%^

A
TOUR FROM
GIBRALTAR T O
TANGIER, SALLEE, MOGODORE,
SANTA CRUZ, TARUDANTj
AND Tl II E N C E,
OVER MOUNT ATLAS,
T O
MOROCCO:
INCLUDING A PARTICULAR ACCOUNT OF THE
ROYAL H. A R E M, lie.

By WILLIAM LEMPRIERE, Surgeon.

The SECOND EDITION,
WITH ADDITIONS AN» CORRECJ^O^sF

LONDON:
PRINTED FOR J. WALTER, CHARING-CRCSS;
AND SOL'D BY J. JOHNSON, ST. PAUL'S CHURCII-YAR1);
AND J. SEWELL, CORNHILL.

M.DCC.XCin.

t ©
HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS
PRINCE EDWARD.
S I R,
^T^HE diftinguifhed honour which.
your Royal Highness has
been pleafed to confer upon me^
by taking under your auguft pro-
te&ion the firft Eflay of a young
Author, is a fingular inftance of
the benevolence and liberality of
your Royal Highness's difpofition
and will ever command my warmeft:
acknowledgments. That your Royal Highness may
enjoy an uninterrupted courfe of
A 2 health

health and profperity, and long
continue a bleffing to the Britifh
Nation, and an honour to the fer-
vice, is the lincere wiih of
Your Royal Highness's
Mod grateful 'fervant,
WILLIAM LEMPRIERE.

N

M E

OP THE

SUBSCRIBERS.

H

IS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE DUKE
OF CLARENCE,
HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE
EDWARD.

A.
Capt. Abbot, Royal Artillery.
William Adair, Efq. Surgeon-
Major, Gibraltar, 2 copies.
Alexander Adair, Efq. Pall-
Mali.
Mr. A. Adams, Gibraltar.
Mr. C. E. Allen, Lilbon.
Mr. G. Allen, Lifbon.
Amicable Society at Lancafter.
Mr. Anderfon, Gibraltar, 2 co
pies.
Enfign Anderfon, 50th Regi
ment.
Lieutenant W. H. Anderfon,
Marines.
John Lewis Andre, Efq.
Rev. Townfend Andrews, High-
gate.
Mr. Angelo, Carlifle Street,
Soho.
Mr. H. Angelo, Carlifle Street,
Soho.
Anonymous.
Mr. E, Archbold, Gibraltar.

Capt. Armftrong, nth Regi
ment of Foot, 3 copies.
Thomas Atkinfon, Efq. Rot
terdam.
Mr. W. Atkinfon, Cannon
Street.
Enfign Aylmer, nth Regiment
of Foot, 3 copies. B.
Right Hon. Lord Blayney.
Sir Robert Boyd, K. B.
Sir Theophilus Biddulph, Bart
Lady Biddulph.
Mrs. Backhoufe, Bedford.
Dr. Baillie, Great' Windmill
Street.
Mifs Baker, 2 copies.
Mr. Baker, Surgeon, Lifbon.
Rev. Dr. Bandinel, Netherburys
Dorfetftrire.
Mrs. Bandinel.
Mrs. E. Bandinel, Jerfey.
Mr. Banks, Highgate.
Mifs Banks, Highgate.
Thomas Bangham, Efq.
,a' Daniel

SUBSCRIBERS.

Daniel Barnard, Efq. London.
Mr. C. Barrell, Jun. Hart
Street, Mark Lane-
Mr. Barthrop, Surgeon, Rei-
gate, Surrey.
Mr. Barlow, Gibraltar, 2 copies.
Mr. Baynes, Royal Engineers,
3 copies.
Capt. Baynes, 2d, or Queen's
Regiment of Foot.
Lieut. Baynes, 1 ith Regiment
of Foot, 3 copies.
Lieut. Baynes, 33d Regiment.
 Baynes, Efq.
Mr. Beaumont, 32d Regiment.
Major Bennet, zd Battalion
Royals.
Enfign Belford, 18th, or Royal
Irifli.
Mr. J. Berthon, Lifbon.
Mrs. Berthon, Clapton, 4 copies.
Mrs. E. Beuzville, Jerfey.
Col. Biddulph.
Mifs Biddulph.
Mifs E. Biddulph.
Mifs C. Biddulph.
'Mr. T. Billinga, Lifbon.
Jinfign Bickford, 25th Regi
ment.
Charles Birkhead, Efq. Reigate,
Surrey.
Mr. Jofeph Bird, London.
Lieut. Bird.zd Battalion Royals.
Thomas Bifhop, Efq. Hayes,
Middlefex.
Dr. Bifhop, 2d, or Queen's Re
giment of Foot.
Mr. Jof. Bland.
Webfter Blount, Efq. Dutch
Conful General, Tangier.
Mrs. Bletfoe, Bedford.
William Blizard, Efq. Lime
Street.
Mr, H. Bolton, Gibraltar.

Mr. T. Bolton, Gibraltar
Capt. Booth, 3zd Regiment',
Mr. D. Bowden, Lifbon.
Mr. N. Bowden, Lifbon.
Rev. Mr. Bowen.
Lieut. Briggs, 25th Regiment..
Lieut. Brown, 59th Regiment.
Lieut. W. Brown, Royal Navy.
Mr. J. Brown, St. Swithin's
Lane.
Mr. Lewis Brohier, Jerfey.
Mr. A. Brownlie, Lilbon.
Lieut. Buchannan, 32d Regi
ment.
Mrs. Bulkley, Uxbridge, Midr
dlefex.
Mr. C. Buller, Royal Navy.
Lieut. Bunbury, 3 2d Regiment.
Capt. Burroes, 7th, or Royal
Fuzileers.
Enfign Burflem, nth Regi
ment of Foot, 3 copies.
Capt. Bufhy, 25 th Regiment.
Mr. Butler, Oxford Court,
London.
Henry Byne, Efq. Carfhalton,
Stii-icy.
Enfign ilyron, 1 8th, or P.oyal
I,i:h. '

Right Hon. Countefs of Char-
lemont.
Right Hon. Vifcount-efs Crer
rnorne.
Hon. Mr. Chetwynd,
Hon. Mifs Chetwynd.
Robert Calvert, Efq. Londoa,
Charles Calvert, Efq. London.
Capt. Duncan Campbell, 2d
Battalion Royals.
Capt. Archibald Campbeir, zd
Battalion Royals.
Capt. Robert Campbell. Lieut.

SUBSCRIBERS.

ia

Lieut. Neil Campbell, zd Bat
talion Royals.
Lieut. Campbell, 25th Regi
ment.
Enfign Robert Campbell, 2d
Battalion Royals.
Lieut. Campbell, Royal Navy.
James Campbell, Efq. London.
Dr. Cantley.
Enfign Carnegie, 59th Regi
ment.
Capt. Carter, 3 2d Regiment.
Mr. Ifaac Carey, Guernfey.
Mr. N. Carey, Guernfey".
Mr, John Carthey, Royal Navy.
Tvlrs. Cartell, Clapham, 2 copies.
Lieut. Caulfield, nth Regiment
of Foot, 3 copies.
Mr. T. G. Caulfield, Royal
Navy. ,
Mr. Cavallo, Gibraltar.
Lieut. Chamney, 25th Regi
ment.
3- Champion, Efq. Broad Street.
Mifs Chambers.
Lieut. Chambers, 2d, or Queen's
Regiment of Foot.
R. Chrillie, Efq. Auftin Friars.
 Claffeu, Efq. Danifh Con-
ful General, Tangier.
Mr. Anthony Clarke, Stock Ex
change.
Mr. T. Clarke, Tower Dock.
Capt. ClifFe, 7th, or Royal Fu
zileers.
Mifs Clothier.
Major Cochran, 2d Battalion
Royals.
Enfign W. Cochrane, 2d Batta
lion Royals.
Lieut. Codrington, Royal Navy.
Mr. Jofeph Coetho,. Gibraltar,
2 copies.
Dr,. Cogan, Rotterdam,

Mrs. Cogan, Rotterdam.
Enfign Colman, 5 2d Regiment.
Mr. J. Cokfman, Lifbon.
Lieut. Concannon, Royal Artil
lery.
Capt. Conolly, 1 8th, or Royal
Irifh.
Mrs. Mary Conyers, Warwick-
ihire.
Mrs. Conway, Highgate.
Mr. G. Cooper, Gibraltar.
Mr. M. Cooper, Jun. Gibraltar.
Mrs. Cornwall, Portland Place,
2 copies.
Mifs Corrie, Hoddefdon.
Mr. A. Court.
Mr. W. Court.
Mr. Cculfon, Thames Street.
Capt. Coutts, Marines,
Mr. Crane, Budge Row.
Rev. John Crawford, M. A.
Elverton, Derbyshire.
Capt. Crawford, 2d or Queen's
Reg. of Dragoon Guards.
Rev. Herbert Croft.
Lieut. Crozier, Royal Artillery.
Mr. Crokatt.
Enfign Crunden, nth Regi
ment of Foot,
William Culme, Efq. Tothill,
Devojifhire.
Thomas Curry, Jun, Efq. Go£
port. £>.
Chevalier D'Angelo.
Sir John De la Pole, Bart.
 Dalrymple, E{q-
Mr. Darby, Lime Street.
Mr. W. Davenport, Lifbon.
Mrs. D'Auvergne, Falmouth.
Mifs D'Auvergne, Jerfey.
Lieut. Dawfon, 2d, or Queen's
Regiment of Foot.
as Mf,

SUBSCRIBERS.

Mr. John Dawes, King Street,
St. James's.
Mr. De Drufma, Fowlk's Build
ings.
Mrs. De Drufma, Fowlk's
Buildings.
Phil. De Carteret, Efq. Jerfey.
Mr. Phil. De Carteret,* Jun. jer
fey.
J. P. De Gruchy, Efq. London'
Charles De la Garde, Efq-
Jerfey.
Mr. Peter De Jerfey, Guernfey.
Mr. John De Veulle, Jerfey.
Mr. T. F. Depenaw, Lifbon.
Lieut. Col. Defpard, 7th, or
Royal Fuzileers.
Lieut. Deftropp, Marines.
Mrs. Deves, Highgate.
Lieut. Dewell, 2d, or Queen's
Regiment of Foot.
Mr. Deze, Gibraltar.
Richard Dickinfon, Efq.
Lieut.Dickins,Royal Engineers.
Thomas Dickfon, Efq. South
ampton.
Lieut. Col. Don, 5QthRegiment.
Enfign Donald, 68th Regiment.
Capt. Douglafs, 11th Regi
ment of Foot, 3 copies.
Enfign Douglafs, nth Regi
ment pf Foot, 3 copies.
Mr Dowling, Royal Navy.
Capt. Drinkwater, zd Battalion
Royals.
Mrs. Duan?, Twickenham.
Enfign Duer, 25th R.-giment.
Jame? Luff, Efq. fiatifh Con-
ful, Cadiz, 6 ccpi:s.
Rev. Dr. Duma.-efqu.;.
Rev. C. Dumaref-,ae, Jerfey.
Mr. W. Dumart/^ac, jerfey.
Thomas' Durell, Efq. South
ampton.

J. T. Durell, Efq. Jerfey, 3
copies.
Mifs Jane Durell, Jerfey.
Mr. Dutton, Stoke Newington.
Lieut. Dyer, 7th, or Royal
Fuzileers. E.
Thomas Eames, Efq.
Rev. Mr. Eaton, St. Ann's,
Soho.
Mr. Ede,
Major Edgar, 25th Regiment.
Col. Edmefton, 50th Regiment.
Lieut. Edwards, 2d, or Queen's
Regiment of Foot.
Mr. John Edwards, Lifbon.
Enfign Elliot, 25 th Regiment;
Mr. James Elmfley, Gibraltar.
John Enflie, Efq. Rotterdam.
CapuErfkine, 50th Regiment.
Capt. Efpinaffe, nth Regiment
of Foot, 3 copies.
Major Efle, 68th Regiment, 3
copies.
Capt. Evelegh, Invalids, Jerfey.
Lieut. Evelegh, 2d, or Queen's
Regiment of Foot.
Lieut, Col. Eyre, Royal Artil
lery.
Enfign Eyre, nth Regiment of
Foot, 3 copies.
Mr. Jabez Exfhaw. F.
Hon. Capt. Forbes, Royal Navy.
Hon. Mrs. Forward, Dublin.
Capt. Far.court, PvOyal Navy.
Col. Farrington, Royal Artillery.
Jonathan Fearnfide, Efq.
Mr. Herman Ficke, Lifbon.
Edward Fiott, Efq. Jerfey.
John Fiott, Efq. London.
Edward Fiott, Efq. Gpfport.
Mr. John Fiott, Jerfey. Mrs.

SUBSCRIBERS.

Mrs. Nicholas Fiott, Jerfey.
Lieut. Fitzgerald, nth Regi
ment of Foot, 3 copies.
Mr. Fitzgerald, 68th Regiment.
Mr. Fitzmaurice, Royal Navy.
Mr. W. Fleming, 25th Regi
ment.
Mr. D. Fleming, 25 th Regi
ment.
Capt. Forbes, 18th, or Royal
Irifh.
Capt. Forch, 2d, or Queen's
Regiment of Foot, 2 copies.
Rev. Mr. Forfter, Richmond,
Surrey.
Mr. P. French, Iflington.
Mr. V. French, Lifbon.
Capt. Fycrs, Royal Engineers.

Hon. Mrs. Goulbourn.
Rev. Mr. Gadfby, Bedford.
Mrs. Catharine Galabin.
Mrs. Ann Gardner, Park Street,
Grofvenor Square.
Mr. John Garnault, Lifbon.
Mifs Garnault, Rotterdam.
Mr, Peter Garnault, Batavia.
Capt. Garftin, Royal Artillery.
Lieut. Garfide, 59th Regiment.
Philip Gavey, Efq. London.
Thomas Gavino, Efq. Dutch
Conful, Gibraltar.
Dr. Gerand, King's College,
Aberdeen.
Mrs. Gibfon, Highgate.
Mr. David Giefe, Lifbon.
Enfign Gifford, 50th Regiment.
Mr. Gothfried Giefler, Lifbon.
Mr. Gilfillan, 1 8th, or Royal
Irifh, 2 copies.
Sam. Gillam, Efq.
William Gill, Efq,

Mr. D. Gillen, Gibraltar.
Mr. W. Gliflbn, Lifbon.
Mr. Gilfon, Tower Dock.
Lieut. Col. Glover, nthRegir
ment of Foot, 3 copies.
Mr. W. Goad, Tower Royal. ¦
Enfign Godfrey, 3 2d Regi
ment.
Mr. G. Goldfmith, Leman
Street.
Mr. A. Goldfmith, Leman
Street.
Mr. B. Goldfmith, Stamford
Hill.
Mr. T. GoodaU, Lifbon.
Mr. Mathew Gofl'et, Jerfey.
Mr. Mathew Goffer, Jun.
Jerfey.
Mr. Garret Gould, Lifbon.
Dr. Graham, 2d Battalion Roy
als,
Capt. Graves, Royal Navy.
Mr. Grant, 59th Regiment.
Richard Gray, Efq.
Mr. Gray, Billiter Square.
Mrs. Gregg, Highgate.
Rev. Dr. Gregory, Bedford
Row.
Mrs. Gregory, Woloop, Here-
fordfhire.
Mr. Green, Bedford.
Mr. Green, Gibraltar.
Mr. B. H. Green, Lifbon.
Mr. T. Greenaway, Jun. Bi-?
fhopfgate Street.
William Greenwood, Efq.
William Grey, Efq. Alicant.
Mifs Grant.
Mifs C. Grant.
Mifs L. Grant.
Mrs. Grubb, Uxbridge, Mid-
dlefex.
Mr. F. Gybbon, Royal Navy.
33 H. Sir

VI

SUBSCRIBERS.

H.
Sir Ifaac Heard, Knt. Garter
Principal King of Arms.
Capt. Hadden, nth Regiment
of Foot, 3 copies.
Mr. R. W. Hake, Lifbon.
Mr. H. O. Hall, Gracechurch
Street.
Mr. James Hall, Poultry.
Mrs. Halle c, Highgate.
Mr. HalHlay, Royal Navy.
Lieut. Hale, 2d, or Queen's
Regiment of Foot.
William Hamerton, Efq. Finch-
ley, 2 copies.
Major Hamilton, 1 8th, or Roy
al Irifh.
Lieut. Hamilton, 68th Regi
ment.
Arthur Hammond, Efq. Hamp-
ftead, Middlefex.
Mrs. Hammond, Hampftead.
Mrs. Sarah Hammond, Hamp
ftead.
Charles Hilgrove Hammond,
Efq. Trinity College, Ox
ford.
Arthur Atherley Hammond, Efq.
St. John's College, Oxford.
James Hammond, Efq. Jerfey.
Mr. Thomas Hammond, Jerfey.
Mrs. J. L. Hammond, Jerfey.
Capt. Harding, Royal Artillery,
Rev. Mr. Harpur, Uxbridge,
Middlefex.
Mrs. Harwood, Iflington, 3
copies.
E. C. Haftopp, Efq. Merriwell,
Warwickshire.
Mrs. Haftopp, Merriwell, War-
wickfhire.
Enfign Haflewood, 50th Regi
ment.
Lieut. Haven, 50th Regiment.

Mrs. J. Hawkers, Plymouth.
Mr. Hazleton, 7 th, or Royal
Fuzileers.
Mr. James Heinekin, St. He
len's, London.
Major Hely, 1 1 th Regiment of
Foot, 3 copies.
Mifs Hendrick, Dublin.
Mrs. Henfhaw, Effex.
Enfign Heron, nth Regiment
of Foot, 3 copies.
Lieut. Hewan, 25th Regiment.
Edmund Higginfon, Efq. Ux
bridge, Middlefex.
Robert Higginfon, Efq. Ux-.
bridge.
W. Higginfon, Efq. Bernard
Street.
Major Higginfon, 50th Regi
ment.
Mr. George Hilgrove, Jerfey.
Lieut. Hilgrove, Royal Navy.
Clement Hilgrove, Efq. South
ampton.
Lieut. Hill, 50th Regiment.
Lieut. Hill, 68th Regiment.
Mrs. Hill, Dover.
Mrs. Hinchliffe, Woodftock
Street.
Enfign Hinde, 25th Regiment.
Mr. N. Flingfton, Exeter.
Rev. Mr. Hinton, Hayes, Mid
dlefex.
Mifs Hinton, Hayes, Middlefex.
Enfign Hinuber, 68th Regi
ment.
W. Hodges, Efq. Highgate.
Rev. H. Homer, Burbury, War-
wickfhire.
Mr. John Holnet, Lifbon.
Lieut. Hope, 18th, or Royal
Irifh.
John Holier, Efq. Great George
Street. W. Holies,

SUBSCRIBERS.

va

W.Hofier, Efq*
Mr. Howard.
Mrs. Howard.
Mifs Howard.
Mr. Howitt.
Rev. Mr. Hughes, Gibraltar.
Mr. Hurfman, Royal Navy.
Mr. H. Huddy ,Crutchcd Friars.
Lieut. Hurly, 59th Regiment.
I.
Mr. Randolph Jackfon, Lon
don.
Mr. J. Jackfon, Royal Navy.
Mr. J. F. Jarchaw, Lifixin.
Mr. Thomas Jacobfon, Lifbon.
Lieur. Jardine, Marines.
Mr. Francis Iken, Lifbon.
Mr. B. Illius, Lifbon.
Lieut. Imrie, 2d Battalion Roy
als.
Mifs Jones, Charter Houfe
Square.
Mr. Jones, Fifh Street Hill,
2 copies.
Enfign Ironfide, 68th Regi
ment.
Lieut. James Irwin, Royal
Navy.

John L„ Kaye, Efq. 10th Re
giment of Light Dragoons.
Dr. Kearney, Lifbon.
Mrs. Kearton, Highgate.
Lieut. Kelly, 3 2d Regiment.
Mr. Jofeph Kenyon, Gibraltar.
George Ker, Efq. Grofvenor
Square.
Lieut. Ker, 68th Regiment.
Lieut. Kerfterman, Royal En
gineers.
Mr. Klunder, Jun. Hamburgh,
2 copisf.

Lieut. Knight, nth Regiment
of Foot.
W. C. Knowlys, Efq.
Mr. J. T. Kofter, Lifbon.
L.
Hon. William Lumley, 10th
Regiment of Light Dragoons.
Robert Ladbrooke, Efq. Port
land Place.
Mrs. Lambert, Ludgate Hill.
John Lane, Efq. Hiilingdon,
Middlefex.
Capt. Lane, 3 2d Regiment.
Mr. Chriftopher Lance, Gould
Square.
Mr. Lara, Surgeon to the Por-
tuguefe Hofpital, London.
Mr. L. Laffence, Lifbon.
Mr. Leirier, Jerfey.
George Lempriere, Efq. High
land Houfe, Effex.
James Amice Lempriere, Efq.
Jerfey.
John Lempriere, Efq. Britifh
Confnl at Faro.
Mr. G. Lempriere, Royal Navy.
Mrs. Lempriere, Highgate.
Mr. T. Lermitte, Aldgate.
Mr. Peter Le Pelley, Guernfey.
Capt. L'Eftrange, 7th, or Roy
al Fuzileers.
Mifs Lewis, Scot's Yard, Bufh
Lane.
T. Lewis, Efq. Freeman's Court,
London.
Mr. j. R. Lindt, Lifbon.
Mr. James Little, Lifbon.
Robert Livie, Efq. London.
Rev. Henry Lord, Merchant
Taylors' School.
Dr. Lowe, 50th Regiment.
Enfign Lowe, 50th Regiment.
Lieut. Lucas, 68th Regiment.
a j. Jom?

Vill

SUBSCRIBERS.

John Ludford, Efq. Anfley
Hall, Warwickfhire.
Mifs Ludford, Camphill, War
wickfhire.
Mifs F. Ludford.
Col. Lumfdaine, 2d Battalion
Royals, 3 copies.
JohnLuxford, Efq. Winchelfea,
Suffex.
Henry Lynch, Efq. Danifh
Conful, Gibraltar.
Mr. C. Lyne, Lifbon.
Mr. J. Lyne, Lifbon,
Mrs. Lyfons, Hempftead, Glou-
cefterfhire.
Lieut. Lyfter, 50th Regiment.
M.
Hon. Richard Macdonald, 10th
Regiment of [Light Dra
goons.
Hon. Robert Meade, zd Batta
lion Royals.
J. M.Matra, Efq. Britifh Conful
General, Tangier, 6 copies.
Lieut. Mackenfie, zd Battalion
Royals,
Mr. Mackie, zd Battalion
Royals.
Dr. Macdonald, 1 ith Regiment
of Foot, 3 copies.
Lieut. M'Dowell, 7th, or Royal
Fuzileers.
Capt. M'Clean, 68th Regiment.
Lieut. M'Clean, 50th Regiment,
Enfign M'Farlane, 59th Regi
ment.
Mr. Macfarlane, Walthamftow.
.  M'Kernies, Efq. London.
Mr. James M'Andrew, Lifbon.
Mr. F. M. M'Carthey, Lifbon.
Mr. John M'Mahon, Lifbon.
Dr. Maclaurin, London.
Mj* Mackintoftu

Mrs. Maifter.
Lieut. Maitland, 2d, or Queen's
Regiment of Foot.
Mifs Malliet, Gerard Street,
Soho.
Dr. Manningham.
Mr. Peter Mauger, Jerfey.
Capt. Manley, Royal Artil
lery.
Enfign Mansfield, 59th Regi
ment.
Francis Marett, Efq. Jerfey.
Mr. Anthony Marchant, Abing
don Street.
Mr. Marriott, Rathbone Place.-
Mr. Martine, Gibraltar,
Daniel Mathew, Efq.
Mr. W. Mattier, Lifbon.
Major Mawby, 18th, or Royal
Irifh,
Enfign Maxwell, 68th Regi
ment.
Enfign Maxwell, 1 8th, or Royal
Irifh.
Mr. Maxwell, Gibraltar.
Jof. May, Efq.
Mr. Richard Meade, Watling
Street.
Francis Melville, Efq. Amfter-
dam.
Mr. Melville, Royal Navy.
Mifs Mercer, Highgate.
Mifs E, Mercer, Highgate.
Mr. Merrick, zd, or Queen's
Regiment of Foot.
Mr. Methman, Gibraltar, 2
copies.
Charles Mills, Efq. London.
Rev. Mr. Mills, Burford, War
wickfhire.
Mrs. Mills.
JohnMinier, Efq.
Capt. Moncrief. nth Regi»
jnent of Foot, 3 copies. Lieut,

SUBSCRIBERS.

ix

Lieut Moneypenny, 68th Re
giment;
Capt. Montrefor, i8th, or
Royal Irifh.
Lieut. Montrefor, i8th, or
Royal Irifh.
Lieut. Moore, nth Regiment
of Foot, 3 copies.
Mr. Ofmond Mordaunt, Lifbon.
James Morgan, Efq.
Mr. W. Morgan, Lifbon.
John Morrifon, Efq. Gibraltar,
z copies.
Mrs. Morland.
Mr. H. J. Morley, Lifbon.
Col. Morfe, Royal Engineers.
Mrs. Morfe.
Charles Murray, Efq. Conful
General, Madeira.
Enfign Muter, nth Regiment
of Foot, 3 copies. N.
Sir Roger Newdigate, Bart.
Lady Newdigate.
Mr. W. Nicol, Royal Navy.
Mr. James Niven, Gibraltar.
Capt. Northey, 3 2d Regiment.
Mrs. Northey.
Jofeph Nutt, Efq. Broad Street
Buildings. O-
Right Hon. Henrietta Frances
O'Neill.
Sir William Oglander, Bart.
Major General O'Hara.
Lieut. Ogilvie, 50th Reginient.
Capt. O'Meara, 68th Regiment.
Mr. Frederick Oonu Lifbon.
Mr. Orange, Swan Street, Lon
don.
Mifs Ofborne, Hanover Square.
JLieut. Ofwald, 7th, or Royal
Fuzileers.

Rev. H. B. Owen, M. A. St.
Olave's, Hart Street, 3 co
pies.

Lady Porten.
Vice- Admiral Peyton.
Major-General Pifton.
Capt. Edino Paddock, Jerfey,
Mr. Palmer, Royal Navy.
Mr. Hugh Parker, Lifbon.
Mr. John Parmenter, Lifbon.
Mr. H. Parnell, Spital Fields.
 Partridge, Efq.
Mr. Charles Pafley, Lifbon.
Mr. W. Pearce, St. Swithin's
Lane.
Mailer Pearce, D».
Capt. Pell, 3 copies.
Mr. F. Penwarne, Lifbon.
Mr. J. Penwarne, Lifbon.
Mrs. Pereira, Clapton.
Mr. James Philips, Lifbon.
Lieut. Philpot, zd, or Queen's
Regiment of Foot.
Col. Phipps, Royal Engineers.
Lieut. Phipps, Royal Engi
neers.
Mr. Pickles, Vine Street, Pic
cadilly.
Lieut. Pierrpont, Royal Navy.
Lieut. Pigot, 2d Battalion Roy
als.
Lieut. Pigot, 7th, or Royal Fu
zileers.
Thomas Pipon, Efq. Jerfey, 2
copies.
Thomas Pipon, Efq. Lieut. Bai
liff, Jerfey.
Mr. Jofhua Pipon, Jerfey.
Mr. James Pipon, Jerfey.
Capt. Pitt, 10th Regiment of
Light Dragoons.
Mrs. Pocock, Weymouth Street.
Mifs Pocock, Weymouth Street. Mifs

SUBSCRIBERS.

Mifs Elizabeth Pocock, Wey
mouth Street.
Mr. John Poingdeftre, Jerfey.
Capt. James Poingdeftre, Lon
don.
William Pollock, Efq. *
William Ponfonby, Efq. Ire
land.
John Porker, Efq. Bank Build
ings.
Mr. F. Porral, Gibraltar.
Capt. Potts, 68th Regiment.
Lieut. Powell, 18 th, or Royal
Irifh.
Mr. Richard Power, Lifbon.
Lieut. Prevoft, 7th, or Royal
Fuzileers.
Charles Price, Efq. Cartagena,
Spain.
Mf. Price, Chancery Lane.
Lieut. W. Purvis, Royal Navy.

Lieut. Rainy, 18th, or Royal
Irifh.
Capt. Rait, 2d or Queen's Re
giment of Foot.
W. M. Raikes, Efq. Broad
Street Buildings.
John Raleigh, Efq. Gibraltar.
Lieut. Raleigh, nth Regiment
of Foot, 3 copies.
Enfign Raleigh, zd, or Queen's
Regiment of Foot.
Lieut. Ramfay, Royal Artillery.
Enfign Ramfay, 2d, or Queen's
Regiment of Foot, 2 copies.
Lieut. Reeves, 2d Battalion
Royals.
Lieut. Reynett, 7th, or Royal
Fuzileers.
Mrs. Reynolds, Hadley, Mid
dlefex.
Mr. George Rice, Lifbon.

Captain Richardfon, 18th, or
Royal Iriih.
Mr. T. Richmond, Gibraltar.
Capt. Riddel, 3 2d Regiment.
Charles Edward Eippington,
Efq. Armington Hall, War-
wickfhire.
Mr. H. E. Roberts, Lifbon.
Philip Robin, Efq. Jerfey.
Mr. John Robin, Jerfey.
M. P. Robinfon, Whitechapel,
Mrs. Rogers, Efcot, Middlefex.
Mr. P. Ronaldfon, Gibraltar.
Major Rofe, 50th Regiment.
Lieut. Rofs, 25th Regiment,
Enfign Rofs, 25th Regiments
Mr. J. Rofs, Gibraltar.
Mr. A. Rofs, Gibraltar.
Mr. Paul Rouffac, Lifbon.
Mrs. Rowe.
Capt. Rowe, 50th Regiment.
Lieut. Rowley, 68th Regiment.
Capt. Rudfdale, 11th Regiment
of Foot 3 copies.
 Rufli, Efq.
Mr. J. H- Rump, Lifbon.
Mr. John Ruffe], London,

Right Hon. Countefs of Strath
more.
Eton. Capt. Chetwynd Staple,
ton, 2d, or Queen's Regi
ment of Foot.
Hon. Mrs. Chetwynd Staple-
ton.
Hon. Richard St. Leger, Ire
land.
Hon. Mrs. St. Leger.
Sir Richard Bligh St. George,
Bart.
Lieut. Gen. F. Smith, 3 copies.
Mrs. Saltenftall, Hiilingdon,
Middlefex.
Mr*

•SUBSCRIBERS.

Mr. Salter, 1 1 th Regiment of
Foot, 2 copies.
Rev. John Sandys, Curfol, Bed
ford (hire.
Mrs. Sandys, Netherfole, Bed-
fordfhire.
Mifs Sandys, Netherfole.
Mr. Gerard Sant, Lifbon.
Capt. Saumarez, 7th, or Royal
Fuzileers.
Major Schaw, 68th Regiment.
Capt^Scott, 2d Battalion Roy
als.
Mrs. Scott, Wolfton, Warwick-
fhire.
Lieut. Scott, 3zd Regiment.
Mr. Scriven, Covent Garden,
Capt. Sebright, 18th, or Royal
Irifh.
Mr. R. Sharp, Navy Yard,
Gibraltar.
Lieut. Sheldrake, Royal Artil
lery.
Mrs. Shiffner, Weymouth Street.
Mr. W. Shirley, Royal Navy.
Lieut. Shrapnell, Royal Ar
tillery.
Mrs. Shuckburg, Berton, War
wickshire.
Capt. Shuttleworth, 7th, or
Royal Fuzileers.
Lieut. Shuttleworth, 7th, or
Royal Fuzileers.
Mrs. Simeon, Red Lion Square.
Mr. A. Simpfon, Gibraltar, 2
copies.
Lieut. Sirr, 68th Regiment.
Lieut. Sirie, nth Regiment of
Foot.
Lieut. Skyring, Royal Artillery.
Mr. Robert Slack, Lifbon.
Capt. Slade, 10th Regiment Of
Light Dragoons.
Lieut. Smart, Royal Engineers*
-Mr, Smart, Royal Engineers.

John Smee, Efq.
Capt. John Smith, Royal Ar
tillery.
Capt. Charles Smith, Royal
Artillery.
Capt. Smith, 25th Regiment,
Lieut. Smith, 7 th, or Royal
Fuzileers.
Mr. Smith, Artillery.
Mr. John Smith, Gibraltar.
Capt. Snowe, 64th Regiment.
Rev. Mr. Snelfon, Reigate,
Surrey.
Rev. Benjamin Choyce Sowden,
Amflerdam.
Mr. H. F. Spencer.
Mr. Edmund Stack, Lifbon.
Mr. Jofeph Staines, Ironmonger
Lane.
Mr. Edward Stanley, Gibraltar:
Mrs. Stapleton.
Capt. St. Clair, 25th Regi
ment.
Lieut. St. George, nth Re
giment of Foot, 3 copies.
Capt. Stephens,Royal Artillery.
Lieut. J. Stewart, 68th Regi
ment.
Enfign Stewart, 68th Regiment.
Enfign Stewart, 2d, or Queen's
Regiment of Foot.
Mr. J. T. Stewart, Gracechurch
Street.
Mr. W. Stephens, Lifbon.
Mr. Stillingfleet.
Mrs. Stillingfleet.
Mifs Stillingfleet.
Lieut. Stone, Royal Navy.
J. Stone, Efq. Hackney.
Samuel Stratton, Efq. Ruffia
Court, Leadenhall Street.
Mr. Samuel Straton, St. Mary
Axe.
Capt. Sutherland, 25 th Regi
ment. CajJH

XII

SUBSCRIBERS.

Capt. Svvaffield, Royal Navy,
Mr. B. Sweatland, Exeter.
Mr. G. Sweatland, Gibraltar.
Mr. T. Sweatland, Exeter.
Lieut. Swiney, Royal Artil
lery.
Lieut. Col. Symes, 51ft Regi
ment. T.
Hon. Lieut. Tufton, 7th, or
Royal Fuzileers.
Lieut. Talbot, 7th, or Royal
Fuzileers.
Mr. J. G. Talbot, Royal Navy.
Mrs. Taylor, Highgate.
Mr. Taylor, 32d Regiment, 3
copies.
Mr. Mathew Taylor, Lifbon.
Lieut. Teefdale, 25th Regi
ment, ,
Mrs. Templeman, Serjeant's
Inn, Fleet Street.
Capt. Templer, 10th Regiment
of Light Dragoons.
Rev. John Templer.
Mifs Eliza Thompfon, Cork.
Mrs. Godfrey Thornton, Auftin
Friars.
Dr. Tomagnini, Lifbon.
Mr. Toulmin, Hackney.
Dr. Travers, Lifbon.
Enfign Trevelyan, nth Regi
ment of Foot, 3 copies.
Capt. Troughton, 2 copies.
B. Troughton, Efq. London.
B. Troughtpn, Jun. Efq. Lr.o-
don.
Jofeph Troughton, Efq. Lon
don.
Mr. Trye, Gloucefter.
Mr.  , Friend of D°
RichardTurner, Efq. Uxbridge,
Middlefex.

Mr. T. Turner, Cornhill, 2
copies.
Mr. J. Turner, St. Mary Axe.
U.
Rear Admiral. Uvedale.
Rev. Mr. Van Effen, Hackney.
Lieut. Vaffell, 59th Regiment.
Lieut. Vaughan, 59th Regi
ment.
Mr. W. Vaughan, Gibraltar.
Mr. G. Vaux, Coleman Street.
Lieut. Veitch, 7th, or Royal
Fuzileers.
Mr. C. H. Vermehren, Lifbon.
Lieut. Vefey, nth Regiment
of Foot, 3 copies.
Robert Vigne, Efq. London.
Unknown, 3 copies, W.
Sir Clifton Wintringham, Bart.
Mrs. Woodifield, Highgate,
Middlefex, 6 copies.
Lieut. Wade, 25th Regiment.
Capt. Walker, 7th, or Royal Fu
zileers.
Lieut. Walker, 7th, or Royal Fu
zileers.
Mifs Walker, Stamford Houfe,
Upper Clapton.
Mrs. Wallis.
Mr. T. Waller, Royal Navy.
Lieut. Ward, Royal Artillery.
Mr. W. Ward, Fenchurch Sheet
P. Warren, Efq. Lloyd's Coffee
Houfe.
Capt. Watts, Jerfey.
Mr. T. Watfon, Bank Build
ings.
Major Wauchope, 50th- Regi
ment.
Capt. Wemyfs, nth Regiment
of Foot, 3 copies. Capt-

SUBSCRIBERS:

xui

Capt. Wemyfs, 59th Regiment.
Capt. WetheraU, nth Regiment
of Foot, 3 copies.
Rev. John WetheraU, nth Re
giment of Foot, 3 copies.
Mrs. G. WetheraU, Dublin.
Mifs Ifabella WetheraU, Dublin.
Mr. C. Wheler, New Court, St.
Swithin's Lane.
Lieut. White, 3 2d Regiment.
Benjamin White, Efq. Oxford.
Capt. Whitham, Royal Artillery.
Capt. Whitworth, Royal Artil
lery.
 Whitmore, Efq. Old
Jewry.
Peter Wiike, Efq. Swedifh Con
ful General, Tangier, 4. copies
 Wildbore, Efq.
Mr. Wilcox, 3 2d Regiment.
Thomas Wilkinfon, Efq.
Mifs Frances Wilkinfon.
Mifs Sarah May Wilkinfon.
Mr. Wilkinfon, Royal Navy.
Enfign Willock, 68th Regi
ment.

William Wilfon, Efq. Ireland.
Capt. Wilfon, 59th Regiment.
Lieut. Wilfon, 59th Regiment.
Mr. J. R. Wilfon, Royal Navy.
Mr. T. Winter, Gibraltar.
Lieut. Col. Wollocombe, 2d, or
Queen's Regiment of Foot.
Enfign Wolfely, 18th, or Royal
Irifh.
Enfign Wood, 2d Battalion,
Royals.
Mr. Woodifield, Gloucefler.
Mr. M. Wright, Lifbon.
Mr. T. Wright, Devonfhire
Street.
Mrs. Wynyard.
Lieut. Wybrants, iithRegiment
of Foot, 3 copies.

Capt. Yorke, Royal Artillery.
Mr. R. Young, Lifbon.
Mr. Young, zdRattalion Royals
Mr. D. C. Young, Royal
Navy.

ADVERTISEMENT.

ADVERTISEMENT.
THE Author cannot help feeling himfelf
under an obligation of apologifing for the
frequent egotifms, which appear in the CDurfe of
the following narrative, and for the fhare of it
which his adventures neceffarily occupy'. The
reader will only have the goodnefs to bear in
mind, that thefe tranfactions are detailed merely
with a view of throwing light upon the character
of the people, and the court, which he has under
taken to defcribe ; and in this view he humbly
conceives that they ferve better to illuftrate the
manners and difpofitions of the Moors than ths
moft laboured difquifitions.
In the map which accompanies this volume,
the Author's route is traced in fhort lines ; the
other divifions mark the feveral provinces of the
empire.

CONTENTS.

CONTENTS.

CHAP. I.

IK/JOTIVES ofthe Author for undertaking
this 'Tour. — Sails from Gibraltar. — Ar-
rival at Tangier. — Defcription of that
Place. — "Departure for Tar ud ant. — In
ftance of Tyranny exercifed upon a few. —
State of the Country and Roads. — Mode of
living on thefe fournies. — Defcription of
Ar z i l l a . — Moorijh L uxury. — Application
from a Variety of Patients. — Arrival at
Larache  Page i

Chap. II. Defcription o/"Larache. — Appli
cation from a Number of Patients. — Difeafes
cf the Country. — State of Medical Science in
Morocco. — Curious Ruin. — Beautiful
Country. — Encampments of the Arabs. —
Manners and Cujloms of this fngular People.
b — Opprefjion

xvm contents.

— Opprejfwn of the People. — Inflames. —
Mode of fjhing in the Lakes. — SanBuaries.
— Moor if Saints. — Anecdotes illujlrative of
this SubjeB. — Journey from Mamora to
Sallee  26

Chap. III. Defcription of Salj rE. — Piracies.
— Curious L -'tier of M l ley Z i d a n to King
Charles I. — Brutal ConduB of a Muleteer.
— Han J f me Behaviour Gf the French Conful.
— Defcription of Rabat. — Journey from
Rabat to Mogodore. — Violent Storm. —
Ruins of 'Fad ala. — Dar Beyda. — Aza-
more. Melancholy Anecdote of an Englifh
Surgeon. — Mazagan. — Dyn Medina
Rab^eA. Saffi. General State of the
Country. — Defcription of Mogodore . $$

0

Chap. IV. General View of the Empire of
Morocco. — Situation and Climate. — Pro
vinces . — Soil. — ll 'onderful Fertility . — Sea
Ports. — Natural ProduBions. — Mines. —
Animals. — Occajional Famines. — Famine in
1 778 .' — ManufaBures. — Buildings. — Roads.
• — Population. — IntroduBion of Negroes. —
Mulev

contents. XIX
Muley Ishmael — his Policy. — Sidi Ma
homet. — General OppreJJion ofthe People.—
Merchants  90
Chap. V. Journey fromMoGonos.ii toS ant a
Cruz. — Some Account of the Origin of that
Place. — Arrival at Tarudant. Intro-
duBion to the Prince. — Defcription of his
Palace. — Singular Reception. — Accommoda
tions. — State ofthe Prince ' s Health. — Abfurd
Prejudices of the Moo-rs. — Altercation with
the Prince. — Application from other Patients.
— The Cadi. — IntroduBion into the Prince's
Harem. — Wives of the Prince. — State of the
Female Sex in this fe eluded Situation. — Vifible
Amendment in the Prince's Complaint .—-His
Affability. — CharaBer of the Prince Muley
Absulem  117
Chap. VI. Defcription of Tarudant. —
Country of Vled de Non. — Markets for
the Sale of Cattle, — Extraordinary Amend
ment in the Prince' s Complaint. — Great Ci
vility from two Moors. — Singular Adventure.
— The Prince ordered on a Pilgrimage to
Mecca. — Jnterceffion in Favour of the
b z Englijh

XX contents.
Englijh Captives. — UnexpeBed Order to re
pair to Morocco  156
Chap. VII. Journey over Mount Atlas from
Tarudant to Morocco. — Retinue. —
Dangerous Pajfage over Mount Atlas.
— Defcription of Mount Atlas. — Natural
Productions. — Animals. — Beautiful Vallies.
—Manners and Cuftoms ofthe Brebes.—
PiBurefque Views in the Mountains . 173
Chap. VIII. Arrival at Morocco. — Diffi
culty of obtaining an Audience. — Defcription
of the Metropolis. — Buildings. — Houfe of the
Prime Minifier. — The Cajile. — The Jewdry.
— State of the Jews in Barbary. — Account
of Jacob Attal, the Emperor's Jewijlo
Secretary. — Manners of the Jews in Barbary.
—Jewejfes. —— Drefs. - — Marriages. — Difpo-
fttlon for Intrigue in the Jewijh Women. —
The Emperor s Palace defcribed . . 185
Chap. IX, IntroduBion to the Emperor,—
Convcrfathn with his Moorijh Majejly. —
Account ofthe Emperor Sidi Mahomet —
T his

CONTENTS. xxi
his CharaBer — his extreme Avarice — his mife-
rable Situation. — Anecdotes relative to the late
Emperor. — Anecdotes o/'Sidi Mahome t—
his Deceit and Hypocrify — his Charity.—-
Pufllanimous ConduB of the European Pow
ers. — Ceremonies of the Court of Morocco.
— ExaBions from Strangers. — Account of
the principal Officers of State. — CharaBer
of the late Prime Minifier. — Revenues of
Morocco. — Wealth of the Emperor, tefs
than generally imagined. — The Army of the
Emperor — how commanded — his Navy. — In
ternal Government of the Empire. — Bajhaws.
—Alcaides. — Ell hackum, — Cadi. — Mode of
adminifering Juf ice. — Criminal Puniff ments 2IO
Chap. X. Arrival of Muley Absulem
at Morocco — his pompous Entry. — Ad
ventures offome Englijh Captives. — Account
of wild Arabs,- — Interview with the Prince.
— Flattering ExpeBations — difappointed. — ¦
"Unworthy ConduB of the Prince — his De
parture for Mecca. — Difagreeable Embar-
raffments. —

xxn contents.
raffments. — Efforts of the Author to procure
Leave to return  271
Chap. XI. Departure of Capt. Irving. — ¦
Infolence of the Popidace to Ckriflians. —
Manners and CharaBer of the Moors.—
Education ofthe Princes. — Perfons and Drejs
cfthe Moors. — Houfes and Furniture. — Cere
monies.- — Couriers. — Anecdotes illuflrattve of
Moorijh Cuftoms. — Topics of C ' m-vcrfawn at
Morocco . — Hrf-nanfrnp . — Muf.c and Poe
try. — Religion. — Mofjucs. — Slaves. — Mar
riages. — Funerals. — Reuegadoes. — Caravans
to Mecca and Guinea .... 28.7
Chap. XII. Summons to appear before the
Emperor. — Admiffion into the Royal Harem.
— Attendance on Lalla Zara. — Introduc
tion to Lalla Batoom, the chief Sultana.
— IntroduBion to Lalla Douyaw, the
favourite Wife of the Emperor — her Hifiory.
— Defcription. ofthe LIarem. — its O economy.
— Concubines of the Emperor. — Adventure
and Altercation with one of thofe Ladies. —
Drefs of the Ladies in the Harem. — Opi-
x mon

CONTENTS. xxiii
nion ofthe Moors concerning the Female Sex.
— Emperor s Children. — Drefs, Manners,
and Situation of the Female Sex in Barbary 359
Chap. XIII. Duplicity of the Emperor.-—
Plan of the Author to effeB his Emancipation
— unfkccefsful. — Application through another
Channel. — Curious Prefent from the Em
peror. — Striking Inftance of Tyranny. —
'Per foi. al Application to the Emperor. — Traits
of Defpotifm. — The Emperor s Difpatches ob
tained. — Commiftions from the Ladies in the
Harem. — Anecdotes of an Englifh Mu
latto. — Journey to Buluane. — Defcrip
tion of that Fortrefs. — Singular Mode of
paffing the River. — - Arrival at Sal lee
— at Tangier. — Prefent from the Em
peror. — Return to Gibraltar . . . 405
Chap. XIV. Return of the Author to Barbary.
— Tetuan. — Town and Buildings — Port.
¦ — Prefent State of the Empire of Morocco
under Muley Yazid — Anecdotes relative
to his Acceftion. — Muley Yazid fent t»
Mecca by his Father — his Return — takes
Refuge

<XXlV CONTENTS.

Refuge in a SanBuary. — State of the late
Emperor. — Death of Sidi Mahomet. —
Diffention among the Princes. — Muley Ha-
sem proclaimed Emperor — retraBs his Pre-
tenfions. — Anecdote relative to Muley Ab-
drahaman — curious Letter from him to
Muley Yazid. — His Submiffion. — Peace
able Eftabliftoment of Muley Yazid. — De
predations of the Arabs. — Perfecution of the
Jews. — Death of Alcaide Abbas. — Cha
raBer s/'Muley Yazid. — Death of Mu
ley Yazid  427

A TOUR,

TOUR,

CHAP. I.

Motives of the Author for undertaking this
Tour. — Sails from Gibraltar.*— Arrival at
Tangier. — Defcription of thai Place.—
Departure for Tarudant. — Inftance of
Tyranny exercifed upon a Jew.*— State of
the Country and Roads.— Mode of living
on thefe Journies. — Defcription of Arzil-^
l a . — Moorijh Luxury. — Application from
a Variety of Patients. — Arrival at La-
rache.
IN the month of September 1789 a re-
queft was forwarded through Mr. Ma-
tra, the Britifh conful general at Tangier,
to his excellency General O'Hara at Gib
raltar, from Muley Absulem, the late
emperor of Morocco's favourite fon, the
B purport

s A TOUR TO MOROCCO, He.
purport of which was, to intreat his excel
lency to fend a medical gentleman from
the garrifon to attend the prince, whofe
health was at that time in a dangerous and
declining ftate.
As the term Muley will frequently
occur in the fucceeding pages, it may not
be improper to ftate in this place, that it is
a title of honour, which is confined to the
royal family of Morocco, and is equivalent
to that of lord, or rather prince, in our
language. The promifes of Muley Absulem to
the conful were fplendid and encouraging.
The perfon who was to be fent on this
expedition was to be protected from every
indignity, and to be treated with the utmoft
refpedt. He was to receive a liberal re
ward for, his profeflional exertions ; his ex
pences during his journey, and while he
ftaid in the country, were to be punctually
defrayed -r and he was to be fent back with
out delay, whenever his prefence mould be,
required at the garrifon. But the moll.
flattering circumftance which attended this
requifition of the Moorifh prince was, the
& releafe

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &t. s
releafe of certain Chriftian captives who
were at that period detained in flavery.
Thefe unfortunate perfons confined of the
.mafter of an Englifh veffel trading to Afri
ca, and nine feamen, who had been wrecked
upon that part of the coaft which is in
habited by the wild Arabs, and were car
ried into flavery by that favage and merci-
lefs people.
How far thefe brilliant affurances were
fulfilled, will appear in the courfe of the
following narrative. It is fufHcient for the
prefent to obferve, that, influenced by the
faith which the inhabitants of Europe are
accuftomed to place in the profeffions of
perfons of rank and dignity, and ftill more .
impelled by that impetuous curiofity which
is natural to youth, I was eafily perfuaded
to embrace the opportunity of vifiting a re
gion fo little known' to European travel
lers, and to undertake this fingular, and (as
it was generally regarded) extremely ha
zardous fervice.
However difappointed I may have been
in my hopes of pecuniary advantage and
emolument, ftill I cannot at this moment
B 2 regret

4 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, b\:
regret my rafhnefs, as it was confidered by
many. In the courfe of my vifit I had
opportunities which no European had ever
enjoyed of becoming acquainted with the
manners, policy, cuftoms, and character
of this fingular people. The fanctity of
the royal harem itfelf was laid open to my
infpedtion. Even the dangers which I
encountered, and the anxious apprehenfions
which I occasionally experienced, I can
now reflect upon with a degree of emotion
which is not unpleafant. The notes which
I made upon the fpot I had the great plea-
fure to find proved interefting and enter
taining to a number of my friends. By
their perfuafions I have been encouraged to
lay them before the public; and my only
and earneft wifh is, that the reader may
not find his curiofity difappointed, his at
tention wearied, or his judgment difgufted,
by the adventures and obfervations, which,
with the moft perfect confcioufnefs of my
own inability as a writer, I fubmit to his
infpedtion. The neceffary preliminaries being fet
tled, and the baggage of a foldier requiring no

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, fcfr. y
no great preparation, I embarked at Gib
raltar the 14th of September 1789, on
board a fmall veffel, and in fix hours ar
rived at Tangier, where I immediately
waited on Mr. Matra, whofe polite recep
tion and kind offices during the fix months
that I fpent in Barbary, claim, and ever wiU
command, my warmeft acknowledgments.
I foon learned that my intended patient
was, by his father's command, at the time
of my arrival, at the head of an army in the
mountains between Morocco and Taru
dant, which obliged me to remain at Tan
gier, till we received certain intelligence
of the prince's return to Tarudant, his
ufual place of refidence.
It would be difficult to determine whe
ther furprize or regret was moft predomi^-
nant in my mind upon my arrival in this
country. The diftance is fo trifling, and the
tranfition fo fudden, that I at firft could fcarcely
perfuade myfelf that I was out of Europe,
till I was convinced to the contrary by the
wonderful difference of people and manners
which immediately prefented itfelf on my
entering Tangier. Civilization in moft
B 3 othec

6 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, fcV.
other countries owes its origin to a commer
cial intercourfe with foreign nations; and
there are few parts of the world, however dif-
tant or uninformed, whofe inhabitants havev
not, in fome way or other, fallen into the
manners of thofe foreigners by whom they
are vifited. But here this circumftance feems
to have had not the fmalleft effect; for
though fituated only eight leagues from
Europe, in the habit ofa conftant commu
nication with its inhabitants, and enjoying
the advantage of a number of foreigners
refiding in the place, yet the people of
Tangier ftill retain the fame uncultivated
manners, the fame averfion to every kind of
mental improvement by which the Moors
have for ages paft been fo juftly charac
terized. It is well known that the town and
fortrefs of Tangier formerly conftituted
a part of the foreign dominions of Great
Britain. While in the poffefiion of the
Englifh it was a place of confide rable
ftrength, but when it was evacuated by the
orders of Charles II. the fortifications were
demolifhed, and only the veftiges of them
are now viable. There is at prefent only
a fmall

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &c. 7
a fmall fort in tolerable repair, which is
fituated at the northern extremity of the
town, and a battery of a few guns which
fronts the bay. From thefe circumftances
it is evident that it could make only a very
weak refiftance againft any powerful at
tack. The town, which occupies a very fmall
fpace of ground, and affords nothing re
markable, is built upon an eminence which
appears to rife out of the fea, and is fur-
rounded with a wall. The land for a fmall
diftance round it is laid out into vineyards,
orchards, and corn-fields, beyond which
are tracts, of fand, with lofty and barren
hills. The fituation is therefore far from
beautiful or agreeable. The houfes are in
general mean and ill furnifhed, the roofs
are quite flat, and both thefe and the walls
are entirely whitened over ; the apartments
are all on the ground floor, as there is no
fecond ftory.
Contrary to the ufual cuftom in Barba
ry, the Moors and Jews live intermixed
at Tangier, and maintain a more
friendly intercourfe than elfewhere in this
S 4 quarter

8 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, £3V.
quarter of the globe. The Jews alfo, in-
ftead of going bare-footed by compulfion,
as at Morocco, Tarudant, and many
other places, are only required to do it
when paffing a ftreet where there is a
mofque or a fandtuary.
The foreign confuls (except the French,
who has a houfe at Sallee) refide at Tan
gier. Before the reign of the late emperor
Sidi Mahomet, they were allowed to live
at Tetuan, a town greatly preferable to
Tangier, as well on account of the inha
bitants being more civilized, as of the beauty
of the adjacent country. A fingular cir-
cumftance occafioned the expulfion of the
Chriftians from that pleafant retreat : — An
European gentleman was amufing himfelf
with lhooting at fome birds in the vicinity
of the town, and accidentally wounded an
old Moorifh woman, who unfortunately
happened to be within reach of the fhot.
Upon this accident the late emperor fwore
by his beard that no Chriftian fhould ever
again enter the town of Tetuan. It may
be neceffary to inform the reader that this
path (by the beard) is held by the Moors

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, ISc. 9
in fuch folemn eftimation, that they are
rarely obferved to violate it, nor was the
late emperor ever known to difregard it in.
a fingle inftance.
The fituation of confuls, indeed, in this
diftant and uncivilized country, is by no
means to be envied; and the recompence
which fhould induce men of liberal educa
tion to facrifice their native comforts and
advantages to fuch a fyftem of life as is
required here, ought not to be trifling.
They can form no fociety but among
themfelves ; and even the univerfally al
lowed law of nations is frequently infuffi-
cient to protect their perfons from infult.
Subject to the caprice of an emperor whofe
conduct is regulated by no law, and whofe
mind is governed by no fixed principle, '
they are often ordered up to court, and
after experiencing a very tedious, fati
guing, and expenfive journey, they are
frequently fent back again without having
effected the fmalleft point to the advantage
of tlieir own country, fometimes indeed
without even being informed of the pur
pose of the journey, As

I© A TOUR TO MOROCCO, isic.
As an alleviation to fo unfociable a life,
the Englifh, Swedifh, and Danifh confuls
have erected country houfes at a fmall dif-
tance from Tangier, where they occa-
fionally retire, and enjoy thofe amufements
which the country affords. Thefe are
chiefly gardening, fifhing, and hunting.
From the plenty of game of every kind
with which the country abounds, and a
total freedom from any reftridtion with re-
fpedt to it (for there are no game laws in
this empire) they give a full fcope to the
pleafures of the field, and endeavour by
thofe means to procure a fubftitute for the
want of friendly and chearful fociety.
On the northern fide of Tangier is
the caftle, which though very extenfive, lies
half in ruins. It has a royal treafury, and
is the refidence of the governor. Near the
water-fide are ftorehoufes for the refitting of
veffels, and at this port many of the empe
ror's row-gallies are built. A number of
them alfo are generally laid up here, when
not engaged in actual fervice. Indeed, from
jts convenient fituation with refpedt to the
Straits, this is the beft fea-port that he has for

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, tSe, it
for employing to advantage thefe fmall
veffels. The bay is fufficiently fpacious, but it is
dangerous for fhipping in a ftrong eafterly
wind. The moft fecure place of anchorage
is on the eaftern part of the bay, about
half a mile from fhore, in a line with the
round tower and the Spanifh conful's houfe,
which makes a very confpicuous appear
ance from the bay.
On the fouthern fide of the bay is the
river, where, before it was choaked up
with fand-banks, the emperor ufed to win
ter his large fhips, which he is now obliged
to fend to Larache. Moft of the rivers
in the emperor's dominions, which' were
formerly navigable, and well calculated for
the fitting out of veffels, and for the laying
of them up in ¦ fafety, have now their
mouths fo continually filling with fand,
that in a courfe of years fmall fifhing-boats
only will be able to enter them. It has
often occurred to me, that an enquiry into
the ftate of the emperor's navy, and in par
ticular into the inconvenience of his har-
J?ours3 might be an object of fome confe-
quence

jz A TOUR TO MOROCCO, bV.'
quence to the different European powers,
who now condefcend to pay a moft difgrace-
ful tribute to this fhadow of imperiaL dig
nity. Over the river of Tangier are the
ruins of an ancient bridge, fuppofed to have
been erected by the Romans. The centre
of it only is deftroyed, and that does not
feem to be the effect of time. It more
probably was pulled down by the Moors,
for the purpofe of permitting their veffels
to enter the river. The remainder of it is
entire, and by its thicknefs and folidity it
evinces the excellence of the antient archi
tects, and fhews that ftrength, as well as
freauty, made a confiderable part of their
ftudy. ^.s I propofe in a future part of this
Narrative to defcribe very particularly the
architecture, houfes, furniture, &c. in this
country, I fhall conclude my account of
Tangier by obferving, that in time of
peace it carries on a fmall trade with Gib
raltar and the neighbouring coaft of Spain,
by fupplying thofe places with provifions, and.

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &c. ij
and receiving in return European commo
dities of almoft every kind.
In a fortnight after my arrival at Tan
gier the conful received a letter from the
prince, informing him of his return to
Tarudant, and of his wifh that the Eng-
lifh furgeon might be difpatched to him
immediately. Previous to my departure,
however, it became neceffary to confider
what was required for the journey.
Two horfemen of the Black or Negro
cavalry, armed with long mufkets and fa-
brcs, were difpatched by the prince to ef-
cort me, and had been waiting for that
purpofe for fome time. The governor of
the town had orders to fupply me with a
tent, mules, and an interpreter. But it
was not without much difficulty that a
perfon .could be found in Tangier who
could fpeak the Englifh and Arabic lan
guages fufficiently well to perform that of
fice ; and it was owing to an accident that
I at length was enabled to obtain one.
After fearching the whole town in vain,
the governor ordered, during the Jewifh hour

14 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &V.
hour of prayer, that enquiries fhould bd
made among all the fynagogues for a perfon
who underftood both languages. An un
fortunate Jew, whofe occupation was that
of felling fruit about the ftreets of Gibral
tar, and who had come to Tangier merely
to fpend a few days with his wife and fa
mily during a Jewifh feftival, being unac
quainted with the intent of the enquiry,
unguardedly anfwered in the affirmative.
Without further ceremony the poor man
was dragged away from his friends and
home, and conftrained by force to accom
pany me.
Of the mode in this defpotic govern
ment of feizing perfons at the arbitrary
pleafure of a governor, an Englifhman can
fcarcely form an idea. Three or four lufty
Moors, with large clubs in their hands,
grafp the wretched and defencelefs victim
with as much energy as if he was an Her
cules, from whom they expected the moft
formidable refiftance, and half fhake him
to death before they deliver him up to the
fuperior power. — Such was exactly the
lituation of my unfortunate interpreter. From

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, £&. 15
From the fudden and abrupt manner in
which he was hurried away, in the midft of
his devotions, the women immediately took
the alarm, flew in a body to the houfe of
the conful, and with fhrieks and lamenta
tions endeavoured to prevail on him to get
the man excufed from his journey. The
immenfe diftance, and the ill treatment
which they knew was offered to Jews by
the Moors, when not under fome civi
lized controul, were certainly fufficient mo
tives for this alarm on the part of the wo
men. Upon the conful's affuring them,
however, that the wife fhould be taken care-
of, and the hufband fent back without any
expence to him on our arrival at Mogo
dore, where. I was to be furnifhed with
another interpreter, and upon my promifing
to protect the Jew from infult, and, if he
behaved well, to reward him for his trou
ble, the women immediately difperfed, and
returned home apparently fatisfied.
When this bufinefs was compleated, the
conful furnifhed me with a proper quantity
of liquors, two days provifions, a bedftead
formed by three folding ftools, for the con-
. veniency

iS A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &e.
veniency of packing it on the mules, with
proper cooking utenfils, and an oil-fkin
cafe to carry my bedding. The whole of my
equipage, therefore, confifted of two Negro
foldiers, a Jewifh interpreter, one faddle-
mule for myfelf, and another for him, two
baggage-mules, and a Moorifh muleteer on
foot to take care of them.
On the 30th of September, at three in the
afternoon, we fet out on our journey; and
at fix the fame evening arrived at a fmall
village about eight miles from Tangier,
named Hyn Dalia, where we flept that
night. The country through which we
paffed, after quitting the neighbourhood of
Tangier, was barren and mountainous,
with fcarcely any inhabitants ; and it conti
nued fo the whole way to Lar ache, only
a few miferable hamlets prefenting them-
felves occafionally to our view. The vil
lages throughout this empire confift of huts
rudely conftrudted of ftones, earth, and
canes, covered with thatch, and enclofed
with thick and high hedges. This de*
fcription exactly applies to that which re
ceived us on the firft evening of our expe
dition. So

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, isiV. 17
So careful had the governor of Tangier
been in executing his commifiion, and fo at
tentive to the accommodation of the perfon
who was to reftore health to his royal
mafter's favourite fon, that upon examining
my tent it was found fo full of holes, and
in every refpect fo out of order, that I was
obliged to place my bed under a hedge,
and make ufe of my tattered tent as a fide
covering. After fpending the night in this fingular
fituation, we proceeded on our journey at
half paft feven in the morning, and in an
hour after crofTed the river Mar ha, which
was nearly dry; though I-was informed
that after the heavy rains it is deep and
dangerous to be forded. In a wet feafon,
when the rivers are fwelled, travellers are
frequently detained for feveral days upon
their banks. There are in fact but very
few bridges in this country, fo that, except
at the fea-ports, where they have boats,
there is no method of pafling ftreams which
are too deep to be forded, except by fwim-
ming, or by the ufe of rafts. . '$;-
At ten we entered a thick and extendi^.
foreft, named Rabe a Clow. From its :'
C fituation

18 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, 6V.
fituation on a high mountain, from the;
rocky and difficult afcent, and from the
diftant view of the ocean through the
openings of the trees, this foreft prefented
to us an uncommonly wild, romantic, and,
I may with truth fay, a fublime appear
ance. From this profpedt, however, our
attention was in a great meafure diverted
by the miferable road over which we now
found we were to pafs, extending for the
moft part over fteep mountains and craggy
rocks. On this account we were obliged
to ride very flow, and with the greateft
caution. At eleven we crofTed another river, called
Machira la chef, running at the bot
tom of this elevated foreft, which, though
the feafon was dry, was rather deep. Here
the eye was agreeably refrefhed, by a fine
champaigne country, and a good road before
us. On this we continued until we arrived
at a rivulet with fome trees growing at a
fmall diftance from its margin. At noon
I fixed upon the moft fhady fpot I could
find, and, agreeably to the Moorifh fa-
fhion, fat down crofs-legged on the grafs
and dined. As

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, 'Jfc. 19
As the dreffing of victuals would have
retarded us too much on our journey, I al
ways made a point of having fomething
prepared the night before to eat cold the
following day. Such repafts in frefco were
agreeable enough, when wholefome and pa
latable water could be procured ; but very
frequently that was far from being the cafe.
In many places it was fo muddy and of-
fenfive, that, though extremely thirfty, I
could not drink it unlefs corrected with
wine. Except in the large towns, no provifions
could be procured but fowls and eggs ; with
thefe, which I had been before accuftomed
to efteem as delicacies, I now began to be
fatiated and difgufted. My ufual fupper
upon my route was a cup of ftrong coffee
and a toaft, which I found much more re-
frefhing than animal food. Every morning
I breakfafted upon the fame, and experienced
the invigorating effects of this beverage,
by its enabling me to fupport the fatigues
pf the day.
After purfuing our courfe for about two
hours, we arrived at the river Lorifa,
C 2 where

zo A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
where we were detained an hour by the
height of the tide. The uncertainty and
unevennefs of the bottom, and the number
of large ftones which lie in the channel of
this river, render it at all times unfafe to be
paffed. This circumftance we very fenfibly
experienced; for when the tide permitted us
to make the attempt, though we had men on
foot for the purpofe of guiding our beafts,
ftill by their ftriking againft the ftones, and
by their fudden plunges into deep holes, we
were continually thrown forward upon their
necks. Hardinefs and dexterity are, perhaps, the
firft among the few advantages which un
civilized nations enjoy. It was amufing in
this place to obferve a number of Moors,
who were travelling on foot, pull off their
cloaths, place them commodioufiy on their
heads, and immediately fwim acrofs the
ftream. In the evening we reached Arzilla,
where, in confequence of the fervice in
which I was engaged, application was made
by the foldiers to the Alcaide, or gover
nor of the town, to procure me a lodging.
Arzilla

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &c. 21
Arzilla is eleven hours journey, or about
thirty miles diftant from Tangier: for
the Moors compute diftances by hours ; and
as the pace of their mules is at the rate of
three miles an hour, the length of a journey
is generally calculated in this way with fuf-
ficient accuracy.
The apartment affigned me was a mifera-
ble room in the caftle, without any windows,
and receiving light from a door- way (for
there was no door) and from three holes in
the wall about fix inches fquare. This
caftle covers a large fpace of ground ; and
though it is now in a very ruinous condi-*
tion, appears to have been a building erect
ed formerly in a fuperior ftile of Moorifh
grandeur. The town is a fmall fea-port upon the
Atlantic ocean. It was once in the poffeffion
of the Portugueze, and was at that time a
place of ftrength ; but through the indolence
and caprice of the Moorifh princes its for
tifications have been fince neglected, and its
walls are rapidly decaying in almoft every
part. The houfes have a miferable appear
ance, and the inhabitants, who confift of a
C 3 few

22 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
few Moors and Jews, live in a ftate of the
moft perfect poverty.
The reader may form fome idea of the
manners of this country, by imagining me
and my interpreter at one end of the room,
as above defcribed, drinking coffee ; and at
the other, the muleteer and the foldiers en
joying themfelves over a large bowl of
CUSCASou, which they were devouring
with all the fervour of an excellent appe
tite, and in the primitive fafhion, that is
with their fingers. This fpecies of food is
very common among the Moors, who have
a tradition that it was invented by their pro
phet Mahomet, at a time when he could
obtain neither fleep nor fubfiftence. It is
their principal treat to all foreign minifters,
and travellers of diftindtion who vifit the
country. It confifts of bits of pafte about
the fize of rice, crumbled into an earthen
colander, and cooked by the fleam of boiled
meat and vegetables. The whole is then
put into an earthen difh, and butter and fpices
added to it. The difh is ferved up in a
wooden tray, with a cover of palmetto leaves
plaited together, About

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 23
About an hour after my arrival the go
vernor, and feveral of the principal Moors,
paid me a vifit, and brought me, in com
pliment to my royal patient, a prefent of
fruit, eggs, and fowls. After a converfa-
tion of about half an hour, during which
many compliments paffed on both fides, my
vifitors took their leave, and we all retired
to reft.
As the report was rapidly and extenfively
circulated that a Chriftian furgeon was ar
rived in the town, I found myfelf vifited
very early in the morning by a number of
patients, whofe cafes were in general truly
deplorable. Many of thefe objects were af
flicted with total blindnefs, white fwellings,
inveterate chronical rheumatifms, and drop-
fies. It was in vain to affure thefe unfortu
nate and ignorant people that their com
plaints were beyond the reach of medicine.
AH I could allege gained not the fmalleft
credit ; a Chriftian doctor, they afferted,
could cure every malady, and repeatedly of
fered me their hands to feel their pulfe ; for
difeafes of every kind in this country, it
feems, are to bedifcovered merely by an ap
plication to the pulfe. C 4 From

24 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
From the urgent importunities of my
patients, who all wifhed to be attended to
at the fame time, I was at firft at a lofs how
to proceed; however, I found myfelf under
the neceffity of ordering my guards to keep
off the crowd, and permit one only to con-
fult me at a time. It was truly diftrefling
to obferve fo many objects of real mifery
before me, without having it in my power to
adminifter that relief for which they ap
peared fo anxious, and which they were fo
confident of obtaining. Though moft of
their complaints appeared to be incurable, yet
had my time permitted I fhould have expe
rienced the moft heart-felt pleafure in ex
erting every means in my power to alleviate
their fufferings. Circumftanced as I was,
I could only recommend them medicines
which would have but a temporary ef
fect, and which ferved rather to fend them
away fatisfied than to afford a permanent
relief. In the mean time the governor had been
paying attention to the bad condition of my
tent, and by ordering the worft parts to be
cut out, and the reft to be patched, had re
duced it fo much in fize, that he had fcarcely
6 left

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 25
left room for myfelf and interpreter with
difficulty to creep into it.
At eight o'clock the fame morning, Oc
tober 2d, we began our route for the city of
Larache, about twenty-two miles from
Arzilla, and arrived there the fame day
about four in the afternoon. Our journey
thither was principally on the beach, fo that
but little occurred which was worthy of ob-
fervation. Before we could enter the town,
we were ferried over the river Luc cos,
which in this part is about half a mile in
breadth, and after many beautiful meanders
falls into the ocean at Larache.

CHAP.

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.

CHAP. II.
Defcription c/Larache. — Application from
a Number of Patients. — Difeafes of the
Country. — State of Medical Science in
Morocco.  Curious Ruin. — Beautiful
Country. — Encampments of the Arabs. —
Manners and Cuftoms of this fingular Peo
ple. — Oppref/ion of the People. — Inftances.
— Mode of fifing in the Lakes. — Sanc
tuaries. — Moorifti Saints. — Anecdotes illuf-
trative of this SubjeB. — Journey from
Mamora to Sallee.
IMMEDIATELY on my arrival at La
rache I was introduced to the Al
caide or governor, whom I found to be a
very handfome black. He fhewed me great
attention, and placed me in a very decent
apartment in the caftle, which is in a ftate
totally different from that of Arzilla.
Larache formerly belonged to the
Spaniards ; it has tolerably neat buildings,
and is of a moderate extent. This city is
fituated at the mouth of the river Luccos, upon

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 2?
upon an eafy defcent to the fea. The agree
able windings of the river, the clufters of
date and various other trees irregularly dif-
pofed, and the gentle rifings of the ground,
have a moft pidturefque effect; which, aided
by the reflection that you are contemplating
the pure works of nature, unaffifted or unde-
formed by art, cannot fail to infpire the moft
pleafing fenfations.
The town, though not regularly fortified,
poffeffes one fort and two batteries in good
repair. The ftreets are paved, and there is
a decent market-place with ftone piazzas.
This city indeed on the whole exhibits a
much cleaner and neater appearance than any
town which I vifited in Barbary, Mogodore
excepted, At the port veffels are refitted and fup-
plied with ftores, though there are no docks
nor conveniencies for building large fhips.
From the depth and fecurity of the river
the emperor is induced to lay up his large
veffels at Larache during the winter fea-
/bn. It indeed is the only port which he
poffeffes that can anfwer that purpofe. It is
however probable, that this river in procefs
x of

z8 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
of time will be fubject to the fame inconve
nience as that of Tangier, owino; to the
accumulation of fand, which already has pro
duced a bar at its entrance, of which the
annual increafe is very perceptible.
As one of my mules had fallen lame, I con
tinued the whole of the following day at
Larache, with a view of exchanging
him ; but to my great mortification was not
able to fucceed in the attempt. During a
great part of the day my room was fo fi'icd
with patients that it might with great pro
priety be compared to an infirmary, and that
not one of the leaftconfiderable.
The difeafes that I obferved to be moft
prevalent, were the hydrocele ; violent in
flammations in the eyes, very frequently
terminating in blindnefs; the itch, com
bined with inveterate leprous affections ;
dropfies, and white fwellings. I alfo ob
ferved a few intermittent and bilious fevers,
and frequently complaints of the ftomach,
arifing from indigeftion. Though this coun
try has in a few inftances been vifited by the
plague, yet that difeafe by no means is fo
prevalent here as in the Eaftern parts of
Barbary,

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. tg
Barbary, which are more contiguous to
Turkey, whence it is fuppofed ufually to
proceed. The caufe of the hydrocele fo frequently
occurring in this country feems to be in a
great meafure the loofe drefs of the Moors,
and the great relaxation which is induced
by the warmth of the climate *. The oph-
thalmy, or inflammation of the eyes, is evi
dently occafioned by their being expofed to
the reflection of the fun from the houfes,
which are univerfally whitened over. To
this inconvenience the Moors are more par
ticularly fubject, from their drefs not being
xalculated to keep off the rays of the fun, and
from no perfon being allowed the ufe of an
umbrella except the emperor.
The leprous affection appears to be here
ditary, for I was informed that it has been
frequently traced back from one family to
another for feveral generations, and it has
all the appearance of being the true leprofy
of the antients, It breaks out in great
* The medical reader will probably fee a further caufe for
the frequency of this complaint, in the great indulgence
which the Moors allow themfelves in certain pleafures, and
the application of the warm bath immediately after. <"!¦
blotches

jo A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
blotches over the whole body, in fome few
forming one continual fore, which frequently
heals up, and at ftated times breaks out afrefh,
but is never thoroughly cured. During my
refidence at Morocco, I had frequent op
portunities of trying a variety of remedies
for this complaint, but I never fucceeded
further than a temporary cure, for upon dif-
continuing the medicines the difeafe was cer
tain to return. The white fwellings and
dropfies probably arife from poor living ;
three parts of the people feldom having any
other kind of provifipn than coarfe bread,
fruit, and vegetables.
With refpect to the ftate of medical and
chirurgical knowledge in this country, it is
very limited indeed. They have, however,
their practitioners in phyfic, both Moors and
Jews, who have gone through the form of
fitting themfelves for the profeffion, which
chiefly confifts in feledting from the antient
Arabic manufcripts that remain in the coun
try fome fimple remedies, which they after
wards apply, as well as they are able, to vari
ous diftenvpers.
Their methods of treating diforders are,
bleeding, cupping, fcarifying, fomentations, and

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 31
and giving internally decodtions of herbs. •
Some are bold enough in the hydrocele to let
out the water with a lancet ; and there are
thofe who even couch for the cataract. I
never had an opportunity of feeing the
operation of couching performed in Bar
bary, but I was introduced to a Moor at
the city of Morocco, who told me that he
had performed it, and fhewed me the inftru-
ment which he ufed for the purpofe. This
was a piece of thick brafs wire, terminating
gradually at one end in a point not very
fharp. The Moors chiefly depend upon topical
remedies, and feldom make ufe of internal
medicines. Being ftrangers to the manner
in which they are to operate, they feem to
entertain no favourable opinion of their effi
cacy. It is indeed almoft impoffible to per-
fuade them that a medicine received into the
ftomach can relieve complaints in the head or
extremities. It is but juftice, however, to
add, that I never knew them object to any
thing that I adminiftered, provided I clearly
explained to them the manner in which they
were to be benefited by it. From thefe ob-
fervations.

32 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
fervations, and from the frequent recourfe
which the Mahometans have to charms and
amulets, it appears that, notwithftanding
their belief in predeftination, they are not
averfe to the ufe of means for the removal of
diforders. Of the number who applied to me for
relief at Larache, none appeared to ex
hibit the leaft fenfe of gratitude except one;
the reft behaved as if they thought they did
me a greater favour by afking my advice,
than I conferred on them by giving it. The
perfon to whom I allude, as being fo different
in his condudt from the reft, was an old
Moor of fome diftinction in the place, who
defired me to come to his houfe and vifit a
fick friend, with which requeft I immedi
ately complied. The man for this trifling
attention was fo uncommonly grateful, that
reflecting on the place where I was, and on
the treatment I had already experienced, I
was aftonifhed and gratified beyond expref-
fion. After fending to my apartment a large
fupply of poultry and fruit, the ufual prefent
of the country, he waited on me himfelf, and
affured me, that while he lived he fhould never

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 3i
never forget the favour which I had done
him ; at the fame time infifting upon my
making ufe of his houfe as my own upon
my return. As this was the principal inftance
of this very fingular virtue among the Moors,
which I experienced during my whole tour
in Barbary, I have thought it my duty to
be particular in mentioning the circum
ftance. On the 4th of October, at fix in the
morning, we left Larache, and at ten
paffed the river Clough, a fmall ftream.
At four in the afternoon we came to the
ruins of a large caftle, faid to have been
built fome hundred years ago, by a Moor of
diftinction, named Dar Coresy, who was
put to death by the then reigning emperor,
and his caftle deftroyed. Moft of the
caftles and other public buildings indeed,
which I faw in this empire, afforded ftrong
marks of having fuffered more from the
hands of the tyrant, than from the injuries
of time.
I have already mentioned the beautiful
profpects in the country adjacent to La
rache: thofe in the road from that city to
D Mamora

34 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
Mamora were not lefs delightful. We
travelled among trees of various kinds, fo
agreeably arranged that the place had more
the appearance of a park than of an uncul
tivated country. We crofTed over plains
which, without the aid of the hufbandman,
were rich in verdure ; and we had a view of
lakes which extended many miles in length,
the fides of which were lined with Arab
encampments, and their furfaces covered
with innumerable water-fowl. The fine-
nefs of the day greatly added to the pleafure
I received from thefe variegated fcenes, which
are not unworthy the pencil of the ableft
artift. At half paft four in the afternoon we ar
rived at the firft of thefe lakes, and pitched
our tent in the centre of one of the encamp-?
ments. Thefe encampments are generally at a
very confiderable diftance from the cities
and towns ; the villages, on the other hand,
are commonly quite in the vicinity of fome
town. The encampment confifts of broad
tents, conftructed either of the leaves of the
palmetto, or of camels hair. Some of them are

A TOUR TO MOROCCO,

35

are fupported by canes, and others are fixed
by pegs. The form of an Arab tent is in
fome degree fimilar to a tomb, or the keel
of a fhip reverfed. They are dyed black,
are broad, and very low. The tent of the
Shaik or governor is confiderably larger
than any of the others, and is placed in a
confpicuous part of the camp. Thefe
camps are named by the Arabs Douhars,
and the number of tents in them vary ac
cording to the proportion of people in the
tribe or family.. Some of the Douhars
contain only four or five, while others con-
fift of near a hundred. The camp forms
either a complete circle or an oblong fquare,
but the firft is more common. The cattle,
which are left to graze at large in the day,
are carefully fecured within the boundaries
at night. In all the camps the tents are clofed on
the North fide, and are quite open on the
South, by which means they efcape the cold
Northerly winds, fo prevalent in this coun
try during the winter feafon.
The Arabs who inhabit thefe encamp
ments are in many refpedts a very different
D 2 race

36 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
race of people from the Moors who inhabit
the towns. The latter,, from being in ge
neral more affluent, from their intercourfe
with Europeans, and from their different
education, have introduced luxuries, and im
bibed ideas, of which the others are entirely
ignorant. From their ftrong family attach
ments indeed, as well as from their inveterate
prejudices in favour of antient cuftoms, thefe
tribes of Arabs appear to be at a vaft dif
tance from a ftate of civilization. As this
fingular people affociate continually in tribes,
their marriages are confined to their own
family ; and fo ftridt are they in the obferv-
ance of this attachment, that they will not
permit a perfon who is not in fome degree
related to them to inhabit the fame camp
with themfelves.
The hufband, wife, and children all fleep
in the fame tent, commonly on a pallet of
lheep-fkins, but fometimes on the bare
ground. The children remain with their
parents till they marry, when the friends of
each party are obliged to provide them with
a tent, a ftone hand-mill to grind their corn*.,,
a bafket, a wooden bowl, and two earthen ditties^

tA TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 37
difhes, which conftitute the whole of their
furniture. Befides thefe they have however
a marriage portion, which confifts of a cer
tain number of camels, horfes, cows, fheep,
andgoats, with a proportionable quantity of
wheat and barley : and by grazing and culti
vating the neigbouring ground they gradually
increafe their ftock. The Arabs have fel*
dom more than one wife. Their women,
who are in general the very oppofite to
every idea of beauty, dp not, like thofe who
inhabit the towns, conceal their faces in the
prefence of ftrangers^
Each camp is under the direction of a
Shaik, to whom the reft apply for redrefs
whenever they feel themfelves aggrieved.
This governor is invefted with the power
of inflicting any punifhment which he may
think proper, fhort of death. He is ap
pointed by the emperor, and is in general
the Arab who poffeffes the greateft pro
perty. As they are generally at a diftance from
any mofque where they can exercife their
religion, an empty tent is allotted for the pur-
pofes of worfhip, which is placed in the
D 3 centre

38 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
centre of the camp, and which at the |jame
time ferves for the nightly abode of anv tra
veller who may pafs that way ; and thofe
who take fhelter in it are provided wiih a.
good fupper, at the expence of the whole
aifociation. Within this tent all the chil
dren afiemble every morning an hour be
fore day-break, before a large wood nre,
which is made on the outfide, and learn
their prayers, which are written in Arabic
characters on boards, and are always hang
ing up in the tent. The learning to read
the few prayers which are on thefe boards,
and to commit them to memory, is the orily
education to which the Arabs in general ever
attain. The unfettled turn of thefe people has
conferred upon them the appellation of
wandering Arabs. As foon as the land which
furrounds them becomes lefs productive, and
their cattle have devoured all the- pafture,
they ftrike their tents, and move on to fome
more fertile fpot, till neceffity again compels
them to retire. I met one of thefe tribes
upon their march, and obferved that not only
their camels, horfes, and mules, but alfo
their

' A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 39
their' bulls and cows, were laden with their
tents, implements of agriculture, wives and
chddren, &c.
In the empire of Morocco all landed pro
perty, except what is immediately connected
with towns, belongs to the emperor. The
Arabs, therefore, when they wiih. to change
their fituation, are obliged to procure a li
cence from him, or at leaft from the ba-
fhaw of the province, allowing them to take
poffeflion of any particular fpot of ground ;
and in confideration of this indulgence
they pay the emperor a proportion of its
produce. The treatment which I experienced from
thefe people was kind and hofpitable, be
traying no figns of that inclination to im-
pofe upon ftrangers, which fo ftrongly
mark the character of the inhabitants of
the towns. As foon as my tent was pitched,
numbers flocked round it, but apparently
more from curiofity than from any inten
tion of offending. On the contrary they
appeared exceedingly defirous to do every
thing in their power for my accommoda
tion. D 4 The

40 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
The drefs of the men confifts of a long
coarfe frock, made of undyed wool, which is
girt about the waift, and is called a cashove.
In addition to this they wear the haick,
which is a piece of fluff feveral yards in
length, made either of wool, or wool and cot
ton. This, when they go abroad, they ufe
as a cloak, throwing it over the whole of
the under drefs in a carelefs manner, the up
per part ferving to cover their head. They
wear their hair cut quite clofe, ufe no turban,
cap, nor ftockings, and feldom even wear
flippers. The drefs of the women is nearly the
fame, differing only in the mode of putting
on the cashove, which is fo contrived as to
form a bag on their backs, for the purpofe of
carrying their children ; and this they are able
to do, and perform all the drudgery of the
family at the fame time. Their hair, which
is black, is worn in different plaits, and is
covered with a handkerchief tied clofe to
their head. They are very fond of gold and
filver trinkets when they can obtain them,
and none of them are without a number of
bead necklaces. Their children go quite
naked

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 41
naked till the age of nine or ten, when they
are initiated in the drudgery of their parents.
The mode of living amongft thefe people
is much the fame as that of the Moors in
towns, cufcofou being their principal diet.
Befides this, however, they eat camels and
foxes flefh, and fometimes even cats have
fallen victims to their voracity. They ufe
barley bread, which is prepared without yeaft
or leaven, and baken in an earthen difh in
the fhape of a cake.
The complexion of the Arabs Is a dark
brown, or rather olive-colour. Their fea
tures, from their more active life, have ftron-
ger expreflion and fewer marks of effemi
nacy than thofe of the Moors in towns.
Their eyes are black, and their teeth in ge
neral white and regular.
The ill effects of ftrong family prejudices,
and of that narrow and exclufive difpofition
which accompanies them, is ftrongly mark
ed in thefe little focieties. Every camp
beholds its neighbour with deteftation or
contempt. Perpetual feuds arife between
the inhabitants of each, and too commonly
are productive of bloodfhed, and the moft
extravagant

42 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
extravagant outrages. When one of thefe
unfortunate contefts proceeds to open acta
of violence, it feldom terminates till the em
peror has taken a fhare in the difpute. Who
ever is the author, he at leaft generally de
rives advantages from thefe diffenfions ; for,
independent of the corporal punifhment
which he inflicts, he alfo impofes heavy fines
upon the contending tribes, which proves
the moft effectual mode of pacifying the
combatants. Befides what the emperor gains in this
way, which is frequently confiderable, he
likewife receives annually the tenth of every
article of confump tion which is the produce
of the countiy ; he alfo fometimes exadfs
an extraordinary impoft, anfwering in value
to about the fortieth part of every article
they poffefs, which is levied for the purpofe
of fupporting his troops. Befides thefe
levies, thefe unfortunate people are liable to
any other exaction which his caprice may
direct him to impofe upon them, from a
plea of pretended or real neceffity. The
firft tax (the tenth) is paid either in corn and

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 43
and cattle, or in money. The other is
always paid in corn and cattle.
The mode practifed by the emperor for
extorting money from his fubjedts is very
fimple and expeditious. He fends orders
to the bafhaw or governor of the province
to pay him the fum he wants within a li
mited time. The bafhaw immediately col
lects it, and fometimes double the fum, as
a reward to his own induftry, from the
Alcaides of the towns and Shaiks of
the encampments in the province which he
commands. The example of the bafhaw is
not loft upon thefe officers, who take care
to compenfate their own trouble with equal
liberality from the pockets of the fubjedts ;
fo that by means of this chain of defpotifm,
which defcends from the emperor to the
meaneft officer, the wretched people gene
rally pay about four times the taxes which
the emperor receives — fo little gainers are
arbitrary monarchs by the oppreffion of the
public ! The exactions indeed have been
fometimes fo fevere, that the Arabs have
pofitively refufed to fatisfy the emperor's
demands, and have obliged him to fend a
party

44 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
party of foldiers to enforce them. When
ever he is forced to this extremity, the fol
diers never fail to give full fcope to their
love of plunder.
When a ftranger fleeps in one of thefe
camps, he refts in the moft perfect fafety ;
for if he lofes the leaft article, or is in any
refpedt injured, all the Arabs of the camp
become anfwerable for it. So that a foreigner
travels with much greater fecurity under the
protection of government in this empire,
than among the nations of Europe which
are more civilized.
The lakes in this part of the world fur-
nifh great plenty of water-fowl and eels.
The manner of catching the latter being in
fome degree curious, I fhall trefpafs upon
the reader's patience while I endeavour to
give fome account of it.
A fort of fluff, about fix feet long and
two broad, is formed of bundles of reeds and
rufhes, rudely joined together, leavings-only
fufficient room to contain one man. The
fkiff gradually narrows off towards the head,
where it terminates in a point, which is bent
upwards in a manner fimilar to the turn of
a fcatc.

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 45
fl fcate. It is guided and managed entirely
by one long pole, and from its lightnefs is
capable of very quick motion. For the im
mediate purpofe of taking the eels, a number
of ftrong canes are fixed together, with a
barbed iron in each, and with this inftru-
ment, as foon as the eels are obferved in the
wafer, the man immediately ftrikes at them
with great dexterity, and generally with
fuccefs. Almoft the whole employment of the
Arabs confifts in the tillage of the ground
adjacent to their camps, and in the grazing
of their cattle. The grounds at a diftance
from the lakes, by the burning of the ftub-
ble in the autumn, and a flight turning up
of the earth with a wooden plough-fhare,
produce good crops of barley and wheat ;
and by thefe means the Arabs procure not
only fufficient for their confumption, but
are even enabled to bring a part for fale
to the neighbouring markets. Near the
marfhes and lakes their flocks and herds
find a very rich pafture, which, from the
number of every fpecies which I obferved,

46 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
added in no fmall degree to the beauty of the
romantic fcene.
With refpect to their markets, they have
fpots of ground fixed upon for that purpofe
within a few hours ride of their habitations,
where once a week all the neighbouring
Arabs tranfport their cattle, poultry, fruit,
and corn, to be difpofed of, ari fometimes
meet with a good fale from the Moorifh
merchants, who come from the town to pur-
chafe cattle and grain.
Were the emperor to allow a free expor
tation of corn, with moderate duties, and
to permit the people to enjoy what they
earn, exacting only the tax allowed him by
the Koran, of a tenth on each article, his
fubjedts would foon become very rich, and
his own revenue would be trebly increafed,
The foil is fo fertile, that every* grain is
computed to produce an hundred fold ; but,
owing to the want of a greater demand for
this article, the Arabs fow little more than
is neceffary for their own ufe.
The only guards of thefe rude habi tac
tions, both againft thieves and wild beafts,
are dogs of a very large and fierce~fpecies„ If

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 47
If thefe animals perceive a ftranger approach
the camp, they furioufly iffue in a body
againft him, and would probably tear him to
pieces, were they not reftrained, and called off
by their owners. Through the whole of the
night they keep up an inceffant and melan
choly barking and howling, which, though
doubtlefs very ufeful, in keeping their maf-
ters upon the watch, and frightening away
wild beafts, yet, when united to the lowing
.of the herds and neighing of the horfes
which occupy the vacant fpaces of the
camp, certainly tends to deprefs the fpirits,
and impede that reft which the fatigue at
tending thofe journeys naturally requires.
On the 5th October, between five and
fix in the morning, we quitted the habitat
tions of thefe hofpitable Arabs, and travel
led on to Mamora, where we arrived about
fix the fame evening. The greater part of
this day's journey afforded us a continuation
pf nearly the fame appearances with that of
the preceding day.
As we approached the town, we obferved
pn each fide of the lakes feveral fandtuaries
pf Moorifh faints. Thefe Sanctuaries are
| ftone

48 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
ftone buildings of about ten yards fquare,
whitened over, with a cupola at the top,
containing in them the body of the faint.
A veneration for perfons of eminent fanc-
tity has pervaded all nations and all religions
of the world. The Mahometan religion
appears as little favourable to this fpecies of
ruperftition as moft with which we are ac
quainted, as it fo tenacioufly infifts on the
unity of God, and fo ftridlly inhibits all crea
tures whatever from participating in the ho
nours which are due only to the Deity.
Some degree of idolatry, however, will pre
vail in every rude nation. When, therefore,
a Mahometan faint dies, he is buried with
the utmoft folemnity, and a chapel is erected
over his grave, which place afterwards be
comes more facred than even the mofques
themfelves. If the moft atrocious criminal takes refuge
in one of thefe chapels, or fandtuaries, his
perfon is fecure. The emperor himfelf, who
rarely fcruples to employ any means what
ever that may ferve to accomplifh his pur
pofe, feldom violates the privilege of thefe
places. When a Moor is oppreffed by any
mental

A f OUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 49
mental or bodily affliction, he applies to the
neareft fandtuary, and afterwards returns
home with his mind calm and comfor,ted>
expecting to derive fome confiderable bene
fit from , the prayers which he has offered
there : and in all defperate cafes the fanc-
tuary is the laft refort.
Saints in Barbary are of two kinds. The
firft are thofe who by frequent ablutions,
prayers, and other acts of devotion, have ac
quired an extraordinary reputation for piety.
Too many of thefe are artful hypocrites,
who under the mafk of religion pradlife the
moft flagrant immoralities. There are, how
ever, inftances of fome among them, whofe
practices accord in general with their pro-
feffion, and who make it their bufinefs to
attend upon the fick, and aflift the neceffi-
tous and unhappy. From fuch as thefe the
fevere fpirit of philofophy itfelf will fcarcely
withhold refpedt and veneration.
Idiots and madmen form the fecond clafs
of faints. In every ftate of fociety, indeed,
an opinion has been prevalent, that perfons
afflicted with thefe mental complaints were
under the influence of fuperior powers.
E The

5© A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
The oracles and prophets of the heathen
Vvorld derived their celebrity from this cir
cumftance ; and even among the lower claf-
fes in our own country we frequently have to
encounter a fimilar prejudice. In confor
mity, therefore, with thefe notions, fo na
tural to uncultivated man, the Moors con-
fider thefe unhappy perfons as being under
the fpecial protection of Heaven, and di
vinely infpired. Superftition here, as per
haps in fome other inftances, becomes ad
mirably fubfervient to humanity and cha
rity. In confequence of this prejudice, the
moft friendlefs and unprotected race of mor
tals find friends and protedlors in the popu
lace themfelves. They are fed and cloathed
gratis wherever they wander, and are fome
times loaded with prefents. A Moor might
with as much fafety offer an infult to the
emperor himfelf, as attempt by any feverity
to reftrain even the irregularities of thefe re
puted prophets.
It muft not however be diffembled, that
opinions which have hot their bafis in rea-
fon and philofophy are feldom found to
operate

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. $t
operate uniformly for the advantage of fo-
ciety. Independent of the wide fcope
which thefe fuperftitious notions afford to
hypocrify, numberlefs are the evils with
which they are attended, fince whatever
mifchief thefe fuppofed minifters of heaven
may perpetrate, their perfons are always
facred. It is not long fince there was a
faint at Morocco, whofe conftant amufe-
ment was to wound and kill whatever per
fons unfortunately fell in his way ; yet, in
fpite of the many fatal confequences from
his infanity, he was ftill fuffered to go at
large. Such was the malignity of his dif-
pofition, that while he was in the very act
of prayer he would watch for an opportu
nity to throw his rofary round the neck of
fome perfon within his reach, with an in
tent to ftrangle him. While I refided at
Morocco, I fenfibly experienced the incon
venience of coming within the vicinity of
thefe faints, as they feemed to take a par
ticular pleafure in infulting and annoying
Chriftians. Befides thefe, I may mention under the
head of faints or prophets, the Mara-
E 2 BOUTS,

52 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
bouts, a clafs of importers who pre
tend to fkill in magic, and are highly
efteemed by the natives. They lead an in
dolent life, are the venders of fpells and
charms, and live by the credulity of the po
pulace. There is alfo among thefe people a fet of
itinerant mountaineers, who pretend to be
the favourites ofthe prophet Mahomet, and
that no kind of venomous creature can
hurt them. But the moft fingular of this
clafs are the Sidi Nasir, or fnake-eaters,
who exhibit in public upon market-days,
and entertain the crowd by eating live
fnakes, and performing juggling decep
tions. I was once prefent at this ftrange
fpecies of amufement, and faw a man, in
the courfe of two hours, eat a living fer-
pent of four feet in length. He danced to
the found of wild mufic, vocal and inftru-
mental, with a variety of odd geftures and
contortions, feveral times round the circle
formed by the fpedtators. He then began
his attack upon the tail, after he had re
cited a fhort prayer, in which he was joined
by the multitude. This ceremony was re
peated

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 53
peated at intervals, till he had entirely de
voured the fnake.
Thus far by way of digreflion : I now
return to the courfe of my narrative. — Early
in the evening of the 5 th we arrived at
Mamora, which is diftant about fixty-four
miles from Larache. It is fituated upon
a hill near the mouth of the river Saboe,
the waters of which, gradually widening in
their courfe, fall, into the Atlantic at this
place, and form a harbour for fmall vef
fels. Mamora, like the generality of the
Moorifh towns through which I paffed,
contains little worthy of obfervation. While
it was in the poffeffion of the Portugueze
it was encompaffed by a double wall, which
ftill remains; it had alfo other fortifications,
which are deftroyed. At prefent it pof
feffes only a fmall fort on the fea-fide.
The fertile paftures, the extenfive waters
and plantations which we paffed in our
way hither, have already been remarked.
The vicinity of Mamora is equally en
chanting. What a delightful refirieiiee
would it be, if the country had not the mif-
E 3 ' for-*

54 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
fortune to groan under an arbitrary and op-
preffive government !
In the morning, between eight and nine,
we mounted our mules, leaving Mamora,
and directing our coUrfe towards Sallee,
where' we arrived between one and two at
noon, after having travelled over a fpace of
about fifteen miles. The road between
Mamora and Sallee is in excellent or
der, and tolerably pleafant. It extends along
a vale, towards which the hills gently flope
on each fide.
Within a quarter ofa mile of Sallee,
we arrived at an aqueduct, which the na
tives affert to have been built many years
ago by the Moors ; but from its ftyle, and
ftriking marks of antiquity, it bears more
the refemblance of a piece of Roman ar
chitecture. Its walls, which are remarka
bly thick and high, extend in length for
about half a mile, and have three ftupen-
dous arch- ways opening to the road, through
one of which we paffed on our way tq
Sallee. Although time has laid its de-
ftrudlive hand in fome degree on this an
cient piece of architecture, yet it ftill ferves
6 the

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 55
the purpofe of fupplying the town of
Sallee with excellent water.

CHAP. III.

Defcription of Sallee . — Piracies.— -Cu
rious Letter 0/* Muley Zidan to King
Charles I. — Brutal ConduB ofa Mule
teer. — Handfome Behaviour of the French
Conful. — Defcription ofRABAT . — Jour
ney from Rabat to Mogodore. — Vio
lent Storm. — Ruins of Fadala. — Dar
Beyda. — Azamore. — Melancholy A-
necdote of an Englijh Surgeon. — Maza-
gan. — Dyn Medina Rab^a. — Saf
fi. — General State of the Country. —
Defcription of Mogodore.
THE name of Sallee is famous in
hiftory, and has decorated many a
well-told tale. Thofe piratical veffels
which were fitted out from this port, and
which were known by the name of Sallee
rovers, were long the terror of the mercan-
E 4 tile

S6 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
tile world. Equally dreaded for their va
lour and their cruelty, the adventurers who
navigated thefe fwift and formidable veffels-
depopulated the ocean, and even dared
fometimes to extend their devaftations to
the Chriftian coafts. As plunder was their
fole aim, in the acquifition of it nothing
impeded their career. Human life was of
no value in their eftimation, or if it was
fometimes fpared, it was not through any
fentiment of jufticeor compaffion, but only
that it might be protracted in the moft
wretched pf fituations, as the hopelefs Have
to the luxury and caprice of a fellow mor
tal. The town of Sallee in its prefent
ftate, though large, prefents nothing worthy
the obfervation of the traveller, except a
battery of twenty-four pieces of cannon
fronting the fea, and a redoubt at the en
trance of the river, which is about a quar
ter of a mile broad, and penetrates feveral
miles into the interior country.
On the fide oppofite to Sallee is fitu
ated the town of Rabat, which formerly
partook equally with Sallee in its pira
tical depredations, and was generally con
founded;

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 57
founded with it. While Sallee and Ra
bat were thus formidable, they were what
might be termed independent ftates, paying
only a very fmall tribute to the emperor,
and barely acknowledging him for their fo-
vereign. This ftate of independence un
doubtedly gave uncommon vigour to their
piratical exertions. Few will take much
pains, or encounter great rifks for the ac-
quifition of wealth, without the certainty
of enjoying it unmolefted. Sidi Maho
met, however, when prince, fubdued thefe
towns, and annexed them to the empire.
This was a mortal blow to their piracies ;
for when thofe defperate mariners felt the
uncertainty of poffeffing any length of time
their captures, they no longer became felici
tous to acquire them; and at length, when
the man who had deprived them of their pri
vileges became emperor, he put a total ftop
to their depredations, by declaring himfelf at
peace with all Europe. Since that period
the entrance of the river has been fo gradu
ally filling up with fand wafhed in by the
fea, that was it poffible for thefe people to
recover their independence, it would incapa citate

58 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
citate them for carrying on their piracies to
their former extent *. Having
* In perufing the mauufcripts of a gentleman lately de-
ceafed, who formerly refided a number of years in this
Empire, it appears that Sallee was, fo far back as the year
1648, eminent for its piracies and independence, and that
it became an objeft of conqueft to the monarch of that time.
He expreffes himfelf in thefe words: —
" Sallee is a city in the province of Fez, and derives its
name from the river Sala, on which it is fituated, near its
influx into the Atlantic Ocean. It was a place of good
commerce, till addifting itfelf entirely to piracy, and re
volting from its allegiance to its fovereign Muley Zidan,
that prince, in the year 1648, difpatched an embaffy to
King Charles I. cf England, requefting him to fend a
fquadron of men of war to lie before the town, while he at
tacked it by land. This requeft being confented to, the
city was foon reduced, the fortifications demolished, and
the leaders of the rebellion put to death. The year fol
lowing the Emperor fent another ambaflador to England,
with a prefent of Barbary horfes and three hundred Chriftian
Haves, accompanied with the following letter. I infert it as
a fpecimen ofthe loftinefs ofthe Moorifh ftyle, and because
it leads me to think, that Muley Zidan was a more en
lightened prince than moft of his predecelfors. Neither
the addrefs, fignature, nor reception it met with at our
court, is expreffed in the manufcript. It appears to be a
modern tranflation, and is as follows.
" The King of Morocco's Letter to King Charles the
Firft of England, 1649. Muley Zidan.
" WHEN thefe our letters fhall be fo happy as to come
to your Majefty's fight, I wifh the fpirit of the righteous
God may fo direcl your mind, that you may joyfully em
brace

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 59
Having a letter of recommendation to
Mr. De Rocher, the French conful-gene-
ral, I was ferried over the river to Rabat, where
brace the meffage I fend. The regal power allotted to us,
makes us common fervants to our Creator, then of thofe
people whom we. govern ; fo obferving the duties we owe to
God, we deliver blefiings to the world in providing for the
public good of our eftates; we magnify the honour of God,
like the celeftial bodies., which, though they have much vene
ration, yet ferve only to the benefit of the world. It is the
excellency of our office to be inftruments, whereby happi-
nefs is delivered unto the nations. Pardon me, Sir ! This
is not to inftrudl, for I know I fpeak to one of a more clear
and quick fight than myfelf; but I fpeak this, becaufe God
hath pleafed to grant me a happy vi&ory over fome part of
thofe rebellious pirates, that fo long have molefted the peace
able-trade of Europe; and hath prefented further occafion to
root out the generation of thofe, who have been fo perni
cious to the good of our nations : I mean, iince it hath pleafed
God to be fo aufpicious in our beginnings, in the conqueft of
Sallee, that we might join and proceed in hope of like fuc-
cefs in the war of Tunis, Algiers, and other places ; dens
and receptacles for the inhuman villanies of thofe who abhor
rule and government. Herein while we interrupt the cor
ruption of malignant fpirits of the world, we (hall glorify
the great God, and perform a duty that will fhine as glori
ous as the fun and moon, which all the earth may iee and re
verence ; a work that fhall afcend as fweet as the perfume
of the molt precious odours, in the noftrils of the Lord: a
work whofe memory fhall be reverenced fo long as there fhall
be any remaining among men : a work grateful and happy
to men who love and honour the piety and virtue of noble
minds. This action I here willingly prefent to you, whofe piety

60 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
where he refides, and met with a very po
lite reception. Upon landing my baggage
a very warm difpute arofe between the mu
leteer and my interpreter, concerning the
method of packing it on the mules again,
for the purpofe of carrying it to the conful's
piety and virtues equal the greatnefs of your power; that
we, who are vicegerents to the great and mighty God, may
hand in hand triumph in the glory which the aflion prefents
unto us. — Now, becaufe the iilands which you govern, .have
been ever famous for the imconquered ftrength of their
fhipping, I have fent this my trufty fervant and ambaffador,
to know whether, in your princely wifdom, you fhall think
fit to affift me with fuch forces by fea, as iliall be anfwer-
abl'e to thofe I provide by land ; which if you pleafe to grant,
I doubt not but the Lord of Hofts will protect and affift
thofe that fight in fo glorious a caufe. Nor ought you to
think this ftrange, that I, who fo much reverenced the
peace and accord of nations, fhould exhort to war. Your
great prophet, Chrift Jefus, was the lion of the tribe of
Judah, as well as the Lord and giver of peace ; which may
fignify unto you, that he who is a lover and maintainer of
p:ace, mult always appear with the terror of his fword, and,
wading through feas of blood, muft arrive at tranquillity.
This made James your father, of glorious memory, fo happi
ly renowned among nations. — It was the noble fame of your
princely virtues, which refounds to the utmoft corners of the
earth, that perfuaded me to invite you to partake of that
bleffing, wherein I boaft myfelf moft happy. I wifh God
may heap the riches of his bleffings on you, increafe your
happinefs with your days, and hereafter perpetuate the
greatnefs of your name in all ages." houfe„

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. &t
houfe. Both parties appeared fo very ftre-
nuous iu tlieir caufe, that neither of them
paid any attention to my interference ; and
it was at length carried to fuch excefs, that
the muleteer ftruck my interpreter. Upon
feeing this, I could no longer remain a filent
fpectator, and I have reafon to fear my
warmth was almoft as intemperate as that
of the difputants. The blow was given in
fo brutal a manner, that I could with diffi
culty reftrain myfelf from immediately re
turning it. It was fortunate, however, that
I ftill poffeffed fufficient coolnefs to reflect
on the impropriety of fuch a proceeding,
and I directed one of my Moorifh foldiers
to punifh the muleteer. By means of long
leather ftraps which he always carried about
him, my Negro deputy performed his part
fo well on the back of the delinquent, that
he was foon glad to fall on his knees, and
intreat a pardon both from myfelf and the
interpreter. I was more defirous of punch
ing this infult for the fake of eftablifhing
my authority and confequence with the fol
diers, than from an intention of revenging
the caufe of the Jew, for I could not find out

6i A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
outwhichof the difputants was inthewrong;
but as my attendants had on two or three
former occafions fhewn a difpofition to be
troublefome, and as fo glaring an indignity
was offered to the perfon who looked up to
me for protection, I was determined to avail
myfelf of this opportunity of convincing
them that it was their duty to pay me every
attention. Mr. De Rocher, who refides in an ex
cellent houfe built at the expence of his
court, and who is the only European in the
place, has happily blended original Englifh
hofpitality with that eafy politenefs which
characterizes his own nation. He gave me
fo prefling an invitation to fpend another
day with him, that though anxious to make
an end of my journey, I could not refill: his
urgent folicitations.
The town of Rabat, whofe walls en-
clofe a large fpace of ground, is defended on
the fea-fide by three forts tolerably well
finifhed, which were eredted fome little time
ago by an Englifh renegado, and furnifhed
with guns from Gibraltar. The houfes in
general are good, and many of the inhabi tants

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 6$
tants are wealthy. The Jews, who are very
numerous in this place, are generally in bet
ter circumftances than thofe of Larache
or Tangier, and their women are by far
more beautiful than at any other town which
I faw in this empire. I was introduced to
one family in particular, where, out of eight
fillers, nature had been fo lavifh to them
all, that I felt myfelf at a lofs to deter
mine which was the handfomeft. A com
bination of regular features, clearnefs of
complexion, and expreffive black eyes, gave
them a diftinguifhed pre-eminence over their
nation in general ; and their perfons, though
not improved by the advantages which the
European ladies derive from drefs, were ftill
replete with grace and elegance.
The caftle, which is very extenfive, con
tains a ftrong building, formerly ufed by the
late emperor as his principal treafury, and a
noble terrace, which commands an extenfive
profpedt of the town of Sallee, the ocean,
and all the neighbouring country. There
are alfo the ruins of another caftle, which
is faid to have been built by Jacob Al-
monzor, one of their former emperors, and

64 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc;
and of which at prefent very little remains
but its walls, containing within them fome
very ftrolig magazines for powder and naval
ftores. On the outfide of thefe walls is a very
high and fquare tower, handfomely built of
cut ftone, and called the tower of Hassen.
From the workman fhip of this tower, con-
trafted with the other buildings, a very ac
curate idea may be formed how greatly the
Moors have degenerated from their former
fplendoar and tafte for architecture.
In the evening the conful introduced me
to Sidi MohAmet Effendi, the em
peror's prime minifier, who was at Rabat,
on his way to Tangier. I found him a
well-bred man, and he received me very
gracioufly. After fome converfation on the
purpofe of my journey, he defired I would
feel his pulfe, and acquaint him whether or"
not he was in health. Upon affuring him
that he was perfectly well, he expreffed in
ftrong terms the obligation I had conferred
upon him by fuch agreeable information ;
and having wifhed me fuccefs in my journey
and enterprize, we mutually took our leave. '
I availed myfelf of my delay at Rabat
to get the lame mule changed, and diredled my

A TOUR TO MOROCCO; Wc. 65
my Negro foldiers to arrange our affairs in
fuch a manner that we might leave the
place early the next morning. Mr. De
Rocher, in addition to the kindnefs I had
already experienced, ordered a quantity of
breadj which at this place is remarkably
good, to be packed up for my ufe, as well
as a proportionable fhare of cold meat, and
as much wine as we could conveniently carry
with us* This feafonable fupply lafted me
three days, and gave me time to recover in
fome degree my former relifh for fowls and
eggs. Though I muft acknowledge that the
attention and comforts which I experienced
during my fhoft flay at Rabat proved a
great relief, after the inconveniences I had
Undergone in travelling thither, yet on the
whole, I perhaps fuffered more from the
idea of having fimilar inconveniences to
thofe I had already experienced ftill to en
counter, without a profpedt of a fimilar alle
viation than if I had continued the whole
journey in an uninterrupted flate. The
Confideration that I was to pafs day after
day through a country where there is little
F ta

66 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
to amufe the eye ; that I had no companion
with whom I could converfe, or to whom
I could communicate my fentiments; and
that I was to travel the whole day at the
tedious pace of three miles an hour, and at
a feafon of the year when the coldnefs of
the mornings and evenings were a very in
different preparation for the heats which
fucceeded in the middle of the day, al
together preffed fo ftrongly upon my mind,
that I muft confefs I could not help expe- ,
riencing a considerable dejection of fpirits
at the idea of leaving Rabat *.
* The Abbe Poiret's remarks on travelling in Barbary
are fo appofite and fo juft, that I truft I fhall be excufed for
introducing a quotation from that author. — In one of his let
ters he fays, " I have never known fo well how to appre-
tiate the advantages of living in a polifhed nation, as fince
I have refided among a barbarous people. Never has the
convenience of our highways ftruck me fo much, as when
I have been obliged to travel through thick woods and deep
marlhes. How much would a peregrination of eight days,
in the manner I have travelled for fome time paft, change
the ideas of thofe delicate Europeans, who are continually
complaining of bad inns, and of the fatigues they endure
in their journeys ! In this country there are neither inns, poft-
chaifes, nor obliging and attentive landlords. One muft not
expeft to find here broad highways, beaten andfhady paths,
or places for repofmg and refrefhing one's -felf ; too happy, if,
• at

a Tour to morocco, Wc 6?
In confequence of the indolence of my
attendants, my baggage was not completely
packed up on the 8 th till between ten and
eleven in the morning, when I left the hof*
pitable roof of Mr. De Rocher, and.pro-
at the end of a fatiguing journey, one can meet with a fmall
hut, or a wretched couch ! But this is feldom to be ex-
pefted." Agairij in another letter, " How often rriuft you depart in
the morning, without knowing where you will arrive in the
evening ! How often, lofing yourfelf iii thefe deferts, muft you
fearch out your way amidft thorny brakes, thick forefts, and
fleep rocks ; fometimes flopped by a river which you muft
wade through, by a lake which you muft walk round, or by
a marfh which you cannot crofs without danger! fometimes
fcorched by the fun, or drenched by the rain, and at others
dying with thifft, without being able to find the fmalleft
fpring to quench it ! If you carry no provifions with you,
it will be impoffible for you to take any refrefhrhent before
night. This is the only time at which the Moors make a re
gular repaft, or can offer any food to a ftranger. But when
night arrives, that period of repofe for the traveller in Europe*
it is not fo for the African traveller. He muft then choofe out
a dry fituation, and well fheltered, to ereft his tent ; he muft
unfaddle his horfes, unload his mules, cut wood, light fires;
and take every precaution that prudence dictates, to defend
himfelf againft ferocious animals and robbers. It is fafeft to
encamp not far from the tents of the Arabs, when one can
find them. They furnifh many fuccours when they are trac
table, and they are always fo when they fee one with a fuffi-
cient guard.-— See a tranflation of the Abbe Poiret's travels
through Barbary, Letter the 8th.
F 2 ceeded

6S A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
ceeded on my journey for Dar Be yd a,
the n.xt town which offered itfelf on my
way to Mogodore.
With all the inconveniences which I had
hitherto experienced, I had reafon to think
myfelf very fortunate in having fuch fine
weather ; for this was the feafon when the
heavy rains ufually come on, and when a
fhower of half an hour's continuance
would wet more than the rain of a whole
day in England. Dry weather had accom
panied us the whole of the road from
Tangier to Rabat, and the heat from /
the hours of eleven to three was violent;
but, as I have juft before obferved, previ
ous to, and after thofe hours, the air was un
commonly cool. As an alleviation to the
great heat, we found the water-melons and
pomegranates between Rabat and Mo
godore of a moft delicious flavour, and
of particular ufe in allaying the exceffive
thirft, and removing the fatigue we expe
rienced from the journey. Thefe fruits
grow common in the open ground, and we
only paid two blanquils, or three-pence
Englifh a-piece, for water-melons, which were

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 69
were fufficiently large to ferve half a dozen
people. I could not help obferving how
provident nature has been, in granting in
fuch plenty, fruits fo well calculated for
the natives of warm climates. 'Indeed,
many of the poor in this country have
fcarcely any other provifions than fruit and
bread. At the time of our departure the appear
ance in the atmofphere promifed us a con
tinuance of the fame fine weather we had
hitherto experienced ; and it continued fo
till we had paffed three fmall ftreams,
which the Moors name the FIitcumb,
Sherrat, and Bornica. Thefe, after
the heavy rains have fallen, fwell out into
deep and rapid rivers, and arc frequently
rendered totally impaffable, except in boats
or on rafts. About five in the evening,
however, very heavy and black clouds be
gan to affemble, and very fhortly after fol
lowed a moft fevere ftorm. It was a dread
ful union of wind, hail, rain, thunder, and
lightning. From darknefs approaching
faft upon us, we became very anxious to
find out a place of fafety where we might
F 3 pitch

70 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
pitch our tent, and fbr that purpofe fpurred
our beafts ; but no excitement from the
fpur or whip could induce them to face the
ftorm, and we were obliged to wait a full
hour in a ftate of inactivity, till its violence
was over. We then pufhed on till we ar
rived at a couple of Arab tents, pitched in
an open countiy : bad as this fituation was,
we however rejoiced in being able to fix
our tent for the night, even in this unfq-
ciable fpot.
On the 9th of October, it having rained
the whole night, we were detained till be
tween ten and eleven in the morning in
drying the tent, which, from its being quite
wet, was become too heavy for the mutes to
carry with the other baggage ; we then pur-
fued our journey, and at twelve arrived at
the ruins of Mensooria. There was
formerly a caftle on this fpot,. which from
the extent of its walls, and a fquare tower
which form the whole ofthe ruins, appears,
to have been a very large building. My
foldiers informed me, that it had been the
refidence of a prince who was in oppofition
to his fovereign, and who was obliged to
defer t

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 71
defert it. The building was deftroyed by
the then reigning emperor, and the inter
mediate ground is now inhabited by a few
Negroes, living in fmall huts, who were
banifhed thither for having on fome occa-
'fion incurred the difpleafure of the em
peror. In an arbitrary country, where
the poffeffion of the throne depends more
on the will of the foldiers than on the
rights of fucceffion, the defpot confiders
that caftles may prove rather places of fe
curity for his opponents, than of any great
utility to himfelf; he therefore either fuf-
fers them to decay, or deftroys them en
tirely, according to the dictates of his ca
price. Indeed every town through which
I paffed in the empire affords ftriking
marks of the truth of this affertion.
Soon after our leaving Mensooria we
came up to Fadala, having forded in our
way the river Infefic Fadala, whilft
its ruins exift, will be a lafting monu
ment of Sidi Mahomet's caprice. It
confifts of the fhell of a town, began by
him in the early part of his reign, but ne
ver finifhed. It is enclofed within a fquare
F 4 wall,

73 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
wall, and is furnifhed with a mofque (the
only building that was compleated) for the
ufe ofthe inhabitants, who, like thofe of
Mensooria, live in huts in the intermer
diate ground. To the right of Fadala
we obferved a fmall but apparently neat
palace, which my attendants informed, me
was built by the late emperor for his occa
sional ufe, when bufinefs. led him. to travel
that way.
The remainder of our journey to Dar
Beyda, where we arrived about fix in the
evening, afforded nothing remarkable, ex
cepting that we paffed over a double bridge,
which is the only piece of architecture of
the kind that I faw in the country. It is
the wqrk of Sidi Mahomet, and is built
of ftone. The country between Rabat
and Dar Beyda, a diftance of about
forty-four miles, is one continuation of
barrennefs and rock.
Dar Beyda is a fmall fea,-port of very
little importance; it poffeffes, however, a
bay which admits veffels of pretty confide-
rable burthen to anchor in it with tolera
ble fafety, except when the wind blows hard

A TOUR! TO MOROCCO, Wc. 73
hard at north-weft, and then they are lia
ble to be driven on fhore. Upon 'my ar
rival, I was immediately introduced to the
governor, who was then in the audience-
chamber, attending to the complaints of
the inhabitants. After offering me his fer-
vices, and begging my acceptance of a few
fowls, he foon left us in the poffefiiori of
the room, where we flept that night.
On the 10th of October we departed
for Azamore, about fifty-fix miles dif-.
tant, between feven and eight in the morn
ing; and after a journey of two days came
up to the Mor bey a, at the mouth and
fouthern fide of which is fituated Aza
more. The river is fo wide and deep
here, that it is neceffary to be ferried over,
and a large boat is continually employed
for that purpofe,
We had no fooner got all our baggage,
our mules, and ourfelves into the boat, and
were ready to row off, thari a moft violent
difpute arofe between my Negro foldiers
and the ferry-men. ¦ As it was no new cir
cumftance to me to be a witnefs to thefe
altercations, I remained very quietly in
the

74. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
the boat till I obferved that one of the
ferry-men was putting every thing on fhore
again, whilft another was collaring one of
the foldiers. In fact, matters were pro
ceeding to fuch extremities, that I thought
it was full time to interfere.
Upon enquiry, I was informed that the
proprietor of the ferry farmed the river
from the emperor, and that in confequence
of it he was allowed all the perquifites of
the ferry ; that my foldiers infilled that as
I was in the emperor's fervice, it was the
duty of the people to ferry me, my bag
gage, &c. over the river, without receiving
any reward for their trouble. Which of
the two were in the right I could not pre
tend to determine ; but I was very glad to
end the difpute, by paying the ufual de
mand. After a few curfes on both fides,
the baggage and mules were replaced in
the boat, and we were ferried over to
Azamore. In a country, where arts and fciences are
totally neglected, and where the hand" of
defpotifm has deftroyed public fpirit, and
depreffed all private exertion, it is obvious, that

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 75
that confiderable tracts muft occur which j
are produdtive of nothing deferving of no
tice. This was precifely the cafe in my
journey from Dar Beyda to Azamore,
which prefented to our view one continued
chain of rocks and barrennefs, unpleafant
and fatiguing roads, without any one object
to vary the fcene, or to intereft cUriofity.
Azamore is a fea-port town on the
Atlantic ocean, fituated at the mouth ofthe
Morbeya; and though a large place, is
neither ornamented with public buildings,
nor has any thing remarkable in its hiftory
or fituation.
In compliance with the particular requeft
of one of my foldiers, whofe near relations
refide at Azamore, I continued here the
remainder of the day, and was lodged in a
room of a Moorifh houfe, which was fe-
cluded from the family. Soon after my
arrival I was vifited by a Jew in an , Euro
pean drefs, who had formerly lived with
one of the Englifh confuls, and who fpoke
the Englifh language with tolerable flu
ency. He took me to his houfe, and
there received me with great hofpitality, infifting

</5 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, tiff.
infifting on my dining with him, and mak
ing ufe of his houfe as my own. After
dinner he fhewed me the different parts of
the town ; and in the courfe of our conver-
fation requefted me to be particularly cau
tious how I conducted myfelf with the
prince whom I was going to attend; ob
ferving, that the Moors were extremely
fickle, and their conduct governed merely
by the caprice of the moment. To enforce
this caution he related to me a ftory, from
which I learned that an European furgeon
had, at fome former period, attended a
prince of Morocco, who, neglecting his ad
vice when under his care, had increafed his
malady; that this circumftance fo alarmed
the prince that he fent for the furgeon,
and upon his appearance produced a piftol.
The unfortunate man, alarmed and dif-
treffed by fuch unworthy treatment, haftily
withdrew, and in a fhort time put an en
to his exiftence.
On the 1 3th of October, having taken
leave of my Jewifh acquaintance, and my
foldiers of their friends, we fet off at eight
•in the morning for the town of Saffi, where

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 77
where we arrived on the evening of the
15th, after a journey of about fifty-feven
miles. The country we paffed through
was rocky and barren, producing fcarcely a
tree, or indeed any verdure whatever.
Soon after leaving Azamore, the town
pf Mazagan prefented itfelf to our view
to the right. This place was taken a
few years fince by Sidi Mahomet from
the Portugueze ; a conqueft of which his
-Moorifh majefty made a very pompous
boaft, though it is well known that the
Tortugueze, from the great inconvenience
and expence of keeping up the garrifon,
without deriving any material advantage
from it, had come to a refolution to evacu
ate it before the emperor's attack, and for
that purpofe had actually began to embark
their goods and property. As, however,
the emperor was determined to exhibit
fome fpecimen of his military prowefs and
addrefs, this circumftance did not deter
him from commencing a regular fiege. A
magazine for military flores (which may
be feen from the road) was raifed with the
Utmoft expedition, and the attack was car ried

-S A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
ried on with all the vigour and ability
which his Moorifh majefty was capable
of exerting. The Portugueze defended the
town no longer than was neceffary to allow
time to carry away their effects and valu
ables ; it was then furrendered, or more
properly, abandoned, to the Moors.
On the day of our arrival at Saffi we
paffed by the ruins of a town, which was
once large and confiderable. It was built
by a former emperor, named Mule Y OcoM
Mon sor, and is now called by the name of
Dyn Medina Rab^ea. Its only remains
at prefent are remarkably thick and ex
tenfive walls, which inclofe gardens and
huts, inhabited by difbanded Negro fol
diers. Saffi is a fea-port town, fituated at the
bottom of a fteep and high mountain. It
is a fmall place, and is only remarkable for
a neat palace, which is the occafional refi-
dence of the emperor's fons, and a fmall
fort at a little diftance to the north of the
town. Its vicinity is a mixture of moun
tains and woods, which gives it a wild and
truly romantic appearance. Saffi carried on

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 79
on a confiderable commerce with Europe,
before Sidi Mahomet obliged the Euro
pean merchants to refide at Mogodore.
It affords a fafe road for fhipping, except
when the "wind blows hard at Weft, and
then they are fubjedt to be driven on
fhore. During my refidence in this town I took
up my quarters at a Jewifh houfe, and was
vifited by two Moors who had been in Lon
don, and could fpeak a little- of the Englifh
language. Among other marks of atten
tion, they contrived to procure, unknown
to , me, a chair and a fmall table, articles
which I had not {ten fince I left Tan
gier, except at the French conful's houfe,
as the Moors never make ufe of either.
At eight in the morning of the 16 th we
fet off for Mogodore, a journey of about
fixty miles, which we performed in two
days. Soon after leaving Saffi we paffed over
a very high and dangerous mountain. The
rocky, fteep, and rugged path, which was
only broad enough to allow one mule to paft?
at a time, and the perpendicular precipice
1 which

So A TOUR. TO. MOROCCO, Wc
which hung over the fea, filled our minds.
with a fenfe of terror and awe, which no
pen can defcribe. Our mules, however^
accuftomed to this mode of travelling, car
ried us with the moft perfect fafety over parts
where, with European, horfes, we fhould.
probably have been dafhed to pieces.
'From this mountain we in a . fhort . time
entered a foreft of dwarf oaks, which is
about fix miles in length, and the fouthern.
extremity of which reaches to the river
Tansif. This is a very broad river, which;,
after the heavy rains have, fallen, or when,
fwelled by the tide, is always . paffed upon
rafts j Thofe difficulties not .. .presenting
themfelves to us now, we forded the river
with great eafe, and on approaching its;
fouthern fide, obferved in ,the midft of a-,
th ick foreft. a large fquare caftle, which my
foldiers. inforrrrecTrne. was built, by Muley
Ishmael, whq is immortalized by the pen
of Mr. Addifon, in.one.of. the. numbers o£
the Freeholder. Sidi Mahomet neglected
it, and ft is now falling to ruin. ...The breadth
and windings pf the Tansif, -.its, high .and,
woody banks, and the caftle juft difco-
8 " verable

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 81
verable through the trees, afforded altoge
ther a fcene, which though fomewhat
gloomy, yet was truly romantic and pidtu
refque. ' The directions which I had received
from Mr. Matra were, to continue at Mo
godore, till the return of a meffenger, who
was to be difpatched thence to Taru
dant, informing the prince of my ar
rival. The very hofpitable treatment I experi
enced from Mr. Hutchifon, Britifh vice-
conful at Mogodore, during my ftay at his
houfe, with the fympathifing letters and
friendly advice with which he afterwards
favoured me, whilft under the many embar-
raffmentsandinconveniencies which I under
went at Morocco, have made the moft for
cible impreffion on my memory; and I fhould
feel utterly diffatisfied with myfelf if I
omitted thus publicly to acknowledge my
gratitude to that gentlemani
Before I proceed to defcribe Mogodore,
it may not be improper to take a fhort re
view of the general appearanpr^f the coun -
G try

Si A TOUR TO MOROCCO", Wc.
try through which I paffed in my journey
from Tangier.
The firft part of the journey, as far as
Larache, prefented to us, as- I before
obferved, a rocky, mountainous, and barren
country, and, if we except the foreft of
Rabe a Clow, but few trees or fhrubs.
From Larache to Sallee the eye was
agreeably relieved by the variety of objects
which offered themfelves to its view. The
evennefs of the ground, the numerous lakes,
and the verdure which furrounded them,
indicated fully the fertility of the foil, and
thefe, joined to the interfedted clumps of
trees, would lead the contemplative mind to
conceive that nature had intended this fpot
for the refidence of a more civilized people
than its prefent inhabitants. From Sallee
to Mogodore, and thence to Sant A
Cruz, we again meet with the fame bar-
fen, mountainous, and rocky country, which
prefented itfelf at the firft part of the
journey. Though I occafionally met with forefts'
of fmall trees^ fuch as the arga, the dwarf
oak, the palm-tree, 6cc. yet the country
produces

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 83
produces no ufeful timber whatever. The
Moors are therefore obliged to import that
article from Europe; and it may be on this
account that the emperor poffeffes fo few
veffels, and is obliged to fend thofe to be
repaired in foreign ports. As vegetation
does not take place in this climate till fome
time after the heavy rains have fallen, I had
not an opportunity of obferving in this
journey what plants were peculiar to the
climate. The variety which diftinguifhes
the more improved countries of Europe, and
particularly England, probably arifes as much
from the land being diftributed into enclo-
fures, as from local fituation. This advan
tage the Empire of Morocco does not en
joy ; fince, excepting in the immediate vici
nity of towns, no divifions of land are to be
obferved; the Arabs indifcriminately chuf-
ing pieces of ground, without fences, for
the purpofes of agriculture, which* as I be
fore noticed, they change as occafion re
quires. The famenefs of fcene which ari
fes from this circumftance, is in forne de
gree leffened by the numerous fanctuaries
which are diffufed over the whole country ;
G 2 but

S+ A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
but otherways thefe chapels prove trouble-
fome to an European traveller, fince the
Moors, upon paffing them, always flop acon-
fiderable time to pay their devotions to the
remains of the faints who are buried there.
There is likewife a cuftom in this country,
which is alfo prevalent in Portugal, of con-
fecrating the fpot on which any perfon has
been murdered, by heaping a large proportion
of ftones on the place, where it is ufual for
thofe who pafs that way to add another ftone
to the number, and to recite a fhort prayer
adapted to the occafion.
All the towns through which I paffed in
my way hither, were furrounded with high
walls of Tabby, flanked with fquare forts*
generally without any artillery, and having
caftles, which feemed to be in a very ruinous
ftate, fituated upon the moft eminerit fpot,
for their defence or attack. The houfes,
from having no windows and but very few
doors, fiad jv-ore the appearance of dead
walls than inhabited places; and their ftreets
were univerfally narrow, filthy to a degree,
irregular, and badly paved. With all thefe
inconyeniencies, the inhabitants enjoy an
¦. ,. advantage

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 85
advantage of which many of the more civi
lized capitals of Europe cannot boaft, I mean
that of a good police. The ftreets are fo
well watched at night, that robberies or even
houfebreaking are but feldom heard of ; and
the general quietnefs which reigns through
their towns after the gates are fhut, is a
convincing proof of the attention of their
patroles to their duty. Their detection, and
fpeedy bringing to juftice the criminals,
likewife deferves our attention. From hav
ing no public houfes or other places to har
bour thieves, and from no perfon being per
mitted to quit the country without leave,
it is utterly impoffible for a culprit to efcape
the hand of juftice, except by taking re
fuge in a fanctuary, by which he banifh.es
himfelf for ever from fociety. On the other
hand, the vigilance of the governors and
other officers of juftice is fo great, and con
duced with fo much addrefs, that unlefs the
means of fafety which his religion points
out are quickly adopted, the criminal in a
very fhort time is detected, and as quickly
punifhed. According to the opinion of fome travel
lers, much danger is to be apprehended in
G 3 traverfing

86 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
traverfing this country, from the attacks of
wild beafts ; but it is only juftice to obferve,
that during the whole of my progrefs ta
Mogodore, and indeed I may add after
wards in pafling over the Atlas, I met
with no obftrudtion or moleftation whatever
from thefe animals ; and I was alfo informed,
that a circumftance of the kind was very
rarely known to have happened. The fact
is, the wild animals confine themfelves prin
cipally to the interior parts of the country,,
and to thofe retreats in the mountains which
are beyond the track of men.
Mogodore, fo named by Europeans, and
Suera by the Moors, is a large, uniform,
and weli-built town* fituated about three
hundred and fifty miles from Tangier, on
the Atlantic ocean, and furrounded on the
land fide by deep and heavy fands. It was
railed under the aufpices of Sidi Maho
met, who upon his acceffion to the throne
ordered all the European merchants who
were fettled in his dominions to refide at
Mogodore, where, by lowering the duties,
he promifed to afford every encouragement
to commerce. The Europeans, thus obliged
to defert their former eftablifhments, confi-
dering

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 87
dering this firft ftep of* the emperor to be a
mark of his attachment to trade and com
merce, and having refided long in the coun-r
try without any better views at home, uni-
verfally fettled at Mogodore, where they
eredted houfes, and other conveniencies for
the purpofes of trade. The hopes, however,
with which they had changed their fituation,
were confiderably fruftrated by the perfidy
of the emperor, who indeed fulfilled his
promife, till he obferved the merchants fo
fixed as not to be likely to remove ; but he;
then began to increafe the duties, and by that
means to damp the fpirit of commerce which
he had promifed tp promote. . His caprice,
however, or, what had ftill more influence,
valuable prefents, induced him at rimes to
relax thefe feveritjes. In confequence pf
this circumftance the duties have been fp
frequently varied, that it it utterly imppf-
fible for me to ftate, with any degree of
certainty, the ufual burthens laid upon arti
cles of commerce in this port.
The factory at Mogodore confifts of
about a dozen mercantile houfes of different
nations, whofe owners, from the protection
G 4 granted.

88 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
granted them by the emperor, live in full
fecurity from the Moors, whom indeed they
keep at a rigid diftance. They export to
America, mules. To Europe, Morocco
leather, hides, gum arabic, gum fandark,
oftrich feathers, copper, wax, wool, ele
phants' teeth, fine mats, beautiful carpeting,
dates, figs, raifins, olives, almonds, oiUj&c.
In return they import timber, artillery, of
all kinds, gunpowder, woollen cloths, li
nens, lead, iron in bars, all kinds, of hard
ware and trinkets, fuch as looking-glaffes,
fnuff-boxes, watches, fmall knives, &c. tea,
fugar, fpices, and moft of the ufeful articles
which are not otherwife to be procured in
this empire. •¦,,, ,
Befides the commerce carried on between;
this empire and, Europe, the Moors have
alfo a trade with Guinea, Algiers, Tunis,
Tripoli, Grand Cairo, ^nd Mecca, by
means of their caravans, of which I foon
fhall have occafion to fpeak more particur
larly. Mogodore is regularly fortified on the
fea fide ; and on the land, batteries are fo
placed as to prevent any incurfion from the
Southern Arabs, who are of a turbulent
difpofition,

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc, 8$
difpofition, and who, from the great wealth
which is known to be always ih Mogodore,
would gladly avail tLemfeives of any oppor
tunity that offered to pillage the 'town.
The entrance, both by fea and land, con
fifts of elegant ftone arch-ways, with double
gates. The market-place is handfomely
built, with piazzas of the fame materials,
and at the water port there is a cuftom-houfe
and powder magazine, both of; which are
neat ftone buildings. Befide thefe public
edifices, the emperor has a fmallbut hand
fome palace for his occafiohal refidence.
The ftreets of the town, though very har
row, are all in ftrait lines,' "arid the "houfes,
contrary to what we meet w'ith in the
other towns of the empire, are lofty "and
regular. The bay, which is little better
thin a road, and is very much expofed when
the wind is at North- Weft, is formed by a
curve in the* land, and a fmall ifiand about
a quarter of a mile from the fhore.' Its en-
trance is defended by a fort well mounted
with guns'. ¦ ,

CHAP.

90 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc

CHAP. IV.

General View of the Empire ^Morocco.
— Situation and filimate. — Provinces. — >
Soil. — Wonderful Fertility. — Sea Ports.
— Natural ProduBions. — ¦ Mintes. — i- Ani
mals. — Occaftonal Famines. — Famine in,
1778. — MamfaBures, — Buildings. — .
Roads. — Population. — IntroduBion of Ne
groes.— 'Muley Ishmael-t- his Policy.
Sidi Mahomet. — -General ' Oppreffion of
the People. — Merchants.
AS I had a better opportunity of being
informed cf the ftate of the country,
and its productions, from the European
merchants at Mogodore, than occurred
at any fubfequent period during my tour,
I fhall now avail myfelf of that information ;
and to this I feel myfelf induced by a fur
ther motive, namely, that it will enable.
the reader to perufe with more fatisfadtion
and advantage the fucceeding pages of this,
Narrative. 8 The

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc $f
The empire of Morocco is fituated be
tween the 29th and 36th degree of North
latitude. It is about five hundred and
fifty miles in length from North to South,
and about two hundred in breadth. It is
bounded to the North hy the Straits of
Gibraltar and the Mediterranean fea $
to the Eaft, by the kingdoms of Treme-
cen and Sugulmussa; tp the South, by
the river Suz, and the country to the South
of Tafilet ; and to the Weft, by the
Atlantic ocean. The empire is formed of
feveral provinces and nominal kingdoms,
which, as in moft countries, before their
union were diftindt and petty fovereignties.
The climate, though in the Southern
provinces very hot in the months of June,
July, and Auguft, yet is in general friendly
to the conftitutions of its inhabitants, as
well as to thofe of Europeans. To the
North the climate is nearly the fame as
that of Spain and Portugal, with the au
tumnal and vernal rains peculiar to thofe
countries ; but to the Southward, the rains
are lefs. general and certain, and pf courfe
the heat is more exceffive. Moft

92 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
Moft of the towns which Europeans
ire allowed to enter, being fea- ports, have
the advantage ofbeing frequently refrefhed
with fea breezes; and Mogodore, though
fo far to the Sputhward, from being fubjedt
in the fummer feafon to have the wind re
gularly at North Weft, is quite as cool as the
more temperate climates of Europe, Mo
rocco and Tarudant are inland, and
therefore, though nearly in the fame degree
of latitude as Mogodore, are much hotter ;
their great heats,^ however, are confiderably
leffened by their vicinity to the Atlas, the
higher parts of which are the, whole year
covered with fnow, and often favour them
with cool and refreshing breezes.
The foil ofthe empire of .Morocco is
naturally very fertile, and with proper cul
tivation and attention is capable of pro
ducing all the luxuries of the Eaftern and
Weftern worlds. It muft; however, be
confeffed, that on fome parts of the fea-
coaft, particularly where it is mountainous,
like every other country under fimilar cir
cumftances, the foil is fandy and barren;
but wherever there is. the leaft appearance
of a plain, fuch as that between Larache and

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 93
and Mamora, and in. the neighbourhood
of Morocco and Tarudant, the foil is
black and rich. Indeed I am informed from
the beft authority, that at Tafilet, and
throughout moft of the interior part? of
the empire, its fertility is beyond imagi
nation. From the flight cultivation it at prefent
receives, which is merely the burning of
the ftubble before the autumnal rains come
on, and ploughing it about fix inches deep,
the earth produces, at a very early feafon,
excellent wheat and barley, though no oats,
Indian corn, alderoy, beans, peafe, hemp,
and flax; oranges, lemons, citrons, , pome
granates, melons, water- melons, olives, figs,
almonds, grapes, dates, apples, pears, cher
ries, plumbs, and in fact all the fruits to
be found in the Southern provinces of Spain
and Portugal. The people here preferve
!<itheir grain in matamores, holes made in
the earth, lined and covered with ftraw, on
which earth is placed in a pyramidal form,
to prevent the rain from foaking in. In
thefe flores corn has been kept five or fix
years, without undergoing any very material
change. As

54 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
As little encouragement, however, is ex
tended to induftry in this country, many of
their fruits which require attention, par
ticularly their grapes, apples, pears, plumbs,
6cc. do not arrive at that perfection td
which they are brought in Europe; Could;
indeed, a proper fpirit for agriculture and
foreign cofnmefce be introduced in the
Country, or, in other words, could the fove-
reign be perfuaded, that by fuffering his
fubjedts to be enriched he would improve
his own treafury, this empire, from its
convenient fituation with refpect to Europe*
and from the natural luxuriance and fertility
of its foil, might become of the higheft
political and commercial importance. The
only material impediment to commerce is
the inconvenience and infecurity of the
ports. I am well informed -, however, that
at ValeDia there is a bafon fbrmed by
nature, capable of containing with fafety
any number of fhipping; and the ofhef
ports might moft probably be improved.
It is melancholy, in traverfing the im
menfe tract of fo fine a country, to obferve
fo much land lying wafte and uncultivated,
which by a very little attention would be
capable

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wt. 95
fcapable of producing an inexhauftible trea
sure to its inhabitants. From this repre-
fentation it would fcarcely be fuppofed
credible* that Spain, which is alfo a fine
country, and a civilized nation, fhould be
obliged to remit to the emperor very large
prefents of money, to induce him to allow
his fubjedts to export corn, as well as moft
other kinds of provifions and fruits, from
Tangier and Tetuan. Indeed the
Southern provinces of Spain can hardly exift
Without this fupply. To what are we to
attribute this circumftance ? Is it that
Morocco is fo much more fertile than
Spain, that it produces a redundance with
fcarcely any cultivation; or is the indolence
of the Spaniards fuperior to that of the
Moors themfelves ?
The Jews in moft of the towns of the
empire make wine; but, either owing to
the grapes not being in fuch perfection as
thofe of Europe, or to an improper mode
of preparing it, its flavour proves- but very
indifferent. They alfo diftil a fpecies of
brandy from figs and raifins, well known
in that country by the .name of aquadent*
This liquor has a difagreeable tafte, but in
point

96 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
point of ftrength is little inferior to fpirits
of wine. It is drank without dilution very
freely by the Jews on all their feafts or
days, of rejoicing, and there are very few
of the Moors who are difpofed to forego
any private opportunity of taking their
fhare of it alfo.
The Moors cultivate tobacco ; there is a
fpecies of it near Mequinez, which affords
fnuff, the flavour of which is very little
inferior to Maccaba. In my progrefs
through the country I have noticed forefts
of oak trees of a dwarf kind, which bear
acorns of remarkable fize and fweet tafte.
To the Southward we meet with the palm
or date tree, the arga; bearing a nut of the
almond fpecies, with the olive, from both
of which the inhabitants extract great quan
tities of oil, which conftitutes a confiderable
part of their exports to foreign countries.
There is alfo an infinite variety of fhrubs
and plants, fuch as the prickly pear, the
aloe, &c. ail in fhort that are to be found
in Soain and Portugal. Cotton, wax, ho-
ney, fait, tranfparent gum, and gum fanda-
rac, are all productions of this empire.
In the mountains of Atlas there are
numerous iron mines"; but as the Moors do
not

a tour to morocco, We. '27
hot underftand the mode of working iron,
thofe mi nes -prove of no ufe to them, and
they are therefore obliged to procure that
article from Europe. The neighbourhood
of Tarudant produces mines of cop
per; and the Moors affert, that in the
Atlas there are alfo fome of goid and
filver, which the emperor1 will not allow to
be touched. But I am inclined to iriiagine
that ifthe affertion had any foundation in
truth, the Br'ebes, who inhabit thefe moun
tains, and who are mere nominal fubjedts,
and pay 'but little refpect to the government
of Morocco, would long before this time
have difcovered them. It is, however, pro
bable that this vaft chain of mountains
may contain productions which might be
converted to very valuable purpofes; but,
owing to a want of emulation on the part
of the inhabitants, and Europeans not be
ing allowed to attempt any new difcoveries,
a knowledge of them is not to be at
tained. The domeftic animals of Morocco are
much the fame as thofe of Europe, except
ing the camel, which is the moft ufeful
animal in this quarter of the globe, both
H on

98 A TOUR TO MOROCCO; Wc.
on account of the great fatigue which it is
capable of undergoing, and the little fub-
fiftence it requires. Camels are employed
here for all the purpofes of agriculture and
commerce, and are very numerous. It has
been aflerted that dromedaries are indige
nous to this country; but in the courfe of
my whole tour I could hear of none, ex
cept thofe which are in the poffeffion of
the emperor; and he, as I difcovered, pror
cures them from the coaft of Guinea.
Thefe are the fleeteft animals for travelling
that are known, and are only ufed by the
emperor upon urgent occafions. I was in
formed that their pace is fometimes fo ex
ceedingly fwift, that their riders are obliged
to tie a fafh round their waifts to preferve
the power of refpiration, and cover the
whole of the face except the eyes, to pre
vent their fuffering from the ftrong current
of air occafioned by the rapid motion of
the animal. It is computed that, in an ordi
nary way, a dromedary will perform a journey
of five hundred miles in four days.
The oxen and fheep of this country are
fmall; but their flefh is well flavoured.
The hides of the former, and the wool of
the.

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. $9
the latter, are both articles of exportation.
The fheep with large tahV, diftinguifhed in
England by the name of Barbary fheep, are
here very fcarce, and are more indigenous
to the Eaftern parts of Barbary. The
horfes, for want of attention in keeping up
the breed* are much lefs valuable than they
formerly were ; there are ftill however fome
few that are good in the country, and thofe
are generally ftrong, and have great fpirit.
The mules are numerous and ufeful, though
I do not think them equal to thofe of
Spain, either in fize or beauty.
- Fowls and pigeons are remarkably plen
tiful and good in the empire of Morocco j
but ducks are fcarce, and geefe and tufkies
I never faw there. The country abounds
with the red-legged partridge. In the"
proper feafon the frankolin, a bird of the
partridge fpecies, of a delicious flavour, and
beautiful plumage, is found here ; alfo a
few woodcocks, fnipes in great numbers,
all kinds of water-fowl, and a variety of
fmall finging-birds. Storks are very plen
tiful, and as they are never molefted by the
Moors, who are taught to believe it finful
to deftroy them, they become quite do-
H ' 2 meftic.

too A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
meftic and tame. They are generally to be
ken feeding among ruinous walls and
caftles, where they pick up infects and
fnakes. Hares, rabbits, antelopes, porcu
pines, apes, foxes, wild cats, &c. are all
natives of this empire.
Among the ferocious animals may be
enumerated wolves and wild boars, which
are fpread over the whole empire ; and in
the fouthern provinces there .are lions, ty
gers, and monftrous ferpents.
During my refidence in the country, I
had frequent opportunities of examining
that moft fingular of the animal produc
tions, the cameleon. Though it is hardly.
neceffary to adduce any proof to the phi-
lofophers of the prefent day againft the
vulgar error, that it feeds only upon air,
yet it may afford fome fatisfadtion to my
readers to be told, that I had an opportu
nity of feeing a complete refutation of this
opinion at Mogodore. A gentleman of
my acquaintance there had in his poffeffion
a cameleon, the dexterity of which in pro
curing its food I had ample means of ob
ferving. The fadt is, its principal fupport
is flies, which it catches by darting at
4 them

A TOM TO MOROCCO, Wc ioi
them an exceedingly long tongue, covered
with a matter fo very glutinous, that if it
but touches an infect it is impoffible for it
to efcape. The moft fingular part of its
conformation however (if, perhaps, we ex
cept the power of varying its colours) is the
eye, the mufcles of which are fo con-
ftrudted that it can move the ball quite
round; and I believe it exifts the only
known inftance in all animated nature of a
creature which is able to direct its vifion to
two different objects at the fame time,
however thofe objedts may be fituated.
Except in the act of darting out its tongue
to procure fubfiftence, its motions are re
markably flow.
Although it muft be allowed that the
climate of Morocco is delightful to a de
gree, yet it is occafionally fubjedt to great
droughts, which naturally produce immenfe
fwarms of locufts, the moft deftrudtive
enemy to vegetation that exifts. In the
year 1778' thefe infedts came in fuch num
bers from the South, that they perfectly
darkened the air, and, by deftroying all the
corn, produced a general famine. This
calamity was increafed to fuch a degree in
H 3 the

io? A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wt.
the year 1780, that feveral unfortunate
perfons adlually died in the ftreets for want
of food ; many were driven to the necef-
fity of digging in the earth for roots to
fupply the urgent calls of nature; while
others were happy to find fome undigefted
corn in the dung of animals, which they
moft eagerly devoured- Upon this occa-
fion of public diftrefs the emperor gene-
roufly opened his ftore of corn, and diftri-
buted it, as well as money, among his fub
jedts ; and every perfon who was known tp
poffefs flores was obliged to follow his ex- ,
ample. Thefe melancholy facts are fo re
cent in the memory of the people, that tiiey
ftill repeat them to the Europeans who
vifit the country.
The manufactures of the empire are the
haick, which, as was before obferved,, is,
a long garment compofed of white wool
and cotton, or cotton and filk woven toge- ,
ther, and is ufed by the Moors for the pur
pofe of covering their under drefs when
they go abroad, which they do by totally
wrapping themfelves in it in a carelefs but
eafy manner; filk handkerchiefs of a par
ticular

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. ioj
ticular kind, prepared only at Fez; filks'
checquered with cotton ; carpeting, little
inferior to that of Turkey; beautiful mat
ting, made of the palmetto or wild palm-
tree; paper df a coarfe kind; Cordovan,
commonly called Morocco leather; gun
powder of an inferior nature ; and long-
barrelled mufquets, made of Bifcay iron.
The Moors are unacquainted with the
mode of calling cannon, and therefore thcfs
few which are now in the country are pre
fents from Europeans. The manufacture
of glafs is likewife unknown to them; as
indeed they make great ufe of earthen ware,
and have few or no windows to their
houfes, this, commodity may be of lefs im
portance to them than many others. They
make butter; by putting the milk into a
goat- fkin with its outward ccat turned in
wards, and making it till the butter collects
on the fides, when it is taken out for ufe.
From this operation3 it proves always full
of hairs, and has an infipid flavour: Their
cheefe confifts merely of curds - hardened
aricf dried, and has uniformly a difagreeable
taftei The bread in fome ofthe principal
H 4 towns,

104 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wt.
towns, particularly at Tangier and Sal
lee, is remarkably good, but in many
Other places it is coarfe, black, and heavy.
Their markets are under more ftrict re
gulations than might be expected from a
people who are fo deficient in moft other
inftances. A proper officer, entitled Al-
motason, or Mayor, is appointed to in-
fpect all kinds of provifions and corn, and,
according to their plenty or fcarcity, to fix
the price on each article : it is alfo the
duty of this pfficer to attend conftantly the
markets, and to fee that no perfon is guilty
of overcharging what he fells, for which,
upon detection, the offender is punifhed, by
having his hands tied behind him, and be
ing publicly flogged through all the ftreets,
the executioner occafionally exclaiming,
," Thus do we treat thofe who impofe upon
the poor." Provifions both of the animal
and vegetable kind are fold by the Rtab,
or large pound, confifting of the weight of
twenty hard dollars, or Spanifh ounces';
corn, by the Almppd, four of which are
equal to a Fan eg Spanifh, or fack; and
articles of merchandize, by the fmall
pound of fixteen Spanifh ounces, when fold

A'^TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 10,5
fold by weight ; and by the Code, which is
about two thirds of an Englifh yard, when
hy measurement.
The Moors, agreeably to the JeWifh
cuftom, cut -the throats of all the animala
they eat, at the fame time turning their
heads towards Mecca, in adoration of their
prophet. After fuffering them to bleed
freely, they carefully wafh all the remain-?
irig blood away, and divide the meat into
fisaall pieces of about one or two pounds in
weight. As they are unacquainted with
the invention of pumps, and have but few
fprings, it affords employment to a number
of indigent people, who would probably
be idle otherwife, to carry water in fkins
from the neareft river or refervoir, and fell
jt to the inhabitants. From their being
obliged to tar- the fkins to prevent them,
from leaking, the water is frequently ven-
dered very unpleafant.
Their looms, forges, ploughs, carpenter's
tools, &c. are much upon the fame con-
ftrudripn with the unimproved inftruments
of the fame kind which are ufed at this
time in fome parts of Europe, only ftill
more clumfily finifhed. In their work,

io(S A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
they attend more to ftrength than neatnefs
or convenience, and, like all other ignorant
people they have no idea that what they do
is capable of improvement. It is pro
bable, indeed, that the Moors have under
gone no very material change fince the re
volution in their arts and fciences which
took place foon after their expulfion from
Spain. Previous to that period it is well
known they were an enlightened people,
at a time when the greater part of Europe
was involved in ignorance and barbarifm ;
but bwing to the weaknefs and tyranny of
their princes, they gradually funk into the
very oppofite extreme, and may now be
confidered as but a few degrees removed
from a favage ftate.
They ufe no kind of wheel-carriage, and
therefore all their articles of burden are
tranfported from one place to another on
camels, mules, or affes. Their buildings,
though by no means conftructed on any
fixed principle of architecture, have at leaft
the merit of being very ftrong and durable.
The manner of preparing tabby, of which
all their beft edifices are formed, is, I be*
lieve, the only remains pf their ancient
knowledge

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 107
knowledge at prefent exifting. It confifts
of a mixture of mortar and very fmall
ftones, beaten tight in a wooden cafe, and
fuffered to dry, when it forms a cement
equal to the folid rock. There are always
unaccountable difcrepancies and inconfif-
tencies in the arts of uncivilized nations.
The apartments are, if poffible, even more
inconvenient than thofe of their neighbours
the Spaniards ; but the carved wood-work
with which many of them are ornamented
is really equal to any I have ever feen in
Europe. The Moors have no idea of making high
roads, or repairing thofe which have been
formed by the ancient poffeflbrs of the
country, or perhaps by the mere refort of
pafTengers, but are content to leave them in
the fame ftate in which they found them.
Indeed, they are even incapable of compre
hending the fimple fadt — that by improving
the roads travelling would become more ex
peditious, and lefs expenfive.
If we look for any of the elegant appen
dages of luxury and refinement in this
country, we fhall be grievoufly difappointed.
Their gardens are mere tracts of inclofed ground,

*o8 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
ground, over-run with weeds, interfperfed
with vines, figs, oranges, and lemons, with
out tafte or difpofition, and having perhaps
one ftrait walk through the whole. They
fometimes fow corn in the intermediate
ground ; but their gardens are rarely pro
ductive of efculent vegetables, and feldorn
or never ornamented With flowers.
As there are few or no bridges in the
country, I am inclined to believe the Moors
are not thoroughly acquainted with the
mode of conftfucting large arches ; and it
is only at their fea-ports where they even
ufe boats. Thefe circumftances, united to
the bad roads, render this part of Barbary
very inconvenient and dangerous to be tra
velled through.
The country throughout is ill- watered.
Moft of the rivers, which however are
very few, in proportion to the extent of
ground, except juft at their fea-ports, de-
ferve only the name of rivulets, and in the
fummer feafon are many of them dried up.
From all thefe circumftances it may be con
jectured that the population is not extra
ordinary. When on my return, in my
journey from Morocco to Sallee, which
required

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 109
required feven days to accomplifh, I met
with no habitations but a few Arab tents
fcattered in different parts ; and I had rea
fon to believe that a great part of the inte
rior country is nearly in a fimilar fituation.
The towns are very few, in proportion, to
the extent of country, and thofe are but
thinly inhabited. Indeed Morocco, which
is a metropolis, has many of its houfes in
ruins and uninhabited.
The want of population in the empire of
Morocco at this period may have heen
occafioned, in fome degree, by the enor
mous cruelties exercifed by its former fove-
reigns, who have been known not unfre-
quently, through a flight difguft, to aban
don a whole town or province to the fword.
In the character of Muley Ishmael,
grandfather to Sidi Mahomet, we find the
moft fingular inconfiftencies : for it is cer
tain, that- although a tyrant of the clafs
which I have been defcribing, yet in other
refpects, as if to repair the mifchief which
he committed, he left nothing undone for
the encouragement of population. He in
troduced large colonies of Negroes from
Guinea, built towns for them, many of
which

no A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
which are ftill remaining, afligned them
portions of land, and encouraged their in-
creafe by evefy poffible means. He foon
initiated them in the Mahometan faith, and,
had his plan been followed, the country by
this time would have been populous, and
probably fiourifhing. As the Negroes are
of a more lively, active, and enterprizing
difpofition than the Moors, they might
foon have been taught the arts of agricul
ture, and their fingular ingenuity might
have been directed to other ufeful pur-
pofes. It is true MuLey Ishmael, when he
adopted this plan, had more objects in view
than that of merely peopling his domi
nions : he faw plainly that his own fubjedts
were of too capricious a difpofition to form
foldiers calculated for his tyrannical pur^
pofes. They had uniformly manifefted an
inclination to change their fovefeigns,
though more from the love of variety than
to reform the government, or reftrain the
abufes of tyranny. In fhort, whatever re
volutions took place in the country, con-
fifted merely in a change of one tyrant for
another. Muley Ishmael had difcern- ment

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. in
ment enough to fee, therefore, that, by
forming an army of flaves, whofe fole de
pendence fhould reft upon their mafter, he
could eafily train them in fuch a manner as
to act in the ftricteft conformity to his
wifhes, He foon learnt that the great ob
ject with the N^egroes was plenty of money,
and liberty of plunder ; in thefe he liberally
indulged them, and the plan fully anfwered
his expectations.
Though, however, Muley Ishmael
had no great merit in introducing fubjedts.
for the purpofes of tyranny, yet the good
effects of this new colonization were very
generally experienced. By intermarrying
among themfelves, and intermixing among
the Moors (for the Moors will keep Negro
women as concubines, though they feldom
marry them) a new race of people ftarted
up, who became as ufeful fubjedts as the
native inhabitants, and brought the empire
into a much more flourifbing ftate than it had
ever been in fince their great revolution.
Sidi Mahomet had different views,
and was adtuated , by different mo
tives. , Frorn his inordinate avarice, he
ceafecb to act towards his Black trcops in

M2 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
in the generous manner which had diftin^
guifhed his predeceffor Muley Ishmael;
and they foon fhewed themfelves difcon-
tented with his conduct. They frequently
threatened to revolt, and fupport thofe of
his fons who were in oppofition, and who
promifed them the moft liberal rewardst
They offered to place his eldeft fon Mu
ley AlIj who is fince dead, on the throne;
but this prince, riot unmindful of the duty
which he owed his father and fovereign,
declined their offer. They next applied to
Muley Yazid, the late emperor, who
at firft accepted of the affiftance they ten
dered, but in a fhort time relinquifhed the
plan. Sidi Mahomet, difgufted with this con
duct ofthe Negroes, determined to curb their
growing power, by difbanding a confiderable
part of thefe troops, and banifhing them to
diftant parts of the empire. This impor
tant mode of population has therefore been
of late years neglected, while no better
fyftem has been fubftituted in its room ;
for though the late emperor indulged in
cruelty much lefs frequently than his pre-
deceffors, yet population Ms, perhaps, been
more

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. n3
more completely impeded by the general
poverty which he has introduced into the
country by his fevere exactions, than if he
had made a liberal ufe of the fword or of
the bow-ftring. To acquaint Sidi Ma
homet that any of his fubjedts were rich,
was equivalent to telling him that he had
fo many ambitious opponents, who by their
wealth would fupport his fons in rebel
lion, which it was neceffary. to prevent, by
depriving them of thofe riches.
The only maxim of government there
fore adopted by this monarch was to keep
his fubjedts as nearly as poffible upon a
level; that is, in a ftate of poverty. This
he moft effectually accomplished. No man
who had property one day could with cer
tainty call it is own the next. The moft
devoted mifers, with their utmoft ingenuity,
were unable to evade the difcovery of their
treafures. If the victim of tyranny mani-
fefted any reluctance to reveal to his inqui-
fitors the facred depository of his hoarded
wealth, the emperor feldom hefitated about
the means of compulfion. The fortitude
of feveral enabled them to refill - every tor-
I ture

n+ A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
ture fhort of death ; but the love of life
was always found to prevail over even
• avarice itfelf.
But this perhaps was not the worft ; the
heavy taxes and duties impofed by this im
politic monarch impeded commerce, and
difcouraged manufactures ; and on the whole
I am inclined to believe that the country
was never in a greater ftate of poverty than
during his reign.
Power and weaknefs, rank and meannefs,
opulence and indigence, are here equally
dependent, equally uncertain. There are
inftances of the fultan elevating at once a
common foldier to the rank of a bafhaw,
or making him a confidential friend ; the
following day he would perhaps imprifon
him, or reduce him again to the ftation of a
private foldier. It is furprizing that men
under thefe circumftances fhould be am
bitious of rank, or defirous of riches and
power. Yet fuch is the difpofition of thefe
people, that they have an unbounded thirft
for rank and power with all their uncer
tainties; and, what is more extraordinary,
when they have obtained a high ftation they
feldom

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 115
feldom fail to - afford their fovereign a plea
for ill-treating them, by abufing, in fome
way or other, their truft.
The only independent people in the
country, if it be at all lawful to make ufe
of the expreffion when fpeaking of Mo
rocco, are to be found among the mer
chants, who refide in towns at fome diftance
from the feat of government. The neat-
nefs of their houfes and gardens, the fur
niture of their apartments, their rich dif-
play of china and glafs, and their liberal
treatment of ftrangers, their better educa
tion, and more enlightened ideas, all ferve
to point them out as a clafs of beings diffe
rent from the reft.
I wifh this defcription would apply ge
nerally to all the people in trade; but I
am fiorry to add it does not : it is con
fined to a particular clafs of merchants,
who tranfadt bufinefs upon a very large
fcale. Even thefe, however, though dif
tant from the feat of government, befides,
rigoroufly paying their quota of every fe-
vere tax which the emperor chufes to im-
pofe upon them, are not always exempt
from plunder. Ifthe bafhaw or Alcaide
I 2 of

u-6 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
of the town can difcover a plea for impri-
foning them, which he fometimes does
without much regard to juftice, he feldom
fails to turn it to his own advantage; and
not unfrequently difgraces his mafter's royal
name, by ufing it as a pretext for feizing
their property. — Thus the empire of Mo
rocco, in all its parts, prefents a ftriking
picture ofthe wretched policy and mifera-
ble confequences of defpotic government.

CHAP.

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 117

CHAP. V.
Journey from Mogodore to Santa Cruz.
— Some Account ofthe Origin of that Place,
— Arrival at Tarudant. — Introduc
tion to the Prince. — Defcription of his
Palace. — Singular Reception. — Accommo
dations. — State of the Prince's Health. —
Abfurd Prejudices of the Moors. — Alter
cation with the Prince. — Application from
other Patients. — The Cadi. — IntroduBion
into the Prince's Harem.— Wives of the
Prince. — State of the Female Sex in this
fecluded Situation. — Vifible Amendment in
the Prince's Complaint. — His Affability.
— CharaBer of the Prince Muley Ab
sulem,. *
I Had not refted from the fatigues of my
journey above fix days at Mogodore,
before a new fcene was opened, by the re
turn of the meffenger from Tarudant,
with orders for my immediate attendance
on my royal patient. In addition to my
I 3 former

nS A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
former party, I was allowed by the go
vernor three Negro foot - foldiers, armed
with mufkets and fabres, an elegant tent,
and a Jewifh interpreter, who was perfect
mafter of both Arabic and Englifh, and
from whom in the end I derived the moft
ufeful fervices. The Jew who had been
prefled in fo fingular a manner into my
fervice at Tangier was immediately, and
doubtlefs much to his own fatisfaction, fent
home. We performed a journey of feventy-fix
miles, from Mogodore to Santa Cruz,
in about three days, which from the former
part of this Narrative the reader will perceive
is not remarkably flow travelling in Mo
rocco, however fingular fuch a progrefs
Would appear on the level turnpikes of Eng
land. Our journey, which was on the fea-
coaft, prefented to our view one continued
expanfe of wild, mountainous, and rocky
country, and we had confequently very bad
roads. Our progrefs indeed could be com
pared to nothing but the continual afcend-
ing and defcending of a feries of rough and
uneven ftone fteps. At one place in par
ticular the defcent was fo fteep, and the
8 road

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. no.
road fo choaked up with large pieces of
ftone, that we were all obliged to.'difmount,
and walk a full mile and a half '.with the
utmoft caution and difficulty, before we
could mount again. '.&
Santa Cruz is a fea-port, fituated on
the declivity of a high and fteep mountain,
forming the Weftern termination of that
chain of mountains, which nearly divides the
emperor's dominions into two parts, fo well
known by the name of the Atlas. It
formerly belonged to the Portugueze, and
rill the acceffion of Sidi Mahomet was
the principal place whence Europeans were
allowed to trade. It is at prefent a deferred
town, with only a few houfes, which are
almoft hourly mouldering to decay. The
port appears to be much more fecure than
that of Mogodore; and from the vicinity
of Santa Cruz to the Southern provinces,
jt appears to me to be the part of the em
pire which is beft adapted to all the pur
pofes of commerce*". On
* As Sant a Cruz, before the reign of Sidi Mahomet,
was, and is ftill capable of being made of great commercial
importance to Europe; and as its origin vyill afford fome idea
I 4 how

jzo A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
On the 26th of October we departed for
Tarudant, which is diftant forty-four
miles from Santa Cruz, where in two,
days we arrived. Our journey tp this place was,
how the Portugueze came to fettle upon this coafl ; I muft,
trefpafs upon the reader's patience, while I relate, from an
eminent Spanifh author,, in what manner it was firft raifed;
as well as its fubfequent ftate while poffeffed by the Moors, in,
the year 1737, from the manufcript of an Englifh gentle
man who was refident in die country at that period.
" Agader Aguer, which the Europeans call Santa
Cruz, is a town of modern fabric ; nor can I any where
find that the fpot of ground on which it ftands was ever
actually inhabited, till the beginning ofthe fixteenth century.
Then, or very foon before, in the reign of Don Manuel,
King of Portugal, a certain Portugueze adventurer under
took to fettle there, on account of the quantity of excellent
fifh with which its bay abounded; and found means to build
himfelf a timber fort or caftle, which he garrifoned with his
followers, naming his fettlement Santa Cruz, or Holy
Crofs : his African neighbours calling it Dar al Rumi,,
or the Chriftian Houfe.
" Don Manuel foon r.fter forefeeing the great importance
of this place to the navigation of thofe feas, and to his pro~
je&ed conqueft of the weftern parts of Barbary, took it into
his own hands, reimburfing the adventurer who had founded
it all his expences, and making him other gratuities. Santa
Cruz being thus annexed to the kingdom of Portugal, it
was foon enlarged, fortified, and well inhabited; and as this
part of the world was at that time divided among feveral petty
fovereigns, generally at variance with each other, it afforded,
the new colony, as we" as many others upon the fame coaft, an-
opgortunity of eftablifhing a firm footing in the country, in.
during

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc ^
was immediately inland, being in the direc
tion, and within half a day's ride to the
South of the Atlas. We enjoyed the
whole way from Santa Cruz a fine level
road,
Cueing a number of difcontented Arabs and Moors, with a
view of revenging themfelves on their various adverfaries, to
fwear allegiance to his Portugueze Majefty.
" The affiftance which was afforded by thefe, people to the
Chriftian garrifons, enabled them to make frequent incurfions
a confiderable way up the country, plundering and feizing
upon a great number of the inhabitants, whom they fent
over to Europe as flaves. At this period, the Portugueze
had eftablifhed themfelves fo firmly on the African coaft, that
had not the family pf Sharifs ftarted up, and the attention
of thefe Chriftian adventurers been diverted to their new ac-
quifitions in America, the greateft part of the country would
in a fliort time have been compleatly depopulated, and the
Portugueze would have eftablifhed in it a permanent fove
reignty. " Thefe Sharifs, from whom the prefent royal family
of Morocco are immediately defcended, obferving the va
riance between the people and their different fovereigns, and
talcing advantage of their credulity, pretended that they
were lineally defcended from Mahomet, and that they were
fent by him to proteft his followers from the oppreffion of their
fovereigns. They foon made converts to their ftandard, and
in a fliort time eftablifhed themfelves in the fovereignty of
all the fouthern parts of Barbary. In order to add impor
tance to their government, and knowing that it would flatter
the prejudices of their fubjedts, who had been fo continually
haraffed by their1" Chriftian neighbours, they determined upon
expelling the Portugueze from Santa Cruz, and if fuc-
cefsfufe

122 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
road, through a woody and uncultivated
country. Upon my arrival at Tarudant, with
out being allowed time to difmount, I was
immediately
cefsful, to carry on their attacks againft the other Chriftian
garrifons upon the Barbary coaft.
" For this purpofe, iri the year 1536, an army of 50,000,
men, horfe and foot, was raifed with all expedition, and put
under the command of Muley Hamed al Hassan,
who with this force compleatly invefted the garrifon. After
many unfuccefsfal attacks on, the part of the Moors, Santa
Cruz atlaft owed its deftruftion to the negligence of one of
its own people ; who carrying a lighted match into the pow
der-magazine, it unfortunately blew up, and by its concuffion
made a large breach in the wall ; of which the Moors availing
themfelves, they immediately recovered their fpirits, and,
headed by their commander, haftened in force up to the
breach, before the aftonifhed Portugueze had time to apply
a proper remedy to this unforefeen accident. They now at
tacked their enemy with fo much energy, and with fuch fu«
perior numbers, that they foon reduced the garrifon, and put
every perfon in it to the fword,
"Thus did Santa Cruz fall into the hands ofthe Moors3
by whom it has ever fince been poffeffed. The lofs of this
important place proved extremely injurious to the Portu
gueze navigation to Guinea and India, by affording a har
bour to their European enemies, whofe fhips were accuftomed
to flip out from this port, and to plunder and take the Portu
gueze as they paffed by; while they fupplied thofe barba
rians with powder, cannon, and other warlike ftores, enabling
the Moors by that means, in the courfe of time, to attack the
other poffeffions of the Portugueze in Africa."
My

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 123
immediately carried to the refidence of the
prince, which is fituated about half a mile
to the South of the town. At a fhort dif
tance, the houfe, which is fmall, and was
built
My Englifh author, who dates his manufcript in January
1737, gives the following account of Santa Cruz :—
" Santa Cruz is a city of Africa, in the kingdom of
Suz, fubjedt to the Emperor of Fez and Morocco, fituated"
in a temperate air, on a mountain diftant about half a league
from the fea, in the latitude 30 deg. 35 min. North, feven
leagues from Cape de Guerra, fixty from Morocco,
one hundred and forty from Fez, and one hundred and fifty
from Meqjjinez. It is in circumference about three
quarters of a mile, of a fquare form, the four fides fronting
the four quarters of the world. On the eaft, it has a fpacious
plain of fand ; on the weft, the fea ; to the north, about the
diftance of a quarter of a mile, is a fmall village, containing
about twenty inhabitants ; and on the fouth is its entrance,
oppofite to the mount of Tylde.
" The town is encompaffed with walls defended by feven
baftions, having artillery mounted on them which carry
between four and fix pound balls ; there are alfo fome fix-
teen and twenty-four pounders, but, owing to their not having
proper perfons to work them, thofe pieces of ordnance are
fuffered to lie on the ground half buried, rendering them by
that means entirely ufelefs. The walls indeed are only cf fuffi-
cient ftrength to refift an attack from their neighbouring ene
mies, the Arabs, who have no ordnance to oppofe them with,
but they could by no means withftand even a weak cannon
ade from a regular appointed artillery.
"Santa Cruz is aplace of confiderable trade, owingto
the great quantities of copper which they procure from mines
in the neighbourhood of T a f i l e t . It is alfo plentifully ftored
with various other merchandizes, fuch as wax procured fromv
Heja

ia+ A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
built by the prince, has a great appearance
of neatnefs ; but that want of tafte and con
venience, which is univerfally the characte-
reftic of the IVfoprifh buildings, is prefently
difcernible when it is narrowly infpected. It
is compofed of tabby, and is furrounded
with a high fquare wall, which alfo enclofes,
two tolerably neat gardens, planned by an
European7 and now under the care of a
Spanifh renegado. 'The apartments, which
ijre all pn the ground-floor, are fquare and
lofty,
Heja Saxit and Morocco, the" beft in the country,
Morocco leather, yellow leather of Tafilet, almonds,
gum arabic, gum fandarac, oftrich feathers, elephants teeth,
gold dull, and fait petre, which is exported with fome difficulty,
owing to its being contraband. There are alfo other mer
chandizes of European manufacture, fuch as iron, leather
from Buenos Ayres, mufquets, fwords, and all kinds of hard
ware, &c. as well as thofe of Afia and the eaftern parts of
Africa, brought thither by caravans. The people are for the
moft part of a tawny, fun-burnt completion, fpare and lean in
body, but aftive, ftrong, and capable of undergoing any
labour orhardfhip, pretty good oeconomifts, not much addict
ed to prodigality or vanity, and are dexterous and aftive in
their trade I'.nd bufinefs." !
Such was the ftate of Santa Cruz before Sidi Maho
met ordered it to be evacuated-by the European merchants ;
and it is impoffible to read this aceountwithout being cbn-
yinced that what I have advanced, with refpeft to its imports
ance in a commercial view, rs-set beyond the truth..

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. *zt
lofty, opening into a court, in the centre of
which is a fountain. The entrance is
through a fmall arched door-way, which
leads into a court-yard, where on one fide
are a few out-houfes; on the other, the
fpace allotted for the horfes of the prince.
As the climate is open and fine, there are
few or no ftables in this country, but the
horfes are kept out in an open yard, and held
by pins fixed in the ground.
There is not much of magnificence; it
muft be confeffed, in this introduction, nor
did any thing occur to counteract the un
favourable impreffion, previous to our enter
ing the apartment of the prince. The
chamber into which I was conducted, I
found a fmall room with feats in the walls;
and there it is cuftomary for all perfons to
wait till their names are announced. I ob-,
ferved a number of fingular looking perfons
' attending here ; and as I was not much dif
pofed to make one of their company, in-
flead of fitting I amufed myfelf, as other
Europeans do, with walking about the
ropm. In this exercife, however, I was a
folitary performer; for the Moors, whatever
bp their object, whether bufinefs, ccnver-
fa tion,

125 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
fation, or amufement, are generally featedj
and indeed fo novel to them was my deport
ment in this refpect, that they concluded
I was either diffracted in my intellect, or
faying my prayers.
After being detained in this difagreeable
fituation for about an hour, orders were
brought from the prince for my immediate
introduction, with my interpreter. From
the chamber where we had been waiting, we
paffed through a long and dark entry, which
at its termination introduced us to a fquare
court-yard, floored with checquered tiling,
into which the prince's room opened, by
means of large folding-doors. Thefe were
curioufly painted of various colours, in the
form of checquers. The immediate entrance
to the room was neat ; it was a very large
arched door- way, curioufly ornamented with
checquered tiling, and forming a fmall
porch, or antichamber. The room was
lofty, fquare, and floored with checquered
tiling ; the walls ftuccced, and the ceiling
painted of various colours. Much of the
beauty of the room was loft for want pf
windows, which is a defect obfervable in
moft Moorifh houfes, I found

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. -itf
I found the prince fitting crofs-legged,
on a mattrafs covered with fine white linen,
and placed on the floor j this, with a nar
row and long piece of carpeting that fronted
him, on which were feated his Moorifli
friends, was the only furniture in the room.
Upon my firft entrance, and delivering the
conful's letter of introduction, which, ac
cording to the cuftom of the country, was
prefented in a filk handkerchief, I was ad-
dreffed by the prince with the falu tation,
Bono tibib, bono Anglaife ; which is a mix
ture of Arabic and Spanifh, meaning, " You
" are a good doctor, the Englifh are good;"
and was ordered with my interpreter to fit
down on the floor, between the prince and
his vifitors ; when I was immediately in
terrogated by every one prefent, each hav
ing a queftion to put to me, and that of the
moft infignificant kind.
The prince expreffed great pleafure at
my arrival, wifhed tc know whether I came
voluntarily or not, and whether the Englifh
phyficians were in high repute. To the
firft queftion I replied, that I was fent by
order ofthe governor of Gibraltar : to
the fecond, I felt it a duty which I owed to
truth

izS A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
truth and to my country, to anfwer in the
affirmative. He then defired me imrne-^
diately to feel his pulfe, and to examine his
eyes, one of which was darkened by a cata
ract, and the other affedled with a paralytic
complaint ; and requefted me to inform him,
whether I would undertake to cure him,
and how foon ? My anfwer was, that I
wifhed to confider his cafe maturely before
I gave my opinion ; and in a day or two
I fhould be a better judge.
One of his particular friends obferved to
him, from feeing me without a beard, for
I had fhaved in the morning, I was too
young to be an able phyfician. Another re
marked, that I had put powder in my hair
on purpofe to difguife my age; and a third
infifted, that it was not my own hair. But-
what feemed to produce the greateft aftonifh-
ment among them, was my drefs, - which
from its clofenefs, the Moorifh drefs being
quite loofe, they were certain muft occafion
pain, and be difagreeably warm.
The reader may be allured, that a part
of this converfation was not very entertain
ing to me ; and indeed, after the great
fatigue which I had undergone, I could well

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 129
well have difpenfed with moft of their
interrogatories ; but inftead of the difmiffion
and the repofe which I wiihed and expected,
my patience was exhaufted by the abfurd
curiofity of the whole court, who one after
another intreated me to favour them with
my opinion, and inform them of the ftate
of their health, merely by feeling the pulfe.
Having acquitted myfelf to the beft of my
ability in this curious enquiry, the prince
informed me, he had prepared for my re
ception a good houfe, whither he defired
me to retire, and vifit him the following
morning early, when I was to examine his
cafe more particularly.
The good houfe promifed me by the
prince, proved to be a miferable room in
the Jewdry, that is, the part of the fuburb
inhabited by the Jews, fituated about a
quarter of a mile from the town. It was,
however, the habitation ofthe prince's prin
cipal Jew, and the beft in the place. This
apartment, which was on the ground floor,
was narrow and dirty, having' no windows
to it, but opening by means of large fold
ing-doors into a court, where three Jewifh
families, who lived all in the fame houfe,
K threw

13© A TOUR TO -MOROCCO, b <r.
threw the whole of their rubbifh and dirt.
I fuppofe my feelings might be rendered
more acute by the difappointment, for on
being introduced into this wretched hovel,
I was fo ftruck with horror and difguft, that
I was on the point of mounting my horfe,
for the purpofe of afking the prince for
another apartment ; but upon being told it
was the beft in the town, and reflecting
that I had voluntarily entered upon thefe
difficulties, I determined to ftruggle through
them as well as I could, and confented for
the prefent to acquiefce in this indifferent!
fare. I took, however, the firft opportunity -oi
reprefenting my difagreeable fituation to the
prince, who gave orders for apartments to
be fitted up for me in his garden ; but frofl>
the flownefs of the mafons, they were" not
finifhed in time for me to occupy them
before I left Tarudant. The prince's
Jew had directions to fupply me with every
thing that was neceffary ; and while at Ta
rudant I had no reafon whatever to
complain of any inattention on the part of
the prince.

As

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 131
As foon as my baggage was unpacked, the
firft object that occurred to me was to en
deavour, under thefe circumftanceSj to make
' my fituation as comfortable as the nature of
it would admit. At one end of the room I
placed my three folding ftools, which I had
ufed as a bed on the road, and fcreened it off
as well as I could with mats, which I fixed
acrofs the apartment as a partition. One
of my boxes was fubftituted for a table, and
another for a chair, not being able to pro
cure either of thofe articles in Tarudant.
At the other end of the room my inter
preter placed his bedding on the floor,
where he flept during the whole of our
ftay. Having furnifhed our room, our next
object was to confider in what manner our
cookery was to be performed. The whole
of our kitchen furniture confifted of one-
fmall iron faucepan, one pewter difh, two
pewter plates, a horn to drink out of, and
two knives and forks. As the Moors are
many of them accuftomed to the ufe of
tea, breakfafting articles we Were not at a
lofs for. On the road the icon faucepan*
had ferved very well tp bpil our eggs and
Kl 2 fowls*

132 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
fowls, which, as I before obferved, were
the only food we could procure. But at
Tarudant we found ourfelves in a land
of plenty, without having it in our power
to avail ourfelves of fuch an advantage.
After a few days inconvenience on this
account, I found out a Jew, who contrived
to drefs me a few haflies and ftews, fome-
thing in the Spanifh ftile, with which fare
I was obliged to be fatisfied. during my refi-
denceat Tarudant.
Two hours before my arrival, the whole
of the Englifh people who had been
fhipwrecked, except the captain and a
Negro, paffed through the town in their
way to the metropolis. They had been
redeemed from the wild Arabs, by Muley
Absulem, with an intent, I prefume, of
complying with his promife, but by the
emperor's orders were fent up to Mo
rocco. Upon my vifiting the prince the follow
ing day, and examining into the' nature of
his complaint, I found it to be of the moft
defperate kind ; but as I had travelled near
five hundred miles to fee him, I could not
be fatisfied to return back without attempt ing
4

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 133
ing fomething. _ I therefore gave a formal
opinion to the prince in writing, ftating,
that I could by no means abfolutely under
take to cure him ; that I could not even
flatter him with very great hopes of fuccefs;
but that if he chofe to give my plan of
treatment a trial for a couple pf months, we
cpuld then judge whether the difeafe was
likely to be removed. This plan was ap
proved of, and he immediately began his
courfe of medicines.
I have already intimated, that the prince
had totally loft the ufe of one eye by a cata
ract ; and I may add, that he had nearly loft
that ef the other by a paralytic affection,
which threatened to end in a gutta ferena*,
and. which had drawn the eye fo much
towards the nofe, as fometimes entirely to
exclude the appearance of the pupil. The
only remains of light left, were merely fuf-
ficient to enable him to fee large bodies,
without diftinguifhing any of them particu
larly. The fpafm was the difeafe which
J was ordered to cure.
But thefe were by no means the limits
* By this difeafe is to be underftood, fuch a ftate of the
optic nerve as renders it infenfible to the rays of light.
K3 °f

*34 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
ofthe prince's complaints. For, in truth,
his whole frame was fo enervated by a courfe
of debauchery, that I found it neceffary to
put him under a ftrict regimen ; to enforce
the obfervance of which, I committed from
time to time my directions to writing. They
were tranflated into Arabic, and one copy
delivered to the prince, and the other to
his confidential friend, who undertook, at
my requeft, to fee them carried into exe-r
cution. As I adminiftered internal as well as
topical remedies, I made a point of giving
them to my patient with my own hand.
The prince made no difficulty of fwallowing
the medicine, however naufeous ; but it was
a long time before I could make him com
prehend, how a medicine introduced into
the ftomach could afford any relief to the
eye. I muft, however, do him the juftice
to fay, that I found him a more apt difciple
than any of his attendants. Many of them
could not be made at all to underftand the
action of medicines, and of confequence
were full of prejudices againft my mode of
|reatment. In a few days after my firft attendance

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.' 135
on the prince, one pf his prejudiced friends
perfuaded his highnefs, that I had adminif-
tered medicines to him intended to produce
a certain effect upon his conftitution, of
which I had never entertained fo much as
an idea, before it was mentioned to me.
What this effect was I cannot with decency
explain. Suffice it to fay, that thefe ma
lignant infinuations had too powerful an
effedt on the mind of my patient, and he
expreffed himfelf to me upon the fubjedt
in terms which I could not hear without the
moft poignant indignation and uneafinefs.
I vindicated my conduct as well as I was.
able, under the difadvantages of an inters
pretation, by explaining to him how im-
poffible it was for the medicines to have
the effect he fufpected ; and how much
more to my credit, as well as advantage, it
would be to re-eftablifh his health than to
do him a prejudice ; that a prefeffional man
had a charadter, which when once loft was
irrecoverable ; and that therefore I trufted
he would reflect on my fituation, and con-
fider me in a more favourable light than
his refentment at firft had led him to fuggeft.
The prince began now to retract his ca-
K 4 lumny

136 lA TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
lumny, by faying, that he believed the
medicines had produced an effedt different
from what I intended, but that it was the
duty of a patient to inform his phyfician of
every circumftance which related to his
health. In fhort, after a variety of expla
nations, I at laft brought him to content to
give my plan a few days longer trial, and
if then there appeared any objections to the
purfuing of it, I would willingly confent to.
give it up entirely. Thofe days being
elapfed, and none of the fufpected effects
appearing, the prince proceeded regularly
, in the courfe agreeably to my directions.
The intermediate time between my at
tendance on the prince, whom I vifited
twice a day, was 'employed in reading a few
books which I brought with me from Mo
godore, making little excurfions into the
country, and vifiting patients at Taru
dant. Among the latter was the Cadi, or
judge of the town. This I found to be a
venerable old man, of about feven ty years
of age, whofe beard was become perfectly
white, and whofe countenance, though
doubtlefs altered by time, yet ftill retained a great

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 137
a great expreffion of vivacity and fenfe,
mixed with more apparent goodnefs of heart
than any I had feen in the country. He
received me with the greateft.refpect, and
expreffed his gratitude for my vifit in a
manner that appeared ftrongly marked with
fincerity. He feemed fully aware that his
complaint was merely a decay of nature,
and only wifhed me to adminifter fomething
to him which might palliate his moft urgent
fymptoms. With a great fhare of feeling
he expatiated on the inconveniences I muft
undergo, from being at fo great a diftance
from my friends, and in a part of the world
" where the manners of the people were fo.
different from what I had been accuftomed
to, expreffing his wifh at the fame time to
render me every fervice that a perfon in his
fituation could offer. Such an uncommon
fhare of fenfibility and reflection, from
one whofe countrymen are in general in a
very fmall degree removed from a favage
ftate, excited in me a warm defire of ren
dering my patient a fervice. Among the
many queftions he put to me, he afked
what was cuftomary for our judges in Eng
land to receive as a reward for their fer-
vices.

138 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
vices. Upon my informing him, the Cadi
was in perfect aftonifhment : " Good God !"
he exclaimed, " the emperor allows jme
" only fifty ducats (about twelve pounds
*' fterling) a year !"
I wifh I could have it in my power to
give as favourable an account of my other
patients at Tarudant, as of this refpec-
table old man. The generality of them
proved infolent, ungrateful, and many, who
vifited my habitation, notorious thieves.
From my apartment being in the houfe of
a Jew, none of whom dare venture to pre
vent a Moor from entering, I was from
morning to night peftered with Arabs,
mountaineers, and the worft defcription of
towns-people, who were feldom fatisfied
with my advice, but infifted on my either
giving them money, or fomething elfe equal
in value. Many I turned out of my room
by force, while with difficulty they re
ftrained their refentment at my conduct^
and every moment threatened to draw their
knives upon me ; to others, who behaved a
little better, I gave fomething to get rid of
them ; and to a third, who were real objects
pfdiftrefs, I with pleafure extended my utr
moft

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 139
moft affiftance. On the whole, my fitua
tion was fuch as to oblige me to complain
of jt to the prince, who afterwards allowed
me a foldier to mount guard conftantly at
my door, who had directions to permit no
perfon to enter my room without my parti
cular permiffion.
It was with the greateft pleafure that in
about a fortnight after my firft attendance
on the prince, I obferved an amendment in
his complaint. His eye now evinced a
difpofition to recover its former pofition j
at firft he was able only to difcern light
from darknefs, but he could now diftin-
guifh an apple at about ten yards diftance.
Thefe flattering appearances entirely re
moved every prejudice which at firft arofe
in the minds ofthe prince's attendants; and
his highnefs himfelf acknowledged that he
had been too hafty in forming his opinion
of me. The confidence which this fuqcefs
occafioned, induced the prince to admit me
jnto his Harem, where there were feveral
ladies who had occafion for my fervices.
Though this afforded me an opportunity
pf feeing the Harem, I fhall wave a par
ticular defcription of it, as it only differed

140 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
from that of the emperor (which I fhall
hereafter very particularly defcribe) by
being upon a fmaller fcale.
Upon receiving the prince's orders to at
tend his ladies, one of his friends was im
mediately difpatched with me to the gate
of the Harem ; with directions to the Al
caide * of the eunuchs to admit myfelf and
interpreter whenever I thought it necef-
fary, The eunuchs, who have the entire charge
of the women, and who in fadt live always
among them, are the children of Negro
flaves. They are generally either very fhort
and fat ; or elfe tall, deformed, and lame.
Their voices have that particular tone which
is obfervable in youths who are juft arriv
ing at manhood ; and their perfons altoge
ther afford a difgufting image of weaknefs
and effeminacy. From the truft repofed id
them by their mafters, and the confequence
which it gives them, the eunuchs exceed in
infolence and pride every other clafs of peo7
pie in the country. They difplayed indeed
fo much of it towards me, that I was oblig-
? An officer, in the general idea of the word.

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. i41
ed, in my own defence, to complain of
them once or twice, and to have them pu-
nifhed. Attended by one of thefe people, after
paffing the gate of the HareMj which is
always locked, and under the care of a
guard of eunuchs, we entered a narrow
and dark paffage, which foon brought us to
the court, into which the women's cham
bers open. We here faw numbers of both
black and white women and children ; fome
concubines, fome flaves, and others hired
domeftics. Upon their obferving the unufual figure
of an European, the whole multitude in a
body furrounded me, and expreffed the ut
moft aftonifhment at my drefs and appear
ance. Some flood motionlefs, with their
hands lifted up,, their eyes fixed, and their
mouths open, in the ufual attitude of won
der and furprize. Some burft into immo
derate fits of laughter ; while others again
came up, and, with uncommon attention,
eyed me from head to foot. The parts of
my drefs which feemed moft to attract their
notice were my buckles, buttons, and ftock
ings ; for neither men nor women ir; this
country

14* A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
country wear any thing of the kind. With
refpect to the club of my hair, they feemed
utterly at a lofs in what view to confider it ;
but the powder which I wore they con
ceived to be employed for the purpofe of
deftroying vermin. Moft of the children,
when they faw me, ran away in the moft
perfect confirmation ; and on the whole I
appeared as fingular an animal, and I dare
iay had the honour of exciting as much cu-
riofity and attention, as a lion or a man-tiger
juft imported from abroad, and introduced
into a country town in England on a mar
ket-day. Every time I vifited the Harem
I was furrounded and laughed at by this
curious mob, who, on my entering the gate,
followed me clofe to the very chamber to
which I was proceeding, and on my return
univerfally efcorted me out.
The greateft part of the women were
uncommonly fat and unwieldy ; had black
and full eyes, round faces, with fmall nofes.
They were of different complexions ; fome
very fair, fome fallow, and others again
perfect Negroes.
One of my new patients being ready to
receive me, I was defired to walk into her
room;

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc ,43
ropm ; where, to my great furprife, I faw
nothing but a curtain drawn quite acrofs
the apartment, fimilar to that of a theatre
which feparates the ftage from the audience.
A female domeftic brought a very low ftool,
placed it near the curtain, and told me
I was tp fit dpwn there, and feel her
miftrefs's pulfe.
The lady, who had by this time fum-
moned up courage to fpeak, introduced her
hand from the bottom of the curtain, and
defined me to inform her of all her com
plaints, which fhe conceived I might per
fectly perceive by merely feeling the pulfe.
It was in vain to afk her where her pain was
feated, whether in her ftomach, head, or
back; the only anfwer I could procure,
was a requeft to feel the pulfe of the other
hand, and then point out the feat of the
difeafe, and the nature of the pain.
Having neither fatisfied my curiofity by
exhibiting her face, nor made me acquainted"
with the nature of her complaint, I was
under the neceffity of informing her in po-
fitive terms, that to underftand the difeafe
it was abfolutely neceffary to fee the tongue,
as well as to feel the pulfe; and that with out

744- A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
out it I could clo nothing for her. My elo
quence, or rather that : of my Jewifh in
terpreter, was, however, for a long time
exerted in vairi ;' arid I am perfuaded fhe
would have diffhiffed me without any fur- 7
ther enquiry, had ndt her invention fnp-
plied her with a happy expedient to remove
her embarraffment. She contrived at laft
to cut a hole through the curtain, through
which fhe extruded her tongue, and thus
complied with my injunction as far as it
was neceffary in a medical view, but moft
effedtually difappoirfted my curiofity.
I was afterwards ordered to look at an-;
other of the prince's wives, who was af
fedled with a fcrophulous fwelling in her
neck. This lady was, in the fame manner
as the other, at firft excluded from my
fight ; but as fhe was obliged to fhew me
her complaint, I had ah opportunity of fee
ing her face, and obferved it to be very hand
fome. I was informed that fhe had been
at one period the favourite of the prince,
but owing to this defect he had in a great
meafure deferted h'er ; and this circumftance :
accounts for the extreme anxiety which '-
fhe

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 145
.(he feemed to exprefs to get rid of this dif-
agreeable difeafe:
As foon as I had examined her neck, fhe
took off from her drefs the whole of her
gold trinkets, which were very numerous,
and df confiderable value, put them into
my hand; and defired me to cure her ; pro-
mifing a ftill greater reward if I fucceeded.
Confcious of the uncertainty of rendering
her any material fervice; I immediately re
turned the prefent, and allured her that fhe
might depend on my giving all proper re
medies a fair trial, but that I could not be
anfwerable for their fuccefs. There is no
thing more unpleafant than the inability of
giving reafonable ground for hope, when it
promifes to be productive of fo much hap-
pinefs to a fellow-creature; It was with
pain I obferVed that this poor lady, though
fomewhat cheered, was yet dilfatisfied with
my reply ; fhe could not refrain from fhew-
ing evident marks of difappointmentj and
even difpleafure, at my heiitation, by fay
ing, fhe always underftood that a Chriftian
phyfician could cure every difeafe.
During the courfe of my attendance in
the Harem, I had an opportunity of fee-

in?

146 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
ing moft of the prince's women, who, ex-
clufive of the four wives allowed him by
his religion, were about twenty in number,
and who did not, like his wives, difcover
that invincible reluctance to the difplay of
their beauty. They at firft' proved very
troublefome patients ; for upon my not tel
ling them all their complaints immediately
upon feeling the pulfe, they confidered me
as an ignorant empiric, who knew nothing
of my profeffion. Befides this, I found
that each of them flattered themfelves with
almoft an inftantaneous cure. In fhort,
after many fruitlefs efforts to teach thofe to
reafon who had hitherto never made the
fmalleft ufe of their underftandings, I was
at laft obliged to adapt my deportment to
the capacities of my patients, and foon ac
quired among them as much undeferved
commendation as I had incurred unmerit
ed reproach.
Moft of the women in the Harem were
under thirty years of age, of a corpulent
habit, and of a very aukward gait. Their
knowledge of courfe, from having led a
life of total fecluiion from the world, was
entirely confined to" the occurrences in their
Harem ;

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc ' j47
Harem"; where, as they were allowed a
free accefs to each other, they converfed
upon fuch fubjedts as their uninformed un-
derftandings ferved to furnifh them with.
They are never fiiirered to go out, but by
an exprefs order from the prince ; and then
only when removing "from one place of re-
fidence to another. I in general found them
extremelyugnorant, proud, and vairi of their
perfons, even to a degree which bordered
upon childifhnefs. Among many ridiculous
queftions, they allied my interpreter if I
could read and write ; upon being anfwered
in the affirmative, they expreffed the utmoft
furprife and admiration at the abilities of the
Chriftians. There was not one among them
who could do either; thefe rudiments of
learning are indeed only the lot of a few of
their men, who on that account are named
Talbs, or explainers of the Mahometan
law. Among the concubines ofthe prince there
Were fix female flaves of the age of fifteen,
Who Were prefented to him by a Moor of
cjiftindtion. One of thefe was defcended
from an Englifh renegado* another from a
L 2 Spanifh,

j48 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wr.
Spanifh, and the other four were of Moorifh
extraction. Where the more folid and ufeful accom-
plifhments are leaft cultivated, a tafte is
often found to prevail for thofe which are
purely ornamental and frivolous. Thefe de
voted victims of libidinous pleafure received
a daily lefibn of mufic, by order of the prince,
from a Moor who had paffed fome little time
in London and Italy, where he had acquired
a flight knowledge of that fcience. I had
an opportunity of being prefent at one of
thefe performances, but cannot fay I re
ceived much amufement, in a mufical view,
from my vifit. It was a concert vocal and
inftrumental : the inftr-uments ufed upon
this occafion were the mandoline, a kind of
violin with only two firings, and the tabor.
The principal object in their performance
feemed to be noife ; it was without the leaft
attention to melody, variety, or tafte, and, '
was merely drawing out a wild and melan
choly ftrain.
Converfation, however, forms the prin
cipal entertainment in thefe gloomy retire
ments. When I vifited the Harem, I
never found the women engaged in any
other

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 149
other employment than that of converfing
on the ground in circles. In fact, as all
their needle-work is performed by Jeweffes,
and their cookery, and the management of
their chambers, by their flaves and domef-
tics, of which they have a proportionable
number, according to the favour they are in
with the prince, it is not eafy for them to
find means of occupying their time, and
particularly fince none of them are able to
read or write. It is impoffible, indeed, to
reflect on the fituation of thefe unfortunate
women without the moft lively fentiments
of compaffion. Excluded from the enjoy
ment of frefh air and exercife, fo neceffary
for the fupport of health and life ; deprived
of all fbciety but that of their fellow-fuf-
ferers, a fociety to which moft of them
would prefer folitude itfelf; they are only to
be confidered as the moft abject of flaves
; — flaves to the vices and caprice of a licen
tious tyrant, who exacts even from his wives
themfelves a degree of fubmiffion and refpect
which borders upon idolatry, and which
God and nature never meant 'fhould be paid
to a mortal. x'
J[> L 3 After

150 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
After the lapfe of a third week, there
was a confiderable amendment in the prince's
complaint.. He began to diftinguifh very
large writing; and he affured me that he had
written with his own hand a letter to the
emperor, wherein he informed him of the
relief my attendance had afforded him ;
affuring me, that his father would re
ward me yery handfomely if I effected a
cure. Our intercourfe was at this time im
proved into intimacy. He.,-.ufed to fee me
without referve, and often at a time when
he had his women with him, which, I was
informed, was a mark of confidence with
which no other man had ever before been
honoured. He made me feel their pulfes,
and obliged one of them, who was remark
ably fat and unwieldy, to be held on the
floor by two of the others, while I dropped.
into her eye fome of the fame medicine
which I had occafion to apply to his. The
violent but temporary pain brought on by
this application produced an immoderate fit
pf laughter in the prince, as well as in the
pther ladies; and the object of it, though
jn moft violent pain, to eyince her refpect to

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 151
to his royal highnefs, declared it to be a very
pleafant fenfation.
Upon other occafions he would detain
me for two, and fometimes three hours,
enquiring concerning European cuftoms,
and particularly thofe of the Englifh, their
religion, laws, and government. He made
fome comments upon what I told him,
manifefted an earneft defire of information,
and appeared greatly interefted in the con-
verfation. At other times, when he had
been put out of humour, after I had felt his
pulfe, and adminiftered to him the medi
cines, he would difmifs me without afking
me to fit down, or even allowing me to afk
any further queftions. — But the curiofity
of the reader is probably by this time ex
cited reflecting the perfon and character
of this prince; and perhaps it cannot be
gratified at a more convenient part of the
Narrative. Muley Absulem is of the middle fize,
of rather a corpulent habit, and about thirty-
five years of age. His features are very
much disfigured by the great defect in his
eyes ; the cataract having entirely obfeured
L 4 one

IS? A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
one of them, and the other* being drawn
quite on one fide by the violence of the para
lytic affedtion. Thefe circumftances^joined
to the great natural fize and prominency of
both eyes, a bad let of teeth, and a fallow
complexion, will not allow me to fay that
the prince has the fmalleft pretentions to
the character of handfome. His drefs was
the fame as that of other Moors; which I
lhall hereafter defcribe, except a filk taffel
to his turban, which is in this country a
diftindlive mark of royalty. When I firft
iiw him, he was covered with a loofe fur-
tout, made of red woollen cjoth, and edged
with fur-fkin, which the Moors term a
caftan. Indeed the only diftindtion of
drefs in this country is in the good or bad
qualities of the materials. I have feen in
ftances of private Moors, whofe drefs was
much richer than that pf any ofthe princes,
or even of the emperor himfelf. The at
tendants of the prince confifted principally
pf foldiers, of which he has an unlimited
number, pages, who are generally about his
perfon, black eunuchs, and a few black
Haves.
jl-nv The

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 155
The charadter of Muley Absulem is
marked with lefs of feverity and cruelty than
that of the greater part of the Moorifh
princes; it ppffeffes however, at the fame
time, lefg of that fagacity, acutenefs, and
activity, which is fo neceffary for the govern
ment of fo uncivilized a people as the Moors.
To be explicit, this prince is naturally of a
mild and indolent difpofition ; immoderately
indulgent to his paffions, when he can enjoy
them without much trouble ; and very little
ambitious of fame.
Till very lately he had accuftomed hlm-
ielf to drink, to a very great excefs, ftrong
brandy; that he has 'now entirely relin-
quifhed, and his principal paffion fince has
been the love of wOmen, which engroffes
the whole of his attention and time. 1
obferved, however* that he allowed his la
dies much more indulgence than is in ge
neral cuftomary among the Moors ; and I
found that even in his prefence they con-
verfed among each other with as much
freedom as if -they had been ~ by them
felves. From the fketch which I have given of
the prince's charadter, it will be no difficult matter

154 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
matter to difcover the reafons why his
father's wifhes for appointing him his. fuc-
ceffor were difappointed. He was rich, it
is true, but a great part of his wealth was
fquandered on fenfual gratifications ; and the
total want of energy in his character pre
vented his fecuring friends in a country,
where cruelty and great activity are con-
fidered as the only characteriftics of fove
reignty. The advantages of hereditary fucceffion
can only be feen by contemplating the ftate
of thofe monarchies where it does not exift.
In Morocco, where there is no regular or
fixed order of fucceffion, though the em
peror is indulged in the formality of nomi
nating his fucceffor, yet the fword fupplies
the place of right; and that prince who can
acquire the greateft number of friends, and
confequently the ftrongeft army, fucceeds
to the throne. This circumftance is often
attended with the moft fatal effects, and has
given rife to thofe bloody revolutions which
from one period to another have fhaken and
depopulated the empire of Morocco. The
emperor Sidi Mahomet, from having no
competitors, enjoyed a much more peaceful reign

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 155
reign than any of his predecefTors. How
far his fucceffor, who has feveral brothers,
each feeling an equal claim to the throne,
will be equally fuccefsful, time only muft;
determine.

CHAP,

156 A TOUR TO MOROCCO,

CHAP. VL H I
Defcription of Tarudant. — Country sf
Vled de Non. — Markets for the Sale
ef Cattle. — Extraordinary Amendment in
the Prince's Complaint. — Great Civility
from, two Moors.— -Singular Adventure. — t
The Prince ordered on a Pilgrimage to-
Mecca. — Inter ceftion in Favour of the
Englifh Captives. — Unexpected Order tq.
repair ^'Morocco.
S it is quite unfafliionable in this coun
try to go even to the next ftreet on
foot, and as my fituation was at fome dif
tance from that of the prince, his highnefs
made me a prefent of an horfe, which,
however, I could not fay was one of the
beft in the country. But as I had once
engaged in this fervice, I conceived it my
intereft to make the beft of every fituation.
In the hours, therefore, when my peribnal
attendance on my patient was not demanded,
I frequently made ufe of my Rofinante,
8 both

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. I57
both for the purpofe of exercife, and for
the gratification of my curiofity in vifiting
every thing which appeared worthy of in
fpedtion. 'I'he following are the principal
obfervations which I was able to collect in
the courfe of my excurfions ; and I flatter
myfelf they will ferve at leaft to give a
general idea of the city where I refided,
and its environs.
Tarudant, now the capital ofthe pro
vince of Suz, was formerly, while the em
pire was divided into petty ftates, the me
tropolis of a kingdom. It lies in a fine
hut uncultivated plain, about twenty miles
to the South of the Atlas, and may be
considered as the frontier town of that part
ofthe emperor's dominions. The emperor:,
it is true, claims the fovereignty of the
defert of Zahara, and the territory of
Vled de Non. But his authority over
that part of the country is almoft nominal;
as it entirely depends on the caprice .ind
inclination of the Arabs who inhabit it ;
and who, from their diftant fituation from
•the feat of government, are more properly
under the dominion of their own chiefs.
They acknowledge the. emperor to be their
fovereign,

iS8 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
fovereign, and the head of their church,
and occafionally pay him tribute as fuch;
but they pay no attention whatever to his
particular orders, and over their interior
government he has not the leaft controuL
Thefe people confift of different tribes
of Arabs, who live in tents without any
fixed places of refidence. They wander
over the country in fearch of plunder, and
are fuppofed, on fome occafions, to extend
their depredations as far as Nigritia, whence
they carry off Negroes. They profefs the
Mahometan religion, though they inter
mix it with a great portion of idolatry;
and in the deferts, where no water can be
procured for the purpofe of ablution, tney
fubftitute fand. Their manner of treating
thofe unfortunate mariners who have the
misfortune to be fhipwrecked on their coaft,.
I fhall hereafter have occafion to repre-
fent. The walls of Tarudant, now half in
ruins, are very extenfive, and enclofe a much
larger fpace of ground than is occupied by
the buildings. The houfes, which are com-
pofed of earth and mud, beaten very tight
in a wooden cafe, and left to be dried by
the

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. i$g
the fun, have only apartments on the ground
floor; and as each houfe is furrounded by
a garden and wall, the place altogether
bears a greater refemblance to a well-peopled
fpot of country, or a collection of hamlets,
than a town.- This idea is much increafed
by the number of lofty palm, or date trees,
which are intermixed with, and overlook the
houfes, affording altogether a very rural ap-
- pearance. The apartments are in general
mean and inconvenient, and principally in
habited by the lower clafs of mechanics,
as there are very few Moors of diftinction
refiding at Tarudant. It is true, when
the prince is there, he brings with him
all his attendants and friends, but they
generally live in the caftle, and are by no
means to be confidered as the inhabitants
ofthe town.
From the irregular and ftraggling man
ner in which the town is built, it is im-
poflible to form a conjecture concerning the
number of houfes and inhabitants it con
tains. As its extent, however, is confider
able, it may be accounted an important and
populous city, when compared with moft
of the others in the emperor's dominions.
§ The

ife A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
The principal manufactures at TARira
dant are making of fine haicks, and
the working of copper, which is procured
in great plenty from a neighbouring mine;
They have a regular market twice a week,
where all kinds of cattle and provifions are
brought to be difpofed of. For the fale of
horfes and mules the proprietor of the mar
ket employs men on purpofe to ride, and
exhibit the beafts to the beft advantage,
and afterwards to put them up to public
auction. In thefe fales, if the higheft bid
der does not offer a price agreeable to the
owners, they are at liberty to refufe felling
them. This cuftom prevents many of thofe
impofitions in the fale of cattle, which too
frequently prevail in European fairs and
markets. By thus putting the cattle up
to public auction, thofe perfons who have
really good ones will in , general get their
full price for them ; and thofe buyers, who
from their ignorance might be liable to be
impofed upon, can without much difficulty
form a tolerable idea of the real value of
the animal by the price which others bid.
The Jewdry is a miferable place, fitu
ated about a quarter of a mile from the
town.

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wei 161
towh. The inhabitants are in the moft
abject ftate of poverty and fubjedtion, and
when they enter the Moorifh town are
obliged to go barefooted. The caftle,
which is very extenfive, and fituated half
way between the town and Dar Beyda,
the refidence of the prince, is enclofed in
a tplerably neat garden, which was planned
by a Frenchman. It is divided into three
parts; one fpr the prince, which he oc-
cafionally ufes, the other for his women,
named the Harem*, and the third for all ,
thofe who ate in the fervice of the prince.
As the prince's recovery became daily
obfervable, I thought I might venture to
try him with a large watch which I had
with me, to fee whether he could point
out the time of the day. In this he
fucceeded very well, and had difcernment
eribugh to obferve, that it was an old watch,
and in part broken. He therefore begged
my acceptance of a very elegant gold one,
requefting of me to Wear it inftead of the
* Europeans have in general an idea, that the place
allotted for the women to live in is named the Seraglio,
This is quite erroneous. Seraglio means properly a palace,
and the women'? place of refidence is thq Haiem.
M other,

!6a A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
other. The handfome manner in which
his highnefs made this prefent, gave me
a much more flattering idea of his charadter
than his conduct afterwards warranted. But
we are to recollect, that he was then in the
act of receiving a benefit from me; that the
journey which he was afterwards obliged to
undertake, put it out of my power to render
him any further fervice ; and therefore, to an
illiberal and uncultivated mind, the motive
for continuing any acts of generofity or
kindnefs no longer exifted.
In the courfe of my vifits to the prince,
I occafionally met with two Moors, one of
whom had been in Italy for fome time,
and the other in England, who could fpeak
a little of the Englifh language. I men
tion thefe men not only from motives of
gratitude, but alfo to evince, that it is by
improving the mind, and by converfing with
refined and civilized people only, that we
are able to conquer illiberal prejudices.
From an impulfe of benevolence, for it
could proceed from no other motive, fince
they had not received the fmalleft favour
from me, they in a fhort time contracted fo
warm a friendfhip for me, that had I been
their

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 163
their neareft relation, they could not have
fhewn it in a ftronger manner than I ex
perienced. They not Only expreffed their diftrefs at
feeing me in a country where I muft be
continually fubjedt to infult, and where the
manner of living muft be fo very different
from that to which they knew by their
own experience I had been accuftomed, but
they alfo took me to their houfes, intro
duced me to their wives^ and defired them
to take the fame care of me as of their own
family. This was not all; they urged me
to allow one of them to go into fome other
apartments, which they could obtain from
the prince, and almoft infifted upon my
accepting of theirs.. To this friendly pro-
pofal, however, I could not accede. Indeed
I was in daily expectation of taking pof
feffion of the apartments promifed me by
the prince ; and had it been otherwife I
could never have intruded fo much upon
their friendfhip as to have confented to
this requeft. They continually, however,
obliged me to accept of tea and fugar, and
many other articles, which from their fear-
city at Tarudant were very valuable,
M 2 Of

tfy A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
Of money they knew I was not in want,
as I drew upon Mr. Hutchifon's agent for
that article ; but of thofe little rarities
which they frequently fent to the prince,
I was always kindly compelled to take my
fhare. Had thefe two eftimable perfons
received all the advantages of a liberal edu
cation, what an ornament would they have
proved to fociety, and of what extenfive
utility to their nation !
On returning home from one of my vifits
to the prince, and having paffed the gate
way, which is very lofty, and leads to the
town, I was furprized at hearing a number
of voices from above calling put very loudly,
Tibib, Tibib! (Doctor, doctor!)— On
looking back I obferved Muley Omar, one
of Sidi Mahomet's fons, and half-brother
to Muley Absulem, fitting in great ftate
on the centre of the wall over the gate
way, with a number of his attendants on
each fide of him. I immediately rode up
to the prince, and found him a tolerably
good looking young man, of about two-and-
twenty. He was rather of a dark com
plexion, and his features were ftrongly mark
ed with good nature. After the ufual falu-
tationj,

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 165
tation, and having anfwered his queftion,
whether I approved of the horfe his bro
ther had given me, I took my leave ; but
could not poffibly conceive the reafon why
a perfon of his confequence fhould be feat
ed in fo ftrange a place. I had not ridden
far, before I obferved about an hundred
Moors on horfeback, who were upon the
full gallop, and firing at each other in a
ftrange and irregular manner. I now was
informed that this was a (ham fight, per
formed for the amufement of the prince,,
who had chofen the top of the gateway for
his place of obfervation.
As I found it an eafier matter to keep
my mind employed in the day-time than in
the evening, I accuftomed myfelf to go to
bed, as well as to rife, very early. One
evening I had not retired to reft more than
three hours, when I was alarmed by a noife,
which I at firft imagined was occafioned by
thieves getting into the houfe. There had
been lately a great number of robberies at
Tarudant committed by the Arabs, who,
as the houfes in general were conftrudted of
nothing but mud, had a cuftom of making
3. hole in the wall large enough to admit
M 3 themfelves

1 66 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
themfelves through, without occafioning
the leaft alarm to any of the family. This
I conceived to be the cafe, and fuppofed
that the noife I heard arofe from the acci
dental falling down of part of the wall.
I immediately got up and flew to the
door, which was already opened by my
interpreter, who had rifen before me, and
there I obferved the whole of my neigh
bours with lights in their hands, and in
their fhirts and fhifts, in a perfect ftate of
confternation. They were ftanding as if
totally unconfcious where they were, and
without the power of fpeech. Indeed the
alarm had occafioned the fame apprehenfions
in them that it had in me, and they had
juft advanced as far as the fpot where I firft
faw them, without having the refolution to
examine any further into the caufe of the
noife .
My interpreter, though but little better
than the others, had fummoned up courage
enough to approach the fpot whence the
noife arofe; he there found that one fourth
of the houfe, which wag built in a fquare,
with a court in the centre, had entirely
fallen d,own, and buried in. its ruins ^wq
J?WS|

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. i6y
Jews, who were fleeping in the fallen apart
ment. I immediately affifted, and we foon
brought the two men into my room, where
I examined them very particularly, and
found them fpeechlefs — but fpeechlefs only
from fright. I muft confefs this accident,
which had occafioned a crack in my apart
ment, increafed my anxiety to change it,
as it was impoffible to fay how foon I might
be in the fame predicament with the two
Jews whom I and my interpreter had ex
tricated from the ruins ; but notwithftand-
ing all my importunities I could not per-
fuade the prince's mafons to work fall
enough to prove of any utility.
Among the many inconveniences which
I experienced at Tarudant, were the
frequent infults I received in the ftreets,
for which I could certainly have had re-
drefs, but the number of new faces which
were daily appearing, made applications for
it entirely ufelefs. One day in my way to
the prince I was infulted by an ill -looking
Moor, who,' under the fanction of a Sha
rif*, thought himfelf juftifiable in fo
* Sharifs are men who profefs themfelves to be the
defcendants of Mahomet, and on that account are held in
great efteem,
M 4 doing,

i66 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, 53V.
doing, and therefore in a very rude manner
ran his mule directly upon me, with an in
tention of either giving me a fevere blow,
or of frighting my horfe, I immediately
expoftulated with him upon the impro
priety of fuch brutal behaviour; upon which
he told me I. might go to the devil, for he
was a Sharif. Upon this I found it
neceffary to explain to him that I was fur-*
geon to his prince, who from being gover
nor of the province, and from having me
under his immediate protection, would pay
very httle attention to his being a Sharif,
but would punifh him in fuch a manner as
his conduct merited ; that I was then going
to his highnefs, and as J was well ac
quainted with his name, fhould make my
complaint of him. With a meannefs pro
portioned to his pride, this haughty Sha
rif turned back his mule, and offered any
atonement I could point out, even that of
going down upon his. knees, if I would
forgive this offence, for he dreaded the idea
of his infolence being made knpwn to the
prince. I immediately confented to accept
his fubmiffion, but admonifhed him, though
a Sharif, to be cautious in future how he
committed fuch a breach of hofpjtality a§
to infult a ftranger, At

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 169
At the end ofthe fourth week, the prince
informed me that he had received orders
from the emperor to prepare himfelf to
proceed on a pilgrimage to Mecca, but
that it was his intention to take me up to
Morocco, where he would introduce me
to his father, whence I was to accom
pany him to Fez and Mequinez, where
he would give me a detachment of foldiers,
which fhoiild conduct me to Tangier,
" By thefe means," added his highnefs,
* you will have an opportunity of telling
f* your brother Chriftians what a number
" of fine places you have feen in this
" country." His departure from Taru-*
dant, however, was not to take place for
fome weeks, fo that it would not interfere
with -the plan of cure which I was at prer<
fent purfuing,
In the courfe of our converfation, during
the different times I vifited the prince, I re
peatedly urged him to redeem out of his
captivity Captain Irving, the mafter of the
fhip wrecked Guinea-man, agreeably to hi9
promife, and always received the ftrongefV
affurances that my requeffs would be com
plied with; but hitherto nothing' had been
done,

?;o A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
done, I therefore proceeded upon another
plan, which as it operated to the intereft
pf the prince, I flattered myfelf would be
attended with more fuccefs. I told him
that Captain Irving was a phyfician, whom
I knew to be a man of great abilities (for he
Feally was brought up to the profeffion) and
that his advice was highly neceffary in order
to promote and facilitate my plan of cure,
and therefore I wifhed him to be fent for
immediately. The prince, though fatisfied
with my conduct, was highly pleafed with'
the idea of novelty, and foon obtained the
emperor's permiffion to fend for him up to
Tarudant. Having no European with whom I could
converfe, and refiding among the very worft
part of the Moors, who harafled me at
one time with their folicitations for relief,
and at another with their infolence, it will
eafily be conceived that my time was not
fpent in the moft agreeable manner poffible
at Tarudant. My attendance however
pn the prince, and the apparently great
amendment in his health, ferved in fome
meafure. to keep up my fpirits, amufe me, and

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 37s
g.nd enable me to bear my fituation with,
patience. At the expiration of five weeks, during
which time the prince exprefled the mofi
perfect fatisfaction at the relief which I had
afforded him, an order came down from the
emperor, commanding my immediate pre
fence at Morocco. It may well be con
ceived that I could not receive this order
without ftrong emotions of chagrin and
furprife. From the well-known difpofition
pf thefe pepple, I was aware that had any
accident happened to the prince during my
attendance on him, fuch an order would
probably have been the confequence ; but
to remove me from- my patient, at a time
when his highnefs was continually informing
his father of his amendment, was a myftery
which I could not unfold. I repeatedly
urged the prince to explain the reafon of this
extraordinary conduct in the court; but he
was either unable or unwilling tp afford^ me,
^ny information.
Confcious how ufelefs and abfurd the atT
tempt would be to withftand a pofitive order
pf the emperor, in a government fo uncom
monly defpotic, and reflecting upon the fa
vourable,

tjz A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
vourable ftate of the prince's health, after
revolving the queftion again and again with
in my own mind, I in the end (fo ready are
our imaginations to flatter us on every occa
fion) brought myfelf to hope that the
journey might prove rather to my advantage
than otherwife. How egregioufly deceived
I was in thofe hopes the fequel will fuffici
ently prove. A gold watch, an indifferent
horfe, and a few hard dollars, forced into
my hand contrary to my inclination, were
the princely and magnificent rewards which
I received for taking a journey of five hun
dred miles, and an affiduous attendance on un
ungrateful defpot!

CHAP.

"A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. lf%

CHAP. VIL
Journey over Mount Atlas from Taru
dant to Morocco. — Retinue. — Dan
gerous Paffage over Mount Atlas. —
Defcription of Mount Atlas.— r Na
tural ProduBions.— Animals. — Beautiful
V allies. — Manners and Cuftoms of the
Brebes. — PiBurefque Views in the Moun
tains.
ON the 30th of November, between
feven and eight in the morning, I
took my leave of the prince, having previ-
oufly intreated him to continue his courfe
of medicines, and left Tarudant, under
the charge of an Alcaide, and two foldiers
of the Negro cavalry, who carried up the
annual prefent from the prince to the em
peror, of fix horfes and three boxes of money.
Thefe, with my interpreter, a Jew, who
ferved both as cook and groom, and a mule-»
teer, who had the charge of my baggage,
were my party for the journey. Between

<74 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wa
Between twelve and one at noon we ar
rived at the foot of Mount Atlas, about
twenty miles from Tarudant, where we
pitched a very elegant tent* which the
prince had procured for me, adjoining to
fome Moorifh huts. We found the coun
try in our way hither a woody and unculti
vated plain.
On the following day at fix in the morn
ing we ftruck the tent, and immediately
began to afcend Mount Atlas. For near
four hours we had one continued, difficult,
and fatiguing afcent, owing to the road be
ing narrow, rocky, and fteep. From its
abrupt and angular turnings the Moors
diftinguifh it by an Arabic name, which
iignifies the camel's neck.
In many places, and particularly on the
higher parts of the mountain, befides the
inconvenience of a rocky road, which was
only broad enough to allow one mule with
difficulty to pafs, we had a tremendous
perpendicular precipice on one fide, and
even in fome places, where the mountain
confifted of only a narrow ridge of rock, on
both. It was aftonifhing tp obferve with
what eafe and fafety our mules afcended and
6 defcended

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. t?$
defcended the rough and uneven paths over
the mountains, without putting us under
the neceffity of difmounting. By two in
the afternoon we began to defcend, and ar
rived at a fmall village, in the centre of
which we pitched the tent.
On the following morning, at a little be
fore fix, we proceeded on our journey, and
at five in the evening arrived at the termi
nation of the mountains, where we flept
that night. The firft part of this day's
journey was a defcent on a moft dreadfully
fteep and rocky road, which at laft brought
us into a beautiful vale, between two very ,
high mountains, which immediately opens
into the plains of Morocco, in a manner
that is truly pidturefque and fublime.
I confefs it would have gratified me to
have prolonged my flay for a little while in
thefe mountains, fo fertile in objects inte-
refting to curiofity. The few obfervations
which I was able to collect in my paffage
over them I fhall, however, prefent to my
readers, without any further apology.
The Atlas are a chain of high moun
tains, interfected with deep vallies, which
extend from the Eaftern to the Weftera parts

ijS A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wei
parts of Barbary, dividing it into two partd
or fedtions. Thofe to the Weftward, from
their height, are named the Greater
Atlas, and thofe to the Eaftward the
Lesser. So immenfe is the height of
thefe mountains, and particularly of thofe
in the neighbourhood of Morocco, that
though fo far to the Southward, their fum-
mits are perpetually covered with fnow.
When Muley Absulem, the following
January, paffed over the fame track which
I had paffed in December, it fnowed the
whole way; and from Morocco we at
that time could not difcover any part of
the mountains which was hot completely
white. The atmofphere near their fummits is
intenfely cold, to a degree indeed which is
frequently found to be deftructive to ani
mal life. J- was well informed that fome
Brebes, who had attempted to afcend the
higheft part of the mountain, died immedi
ately on the fpot, while others who were
engaged in the fame attempt were obliged
to return with the utmoft precipitancy.
As December was not the moft favour-'
able feafon for botanical refearches, I faw"
little

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, .We. 1.77
little vegetation on the mountains, except.
the^ arga- tree, on which I have already
made fome remarks when fpeaking pf the
natural productions of the country in gene
ral ; but I am informed from the beft au
thority, that, in the fpring thefe mountains,
abound with an innumerable variety of cu
rious plants. Indeed I have great reafon to.
believe the natural philofopher would find
a nobler fcope. in this country for his en
quiries than in almoft any part of the globe ;
and that the knowledge of medicine, as well
as of botany, would be improved by a phi-
lofophical tour over the Atlas.
In the interior parts of the mountains
there are, as I have before obferved, nume
rous iron-mines, and the Moors have an
opinion that there are gold ones alfo • but
the truth of this has not been afcertained:
I was informed of feveral _ volcanoes which
f, xifted in different parts, but as I did not.
' fee them, I only give this as a mere reporf ;
though from the nature of things I cannot
help repeating, that I think it highly pro
bable many curious and valuable articles are
concealed in the bowels of thefe unknown
mountains, which indolence and want of*
N emulation,

»7* A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
emulation, fo ftrongly interwoven in the
difpofition and charadter of the Moors, will
not fuffer them to explore.
With refpedt to animal productions-;
Mount Atlas abounds with lions, tigers-,
wolves, wild boars, and monftrous ferpents.
But except when the neceffity produced by
an extremely fevere winter drives thefe ani
mals into the vales or tracks of men, they
generally confine themfelves to the moft
inacceffible parts ofthe mountains. This
remark, however, is not to be underftood
without exceptions; for when I was at
Tarudant a tiger was killed quite clofe
to the town ; and there have been many
inftances of their ranging far beyond the
limits ofthe mountains. The means made
ufe of by the inhabitants to fecure them
felves from their attacks at night are, by
making, large and numerous wood-fires,
which the wild beafts feldom, venture to
approach. When I paffed over the moun
tains, I met with no animals of prey, except
fome remarkably large eagles.
On the upper parts, in fome places, there
was nothing to be feen but an, huge mafs of

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. *7?
6f barren and rugged rocks, whofe perpen
dicular and immenfe heights formed preci-
picesi which, upon looking down, filled
the mind with inexpreffible horror; in
others, we paffed through thick and ex
tenfive forefts of the arga-tree; which;
though it afforded an agreeable variety, be
ing the only vegetable on the mountains^
very little leffened the general appearance
of barrennefs. v
The vallies, hpwever, prefented us with
a very different fcene. Here we obferved
numerous villages^ gardens-, and inclofures;
which, though in December, Were beauti
fully covered with verdure, and filled with
fruit-trees of every defcription. Corn grew
at this feafon in the greateft abundance,
intermixed with plantations of olives and
oranges, and ferved as the refort of a variety
of finging birds of every defcription. In
fome places fmall cafcades of Water iffiued
from the rocks and mountains abovei unit
ing and forming one continued ftream,
which plentifully watered the plain. In
fact, this' fcene afforded the moft pleafing
"relief to the mind, after the fatigues and
N 2 dangers

4S© A TOUR TO MOROCCO,.'^,
dangers we had experienced iri the higher?
parts of the mountains.
The villages confifted of huts, rudely
conftrudted of earth and mud, and walled
in. They are very numerous, and are in
habited by a fet of people who are named
Brebes. Thefe people differ entirely from
the Arabs and Moors. They are the origi
nal inhabitants of the country, who at the
time of the conqueft by the Arabs fled into
thefe mountains, where they have ever fince
continued,- and in a great meafure main
tained their independence. Each village is
under the direction ofa Shaik, who, con
trary to the practice in the encampments
ofthe Arabs, is an officer of their own
choice. The Brebes are a very athletic and
ftrong-featured people, patient, and accufs
tomed to hardfhips and fatigue, and feldom
remove far from the fpot where they refide.
They fhave the fore part of the head, but
fuffer their hair to grow from the Crown
as far behind as the neck. They wear n6
fhirt or drawers; they are only covered by
one woollen garment without fleeves, and
belted

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 1S1
"belted round the middle, though I have
feen fome few cover it with the haick.
Their principal amufement is in the .41 fe
of their mufkets ; they are indeed excellent
markfmen, and are very dexterous in twirl
ing their mufkets round, throwing them
very high in the air, and afterwards catch
ing them. So attached are they to thefe
inftruments, that they frequently go to the
expence of fixty or even eighty ducats, to
ornament them with filver and ivory.
' Their employment confifts principally in
cultivating the vallies, locking after their
cattle, and hunting wild beafts, the fkins
of which become a very valuable article for
fale. Like the Arabs they have their re
gular markets for the difpofal of cattle, &c.
where they either receive money or fome
pther article in exchange. They have fal
len, in a great meafure, into the cuftoms
and' religion of the Moors, but they ftill
retain their original language ; and a Moor
is frequently obliged to ufe an interpreter
-to enable him to converfe with them.
Befides thofe who refide in huts in the
vallies, which are numerous, there are alfo
others who live in caves in the upper parts
N q of

i8z A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
of the mountains ; fo that the number o0
the whole muft be very confiderable.
From their fecure fituation, the Brebes,
although inhabiting a confiderable tract
within the bounds of the empire, have fre
quently proved yery troublefome to the
Moorifh monarchs, fometimes paying them
tribute, and at others refilling it, according
to the dictates of their inclination. It is
not long fince a general revolt took place
among the Brebes, which obliged the em-?
peror to fend a large army to fubdue them j
but he fucceeded no farther than to oblige
them to difperfe, without either conquer
ing them, or gaining the ppint at which he
aimed, which was to compel them to the
payment of the tribute he demanded. The
fituation indeed of thefe mountains does not
admit of the operations of a large army;
for the mountaineers, accuftomed to clind}
up into the almoft inacceffible receffes, foon
get beyond the reach of enemies whp never
before had made the attempt.
Befide the Brebes, many Jews refide
in the vallies, and poffefs feparate habitations
or villages. Thefe people are employed in
the trifling mechanical occupations which the

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. iS3
the Brebes require. Indeed I believe there
is no part of the world where the Jews are
fo completely diffufed over the face of the
country, or where they are fo feverely op-
prefied, as in Barbary.
In one of the places where I flept in
thefe vallies, foon after I got under my
tent, I was amufed with the found of an
jjnftrument yery much refembling the bag-
pipe, and producing a wild and melancholy
{train. Curious to know the nature of
the inftrument, I fent for the perfon who
was playing upon it, and immediately pur-
chafed it. It proved to be made of a com
mon cane, about eight inches in length,
perfectly hollow, without any cork or flop
to it, with fix hples before, and one behind
for the thumb, between which was a nar
row brafs plate by way of ornament; it
had a common cord fixed to it, for the
purpofe of hanging it round the neck. It
in fadt altogether fp well cprrefponded with
the defcription of the pipe which was ufed
by the antient fhepherds, that I have little
doubt of this defcription reviving a few
claffieal and romantic ideas in the minds pf
fome readers. N4 It

ify a ;tour TO MOROCCO, Wc.
It is by no means a very eafy matter to
defcribe the different fenfations which are
experienced in pafling over thefe wonderful
mountains. Their immenfe height, the dan
gerous precipices, the vales, which from
their depth appeared like fo many abyffes,
infpired altogether an emotion of awe and
terror, which may be better conceived than
exprefled. On the other hand, the un
limited and great variety of profpedts dif-
coverable from their fummits, the numerous
herds of goats and fheep which were
fcrambling over the almoft perpendicular
cliffs, and the univerfal barrennefs of the
mountains, contrafted with the beautiful
verdure of the vallies immediately below,
formed on the whole a fcene fufficiently
beautiful and pidturefque, to counterbalance
the incpnyeniences we Ptherwife fuffered,

CHAP.

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 185

CHAP. VIII.
Arrival at Morocco. — Difficulty of obtain
ing an Audience. — Defcription of the Me
tropolis. — Buildings. — Houfe of the Prime
Minifier. — The Caftle. — The fewdry. —
State of the Jews in Barbary. — Account
of Jacob Attal, the Emperors
Jewifh Secretary. — Manners of the Jews
in Barbary.— J eweffes. — Drefs. — Mar
riages. — Difpofition for Intrigue in the
Jewifh Women. — The Emperor's. Palace
defcribed.
ON the 3d of December^ between five
and fix in the morning, we pro
ceeded on our journey, and foon reached a
fine plain, on which we continued the
whole way to Morocco, where we arrived
on the following day about noon, having
performed altogether a journey of about
one hundred and twenty-five miles.
My firft object on my arrival was to
fecure myfelf a convenient place of refi-
' - . '-¦¦¦ dence

?S§ A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
denee in the Jewdry; and having accom--
pjifhed that to my fatisfaction, I immedi
ately took poffeffion of it, expecting anxi-
cufly every hour to be fummoned before the
emperor. Though, however, his Moorifh
majefty was repeatedly informed of my ar?
rival, yet to my great aflonifhment I con
tinued a whole month in a ftate of uncer
tainty and expectation, without having it in
my power to obtain an audience, or to be
informed of the caufe which removed me
from Tarudant.
The number of anecdotes in circulation
through the town to my prejudice, excited
in me cpntinual uneafinefs, which even in-.
creafed in proportion to the length of time
that had elapfed fince my arrival.' By one
of the emperor's confidential friends it was
infinuated to me, that his imperial majefty
had heard I wa? young; that I was ad-
miniftering internal medicines for. difeafes
of the eye, which was a practice; totally
new and unaccountable to them ; that Eu
ropean medicines were always powerful and
violent, and that if. I had been fuffered to at
tend the prince much longer, his conftitution
would have been ruined for ever. Another evea

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. iSy
even went fo far as to fay, that the emperor
fufpected me cf having been employed by
my countrymen with a view to poifon his
fon. After much perplexing inveftigation into
the truth ©f thefe affertions, I now dif-
covered that my journey to Tarudant
was a private affair, fettled between the
conful and the prince ; that the emperor,
who at that time was not upon the beft
terms with the Englifh court, and who had
already ftopped all communication between
his dominions and the garrifon of Gibraltar,
was highly difpleafed that an Englifhman
fhould be introduced, unknown to him, for
the purpofe of attending his fon in a medi
cal capacity; that his Moorifli phyfician,
out of pique, had perfuaded the emperor,
that European medicines were too potent
for the prince's conftitution, and that in
reality his fon was in extreme danger while
under my care;— that in fine, all thefe
arguments weighed fo powerfully with the
emperor, that he not only determined on
immediately removing me from the prince^
hut at the fame time ordered fome of my
medicines to be privately fent up to Mo
rocco,

i88 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
rocco; where they were to undergo a ftrict
examination by his phyfician. The caufe
of my not being honoured with an audience,
I found, to arife from a defire in the emperor,
to be thoroughly informed of the ftate of
the prince's health before he faw me, that
according to circumftances he might give
me*' a favourable or a cool reception.
As fome alleviation to the uneafinefs
occafioned by this ftate of fufpenfe, I was
now much more comfortably fituated than
I had been before at Tarudant. The
apartment which I had procured was
one ftory high, in the houfe of a very
refpectable family, and was fpacious, clean,
and retired. From a Genoefe gentleman
in the fervice of the emperor, I was ena
bled to procure a table, two chairs, two
difhes, a few plates, fome knives and
forks, and a couple of tumblers. In ad-
• dition -to this, a Jew offered his fervices
as cook, who had lived fome time with an
European, and who proved an adroit and
ufeful perfon. Provifions of every kind
were remarkably plentiful, good, and cheap.
For beef and mutton I paid only about two
pence Englifh a pound, for fine fowls about fix

A TOUR TO MOROCCO; Wc. 183
fix pence each, and pigeons were frequently
fold at the rate of three halfpence a pair*
Had I, in addition to all thefe comforts*
¦been able to have procured a little agreeable
fociety, my fituation would have been very
fupportable; but in that particular I fcarcely
poffeffed more advantages than I had dur
ing my refidence at Tarudant.
The Genoefe gentleman, from whofe
houfe I had borrowed a part of my furni
ture, was at Mogodore, and the only
Europeans who were at that time at ?Mo
rocco, if we except a few Spanifh arti
ficers in the emperor's fervice, were part of
the Englifh feamen who had been fhip-
wrecked, a French officer, with fome French
feamen, who were alfo captives from a fimlr
lar accident, and three Spanifh friars. Out
.pf thefe I could only chufe for my fociety
the French officer and the friars.
With the firft, as I was acquainted
with the French language, I could.xonyerf©
pretty fluently, and I really found him. a
moft agreeable companion : he had taken
his paffage on board a veffel bound for th$
French fettlements on the coaft of Guinea,
whither he was proceeding to join his

regiment,

tg>> A TOUR TO MOROCCO; We.
regiment, and was fhipwrecked on that part
pf the coaft of Africa which lies in thft
direction of the Canary Iflands. This mif-
fortune, united to the hardfhips which foU
lowed it on his being carried into flavery
by the wild Arabs, and the little profpedt
which then appeared of his redemptioni
had made a deep impreffion upon his fpirits>
and fubjedled him to occafional attacks' of
hypochondria. The emperdr, it is true;
could not be accufed of ill treating any of
the captives ; on the contrary, he allowed
them daily a fmall fum of money, and per
mitted them to walk about at liberty. Hfa
detention of them, however, in the country,
without any immediate profpedt of return-*
ing home, was a fufficient reafon for them
ftill to confider themfelves in no other light
than that of flaves.
The Spanifh friars, who have a fmall
convent in the Jewdry, and who were
originally placed there for the purpofe of
redeeming captives, as they diftributed me
dicines to the poor gratis, confidered them*-
felves as being engaged in the fame pro-*
feffion with myfelf, and received me very
hpfpitably ; but as, from my not under
standing

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. i$f
ftanding their language, I was obliged to
converfe with them by means of my inter
preter, who fpoke Spanifh, the fociety
enjoyed with them was very limited indeed.
I cannot avoid expreffing my concern for
the fate of thefe worthy men, who are def-
tined to fpend the whole of their lives on a
fpot deftitute of all civilized fociety, where
they are continually fubjedled to the caprice
and infolence pf the emperor, as well as of
the worft part of his fubjedts. They ap
peared to me to be men who had received
much information from reading, as well as
from obfervation, and they very properly
employed their time in the duties of their
profeffion, in the offices of devotion, and ad-
miniftering medicines to the poor, in ftudy,
and in fuch innocent recreations as the li
mited fociety of Morocco affords.
To divert my thoughts from the great
uneafinefs which my fituation naturally in^
fpired, during fo long a ftate of fufpencey
I made daily excurfions through different
parts of Morocco ; though, from the con-'
tinual infults which I experienced when ih
the ftreets, even this amufement was at
tended with confiderable inconvenience.
8 The

192 A TOtfR TO MOROCCO, We.
The city of Morocco, which lies about
one hundred and twenty milts to the Nortfy
of Tarudant, ninety to the Eaft of
Mogodore, and three hundred and fifty to
the South of Ta.ngier, is fituated in a
beautiful valley, formed by a chain of moun
tains on the Northern fide, and thofe of'
the Atlas, from which it is diftant about
twenty miles, on the South and Eaft. The
country which immediately furrounds it is
a fertile plain, beautifully diverfified with
clumps of palm-trees and fhrubs, and water
ed by fmall and numerous ftreams, which
defcend from Mount Atlas. The em
peror's out-gardens, which are fituated at
the diftance of about five miles to the South
of the city, and are large plantations of
olives walled in, add confiderably to the
beauty of the fcene.
Morocco, though one of the capitals of
the empire — for there are three, Morocco,
Mequinez, and Fez — has nothing tore-
commend it but its great extent, and th'e
royal palace. It is enclofed by remarkably
ftrong walls, built of tabby, the circum
ference of which is about eight miles.. On
thefe walls there are no guns, mounted, but
.' , § 4 they

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 193
they are flanked with fquare towers, and
furrounded by a wide and deep ditch. The
city has a number of entrances, confifting
of large double porches of tabby, in the
Gothic ftile, the gates of which are regularly
fhut eveiy night at certain hours. As po
lygamy is allowed by the Mahometan re
ligion, and is fuppofed in fome degree to
affect population, it would be difficult to
form any computation near the truth with
refpect to the number of inhabitants which
this city may contain.
The mofques, which are the only public
buildings, except the palace, worth noticing
at Morocco, are more numerous than
magnificent; one of them is ornamented
with a very high and fquare tower, built of
cut ftone, which is yifible at a confiderable
diftance' from the city.
The ftreets are very narrow, dirty, and
irregular, and many of the houfes are unin- ,
habited and falling to ruin. Thofe which
are decent and refpectable in their appear
ance are built of tabby, and enclofed in
gardens. That of the Effendi, or prime
minifier, was among the beft which I vifited
in Morocco. This houfe, which confifled
O of

J94 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
of two ftories, had elegant apartments both
above and below, furnifhed in a ftile far
fuperior to any thing I ever faw in that
country. The court, into which the lower
apartments opened, was very neatly paved
with glazed blue and white tiling, and had
in its centre a beautiful fountain. The
upper apartments were connected together
by a broad gallery, the ballufters of which
were painted of different colours. The
hot and cold baths were very large, and
had every convenience which art could
afford. Into the garden, which was laid
out in a tolerably neat ftile, opened a room
adjoining to the houfe, which had a broad
arched entrance, but no door, beautifully
ornamented with checquered tiling; and at
both ends of the apartment the walls were
entirely covered with looking-glafs. The
flooring of all the rooms was covered with
beautiful carpetting, the walls ornamented
with large and valuable looking-glaffes, in
termixed with watches and clocks in glafs
cafes. The ceiling was carved wood- work,
painted of different colours, and the whole
was in a fuperior ftile of Moorifh grandeur.
This and a few others are the only decent
habitations

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 195
habitations in Morocco. The generality of
them ferve only to imprefs the traveller with
the idea of a miferable and deferted city.
The Elcaisseria is a particular part
ofthe town where fluffs and other valuable
articles are expofed to fale. It confifts pf
a number of fmall fhops, formed in the
walls of the houfes, about a yard from the
ground, of fuch an height within as juft to
admit a man to fit in one of them crofs-
legged. The goods and drawers are fo
arranged round him, that when he ferves
his cuftomers, who are ftanding all the time
out in the ftreet, he can reach down any
article he wants, without being under the
neceffity of moving. Thefe fhops, which
are found in all the other towns of the
empire, are fufficient to afford a ftriking
example ofthe indolence ofthe Moors.
There are three daily markets in different
parts of the town at Morocco, where pro
vifions are fold, and two weekly fairs or
markets for the difpofal of cattle, where
fhe fame cuftom is obferved as at Taru
dant. The city is fupplied with water by means
of wooden pipes connected with the neigh-
O 2 bouring

196 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
bouring ftr earns, which empty themfelves
inter refervoirs placed for the purpofe in
the fuburbs, and fome few in the centre of
the town.
The caftle is a large and ruinous build
ing, the outer walls of which enclofe a
fpace of ground about fhfee miles in cir
cumference. It has a mofque built by
Muley Abdallah, father to Sidi Ma
homet, on the top of which are three
large balls ; thefe, the Moors allege, are
formed of folid gold, but as no perfon is
permitted to afcend to them, we muft truft
to -their word for the truth of this affertion.
The caftle is almoft a town of itfelf; it
contains a number of inhabitants, who in
fome department or other are in the fervice
of the emperor, and all under the direction
ofa particular Alcaide, who is quite in
dependent of the governor of the town.
On the outfide of the caftle, between the
Moorifh town and the Jewdry, are feveral
fmall, diftinct pavilions," enclofed in gar
dens of orange-trees, which are intended as
occafional places of refidence for fuch of
.the emperor's fons or brothers as happen to
be at Morocco. As they are covered with

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 197
with coloured tiling, they have at a fmall
diftance rather a neat appearance ; but upon
approaching or entering them, that effect
in a great meafure ceafes.
It is a fingular circumftance, that in the
immediate vicinity of Morocco, for fome
diftance round the city, the ground is to
tally occupied by a great number of rats, of
a larger fpecies than any I had ever before
feen, which burrow under ground, and like
rabbits, allow ftrangers to approach very
near before they retire to their holes. They
indeed gave me every idea of a rabbit-war
ren in miniature.
The Jews, who are at this place pretty
numerous, have a feparate town to them
felves, walled in, and under the charge of
an Alcaide, appointed by the emperor.
It has two large gates, which are regularly
fhut every evening about nine o'clock, after
which time no perfon whatever is permitted
to enter or go out of the Jewdry, till they
are opened again the following morning.
The Jews have a market of their own, and,
as at Tarudant, when they enter the
Moorifh town, caftle, or palace, they are
^Jways compelled to be barefooted.
O 3 The

i58 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
The Jews in general are obliged to pay
to the emperor a certain annual fum, in
proportion to their numbers, which is a
, confiderable income, independent of his arbi
trary exactions. Thofe of Morocco were
exempted by Sidi Mahomet from this
tax, and in its room he compelled them to
take goods of him, of which they were
to difpofe in the beft manner they could,
and pay him five times their value ; by
which means' they were far greater fufferers
than if they paid the annual tax.
Every part of the empire more or lefs
abounds with Jews, who originally were
expelled from Spain and Portugal, and who
fled into Barbary as a place of refuge.
Thefe people are not confined to towns,
but are fpread over the whole face of the
country, Mount Atlas itfelf, as was be
fore mentioned, not excepted.
In every country where they refide, thefe
unfortunate people are treated as another
clafs of beings ; but in no part of the world
are they fo feverely and undefefvedly op-
preffed as in Barbary, where the whole
.. country depends upon their induftry and
ingenuity, and could fcarcely fubfift as a
nation

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 199
nation without their affiftance. They are
the only mechanics in this part of the
world, and have the whole management
of all pecuniary and commercial matters ;
except the collecting ofthe cuftoms. They
are, however, intrufted in the coinage of
money, as I myfelf have witnefled *.
The Moors difplay more humanity to
tlieir beafts than to the Jews. I have Hesn
frequent inftances where individuals of this
unhappy people were beaten (o feverely, as
to be left almoft lifelefs on the ground, and
that without being able' to obtain the leaft
redrefs whatever, as the magiftrates always
act with the moft culpable partiality when
a Moor and a Jew are the parties in a fuit.
What they lofe by oppreffion, however,
they in a great meafure make up by their
fuperior addrefs and fagacity, which fre-
* Doubloons and hard dollars are current in this country:
but the. coins peculiar to it are, gold ducats, ofthe value of
ten hard dollars, fome of five, of one and a half, and others of
only one; ounces, of the value of about five pence Englifh;
and blanquils, of five farthings, both filver coins ; fluces,
which are of copper, twenty-four being equal to a blanquil ;
but ounces are the money in which bills are ufually drawn
in the country. All the emperor's coins have his name in
Arabic ftamped on one fide ; and on the other the date, and
place at which they were coined.
O 4 quently

zeo A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
quently enables them to over-reach the
Moors — as I cannot compliment the Jews
of Barbary in general upon their probity
and principle.
Jacob Attal, the emperor's Jewifh
and favourite fecretary, had more influence
with his royal mafter, and did more mif-
chief by his intrigues and addrefs, than all
the other minifters put together. This
young man, who was a native of Tunis,
and who was tolerably well acquainted
with the Englifh, Spanifh, Italian, French,
and Arabic languages, was of an active and
enterprizing mind, and had fo well in
formed himfelf of the natural difpofition
of the Moors, and particularly of that of
Sidi Mahomet, that he had gained an
entire afcendency over the emperor. As
he knew that an unbounded love of mpr
ney was the ruling paffion of his royal
mafter, he not only furrendered to him half
of his own gains, but alfo furnifhed the
emperor with the earlieft and beft infor
mation concerning thofe who were in pof
feffion of wealth, as well as with a project
for extracting it from them. By thus at
tacking the emperor on the weakeft fide, he

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &SV. 201
he fecured his friendfhip ; but he fecured
it by means which expofed him to the re-
fentment and revenge of thoufands as foon
as the emperor died, which has been fince
too fatally proved. I muft, however, do
this young man the juftice to add, that
throughout the whole of his adminiftration,
though in fome inftances perhaps contrary
to his own intereft, he fhewed an exclufive
preference to the Englifh ; and of this the
Moors in general were fo fenfible, that they
gave him the appellation of the Englifh
ambaffador. The Jews in moft parts of this empire
live entirely feparate from the Moors ; and
though in other refpects oppreffed, are
allowed the free exercife of their religion.
Many of them, however, to avoid the arbi
trary treatment which they conftantly ex
perience, have become converts to the Ma
hometan faith ; upon which they are ad
mitted to all the privileges of Moors, though
they lofe their real eftimation in the opinion
of both fects.
In moft of the fea-port towns, and par
ticularly at Tetuan and Tangier, ths
Jews h^ve a tolerable fmattering of Spa
nifh;

202 s A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc

i

nifh; but at Morocco, Tarudant, and
all the inland towns, they can only fpeak
Arabic, and a little Hebrew. They nearly
follow the cuftonos of the Moors, except
in their religious ceremonies ; and in that
particular they are by far more fuperftitious
than the European Jews.
The Jews of Barbary,, fhave their heads
clofe, and wear their beards long; their
drefs indeed, altogether, differs very little
from that of the Moors (which I fhall
"hereafter defcribe) except in their being
obliged to appear externally in black. For
which purpofe they wear a black cap,
black flippers, and inftead of the haick
worn by the Moors, fubftitute the al-
beroce, a cloak made of black wool,
which covers the whole of the under
drefs. The Jews are not permitted to go
out of the country, but by an exprefs order
from the emperor; nor are they allowed
to wear a fword, or ride a horfe, though
they are indulged in the ufe of mules.
This arifes from an opinion prevalent
among the Moors, that a horfe is too noble
an animal to be employed in the fervice of
fuch infidels as Jews. '

A TOUR TO :MOROCCO, Wc. 20*
The drefs of the Jewifh women confifts
of a fine linen fhirt, with large and loofe
fleeves, whiph hang almoft to the ground ;
over the fhirt is worn a caftan, a loofe
drefs made of woollen cloth, or velvet, of
any colour, reaching as low as the hips,
and covering the whole of the body, except
the neck and breaft, which are left open,
and the edges of the caftan, as worn by
the Jeweffes-of Morocco, are embroidered
with gold. In addition to thefe is the
geraldito, or petticoats, made of fine
green woollen cloth, the edges and corners
of which are fometimes embroidered with
gold. They are faftened by a broad fafh of
filk and gold, which furrounds the waift,
and the ends of it are fuffered to hang
down behind, in an eafy manner. This is
the drefs they wear in the houfe, but when
they go abroad, they throw over it the
haick. The unmarried women wear
their hair plaited in different folds, and
hanging down behind. They have a veiy
graceful and becoming method of putting
a wreath of wrought filk round the head,
and tying it behind in a bow. This drefs
fets off their features to great advantage, and

^04 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
and diftinguifhes them from the married
women, who cover their heads with a red
filk handkerchief, which they tie behind,
and over it put a filk fafh, leaving the ends to
hang loofe on their backs. None of the
Jewifh women ufe ftockings, but wear red
flippers, curioufly embroidered with gold.
They wear very large gold ear-rings at the
lower part of the ears, and at the upper
three fmall ones fet with pearls or precious
ftones. Their necks are loaded with beads,
and their fingers with fmall gold or filver
rings. Round each wrift and ancle they
wear large folid filver bracelets ; and the
rich have gold and filver chains fufpended
from the fafh behind.
Their marriages are celebrated with much
feftivity for fome time previous to the ce
remony, and the intended bride, with all her
female relations, go through the form of
having their faces painted red and white, and
their hands and feet flained yellow, with an
herb named henna. A variety of figuresare
marked out on them with a needle, and then
this herb, which is powdered and mixed
with water into a pafte, is worked into the
hples made by the needle, and thefe marks
continue

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We: 20$
continue on the hands and feet for a lon» o
fpace of time. Upon the death of a Jew
{before and after burial) all the female
relations, with other women hired for the
purpofe, affemble in the room of the de-
ceafed, and for feveral days lament his lofs
by moft dreadful fhrieks and howlings, and
tearing their cheeks and hair.
The Jeweffes of this empire in general
are very beautiful, and remarkably fair.— ¦
They marry very young, and when married,
though they are not obliged to hide their
faces in the ftreet, yet at home they are fre
quently treated with the fame feverity as the
Moorifh women. Like the Moors, the
Jewifh men and women at Morocco eat
feparate ; and the unmarried women are not
permitted to go out, except upon particular
occafions, and then always with their faces
covered. A difpofition for intrigue in the female
fex is always found to accompany tyrannical
c6nduct and undue reftraint on the part of
ours ; and this difpofition is again made the
excufe for the continuance of thefe reftraints.
Thus the effect becomes a caufe, and when
women ceafe to be the guardians of their own

so6 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
own honour, they derive no credit from
the prefervation of it, and incur in then-
own eftimation but little difgrace by its lofs.
The Jews allege, in extenuation of their fe
verity, the licentious inclinations and artful
difpofitions of their women, and that a fingle
act of criminality in a daughter would be an
effectual bar to her ever forming a legal con
nection. The fame objection not being fo
applicable to their married women, they are
permitted to go out without reftraint. In
deed many of their hufbands, from interefted
motives, are too apt to connive at a con
duct, which, in other countries, would in
fallibly bring down upon them well-merited
contempt. The palace of Morocco is an ancient
building, furrounded by a fquare wall, the
height of which nearly excludes from the
view of the fpectator the other buildings.
Its principal gates are conftrudted with Go
thic arches compofedv of cut ftone, which
condudt to feveral open and fpacious courts;
through thefe it is neceffary to pafs before
we reach any of the buildings. Thefe open
courts were ufed by Sidi Mahomet for
the

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. SdJR
the purpofes of tranfacting public bufinefs,
and exercifing his troops.
The habitable part of the palace confifts
of feveral irregular fquare pavilions, built
of tabby, and whitened oyer; fome of
which communicate with each other, others
are diftindt, and moft of them receive their
names from the different to wns ofthe empire.
The principal pavilion is named by the
Moors the Douhar, and is more properly
the palace or feraglio than any of the others.
It confifts of the emperor's place of refi
dence, and the Harem, forming altogether
a building of confiderable extent. The other
pavilions are merely for the purpofes of plea-
fure or bufinefs, and are quite diftindt from
the Douhar. ,
The Mogodore pavilion, fo named from
the emperor's partiality to that town, has by
far the fairefi claim to grandeur and magni
ficence. This apartment was the work of
Sidi Mahomet, and is lofty and fquare.
It is built of cut ftone, handfomely orna
mented with windows, and covered with
varnifhed tiles of various colours; and its
elegance and neatnefs, contrafted altogether
with the fimplicity and irregularity of the
§ other

*vO A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
©ther buildings, produce a moft ftriking ef
fect. In the infide, befides feveral other
apartments, we find in the pavilion a fpacious
room, floored with blue and white chec
quered tiling, its ceiling covered with curi
oufly carved and painted wood, and its ftuc-
coed walls varioufly ornamented with look-
ing-glaffes and watches, regularly difpofed in
glafs cafes.1 To this pavilion Sidi Maho
met manifefted an exclufive preference, fre
quently retiring to it both for the purpofes
of bufinefs, and of recreation.
The apartments of the emperor have in
general a much finaller complement of
furniture than thofe of the Moors in the
inferior walks of life. Handfome carpet-
ting, a mattrafs on the ground, covered with
fine linen, a couch, and a couple of Euro
pean bedfteads, are the principal articles
they contain. The gardens within the walls
of the palace, of which he has feveral, are
very neat; they contain orange and olive
trees, varioufly difpofed and arranged, and
interfedted with ftreams of water, fountains,
and refervoirs. Thofe on the outfide are
nothing more than large tracts of ground,.
irregularly

,A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 209
irregularly planted with olives ; having four
fquare walks, and furrounded by walls.
In introducing the defcription of the pa
lace in this place, I have rather deviated
from the chronological feries of my narra
tive, as the events which brought me ac
quainted with this facred refidence of the
Moorifh princes were pofterior* to my vi-
fiting all the other quarters of the metro
polis.

CHAP.

«io A TOUR TO MOROCCO, fcfo

CHAP. DC
IntroduBton to the Emperor*— -Converfatiott
with his Moorifh Majefty. — Account ofthe
Emperor Sidi Mahomet — his Cha-'
raBer — his extreme Avarice — his mferable
Situation. — Anecdotes relative to the late
Emperor. "^-Anecdotes ^SidiMah om e t
— his Deceit and Hypocrify — his Charity.-
—Pufllanimous ConduB of the European
Powers. — Ceremonies ofthe Court of Mo
rocco. — ExaBionsfrom Strangers. — Ac-
tount of the principal Officers of State. —
CharaBer of the late Prime Minifier. —
Revenues of Morocco. — Wealth of the
Emperor, lefs than generally imagined. — >.
The Army of the Emperor— 'bow com
manded — his Navy.— Internal Government
of the Empire.' — Bajhaws. — Alcaides. — ¦•
Ell hackum.—Cadi. — Mode of adminifter'
ing Juftice. — Criminal Punijhments.
AFTER the lapfe of a month with
out a profpedt of obtaining an au
dience, my anxiety was inereafed to a degree
which in the end proved extremely injurious to

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 211
to my health. From the attention which
I had paid to moft of the emperor's minif
ters, who all of them in their turn had
occafion for my fervices, I thought I had
a right to expect fome little return. With
all that deceit which has characterized the
inhabitants of Barbary * from the earlieft
periods, they profeffed the warmeft friend
fhip for me, and affured me that they
would exert their influence Upon the em
peror to perfuade him to fee me. Among
the number was a Moor named Sidi
Brahiivi, to whom the prince had given
me ftrong letters of recommendation, and
who, during a tedious ficknefs which had
prevailed in his family, had received from
me the moft conftant attention. This
Moor had directions from the prince to in^-
troduce me immediately upon my arrival to
the emperor, and to fhew me every civility
that was due to fuch recommendation. All
thefe circumftances I conceived gave me a
fufficient right to expect that Sidi Brahim,
both from motives of duty to his prince,
and gratitude to me, would have exerted
himfelf in a manner correfpondent to fuch
obligations. But that was far from being
* Pun'ca fides.
P a the

ziz A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
the cafe. When his family was under my
care, he certainly did receive me with atten
tion, and treated me with kindnefs ; but
when my advice became no longer neceffary,
his friendfhip cooled in proportion; and
latterly, when we happened to meet, he
fcarcely feemed to recollect me. Upon
reflection, what was I to expect from a man,
who for his notorious crimes, though at'-
that time in great favour, had been pu-
nifhed by his fovereign, having had the
greateft part of his beard pulled up by the
roots ?
Unfuccefsful and difappointed through
this channel, I had recourfe to fome others
of the emperor's attendants, on whom I had
conferred favours, and who had perhaps
ftill greater influence with the emperor than
even Sidi Brahim. Among this number
were the prime minifier, and one of the
emperor's principal tales. From thefe
officers I experienced, however, much the
fame treatment as from. Sidi Brahim ;
and had I not accidentally been called in to
attend the wife of one of the emperor's
principal Jews, it is probable I might have
continued in the fame ftate of anxious, un
certainty

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. S13
certainty for fome weeks longer. As a re
turn for my attendance, the hufband of this
patient, agreeably to my requeft, had addrefs-
and influence enough to perfuade the em
peror to appoint an audience for me the very
day after the application.
On the day appointed for my reception
at court, about twelve at noon, three negro
foldiers, with \ large clubs in their hands,
came to my apartments to efcort me to the
palace, telling me that they had directions
to return with me inftantaneoufly, and that
they muft anfwer it with their heads,
if they delayed a moment in the execution
of their orders. Not fufpecting that my
Jewifh friend, for fuch I muft certainly
denominate him, could have effected my
wifhes fo immediately, I was by no means
prepared for the audience ; and I requefled
them to wait a few moments, till I could
enable myfelf to appear in a decent drefs
before the emperor. Far, however, from
acceding to my requeft, the foldiers became
quite impatient, and acquainted me that I
muft either proceed with them immediately,
or they would return and inform the fultan
that I had refufed to com;ly with his or-
P 3 ders.

314 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
ders. I now found myfelf under the ne
ceffity of fetting off, and we all actually ran
together to the palace with the utmoft ex
pedition. When we arrived there, I was
introduced to one of the mafters of the au
dience, who defired me to wait on the out-
fide ofthe palace till I was called for.
From the abrupt and fudden manner in
which I was forced away by the foldiers, I
expected to be ufhered immediately into
the imperial prefence ; but fo far was I ftill
from the confummation of this expedtation,
that I remained on the fpot where they firft
placed me, from twelve o'clock at noon tiU
five in the evening, revolving in my mind
what kind ofa perfon I fhould find the em
peror, what reception I fhould meet with,
and the anfwers which I ought to mafke to
any queftions he might propofe. Situated
as I was with refpedt to the prince whom I
had been attending, and confidering the
malicious reports refpedting my conduct
which had been circulated about Morocco,
the reader may well fuppofe that I was led
to form a variety of conjectures, concerning
what was likely to be the refult of the au
dience. I however placed my whole confi dence

A TOUR TO MOROCCO,^. 215
dence in the prince's recovery, which was a
circumftance, when clearly known to the
emperor, that muft undoubtedly operate in
my favour. This idea at laft entirely re
moved a number of uneafy and anxious re
flections, which had occurred to me when I
firft entered the palace ; and by the time
the meffenger came to introduce me to the
emperor I had brought myfelf to be as
calm and recollected as if my mind had been
perfectly at eafe, and had no reafon to be
otherwife. . From the court -yard into which I was
firft introduced, I was hurried with the
greateft precipitancy through two or three
others, till I arrived at the gate which
opened to the court where the emperor
was waiting to receive me, I was there
detained for fome time by the mafter of the
audience, owing to my refufalof the prefent
which Europeans are accuftomed to make
to the emperor upon being honoured with
an audience. I had been previoufly ac
quainted that no perfon was ever permitted
to appear in Jiis majefty's prefence, unlefs
accompanied by a handfome prefent ; but I
conceived my fituation to be in every re-
P 4 fpec^

216 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
fpedl fo totally different from that of other
ftrangers who vifited the court, that I
told the mafter of the ceremonies, if he
perfifted in refilling me entrance, I would
immediately return home again.
The Moor, finding that I was determined
not to comply with his requeft, and know
ing that the emperor was purpofely waiting
to fee me, was afraid to defer my introduc
tion any longer; I was therefore ufhered
into his majefty's prefence very expedi-
tioufly, and directed to place myfelf and my
interpreter in fuch a fituation as to be
feen without approaching too near his
perfon. The Moor who introduced me, upon
appearing in fight of the emperor, prof-
trated himfelf on the earth, kiffed it, and in
a very humble manner exclaimed in Arabic,
'* May God preferve the king !" The em
peror then ordered him to approach, and
deliver what he had to fay. He informed
his majefty, that in compliance with his
order, he had brought before him the
Englifh dodlor ; after which, having made
a very low bow, he retired, and the emperor
immediately defired me and my interpreter to

A TOUR "TO MOROCCO, Wc 2I?
to advance towards him ; but as foon as
we had got within ten yards of the emperor,
two foldiers came up, pulled us by the coat,
and acquainted us that we muft not pre
fume to approach any further.
I found the fovereign feated in an Euro
pean poft-chaife, placed in one of his open
courts, and drawn by one mule in fhafts,
having a man on each fide to guide it.
Behind the carriage were foot foldiers, fome
Negroes and others Moors, in. two divi-
fions, forming together a half-moon. Some
of thefe foldiers were only armed with large
clubs, while others had mufkets which they
held clofe to their bodies, and pointed per
pendicularly. i The emperor, after furveying me mi
nutely and with the greateft attention, ac
companied with no fmall fhare of hauteur,
demanded from my interpreter, in a very
ftern manner, if I was the Chriftian doctor
who had been attending Muley Absu
lem ? I defired him to anfwer, that I was.
> — '.'. How came you into the country, and
" were you fent by order of your own kfng,
f* or by whom?" To render my vifit of
more importance, I anfwered, " By order " of

2j8 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
** of government." — " Where did you learn
" your profeffion, and what is the name of
'Hhe perfon who taught it you ?" I in
formed his majefty. — " What is the reafon
" that the French furgeons are better than
*' the Englifh; and which do you think are
u beft ?" I anfwered, " The French fur-
" geons are very good, but it muft cer-
" tainly be allowed that the Englifh are in
" general fuperior, being more fcientifically
" educated." — The emperor <hen obferved,
that a French furgeon had come into the?
country, and in the courfe of his practice
had killed feveral perfons.
His majefty next afked, in a very auftere
manner, " What was the reafon I had for-
«' bidden Muley Absulem the ufe of
"tea?" My reply was, '< Muley Absu-
" lem has very weak nerves, and tea is
" injurious to the nervous fyftem." — " If
" tea is fo unwholefome," replied his ma
jefty, " why do the Englifh drink fo much?"
I anfwered, " It is true, they drink it twice
" a day; but then they do not make it {q
" ftrong as the Moors, and they generally
" ufe milk with it, which leflens its per-
" nicious effects. But the Moprs, whe^
" once.

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &&¦. 2r?
" once they begin to ufe it, make it very
" ftrong, drink a great deal, and very
" frequently without milk." — " You are
" right," faid the emperor ; *' and I know
" it fometimes makes their hands fhake."
After this converfation about a dozen dif-
tilled waters, prepared from different herbs,
were brought for me to tafte, and inform
the emperor what they were ; which were
hot, and which were cold, &c.
His majefty now condefcended to become
more familiar and eafy in his remarks, and
defired me to obferve the fnow on Mount
Atlas, which his carriage immediately
fronted, wifhing to know if we had the fame
in my country. I anfwered, that we fre
quently had a great deal in the winter fea
fon, and that England was a much colder
climate than- Morocco. The emperor
obferved, that if any perfon attempted to
go to the top of the mountain, he would
die from excefs of cold. He then informed
me, that on the other fide of the mountain
was a very fine, plain, and fertile country,
which was named Tapilet.
Obferving that the emperor was now in
3. good hnmour, I embraced the opportunity of

220 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
of mentioning to him, how much my feel
ings had been hurt by the malicious reports
which had been for fome time paft circu
lating to my prejudice ; that they were of
fuch a nature as to make me very defirous
of having my character cleared up, by a
proper examination into the prefent ftate of
the prince's health, as well as into the
nature of the medicines which I had been
adminiftering to him. The emperor in
reply faid, that he had already ordered his
Moorifh phyfician to examine very par
ticularly my medicines; who had declared,
that he could find nothing improper in
them. It is very clear, however, that fome
fufpicion muft have taken place in the breaft
of the emperor, to have induced him to
fend privately for thefe medicines, for the
purpofe of having them fo nicely examined;
from which circumftance I could not help
feeling it as a very fortunate event for my
felf, that the prince's health was in fo fa
vourable a ftate.
After a converfation of fome length, the
heads of which I have endeavoured briefly
to ftate, the evening being far advanced,
§ the

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 221:
the emperor commanded one of his atten
dants to conduct me home to his Jew; and
defire him to take great care of me ; adding,
that I was a good man, I was Muley Ab-
sulem's phyfician, and that he would fend
me home to my entire fatisfaction. He then
ordered his carriage to drive on.
Confidering myfelf as now acquitted of
the charges which had been infinuated
againft me, and elevated by the emperor's
promifes at the audience, I muft confefs
that I returned home with a much lighter
heart than I could boaft of when I went. I
now only waited for the arrival of the prince
at Morocco, which I conceived would con
firm the emperor's good wifhes towards me,
and make my fituation as agreeable as I Could
expect. Such are the fanguine hopes with
which we are apt to flatter ourfelves, after
having encountered difficulties, when the
fmalleft profpedt opens of relief.
In the evening my room was filled with
a number of the attendants of the emperor,
¦Who came to congratulate me on the honour
I had received by a fight of their royal
mafter; at the fame time to demand pre
sents, which on fuch occafions they alleged was

itt A TOUR TO MOROCCO; We.
was a cuftom to which all Europeans fub-
mitted. As therefore I faw there were no
other means of relieving myfelf from their
impertinent importunities, I was obliged
in fome degree to comply with their
demands. I found the emperor Sidi MahomeT
to be a tall, thin old mart, of near eighty
years of age, and of a fallow complexion*
From a vifage naturally long, and a diftor-
tion of one eye, united with an acquired
habit of aufterity, his appearance at firft
Was rather difgufting to ftrangers ; but that
impreffion was foon worn off by the affa
bility of his converfation, which he gene
rally confined to thofe fubjedts he thought
hioft adapted to the perfon with whom he
converted. At the fame time he difplayed
a great defire to acquire information as well
as to difcover the abilities of others. Some
years ago he fo far loft the ufe of his feet
as to difable him from walking* This
difagreeable effect was probably owing to
want of ufe, and to his accuftoming himfelf
conftantly to be either in his carriage or on
horfeback. When I faw himr his beard
and eye-brows, though before, as I was irt-
5 formed,

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc ?2j
formed, very dark, had acquired a perfect
whitenefs, and his voice was much impaired.
His drefs was exactly fimilar to that of other
Moors, differing only in the finenefs of the
materials, and he was only diftinguifhed
from his fubjedts by a larger retinue, riding
in a carriage, or when on horfeback having
an umbrella carried before him.
From the general tenour of his conduct
throughout his reign, and from his conver
sation, Sidi Mahomet appears to have
poffeffed ftrong natural talents, to which
had a good education been united, he might
have proved a great monarch. But the
want of education, and the illiberality and
fuperftition of his religion,, betrayed him
frequently into cruelty ; and the poffeffion
of arbitrary power tinged his character with
that intolerable caprice which has ever
diftinguifhed and difgraced the Moorifh
princes. Avaricious from his youth, he gave his
whole attention to the accumulation of
wealth; and it was from that motive only
that he appeared to give more encourage
ment to European merchants than any -of
his predeceilbrs. It is at the fame time
well

224 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc-
well known, that he occafionally oppreffed
them with fuch heavy duties, that they have
been obliged to fend home their veffels
empty. In hopes of adding ftill more to
his treafures, Sidi Mahomet became
himfelf a merchant, took up goods from
Europeans, and obliged the Jews to pay him
five times their value for them; fo that
there was not a fingle refource for becom
ing rich of which he did not avail himfelf.
Avaricious to this excefs, and naturally of
a very timid difpofition, his great object has
been peace : well aware that war could
neither enrich him, nor contribute to his
enjoyments in any refpect.
His reign, it is true, has been diftin
guifhed by fewer inftances of cruelty than
that of any of his predecefTors, but he has
certainly exceeded them all in the licen-
tioufnefs of his. attacks upon private pro
perty. He was always furrounded by people,
who, for the fake of rifing into favour,
were at all times ready to give him informa
tion concerning any of his fubjedts who
were rich. It was then his ufual courfe of
proceeding, to invent fome plea for confining
them in prifon; and if that did not fucceed, he

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 225
he put them in irons, chained them down,
and proceeded in a courfe of feverity and
cruelty, till at laft, wearied out with pu-
nifnments and difgraces, the unfortunate vic
tims furrendered the whole of their poffef-
fions ; which alone procured them the en
joyment of liberty, an opportunity of again
obtaining fubfiftence, or perhaps of once
more becoming the prey of the rapacious
monarch. Such of his fons as were in
friendfhip with him, were continually
making him prefents, as if apprehenfive of
the fame fate ; and fince I left the country
it has been ftrongly reported that my pa
tient Muley Absulem, who was the
only fon for whom the emperor profeffed
much affedtion, was plundered by his fa
ther of the greateft part of his riches;
which indeed were reputed to be very con
fiderable. Vices are never folitary ; and thofe which
are moft naturally connected with an ava
ricious and timid difpofition, are jealoufy
and fufpicion. Confcious how little he de
ferred the affection of his people, and lat
terly fenfible of having totally loft it, Sidi
Mahomet was in conftant fear of aflaflina-
Q^_ tion

zz8 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
tion and poifon. In this ftate he dragged
on a miferable exiftence ; an example to ar
bitrary kings, and a living proof that the
picture exhibited of the Roman tyrant, by
the farcaftic hiftorian, was not overcharged.
He feldom ftirred out of his palace, unlefs
accompanied by a numerous band of foldiers,
and even of thefe he had always his fufpi-
cions. At night he had conftantly fix blood
hounds in his chamber, and relying more on
the fidelity of the irrational creation than
©n man, he thought thefe a more certain
guard than his foldiers. His victuals were
dreffed and tailed in his prefence ; and at
dinner, though no perfon was permitted to
eat immediately with him, yet he always
had fome of his fons and minifters in the
fame apartment, who were helped out of
his difh. To complete the mifery of this
unfortunate old man, he lived under the
continual apprehenfion of being conquered
by his eldeft fon Muley Yazid, the late
emperor, who, in confequence of fome ill
treatment received from his father, retired
fecretly from court, and took refuge in a
fandtuary near Tetuan. This

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 22?
This prince, whofe grandmother was an
Englifh woman, had acquired the univerfal
efteem of the whole country by his generous
conduct and his great abilities ; and though
at that time in a ftate of poverty, and with
only four attendants about him, fuch was
his influence that he had only to ftep for
ward, and fay he wanted money and troops,
and he would fhortly have been at the head
of an army, that muft at any time have
entirely overwhelmed the late government
of Morocco. From motives of duty, and
perhaps of policy, this however was a ftep
he did not wifb to take, confcious that his
father could not long furvive, and that upon
his death he was certain of the fucceffion.
The emperor, notwithftanding, was ftill un
able to fubdue his apprehenfions; and when I
was at Morocco fent an army of five thou-
fand blacks, with an order to violate the fanc-
tuary, and carry off the prince. This order
was not obeyed, for the chief could not
place fufficient confidence in his troops ; and
the prince continued quiet in the fandhiary
till his father's deceafe.
To evince the policy, as well as the faga
city of Muley Yazid, I muft beg leave
Qj2 to

228 A TOtfR TO MOROCCO, Wc
to relate an anecdote, which occurred a?
fhort time previous to that period. The
people who have the care of the fanctuary
received pofitive orders from the emperor to
expel the prince by force ; which, if they
failed in doing, he affured them he would
fend and put every man, woman, and child
in the neighbourhood of the fanctuary to
the fword. The people, though well dif
pofed to the prince, intimidated by thefe,
orders, related faithfully to him the empe
ror's intentions, and informed him that, as?
their lives were at flake, they expected him
to remove, at the fame time recommending
him to another fanctuary at no great dif
tance, where he could' equally take- refuge.
The prince, who is one of the beft horfe-
men in the country, and who had a horfe-
of which he had the entire command, im
mediately promifed them to depart, and
mounted his horfe for. the purpofe. But what
was their furprife, when they found the:.
horfe would not ftir from the fpot, notwith-
llanding the apparently free ufe of whip and
ipur? Upon this the prince exclaimed,
«' You fee plainly that it is God's will I
** fhould continue here, and therefore no
" other

A TOUR TQ MOROCCO> Wc &9
*' other power fhall ever drive me out." This
had fuch an effedt upon the fupefftitious
multitude, that they preferred rifking the re-
fentment of the emperor, to the ^violation of
what, in their eftimation, was fo apparently
the will of God.
With refpedt to the other features of the
Emperor's character, his principal vices ap
pear to have refulted from that great corrup
ter of the human heart, arbitrary power:
for he was the moft arbitrary of monarchs,
having at his abfolute difpofal the lives and
properties of all his fubjedts. In fuch cir
cumftances, what man can be trufted, nay,
who would truft himfelf? In fuch circum
ftances, can we wonder, when we obferve
the occafional indulgence of intemperate re
venge ? Among thefe we are to account his
treatment of an unfortunate Jew who had
imprudently written fomething to his pre
judice, and for this flight offence was quar
tered alive, cut to pieces, and his flefh after*
wards given to the dogs.
Upon another occafion, a fimilar difpofi
tion was manifefted by Sidi Mahomet.
A Moor of fome confequence, and very opu
lent, gave a grand entertainment on the
Q 3 marriage

230 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
marriage of one of his fons. The emperor,
who happened to be in the neighbourhood,
and who well knew that magnificence was
a ftrikirtg proof of wealth, was determined
to be prefent at the feftival, in order that he
might more fully inform himfelf of the cir
cumftances of the Moor. For this purpofe
he difguifed himfelf in a common drefs,
and entered the houfe in the midft of all
the jollity, and perhaps the licentioufnefs, of
the entertainment. The mafter of the ce
remonies obferving a perfon of a mean ap
pearance intrude himfelf into the room fo
abruptly, ordered him out ; and upon the
refufal of the ftranger, he gave him a kick,
and pufhed him by violence out ofthe houfe.
For a fhort fpace of time after this occur
rence the whole affair paffed without no
tice, and probably had efcaped the memory
of moft ; and it was a matter of the utmoft
furprizeto the mafter ofthe houfe, to re
ceive an order, commanding him imme
diately to repair to Morocco. Upon being
introduced to the emperor, he was afked if
he recollected thecircu inftances which have
juft been related, to which he replied in the
affirmative. ", Know then," fays the em
peror,

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 231
peror, " I was that Moor whom, you treated
" thus contumelioufly ; and to convince you
" I have not forgot it, that fool and that
" hand which infulted me fhall perifh."
— I have feen, this unfortunate victim of
tyranny walking about the ftreets with one
leg and arm.
The emperor was as ready to revenge the
imaginary or the real injuries of his fub
jedts. To elucidate this affertion ; an Eng
lifh and French gentleman v/ere amufing
themfelves by the diverfion of courfing, in
the vicinity of Mogodore, when one of
their dogs unfortunately attacked the calf
of a Moor. This accident foon brought
out the villagers, who immediately fhot the
dog, and entered into averyferious quarrel
with the Chriftians, which terminated in a
general conteft. The women of the village
how thought it a proper occifion for their
interference ; and among their number was
one, who from old age had loft all her teeth
except two, and. thefe were fo loofe that
they could be with difficulty retained ; and
another, who had upon a former occafion
fractured her arm, the bone of which had
never been reduced or united. In the courfe
0_4 of

332, A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
ofthe difpute, thefe two women were un^
intentionally thrown down, and by this ac
cident the old lady loft both her teeth,
while the other infifted that the Chriftians
had been the occafion of fracturing her
arm. To be brief, the Chriftians were
overpowered by numbers, and were obliged
to retire to Mogodore, where they im
mediately made a complaint to the go
vernor of the infults they had received
from the Moors, who in their turn alfo ap
peared before him with a complaint againft
tlie Chriftians. The whole being referred
to the emperor, both parties were ordered,
up to court, with a view of giving the
matter an impartial hearing, and of admi-
niftering juftice accordingly. It is hardly
neceffary to intimate, that in this uncivi
lized country, and with a man of Sidi
Mahomet's- prejudices, the Moorifh evi
dence would be certain of a favourable^
hearing. The. circumftances indeed of one
woman loofing her teeth, and another hav
ing her arm fractured, appearedTin the eyes
pf the emperor fo plaufible, that upon their
being made known to him, without hefi-
tation he ordered the Chriftians to be put in
irons.

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 233
irons, and confined, till he fhould determine
upon the punifhment which fuch apparent
crimes merited. For this purpofe, the
Mufti, or high prieft, was defired to refer
the matter to the Koran, with a view of
punifhing the delinquents according to its
dictates. The prieft foon found out a paf-
fage, where it fpecifies an eye for an eye,
and a tooth for a tooth. The Englifh gen
tleman, whom the old lady fixed upon for
the perfon who had been the occafion of her
misfortune, was therefore directed to loofe
two of his teeth, which punifhment was im
mediately put in execution in the prefence of
the emperor ; while his French companion,
as they could not find out a punifhment in
the Koran for breaking an arm, received the
baftmado in a manner which difgraced huT
manity and the law of nations ; the prifo-;
ners were then fet at liberty.
This circumftance brings to mind how
narrowly I efcaped falling into a fimilar pre
dicament in the courfe of my detention at
Morocco. One day, within the walls ofthe
palace, I was grofsly infulted by a Moor, at
a time when, from the great anxiety I was
under, my temper was much difturbed, and
which

234 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
which fo far had put me off my guard as to
induce me to give the offender a blow on the
face. Upon this a Moorifh foldier, who,
unobferved by myfelf, was fitting behind me
in a corner of the wall, exclaimed in Ara
bic in a very auftere tone, " Chriftian, how
dare you ftrike that Moor ?" A full con-
fcioufnefs of having adled imprudently, and
a recollection of the emperor's former treat
ment of Chriftians under fimilar circum
ftances, now preffed upon my mind with
fuch force, that at firft I was at a lofs what
part I fhould take to extricate myfelf from
this difficulty. To walk away, would be an
acknowledgment of guilt, and would afford
the Moor a greater plea for making a com
plaint ; I therefore determined upon return
ing back and expoftulating with the man,
by telling him that I had been grofsly in
fulted, and muft therefore be under the ne
ceffity of making immediate application to
the governor of the town to have the offen
der feverely punifhed for attacking one,
who, from the nature of his employment,
was in the emperor's fervice, and confe-
quently under his particular protection. In
reply, the Moor faid, that had I kicked him,

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 235
him, horfewhipped him, or punifhed him
in any other way but that of flapping his
face, he fhould have overlooked it ; but a
blow in the face was in their law a crime
of fo ferious a nature, that he thought it his
duty to acquaint the emperor of it, who
had hitherto never pardoned any perfon con
victed of fo heinous an offence, but had al
ways cut off that hand of the Moor which
had offered the infult ; what then could a
Chriftian expect from him? From the
knowledge I had already learned of the
Moorifli charadter, I ftill thought it neceffa
ry to continue in the fame ftrain, by inform
ing the Moor, that he might act as he
thought proper, but that I fhould ftill fulfil
my refolution, and had no doubt but it
would have its proper effect. The man
now began to foften, and faid, that as I was
in the emperor's fervice, he would for this
time look over the offence, but cautioned
me to be careful how I acted in future.
Upon confidering every circumftance, I
thought it moft prudent to let the matter
drop here ; and I acknowledge that this af
fair proved a fufficient leffon to me to avoid in

236 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
I in futui-e entering into fimilar contefts with
the Moors.
Sidi Mahomet was fufficiently con
scious of his own power and dignity, and
:feept every perfon at the moft abject dif
tance ', no perfon daring to approach or
fpeak to him without his permiffion. Sen-
fible alfo of the exceffes into which he
might be betrayed by ungoverned paffion,
?f at any time he found his temper difcom-
pofed he indifcriminately ordered every per
fon out of his fight, It may eafily be con
ceived that the monarch had no difficulty
in fecuring obedience to this mandate, fince
all were fenfible that to have continued in
his prefence would have been highly dan->
gerous, if not fatal.
The only perfons who poffeffed any con
fiderable influence over the^ emperor were
his women ; and it was through that chan
nel that the moft fuccefsful bufinefs was
tranfadted with him.
Thus far for the vices of arbitrary power,
But deceit, hypocrify and falfehood were
qualities which could not be immediately
afcribed" to that fouree, unlefs we confider
%\iem as the neceffary effects of an educa-r.*'

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. itf-
tion in a defpotic court. As a cloak to
actions which he knew muft excite difap-
/probation and difguft, Sidi Mahomet
attempted to perfuade his fubjedts that they
proceeded from motives of religion and juf
tice ; and to give them a greater fanctjon
he enrolled himfelf in the fraternity of faints,
and paid a ftridt attention to all the fu-
perftitions and forms peculiar to his religion.
This conduct anfwered well with the igno
rant part of the community, but the more
enlightened could not but obferve that he
attended more to the ceremonial of his reli
gion than to its principles, which he made
no fcruple" of violating whenever it fuited his
convenience. What he promifed one day
he would refufe the next, fo that no depen-
dance was ever placed upon his word.
Added to thefe, he poffeffed a large portion of
that low cunning which is common to per
fons whofe minds and fentiments have not
been elevated or refined by literature or
fcience. He perhaps, indeed, found this
quality not without its ufes in governing
fuch a people as the Moors;' and no man
underftood their charadter and difpofition
better than he did. . He was aware that
refpect

238 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
refpedt is frequently deftroyed by unfeafon-
able familiarities, and therefore kept at a
moft ftately diftance from his fubjedts, . and
but feldom appeared among them. , By
thefe means his confequence was preferved,
and his conduct and his talents were in
volved in that impenetrable and awful mift
that furrounds the feraglios of Eaftern mo
narchs. The few rebellions which occurred during
his long reign, proved decifively that he
knew how to govern his fubjedts. When
ever a difpofition for revolt prevailed in any
of the provinces, a body of troops was im
mediately difpatched to plunder the whole
of the difcontehted province, and to feize
the infurgents, who were immediately con
ducted to court, and punifhed according to
the magnitude pf their refpedtive offences.
Some were put to death, others were de
prived of their hands and legs ; and for
leffer crimes the difcontented parties under
went the baftinado. This monarch em
ployed perfons in different diftridts to watch;
the motions of his fubjedts,, and to inform
him of every fymptom of revolt ; and thus^
4 by

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 259
by a well-timed interference, he was ena
bled to crufh rebellion in the bud.
In his conduct towards foreign powers
Sidi Mahomet difcovered the fame dif
regard to truth and juftice, the fame adroit-
nefs and cunning. He readily promifed to
grant every demand, provided he was to be
well paid for the conceffion. But it muft
have been valuable prefents indeed which
would induce him to perform his promife.
He protracted negociations in order that he
and his minifters might be enriched by
them ; but always as much as poffible avoid
ed bringing them to a final determination,
by either granting or refilling a favour.
If foreign powers omitted to pay him
the tribute he demanded, he immediately
threatened in the fevereft manner to com
mence hoftilities ; yet in this he was never
in earneft, for he was more afraid of his
enemies than they had reafon to be of him.
When he found they were not difpofed to
contend the matter with him, he inereafed
his demands accordingly.
In order to enhance his confequence, he
endeavoured to perfuade his fubjedts that
he was remarkably ikilled in matters of
which

Z$o A TOUR TO MOROCdo, We.
which they were entirely ignorant, "fa
preferve an appearance of ability, when he
was vifited by Europeans, if the ftranger
was a merchant, the fubjedt of converfation
was on manufactures, foreign commerce,
&c. If he was a military officer, fortifi
cations, attacks, Sec. were the topics; and
if a feafaring perfon, he would then fcratch
on a piece of paper a plan of his coafts and
harbours. Though he rarely advanced any
thing to the purpofe on thefe fubjedts; yet
as foreigners who vifited the court generally
appeared there with a view of obtaining
fome favour, and as it was never cuftomary
for any perfon to contradict the emperbr,
they always coincided with his opinionsj
and pretended at leaft to admire his exten
five abilities. This fully anfwered the in
tention of the emperor ; ,it induced his fub
jedts to form a good opinion of hisunder-
ftatfding, and he often collected fome real
information from the anfwers which his
vifitors returned to his queftions. - •
Sidi Mahomet paid more attention to
military affairs than to his navy, though if
any power refilled* to repair a frigate, it was.Vs
a fufficient inducement for him to threaten a war,

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 24*
a War. He thought himfelf perfectly ac
quainted with the art of fortification, but
his knowledge of it extended no farther
than a few loofe hints which he had receiv
ed upon the fubject from thofe Europeans
who had vifited the court.
In his court and perfonal appearance,
Sidi Mahomet affected great fimplicity
of manners, not allowing even his own fons
to appear in his prefence except in a plain
Moorifh drefs. They then were obliged to
uncover their cap or turban (for a Moor
never pulls off either except when going to
bed) and to wear inftead of the haick the
,«ulam, which is a cloak made of white
or blue woollen cloth, the front parts of
which they were obliged to throw over their
fhoulders, and as foon as they faw the em
peror to proftrate their headato the ground,
and kifs it, exclaiming, " God fave the
" king !" He then ordered them to ap
proach, and fpeak to him.
Though in general of a ftately demea
nour, he was fometimes known to unbend*
and occafionally took pleafure in converfing
with his courtiers on various fubjedts ; but
R they

\

242 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
they were permitted to advance no opinion
of. their own, but merely to approve of
what he faid. He frequently talked upon
the fubject of religion, and confidered himr
felf as well informed in that particular.
He fometimes endeavoured to explain to
them" different parts of the Koran, point
ing out its beauties, and impreffing on the
minds of his auditors the moft intolerant
prejudices againft Chriftians.
The mixture of good and evil fo incident
.to all human characters, was alfo,. to be
found in Sidi Mahomet. Notwithftand-
ing what has been remarked of his avarice,
his duplicity, and abfurd pretentions to re
ligion, there are fome circumftances which
ferve to leffen our indignation, and; thefe it
is only confiftent with juftice and candour
to ftate. It is generally allowed, that though
he muft neceffarily fuffer in a cbmparifon
with the princes of free and civilized na^
tions, yet when compared with his defpotic
predeceffors, his charadter greatly rifes in
the. fcale of humanity. He was feldom pr
.never wantonly cruel. He j was certainly
fometimestoo hafty in pronouncing fentence
.^n criminals, for which he has been often
known

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 243
known to exprefs the ftrongeft fientiments
of remorfe ; and his defire to prevent any
ill effedts from his paffions has been already
remarked. In his adminiftration of juftice he gene
rally acted very impartially, except indeed
when his own intereft was immediately con
cerned,, and then every other feeling gave
way. It muft, however, be acknowledged,
that though himfelf a moft notorious. vior
lator of the laws, he fo far refpedted them
that he never would permit others to follow
his example. Though fo extremely avari
cious, it has been already ftated that in fome
fevere inftances of public diftrefs, he gene-
roufly difpenfed his treafures to adminifter
relief to the fuflferers, ; and the number of
poor people who were daily fed at his palace,
of which I was an eye-witnefg, plainly
evinced that he was not deftitute of charity.
Europeans met with greater encouragement,
and, the wheels of Commerce were lefs clog
ged, during the reign of Sidi Mahomet
than at any preceding period.
• Thus was this monarch a lingular com
pound of liberality and intolerance, of ava
rice and benevolence, of cruelty and com-
R 2 paffion.

244 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
paffion. It is perhaps only in a ftate of
defpotifm that we behold this confufion cf
charadter. The legal reftraints of civilized
life, form themfelves into habits ; and the ec
centricities and caprices to which circum
ftances, fituation, the ftate of the health, or
perhaps the variations of climate, difpofe
the human mind, are no longer found toex-
ift in European countries, or exift in an in
ferior degree. Happy it is, when any re
ftraints are impofed upon us, to prevent us
from doing evil. Man is a creature not
formed for arbitrary power. So limited are
his views, fo variable his difpofition, fo
violent and tyrannical his pafiiOns, that the
wifeft of men would certainly not wiih for
abfolute authority, and the beft, if entmfted
with it, would probably abufe it.
The conduct of the emperor towards fo
reign courts has already been noticed. His
means of extradting money from them by
threatening a war, which perhaps in reality
he dreaded, has been likewife ftated. It
will probably not be unfeafonablein this
place to introduce a few remarks on their
Conduct towards him.
The obfervation that firft and moft natu-
I rall7

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 245
rally prefents itfelf upon this occafion is —
that nothing but grofs neglect or inexcufeable
ignorance could induce the European princes
in general to remain in a kind of tribu
tary ftate to a prince, who had neither an
army nor a fleet which deferved the name,
and a people whofe difpofition is lefs fuited
to enterprize than perhaps any other.
What had they to fear from him ? His
whole fleet confifted only of a few fmall
frigates and row-boats, ill - managed and
worfe manned, the whole of which might
have been deftroyed in one day by two or
three well-appointed European frigates.
The entrances of thofe ports where he laid
up his fhipping, if we except Tangier
and Larache, are, as I before obferved,
fo continually choaking up with fand, that
in a fhort time they will only admit fifh-
ing-boats, or the very fmalleft craft. The
towns are none of them regularly fortified,
except Mogodore, and that hardly pro
duces half a dozen men who underftand the
¦leaft of working the guns. And yet this
contemptible power gives laws to all the
coafts of Portugal and Spain, and may be
faid in fome meafure to command the en
trance of the Mediterranean !
R3 It

246 A TOUR TO MOROCCO,^.
It may be faid, he was too trifling a pow
er to notice ; if fo, why lavifh immenfe
prefents for the pUrpofe of keeping him in
temper ? Thofe who imagined they fecured
his friendfhip by thefe means were much
miftaken ; on the contrary, they only added
fuel to that flame of avarice which was not
to be extinguifhed. If he was one day pre
fented with a frigate,' he afked for two the
next; and the more his'tequefts were in
dulged, the more his inordinate defires vvere
inereafed. It is well known to thofe who have been
converfant with the Moors, that to fecure
their friendfhip you muft firft aflert your
own fuperiority, and then if you make them
a trifling prefent, its value is trebled in their
eftimation. The fame difpofition would
have been found in Sidi Mahomet, as in
the common Moor. So fir from courting an
alliance, it would rather have been good po
licy at once to quarrel with him ; the lofs of
a few towns, and particularly Mogodore,
to which he was much attached, from its
being raifed under his own aufpices, would
foon have reduced him to good- humour and
fubmiffion.
* ¦ The

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 2+7
The emperor's title is, " Emperor of
" Africa; emperor of Morocco; king,
" of Fez, Suz, and Gago ; lord of Dar a
" and Guinea; and great Sharif of
"¦ Mahomet."The principal amufement of the em
peror was latterly obferving his foldiers fire
with mufquets at targets, and rewarding
thofe who were fuccefsful with fmall pieces
of money. ' He alfo occafionally entertained
himfelf with falcons; but in general he,
fpent the greater part of his time with his
women. The emperor received foreigners, and
tranfadted all public bufinefs, either in his
carriage or on horfeback, in fome of the
ppen fpaces 'within the palace, Formerly,
indeed, on fuch occafions, it was fometimes
cuftomary to admit ftrangers into one of
the rooms ; and then he obliged them to
conform to the cuftom of the country, by
pulling off thqir fhoes when in his prefence :
but fome fpirited Europeans a few years ago
having refufed to pay that homage, he ever
afterwards gave them audience in one of
his court-yards. The Spanifh friars at Mp-
jioccp pnly were an exception to this rule,
R % for

2*8 . A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
for upon their informing him that they
never pulled off their fhoes to any power
under God, he always permitted them to
enter his room with them on.
Previous to a ftranger, whether an Eu
ropean or Moor, obtaining an audience of
his Moorifh majefty, a prefent was always
made tp one of his minifters, as an induce
ment tp him to acquaint his fovereign that
a ftranger fplicited fJhat honpur. Th,e firft
prefent, unlefs it was fomething very handT
fome, did not always fucceed; and it was .
frequently neceffary to apply to two pr three
minifters tp prqcure a fpeedy audience, or
even to fend in a prefent to one ofthe Sul-t
tanas, none of whom entertained any^very
uneafy fenfations about accepting the com-?
plinient. The latter was indeed the. mof|
pertain mode of fucceeding.
After having fo far accpmplifhed his
wifhes, the ftranger was next liable to be
detained a longer or a {horter time before
the capricious monarch would fix on a day
for receiving him. Even after this he would
frequently fend for him in a violent hurry
to the palace, and when there keep him
pending in one of the open courts / feveral
hours ;

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Ws. -Z0
fepu-rs ; ]he would then fend - an excufe
for not admitting him on that day; and
this agreeable procefs was iii many in
ftances repeated three or four times. The
tardinefs, infolence, and irregularity of the
court of Morocco is indeed beyond conr
ception ; and thofe who have»bufinefs there
ought to be poffeffed of all the philofophy
and patience of a Stoic, if they would avoid
the deprivation of their fenfes.
No perfon whatever, whether Moor pr
Chriftian, was admitted into the prefence
pf the fovereign, but when accompanied
with an handfome prefent, more or lefs*
valuable, in proportion to the favour in
tended to be requefted. Even the em
peror's own fons were not exempted from
this cuftom, upon paying their firft vifit after
a previous abfence. The generofity of the
fiiltormuft not even flop here; for when
the audience is over, the mafter of the cere
monies with his fervants, and the porters*
of all the gates in the palace, which are
gather numerous, have a claim for -their
perquifites, and are not to be got rid- of till
they obtain fomething. Indeed, as they
Receive pp pay from their royal mafter,'*thefe .
perquifites

250 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
perquifites were the only means they had
of obtaining a.fubfiftence*. After
* For the fatisfaction of thofe who may have occafion
to vifit the court of Morocco upon bufinefs, I have with dif
ficulty obtained an account of the fees which are ufually paid '
by European merchants to the emperor's attendants. Con-:
fuls and ambaffadors of courfe pay more in proportion,
Expences at Court.
r A more or lefs valuable prefent, ac-*
To the emperor — .< cording to the favour which is ex-s
t peeled.
To the mafter ofthe ceremonies for -j
public audiences,who introduces i The fame in proportion.
flrangers to the emperor — J
To the mari vyho attends the emperor at the Machoire 20
To — who cleans his mufkets - - - 30
To — who has the care of his horfes 2Q
To — who makes tea for the emperor - 10
To — who has the care of his lance - - 10
To — who has the care of his umbrella - 5
To — : who has the care ofthe emperor's (kddles 10
To the emperor's coachman - T r
To theman who has the care of the emperor's fpurs -. 5
To — who has the care of the emperor'-s tents ^o
To — who has the care ofthe emperor's-flippers 5
To — who gives the emperor water to drink - 5,
To — who takes care ofthe emperoHs chair 5
To — who takes the Hies off the emperor's face 5
To . — who takes care, of the emperor's fword - 5.
To — who takes care ofthe emperor's watch - 5
Te

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 251
After having completed the bufinefs at
court, the obtaining of the final difpatches
was commonly attended with ¦ the fame
difficulties as the obtaining of-; an audi
ence. The emperor was hot only na
turally very ,forgetful, -but fometimes, from
political motives, intentionally fo. He was
very well aware that the longer ftrangers
were detained at Morocco, the more his
minifters would be enriched by them j and
as the money came at laft, though by a
circuitous courfe, into his oWn pocket, he
ufed frequently to forget that ftrangers
were waiting for their difpatches. The
minifters, on the other hand, unlefs -ftimu-
lated by fubftantial prefents, were gene
rally extremely dilatory in reminding him
of them ; and there have been many in
ftances of foreigners being detained at Mo
rocco five or fix weeks, entirely owing to
this circumftance.
To the porters ofthe Machoire, for ten gates - • 40
To the emperor's gardeners - ' - - - 10
To calling for each audience - - - -10

Total - 205

An ounce, as I have before obferved, is a filver coin of
nearly the fame value as five pence Englifh.
With

s5z A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
With refpedt to the court of Morocco,
it latterly hardly deferved that appellation.
When the emperor was young, his faculties
clear, and his abilities in their prime, he
eritrufted to his minifters a confiderable
fhare of the public bufinefs ; but within the
few laft years of his life, when his ftrength
of body as well as pf mind were worn out by
hard fervices and old age, either from fufpi-
cion or dotage, he took the reins of govern
ment entirely into his own hands.. The
minifters and fecretaries not daring to notice
the miftakes of the fovereign, were obliged
to write out letters and fend orders, which
were contradicted almoft every hour, and
which occafioned the utmoftconfufion. The
court of Morocco, indeed, under the moft;
advantageous circumftances, was always no
torious for its irregularity and contradiction;
but a fhort time previous to the emperor'?
death the government could fcarcely be faid
to exift at all.
As an account of the officers employed
about the court of the emperor has never
been particularly detailed to the public, a,
fhort ftaternent of them will probably not be
uninterefiing: I fhall therefore^ in as few
words

A TfOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 2J3
words as poffible, point out their refpective
employments. The emperor's court confifted of,
i. A prime minifter, named theEFFENDi,
or friend; who was the refponfible'raan, and
during that period when the government was
carried on in a more regular manner,, all let
ters and orders were figned by him before
they were difpatched.
2. A principal fecretary to the treafury,
united with the office of Effendi ; who
had the difburfement at large of the empe
ror's payments, with fix Moorifh and feven
Jewifh under-fecxetaries.
3. A mafter of the horfe, with one hun
dred and twenty affiftants.
4. A grand chamberlain, a place com
monly united with that of prime minifter,
with feventeen affiftants ; nine of whom
were fons of Spanifh renegadoes, three fbns
of negroes, and the others MoOrS.
5.' A grand falconer, which is an hereditary
place, and perhaps the only one in the coun
try, with twenty affiftants.
6. A keeper of the great feal. >(• -
7. Two grand ftewards, with eight af
fiftants. . 8. Five

254 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
8. Five infpectors general of all the em
peror's affairs, the principal of whom was the
Effendi. 9. Three mafters of ceremonies for public
audiences, with forty affiftants.
10. An interpreter general for the Ger
man, Dutch, Englifh, French, Spanifh, and
Latin languages ; this man was a German,
renegado. (
1 1 . A fecretary for the Spanifh and Italian
languages, who was a Genoefe.
12. Two grand keepers of" the jewels and
plate. 1 3. A grand mafter of the baths.'
14. Two grand keepers df the arfenaL
15. Two keepers ofthe emperor's goods
and warehoufes.
.16. Three infpectors of mofques, &c.
17. Five keepers of the provifions.
18. Two keepers of the library.
19. Two aftrologers.
. .20. Four mafters of the carriages, with
two affiftants.
2 1 . Twelve fons of renegadoes, who have
never had beards, employed in drawing the
fmall carriages. 22. Three

A TOUR- TO MOROCCO, We. »5j
22. Three principal affiftants for prayers",
with feyenteen deputies, fons of the great
people of the empire.
23. Three, bearers of the umbrella, with
nine affiftants. I
.24... One bearer of the fabre.
25. Two bea.rets.pf the bafon.
26. Two bearers ofthe lance.
27. One bearer of the watch.
1.28. Five bearers of the emperor's own
firelocks, who are all Alcaides,' with fifteen
inferior affiftants.
, 20. A bearer of the colours and ftan-
dard. 30. A phyfician and a furgeon, with
feveral tradefmen, top numerous to men
tion. Upon taking a retrofpective view of the
employments under the emperor of Mo
rocco, we fhall not find that they differ fo
much from thofe of other ftates, as might
have been imagined, from the. ignorance of
the European cuftoms obfervable in this
people in other refpedts. The places of
Effendi and principal fecretary to the
treafury being united in one perfon, bears
confiderable analogy to the union of the
office

ts6 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, j&e.
office of prime minifter with thofe of chart-
cellor of the exchequer and firft lord of the
treafury. The appointments of fecretSry of
ftate, mafter of the horfe, grand chamber
lain, keeper of the great feal, and grand
falconer, are all places which are well
known, in European courts ; and many
others have nearly the fame correfpon-
dence. The principal difference between the
court of Morocco and thofe of Europe is,
that the poffeffors" of thefe appointments
in European courts enjoy very lucrative in
comes from their refpectiye ftates, while
thofe of Morocco receive none at all from
the court. They depend folely on the per
quifites which are paid them by thofe who
have bufinefs to tranfact with the court.,
Even this, however, fometimes forms a
very inconfiderable income, though" always
fubjedt to defalcation from the rapacious
hand of their fovereign, who feizes upon.
every thing with which he comes in contact.
The Effendi to the emperor had a de
gree of addrefs, and an elegance of man
ners, which would have done honour to an
European courtier. He received a ftranger ^with,

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 257
with a pleafing fmile, and a refpedtful bow;
fhppk him warmly by the hand, enquired
after his health, invited him to his houfe,
and offered him his fervices. As he was
rich, he was always extremely timid in the
prefence of the emperor, notwithftanding
he annually made him a large prefent to. keep
him in temper. Some of the princes, and
many others, followed his example in this
refpedt, judicioufly preferring the enjoyment
of a little with a certainty, to the running a
rifk of the whole.
The emperor of late had no regular court
days£ but fixed upon them as inclination. or
convenience didtated. On thofe days all the
princes who were at Morocco, and every
perfon in the immediate fervice of the em
peror, were obliged, to attend at the Ma
choire, an open part of the palace fo named,
wh,ere they, with the foldiers, were arranged
in the form of a crefcent ; the minifters and
ftrangers in front, and the fovereign, either on
horfeback cr in his carriage, in the centre.
Upon thefe occafions the public bufinefs in
general was tranfacted, foreigners were re
ceived, grievances were fta ted, complaints
heard (every perfpn being at liberty tp apply
S to

258' A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
to the emperor for redrefs) and malefactors1
were punifhed in the prefence of the fove
reign, and the whole court.
The revenues of the emperor of Moroc
co confift of a tenth on every article of
consumption, being the natural production
of the country, as allowed him by the Koran j
an annual tax upon the Jews ; his cuftom- ""
. houfe and excife duties ; and the tributes
which he exacts from his fubjedts, foreign
ftates, and European merchants, in the form
of prefents. From the laft articles he de
rives the moft confiderable part of his income.
The want of fyftem, and' the caprice of
Sidi MahoMeT, Was fuch, that it is utterly
impoffible to fay what was the annual amount
of all thefe branches of revenue. The duties
Were frequently changed three or four times
in the courfe of a year, and the tributes
were fubject to an equal degree of uncer
tainty. After all it has been a matter of
great doubt and fpeculation whether. Sidi
Mahomet was wealthy. From the grea
ter encouragement to commerce during his
reign, the trifling expence of his" cour&
every perfon engaged about it receiving little
or no pay from the emperor, the uncom monly

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wa'. 259
mbnly fevere exactions he enforced, and the
numerous voluntary prefents he received,
the natural conclufion was, that he muft
have been very richi On the other hand,
however, his expences at the lieges of Me-
lilla and Mazagan are knoyvn to have
been very confiderable; and thefe, united
to the valuable prefents he annually tranf-
mitted to the grand feignior, and to the
Sharifs * of Mecca, are to be placed in
the oppofite fcale ; and when this is done,
it will perhaps appear that his wealth was
far from confiderable.
The land forces of the emperor of Mo
rocco confift principally of black troops,
the defcendants of thofe Negroes which
Muley Ishmael imported from Guinea,
and fome 'few white, amounting altogether
to an . army of about thirty-fix thoufand
men upon the eftablifhment, two thirds of
which are cavalry. This eftablifhment, how
ever, upon occafion admits of a confidera
ble increafe, as every man is fuppofed to be
a foldier, and when called upon is obliged
ta,adt in that capacity. About fix thoufand
of the ftanding forces form the emperor'^
* See page 167.
S 2 body

a6o A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
body guard, and are always kept near his
perfon ; the remainder are quartered in the
different towns of the empire, and are un
der the charge of the bafhaws of the pro
vinces. They are all clothed by the em
peror,, , and receive a trifling pay ; but their
chief dependance is on plunder, which they
liave frequent opportunities of acquiring.
The foldiers have no diftindtion in drefs
from the other Moors, and are only marked
by their accoutrements, which confift of a
fabre, a very long mufquet, a fmall red lea
ther box to hold their, balls, which is fixed
in front by means of a belt, and a powder-
horn flung over their fhoulders.
The army is under the direction of a
commander in chief, four principal Ba
shaws, and Alcaides who command
diftindt divifions. With refpedt to the Al
caides it is proper to remark, that there
are three defcriptions of perfons who bear
this appellation : but thofe to whom I at
prefent allude are military officers, who
command foldiers from a thoufand to five
hundred, twenty- five, or even four men in
a divifion. 4 The

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 261
The black troops.which I have been de-
fcribingare naturally of a very fiery difpofition*
capable of enduring great fatigue, hunger,
thirft, artd every difficulty to which a mili
tary life is expofed. They appear well cal
culated for fkirmifhing parties, or for the
purpofe of harraffing an enemy j b& were
they obliged to undergo a regular attack,
from their total want of difcipline they
would foon be routed. In all their man
oeuvres they have no notion whatever of
order and regularity, but have altogether
more the appearance of a rabble than of an
army. Though thefe troops are fuppofed to be
•the ftrongeft fupport of defpotifm, yet from
their avarice and love of variety they fre
quently prove the moft dangerous enemies ,
to their monarchs ; they are often known to
excite fedition and rebellion, and their in
folence has fometimes proceeded to fuch ex-
cefies as nearly to overturn the government.
Their conduct is governed only by their paf-
, fions. Thofe who pay them beft, and treat
them with the greateft attention, they will
always be moft ready to fupport. This cir
cumftance, independent of every other*
S 3 makes

262 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
makes it the intereft of the monarch to keep
his fubjedts in as complete a ftate of poverty
as poffible, The Moors are indeed remark T
able for infincerity in their attachments, and
for their love of variety ; a military force,
in this kingdom efpecially, is therefore the
only means which a defpotic monarch can
employ for fecuring himfelf in the poffeffion
of the throne, Ignorant of every principle
pf rational liberty, whatever cpntefts this
devoted peopje may engage in with their
tyrants are merely contefts for the fuccefi-
fipn ; and the fole^ objedt for which they
fpend their lives and their property, is to
exchange one mercilefs defpot for another.
The emperor's navy confifls of about fifT
teen fmall frigates, a few xebepks, and be?
tween twenty and. thirty row-gallies. The
whole is commanded by one admiral, but
as thefe veffels are principally ufed for" the
purpofes of piracy, they feldom unite in a
fleet. The number of feamen in the feis
vice are computed, at fix thoufand.
I haye already noted the bad ftate of the.
ports of Morocco, and the probability of
their becoming ftill worfe ; it is therefore
evident, that very little is to be apprehended from

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 263
from the emperor as a naval power; and
indeed I am apt to believe, that though a
confiderable part of his dominions is appa
rently maritime, he will in the courfe of
fome years be deftitute both of fleets and
harbours. When defcribing the emperor's character,
I obferved, that there cannot exiftamore ab
folute government than that of Morocco1;
the lives and. properties of the fubjedts de
pending entirely on the will or caprice of
the monarch. The forms of order and juf
tice are, however, fiill preferVed, though
but very little of the fubftance remains.
An officer is appointed by the emperor
for the government of every province, who,
as I have already ftated, is named a Ba
shaw; he is generally a Moor of fome
diftinction, and frequently one of the em
peror's fons. This officer, who is appointed
or removed at the will of the fovereign,
has almoft an unlimited power throughout
the province which he commands ; he can
inflidt every punifhment but death, can
levy taxes, impofe fines, and in fhort can
plunder any individual he pleafes ; and in
deed, if the reader will not fmile at the ....
S 4 ' gbufQ*

264 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
abufe of words, the plundering ofthe public
and of individuals may be confidered as a
part of the duties of his office. When by
every fpecies of rapacity he has amaffed a
large property, it then becomes the bufinefs
of the emperor to divert this treafure into
his own coffers. Some frivolous plea is
therefore invented for the imprifoning ofthe
bafhaw, which is immediately put into
execution. The emperor then feizes upon
all his property, and afterwards reinftates
him in his government, in order that the
fame game may be played over again.— So
perfectly acquainted with mankind in every
ftate and fituation was our inimitable Shake-
fpeare :
" Rofencrantz. Take you me for a fpunge,
" my lord ?
" Hamlet. Aye, fir; tjhat foaks up the
" king's countenance, his rewards, his au-
" thorities. But fuch officers do the king
" beft fervice in the end ; he keeps them,
" like an ape, in the corner of his jaw ; firft
" mouthed, to be at laft fwallowed. When
" he needs what you have gleaned, it is hut
" fqueezing you, and, fpunge, you fhall be
" dry again." . t
Subordinate

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 265
Subordinate to the bafhaw, the emperor
appoints governors to each town, named
Alcaides, and officers with a fimilar au
thority in every Douhar or encampment,
who are called Shaiks. Thefe officers
have the fame power invefted in them over
their feveral diftridts as the Bash Aws have
in their provinces. But in other refpedts
their fituation is worfe, as they are not only
fubject to the tyranny and caprice of the
emperor, but alfo of the Bashaw.
The Alcaide, or governor, is invefted
with both the military and civil authority
in the town where he, refides.' As a military
officer he commands a certain number of
foldiers, whom he employs for the public
defence and tranquillity, and alfo for enforc
ing the payment of taxes, for the punifhing
of delinquents, and to convey his orders
and meffages to court, or into the country.
As a civil officer, he has the entire cogni
zance of all criminal matters, for which he
difcretionally inflicts any punifhment fhort
of death. #
If we only reflect on the dangeroiius extent
of this almoft unlimited power, it is eafy to
anticipate the abufes of it in a country where

26jS A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
where fo little attention is paid to juftice or
honour. For the moft trifling offences the
Alcaide condemns the delinquent not only
lobebaftinadoed very feverely, and imprifon-
<ed, but alfo to pay him a fum pf money, or
prefent him with fome other article equal
in value, which probably the prifoner has
been half his life in acquiring. It frequently
happens/indeed, that falfe accufations are in
vented purpofely againft individuals to plun
der them of their property. This is not the
pnly inconvenience arifing from an abufe' of
power ;— -for let- a perfon commit the moft
notorious crime, if he can carry up a pre
fent to the governor of greater value than
what was prefented by his accufer, he is not
pnly forgiven, but if he has the leaft inge
nuity he will find very little difficulty in
even throwing the whole of the crime upon
his antagonift. Indeed, in this countiy, juf
tice, or rather judgment, is moft eafily pro*
cured by purchafing it.
Under the Alcaide is an pfficer named
Ell-hUckum, or deputy governor, whole
office bears fome analogy to our principal
bailiff or conftable, Befidei

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. ^267
Befides thefe officers, there is in every
town a Cadi, who is both a civil judge arid
the chief prieft ; for it is well known that
the civil and religious inftitu tions are united
in the Koran. When~ any difpute happens
between individuals, refpedting matters of
right, or property, debts, infiilts, &c. the
perfon who fuppofes himfelf injured may
apply for redrefs to the Cadi, who is to.
determine the matter agreeably to the prin»*
ciples of the Koran. In the abfence of the
Cadi, any of the Talbs, who are common
priefts, are equally authorized to act for
him. If the -parties chufe to employ law
yers, the pleadings muft be carried on in
writing, otherwife they plead orally their
own caufes.. Upon thefe occafions the
Cadi or Talbs cannot openly receive any
payment, but it is well-known that they are
too frequently influenced by private pre
sents. The chief of the Cadis is the Mufti,
who is alfo the fupreme head of the
church. When any party in a fuit conceives that
Jie has reafon tp complain of the jurifdidtion
$f fhefe officers, he has a right tp appeal tp

268 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, tifr.
to the emperor, who gives public audiences
for the purpofe of adminiftering juftice.
This cuftom would be a great alleviation to
the evils of defpotifm, were the emperor
always to adminifter juftice impartially; but
valuable prefents haver fometimes too pow
erful' an influence even over the fovereign
himfelf. On this account, as well as on that
of the great diftance of many of the pro
vinces from the feat of government, the
people feldom embrace this laft refource in
applying for juftice.
The mode of punifhing criminals in this
country depends entirely upon the will of
the fovereign. Trifling offences are ufually
punifhed by imprifonment and the bafti-
nado, which is inflicting a certain number
of ftripes on the back and legs by leather
ftraps, and which is fometimes executed
with great feverity. For crimes ofa more
ferious nature, in fome cafes the hands are
cut off, particularly for Healing, in others a
leg and a hand. When I was at Morocco
four m'&n who had committed murder had
both their hands and legs cut off, and were
afterwards fhot. Other criminals are run
through with f words,, knocked down- with
clubs,

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 269
clubs, or are beheaded. Another mode of
punifhment is toffing, which is fo con
trived that the victim falls immediately
upon his head. There were feveral perfons
about Sidi Mahomet, mho from practice'
had acquired an habit of throwing perfons
up, fo as at pleafure either to break the
head, difloeate the neck, fracture an . arm, .
leg, or both, or to let them fall without
receiving any material injury. When I was
at Morocco a man received the latter
punifhment in the morning* and in the
afternoon the emperor made him a hand
fome prefent, as a recompence for what he
had fuffered.
To fum up all in a few words, there is
no mode of cruelty known which has not
been pradtifed at Morocco. I am well
aware that in the prefent uncivilized ftate
ofthe people, fevere and exemplary punifh-r
ments may be neceffary to keep, them in
any degree of fubjedtion ; but it muft be at
leaft allowed,, that fuch fe verities fhould
never be inflicted but when ther#'is a full
proof of guilt. The ccntrary of this I am
afraid is too often the cafe at Morocco.
The accufed is feldom permitted to make his

27<* A TOUR (TO MdROCCO, W'cj
his defence, but is fent out of the wofkf
very frequently without knowing for what
he fuffers.
Thefe punifhments Were always inflicted
in the prefence of the emperor. The for
mer monarchs of this country were their
own executioners, and SiDi Mahomet
acted in the fame capacity when prince j
but upon his aeceflion to the throne he re-»
iigned that refpedtable office to his Negro
foldiers. I never was prefent at any of
thefe executions, but was informed that legs
and arms are taken off by a common knife
and faw, and that the flump is afterwards
dipped in boiling pitch, which is the only '.
mode of flopping the haemorrhage with
which they are acquainted.
To evince in what a cool light all thefe
things are considered by the Moors, one of
the emperor's fons had undertaken to put
a memorial from me into his father's hands,
praying to be fent home. Upon my calling
upon him to afk if he had complied with my
requeft, he informed me, that when he
laft faw his father ,an opportunity had not
offered, as he was then very bufy in putting
fame perfons to. death. -4,
CHAP.

A T3UR TO MOROCCO, We. zft

CHAP. X.
Arrival of Mm ley Absulem dtf Morcc-
co— his pompous Entry. — Adventures of
fome Englifh Captives. — Account of wild
Arabs.- — Interview with the- Prince. — <¦
Flattering ExpeBations — difappointed. —
Unworthy conduB of the Prince — his
Departure for Mecca. — -Difagreeable
Embarrajfments.— Efforts of the Author'
to procure Leave to return.
ABOUT ten days after my interview
with the emperor; Muley Absu
lem arrived from Tarudant, in his way
to Mecca. As this prince was fo diftin
guifhed a favourite with the emperor, his
public entrance into Morocco was con-
dudted in a much more magnificent ftile
than any ?other part 'of the royal family
would perhaps have ventured upon; As
foon as intelligence arrived that the prince
was approaching the city, two of his
brothers, Muley SLEMMA-and Muley
Oussine, who happened to \ be at Mo-
X R0CC9

27Z A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
rocco at the time, the Bashaw, and all
the principal perfons in the city, received
orders to proceed on horfeback to meet him,
which they did in great form, and found
him encamped at the diftance of about
four miles. As foon as he had dined the
cavalcade commenced, confifting firft, of all
the prince's Alcaides, about twelve in
number, in front, flanked on each fide by
one ftandard-bearer, who carried each a red
flag, and one lance-bearer, carrying a lance
of an uncommon length. Behind them
was Muley Absulem in the centre; on
the right of him Muley Slemma, and
on the left Muley Oussine. The next
in order was the Bashaw, with the prin
cipal perfons of the city ; and the rear was
brought up by a troop of one hundred
cavalry, all abreaft, partly Negroes and
partly Moors, who had the butt end of their
mufquets refting on their faddles, with the
muzzles pointed perpendicularly. In this
manner the prince advanced till he ap
proached the walls of the town, where he
received orders to halt till the emperor
came to him ; an honour which had never
jbeen paid by Sidi Mahomet to any per fon

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 273
fon before; The emperor fhortly after ad
vanced on horfeback, with his fuite, con
fifting of about fifty foldiers. Upon his
approach Muley Absulem difmounted
and kiffed the earth; upon which the em
peror commanded him to rife, and approach
clofe to his perfon. He then bleffed him,
laying his hand on the prince's head, and
afterwards embraced him with all the af
fection of a fond father. Having made
many enquiries concerning his fon's health,
the emperor took his leave, and each re
tired to their refpective places of refidence.
As foon as the prince had got within the
walls of his garden, his troops fired three
vollies of mufquetry in an irregular man
ner, as is cuftomary on thefe occafions, and
there the ceremony concluded.
It may eafily be imagined, that I loft no
time in waiting on his highnefs, and I re
ceived from him as flattering a reception as
I could poflibly wiih. The prince inform
ed me that he had continued recovering
his fight gradually, and that he found him
felf in every other refpect in good health.
I took this opportunity of reprefenting to
T him

274 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
him how difagreeably I was fituated with
refpedt to the emperor, and trailed that he
would now clear up every doubt that might
have arifen on my account; and with this
requeft he promifed to comply. On paying
my fecond vifit, the prince informed me
that he had obtained the emperor's per-
miffion to have again recourfe to his medi
cines, and that he was certain he fhould.
have influence fufficient with his father to
perfuade him to give me up the Englifh
captives, as a compliment for my fervices.
The prince had brought along with him
to Morocco the Englifh captain, the only
Englifhman that had been left in flavery,
the black having died fome time before.
My reader will eafily conceive the pleafure
I felt at feeing my unfortunate countryman,
who had been left alone in the hands of
favages, now out of immediate flavery, and
with the chearful profpedt, according tp
the promifes of the prince, of being im
mediately fent home to his friends and
country. My fenfations indeed on the
occafion may be much more eafily felt than,
defcribed. But if this circumftance had
fuel)

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 27$
fuch an effect Upon me, what muft it have
had upon this unfortiinate officer, who for
fome months paft had beerrfeparated from
his people, one of whom was a near rela
tion, and without knowing whether they
were dead cr alive ; who with the evils of
flavery had experienced that of a fevere
fever, without having any perfon to cdnfole
him, or afford him that affiftance which is
fo neceffary upon fuch occafions ? To be
redeemed tinder fuch circumftances from
his inhofpitable fituation, to recover from
his illnefs, and to meet with all his com
panions at Morocco, well taken care of
by the emperor, was a change which he
had given up all expectation of ever be-
holding? The captain was a well-informed young
man, and an agreeable companion. He had
been brought up; as I before intimated, to
the prbfeflion of medicine and furgery, in
both 6f which he had received a good edu
cation. His firft effay in the world was as
furgeon tb a Guinea-man; after having made
feveral voyages in this capacity, however,
finding it a difadvantageous employment,
T 2 he

376 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
he obtained the command of a fmall veffet
in the fame trade, and this was his firft
voyage as commander.
Contrary to his inclination he was ordey^
ed by his owners to fail between the Cana
ries and the coaft of Africa, which is at all
times confidered as a dangerous navigation.
As he approached towards the fpot where
his -misfortune happened, which is inha
bited by wild Arabs, he got into a ftrong
Current, which drives directly towards the
fhore, and a perfect calm fucceeding, the
veffel unavoidably ran aground. The crew
immediately took to their boat, carried off
all the money on board, which was about
five hundred dollars, with a good fhare of
provifions and water, and got fafe to fhore.
The part of the country where they were
Wrecked confifted of deep and heavy fands.
As upon their firft landing they faw no
thing to moleft them, it was their intention
to proceed on foot, along the coaft to the
northward, till they could reach Santa
Cruz or Mogodore, where they could
make their fituation known. For ' this
purpofe they fet off with their money, pro
vifions

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 277
vifions and water, and met with no difturb-
ance till the end of two days. They then
obferved a party of wild Arabs, armed with
large clubs and knives, and rapidly advanc
ing towards them : their firft object was
to bury their money in the fands. Over
powered by numbers, they faw no chance of
making a fuccefsful defence, and therefore
every moment expected inftantaneous death,.
The favages, however, had a different ob
ject in view. They knew very well that
what property the unfortunate people had
about them was fufficiently fecure, without
being under the neceffity of deftroying their
lives in order to obtain it, and they were not
ignorant of the value of their perfons when
offered for fale; their ultimate object there
fore was, to bring them to market as
flaves. As each of their conquerors conceived
himfelf equally interefted in the capture,
they were fome time before they could agree
among themfelves how they fhould difpofe
of their prifoners; in the meantime fome of
the people were knocked down, others had
their pockets cut out, and the buttons torn
T 3 from

S78 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
from off their coats. They were at laft
feized on by different perfons, and carried
away to different places of refidence.
As I had an opportunity of feeing fome
pf thefe favages at Morocco, and as they
appeared to be in fome refpedts different
from thofe Arabs whom I had met with in
my travels, I fhall beg leave to defcribe
them. Contrary to the cuftom of the
Moors, they wear the hair long, which is a
dark black, and ftarting from their heads
like porcupine's quills. Their complexions
are pf a very dark brown, their nofes very
pointed, their eyes dark and flaring, their
beards long, and their features altogether.
fuggeft the idea of lunacy or raving mad-
nefs. In their perfons they are very ftrong
and mufcular; and many of them gp quite
naked ; others wear only a fmall garment
round their waifts .— But to return to my
narrative. The Englifh failors were put into mifer-
able huts or tents, where for feveral days they
could procure no fuftenance, but juniper-
berries, brackifh water, and now and then a
imall quantity of milko
6 From

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 279
Trom thefe people they were foon dif
pofed of to others, who put them into the
immediate employments of flavery ; thefe
employments were the carrying of water in
fkins, and performing various other kinds of
drudgery, which was at all times accompa
nied with ftripes.
After continuing in this ftate between
two and three months, they contrived to
get a letter conveyed to the Englifh vice
conful at Mogodore, expreffive of their
fituation, who forwarded it to the conful
general at Tangier, and at the fame time
wrote to Muley Absulem upon the fub-
jedt This prince, who commanded the
province adjoining to that where Captain
Irving and his people were detained, at the
expiration of eight months from the time
this accident happened, obtained the empe
ror's permiffion to redeem them out of fla
very, with orders to fend them up to Mo
rocco, where his Moorifh majefty thought
proper to keep them, till they were ex-
prefsly fent for by our fovereign; or, in
other words, till he received an handfome
prefent. T 4 About

28o A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
About four days after the' prince's arrival,
-the flattering affurances which he had at
firft given me refpedting thefe unfortunate
perfons were apparently confirmed, by his
informing me, that he had fucceeded to his
wifb.es with the emperor, in what he had
promifed relative to the Englifh captives;
that in two or three days he was to fet off
for Fez, in his way to Mecca, and that he
was to take us all with him as far as Sal
lee, whence a party was to be difpatched
to conduct us to Tangier.
Such agreeable intelligence, and from
fuch authority, afforded me the moft pleaf-
ing hopes that my journey would yet end tp
.my fatisfaction. I eagerly flew to the cap
tain to acquaint him with it; but he feemed
too much accuftomed to difappointments,
to entertain any very fanguine expectations
from my information. I think, however,
his fpirits appeared fomewhat revived upon
the occafion.
The day before the prince's departure I
was defired to ftate the number of mules
which would be neceffary to convey my
baggage ; at the fame time I was told, that in

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 28;
in two days we were all to fet off. To my
very great furprize, however, on the fame
evening, I was for the firft time refufed per-
miffion to fee the prince; an excufe 'being
made that he was then bufy, and therefore
wifhed me to call in the morning. At the
fame time I faw every preparation making
for the journey, and was pofitively told that
the prince 'was to depart from Morocco
the very next day.
As I could not help feeling uneafy and
alarmed at this circumftance, I repaired
early in the morning to the prince's habita
tion, to know the truth of what I had,
heard the day before; little enquiry how
ever was neceffary, fince the firft object
that prefented itfelf was the baggage mules
ready loaded; and, in addition to this cir
cumftance, I wastaformed, that the prince
was to fet off in an hour's time.
It was in vain that I fent in repeated
meffages to the prince, requefti.ig that he
would permit me to fee him. The only
anfwer I could obtain was, that he was then
engaged, and that I muft wait a little.
Wearied out at length by the urgency of
my

2?z A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
my folicitations, a particular friend of his
highnefs came out and told me, that the
prince had fent me ten hard dollars, with
orders to leave the garden immediately, as
no perfon but the emperor could fend me
jhome, Enraged at this unworthy treatment, I
defired the Moor to acquaint the prince,
that it was not money I wanted; I wifhed
him only to fulfi} his engagement, and that
till I had fome profpedt of that being ac-
complifhed, I would not ftir from the gar
den, unlefs compelled by force. The refill^
of this meffage was, that the fame man re
turned with two dollars more, and faid
that the prince had done all he could for
Jftie. If I chofe to go to one of the empe
ror's fecretaries, whofe name he mentioned,
he would give me the emperor's letter of
difpatch, and I then might proceed home in
what manner I pleafed, but that the prince
had no further bufinefs with me. Finding
that meffages. were fruitlefs^ I determined
to watch the opportunity of the prince's
coming out of his houfe, and as foon as he
had mounted his horfe I placed myfelf di?
rectly before him. In this laft refource,
however,

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 283
however, I found myfelf equally unfuc-
cefsful as before, and experienced the laft
extreme of rudenefs and ingratitude ; for be
fore my interpreter could pronounce a
fingle fentence the prince pufhed on,
and rode haftily by me, leaving me in
as difagreeable a fituation as can well be
ponceived .
To whatever point I diredled my view,
there appeared nothing comfortable in the
profpedt. I had come purpofely into the
country to attend the prince, with his moft
pofitive affurances that I fhould. be fent
back again, when he had no further occa
fion for my fervices. How great then muft
be my mortification to find myfelf in a
worfe fituation than the crane in the fable ?
fince inftead of obtaining from him this ne--
gative favour, in return for^all the fatigues
and inconveniences which I had experienced
pn his account, I found myfelf defer ted en
tirely, and left in the charge of a haughty
and perfidious emperor ! Doubt after doubt
took poffeffion pf my mind; and this, joined
with the reflection of having fo completely
difappointed the hopes of the unfortunate
feamen, as well as the favourable accounts I
Jiad written to the conful on the prince's
recovery.

284 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
recovery, preffed fo forcibly on my feelings,
that for the fpace of two or three hours
I was in a ftate little better than that of in
finity. As foon as I found myfelf in fome degree
recovered, I went to the perfon to whom I
was directed for my letter of difpatch, and
was informed that he had fet off early that
morning for Fez; and had the further fa
tisfaction of difcovering that the prince had
availed himfelf of this excufe, in order to
avoid my importunity. As no ftranger who
is fent for by the emperor can flir from the
court till he gets his difpatches, I now con-
fidered myfelf in every refpedt a prifoner.
Difappointed in every hope of emancipation,
I returned home, and immediately difpatched
^expreffes to the confuls at Tangier and
Mogodore, informing them of my fitua
tion, and earneftly requesting their immedi
ate interference. In the mean time I omitted
no other means which occurred to procure
my difpatches, but all without fuccefs. The
moft probable ftep which I could devife, or
at leaft which I could carry into effedt, was,
to convey to the emperor's hands the follow
ing memorial, by means of one of his fons. To

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 28;
To his Imperial Majefty of Morocco.
Moft auguft fovereign,
With all the refpedt and fubmiffion
due to your majefty's exalted ftation, I
take the liberty of informing your majefty,
that I had particular orders from the gover
nor of Gibraltar, under whofe command I
have the honour to ferve, to return imme
diately to my duty, upon my fervices being
no longer neceffary to your majefty's fon,
the prince Muley Absulem. That now
being the cafe, I only wait to know whe
ther I am to have the honour of conveying
your majefty's commands to Tangier,
either for your majefty's fon Muley Ha-
sem, or for the Britifh conful general.
I have the honour to be, moft refpectfully,
Your majefty's moft humble
and devoted fervant, W. Lempriere.
I got the above letter tranflated into
Arabic, worded in the ufual compliments
of the country, and having inclofed it in 2.
filk handkerchief, the mode in which all-
letters are prefented to royal perfonages in
Barbary,

Jl& A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
Barbary, I carried it to Muley Omarj
whom I had feen at Tarudant, with a
prefent of Irifh linen, in value about fix
dollars, wrapped up alfo in a filk handker
chief; and requefted him to deliver it intd
his father's hands the firft opportunity:
The prince firft received the prefent, and
then told me, that as we were always old
friends, I needed not have troubled myfelf
with bringing one; but that I might be
affined he would fettle the bufinefs to my
entire fatisfaction in a very fhort time;
The refult of this application was, a pro-
mife from the emperor of being fent home
immediately; but this was attended with
the fame infincerity which I had ufually
experienced. My next effort was, by making prefents
to the principal minifters to bribe them
over to my intereft, as my delay might pro
bably arife as much frpm the emperor's
\vant Df memory as from any other caufe j
for his faculties Were then fo much im
paired, that he was not able to recoiled!
circumftances from one hbur to another;
I was in hopes that by means of his minif
ters he would be continually reminded of
mei

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, 'We. zif
me; but, either becaufe my prefents were
not fufficiently large, or becaufe thefe ra
pacious minifters were in hopes I would
repeat them, I effected nothing by this
plan.

CHAP. XL
Departure of Capt. Irving. — Infolence ofthe
Populace to Chriftians. — Manners and
CharaBer of the Moors. — Education ofthe
Princes.— Perfons and Drefs ofthe Moors.
— Houfes a?id Furniture . — Ceremonies.- — -
Couriers. — Anecdotes illuftrative of Moorifli
Cuftoms. — Topics of Converfation at Mo
ro c c o . — Horfemanfhip . — Mufc and Poe
try. — Religion. — Mofques. — Slaves. —
Marriages. — Funerals. — Renegadoes. — ¦
Caravans to Mecca and Guinea.
IN a fortnight after the prince's depar
ture all the Englifh captives were or
dered to Mogodore, to remain under the
care of a gentleman of that place, till our
court

i&8 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, W*.
court fhould think proper to fend for thenu
Deprived by this circumftance of the fo
ciety of the captain, whofe good fenfe and
agreeable converfation leffened in a great
degree the uneafinefs I experienced from
the irkfomenefs of my fituation, I muft con-
fefs my fpirits did not receive much benefit
from the change* My only refource at
prefent for fociety was the French officer
whom I formerly mentioned.
Limited as our fociety Was to that of each
other, there exifted a further impediment
to amufement; for we could not leave the
Jewdry without being faluted with repeated
fhowers of ftones, opprobrious names, and
every infult that bigotiy and brutality could
devife. The ignorant of every nation are
intolerant; and there can fcarcely exift a
more defperate or favage defcription of peo
ple than the Lazzaroni of Morocco:
they are a mixed race, confifting of the
bafeft of the citizens, with a number of
ferocious mountaineers and wild Arabs, who
have wandered thither in hopes of ac
quiring a fubfiftence either by labour or by
theft. The

A TOUR TO MOROCCO- Wc. 289
The defcription indeed of a mingled race
Will ftill more extenfively apply even to the
more civilized inhabitants of this country.
In the towns particularly, tlie defcendants
of the different tribes from which they are
fprung may ftill be traced, viz. thofe of
the native Moors, of their Turkifh con
querors, and of the negroes who have
been introduced in the manner already re
lated. The complexion of the two firft is a
fallow white, and from this circumftance,
and from their intermarrying with each
other, it is not poffible always to determine
the origin of each individual; I fhalj there
fore clafs them both under the general
appellation of Moors. But the negroes,
though they form a large proportion of the
emperor's fubjedts, are now by no means fo
numerous as in the reign of Muley Ish
mael, who firft introduced them into the
country. They are better formed than the
Moors, and as they are more "lively, daring,
and active, they are entrufted with an im
portant fhare in the executive part of go
vernment. They conftitute in fact the
moft confiderable part of the emperor's
U army,

z$o A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
army, and are generally appointed to ther
command of provinces and towns. This
circumftance naturally creates a jealoufy
between them and the Moors, the latter
conlidering the negroes as ufurpers of a
power which they have no right to af-
fume. The negroes are blood-thirfty, capricious,
and revengeful. As foldiers, they manifeft
fufficient ardour when commanded by po
pular officers; but their attachment de
pends on the generofity of their chief, and
the energy, feverity, and cruelty of his dif
pofition : if he flackens in any of thefe
particulars, they either defert him, or deliver
him up to his enemy.
Befides the negroes which form the em
peror's army, there are a great many others
in the country, who either are or have been
flaves to private Moors : every Moor of
confequence, indeed, has his proportion of
them in his fervice. To the difgrace of
Europe, the Moors treat their flaves with
humanity, employing them in looking after
their gardens, and in the domeftic duties of
their houfes. They allow them to marry
among themfelves and after a certain num ber

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 291
her of years fpontaneoufly prefent them
with the invaluable boon of liberty. They
foon are initiated in the Mahometan per-
fuafion, though they fometimes intermix
with it a few of their original fuperftitious
cuftoms. In every other refpect they copy
the drefs and manners of the Moors; of
which I fhall endeavour to give the reader
fome general idea.
To think juftly and with candour of the
Moorifh character, we muft take into our
confideration the natural effects of a total
want of education, a moft rigidly arbitrary
government, and a climate calculated, as far
as climate has influence, to ftimulate and
excite the vicious paffions, as well as by its
debilitating and relaxing influence to wea
ken and depfefs the nobler energies of the
mind. To thefe we may add the difad-
vantages arifing from the want of a free
intercourfe with other nations, and the
influence of an abfurd and uncharitable re
ligion. In fuch a ftate of things the traveller is
not to be furprized if he obferves moft of
the vices of favage nations grafted upon
thefe of luxury and indolence; if he ob-
U 2 ferves

292 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
ferves fuperftition, avarice, and luft, the
leading features of character, with their
natural concomitants, deceit and jealoufy;
he is not to be furprized if he finds but little
of the amiable attachments and propenfities,
little of friendfhip or focial union with each
other, fince the nature of the government,
and the habits of his private life, are calcu
lated to infpire each man with a diftruft and
fufpicion of his neighbour.
I will not affert, however, that this cha
radter will univerfally apply. — However the
cuftoms and government of a nation may
militate againft virtue and excellence, there
are always fplendid exceptions to the pre
valent vices of every fociety. There are
certainly among the Moors many whofe
private virtues would do honour to any
civilized nation ; but I am forry to add, that
thofe characters are not numerous. Groan
ing under the fevereft opprefiions of def
potifm, they lofe all fpirit for induftry and
improvement, and fuffer indolence and igno
rance to reign without controul. Senfible
ofthe uncertainty of enjoying the fruits of
labour and ingenuity, the great majority of
the people remain content with the bare
neceflaries

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 293
neceffaries of life, or when in power en
deavour to enrich themfelves by the fame
means which had before kept them in a
ftate of poverty.
Arts and fciences feem to be almoft un
known here, or, if at all cultivated, it is
only by the Jews, who indeed are the only
induftrious and ingenious people in the
country. The Moors in general may be
confidered as exifting in the paftoral ftate,
following only a few mechanical trades, and
leaving every thing that requires invention
to the Jews, who have likewife the princi
pal management of their commercial and
pecuniary matters ; and even thofe few of
the Moors who are merchants are obliged
to have Jew agents-for the purpofe of tranf-
adting their bufinefs.
Fearful of having it difcovered that they
are rich,' fooner than part with money,
which, under fuch circumftances, is of little
Or no ufe to them, they deprive themfelves
of the luxuries and even comforts of life ;
they hoard up and conceal their treafures,
though feldom fo artfully but they are at
length detected, and confequently plundered
by the bafhaw, the prince, or the emperor.
U 3 To

294 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
To conceal more effectually their riches,
they are obliged to have recourfe to every
form of diflimulation and deceit; and being
exercifed in thefe qualities during the early
part of life, at a more advanced period they
become an eftablifhed part of their cha-t
racter. The Moors are naturally of a grave and
penfive difpofition, fervid in profeffions of
friendfhip, but very infincere in their at
tachments. They have no curiofity, no
ambition of knowledge ^ an indolent habit,
united to the want of mental cultivation,
renders them perhaps even more callous
than other unenlightened people to every
delicate fenfation, and they require more
than ordinary excitement to render them
fenfible of pieafure or of pain. It is to this
circumftance, and to their religion, which
teaches them to impute every thing to a blind
predeftination, that we may attribute that
paffive obedience which the Moors difcover
under all their misfortunes and oppreflions.
This langour of fentiment is, however, un
accompanied with the fmalleft fpark of cou
rage or fortitude. When in adverfity, they
manifeft the moft abject fubmiffion to their
fuperiors,

t .
A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 295
fuperiors, and in profperity their tyranny and
pride is infupportable. They, frequently
fmile, but feldom are heard to laugh loud.
The moft infallible mark of internal tran
quillity and enjoyment is, when they amufe
themfelves with ftroking or playing with
their beard. When roufed by refentment,
their difputes rarely proceed further than
violently to abufe each other in the moft op
probrious language. They never fight or box
with their fills, like our peafantry, but when
a quarrel proceeds to great extremities, they
collar each other, and fometimes terminate a
difpute by affaffination.
It has been fomewhere remarked, that
whatever debafes the human fpirit corrupts
at the fame time and depraves the heart.
That abjedtnefs of difpofition, which a ftate
of flavery induces, eradicates every noble,
every generous fentiment. The Moors are
difhonourable and unfair in all their deal
ings ; nor are the greateft among them ex
empt from propenfities which would dif-
grace the meaneft of the civilized inhabitants
of Europe. When the emperor's army was
at Tangier, one of the confuls invited the
Moorifh general and his particular friend to
U 4 t :a.

296 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
tea. Soon after their departure the conful
miffed one of his tea-fpoons, and knowing
the difpofi tions of the Moors, fent to the
general for it ; who immediately returned it,
and fimply apologized,, by faying he had put
it into his pocket by miftake.
When we treat of national genius or cha-:
racter, it were to be wifhed that language
fupplied us with fome term which might
ferve to indicate that habit or cuftom is
the great framer ofthe characters of nations.
Of this truth there can be no ftronger evi
dence than Morocco affords. Torpid and
infenfible as I have reprefented the Moors in
general to be, this character is by no means
applicable to them in early life. In the ftate
of childhood they poffefs an uncommon
fhare of vivacity and acutenefs, but they fink;
gradually into indolence and ftupidity as they
advance in life. It is evident, therefore,
that to the want of education only this cir
cumftance is to be attributed. While at
fchool they are fcarcely lefs remarkable for
attention than ability; and as they commit
their leffons to memory, no fmall fhare pf
application is required. This courfe is,
however, extremely limited, and continues for

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 297
for a very fliort period ; it confifts at moft of
being inftructed in certain parts of the Ko
ran, and perhaps learning to write. After
this all attention to learning ceafes; and
though their parents never indulge them,
yet they are rarely chaftifed, and are left to
themfelves in general almoft in a ftate of
nature. A late eloquent writer has remarked, that
f* the antients did not, like Archimedes,
" want a fpot on which to fix their engines,
" but they wanted an engine tp move the
•*' moral world. The prefs is that engine,"
— and to the want- of it may fairly be attri
buted the ignorance, the ftupidity, the fla
very of the African nations. The art of
printing is entirely prohibited and unknown
in Barbary; and, from fome inexplicable
caufe, moft of the manufcripts which were
poffeffed by their Saracen anceftors are loft
to the prefent generation of Moors. A
few indeed are ftill in being, which treat of
aftronomy, aftrology, and phyfic ; but thofe
pn aftrology only are at prefent ftudied..
If any thing could effedt an important
and beneficial change in thefe people, it
would be the example of fome great an4
magnanimous

i>,S A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
magnanimous monarch, who by fome lin
gular revolution might be raifed to the
throne of Morocco. In fo defpotic a go
vernment, where religion conlpires with
xinbit in teaching the fubjedt to confider his
prince as fomething more than man, much
more might be effected by example, than in
a free country, where the fovereign is merely
confidered as an individual placed on the
throne for the public good, fubjedt to all
the imperfections and frailties incident to
human nature, and where the mind, by
being allowed a free fcope for reflection,
difdains all authority but that of reafon and
truth. The plan adopted, however, for the edu
cation ofthe princes of Morocco, fo far
from tending to the improvement of their
minds, or the enlargement of their ideas,
ferves, on the contrary, too frequently to
render them ftill more remarkable for vice
and brutality than even the worft of their
fubjedts. As foon as they become of an
age that renders it imprudent to truft them
any longer within the walls of the harem,
they are taken out, and put under the care
pf one of their father's confidential Negroes,
x ' with

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We, 293
with whom they foon form a clofe intimacy,
from whom they imbibe all the bad quali
ties which are infeoarable from a ftate of
flavery, and by whom they are alfo initiated
in vices of every kind, in debauchery, cruelty,
and oppreffion. Their education extends no
further than to read and write ; and their
knowledge of the world is confined to what
they can obferve and learn in the courfe of
a pilgrimage to Mecca. They are totally
Unacquainted with the political hiftory of
every foreign power ; and their knowledge
pf their own government is confined princi
pally to its worft parts. To acquaint them
felves with the resources of the country, and
the improvements which from its fituation
it would admit of, or to direct any part of
their attention to thofe regulations in their
government which might tend to the ad
vantage and eafe of their fubjedts, or, to
their own real aggrandizement, is as much
out of the line of their education, as the
Principia of Newton. Thus they afcend
the throne with all the prejudices of igno
rance, with all the vices of barbarifm, with
a pride that teaches them to look upon their
fellow creatures as inferior beings, and with out

3oo A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
out any fentiments of tendernefs, compaf-
fion, or true policy, to reftrain the arm of
defpotifm from its moft cruel and fatal ex
ceffes. Thus ill-qualified in general are the
fovereigns of Morocco for effecting a re
formation in the manners and character of
their people.
The ignorance of the Moors is, however,
no bar to their loquacity. They fpeak very
loud, and generally two or three at a time, as
they are not very exact in waiting for a reply.
Ufelefs as the forms of politenefs may appear
in the eye of the philofopher, there are fome
of them which probably conduce in no
trifling degree to even our intellectual ex
cellence and improvement.
Perfonal cleanlinefs has been pointed out
by modern philofophers as one of thofe cir
cumftances which ferve to mark and deter
mine the civilization ofa people. It was in
vain that Mahomet enjoined the frequency
of ablution as a religious duty to the Moors.
Their drefs, which fhould be white, is but
feldom wafhed, and their whole appearance
evinces that they perform this branch of
their religious ceremonies in but a flpvenly
.manner. With this degree of negligence asto

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 33*
to their perfons, we may be juftly furprized
to find united a moft fcrupulous nicety in
their habitations and apartments. They en
ter their chambers barefooted, and cannot
bear the flighteft degree of contamination
near the- place where they are feated. This
delicacy again is much confined to the in-
fides of their houfes. The ftreets receive
the whole of their rubbifh and filth, and by
thefe means- the ground is fo railed in moft
parts of the city of Morocco, that the new
buildings always ftand confiderably higher
than the old.
The perfons of the Moorifli men are Co
difguifed by their drefs, that it is impoffible
to acquire any good idea of their form or
proportion. In height they are commonly
above the middle fize, and they are rather
meagre than fat. Their complexions in ger
neral are fallow in the Northern parts ofthe
empire,, but are darker in proportion to their
fituation towards the South. Their fea
tures have univerfally a great famenefs.
Their eyes are black and full, they have
an aquiline nofe, and in general a good fet
of teeth, The

$02 A TOUR TO MOROCCO. We.
The drefs of the men * confifts of a fhort
linen fhirt, with large and loofe fleeves
hanging half-way down to the ground. A
pair of loofe linen drawers, reaching almoft
to the ankle ; over which they wear another
loofe pair, made of woollen cloth. Over
the fhirt they wear two or three woollen
cloth waiftcoats of different colours, and of
European manufacture ; thefe garments are
made full as loofe as our great cOats ; they
are connected before by very fmall Suttons,
and are faftened tight round the waift by a
filk belt. Over thefe waiftcoats they throw
a velvet cord, which croffes the right fhoul-
der, and fufpends on the left fide a curved
dagger or knife, fheathed in a brafs cafe.
This is the drefs the Moors wear when in
their houfes ; but when they go abroad they
cover it with the haick, a part of drefs
which has been already noticed. It is thrown
over the whole of their other cloathing in a
carelefs but eafy manner, fomething fimilar to
the Scotch plaid. When the weather is wet or
cold, inftead ofthe haick, the Moors fub-
ftitute the sulam ; which is a large hooded
* The drefs, and general remarks on the Moorifh women
will be introduced hereafter, when we fpeak of the emperor's
harem. cloak,

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 303
cloak, reaching to the heels, all of one piece,
and made of blue or white woollen cloth of
European manufacture, without feams, clofe
before, and ornamented with filk fringes at
the extremities, on the breaft, and the ends
of the hood terminating with a filk tafiel.
The latter part of the drefs is fixed on the
head by means of a ftrong cord of camel's
hair; and among the common people it often
fupplies the place of a cap or turban.
Thofe Moors who have performed a pil
grimage to Mecca are entitled to wear a
turban, and are named Ell-hatch. They
are always treated with peculiar refpect.
Even thofe beafts of burden indeed which
have performed this journey are held in great
veneration, and upon their return are ex
empted from labour. The other clafs of
Moors wear only plain red caps. The
Moors in general fhave their heads clofe,
leaving on the upper part a lingle lock, and
wear their beards long. They ufe no ftock
ings or fhoes, but fubftitute in the place of
the latter yellow flippers. They are very
fond of beads, of which the better order
always carry a rofary in their hands ; but
they ufe them more as a matter of amufe- ment

304 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
ment than for any religious purpofe. Many
alfo wear plain gold rings on their fingers ;
and thofe whofe circumftances will allow
them to go to that expence, pofl'efs likewife
watches, which, like the rofary, they confi
der rather as an ornament than an article
from which any great utility can be derived.
Very few, in fadt, are properly acquainted
with their ufe.
This may ferve to give fome idea of the
drefs of the rich ; but among the poorer
clafs of people fome wear the linen drawers,
fhirt, and one woollen waiftcoat, and over it
the haick ; and others have merely a coarfe
woollen frock, belted round the waift, and
covered with the haick.
The houfes in moft of the towns in this
empire appear at a little diftance like vaulted
tombs in a church-yard ; and the entrance
into the beft of them has but a mean ap
pearance. They are of a fquare form, their
apartments are feldom built higher than the
ground floor, and their outer walls are uni-
verfally white -wafhed, which, in the ftreets,
and particularly when the fun is out, pro
duce a very unpleafant fenfation to the eyes.
All thefe circumftances, united to the want of

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 305
pf windows, the filthinefs and irregularity of
the ftreets, the dirty appearance and rude
behaviour of the inhabitants, and their total
ignorance of every art and fcience, leaves at
firft fight an unfavourable impreffion on the
mind of the traveller, which perhaps while
he continues in the country he can never do
away. As the roofs of the houfes are all ter
races, they ferve as verandos, where the Moorifh
women commonly fit for the benefit of the
air, and in fome places it is poffible to pafs
nearly over the whole town, without having
occafion to defcend into the ftreet.
As the beft apartments are all backwards,
a ftable, or perhaps fomething worfe, is the
place to which vifitors are .firft introduced.
Upon entering the houfe the ftranger. is
either detained in this place, or in the ftreet,
till all the women are difpatched out of the
way ; he is then allowed to enter a fquare
court, into which four narrow and long
rooms open by means of large folding doors,
which, as they have no windows, ferve like-
wife to introduce light into the apartments.
The court has generally in its centre a foun
tain, and if it is the houfe of a Moor of pro
perty, it is floored with blue and white chec-
X quered

306 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
quered tiling. The doors are ufually painted
of various colours in a chequered form, and
the upper parts of them are frequently or
namented with very curious carved work. —
None of the chambers have fire-places, and
their victuals are always dreffed in the court
yard, in an earthen ftove, heated with char
coal. When the vifitor enters the room where
he is received by the mafter of the houfe,
he finds him fitting crofs-legged and bare
footed on a mattrefs, covered with fine white
linen, and placed on the floor, or elfe on a
common mat. This, with a narrow piece
of carpeting, is in general the only furniture
he will meet with in Moorifli houfes ;
though they are not deftitute of other orna
ments. In fome, for inftance, he will find
the walls decorated with looking-glaffes of
different iizes. In others, watches and clocks
in glafs cafes ; and in fome the apartments
are hung with the fkins of lions or tigers, or
adorned with a difplay of mufkets and fabres.
In the houfes of thofe who live in the very
firft ftyle, an European mahogany bedftead,
with one or two mattreffes, covered with fine
white linen, is fometimes placed at each end
3 «f

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 307
of the room. Thefe, however, are only
confidered as ornaments, as the Moors always
fleep on a mattrefs, or a mat placed upon the
floor, and covered only with their haick,
or perhaps a quilt.
As the law of Mahomet ftridtly profcribes
the ufe of pictures of every defcription, this
delightful fpecies of ornament finds no place
in the houfes of the Moors. I was how
ever, acquainted with a Moor at Morocco,
who ufed tp exhibit a raree-fhow to his
friends and acquaintance, all of whom ap
peared to, exprefs infinite furprize and admi
ration at his exhibition. This, indeed, was
not the only inftance in which he was guilty
of violating the Mahometan law. He fcru-
pled not to drink very freely his bottle of
port or claret, which, as it was manufactured
by Chriftians, was from that circumftance an
aggravated offence. He employed me to
procure for him from Mogodore three
dozen of claret, which appeared to admi-
nifter to him infinite comfort and fatisfac
tion. This affection indeed for the produc
tions of Europe made him perhaps more
than ufually favourable to its natives, How
ever this may be, he was the only man who
X 2 fhewed

308 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
fhewed me much attention during my refi
dence at Morocco. He repeatedly took me
to his houfe, and made me little prefents of
various kinds, which at that place proved
very acceptable.
When a Moor receives his guefts he never
rifes from his feat, but fhakes hands, en
quires after their health, and defires them to
fit down, either on a carpet or a cufhion placed
on the floor for that purpofe. Whatever be
the time of day, tea is then brought in on a
tea-board with fliort feet. This is the high-
eft compliment that can be offered by a
Moor ; for tea is a very expenfive and fcarce
article in Barbary, and is only drank by the
rich and luxurious. Their manner of pre
paring it is by putting fome green tea, a
fmall quantity of tanfey, the fame portion
of mint, and a large portion of fugar (for the
Moors drink their tea very fweet) into the
tea-pot at the fame time, and filling it up
with boiling water. When thefe articles are
infufed a proper time, the fluid is then
poured into remarkably fmall cups ofthe beft
India china, the fmaller the more genteel, with
out any milk, and, accompanied with fome
cakes or fweetmeats, it is handed round to the
• company.

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 309
company. From the great efteem in which
this beverage is held by the Moors, it is
generally drank by very fmall and flow fips,
that its flavour may be the longer enjoyed ;
and as they ufually drink a confiderable
quantity whenever it is introduced, this en
tertainment is feldom finifhed in lefs time
than two hours.
The other luxuries of the Moors are fnuff,
of which they are uncommonly fond, and
fmoaking tobacco, for which the greater
part ufe wooden pipes about four feet in
length, with an earthen bowl ; but the
princes or emperor generally have the bowls
made of folid gold. Inftead of the indul
gence of opium, which, from the heavy
duty impofed upon that article by the em
peror, is too expenfive to be ufed by the
Moors, they fubftitute the achich^, a fpe
cies of flax. This they powder and infufe
in water in fmall quantities. The Moors
affert, that it produces agreeable ideas, but
own that when it ,is taken to excefs it moft
powerfully intoxicates. In order to produce
this effect, they likewife mix with their to
bacco an herb, named in this country kh ap,
which by fmoking occafions all the inebri^
X 3 ating

310 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
ating effects ofthe achicha. The ufe of
fpirits as well as wine is ftrictly forbidden by
the Koran; there are, however, very few
among the Moors who do not joyfully em
brace every private opportunity of drinking
both to excefs.
With refpedt to the hours for eating, the
people of this country are remarkably re
gular. Very foon after day-break they take
their breakfaft, which is generally a compo-
fition of flour and water boiled thin, toge-^
ther with an herb which gives it a yellow
tinge. The male part of the family eat in
one apartment, and the female in another.
The children are not permitted to eat with,
their parents, but take their meals afterwards
with the fervants ; indeed in moft other re
fpedts they are treated exadlly as fervants or
flaves by their parents. The mefs is put into
an earthen bowl, and brought in upon a
round wooden tray. It is placed in the cen
tre of the guefts, who fit crofs-legged either
on a mat or on the floor, and who form <a
circle for the purpofe. Having previoufly
wafhed themfelves, a ceremony always per
formed before and after meals, each perfon
with his fpoon attacks vigoroufly the bowl, while

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 3n
while they diverfify the entertainment by
eating with it fruit or bread. At twelve
o'clock they dine, performing the fame cere
monies as at breakfaft. For dinner, from the
emperOr down to the peafant, their difh is
univerfally cuscosoo, the mode of preparing
which has been already defcribed. I believe
I have intimated more than once that neither
chairs, tables, knives or forks, are made ufe of
in this country. The difh is therefore
brought in upon a round tray and placed on
the floor, round which the family fit as at
breakfaft, and with their fingers commit a
violent affault on its contents ; they are at
the fame time, however, attended by a flave
or domeftic, who prefents them with water
and a towel occafionally to wafh their hands.
From the want of the fimple and convenient
invention of knives and forks, it is not un
common in this country to fee three or four
people pulling to pieces the fame piece of
meat, and afterwards with their fingers ftir-
ring up the pafte or cuscosoo, of which they
often take a whole handful at once into their
mouth. Their manner of eating indeed was '
to me fo difgufting, that though cuscosoo
is in reality a very good difh, yet it required
X 4 fome

312 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
fome time to get rid of my prejudice fo far
as to be induced to relifh it. At fun-fet
they fup upon the fame difh, and indeed
fupper is their principal meal.
Such is the general mode of living among
the principal people in towns.. There are
confiderable multitudes, however, who do
not fare fo well, but are obliged to content
themfelves with a little bread and fruit
inftead of animal food, and to fleep in the
open ftreets. This kind of exift ence feems
ill calculated to endure even in an inactive
ftate; far more fevere muft it therefore be
to thofe who exercife the laborious em^
ployment of couriers in this country, who
travel on foot a journey of1 three or four
hundred miles, at the rate of between thirty
and forty miles a day, without taking any
other nourifhment than a little bread, a
few figs, and fome water, and who have no
better fhelter at night than a tree. It is
wonderful with what alacrity and perfe-
verance thefe people perform the moft fa
tiguing journies at all feafon s of the year.
There is a regular company of them in
every town, who are ready to be difpatched
at a moment's warning tp any part of the
country

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 313
country their employers may have occafion
to fend them. They conftitute in this em
pire the only mode of conveyance for all
public and private difpatches; and as they
are well known in the place to which they
belong, they are very pundlual in delivering
every thing that is put into their hands.
From their fteady pace in travelling, at the
rate of about four miles an hour, and from
their being able to pafs over parts which
from the mountainous ftate of the country,
and from the want of good roads, perfons
pn horfeback would find inacceffible, they
are indeed by far the moft expeditious
meffengers that could be employed. As a
proof of the amazing exertions of which
they are capable, I need only mention, that
there have been repeated inftances ofa cou
rier proceeding from Moroccp to Tan
gier, which is a journey of about three
hundred and thirty miles, in fix days.
As none but the very vulgar go on foot
in this country ; for the purpofe of vifiting,
mules are confidered as more genteel than
horfes ; and the greateft pride of a Moor
is to have fuch as walk remarkably faft, and
keep his footmen> of which the number is
proportionable

-f4 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
proportionable to the rank and confequence
ofthe mafter, on a continued run.
As the Moors are not fond of admitting:
men into their houfes, except upon particu
lar occafions, if the weather is fine they
place a mat, and fometimes a carpet, on the
ground before their door, feat themfelves
upon itcrofs-legged, and receive their friends,
who form a circle, fitting in the fame man
ner, with their attendants on the outfide of
the groupe. Upon thefe occafions they
either drink tea, or fmoke and converfe.
The ftreets are fometimes crowded with
parties of this kind ; feme engaged in play
ing at an inferior kind of chefs or drafts, at
which they are very expert ; but the majo
rity in converfation. The people of this.
country, indeed, are fo decidedly averfe to
ftanding up, or walking about, that if only
two or three people meet, they fquat them
felves dbwn in the firft clean place they can
find, if the converfation is to hold but for a
few minutes.
At Morocco, when I vifited Muley
Oussine, one of Sidi Mahomet's fons, I
was always received in the manner which I
have now defcribed. I found him fitting crofs-

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 315
crofs -legged on a common mat, in the fame
open place where his horfes were kept, and
his friends forming a femicircle round him,
I was immediately defired to form one of
the groupe, and was helped to tea upon the
occafion. In the courfe of our converfa
tion, the prince told me, that the Chrif
tians and Moors were brothers; that the
Englifh were very good men;" but that he
had a particular averfion to the friars, for
they were a determined fet of knaves,
and were neither friends to Chriftians nor
Moors. I found this prince a handfome young
man, of about the age of fix-and-twenty,
pf rather a dark complexion, but accompa
nied with an open and generous counte
nance. He had been a few years ago ap
pointed to the government of Tafilet,
where he fo far gained the affedtions of the
people under his government, that they pro
claimed him king; and he for fome time
governed with all the independent authority
ofa fovereign. This circumftance obliged
the emperor to difpatch an army againft
him, upon the arrival of which he imme
diately furrendered, and was brought to
Morocco,

Morocco, where he was deprived of all
his property, as well as his power; and
when I was in the country, he lived in a
very retired manner indeed. When at Ta-
filet, he had the character of acting very
liberally towards every perfon with whom
he was connected; at Morocco he mani-
fefted fome proofs of the fame difpofition to
wards me: merely for a trifling attention
which I fhewed to his favourite black, he
prefented me with a horfe, that proved as
good as any of which I had poffeffion while
in the country.
The only vice to which this young man
was addicted was that of drinking to a very
great excefs. In this refpedt, however, he
was not more culpable than all the reft of his
royal brothers. He told me, that if he did
not daily take before'dinner fix tumblers of
aquadent, a fpecies of brandy fomething
weaker than fpirits of wine, he would not
be able to hold up his head the remainder
of the day. He wifhed to know if this
cuftom was bad for his health; and if fo,
what I would advife him to do, I recom
mended to him the difufe of fpirits, and to
fupply their place with wine ; which he
might.

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 317
might either procure from the European
merchants at Mogodore, or he might ufe
the wine which was made by the Jews.
This -advice, however, the prince obferved
he could Aot follow, fince the Mahometan
law more particularly forbade the ufe of
wine, than that of fpirits. This, I replied,
might be true, in the ftridt letter ofthe law;
but when wine was ufed as a medicine, it
became no longer wine. This idea I found
fatisfied the fcruples of the prince, and he
promifed to follow my advice.
I was afterwards fent for to Muley
Slemma, another of the emperor's fons,
who, with the late emperor Muley Yezid,
were the offspring of a woman whofe pa
rents were Englifh. This prince, who is
about thirty-eight years of age, and of a tall
and majeftic appearance, with a very expref-
five and lively countenance, fhewed me un
common attention the whole time I was at
Morocco. His pavillion, where he received
ftrangers, and tranfacted bufinefs, was fitu
ated at the extremity of a long walk, in a
garden 'of orange-trees. It confifted of one
large room on the ground floor, fitted up in
tne fame ftile as that of Muley Absulem at

31* A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
at Tarudant. The prince was fitting
crofs-legged on a large mattrefs, covered
with fine white linen, and placed on the
floor fronting the door- way, with his
Moorifh vifitors on each fide of him,
forming a femicircle. Upon my firft intro
duction he exprefled uncommon pleafure at
feeing me, exclaiming, Bono, Bono Anglaifel
and added, that the Englifh were his brothers
and beft friends. I was then directed to
feel his pulfe, and to inform him whether
or not he was in health; as foon as I af-
fured him he was perfectly well, he defired
me to be feated on a narrow carpet, which
was placed on the floor for the purpofe,
and he then ordered one of his pages to
bring in tea, though fo late as twelve
o'clock at noon. Out of compliment to me,
for the Moors feldom ufe it, the prince fent
for milk, and faid, as he knew the Englifh
always drank it with their tea, he would
prefent me, with a milch cow, that I might
enjoy the cuftom of my own country.
This promife, however, entirely efcaped his
royal highnefs's memory, and the cow never
made her appearance.
In the courfe of our converfation, the
prince manifefted many indications of good
nature

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 315
nature and addrefs ; told me, that whilft he
was on his travels in Turkey, he had been
conducted from one port to another in the
Mediterranean by an Englifh frigate, the
captain of which fhewed him fo much at
tention, that he fhould always bear it in
remembrance. As foon as the ceremony of
tea was concluded, the prince ordered out
his horfe, which was a very beautiful
young animal, with a faddle ornamented
with a rich velvet cover, and gold ftirrups.
He then mounted him, and went through
all the manoeuvres of managing a horfe with
which the Moors are acquainted, fuch as
putting him upon the full fpeed, and flop
ping him inftantaneoufly, riling up on the
faddle and firing a mufket when the horfe
is on the full gallop, &c. in the perfor
mance of all which exercifes he feemed
very dexterous. The prince then afked me
if we could do fuch things in England; and
without waiting for a reply, ordered one of
his attendants to catch a fheep out of his
grounds, and take it home to my lodgings.
He faid, that as he always was fond of fee
ing his brothers the Englifh, he wifhed I
would vifit him twice a day during my con
tinuance

3zo A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
tinuance at Morocco, and then gallopped
off.  But to return to my obfervations.
The manner of falutation among the
Moors is, when two equals meet, by a quick
motion they fhake hands, and afterwards
kifs each other's hand. When an inferior
meets a fuperior, fuch as an officer of rank,
a judge, or a governor, he kifles that part
of his haick which covers the arm, and
fometimes, as a higher mark of refpedt, he
will kifs his feet. But .the compliment
due to the emperor, or any cf the princes
of the blood, is to take off the cap or tur
ban, and to proftrate the head to the ground.
When two particular friends or relations
meet, they anxioufly embrace and kifs each
other's faces and beards for a few minutes,
make a number of enquiries about the health
of each party, as well as that of their fami
lies, but feldom allow time for a reply.
The common topics for converfation
among thefe people, are the occurrences of
the place, religion, their women, and their
horfes. As curiofity is a quality which
naturally attaches to all indolent people, it
may eafily be conjectured that the Moors
are not deficient in this refpedt. It is in
credible

A TOUR TO MOROC CO, Wc. 3zi
Credible with what avidity they lay hold of
any trifling circumftance which may occur
in the neighbourhood; what pleafure and
what pride they feem to take in Communi
cating it; nor are they deficient in the arts
of magnifying or adorning the tale with
every addition Which may ferve to render
it mole palatable, or give it a greater ap
pearance of plaufi'oility.
Religion is alfo a favourite topic; but
this fubjedt is confined principally to thofe
focieties which are frequented by their
talbs, or men of letters. As thefe gentle
men, however, are not a little proud of
their acquirements in reading and writing,
they do not fail to embrace every oppor
tunity of manifefting their fuperiority over
thofe who are not fo happy as to be dif
tinguifhed by thofe accomplifhments.
Decency of manners and delicacy in con
verfation are among the moft certain marks
of refinement and civilization, and the con
trary vices are equally univerfal characte-
ridtics of ignorance and barbarifm. The
converfation of the Moors concerning their
women is of the moft trifling and dif-
gufting defcription, and confifts of abfurd
Y and

3*i A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
and vulgar obfervations, equally repugnant
to decency and common fenfe.
The fubjedt,. however, on which, like our
young men of fafhion in England, tliey ap
pear moft calculated to fhine, is their horfes.
It would indeed be truly difgraceful not to
be accomplifhed upon this topic,- fince it
appears to occupy, both day and night,, by
far the greateft portion of their attention-
I have formerly intimated that thefe animals-
are feldom kept in ftables in Moroccov
They are watered and fed only once a day,,
the former at one o'clock at noon, and the
latter at fun -fet; and the only mode whicb
they ufe to clean them, is by wafhing them
all over in a river two or three times a
week, and fuffering them to dry them
felves. Not withftan ding the attachment which*
the Moors manifeft to their horfes,- they
moft certainly ufe them with great cruelty .
Their higheft pleafure, and one of their
firft accompiifhments, is, by means of long:
and fharp fpurs to make the horfe go full
fpeed, and then to flop him inftantaneoufly i
and in this they certainly manifeft uncom
mon dexterity. The iron-work of their
bridles

A TOUR -TO MOROCCO, We. 323
rMdles is fo conftrudted that by its preffure
Pn the horfe's tongue and lower jaw, with
the leaft exertion of the rider, it fills his
mouth full of blood, and if not ufed with
the utmoft caiition throws him inevitably
bn his back. The bridle has only a fingle
rein, which is fo very long that it ferves
the purpofe of both whip and bridle. The
Moorifli faddle is "in fome degree fimilar
to the Spanifh, but the pummel is ftill
higher and more peaked. Their ftirrups,
in which they ride very fhort, are fo formed
as to cover fhe whole of the foot. They
either plate or gild them; according to fhe
dignity, opulence* or fancy of the poffeffor.
Their faddles, which are covered with red
woollen cloth, or, if belonging to a perfon
bf confequence, with red fatin or damafk,
are faftened with one ftrong girt round the
body, in the European ftyle, and another
round the fhoulders. ,
The Moors frequently amufe themfelves
by riding with the utmoft apparent violence
againft a wall ; and a ftranger would con
ceive it impoflible for them to avoid being
daihed to pieces, when juft as the horfe's
head touches the wall, they flop him with
Y 2 the

324 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wt.
the utmoft^ accuracy. To ftrangers an
horfeback or on foot it is alfo a common
fpecies of compliment to ride violently up
to them, as if intending to trample them to
pieces, and then to flop their horfes fhort
and fire a mufquet in their faces. This
compliment I have experienced, and could
very well have difpenfed with their polite-
nefs. Upon thefe occafions, they are very
proud in difcovering their dexterity in horfe-
manfhip, by making the animal rear up,
fo as almoft to throw him on his back,
putting him immediately after on the full
fpeed for a few yards, then flopping him
inftantaneoufly, and all this is accompanied
by loud and hollow cries.
There is another favourite amufement,
which difplays perhaps fuperior agility : —
A number of perfons on horfeback ftart
at the fame moment, and. accompanied
with loud fhouts, gallop at full fpeed to an
appointed fpot, when they ftand up ftrait
in the ftirrups, put the rein, which I have
juft obferved is very long, in their mouths,
level their pieces and fire them off; throw
their firelocks immediately over their right
fhoulders, and flop their horfes nearly at the
fame

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 325
fame inftant. This I am told is their man
ner of engaging in an action.
Though I am willing to allow the Moors
the merit of fitting a horfe well, and, as far
as is neceffary for the above-mentioned exer
cife, of having a great command over him,
yet their horfes are ill-bred, and they entirely
negledt to teach them thofe paces which in
Europe are confidered as the moft agreeable
for the common purpofes of riding. As none
of thefe animals in Morocco are geldings,
and as the Moors are unacquainted with
the ufe of the ring, they are obliged to
break them in when very young by taking
them long and fatiguing journies, particu
larly over the mountainous and rocky part
ofthe country, where they foon reduce their
fpirit; they then take the opportunity of
teaching them to rear up, Hand fire, gallop,
and ftop fhort in the manner already re
lated, and having accomplifhed this they
are fatisfied without any further qualifica
tion. For this reafon a Barbary horfe fel
dom can perform any other pace than a full
gallop or a walk ; and from being broken
in and worked hard before they have ac
quired their full ftrength, thefe horfes in a
Y 3 very

326 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
very few years become unfit for fervipe,
The Moors feldom ride the mares, but
keep them in the country for breeding;
and, contrary to the general opinion in Eu
rope, they confider them fo much more
valuable than horfes, that they are never
permitted to be exported.
Like all barbarous nations, the Moors are
paffionately fond of mufic, and fome few
have a tafte for poetry. Their flow airs,
for want of that variety which is introduced
when the fcience has attained a degree of
perfection, have a very melancholy famenefs;
but fome of their quick tunes are beautiful
and fimple, and partake in fome degree of
the characteriftic melody of the Scotch airs»
The poetry of their fongs, the conftant fub
jedt of which is love, though there are few
nations perhaps who are lefs fenfible of that
paffion, has certainly lefs merit than the
pufic. Their inftruments are a kind of hautboy,
which differs from ours only in having no
keys; the mandoline, which they have learnt
to play upon from their neighbours the
Spaniards; another inftrument bearing fome
refemblance -to a violin, and played upon in
a fimilar

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 327
a fimilar manner, but with only two firings;
the large drum, the common pipe, and the
tabor. Thefe united, and accompanied with
a certain number of voices, upon many oc
cafions form a band, though folo mufic is
more common in this unfocial country.
Upon all days of rejoicing, this kind of
mufic, repeated vollies of mufquetry, either
by men on horfeback or on foot, and in the
evening a grand attack upon the Cuscosou,
conftitute the principal part of the public
entertainments. Mountebanks andjugglers
alfo of every defcription meet with great
encouragement from the Moors.
There are no other places of reception for
the accommodation of travellers in this coun
try, except in their Fondaks, which are on
ly to be met with in large towns. Thefe con
fift ofa certain number of dirty apartments;
with no other accommodation whatever, but
the walls and roof, to protect the ftranger
from the inclemency of the weather ; and he
muft furnifh himfelf with every article of
which he may be in want, both in refpedt
to provifions and bedding. There is at the
fame time an open court, where the horfes
of all travellers are intermixed. Y4 In

328 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
In moft of the towns there are regular
fchools, where thofe children whofe parents
have the means of doing it, and have fenfe
enough to fend them (which indeed are but
few -in proportion to the whole) are in-.
ftrudted by the talbs in reading and writ-4
ing, and fometimes in the firft rules of
arithmetic. The greater part of the peo-;
pie, however, learn very little more than to
read a few prayers feledted from the Koran,
which are in common ufe, and are written
in Arabic characters, on paper which is paft-
ed on a board.
To fpeak particularly on the religion of
the Moors would require a volume, and
fuch a volume as would certainly be more
extenfive than entertaining. It is well
known they profefs the Mahometan faith,
and I may add, that they attend very rigidly,
to all the bigotry and fuperftition which is-
peculiar to that religion.
Since every ftranger who enters a mofque
is either put to death or is obliged to con
form to their, religion, a yery exact account
of their places of worfhip is not to be ex
pected from an European. The obferva-
tions I made en paft ant, the doors, which a:e

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 339
gre very large* being in the day-time always
ppen, I fhall endeavour to relate.
The mofque is ufually a large fquare
building, compofed of the fame materials
as the houfes, confifting of broad and lofty
piazzas, opening into a fquare court, in a
manner in fome degree fimilar to the Royal
Exchange of London. In the centre of
the court is a large fountain, and a fmall
ftream furrounds the piazzas, where the
Moprs perform the ceremony of ablution.
The court and piazzas are floored with blue
and white checquered riling, and the latter
are covered with matting, upon which the
Moors kneel while repeating their prayers.
In the moft confpicuous part pf the mofque,
fronting the Eaft, ftands a kind of pul
pit, where the talb or prieft occafionally
preaches. The Moors always enter this
place of wprfhip barefooted, leaving their
flippers at the door. On the top of the
mofque is a fquare fteeple with a flag-ftaff,
whither at ftated hours the talb afcends,
hoifts a white flag (for they have no bells,)
and 'calls the people to prayers, repeating
in Arabic three times, and addreffing him-
fidf each time to a different part ofthe town, How

33o A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
How great is God I Mahomet is his prophet!
Come all ye faithful; come to prayer. From
this high fituation the voice is heard at a con
fiderable diftance, and the talbs have a
monotonous mode of enunciation, the voice
finking at the end of every fhort fentence,
which in fome meafure refembles the found
o/a bell.
The moment the flag is difplayed every
perfon forfakes his employment, and goes to
prayers. If they are near a mofque, they
perform their devotions within it, otherwife
immediately on the fpot where they happen
to be, and always with their faces towards
the Eaft, in honour of the prophet Maho
met, who it is well known was buried at
Medina. The prayer which is generally
repeated on thefe occafions is a chapter
from the Koran, acknowledging the good-
nefsofGod and Mahomet; and it is ac
companied with various geftures, fuch as
lifting the hands above the head, bowing
twice, performing two genuflexions, bowing
again twice, and kifling the ground. The
whole of this ceremony they repeat three
times. Their

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 331
Their fabbath is on our Friday, and com
mences from fix o'clock the preceding
evening. On this day they ufe a blue flag
inftead of the white one. As it has been
prophefied that they are to be conquered
by the Chriftians on the fabbath-day, the
gates of all the towns and of the emperor's
palaces are fhut when at divine fervice on
that day, in order to avoid being furprifed
during that period. Their talbs are not
diftinguifhed by any particular drefs.
The Moors have three folemn devotional
periods in the courfe of the year. The
firft, which is named Aid de Cabier, is
held in copirnemoration of the birth of
Mahomet. It continues feven days, during
which period every perfon who can afford
the expence kills a fheep as a facrifice, and
divides it among his friends. The fecond is
the Ram a dam- This is a rigorous fall or
lent, held at the feafon when Mahomet dif-
appeared in his flight from Mecca to Medi
na; and is conducted by the Moors with
fo much fuperftition, that for thirty days,
from fun-rife to fun-fet, they lay afide all
worldly acts, and devote their whole atten
tion toexercifes of piety; carefully abftain- ing

jj? A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
ing from eating, drinking, fmoaking, wa fil
ing their mouths, or even fwallowing their
faliva ; and they are indulged with their
ufual cuftom of bathing only, upon condi
tion, that they avoid fuffering the water to
approach their heads, left any of it fhould
enter the mouth or ears. To make amends
for this ftridt obfervance of their lent during
the day, they appropriate the whole night
to the indulgence of every gratification, and
at the expiration of the fiaft, a general fefti-
val takes place, named the Beyran, which
continues feven days. The third is named
Llashore, and is a day fet apart by Ma^
homet for every perfon to compute tha
yalue of his property, in order for the pay
ment of Zakat, that is, one tenth of their
income to the poor, and other pious ufes.
Although this feaft only lafts a fingle day,
yet it is celebrated with far greater magni-p
licence than either of the others,
There is alfo a fuperftitious cuftom among-
the Moors, when any thing of moment is
to be undertaken, fuch as going on a dan
gerous journey or voyage, the difpofal of
their children in marriage, &c. for fome
grave perfon to make an harangue to the
multitude,

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 333
multitude, upon which his auditors call for
the key of direction. By this is meant the
performance of joining the hands, looking
fteadfaftly on the palms during the admoni
tion, then by a joint concurrence calling on
God and the prophet, and concluding the
ceremony by ftroking their faces with both
hands, and joining in chorus, faying Salem,
Salem, (peace be with you) with much de
votion. The due performance of this cere
mony, they conceive will enfure them cer
tain fuccefs in all their undertakings.
The Moors compute time by lunar
months, and count the days of the week by
the firft, fecond, third, &c. beginning from
our Sunday. They ufe a common reed for
writing, and begin their manufcripts from
right to left.
The Moors marry very young, many of
their females not being more than twelve
years of age at their nuptials. As Maho
metans, it is well known that their religion
admits of polygamy to the extent of four
wives, and as many concubines as they
pleafe; but if we except the very opulent*-
the people feldom avail themfelves of this
indulgence, fince it entails on them a vaft
additional

334 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
additional expence in houfe-keeping, and iff
providing for a large family; Whatever
inftitution is contrary to truth and found
morality will in practice refute itfelf; nof
is any further argument than this fingle
obfervation wanting to anfwer all the ab-
furdities which have been advanced in fa
vour of a plurality of wives. In contract
ing marriage the parents of both parties
are the only agents, and the intended bride
and bridegroom never fee each other till
the ceremony is performed; The marriage
fettlements are made before the Cadi, and
then the friends of the bride produce her
portion, or if not,- the hufband agrees to"
fettle a certain fum upon her, in cafe he
fhould die, or divorce her on account of
barrennefs, or any other caufe. The chil
dren of the wives have all an equal claim
to the effects of the father and mother, but
thofe of the concubines can each only claim
half a fhare. v
When the marriage is finally agreed
upon, the bride is kept at home eight daysy
to receive her female friends, who pay con
gratulatory vifits every day. At the 0 fame
time arr a l b attends upon her, to converfe with

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 33$
With her relative to the folemn engagement
on which fhe is about to enter; on thefe
occafions he commonly accompanies his
admonitions with finging a pious hymn,
which is adapted to the folemnity, The
bride alfo with her near relations go through
the ceremony ofbeing painted afr&fh; the
nature of which cuftom I fhall defcribe when
I fpeak of the harem.
During this procefs the bridegroom on
the other hand receives vifits from his male
friends in the morning, and in the evening
rides through the town accompanied by
them, fome playing on hautboys and drums,-
while others are employed in firing vollies
©f mufquetry. In all their feftivals the dif-
eharge of mufquetry indeed forms a princi
pal part of the entertainment. Contrary to*
the European mode, which particularly aims
a-t firing with exact nefs, the Moors difcharge
their pieces as irregularly as poffible, fo as
to have a continual fucceffion of reports-for
a few minutes.
On the day of marriage, the bride in the
evening is put into a fquare or octagonal;
cage, about twelve feet in circumference,
which is coveted with fine white linen, and
5 fometimes

536 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
fometimes with gauzes and filks of various
colours. In this, vehicle, which is placed on
a mule, fhe is paraded round the ftreets, ac
companied by her relations and friends, fome
carrying lighted torches, others playing on
hautboys, and a third party again firing vol-;
lies of mufquetry.
In this manner fhe is carried to the houfe
of her intended hufband, who returns about
-the fame time from performing fimilar cere
monies. On her arrival fhe is placed in an
apartment by herfelf, and her hufband is in
troduced to her alone for the firft1 time* who
finds her fitting on a filk or velvet eufhion,
fuppoiing her to be a perfon of confequence,
with a fmall table before her, upon which
are two wax candles lighted; Her fhift> or
more properly fhirt, hangs down like a train
behind her, and over it is a filk or velvet
robe with clofe fleeves, which at the breaft
and wrifts is embroidered with gold ; this
drefs reaches fomething lower than the calf
of the leg. Round her head is tied a black
filk fcarf, which hangs behind as low as the
ground. Thus attired, the bride fits with
her hands over her eyes, when her hufband
appears and receives her as his wife, without any

A Tour to Morocco, We. yj
any further ceremony * : for the agreement
made by the friends before the Cadi is the
only fpecific contract which is thought ne
ceffary. If the hufband fhould have any reafon to
fufpedl that his wife has not been ftrictly
virtuous, he is at liberty to divorce her and
take another. For fome time after marriage
the family and friends are engaged in much
feafting and a variety of amufements, which
laft a longer or fhorter time, according to
the circumftances of the parties. It is ufu
ally cuftomary for the man to remain at home
eight days and the woman eight months
after they are firft married; and the woman
is at liberty to divorce herfelf from her huf
band if fhe can prove that he does not pro
vide her with a proper fubfiftence. If he
curfes her, the law obliges him to pay her^
for the firft offence, eight ducats; for the
fecond, a rich drefs of ftill greater value; and
the third time fhe may leave him entirely.
He is then at liberty to marry again in two
months;
* Interim duse miriiftra negra exfpedlant faris » ut notitiam
habeant confummadonis; quod cum pro certo cognoverint,
cantus. buccinarvmv - & bombardarnm emiflio faftum an-'
nunciajit.
Z At

338 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
At the birth of a child, it is cuftomary
for the parents to grieve eight days, at the
expiration of which they facrifice a goat or a
fheep, and invite their friends and acquaint
ance to partake of the feaft. Women fuffer
but little inconvenience in this country from
child-bearing ; they are frequently up the
next day, and go through all the duties of
the houfe with the infant upon their backs.
They do not adopt the method of teaching
their children to walk which is cuftomary
in Europe, but when they are twelve months
old they put them on the floor, where from
firft crawling they naturally in a. fhort time
acquire the habit of walking, and as foon as
they can be made in the leaft degree ufeful,
they are put to the various kinds of labour
adapted to their age and ftrength. Others,
whofe parents are in better circumftances,
are, as I before obferved, fometimes fent to
fchool; and thofe who are intended for the
church ufually continue their fludies till they
have nearly learnt the Koran by rote. In
that cafe they are enrolled among the talbs.
or learned men of the law ; and upon leaving
fchool are paraded round the ftreets on a
horfe, accompanied by mufic and a large
concourfe

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 339
concourfe of people. The proceffion is con
ducted in the following manner. Upon the
day appointed, one of the moft fhewy horfes
in the place is procured for the youth to ride
on, who if he is a perfon of confequence, is
dreft in all the gaiety which filks and bro
cades can afford, wearing a turban richly or
namented with gold and jewels, and inter
fperfed with flowers. Thus arrayed he
mounts his horfe, which alfo is not without
its decorations, carrying in his hand his
prayers pafted on a board, on which he looks
with ftedfaft attention; and he proceeds
with all the fedatenefs and compofed gravity
of old age to the different places appointed
for the purpofe, accompanied by mufic, and
all his fchoolfellows on horfeback drafted
according to their circumftances; At laft
they meet at the houfe of the head boy of
the fchool, where they are treated with a
collection of fweetmeats. This cuftom,
which is evidently adopted' with a view of
promoting an emulation in their youths, is
one of the very few good inftitutions which
are obfervable among thefe people.
In celebrating the rite of circumcifion, the
child is drefled very fumptuoufly, and carried
Z 2 on

3+0 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
on a mule, or, if the parents are in poor cir
cumftances, on an afs, accompanied with
flags flying and muficians playing on hautboys
and beating drums. In this manner they
proceed to the mofque, where the cere
mony is performed.
When any perfon dies, a certain number
of women are hired for the purpofe of la
mentation (for the men are feldom obferved
to weep for the lofs of a friend) in the per
formance of which nothing can be more gra
ting to the ear, or more unpleafant, than their
frightful moans or rather howlings: at the
fame time thefe mercenary mourners beat
their heads and breafts, and tear their cheeks
with their nails. The bodies are ufually
buried a few hours after death. Previous to
interment the corpfe is wafhed very clean,
and fewed up in a fhroud compofed of feven
pieces of fine linen united together, with the
right hand under the head, which is pointed
towards Mecca ; it is carried on a bier fup-
ported upon men's fhoulders to the burying-
place, which is always, with great propriety,
on the outfide of the town, for they never
bury their dead in the mofques or within the
bounds of an inhabited place. The bier is
accompanied

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 341
accompanied by numbers of people, two a-
breaft, who walk very faft, calling upon
God and Mahomet, and finging hymns
adapted to the occafion. The grave is made
very wide at the bottom, and narrow at the
top, and the body is depofited without any
other ceremony than finging and praying
in the fame manner as on their way to the
grave. They have no tombs in this Country, but
long and plain ftones ; and it is frequently
cuftomary for the female friends of the de
parted to weep over tlieir graves for feveral
days after the funeral. The Moors will not
allow Chriftians or Jews to pafs over their
places of interment; as they have a fuper-
ftitious idea, which is perhaps more preva-.
lent among the lower clafs of people, than
thofe who are better informed, that the dead
fuffer pain from having their graves trodden
upon by infidels; and I recollect when at
Tangier, I received a very fevere rebuke
from a Moor, for accidentally having paffed
through one of their burying grounds.
When a woman lofes her hufband fhe
mourns four months and eight days, during
which period fhe is to wear no filver or
Z 3 gold;

342 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We,
gold; and if fhe happens to be pregnant,
fhe is to mourn till fhe is brought to bed,
For the above time the relations of her
late hufband are obliged to fupport her,
I could not learn that any mourning was
due from the hufband for the lofs of his
wife ; but it is cuftomary, particularly among
the great people, for a fon to mourn for
his father by not fhaving his head or any
part of his beard, and by not cutting his
nails for a certain period.
When a Jew or a Chriftian is converted
to the Mahometan faith, he is immediately
dreffed in a Moorifh habit, and paraded
round the ftreets on horfeback, accom
panied with mufic and a great concourfe
of people. He then chufes himfelf a
Moorifh name, and fixes on a perfon who
adopts him as a child, and is ever afterwards
called his father. This adoption, however,
is only nominal, for he is by no means
bound to fupport him. The new convert is
not allowed to marry any other woman
than a Negro, or the daughter of a rene-
gado ; and his defcendants are not con-
fidered as genuine Moors till the fourth
generation. The

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. .343
The renegadoes in the empire of Mo
rocco are principally Spaniards, though
there are fome few of other nations in the
country, who have deferted from Ceuta or
Spain, to avoid the hand of juftice for fome
capital crime or mifdemeanor — commonly,
indeed, mu'rder. I met with many of thefe
people at Morocco, who frankly acknow
ledged to me that murder had been the
caufe of their defertion. Though the em
peror may for various reafbns find it con
venient to countenance renegadoes, yet the
Moors in general fo thoroughly deteft them,
that they cannot be induced upon any terms
to allow them to form a part of their fo
ciety. I cannot better conclude this fection than
by fubmitting to the reader the following
account of the caravans to Mecca and
Guinea, which I received^ from a gentle
man refident in Barbary, on whofe veracity
I could place the utmoft confidence.
Seven months before the feaft Aid de
Cabier, or the commemoration of the
birth of Mahomet, pilgrims from every
quarter affemble at Fez, in order to join
the carayan which at that feafon proceeds
Z 4 for

344 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
for Mecca. They are compofed of three
piaffes of people.-^-Firft, The mountaineers,
named Brebes: Secondly, The Moorifh
merchants : and, Thirdly, Perfons in pub
lic employments, or who are engaged about
the court of the emperor. Thus religion
and intereft confpire to draw together a
large and motley groupe, and to induce them
to undertake a journey which is as fatiguing
and dangerous as it is expenfive.
The firft clafs are not required to afk
permiffion to join the caravan. The fecond
are obliged to prefent themfelves to their
refpedlive governors, as well to avoid the
inconveniences of debts on their own ac
count, as on that of their families, who
might be fubjedt to be molefted by credi
tors during their abfence. If a merchant
has the leaft connexion with the court, it
is expected that he alfo prefent himfelf to
the emperor, who, as he feels difpofed,
grants or refufes him permiffion to enter
upon the journey. Thofe ofthe third clafs
muft have an exprefs permiffion from the
emperor, who never allows any to go whofe
circumftances will not fufficiently enable them

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 345
them to defray the expences of the pilgri
mage. As there are two modes of performing
this pilgrimage, by fea and by land, thofe
who prefer the former are fubjedled to an
examination by the governor of the port
whence they embark, to fee that they pay
tbe freight pf the veflel, and to inform him
felf whether they have fufficient means to
go and return from this facred object of
Mahometan devotion, without being under
the neceffity of borrowing, or being fuf-
pected of ufing any bafe and difhonourable
means of obtaining a fubfiftence. Thofe
who proceed by land are liable to be ex
amined alfo, but not fo rigoroufly as the
pthers, the Shaik of the caravan having the
power to punifh thofe who are guilty of
any irregularities.
The place whence the caravan fets out
by land, is from Teza, a town in the pro
vince of Tedla, fome diftance to the Eaft
ofthe city of Fez, the latter being the firft
place of rendezvous. At Fez, the moft
commercial city in the whole empire, and
abounding with provifions of every defcrip-
rion, each perfon furnifhes himfelf in the
beft

546 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
beft manner he is able, according to his
rank and circumftances, with a fufficient
fupply to laft till he reaches Tripoli or
Tunis at leaft.
This grand caravan is always accom
panied by many others, of which one goes
to Algiers, another to Tunis, and a third
to Grand Cairo, &c. Thofe perfons
who go to Algiers and Tunis are not
under the neceffity of afking permiffion, as
they are perfons who are accuftomed to
carry on a trade with thofe two places ;
whence they return with a quantity of their
refpedlive manufactures. The caps of Tu
nis are of great ufe in the empire of Mo
rocco, and their filks alfo fell at a very
good price, though upon the whole thofe
of Algiers are preferable for the girdles
ufed by the Moors, curtains, women's drefs,
and furniture for beds and rooms. The
manufactures indeed of both Algiers and
Tunis are brought to a greater perfection
than thofe of Morocco. The merchants
who go upon thefe expeditions carry with
them ready money, haicks, and flippers,
which are the manufactures of Morocco,
and difpofe of the two laft articles to the
Arabs

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 347
Arabs and inhabitants of the towns in the
neighbourhood of Algiers and Tunis,
who, though they do not wear the haick
as a part of their drefs, yet make ufe of
them for a variety of other purpofes.
Some time within the firft fifteen days
ofthe month Jumeth Tenii, every pro
per preparation being previoufly made, the
grand caravan fets off from Teza in the
following order : — After having invoked the
true and fole God, and his prophet Maho
met, to give every benediction to this facred
journey, they all meet near the tent of the
chief conductor, who is named in Arabic
S check Rebeck, and commence their
devotions to the found of clarinets, tam
bours, &c. The unloaded camels and mules
are then firft put in motion, attended by
the cooks, watermen, &c. Next to this
party follow thofe who travel on foot, either
from devotion or neceffity ; to thefe is en-
trufted the care of the loaded mules and
camels. And the rear is brought up by
thofe who are mounted either on horfes or
mules. The caravan is put in motion at
fun-rife, flops at twelve o'clock at noon to
dine, and about four in the afternoon the
people

348 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
people encamp in the fame manner as they
did at Teza.
The courfe which they take is through
the interior parts of the country, leaving
Tremec^n, Algiers, and Tunis to their
left. Some of them, indeed, make excurfions
to the two latter places, and afterwards
join the caravan. By thefe means they are
enabled both to obtain a frefh fupply of
provifions for themfelves and beafts, and to
fell to the Arabs, haicks, flippers, and old
caps, for which they ufually receive a very
good price; and the profits enable them
frequently to make advantageous purchafes
at Mecca, Alexandria, and Cairo.
Upon their arrival, after a journey of
two months and a half, at that part of the
fea-coaft where the tower of Salines is
fituated, and which is about half a day's
ride from the city of Tripoli, they reft
themfelves ten days. At this place all the
pilgrims fupply themfelves with forty or
fifty days provifions, which is generally
fufficient to fupport them to Alexandria-
or Grand Cairo; and on their return
they purchafe in the neighbourhood of
Tunis and Tripoli a large fupply of
mules,

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 349
mules, frequently giving only twenty-five
hard dollars for what they afterwards fell
in Morocco for eighty or an hundred.
From the tower of Salines they con
tinue their route as far as Alexandria
and Grand Cairo, where they furnifh
themfelves, in the fame manner as at Tri
poli, with fufficient provifions for the re
mainder of the journey, which requires al
together near feven months to accomplifh.
To thofe who undertake this journey for,.
the purpofe of trade, it generally anfwers
extremely well. By purchafing goods at
one place, and felling them at another, they
contrive to make upon each fale a profit of
ten per cent.
The Arabs from Fez as far as Alexan
dria and Grand Cairo, though a rude
clafs of people, are very warmly attached
to their religion, and on that account give
the pilgrims a friendly reception, furnifhing
them with barley, butter, eggs, mutton,
beef, &c. From that place, however, to
Mecca the route is not fo eafy, as the
Arabs, inftead of the benefactors, frequently
become the plunderers of thefe holy tra
vellers,,

3Jo A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
vellers. On thefe occafions they fpare
nothing, and leave them not fo much as the
neceffaries of life ; particularly if they refufe
the contributions which they ufually de
mand for permitting the caravan to pafs
peaceably through the country. Within
the laft feven or eight years this paffage is
become more dangerous than ever. The
banditti now affemble 'in very confiderable
bodies in thefe deferts, and at certain paffes
the travellers may be aflailed with great ad-
Vantage. In pafling the ifthmus of Suez,
for inftance, above Alexandria, the caravan
may be defeated by an hundred men. Thefe
robbers, therefore, generally endeavour to
poll themfelves in fuch a manner as to
attack it in this place.
Thofe people who carry on a petty trade
endeavour to convert their little flock into
ready money upon their arrival at Mecca;
where, with the remainder of the caravan,
and other Mahometan pilgrims, they com
memorate by a feaft the nativity of the
great prophet Mahomet, when every per
fon is obliged to facrifice at leaft one fheep.
It is computed that on this day, which is
x the

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 351
the tenth of the moon Dalaja, above
two millions of fheep are flaughtered at
Mecca. After the performance of this folemn rite
the majority of the travellers employ them
felves in laying out their money to the beft
advantage. Some purchafe muflins, Levant
filks, &c. ; others effence of rofes, amber,
mufic, Perfian filks, 6cc.; while another part
of them fave their money to lay it out at
Grand Cairo, where they purchafe a
good flock of raw filk, cottons, and manu
factured filks of different kinds. In this
city, indeed, every article may be had at
nearly the fame price as at Mecca. On
the whole, we may affert, at a moderate
computation, that the value of the articles
contained in one of thefe caravans, joined
v/ith the ready money, amounts to two
millions of hard dollars.
Thofe perfons who proceed by fea join
the caravan after difembarking at Alex
andria, and paying the freight of the
veffel in which they fet fail. On their re
turn alfo confiderable numbers embark at
Alexandria, and land at Tetuan qr
Tangier, whence they depart for their
refpedtive

352 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
refpedlive homes, and fell the commodities
they bring with them for perhaps a third
more than their original price. Others
continue their journey by land, and add to
the riches brought from the Levant the
merchandizes of Tunis and Algiers,
which are held in great efteem throughout
the empire of Morocco. By thefe means
they double the capital they provided them
felves with at firft fetting out.
It would be no very difficult matter for .
a Chriftian to join one of thefe caravans,
provided he obtained the recommendation
and exprefs permiffion of his Moorifh ma
jefty, or the shaik of the caravan, who
would take him under his protection. This
obftacle would be ftill further removed, if
the Chriftian would confent to wear the
Turkifh habit, or drefs himfelf in the man
ner they are obliged to adopt at Grand
Cairo. By thefe means he would obviate
every inconvenience to which the European
drefs fubjedts a traveller, both with refpedt
to the wild Arabs, and to the weak and
illiberal people of the caravan. As the
caravan, however, does not go far into the
interior parts of the country, the object of
difcovery

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc- 3?3
difcovery would hardly be fufficient to
counterbalance the fatigues and dangers of
the expedition.
There arc ho caravans which go directly
into the interior parts of the country. It
would, in fact, be as dangerous for a Ma
hometan as for a Chriftian to penetrate an
hundred leagues beyond the known limits
of the empire of Morocco, as the inhabi
tants of thefe parts are favage, avaricious,
and capable of committing any crime for
a very trifling emolument. A fatal proof
ofthe cruelty of thefe Arabs occurred in
the year 1786, when forty pilgrims, on
their return from Mecca, were maffacred.
Thefe people demanded hofpitality from the
mountaineers of Zamor, near Meg>uinez,
for only one night; but as they brought
fome valuable goods with them, it is fup
pofed that it was owing to that circum
ftance that they were all put to death.
The country beyond the mountains of
Atlas, about fix days journey to the Eaft
of Morocco, is not even known, though
it is probable it might be penetrated with
fafety, provided the fame means were ufed
A a as

3.54 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
as are employed by the caravans which go
to the South; that is, a fmall proportion
of force, and a fmall proportion of gene
rofity. There is no particular caravan fo con
fiderable for the South as that which goes
to Mecca. As thefe indeed are intended
merely for the purpofes of commerce, they
feldom confift of more than one hundred
And fifty, or perhaps two, or at moft three
hundred perfons, including the muleteers,
camel-drivers, and other fervants. Some
of thefe caravans fet out from Morocco,
while others go from Tarudant, Fez,
and Tetuan. The firft pafs by way of
Domnet, while the others meet at Ta-
filet, and thence purfue their journey
towards the defert. Thefe caravans go no
further than Tom but, where there are
fome merchants of Morocco eftablifhed
for the purpofe of carrying on a trade with
the inland parts of Guinea, where they
traffick-for flaves, ivory, gold duft, 6cc.
The merchandizes which the caravans carry
from Morocco, Tarudant, &c. confift of

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc #5
of haicks and blue cloths, for which they
find a good fale throughout the country of
the Mohafres and at Thouat.
The city of Thouat is in the interior
parts of the country, about thirty days
journey from Tafilet. From Thouat
the caravans proceed directly to Tombut.
There is much greater danger in pafling the
two deferts between Tafilet and Thou
at, than between the latter place and
Tombut. As the Arabs ofthe deferts are
much addicted to rapine, the caravans are
obliged to make them trifling prefents, to
enable them to travel without being mo-
lefted. The other Arabs, who purchafe
merchandize, fuch as blue cloths, fmall
daggers, looking-glafies, &c. pay generally
in return oftrich-feathers ; and this traffick
is attended with very tolerable profits.
The articles which the caravans carry
immediately to Tombut, are tobacco and
fait. It is neceffary to pay attention to
what camels may be wanted for the pur
pofes of carrying water through the deferts,
as in fome parts they travel four, and in
others nine days without meeting with a
drop of water. It is in a great meafure on
A a a this

336 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
this account that the camel becomes fo
ufeful an animal in hot climates. Their
ftomachs, it is well known, are fo con
ftrudted as to allow them to pafs many days
without food or drink. In the inner coats
of their ftomachs there are a number of
little cells, in which they retain a large pro
portion of water for a length of time, nature
having provided them with a method of
regurgitating it when thirfty. From the
fize of the ftomach alfo it admits of a large
portion of food to be taken in at a time,
to which they have recourfe by rumination
when their appetite calls for a fupply of
nourifhment. Their owners, therefore, have
only to give them plenty of barley and
water at the entrance of the deferts, and
that proves fufficient to laft them till a
frefh fupply can be conveniently procured.
Thefe extraordinary animals are able to
carry a very great weight in proportion to
their fize, and to perform very long jour-
nies without much apparent fatigue. They
are ufed both for the purpofes of riding and
carrying burdens. Their fteps are very
long and flow, and they are tractable and
eafily managed. They are taught to kneel
6 down

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 357
down when they are loaded; and when ufed
for the faddle are entirely managed by a
fhort and thick flick, which both ferves
the purpofes of bridle and whip. It is not
uncommon in Barbary to fee three perfons,
with furniture in proportion, mounted upon
one camel.
Upon the arrival of the caravans at
Tombut, they exchange their tobacco and
fait for flaves, gold duft, and ivory, which
are brought thither from Guinea. Four
thoufand flaves are fuppofed to be annually
carried from Tombut, great part of whom
are fent to Mascar, Algiers, and Tu
nis. It but feldom happens that any eunuchs
are brought away, unlefs by a particular
commiffion from the emperor or fome of
the princes, no other perfon in the country
being permitted to keep them. It is in
deed extremely difficult to procure them at
all. The place whence they are ufually
brought is the kingdom ofBAMBARA. In
Muley Ishmael's reign the number of
eunuchs in the empire of Morocco was
fuppofed to amount to feven hundred; but
they are now fo reduced, that one hundred
Aa 3 is

3S? A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
is the utmoft that could be muftered in the
whole empire.
Thofe perfons who have been concerned
in the trade to Tombut for the laft twenty
years, compute the value of the merchan
dizes tranfported annually thither from the
empire of Morocco to amount to at leaft
a million of hard dollars; and the com
modities received in return, fuch as oftrich-
feathers, ivory, gold dull, amber, and Gui
nea flaves, to ten millions ; two thirds of
which are carried to Algiers, Tunis,
&c. The flayes are purchafed near Tom
but, at a very cheap rate, there having
been inftances of a fine Negro boy being
bought for fix pounds of fait.
As a proof that Chriftians may proceed
along the fhore by land from Guinea to
Morocco, two French men, in the year
178 1, came from Senegal to Morocco^
and brought intelligence of fome forts hav
ing been taken from the Englifh on that
river. It is, however, proper to remark,
that they were provided with efcorts from
one place to another. 8 CHAP.

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, W'c. 359

CHAP. XII.
Summons to appear before the Emperor. —
Admiffon into the Royal Harem.-— At
tendance on Lalla 'ZA/RA.-^IntroduBion
to Lalla Batoom, the chief Sultana.—
IntroduBion to Lalla Douyaw, the
favourite Wife of the Emperor — -her Hif-
tory. — Defcription of the Harem— its
Geconomy. — Concubines of the- Emperor^- —
Adventure and Altercation with one of thofe
Ladies. — Drefs of the Ladies in the Ha
rem. — Opinion of the Moors- concerning
the Female Sex. — Emperor's Children. — •
Drefs, Manners, and Situation of the Fe
male Sex in Barbary.
FROM the unfuccefsful efforts which
I had made for the purpofe of pro
curing my difpatches, I had begun to re
concile myfelf to the idea of remaining a
prifoner at Morocco, when, to my great
furprize, at the expiration of a month from
the time of the prince's departure, his
A a 4 Moorifli

36o A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
Moorifh majefty. fent to me in particular
hafte to repair to the palace.
Upon receiving this meffage my beft
hopes were excited. I naturally expected
an immediate emancipation, as it is neceffary
that every ftranger fhould fee the emperor
previous to his departure; and I flew to
the palace with all the alacrity which fuch
an expectation was certain to infpire. What
then was my aftonifhment, when, upon my
arrival at the palace, a meffenger brought
orders from the emperor, the purport of
which was, that I fhould immediately ex
amine one of his fultanas who was indif-
pofed, and in the afternoon return with
proper medicines, and at the fame time
report my opinion pn her cafe to his ma
jefty. It is difficult to fay whether difappoint-
ment or furprize were the predominant
emotion in my mind on receiving this
order. After the prejudices which from
his diflike to the Englifh, and his ignorance
of the effects of internal medicines, the
emperor was known to have entertained
againft me, and after having detained me at
Morocco for fuch a length of time, with no

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 36*
no apparent view but that of manifefting
his contempt of me as an Englifhman, it
appeared unaccountable that he fhould give
orders for my admiffion into the Harem,
where, in addition to the former objections,
there were alfo fome ftill ftronger in the
eyes of the Moors ; as the admiffion of
one of our fex into that facred depofitory
of female charms was almoft unprecedented,
and I believe totally fo with refpedt to the
Harem of the- emperor.
Whatever might be the motives with
his imperial majefty for the violation of"
Moorifh decorum in this inftance, I did not
conceive that I had much reafon fo rejoice
at the event. I had already experienced
too much ingratitude from the prince, as
well as tco much ungenerous treatment
from the emperor, to encourage me to
undertake any future engagement of the
kind in this country; and the difficulties
and prejudices which from experience I
knew I had to encounter, when employed
in my profeffional line by the Moors, united
to the uncertainty of removing the lady's
complaint, rendered it altogether not very
fafe to adminifter my advice under fuch
difadvantageous-

362 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
difadvantageous circumftances ; and even
that curiofity which would naturally be
excited in moft perfons on fuch an occafion,
was not fufficient to reconcile me to this
new employment.
Unfortunately in this dilemma I had very-
little time allowed me to determine, fince
the meffenger was waiting to conduct me
to the gate ofthe Harem. My embarraff-
ment, however, continued only for a fhort
period ; for I foon recollected that it was in
vain to.oppofe the emperor's order. I there
fore deferred giving a decifive anfwer till
I had feen my patient, and made myfelf
fully acquainted with the nature of her com
plaint. The public and ufual entrance to the
Harem is through a very large arched
door-way, guarded on the outfide by ten
body guards, which leads to a lofty hall,
where the captain or alcaide, with a
guard of feventeen eunuchs, are polled. No
perfon is admitted into this hall, but thofe
who are known to have bufinefs in the
Harem. The emperor's order being delivered on
the oatiide of the door to the alcaide, I

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 3*3
Was immediately, with my interpreter^ con
ducted into the Harem, by one of the
negro eunuchs. Upon entering1 the court
into which the women's apartments; open,
I difcoVered a motley groupe of concubines',
domeftics, and negro flaves, who were va
rioufly employed. Tliofo of the firft defcrip
tion had formed themfelves into circles,
feated on the ground in the open Court, and
were apparently engaged in converfation. —
The domeftics and flaves were partly em
ployed in needle -work, and partly in pre
paring their cuscosoo. My appearance in
the court, however, foon attracted their at
tention, and a confiderable dumber of them;
upon obferving me, unacquainted with the
means by which I had been adriutted into
the Harem, retreated with the utmoft pre
cipitancy into their apartments ; while others
more courageous approached, and enquired
of my black attendant who I was, and by
whole orders he had brought me thither.
The moment it was known that I was
ofthe medical profeffion, parties of them*
were detached to inform thofe who had fled
that" I Was fent in by order of the emperor,
Jb attend Lalla Zara, my intended pa
tient's

364. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
tient's name, and requefting of them to
come back and look at the Chriftian. Se-
ranio Tibib ! Chriftian Dodlor ! refounded
from one end ofthe Harem to the other;
and in the courfe ofa few minutes J was fo
compleatly furrounded by women and chil
dren, that I was unable to move a fingle
ftep. Every one of them appeared folicitous to
find out fome complaint on which fhe might
confult me, and thofe who had not ingenuity
enough to invent one, obliged me to feel
their pulfe ; and were highly difpleafed if I
did not evince my excellence in my profef
fion by the difcovery of fome ailment or
other. All of them feemed fo urgent to be
attended to at the fame time, that while I was
feeling the pulfe of one, others were behind,
pulling my coat and intreating me to exa
mine their complaints, while a third party
were "upbraiding me for not paying them the
fame attention. Their ideas of delicacy did
not at all correfpond with thofe of our Eu
ropean ladie6, for they exhibited the beauties
of their limbs and form with a degree of
freedom that in any other country would have

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 365
have been thought indecent ; and their con
verfation was equally unrefirained.
This apparent laxity of condtidt in the
Moorifh ladies does not proceed from a de
pravity in principle. As the female fex in
this country are not entrufted with the
guardianfhip of their own honour, there is no
virtue in referve. A depraved education
even ferves to corrupt inftead of to reftrain
them. They are not regarded as rational or
moral agents; they are only confidered as
beings created entirely to be fubfervient to
the pleafure of man. To excite the paflions,
and to do and fay every thing which may in
flame a licentious imagination, become
therefore neceffary accomplifhments in the
female fex, and their manners and condudt
naturally affume a eaft totally different from
thofe of women in a more refined and more
liberal ftate of fociety. In thofe inftances to
which I refer, they were not confcious of
trefpaffing the limits of decency; and in
others they manifefted a fingular attention to
what they conceived to be decorum. When
I requefted to fee the tongues of fome pa
tients who complained of feverifh fymptoms,
they refufed to comply, confidering it as
.yrpnfiftpint

in-cofififtent with their mpdefty apd virtue }
fome of them indeed laughed at the Angu
larity of the requeft, and attributed it either
to an impertinent curiofity, or an inclination
to imppfe on their u derftandings.
As the number of my patients continued
to increafe rather than to diminifh, there ap
peared but little profpedt of an introduction
to the fultana Lalla Zara, whom I was
firft diredled to attend, in any reafonable time.
The eunuch, however, wearied out with
waiting, exerted all the vigour of authority
which his natural effeminacy would admit
.of in obliging them to difperfe, and which
was fo far effectual at leaft as to allow me
room to pafs, though this female croud ftill
followed me till I had nearly reached the
lady's apartrnent.
From the firft court into which I had been
introduced I paffed through two or three fimi
lar, till I at length arrived .at the chamber
of my intended patient. I, was here detained
a little time in the court, till my patient and
her apartment were ready to receive me. — •
Upon my entrance I found the lady fitting
crofs-legged on a mattrefs placed upon the
floor, and covered with fine linen, with
twelve

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 367
twelve white and negro attendants, feated
pn tfie floor alfo, in different parts of the
chamber. A round cufhion was placed for
me next to the lady, on which I was defired
to be feated. I fhould have remarked, that,
contrary to my expectations, I found that
none of the emperor's women difguifed their
faces in the manner which I had experienced
in the prince's Harem, but I faw them all
with the fame familiarity as if I had
been introduced into the houfe of an Eu
ropean. Lalla Zara *, who was of Moorifli
parents, was about eight years ago remark
able for her b:au:y and acccmplifhments,;
on which account fhe was then in every
refpedt the favourite wife of the emperor.
So dangerous a preeminence could not be
enjoyed, without exciting the jealoufy of
thofe females whofe charms were lefs con-
fpicuous ; and who, befides the mortification
of having a lefs fhare of beauty, experienced
alfo the difgrace of being deferted by their
lord.
* Lalla lignifies lady or. miilrefs, but "3 only applied in
this country to the fuit an as.
Determined

Determined to effect-' her ruin, they con
trived to mix fome poifon (moft probably
arfenic) in her food, and condudted the de-
teftable plot with fo much art and addrefs,
that it was not perceived till the deleterious
drug had began its baneful operations. She
was feized with moft violent fpafms, and a
continual vomiting ; and had fhe not been pof-
fefled of an uncommonly ftrong conftitution,
fhe muft immediately have fallen a victim
to the machinations of her rivals. After a
fevere ftruggle, however, between life and
death, the effects of the poifon in fome de
gree abated ; but it left the unhappy lady in
a ftate of dreadful debility and irritation, and
particularly in the ftomach, from which it
Was not perhaps in the power of medicine to
extricate her. Her beiuty too, the fatal
caufe of her misfortune, was compleatly
deftroyed, and her enemies, though difap
pointed in their aim of deftroying her life,
yet enjoyed the malignant triumph of feeing
thofe charms which had excited their unea-
finefs reduced below the ftandard of ordinary
women. When I faw her, fhe had fuch a weak-
fs of digeftion, that every fpecies of food
which

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 369
which fhe took, after remaining a few hours
on her ftomach, was returned perfectly crude
and undigefted. As fhe did not receive proper
nourifhment, her body had wafted away to a
fhadow, and her frame was in fo Weak a ftate,
as not to allow her to walk without affif-
tance. Her complexion was entirely altered*
Her fkin, from being naturally clear and fair,
as I was informed, was changed to a fickly
brown, which, joined to a ruined fet of
teeth, and a ghaftly countenance, had effaced
every trace of that beauty, which fhe before
might have poffeffed. Upon my firft enter
ing her apartment, though from my profef
fion accuftomed to behold objedts of diftrefs
and mifery, yetl was fo forcibly ftruck with
her unhappy fituation and wretched appear
ance, that I was obliged to exert all the forti
tude of which I was mafter, to avoid the dif-
covery of my feelings.
Lalla Zara was at this time about fix-
and-thirty years of age, and though in fo
weak a ftate, had two beautiful young chil
dren ; the firft was in its fixth year, and the
youngeft, which was then under the care ofa
wet-nurfe,was very little more than a twelve
month old,' I was quite aftonifhed to ob-
B b ferve

370 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
ferve fuch ftrong and apparently healthy
children, the offspring of a mother whofe
conftitution was fo dreadfully impaired. It
was certainly, however, a very fortunate cir
cumftance for Lalla Zara that fhe had
thefe children ; fince by the Mahometan
law a man cannot divorce his wife provided
flie bear him children ; fo that though the
emperor took very little notice of this poor
lady, yet he was, for the above reafon,
obliged to maintain, both herfelf and her
offspring. %.
From the wretched fituation in which I
have defcribed this unfortunate female, it is
eafy to conceive that her fpirits muft revive
at the moft diftant profpedt of procuring re
lief in her difagreeable complaint. Such, in
deed, was the cafe. She received me with
all that fatisfaction which hope, united with
fome degree of confidence, moft naturally in
fpire s.
Under thefe circumftances the predica
ment in which I felt myfelf was, I muft
confefs, moft truly embarraffing. It was
one of thofe unpleafant fituations, in which
duty and intereft are compleatly in oppofi-
tion to each other, or rather when the fym-
pathetic

A TOUR TO MOROC CO, Wc. 371
pathetic feelings ftand oppofed to perfonal
fafety. Humanity pointed out to me that it
was my duty to relieve her if poffible ; on the
other hand, felf-prefervation no lefs ftrongly
dictated, that it was abfolutely neceffary to
my fafety and happinefs to embrace the firft
opportunity of leaving a country where I ex-
ifted in the moft critical and moft difagreea-
ble fituation. Both thefe fen timents for fome
time preffed equally on my mind, and left me
at a lofs how to determine. I at length,
however, fixed on a middle plan of conduct,
which appeared likely to effect the fafety of
the lady, without endangering my own. This
was, to give a proper courfe of medicines a
fair trial for a fortnight ; and then, if the
leaft profpedt of amendment fhould appear
in confequence of them, I could leave her
more , with filch directions as might ena
ble her to ufe them without medical atten
dance. This plan I conceived it moft prudent not
to communicate immediately to my patient i
I therefore, without affording her any very
flattering hopes of a cure, affured her, that I
would ufe every means with which I was
acquainted for the reftoration of her confti-
B b 2 tution.

37« A TOUR TO MOROCCO,^.
tution. Contrary to moft other Moorifh
females, I found Lalla Zara in every
refpedt affable and polite ; though deprived
of her health, fhe retained her natural viva
city, and with the ravages of her inveterate
malady fhe ftill remained a pleafing and an
interefting charadter.
I was upon the point of taking my leave
of Lalla Zara, when a female meflenger
appeared to requeft my attendance upon
Lalla Batoom, who, from the priority of
her marriage, is called the firft wife of the
emperor, and is more properly entitled to
the denomination of fultana than any of the
others. As the emperor had given directions for
my admiffion to Lalla Zara only, and as
I foon perceived that the eunuch regarded
me with the moft jealous eye, I muft con-
fefs that, however my curiofity might be ex-i
cited, yet when folicited to vifit the other
ladies, I could not help feeling fome appre-
henfions of the danger which I incurred
by tranfgreffing the emperor's order. On
the other hand, I reflected, that both the
eunuch and the women would be equally in
volved in the confequences of a difcovery ;
4 the

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 373
the firft for conducting me, and the others
for admitting me into their apartments ;
and therefore that it was as much their in-
tereft as mine to be cautious, as well in pre
venting the circumftance from reaching the
emperor's ears, as in not receiving me in
their apartments at a time when he was
likely to enter the Harem. All thefe ar
guments, united to the defire which I felt
to avail myfelf of fo favourable an opportu
nity of feeing a place where no European
had ever before been admitted, had fo much
weight, that my objections were fpeedily re
moved. I found Lalla Batoom to be a perfect
Moorifh beauty; fhe was moft immode
rately fat, about forty years of age, with
round and prominent cheeks, which were
painted a deep red, fmall black eyes, and a
vifage compleatly guiltlefs of expreffion.
She was fitting upon a mattrafs on the
floor, which, as ufual, was covered with
fine white linen, and fhe was furrounded
with a large party of concubines, whom I
was informed fhe had invited to be her
vifitors on the occafion. Her room bore
a much greater appearance of grandeur than
B b 3 that

374 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
that of Lalla Zara, and fhe was in
dulged with a whole fquare to herfelf.
As foon as I entered her apartment,
Lalla Batoom requested of me to be
feated clofe ^by her fide, and to feel her
pulfe. Her complaint was a flight cold,
of which an unconquerable defire of feeing
me had moft probably been the occafion.
As foon as I had feit her pulfe, and pro
nounced my opinion, I was employed in
going through 'the fame ceremony with all
the other ladies in the room, who defired
I would acquaint them with all their
complaints, without any further enquiries.
From the great experience which I had
acquired in this kind of practice at Taru
dant, and from the knowledge which I
had attained of their complaints, which in
general proceeded from too violent an attack
upon the coscosoo, I was enabled to make
no defpicable figure in this myfterious art,
and was very fuccefsful in my opinions.
From the fubjedt of their own health,
the converfation prefently changed to criti-
ciftns upon my drefs. There was not a
fingle part of it which was not examined,
and commented on with their ufual loqua city.

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 375
city. My interpreter was then afked if 1
was a married man, and if fo, whether I
had brought . my wife with me, with a
variety of equally important queftions. In
the midft of this converfation, tea was
introduced, though at eleven o'clock in the
morning. A fmall tea-board, with four
very fhort feet, fupplied the place of a
table, and held the tea equipage. The cups
were about the fize of large walnut-fhells,
of the very beft Indian china, and of which
a very confiderable number was drank.
After I had concluded my vifit to the
queen of the Harem, I was next con
ducted to Lalla Douyaw, the favourite
wife of the emperor, whom I found to
be what would be termed in Europe a
very fine and beautiful woman. She is a
native of Genoa, and was, with her mother,
fhipwrecked on the coaft of Barbary,
whence they became the emperor's cap
tives. At that period, though but eight
years of age, her perfonal charms were fo
very promising and attractive, that they
induced the emperor to order her to be
taken forcibly from her mother, and placed
fn his Harem, where, though at fo early
B b 4 a period

376 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wt,
a period of life, every means were in vain
employed to entice her to change her re
ligion, till at length the emperor threatened
to pull up every hair of her head by the
roots if fhe defifted any longer ; and fhe then
found herfelf obliged to fubmit to his incli
nations, After remaining fome time in the cha
radter of a concubine, the emperor married
her; and from her great beauty, addrefs,
and fuperior mental accomplifhments, fhe
foon gained his beft affections, which fhe
ever after poflefled. She had, indeed, fo
much influence over him, that though he
was naturally ofa very ftubborn difpofition,
fhe was never known to fail in any favour
fhe folicited, provided fhe perfevered in her
requeft. When I faw her fhe was about thirty
years of age ; in her perfon rather corpulent,
and her face was diftinguifhed by that ex-
preffive beauty which is almoft peculiar to
the Italian women. Her addrefs was pleaf-
ing, and her behaviour polite and attentive.
In the Harem, from her accomplifhments
in reading and writing well the Arabic
language,

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 377
language, fhe was confidered by the other
females as a fuperior being.
From the circumftance of being'f aken fo
young into the Harem, fhe had nearly
forgotten her native language, and could
only converfe fluently in Arabic, having
but a diftant recollection of the events
which firft brought her into her prefent
fituation. She, however, informed me that
we were brother and filler (a common
phrafe ufed by the Moors to exprefs the
affinity which Chriftians bear to each other
in a religious fenfe) and had difcemment
enough to obferve that fhe was among a
very uncouth and ignorant people, She add
ed, that her mother, whom I had afterwards
an opportunity of feeing at a Venetian mer
chant's houfe at Mamora, was ftill a
Chriftian, though fhe herfelf was no longer
fuch, and that fhe hoped I would vifit her
every time I came to the Harem.
Her complaint was a fcorbutic affection
of the gums, which threatened the lofs
of fome of her front teeth, This circum
ftance gave her the greateft uneafinefs, as
fhe was fearful it might disfigure her other
features, and by that means caufe an abate ment

378 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
ment in the affection of the emperor. On
this account fhe was extremely anxious to
have my advice, though when I was in
her apartment fhe always experienced the
ftrongeft apprehenfions left my attendance
on her fhould come to the emperor's know
ledge, which m.ght be attended with the
moft ferious confcquences to us both.
Lalla Zara, owing to her bad ftate
of health, and the confequent ruin of her
perfonal charms, had long been neglected
by the emperor, who, moft probably, ad-
miued of my attendance on her more for
the fake of exonerating himfelf from her
conftant importunities to fee me (for it Was
s confiderable time before fhe could gain
his confent) than from any great anxiety
en his part for her recovery. With refpedt
to a perfon of fuch a defcription, it was
perhaps a matter of - indifference to the
emperor by whom fhe was feen or known,
and therefore there was no ground for that
jealoufy to which the Moors in general arc
fo notorioufly addicted.
Lalla Douyaw was very differently
fituated. She was in the bloom of health
and beauty, with all thofe exterior accom-
8 plifhments

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 379
plifhments which were likely to excite the
moft ardent paflion ; and indeed the em
peror's attachment to her was unexampled.
Under thefe circumftances, when we con
fider with what caution the Moors in gene
ral endeavour to prevent any foreign inter-
courfe with their women, it could not be
fuppofed that the emperor would relifti the
idea of an European in particular beino-
admitted frequently, and almoft alone, to
this firft object of his deareft affections.
Lalla Douyaw, however, to prevent
the poffibility of detection, enjoined her
female Haves to be particularly affiduous to
inform her when there was the fmalleft
reafon for an alarm ; while, on the other
hand, fhe was continually making prefents
to the eunuch who attended me, cautionine
him at the fame time not to intimate to any
perfon out ofthe Harem that I had been
admitted into her apartment. She fo far
gained an afcendancy over him, that I have
frequently' remained with her for an hour
at a time, converfing upon European cui-
toms; and though fhe knew but little of
them, yet the fubjedt always feemed to af
ford her the higheft pleafure. As foon as
fhe

380 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
fhe thought it would be imprudent for me to
remain any longer, fhe requefted of me to
go, but with a promife to call upon her the
next time I vifited the Harem. Her ap-
prehenfion of a difcovery "was not confined
to the chance of an alarm from the emperor,
or from the perfidy of the eunuch ; it was
likewife extended to the jealoufy of the
other women in the Harem, who might
probably rejoice in an opportunity of effect
ing her ruin. It was, however, perhaps a
fortunate circumftance for us both, that by
moft of them admitting me into their apart
ments, it was equally their intereft to be
filent, fince a difcovery of the one would
inevitably lead to a detection of the others.
The fourth wife, who is daughter to an
Englifh renegado, and mother to the reign
ing emperor, being at Fez at the time when
I vifited the Harem, I had not an oppor
tunity of feeing.
When I waited on the emperor in con
fequence of my vifit to the Harem, I was
honoured with quite a private audience; for
he received me in the court clofe to his
houfe, where no perfon is permitted to be
prefent while the emperor is there, but a
few

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 381
few pages, and the people who immediately
belong to his carriage.
The fovereign was in an open four-
wheeled carriage, hung very low, of a fize
juft large enough to admit one perfon, and
drawn by the fons of four Spanifh renega
does. As foon as I was obferved by him,
his majefty ordered me with my inter
preter to approach, and carry him the me
dicines, defiring me to tafte them before
him, to convince him, I imagine, that, there
was nothing in them that was improper.
He then examined them with great atten
tion, and ordered me to explain to him what
they were, and in what manner they were
expected to act. When required to give
my opinion concerning the cafe of my
patient, I informed his majefty, that the
fultana's complaint was of fuch a nature as
to require a very long courfe of medicines,
but which I apprehended it would not be
neceffary to change ; that therefore I pro-
pofed to attend her > for a fortnight, and
then leave her a proper fupply, with fuch
diredtions as might enable her to take them
almoft with the fame advantage as if I was
prefent. I added, that I had received orders from

382 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
from the governor of Gibraltar to return
to the garrifon immediately, which if I
difobeyed I fhould certainly lofe a very good
employment ; and that, as I was convinced
of the emperor's kind intentions towards
me, by the promifes which he had made at
my firft audience, I was perfuaded his ma
jefty would not detain tne a day longer than
tlie period I mentioned. In reply, the
emperor faid, that he only wifhed me to
attend the fultana for about ten days, at the
expiration of which, ifthe medicines proved
likely to be ufeful, I fhould .then leave her
a proper fupply, and he would fend me
home (to ufe his expreffion) upon a fine
horfe. He then gave orders to his prime
minifter to pay me ten hard dollars as a
prefent; and commanded that free admit
tance fhould be granted me into the royal
Harem, whenever I thought it neceffary.
The Harem, as I before obferved, forms
a part of the palace or feraglio, without any
other immediate communication with it
than a private door, ufed only by the em
peror himfelf.
The apartments, which are all on the
ground floor, are fquare, very lofty, and four of

A TOUR 'TO MOROCCO, We. 383
of them enclofe a fpacious fquare court,
into which they open by means of large
folding-doors. Thefe, as in other Moorifh
houfes, which in general have no windows,
ferve the purpofe of admitting light into
the apartments. In the centre of thefe
courts, which are floored with blue and
white checquered tiling, is a fountain, fup-
plied by pipes from a large refervoir on the
outfide ofthe palace, which ferves for the
frequent ablutions recommended by the
Mahometan religion, as well as for other
purpofes. The whole of the Harem confifts of
about twelve of thefe fquare courts, com
municating with each other by narrow paf-
fages, which afford a free acccfs from one
part of it to another, and of which ail the
women are allowed to avail themfelves.
The apartments are ornamented exter
nally with beautiful carved wood, much
fuperior to any I have ever feen in Europe,
as well for the difficulty ofthe workman-
fhip, as for the tafte with which it is fmifh-
ed. In the infide moft of the rooms are
hung with rich damafk of various colours ;
the floors are covered with beautiful carpstc, and

384 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
and there are mattreffes difpofed at different
diftances for the purpofes of fitting and
fleeping. Befides thefe, the apartments are fur
nifhed at each extremity with an elegant
European mahogany bedftead, hung with
damafk, having on it feveral mattreffes
placed one over the other, which are covered
with various coloured filks ; but thefe beds
are merely placed there to ornament the
room. In all the apartments without ex
ception the ceiling is wood, carved and
painted. The principal ornaments in fome,
were large and valuable looking-glaffes,
hung on different parts of the walls. In
others, clocks and watches of different fizes,
in glafs cafes, were difpofed in the fame
manner. In fome of the apartments I
obferved a projection from the wall, which
reached about half way ,to the ceiling, on
which were placed feveral mattreffes over
each other, and each covered with filks of
different colours. Above and below this
projection the wall was hung with pieces
of fattin, velvet, and damafk, of different
colours, ornamented on each edge with a
broad

A tour to Morocco, Wc $2$
broad ftripe of black velvet, which was em
broidered in its centre With gold.
The whole Harem was under the ma
nagement of the principal fultana, Lalla
Batoom j that is in general ihe was dif
tinguifhed by the title of miftrefs of the
Harem, without having any particular
controul over the women. This lady and
Lalla Douyaw, the favourite, were in
dulged with a whole fquare to themfelves ;
but Lalla Zara, and all the concubines,
were only allowed each a fingle room.
Each female had a fepa-rate daily allow
ance from the emperor, proportioned to the
eftimation in which they were held by him.
Out of this they were expected to furnifh
themfelves with every article of which they
might be in want; the Harem is therefore
to be confidered as a place where fo many
diftindt lodgers have apartments without
paying for them, and the principal fultana
is the miftrefs of the whole.
The daily allowance which each woman
received from the emperor for her fubfiftence
was very trifling indeed. Lalla Douyaw,
the favourite fultana, had very little more
than half-a-crown Englifh per 'diem, and
C c the

386 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
the others lefs in proportion. It muft be al
lowed, that the emperor made them occa
fional prefents of money, drefs, and trinkets;
but this could never be fufficient to fupport
the number of domeftics and other expences
they muft incur. Their greateft dependance,
therefore, was on the prefents they received
from thofe Europeans and Moors who vi
fited the court, and who employed their
influence in obtaining fome particular favour
from the emperor. Nor had the monarch
fufficient delicacy to difcourage this mode
of negotiation. He well knew that if his
women had not obtained fupplies by other
means, they muft have had recourfe to his
purfe ; and as he had taken too good precau
tions to allow any mifchief to arife from this
cuftom, he was always well pleafed to have
bufinefs tranfacted through that channel.
Ambaffadors, confuls, and merchants indeed,
who were acquainted with the nature of the
court, perfectly knew that this was always
the moft fuccefsful mode that could be
adopted. As an illuftration of this affertion,
when. I was at Morocco, a ]ew, defirous
of obtaining a very advantageous favour from
the emperor, for which he had been a long
time

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 387-
time unfuccefsfully foliciting, fent to all the
principal ladies of the Harem prefents of
pearls to a very confiderable amount ; the
confequence was, that they all went in a
body to the emperor, and immediately ob
tained the wifhed- for conceffion.
The ladies feparately furnifh their own
rooms, hire their own domeftics, and, in
fact, do what they pleafe in the Harem,
but are not permitted to go out without an
exprefs order from the emperor, who very
feldom grants them that favour, except
when they are to be removed from one
palace to another. In that cafe a party
of foldiers is difpatched a little diftance
before them, to difperfe the male pafTengers
in particular, and to prevent the poflibility
of their being feen. This previous ftep
being taken, a piece of linen cloth is tied
round the lower part of the face, and
afterwards thefe miferable females cover
themfelves entirely with ffieir haicks,
and either mount mules, which they ride
like men, or, what is more ufual, are put
into a fquare carriage or litter, conftrudted
for this purpofe, which by its lattice- work
allows them to fee without being feen. In
Cc 2 this

38* A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wt.
this . manner they fet off under the charge
of a guard of black eunuchs. This journey,
and fometimes a walk within the bounds
of the palace, with which they are, how
ever, feldom indulged, is the only exercife
they are permitted to take.
The emperor's Harem confifted of be
tween fixty and a hundred females, befides
their domeftics and flaves, which were very
numerous. The four wives which I have
already noted are by no means to be confi-
dered as the firft fet of which the emperor
was poffeffed, fince fome died, and others
were repudiated*. So that it is a difficult
matter to determine what was the precife
number of Sidi Mahomet's wives.
Many of the concubines were Moorifh.
women, who had been prefented to the em
peror, as the Moors confider it an honour to
have their daughters in the Har em ; feveral
were European flaves, who had been either
made captives or purchafed by the emperor,
and fome were Negroes.
* The Mahometan law allows a man to divorce his wife,
provided fhe does not produce him any children, and he
returns her the portion, which was agreed upon when the
marriage firft took place.
In

A TOUR TO M,OROCCO, We. 389
In this groupe the Europeans, or their
defcendants, had by far the greateft claim to
the character of handfome. There was one
in particular, who was a native of Spain,
and taken into the Harem at about the
fame age as Lalla Douyaw, who was
indeed a perfect beauty. Nor was ;this
lady quite fingular in that refpedt, for
many others were almoft equally hand
fome. The Moorifh women have in general an
inexpreffive countenance, and a ruftfc fim-
plicity of manners. Their perfons are below
the middle ftature, of a remarkably fat and
fquare make, with very large hands and
feet. Their complexions are either a clear
brown, or, what is more ufual, of a fallow
call. Their faces are round, and their eyes
in general black; the nofe and mouth very
fmall, and the latter is ufually accompanied
with a good fet of teeth.
Among my patients in the Harem, was
one of the Moorifh concubines, who with a
handfome fet of features had united an in
tolerable fhare of pride and affectation, the
effedts of which 1 experienced in the moft
difgufting degree. I was defired tp adminif-
C c 3 ter

390 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
ter to her a remedy for a flight complaint of
the ftomach, with which fhe had been af
fedled for a few days. The medicine was to
be of fo gentle a nature as not to create the
flighteft degree ot pain, or any inconvenience
whutever. Determined that fhe fhould have
no reafon to complain on that account, I pre
pared her a powder, which, had fhe given it
to a new-born infant, would have proved as
inoft'enfive as to herfelf.
The lady, however, ftill apprehenfive of
its bad effects, obliged her younger fifter,
who was likewife a concubine in the Ha
rem, to take it by way of trial; and then,
if it agreed, it was her intention to have had
another dofe for herfelf. Unfor unately for
'me, the young lady, at the idea of being com
pelled to take a medicine of which fhe was
not in want, foon after lhe hadfwallowed it
became very fick, which fo alarmed her filler,
that ihe immediately fent for me, and up
braided me in thefevereft language, for fend
ing a medicine which had nearly deftroyed
the young lady, who had been in the moft
violent agonies the whole day ; adding, that
had fhe not been poflL-ffed ofa very ftrong
conftitution, fhe muft inevitably have pe-
rifhed.

A TOU£ TO MOROCCO, Wc. 391
rifhed. She tauntingly obferved, that fhe had
formed a better opinion of the Chriftians
than fhe now found they deferved ; and afked
me imperioufly, whether I was a proper
perfon to undertake the cure of the fultana ?
As it was impoffible that I could be pleafed
with thefe ignorant andunmerited reproaches,
and as I was well aware that fince I
had no directions to attend any perfon but
Lalla Zara, it was entirely a matter of
favour in me to comply at all with her re
queft, I embraced the opportunity of at once
filencing her ill-timed loquacity, and effec
tually putting a flop to fimilar impertinence
from any other quarter. I explained to -her,
in the firft place, that fo far from the medi
cines having the tendency of which fhe ac
cufed them, that they in reality were of
much too mild a nature for a perfon of her
conftitution. I added, that fince fhe enter
tained fuch fufpicions of them from the firft,
how could fhe be fo deftitute of affection and
feeling as to compel her lifter to take what
fhe would not venture upon herfelf, without
regard to the difference of her age, or to the
ftate of the health ? That her ungrateful be
haviour would operate as a difcouragemsnt
C c 4 to

393 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
to me, and would perhaps prevent my af
fording affiftance to many of the other ladies,
whofe complaints might require much more
attention than hers did; and that in future
fhe could not expect to receive from me* if
it fhould even be neceffary, the fm.alleft af
fiftance. She now began to relent, and ac
knowledged fhe had been rather too warm,,
adding many apologies, and concluded with
wifhing me a happy return to my country
and friends.
I could adduce many other anecdotes to
illuftrate the ignorance and pride pf thefe
unfortunate women ; but this I think will
be fufficiently convincing to anfwer the pur
pofe. It may not be improper tp add, that
this little altercation proyed afterwards of
great fervice tp me in the Hareme, by con
vincing the ignorant part of it that \ paid
very little attention to their caprice.
Obferving that the eunuchs kept a yery
clofe and watchful eye oyer me when I
vifited the Harem, I always took care that
my deportment in their prefence fhould be
fuch as tp give them no reafon for any com
plaint againft me. When in the apartments
of my patients I fometimes fo. far forgot my-
fe\f,

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 393
felf, as to enter into a pretty long converfa
tion ; but I found that the eunuch was al
ways difpofed to interrupt our entertainment,
by hinting that I had already ftaid too long,
and muft therefore depart. With Lalla
Douyaw, however, they feemed to have
lefs influence ; and though fhe thought it
prudent to make them occafional prefents,
yet fhe never would fuffer me to leave the
room till by her own requeft.
In one of my vifits, I obferved a procef-
fion, which upon enquiry I found was in
tended as an invocation to God and Maho
met for rain, ©f which there had been a
fcarcity for feveral preceding months. The
proceffion was commenced by the youngeft
children in the Harem, who were barely
^ble to walk, two abreaft, and thefe were
followed by the next in age, till at length
a great part of the women fell into the
groupe, making altogether upwards of «.
hundred perfons. They carried on their
heads their prayers written on paper, pafted
pn a fquare board, and proceeded through
all the courts finging hymns, the purport
pf which was adapted to the folemn occa
fion. I was informed that they had con
tinued

394 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
tinued this ceremony every day during the
-whole of the dry weather, and were to re
peat it till their prayers were attended with
.fuccefs. Though the emperor occafionally came
into the Harem, yet it was more ufual for
him to give notice to thofe ladies whofe
company he wifhed, to attend in his apart
ment ; when they made a point of fetting
off their charms to the beft advantage.
When in his prefence, they paid him every
attention which a common flave would
fhew to his mafter, and never ventured to
offer their opinion, except by his approba
tion. — But to return to the Moorifh ladies.
From the idea which is fo prevalent with
this people, that corpulency is the moft in
fallible mark of beauty, the women ufe a
grain which they name Ellhouba, for the
purpofe of acquiring that degree of per
fonal excellence at which they afpire : this
they powder, and eat with their cuscosoo.
They likewife take, with the fame intention,
large quantities of pafte, heated by the fteam
pf boiling water, which they fwallow in the
form of bolufes. It is certainly true, that
the number of corpulent women in this
3 country

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 395
Country is very confiderable, but it is pro
bable that this circumftance arifes as much
from their very confined and inadtive, mode
of life, as from any of the particular means
which they employ to produce that effect.
The drefs of the ladies confifts of a fhirt,
with remarkably full and loofe fleeves, hang
ing almoft to the ground, the neck and
breaft of which are left open, and their
edges are neatly embroidered with gold.
They wear linen, drawers, and over the
fhirt a caftan, which is a drefs fomething
fimilar in form to a loofe great coat without
fleeves, hanging nearly to the feet, and is
made either of filk and cotton or gold tifliie.
A fafh of fine linen or cotton folded is tied
gracefully round the waift, and its extremi
ties fall below the knees. To this fafh two
broad ftraps are annexed, and pafling under
each arm over the fhoulders form a crofs on
the breaft, and to that part of it which paffes
between the breaft and fhoulder of each arm
is fixed a gold tortoife, carelefsly fufpending
in front a gold chain. Over the whole drefs
is extended a broad filk band ofthe Fez
manufacture, which fufrounds the waift, and
compleats fhe drefs, except when they go
abroad,

396 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
abroad, and then they inveft themfelves in a
carelefs manner with the haick.
The hair is plaited from the front of the
head backwards in different folds, which
hang loofe behind, and at the bottom are all
fixed together with twifted filk. Over their
heads they wear a long piece of filk about
half a yard wide, which they tie clofe to the
head, and fuffer the long ends, which are
edged with twifted filk, to hang behind in an
eafy manner nearly to the ground. The re
mainder of the head-drefs is compleated by
a common filk handkerchief, which fur-
rounds the head like a woman's clofe cap,
differing from it only by being fixed in a full
bow behind inftead of in front. At the up
per part of each ear hangs a fmall gold r ng,
half open, which has at one end a clufter of
precious ftones, fufficient nearly to fill up the
vacancy occafioned by the opening of the
ring. At the tip, or lower part ofthe ear, is
likewife fufpended a broad and folid gold
ring, which is fo large that it reaches as low
as the neck, and which, as well as the other,
has a clufter of precious ftones, in propor
tion to the fize of the ring. The ladies
wear on th&ir fingers feveral fmall gold rings, fet

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 397
fet with diamonds or other precious ftones,
and on the wrifts broad and folid gold brace
lets, fometimes alfo fet with precious ftones.
Their necks are ornamented with a great
variety of bead and pearl necklaces. Below
thefe a gold chain furrounds the neck, and
fufpends in front a gold ornament.
Like the men, the Moorifh women wear
no ftockings, but ufe red flippers, curioufly
embroidered with gold, which they take off
when they enter their rooms. Immediately
above the ankle each leg is furrounded with
a large folid gold ring, which is narrow in
front, but very broad behind.
The ladies paint their cheeks of a deep
red, and ftain their eye-lids and eye-brows
with a black powder, which I apprehend to
be antimony. It is a branch of artificial
beauty in this country, to produce a long
black mark on the forehead, another on the
tip of the nofe, and feveral others on each
cheek. The chin is ftained of a deep red,
and thence down to the throat runs a long
black ftripe. The infide of the hands, and
the nails, are ftained of a deep red, fo deep
indeed that in moft lights it borders on black ;
and the back of the hands have feveral
6 fancy

398 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wt.
fancy marks of the fame colour. The feet
are painted in a fimilar manner with the
hands. I feldom obferved in the Harem the
women at any employment but that of form
ing themfelves into different circles for the
purpofe of converfation, fometimes in the
open courts, at others in the different apart
ments. As they are not permitted to enter
the mofques, they pray at the appointed
times in their own chambers. The Moors,
indeed, entertain the prejudice which is
commonly attributed to the Muffulmen in
general, that the female fex are altogether an
inferior fpecies of animals, merely formed to
be flaves to the pleafures of men, whofe fal-
vation is confequently not of fo much im
portance; and with this fentiment the con
duct of the men towards them in every in
ftance correfponds. The Moors likewife
affign other reafons for not permitting their.
females to er.ier their places of worfhip :
they affen, that it would be not only con
trary to the cuftom which prevails in the
country, of not allowing the fexes to meet
together in any particular fpot, but it might
alfo, by creating loofe and improper ideas, draw

A TOU* TO MOROCCO, &V. 399
draw off the attention from their de
votion. The women have their talb As as well
as the men their talbs. Thefe perfons,
who are either wives or concubines, juft as
it happens, and whofe principal qualifica
tions appear to be reading and writing, teach
the younger part ofthe Harem to repeat
their prayers, and the older females they
inftruct in the laws and principles of their
religion. All the emperor's daughters, and the
children of his concubines, as foort as they
were ofa proper age, were fent to Tafi
let, where they finifhed their education,
and by intermarrying with the defcendants
of his anceftors, they ferved to people that
extraordinary city — extraordinary on this
account, that the inhabitants of it are all
Sharifs, or the fuppofed lineal defcendants
of Mahomet, and are moft of them collate
rally or otherwife related to the prefent royal
family of Morocco. Muley Ishmael,
who, as I before obferved, was grandfather
to the late emperor, had three hundred chuV
dren at Tafilet, and their defcendants are
now

400 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
now fuppofed to amount to nine thoufand,
who all live in the fame place.
The fons of the emperor's wives are con-
fidered as princes, who have each an equal
claim to the empire, and as fuch are always
refpedted. If they have not difobliged their
father, they are generally appointed to the
government of fome ofthe provinces, where,
in the capacity of Bashaws, their prin
cipal object is the accumulation of riches.
The reader will have obferved, that I re-
ferved my obfervations on the female part of
fociety in this country, till I had given fuch
a general account ofthe Harem as might
ferve for a proper introdudlion to that part of
my fubjedt. By this arrangement I have
relieved myfelf from the tedioufnefs of re
petition, and my readers from that obfcurity
which naturally enfues when information is
imparted in a disjointed ftate. A few ob
fervations will ferve to compleat the defcrip
tion. The Moorifh women may be divided into
two claffes ; the black or negro women, and
the white.
The firft are either flaves, or have been
fo formerly; and from their fervices, or
through

A TOpR TO MOROCCO, Wc 401
through the favour of their proprietors, have
obtained their freedom. Thefe women have
all the characters, both with refpedt to dif-
pofition, features, and complexion, peculiar
to the country from which they are brought.
Many of them are in the fituation of concu
bines, and others in that of domeftics. Their
male children are all brought up to ferve in
the army of the emperor. — To this clafs may
be added the mulattoes, both male and fe
male, which are the production of a Moor
and a Negro woman, and are confequently
very numerous in this empire; but as they
differ but little in charadter from the Ne
groes, and are only diftinguifhed from them
by being indulged with their freedom, I
fhall pafs them over without any further
obfervations. Thofe of the female fex who may be pro
perly confidered as natives of the country,
are of a white, or rather a fallow com
plexion. From the very limited fphere in
which they are allowed to act, and the con
tempt in which they are held as mem bers of
fociety, their characters admit of very little
of that variety which diftinguifhes the Eu
ropean women. Happy, perhaps, it is for
D d 'them.

402 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
them, that the fun of knowledge has never
beamed upon their gloomy prifons, fince it
could only ferve to enlighten them to a fenfe
of their own mifery, difgrace, and fervitude!
Happy is that accommodating power, which
providence has vouchfafed to human- kind,
which adapts them to their feveral fitua-
tions ! and happy it is that the information
of mankind is generally fuch as fuits the
fphere in which they are deftined to act !
Educated with no other view than for
the fenfual purpofes of their mafter, or huf
band, the chief object of the female fex of
this country is to adminifter to his plea
fure, and by the moft abject fubmiffion to
alleviate the rigours of that fervitude to
which they are doomed. When in the
prefence of their defpot, both wives and
concubines are obliged to manifeft the fame
refpedt as his common flaves ; and though
all are not confined clofely to their houfes,
as is cuftomary in the emperor's Harem,
yet when they do go out they are obliged
to be extremely circumfpedt in concealing
their faces, and cautious in every part of
their demeanour. Women of diftindtion,
however, are very feldom-- allowed to go
¦2- abroad,

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 403
abroad, it is only thofe of the loweft clafs
which are ufually feen in the ftreets, and
even thefe are fo difguifed and wrapped up
in their haicks, that they appear more like
a bale of cloth put in motion, than a hu
man form.
If they happen to meet an European
in the country, at a time when no Moor
is in fight, they feldom mifs the oppor
tunity of difplaying their features, by
throwing the haick on one fide, and even
to laugh and converfe with him, though
always with the utmoft rifk, as the eye of
jealoufy, it is well known, never flumbers.
If an European or a Jew fhould be
caught in a elandeftine connection with a
Moorifli woman, he is obliged to become a
convert to the Mahometan faith, or his
life would be forfeit ; and the woman,
I was informed, is punifhed either by burn
ing or drowning, though I cannot fay I
ever knew an inftance of that dreadful fen
tence being put in execution. A man,
indeed, muft have uncommon addrefs, and
no fmall fhare of caution, to carry on an
intrigue of that kind, though on the part of
the women of this country he will feldom
want for encouragement. D d2 It

4°4 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
It muft, however, be allowed, that the
means which the Moors employ for the
prevention of intrigues, veiy often tend to
•the encouragement of them. By dreffing
themfelves in the female habit, men may
very eafily pafs the ftreets unobferved, as
they may reft affurecl they will not be ad-
deeffed or even looked at by the Moors ;
and if they contrive to call at the houfe
when the mafter is from home, they need
be under no apprehenfions of being de
tected when he returns. If he fees a ftrange
woman's flippers at the door of his Ha
rem, he concludes it is a female neighbour,
and never approaches the room till the flip
pers are removed .
The drefs of the opulent females among
the Moors is fimilar to that of the em
peror's ladies, differing only in the value
of the materials. Thofe of the inferior
clafs wear linen drawers, and over them a
coarfe woollen frock, tied round the waift
with a band. They plait the hair in two
folds, from the upper part of the head all
the way down behind, wearing over it a
common handkerchief tied clofe to the
head, and when they go out they wear the
HAICK. CHAP.

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We-. 405

CHAP. XIII.
Duplicity ofthe Emperor. — Plan of the Au
thor to effeB his Emancipation — unfuccefs-
ful. — Application through another Channel.
— Curious Prefent from the Emperor. —
Striking Inftance of Tyranny. — Perfonal
Application to the Emperor. — Traits of
Defpot'fm. — The Emperor's Difpatches ob
tained. — Commiffons from the Ladies in the
Harem. — Anecdotes of an Englifh Mu
latto. — Journey to Buluane — Defcrip
tion of that Fortrefs. — Singular Mode of
P offing the River. — Arrival at Sallee
— at Tangier. — Prefent from the Em
peror. — Return to Gibraltar.
TEN days having elapfed fince my
firft attendance on Lalla Zara,
the emperor defired my patient to acquaint
him what effedt the medicines had pro
duced ; and being informed that fhe was
apparently in a ftate of recovery, he fent
Into the Harem a doubloon piece, wrapped
D d 3 up

406 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
up in one corner of a filk handkerchief,
and ordered the lady to prefent me with it
as a compliment for the fervice I had already
rendered her, accompanied with fplendid
promifes, if I fucceeded in reftoring her to
perfect health.
Little reflection was requifite to convince
me, that thefe manoeuvres had an aim and
tendency very different from that of ful
filling the emperor's engagements relative
to my return. It required, therefore, fome
confideration to determine, whether it would
be moft prudent to continue my attendance,
or exert myfelf immediately with redoubled
vigour to accomplifh my emancipation.
The latter mode of conduct I refolved upon,
for the following reafons.
In the firft place, I had been abfent from
the garrifon much longer than was originally
intended by government; it was, therefore,
impoflible to fay how far the protraction
of my refidence in Morocco might inter
fere with the arrangements of my fuperiors,
or affect the fervice. Secondly, every Eu
ropean with whom I converfed, or corre-
fponded, advifed me by all means to em
brace the firft opportunity of returning; fince.

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 437
fince, though my patient was for the pre
fent in a recovering ftate, yet, from the
caprice and ignorance of the Moors, there
was fome reafon to apprehend that fhe
might tire of her medicines ; and confider-
ing the matter in the moft favourable point
of view, fuppofing fhe could be relieved
entirely from her complaint, it was not
improbable that the women, who had been
the original occafion of her illnefs, upon
obferving her recovery, might, with the
fame diabolical malignity which induced
them to adminifter the firft dofe of poi
fon, be inclined to avail themfelves of my
attendance, and injure her conftitution a
fecond time ; while all the ill confequences
would infallibly be attributed to my treat
ment. The age and infirmities of the em
peror alfo rendering my fituation very pre
carious, determined me to employ the ear-
lieft opportunity in effecting my efcape ;
and the following was the plan which ap
peared to promife~-the moft probable fuc
cefs. I told my patient that I had brought
with me, very little more medicine than
was fufficient for the cure of Muley Ab-
D d 4 sulem;

408 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
sulem; and that thofe which I had ad-
miniftered to her were the few which had
not been ufed; that as they muft neceffarily
foon be exhaufted, and as my attendance on
her without medicines could anfwer no
purpofe whatever, I would recommend her,
for her own fake, to advife the emperor to
fend me to Gibraltar for a frefh fupply.
" Ah !" exclaimed the lady, " there is no
" occafion for your going, the emperor can
" write to the conful for them," For a
reply of this kind I was not wholly unpre
pared ; and as I had found it neceffary to act
a part on this occafion, I determined to go
through with it, and reluctantly to play the
empiric, by informing my patient that the
compofition of thefe medicines was known
to no perfon but myfelf; and therefore tp
write for them would be totally ufelefs,
This ftatement appeared unanfwerable, and
my plan was fo far crowned with fuccefs;
An application, on my account, was im
mediately made to the emperor by all the
principal women, whom Lalla Zara.
had engaged jn her fervice for that pur-?
pofe. The emperor, however, whofe difcern- men£

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.

409

ment had been excellent in his ybufh, and
whofe intellect was at intervals as vigorous
as ever, was not to be impofed on. He
promifed the women more than he ever
intended to perform, and ten days more
elapfed, when I found myfelf as near re
turning as on my firft arrival at Morocco.
Thus baffled in my attempt, though my
indefatigable female agents repeated their
application not feldomer than twice every
day, I applied to a German renegado, who
fpoke the Englifh language, and who, from
his fituation at court, had frequent oppor
tunities of feeing the emperor privately, and
intreated of him to procure me a licence to
depart. But all that he was able to obtain
in my favour, was a renewal of the fame
fair promifes which had been fo frequently
made, and made with the fame fincerity.
I muft not omit, however, to relate, that
in a few days after this application, I re
ceived from the emperor a prefent of two
horfes, accompanied with a pofitive aflu-
rance of being difpatched immediately
home. One of the horfes was young, but was in
fe wretched and emaciated a ftate, that he
appeared

4io A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
appeared better calculated to afford food
for the canine race, than to prove of any
utility to a traveller. The other, it muft
be confeffed, was not in fo ftaryed and
miferable a condition, but then he was
completely fuperannuated, and confequently
quite as ufelefs as his companion. He had
been prefented to the emperor in the morn
ing by a poor man, who, for fome trifling
difgrace which he had incurred, had brought
this horfe as an atonement ; the man, how
ever, was committed to prifon, and in the
afternoon the horfe was prefented to me.
Before I could get thefe unparalleled
courfers out of the walls of the palace, I
was ftopped by the porters of four gates,
who each demanded a hard dollar as a per-
quifite annexed to their places. On my
arrival at home, two deputy mafters of
horfe alfo came to my apartment for a pre
fent fer themfelves, and for their chief; fo
that the reader may eafily judge how far
I was a gainer by the emperor's munifi
cence !
After this circumftance, feveral days hav
ing elapfed without any profpedt of accom-
plifhing my wiflies, I was advifed by an
European,

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 411
European, who had come from Mogodore
to Morocco upon bufinefs, as the fureft
means of fucceeding, to feize the firft op
portunity that offered of the emperor's
appearing in public, which he feldom did fo
as to be feen by ftrangers, and, trufting
no longer to other agents, at once afk his
majefty for my difpatches. Fortunately,
as I thought, the emperor afforded me
an opportunity of feeing him the follow
ing day; and, though the foldiers would
not allow me to approach him fo near as
to enable me to fpeak to him, yet I took
care to place myfelf in a confpicuous fitua-
ation ; but after continuing about half an
hour, he retired without taking the leaft
notice of me, or even appearing to obferve
me. The emperor, upon this occafion, was
in one of his open courts on horfeback,
with a large umbrella fufpended over his
head by a foldier of the negro infantry,
who was ftanding in front of the horfe;
while two other attendants were on each
fide, and with pieces of filk fixed to a cane,
were, by an eafy but conftant motion, guard
ing off the flies from the emperor's face. The

412 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. .
The minifters of ftate were placed in front,
and behind them were about a hundred
foot foldiers in different divifions, forming
altogether a kind of crefcent. Some of
thefe troops were armed with mufquets,
which they held in a ftiff manner clofe to
their bodies, with the muzzles pointed per
pendicularly, while others had no weapon
of defence but thick clubs.
The fovereign being at this moment in
a good humour, was converfing with his
minifters; and, as my interpreter informed
me, he was boafting to them of the mighty
actions which the Moors had performed
againft the Chriftians ; remarking, that his
predecefTors had deprived them of nearly all
the places they had formerly poffeffed in
Barbary, and that he had the fatisfadtion of
having taken Mazagan from the Portu
gueze. The minifters entered very little
further into the converfation than to repeat
at the conclusion of each fentence, Alla
cormus Sidi ! in Englifh, May God pre-
ferve the king ! which was communicated
to the neareft party pf foldiers, and from
thofe to the next, till they made the palace
echo with their voices.
§ My

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 4s3
My ill fuccefs upon this occafion did not
deter me from making an experiment
upon another favourable opportunity which
offered, after the lapfe of a few days. I
then had influence enough with the fol
diers to allow me to approach fo very near
the emperor's perfon, as rendered it utterly
impoflible for him to avoid obferving me,
though not fufficiently clofe to enable me
to fpeak to him. A meffenger /was confe-
quently difpatched by the fovereign to
know (ufing his own expreffion) what the
Chriftian wanted. I returned for anfwer,
that I came to thank his majefty for the
honour he had conferred on me, by pre-
fenting me with the two horfes, at the fame
time to remind him of his royal promife to
fend me immediately home. In confe
quence of his attention on firft feeing me,
I expedted every moment to be' ordered
into his immediate prefence, but in that
refpedt I was difappointed; for, after con
verfing near half an hour with his minifters,
he retired, and left me in the fame ftate of
fufpenfe which I had a few days before
experienced. The emperor was on horfe
back, and was endeavouring to explain to
his

414 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
his auditors the beauties of various parts of
the Koran, and laid a particular ftrefs on
thofe paffages which teach the followers of
Mahomet to deteft the Chriftians.
Such repeated difappointments, after hav
ing exerted myfelf to the utmoft in every
mode I could devife, it muft be allowed
were fufficient to induce me to confider my
fituation as defperate; and I felt myfelf
totally at a lofs what further fteps could be
adopted in this very critical fituation. The
uneafinefs I experienced at this moment
was happily not of long continuance, for
the day following the German renegado
brought me the emperor's letter of difpatch,
confifting merely of a few lines addreffed
to the governor of Tangier, ordering him
to permit me to embark, with my two
horfes, for Gibraltar.
The reader will too eafily anticipate the
extreme pleafure I felt at the idea of fhortly
leaving a country where I had experienced
fuch a continued feries of ingratitude, difap-
pointment, and uneafinefs, to render it at
all neceffary for > me to enlarge upon that
topic. It will be fufficient to fay, that I
loft no time in making the neceffary prepa rations-

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 415
rations for the journey, and in availing
myfelf of the earlieft opportunity to take
my leave of the ladies in the Harem, moft
carefully avoiding to communicate to them
the contents of the emperor's letter. Had
they known, indeed, that I was not to re
turn, it is probable they would have em
ployed the fame influence for my detention,
which they had before exerted in favour of
my liberation, and moft likely with greater
fuccefs. It is humiliating and unpleafant in the
higheft degree to ftoop to deception upon
any occafion ; to be obliged, therefore, in
juftice to myfelf, and for my own perfonal
fafety, to carry on a fyftematical plan of du
plicity, was not the leaft of the hardfhips to
which I was compelled to fubmit in this
country. I could not, however, now re
treat ; and, as I knew that Gibraltar fur
nifhed many articles which were not to be
procured in Barbary, I made an offer of my
fervices to the ladies ; and received the fol
lowing commiffions, for the faithful execu
tion of which, on my return from Gibraltar,
I was obliged to pledge myfelf. For

4t6 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
For Lalla Batoom, the Queen ofthe
Harem, a fetof elegant, but very fmall cups
and faucers.
For Lalla Douyaw, the emperor's
favourite wife, a neat mahogany tea-board,
with four fhort feet, to have two drawers,
and to be elegantly ornamented with
glaffes ; a fel of very fmall Indian cups and
faucers ; a fet of different kinds of perfumed
waters. For Lalla Zara, my patient, nine
yards of yellow, the fame of crimfon, and the
fame of cochineal coloured damafks ; the
fame quantities and colours in fattins ; one
dozen of Indian cups and faucers ; one hun
dred large red beads ; one cheft of tea and
fugar ; a large quantity of coffee and nut
megs. For one of the concubines, a large por
tion of different coloured fattins and filks ;
a variety of handfome pearls ; a fet of Indian
cups and faucers ; two fmall mahogany boxes
for cloaths ; two japanned tea-boards, the
one to be white and the other yellow.
For another concubine, fome perfumed
waters ; a mahogany bedftead and polls ; a
green Dutch box. For

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 417
For Lalla Talba, aprieftefs, a hand--
fome prefent, which fhe leaves to my tafte
and choice.
For the daughter of Muley Has em, a
mahogany cheft with two drawers ; a flafk of
lavender water.
For Lalla Zara's nurfe, twelve large
red beads.
For two of the eunuchs, each a filver
Watch. Thefe commiffions may perhaps appear
too trifling to deferve infertion ; but I have
brought them forward to the reader only
becaufe thefe little circumftances frequently
difplay the peculiar tafte, the manners, the
genius of a country, much better than thofe
weighty and important tranfadtions in which
the paffions common to human nature muft
be interefted, and in which, of confequence,
all people in fimilar circumftances muft act
and feel alike.
It would have required no trifling fum of
money to purchafe all thefe articles; and
even when that obftacle was removed, there
would arife one ftill greater from the diffi
culty of tranfportation in this country. As
-Morocco is an inland city, I was entirely
E e precluded

4i8 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
precluded from the fafeft and eafieft of
carriages ; and by land, many of the articles
were fo cumberfome and weighty, that in the
bad roads it would have been impracticable
to employ mules. I fhould therefore have
been reduced to the neceffity of hiring
camels, the expence of which, joined to that
ofthe commiffions, would confequently have
been enormous.
Having fupplied Lalla Zara with tbx
few medicines which remained, and taken
my final leave of the Harem, my next ob--
jedt was to find out a new interpreter, fince
the perfon whom I had procured at Mogo
dore, had it not in his power to accompany
me to Tangier. In his place I fixed upon
a mulatto, who was born a Chriftian in one
of the Englifh Weft India Iflands, and upon
coming to Mogodore as a feaman in an
Englifh veffel, was immediately, on account
of his complexion, claimed by the Moors as
a countryman. They committed him im
mediately to prifon, and, by the influence of
hard ufage, at length compelled him to be
come a convert to their religion. This man,
who is between fixty and feventy years of
age, has been in the country about feven
years,

a tour to Morocco, Wc. ^
years, and was occafionally employed in the
public works by the late emperor. He can
fpeak the Englifh, French, Spanifh, Italian,
and Arabic languages, but the Englifh is
moft familiar to him.
The horfe prefented to me by Muley
Absulem I mounted myfelf, and made my
interpreter ride thofe of the emperor alter
nately, that I might give them every poffible
chance of reaching Tangier alive, in cafe
I could not difpofe of them on the road.
Thefe, with three horfe foldiers allowed by
the emperor, two mules for my baggage, and
a muleteer to take charge of them, formed
the whole of my fuite on the journey.
We departed from Morocco on the 12th
of February 1790, and in three days arrived
at the caftle of Buluane, which is a journey
of about eighty miles, confifting of an unin
terrupted feries of wild uncultivated heath.
This caftle was the firft piece of architec
ture which offered itfelf to our view fince
we left Morocco ; the country being very
thinly inhabited by only a few Arabs, who
live in tents. In thefe douhars or en
campments I endeavoured, on the fcore of
fafety, nightly to pitch my tent.
E e 2 Tke

420 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
The caftle is fituated oh the fummit ofa
very high and rugged hill, forming on its
Northern fide a fteep precipice, at the bot
tom of which runs a deep and rapid river,
named the Mor bey A, which I had previ
oufly paffed at its termination in the ocean
at Azamore. As a piece of architecture
this caftle has no recommendation but the
ftrength of its walls : it is inhabited by fome
Negroes who were banifhed to this place,
at the time when Sidi Mahomet thought
proper to diiba- I ... confiderable portion of
his black troops; intending, by that means,
to prevent toe±r raifing a mutiny or rebellion
in the country, to which, as I have inti
mated, they are always inclined. To dif-
pofe of them in this manner, therefore,
was found policy, as, though they were out
of the way of mifchief for the prefent, they
might eafily be embodied upon any prefling
emergency. The eminent fituation of this fortrefs,
the fteep and rugged precipice, the depth
and rapidity of the river below, with the
wildnefs 'of the neighbouring country, fill
the mind with a mixture of admiration and
fublime horror. But what attracted my at
tention

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 421
tention more than any other circumftancej
was the mode in which they pafs this dan
gerous river. At Azamore, Sallee,
Mamora, Larache, &c. where the rivers
are too deep to be forded, the traveller .is
ferried over ; and yet at this part, though at
no very great diftance from any of the above
places, the people are totally ignorant what
kind ofa machine a boat is. What is ftill
more remarkable, the firft people of the
country, who are obliged to pafs this river
in their way from Morocco to all the Nor
thern provinces, and who are as well ac
quainted with the ufe of boats as the Euro
peans, are content to fubmit to the crazy
fubftitute which they find here, rather than
impart to the inhabitants pf the caftle this
eafy piece of information.
The mode in which thefe people crofs
the river, ferved to remind me of a puerile
amufement, in which mofi boys jtt one pe
riod or other haye taken delight. A raft is
formed of eight fheep fkins, filled with air,
and tied together with finall cords ; a few
flender poles are laid over them, to which
they are faftened, and this is the only means
E e 3 ufed

422 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
ufed at Buluane to conduct travellers with
their baggage over the river.
As foon as the raft is loaded, in other
words, as foon as it is charged with as much
weight as it will bear without finking, a
man ftrips, jumps into the water, and fwims
with one hand, while he pulls the raft after
him with the other ; and in the mean time a
fecond places himfelf behind, pufhing and
fwimming in a fimilar manner. The cur
rent at firft carries the apparatus a confider
able way down the river, but by the activity
ofthe fwimmers it is fpeedily extricated,
and its contents as quickly landed. The
horfes, mules, &c. having every article re
moved from their backs, are driven in a body
to the water fide, where the Moors imme
diately get behind them, and by the vio
lence of their fhouts fo completely terrify
the animals, that one or two of them fpee
dily take to flight, and fet the example, by
fwimming, to the reft, when they immedi^
ately follow.
Four days after leaving this river, we ar
rived at Sallee, which is about a hundred
and ten miles from Buluane, and one hun-
x dred

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc, 423
dred and ninety from Morocco, without
the occurrence of a circumftance worth re
lating^ the country proving a continuance
of die fame uncultivated heath as far as
Mensooria, which has been defcribed in a
former part of this Tour.
Sallee being the firft town I had feen
fince my departure from Morocco, which
was feven days, I was happy to avail myfelf
of my former introduction to the French
conful, and remain with him a couple of
nights. After this agreeable relaxation, I
departed for Tangier, where I arrived .on
the 26th of February.
As it was evident that the horfes which
bad been prefented to me by the emperor,
were not worth the expence of exportation,
and indeed feemed fcarcely able to encounter
the journey, I took every opportunity that
offered on the road to difpofe of them, but
my efforts were not attended with fuccefs ;
and by the time I arrived at Mamora, they
were fo completely tired, that they would
certainly have died had I ufed them another
day. I therefore found it neceffary to leave
them in the care of a Venetian gentleman
who refided at Mamora, with a requeft to
E e 4 difpofe

424 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
difpofe of them in the beft manner he could ;
and, as I did not like to lofe the advantage
of the order for embarkation, whicli is al
ways to be confidered as very valuable, fince
no horfes are exported but by an , exprefs
order of the emperor, under his fign manual,
I requefted this gentleman to purchafe for
me two of the beft that were to be procured
in the province, and to fend them after me to
Tangier ; but they unfortunately did not
arrive in time.
In about a fortnight after my arrival at
Tangier, an order came down from the
emperor, de firing the governor to purchafe,
at the expence of his royal treafury, two
oxen, ten fheep, ten milch goats with their
kids, a hundred fowls, and a large propor
tion of fruit and vegetables of every defcrip
tion, Thefe articles were to be prefented
to me as from the emperor, in return for
my attendance on Lalla Zara; and I
was to be allowed permiffion to embark
them free of all duty, for Gibraltar. The
fame order - brought likewife a requeft
from the emperor, that I would engage
to fend my patient a frefh fupply of me
dicine?. On

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, fcff. 425
> r- On the 27th of March I arrived at Gib
raltar. It would be trifling with my reader
to defcribe my feelings on the firft view of a
fpot, protected by Englifh laws, and deco
rated by Englifh manners. My fenfations,
indeed, may be more eafily conceived than
they can be expreffed. Let it fuffice to fay,
that no wretch, efcaped from the gloomy
horrors of a dungeon, could experience
more lively pleafure on firft contemplating
the light of day, than I felt on the firft view
of an Englifh garrifon.
As the communication between the gar
rifon and Barbary was not open at the time
of my arrival, the prefent of the emperor
proved more valuable than I at firft con
ceived it. It is obvious, however, that its
amount, and indeed the total of all which I
received during my refidence in the country,
could fcarcely be more than adequate to my
expences ; much lefs could it be confideredas
a compenfation for the great rifk, the trou
ble, and the anxiety which I had encounter
ed. I had been under the neceffity of draw
ing upon the conful for confiderable fums,
befides what I received through other chan-
nels ; fo that I returned from my expedition with

426 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
with my curiofity fatisfied^ my mind, I truft,
in fome degree enlightened, as far as the
obfervation of a different country, and dif
ferent manners, ferves to improve our ftock
of knowledge ; but, in a pecuniary view, I
certainly returned very litde better than I
went *.
• It is certainly incumbent on me to add, that my fervices
in Barbary have fince been handfomely rewarded in the
appointment of Surgeon to the zoth or Jamaica Regiment of
Light Dragoons.

CHAP.

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 437

CHAP. XIV.
Return ofthe Author to Barbary. — Te t u a n.
— Town and Buildings — Port.— Prefent
State of the Empire of Morocco under
Muley Yazid — Anecdotes relative •to
bis Acceffion. — Muley Yazid fent to
Mecca by his Father— his Return — takes
Refuge in a SanBuary .—State ofthe late
Emperor. — Death ofSivi Mahomet. —
Diffention among the Princes. — Muley
Hasem proclaimed Emperor-r-retraBs his
Pretenftons. — Anecdote relative to Muley
Abdr ahaman — curious Letter from him
^ Muley Yazid.— His Submifft 'on.—
Peaceable Eftablifhment of Muley Yazid.
— Depredations of tbe Arabs. — Perfecution
of the Jews.— Death of Alcaide Ab
bas. — CharaBer of Muley Yazid. —
Death of Muley Yazid.
SOON after my arrival at Gibraltar,
I was prevailed upon to digeft and
arrange the notes and obfervations which I
had made during my refidence in Barbary, and

4^8 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
and to publifh propofals for a narrative of
my Tour. In thefe propofals, having en
gaged to relate the particulars of the em
peror's death, and of his fon's fucceffion,
and being defirous of procuring every infor
mation that could ferve to complete my
account of the empire of Morocco, I
obtained leave of abfence for a fhort time
from the garrifon for the purpofe, and was
induced from that motive to pay a fecond
vifit to Tangier. It would be ufelefs
to detain the reader with any further de
fcription of that place, I fhall therefore
only obferve, that after diligently collecting
all the information, political or otherwife,
that I could procure, I availed myfelf of the
opportunity of vifiting Tetuan, which
the new Emperor had once more opened
to the refort of Chriftians; and which I
had long, with much earneflnefs, defired to
fee. The city of Tetuan is very pleafanfly
fituated at the opening of the Straits into
the Mediterranean; it is built on a rifing
ground between two ranges of high moun
tains, one of them forming a part of the
kffer Atlas. It lies about ten leagues to
the

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. ty
the Eaft of Tangier, and commands a
very beautiful profpedt of the Mediter^-
ranean, from which it is diftant about five
miles; and the valley near which it is
fituated is variegated with gardens, plan
tations of olives, and vineyards, and is
ornamented with a river, which takes its
courfe directly through its centre.
The barren and gloomy appearance of
the lofty mountains, which feem almoft to
project over each fide of the town, con-
trafted with the beautiful verdure with
which it is immediately furrounded, the
diftant view of the fea, and the ferpentine
direction of the river, which is navigable
for fmall craft as far as Marteen, afford
altogether a fcene in the higheft degree
pidturefque and romantic.
The town itfelf is of very confiderable
extent, and its walls are flanked in different
parts with fquare forts, on which a few
fmall pieces of ordnance are mounted.
This fortification, however, is merely cal
culated to defend the place againft an attack
from the Arabs, who, when difcontented,
are ready to plunder every thing which is
expofed to thehy depredations; but it could by

43<» A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
by no means refill the exertions of a regular
army. Befides thefe fmall forts, there is a
fquare caftle on the fummit of the hill,
on which twenty-four pieces of cannon are
mounted ; though this is alfo but a weak
and ill-conftrudted piece of fortification, yet
from its elevated fituation it commands the
town in every direction.
The ftreets of Tetuan are very nar
row, filthy, and many of them are nearly
arched over by the houfes. Of the inten
tion of thefe projections I could form no con
ception, unlefs they are meant, by keeping
offthe rays ofthe fun, to render the ftreets
cooler in the fummer feafon. If fo, it muft
pn the other hand be allowed, that they alfo
prevent a free circulation of air, which, in
a hot climate, and in ftreets fo narrow and
filthy, muft be greatly injurious to the
health of the inhabitants.
Though the houfes have a very mean
appearance from the ftreets, yet their apart
ments in general are roomy, tolerably con
venient, and well furnifhed; and, contrary
to thofe of Tangier, are built two ftories
high. The ELCAissERiA^or fair for the
difpofal of goods* is filled with fhops, con
taining

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 43t
taining a great variety of very valuable
articles, both of European and their own
manufadture. From Fez they procure the
articles of that place, as well, as thofe of
Tunis, Algiers, Alexandria, and
Guinea. From Spain and Gibraltar they
import thofe of Europe, for which they
give in return provifions and fruit of every
defcription ; ef all the towns in the empire,
therefore, Tetuan may now be confidered
as next to Fez in commercial importance.
As the Moorifh inhabitants are princi
pally merchants on a large fcale, they are
opulent, much more polifbed and acceffible
to ftrangers than thofe of moft of the other
towns in this empire. Their complexions
are generally fair, and they are altogether a
well-looking people. On our firft arrival,
from the novelty of feeing Chriftians in the
town after an exclufion of nearly twenty
years, when we walked the ftreets the people
univerfally ran out of their houfes to look at
us; and a very confiderable body of them for
fome time followed us wherever we went.
They, however, by no means offered us any
kind of infult; on the contrary, indeed, being
informed that we were Englifh, they ex
preffed

432 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
prefied every mark of fatisfaction, and many
of them invited us to their gardens. The
Moors were always partial to the Englifh
in preference to every other European na
tion; they even profeffed their attachment
at the very time when Sidi Mahomet
was upon fuch ill terms with our court;
and fince Muley Yazid's acceffion, they
have given the moft unlimited fcope to the
expreffion of their partiality.
The mofques of Tetuan are very large,
numerous, and appear to have by far a
greater claim to magnificence, than thofe
in the other towns of the empire.
The Jews in this place, previous to the
late plunder by order of the new emperor,
were wealthy; they live by themfelves in a
feparate part of the town, where they are
fhut out every night from the Moors ; their
women are remarkable for their clearnefs
of complexion, and the beauty of their
features. The port of Tetuan, is fituated at about
two miles diftance from the fea, and is
named Marteen; at this place there is,.
however, only a Angle houfe, which is ufed
for the purpofe of collecting the cuftoms.
4 As

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc 433
As the mouth of th6 river on which it is
fituated is now nearly choaked up with
fand, it only admits of fmall craft ; and even
thefe can proceed no' further than Mar-
teen, where there are ufually a few of the
emperor's row-gallies laid up to winter.
The entrance of the river is defended by
a high and fquare tower, on which are
mounted twelve pieces of cannon. This
fortification might anfwer the purpofe of
preventing the approach of fmall veffels,
but it is by no means calculated to oppofe
any confiderable force. The bay, or more
properly the road of Tetuan, is formed
by a high point of land which runs out into
the fea a confiderable diftance to the Weft
ofthe river, and will only fhelter veffels in
a Wefterly wind ; when it veers round to
the Eaft ward, they are obliged to leave the
bay, and retire to fome fafer port.
During my continuance at Tetuan, I
was not inattentive to the main object of
this expedition : but, as the information
which I could colledt there, was not mate
rially different from what I learned at Tan
gier) I fhall blend the different accounts
together, and haften to gratify the reader's
F f curiofity,,

434 A TOUR TO MOROCCC), We.
curiofity, as far as- lies in my power, con
cerning the fucceeding events which took
place in the empire, from the time of my
leaving Morocco to the acceffion and
death of the late emperor. The infor
mation which I obtained in confequence
©f my fecond vifit to Barbary, concerning
the events that took place in the empire
fubfequent to the death of Sidi Mahomet,
and which I communicated in my firft edi
tion, were the moft authentic and beft I
could, in the fhort time I was in the country,
procure ; fince my return to Gibraltar, how
ever, feveral new circumftances have arifen,
which have obliged me to alter both my ori
ginal plan and fentiments, and to carry on my
narrative up to the death of MbtleyYazid,
whofe conduct will now appear in a very
different light to what it did at the firft
view. The difficulty of obtaining an im
partial account of the politics of a country
in which individuals are cautious to a degree
how they exprefs their fentiments, will be
deemed, I hope, a fufficient apology for my
concifenefs on this fubjedt, as well as for
any errors into which I inadvertently may
have, fallen. Muley

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 435
Muley Yazid, whole mother is the
offspring of an Englifh renegado, having
incurred, a few years ago, his father's dif-
pleafure, was fent on a journey to Mecca,
the old emperor hoping, that by feeing the
world he would, in a maturer age, reform,
and be brought to a fenfe of his duty.
Upon his approaching the frontiers, about
four years ago, very ftrong and feemingly
authentic reports were circulated, that he
was on his march with a large army to
dethrone his father. Thefe rumours could
not fail to affect the old man with con
fiderable anxiety, which, however, was
afterwards removed by the retreat of Mu
ley Yazid to Tunis, without having
made any hoftile exertions whatever.
In the fummer of 1789 the prince pri
vately entered the country, and took refuge,
as has already been intimated, in a fanctuary
named Muley Absulem. To this facred
fpot, which is held in great veneration by
the Moors, he retired as a place of fafety,
without any intention of attacking his father,
but merely to remain there in readinefs to
declare himfelf, when the emperor's death
ihould take place, which, from his great
F f 2 ags

436 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
age and infirmities, was evidently an event
which could not be very diftant. Here he
had no people about him, but three or
four faithful attendants, and lived a ftrictly
retired life, as far removed as can well be
conceived from that ftate and confequence
which are ufually affected by princes.
The old emperor, however, confidered
his fon's intentions in a far different point
of view, and ufed every ftratagem he could
invent to draw him out of the fanctuary,
but without fuccefs.
At one time he wrote him word, that
if he would come to court, he would rein-
ftate him in his affections, and acquiefce
in every demand he would make; or, if he
chofe to leave the country, he would allow
him fufficient to live in Turkey, or at
Mecca, refpected as a prince. On another
occafion he threatened to attack him, pull
down the fanctuary, and take him away by
force. To all thefe letters, the prince, by
the prudent advice of his mother, with
whom he kept up a private correfpondence,
always evaded giving a pofitive anfwer.
He affured his father of his affection, duty,
and the purity of his intentions ; and, with out

A-TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 437
out refilling to acquiefce in his wiflies, fent
fome excufe or other, explaining why he
could not for the prefent comply, but prp-
mifing that he would foon.
It is difficult to conjecture, whether
the emperor would have ufed any vio
lence towards his fon, in cafe he had
repaired to court. But it is well known,
that the old monarch wifhed particularly,
that Muley Absulem might be his fuc-
ceffor, and that he had a private diflike
to Muley Yazid ; which were fufficient
motives for the prudent conduct of the
latter. The various reports that were circulated
through the country, and particularly by
the people at court, that Muley Yazid's
intentions were hoftile to his father, and
the great efteem in which he knew he was
held by every individual in the country,
made the emperor confider this fon as a
very dangerous rival.
I have already fo fully reprefented, the
ftate in which the emperor was at that
period, that it would be only a repetition to
expatiate on it at prefent. It will be fuf
ficient to fay, that after three or four months
F f 3 unfuccefsful

438 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, tar.
nnfuccefsful negociations, the emperor fent
down his fon Muley Hasem to Tan
gier, with an army of fix thoufand Ne
groes, which were to be reinforced by men
drawn from the neighbouring provinces.
The prince's directions were, to offer a
confiderable reward from the emperor to the
perfons who had the care of the fanctuary,
if they would furrender or expel Muley
Yazid ; but if they refufed to comply
with this requeft, he was to pull down the
fanctuary, to feize Muley Yazid, and put
every man, woman, and child, in the neigh
bourhood, to the fword. This fanguinary
edidl, however, the sharifs had fpirit or
enthufiafm enough to refift *, and Muley
Hasem, not having fecured the confidence
of his troops, was afraid to attack his
brother. When they were encamped at
Tangier, he did not even venture to fleep
among them, but at night always retired
to the caftle,
Difgufted with this fruitlefs attempt, the
• See page 257, where this order ofthe emperor xefpeft-
Jng Muley Yazid, and the sharifs reafons for not
pbeying it, are fully explained.
§ emperor

A, TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 4y>
emperor called his fon a coWard and a
trifler; and immediately ordered Alcaide
Abbas, the commander in chief of the
black army, and the beft officer in his fer
vice, to fupercede Muley FIasem in the
command. Abbas carried a confiderable
reinforcement to the army already at Tan
gier, and was foon after joined by Muley
Slemma, the late emperor's full bro
ther. Thefe two officers were directed to
encamp near the fanctuary, and wait there
till joined by the emperor himfelf, with a
confiderable army from the Southward,
For this purpofe the emperor left Mo
rocco on the 29th March 1790, and tra
velled on horfeback. At the time he was
paffing out at the gate of the city, the
umbrella, which is always carried before
the emperor, and in that country is the
diftinctive mark of royalty, fuddenly broke
in two, and the head was carried up in the
air to a confiderable height before it fell.
That the enfign of royalty fhould be in
fo unaccountable a manner broken, at the
very moment of his departure on a journey,
upon the fuccefs of which the fate of his
F f 4 empire

440 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc,
empire feemed to depend, was an accident
which the emperor, who was remarkably
fuperftitious, confidered as a bad omen, and
he was certain portended fome calamity
which was to befal him on the road.
In confequence of thefe apprehenfions he
became remarkably uneafy, penfive, and
indifpofed ; and it is not improbable that
this trifling circumftance, united to a pre^
vious weak ftate of body and mind, con
tributed materially to haften his death.
From the time of his departure till the
fecond of April he made unufually fhort
ftages ; and on that day he ordered letters
to be written to Muley Slemma and Al-~
caide Abbas, in very ftrong terms arraign
ing the conduct of Muley Yazid, and di
recting them to encamp at the bottom of
the mountain on which the fanctuary was
fituated, and to block it up in fuch a manner,
that the prince fhould not find it poffible to
make his efcape. Soon after the figning of
thefe letters, he complained of a pain in his
head and ftomach, and was feized with vo
miting. He continued, therefore, for the
fpace of two days, without being able to pror eeed

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. t^\
eeed on his journey. On the 5th of April,
as he found himfelf unable to ride on horfe
back, he ordered his people to place him in
his litter, and commanded his own phyfician
to accompany him. When he halted on his
journey, in the evening, he was vifited by a
Jarge body of people, who came to pay their
refpedts to him. For thefe adventitious vifi-
ters the fovereign ordered a great feaft to be
prepared; he rafted of every difh that was
fent to them, and foon after complained of a
pain in his bowels.
On the following day he proceeded on
his journey, and in the evening the pains of
his head and ftomach were confiderably in
ereafed, and were foon after -followed by a
vomiting of blood. He now began to ex-
prefs a fenfe of his approaching diffolution ;
and, it is faid, ordered a letter to be written
to Muley Yazid, telling him, that he
hoped God would forgive, and blefs him;
but, as the truth of this circumftance is dif-
puted, I give it as a mere report.
His uneafinefs concerning his fituation did
not prevent him from regularly and devoutly
performing every part of his ablutions and
prayers, and fulfilling every ceremony of his
religion.

44i A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
religion. On the two fucceeding days the
emperor took very fhort journies, and, find
ing he had no profpedt of a recovery, he de
fired that his women would have him carried
to Rabat, and buried in a vault which: he
had built in his palace for that purpofe.
On the nth of April, upon entering the
town of Rabat, he expired in his car
riage, without fpeaking a fingle word. The
news of his death was not made public till
the following day, when he was buried in
his palace, agreeably to his orders, with
all the honours ufually paid to fuch per-
fonages. The death of Sidi Mahomet was cer
tainly a moft fortunate event for the people
of the Northern provinces, and particularly
for thofe who had manifefted any attachment
to Muley Ya-zid. His intention, indeed,
was no lefs than the total extirpation of all
the inhabitants ; and it is impoflible to fore-
fee where his cruelties might have termi
nated. On the other hand, it was not the
intention of Muley Yazid to come to any
engagement with his father, therefore, as the
emperor approached, he would have retired, till

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 443
till he had got beyond the boundaries of his
father's dominions.
Sidi Mahomet, when he died, was in
the 8 1 ft year of his age, and the 33d of his
reign. His charadter has already occupied
fo large a portion of thefe pages, that it
would be entirely fuperfluous to make any
additions. It is well known that, a few months pre
vious to his death, he was thoroughly con
vinced how greatly he had fallen a dupe to
Spanifh intrigues. By bribing the minifters,
and obfcuringthe mental eye ofthe fovereign
by large and repeated prefents, the court of
Spain procured leave to export great quanti
ties of corn free of duty, the cuftoms of
which, at a moderate computation, would
have brought him in five times the value of
the prefents he received. This indeed was
not the only inconvenience which the country
fuffered through this imprudent conceffion;
for the drought had been fo exceffive, the
preceding year, that a fcarcity of corn had
already taken place, and occafioned an uni-
verfal murmur among the people : fo that
had the exportation of that article been al
lowed a little time longer, a general famine, and

444 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
and confequently an univerfal rebellion, muft
have taken place. Befides this, out of pique
to the Englifh, .the Spaniards engaged the
emperor to refufe the fupplying of Gibraltar
with provifions, by which another confide
rable defalcation was made in his revenue.
Latterly, however, the monarch was fo fen-
fibfe of thefe impofitions, that he raifed the
duties upon thofe provifions and corn which
the Spaniards exported, to fo immoderate a
height, that they were obliged to fend home
their veffels empty.
Had he lived to this time, it is a matter of
doubt, whether affairs with Spain would have
ended only by increafing the duties ; for he
was fo entirely irritated by their conduct,
that it is not improbable that a rupture be
tween the two courts would have been the
confequence. On the other hand, his differ
ences with England, from the fame circum
ftances, would have been moft probably ad-
jufted and fettled, perfectly to the fatisfac
tion of our court. Indeed he had given di
rections for that purpofe two days previous to
his death.
I have already mentioned, that in this
country

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 445
country the fucceffion to the empire, though
reftricted to the fame family, is not limited
to any particular branch, but depends on the
influence each of the princes may have in
the country, and particularly on the army.
The government may therefore be confidered
as partly hereditary, and partly elective*.
Wealth, however, is not the only means of
obtaining this influence; for Muley Yazid,
the late emperor, was the pooreft of the royal
brothers. When the news of the emperor's death
reached Muley Slemma and Alcaide
Abbas, they certainly fell back with the
army towards Sallee ; but whatever they
might have in view by fo doing, they could
meet with no fupport. At Morocco, the
old emperor left his two fons Muley
Hasem and Muley Oussine entrufted
with the joint government of that city, or^
dering the inhabitants to pay to the firft
* The Mahometan law particularly direfts, and it is well
underftood by the more enlightened part of the Moors, that
the eldell fon, is the next heir to the throne ; but owing to,
the influence of the black army, and the ignorance of the.ma-
jority of the people, this circumftance in the empire of
Morocco 4s but feldom attended to.
3 prince

44S A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
prince the fum of ten thoufand hard dollars,
and the latter five. The partiality, however,
ofthe monarch fo greatly irritated Muley
Oussine, that he difcharged a mufquet at
his brother upon fome cafual difpute, but
miffed him. Muley Hasem, who at Tan
gier had manifefted a want of refolution,
intimidated by this conduct of his brother,
retired, fhut himfelf up in the palace, and left
Muley Oussine in full pofleflion of the
whole of the money.
As foon as Muley Hasem received in
telligence of his father's death, he publifhed
it to the people of Morocco, at the fame
time prefenting himfelf as the immediate heir
Of the crown. He was foon after proclaimed
by a few mountaineers ; but the principal
people of the city declaring in favour of Mu
ley Yazid, Muley Hasem was obliged
to give up his pretentions, and retire to his
late father's houfe.
Muley Oussine took the firft oppor
tunity of leaving Morocco, and repaired
to Muley Abdrahaman, who refided
among the Arabs in the moft fouthern part
of Suz. His motives for this ftep are differ ently

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 447
ently accounted for. It is by fome attri
buted to an apprehenfion of the new empe
ror's refentment, on account of the robbery
he had committed on Muley Hasem;
while others allege it was on the fcore of
having formerly killed one of Muley
Yazid's children.
Muley Abdrahaman had, during his
father's life, amaffeda very confiderable fum
of money, by his induftry and attention to
commercial affairs, and was at one time in
great favour with his father. The old man,
however, of whofe immoderate love of riches
I have already had occafion to fpeak, fooa
became jealous of his fon's wealth, and con-
feqently defirous of poffefling it. To effect
his purpofe without oppofition, he diffem-
bled his intentions fo far as to appoint his
fon governor of Sallee, a place of no^in-
confiderable importance ; and, in confequence
of this appointment, Muley Abdraha
man, having packed up all his money and
valuables on mules, in the moft affectionate.
manner took leave of his father, and pro--.
ceeded on his journey. He had not, however,
Jong proceeded in peace, before the emperor
fent a large detachment of troops after him,
with

448 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
with orders to ftrip him of every article in his
pofleffion ; which they fo effectually accom-
plifhed, that they left him mafter only of an
old rufty piftol. While the prince, naturally
irritated by fuch unworthy treatment, made
a rafh but moft folemn vow, that he would
never fee his father's face again ; and he im
mediately retired to the mountains in Suz,
where he has continued ever fince.
The emperor endeavoured to perfuadd-
his fon to return to court, by offering him
large prefents of money, and by the moft
fplendid promifes ; but the prince always
anfwered, that he never could comply with
his father's requeft, as he was convinced
his word was not to be trufted. Upon which
the old monarch included him in the curfe
he had uttered againft Muley Yazid.
When the emperor's death came to be
known in Suz, forty thoufand Arabs imme
diately tendered their fpontaneous fervices.
to affift Muley Abdrahaman in afcend-
ing the throne, and in refifting the preten-
fions of Muley Yazid ; and it was gene
rally expected that he would have made the
attempt, as the following letter was received
from him by the new emperor while he refided at

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 449-
at Fez. I infer t it as a fpecimen of Moorifh
compofition and of Moorifh" politeriefs.
" I have heard of my father's death, and
" that you have left the fanctuary, and call
" yourfelf emperor. — Go to your hole, you
" rat, or meet me at Morocco ; where Twill
" convince you, that Fez is not a place for.
" an emperor."
Though this was the only prince, in whofe
power it was to make any ferious oppofition
to Muley Yazid ; yet he fince gave up
that intention, wrote a letter of congratula
tion and fubmiflion tofiis brother, and made
an offer of his fervices. Thus amidft fo
many difficulties, and with fo many compe
titors, all of them confidering themfelves as
equally entitled to the fucceffion, was Muley
Yazid featedonthe throne without the fhed-
ding of a drop of blood, and almoft as peace
ably as in the beft-regulated ftate in Europe".
If we look back on the changes of mafters
which this empire had previoufly experi
enced, I believe we fhall fcarcely find an
inftance where affairs have been fettled fo
fuccefsfully and happily as on this occafion.
The only difturbances.that took place after
the old emperor's death, were fome predatory
G g ' incurftons

450 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
incurfions of the Arabs into the fouthern
provinces, who, under a pretence of fupport-
ing Muley Hasem, plundered Morocco,
and obliged the Chriftians and Jews to take
fhelter in the caftle. Mogodore was faved
by being fo well fortified, a»d by the great
exertions of the governor and inhabitants.
The country, however, adjacent to thofe
places, even as far as Sallee, was in fuch
a ftate of confufion that travelling became
totally impracticable for a confiderable
time. The town of Dar Beyda, which is
garrifoned by about an hundred and fifty
Negroes, who on feveral occafions had made
themfelves difagreeable to the furrounding
Arabs, nearly fhared the fame fate as Mo
rocco. As foon as the emperor's death
was made known there, the Arabs bought
up all the powder and ball that was in the
town, before the inhabitants were aware of
their intentions. For balls, which were
ufually fold at the price of eight or nine for a
blanquil, the Arabs now confented to pur
chafe at the rate of two blanquils each, and
at laft they completely ftripped the town of
all its fmall ammunition*. Having effected this
firft

A TOUR 'tO MOROCCO, Wc 451
firft ftep, they affembled in great numbers in
the neighbourhood of the town> armed with
mufquets. The governor, alarmed at the appearance
of fo confiderable a body of Arabs, went
out with fifty foldiers, and demanded of
them their intentions in thus tumultuoufly
affembling together. They replied, that as
the country and town people were both
equally fubjedts of the empire, it became
neceffary that deputations from each party
fhould meet in the town, to determine upon
the perfon proper to be eledted their fove
reign. In return, the governor anfwered, that he
had no objection whatever to a few of their
principal people coming into the town, for
the purpofe they mentioned; but that he
could not fee any reafon why fo many per
fons fhould on fuch an occafion be collected
together, and prefent themfelves in a hoftile
ftate againft a city of the empire. To this
obfervation the Arabs did not condefcend to
reply, but infifted upon being admitted into
the town ; and were as obftinately refufed.
After fome parlying, however, they promifed
ty difperfe, if the governor would pay them
G g 2 tw©

4J2 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
two thoufand dollars. This he refufed, ob
ferving, that in making this demand they^
were treating the inhabitants of the town
like Jews; and that they muft difperfe, or
take the confequence. A reply of this na
ture -was calculated to enrage inftead of con
ciliating the Arabs, and they began to fet
the huts on fire, and at the fame time con
tinued to advance towards the town.
Their force at this period was increafing
almoft. every moment, by numbers who
came down from the mountains ; and the
governor, apprehending immediate danger
to the town, privately difpatched a meffen-
ger to the inhabitants, cautioning them to
be on their guard againft the Arabs, and at
the fame time announcing that he had no
opportunity of retiring himfelf.
As the town had been previoufly cleared
of its flints, powder, and ball, it is impof-
fible to defcribe the confternation of the
people. To add to their diftrefs, fome fmall
veffels, which had ammunition on board, had
the day before been unfortunately driven,
by bad weather, out of the bay, and the
town appeared deftitute of every refource.
The Spanifh. houfe, however, which was
fettled

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 453
fettled at Dar Beyda, and had very con
fiderable property in the place, advifed the
inhabitants to clofe the gates immediately,
and to mount on the wall fronting the
enemy an old twelve pounder, which was
without a carriage, and was the only piece
of ordnance in the place. At the fame
time they offered three dollars to every man,
who would affift in defending the ramparts.
Having mounted the gun on the wall, they
were ftill at a lofs for one of the moft ma
terial articles, viz. powder; there was fome in
the magazine, but the governor was on the
outfide, and had the key in his cuftody. The
Spaniards advifed them by all means, upon
fuch a prefling emergency, to break open the
door of the magazine, which they immedi
ately did, and with powder only fired off
their peace of cannon among the Arabs.
An attack fo unexpected upon the Arabs,
who had flattered themfelves that • there
was neither a gun or powder in the place,
pu£ them for fome time into the utmoft
confternation, and they began to difperfe.
But upon finding that no perfon was wound
ed, they foon affembled again, with a full
determination to attack the town. The
G g 3 - Spaniards

454 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
Spaniards now advifed the inhabitants to
load the piece with a ball, which they by
accident found, and fire it directly among
them. This manoeuvre was attended with
the moft brilliant fuccefs. The Arabs im-'
mediately difperfed, and gave the governor
time to re-enter the town with his troops;
and at length, being fenfible that they could
effect nothing by a regular attack, they
next attempted to take the place by ftrata-
gem. For this purpofe, they divided them-r
felves into two parties ; one was polled on
the right fid~ of the town, and the other
on the \-xi. The party on the right fide
fent in a deputation to the governor, in
forming • him that they were friends, and
requefting that they might be let into the
town, to affift him in conquering thofe on
the left, whu were enemies, from whom
they had deferted. This propofal, how
ever, was obftinately refufed on the part of
the governor, who defiied them to keep at
a diftance, or take the confequence ; upon
this the two parties again united, and en
deavoured to furprife the town pn the water-
fide. The veffels, which had been driven put
the day before, returning about this time,
Powder^

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 455
powder, balls, and' a few fmall pieces
of cannon were taken out of them ; and
when the Arabs made their laft attack, by
night, the town took the' alarm, fired on
them, and obliged them to retire. The
following day the pieces of cannon were
mounted in different parts on the walls
of the town, which had the defired effect ;
for the Arabs, finding they had no chance
of fuccefs, difperfed totally, and went to
their different homes. For fome time after
this circumftance, not one of them was
permitted to enter the town, but upon con
dition that he fhould firft leave his mufquet
and fword on the outfide of the gate.
The Spanifh houfe, during this petty
fiege, fupplied the late emperor's women,
who happened to be in the town, on this
occafion, with money and other neceffaries,
and out of their own ftores furnifhed corn
to the inhabitants. The new fovereign was
fo pleafed with the conduct of the Spa
niards, that he fent them a -letter of thanks,
as well for their zeal in defending the town,
as for the fupport they afforded to his fa
ther's women. Not fatisfied, however, with
the barren return of thanks, he ordered
G g 4 them

456 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
them alfo to be repaid the whole of their
expences, and fent them a prefent of two
lions. Thefe were the principal difturbances
which took place, in confequence of the
emperor's death. By degrees the fpirit
for plunder, on the part of the Arabs, was
lefs general, and the country became in a
ftate of perfect peace and tranquillity.
The news of the emperor's death reached
Tangier on the 15th of April; upon
which the governor repaired to the great
mofque, made a fhort prayer for Sidi
Mahomet, and proclaimed Muley Ya
zid his fucceffor. After this ceremony, the
public crier was placed in a confpicu-
ous fituation, where he publicly pro
claimed Muley Yazid ; in his name de
nouncing the fevereft punifhment againft
any perfon, who fhould dare to oppofe the
new fovereign.
As Muley Yazid had been proclaimed
both in the church and in the town, the
confuls all agreed to write him a letter,
condoling with him on his father's deceafe,
and congratulating him upon his acceffion
to the throne. I fhould have obferved, that

A TQUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 457-
that. the only ceremony attending a new
emperor's acceffion. to the throne, is a pub
lic proclamation in the ftreets and mofques.
When the proclamation takes place in the
prefence ofthe emperor, which by the law
ought to be performed publicly, at leaft in
the three capitals of the empire, it is cuf
tomary for all the chief priefts and doctors
of law to affemble, with the other great
people ofthe town, and for the MWti 0$
Cadi to read aloud to the emperor, a fhort
recapitulation of fome of the laws of the
Koran ; which direct, That he fhall preferye
the empire, adminifter fpeedy juftice, pro
tect the innocent, deftroy the wicked, and
f© far from countenancing and keeping
near his facred perfon any adulterer, that he
fhall punifh adultery, prevent the expor
tation of corn and provifions to the preju
dice ofthe people, tax provifions according
to their plenty or fcarcity, and forbid ufury
to be exercifed towards the poor, which is
an abomination before God. He is told, that
if he breaks thefe articles, he fhall be pu
nifhed, as he ought to punifh others under
a fimilar circumftance.
The fame ceremony is performed before all

45S A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
all Bashaws, Alcaides, and Shaicks,
upon their firft receiving their appointment.
How far thefe few but excellent admoni
tions are attended to, either by the emperor
or the officers under his command, I have
already fufficiently explained in a former part
of the narrative.
On the fucceeding day, which was the
Moorifh fabbath, all the great people of
the town affembled at the mofques, and,
with greater ceremony than the day before,
prayed for the, foul of the deceafed fove
reign, and proclaimed Muley Yazid his
fucceffor. On the fame day all the Jeweffes
of Tangier were ordered by the governor
to repair to the caftle, and lament Sidi
Mahomet's death; which they performed
by loud fhrieks and lamentations.
On the 17th, the bafhaw communicated to
the confuls a letter, which he had received
from Muley Yazid at the fanctuary, where
in he ordered the bafhaw to condudt all the
confuls to him with their prefents, under a
guard of fifteen foldiers. On the fame day
a falute of twenty-one gun s was fired from
the battery, in confequence of an order;
having arrived for a general releafe and par*
don tp all prifoners. Seven

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 459
Seven poor fharifs or petty princes, who
brought this order, delivered at the fame
time directions to the confuls to clothe them
from head foot at their own expence. In
confequence of this, the confuls furnifhed
each of them with cloth for a caftan, with
two britannias, and twenty dollars ; to this,
as it was not fufficient to fatisfy them, they
were obliged to add a ftill further fupply of
money, On the following day the confuls
fet off on their journey with the bafhaw,
and the principal people of the town, both
Moors and Jews. In the evening, Re is
Musti Galli, with two other fea cap
tains, arrived at the conful's camp with a
letter from the new emperor, inviting them
to repair to him at Tetuan, and promifing
to renew the ancient treaties of peace and
commerce with their nations. The captains
related, that Muley Yazid had left the
fanctuary, and had made his public entrance
into Tetuan the day before.
On the 19th of April the confuls arrived
in the evening at Tetuan, where, upon en
tering the gates, they were met by a meffen,
ger, whp informed them that the emperor
would give them audience immediately whilft

460 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
whilft upon their horfes ; upon which their
baggage was all fent away, and the confuls
all ranged themfelves in a regular form. Af
ter waiting, however, a fliort time, another
meffenger came to acquaint them, that the
emperor would fee them the next day. On
the following day, at twelve o'clock at
noon, the confuls were fent for to the em-
perer's camp, where they found the fovereign
on horfeback, in a very rich Turkifh drefs,
and his horfe ornamented with Turkifh
furniture. After having afked their refpedlive names
and titles, the emperor told the confuls he
was at peace with the Englifh and Ragousi,
but at war With all the other nations ; whofe
confuls he allowed only four months to re
tire from his dominions with their property,
and ordered them to fend him back every
thing which belonged to his fubjedts. On
the 2 2d of April, the confuls had their fecond
audience, at which each of them, brought
their feparate prefents.
The emperor now told them, he would
remain at peace with all their nations on the
fame footing as before, requiring of the
Spaniards only an ambafiador within four
months.

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, -We. 461
months. At this audience he promifed the
confuls letters to their refpedlive courts, ex-
preffive of the fame fentiments ; and affured
them, that the bafhaw at Tangier fhould
make them out, in terms moft agreeable to
the confuls. The fucceeding day the confuls
received orders to return to Tangier, at
which place the emperor was to deliver to
them the papers he had promifed.
On the 25th of the fame month, the em
peror arrived at Tangier, and the day fol
lowing was waited upon by all the confuls,
to congratulate him on his fafe arrival. The
emperor continued at Tangier till the
29 th, during which time he gave private au
diences to thofe confuls who afked them. He
was every day fully employed by people
who came from the different provinces to
pay their homage to him. Thefe were fup
pofed to amount to no lefs than twenty
thoufand. The bafhaw of Tangier, who
had the commiffion to write out the letters-
which the confuls were to fend home to their
refpedlive courts, behaved in the moft arbi
trary and infolent manner towards thofe
gentlemen. He demanded of fome no lefs
than two thoufand, of others fifteen hundred dollars*

462 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc
dollars, for the trouble he had taken, by in
terfering in their favour with the new fo
vereign ; at the fame time pofitively refilling
to make out or deliver the letters till they
had either paid the fum he exacted, or given
him fecurity for it.
After the confuls had endeavoured to fa-
tisfy the bafhaw in the beft manner they were
able, they at laft did not receive the letters
till the day after the emperor's departure
from Tangier, when they were brought
to them by the bafhaw's fecretary, and
another of his attendants, who not only de
manded a prefent for themfelves, but alfo
obliged them to pay an exorbitant price for,
the feal on each paper, which the bafhaw
pretended he had paid to the keeper of the
feals. The emperor arrived on the I oth of May
at Me qu inez, whence, after fome little
ftay, he went to Fez, and there kept the
feaft of the Ramadam. About this period,
in confequence of the emperor's not having
appeared in public for feveral days, a falfe
report was circulated, that he had been kijlei
by his brother Muley Hasem, who had
juft before arrived at Fez from Morocco.
3 Having

A tou;r TO MOROCCO, Wc. 463
Having condudted the emperor to Me-
quinez, it will be only neceffary to take
a fhort general view of his fubfequent con
duct, during the fhort time that elapfed be
tween his acceffion to the throne, and ar
rival at that city ; and thence go on to thofe
circumftances which led to the caufe of his
death. After the caprice, pufillanimity,and
avarice which had diftinguifhed the reign
of his predeceffor, Muley Yazid ap
peared to poffefs many qualities well calcu
lated to render him a very popular prince
in the eyes of the Moors. To a tall, ele
gant, and majeftic perfon, were united a hand
fome and expreffive countenance, which,
with a fpecious and perfuafive addrefs, a ge
nerous and difinterefted but determined
conduct, a great activity of body, and an
uncommon agility in horfemanfhip, were
requifites which were certain of impreffing
on the minds of his fubjedts a very
favourable opinion of their new fovereign;
and it is certain that Muley Yazid
fucceeded to the throne by the voluntary
choice of the majority of the people.
Happy it had been, if he had pofieffed
fufficient virtue or policy to have pre-.
ferved this good opinion which they had
formed,

464 A TOUR TO. MOROCCO, Wc
formed, but his ungovernable propenfity to
cruelty and drunkennefs, whieh he had' art
fully concealed in his minority, he had not
refolution fufficient to command when he
fircceeded to the throne ; and in the whole
hiftory of Morocco, we do not meet with
a tyrant who exercifed greater barbarities
than this monfter was guilty of.
His firft ftep after leavingthe fanctuary*
was to repair to Tetuan, where he imme
diately ordered a general plunder of ther
Jews to be put in execution by his black
troops, in confequence of an infult he had
received from that people upon a former
occafion. In purfuance of this edidl, their
houfes were inftantly ranfacked, the furni
ture which could not be carried off was de
ftroyed and thrown into the ftreets, fome of'
the owners were put to death, and others
were feverely beaten, and the perfons of their
wives and daughters violated by the out
rageous foldiery, who indifcriminately ftrip
ped them even of their cloaths, and turned
them naked into the ftreets. It is not pof
fible to paint in juft colours, the diftrefs and
hardfhip that unfortunate race experienced'
for feveral days, till a conclufion- was put to '
4 their

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. 465
their perfecutions by an order from the
emperor, who, in confequence of a pardon
to the Jews, threatened death to every per
fon who fhould in any degree further moleft
them. There were two perfons of this nation, of
fome confequence, whom Muley Yazid
marked out as particular objects of his re
venge. The firft was a Jew, who, in the
character of Spanifh vice conful, had
Committed fome act during the reign of
6idi Mahomet, which the new emperor
confidered as having been inimical to his
interefts. For this real or imaginary crime,
the culprit was fufpended by a cord paffed
through the tendons ofthe lower part of the
legs, with his head downwards ; in which fi
tuation, without any fuftenance, he conti
nued alive for near four days, when the em
peror ocdered his head to be taken off, by way
of relieving him from his mifery. The
other perfon was Jacob Attal, who in
a former part pf the work has already been
noticed as the favourite of Sidi Maho
met. There is great reafon to believe
that this young man, who poffeffed confide-?
rable abilities, was aceeffary to his own un
happy fate, by his too bufy interference in
H h politics,

.466 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc.
politics, which occafioned him many ene
mies at court, who were now glad of feizing
the opportunity of gratifying their revenge,
by perfuading the emperor that he was one
of thofe who, in the court of Sidi Maho
met, had been particularly inimical to him.
Attal, confcious of his danger, put him-
\felf under the pro tedlion ofthe Englifh con
ful, with an intention of accompanying that
gentleman to Tetuan, in hopes that a con?.
fiderable prefent of money, might induce the
emperor to treat him. with fome lenity*
Unfortunately, before this plan could be put
in execution, an order > for feizing Attal
met .the party on the road, upon which the
unfortunate Tew was forced off his mule,
ftripped of his drefs, and in an old Moorifh
frock and wTith a cord about his neck, was
driven on foot with whips to Tetuan.
Upon his arrival, he was immediately con
ducted to the emperor, who ordered both
his hands, to be cut off, in which ftate he
continued three days in the greateft mifery,
and then be was decapitated.
Thefe £.re by no means the only inftances
of- cruelty that were exercifed upon the
Tews. Thofe of moft of the towns of the
empire!

A TOUR TO MOROCCO,^.- 46"/
empire, were either plundered or obliged to
pay the emperor a very heavy fine; and' at'
Mi? qu Inez, and fome other places, fe'vefal
Wereput to cruel deaths, and their wives and
daughters left to the mercy of the black
troops, who treated them with the greateft
indecencies. A third dbjedt of the emperoris perfonal
revenge was Alcaide Abbas, his father's
black general : with refpedt to this officer, the
emperor had two motives for punifhing him.
In the firft place, he was tlie commander of
that very army v/hich was intended for his
own deftrudtion ; and, in the fecorid, upon
his father's deceafe, -inftead of furrendering
the arrhy to Muley Yazid, he withdrew
it to the Southward, and, it was fuppofed,
with an intention of fupporting Muley
Slemma,' NofVifhftanding, however, this conduct
on'thepart of Abbas, the emperor certainly
would not have put fiirh to death, had it
not been at the particular, requeft of his
black army, whom at that time he did not
wifh to offend. Abbas, fully confcious
how much he was difliked by his troops,
attempted to make his efcape to a fandtuary
H h z upon

468 . A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc,
upon a very fwift horfe ; but his horfi?
falling, he was unluckily feized, and was
immediately carried before the emperor,
with very heavy charges on the part of his
foldiers. After a hearing of the charges,
the emperor fignified to the culprit that he
might yet partake of his royal mercy, pro
vided he would confine himfelf for two
months to the fanctuary of Muley Absu>
lem. For this purpofe he fet off; but
he was again feized by the foldiers, who
brought him back to the emperor with ftill
heavier charges ; and the ernperor, finding
that the foldiers were determined on his
deftrudtion, with his own hands, by one
blow of his fabre, divided his head in two^
and he immediately expired.
Abbas was the beft officer in the em
peror's fervice, and never manifefted the
flighteft token of timidity, or cpndefcended
to afk his life ; on the contrary, when the
emperpr lifted up his fabre, fie in a ftern
and undaunted manner looked his fovereign
in the face, and died with the countenance
and. the tranquillity pf a hero. As his body
had not received the emperor's pardon, it
remained on the ground unburied, to the
great

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 469
great nuifance of every perfon who paffed
that way. For fuch is the barbarous cuf
tom of the country, that when a man is put
to death by the emperor, or his order, his
body cannot be buried without its firft
receiving a formal pardon from the em
peror. Muley Yazid, long before his father's
death, had threatened the life ofthe Effendi.
He had been a principal agent in exciting
the father's hatred and prejudice againft his
fon. A further caufe of the emperor's re-
fcntment, Wa9 the great impofition pradtifed
on his father by the Effendi refpedting the
corn bufinefs with the Spaniards, by which
he had amaffed a very confiderable fum of
money in bribes and prefents^
Upon the emperor's death, the Effendi
took refuge in a fanctuary, and, had he been
wife, he would not have ventured abroad p
but Muley Yazid having ppfitively pro
mifed to pardon him, he was induced to
forfake his afylum. For fome time the
new fovereign diffembled his intentions,
and waited for a favourable opportunity to
feize him. As foon as he was taken, he
©ffered the emperor two hundred thoufand
H h 3 dollars

470. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wc. .
dollars to fpare his life; but the monarch
haughtily replied, that he wanted not
his money, and that he would not conde -
fcend to accept a bribe from ¦ a traitor.
He then qrdered his two hands to be
cut off, in which ftate he fuffered him to
remain for fome days, and then commanded
him to be beheaded. One of his hands
was placed on the walls of Fez, and the
other fent down to Tangier, and ordered
to be nailed on the door ofthe Spanifh con
ful, to convince that nation in what man
ner the emperor was difpofed to treat all
the friends of the Spaniards.
The emperor always, indeed, manifef-
ted .an exclufive preference to the Engliffi
beyond all European nations, and on many
other occafions, evinced an inveterate dif
like to the Spaniards. From the moment
of his acceffion to the throne, he expreffed
a difappropation of the Spanifh meafures,
during his father's reign; and threatened
to revenge himfelf very fhortly on . that
country. The Spaniards, • who have more
reafon to. whh for peace, from, their ports
being fo contiguous to the emperor's, as,
well as from the immenfe fupplies which
* tfiey

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 471
they procure from his dominions, than any
other nation, endeavoured to ward off the
threatening ftorm, by very large and re
peated prefents of money, and ©ther valu
able articles, to the emperor and his minif
ters. 'But this plan, which had been fo fuc
cefsful in the. former reign, effected nothing
in the prefent. Muley Yazid had, from
'his youth, been difregardful of money ; and,
indeed, in his contempt of wealth, had even
exceeded the boundaries of prudence; he had.
alfo conceived a very ftfohg and very early
predilection in favour of the Englifh. Not-
withftanding thefe circumftances, the Spa
niards ftill continued to entertain hopes of
fuccefs in their negcciations, till they heard
ofthe death ofthe Effendi, their great friend
and patron, and of the infult offered to their
court, by the Effendi's hand being nailed on
their eonful's door. Such an affront was
fufficient to convince them, that war was
inevitable ; but they efteemed it moft pru
dent to get their conful, and friars, put of
the country, before they commenced hoftili-
ties : and a frigate for this purpofe was dif
patched to Tangier. When they arrived
there, they informed the governor, that they
' . had

4?2 A TOUR TO MOROCCO; We.
had on board a very valuable prefent for the*
emperor, and defired that he would fend
proper perfons to receive it. The conful-
and friars took this opportunity of coming
on board ; and the frigate, having fent off
the Moors with the prefent, fet fail, and the
next day captured two Moorifh gallies off
Larache, in fight of the emperor, who
was walking upon his terrace at the very
moment. The valuable prefent which they
carried, proved nothing more than huge
bales of rags.
Thefe repeated infults were not calculated
to conciliate the emperor ; he confequently
made immediate preparations for the attack
on Ceuta, and foon after befieged it. But'
this garrifon proved too ftrongly fortified,
both by nature and art, to render it poffible
for the Moors to be fuccefsful, unlefs affifted
by a naval power ; and the emperor, after a
fruitlefs fiege for feveral months with a very
confiderable army, was obliged to retire.
The infults offered by the Spaniards in the
deception they employed to procure the re-
leafe of their conful and friars, and after
wards in the capture of the two Moorifh
veffels, made fuch an imprefiion on tbe em'-'
peror,

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Wt. 473
neror, that he threatened to put the town of
Tangier to the fword, for fo flagrant a piece
of neglect. In their juftification, the peo
ple informed their fovereign, that the error
muft be imputed to the governor, who
alone was refppnfible for every circumftance
which happened within his diftrict. This
officer, who at the rifk of his life had fup-
ported Muley Yazid in his minority with
money, and afterwards placed him on the
throne, for which the emperor took a
folemn oath that he would never do him or
his family the fmalleft injury, was now
thrown into irons, and immediately ordered
into the royal prefence. The unfortunate
man, forefeeing his fate, requefted the em
peror would do juftice to God and Ma
homet; to which he replied, I mean to do
juftice to my country by punifhing a traitor;
and he immediately difpatched him with a
mufquet. The numberlefs cruelties which were per
petrated by Muley Yazid, I have not
fufficient authentic information to authorife
me to detail, nor am I fufficiently informed
pf the actual circumftances pf his reign, to be
pble to offer to the public a perfect narrative of
9 '*'

474 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
it. Thus far I can venture to affert with
tru'trr, that he in a fhprt. time devoted him
felf entirely to the drinking of ftrong liqueurs,
which for the greateft part of the ' day ren
dered him unfit for bufinefs, and excited him
to the moft favage cruelties ; and, what w;as
moft diftreffing, where they were the leaf!
deferved : with fome he amufed himfelf by
galloping up with great violence and fpear-
ing them, others were buried' alive, while a
third party were cut to pieces with fwords.
It is ajmoft unneceflary to add, that the
negledt of public bufinefs, and the total in-
fecurity of their perfons from the tyranny of
the monarch, deftroyed in time entirely the
confidence which the people had at firft
placed in their fovereign, and encouraged
Muley Hasem, towards the latter part of
the year 1 791, to put himfelf at the head
of an army in oppofition to his brother.
This prince, who poffeffed moft of the bad,
without any of the good qualities of the
emperor, and who commanded againft him
during the life of Sibi Mahomet, was
further induced to ftps meafure in confe
quence of a. fupply of ftores, and confiderable
fums of money, which he received from the
Spaniards,

*A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 475
Spaniards, who had great reafon to ; wifh
a change of government; The emperor,
who ftill had many friends, foon collected a
confiderable army, with' which he marched
to the Southward to dillodge his brother,
who had taken poffeffion of the city of
Morocco and its vicinity. Muley Hasem,
upon this occafion, difcovered his ufual pufil-
lanimity, by refigning his command to one of
his generals, who however was an active and
enterprizing officer: When the two armies
met, a dreadful engagement enfued.' The
emperor difcovered an uncommon fhare of
perfonal courage, intermixing with the
enemy and fighting like a private foldier.
After a fevere conflict, he totally routed the
enemy and took pofieflion of MoR'croco,
but not before he had received feveral
wounds, which in a few days proved mortal.
During the fhort period of life which remain
ed to him, his whole attention was occupied in
punifhing the people of Morocco for their
attachment to his brother. Between; two
and three thoufand of the inhabitants, with
out regard to age or fex, were maffacred in
cold blood ; while fome of them he ordered
to be nailed alive to the walls, he tore outthe

476 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We.
the eyes of others with his own fpurs, and,
in his dying moments, paffed an edict
that fixty people of Mogodore, among
whom were moft ofthe European merchants,
Ihould be decapitated, for the affiftance
which he fuppofed they had afforded to his
brother. Fortunately for them, he died
icon after iffuing the order, and it was not
forwarded, Muley Yazid, who only reigned two
years, and at his death was in the forty-third
year of his age, was poffeffed of many quali
ties, which, if they had been properly im
proved, would have rendered him a very
ufeful monarch in a country where the fo
vereign poffeffes fo^rnuch influence over hi6
fubjedts : naturally quick pf ^pprehenfion,
determined in his conduct, and not eafily
biaffed by the perfualion of others, poffeffing
a great fhare of perfonal courage, and a
total contempt of wealth; had thefe endow
ments of nature been meliorated by an en
lightened education, they might have en
abled him to have accomplished fome refor
mation in his fubjedts, and perhaps led the
way to fome further improvement. Unfor
tunately, this prince top eafily gave way to

A TOUR TO MOROCCO, We. 477
the dictates of his paffibns, which foon ren
dered him totally incapable of carrying on
even the common bufinefs of government,
and rendered him as great a monfter as ever
filled the throne of Morocco.
Since the death of Muley Yazid the
country has been in a very unfettled ftate,
the people being now rendered extremely
cautious how they elect another monarch.
To the Southward of Sallee, Muley
Hasem, from poffefling the army, is obeyed
as the fovereign; while on the Northern
fide ofthe empire, Muley Solyman, who
from his exemplary conduct has gained the
efteem of the people, is confidered as em
peror. It now refts for time to determine
which is to be the fuccefsful candidate.

FINIS.

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C O N, T E NT

Serm. I. 34 Ep. St. John,
4th ver. / have no greater joy
tkan to hear that my efyildreji -.
nvalk in /ruth.
Serm. II. PRoy. iii. 17. Her
- ivays are =ways ofpleafantnejs.
Serm. III. The fame text.
Sei-m. IV. Eccles. xii. 1.
Remember nova thy Creator in
the days of thy youth, while
the evil days come not, -nor
the years dravj nigh, veben
thou Jhalt fay, I have, no
pleafure in them.
Serm. V. 1 Thess. v. 17. Pray
iu.it bout ceofing ,"\.
§erm.Vl. Coloss. iii. ic- —
latter part. And be ye thank-
¦ ful.
§erm. VII. Luke xi. z. When

xx. 13. 15.

ye pray, fay, Our Father,
.vuhieh art in heaven.
Serm. VIII. Exodus xx. 8,
Remember the Sabbath-day,
to keep it holy .
Serm. IX. Exodus
Thou Jhalt not kill.
Serm. X. Exodus
Thou Jhalt not fteal.
Serm. XT. Matthew vii. 21.
Not every one that, faitb unto
me, Lord, Lord, fhall enter inta
the kingdom of heaven: but he
that ^peth the naill of my
Father vjhicb is in heaven.
Serm. XII. Galat. vi. 7 — :
former part. Benot deceived j
God is not mocked.
Serm. XIII. Philip, i. 27.
Let your converfation be as it

BOOKS LATELY PUBLISHED.

the gofpel of
Romans xii. ii
part. Not flothful

ii becometh
Chrift.
Serm. XIV.
—former
in bufinefs.
Serm. XV. Ephesians vi. 7
and 8. With good-will doing
fervice, as to the Lord, and
not to men .¦ knowing that
•whatfoever good any man
doeth, the fame fhall he re
ceive of the Lord, whether he
be bond or free.
Serm. XVI. Titus ii. 9 and
IO. Exhort fervants to be
tbedient unto their own maf
ters? and to pleafe them well
in all things : not anfwering
again ; not purloining ; bat
Jhewing all good fidelity ; that
they may adorn tbe doBrine of
God our Saviour in all things.
Serm. XVII. Titus ii. . 10—
latter part. — That tbey may
adorn the dotlrine of God our
Saviour in all things.
Serm. XVIII. iTiit. vi. 6.
Godlinefs with contentment is
great gain.

Serm. XIX. Rev. xxi. 8—
latter part. All liars
fhall have iheir part in the
lake which burneth with fire
and brimftone : which is the
fecond death.
Serm. XX. Exodus xxiii. 2 —
former part. Thou Jhalt not
follow a multitude to do evil.
Serm. XXI. Hebrews xiii.
16. To do good, and to com
municate, forget not : for
•with fuch facrifices God is
•well pleafed.
Serm. XXII. Psalm xxxix. I.
I faid, 1 will take heed to my
ways, that I fin not with my
tongue.
Serm. XXIII. Psalm cxix. 6.
Then fhall I not be ajhamed,
hxihen 1 have refpeB unto all
thy commandments.
Serm. XXIV. To the Parents.
Ephes. vi. 4. Bring them
up in the nurture and admo
nition of the Lord.
Serm, XXV. To the Parents,
and others. 1 Cor. v. 8.
Let us keep thefeafl.