YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

PICTURES

LIFE IN MEXICO

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1351.

PICTURES

LIFE IN MEXICO

By R. H. MASON.

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IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.

LONDON:
SMITH, ELDER AND CO., 65, CORN HILL.
1852.

MexWo EVra

London :
Printed by Stewart and Mukkat,
Old Bailey.

CONTENTS OF VOL. II.

CHAPTER XXII.
THE ARRIERO, OR CARRIER,
Varieties of Mexican scenery — Difficulties of travelling— A way
side cross — Tropical trees and snowy mountains — The valley of
Mexico^Transmission of goods— Newspapers— Postal com
munication — Mexican carriers-^Adventure of an arriero — A
discovery^Au escape— A band of ladrones . . page 1

CHAPTER XXIII.
A FERJA, OR FAIR.
Their characteristics in different districts — Number of annual fairs
— Chinampas, or floating gardens — Mexican pedlars — Sale by
measurement — Juggler and serpent charmer — Dancing girls —
Perambulating restaurateurs — Vendors of stolen goods — Tem
porary theatres^Padres and lookers-on — Pronunciamientos —
An insurrection . . . . . .18

VI CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXIV.
SEA-PORTS.
Unhealthiness of Mexican ports— Country round Vera Cruz-
Natural productions— Harbour of Vera Cruz— St. Juan de
Ulloa— Rainy season— City of Vera Cruz— Commerce of the
port-harbour of Tampico— Surrounding country — Matamoras—
Acapulco— San Bias— Mazatlan— Port dues and other charges-
Custom-house officers — Amusing incident . - .34
CHAPTER XXV.
CITIES AND PROVINCES.
Valley of Mexico— Lakes — Principal Roads — Old City of Te-
nochtitlan — New City — City of Mexico — Puebla — Xalapa —
Perote — Gueretaro— Guanajuato — Zacatecas — Durango — Santa
Pe — Caneles — Tamazula — Cuernavoca — Cuautla — Yucatan —
Tabasco — Chiapa — Vera Paz . . . .51

CHAPTER XXVI.
INDEPENDENT MEXICANS.
National pride— Patronizing manners — Drunken independence —
A swaggering postilion— Braggadocio and abasement — The ad
ventures of an intoxicated family group . , .62

CONTENTS. Vll
CHAPTER XXVII.
INCIDENT AT A PUEBLO.
Story of an old alcalde — Life in an isolated hamlet — Indian cattle-
stealers — The savages' revenge — The padre and his household-
Terrible storm — Hacienda set on fire by Indians — Horrible
slaughter — Escape of prisoners . . . .74
CHAPTER XXVIII.
MEXICAN HACIENDAS, OR FARMS.
Character of scenery — State of agriculture — Fences, implements,
and crops — A hacienda — The agave, or maguey plant — Mode
of obtaining pulque — The Vaquero, or cow-herd — A lazy brute
and his canine companion — Seeking stray sheep . . 85
CHAPTER XXIX.
A PLANTATION ANECDOTE.
Culture of tobacco — A plantation — Processes at a tobacco factory
— Rival planters — Malicious dilapidation — Destructive reprisal
— Duel between the rival proprietors . . .99
CHAPTER XXX.
WILD-CATTLE HUNTERS.
Dexterity in lassoing — Cattle-hunters' fare — Defence of wild-
cattle against wolves — Inducements to hunters— Departure for
a cargo of hides — Sunset on the prairie — The hunter's terrible
dream— A perilous position— Combat and retreat— Struggle in
the water — Safe deliverance .... 107

Vlll CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXXI.
SNAKE-HUNTING.
Poresji p^hs— A narrow escape — Mule killed by a serpent— Snake-
hungers and their implements^-A trpphj of the chase— Snake-
hunter's song . . .... 121
CHAPTER XXXII.
A SONG TO THE VIRGIN.
Travellers' anticipations— Beauties of Mexican sqenery— Mountain
passes— Tropical trees and flowers — River scene — Distant view
— Music at twilight — Song to the Virgin , . 126
CHAPTER XXXIII.
TREASURE-SEEKERS AND CONTRABANDISTAS.
Mestizo digging fpr treasure,^THopeS and misfortunes of Lope
Cluca — Unexpected dis,cpyery— Robbery planned — The dia
mond recovered — Proceedings of contrabandistas . 132
CHAPTER XXXIV.
A MONKEY ANECDOTE.
Habits of monlceys— Their spciality— Treatment of e^ph other—
Crossipg a stream— A serpent's breakfast— T>§ monkeys'
manoeuvre to revenge their comrader^The snake destroy e,4 152

CONTENTS. IX
CHAPTER XXXV.
ANCIENT AZTEC TEMPLES AND WORSHIP.
Manner of addressing priests— Formation of lengthy Aztec words
—Temples and idols— Great temple of Teocalli, its square wall,
gates, and threshold gods — Initiatory chapel and its accessories
— Square for religious dances — Dimensions of temple— Steps
and balustrade of different stories— Platform and holy towers —
Vessels for sacred fire — Minor chapels —Religious sacrifices —
Gods of providence and war — Colossal female idol — Ancient
worship . . . . . . .160
CHAPTER XXXVI.
MEXICAN GOVERNMENT AND CONSTITUTION.
A troubled peripd — Present constitution— Privileges of citizens —
Legislative power— Qualifications of president — Government
epuncil — Judicial power — Elections — Events prior and sub
sequent to formation of this constitution . . 172
CHAPTER XXXVII.
COMMERCIAL TREATY WITH GREAT BRITAIN-
Articles of amity and commerce — Ships of war and post-office
packets — Importation duties — Tonnage and pilotage — Regula
tions for vessels and prizes — Passports — Personal liberty —
Property and estates — Unlading of goods — Resident consuls —
Safe-conduct — Religion — Former convention — Abolition of the
slave-trade — Additional articles for the benefit of Mexican
commerce ...... 178

X CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
COMMERCE OF MEXICO.
Causes of its decline— Revenues— Imports and exports— Average
commercial returns for one year from Vera Cruz, Tampico,
Matamoras, San Bias, and Mazatlan— Statement of charges on
foreign shipping — Example of tonnage duty • ¦ 196
CHAPTER XXXIX.
MEXICAN COMMERCE — COTTON MANUFACTURE.
Manufactures under the old Spanish Government— Amount of
exports and imports — Account and statistics of cotton manu
facture — Mexican cotton crops — Average prices — Water power
— Puebla — Climate and raw material — Table of Mexican
weights and measures — Table of coinage . . 207
CHAPTER XL.
EONS, PRC
DUTIES.
Admission of vessels — Number of ports open to foreign commerce
— Goods free of duties — Invoices — List of prohibited articles
— Exempted articles — Measurement of goods — List of duties
in Mexican and British monies, on admitted articles — Articles
of flax, &c. — Wood, &c. — Silks— Of cotton manufacture 221

CONTENTS. XI
CHAPTER XLI.
PASSPORTS AND PENALTIES.
Rules for register of passengers — Written report of foreigners —
Restrictions on entering the country — Carta de Seguridad, or
card of safety — Penalties on violating regulations for shipment
— Penalties on false money .... 246
CONCLUDING CHAPTER.
Striking features of the country — Motives for exposition of facts
— Physical weakness of the people — Want of mental energy —
Isolation and prohibitory duties — House and land rents —
Financial difficulties — Various classes — State of the tine arts—
The army, trade, law, and medicine — Social qualities — Litera
ture, language, and education — Political future . ,253

PICTURES OE LIEE

MEXICO.

CHAPTER XXII.
THE ARR1ER0, OR CARRIER.
Varieties of Mexican scenery. — Difficulties of travelling.
— A wayside cross. — Tropical trees and snowy moun
tains. — The Valley of Mexico. — Transmission of goods.
— Newspapers. — Postal communication. — Mexican car
riers. — Adventure of an arriero. — A discovery. — Au
escape. — A band of ladrones.
Away over narrow, precipitous mountain
roads ; down among- pleasant valleys ; out
-*~upon the rocky highways, beside gray and
dreary ruins; or in the shade of feathery
woods, that border ravines thundering- with the
roar of cataracts, plods the faithful arriero
beside his laden mule. Throug-h misty dells,
by long- deserted haciendas ; passing- stacks of
oca and charcoal-burners' huts, beside fields
VOL. II. B

2 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
of chil6, near ag-ave plantations. Beneath
majestic bananas ; through bowers of palm
and cocoa trees; by sweet-scented orang-e
groves, hedg-es of prickly pear, and flowers
overhanging- beds of water-melons. Now
tracking the prairie paths, or threading the
broad alamedas; then skirting the banks of
lakes, or crossing marshy grounds; passing
through sunny towns, enwrapped in after
noon siestas, under the walls of convents and
splendid cathedrals, or past adobe houses. —
Steadily he plods onward, as cheerful as he is
faithful, and patient as the sure-footed mule
beside him.
Bandying jest and laugh with the women
and children on his route ; greeted by miners
returning from their work; cross-questioned
by the priests at intervals ; bullied at the gates
of cities ;, examined by petty officers. Drenched,
foot-sore, bespattered with mire ; through tor
nadoes and thunderstorms ; in peril from ser
pents, wild beasts, and robbers; still, he
pushes onward. At sunrise, by starlight,
through cloudy days, and moonlight nig-hts.
By the lair of wolves ; by the caves of bri
gands ; past death-crosses on the road ; beside
the bodies of murdered travellers ; startled by

A MOUNTAIN RAVINE. 3
the flocks of wild-fowl which rise to the echo
of his footsteps. Mingling among the crowded
ferias; delayed by the passing of monkish
processions ; sharing the hospitality of village
homes; dividing the amount of his scanty
provisions with his mule ; gazing in astonish
ment and awe upon the ruins of temples erected
to the ancient Aztec gods.
Still the arriero urges onward — onward
ever ! trusty ever ! hearty ever ! uncomplaining
and enduring as the mule, his dumb com
panion : ever anxious to fulfil his engage
ment, and to merit the confidence which has
been reposed in him.
Now he approaches a deep ravine upon the
great Bio del Norte, through which, for several
miles, the pent-up stream rushes in rapid tor
rents. Not even an Indian canoe can pass
those deep -sunk streams ; and the abyss, viewed
by a stranger from its top, is wonderfully
magnificent and fearful. The sides of the
craggy precipices are in some places almost
perpendicular ; while in others they overhang,
at a tremendous height, the furious current
below. Here the river is broad, there it nar
rows to a rapid rivulet; at one point the
rocks appear ready to fall on each other,

4 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
further on, they are frightfully rent asunder,
and it requires steady nerves and firm footing
to approach their overhanging summits with
impunity. Such stupendous scenery has great
attraction for the traveller, and a lover of
Nature might gaze upon it for hours together,
in wondering admiration; — the arriero, how
ever, does not yield to the temptation, but
casts one curious glance in its direction and
turns away ; — his mission impels him onward.
But there is something in the shadow of
that rock, beside the narrow path, towards
which he gazes with a shudder, urging his
unconscious mule to a quicker pace. It is a
rudely sculptured cross erected upon a small
heap of stones, and it marks the spot where the
corpse of a murdered arriero was not long ago
discovered : there are several other mementos
of the same kind in the vicinity. So frequent
have the wayside murders been in the moun
tain-passes and solitary places of this country,
that such roads are literally lined with crosses;
and on one journey, for a short distance among
the mountains, you may count these melan
choly memorials of crime by hundreds. Our
carrier does well, therefore, to press forward
from such a dangerous neighbourhood.

VIVID CONTRAST OF SCENERY. 0
Behold him, on another occasion, on the
borders of the tierra templada, where the hot
region terminates — near the mountains of
Popocatepetl — where such scenery presents
itself as can scarcely be equalled, for the
strange variety of its features, in any country
ofthe world. Fancy yourself seeking shelter
from the heat in a grove of tropical palm-
trees, everything around redolent of the
warmth of the country, — gorgeous flowers
and luscious fruits, lizards and snakes, and a
plantation of sugar-canes in the distance, —
then turn and look upwards, and a scene as of
the depth of winter will meet your eyes. You
may look in one direction on the dark, dry,
torrid foliage ; and at the same time take in
for a background the hills of Popocatepetl,
covered with pure and lasting snow ! While
the dewdrops can never hang long upon the
trees in the foreground, the sun seems to have
no power to effect a change in the appearance
of those white masses in the distance ! Our
arriero, however, only encourages himself with
the idea that he is one stage nearer to his
journey's end.
And now he has arrived within sight of the
glorious valley of Mexico ; a scene which has

6 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
gladdened and revived many a weary wan
derer's heart. There — between mountains
nine thousand feet above the level of the sea,
and two thousand feet below their summits — is
spread out so magnificent a panorama as it is
almost impossible to describe without seeming
exaggeration. Miles of level land, covered
with luxuriant Indian corn, mellowing and
waving in the mild breeze, entrance the sight,
varied by fields planted with the green, spread
ing aloes, from which great quantities of
pulque and aguardiente are made. Extensive
lakes, glittering like shining bands in the
radiant sunshine ; flowery fields cultivated to
feed the colour- producing cochineal insect;
and noble rocks, and skirts of volcanic growth,
add the charm of variety to the beautiful plain.
Then come large tracts of land dedicated to
the culture of chil6, or Indian pepper, dotted
and interspersed with villages and planta
tions ; the huts of charcoal-burners being in
dicated by the wreaths of light blue smoke
ascending against the shadow of the stately
pine-trees. A group of Indian labourers are
at work on the wide fields; and a party of
muleteers are ascending the hills on our right
hand. The splendid capital itself — with its

VALLEY OF MEXICO. 7
magnificent churches and cathedrals, spacious
squares and well-planned streets, its azoteas and
balconied palaces, pleasant gardens and luxu
rious mansions — is vividly distinct through
the pure, bright atmosphere. The view, far
as we can see into the softening distance, is
bounded by mountains — their rocky forms,
cultivated sides, or snowy peaks, rising one
behind another, till the dazzled eye can follow
them no further. The air around is delight
fully clear and bracing ; and the azure sky
above is exquisitely pure, and sunny, and
cloudless. Now, indeed, the toiling arriero urges for
ward — for the place to which he is bound is
full before him, and soon he will be there.
Onward he struggles — onward ever ! faithful
ever ! — patient and persevering as the quiet
beast before him.
The transmission of goods throughout
Mexico is extremely perilous and uncertain.
Merchants can only travel in companies, well
armed; and in many parts they must be
accompanied by government escorts. Small
cargoes of merchandise are entrusted to the
arrieros, who are remarkably industrious and
trustworthy ; and they too sometimes proceed

8 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
in parties. Cut off from much communication
with the world around them, excepting the
information they gain from a few meagre
newspapers, the respectable inhabitants of
country estates and haciendas generally re
ceive the passing traveller as a welcome guest,
for the sake of the news he may be able to
communicate. Intelligence from the United
States is received in much less time than for
merly; but direct news from Europe only
arrives monthly. The information of the
country newspapers is usually several weeks
old ; and goes the round of all the journals in
turn. The Mexican mails were formerly, for the
most part, carried by Indians on foot ; who, to
gain time, would venture over difficult paths,
through mountain gorges, and on the edge of
precipices, where all other means of transport
were impracticable. As nothing was entrusted
to them but letters, they went unarmed ; and
the facts of the case being well known to the
ladrones, they were allowed to pursue their
journeys without molestation. This system of
postal communication yet prevails in the more
distant and almost impassable portions of the
country.

-oJcvRXjSJRO j

TRUSTINESS OF CARRIERS. 9
The arrieros, as I have said, frequently
travel alone. A figure of wild appearance,
with matted hair, torn pantaloons, and ragged
shirt or blanket — driving a rugged and
quaintly-accoutred mule — is often entrusted
with some of the most valuable articles of
traffic which the country produces. A less
trustworthy person, in appearance, it would
be difficult to imagine ; but as their employ
ment, and even existence, depends on their
reputation for honesty, they are deserving of
every confidence. Their faithfulness, inde
fatigable perseverance, constant care, and self-
denying endurance, are beyond all praise, and
form a remarkable exception to the general
character of the Mexican populace.
One bright summer morning, an arriero set
out from the city of Chihuahua, with an un
usually precious cargo on the back of his mule,
including a small quantity of coin, and several
bars of silver. Considerable precautions had
been taken by his employer ; and as secrecy
and despatch were necessary in the transmis
sion, he commenced his journey privately,
under the impression that his errand and
destination were unknown to his acquaintances
and comrades.

10 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
At the end of the first day, though the road
had been rocky and difficult, his progress was
considerable ; for his spirits were buoyant, his
mule was hardy and active, and the strength of
both was yet unwearied. He stopped in the
evening at a little rancho which was well kno\tai
to him ; it contained but two rooms, and was
the only place where it was possible to obtain
shelter for many miles. Its owner was an old,
solitary Indian, who received him on this occa
sion with unwonted hospitality ; and after par
taking of a hasty meal of chile and frijoles, by
a wood fire upon the ground, in the company
of the host, and making fast the bridle of his
mule to the wall of his own apartment, he
retired to his couch — composed of two skins
and a blanket — to enjoy a night's repose.
After more than an hour of wakefulness, he
was startled by hearing his own name spoken
in subdued tones, by more than one person in
the next room ; where the fire was still burning
brightly ! Applying his eyes to a crevice in the
partition dividing the two apartments, he per
ceived that the adjoining chamber was occupied
by three figures beside the old Indian host; and
overheard them planning the readiest way to
rob and murder him. The unexpected guests

THE ARRIERO IMPRISONED. 11
were leperos, whom he remembered to have
seen in the city of Chihuahua — and they must
have patiently tracked his footsteps at a dis
tance during his day's journey.
The arriero was well armed, it is true ; but
resistance against such fearful odds was per
fectly out of the question. The only door of his
sleeping-place led to the scene of consultation,
and it had been secured on the other side;
window there was none, and the least noise
might be fatal to him : there appeared no
means of escape ; and time pressed — for it was
not likely that the attack of his enemies would
be much longer delayed. With the energy of
coming despair, he cast his eyes round the
room, and to his great joy perceived a slight
opening in the thatch that composed the roof.
Repressing an exclamation that sprang to his
lips, he mounted the slight pile of skins that
had composed his pillow, and nervously thrust
his hand into the cavity ; the thatch yielded
to his touch, for it was a mere mixture of reeds
and rushes. He breathed more freely, for
his escape no longer seemed impossible : but
then there were his mule and his treasure.
Well ! — first securing his own safety, he
would put a plan in execution, which hastily

12 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
crossed his mind, for the recovery of his bag
gage. With the utmost caution, he removed the
accumulation of soft and decayed matter from
the lower part of the roof; then after examin
ing his weapons, he noiselessly sprang upwards
with all his strength, gained the top of the
mud and adobe" wall, and dropped down on the
outside. Taking advantage of the darkness,
he then carefully proceeded by the side of the
rocks, to a spot with which he was well ac
quainted — where several paths met, at some
distance on the right of the inhospitable hut.
Here he paused, and taking a pistol from his
belt, fired it without more ado into the air ;
trusting to attract the attention of his as
sailants, and draw them from the hut. Nor
was he mistaken in his calculation ; for ere he
had time to regain the rancho by a circuitous
route, he had the satisfaction of seeing what
he believed to be the whole party scouring the
several paths in the distance, to ascertain the
cause of such an unlooked-for disturbance of
their plans.
On entering the hut, however, he found that
the old Indian had been left behind to guard
the supposed prisoner and his property ; but

A NIGHT ESCAPE. 13
this was only a momentary obstruction to his
progress. With the speed of lightning he
threw himself upon the cowering wretch ; and
placing one hand on his mouth to stifle his out
cries, plunged his cuchillo twice up to the hilt
in his back, between the shoulders. Then cast
ing a heap of mats upon the fire to extinguish
it, that the ruffians might not have the advan
tage of its light to guide them back, he unloosed
his trusty mule from the wall ; and emerging
from the hut, drove the animal before him by
a track which he had every reason to believe
was but little known.
His superior knowledge of the country
enabled him, even in the darkness, to make
good way from the scene of his past peril ; and
he used every exertion to place as great a dis
tance as possible between his outwitted enemies
and himself. On he sped beside his patient
mule, over the mountain-paths, in the dead of
night ; the man profiting in no slight degree
by the fine instinct of the animal, who seemed
to understand the emergency, and to strain
every limb for the preservation of his master.
But even surefooted mules have occasionally
been known to take a false step, and our
arriero's beast stumbled over a projecting rock,

14 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
and fell down a shallow precipice, carrying his
master with him. Though the declivity was
slight, the fall was yet so heavy that both
arriero and mule lay at the bottom stunned
and insensible for hours. As it chanced, how
ever, this fall proved the means of their pre
servation : two of their ruthless and deter
mined enemies had been upon their track,
having heard the steps of the mule from a dis
tance, and but for this accident the arriero
would have been overtaken.
But their pursuers passed on in the dark
ness; and returned ere long, under the
impression that they had been deceived.
The light of morning discovered the arriero
and his mule waking and stretching them
selves — somewhat bruised, but with no bones
broken. Grateful for his late escape, our muleteer
pressed on with fresh vigour — long and toil
some though the stages were — till he arrived
in the neighbourhood of the Mexican moun
tains; then he began to calculate the time
when he might expect to arrive at his wished-
for destination in the capital.
For a considerable distance that mountain-
path abounds in intricate windings, which

SUMMONS FROM LADRONES. 15
render it impossible for the wayfarer to per
ceive the road very far, either before or behind
him. Glancing backwards over his shoulder
at one of these points, our arriero perceived a
whole herd of wild and heavily armed men
hastily approaching. A moment's considera
tion convinced him that these were ladrones ;
and their quick movements and threatening
gestures sufficiently testified their hostile in
tention toward himself. On they came with
cries and imprecations; calling upon him
to stop if he had no wish to find himself
at the bottom of the nearest precipice, with
a dozen rifle-balls lodged underneath his
jerkin. The arriero's ingenuity and presence of mind
here again served him in good stead. Instead
of flying from them, or betraying the least
fear on their approach, he turned towards the
band with a placid countenance, and held up
his hands to intimate his satisfaction. He
then gave them to understand that he had
been anxiously awaiting the arrival of the
troop, and would be gratified to share with
them the treasures in his possession ; that he
admired the wild life of the freebooters, and

16 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
wished of all things to be admitted into the
band. The bait was swallowed with avidity; the
arriero was joyfully accepted as a comrade,
and his treasure was hailed as an acquisition
to their stores. It was decided, after an ani
mated debate, that the money — being portable,
should be placed in the captain's care, for the
instant requirements of the troop ; but that
the bars of silver — being heavy, should remain
upon the back of the mule until next day,
when they would make arrangements for ex
changing them for coin. Then the whole com
pany, elated with the success of their enter
prise, proceeded with their new comrade to
a secret resort among the mountains, where
they passed a night of boisterous carousing:
singing, swearing, and quarrelling, as is
usual in such scenes of drunkenness and de
bauchery. Every member of the band, excepting our
brave arriero, fell at length into a state of
sodden slumber; he had anticipated such a
result, and hastened to take advantage of it :
stealthily relieving the captain of the money
he had appropriated, he quickly led away his

SAFE ARRIVAL. 17
trusty and still laden mule from the inner
cave; and before the dawn of day, was far
beyond pursuit. The arriero, ultimately over
coming all difficulties and temptations, landed
his precious cargo in safety at its antici
pated resting-place.

VOL. II.

18 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

CHAPTER XXIII.
A FERIA, OR FAIR.
Their characteristics in different districts. — Number of
annual fairs. — Chinampas, or floating gardens. — Mexican
pedlars. — Sale by measurement. — Juggler and serpent
charmer. — Dancing girls. — Perambulating restaura
teurs. — Vendors of stolen goods.' — Temporary theatres.
— Padres and lookers-on. — Pronunciamientos. — An in
surrection.
The characteristics of fairs differ in the
various parts of Mexico where they are held;
but all partake of the nature of trading, as
well as of festive gatherings. In the capital
and in its neighbourhood they are more dis
tinguished for luxuries, and the sale of articles
belonging to a somewhat advanced stage of
civilization, than are most of the others. At
Vera Cruz a feria is remembered as a season
of wild excess and debauchery among the
sailors and people at the port, by a greater ]
profusion of odoriferous articles of clothing in '

CHARACTERISTICS OF FAIRS. J9
the streets, and by the increased prevalence of
the malaria fever consequent upon the whole.
In the mining districts there are fewer fruits,
flowers, and vegetable products to be seen,
and an infinitely greater display of strong
clothing for labourers — coarse blankets, thick
leathern pantaloons, and occasionally immense
leathern boots, and other mining accoutre
ments. In the cold parts of the country
(tierras frias), a feria is, in a far greater de
gree, an affair for in-doors ; exhibitions in the
market-places are rather scanty, and there is a
higher relish, if possible, for aguardiente, chile"
pepper, and other warm and spicy prepara
tions. While in the tierras calientes, or hot
regions, whole floating gardens of resplendent
flowers and luscious fruits — fine grapes, rich
bananas, and delicious tunas (a superior kind of
pear) ; oranges, pineapples, peaches, and water
melons ; granaditas (large sweet gooseberries),
apricots, plums, and cherimoyas (a splendid
fruit resembling a custard in flavour), together
with cooling drinks and sweet mixtures, are
abundantly supplied and highly appreciated,
as the majority of them well deserve to be.
However different the proceedings at these
festive seasons may be in the abstract, their

20 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
principal features are still much the same
everywhere : there is always a similar influx
of petty merchants and retailers to the mar
kets and great thoroughfares ; the same re
course to dancing and drinking pulque and
ardent spirits ; and the same eager abandon-*-
ment to the absorbing and universal habit of
gaming. There are about twelve or fourteen
annual fairs held in the chief towns and cities-
of the republic; they are all well attended;
and the traffic of each continues for about a
week or ten days. For an average specimen
of one of these celebrations, I will select one
of the ferias in the capital.
Directly after sunrise, the canals of Chalco
and Istacalo presented a gay and animated
spectacle : throngs of Indians in boats de
scending one after the other, with brilliant car
goes of flowers, fruits, and provisions, for sale
in the market-places and upon the pavements
during the day. A great portion of these
flowers and vegetables are grown upon the
chinampas or floating gardens— such as we
hear of in descriptions of the rivers and canals
in China. These constructions are of two
kinds, the greater number are attached to the
shore, but a few are left to be driven to and

FLOATING GARDENS. 21
fro at the mercy of the winds. The idea of
these gardens may have been derived from
masses of flowery and grassy earth carried
away from their banks; probably rafts were
first formed of soil and reeds intertwining,
among which were planted bulbs and roots.
These chinampas are guarded by Indians who
live in huts in their neighbourhood, and who
tow or push them from one place to another by
means of long poles. Floating islands of a
somewhat similar formation have been disco
vered in different parts of the world — in Quito
and in Italy, as well as in the Celestial
Empire. The pedlars who exhibit their wares for sale
beneath the arches have several modes of dis
posing of their articles, which strike a stranger
as especially peculiar. The professed retail-
dealers are constantly on the look-out for a fair
offer to enable them to sell their whole stock
at once. Some among these traders have no
other notion of measurement or estimation for
their goods, than by the vara, or yard— about
thirty-three inches : and the scenes occasionally
consequent upon dealing out some of their
merchandise in this way, are exceedingly ludi
crous. They have ribbons and tapes, and

22 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
cottons — printed, bleached, twilled, brown,
striped and checked; plain and highly- wrought
ponchos and blankets; figured rebosos in cotton
and silk— the silk ones in this country being
the least valuable; together with trinkets,
hats, mirrors, pantaloons, and cutlery. If
you purchase a quantity of writing-paper, it
will most likely be measured by the vara, and
the probabilities are, that you will have a dis
pute about the manner of doing it — whe
ther by the ream, the quire, or the sheet,
and whether the paper should be taken hori
zontally or perpendicularly ! If you bargain
for a brace of pocket-knives, you will fall out
as to whether they shall be estimated shut or
open ; if you desire a few rolls of cotton, you
know not whether it will be retailed to you
folded or unfolded; and if you select an
upright mirror, it is impossible to say whe
ther the price to be paid for it will be ad
judged by the number of varas, or inches^ in its
height or breadth !
The stock in trade of the juggler or con
juror, round the corner, is rather startling;
for in addition to his sword-swallowing and
fire-scattering apparatus, he has a whole
budget of minor accessories — chains, boxes,

THE JUGGLER. 23
ropes, knives, wands, and bands; and also
a choice collection of beautiful birds and
snakes. Occupying a prominent position
among the former — at the head of the parrots
and parroquets— is a specimen of the cele
brated toto, a bird but little larger than a
thrush, with wings of the most resplendent
green. This little creature, as is well known,
is held in superstitious veneration by the
Indians, and its destruction was formerly
punishable by death among them; but the
individual who could capture it and pluck a
few feathers from its tail, before setting it
again at liberty, was judged fortunate. The
serpents in the other cage are for the most
part of great length, and most inviting appear
ance; some shine in green and gold; others
appear covered with brilliant pearly scales;
while the rest are of a magnificent crimson
colour, streaked with black and white. Many
of them have been originally of a dangerous
character, but their poisonous fangs have been
carefully removed, and their proprietor plays
all manner of tricks with them with impunity.
A gaping crowd have gathered around, who
regard him wonderingly as his eyes appear
to roll in mortal anguish, when he stabs

24 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
himself with a double-jointed knife, or while
his flesh creeps and recoils in counterfeit
horror from the playful nibblings and twin-
inp; embraces of his harmless friends the ser-
pents. In front of a gaming-house, also, the per
formances of Indian dancing girls attract
considerable attention. Some of them are but
very scantily draped ; but this does not appear
at all to offend the numerous bystanders.
These girls have been familiar with seasons of
want and misery, alternated with scenes of
glitter and dissipation, from their infancy.
The history of one of them would be pitiable
in the extreme. Their joyous laughter and
smiling grimaces are evidently assumed: one
of them glances with ardently longing eyes
towards the dish of frijoles and chile which
has just been borne past ; the voice of another
seems almost to have failed her from exces
sive weakness ; and a third has been compelled
to support herself against a portion of the
door, from exhaustion, in the midst of an
unusually brilliant feat. But they laugh and
sing, and dance and caper — often coarsely^
jingling their tambourines and triangles ; and
the multitudes around care for nothing else,

DANCING GIRLS AND RESTAURATEUR. 25
nor once think of the misery and degradation
of the wretched performers.
A woman carrying the furniture of half an
eating-house about with her attracts numerous
customers, who choose between maize and tor
tilla-cakes, cups of chocolate and pulque,
platters of wild fowl and turkey, eggs,
valdivias, and ollas. But the boys of the
neighbourhood beset her like flies : — one urchin
has just snatched a handful of maize for which
he has no intention of paying ; and his comrade,
who has just run away, has overturned a large
jar of pulque ! She cannot follow them, for
her whole stock of provisions would vanish the
while; but she will be avenged by loud out
cries and vociferations : already has she dis
covered their last movements ; and a startling
torrent of exclamations and invectives electri
fies the throng.
Yonder are several groups of ladrones sell
ing their stolen goods, at a rate remarkably
under the usual prices — but it is all gain to
them. You may know them by their fierce
and reckless appearance, and by their down
cast and discontented eyes. It cannot be
unknown to the police officers and superin
tendents who guard the fair, that these articles

20 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
must have been procured by plunder ; yet the
knavery is either winked at or deemed un
worthy of notice. The eager and designing
looks they cast upon the arriero, who is unload
ing a large bale of merchandise on the right,
and the sympathetic glances they interchange"
with each other from time to time, sufficiently
shew their appetite for plunder. They have
a great variety of portable and saleable goods,
and meet with numerous and ready purchasers.
The assortment of goods belonging to the
glass, china, and earthenware merchant, proves
to be rather curious on examination. There
are some stylish-looking wine-glasses, vases,
and decanters— but when you take them up
and hold them to the light, you see that every
one is chipped as well as cut ; and the few china
ornaments of attractive shapes and colours
are, without exception, either cracked or
flawed internally. As for other more com
mon crockery, cups and plates and water-
jugs— not one of the whole collection will hold
water. The fellow purchased them as refuse,
and vends them as perfect ; yet if you state an
objection to his wares he scowls upon you
most fearfully, and his hand is upon his knife
in a moment.

CHEATING VENDORS AND KNAVISH BUYERS. 27
A lepero at no great distance is pretending
to purchase a cuchillo, or knife, from a dealer
in such articles. See how he turns it over,
weighs it on his hand, measures it with his
fingers, breathes upon it, and tries its strength.
He must surely want it for some particular
purpose; perhaps he is about to meet a worthy
comrade in a hostile encounter, and would
like to have the advantage in his weapon. But
while the rascal appears to be deliberating
about the knife, he is in reality robbing a pan
nier on the shoulders of an ass behind him,
and stealthily conveying his plunder beneath
the folds of his serape" ; while the proprietor
of the ass and panniers, is bargaining for
the sale of his fast-decreasing stock — ass and
panniers included.
The theatres, at these times, are largely
attended ; not merely those of the better sort,
where plays of European origin are performed,
but others, differing in their pretensions ; from
the red, blue, and green painted edifice that
graces an obscure street, to the temporary
Bheds that are constructed in a hasty manner
behind houses and in court-yards especially
for the occasion. The one behind us is of the
latter kind. The players strut affectedly upon

28 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
the narrow boarding in front of the establish
ment, the tragic heroes scowling and looking
down upon their comrades of the comic kind ;
and the mirth-moving varlets in return playing
off their jests and raising the laugh against
them : — they all roar, expostulate, and swear,
and dance in concert ; while a man in an ex
cessively broad-brimmed sombrero, long dag
ger, prodigious boots, fierce mustachios, and
large cane, thunders forth the programme of
the performances ! " If the Blessed Virgin be
willing, the next drama to be set forth will be
one of horrifying interest, entitled, l The Lady
of Crime, or the Cardinal Sins' ; and the suc
ceeding entertainment will consist of a highly
celebrated farce, much distinguished as ' The
Spanish Barber, or the Courtships of a
Week.' " The comedy is not half so rich as
may be witnessed by waiting on the dispenser
of indulgences in the huge building hard by ;
if you are inclined to view the matter in a
humorous light ; and as to the tragedy, you
have only to let your mind recur to the scenes
that have been formerly enacted in the same
apartment. Within the numerous balconies in front of
the houses opposite, under the brilliantly-

ACTORS AND SPECTATORS. 29
coloured awnings, there are groups of Mexi
can ladies, of all ages, their handsome fea
tures and beaming eyes intent upon the
oddities of the. scene before them. The elder
ladies are most dazzling in point of dress, in
their magnificently embroidered, flowered, and
laced mantillas, rebosos of all the colours of
the rainbow, jewelled zones, gold bracelets, and
resplendent necklaces.
On the azotea, or flat roof, of a commo
dious mansion, are grouped the noble owner
and his family, who have come to gaze at the
festivities from a secure distance. The lady's
father — an aged man — reclines on an easy
couch, whence he can enjoy a view of the
motley throngs and rich sunshine ; the lady
herself is in attendance upon him, the children
are in raptures with the scene, and their father
is making himself agreeable to all. What a
happy family party it appears to be ! But the
father must be careful of those two youngest
children, or in their ecstacies of delight, they
will precipitate themselves over the parapet,
and fall among the busy crowds below.
These Mexican feriashave occasionally been
fiercely interrupted; and have sometimes be
come scenes of the most unexpected and abo-

30 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
minable outrage. An instance of this kind*
consequent upon the declaration of a pronun-^
ciamiento in a certain city of the second class,
came to my knowledge.
Pronunciamientos are by no means of unfre-
quent occurrence. When any officer or general
— or indeed any person in this disturbed coun
try — thinks he has induced a faction of the
people to act under him in opposition to the
existing government, he issues a declaration of
dissent and grievances addressed to his fol
lowers and to the country at large ; and his
partisans array themselves immediately under
his command. This demonstration of opinion
is called a pronunciamiento. The next step —
and these proceedings have often been taken
together — is to draw up a gecto, or plan of
future operations. Then follow war, blood
shed, and plunder, and all the horrors of civil
conflict, until one of the contending parties is
defeated and subdued; then the vanquished
dispronounce, and stipulate for as merciful
treatment as can possibly be afforded them ;
while the victors arrange a triumphal pro
cession and organize a demonstrative glorifi
cation. These pronunciamientos have been very

A PRONUNCIAMIENTO. 31
popular within the last thirty years; there
have been many factions of all kinds, some of
which have borne British appellations — as the
centralists, termed Ecossais, or Scotch, and the
federalists, called Yorkinos, or Yorkists ; and
tbe number of sanguinary insurrections which
have disgraced the country — both before and
after the accession of Santa Anna — is
fearful. On the occasion to which I allude, the town
fair was brilliant, and numerously attended both
by merchants and purchasers; the traffic was
at its height, pleasure parties thronged the
streets, music and dancing echoed from the
pavements, the balconies and azoteas were
alive with visitors, gamblers were crowding
to their resorts, the sun shone gaily upon the
scene, and all was happiness and security.
Only one circumstance appeared singular to
the thinking portion of the community — a
very small one — and this was, that there was
not a priest to be seen in any of the streets,
while everything was unusually silent in and
around the churches. Presently, however, a
troop of soldiers under an excited leader,
accompanied by a host of tattered and hastily
armed depredators entered the town ; march-

32 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
ing through the principal thoroughfares to the
chief square, and bringing with them, in their
persons, their own pronunciamiento.
The insurrection was wholly unexpected:
so well had the conspiracy been kept, that all
ranks of the people were taken by surprise, as
the mob took possession of some of the prin
cipal buildings, and plundered houses in their
progress. Lgperos and vagrants in general
joined the ranks ofthe insurgents; and gentle
men whose appearance promised better things,
fled precipitately before the throng. Shrieks
and cries proceeded from every quarter : women
in the crowd were thrown down and trampled
upon : market people were either dispersed
among their goods, or pressed hastily on in re
treat. Stores, sheds, and shops were plundered;
stalls and panniers of glass and china, eggs and
provisions, silks and cottons, arms and fancy
articles, were ransacked or broken to pieces :
houses were stormed, and their ornaments
destroyed ; those belonging to the obnoxious
being set on fire. Pillage, dismay, and con
fusion, reigned paramount in the place where
pleasure and business had so lately presided.
A few gentlemen, however, assisted by some
respectable merchants and storekeepers, and

AN INSURRECTION. 33
joined by a band of pedlars and townspeople,
made a brave and determined stand ; and the
progress of the invading rioters was momen
tarily checked. Had the numbers of the small
resisting party been but augmented by the
panic-stricken inhabitants, all might yet, in a
great degree, have been spared. But as it
was, their bold opposition proved unavailing-:
the gentlemen at its head were speedily cut to
pieces ; the police officers and storekeepers fled
from the conflict ; and many of the poor
pedlars and market people who had attempted
to defend themselves and their position, were
slaughtered beside their merchandise.
This short-lived insurrection, nevertheless,
was quelled in a most summary manner by
General Santa Anna ; and the ostensible lead
ing promulgators ofthe pronunciamiento were
instantly executed by his command.

VOL. II.

34 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

CHAPTER XXIV.

SEA-PORTS.

Unhealthiness of Mexican ports. — Country round Vera
Cruz. — Natural productions. — Harbour of Vera Cruz.
— St. Juan de Ulloa. — Rainy season. — City of Vera
Cruz. — Commerce of the port-harbour of Tampico. —
Surrounding country. — Matamoras. — Acapulco. — San
Bias. — Mazatlan. — Port dues and other charges. —
Custom-house officers. — Amusing incident.
The ports of Mexico, as a whole, are low and
unhealthy in situation, and but indifferently
adapted to their uses. Few persons but those
well inured to the climate, whose business or
connections imperatively demand their pre
sence, will remain in them on any terms. So
fatal to human life are the hot, marshy breezes
constantly afloat in their neighbourhood, that
the most accustomed inhabitants are often
stricken with fever, followed by speedy death ;
and all who have the means in their power are
happy to take refuge, during the hot season,
in the more favoured districts at a distance

COUNTRY ROUND VERA CRUZ. 35
above them — where the burning sunshine is
tempered by the clear air of the hills, and the
atmosphere is uncharged by the poisonous
particles generated in the vapours of the
tropics. Some portions of the country round Vera
Cruz — ascending as they do with the most
singular varieties of aspect to the table-land
of Perote — are exceedingly rich in vegetable
growth and forest trees. Cotton of the finest
quality is grown on numerous flat plains ;
sarsaparilla-root springs up in the declivities
of the rocks and mountains ; and mezquite
trees, with their glutinous pods, may be dis
covered in the verdant hollows. The pimento-
myrtle grows in rich profusion in the forests ;
cocoa-nut trees are to be found on the open
lands ; and tobacco is cultivated in considerable
quantities in the southern valleys. The odo
riferous vanilla clings to the roots of woodland
trees; and the jalapse-convolvulus plants rear
their lovely heads in the neighbourhood of
some of the villages. The sugar-cane grows
in perfection on numerous and highly produc
tive plantations. The scenery of the country
in different districts, moreover, is so completely
varied, that a traveller may pass from the

36 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
heated shores of the Gulf of Mexico, to moun
tains whose tops are covered with snow, within
the short space of four-and-twenty hours.
Vera Cruz, in itself, affords but insufficient
harbourage to vessels ; nevertheless, its port is
the most used of any belonging to the republic.
It is more like some point in a channel, where
it is just possible for ships to remain on emer
gency, than a well-appointed harbour; and the
anchorage is insecure and uncertain. Northern
winds (los nortes) frequently expend their
violence upon it for days ; driving the vessels
ashore, and damaging the protecting mole of
the port. The place is well fortified. The
Island of Sacrificios, beside which foreign
ships of war anchor, is three miles away, and
they can only pass through a very narrow
channel, commanded by the guns of the fort.
The point of land opposite the mole of Vera
Cruz (between which projections merchant
ships only can anchor, the passage being not
more than seven hundred yards wide) is the
island of St. Juan de Ulloa, and it is almost
entirely taken up by a huge fortress. The
Spaniards formerly considered this fortifica
tion impregnable, and although a portion of it
was blown up by the French in 1839, it still

VERA CRUZ. 37
retains its strength, and cost the Americans a
vast amount of trouble in the recent war. On
the north-west point of the land, at a consider
able elevation, a brilliant and commanding
revolving light is stationed, — often serving to
remind a stranger from Europe of similar
well-remembered beacons on his native coasts.
The rainy season here commences in June,
and frequently continues to the end of Sep
tember. The heat prevailing at this period,
and for some time before and after, is in
sufferable, and awfully pernicious : nor is this
the worst ; there are a number of large swamps
in the neighbourhood of the city, and the
suffocating vapours arising from them are even
more productive of fever than the heat.
The present city of Vera Cruz does not
occupy the same site as the town founded by
the first Spanish discoverers ; the latter being
about six miles distant. The houses of Vera
Cruz are lofty and tolerably cleanly; and
there are many handsome buildings. The
streets are spacious, and, considering the
country, are maintained in something re
sembling a good condition. There is no lack
of prosperous inhabitants; the store-keepers
and others contriving to realize a huge profit

88 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
on their dealings— and many of their habitations
are romantic and beautiful. This, however, is
only one side of the picture : the neighbourhood
immediately adjoining the south side is most
forlorn and miserable. Houses and churches
are lying in ruins ; weeds and parasite plants
have overgrown what once were pleasant
terraces; and faded and shrunken foliage
droops neglectfully over the scene. Fields
that ought to be cultivated are covered with
rubbish or untended aloe plants; stagnant
pools have formed themselves in the various
hollows ; and tribes of large and bloated insects
buzz about your head in the air. It is, all
things considered, one of the most unenviable
spots in all Mexico to remain in, even for a
short time — to say nothing of living there.
The commerce of the port in some articles is
considerable. Great quantities of the scented
vanilla are transported thence; and half a
million of arrobas of sugar (an arroba is
25 lbs.) have passed the harbour in one year.
Almost all European merchandise enters the
country by Vera Cruz or Tampico. A stage
coach, or diligence, runs occasionally from this
city to the capital ; but it is often more unsafe
to travel in it than with a caravan, so fre-

TAMPICO— MATAMORAS. 39
quently is it stopped and plundered by bands
of ladrones.
The harbour of Tampico is nearly as un
healthy as that of Vera Cruz, and more in
commodious. There is a bar at the entrance
of Boca del Bio, and another at Brazo de
Santiago. It is most suitable for brigs and
comparatively small vessels, though some of
the rivers which flow into it are navigable.
The country round Tampico is very fresh and
inviting, immediately after the rainy season.
There are a number of most picturesque ha
ciendas (farm-houses) at a little distance over
the mountains. The road, as you proceed,
becomes exceedingly rocky and precipitous ;
and in some districts the atmosphere is so arid,
that animal matter has a tendency to shrink
and dry on exposure to it. Nearer the port,
however, numerous forests of fine oak trees are
to be found; and groves of iron-wood and
fustic meet the eye in every direction.
The port of Matamoras is no less than forty
miles distant from the town, which contains
the custom-house. There are two harbours,
one formed by the Rio Bravo del Norte, called
Brazo de Santiago, and the other, Boca del
Rio : the last-named being nine miles south of

40 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
the former. Both are obstructed by bars,
which are impassable during a strong gale.
The water of the Brazo is generally about ten
feet over the bar; and that of Boea del Rio
about six feet. As vessels cannot come up
the river to the town, in one harbour they
unload by means of lighters ; and in the other
they land their goods on the river banks.
The tide has but little fluctuation. The an
chorage is tolerable ; but there is little security
for ships during the fierce winds of August
and September. There is no lighthouse ; and
the pilots of vessels judge of their proximity to
the port by the discoloration of the water
— a very dangerous and uncertain token during
the hours of darkness.
Acapulco is one of the chief Mexican ports
on the Pacific. It is so secure and spacious
that five hundred ships can lie at anchor
within it readily. The larger portion of the
town is on the sea-shore, being shut in by lofty
hills on almost every side: no wholesome
breezes from the interior therefore can approach
it, and it is in consequence excessively hot and
unhealthy. The noxious vapours from the
south-east brood perpetually over the town
and port, so that at no period has it been a

ACAPULCO— MAZATLAN. 41
well-inhabited district. The land also is ex
ceedingly unproductive, insomuch that the few
residents are indebted to inland natives for
their meanest articles of consumption. It is
said that a fair was formerly held here, on the
arrival of certain vessels from China ; but this
is now abolished. Its chief commercial inter
course, at this time, is with Manilla. There is
an island on the south coast, with canals on
either side many fathoms deep, which form the
two mouths of the harbour. The castle and
fort of San Diego, mounted with artillery,
is situated on a promontory jutting far
out upon the sea, within the distance of a
musket-shot. San Bias and Mazatlan are the remaining
principal harbours ; and the accommodation at
both is of a very inferior description. Ma
zatlan is the chief calling-point on voyages
from China and the Sandwich Islands to
Europe and America. It is further distin
guished by two different characteristics ; first,
that its coasts abound with particularly
fine oysters and shell-fish, which the na
tives roast and pickle ; and secondly, that
its inhabitants, though their number is only
five thousand, are composed of an unaccount-

42 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
ably strange medley of different races and
colours. The republic of Mexico imposes more enor
mous dues and charges upon commerce and
shipping than any country in the world.
Pilotage-money is exacted from foreign
shipping, whether the vessel needs or takes up
a pilot, or not.
Ship-papers are immediately handed, on
arrival, to a custom-house officer, who gives
the captain an acknowledgment for them.
The charge for ballast (which is a monopoly
in the hands of barge proprietors) is shamefully
exorbitant, and presses very heavily on ship
owners and others. No foreign ship is allowed
to supply itself with ballast by means of its
own boats, on any account.
Assistance given to vessels in distress is
too frequently charged for at an enormous
rate; and on the west coast of Mexico
especially, accidents are often occurring from
the scarcity, or total want, of either light
houses, buoys, or moorings. As much as from
seventy-five to a hundred pounds, English
money, is frequently paid by a foreign vessel
for the three items of pilotage, bill of health,
and tonnage duty.

CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFICERS. 43
The custom-house officers in Mexico are
quite as insolent as such officials usually are in
other countries; with the addition that they
are far more open to bribery and corruption,
and are not even then to be depended on by
their employers.
An amusing custom-house incident was
once related to me, as having happened during
the occupation of the country by the Spaniards,
many years ago.
A party of Spanish merchants were on
their way from the city of Mexico to Vera
Cruz, with the intention of embarking at that
port on a return voyage to Europe. They
had been successful in their commercial trans
actions, and were journeying to the eastward
much richer men than, many months before,
they had entered the country by the same
route. Pleasant images of their cherished
Spain, and the friends they had there left
behind, thronged upon their minds ; and it is
not strange, as they proceeded in anticipation
of soon returning thither, that lively exclama
tions and cheery jests — such dignified humour
as a Spaniard may be supposed to countenance
on joyous occasions — should have been ex
changed among them. Animated conversation

44 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
and hopeful expectation, therefore, quickened
their eager footsteps, and kept time with the tink
ling of their mules' bells as they hastened on.
There was one man of the troop, however^
a certain Don Surillo — who appeared to take
but little interest in the self-satisfied demon
strations of his comrades ; in fact, he seemed to
regard the company generally with something
like contempt. As he happened to be a
paunchy, mean-looking personage, this conduct
produced some astonishment in the minds of
his fellow-travellers. They could not make it
out at all ! That this man should affect to be
so reserved and haughty, when they were
evidently disposed to unbend a little to each
other — it was a perfect mystery! However,
as he persevered in his demeanour, they
became inclined to regard him — in spite of his
appearance — as a superior kind of person,
gifted with an unusually strong mind and
great intelligence. Nevertheless, two or three
members of the party determined to keep their
eye upon him, and paid him the utmost atten
tion accordingly. They listened attentively
for any tokens of conversation on his part ;
watching him keenly for any signs of abating
rigour in his eye or the corners of his mouth

A MYSTERIOUS SPANIARD. 45
— in vain. They questioned him of his inten
tions and destination — nothing could they
learn : of his friends and kindred — there was
no reply. The Spaniards are universally a
grave people ; but this man was awfully grave :
his aspect was heavy and portentous, as
though the cares of nothing less than an
empire weighed upon his brow.
There was one circumstance about this
strong-minded personage, however, that they
could not avoid noticing, for it was repeated
on all occasions. Wherever they happened to
halt on their journey — whether it was at a
painted hotel or a roadside hut, a despicable
rancho or a common fonda — he invariably
ordered, for his own refreshment, turkey —
always turkey. It was amusing to note the
gusto and luscious longing with which the
grave man smacked his lips over his favourite
bird — to see how he yearned towards his one
weakness, on all occasions, and in the most
difficult circumstances, was ludicrous in the
extreme. They had at last discovered the key
note of his character — the secret spring which
animated him. It was turkey! Turkey
roasted, turkey stewed, turkey boiled ; — he
lived only for turkey! Its yielding fibres

46 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
and succulent juices possessed him as with
one idea.
The grave man had some singularly shaped
packages, too, in his possession, beside his
complement of baggage ; packages which had
caused considerable speculation among his
companions. They were not round, neither
were they oval, nor were they quite square ;
but they were made of wicker-work, externally
at least, and they had a slight canvass
covering. What could they contain? Not
merchandize or gold — they were too light;
not provisions — for he never opened them ;
not wine — for they were not secure ; not
clothing- — for his apparel was in a box by
itself : yet he strapped them to the back of a
mule with great care. At length, one of the
most curious of his fellow-travellers took
advantage of his absence at a meal, to raise the
canvass covering of one of the packages ;
he uplifted the lid, with some trouble, and
looked within. There was nothing. He
lifted up the cover of the other, raised the
lid, and peeped into that. After all his con
jectures and anticipations, he was grieved
to find that both the bulky hampers contained
— nothing.

PASSING THE CUSTOM-HOUSE. 47
On the following morning they reached
Vera Cruz in safety ; and as every member of
the party was anxious to take ship imme
diately — as well to avoid the risk of remaining
on that feverish coast as to return to Europe
forthwith — they agreed, if possible, to sail all
together, in a Spanish vessel then lying in the
harbour. The grave man was one of the
number, and it was remarked, as the time for
embarkation approached, that he was un
usually active and business-like in making his
preparations. The day at last arrived, when the company
of merchants were to pass the' custom-house
with their goods; every man was there with
his permit, his bales, his trunks, and his boxesj
not excepting Don Surillo himself. The
officers, attended by other officials with lances
and swords, overhauled the bales and tho
roughly ransacked the boxes. The report was
made ; all was right : there was nothing-
contraband. They were free of the port, after
paying certain duties ; and might take pos
session of their berths in the ship imme
diately. Suddenly it was discovered that the grave
Don has absented himself, though his goods

48 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
have been examined too. Mysterious man !
Presently he appears, carrying the mysterious
packages in his hand; and advancing cour
teously to the chief officer, he whispers some
thing in his ear. The official, however, evidently
mistrusts him, and disregards his representa
tions. The Don persists in urging his request,
and endeavours to soothe the suspicions of the
officer by the most earnest appeals and
solemn assurances. His comrades are only
able to hear these words of the colloquy, — " I
wish my friends to know nothing about it."
Believing he had gained his point, he glides
past the official and his satellites, and blandly
attempts to make good his exit, packages in
hand. But the officer arrests his progress
with a loud " Ave Maria ! Stop that man ! "
an attendant soldier rushes quickly after him ;
and by way of effectually preventing his fur
ther progress, buries the sharp end of his long
lance in the middle of one of the mysterious
hampers. This is no sooner done, than the most
dismal screams and cries issue from be
neath the wicker-work, interspersed with
groans and chuckles! The soldier, horror-
stricken, in vain endeavours to draw out

THE MYSTERY SOLVED. 49
his lance from the struggling mass. The sol
dier pulls and swears, the grave man raves
and tugs at the soldier's arm, the spectators
are all astonishment, and the officer darts
wildly to the rescue. Meantime, the place
resounds with horrid screams, short breathings^
and hoarse chuckles.
" Dios Mario ! Pablo ! I will not have
them meddled with !" exclaims Don Surillo.
"I insist on examining these hampers,''
replies the officer.
The hampers are examined accordingly;
and on opening the wicker-work he straight
way produces — the bleeding body of a newly-
killed turkey, spitted as neatly on the end
of the lance as if it had been before a
fire ! Then he draws out another turkey —
alive, but pierced through the wing ; a third
takes the opportunity of leaping forth, though
with hobbling gait, and shelters itself behind
the booted feet of the soldiers ; while a fourth
is forcibly kept down by the officer, in its
attempts to force its passage through the
wicker-work to the light of day !
No words can adequately describe the rage
and indignation of the grave man at this ex
hibition ; for it was touching him upon a tender
VOL. II. E

50 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
point. The gaping astonishment of the soldier
on perceiving the novel application of his
weapon, the struggles of the chief official to
preserve his dignity, and the unrestrained
laughter of the merchants and bystanders,
combined to make the whole scene irresistibly
ludicrous. The soldiers at the custom-house made an
excellent dinner that day on the spitted turkeys.
As to Don Surillo, though he recovered the
greater part of his sea-going treasures, he
never would forgive the people at the port, nor
his friends, for their enjoyment of the affair.
Yet during the voyage often did he console
himself with his favourite dish; still did the
unctuous moisture trickle from his lips in its
presence ; still the burden of his contempla
tions was turkey ever — always turkey.

LAKES AND ROADS OF MEXICO. 51

CHAPTER XXV.
CITIES AND PROVINCES.
Valley of Mexico. — Lakes. — Principal Roads. — Old City
of Tenochtitlan. — New City. — City of Mexico. — Puebla-
— Xalapa. — Perote. — Gueretaro. — Guanajuato. — Zaca
tecas. — Durango. — Santa Fe. — Caneles. — Tamazula. —
Cuernavoca. — Cuautla. — Yucatan. — Tabasco. — Chiapa.
— Vera Paz.
The Valley of Mexico, or Tenochtitlan, is of
oval form, and is situated in the centre of the
cordillera of Anahuac, on the ridge of the
basaltic and porphyritical mountains rising
from the south-south-east to the north-north
west. It has five lakes — those of Tezcuco
(near which lies the city of Mexico), Chalco,
Xochimilco, Zampango, and Xaltocan. Tez
cuco, one of the two great lakes, being of salt
water. Six principal roads cross the mountains
which enclose this valley — the old road of
La Puebla, by the Llanos de Apan and San
Bonaventura; that of Pachuco by the Cerro

52 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
Ventoso, to the mines of del Monte, through
scenes of beautiful vegetation; the way of
Toluca, by Lerma and Tianguillo— a fine
artificial causeway partly raised on arches;
that of Queretaro, Guanajuato, and Durango,
by Guantitlan, Huehuetoca, and Peurto de
Reyes, through gently-rising hills; the road
from Acapulco, by the summit La Cruz del
Marques, to Guchilaque and Cuernavoca ; and
the way of La Peubla by Rio Frio and Tes-
melucos, from the Cerro del Telapon, in con
nection with that from the Sierra Nevada to
the great volcano Popocatepetl.
The old city of Tenochtitlan was divided
into four quarters called Xochimilco, Atza-
cualco, Mayotla, and Cuepopan. These divi
sions are still recognised in the present city of
Mexico in the quarters St. Paul, St. Sebastian,
St. John, and St. Mary ; and the streets run
much in the same direction as did the ancient
ones. The new city is situated on the same site as
the former, between the extremities of the
lakes Tezcuco and Xochimilco. The town
was of yore separated from the continent by the
waters of Tezcuco, communicating with it by
dikes and causeways ; but those briny streams

THE CITY OF MEXICO. 53
having receded to the distance of nearly
15,000 feet from the centre of the city, the
intervening ground consists of pretty chinam
pas and saline marshes, dotted with pools of
mud and flocks of wild fowl. The citizens at
present derive their fresh water, by means of
canals, from the Lake of Xochimilco.
The city of Mexico presents a fine appearance.
Its situation, and the character of the surround
ing scenery, are most imposing. The suburban
roads are lined with splendid trees ; and large
tracts of land are devoted to the culture of
fruit-trees and flowers. The principal streets
are broad and well paved, and run in straight
lines, with intersecting squares. The houses
are frequently built of hewn stone — tetzontli,
or porphyry ; and are erected round patios, or
court-yards. Lodges, offices, and coach-houses
are on the ground-floor ; next comes the story
occupied by the domestics; and the upper
rooms are the best and most fashionable, the
principal saloon being often about thirty or
forty feet in length. The windows are gaily
balconied and draped ; and the azoteas, or flat
roofs, afford pleasant retreats in the cool of the
evening. The population of the city is esti
mated at about 130,000.

54 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
Puebla is considered the second city of the
republic. It is open, cleanly, and pleasant :
the streets are as well paved as those of the
capital, and less crowded with beggars. House
rents are one-third, nay, often one-half less
than in the chief city. Churches and convents
flourish here in great numbers ; and the neigh
bourhood is also celebrated for its productions
in glass and earthenware. On the eastern
side is a beautiful Alameda, or public walk,
planted with rows of fine trees, behind which
flows a pretty river, supplying in its course
water-power for several manufactories.
The town of Xalapa and its vicinity, con
stitute the garden of the country. It is most
romantically situated, the houses being perched
upon the crests of lofty hills, and the streets
forming a kind of intervening valleys. So
salubrious is the locality, that residents upon
low lands adjoining the coast, resort to it as a
refuge from the malaria fever, during the hot
season. The lovely freshness and greenness
prevailing here, is caused by the damp atmo
sphere driven inland from the sea to rest
upon the town; and the dewy, rainbow-like
mist, followed immediately by the most dazzling
sunshine— reflecting itself a hundredfold from

XALAPA AND PEROTE. 55
the glistening earth and foliage — have together
the most superb effect imaginable ; and are
more striking still from the suddenness and
completeness of their changes. The houses in
Xalapa are more comfortable and better fur
nished than in almost any other district of
Mexico : the walls and ceilings are often
pleasingly decorated, and the apartments,
though low, have a cheerful aspect.
The inhabitants number 11,000. The gene
ral tone of society is above the average in the
country : there are fewer beggars in the
streets, the Indian population is not so
wretched, and virtue and religion are held in
somewhat higher respect. The ladies of Xa
lapa are celebrated throughout the land for
their beauty, in such wild poetry and song as
have survived the shock of revolutions, and
the degradations of war and superstition.
Their features are well shaped, their com
plexions rosy, and their eyes fine and lus
trous; their manners are refined, their dis
positions pleasing; and, upon the whole,
they furnish as favourable a specimen of
the female character as can be found in
Mexico. Perote is a small town on the road from

56 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
Xalapa to Puebla, containing between 2,000
and 3,000 inhabitants. The dwellings are
chiefly of only one low story, strongly built ;
and the town is well supplied with fresh
water from the elevated grounds beside it.
The country around is rugged and hilly,
interspersed with dreary moors and hollow
chasms; and the people are, for the most
part, as wild and uncouth as the features of
the scenery.
Gueretaro, on the road northwards, is a
cotton-manufacturing city, containing 10,000
inhabitants, and celebrated as the birthplace
of a numerous family of pronunciamientos.
The population are remarkably ignorant, and
the place literally swarms with priests and
soldiers. Guanajuato is famous for its silver-mines,
the working of which was formerly profitable
in the extreme ; but the better part of the ore
has been obtained, and the city is now compa
ratively deserted in consequence.
Zacatecas is a still more celebrated northern
mining town, situated among silver-producing
mountains. Its streets are narrow, crooked,
and precipitous ; churches and religious shows
are very numerous, although the lower class

DURANGO AND SANTA FE. 57
of residents are very dishonest and barbarous.
Frisnillo and Sombrereto are also famed for
their valuable silver-mines.
Durango is the principal city in the region
of the north : it boasts of a mint, is the seat
of a bishopric, and has a splendid cathedral.
The Inquisition had formerly a vast and ter
rible establishment in this city, the buildings
of which frown upon the landscape, in all their
original sternness. The Alameda — situated
beside the " Plaza de los Toros," or bull-ring
— is one of the loveliest in Mexico; it is
ornamented with plentiful flowers and trees,
and cooled by a brilliant fountain. Durango
is supposed to occupy almost as much ground
as the city of Mexico itself; though it con
tains scarcely more than 20,000 inhabitants.
Jesus-Maria and Chihuahua are also con
siderable localities in the mining districts of
northern Mexico.
Santa Fe is the capital of New Mexico,
distant only fifteen miles from the great Rio
del Norte. The town is poorly arranged,
small, and confined ; and its buildings, with
the exceptions of the palacio, the custom
house, and the barracks, are even unusually
humble and inconvenient. The population of

58 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
the city, together with several villages in the
suburbs, amounts to about 6,000.
Caneles is a mining town in the direction of
the Pacific. Its mountains abound in silver-
ore, but it is of so poor a quality that the
shafts have never been extensively worked.
An English mercury-mining company, how
ever, have carried on their operations there.
The streets of the town are poor and narrow,
but the neighbourhood is beautifully verdant
with all manner of fruit trees ; and the climate
is most delightful.
Tamazula is a small town on the same river
as Caneles. Culiacan and Cosala are towns
of some little importance in the same vicinity.
Guadaloupe de Calvo, also, is a city contain
ing about 10,000 people. It was partially
built by the English, who established and
formerly conducted extensive silver- mines in
its neighbourhood. The sash-windows made
by the English, may still be seen in the walls
of certain habitations in this town.
Cuernavoca is built in the valley of that
name, in the tierra caliente ; notable for the
beauty of the tropical scenery around it, and
for the wretchedness of the Indian habitations
composing its suburbs. Several stages nearer

YUCATAN AND TABASCO. 59
to the Valley of Mexico is Cuautla; the
houses of which city are small but cleanly ;
and the inhabitants good-humoured and lazy.
The country adjoining abounds in sugar
plantations, haciendas, and luxuriant forests ;
and swarms with miserable Indian labourers.
Ayotla (near the mountains of Popocatepetl)
and Tenango, are two of the concluding stages
on the road to Mexico in this direction.
The peninsula of Yucatan is a province of
Mexico, but its situation is too isolated to be
very dependent, either commercially or politi
cally, upon the republican government. It
is bounded by Vera Paz, by Chiapa, and by
Tabasco. The climate is hot, and the ground
hard, but productive. It furnishes cotton,
wax, honey, cochineal, and valuable trees ;
and amber is to be found on the coast.
Ancient Indian ruins and other curiosities
have been discovered in this region ; but few
attempts have yet been made to cultivate
either the country or the people.
The territory of Tabasco lies low and open.
The district produces many fruits of the finest
quality, and timber trees of the greatest value.
It is exceedingly subject to hurricanes and
storms, and is very unhealthy.

60 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
The province of Chiapa abounds in pine and
cypress woods, and cedar and walnut trees;
others also flourish, from which are derived
liquid amber, copal, tacomaca balsams, and
aromatic gums. Maize and cochineal also
flourish in abundance ; together with pigs and
beautiful birds, sheep and snakes, goats and
horses, leopards and wild boars. The city of
Chiapa contains a cathedral and a monastery :
but it has been for many years in a declining
state, notwithstanding.
Vera Paz is a rugged and broken, but very
fertile region. It is subject to awful tempests
of thunder and lightning, winds and earth
quakes. Amber, gum-trees, and immense
canes, together with fine fruits, may be met
with in abundance everywhere ; and many
wild animals — tigers, bears, serpents, wild-
boars, monkeys, porcupines, squirrels and
cats, with eagles, sea-crows, bitterns, storks,
humming-birds, and parrots, may be observed
constantly ranging the wilderness woods, or
bounding over the thirsty plains, in every
season of the year.
I have thus briefly characterized the prin
cipal towns, cities, and provinces, of the Re
public. An exceedingly great proportion of

UNEXPLORED REGIONS. 61
the latter are still unexplored and uncul
tivated, and but thinly inhabited at the best :
— and any very lengthened description of the
former would be tedious — so similar are the
main features of many of the smaller places,
to those of their larger and more interesting
prototypes.

62 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

CHAPTER XXVI.
INDEPENDENT MEXICANS.
National pride. — Patronising manners. — Drunken inde
pendence. — A swaggering postilion. — Braggadocio and
abasement. — The adventures of an intoxicated family
group.
One feature of the Mexican character obtrudes
itself forcibly upon the attention of a foreign
resident, at an early stage of his experiences
— their braggart pride, and lofty assertion of
personal independence. You will seldom en
counter a Mexican at all removed from the
lowest grade, who has not such an overwhelm
ing idea of his own grandeur and importance,
that he will admit of superiority in no shape
or form. If you meet him on equal terms,
and desire to enter into conversation, he
immediately gives you to perceive that he
patronizes you. Employ him in the meanest
capacity— whether he waits upon you at table,
feeds your mule, or furnishes you with boots,

INTOXICATING DRINKS. 63
spurs, or wearing apparel, and you remunerate
him fourfold — he is still your patron.
Confer an obligation upon him, or put
yourself to inconvenience to serve him,
still he patronizes you; and his acceptance
of your kindness is a condescension. Nay, I
verily believe, that if you were to save his life
at the peril of your own, he would even then
patronize you, and account you his debtor that
he did you the honour to allow his life to be
saved !
This peculiarity, however, is more whimsi
cal than offensive ; for no affront is in
tended by it. But there is, however, a kind
of drunken independence — if I may be allowed
the expression — in which an ignorant mind is
apt to clothe itself as with a garment, when
ever the body is prostrated by intoxication.
I do not consider the Mexicans generally an
intemperate people ; but their favourite liquors,
drunk to excess, have as powerful an effect
upon them as more fiery alcohol has on the
natives of other countries : and when a
Mexican of the patronizing stamp has his
natural independence augmented by his
jpotations, he is a remarkable specimen of
human nature indeed — sometimes verv dis-

64 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
agreeable, but often excessively whimsical and
diverting. Of an exhibition of these two qualities in
happy unison, I was unexpectedly a witness,
at a public room adjoining a fonda, to which
I had gone for my usual evening meal of
mutton, frijoles, and tortilla-cakes.
A good-looking postilion was standing — or
rather drooping, with a swaying motion of the
body — at one of the side tables, in the midst
of a group of boon companions, who were
profiting by his generosity ; for he was treat
ing them to divers cups of aguardiente at his
own cost. He was in the condition I have
named : a very impersonation of patronage, he
lorded it over his comrades with mock-majestic
mien and out-stretched hand ; his head rolled
from side to side in an important manner ; his
eyes glared fiercely and brightly from under
his slightly-raised eyebrows — his long hair was
pushed backwards on his shoulders — and he
appeared to have appropriated the whole of the
conversation to himself.
His dress and entire accoutrements also
partook of the portentous swagger and solemn
joviality of the man : his broad sombrero was
set smartly on one side of his cranium ; but

A FUDDLED POSTILION. 65
its dignity was marred by the ragged appear
ance of the crown, which had started up from
the other parts from the effect of some cruel
crush it had received : the scarlet handker
chief beneath it, too, would have looked attrac
tive, only that it partially hung in shreds down
to his waist behind. His finely embroidered
shirt was wofully stained and bespattered with
mud and liquor ; stray tufts of straw were
visible from the pockets of his smart, round
jacket; the bells, which usually added such a
charming finish to his lower garments, were,
for the most part, flattened or incomplete ; and
his spurs ! — Holy Virgin ! were it possible to
arouse and sober him by any earthly considera
tion, it would have been the soiled state in
which his spurs — those jewels of his heart —
were to be seen at that moment !
The chief points of his discourse appeared to
relate to those subjects of his patronage — his
employers. No words can adequately depict
the oracular majesty of his speech, or the
brag-gadocio of his manner, as he delivered
himself of his opinions.
"The Seiior and Seiiora who employed
him," he said, " were utterly unworthy of his
services : they were no better than himself;
VOL. II. f

66 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
and some people whom he could name"— here
he winked upon his companions — "assured
him they were not half so good. Then why
should he serve them, and wear their clothing 1
He had often told them he should quit their
service and be his own master; and now,
then, he would do it. Why should he be
dependent upon them for the food he ate?
He would bear it no longer, but would de
mand a pension for his services, and retire, and
employ a postilion of his own. He was
acquainted with their secrets ; and if they
denied him his request, he would make public
a few little matters that they would- give any
money to conceal, he was sure ! "
The poor postilion rambled on after this
fashion for some time, and lashed himself and
his independent opinions into such a fury,
that he madly tore the hat and handkerchief
from his head, and the bells from his in
expressibles, and dashed them indignantly
against the wall of the apartment.
Ere long, however, his violence seemed ex
hausted, and a revulsion of feeling took place.
Conscience, it was evident, began to accuse
him ; and he became as cringing and abject,
as he had been elevated and uproarious ; and

DRUNKEN REMORSE. 67
his speech, when he resumed it — which he did
in mild extenuation — afforded the strongest
possible contrast to his former boastfulness.
" Had he said anything disrespectful ? Queen
of Heaven ! nothing was further from his in
tentions than to say anything disrespectful.
He believed he had said nothing- which could
possibly be construed into anything disrespect
ful. Especially of the good and dear Caval-
lero and his lady who employed him ; he would
not say anything disrespectful for the world !
Again he hoped that he had not said anything
disrespectful 1 "
He now proceeded, in his humility, to poke
his face close to the countenance of every indi
vidual round him, and inquire from each in
turn, if he had given utterance to anything
disrespectful? And each assured him with
the utmost promptitude (for they were drinking
his aguardiente at the moment) that he had
done nothing of the kind.
All but one man — a little fellow on short
allowance of drapery — upon whom drink was
beginning to have the same effect as it had
previously had on the postilion. This indi
vidual stoutly contended that the other had
been disrespectful, — very, — and a violent

68 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
quarrel was the result. The little man
was wofully beaten and punished before he
would relinquish his point; and the postilion
was thrust into the street by the late recipients
of his bounty— bleeding and wounded, minus
hat, bells, and scarlet handkerchief; his clothes
hanging in miserable shreds and tatters about
his person.
A yet more grotesque assertion of this inde
pendence shewed itself on another occasion, as
I was travelling from the city of Puebla to
the town of Perote, in the company of a small
caravan of pedlars, guards, and carriers.
We had arrived within three hours riding
from the latter place. It was early in the even
ing, and very hot ; so as we had the remainder of
the day before us, we allowed our animals to take
their own time in carrying us to our journey's
end. Proceeding very leisurely, therefore, we
were overtaken by a man mounted upon a sorry
mule, and a female with a child, who walked in
a faltering and hesitating manner beside him.
They had come from one of the little villages
on our right hand, and were anxious to reach
Perote before nightfall. They were both in
toxicated; and the female produced a small
coin — I could not see the amount — to secure

A FAMILY PARTY. 69
the protection of the troop for herself and
family. The first act of this worthy trio, was for
the man to inform the company " that his name
was Zarios — Senor Zarios — that the lady near
him was his wife, and that the child was their
son ; and furthermore, that they were proceed
ing on a little social visit to some particular
friends of theirs in Perote." I never saw a
more comical expression of drunken gravity,
than his face assumed as he favoured us with
these particulars ; and the wonder was, consi
dering his tottering motion, that he contrived
to keep upon the back of his mule from one
moment to another.
In the next place, both the lady and her
husband took upon themselves to declare,
patronisingly, that they were well acquainted
with every individual of the party. They had
seen us all before, many times, and were grati
fied to see us looking so well ! Could we tell
them how the health of Friar Rosen was ? and
whether his secular assistant was a chosen
vessel ofthe Virgin ? Also whether old Pedro
Quonce was still alive ? and if Aliza had not
left the barber's ? Ha! they had had many
friends in their time; and had some still.

70 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
Yes ; they were going to pay a little social
visit, then, to some particular friends of theirs,
in Perote ! "
The stammering grandeur of their manner,
and their familiar questions to persons who
had never set eyes upon them before, afforded
no little diversion to the troop ; yet it had no
effect in moderating the garrulity and con
descending patronage of Sefior Zarios and his
buxom dame.
They then introduced their hopeful son and
heir to the notice of the company. " Was
there such another child to be found any
where ? Was he not beautiful ? — a fit subject
to dedicate to the service of Our Lady herself?
He was so sweet-tempered, and not at all tired
of walking yet ; when he was, he should ride
beside his father. They were very fond of
him, and so were their friends. They were,
even then, on their way to pay a little social
visit to some particular friends of theirs in
Perote !"
What must the lady do the next moment —
in her misty apprehension of things — but mis
take me, mounted upon my little pony, for her
husband ! She stumbled up to me, and began
to pinch my elbows and knees, in a playful man-

MAUDLIN ENDEARMENTS. 71
ner, humorously inserting her fingers between
my ribs, at short intervals, by way of variety.
As I did not respond to these affectionate
endearments, however, she laid her hand so
heavily on my shoulder, as almost to upset me
as well as my gravity, and bawled into my ear,
" I have paid for our protection, love ! Do not
look so downcast, for we shall soon be with our
friends at Perote ! " Then she pinched my arms
and knees and sides again, and hung about the
neck of my pony ; so that for some time I was
unable to assure her of her mistake, and to
convince her that I was not indeed her liege
lord and master.
By-and-bye Senor and Sefiora Zarios began
to perceive that the favours of their conver
sation were lavished upon indifferent and un
worthy auditors ; for a kind of horse-laugh was
the only reward generally bestowed upon their
attentions. Their dignity became aroused,
and their patronizing and independent spirit
speedily found other ways of venting itself.
They were now excessively solemn and un
yielding; and jogged on together in offended
silence, a little in advance of the irreverent
company. Amused by their indignant bearing, we

72 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
halted to refresh our animals before sunset.
And now their high spirit urged them to shew
their independence of us in the strongest
manner. " They would do no such thing as
wait ; not they ! They would go on without
us !" So, much to their own satisfaction, and
amid the unrestrained laughter of our party,
they left us behind ; the woman and her son
riding, and Senor Zarios staggering on, in
his old imposing manner, close behind.
As we approached the walls of the town, at
dusk, some of our troop thought they could
see a mule lying on the ground, to our left,
with one figure or more hanging over him as
he lay. We drew nearer to the spot, and the
true state of the case presented itself to our
view. I must say it was with a grim satisfaction
that I beheld, not only the mule, but Senor
Zarios himself, lying forlornly helpless and
bedraggled, in a pool of slime and mud ; into
which they had strayed, ignoring the proper
path. There they floundered as they might
have done in a comic dance ; the mud rising
in the richest profusion at every movement,
till it seemed likely that both man and animal
would soon be covered over. The mule kicked

UNEXPECTED FRIENDS. 73
Senor Zarios, and Senor Zarios kicked the
mule ; while the lady and her little boy
struggled wildly to release them, tugging
first at one limb and then at another, and
screaming loudly to aid their endeavours.
"And this," thought I, "is the party who
were proceeding to pay a little social visit to
some particular friends of theirs, in Perote !"
We assisted the woe-begone, well-assorted
couple to their feet ; yet, as we did so, Senor
Zarios, stupid and unconscious, muttered words
of patronage and independence. But, by this
time, some friends whom he had not ex
pected, arrived upon the scene ; and bore him
and his good lady away with them, to share
their quiet hospitality.
Need I add that their evening's entertain
ment took place in a strongly-guarded recep
tion-room ; and that their hosts on the occa
sion were the police-officers from the town-
gates.

74 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

CHAPTER XXVII.
INCIDENT AT A PUEBLO.
Story of an old alcalde. — Life in an isolated hamlet. —
Indian cattle-stealers. — The savages' revenge. — The
padre and his household. — Terrible storm. — Hacienda
set on fire by Indians. — Horrible slaughter. — Escape of
prisoners.
I once prevailed upon an old gentleman with
a benevolent countenance, shining locks of
white hair, and a belief in predestination, who
resided at the same meson as myself, to favour
me with the particulars of his past history ; it
was a sufficiently varied one, and may serve to
illustrate a wild phase of Mexican life, such as
residents in remote districts are to this day
continually exposed to.
" I have no doubt, my child " (this was his
favourite mode of address to all younger than
himself), "that you have heard some mysterious
reports about me," he said. "Perhaps you
may have heard that the old alcalde is re-

AN ALCALDE'S HISTORY. 75
garded as an alien and an intruder, residing
here without a carta del seguridad" (the card of
safety, or permit, granted by the government) ;
" and that I, a quiet, feeble old man, am more
than half suspected by the underlings in
authority to be a spy upon their administra
tion. But it was predestined: all is pre
destined, believe me ! And now you shall
hear the truth.
" It was ordained that I should be a kind of
petty governor of a distant district in the
neighbourhood of Zonoma, where many years
of my life were spent. I lived most happily
in the midst of my domestic circle, for I had a
beloved wife and interesting little family. I
had nothing to do among the residents of the
settlement but to superintend my own hacienda
(or farm), and in my own way to administer
such justice — it was not much — as was re
quired. Ah ! those were indeed happy days —
days of sunlight and prosperity. Our cattle
and horses were healthy and abundant —
Heaven smiled upon our labours; and the
earth richly rewarded the little pains we be
stowed upon its cultivation. Our only fears
arose from the liability of the pueblo (hamlet)
to be attacked and robbed by the Indians;

76 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
and against this we were constantly on our
guard. I had always treated them kindly, as
the Virgin is witness ; but treachery is their
appropriate element : it is their very nature to
steal — doubtless their destiny, poor creatures !
and they could not help it.
" Father Pablo — a priest, whose arrival in
the neighbourhood occurred shortly after my
own — acted as resident priestly missionary to
the pueblo : he too had a household, and a
happy one ; and so it might have continued,
but for his avarice and ambition. Although
his estate was considerable, he was continually
grasping to enlarge it; and he increased his
stock of cattle ' and horses proportionably : so
rapidly did his responsibilities multiply, that at
length, when one or two of his domestics fell
sick, he had not sufficient herdsmen to keep
his cattle and stock of all kinds properly
together. " His growing wealth and fancied security
offered an undue temptation to the Indians;
and, in an unlucky hour, they planned a
descent upon his property. One bright moon
light night the padre was aroused by an un
usual noise on the premises, and looking out,
he was just in time to behold a great number

INDIAN DEFEAT AND REVENGE. 77
of his best cattle disappearing in the distance,
marshalled by a company of stealthy savages.
The owner was not the man to suffer this
robbery with impunity ; so, alarming nearly the
whole district, and placing himself at the head
of some chosen followers, he sallied forth
before the dawn of morning in the direction
the plunderers had taken. By the middle of
the day he had overtaken, engaged, defeated
them, and recovered his missing property;
which he brought back in triumph — though
several of the Indians were wounded, and two
killed in the skirmish.
" Had this been all, we should have had no
very great reason to complain ; but the Indians
— in obedience to the laws of their pre-ordained
nature — were revengeful. And though we
heard nothing more of them for some time, yet
on the very earliest occasion when Father
Pablo was absent, they returned in greater
numbers, laid a great part of his domain in
ruins, and, not content with driving away
nearly the whole of his horses and cattle, they
carried off his wife and three children in addi
tion. This was a terrible blow to the Padre ;
for he had been much attached to his wife and
family : especially to the youngest, a fine boy,

78 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
his favourite child. The deprivation seemed to
change his very nature, and to make him like
the ravenous beasts. Arming himself, and
pressing every available person and weapon
into his service, he once more set out upon
their track. The encounter that ensued was
short, fierce, and decisive ; and it ended in the
holy father recovering his family and stock :
with the exception of his favourite child, who
had been killed by an old Indian in revenge
for the loss of his son. Three of our people
were wounded in addition ; many of the offend
ing savages were slain, and seven of them were
captured. " These the padre ruthlessly ordered to be
shot, and the command was carried into effect
— for it was one of the things that were to be.
On his return, he made arrangements for dis
posing of his stock and farm ; and immediately
quitted the district, taking up his residence in
the capital. He hired a house in the Plaza
Mayor, where for many years — so changed
had he become — he led the life of a tyrant to
his family. He had always disliked his female
companion since she had been carried off by
the Indians ; and the distaste had extended to
her children, now that his favourite boy was

A THUNDER-STORM. 79
no more. It was my fate, however, to suffer
in the greatest degree from these untoward
circumstances; for the Indians made a horrible
reprisal upon the remaining residents for the
loss of their comrades.
" Oh ! how distinctly do the events of that
night dwell in my remembrance. A terrible
storm, accompanied with thunder and light
ning, had visited us during the evening : a
perfect hurricane ! The rushing wind blew
in such tremendous gusts, that trees were torn
up by their roots, and borne away ; many of
our sheds were totally unroofed, and the rain
descended in such torrents upon the cattle
within, that the water rose to their knees as
they stood ; while the vivid flashes of light
ning, breaking from time to time through the
growing darkness, affrighted them almost to
madness. As the storm continued, things be
came but little better in-doors ; for many parts
of our habitation threatened to give way ; and
the women and children raised their cries and
lamentations, in unison with the howling- of
the winds, the bellowing of the cattle, and the
pelting of the rain. For two hours, the war
without raged thus violently ; and when, at
length, it began to subside, we found it neces-

80 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
sary to visit the outbuildings, to make some
temporary arrangements for security and com
fort till the following day ; so that it was not
until a very late hour of the night that the
members of our household, as well as those of
our neighbours, could obtain repose.
" I was awoke from an hour's feverish
slumber by a loud knocking at the door of my
chamber. I hastily rose on hearing a voice
I well knew, and unfastened it immediately ;
when a confidential servant entered, and almost
einking on the floor, exclaimed, ' The savages
have returned in greater force that ever ! Oh !
Senor, we are lost ! They have surrounded
the buildings, and are at this moment pre
paring to set fire to them ! '
" I hastened to the window and looked out.
The news was but too true : building after
building echoed to the most horrible whoops
and yells ; clouds of smoke arose from every
quarter; and already a dreadful hissing and
crashing sound could be distinguished. My
heart sank within me, my head drooped upon
the ledge of the window at which I stooped,
and for a moment I lost my consciousness.
"I was aroused by the grasp of a heavy
hand upon my shoulder ; and as by this time

STRUGGLE FOR LIFE. 81
the flames without rendered objects in the
apartment indistinctly visible, I thought it
was my servant. ' Juan,' said I, abstractedly,
' collect all the arms in the house : we will
not surrender our lives without at least an
effort!' "'The Alcalde!' exclaimed a deep voice
behind me, and at the same instant the hand
tightened on my throat with sudden ferocity,
'The Alcalde! The Alcalde I'
" Turning round in the extremity of suffo
cation, I saw that a tall and powerful Indian
was behind me, and that, while his right hand
was grasping my throat with determined
energy, the other was fumbling about for a
knife that had fallen on the ground. Before
he could regain his weapon, I sprang up,
madly striving to free myself from his hold ;
and a desperate struggle for existence ensued
between us. We tugged, and strained, and
fought : but his strength held out longer than
mine ; and, utterly powerless, I was just on the
point of yielding, when my adversary's grasp
suddenly relaxed, and he staggered and fell.
Much to my surprise, I perceived that he had
been stabbed from behind by my wife; who,
recovering from her first stupor of fear, had
VOL. n. g

82 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
courageously hastened to my rescue in time
to save me. Snatching up the children, we
rushed out as the flames began to gather
round us : but we were seized by a party of
our enemies in waiting below ; our hands were
tied, and we were dragged to the spot where
the majority of our friends and neighbours
were lying, in the same condition as our
selves. "The flames behind us had by this time
spread far and wide. The houses had taken
fire from the out-buildings, from thence it had
communicated with a group of noble trees at
no great distance; and as these stood at the
entrance of a deep wood, it seemed impossible
to conjecture where the conflagration would
end. The sight of the flames mounting and
crackling, lighting up the pitchy darkness for
miles around, was awful in the extreme : yet
we were too much absorbed in the contempla
tion of our approaching fate, to pay it much
attention. We were not, however, kept long
in suspense.
" Oh ! the cruel ruin of that night ! Oh !
that it should have been so predestined !
Alas ! my poor wife and children ! how could
I survive you, murdered in cold blood before

inmlx

V> i.J,i i

DIRE CRUELTY — AN ESCAPE. 83
my face ! For the next act of our inhuman
captors was to form the prisoners into two
divisions ; then, placing all the old men,
women, and children together in a group,
they put them to death without remorse.
The survivors, consisting of myself and the
most able-bodied of the men, they intended to
carry away with them as prisoners.
" For three days and nights we were care
fully bound and watched, and were obliged to
accompany the Indians as they leisurely drove
our cattle before them. On the fourth day,
however, one of our number contrived, with
the assistance of a tree, privately to loosen the
cord that bound his hands; and patiently
awaiting for night, was fortunately able to
render the same service to a few of his com
panions. I was one of the number.
" When our enemies had stretched them
selves upon their blankets for the night, we
found means, after much scheming, effectually
to silence the guard before he was able to give
the alarm, and so managed to make good our
escape. After innumerable fatigues, dangers,
and privations, and with the loss of one of our
comrades, we reached the capital ; and here I
have since been living in great obscurity, and

84 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
almost utter solitude. I was old when these
misfortunes came upon me ; alas ! how much
older has grief made me since that time !
And when I tell you that I am not absolutely
poor ; that my wants are few ; and that I am
as contented as it is likely I can ever be in this
world, you are in possession of nearly my
whole history — such as it was pre-ordained
to be."
Thus runs a translation of the old alcalde's
narrative, word for word, as he related it
to me.

HACIENDAS, OR FARMS. 85

CHAPTER XXVIII.
MEXICAN HACIENDAS, OR FARMS.
Character of scenery.— State of agriculture. — Fences,
implements, and crops. — A hacienda. — The agave, or
maguey plant. — Mode of obtaining pulque. — The
Vaquero, or cow-herd. — A lazy brute and his canine
companion. — Seeking stray sheep.
In such a country as Mexico, it is in vain to
look for the rural beauty and tranquillity of
more favoured countries. Rich as are the soil
and climate, the most frequent aspect of the
scenery is wild and desolate ; and as the soil
needs but small attention and cultivation, the
little that it does demand has been withheld.
Dense and teeming forests — where the branches
of trees are interlaced, herbage grows rank
and unrestrained, and flowers are borne down
by their own abundance — present themselves
on the one hand ; while on the other, whole
tracts of country are neglected — lands which,
with the slightest care, might produce an

86 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
endless abundance: beds of hardened land,
covered with layers of soil and rubbish, and
miles of undulating upland and valley, which
ought to be duly ploughed and sown with
wheat and Indian corn, are all waste and use
less. Indeed, it is seldom that the eye can rest
upon a spot where the evidences of care and
cultivation are visible. The most magnificent
and entrancing prospects are to be found occa
sionally; but they owe everything to nature,
and nothing to man. We gaze with wonder
and untiring admiration upon the beauteous
works of God ; but when we view the rich land
scapes in connection with the prosperity and
advancement of mankind, our thoughts find no
response, and we turn from the prospect with a
feeling of unmingled sadness.
The spots most resembling the old familiar
scenes in England, are to be found surrounding
the better class of haciendas, or plantation and
agave farms, in some of the more rural neigh
bourhoods. Agriculture is in a lamentably backward
state, at present, in Mexico. Many portions of
the country require to be irrigated from time
to time, the rainy season not continuing long
enough to produce sufficient moisture beneath

MODE OF MAKING HAY. 87
the surface of the more arid regions. Fair
and promising crops have absolutely withered
away, because the shallow streams in their
vicinity have dried up ; and as the constitution
and habits of the people are opposed to all in
novation in the shape of improvement, in many
instances no provision whatever is made for
irrigation. In some districts, certainly, there
are large drains or ditches (acequias), from
which individual farmers are allowed to form
minor drains and reservoirs ; but too often the
former are allowed to remain out of repair, and
the latter are wholly unused.
The elevated plains in the temperate region
afford excellent grazing lands ; for though the
ground is occasionally too dry for agricul
tural purposes, it produces remarkably fine,
nutritious g-rass. This grama is most valuable
immediately after the rainy season ; it is fre
quently left on the ground to become hay
during the winter, in which state it supplies
the earth with abundant food, without the
trouble of having it cut and stacked. Stacks
of oca, or fodder, are often to be seen in the
vicinity of the farm-houses; but as a rule,
little provision of this kind is cared for.
Mud fences and walls of adobe bricks are

88 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
sometimes to be observed in place of other
divisions on the fields ; more commonly, how
ever, there are no enclosures at all; con
sequently, the owners of cattle and horses
are compelled to employ herdsmen, to prevent
them from encroaching on the crops and lands
of their neighbours.
Agricultural implements are miserably rude
and inefficient. Their wooden ploughs are
usually shaped out of the trunk of a tree, cut
into handles ; the ploughshare being merely a
wooden projection sloping downwards; while
the yoke consists of a flat beam, to which the
oxen are secured. The hoe, of uncouth manu
facture, and frequently containing little or no
iron, is the article most in use upon the lands.
Thus are the people condemned, by their indo
lent spirit, to throw up the soil from the first in
a sIoav and unsatisfactory manner, on account
of the unserviceable nature of their most indis
pensable instruments of cultivation.
Pure vegetable and farinaceous productions
are neither very various nor extensive in this
country. Indian corn and wheat are the
recognised staple articles of the latter class ;
and in some soils two or three crops are
realized in one year. Frijoles, or small beans,

PRODUCTS OF THE SOIL. 89
are grown extensively. Chile pepper is culti
vated on numerous large tracts of land. The
wild potato, of small size, appears in some dis
tricts, but its nurture has been generally
neglected. Onions (xonacatl), artichokes (ta-
garninas), water-cresses, gourds, sorrel, and
haricots (ayacotli), are all cultivated in great
quantities. Among productions of tbe soil of
another kind, must be mentioned the agave, or
maguey, upon the culture of which great care
and much time are bestowed, as it furnishes
the national drinks. Cotton also must be
named, though it is not grown to a tithe
of the extent which the country would admit.
A species of wild flax is to be found in
abundance at the bases of many mountains,
yet no attempts are made to rear it. Tobacco,
though cultivated in considerable quantities
in a few districts^ does not occupy a portion
of the attention which might profitably be
devoted to it. Sugar plantations are to be
encountered in some fine neighbourhoods ; they
are most numerous on the plains in the direc
tion of the Pacific. Bees'-wax is produced in
great quantities, and its consumption, in the
shape of church candles, is enormous. But the
most flourishing production of the country,

90 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
perhaps, is the banana tree; its fruit is so
abundant and massive, that a field only
capable of producing thirty pounds of wheat,
would yield three or four thousand pounds
weight of food, if planted with the banana or
plantain. Numerous haciendas throughout the repub
lic, which were at first only single farm-houses,
have become miniature villages and hamlets,
composed of a number of habitations of dif
ferent grades. This is one effect of the
unsafe and uncertain state of society in the
country. The traveller may occasionally observe a
favourable specimen of one of these haciendas
before him, as he descends the rugged moun
tain paths so frequently to be encountered on
his way. Perhaps it may be in the bosom of
a verdant hollow, enclosed on all sides by hills.
The walls of the principal buildings will most
likely be of a particoloured admixture — here a
dash of red, and there a wall of white. Small
huts will probably surround the larger erec
tions, where the Indian labourers on the estate
reside. Sugar plantations may be seen in the
background, of a productive quality, and kept
in better order than ordinary. The landscape

CULTIVATION OF THE MAGUEY. 91
altogether is of a very attractive character ;
the surface of the soil is rich and varied ; and
a look of prosperity and happiness pervades
the whole. He will meet with a hearty wel
come on his arrival on the grounds ; and if
he wishes to survey the various arrangements,
they will be cheerfully exhibited to him. He
will be led through storehouses and kitchens,
to inspect boilers and pressing machines, cool
ing vats and moulding-rooms, where birds in
cages are kept about the walls, and every one
appears to be employed and contented. This,
however, is a very favourable specimen indeed
of such establishments.
The peculiar and important culture of the
maguey plant demands a somewhat more
lengthened account.
The agave or maguey plant — said to flower
in some countries only once in a century —
blossoms on good soil in this country once
every five years. Toluca and Cholula are the
districts most celebrated for its cultivation.
Two of the most extensive national drinks are
distilled from it — the pulque, and aguardiente
or mexical ; it yields a great quantity of sugar ;
and its fibre has been made into flax, and some
times paper; for the ancient Aztecs painted

92 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
their hieroglyphics upon paper made from it.
The singular process of extracting its juices,
however, yet remains to be told.
The greatest possible care and deliberation
are employed to ascertain when a maguey has
arrived at its period of flowering ; for it will
die if any mistake be made in this respect.
The object of the proprietor is then to obtain
the juice, which in the course of nature would
nourish and supply the large and numerous
flowers. To this end, an incision is cautiously
made in the stem, on the very earliest indica
tion of forthcoming blossoms : first, the central
leaves are slit ; then the opening is gradually
enlarged, taking care, meantime, to tie it
securely on the outside with leaves and hemp ;
and in this artificial receptacle the whole
abundant juices of the plant collect. The
sweet fluid continues to form in this manner
for from two to three months, and this won
derful natural fountain may be tapped by the
attendants three or four times a day.
Eight quarts of pulque are frequently derived
from this singular plant in one day ; three of
which are obtained at sunrise, two at mid-day,
and three more in the evening. The root of
this shrub is unusually strong and tenacious ;

FERMENTATION OF PULQUE. 93
so that the plant is hardy, although the stem
perishes after the period of flowering. A
number of new sprouts speedily spring up
from the old stock ; for no vegetable product
thrives more generously than the maguey.
The fermented juice has an agreeable, sweet,
yet acid taste ; and in three or four days it is
nearly ready for use. To assist the process of
fermentation, the natives add a little old pulque
of an acid quality. This drink has a peculiarly
strong scent ; but when a stranger has become
habituated to this, the flavour is a rather plea
sant one. The pulque and aguardiente are —
if we except atole — the most favoured and
universal beverages in use in Mexico ; pulque
being a light, thin drink, and aguardiente a
strong distillation, nearly as intoxicating as
brandy. It is not surprising, then, that this unique
vegetable spring should be highly valued
throughout the republic ; and become an arti
cle of commerce in itself, as well as the juices
that are continually being fermented from its
stem. The vaquero, or cow-herd, of a farming
hacienda, is a human sloth — an impersonation
of sluggishness — living in such a state of un-

94 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
consciousness of all necessities, that the idea of
labour in any shape— even standing, thinking,
seeing, or eating— is a burden. He is a crea
ture who would hug himself— were it not too
much trouble— upon his very vacancy : upon
his seeming non-existence.
There he reclines at full length, in the shade
of yon huge plantain tree ; the immense
shadows of whose branches, cast by the sun
light on the ground, have often changed their
shape and place since the morning hour ; but
the place and posture of the vaquero, since
then, have changed not, save for the purpose
of lazily doling out from his pouch some fruits
and nuts for his own eating : nor is he likely
to arouse himself before the shades of evening
gather upon the landscape.
It is the business of the vaquero to preserve
the sheep and cattle under his charge from
straying and making inroads upon the unpro
tected vegetable and grazing lands of other
proprietors ; but as the animals are almost as
indolent as himself— lying as they do, blinking
and sleeping in the more shady parts of the
field — his occupation is a very light one, and
he trains himself to follow it with only one
eye, and that but partially open.

PORTRAIT OF A VAQUERO. 95
Behold the boor as he breathes heavily and
sonorously upon the ground ! Every limb
seems relaxed with laziness ; his hands are
partly closed — for it would be labour to hold the
fingers extended ; his knees are turned to rest
upon the earth — for to bear their own weight
would be impossible ; his mouth hangs open —
for it would require exertion to keep it closed,
and at present it assists his breathing. His eyes
are shut — except the business one, which half
opens with difficulty from time to time. His
head, bushy with thick masses of tangled hair,
is bowed upon his breast ; his hat is placed for
ward on his forehead ; his serape" is folded
beneath his head ; his pantaloons are unbut
toned at the waist; and his boots are almost
off — for the confinement of clothing would
interfere with his ease and enjoyment.
It required the application of the whip this
morning at the hacienda, to rouse him from
his nightly slumbers, and it is only the fear of
the whip that induces him to bear an eye to
his important duties at present. The whip
darkens the quiet sunshine of his existence
always ; for without thatj his portion in the
world would be too blissful for humanity. He
is not incapable of exertion, however ; but the

96 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
evening hour, when all is cool, is the proper
time to exercise it— then, after he has girded
up his loins and escorted his charges to their
resting-place, for the night — when he is cosily
seated by the furnace-side in the servant's
room of the farm — his feats in bolting the
tortilla cakes, and clearing the mutton platters
are astounding : empty cups and pots of stew
attest his energy, and his attentions to the
pans of frijoles and chil<5, and his exertions
in swallowing draughts of pulque and atole,
are most laborious.
What cares he, meanwhile, for republics or
empires, pronunciamientos or rebellions ? War
or treason, courtly luxuries or mercantile dis
asters, are as nought to him. Allow him his
shadowy resting-place and luxurious ease,
his ragged serape and battered sombrero, his
savoury supper and straw couch o' nights, and
let the world go on as it pleases ! He knows
no want, and he desires no change. What
animal could ever wish for greater happi
ness? He has a companion by his side also, nearly
as gloriously idle as himself— a dog who looks
very like a wolf, for his colour and outline are
of that savage kind. He winks and slumbers

UNUSUAL EXERTION. 97
like his master, sometimes in the shade, and at
others in the sun, and has the same fear of the
whip before his eyes. They are a worthy
couple ; very much alike in every respect.
Alas ! for the height of human or canine
felicity here below ; even the waking dreams
of a vaquero and his four-footed comrade are
liable to disturbance.
Presently the dog begins to open his eyes,
growl, and stretch his legs, and the man, on
hearing the well-known signal, betrays un
wonted signs of returning animation. When
tlog and man have gained their feet, their
demeanour assumes a strangely different ap
pearance ; the dog is all noise and irrita
bility, and the man all bustle and activity.
Several sheep in the distance, having left the
main body and strayed out of bounds, are
greedily nibbling the rich green frijoles in
a field belonging to a neighbouring farmer !
A sweltering race has that poor vaquero to
run, over the fields in the burning sunshine,
after the missing sheep. He holloas, pulls
up his pantaloons, perspires, and raves, and
calls upon Our Lady, as he manoeuvres to get
on the other side of the wanderers by the
nearest way; yet the truaut animals appear
VOL. II. h

98 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
obdurate to his advances. The dog leaps and
yells, and, being indifferently trained to this
part of his duty, frightens the sheep away,
instead of driving them in. At length, how
ever, the offenders are secured in their old
quarters ; the dog is left in charge ; and the
vaquero retires once more to his shade beneath
the plaintain, conscious that he has earned a
lengthened and grateful repose.

TOBACCO PLANTATION. 99

CHAPTER XXIX.
A PLANTATION ANECDOTE.
Culture of tobacco. — A plantation. — Processes at a to
bacco factory. — Rival planters. — Malicious dilapidation.
— Destructive reprisal. — Duel between the rival pro
prietors.
Although tobacco is not cultivated to a great
extent in Mexico, flourishing plantations may
be occasionally found, especially on the table
lands of Anahuac; and were due attention
but given to the subject, its growth and ex
portation might prove a considerable source of
wealth to this republic, in its difficulties.
A tobacco plantation is frequently a hot and
busy scene. Dark men, almost entirely divested
of clothing, may be seen stooping over the
dreary-looking plants ; clearing away any dust
or damaged leaves that may have gathered
about them, watering them in the most careful
manner, and tending them in many particu
lars, almost as if they were children.

100 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
A tobacco factory, however, is a still busier
and more interesting sight. The plants are
gathered and stowed into hogsheads ; layers of
leaves, and often even single leaves, are sepa
rated from each other; then they are re-ar
ranged into fresh layers, and sorted according
to their qualities ; next sprinkled with the juice
of liquorice; and pressed and arranged over
and over again, until they are judged ready
for shipment and sale.
Two planters, to the west of Vera Cruz, had
sedulously conducted their estates and business
transactions in the spirit of the most violent
opposition for a long period. The rules of
their establishments, the growth and treatment
of tobacco, the prices of their cargoes, the
choice of markets, and tricks of competition
and sale, had each afforded sufficient grounds
for continued variance and bitterness. If one
of them discovered a new and profitable market,
the other was sure to make a rush in the direc
tion with reduced prices. Had the former
contrived some new arrangement, either in
producing or bargaining, the other was certain
to puff off his own commodities by its aid.
In fact, their spirit of rivalry had for years
been so strong, that the interests of both

RIVAL PLANTERS. 101
parties had suffered in a great degree in
consequence. The animosity of the owners had extended,
as is generally the case, to the servants and
labourers employed on the plantations. De
monstrations of defiance and opposition had
been often exchanged between the hostile
parties : many were the petty annoyances to
which each band had subjected the other ; and
many a hand-to-hand fight and general skirmish
had taken place, in assertion of stated rights,
and defence of doubtful privileges.
On one particular occasion, the Indians em
ployed upon the plantation called " Naqua "
perceived, on entering a field after sunrise, that
a number of the finest tobacco plants had been
cut down in the night, and their leaves, which
were fast approaching maturity, recklessly
cast to the four winds. Several vats and
vessels containing water had also been broken,
and their contents wasted, so that the re
maining shrubs would sustain injury from
lack of moisture. Three of the sheds, used for
drying and sorting tobacco, had been sadly
abused and delapidated; and to crown the
whole, the watery contents of a couple of large
cisterns had been set afloat, to saturate a quan-

102 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
tity of the best hogsheads lying in the store
room. It was at once evident that these things
could only have been effected by their enemies
of the rival plantation. All thoughts of labour,
therefore, were set aside for the day; and a
council of war was immediately held, to judge
of the steps to be taken under such provoking
circumstances. Messages were despatched to
acquaint tbe owner — who resided at a little
distance — with the facts of the case. A few
of the overseers, and the cooler portion of the
labourers, were for awaiting his arrival and
decision ; but a body of the more impetuous
marshalled themselves in array, and hurried
off in great force to revenge their insults on
the opposite estate, and its labourers, without
delay. They approached the place in silence ; but,
as they came within sight of the main allot
ment, they observed a small body of guardians
stationed beside it, as if expecting them. The
sight raised their indignation; and they at
once vented their outraged feelings in an
unanimous whoop of defiance, which was re
sponded to in a similar manner by their ene
mies on the watch. The besiegers rushed

ANGRY REPRISAL. 103
fiercely upon them, and after a brief but
brisk engagement, carried all before them —
the numbers of the defending party being
totally inadequate to offer an effectual re
sistance. Elated with their victory, and stung
by remembrance of the ruin they had beheld
on their own plantation, they proceeded to take
summary vengeance, by ransacking and de
stroying everything upon which they could
possibly lay their hands. They trampled
down whole beds of flourishing plants, and
cut up many others, root and branch; over
turned great piles of leaves which were ar
ranged on shelves and tables to dry, and im
mersed them in a narrow stream of water
flowing through the estate. They forced open
hogsheads of tobacco ready for shipment,
tearing the wooden staves and bands apart,
and scattering their contents on the earth on
every side ; unroofed and pulled down a num
ber of slightly-built sheds and store-rooms ; and
destroyed or appropriated every needful utensil
which they were able to discover onthe premises.
In a word, so complete was the ruin, that
within half an hour after the first appearance
of the Naquaians, little remained to indicate the
uses of the place ; and Httle probability existed

104 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
of its ever again being brought into effective
operation as a tobacco plantation.
During the interval, however, the besieged
party had been running hither and thither to
collect their scattered forces ; and now, with
the owner of the estate as their leader, they
advanced with bitter animosity and fierce
impatience, against the invaders. A second
and a longer continued engagement was the
result. The former had armed themselves
with hoes, and poles, and rakes, while a few
had produced knives and old muskets; their
opponents being provided with similar weapons
from the first. They fell upon each other
headlong; poles, and hoes, and bludgeons
flew into the air, and alighted on the heads
and shoulders of enraged combatants; and
broken heads, loud execrations, bleeding limbs,
and impatient groans became the order of the
day. Several worthy belligerents lay upon
the ground, wounded and overpowered; and
much serious mischief would, doubtless, have
been done, only that the muskets were all
but useless; and the arms that wielded the
bludgeons— belonging to Mexican Indians
and half-castes — were none of the strongest.
While the affray was yet at its height, a

MUTUAL RECRIMINATIONS. 105
horseman rode hastily in the direction of the
contending parties. It was the proprietor of
the Naqua plantation; and his appearance
seemed to infuse new vigour into the ranks
of his devoted labourers. He made his way
immediately to the leader of the opposite
party ; and calling upon both classes of com
batants to desist, he demanded a parley for
mutual satisfaction.
For a short time, the rival planters entered
into conversation, for the ostensible purpose
of bringing matters to an amicable conclusion.
Both gentlemen, however, were too inflam
mable and exasperated to listen either to
reason or argument; and, as neither would
yield in the least to the other, nothing came
of the consultation, beyond a number of
alleged grievances, and a volley of the most
abusive epithets.
" If I am a thieving lepero," exclaimed
the first, " thou art a blood-sucking zopilote
— always buzzing over the concerns of thy
neighbour, to prey on his destruction."
" Dog of a tobacco swindler, I defy thee ! "
was the prompt reply.
"Wretch of an alacran, I fear not thy
sting ! " exclaimed the other.

106 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
" Thou art a malignant demon, unfit to be
turned loose ! " vociferated the Naquaian.
" Thou art a wicked fiend, fresh from pur
gatory !" was the rejoinder of his adversary.
As may be readily conjectured, such
pleasant observations could only be introduc
tory to blows — and blows and thrusts soon
came of them, accordingly. They were both
armed with knives; and, in a few minutes,
the Naquaian contrived to plunge his weapon
with such effect into the right arm of the
other, that he was unable to continue the
engag-ement upon any terms. The la
bourers belonging to the assailed plantation,
seeing their leader defeated and wounded,
beat a speedy retreat, bearing* his bleeding
person in the midst, and leaving the elated
Naquaians undisputed masters of the field.
So effectually was the aggressive plantation
maltreated and destroyed by its incensed
visitors, that it subsequently became worth
less ; and its owner disposed of it for a trifling
sum, soon after recovering from his wound.
And to this day the Naqua tobacco-estate re
mains without a rival in its immediate vicinity.

WILD-CATTLE HUNTERS. 107

CHAPTER XXX.
WILD-CATTLE HUNTERS.
Dexterity in lassoing. — Cattle-hunters' fare. — Defence of
wild-cattle against wolves. — Inducements to hunters. —
Departure for a cargo of hides. — Sunset on the prairie.
— The hunter's terrible dream. — A perilous position. —
Combat and retreat. — Struggle in the water. — Safe
deliverance.
The use of the lasso in many parts of Mexico
has almost become a science, so dexterous
are the people in its management, and so
unfailing, generally, is their aim. The wild-
cattle hunters of the prairies have only to
come within hailing distance of a herd, to
select the finest and the best, and to consider
them as certainly their prey, as if their hides
were already laid on the backs of their horses,
and their fat melted into barrels for sale.
These hunters often proceed in large parties ;
and, in this manner, vast numbers of cattle

108 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
are captured — many hundreds being often
destroyed during a single expedition. Some
times small bands of these herd despoilers will
issue forth, while, not unfrequently, one or
two hunters set out alone, to do a little
business on their own account; none favour
ing them with any commands in the matter,
and none, on the other hand, participating in
their gains.
There is nothing so mysterious about this
art of lassoing, however, as has been occa
sionally represented. The requisite skill and
delicacy (for there is actual delicacy of han
dling in it) have to be acquired by slow degrees
and continual practice ; many a mortifying
mistake, caused by too great quickness or
too much deliberation, has to be endured by
the tyro ; and in this profession, as in every
other, there are some who are never destined
to shine.
The life passed by these hunters is a wild
and singular one : oftentimes shut out by vast
tracts of country from the comforts of home,
and everything approaching the refinements
of civilization, it is as " rough and ready "
an existence as can well be imagined. Trust
ing most frequently, as they do, to the issue

a hunter's fare. 109
of their day's adventures for the supply of
their daily food, brisk exercise and free air
combine to give them most voracious appe
tites; and they are not very nice in their
mode of gratifying them — a huge steak or
joint from a recently slain ox, broiled with
the hide upon it, upon an impromptu wood
and earthen fire, affording them a ready and
substantial meal. Sometimes a little maize,
or hard tortilla cake, is added to this; but
more commonly is it partaken of without any
such accompaniments. The bare and rugged
earth supplies them with an ample couch,
upon which they sleep undisturbed by dreams
or nightmare — unless it happen that the
wolves in the neighbourhood are unusually
bold and hungry; while their only covering
is the canopy of heaven — unless there be a
tree, or grove of trees, in the vicinity : not a
very usual occurrence there.
The wild-cattle themselves are a shaggy
set of independent, impulsive, roving blades.
There is something absolutely comical in the
mixture of innocence and suspicion, of fierce
ness and vacancy, observable in their coun
tenances. They are sociable together, too,
and fair in their conduct to one another ; each

110 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
keeping to his particular knoll of herbage —
when it is in plenty — without molesting his
neighbour. When grass grows scarce, how
ever, fierce looks are often exchanged, eyes
glare, horns are lowered, tails are elevated,
bellowings rend the air, stubborn hides are
pierced, and blood flows upon the ground.
These bisons are of smaller size than those
which roam the prairies of more northerly
America: they have somewhat lean bodies,
short horns, squat faces, long tails, and a
prodigious quantity of hair upon their shoul
ders. Their most formidable enemies, after the
hunters, are the wolves, so common in Mexico.
These fierce but cowardly beasts are of medium
size, and of a peculiar reddish shade of colour ;
they frequently follow herds of cattle in im
mense gangs, for days together, running to the
right and left, and howling, — only awaiting an
opportunity to rush upon them in an unguarded
moment. It is an impressive spectacle in the
prairies, especially in the silence of night,
after listening to the confused tramp of many
feet in the distance, interspersed with bellow
ing roars and savage yells, to behold the dark
forms of a herd of cattle advancing at slow

DEFENCE AGAINST WOLVES. Ill
and measured pace, with a troop of their adver
saries following stealthily and sulkily close
behind, eager for the slaughter, but half
afraid to commence the attack. The wild
cattle, however, have a bold and intelligent
manner of defending themselves from the
assault of their obstreperous foes. On the
alarm of their near advance, they quickly form
themselves into a circular or oval phalanx ;
presenting their fronts, bristling with horns, in
every direction to the invaders. It has been
said also, that in these arrangements, the aged
and incapable are placed in the centre, for
protection. However this may be, the fore
most ofthe assailants are sure of encountering a
very sharp reception, for the cattle catch them
dexterously on their horns, and toss them,
maimed or killed outright, into the air. But
the unequal engagement cannot last long ; for
while the wolves are receiving the reward of
their presumption, a number of undefended
points are unavoidably exposed in the hitherto
impenetrable host. These inlets are speedily
taken advantage of by other wolves, who
fasten upon the sides and limbs of their
victims, and are not to be shaken off. The
result usually is, that a goodly number of the

112 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
unoffending herd become the prey of their
cruel and dastardly enemies.
The inducements presented to the cattle-
hunters for the destruction of these animals
consist in the hides, which form a considerable
article of commerce ; and in the fat, which
they melt down into vessels and hogsheads,
also for sale.
"Thy blessing, holy father!" exclaimed one
of these hunters, to a priest located in one of
the northern villages,— " thy blessing, holy
father, and that of Our Lady on my expedition.
I am about to set out that I may reach the
(red point' of the prairie at sunset, to be
ready for the morning. I have promised Zio
a whole cargo of hides — as many as my horse
will carry— in two days from this. Grant
thy benediction then, holy father, upon my
journey ! "
The priest muttered some words over him
in an incongruous mixture of the Latin and
Spanish languages; and the hunter imme
diately commenced his journey in the highest
possible spirits, and with the fullest certainty
that his expedition would be happy and pro
ductive. Urging his horse to its utmost speed, he

SUNSET ON THE PRAIRIE. 113
arrived within sight of the prairie before
sunset ; and by the time that luminary was
sinking on the verge of the horizon, he had
reached the spot indicated.
The Red Point was the name given to a
spot where the soil was of an extremely ruddy
colour ; and as the sun now cast its last burn
ing rays upon the earth, the glowing appear
ance was heightened, insomuch that it might
have been mistaken at first sight for a sheet of
water reflectingthe gorgeous atmosphereabove.
Our traveller gazed for a little while on the
scene before him; not that he could appre
ciate its beauty, but he was endeavouring to
calculate from its aspect, the degree of to
morrow's heat. He then slowly turned his eyes
in the direction of the east, then towards
the north, then towards the west again,
taking in every object between himself and the
horizon in his range. Apparently satisfied
with his observations, he Avalked his horse to a
slight hollow at a little distance, containing
three trees, and tied the animal to the trunk of
one of them ; then as the darkness came on, he
proceeded to select a grassy nook within a few
paces of the tree, and after refreshing himself
and horse, laid him down to rest. Deep sleep
VOL. II. i

114 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
overtook him as the stars above appeared in
their accustomed places, and the scene, which
had lately been so glaring, became enwrapped
in the cool and quiet lustre of a tropical night.
He slept soundly for several hours ; dream
ing about his home in the village, and the
expectant wife he had left behind. Next
his thoughts recurred to Zio the dealer, to
whom he had promised a goodly number
of hides within the space of two days.
Then he dreamed of the priestly father, of
whom he had a great dread, and of his part
ing benediction on his journey : he thought,
in his vision, that the priest was before him,
and gazed upon him ; that as he gazed, his
aspect changed, and he regarded him with
the most dreadful sternness — accusing him
of forgetting his evening prayers and Aves
before lying down to sleep upon that spot.
The priest's aspect grew more and more
severe; his countenance became more ter
rible, and his voice louder and harsher than
before ; finally, he stood over him and cursed
him with loud and dreadful imprecations, and
forthwith consigned him to the torments of
purgatory, in retribution. Yes, he felt that
he was there: there, among the unhappy

THE HUNTER'S DREAM. 115
spirits, suffering the extremity of torture !
And, oh ! the awful groans and howls of
ang-uish that resounded through that dreadful
place ! How the wretched spirits ground
their teeth in rage and despair ; and shrieked
and tore themselves in agony, as they leaped
and sprang out of the circling flames, crack
ling and hissing around ! Now a troop of
fiends surround him, and he feels the burning
heat has seized upon him ! They take and
thrust him among the fiercest of the fires ;
and 
Suddenly he awoke, with a start and shud
der ; his person and clothes bathed in perspira
tion, which fell from him like huge drops of
rain. The stars were shining calmly above
him, but the dreadful sounds of which he had
been dreaming still seemed to salute his
waking ears. Yells and shrieks, howlings and
groanings, sounded close beside him, thrilling
through every nerve ; and still they ceased not.
Presently he heard a sound which recalled his
scattered senses.
It was his horse in the midst of a pack of
wolves !
It was too late to save him. The wolves,
pinched with hunger, are unusually daring at

116 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
night. There is a numerous herd of them,
and they are quarrelling together over every
morsel of the spoil ; for there is not sufficient
to satisfy the whole. Several of them have
turned away, with their hunger sharpened, and
approach the hunter, while their companions
are battling for the horse's bones. Meanwhile
he has started up, seized his double-barrelled
rifle — the only weapon, beside his lasso, which
he has brought with him — determining to hold
out as long as possible, and to sell his life as
dearly as he can.
The wolves now surround him as he stands ;
but hesitate in advancing to the attack. This
race of wolves are in the habit of retreating
from the presence of man, unless in extreme
want ; but now it is night ; they are in great
numbers; their appetite has been stimulated
by the taste of blood ; there is but one man —
and they come nearer. So closely they ap
proach at last, that he can perceive the star
light reflected brightly, though in a warmer
tint, on their eyeballs ; while the vapour of
their breath envelopes him. Animated by a
sudden and almost despairing impulse, he
levels his piece at the nearest group, and
fires. One of the wolves lies dead, another is

A RETREATING COMBAT. 117
wounded, and the rest retreat to a little dis
tance in alarm.
It is not for long, however ; they perceive
that nothing- follows, and very soon return.
They approach him, and close him round
again : his position is critical. They come
nearer still. But a slight diversion in his
favour occurs from their summarily falling
upon their comrades who have just been shot,
and devouring them with savage eagerness.
This second course produces almost as much
confusion as did the first ; under cover of
which the watchful hunter attempts to retreat
slowly and carefully from their immediate
neighbourhood. Soon they follow him once more ; and every
barrier between him and a dreadful death
seems removed. Still he retreats slowly and
half unconsciously : they are very near him
now. Now, one has leaped upon him ; and
the remaining barrel of his rifle has exploded
in the strug-gle. Fortunately it has shot the
wolf in question ; the rest fall back in affright,
and devour their dead companion as before.
If he can only gain the deep stream which
he sees shining on his right hand, the hunter
will have a chance of safety : the water will,

118 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
at all events, be an auxiliary to him, as he is
an excellent swimmer. The thought inspires
him with renewed hope and energy ; he hal-
loos, and beats off his enemies at every step ;
and, after many narrow escapes, he reaches
the banks of the river. The wolves, however,
appear to have a perception of the importance
of the moment; and just as he is about to
plunge into the stream, they make one fierce,
simultaneous rush upon him.
For an instant nothing can be discerned but
foam and splashes, as the water is divided
both by the assailants and assailed. The
hunter, diving beneath the surface, has almost
placed himself beyond reach of the wolves ;
whilst many of their bodies float around him,
drowned. He is beginning to congratulate
himself on his deliverance, as he perceives
his enemies yelling and gnashing their teeth
together on the opposite bank, when he feels
himself seized by two animals of a larger and
stronger growth than the rest. Their teeth
almost meet in his flesh, and, in spite of his
utmost exertions to the contrary, they are
gradually drawing him under water. In vain
he grasps their throats with maniac energy ;
still they keep their hold, and the stream

STRUGGLE IN THE WATER. 119
becomes dyed with his blood. Presently, the
smaller of the two looses his hold ; the current
carries him away, and he is drowned.
Only one of his assailants, a large she-wolf,
remains to be dealt with now. He struggles
desperately, but in vain, to free himself from
her grasp ; yet he perceives a kind of fixedness
in her movements that he had not observed
before. Stretching out his arm once more, he
places his hand upon her head and mouth ;
and finds that she is dead. Still her weight
draws him downwards : almost immediately,
he feels a faintness creep over him ; he loses
his consciousness ; and, with the gripe of the
dead wolf still fixed firmly upon him, he
sinks below the surface of the water. But in
the act of sinking, the bodies of the hunter and
his enemy cleaving the stream violently, the
hold of the beast became relaxed. The man
rose to the surface, and his head coming
in contact with a sharp projecting rock, his
consciousness returned. He opened his eyes
forthwith struggled, to the bank, and, in
great weakness and exhaustion, succeeded in
climbing upon it. As the first rays of the
quiet morning light broke in the distance,
the full particulars of his past peril flashed

120 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
upon his mind ; he turned and beheld the last
group of his assailants retreating in the oppo
site direction, and folding his hands upon his
breast, he gave hearty thanks to Heaven for
his deliverance.
Bandaging his wounds with some strips of
linen torn from his dress, he retraced his steps
towards the village ; where he arrived in the
evening, without horse or hides, and almost
overpowered by fatigue and hunger. The
dealer, Zio, on hearing his story, disbelieved
it altogether, and persisted in asserting that
he had disposed of his hides and pony to
another merchant on his way. While the
priest, on the other hand, never failed to
impress upon his mind, that his night's mis
adventures had been caused by his own sinful
neglect, in not paying his evening devoirs to
the Virgin, before he lay down to sleep beside
his horse, on the Red Point of the prairie.

A FOREST WALK. 121

CHAPTER XXXI.

SNAKE-HUNTING.

Forest paths. — A narrow escape.— Mule killed by a ser
pent. — Snake-hunters and their implements. — Atrophy
of the chase. — Snake-hunter's song.
Having become quite careless and thought
less on the subject of snakes, I wandered
through forests and brakes, beside tufted rocks,
and over trunks of fallen trees, just as if there
were no such dreaded animals in existence;
but chanced, however, about the time that
the indifference resulting from long impunity
had reached its height, to receive a very im
pressive reminder of the dangerous power of
these reptiles.
Passing through a forest, in the vicinity of
a small hamlet called Suera, in the tierra
caliente, at an early hour in the morning,
and finding it excessively hot, though the
sun had not long risen, I was glad to
loiter along a narrow path in the shade

122 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
of the overhanging trees; my mule walked
lazily a few paces before me, stopping from
time to time to insert his nose in a tuft of
grass, or a heap of dried leaves upon the
ground. Proceeding in this manner for some
distance, I at last began to see the sunlight
on the other side of the wood, and to think
of the heated atmosphere into which we were
about to emerge again.
I stepped aside for a moment to admire a
rich tuft of large purple flowers, my mule
having plodded on about eight or ten yards
ahead, when, as I turned from the flowers
towards the path, a sensation as of a flash
of lightning struck my sight, and I saw
a brilliant and powerful snake winding its
coils round the head and body of the poor
mule. It was a large and magnificent boa
of a black and yellow colour, and it had
entwined the poor beast so firmly in its folds,
that, ere he had time to utter more than one
feeble cry, he was crushed and dead. The
perspiration broke out on my forehead as I
thought of my own narrow escape ; and only
remaining a moment to view the movements
of the monster as he began to uncoil himself,
I rushed through the brushwood, and did not

IMPLEMENTS OF SNAKE-HUNTING. 123
consider myself safe until I was entirely free
of the forest.
I had occasion to return by the same
road in the evening; but on arriving at the
wood, I turned into a different path from the
one we had taken before ; and kept an eager
watch on the surrounding trees and bushes.
Having- almost reached the middle of the
wood, I heard a number of voices chanting a
wild air, and on turning an ang'le of the road
saw a troop of figures — Indians and Mestizoes
— advancing, armed with long poles and flex
ible steel wands, which they flourished in the
air as an accompaniment to their song. On
their first appearance I thought them robbers,
and grasped the old leathern purse in my
pocket as I would have done the hand of a
departing friend ; but a nearer approach
satisfied me as to their avocation : they were
snake-hunters. Their long poles were used
for the purpose of starting their prey, and
overpowering them when discovered ; and the
flexible steel rods in their hands were still
more characteristic of their vocation, being
often used so dexterously as to cause instant
death to a serpent of the largest size.
These quaint sportsmen trailed behind them

124 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
a huge snake which they had recently killed.
I eyed it with some attention as they came
up, and discovered that it was very like the
monster who had devoured my mule in the
morning : there were the same head and
eyes, the same black and yellow scales, and it
was of similar proportions. I raised the skin of
the throat, which had been cut, half expecting
to perceive the shaggy ears of a mule remain
ing there undigested ; but no such appearance
could I discern : he might have been my enemy
of the forenoon notwithstanding, and I tried
to persuade myself that he was so. I regarded
the group, as they retreated, with mingled
feelings of satisfaction for the justice they had
done, and of sympathy for the risks they must
encounter in their dangerous pursuit.
The songs often indulged in on these ex
cursions are generally rude, unmeaning, and
untranslatable ; but the following is an English
imitation of one of the least barbarous : —
" Come brothers away ! to the far, wild brake,
Where the snaky tribes their pleasure take •
Where they slily spring from their greenwood lair,
On the innocent prey that passes there.
Death to the serpent ! brothers, I say,
On with me ! come away ! come away !

snake-hunter's song. 125
" Smoothly and gaily the monster trails,
With his shining spots and golden scales ;
Till charm'd with his dazzling brilliancy,
The victims gaze, and gaze till they die.
Up brothers, on ! his pathway trace,
For death lies hid in his vile embrace !
" The forest flowers will more gaily spring,
And the birds aloft the sweeter sing,
And ev'ry beast of the field be glad,
When the foes of all on the earth are laid ;
For the birds and beasts, and the flowers fear
The wily serpents who ambush there !
" Soon our hunting-poles shall quickly chase
Their enemy from his lurking-place ;
And our trusty knives and steel wands true,
Shall drink the blood of the reptile crew.
Death to the serpent ! brothers, I say,
On with me ! come away ! come away ! "

126 pictures of life in Mexico.

CHAPTER XXXII.
A SONG TO THE VIRGIN.
Travellers' anticipations. — Beauties of Mexican scenery. —
Mountain passes. — Tropical trees and flowers. — River
scene. — Distant view. — Music at twilight. — Song to
the Virgin.
An Englishman, perhaps, of all people, is the
least likely to be satisfied with the life and in
stitutions he may encounter in foreign countries;
and for the very sufficient reason, that he has
more cause than any one else to be satisfied
with his own.
Many a discontented Briton, wearied with
the conventionalities of home, and anxious for
a change, has packed up his trunk and set
out on his travels, in search of Utopias and
bowers of Paradise. But as those white
cliffs he was so anxious to leave behind really
begin to fade in the distance, he feels a sadness
of the heart creeping over him ; and when

MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 127
they are completely lost to his sight, he finds
the brilliancy which illumed imaginary pro
spects, gathers in greater refulgence around
the well-remembered scenes he has for a time
forsaken. In absence, his own country becomes
doubly dear to him ; and he becomes a some
what severe critic on the strange usages by
which he is soon surrounded. As the circle of
his experience widens, though some of his
national prejudices may be effaced, his expec
tations are commonly disappointed : he finds
" nothing new under the sun," and feels,
emphatically, that "there is no place like
home." Yet the traveller may indulge himself,
especially in such a country as Mexico, with
the most pleasing prospects and illusions. He
will see sublimity in the wild mountain-passes,
where all isvast andsolemn, and nothing human
or transient intervenes between himself and
his Creator ; where everlasting hills rear their
heads against the expanse of heaven, and aged
pine-trees cast their sombre shadows; where
volcanic layers and fissures remind him of by
gone ages, and of nature's strong convulsions ;
and huge, rough-cleft rocks and sudden pre
cipices at once assert themselves as the work of

128 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
an All-powerful hand : in such scenes tne way
farer feels himself separated from the worldly
strife without; even his natural voice sounds
drear and changed, andtheveryherbage beneath
his feet appears age-stricken and unearthly.
Then, how delightful to linger on the borders
of a fair tropical grove or forest, where the
orange and pomegranate trees shed a luscious
and appetizing fragrance upon the air ; where
the palm and myrtle flourish together, and
the huge banana affords a cooling shade;
there, too, the citron and mezquite luxuriate,
the cotton-tree and agave vie with one another,
the tulip-tree spreads its branches, and a
hundred delicious fruit-trees bend beneath
their juicy load. Birds of brilliant plumage
scream and fan themselves from bough to
bough; rich painted butterflies flutter about the
scene; gorgeous flowers cluster, and honeyed
trailing-shrubs spring up, and the air is filled
with a hum of music, and all is sunshine and
beauty. One may wander beside a lake or river,
noting how the watery expanse spreads out
from the lucid foreground, forming a bright
flashing mirror midway, and melting into a
hazy distance ; the waterfowl skim and quaver

AN ALAMEDA OR PUBLIC WALK. 129
upon the surface, and leaves and rushes wave
in the open breeze ; how the trees and bushes
are reflected clearly, the ripples burst into life
against the stones, and the extremes of motion
and repose meet together.
Perhaps a lonely valley may entice him,
where belts of landscape, of different kinds,
mount one above another; and miles of corn-
growing uplands and lines of verdant fields,
clumps of dark foliage and beds of ruddy
rocks, sugar plantations and country haci
endas, chile plots and cochineal allotments,
agricultural watch-towers and rural hamlets,
may be reviewed in turn, as they rise in due
gradations to the hills on the horizon.
A shady retreat, beside a spacious alameda,
or public walk, is also characteristic of the
country, where, from a rustic seat, secure
from interruption, one may note the gay
groups of cavalleros and donzellas, advancing
through the avenues of trees, on their evening
promenade ; the fashionable and the luxurious
driving- along in their lumbering- coaches;
and the tradesman and his customers stroll
ing alike at the close of day. Where staid
processions are marshalled past, and stately
officials solace themselves after the fatigues
VOL. II. K

130 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
of duty ; where children play and hide them
selves, and mothers and nurses live over again
the days of infancy; while the sick and
drooping breathe the pure air at stated
seasons, or lovers' vows ascend in sweet
cadences on the air, at twilight.
I have sat under the trees skirting such a
scene as the last, until the gray tints of
evening have deepened into darkness; enjoying
the coolness of the retirement, the luxuriance
of the spreading branches, the vista views in
the changing atmosphere, the sight of the
cheerful homeward-bound figures, and the
sound of merry voices as they swept by.
Sometimes the love-lorn lute of a languish
ing swain would become tenderly audible, or
the murmured song of a soliloquizing cavalier ;
and, more frequently still, would a hymn to
the Virgin — tuned in her honour by some
loitering devotees — strike musically on the
growing stillness of the night.
These songs to the Virgin are, for the
most part, ludicrously childish things : a few
rhymes loosely put together, with nothing to
recommend them but their pious intention.
The subjoined stanzas, however, are imitated
from what struck the writer as one of the

MEXICAN POETRY. 131
best of these performances; though it is not
a song to the Virgin, strictly speaking, but
should rather be called —
Our Lady's Message from Heaven.
Once ere the Angel of Death descended
To our world of woe,
At the throne of the Virgin he attended,
Her pleasure to know.
" Are there any among the maidens bright,
The daughters of men,
Who are worthy to grace my bower of light ? "
Said our lady then ;
" For I would that the pure and beautiful
My glory should see ;
And the good, and the tender, and truthful,
Come hither to me.
" Then in whispers soft tell the young and fair,
What my pleasure is, —
That they flee the false joys of earth, and share
My abode of bliss.
" Of earth's sweetest flowers shall my handmaidens be;
And transplanted here,
They shall bloom in the light of eternity,
My bright throne near."
So now we know when the fair ones we love,
Are summoned away ;
They are gone to attend on the Virgin above,
In glory for aye !

132 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

CHAPTER XXXIII.
treasure-seekers and contrabandistas.
Mestizo digging for treasure. — Hopes and misfortunes
of Lope Cluca. — Unexpected discovery. — Robbery
planned. — The diamond recovered. — Proceedings of
contrabandistas.
The sun was setting gorgeously over the arid
rocks and plains of the mining district lying
between Jesus-Maria and Chihuahua, in the
far north of Mexico — casting, even in its
decline, an intense light and burning heat
over the scene around — when a young man
rose from the sandy earth at the bottom of a
small cliff, in the shade of which he had been
resting, and taking up a pick-axe, prepared
to enlarge a cavity he had formed in the
ground, before the evening should overtake
him. He had begun his operations on this
spot at an early hour in the morning, and had
worked on till the heat at noon became so

A HALF-CASTE ADVENTURER. 133
insupportable, that he was glad to take shelter
in the friendly nook ; where he had slept,
forgetful of the ill success attending his la
bours. This young man was a Mestizo, or half-
caste, called Lope Cluca, much handsomer in
figure and feature than Mexicans of his class
commonly- are; though it was evident all
care of his person was fast giving way to the
slovenliness and neglect which his circum
stances and occupation prompted : and which
might be seen in such perfection among the
Indians and earth-breakers, at a little distance
beyond him. His hair was long and matted,
his clothes were coarse, soiled, and much
worn, his hands and face were darkened by
the sun beyond their ordinary brown hue, and
his beard was untrimmed ; nevertheless, his
fine figure and manly countenance sufficiently
distinguished him from the dirty and repulsive-
looking beings, his companions. He had left
the city of Mexico many months before, in the
hope of mending his fortunes in these sterile
northern districts, where rich veins of silver
were often found by the meanest adventurers ;
and he had confidently assured the pretty Teresa
Alxarra — for whose sake he had left the

134 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
capital and his friends — that .he would soon
return laden with store of riches sufficient for
them all, and which should enable them to
fulfil the dearest wishes of their hearts without
apprehensions for the future.
To tell of the hazards he encountered, and
the privations he endured on his journey,
would occupy too much space. Suffice it to
sa)', he was robbed and maltreated by a band
of ruffianly ladrones, before he had proceeded
a day's journey ; and it required all his forti
tude to continue his route ; but a friend in
need assisted him in his extremity, and re
plenished his empty purse. He had been de
layed and victimized by passport-officers at the
gates of second-rate towns ; had been clapped
into a dungeon for losing a carta of safety ;
and, while there, a holy padre had well nigh
frightened him into purgatory, to extort the
little money he had secreted in the inner folds
of his linen. He had been almost reduced to
beg his way as he ascended the country ; and
suffered from hunger and thirst, nakedness and
oppression, from time to time. At length he
arrived in the silver regions, and commenced
his treasure-hunting toil with the utmost en
ergy and determination ; hoping to discover

MOCKING ANTICIPATIONS. 135
a vein of the precious ore, and make the best
possible bargain with the administradores and
agents in the neighbourhood, either for its
sale or future working. His success, thus
far, had been but scanty ; he was only enabled
to procure sufficient metal to furnish him
with common necessaries : the great object of
his search remained as yet unaccomplished.
Sometimes his expectations had been excited
to the highest pitch by brilliant appearances :
beds of compact white sand and clay had
mocked his ardent anticipations ; white earth,
intermixed with stray particles of silver, had
often dazzled his sight ; but these only served
to enhance his disappointment, and render him
the more impatient of delay.
As Lope Cluca hastily turned over the
gravel at his feet on the evening in question,
murmuring and almost despairing of success
(only supported, in fact, by sweet thoughts
of his absent Teresa Alxarra), his eye was
arrested by what appeared to be a shining
yellow substance, partially covered with the
clay and sand he had turned over. With
eager impatience he seized upon it ; but found,
to his dismay, that the yellow tinge was
caused by the rays of the sun reflected from a

136 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
transparent stone, imbedded in a ball of earth.
He was about to hurl it indignantly away,
when a ray of unusually bright light from the
surface of the stone caught his eye : the piece
of spar was strangely luminous, he thought ; he
turned it over and over in his hand, broke
away the earth surrounding it ; and the stone
shone more splendidly than ever : it was a
diamond of most unusual size, and of the most
dazzling brilliancy !
He threw down his pick-axe, and aban
doned himself for the moment to the extra
vagance of his joy. " At last ! " he exclaimed,
— " at last, my toils and privations are re
warded ; and I shall be enabled to return a
rich man to my native city, and to Teresa.
Gracious Mother of Heaven ! what happiness ! "
He had the presence of mind to check himself
immediately, however, and to cast a hurried
glance around to see if he had been observed —
well aware that the utmost caution would be
required to conceal his acquisition from his
fellow-workmen. On turning to look at them,
however, he concluded that they were too
much occupied with their own labours to have
noticed him ; and he returned to his tent at
dusk under the impression that his emotion

A TREASURE IN POSSESSION. 137
had been unperceived ; taking care to bring
with him his pick-axe and tools, as though
nothing* had occurred ; and concealing his new
found treasure, in a private pocket about his
person. He returned to his labours on the following
day, endeavouring to assume as staid and
demure a countenance before his comrades, as
he could, to disarm suspicion. He began to
dig, too, as usual, but made little progress
in his task ; his mind being too fully occupied
with joyful anticipations, to bestow much
attention on his now needless exertions ; and
long before sunset (for the first time since his
arrival) he had packed up his implements and
hied to his retreat, to meditate upon his good
fortune, and on the readiest method to make
it available for future happiness.
Poor Lope Cluca ! He little dreamed that
an inquisitive eye had watched his movements
on the preceding evening, as he exulted over
his diamond, and that his exclamations on the
discovery had been overheard ; still less did
he suppose that while he was occupied in re
joicing over bliss in prospect, a ruffian was
brooding over a scheme to rob him of his trea
sure, and take away his life.

138 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
This man was of Spanish extraction, and
styled himself " Don" Manuel— by which title
he was well known in the district. His cir
cumstances were desperate when he arrived in
the silver regions, for his life had been one of
the utmost dissipation; and he was totally
unused to labour. It suited him better to
wander about the neighbourhood, keenly
observant of the success of others for no
honest purpose : it was during one of these
rambling excursions that he had been an
unseen witness of Lope's discovery; and he
now believed he had found the opportunity he
had long desired, of enriching himself at the
expense of another.
It was no part of Don Manuel's policy
personally to effect the villany he had designed,
so he cast about for some associate who would
undertake the execution of the plot, for a share
of the booty. His choice fell upon one Cayan,
an Indian of great strength of body and fero
city of disposition ; he trusted that, when the
treasure should be secured, he could frame a
pretext to overreach his comrade, and appro
priate their acquisition to his own use.
While Lope Cluca was enjoying his happy
prospects, these scoundrels were holding a con-

A CONSPIRACY. 139
sulfation together, as to the means for accom
plishing their nefarious purpose.
" I tell you," exclaimed Don Manuel to his
companion, " that Lope placed the diamond in
his bosom, and it will be necessary first  "
" Necessary to find it out, Dios ! Leave
that to me," said Cayan, interrupting him.
" I'll do the business without stumbling over
it, I warrant ; but what is your share of it to
be, my zapilote (buzzard) 1 "
" Ave Maria ! " answered the Don. " My
part will be to watch him, and give you the
signal at the fitting opportunity : you under
stand, danta (wild boar)."
" Quick then, Don Manuel," said the other,
" or I wait not for you. San Miguel ! already
I scent his blood, and I long to see it ! Ave
Seiiora, I think I shall do without you !"
" I will be quick ; and you — you must do it
effectually ! "
"Effectually? De mi ! By to-morrow
night  "
" Yes ! By to-morrow night the diamond
is our own !"
On the evening of the following day Lope
Cluca was accosted by the wily Don Miguel at
the foot of the cliff, and detained in conver-

140 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
sation by him till nightfall, when with a bland
smile he^bade him adieu; and Lope bent his
steps towards his tent as usual.
He had not proceeded far on his way, how
ever, when he stumbled over a large stone
lying in the path ; and directly afterwards felt
himself* struck on the head with a heavy blunt
instrument; so violently, that on the blow being
repeated, he fell to the ground completely
stunned, the blood issuing from his ears and
temples in copious streams.
" That has finished his treasure-seeking, I
swear ! " exclaimed a hoarse voice, as the
Indian bent over him; and, after rifling his
pockets, tore away from his breast, the small
bag- which held the diamond.
The flow of blood from Lope's temples, how
ever, proved the means of recovering his con
sciousness, and he was soon able to move with
difficulty. On recovering his faculties he heard
the sound of voices at a little distance, and
thought he could distinguish these words
uttered in a tone he had heard before : —
" I tell you, I will keep the diamond until
morning, Cayan; when we will have it examined
in order to share its value equally between
us."

DEATH OF THE PLOTTER. 141
" Do you think Cayan is a fool ? " was the
rejoinder. " Jesus Maria ! No ! I see what
you want very well. Dios ! You deserve no
share of the booty at all, for your pains ! "
" But the diamond is mine ! " exclaimed
the other. "I first told you of it. I will
pay you your share equitably ; but the dia
mond is mine ! "
Here a struggle ensued between the con
tending parties : several blows were struck,
and a heavy fall was followed by a cry of
suffering, and a groan ; then there was silence
broken by the sound of retiring footsteps.
Lope contrived to bandage his temples with a
piece of linen he had torn from his dress ; and
with great difficulty dragged himself — fainting
and exhausted from loss of blood — to the neigh
bourhood of the miners' habitations, where he
arrived at a late hour ofthe night.
It was reported betimes on the following
day in the district, that Cayan, the Indjan,
had attacked and robbed Lope Cluca and Don
Manuel, and had escaped ; also that the body
of the latter had been found, close beside the
Nina cliff, quite dead.
Intense was the disappointment and exaspe
ration of Lope Cluca, as he recovered from the

142 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
effects of his wounds, thus to have the cup of
bliss dashed from his lips. He lingered for a
while around the scene of his former success, in
capable of exertion, and careless of what might
befall him. Then, summoning all his remain
ing resolution, he determined to remove to a
distant part of the mining regions; there
to recommence a career of toil and privation.
After two days wearisome travel, therefore, he
arrived within the precincts of another settle
ment, and resumed his labours. This district
was less productive than the last, and far more
exposed to the attacks of hostile Indians, also;
still, he determined to labour on and succeed
in his aims, or lose his life in the attempt.
One bright morning he left his humble couch
earlier than usual, and had strayed to a con
siderable distance on the other side of the
mountain before he became aware of it. He
was abstractedly watching the vapour, as it
still lay in shady spots, or was absorbed in
others by the heat of the newly-risen sun,
when his attention was arrested by seeing, in a
slight hollow in the sand before him, the body
of a tall, muscular Indian, awfully bruised
and mangled, with a mass of congealed and
darkened blood around it. The sight at once

THE DIAMOND RECOVERED. 143
convinced Lope that the inimical Indians were
not far off, and that the butchery before him
was their work.
On approaching the body, he perceived from
various indications that the fatal affray must
have taken place on the preceding evening;
and at the same moment recog-nised the fea-
tures of Cayan, the accomplice and assassin of
Don Miguel ! It was evident that the wretched
man had made a desperate resistance ; his left
hand still clutched a large lock of the hair of
an antagonist, and his right was clenched as
though yet grasping his weapon. His clothes
were tattered, and his pockets were torn away;
but as Lope stood over him, he saw a small
cotton bag peeping forth from the breast of his
Bbirt, which the Indians must have overlooked
in the darkness. He eagerly seized and tore
it open, and with breathless haste discovered
that it contained the missing diamond ! Joy
choked his utterance, tears mounted to his eyes,
and in a transport of gratitude he knelt upon
the ground, and gave thanks to God and the
Virgin. Lope Cluca did not remain long in the silver
regions, after this happy sequel to his adven
ture. He forthwith made arrangements for

144 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
exchanging the small amount of ore he had
collected for its value in money, and only
waited till an opportunity should present itself
of returning to the capital, with such an escort
as might ensure safety on the road. He was
fortunate enough to encounter a company of
muleteers carrying barras of silver, with whom
he set out in high spirits; once more taking
care to conceal his diamond about his person,
and holding little communication with the
members of the troop, that his treasure might
sustain no further risk.
After innumerable alarms of robbers, and a
few stray encounters, in which the travelling
party had the advantage, they arrived in good
time in the capital, where Lope at once pro
ceeded to barter his diamond for a large sum
of money — only a tithe of its value, indeed,
but which amply contented him. The for
tunate Mestizo — now elevated to the dignity
of a caballero, or gentleman — was shortly
afterwards united to his loved Teresa Alxarra,
amid the congratulations of those relatives
whom he was in future enabled to maintain in
affluence. It was often remarked, moreover,
in after years, that he was never better pleased
than when relating to them, and to his family,

a smuggler's rancho. 145
the strange history of the twice-found diamond,
and his past sufferings in the silver regions.
The following anecdote will illustrate the
life led by the contrabandistas, or smugglers,
who abound in such numbers in Mexico : —
It was a merry time within the low double-
roomed rancho of Antonio Pulf, the contra
bandista. A table of goodly dimensions oc
cupied the largest floor; and around it were
seated a dozen swarthy adventurers, or more,
in the most free-and-easy positions, and with
various degrees of dignified joviality visible on
their rugged countenances. The table was
strewed with bowls of aguardiente and pulque,
and platters of meats and tortilla cakes; the
latter of which were smoking hot from the
griddle, and the former burning hot with
chile pepper, as a matter of course. It was
a grand occasion : the gang had been long-
accustomed to carry on their illicit traffic in
defiance and contempt of the government ;
and they had just concluded a transaction on
a more magnificent scale than ever. The
goods had been reconsigned almost imme
diately on the arrival of their smuggling
vessel ; they had received the money, together
with an unlimited allowance of native-dis-
" vol. ii. L

146 pictures of life in Mexico.
tilled spirit, on account ; and they were now
met to feast themselves on the fruits of their
success. The room in which they were assembled was
large, but crowded to inconvenience with tackle
and spars of coasting vessels, kegs, barrels,
boxes, and bales, which they kept as a partly
concealed, partly avowed stock in trade. On
some jagged and broken shelves stood several
large canvass bags, of questionable appearance,
only imperfectly covered by the nets and frag
ments of sails drawn over them. On one side
of the apartment was a huge chest, from under
the slightly raised cover of which gleamed the
point of a sword, and the muzzle of a rifle-
barrel ; it contained, beside arms, different ar
ticles of clothing, three or four boat-hooks, the
like number of coils of cordage, and a couple
of dark lanterns, seldom used. Against the
other wall of the building were ranged a few
barrels, used on the present occasion as side-
tables; though it was no difficult matter,
from their suggestive appearance, to hazard a
shrewd guess as to the real quality of their
contents, could their roughly-nailed covers
have been raised. Boxes and bales were
stowed into corners, and were even thrust

NEWS OF A SEIZURE. 147
under the large table at which their proprie
tory were seated ; for the business was pro
sperous, and the stock in hand usually a large
one. The room behind was only a repetition
of the other, but still more densely crammed
with similar articles.
The hilarity of the festive meeting* was just
at its height, and the capitaz, Pulf — a stal
wart, tall, dark, hairy-faced man — was raising
a brimming cup of spirit to his lips, toasting
success to the cause, when a young contra-
bandista entered the apartment in haste, with
news that the custom-house officers were
out on the coast a little below, and had seized
upon several hogsheads of theirs, by chance
remaining there, as property confiscated to
the government.
In place of this intelligence causing con
sternation among the band, however, they
received it with a most uproarious burst of
laughter, and, after quaffing another cup of
aguardiente each, they rose to their feet and
quitted the rancho; good-humouredly swear
ing, by St. Peter and St. Paul, that they
would trundle the meddling officials inside
their barrels, bring them to their own quarters
there, and cook and eat them for supper, as

148 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
a fitting conclusion to their day's rejoicing.
They well knew that the custom-house officers
of the government were not in sufficient num
bers, either there or anywhere else, to offer
more than a show of opposition to a deter
mined band of contrabandistas !
They sallied forth to the beach at once ;
and the half-dozen custom-house men hastily
prepared to make good their claim to the
hogsheads they had seized. It was a
moonlight night; and, in a short time,
the coast echoed with hoarse shouts and
execrations, and the brilliant light shone
upon uplifted arms and eager combatants.
But the skirmish was only of very brief
continuance: the government officers had to
contend against fearful odds ; they were none
of the bravest by nature ; and, at the close
of the first onset, they turned to fly. The
smugglers followed, in a resolute manner,
at their heels; and would no doubt have
overtaken and captured them, but that their
steps were not quite so steady and certain as
usual, by reason of the liquor they had drunk.
As it was, they were only able to take one
prisoner, who had been slightly wounded in
the fight; and him they seized and drove

A CONSULTATION. 149
rudely before them, as they retraced their way
to the rancho.
Immediately on their arrival, they mounted
the poor officer on the table, among the
bottles, cups, and platters ; and held a drunken
consultation as to what punishment should be
inflicted on the prisoner.
" Swing him up to one of the beams, at
once," shouted a brutal-looking fellow with a
thick neck, a bushy exposed throat, and a red
handkerchief over his eyes.
" Make him stand in a keg of spirits, and
set fire to it," exclaimed another, with a sly
look, and an admixture of the humorous in
his composition.
" Tie his limbs to a coil of rope, and let us
pull both ends of it," quietly suggested a third,
who could scarcely stand, from the effects of
his potations.
" Hang him heels uppermost, and sprinkle
his face with vitriol, till we see what he looks
like," benevolently added a fourth member of
the party.
They were accordingly about to haul him
from the table in the rudest manner, to carry
either one or other of these recommenda
tions into effect, when the capitaz, Antonio

150 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
Pulf, interfered — exclaiming with a loud
voice, that they would give the rascal his
choice either to join the band immediately, or
to suffer death by one of the above-named
processes. The poor fellow eagerly availed himself
of the opportunity of saving his life, and
lost no time in accepting the most favourable
proposal of the leader. Then the smugglers
surrounded and led him before Pulf, who was
seated on the only chair in the room; he
mounted upon it, and from that elevation, de
livered the following impressive charge to his
newly-elected follower.
" Ave Maria ! Thou, who callest thyself
Martin Valio, late an officer in the service of
our foolish and oppressive government, art
now fully admitted a member of our band.
Thou art bound to obey its laws, to execute its
orders, to respect its interests, and to preserve
its secrets. By night or by day, on sea or
on shore, far away or near, thou wilt consider
thyself amenable to this agreement, and serve
us faithfully ; or thy life shall answer it. If
thou dost prove treacherous, our vengeance
will overtake thee when thou dost least expect
it : our emissaries will be ever near when thou

AN IMPRESSIVE CHARGE. 151
knowest it not ; no distance will weaken our
control ; and no power will shield thee from
our resentment. On the other hand, if thou
dost serve us faithfully and well, we will de
fend and support thee, and thou wilt have a
due share of our booty with the rest. In the
name of our Blessed Lady of Guadaloupe,
dost thou accept of these proposals ?"
" In the name of the Holy and Blessed
Virgin, I do accept them !" was the instant
reply of the new-made contrabandista.
Suffice it to say, that the quondam custom
house officer, Martin Valio, proved a most
valuable addition to the band ; and is, at this
moment, the prosperous capitaz of the troop,
in place of his highness Antonio Pulf — who
lately fell a victim to his old wounds, and a
largre importation of new ap/uardiente.

152 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

CHAPTER XXXIV.
A MONKEY ANECDOTE.
Habits of monkeys. — Their sociality. — Treatment of each
other. — Crossing a stream. — A serpent's breakfast. —
The monkeys' manoeuvre to revenge their comrade. —
The snake destroyed.
Many a comical story might be told of the
monkeys who cling and flutter, like uncouth
birds, round the forest trees in the tierra cali
ente of Mexico. Their sociality is amusing;
for they are generally to be seen in compact
tribes or gangs : and very good-humouredly
they seem to affect each other's society.
The tricks they play upon other animals or on
one another, — cheating the harmless denizens
of the forest of their food and habitations;
pilfering the birds' eggs from their nests;
leaping upon the backs of wondering cattle,
tenaciously holding on to their elevated seats,
and pelting and bespattering one another with

TRICKS OF MONKEYS. 153
nuts and bursting fruits — are extremely droll
and cunning ; and their grimaces, whether in
tricksiness or anger, — screaming and mut
tering as though much depended on their elo
quence — are irresistibly ludicrous. When
hungry, their over-reaching habits and quar
rels, over a discovery of food, — each feeling
greater pleasure in abstracting the store of his
neighbour, than in consuming of his own, are
incessant. They are in the habit of shaking fruit or
nuts from unapproachable boughs, and hurling
at each other when on inaccessible elevations ;
and their treatment of the sick and incapable
is barbarously comical ; while their method of
settling disputes among themselves is most
summary and decisive. They often form
themselves into a kind of ladder or chain, and
suspended from trees, sway themselves back
wards and forwards till they have crossed a
stream, by swinging the other end of this
chain-bridge of monkeys on to a tree on the
opposite bank.
One night a monkey belonging to a large
tribe occupying the trees around, had been so
teased by the musquitoes as to be unable, for
several hours, to enjoy his usual repose.

154 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
Losing his patience at length, he gave up the
attempt to sleep, in despair, and determined to
destroy as many of his enemies as possible, in
revenge ; yet the musquitoes continued to buzz
about and feed upon him, and the greater
number he killed, the more was his anger
excited. After being employed some hours in
this manner by break of day ver}' few of his
adversaries remained; and in exultation over
his victory, he made a hasty caper, lost his
balance, and fell from the tree upon which he
had been attempting to sleep.
When he reached the ground, he saw the
glittering eyes of a large snake fixed in
tently upon him, as he lay half coiled round
some loose rocks and stones, with the first
rays of the coming light shining brightly
on his black, white and crimson scales. The
snake had been looking out in a longing
manner for his morning's meal, and the poor
monkey had arrived within his reach most
opportunely. He pounced upon him, and
though the monkey was almost as large as
himself, he quickly crushed him between his
folds, anointed him from head to foot with
his slime; and finally swallowed him, in a
leisurely and self-satisfied manner.

MONKEYS ATTACKING A SERPEM. 155
This process had been observed with great
indignation by the monkeys up in the trees,
and no sooner had the serpent despatched
his breakfast, than a sputtering consultation
appeared to be held amongst them ; it ended in
their unanimously descending to the ground,
at a safe distance from the snake, and collect
ing together as many loose fragments of rock
and branches of trees as possible. Armed
with these missiles, they approached their
enemy as nearly as they dared, and hurled
them with great violence and effect at his
head and body; the snake, after making an
ineffectual attempt to seize upon the foremost,
at last turned about quickly and retreated
into his hole — a miniature cavern of rock,
situated beneath the sleeping apartments of
the monkeys.
The outraged community appeared deter
mined to avenge the slaughter of their com
panion, but knew not how it was to be done.
Their enemy seemed retired beyond reach, and
with the best will in the world to follow him
and brave it out, the attempt to enter his
den would be certain destruction. After a
renewed debate, and much chattering and
leaping about, a few of the leaders armed

156 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
themselves with clubs and sticks of a still
larger size, from the loose wood abounding
in the forest. With these weapons they once
more approached the rocky projection, still
keeping a respectful distance from the en
trance, and began to beat upon the stones
on the surface, with the intention of frighten
ing the serpent from his hiding-place. They
ran to and fro screeching, making the wood
resound with their blows; threw stones into
the mouth of the hole; but all would not
do : the more energetic the means adopted, the
firmer seemed the resolve of the besieged to
remain in garrison.
At length, with a degree of sagacity almost
incredible in "the inferior animals," but not
by any means remarkable in monkeys, their
tactics underwent a change. A monkey of
large size and peculiarly knowing physio
gnomy, separated himself from his companions,
and placed his body in an unconscious and
inviting manner in front of the hollow, at
the space of a few yards from the entrance.
His comrades meanwhile retreated to a little
distance, and awaited the issue of the man
oeuvre which was to tempt their adversary
from his quarters. The position of the adven-

A NEW MANOEUVRE. 157
turer seemed a perilous one ; but, despite his
apparent unconcern, he kept a sharp eye upon
the den, and was ready to make a nimble
retreat when his purpose should be effected.
In this posture all parties remained for some
time ; the monkeys maintaining a profound
silence, and the hissing noise being kept up
incessantly within the cave — yet no forked
tongue or shining eyes could be tempted
to reveal themselves. Then the venturous
animal rose from his unassuming attitude and
came yet nearer to the hollow, shrieking and
leaping this time, to attract the attention of
the recluse ; the hissing continued, but still
the retired monster kept close within his
lair. The determination of the invaders, never
theless, appeared only more excited by their
want of success ; and to draw out the despoiler
from his den, with safety to themselves, was
a task well suited to their meddlesome and
vivacious dispositions ; so, as a last resource,
they summoned their whole forces — claiming
the assistance of their friends and neighbours,
who had by this time assembled from all
quarters — to eject him in the most summary
manner. They nimbly, but with the utmost

158 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
caution, removed all the outside stones and
pieces of rock one by one, bringing their
united strength to lift the more weighty frag
ments, till all were cleared away; the pro
jecting rock was not a large one, but much
remained to be done. They broke away the
loose pieces about the entrance, so that the
avenue was considerably widened; they then
collected fragments of rock to assist them in
breaking off others ; the aperture grew wider,
and at last they began to discern the brilliant
coils and shining eyes of the serpent at the
extremity of the den. Hurling some stones
violently against him, they succeeded in forc
ing him from his retreat in a rage ; and he was
no sooner fully exposed to view, than a hundred
stones and pieces of rock of a large size were
dashed upon him; he wavered for one moment
in the attempt to return, and in the next, his
head was so crushed and beaten in as to render
him utterly helpless and at their mercy. They
then despatched him amid loud screams of
exultation ; appearing to take a great delight
in seeing him quiver beneath them, and in
imprinting their paws upon his beautiful skin
from time to time.
" My only wonder was," added the narrator

THE MONKEYS VICTORIOUS. 159
of the anecdote, " that they did not carry out
the joke by lighting a fire, broiling him over
it, and making a joyous repast upon the re
mains of their recent enemy."

160 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

CHAPTER XXXV.
ANCIENT AZTEC TEMPLES AND WORSHIP.
Manner of addressing priests. — Formation of lengthy
Aztec words. — Temples and idols. — Great temple of
Teocalli, its square wall, gates, and threshold gods. — Ini
tiatory chapel and its accessories. — Square for religious
dances. — Dimensions of temple. — Steps and balustrade
of different stories. — Platform and holy towers. — Vessels
for sacred fire. — Minor chapels. — Religious sacrifices. —
Gods of providence and war. — Colossal female idol. —
Ancient worship.
The Aztecs, or ancient Mexicans, habitually
addressed their officiating priests thus : —
"Natlazomahuiztespixcatatzin."
This, strange to say, is only a single Aztec
word, complete and undivided; which, trans
lated into an English sentence, would sig
nify, " Venerable -priest -whom- 1 -cherish -as -
my-father." Excessively long words, of similar construc
tion, are characteristic of the ancient Mexican
tongue ; they are not compounded, as is the

LENGTHY AZTEC WORDS. 161
case in other languages, but their peculiarities
often depend on the manner of forming the
plural number ; sometimes the first syllable is
doubled for this purpose, as "miztli," plural
" mimiztin ; " and occasionally the repetition
occurs in the middle of a word, as "ich-
pochtli," plural " ichpopochtin." Words of this
strang'ely comprehensive formation, have been
found to include even thirty and two-and-thirty
letters. " Amatlacuilolitquitcatlaxtlahuilli,"
signifying, " The-reward-given-to-the-messen-
ger-who-carries-a-paper - on-which-is- painted-
tidings." This is a single, undivided word, and
contains thirty -three letters — the former ex
ample, given above, being composed of no fewer
than twenty-seven.
The subject of the Aztec, or Nahuatl, reli
gion, their gods, and the practice of offering
human sacrifices, have been briefly described
in a former chapter; but a more minute
account of the principal temples and idols
formerly existing, compiled from several an
cient authorities, may not be inappropriate.
The great temple of Teocalli, or Mexith
(from which the city of Mexico derived its
name), was at first a humble cabin built of
mud and hardened clay ; but by the munifi-
VOL. II. M

162 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
cence of successive Aztec kings, it at length
became the richest and most extensive build
ing in ancient America. It occupied the
centre of the city, and was surrounded by a
vast, high wall, of great thickness, built of
stone, in the form of a square, and wrought
on the outside with knots of serpents inter
twisted. The four sides of the square had
as many gates, opening to the four quarters
of the heavens; over each gate was a stone
figure with outstretched arms: these were
threshold gods, for the adoration of devotees
on their entrance. Above each gate was, also,
a building supplied with warlike implements,
where the troops of the city retired on emer
gency ; and on the inside of the walls were the
habitations of the priests and attendants on the
temple. Near one of the gates was an initiatory
chapel of stone, with thirty steps leading up
to a flat roof; round this building rows of
trees were planted, through holes in which were
thrust bars, forming a continuous line, which
were perpetually strung with the heads of
victims sacrificed. The priests carefully kept
an account of these ghastly trophies, and
renewed them from time to time, as they fell

ARCHITECTURE OF THE TEMPLE. 163
away from decay. Between the square wall
and the temple, there was room for from eight
to ten thousand persons, who assembled and
danced upon the solemn feast-days and spec
tacles ; the space being paved with smoothly-
polished stones, joined by white and red
cement. The temple itself stood in the midst of the
space enclosed, and was built in the form of
a truncated pyramid, 378 feet square at its base ;
its flat roof was nearly 120 feet high, but the
altitude of its highest towers was nearly 170
feet : seen from a distance it had the appearance
of an enormous cube, with small altars and
wooden cupolas on its top. The materials
employed in its erection were clay and stones,
faced with a porous stone resembling pumice-
stone,, but hard and smoothly polished ; while,
for the upper facings, pavements, and orna
mental parts, coloured jasper stones of great
value were used : which, with the red and white
cement, had a rich and beautiful effect.
The building consisted of five stories shewn
externally (the eastern pyramids had five
floors internally) ; each, from the base up
wards, being less by six feet all round than the
one below it ; and upon each story there was

164 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
a flat open gallery, on which three or four men
could walk abreast. On three sides of the
building, every story was plain ; but on each
of the different stories on the south side was
ranged a flight of steps — not a single con
tinued staircase, but five, running from gallery
to gallery ; so that, on arriving at the top of
the first flight, it was necessary to go all round
before ascending the second ; and thus with all
the remainder. The balustrade rails of these
steps were of a serpentine form, adorned with
polished stones; while at intervals statues
were stationed, supporting candelabra of a
fantastic shape in their hands.
Upon the fifth and last story, there was a
platform nearly two hundred and thirty feet
square, finely paved with polished stones ; at
one end of which, was the green " Stone of
Sacrifices," containing a hollow in which human
victims were laid, while the priests opened their
breasts and took out their hearts for offerings.
In the eastern extremity of the platform, two
towers were erected fifty-six feet high, each
consisting of three stories; the lower one
being built of stone, and the other two of
wood : of these the lower story was properly
devoted to the sanctuaries, which were of

SANCTUARIES FOR SACRED FIRE. 165
exquisite materials and workmanship, and
where the tutelary idols were placed, upon
stones five feet high. The other two stories of
these towers were used to preserve the neces
sary utensils for the worship of the idols ; and
also the ashes of the kings and principal chiefs
deposited there, from a feeling* of superstitious
devotion. The doors of all these apartments
were placed towards the west ; and the two
towers were surmounted by beautiful wooden
cupolas, elaborately carved and ornamented.
Beneath the upper platform was an altar
for the "sacrifice of gladiators," or fighting
men. Before the two sanctuaries were two
stone vessels, about the height of a man, in
which the sacred fire was constantly preserved
with the utmost care ; for it was believed that
the greatest calamities would occur if it should
ever happen to be extinguished : these vessels
were seldom approached without being sprin
kled with human blood. In the other temples
and sacred edifices comprised within the pre
cincts ofthe external wall, there were six hun
dred vessels of the same size and form ; which
at night, when the whole were kindled, pre
sented a most attractive and brilliant spec
tacle.

166 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
There were also a number of minor chapels,
or temples; some devoted to the worship of
gods of Fire, Air, Earth, and Water, of the
Sun and Night, and of Peace and War. A
temple erected to the god ofthe Sun was parti
cularly splendid : the walls were adorned with
golden ornaments, and in the centre of the
principal compartment of the building, was a
golden image of the luminary, surrounded
with rays. The gates of this temple were
beautifully ornamented with jasper and co
loured woods : separate apartments for the
priests being also contained within its walls.
The religious rites associated with these
temples were horrible in the extreme : the gods
were represented by the priests as delighting
in offerings of vengeance and blood, and the
deluded multitudes were daily familiarized to
the sight of the most shocking atrocities.
Superstitious dread appears to have been the
source of all religious feeling at this period ;
and even the decorations of temples and other
public buildings — consisting of serpents, tigers,
and hideous nondescripts — were eminently
calculated to inspire terror. Human sacrifices
were considered to be the most expiatory for
sin, and the most acceptable to the gods : some-

SACRIFICIAL RITES. 167
times the blood alone of the wretched victims
would be offered on their altars; at others,
their hearts were extracted and placed in the
idols' mouths, as favourite morsels ; and often
entire human bodies were burned, as incense,
on the stone altars, amidst loud acclamations.
Captives, taken in war, were likewise devoted
to the worship of the gods; their heads and
hearts were the portions selected for sacrifice,
the remainder of their bodies being either
burned to ashes, or roasted and devoured by
their conquerors. The skulls of all human
sacrificial victims were carefully preserved,
either in mounds or buildings ; and so great
was their number, that two of the officers of
Cortez are said to have counted as many as
136,000 in the principal building kept for the
purpose. The Aztec god of Providence was called
Tezcatlipoca -. him they considered the creator
of heaven and earth, the soul of the world
and the lord of all things. This idol occupied
a beautiful chapel lined with curtains, behind
which it was placed on a high altar, sitting on
a chair, or throne, mounted on a blue globe, to
typify heaven . From the sides of the globe pro
jected four rods, carved to represent serpents ;

168 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
the heads of which the priests placed on their
shoulders when they exposed the idol to public
adoration. The countenance of Tezcatlipoca
was stern and horrible; its expression being
heightened by two blue hands encircling the
forehead and nose ; and on its head was a helm
composed of plumes of various colours, in the
form of a bird, with a bill and crest of bur
nished gold.
This idol also held in its right hand a curling
serpent, which served for a staff; and in the
left, four arrows, which were venerated as a
present from Heaven, together with a shield
having five white plumes placed over it in the
form of a cross. Concerning these ensigns
and ornaments many remarkable extravagances
were reported and believed — how they had been
received direct from the hands of the gods them
selves, and how they were endowed with super
natural powers.
To the left of the temple of Tezcatlipoca
was another of the same form and size, likewise
filled with ornaments of inestimable value ; the
walls being hung and the altars covered with
jewels and precious stones, placed on feathers
of various colours. This temple was dedicated
to Huitzilapochtli, or Tlaloch, the god of war.

A COLOSSAL FEMALE IDOL. 169
These two principal gods— of Providence and
Battle — were esteemed brothers ; and nothing
was presumed to transpire without their mutual
knowledge and approbation. The prayers and
offerings of the priests were, as nearly as pos
sible, equally divided between these two deities;
not forgetting, also, a multitude of minor
gods inhabiting separate temples, of peculiar,
though somewhat conflicting, powers and at
tributes. The goddess Teoyamiqui was a horrible co
lossal figure, hewn out of a solid block of basalt,
nine feet high. It was a monstrous combina
tion of the human form, the tiger, and the
rattlesnake : large wreathed serpents supplied
the place of arms to the figure ; its feet were
those of a tiger, with claws extended, in the
act of seizing its prey ; and between them lay
the head of a rattlesnake, which appeared to
descend from the body of the idol. Its adorn
ments accorded with its frightful exterior : a
large necklace composed of human hearts,
hands, and skulls, was worn around it, fastened
together with entrails, leaving the deformed
breasts of the goddess only uncovered; and
its drapery was composed of wreathed snakes
with open mouths, interwoven in a horrible

170 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
manner, the sides of the covering terminating
in the wings of a vulture. Both the idol and
the accessories forming its dress, were painted
to represent natural colours, which greatly en
hanced the impressive and terrific effect it was
designed to have upon its worshippers.
The ancient city of Mexico could boast of
eight large temples of splendid workmanship
and great wealth; and those of a smaller size are
said to have amounted to two thousand, and
were dedicated to as many idols, of different
kinds. The public streets were named after
the various tutelar deities ; and calamities and
diseases of opposite natures had each their
specified altars, at which the afflicted were
directed to prostrate themselves with tortures
and penances.
The religious and social institutions of the
ancient Mexicans were thus founded in fear
and horror ; and to abolish atrocities such as
those alluded to, in any country, by benevolent
missions and intercommunications, must ever
be regarded a blessing and a privilege.

PRESENT CONSTITUTION. 171

CHAPTER XXXVI.
MEXICAN GOVERNMENT AND CONSTITUTION.
A troubled period. — Present constitution. — Privileges of
citizens. — Legislative power. — Qualifications of pre
sident. — Government council. — Judicial power. — Elec
tions. — Events prior and subsequent to formation of
this constitution.
The present political organization of the Mexi
can republic is founded, for the most part, on
the constitution of the United States of
America. The restlessness, outbreaks, pro
clamations, and discontents, which have been
suffered by the country while moulding state
affairs into their present shape, are unparalleled
for their number and bitterness, within a similar
period, in the history of any country in the
world. The constitution which has latterly prevailed
with little alteration, was proclaimed by a junta,
headed by Santa Anna, on the 13th of June,
1843. The document then drawn up declares
the political power to reside essentially in the

172 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
nation ; that the country adopts the form of a
popular representative system for its govern
ment ; that the republic shall be divided into
departments for representation ; that the Holy
Boman Catholic and Apostolic faith is pro
fessed and protected, to the exclusion of all
others; that slavery is not to be permitted;
that no one is to be called upon to pay ille
gal contributions ; and that nobody shall be
molested on account of his political opinions.
It is especially distinct on the subject of
Mexican citizenship, its privileges and obliga
tions. All persons born of Mexican parents;
those who did not renounce their allegiance at
the revolution ; natives of bygone Mexican
territories, who have since resided in the re
public ; and persons who have procured, or
shall procure, letters of naturalization — are
deemed citizens. The citizen's right of voting
for representatives cannot be possessed by the
married before they are eighteen years old,
nor by the unmarried before the age of twenty-
one ; they must also have an annual income
of not less than 200 dollars, derived from real
capital, property, or honest industry ; and it is
proposed, also, that they shall be able to read
and write. Habitual intemperance, religious

LEGISLATIVE POWER. 173
vows, domestic servitude, and fraudulent bank
ruptcy, are among the disqualifications from
these rights.
The legislative power resides in a chamber
of deputies and a senate, forming a congress ;
the former composed of individuals elected
by the different departments. A deputy must
be over thirty years of age, and be possessed
of an annual income of 1,200 dollars ; and a
division of this class is to be renewed every
two years. Senators must possess an income
of 2,000 dollars : the senate consisting of
persons belonging to the classes of merchants,
manufacturers, proprietors, miners, and agri
culturists ; and of individuals eminent in civil,
military, or ecclesiastical professions: they must
be chosen by the departments, and appointed
by the president and council. A third of the
senate must also be renewed every second year.
A permanent deputation, too, is created by
the congress, whose duty it is to call sup
plementary sessions when required by go
vernment, and to accept the certificates of
the various officers appointed by the nation.
The regular sessions of congress are held
twice a year — meeting in January and July,
and sitting for the period of three months.

174 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
A president is at the head of the execu
tive power : he must be a Mexican by birth,
a resident in the republic, more than forty
years of age, and in full possession of all the
rights of citizenship. The duties of the pre
sident are to support and vindicate the laws,
and impose fines on those who disobey his law
ful orders ; to obtain all necessary information
respecting courts of justice, and visit them in
person when required ; to consider all projects of
laws approved by the chambers, and suspend
their operations during such time: — if, how
ever, thirty days pass by without any objection
being urged by the president, the law will be
considered sanctioned, and carried into effect
without further delay. The president has
further power to declare war, and may dispose
of the armed forces of the republic; and he
has also the right to expel all foreigners from
the country who may be deemed dangerous to
the State.
The government council is composed of
persons permanently selected by the president,
and its functions are to aid the executive in
its deliberations ; it may also originate and
suggest measures for the public good, inde
pendently.

MODE OF ELECTION. 175
The judicial power of the country rests in a
supreme court, in departmental tribunals, and
in other courts previously existing. A per
petual military court-martial is to be selected
by the president.
Each department of the republic has a local
assembly, subject to the supervision of a go
vernor, also chosen by the president.
For the purposes of election, the popula
tion of the country is divided into sections of
five hundred inhabitants each, for the election
of primary juntas ; the citizens voting, by
ticket, for one elector to every such section of
five hundred. These primary electors name the
parties composing the electoral college — one
secondary elector to twenty of the primary.
The electoral college elects the deputies to
congress ; and its members must have an in
come of not less than 500 dollars per annum.
In the November of the year before the ex
piration of the president's term of office, each
departmental assembly, by a majority of votes
— or, in the event of equal numbers, by lot —
take part in selecting the president for the
succeeding five years.
From the first proclamation of a federal
constitution in October 1824, to the issue of

176 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
the document just described, a series of the
most singular proceedings and demonstra
tions took place in different parts of Mexico.
The first federal congress met in January
1825, under President Victoria. Bebellions
and pronunciamientos soon followed the open
ing. Some innovators declared that no
Spaniard should be allowed to take any
public office whatsoever ; others railed at the
federation ; others scouted the centralizing
system. Blood was freely spilt, and insur
rections became frequent. Some presidents
and officials were imprisoned, others were
exiled, a few were executed.
In the first year of Santa Anna's pre
sidency (1833), a pronunciamiento was issued
in favour of the church and army ; but was
summarily subdued by him at Guanajuato.
Two or three other declarations followed in
as many succeeding years— when a pronuncia
miento was produced known as the " Plan
of Toluca." Santa Anna then fled to Texas,
and was captured there ; and Barringon,
and Coro, and Bustamente, successively be
came presidents. Next uprose Mexia with
a large army ; but at Puebla he was
defeated, taken, and shot by his opponent

RECENT EVENTS. 177
Santa Anna. Then followed a grand pro
nunciamiento of the federalists under Urrea,
in 1840 ; which was suppressed by Valencia.
In 1841, succeeded a whole posse of pro
nunciamientos, a civil war, a bombardment
of the capital, conflicts among the soldiery,
the downfall of Bustamente, the elevation of
Santa Anna, and the " Plan of Tacubaya" ;
and in 1843, as I have said — after several
attempts to reconcile conflicting systems —
the basis of political organization, nearly as
it now stands, was declared by Santa Anna
and his junta.
Since that period, Santa Anna has been
banished, as everybody knows; pronuncia
mientos and insurrections have again flourished;
a war with the United States has been begun
and ended ; Texas has been annexed ; and
other presidents have been elected, upon the
principles which I have, on the best authority,
endeavoured to describe in these few pages.

VOL. II. N

178 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

CHAPTER XXXVII.
COMMERCIAL TREATY WITH GREAT BRITAIN.
Articles of amity and commerce. — Ships of war and
post-office packets. — Importation duties. — Tonnage and
pilotage. — Regulations for vessels and prizes. — Pass
ports. — Personal liberty. — Property and estates. — Un
lading of goods. — Resident consuls. — Safe-conduct. —
Religion. — Former convention. — Abolition of the slave-
trade. — Additional articles for the benefit of Mexican
commerce.
Before alluding to the Mexican commerce,
it may be well to furnish a copy of the
amicable treaty between Great Britain and
the Bepublic, drawn up and signed in the
year 1826 ; especially as the principal points
of the arrangements specified have undergone
no material changes since that period, and the
existence of the commercial treaty is better
known than its guarantees.
Article I.
There shall be perpetual amity between the
dominions and subjects of his Majesty the

PROTECTION FOR COMMERCE. 179
King of the United Kingdom of Great Bri
tain and Ireland, and the United States of
Mexico and their citizens.
Article II.
There shall be, between all the territories
of his Britannic Majesty in Europe, and the
territories of Mexico, a reciprocal freedom of
commerce. The inhabitants of the two coun
tries, respectively, shall have liberty freely
and securely to come, with their ships and
cargoes, to all places, ports, and rivers, in the
territories aforesaid, saving only such parti
cular ports to which other foreigners shall not
be permitted to come, to enter into the same,
and to remain and reside in any part of
the said territories respectively; also to hire
and occupy houses and warehouses for the
purposes of their commerce ; and, generally,
the merchants and traders of each nation,
respectively, shall enjoy the most complete
protection and security for their commerce.
In like manner, the respective ships of war,
and post-office packets, of the two countries,
shall have liberty freely and securely to come
to all harbours, rivers, and places, saving only
such particular ports (if any) to which other

180 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
foreign ships of war and packets shall not be
permitted to come, to enter into the same, to
anchor, and to remain there and refit : subject
always to the laws and statutes of the two
countries respectively.
By the right of entering the places, ports,
and rivers mentioned in tbis article, the privi
lege of carrying on the coasting trade is not
understood ; in which national vessels only are
permitted to engage. Article III.
His Majesty the King of the United King
dom of Great Britain and Ireland, engages
further, that the inhabitants of Mexico shall
have the like liberty of commerce and naviga
tion stipulated for in the preceding article, in
all his dominions situated out of Europe, to
the full extent in which the same is permitted
at present, or shall be permitted hereafter, to
any other nation. Article IV.
No higher or other duties shall be imposed
on the importation into the dominions of his
Britannic Majesty, of any article of the
growth, produce, or manufacture of Mexico;

IMPORT AND EXPORT DUTIES. 181
and no other or higher duties shall be im
posed on the importation into the territories
of Mexico, of any articles of the growth,
produce, or manufacture of his Britannic
Majesty's dominions, than are or shall be
payable on the like articles, being the growth,
produce, or manufacture of any foreign coun
try ; nor shall any other or higher duties or
charges be imposed in the territories or do
minions of either of the contracting parties,
on the exportation of any articles to the
territories of the other, than such as are or
may be payable on the exportation of the like
articles to any other foreign country ; nor
shall any prohibition be imposed upon the
exportation of any articles the growth, pro
duce, or manufacture of his Britannic Ma
jesty's dominions, or of the said territories of
Mexico, to or from the said dominions of his
Britannic Majesty, or to or from the said
territories of Mexico, which shall not equally
extend to other nations. Article V.
No higher or other duties or charges on
account of tonnage, light or harbour dues,
pilotagej salvage in case of damage or ship-

182 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
wreck, or any other local charges, shall be
imposed in any of the ports of Mexico on
British vessels, than those payable in the
same ports by Mexican vessels, nor in the
ports of his Britannic Majesty's territories on
Mexican vessels, than shall be payable in the
same ports on British vessels.
Article VI.
The same duties shall be paid on the impor
tation into the territories of Mexico of any
article the growth, produce, or manufacture of
his Britannic Majesty's dominions, whether
such importation shall be in Mexican or in
British vessels ; and the same duties shall be
paid on the importation into the dominions
of his Britannic Majesty, of any article the
growth, produce, or manufacture of Mexico,
whether such importation shall be in British
or in Mexican vessels. The same duties shall
be paid, and the same bounties and drawbacks
allowed, on the exportation to Mexico of any
articles of the growth, produce, or manufac
ture of his Britannic Majesty's dominions,
whether such exportation shall be in Mexican
or in British vessels ; and the same duties shall
be paid, and the same drawbacks and bounties

REGULATIONS FOR VESSELS. 183
allowed, on the exportation of any articles the
growth, produce, or manufacture of Mexico,
to his Britannic Majesty's dominions, whether
such exportation shall be in British or in
Mexican vessels. .
Article VII.
In order to avoid any misunderstanding
with respect to the regulations which may
respectively constitute a British or a Mexican
vessel, it is hereby agreed that all vessels built
in the dominions of his Britannic Majesty, or
vessels which shall have been captured from
an enemy by his Britannic Majesty's ships of
war, or by the subjects of his said Majesty,
furnished with letters of mark by the Lords
Commissioners of the Admiralty, and regularly
condemned in one of his said Majesty's prize
courts as a lawful prize, or which shall have
been condemned in any competent court from
the breach of the laws made for the prevention
of the slave-trade, and owned, navigated, and
registered according to the laws of Great
Britain, shall be considered as British vessels :
and that of all vessels built in the territories of
Mexico, or captured from the enemy by the
ships of Mexico, and condemned under similar

184 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
circumstances, and which shall be owned by
any citizen or citizens thereof, and whereof the
master and three-fourths of the mariners are
citizens of Mexico, excepting where the laws
provide for any extreme cases, shall be con
sidered as Mexican vessels.
And it is further agreed, that every vessel
qualified to trade, as above described, under
the provisions of this treaty shall be furnished
with a register, passport, or sea-letter, under
the signature of the proper person authorized
to grant the same, according to the laws of the
respective countries (the form of which shall
be communicated), certifying the name, occu
pation, and residence of the owner or owners,
in the dominions of his Britannic Majesty, or
in the territories of Mexico, as the case may
be ; together with the name, burden, and
description of the vessel as to build and mea
surement, and the several particulars consti
tuting* the national character of the vessel, as
the case may be.
Article VIII.
All merchants, commanders of shipping, and
others the subjects of his Britannic Majesty,
shall have full liberty, in all the territories of

PERSONAL LIBERTY. 185
Mexico, to manage their own affairs them
selves, or to commit them to the management
of whomsoever they please, as broker, factor,
agent, or interpreter; nor shall they be ob
liged to employ any other persons for those
purposes than those employed by Mexicans,
nor to pay them any other salary or remune
ration than such as is paid, in like cases, by
Mexican citizens ; and absolute freedom shall
be allowed, in all cases, to the buyer and
seller to bargain and fix the price of any
goods, wares, or merchandise, imported into
or exported from Mexico, as they shall see
good, observing the laws and established cus
toms of the country. The same privileges
shall be enjoyed in the dominions of his
Britannic Majesty by the citizens of Mexico,
under the same conditions.
The citizens and subjects of the contracting
parties, in the territories of each other, shall
receive and enjoy full and perfect protection
for their persons and property, and shall have
free and open access to the courts of justice in
the said countries, respectively, for the prose
cution and defence of their just rights ; and
they shall be at liberty to employ, in all
causes, the advocates, attorneys, or agents of

186 pictures of life in Mexico.
whatever description, whom they may think
proper; and they shall enjoy, in this respect,
the same rights and privileges therein as
native citizens. Article IX.
In whatever relates to the succession to
personal estates, by will or otherwise, and the
disposal of personal property of every sort and
denomination, by sale, donation, exchange, or
testament, or in any other manner whatsoever,
as also the administration of justice, the sub
jects and citizens of the two contracting parties
shall enjoy, in their respective dominions and
territories, the same privileges, liberties, and
rights, as native subjects; and shall not be
charged, in any of these respects, with any
higher imposts or duties than those which are
paid, or may be paid, by the native subjects
or citizens of the power in whose dominions or
territories they may be resident.
Article X.
In all that relates to the police of the
ports, the lading and unlading of ships, the
safety of merchandize, goods, and effects, the

RESIDENT CONSULS. 187
subjects of his Britannic Majesty and the
citizens of Mexico, respectively, shall be sub
ject to the local laws and regulations of the
dominions and territories in which they may
reside. They shall be exempted from all com
pulsory military service, whether by sea or
land. No forced loans shall be levied upon
them; nor shall their property be subject to
any other charges, requisitions, or taxes, than
such as are paid by the native subjects or
citizens of the contracting parties in their re
spective dominions. Article XI.
It shall be free for each of the two con
tracting parties to appoint consuls, for the
protection of trade, to reside in the dominions
and territories of the other party ; but before
any consul shall act as such, he shall, in the
usual form, be approved and admitted by the
government to which he is sent ; and either of
the contracting parties may except from the
residence of consuls, such particular places as
either of them may judge fit to be excepted.
The Mexican diplomatic agents and consuls
shall enjoy, in the dominions of his Britannic
Majesty, whatever privileges, exceptions, and

188 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
immunities are or shall be granted to agents
of the same rank belonging to the most fa
voured nation ; and in like manner the diplo
matic agents and consuls of his Britannic
Majesty in the Mexican territories shall enjoy,
according to the strictest reciprocity, whatever
privileges, exceptions, and immunities are or
may be granted to the Mexican diplomatic
agents and consuls in the dominions of his
Britannic Majesty. Article XII.
For the better security of commerce between
the subjects of his Britannic Majesty and the
citizens of the Mexican States, it is agreed that
if, at any time, any interruption of friendly in
tercourse, or any rupture should unfortunately
take place between the two contracting parties,
the merchants residing upon the coasts shall
be allowed six months, and those of the interior
a whole year, to wind up their accounts and
dispose of their property; and that a safe
conduct shall be given them to embark at the
port which they shall themselves select. All
those who are established in the respective do
minions and territories of the two contracting
parties, in the exercise of any trade or special

religious freedom. 189
employment, shall have the privilege of remain
ing and continuing such trade and employment
therein, without any manner of interruption,
in full enjoyment of their liberty and property,
so long as they behave peaceably, and commit
no offence against the laws ; and their goods
and effects, of whatever description they may
be, shall not be liable to seizure or sequestra
tion, or to any other charges or demands than
those which may be made upon the like effects
or property belonging to the native subjects
and citizens of the respective dominions or
territories in which such subjects or citizens
may reside. In the same case, debts between
individuals, public funds, and the shares of
companies, shall never be confiscated, seques
trated, or detained. Article XIII.
The subjects of his Britannic Majesty re
siding in the Mexican territories shall enjoy,
in their houses, persons, and properties, the
protection of the government ; and continuing
in possession of what they now enjoy, they
shall not be disturbed, molested, or annoyed in
any manner, on account of their religion, pro
vided they respect that of the nation in which

190 PICTURES of LIFE IN MEXICO.
they reside, as well as the constitution, laws,
and customs of the country. They shall con
tinue to enjoy to the full the privilege already
granted to them, of burying in the places
already assigned to that purpose, such subjects
of his Britannic Majesty as may die in the
Mexican territories ; nor shall the funerals and
sepulchres of the dead be disturbed in any way,
or upon any account. The citizens of Mexico
shall enjoy, in all the dominions of his Bri
tannic Majesty, the same protection, and shall
be allowed the free exercise of their religion,
in public or private, either within their own
houses, or in the chapels and places of worship
set apart for that purpose.
Article XIV.
The subjects of his Britannic Majesty shall
on no account or pretext whatsoever be dis
turbed or molested in the peaceable possession
and exercise of whatever rights, privileges,
and immunities they have at any time enjoyed
within the limits described and laid down in
a convention signed between his said Majesty
and the King of Spain, on the 14th of July
1786 ; whether such rights, privileges, and im
munities shall be derived from the stipulations

ABOLITION OF THE SLAVE-TRADE. 191
of the said convention, or from any other con
cession which may at any time have been made
by the King of Spain, or his predecessors, to
British subjects and settlers residing and fol
lowing their lawful occupations within the
limits aforesaid ; the two contracting parties
reserving, however, for some more fitting op
portunity, the further arrangements of this
article. Article XV-
The government of Mexico engages to co
operate with his Britannic Majesty for the
total abolition of the slave-trade ; and to pro
hibit all persons inhabiting within the terri
tories of Mexico, in the most effectual manner,
from taking any share in such trade.
Article XVI.
The two contracting parties reserve to them
selves the right of treating and agreeing here
after, from time to time, upon such other
articles as may appear to them to contribute
still further to the improvement of their
mutual intercourse, and the advancement of
the general interests of their respective sub
jects and citizens : and such articles as may

192 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
be so agreed upon shall, when duly ratified, be
regarded as forming a part of the present
treaty, and shall have the same force as those
now contained in it.
Article XVII.
The present treaty shall be ratified, and the
ratifications shall be exchanged at London,
within the space of six months, or sooner, if
possible. In witness whereof, the respective plenipo
tentiaries have signed the same, and have
affixed thereto their respective seals.
Done at London, the twenty-sixth day of
December, in the year of our Lord one thou
sand eight hundred and twenty-six.
(L.S.) William Huskisson.
(L.S.) James L. Morier.

ADDITIONAL ARTICLES.
Article I.
Whereas, in the present state of Mexican
shipping, it would not be possible for Mexico
to receive the full advantage of the reciprocity
established by the Articles V., VI., VII., of

MEXICAN SHIPS. 193
the treaty signed this day, if that part of the
Vllth Article which stipulates, that in order to
be considered as a Mexican ship, a ship shall
actually have been built in Mexico, should be
strictly and literally observed, and immediately
brought into operation — it is agreed that, for
the space of ten years, to be reckoned from
the date of the exchange of the ratifications
of this treaty, any ships, wheresoever built,
being bond fide the property of, and wholly
owned by, one or more citizens of Mexico, and
whereof the master, and three-fourths of the
mariners at least, are also natural-born
citizens of Mexico, or persons domiciliated in
Mexico by act of the government, as lawful
subjects of Mexico to be certified according to
the laws of that country, shall be considered as
Mexican ships ; his Majesty the King of the
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ire
land reserving to himself the right, at the end
of the said term of ten years, to claim the
principle of reciprocal restrictions stipulated
for in Article VII. above referred to, if the
interests of British navigation shall be found
to be prejudiced by the present exception to
that reciprocity in favour of Mexican ship
ping. VOL. II. 0

194 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
Article II.
It is further agreed that, for the like
term of ten years, the stipulations contained in
Articles V. and VI. ofthe present treaty, shall
be suspended ; and in lieu thereof, it is hereby
agreed that, until the expiration of the said
term of ten years, British ships entering into
the ports of Mexico from the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, or any of his
Britannic Majesty's dominions, and all articles
the growth, produce, and manufacture of the
United Kingdom, or of any of the said domi
nions, imported in such ships, shall pay no other
or higher duties than are or may hereafter be
payable, in the said ports, by the ships, and
the like goods, the growth, produce, or manu
facture of the most favoured nation; and,
reciprocally, it is agreed that Mexican ships
entering into the ports of the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, or any other of
his Britannic Majesty's dominions, from any
port of the states of Mexico ; and all articles
the growth, produce, or manufacture of the
said states, imported in such ships, shall pay no
other or higher duties than are or may hereafter
be payable, in the said ports, by the ships and

TEMPORARY EXEMPTIONS. 195
the like goods, the growth, produce, or manu
facture of the most favoured nation ; and that
no higher duties shall be paid, or bounties or
drawbacks allowed, on the exportation of any
article the growth, produce, or manufacture,
of the dominions of either country, in the ships
ofthe other, than upon the exportation of their
like articles in the ships of any other foreign
country. It being understood that, at the end of the
said term of ten years, the stipulations of the
said Vth and VI th Articles shall, from thence
forward, be in full force between the two
countries. The present additional articles shall have
the same force and validity as if they were
inserted, word for word, in the treaty signed
this day. They shall be ratified, and the rati
fications shall be exchanged at the same time.

196 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

CHAPTER XXXVIII.
COMMERCE OF MEXICO.
Causes of its decline. — Revenues. — Imports and exports.
— Average commercial returns for one year from Vera
Cruz, Tampico, Matamoras, San Bias, and Mazatlan. —
Statement of charges on foreign shipping. — Example
of tonnage duty.
The commerce of this country has been de
creasing for the last twenty years — a result
attributable to continual revolutionary dis
turbances, the decrease of the wealth of the
people, and the pecuniary embarrassments to
which most of the inhabitants have been sub
jected, by the non-payment of government
loans, and by unfortunate investments.
In 1832 and 1833, the revenue of the custom
house amounted to about 12,000,000 dollars,
per annum ; in 1839, on account of the French
blockade, it fell to nearly 3,000,000 dollars; in
1840, it rose again to 7,000,000 dollars; and

CUSTOM-HOUSE REVENUE. 197
in the following year fell to little more than
5,000,000, which is about its present average.
This sum may be divided among the different
ports as follows : —
Dollars.
Vera Cruz . . . 3,329,802
Tampico . . . 883,039
Matamoras . . . 312,403
Mazatlan . . . 383,159
Guyamas . . . 55,814
Monterey . . . 96,853
Acapulco . . . 17,182
San Bias . . . 208,845

5,287,097

This corresponds to about 12,300,000 dollars'
value of importation annually, divided (accord
ing to an estimate) in the following manner : —

Dollars.

From England
„ France

4,500,000
3,000,000

„ Hamburgh
„ China

1,500,000
1,000,000

„ United States .

800,000

„ Spain
„ Genoa, and other ports .

500,000
1,000,000

12,300,000
The expense to the government, for the col
lection of this revenue, is about 348,290 dollars.

198 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
These statements are exclusive of the contra
band trade from the United States by Santa
Fe, and by the English and Americans on
the sea-coasts.
The exports from the whole republic (chiefly
its own productions) may be rated as follows : —
Exports.
Dollars.
Specie, through Vera Cruz . . 4,000,000
„ „ Mazatlan and San Bias 2,500,000
Silver and gold, through other ports . 5,000,000
Silver, through Tampico . . 7,000,000
Cochineal, jalap, vanilla, sarsaparilla, and hides 1,000,000
Sundries ..... 500,000

CD Ol

Total . 20,000,000
From this estimate, about 18,500,000 dollars
in the precious metals are exported annually
from Mexico. The mines produce nearly
22,000,000 dollars of silver, of which it is
calculated that 12,000,000 are coined in the
seven mints of the republic per annum.
There is a difference of about 8,000,000
dollars between the imports and exports — a
large proportion — all which is estimated to be
covered by smuggling.

COMMERCIAL RETURN.

199

The following is an Average Gross Return of
British and Foreign Trade, at the Port of
Vera Cruz, for one Year : —

arrived.

Nations.

Vessels. Tons.

Crews.

Invoice value
of cargoes in
pounds sterling.

English ...
Mexican ...
American ..
Spanish . .
Hanseatic . .
Danish 
Belgians ...
Prussians . . .
Sardinians . .
Venezuela . .

17
164 35 1716 6
53 2 21

2,438
11,480 7,315
3,764 2,216 1,015 793 542 376
,366 110

124984235 204 128 6247 2723 24 7

£
468,200
^ot to be ascertained.
»

Total arrived

268

30,416

1,865

DEPARTED.

Nations. Vessels.

Tons.

Crews.

Value.

English 
Mexican 
Spanish 

18
163 342015 6 43 2 5
1

2,676
11,573 7,1044,493 2,1071,016 612542376 631110

138 976226241 121
62 3727 2353 7

£
Unknown. }> »

Belgians 

Venezuelans 

Total demanded

271

31,229

1,911

200 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

Gross Return of British and Foreign Trade at
the Port of Tampico, for one Year : —
ARRIVED.

Nations.

Vessels.

Tons.

Crews.

Invoice value
of cargoes.

British 
Spanish 
American . . .
Bremen 

9
14
15 1

923
1,582
1,626 160

70
135104 10

Dollars.
198,000 84,000
21,000 5,000

Total arrived

39

4,291

319

208,000

DEPARTED.

Nations.

Vessels.

Tons.

Crews.

Invoice value
of cargoes.

Dollars.
8
829
70
2,910
14
1,582
135
25,000*
15
1,362
99
24,000f
Bremen
1
160
10
500
Total departed
38
3,933
314
52,410
Chiefly specie.
\ Including ditto.
TRADE OF MATAMORAS.

201

Gross Return of the Trade of the Port of
Matamoras, for one Year : —

arrived.

Nations.

Vessels.

Tons.

Crews.

Invoice value
of cargoes in
pounds sterling.

French 
Hanseatic . . .
United States

18 1
1
13

933110 83
928

104 8
7
84

£
13,264 5,400
6,000
40,650

Total arrived

33

2,054

203

65,314

departed.

Nations.

Vessels.

Tons.

Crews.

Invoice value
of cargoes in
pounds sterling.

Mexican 
French 
Hanseatic . . .
United States

17 11
11

835 110 83
849

95 87
77

£
10,915 3,380
Unknown. 49,675

Total departed

30

1,877

187

63,970

202 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

Gross Return of the British and Foreign Trade
of the Port of San Blas, for one Year: —
ARRIVED.

Nations.

Vessels.

Tons.

Crews.

Invoice value
of cargo.

American 

4111

1,125 101 61
382

59 8 88

Dollars.
Unknown. 135,000
Unknown. 110,000

Total arrived

7

1,669

83

245,000

DEPARTED.

Nations.

Vessels.

Tons.

Crews.

Invoice value
of cargo.

British 
Peruvian

4 1
1 1

1,125 101 61
382

59 88 8

Dollars. 44,000 8,000
Unknown. 7,000

Total departed

7

1,669

83

59,000

TRADE OF MAZATLAN.

203

Gross Return of the British and Foreign Trade
at the Port of Mazatlan, for one Year: —

arrived.

Nations.

Vessels.

Tons.

Crews.

Invoice value
of cargoes.

Dollars.
British 
4
1,115
59
274,000
Hamburgh
4
940
51
118,000
American...
1
175
11
Unknown.
Chilian 
4
500
37
72,500
Bremen . . .
2
390
24
123,000
Danish 
1
220
12
60,000
Ecuador ...
1
206
14
24,000
Spanish . . .
1
225
14
30,000
Peruvian ...
1
210
16
Unknown.
Swedish ...
2
700
32
202,000
French 
1
210
14
40,000
Total arrived
-*
including the
neighbouring port of San
Bias
.29
6,560
367
1,188,500
204 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

DEPARTED.

Nations.

Vessels.

Tons.

Crews.

Invoice value
of cargoes.

Hamburgh
American . . .
Chilian 
Bremen . . .
Ecuador ...
Spanish . . .
Peruvian ...
Swedish ...
French 

4 5
2 1
2 11
1 1
2
Unknown

1,1651,310 421 128
390220206225210 700
Unknown

68
6922 9
2412
14441632
Unknown

Dollars.
381,500 160,600
250,000 3,000
84,000
34,500
300,000
Unknown. )}
50,000
Unknown.

Total departed
including the
neighbouring port of San
Bias

- >27

6,644

363

1,323,100

Statement of all Port Dues and other Charges on Foreign Shipping
at the Principal Ports of the Mexican Republic : —

Ports.

Tonnage duty.

Water dues.

Pilotage.

Ballast Charges.

Bill of
Health.

Fee to Port
Captain.

Stamps.

Dollars.

Dollars.

Dollars.

Dollars.

Dollars.

Dollars.

Dollars.

Vera Cruz . . .

H

f One-eighth )
I per ton. J
1 2 per 9 feet]

38^ each
ship.

SSperbarge)
• load of 25
tons. j

10

8J

ii

measure- ¦
ment.

1 per ton.

...

10

10

Matamoras ...
U
... |
Gratification to pilot 16^
| ...
6
8
San Bias ...]
C 16 and for
Mazatlan ... 1
i*
¦ moving ship
Guyamas . . I
each time 4
hioWOO M CD
JOO OT
206 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

Example of Charges on British Shipping by
the Authorities of Tampico : Brig, 125 tons
register.

PILOTAGE.

Dollars.

cents.

s.

£ a. d.

125 tons at 1 dollar

125

0

4

25 0 0

Drafts, 9 feet atl
2 dollars  J

18

0

4

3 12 0

To the pilot 
Voucher given ...

6

50

4

16 0

149

50

29 18 0

TONNAGE DUTY.

135tons,Mexican'measurement, no
voucher given, at
1^ dollar 
202
50
4 4
40 10 0
352
0
70 8 0
BILL OF HEALTH.
Report in the bill
10
0
4
2 0 0
Captain of the]
port fees, no I
10
0
4
3 0 0
Total . .
8
50
4
1 14 0
380
50
7Q 2 0
COMMERCE UNDER THE SPANISH RULE. 207

CHAPTER XXXIX.
Mexican Commerce. — Cotton Manufacture.
Manufactures under the old Spanish Government. —
Amount of exports and imports. — Account and sta
tistics of cotton manufacture. — Mexican cotton crops.
— Average prices. — Water power. — Puebla. — Climate
and raw material. — Table of Mexican weights and
measures. — Table of coinage.
The chief manufactures of Mexico under the
Spanish Government up to 1807; were woollens,
cottons, g-old and silver lace, hats, leather,
soap, and earthenware ; but the total value
of the goods which they produced did not
amount to more than 7,000,000 and 8,000,000
dollars annually. Some trifling- fabrics of
silk were introduced since that time ; and
the manufactures increased considerably, in
consequence of the war with England and
the interruption of foreign commerce. To
bacco and gunpowder were royal manufac-

208 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
tures and monopolies ; and the former brought
to the crown a clear revenue of 4,000,000
dollars annually. Mexican artisans were said
to be remarkably skilful in works of plate and
jewellery ; and, like some of the eastern na
tions, evinced great taste in imitating carved
surfaces and ornaments.
The commerce of Mexico with the mother
country was carried on almost entirely through
the port of Vera Cruz. In time of peace the
annual value of the exports was estimated at
about 22,000,000 dollars, and the annual
value of the imports at nearly 15,000,000
dollars, thus : — Exports.
Dollars.
Gold and silver, in coin, bullion, and plate 17,000,000
Cochineal  2,400,000
Sugar  1,300,000
Flour  300,000
Indigo, the produce of Nuevo Espana . . 280,000
Salt meat and other provisions  100,000
Tanned hides  80,000
Sarsaparilla  90,000
Vanilla  60,000
Jalap  50,000
Logwood  40,000
Pimento  30,000

Total  21,790,000

PERMITS TO MERCHANTS. 209
Imports.
Dollars.
Bale goods, including woollens, cottons,
linens, and silks  9,200,000
Paper  1,000,000
Brandy  1,000,000
Cacao  1,000,000
Quicksilver  650,000
Iron, manufactured and unmanufactured 600,000
Steel  200,000
Wine  700,000
Bees'-wax  300,000

Total  14,600,0»0
This statement is a mere approximation, and
a rather favourable one, founded on the aver
age of several years of peace, at the latter
end of the last century.
Loans, for the benefit of the republican
government, have been raised by granting
permits to merchants (chiefly Englishmen),
to introduce cotton-twist into the country.
This is a prohibited article — prohibited for the
purpose of cherishing the manufacturing estar
blishments of the republic. These merchants
have prospered to a considerable extent, as
may be seen by the annexed table, compiled
from the most authentic sources.
VOL. II. p

210 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
Statistics of Cotton Manufacture.

Departments.

Fac
tories.

Spindles
established.

Spindles
in erection.

Total.

„ Vera Cruz . .
„ Guadalaxara..
„ Queretaro ....
„ Durango ....
„ Guanajuato . .

1221 752
411

30,156 35,67217,860 11,312 7,620
2,520 1,200
1,000

12,240 5,2006,500

30,15647,912 23,06017,812 7,620
2,5201,200
1,000

53

107,340

23,940

131,280

At the time when the foregoing account
was taken, the number of spindles in three
manufacturing establishments, in the depart
ment of Durango, were not included j for no
definite information had been supplied re
specting them. They may be calculated, how
ever, at about 4,000, which, added to the
131,280,, will give a grand total of 135,000 at
least. The number of looms, also, in the re
public is not presented, because data have
been furnished only in relation to those moved
by machinery. A considerable number of
hand-looms are in constant occupation through
out the republic.

CONSUMPTION OF COTTON.

211

Cotton Factories.

Quantity.

Amount.

I.
The cotton factories of the re
public consume, daily, with
the 107,340 spindles in actual

Lbs. 39,755
35,780
• • • *
48,622
43,760
14,586,666
13,138,000 • * ¦ •
24,797,33222,317,600

Dollars.

Which produce in spun thread,
at the rate of one-third of a
pound for each spindle ....
Which, converted into mantas
and rebosos, have a value of
II.
The same factories, after the
23,940 spindles in erection
are in operation, will consume

39,358

Each spindle will produce thread
Which, converted as aforesaid,
will amount in value to ....
III.
The consumption of cotton, in
the year of 300 working-days,
with 131,280 spindles, will be
The produce in manufactured

48,087
14,440,800

IV.
The 131,280 spindles, working
day and night, will consume

Produce in manufactured value.

24,549,360

212 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
V. Looms.
The 131,280 spindles will occupy (working
only by day)  8,753
The same, working day and night  14,880
Number.
Operatives employed by day  17,000
Do. do. day and night  29,000

VI. Quintals of
cotton.
It will require for the 131,280 spindles work
ing by day  145,666f
The produce of the country, at the utmost, is
not more than  50,000

Leaving a deficit of  95,666f
Quintals of
cotton.
But if the spindles work day and night, they
will require  247,973^
Produce of the country, as above  50,000
Leaving a deficit of  197,973^
Many persons have been induced by this
condition of the market, and the prohibition
of importing the raw material, to commence
plantations of cotton : it is doubtful whether
the habits of the agricultural population are

EXCLUSIVE REGULATIONS. 213
favourable to their prosperity. Great dislike
is evinced in Mexico to adventure in new
branches of industry. Had the ancestors of
the people worked on cotton plantations,
the employment would be contentedly con
tinued ; but it is difficult to train the labourer
to the new cultivation. Signal failures have
occurred on this account, proprietors having
been obliged to abandon their establishments,
after a considerable outlay of money in land
and implements.
The cotton crop of Mexico has been very
variable in value. At Tepic, on the west
coast, it has been as low as fifteen dollars the
quintal; at Vera Cruz, on the east coast,
twenty-two dollars and thirty-four dollars ;
while at Puebla, and in the capital, it has
risen to forty dollars, and even forty-eight
dollars. In spite of all the efforts of English capi
talists and diplomacy, the government has
steadily persevered in fostering the manufac
tures of the republic, excepting by the occa
sional allowance of the importation of twist.
The administration of Santa Anna was ener
getic in its opposition to the introduction of
this article, as well as in its efforts to suppress

214 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
the smuggling of English and American
fabrics. The manufacturers, therefore, re
garded their establishments safe from com
petition, and their success as assured.
The average price of mantas (cotton cloth),
of one vara width, used to be twenty-
five cents the vara ; and of twist, No. 12
to 22, about seventy-five cents the pound.
It was estimated that if cotton fell, in
consequence of importations being allowed,
or a large crop, to twenty-five dollars the
quintal, these articles would be reduced to
eighteen and three-quarters cents the vara for
the first, and to fifty cents the pound for the
second. This condition of the market was to
prevent all importations from abroad, even
aided by smuggling.
There are about 5,000 hand-looms through
out the departments, which will work up all
the spun yarn into mantas and rebosos, as fast
as it can be made. Many of these looms are
entirely employed in the manufacture of the
common rebosos, the consumption of which is
very great among the poorer classes. The value
of these looms is estimated at between 6,000,000
dollars and 7,000,000 dollars. The number
of persons employed in every way in manu-

FACTORIES OF PUEBLA. 215
factures, is supposed to be not much short of
30,000. The motive power made use of in the
factories is water, which is often abundant
enough for that purpose, proceeding from
small streams falling from the mountains into
the neighbouring plains or barrancas. Owing
to the scarcity of wood (the only available
fuel), and the costliness of its transportation,
steam cannot be advantageously produced.
There are several manufactories of cotton
balls, or thread, in Mexico ; but they are not
of very great importance.
Puebla is the Lowell of Mexico : the prin
cipal cotton manufactories are located there ;
and some of them are in very successful ope
ration at the present time, which can be said
of very few others. It was by the influence
of the manufacturers of Puebla, that the per
mission granted to foreign merchants for the
introduction of cotton-twist, in 1842, was
withdrawn. The high price of the raw material, which
ranges from forty to fifty cents per pound
(and in such articles as coarse cottons, the raw
material constitutes the chief value), is one great
obstacle to the success of cotton manufacture

216 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
in the republic. Another immense dis
advantage is, that all the manufacturer's ma
chinery is transported by land at an enormous
cost ; and when any portion of it gets out of
order, the difficulty and delay of repairing it,
and the consequent loss, are incalculable. How
ever tempting to such an investment may be
the high prices of the manufactured articles,
those high prices are equally tempting to
smuggling-, in a country with 10,000 miles
of frontier and seaboard. There is, perhaps,
no other country where the receipts of the
custom-house are so little to be relied upon, as
to the amount of importations, and where
smuggling is carried on to so great an extent ;
even where goods are regularly imported, in
numerable frauds are practised both by and
upon the custom-house officers.
The climate of nearly all Mexico is suited
to the growth of cotton ; and no other reason
appears to exist for its very limited production
than the characteristic indolence of the people.
Several Americans have attempted to extend
its culture in this country; but their experi
ments have almost invariably ended in bank
ruptcy. A more striking proof of the un
conquerable repugnance of the Mexicans to

MEXICAN MEASUREMENT. 217
labour cannot be given than the fact that though
short staple cotton sells at from forty to forty-
five cents (about Is. 8d. to Is. lOd. English)
per pound, while they have lands and climate
well adapted to its culture, yet they never
make enough for their own small consump
tion. Although the whole road from the city
of Vera Cruz to the city of Mexico passes
through a country inexpressibly picturesque
and beautiful, yet the ignorant, idle, and de
graded population, and the general absence of
cultivation and improvement, produce, in the
mind of a spectator, feelings of unmitigated
gloom and melancholy : the great mass of the
population dozing out their lives with no
higher thoughts or purposes than the beasts
which perish around them.
It must be remarked, that the estimates
forming the bulk of this chapter, compiled as
they necessarily are from Mexican state
ments, appear very favourable ; and exhibit the
commerce of the republic in this commodity
in its most prosperous light.
As several Mexican modes of measurement
have been referred to in these pages, it may
be well to give a complete copy of the weights
and measures now in use in the republic.

218 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

Weights and Measures.
The vara, of three feet long.
The foot, of twelve inches.
The inch, of twelve lines.
The weights are : —
The quintal, of four arrobas, is equal to 101
lbs. 7 ounces, avoirdupois.
The arroba, of twenty- five pounds.
The pound, of sixteen ounces, is equal to
1 lb. 4 drachms nearly, avoirdupois.
The ounce, of sixteen drachms.
The drachm, of thirty-six grains.
Dry Measure. — The cahiz contains 12
fanegas ; and the fanega, 12 celemines. The
latter has many subdivisions. The fanega is
of the capacity of 3,439 cubic inches, English,
and is equal to 1 bushel 599 parts.
Liquid Measure. — The mozo of wine con
tains 16 arrobas, or cantaros ; an arroba, 8
azumbras, or 32 quartillos. A botta contains
30 arrobas. The arroba measures 981 cubic
inches, English, and is equal to 4 gallons 245

TABLE OF COINAGE. 219
parts. The arroba of oil is equal to 3 gallons
33 parts.
Long Measure.— The foot is divided into
12 pulgadas, and is equal to 11 inches 128
parts, English. The palmo measures 9 pulga
das, or 81 inches : the vara, 4 palmas, or 33
inches 384 parts.

For purposes of elucidation, in the tables in
this volume, the terms dollar and cent have
been employed : the former of eight silver
rials, equal to about 4s. 2d. sterling ; and the
latter one hundred to each dollar. But the
following is a table of Mexican coinage, with
all the names of coins characteristic of the
country. Silver Coins. £ s. d.
The peso, or dollar, equal to two tostons .... 0 4 2
The toston, equal to two pesatas  0 2 1
The pesata, equal to two rials  0 1 O5
The rial, equal to two medios  0 0 63
The medio, equal to two currtillas  0 0 3|

220 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
Copper Coins. £ *. d.
The currtilla  nearly 0 0 1|
The claco, ovjola  rather over 0 0 0|
The grano  0 0 OJ
The gold doblon, or onza (doubloon) is still
in use : its par value is sixteen dollars ; but
from its conveniency for remittances, in the
absence of a paper currency, it commands a
high premium, insomuch as to be frequently
valued in the north, at from eighteen to twenty
dollars.

ARRIVAL OF VESSELS. 221

CHAPTER XL.
COMMERCIAL REGULATIONS, PROHIBITIONS, AND IMPORT
DUTIES.
Admission of vessels. — Number of ports open to foreign
commerce. — Goods free of duties. — Invoices. — List of
prohibited articles. — Exempted articles. — Measurement
of goods. — List of duties, in Mexican and British
monies, on admitted articles. — Articles of flax, &c. —
Wood, &c. — Silks. — Of cotton manufacture.
Article I.
Every vessel, of whatever nation, not at
war with Mexico, shall be admitted into such
ports of the latter as are open to foreign com
merce ; and in the act of arriving, the captain,
or supercargo, and the crew, as well as the
vessel and the cargo, shall be subjected to the
regulations prescribed in this decree; to the
payment of duties, and to the penalties esta
blished by it, or to the measures in force at the
time of arriving. Vessels shall therefore be

222 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
considered as arrived for all the uses of this
tariff immediately on casting anchor in the
waters of the port. Article II.
Vessels proceeding from a foreign port, not
excepting national vessels, shall bring no more
merchandise than is destined for the Mexican
port to which they are bound. The breach of
this article shall be punished by confiscating
the vessel and the merchandise not destined to
the same port. Article III.
The following ports are open to foreign
commerce : — In the Mexican Gulf.
Sisal.Campeachy.Santa Juan Bautista de Tabasco.
Vera Cruz.
Santa Anna de Taumalissas.
Matamoras.
Matagorda.
Velasco. Galveston.

GOODS FREE OF DUTY. 223
In the Pacific.
Acapulco.
San Bias.
Mazatlan.
In the Gulf of California.
Guyamas.
In the Sea of Upper California.
Monterey.
Article IV-
National vessels, conveying foreign or
native goods, produce, or other effects, from
one port to another, or others in the republic,
shall be free from tonnage duties.
Article V.
The following effects shall be free of all
duties in whatsoever vessel they may be im
ported, viz. : —
1. Card, wire.
2. Exotic or dissected animals.
3. Quicksilver.
4. Mineral coal, until the mines of the re
public supply it.

224 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
5. Mineralogical and geological collections.
6. Objects of natural history.
7. Designs and models of machines, edifices,
monuments, and shipping.
8. Bricks and earth for foundry furnaces.
9. Printing types.
10. Printed books stitched, and manuscript,
or printed music, not including, in
this exemption, books and other
prints used for infant schools, or for
devotion, and bound or half-bound
books.
11. Topographical and geographical maps
and charts.
12. Machines, apparatus, and instruments
for scientific purposes.
13. Machines and apparatus for agriculture,
mining, and the arts, except stills
that are not of new invention. (In
this and the preceding classification,
machines are understood to be such
works as are composed of various
pieces, with the object of putting into
play mechanical power; and appa
ratus such works as are composed of
various pieces adapted for experi
ments in physics, and the chemical

GOODS ADMITTED FREE. 225
affinities of bodies, solid, liquid, gas
eous, or imponderable ; things that
can be sold separately, such as pig-
iron, oil, broadcloth, plush, skins, &c,
though coming as connected with
machinery, shall be subject to the
payment of duties.)
14. Ancient and modern coins of all metals,
and fac-similes of them in composition
or pasteboard.
15. Ship-masts.
16. Exotic plants and their seeds.
17. New vessels of all kinds, destined to be
come naturalized.
18. Linen rags.
19. Printing ink.
Article VI.
Such articles as are declared free of importa
tion duties, shall also be free of all other duties
in their transit through the country.
Article VII.
Although the effects enumerated in the Vth
Article shall be free of all duties, they must be
entered in the general manifest of the vessel,
and bring particular invoices with them.
VOL. n. Q

226 pictures of life in Mexico.
Goods arriving in the republic without the
said documents, and having a consignee, he
shall pay only a fine of fifty dollars, but
should there be no consignee to take charge
of them immediately, the fine shall be levied
on said effects, which in this case shall be 100
dollars, and the surplus effects shall be de
livered to the respective consuls, that they
may hold them at the disposal of whoever
may have a right to them.
PROHIBITIONS. Article VIII.
The importation of the following effects is
prohibited under the penalty of confiscation,
and other penalties imposed by this tariff": —
1. Brandy distilled from sugar cane, and
any other not from the grape, ex
cept gin and rum imported in bottles
and jars.
2. Starch.
3. Aniseed and caraway seed.
4. Capers.
5. Sugar of all kinds.
6. Rice.

prohibited articles. 227
7. Raw cotton.
8. Indigo.
9. Brass and copper wire of all kinds.
10. Fire-arms, and other arms of all kinds.
11. Sulphur.
12. Boots and half-boots of leather or
cloth, with soles for men, women, and
children.
13. Buttons of every metal, which are en
graved or stamped on the obverse or
reverse, with the national or Spanish
arms.
14. Coffee.
15. Manufactured wax.
16. Cast nails of all sizes.
17. Copper in pigs, and manufactured into
utensils for domestic use.
18. Cumin.
19. Tortoise-shell and horn, manufactured
into articles of the latter material only.
20. Epaulettes of all kinds, and metals for
military insignia.
21. Cordovan leather of all kinds and
qualities.
22. Tin in blocks.
23. All kinds of prints, miniatures, pictures,
and figures that are obscene; and in

228 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
general every article of workmanship
that is obscene, and contrary to religion
and good morals.
24. Artificial flowers.
25. All kinds of galloons made of metals or
other materials.
26. Chamois leather of all kinds.
27. Woollen cloths of the poorest and
coarsest kinds, called " gerga" and
" gerguetilla."
28. Wheat flour, except for Yucatan.
29. Every kind, number, and colour of cotton
yarn.
30. Every kind, number, and colour of cotton
thread.
31. Thread of cotton and linen mixed.
32. Soap of all kinds.
33. Children's toys.
34. Common earthenware, glazed or not
glazed, printed or plain.
35. Books, pamphlets, and manuscripts, pro
hibited by competent authority.
36. Blank books, ruled or not ruled, and
invoices, bills of exchange, bills of
lading, and forms of custom-house docu
ments, whether printed, engraved, or
lithographed.

PROHIBITED ARTICLES. 229
37. Hog's lard.
38. Molasses.
39. Timber of all kinds, excepting for ship-
masts, fine wood for veneers, and that
permitted in Tampico and Matamoras
by the decree of the 3rd of June 1840,
subject to the duties assigned to it.
40. Munitions of war, whether of lead, or
any other metal.
41. Playing cards of all kinds.
42. Gold-leaf or tinsel.
43. Broadcloth, not of the first quality.
44. Parchments, except for drawing.
45. Lead in the rough or refined.
46. Gunpowder, except for sporting.
47. Ploughshares of the same form as that
used in the country.
48. " Rebosos" (cotton scarfs of the country)
of all kinds, and all printed or clouded
cloths, imitating them.
49. All kinds of ready- made clothing, in
cluding vestments and clerical orna
ments.
(The following articles excepted : —
Bands and sashes, with or without
fringe. Covered buttons of all kinds.

230 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
Leather shirts. Stocking- web, shirts
and drawers, whether of silk, cotton,
or wool.
Silk scarfs.
Netted or elastic caps, whether silk,
cotton, or wool.
Gloves. Stockings, hats, and suspenders.
Handkerchiefs. Shawls, with and without linings.)
50. Common salt.
51. Saltpetre.
52. Blankets and coverlets of cotton or
woollen.
53. " Sayal" (a fabric made of wool and
hair) and sayalette (a coarse woollen
stuff, called in some places tanning).
54. Tallow in the rough and refined.
55. Tobacco of all kinds and in every form.
It can only be imported by the director
of the tobacco monopoly ; but private
licenses for cigars and rappee will be
granted by the government, in which
case the duties will be paid at three
dollars per pound.
56. Plain and ribbed cloths, bleached and
unbleached, made of cotton alone, or

PROHIBITED ARTICLES. 231
mixed, that do not exceed thirty threads
weft and warp on a quarter inch.
57. Unbleached, twilled, and satin - faced
cloths, made of cotton only, or mixed,
which do not exceed thirty threads
weft and warp on a quarter inch.
58. Plain coloured cloths of fast colours
made of cotton only, or mixed, which
do not exceed twenty-five threads weft
and warp on a quarter inch.
(When in this and other parts of the tariff"
colours are alluded to, it must be understood
that the definition includes not only the colours
which resist the action of water, soap, and
light, but also those which do not resist them ;
but always retain enough colour to prevent
them being used to the prejudice of the bleached
and unbleached cottons manufactured in the
country.) 59. Plain coloured cloths of fugitive colours,
made of cotton only, or mixed, which
do not exceed thirty threads under
the quarter inch of weft and warp.
CO. Salt pork, cured or pressed, and the
offal of pigs (in this prohibition are

232 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
not included sausages and smoked
hams).
61. Wheat and all other grain.
62. Shoes and slippers.
With respect to manufactured articles of iron
and steel, the following are exempted from the
said prohibition, and they shall pay the corre
sponding duties : —
Awl blades.
Fish hooks.
Barrel hoop and hoop iron.
Gimlets.
Braces and bracebits.
Gravers.
Knives proper to the arts.
Strings for musical instruments.
Hand-vices.Hooks for dentists.
Files. Saws.
Screws. Article IX.
The law of the 29th of March 1827 re
mains in force, inasmuch as the powers given

RATES AND MEASURES. 233
by it to the states' legislatures for fixing the
periods for allowing the importation, are ex
ercised by the "juntas" of the departments.
Article X.
The importation of wheat into the state of
Chiapa is permitted in such cases as the
u junta" of the department shall determine.
Duties on a valuation to be fixed according
to the prices of the articles within the republic.
Article XI.
All goods, produce, and effects included in
this tariff shall pay the rates designated in it.
The goods which exceed a vara in width
shall be reduced to square measure, and the
rate shall be collected on each square vara ;
but cloths under a vara wide, which are joined
together by a seam or list, are not to be passed
as a single piece, otherwise it will be held as a
fraud. Those which are not specified in this
tariff, shall pay an ad valorem duty of thirty
per cent. Article XII.
The vessels, barrels, or bottles, which con
tain liquids, and the common wrappers of piece

234 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
goods, including up to ten varas of inside
wrapper, whether of linen, woollen, or cotton
stuff not prohibited, will be exempt from
duties; but if they exceed this length, the
whole shall pay duty according to this tariff",
and should they be of a prohibited kind, they
shall be confiscated.
Specific duties imposed according to fixed
valuations on the basis of thirty per cent.
These valuations are those which the goods
are worth in Mexico, without any reference to
the invoice prices ; as shewn in the following
table : —

Articles.

Weight,
measure, or
number.

Import
duty, Mexi
can money.

Import duty,
British
money.

lb.
100 lbs.
do.
do.do.do. lb. do.

dol. c.
0 12
5 0
2 00
16 00
18 00
12 00
0 16
0 12

£ s. d.
0 0 6

1 0 10

Steel.. 

0 8 4

Gin 

3 6 8

3 15 0

Brandy from the grape,
pure or mixed, without
allowance for leakage
Scented waters, of any
herb, flower, or wood,
including weight of

2 10 0
0 0 8

White lead 

0 0 6

DUTIES ON ADMITTED GOODS.

235

Weight,

Import

Import duty,

Articles.

measure, or (

luty, Mexi

British

number.

can money.

money.

dol. u.
£ s. d.
Shelled almonds, sweet
100 lbs.
6 00
15 0
Almonds, in the husk . .
do.
4 00
0 16 8
Tincal 
lb.
0 12J
0 0 6i
Bad fish, and any other
dried or smoked
100 lbs.
4 00
0 16 8
Whalebone, in the rough
or manufactured ....
lb.
0 14
0 0 7
Common glass bottles
dozen
0 75
0 3 li
do.
1 00
0 4 2
Guayaquil, Para, or Is-
100 lbs.
4 00
0 16 8
Cocoa of any other kind
do.
8 00
1 13 4
Paint-boxes, with paints
in phials, or catres of
from twelve to forty-
eight, and without any
dozen
3 33
0 13 11
Do., with paints in flasks
or cakes, with other
each
1 33
0 5 7
Cinnamon and cassia of
lb.
1 00
0 4 2
Bees'-wax, bleached and
100 lbs.
22 00
4 11 8
lb.
20 00
4 3 4
Beer and cider, in quart
bottles, without allow
ance for leakage ....
100 lbs.
8 00
1 13 4
Beer and cider in barrel,
without allowing for
do.lb.
4 00
0 50
0 16 8
0 2 1
236 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

Weight,

Import

Import duty,

Articles.

measure, or

duty, Mexi

British

number.

can money.

money.

dol. c.
£ s. d.
Eatables, not prohibited,
such as hams and
sausages, the latter
called " chorizos, "
" chorizones," and
100 lbs.
8 00
1 13 4
Preserves for eating, in
cluding weight of ves
sel containing them
do.
25 00
5 4 2
Sweetmeats, ditto, ditto
do.
50 00
10 8 4
Pickles, in vinegar and
do.do.
16 00
25 00
3 6 8
Manufactured sperm . .
5 4 2
do.
12 50
2 14 2
Fruits, preserved in bran
dy or other liquors,
weight of vessel in-
do.
23 00
3 15 10
Iron of all kinds, not
quintal
1 50
0 6 3
Do. in plates, wrought
and cast, and hoop-
do.
3 00
0 12 6
Tin plates of all kinds
do.
4 50
0 18 9
Books or pamphlets of
first lessons or of de-
100 lbs
8 00
1 13 4
6 5 0
Pine wood for veneers . .
i. V/ V.' XkJiJ ¦
lOOOsq.ft.
80 00
Building timber, admit
ted at Tampico and
Matamoras, by the
decree of the 3rd June
1840 
do.
10 00
2 18
DUTIES ON ADMITTED GOODS.

237

Articles.

Weight, Import
measure, or duty, Mexi
number, can money

Import duty,
British
money.

Shingles for roofing, by
virtue of the same de
cree 
Butter, the weight of
vessel included 
Common writing paper
Letter paper 
Drawing paper of all
sizes, and ruled music

paper 
Ruled paper for accounts
and other uses, and
paper gilt and adorned
on the surface 
Paper hangings 
Paper for letter-press . .
Copying-press paper . .
Sand-paper of all quali
ties 
Wrapping-paper 
Raisins, figs, and all other
dried fruits
Pepper, fine and common
Cheeses of all kinds, the
weight of the wrap
pers included 
Anchovies, salmon, tunny
and any other sea-fish
in pickle, salted, dried,
or in oil, the weight of
the vessel included
Tea, black 
Do., green

Furniture, old and new,
all kinds 

1,000
100 lbs.
quintal do.

do.

do.do.do.do.do. do. do.
100 lbs.

do.

do.lb. do.
100 lbs.

dol. c.

2 00
8 00
12 00
16 00

16 00

24 00
24 00
6 00
16 00
7 00
3 00
3 00
8 00

4 00

5 00
0 50
0 75
15 00

£ s. d.

0 8 4
1 13 4
2 10 0
3 6 8

3 6 8

5 0 0
5 0 0
15 0
3 6 8
19 2
0 12 6
0 12 6
1 13 4

0 16 8

1 0 10
0 2 1
0 3 li
3 2 6

238

PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

Articles.

Carriages or open cha
riots, two wheels ....
Do., four wheels 
Do., gigs, two wheels. .
Do., small carriages, two
seats 
Do., coaches, landaus,
two or more seats ....
Do., stages and omnibus
Glass, or crystals, formed
into pieces of all kinds,
colours, and sizes, ex
cept window - glass,
and plate glasses, with
out allowance for
breakage, gross weight
Glass-ware of all other
kinds, as window and
plate 
Window-glasses of all
numbers and colours,
without any allowance
for breakage, gross
weight 
Vinegar 
White wines of all kinds,
in barrel, without al
lowance for leakage. .
Do. do., in bottle, do. do.
Red do., in barrels, do.
do 
Do. do., in bottle, do. do

Weight, Import
measure, or duty, Mexi-
number, can money,

each do.do.
do.
do.do.

100 lbs.

do.

do.do.

do.
do.
do.
do.

dol. c.
25 00
100 00
50 00
150 00
300 00
100 00

Import duty,
British
money.

6 00
10 00

10 00
3 00

2 50
3 25
2 25
3 00

£ s. d.
5 4 2
20 16 8
10 8 4
31 5 0
62 10 0
20 16 8

15 0
2 18

2 18
0 13 4

0 10 5
0 13 6£
0 9 4|
0 12 6

DUTIES ON ADMITTED GOODS.

239

Articles.

ARTICLES OF FLAX,
HEMP, TOW, AND GRASS.
Hemp 
Flax 
Carpeting of hemp or
tow alone, at and un
der a vara wide ....
Sheetings of flax or hemp,
or imitations of them,
at and under a vara
wide 
Socks and half-stockings
of all colours 
Tapes of all kinds and
colours 
Gloves of all sizes and
colours 
Linen thread of all kinds,
numbers, and colours
Twine of all kinds 
Bleached, unbleached,
and coloured cloths of
hemp or hemp-tow, at
and under a vara wide
Bleached and unbleached
plain cloths, of flax,
flax-tow, or grass, at
and under a vara wide
Bleached and unbleached
more than thirty-six
threads to the quar
ter-inch 

Weight,
measure, or
number.

Import
duty, Mexi
can money.

dol. c.

quintal do.

2 00
3 00

vara

0 12j

do.

0 07

dozen

0 75

lb.

0 60

dozen

0 75

lb.
100 lbs.

0 75
4 00

vara

0 06

do.

0 08

do.

0 09

Import duty,
British
money.

£ s. d.

0 8 4
0 12 6

0 0 6i
0 0 3£
0 3 lj
0 2 6
0 3 lj
0 3 1^
0 16 8
0 0 3
0 0 4
0 0 4J

240 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

Articles.

Weight,
measure, or
number.

Import
duty, Mexi
can money.

Import duty,
British
money.

Plain cloths, made of the
last mentioned mate
rials, painted, striped,
or shaded, at and un
der a vara wide ....
Bleached, unbleached, or
coloured cloths figured,
twilled, or damasked,
at and under a vara
wide 
Bleached, unbleached,
and coloured cloths,
embroidered, or with
open work, at and un
der a vara wide ....
Men's and women's
stockings of all kinds
and colours 
Children's do. do 
Plain, white, or coloured
handkerchiefs, at and
under a vara wide . .

ARTICLES OF WOOL,
HAIR, FEATHERS, AND
FURS.
Wool, raw 
Floor carpets and "tripe"
of all kinds, at and un
der a vara wide ....
Socks and half-stockings
of all colours 

vara

do.

do.

dozen do.

do.

100 lbs.
vara
dozen

dol. c.

0 09

0 11

0 18

I 50
0 50

1 50

4 00

0 75

£ s. d.

0 0 4J

0 0 6

0 0 9

0 6 3
0 2 1

0 6 3

0 16 8

0 3 li

0 75 0 3 li

DUTIES ON ADMITTED GOODS.

241

Articles.

Weight,
measure, or
number.

Import
duty, Mexi
can money.

Stocking-webs, shirt, and
drawers 
Twilled cassimere of all
kinds and colours, at
and under a vara ....
Worsted thread of all
kinds and colours ....
Netted caps 
Gloves of all sizes and
colours 
Men's and women's
stockings of all kinds
and colours ... ....
Children's do. do 
Plain and fancy broad
cloths of all colours, a
vara wide 
Handkerchiefs, plain,
wrought, and twilled,
of all colours, at and
under a vara wide, ex
clusive of the fringe ._ .
White and coloured plain
cloths, at and under a
vara wide 
Cloths of all colours,
worked, damasked,
crossed, striped, and
twilled, at and under
a vara wide 

each

vara lb.
dozen do.

do.do.

vara

do.

do.

do.

dol.

Import duty,
British
money.

0 50

0 75
0 60
3 00
0 75

1 50
0 50

1 00

0 20

0 12

0 15

d.

0 2 1

0 3
0 2
0 12

11 6 6

0 3 li

0 0

3 1

0 4 2

0 0 10

0 0 64

0 0 71

VOL II.

R

242

PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

Articles.

SILKS.
Blond, and other lace,
and netting of all
kinds and colours,
plain and embroidered
Umbrellas and parasols
of all sizes 
Unmanufactured silk of
all qualities 
Untwisted silk, or
" quina," of all quali
ties and colours ....
Thrown silk, sewing silk,
and chinelle for em
broidering, of all quali
ties and colours ....
Plain and fancy silks of
all fabrics, composed
of silk only, whatever
quality or name ....

COTTON
MANUFACTURE.
Socks and half-stockings
Stocking-web, shirts, and
drawers 
White and coloured tapes
Netted caps 
Gloves of all sizes and
colours 

Weight,
measure, or
number.

lb.
each lb.

do.

do.

do.

dozen each lb.
dozen do.

Import
duty, Mexi
can money,

dol. c.

12 00
1 25
1 00

2 00 0 8 4

3 00

3 00

0 80
0 50
0 75
3 00
0 75

Import duty,
British
money.

£ s. d.

2 10 0
0 5 2|
0 4 2

0 12 6

0 12 6

0 3 4
0 2 1
0 3 H
0 12 6

0 3 li

DUTIES ON ADMITTED GOODS.

243

Articles.

Weight, Import
measure, or duty, Mexi-
number. can money.

Bleached and unbleached
cloths, ribbed and
plain, exceeding thirty
threads weft and warp
on the quarter-inch,
at and under a vara
wide 
Unbleached, twilled, or
satin cloths, exceeding
thirty threads weft
and warp on the quar
ter-inch, at and under
a vara wide 
Plain cloths, unbleached
or striped, of fugitive
colours, exceeding
thirty threads on the
quarter-inch 
White, twilled, or satin
cloths, with or without
embossing, raised face,
or cut like velvet, at
and under a vara wide
Plain cloths, printed or
dyed, striped or shaded,
of fast colours, from
twenty-six threads,
weft and warp on the
quarter-inch, at and
under a vara wide ....
Twilled, and all other
cloths, not plain, print
ed, and dyed 

vara

do.

do.

do.

dol. c.

do.

do.

0 15

0 15

0 15

0 15

Import duty
British
money.

0 10
0 10

£ s. d.

0 0 7i

0 0 7i

0 0 7i

0 0 7i

0 0 5
0 0 5

244

PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

Articles.

Weight,
measure, or
number.

Import
duty, Mexi
can money.

dol. c.

lb.

0 50

dozen do.

1 50
0 50

do.

0 12$

do.

0 12J.

each

0 09

do.

0 11

Import duty,
British
money.

Thread, cotton, or of
cotton and wool, in
cluding the paper
packages 
Men's and women's
stockings of all quali
ties and colours ....
Children's do 
Muslins, linos, gauzes,
and other white and
coloured cotton cloths,
of an open texture,
fancy and plain, with
out regard to the num
ber of threads, at and
under a vara wide . .
Printed, striped, and
checked handkerchiefs
of fast colours, from
twenty-six threads on'
the quarter-inch, at
and under a vara wide
Plain white handker
chiefs, with white or
coloured borders, ex
ceeding thirty threads
on the quarter-inch,
at and under a vara
wide 
White handkerchiefs,
twilled, or with raised
stripes or checks, at
and under a vara wide

s. d.

0 2 1

6 3
2 1

o ej

0 6i

0 0 4i

0 5|

COTTON AND CLOTH GOODS.

245

Weight,

Import

Import duty,

Articles.

measure, or

duty, Mexi

British

number.

can money.

money.

dol. c.
£ s. d.
White handkerchiefs,
with bordersor corners
embroidered or with
open work, at and un-
each
0 14
0 0 7
White and coloured mus
lin handkerchiefs,
without regard to
number of threads, at
and under a vara wide
do.
0 16
0 0 8
Lace of cotton, including
lb.
2 00
0 8 4
All handkerchiefs which exceed a square
vara, shall be subject to pay duties, according
to their kind, for the number of square varas
they contain.
All the cloths included in this classification,
although they may have a mixture of flax,
hemp, grass, or tow, or any of them, shall pay
the rate and duty as pure cotton, according to
the description of cloth they are.
246 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.

CHAPTER XLI.
PASSPORTS AND PENALTIES.
Rules for register of passengers. — Written report of
foreigners. — Restrictions on entering the country. — Carta
de Seguridad, or card of safety. — Penalties on violating
regulations for shipment. — Penalties on false money.
The master of any vessel coming from a
foreign port, shall, immediately on his arrival
in any of the ports of the republic, declare in
writing to the chief of the maritime custom
house, the number of passengers he has on
board, the country to which they belong, their
trade or occupation, and the place where they
embarked. The penalty for neglecting to
comply with this regulation, or the making a
false statement, is 100 dollars; and an addi
tional fine of 20 dollars for each passenger
omitted in the report. The vessel may be
detained until the penalty be paid. Seamen,
whose names are entered on the roll, are not
considered as passengers.

REGULATIONS FOR FOREIGNERS. 247
Every foreigner shall, before he disembarks,
declare his name, age, stature, place of birth,
from whence he came, his destination, the
object of his voyage, and his profession;
which report, when made by the head of a
family, will be sufficient for the women and
children thereof.
The declaration above must be in writing,
and signed by the person making the same.
This formality being complied with, the
collector shall give to the foreigner a permit
to disembark ; subject, however, to the follow
ing rules : —
1. That no Spaniard, or subject of the
Spanish government, shall enter the republic.
2. That any foreigner provided with a
passport from the general government, may
disembark. 3. That the citizens of the new States of
America, and the subjects of nations who have
agents officially accredited to the republic,
may also land, having passports granted, or
examined by any Mexican agent at the place
of embarkation, or on security of their consul
in the port where they may arrive, or on that
of any Mexican citizen.
The subjects of nations who are not com-

248 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
prehended in the foregoing paragraph, shall
only be permitted to land with a passport of
the general government, or with one granted
or examined by any Mexican agent residing
in a foreign country.
The foreigner to whom such permit is
granted, must, within twenty-four hours after
having landed, present himself to the civil
authority of the port.
Any foreigner permitted to introduce him
self into the republic as aforesaid, shall,
within one month thereafter, solicit of the
supreme government a carta de seguridad
(card of safety), to remain in, and pass through
the same for the period of one year ; in order
to obtain which, a certificate will be required
from the officially accredited agent of the
applicant, stating that he is a subject or citizen
of the nation he represents, as also his occupa
tion or profession.
Every foreigner, whatever his passport may
be, must present himself to the civil authority
of the place where he may have resided more
than eight days ; and, also, whenever he may
change his place of residence ; non-compliance
with this provision subjects the party to a fine
df twenty dollars.

CIVIL RIGHTS. 249
Foreigners introduced and established agree
ably to the regulations herein prescribed, shall
be under the protection of the laws, and enjoy
the same civil rights that are conceded by said
laws to Mexican citizens, with the exception
of acquiring real estates, which can only be
held by citizens.*
Any foreigner who shall disembark and in
troduce himself into the territorv of the re-
public, contrary to the provisions of this
decree, shall be expelled therefrom. As, also,
any foreigner who shall be adjudged guilty of
having used, for the purpose of his disembarka
tion, any document belonging to another, or
for having suppressed or falsified any of the
statements required, or for having counter
feited or altered any passport or carta de
seguridad. Every foreigner wishing to leave the re
public must make application for the proper
passport, either to the general government,
or the civil authority of the state in which he
may be.
* This exception does not extend to lands belonging to
mining establishments, in which aliens may hold shares.
Aliens may purchase and hold land by permission of the
general government for federal ten-itory, or of the state
governments for state territory.

250 pictures of life in mexico.
Penalties.
If any foreign vessel, of whatever burden
or form, or wherever she may have come
from, be found loading or unloading goods of
any kind at any coast, river, harbour, bay, or
other place, not pointed out by the tariff as a
port for foreign vessels, she shall for this alone
be confiscated, together with the cargo and
all that belongs to her. The commander of
the said vessel shall be fined from 500 to 3,000
dollars, according to the value of the cargo,
and shall be condemned besides to from six
to five years of labour and banishment. All
those who knowingly aid or protect the load
ing of said vessels, or the carriage of goods by
land, introduced into, or carried out of places
described by decree, shall suffer the following
fines and punishments, viz. : — the owner, or
his deputy, of the carts, beasts of burden, and
everything used in the transport of the effects,
and the persons who receive the goods, as well
as he who delivers, deposits, takes charge of,
or conceals them, shall all undergo the same
penalties and punishments as the captain or
supercargo of the vessel, and the other shall
be punished by paying a tenth part of the fine,

CONFISCATIONS. 251
and suffering a tenth of the punishment imposed
on the principals.
National vessels shall be liable to the same
penalties on coming from a foreign port, and
entering any of those not open to foreign
commerce, if found shipping any effects what
ever for a foreign country, and when they
are found loading or unloading any kind of
goods whatever, at ports or places not open to
foreign commerce, or to the coasting trade.
All merchandise found in ports open to
foreign commerce, or the coasting trade,
which has been introduced, or be in the act of
being introduced, without observing any of the
instructions or regulations issued by the go
vernment, shall be confiscated, together with
all the boats, canoes, and vessels of every class.
Should the goods be those of which the
government has a monopoly, the importers
and exporters who introduce them in another
port or coast of the republic, together with
him who delivers and receives them, shall
suffer, besides the confiscation of the goods,
vessels, cars, beasts for riding or of burden,
with harnesses, equipments, and arms, a
fine of double the value of the monopolized
goods, rated at the price of the monopoly at

252 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
the respective places, and in default of pay
ment, shall be condemned to banishment for
the term of from two to eight years.
Should false money, whatever the metal
may be, be found, besides the confiscation of
everything- mentioned in the preceding clause,
and besides a fine, equal to what the false
money would represent, if legal, the offender
shall be punished with all the penalties in
flicted by the law on coiners; should the
offender be unable to pay the fine, the metal
shall be melted, and held, together with all
the property that may have been recovered,
for the benefit of the informer, and those who
seized it.

REDUNDANCY AND EXCESS. 253

CONCLUDING CHAPTER.
Striking features of the country. — Motives for exposition
of facts. — Physical weakness of the people. — Want of
mental energy. — Isolation and prohibitory duties. —
House and land rents. — Financial difficulties. — Various
classes.— State of the fine arts. — The army, trade, law,
and medicine. — Social qualities. — Literature, language,
and education. — Political future.
The intelligent reader will most likely con
clude, on perusal of this work, that the prin
cipal features of the country of Mexico —
whether it be the wild beauty and variety of
its natural scenery, the indolence and abject
poverty of its chief population, or the splen
dour and influence of its church establishment
— are all marked by redundancy and excess.
This is the fact ; and it may not be amiss to
give, in the form of a summary, what appear
to be the causes of the present state of the
republic, together with the existing grounds
for hope and promise in the future.
The Author would wish to observe that he

254 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
has been totally uninfluenced by party bias or
feeling, in his remarks on the Mexican priest
hood and their usages, in Chapters VIII.,
IX., and X., of Volume I. Any reader in a
position to judge impartially of the subject,
must own, on examination, that nothing but
the truth has been told. The priests in Mexico
are less prepared by education for their holy
office, than are the humblest of their class in
Europe ; in a partially civilized country like the
one in question, they have little accountability,
and are under few restraints ; and, under
such circumstances, greater temptations, both
to rapacity and licentiousness, are held out
to them. In the chapters alluded to, it
was the writer's object, honestly and truth
fully to expose the workings of a system, in a
land where nefarious " priestly doings" need
assume no disguise ; and therefore any attempt
to conceal the injurious nature of such an eccle
siastical policy, or the vice and ignorance of
its ministers, would have been criminal : for to
them is undeniably attributable much of the
suffering and deg'radation pressing so heavily
upon the whole community. The facts ad
duced are their own best interpreters, and
need no comment.

PHYSICAL AND MENTAL QUALITIES. 255
There is doubtless a great affinity between
the races of Mexican Indians (the native
Aztecs) and the Arabian tribes; there yet
remains much of the Eastern type in the
aspect of the people — their diminutive figures,
their aversion to labour, their fiery irritable
tempers, and their flowing and often poetical
redundancy of language. The physical weak
ness of the modern Mexicans is extreme ; in
somuch that the Indian men are not perso
nally stronger, on the average, than the women
of many climes : in the war with America the
feebleness of the Mexicans was so apparent,
that their enemies often vanquished them at
the rate of one against four or five.
Their want of mental energy, also, corre
sponds with their bodily weakness : they are
totally unfit for enterprise of any sort; and
are, also, deficient in courage and perseve
rance. New kinds of employment, whether
manufacturing or agricultural, are regarded
with suspicion, and shunned as innovations;
even new implements of labour are rejected as
hazardous and unnecessary; while the luxu
rious climate and fertility of soil, by lessening
the demand for labour, tend still further to
enervate the population. To this mental and

256 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
physical debility is owing much of the back
ward and unprosperous state of commerce and
agriculture. I have before alluded to the unfortunate
geographical isolation of the country ; not
content with being divided from the rest of
the world by seas, mountains, and deserts,
however, the Mexicans have further increased
these barriers, by continually adopting an op
pressive and injuriously restrictive commercial
policy. The prohibitory tariff preceding this
chapter, will shew how miserably confined are
the notions of successive Mexican legislatures,
on this subject. If foreign goods are landed
at all on the shores of the republic, it is
under every possible discouragement and dis
advantage ; and thus less capital is circulated
throughout the nation, fewer profitable invest
ments are presented to the wealthy, and the
prices paid by the poor population for neces
sary articles are ruinous and exorbitant.
In addition to the want of capital and
labour, rents of houses and land in the cities
of Mexico are enormously high ; insomuch
that none but the very wealthy can reside in
good houses and decent neighbourhoods. This
tends still further to increase the separation of

POVERTY AND EMBARRASSMENTS. 257
rich and poor : the respectable " middle class"
has scarcely any influential existence in this
Republic. The financial difficulties of the government
have frequently been most urgent ; and it is a
long period since the state exchequer was in
a flourishing or satisfactory State. So heavily
have these embarrassments weighed upon the
presidents and legislature ofthe country, that
even the most upright and vigorous ruler has
possessed comparatively little power for good ;
and there is at present but slight probability
of increased prosperity.
It has been seen in the course of the fore
going chapters, that the number of mendi
cants and robbers in the republic is very
great, and that their solicitations are most
obtrusive and audacious ; that the annual
statistics of crime and imprisonment are alarm
ing, considering the somewhat scanty popu
lation ; that there are no poor-houses or
asylums for the reception of the destitute
and incapable poor; and that the laws are
frequently of little avail for the protection of
life and property, or for the prevention of
smuggling on the sea-coasts.
The condition of Indian labourers, both at
VOL. II. s

258 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
the mines and farming haciendas — the little
encouragement they have to labour, and the
severe treatment they receive at the hands of
their employers — have also been alluded to :
and the Author would be gratified could his
remarks prove serviceable to them, by attract
ing attention to the subject; for there is a
very wide field for exertion in ameliorating
their helpless and degraded state.
The fine arts, as will have been observed
in the account of the Art Academy, are at a
low ebb in Mexico; but considerable ability
exists in the inhabitants (devoid, it is true, of
high cultivation) for the art of carving small
figures and ornamental work. Scientific music
also is in a backward state, though great taste
is often evinced in producing harmonies by
the ear, and richly-toned voices are very
common. The manner of recruiting the army has
been described, with the frauds often practised
by officers, the uncertain pay of the soldiers,
and the exaggeration of numbers continually
made at head-quarters. The insolence, amus
ing indolence, and sangfroid, so often observ
able in Mexican tradesmen and shopkeepers,
have also been glanced at in former chapters.

REDEEMING QUALITIES. 259
Reputable and prosperous physicians are
not wanting in the better neighbourhoods of
Mexican cities, and great skill and attention
are often evinced by them; but it must be
said that in poor and remote districts much
suffering is caused by the difficulty of obtain
ing good medical aid, and by the ignorance or
carelessness of practitioners. Numbers perish
through want of requisite care and medicine.
Lawyers abound in the republic, and, both at
the mining establishments and country estates,
their services are in frequent requisition.
The state of society in this country — al
though compliments are profuse, and personal
decorations expensive and elaborate — is sus
ceptible of much greater polish and refinement.
Too often, as in more favoured communities,
external show, glitter, and ceremony, are
studied in place of true politeness of feeling
and consideration for others. Inexpensive
social entertainments are not sufficiently popu
lar ; and female influence is held in far too
little esteem.
The numerous good points in Mexican
character of the better class, have been dwelt
upon elsewhere, — their hospitality, sincerity,
courtesy, and bravery, as also their jealousies

260 pictures of Life in Mexico.
and weaknesses, together with the dangerous
and repulsive qualities of the lowest grades of
the population.
It is needless again to refer to the almost
matchless variety and beauty of the scenery of
Mexico, or the richness of its mineral and
vegetable productions ; inasmuch as some idea
of these may have been gathered, it is hoped,
from several of the preceding chapters.
As may be conjectured, literature, properly
speaking, has scarcely an existence in this
country. There are a few newspapers, but
they are of a very inferior grade, and do but
repeat the information received froni one paper
to another, in turn. Slender rows of Spanish
books may Occasionally be perceived on the
shelves of the wealthy classes ; but, to the vast
proportion of the community, books are literally
" sealed." A show of learning is kept up at
the convents of the republic, and the holy
fathers sometimes profess a fondness for books
and authors; but their knowledge is almiost
universally shallow, and their attachment is
generally assumed.
The language spoken in Mexico is the
Spanish; it is for the most part uttered
fluently and melodiously among the upper

SPEECH AND EDUCATION. 261
classes (who are of Spanish descent) ; while
among the lower orders, great attachment is
evinced towards old Indian, or Aztec, words
and phrases, and this fondness often influences
both their ideas and pronunciation. There is
little or no slang, or conventional abbreviation,
in use in the republic; the speech of the
people, on the contrary, inclining to the
elaborate and redundant; the vowels are
usually dwelt upon in pronunciation, and
pronounced in a full and musical manner.
The subject of education is one of the most
promising- of future good, presented by the
republic at the present time. As has been
before observed, there are subscription Lan-
casterian Associations in various parts of the
country, where children are instructed gratis,
with evening schools for adults. There are
also government establishments for the tuition
of the young of both sexes, in numerous
dountry departments ; these schools are in
spected and supported under the direction of
the town councils, where the children are
furnished with books without charge.
The capital contains four collegiate esta
blishments; and there is a Government
normal school for the instruction of soldiers

262 PICTURES OF LIFE IN MEXICO.
in the army. It is to be feared that the
Mexican priesthood are, privately, even more
averse to the progress of knowledge, than the
old Spanish ecclesiastics; yet despite all ob
stacles and opposition, there is good reason
to believe that education will be more generally
diffused among the people, from year to year ;
and that it will become the means of pro
ducing the noblest and most beneficial changes
throughout this degraded country.
It appears highly probable, that the poli
tical future of Mexico may be influenced in
no ordinary degree, by the government of the
United States of America. Since the war
between the two countries, American habits
and opinions have steadily gained ground;
the Mexican republic adopting the United
States for its model in many particulars.
There are not wanting politicians in the United
States, who already " realize," in imagination,
the Mexican territories as brilliant appendages
to their own ; nor are others unfrequently met
with, who complacently regard Mexico as
lying " in their path of empire."
However this may result, any movement,
having the effect of releasing the community
from the oppressive bondage of superstition —

POLITICAL FUTURE. 263
of enlightening and instructing the grossly
ignorant — of infusing new energy into the in
dolent and enervated — of lessening the terrible
amount of crime at present prevailing — and
of placing truth and religion in a purer and
more elevated light, would confer a benefit,
not on the country of Mexico alone, but on
mankind.

THE END.

London :
Printed by Stewart & Murray,
Old Bailey.

YALE UNIVERSITY

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