-FOUR.
The wind being south-south-west a gentle
fain served to modify the density of the fog so
that we could keep on going at full speed, having,
however, a very sharp look-out.
During the afternoon I espied what might
have been a sail looming through the mist, but
it proved to be a huge iceberg. Twenty-two
more came rapidly into sight, besides numerous
treacherous pieces that were just awash with
the surface of the water. These customers -vvere
very bad to discern, as they had every appear
ance in common with the white crests of foam
until close under our bows.
The ocean-roll having now begun to be felt in
teal earnest, our company at dinner was con
siderably thinned, the tables presenting the
aspect of a decimated regiment, after a battle.
Ominous gaps occurred in the ranks, and empty

DAY FIFTY-FIVE.
The morning report was that the night had
continued clear, and the Circassian had threaded
her way through sixty icebergs in the first
watch alone. As there were twenty within
range of vision when we went on deck, and we
were rarely with fewer than this number in
sight during the remainder of the day, the:
reckoning of a fellow-passenger, that we saw in
all a hundred and ninety-five, what he called
floating mountains and islands of ice, would not
be over the mark. The smaller pieces could
be numbered by thousands. Our commander
assured us that he had never faUen in with such
a number of bergs, nor so large.
The day continued serene, and almost warm;
in spite of the cooling effect of the refrigerating
strangers ; and the wind kept on blowing from
the west, with a rolling sea.

DAY FIFTY-FIVE. 277
This day was by far the most enjoyable I
ever spent upon the opean. All on board were in
ecstacies, a feeling which spread to the invalids,
all but the very weakest of whom joined the
throng on the deck, who, as the hours sped by,
were spell-bound by the glorious procession of
icy monsters. To see such a sight under
such circumstances of comfort and comparative
immunity from danger was an event of a life
time. The blue sea was studded with masses
of white, from the size of an orange to the
dimensions and shape of Heligoland. The-
latter was complete, even to the shelving beach
iat one end and the lighthouse at the other
extremity. No word-picture can convey an
idea of the splendid spectacle. It would
require the pencU of a master artist, and how
is such to obtain " sittings " from such a series
of subjects as were presented to our gaze, with
out benumbed fingers and frozen pigments
embarrassing his depicture?
¦ The hues of walls of ice with a strong sun
light or fine moonlight upon them have a unique
beauty, which, while retiiaining for a lifetime in
the memory of the beholder, baffle all description.
I have read, and been thankful for, the

274 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
chairs told of many a pitiable case of mal de
mer. As the meal progressed, others who had
bravely faced the soup, and perchance made a
bold charge at the entrees, had to beat a more
or less gracefulretreat, untU only those remained
who were happUy destined to escape the dire
infliction altogether, for the motion was such as
to test the most stubborn of gastronomic
arrangements. One doughty old gentleman made a grand
effort to get through to dessert, but succumbed
at last and joined the majority, much to the
sorrow of his neighbour, who expressed commi
seration which might have been most heartfelt.
The reason of this deep concern eked out
afterwards : the afflicted one and the dis
interested dommiserator occupied the same
state-room. All kinds of preventives, remedies, and
contriyances, were produced to combat the
squeamy malady, and it was noticeable that
those who had the most " infaUible " specifics
were the first to become victims. The ship's
doctor had very few opportunities of administer
ing his own particular nostrum, among so many
devices. A good lady who carried a small cask

DAY FIFTY-FOUR. 275
of pUls " one to be taken every hour " was early
in the hands of the stewardess ; and the man
who had to inhale from a pocket handkerchief
the fumes from so many drops of a certain liquid
was discovered in the smoke room in a comatose
condition, so that the last state of that man
was worse than the first.
The sun set and the moon rose without a
cloud, arid night closed in as we were fairly
away upon the Atlantic Ocean. Bright flashes
of aurora illuminated the northern sky, and
as many as nine bergs, all of immense
size, were in close view at one time. Thank
fulness for such favourable weather and a wind
directly with us filled our hearts as we retired
for -the night, even the sufferers from sea
sickness being cheered by the reassuring con
versation of our merry, confidence-inspiring.
Captain Smith. He and his trusty officers had
to look forward to an anxious night in guiding
us safely through the dangers of the intricate
navigation, two men being constantly on the
look-out at the mast-head, in addition to those
on the pUot-bridge and at the bow.

u

278 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
entrancing sentences in which graphic writers
have — withal faintly — conveyed to the reader
the effects of glacier scenery, but to my mind
nothing on earth so defies the pen and the
tongue as the colours of solid ice. The shapes
are easier to deal with, and I wUl instance some
of the most remarkable of those we saw. By
moonlight we had Jedburgh Abbey, and a slice
cut off Beachy Head ; in these cases size and
whiteness being taken into account as well as
shape. It must be understood that the bulk
below-water far excfeeds the visible mass, and
that this accounts for the ponderous steadiness
of the towering blocks, the waves dashing
against their base and wearing out caves just as
along a coast of rocky cliffs.
In the daylight panorama we picked out the
Bass Rock, upon which were two seals and a
polar bear, which were declared by enthusiastic
observers to move about; others, however,
declared that the supposed animals were nothing
more lively than knobs of the frozen mass,
which, as the steamer moved on, occupied
different relative positions in the field of the
beholder's -vision ! There was a sofa upon which
Hercules might have reclined to cool himself.

DAY FIFTY-FIVE. 279
not orqitting a footstool for his huge foot to rest
upon if he dropped a leg overboard in his chUly
slumbers. Churches and cathedrals were
numerous, and were variously christened accord-
ng to fancy ; some of the fair voyageurs
uttering such ejeculatiohs as " Oh, isn't that
York Minster ! " " Isn't that the image of dear
old St. Albans ! "
The most true of any of the representations
to the eye of the writer, was a model (a^hundred-^
fold size) of one of the steep-pitched roofed
farm-houses of Holstein — one of those -where the
farmer, his household, and live stock all dwell
together beneath the big thatch which
constitutes granary and curing room. This
" toy " had a chimney in the middle of the roof,
and the roof actually had eaves. As we passed
to the end the correct angles of the gable were
astonishing. These phenomena and the evenness
c;f the roof were to be accounted for by the,
melting effects of the sun, the regularity of the
dropping resulting therefrom, and the - settling
of a snowy fleece upon the slopes by reason of
the warm vapour coming in contact with the
frigid surface.
Some of the pUgrims from the paloeocrystal

280 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
sea we viewed from a distance of many miles-;
others we passed within a few hundred yards,
The specific gravity of the ocean around us
was tested, and showed that the fresh water
visitors were leaving their impression as they
went melting along, for the sea was less salt than
in its normal condition in these parts. At first
we were to the south of the spectral procession,
as it majestically rounded Cape Race,; but before
we left it on its way to certain destruction in
+he Gulf Stream, we cut right through its watery
milky way, and bade adieu to the ghostly
monsters as they wafted, their cool fareweU to us
in the pale moonlight, from both north and
south in our wake.
The thermometer on the evening of the thirty-
first of May stood at thirty-nine degrees
Fahrenheit.

DAY FIFTY-SIX.
Never a ship had more favourable conditions
for crossing the Atlantic, since we left the Banks
of Ne-wfoundland. The wind, half a gale, was
continuously with us ; sometimes slightly from
one side, sometimes the other, but invariably
favourable. The spreading canvas imparted a
sensation of dashing speed, but it was known to
the initiated that the sails, whUe steadying the
ship and easing the strain upon the engines, did
not help much in getting her forward.
We had not a drop of water on the deck, and
the day sped quickly by as if we were on a.
pleasant yachting cruise.

DAY FIFTY-SEVEN.
Captain Smith — Lieutenant Smith of the
Royal Naval Reserve — devised all kinds of
amusements, in which nearly all of us joined
enthusiastically. There were footbaU, quoits,
and shuffle-board, on deck ; draughts, cards, and
rehearsals for grand concert, below. Two
German violinists were imported from the
steerage, and dancing went forward on the
quarter-deck from breakfast until bed-time. A
troupe of Christy minstrels from the forecastle
gave a matinee that was highly appreciated ;
but the piece de resistance was the Drill of the
Mulligan Guards, where a colonel (the bos'n's
mate) on a spirited donkey — a wonderful piece
of anatomy, into the formation of which a
tarpauline, the cook's boy, and some teazed
hemp largely entered — put the corps through
a variety of evolutions that would have done
credit to the most practised of clowns. The
masks, and the decayed uniforni of various
regiments imparted a highly ludicrous aspect to
the bold guard.

DAY FIFTY-EIGHT.
Placards announcing that the " Circassian
Spring Meeting " would take place at eleven
o'clock on Saturday forenoon had been posted
up, and, there being no gate-money, a large con
course of spectators assembled. The " event "
was a purely athletic one, and the " card " was
well filled with entries for the various stakes,
which comprised flat, hurdle, and one-legged
races ; chalk-the-line, egg race, tug of war, etc.
The ringing of the starter's beU, firing of pistol,
and clearing the course of the inevitable Derby
dog, were not the least entertaining incidents of
the gathering.
A grand concert in the evening — also fitly
advertised, and for which elaborate programmes
-had been engrossed — came off with great eclat,
the talented amateurs going through their weU
practised parts in capital style. An improvisitore
created great enthusiasm by singing a song, the
chorus of which was, "Oh! shan't we be sorry to
leave the Circassian, leave the Circassian, leave
the Circassian," in which everybody joined
ad. lib.

DAY FIFTY-NINE.
Trinity Sunday passed away in the manner
to. which we had now become accustomed to
spend the Sabbath on the ocean ; exquisite
weather favouring both deck exercise and repose.
Before turning in, the bold land of the Island
of Aran loomed under our starboard bow, and
the bright light on Tory Island shone on the
horizon far ahead.

DAY SIXTY.
To be up with the sun did not admit of at
long sojourn among the blankets, and as we
passed^ into Lough Foyle at daybreak most of
us were on deck to bid good-bye to those who
were going to leave us at MovUle, and to get
an early peep at the newspapers that would be
brought on board. The tender was in waiting,
and took away the London maUs and the
passengers for Ireland and Scotland. A trip
up the Lough, of twelve miles, was before them,
ere they could take train at Londonderry, or
steamboat for Glasgow.
The ever-vaunted verdancy of the Irish
vegetation was as striking and refreshing as-
ever, after being accustomed to foreign land
scapes, which, even in the ch6icest spots of the
American Continent, lack that peculiar green so
charming in the British Isles. The appropriately-
named Green Castle was the first object to take-

286 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
our notice, the grand old ivy-covered ruin, with
its adjacent walled and trimly kept enclosure,
being a fine ornament to the western point of
the entrance. Spotlessly white lighthouses and
keepers' residences brightened the day scene as
their kindly lights had recently done the night
one. This loyal, prosperous, and happy corner of
Erin, with its cosy farmsteads, country seats,
and highly cultivated fields, gave our Canadian
cousins who were visiting the old country for
the first time a good impression of the horiie
islands of her Majesty's dominions.
Emerging again into the open sea, we were
struck with the difference in the colour of the
water, now that we were "in soundings" instead
of being borne upon the aU but fathomless
ocean of the past week.
Dunluce Castle, on our right, threw us into
raptures, and our ever ready guide, philosopher
and friend, the captain, assumed the post of
showman, taking the ladies on to the pUot
bridge, and expatiating, as only an Irishman
can do, upon the glorious coast scenery of his
native land.
The Giant's Causeway was seen to great

DAY SIXTY. 287'
advantage ; in fact our good fortune in having
all the principal sights served up for us under
the best possible of circumstances stuck to us to
the last. As we steamed along within a stone's-
throw of the cliffs, our conductor had a rare
opportunity of pointing out every feature of the
interesting coast. He was able to assure lis
that never, in the four hundred and forty-six
times that he had gone by, had he seen such a
lovely aspect of the north-eastern shores of
Ireland. Later on in the day the sun-light
would npt have been upon the face of the rocks,
and earlier the detaUs of the picture could not
have been discerned in the semi-darkUess of the
summer night.
The singular basaltic columnar formation
which is visible here is identical with that of
the opposite coast at Staffa, so that the
continuity of land which some ingenious minds-
have contemplated establishing by prolonging
the MuU of Cantyre to Erin by a gigantic feat
of " nawying " and engineering has patently
had a pre-historic natural antecedent.
Further on we had a good view of the Mull,
its height causing it to look much nearer than
its actual distance of twenty mUes.

'288 A SCAMPER THROUGH AMERICA.
But to finish with the " Causeway." Some
isolated pillars presented the aspect of chimneys,
and tradition says that the remnant of the
Spanish Armada that drifted this way fired
upon them for such. , The giant's cauldron, his
brandy bottle (with cork complete), his great
organ, little organ, and lastly the grim monster
himself, were all duly pointed out ; and, need
less to say, were all exactly like the objects
suggested — just as are the innumerable re
currences of Adam and Eve, the Twelve
Apostles, and other persons and things in
various parts of the world, including such
veracious resemblances as the Pope and Two
Nuns, and the Russian and the Turk of the
Harz Mountairis.
The towers of Basalt end in Fairhead, a bluff
which we could almost touch, and were told
that there was water deep enough for our vessel
to go right up to it.
A pretty islet, Sheep Island, lay between us
and a portion of the mainland ; and,, shutting
out of our view part of the Scottish coast, was
the Irish island of Rathlin, immortalized as the
locale of Bruce's contemplation of the persevering
spider in his prison cell.

DAY SIXTY. 289
BaUycastle Bay arid the snug village in its
indent passed to our rear as
Each sail -was set
And each heart -was gay
and we descended to the saloon and the prosaic,
well appetized for our morning refection, sailing
upon a sea which laved the shores of England,
Wales, Scotland, and Ireland.
The Isle of Man was passed at the Calf ; and
soon the hills of North Wales came in sight,
the crest of Snowdon cutting the sky line in the
background. At eight o'clock we were at the Mf rsey bar
lightship, our point d'appui of two months
before ; and, after lying for a few hours at
anchor waiting for the tide we crossed the bar
within an hour of sixty days from the commence
ment of our scamper of close upon fifteen
thousand miles, having traversed new ground or
water for almost every mile of it ; consecutive
travelling stated by a competent authority to be
unprecedented; and, as far as a lady's wanderings
were concerned, it was so beyond aU doubt.
FINIS.

PRINTED BY T. H. NORTH,
NORTHERN EVENING MAIL OFFICE,
WEST HARTLEPOOL.

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authors. They are well printed in similar style to The Boys' Own
Favourite Library, in crown octavo sij:e, on good paper, and
strongly and elegantly bound. They are published at; 3s. 6d. per
volume, and are the best and cheapest Library for giris' reading.
Each volume contains from 300 to 400 pages of solid reading,.
and are all illustrated. Thoroughly pure and healthy in tone, th«y
are such as parents and others may safely^putjinto the hands of
English maidens, while to the girl's themselves they prove an attrac
tive investment for their pocket money. The following volumes
are ready : —
Michaelmas Daisy. By Sarah Doub-nkv.
The New Girl. By Mrs. Gellie.
The Oak Staircase. By M. & C. Lee.
For a Dream's Sake. By Mrs. A. H. Martin.
My Mother's Diamonds. By Maria J. Greer.
My Sister's Keeper. By Laura M. Lane.
" Bonnie Lesley." By Mrs. Herbert Martin.
Left Alone. By Francis Carr, Author of "Tried
by Fire," &c.
Stephen the Schoolmaster. By Mrs. Gellie.
(M.E.B.)
Very Genteel. By the Author of "Mrs. Jerningham's
Journal."
Gladys the Reaper. By Anne Beale.

NEW BOOKS FOR THE YOUNG.

The Children's Daily Help for the Christian
Year. Taken from the Psalms and Lessons. Selected by
E. G. Price is. 6d.j or bevelled boards, gilt edges, 2j.
Also kept'in various leather bindings.

Remember now thy C7-eaior in tJte days of thy youth" — Eccl, sii. x.
commeftcing at Advent Stmday^
large prints cannot fail to make

Every tnother will find this little
book a real help Jor her children. The
simple text mid eiasy verse forthe day^

attractive children s took.

Talks about Science. By the Late Thomas Dun-
man, formerly Lecturer on Physiology at the Birkbeck Institu-
¦ tion, and the Working Men's College, With a Biographical
Sketch, by Charles Welsh. Crown 8vo, cloth gilt.
iPrice 3J-. 6d.

*' IVill prove sei-viceable to those
ivhs, not caring to force their way
into the tejftple of science, are yet
anxto7is io get an occasional glimpse

into its vestibule.''' — Athen^um,
" We give the Talks a hearty wel
come and a strong recomtnendation.^^
— School Gl'aii:dla.n.

NEW AND POPULAE WOBKS

10/6

7/6

6/.

Fen Shillings and Sixpence each, cloth elegamt.
Child Xife in Japan and Japanese Child Stories. By M. Chaplin
Ateton. With Seven full-page Illustrations, drawn and
engraved by Japanese artists, and many smaller ones. Quarto,
Cloth elegant.
" People who give it away are likely to be tempted to buy a new copy to
keep." — Saturday Review.

Seven Shillings and Sixpence each, cloth elegant.
The Locking-Glass for the Mind. Cuts by Bevhck.
The Toung Buglers : A Tale of the Peninsiilar "War. By G. A.
Henty, Author of "Out on the Pampas," &c. With Eight
full-page pictures and numerous plans of Battles.
The Men of the Backwoods ; or. Stories and Sketches of the Indians
and the Indian Fighters. By Ascott R. Hope, author of
" Heroes of Young America," &c. Thirty -three Ulusti-ations.

Six Shillings each, cloth elegant, with Illustrations.
Flyaway Fairies and Baby Blossoms. By L. Olaekson.
Garden, The : ocloiared illustrations.
Golden Threads from an Ancient Loom; Das Nibehngenlied
adapted to the use of Young Readers. By Ltdia Hands.
Dedicated by pei-misaion to Thomas Cakltle. With Fourteen
Wood Engravings by J. Sohnoek, of Carolsfeld. Royal 4to.
Belle's Pink Boots. By Joanna H. Matthews. Sixteen coloured
illustrations.
Kingston's (W. H. G.) Will Weatherhelm : on, the Yarn of an
Old Sailok about his Eaklt Lipb and Adventbeus.
„ The Missing Ship, ok Notes from the Log op the
" Ouzel Galley.'
„ The Three Admirals, and the Adtentuees of their
YOTJNQ Followers.
„ True Blue ; or. The Life and Adventures of a British
Seauan op the Old School.
All these havo gilt edges.
lee Maiden and other Stobies, By Hans Ohbistian Andeksen.
39 Illustrations by Zwecker. 4to, Gilt edges.
Journey to the Centre of the Earth. Authorized Translation.
, From the French of Jules Veene. With 63 Illustrations.

PUBLISHED BY GRIFFITH AND FAEEAN. »
Six Shillings each — continued.
Seven Stories about Old Folks and Young Ones. By A. R. Hope.
(Not illustrated.)
The Bird and Insects' Post Office. By Robert Bloomfield.
With Thirty-five Dlustrations. Crown 4to. (Or paper boards,
ohromo sides, 3s. 6d.^
Little Loving Heart's Poem Book. By M. E. Tuppee. iO
Illustrations.
Little Maids. Rhymes -with Illustrations by Mrs. W. Kemp.
Quarto, gilt edges.
Our Little Ones' Volume. {Bevelled boards, gilt edges). With 400
niastrations.
Won from the Waves. By the late W. H. G. Kingston.
Grandpapa's Verses and Pictures ; or, Natural History in Play.
By T. P. M. With 28 Illustrations by R. H. Mooke. Cloth,
elegant. Prioe^^ 
Five Shillings each, cloth elegant; or Five SJiillings and
Sixpence, gilt edges. Illustrated by eminent Artists.
Belton Scholarship, The. By Bernard Heldmann.
Chums: A Story for the Youngsters, of Schoolboy Life and
Adventure. By Harleigh Sevekne.
Gentleman Cadet (The) : His Career and Adventuees at the Royal
Academy, Woolwich. By LiEnr.-CoLONEL Dkayson.
Gerald and Harry, or The Boys m the North. By Emilia
Maeryat Norris.
Hair-Breadth Escapes, or The Adventdebs op Three Boys in
South Afeioa. By the Rev. H. C. Adams.
Heraes of the Crusades. By Barbara Hutton.
Holly Berries. By Amy E, Blanchaed. Coloured Illustrations
by Ida Waugh.
Home Life in- the Highlands. By Lilias Graeme.
Household Stories from the land of Hofer, or Popular Myths
OF TyEOL, raCLUDING THE ROSE GARDEN OP KiNG LaBYN.
In Times of Peril. By G. A. Henty.
Kingston's (W. H, G.) John Deane of Nottingham, His Adven-
tcees and Exploits.
,, Rival Crusoes (The). (Ch- bevelled boards, gilt edges, Gs.)
Patranas, or Spanish Stoeies, Legendaey and Traditional.
By the Author of " Household Stories."
Swift and Sure, or The Career of Two Brothers. By A. Elwes.
Tales of the Saracens. By Babbaea Hutton.
Tales of the White Cockade. By Barbara Hutton.
Wee Babies. Illustrated by Ida Wauqh.
Who did it ? By the Rev. H. 0. Adams.
Workman and Soldier. A Tale of Paris Lefe during the
Siege and the Rule of the Commune. By Jajies F. Cobb
(or bevelled boards, gilt edges, 6s0 

10- NEW AND POPULAB WOEKS
Five Shillings each, cloth, Illustrated,-gilt edges.
Elwes' (A.) Luke Ashleigh, or School Life in Holland.
,^ Paul Blake, or A Boy's- Perils in Corsica and Monte
CfilSTO.
Neptune's Heroes, or, The Sea Kings of England, peom Hawkins
TO Franklin. By W. H. Davenport Adams.
Talks about Plants, or Eably Lessons in Botany. By Mi-s.
Lankestbr. With Six Coloured Plates and numerous Wood
Engravings. A UNIFORM SERIES OF FIVE SHILLING VOLS.
Scpmre Crown 8va, gilt edges.
The Day of Wonders ; A Medley op Sense and Nonsense. By
M. Sullivan. 30 Illustrations by W. G. Browne.
Harty the Wanderer;- or, Conduct is Fate. A Tale by Faelbigh
Owen. 2& Illustrations by John Proctor.
A Wayside Posy, Gathebed fob Girls. By F. Lablachb,
15 Illustrations by A. H. Collins.
Price Five Shillings each, cloth elegant, Illustrated.
Extraordinary Nursery Bhymes ; New, yet Old. Translated from
the Original Jingle into Comic Verse by One who was once a
Child. 60 Illustrations. Small Ito.
Favourite Picture Book (The) aud Nursery Companion. Com
piled anew by Unolb Charlie. With 450 Illustrations by
Absolon, Anelay, Bennett, Browne (Phiz), Sm John Gilbert,
T. Landseer, Leech, Pbout, Harrison Weir, and others.
Medium 4to, cloth elegant (or coloured Illustrations, Ws. Gd.)
"^ This may also be had in Two Vols., cloth, price Ss., or coloured
Dlustrations, 5s. ; . also in Four parts, in paper boards, fancy
wrapper, price Is. each, or coloured Illustrations, 2s. each-
Little Gipsy (The). By EuE Sadvage. Translated by Anna
Blackwbll. Profusely Illustrated by Ernest Feolich. Small
4to, (orj e-xtra cloth, gilt edgeSj 6s.)
Norstone ; or, Rrnrs- in the Clouds. By M. E. Haiteeslby.
Merry Songs for Little Voices, Words by Mrs. Beodbeip. Music
by Thomas Muhbti With 40 Illustrations. Fcap 4to.
Our Little Ones. New and cheaper edition. In elegant cover.
Stories firom the Old and New Testaments. By the Rev. B. H.
Deaper. With 48 Engravings.
Trimmer's History of the Robins, Written for the Instruction of
Children on their treatment of Animals. With 24 lUus-.
trations by Haerison Weib. Small 4to, gilt edges.

¦published .by SBIFFITH and 'rAEEAN.

11

Four SMlMnffs imd JSia^mce each, chth elegant, with
lUimtr ations.; or with gilt e^ee, §s.
Alda Graham; and her brother Philip. By E. Mabbyat Nobeis.
" Buttons." The Trials and Teavels of a Yocso Gentleman.
By AsooTi R. Hope.
Casimir, the Little Exile, By Cabolinb Pbachby.
Cornertown Chronicles. New Legends op Old Lore written
FOB the Young. By Kathleen Knox.
Favourite Fables in Prose and Verse. With 24 beautiful Illus
trations from Drawings by Harbison Weir. SmaU4to.
Fiery Cross (The), or the vow op Montrose. By Basbaba Hutton.
Mandarin's Daughter (The) : A Story of the Great Tabpinq
Rebellion. By Samuel Mobsman.
Modem British Plutarch (The), or Lives of Men Distinouishbd
IN the eecent histoey of oce Country, fob theib Talents,
Vietues, and Achievements. By W. 0. Taylor, LL.D.
Oak Staircase (The), or The Stories ofLoedand Lady Desmond;.
a Narrative of the Times of James II. By M. and C. Lbb.
Royal Umbrella (The). By Majob A. F..P. Habcouet, Author of
"The Shakespeare Argosy," &o., &c. With 4 full-page Illus
trations by Linley Samboukne.
Silver Linings: or. Light and Shade. By Mrs. R. M. Beay.
Tales and Legends of Saxony and Lusatia, By W. Westall.
Theodora : a Tale for Girls. By Emilia Marryatt Nobris,
Zipporah, the Jewish Maiden, By M. E. Bewshbe.

Three Shillings and Sixpence plain ; or colowed plates and
gilt edges, Four Shillings and Sixpence, Super Boyal
16mo, cloth elegant, with Illustrations.
Aunt Jenny's American Pets. By Catherdib 0. Hoplby.
Broderip (Mrs.) Crosspatch, the Cricket, and the Counterpane,
,, Tales of the Toys. Told, by Themselves.
,, Tiny Tadpole, and other Tales.
Cousin Trix, and heb Welcome Tales. By Georgiana Cbaik.
Cosmorama ; the Mannbes and Customs of all Nations of the
World described. By J. Aspin.
Early Days of English Princes. By Mrs. Russell Gray.

12 NEW AND POPULAE WOEKS

Three Shillings and Sixpence each — continued.
Echoes of an Old Bell. By the Hon. Augusta Bbthell.
Facts to Correct Fancies, or Shoet Narratives of Remarkable
Women.
Fairy Land, or Recbeation fob the Rising Gebeeation, in Prose
and Verse. By Thomas and Jane Hood. Illustrated by T.
Hood, Jun.
Feathers and Fairies, or Stories from the Reauis of Fancy.
By the Hon. Augusta Bethell.
Flotsam and Jetsam. By H. Wothem.
Garden (The), or Frederick's Monthly Instruction for the
Management and Formation of a Flower Garden. With
Illustrations by Sovsterby.
Hacco the Dwarf, or The Tower on the Mobktain, and other
Tales. By Lady Lushington.
Lightsome and the Little Golden Lady. Written and Illustrated
with Twenty-four Engravings, by C. H. Bennett.
Nursery Times, or Stoeies about the Little Ones. Ey an Old
Nurse.
Peep at the Pixies, (A), or Legends of the We&t. By Mrs. Bray.
Seven Birthdays (The), or The Children of Fortune. By
Kathleen Knox.
Starlight Stories, told to Bright Eyes and Listening Ears.
By Fanny Lablachb.
Stories of Edward and his Little Friends.
Tales of Magic aud Meaning, Written and Illustrated by Alfred
Ceowquill.
Three Shillings and Sixpence plain, cloth elegant, with
Illustrations ly eminent Artists, or with gilt edges, price 4«.
Bonnie Lesley. By Mrs. H. Martin.
Cast Adrift, the Story of a Waif. By Mrs. Hjkbeet Maetin.
Castles and their Heroes. By Barbara Hutton.
Clement's Trial and Victory, or Sowing and Reaping. By
M. E. B. (Mrs. Gellie). Third Thousand.
College Days at Oxford. By the Rev. 0. H. Adams.
Early Start in Life. By E. Marryat Norris.
Faggots for the Fireside, or Tales of Fact and Fancy. By
Peter Parley.
For a Dream's Sake. By Mrs. A. H. Martin.
Gladys the Reaper. By Anne Beale.
Golden Curl, and other Fairy Tales. By A. E. A.
Great ahd Small ; Scenes in the Life of Children. Translated
from the French by Miss Harriet Poole. 61 Illustrations.
Grey Towers ; or Aunt Hetty's Will. By M. M. Pollard.
Isabel's Difficulties, or Light on the Daily Path. By M. R. Carey.
Joachim's Spectacles : A Legend op Florbnthal. By M. & C. Lee.

PUBLISHED BY GEIFFITH AND FAEEAN. 13

Three Shillings and Sixpence each — continued^
Kingston's (W. H, G.) Fred Markham in Russia, or, The Boy
Travellers in the Land of the Czar.
,, Manco the Peruvian Chief,
„ Mark Seaworth; a Tale of the Indian Ocean.
„ Peter the Whaler; his Early Life and Adventures
IN THE Arctic Regions.
, , Salt Water, or Neil D'Aecy's Sea Life and Adventures
Left Alone. By Francis Carr.
Lee (Mrs.) Anecdotes of the Habits and Instincts of Animals.
„ Anecdotes of the Habits and Instincts of Birds, Reptiles,
and Fishes,
„ Adventures in Australia, or The Wanderings of Captain
SPENCIK IN the BdSH AND THE WiLDS.
,, The African Wanderers, or Carlos AND Antonio.
Little May's Friends, or Country Pets and Pastimes. By
Annie Whittem.
Michaelmas Daisy. By Sarah Doudnby. Illustrated.
Millicent and Her Cousins. By the Hon. Augusta Bethell.
Mudge and Her Chicks : A Story of Children's Home Doings. By
a Brother and Sister.
My Own Dolly. By Amy E. Blanchard.
My Mother's Diamonds. By Maria J. Greee.
My Sister's Keeper. By L. M. Lane.
New Girl (The), or The Rivals ; a Tale of School Life. Bv
M. E. B. (Mrs. Gellie).
Nimpo's Troubles. By Olive Thoene Miller, Author 'of "Little
Folks in Feather and Fur."
North Pole (The) ; and How Charlie Wilson Discovered it. By
the Author of " Realms of the Ice King," &c.
Our Old Uncle's Home; and what the Boys did there. By
Mother Carey.
Out en the Pampas. By G. A. Henty.
Oak Staircase. By M. and C. Lee.
Queen Dora: The Life and Lessons op a Little Girl. By
Kathleen Kiiox.
Rosamond Fane, or the Prisoners of St. James. By M. and C.
Lee.
Stephen the Schoolmaster. By Mrs. Gellie (M. E. B.).
Talent in Tatters, or some Vioissitddbs in the Life of an
English Boy. By Hope Wraythb.
The Triumphs of Steam, or Stories from the Lives of Watt,
Aekweight, and Stephenson.
Very Genteel. By the Author of " Mrs. Jerningham's Journal. "
The Whispers of a Shell, or Stoeies of the Sea. By Feances
Fbeelino Broderip.
Yoting Francs Tir«urs (The). By G. A. Henty.

14 NEW AND POPULAE WOBXS

ITiree Shillings and Sixpence eac\ cloth elegant, Illustrated.
Among the Zulus. By LtEur.-Goi.. Dbatson. doth, gilt edges.
Attractive Picture Book (The). A New Gift Book from the Old
Comer, containing numerous Illustrations by eminent Artist s.
Bound in KUgant Paper Boards, Royal ito, price 3s. Gd. each
plain; 7s. 6d. coloured; 10s. 6d. mounted on cloth andcohureil.
Berries and Blossoms: a Verse Book for Young People. By T.
Wbstwood.
Bible Illustrations, or A Description op Manners and Customs
peculiar to the East. By the Rev. B. H. Dbapeb. Revised
by Dr. Kitto.
The Bird and Insects' Post Office. By Robert Bloomfield, Author
of "Rural Tales," etc. Illustrated with Thirty-five Wood
Engravings. Crown 4to, paper boards, with Chromo side, (or
cloth elegant, 6s.)
British History Briefly Told (The), and a description op the
Ancient Customs, Sports, and Pastimes of the English.
Four Seasons (The) ; A Short Account of the Structure of Plants,
being Four Lectures written for the Working Men's Institute,
Paris. With Illustrations. Imperial 16mo.
Family Bible Newly Opened (The); with Uncle (Joodwin's
Account op it. By Jefpeeys Taylor. Fcap. 8vo.
Glimpses pf Nature, and Objects op Interest desobibbd durino
A Visit to the Isle op Wight. By Mrs. Loudon. Forty-
one Illustrations.
History of the Robins (The). By Mrs. Trimmer. In Words of
One Syllable. Edited by the Rev. Charles Swbtb, M.A.
Historical Acting Charades, or Amusements fob Winteb Evenings.
By the Author of " Cat and Dog," etc. Fcap. 8vo.
Infant Amusements, or How to make a Nursery Happy. With
Practical Hints on the Moral and Physical Training of Children
By W. H. G. Kingston.
Little Margaret's Bide to the Isle of Wight ; or, The Wondebpcl
Rocking Horse. By Mrs. Frederick Brown. With Eight
niustratiops in ohromo-lithography, by Helen S. Tatham.
Crown 4to. Cloth.
Man's Boot (The), and other Stories in words of Onb Syllable.
Illustrated by Harrison Weir. 4to, gilt edges.
The Mine, or Subterranean Wonders. An Account of the Opera
tions of the Miner and the Products of his Labours.
Modem Sphinx (The). A Collection of Enigmas, Charades, Re
buses, Double AND Triple Acrostics, Anagrams, Logogrtphs,
Metagrams, Verbal Puzzles, Conundrums, etc. Fcap. Svo!

PUBLISHED BY GEIFFITH AND FAEEAN, 15

Three Shillings and Sixpence each — continued.
Our Soldiers, or Anecdotes op the Campaigns and Gallant
Deeds op the British Army during the Reign of Her
Majesty Qubbn Victoria. By W. H. G. Kingston. With
Frontispiece. New and Revised Edition. Eighth Thousand.
Our Sailors, or Anecdotes of the Engagements and Gallant
Deeds of the British Navy. With Frontispiece. New
and Revised Edition. Eighth Thousand.
Sunbeam : a Fairy Tale. By Mrs. Pietzkbr.
Sylvia's New Home, a Story for tha Young. By Mrs. J. F. B.
Firth.
Talks about Science. By T. Dunman.
Taking Tales. Edited by W. H. G. Kingston. In Plain Language
and Large Type. New Edition. Two vols.
May also be had in 4 vols. Is. Gd. each ; and 12 parts, 6rf. and id. each.

Three Shillings and Sixpence plain ; Five Shillings coloured.
Bear King (The) : a Narrative confided to the Marines by James
Greenwood. With Illustrations by Ernest Griset. SmaU 4to.
Familiar Natural History. By Mrs. B. Lee. With 42 Illustra
tions by Harrison Weir.
*^* Also in Two Vols., entitled "British Animals and Birds,"
" Foreign Animals and Birds. " Is. each, plain ; 2s. Bd. coloured.
Old Nurse's Book of Rhymes, Jingles, and Ditties. Illustrated
by 0. H. Bennett. Ninety Engravings.

Three Shillings, or gilt edges. Three and Sixpence.
The Favourite Picture Book and Nursery Companion, Compiled
anew by Uncle Charlie. With 450 Illustrations by eminent
artists. In Two Vols., Cloth elegant (or coloured Illustrations,
price 5s.)
May also be had in the following styles. One Vol., Cloth, 5s.,
or coloured Dlustrations, gilt, 10s. 6c;. Four Parts, paper covers.
Is. each, or coloured Illustrations, 2s. each.
Fruits of Enterprise, bxhibitbd in the Travels of Belzoni in
Egypt and Nubia. With Six Engravings by Birkbt Foster.

16 NEW AND POPULAE ¦WOEKS
Two Shillings and Sixpence plain, Super Royal IGmo,
cloth elegant, with Illustrations ly Harrison Weir
and others.
Adventures and Experiences of Biddy Dorking and of the Fat
Frog. Edited by Mrs. S, C. Hall.
Amy's Wish, and What Came of It, By Mrs. Tyleb.
Animals and their Social Powers. By Mary Turner-Andrewbs.
Crib and Fly : a Tale op Two Terriers.
Doll and Her Friends (The), or Memoirs of the Lady Seraphina.
By the Author of " Cat and Dog."
Early Dawn (The), or Stories to think about.
Every Inch a King, or The Story op Rex and his Friends. By
Mrs. J. Worthington Bliss.
Fairy Gifts, or A Wallet of Wonders. By Kathleen Knox.
Funny Fables for Little Folks.
Fun and Earnest, or Rhymes with Reason. By D'Arcy W.
Thompson. lUusti-ated by C. H. Bennett. Imperial ICmo.
Gerty and May. Eighth Thousand.
By the same Author.
Granny's Story Box. New Edition. With 20 Engravings.
Children of the Parsonage. | The New Baby.

Jack Frost and Betty Snow ; with other Tales for Wintry Nights
and Rainy Days.
Lost in the Jungle; A Tale op the Indian Mutiny. By
Augusta Marryat.
Madelon, By Esther Carr.
Neptune : or The Autobiography op a Newfoundland Dog.
Norris (Emilia Marryat.) A Week by Themselves.
By the same Author.
Geofficy's Great Fault. I Snowed Up,
Seaside Home, | What became of Tommy.

Odd Stories about Animals : told in Short and Easy Words.
Our Home in the Marsh Land, or Days of Auld Lang Syne.
By E. L. F.

PUBLISHED BY GEIFFITH AND FAEEAN. 17
Two Shillings and Sixpence each — continued.
Scripture Histories for Little Children. With Sixteen Illustrations
by John Gilbbet.
Contents : — The History of Joseph-— History of Moses — History
of our Saviour — The Miracles of Christ.
Sold separately 6d. each, plain ; Is. coloured.
Secret of Wrexford (The), or Stella Desmond's Seoebt. By
Esther Caee.
Tales &om Catland. Dedicated to the Young Kittens of England.
By an Old Tabby. Seventh Thousand.
Talking Bird (The), or The Little Giel who knew what was
GOING TO happen. By M. and E. Kirby.
Ten of Them, or The Children op Danbhurst. By Mrs. R. M.
Beay.
" Those Unlucky Twins ! " By A. Lysteb.
Tiny Stories for Tiny Readers in Tiny Words.
Tittle Tattle ; and other Stories for Children. By the Author of
" Little Tales for Tiny Tots," etc.
Trottie's Story Book : True Tales in Short Words aud Largo
Type.
Tuppy, or The Autobiogeaphy of a Donkey.
Wandering Blindfold, or A Boy's Troubles. By Mary Albert.
Adventures of Kwei, the Chinese Girl. By M. E. B. (Mrs. Gbllib).
William Allair, or Running away to Sea. By Mrs. H. Wood.

Two Shillings and Sixpence each, Illustrated.
Adventures of the Pig Family, The. Illustrated.
Among the Zulus : the Adventures of Hans Stork, South Af ricin
Hunter and Pioneer. By Lieut-Colonel A. W. Drayson, R.A.
Boy's Own Toy Maker (The) : a Practical Illustrated Guide to the
useful employment of Leisure Hours. By E. Landells, 200
Illustrations. Enlarged and revised edition.
The Cruise of Ulysses and His Men; or, Tales and Adventures
from the Odyssey, for Boys and Girls. By 0. M. Bell. With
Seven Illustrations by P. Peiolo. Fcap. Svo.
DoUy Dear ! By Mary E. Gelub (M. E. B.).
Girl's Own Toy Maker (The), and Book op Recreation. By E.
and A. Landells. With 200 Illustrations.
Goody Two Shoes. A Reprint of tho Original Edition, with
introduction by Chas. Welsh.

18 NEW AND POPULAE WOEKS

Two Shillings and Sixpence each — continued.
The GuestB of Flowers : A Botanical Sketch. By Mrs. Meetkbeke.
With Prefatory Letter by Dr. Theodore EjaJNER. Cloth,
small 4to.
The Guests at Home. A Sequel to the above. By the same
Author. Small 4to.
Little Child's Fable Book. Arranged Progressively in One, Two
and Three Syllables. 16 Pago Ulus. (4s. 6d. coloured, gilt edges.)
Little Pilgrim (The). Revised and Illustrated by Helen Petrib.
Model Yachts, and Model Yacht Sailing: How to Build, Rig
AND Sail a Self-acting Model Yacht. By Jas. E. Walton
V.M.Y.C. Fcap. 4to, with 58 Woodcuts.
St, Aubyns Laddie. By E. C. Phillips.
Silly Peter : A Queer Story op a Daft Boy, a Peince, and a
Millee's Daughtee. By W. Noeeis.
Spring Time; or. Words in Season. A Book for Girls. By
Sidney Cox. Third Edition.

A NEW UNIFORM SERIES OF HALF-CROWN BOOKS.
Cloth elegant, fully Illustrated.
African Pets : or. Chats about oue Animal Feiends in Natal.
With a Sketch of Kapfib Life. By F. Clinton Parry.
Bunchy : or. The Childeen of Scarsbrook Farm. By Miss E. C.
Phillips, Author of " St. Aubyn's Laddie," &o.
Bryan and Katie, By Annette Lysteb. Illustrated by Haeby
Fubniss.
A Daring Voyage across the Atlantic, by Two Americans, the
Brothers Andrews, in a small Boat, the Nautilus. The Log
of the Voyage by Captain William A. Andrews, with Intro
duction and Notes by Dr. Macaulay, Editor of the Botfs Own
Paper.
A Gem of an Aunt. By Mrs. Gellie (M.E.B.)
Hilda and Her Doll. By E. C. Phillips, AutW of "Bunchy," &c.
The House on the Bridge, aud other Tales. By C. E. Bowen,
Author of " Among the Brigands," &o.
Kitty and Bo: or. The Stoey op a. Very Little Giel and Boy.
By A. T. With Frontispiece.
On the Leads : or. What the Planets Saw. By Mrs. A. A.
Steange Butson.
Two Eose Trees: The Adventures of Twin Sisters. By Mrs.
Minnie Douglas.
Ways and Tricks of Animals, with Stoeies about Aunt Mary's
Pets. By Maey Hoopee.
We four. By Mrs. R. M. Bray,

PUBLISHED BY GEIFFITH AND TAEEAN. 19

COMICAL PICTURE BOOKS.
Two Shillings and Sixpence each, Coloured Plates,
fancy boards.
English Struwwelpeter (The} : or Prbity Stories and Funny
PiarcBES for Little CmLDRiar. After tha celebrated German
Work, Dr. Hbinbioh Hoffmann. Twenty-sixth Edition.
Twenty-four pages of Illustrations (or mounted on linen, 5s.)
Funay Picture Book (Xh^); °^ ^^ Funny Little Lessons. A
free Translation from ike German of "Deb Klbinb A.B.C.
ScHiiTz."
Loves of Tom Tucker and Little Bo-Peep. Written and Illus
trated by Thomas Hood.
Spectropia, or Surprising Spectral Illusions, showing Ghosts
everywhere, and ot any colour. By J. H. Brown.
Upside Down : a Series of Amusing Pictures from Sketches by the
late W. McConnell, with Verses by Thomas Hood.

Two Shillings, elofh elegant, with Illustrations, or with
coloured plates, gilt edges, Three Shillings,
Fanny aud Her Mamma, or. Easy Lessons for Children.
Little Lessons for Little Learners, in Words of One Syllable. By
Mrs. Babwbll.
Mamma's Bible Stories, for Her Little Boys and Girls.
Mamma's Bible Stories (A Sequel to).
Mamma's Lessons, for her Little Boys and Girls.
Silver Swan (The) ; a Fairy Tale. By Madame de Chatelain.
Tales of School Life. By Agnes Loudon.
Wonders of Home, in Eleven Stories (The). By Geandfathee
Geby. 
Two Shillings each.
Confessions of a Lost Dog (The). Reported by her Mistress,
Frances Power Cobbe. With a Photograph of the Dog from
Life, by Frank Haes.
Home Ainusements ; a Choice Collection of Riddles, Charades,
Conundrums, Parlour Games, and Forfeits.
How to Make Dolls' Furniture and to Furnish a Doll's House.
/ With 70 Illustrations. Small 4to.
Illustrated Paper Model Maker. By E. Landells.
Only a Cat's Tale. By E.M.B.
Scenes of Animal Life and Character, prom nature and
BECOiXBCnoN. In Twenty Plates; By J. B. 4to, fancy boards.
Surprising Adventures of the Clumsy Boy Crusoe (The). By
Charles H. Ross. With Twenty-three Coloured Illusta-ations.

20 NEW AND POPULAE WOEKS

UNIFORM IN SIZE AND STYLE.
Price One Shilling and Sixpence each, cloth elegant,
fully Illustrated.
Angelo ; or, The Pine Foeest in the Alps. By Geraldine
E. Jewsbuey. Sth Thousand.
Aunt Annette's Stories to Ada, By Annette A. Salaman.
Babies' Museum, The. By Uncle Chaelib.
Brave Nelly; or. Weak Hands and a Willing Heart. By
M. E. B. (Mrs. Gbllib). 5th Thousand. «
Featherland; or. How the Birds Lived at Greeslawn. By
G. M. Fenn. 4th Thousand.
Humble Life : a Tale of Humble Homes. By the Author of
" Gerty and May," &c.
Kingston's (W. H. G.) Child of the Wreck : or. The loss of
the Royal George.
Lee's (Mrs. R.) Playing at Settlers ; or, The Faggot House.
 Twelve Stories of the Sayings and Doings
of Animals.
Little Lisette, the Orphan of Alsace. By M.E.B. (Mrs. Gellie).
Live Toys; or. Anecdotes of oue Foue-Legged and other Pets.
By Emma Davenport.
Long Evenings ; or, Stories foe My' Little Friends. By Emilia
Makryat,
Three Wishes (The). By M.E.B. (Mrs. Gbllib).

Price One Shilling and Sixpence each.
Every-Day Things, or Useful Knowledge respecting the prin
cipal Animal, Vegetable, and Mineral Substances in
common use.
Little Roebuck (The), from the German. Illustrated by LossON.
Fancy boards (2s. coloured).
Taking Tales. Edited by W H. G. Kingston. In Plain Language
and large Type. Four vols.
May also be had in Two vols., 3s. 6d. each ; and in 12 parte,
paper covers, price id. each ; or cloth limp, 6d. each.
Trimmer's (Mrs.) New Testament Lessons. With 40 Engravings.

PUBLISHED BY GEIFFITH AND FAEEAN. 21
THE CHERRY SERIES OF EIGHTEENPENNY
BOOKS for Presents and Prizes for Boys and Girls.
T/wy are all illustrated and attractively bound in cloth, printed in gold and
silver.
Adventures in Fanti-land. By Mrs. R. Lee.
Always Happy ; or, Anecdotes of Felix and his Sister.
A Child's Influence. By Lisa Lockyer.
Battle and Victory ; or the Painter's Career. By C. E.
Bowen.
Constance and Nellie. By Emma Davenport.
Corner Cottage, and its Inmates. By Frances Osborne.
Distant Homes ; or, . The Graham Family in New
Zealand. By Mrs. J. E. Aylmer.
Father Time's Story Book. By Kathleen Knox.
From Peasant to Prince. By Mrs. Pietzker.
Good in Everything; or. The Early Days of Gilbert
Harland. By Mrs. Harwell.
Granny's Wonderful Chair. By B. F. Browne.
Happy Holidays. By Emma Davenport.
Happy Home. By Lady Lushington.
The Heroic Wife. By W. H. G. Kingston.
Helen in Switzerland. By Lady Lushington.
Holidays Abroad ; or. Right at Last. By Emma Davenport.
Lucy's Campaign. By M. & C. Lee.
Lost in the Jungle. By Augusta Marryat.
Louisa Broadhurst By A. Milner.
My Grandmother's' Budget. By Mrs. Broderip.
Our Birthdays, and how to Improve them. By Emma
Davenport.
Our Home in the Marshland. By E. L. F.
Pictures of Girl Life. By C. A. Howell.
School Days in Paris. By M. S. Le Jeune.

22 NEW AND POPDLAB WOBKB
THE HAWTHORN SERIES OF SHILLING
BOOKS for Presents and Prizes for Boys and Girls.
They are all illustrated and attractively bound in clothe printed in gold and
silver.
Adrift on the Sea. By E. M. Norris.
Alice and Beatrice. By Grandmamma.
Among the Brigands. By C. E. Bowen.
The Children's Picnic. By E. Marryat Norris.
Christian Elliott ; or, Mrs. Danver's Prize. By L. N. Comyn.
Claudine ; or. Humility the Basis of all the Virtues. By
the Author of " William Tell," &c.
Cat and Dog ; or Puss and the Captain.
.Children of the Parsonage.
The Discontented Children. By M. & E. Kirby.
Fickle Flora and her Seaside Friends. By EmmaDavenport.
Grandmamma's Relics. By C. E. Bowen.
Harry at School. A Story for Boys. By E. Marryat Norris.
The Hero of Brittany ; or. The Story of Bertrand du
Guesclin.
Hofer, the Tyrolese. By the Author of " William Tell."
Holiday Tales. Bv^lorence Wilford.
Holidays among tKe Mountains. By M. Betham Edwards.
Johnny Miller. By Felix Weiss.
Julia Maitland. By M. & E. Kirby.
Our White Violet.
Paul Howard's Captivity. By E. Marryat Norris.
The Stolen Cherries ; or, Tell the Truth at Once.
Sunny Days.
Wrecked, not Lost. By the Hon. Mrs. Dundas.
William Tell, the Patriot of Switzerland. By Florian.

THE FAVOUEITE LIBRARY.
New Editions of the Volumes in this Series are being issued, and
other Volumes by Popular Authors will be added.
Cloth elegant, with coloured fro'ntispiece and title-page.
One Shilling each.
1. The Eskdale Herd Boy. By Lady Stoddaet.
2. Mrs. Leicester's School. Br Charles and Mary Lamb.
'3. The History of the Bobins. By Mrs. Trimmer
4. Memoir of Bob, The Spotted Terrier.
5. Keeper's Travels iu Search of His Master,
6. The Scottish Orphans. By Lady Stoddaet.
7. Never Wrong ; or, the Young Disputant ; & It was only iu Fun,
8. The Life and Perambulations of a Mouse.
9, The Son of a Genius. By Mes. Hofland.
10. The Daughter of a Genius. By Mrs. Hofland.
11. Ellen, the Teacher, By Mrs. Hofland.
12. Theodore; or The Crusaders. By Mrs. Hofland.
13. Eight and Wrong. By the Author of " Always Happy."
14. Harry's Holiday. By Jbffeeys Taylor.
15. Short Poems and Hymns for Children.

Price One Shilling each.

The Picturesque Primer. Paper Boards.
Fragments of Knowledge for Little Polk. Paper Boards.
Easy Beading for Little Beaders. Paper Boards
The Nursery Companion. Paper Boards.
These Four Volumes contain about 450 pictures. Each one being
complete in itself, and bound in an attractive paper cover, in boards
(also with coloured Illustrations, 2s.), m- in Two Voh., chth, 3s., or
coloured Illustrations, 5s.
The Four Volumes bound together form the "Favourite Picture Book,'''
bound m cloth, price 5s., or coloured Illustrations, gilt edges, 10s. 6d.
Australian Babes iu the Wood (The) : a True Story told in Rhyme
for the Touug. Price Is. boards, Is, 6d. cloth, gilt edges.
Cowslip (The). Fully Illustrated cloth. Is. plain; Is. 6d. coloured.
Daisy (The), Fully Illustrated cloth. Is. plain; Is. 6d. coloured.
Dame Partlett's Farm, An Account of the Riches she obtained
BY Industry, &c. Coloured Illustrations, sewed.
Female Christian Names, and their Teachings. A Gift Book for
Girls. By Mary E. Bromfield. Cloth, gilt edges
Golden Words for Children, from the Book of Life. In English,
French, and German. A set of Illuminated Cards in Packet.
Or bound in cloth interleaved, price 2s. &d. gilt edges.

24 NEW AND POPULAE WOEKS
One Shilling each — continued.
Classics for the Million. New and cheaper edition. An ejiitome -
of the works of the principal Greek and Latin Authors. By
H. Grey. Or bound in cloth, price 5s.
Fairy Gifts ; or, a Wallet of. Wonders. By K. Knox.
Fairy Laud. By T. and J. Hood.
Short Stories for Children about Animals. Illustrated by Harrison
Weir.
Goody Two Shoes : or The History of Little Margbey Mean-
well IN Rhyme Fully Illustrated, cloth.
Hand Shadows, to be thrown upon the Wall. Novel and amusing
figures formed by the hand. By "Henry Bubsill. New and
cheaper Edition. Twelfth Thousand. Two Series in one.
(Or coloured Illustrations, Is. 6d)
Headlong Career (The) and Woeful Ending of Precocious Piggy.
By Thomas Hood. Illustrated by his Son. Printed iu colours.
Fancy wrapper, 4to. (Or mounted on cloth, untearable, 2s.)
Johnny BEller ; or Thuth and Pebsevbeancb. By Felix Weiss.
Nine Lives of a Cat (The) : a Tale of Wonder. Written and Illus
trated by C. H. Bennett. _ 24 Coloured Engravings, sewed.
Peter Piper. Peaotical Peinciples of Plain and Perfect Pro
nunciation. Coloured Illustrations, sewed.
Plaiting Pictures. A Novel Pastime by •vsthich Children can
CONSTRUCT AND RECONSTRUCT PICTURES FOR THBMSPA.'VBS. Four
Series in Fancy Coloured Wrappers. Oblong 4to.
First Series. — Juvenile Party — Zoological Gardens — The Gleaner.
Second Series. — Birds' Pic-nic— Cats' Concert — Three Bears.
Third Series. — Blind Man's BufE — Children in the Wood — Snow Man.
Fourth Series. — Grandfather's Birthday — Gymnasium — Playroom.
Primrose Pilgrimage (The) : a Woodland Story. By M. Betham
Edwards. Illustrated by Macquoid. Sewed.
Bhymes and Pictures about Bread, Tea, Sugar, Cotton, Coals,
AND Gold. By William Ne'WMAN, Seventy-two Illustrations.
Price Is. plain ; 2s. 6d. coloured.
*jf* Each Subject may be had separately. Gd. plain ; Is. coloured.
Short and Simple Prayers, "with Hymns for the Use of
Children. By the Author of " Mamma's Bible Stories." Six
teenth Thousand. Cloth.
Whittington and his Cat. Coloured niustratious, sewed.
Young Vocalist (The). A Collection of Twelve Songs, each 'with
an Accompaniment for the Pianoforte. By Mrs. Mounsey
Bartholomew. New and Cheaper Edition. (Or bound in
cloth, price 2s.) 
DURABLE NURSERY BOOKS.
Mounted on cloth with coloured plates, One Shilling each,
1. Cock Robin. I 3. Dame Teot and heb Cat.
2. CouBTBHip OF Jenny Ween. | 4. House that Jack Built.
Puss IN Boots.

PUBLISHED BY GEIFFITH AND FAEEAN.

25

Price Sixpence each. Plain ; One Shilling, coloured.
ILLUSTRATED BY HARRISON 'WEIR AND JOHN GILBERT.

6d.

1. British Animals. 1st Series.
2. British Animals, 2nd Series.
S. British Birds,
4. Forei^ Animals.' 1st Series.
5. Foreign Animals, 2nd Series.
6. Foreign Birds.
7. The Farm and its Soenes.

8. The diverting History of John
Gilpin.
9. The Peaoook's Homo and Butter
fly's Ball,
10, History of Joseph,
11. Histoiy of Moses.
12. Life of our Saviour.

13. Uiraoles of Christ.

His Name was Hero,

Price Is., sewed.
By the same Author.

How I became a Governess. 3rd Edit,
2s. cloth ; 23. 6d. gilt edges.
Ky Pretty Puss, Vith Frontispiece,
Price 6d.« The Hare that Found his Way Home. Price 6d,

The Grateful Sparrow : a True Story.
Fifth Edition. Price 6d.
The Adventures of a Butterfly.
Price 3d.

WOEKS FOE DISTEIBUTION.

A 'Woman's Secret s or, How to make
Home Happy. Thirty-third Thou
sand. 18mo, price ed^

By the same Author, uniform in size
and price.
Woman's Work; or. How she cam
Help the Sick. 19th Thousand.
A Chapter of Aooidents; or, The
Motheb's Asbibtaht is Cases
or BoasB, Scaibs, Cuts, &c.
Ninth Thousand.

Pay to-day, Trust to-morrow; il
lustrating the Evils of the Tally
System. Seventh Thousand.
Nursery 'Work ; or, Hannah Baker's
FiKBT Place. Filth Thousand.
The Cook and the Doctor; or, Cheap
Becipes and Usepul Eemedies.
Selected from the first three books.
Price 2(i.
Home Difficulties, A Few 'Words on
the Servant Question, id.
Family Prayers for Cottage Homes.
Price 2a.

26

NEW AND POPULAE WOEKS

Price 9^. each elegantly bound in Paper Boards, with
Covers in Chromolithography.

THE

TINY NATURAL HISTORY SERIES

OF STOEY BOOKS ABOUT ANIMALS FOE LITTLE EEADEES.
ALL PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED BY THE BEST ARTISTS.
Especially adapted for School Prizes and Rewards. In one way
or another, the books either impart knowledge about Animals,
or inculcate the desirableness of treating them with kindness.

Little Nellie's Bird Cage. By Mrs.
E. Lee, Author of "The A&ican
'Wanderers," &c.
The Tiny ISenagerie. By.Mrs. E. Lee,
Author of "The A&ioan 'Wan
derers," &c.
The Dog Postman, By the Author of
"Odd Stories."
The mischievous Monkey. By the
Author of " Odd Stories."
Lily's Letters from the Farm. By
Mart Hooper, Author of " 'Ways
and Tricks of Animals."
Our Dog Prin. By Mart Hooper,
Author of "'Ways and Tricks of
Animals."

Little Neddie's Menagerie. By Mrs.
K. Lee, Author of " The African
'Wanderers," &c.
Frolicsome Frisk and his Friendsi
By. the Author of "Trottie's
Story Book."
Wise Birds and Clever Dogs. By the
Author ol "Tuppy," "Tiny
Stories," &c.
Artful Fussy. By the Author ot" Odd
Stories," Sob.
The Pet Pony, By the Author of
" Trottie's Story Book."
Bow Wow Bobby. By the Author of
" Tuppy," " Odd Stories," &e.

The above 12 vols, in Cardboard Box with Picture Top, price 9«.

PUBLISHED BY GEIFFITH AND FAEBAN. 27
In 12 Parts, cloth limp, fancy binding, with Chromo on side.
Price 6d. each, or paper covers, id. each^
TAKING TALES.
Edited by "W. H. G. Kingston. Fully illustrated.

N.B. — Fach Tdle is Illustrated and complete in itself.

1. The Miller of Hillbrook : a Eueal Tale.
8. Tom Trueman : A Sailor in a Merchantman.
3. Michael Hale and His Family in Canada.
4. John Armstrong, the Soldier.
6. Joseph Eudge, the Australian Shepherd.
6. Life Underground; or, Dick the Colliery Boy.
7. Life on the Coast ; or, the Little Fisher Girl.
8. Adventures of Two Orphans in Loudon.
9. Early Days on Soard a Man-of-War.
10. Walter, the Foundling : a Tale op Olden Times.
11. The Tenants of Sunnyside Farm.
12. Holmwood: or, the New Zealand Settler.
13. A Bit of Fun, and what it cost.
14. Sweethearts : A Tale of Village Life.
15. Helpful Sam.

N.B.—May also be had in i vols. Is. Gd. each, and 2 vols. 3s. Gd. each.

28 • NB'W AND POPULAE 'WOEKS

OUR BOYS' LITTLE LIBRARY. .
PICTUEES AND BEADING FOE LITTLE FOLK.
A Series of Twelve elegant little volumes in Paper Boards,
with attractive Covers in Ghromolithography, price
id. each; or in cloth extra price 6d. each. The 12
vols, in a Box with Fancy Lid, price is. and 6s.
Every page is Elustrated.

They are especially suited for School Prizes and Rewards.

1. Papa's Pretty Gift Book.
2. Mamma's Pretty Gift Book.
3. Neddy's Picture Story Book.
4. Stories for Play Time.
5. The Christmas Gift Book.
6. The Prize Picture Book.
7. Little Tommy's Story Book
8. Bright Picture Pages.
9. My Little Boy's Story Book.
10- What Santa Claus gave me.
11. Tiny Stories for Tiny Boys.
12. Little Boy Blue's Picture Book.

PiJBLISHED BY GEIFFITH AND FAEEAN. 29
OUR GIRLS' LITTLE LIBRARY.
PICTURES AND READING FOR LITTLE FOLK.
A Series of Twelve elegant little volumes in Paper
Boards, with attractive Covers in Ghromolithography,
price id. each; or in cloth extra, price 6d. each. The
12 vols, in Box ivith Fancy Lid, price is. and 6s. Every
page is Illustrated.
They are especially suited for School Prizes and Rewards.
1. Nellie's Picture Stories.
2. Stories and Pictures for little Trouhlesome.
3. Little Trotabout's Picture Stories.
4. Birdie's Scrap Book.
5. Stories for Little Curly Locks.
6. Bright Pictures for Boguish Eyes.
7. Daisy's Picture Album
8. Wee- Wee Stories for Wee-Wee Girls.
9. May's Little Story Book.
10. Gipsy's Favourite Companion.
11. My Own Story Book. •
12. Pretty Pet's Gift Book.

30 POETICAL HISADBB9.

READING & RECITATION OF POETRY.
POETRY FOR THE YOUNG.
A Collection of Suitable Poems by the Best
Authors, carefully graduated to meet the requirements of the
New Code in the several Standards.
Cloth, Price gd.
Poetry for the Young. Book L, 128 pages, for
Lower Standards. Cloth, Price is.
Poetry for the Young. Book IL, 176 pages, for
Higher Standards.
In Books I. and II. a number is prefixed to the "title of each poem',
indicating the Standard for which it seems to be most suitable.
Cloth, Price is.
Poetry for the Young. Book IIL, 194 pages for
Standards VI. and VII. in large Schools, and for Junior Pupil
Teachers. Cloth, Price gd.
Poetry for the Young. Book IV, 166 pages for
Senior Pupil Teachers and for Training Colleges.

Biographical and Explanatory Notes are appended to each book.
They are all well printed on exceUent paper and strongly bound.
" It is the first successful efibrt to produce a well-gradiiated book of
poetry for elementary and middle-class schools." — Schoolmistrtss.

Prospectuses containing tables of contents, &c., sent on application.

GEOGRAPHICAL READERS,

31

GRIFFITH & FARRAN'S GEOGRAPHICAL
READERS
By j, R, BLAKISTO N, M.A,
Adapted by the School Boards for London, Leeds^ Leicester^
Derby, &^c.
Book I., for Standard I.
Early Glimpses. Fcap. 8vo., 96 pages, with
Twenty-two Illustrations, cloth limp, cut flush, price ^d.
It is intended to bridge over the gap oj observation and inquiry^ the Jttsi
between, the Object Lessons ^ Infant chapters being arranged with a view
Classesandthe Elementary Geography to implant a taste Jor physical, the
of more advanced classes^ and to assist latter for commercial, geography.
teachers in training children to habits \
Book II., for. Standard II.
Glimpses of the Globe. A Geographical Reading
Book, 40 Chapters. 156 pages, cloth, ij*.

"A very comtnendable attempt to
simplify the teaching of the elsfjtents
of geography." — Educationat. News.
*' IVe are strongly of opinion that

Mr. Blakiston. has succeeded most
admirably in carrying out his inten
tion in producing t^tis little treatise.**
—Educational Chkonicle.

Book III., for Standard III.
Glimpses of England. 40 Chapters. 156 pages,

cloth I J.
" The language employed is well
'within the cott^rehension of Third
Standard children^ and the book is

unguestionahly written in pleasant
and interesting style." — Teacher.

Book IV., for Standard IV,
Glimpses of the British Empire, in 66

Sections. Cloth, li*. 6d.
-Educational

"This little volume -should be
specially noted by teachers in search of
a good geographical reading book." —
Educational Times.

^^ A verygoodbookJ
News. *¦ The whole volume contains a very
fair outline of the empire onwhich the
smt never sets."—ScHOOL,.
Book V., for Standards V.— VII.
Glimpses of the Earth. 320 pages, cloth, 2s.

6d.

' The book is admirably adapted to
remind a teacher of the topics he ought
to introduce in each lesson. —Book
seller.

*' Conveys many a useful lesson." r—
Daily Telegraph.
*' Will prove real and lasting service
in schools."-^!) AiUY Chronicle.

IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT.

Messrs. GRIFFITH & FARRAN beg to announce that they have
in active preparation, and will shortly publish, o.
NEW SERIES of SCHOOL READING BOOKS,
TO BE ENTITLED, THE
"STANDARD AUTHORS" READERS.
By the EDITOR of ' POETRY for the YOUNG.'
The Books have been planned throughout to meet exactly the requirements of
the New Mundella Code. They will be well printed from clear type, on
good paper, bound in a strong and serviceable manner, and will have
interesting and useful Illustrations from beginning to end.
In the Infants' Books of the Series, very careful graduation in the introduction
of sounds and words will be combined with that great desideratum in
Infants' Readers, an interesting connected narrative form.
The distinctive features of the Series in the Higher Books will be that the
passages selected (both prose and -poetry) will be taken from the works of
Standard Authors, thus complying with the requirements of the New Code,
and that they will be of such a nature as to awaken, sustain^ and cultivate
the interest of youthful readers.
The Explanatory matter^ will be placed at the end of each Book (so that
children may, at the discretion of the teacher, be debarred access to it), and
will take the form of three appendices : —
(a) Explanatory Notes.
(b) Biographical Notes.
(c) A Glossary of Rare or Difficult Words.
The compilation has been made with the utmost care, with the assistance
and adyice of gentlemen long conversant with the requirements of Public
Elementary Schools ; and the Publishers feel that the literary, artistic, and
mechanical excellences of the Books will be such that the series will be
pronounced The '* Ne Plus Ultra " of School Beading Books.
The Books for Standards V., VI., and VII. will be ready shortly, and
Specimen Pages and full Prospectuses, with Tables of Contents of the various
Books, are preparing for distribution to all teachers applying for them.

GRIFFITH &. FARRAN, St. Paul's Churchyard, London.

YALE UNIVERSITY

a39002 003737i*35b

YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

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