i^Yf*f* »: m C(\.2,8 ^^-O CB SWAMPSCOTT : HISTORICAL SKETCHES OF THE TOWN. By WALDO THOMPSON, Member of the New England Historic Genealos^ical Society. L YNN : PRESS OF THOS. P. NICHOLS, 1885. Copyrighted, iSSs, by WALDO THOMPSON, LYNN, MASS. _kh% ')"b^' PREFACE The writer of local sketches like these has two sources of satisfaction, in knowing first that critics will not judge his work by the strict canons which control more dignified historical compositions, and secondly, that his readers will be more interested in the facts set before them than in their literary dress. Then, aside from the common interest in their birth place and home which any ¦wrriter may assume of his townsmen, a Swampscott historian may fairly expect some special interest in his efforts. The claims of localities to recognition by the world have commonly been either the possession of great natural beauty or picturesqueness ; or associations' with important his toric names or events. Now in both these resaects Swampscott is entitled to consideration. Two hun dred and fifty years ago her picturesque shore, from Black Will's Cliff to Forest River, became the home of Lieutenant-Governor John Humphrey, one of the great men of our rising Commonwealth. He had not come over with the large company under Governor Winthrop, biit remained in England until 1634, to IV PREFACE. represent the interests of the Colony before the King. So efficiently did he perform this service that on. his arrival he was given, of the the finest estates in the gift of the government. Here, with his wife, the Lady Susan, daughter of the Earl of Lincoln, he be gan the establishment of a manorial home, vvhich should remind them of the noble estates with vvhich they were familiar in their native land. If their modest mansion could not compete vvith the stately halls, which they had left, nature had been lavish of her charms, so that no ducal park in England could surpass their estate in its vistas of meadow and sea and forest glade. That th^y appreciated this beauty is made probable by letters afterwards written from Eng land by their pastor, the Rev. Hugh Peters, ininister in Salem, with whom Mr. Humphrey was very intimate. We can picture him spending an autumn afternoon with his parishioners, talking with the Governor of the great events portending in England, and walking out with the family upon the cliff, while the Lady Susan delighted in pointing out this and that landscape of beauty, and comparing it with some scene of cherished memory. At all events their pastor acquired an ap preciative familiarity with the beauty of our shores. Having returned to England upon some diplomatic mission for the Colony, Peters became a warm friend of Oliver Cromwell, and was induced to stay and help in forming the English Commonwealth. He preached a funeral discourse over " the gray discrowned head" of Charles I. After- the death of Archbishop Land, PREFACE. Parliament presented to him his library. From this library at Whitehall, he writes of his love for New England, and of its natural beauties, as he might have admired them in company with his most distin guished parishioners, when, at their home in Swamp scott. Though the Humphreys returned to England, their name still clung to the hamlet where they had lived, and is now perpetuated in our principal street. They left also some of their children, as is suggested by the picture of their einbarkation off the cliffs ; and from these have descended citizens of whom the coun try is justly proud. Among others, old John Brown, our " martyr for the rights of man," traced his backward to the Swampscott Humphreys. Of the successors to the Lieutenant-Governor's es tate, the " Ladye Deborah Moodye," who had once been dealt with by the famous Star Chamber Court, was a person of no little consideration in the Massa chusetts Colony ; and afterward came to have great influence with Governor Stuyvesant in directing the affairs of New York. Later, the Burrills, who held the estate for a century, furnished meri who were highly esteemed in the colonial councils, and who were entrusted with some important diplomatic duties. If other Swampscott families have had less distin guished associations, they have not been wanting in those sterling virtues of industry and courage which are necessary to the founding of communities. In a conspicuous place in the Representatives' Hall of Massachusetts has hung for many years a cod, sug- VI PREFACE. gestive of the most important industry of the infant commonwealth. That industry found in Swampscott efficient promotion, and to this day Swampscott fisher men hold such pre-eminence on the coast for high char acter and self-respecting devotion to duty, that the town may well be proud of its seal. The Bear of Berne, the Lion of Lucerne, are no truer badges of honor than is the Schooner of Swampscott with its hardy skipper at the helm. And our men of the sea have done more than increase their country's vvealth. None have been more forward than they to maintain in battle her life and honor. In old colonial times we had our repre sentatives at the siege of Louisburg. Swampscott fired one of those ' ' shots heard round the world " at Lex ington. Then, in 1812, our fleet helped man the ves sels which disputed successfully with the mistress of the seas, and brought home many a British trophy . Next to our brave men, we are proud of our old can non, bearing the royal arms, which was captured by the ship " Grand Turk," and awarded to Swampscott. After commanding our harbor for many years from Winnipesikett Hill, it now rests in its appropriate place in Monument Square, at the foot of the shaft which commemorates the brave men who in the War of the Rebellion, on sea and land, emulated the deeds of yore. To enlarge now upon the picturesqueness of our shores, the romantic beauty of our walks and drives, and the attractiveness of our fine estates, would seem PREFACE. Vll to US to be calling a circle round, the heavens blue, or the ocean wide. We permit others, therefore, to speak our praises, only inviting them here to rest from their toils, and find delight in sea and shore. Let them come in the heat of summer and lie dreamily upon the shore, watching '* The fisherman in his boat, far out Beyond the headland ; '' Or let them come again in autumn, when the storms have set in, *' And down the darkening coast run The tumultuous surges;" Whenever it is, we shall contentedly await their verdict upon our shore. Swampscott, January i, i88j. AUTHOR'S ACKNOWLEDGMENT. In issuing in this form, articles which, when first published, I ha^ no thought of ever making into a book, I would tender my grateful acknowledgments to the numerous individuals, who, in various ways, have kindly given me their aid and encouragement. The " Humphrey Family in America," by Frederick Humphrey, M.D., has given me much information in regard to Sir John Humphrey and his family. For many statements herein presented, I am indebted to printed works and written communications from sev eral highly esteemed authors and respected friends, among whom I would mention Alonzo Lewis, James R. Newhall, and David N. Johnson, Lynn histo rians ; also to B. J. Lindsey, Town Clerk of Swamp scott ; the Selectmen of the town ; Horace N. Hastings, editor of Swampscott Enterprise, and Rev^. George A. Jackson. The Author. May I, 1885. CONTENTS CHAPTER I. FIRST SETTLERS. CHAPTER II. ORIGIN OF THE NAME SWAMPSCOTT. CHAPTER III. THE HU.MPHREY FAMILY. CHAPTER IV. RALPH KING. CHAPTER V. OTHER OLD FAMILIES. CHAPTER VI. THE SEA SERPENT. CHAPTER VII. FISHING INTERESTS. CHAPTER VIII. ALONG THE SHORE. CHAPTER IX. POLITICAL AND OTHER NOTES. CONTENTS. CHAPTER X. CHURCHES, REFORM AND BENEVOLENT SOCIETIES. CHAPTER XI. ORGANIZATION OF THE TOWN. CHAPTER XII. TOWN IMPROVEMENTS. CHAPTER XIII. SCHOOLS. CHAPTER XIV. WAR RECORD. CHAPTER XV. BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. CHAPTER XVI. SWAMPSCOTT AS A WATERING PLACE. CHAPTER XVII. SUMMER RESIDENTS. CHAPTER XVIII. YACHTING. CHAPTER XIX. BEACH BLUFF. CHAPTER XX. THE POINT. CHAPTER XXI. THE MUDGE ESTATE. HISTORICAL SKETCHES OF SWAMPSCOTT. CHAPTER I. FIRST SETTLERS. A settlement by the Pilgrim Fathers, a band of Puritan exiles from England, who had first sought refuge in Holland, was made at Plymouth, on the shore of Cape Cod Bay, on the 21st of December, 1620. The exiles came to found a colony, and en dured their trials with a heroism, the memory of which their descendants gratefully cherish. Before landing in America they organized a government in the cabin of the Mayflower, the ship which brought them from foreign shores. In 1628, a colony of about one hundred Puritans, under Captain Endicott, was planted at Salem, they taking the name from Psalms Ixxvi : 2 : — "In Salem also is his tabernacle, and his dwelling place in Zion." The name was given to its whole territory along the shore. Rev. Thomas Hig- 3 HISTORICAL SKETCHES ginson and three other clergymen, together with about two hundred others, settled in this vicinity. FRANCIS INGALLS. Of that little band, were Francis and Edmund In galls, who, in 1629, started from Salem, with" leave to go where they would." It was in the early part of June when Francis and his brother arrived in what is now Lynn. Francis Ingalls was a tanner, and was born in England, in 1601. Edmund was a farmer, and settled near what is now Goldfish Pond, Fayette Street. He was drowned, in crossing Saugus river, in 1648, leaving a wife named Ann, and nine chil dren, whose descendants are numerous. Francis set tled in that portion of the town which was incorpora ted as Swampscott in 1S53 ; as has been quaintly sung : — " Two hundred years are gone And three and fifty more, Since tjoodman Francis Ingalls First trod the Swampscott shore." He found the place inhabited by Indians, with their wigwams extending from Black Will's Cliff along the whole North Shore. He commenced at once to erect a log cabin, and appropriated to himself such portions of land as appeared most eligible for cultiva tion. *' Ingalls'" house was a cabin of logs Of logs, with mud chinked in, Outside it had a chimney of stone. And a stone fire-place within." ingalls' log CABIN, 1626. FIRST TANNERY IN NEW ENGLAND, 1632. OF SWAMPSCOTT. He also built the first tannery in New England, in 1633, on the easterly side of his home, and near Hum phrey's Brook. The vats remained there until 1825 ; when they were taken up a hide was found- in one of them in a good state of preservation. It has been the custom of tanners ever since to locate, when the}' could, by the side of a running brook. From this beginning in Swampscott has sprung an industry of no mean proportion. In 1880 there were 330 tanneries in New England, distributed as follows : Maine, S3 ; Massachusetts, 133 ; New Hampshire, 53 ; Vermont, 53 ; Rhode Island, 4; Connecticut, 11. Francis Ingalls' log cabin was built on land now known as the corner of Burrill and New Ocean Streets. When a house was built on the lot, by Horace M. Norton, he found relics of the log house and the stone chimney. Frederick O. Ellis, prin cipal of the Norcross School, in South Boston, now owns the estate, enjoying his residence where the first house was built, in 1629. The Ingalls family have a fine [imaginary] picture of the log house, tannery and surroundings, executed by the artist, T. C. Oliver. As appears from marks since found, the log cabin must have been about sixteen by thirty feet, facing due south, as was the custom in those days and for many years afterward, to enable the occupants to secure the greatest benefit from the sun in winter, and also to tell the time of day by marks upon the window- sill. The luxury of time-pieces were then unknown, and during cloudy weather the hour-glass was used. HISTORICAL SKETCHES The house was covered with flags and rushes that grew near at hand in the pond, which was large in those days, and whose outlet was by the (what is now Stacey's) brook, to the sea at King's Beach. Toward the west, one mile away, he could see the smoke of his brother's fire, as it curled upward in the clearing. In full view was the ocean and what is now Egg Rock. Fish in abundance could be found in the bay, while shell fish were captured by the shore, on whose smooth surface the Indian Chief .Squanscot danced and mingled his song with the roar of the waves. Francis Ingalls lived in Swampscott during the greater part of his life, and died at the age of seventy-one years. He made his will August 12, 1672, and it was probated in Boston, November i, 1673; his in ventory was filed November 30, 1672. A copy ofthe will and inventory, the writer secured at the Probate Office in Boston, and it is given in full below. FRANCIS INGALLS' WILL. In the name of God, Amen. I, ifrances Ingalls, being weak in bodye But of perfect and sound vinderstanding, doe make this my last will and Testa ment, revoking all other wills by me formerly made Imp'rs first I bequeath my soule into the hands of Allmighty God, my creatore, and unto Jesus Christ my Redeemer, and unto the holy spirit, my comforter : and my bodye to be decently interred, by my survivors. And my will is that all my debts and funeral charges be discharged by my executors, hereafter mentioned. Item, my will is that all my estate, movable and Imovable, I doe give unto my beloved wife Mai-y Ingalls OF SWAMPSCOTT. (whom I doe make sole executrix of this my last will) for the sustentation, support and comfort of her life whilst she continue in this world. And my will is that when it shall please God to take her out of this world that then after my debts be discharged, and my son Joseph belknap satisfied for his disbursements that then what there shall remaine unto Elizabeth farman now living at Andover, my will is that she shall have. In witness there of I have set to my hand and seale this twelth of August one Thousand six hundred and seventy-two. his Witness— FFRANCES X INGOLS. Peter Brackett. mark. Jabez Salter. Peter Brackett made oath in Court this 1 Nov'r, 1672, made oath that having subscribed his named as a witness was pre sent on the day of the date of this will and saw ffrances ingolls signe, seale and publish this as his last will and Testament and that when hee so did hee was of disposing minde to mv best understanding. As attests ISAAC ADDINGTON, Cler. After mentioning a few minor articles, the inven tory filed November 30, 1672, was as follows : INVENTORY OF ESTATE. 5 acres of medow at Lyn at 5 pounds, £25. A piece of land inye wilderness at Lyn, 2 coats, 2 pairs of breeches, i pair draws, and a lether dublet, and a wescoat, i hat and a pair of stockens, i pr. shoes, 3 prs. pillows, 3 napkins, 8 pieces of old pewter, i Iron KittoU, a frying pan, i Bible and another book, a warming pan, and dripping pan 3 chairs 4 historical SKETCHES cushons, a spining wheele 2 silver spoons. Dues to his estate from Nicholas Rich I7£ 17s. Dues to his estate from Thomas Taylor ii£. Francis Ingalls was the progenitor of the Ingalls family of Swampscott, and one of its members, Fran cis Edmund Ingalls, of Burrill Street, was named for the two brothers. " The good old founders of our race Wrought out their own way with toil. And left to us a record proud, On old New England soil." George Keysam, a tanner in Swampscott, and who was admitted a freeman in December 14, 1638, was probably connected with Mr. Ingalls' establishment. He married Elizabeth Holyoke, and had a son, who died in Salem, 1690. CHAPTER II. ORIGIN OF THE NAME SWAMPSCOTT. The name Swampscott is of Indian origin. Of the great Algonkin family of Indians who peopled this country from Canada to South Carolina, and from the Atlantic to the Rocky Mountains, those who lived in this vicinity were known as the Massachusetts or Natick Tribe. Into their language the Apostle Eliot translated the Bible. Here we may look for the elements of our name. It is coraposed of two Indian words, a substantive, Ompsk, and an appellative, Musqui, meaning respectively (a standing) rock, and red: with the local affix " ut." Musqui-omfsk-ut means Hterally " at the red rock." This by con traction became M'squompskut, and then, the English dropping the initial m, Squampskut, Swampscot, Swampscott.* * For this etymology, acknowledgment should be made to the '* Collec tion of the Connecticut Historical Society," Vol. II., page i8. The writer has also been curious to consult Eliots* Bible in its use of the above root words (for rock and red^, and is convinced that the etymology is correctly traced. The change from the harsher Squam to Swam would naturally enough be niade bythe English, though in some cases, as in Annis Squam the rough sound was retained. HISTORICAL SKETCHES Confirmatory of process of change in the name of Squamskut, an old Indian chief who resided near the Merrimac River, told the whites: " My tribe has been accustomed from time immemorial to go south to the plains every year to pass the summer months." About the year 1809 the late Colonel Leonard Tliomp son, of Woburn, saw a rough sketch of the old chief tain in Billerica, THE INDIANS. The Indians were numerous here before white men trod our shores. Bones of Indians have been found on Wm. Rowell's land, and workmen while digging a trench for water pipes near the grammar school- house found two skeletons, with shells and arrow heads. They were buried with their faces towards the south. The Indian time for planting was when the leaves ofthe oak started forth in the spring. The women performed all the labor of agriculture, using clam shells for tools. Fish bon^ were used for hooks, and wild hemp was made into fish lines. Their money was of two kinds — one made of the twisted part of the conkle, and called wampum-play, or white money, the other of the thick or hinge part of the poquahoe clam, and called suckauhoc, or black money ; these were bored with a sharp stone, and one black piece was equal to two white ones. The Indians are said to have received the first settlers here OF SWAMPSCOTT. 9 in a friendly manner, and thought their ship was a winged island, and the sound of the cannon they mis took for thunder. BLACK WILL. The Indians on the North Shore claimed the land. Poquanum, or Duke Skin, was Sachem, and was known as "Duke Wiilliam," and commonly as " Black Will," in 1630. William Witter who was a farmer, and lived near what is now the estate of Benjamin G. Ingalls, testified that "Mr. Dexter gave a suit of clothes, two stone pestles and a jewsharp for Nahant and Black Will's Cliff"." The parties occupied the entire day in making the trade, and it was not until Mr. Dexter had gone four miles through the woods, and played sixteen tunes on the jewsharp, before the assembled tribes, to convince them that the tongue was not leather, that he secured what he thought to be a good title to the land. The town afterwards treated the bargain as void, declaring that Black Will's deed was " of no more value than the scratch of a bear's paw," and the matter was finally settled ad versely to Mr. Dexter. In 1633, several vessels which had been sent to Pemaquid, in pursuit of pirates, stopped at Scarborough, Me., where, finding Black Will, they hung him, in revenge for the mur der of William Bagnall, who was killed by the Indians in October, 1631. 4 10 HISTORICAL SKETCHES GENERAL NOTES. In 1630, the first brickyard was established in Swampscott on the northerly side of Humphrey's brook, near Ingalls' tannery. In November, 1632, a vessel of which John Hum phrey was part owner, and which was laden with fish was wrecked oft' Cape Charles, and twelve men drowned. The summer of 1634 was very hot, and there was no rain for six weeks preceding October 14. In 1634, Samuel Smith, a farmer, lived near what is now the farm of Colonel Stetson. The tide rose to a very great height during the heavy gale August 3, 1638. In 1638, Edmund and Francis Ingalls were granted one hundred and twenty acres of upland and meadow, by order of the Court. In 1639, the Court forbade the people to spread bass and codfish upon their lands, for the purpose of enriching their soil, and also passed the following re lating to ladies' dress : — " No garment shall be made with short sleeves, and such as have garments with short sleeves shall not wear the same unless they cover the arms to the wrist; and hereafter no person what ever shall make any garment for women with sleeves more than half an ell wide, that is, twenty-two and one-half inches." CHAPTER III. THE HUMPHREY FAMILY. Humphrey elected Deputy Governor. — Arrival in 1634. — Estate in S-watnpscott . — Departure. Upon the formation in England of the Massachu setts Company, which purchased from the English Council of State a patent for lands on these«shores, where " Non-conformists might enjoy the liberty of their own persuasion in matters of worship and church discipline." John Humphrey, an able and wealthy gentleman from Dorchester, was chosen Deputy Gov; ernor. When Governor Winthrop's company came over in 1629, Humphrey remained behind to look after the home interests of the Colony. He came in 1634, bringing with him various useful gifts for the infant settlements. In recognition of his rank and services he was granted a valuable estate at Swamp scott. In old Massachusetts records, of the year 1635, I find under date of May 6, the following: " Further it is ordered that the land between the Cliff" and Forest River near Marblehead, shall for the present be improved by John Humphrey, Esq." " 12 HISTORICAL SKETCHES The bounds extended a mile from King's Beach to a point near a great white oak, which stood until recent times, and which called out from Mr. Lewis the lines : — '¦ O, spare the tree, whose dewy tears Has fallen for two hundred years." Upon this estate, the Lieutenant Governor* built his house — now the old farm house on the estate of the late E. R. Mudge — having brought the frame and the bricks for the same from England. Within a few years this house has been remodeled, and is now much sought for by summer residents, from far and near. The farmhouse was provided with large fire places nearly eight feet wide, and the mammoth ehimneys would admit a log six feet in length. The frame was large and strong, and in the present day its heavy oak beams are to be seen, sound as in "days of yore." The early settlers of two centuries ago manifested a becoming shrewdness in building with substantial material ; were it not so, we would not have left to us so many of those old houses which to day stand as monuments of the history of " ye olden time." The wife of Mr. Humphrey was of a noble family, being the Lady Susan, second daughter of Thomas, Earl of Lincoln. * Though unquestionably entitled to this appellation, Mr. Humphrey does not appear to have assumed the duties of Deputy Governor on this side of the water. OP SWAMPSCOTT. 13 Besides serving as one of the " assistants" to the Governor, our distinguished townsman became a mem ber of the Artillery Company in 1640, snd in June, 1641, was appointed to the command of all the militia in the county, with the title of Sergeant Major General. Among the incidents of his residence here, the re cords show that in 1640 his barn, with all his corn and hay was burnt, by the carelessness of his servant, Henry Stevens, in setting fire to gunpowder. At the Court of Assistants, on the first of November, Henry 'Stevens was tried, and on conviction was ordered to be servant to Mr. Humphrey for twenty-one years, tow ards recompensing him. The Court also allowed Mr. Humphrey £250 for his loss, and his good services. The Humphrey family remained in- Swampscott until late in the year 1641, when at the desire of the Lady Susan, they returned to England. The change was too great from her high position, as the pride of youth and beauty at the court of the first raonarch in Europe, to this home in the cold and barren wilder ness of Swampscott, occupied by its few lonely log houses and wigwams, round which the Indians were roaming by day, and the wild beasts by night. Her sighs for her native land were too powerful for the lov ing heart of him who had brought her hither to rest. Bidding farewell to those of their children whom they were to leave behind, they embarked from King's Beach, near Black Will's ClifF, only a short distance from their house. They were soon on board, and with sails set and anchors weighed, they took their 14 HISTORICAL SKETCHES last look at these wooded shores, and left for their native country. The estate, which contained about thirteen hundred acres, was sold. The homestead, with the adjoining lands, was purchased in 1641 by the Lady Deborah Moody, who paid for it i£i,ioo. Subsequently the house and a considerable portion of the estate came into the possession of the Honorable Ebenezer Burrill, in whose family it was handed DEPARTURE. down until 1799, when it passed into the hands of Robert Hooper, thence to his daughter, Mrs. W. Reed, who in March 27, 1843, sold it to the Honor able E. Redington Mudge. DANIEL KING. Soon after the departure of Humphrey, most ofthe land belonging to his estate became the property of Daniel King, who was a merchant, and, in 1642, lived OF SWAMPSCOTT. 15 in Swampscott, where " King's Beach" still bears his name. Whether he purchased the homestead property from Lady Moody or not is uncertain, but he seems to have had it in possession soon after she went to New York. In Judge Newhall's history of Lynn (edition of 1883), he says : "The King family were located chiefly about Swampscott, though they owned land in other quarters. They were an enterprising family, and in addition to farming and fishing, car ried on a varied sort of commercial business, their traffic extending even to Barbadoes. * * The in ventory of the estate of Daniel King, Senior, who died May 28, 1672, gives an amount of i:;i,528 9s." GENERAL NOTES. September 4, 1640, there was a great storm and high tides. In October money was very scarce, which caused the value of land and cattle to fall one- half. The winter of 1642 was exceedingly cold, and very deep snow ; and there was great alarm among the colonists, occasioned by the reported determination of the Indians to exterminate them. John Phillips settled in Swampscott in 1650, and he died in 1694. His wife's name was Hannah, and they were parents of two children. In 1651, the Court ordered " that no person who is not worth two hundred pounds shall wear any gold or silver lace or any silk hose or scarfs." 16 HISTORICAL SKETCHES On Sunday, July 12, of this year, three raen of the Baptist persuasion, whose names were John Clarke, J. Crandall and O. Holmes, came from Newport, and went to the house of William Witter, at Swamp scott, "now two miles out of the town of Lynn" says their Chronicle. Mr. Clarke preached and ad rainistered the sacrament and re-baptized Mr. Witter. This having been reported to the authorities, two con stables were sent to Swampscott to apprehend them as disturbei-s of the peace. Having a warrant, they entered the house vvhere Mr. Clarke was speaking, arrested the three strangers, and took them to Lynn. The next day they were taken to Boston, where they were tried and fined thirty shillings. One ofthe men refusing to pay the fine, he was severely punished. Mr. Witter was brought before the Salem Court in November for " neglecting discourses and being re- baptized." In 1656, John Blaney, whose house was near Blaney's Beach, was united in marriage with E. Purchise. A road from Lynn to Marblehead, over the Swamp scott beaches, was laid out July 5, 1659. March 8, 1661, Richard Saltonstall bought a lot of land, and it was recorded as being in Swampscott. This year, also, nine acres of Swampscott land was purchased by Robert Ingalls. In the year 1671, Daniel King made his will and spoke of the' property being in " Swampscott," and not in Lynn, OF SWAMPSCOTT. 17 In 1678, Indian corn was two shillings per bushel. When the Indians had mostly retired from this part of the country it was thought important that their titles should be conveyed to the settlers, and up to 16S2 many deeds were given and recorded. CHAPTER IV. RALPH KING. Laud Titles. — Ralph King's Deed. LAND TITLES. The writer has a copy of a plan of land in Swamp scott, surveyed by Joseph Burney at the request of Eben Burrill. The lot contained six hundred and fifty-four acres and eighty-eight poles. There were only five houses on the land, situated as follows : — That of Walter Phillips, Sen., at Phillips Point, near Phillips Beach; Walter Phillips, Jr., on the C. P. Curtis estate (^1883) ; Eben Burrill, on the Mudge estate; Joseph Blaney, on Black Will's ClifF; and Jacob Phillips, near the residence of the late Joim P. Palmer. Only two of the above are now standing (18S3). Captain Ralph King mortgaged the prop erty with the others to William Brown, of Salem. The boundaries commenced at Red Rock, following the shore to Phillips Beach, thence across Long Pond to Paradise Road (so named at the present day), through Mudge's Woods, and thence westerly to the SWAMPSCOTT. 19 Starting point. A copy of the plan raay be seen in the Town Library room, presented to the Library by the writer. RALPH KING. Ralph King, one ofthe Selectraen of Lynn (Swamp scott), in June, 1681, when he was about forty-two years of age, with the aid of some others, ran the Lynn line between Lynn and Boston. He married Mary Elizabeth Walker, of Lynn, in March, 1663. He passed away in about 1670, leaving to his son his estate at Fisher's Point, now called Phillips Point, Swampscott. RALPH king's deed. The following is a copy of a deed given July 28, 1684, by Ralph King to William Brown. See Reg istry of Deeds, vol. 29, page 281 : — To all xtian people to whom this present deed of Sale shall come Ralph King of Linn in new England & Elizabeth his wife send greeting. Know yee that wee the sd Ralph, and Elizabeth King for and in consideration of the Sum of Three hundred pounds in money in new Engid to us in hand before the encealing & delivery of these presents-, well & timely paid by William Brown, Esq., of Salem in New England, the receipt where of wee doe here by acknowledge, and our selves there with to bee fully satisfied and paid. Have given, granted, bargained, sould, aliened enfeoffed assigned and confirmed, and by these presents do freely, fully and absolutely give, grant, bargain 20 HISTORICAL SKETCHES sell alien enfeoft", assigne and confirm unto the Sd. William Brown, his heirs and assigns, all that my ffarme given me by my hounrd ffather, Daniel King, deceased, being 1200 acres of Upland and meadow, bee it more or less, being situate and lying in the township of Linn commonly called by the name of Swampscott, which land is butted and boundgd with the sea, ab't the westerly end ofthe long pond lying along by the sea syde and soe upon a straight line quite over to a little red oak, standing on a brow of a hill, on the southerly syde of a path goeing to my ffarme where George Darlinn, did live which tree is markeawith (D : & A k) on the notherly syde, and an R & A K on the westerly syde, & soe this lyne runn betweene Lynn & my ffarme & soe to run all along betweene Linn & my ffarme, to a running brook at the sutherly end of John Farrs & Edward Richards Lotts, and over Swampscott pond to a little walnut tree on the westerly syde of the pond, marked with (R K) on the northerly side with (N F) and soe to run westerly to another walnut tree marked with (R : K :) on the syde and (N : F :) on the northerly, and is bounded on ye northerly syde with the land of Ezekiel Needham, and soe all along upon a brow of a hill westerly, and soe to the highway that goes to Linn, to a. stake & heap of stones, & from thence southerly down to the sea, against the high way. Together with all fences, walds, waters, intercourses, liberties, privileges and appurtenances whatsoever thereunto belong ing, and all o' Estate right, title and interest of in and to ye s'd bargained premises, or any part or parcel there of with all original deeds, wrightings & evidences touching or com mencing the same — faire and uncancelled to have and to hold the above bargained premises and every part and parcel thereof unto him Ye Sd William Brown, his heir and assigns to his & their only proper use, benefit and behoofe for ever, and we the Sd Ralph and Elizabeth King for o'r selves o'r heirs, Exec'rs and Adm'rs doe covenant promise and agree to and with Ye Sd William Brown, his heirs and his assigns by OF SWAMPSCOTT. 21 these presents that wee the Sd Ralph and Elizabeth at the time of the encealing and delivery hereof are Ye true and lawful owners of ye above bargained premises us, or either of our heirs Eri'crs Adm'rd or other persons b^' our, or either of our means consent default title or procurement, and that wee shall and will at any time hereafter upon request for that end, made to us or either of us give unto the Sd William Brown, his heirs or assigns such further and complete as surance of all the above bargained premises as in law or equity can be devised advised or required. Provided alwa^'s and it is agreed vipon by and between the partys above named and any thing herein contained notwithstanding that in case the within named Ralph and Elizabeth King and of even- part & parcell thereof and have in ourselves full power and good right and lawfull authority to bargaine sell and assure ye same as a good perfect absolute and indefeasible estate of inheritance in fee simple without any manner of condition, reservation or limitation of use or uses what soever & freely & clerely exonerated acquited and discharged of and from alt former and other bargains, sales, gifts grants mortgages, dowries titles of dowre power of thirds and of & from all other titles, troubles charges & incumbrances of what nature or kinds soever, And without ye least deniall let hindrance so it trouble Eviction, ejection of us ye Sd Ralph and Elizabeth, or either of them, their or either of their heirs, Execrs. Admrs. do well and, truly pay or cause to bee paid unto the above named William Brown, his heirs, execrs. admrs. or as signs at his dwelling house in Salem above S'd the full sum of sixty-eight pounds in current money of New .England on or before the twenty-eighth day of July one thousand six hund red and eighty-five, and sixty-five pounds in current money on or before the twenty-eighth day of July, eighty-six and sixty-two pounds in current money on or before the twenty- eight day of Julyi eighty-seven, and fifty nine pounds in cur rent money on or before the twenty-eight day of July, eighty 22 HISTORICAL SKETCHES. eight and fifty-six pounds in current money on or before the twenty-eight day of July, eighty-nine, and fifty and three pounds in current money on or before the twenty-eight day of July, one thousand six hundred and ninety, without fraud or delay then the above written deed to bee utterly void and of none eft'ect other wise to abide, and remain in full force and virtue to all interests and purposes in the law whatsoever and the estate of the Sd William Brown to become absolute in the premises. In witness whereof wee the Sd Rallph and Elizabeth King have hereunto put our hands and seals, this twenty-eighth day of July, in the thirty-sixth year of His Magisties Reign, Anno. Dom. one thousand six hundred and eighty-four, 1684. RALPH KING, [seal.j ELIZABETH KING, [seal.] The word (my) betweene the fifth and sixth line interlined and ye first word in ye thirty-six line Blotted before signing. Signed, sealed and delivered in presence of BENJA. BROWN, WILLIAM REDFORD. Mr. Ralph King of Lin and Elizabeth his wife came before mee & he acknowledged the above written instrument to bee his act & deed & she delivered up her right & dowre &c there in, Salem, July 28, 16S4. Before mee • JOHN HATHORNE, Assest. Rec'd this 23d of July of Mr. Ralph King the ^ first sume of eighteen pound in money, I say V iS. £. received J Rec'd this 30th of July i686 in money, eigh- "j „ , teen pounds in money, I sav Rec'd p'rme ^ o * ' William Brown ¦ ' [ 18. 00. 00. CHAPTER V. OTHER OLD FAMILIES. The Burrills. — The Ingallses: — The Phillipses. The Blaney s. — The Fullers. — General Notes. THE BURRILLS. Ebenezer Burrill, who was born July 13, 1679, was Representative from Lynn for six years, and in 1731 and 1746 was chosen Councillor. He was sent as Commissionei^to Casco Bay to treat with the Indians on the 17th of July, 1732, and returned August 5. He lived at Swampscott at the place where Mr. Humphrey formerly resided, and died September 6, 1 761, at the age of eighty-two years. He was a raan remarkable for sound judgraent and activity in all useful enterprises. Among his personal property may be found enumerated "one negro slave," named Csesar. When Casar died hewas buried on the Bur rill farm, on the lot now owned by William Rowell, who found and removed the remains to a more quiet resting-place, 24 HISTORICAL SKETCHES THE INGALLS FAMILY. John IngaUs, a descendant of the first settlers of Lynn and .Swampscott, buill a shoe shop in the year 1790, and manufactured wooden heels, a pair of which is now in the possession of his grandson, Fran cis E. Ingalls. The shoe shop is still in good re pair, and is standing on a private way leading from Humphrey Street, near Blaney's Beach, and is known as the " Red Shop." John Ingalls was born Septem ber 14, 1761, and married Martha Blaney in 1782. He died May 2, 1842, and his wife died April 10, 1S42. Joseph Ingalls was born in Lynn, in that section now known as " Woodend," in 1785, in the old "Burrill" house. [The John Ingalls house, which was moved to Swampscott, was originally a shoe shop, and was purchased with the proceeds of a sale of a cow, which -was sold at Woodend for forty dollars. ^Vfter its removal to Swampscott it was enlarged at four difierent times, by the father and son, until it reached its present size. It is now the residence of Elbridge G. Foster. j Mr. Ingalls entertained much Summer company, and the large dining room was well adapted for evening meetings and social gatherings. The house was often the headquarters of the Canter bury and other Shakers, who came to Swampscott in the warm weather, in their covered wagons. In the morning they visited the beautiful cove in front of the present " Lincoln House," to bathe in the salt water, OF SWAMPSCOTT. 25 which gave it the name of the " Shakers' Bedroom." In the evening they would assemble in the large room, and, sitting down, they would spread their white handkerchiefs in their laps and keep time with their hands while singing their evening hymns. In front of the Ingalls house stands an old-fashioned rose-bush which has been blooming every Summer for ninet}' years. The pale white rose, tinted with red, with its heart of gold, is as fragrant to-day as when its soft petals fell in the air that blew frora over the sea long years ago. Joseph Ingalls lived to the ripe old age of eighty years. He was a very benevolent man ; he at tended church at Woodend (Methodist). His sister, Mrs. Abigail Phillips informed me, in 1863, that pre vious to the year 1807 they walked to church in Woodend, across King's Beach, then across the fields near what is now King Street, Lynn, to what was known as the " Piece of King's," where there was a large flat rock. On reaching this rock they would sit down and exchange their coarse shoes and stockings for "peaked-toed" shoes and silk stockings; then leaving the old ones beneath the rock, they went on their way. On their return another change was made, thus keeping their best shoes from the rough walking near the shore. From an old newspaper is taken the following, in relation to Joseph Ingalls: — " The College Bell. ^Last Saturday morning the new bell for the Manhattan College was elevated to its high posi tion. Its great weight rendered it diflficult to raise it safely to its commanding position, but under the masterly skill of 6 26 HISTORICAL SKETCHES J. P. Ryan, who directed the operations, the bell was speedily lodged in its sphere of labor. This bell, the gift of Joseph Ingalls, Esq,, of Mass., is fine-toned, and its clear loud peals can be distinctly heard five or six miles. On the bell is the inscription, 'Presented to BUiemont College, Manhattan, Kansas, by Joseph Ingalls, Esq., Swampscott, Mass., 1861.' The donor, a venerable and noble philanthropist of 77 years, has, by presenting this useful gift to this noble institution, raised a lasting and eloquent memento of his benevolence among the beautiful hills and fertile vales of this far offiand, infinitely more suggestive and eloquent than the most costly marble in the shades of Mount Auburn, If every man of means would devote a part of his wealth to similar objects, these institutions would not long languish for endowments." Ephraim Ingalls, brother of Joseph, wasborn in the year 1805, and died in the year 1873, aged sixty-eight years. He married, in 1824, Elizabeth Cloon, of Marblehead, and they lived next-door neighbors to Joseph. She died at the age of fifty-eight. They had ten children, seven sons and three daughters. Ephraim A., who was borii in the year 1S26, died September 17, 1S82. He learned the shoemakers' trade of his father, but the bench was not active enough for him ; consequently he packed his kit and started on a more active life. He was a student at the " Lynn Academy," and afterward studied law with Abner Goodell, Esq., and was a member of the law firm of Ingalls & Parsons. In the year 1863 he be came a member of Pratt & Babb's Express. Mr. In galls held many iraportant offices, both State and muni cipal, and was City Clerk of Lynn ih 1859 and i860, OF SWAMPSCOTT. 27 Joseph A. Ingalls, brother of Ephraim A., after receiving his education, was a clerk in a grocery-store and post office kept by Waldo Thompson, for a num ber of years. In 1858, he went to Boston as clerk for the-" Mass. Steam Heating Co.," afterwards T. S. Clogston & Co., where he was admitted as a member ofthe firm in 1868. In 1875, the firm was changed to Ingalls & Kendricken. It is now one of the leading firms in the steam-heating business, they being located on Sudbury Street, Boston. Mr. Ingalls has filled the following militarv offices : — Enlisted as private in Co. I, Sth Regiment, M. V., August 20, 1862. Pro moted to Qtiartermaster Sergeant, November 7, 1862, and again to ist Lieutenant and R. Q. M., 8th Reg iment, M. V. After the war he served as ist Lieu tenant and R. Q. M., 8th Regiment, M. V. M. Cap tain and A. Q_. M., 2d Brigade, M. V. M. Captain and A. D. C, 3d Brigade, M. V, M. Major and A. I. General, zd Brigade, M. V. Benjamin Ingalls was a well-known and successful fisherraan of Swampscott in the year 1845. In the year 1829, Miss Judith M. Ingalls, aged ten years, ;ittended Miss Louise Grosvenor's private school, held in what is now the Weeks house, there being about fifteen scholars in the school. While there she worked a sampler, which her teacher de signed for her, witli flowers and vines, for a border, a small house on the right, a weeping willow hanging over a slab, at the left, the family record in the centre, together with these lines, composed by the teacher : 28 Historical skETCkES " Happy the man to whom God sends Obedient children, faithful friends; l-low sweet our daily comforts prove When they are seasoned witli His love! And when by death He takes a friend All should in sweet submission bend. Children and friends and blessings, too, God, our Sovereign, makes them so." Mrs. John R. Honors has this sampler in a good state of preservation. EVENTS IN 1786. , In April, 1786, Benjamin Ingalls, while throwing an anchor from his boat, becaine entangled in the an chor rope, and was drawn overboard and drowned. In December the snow was seven feet deep on a level. James Phillips and Mary Burrill were united in marriage July 7, 1S05, by Rev. Peter Jayne. They had seven children. Mr. Phillips successfully cured and introduced to the market the celebrated " Phil lips Beach dunfish," which in after years were cured by his son, Eben B. Phillips, and since his death by Abner Hayford, of Swampscott. They are widely known and sought for by all lovers of salted fish. James Phillips was one ofthe owners of the first fish ing schooner owned in Swampscott, the " Dove," pur chased in 1795. He is represented as standing at the helm of the "Dove," on the Town seal, adopted in 1S81. Of SWAMPSCOTT. 29 About 1835, Mr. John M. Ives, of Salem, received two or three marrow squash seeds from a negress whose husband was a cook upon one of the merchant ships, Captain Lord from Valparaiso ; he also ob tained the tomato seed in the same raanner as " love apple ;" and after growing them a year or two, back of his store, he was told by a sea captain that they were eatable, and from that time they were used as food. Mr. Ives planted his two or three squasli seeds near his store, and raised many squashes, and sold the seeds for six cents each. Captain Lord also gave Mr. Erastus Ware, who lived on the old Hinckley farm of Marblehead (where his son, Horace Ware, now cul tivates the same squash), five marrow squash seeds; he planted three seeds and gave two seeds to Mr. James Phillips which he planted, and saved all the seeds from the squashes raised, and the next year, Mr. Phillips planted and raised the first marrow squash that was sold in the Boston market. In 1834 Farmer Phillips grew two hundred and eight bushels of corn on one acre of ground. " Put your hands to the plough ; put the plough in deep ; And remember the words for the wise to keep — * As every man sows, shall every man reap,'" Eben B. Phillips was born at Swampscott, July 15, 1808, and died in his 72d year. In 1814, he attended school in the first schoolhouse built in town, which was situated near Whale's Beach. In early life he followed the farming and fishing business, but in 1830 30 HISTORICAL SKETCHES he engaged in dealing in and manufacturing cod liver oil and other oils, and dunfish. He was one of the largest land owners and tax payers in the town. He was president ofthe Marblehead Grand Bank twenty- one years, from 1857 to 187S, and director from 1841 to 1879, thirty-eight years. He was a peculiar man and possessed of great cunning as well as shrewdness. It was his custom about two or three times a week to cany up a cart load of dunfish to Boston, supple mented frequently by an addition of game, such as black ducks, peeps, etc., for- which he was always sure to find a good market and obtain good prices. OIL JOKE. About the year 1854, when Mr. Eben B. Phillips was in the oil business on Fulton Street, Boston, he had a bill against one of his customers that he consid ered uncollectable, and, being one day in the office of a lawyer, with whojn he was a acquainted, he left it with him for collection. After several months had elapsed, Mr. Phillips met tlie gentleman, and inquired what success, if any, he had in collecting the bill ; he replied that he had collected it with interest, but, said he, "Mr. Phillips, to tell you the truth, my business has been so very dull that I have used the money to pay my family expenses, but rest assured, I will pay you every dollar. If you could give me employment at your store, I will work it out." Mr. Phillips said : '' If you desire to cancel your bill in that way, come OF SWAMPSCOTT. 31 to the store Monday morning and I will set you at work, and pay you one dollar an hour. The follow ing Monday morning, at nine o'clock, the lawyer entered the store, and reported for duty. Mr. Phil lips furnished him with a pair of overalls and a frock which he donned, and was shown a pump used for pumping oil to fill barrels from a large cistern in the basement. Soon after commencing work, Mr. Phil lips left the store to attend to other business ; return ing about two hours afterwards, he enquired of Mr. Phillips what became of the oil that was being loumped up ; he replied that it ran back into the cis tern ; then he said, " What good am I doing.?" "You are only working out your bill as you proposed to do." " Then I shall do no raore if such is the case." The joke was too good to keep, and soon it became known among the acquaintances of the lawyer who often referred to pumping oil. Captain William A. Phillips lived and died at what is now Lincoln House Point. He was born in 1798, and died in 1S70, aged 72 years. He was one of the Minute Men at Salem fort, and captain of the Lynn Rifle Company. He was Collector of Taxes in Lynn for a number of years. I have a tax bill receipted by him forty years ago. He was connected with the Salem Custom House for several years, and his head quarters in Swampscott were at the old Red Shop. When Farmer Phillips was manied, many were the surmises among the neighbors as to what his wife would be like, how she wotild dress, et?, The fact 32 HISTORICAL SKETCHES was, Mr. Phillips had taken a position in the village of Swampscott as one of the shrewdest, wealthiest, and most clever, besides being one of the most en terprising, farmers who had settled in that part of Swampscott village. He was looked up to by raany upon important subjects. The farra-house was a one-and-one-half story house with an ell, having three rooms on the first floor, and two in the attic. In the course of twenty years, three additions, were put on, and it was a pretty specimen of a farm-house home stead. A soft green lawn, with green fields, on wliich were a few trees, sloped down from the eastern side of the house to a clean, shallow farmer's pond, where geese and wild ducks cackled and dabbled in the sparkling waters. The front door faced the southeast, and was approached by a short entrance from the old Lynn and Marblehead cart-path. " We sat within the farm-house old, Whose windows, looking o'er the bay. Gave to the sea breeze, damp and cold. An easy entrance night and day." Farmer Phillips kept summer boarders until 1S45, when he rented the house to Daniel Roberts, who had been living with him many years. The house was burned in 1867 ; it was built in 1640. BANKING INCIDENT. The following story was related to the writer by Mr. Roberts, who was living with Farmer Phillips at OF SWAMPSCOTT. 33 the time : " Mr. Phillips was connected with a bank of long standing in Lynn, and the bank had prospered for many years, but at last came a singular event ; from some cause Micajah C. Pratt, the President, wanted Mr. Phillips to bring up all the bags of specie he had, for he anticipated a run on the bank. Mr. Phillips at once carried up the money, and informed Mr. Pratt that if need be he would mortgage his farm at Phillips Point to obtain a further amount for the same use. Mr. Phillips was then regarded as one of the wealthiest men in the East. The late General Sutton also referred to the same incident, relating the story to Rufus Kimball, of Lynn, substantially as follows : Micajah Pratt called at his house in Danvers, informed him that a run was expected on the bank the next day, and asked him if he could afford any assistance. General Sutton an swered that he would see what could be done, and promised to " drive over" to Lynn in the raorning. He then related his adventure to Lynn, in his old chaise, saying that he pulled up in front of the bank, where a large number of people had collected, and inquired if Micajah Pratt was in the bank. Mr. Pratt soon made his appearance, and General Sutton handed out a large number of bags of coin, which Pratt, with the assistance of the bank officers, carried to the vault. The display of money was so formidable General .Sutton said that the "run" ceased, and the crowd dispersed, satisfied that the bank was all right. Gen eral Sutton said that he did not see Micajah for some 7 .34 HISTORICAL SKETCHES weeks afterward, but, meeting him one day, he said, " Sutton, I wish you would come and take away those bags of gold; we have never opened them." "I then told him," said General Sutton, " that the bags were filled with coppers, but I knew they would stop the run on the bank !" In this connection, the following is given in regard to savings banks: Joshua C. Oliver used to enjoy telling a story of a litde Frenchman, in Philadelphia, who loaned his money to Oliver, because he thought him safer than the savings banks. A rumor got abroad that Mr. Oliver had failed, aud the French man went to his counting room one morning, under great excitement, and demanded his money. Mr. Oliver immediately filled a check for the amount due and handed it to his creditor. The Frenchman was surprised, and said : " Mr. Olivere, if you can pay me I do n't want the money, but if you can't, I want it quick!" OLD FARM HOUSE. In 1689, Captain Shubael Walker lived in a farm house, near what is now Humphrey's Square. A few years since the old cellar and bricks were to be seen, and others were to be found in the soil, just below the surface. The late Jona. F. Phillips told me the following, which he said was told him by old settlers : " In the rear of the farm-house was a pig pen, and as the farmer's wife was looking from one of the farm- OF SWAMPSCOTT. house windows, she saw a bear come from the woods, jump into the pen, capture a pig and escape with it to the thick woods on the hill (Clambake)." SAD OCCURRENCE. On the i2th of July, 1830, Joseph Blaney, Thomas Stone, John Proctor and Captain N. Blanchard, left Swampscott in the schooner " Finback," forty-two tons burden, for a fishing trip. When about twelve miles southeast of Minot's Ledge they anchored, and each taking a dory left the vessel, and when sorae distance apart began to fish. In a short time their attention was attracted toward Mr. Blaney, who was standing up in his dory waving his hat. At the same time they discovered that a huge shark was in the dory and was making vigorous efforts to get back into the water. Captain Blanchard started at once for the scene, but suddenly the boat was overturned, and Mr. Blaney, boat and shark, disappeared from his view. The dory soon came to the surface, bottom up, but Mr. Blaney was never seen afterwards, and it is sup posed he was devoured by the " man eater." When searching for the body a few days afterwards, a large shark was captured, which some supposed to be the one which caused Mr. Blaney's death. The shark was placed on exhibition in Boston. The dory was much damaged during the encounter. The following lines on the sudden death of Mr. Blaney, were written by a contemporary poet : 36 HISTORICAL SKETCHES May this event a warning- prove To all the crew, and every friend ; May they adore the God of love, Whc still from dangers will defend. Dark and mysterious are his ways, He gives, and takes but what he gives ; At his command nature decays, And at his word revives and lives. Though hard to part with one so dear, To know he sleeps in ocean's bed; Yet, mourning friends, dry up the tear, His spirit for a while has fled. Vet, a few passing years at most, The earth and sea their dead give up, Then, at the rising of the just, Shall he appear with faith and hope. OLD BLANEY HOUSE. The old Blane}'' house, situated on Humphrey Street, and near Black WilTs Cliff, was built by Captain Ralph King, in 1641, and was occupied by J. Blaney, in 1656. The house is still in good repair, and is occupied by three tenants. The front chamber, up stairs, is now used as a studio, and numerous sketches of Swampscott and vicinity decorate its walls. In the southeast room may be seen the solid oak timbers overhead, about six inches below the plas tering. There may be seen the outlines of a once large fire-place, in which an eight-foot log would look lonesome without others to keep it company, as they blaze and crackle in the fire, " Where glowing embers through the room — Teach light to counterfeit a gloom." OF SWAMPSCOTT. 37 Here also may be found an old-fashioned pitcher, the property of Mrs. Mary Bufton Archer Pierce, bearing the following inscriptions and decorations : Washington securing liberty to America ; Wisdom and Justice directing to Dr. Franklin — an oval- shaped scroll, in the centre of which are these lines : " O, Liberty, thou Goddess, heavenly bright, Profuse of bliss, and fragrant with delight, Eternal pleasures in thy presence reign. And smiling plenty leads thy -wanton train." Outside the scroll are the names of the fifteen States of the Union — New Hampshire, Massachu setts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Verraont and Kentucky. This picture was brought home from England by Mrs. Pierce's grandfather. THE BLANEY CHAISE. In the year 1814, " Daddy " and " Marm " Blaney, rode to church, from the old Blaney house, which yet* stands near Blaney's Beach, in an old, high, square- top, two-wheeled chaise, with large windows in the sides, made to open with iron hooks, or braces, which gave it the appearance of having wings. It was a very stylish vehicle in those days, and no doubt the turn-out was deemed as gay in appearance and form as those belonging to the summer residents of the present day. ;iS HISTORICAL SKETCHES THE FULLERS. In 1 75 1, Mark Graves built a house on the beach side of Joseph Fuller's house, for Daniel Fuller, and Mark Phillips lived in it ; it now stands near the post oifice. [William Fuller's house was built in 1841, near his father's (Joseph Fuller), at Blaney's Beach. He afterwards went to Magnolia, Massachusetts, and sold the house to his son, Daniel W. Fuller. In 1S67, Daniel W. Fuller, removed to Magnolia, and purchasing a large tract of land at the point, he built several cottages, and in 1877 erected the hotel near the shore, now so favorably known as the " Hes perus," which will accommodate about one hundred guests. He was an energetic, liberal-minded busi ness man, a warm friend and a good citizen. He was suddenly killed by falling down the shaft of a mine at Leadville, Colorado, February 19, 1880. The bod}' was brought to Magnolia, and interred in the family tomb.J ECHO LAKE. In former 3'ears, there was a large pond known as "Echo Lake," whicb has since been drained and im proved, and now is known as " Thompson Meadow," on George Newhall's Beuna Vista farm, near Salera line. The late Oliver Questrom once told me it was great feeding ground for wild birds, and he often went OF SWAMPSCOTT. .39 there gunning. He said the first time he fired his gun on the shore of this pond, there came across the water a sound so real, that he thought some one was on the opposite shore, firing towards him, so he shouted to them to be careful, while he went further along the shore. It "was, as he soon found out, caused by the echo. After the pond was drained, there were found many bones of both rare and com mon .species of fish. RUFUS parrott's shoe shop. In 1814, Rufus Parrott had a shoe shop in the upper part of his store, which was located near his house on Cherry Street, Upper Swampscott, then known as " Sodom." Here he eraployed all the shoe- raakers in the neighborhood, which contained only seven dwellings. There were but twenty-five houses in the whole village at that time. Every Saturday Mr. Parrott went to the Bostoii market and sold his goods. BIG GALE. A severe gale in September, 1815, did great damage to trees and fences, and the spray of the ocean was carried a long distance by the wind. A house which was built in 1690, by Walter Phillips, Jr., on what is now Lincoln House Point, was blown down in this gale. A new house -was built on 40 historical sketches the spot, and occupied by W. A. Phillips; at his death, it was sold and removed to a spot nearly half a mile towards the east. first woolen carpets. There was not a woolen carpet in the town or vil lage in the year 1815, and sanded and white polished fioors were to be found in every house. In 1818, however, three woolen carpets appeared in Swamp scott. They were earned by Mrs. Maiy Seger, Mrs. Joanna Blaney and Mrs. Mary Weeks, who bound shoes at home to pay for these luxuries, while their husbands were away fishing. It is safe to say that not all the carpets of the present day are obtained in this manner. SLAVES IN swampscott. Jacob Phillips had a slave, and at his death he was buried in a lot at the east of the Phillips estate, at " Beach Bluff'," so called, in 1884. ANTICyjE AND CURIOUS. Rev. W. H. Rogers has in his possession interest ing historical relics. A cane made from wood taken from a house built in Plymouth, in 1698, on the estate originally owned by Governor Bradford. Apple seeds plucked from apple trees, which were planted OF SWAMPSCOTT. 41 in what was known as the " Old Black Orchard," in Plymouth, in the year 1670. These trees were plant ed by Henry Cobb, who lived while Peregrine White, who was born in the Mayflower, in 1620, was still living. The, trees were of the variety known as the high top sweeting, and were still bearing fruit in 1882, after having stood for two hundred and twelve years. A human jaw dug up from Burial Hill, in Plymouth, in 1881, and supposed to be the jaw of an Indian, so pronounced by corapetent anatomists. Wood from the Washington elm, in Cambridge, under which Washington took command of the American Army, in 1775- Rev. G. A. Jackson has a piece of a mulberry tree, which he brought frora Scrooby, England, the home of the Pilgrim Fathers before they went to Leyden. The tree grew in the garden of the old manor house, occupied by Elder Brewster, and is said to have been planted by Cardinal Wolsey, who once owned the estate. S. T. Beers has a double sugar bowl, an heirloom in the family since 1697; also a finely embroidered bag made by a miss of ten years, one hundred and six years ago. W. P. Martin has an ancient pair of gold balances. The family of Ebenezer Thorndike have two china plates, known to be more than one hundred and eighty years old. A chair formerly owned by .General Glover, of Mar blehead, who crossed the Delaware with the army of 8 42 HISTORICAL SKETCHES Washington, during the Revolution, was presented by him to Mrs. Hannah Phillips, and now is owned by her son, Mark G. Phillips. Captain Joshua P. Small has a plate which was on the " Corona," when she was wrecked at Cape Cod, in 1760. The Stetson family have an arithmetic bearing the date of 1724, and said to have been used by General Washington ; a pin containing a lock of Washing ton's hair ; a shawl one hundred and fifty years old ; a tumbler two hundred years old ; two spoons which were once the property of the celebrated MoU Pitcher. The faraily of S. C. Pitman have a painting repre senting Salome, the daughter of Herodias, bearing the head of John the Baptist, on a charger. It was brought frora England, by Judge Lynd, of Salem, and is a fine work of art. In 1884, " Red Gables," the summer horae of the authoress, Grace A. Oliver, at Phillips Beach, is perhaps one of the rnost unique along the north shore. The large front door is of ancient work. The lock is about 8x12 inches, and the key rerainds the observer of the famous " key of the Bastile," which now hangs in a glass case, on the south wall, in the old mansion at Mount Vernon. The house is filled with many articles of rare furniture collected from far and near. The writer has " The New England Chronology," by Thomas Prince, M. A., printed by B. Edes and F. Gill, in King's Street, Boston, in 1754. The fol- of SWAMPSCOTT. 43 lowing is quoted from it: "Salera, June 12, 1630. The Governor, with these assistants onboard the "Ad rairal,'' and some other gentlemen and gentle women go ashore to their friends at Salem. Many of the other people also landing on the eastern side of the harbour, and regale themselves with the wild straw berries, wherewith the woods are everywhere in these times replenished." Daniel P. Stimpson has in his possession a Testa ment handed down by his ancestors. Testament with annotations, etc., by Rev. S. Smith, D. D., published in London, England, i737- James E. Alger has a large number of almanacs, bearing dates from 1763 to 1796, by Nathaniel Greene, printed and sold by William McAlpine, in Marl borough Street, Boston. The almanac of 1794 has on its calendar page these lines : ' The husbandman contented smokes, Drinlcs cyder, reads the ne-ws; And cracks his nuts, and cracks his jokes. Himself and friends to amuse." GENERAL NOTES. The first paper money was issued in 1690. In 1727, on the 29th of October, a shock of an earthquake occurred. There was a sound as of a chimney on fire, the sea was violently agitated, and stone walls and chimneys were overthrown. 44 HISTORICAL SKETCHES. The winter of 1740-41, was the coldest ever known in New England, and many cattle and sheep were killed. April 4, there were four feet of snow on the ground, and the ice was not wholly melted until July- In 1745^ a house was built by N. Lewis, near Rowe's farm, now Beach Bluff'; a brook then ran through the farm to the ocean. December 9, 1755, a whale, seventy-five feet long, was landed at King's Beach. Dr. Henry Burchsted rode into his mouth in a " chaise," drawn by a horse ; he afterward had two of the bones set for gate-posts, at his house on Essex Street, where they stood for more than fifty years. Many raccoons were shot at Swampscott during the year 1814. In the first week in January, 1850, James Phillips, had five cats killed and skinned at one time, and the warm flesh bound to the body of his sick child, who was ill with the shingles, thereby efl'ecting a cure. In 1879, 'w° tomahawks were unearthed on the E. B. Phillips farm, Swampscott, and proved to be interesting relics of the days of the red man. CHAPTER Vi. THE SEA SERPENT. Seen in 1638 at Cape Ann; in ijgj at Mount Desert; in 18 ig^ 1820 and i84g at Siva7npscott. "I am the Ichthyosaurian old; I lived iri the world before the flood; I 've caught many a fisherman bold ; Our tribe, though few, are of ancient blood. We roam the sea, as we roamed it, when Job and the Prophets roamed the earth ; Some of those wise and godly men Mention me. Since creation's birth I 've been king of the heaving sea. None dare dispute it; far and near The fishes all look up to me; I shall reign forever here." John Bartlett. That singular marine monster, the sea serpent, is said to have first made its appearance near Swamp scott, in 1S19. We have accounts of its appearance as early as the year 1638, when, according to Lewis' History of Lynn, Dr. John Joslyn speaks of '•'• a sea serpent or snake, that lay quoiled up, like a cable, upon a rock at Cape Ann. A boat passing by, with English aboard and two Indians, they would have 46 HISTORICAL SKETCHES shot the serpent, but the Indians disswaded them, saying that if he were not killed outright, they would be in danger of their lives." In a letter to the Salem Gazette., dated Portland, Maine, August 3, 1793, Captain Crabtree, who had lately arrived at Frenchman's Bay, and then at Port land, says: "On the 20th of June last, being on my passage from the West Indies, in the morning, having just made Mount Desert Island, distant nearly ten leagues, I suddenly got sight of a serpent of an enormous size, swimming on the surface ofthe ocean, its head elevated about six or eight feet out of water, rather prone forward. That part of the body which was out of water I judged to be about the size of a barrel in circumference, but the head larger, having some resemblence of a horse's. According to the most accurate computation, which I made in my mind of his length, I think it could not be less than frora fifty-five to sixty feet, and perhaps longer. That part of the body which was not elevated, but of which I had a distinct view several tiraes, was longer than the part out of water ; the body of a dark brown." The same paper stated that " a party, well pre pared, was to have sailed from Marblehead, on Satur day morning, for the purpose of attacking this animal, which, by the last accounts, was near Kettle Island, a short distance this side of Gloucester harbor." In a letter to Honorable Judge Davis, James Prince, Marshall of this District, dating from Nahant, August 16, 1 81 9, gives an account of the serpent, as seen OF SWAMPSCOTT. 47 from Long Beach, one view being so near that his coachman, who was with him, exclaimed, " O, see his glistening eye !" Andrew Reynolds, Jona. B. Lewis, Benj. King and Joseph Ingalls, of Lynn, August 20, 1820, testified under oath as to what they saw of this serpent, the stateraent of Reynolds being as follows, and those of the others being corroborative : I, Andrew Reynolds, of Lynn, of lawful age, depose and say: That on Saturday, the fffth day of August inst., about I o'clock p. M., I discovered in the water, near Phillips Beach, at Swampscut, an animal different from any that I had ever seen before : he was lying on the surface of the water, which was at that time very smooth," and appeared to be about 50 or 60 feet long. Jona. B. Lewis and Benj. King, who work in the same shop with me, also saw him, and we took a boat and rowed towards him ; we approached within about 30 yards of hira, and had a very distinct view of him. He had a head about two feet long, and shaped somewhat like an egg, which he carried out of the water when he was moving. There were several protuberances on his back, the highest points of which appeared to be seven or eight inches above the level of the water. He was perfectly black. When we first drew towards him, he was moving westerly from Phillips Point, and as we drew near to him, he turned and moved to the eastward, and when we got within about thirty yards of him he sank under water and disappeared." Francis Johnson, Jr., of Nahant, testified, July 12, 1823, that in going into the harbor from Nahant, he saw " standing in to Lynn harbor something re sembling a row of porpoises," and two hours after' 48 HISTORICAL SKETCHES wards, saw " about four rods distant, something re sembling the head of a fish or serpent. It then stood eastwardly, at the rate of five miles an hour, with an undulating motion, like that of a caterpillar ; its coior was dark, like that of a porpoise. I firmly believe what I saw to be the animal hitherto described as the ' sea serpent.' " PI. A. S. Dearborn, Nathaniel Amory, Sidney Bartlett, Thomas Whitmore, Richard D. Harris and Russell Jiirvis certify to the veracity of Mr. Johnson, who was a fisherman then, twenty years of age. Later, various persons testify to having seen this monster, among them being the late B. F. Newhall, of S:iugus. In 1S49, John Marston, a fisherman of Swampscott, appeared before me and testified thnt he "saw the whole body of the serpent, not the wake, but the fish itself." So endeth this chapter on the sea serpent. Proba bly the stufl'ed skin of this monster is never destined to adorn the walls of any museum, or his remains to repose in any pickle other than his native brine. CHAPTER VII. FISHING INTERESTS. Old Ti-me Fishing. — The Dove. — The Pinkeys. — The Jane. — Fishing Notes. — The Pinkey Schooner Hornet. — TJie Sivampscott Fleet. — Lobster Fishing. OLD TIME FISHING. "The Indians," says an old writer, "thought the first ship was a walking island, and the masts were trees ; the sails, white clouds ; the discharge of ord nance, thunder and lightning, which did rauch trouble them." After the ship carae to anchor, they went in their canoes to explore the new island. Previous to the year i795 no schooners were en gaged in the fishing business at Swampscott. The fish were very numerous near the shore, and the fisher men went out from the beaches only in dories. In the winter of i795) a few fishermen — James Phillips, Jonathan Blaney, E. Burrill, Beniah Phillips, Joseph Fuller and others — wishing to follow the fish to their feeding grounds, purchased a schooner called " Dove," of about twenty tons burden. 9 50 HISTORICAL SKETCHES *' The ' Dove ' lies tossing; in the bay. How glorious seems the stranger; With tapering mast and streamers gay, She dreams not now of danger." This schooner was engaged in the fishing business until the year i797i when she was driven ashore near "New Cove" in a storm, and became a total wreck. Another schooner named " Lark," sixteen tons bur den, was then bought, but during an October gale, in 1799, she sunk near her moorings. A third schooner was secured and named for the first, " Dove." From that time to the present, the number of dories has greatly increased, and the lone "Dove" has given place to a fleet of first-cli^ss sea-going schooners and lapstreak whale-boats. Two or three hand lines, with one hook each to a man, were generally used until the year 1857, when trawling was commenced, with six hundred hooks to each trawl ; now the number reaches in some cases as high as ten thousand hooks to a trawl. As far back as 1826, the Swampscott fleet num bered six vessels, from twenty-seven to forty tons each, old measurement. These were all ofthe "pink stern " class, without bowsprit or jib, but instead stood a red stern-post, for luck, as a sentinel to guide the boat on her watery way. The boats were called "jiggers" at Swampscott, but at all other seaport towns in Massachusetts, they were known as " Che bacco boats," named for the plate where they were built, now Essex. A few years later, the jib was OF SWAMPSCOTT. 51 added to the two larger boats, the "Laurel" and " Leader,'' and they bore the high-sounding name of pink-stern schooners. From 1818 to 1842 very little improvement was made in constructing and modeling the fishing boats, as regards speed. Although every new vessel was thought to be perfect by her owners, skill and man agement did more to bring out her sailing qualities than did any superiority of model. These boats were not built from any particular design, but by the eye, and from patterns of other vessels. In 1837, Thomas Southard, of Charlestown, Massa chusetts, formed the idea of constructing a boat from a raodel of his own. Mr. Southard had worked on vessels for many years, but until then had never built one. He made what was called a "block model," about two and one-half feet long, from which he took his draughts and molds, laid a keel, and timbered up what was called a " skeleton model." Mr. Southard was very sanguine that his model was one for great speed ; the Boston pilots thought otherwise, when it was shown them. He vainly tried to interest them, and get them to assist him in building a pilot boat, but they ridiculed the whole thing, saying " there was no speed in such a model," etc. Nothing daunt ed, he applied to Sears Brothers, of Duxbury (Ly man, George and William), who were delighted with the model, and readily consented to build the vessel. These men were fishermen, and their business took them daily to the Boston markets in the summer 52 HISTORICAL SKETCHES season. Speed was highly necessary for the work. In the year 1837, the keel of this vessel, destined to be celebrated, was laid at the foot of Captain's hill, at Duxbury. This hill derives its name from being once the property of the renowned Captain Miles Standish, who came over in the " Mayflower.'' Mr. Southard worked with the Sears Brothers until the vessel was planked, and then left them to finish the remainder. The brothers were real fishermen in every respect, but no mechanics, as might be known by the finish of the upper works of this boat. After being launched into her native element, she was a queer looking craft, straight as a plank on deck, her stern neither pink, square nor ellipse, but much re sembling the heel of a last. In due time she com menced her summer trips to Boston, where she was a source of amusement to all who saw her. She was named for the wife of her designer and master builder — "Jane." Many were the nicknames attached to this boat, the most prominent being " Hogs' Trough," but her good qualities were hidden and unseen, as she was soon to prove to the world, that she could " walk the wears like a thing of life." The fame of the "Jane" soon spread through all Massachusetts bay, and especially in Boston harbor, where every one was astonished at the sailing qualities of the vessel. The pilot boats were obliged to succumb to the queer-looking craft, their crews acknowledging their mistake regarding the model, and generously giving the "Jane" credit-for all that was justly her OP SWAMPSCOTT. 53 due. No fishing vessel in the bay was ever more celebrated than the "Jane." The nicknames applied to her gradually wore oft', and she was looked upon with admiration wherever she went. In 1842, the "Jane" was bought by Swampscott fishermen. E. B. Phillips, who always had an eye to great speed in vessels, being the master spirit in the purchase. Another well-known Swampscott fisher man was also eager to become her buyer, and when it was known that the "Jane" was for sale there was sharp work between these two as to which should first close a bargain in the purchase. Mr. Phillips was the fortunate man, having just paid over the sura asked for her as the other party arrived on the spot to buy. One of the owners with Mr. Phillips took along his "pile" bound with a fathom of cod line, and he as well as the other owners, never regretted the investment then made in the "Jane." She was then run as a market boat the year round, and was a success, owing in part to her fast sailing. This suc cess gave a new impetus to the enterprising fisher men, and in a few years the entire fleet was revo lutionized. The model of the "Jane" was a starting point, but soon several ofthe townsmen made models of their own, and to-day Swampscott fishing boats are noted for their stanch build and fine sea-going qualities. Report says that the tide ebbs and flows in the once renowned "Jane," at Kittery, Maine, and that mementoes are still sought for in the hull of this noted schooner. 54 HISTORICAL SKETCHES Much credit is due to Messrs. James A. Knowlton, Walter B. Lowell and Warren T. Small, for improv ing the raodels of former days. Many dories, lap- streaks and seine boats are now built at Swampscott in the shops of Messrs. Small and Ivory Emmons. LOBSTER FISHING. Previous to the year 1808, men and boys would wade in the water, amongst the rocks, and capture lobsters, which were very plenty in these days. About the year 180S Ebenezer Thorndike invented and used a lobster pot or trap, the first used in the State, and began catching lobsters for the market. He then lived in the old "Story" house, recenti}' removed from the lot now owned by Dr. Chase, on the corner of Story's Court and Humphrey Street. The house in its dimensions resembled a good-sized shoe shop, with a small chamber overhead, called the " quarter deck," which was reached by a ladder from the floor below. Here he sowed the seeds of industry, from which he reaped an abundant harvest. He was en gaged in shoemaking, fishing and lobstering. For several years, commencing in 181 7, Captain J. F. Story, W. Phillips (nicknamed "Red Head"), and Cyrus Washburn run a lobster smack to and from" Charlestown, for Mr. Thorndike, who had a lobster market there. When Colonel Charles A. Stetson was proprietor OF SWAMPSCOTT. 00 of the Astor House, in New York, I forwarded to him a live lobster, which weighed raore than twenty- two pounds, it being one of the largest ever caught at Swampscott. It was placed on exhibition at the hotel, and attracted much attention, both while of its original dark green color, and when itwas changed to a bright red after boiling. A lobster, who had by years of patient toil and careful economy accumulated a snug sum of money, cast about him to see how he could use it to deserve the gratitude of the public. The codfish was found posting up his account books, and when informed of the lobster's mission he laid down his pen, and replied, " You have come to the right adviser, my friend. It is needless to inform COD FISH. you that for the last hundred years the cod has had to stay under the water most of the time on account of having no fit clothes to appear on shore. With that money we can rag out with the best, hold our heads with the highest, and we will no longer be quoted in market at a low figure." 56 HISTORICAL SKETCHES FISHING NOTES. Fishing has been in former years the principal business of the inhabitants of the town, for they found, as their forefathers did, fish in abundance. Myriads of codfish sported in Massachusetts bay at the time of the settlement of the town. They were easily caught, and it soon came to be a lucrative busi ness. A haixly and industrious race of men are those " who go down to the sea in ships." Cod, haddock, pollock, hake, a few halibut, mack erel and other fish are caught by vessels sailing from Swampscott. The codfish was rauch sought for by the first settlers at Plymouth, and was one of their chief articles of food. It was an ancient symbol of the colony, and was used on the early stamps. Our free schools were founded and nursed npon the pro ceeds of cod fishing. Our early statesmen suspended a model of a codfish, fronting the Speaker's chair, in the State House. It was first placed there on motion of John Rowe, a member of the House, and who for many years supplied the fishermen with salt and fish ing tackle. Deep-sea seining was commenced about the year 1855 ; it is an interesting sight to see the fishermen cast their seine around a large school of mackerel.. It has been remarked that the fishermen are always loyal and daring. It is said that it was a Marblehead fisherman who removed a British flag and hoisted the first American flag. Swampscott has had many of OF SWAMPSCOTT. 57 her sons in the several wars of the United States, and they did brave and noble service. GENERAL NOTES. John Thoraas came to Swampscott in 1826, from Duxbury, Massachusetts. He was a ship-builder by trade, but here he followed the vocation of a fisher man. He died at the age of seventy-eight, leaving a large family. December 16, 1826, six schooners went out from Swampscott in the raorning, and returned at night with fifty thousand pounds of fish, chiefly cod. Ebenezer Tarbox, of Swarapscott, died August 11, 1827, on board the schooner " Debenture," en route from Hallowell to Boston. About the year 1S28, oil clothing began to take the place of leather, and in a few years, the old, heavy, bungling and expensive equipment, was known no more. One of these suits should have been pre served, but there are none in existence to my knowl edge. In the year 1832 there were ten small vessels, manned by eighty men, engaged in winter fishing, and about sixty dorymen in summer. In 1833, square-stern boats began to make their appearance in Swampscott, and the jib became a per manent fixture with the whole fleet. In order that a fisherman might get his bounty money, it was necessary for him to have a sworn eer ie 58 HISTORICAL SKETCPIES tificate from the man who cured his cod fish, as fol lows : " This is to certify that I have dried and cured, for Captain , two hundred and four quintals of fish, fit for exportation, caught and landed from the schooner , in the fishing season of ." One morning, while Captain Joshua. F. Story, who has followed the fishing business for raore than half a century, was fishing in his dory, near " Pig Rocks," he was suddenly raade aware of the fact that a huge shark had thrust his nose up through the bottom of his boat. The shark quickly withdrawing from the position, left a large hole, through which the water poured. Captain Story, at once seizing his Russia Gauge frock, stopped the hole with it, and made it nearly tight ; his boat being nearly half filled, he bailed out the water, and then made his way home. In 1845, fish were very plenty, and their spawns were put in barrels and shipped to the foreign mar kets, where they were used in the sardine fishery. In the year 1848, John R. Honors went fishing in the schooner " Woodside." One very rough day, while fishing in his boat, off" Tinker's Island, a heavy sea capsized the dory, throwing him into the water. Being clothed in his heavy fishing suit he could not battle successfully with the waves and sank twice. Just as he was going down for the third time Captain Douglass, of the schooner " Bell," reached the scene, and succeeded in saving him. Captain Douglass was keeper of the "lower light" in Boston harbor for many years, OF SWAMPSCOTT. 59 Previous to the year 1855, mackerel were caught by use of hand lines, each man using from one to three jig or fly lines ; but during this year seines for catch ing mackerel were made for and used by the crews of the schooners "Flight'' and "Romp," with good success. In the year 1S55, there were thirty-nine vessels en gaged in the mackerel and cod fishing, aggregating one thousand tons. There were captured five thou sand barrels of mackerel, valued at $50,000, also fifty-six thousand one hundred and sixty quintals of cod fish ; $6300 worth of cod liver oil was sold for medical purposes. A horse mackerel was caught August 20, 1855, which weighed one thousand pounds ; it was ten feet long, and six feet round in the thickest part. A sunfish was also caught ofT Swampscott, which weighed two hundred and fifty pounds. In the year 1856, the schooner "Flight" caught sixty-two thousand and seven hundred pounds of cod fish in thirteen hours ; the schooner "Jane" caught a large trip, and twelve of her fish weighed on an average fifty-six pounds ; Captain Nathaniel Blanchard caught one cod, which weighed ninety-four pounds. Some of the fishermen began to use trawls in 1857. A trawl has from six hundred to ten thousand hooks ; the lines are made of cotton. March 13, 1857, there were one thousand and six hundred pounds of haddock and cod caught by about one hundred men, in twelve boats, in six hours. 60 HISTORICAL SKETCHES Blue fish were very numerous in the summer of 1858, and many menhaden were driven on shore by them. In August, i860. Chandler Lewis caught in his net a swing-tail shark, ten feet in length. In November, i860, as the schooner "Moonlight," Captain Blanchard, was about two miles from her moorings, the topmast and part of the masthead were carried away, and a falling block striking William Phillips, 3d, on the head, caused his death. February 25, 1863, the Swampscott fishing fleet landed one hundred and fifty thousand pounds of fish on Blaney's Beach. February 25, 1S63, the " Flying Dart,'' with a crew of twelve men, brought in a fare of fourteen thousand pounds, and sold them for two cents per pound. In 1864, the " Minnehaha " caught oft' Boon Island, three hundred and fifty barrels, and " Flying Dart" one hundred and thirty barrels, of mackerel, in about four hours. Many a fisherman has experienced in a singular manner the vicissitudes of fisherman's luck, catching some days merely nothing, while on others they re turn heavily laden. Truly, 'tis said the banks are in sound condition and free from the dangers of sus pension and failure. September 26, 1865, Augustus Story caught a halibut which weighed one hundred and ninety-four pounds ; he received $54.32 for his prize. February 28, 1867, the schooner "Cosmos," Cap- OF SWAMPSCOTT. 61 tain Holbrook, caught thirteen thousand pounds of cod fish which sold at the rate of $1.90 per hundred, the largest cod weighing just one hundred pounds. In 1870, John Stanley caught, near Egg Rock, a halibut weighing one hundred and fifteen pounds, for which he received $15.00. F'ebruary 16, 1872, the schooner "Champion," with a crew of twelve men, caught thirty thousand pounds of fish, which sold at four cents per pound ; the next day's catch yielded $72.00 per man. In the fall of 187S, the Swampscott fleet of seven teen vessels and one hundred and fifteen men brought in one hundred and fifty-seven thousand pounds of cod fish, most of which went to the splitters, and the remainder tp the Boston market at seventy-five cents per hundred weight. While J. G. Twisden was fishing in the ba}' in 1878, he lost his two pound lead and line, and, a few days afterward, fishing near the same place, he cap tured the fish which deprived him of his tackle a few days before. In 1879, the schooner, "Alice M. Hawkes" brought in forty-nine thousand pounds of cod fish in one day. In 1880, Captain Henry Y. Hatch, while fishing in the bay oft' Swampscott, caught a halibut weighing three hundred and sixty pounds. During the .Spring of 1880, many icebergs were seen in the distance by Swampscott fishermen. One man who has followed the sea for fifty years, said it was the coldest spring he ever knew. 62 HISTORICAL SKETCHES In i8So, J. Porter Thomas, made seventeen trips after tautog in two months, averaging one hundred pounds per trip, many of the fish weighing from ten to twelve and a half pounds each. In iS8o, the scarcity of bait induced the fishermen to use the gill net in cod fishing. In April, 1632, weirs were placed in .Charles River, three miles above Watertown, and a large number of shad were taken. In 187S, James Kehoe was found in his dory, ashore on Tinker's Island ; his body was found lying partly in the boat and partly on a rock. He expired soon after he was discovered. He was about fifty- two years old. In 1879, Captain L. A. Story, of the schooner " E Pluribus Unura," while on a cruise in the bay noticed a small fish swimming near the stern. A liook was temptingly baited, but although the fish would smell of the bait, he would not take the tempting morsel. It proved to be a pilot fish, which are very scarce in these waters. The Fall school of large cod fish was unusually great in November, 1S79, and was sold for ninety and ninety-two cents per hundred weight for splitting; thirty years ago they were sold at the rate of seventy- five cents per hundred. The schooner "Cosmos" took a fare of sixty-five thousand mackerel into Boston, during the mackerel season, stocking over $100 per man. A 3'ellow cod fish was caught in 1S81, weighing thirty-five pounds. Nothing has been seen like it OF SWAMPSCOTT. 63 since the year 1829, when a vessel laden with cofl'ee was wrecked on Shag Rocks. In September, 1882, Isaac Newcomb, one of the crew of the " Zeppie," Captain Casey, caught an electric fish, and when taking it from the hook, re ceived a severe shock which knocked him down. Warren Jaquith grasped the tail of the fish and also received a heavy shock. The fish weighed three hundred pounds. This fish is known as the cramp fish, torpedo or electric ray, the touch at which causes a numbness, tremor, and often sickness at the stomach. The "Zeppie" was built at James A. Knowlton's boat yard, Blaney's Beaph, about thirty years, ago by Captain L. D. Story. CHAPTER VIII. ALONG THE SHORE. The Water from the Cliffs. — Egg Rock LigJit. — jSlinot's Ledge Light. — TJie Beaches. — Big Whale. — Wrecks of tJie " Tedesco ^' " Fred Bliss" and'-^ Vernon." — Escape of tJie '''• Zotof." — Loss of '¦'¦ Ediuard HeatJi." — Notes. The chief delights of the visitor in Swampscott is found along the shore, walking or bathing on the beaches, or standing upon the clifl's, and looking out over the ever-changing waters. How the light flashes over the waves, chased by dark shadows ! W^hat hues are sometimes seen ! The sea represents all the difTerent colors of the rainbow. In shallow water the color is usually a dirty green, and as you proceed farther toward the middle of the sea it grows to a beautiful dark indigo, rich, and as one writer expresses it, a " color not only a form of beauty, conveying pleasure to the mind, but also having a use, like everything in nature," its color being such that one may look out on it without hurt ing the eyes. Preceding a storm it is a dark purple EGG ROCK. SWAMPSCOTT. 65 or gray. At sunrise or sunset the sea may be of two colors, one side a verdant green, the other a deep blue. A white, sandy bottom gives the water a most brilliant emerald green. The sea about Magnolia is said to be like molten turquoise, lovely beyond des cription. EGG ROCK LIGHT. " Egg Rock, lilce a sentinel, vigil is keeping, The fisherman gaily is casting his line. And many a sail, onward bound you descry, In sunlight and shade moving gallantly by." Egg Rock is nearly three miles south of Swarap scott. It had been thought by the fishermen, for a number of years, that a light on Egg Rock would be of much service to them when entering and leaving the harbor by night, and to the mariner on his way to or from Boston harbor. At their request the writer drew up a petition to Congress to make an appropria tion for the same. I was informed that the twenty schooners would be assessed to pay all expenses, and gave my time for the good of all concerned. John D. Bates, of Boston, then having a summer residence at Swampscott, very kindly went with me to Robert G. Shaw, who was much pleased to head the peti tion ; we visited about thirty Boston merch;mts and presidents of insurance companies, all of whom gladly signed it. Then I received the names of the fisher men. I often visited the Lighthouse Board at Boston, for information, and found it necessary to have a map II 66 HISTORICAL SKETCHES of the site and Boston harbor to accompany the peti tion to Congress. Alonzo Lewis drew the required map, noting the location of the Boston lights and Egg Rock, charging me five dollars for the same, which I paid. The petition and map was forwarded by express to Congress in the care of Hon. Daniel P. King. Our representative was much pleased with the raoveraent, and at once secured the neces sary appropriation. Egg Rock was ceded to the United States ; the lighthouse was built in 1856, and the first light was shown on the night of September 15, 1856. A white light was used until June of the following year, when it was changed to a red one, which has since been of great service to the fisher men of Swampscott, as well as our merchant ma rine. The masonry of the house was by Plumer Chesley, and the carpenter work by Ira P. Brown, both of Lynn. The name " Egg Rock" was given in consequence of the vast number of gulls' eggs found there ; these birds congregating on its three acres in such numbers that immense quantities of guano are still to be found in all the depressed portions. It rises eighty-six feet above high water, so precipitously on all sides but at the west, that no landing is possible, save at one nar row point. Compact fellspar constitutes nearly the entire petrified mass, and of this very handy material, with the exception ofthe door-sills aud window-caps, the keeper's house is constructed. The house pre sents a, very neat appearance, having four rooms on OF SWAMPSCOTT. 67 the first floor, the second being devoted to the fixtures and supplies for the light. The apparatus is the cen- tricular or Fresnel light, with one burner, two lamps being regularly used, one of them as a relay at mid night. The peculiarity of this arrangement of light ing mechanism is, by means of a single wick, only an inch across, and with a flame of just the sarae height, to illuminate an area of twenty miles radius in every direction. The view from the dome of the light, which is one hundred and seven feet above the sea, is very fine on a clear day, and the scene one of grandeur in a heavy northeast storm. The ponderous waves often jar the entire mass of rock, to such a degree, that the stove covers in the structure will rattle when the storm is at its height. Great improvements have been made in lighthouses since the first one was erected hereabouts on " Little Brewster," Boston harbor, in 1715-16, by order and at the expense of the General Court of the Province of Massachusetts. The cost was £2,385 17s. 8^d., and was supported by taxing all vessels, excepting coasters, that passed in and out of the harbor, at the rate of id. per ton. In 1789, the United States assumed control of all lighthouses and paid the expenses without taxing the vessels. April 15, 1851, a violent easterly storm commenced and continued to rage for two days. The wind blew a gale and the rain fell in torrents. A very high tide was occasioned, the waves sweeping over King's Beach, carrying a small building nearly across the 68 HISTORICAL SKETCHES road, and flooding the land back to what is now New Ocean Street. The most serious disaster was the de struction of Minot's Ledge Light, which was swept away, together with two assistant keepers. The lighthouse was seventy-five feet high, and -was thought to be of sufficient strength to withstand the fury of wind and wave. October i6, iS^i, the British schooner " Brothers'' was wrecked b}' striking on the Outer Ledge, oft' Swampscott ; the crew, seven in number, were landed in safety. King's Beach, previous to i77'' '^'*^ much larger than at this time. Travelers left the cart path at the easterly end of the beach, and went down the gentle slope to the beach, which was covered for a number of rods from where the street now is with beach plum and other bushes. The people crossed the brook on two large logs, with the knots left on to pre vent them from slipping. Ebenezer Burrill and others petitioned His Majesty's Court of General Sessions of the Peace, held at Newburyport, Essex Count}', that a road might be laid out from King's Beach, near a brook (Stacy's) to a cart path, and through Fuller's, Lewis' and Bassett's land, two rods wide ; it was laid out in I'J'Ji. A road was laid out from Marblehead to Lynn in the year 1807, now Huraphrey and Orient Streets, crossing the brook to the old road laid out in 1 771 from King's Beach, which was made one-half a rod wider at that time. The road laid out in 1771 was OF SWAMPSCOTT. 69 widened at three separate times — in 1807, 1822 and 1841 . Thousands of salt-water eels ascend the waters of Stacy's Brook for winter quarters, and return to the waters ofthe bay during the early Spring. Ben jamin Andrews erected the first boat-house there, on land of Mr. .Wardwell, between Red Cottage and Stacy's Brook, about the year 1840. Many now living can remember the lively state of the Swampscott market, when teams from all the upper country would come here for their supply of fish. It was nothing unusual to see from fifty to one hund red vehicles at the beach at a time, some of them from Canada, and drawn by four horses, which came to town from Boston, after their proprietors had purchased raerchandise and loaded in that city. Such teams would be put up here and in the early morning would be started on the home trip. Blaney's Beach, one hundred and six rods in length, is oneof the best in town. The fisherman lands his fish in dories, and they are carted up from the boats to the fish-houses in the winter, but often times in the summer the fish venders buy their fish directly from dories as they come-in from the deep. Each boat- house has the name ofits schooner. on it. A stranger would be much amused and interested in the former appearance of the fishermen. The outside garments were of leather, the jacket being of sheep or goat skin, and the trousers of calf skin, with the dimensions of meal bags. The boots, called churn boots, weighing from ten to thirteen pounds, were of thick yellow 70 HISTORICAL SKETCHES cowhide ; the hat, or sou'-wester, was made of canvas, covered with a generous coating of tar, to make the hat water-proof ; it had a very narrow rim in front, but one quite the opposite in the back — say six or eight inches — and additional to all this, ear lappets of red baize, tied under the chin, covering almost the whole face. The fishermen looked about alike in their winter garb, and one could hardly be told from the other. THE fisherman's SONG. ( Written by a school teacher in Sivampscott, about 182S.J The fisherman shall be my theme, Whose life, though filled with toil and care, Is far more happy than a king's, Nor feels like him such slavish fear. They rise before the dawn of day, Early to reach the fishing ground; Through the wide sea they speed their way, Where fish do plenteously abound. Their littie barks are often tossed, Upon the high and foaming wave. Sometimes, indeed, are almost lost. As through the briny deep they lave. These fishing- boats do surely seem Almost as ifthey 'd g^o alone; Propelled by " Perkins's boots,'* Perhaps their valor might be shown. With well-filled bucket on their arm, Prepared by wife or mother dear, They sally forth and fear no harm, While health and streng-th their spirits cheer. Then from their weU-known sandy beach Emcrg-e their barks, on ocean wide; What transport fills the heart of each, As through the trackless sea they glide. Then if the sea be calm and smooth, How pleasure beams from every eye; With songs the passing- hours they soothe, As through the deep their lines they ply. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 7.1 Then late at night they sometimes stay, Nor stop to take the wished repose ; Just look at home and off they stray, While friendship in their bosoin glows. But there are those who on the land For them some anxious moments fear; "T IS the endearing-, faithful band Of mothers fond, or sisters dear. The youthful maid oft looks abroad, And casts her eye upon the deep; The heartfelt wish is raised to God, That He will safe her lover keep. If storms should rise and winds should blow. How anxious then all hearts must feel; The rising sigh they oft bestow, And tears upon their cheeks do steat. But, hark ! their well-known voice is heard. And thej approach, from danger free; A frugal feast is soon prepared, All hearts beat high in ecstasy. The names ofthe Swampscott fishing schooners for the last fifty years are as follows : — Hope, Fox, Dove, Leader, Laurel, Lillie, Reindeer, Lucy Ann, Little Essex, Big Essex, Finback, Little Mary, Three Friends, Ocean Traveller, Can 't Come It. I Am Here, Stfi'ped Pig, Vixen, Harrison, Magnet, Harp, Haze, Hake, Convoy, St. Clair, Banner, Bonny Boat, Fancy, Spartan, Ariel, Ram bler, Martha Jane, Ocean Bride, Wave Crest, Woodside, Lydia, Lucy, Susan, Romp, Yankee Maid, Factory Girl, Jen nie, Angie Nora, James and Isaac, Coquette, Osceola, Lone Star, Moonlight, Eliza May, Fawn, Oval, Defiance, Cyrene, Neptune, Bird, Challenge, Sea Flovi^er, Swampscott, Leo, Vanguard, Sea Serpent, Lark, Gazelle, Friend, Vapor, Me teor, China, Iris, Glide, Village Bell, Lion, Jenny Lind, Lily Dale, E. B. Phillips, Charles A. Stetson, Jane, Flight, Eu gene, Little Bonnie Boat, Flying Dart, Champion, Dart, Little Dart', Minnehaha, Alfaretta, Fairy Queen, E Pluribus Unum, Moll Pitcher, Emily C. Holder, Veni-Vidi-Vici, Na- 72 HISTORICAL SKETCHES poleon, Daniel C. Baker, Florence Nightingale, Gypsy Girl, Rover, Etta, Stars and Stripes, Carrie F. Roberts, Jehu, M. C. Hooper, Laughing Waters, Cosmos, Mary E. Story, Al berta Story, Carrie Forrester, Lucy Devlin, Lillian Estelle, Golden Rule, A. C. Newhall, Clytie, Schooner D, James Bradley, George A. Upton, Alice S. Hawkes, Zeppie, Lizzie Ruby, Jeannie P. Phillips, Paul and Essie: sloop Pollie; Acacia, Carrie E., Ettie, Flounce, J. W. Bradley, Nettie Adams, Norma, Nellie L. Pearce, Mary E. Hamilton, Jeannie B. Thomas, Zippa. THE BIG WHALE. In the year 1828, the schooner " Hope," of Swamp scott, having on board a Cape Cod crew, William Cole and a boy, towed into Swampscott a large whale, and landed him at the easterly end of Whale's Beach, whence it derives its name. Mr. Cole informed me that the whale measured seventy-four feet in length, but the blubber was so " candied" that only thirty- three barrels of oil were secured. The kettles were set under the willow trees near the " Little Anawan" premises. The jaws were opened wide, so that a person could walk in and stand erect, but they had to OF SWAMPSCOTT. 73 return over the same road. Tents were erected near the spot, and crowds came from far and near to view the whale. The bones were carried away, one after another, as relics, by the visitors. January i8, 1857, occurred one of the severest storms ever known on this coast. The mercury was twelve below zero, and so much snow fell that travel was suspended for two days. In the midst of this terrible storm, the barque " Tedesco," Captain Peter son, of Portland, Maine, loaded with salt and wine, from Cadiz, Spain, struck on Long Rock, near Gal- loupe's Point. There were twelve men on board, all of whom perished. Six bodies were recovered, and buried at one time. The tierces of wine were scattered to the four winds, some of them washing ashore, and being appropriated; the "tasting committee" soon felt quite merry. In 1869, on a dark night, and during a heavy storm, the ." Fred Bliss " was swept by the force ofthe wind and wave into a natural grove in the rocky cliff at Galloupe's Point, clearing the ledge by a few feet, which had it struck, all would doubtless have been lost, but as it was, they were enabled by a long plank to walk to the main land ; thus all on board were saved, and without a scratch. It was said that the wife of the captain was the coolest person on board at the time of the disaster. Captain Miles Blanchard has the piece of the vessel which bore the name "Fred Bliss." In the year 1859, the barque "Vernon," of two J2 . 74 HISTORICAL SKETCHES hundred and sixty-five tons burden, struck on Long Beach, Nahant ; she was bound for Boston from Messina, with a cargo of oranges. The Swamp scott life-boat, manned by the hardy fishermen, was launched, and all on board the vessel were saved. Some of the cargo was strewn along the beach, and many a person for once had all the oranges he wanted. Most of the cargo was saved ; the vessel was taken to Boston, for repairs. In the year 1859, February 3, the " Zotoft",'' from England, of and for Salem, came to anchor in a heavy storm within a cable's length of where the crew of the "Tedesco" met their sad fate. The crew was taken off by the fishing schooner "Minnehaha," of Swampscott, and the vessel was rescued from its perilous position by a steamer from Boston, and taken to Salem. During a great storm, March 25, 1876, the schooner "Flight" broke from her moorings, and drifting on.the rocks near the Lincoln House, became a total wreck. The " Alberta Story" went ashore on King's Beach, and was damaged about $1000. The "Minnehaha" also broke from her moorings, and struck the shore only a few hundred feet from the " Alberta Story," near Stacy's Brook, and was damaged about $2000. The "Clara Forrester" went on the rocks at the east ern end of Black Will's Cliff, and was a total loss. The " Champion" lost a fore boom, and the " Lizzie Roby," two dories, during the storm. On February 22, 1853, John Russell, Edward OF SWAMPSCOTT. Heath, and Jacob M. Lewis, went out fishing from Swampscott, in the schooner " Romp." While fish ing, the wind changed and blew furiously from the south-east. They weighed anchor and started for home, and after securing their moorings hoisted out a dory, putting into it about six hundred weight of fish. They then got into, it and tried to reach Blaney's Beach, their usual landing place. While rounding Lincoln House Point, a heavy sea broke over them and swamped the boat, but it immediately rose to the surface, bottom up. The three men clung to it as best they could. Several times Mr. Heath was washed off, but the last time he threw up his arms and sank to rise no more. Help came from the beach, and the other two men were saved, though Mr. Russell was in an exhausted condition. The next morning Mr. Heath's remains were found at the eastern end of King's Beach. During a heavy storm, March 28, 1849, Captain Zebedee Small and four others manned the life-boat and rescued the crew of the "James Harvey," wrecked near Nahant, and landed them on shore in safety. This brave deed was noticed by the Massa chusetts Humane Society, which caused a silver medal to be presented to each of the crew of the life boat. Captain Small was born in South Orleans, Pleasant Bay, in the year 1815. In the summer of 1869, a writer to one of the Bos ton papers wrote as follows: "Swampscott bay is before me. Immediately in front is the rock from 76 HISTORICAL SKETCHES which Lady Deborah Moody took her departure on account of her religious dissensions in 1643. To the right beyond ' Sculpin's Roost' is a row of fishermen's huts ; a short distance beyond .that may be seen the British ffag waving over the residence of the English Consul, but, even in its lofty height overshadowed by our own stars and stripes, as they float in the breeze from a flagstaff some twenty feet higher, on the estate of Waldo Thompson ; farther on, backed by the beautiful Ocean Street driveway, are beautiful res idences owned by Boston's favored sons." In the winter of 1S38 occurred one of the most violent gales from the southeast ever known at Swamp scott, and five of the eleven boats lying at their moor ings were driven on shore with more or less damage to each. The gale commenced late in the afternoon and continued through the night. The boats that rode out the gale sustained some damage, and their small boats were smashed. In March, 1S29, a schooner loaded with coffee struck on Shag Rocks. It is said that the haddock devoured so much of the raw coflee that it caused their flesh to turn a greenish yellow. GENERAL NOTES. In the summer of 1839, while the writer was fish ing from a dory, oft' Phillips Point, he saw, a few feet from the boat, a large shark as long as the dory. The memory of the fate of Mr. Blaney flashing over OF SWAMPSCOTT. his mind, made him give a sigh of relief when the huge fish, after surveying the situation, suddenly dis appeared from view. At the annual town meeting, held in Lynn, in 1842, it was voted to stop all persons from taking sea manure from the beaches on Sundays. In April, 1828, Paul Newhall was upset in his boat, while entering the harbor, near the inner ledge, and drowned. In Februarv, 1S29, a great storm occurred, and several vessels belonging in Swampscott were driven to sea before the gale ; one of them went ashore at Chatham, where the crew suffered from the extreme cold. The first lifeboat was delivered at Swampscott, in •the year 1846, by Captain R. B. Forbes. The schooner "Hornet" went ashore in a heavy storm on Long Beach, in the year 1849. In September, 1849, J. C. Lamphier, of Swamp scott, discovered a turtle floating near the shore. It was towed in and a bullet hole was found in the body. Its length from the end of the head to tip of tail was eight feet six inches ; the shell was six feet and six inches long, and three feet and six inches wide ; the turtle weighed six hundred pounds. Small pearls were found in large numbers in mus sels, on " Dread Ledge," in the year 1850. Henry Thomas shot a white-faced seal off Swamp scott, August 3, 1854 ; it measured four feet in length. In June, 1852, Mr. Small, of Swampscott, and Mr. HISTORICAL SKETCHES Danforth, of East Boston, were capsized in their boat in a severe squall near Pig Rocks, and were drowned. Another man in the boat saved himself by swimming with the help of an oar, and was picked up by another boat nearly an hour afterwards. A Mr. Fenno went out fishing on the 19th of July, 1859, and soon after his boat was found drifting with his hat in it ; his body was found floating near Whale's Beach. In a dark, stormy night in February, 1S60, two schooners were vainly tiying to reach their moorings in Swampscott Bay. To aid them a fire was built with two barrels of tar, and with this for a guide they safely reached anchorage. In 1861, the schooner " I Tell Ye " broke from her moorings and went ashore on Whale's Beach ; she, was valued at $1100, and was sold at auction for $300. The schooner "Electric Spark" also went ashore on Blaney's Beach, and was got oft" with little damage. As the life boat was returning from the " Electric Spark" it was upset, and its occupants were thrown into the sea, but they all escaped. January 17, 1S63, the tide was the lowest known for many years ; one could comfortably walk around Black Will's Clift'. February 13, 1863, the sea appeared to be boiling hot, the vapor rising in clouds, presenting an interest ing sight. In March, 1864, the beacon on Dread Ledge, an obelisk of granite twenty-four feet high, and three OF SWAMPSCOTT. 79 feet square at the base, was broken off near the cen tre, in a gale which lasted four days, and the sea was very high. While a number of parties were out in the bay August II, 1865, a sudden fog shut the shore from their view, and they did not return till the next day. One party landed at Egg Rock and were well cared for by the keeper. In tlie summer of 1S70, a great regatta took place oft' Swampscott, participated in by New York, East ern, and other club yachts. Thousands of people come to stroll along the shores and beaches of Swampscott, and many re marks are doubtless made by admirers of the scenes stretched before their vision, but what can be more truthful than that of a little girl of five years, watch ing the v/aves as they beat the shore — " See the waves play catch." The beaches of Swampscott were thickly strewn with sun or jelly fish, one summer morning in 1871. A gentleman spending a few weeks at Swampscott caught three bass, weighing about sixty pounds, while fishing for nippers oft" Galloupe's Rocks. In 1S72, while a Mr. Cleveland was fishing from G. W. Harris' pleasure yacht, near Dread Ledge, he caught a tautog weighing eleven pounds and ten ounces. A. F. Nesbitt caught a switchtail shark, whose total 'length was thirteen feet, August 24, 1874. 80 HISTORICAL SKETCHES. " Sharks generally turn on their sides to eat, Though Ihey never go back on their meals." The schooner "Alberta Story " was wrecked De cember 2, 1878, at the foot of Wave Street, Lynn, and was a total loss. During the evenings of September, 1877, the phos phorescent light was to be seen along the beaches, as the waves broke and dashed on the shore. Many per sons visited the shore to witness the beautiful sight. August 7, 1882, Charles Merritt and Michael Ryan, while bathing near Black Will's Clift', rescued a boy named Stephen Morris from drowning, he being at tacked with cramp. They were eacb presented with a silver medal by the Massachusetts Humane Society. Two large whales were seen oft" Swampscott, No vember 30, 1873. CHAPTER IX. POLITICAL AND OTHER NOTES. Great Democratic Clam Bake. — Encampment of the Second Brigade. — Big Boot. The sixth of September, 1S44, is a day of much in terest in the annals of Swampscott. An assembly of at least twenty-five thousand people came together in the interests of the presidential campaign. The Dem ocrats present exceeded by thousands the most san guine hopes of the promoters of the enterprise. Large numbers of ladies were present, besides a gen erous sprinkling of boys and girls. About three thousand people came from the City of Boston. The Lynn station of the Eastern Railroad was the place of rendezvous. It was found, on organization, that more than twenty towns were represented. The buildings, public and private, were profusely decora ted with flags and banners. The procession was formed under the direction of Caleb M. Long, Esq., of Lynn, who acted as chief marshal on the occasion ; it was about a mile in length, and banners bearing the inscriptions, "Polk and Dallas," "Equal Laws and Equal Rights," etc., were proudly borne at its head. 13 82 HISTORICAL SKETCHES The head of the procession reached the objective point. Clambake Hill, Swampscott, at 12.30 o'clock. This hill was admirably adapted for the purpose in every respect. It commanded delightful views of the sea and surrounding country, and on the broad bosom of Massachusetts Bay could be seen vessels of aW de scriptions. The escort of the procession was corhposed of some of the finest military organizations of the day : the " Hingham Riflemen," Captain A. B. Ingalls, lead ing, and followed by the " Salem Artillery," Captain Rhodes, "Marblehead Infantry'' and the "Lynn Artillery,'' Captain Gale, accompanied by bands. Next came the hardy and indomitable Swampscott fishermen, wearing red shirts and tarpaulin hats, and carrying two banners ; this feature of the procession was the most unique and interesting of the whole line. The Lynn banner was of large size, and those from other places were of much interest. After the arrival of the procession, it was found that fires had been lighted in seven large ovens, each thirty feet in cir cumference, for roasting clams, of which there were one hundred and seventy barrels provided, together with one thousand lobsters, and many other things necessary to supply the wants of the multitude. The stage erected for the orators was a beautiful afl'air, a sort of rural temple, dedicated to the genius of De mocracy. It was covered with evergreens, and be decked with garlands, wreaths and flowers, which aft'orded an agreeable shade for the^speakers, OF SWAMPSCOTT. 83 At one o'clock the assembly was called to order, and J. C. Stickney, Esq., of Lynn, was unanimously chosen president of the day. On taking the chair, he gave an eloquent address, and then introduced Hon. Robert Rantoul as the orator of the day, who deliv ered a characteristic speech to an attentive and ap preciative audience ; he was followed by other speak ers. One of the toasts given on the Occasion was as follows: "The Democrats of Swampscott — Men of sterling worth, and true friends to the people, ever ready, when duty requires, to march shoulder to shoulder to the polls and vote for honest men and lib eral measures ; but the dread of all those who vote for corporations, log cabins, hard cider, and last but not least, the ' Mill Boy ofthe Slashes.'" The clam bake was a great success, and the memory of September 6, 1844, will long live among the sur vivors who attended it as one of the glorious as semblages of the old Bay State. In August, 1871, the Second Brigade, M. V. M., encamped in the fields adjoining what is now Atlantic Avenue, Swampscott, and greatly enjoyed the cool sea breezes. During the encampment an amusing presentation took place at headquarters. One morn ing a large box arrived in camp addressed to Adjutant General James A. Cunningham, in camp at Swamp scott, and was accordingly placed in his tent. The presence of this box and its unknown contents caused much wonder in camp, and many were the surmises concerning it. In the evening of that day. General 84 HISTORICAL SKETCHES Cunningham presented to Major Sutton, Assistant Inspector General on General Pierson's staff', an elaborately decorated wheelbarrow, bearing on each of the sideboards the monogram of Major Sutton. The speeches of the donor and recipient were most laughable, and were hugely enjoyed by the party pre sent, which was not a small one. It appears that General Cunningham, Major Sutton and Colonel Hobart Moore, were a commission to test breech- loading muskets, and to try them they went to Major Sutton's residence at North Andover. Here a wheel barrow was used to convey the ammunition and target to the place of firing, and then the wheel barrow was used to support the target, and whether the target was not large enough, or the wheelbarrow was too large, it turned out, on examination, that the bullets had damaged the wheelbarrow so much as to render it unserviceable, and as General Cunningham had done the most execution in that direction, he thought he must make the loss good, hence the pres ent. Wheelbarrows aft'ord a means of cheap transporta tion. Silas Pierce used one to deliver goods when he first went into the grocery business in Boston. A lady once purchased a lemon at a store on Broad Street, Lynn, and requested that it should be "sent home." The enterprising storeman at once follgwed her out, locked the door, and taking his wheelbarrow, delivered the lemon at her house, as soon as she reached home. OF SWAMPSCOTT. One morning in August, 1879, Frank Blaney, a grandson of Mr. Blaney, who was killed by a shark, July 12, 1830, was fishing with his mate in a dory oft" Swampscott, when they captured something resem bling a fish, the name of which none knew, and the oldest fisherman could not remember ever before see ing anything like it. It was decidedly unlike any other specimen ever caught in the bay. It weighed three hundred and sixty pounds, was rather ftat, the greatest thickness of the body being about eight inches ; it was a dark brown color, its length was three feet one inch, and width four feet, and near the nose three feet two inches across ; the tail resembled that of a shark ; the eyes were very small and about four inches apart ; the mouth was eight or ten inches in width ; the belly was a greyish-white, the fins rather small. Altogether, it formed one of the most curious specimens of the piscatorial tribe ever seen in the waters of the bay. Perhaps it was — *' A creature not too bright or good For human nature's daily food." In 1878, D. Holman Millett, of Swampscott, man ufactured, at the wood-turning establishment of J. Otis Marshall, Broad Street, Lynn, a boot of mam moth proportions, furnished upon an order of John Mahon & Sons, for parties in South Carolina. It was used as a sign, and was placed upon wheels for a po sition on the sidewalk. This boot measured four feet two inches from the sole to top of leg, and seven- 86 HISTORICAL SKETCHES teen inches across the leg ; length of sole, three feet eight inches, and width fourteen inches. One hund red and thirty-three feet of three-inch plank were used in manufacturing the large-sized boot. GENERAL NOTES. In 1826, the population of the village of Swamp scott, then known as Ward One, L3'nn, was: males, 123; Females, 120; total, 243. The first "Swampscott Lyceum " was formed in the year 1832, by a number of gentlemen who associ ated themselves together, and secured a course of lec tures on popular subjects. These lectures were given once a week in the school house, and were well at tended. In the year 1832, Thomas Bartlett, Jr., kept a grocery store at Blaney's Beach, opposite the tavern kept by Ebenezer Weeks. Mr. Durant made a balloon ascension from Boston Common, August 10, 1834, at 6, p. m., and one hour later, he was picked up "oy a vessel, fourteen miles east of Swampscott. George Thompson, a prominent English abolition ist, lectured in Lynn to a large crowd late in the Summer of 1835, on the subject of " Slavery." After the lecture, to avoid them, he passed out through a window, on a slide to the ground, and went to his temporary boarding place in Swampscott. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 87 In the year 1S40, Burrill Street was laid out from Essex Street to Humphrey Street. Previous to that time there was a cart path extending through that locality, and travellers with a team found it necessary to open and shut six gates and bars while going from one street to the other. " Red Cottage," on Humphrey Street, since re placed by the stable ofthe Lynn and Boston Railroad Co., was devoted to the raising of ducks and chickens, about the year 1840, under the care of Joseph Hill and brothers, there being at one time as many as three thousand ducks and two hundred chickens kept there. Additions were afterward made, and the whole fin ished into tenements, and it still kept the name of the "Duck House." Captain William Galeucia's house was moved to its present location soon after Burrill Street was laid out in 1840, from, the opposite side, near Mudge's gate. The year 1840 was made famous by the " Hard Cider Campaign." It was one of thc most exciting campaigns of the country. A mammoth tent was erected near the old " Ingalls" house by the Demo crats of Swampscott, and an enthusiastic assembly was addressed by Hon. Robert Rantoul and others. Hon. Cyrus Washburn, Ebenezer Weeks and Thomas Stone were the prime movers ofthe occasion. When the town school committee, in 1844, visited the school on Humphrey Street, one afternoon, all went well until the class in arithmetic was called, 88 HISTORICAL SKETCHES when the question, " How much is three and two.^" was asked of a bright boy at the head of the class. The astonishment of all may be imagined when the confused boy replied that he " had not ciphered so far as that." This illustrates how little it takes to confuse the young mind during the dreaded examina tions. In 1844, a travelling photographer's wagon re mained for several weeks in the vicinity of " Black Will's Clift'," and met with quite a lucrative trade. One maiden lady came and had her picture taken, but she was not satisfied, as she thought it looked too old, etc. She sat seven times without success, as she thought ; the eighth time the artist brought out a picture of a much younger and prettier lady, which sire, tiiinking it was her own likeness, and correct at last, took away with her, much to the artist's amuse ment. In 1849, '^ large number of men left Swampscott and vicinity to seek their fortunes in California. Among the number were Jonathan Blaney and Ephraim A. Ingalls. They started in February, and after a five-months' tramp across the plains via Mexico, arrived in the land of gold. Captain Miles Blanchard and Hugh Douglass took passage in the " Argonaut," six hundred and forty tons, from Boston to San Francisco, which place they reached in safety. They remained but a short time, and then returned. The late Captain Thomas Hadley spent many ye^rs pf his life in California. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 89 The organization of the first city government of Lynn, of which Swampscott was then a village, took place May 14, 1850, and Swampscott was under a city form of government from that time until May 21, 1852, when it was incorporated as a town. David C. Proctor, of Swampscott, killed forty grey squirrels and tliree foxes, in three days' hunting in Lynn woods, in the year 1856. In August, 1854, John Blaney's house was struck by lightning, though but little damage was clone. July 7, 1S56, an eight-year old son of W. A. Ward- well, of Swampscott, was drowned near the easterly end of King's Beach ; the body was recovered by J. A. Knowlton. One day in i8';6. Captain Nathaniel Blanchard lost his small tin dipper overboard ; a few days after, when fishing near the same place, he caught a large cod fish, and recovered his dipper, which the fish had swallowed, doubtless taken for a dainty morsel. In 1853, Amos Gould, Wenham, made a pair of fishermen's churn boots which when finished weighed thirteen pounds. They were for sale by the writer in his store. A pair were exhibited at the Mechanics' Fair, held in Boston, over Qiiincy Hall Market, and were awarded a medal. June 13, 1857, Captain Fuller's barn was burned ; the fire was caused by two little boys, who were play ing with matches in the hay. One of them, a son of James A. Knowlton, aged four years and a half, was burned to death. 14 90 HISTORICAL SKETCHES July 4, 1S57, Henry Scales and John Draper were fatally injured while engaged in firing salutes with an old cannon ; they died a few days after. Joseph L. Hill, aged twenty, was accidentally killed while gunning at Swampscott, by the prema ture discharge of a fowling piece, March 3, 1858. x\ugust 6, 1858, a barn belonging to Jonathan F. Phillips was struck by lightning and burned, together with fifty tons of hay. The well-known trotting mare, " Lady Lawrence," valued at $1000, was killed by the lightning. Mr. Phillips informed me that in those days there was no necessity for locking the doors of the barns and houses, and the salted fish could be left to dry on the flakes all night without fear of their being molested, — a thing which could not be done in these days of thieves and tramps. A beautiful comet made its appearance in the heavens during the autumn of 1858, and it was esti mated that the tail was fifty-one millions of miles in length. October 13, 1858, the first electric telegraph line was completed to Swampscott. An'office was opened in the store of Waldo Thompson, and Miss Small was installed as operator. On Monday, March 17, [884, another telegraph line was completed, connecting the houses of Warren Atkins and Waldo Thompson in Lynn, with Jeft'ers' drug store in Swampscott, there being seven instruments on the line. There was a total eclipse of the moon early on the morning of February 17, 1859. A large humpback OF SWAMPSCOTT. 9J whale was seen near the shore on the same morn ing- In December, 1859, Charles Rowell killed his hog which weighed, after being dressed, six hundred and two pounds. There was a great strike among the shoemakers of Lynn and Swampscott, in February, 1S60, and a large procession of strikers passed through town. In April, 1861, Dr. Jacob Porter enlarged his apothecary store in Widger's Block. New Ocean Street was laid out by the County Commissioners, from Ocean Street, Lynn, to Burrill Street, Swampscott, in the year 1865. In 1865, when the news of the assassination of Pres ident Lincoln was received in the town, one person was so indiscreet as tc? manifest his approval in such terms as to kindle the wrath of his townspeople, who seizing him, covered him liberally with a coat of tar and feathers and carried him through the town. He afterwards brought a civil suit before Judge Gray, of the Supreme Judicial Court, and was awarded $800 damages. July 4, 1867, a balloon ascension was made from Lynn Common ; after floating for a while in the air, the balloon suddenly descended into the waters of Swampscott Bay, when it was rescued by a boat near at hand. The "Watermelon Club" was organized July 5, 1867, and numbered about thirty persons; they have an excursion every year on the fifth of July, going in 92 HISTORICAL SKETCl-IES Captain Douglass' yacht, and generally making for the-fishing grounds for a few hours, then visiting some point of interest on the coast. A good dinner and the election of officers are two ofthe features ofthe trip. In 1S69, a blue heron was shot in what was known as the "forty-acre woods," Swampscott. This bird is very rarely seen in the woodland of Massachusetts. Its height, when standing erect, was about four feet, while it measured fi\e feet from tip to tip of its wings. In 1870, one warm summer afternoon, a gentleman being desirous to know how many people passed the store of Holden & Lee, on the corner of Redington and Humphrey Streets, counted them for two hours, beginning at 5.30, p. m., and obtained the following result: Number of persons, one thousand six hundred and eighty-six, of vvhich nine hundred and seventy passed during the last hour, or an average of sixteen per minute ; number of carriages, five hundred and twenty-six. This was not an unusual occurrence dur ing the warm, summer months. While a son of Richard Horton, of Swampscott, was crossing the meadow between new Ocean Street and Humphrey Street, May 25, 1878, he was struck and wounded in the head by a large shot, fired by some unknown party, but fortunately it proved a slight wound and he soon recovered. In 1884, Mark G. Phillips had a cow that took the lead of any we have yet heard of. In three liund red successive days the cow yielded four thousand six OF SWAMPSCOTT. 93 hundred and sixty-six quarts, an average of fifteen quarts, one pint, and a fraction per day. In January, 1879, N. A. Cahoon shot a bald- headed eagle, on Blaney's Beach. The bird weighed eighteen pounds, and measured six feet nine inches from tip to tip, and was sold for the sum of $8. The first death in 1876 was that of William D. Rowe, which occurred in January ; he was ninety- four years of age. The last death in the year was that of Ebenezer Thorndike, in December ; his age was nearly ninety-four years. Most of the deceased were adults of fifty years of age or upwards. In 1S77, there was a peculiar litter of kittens in Swampscott, one kitten having no tail, one a mere stub, and the other a tail long enough for the three. January 8, 1876, the first nuinber of the Swamp scott Enterprise was published. The Town Hall was illuminated with gas for the first time in 1878. A very successful " Highland " party was given in the Town Hall, by ladies of the Congregational Society, on Monday, evening, January 20, 1878. In May, 1880, a thunder storm of great severity visited this section, and the lightning struck in nine places in the town. A house on Burrill Street, occu pied by A. W. Larkin and family, was considerably damaged, but although there were people in the house at the time, none were injured. The Baptist Church was struck, but only slightly damaged. The lightning striking the house of Colonel Farwell, went 94 HISTORICAL SKETCHES. into the cellar, and made a hole in the cistern, caus ing the water to run to waste. A large hole was made in the bank of a brook which runs through Paradise Road, and the old farm-house on the Mudge' estate was also struck. ' During the year 1881 many people were inquiring, " Have you seen the land tortoise on Clambake Hill ?" The size of this tortoise, as told by a resident of the hill, was enormous, being three feet in height, five feet across, and ten feet from tlie tip of the nose to the tip of the tail. On Saturday afternoon. May 14, 1881, the horse cars commenced their trips to Mudge's Square, in Swampscott. In the summer of 1S81, Captain Thomas Stanley raised in his garden six stalks of sunflowers whicii were eleven feet and six inches high, the six stalks bearing two hundred blossoms. The Watermelon Club took their annual sail on July 5, 1881, the party numbering about twenty-five persons. On Monday, September 16, 1882, union memorial services were held in the Methodist Church, Swamp scott, in memory of the President, James A. Gar field ; the principal address was made by the Rev. J. B. Clark. Hon. E. R. Mudge presided. On the evening of September 6, 1882, a large house, known as "Hillside," the property of Jonatlian Blaney, was totally destroyed by fire. It was insured for $6000. Hardly had the fire been extinguished OF SWAMPSCOTT. 95 when a second alarm was given, caused by fire break ing out in the Ocean House, situated on Orient Street, near Whale's Beach. It was a fraine building, and well known among the visitors to the seashore ; the loss amounted to about $60,000. The Lynn Fire Department rendered efficient aid at both fires, and thousands of people came from far and near to wit ness the sight. In August, 1882, a three-story building, occupied by Levi Nickerson as a dwelling-house and oil-cloth ing factory was set on fire by a kettle of tar boiling over on the stove. A girl about sixteen years old, named Emma Stone, employed in the family, at tempted to extinguish the flames, and was severely burned, from the effects of which she died. A boy nained Harry McCabe entered the burning building and rescued a baby of Mr. Nickerson that was asleep on a bed. The building, being of wood, and so much oil being in it, was quickly consumed, although the Lynn Fire Department quickly responded to an appeal for help. In 1882, the Swampscott Tubular Well Company sunk twenty tubular wells to a depth of thirty feet; eighteen of these were connected to a main pipe, and the discharge during twelve hours averaged four hundred gallons per minute. The promoters of the enterprise proposed to supply the water to the town. There were three hundred and sixty-five houses in Swampscott in 1871. 96 HISTORICAL SKETCHES REPRESENTATIVE MEN. Hon. Ebenezer Burrill was a member of the Crown Governor's Council during the years 1731- 1740. Hon. Ebenezer Burrill was a representa tive from the district of Lynn and Swampscott, from 1728 to 1731. Hon. E. Redington Mudge was Senator one year ; Jonathan F. Phillips was Repre sentative one year ; Eben. N. Wardwell, two ; Saniuel C. Pitman, one ; Janes K. Snow, one ; John C. Stimpson, two ; Francis E. Andrews, one ; John Stone, one; Cyrus Washburn, 1865-66; Samuel Otis Ingalls, 1885. CHAPTER X. CHURCHES, REFORM AND BENEVOLENT SOCIETIES. First Congregational . — Methodist. — Disciples of Christ. — Baptist. — Unitarian. — Episcopal. — Universalist Sunday School. — Good Templars. — Reform Club. — Women's Cliristian Temper ance Union. — Sivampscott Watchers' Society. Previous to 1845, there was no established church in the village of Swampscott, then a part of Lynn. The people of dift'erent denominations enjoyed only occasional gatherings, for religious worship, in the school-house on Humphrey Street. Many of the in habitants attended church in Lynn, while more ab sented themselves frojn the house of worship, pre ferring rather to commune with the works of nature in the neighborhood of their homes. Of the latter class a writer once said, in speaking of a certain fisherman — " He visits his chair each Sabbath, and spends several hours in gazing upon the sea and land, from Black Will's Cliff. He called the place ^ his church, where he worships all creation. A little girl remarked to this worshipper — ' If that is your church, what do you do for singing i" 'Oh,' said he, I? 98 HISTORICAL SKETCHES ' I have the sparrows and crickets.' ' Well,' said she, ' I suppose the waves are your organ ?' " In the fall of 1844, Rev. Parsons Cooke, of Lynn, was invited by the writer to preach the first Congrega tional sermon in Swampscott, at the Humphrey Street School-house. The nieeting was announced from Dr. Cooke's church, and further notice of it was given by means of three notices, posted in the village. The school-house was lighted on this occasion by twelve' tallow candles, made at Mr. Hildreth's factory in Lynn, which were placed in tin candlesticks, with the old-fashioned reflectors on the back. Two high, glass lamps, which burned oil, were also kindly loaned for the desk, by Mrs. Lucy Blaney, who long since went to her rest, leaving her light to shine for the benefit of future generations. Dr. Cooke preached to a full house, from Proverbs viii : 4. — " Unto you, O men, I call ; and my voice is to the sons of man." The singing was by four of Dr. Cooke's choir, and the exercises of this meeting were much enjoyed by all present. Dr. Cooke was so much impressed with the success of the gathering that he remarked that " it would not be long before regular preaching would be enjoyed by the people of the village." In the summer season of the year 1845, Rev. J. B. Clark visited Swampscott, with his family, and as there was no public religious service, he preached a number of tiines. August 24, 1845, in response to a call, by notices posted during the previous week, for all who were in OF SWAMPSCOTT. 99 favor of forming a Union Sabbath School to meet in the school-house on Redington Street, on the Sabbath ; at 5-30 o'clock p. m., there assembled about seventy- five children and eighteen adults, and a Union Sab bath School was then and there organized by the fol lowing persons : Mr. and Mrs. E. R. Mudge, John B. Richardson, Waldo Thompson, W. D. Brackett, Mrs. M. G. Phillips, Mrs. Olive Ropes, Ira Sanborn, William Cole, Rufus Delano, A. D. Baker, Mrs. J. Honors, Miss Sarah Babb, Miss S. Wilkins, Miss M. S. Hill, Miss M. A. Hill, Miss Newhall and George Thomas. Mrs. William H. Collins and Mrs. Mary J. Weeks were much interested in the formation of the school, and did active work. On the next Sabbath there were one hundred and sixteen present — teachers and scholars. They used Banvard's Series of Question Books. A library was soon gathered, eighty-three volumes having been con tributed by two members, and one hundred and forty- three volumes were bought — total, two hundred and twenty-six volumes. A subscription paper in aid of the school was circulated, and sums varying from five to twenty-five cents were contributed, some pay ing the latter sum who would now contribute more dollars. The school was often addressed by W. B. Reynolds, Rev. Asa Bullard and others. Mr. Bul lard was the first clergyman to address the school. Of the original eighteen signers, Mr. and Mrs. Mudge, Mrs. Olive Ropes, Rufus Delano, Mrs. M. G. Phillips and William Cole have since died. For l60 HISTORICAL SKETOltES the first three months the school averaged eighty, and there was about six hundred inhabitants at that time in the village ; in the town there are now about two thousand five hundred. In December, 1845, Rev. J. B. Clark returned to Swampscott, giving up all other engagements, and establishing himself and family at the house of the late Eben Weeks. He commenced holding meetings in the school-house, in connection with the Sabbath School, December S, 1845. The school was taken in charge by him and called the First Church School, the organization of which has been kept up to the present time, although three Sabbath Schools have sprung from it. August 9, 1846, Rev. Dr. Black burn was present, and the first Sabbath School monthly concert was established, these also having been continued to the present time. Teachers' meet ings have also been held at ¦private houses since the organization of the school. It will be seen by the following extract from the doings of the Essex South Association, held in Saugus, September 23, 1845, that Parsons Cooke's prediction concerning a church soon proved true : Resolved, That as the providence of God seems to have opened the way for the establishment of a Congregational Church in the village of Swampscott, in Lynn, the members of this association will cordially co-operate in all proper measures for the accomplishment of so desirable and im portant an object. Attest: GEORGE T. DOLE, Secretary. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 101 At a subsequent meeting of the Conference of Churches, at Beverly, was submitted the following re port : Reverend and Beloved ; — The Essex South Conference of Churches, at its last meeting, after hearing statement re specting our enterprise for the building of a meeting-house in Swampscott, voted a decided approval of it, and appointed a committee to act byway of council and advice, in concur rence with Mr. Clark, who is laboring in that place. The committee consists of Rev. Messrs. Worcester and Sessions. They have thought that it was due that they, in recommend ing aid to this enterprise from the association, should address this letter to the churches, briefly stating the facts ofthe case. Swampscott is a rapidly-growing village, in the east part of Lynn, about three miles from the only Orthodox Congrega tional meeting-house in the town, and near two miles from any meeting-house in the village. There is a population of about seven hundred, and few out bf the whole have been habitual attendants at any place of worship. It has but a very few people who have been attached to our denomina tion, and those few are of limited means. The prospeet of having, a meeting-house and regular worship in the place has caused a generous contribution to the enterprise, in raising the sum of about five hundred dollars in the village. Mr. Clark will build the church, with the distinct understanding that the house is to be for the exclusive use of an Orthodox Congregational Church ; and the land for building the house has been purchased and the contract made, on such terms as secured it against the possibility of perversion. The contract was made under such conditions that the building might not proceed faster than funds were in hand to pay for it, so that the enterprise might be sure against being crushed with debt. It is to cost $3000. The place is becoming a resort for people in the city of Boston and elsewhere, who seek the sea 102 HISTORICAL StCETCHES air in the summer, and has a promise of much increase from that source ; and now is the time for us to give a character to the place. A Congregational Church established there at this time may be expected to exert a leading and beneficial influence. Indeed, providential arrangement now remark ably favors the undertaking; and so favorable an opportunity mnst not be lost. We hope all the churches in this Con ference will promptly and cheerfully, according to their ability, take part in this good work. Signed : By order of the Committee, PARSONS COOKE, Chairman. At a nieeting of the Committee of the Essex South Conference of Churches, at L3'nn, the following resolutions were passed : Resolved, That Rev. J. B. Clark be requested to take the supervision of the enterprise, and' make reports as to collec tions and doings to the committee. Resolved, That before the building is commenced, a deed or instrument be executed which shall secure the house to the perpetual use of the Orthodox Congregational Church. PARSONS COOKE, Chairman of Committee. Attest: Alkx. S. Sisson. Rev. J. B. Clark solicited subscriptions, December, 1S45, so that the chapel was contracted for, for the sum of three thousand dollars, and the land secured. July 15, 1846, the first church in Swampscott was organized, commencing with a membership of thir teen persons, members of seven Congregational ChuVches. By the advice and counsel of an ecclesi- OF SWAMPSCOTT. 103 astical body, convened for the purpose, July 15, 1S46, Rev. Jonas B. Clark was called as pastor, and he con tinued as such until May 27, 1866, when he resigned his pastoral charge to assume the rectorship of Oak land Hall School, at Dedham, Massachusetts. Messrs. Henry J. Thing and John Chapman built the chapel, from the plans of H. & J. & E. Billings, architects, of Boston, in the winter of 1845-6. :< :-JkM' A vr ¦/¦I 1 »'£' '¦«* -^ ..- FIRST CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH. The expenses ofthe church from 1846 to 1872 were borne by bidding for choice of pews, over and above the assessed tax. It was then voted that all seats in the house should be free, and the expenses be paid by voluntary contributions. In the " Annals of New England " is the following extract, dated October 25, 104 HISTORICAL SKETCHES 1633, on the subject of contributions to pay expenses in the Boston Church : " After the pastor, Mr. Smith speaks briefly ; then the Elder [agreeably to Acts 13, 14, 15, etc.] desires Governor Winthrop and Mr. Wilson to speak to it, which they do. When this is ended the Deacon, Mr. Fuller, puts the congregation in mind of their duty of contribution, whereupon the Governor and all the rest go down to the Deacon's seat and put it in the bag, and then return." A communion service was presented to the church by the church in South Danvers, September, 1846; this was an old service, having been imported, and was the first used by the South Danvers Church. The hearty thanks ofthe church were returned by the acting pastor. In 1854, a large and beautiful service vi'as presented the church by one of the past officers, — Henry Clark, Esq., of Linden Church, Boston, hold ing the plate. After the above was received, the church voted to give their first service, of nine pieces, to the First Church in Lynnfield Centre, and it was forwarded under the pastoral care of Rev. Mr. Shute. A vote of thanks was rendered to the Swampscott Church September 8, 18^6. Mr. Clark died in Bos ton, at the advanced age of 93 years, from the natural decay of his powers. He was the son of the Rev. Jonas Clark, of Lexington, and father of Rev. J. B. Clark. ' Till an old age, serene and bright, And lovely as a Lapland night, ShaU send thee to thy grave." OF SWAMPSCOTT. 105 A parsonage has been purchased on Rockland Street, and is now occupied by the present pastor. Rev. George A. Jackson. In the purchase of the parsonage, a generous sum donated by the late Eben Weeks was applied. Rev. Mr. Clark's residence, purchased some time after his removal to Swamp scott, was at Beach Bluff, the estate now owned by Mrs. Manton. The pastors of the church have been Rev. J. B. Clark, Dr. Worcester, Rev, Elias Nason, Rev. F. Jones, Rev. John Thomson, Rev. S. H. Alger, Rev. J. M. Whiton, Rev. S. E. Eastman. Superintendents of the Sunday School — Waldo Thompson, W. D. Brackett, Rev. J. B. Clark, Joseph Ropes, Charles A. Torrey, Dr. P. S. Porter, C. A. Haskell, B. W. Redfern. The first parish meeting in that part of Lynn now known as Swampscott, was held July n, 1846, and the following officers were elected : Parish Clerk, Williain D. Brackett; Moderator, E. Redington Mudge; Parish Committee, E. R. Mudge, Waldo Thompson and A. D. Baker. At the above meeting it was voted that John L. Seger and Harris Wiggins be a committee to solicit aid to purchase an organ for the church, and soon after an organ was bought of the Congregational Church, Marblehead. In 1854, the present organ in the church was bought of W. D. Simmons & Co., of Boston, and Miss Jennie Story, daughter of Captain L. D. Story, was placed in charge, and Miss Louis? 16 106 HISTORICAL SKETCHES Martin, W. S. King, Mrs. E. E. Barberie, Miss Mary E. Story and Miss Abbie M. Mott have since acted as organists. Previous to the introduction of the organ, the violin, bass-viol, and other instruments were used, and the choir was located in the gallery under the bell. The bass-viol was played by Mr. Ira Sanborn. The church bell was purchased by contributions from the society members and many of the citizens of the town. "Let great and small the church bell cull Up to the houae of prayer; And at its cry the passer-by Go6s in and worships there.*' The Ladies' Sewing Circle connected with the church and society was organized soon after the church was instituted, in 1846, and has done much from time to time in aid of the society. It is to be regretted that the books ofthe secretaries, previous to 1850, are missing, and it is hoped they may yet be found. The officers for 1883 are as follows: Presi dent, Mrs. H. R. Thompson ; Vice President, Mrs. George A. Jackson ; Secretary, Mrs. Mary E. Bun ting; Treasurer, Mrs. William Seger. Early in the year 1847, the pastor of the church. Rev. J. B. Clark, invited Father Taylor, well-known as connected for many years with the Seamen's Bethel, in Boston, to preach. Hi's serraon was characteristic, and showed great power of thought. He remarked that the " church looked like a ship bottom up." [It is finished to the ridge-pole. J OF SWAMPSCOTT. 107 In the year i775' Rev. Mr. Clark, grandfather of Rev. J. B. Clark, presided over the Congregational Church, at Lexington, Massachusetts. Several years after the formation of the church at Swampscott, its pastor. Rev. J. B. Clark, was invited to preach in the church of his grandfather at Lexington ; he did so, and in the forenoon preached a sermon written by his grandfather, and in the afternoon one of his own. On the Sunday following the death of Rev. Pai'sons Cooke, D. D., of Lynn, Rev. J. B. Clark preached a memorial sermon to the church at Swampscott, tak ing as a text Hebrews xii : 13 ¦ — • " These all died in faith." The first vestry was a donation from William Ropes, of Boston, soon after the church was built. His portrait, executed by Miss C. Colcord, now adorns the vestry walls. He passed several summers at this seaside resort, and took much interest in the Sabbath School. In 1880, a building was erected connecting the vestry and church, twenty by twenty-four feet on the floor, but of the same height as the vestry walls and covered by a flat roof. The interior is divided into two rooms, connected by sliding doors. The church has been served by nine settled or act ing pastors, and is now ably ministered to by Rev. George A. Jackson. Duringthe summer and fall of 1883, and up to March, 1884, while Rev. Mr. Jackson was in Europe on leave of absence, the pulpit was filled by Rev. S. D. Gammell, of Lynn, to the satis faction of his large audiences. 108 HISTORICAL SKETCHES The church has a membership of 85. The Sunday School membership is 130, B. W. Redfern, superin tendent ; volumes in library, 390. The present church officers (1884) are as follows: Rev. George A. Jackson, pastor ; B. W. Redfern, Aaron R. Bunting, James M. Pope, parish committee ; Fredd O. Thompson, parish clerk ; John P. Richard son and Charles P. Jeffers, deacons, the first named having held that position since the fonnation of the church ; Charles O. Galeucia, janitor. The Sunday School connected with the Methodist Church, of Swampscott, was organized in the spring of 1854, during the pastorate of Rev. E. J. Best. W. P. Martin, was the first superintendent, and tlie school consisted of nine meinbers. It was held, as well as the religious services of the society, in the school-house on the beach. The following is a list of superintendents to date : W. P. Martin, 1854-6 ; John Smith, 1856-8; W. D. Brackett, 1858-1864; J. H. Abbott, 1867 to 1869 ; Z. Small, 1869 to 1873 ; S. H. Andrews, 1873. The church was organized in 1854, Rev. E. J. Best being the first pastor, stationed by the New England Conference in April of that year. The author of the above statistics writes: "I en close such meagre statistics as I have been able to glean from the stray records and verbal communica tions accessible. I should be glad to have a better outline of the growth and progress of our Sunday School, but the neglect to keep accurate records from the commencement renders this duty very difficult." OF SWAMPSCOTT. 109 David Atlfins was superintendent from 1876 until 1883, when he resigned; Mrs. Martha Hunt took his place. The school has seventy-five members and a library of five hundred and fifty volumes. The fol lowing have filled the desk since 1876 : Rev. Mr. Dight, in 1876 and 1877 ; Rev. W. H. Hatch, in 1878; Rev. E. N. Kirby, in 1879 and 1880; Rev. N. H. Martin, in 1881 and 18S2 ; Rev. G. W. Coon, in. 1883. The last nained is the present pastor. The church is free from debt, and now " pays as it goes." The church is situated on Redington Street. In 1864, Jacob P. Porter, his wife and two daugii- ters, David Knox and Sylvester Butler, met as a com pany of disciples, at the residence of Jacob P. Porter, for the study of the Scriptures and for the weekly observance of the Lord's Supper. In the spring of 1865, the Christian Chapel, having been built by the liberality of a few brethren in Wor cester, was dedicated March 1 1 . The chapel stands on Burrill Street, opposite Boynton Street. After the dedication. Elder W. L. Hayden held a meeting, which resulted in the gathering of a church of forty members. Orrin Wood, W. A. Smythe, of Worces ter, and Jacob P. Porter, were chosen trustees. Jacob P. Porter and Sylvester Butler were the first elders, and since that time David Knox, Frank O. Ellis and Gilbert Kniveton have served in that capacity, the last two mentioned occupying the position up to date. The present trustees are Orrin Wood, W. A. Smythe and Nathaniel Blanchard. 110 HISTORICAL SKETCHES. W. W. Hayden was the first regular preacher, serving one year, since wdiiob time the church has been served by H. U. Dale, Samuel W. Fowler, Alexauder Marquis, J. W. Lowe, George T. Smith, Howard Murray, George A. Lord, and W. H. Rogers, who cominenced his labors in 1880, and continues in service to the present date. A Lord's Day School was started soon after the church was organized. Sylvester Butler was the first superintendent and held the position for seven years, after which Theron Porter, Frank O. Ellis, George A. Lord and Edwin Keay filled the position, the latter being the present superintendent. A suc ces.sful Sunday School Institute has been held annually. The church has borne an honorable and active part in temperance work and in the promotion of educa tional interests. The Disciples of Christ accept the Bible as their authoritative oracle of faith and practise, and plead for the letter and spirit of Apostolic order in all the essentials of doctrine, worship and organization, preferring Bible names for those which men have given. There is at present a Band of Hope in con nection with the church, under the charge of Gilbert Kniveton. The church is supported by weekly voluntary contributions. The Baptist Church was first known as a Baptist Mission. It originated with a very few persons, resi dents of Swampscott, but connected with churches of this faith in other places, who desired to establish a OF SWAMPSCOTT. Ill Christian home according to their own views, and draw in some who were not connected with either of the other religious societies. The first prayer meet ing was held in November, 1867, and continued weekly at the dwelling-houses, until a church edifice was erected for worship. During the winter seyeral persons were converted, and in the spring united with the High Street Church, Lynn. May 10, 1868, a Sabbath School was formed, with forty-five members. The increase was such that at its first anniversary the total membership was one hundred and twenty-five, and the whole amount of collections $855.31, with a well-furnished room, and a library of three hundred volumes. At the organiza tion of the Sabbath School it was adopted as a Mis sion of High Street, and remained such until the formation of the church, in March, 1872, with a membership of twenty-one persons. Up to this time the place of worship had been the lower room in the Town Hall building. Preaching had been sustained for almost the entire time by the ministers in the association and students from Newton Theological Institution, one each Sabbath, usually in the evening. A lot was secured on. which to erect a building for the use of the society, and the greater part paid for before the church organized. Soon after the church was formed steps were taken to raise money for building purposes, and in August, 1873, the present edifice was dedicated. It is a wooden structure, Gothic in style, with a tower surmounted 112 HISTORICAL SKETCHES by a spire, and painted drab, with darker shade for trimmings. The main audience room has a seating capacity for nearly five hundred persons, and one thing we fail not to notice, that in one respect it differs not from its sister predecessors — it is seldom crowded. The interior is finished in black walnut and ash, and the walls are adorned with neat but simple frescoing. In the rear part of the building is the library room and vestry, with vestibule for en trance, and staircase leading from the ladies' parlor and pastor's study. The cost of the land and struct ure was $15,000. Soon after a permanent ch-urch organization was effected. Rev. Lucian Drury was unanimously called to the pastorate, and labored with untiring perseverance for the prosperity of this branch of Zion, financially and spiritually, for nearly four years, a portion of the time with no remuneration, save the consciousness of faithfully trying to do his duty, through evil as well as good report. Since his labors closed, the desk was filled for a few Sabbaths by other clergymen, and later there was preaching by Rev. Mr. Burroughs, pastor of the Wyoma Church, once each Sabbath. Rev. John E. Dame was the next regular preacher, commencing his labors in August, 1880, and settling in Swampscott. He was a member of the School Board when he resigned his pastorate for another field of duty, at Great Falls, N. H. Rev. T. C. Russell succeeded Mr. Dame, coming to Swampscott from Springvale, Me., in October, OF SWAMPSCOTT. 113 1883, and served one year. His labors, like those of Mr. Dame, were divided between the Baptist societies in Swampscott, and Wyoma, in Lynn. In the year 1867, Rev. J. F. W. Ware, of Balti more, Md., finding himself a suinmer resident in Swampscott, offered to hold a Sunday religious ser vice, provided some place could be procured. It was thought nothing could be done about it at that time, but renewing his proposal the next year, on the 28th of June, 1868, a church was formed, bearing the name ofthe " First Unitarian Church in Swampscott." In assuming the chair, George M. Barnard, said: "For more than a quarter of a century many Unitarian families had resided in Swampscott during the sum mer season, and had been obliged to seek in other places the spiritual instruction which accorded with their views." J. H. Gookin added: "This move ment is not started in a sectarian or proselyting spirit, but has for its aim the organization of a society which shall embrace all who desire to culti vate a large and generous spirit of Christian brother hood." The first service of communion was held August 30 — the communion service having been kindly loaned by the First Congregational Society of Swamp scott. Subsequently a "service" was presented, by some of the ladies, to the church. For some time re ligious services were held at the Town Hall during the summer months — sometimes a little longer. In addition to the morning preaching, Mr. Ware, for '7 114 HISTORICAL SKETCHES several years, gave afternoon lectures, more especially adapted to the young, filling the hall with the inhabit ants of the neighborhood, and holding a sunset ser vice on " Cannon Hill," until a severe disease of the throat compelled him to relinquish it. The fact that Unitarian services were held in Swampscott influenced many in their selection of a summer abode. In 1859, through the influence of Hon. E. R. Mudge and summer residents of Swampscott, and Ocean Street, an edifice known as St. Andrew's Episcopal Chapel was erected just across the Lynn line, on Michigan Avenue. Episcopal services were held here during the summer season, until 1876, when the worshippers scattered to the other churches of Lynn and Swampscott — many going with the Rev. Dr. Ware to the Town Hall. The chapel has since stood unoccupied, awaiting an act of the Legislature for its disposal. During the winter of 18771 it was proposed by Rev. C. W. Biddle, then pastor of the First Universalist Church, Lynn, B. F. Spinney, superintendent of the Sunday School, B. W. Currier, and other interested parties, that a branch Universalist Sunday School be established in Swampscott. It was suggested that a series of meetings be holden in the Town Hall, in order to confer with the Swampscott people, and to hear their views on the matter. Accordingly meet ings were held and largely attended, and quite an in terest was taken from the commencement. The sub ject was freely discussed, some favoring, others think- OF SWAMPSCOTT. 115 ing that the time had not arrived to start a school. It was finally concluded that a school be organized at once, all interested agreeing to use every endeavor to make it a success. A meeting for organization was held February 4, 1877, at the house of Mrs. William Collins, Rock Avenue. The attendance was quite large, and all seemed to be in earnest. David N. Johnson was chosen Chairman, and Frank E. Ingalls, Secretary, fhe enterprise was freely discussed, and viewed in every light, and on motion of James M. Sargent, it was voted to organize the school. A committee of five was appointed by the chair to present a list of officers for the school. The following persons were appointed: B. F. Spinney, Curtis V. Merritt, Frank E. Ingalls, Mrs. George Hobby, Miss Anna Stimpson, who presented the fol lowing names for officers of the school : Superin tendent, Frank E. Ingalls ; Vice Superintendent, Cur tis V. Merritt ; Treasurer, Gilbert Delano ; Librarian, Henry Collins ; Assistant Librarian, Crowell Rodman. A canvassing committee, consisting of the follow ing persons, were selected to ascertain what aid and material could be procured, and report at an adjourned meeting : Mrs. Samuel Parker, Mrs. George Hobby, Miss Anna Stimpson, Mrs. Gilbert Delano, Miss Eva Chapman, Miss Mary Palmer. At the call of the committee a meeting was holden at the house of John Chaptrian, to hear the report of the canvassing committee. B. F. Spinney was chosen Chairman, and Frank E. Ingalls, Secretary. The 116 HISTORICAL SKETCHES committee met with fine success, and presented the names of fifty who wished to become members of the school ; also contributions amounting to seventy dol lars. The evening was spent in classifying the scholars presented. It was decided to commence the work as soon as possible. The first session of the school was holden at the Town Hall, Swampscott, Sunday, February ii, 1877, at 3, p. M. The hall was filled to overflowing, and the success of the school was assured. Present-^ teachers and officers, 13 ; scholars, 68 ; visitors, 75. Total, 156. Rev. C. W. Biddle, pastor of the First Universalist Church, Lynn, and B. F. Spinney, super intendent of the Lynn School, spoke words of en couragement, and all entered heartily' in the work. . Classes were formed and teachers assigned their places, and all seemed to enjoy this the first session of the Swampscott Universalist Sunday School. Shortly after the organization of the school they were presented with a fine library of two hundred and eighty-three volumes of carefully selected read ing from the Lynn School. The gift was greatly appreciated. A short time after, a fine organ was procured by contributions from Swampscott and Lynn friends. The library numbers three hundred and fifty-three volumes. The school contributed toward the Lynn Church debt $148.68, and has at present upwards of $100 in the bank. The school is nearly seven j-ears old, dur ing which time a deep interest has been manifested. oif SWAMPSCOTT. 117 and has steadily increased in numbers. At present the membership of the school is one hundred and thirty-four. January 3, 1866, Seaside Lodge of Good Templars was organized in Swampscott. At a regular meeting of the lodge, held February 14, 1866, in the vestry of the Congregational Church, the officers were in stalled for the ensuing term, as follows: W. C. T., Frederick O. Ellis ; W. V. T., Amelia Foster ; W. S., Celia I. Holden; W. R. S., C. J. Millett; W. L. S., H. R. Thompson. The lodge when first formed met in the above-named place, but soon after removed to the Town Hall; they had a membership at one time of two hundred. At one of their meetings, J. Warren Newhall, of Lynn, visited the lodge, and when in the Town Hall, at the close of the evening session, he lost his cane through a hole in the floor, much to his surprise ; the janitor soon restored it, the cane having landed in the cellar. After a few years the charter was surrendered. Only two of the charter members are now connected with the order — Mrs. C. J. Millett and Miss Celia I. Holden. February 6, 1876, Dr. Reynolds lectured in the Town Hall. Those interested in the cause of tem perance, thus started, soon formed the Swampscott Reform Club, which was organized with a member ship of fifty, and rapidly increased until it numbered two hundred and eighty-six. The first oflScers were : President, John Washburn ; Vice Presidents, Thoinas Gannon, B. M. Green and Robert Wiley. The club 118 HISTORICAL SKETCHES. has done good work in the cause of temperance, and is still in existence. The Women's Christian Temperance Union was or ganized by Mrs. Ward, of Salem, on the evening of February i6, 1876, with the following board of offi cers : President, Mrs. Bertha F. Eastman ; Vice President, Mrs. Bartlett ; Treasurer, Miss Knowles ; Secretary, Miss Colcord. There were one hundred and thirty-six members. The influence of this organ ization has been, and'is being, felt in many ways. Owing to the efforts of Captain William A. Phil lips, John Chapman, John L. Seger and others, a Watchers' Society was organized June 9, 1849. This society has been a success, and still does much to comfort and care for the sick. The following is a list of the officers of the organization from the year 1849 to the present time, with their time of service : — Presidents : John Story, three years ; John Chapman, twenty-one years ; Charles W^. Haskell, elected in 1884. Secretaries: John L. Seger, seven years; A. L. Harris, three years; W. D. Brackett, Jr., four years ; Frank E. Ingalls, six years ; Curtis V. Mer ritt, tvvo years; H. Byron Martin, eight years, and is the present secretary. CHAPTER XI. ORGANIZATION OF THE TOWN. Incorporation of Town of Sivampscott. — First Town Meeting. — First BirtJi and Marriage. — Rate of Taxation. — Statistics in 1865. — Town Report', February, 1885. — Annexation of part of Salem. Agreeably to a petition of the inhabitants, an act was passed by the Legislature incorporating Swamp scott as a separate town, the bill receiving the signa ture of Governor George S. Boutwell, May 21, 1852. The Act of Incorporation is as follows : Section i. That portion of the city of Lynn, lying east erly of a line commencing at a point upon the centre of the bridge which crosses Stacy's Brook, so called at King's Beach, thence running from said point south, twelve degrees east by compass to the ocean, and running north from said point twelve degrees west by compass to the line which separates the city of Lynn from the city of Salem, is hereby incorporated into a town by the narae of Swampscott; and the inhabitants of said town of Swampscott are hereby invested with all the powers and privileges, and shall be subjected to the duties and requisitions of other incorporated towns, according to the constitution and laws of the Commonwealth. 120 HISTORICAL SKETCHES Sect. 2. The inhabitants of said town of Swampscott shall be holden to pay all arrears of taxes which have been assessed upon them by the city of Lynn, before the passing of this act, and also their proportion of all county and State taxes that may be assessed upon said property previously to the taking of the next State valuation, said proportion to be ascertained and determined by the last city valuation ; and said town of Swampscott shall be holden to pay their proportion of the debts due and owing, at the time ofthe passage of this act, from the city of Lynn, and be entitled to receive of the city of Lynn their proportion of all corporate property now owned by said city of Lynn, such proportion to be deter mined by the last valuation of said city of Lynn; provided, tiotuever, that the city of Lynn shall be authorized to collect the tAs. which may have been assessed by virtue of law on the first of May, this current year, upon the inhabitants and owners of propert}' in said Swampscott; and the said city of Lynn, after deducting the reasonable expenses of assessing and collecting the same, shall account with and pay over the same to the Town Treasurer of said Swampscott; and said city of Lynn shall incur no liability for said town of Swamp scott after the passage of this act. Sect. 3. Said city of Lynn and town of Swampscott shall be respectively liable for the support of all persons who now do, or hereafter shall, stand in need of relief as paupers, whose settlement was gained or derived from the settlement gained, or derived within their respective limits. Sect. 4. In case said city of Lynn and town of Swamp scott shall disagree in respect to the division of paupers, city property, city debts or State and county taxes^ the €ourt of Common Pleas for the county of Essex is hereby authorized to, and shall, on application of said city of Lynn, or of said town of Swampscott, appoint three disinterested persons to hear the parties and award thereon ; which award when {iccepted by said court shall be final. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 121 Sect. 5. The town of Swampscott shall, for the purpose of electing the representatives to the General Court, to which the territory comprised in the city of Lynn is now entitled until the next decennial census, or until another apportion ment of representatives be made, remain a part of said city of Lynn. And the inhabitants of said Swampscott shall vote for the number of representatives which tbe city authori ties of Lynn may decide shall be elected annually in town meeting. And it shall be the duty of the Selectmen of said Swampscott to preside at said town meeting, and receive the votes ; and the certificate thereof shall be made by the Se lectmen and certified by the Town Clerk of said Swampscott, whose duty it shall be to make return thereof to the Mayor and Alderraen of the said city of Lynn, within forty-eight hours ofthe day of voting; and the votes shall be counted by the said Mayor and Aldermen as a part ofthe vote ofthe said city of Lynn. Sect. 6. Any Justice of the Peace in the county of Essex is hereby authorized to issue his warrant to any principal in habitant of the town of Swampscott, requiring him to warn the inhabitants of said town to meet at the time and place therein appointed, for the purpose of choosing all such town officers as towns are by law authorized and required to choose at their annual meetings. Sect. 7. This act shall take eftect from and after its passage. The news of the signing of the act by Governor Boutwell was soon spread, and was the cause of great rejoicing. Flags were displayed, bells rung, and a heavy roar of artillery proclaimed that the citizens of Swampscott were aware of their importance as a town of the good- old Comraonwealth of Massachu setts. In honor of the event a procession was formecl |8 122 HISTORICAL SKETCHES under the marshalship of Colonel Thonias Alker, and accompanied by a band of music it marched through the principal streets of the town. Ainong the ban ners displayed in the ranks was a venerable ensign which floated in the breeze at the masthead of the re nowned frigate " Constitution," when she fought with and captured the " Guerriere." In front of the shoe shop of John Story, 2d, was suspended a banner bearing this incription : " Swarapscott, settled, A. D. 1629, by Francis Ingalls; Swarapscott incorporated seal of SWAMPSCOTT. as a town. May 21, A.D. 1852." The procession halted in front of the writer's store and post dtfice, where they listened to an eloquent address by Rev. Jonas B. Clark. In the evening the sky was raade brilliant by the discharge of fireworks, and Dr. J. B. Holder caused a fire balloon to be sent up. Ainong the persons assembled to witness the celebration was a man belonging in Lynn, whose name the writer never knew, and after the oration he delivered the fol lowing, written for the occasion : — OF SWAMtSCOTT. 123 " Come, all you honest fishermen, and Usten to my story, And I will tell you of a town that now is in its glory. Swampscott is a town so neat, set off by legislators, Who have good fish and also meat, and plenty good potatoes. The Swampscott men are wide awake, now they have left the city, And they their own laws now can make, if not it is a pity. Our flag last week was Union down, and then it was half-mast, sir, But now we have the Union up, we hope 'twill always last, sir. Lawyer Brown, of Woodfield town, and onr brave Senator Alley, And George Hood — they thought it good against our act to rally; But after all that they have done to have our act defeated, We are set oft", and soon shall have all our work completed. Parson Clark, if you will hark, delivered our oration, And he is as good as any man we have in our free nation. Our Squire Waldo, he can do the business here completely; Although our numbers here are few, we'll have it done up neatly. We have a man in our town, they call him Uncle Story, He and his children and his wife, are all now in their glory. The following was the petition of prominent citi zens to a justice of the peace to draw up a warrant for a town meeting: — To Waldo Thompson, Esquire, Justice ofthe Peace, with and for the County of Essex. The undersigned, inhabitants ofthe Town of Swampscott, and legal voters, pray that jou will, as soon as may be, issue n warrant to some principal inhabitant of said Swampscott, directing him to notify the legal voters of said Swampscott to meet at some place and time specified in said warrant, for the organization of said town, and for the choice of all such officers as towns may and are required by law to choose. Signed — Henry J. Thing, John L. Seger, Moses Nesbitt, Jr., John B. Richard.son, W. W. Marshall, F. A. Pickering, N. C. Wiley, Edmund Knowles, William D. Rowe, Thomas Widger. 124 HISTORICAL SKETCHES This petition resulted in the issuing of the follow ing : Commonwealth OF Massachusetts. Essex ss. To Henry J. Thing, of the Town of Swampscott, in said County. In the name of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts you are hereby required to warn the freeholders and other inhabit ants of the town of Swampscott, qualified to vote in town affairs, to assemble at the Atlantic Engine Hall, in said town, on Saturday, the fifth day of June next, at ten o'clock in the forenoon, then and there to act on the following articles, to wit — Article i. To choose a Moderator of said meeting. Art. 2. To choose all necessary town officers for the organization of the town of Swampscott, and for conducting the same for the current year. Art. 3. To raise such sums of money as maj' be neces sary to defray the expenses incident to the incorporation and organization of the town, and to meet the town charges the current year, and make appropriations of the same. Art. 4. To determine the manner of repairing the high ways and bridges the current year. Art. 5. To know if the town will authorize their Select men to establish the boundary line between this town and the city of Lynn, by erecting suitable monuments, and to settle all matters with said city pertaining to the division of the public property of said city, and to adjust all matters neces sary to be settled with said city, by reason of-the act of in corporation of the town of Swampscott, and in conformity thereto, and to pay all bills necessarily incurred in obtaining said act of incorporation, and in effecting the organization of the town, and such as may become necessary in establishing said line and in effecting said settlement. Art. 6. To see what the town will do in reference to pro curing a public burial ground. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 125 Art. 7. To transact all business that may legally come before the meeting. Hereof fail not and make due return of this warrant and of your doings thereon, unto me, on or before the fifth day of June, 1852. Dated at Sivampscott, the twenty-eighth day of Mav, A. D. 1852. WALDO THOMPSON, Justice ofthe Peace. Essex ss. Swampscott, June 5, A. D. 1852. Bj' virtue of this warrant I have warned the freeholders and other inhabit ants of the town of Swampscott, qualified to vote in town affairs, to assemble at the time and place and for the purpose therein mentioned, bv posting a true copy of said warrant in six of the most public places in said Swampscott. Signed : HENRY J. THING. Essex ss. Swampscott, June 5, 1852. Then personally appeared the above-named Henry J. Thing, and made oath that the foregoing return is true. Before me, WALDO THOMPSON, Justice of the Peace. The citizens of the town having met in accordance with the warrant, the meeting was called to order by Waldo Thompson. A ballot for Moderator resulted in the choice of Samuel C. Pitman. Ah elegant black walnut ballot-box was then presented to the town by Leonard Thompson, Jr., of Woburn, Mass. On one end was " Swampscott, 1S52," in gilt letters ; on the opposite end a shield of Liberty. The follow ing letter was read : 12(; HISTORICAL SKfiTCHES To tke -Voters of Swampscott — Gentlemen : — Please accept the gift accompanying this note as a slight testimonial of respect for your unwearying kindness, in friendly inter course with the many visitors to your pleasant town, and what should be as widely known, that steady regard for popular government, mutual iraprovement and equal rights, whieh ever has and ever shall characterize the results of de positing the intelligent strong will of the people even in a frail ballot-box. With many wishes for your continued pros perity, I am. Yours Respectfully, LEONARD THOMPSON, Jr. Woburn, June i, 1852. A vote of thanks was given to Leonard Thompson, Jr., for the gift of thc ballot-box. The following is a list of the officers chosen at this meeting, those marked witli a star having since de ceased : Selectmen, Samuel C. Pitman,* Eben B. Piiillips,* Henry J. Thing ;* Town Clerk, Joint L. Seger; Treasurer, John Chapman, Jr. ; Assessors, J. F. Phillips,* Thomas Stone, Jr.,* Allen Wash burn ;* School Committee, Jonas' B. Clark, Henry PL Plall, Edward Woodford; Overseers of the Poor, Williain D. Rowe,* Mark G. Phillips,* John B. Richardson ; Surveyors of Highways, Allen Wash burn,* Jonathan F. Phillips;* Constables, B. PL Davis,* Nathaniel Galeucia, Charles Leavitt ;* Tyth ingmen, William Widger,* J. P. Blaney,* John Wil kins;* Mea.surer of Wood and Bark, Philander Hol den ; Surveyor of Lumber, Moses Gilbert; Field Drivers, A. C. Newhall, James Nesbitt,* S. R. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 127 Bartlett,* Williani Galeucia ; Pound Keeper, Jacob Wilford ; Board of Health, James Nesbitt,* J. B. Holder, A. C. Newhall ; Fence Viewers, Allen Washburn,* Ebenezer Weeks,* Fitzwilliam Grilfin ;* Sealer of Weights and Measures, John B. Richardson. At the adjourned town meeting, held on June 26, 1S52, it was voted "That the by-laws, now read as presented by a committee chosen at a previous meet ing, be approved and accepted, and that the fore going by-laws be presented to the Court of Common Pleas, for this county, at the ensuing term, that the same may be approved and passed into laws." January i, 1S53, the by-laws were examined and approved,. The balance due the city of Lynn, October 9, 1S52, was $5450. New by-laws were adopted by the town March 19, iSSo, and approved by the court, January 5, iSSi. The whole number of voters at the first town meeting was one hundred and fifty-five. Each voter's name was recorded before casting his ballot. Henry J. Thing, J. B. Phillips and Ebenezer Weeks were the first Auditors of the town. According to their report, dated March i, 1S53, '^e town debt was $4500. Whole number of polls in town in the year 1S59, f'^"'' hundred and four; rate of taxation, $4.60 per $1000. The first town meeting held in the Town Hall was March 9, 1S61 . Rev. J. B. Clark opened the meeting with prayer. Eben N. Wardwell presided as Moder ator. The land for the struQture was purchased of 12S historical skktches. John Proctor ; the carpenter work by John Chapman : masonry, by Horace M. Norton ; painting, liy Charles A.Morris. Total cost of building, $4614.01. A llagstalT was erectecl on tiie grounds surrounding the hall May 15, 1S61. In 1882, a large addition was built to the rear of the hall at a cost of $2588.14 ; the whole was newly painted and the ceiling frescoed, and now the building is sufficiently large to meet the requirements of the town. The cemetery is pleasantly located in the northern part ofthe town, being situate on Essex Street, about three-quarters of a mile from the Eastern Railroad depot. The land was purchased of Colonel C. A. Stetson, October 11, 1852, at a cost of $1500. The grounds were graded and laid out in lots, and on the sixteenth of September, 1S54, '^he cemetery was con secrated, with appropriate services, the address being given by Rev. Jonas B. Clark. Additional land was given to the town by Ebenezer Weeks. " AU nations rose from earth at first, And turn to earth again." First death registered in town. May 27, 1852, Lucy E. Thomas, one month and six days. John Seger, aged sixty-four, was the first person buried in the cemetery. Pie had been buried at Lynn Eastern Burial Ground, July 31, 1852, and was moved to Swampscott Cemetery, November 4, 1854. Whole number of interments in the cemetery up to January i, 18S5, seven hundred and fifty-eight. The town has a new receiving tomb finished in 1884. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 129 The first birth in town. May 30,1852, John Frederick Ingalls, son of Ephraim and Elizabeth C. Ingalls. First record of marriage was between E. T. Heath and Hannah M. Newland, of Marblehead. In 1865, there were 16 marriages, 49 births and 24 deaths in Swampscott. In the year 1865, there were three master builders, one boat builder, one blacksmith shop, one tin-ware shop. Vessels employed in the mackerel and cod fish ing business, 50, and dories, 31 ; tonnage, 1309. Bar rels of mackerel taken, 3875, value $42,325 ; quintals of cod fish, 7127, valued at $42,233 ; value of cod liver oil sold, $5265 ; value of salt consumed, $3720 ; hands employed, 199. Farmers, 29. Acres, 1329. Value, including buildings, $209,760. Acres of land im proved, 500. Persons employed, 69. Value of onion crop, $12,390; cabbages, $499; winter squashes, $560 ; hay, $9345. Horses, 98 ; value $11,255. Lob sters trapped, 37,000. Value offish, spawns and livers, $200,150. Large amounts of spawn are gathered in the spring, barreled up and shipped to the Mediter ranean Sea, to be used as bait in the sardine fisheries. In the year 1S73, there were 59 births in Swamp scott, 31 females and 28 males; 12 of these were born in the month of December, 6 of thera being males and 6 females. There were 38 deaths, 20 females and 18 males, 7 of these being in August and 7 in November. Tax rate, $12 on $1000. There were 39 deaths in Swampscott in 1876, and 23 marriages. 19 130 HISTORICAL SKETCHES. There were 37 deaths in Swampscott in 1878, two of which were those of non-residents. Mrs. Sally Gilbert was the oldest, and Mrs. Sally Seger, aged 81, the next oldest. There were 18 marriages and 56 births in town. There were 632 names on the voting list in 1878. In the year 1877, there were 39 deaths in Swamp scott. In i86i, the rate of taxation was $5.70 on $1000. Number of voters, 319. February, 1884. Public property in town, $51,861. Births : males, 23 ; females, 20 ; total, 43. Mar riages recorded, 26. Deaths: males, 18; females, 17 ; total, 35. Number of dogs licensed, 114 ; males, 104; females, 10. Total number of acres of land assessed in town, 1563 ; dwelling houses, 535 ; polls, 633. Tax $10.00 on $1000. April 3, 1867, a narrow strip of land, formerly a part of Salem, was annexed to Swampscott : it ex tended to the seashore between Marblehead and Swampscott. TOWN HALL- CHAPTER XII. TOWN IMPROVEMENTS. Town Library. — Post Office. — Fire Engines. — Eastern Railroad. — Swampscott Branch Rail road. — Horse Railroad. — Cheap Transporta tion. — Water Pipes. — Street Lamps. During 1884, a tower was built on the Town Hall, containing a bell connected with a fire alarm system, having eight boxes; also a fine " Howard" clock. Cost $660. During the day alarms can be given from the central ofiice, located in Jeffers' drug store, and at night a man is on duty at the engine house. This clock was furnished by voluntary contributions, and the names may be found in the Town Records. About the year 1S52, Dr. William R. Lawrence, of Boston, a summer resident in Swampscott, conceived the idea of founding a town library, and to start the plan he contributed upwards of one hundred and fifty volumes and $100 in money. At the town meeting held October 9, 1852, it was voted to accept the proposition made by Dr. Lawrence, and the Se lectmen appointed a board of officers. Rev. Jonas B. Clark serving as President. The library opened with 132 HISTORICAL SKETCHES two hundred and forty volumes, and the plan adopted by the board of officers was that individuals become voluntary members and pay a small sum annually, so long as they remained members, the money thus col lected to be used to secure new books, etc. The li brary to be a Town Library, and the plan adopted did not convey an}' ownership of books to the mem bers. Whether the library suffered from lack of patronage or need of good books, it had an inglorious death, and the mutilated books that were left' after a few years' struggle to make a good impression on the minds of Swampscotters, were stowed away in two boxes, where they remained in quiet seclusion for several years. In 1868, the town appropriated a sum of money to fit up a room in the Town Hall, to be used as a library. This work was done, and Curtis V. Merritt was appointed Librarian, with power from the Selectmen to solicit subscriptions. Mr. Merritt succeeded in raising a neat little sum, with whicii new and popular books were purchased and added to the old ones, and the library again started with about four hundred volumes on the shelves. The enterprise proved very popular, soon demanding more commodious quarters, and a large addition was made to the library room. Mr. Merritt was aided in his duties, at different times, by Masters George Cros man, Edward Crosman and George T. Till. Messrs. Fred O. Ellis, Benjamin Potter and Charles A. Has kell, 2d, served the town as Trustees of the Libraiy without pay. During the year ending February 28, OF SWAMPSCOTT. 133 1883, another addition was made to the library room, the ceilings being decorated, new gas fixtures added, and a new carpet laid. Six fine oil paintings, the gift of Mrs. E. R. Mudge, now adorn the walls. Miss Kittie Honors is Librai-ian, assisted by Masters Bertie Stone and John Earp ; Curtis V. Merritt, George H. Holden and F. F. Stanley, serving as trustees. Volumes in library, four thousand seven hundred and thirty-five. In the year 1846, the writer, at the request of a number of citizens in the village of Swampscott, drew up and circulated a petition to the Postmaster General for the purpose of securing an established post office in the village. Several other petitions had been presented in the years gone by, but for some reason had failed to secure the desired end. T'he petition was generally signed by all to whose atten tion it was brought. I only recall one person declin ing to affix his signature, he declining on the ground that " as he neither wrote or received any letters, he could not see the necessity of an office in Swamp scott." John L. Seger, at that time a clerk in my store, did much toward securing many signers to the petition. In due time the petition was forwarded to the proper authorities at Washington, D. C, and at length an office was established at Swampscott, and the writer received the commission as postmaster, re ceiving in payment for his services fifty dollars per year and the " franking" privilege. For a number of years, previous to the post office 134 HISTORICAL SKETCHES being established at Swampscott, " Father Story," on returning from selling his fish in Lynn, would bring and distribute all letters, receiving two cents each for them. Soon the office received two mails from Lynn per day, and sent out two, Benjamin Pierce, driver of Goldthwait's omnibus, running from Lynn to Mar blehead, acting as mail carrier. The business of the office increased from year to year, and in 1861 there were one hundred boxes, where in 1846 there were only twelve. In 1861, Daniel P. Stimpson was ap pointed to the position of postmaster, he holding the commission until October i, 1866, when Jacob Porter was appointed to the charge of the office as post master, and his son Joseph as his assistant. The post office was then removed to his apothecary store, in Widger's block, where it remained until June i, 1869, when Mr. Stimpson was reappointed as postmaster, which position he had held up to the present time, January, 1885. The office now contains three hundred and fifty boxes. A list of letters is posted in the out side office on the arrival of each mail. Mr. Hilton, David Austin and James Wheeler have at different times acted as mail carriers, Deacon James Wheeler being the present carrier, the mail being taken to and from the depot of the Eastern Railroad at Swampscott. There are at present five mails re ceived, and four mails sent from the office per day. In 1S76, during the months of June, July and August, there were 15,400 letters handled at the office. In the corresponding months in 1877, 16,516 letters, show- OF SWAMPSCOTT. 135 ing an increase of 1116. In June, July and August, 1883, there were 24,331 letters, and 6301 pieces of third and fourth-class matter. Mr. Stimpson, the present postmaster, is assisted in his duties by Miss Nellie A. Martin. A post office was established September i, 1879, at Beach Bluff", with A. Wesley Clough as postmaster, and James O. Sanborn as assistant. They handle four mails per day from June to November, and two mails per day for the remaining period. "In" mails, sent from September i to December 31, 1879, '^°"' tained 5000 pieces; for the year 1880, 22,000; 1881, 24,000; 1882, 25,000; 1883, 38,000 pieces, showing that the business of this office as well as the main office is rapidly increasing. The Eastern Railroad Company was incorporated April 14, 1836, and a track of the road was opened from East Boston to Salem, August 27, 1838. One thousand persons passed over the road the first day. On the arrival of the train at East Boston the pas sengers left the cars and went on board a ferry boat, which soon landed them on the Boston side, near the foot of Commercial Street. On the 27th of August I saw, at 10.30 A. M., the first passenger train passed through Swampscott, on the road to Salem. " First, the shrill whistle, then the distant roar. The ascending cloud of steam, the gleaming brass, Thc mighty moving arm; and on amain The mass comes thundering, like an avalanche o'er The quaking earth ; a thousand faces passed — A moment, and are gone, like whirlwind sprites. 136 HISTORICAL SKETCHES Scarce seen; so nmch the roaring speed benights Atl sense and recognition for a while; A little space, a minute and a mile ! Then look again — how swift it journeys on ; Away, away, along the horizon. Like drifted clouds to its determined |)lace; Power, speed and distance, melting into space!" Previous to the opening ofthe road, people went to and from Boston in stages. These stages would start from the old Elm Street Tavern in Boston, and thence over the old turnpike to the West Lynn Hotel. In the summer of 1S3S, I was sent to the seashore at Swampscott for my health. Arriving in Boston, I took my seat in the stage at the tavern naraed, and was soon on the way. At the West Lynn Hotel I was transferred to a buggy owned by the stage com pany, and taken to Ebenezer Weeks' house, Swamp scott, where I spent several weeks, gaining rapidly in health and strength. Cost of ride from Boston to Swampscott, fifty cents. A short time after the opening of the railroad a depot was established at the easterly end of the bridge, near the present cemetery, to accommodate Swamp scott and Marblehead passengers. From the depot a stage made four trips daily to Marblehead. This depot did not furnish sufficient accommodations for Swampscott passengers, and a petition was presented to President Neal by Hon. Cyrus Washburn and others, for a depot where the station now stands ; this petition was granted, and a building was erected ten by twenty feet, and was devoted to the several OF SWAMPSCOTT. 137 uses of ticket office, waiting room, baggage room and store room. Daniel F. Proctor was appointed ticket master, which position he held until August IO, 1877 ' George R. Hussey is station master at the present time (1884). Swampscott now has a first- class station with a neat clock in the tower, and ample space about the building for the use of its patrons. Here can be found conveyances to take passengers to their several destinations, among them being those of the veteran John Washburn, who for more than thirty summers has transported passengers to and from the station, and of whom it has been said that he never lost a train but once, and then he was waiting for a newly-wedded couple. In 1873, October 20, a branch road was opened from Swampscott to Marblehead, four miles in length, and called the Swampscott Branch Railroad. E. B. Phillips, J. P. Palmer and others, exerted their in fluence to have it constructed, and now it has hand some stations along the line, and many beautiful residences have been built on the attractive seashore route. During the summer season many more trains are run on this branch than in the winter. The advent of the steam cars has done much toward mak ing Swampscott a noted summer resort, it being about thirty minutes' ride from Boston. Hundreds of people are carried to the city in the morning, return ing at night, while many others stay for a week or more, and then depart for other resorts, being able to travel the required distance rapidly by the aid of the 138 HISTORICAL SKETCHES Eastern and other railroads. It is estimated there have been as many as fifteen thousand people, perma nent and transient guests, in Swampscott, in a single season. In July, 1883, there were thirty-five pas senger trains going east, and thirty-five going west, and nine freight trains each way, per day, over the main line of the Eastern Railroad, a total of eighty- eight regular trains. The Eastern Railroad Station in Boston, at the present day, is on Causeway Street, opposite Friend Street. Horse cars and omnibuses run every few minutes to all parts of the city. It is one of the most spacious stations in the city, the inward and outward- bound trains having distinct tracks, so that liability of mistake in entering cars is greatly lessened, and much confusion avoided. The principal freight dejjot of the road is now at Charlestown. Officers of the com pany have rooms upon the second floor of the pas senger station, for the transaction of business. In the Lynn Daily Item of February 20, 1882, it is stated that railroad station agents see a good deal of life, and many strange things are brought to their notice. The average man or woman coming to the ticket window is generally confused as to how to express the want which they feel. Perhaps a good illustration of this may be had by a perusal of the fol lowing list of names which would-be purchasers of a commutation ticket -between Boston and Lynn have given at the Eastern Railroad Station : Commenda tion, communication, combination, compensation. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 139 computation, communion, complimentary, chip, clip, card, club, billet, bunch, baggage-ticket-what-do-you- call-them, slip, season, trip, long ticket, dollar ticket, one-of-those-things-you-know-what, full ticket, five ride, punch, package and excursion ticket. Previous to the year 1881, people from Swampscott desiring to ride on the horse cars were obliged to pass King's Beach, by way of Humphrey and Ocean Streets, to the terminus at the foot of Lewis Street. In the spring of 1881, however, after some opposition, the Lynn and Boston Horse Railroad was extended to Mudge's .Square, and on Saturday evening, about six o'clock, May 14, 1881, the first passenger car passed over the line into Swampscott, and regular trips were commenced on the following week. The cars make trips every fifteen minutes between Swamp scott and Lynn, transferring passengers to such cars as may connect, for all parts of the city, at one fare. In May, 1882, the Upper Swampscott track was ex tended to the head of Burrill Street, on Essex Street. Fare from any part of Swampscott to any part of Lynn, five tickets for twenty-five cents. Many Lynn jjeople have built tasteful cottages in Swamp scott, and go to and from their work on the horse cars. In the summer of 1884, the line was extended to Marblehead. The cars began running June 25th, and at once met with an unexpected patronage. Three thousand people are said to have been carried over tlie road in one day soon after its completion. 140 HISTORICAL SKETCHES It runs past Phillips Beach Station and the head of Beach Bluff' Avenue. " Hail! to-day cheap transportation Comes in triumph to our station ; Bearing in its train the story Anti-monopoly, the people's glory! Roll it along, through all tlie town. The people's right-cheap transportation ! See the people come to meet us ! At tlie station many greet us ! All take Seats wilh exultation. Glory in cheap transportation." In June, 1884, the Lynn and Boston Railroad Co., erected a large stable 280 x 35 feet, containing one hundred and one stalls, and also a car-shed 237 x 44 feet, being large enough to store thirty-two cars, on the site of the old " Duck-house," (this was moved to Chippewa Court in Lynn). The stable is lighted by gas, has Lynn water, and all modern improvements. A blacksmith's shop is conveniently located in the rear of the stable. Previous to the year 1824, there were no engines for putting out fires in the village of Swampscott. Feel ing the need of an engine to insure their safety, the citizens petitioned the town (Lynn) for the necessary apparatus. The petition was granted, and the "As sistant," built by Thayer, of Boston, was shortly after received and kept in a small house, built for the pur pose, on a ledge at Blaney's Beach. It was a " tiny little tub," but in the hands of Foreman Ephraim Taylor, and his crew, did effective service when needed. The law of the State exempted any man OF SWAMPSCOTT. 141 serving in a fire-engine company from railitary dutj'. After nearly twenty-five years, it was found that the old building had been rendered useless by wear and from its exposed position, and that the machine was nearly " played out." A new house was built on Humphrey Street, and a new engine, the "Atlantic," No. 7, purchased, and with an efficient crew, consist ing of strong and J0II3' fisherinen, was ready for instant use in time of need. After many years the house was removed to a site on New Ocean Street, where it still stands. Ainong the first foremen were Ephraim Taylor, E. Ingalls, W. A. Phillips, P. L. Seger, F. E. Andrews, Allen Washburn and John Chapman. It is not too much to say that for stalwart men, who could bend on to the brakes and stick there, no com pany in the vicinity excelled the old " Atlantic." They pulled the machine along steady as truck horses, and walked her up to a fire like a thing of life. She could work — and play. One old fireman says, "I have seen her lifted clean off the ground at each end, when the boys would 'jump her' in earnest." The tub never lacked for volunteers, and many a Lewis- streeter caught on and " manned the rope" as she was rushed along on the way to a fire. The " Atlantic" always had water enough and to .spare. Sometimes the boys would encounter a rival company, and a race would be the result, when one company would " wing out" its brakes and keep the other from pass ing them. Lynn firemen were up to all the dodges. 142 HISTORICAL SKETCHES. and the Swampscotts usually did their best to dodge them. In the year 1883, it was voted to purchase a steam fire engine, ofthe most approved make. The school- house, which was located on Essex Street, near the cemetery, was removed to New Ocean Street, and prepared for the reception of the new engine, named " Swampscott, No. i." The steamer — a "Silsby" machine — has proved itself able to do effective work, and it is a credit to the makers and to the town. A fire department has been organized, with the follow ing officers: Chief Engineer, D. Holman Millett; Assistants, Robert Harris, Ivory Emmons. In the fall of 18S2 and spring of 18S3, there were laid in the streets of the town, about fourteen thou sand feet of water pipes. George H. Norman, of Newport, R. I., being the contractor. The new patent ballot-box was first used at the November, 1884, election. Since 1882, the streets of the town have been well lighted by one hundred and twenty-five lamps. In 1845, Edwin Walden commence the sale of weekly newspapers, magazines, etc., forj. L. Alger, of Lynn, one year; B. F. Brackett, two years; then Mr. Walden bought and run the business two years, and sold to J. M. Munroe in 1850. The route was Saugus, Lynn and Swarapscott. Mr. Walden called often at the writer's store in Swampscott with his bundle of papers, and once made the remark that Swampscott was the best paying part of his route. CHAPTER XIIL SCHOOLS. ScJiool-Jiouses and ScJiools. — TeacJiers in 1883. Previous to the year 1794, Lynn had only one school-house, situated near the easterly boundary of land now used as the Common, for the accommoda tion of all its scholars, including the villages of Swampscott and Nahant. This building was sold for £14, as the town had decided to have two school- houses, whicii were erected, one at the westerly sec tion of the town, and the other at " Fresh Marsh Lane," near the spot where Chestnut and Collins Streets now intersect. Between 1797 and 1814, the children in Swampscott went to the latter school across the fields, as no roads were then laid out. P. L. Seger, who moved to Swampscott frora Marble head, in the year 1800, attended this school and was its last survivor, his death occurring in 1874; his parents occupied the farmhouse still to be seen on the Mudge estate. Svvampscott's first school-house was purchased in Marblehead, in 1814, by Jaraes and "Farraer" Phillips, for fifty dollars, and in May of that year all 144 HISTORICAL SKETCHES the neighbors turned out, and with ten yokes of oxen, moved the building to a site at Whale's Beach, near the spot where the Hotel Beacon now stands, and nearly opposite the summer residence of Philo S. Shelton, of Boston. The services of the men were given to further the cause of education. Such was the provision then made to accommodate thirty scholars in the village of Swampscott — a little sec ond-hand building, about 25 x 30 feet, painted red. The school-house had one window on each side and •one door, partly of glass, with a shutter which swung ^ up overhead. This shutter furnished a fine trap, and the boys of the school were accustomed to load it, when raised, with all sorts of " trash," so that when the master closed the school and lowered the shutter, down came tiie contents upon his devoted head. Of course these youngsters were called to account, but as in similar mischievous pranks conimitted by school boys of the present day, all persisted in saying that they " knew nothing about it." " Hold on for a moment teacher! You'd better ignore the rule, Than punish that little urchin Who has just laughed out in school." Alien Rowe, uncle of the gentleman of that name now living at Beach Bluft', near the Marblehead line, and brother of that venerable citizen of Swampscott, William D. Rowe, who died in 1877, at the age of ninety-four years, was the first teacher in this school- house, others being Ira Ingalls, of Salem ; Henry OF SWAMPSCOTT. 145 Perley, Master Dean, and Miss Judith Phillips. Wal ter Phillips was the last teacher in this place, where many now living graduated with honor. The scholars took turns in making fires and keeping the house in order, and as matches was then unknown, and it being too much trouble for each pupil to take a tinder-box, a skillet was used to carry live coals from the nearest house to light the school-house fire. The following is a copy of a " Reward of Merit " issued by Master Perley to a well-known citizen of Swampscott : " This is to certify that E. B. Phillips For being bright and early. That you receive the praise and thanks Of your teacher — Henry Perley." Miss Judith Phillips, mentioned above, was a teacher only a short time. She received the attentions of one Mr. Fish, but seeras afterwards to have mar ried a Mr. Pond, which fact caused some person to indite the following lines, which were made public : " Miss Judith Phillips was a lucky Fish, As ever looked upon ; She just escaped the frying pan. And jumped into a Pond." The second school-house was located near the present intersection of Orient Street and Orient Court, at about the spot where George Horton's house now stands. The lot was deeded for the pur pose May 15, 1830, by Joseph and Ruth Blaney. Master Merrill was the first teacher in this house. 146- HISTORICAL SKETCHES The third school-house was located on Orient Street, now Huraphrey Street. The land was pur chased by the late E. B. Phillips, as School Com mittee, from Messrs. George and Walter Phillips, in the year 1838. This was the only school-house for several years in this part of the village. The land was deeded in 1838, but the original deed having been lost before it was recorded, another was gi-ven and recorded in 1839. '^ he latter deed bears the fol lowing endorsement : " It is the same lot of land that was sold by our late father, John Phillips, to E. B. Phillips as agent for said ward. The said deed from John Phillips to said E. B. Phillips is said to be lost, as it has never been recorded, and this deed is given on account of the same being lost ; and if the other is found, then it is to be of no effect, otherwise it is of free eftect and virtue." Prior to 1840, a small wooden school-house was erected on the eastern side of Cherry Street, Upper Swampscott (then, as all other portions of the town, included in the limits of Lynn), near its junction with Essex Street, and nearly opposite the Leonard Collins Estate. The early teachers there were Miss Harriet Folsom (later Mrs. Otis H. Green) and a Miss Beck with. Aniong the pupils of this primitive school were some who afterwards became jirominent in business, in politics, or in literature. About 1846, the school-house was renioved to Jackson Street, Lynn, and enlarged to double its original size. After serving its purpose here for years, it gave place to a OF SWAMPSCOTT. 147 larger structure, and was removed to Howard Street, where it was used for a ward-room. Its final dispo sition is unknown to the writer. The fourth school-house was located on a part of the site of the present grammar school-house on Redington Street, and when a new and larger build ing was demanded, the old house was moved to Bla ney's Beach and the grammar school-house built on the spot where it now stands, an exchange of adjoin ing lots havingbeen made, slightly altering the location of the school-house from the original site of the old building. The land was deeded to Lynn by Captain Nathaniel Blanchard, May 15, 1846. On the 24th of August, 1845, the first Sunday School in town was organized in this school-house. It has since been used as a ward-room, school-house, and is now the headquarters of the Swampscott Reform Club. The fifth was the grammar school-house specified above. The sixtii school was located on the " Farms," in 1855, and was first taught by Miss Laura Roberts, whose services were paid for by subscriptions collected in that neighborhood. For three years the school was kept in Captain E. S. Martin's house, situated at what is now the corner of Atlantic Avenue and Orient Street, Miss Harriet N. Bartlett being the teacher in 1856 and 1857. The new school-house in this district was built in 1858, on the farm of the late John P. Palmer, for which an appropriation of $1200 was made by the town. 148 HISTORICAL SKETCHES The seventh school-house was located on Pine Street, and was built by Ivory Emmons, in 1864. After a few years, the building was raised another story to accommodate two schools. A hall was fin ished in the upper story and named Palmer Hall, in honor ofj. P. Palraer, which is now the headqiiarters of General Jaraes L. Bates Post 118, G. A. R. The estimated expense was $2500, but the actual expense amounted to the sum of $4576.12. The eighth school-house was located on Essex Street, nearly opposite Swampscott Cemetery, and was built under a vote and appropriation of $3000 passed by the town, March 9, 1872. Lynn High School-house was dedicated in Jan uary, 1851. D. W. Fuller and others attended this school until Swampscott was set off as a town in 1S52. A High School was established in the Town Hall, in 1876. The gramraar school building on Reding ton Street having been enlarged, the High School was removed to new quarters, in that building, in 1876. In the year 1883, it was found necessary to have larger and better accommodations for the school child ren in the upper part of the town, therefore the old school-house opposite the cemetery was removed to a site on New Ocean Street, and remodelled into an engine-house, -and a new school-house was built by Ivory Emmons, on the spot where E. Burrill's barn was burnt years before, and nearly opposite Burrill Street, on Essex Street. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 149 The following are the teachers for 1885 : First Primary, Miss C. F. Mott ; Pine Street Primary, Miss A. E. Boynton; Beach Primary, Miss S. A. Porter; Beach, Miss H. M. Norton ; Essex Street, Miss Emma J. Machon ; Pine Street Intermediate, Miss H. J. Thing ; Farm, Miss Cora E. Gale ; Second Grammar, Miss E. J. Hadley and Miss L. E. Chase ; First Grammar, Miss A. M. Mott ; High School, Mr. and Mrs. E. P. Barker. CHAPTER XIV. WAR RECORD. Old Soldiers. — Revolutionary War. — War of 1812. — War for the. Union. — Naval Service. — Soldiers' Alonument. As has been shown, our chief citizen in the early days, John Huraphrey, held a high railitary rank, having been commissioned Sergeant Major General, and put in command of all the troops in the county. Doubtless his martial appearance inspired terror in the souls ofthe natives, and may have kept them from many a nightly raid upon the flocks of the settlers. That he was of soldierly blood is shown by the tradi tions concerning his gallant ancestor. Sir John Hum phrey, who flourished in the year 1390, as " A warrior who spared Nor land, nor gold, Nor child, nor wife, Nor lirab, nor life, In the brave days of old." Mrs. Mary Qiiestrom, widow of Oliver Qiiestrom, and daughter of John Melzard, a soldier in the Revo lutionary War, died at the advanced age of nearly SWAMPSCOTT. lol eighty-six years. Her father assisted in rowing Lafayette ashore at Marblehead, and was with Wash ington when he was " crossing the Delaware." The following toast was given by George Wash ington in a hospital of the army in 1776. It was re lated to my father by a Revolutionary soldier who was present and heard it : " Better health to the sick and wounded, honor to the brave, success to the American flag, and freedom to the slave." This toast was repeated by the same veteran soldier at the dinner given to General Lafayfitte at the laying of the corner stone of Bunker Hill Monument. Philip L. Seger served in the war of 1813, enlist ing in Captain Samuel Mudge's company as private, at Salem Neck ; he was soon promoted to sergeant, and was afterward made bearer of dispatches. Nathaniel Blanchard served in Captain Martin's company. Colonel Messenger's 3d Regiment, 3d Brigade, ist Division, of Boston, from September 16 to October 10, 1814. John Seger served in a detachment of Captain Ben jamin Mudge's company, of Lynn, which was a part of Colonel Brimblecom's regiment (4th), ist Brigade, 2d Division, from June 29 to August 15, 1814. The brig "Grand Turk," belonging in Salem, ]\Iass., was one of the finest of American privateers in the war of 181 3. She was fortunate as a cruiser, and was famous for her good cjualities as a sea-going vessel. She was three hundred and ten tons burden. 1.j2 historical SKETCHES and was manned by one hundred and fifty men, under the command of Captain Nathaniel Green. Her aniiament consisted of eighteen gims (nine-pounders). Captain Thomas Widger, of Marblehead, and later of Swampscott, was one of the gallant crew. On arriv ing at Salem, after a cruise of one hundred and three- days, there reniained but forty-four of her original crew, the greater portion of the rest being in charge of her prizes — seven vessels, of various kinds. There were also fifty prisoners, and merchandise to the value of twenty thousand dollars between her decks ; these were landed on Salem wharf. One of the captured cannons, a nine-pounder, was brought to Swamp scott and mounted on Winnepisekitt Hill, where for many years it was used for firing salutes ; it was afterwards moved to Blaney's Beach, where on the 4tli of July, 1857, Henry Scales and John Draper were seriously injured by a premature discharge, while firing salutes. Scales was badly wounded in the abdomen and had an arm broken ; Draper had an arm broken, an eye destroyed and was otherwise injured ; both were removed to the Massachusetts General Plospital, where death soon ended their sufferings. The cannon is seven feet long, and bears date of 179S, with figure ofa crown and other marks. It now rests at the foot of the flagstaft", beneath the " starry flag,'' at the Town Hall. In 18S5, the can non is to be renioved to Mudge Square. Swampscott's response to President Lincoln's call for troops to preserve the Union of States was prompt OF SWAMPSCOTT. 153 and hearty. The total number of raen sent into mili tary service was 170; nuraber of raen drafted who paid commutation fee of $300, 9; nuraber of men drafted who procured substitutes, 5 ; number of sea men that served in the naval service, 25 ; total, 209. One hundred and twenty-nine of the men who en listed in the army received a bounty. The whole araount of bounty money voted and paid by the town, together with that raised by subscription was $27,375. Other expenses, $5,814.41. Total ex penses, $33,249.41. There were 55 raen who en listed in the army and 25 in the navy who received no bounty. All of the town's quotas under the dif ferent calls of the President were promptly filled, and at the close of the war a surplus of twenty-two men over all calls was remaining. These facts and figures show conclusively that Swampscott has never been wanting in patriotism, or backward in fulfilling her whole duty toward the government and the country. That the ladies of the town were equally patriotic with the men, is shown in the fact that in the year 1863, they formed themselves into an association for the purpose of aiding the Swampscott soldiers, and by their devoted labors were able to contribute raany supplies for their relief and comfort. Charles Redington Mudge, son of the Hon. E. R. Mudge, of Swampscott, was killed at the battle of Gettysburg, July 3, 1863, while leading a charge on the rebels. He graduated from Harvard College in i860. He enlisted as ist Lieutenant in 2dMass. Vol- 154 HISTORICAL SKETCHES unteer Infantry, May 25, 1861 ; promoted to ranlc of Captain, July 8, 1861 ; Major, November 9, 1862 ; Lieutenant-Colonel, June 6, 1S63. He was aged twenty-three 3'ears, eight months, eleven days, when he was killed at the head of his regiment. His body was brought home and buried in his father's lot at Pine Grove Cemetery, Lynn ; afterwards the remains were removed to the garth of the Mudge Memorial Church (St. Stephen's), on South Common Street, Lynn. It may be said that Colonel Mudge was born for a military career. He was a young man of ex cellent traits, and won many friends, but he never seemed to have fairly attained his peculiar sphere in life, or the pursuit for which nature had fitted him, until he found himself in the uniforra of the soldier. Everett Boynton, son of Eli and Mary Boynton, was born in Pepperel, Mass., July 13, 1822 ; graduated at Darmouth College, 1S45 ; engaged in teaching until the Rebellion broke out. In Septeniber, 1S61, he enlisted as private in ist Mass. Cavalry, for three years, or for the war. In 1862, appointed warden of regimental hospital, and subsequently as clerk in general hospital, at Port Royal, S. C. In 1S63, transferred to signal corps by orders^from the war de partment. In 1864, served as clerk at headquarters, "Rendezvous of Distribution," near Alexandria, Va. Discharged at Boston, Septeraber, 1864, having served three years and ten days from the date of en listment. He has been a resident of Swampscott since the summer of 1850. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 155 Rev. Jonas Bowen Clark, M. A., Darmouth Col lege. Enlisted, September i8, 1861 ; commissioned by Governor Andrew; discharged August 19, 1863, by special order of Major-General Peck, Eighteenth Army Corps. He proceeded South as Chaplain of the 23d Mass. Regiment; encamped at Annapolis, Md., during the fall of 1861, and in December of the same year embarked from that place for Fortress Monroe ; from thence erabarked for Hatteras Inlet and Roanoke Island, N. C. After the battle of Roanoke Island, proceeded to Newbern, N.C, and then with the regiment went into permanent quarters for the spring and sumraer of 1862, the regiment doing provost duty. Appointed to Sanitary Com mission, October 27, 1862. Special service, April 10, 1862, Major-General Burnside, transport " Con- sack" to be fitted as a hospital ship. Chaplain Clark ¦ to take charge of the sick and wounded, and see that they were conveyed to their homes at the North, this order being issued with special concurrence of T. G. Snelling, Medical Director of i8th Army Corps. .Special order 82 of General Foster, to proceed to Massachusetts for sanitary supplies, as Sanitary Com mission for North Carolina Department. Special order U. S. A. Q. M. to Chaplain Clark, to ship sani tary stores from Massachusetts to North Carolina De partraent, Noveraber, 1862. By special order, Jan uary 21, 1863, he was detailed as bearer of dispatches flora General Foster to the North. Special order from Secretary of War, February 27, 1S63, with re- 156 HISTORICAL SKETCHES ference to the Sanitary Commission Departraent. Special order by Brigadier-General Palmer, Newbern, N. C, March 25, 1863, to proceed as Post Chaplain to convalescent camp, Trent River, N,C., and re port to headquarters its condition. Detail for special service as officer in charge of flag of truce, in the spring of 1S63. Resigned August 19, 1863, by reason of illness from effects of climate, by advice and order of Acting Surgeon-General Derby, Department of North Carolina. Since the close ofthe war Chaplain Clark has been connected with various army associations, as chaplain of array posts, east and west, and chairman ofan im portant commission ; on the roll of honor of Dart mouth College, and, now Chaplain and Librarian of the City Institutions of South Boston. Colonel Josepii A. Ingalls, of Swampscott, en listed as private in Co. I, Sth Regt. M. V., August 20, 1862. Promoted to Quartermaster-Sergeant, No veraber 7, 1862, and again to ist Lieutenant and R. Q. M., 8th Regt. M. V [Colonel Ingalls' raili tary record was published at length in the history of the Ingalls family.] Edward Marsh, Jr., enlisted May 7, 1S61. He participated in twenty battles, and was wounded at Cedar Mountain, August 9, 1S62, in the breast. He was conveyed to the hospital at Alexandria, and then to Washington, and was honorably discharged at the expiration of his term of enlistment. Sylvester Blaney enlisted in August, 1S61, for three OP SWAMPSCOTT. 157 years, in Co. F, 22d Mass. Infantry, as a private ; no bounty. Promoted to corporal in December, 1862 ; was with his regiment in every battle in which it participated to July 3, 1863, receiving a gunshot wound at Gettysburg. Was discharged in August, 1864, at the expiration of his term of enlistment. Richard Horton enlisted July 5, 1861, for three years, in Co. G, 14th Infantry, afterwards ist Mass. Heavy Artillery, and was placed in charge of the magazine ; he was discharged at the expiration of his term of enlistment. Peter A. Martin, Jr., enlisted Januaiy 16, 1862, for three years, in Co. G, 14th Mass. Infantry. Pro moted to Corporal in 1864 ; transferred to " Shandon " in the navy. May 16, 1864, and discharged April 27, 1865. George W. Wilkins enlisted July 5, 1861, in Co. G, ISt Heavy Artillery, discharged January i, 1S64, to re-enlist. In May, 1864, transferred to the navy, from which he was discharged August 8, 1865, at the expiration of his enlisted term. Edwin A. Stimpson enlisted under the first call, April, 1861, for three years, in Co. C, 14th Infantry ; transferred to ist Heavy Artillery, December 21, 1863, and discharged July 31, 1865. He participated in the following battles: Spottsylvania, Va., North Anna, Tolopotomy Creek, Cold Harbor, siege of Petersburg, Va., June, 1864; Strawberry Plains, Deep Bottom, Polar Spring Church, Boynton Plank Road, Weldon Railroad, Hatcher's Run, capture of Petersburg, in 158 HISTORICAL SKETCHES 1865 ; Sailor's Creek, capture of rebel wagon train in April, 1865 ; capture of Farmville, and when General Lee surrendered was at Clover Hill, Va. Joseph A. Horton enlisted for three years, in 1862, in Co. G, i4tli Infantry; transferred to ist Mass. Heavy Artillery. He was in the second Bull Run. Discharged July 8, 1865; time expired. Samuel C. Heald enlisted July 20, 1862, for three years, in ist Infantry, receiving $250 bounty ; he was killed in the service. W. W. Cox enlisted September 28, i86i, in ist Milss. Cavalry, Co. H; discharged July 7, 1862. Caleb O. Stone enlisted for nine months' service, in Co. E, 45th Regt. Mass. Infantry, September 26, 1862. He died at Foster General Hospital, Newbern, N. C, Deceraber 11, 1862, after a sickness of about two weeks. His remains were buried in Swampscott Cemetery. William Widger enlisted September 16, 1861, for three years' service, in ist Mass. Cavalry, Co. PI. He was taken sick at the battle of Fredericksburg, and died December 20, 1862. His body was buried in our cemetery. George Dudley Blaney enlisted September 26, 1862, for nine. months' service, in Co. E, 45th Regt., Mass. Infantry. He died at Camp Spinola, Newbern, N. C, June 23, 1863, of raalarial fever, and his reraains now rest in Swampscott Cemetery. Andrew M. Chute enlisted in Co. B, 23d Regt., for three years' service, February 18, 1864. He was OF SWAMPSCOTT. 159 taken prisoner by the " Rebs." and died in Anderson ville slaughter-pen, September i, 1864. Zachariah Small, Jr., enlisted August, 1861, in Co. E, ISt Mass. Heavy Artillery. Was captured, and confined in Andersonville prison-pen, where he died September 20, 1864. Thomas Donnelly enlisted September 26, 1862, for nine months, in Co. E, 45tli Regt., Mass. Infantry. He was killed at the battle of Whitehall, N. C, De cember 16, 1862. Ezra F. Delano entered the service May 13, 1864, for one year, in Co. E, 19th Regt. He was taken prisoner before Petersburg, Va., June,' 1864, and died in Andersonville, November 3, 1864. Michael Haley entered service February 16, 1864, in Co. D, 19th Regt. He was discharged on account of disability, December 16, 1864, and died on his way home. Joseph W. Boynton, Adjutant and staff" officer in an Ohio regiment, died of wounds received at the battle of Murfreesboro', Tenn. His body now rests in Swampscott Cemetery. , E. T. Heath enlisted for three years, in Co. I, 29th Mass. Regt., and was transferred to the Veteran Reserve Corps in 1863. He participated in several important battles. Thomas L. Glass enlisted for three years in Co. I, 29th Infantry. He participated in fourteen battles, and was discharged by reason of disability, February 26, 1863. 160 HISTORICAL SKETCHES Augustus A. Blaney, son of Benjamin and Sally Blaney, enlisted April 19, 1861, for three years, in Co. I, 29th Mass. Regt. Discharged on surgeon's certificate of disability, April 2, 1863, having com pleted his enlisted terra within seventeen days. E. A. Blanchard enlisted in September 26th, 1862, nine months, Co. E, 45th Infantry. Discharged, July 7, 1863 ; tirae expired. Charles E. Harris enlisted in May, 1861, for three years, in Co. I, 29th Regt. George Horton enlisted for three years, in Co. I, 29th Infantry. He was wounded in the battle of Blue Springs, October 10, 1863 ; he also took part in battles of Antietara, Jaraes' Cross Roads, siege of Knoxville, and the Wilderness. Discharged in May, 1864. E. G. Blaney, enlisted 1862, nine months, Co. E, 45th Infantry. Discharged July 5, 1863; time ex pired. Joseph A. Millett enlisted at the first call, April 19, 1 861, for three years, in Co. I, 29th Infantry; was wounded in the hand at the battle of Spottsylvania ; discharged May 24, 1864. John R. Merritt was born in Marblehead ; raoved to the city of Philadelphia, where his parents went, in 1852, and remained there until 1859, when he came to Swampscott at the breaking out of the Rebellion ; was a member of the Winthrop Cadets, Captain Daniel Fuller; enlisted October 17, 1861, in the 2d Regt., Mass. Vol. Infantry ; served until October 20, OF SWAMPSCOTT. 161 1864, participating with his regiment in all the prin cipal battles of the Army of the Potoraac, and sub sequently in the Army of the Cumberland, under General Sherman, in his " march to the sea." Sergeant Charles H. Smith, then a mere stripling, hardly arrived at the military age of eighteen, en listed in Co. K, 22d Regt., M. V. M., September lo, 1861, for three years, and was discharged July 8, 1862, for disability. September 26, 1862, he re-en listed for nine months in Co. E, 45th Mass. Regt., Captain Thomas B. Wales, Jr., being honorably dis charged at the expiration of his term of service, July 7, 1863. December 29, 1863, he was again mustered into the service as Sergeant of Co. D, 56th Mass. Regt., serving with that body till the next Septem ber, when he was taken prisoner at Hatch's Run, Va., and sent to Salisbury, N.C, where he died Decem ber 31, 1864. Alphonso Nesbitt enlisted for three years in Co. F, 2d Infantry. In 1863, he was transferred to the regu lar Army, and afterwards to a gunboat in the Navy. John Merritt enlisted under the call of 1861, in the 17th Infantry, Co. A. He was injured while helping to save the wagon train when the army was retreating during the " Seven Days' Fight." Discharged August 7, 1862, at Harrison's Landing, Va., by reason of physical disability. R. A. Douglass enlisted April 21, 1861, for three years, in Co. K, 12th Infantry, transferred to V. R. C, December 2, 1863, and was discharged June 27, 1864. 162 HISTORICAL SKETCHES Moses N. Woodbury enlisted for three years, in Co. D, 1 2th Mass. Vol. Infantry, no bounty, under the call for 75,000 men, in 1861. He was in thirty- two engagements, among them. Cedar Mountain, Thoroughfare Gap, Second Bull Run, Chantilly, South Mountain, Antietam, Fredericksburg, Gettys burg and Rappahannock Station, was in the advance towards Richmond, under General Grant, May 3, to June 36, 1864, and was raustered out July 8, 1864, at expiration of term of service. Colonel James L. Bates, wrote of Woodbury, August 10, 1864, as fol lows : "Moses N. Woodbury, a private of Co. D, 1 2th Regt. Mass. Vols., is one who has often been an object of my admiration upon the battle-field ; he is brave as the bravest, and in action enthusiastic, enter ing into the spirit of the fight as though it were his greatest delight. At the battle of Fredericksburg he was complimented on the field by me for his splendid conduct. It is with pleasure that I bear this testi mony to the character of the highest type of the Union soldier." William D. Brackett, Jr., enlisted in Co. E, 45th Infantry, for nine months, September 26, 1862, as private, receiving $200 bounty. He was promoted to Corporal, and discharged July 7, 1863, by expiration of term of enlistment. John W. Brooks enlisted for nine months in Co. E, 45th Infantry, in 1863, as private, receiving $300 bounty ; promoted to rank of Corporal ; discharged jn 1863. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 163 George C. Richards enlisted in 1862 for nine months in Co. E, 43d Regt. Infantry. Wounded April 39, 1863, in battle of Gum Swamp, N. C. ; discharged in 1863, at expiration of term of enlistment. William W. Bowman enlisted Septeniber 26, 1862, in Co. E, 45th Infantry, for nine months, receiving $200 bounty ; promoted to Corporal, and discharged July 7, 1863, at expiration of term of service. Richard B. Caswell, Jr., enlisted for nine months in Co. E, 45th Infantry, September 26, 1862 ; dis charged July 7, 1863, time expired. William Henry Collins enlisted September 26, 1862, for nine months, receiving $200 bounty, in Co. E, 45th Infantry ; discharged July, 1863, time expired. Sylvester F. Douglass enlisted for nine months in Co. E, 45th Infantry ; discharged July 7, 1863. Joseph W. Glass enlisted for nine months in Co. E, 45th Infantry. Re-enlisted for three years in Co. F, 29th Infantry. Was in battles of Cold Harbor, Whitehall, Goldsborough, and Gum Swamp. Was wounded in the eye at battle of Petersburg, and also in right hand. He was taken to the hospital at An napolis, thence to York hospital, and was mustered out in June, 1S65. Horace W. Wardwell enlisted July 5, 1861, in 14th Infantry, Co. H; transferred to ist Pleavy Artillery in 1863; promoted to Sergeant May i, 1S63 ; trans ferred to Navy, May 30, 1864 ; accidentally wounded by pistol ball, in joint of left ankle ; discharged Au gust 7, 1865. 164 HISTORICAL SKETCHES David C. Bunting enlisted for three years in Co. H, 23d Infantry : discharged at Newbern, N.C, in 1862, for disability, and re-enlisted in September, 1862, in Co. E, 45th Infantry. He was wounded at Roanoke Island, and received an honorable discharge. Patrick Milan enlisted for three years in Co. I, 33d Infantry, and in 1863 re-enlisted for three years. State records say he was killed in action. Frederick C Pierce enlisted in Co. C, I4tli Infan try, and was transferred to ist Mass. Heavy Artillery ; discharged after about six months' service for disabil ity, and, on recovering, re-enlisted in the ist Infantrv in 1862, and discharged June 29, 1865. James Uraber enlisted at Marblehead, in ist Mass. Heavy Artillery, for three years. He was wounded before Petersburg. He was discharged after serving nineteen months and one day, by special order. John C Stirapson enlisted for nine months, Sep tember, 1862, in Co. E, 45th Infantry, receiving $200 bount)'. Discharged June, 1863, on account of dis ability. Merritt E. Porter enlisted in September, 1862, for nine months in Co. E, 45th Infantry ; received $300 bounty. In battle of Kingston, N.C, disabled four raonths, and was ill in hospital with typhoid fever. Discharged July 7, 1863. George F. Colcord enlisted for three years in 1S63, in 1st Heavy Artillery, Co. L. Received no bounty from the town, but was presented with $125 as a pri vate gift. He was wounded, before Petersburg, Va., OF SWAMPSCOTT. 105 in the right temple, causing loss of right eye. Dis charged May i6, 1865. Frederick O. Ellis enlisted September 15, 1862, for nine months, in Co. E, 45th Infantry, and was dis charged July 7, 1863. Below are given the names of those who served in the defense of our countiy in the Navy ; also a few statistics gathered from a report of 1866 : Joseph Wilson entered the Navy as" Paymaster, July 24, 1813, and served in the brig "Rattlesnake," 1813 ; ship "Argus,"' 1814; brig " Savannah," 1815 ; frigate " Macedonian," 1817, for four years ; schooner "Shark," 1824; frigate "Guerriere," 1828 for four years; "North Carolina," 1836, four years ^ ship "Preble," 1840; ship "Lexington," 1846, for four years; steamship " Powhattan," 1861. He was born at Marblehead, October 30, 1788, and died at his resi dence on Black Will's Clift', Swampscott, in June, 1875. He was the oldest Payraaster in the service, and was a raost correct and raethodical raan. It is said that his accounts with the government never va ried a dollar, and he enjoyed, as he deserved, the fullest confidence of the authorities in the Navy De partment. During the closing years of his life, he was placed on the retired list, ranking as Commodore. His remains now rest at Marblehead. Samuel R. Bartlett, " St. Lawrence," " Quaker City;" C O. Blaney, "Huron;" Edward H. Cas well, "Western World," "Anacostia," "Ella," "Ot- they Vassar;" John C Caswell, "Restless," " Santi- 166 HISTORICAL SKETCHES ago de Cuba ;" Nicholas Cross, "Siren ;" Thomas H. Durgan, "Housatonic" and "Monitor;" Edward I. Frost, "Midnight;" William Gross, "St. Law rence;" Michael Haley, Jr., "Tuscarora;" Christo pher C Hewes, "Sabine" and "Florida;" Rodney Lane, "Tahoma;" Simon Lowell, "Kensington;" Ebenezer S. Martin, " Ethen Aflen ;" Alphonso Nisbett, " Gunboat ;" Willis Newcomb, "King Fish er ;" Thomas Pray, Jr., "Santiago de Cuba" and " Genisbok ;" Nelson Phillips, "Minnesota;" Elisha D. Pedrick, "Lancaster;" Jaraes O. Stone, "Kear sarge;" James O. Stone, "Hunchback," "Itasca," and "Savannah," (re-enlisted). The surrender of the stained and tattered banners, borne by the soldiers of Massachusetts, to the keeping ofthe State, was one of the most imposing, and at the same tirae, affecting occasions incident to the war. This took place Deceraber 22, 1865. There are two hundred and sixty-nine flags in all, one hundred and ninety-four having been carried bv the infantry regi ments and seventy-five b)' cavalry and artillery. " And many saw the waving flags, The fluttering fiags, the tattered flags. Red, white and blue, shot through and through. Baptized with battle's deadly dew." " And the Star Spangled Banner, oh, long may it wave O'er the land ofthe free, and the home ofthe brave." In New York City, on the occasion of rejoicings over a victory of the Union forces, manj' banners and mottoes were displayed along the line of procession, OF SWAMPSCOTT. 167 among them was one large flag, with the following inscription : " Colors warranted not to run." In April, 1865, when it became known that the war was at an end, there was great rejoicing in the town. A procession was formed, with Captain Nathaniel Blanchard at the head, and they raarched through the streets, responding to the cheers which greeted them all along the route. Many of the private dwellings were brightly illurainated, bonfires were lighted in the streets, bells were rung, and a salute fired. Swamp scott had nobly contributed her share in putting down the Rebellion, and could well rejoice in the downfall of Richmond. The formation of a Grand Army Post in the Town of Swampscott was first conceived by Comrade John R. Merritt, a rnember of Gen. Lander Post No. 5, of Lynn. Mr. Merritt, living in Swampscott, knew there were many men in town who had served the United States in crushing the Rebellion in the dark days of 1861-65. Acting with military promptness, he procui'ed an application for a charter in December, 1869, and circulating it araong the "Boys in Blue" he was enabled in three days to forward to the head quarters in Boston, a list of twenty-one names. Mer ritt E. Porter, also a citizen of Swampscott, and mem ber of Gen. Lander Post, co-operated heartily with Mr. M. in the work, and, on the 24th of January, 1S70, a charter was issued, bearing twenty-one names, as follows: Edwin A. Stimpson, ist Mass. Heavy Artillery; A. J. Noble, ist Mass. Heavy Artillery; 168 HISTORICAL SKE"TCHES John R. Merritt, 2d Mass. Infantry; Merritt E. Por ter, 45th Mass. Infantry; Edward Marsh, Jr., 2d Mass. Infantry; B. H. Phillips, loth Mass. Light Battery; G. W. Wilkins, ist Mass. Heavy Artillery; R. L. Rich, 45th Mass. Vol. Infantry; B. F. Smith, 4tli Mass. Light Artillery ; E. G. Blaney, 45th Mass. Infantry; E. T. Heath, 29th Mass. Infantry; Sylves ter Blaney, 33d Mass. Infantry ; M. N. Woodbury, i3th Mass. Infantry; S. F. Douglass, 45th Mass. In fantry; W. H. Fletcher, ist Mass. Light Battery; Daniel G. Frazier, 8th Mass. Infantry ; J. A. Horton, 1st Mass. Heavy Artillery ; C O. B. Blaney, seaman, U. S.Navy; E. PI. Caswell, searaan, U. S. Navy; H. W. Wilson, searaan, U. S. Navy; E. S. Martin, Jr., searaan, U. S. Navy. The forraation of the Post took place in the Town Hall on Monday evening, February 3, 1870, in the lower room, the officers and men being mustered in by Frederick Grant, of Saleni, Inspector for the dis trict. The following were elected to serve as officers of the Post for the year: Coraraander, John R. Mer ritt; S. V. Cora., B. F. Smith ; J. v' Com., S. F Douglass ; Adjutant, Sylvester Blaney ; Quartermas ter, Edwin A. Stimpson; Chaplain, A. J. Noble Surgeon, M. N. Woodbury ; Officer of the Day, W N. Fletcher; Officer of the Guard, M. E. Porter [Q. M. S. and Sergeant Major not appointed.] The nuniber of the Post was 118. The name of General James L. Bates, of i3th Mass. Regt., was oftered by Comrade Moses N, Woodbury, ofthe same regiment, OF SWAMPSCOTT. 169 as a name for the Post, and the Post was thereafter known as "Gen. James L. Bates Post, No. iiS, Swampscott." The muster-roll of the Post shows the membership to have been as high as sixty, but death and change of residence has reduced the ranks until there remain but about thirty men. Since the organi zation of the Post more than seven hundred dollars has been distributed for charitable purposes. The head quarters of the organization has been in Palraer Hall, for the past twelve years, and during the past few years no rent has been collected by the town for its use. The Post as an organization has maintained its association, and stands to-day as the only society in town of a secular nature, holding weekly meetings, and running- for over thirteen years. The present commander, Peleg Gardner, is very popular among his comrades. In 1883, a Soldier's Monuraent was erected in Monuraent Square, formerly Mudge's Square, directly in front of the Mudge estate, the land being given to the town for that purpose by the Mudge heirs. The monument is of granite^ with bronze trim mings and bronze tablets. Its height is thirty feet from the ground, with a base six feet ten inches square. The four dies or tablets are three feet six inches square (bronze). The front tablet, facing the Mudge estate, contains the inscriptions ; on the oppo site side is the date of erection ; on the two other sides are the names of the fourteen soldiers to whose iTiemory the monuraent is erected, 24 170 HISTORICAL SKETCHES. On the first section ofthe shaft are four bronze bas- reliefs — on the front the U. S. coat of arms ; on the opposite side a soldier and sailor ; on the right a rep resentation of cavahy, and on the left a representa tion of artillery. Above this is a bronze wreath. The shaft is square, with a plain, pointed top. The monument, which cost $2943.10, was (Jedicated in 1883. When the last soldier and sailor who served in the Rebellion shall have passed away, who will strew the beautiful ftoral tributes over his grave.'' In closing these notes of Swampscott in the war, I will quote from a shield which hangs in the mansion once owned by Robert E. Lee, at Arlington Heights, Va., the grounds of this estate being the resting-place of fifteen thousand soldiers who fell in the defence of their country : '* Here sleep the brave, who sink to rest. By all their country's wishes blest." CHAPTER XV. BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. William D. Rowe lived in Swampscott when first married. In 1820, he moved to Lynn and < took charge of the poor farm at the salary of two hundred and fifty dollars a year. He attended service at the " First Church." Afterwards moved to Swampscott, but continued to attend the same church until his death. In 1842, it was the custom to have the owner's .name painted on the pew. There was a painter in Lynn who was indebted to hira fifty dollars ; he could not collect his bill, and so he hired him lo paint his name on the pew, by way of settlement ; he told the writer that when he saw the name on the pew his first reflection was that it had cost him fiftj' dollars. About the year 1826, Mrs. Sarah Ellis opened a sraall variety store near where the Reform Club, now have their headquarters ; she afterward moved to the other side of the street. The school-children passed by her door on their way to and from school, and manj- would leave their pennies in exchange for her wares. In the woods she gathered sassafras, gold- 172 HISTORICAL SKETCHES thread and checkerberry ; by the roadside catnip and yellow dock ; in her garden she raised sage, rue and wormwood, while the meadows yielded her flagroot and rosemary. With the aid of these roots and herbs she would care for the bruised and wounded, and sell salve and ointments. Every one knew her as an honest, simple-hearted darae, whose tears were ready to flow at a tale of suffering, and whose hands were always ready to help the needy. In the year 1S75, Philip L. Seger died at the advanced age of eighty-three. He was born in Mar blehead, Januaiy i, 1792, and carae to Swampscott in 1800, and lived at the old farra-house on the Mudge estate. The old elra near was set out in 17405 and was one of the landraarks of " the olden, tirae." Mr. S. attended school at the old school-house, located in what was called Fresh Marsh Lane, Lynn. In early manhood he learned the shoemaker's trade, afterwards engaged in fishing. By request of Michael Collins, of Eastham, he went to that town and taught hira to raake the first shoes raanufactured in that place. Mr. Collins, who is quite an old man, visited his instructor during the last year of his life. In the war of 1812, John Proctor was drafted to perforra military duty, but by mutual consent Mr. Seger went as substitute, and served in a corapany which went from Lynn, un der command of Captain Samuel Mudge. They were quartered at Salem Neck. Mr. Seger was promoted to a Sergeant, and afterward was bearer of dispatches. He lived for many years with the faraily of Richard OF SWAMPSCOTT. 173 L. Hanford. At his decease his remains were de posited in Eastern Burial Ground, Lynn. Ebenezer Weeks first came to Swampscott in the year 1805, and lived on what is now the "Rowe" farm. He afterwards kept a hotel near Blaney's Beach. His nephew, Ebenezer Weeks, Jr., who was born in 1802, came to Swarapscott with a pack on his back in theyear 1818. Pie raarried his cousin, Mary E. Weeks, in 1831. Soon after his arrival, Mr. Weeks learned the trade of shoemaking, and worked in Mark Phillips' shoe shop, on Burrill Street. He boarded with Mr. Mears, at the old Mudge farm house, paying $1.50 per week. Captain L. D. Storj' was at that time working for Mr. Mears, for his food and lodging, sleeping on a straw bed up stairs. There was no spare bed for Mr. W^eeks, and on the afternoon of his arrival they went to the woods in the rear of the house, cut down some cedar trees and brought them to the house ; there they cut off' the limbs but not the bark, bored sorae holes for a cart rope to go through to fasten them together, braced the legs with nails and boards, and placed the affair in a little room on the first floor. The time consumed in making the whole was less than two hours. After Mr. Weeks' marriage he engaged in the lobster busi ness at East Boston. He was a very successful busi ness man and much respected. He died leaving a large property. Thomas Dolliver boarded for many years with Ebenezer Weeks ; he had lost the use of his lower 174 ; HISTORICAL SKETCHES limbs, and could only move about by means of a chair in whicii he sat. He was a shoemaker by trade, and was much respected by all who knew him. At his death he gave to Mary E. Weeks, by will, a lot of land on Blaney Street, where the vestry of the First Congregational Church now stands. Captain Nathaniel Blanchard was born in Thetford, Vt., moved to Lynn while a boy, and learned the shoemaker's trade, working at it for four or five years, after which he followed fishing, acting as master most of the time. He married Alice P. Blaney, April 2, 1820. Served in the war of 181 2-14. When the old militia system was in vogue he commanded a com pany in the eastern district of Lynn. He served on the board of Selectmen before Swampscott was set oft' as a town. Ocean Street, Lynn, was laid out at this time. When the California fever broke out he engaged with others in fitting out a vessel to go thither. When he built his brick house, the first in town, he went out fishing one morning in his dory, caught a load of fish, took them to Boston, sold them, and came home with the dory laden with stone caps, which were placed over the windows in his new house. He died in June, 1871 ; his widow still lives in the brick house on Humphrey Street, and is a very sraart old lady, who has many a tale to relate of the days gone by. On election days it was custoraary for the Swamp scott fishermen to go to Lynn to cast their ballots. A good description of their proceedings being given in OF SWAMPSCOTT. 175 "Johnson's Sketches of Lynn," I quote from it briefly. There being an uncertainty as to who was elected Moderator, by a vote by voice, they would be obliged to pass through an opening in a railing and be counted. "At this stage of the meeting, perhaps the ' un- terrified ' from Swampscott had not arrived ; but before the ' yeas ' had all passed through, the martial drum and piercing fife announced the coming of the sturdy fishermen hosts that never marched except to victory. Theii a rush of boys — some of thera pretty well grown up — would pour out at the door, and down over the stairs to meet the ' old guard.' Soon the heavy tread of fishing boots would be heard — there were no rubber boots then, and probably not a pair of French boots were seen in the whole lot — and the invincible army whose presence was a pre sage of victory marched into the hall with ^Captain Natty' (Nathaniel Blanchard) at his head. Ney, as he led the Iraperial Guard raight have had more horses shot under him and his face more blackened with powder, but he neVfer marched with a prouder step, when his great captain gave the destinies of Europe into his hands on the field of Waterloo, than ' Captain Natty ' as he led the one hundred, more or less, to the bloodless victories that never ended in a Waterloo or a Peterloo ; for this veteran never blanched before any. danger on the land or on the sea — especially on the sea. Then the cry would go up, not exactly the cry of Winkelried's ' Make way for 176 HISTORICAL SKETCHES Liberty!' but one animated with the same spirit — ' Make way for Swampscott !' Then they would march in solid phalanx, solid as practicable, through the passage in front ofthe ' calf pen,' and the destinies of the day were sealed.'' William Marshall, of Swampscott, born Maj- 26, 17S9, died March 9, 1870. Betsy, his wife, was born December 15, 1792, and died October 17, 1877- They were married in 1828, and lived in the Mar shall House, on the Point. During the early part of his life he manufactured shoes, and would frequently start on foot, before the sun was up, with his bag of shoes over his shoulder, for the Boston market. In warm weather he was often called upon to furnish fish dinners for parties, who came from other places to enjoy the cooling breezes at the seashore. Daniel Webster was at one time his guest, and hundreds en joyed the repasts prepared under his direction, during the forty years of his stay at the Point. About the J'ear 1835, some of his sumraer guests presented him the pleasure yacht " Tom." Hewas a skillful gun ner, and often "feathered his own nest" frora the down from the breasts of birds that fell before his skill. He spent the last few years on his farra at North Bend, Lynn. Deacon Jaraes Wheeler, the veteran raail carrier, was married January 29, 1833, to Adeline Briggs. They lived in the only house on Blaney Street at that time. In 1858, Mr. Wheeler had a large tent erected near the coiner of Humphrey and Phillips Streets, OF SWAMPSCOTT. 177 and there gave a first-class concert, the first of the kind in town. Land on Blaney Street was valued at thirty dollars per acre in 1845, while now (1884) it would cost thousands. Mr. and Mrs. Wheeler cele brated the fiftieth anniversary of their marriage on January 29, 1883, at which time their friends gathered by hundreds to wish them joy and prosperity, as they journeyed onward toward the seventy-fifth. Thomas Stone resided at Blaney's Beach, not far frora where the club-room now stands, but on the opposite side of the street. He was a very strict man in all his dealings, and died at the advanced age of seventy-two years, leaving many descendants and friends to mourn his loss. Dr. J. B. Holder, son of Aaron L. Holder, of Lynn, completed his education aS' physician and sur geon at the " Harvard Medical School." He first practiced medicine in Swampscott, in 1846, and was the first doctor in the village. He built a pretty cot tage, with diamond-shaped windows, adjoining what is now the summer residence of Charles E. Morrison, on Winnepurkitt Hill. This hill was named for Winnepurkitt, who, at the time Francis Ingalls built his log house, was only thirteen years old. He was the brother of Montowampate, and succeeded him as Sachem of this range. This hill was his favorite place of residence, having one of the finest lookouts on the entire shore. He died in 1684 and his wife in the following year. Dr. Holder practiced for several years very successfully in the village, but his practice 25 178 HISTORICAL SKETCHES having largely increased in the surrounding country, he found it necessary to remove to the corner of Na hant and Sagamore Streets, wliere he built a cottage, which may still be seen there. In 1859, ^^ ^^^ ^"S" gestion of Prof. Agassiz, he was appointed post- surgeon at Port Jefferson, on the Florida coast, where he remained some years. One important ob ject gained in the appointment was the study of the marine zoology of those semi-tropical waters, for the benefit of science, under the auspices of the Smith sonian Institute and the Agassiz Museum. On the breaking out of the Rebellion, Dr. Holder was ap pointed surgeon at the military prison at the Dry Tortugas, where he continued in charge until after the close ofthe war. In 1866, he was ordered to Fortress Monroe as medical officer of that post, then reorgan ized as the artillery school. After serving three and one-half years at that noted place he accepted an in vitation to join in building up the Museum of Natural History in Central Park, New York. The success of the institution being secured he was appointed per manent Curator of Zoology, which position he still holds to the satisfaction of all. In the fall of 1859, Dr. William B. Chase, then a young man of twenty-six, located in Swampscott. He had previously been practicing medicine some three years in the State of Vermont, and was a graduate of the Jefferson Medical College of Phila delphia. At that time Swampscott was a town of about one thousand two hundred inhabitants, The OF SWAMPSCOTT. 179 doctor then held full sway as far as doctors in town were concerned, as he was the only one located in it, and indeed he soon discovered that he had chosen wisely, for the same day of his arrival he was called upon to pay a visit to his first patient. Success fol lowed, and the doctor has met with his full tide of business, and has grown gray in the service up to 1884. About the year 1869, Dr. Chase entered into partnership in the drug business with J. P. Porter, in what was known as the old " Widger Block." After a short tirae he bought out the business, and continued there until the new " Towns Block" was built, into which he removed and where he still remains. A physician's life is by no means an easy one, and perhaps an incident or two in the doctor's experience may be, if not instructive, at least amusing to the readers of this article. Some years ago when Thos. Widger, Jr., was keeper of the lighthouse on Egg Rock, one storiny day in mid-winter, the schooner "Champion" as she rounded the island, was hailed from the Rock by the signal of distress, and " heav ing to," was informed that a doctor must be sent out immediately. The order was complied with, and in an incredibly short space of time a dory was pushed off from the Swampscott shore with Dr. Chase on board. The sea was running high and one boat had already been overturned in the surf, in the efforts made to put off, while the old fisherman who alone was in it, and who was no less a personage than the old man Widger himself, drenched through, had been 180 HISTORICAL SKETCHES obliged to put back to shore to get a dry change of clothing. When the schooner, after sorae difficulty, for the wind was blowing a gale, carae to, oft' the rock, the waves weie running dangerously high, the white surf breaking with a terrific roar on the rock- bound island, threatening every instant to engulf the two small boats which put out frora the schooner, the one as protection to the other should anj- accident occur. The long stairs leading to the top of the rock were covered with ice, and the fishermen though inured to the dangers of the deep, found some dif ficulty in securing a foothold, but waiting for a favor able moment in which to take advantage of the tide, and calling to the doctor to lie down in the bottom of the boat, they sprang upon the slippery steps and with a mighty lurch the boat, assisted by the light- keeper who stood waiting to receive them, was drawn far up out of the tremendous sea, which with every advancing tide, was breaking around thera. The feelings which the doctor experienced at that moment he says can never be described ; he had been in many serious situations before, but never when he felt so perfectly helpless as that moment in which, suspended at an angle of forty-five degrees, with his heels elevated in air and water dashing over his prostrate form, the thunder of the elements around him, he found himself performing a feat which a few hours previous he would have deemed simply im possible. The descent was attended with fully as much danger as had been the ascent, but this time the OP SWAMPSCOTT. 181 doctor was right side up with care, and braced himself for the sudden lurch into this frightful sea, which bore them at last in safety to the schooner awaiting them. In telling us some of the interesting reminiscences of his professional experience, the doctor gave us one too good to be lost. While practicing in Vermont he was called to attend the wife of a farmer who had previously buried four wives. This one shared the fate of the others, and the morning after her death, as the doctor was passing the house the old man came hurrying out to the gate with his handkerchief to his eyes in great distress. " Oh doctor, doctor !" said he, " she is gone ; what shall I do.?" fairly sobbing aloud in his grief; then suddenly brightening — " Do you know, doctor, where I could get another.?" About three weeks afterward, as the doctor was driving that way, he met the old man with a one-horse wagon load of household goods, on the top of which perched a ^(voman ; he had secured number six, and was bringing her home. Dr. Chase belongs to the Masonic fraterriity, having taken thirty-three degrees in all, including the ancient Scottish Rite. Dr. Chase married Miss Marietta C Bement, of Ashfield, in 1859 ; they have two accomplished daugh ters — Miss Lettie, Professor of Music, and Miss Louie, Professor of Elocution. John Chapman a well-known house carpenter ; has built many first-class houses during the past forty years. 182 HISTORICAL SKETCHES Joseph Stanley will long be remembered for his many good deeds for more than forty-two years. He has held many town offices. William H. Holden died at the age of fifty-six years and eight months, in Swarapscott, in the year 1877. He Was born in Middlesex, Washington County, Vt. In his early days he assisted his father on the farm, and as Town Clerk, Town Treasurer and Registrar of Deeds, it being the custom in Vermont to register all deeds in the Town Clerk's office. Mr. Holden suc ceeded his father, Horace Holden, in the various positions, and filled thera acceptably until his re moval to Massachusetts. The offices of Town Clerk, Treasurer and Registrar has been held in the Holden family upwards of fifty years, a brother of the de ceased now filling them. Mr. Holden was associated with his son, George H. Holden — who was Treasurer of the town of Swampscott, in 1883 — in the grocery business for the last five years preceding his death. He left a wife and one son, now of the firm of Geo. H. Holden & Co., grocers. John P. Palraer died at his residence in Swamp scott, December 18, 1883, at the age of sixty-eight years and six months. He was born in Woodstock, N. H. Mr. Palmer informed the writer that after pay ing his toll across Charlestown Bridge to Boston he only had two cents left in his pocket. In connection with his brother, D. R. Palmer, he was engaged in the grocery business, Boston, for thirty years. His public spirit led to his prominence in town affairs, OF SWAMPSCOTT. 183 which he maintained up to the tirae of his decease. The prompt filling of the town's quota during the war, 1S61-5, was largely due to his energy and per severance. He had been Chairman of the Board of Selectmen, and held other important offices in the town. He was prominently connected with the free ing of the old Salera turnpike, whicii was built in 1S04, also the building of the Swampscott Branch Railroad to Marblehead. Mr. Palmer married a daughter of James Phillips, who survived him but a few weeks, leaving two daughters. Of the residents of Swampscott who have rounded out the age of three score and ten, are Capt. John B. Harris and wife, natives of Marblehead. Married November 22, 1829. They settled at Lynn (now Swampscott), August, 1833. They can both lay claim to service of their ancestry in the battle of Bunker Hill, through William Harris who served in Capt. Samuel R. Trevett's Conipany, and Andrew Leavitt, grandfather of Mrs. Harris, of whom the records of Capt. Crosby's Company, now on file at Concord, N. H., gives as property lost during the battle of Bunker Hill, "A pair of stockings by Andrew Leavitt." Capt. Harris has followed the sea all his life, and now in his eighty-third year is as fond as ever of " a life on thti ocean wave." John B. Harris, born April 27, 1802, Marblehead ; Mrs. Amy (Leavitt) Harris, born March 15, 1810, Marblehead. Philander Holden, son of Williara Holden, born in 184 HISTORICAL SKETCHES Middlesex, Vermont, April 27, 181 2, and located in Swarapscott, October 17, 1850, and for nearly thirty years owned the corner of Huraphrey and Redington .Streets, where he carried on the grocery, provision and produce business. Since Mr. Holden has been in town, he has held the offices of School Coraraittee, Selectman, Treasurer, Collector and Assessor. Mr. Holden's grandfather, William Holden, was born at Groton, Mass., March 3, 1728. He entered the Colonial Army at a very earlj' age, and was in many important engagements in the French War, among thera the surrender of Fort Williara Henry, at Lake George, the capture of Louisburg and Quebec. About 1760, he settled in Charleston, N. H., and was a Captain in the American Array, through the Revo- lutionarj- War. W. D. Brackett, a well-known citizen of Ipswich, and formerly prorainent as a business raan in Swamp scott, died of pneumonia, April, 1884, at the age of seventy-two years. He was born at WeUfleet, Mass., was engaged in business in Swampscott some twen ty-five years, and retired to a farm at Ipswich, Mass., some twenty years ago, since which time he has been active in town and church affairs, holding the office of Selectman, and being a Trustee of the Ipswich Sav ings Bank, He was well-known in connection with the Asbury Grove Camp Meeting, and was highly esteemed in his own and the neighboring towns. He leaves a family of five children. Nehemiah Lee, born in Moultonborough, N. H., OF SWAMPSCOTT. 185 in 1826 ; came to Swampscott, where he resided from 1S44 to 1852, when he commenced the carpenter and building business, in which he was successful. Moved to Lynn in January, 1859, where he carried on the same kind of business, erecting some of the finest structures in that city. Mr. Lee has since engaged in the lumber trade, and is a dealer in wood and coal, doing a thriving business. He has held many im portant offices of trust, and has a beautiful home on West Baltimore Street, where he now resides. Captain Lorenzo D. Story, son of Phineas and Rosanna Story, was born in Essex, June 11, 1808. His father removed to Swampscott in 1816, and lived in the old "Story" house, corner of Humphrey Street and Story's Court. He graduated at the little red school-house at Whale's Beach, E. B. Phillips being a member of the same class. Captain Story then lived with Mr. Means, working for his food and lodging, at the Mudge farm. He said that pork, cab bage and pumpkin pies, baked in large earthen milk- pans, were among the chief articles on the dinner table. Ebenezer Weeks, Jr., roomed with him, and worked in Phillips' shoe shop. The place bought by Mr. Story's father was formerly owned by Eben Tar box, the name being afterward changed to Thorndike. The house where Mr. Thorndike was married was very small. He made shoes, his wife closing them, as it was called, by use of an awl and wax-end, the work being securely held by a clamp placed between the knees. When Phineas Story purchased the place. 186 HISTORICAL SKETCHES in Swampscott, there were^only fourteen houses be- tween'the "Point" and Stacey's Brook, and one at Tufts' Corner, now near the junction of Lewis and Fayette Streets. Captain L. D. Story married when quite young; he built the "Wilson" House on the Cliff, at the end of Story's Court, which is now the property of James A. Knowlton ; he also built the house owned by Colonel Farwell, on Proctor's Court. Captain Story was one of the raen who went to Dux bury, to purchase the "Jane," so well-known, here. In 1826, could be seen on the coast at Marshfield, near the farm of Daniel Webster, two shanties, on the bank of Cut River, which emptied itself into the ocean at that place. They were the property of Ebenezer Thorndike & Company, lobster dealers, of Charlestown, Mass. They were the teraporary horaes of twelve men, six residing in each, and among them Captain L. D. Story. They were a jolly crew. Lyman Sears, afterwards captain of the "Jane," and Seth Peterson, who was Webster's right-hand man in his fishing and gunning trips, and one of the bearers at Webster's funeral, were among them. Peterson was the recipient of many favors from Web ster, among the gifts being a hat. Story and Webster wore the same size hats. One evening, after their work was done and all were assembled near the huts. Captain Story caught up Webster's hat, and having a very retentive memory, and a good voice, he mounted a hogshead and delivered one of Webster's speeches to his small but appreciative audience. He was OF SWAMPSCOTT. 187 greatly applauded, and Peterson laughed heartily, saying, " You have outdone Webster himself." Story at once retorted, " How can I help it, when I have Webster's words in my raouth and Webster's hat on my head ?" Captain Story was a great lover of music, and was a fine tenor singer, and his daughter being a good musician, raany were the pleasant evenings passed by the young folks of the town at his house. He attended the first concert at which the famous Jennie Lind sang, in Boston, paying $5 for an admis sion ticket. He moved with his family to Magnolia, in March, 1865, where he kept a grocery store, and was the first postmaster, which position he held for many years. His home was the seat of genuine hos pitality, and good cheer. He had quite a genius for rhyming, and many persons can bear witness to his skill with the pen. Although a great lover of "the weed," he never allowed any one to smoke in his store, saying the smoke tainted the goods. He died December 5, 1883, in the seventy-sixth year of his age, leaving a number of sons and daughters. His remains now rest in Swampscott Cemetery. Mark G. Phillips was a highly respected citizen of Swampscott, who passed away in 1884 at the age of eighty-two years, his funeral being attended from the Congregational Church. He was generally known as " Uncle Mark." In his earlier days he engaged in the manufacture of shoes on Burrill Street. He was so eminently just and kindly in his dealings with those whom he employed, that in speaking of him 188 HISTORICAL SKETCHES they often quoted approvingly the Scripture words : " Mark the perfect man." Daniel Roberts was born at Danvers, Mass., in 1 82 1, on the farm of Hon. Daniel P. King. He re mained with his father, who moved to Tamworth, N.H., until he was fourteen years of age, when he took his sraall pack of homespun clothing upon his back, and started alone on foot for Massachusetts. At last he arrived at Breed's Island Farm, and let himself to Mr. Breed, the owner. The stone base ment still remains near Winthrop Station, on the side hill. After remaining a raonth he learned that his master was slow pay, so he packed his bundle and started for Lynn, leaving his wages behind. Arriving at Lynn, he stopped at the Village House, Woodend, over night. The bar-tender came from Taraworth, so they soon became acquainted with each other and had a pleasant chat. Next morning he started for Marblehead, and called on Hathaway, who after wards had charge of Rev. Parson Bardett's farra, and let hiraself for $15 per month until November. Then, with his wages in his pocket, he started for Tam worth, on foot, and, after a long but pleasant walk, reached his father's house, where he attended school until he had finished the winter term, and then, in the spring, carae back to Lynn again and let hiraself to John Newhall, near the corner of Broad and Atlantic Streets, upon the farm, when he cut the winter's wood in Lynn woods ; his stent was one cord per day. On the Sabbath, Mr. Newhall invited him to attend OF SWAMPSCOTT. 189 the service at the Friends' Church ; so Mr. Roberts went with him, but thought it was quite still com pared to what he had been accustomed to in Tam worth. He remained with Mr. Newhall two years. In 1845, Mr. Roberts married Miss Lucinda Wash burn, of Tamworth, N. H., and commenced taking boarders at Farmer Phillips' farm-house. Mr. Rob erts has one son, William H., who is in the Swamp scott and Boston express business, and one daughter, Mrs. Frank F. Stanley, living on Burrill Street. Mr. Roberts drew water from a well that had supplied the old house for over two centuries before, with " The old oaken bucket, the iron-bound bucket. The moss-covered bucket that hung in the well." The following are a few names of the people who spent the summer with Mr. Roberts while he took boarders : Hon. Rufus Choate, George Pratt, James Buck, for eight summers ; Reuben L. Wade, George Tuckerman, M. H. Ballou, of Boston ; John Silsbee, Hon. L. Saltonstall and Richard Fay, of Salera. Mr. Roberts lived with Jarnes Phillips in 1844, and carted hogsheads of water by the aid of oxen, to Clambake Hill, for the thousands who' made it a resort. In 1846, Mr. Roberts, while on Jonathan Phillips' farra, raised one thousand five hundred barrels of onions and carted them to Boston in an ox cart drawn bj' four oxen. He used to start in the evening, in order that he might be at the market at first dawn of day and be ready for cu.stomers. He was the first farmer 190 HISTORICAL SKETCHES who carted onions to Boston market from Swamp scott. The onions brought $1.50 per barrel. Williara P. M. Martin was born in Marblehead in 1800, and was son of Ebenezer and Jane Martin. Mr. Martin built a large boarding-house, the " Anawan," on the lot between Mr. Bates' estate and the street. Rehoboth, a place ten miles from Providence, memo rable on account of the capture of Anawan, August 28, 1676. Anawan was the last of King Philip's chieftains, and it was for him that Mr. Martin named his house. Franklin Haven and J. D. Bates were its first two boarders. The Anawan was sold to J. D. Bates, who moved the building to the spot where the old Ocean House used to be and called it the Beach House. Mr. Ford and afterwards Mr. Phillips rented it. In 1854, Mr. Bates rented it to S. H. and E. N. Wardwell for two years, when E. N. Wardwell bought and ran it until 1875. He moved it back, en larged it from tirae to time during the years 1866-69, and gave it the name of the Ocean House. The cot tage on the front side was formerly a part of the Ocean House. R. W. Carter, of Boston, bought the Ocean House of H. F. Pitman, of Marblehead, in 1881, and made many improveraents. The house was burned in September, 1882, at a loss of about $80,000. In July, 1884, the New Ocean House was built, with all modern conveniences. Hon. Harvey Jewell spent more than twenty sum mers at Whale's Beach. May 28, 1845, Joseph W. Millett was accidentally OF SJVAMPSCOTT. 191 killed while blasting rocks on Clambake Hill. He married a daughter of Captain (Sir) Joseph Fuller, and left a large faraily. Fitzwilliam Griffin was a fisherman, of Swamp scott, and w.as one of the fence viewers in 1852, the first year of Swampscott's incorporation as a town. He was a man of large stature, and peculiar in his looks and ways ; he was very set and straightforward in all his dealings. It was remarked by some who knew him that his profile greatly resembled that of the " Old Man of the Mountains." He lived to a good old age. James Abbot first came to Swampscott in August, 1839, from Rockport, where he was born March 15, 1786. In the winter of 1866, he was eighty years old, and working for Captain Thomas Hadley, split four hundred quintals of fish. He passed away June 13, 1868, aged eighty-two years, leaving many friends to cherish his memory. His brother, William Tarr Abbott is now living at Rockport, aged ninety- six years, and is still hale and hearty. Joseph Harding died in the year 1872, being nearly ninety-seven years of age. He was the oldest Free Mason in the country, having been initiated in Adams Lodge, of WeUfleet, in the year 1800. Mrs. Sally Gilbert, died at Swampscott, November 9, 1878, at the ripe old age of ninety-five years. She was the widow of Captain Jonathan Gilbert, of Glou cester, who was for many years engaged in the West India trade ; he died in 1845, after which time she re- 192 HISTORICAL SKETCHES moved to Swampscott, residing with Capt. A. C New hall and George Gilbert until her death. She was a na tive of Ipswich. She was a smart old lady, and her many friends greatly enjoyed a social chat with her. She reraerabered seeing Gen. Washington at Ipswich. Phineas Story, better known as " Father Story," was born in Chebacco, Mass. (now Essex), May 4, 1782, and on July 13, 1804, was united in marriage with Rosanna Burnham. They brought up a faraily of three sons and six daughters. Father Story lived in the old " Story" house, which until recently stood on the now (1884) vacant lot, corner of Humphrey Street and Story's Court, and died at an advanced age. For many years in early life he followed the fishing business ; afterward he peddled fish in Lynn, and with a zeal and promptitude worthy of imitation. In hot or cold weather, rain or shine, he at dawn would load his hand-cart with the best of fish brought in by the dorymen, and start on his weary way to the homes of his custoraers in Lynn and West Lynn ; after disposing of his fish he would go to the post office, then at the south end of Federal Street, West Lynn, and receiving the Swampscott letters, would distribute them after reaching horae, charging two cents per letter. He continued to deliver such letters from Lynn until 1846, when a post office was estab lished in Swampscott. Then he remarked that he had " lost his new-milch cow," referring to the letters. Year after year he followed his honorable calling, the sound of his horn being eagerly listened for. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 193 Alexander Greenlaw, was born in Scotland, and after coming to these shores, in 1826, was a florist,' and for ten years was gardener on the estates ofj. D. Bates and Mr. Jeffries. In 1868, he wentto Bos ton and engaged in business as a florist, and has met with success. Joshua P. Small, born in Truro, Mass., December 37, 1S23 ; moved to Swampscott, in 1849. At the age of nine years he first engaged in fishing, which call ing he has successfully followed up to the present time. He now resides on Phillips Street (1885). Jasper Emerson, who is so favorably known in Swampscott, opened a meat market in Saleni, in i860, and in 1863, first started a route in Swamp scott, aad to the present day continues in the busi ness. " The Cliff" House," Jas. A. Knowlton ; " Cove House," Jonathan Blaney; "Blaney House,'' Wm. R. Blaney, have fof many years been favorably known to summer visitors. Eben Martin is an old and respected citizen, who has for many years engaged in fishing. George Towns, who is a native of Keene, N. H., moved to Swampscott, in 1856, and engaged in the express business to Boston, continuing in that and the ice business for sixteen years, and is living at jDresent near the hay scales. Benj. J. Lindsey opened a store for the sale of dry goods in 1S69. He has acted as Town Clerk for seven years. 27 194 HISTORICAL SKETCHES In 1877, George E. Gilbert opened a dry goods store in Town's Block. Charles E. Durgin, Calvin Tucker, L. D. Pettingill, S. M. Shattuck and George H. Holden & Co., are all well known as dealers in fine groceries and provisions. November 26, 1884, Captain Miles Blanchard, shot ten ducks, among then a king eider duck, a very rare bird in this vicinity. He has had the bird stuffed and mounted. During the year 1S84, Captain Thomas Stanley shot five hundred and twenty sea birds. In 1870, the writer had a list of twenty-one persons in the town, whose ages averaged eighty-four years and three months. Captain Joseph Harding, aged ninety-seven, was the oldest, and Samuel Tufts, the youngest, aged seventy-eight. At the present writing all have passed away. Within a j'ear, George Stanley, F. L. Young, and one other person, have been killed on the railroad, just east of the bridge beyond the Swampscott depot. All having been struck by the railroad train. September 25, 1884, a whirlwind suddenly swept down Winnepurkitt Hill, Swampscott. Mr. John Stanley and Deacon J. B. Richardson, a fisherman of seventy-six years, were standing near the fish-houses on Blaney's Beach, and the hats of each were blown oif and down the beach into the water. At the same time the water roughened and three dorys were over turned. The air was filled with sand, and for a mo ment swept in all directions. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 195 In the year 1800, Mark Phillips' father built a shoe shop near what is now the sumraer residence of Ari- och Wentworth, of Boston. Nathaniel Fuller was drowned by falling from a fishing boat, off' Phillips Point, July 26, 1800. He was thirty-eight years of age. Caleb Strong was the sixth Governor of Massachu setts, under the new charter. His son married a daughter of Sheriff' Allen, then High Sheriff of Essex County, and the Governor often visited the farm at Swampscott, whicii was known as the "Strong farm ;" it is now owned by the heirs of the late John P. Palmer. Sir William Proctor resided on Cherry Street, Up per Swampscott, for many years. Being sick in his old age, he was removed from his own room, which was unplastered and unfinished, to a finished cham ber ; here he remained a few days, but then he asked to return to his old room, saying, he " wanted pure air to breathe." The request was granted. Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Richardson, of Swampscott, observed their golden wedding, April 14, 1885, by a pleasant family celebration. There was a large gath ering of friends, and among other souvenirs the two hundred members of the Congregational society pre sented a book containing their autographs. CHAPTER XVL SWAMPSCOTT AS A WATERING PLACE. Sea SJiore Resort in Ancient Times. The custom of spending the sultry months of the year on shore, or mountain, has prevailed from verj' ancient times. So early as the days of the first Per sian monarchy, the king and court would leave Susa in the hot season and go away to the highlands and cooler air of Persipolis, or Ecbotana. In the flourish ing days ofthe Roman Empire the magnificent villas of the Senators dotted the coast of beautiful Cara pania. Baiae in the northern indentation of tlie Baj' of Naples was a celebrated resort. The magnificence of its palaces was only equalled by the dissipfition of some of its noble and imperial visitors. Here Nero had a palace. It was also a favorite resort of the poet Horace. Multitudes from the imperial city thronged for refreshnrient to the nearest shores at the mouth of the Tiber, Minucius Filix has left a charming little sketch of an excursion from Rome to the marine baths at Ostia, the port of the citj-. Minucius, who wrote about A. D. i66, was a Christian, and repre- SWAMPSCOTT. 197 sents himself as accompanied by two companions, on the excursion, one a Christian, and the other a heathen, who enlivened the journey with a discussion which leads to the conversion of the former worship per of stones. His object in going, he says, " is that mj' body may have a soothing and appropriate remedy for drying its humors, from the marine bath ing, especially as the holidays of the courts at vintage time have released me from my cares." Conversing pleasantly the friends arrive at the sea, and are walk ing on the broad and open beach. " There," he says, " the gently rippling way was smoothing the outside sands, as if it would leave them as a promenade ; and as the sea is always restless, even when the winds are lulled, it came up on the shore, although not with waves crested and foaming, yet with waves crisped and curling." What modern pen could better have characterized our sparkling waters of Swampscott as compared with the rolling waves of Newport.? "Just then !" he goes on, " we were ex cessively delighted at its vagaries, as on the verj» threshold of the water we were wetting the soles of our feet, while the wave now by turn approaching broke upon our feet, and now returning and retracing its course sucked itself back into itself" How like a scene to be witnessed any summer's day on our beach is the following: "When we came to that place where the little ships were drawn up, we saw sorae boys eagerly gesticulating as they played at throwing shells into the sea. This play is : To choose a shell 198 HISTORICAL SKETCHES from the shore, rubbed and made smooth by the toss ing of the waves, to take hold of the shell in a hori zontal position with the fingers, to whirl it along sloping, and as low down as possible upon the waves, that when thrown it may skim the back of the wave, or may swim as it glides along with a smooth im pulse or raay spring up as it cleaves the top of the waves and rise as if lifted up with repeated springs. That boy claimed to be conqueror whose shell went out farthest and leaped up most frequentlj'." How early in modern times the practice of going to sum- ra.er resorts began, it would be hard, perhaps, to determine ; but, however early, it was only the re suming of an ancient custom fallen unto desuetude, if at all, through the general decline of civilization dur ing the dark ages. The old Ocean House, at the Point, after several years' occupancy, was burnt and the grounds looked desolate enough. Charles W. Galloupe purchased the place of Mrs. Catherine H. Fenno, in 1864, for himself and other parties, James Beck, P. L. Everett and S. D. Nickerson. The land was sub-divided and conveyed by deed to these parties in 1866. The site comprised twentj' acres of rock, field, hillside and level meadow land, and there Mr. Galloupe decided to locate his abiding place for the summer. In time he caused a unique villa to be erected upon the most prominent part of this charming point, overlooking the sea and adjacent country. The house was fitted and furnished in excellent taste, and at the same time OF SWAMPSCOTT. 199 the work of renovating the grounds was commenced, under the charge of that veteran nurseryman and hor ticulturist, the late Sarauel C Pitman. Ere long other cottages were erected : the heirs of John Colla more — Messrs. P. L. Everett, Dr. W^illiam R. Law rence, of Longwood, who has a fine villa and about five acres of land, and John T. Bradley, who has spent several suraraers at this point — are aniong the joint owners of the beautiful spot. Mr. Galloupe's grounds, are very noticeable, and he has on the premises a spacious and convenient conservatory, literally stacked with floral geras. '* He who observes it ere he passes on Pauses again; returns and gazes long That he may call it up when far away." The Lincoln House was built by S. H. Wardwell. It is pleasantly situated at the western end of Phillips Point, which extends a inile in length frora east to west. Wardwell Brothers now run the place. Among the first who kept boarders at Blaney's Beach was Mrs. Jonathan Blaney, better known as "Aunt Betsey." In the summer of 1830, she kept boarders at the old house next to the Blaney House which was built in 1656. Mrs. Blaney had as board ers Mrs. Dudley Hall, of Medford, and some others, and her price per week was $3, which was considered high, as the boarders often waited upon themselves. She kept boarders until within a few years of the tirae that she passed away, October 21, 1861, at the age of ninety-seven years. CHAPTER XVII. S U iM M E R RESIDENTS. Walter Phillips, Jr., in 1684, and J. Phillips and Henry Mayo, in 1693, owned the Point, but on March 10, 1696, the last-named person sold the part which now comprises J. L. Little's estate, to Walter Phillips for £140. Phillips Point has been in the hands of the Phillips family from 1690 to 1884. Mrs. Mary Phillips was the mother of Jonathan Phillips, known as " Farraer" Phillips, whose father's house has be come a resort for summer visitors. As early as i777' William Allen, of the Boston Registry of Deeds office, on Court Street, and house at West Street, came down to Phillips Beach to board for the warm season of the year, wending his way through cart paths with many bars to let down and put up. At the time there were only five houses in the village. In 1779, Demraon Jarvis, of Boston, and in 1795, Joseph Wilson, came down to the point to board. Jonathan Phillips (" Farmer") was born in 1769, at Swampscott, and married Miss Susan Garney, of Marblehead, in 1815. She was born October 21, 1790, and died in Lynn, in i860, at the age of seventy OF SWAMPSCOTT. 201 years. Farmer Phillips was married when he was forty-six years old and his wife twenty-five years old. He comraenced taking boarders in his sraall house in 1815. When Farmer Phillips was a boy the first money he received was for wheeling ballast stones from Phillips Beach on board a lighter, in about 1783. The beach has been from an early date, until 1884, a place for many ballast lighters to procure beach stones for ships in Boston Harbor, but the law of 1884 pro hibits them from doing so longer. It is a great source of relief for the fisherinen, for oftentimes the lighters drew their nets upon the beach and destroyed them, and it also saves the beach frora being further washed. The writer has seen an oil painting of the Phillips estate, done by a summer boarder, in about 1846, showing the beach with a small bath-house on it at about the same place as Mr. Little's bath-houses are at the present tirae. Mrs. Phillips is shown in the picture as beckoning to her husband, who is fishing just off the Point, to come home with the fish for dinner, for cod and haddock, feeding near the rock- bound shore, were very plenty in those days. Mrs. Phillips is represented as standing about where "Shingle Side Cottage" is now. The house and barn with the well having the moss-covered bucket attached to the long sweep, is also shown. During the summer of 1855, Joseph Ames, the art ist, lived in the house of the writer, over his store and post office, on Black Will's Cliff". While there, he painted the celebrated picture, "Last Days of Daniel 38 202 HISTORICAL SKETCHES Webster at Marshfield." Many copies of this paint ing have been executed in steel, and now adorn many a house in the land. The artist borrowed the writer's old " slouch" hat for a model, and it is represented in the picture as held in the hand of John Taylor, the farmer. Beginning at the left of the picture, the fol lowing-named persons are represented : Charles Hen ry Thoraas, Jacob LaRoy, Hon. Edward Courtis, Mrs. Daniel Webster, Mrs. Jaraes W. Paige, Samuel A. Appleton, James W. Paige, Hon. George Ash raun, Hon. Rufus Choate, Peter Harvey, Fletcher Webster, Daniel Webster, Miss Caroline L. Apple- ton, Master Daniel Webster, Master Ashburton Web ster, Mrs. Fletcher Webster, Miss Caroline Webster, Dr. J. Mason Warren, Dr. John Jeffries, Sarah (col ored servant) , John Taylor, farmer. Porter Wright. The spot where Webster reposes is upon elevated land overlooking the sea and his farra at Marshfield. The spot is retired and quiet, nothing being heard save the soothing dirge of the ocean and the answer ing sighs of the wind. It is the spot of all others for his resting place. A stone bears these words : "Dan iel Webster, born January i8, 17S2 ; died October 24, 1852." In his last speech on the fishery question, Mr. Webster exclairaed with a flashing eye and ges ture full of meaning: " The fishermen shall be pro tected, hook and line, bob and sinker." Nothing could have pleased his hearers better, and loud and long was the applause that followed. Wendell Phillips and family, in the summers of OF SWAMPSCOTT. 203 1865, '66, '68 and '69, boarded with Abner Hayford, Humphrey Square. Mrs. Phillips was an invalid, but enjoyed the fine landscape and sea view, which was not to be surpassed. In 1870, Mr. Phillips spent the summer with Z. King Harding, on Winnepurkitt Hill, and was much pleased with the sea-view and scenery from that place. The Baptist Church was built in 1873, and soon after, a course of lectures was begun to help pay for the church. The committee called upon Mr. P. and asked his price for one lecture. He replied $30 ; and after delivering the lecture, that amount was paid him. Several days after, he for warded a check for this amount to the committee as a present to the church. Mr. Phillips died in Boston, Februarj' 2, 1884, at the age of seventy-two years. " Only the ashes of the just Smell sweet and blossom in the dust." In the days of the Ocean House, Ocean Street was considered a part of Swampscott, the summer water ing place. Among the first to erect a summer cottage was Benjamin T. Reed, who purchased the land of Joseph Ingalls, in 1842, for $1500. An old resi dent says that Mr. Reed was looking for a spot on which to locate, and saw Mr. Ingalls at work in his field making hay. Approaching him, Mr. Reed said, "Good afternoon, sir. Is this your land.?" "Yes, sir," was the answer. " Will you sell it.?" " Yes." "I will give you four hundred dollars per acre for it." Mr. Ingalls threw down his rake in astonishment, and 204 HISTORICAL SKETCHES asked " Do you mean it.?" On being assured that the offer was bona fide, Mr. Ingalls sta.rted for a lawyer to have the deed made at once, fearing that Mr. Reed would change his mind. The price was a large one at that time (1843). The land is now worth $8000 per acre (1884). Mr. Alexander, the artist, built the beautiful house now owned by Isaac Sweetser, of Boston. Judge Benjamin R. Curtis built the Blake summer cottage. George M. Barnard and Judge Curtis, of Boston, were among the first boarders at Phillips Point, Messinger House, and residence on Ocean Street. The next in order was George M. Barnard, who sold his property to James R. Law rence, and Mr. Lawrence built a large house on the place. The estate is now owned by Wm. T. Hart, of Boston. Mr. Prescott built the house afterward owned by Charles H. Scott, of Hudson, N. Y., and now occupied by Mrs. Page, as a first-class boarding house. Hon. Leopold Morse spent his first summer in Swampscott, in 1866, at Bay Cottage, Ocean Street. He spent five summers near Whale's Beach. Joseph lasigi lived in his mansion on Ocean Street for many summers. It is now owned by Francis W. Breed, of Lynn. William B. Reynolds built a pretty cottage on this street, and after enjoying it several seasons, he went to Longwood and spent his remaining days. The house, rauch improved, is now occupied by Benjamin W. Currier, of Lynn. Na thaniel Hooper had a fine estate which he sold to the late Silas Pierce, who occupied it thirteen summers. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 205 The estate is now leased by J. B. Holden, of Boston. Royal S. Robbins, of the Waltham watch factory, has a fine estate ; the house was built by .Judge Chas. Curtis, in 1845. Mrs. J. M. Lander owns the stone house with about three acres of land. Hon. Henry L. Pierce is the owner of B. T. Reed's Westerly House, now rented by T. B. Aldrich, the poet. Dr. Fuller, of Charlestown, has a beautiful villa, and near by George H. Tinkham occupies Bellevue Cottage. Thomas Hall lived many summers at Ash Cottage, now occupied by his son-in-law, Mr. Brewer. In front of Ash Cottage stands the remains of an old ash tree planted over a hundred years ago, when Lewis Street was but a cart path, and the bay from Stacy's Brook to Red Rock could be seen from that path. Next in order we corae to the imposing mansion on Whale's Beach, designed by Hunt, the distinguished New York architect, which was erected by Jacob M. Haskell. It is one of the handsomest and most con venient along the Nortii Shore, and the estate era- braces a large lot of land and an elegant stable on the opposite side of the street. This is now the property of Colonel Henry G. Parker, editor and proprietor of the well-known and popular Boston Saturday Even- ' ing Gazette, now in its seventy-second year. It is the oldest journal in Boston, and a paper widely known and highly regarded for its ability and success. Colonel Parker had been accustoraed to pass the sum mer on the South Shore, but in 1880, he found his way to Swampscott, and for two summers hired the 206 HISTORICAL SKETCHES house of the late Hon. J. Thomas Stevenson. Then he purchased his present residence of Mr. Haskell, refitted and furnished it throughout, and has resided there three years. Now Colonel Parker has become a legal resident and votes in the town of Swampscott. Philo S. Shelton has one of the finest mansions on Whale's Beach. His first visit to Swampscott was in 1836, at the old Ocean House at Phillip's Point. He has spent every summer but one in Swampscott since that time. That one suraraer he went to the South Shore, but the warm land breeze was so different from the cool sea breeze at Swampscott, that he decided to revisit Swampscott. He is the oldest suinmer resident of Swampscott. Thurlow Weed, of Ne-^v York, while visiting Mr. Shelton, in 1851, at Swampscott, caught a cod fish weighing sixty-seven pounds, which pleased him greatlj'. Sorae tirae later a private din ner was in progress at the Astor House, N. Y., when Mr. Shelton chanced to visit that hotel. "You are just the raan we want to see," said Colonel Stetson ; " at a dinner in that room are a dozen public men, all friends of yours, and a heavy bet is made that Weed did not catch a cod fish weighing fifty pounds." Mr. Shelton was called in and saved Mr. Weed from loss by announcing that he had been his guest when the cod was taken, and that instead of fifty pounds, it weighed sixty-seven pounds. G. S. Hall's parrot, " Butter Cup," Phillips Point, is known bj' all for the pretty songs it has sung for tlie last six J'ears. OF SWAMPSCOTT. , 207 Ex-Gov. Gaston has a pretty Cottage on Woodbine Avenue. Weston Lewis also has a cottage on that avenue. At one time during the summer of 1883, his son walked from Hotel Vendome, Boston, to Mudge's gate, Swampscott, distance twelve miles, in two hours, thirty-four minutes. George Blackburn, 1870, enjoyed his summer resi dence on Proctor's Court, for many summers. Col. Farwell now occupies the place. C P. Curtis lived with his father. Judge Curtis, in 1845, on Ocean Street. After several summers he purchased, in 187 1, a place at the point, bordering on Whale's Beach, and made many improvements upon it. The celebrated dog, " Foam," is cared for on the place bj' George T. Melzard in the winter, but in the fall he attends his master on sporting excursions to the South. F. L. Richardson's first summer in Swamp scott was in i860, and that summer he spent at the Highlands. In 1861, he rented Mrs. Rowe's cottage Black Will's Cliff, and has spent his summers there every year since. N. B. Gibbs and family have spent many summers at Blaney's cottage, and in 1880 at Waldo Thompson's cottage. William Ropes and family rented the Blanej- cottage in 1857; he was much interested in the welfare of the First Congre gational Church, and built a vestry for the parish. In 1843, Gridley J. F. Bryant, of Boston, rented a cottage on Story's Court. He spent twenty-six sum mers on the Nortii Shore, twenty-four of which were at Swampscott and two at Nahant. Eleven summers 208 HISTORICAL SKETCHES he occupied Mudge's old farm house, whicii was built in 1634. John H. Rogers rented his first cottage in 1865, and in 1866 he bought a cottage on King's Beach, which he now occupies. Arioch Wentworth has a house on Burrill Street, which he has enjoj'ed for about twenty years. E. B. Hull has spent the greater part of his suraraers since 1871 in Swamp scott. Rev. Dr. Parkman spent several summers in this town about the year 1847. Dr. George H. Gay- was a summer resident of Swampscott from 1856 to 1S66. He passed his first summer at the square, flat- roofed house, owned by William R. Blaney, in com pany with hisffither-in-law. Dr. Winslow Lewis. He lived in the house the following summer. In 1868, he hired the old house now owned by Orlando R. Millett, where he continued to live until 1875. He passed the summers of 1875 and 1876 in Grantville, and his last sumraer was spent in Swampscott, at a house belonging to Eben B. Phillips, on Atlantic Avenue, now occupied by Warren Phillips. Dr. Gay- was born March 23, 1S23, and died August 13, 1S78. Arthur Cheney lived during the summer of 1866 in the cottage owned by Joseph Blaney, next the Han ford estate. In 1867, he occupied the estate which he bought of Gorham Gray, since become Hotel Bea con ; he continued to live here until 1875. Dr. Wins low Lewis lived in William R. Blaney's house in 1866 and 1867, and his son-in-law, Arthur Cheney, from i868 to 1873; he lived in Nathaniel Blanchard, Jr.'s house in 1873 ^"'^ '^74- OF SWAMPSCOTT. 209 Hon. A. A. Ranney rented the Marshall cottage at Blaney's Beach for four years. Mr. Edward Alden has occupied his mansion on Winnepurkitt Hill manj' summers. G. Frank Brow-n now owns the E. B. Phillips estate. R. E. Demmons owns the Lee Cot tage. Mr. Griflfiths owns the Gray estate. C H. Allen has a prettj' cottage at Piiillips Point. Col. J. A. Ingalls and J. W. Cha ¦ nan have cottages on Blaney's Beach. Frederick Jones has spent many summers at D. H. Millett's residence. R. M. Field, manager of the Boston Museura, rented the Stanley Cottage. Oliver Ditson and family have spent a number of summers at the Lincoln House. W. E. James rented A. R. Bunting's cottage on Black Will's Cliff', four seasons. Col. Charles A. Stetson, who opened the Astor House, New York, in 1837, '^^^ noted for gathering to his hotel distinguished travelers and business men, who wished a home while in the city. He has vol umes of autographs of these gentlemen, and when he retired from hotel life he stored the volumes at his residence at " Woodside" farm, in Swampscott, for notice by future generations. Mrs. Lucy A. Stetson, his wife, died March 29, 1881. A southern lady, while driving through our woods during the summer, noticed several white birch trees. She had never seen anything of the kind before, so, turning to her companion, she exclaimed, " How very particular you northerners must be to take the trouble to whitewash all these trees !" 29 CHAPTER XVIII. YACHTING. Origin of Regattas. — Noted TacJits. Venice is the home and birth-place of regattas, whence they were introduced into England in 1775. In the appendix of the Ani^ual Register of that year is an article entitled, " Some account of the new en tertainment, called the Regatta, introduced from Ven ice into England in i775'" '^he event is chronicled as producing an universal sensation. The entire bank of the Thames was crowded from London Bridge to Milbank, and even Westminster Hall was provided with a staging for spectators. Plans of the regatta were sold for prices ranging frora a penny to one shilling each, songs on the occasion were hawked about, in sorae of which " regatta" was made to rhyme with " Ranelagh," and " Royal Family" with "Liberty." In the account in question, the racing does not seem to have attained to any degree of im portance in point of time or speed, since the Register dismisses that feature with the meagre note: "The wager boats started on the signal of the firing of a SWAMPSCOTT. 211 single piece of cannon," adding that " they were ab sent about fifty minutes." The following description of the yacht "Fearless" was written by a person competent to judge of her sailing qualities : " Swampscott has always been noted for her fast- sailing fishing-boats. Probably no place can excel them in speed and model. They are often compet ing with each other, which gives a very lively in terest to racing. Almost every day these trials of speed occur, which afford much food for discussion for all on shore when the day is not suitable for fish ing. The 'Fearless' was built in Bath, Me., in 1871, by C B. Harrington. She is schooner-rigged, measures fifty-four feet three inches on the water-line, is sixteen feet wide and of forty-four tons burden. At this time of writing she is owned by E. B. Phil lips, belongs to the Eastern and Boston clubs, and has probably made the best record of speed of aflj' yacht that floats. She has taken prizes as follows : First prize in Eastern, in the first-class, 1872 and 1873 ; first prize in second-class, 1874 and 1875 ! al ways winning first prize in first-class in Boston club, and first prize in Boston regattas ; winning prizes at Swampscott, Beverly and Isles of Shoals — in all win ning eighteen successive prizes during four years, in a variety of chances, through light, variable and heavy winds, and thunder squalls. The owner was a Swampscott fisherman some fifty years ago, when he took a lively interest in sailing, fishing and shooting. 212 HISTORICAL SKETCHES and at near the age of three score and ten years, he returns to yacht sailing, to corapete with ' Young America.' Either the model of the boat or the skill and science of sailing her by the wind has caused great wonder, and the mind of the ingenious yachts man and fisherraan has been much taxed to discover in what manner her speed had been acquired. I have been a fisherman and yachtsman for raany years, and have often contended with the ' Fearless.' The last tirae I saw her sail was at the Isles of Shoals, in 1875, at the time the stake boat was displaced. The ' Resolute,' of New York, ' America' and ' Fearless ' hauled by theiwind, ten miles to leeward of the Isles of Shoals, the yachts being within speaking distance of each other. The ' Fearless' took the lead, arriv ing at the stake boat at the Isles of Shoals first. The ' Resolute ' is two hundred and six tons, the ' Amer ica,' one hundred and seventy, and the ' Fearless ' forty-four tons. The sail took place in a good lead ing breeze — enough to take in staysails. To sail a boat of forty tons against the two naraed, which are so celebrated for speed, looked like presumption, yet the ' Fearless' was successful in so contending. I do not hesitate to say, and feel confidence in the assertion, that the ' Fearless' is the smartest schooner boat, by the wind, that now floats." The "Fearless" has taken thirty-one prizes, consisting of money, cups and other articles, up to the present tirae (1884). The yacht " Halcyon," now so famous, was built at Port Jeflferson, N. Y., in the year 1866. She was OF SWAMPSCOTT. 213 one hundred and twenty-one tons, old measurement, and by the new is registered six'ty-seven tons. Since being built, the owners have had an overhanging stern added to the original hull. Previous to the year 1881, slie was not considered as a very fast yacht. Being purchased by General C J. Paine, of Boston, and was entered by her owner to compete for the " Buck" prizes, offered by E. A. Buck, of New York, in a race sailed August 5, 1881, and contested by yachts of the Eastern and New York clubs. The prizes consisted of two cups, of unique design and elaborate workmanship, and were valued at five hundred dollars each. The course was off Clarke's Point, New Bedford, and was thirty miles in length. There was a good sailing breeze, the tide was the first of the ebb, and all the yachts moved off close hauled on the starboard tack, and presented a beautiful appear ance. The " Halcyon " soon took the lead, but was hard pressed by the " Dauntless," Comraodore Wal ler. Soon after the opening of the race the " Daunt less " set a working staysail, but although it increased her speed, she could not pass the " Halcyon,'- which was going through the water so fast she made it al most a seething maelstrom ; it boiled and hissed, but she went forward all the raore ! Near the close of the race a threatening fog shut the contesting yachts from view, but the " Halycon " triumphantly came in, almost like a phantom ship, winning the race, making the entire distance in three hours twenty- seven minutes fifty-six seconds, corrected tirae. It 214 HISTORICAL SKETCHES was a great surprise, but to the New York club it was the cause of much chagrin, especially so when it was remembered that while the winning yacht be longed to their club, she was not thought worthy of particular attention in a race. In August, 1882, the "Halcyon" sailed another race with the New York club, this time with the addition of the "Montauk," which had beaten their best yachts. The " Halcyon" got the lead in the first hour, but then broke the step of the jibboom, which, causing delay, lost them the race. The prize was for a cup valued at $1000. After the race the fleet left for Marblehead, when another race was arranged, but no araount of persuasion could induce the owners of the "Montauk" to compete with the "Halcyon," which won the race. On the loth of August, 1883, there was a race sailed off' Marblehead, in which the " Fortuna," "Montauk," "Halcyon" and "Estelle" competed for a cup valued at $350. The New York Spirit of tJie Ti-mes saj's : " The race was, of course, be tween lhe two center-board boats, for, fast as the ' For tuna' undoubtedly is, no keel yacht has any business with boats like the ' Halcyon' and ' Montauk' in anj' weather. It was a pity that the two center-boards parted corapany, as there was so much curiosity to see how the ' Montauk ' would sail with so noted a flyer as the ' Halcyon,' but the latter went round on the starboard tack soon after the start, the 'Montauk' holding her port reach, and so they were widely sepa- OF SWAMPSCOTT. 215 rated. The judgment of the 'Halcyon' skipper proved most correct, and the shift ofthe wind gave her a nice reach, with head full for the mark, the ' Montauk' constantly coming up and making a wide circuit in her eff'orts to reach the mark close hauled. Even the ' Fortuna,' which had also made a reach in shore, beat the ' Montauk,' which finished last, the ' Estelle' being withdrawn." Captain Martin V. B. Stone, of Swampscott, has acted as sailing master for twelve years, having charge ofthe following yachts : sloop "Euchre," H. B. Gow ing, owner, three years; schooner "Princess," F. W. Lawrence, owner, three years ; schooner " Zeph yr," Gen. C J. Paine, owner, one year ; schooner " Halycon," C J. Paine, owner, five years. Swamp scott is notorious as a birthplace of first-class sailing- masters, araong them being Captain Hezekiah K. Newcomb, now sailing-master of Commodore Hovey's yacht " Fortuna," and at present in the West Indies ; Captain Seth C Kendrick, master ofthe "Fearless," a noted yacht ; Captain Rufus Delano, who has sailed the " Haze," " Dawn " and " Caroline " and others. Mr. Demond Jarvis, of Lincoln House, owned the sloop " Trotter " that won many prizes. Built by J. A. Knowlton, of Swarapscott. The schooner yacht "Bessie" is another pleasure boat hailing from Swampscott. The "Bessie" was built by Pierce Brothers, of South Boston, for parties in New Bedford. She was not considered as fast for several years, and took no prizes. After several 216 HISTORICAL SKETCHES. years, Charles P. Curtis purchased the boat, and made some important changes by adding an overhanging stern, cutting down the masts and widening the heads ofthe sails. Once more she made an appearance in her native element, and soon was prominent as a yacht of great speed for her class. She has contested in raany races, and won fifteen first prizes and two second. Her measurement is now twenty-seven feet on the water line, and thirty-four feet over all. While leading in one race, Mr. Curtis' dog " Foam," a Chesapeake Bay retriever, bred for fielding wild geese and ducks, mistaking a lobster buoy for a duck, jumped overboard in pursuit. The delaj' caused by his actions lost the " Bessie" the race. CHAPTER XIX. BEACH BLUFF. Beach Bluff is a part of Swam'pscott. The first piece of land here named on record, independent of Lynn, was when Daniel King made his will and spoke of his property as being in " Swarapscott." In 1671, part of his land was at Beach Bluff, near Beaver Brook, which runs through Allen Rowe's farm to the salt water. Seventy-five j'ears ago there were 'out two houses in this quiet village — one was W. D. Rowe's farm-house, another was a house built by Jacob Phil lips, over two hundred years ago, which was a small building. Addison Child and others enlarged the house from time to time until it was a large and roomy mansion, being surrounded by a velvety lawn and shaded by elms. The house was let to Mr. Chicker ing, piano manufacturer at Boston, and after that tirae was called the " Chickering Mansion." Mr. Rowe, who lived directly opposite, died at the age of ninety-five years. The year before he died he gave one of his friends a problem that he had worked out, when a small boy, upon a bootjack with a piece of chalk, by the light of a pine knot fire, as follows : 3° 218 HISTORICAL SKETCHES " A COW had a calf every year from the time she was three years old until she was twenty years old. All her calves and their offspring had heifer calves yearly from the time they were three years old till they were twenty. How raany did all produce.?" If the walls of our old houses had ears and could now talk, they could relate strange stories ofthe olden times, and picture the joy and suffering that was en dured, but which has long since passed away. A family named Redin occupied the farm house for more than fifty, years. It was one of the early grants made by the Massachusetts Bay Colony, and the sec ond recorded (Book i, page 2) in the Essex Registry of Deeds. The grantee, Christopher Foster, (some times called Sir Christopher), came over in the "Abi gail" in 1635, at the age of thirty-two. Daniel King, a man of influence in the colony, bought it in 1645, and subsequently conveyed it (Book i, page 18) to his daughter, the wife of Thadeus Redin. She rented it to her son John for the term of nine hundred and ninety-nine years at £10 a year. The lease (subse quently merged in the fee) will expire in the year 2679 in our era. Possibly a new era may be evolved to date leases from before that one expires. The last resident of this old familj', also named Thadeus, be coming misanthropic, suspicious and'miserly, secreted his money in his neighbor's cellar, now Rowe's, where he often went to count and gloat over the shin ing pieces, coined before George III. was king. One day, impelled by family troubles or some other cause. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 219 he strewed his gold about the cellar, and incontinent ly hung himself there, of which his family were speedily notified ; but they lost so much time in se curing and dividing his money that the old man was dead before they loosened his cravat. Suicides not being allowed burial in Christian ground in those days, and cremation not being in vogue, they inhumed his body on the gravelly knoll just north of the house, on what is now called Rokely Street, near Hooper Cottage. Many years afterward, when strangers possessed his fireside and the plow had levelled the gravelly mound, people began to question his home-made grave. To test it, some farm laborers took the ad vantage of a moonlight night to open the unconse crated mound, where they struck a pine box, and, upon raising the decaying cover, beheld the self-mur derer lying on his back, as perfect in face and form as when on the day his heirs garnered him in ; gaz ing a moraent, the bucolic worthies betook themselves to their heels in fright. On returning soon after with reinforcements, lo, the coffin was empty ! Did the subject take his opportunity to "leave. his unwhole some grave," and "visit the glimpses of the moon shine," or 'shall we seek a prophylactic against such ghostly fancies in the chemistry ofthe elements.? In 1755, this place passed from the Redins to Jacob Fowle, a wealthy land owner in this and the adjoin ing towns of Salem and Marblehead. He lived in patriarchal style, owning raany negro slaves whom 220 HISTORICAL SKETCHES he seeraed to have treated as gle lae ascriptus, liter ally burying thera about the farm wherever most con venient ; several have been unearthed in making re cent improvements. In 1785, Mr. Fowle sold the farm to Walter Phillips, and it was kept in the hands of the Phillips family until 1854. Then George Phillips, the grandson of Walter Phillips, sold the property to Rev. J. B. Clark and Edward Woodford for $7000. Mr. Clark built a house and lived there many years. He also set out many trees about the grounds, which now give fine shade, and under which the Sunday school (Mr. Clark being the pastor ofthe First Congregational Church) and parish enjoyed many social hours. Mrs. Manton now owns the estate, and Mr. Woodford, who kept a school for boys many years, the Chickering house. Mr. Clark and Mr. Woodford laid out the avenue, now called Beach Avenue, to the sea. Lots, containing one or more acres, are laid out on each side of the avenue ; the larger part of them were sold at auction at about one or two cents per foot. Mr. Payson erected a house on his lot in 1857, which he occupied the year around until after Mr. Child purchased it in 1863. He re modelled the house and grounds, but not satisfied with one house, he bought more lots, laying out streets, and built some five or six cottages which have all the modern conveniences. The water is pumped by a windraill into a tank fifty feet in height; an al most unlimited number of houses can be supplied with pure, fresh water from this spring. There are OF SWAMPSCOTT. 221 more windmills at the present time in Beach Bluff' than in the whole town put together. " The windmill is a useful thing when fixed upon a vane; It tells which way the wind blows and pumps the water up again." In 1868, the county built the road called Atlantic Avenue, which runs from Humphrey Square, through Beach Bluff to Marblehead, opening many cHbrming sites along the shore. Dr. Ahlborn and I. P. T. Edmands have pretty lots and cottages, and there are two others owned by the Phillipses. In 1872, Hotel Preston was built upon one of the most commanding sites. Near by is the upland, of which there are two houses, each of delightful location. There is a magnificent view of the water and uninter rupted inland scenery, and the dry soil and good drainage, makes it fully appreciated. Phillips Beach, a mile in length, furnishes good boating and bathing. The Swampscott Branch Railroad passes through the village, carrying its many passengers. A pretty station was built at Beach BluflT, and a room on the second story was finished off, and now the Farmers' Club holds its ra.eetings there. "The Elms" has been enlarged during the past winter, and now has accommodations for over one hundred guests. The lofty English elms about the place afford a fine shade, and as the cooling breeze comes in from the bay they give a pleasant resting place beneath the branches for the guests' of the house. 222 HISTORICAL SKETCHES The house is within easy reach of both horse and steam cars — the horse cars run every hour from Lynn, through Swampscott to Marblehead, and return. George S. Burton, who has been an earnest advo cate of the natural attactions of Beach Bluft', and who has erected there some cosey cottages, replete with all city conveniences, one of whicii he occupies as his summer home, is a direct descendant through nine generations of Boniface Burton, whose portrait adorns the frontispiece of Lewis' History of Lynn (edition of 1844, page 63), with the following inscription: "Boniface Burton was a farmer, and was admitted a freeman May 6, 1635 ; 1638, sixty acres of land were giv.en him. He died June 13, 1669, aged 113 years. He was the oldest man that ever lived in Lynn." As Swampscott was formerly a part of Lynn, Mr. Bur ton at present resides in the same town as the pro genitor ofthe family two hundred and fifty years ago. The Burton family in the mean time have been one of the oldest and most prorainent New Hampshire fam ilies, and has given its blood in every war for the preservation of the colony and subsequent nation since the landing ofthe Pilgrims in 1620 ; and the de scendants of this same Boniface have peopled everj' Northern State and Territory in this country. George D. Fenno rented the Wilcox Cottage for the season of 1884; this cottage is also on Beach Blufl' Avenue. Leonard Ware has a pretty cottage on Forest Avenue. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 223 Allen W. Clough, at Beach Bluff, is station agent and postmaster. Charles S. Lewis is station agent at Phillips Beach. The last named station has a tower, and a $200 clock given by the late J. P. Palmer. On one side of the station are the Phillips Fairbanks Scales, of the latest improved pattern. Mr. L. Ware, Jr., planted rock maple trees in the Grammar School-house j'ard, in 187S, which are an ornament to the town. Henry F. Miller, H. F. Miller, Jr., and J. C Mil ler, have pretty cottages on Mostyn Street. Many other cottages and stately mansions adorn the place. In 1875, the huge fawn-colored grey-hound, famil iarly called " Brownie," died suddenly of heart dis ease when in his twelfth year. After winning the Waterloo cup in England, which is the highest prize a dog can take in a coursing match, his owner gave him to a citizen of Boston. He passed the remainder of his days with Addison Child, at Beach BluflT,. win ning the hearts of all by his beauty, grace and intelli gence. A cast of his head was taken for the Museum of Natural History, Boston. In 1S83, Cedar Hill Cottage was burned ; loss $5500. First jewelry store in town was opened in 1883. The oldest lady in town, in 1885, is Widow Thank ful Higgins, born 1798- CHAPTER XX. THE POINT. William Fenno, the popular proprietor of a res taurant in Theatre Alley, Boston, went down to Swarapscott in 1835, on a fishing excursion with Captain Miles Blanchard. While passing the Point, Mr. Fenno remarked to the skipper, " That would make a fine summer resort." On their return they walked over to view the landscape, and on looking it over, Mr. Fenno resolved to buy a lot of land there. He soon found the owners, and the deeds were passed for land bounded on the soutii by the sea, on the east by the land of Jonathan Phillips, on the north by the old road, and on the west bj' land of Nathan Martin. The lot was called New Cove, Phillips Point, Swamp scott, and contained about twenty-two acres. The deeds were signed bj' William Chase, Jr., Walter Phillips, and eighteen other heirs. The field was bought for $1700, a much smaller sum than 'it is worth to-day. On this lot Mr. Fenno erected a hotel called the Ocean House, and for manj' years it was a resort for summer pleasure-seekers. Among the first parties who found their way to this hotel were Messrs, OF SWAMPSCOTT. 225 Philo S. Shelton, of Boston, and John Cushing, of Watertown. After two years Mr. Fenno let the hotel to Colonel Thomas Alker and Mr. Messenger to run for the summer, and built a new hotel named Fenno Cottage. Mr. Putman was successful with Ocean House Company about 1850. The chief features of attraction possessed by this now fashionable watering-place — this Mecca of the North Shore, to which the dwellers in marble halls, invalid tenants o,f brick and mortar houses, the wearied man of business, the merchant from his counting- house, the lawyer from his briefs, the physician fol lowing his convalescent patients, the chemist from his laboratory, the clergyman frora his study, the fatigued followers in the train of metropolitan excitement, to which all, who can find here teraporary homes dur ing the summer solstice, are now hurrying — are its unsurpassed sea view, its invigorating breezes wafted across the sea from every point of the compass save due north, its bold and rugged front piled up against old ocean, its marble beach, whose surface scarce deigns to receive an inipression from the dainty feet which patter over it, and its unequalled facilities for bathing. Th'ere is a famous spring at the Point, which, al though only a foot or two in depth, has 'never been known to run dry, even in times of the most severe drought. It discharges from five hundred to two thousand gallons each twenty-four hours, and is well 31 226 HISTORICAL SKETCHES known, not only to the immediate vicinity, but to the neighboring towns. It was often the case, when the spring was open to the public, that persons from a dis tance would bring with them vessels for carrying the water to their homes, and thus procure several days' supply ofthe best drinking water. But there exists a spring of pure, fresh water upon the beach, only to be reached when the tide is more than half out, which, although not of so extensive a reputation, was verj- well known and enjoyed in a peculiar way, by the eccentric proprietor of the old Fenno estate, who always appreciated a good joke, and was a proverbially generous host. It was his custom to invite his boon companions to visit him at Swampscott, and, after they had enlivened themselves at his festive board, he would take them for an airing to the beach and, reraoving the sand and gravel which concealed the spring, throw out with his hands enough of the material to make a receptacle sufficient to hold the contents of a bottle, and then pour into it a full flagon of Hennessey's best brandy, and bid them drink it before it became diluted, and they generally effectually did it. Joshua Sears, well known in Boston, in 1S46, once said that the ladies coming from Boston like to enjoy a sea bath at Swampscott Beach in just such costumes as they please, in elaborate costumes or in old cast- off dresses, without fear of talk. And one would almost think, to see the lady bather of to-daj', that a genuine mermaid had come up out of the water. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 227 In the month of July, 1847, James L. Little made an agreement with W. P. M. Martin to purchase of him that portion of his present estate in Swampscott, Phillips Point, that was afterward conveyed to him, October 25, 1847, about whieh time he commenced the house known as " Blythewood," in wliich he now resides, and which he occupied for the first time in the spring of 1848. Mr. Little at that time was the senior member of the firm of Little, Alden & Co., importers of dry goods. The land then purchased was rough, rocky and swampy, covered with stunted trees and underbrush, and it would be hard to recog nize it in its present state of improvement. At or about the same time Edward C Bates purchased a property along side of that of Mr. Little, from E. B. Phillips, and built the residence now known in its improved form as " Greenhill." The property was added to Mr. Little's estate by purchase from the heirs of Mr. Bates, January 21, 1879. Shortly after the date, Mr. Li|tle plowed up the garden and laid it out to lawn, building two very large and fine man sions, one of which, the " Shingleside," has been oc cupied by Charles P. Hemenway for three summers ; the other, " Grasshead," by Henry C Weston for three summers. The " Greenhill" house was occu pied one summer after its accession to Mr. Little's es tate, by H. C Weston, in 1880; one summer by David P. Kimball, 1881, who is connected with Mr. Little through the marriage of his youngest son, David M. Little and Miss Clara B. Kimball, daugh- 228 HISTORICAL SKETCHES ter of Mr. Kiraball ; by W. L. Bradley, during the summer of 1882 and 1883, and is leased for the pres ent summer to Hon. W. A. Russell, M. C. (1884). About the time that these houses were built, the house known as the " Cottage," on the old Bates es tate, was enlarged and altered by Arthur Little for a residence for Mrs. Grace A. Oliver, tlie daughter of Mr. Little, whose literary tastes are well known. Those who have had a glimpse of this most charming cottage, pronounce it delightful in all its appoint ments. The house known as "Beach End," whicii has been occupied for four seasons by ex-Mayor Samuel C Cobb, of Boston, was first built on land purchased by Charles L. Pearson, April 6, 1867, and was acquired of him by Mr. Little, October 9, 1873, for his oldest son, James L. Little, Jr., who has since left the paternal homestead for Brookline, where he built himself a very fine residence. The " Beach End" house was added to during the occupancj' by Mr. Little, Jr. "Brier Gate," as the residence of John Mason Little was called, was built in the au turan of 1874, upon land belonging in part to the old estate purchased in 1847, and in part upon land pur chased in 1874, the latter being a part of what was then known as the old Roberts barn ; in fact the old horaestead of Jonathan Phillips. JohnM. Little, is the second son of J. L. Little, and is his man of busi ness, and fias always been most intimately connected with him in his relations. Mr. Little ha^ a tower on his estate, in connection with a reservoir whicii OF SWAMPSCOTT. 229 supplies all his cottage's with pure water from a spring near by. The water is pumped up by a small steam engine. {See Finis.) "John's Field" was a part of Farraer Phillips' farm and contained about five acres. x\mong its other features was a beautiful cove. About, ninety years ago, a lady whose name was Mary Cove, took a pleasant walk, one fine morning, to Swampscott, along the coast. After a long walk she came upon a cove with a white, sandj- beach, and the tossing waves as they were breaking upon the shore. Anxious to see the rocks and the inner part of the cove, she climbed down over them, but by some misstep she lost her footing and fell into the water. As good fortune would have it, a farmer was near, and seeing her, caught her dress and pulled her in upon the shore. At this tirae the cave was called simply " The Cove," but after this incident it was called "The Old Woman's Cove." In this place many loads of sea weed were washed upon the shore, but for a long time no way could be invented to carry it away, since the cliff was so steep that oxen could not carry it up. At last Mr. Phillips found a way by which the sea weed could be raised up to land and carted away. A car was made and a pulley constructed, and in this way the seaweed was hoLsted and then borne away by oxen. It took two men to load, two to unload, and one to drive the oxen. Daniel Webster was (as re port says) the first farmer who used seaweed as a fertilizer. He made the experiment on his farm at 230 HISTORICAL SKETCHES. Marshfield, and there is no doubt but that Farmer Phillips was the first to use it on his farm. It is very probable that to a certain degree the rich land of to day of the Phillips estate has resulted from the use of seaweed. Dr. G. H. Lodge purchased the "John's Field" of the heirs of Jonathan Phillips, in 1849, and there were fourteen signatures to the deed. The doctor built a fine house near the cove and surrounded it with beautiful lawns and ornaraental trees. A long and winding avenue points the way to the house, starting from Orient Street. The tall and bending trees meet overhead and make one think of passing through a tunnel in a forest, if such a thing could be. John D. Bates purchased the lot formerly owned by Nathaniel Martin, known as Cedar Clifl^s, Phillips Point. He built a pretty villa and lived in it many summers. Mr. Bates has stated that when he first carae to Swampscott sunimer visitors left their best carriages at horae for fear that the salt water might tarnish them. The estate is now owned by Mrs. Anna Lloyd Jeffries, wife of Colonel John Jeffries, and it is one of the pleasantest places at the Point. POEM BY THE LATE MISS BEERS. Miss Delia Beers, of Swampscott, who died March 17, 1884, at the age of twenty-eight years, was the author ofthe following lines, written on the occasion of her graduation at Salem Normal School : OF SWAMPSCOTT. 231 THE BASKET WEAVER. Down by the seashore, all alone, Sat weary little May, Weaving the long, lithe willow strips Into a basket gay, O, how her little body ached ! I^'or she had worked all day; And ho\v she longed to be somewhere To be at rest, for aye. She was so tired, so sick of work. Her life was full of sighs; And with her hand she dashed away The tears that filled her eyes. But now the sun is going down, In shadows is the lea; His golden beams shoot far across The blue, the murmuring sea. And one more bright than all the rest Is shining in her hair, And makes her little mournful face Look like a picture fair. Then how she wished, poor little girl. That she could climb afar Up to the heavenly city fair On such a golden bar. She thought perhaps the lovely cloud The gate of heaven might be, And if she could but open it She would the angels see. And as she looked at those bright scenes, Her dark blue eyes did close, Kor the great brightness dazzled them ; Soon she forget her woes. At length^ the' long, long weary day, In silence has passed by; The stars are peeping, one by one, From out the vaulted sky. 232 HISTORICAL SKETCHES. A breeze sprang up, the waters moaned And rolled in toward the shore; The little waves came near her feet, She did not heed them more. Her small bare feet drew up beneath The ragged gown she wore; The murmuring wave still nearer come, Still slept she, as before. And now the surging waves are near! Their roar her feelings calms ; And now they lift her poor frail form Up in their awful arms. Dear little May ! is there no hope — No saving power nigh? Oh, yes! thy loving Father 's near! You 'II see Him by and by. The cold blue waves are carrying thee On to the heavenly shore; No human aid can help thee now, Thy spirit longs to soar. The night at length has passed away, The sun brings in the day; No trace is seen on the lone shore Of tired little May. For thro' the golden gates she 's passed, Unto her home above; We know it opened to her knock, Because of her great love. Only a glance at life was hers — A life bereft of love; Only a life of shadows here — A life of rest above. CHAPTER XXI. THE MUDGE ESTATE. This historic place is justly the pride of Swamp scott. Approaching the village by King's Beach the visitor has on his right the sea, with Egg Rock and Nahant in the distance, and Black Will's Cliff near at hand. Directly in front is Monument Square, its granite shaft and ancient cannon telling of our honored heroes; and just beyond, its green lawn, its beautiful shrubbery, and its picturesque cottage, exposed hos- ' pitably to the eyes of all ; and giving promise of the beauty of the town, is the time-honored estate. Handed down through two hundred and fifty years from the Humphreys, it was a hundred years in the possession of the Burrill familj', who in 1799 deeded it to Robert Hooper, of Marblehead. When the deed was given seven persons named Burrill signed it, together with three others, Samuel Waldo acting as witness. The last-named gentleman afterwards went to Maine, and the town of "Waldo" was •named for him. In 1843, Mrs. W. Reed, deeded the farm, containing about one hundred and thirty acres to the late Hon. E. Redington Mudge, for the sum of 234 HISTORICAL SKETCHES eight thousand dollars, a property for which Mr. Mudge declined an offer of one hundred thousand dollars. The name of Mudge was originally written " Mugge," and can be traced back to the fourteenth century. E. R. Mudge was born in Orrington, Me., March 22, 181 2, and died in 1881, aged sixty-nine years. He married Caroline A. Patten, of Portland, Me., who died January 9, 1882. Mr. and Mrs. Mudge are buried in the garth at St. Stephen's Memorial Church at Lynn — this church having been erected by Mr. Mudge as a memorial to his children, Charles Redington and Fannie Olive. The idea which has gone abroad that there were tombs in the garth or in the basement is a false one, as no one will be buried there except the Mudge family, and the garth will be devoted to no other use. In early life Mr. Mudge was a merchant in Portiand, Me., and in 1840 he opened the St. Charles Hotel, New Orleans. He left New Orleans in 1843 and engaged in mercan tile pursuits, having his home in Swampscott. Upon taking charge ofthe St. Charles Hotel, Stephen Free man and his wife and two children were slaves, and Mr. Mudge gave $1500 for the family. On buying the " Reed" farm he took with him Freeman and his faraily, and gave them their freedom. Freeman re mained with him nearly eight years, when he left him to reside in Lynn, where he may still be found (1884). In 1863, Mr. Mudge deeded the old farm-house and about three acres of land to his daughter. Near the farm-house stands the famous elm tree which for over OF SWAMPSCOTT. 235 one hundred and fifty years has cast its pleasant shade over the house and grounds. "Paradise" road, which was opened by Mr. Mudge through his forest, where the first spring flowers are usually found, has been greatly enjoyed by the public, thanks to his kindness in allowing access thereto. The stone cottage called "Elmwood" was built with great care at a short distance from the farm house. Many of the fine forest trees on the lawn Mr. Mudge planted himself, and now, after a growth of forty years, they are a beautiful sight, and passers-by often bless the meraory of the man who by planting them made his estate a joy to others besides himself. " Elm wood" has a fine view of the ocean. The entrance from Burrill Street is by a shaded avenue, in whose trees Mr. Mudge took especial delight. A fountain is sometimes seen throwing up its spray in the sunlight and returning it upon the lawn with a musical sound. " While the birds are singing in the morning, And the myrtle and the ivy are in bloom." All who were acquainted with Mr. Mudge, or who know of the position of respect which he held in Swampscott, will be pleased to see the following ac count of his father, the Rev. Enoch Mudge, and of his noble bequest to the church of which he was a cora municant : Rev. Enoch Mudge, father of the late Hon. E. R. Mudge, was a pioneer Methodist preacher of the New England Conference, and a man of remark able originality and power. His educational advan- 236 HISTORICAL SKETCHES tages had been of a very limited character, as his early youth was passed in a Lynn shoemaker's shop, yet he everywhere attracted attention through his peculiar gifts in prayer and exhortation. In a volume entitled " Itinerant Preaching in the Early Days of Methodism," prepared from the journal of Mrs. Tucker, a contemporary of Rev. Mr. Mudge, the following interesting allusions to the gifted j'oung preacher occur: " One evening my husband and mj- self were invited to take tea at Mrs. Perry's, one of the family of Coraraodore O. H. Perry, the celebrated naval hero (this was at Newport, R. I., in 1829). Her mother, an aged lady, was present, and related the following incident of her first experience in listen ing to Methodist preaching, whicii was by this early pioneer of Methodisra in New England, who left his shoemaker's bench in Lynn, a mere boy, and sallied forth into the fields. Several of his first efforts were made in Newport, R. I., where his youth, his remark able talents, and his fervid piety attracted crowds to hear him. Mrs. Perry related that, being on her way to church one Sabbath morning, a friend raet her and said, ' Madam, why do n't you go to the Court House and hear the remarkable young preacher.? ' ' What is his name.?' inquired Mrs. Perry. ' I do n't know,' re plied her friend ; ' but this I do know, he is the most wonderful preacher I ever heard.' Mrs. Perry's curi osity being awakened, she went up to the Court House and found it completely filled. With difficulty obtaining a seat, she looked up at the pulpit and saw OF SWAMPSCOTT. 237 a little boy sitting there, but took little note of him, as she sat anxiously awaiting the preacher's appearance. What was her surprise, when this boy arose and com menced reading a hymn ! She was still more sur prised when he knelt and made the raost fervent and striking prayer she ever listened to. When he com menced speaking she observed that he used no notes. Now she began to tremble for him, thinking the little boy would surely break down ; but he went on with his discourse, and as he advanced, his flow of lan guage, his knowledge of divine things, and his fervid eloquence, so unlike anything she had ever heard before, astonished not only her, but every one in the house. That wonderful boy so impressed her that for many long years his appearance and remarkable ser mon was fixed in her memory. On one occasion Brother Mudge was visiting a friend's house where a large company had assembled, including a very pom pous lady whose husband was very proud of his con nection with Harvard. She had very patronizingly condescended to notice the young preacher, and with rather a consequential air inquired of him, ' At what college did you take your degree, sir.?' Brother Mudge replied, with great simplicity of manner, ' I took my degree, raadam, at my father's shoemaker's bench in Lynn.' The lady seemed not a little sur prised and confounded, but the corapany appreciated the truthful good sense of the young preacher." St. Stephen's Memorial Church, situated at the cor ner of South Common and Blossom Streets in Lynn, 238 HISTORICAL SKETCHES of which the Rev. Louis DeCormis is rector, is one of the finest specimens of church architecture in the country. Its walls are built of a reddish granite rubble, quarried on the estate of Hon. E. R. Mudge, at Swampscott, with facings and angles of red brick, and weatherings and carvings of Nova Scotia free stone. The plan of the church proper is in the form of a Latin cross, the apse facing the east ; but the spaces in the angles of this cross are covered by aisle roofs, so that the whole area is included in the body of the building, thus presenting a rectangular audi torium sixty-eight feet from nortii to south, and ninety feet from the west wall to the arch of the apse. The nave and transepts are severally forty feet wide, and the latter are twelve and a half feet deep, the angles of the central crossing being marked by four clustered stone piers, from the capitals of which spring open timber trusses of Georgia pine, across nave and tran septs, and diagonally, supporting the roof, which is visible in its structure to the apex. The organ which was built from specifications drawn by E. K. Weston, organist of the church, is a model in every particular. Over the main entrance of the porch is carved in the arch the words " That thy power, thj' glory, and the mightiness of thy kingdora might be known unto men." In the porch over an inscribed slab surmounted by a bracket is the stone presented by St. Margaret's Church, of King's Lynn, England. The edifice was erected by the late Hon. Enoch MUDGE MEMORIAL EPISCOPAI. CHURCH, LYNN. OF SWAMPSCOTT. 239 Redington Mudge as a memorial to two of his chil dren — Charles Redington, who was killed at Gettys burg, and Fannie Olive, who died about two years ago — the entire expense being borne by him. He was deeply interested in the construction of the church, personally inspecting each step taken in the progress toward completion, and made the last pur chase of materials needed for the furnishing of the structure only a few hours before his death, which occurred Saturdaj', October i, 1883. Mr. Mudge's artistic taste and wide experiences added to his devout attachment to the church of which he was so prorainent a member, led him to erect this costly and enduring memorial, and his ideas have been ably seconded by the architects. It is a fact of sad interest that the first service held in the church was the funeral of its generous donor. Among the altar furnishings are a massive solid gold communion service made to order in England, and a beautiful Spanish altar cloth five hundred years old. We cannot better bring these historical sketches tO a close than by noting what will be valuable historical material for some distant generation, namely, the con tents of the box deposited under the corner stone of the church. The stone has sculptured on its west face a cross, and on its northern face the date 1880. The box is of copper, hermetically sealed, contains the Bible and prayer-book formerly used by Charles Redington Mudge and Fanny Olive Mudge ; a me morial of the. Mudge family in the United States ; in 240 HISTORICAL SKETCHES meraoriara of Charles Redington Mudge, Lieutenant Colonel, Second Massachusetts Infantry, born in New York, October 2, 1839, killed at Gettysburg, July 3, 1863 ; names ofthe standing committee ofthe diocese of Massachusetts ; names of delegates to the General Convention of the Protestant Episcopal Church of 1880 ; roll of parchment with the naraes of the officers of St. Stephen's Church ; historical sketch of the Church Aid Society of Lynn ; programme of the Easter festival of the Sunday School of St. Stephen's ; silver dollar of the United States of the latest coinage ; journal of the diocesan convention of 1879 ; church almanac of 1880; copies of all the Boston and Lynn newspapers of latest dates ; a copper plate bearing the inscription : "May 19, 1880. "This church, named in honor of St. Stephen, the martyr, the corner stone of which is this day laid by Benjamin Henry Paddock, D.D., bishop of Massachusetts, is to be erected by Enoch Redington Mudge as a thank offering to Alraighty God, to be consecrated to the glory of God, and in raeraory of Charles Redington and Fanny Olive, children of Enoch Redington Mudge. The fee of this land and church buildings thereon is held by the trustees of donations to the Protestant Episcopal Church in the diocese of Massachusetts. The deed of trust rehearses that St. Stephen's parish in the City of Lynn, Essex County, Massachusetts, shall have the use of these OF SWAMPSCOTT. 241 buildings in conformity with the rites, ceremonies, usages and canons of the branch ofthe Holj' Catholic Church, known in law as the Protestant Episcopal Church in the United States of America. Architects of this Church, Messrs. Ware & Van Brunt of Bos ton." * P' ' 'C ¦^ ' I I . i' ,33 YALE UNIVERSITY 139002 00 2956689.b