YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY LETTERS FROM ITALY, ly y J^^^ BETWEEN THE v'^V^S'''''''" '^ YEARS 1792 AND 1798, / ' {i. i^€> /i^^'<^A^ CONTAINING Xyji^C^CC^CC-C^ A VIEW OF THE REVOLUTIONS IN THAT COUNTRY, Y/^^l?^ FROM THE r CAPTURE OF NICE BY THE FRENCH REPUBLIC TO THE EXPULSION OF PIUS VI. FROM THE ECCLESIASTICAL STATE: Likewife pointing out The matchlefs Works of Art which ftill embellilh Pifa, Flo rence, Siena, Rome, Naples, Bologna, Venice, &c. ¦WITH INSTRUCTIONS For the Ufe of Invalids and FamUies TVho may not choofe to incur the Expence attendant Bf bn travelling with a Courier. BY MARIANA STARVE, Author of the Widow of Malabar, the Tournament, &c. '^Si^'m IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. Xon&on: Printed by T. Gillet, Saliibury-Square, Fleet-Street, FOR R, PHILLIPS, NO. 71, ST. PAUL'S CHURCH-YART). 1800. YALE CONTENTS. VOL. II. LETTER XVII. WAZZAdi S. Pietro— Vaticano—Bafilicadi S. Pietro — Morale Manufaftory Churches— PalaCeis Villas — Chiefa di S. Agnefe fuore di Porta Pia Villas — Sculpture, &c. to be feen at the houfes of Artifts — Hofpitals— Antiquities and Churches with out the City Gates. LETTER XVIII. Excurfion to Tivoli — S. Cofimato — Horace's Villa — the Sabine farm — and the Villa Adriana. Excurfion to Paleftrina. Excurfion to Grotto Ferrata and Fraf- cati — charafter of the RohianS — Hotels at Rome. LETTER XIX. Account of the country between Rome and Naples. LETTER XX. Naples— Quay^ Villa Reale — Palazzo Reale-^Piazza Caftel-Nuovo — Churches — Caftello del I'Uovo— Churches— Caftello di S. Elmo— Churches— Palazzo di Capo di Monte — Univerfity — Churches and Pa laces — Cathedral Vicaria— Ofpedale di Sa. Maria Annunziata— Chiefa di Sa. Maria del Carmine- Porcelain Manufafture- Palazzo Berrio— Theatres — Climate— Water— Population— Inns — Charafter of the Neapolitans. Vol. II. a LETTER IV CONTENTS. LETTER XXI. Environs of Naples— defcription of Pompeii— Heretic laneum— Mufeum of Portici— Statues of M. N. Bal bus, jun. and his father— Royal Palace— Gardens — Excurfion to Vefuvius — defcription of the Earth quake which overthrew Refina and Torre-del-Greco — prefent ftate of thofe Towns— fhower of ftones at Pienza— Excurfion to Pceftum — defcription of the ruins there. LETTER XXII. Excurfion to Baia — Nifida — Solfaterra — Temple of Jupiter Ser-Apis — Mifenum — Grotto — Tragonare — Fifli-ponds of Lucullus — Theatre of Mifenum — Stygian Lake — Elyfian-fields — Sepulchral monu ments — Pifcina merabile — Cento Camprele — Bauli — Villa of Agrippina — Temples of Venus, Mercury, and Diana Ba'iana — Nero's baths — Lucrine Lake — Monte-Nuovo — Lake Avernus. Excurfion to Cuma, &c. — Amphitheatre. — fepulchral monuments of Pu- teoli — Villa di Cicerone — Arco- Felice — Streets and Caftle of Cuma — fpot where Dasdalus alighted after his flight from Crete. Excurfion to the Lake d'Ag,- mano — Grotto del Cane — Pifciarelli— Aftroni — Vir gil's tomb. Excurfion to Caferta — the Aquedufts — Palace — Manufadures at S. Leuce — Englifli Gar den — Ancient Capua. Excurfion to the Ifland of Proceda — defcription of that Ifland and its Inhabi tants. Excurfion to Ifchia. Excurfion to Capri — defcription of that Ifland. Excurfion to Sorrento— defcription of that Town— Plain of Sorrento— S. Ag- nello— Meta— Mafla. LETTER CONTENTS. V LETTER XXIII. Journey fr.om Rome through Penu'i.i to Florence Auguftus's Bridge— Cafcade of Teinl — Lake of Pe rugia — ground upon which the battle of Thrafyme- nus was fought — Hannibal's route into Italy. LETTER XXIV. Journey from Florence to Drefden — defcription of Bo logna — works of art moft worth notice — Venice — Archltefture — -Arfenal — Paintings — Sculpture — Li brary — beft Inn — Water — Cuftom-houfe at Ponteba — German Villages — Inns — Provifions — Peafantry and Towns- of Carinthia — Vienna — Inns — Public Edifices — Royal Gallery of Piftures at the Belve dere — Treafury — Cabinets of Medals and Natural Hiftory — Cameo of Alexander — Gallery of Piftures in the Lichtenftein Palace — Porcelain Manufafture — Prater L'au-Garden — Schoenbruii — National Difli— Theatres — Fireworks — Population — Diftance from Florence to Vienna — Cities of Moravia — drefs ofthe Peafants — Prague — Bridge— Population — Ob jefts beft worth notice — Inns — drefs of the Saxon Peafants — they fometimes underftand Englifli. LETTER XXV. Drefden— Population-Architefture — Bridge — Reli gion— Charafter of the People — Inns— Pifture-Gal- lery— Jewel-Office— Cabinet of Antiques— Eleftor's Library — Porcelain exhibited in the Palace of Count Bviihl — Cabinet of Natural Hiftory — Antique Ar- nioury— Colleftion of Drefden China — Theatres— Diftance from Vienna to Drefden— Diftance from a 2 Drefdei} VI CONTENTS. Drefden to Hamburg Voyage down the Elbe to- ¦Hamburg — Population of Hamburg — defcription of the City — Inns — Extraordinary inftance ofthe faga city of a Stork — Voyage from Hamburg to Cuxha- ven — Expences of the Packet from Cuxhaven to Yar mouth — Ladies recommended to take the Cabin to themfelves — Harwich-Packets the beft fea-boats — Hotel at Cuxhaven — Climates of the Continent--.- Nice Pifa — Rome — Naples — Particular defcrip tion of the climate of Pifa— that of Rome— and Flo rence — and Sorrento. Things neceflary for an inva lid to be pi-ovided with on leaving England — Price of Poft-Horfes in Tufcany — Current Coins of Tufcany — Its V/eighfs and Meafures — Prices at Inns, &c. &c. — Leghorn — Price of Carriages — Boats — Box at the Theatre — entrance — ^Things worth purchafing — Beft Wine-Merchant, Grocer, &c. — Surgeon — Pro vifions — Wine and Oil Meafure — Wood — Price for going in the public Timoneli to Pifa — Paffage-Boais to Pifa — Environs of Leghorn unwholefome — Ar rival and departure of Letter-Couriers — Pifa — Beft Lodging-Houfes — Hire of Linen — of a Coach per Month — of a Saddle-Horfe — of a Coach-Houfe — Expence of keeping Horfes at Livery — Wages of a Coachman— Sedan Chairs — Box at the Theatre — Entrance — Price of Dinner from a Traiteur — of Ereakfaft at a Coffee-Houfe — of Dinner at the Houfe of a Traiteur — Servants' Wages — Beft mode of ob taining Fire-Wood — different kinds of Fire- Wood Huflcs of Olives recommended for Fuel — Mats — Provifions— Oil and Wine — Price of Horfes to Leg horn and back again in one day — Mufic, Drawing,, and CONTENTS. Vll and Language Mjftcrs— Phyfician-— Surgeons — Dentift— Banking'Hou fe— Stay-Maker— Price of Shoes— Prices ulually charged by Taylors and Man tua - Makers — Arrival and departure of Letter- Couriers— Franking of Letters— Price for going in a Voiturin's public Carriage from Pifa to Florence —Travellers fliould not have their baggage plumbed at Pifa — Florence — Lodging-Houfes— Price per head for breakfaft at a Coffee-Houfe— for dinner at a Traiteur's—Vi'icc of Carriages by the Month, &c. — beft mode of hiring them— beft Voiturins— Sedan Chairs— -Provifion — Wine-— Medicines — Molini's Shop — Reftori's Shop---Meggit, Wine-Merchant— - Florence Silks -~ Shoes — Shoe-Makers— Englifli Taylor — Florentine— Taylors Milliner Straw Hats Phyfician Surgeon-Dentifts Portable Baths — Notary-Public— Bankers-— Language-Mafter —Drawing and Mufic-Mafters— -Hire of a Piano- Forte— Boxes at the Theatres— Entrance— Arrival and Departure of Letter-Couriers-— Franking of Letters— Country-Houfes near Florence— -Common Price paid for waffling without ironing in Tufcany — Price of Poft-Horfes in the Roman State— Rome —Money Weights and Meafures Lodging- Houfes — Traileurs-— Trice of Breakfaft at a Coffee- Houfe Price of Dinner at the Houfe of a Traitfur— Hire of a Carriage by the Day, &c. — Wages of a Vaht-de-Place — of other Servants — Wood — Provifions — Wine — wax and tallow candles — Oil — Shops of Sarmlento and Bafliani — Medicines . — commodities beft worth purchafing — Price of flioes. ^nd boots — Charge made by Taylors and Mantua makers — Shops — Beft fhoe-makers — Beft Mantua- maker vm CONTENTS. maker— Seller of neck-laces, &c. — Writing-paper — Cameo-Workers — Mofaic-Worker— Print-Sellers — Sulphurs — Bankers — Surgeon and Apothecary— Dentlfts — Theatres — Arrival and departure of Let ter-Couriers fince the Revolution— Beft way of con veying baggage from Rome to Naples— Beft Voitu- xln — Price of waflilng — Price of Poft-Horfes in the Neapolitan-ftate— -Paflports, &c. — ^^Money of Na ples— Meafur.es and weights — Lodglng-houfes at Naples— -Expenfes at Hotels — hire of a Carriage by the month, &c. — hire of a boat by the day — wages of a Valet-de-Place, of other Servants— Lodgings in Fouria, &c.— Price of a carriage per month when hired by a Neapolitan— Price of dinner from a Traiteur — Provifions— Wines — Tea, fugar, coiFee, cheefe, oil — fire-wood— wax and tallow candles — oil — writing paper— -Circulating Library — Phyfi- clans-— Bleeders— Medicines — Silks— Ribbands — Silk Stockings — Manufaftures of Tortolfe Shell and Mufical Strings — Theatres, their prices. Boxes, &c. — Arrival and departure of Letter Couriers — Wafh- ing, &c. Sorrento. Lodglng-Houfes-^Provlfions — Ice — Boats to Naples— Phyfician— Beft paflage to or from Na ples. Price of Poft Horfes In Piedmont and Savoy. Eftabliffied prices for the paflage of Mount Cenls. Price of Poft Horfes in Germany — Beft Money to take from Tufcany into Germany — Relative value of various Coin. Venice. Price of Apartments— of Dinner — of a Gondola — Beft articles to purchafe at Venice — De parture of Letter Couriers. Money CONTENTS, ix GERMANY. Money of the Imperial Territories — Weights and Meafures at Vienna — White Bull Inn — Expences per day — Hackney Coaches, and Sedan Chairs — Phyfi- cians — Shops — Cheap Articles — Prices of the Opera — Mode of Travelling from Vienna — Arrival and Departure of Letter Couriers— Diligences — Prague — Dresden— Money of Saxony Weights and Meafures — Price of Apartmeiits at Hotels— Dinners, "Carriages, Wine, &c Commodities Letter Couriers Hamburg — Money— Weights— Dm- ners — Wines — Commodities. Page Routes, &c. t 363 Route, en Voiturier, from Pifa to Mafia, and Carrara, with an Englifli Poft Chaife and four Horfes 363 From Pifa to Modena, by the new road — 365 From Pifa through Piftoja to Florence ¦ 367 Route, going poft, from Florence through Perugia to Rome 370 Route, going en Voiturier, from Rome to Florence, through Perugia 372 Expences of the fame ¦ • 374 Route, going poft, from Florence, through Siena, to Rome . 377 The fame, en Voiturier 379 The common form in which agreements are drawn up with Voiturlns —— 3^5 Route, going poft, from Rome to Naples 388 The fame, en Voiturier 392 Route, going poft, from Naples to Rome -' — ¦ 393 Route, Je CONTENTSi Route, going poft, from Switzerlarid to Tutin sOS Route, going poft, from Florence, through Bologna Venice, Prague and Drefden, to Hamburgh 39^ Route, going poft, from Florence, through Man- dova, to Cuxhaven 402 NOTES. Referring to Villa Riccardi de' Medici 406 Story fiiewing the grateful and delicate turn of mind poffeffed by the Tufcan Peafantry 407 Route, going poft, from Turin, over the Maritime Alps to Nice ¦¦ 409 ERRATA OF VOL. II. Page 3, line jo, for Perugim read Peingho. 6 — 2, for Moratti rcod Mani:ti. 14 — I9j for adorned read itdcied. 42 in Jinc 1 1 of Note, for rofa read rofa. 44 — 19, for Puzzui/a read Piz^.wJu 49 — I9> 't>r Sepoleio read Se[>o/.-r.o. 70 — ¦ 21, for Fouzo/o read P^-zzurJi. 92. — 14, for equeduft read itqueddci. $3 — J I, iox Pr'jceletesiCttirele. **S in line 5 of Note, for Suphoniar read S.ipho near. in line 7, for Hj,Ln read Hylai. I"^ in line 7 of Note, for BncchLiiUe read Bacchante. 130 — 17> for '"He read mu!e. 146 — 13, for frofcunhm TQsd Profcenium, 149 — 18, for coxytus read cocytus. 167 — II, for o cheruBims read cheruilm. The Binder is requefted to place the Map facing page 33, of Vol. I. LETTERS FROM ITALY, BETWEEN THE YEARS 1792 AND 1798. LETTER xvn. Rome, January 1798. FIFTH DAY. L piAZZA di S. Pietro. The colonades of this magnificent approach to St. Peter's were defigned by Bernini, at the command of Alexander VIL One of the Fountains was eredled by Innocent VIII ; the other by Clement X ; and the Obelilk •by Sixtus V. This Obelifk, the only one which has been preferved entire, is made of red granite, and was tranfported from Heliopolis to Rome, by order of Caligula ; and afterwards placed, by Nero, in his Vol. II. B Circus, 2 LETT£iRS FROM iTALf, Circus, now the Piazza di S. Pietro^^it mc^furfes 124 feet ffoih the grbuhd tb the< top of the crofs. JI. Vaticano. Many parts of this im menfe building are extremely damp and cold ; the Mufeum is efpecially fo ; and Perfons who go thither previous to feeing other parts of the Pdlacie^ Jhould fend a Servant to get the door opened before they quit their carriage ; otherwife they rifk ftanding a confiderable time in an eddy of . cold damp air. The Vatican is faid te -have been begun by Conftantine the Great, and has received augmentations from almofl every fuceeedlng Sovereign, infomuch that its prefent circumference is computed at near 70,000 feet. The moft convenient way of feeing it is as follows :— ^ift. Cappella Siftina. Knock at the firft door on the left-hand as you mount the ftairs of the Va- trcan> and you will find the Cufhdi of the Chapels. The Cappella Siftina contains fpme ;. :^ of JBETWEEN 1792 AND 1 798. 3 t)F the fineft frefcos in the world, namely, The laft Judgement, by 3B\ionarroti, iJnme- diately behind the altar ; and, on the ceil ing, God dividing the light from the dark nefs, together with the Prophets and Sibyls> fbipehdous works by the fame great Maf ter ! ! ! ! ! Oh the walls are paintings by old Artifts, the moft celebrated of which is otil: Saviour delivering the keys to St. Peter, by Pietto Perugins. This Chapel is warm, hut rather dark. Here many functions of the Holy Week ufed to be performed. — 2d. Halt leading 'to the Cappella^Paolifia. Frefcos, by Vafari, &c. — 3d. Cdppella-Paolina. Middle pidlure on the right-hand fide as you enter, the crucifixion of St. Peter, by Buonar roti ! Other frefcos On the fides, by F. Zuc- cari. Middle picture bn the left-hand, the converflori of St. Paul, by Buonarroti ! Other frefcos on the fides, by Lor'ehzino di Bologna. Ceiling by Vafari. This Chapel is dark, and rather cold. Give two pauls.-' — B 2 Here, 4 letter:^ from italy. Here, during the Holy Week> the body of our Saviour ufed to be reprefented lyin^ in the fepukhre. — 4th. Hall where the feet ofthe Poor were wafhed on Holy Thurfday, called, Sala Ducale. Beautiful arabefques on the ceiling, by Lorenzino di Bologna, and Raphaelin di Reggio. — Sth. In thefirft Loggia, or open Gallery, which is adorned with frefcos defigned by Raffaelle, and exe cuted by his Scholars, is a room on the left-hand, near the fountain, where there is a ceiling painted by Raffaelle, reprefenting the planets, figns of the zodiac, &c. ! ! !^— Gth. Second Loggia, or Gallery, painted af ter the defigns of Raffeelle by his Scholars. — 7th. Stanze di Raffaelle, adjoining to the Gallery. Firft room Conftantine's vic tory over Maxentius, defigned by Raffaelle, and executed, after his death, by Giulio Romano ! ! ! A figure of Juftice, and an other of Benignity, both in oil, by Raffaelle himfelf ! ! ! Conftantine's vifion, by Giulio Romano ! BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798, 5 Romano ! ! ! The fame Prince receiving baptifm, by Francefco Penni. The dona tion of Rome to Pope Silvefter, by Raffaelle del Colle. On the ceiling is the infide of a Pagan Temple converted into a Chriftian Church — the perfpedlive is particularly fine, the Author, T. Laureti Palermitain. — Second room — Heliodorus driven from theTemple — Leo I. ftopping the Army of Attila, by the aid of St. Peter and St. Paul — The miracle of Bolfena, and St. Peter delivered out of prifon, all by Raffaelle ! ! ! ! — Third rootn — The School of Athens, by Raffkelle ! ! ! !— Theology, by the fame ! ! — Parnaffus, by the fame ! ! — Jurifprudence, by the fame ! ! — Fourth room — The fire in the Borgo, extin guifhed by Leo IV.— Raffaelle ! ! !— The juftification of Leo III. before Charlemagne, and the vidory of Leo IV. over the Saracens, at Oftia, by Raffaelle's Scholars. — The co ronation of Charlemagne, by ditto. The lower part of thefe rooms are painted in B 3 chiaro- 6 LETTE^^ ??.QM ITA^^T* chianorjfc%ro,, by PoJidore Carayaiggiq, and retouched \y Carlo, Moratti. Tolerably warm, — -.Give three pauls. — 8,th. Ubrerai Vati-. cano, built by Sixtus Vr ^iWd r^ch in inari^ - fgripts., niedals, cameos, inta^lipSj Grecian vafes, antiques rel3.t;ve tp the prim.itiye Chriftians, &C. &g. Several of the manu- fcripts are embeliifhed. with rniniature paint ings by the Florentine School, and the celebrated Giulio <^laudip. — The Dante, now rempved, I beliey-e, to the Pari? Li brary, is adorned with exquifite paintings, begun by the Florentine School, ^rid finifhed by Giulio. Claudio, whofe continuatipn may eafily be known, by it's fuperiority tp the refl of the wprk. In the Vatican Library a,lfo are, or were, two other work^ of Giu lio Glaudip's, equally beautiful ; they cele brate the deeds of the famous Duke of Ur- bino. The cameo pf Ayguftus, which does,, or did, belong to this colledion, is reckoned the fineft in the world. Here alfo are a few pictures BETWEEN J7Q2 AND 17QS. J pidures of the Grecian Schpolj an original portrait of Charlemagne, iu ftucco, and 3k ceiling, faid to be the chef -d'ceuvre ot Mengs, which adorns a room hung round with pianufcripts written wppn the Papyrus. Giirfive pquls. — Qth. Miifto-Pio- Ckmeutino. An ancient Galley, in white marble — a lion in higlo — a Statue of Diana fhooting !— a faim in reffb antjco — two coloffal JunoSi one of which is particularly fine — a coloffal. Nerva^-ft coloffal buft of Juno — a magnir fieent porphyry bafon — a porphyry farco- phagus, reprefenting boys with grapes — a recumbent figure ofthe Nile in higio—r-.Vin an-? cient car— Egyptian Divinities, urns, &c. two Children boxipg, Give two or ihreepauk. The fitting up of thef? apartments is tjruly princely ; ^nd_, npw, that the fineft pieces pf fculpture are gone, the beauty of the co-s lunins, mofaic payeipents, &c. is, perhaps, the rnpfl ftriking feature of the Miifeo-Cle^ tuentino ! The Ciiftodi of the Mufeum fhews B 4 the 8 LETTERS FROM ITALY, the Pidure Gallery, which is, however, but little woyth feeing. SIXTH DAY. I. Baftlica di S. Pietro. In order to fee the whole of the Church, including the Sacrifty, Dome, &c. — it is neceffary to fet out at eight or nine in the morning, and fpend three or four hours in viewing this mafter-piece of modern geniug. The ground on which St. Peter's flands formerly made part of the Circus of Nero, where St. Peter was buried ; and Conftantine the Great ereded, over his remains, a vaft church, which, having ftood eleven centuries, and at length falling to decay, Nicholas V. began tP rebuild it, about the year 1450, after the plans of Rofellini and Alberti ; his fuc ceffors, however, difcontinued the work, till the reign of Paul II. under whom it went on. Julius II. who fucceeded Paul, chofe the famous Braiiiante as his Archited, and this BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 9 this Artift formed the defign of ereding a cupola in the centre of the edifice. After the death of Julius and Bramante, Leo X. entrufted the work to Raffaelle and other Artifb, on whofe demife Paul III. chofe Sangallo as his Archited, and, upon the death of this Artift, the laft-mentioned Pope committed the work to Buonarroti, who made a new defign for the cupola ; he likewife intended to have ereded a portico refembling that of the Pantheon, but death fruftrated his purpofe ; fucceeding Artifts, however, were" direded to go on with his cupola, which was completed in the reign of Sixtus V. Charles Maderne finifhed the other part of the Church in the reign of Paul V. and the prefent Pope built the Sacrifty. Buonarroti intended that St. Peter's fhould have been in the form of a Greek crofs, but Charles Maderne followed the plan of Bramante, and made a Latin one. In the year 1 094, this church was fuppofed to 10 LETTERS FROM ITALY, to have coft forty-feven millions of Roman crowns, and much more has fince be^n ex pended for the Mofaics, Sacrifty, &c.— ^ Dimenfions of St. Peters — Length of the niiddle aile from the entrance to the chair of St. Peter, 569 P-aris feet — breadth 85 — height 140 — breadth of each fide-aile, 20$ feet — length of the crofs-aile, 408 — :h eight of the haldacchino, 84 feet. Interior dia meter of the cupola, 130 feet-exterior ditto, 145 feet — .height frorn the pavement to the top of the lanthern, 385 feet. St. Peter s is always warm and always open^—. Give four pawls.* II. 'See the ^ofaic > Mamfadory, which is very near S. Peter's. * For a particular defcription of the fculpture, mofaics, &c. in St. Peter's, refer to Vafs Itinerary. — The mofaic, by Giotto, called La Nayicella, and the bajfo-rilicva, by Algardi, reprefenting Leo I. going to meet Attila, with St. Peter and St. Paul appearing in the air, are much admired ; fo is the Maufqleum of Paul III. by Guglielmo delja Porta. III. Chiefa BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 1,1 III. Chiefa c Convcnto dc P. P. Cappuccini in Piazza Barherint. Here is the Arch-. Angel Michael, b}- Guido, efteemed one of the fineft pidures in the world ! ! ! ! Here likewife is Saul receiving his fight, by Pietro di Cortona ! ! This church may be feen at all honrs by an application at the convent. The Piazza Barherini vvas anciently the Circus of Flora. SEVENTH DAY. - I. Chiefa di S. Ignazio, built by Cardinal Lodoyico Lodovifio, chiefly after the dpfigii ,pf Domenichino. This noble ftrudure is, embeliifhed with fine, antique marble co lumns, and contains a famous alto-rilievo, by Le Gros, reprefenting S. Luigi Gonzaga, whofe body is depofited here in a tomb in- crufted with lapis lazuli. Here Hkewife is the tomb of Gregory XV. by Le Gros. The ceiling of the nave and tribuna axe fine ly painted by Father Pozzi, and the former reprefents 12 LETTERS FROlVi ITALY, reprefents the apotheofis of St.Ignatius, from whofe head iflue rays which illumine the four quarters of the world. This church is tolerahly ivarm. II. Chiefa di S. Maria Sopra Minerva. This Church is built on the ruins of a Temple of Minerva, originally ereded by Pompey the Great, it contains a famous ftatue of our Saviour, by Buonarroti. III. Chiefa di S. S. Apoftoli. This fine Church was originally ereded by Conftan tine, and afterwards rebuilt by Cav. F. Fontana. The portico of the old edifice is ftill entire, and contains an antique haffb- rilievo of an eagle. The ceiling of the nave of the modern edifice was painted by Bacic- cio, and reprefents the triumph of St. Fran cefco. The fall of the Angels neariy over the high-altar is beautiful. — Thehighaltar-piece is by Domenichino Muratori. , This church contains the monument of Clement XIV. a celebrated work by Canova, a living Artift, BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. IS Artift, who has placed the ftatue of the Pope between two female figures, namely. Temperance and Meeknefs. Here arc two remarkably fine columns of verde antique, together with many other beautiful marble pillars. This Church is warm. IV. Chief I di S. Maria di Loretto. Here is a celebrated ftatue of St. Sufanna, by Flamingo ! ! V. Chiefa di S. Pietro in Vincoli. A fine Church adorned \Aith ancient Doric co lumns. Here is a pidure of S. Agoftino, by Guercino, and another of S. Margherita, by the fame. The monument of Julius IL defigned by Buonarroti, who died before it was finifhed ; and an ancient confular chair. VI. Chiefa di Geju. This magnificent Church was ereded by Cardinal Aleflandro Farneie, after the plan of Vignola, and finifhed by Giacomo della Porta. The frefcos on the ceiling of the nave, tribuna, and cupola, are by Baciccio, who has repre fented i4 tETTERS FROM iTAtt, fented St. Francefco Saverio afcefiding t& Heaven ! The angles of the cuppla are par ticularly beautiful ! ! ! The Chapel of S* Ignazio, built after the defign of Father Pozzi, 13 "rich beyond defcription, yet not gaudy. The pillars which adorn the altar aire lapis lazuli fluted with gilt bronze, and the globe held by God the Fatheir is the largeft piece of lapis lazuli ever feen. Over the altar, with a veil before it, in a iiiche in- c'rufted with lapis lazuli^ is a ftatue tiifie feet high, cafed with filveri and reprefenting S. Ignazio accompanied by three Angels, all likewife cafed with filver, and dofie after \h.e defign of Le Gros. The habit of St* Ignatius is adorheii with precious ftones. tn this Chapel 'alfo is a celebrated Group, of Religion Vanquifhing Herefy, by Le Gros j and an. oppofite Group of Faith adOrned by- barbarous nations. Here, alfo, are feven bronze hafti-filievi reprefenting the hiftory of the Saint ! This church is warm. GiVe half .BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 15 hilfa panl to the perfon who tmdraws the veil hefore the ftatue of St. Ignatius. VII. Chiefa di S. Carlo a Catejiari. This church contains a pidure of the death of St. Anne, which is deemed the chef d'xteore of Andrea Sacchi ! Over the high-altar is a celebrated pidure of S. Carlo BorJ-omeo's proceffion during the plague at Milan., hf Pietro di Cortona ! The Cardinal Virtues, by Domenichino, in the angles of the cu pola, are ftrikingly fine ! ! ! ! This church is tokrahly -warm. Vlli. Chi^a di S. Andrea della Vaik. , This ribble edifice abounds with fine paint ings. The cupalo, by Lanfraiic, is deemed the beft executed of any one in Rome ! ! ! The four Evangelifts in the angles are by Domehiehino, and the St. John is called his chtf d'xuvre I V.I The 'ceiling of thfe irihujta was done by the fame great Mafter. THe three large pidures in the tribuna are by l6 LETTERS FROM ITALY, by Calabrefe. The Strozzi- chapel was de* figned by Buonarroti. This church is warm. IX. Chiefa di S. Maria in Fallicella, com monly called Chiefa Nuova. This Church, one of the fineft in Rome, was ereded by S. Filippo Neri, after the defigns of Martin Longhi, and Pietro de Cortona, the latter of whom painted the ceiling of the nave, the cupola, and the ceiling of the tribuna. Here, in a dark chapel, is a pidure of holy Women weeping over the dead body of our Saviour, efteemed the beft work of M. A. Carravaggio ! ! Here, likewife, in a Chapel on the right as you approach the high-altar, is a pidure of the Madonna, our Saviour, S. Carlo Borromeo, and S. Ignazio, deemed the chef d'auvre of Carlo Marratti ! The magnificent Chapel of S. Filippo Neri is on the left of the high al tar. The prefentation of the bleffed Vir gin, by Barrocio, is much admired. The tribuna BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798- If tribuna is adorned with fi^•c paintings by Rubens, and a rich ciborio. In the Sacrifty is a ftatue of S. Filippo Neri, by Algardi ; and a ceiling by Pietro di Cortona. Leav ing the Church, and going into the apart ments above ftairs, you find a portrait of S. Filippo Neri, by Guido— a ceiling re prefenting the fame Saint.j by Pietro di Cortona, and feveral Other pidures. Give a paul and a half. This church is warm, but unlefs it be a very Ught day, the pidures are fcarcely difcernible. X. Chiefa di S. Maria della Pace. This Church contains, on the right hand as you enter, Raffaelle's famous Sibylsj fuppofed to be prediding the birth of out Saviour ; but, moft unfortunately, this valuable frefco is almoft obliterated by time. Here, like- wife, is a pidure of the Vifitatioiij by Carlo Maratti ; and another by B. Peruzzi, of the Madonna going to the Temple : the laft,; Vol. II. C however. 18 LETTERS FROM ITALY, 'however, is much injured. This churCh is damp. XI. Chiefa di S. Agnefe in Piazza Na- vona. The cupola is finely painted by Ciro Ferri, Corbellini, and Baciccio ; but this Church is chiefly famous for having been ereded ove'r the Lupanaria of the Circus Agondle, whither St. Agnes was dragged in order to be defiled. You defcend by a ftair- cafe into the Lupanaria, where are confi derable remains of the Circus, together wuth a haffo-rilieVo of St. Agnes, miraculoufly co vered with her own hair, faid to be one of -the beft works of Algardi. Give one paid. The Lupanaria is damp and cold. XII. Chiefa di S. Agoftino. Here is a celebrated yr^/co-painting of the Prophet Ilaiah,by Raffaelle! I!! XIII. Chiefa di S. Maria in Traftevere. This noble ftrudure, which ftands, it is fuppofed, on the fite of the Taberna Meri- toria. BETWEEN 1792 AND I798. 19 toria, (a hofpital for Invalid Soldiers in the days of the ancient Romans), is adorned with 22 magnificent antique granite co lumns of the Ionic order, and a fine an cient pavem.ent of porphyry, verde antique, &c. In the centre of the roof Of the great aile is an affumption ofthe Virgin, by Do menichino I ! ! The Chapel to the left, on approaching the high altar, is embeliifhed with frefcos attributed to Domenichino. The baldaquin of the high-altar is fupported by four porphyry columns, and the tribuna adorned with mofaics of the twelfth cen tury. This Church likewife contains a piece of ancient mofaic, reprefenting ducks. Not cold. In the Piazza before the Church is a fountain made i-n the time of Adrian I. XIV. Chiefa di S. Cecilia in Traftevere. In the court leading to this Church is a fine antique marble vafe. The high-altar is adorned with four columns of 7iero and bianco antico ; under the altar is the cele- C 2 brated so LETTERS FROM itlt'S', brated ftatue of St. Cecilia, by Stefano Ma- derno, in the very pofition in which fhe was found in the cimetero di S. Califto. Under this altar, likewife, is the body of the Saint, whofe tomb confifts of lapis lazuli, alabafter, jafper, agate, &c. Over the altar is a fmall pidure of the Madonna, by Annibale Ca- racci ; and in the tribuna behind, is the executioner cutting off St. Cecilia's head, by Guido. Here, likewife, leading out of the church, on the right as you enter, is an ancient Vapour-Bath, quite perf eSl, in which it is conjedured that St. Cecilia fuftered martyrdom : it is now turned into a chapeL Not very cold. EIGHTH DAY. I. Palazzo Mattei, built by Ammannati, on the foundations of the Circus Flaminius. From the court below you have a view of feveral valuable pieces of fculpture which adorn the walls of the Palace ; the moft fa- moixs BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 21 mous of thefe is a baffo rilievo of Greek workmanfhip, reprefenting Egyptian figures. On the ftairs are four antique feats of mar ble, taken from the Curia Hoftillia, toge ther w ith two fine bafti rilievi. The Portico above is adorned with bci^i rilievi ; and the ceiling ofthe Gallery finely painted by Pietro di Cortona. Here likewife is a ceiling, by Domenichino, reprefenting Abraham blef fing Efau ; another reprefenting Jacob's ladder, by Albano ; and another reprefent ing Jacob and Rachael at the well, by Dominichino.* II. Palazzo * This Palace contains a fine eagle in bronze — two piftures of filhcs, by Pafleri — one pifture repre fenting poultry, and another butcher's-meat, by the lame — Out Saviour and the Woman of Samaria, by Antonio Veronefe ! — Martha and Mary Magdalene, by the fame — a fmall affumption, by Raffaelle when young ! — Chrift betrayed, by Gerardo delle Note. Here, likewife^ is our Saviour difputing with the Doftors, byCaravaggio ! — the Pharifeeslhewing the money to our Saviour, by Rubens, or Rembrant ! — die Woman taken in adultery, by Pietro di Cor- C 3 tona ! ! 22 LETTERS FROM ITALY, II. Palazzo Coftaguii, remarkable for fix ceilings, ift. Hercules wounding the Cen taur, by Albano. — 2d. The Sun in his car. Time -bringing Truth to light, and Boys with the Lion's fkin, Hercules's club, &c. by Dorainichino ! ! — 3d. Rinaldo and Ar- mida, by Gnercino.- — 4th. Venus, Cupid, &c. by Cav. d'Arplno. — 5th. Juftice em bracing Peace, by Lanfranco. — 6th. Orion thrown into the fea and preferved by a Dolphin, by Romanelli ! ! Not cold. Give three pauls. III. Palazzo Falconieri. On the top of the ftairs is a fine Statue of Minerva,- and another of Hygiaea.* IV. Palazzo toHa ! ! — a buft of Cicero ! ! ! — a brpnze horfe, and a buft of Marcus Aurelius. The above named rooms are cold. Give four pauls. * Firft room. S. Sebaftiano, by Gentilefchi — Our Saviour before Pilate, who is wafliing his hands, by Calabrefe ! ! 2d room—K Holy Family, by Rubens, faid to be the beft work of that great Mafter how re maining in Romcr-two heads (in the- fame pifture) over BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 2,3 IV. Palazzo Fantfc. This vaft ftrudure was ereded by Buonarroti aud Giacomo della Porta, and is deemed a fine piece of architedure. In the court be/ozv ftairs, is the Sarcophagus of Cecilia Metella, found in her monument. T/w gallery above ftairs is adorned with fome of the moft celebrated frefcos in Rome, by Annibale Caracci and his Scholars. The centre piece reprefents the triumph of Bacchus and Ariadne ! ! ! ! — other paintings reprefent Paris receiving the golden apple from Mercury — Pan oftering w^ool to Diana Galatea with Tritons, Nymphs, and Cupids — Jupiter and Juno- over one of the doors, by Caravaggio— head of an old Man over another door, by Spagnoletto. Zdroom — laft fupper, by Albano ! ! — the paflion of our Sa viour (with a glafs" over it), by Correggio ! ! — St. John, by Baflano — two battle-pieces, by Bourgui- gnone ! ! ! — Our Saviour's paffions fuppofed to have been done by Buonarroti — a Madonna, by Guido — a Holy Family, by Pouffin ! ! !— a painting on ftone, by Titian — a Madonna and Child with a rijbbit, by ditto — a Magdalene, by Paul Veronefe. I^ot very ccld. Give three pauls. C 4 Apollo 24 LETTERS PROM ITALY, Apollo flaying Marfyas — Boreas carrying off Orythia— .Diana and Endymion — Eury- dlce carried back to Hell — ^^Europa on the bull — ^Aurora and Cephalus in a chariot drawn by two horfes — ^Titan afleep, and Cupid flying with a bafket of rofes — ^Venus and Anchlfes— Hercules and lole — Cupid tying a Satyr — Salmacis and Hermaphro- ditus — Syrinx turned into reeds by Pan— Leander, conduded by Cupid, fwimming to Hero-— Perfeus and Andromeda — combat of Perfeus and Phineas — Polyphemns going to hnrl the fragment of a rock at Acis— the rape of Ganymede — and Hjracinthus ^nd Apollo. In another apartment called // Gabinetto, are fome valuable paintings, by Annibale Caracci, &c. In the Piazza before the Farnefe Palace are two magni ficent granite bafons, faid to be the ^neft in Rome. Not very cold. Give three pauls. V. Palazzo Farneftna. The hall helow ftairs is finely painted in frefco by RaffaeJle and BETWEEN 1792 AND 1/98. 25 and his Scholars. — Subjcd, the hiftory of Pfyche — the two large paintings on the ceiling reprefent the council and banquet of the Gods ! ! ! — in one of the angles are the Graces ; and fhe whofe back only is feen is faid to have been entirely executed by Raffaelle himfelf! ! ! — In an adjoining room is the celebrated Galatea of the fame great Mafter, and a fine coloffal head in one of the lunettes, fketched with charcoal by Buonarroti, while he was waiting for one of his Scholars. — On the ceiling, Diana in her car drawn by bulls, and the fable of Medufa — together with feveral other orna ments, by Daniello de Volterra, Sebaftiand del Piombo, and Baldaffar Peruzzi. In ^the hall above ftairs is Vulcan's forge, by Pe ruzzi, and a beautiful frieze, painted by the ^Scholars of Raffaelle. Not very cold. Giv4 fhreepauls. NINTH DAY. J. Palazzo RondoniHi. Here was a re markable 20 LETTERS FROM ITALY, markable fine fketch by Guido, and an ex quifite antique Medufa's head ; but whether they ftill remain cannot be afcertained, as the Palace is fhut up. II. Palazzo Borghefe."^ III. Pa- * This Palace contains a large colleftion of fine piftures ; and, as the rooms are dark, it is advifable to go on a fine day. Ground foor — A portrait of Ti tian, by himfelf — St. Peter in prifon, by Mola — Ro man charity, by Guercino — a School-mafter, by Mo roni — a Madonna, by Titian — Diana fhooting, by Domenichino — a Madonna and Child, by Titian — a defcent from the crofs, by Garofalo — a prefepe, by Baftano — the Madonna apd another Saint, by Albert Dufer — S. Francefco on a gold ground, by the fame — a Madonna, by Raffaelle U— a fketch, by Baflano — a landfcape, by ditto-— Porcfaits of Cardinal Borgia and Machiavelli, by Raffaelle, or Titian ! — Portrait of Raffaelle, faid to be the moft like him of any one now extant — a Madonna, hy Titian — a Holy Fa mily in Titian's firft ftyle — a fmall pifture, by Raf faelle — a fmall Charity, by ditto — a Madonna with a bird on her finger, by Guercino — a defcent frqm the crofs, by Raffiielle — the temptation of St. Antonio, by Annibale Caracci — S. Caterina, by Pavmegiano — the Mufe, vulgarly called the Sibyl of Domenichino • — a prefepe., by Titian — the Madonna and Child, by Raffaelle — -our Saviour when a Child, ftanding, be tween two other Children, by Vanni — Paintings on glafs. BETWEEN 1702 AND 1798. 27 III. Palazzo G',ifti}i'!iVii, built upon Ne ro's Baths, from whence man}- of the fta tues, bufts, and other antiques were taken. In the Hall, above- li:!}rs, is a ftatue of Mar cellus fitting.* TENTH glafs, by Carlo MHvatt; — .Eneas and Anchifes, by Bavroccio, done when he was feventy — divine and profane Love, by Titian — the Graces, by the fame —David, by Giorgione — St. Cecilia, by Guido — Ve nus, Cupid, and a Satyr, by Paul Veronefe — a Ma donna and Child, by Leonardo da Vinci — a flcetch, by Raffaelle — a Madonna and Child, by Carlo DolcL — The apartments above-flairs contain feveral things worth feeing. Not very cold. Givfour pauls. * Piftures. 2./ rcoii: — Our Saviour with the two Marys, by Annibale Caracci. id room — The miracle of the loaves and fifhes, by Lodovigo Caracci. Ath room — Neli me tangere, by M. A. Caravaggio — the Woman taken in adultery, by Paul Veronefe — 'Judith with the head of Holophernes, by Andrea Mantegna • — a head, by Raffaelle. hth room — A Holy Family, by Garofalo — Mofes, when a Child, by Guido — Rn- chael, by Nicolas Pouffin ! ! !-^a Holy Family, by Baroccio. Gallery — Marriage of Cana, by Paul Ve ronefe ' ! — Chrift dead, by L. Signorelli — the judge ment of Solomon, by N. Pouftin^ — the Madonna and Elizabeth, by Agoftino Caracci. 9th room — Our Sa viour rifen from the grave, by M. A. Caravaggio — the Baker's Daughter, by the fame ! \Qth room — Chrift 2S LETTERS FROM ITALY, TENTk DAY. I. Palazzo Altieri. The Princefs's private apartments are fitted up with peculiar ele gance, and the doors made of oriental ala bafter, and adorned with fine columns of porphyry.* Chrift giving fight to the Blind, by L. Caracci — the laft fupper, by Albano. — Sculpture — a ftatue of Paris, or Hymen I ! ! — a Greek ftatue, with the arms ele vated ! ! — a buft of Alexander — another of Vitellius — ai large vafe adorned with beautiful baft rilievi ! — a goat — buft of a faun ! ! — a ftatue of Minerva, with the ferpent at her feet, faid to have been found in the Temple of Minerva Medica ! ! Irrra celebrated baffo- rilievo of Amalthea, giving fuck to Jupiter, faftened into the wall ! ! \ The rooms which contain the pic tures aratohrably warm; thofe which contain the ftatues very cold. Give four pauls,. (tnd g<) of a Ught day, this Palace being dark. * Princefs's Apartments. — Good bufts- — ai> unfi- niftied pifture, by Correggio — Statue of a Faun ! !— Jofeph interpreting the Baker's and Butcher's dream, by Salvator Rofa ! Nat cold. Give two. pauls. ' The Prince's Apartments contain — the maffacre ofthe In- Boeents, by Poufiin— Lucretia, by Guido — Charity, hy Guercino — Philofophers, by Spagnoletto — and a defcent fronji the crofs, by Vandyck. Not cold. Give iuro pauls. II. Pa- BETWEEN 1792 AND 1708. 3g II. Palazzo Colonna. This noble Edifice is divided into two parts, each of a\ hich has it's Cuftodi — the right-hand divifion, when the fun fhines upon it, is tolerably warm ; the left-hand divifion very cold.* III. Palazzo * Ground-floor — library — and ff;«/>^ri2-painting5 by G. Pouffin and other celebrated Mafters ; thefe apart ments, however, are not ufually fhewn. On thejiair- cafe — a ftatue of a Slave, and a fine porphyry head of Medufa, in haffo-riUevo. Right-hand divifion — ly?, room adorned with piftures — two paintings (origin-ally joined together) in Raffaelle's firft ftyle-7-an Ecce Homo, by Albano — a defcent from the crofs, by Baffano — Ganymede with the eagle, by Titian ! ! ! — Europa, by Albano — a poor Man eating, by Annibale Caracci — a portrait, by Tintoret — two ditto, by Titian — a Madonna and Child, fuppofed to be by Raffaelle — Venus and Adonis, by Titian — portraits of Calvin and Luther, by I'itian. — Gallery — this apartment is ftrik ingly magnificent with refpeft to it's fize, marbles, cabinets, ftatues and piftures. — Entrance or vejiible tj> the gallery — on one fide of the ivoiy and ebony cabinet is a beautiful landfcape, by Claude Lorain ! i ! ! On the other fide an almoft equally beautiful one, by Pouffin ! ! Above the cabinet a landfcape, by Pouffin ! ! ! The cabinet is wonderfully executed. On the fame fide with the Cabinet of precious ftones, are two capi tal landfcapes by Salvator Rofa ! ! ! This entrance contains $b tETTERS FkOM JTALT^ III. Palazzo Doria. This vaft Palace is comfortably warm, the gallery excepted.* ELEVENTH contains many more fine landfcapes, by Claude, &c. In the gallery is-^Judith with the head of Holo phernes, by Guido — VenuS and Cupid, by Paul Veronefe — the prodigal Son, by Guetcino — marriage of Sti Catherine, by Parraigiano^— Adam and Eve, by Domenichino — our Saviour at fupper, . by Baffano — the triumph of David, and the martyrdom of St. Agnes^ both by Guercino-^a ftatue of Diana ! and another of Flora ! — an Ecce Homo by Correggio-:— the plague, by Nicolas Pouffin ! ! !-=^an Ecce Homo, by Albano— a Sibyl, by Guercino — ^fketch of a Magdalene; by Guido — death of Regulus, by Salvator Rofa I ! ! — a battle, by the fame — -dpietd, by Guercino. — Left-hand divifion — Iketches, by Borgognone-'^a tempeft by Bakhuifen ! — another fea-piece, by the fame — a Claude — the famous belgic column once placed in the Temple of Bellona ! ! \ — the Apotheofis,of Homer ! ! ! — Cupids fleeping. — Second-floor — a Magdalene, by Guido!! — Iketch of the martyrdom of St. Peter, by Titian !.! a Madonna and Child, by Battoili — a land-^ fcape, by Lucatelli. Give three pauls to eachc'ujiodi. * Firjl room — Landfcapes, by G. Pouffin. — Id. room, a landfcape with figures, by Pouffin, reprefenting the' birth of Adonis !-^ditto, reprefenting Venus ftealing Adonis from his Mother, by the fame painter I — a- Turkifli Woman on horfeback, by Caftiglione ! — id. room — a landfcape, by Both^^^feveial piftures by , - Baffanoi BETWEEN 1792 AND 1793. 31 ELEVENTH DAY. I. PaLrz-zo Barberini. Ou the ftair-cafe is an alto-rilievo and a lion !!! — Hall, on the firft Baffano — one by Albano. — Ath room — a defcent from the crofs, by Paul Veronefe- — Cain and Abel, by Salvator Rofa !— Chrift bearing his crofs, by Frange- pani ! — portiaits of Bartoli and Baldi, by Raffaelle ! — a pict^., by Annibale Caracci — a portrait of a Lady, by Rubens ! — 5/// room — two fmall piftures, by Andrea Montegna — portrait of Holbens, by himfelf — ditto of his Wife, by himfelf. — dth room — Icarus and Dedalus, by Albano. — Gallery — two piftures by Maffilino — Elizabeth meeting Marv, by Garofalo — a Madonna, by Saffoferrato — a Magdalene, by Calabrefe — ditto, by Titian ! — a Claude ! ! ! — fix femi circular piftures, by Annibale Caracci! ! ! — S. Rucco, by Schidone — a Claude ! 1 ! — the creation of Animals, by Breugel ! !- — Small rooms adjoining to the gallery — ly?. room — a Iketch, by Titian. — Ath room — a landfcape, by Baf fano — ditto, by Pouffin — two ditto, by Both.- — Gallerf continued— a. Claude ! ! ! — the prodigal Son, by Guer^ cino — St. Agnes, by the fame — portrait of Pope Pan- fili, by Diego Valefquez ! ! ! — a Madonna and Child, by Guido — two landfcapes by Claude ! — a holy Fa mily, by Saffoferrato — a landfcape by Both — Mifers counting money, by Albert Durer !. — Luther, Calvin, and Catherine, by Titian-^two landfcapes, by Dome nichino ! S2 Betters from italy; firft floor — a celebrated ceiling, by Pietro di Cortona, faid to be his chef-doeuvre !!!! The fubjed is allufive to Urban VIII. In the centre is the Barberini arms, carried to Heaven by the Virtues in prefence of God, who is furrounded by Time, Eter nity, the Fates, &c. On one fide is Mi nerva, vattquifhing the Titans ; on another Religion and Faith ; with Voluptuoufnefs beneath on the left hand, and Silenus on the right. On the third fide are figures of Juftice and Abundance in the air ; and below them. Charity on the right, and nichino ! — Abraham facrificing Ifaac, by Titian ! ! — a Magdalene, by Annibale Caracci — a rbral dinner, by Teniers, in which is his own portrait — a copy of the Aldobrandine marriage, by, N. Pouffin. — \Ji. room leading from the gallery-^a beautiful pavement. — '2d.- room — two paintings, by Giotto.'— 3«/. ditto — two pic tures, by Baffano — one by Pouffin— and one by Salva- V>r Rofa I — Ath room — landfcapes by Both and Paul Brill. — 5th room — landfcapes by G. Pouffin and Paul Brill. Give four pauls. Hercules between 1792 and 1798. 33 Hercules kiUing the Harpies on the left. On the fourth fide are two figures, one of which reprefents the Church, the other. Prudence ; and, beneath them, is Vulcan's forge on the left hand, and Peace fhutting the Temple of Janus on the right. 3d room — a ceiling by Andrea Sacchi, repre fenting divine wifdom. Cabinet — Lunettes, by Andrea del Sarto.* II. Palazzo * Piftures of St. Paul and St. John, by Andrea Sacchi-^two Pouffins over the door. Ath room — S. Rofalia curing the Plague, by Pietro di Cortona 1 Left hand wing, \Jl room^a. Holy Family, by Titian. 2d room — Noah intoxicated, by Andrea Sacchi — Apollo flaying Marfyas, by ditto— 'heads, by Titian and Guercino. Up fairs — S. Andrea Corfini, by Guido ! ! I —a Magdalen, by ditto ' ! — St. John, by Guercino — S. Gerolamo, by Spagnoletto — Raffaelle's Miftrefs, by himfelf ! ! — and a copy by Giulio Romano ! — Vanity and Modefty, by Leonardo da Vinci ! ! ! — Death of Germanicus, by N. Pouffin ! ! ! — a Sibyl, by Roma nelli — two portraits, by Titian. Give three pauls. The apartments of the Princefs of Paleftrina are faid to contain a fine colleftion of piftures ; but in confe- VoL. IL D quence 34 Betters from italy, II. Palazzo RofpigUofl. This Edifice was ereded on the ruins of Conftantine's Baths. Here quence of a death in the family, they were not fhewn laft winter. On the ground floor are feveral rooms which contain a large colleftion of ftatues, &c. namely ^^Egyptian Gods — Septimus Severus, in bronze — th« Etrufcan Divinity, Abundance. — a coloflal buft of Adrian — Sarcophagi — a figure ofa Woman wafhing herfelf I — a ftatue of Tiberius — another of Marcus Aurelius — an Ifis^ — bufts of Marius and Sylla ! — a fine jtable, with a fmall equeftrian flatue in bronze of Marcus Aurelius— bufts of Commodus and Trajan— a ftatue of Erato — a farcophagus adorned w ith bajjl rilievi — a ftatue of Agrippina — a large mafk — ^fine marble columns- — coloffal bufts of Antinous and Juno — a buft of Lucius Verus — another of Marcus Aurelius — a ftatue of Diana — a table made of precious marbles — an antique mofaic found at Paleftrina, re prefenting the rape of Europa ! ! — ftatues of Juno, -Commodus and Venus — two antique frefcos found in the gardens of Saluft ! one of which reprefents Rome triumphant, and is quite perfeft, the other, Venus going to bathe : this laft has been reftored by Carlo Maratti — a clair obfcur, by Polidore de Cara vaggio — Sarcophagi adorned with bafji-rilievi, one of which reprefents Apollo, Minerva, and the Miifes .; -another, the obfequies of Meleager — Flora feated — the fleeping Faun ! ! I one of the fineft Grecian fta tues between 1792 AND 1798. 35 Here is a C«^o^ belonging to the garden, another belonging to the ground-floor and attic ftory of the palace, and another be longing to the firft-floor. A building in tlie Garden contains the famous Aurora of Guido, one of the fineft frefcos in Rome ! ! ! ! Rather damp and cold. Give . two pauls. Ground floor of the Palace — Rape of Pro ferpine on the ceiling of one of the rooms, by Giovanni di S. Giovanni. Rape of Eu ropa on the ceiling pf another room, by the fame ! Rape of Neptune on the ceil ing of another joom, by the fame. Firft floor — ^A room elegantly painted in frefco, tues that has been found at Rome ; it once adorned the Maufoleum of Adrian — an altap-^a fick Satyr— a column of Africaa marble — feveral bufts-rr-a pan ther — a roe, and a goat-r-two ftatues of Silenus — an ancient bath — a fleeping Love — and a large table of Egyptian granite. All the apartments are cold, ani thofe on the ground-floor efpecially fi. Give three pauls.. This Palace contains an immenfe Library. Thtfoun<- tain in the Piazza Barberini is a very fine one, though fo much overgrown with weeds that its beau ties are /carcely difcernible. 36 letters from ITALY, and on the ceiling the car of Evening, by Giovanni di S. Giovanni.* TWELFTll * Ground-floor ofthe Palace — A flcetch of the ce lebrated defcent from the crofs, Ivy Daniello da Vol terra ! !— four Iketches of the angles of the cupola of S. Andrea della Valle, by Domenichino ! !— St. Ceci lia, by the fame ! ! — two paintings fovmd in Conftan tine's baths ! !-^Head of Venus, by Titian ! f ! Gal lery — fifteen ancient paintings found in Conftantine's Baths — feveral ftatues and bufts, likewife found in the Baths, among which is a head of Venus, ex tremely like that in the tribune of the Florentine Gal- Ifery, and not inferior in beauty \ ! ! Here is an ancient candelabie, and a verde antique bafon. — Very told, "hd attic ftory — \ft room — drawings of ftatues, by Carlo Maratti. ^d room — four battles, by Leandre the eldei^-^four landfcapes by Manglar ; that with the figure of our Saviour walking on the fea isi particularly pleafing. %d room — fourteen fea-pieces by Manglar — a landfcape, by Claude ! ! Ath room — " a landfcape, by Paul Brill ! — people blowing glafs, by- Gerard della Notte ! — a fruit-woman and her child, by Guercino ! ! — a Claude ! ! ! — a landfcape, by G. Pouflin— two piftures, by N. Pouffin, one reprefent ing the Madonna and our Saviour with Angels ! ! ! ? and deemed one of his very fineft works ; the other, the four feafons, or human life, and almoft equally fine ! ! I— a Holy Family, by Titian— ceiling by Cario Maratti, BETWEEN 1792 AND 1/98. ,3.7 TWELFTH DAY. I. Villa Aldobrandini.* II, Vtlla Lodovifta. One of the build ings Maratti. Sth room — Lot and his Daughters, by An nibale Caracci — a Holy Family, by N. Pouffin — ¦ Noah and his Sons, by Andrea Sacchi ! ! — Cyclops, by Baffano — the faithful Friends, by Guercino ! — a Holy Family, by Pietro Perugino — St. John, by Leo nardo da Vinci — S. Rofalia, by Rubens — Pilate wafh ing his hands, by Calabrefe ! ! ! — the circumcifion, by Rubens — two landfcapes, by Pietro Tefta — two cattle-pieces — a portrait, by Vandyck — ditto by Ru bens — ditto by Titian. 6th room — fmall piftures, namely — a Salvator Rofa — a Claude — a Paul Brill- two landfcapes, by Luccatelli. 1th room — a Madonna, St. John, and our Saviour, by Garofalo I 1 ! — draw ings, by Guercino and other celebrated Mafters. Cold. Give four pauls. Ath firft floor — the vifitation, by Gerolamo Muziana — Samfonflecping, with his haiir cut off, by Ann. Caracci — a hunt, by Paul Brill — fe veral landfcapes by the fame — Andromeda, by Guido — our Saviour and the twelve .Apoftles, all in feparate piftures, by Guido ! ! i our Saviour exqulfiteiy fine ! ! ! ! Not cold. Give three pauls. * In thefirft floor of this Villa is an antique fiefc»- painting, found in Titus's Baths, and commonly D 3 vincins: 33 LETTERS FKOM ITALY, ings in the garden of this Villa contains Guercino's morning ! ! ! a tempera-Tpamting equally famous with, though totally diffe-? rent from, that of Guido; the one being day-break, the other fun-rife. The ceiling of the room diredly oyer Guercino's morn ing, is adorned with a beautiful figure of Fame, accompanied by War and Peace, all by Guercino ! ! Give three or four pauls... It is neceffary to choofe a dry warm day fo? feeing this Vill^, every thing worth notice called, the Aldobrandini marriage : it is injured by time, though ftill fufficiently perfeft to furnifh a conr vincing proof of the excellence of ancient paintings, 2d floor — a portrait, by Tinto.ret, of S. Nicolas dj Tolentino i-r-an original fketch, by Giulio Romano,, of his Apollo ^nd the Miifes 1 ! — ^another head, by Tintoret — a dead Chrifti by Afldyea ^(lantegna-rrBacT chus and Ariadngj by Titian ! ! — the piiracle of the demoniac Boy, by Garofalp 1 — Qur Saviour and two of his Difciples, faid ^to he by Titian — the vepofe of the Gods, by John Bellino, Titian's Mafter — a eoncert, by Parmigiano. Without-flde of the Villa are fopie celebrated alti-rilieyi, reprefenting Boxers, a facrifice, &c. Rather cold. Give three pttuls. being BETWEEN 1792 AND I798. 39 being in the garden, which is extremely laces and Vi' las, fnould fend a day before hand. At the Capitol and Vatican admit tance is eafily obtained at almoft every hour — at St. Peter's it is wife to appoint the Sa^ criftan a day before-hand. Pqrfons wifhing to fee finall and tmfrequented Churches, Ihould fend a day before-hand.* There are cloth-fhoes fold in the ftreets of Rome for about three or four pauls the pair, which Invalids fhould ^ways put on over their other fhoes, or boots, when they vifit churches, palaces, and villas. It is likewife prudent to put on an extra coat, or cloak, on going into moft pf the juft- named edifices, and to pull it off on coming out ; in fhort, too many precautions cannot be taken, in order to paitlgate that danger- * I fay nothing of the Palarao and the Villa Albani, fiejieving theni both to ^e entirf ly deftroyed- ops 44 LETTERS FROM ITALY, ous chill which is the inevitable confequeflce of remaining long in large, damp, and un-. inhabited apartments, with marble or brick floors; and Perfons afilided with weak lungs fhould, on no confideration, venture into the coldeft churches, palaces, &c. During the months of May and Odober, however, the contraft between the external and inter nal air is lefs great than at other periods. A yariety of things highly worth notice are conftantly to be met with at the dif ferent Artifts in Rome. Among thefe, the newly -found ftatue of Tiberius feems to rank higheft. This ftatue was difcovered at Pi- perrio, the ancient Privernum, between Rome and Naples — it is a fitting figure. Addlfon fays, That about four years previ ous to his villtlng Italy, a large piece of marble was found near Puzzubla, which proved to* be the pedeftal of a ftatue ereded to Tiberius, by the fourteen cities of Afia that were thrown down by the earthquake which. BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 45 which happened at our Saviour's cruci fixion, and which the Emperor affifted the Inhabitants to re-build. There are two medals of Tiberius, ftamped on the fame occafion, in both of which he is reprefented fitting, with z. patera in one hand and a fpear in the other ; in fhort, precifely in the pofture of the newly- found ftatue. The ftatue of Antinous, difcovered at Pa- lefbrina during the autumn of 1793} is of beautiful Greek marble, and about eleven Englifh feet high — he is in the charader of Bacchus ; his left-hand once held a thyrfis of bronze, and clofe to his left-leg ftands the myftic baflcet of Bacchus. The bronze drapery, which originally covered part of this figare, is, like the thyrfis, loft ; the face and hair exadlly refemble the alto-rilievo of Antinous at the Villa Albani. The chajradcr is beautiful, the pofition grand 46 tETTfiftS PROM iTAtr, grand and impofing, the execution delicate, the colour that of fine ivory, the preferva tion of the marble perfed ; in a word, this is deemed the fineft of all the ftatues of Antinous — ^fiich, at leaft, feems to be the opinion of our Britifh Phidias, Mr. Flax- man. A Statue of Minerva, faid to be of the very fineft Greek workmanfhip, has lately been difcovered at Veletri, where I believe it ftill remains. There are a great many Hofpitals at Rome, which fo amply fiipply Mendicants, that it Is faid they all may, for afking, be furnifhed vnth two or three meals a day and a bed to fleep upon. The Hofpital of S. Spirito is a noble Edi fice, It receives Foundlings, and fick Perfbps of all defcriptions. The Hofpital of S. Michele alfo is a fine one J it Receives Orphans and aged Perfons of BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 4/ of both fexes, and likewife ferves as a houfo of corredion. The tapeftry made here is worth feeing. ANTIQUITIES AND CHURCHES WITHOUT TIIE ClTY-GATES. I. Chiefa di S. Sebaftiano alle Catacomhe. Here are the celebrated Catacombs, origi nally formed, it is fuppofed, by the Gentiles, who took from thence the Pozzolana of whieh their buildings were compofed. The Chriftians enlarged thefe Catacombs, and, in times of perfecution, ufed them as hiding- places and fepulchres. They are faid to ex tend fix miles, and may be explored in winter only with fafety; but, even during winter, Perfons whofe health is delicate fhould not ven ture down. Give five pauls. II. Sepolcro di Cecilia Metella. This is one of the moft perfed fepulchral monu ments of ancient Rome ^ and was ereded by 4S LETTERS FROM ITALY, by Craffus to enclofe the remains of his Wife, Cecilia Metella. III. Cerchio di Caracalla. The walls ftill remain entire. IV. Tempio di Bacco, now Chiefa di S. JJrbano alia Cafarella. Four Corinthian <;olumns of white marble, which once fup- jJorted the portico ofthe Temple, and now adorn the Church, are all the remains of antiquity we difcover here, and but little worth notice. V. Fontana della Dea Egeria, confe crated to this Nymph and the Mufes, by Numa Pompilius. The Statue of Egeria^ fadly mutilated by time, is ftill vifible at the upper-end of the grotto ; fhe is in a re cumbent pofture ; and round the grotto are niches, wherein the Mufes formerly ftood. VI. Chiefa di S. Paolo alle tre Fontanci remarkable for being the fpot on which this great Apoftle fuffered, and where con fiderable BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 49 fiderable numbers of Chriftians were ex ecuted by command of the Emperor Dio- clefian, after he had employed them in ereding his baths. VII. BafiUca di S. Paolo fuori delle Mura. This vaft Edifice was ereded by Conftantine the Great over the grave of St. Paul, enlairged by Theodofius, and finifhed by Honorius : it's chief ornaments are one hundred and eighteen magnificent columns of precious marble, taken from Adrian's Maufoleum. The altars are adorned with columns of porphyry, and thie pavement abounds with fragrneflts of ancient fepulchral infcriptions. In the arch of the great nave is a mofaic made in 440, and the centre-door, con fifting of bronze embeliifhed with baffi- rilievi, was caft at Conftantinople, in I070. VIII. Sepolero di Cajo Ceftio. This Pyra mid, ereded in memory of Caius Ceftius, SeptemvirFpulonum, or Provider for the feafts of the Gods, is abpve an histiadred feet high. Vol. II. E Withijx- 50 LETTEHS FROM ITALf, Wi thin-fide is a room once adorned with ¦paintings, which now, however, are almoft totally effaced. IX. BafiUca di S. Lorenzo fuori le Mura, anciently the temple of Neptune, of which there are confiderable and beautiful re mains, namely, the fix pillars of the por tico, and thofe of the tribuna, together with the entablature. This Church was built by Conftantine the Great over the graves of St. Lorenzo and other Chriftian Mar tyrs — the pavement is very beautiful, and -near the great- door is a -fine antique far cophagus, the hafft-rilievi on which repre fent marriage-ceremonies. Here likewife is another antique farcophagus with Bacchana lian emblems. This Church is always open, but extremely damp and cold. LETTER H BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. SI LETTER XVIII. Rome, January 1798. AVING finifhed my account of Rome> I will now proceed to mention what we found the moft convenient way of vifit- ing it's environs. TIVOLI. THIS excurfion can only be undertaken with advantage in dry and temperate wea ther, autumn is the beft feafon ; and fup pofing the party to confift of two Perfons lanly, the moft comfortable plan is to hire an eafy carriage and a pair of urong horfes, to cany you to Tivoli and S. CofimatO> and remain out three days ; for which you inay proBaUy pay about ten fcudi to the Jobrriaii, and fix pauls per day to the Coachman. The diftance from Rome to TIvdU is faid to be eighteen Roman miles. ^2 You 62 LETTERS FROM iTALt, You are four or five hours in going ; the afcent to the latter place being long and fharp. Perfons having their own carriage, ufually pay three fctidi per day for every pair of horfes, and fix pauls per day to every Driver. Three miles diftant from the gate of St. Lorenzo, is the Ponte MammoJo, built by Mammea, Mother to Alexander Severus, and under which paffes the Teverone or Anio. Twelve miles from the above-named gate, is the Lago de ' Tartari, anciently a Volcano ; and, further on, the Ponte della Solfatara, and the Ponte Lucano, all very interefting to the Naturalift. Still further on, is the Sepolcro della Famiglia. Plautia. Tivoli is built upon rocks formed of a de- pofition from the water, which defcends from the calcareous mountains of the Apen- nine— thefe rocks abound in the neighbour hood, and feem to prove that the fpot on which Tiyoli now ftands, together with much BETWEEN 1792 AND 1/98. 53 much of the adjacent country, was origi nally under water. We went to the Inn called La Sibilla, from a beautiful Tem ple of that name, ftanding in the garden of the houfe : it is faid, however, to be in icality a Temple of Vefta, the Temple of La Sibilla, which ftood clofe to it, being now converted into a Church. At the inn you may generally have dinner for fix or eight pauls per head, and beds for four. — r The attic-floor, which is the drieft, com mands a view of the grand cafcade of the Teverone. Perfons who care much about eating, fhould take meat, bread, and wine, with them, as fifh and eggs are the only provifion likely to be found at Tivoli. We went before dinner to fee the Grotto di Nettuno, which lies immediately under the garden of the inn, and is well worth view ing, though fo damp as to be da?tgerous to Invalids. After dinner, we vifited the Tem pio della Tofte, which is quite entire, arid E 3 bcautlfullv S4 LETTERS FROM ITALY, beautifully crowned with fhrubs; (it re fembles the Temple of Minerva Medica at Ilome) — ^and then, walked rouiid the Ter-. race to fee the Cafcadelle, Mecanass Villa, and the Villa dEfte, which objeds render this walk one of the moft interefting in Italy. SECOND DAY. We fet out early in the morning for S. Cofimato, a Convent ten miles diftan^ from Tivoli : this Convent is built upon a cliff overhanging a deep and narrow valley, through which flow^s a river that, from bemg confiderably obftruded in it's courfe by fragments of rocks, apparently fallen from the fiirrounding precipices, is broken into thundering torrents and natura] cafcades. The moft curious objed here is the Claudian Aquedu6i, one arcb of which, where it croffed the river, is yet ftanding ; and this Aquedud was carried through the heart of feveral mountains, and ¦exten4"' ed BETWEEN 1792 AND 1/98. 55 cd to Rome, a diftance of near fixty miles ; and the labour fo ftupenduous a work muft have coft is almoft inconceivable. The en trance into one part of it is juft under the Convent-garden ; you go down with lights, and may pafs a confiderable way under the movmtaln, where the Aquedud is as per fed as if made but yefterday, not even the plaifter having fuffered any injury from time. The mountains ©f S. Cofimato are formed of the fame tartareous depofitlon with thofe of Tivoli. After having taken fome refrefhment, which we carried with us, we fet out for Horace s Villa, (three miles diftant from the Convent, and whi ther you muft either go upon an afs, or walk, there being no carriage-road further than S. Cofimato.) After taking a view of the Villa and the Sabine farm, we returned to the Convent, where the Monks fhewed us a book which defcribes the ancient fite pf the Villa, and likewife mentions the old E 4 names 56 LETTERS FROM ITALY, names of every place and river inthe neigh* bourhood. We then went back to dine at Tiyoli. THIRD DAY. We vifited the Villa Adriana, two miles from Tivoli, and on the way back to Rome. The edifices belonging to this Villa are fiippofed to have extended for fe ven miles — here were three Theatres — a Hippodrome, the Pecile of Athens— -the Stoic's Temple — the Library — ^Temples of Diana and Venus— the imperial Apartments — rooms for the Emperor's family — the Temple of Apollo, where are niches for the nine Mufes — the Soldiers' Quarters, built under-ground, yet quite dry and perfed — • baths for Women — baths for Men — Philo fophical Schools — Apartments for the Phi lofophers — the Canopo — a Temple built in imitation of that of Serapis in Egypt, &c. &c. Some remains of all the above-men tioned buildings may ftill be difcovered. The BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 57 The Mafter of the inn at Tivoli is wor thy and civil ; the Natives of the country, generally fpeaking, favage. There is another inn befides La Sibilla, but it is reckoned a very bad one, though perhaps lefs damp and noify than La Sibilla, where the found of the water-fall frequently prevents Travellers from fleeping. PALESTRINA. Palestrina, the ancient Pranefte, is fomewhat above twenty Englifh miles from Rome, and merits notice, on account ofthe famous Temple of Fortune ereded here by Sylla, and afterwards repaired and decorated by Adrian, of which there are confiderable remains, although the town of Paleftrina is built on it's foundations. The Mofaic taken out of this Temple, and now placed in the Palace of Prince Barberini, is a very furious piece of antiquity ! — Winkelmann fuppofes 58 letters from ITALY, fiippofes it to reprefent the arrival of Me^? nelaus and Helen in Egypt. We hired horfes for two days, took pro vifions with us, and fet out early in thq miorning. The road Is good, and the inn- HOt very bad. FRASCATI. Frascati, in Latin Tufcttlum, is about twelve Englifh miles from Rome ; and, as the road is good. Travellers may eafily go and return ;n the fame day, by fetting out. early ; though it is more advifeable to fleep one night at Frafcati. In the way thither we faw Grotto Ferrata, which lies very little out of the dired road, and from whence to Frafcati, (about one mile and a half in dif tance) the drive is delightful. Grotto Fer rata, ufually denominated, the fite of Cicero s Tufculan Villa, is, particularly famous for fome capital paintings in the Abbey, by Do menichino, BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 59 menichino, the moft celebrated of which is, t e iL-raoniac Boy ! ! ! At Frafcati the coloffal buft of Antinous in the Villa Mon- dragone, which belongs to the Borghefe Fa mily, is highly worth feeing, it was found at Tivoli ; and, according to Winkelmann, may be ranked among the fineft things yet difcovered in fculpture ! The Villa Falco nieri merits notice. The Inn at Frafcati is a tolerably good one, and the Mafter very civil ; it is advife able, however, for Travellers to carry cold meat with them. I will now clofe my letter with what ieems to me the prefent charader of the Romans. This people, taken colledively, neither poffefs the worth of the Tufcans, nor the good-humoured buffoonery of the Neapolitans, though many Individuals are extremely amiable. The Nobles feldom f rouble themfelves to attain much erudition, but 00 LETTERS FROM ITALY, but are polite and kind to Foreigners. Gen tlemen belonging to the Church and Law are ufiially well-informed ; it is, however, remarkable, that the moft learned of thefe are not Romans. Tradefmen make no fcruple of impofing upon Foreigners, and the Populace are not only inclined to cheat and thieve, but likewife to be favage, paf fionate, malicious, and revengeful. The People in general ftill retain much of their former haughty charader ; and the Inhabir tants of Traftevere (faid adually to defcend from the ancient Romans) are not only brave to ferocity, but fo proud of their An ceftors, that nothing can induce them to match with a perfon who does npt boaft the fame origin. A Gentleman told me he lodged in the houfe with onq of thefe Trafteverini, a Bar ber by trade, and wretchedly poor, when his Daughter was addreffed by a wealthy and icfpcdable German ; but, notwithftanding thefe BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. Cl thefe advantages, the Lover received a rude and pofitive refufal from the Mother of the Girl. My acquaintance, furprifed at this behaviour, afked the Mother why fhe aded fo imprudently ? — " Your Daughter, (con tinued he) is wholly unprovided for ; furely, then, you ought to rejoice in an opportu nity of uniting her to a rich and worthy Man." " Rejoice in uniting her to a Fo reigner, a Barbarian ! (exclaimed the Wo man) No, Sir ; w^ere my Daughter capable of cherifhing fo difgraceful an idea, I fhould not fcruple to plunge a dagger into her heart." The beft Hotels at Rome are Margari- Ti's, Sarmiento% and Pio's. LETTER 62J LfiTTEHS^FROM ITAtTjj B LETTER XrX. i^aplesi September 1797.' EFORE i eiiter tipOn a defcription of this City, I will give you a fliort ac count of the country through whicli w© paffed on our way from Rome hither. Albano., the firft objed worth notice, is a beautifully fituated Town, and contains a -Maufoleum called that of Afcanius the Son of ^neas, though many Authors fuppofe it to be the tomb of Clodius. Here, likewife, near the Gate Jeading to Riccia, ' is another Maufoleum, terminating, iri feveral pyra mids, and called the tomb of the Horiatii and Curiatii, although more probably that 6f Pompey the Great. Lago Caftello, or the Lake of Albano, is the crater of an extind volcano, and feven or eight miles in circumference. The Canal of between 1792 AND 1798. 63 of this Lake, called the Emifario, one of the moft extraordinary works of the ancient Romans, is faid to have been done during the fiege of Veil, in obedience to the Del phic orade. At Ca/iel Gandolfo, one mile diftant from Albano, is the Villa Barberini, the garden belonging to which comprifes the ruins of Domliiajts Villa. Six miles diftant from Albano, is the fite ofthe ancient Lavitiinm. Veletri, once a confiderable town belong-' ing to the Volfci, is celebrated fbr being the country of Auguftus. Between Veletri and Terracina lie the Pontine Marfhes, (Paludi Pontine,) faid to be about twenty-four miles iri length. Ap- pius Claudius was apparently the firft Per fon who undertook to drain them ; Cethe- gus and Casfar continued the work, which> in the lower ages, was repaired by Cecilius Decius, at the command of Theodoric. Bo niface VIII, was the firft Pope who began to drain 64 LETTERS FROM ITALYj drain thefe Marflies ; Martin V. before his acceffion to the papal throne, was employ ed to continue draining them, and fucceed ed wonderfully by making the Canal called Rio Martino: The Princes of the houfe of Medicis, and after them, Sixtus V- made new canals ; fubfequent Popes purfued a fimilar plan ; till at length, the prefent Pon tiff completed this benevolent work, and formed a road over the Marfhes, juftly efteemed one of the beft in Europe : and fo wife are the precautions he has taken to purify the air, that no danger is to be ap prehended from it now, except during the prevalence of very hot weather. Piperno, anciently Privernum, is fuppofed to have been the capital of the Volfci. Terracina, a beautifully fituated: town, was originally built by the Volfci, and after wards became a Roman Colony : the Pppe has a Palace here. The Cathedral was ereded upon the ruins of a Temple of Apollo BETWEEN 1792 AND i;OS. 05 Apollo — ^^the portico is fupported by fine fluted marble columns. Here is a curious Vafe, and ari infcriptioii in honour of Theodoric, firft King of Italy. On the hill above the town are ruins of Theodoric's Pa lace, and the ancient Anxiir. The temple of Jupiter Anx'ur efpecially merits notice ; it was ereded by order of the Conful Pofthu- mius, after the defign of Vitruvius Polllo. The Port of Terracina, made by Antoni nus Pius, feems to have been a fine one. A few miles from hence is a building called Torre de Conftni, which feparates the king dom of Naples from the patrimony of St. Peter. Fondi, a fmall town built upon the Ap pian way, once belonged to the Aurunci, a People of Latium — the air here is deemed unwholefome. Itri, ariother fmall town, anciently called Mamurra, is likewife built upon the Appian way. Vol. II. F Near 66 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Near Molo-di-Gaeta, on the right ofthe high-road, is an ancient Tower, fuppofed to be the tomb of Cicero, ereded on the fpot where he was murdered. Molo-di-Gaeta is a beautifully fituated town, in a wholefome air. At Gaeta is a building called Torre d' Orlando, fiippofed to have been the Maufoleum of Munatius Plaricus, the Founder of Lyon. In the Bap- tiftry of the Cathedral at Gaeta, is a haffo- rilievo, reprefenting Ino, Wife of Athamas, King of Thebes, fitting on a rock, and hiding one of her Children in her bofom, to fave it from it's Father's fiiry. This hcffo- rilievo bears the name of Salpion, an Athe nian Sculptor. After quitting Gaeta, you pafs the Garir^ gliano, (anciently the Liris,) in a fefry; and near this river, on tbe Gaeta-fide, are. ruins of an Amphitheatre, an AquedutS, &c. fuppofed to have been part of the ancient town of Minturnum. Capua BETWEEN 1792 AND I798. C7 Capua is a dirty town, which contains little or nothing worth notice, except frag ments of antiquities tak,en from the old City, among which are coloffal heads, that once adorned the Amphitheatre of ancient Capua, and are now placed in the court of the Governor's Palace. From Capua to Naples, the country is one continued garden. F 2 LETTER 68 LETTERS FROM ITALY? LETTER XX. Naples, September' \7Q7' T^TAPLES, in Italian Napoli, is, at firft •*" ^ fight, one of the nioft captivating Cities in Italy, owing to it's Immenfe num ber of Inhabitants, magnificent quay, and beautiful fituation: this firft impreffion, how ever, foon wears off; while the extreme bad tafte which pervades , almoft every building, induces Travellers to prefer Rome, even in, her prefent mutilated ftatej to all the gaiety of Naples. This laft-named City is fo an cient, that it is fcarcely poffible to pierce through the clouds of obfcurity which en- vellop it's origin : tradition, however, re ports, that it was founded by an Argonaut thirteen hundred years before the Chriftian aera,- and afterwards peopled and enriched by Greek Colonies from Rhodes, Athens, and Chalcis. It anciently bore the name of Parthenope, BETWEEN 1/92 AND 1798. OQ Parthenope, an appellation beftowed upon it by the Phoenicians, in confequence of it's ©harming fituation. Near Parthenope ftood another City, called Palcopolis, from being fo old that it'? origin was afcribed to Her cules ; and when Parthenope was deftroyed by her jealous Neighbours, the People of Cuma, and afterwards rebuilt in obedience to an oracle, the new City was called Nea- polis, to diftinguifh it from the old one, called Paleopolis ; till at length both were joined together by Auguftus. Naples, how ever, ftill retained her Grecian manners, cuftoms, and language, and even to this day retains them in many parts of her ter ritories. I will now mention, in a fiimmary man ner, the objeds beft worth notice in this City. The moft beautiful part of Naples is it's piagnificent Quay, which comprehends ^ F 3 public 70 LETTERS FROM ITALY, public walk, called the Villa Reale, at the entrance of which are two antique Statues of Warriors, and, in it's ceritre, the cele-^ b. i'd s^roup, called // Toro Farnefe, origin-^ u:^,' ;; ought to Rome from Rhodes, and found in C^racalla's Baths, frorn whence it was removed to tbe Farnefe Pala^ce. It is, fuppofed to reprefent Amphion a^d Zetus, who, by order of Antiope, their Mother, are binding Dirce to the horns of a wild bull, Apollonius is f4d to have executed inuch of this Group, which has, however, b^en re ftored in fq many parts that Uttle ofthe an^ tique work remains, the bull excepted, The Palazzo Reale, ereded by the Courit de Lemos,- Yiceroy of Naples, aftpr the de fign of Cav. Fontana, is a good piece of architedure. The Piazza before the Palace, contains a gigantic Statue of Jupiter, which wa? found &t Pouzolo. Caftel- BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 71 Caftel-Nuovo is a large fortrefs,' which contains the Arfenal, and a curious arch ereded in honour of King Alphonfo. Chiefa di S. Luigi di Palazzo, is a hand fome church — behind the high-altar is a painting by Luca Giordano, fo are thofe on the fides of the choir, and on the ceiling of thp fanduary. Here, likewife, are paint ings by P. Matteis, Solimene, &c. Th,e {§|acr^fty contains paintings by Giaquin'ro. Chiefa di S. Spirito a Palazzo — A Ma donna, by Giordano ! — and the baptifm of our Saviour, on the ceiling, by Matteis. Chiefa di S. Francefco Saverio, or S. Fer^ dinando-rrr-a. vault and cupola, by Matteis ! Chiefa di Sa. Maria della SoUtaria — paint ings by Spagnoletto and Giordano — St. Ce cilia, by M. A. Caravaggio. Chiefa di Sa. Brigida — Tomb of Giordano ¦r— and a cupola painted by the fame Mafter. Caftello deir Uovo — Once a Villa belong ing to Lucullus, and feparated from the F 4 main- 72 LETTERS FROM ITALY/ main-land by an earthquake. William I. ' fecond King of Naples, built a Palace here ; it derives it's name from it's fhape. Chiefa di Sa. rer£/a— Paintings by Gior dano. Afcenfione de' Geleftini — ^Paintings by the fame Mafter. Chiefa di So, Maria del Parto- — The tomb of the celebrated Poet, Sannazaro, ftands be hind the high- altar of this church, and was executed by Poggibondi, a Scholar of Buo narroti's. The compofition is good, though too much loaded with ornaments ; the fub jeds allude to the pifcatory eclogues, and other writings of Sannazaro. On the top is his buft, with his Arcadian name, ASiius. Sincerus — the two figures of David and Ju dith, were originally defigned for Apollo and Minerva ; the infcription is by Cardinal Bembo. Caftello di S. Elmo, formerly called S,. j:rafmo, or S. Ermo. This Fortrefs, and the Chartreusf. BETWEEN 1792 AND 1708. 73 Chartreiix-Conxcnt near it, arc wcH ^^'orth icclng. If you walk, the diftance from Na ples to S. Elmo is inconfidcrable ; but, from the afcent being very fharp, and continually up fteps, it is fatiguing to walk. The coach load is a good one ; but carriages with four places cannot well go without four horfes : .carriages with two places, however, may go with a pair. The Fortrefs of S. Elmo was begun by the Normans, and the Cita del ereded by Charles V. This horrid-look ing prifon is chiefly formed out of an im menfe rock, and faid to contain fubterra- jiean apartments, which extend to the Caft- fello-NuovQ. The view from S. Elmo is beautiful. Chiefa di S. Martino, belonging to the Chartreux-CorxMznt — rich in marbles, but too much ornamented. The twelve Pro phets in the nave, are by Spagnoletto ! — the ceiling by Lanfranco ! The fecond Chapel, on the left-hand, contains three pidures by Maffimo, 74 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Maffimo, reprefenting the life of S. Bruno I — in the Choir is an unfinifhed nativity, attributed to Guido — here, likewife, is our Saviour adminiftering the communion, by Spagnoletto. The high-altar is immenfely rich — the Sacrifty contains a dead Chrift, by Spagnoletto ! and a ceiling by Giordano ! In the Chapter-room is a pidure of the Madonna, our Saviour, and S. Bruno, by Lanfranco ; and in the Prior's apartment, a celebrated crucifix, by Buonarroti!! The view from the Convent-Garden is particu larly fine. Chiefa di.S. Severe, la Sanita, and S. Gen-^ naro de Poveri — all lead to the Catacombs, No Invalid fhould viftt thefe fubt err ane an re-r pofitaries, the inveftigation of which cannot even he wholefome for Perfons in health, all the unhappy Sufferers during the laft Plague- having been thrown in here. The Catacombs of Naples are faid to be touch larger and finer than thofe of Rome ; it is not ea^, however^ BET-\VEEN 1792 AND I798. 75 however, to afcertain this, it being impof fible to penetrate far into them. The gene ral opinion feems to be, that they were public burial-places, originally ma-le by the Pagaps, who dug ftone for their in.menfe edifices, till they formed thefp vaft c ives which were afterwards devoted to the Depd. Palazzo di Capo di Monte. Jobmen will not fuffer jlieir parriages to afcend the hilj on which this Palace ftands, without four horfes, for -which tl^e ufual price is three ducats.* The * This Edifice contains a very large colleflion of piftures, ibme of which are ftrikingly fine, together with a celebrated Cabinet of medals, cameos, intag lios, and an onyjc cup, eight inches in diameter. In valids, however, fliould t/nly vifit it from the end of June to the ertd of Oif ober ; the apartments being, at Other ^imes, extremely damp and cold. Moft cele brated piftgrps— -Portraits, &c. by Parmigiano ! — Margarita of Auftria, by Tiziano — Giulio Clovio, by himfelf — DanafS, by Tiziano ! ! ! — the laft judgment, by Giulio Romano — Venus and Adonis, by Tiziano ! — the Magdalene, and an Ecce Homo, by Guido — two heads, by Spagnoletto — naked Children ! — De mocritus f@ LETTERS FROM ITALY, The Univerfity, or Stndii Publici, contains the famous coloffal Hercules of Glycon ! ! ! with many other things worth notice. This Univerfity was ereded by order of the Vice roy Ferdlnando Ruiz de Caftro, Count de Lemos, after the defign of Fontana. The front is ornamented with antique Statues found at Cuma, and fuppofed to have once mocritus and Heraclitus — the refurreftion — Hercules •between Virtue and Pleafure — Rinaldo and Armida ! and a fmiling Child holding back a curtain, all by the Caracci Family — marriage of §. Catherine, by Correggio ! ! ! — a large number of pictures, by Schi done, whofe works are very rare — two large piftures with fine heads— Chrift triumphant — the Madonna in glory, and two concerts of Angels, all by Correggio ! ! ! a Madonna and Child — a tempora-pamting — a Holy Family, with Attendants — the Madonna, oar Saviour, and S. Catherine — and Children's heads, all by Cor reggio ! ! ! ! — three Holy Families, by Raffaelle — Leo X. between two Cardinals, faid to be a copy of the pifture in the Palazxo Pitti at Florence, done by Andrea del Sarto — Raffaelle's Servant, by Raffaelle — • the Holy Family, by Andrea del Sarto — a head, by Leonardo da VinCi — S. George and the Dragon, by Eubens — the finding of Mofes, and the betraying of Chrift, by Paul Veronefe. This Palace contains one ef the four great Libraries of Naples. belonged BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 77 belonged to the Family of Agrippa ; it was publicly opened in l0l5, by Don Pietro de Caftro, Son and SuccefiTor to the Count. There appears, however, to have been an Univerfity at Naples previous to this period, and founded, it is faid, about the year 1587. Chiefa della Verita — Good pidures. Chiefa di S. Efrem, or Jefremo Nuovo — A fine Library, with many rare manufcripts. Chiefa di Sa. Maria Maddalena de' Pazzi, or, II Sacramento — Good pidures. Chiefa di S. Dome?iico di Soriano — Cupola by Calabrefe, and a pidure by Giordano. Palazzo Tarfia — Some good pidures, and one of the, four great Libraries of Naples. Chiefa della Pieta de Torchini — ^A cupola by Griordano ! Chiefa di Ifincoronata — Some remains of paintings, by Giotto. Chiefa di Sa. Maria la Nuova — The ado ration of the Magi, by Giordano. Chiefa di Monte Oliveto — A ftatue, called Jofeph f8 tETTERS FROia ITALt, Jofeph of Arimathea, which isy in fad, the portrait of Sannazaro— ^a pidure reprefent ing the purificatiott, by Vafari, who like- wife painted the Sacrifty— an aflutoption, by Pinturicchio. The Library is confider-* able; and, in the Apothecary '« Shop be-* longing to the Convent, the famous per fumed Naples- Soap is fold. Palazzo Mdtalone — ^A handfome edifice, which contains fome ftatues, &c. Chiefa di S. Anna de Lombardi — ^The in-^ fant Jefus and the Madonna, prefenting a rofary to S. Domenico, by Lanfranco. Chiefa di Spirito Santo — much ornament ed — ^the Madonna prefenting a rofary to S. Domenico, by Giordano. Chiefa di S. Giovanni de Florentini — built by a Difciple of Buonarroti's' — ^the architec ture is admired, as are fome ofthe paiatlngs. Chiefa di Sa. Trinita del Monte-Ermeo — St. Jerome, by SpagnoUetto — a Madonna and BETWEEN 1792 AND I798. 7Q and Saints, by the fame — paintings, by Be- rardino. Chiefa di Trinita Maggiore, or Gefti Nuovo. — This is deemed the fineft church at Na ples — it was built after the defign of No- vello di S. Lucano, but has fuffered confi derably from earthquakes ; by one of which the cupola, painted by Lanfranco, was de ftroyed, the four Evangelifts excepted — the other paintings in the prefent cupola are by Paul Matteis. Over the great-door is an immenfe frefco, by Solimene, reprefenting HeUodorus driven out of the Temple ! The Chapel of the Madonna, on the right-hand, is by the fame Mafter — the Chapel of S. Ignazio, is adorned with fine marbles ; and the whole Church beautifully incrufted and paved with the fame. The Chapel of the Trinity contains a pidure, by Guercino. Chiefa di Sa. Chiara — A Gothic Edifice, fo much furcharged with ornaments, that it looks more like a ball-room than a Chrif tian so LETTERS FROM ITALY,' tian temple— the ceiling is' chiefly paifited by Sebaftian Conca ; but, in that part im mediately Over the high- altar, if a celebrated frefcOj by one of Solimerie's Scholars, re prefenting Sa. Chiara putting the Saracengs to flight; Here are fome curious Gothic totobs, and hciffi rilievii. Palazzo della Rocca-^-^S'ome good pidures; Chie/a di Gefu-Vecchio, Or II Salvadore — ' Two paintings by Mark of Siena, and one hy Solimene. Chiefa di S. Giovanni Maggiore- — This Edifice is built upon the ruins of a Terriple which was ereded by Adrian to his Favou rite Antinous, and fome fmall remains of ancient fluted columns may ftill be traced. It was confecrated by Conftantine and He-^ ^na to St. John Baptift ; and, in confe quence of it's great antiquity, a tomb which it contains has been dignified with the nanaa of Parthenope s Sarcophagus^ Palazzct BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 81 Palazzo Filoniarino — The beft worth fee ing of any Palace at Naples, in point of pic tures. Chiefa di S. Domehica Grande, or S. Do menico Mflg-^/or^— Rather a plain Churchy with a handfome high-altar — -Here is a por trait of S. Domenico — an annunciation, at tributed to Tiziano ; and a flagellation, at tributed to M. A. Caravaggio. The ' ceil ing of the Sacrifty is adorned with a Glory, by Solimene ! The Convent belonging to the Church of S. Domenico, formerly com prifed the Univerfity. Chiefa di Sa. Maria della Pieta— {a Cha pel belonging to the Palazzo San Severo) — This fingular Edifice is richly adorned with raarbles, and contains, in every arch, a Sar cophagus^ and a Statue of one of the Princes of S. Severo ; while, attached to every ad joining pllafter, is tbe tomb of the Princefs^ Wife to the Prince in the arch — each of the iaft-n«ta,ed tombs being ornamented v/ith a Vol. II. G Statue 82 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Statue reprefenting the chief virtue of the Lady in the, tomb. One of the moft re markable ftatues is that of Modefty,, covered from head to foot with a veil, through which, however, the features are clearly dif cernible. This work merits notice from be ing original, as .neither Greeks nor Romans feem to have attempted veiling the face, and yet expreffing the features. The Sculp tor was Corradini. Vice undeceived, is like- wife an extraordinary group ; it reprefents a Man caught in a net, from which he is en deavouring to difengage himfelf, aided by the Genius of Good-fenfe. This group is by Queirolo. On the oppofite fide of the Chapel is a dead Chrift, covered with a veil, which feems damped by the fweat of death, an extraordinary work — likewife attributed to Corradini. This Chapel is fo devoid of tafte, that it rather refembles a Sculptor's fhop than a Maufoleum : It is always open till eleven in the forenoon : and the Vcr5;er . is BETWEEN 1792 AND I798. 83 is very thankful for a carlino, as, in fad, he has no claim upon Strangers. Palazza Caraffa — Some antiquities^ par ticularly the head of a coloflal bronze horfe ! the remaining part of which was melted down to make a bell for the Cathedral. Chiefa de S. Pietro a. Mrt/e/Za— ^Paintings on the ceiling, by Calabrefe ! Chiefa di Sa^ Maria Maggiore — ereded on the ruins of a Temple of Diana — a fine cu« pola ! Chiefa di S. Paoh Maggiore — ^This ftately edifice ftands upon the fite of an ancient Temple, fuppofed to have been ereded by Julius Tarfus, Tiberius's Frfeed-maui who dedicated it to Caftor and Pollux. Much Of this temple remained till the earthquake of 1688 ; but, now, only two columns are en tire. Thefe noble veftiges of antiquity, two bafes of other columns, and the trunks ofthe ftatues of Caftor and Pollu:£, (recumbenC figures half buried in the wall) are without a 2 Ude 84 LeTTETRS FROM ITALY, fide of the Church, the elevation of which is very elegant, and the infide beautifully - incrufted with marble, and embeliifhed with paintings by Maffimo, Belifairius, and Solimene ! The Sacrifty contains paintings by the laft-named Mafter ! The Cloifters of the adjoining Convent are embeliifhed with antique columns, and built upon the fite of an ancient Roman Theatre, where Nero firft exhibited in public. Chiefa di S. Lotenzo — Statues by Gio vanni di Nola, and fine marble columns taken from the ancient palace of the Re public. Chiefa di S. Filippo Neri — One, of the handfomeft churches in Naples — it was begun, A. D. 1586, after the defign of Denys di Bartolomeo — the outfide is of fine marble, the Infide lined with the fame, and divided into three ailes by magnificent granite columns. Near the great door is an immenfe frefco, by Giordano, of our Saviour BETWEEN ];y2 AND i;(j8. 65 Saviour chafing the Bu) ers and Sellers from the Temple ! — Over the fifth altar on thtj right-hand, is Sa. Tercla, with her Carme lites, at the foot of a crucifix, by the fame Mafter — on the oppofite fide of the aile, S. Francefco, by Guido ! — together with the Chapel of our Saviour, admired for it's architedure — and between this and the high-altar, is the Chapel of S, Filippo Nefi, containing a cupola, by Solimene, which re- pefents the Saint in glory. On the oppofite fide of the high-altar is another Chapel, the cupola of which was painted by Solimene — the fubjed being Judith flacwing Holo- phernes's head to his Army. The high- altar and it's columns are of precious mar bles, the pavement is marble, and very ele gant. In the Sacrifty are pidures attributed to Guido, Domenichino, and Palma. — Here is one of the four great Libraries of • Naples. G 3 The 86 LETTERS FROM ITALY, The Cathedral, commonly called Vefc^- vado, or, La Chiefa di S. Gennaro, the Pa tron of Naples, is an ancient Gothic Edifice, built by Nicolo Pifano, upon the ruins ofa Temple of Apollo, and afterwards repaired under Alphonfo I. in confequence of it's be ing confiderably damaged by the earthquake of 1485. — ^The outfide is cafed with beauti ful white marble, the Infide by no means fplendid — the Font is antique, and adorned with thyrfifes and mafks — ftrange orna ments for a chriftian temple ! over the high- altar is an aflumption, by Perugino. The Chapel called, II Teforo, and built in confe quence of a vow made by the City of Na ples during the Plague of 1526, is a very; fine one, it's cupola was painted by Lan franco ! The large pidure of S. Gennarq coming out of the furnace is by Spagno letto. The blood of S. Gennaro, colleded, as it is faid, by a Neapolitan Lady, during his BETWEEN 1792 AND I798. 87 his martyrdom, is kept in this chapel, and the ceremony of liquifying it performed in the months of September and May. The fubterranean Chapel of S. Gennaro, which contains his body, is fuppofed to be a re maining part of the ancient Temple of Apollo, and therefore worth notice. — Santa Refiituta, formerly the Cathedral, which joins the church of S. Gennaro, was ered ed during the reign of Conftantine, and is fiipported by Corinthian columns, probably taken from the Temple of Apollo : it pof feffes no charm but it's antiquity, and is moreover exceffively damp. Chiefa de S. S. Apofioli. A handfome edi fice ereded on the fite of a Temple of Mer cury, and confecrated to the Apoftles by Conftantine; it was, however, rebuilt in 1626. Over the great door is a large frefco by Vivlani !— The cupola was painted by Binafchi, and the ceiling of the middle- aile and principal chapels by Lanfranco, Q 4 ¦Vr'hq 88 L'ETTERS FROM ITALY, who likewife did the pidures in the choir—- the nativity ofthe Madonna is by Giordano! — and the prefentation in the temple, by the fame Mafter.^The high-altar is richly orna mented, and on it's left is a celebrated baffo- rilievo by Flamingo, reprefenting a concert of Children ! !— this baffo-rilievo makes one of the ornaments of the Filomarino-Chapel,. great part of which was executed after the defigns of Guido, by Calandra de Vefceil. The Chapel of the Conception on the oppo fite fide merits notice, as does the Sacrifty. Chiefa di S. Giovanni a Carbonara, re- markable for an immenfe Gothic tomb of Lodiflas, King of Naples, another of Gio vanni Caracciolo, and likewife for the fculp ture in the Vico-Chapel. La -Vicaria merits notice, as it is curiou^ to obferve how Juftice (falfely fo called) Is adminiftered at Naples : added to w^ich, ^hls once was the royal refidence. Ofpedale di Sa. Maria Annunziata — ^This is BETWEEN 1792 AND 1/98, 89 is the richeft Hofpital at Naples, and the church belonging to it is faid to be a good piece of architedure. Chiefa di Sa. Maria del Caruivne — An af fumption, by Solimene. Adjoining to the Royal Palace is the Porce- ta'm Mivnfa^urc, which, in beauty of dc- fign and elegance of fhape, may vie with any porcelain in the world.* PaJjz-zo Berrio — In the Garden is a nele- gant little Building, containing a Group ill * Here is the celebrated antique Statue of Agrip pina, the mother of Nero, who feems to be repre fented at tbe moment when (he is told that her Son dooms her to death. The mild, pathetic, deep de- fpair, exprefled throughout the whole of this charm ing ftatue, is wonderful, and proves th-it fculpture, when carried to it's higheft pitch of excellence, can move the paffions quite as much as does the fineft poetry!!! — Here alfo are ftatues of Cariatedes — Ceres — Ifis — a Hercules in bronze ftrangliirg the fer pents, with beautiful bafli-rilievi on the pedeftal — a Mercury in bronze — antique marble vafe — ftatues of Caligula, Lucius Verus, and Marcus Aurelius — a buft of Homer I &c. — together with a fin? colleftion of Grecian vafes. Give five or fix carlini.. white go LETTERS FROM ITALY, in white marble of Venus and Adonis, faid to be the chef/d' osuvre of Canova. Here the Servants take no money. The abominable Neapolitan cuftom of throwing dead bodies, without cofiins, into burial-places under the churches, renders it dangerous for the Living to enter thofe which are moft ufed as receptacles for the Dead. Travellers who wifh to vifit the Churches beft worth notice, and leaft objedionable on the above-mentioned account, fhould con fine themfelves to Sa. Maria del Parto — S. Martino — Trinita- Maggiore — Sa. Chiara — S. Domenico-Maggiore — S. Maria del Pieta — S. Paolo-Maggiore — S. Filippo Neri — ^«S', Gennaro — and Santi Apoftoli. Naples contains feveral Theatres, name ly ; Teatro di S. Carlo — Teatro de''' Fioreti- tirf: Teatro Nuovo Teatro del Fondo — Teatro di S. Ferdinando — and Teatro di S. Carlino. S, Carlo is ufually confidered ag the BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 9I the fineft Theatre in Italy; it wa.^ built after the defign of Ametrani, and has fix rows of boxes, a fpacious parte rrc, and an immenfe ftage. The looking-glaffcs which once adorned this Theatre are now taken away, and paintings fubftituted in their ftead; thefe laft, however, are not in a good tafte. The climate of Naples differs materially in different parts of the City. Perfons who wifh for an air congenial to weak lungs fhould live in the Fouria. In Largo di Cafiello and it's environs, the air is tolerably foft ; but in the quarter of S. Jjucia, the vicinity of the fea, united with the dampnefs occafioned by a tufo-moun- tain, diredly under which the houfes are built, renders the air extremely dangerous to Invalids, and by no paeans wholefome for Perfons in good health. The houfes on the phiaia are lefs dangerous than thofe in the quarter of S. Lucia, becaufe further re moved Q2 LETTERS FROM .ITALY, moved from the tufo-mountain ; but their fituation is too much expofed for Perfons afilided with weak lungs, befides which the fun upon the Chiala is unwholefome. Great care fhould be taken by Foreigners jn order to procure good water, a fcarce .commodity at Naples — ^That ot the Foun tain Medina, near Largo del Caftello, that p{ the Marinella, in the quarter of S. ILaicia, and that of the Fountain dl S. Pietro Mar- tire, is excellent ; but Perfons who do not contrive to procure water from one of thefe fountains, which are all fupplied by au equedud, incur the rifk of being attacked with a dyfentery, or fome pther putrid dif-t order. The population of Naples is fiippofed to amount tq about three hundred and fixty thoufand fouls ; forty thoufand of whom, according to many Writers, are termed La- zaroni, from having no home, and being confequently obliged to make the ftreets their BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. Q^ their fleeping-place ; this, howevei", is un true, it being quite as rare to fee the Indi gent without a bed at Naples as in any other City of Italy : the fad Is, that the Lazaroni fleep three or four in one bed, pay ing a grain each to their Landlord. There are feveral Inns, or, more properly fpeaking, Lodging-Houfes, at Naples, name ly ; the Alhergo Reale — the Lione d'oro — tlie Alhergo di IfEmperatore — the Aquila Nera — ^}ie Procele — the Villa Iir.periale — ihe Gran- Bret agna, &c. The charaderof the Neapolitans has been much miftaken by Travellers, who feem in clined to think the lower clafTes of People cunning, rapacious, profligate, and cruel ; and 'the more exalted, ignorant, ill-bred, licentious, and revengeful ; this, however, is not, generally fpeaking, true ; for the com mon people are good-humoured, open- hearted, and though paffionate, fo fond of drollery. 94 LETTERS FKOM ITALY,' drollery, that a Man 1^ the greateft.rage will fuffer himfelf to be calmed by a joke : and though a Neapolitan fometimes does an in^ jury from the firft impulfe of anger, that im pulfe paft, he never harbours malice. Thofe among the common People who have mixed much with Foreigners, are expert in bar gains and eager to extort money ; while thofe who have lived chiefly among each other difplay no fuch propenfitics : and what feems to indicate a noble difpofition is, that they all may be governed by kind words, while a contrary language never fails to fruftrate it's own purpofe. Gentlemen of the Church, Law, and Army, are tolerably well educated ; and in this middle rank may be found as much true friendfhip, as much fterling worth, and as many amiable charac ters, as in any Nation whatfocver ; neither are examples wanting, even among the No bility, of talents, erudition, and moral vir tue ; BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. QS tue ; though the Government of Naples is fo defpotic, and confequently fo jealous of rifing Merit, tliat Perfons who really poffefs power to diftinguifli themfelves feldom dare to exert it. LETTER LETTERS' FROM ITALY, LETTER XXr. Naples, September 1797.' ?nr^HE environs of Naples art extremely -«- interefting, far more fb,- indeed, than the City itfelf The Bay, which feems to have been the mouth of an extind volcano, is embelllfiied with feveral beautiful Iflands ; while, on it's w^efterh fide, lie Paufillpo> Fuzzuolij Balas, &o. ; aad to the eaft, Por tici, Stabia, Pasfturn, and Sorrento. The Bay of N aples was formerly more extenfive: than it is at prefentj as appears from the" fituation of two ancient Light- Houfes, both of which, now, are adually in the heart of the City: the ruins of the moft ancient may be feen-behind the Church of & Ono~ frio de' Vecchif the other ftood on the fite of Gesii Nuova, I will BETWEEN 1792 AND i;9S. Q'; \ will now mention what we found the moll convenient way of vifiting the Anti quities and Natural Curiofities in the envi rons of Naples. EXCURSION TO POMPEII, HERCULANEUM AND PORTICl. WE hired a carriage for the whole day, took a cold dinner, bread, wine, knives, forks, and glaffes, and fet out at feven in the morning for Pompeii, bargaining, how ever, with our Voiturin to ftop two or three hoxirs at Portici on our return; Pompeii is between thirteen and fourteen Englifh miles diftant from Naples ; the road lies through Portici, Torre- del-'Greco, and Torre-del- Annunzlata. You likewife pafs througlTrich vineyards, and over various ftreams of lava, poured down by Vefuvius towards the fea, in confequence of different eruptions. We drove to that fide of Pompeii which con tains the Soldiers' Barracks, where we got Vol. II. H out 98 LETTERS FROM ITALY, out of the carriage, ordering our horfes to be put up near the excavated Villa on the <^pofite fide of the Town, and our dinner to be carried to the juft-named Villa : we then walked (accompanied by the Cicerone, who is very intelligent,) through the Bar racks and all the excavated ruins near them,, and from thence croffed a large vineyard, under which is the central part ofthe Town, to an excavated Street, fuppofed to be the Appian- way'; afterwards proceeding through the gate of Pompeii to the tombs near it, and then going to the Villa above-mentioned, by far the moft curious objed of inveftiga tion yet difcovered. Wc dined in this Villa, and then fent for our carriage to take us up at the garden-gate. Pompeii was buried under afhes and pu- mice-ftones thrown out from Vefuvius, A. D. 79 ; and accidentally difcovered by fome Peafants, A. D. 1750, as they were digging in a vineyard near the River Sarno. The BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 99 The excavation of this Interefting City was attended with lefs trouble and expence than that of Herculaneum, it being buried only twelve or fifteen feet under afhes and pu- mice-ftone. On quitting your carriage you go down a fmall defcent to the Soldiers' Barracks, nearly an oblong-fquare, with a portico round it, fiipported by brick pillars ftuccoed and painted, with feveral figures in armour engraved upon them, fuppofed to have been done by the Roman Soldiers. The rooms within the portico^ are of various dimen fions, fome of the largeft being about fifteen feet fquare ; and in one of thefe (probably a prifon,) iron ftocks were found, with fke- letons ftanding in them. This part of the City contains fragments of an ancient Doric Temple, evidently of an anterior date, and In it's appearance, far more fimply majeftic, than the reft of the yet excavated build ings : within this Temple is an altar, and JI 2 Without" 100 LETTERS FROM ITALY, without-flde, near the entrance, another. The building in general feems to have been compofed of a fort of tufo formed by depo- fitlons from water, and the fame with that of which the temples at Pasftum are built. Nearly adjoining to the Doric Temple, is an open Theatre, originally lined throughout with beautiful white marble : that part which held the Spedators is of a feml-cir- cular form, and on cither fide, near the ftage, is a confular- feat : the orcheftra is enclofed within two ftraight walls, and di vides the ftage from the fpedators : the ftage is very wide, tut fo fliallow, that little or no fccncry could have been ufed : it had three entrances all in front, and behind wera the green-room, &c.,. That part where the Spedators fat, is built on the fide of a hill, according to the cuftom ofthe Greeks, and on the top of this hill were covered colo nades for the Spedators to retire into when it rained — thefe colonades probably ferved at BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 101 at other times for a public walk, as they commanded a fine view of Capri, Stabia, &c. The different cluffcs of People afcended this Theatre by dlftcrent ftalr- cafes and lobbies, all of which feem to have been very conve nient. Nearly adjoining to the juft-de- fcribcd Theatre is another, not fo large, though in moft refpeds fimilar, except that it is faid to have been covered, but whether with an awning or a roof, does not appear.- The Temple of Ifts is in higher prrefervation- than many other ofthe ruins, and efpecially worth notice; for, to contemplate thofe altars from whence fo many oracles have iffued, to trace the very hiding-place into which the Priefts fqueezed themfelves when thev fpoke for the ftatue ofthe Goddefs, nay, to difcover the fecret ftairs by which they afcended into t'tie fanSlumfanSi or um ; in fhort, to examine the conftrudion of a Temple evidently built long before Pompeii was deftroyed, is furely • a moft interefting fpeculation. Inftruments H 3 foa" 102 LETTERS FROM ITALYj, for facrifice, candelabres, &c, with the fkele-r tons of Priefts, thought tp have been feafl?- ing at the time of the eruption, were found here. It appears that this temple had been ^eftroygd by an earthquake previous to the general overthrow of thp city, feyeral ftumps of columns which feem originally to have fiipported the Ijuilding being ftill difceruir ble: this earthquake is mentioned by Ser neca ;,it happened in the year 63 w The pilr lars now landing arc compofed of brick ftuccoed and paiuted, the capitals are the farne— rthe whole building likewife is ftuc coed, painted, and beautifully polifhed with-. in and without— the floor is mofaic, The houfes already excavated are, generally fpeaking, on a fmall fcale ; inofl of them, however, were evidently nothing more than fhops, arid the habitations of Shopkeepers. Some few which feeni tp have belonged to Perfons pf a l^igher clafs are adorned with a handfome portico ij4 front, fupported by Dorii? BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. lOS Doric columns, a large entrance, or hall, with a fountain in It's centre, and on the fides, bed-rooms which appear to have had little or no light except what came fromthe hall. In one houfe, which feems to hav8» been three ftories high, there are three halls, and three fountains; indeed, wherever there is one of thefe courts, or halls, there ivever fails to be a fountain in the middle of it. The pillars of every portico are compofed of brick fluccoed and painted — the rooms are ftuccoed, painted, and beautifully varnifh* ed-^the roofs arched, with terraces on the top — the floors mofaic, ai>d fcarce two of them alike. The windows were generally dofed with wooden fhutters; fome few, however, had glafs, which feems to have been thick, and not tranfparent — others had ifinglafs fplit into thin plates. The paintr ings in the fhops and very fmall houfes feem nearly as elegant as in the large ones. The boufes ufually pointed out to Travellers H 4 qontaini ip4 LETTERS FROM ITALY, contain— -Firft houfe— a. lion on the door- fill, in mofaic — a fountain in the middle of the yard. Second houfe — various paintings, namely, a Woman feated, reading a fcroU ¦ — a landfcape — comic and tragic mafks — ^a pretty bed-room with paintings on the walls, reprefenting Venus attired by the Graces^, and Venus and Adonis— here, likewife, is a painting of a white ftag faftened to a co lumn, and an altar adorned with trophies emblematical of his death. Third houfe— two fnakes, emblems of longevity, done in rnpfaic at the entrance. Fourth houfe — Salve, " welcome," in mofaic on the tljrefhold, and a curious labyrinth, or table for playing at an ancient game, in the c(ir\- tre of one of theflooirs* — paintings repre fenting an altar, with a cock prepared for fiicrifice, and inftruments for facrifice lying by-— a figure .of ^Efculapius, and another o( * The two juft-named mofaics feem to indicate that {hj^ hou(e was an inn. ' , . Mars BETWEEN i;g2 AND 1798. 105 MarS' — a Lady dreffing her hair — fighting Gladiators — a dancing Bacchante — a fine bull's head — fifli — flowers — poultry — and Cupid pia) lag on the tibia. In one of the houfes likewife is a painting of a Grecian Temple, adorned with twenty fluted Doric pillars. One of the fliops (in appearance a foap-boller's) had fbap found in it — another fliop evidently was a coffee-houfe, and the marks of the cups ftill remain upon the marble drefler. Without-fide of another fhop are Hebrew charaders, (not written vnth vovyel-ppints) and other oriental cha raders, which do not feem to be Hebrew. The iron- work of a calafh, apparently like thofe ufed at prefent in Naples, was found in the court of a houfe. The City-Gate is highly interefting ; here is the centry-box for the Guard — a femi-clrcular feat in which the Romans ufed to affemble and converfe • — and a couple of tombs — all in great mea- fqre perfed — near one of the tombs is a court }06 LETTERS FR,aM ITALY, court containing a ftone, on which the bodies of the Dead were burnt ; and on the walls of this court are large frigjitful eartheij mafks with weeping faces. The tomb con tains one large and feveral frnall niches for urns; the large pne is fuppofed to have been for the head of the Family.^r-The excavated Villa is more entire than any of the ruins yet laid open, feveral rooms, the garden and the cellar, beiiig quite iri their original ftate j the. laft .contains wine- veffels ceiriented to the wall by the cinders whicb overwhelmed the city, and likewife filled with them. The paintings ftill remaining In this Villa are beautiful— the hot and cold baths almoft entire — rthe kitchen entire alfo . — In fhort, by examiqing thefe apartments, you precifely afcertain the plan and manner of ornamenting a Rornan country-houfe, which feems to differ very little frpm mo dern Italian Villas, except that the ftucco Is infinitely finer than any we now fee, as like- Wife BETWEEN 1792 AND 1 798. IQ^ wife are the colours ^nd varnifh laid over them. Pompfii w^s btiilt and paved witl^ lava ; carriage- wheels have worn tracps in the pavement, arid thefe traces are only four feet wide ; neyerthelefs fo narrow are the (Ireets already excavated that there is barely room fufiicient for two carriages tp pafs each other; the ftreets have raifed foot^ ways on each fide three feet broad. Perhaps the whole world does not exhi bit fb awfld a fpedacle a§ Pompeii ; and when it was firfl difcqvere^, when fkele-r tons were found heaped together In the ftreets and houfes, wheii all the utenfils, and even the very bread of the poor fuffo-r cated Inhabitants, were difcernible, what a fpeculation muft this ill-fated City have furnifhed to a thinking mind ! — ^To vifit it even now is abfolutely to live with the an cient Romans : and when we fee houfes, fhops, fiirniture, fountains, ftreets, carriages, and implements of hufbandry, exadly fimi lar 108 LETTERS FROM ITALY, lar to thofe of the prefent day, we are apt to conclude that cuftoms and" manners have undergone but little variation for the laft two thoufand years. The cuftom of con fulting Augurs, and that of hiring Perfons to weep at funerals, are ftill kept up in the mountainous and fecluded parts of Tuf cany ; and I have frequently feen the Tuf can cattle, when deftined for flaughter, adorned with chaplets of flov/ers, precifely as the Ancients ufed to adorn their vidims for facrifice. The Roman Butchers, ' like- wife, ftill wear the drefs, and ufe the knife of heathen facrificing Priefts. The old Ro man cuftom of not eating above one re gular meal a day, and that about the ninth hour of Italy, (three o'clock with us), is kept up by many of the Italians : and during the uio.nth of May it is common to fee Shepherds drclfed as in ancient times like Pan, Satyrs, &c. I do not, how ever, mean to infer from what I have faid, that BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. lOQ that modern Italians equal the Ancients in works of art ; for, in this refped, there feems as much ditferencc between the pre fent Race and their Forefathers, as there was between the ancient Romans and their Teachers, the Greeks. Not more than from forty to fifty fkelcr tons have yxt been found in Pompeii — one third of the town only, however, is yet un covered ; but the excavations are going on daily ; and a new Street with a noble Por tico have very lately been laid open. For a coach and four horfes to Pompeii the ufual price is eight ducats — biwna-mano twelve or fifteen' carlini for two Drivers — to tiie Boy who carries yoiir dinner to the Villa it IS ufual to give two carlini— to the Man who throv/s warer on the paintings, one or two carlini — to the Guide one ducat. The time ufually cn:iployed in going is two hours — in feeing Pompeii four ]}ours — and in J 10 LEiTTERS :rROM ITALY, -in returning to Portlel, one 'hour and a half Previous to vifiting the Mufeum at Por tici we defcended Into Herculaneum. This city, according to Dionyfius of Hali- carna^us, was founded by Hercules. The Alexandrian Chronicle mentions it's having been built fixty years before the fiege of Troy — Pliny and Florus mention It as a great and flourifhing city ; and fome Au thors Gonjedur? that it was the Capua whofe luxuries ruined Hannibal's Army. Dion Caffius fpeaks thus of it's deftrudion, which happened on the 24th of Auguft, A. D, 79. " An incredible quantity of cinders, carried by the wind, filled air, earth, and fea, fuffocating Men, flocks, birds, and fifh, and burying two entire cities, namely, Herculaneum and Pompeii, while their Inhabitants were feated in the Theatres." The People of Herculaneum, however, BETWEEN 1792 AND I798. Ill however, muft have had time to efcape, as very few fkeletons, and not much portable wealth have been found in thofe parts al ready excavated. Some parts of the city are buried fixty-eight feet deep in cinders and lava, others above one hundred. This feems, from Dion Caffius, to have been the firft great eruption of Vefuvius that the Ro mans witneffed ; though there undoubtedly were other buming mountains in the ad joining country from ages immemorial. The above-named Author fays. That the cinders and duft ejeded by Vefuvius were carried by the wind as far as Egypt : and Giuliani afferts. That in the eruption of l631, the cinders were carried to Conftantinople In fuch quantities as to terrify the Turks ex tremely. The fpot where Herculaneum ftood, was not afcertained at the beginning of the prefent century ; but, about the year 1713, a Peafant, while finking a well at Portici, found feveral pieces of antique mar ble. 112 LETTERS FROM ITALY, ble, which then happened to be fought £6t by the Prince d'Elbeuf, who was building a houfe in the neighbourhood. The Prince wanting thefe fcraps of marble to compofe a ftucco in imitation of that ufed by the Ancients, purchafad of the Peafant a right to fearch for them ; on doing which, he was recompenfed with a ftatue of Hercules, and another of Cleopatra ; this fuccefs encou raged him to proceed with ardour, when the architrave of a marble-gate, feven Gre cian ftatues refembling Veftals, and a round Temple encompaffed by twenty-four alabaf ter columns without-fide, the fame number within, and likewife embeliifhed with fta tues, were the reward of his labour : in fhort, the produce of thefe excavations be came confiderable enough to attrad the at tention of Government, in confequence of which the Prince d'Elbeuf was ordered to defift, and all refearches were given up till the year 17 30, when Don Carlos, on be coming BETWEEN 1792 AND I79S. 113 coming King of Naples, wiflied to build a palace at Portici, and purchafed of the Prince d'Elbeuf, his lately ereded houfe, together with the ground from whence he had taken fo many valuable antiquities. The King now made an excavation eighty feet deep, and foon difcovered an entire City buried in the earth, together with the bed of a river, which ran through it, and even part of the water ; he alfo difcovered the Temple of Jupiter, containing a ftatue reputed to be gold ; and afterwards laid open the Theatre, diredly over which the Peafant's well was found to have been funk. The infcriptions on the doors of the Thea- ..tre, fragments of bronze horfes gilt, and of the car to which they belonged (decora tions probably of the grand entrance), toge ther with large numbers of ftatues, columns and pidures, were now brought to light ; neyerthelefs, inthe year 1765, not more than fifty Labourers were employed in Vol. II. I making 114 LETTERS FROM ITALY, making thefe valuable excavations ; in 1769 the number was reduced to ten, and in 1776 to three or four. Refina and Portici being built immediately over Herculaneum, the Workmen could not venture to exca vate as they would have done had the fur face of the earth been lefs encumbered; confequently the plans of Herculaneum, and it's edifices, are not accurate : it is, however, known that the ftreets are ftraight, haying on either fide raifed foot- ways like thofe of London, and being paved with the fame kind of lava as that which is now thrown up by Vefuvius. The moft confi derable edifice yet difcovered is a Forum or Chalcidicum — this building feems to have been a redangular court, two hiindred and twenty-eight feet long, and encompaffed with a portico fiipported by forty-two co lumns ; it was paved with marble, and adorned with paintings — the portico of en trance was compofed of five arcades orna mented BETWEEN 1792 AND I798. US mented with equeftrian ftatues of marble, two of which, namely, the famous Balbl, are preferved. Oppofite to the entrance, and elevated upon three fteps, was the ftatue of the Emperor Vefpafian, and on either fide a figure in a curule chair : in the w^all were niches adorned with paintings, and bronze ftatues of Nero and Germanicus ; there likewife were other bronze dnd mar ble ftatues in the portico. Thia Forum joined by means of a colonade to two tem ples, in form redangular, and one of them one hundred and fifty feet long — the inte rior part of thefe was omamented with co lumns, frefcos, and infcriptions in bronze ; and near theTemplcs is an open Theatre, large enough to contain ten thoufand Spedators. The front of the ftage feems to have been decorated with columns, ftatues, and other ornaments in fculpture. The profcennium was found entire, and is one hundred and thirty feet long. Part of the ftage, and the 1 2 bafe Il6 LETTERS FROM ITALY, bafe of one of the columns of flowered ala bafter, with which it was adorned, were likewife difcovered; and in front of the ftage, according to De la Lande, were bronze ftatues of the Mufes. Fragments alfo were found of feveral bronze horfes, fuppofed to have decorated the wall which terminated the feats. This fpacious Thea tre appears to have been lined with Parian marble, and built about the fame time with that at Verona after the defign of Numl- fius. The houfes hitherto excavated In Herculaneum are found to have been ufu ally paved with bricks three feet long and fix inches thick, and the walls of the rooms were chiefly painted in tempera. The gene rality of the People do not feem to have had glazed windows, though fome excellent plate-glafs has been found in Herculaneum, and may be feen in the Mufeum at Portici. The excavations at Herculaneum are now fo much filled up, that it is fcarcely worth a Traveller's BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. H? a Traveller's while to defcend into them ; part of the Theatre, however, may ftill be feen; but, as a model of the whole is placed in the Mufeum at Portici, and as the air of Herculaneum is heavy and damp almoft to be dangerous, Perfons with weak lungs fhould on no conftdf ration go down. MUSEUM OF PORTICI. In order to fee this colledion of all the moft valuable ftatues, paintings, vafes, &c, which were found in Herculaneum, Pom peii, and Stabia, it is neceffary to obtain a permiffion ofthe King, through the medium of your ambaffador ; and this permiffion en titles you to admittance for one year ; every day, fefias excepted, from nine till twelve in the forenoon, and from three till fiye or fix in the afternoon. The lower-rooms ofthe Mufeum, which contain the Paintings, are damp and cold — -the upper apqrtments, which contain the bronze Sta|;ties, Vafes, &c. 3re tolerably warm. jEach floor has a XZ Cufiodi, 118 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Cufiodi, and' both thefe Gentlemen exped fix carlini. *. Cowt below flairs — ^Two Horfes' * As Strangers are not allowed to take minutes of ^he paintings, &c. in this Mufeum, it is impoffible to give an accurate lift of the contents of each room ; J will therefore endeavpur to recolleft and mention the moft ftriking things • at. the fame time adding a, further account of the paintings, collefted from en gravings which h^e been publiflied by roy^l autho rity. The paintings are all in tempera ; and judging from the beauty of the compofition, and the unikilfulnefs of the executi-on, it is probable that many of thera are copies done by common Houfe- Painters from the moft renowned pjftures of antiquity. The compofition of the Bacchantes, Mnfes, and other fmall figures, is fitid to be fo exquifite, that were an Artift to ftudy for years he could not change one fold in the drapery to 3,ny advantage ; and the execution is faid to be fo bad, that more than an hour could fl,ot have been cui- ployed upon each figure. Anti-rooms below-flairs — bronze Statues. Apart^ ments which contain the Paintings — the fubjefts of the naoft celebrated paintings arc fuppofed to be — Dido abandoned by ^Eneas ! — a domeftic repaft — the feven days of the week, reprefented by the feven planets, beginning with Saturday, (namely, Saturn clothed In yellow, and holding a fcythe — Sunday, Apollo with a whip, like a Chaiioteer— -Monday, Diana BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. II9 Horfes' Heads in bronze — and, under au arch ofthe Royal Palace, on the right-hand fide Diana with white robes and a fceptre — Tuefday, Mars armed — Wednefday, Mercuiy with a winged bonnet faftened under his chin — Thurfday, Jupiter in red without his thunder — and Friday, Venus in white, witli a crown of rofes on her head, and a winged Love by her fide) — Thefeus with tlie Minotaur dead at his feet— Hercules and Telephus — ^Telephus fuckled by a deer, or Latinus, fon of Faunus, King of the Abori gines, an allegorical painting relative to the origin ofthe Romans — the Centaur Chiron teaching Achilles to ftrike the lyre, afcribed to Parrhafius, though more probably copied from a work of that Artift ! — Her cules ftrangling the ferpents fent by Juno to deftroy him — Iphigenia difcovering Oreftes — Oreftes and Pylades chained, and condufted by the Soldiers of King Thoas before the ftatue of Diana — a parrot drawing a car, and a grafshopper driving, thought to be a copy from Zeuxis, who vvas famous for thefe whimfical fubjefts ! — a Faun carefling a Bacchante — fmall piftures of Rope-dancers, Bacchantes, &c. ! one of whom holds a mufical inftrument ufed by the Neapolitans to this day — a Bacchante carried off by a Centaur — another Centaur carrying off" a young Man — Apollo and the Mufes ! — two outlines upon marble, the one reprefents Thefeus killing the Centaur, the other female figures with their names written over them ; this ftyle of drawing is fuppofed to be very an- I 4 cient — 120 LETTERS FROM ITALY, fide as you quit the Mufeum, is the cele-« brated equeftrian Statue of Marcus Nonius Balbus, cient — fmall paintings reprefenting Children engaged jn various occupations — animals — birds — fiflies — ^ fruits, &c. — One of thefe apartments contains the model of the Theatre qf Herculaneum. ^^ar/w^K^i up-flairs — thefe rooms are floored with marbles and mofaic-pavements found in Herculaneum and Pom peii— ;thcy contain — bronze vafes pf exquifite work- manfliip inlaid with filver !^inftruments fpr facrifice, among which is a briifti fuppqfed to have been ufed in fprinkling holy water, and precifely like what the Roman-Catholics ufe now — a haiflernium., or couch for the Gods, compofed of bronze inlaid with filver I .^-a bronze altar — a curule chair of bronze, found iq the Theatre at Herculaneum — bronze tripods, one of which is particularly beautiful ! — fantaftic lamps out of number — a lanthern — vafes of terra-cota, fome of which are as thin as the flighteft glafs — inftruments of hufbandry, like thofe now ufed in Italy — bells for cattle — chirurgical inftrpments, but not one lancet-^ a bronze mirror — ftyles, pens of cedar- wood, a cafe for the ftyles, inkftands, with ink in them — tablets — letters for ftamping bread, &c. which muft have been ufed in a manner fo nearly like printing, that one wonders fuch an invention fliould npt have occurred to the Ancients — nails, fcrews, locks, keys, latches, bolts, hinges, &c. much like thofe in prefent ufe — dice, fome of them loaded — inftruments pf mufic — childrens' BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 121 Balbus, jun. faid to be the moft perfed work of it's kind yet difcovered ; it is of Greek childrens' tops— a bronze toy reprefenting a one-horfe chaife, the form fimilar to a Warrior's car — tickets for the Theatre — glafs, fome of which is as clear and gopd as our's — utenfils for the baths, among which are knives to fcrape off the perfpiration from the fkin, elegant effence-bottles, &c ^variety of fcales, weigh's, and meafures ; the pound feems, like that of Naples, to have been between ten and eleven ounces ; many of the weights are beautifully ornamented with heads, &c. — a kitchen completely furniflied with bronze utenfils, chiefly lined with filver, marble mor tars, an iron gridiron, a variety of elegant bronze moulds for paftry, &c. — portable bronze forneaux, re markably convenient — bronze boilers — candelabres, near five feet high, and particularly elegant — combs, a thimble, rouge, rings, necklaces, ear-rings, brace- Jets, pins for the hair^ — ornaments, called bulla, worn by young Patricians till they were permitted to afllime the toga — coins, intaglios, and cameos — filver cups and faucers — knives of good fteel — gold plate — filver fpoons, but no forks — various eatables retaining their form though fcorched to a cinder, namely, corn, flour, bread, apy.e in it's baking-pan, wheat, peas, almonds, dates, beans, nuts, figs, grapes, eggs, fifli, oil, and wine ; — lace made entirely of gold — burnt linen, burnt nets ! — colours for painting — armour, fo heavy that the ^rongeft modern Man would fink under half it's weight 122 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Greek marble ! ! ! Oppofite to this ftatue Is that of M. N. Balbus, fen. which was found in weight^ — a fword and fhield — near 800 manufcripts fo burnt that it is fcarcely poflible to unroll them (Per fons who vifit the Mufeum about nine or ten in the morning, may fee the procefs of unrolling thefe manu fcripts.) Some of the moft celebrated ftatues and bufts are — a drunken Faun repofing on a flcin of wine — Mercury feated I ! ! — two Wreftlers — a fleeping Faun — a fmall bronze equeftrian ftatue, fuppofed to be Alexander and Bucephalus — bufts of Plato, Scipio, Seneca, and Ptolemy — feveral ftatues and lamps unfit to be publicly expofed, are fo placed as not to be feen, unlefs enquired for. FURTHER DESCRIPTION OF THE PAINTINGS. A female Centaur with a Nymph (Zeuxis is fupi. pofed to have invented female Centaurs) — a Centaur teaching a Youth to play on the lyre — a Centaurefs with a young Man, flie holds a cymbal of gilt-bronze, the thrones of Venus and Mars, with their attributes, are in the fame pifture .'-—Boys making wine ; this painting exhibits an ancient wine-prefs-.— Boys en gaged in other occupations — a naval combat, ill done, but curious, becaufe it fhews the ancient galleys, and the mode of fighting them ! — another pifture of gal leys — a landfcape with trees and a temple, in the cen tre of which laft is a buckler ornamented with Me dufa's head ; it being an ancient cuftom to fufpend vo tive BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 123 in a broken ftate, and has therefore been reftored ; it is faid, however, ftill to poffefs great merit, and likewife is of marble. Tlie tive bucklers in public edifices — an Egyptian land fcape — a crocodile-hunt — crocodiles and hippopota- mufes, (from the latter, fays Pliny, Man learnt the art of bleeding himfelf, as this animal, when too full of blood, prefles it's foot againft pointed reeds, by which means the operation is performed) — Venus feated between Pallas and Juno — the education of Bacchus ! (fuppofed to be the copy of a fine original) .—Pan wreftling with Cupid — Ariadne abandoned by Thefeus— Ariadne fleeping, vifited by Bacchus — Caf fandra fought out by Apollo, or Iphegenia ready for facrifice ! (fuppofed to be the copy of a fine originalj — a Wuman offering atthe flirine pf Bacchus — Marfyas vanquifhed by Apollo — a concert of Bacchantes — a garden-^a religious ceremony, probably in honour of Bacchus^— another Bacchanalian ceremony, in which three figs are offered to the God, the number three being facred and typical among the Heathens — other Bacchanalian ceremonies — a tyger playing with a fer pent — two figures, the one a Woman, the other a Greek Poet, or Philofopher — two young Men crown ed — an Hermaphrodite — hunts of aninuls — a female figure with wings, fuppofed to be either Hebe, Refina and Torre-del-Greco furnifh a fpeculation little lefs curious than Herculaneum and Pompeii. Many houfes ftill remain encir cled with, and buried two ftories deep In lava ; many more have been excavated and rebuilt upon their former foundations; though the lava ftill continues fo hot in feveral places as to kindle a torch : while the poor cottagers, whofe all was deftroyed by the eruption, are now become Cicerones to the enquiring Traveller, whom they in form of every little circumftance relative to the chaos by which he is fiirrounded. In fhort, whether one would wifh to examine the wonders of the mountain, or to fee in what manner fo many cities have been de molifhed by this dangerous neighbour, our curiofity cannot fail of being gratified at Refina and Tojrre-del-Greco. Invalids 138 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Invalids fhould not attempt to afcend Vefu vius, hut content themfelves with the fight of the two laft-named Toxvns. We gave to Bartolommeo, the Cicerone of the Mountain, twenty carlini. I cannot difmifs this fubjed without mentioning a very extraordinary circum ftance which occurred at Pienza, near Ra- dicofani, juft before the deftrudion of Tor re-del-Greco. Mr. Santi, Profeffor of Na tural Hiftory at Pifa, refided at Pienza when this circumftance happened : and to him I was obliged for the following particulars, which may ferve to refcue many ancient Hiftorians from the reproach of credulity. On the lOth of June, a denfe and blackifh cloud was difcovered at a great height aboye the horizon, coming from the fouth-eaft, that is, in the diredion of Ve fuvius, which may be about two hundr-ed horizontal miles diftant from Pienza. From this height the cloud was heard to iffue noifes BETWEEN 1792 .AND I798. 139 noifes like the difcharge of feveral batteries of cannon ; it then burft into flames, at which moment fell a fliower of ftones for feven or eight miles round, while the cloud gradually vanifhed. Thefe ftones are vol canic, being compofed of grcyifh lava, re fembling what is found on Vefuvius ; and Mr. Santi, who took infinite pains to in- vefligate this phzenomenon, is perfuaded that the cloud rofe from Vefuvius, which was, at that moment, difgorging fires whofe force and effeds cannot be calculated : it could not have rifen from Radicofani, be caufe, though this mountain is one con tinued mafs of volcanic rocks, which be fpeaks it the offspring of fubterranean fire ; and though it has been fometimes vifited by dreadful earthquakes, ftill, neither hif tory nor even tradition records it's having ejeded flames, fmoke, or \ apour, at any period whatfbe^r, EXCUR- 140 LETTERS FROM ITALY, EXCURSION TO PiESTUM. We hired an eafy ftrong Voiturin's car riage, with four ftout horfes, and articled with our Voiturin that he fhould fend for ward a relay of horfes to take us from Sa lerno to Paeftum. We fet out at fix in the moming, drove to Salerno, in diftance thirty miles, faw the ancient Temple of Nocera, and the beautiful country about Salerno, celebrated by the Poets of the Auguftan age, flept at the laft mentioned Town, and next day, as soon as it was light, proceeded to Pasftum, in diftance thirty miles, during the laft five of which we found the road bad. We took a cold din ner, wine, bread, knives, and forks, in our carriage, and dined in one of the Temples. Pasftum, fuppofed to be the ancient Poffi- donia of the Greeks, is celebrated by Virgil for it's rofes which bloomed twice in a ) ear. Here are ftately ruins of three Doric Temples, the BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 141 the moft ancient, it Is imagined, in the yet known world. Thefe venerable and in terefting remains of Grecian magnificence, after being long forgotten, were difcovered in 1 755, by a young painter of Naples, who once more brought them into public notice. The largeft Ruin feems to contain a temple within a temple, and is orna mented by two rows of fluted pillars, formed of a compofition not unlike fine w^ooden tubes, cemented by fmall particles of ftone. The inner-temple confifted of two ftories, though only two pillars be longing to the upper-ftory now remain. The City-Walls may ftill be traced, their form feems to have been nearly fquare, and they are broad enough to admit two carriages abreaft. The Gates, and three of the Towers, are likewife difcoverable ; two of the laft being In ruins, the other per fed. The temples of Paeftum were ereded before thofe of Athens, or any other city of 142 LETTERS FROM ITALY, of what is now" called Greece. After din ner we went back to Salerno, and next moming returned to Naples. Perfons who do not objed to the fea, wHI find the following a ftill more ' conve nient way of vifiting Paeftum : Dine early, hire a carriage, and drive to Vltrl, where the Inn is tolerably comfortable ; fleep there, firft making your bargain with a boatman of the place to fet out for Paeftum at day break the next morning. A boat generally cofts one ducat, and every Waterman four carlini — it Is advifable to have eight or ten " Watermen. Take a cold dinner in the boat, dine at Paeftum, and return to Vitri in the evening ; fleep there, and go to Naples next day. The diftance frem Na ples to Vitri is computed to be twenty-five miles — from Vitri to Peeftum, thirty. LETTER BETWEEN 1792 AND 1708. 143 w LETTER XXII. Naples, September 179 7. EXCURSION TO BAIA, &C. E fet out at nine in the morning, having previoufly hired a clofe car riage, for eight hours, to convey us to Poz- zuoH, and wait there till we had taken the ufiial round. We then drove through the Grotto of Paufilipo, drawing up our glaffes while we paffed that part neareft to Poz;zu- oli. Mention is made of this Gfotto by Strabo, Seneca, Pliny, &c. ; but by whom it was formed, feems uncertain ; it's length Is computed to be 23 16 feet, its breadth 22, and its height. In the moft lofty part, 89. II. We obferved the Ifland of Nifida, for merly Nefis, where Marcus Brutus had a Villa, mentioned by Cicero in his letters to Atticus: and III. By 144 LETTERS PROM ITALY,. III. By the way, and on the riglit of the high-road, we faw the torrent of lava that flowed from the Solfaterra when an adive "volcano. iv. At Pozzuoli We engaged a Cicerone^ (a Man named Tobias is -deemed the beft) bidding him hire a, boat for Baia,^ Mif©- jaum, &c. and whilft it was getting ready, we vifited the Temple dedicated to the Sun, under the name of Jupiter- -S^r-^^^j, (holy Apis), a magnificent Edifice, built in the Auguftan agCi This Temple was partly thrown down and completely buried by aii earthquake ; but fortunately difcovered be tween fifty and fixty years fince, by a pea fant, who efpied the top of one of the pillars half a foot above ground ; in con fequence of which, excavations were be gun, and the Temple found, almoft en tire: indeed, had thofe parts which wera thrown down by the earthquake been re ftored to their proper places, this building, would BETWEEN 1792 AND 1708. 145 would have exhibited the moft perfed, and one of the nobleft veftiges of antiquity jet difcovered — But, alas ! the Kings of Spain and Naples, inftead of reftorlng, or even leaving things in the ftate they found them, have taken away pillars, ftatues, all, in fhort, that they deemed worth removing ; neither have they excavated fufficiently ; as the front of the principal entrance, and, perhaps, great part of the temple, is ftill buried. Enough, however, meets the eye to form one of the moft interefting objed^ imaginable. V. We embarked, and pafled between the piers of the ancient Mole of Pozzuoli, to which Caligula joined his bridge of boats, as mentioned by Seneca, &c. VI. We landed at Mifenum. The Villa of Caius Marius ftood upon the extrernity of this Promontory. Mifenum was the prln^ cipal harbour of the Romans in the Tyrr hene fea, as Ravenna was in the Adriatic ; Vol. II. L and 14(5 LETTERS FROM ITALY, and in the formpr of thefe ports Pliny the elder commanded the Ropaan fleet, wher^ there happened that eruptiou of Yefuviu'^ which deftroyed Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Stabia. VIL We faw the Grotto Tragonare, a vaft Refervoir under the Promontory. VIII. The Fifh-pqnds of Lucullus, exca- yated under the weft-fide of the Promon-^ tory. IX. The Thcsatre of Mifenum ; part of the Corridors, the declivity for the feats^ 9,nd a little of the profcunium ftill remain ; and in the adjoining field arc two fragments ofthe entablature. X. The Stygian Lake, for fuch, accord ing to Virgil, is the prefent Mare-mortp, or third Bafin of this Port. XI. The banks of this Bafin, called hi^ Elyfian fields. XII. The fepulchral Monument^ of Mi fenum. We afcended to the fummit of thefe |3ank?4 BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 147 banks, which commands an interefting profped of the Styx, &c. — adjoining are the remains of a Villa of Lucullus' s, where Tiberius died. The fubftrudions of this Villa, and the celebrated Refervoir, now called the Plflna merabile, confifting of forty- eight piers, merit notice. ^, XIII. We went to the Villa of Horten- fius, the Contemporary and Rival of Cicero, and faw the Cento Camerele, or Carene di Nerone, which were the Refervoirs of this Villa. Immediately beneath the Promon tory are Hortenfius's Pifcini, or Fifh-ponds, the foundations of which may ftlH be dif cerned under water. XIV. We walked through the Village of Bauli, and obfervxd, on both fides of the road, remains of fepulchral monuments. XV. We vifited the Villa of Agrippina. What is called Ilfepulcro di Agrippina, feems to have been nothing more than a corridor of the Theatre belonging to the Villa. Ta- L 2 citus 148 If^ETTERS FRO:^ ITALY, citus fays, fhe was privately buried here;, after having been killed by order of her Son, Nero ; but the identical fpot which enclofed her remajns is not afcertained. W^ ^"^"' barked here, and landed at XVI. Baia, to fee the Temple of Venus^ circular within and odagon without, a beau tiful ruin. Behind this Temple are Baths, now called Le Camere di Venere — here are fome fine ftucco ornaments, and aeljolning to them, the ruins of feveral public baths. XVII. We went to the Temple of Mer cury, and the adjoining Baths. ThisTem- ple is circular, with an aperture in the; dome, fimilar to that of the Pantheon. XVIII. We vifited the Temple of Di ana Ba'iana, a fine ruin ; and then embark ing, paffed under the Villa of Julius Casfar, fituated upon the north point of the Bay of Baia. XIX. We landed at Nero's Villa, by thp Lucrine Lake, to fee the Vapour-Baths^ which BETWEEN ];92 AND 1/08. 149 which are fo hot that no Invalid fhould attempt penetrating irtto them — the water boils an egg in two minutes. Thefe Va pour-Baths are ufed by the Neapolitans dur ing fummer. XX. We obferved the Lucrine Lake, celebrated by the Latin Poets for its excel lent o}'fters. XXI. Paffed under Monte Nuovo, formed in the fpace of forty-eight hours, A. D. 1538, by a A-olcanic explofion. XXII. Vifited the Lake AvefnuS — this is the Tartarus of Virgil, defcribed in the 6th book of the Eneid. We obferved on it^ banks, the Temple of Proferpine; after- Wards paffing through the Grotto of the Cumean Sibyl, which led from Tartarus to the Coxytus, Acheron, Styx, Elyfium, &c. This Grotto contains what are called the Sibyl's Baths. Agrippa opened a canal of communica tion between the Avernus and the Lucrine i- L 3 Lake, 150 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Lake, forming of both the Julian Port. We then returned to our boat, and failed back to pozzuoli. We paid to our Boatmen, buona-mam inclufive, twenty carlini — to our Cicerone ten — at the Temple of Ser-Apia one — at the Baths of Nero three — at the Temple of Venus half a carlino^ — ^at the Temple of Mercury ditto — and at the Pifcina mirabile ditto. It is no bad fcheme to fail back from Pozzuoli to Naples, if the wind ferve. Wc carried a cold dinner with us when wc ipade this excurfion, which took up eight hours. EXCURSION TO CUMA, &C. We hired a calafli* fbr feven hours; fet out at nine in the morning for the gate of Pozzuoli ; and when arrived there, fent for Tobias, the Cicerone, proceeding with * A clofe carriage is better for Invalids, on account «f pafling the Grotto of Paufilipo. BETWEEN 1792 AND I798. 251 hlrti to the Solfaterra, where We faw the procefs of making alum, vitriol, and fal- ammoniac, from the volcanic fubftances within the crater. II. We defcended to the Amphitheatre, of w^hich there are confiderable remains : then vifiting the ruins of the public Baths, and the adjoining Temple of Diana, which is circular vrithin, quadrangular without, and which conftitutes part of the Baths : III. We proceeded to Campagna, and examined the fepulchral monuments of the ancient Pozzuoli, (Puteoli) which are fitu ated along; the Via Corifularis that led from Puteoli to Cuma. Part of the ancient pave ment ftill remains : thefe tombs are circu* lar within, and have three rows of white niches. IV. We faw the Villa di Cicerone, now a wine-cellar, there being fcarcely any vef tiges of thofe ftately porticos and fpacious gardens -defcribed by Pliny. Cicero called L 4 this 152 LETTERS FROM ITALY, this Villa the Academia having here com pofed his academic queftions. Here died the Emperor Adrian, to whofe memory Antoni nus Pius ereded a temple' inftead of a tomb. V. On the road to. the Arco-Felice, we ftopped to fee an interefting and pidurefquc view from the banks of the Lake Avernus, comprehending Monte-Nuovo,. the Temple qf Proferpine, the entrance into the Sibyl's Grotto, the Lucrine Lake, part of Baia, Mifenum, Capri, &c. ; and between this place and the Arco-Felice, we met with traces of the Aquedud which conveyed v/ater to Cuma, and the neighbouring Villas. VI. Wc examined the Arco-Felice, or Gate of Cuma, which ferved alfo for Cita del and Aquedud. From its fummit, pro vided the atmofphcre be clear, you have a fine view of the neighbouring Iflands of Ifchia, Ventoliani, Ponce, &c. ; as alfo of the Circean Promontory. Ventoliani was the BETWEEN 1702 AND 1 798. 153 the ancient Pandatana, whither Julia was baniflied. VII. We paffed along one of the ancient ftreets of Cuma, where are fome remains of houfes, &c. VIII. Saw the Caftle of Cuma, built in the Greek ftyle, wath large flones. When Alaric, King of the Weftragoths, fubdued this Country, in the fifth century, he de pofited the fpoils of his conquefts here, as a place of ftrength. IX. Afcended the hill over the fea-fhore, where, according to Virgil, Daedalus alight ed after his flight from Crete, confecrated his wings to Apollo and built a Temple, of which, however, no veftiges remain. From the fummit of this hill you have the Ache ron towards the fouth, and about four miles to the north the Torre- di-Palria, which laft ftands on the fite of the ancient Linternum, whither Scipio Africanus retired, and where he died. Tarquin the proud died at Cuma. We 154 LETTERS FROM ITAL*, We then returned through Pozzuoli t& Naples. At the Amphitheatre we gave five grains — T-at th©. fepulchral monuments, one carlina — and to the Cicerone, ten carlini. — ^We carried a cold dinner from Naples, when we made this excurfion. EXCURSION TO THE LAKE D'aGNANO, &C. We hired a Calafh for four hours, drove to the Village immediately beyond the Grotto of Paufilipo, enquired for the Keeper ofthe Grotto del Cane, and told him wc were going thither. I. However, ftopping at the Lago dAg- nano, once the crater of a volcano, as ap pears by its form, and likewife by the vol canic fubftances that compofe its environs. On the banks of this Lake are fome remain* - of a Villa of Lucullus's, namely, the Sub- ftrudions of Baths, &c. This fplendid Ro man opened a communication between the fea BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 15S fea and the above named Lake, which he canverted into a fifh-pond. On the Lake are thoufands of wild-fowl, the referved game for his Sicilian Majefty: and con tiguous to the ruins of Lucullus's Villa are the Vapour-Baths of S. Germano, frequent ed during fummer, by Perfons afflided with the rheumatifm. II. We proceeded to the Grotto del Cane, the fixed air of which throws a dog into convulfions, extinguifhes a lighted torch, and prevents a piftol from going off. III. Went to the Pifciarelli, a rivulet of boiling water iffuing out of the foot of the cone of the Solfaterra, and, in diftance about a mile from the Lago d Agnano. The water will boil eggs in eight minutes; it is ftrong ly Impregnated with alum and vitriol, the latter of which preponderates to fuch a de gree as to produce ink when mixed with galls. Every little aperture in the earth round 1S5 LETTERS FROM ITALY, round this hill, or wKIte clift, exhibits ful- phur cryftalized, fal-ammoniac, vitriol, &c. IV. We vifited Aftroni, a tornantic crater of an extinguifhed volcano, now converted irtto a royal hunting-park, which contains about a thoufand head of game, cbnfifting-^ of ftagsi wild-boars, and wild goats. The crater is walled round at its fummit, to pre- verit the game from efcaping, arid computed to be about four miles and a half in circUm- fcrence. The interior part exhibits folid \a\&.,fcorta, tufo, pumice, and other produc tions ufually found in adive volcanos. V. We then returned towards Naples,' and faw Virgil's tomb, fituated ori the fiirri- mit of the arch of that entry to the Grotto of Paufilipo which fronts the City. Its forrti Is a cylinder, with a dome, fupported by ^ fquare bafe— ^within are ten niches in which the cinviary urns were placed. The entrance looks towards the high-road ; and, oppofite t6 BETWEEN 1792 AHD 1708. J 57 tp the eutrance, wa§ the principal niche, where Virgil's afhes probably were depofit ed. Addlfon, without affigning ^uy fatis fadory reafon, fuppofes this npt to havq been the tomb of Virgil, although in con tradidion to what may be inferred fron^ jnany refpedable Writers. To the Keeper of the Grotto del Can^ and Vapour-Baths, ^ve gave fix carlini — tp the Keeper of the Aftroni one carlmo-axi.^ ^t Virgil's tomb, one carlino. Id. EXCURSION TO CASERTA, &C. Caferta is about fixteen miles from Na ples, and as our party confifted of four Per - fons only, we went In a caneftra for about fifteen carlini, huona-mano inclufive. On arriving at Caferta, we ordered frefh horfes to take us to the Aqueducts, which are about five miles further off, and nearly three hours muft be employed in order to fee them well, ^nd return to Caferta. In afcending the hiU wc 158 LETTERS fROM ITALY, we had an e.xtenfiye and beautiful view of almoft the whole Campagna Felice. When wc came to the Aqueduds the Keeper con duded us along the top of them, and fliew ed us the courfe of the water at one of the turrets. Hence we defcended through the paffages ofthe two higheft orders of arches^ and proceeded to the large centre-arch Iu order to fee the infcriptions on it — after this we examined the whole of the fuperftrudure from a Iktlp diftance, and then got into our carriage, and returned to thp royal Palace at Caferta. If the Court be there the royal apartments cannot be fhewn, and, in this cafe. Travellers are obliged to content them felves with vifiting the fouth-front, the grand ftair-cafe, the chapel, theatre, and unfinifhed parts of the building. From the middle-balcony of the front which looks to wards the gardens, there is a tolerably good view ofthe park, fifli- ponds, cafcade, &c. The modem ftatues are not wQtth notice, — • . The BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 15Q The Palace Avas built after the defigns of Vanvitelli. We went next to the Fifti- ponds, Iflands, &c. and remained a night at Caferta, in order to fee the King's filk and gauze manufadures at Sa. Leuce, as alfo the Englifli Garden. Perfons v.ho are admitted to the royal apartments ufually give the Keeper fix carlini — we gave the Keeper of the Theatre two carlini — the Boatman at the Iflands in the fifli-ponds, two carlini — and the Keeper of the aqueduds, two carlini. Perfons who like to return to Naples by Capua, may fee the ruins of ancient Capua, now called Sa. Maria di Capua. The firft objeds worth notice here are a Sepulchral Monument upon the left hand, and another on the right, the laft being low, and of a circular form, with niches. The magnifi cent remains of the Amphitheatre, lie on the right-hand, alfo, a little out of the road — and here it is worth while to exa mine iCO LETTERS FROM ITALY, mine what is left of the exterior wall, with the coloCal bufts in the key-ftones of the arches — the three corridors — the four grand entries, and' the declivity for the feats, ftair-cafes, arena, &c. Returning to the high-road, you pafs under a ruined arch, fuppofed to be one of the Gates of anpient Capua, EXCURSION TO THE ISLANp OF PROCEDA. Proceda, computed to be about fifteen miles from Naples, may be feen to great advantage, and without rlfque, in the fol lowing manner, provided the weather be ftill and warm. Hire a boat at Naples with five or fix Rowers, take a cold dinner, bread, wine, knives, forks, fait, oil, vine gar, &c. and fet out as early iu the morning as poffible, that you may avoid the heat of the fun. After doubling the Cape of Pau filipo, you pafs a beautifully pidurefque Hermitage, and likewife fee the rains of many BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. l6l many ancient buildings; and amongft others thofe commonly called the fchools of Vir gil, but conjedured to have been a Villa belonging to Lucullus. You then leave Nicida (on which Ifland is the Lazaretto); Pozzuoli, Monte-Nuovo, the Lucrine Lake, and Bai'a, to your left, and paffing under the Promontory of Mifenum (by which means you have a fine view of this great harbour of the Romans), you arrive at Pro ceda in two hours and a half, or, at moft in three hours. As foon as you are landed, walk Up to the Royal Palace, a large fhoot- ing-feat, almoft unfurnifhed,but delightfully fituated on the fummit of the Ifland, and commanding fiich a \icvf as beggars de fcription. In this Palace, which is always cool, you are permitted to dine, the Cuftodi finding you a table-cloth, plates, diflies, and a machine for icing water, the ice to fill which may eafily be procured in the Town. From the laudlng-place to the Vol. II. M Palace l62 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Palace is a fhort mile ; and, if you vifit Proeeda on Sunday, or on any other fefta, you will be recompenfed from the fatigue of walking through the town by a view of its Inhabitants, the Women being dreffed in the Greek ftyle, while the Men wear Phrygian caps, and waiftcoats ornamented with buttons refembling little bells, fuch as the Turks now wear. The People of Proceda are rich, and it is faid they main tain the Grecian cuftoms as well as drefs- — • they have one remarkable quality, inftead of importuning ftrangers for money, and never being fatisfied give what you may, as- is common in the environs of Naples, they fhew you every thing worth feeing, allow you to examine their dreffes, and appear fully recom.penfed by the pleafure of aflcing you queftions. This Ifland is famous for grapes, figs, and wine ; the houfes are flat- roofed, with terraces on the top — -the ftair- cafcs chiefly on the outfide of the .houfes. Allow BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. l63 Allow three hours for returning home ; and if your Boatmen carry your dinner to the Palace, fetch your ice, and behave well, give them five or fix carlini above the com mon price, namely, ten or twelve carlini for the boat, and four for every Boatman. To the Ctftodi of the Palace give ten carlini, and four to the Cicerone who conduds you thither. EXCURSION TO THE ISLAND OF ISCHIA^ This Ifland, computed to be twenty-four miles from Naples, is famed for its Baths, which, during fummer, are much frequent ed. Travellers may eafily procure accom modation at Ifchia, and as the Ifland is large, and very pidurefque^ it is worth while to pafs three or four days here. EXCURSION TO THE ISLAND OF CAPfel. As this Ifland is thirty miles diftant from Naples, and contains many antiquities worth M 2 notice, l04 LfeTTFRS FROM ITALY, notice, it is impoffible to go and return in one day ; confequently, the beft fcheme is/ to fet out early in the morning, fail to Ca pri, which will take up five or fix hours, get an apartment in the Plain, at the Eng lifli houfe, if poffible, fleep there two nights, and return to Naples on the evening of the third day. Good beds, fifh, milk, wine, and fruit, may be procured at Capri ; bread, meat, tea, coffee, fugar, and butter, it is advifeable to take from Naples. There is a packet-boat eftablifhed between Naples and Capri, which fails from each place every three or four days ; and Perfons who go in this boat pay a trifle, unlefs they take it to themfelves, which is by much the more comfortable way, and, in which cafe, the price is proportioned to the number of Rowers. Capri, anciently Caprea, is famous for having been the retiring- place of Auguftus, and the refidence, for feveral years, of Ti-' berius : BETWEEN 1792 AND 1703- 1 05 berius : it contains about nine thoufand In habitants, and two towns, Capri and Ano- Capri ; the latter being fituated on a vaft rock, to which you albeud by above five hundred fteps. The people chiefly confift of Mechanics, Hufbandmen, and Sailors ; perfed equality reigns among them ; no body feems poor, but all appear induftrious. Here are three Phyficlans appointed by the King to attend the People gratis ; neverthe- lefs, their pradice is very inconfidcrable, the air being fo particularly falubrious that fcarcely any maladies vifit this Ifland. The town of Capri ftands in a beautiful and well cultivated Plain, and contains the Bifliop's PalacSi) with two or three Con vents. On the extremity of tiie eaftern Promontory are confiderable remains of Ro man, buildings, and a moft romantic prof ped : here, likewife, are caverns, once de dicated to the brutal pleafures of Tiberius ; fubterranean roads ; with fuch an infinity Ms of 160 LETTERS FROM ITALY, of buildings under-ground, that one would imagine the whole Ifland had once been undermined. On the oppofite fide of Capri are ruins of a Palace and a Theatre. Im^ menfe flights of quails vifit this Ifland dur ing fummer, and are caught by the Inhabi tants to fupply the Naples-market. Invalids ftiould by no means think of af cending to Ana-Capri. EXCURSION TO SORRENTO. Sorrento, aciently called Syrentum, froin its enchanting fituation, and perhaps the eooleft and moft healthy fiimmer-abode in the fouthern part of Italy, is feventeen or eighteen miles from Naples ; and Perfons wifhing to go and return the fame day muft fet out very early in the morning, it; being neceffary to allow four hours for row ing thither, four or five to reft the Boat men, and four for returning. A boat thu^ hired will coft five or fix ducats. The Inu at BET^VEEN 1792 AND 1798, lO/ at Sorrento is fo bad that Travellers fliould take wine and a cold dinner with tlipm : the Town is fmall, and chiefly famous f ir containing the paternal manfion of the im mortal Taflo, together with his buft fixed iOn one comer of the houfe without-fide, and faid to be a good likenefs. Here, alfo, are the remains of an Egyptian ftatue. The Plain of Sorrento confifts of rocks and ca verns united by bridges, with orange trees growing in every cavity, here are no car- page-roads, or, at leaft, only one of about three miles in length ; moft of the paths be ing very narrow, and fenced in by high walls : but good rnules, affes, and chaifes- a-porteur may be procured at reafonable prices ;* and, with thefe, it is eafy to afcend the mountains, \\ hich afford the fineft views imaginable, and are clothed to their fum- ¦^ The ufual price of a mule and Guide to go fix or eight miles is four carlini, buona-mano inclufive — •. the price oi ¦a.chaife-a-portcur, four, five, oj'fix parlin^ Recording to the diftance. M 4 mit5 jOS LETTERS FROM ITALY, mits with olives, caks, and a variety of bthei; trees and fhrubs, larger of their kind and^ more healthy in their appearance than in any other part of Italy. Near Sorrento, on the Plain, is the Village of S, Agnello, in going to which place you pafs the fite of an ancient Temple dedicated to Venus, where, ftill grow myrtles fo large that one could almoft fancy them as old as the building. Beyond S. Agnello is Meta, another Village in the Plain of Sorrento ; and to the left of Sor rento lies Mafia, which feems once to have been a confiderable Town, and where the remains of an ancient Theatre may ftill be difcovered. LETTER jBETWEEN 1792 AND 1/98. lOfi) LETTER XXIII. Florence, March 1798. ^T TISHING to fee the Cafcade of Terni. we took the Perugia-road from Rome hither, and found it fo very intereft ing that I fhall give you a brief account of the objeds beft w^orth notice. The road from Rome to Perugia is through the Porta Flaminia, now Porta Flumentana. The Ponte Molle, or Milvio, corruptly fo call ed from M. Emilius Scaurus, by whom it was built, lies in this road, about two miles from Rome, and is rendered famous by Conftantine's vifion. Civita Caftellana, fuppofed to be the ancient Veii, was the firft town which attraded our attention, and is, in point of fituation, particularly ftrong and beau tiful. Narni, IfO LETTERS FRQM ITALY, Narni, the next town in this road, was anciently called Nequinum, from the obr^ ftiuacy of its Citizens, who, during a fiege, killed their Wives and Children in order to fave their provifions, arid, when all thefe were confumed, chofe rather to lay violent Jiands upon themfelves than furrender. This place gave birth tp the Emperor Nerva. A little beyond Narni, and about a mile out of the road, are the remains of a magni ficent Bridge, fuppofed to have been built by Auguftus over the river Nera, for the pur pofe of uniting two hills. The mpft con venient way of feeing this ftately Ruin 1^ to let the carriage wait in the road to Terni, while you walk down the hill at whofe foot the Bridge prefents jtfelf, It confifts of large ftones joined together with out any cement or iron crarnps, and their outfides cut into the form of diamonds. On the dry land next to Narni is one en tire arch, the piers of which are above forty cpmrnor^ BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. I7I common paces afunder. The piers ftill re- rnaining in the water prove the immenfe fize of the arches, which wore not, how ever, of an equal diameter. The length of this Bridge is fuppofed to have been 850 Roman palmi : the diftance between the piers of the firft arch is computed to be 1 00 palmi, and its bight 150; the diftance be tween the piers of the fecond 1 80 palmi ; that between thofe of the third 150 ; and the laft arch, aa hich ends on the other fide ofthe Nera, is 190 palmi in breadth. Tcrni derives its ancient name, Inter- amna, from the two arms of the Nera be tween which it is fituated. Cornelius Tacitus, and the Emperors Tacitus and Florlanus, were born in this City, which pontains the ruins of an Amphitheatre in the Epifcopal Garden, and thofe of a Tem ple of the Sun in the Church of S. Salva dore. At S. Siro, in the Cellars of the Col lege, are the remains of a Temple of Her cules, 172 LETTERS FROM ITALY, cules, and in the Cafin of the Cafa Spada, fome ruins of ancient Baths. Four miles from Terni is the famous Cafcade, called, Caduta delle Marmore, and formed by the fall of the Velino into the Nera. This Catarad is fai4 to have been made about the year of Rome O71, by Cu- rius Dentatus, who, in order to drain the territory of Rleti of its ftanding waters, cut channels, through which he difcharged them into the Velino, and, from thence, into the Nera, forming by thefe means a Cafcade, confifting of three leaps, the firft computed to be 300 Englifh feet, the two others united between four and five hun dred. Wifhing to fee this Catarad in per fedion, we fet out from Terni about ten o'clock of a clear morning, and afcended the Monte di Marmore in Calaflies, till wc approached the Velino, which announces, itfelf at a corifiderable diftance by its thun dering noife. We then walked to view the narrow BETWEEN 1792 AND 179S. 173 narrow pafs through which it ruflies down the fall of 300 feet, and afterwards pro ceeded to a Temple built on a promontory for the purpofe of contemplating the three leaps together. Here we remained till twelve o'clock, when, the efled of the fun upon water, which, from the velocity of its fall, rifes into vapours refembling millions of curled white feathers, is beautiful beyond defcription ; indeed there are very few ce leftial rainbows half fo brilliant as the ter reftrial ones at Terni. After having feen thefe, we returned to the bottom of the Mente di Marmore, and then walked (it be ing, I believe, impoffible to ride,) to yjew the Catarad from below. We paid for each Calafh two Roman crowns, and gave our Cicerone five pauls. Perfons who do not like to truft themfelves in a carriage, may afcend the Monte di Mar more upon a mule, for which the price is five pauls. Spoleti, 174 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Spoleti, or Spoleto, is a very ancient Cityi fituated on the acclivity of a mountain, and watered by the Clitumnus, formerly cele* brated for the whitenefs of the cattle which grazed near it. The Citizens of Spoleto re-* pulfed Hannibal immediately after the bat tle of Thrafymenus ; and they ftill preferve a gate, called Porta Fuga, with an infcrip tion in memory of this event. The Ca thedral contains paintings, haffi rilievi, and ancient mofaics. The Aquedud is a beau tiful gothic fabric, fupported by ftone arches, and, in one part, by a double arcade, faid to be 300 feet high. Between Spoleto and Foligno, a few bundred paces from Le Vene, is the Tem ple of Clitumnus, now converted into a Chapel, and dedicated to S. Salvadore. ThS front towards the plain is adorned with fout Corinthian pillars, and two pilafters ; the edifice is oblong, and on the roof are the following BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 17S following words cut in ftone ; " T. Septi-' mius Plebeius." Folignoy in Latin Fulginas, is remarkable for a charming pidure, by Raffaelle, in the Convent of the Counteffes of Foligno.* The altar, and frefco-paintings In the Ca thedral, merit notice. Between Foligno and Pemgia lies Aftift, in Latin Afjfliim, the birth-place of S. Fran cefco. It is fituated on a hill fo near to the great- road, that Travellers may vifit It with eafe. The Church of S. Francefco, in this ancient City, contains feyeral pidures of the old School, well worth notice. The Con vent of Francefcan Nuns, called the Nuns of S. Clare, likewife deferves attention ; and the Church of Sa. Maria, or the Filipini, once a Temple of Minerva, is a beautiful piece of antiquity. Perugia, in Latin Augttfla Perufia, the * ITiis pidlure was upon fale vs^hen I pafled through foligno, -capital 176 EETTERS FliOM ITALT/ capital b£ the rich and charming prbviricd of Umbria, and anciently the ftrongeft city of Etruria, contairis many aintlqUitles worth feeing, befides' a confiderable rium'ber of paintings by Pietro Perugino ; but, exclu five of this, it is advifable for Travellers to fleep here, in order to avoid paffing a night at Torricella. Perugia is magnificently fitu ated on the fummit of a lofty mountairi of the Apennine, and feems, by nature, almoft impregnable : fuch, indeed, was the ftrength of this City, and fuch the valour of its in habitants, that Harinlbal ventured not to attack it, even after having gained the im portant battle of Thrafymenus : arid, to this .moment, the Peragiahs are famed for being the moft daring and ferocious of the Ro-^ man People. Between Torricella and Camofcia, at five .miles diftance from the former, is the mi ferable Village of Pafftgnano, rendered fa mous by the above-named vidory gained near BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. tff near this ipot by Hdnnibal, 217 years be fore Chrift. Six miles further ori, is the Ponte San* guinetto, fituated below a village of the fame name, and both fo called from the effufion of Roman blood fpilt there. Between Paffignario arid Sangulnetto, the fite of the Roman Camp, and the paft^ through which Hannibal came, down from the heights, may be difcovered. Four miles further on is Spilonga, a fmall hamlet on the confines of Tufcany ; and, three miles from Splloriga, ftarid^ Offaia, whe^y on a houfe in tlie ftreet, is the fol lowing lafcriptioft.- " Nomen habet locus hie Oftaia ab oflibus illis " Qua dolus Annibalis fudit i^ hafla fimul." " This place bears the name of Oflala, /rom the bones of thofe urtforturiafe Men whom Hannibal flew here." Offaia is by many Writers fuppofed to have been the adual field of battle ; though. Vol. II. TST perhaps, 17,8 -^LETTERS FROM ITALY, f" . ' perhaps, it rather was the hill to which the fmall remains of Flaminius's Troops retired ; becaufe, thirteen miles, the reputed diftance between Pafftgnano and Offaia, feems too large a fpace for the contending Armies to have^ occupied. It is impoffible to view the coijritry between Paffignano and Offaia, ¦v?|thput;feeling the higheft admiration of the ^military fklU of Hannibal, who con- trlvedj on an Enemy's ground, to draw that enemy Into a narrow, fwampy, and uncom monly foggy plain, where no army, : how- , ever numerous, however brave, could long hare defended itfelf: for on three fides are heights which -wete poffeffed by the Troops of Carthage ; and, on the other, a vaft un- fordable lake. On the hill above Camofcia, and within the diftance of a walk, ftands Cortona, or Coritus, faid to be the moft ancient of the twelve great Cities of Etruria. In the Ca thedral Is a large antique Sarcophagus, fup pofed BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. I79 pofed to be that of the unfortunate Conful Flamirtius, and reprefenting the battle of the Lapithes with the Centaurs. Many of the Churches are curious In point of archi tedure, iand moft of them contain gooJ pidures, both of the old and new School. Several of the private houfes contain valu able paintings. The ancient Etrufcan Walls of this City are in fome places difcoverable ; they were formed of immenfe blocks of marble, without any cement whatfoever ; and. In the Mufeum of the Academy, and in thofe which belong to the Nobles of Cortona, are other Etrufcan antiquities- Arezzo, anciently Arctium, is remarkable for the extenfive view from its Fortrefs. The Mufeum of M. M- Bacci, contains Gre cian and Etrufcan antiquities ; and the re mains ofthe ancient Amphitheatre are ftill to be feen. Arezzo gave birth to Petrarch. As the fubjed of this Letter has led me to ipeak of Hannibal, I will fubjoin a detail qf N 2 what 180 LETTEIiS FROM ITALY, what appears to have been his Iloutff into Italy, which I haVe traced from an ajacient Map as far as Embrun upon the river Du- tancsp in Dauphine, and afterwards founded Upon the authority of Polybius, ftrength- ened by the prefent apjpeajrance of thsj ground, E^annibal fet out in the midft of winter tJ. C. 536, with an Army of 5 0,000 Foot, and 9000 Horfe, befides elephants, from (Ancient names) (Modern names) Septa - - - - Ceuta, in Africa, a Sea port, and croffed to Tretiun Ercu- The Straights o£ Gibraltar y IcUjU , - from whence he proba bly proceeded by fea to L..'.-/L - - - - Tor if a, the Pillar of Her cules in Europe : then pafled through the* Country of the The Kingdom of Granada Baftuli in Spain t^ Malaca BETWEEN 1792 AND 17-Q8. 181 (Ancient names) (Modern names) Malaca - - - Malaga; and, from thence proceeded through the Country cf the The Kingdom of Murcia, Baftiam to the Camp of Spar- tarius, from thence go ing to Cartago-nova Cartagena, and traverfing the Province of Con- The Kingdom of Valencia, teftanorum to Alone - - - Alicant ; at which Sear Port it feems probable that he embarked his Troops, and paffed up the river Sii,cr«gj|^!.il arbour. The famous Horfes of bi^^re gilt, with many other celebrated pieces of fculpture and painting, are tranf ported to Paris : ftupendous work, how ever, ftill remain, by Titian, Tintoret, Paul Veronefe, &c. ; but, what excites moft intereft at Venice, is to obferve how amply and conveniently this City is fupplied, not only with the neceffarips, but the luxuries of life, though it poffeffes naturally neither foil nor frefli water. The Church of S. Marco is curious, from being completely incrufted with ancient mofaic. Over the high-altar are Greek paintings: — the Doors were brought from Conftantinople, and are Corinthian brafs — the Pavement Is mofaic. S. Giorgio Maggiore, built by Palladio in a ftyle of grand fimplicity, contains a paint ing. BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 197 ing, by J. Baffano, of the adoration of tbe Shepherds, which, though very dirty, merits notice, the light from the body of the Child being wonderfully managed. II Redentore, built by Palladio, is a fim ple, elegant, and magnificent piece of archi tedure ; it contains a pidure of the nativity, by F. Baffano, and in the Sacrifty is a painting of the Madonna, our Saviour, and two Angels, by G. Belino. II Frari contains an affumption, by Ti tian, which is placed in a bad light, fmoked, and dirty, b>ut the compofition appears to be extremely fine ; a Madonna and infant Jefus, by the fame Mafter (this laft pidure was much fludled by Rubens and Vandyck), and, in the Sacrifiy, a painting by G. Be lino. S. Rocco is adorned with fix excellent paintings by Tintoretto, and that reprefent ing S. Rocco healing the Sick is particularly 0 3 fine ! 198 LETTERS FROM ITALY, fine ! In an arch oppofite to the lafl:? named pidure is a work by Pordenone, reprefeuting Saints Chriftopher and Mar tin on horfeback ! Sa. Maria della Salute contains the defcent ofthe Holy Ghoft, by Titian, painted wheit he Was fixty-four years of age ; and on thq ceiling ofthe Sacrifty the death of Abel ! — the facrifice of Abraham ! — and the vidory pf David over Goliah ! — all by the fame Mafter. S. Mark, S. Sebaftian, S. Rocco, &c. are hkewife by Titian, and a fine fpe-r cimen of his firft manner. // Gefuiti, a noble Church, though too much loaded with ornaments, contains an affumption, by Tintoretto. S. Giovanni di Rialto is adorned with ^ celebrated pidure of the Patron- Saint giy? ing alms to the Poor, by Titian ! ! ! This ^/ ' ¦ ' . ' ' ' worlf abounds with portraits, executed with that truth and charader which diftinguifh the BETWEEN 1792 AJfD 1798. 199 the paintings of the juft-named Artift, while the compofition is fimple and perfcdly adapted to the fubjed. Sa. Maria Maggiore contains an interefting pidure of St. John Baptift, by Titian ! Sa. Caterina is adorned with various paint ings Oil the walls, reprefenting the life of the Saint, and executed with great force by Palma 11 Giovine. Over the high- altar" is the marriage of St. Catharine, by Paolo Ve ronefe, the compofition of which is grace- fiil, and the drawing more corred than ufual with this Mafter, but the light is too equally diffiifed. Here, hkewife, is a pidure of Tobit and the Angel ! fuppofed to be .either by Titian or Santo Zago. Scuola della Carita contains the prefenta tion ofthe Madonna, by Titian Hia work full pf harmony, richnefs, and truth ; the landfcape in the back-ground is very fiib- Jirne, the attitudes of the Priefts are grand 0-* and 200 LETTERS FROM ITALY, and fimple, and the old Woman felling eggs in front of the pidure appears quite alive. Scuola de' Sarti contains a frieze which goes round the room, and is remarkable for being the firft public work of Tintoretto ; the fubjed is the life of St. Barbara ; here likewife is a pidure of St. John, St. Bar bara, &c. by Giorgione. Scuola di S. Rocco contains the largeft and beft works of Tintoretto, who painted in this fchool for thirty years. The moft celebrated of thefe works are — the annun- ciation^-the flaughter of the Innocents — and the flight into Egypt — the compofi tion of the firft is peculiarly fine, becaufe ftridly conformable to feripture ; the bleffed Mothef of our Redeemer being reprefented as the Inhabitant of an humble cottage, in ftead of being placed in a fplendid apart ment, which is too frequently the pradice ; the furniture is wonderfully executed ; and the BETW^EEN 1792 AND 1798. 201 the figure of the Angel replete with grace and enthufiafm. This School contains many other works of Tintoretto, Titian, &c. Palazzo Ducale contains, in the grand council-chamber, the largeft pidure in the world, executed by Tintoretto, and ferving as an example to fhew how entirely great talents may be thrown away from want of proper attention to methodical arrange ment; the whole performance exhibiting a mafs of confufion, though it abounds with fine groups, and, in fome parts, is wonder fully executed. Palazzo Pifani Moreta contains Alexander with the Family of Darius, by Paolo Vero nefe ! ! a pidure which feems compofed in defiance to claffical knowledge and pure tafte; but, neverthelefs, fo harmonious is the colouring, and fb beautiful the pairtting, that it is impoffible to contemplate this work without forgetting all its faults and dwel ling only on its excellencies. Palazzo 202 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Palazzo Grimani contains, in the Court below, a coloffal ftatue of Marcus Agrippa;,. which was originally placed in the veftlble of the, Pantheon at Rome, This ftatue is Greek workmanfhip, and much admired ! I — oppofite to it is a coloffal ftatue of Aur guftus— here, likewife, is a celebrated baffos rilievo of a little drunken Bacchus, and an-r other, unfinifhed, of two fea-horfes. Up- flairs. Firft room — a coloffal ftatue of a Roman Confifl ! ! and two bafft-rilievi 1 ! — • a buft of Vitellius ! ! and another of Ciarar calla. Third room — an oval in the centre of the ceiling by Giorgione — other parts by Giovanni da Udine. Fifth room — -a ceilings faid to be by Raffaele and Gio. da tldine — r an antique bead of Hercules. Sixth room — a fmall pidure ofa Love, by Guido. Ninth room — a coloffal ftatue, the pedeftal of which is reckoned curious. Tenth room — ¦ a ceiling by Gio. da Udine ; the fubjed trees and animals j the execiition is fine, but BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 203 but trees on a ceiling feem abfurd — antique bqfti-rilievi. Eleventh room — a fine table of Florentine- work. Twelfth room (beautiful in point of architedure, and built by San fovino) — a fine table of touchftone — a fmall colledion of antiquities from Pompeii, &c. the ftair-cafe is painted by Gio. da Udine. The cornpofition for the floors of the apart ments here, and all over the Venetian State, is very pretty. The Library, Inthe Piazza dl'S. Marco, Jias been fpoiled by the French of its moft yaluable contents. The beft inn at Venice is Petrillo's. The water in this City is, generally fpeak ing, but indifferent. On the day when we quitted Venice wc dined at Petrillo'^s, and then went in our Gondola to Meftre, where we flept ; and the next morning early fet out for Conegliano, where we arrived in nine hours and three quarters. About ten miles from Meftre lies 204 LETTERS PROM ITALY, lies Trevifo, to which City the road is good. Beyond Trevifo we paffed the Pia^'e, on a bridge of boats ;* and after croffing the fpot where one of Buonaparte's great battles was. fought, proceeded, through an indif ferent road, to Conegliano. Numbers of elegantly built Villas, now completely gut ted by the French, ftand on either fide of the higb-way between Meftre and Coneg liano. The latter town is rather large, and •The Poft-Houfe a good inn. Our next day's journey was to Pordenon, which we were feven hours and three quar ters in reaching ; the road between this place and Conegliano being bad at all times, and after rain extremely dangerous, as it lies clofe to the foot of the Alps, from which mountains vaft torrents of water fre quently defcend, and inundate the adja cent country. La Pofta, at Pordenon, is a j^Ood inn ; here we flept, and next morning * This river is very dangerous after rain. proceeded BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 205 proceeded In nine hours to S. Tommtifo. The road, as far as Spilimbergo, runs near the Alps, and through the bed of a torrent dif agreeable at all times, and unfafe after rain. From Spilimbergo we defcended Into the Tagliamento, a moft tremendous torrent after rain, but, in dry weather, fordable. It takes a full hour to travel through this wa ter w^ith the affiftance of oxen and Guides ;* and though the weather before we crofled had long been dry, the different ftreams of which the Tagliamento Is compofed, were wide and rapid, infomuch as to be very dif agreeable. Soon after fording this torrent we paffed a Town, called S. Agnello, a lit tle beyond which is the Village of S. Tom- mafb. The road on this fide the Taglia^ mento is good, the inn at S. Tommafo bad. Our next day's journey was to Ponteba, or Pontafel, whither we were twelve hours * Our Voiturin paid for three Guides and two oxen, one fequin, m 205 LETTERS FliOM ITAtY^ In going. Wc took the road by OfoppP^ that being deemed the beft, though evert that, as far as L'Ofpedaletto, Is rough and dangerous, efpecially for the firft two miles. At L'Ofpedaletto we entered a defile of th€ Alps, which leads to Venzone, a pretty Town embofomed In thefe mountains ; and from hence to Refiuta we found the road, which lies parallel with the bed ofthe Tag liamento, excellent, the views fublime, and the Alpine plants, which enamel the rocks, particularly beautiful. The Inn kept by Perifuta, at Refiuta, Is clean and comfort able ; but the water here, as in moft parts of the Alps, Is bad ; and many Inhabitants of this country (particularly wonien,) are afflided with immenfe goitrous fwellings. At Refiuta we began to pafs bridges made of wood, and covered at the top ; there are five or fix of them in the Alps ; and i«i Germany, likewife, all the bridges are made of wood, though not all covered at the top. From BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 20? From Refiuta, which is fomewhat above half way to Ponteba, the road ftill lies through defiles of the Alps, near the bed of the Tagliamento, and is good, though too narrow ; the views are very fublime. Ponteba, the Frontier Town of Carin thia, is a miferable place ; and here, our baggage underwent fo rigorous an exami nation in the open ftreet, before we were fiiffered to drive to the inn, that it required Argus's eyes not to be plundered of every thing valuable our trunks contained, and Goliath's ftrength to unpack and repack af ter the fatigue of a twelve hour's journey : ftich, indeed, is the inconvenience Travel lers muft neceffarily be expofed to at this cuftom-houfe, that I would advife nobody to pafs Ponteba who can poffibly go an other way ; It being the great objed of the Cuftom-Houfe Officers to thieve, for which pifl^ofe they endeavour to throw fqiall parcels on the ground under the carriages, and even examine 208 LETTEHS FROM ITALY, examine coach-feats, writing-boxes, and,Iet-' ters. ' They feize gold and filver lace, fnufi> and tobacco, and for unmade filks, gauzes^ &c., they oblige you to depofit double the worth, to be paid back, however, when you quit the imperial territories.* They accept no fees, and are flower in their operations than It Is poffible to conceive.'' After fleeping at Ponteba, where the inn is a bad one, we proceeded in ten hours and a quarter to Vlllach, through a wide defile of the Alps ; and found the road good, and the country beautiful, every mountain being clothed to its fummit with noble fir- trees : the German Villages at the foot of the mountains, however, in fome meafure fpoil the beauty of the fcene, as nothing can be more uncouth than the wooden buildings which compofe them, except the * Your filks, &c. are plumbed ; you are afked what road you purpofe taking ; and you then receive. an order for the money you have depofited to be re turned at the Cuftom-Houfe on the confines. fences^ BETWEEN 1792 AND 1793. 209 fences, which are, if poffible, ftill Worfe, The houfes are even roofed with wood, and the confequence is, that thefe aukward edi fices are continually burnt to the ground. The Inhabitants are as imcouth as their dwellings, and the very crows and oxen ugly ; fb, at leaft, they all appear in the eyes of Perfons long ufed to the elegant ar chitedure, polifhed manners, and beautiful horned-cattle of Italy. The Germans fel dom have a wafh-hand bafin in any of theif country-inns ; and even at Vlllach, a large town, we eould not find one : the inn we flept at, however, (its fign The CroWn,) ii clean and good ; though tall People cannot fleep comfortably cither here or in any part of Germany : the beds, which are very nar row, being' placed in wooden frames, or boxes, fo fhort that any body who happens to be above five feet high, muft abfolutely fit up all night fupported by pillows ; and this is, in fad, the way in which the Ger- VoL. II. P mans 210 LETTERS FRQjVI ITALY, mans fleep. With refped to provifions, wc found no caufe for complaint ; meat, bread, and wine, (fomewhat like Mofelle) beer, foup and bouUie, four-crout, ftewed prunes, coffee, and milk, being excellent ; and wa ter, generally fpeaking, good and whole fome. The ufual dinner-hour is twelve o'clock ; at which time Travellers may al ways find fomething fit to eat at the inns ; German cookery being fimple and whole fome : one requifite to a comfortable meal it Is, however, very difficult to obtain, I mean clean table-linen. We were adually obliged to purchafe a couple of table-cloths and fix napkins on our journey, fo' terribly were we annoyed by the dirty linen which was produced every where but in the very large Towns. Women, in this country, feem to work harder than men ; and at public houfes you generally fee female Servants, who, not only cook the dinner and wait at table, but even feed BETWEEN 1792 .VND 179,^. 211 feed the horfes. The Peafantry have fine complexions, with a great appearance of healtli and ftrength, but their countenances feldom exprefs good-humour, or quicknefs of apprehenfion; they drefs neatly, and wear high-flioes, like thofe of our Englifh Far mers. The Women are faid to be depraved in their morals. Moft of the country-towns through which we paffed confift of ftraight ftreets, with a large fquare in their centre, adorned by an obelifk, ftatues of the Ma donna, our Saviour, &c. The German horfes are remarkably ftrong and handfome, and the whple country, from Ponteba to Vienna, wears the face of wealth more per haps than any other part of Europe. The paffing through this part of Ger many feems like living fome hundred years ago in England ; as the dreffes, cuftoms, and manners of the People precifely re femble thofe of our anceftors. Many of their implements of hufbandry, alfo, appear fimi- P2 lar 212 LETTERS FROM IT kit i lar to ours'; and their kitchens are furnifli ed with plates » difhes, bafinsj arid ewers of pewer, and wooden trenchers, exadly like thofe which may ftill be feen amorig us lil. eld farm -houfes. The herbs and fhrubs alfo. refemble thofe of Erigland, except that bar- berry-bufhes are fubftituted for blackberries, while the firs grow fo luxuriantly, that young pknts a few inches high abfolutely carpet all the w"oods. The road from L'Ofpedaletto to Vlllach has been made about ten years ; it feems ta have undergone a recent repair, and cer tainly poffeffes one great advantage, that of being, perhaps;, the only approach to Italy which does not lie over the fiimmits of the, Alps. It is indeed very remarkable, that al though we were furrounded by thefe cloud-* capped mountains the whole way, we fel dom, if ever, defcended a hill fteep enoughi to render a drag-chain neceflary ; neither did we perceive any fault in the road, its narrownefs BETWEEN i;02 AND 17QS. 21,3 narrownefs excepted ; and this was particu-^ larly troublefome to us, as we frequently met hundreds of artillery- waggons, and w ere ibmetimcs compelled to ftop a full hour while they paffed. From Villach we proceeded to Clagai- furt, in eight hours *nd a half, through a good road, and a finely cultivated aud ^rikingly beautiful country, adorned with 41 noble fheet of water, called the Lake of Fel. The valHcs are variegated with fmalji Villages and ruftlc Churches, like thofe of F^glaud ; the ncair mountains clothed to their fummits with firs^ and other trees j while .behind thera rife Alps covered wif]j (eternal fhow. Clageufurt.ls a large j^n4 ftrongly fortified City ; the 'h©ufes arp tokrafoly neg.t, and the fpires of the churches built in the Tu.rkifli ftyle, and covered with white mctaJ. Wc flept at The golden Stxir, which is rather a good inn, and next day proccc4ed, in niue P 3 hours 214 LETTERS FROM ITALY, hours and a half, to Friefach, through a^ excellent road, and a bold, finely wooded, and richly cultivated country. In the way to Friefach lies St. Veit, a handfome town. We found The Wolf at Friefach a good inn ; and, after fleeping there, drove in ten hours and a quarter to Judenburg, ftopping, however, at Noumarck, (which is about mid-way,) to dine. We found the road to Noumarck fmooth, and the country well cultivated, though lefs beautiful than be fore ; but, as we approached Judenburg, It became pidurefque and finely wooded. We flept at The golden Crofs and Scythe, a clean good inn, and went next day, in nine hours and a quarter, to Leoben. Our road continued good, winding near a meandering ftream called the Muhr, and our views were beautiful. ' Travellers ufually dine about mid- way at Grauhath. The imperial Eagle. at Leoben, is a very clean- comfortable inn, and the town is rather handfome, many of BETWEEN 1792 AND 1708. 21:. of the houfes being built with ftone or brick. Our next day's journey was, through Bruck, to Mcrzhofeu, which we reached in five hours and three quarters ; and there fore might eafily have gone further ; but hearing that the beds at the next Poft were engaged, and finding the inn at Merzhofen tolerable, we flept there, and then proceed ed, in nine hours and a half, to Schottwein, paffing through a good road to Merzufchlago, where we dined, and then afcended a very lofty mountain, at the foot of which lies Schottwein.* The afcent is good, and takes up about one hour ; the defcent employs more than double that time, and is fliarp and dangerous, the road being narrow and ill-kept, infomuch that waggons afcend on the Schottwein-fide with fixteen and fomcr- * From Merzufchlago we took extra-horfes to the fummit of this mountain, which Travellers fliould not defcend after it becomes dark. P 4 times 2l6 LETTERS FROM ITALY, times twenty horfes. We found the coun-» try from Merzhoften to Schottweiu wild, pretty, and finely wopded ; and previous to our arrival at Merzufchlago we paffed the town of Krieglaph. The Poft-pioufe at Schottwein is ^ tolera ble inn. Our next day's journey was to Trafkir-r ken, whither the drlye tppk up ten hoursi prtd a quarter. After quitting Schottwein we entered an extenfivp plain highly culti vated, and paffed through a good road tQ Neukirken and Neuftatt, reaching the latter in about fix hours and a half. Neukirkeii is rather a large town? and contains good inns. Neuftatt lilcewife is large, contains good inns, and is fortified. Wc dined here, Frorn hence to Trafkirken the road is flat ¦^nd good, the couritry lefs pleafing and not fo well cultivated as before ; \o the right, however, we had ^ profped pf Hungary and the Danube, We found The Stag at Trafkirken BETWEEN 1792 AND 1793. 217 Trafkirken a very Indifferent inn, thougl| the town feems rather large. Next morning we drove in four houa and a half to Vienna, through a flat and lU-kept road, and a country thick fet with villages, and abounding with game, hares efpecially, but not well cultivated. On en tering Vienna we were driven to the Cuf tom-Houfe, where the Officers, though apt to be troublefome to Foreigners, were to us very civ^il. The inns of this City are Isad Tand dear ; Wo^s is deemed the beft, and The white Bull once was tolerable ; but the prefent Mafter is fo notorious a Cheat as jiot to fcruple, after making a clear bargain, to deviate from it in every particular ; be fides which, his dinners are fo bad that it is fcarcely poffible to eat them. Indeed, the pnly way of living comfortably at Vienna is to take a private lodging. This City, built at tbe confluence a£ the Danube and the Vienne, is fmall but ftrongly forti^ed. 218 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Ibrtlfied. The Fauxbourgs are Immenfe, and contain firier buildings than the City 'itfelf, in which the palaces are few and not fpacious. Vienna, to foreign eyes, looks ra^ ther "rich than handfome, being deftitute of thofe fplendid ftreets and fquares, whieh ufually adorn the Capital of a great empire : the environs, however, than which nothing can be more magnificent, make up for the deficiencies of the town. The fineft public Edifices are — -The Royal Refidence — The Cathedral of St. Stephen — The Campanile — The Vafe of the Library — and The Arfenal. The royal Gallery of Pictures at the Belve- dei'eis highly worth notice — it contains a large work, by Titian, finely executed, though not equal to thofe ftill rernainlng at Venice — charming paintings by Rembrandt, particularly a portrait of himfelf, which, for bratmra and truth may be denominated his chef-d' (T.wvre 11! — a fine pidure by Rubens, reprefenting BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 21^ reprefenting an Emtu-ror recelvinj^; pardou for fome offence againft the Holy-See — Ju piter and Io, by Correggio ! ! ! ! Ganymede, by the fame Mafter ! 1 ! ! The former has been retouched in the back ground, but is, exclufive of this, pure from the pencil of Correggio two heads by Denner — -and fome excellent flower-pieces by Van-Huy- fum — thefe pidures are on the ground- fioor. The rooms above-flairs likewife con tain paintings highly worth notice, from be ing the works ofthe very earlieft Mafters of the Flemifli and German Schools: they are in excellent prefervation, poffefs great merit, and form a moft interefting hiftory of the pregrefs of .the art. The Belvedere is not open above twice or, three times a week. It is ufual to give two florins, if you fee the whole colledion. The Treafury, and the Cabinets of Medals (ind Natural-Hiflory merit notice — the Ca- meOi 220 LJETTERS FROM ITALY, mea of AJexauder, by Pyrgpteles, Is aiucfe celebrated. The Galiery ofpiUures in the Llchttnftmt Palace cojitairtjS fome remarkably flue por traits by Vandyck and Rubens! — two whole-lengths, by Holbein! — ^a Girl playing on the guitar, by M. A- C^fflravaggjg— -the facrifice of Iphigenia, by N. Pouffin a Coxmtryman eating, hy Beccafumi— a head by Seybold, being his own pejfifTflit^— a Ma donna and Cbiid^ by Teniersr— ^pother by Haniman'— flower-pieces, by Van-Huyfam, Trechfter, &c. &c. We gavp one florin above-ftairs, and two pauls to the Porter below. This gallery may be fccn at ftli times; but is ^nuch inferior to that at the Belvpr dere.;, The Per^^in MantfoMwe merits notice. The Prater is, perhaps, the moft magnifi:- cent public drive and walk in Europe. The nflial time of going is after dinner. Here you BETWEEN 1792 AND 1 798. 221 you may have coffee, excellent milk, beer, bread, &c. If ail Garden is a public place near the Prater, fomewhat like Vauxhall, Here, you may dine (under the fliade of fine horfe- cheftnut trees) in the garden; or in a fpa cious room with the reft of the Company ; every party, however, having its feparate table : it is poffible, likewife, to get a room to yourfelf. A band of mufic, which plays during dinner, receives from each party a paul or two. , Dinner, wine excepted, cofts one floda per head, and is excellently weli ferved. Here are bifliard-tables, a dancing- room, Goffee-roona, &c. The Waiters ^eak French and Italian. Schoenbran is another public garden, well worth notice, w^here you dine for the above- named price. Thefe two Gardens are open for dinner- company from the firft of May to the laft of September ; aftd during the refl of the year 222 LETTERS FROM ITALY, year the fame Traiteur ferves, at the famef price, in his own houfe at Vienna ; and I would advife Travellers to dirie conftantly with this Man, in preference to having their dinner dreffed at home. The national difh in Germany is fmall chickens fried very dry, being firft cut into pieces, as for a fricaffee ; and this difh is particularly well-ferved by Traiteurs. There are two Theatres in the City of Vienna, and three in the fiiburbs ; rione of them large, but the orcheftra at the Opera- houfe is excellent, and the ftage-decora- tions are good. It is difficult, at this Thea tre, for Foreigners to obtain boxes. Ladies, however, may fit in the parterre, fending before-hand for feats. There are frequent and beautiful exhibitions of fire-wcwks at Vienna. This City, with its Fauxbourgs, Is faid to contain 210,000 People. The diftance from Florence hither, is about nine hundred Tufcan miles ; and the expenfe BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. '323 expenfe of barriers and turnpikes for one carriage five or fix Tufcan fequlns. Our firft days journey from hence was to Stoclcrau, a drive of five hours and a half, through a good but fandy road. On quit ting Vienna we had a beautiful view of the Danube, together with feveral royal parks and gardens, w hich, all united, form a moft enchanting fcene. The Danube is immenfely wide, and, at the fame time, fo clear and gentle as to be a great embellifher of every country through w hich it flows. The road to Stockerau is over an Immenfe plain richly cultivated, and adorned with feveral towns. After fleeping at a clean and comfortable inn (the fign our Saviour and the Woman of Sa maria^ we proceeded in two hours and a half to Mallebern, where, in confequence of one of our party being taken ill, we were compelled to pafs the night at a bad inn. The road hither was flat and good, but fandy; ^4 tETTERS FROM ITALY, fendy ;. the country richly cultivated, ancl^ y much like the fouth of France^ From. Mallebern we drove itt fix hours to Jezelfdotf, through a fiat and- good road, paffing a Chateau belonging to the Empe ror, and a handfome town (with good inns) called Hollabrunn. The towns on this fide Vienna are chiefly built of ftone and brick, while the Tillages confift of neat thatched' cottages. The country is a rich a«d exten five plain planted near Jezelfdorf with large numbers of vines. The water in the laft- named town is bad., After dining hercw^e proceeded in three hours and a half to Znaim, through a good road,*" and an im menfe and richly cultivated plain abounding with com and vineyards. Znaim, the firft town of Moravia, is large, handfome, and built fomewhat like an Ita lian city. It contains feveral inns. We flept * We had extra-horfes to afcend the hill beyond JetelfdOTfi at BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 225 at The three Crowns, and found nothing to complain of except bad water. Next day we drove, in five hours and a quarter, to La Zinca, through a very rough road, and an immenfe plain abounding with corn. The inn at La Zinca Is almoft too bad even to dine at ; wc were, however, obliged to ftop for a couple of hours to reft the mules ; after which we proceeded in three hours and a half to Schelletau, through a very rough road, and an open fwampy country, rich in com and woods of firs. Our inn here was The Poft-Houfe, which we found tolerably good. Next day we drove, in fix hours, to Iglau, through a good road, and an open corn-country, paffing Stannem and other fmall villages on our way. Iglau, the laft city of Moravia, is handfomely built in the Italian flile, and the outfides of fome of the houfes are embeliifhed with curious old paintings. The fquare contains good Vol. II. Q inns. 225 LETTERS FROM ITALY", inns. The fpires of the churches in this country, like thofe of Carinthia, are chiefly covered with white metal. The drefs of the female Peafants is pretty ; but, what ¦looks .odd to foreign eyes, the Women wear fhort petticoats and drawers, while the men's- coats reach to their fhoes. Fur feems much worn by both fexes. After dining at Iglau, we proceeded, in two hours and a half, to Stecken, through a good road -and a country richly cultivated with corn, variegated with wood, and very pretty. The inn at Stecken is bad ; we were, however, obliged to fleep there, though better accommodations may be obtained at Deutfchabrodt, a drive of about two hours and a quarter further, Stecken is the firft poft in Bohemia. Our next day's journey was to CzaflaUf a drive of nine hours and three quarters ; we dined, however, by the way, at Hauvre, where the inn is tolerable. Our road to Czaflau BETWEEN 1792 AND I7(J8. 227 Czaflau, (the firft part excepted, which ^ies over a hill,*) vvas rough ; the country rich In com and woods of fir. Czaflau is a hand fome town, with a large fquare and obelifk in its centre ; the houfes are chiefly white and tiled at top ; the ornaments of the belfries here, and in Moravia, are very par ticular, confifling of five or fix fpires, befides a cupola, all covered with white metal. We flept at The Pofl-Houfe, a tolerable good inn, where the Mafter is remarkably civil and honeft ; for we left at this inn a pair of pif- tols, which were fent after us. Our next day's journey w^as to Planian, a drive of fix hours and a quarter, through a tolerable road, and over a vaft plain of corn. On our way we paffed near Mollln, a large town, and through Collin, which alfo feems confiderable. There are two tolerable inns at Planian, where we flept, in confequence of illnefs ; but ought to have proceeded to * We afcended this hill with extia-horfcs. Q 2 Boemlfchbrod, 228 LETTERS FROM ITALY* Boemlfchbrod, a drive of two hours and a half further. Next day, however, wc reached Prague, after travelling ten hours in a, good road through a vaft plain richly cultivated, and interfperfed with towns and villages, but not pretty. We defcended al moft conftantly for many miles before we entered Prague. This is one of the nobleft Cities in Eu rope, built in the Italian ftyle, and famous for its Bridge ; Its fize likewife Is confidera ble, and its fortifications are ftrong. The inhabitants, however, bear no proportion to the capacloufnefs of the city, as they do not, according to the beft computations, amount to 90,000. The Univerfity of Prague has long been celebrated. The Regal-Palace~~' The Maifon de Ville — and the Hotels Lob- kowitz and Tfchernin, are mentioned by Mr. Dutens as being worth notice, but un fortunately we had not time to fee them. The BETWEEN 1792 AND 1 798. 229 The immenfe and beautiful Bridge of Prague is built oyer the Moldan, which runs into the Elbe. Here are feveral inns ; we went to that called The Baths, which is good, but dear. The Sclavonian language (a dialed ofthe German) is fpoken in Moravia and Bohe mia. From Prague we drove, in four hours and a half, to Schlan, through a good road, gene rally up hill, and over a vaft plain, tolerably cultivated with corn and hops. We dined at Schlan, (where, though the town is rather large, the inn is indifferent) and from thence proceeded, in five hours, to Budin, through a very bad road ; the foil being loofe and rot ten : the country, however, is rich in corn and game. Budin contains two inns, nei ther of which can be called good., Next day we drove, in five hours, to Lobofttz, through a rotten, deep, and after rain, an extremely Q 3 dangerous 230 LETTERS FROM ITALY, dangerous road. To afcend the hill out of Budin, it is requifite that every carriage fhould have extra-horfes; and indeed for the whole poft extra-horfes are ufeful ; and heavy carriages fhould be held up by Men. Immediately after quitting Budin we croffed the Elbe, and generally kept it in fight after wards till our arrival at Drefden. Lobofitz contains two tolerable inns ; The Poft-Houfe, and The Free-Mafon s Arms, (called If Auf- teria Grande) ; we flept at the latter, not be ing able to obtain extra-horfes in order to proceed. Next morning we drove, in five hours and a half, to Aiffig, through a road, bad- at all timesj and exceffively dangerous after rain, being rocky in fome places to a degree that rlfks breaking heavy carriages to pieces, and fo rotten in others that the llghteft vehicle can fcarcely efcape over turning, unlefs held up by Men, And, to encreafe the danger of this road, it lies BETWEEN 1702 AND 1798. 231 lies clofe to the Elbe, on the brink of a precipice. Travellers, whofe carriages are heavy, fhould put their baggage into a waggon, and themfelves either upon horfes or into a light calafh, betw-een Lobofitz and Auffig ; and Invalids ought not to attempt going any way but on horfeback, the jolts being {o violent that it requires confiderable bodily ftrength to bear them ; as a proof of which' two Perfons who went in carriages at the fame time w ith us broke blood-veffels, while others were overturned, and nearly killed with fatigue. It is an extraordinary thing ^hat the Emperor does not have this roa4 mended, as it might be done in a fhort time, and at a fmall expence, efpecially on the banks of the Elbe, where the foil is chiefly a rock. He has, however, lately made the following road from Prague to Drefden, which is reckoned better than that we took: Q 4 From 232^ LETTERS FROM ITALY, From Schlan to Teinitz Pofts I Poflelberg - - 1 Toplitz - . 2 Peterfuoald - - li Zehifl - - 1 Dresden - - l Perhaps it might be poffible to go down the Elbe from Budin to Drefden; from Auffig it certainly might ; though in either cafe, it would be neceffary to fend forward fome hours before-hand that a prpper boat might be provided. The inn at Auffig is fmall but cleans and the country from Lobofitz thither very ro mantic. After dining at Auffig we fet out for Peterfvald, which we were feven hours in reaching, as the road is bad even to be dangerous ; it lies over a high mountain, to afcend which it is neceffary to have oxen or extra-horfes. Peterfwald is the laft town in the impe rial dominions, and does not contain one good between 1792 AND 1798. 233 good inn. But a quarter of a mile out of the town, at a hamlet called Iledorf, or Htlefdorf, there is a clean comfortable public- houfe, which flands clofe to the high-road, on the right hand, the fign being The Free- Mafon s Arms. At this houfe we flept, and next morning drove, in eight hours, to Dref^ den. On quitting Hilefdorf, we afcended rather a fteep hill,* and then paffed a wood of firs, after which we defcended almoft conftantly through a rich corn-country, till our arrival at Drefden. We found the road fometimes rough, but generally fpeaking good, the villages neat, the People clean ; and, after leaving Peterfwald and bidding adieu to crucifixes and madonnas, we did not fee one Beggar. We obferved a com fortable looking inn not far from Hilefdorf, and another at Berna, about ten or twelve miles from Drefden. * We were drawn up this hill by the aid of oxen. The ^34 jpETTERS FROM ITALY, The drefs of the Saxon-Peafants refem-? bles that worn in England fome hundred years fince ; and when we fpoke Englifh to thefe People they frequently underftood us. The approach to Drefden announces the richnefs of the Eledorate ; and at the gate of the City we found a Cuftom-Houfe Of ficer, who waited upon us to our inn, where, on being prefented with a couple of florins, he examined nothing. LETTER between 1792 AND 1/08. 235 LETTER XXV. CiLxlia-ven., July I798, TTXRESDEN is a beautiful City, faid by 7^^^ Dutens, to contain 130,000 Inhabi- « tants, and by Guthrie 110,000; though Perfons refident there rate the population much lower. The architedure of Drefden is fimple, light, and elegant ; the ftreets are ftraight, wide, and clean ; the i'quares fpacious ; the palaces, churches, and other public edifices, magnificent; and the bridge over the Elbe (which divides the old from the new build ings) is one of the fineft in Europe. Here are, as it were, three Cities, the old Town, the new Town, and Fredericftadt, The fortifications are immenfely ftrong ; the environs rich and beautiful ; and the Elbe, though not clear, is broad and handfome. V ' The 236 LETTERS FROM ITALY, ' The Lutheran is the eftablifhed religion of the country, though the Calvlnifts have public meeting-houfes, and the Eledor has one Romifli church, he and his Family being Roman-catholics. The People are quiet, worthy, and very civil to Foreigners, who live here comfortably at a moderate expence. Artifts in general, and Painters in particular, may ftudy with great advan tage at Drefden, not only on account ofthe precious works of genius which are fub- mitted to their view, but becaufe there is a tranquillity in this Town peculiarly favoura ble to ftudy. Here arc feveral inns, name ly, L'Hdtel de Pologne — L'H^tel de Baviere —^L'Hdtel de Saxe — and The Golden(Angel — all of which are good, and the firft is per haps the beft in Europe. Private lodgings may likewife be found without difficulty. The objeds moft worth a Traveller's attention are — The PiSiure-Gallery — The Treafury, or Jew el- Oflice The Cabinet of BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 237 net of Antiques — The EleSiofs Library — and The Porcelain exhibited in the Palace of Count Briihl. In order to gain admittance to the four firft, it is neceffary over-night to fend your name, country, and quality, to the refpcc- tive Diredors, together with the number of Perfons you defign bringing, and the hour at which you mean to come. You may either go from nine till half paft ten in the morning, or from half paft ten till twelve ; from two till half paft three in the after noon, or from half paft three till five. The Porcelain-Warehoufe in the palace of Count Briihl is open to public infpedion from nine till twelve in the morning, and from two till fix in the afternoon every day, feftas ex cepted. To the Diredor of the Pidure* Gallery each Party pays from four florins to one ducat ; and to the Sweeper half a florin; which fum once given you are at liberty to go without expence afterwards. To ' the Mafter 238 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Mafter of the Jewel-Office every party pays four florins, and to each of his Servants half a florin ; which fum once given you are act liberty to go free of expence afterwards. At the public Library you may read as much as you pleafe and pay nothing. The Cabi net of Natural- H ftory , The antique Armoury; &c. fhould only be vifited by Perfons who' have time and money to fpare. PiSiure-Gallery. This immenfe Collec tion, certainly the fineft in Europe, contains chef-d' oeuvres excellently well preferved of the "beft Mafters ; in fhort, no one can ftudy the Drefden-Gallery without becoming a real Connoiflcur. Here are — the judge ment of Paris — the garden of Love-^ — Nep tune calming a ftorm — a wild-boar hunt — ' and a St. Jerome, all firft-rate produdions by -Rubens — feveral works by Netfcher, (particularly a Man feated and" writing,) Wonderful of their kind, and fliewing pre cifely how fmall pidiires ought to be paint ed BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 239 ed — admirable works by Teniers and Aftade, Ruifdael, Wouvcrman, and Paul Potter — but among thofe rare efforts of genius which irrefiftlbly arreft tlie attention and fafcinate the mind, is the Madonna of Holbein, with our Saviour in her arms, and a little naked Boy in the lower part of the pidure. The countenance of the Madonna may vie with the beft produdions of Raffaelle, while the colouring would do honour to Titian. By the laft-named Artift here are two portraits, (a burgomafter and his wife,) which abfo lutely feem alive. The above-mentioned paintings adorn the exterior, or Flemifli Gallery. The interior Gallery, or Italian School, contains an apotheofis of the Ma donna, efteemed the fineft of Raffaelle's eafel-pldures — the Madonna enthroned, holding the infant Jefus, and furrounded with Saints, by Correggio, in his firft man- ner — -the Madonna enthrpned, v/lth the in fant Jefus, St. George, §t. John Baptift, &c. by 240 LETTERS FROM ITALT> by the fame great Mafter, and in the higheft ¦prefervation — his Magdalene, a fmall re-^ cumbent figure, faid to be the moft fault- lefs pidure ever painted — and the Nativity, (called Correggio's night,) by many Perfons deemed the chefd'mivre of painting, though now fomewhat injured by having unfortu nately been wafhed ; ftill, however, there remains an effed of light and fliade which at once charms and aftonifiies. ,,- Other celebrated piSiures in the exterior ¦Gallery are — Luther and his Wife, by J. Holbein — a Child borne away by an eagle ! this pidure, the work of Rembrandt, feems falfely called. The rape of Ganymede — a portrait of Rembrandt, by himfelf; and an other of his Mother weighing gold, by him felf likewife ! — a Sibyl, by Angelica — a por trait of Salvator Rofa, by himfelf — peafants dancing, by D. Teniers — portrait of Henry VIII. of England, by J.Holbein — a Girl with a lighted candle gathering grapes, by Ge rard BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 241 rard Douw ! — a head of N. Pouffiri, by himfelf — Rembrandt's Daughter, by Rem brandt — a fmall Madonna and child, &c. by Albert Durer — fruit and flowers, by A. Min- jon — a landfcape, by Berghem — and another with cattle, by Ruifdael — our Saviour raif ing the Dead, with other fmall but highly finiflied pidures, by Dieterich — a landfcape with lions, by Rubens ! — a landfcape with a foreft and a hunted ftag, by J. Ruifdael and A. Van Velde !— ^feveral pidures by N. Pouffin — the Annurtci ation, by Vander- w^erf ! ! ! — ^Manoah and his Wife facrificing, while the Angel who announced to them the birth of Samfbn afcends to Heaven, by Rembrandt — the repofe in Egypt, by F.Bpl ! — the feaft of Ahafuerus, by Rembrandt — a Girl ftanding at an open window reading a letter, fchool of Rembrandt^^a cock and hen endeavouring to oppofe an eagle who has feizbd one of their yourig, by Honde- koeter ! — a Claude— a landfcape, by Ber- VoL. II. R ghem— 242 LETTERS FROM ITALY, ghem — a battle, by Wouveirriian ! 1 — a Sa tyr and a Faun, by Rubens !— the Madbriria with our Saviour, by Vandyck ! — feyeral exqulfiteiy finifhed heads, by Denner arid Seybold — a Philofopher reading, by S. Ko- nink I — a Banker converfing with a Coun-, tryman who has brought him money, by Q. Meffys— -the judgment of Paris, byVan- derwerf, deemed his chef-d ozuvn ! ! J — a Claude — Jofeph prefenting his Father to Pharaoh, by F. Bol ! — a head of Seybold, hj himfelf — the Madonna, our Saviour, and St. Anne, by J. Van Eyk, the reputed Inventor of oil-coloui;s — St. Jerome peni tent, by Vandyck — a tooth -drawer, by G. Hondhorft — St. Cecilia, 'St. Paul, &c. by Giulio Romano ! — and a Veftal, by Ange lica. Other celebrated paintings in the interior Gallery are — an Ecce Homo, by Guido — -a recumbent Magdalene, by P. Battoni — Apollo and the Mufes, by Tintoret! — a concert BET-vySEN 1792 AND 1798. 243 concert of Mufes, by the fame Mafter ! — the refurredion of our Saviour, by Paul Ve ronefe — a Woman carried off by a Man, at whofe feet lies another Man wounded, by J. C. Procaccini — the repofe in Egypt, by Trevifani — head of a Man with a cap on, by Titian ! — Adam and Eve driven from Paradife, by Albano ! — ^Mars feated, by Ben venuto Garofalo — Samfon combating the Phillfllnes, by Giulio Romano — -an em blematical pidure reprefenting Age and Youth, by P. Liberi — a portrait, by Valaf- quez !— -^the Genius of glory, by .A. Car- raccl ! — ^a Madonna and child, by Guido ! - — ^the Woman taken in adultery, by Tin toret — the fame fubjed, by B. Bifcaino ! !— ^ a recumbent Venus, by Titian ! ! ! — and an other by Guido ! ! — Peace, by Doffo Doffi — Juflice, by the fame ! — -our Saviour in the -ftable with Angels adoring him, by Al- rbauo ! — our Saviour crowned with thorns, and fupported by an Angel, by A. Car- R 2 race] !-— 244 LETTERS FROM ITALYj racci ! — a Bacchanalian feaft, by Benvenuto Garofalo ! ! — a young Bacchus, by Guido ! ! — the prefentation of the Madonna, by J. Bellino — an Ecce Homo, by Guido — Lot and his Daughters, by Guercino ! — Titian's miftrefs, by himfelf — the tribute-money, by Titian — head of our Saviour, by A. Car- racci ! ! — a fuH-length figure of the Ma donna holding our Satlour in her arms. Pope Sixtus V- and S. Barbe adoring, and the beads of two Cherubims below, attri buted to Raffaelle ! ! ! ! — a candle-light, by Rubens^J — a holy Family (called the Ma donna with the bafon), by Giulio Romano -^Loves dancing, and Venus aboye in the clouds, by Albano ! ! — the Bleffed Virgin and our Saviour in glory, furrounded with Saints and Angels, and known by the name of St. Sebaftian, done by Correggio, in his laft ftyle ! ! 1 ! — portrait of Correggio's Phy fician, by Correggio ! — ^portrait of Thomas Parr when above an hundred years of age, by BETWEEN 1792 AND 1 798v 2-15 by Vandyck — a Man tied to a flake and going to be burnt, attributed to Buonar roti — and the Madonna and our Savipur in glory, by Ramenghi, called Bagnacavallo. Cabinet of Drawings in Paftel — portrait of Raffaele Mengs, by himfelf — of his Fa ther, by the fame — and of Cupid, by the fame ! !— feveral other beautiful drawing.?, and fome few fmall paintings in enamel. This Gallery is very warm. * Treafury, or Jewel-Office. igThe moft ftriking things here are — Second room — a fhip of ivory, and a vafe of the fame, with bafft-rilievi reprefenting a battle. Third room — a chimney-piece adorned with all the moft valuable produdions of Saxony, namely, china baffi-rilievi, diamonds, and other precious ftones, pearls, &c. Fourth room — fuperb pieces of plate, &c. Fifth room — fitted up with peculiar elegance, con tains fine cameos — a baffo-rilievo on the fhell of a Nautilus — another large baffo- R 3 rilievo '.^46- LETTERS FROM ITALY, filievo done ouone fihglp piece of marble^, and reprefenting a Youth travelling into foreign countries upon an unbridled horfe ; but, having Virtue for his Guide, Vice flies before him. Sixth room — three pieces- of enamel, by Mengs^antlque enamel — pearls fet to reprefent Men and' Women about one finger high, among which a Potter is much admired. Seventh room' — a Pyramid' of precious [ftones, antique cameos, &e. in the centre of which is the head of Auguf tus II. and^at the foot of the column are fmall enamelled figures, in the refped.iye dreffes of the feveral European, nations. This Pyramid is faid to have coft loo,ooa crowns. Eighth room — an Onyx, efteemed the largeft in the known* worlds — the great •Mogul feated on his throne, and celebrat7 ing his birth-day ; a fuperb toy— an Egyp tian Temple ; likewife a fuperb toy. The Jewels pf the Crown ; being a moft daz zling colledion of the fineft brilliarits ImaT ginable— - BETW-EEN 1792 AND I798. 247 ginable — a large and beautiful green dia mond, faid to be unique, with feveral large red and yellow duwnouds. This is deemed by far the richeft Jew cl-Oftice in Europe. i 'he rooms are paved with marble and very cold. Cabinet of ati tique Sculpture. The moft f r'kiiig things here are — a young Bacchus eaciag grapes — Meleager — one of the Sons 01 Niobe, dead — an Etrufcan ftatue of Mi nerva, the drapery of which is very curious — a c;./^-n7i«;o of Artimefia, in jafper, at tributed to Lyfippus — ftatues of -two feniale Fauns — ^fculapius and Venus, the head of the firft particularly fine — ftatues of Vef tals, found in Herculaneum by the Prince d'Elbeuf, and by far the fineft things in this Colledion : the drapery being wonderfully executed ! ! ! — a fragment of a Gladiator, or WrefUer, going to anoint himfelf, by Phidias ! — -a curious Etrufcan altar — a curi ous Grecian altar, with niches in it — a Sar- R 4 cophagus. 248 LETTERS FROM ITALY, cophagus, with a dog. Here are other valu able pieces of fculpture, but as moft of them have been fadly mutilated and ill-reftored, Artifts only can appreciate th'eir merits. This Cabinet is cold. Under the apartments wrhich contain the above-named Antiques, is a Colledion pf Drefden-China, from , its commencement, by J. F. Bottcher, in l/Ol, to the prefent period. The Inventor of this China was an Apothecary's Man at Berlin ; and, finding himfelf fufpeded of being able to makq gold, he deemed it prudent to retire tp Drefden ; where, being ordered to prepare a powder for the tranfmutatlon of metals, he happened, (in the courfe of his, ftudies on this occafion,) to difcover the art of making Drefden-China. The rooms whicl\ contain this China are extremely damp and cold, arid the Ctftodi expeSis a ducat. There are tv/o Theatres at Drefden. The BETWEEN 1792 AND 1793. 249 The diftance from Vienna to this City Is about 450 Englifh miles ; and the expence of ferries and barriers for one carriage about three Tufcan fequlns. The diftance from Drefden to Hamburg is about the fame ; and, in confequence of hearing that the road was execrably bad, and that the inns were very indifferent, we determined tq difmifs our mules, and go by water, in an excellent boat, with three cabins, four beds, a place behind for Men-Servants, and ano ther before for baggage. Our beds, fuel, kitchen - utenfils, knives, forks, fpoons, glaffes, cups, faucers, plates, and difhes, w ere found by the Mafter of the boat, who paid all the port-duties to the Princes by whofe territories vfC paffed, and maintained himfelf and four Watermen, we giving him 255 dollars of Saxony, (being florins 382|,) an extravagant price, as boats a very' little fmaller go for 125 dollars. Indeed, I would advife large Families to hire a couple of 25a LECfTfEJlS FROM ITALY, of thefe fmaller bpats, by which means tbey would be better accommodated, and; pay fomewhat lefs than we did.* The ^-Ibe is a remarkably fafp river as far as Hanjbqrg, thpugh, ip fome places, fb fti3,)low that large boats are apt tp toqch groqnd;; but thjs does no harm, as the bpt- tpniiis a, foft fand? Wc were {even days and; a half on, pur paflage, the wind being contrary ; but, with a favourable breeze, or indeed npiie at all, i^h.ip ypyage is ufually ^complifhed in lefs than a week ; even ¦thpugh you caft anphor for a few hours every night, in order to avoid the noife which the Boatmeu conftantly make whilp going on. We continually paffed Villages where bread, meat, fifh, vegetables, eggs, milk, butter, and good wine, were to be purchafed, and beer we took from Drefden, ^ It is neceflary to have a couple of mattreffes fop each bed, and curtains to all the cabin-windows. The BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 251 The banks of the Elbe are finely woodcdi The moft remarkable towns wc paffed near were, Meijfen, where die Drefden-China is made, and where there is a covered Bridge over the Elbe. Torgaxv, where there is an pther covered Bridge over the Elbe, (the country from Drefden hither abounds with vineyards.) Wittenberg, a handfome Town, which contains an Univerfity, and is famous. for having been the abode of Luther, whofe Tomb is- in the Church belonging to the Caftle : here, likewife, is a Bridge acrofs the Elbe ; and here provifions of all kinds, beer and wine, may be purchafed bet ter and cheaper than in any other place between Drefden and Hamburg. Cofvick, rather a large Town, not far from which are the celebrated Gardens ofVerlitzen, and by landing at a place where the Boatmen pay a tax, and walking to another place where they likewife pay a tax. Travellers may fee thefe Gardens without delaying their 262 LETTERS fROM ITALY, their voyage. Magdebourg, a large ana ftrongly fortified City, belonging to the King of Pruffia ; where, however, ftrangers cannot land without having their paffport examined. We were detained here fome hours, that our Boatmen might pay the port-duties, which are very heavy. After quitting this City we paffed feveral Vil lages belonging to Hanover, among which was Lanenburg, rather a large place, where, though the People look robuft, there is a. great appearance of poverty. The Elbe becomes immenfely broad as it approaches Hamburg, which City, fuppof ed to contain an hundred-thoufand Inhabi tants, is built fomewhat in the ftyle of an old Englifh country-tQwn. The ftreets are ftraight, clean, and planted with trees clofe to the houfes ; the Quay abounds with Peo ple of every Nation ; the Port is crowded with fhips ; and the whole City exhibits an appearance of being the World's Exchange. Here BETWEEN 1792 AND IfQS. 233 Here are no duties to pay at the Cuftom- Houfe. The inns at Hamburg are neither good nor cheap ; but The King of Enghindj, TJie London Hotel, and The St. Peterfburg, are the moft comfortable. Private Lodgings may be obtained ; though, Uke the inns, they are bad and dear. There are large numbers of Storks on the banks of the Elbe, and in the City of Ham burg ; and, what is remarkable, thefe bird% are hci^ in fiich veneration by the common people, that they would probably murder any Foreigner who attempted fhooting a Stork. The filial piety of this Fowl has long been celebrated ; and its fagacity in other inftances feems equally extraordinary, judging from the foUowing circumftance, which occurred not long fince. A wild ftork was brought, by a Farmer, into his poultry -yard, to be the Companion of a tame one he had long kept there ; but the tame ftork, difliking the idea of a Rival, feU 2i4 %tTrmS ?ROM ITALY, fell upbn the poor Stranger, and beat hirii fb unmercifully, that he was compelled to take wing, arid, with fome difficulty, got away. About four months afterwards, how ever, he returned to the poultry-yard, reco- ¦v?'ered of his wounds, and attended by three other ftorks, who no fooner alighted than they fell upon thef tame ftork and killed him. ^From Hamburg to this Town we went by water, in one of the boats which ufually convey Paffengers, each of which is large enough to accommodate five or fix People, and coritains beds, and a fire-place for dref fing provifions. The time of embarking is regulated by the tide. We were about eighteen hours in going, and paid to our Watermen (three in number,) feventy marks for the boat, and four for drink-money. We found provifions for ourfelves, but not fOr the Watermen. On BETWEEN 1792 AND 1 ^89. 255 On aiTiving here, wc luckily nict with 'a Paeket ready to fall for Yarmouth ; and, therefore, ordered our boat along-fidc of her, and depofited our baggage with the Steward before vfc landed ; which we were obliged to do, in order to obtain from the Britifh Agent here, permiffion to embark on board the Packet ; and this permiffion cofts, for each Gentleman or Lady, twelve fhillings and fix-pence ; and, for each Servant, fix fhillings and fix-pence. For pafl'age-money each Gentleman or Lady pays three guineas, and each Servant half-price. We, how ever, took the cabin, (which contains fix beds,) to ourfelves, and gave for it twcrity- five guineas. Trunks and parcels go coft- free ; but, for every carriage the price is feven guineas, and for every horfe fix. Each Grentleman or Lady pays one guinea for provifions to the Captain, who finds every thing, wine excepted ; and each Servant pays half-price. We gave, as a prefent to the 2S5 tETTERS FROM ITALYj the Mafter of the Packet, a couple of gui neas ; to the Stewards' half a guinea ; and to the Ship's (Company one guinea. Ladies who make this voyage fhould al ways take the cabin to themfelves, or they , muft neceffarily be liable to great inconve niences. The Packets are generally a week in go ing to England, though not fo long in re turning from thence ; owing to the preva lence of wefterly winds. The Harwich-Packets are deemed the beft uppn this ftation, and of thefe The Prince of Wales, Captain Hearn, is the ftrongeft and moft commodious ; the Packet commanded by Captain Bridge likewife is a fine veffel. Cuxhaven, though a fmall Town, con tains clean inns, the beft of 'which is Miles's Hotel. APPENDIX. ( 25; ) APPENDIX. »•«>•< CLIMATES OF THE CONTINENT. 1^ iCY Family was advifed to travel over land to Italy, and we therefore paffed tlirough France. Nice was recommended as the beft winter-climate, and .wc confe- quentlv fpent many months in that City ; but experience foon convinced me that we might have adopted a more eligible plan ; for long journies over-land are^ to confump- tive Perfons, dangerous experiments, not only becaufe carriage-exercife frequently does harm, but likewife from accommoda tions all over the Continent being fo very indifferent, that it is fcarcely poffible for an Invalid to fleep at any inn out of a great Vol. II. S town. 258 APPENDIX. town without fuffering. I would, therefore, earneftly recommend to all cortfiimptlve Perfons, nay, to Invalids In general, the going to Italy by fea, in a veffel bound for Leghorn, and paffing the winter at Pifa, which City I am perfuaded ought, in pul monary complaints, to be decidedly prcr ferred either to Nice, or Mafia, Florence, Rome, or Naples; nay, perhaps to every place in Europe, from the beginning of Oc tober tin the end of April. The marfhy ground and ftanding water about Pifa for merly rendered the climate damp and un wholefome ; but thefe inconveniences are now removed ; and the great increafe of population within the laft few years, has not only banifhed grafs from the ftreets, but difpenfed cheerfulnefs and health through out this elegant City. One caution, how ever, it feems needful to give Invalids, " never to fit, ftand, or walk in the fun, without being defended by a parafol ; al ways. APPENDIX. 259 ways to prefer walking on the fhady fide of a ftreet, and never to go out in a ftrong north-eaft wind." The fame caution. In deed, fhould be obferved in every part of Italy. From the beginning of May till Mid- fummer I -would counfel confumptive Per fons either to refide at the Baths of Pifa, or in the City of Florence; and, during the great heats, to feek a Villa, the more fpaci ous the more wholefome, on thofe hills which lie juft beneath Fiefole, where there is a conftant and fometimes a very frefh breeze from noon till fiinfet, Infomuch that I have fat out of doors In the fhade at mid day, when the thermometer often rifes to eighty- five and ninety, without feeling more warmth than Is eafily fupported ; and as the wind always abates when the fun declines, and the furrounding higher mountains of the Apennine attrad the dews and noxious S 2 vapours. 260 APPENDIX. Vapours, this fituation is not liable to thofe ftrong and dangerous viciffitudes from heat to cold which are common in populous Cities of Italy, and particularly baneful to weak lungs. Lifbon too, as I have learnt from Perfons long refident there, is fubjed to thefe deftrudive changes, infomuch that but few confumptive Patients have reco vered the bleffing of health from vifiting the banks .of the Tagus ; and at Nice I faw no inftance of recovery from a confump tion of the lungs ; neither did this appear extraordinary in a climate replete with elec tric fluid, and where a hot fun, and a cold, drying, and uncommonly fharp wind are perpetually combatting with each other. Maffa, in point of climate, is the counter part of Nice ; and Naples, from the quan tity of fulphur with which its air is impreg nated, cannot be a good fituation in all ftages ofa decline. At Naples, likewife, the wind APPENDIX. 2OI wind is apt to be piercing ; but, at Pifii, the air is uniformly foft, \\ bile the mountains, which riie like an amphitheatre above the City, fcreen it from every wind except fea- breezes. The air of Pifa, however, is fome times complained of as wanting elafticity ; but may not this very want render it parti cularly falutary to weak lungs ? In fliort, I am perfiiadcd, by experience, that the fives of many confumptive Perfons rnight be faved, were they fent by fea to Leghorn, advifed to winter at Pifa, cautioned agalnfl travelling much by land, and, aboye all things, interdided from croffing the Apen nine and Alps, which Pebple firequently dp, in order to fpcnd the fummer-months in Switzerland, one of the moft unequal cUr piates of Europe, Rome, from the beginning of Odober till the middle of May, is, when the lungs gre fo far recovered as to be free from ulcer- S 3 ation, 262 APPENDIX, ation, pven better iu confumptive cafes thari Pifa. Florence, during the height of fummer, though wholefome, is oppreffively hot ; in autumn, temperate and agreeable ; In win-? ter, cold, damp, and liable to moft deftruc- tive viciffitudes of weather ; but delightful late in the fpriqg. To Perfons who require a bracing fummer-climate I would recom mend Carrara, which, from the loftinefs of its fituation, from its vicinity to the fea, and likewife from the days, owing to the height of the mountains, being fhorter there than in mofl other parts of Italy, is nearly as cool as England. The Plain pf Sorreqto likewife is a cool, healthy, an(3 beautiful fummer-fituation for Perfons who yfiih tp be within the vicinity pf Naples, 1?lfiN(5§ APPENDIX. 2O3 THINGS MOST REQUISITE FOR AN INVA LID, AND INDEED FOR EVERY FAMILY TO BE PROVIDED WITH ON LEAVING ENGLAND.A cot, fo conftruded that It may be transformed into a fofa-bed ; two large thick leather- fheets, two pillows, two blankets, two bed-fide carpets, fheets, pillow-cafes, towels, table-cloths, napkins (ftrong, but .not fine), piftols, knives, a pocket-knife to cat with, filver table fpoons ; foup, tea, and fait, fpoons ; fugar-tongs, a filver or plated tea-pot, a block-tin tea-kettle ; a travelling chaife-percee, made to fit the well of a car riage ; a block-tin lamp, made to iex\t for the night, and for boiling water, foup, cof fee, &G. ; a tea and fugar cheft ; irons and an ironing-cloth ; tea, loaf- fugar, fifh-fauce, effence of anchovies, curry-powder, ketch-* up, foy, muftard, Cayenne-pepper, ginger, nutmegs, oatmeal, portable-foup, fago ; pens, pen-knives, wafers, razors, ftrap, and S 4 hone : 204 ' APPENDIX, hone ; needles, thread, tape, wprfted, pins ;^ faddlps and bridles, whether for men or women ; gauze, wprfted flpckings, flannel waiftcoats, and drawers to wear next the fkin, with new fets of each to replace the old ; cork, or common double-foled fhoes 0.nd boots, which are abfoljitely needful in order to refift the chill of brick and marble floors — elaftic.foles ; the London and Edin burgh Difpenfatory, Buchan's Domeftic Ide- dicine, De la Lande's Account of Italy, Duten's Itinerary, a medicine-cheft witln fcales, w^ig^^s, a rhubarb-grater, an ounce and half-ounce meafure for water, a fmall inarble rnortar, and a knife for fpreaduig blifters ; a fet of Inftruments for cleaning ^nd filing teeth, tooth-brufhcs, and leaf- lead; James's powder, caftor-oil, bark, hartf^ horn, fal volatile, asther, pure opium, liquid laudanum, paragoric elixir, ipecacuanha, emetic tartar, vitriolic acid, fpirits of la^ yendcr, camomile-flowers, aRtimonial win*?,. ;¦ ^ calomel, APPENDIX. 265 calomel, fait of wormwood, effence of pep permint, ma^iicfia, bliftering falvc, yellow bafilicum, cauftic, lint, arquebufade, opo deldoc. Thofe Perfons who defign to travel much In Italy fhould provide themfelves with a ftrong low-hung double-perched Englifh coach or poft-chaife, with well-feafoncd corded fprings, and iron axle-trees, two drag-chains with iron fhoes, two drag-ftaffs, a box containing extra linch-plns, nails, and tools for repairing, mounting and dif- mounting a carriage (this box fhould be made inthe fliape ofa trunk, padlocked and flung to the iron-work of the carriage), a well, a fword-cafe, a very light imperial, two moderate fized trunks, the larger to go before, with a padlock and chain for the fmaller ; lamps, and a ftock of candles fitted to them ; the bottom of the carriage fhould be pitched without-fide. Jt being neceffary, on the Continent, to carry 206 APPENDIX. carry your own fjieets, pillows', and blan kets, wheri you travel, I would advife the doubling them up daily of a convenient fize, and then placing them in the carriage by way of cufhlons, makiug a leather-fheet the envellope, , Four or five drops of ftrong oil of laven der diftrlbuted about a bed, will drive away either bugs or fleas for the night ; and the fame quantity of, vitriolic-acid put Into a large decanter of bad water, will make all the noxious particles (depofit themfelves at the bottom, and render the water wholefome. Letters of recommendation to all ouy Minifters on the Continent, are highly need ful — letters to refpedable Italiajis, likewife, are particularly ufeful, and frequently guard Travellers from grofs impofitions. The Englifh complain of being chea,ted in Italy ; but, would they procure recommendations to Men of fafhion and honour, inftead of trufling to Lartguage-Mafters, Inn-keepers 3rtd APPENDIX, 267 and Valets-de-place, they might find them felves much lefs impofed upon. The lower clafs of Italians always form a league to pil lage Travellers ; thus, the Language-Maf ter, who hires your lodging, receives, from the Landlord, a certain ftipend during youf ftay, and this ftipend never fails to be added on to your rent. The Valet -de-place, who hires your carriage, receives his monthly fee from the Jobman, while you pay dearer in confequence ; nay, every Artift or Me chanic you employ, and every article you purchafe, is, generally fJDeaking, taxed by thefe People, or, by your Courier. Perfons who go to It^ly by fea, cannot, however, want this clafs of Servant ; and, indeed, J would counfel thofe who travel by land to difpenfe with {q troublefome a Domeftic, whofe place may always be fupplied by a good poft-book, fome' knowledge of French^ ^nd au honeft ^dive Englifh Man- Servant, who 268 APPENDIX. who underftands the management of car riages. After what has been faid above, concern ing Language-Maftersi it feems but juft to add, that there are, in Italy, feveral Gentle men of high refpedability who teach lan guages ; thefe Gentlemen, however, do not, like the other clafs of Mafters, ply conftantly at inns, and lay themfelves out for the ac commodation of Travellers. PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN TUSCANY. Every draught-horfe is charged at four pauls a poft, unlefs it be a poft-royal, when the price is fix pauls. Every pair of horfes muft be driven by a Poftillion, whofe. claim is two pauls a poft, but who will not bp contented without four. Every' faddle-horfe is charged at three pauls a poft, unlefs it be a poft-royal, when the price is five pauls. The only poft-royal in Tufcany is out of Florence. ¦ An APPENDIX, 26Q An Englifh traveUing-coach, if not parti cularly heavy laden, is fuffered to go from Leghorn to Pifa (tw^o pofts) with four horfes — an Englifli poftchaife is feldom allowed to go without the fame number — a calafh of the country always goes w4th two horfes. The Hoftler at every poft-houfe expeds » half a paul — the fee to the Man who greafes and waters Englifh wheels, is one paul, fup pofing he does not find greafe— if he waters them only, which fhould be done twice a day on long journies, the fee is half a paul. Travellers fliould carry their own greafe both in Italy and Germany. The prices, and other regulations relative to travelling poft in Italy have not been al tered by the late revolutions. CURRENT COINS OP TUSCANY. Englifli, Gold i?z^oOT, equal to about - - 31s. 6d. Gold Sequin - - - - - JO 0 Francefconi Eni jUft. 5s. , Od. 2 6 1 6 1 0 0 9 0 6 0 3 270 APPKNDIX. Francefconi, 6r Scudi, Half ditto. - - - "three- paul piece - J Ty/^o-paul piece - - » Livre - _ - _ Paul - . - . - Half paul - _ _ _ Piece of two cracie, four of which make one paul. Oracle, eight of which make one paul. Qualtrini, five of which make one cracia. Sols, one of which makes three quattririi. The paul piece of Rome Is current for one paul of Tufcany. The two-paul pieces of Rome is current for two pauls of Tufcany, wanting four quattrini. The Spanifh dollar is ufually current for nine pauls and a half. This coin is frequent ly called a pezzo-duro. The real value of the gold rufponi is only fixty pauls, but, iri confequence of the aggio, can feldom be purchafed under fixty-three. The real value of the gold fequin is only twenty APPENDIX, 271 twenty pauls ; but, in confequence ofthe aggio. It can feldom be purchafed under twenty-one. Banker's accounts, throughout Tufcany, are kept in pezze, foldi, and danari, or Jire,foldi, and danari. Twelve danari make one foldq — twenty foldi make one livre- — ^five livres fifteen fols, or at mofl, fix livres, make the Imaginary coin caUed a pezze, or piece of eight ; and for every pezze a Banker charges fo many Englifh pence, according to the exchange, when he gives cafli for a bill upon Londoiu Every Banker, according to the Tufcan law, is either obliged to pay In gold, or to allow an aggio If he pay in filver — the aggio va ries from week to week, according to the demand for gold. The pound weight of Tufcany is divided into twelve ounces ; the ounce Into twenty- four deniers ; and the denier into twenty- four 2^2 APPENDIX; foui- grains. The Tufcan ounce is fome-^ what lefs than the Englifli. The common Tufcan meafure, called a braccio, is about twenty-two and a halt .Englifh inches, two braccia making one ell. Prices at Inns are nluch the fame all over Italy, namely, for a large apartment, twenty Tufcan pauls per day— ^for a fmaller apart ment, fifteen pauls, and fo on in proper^ tion — for breakfaft, one livre per head — for dinner, fix or eight pauls per head — for a cold fupper, one livre per head — for every Servant, three pauls per day. And with re fped to buona-mano* to Attendants at inns, the Walter ufually expeds about one paul per day, though perfons who ftay but a very fhort time ufually give more. The Cook expeds a trifling prefent, and the chamber maid one ftill more trifling. The wages of a Valet-de-Place is four * Drink- money. paulg^, APPENDIX. 275 pauls per day throughout Tufcany, he find ing himfelf in board, lodging, and clothes. LEGHORN. The price of clofe-carriages here is rather exhorbitant ; twelve pauls being ufually charged ori working- days for a fhort airing, and on holidays fifteen pauls, buona-mano inclufive ; neither are the clofe Carriages by any means good. But there is another kirid of vehicle called a Timoneli, numbers of which always ply in the High-ftreet, like our hackney-cOacheS, with this difference, however, they have no fettled fare ; they may, neyerthelefs, be hired at reafonable prices, namely, for an airing to the Ardenza, five pauls — ^to Lontignano, fix pauls — and to afcend the hill, ten pauls — ^for going from place to place within the City, one livre — . no buona-mano is given to the Coachman. The price of a good boat with two Wa^ Vol. II: T termcn. 274 APPENDIX. termpn, to row about the Harbour, or out into the Roads, is five pauls. The price of a box at the Theatre varies according to the merit of the Performers, but is ufually high. The entrance paid by Englifh Travellers, exclufive of the price of a box, is three pauls for an opera, and two for a play. Tea, coffee, fugar, muftard, foreign wines, brandy, rum, arrack, porter, Briftol-beer, and Gorgona anchovies, may all be pur chafed more reafonably at Leghorn than in any other City of Italy ; fo likewife may foap, ftarch, and hair-powder, at their re- fpedive manufadures. Excellent pomatum, and a variety of coloured and fcented hair- powder, effences, &c. may be bought in Via-Grand, of Peruquier, who is, per- baps, the beft Perfumer in Italy. Capt. Williams, in Via-Giardim, is deemed the beft Wine-Merchant' at Leg horn — Wulffen the beft Grocpr— -(he likewife Appendix. 27.) iikew ife has a manufadure of Carrara mar ble*) — ^Mecali, in Via-GranJc, the beft Jeweller, Haberdafher, Linen-draper, &c. — but, in this fhop, as in mofl others on the Continent, they afk double what they take. Mecali has a manufadure of Carrara- marble. Mr. PoLHiLL, a fkilful Surgeott, who lately had the care of our naval hofpital at Leghorn, refides in the Palazto Bertoli, near the Porta-nuova ; and Perfons who employ this Gentleman may be fupplied by him, with Englifh Medicines. The Expert in bargain-making may pur chafe filks, linen, muflin, &c. very cheap, of the Jews ; but, as thefe People commonly afk ten times as much as they take, it is difficult to deal with them. The beft Florence filks may be bought for four pauls and a half, or, at moft, four pauls artd fix cracie the braccie. * Wulffen keeps an excellent table d^Mte. T 2 Perfons 27T5' Ai'PENDlX. Perfons who want much Englifh flanrtel fliould provide themfelves with a ftock at Leghorn, it being difficult to find this ufe ful article of cloathing in other parts of Italy. Provifions at Leghorn are, generally fpeaking, good; butter and oil, however, muft be excepted, as both are very indiffer ent. But it is eafy to obviate this incon venience by having the d^afcina-huttei from Pifa, and oil frpm Lari. There are Carriers, called Procaccini, who go daily to the former place ; and, from the latter, the Peafants come to fell poultry, fruit, &c. at Leghorn, three or four times a week. Invalids may be regularly fupplied with good affes milk at one crace the ounce, (the ufual price throughout Tufcany), goats and cows milk may likewife be procured with eafe ; but, in order to have the laft quite genuine, it is advifable to fend into the country for it ; it is likewife requifite, while APPENDIX. 277 while an afs is milking, for fome trufty Perfon to ftand by, in order to prevent the infertion of hot water. Malta and Genoa oranges, fine dates, and Englifli potatoes, may frequently be purchafed at Leghorn. There is an oyfter-houfe near the City, and the oyfters are very good, but two, three, nay, fometimes, four cracie each. Figs and grapes in their feafon are abundant and ex cellent, particularly the white fig, and fmall tranfparent white grape ; the laft of which, if gathered dry, put into paper-bags, and hung up, may be preferved all the winter. The beft fort of dried figs is generally fold in fmall bafkets of about one foot long and four or five inches wide. Levant-figs and Spanifh raifins may frequently be purchafed at Leghorn. About the month of Septem ber plenty of fine wheat-ears are caught daily on the plain near this City. A Tufcan barrel of wine contains twenty flafks, and a barrel of oil fixteen flafks. T 3 Wood 278 APPENDIX, Wood is fold by the cataftre, the dimcna fions of which fliould be, length, braccia fix — breadth, braccia \\,qr 1 \ — height, braccia two. The price of each place in the public Timoneli, which goes daily from Leghorn tQ Pifa, is two pauls., Boats likewife go dally by means of a. canal, and the paflage-rnoney in thefe vpffels is fix cracie, or at moft one paul, for eacb Perfon. The price of a boat to yourfelf is ten or twelye livres. It is not advifable for Travellers to hire a country-refidence near Leghorn, its environs being reckoned unwholefome. ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OP LETTER,- COURIKRS. ^ufiday at noon, arrl-ve letters from Florence and all the Tufcan ftate, Lucca, the Roman State, Venice, Mantua, Gerr many, &c. Monday morning arrives a Slaffetta, with letters for the Merchants, from Milan, Mantua, Germany, Flanders, Hol land. A^tPENDIX. 279 land, Great-Britain, Piedmont, Vero na, Modena, Bologna, and France, by way of Milan. Tuefday morning arrive letters from Genoa, Lunigiana, Mafla, Pietra-Santa, and generally thole of Spain, Pifa, and Lucca. Jfcdnefdav mor?ilng, from the kingdom of Naples, Rome, Siena, Florence, Lucca, and Pil'a — at three in the afternoon, from Florence, &c. Thurfday ahout tioon, from Venice, England, Holland, Flanders, Germany, &e. Friday morning generally arrive letters from France. Monday evening, precifely at eight o'clock, go letters for Florence, Siena, Rome, Naples, Sieily, Bologna, Ferrara, Ve rona, Milan, and all Lombardy, Ger many, Lorena, Holland, Flanders, Great-Britain, and the other northern Countries; Lueca and Tufcany. Wednefday precifely at tliree o'clock, for Germany, Spain, and Portugal ; and at eight In the evening, for Florence, Pi'ato, Piftoja, and Lucca. T 4 Friday 280 ,; APPENDIX. Friday evening, precifely at eight o'clock,, fo^ Venice, Ancona, Perugia, Germany, Flanders, Holland, Great-Britain, Flo rence, Bologna, Ferrara, Lunigian^, Turin, France, Lorena, Gerioa, Lucca, Pifa, &c. PISA. A Cuftom-Houfe-Officer follows Travel lers to their inn, or lodging, when they cuter Pifa, and expeds a fee of five pauls. A band of Muficians likewife waits upon Strangers at their arrival, and expeds from three to five paub. BEST LODGING-HOUSES. ^ Cafa Lenzi, parte di mezzo-giorno, lung arno, three fetts of large and convenient apartments — Cafa Adami, fame fituat;iou, three fetts of good rooms — Cafa Kanthaver, fame fituation, one fett of rooms, good, but not large — Cafa Crechi, fame fituation, one fett APPENDIX. 28 1 fett of fmall room'? — Cafi Rofa, fame fitua- tioii, one 'eL' of good rooms — Cafa Tidi, fame h^v. i non, t\A o fetts of good apartments — Cafa Agfihti, far c fituation, two fptts of apartirents, one large, the other fmall — ivv; :\ai; another fmall apartment on the quay. H.-ives off the quay — Cafa Schippifi, fe o: ii apartments, all large — Ccfa Braccl aTperfiudi the pair — fhort boots, for Men, three and a half fcudi — Ladies' half-boots, of brown or black leather, fifteen pauls the pair — Ladies' flioes, nine or ten pauls the pair. The general price for making a gown was a fcudo — ^for making a Lady's great-coat, or habit, two fiudi — for making a Man's coat, nine pauls — waiftcoat, four pauls^-fmall-clothes, four pauls. The beft hatters' fhops are on the Cotfo, or at Sa. Maria in Via — muff-fhops abound In every ftreet — the beft Glovers are on the Cotfo, and in the Piazza Madama — the only Maker of good Roman pearls Is Pozzi, in Strada Papale. Silk-fliops — Bevilagqua's, oit APPENDIX; aiJl en the Cotfo, and others in the Piazza Ma dama. Broad-cloth — Fabbrica di Paiini, a Piazza di Venezia — Fabbrica di Panni, a Piazza di Pafquino. The prices of hats, miiffs, &c. ufed to vary according to the aggio on moneta reale, but were always rea-* fonable. Plate is remarkably well and cheap ly made at Rome. Valadier, near Sj Luigi di Francefi, is reckoned the beft Sil verfmith. There is a good Ladles' Shoemaker in the Piazza di Spagna, nearly oppofite to the Ghureh of Trinita de' Monti. Men's Shoe maker, Maestro GiacOxMo, alle Muratle, Mantua-maker, (who likewife makes ha bits,) Al Popolo incontro lo Scidtore del Papa. There are feveral good Roman Taylors. Setter of necklaces, ear-rings, &c. PicconIj Cafe Brucliate al Corfo. Good writing-paper, called Carta del Leoncinb, may be procured on the Corfo, at a fhop which nearly fronts Antoninus's column. Vol. II. Y Cameo- 322 APPENDIX. Cameo-workers — MaNGErotti, Piazza di Spagna-— 'LoiiTymi, Strada Laurina — • -ZuccERi. all Otto Cantoni—V^ST-BLisx, nello Studio di VolpatO. Mofiiic-worker— -Rinaldi, Sotto la Lo^ canda dell Acqulla Nera. Print-fdler— Volpato. Prints are like- wife fold at the Chalcographie, much cheaper than by Volpato. Here, the prices are printed in the catalogue, and ten or fifteen per cent; is deduded when you purchafe any quantity. Drawings and coloured prints are fold by Mirri, incontro il Palazzo Ber nini. Sulphurs are to be purchafed of the Ma ker, by name Dolci, in Strada Condotti. Bankers — Tourlonea, Aquaroni, Castelli, Romanelli. Surgeon and Apothecary — Batistini, Piazza di Spagna. This Gentleman's medi cines are geod, and made according to the Englifli difpenfatory. Dcntlfts-^AMELlA-, fulla appendix. 32;j fui^a Piazza Fanufe — Bourlotti, laconlro Sa. Marl.i in J^ia. The uiiial u^c given by the Rmoans to medical Men, is three pauls a vifit ; from Foreigners, PhyiicLiuj and Dentlfts exped a Spaniih dollir — Surgeons five or fix pauls ; the laft, 'however, are ufually paid when their attendance becomes needlefs. The Theatres at Rome, \vhile t^^e Papal Government continued, were only open during Carnival ; and the price ofa box per night was three or (our fcudi, the Hirer hav ing liberty to frank as much Company as it would hold. arrival and departure of letter- couriers SINCE the revolution. The number of Poft-Officcs at ' Rome ufed to be very perplexing, as every Ambaf fador had his own ; now, however, there is only one Poft-Office. Y 2 Monday 324 APPENDIX. Monday arrive, the National-Courier, the Pra- cacci of the Provinces, and the letters from Naples. Tuefday, the Staffetta of Civita-Vecchia. Wednefday, letters frorn Venice, Lower-Ger many, and Dalmatia. Thurfday, the National-Courier, and Procacci, and the Milan-Courier, with letters from Lombardy, Switzerland, Ger many, Great- Britain, Holland, and the Northern Countries, Turin, Florence, &c. — likewife letters from Naples. Friday— \.eiter?. from Genoa. Saturday-^G\sita-^eeck\\a, Tivoli, Frafcati, and Paleftrina. Tuefday goes — the Naples-Courier. /-^,^ra(f/?/<2)''^-the National-Courier and Procacci. Friday — the Courier of Naples and Florence. Saturday — the National-Courier and Procacci, and the letters for Milan, Venice, Tu rin, and Genoa. Perfons wiflilng to convey baggage by water from Rome to Naples, fliould apply to Padron Giovanni di Lucca, a Ripa Grandci The APPENDIX. 325 The beft Voiturin is Padron Pa SQU ale DA Rapistiello, all Orfo. This man ufually charges one fequin per day for each pair of mules, and pays the paflTage of rivers and mountains, but not the buona-mano. The price of wafhing is rather more rea fonable here than in Tufcany, price of post-horses in the neapo- litan-state. For every pair of draught-horfes, the charge is eleven carlini ; and for every fad dle-horfe, five and a half carlini ; unlefs it be a poft-royal, when both draught and. faddle-horfes cofl half as much again. To every Poftillion it is cuftomary to give four carlini ; and to the Hoftler at ev^^ry poft, half a carlino for each pair of horfes. An Englifh coach, or poft-chaife, ufually goes with four horfes. Y 3 la 326 APPENDIX. In order to enter the Neapolitan territo ries, it is neceffary to procure a paffport from the Neapolitan Court, or one of its Minifters. On quitting Rome for Naples it is needlefs to have your baggage plumbed ; for, on leaving Terracina, (the laft town in the Roman territories) your only tax is three pauls to the Cuftom-Houfe-Officer, who waits upon you at the inn. At Fondi, the firft town in the Neapolitan dominions, fix carlini, or, at moft, one Spanlfii dollar, *giyen at the Cuftom-Houfe, will generally fecure your baggage from examination. At Capua your paffport is figned and examin ed for the laft time. At a fmall Cuftom- Houfe, about three miles from Naples, it is ufual to ftop travellers ; but nothing need be given here, though, to avoid detention, it is advifable to prefent the Men with two or three carlini. When you eutpr the Neapolitan territo ries APPENDIX. 32/ ries pay the poft and expences at inns in pezzi-duri. money of NAPLES. QqIJ. Double ounce, in value, b dueats, or about one pound fterling. Piece of 40 carlini, 4 ducats. Single ounce, 3 dueats. Piece of 20 carlini 1 dueats. Sliver Spanifti dollar, 126 grains. Piece of 1 20 grains, marked " 1 20." Ditto of 100 grains, called a dueat. Ditto of 6o grains, generally marked " 6o." Ditto of 50 grains, marked with the fun and moon. Ditto of 30 grains, marked with a Greek crofs. Ditto of lQ grains, marked with a full moon. Ditto of 24 grains. Ditto of 20 grains, fome of which were marked " 20," others with the golden fleece. Ditto of 1 3 grains, marked with a lion. Ditto of 12 grains. Ditto of JO grains, being one carlino. y 4 Piece 328 APPENDIX. Sliver Piece of 5 grains. Copper Piece of 4 grains. Ditto of ] I grains. Ditto of one grain. Ditto of half a grain. Neapolitan Bankers charge fo many pence for every ducat, and keep accounts in ducats and grains. The exchange with London is fixed every Monday at two in the afternoon. Papers, called Bank-Policies, are much ufqd in payment, becaufe there generally is an ag- gio on gold and filver ; and, when this is the cafe, two little portable fhops are ereded oppofite to the royal palace ; and in thefe fhops policies are exchanged for money at a lefs confiderable lofs than when Bankers change them. Foreigners fliould not pay their own bills at Naples, if they amount to a large fum : for a receipt given in the common way is invalid ; and the only means of being certain not to pay twice over, is to difcharge every debt in bank -policies, wrlt- • '¦ ing APPENDIX. 329 ing upon the back of each policy (in Ita lian) the amount of the fum paid, and lor why. Thefe policies are always filed in the refpedive public banks, and, therefore, if payment of a bill be demanded twice over, you have only to go to the bank from whence your policies were taken, and, upon receiv ing three grains, the Clerks will fearch for and produce your receipt : but, as Bankers generally underftand thefe matters better than Travellers, it is advifable, at Naples, to let them fettle all accounts of Importance. NAPLES. The Neapolitan kane, or meafure, is equal to two yards and a quarter Englifh ; every kane being divided into eight palms. The Neapolitan pound is called twelve ounces ; it Is not, however, above ten : but the more common weight is a rotolo, being thirty-three Neapolitan ounces. LODGING- 330 APPENDIX. LODGING-HOUSES. The price commonly demanded for the beft apartments at Hotels, and other Lodg ing-Houfes frequented by the Englifli, is from eighty to one hundred and twenty ducats per month, during winter and fpring ; and apartments by the night cannot eafily be procured under three or four ducats. I have already mentioned, in Letter XX, the names of the beft Hdtels ; I will, how ever, add, that The Albergo Reale (a good houfe in a bleak fituation) is liable to a ftench from the drains — that The Lione dOro, though fmall, is tolerably warm — that Tlie Albergo di T Emperatore is a good houfe in a damp and cold fituation — that The Aquila Nera is a tolerably good houfe, warmly fituated for the fea-fide, but very dirty — that The Crocele Is a good houfe, but, as it ftands clofe to the tufo-rock, thp fituation muft be unhealthy, and the back rooms APPENDIX. 331 rooms are fo damp as to be fcarcely habit able — that The Villa Impcrialc, a good houfe, is very near the tufo-rock — that The Villa Aprilc, a good houfe, is fo near the rock as to be extremely unwholefome — that LiBOTTE, a Wine-Merchant, has an excellent Lodging, but the fituation is ex pofed, and much too near the rock — and that the Englifli Traiteur has a fmall Lodg ing, near Libotte's, and confequently un wholefome. There are feveral Lodglng- HoUfes on the Chaiai. A good dinner at an Hotel is ufually charged at eight or ten carlini per head ; Servants' living at three or four carlini per day each — breakfaft is charged fo high that moft People find their own. The Jobmen who fupply Strangers with carriages ufually charge as follows. A coach by the month for the whole day, from fifty to fixty ducats, huona-mano inclufive — by the month for the half-day, from twenty-five to thirty ducats -by .332 APPENDIX, — by the day, from twenty-four to twenty- fix carlini — four hours in the morning, twelve carlini — four hours in the evening, twelve carlini. Coaches thus hired, muft go to Portici, or Pouzoli, if required ; though, if detained long at either place, the Coach- rnan will demand an extra buona-mano. The price of a boat per day is from ten to twelve carlini — ditto of each Waterman per day, four carlini. Wages of a Valet-de-place, fpur carlini per day — of a regular Footman out of livery, feven or eight ducats per month — of a Houfemaid tv/elve grains per day: — of a Pook, ten or twelve ducats per month. ' Neapolitan Servants exped neither board nor lodging. Perfons who wifh tp hire a houfe on the Fouria, or in Largo di Caftello, fhould employ fome Neapolitan Gentleman to look out for them. The price ofthe beft houfes in thefe parts ofthe City is not more than two hundred ducats per annum unfurnifhed ; and the hire of good furniture APPENDIX. 333 furniture does not come to more than ten ducats per month. The price of a carriage per month, when hired by a Neapolitan, feldom amounts to above forty-five ducats. Perfons who have their dinner from a Trai teur may be ferved with a fufticiency for themfelves and their Servants at fix or eight carlini per head. Perfons who keep their own Cook fhould not order any particular number of difhes, and pay in proportion ; but, on the contrary, the bargain fhould be made thus — " for every Perfon fo much per head, wood, charcoal, and wages inclufive." Provifions are tolerably cheap, bread ex cepted. The veal of Sorrento is moft excel lent ; hog-meat, in general, and wild boar in particular, excellent likewife ; poultry and game good ; oyfters good, though per haps not fo well fattened as in the days of Lucullus. Fifh in general paffes through fo many hands that it feldom is frefli; the beft fifh, called pefce nobile, are flurione, trig lia. 334 APPENDIX. Ua, sfoglia, fpigola dentale, pefce-fpada, cala- maretti, cernia, &c. other fifh not diftin guifhed by the appellation oi pefce nobile, are very good. The fruit, whether frefh or dried, is exceUent. It is fuppofed that the ancients ufually ferved their cherries and many other fruits in ice and iced water ; and, perhaps, Travellers would do wifely by adopting the fame plan. There are two Perfons who ufually fupply Foreigners with milk ; the one to be preferred lives under an arch leading to the houfe of the Englifh Minifter ; the other in Strada di Chiaia ; thefe Men likewife fell butter, ufually charging for a piece, which weighs little more than ounce, one carlino ; but Families wiflilng to be fupplied with good butter at a reafonable price, fhould employ one of the Sorrento Boatmen to bring as much as t'hey may want, which will not coft above five or fix carlini the -rotolo. The wines In the environs of Naples are excellent, efpecially that APPENDIX. that of Paufilipo; a barrel, delivered in, cofts twenty^-five carlini, and runs nineteen large flafks ; it improves much by keeping, and ftlU more by a fca-voyage. This wine, ufually called the common wine of Naples. is purchafed at Paufilipo. The Proccda- wine, ofthe beft kind, is deemed fuperior to that of Paufilipo, and fells for a higher price. The wine of Puzzuoli is very good. The wine of the Plain of Capri is excellent, and cofts in the Ifland two ducats per bar rel. The wine of Aiio-Capri (wholefom.e but weak), is frequently paffed off upon Foreigners for the former. A barrel of Ca- prl-wlne delivered at Naples comes to about twenty-eight carlini. Each barrel contains fixty flafks. The wine of Piedimontc is of two kinds, fweet and dry, both are fold for one carlino the flaik, as is the Lagrlma. The wine of S. Eufemia is highly efteemed, and keeps for ev'er ; it cofts thirty-two car lini the barrel. Good Malaga may eafily 'oe 335 Appendix'. be procured at fix ducats the rubbio, whlclr meafure runs about fixteen or feventeere Englifh bottles.' The wine of Syracufe may eafily be procured, turns out cheapy and is remarkably fine. Tea and fugar are very dear ; coffee eight or nine carlini the rotolo. The beft HoUand-cheefe (which refembles Chefhire), may be purchafed at fix carlini the rotolo.' The oil of Capri is excellent, and ufually cofts about three du cats and a half the barrel, delivered in-; Fire-wood is fold by the kane, and varies in price according to its quality — the beft often cofts eighteen ducats the kane, which contains fixty-four palms ; it being a rule to have the kane fquare every way. — Fag-- gots for lighting fires, are fold in the fhops at one grain each ; but may be purchafed half as cheap again if bought of the peafants who fiipply the fhops. Wax-candles are about five carlini the pound — tallow-candles eleven grains the pound at the fabbrica-^ twelve- appendix. 337 twelve in the fliops — lamp-oil fix grains the mezzo-quarto. Conimon writing-paper of the country is nineteen or twenty grains the quintefne, which confifts of twenty-four fheets ; Dutch and Englifh paper confidera bly dearer. In Strada maggiore there is a good circulating Library, kept by Giuseppe Merande ; fubfcription twelve carlini per month. The beft Phyficlans are faid to be Dr. NuDY, and Dr. Cotugno. The ope ration of bleeding is not performed by a Surgeon, as in other countries, but by Per fons who follow no other employmeiit. An ounce is the ufual fee given by Foreigners to ^ Phyfician ; and a pezzo-duro to a Bleeder. Medicines at Naples are bad and dear. Commodities beft worth purchafing are, common filks, four palms wide, and ufually about twenty-three or twenty-three and an half carlini the kane — ^filk, called the King's, and fomewhat richer than fhe other, three palms wide, and about twenty-fix carlini the Vol. II. Z kane. 33S APPENDIX. kane."- Cottone efeta, a ftrong warrti' thifig, ¦whieh- wafhes and'' makes 'good commori gowns -or habits; thi-ee palms wide, and- ffbni eleven to fourteen carlini the kane.'-^' Ribbands, all of which are nunibefed, and the prices fixed according td the- breadth : No. 1 1 is eight-penny breadth, and grains fixty- two and an half the • kane^— No; 9 is fix-penrty breadth, grains forty — No. Qj four-penny breadth, grains twenty-fix--^ No. 3, two-penny breadth, grains ten. Sor rento gauzes for gowns, from five to feven Carlini the kane, are ftrong and wafh nearly as well as muflin — common Sorrento gauze,- for mofchetto nets, is twenty-fix grains the kane. Sorrento filk ftockings are the ftrongeft in Europe, and coft from eighteen to twenty-three carlini the pair, according to their fize. Naples foap, made at the convent of Monte Oliveto, is fold at one car-' Uni the ounce — commou filks are fold in 6.reets near Largo di Caftello, which con tain APPENDIX. 339 ¦tain little elfe but filk and ribband fliops. At the Sedile di Porta, likewife, there are good filk fhops. The King's fflk is fold at the Fabbrica reale in Strada Toledo, where alfo are fold rich and expenfive gauzes, and trimmings for court dreffes. Cottone e Seta is fold in ftreets near the filk fhops. Naples is like NA ife famous for its manufadures of tortoife-fliell, and mufical inftrument ftrings. Perfons who hire a box at any ofthe Nea politan Theatres have liberty to frank as much Company as the box will contain. The price of admittance into the parterre at the theatre of S. Carlo is three carlini when the houfe is not illuminated, and five Vfhen it is ; Gentlemen who prefer front feats, however, pay an ex.tra-carllno. The ufiial price of a box in the firft or fecond row is twenty carlini on a common night, and double that fum when the houfe is illumi nated. The price of a box in the third and fourth row is from ten «to fifteen carlini. Z2 The 340 APPENDIX. The price of admittance Into the parterre at every other Theatre is two carlini, except It be when Punclionelh exhibits, and then the admittanfce is dimlttifhed to fifteen . grains. But though Punchonello does not eftimate himfelf fo highly as other Performers, his merit is fuch that, generally fpeaking, more amufement maybe derived from feeing him, than from attending any of the other Thea tres ; he ufually exhibits at the Teatro-nuovo, and at S. Carlina; his price at the former being ten or twelve carlini for the beft boxes, and at the latter ftill lefs. When plays are reprefented, the ufual price at the Fiorentino is ten or twelve carlini for the beft boxes — - when operas are reprefented, the price Is confiderably higher. The beft method of applying for a box is to fend to the Theatre on the morning of the day of reprefenta tion. ARRIVAL APPENDIX. S41 ARRIVAL AND DEP.VKTURE OF LE TTER-l'OU- RIERS AND PROCACCI. Sunday arrive letters from Italy and Germany — Jn the afternoon goes the Courier and the Procaecio of Cilento. Monday and eveiy other day, Sunday excepted, arrives and goes the Courier and Pro caecio of Salerno. Tuefday arrive letters from Buri, Lecce, Fog- gia, Lucera, and Manfredonia — like- wife the Procaecio o( Melfi, Nocera, Materdomini, and Sanfeverino. In the evening go letters to Italy, Ger many, and Great-Britain. fFednefday arrive the Procacci of Rome and Cilento — -^goes the Procaecio of Melfi. Thurfday arrive letters from Spain, Italy, Ger many, and France — Meffina, Paler mo, Malta, and Calabrie — Bafilicata, Sora, and Campo-baflb ; likewife the Procaecio oi^m, Lccce, Foggia, Lu cera, Abruzzi, Calabrie, Ba^licata, Sora, and Campo-baflb. Friday night, goes the Procaecio to Rome. Z ^ Saturday 343 APPENDIX. Saturday morning arrives the Procaecio of No cera, Materdomini, and Sanfeverino— go the Procacci of Barl, Lecce, Abruz- zi, Foggia, Bafilicata, Sora, and Cainpo-baffb — go the letters of Sora and Campo-baflb, 'At night, go the Procacci of Calabrie, Nocera, Mater domini, and Sanfeverino — and of Bari, Leece, Abruzzi, Foggia, Bafi licata, Sora, and Campo-baflb — go, likewife, the letters of Sora and Cam po-baflb. At night go the Procacci of Calabrie and Nocera, Materdomini, Sanfeverino and Monte-Sarchio. At night go letters for Italy and France, Meffina, Calabrie, Palermo and Mal ta — Bari, Tarento, Lecce, Lucera, Foggia, Bafilicata, and Abruzzi. During fummer the Procacci fet off on the Friday night inftead ofthe Saturday morning. On the firft Saturday in every month go letters for Ragufa and Conftan tinople. Every letter that is franked for England pays fix grains. Wafnlng APPENDIX, 343 Waflilng is more oxpenlnc here than in many other Cities of Ital) . SORRENTO. "' , ' Lodglng-houfes may eafily be procured at reafonable prices in the neighbourhood of Sorrento, but they are, in general, unfur nifhed. The houfc of Don Raffaele Starace, at S. Agnello, is however, com fortably furnifhed, and may be hired at twenty-fix ducats per month ; it contains feven rooms above flairs, a kitchen, and one bed-room below ; and what is of far more importance, the Mafter is fo refpeda ble a charader, as is his Mother, who refides chiefly at S. Agnello, that Foreigners, when under their protedion, can never want Friends. The houfc of Don Cristofa^io Spinelli, at Poi^ite Maggiore, contains comfortable apartments; but tlie Mafter bears fo bad a charader that it is uneliglble for Foreigners to become his Tenants ; this Z 4 houfe, 344 APPENDIX. boufe, however, has the advantage of being furnifhed; the price demanded is thirty ducats per month. Houfes unfurnifhed, go at ten, fifteen and eighteen ducats per month. Veal, bread, butter, milk, fifh, fruits, and water, are all excellent in this country ; and hog-meat is fo remarkably fine, that hogs are denominated, the Citi zens of Sorrento. Ice is cheap and plentiful — hams and bacon fell for three carlini the rotolo — butter is five or fix carlini the rotolo — fine oil of three years old, thirty-five grains the rotolo. Families who remove from Na-^ pies to the neighbourhood of Sorrento dur-= ing the fummer-feafon, would do well to take with them wine, vinegar, candles, foap, ¦ fugar, tea, coffee, and medicines. Boats go daily from hence to Naples, and every Pa dron of a boat may be trufted to execute conimiffioris, and bring letters and money for Foreigners. The Sorrento boats go daily at three in the morning, and again at ten. The S. Agjiello and Meta boats go more ir regularly. APPENDIX. 345 /egularly. It Is much fafer to embark at Sorrento than at Meta, there being a dan gerous fcrf on the latter fhore. When the weather prevents the boats from going to Naples, the boatmen will travel thither over-land and back again in feven or eight hours for one ducat. The price paid by each Paffenger in the common boat is ten grains. There is a tolerable Phyfician in the neighbourhood of Sorrento, and feveral good Bleeders, who never exped more, even from an Englifh Family, than a fee of five carlini — the Natives pay only two, if they are rich, and one, if they are poor. The beft me thod of conveying a family to Sorrento is to hire one of the paffage-boats, and embark at Naples about mid-day, at which time tbe wind is generally favourable. Perfons who are fOnd of rowing upon the fea, will find great amufement in examining the coaft of Sorrento, and the Bay of Salerno, which lies a fm.all diftance beyond Meta, PRICE 346 APPENDIX. PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN PIEDMON^ AND SAVOY. For every pair of draught-horfes thq charge is five Piedmontefe livres ;* for every faddle-horfe, two livres ; and to each Pof^- tilllon. Travellers ufiially give about one livre and a half per poft. ESTABLISHED PRICES FOR THE PASSAGE OF MOUNT-CENIS. Firfl feafon,. namely, from the firft of May to the laft of Odober, inclufive — For every Porter, from Lanflebpurg to Novalefa, and vice verfa, three livres— frpm Novalefa tp La Grand-Croix, pne livre ten fols — froui Novalefa to La Ramaffe, twp livres — from Lanflebourg toLaRamaffo ^.1. 5. — Frorn Lanflebourg to La Grand Croix, f.\. 12. 0. Second feafon, namely, from the firft of No- * A Piedmontefe livre is about one flijlling Englifh. vember, APPENDIX. 347 vember to the laft of April, inclufive — From Lanflebourg to Novalefa, and vice verfa, three livres ten fols — from Novalefa to La Grand-Croix, ;^.l. 15. — from Novalefa to La Ramafle, ;^.2. 5. — from Lanflebourg to La Ramaffe, ;^.l. 10. — from Lanflebourg to La Grand-Croix, £.2. Price oithcTraineaux- Guides — fVom La Grand-Croix to La Ra mafle, and vice verj'a, the mule inclufive, f.2. — for the Man who direds the traineau from La Ramaffe to Lanflebourg, £.1. Price of every faddle-mule and Guide, from Lanf lebourg to Novalefa, and vice verfa, during ihe firft feafon, f.2. 10. — during the fecond feafon, f.3. Price of every porter-mule (not carrying more than fourteen rubbi of Pied mont,) from Lanflebourg to Novalefa, and vice verfa, firft feafon, f.3. — -fecond feafon, £.3 10. Mules carrying between fourteen and fixteen rubbi, firft feafon, f.Z. lo.^fe- cond feafon, £.4. The Muleteers are included in thefe charges. Price of mounting or dlf- ' mounting 348 APPENDIX. mounting a carriage with four wheels, f.2. 10. the Diredor of the Mountain being bound to replace every thing that is either loft or broken. It is cuftomary for every Traveller who is carried in a chair over Mount-Cenis, to give the Porters about three livres as a buona-mano. PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN GERMANY. Every draught-horfe, throughout Hun- .gary and Bohemia, is charged at forty-fivp kreutzers a poft ; iu other parts of the im perial dominions, and indeed thrpughont the reft of Germany, at fixty kreutzers, be-r ing one florin a poft. Eyery Poftillion ifi Hungary, Slavonia, Bannat, and franfyl- nia, has a right to fifteen kreutzers a poft, driving only two horfes ; twenty-tyyo, driv ing three ; and thirty, driving four, Every Poftillion, in Bohemia and Auftria, has a right to feventeen kreutzers a poft," driv ing APPENDIX. 340 Ing only two horfes ; twenty-four, driving three ; and thirty-four, drl^ ing four. It is, however, cuftomary to give from forty to forty- fire kreutzers to every Driver of one pair of horfes, fifty to every Driver of three horfes, and fixty to ever}' Driver of four. In Hungary, Slavonia, Bannat, and Tranfylnia, the price for greafing wheels, if greafe be found by the Traveller, is four kreutzers per carriage ; if not, twelve kreut zers. In Bohemia and Auftria the price is fix kreutzers per carriage, if greafe be found by the Traveller, and fourteen if it be not. Carriages are generaUy greafed at every poft. In Germany allow near four hours for every poft — in the Low-Countries two.* The beft money for Travellers to take from Tufcany into Germany, is fovranes, which may ufually be purchafed in a Ger- * Pofl-Mafters in the imperial territories are obliged to take Vienna Bank-bills. man- 350 APPENDIX. man-fhop near the Poft-Office at Florence; and in mauy other fhops, for fixty-two or fixty-three pauls each, and fometimes for iefs. {Fj\erj fovrane at Venice and through out the imperial dominions, is worth fixty- feven pauls and a half) Imperial fequinsj which coft twenty-one pauls at Florence, and are worth twenty-three at Venice: Dutch fequins, which likewife coft twenty- bne pauls, and are worth twenty-three at Venice. Spanifh-doUars, which coft nine and a half pauls at Florence, and are worth ten and a quarter at Venice: Roman and Tufcan fequins are worth twenty-three pauls each at Venice, and Francefconi go for tert pauls and a half. Note, that the paul at Venice is called a- livre, and divided irtto twenty fols. The imperial paul is divided into twelve kreut zers. The florin is equal in value to about two fhllUngs Englifh. Travellers APPENDIX. 351 Tratellets going from Tufcany to Ham burg, fliould have their baggage plumbed at Florence, and pay five pauls ; and plumb ed again at the entrance of the Cifalplne Republic, and pay five pauls. At the gate of Bologna a prefent of five pauls is exped ed. At Ferrara, on quitting the town. Tra vellers ufually give five pauls ; and on croff ing the Canal-Bianca five pauls. Venice. '"'' ' The beft apartments at PetrilLo's, artd other inns, are fifteen or fixteen livres a day < — and dinner is ufually charged at eight pauls a head. The price of a gondola, buona-mano in clufive, is ten livres a day ; each gondola has two Rowers, and contains four PerfonS, who may be juft as well fecured from wea ther as in a coach ; thefe boats being moft conveniently fitted up with glaffes, Venc- tianj 352 APPENDIX. t-ian, and other blinds ; they likewife are furniflied with elegant lantherns at night. The wages of a Valet- de-place is five or fix livres per day. The articles beft worth purchafing at Ve nice are^-gold chains, fold by weight ac cording to the price of gold ; (in payment for thefe chains a fovrane, when I was at Venice, went for fixty-eight pauls and a half) Wax-candles, which ufually fell for between three and four livres the pound. Mocha- coffee — chocolate-pafte, made of melon-feeds, for wafhing the fkin — glafs — books^ — and maps. departure of letter-couriers. At Venice, every Nation has its feparate Poft-Oftice. The Englifli Courier goes on Wednefday and Friday evening— -tthe Cou riers of other countries on Saturday icyening. GERMANY. APPENDIX. 35i GERMANY. MONEY OP THE IMPERIAL TERRITORIES. Sovrane - pauls 67 J Ducat - florins 4| Crown - or piece of florins 2, and kreutzers 16 Piece of kreutzers - 34 Ditto of ditto - 18 Ditto of ditto - 17 Ditto of one paul, or kreutzers 12 Ditto of kreutzers - 10 Ditto of ditto - 5 Ditto of one gros, or kreutzers 3 Ditto of kreutzers - I Art imperial fequin and a ducat generally are fynonymous ; fometimes, however, an imperial fequin is only four florins and thirty kreutzers — other fequins pafs for four flo* rins and twenty-eight kreutzers — the con vention-dollar paffes for two florins through out Germany. Bankers' accourits are kept in florins. It is generally difficult to procure much gold Vol. ii. A a . or 354 APPENDIX. or filver, tvithout paying an aggio for it ; but the Vienna-bank-bills, many of which are as fmall as five florins each, pafs current every where throughout the imperial terri tories, and are always readily changed Into filver. VIENNA. The pourtd-welght at Vienna is eighteen ounces. The common meafure, called a braccio, is fomewhat longer than that of Florence. At The white Bull we paid for fix: rooms, and dinner for three Perfons, bread, wine, and beer, not inclufive, twelve florins per day — for linen, bread, beer, and table wine, fix florins per day — for a job-carriage two florins and a half per day, giving a fmall prefent to the Coachman when we quitted Vienna---fQr a Valet- de-place one florin per day. Theie are in this City excellent hackney- APPENDIX. 355 hackney-coaches at fo much an hour, and good ledan-chairs, into which the Sick can not be admitted. There likewife are feveral good Phyficlans and Surgeons ; and among the former a Gentleman, by name Del Carro, who ftudied at Edinburgh, and fpeaks Englifh. The fhops at Vienna are richly furnifhed. The articles beft worth purchafing feem to be, eyder-down black-lace, furs, Bohe mian kerfeymere, and men's cloth. Eyder- down Is ufually fold at nine florins the pound. Broad black lace from three to fiye pauls the braccio. Kerfeymere, if dyed in grain, three florins and three quarters the braccio — if not, three florins and one quarter. The ufual price in the parterre at the opera-houfe is one florin ; but, upon extra ordinary occafions, two — the ufual price of a box one ducat, but, upon extraordinary occafions, twp. A a 2 I would 356 APPENDIX. I would counfel Travellers to part V9-Ith their Voiturins at Vienna, and go poft from thence to Drefden, the Poft-Mafters be tween the above-named Cities being fo fpiteful to the Voiturins, that the latter can neither procure extra-horfes nor any other neceflary accommodation on the road. ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF' LETTER- COURIERS. Monday morning, arrives the pofl: from Italy, Spain, France, and Great-Britain. Tuefday morning, from Saxony, and the northern Countries. Thurfday morning, from Italy. Saturday morning, fi-om Saxony. Monday evening at three o'clock, goes the pofl to Italy. Wednefday evening, to Saxony, and the northern Countries, Spain, Prance, and Great- Britain. Thurfday evening, to Italy. Saturday evening, to Spain, France, and Great- Britain. The APPENDIX. 357 The pofts of the imperial dominions in Germany arrive and depart daily. A Diligence goes to Prefburg at eight o'clock every morning ; another to Italy at half paft feven every Monday morning ; and another to Prague and Drefden at nine o'clock every Tuefday morning. PRAGUE. The articles beft worth purchafing here are, Silefia lawns, and other linen — Bohe mian luftres, and other glafs. There are good hackney-coaches in this City. DRESDEN. MONEY OF SAXONY. Ducat - - worth florins 4| Crown, or convention-dollar florins 2 Florin - - - gros 16 Half-florin - - gros 8 Cluarter-florin - - gros 4 A a 3 Two 358 APPENDIX. Two gros-piece, marked 12, that number making one dollar.* One gros-piece, marked 24, that number making one dollar. Half-gros-piece, marked 48, that number making one dollar. Piece of 3 pfenpings. Piece of 1 pfenning- Bankers' accounts are kept in dollars and gros, the former being an irhaglnary coin, worth one florin and a half. Spanifh-doUars do not pafs here. The pound-weight of Drefden is fixteen ounces — the aune, or common meafure, two feet — and the foot twelve inches. The beft apartment at the Hdtel de Pologne lets at one ducat per day- — thofe of a fmaller fize are^ of courfe, more reafona ble. Dinner Is commonly charged at one florin per head, though Trayellers may be * Thefe are not convention-dollars, bPt thofe in Vi^hiph accounts are kept. tolerably APPENDIX. 359 tolerably ferved at twelve gros. The wages of a Valet-de-place is one florin a day. The beft Traiteurs are Plan, in the Wilifche Gaffe, who gives a good dinner at eight gros per head — and Geyer, /// the fame ftreet, who keeps a Table d'Hdte, at eight gros per head. Vo gel, in the Schejf el- gaffe, likewife is a good Traiteur, and keeps a Lodging-Houfe. "-Perfons who have their dinner from a Traiteur fhould order It at twelve o'clock, that being the ufual dinner hour. A carriage for the whole day Is about three florins — for the half- day, two florins and four gros. The price of a fedan-chair in the Old Town is two gros for going to any part of it ; and two for returning — in the New- Town exadly double — and the Chairmen charge one gros for every quarter of an hour when they are kept waiting. A a 4 Wine 800 ' APPENDIX. Wine ofthe country is ufually charged at ten gros a bottle, aSrtd bpttled beer at two gxos and fix pfennlngsr The articles beft wprth purchafing in this City are, black and white thread-lace, and maccaroni — -the two firft may be had ofthe Makers— the laft of Rertoli, at his Italian manufadure. ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OP LETTERt couriers. Sunday afternoon arrive letters from Vienna, Prague, &e. ; and likewife from Great- Britian, France, Holland, Hajm- burg, Amfterdam, Flanders, Hanover, Brunfwick, &c. Tuefday morning, from Italy, the Tyrol, Switzer land, &c. Wednefday afternoon, from A^'lenna^ Prague, 8cc. Thurfday afternoon, from Holland, Flanders, Hamburg, &c. Sunday morning, at eight o'clock, the poft goes to Hamburg with letters for Great-Bri tain, &c. Monda-i APPENDIX. 261 Monday afternoon, at three o'eljck, to Holland, and Flanders; and at fix, to Prague, Yienna,&c. Venice, Italy, and Switzer land. Wednefday, at noon, to Holland, France, Den mark, &c. Friday, at one in the afternoon, to Prague, Vienna, &c. Thurfday morning, at eight ©'clock, the Diligence goes to Hamburg — and on Wed nefday moming, at the fame hour, to Prague and Vienna. Letters muft be fent to the poft one hour, and parcels two hours, before the Courier fets out. Letters for Great- Britain pay eight gros each. HAMBURG. MONEY OF HAMBURG. Accounts are kept in marks and fchlUings ; ^ mark being from fixteen to eighteeri-pence Englifh, 305 APPENDIX. Englifh, according to the exchange ; and a fchlUing the fixteenth part of a mark. Convention-dollars do not pafs for quite two florins at Hamburg, no money being current but that of Hamburg and Den mark. The pound- weight is fixteen ounces. Hamburg contains an excellent French Traiteur, who fends out dinners at all prices. We paid a crown a head for dinner without wine, and fix marks a day for our Lodging. The common price for dinner at an Inn is two marks a head. Claret is good and cheap, being ufually fold at two marks a bottle'. Almoft every article of commerce may be purchafed at Hamburg ; but, though exempt from port-duties, things in general are dear, cambric excepted. ROUTES, APPENDIX. 8C8 ROUTES,* &c. ROUTE, BN VOITURIER, FROM PISA TO MASSA AND CARRARA, WITH AN ENGLISH POST-CHAISB AND POUR HORSES. Via- Reggio— mWes iQt) Road good in fummer, hours 62 but very fandy. Inn ap pears clean, town clean, but not in a healthy fitu ation. Between Pifa and this place you pafs the Serchio in a Ferry, and unlefs you bargain that your Voiturin fhall pay the expenee, you will be impofed upon. Pietra-Santa-miles 6 \ ^^^^ g°°^' ^"t very hours 1^' fandy. Near to Pietra- Santa, ig a marfh, the air from which is very un» wholefome, particularly towards fun-fet. The inn at Pietra-Santa is * Steepiog-places are marked with a crofs, thus,+. t A Tufcan mile is fuppofed to be 1000 geometrical paces ; a Roman mile nearly the fame ; that is, about 1 50 yards fhort of an Englifh mile ; and the Neapoli tan mile is longer than the Englifh by about 249 yards. quite 364 APPENDIX. quite at the end of the town, and may be called clean and comfortable ; it therefore is, in point of convenience, a better fleeping-place than Maf fa, though the air and fituation of the latter town are infinitely pre ferable to Pietra-Santa ; befides which, by going to Mafia over night, you have abundant time next day to fee Carrara. The Churches and Convents at Pietra-Santa deferve notice. Near this town are rocks of yellow mar ble veined with black. Maffa - - miles 7 ) Road very good-inn, hours 1| 1^^ p^^^_ r^^^ p^,^^^ and Town of Mafia de ferve notice. Carrara - miles 5 y Road indifferent— inn hours 1| j bad— the beft plan is to fet out very early in the morning from Mafia — > take a cold dinner — fee Carrara, appendix; 36s Carrara, and return to fleep at Mafla. Befides the famous marble quarries, there is afiudlo at Carrara worth feeing. The Inhabitants are remarkably hofpita ble to foreigners. The marble of Carrara is, perhaps, for fculpture, the moft beautiful in the world ; but, from want of proper care in digging and tranfporting it, the blocks are frequent ly fplit and broken, Infomuch that It Is difficult to procure a large block uninjured. We paid for four hsrfes, during three days, feven fequins, buona-mano inclufive. ROUTE FROM PISA TO MODENA, BY THE NEW ROAD. Pofts. MUes. D^ Pisa a P1ST01A+ - 5 36 jGoodaccom- t modations. AllePiafire - - - 1 7| 'Inn neat, and AS. Marcella^ - - 1 9 5 P'^afejitly fi- ^ ' tuated on a hill. Al 36^ appendix. Pofts. Miles. Al Piano Afmatlco 1 8 AlBofco-hng CSS*>^0 - 1 5 A Pleve Pelago + i't^:^^:!") 1 8 Inn bad, A Batlgazzo - - r - 1 8 A Monte-Cenere - 1 9 APaullo+ - - - % 6 Alia Serra de' Mazzoni k 8 AS. Venanzlo 1 8| A Formlglne 1 & A Modena 3 5 7 15|- 126 The journey from Piftoja to Modena was performed with eafe, by an Englifh Gentle man, during the month of November, (and without a Courier to order horfes,) within twenty-four hours,; or, to fpeak more ex aftly, he was on the road travelling feven teen hours and a half, and ftopped for chang ing horfes three hours. The afcents are judlcioufly formed, the road is admirable, and fo well defended from danger that even its appearance is avoided, an uncommon thing APPENDIX. 367 thing in mountainous countries. The ac commodations beyond Pifloja are bad. ROUTE FROM PISA, THROUGH PISTOJA TO FLQ- REXCE. Pofts. Miles. Da Plfa a Lucca - 1 14 Borgo-Bugglano - 1 13 + PlSTOJA li 10 Pkato 1| 10 FlKENZE If 10 8f 57 This is an interefting and a fafe road, though great part of it is very rough, and im proper for Invalids. For the firft five miles after you quit Lucca the country is level and luxuriant, but, afterwards, becomes moun tainous ; the profpedls, however, are pleaf^ ing, as the mountains are cultivated to their fummits. Piftoja is a handfome well-paved town, faid to contain ten thoufand Inhabitants ; it was famous among the Ancients for the de feat of Cataline ; and in modern times, the f^iftlons 368 APPENDfX. fadions of the Guelphs and Gibellirtes have rendered it no lefs remarkable. The fituation of Piftoja is cool, the air healthy, the country fruitful, and the provifions are cheap and goodi The Cathedral, a venerable Gothic Pile, contains feveral monuments worth notice ; and particularly one erefted to the memory of Card'. Fertoguerra, begun by Andrea Verrochio, and finifhed by Lorengetti. Over the high-altar is an afcenfion by Bronzino j and on the walls feveral hiftorical paffages of Scripture are reprefented in baffo-rilievo. The famous Civilian Cino, is interred in this church, and his memory perpetuated by two infcriptions, over which are baffi-rilievi by Andrea, Pifano. The Baptifiery, which ftands in the area before the church, is yery fpacious, and was ufed in the firft. ages of Ghriftianity for bap- tifing Profelytes. Church . of S. Francefco di Sala — feven piftures, by Andrea del Sarto. Church APPENDIX. 369 Chiirch ofS. Projpero — a fine library, in the anti-room of which are bafft-rilievi, by Gornaquini ; orte of thefe reprefents the Shepherds vlfitlrig our Saviour at his birth ; the other, the defcent from the crofs. The Epf copal Palace contains a ftatue of Leo XI. Prato Is a handfome town, faid to con tain ten thoufand Inhabitants. At Poggio-a-Cajano is a royal Palace, the foundations of which were laid by Leo X. DIRECT ROAD FROM PISA TO FLORENCE; Fornacette Pofts. Caft el del Bof CO - 1 La Scala Ambroglana La Lafira 1 FiRENZE 1 Pofts 6 Miles 49. At Cafa-Bianca, or at La Scala, the twoi half-way houfes between Pifa and Florence^ you may dine, or. If abfolutely needful; Vol. II. Bb fleep; 3['70 APPENDIX. flfeep ; though both thefe inns are bad, the former contains the beft beds. The road isr exceUent, and not hilly — the time ufually employed ingoing, ftom eight to ten hours.i I \vould advife all Travellers who take this f oad to go poft, as there Is nothing intereft ing to be feen by the way. Route, going Pbfi, b*rom Florence, through Perugia, to Rome. Pofts. DaFiRENZE aPlan- del-Fonte - - 2 — Road good, but very hilly. A pofl-royali - 2 — Road good, but vety hilly. ¦ - 2-i— Road tolerably good^ Inn good. - 2- — Road tolerably good. Inn good. - 2 — Road bad at all times,- and dangerous in rainy feafons, being clofe to the Lake of Pferugia.- Inn very bad, and fb unwhole- Levane Arezzo 4- Comofcia -(- Torricella APPENDIX. 37 1- Pofts. Perugia - Madorma degli gioli - - Foligno j^ - - Le Vene - - Spoleti.^ unwholefomely fitu ated, that it is impof- ble to fleep at it with out danger. -Road very bad in wet weather. Inn toler able. Ari- - 1 Strettura Terni-t Narni Road good, but hilly. 1 — Road good. Inn toler able. 1 — Road good. 1 — Road good, inn toler able. Here the Poft- Mafter is authorized to put on an extra- horfe. 1- — Road good, but hilly. Here, likewife, the Poft -Mafter may put on an extra horfe. 1 — RoaH good, but hilly. Inn good, but ill fup plied with proyifions. 1 — Road good. A pretty inn at the Vine of Narni. B b 2 Otriccl 372 APPENDIX. Otricoli - - Borghetto - ¦ Civita-Castel- LANO + Pignano - - Caftel-nuovo - Borghettaccio - Prima-Porta - RomX 3 - - 1 Pqfts. 1 — Road good. I — ^Road good, I — Road good, but hilly. Inn tolerable. TRoad good, and a conftant defcent. Going from Rome to Florence this is a pofl-royal ; going to Rome you pay a poft and a quater. Number of pofts 26 — miles, 195|. Roitte going, en voiturier, from Rome to Florence, through Perugia, with an En glifli Coach drawn by four Mules. Hours. Min. DtfRoMA a Monti- rofi ---70 Civita - Castel- 3 30 4 20 3 30 LAN0+ - Vine of Narni Terni + - - Spoleti 5 30 Between Spoleti and ii Folino is La Sora- ma, a high moun tain of the Apen nine. APPENDIX. 373 Hours. M'ui. nine, to pafs which we had two oxen in addition to our mules. Foligno + - - 4 30 PerugiaH- - - 5 30 To afcend the moun tain on whieh Pe rugia ftands, we had two oxen in ad dition to the m*iles. Torricella - - 4 30 Camofcia^ - - 6 Q Arezzo -I- - - 5 30 San-Giovanni - 6 30 FlRENZE - 7 0 Number of hours 631. It Is deemed unwholefome to travel from Florence through Perugia to Rome, from the time when the great heats fet in till after the autumnal rains have fallen. This road, upon the whole, may be called a good one ; and few trafts of country are more beautiful, or more Interefting. Bb3 We S74 appendix. We paid, from Rome to .Florence, In May 1793, forty Roman Sequins, buona-mano in clufive, for. four mules to our Englifh coach, and three to our fervants' coach, which was found by the Voiturin. We were four- Per fons befides three fervants — had one meal a ¦ -It'-' ' day — paid the Waiters at inns — and gave our Drivers one Sequin each for good be haviour. From Florence to JRome, two Englifh Gentlemen and one Lady, with three Ser vants, paid, for an Englifh. coach and fix horfes, thirty-two Tufcan Sequins buona-< mano inclufive ; they had one meal a day. The price charged by Voiturins for con veying goods from Florence to Rome is two Spanifh-doUars the hundred weight. Specie, for fome time before the French entered Romfe, ufed to be fo fcarce, and bore fo high an aggio, that it became prudent for Travellers to take a provifion from Tufcany ; efpecially APPENDIX. 375 efpecially as the money of one Italian ftate is purchafed to, advantage in another, the pommon profit gained being five per cent. On arriving at Rome it was highly advan tageous to exchange fpecie into cedole, of twenty, fifteen, ten, aqd five fcudi each, when bills fo fmall could be obtained. Spa nifti- dollars, and new Tufcan fequlns, were ufually exchanged to more advantage than any other money. The late revolution in the Roman Government, however; has ma terially altered the currency, the moft of the cedole, if not all, being deftroyed ; neverthe lefs, as it does not feem unlikely that thefe bills may, ere long, be revived, I have beeq tempted to Infert the foregoing lines. Many People get their baggage plumbed at Florence in order to fave examination on the frontiers of Tufcany — four or five pauls, however, are always fufficient to prevent the Cuftom-Houfe-Officers from being trou- B b 4 blefome, 376 APPENDIX. blefome, either at Spilonga, the frontier-r village in the Perugia-road, ar at Redicofani, the frontier-town in the Siena road. While the Papal Government continued it was nedeffary, on leaving Florence for Rome, to have, befides a paffport, a Icfcia paffare for the entrance of the Roman-ftate, and another for the Porto del Popolo ; the two laft of which were eafily procured by an application to any Banker at Rome, and jnot only exempted Travellers from being examined at the Cuftom-Houfe, but like- wife precluded all poffibility of their being ftopped by, or compelled to fee Cuftom- Houfe-Officers. Whether It may ftiU be poffible to obtain this kind of laftia paffare I know not ; but If It be, I would advife Travellers on no confideration to enter Rome ivlthqut one. rodti;. APPENDIX. 577 route, going pq/t, prom Florence, through SIEXA," to eome. Pofls. J)a FlRENZE a S. Caffiano Pofts 1 — A poft-royal. The Florence Poft-mafter is authorifed to put on an extra horfe to S. Caffiano, the addi tional price of which is three pauls. 1 — An extra-horfe to Poggi- bonfi ; (do. from Taver- nelle to S. Caffiano.J 1 1 — An extra horfe to Siena. 1 — On entering Siena you leave the keys of your trunks at the gate, and pay one livre, for which they are brought to the oppofite gate, and deli vered up when you pais through. Tavarndle Poggibonfi Caftiglloncello Sleaa+ •• Montarone I Buonconvento 1 Torrenieri 1 — An extra-horfe to Poderi- na ; (do. from Poderina to Torrenieri.) Poderina 378; APPENDIX. Pofls, Poderina - 1' Bicorfi ^ I— Redicofani-^ t V Ponte-Centino 1 Acqucf-Pendente 1- -An extra-horfe to Redicpr fani -The laft town in the Tuf can dominions. An ex tra horfe to Ponte-Cen tino : (from Ponte-Cen tino to Redicofani, a pofl and a half is charged.) -The firft confiderable town in the Roman-State. — r Here your firft lafcla paf fare ufed to be demand ed ; and, if you happened pot to have one, your baggage underwent a very unpleafant exami- liation. S. Lorenzo 1 Bolfena " r 1 — An extrarhorfe to Montq- Fiafcone. Mont e-Flaf cone 1 V1TERB0 + 1— An extra horfe to thq mountain. Alia Montagna Ronciglione MontCi APPENDIX, 37y Pofls. Monte-Rofft - I Baccano - 1 Storta - 1 Roma - 1 — Here, at the Porta del Po polo, your fecond lafcla paffare ufed to be de ' manded. No. of Pofts 2'2| Miles, according to the Poft-books, l64. It is deemed unwholefome to travel from Florence, through Siena, to Rome, from the time when the great heats commence till after the autumnal rains have fallen. Route, en voiturier, from Florence, through Siena, to Rome, with an Englifh Coach and five Mules-, Hours. Poggibonzi - 8 Road indifferent, and very hilly ; country pretty ; inn bad, though it con tains feveral beds. Siena - 4§. Road indifferent ; country beautiful. The Albergo is ^tO AjiPENDIX. Hours. is an exceUent Inn. // Sole, and Itre Re good. Take wine and water from hence for the reft of your journey, both being excellent here, and unwholefome in moft of the fucceeding towns. It it likewife worth while to take fruit from hence. Buqn-Conventoj^ 6 Road heavy and indiffer ent; country barren; inn very bad ; oppofite to it, howeyer, there is a houfe in which the Landlord has two good beds. La Scala - 5. Road rough and hilly ; inn only fit for an hour's bait. Redicofani-^ - 6 Road very hilly and indif ferent ; inn The Poft- houfe, large and good, but cold from its fitua tion, which is near the fummit ofthe mountain. From hence to Acqua- Pendente the road lies through the bed of a torrent, and is fometimes ' danger- APPEN^DIX. 381 Hours. Acqua-Pendente 5 S.LorenzoNuovo + 3 dangerous ; it is advife able, therefore, not to pafs immediately after heavy rain. Approach beautiful ; inn very bad. Road indifferent ; inn fmall, but clean : if you want water replenifti your bot tles here. This village is remarkably uniform, clean, and pretty ; it was built by the prefent Pope, that the Inhabi tants of the country be low might remove hither in order to avoid the peftilential air of the Lake of Bolfena. The town of Bolfena is only one poft from S. Loren- zo-Nuovo, and contains an inn where Travellers may fleep ; though, on account of its proximity to the Lake, it is deem ed an unwholefome reft- ijng-place. Draw up the windows APPENDIXi Hours. VITERBO-F - 8 Ronciglione Boccanoj^ Roma 3 5 windows df yeur carri age when you quit S. Lorenzo-Nuovo, and eX' elude the outward air while you pafs the Lake. Road tolerable ; Albergo- reale, a good irin, whi ther, however, the Voi turins will not take you, unlefs fo ordered. Road very rough and bad. Inn bad, but, neverthe lefs, it is prudent to fleep' here duririg fummer, neither Monti-Rofi nor Boeeano being fafefleep- ing-places in hot wea ther, efpecially the lat ter, whieh was once a lake. The country be tween Viterbo and Ron ciglione is well woodedi Road indifferent, inn good. Rbad good, but rough, be ing chiefly ancient pave ment. Number of hours 5-8^ Perfons APPENDIX. 38d Perfons who wifh to fpend half a day at" Siena, may divide their journey a* foUows. Hours. Poggibonzi+ - 8 Siena -t- - 4 § By an application made at Siena to the Marquis Chigi, you may fleep at his Caftle, at San Qui- rico ; for the inn is exe crable, and can only fur nifh Trayellers with a dinner, which the Wai ter makes no difficulty of bringing to the Caftle. San Quirico + 11 Redicofani 6 S.LorenzoNuovo + 2| Viteebo 6 Monte-Roffl^- 41 Roma 81 In Oftober 1 796, we paid for fiye mules to draw our Englifh coach, and three to draw our Servants' coach, which laft was found by the Voiturin, forty-eight Tufcan fequlns. We were three Perfons befides two IJ84 APPENDIX* two Servants — wc had two meals a day/ and. In the above fum, buona-mano, and every expence, except gratuities to waiters at inns, was Included. We gave our Drivers one fequin each for good behaviour. In April, 1793, we paid, for the fame number of mules, &c. only thirty-two fe^ quins : this laft bargain, however, was rrtade with Roman Voiturins who were returning to Rome. Perfons who happen to remain upon the road one night longer than the time fpeci fied In their agreement, are ufually charged as foUovvs by the Tufcan Voiturins. Supper and bed for each Gentleman or Lady, from four to five pauls ; and' for each Servant, from two to three pauls. Mules, each pair, from feven pauls and a half to one fcudo. Perfons who pay for their own din ner on the road, and defire to be ferved a le mercantile, are charged four pauls a head. One fequin per day is the ufual price for the APPENDIX. 385 the hire and keep of one pair of horfes, or mules, and fi\e or lix pauls per day the ufiial bnoiia-mano to Drivers. S'HE COMMON FORM IN WHICH AGREE MENTS ARE DRAWN UP WITH VOITU RINS. Col prefente foglio da valere come fe foffe pubblica fcrittura mi obbligo, io qui fotto- fcritto, di fomminlftrare al Sig. N. N. *** buonl cavalli per attaccarli ad una carrozza. da fervlre a **** Signorl col di loro equip- agglo, e di piii, un altra carrozza di mea pro- prieta, con altri *** buoni cavalli pr. con- durre le Perfbne di Servizio de' fud''- Signorl con 11 di loro corrifpondente equipaggio, da Flrenze a Roma, co' feguentl patti e con- dlzloni cioe. jmo. j)^ dover partlre la mattina neU' ora ehe fara' convenente ai Signorl N.N. Vol. II. Qq 11^-- Di 386 APPENDIX. IV"- Dl dovere lo penfare in tutto al viag- glo a far le fpefe del pranzo la mattina c cena la fera tanto pe' fud"- Signorl ehe alia Gente dl Servizio con dar loro buona tavola a tenore dell' ufo. IIP"- Di efl!er tenuto a fuppllre alle fpefe di alloggio fi pe' Signorl ehe pr. la Gente di Servizio, con affegnar loro **** ftanze liberc dovendo quelle deftinate pe' Servitori effer nello fteffo piano e contigue a quelle de' Padroni con fornlrle di lumi e fuoco fi alle une ehe alle altre ognl qualvoltafe ne faranno le richiefte. , IV™- Che le fpefe dl paffi fcafe mon- tagne, &c, debbano andare a carico dl me qui fotto-fcritto, tanto pr. le Perfone ehe pr. la roba. V'"- Che doyendo aggiungerfi de' cavalli quando 11 bifogno lo richedera, dovra be- nanche. andare a carico mio fi per trafporto deir enunciate Perfone ohe per II dl loro equipaggio. Eper APPENDIX, 887 Eper radempimertto di quanto mi fono dl fopra obbligato ill prelodato Sig. N. N. fari tenuto -di corrifpondcrmi la fomma di zecchini **** Romani, o moneta d'argento equivalente comprefa la buona-mano a tutt' i Poftiglioni la quale dovrk andare a carico mio ; e nel cafo il fud"' Sig. N. N. voleffe trattenerfi in qualche luogo fari egli obbli gato pagarmi paoli **** per ognl giornata intiera e paoli **** per ognl mezza giornata. Eper I'offervanza degli efpreffi patti ob- bhgo me, i mlel credi e fiifceffari, beni tutti ftabili, e mobili, prefentl e futiri. Prefenti I teftimonj Sig. N.N. e Sig. N. N. Firenzc *** 1 798. Jo N. N. mi obbligo come fbpra. JoN. N. Teftimonio.) Jo N.N. Teftimonio.) La fud*- firma e di propria mano del fud'' N. N. U quale fi e obbligato come fopra pre- icnti 1 Teftimonj Sig. N. N. e N. N. ed C c 2 in 388 APPENDIX. in fede pr. Io Notaro N. N. da Firenze di chlefto ho fegnato. N. B. When the journey Is a long one. It may perhaps be more prudent not to com- pfife the huona-mano in the agreement. Route, going poft, from Rome to Naples. Pofts. Torre - 1 A poft-royal — pay the a- mount, buona-mano to poftillions excepted, to thePoft-Mafter atRome ; the People at Torre be ing fo worthlefs that it is fcarcely poffible to have any thing to do with them without a difpute. Take efpecial care that nothing be ftolen from without-fide of your car riage at this place. Albano - ] A good inn. Road from Rome hither excellent ; but fo bad from Albano to Gienzano, that an extra-horfe is frequently put on. Gienzane APPENDIX. 389 Gienzano Pofts. 1 Veletri Cafe-Fondate Sarmonetta - Cqfe-Nuove - H Road from hence to Vcle- tria, fo bad that one or two extra-horfes are fre quently put on. A bad inn, where it is, however, poffible to fleep — road from hence to Terracina, oyer the Pon tine Marfhes, excellent. It is not prudent to pafs thefe marflies early in the iriorning or late at night; and, before you fet oiit, -eat a piece of bread, drink a glafs of wine, and fprinkle your carriage with thieves' vinegar — do not go to fleep while upon them, and, on no confideration drink the water of the marfhes. Allow five hours for travelling over this unwholefome trad; of country. Cc3 Plperne 390 APPENDIX, Piperno - - Maruti - - Terracina + Pofts. 3 * 1 1 Two good inns. — At the better of the two the prices are extravagant, a pezzo-duro per head being charged for diur Fondi ner, and a fequin per head foi- fupper and beds. 1 1 A bad inn, where it is, how ever, poffible to fleep. Itri - -I Molo-di-Gaeta 1 „ Cariglianq r I if, Agado - 1 FrancoTifi - \ Capua r 1 An excellent inn. Here you pafs the river of this name in. a ferry — r the ftated price for every carriage is five carlini. A bad inn, where it is, how ever, poffible to fleep. If you have a Servant on horfeback, let him go be-: fore to get your paffport examined and figned, otherwife you may be kept here for an hour. eria Napoli APPENDIX. 3QI Pofts. Napoli. - 1 The whole of the road in the Neapolitan ftate is good. No. of pofts igi — miles, 155 — time, with an Englifh coach and four horfes, from 28 to 29 hours. Perfons in robuft health, who go poft from Rome to Naples, may, by fetting out very early the firft morning, reach Terracina at night ; and, again, by fetting out yery early on the fecond morning, they may reach Naples at night. If, howeyer, ill- health, fhort days, or any other caufe, fhould compel Travellers to fleep two nights on the road, the beft plan would be to drive the firft day to Albano, (which takes up about two hours) fee Albano and its environs, fleep there — fet out very early the fecond day, drive to Molo di Gaeta (which takes up about fixteen hours ;) and, by purfuing this plan. Travellers pafs the Pontine Marfhes, fit the wholefomeft time, namely, between, C c 4 nine 303 APPENDIX. nine in the morning and three in the after- r.o---ii; let oat e;iriyon the third day, and drlye to Naples, vvhich takcb ap ten or eleven hours. route FROBf ROME TQ NAPLES, en -Votturier,^ WITH AN ENGLISH COACH AND SIX MULES. Veletri 4- - hours 8 Terracina 10 Fondi + 3 iS. Agado ^ - - IQ Capua 5 Naples ' - ¦ , 5 Number of hours 41 We paid fixty Spanifh dollars for ten mules, that is, fix to our own coach, and four to another carriage with four places, found by the Voiturin, buona-mano to poftil lions not inclufive — we likewife paid one dollar per head for fupper and beds for our felves, three pauls per head for ditto, for Servants, and two pauls per head for Ser vants' APPENDIX. 3QS vants' dinner. The ufual buona-mano to each Poltillion is three or four dollars. At Terracina, the ^'^oiturins pay one dollar for every Gentleman or Lady's fupper anc} bed, and five pauls for every Servant's ditto — • but if Travellers pay for themfelves, the price is double, as has been already men tioned. Route, going p ft, from Naples to Rome, Apply to the Roman Government for a lafcia-piiftare for Terracina; and. at the fame time requeft to have another lodged for you jat the gate of S. Giovanni di Laterano, at Rome. Send to your Minifter at Naples to procure a licence for as many draught and faddle-horfes as you want ; otherwife you cannot obtain them — take a paffport from your own Minifter, and another from the pourt qf Naples, Verfa 394 APPENDIX. '• Fofts. Verfa 1 A poft-royal. Should you be flopped at the Dogana, about three miles fronj Naples, give nothing,but order your Poftillions to Capua I proceed, FrancoTifi 1 S. Agado Carlgllano 1 1 Molo-di-Gaeta 1 Itri . _ I Fondi Terracina Maruti Piperno Cafe-Nuove - Sarmonetta - Cafe-Fmdate 1| Two extra-horfes from the inn to the tap of the hill above Molo - di- Gaeta, two carlini. One extra-horfe from Itri, to the top of the hill, two carlini. If you have a lafcia-paffare, pay nothing at the cuf tom-houfe. 1 1 1 ll 1 Veletri APPENDIX. 3^5 Veletri Pofts. 1 Two extra-horfes to Gien zano. Gienzano 1 One extra-horfe to Albano. Albano 1 Torre - 1 Roma - ¦ 1 S.OUTE, going poft, from Switzerland io Turin, farouge to Eluifet 1| Ry fendhig to the Poft- Mafter at Carouge and ordering his horfes to fetch' you from Ge neva, you fave the ex- pence of hiring horfes at Seeheron, and ftill pay only one poft and a half. Frangy — -r-. Mionnaz — - H 1 Rumilly+ — Aix-les Bains Chambery 1 If li Here we got the Bol- letonne, mentioned in Letter II, renewed. MontmUian - - li Mal-taverne - - 1 Aiguebelle+ 1 Erpierre 390 APPENDIX, Erpierre Pofts. 1 La Cf.ambre 1 £:'. Jean de Mau- riemie - 1 St. Michel - - If St. Andre - - li Modane -f - - We flept .the. poft here, though is further on. and gave tra. for fo ten livres ex- doing. Villarodln Bramens Lanflebourg Taverneties Novalefa -f i. 4'' you travel with a Cou rier, he is obliged to ride poft over Cenis. We fet out very early from Modane, wifh ing to arrive before mid-day at the foot of the Mountain. ja - - Giaconera S. Ajnbroglo Rivoli Torino-^- H 1 1 H Number of pofls 2Q Number of hours 49I Perfons APPENDIX. 397 Perfons goinsr this road fliould take wine with thera, cither from Turin or Geneva- ROUTE, going pofl, from FLORENCE, through BOLOGNA, VENICE, VIENNA, PRAGUE, Olul DRESDEN, to HAMBURGH. Fonte-huona - Cafaglolo Monte Carelll Covigliaja - Ftlicaje - Pofts. Between Lojano and Pia- nora you pafs a bridge thrown over the Savena, and pay one paul for every chaif^ with two wheels. Lojano - - - 1 Pianoro - - - l| Bologna - - 1| 5. Giorgio - - J§ You pafs a bridge thrown over the Naviglio, and pay one paul for every two-wheeled chaife. Centt - - - 1 You pafs the Reno in a ferry, between Cento and S. Carlo. S. Carlo 398 APP] Pofts. ENDIX. S.. Carlo - - - 1 Ferrara '- - - If Yoll paft the Po 'in a ferry, between Ferrara and Rovigo, Rovigo - - - ll Mokfelefe - . - 1 Padova - - - H Dolo - - - ll Fufina - - - If ' From Fufina to Venice you go by water, and the diftance Is five miles — from Venice you return by water to Meftre. Trevifo - li Conegliano - - li Sallce - - - li Portonon,or Pordononel^ Cotroipo * If you take the Clagenfurt-road, go from Porto- non to S. Paternion, in order to reach which place you muft crofs the Tagliamento, and then proceed to Villach - - Pofts ll Velden - _ _ Clagenfurt S. Veit Triefach - _ > ] i Meumarck * ; _ Unfm^rck APPENDIX. 3iOJ) Fofti. Cotroipo - - H Udine - - - i§ Nogarezo - . - ir Goertz u Czereiileza - 1 Wippach - 1 .There is another road to Ober-Tiaybach. FrevcM ¦ - 1 Adelfberg - I Laffe - - - - 1 Ober-Layhach 1 J Laybach - - 1 Poffctfch - J^ S. Op,jli - - 1 Tranilz '- 1-1 The poft-map fays, only one poft. am . - - n Janoivitx 1 Feiflrltz - - - 1 Mahrhurg - - 12 One poft only, by the map. Ehrenhauffen - 1 Pofts. Unfmarck li ¦•a Judenburg ¦* 2 Knitteifield - - 1 Grauhath - — I Leoben - - 1 Bruck « • 1 Lebermg 4.00- APPE-NDIX, Leberlng Kahlfdorff - Gratz - _ - Pegau Rotefiein Bruck on the Muhr Morifhofen - Krleglach - Meerzufchlag Schottwein Neuklrchen - Neuftadt Drafkirchen - Vienna Enzerfdorf Stockerau Mallebern Hollabrunn JezelfdorfZnayni - . -, Freinerfdorf Budwltz Schelletau StannemIglau - . . StekenDeutfchbrodt Pofts. One pofl only, by the map. Steinfdorff appendix. 40] Steinfdorff Jenikau Czaflau Collin Planian Bohm-brod Blchowltz Prague SarzedoklukSchlan Teinitz Pofte/berg Toplitz Peterfwald Zehifl Dresden , MeiffenStauchitz HubertJburg, or Wermfdorff Wurtzen Leipzig LandJberg Cothen Kalbe Magdeburg Burgflall Stendal Vol. II. Pofts. } IX 2 Dd Ofterburg 402 appendix Pofts. Ofterburg - If Arendfee - 1 Lenzen - li Lubten - 21 Boltzenburg - 2 Efcheburg - 2 Hamburg - li Route, going pofl, from Florence, through Mantova to Cuxhaven. Fonte-buona ] L Cafaglolo Monte- Carelli 1 - -•' CovlgUajo FilicajeLojano Pianoro ] XL' 2 Bologna - _ \\ Beft inn. The Pele Somoggla Modena ] grino. X , I I2 Carp . - Novi - 1 1 S. Benedetto - Mantova Roverbella - W The Poft. Verona 1 appendix. 403 Pofts. Veroxa - - 2§ The due Tore. Volciriii - - li Ben - - H Ala - - H * RovereJo - - \l The Rofa. Aequa-viva - TrentO - - n The Europa: Sal urn - tn H Neuniarci - Branzol - - Botzen - - fhe Pofl. Teutfchen - - Colman - - Brixen - - Ober-Mltteivald - Storzlngen - Brenner - - ,'- Steinach - - Schonberg - - - Inspruck* - Thi Aqulla d'ora: Zlrl - - Delfs - - Melnlng - - 1 4 * You may likewife go from Infpruck to Dirfchenback - _ i Barujis . _ j Nazareith - - i D d 2 Nazarelth 404 APPENDIX. Pofts. Nazareith - - 1 Lermos - 1| Reith Fuefen - 1 - 1 Saumeifler - li Schwabbruck - 1 Schwabdlffen - 1 Hurlach - 1 Augsburg - li The tre Mori. Meitlingen - li Donauwert - li Nordlingen - - li Dunckelfpuhl - 1 Crellfheim - - li Blaufelden -¦ li Mergentheim - 1 Bifchoffhelm - li Wurtzburg - li Hotel de Franconia. Carlftadt-Mlles - 3 * Hamelburg - 3 Bruckenau - - 3 , Fulda - 4 Hiinefeld - 2 * In Upper and Lower Saxony, Brandenburg, Heffe, Sec. you are charged by the mile, and not by the poft. Five Engiifti miles make about one Ger man niile, and two Geiman miles one poft. Vacha APPENDIX. 405 Pofts. Vacha - ' 3 Berka - - 2 Elfenack - - 2 Liderbach - - 2 Bifchhaufen - 2 Helfen - - 3 Cassel - - If HM i Angleterre, Munden - - 2 Gottingen - - 3 Nordhehn - - 2 Eimbek - - 2 Bruggen ^ - 3 Dia-Wtefe - 2 Hanover - - 2 Hanftade - - 2 Hademfdorf - 2f Walfrode - - 2 Rotenburg 3 Clqfter-Seeven - 3 BremervUhrde - 3 Bederkefa - - 3 Nauemvald - If Cuxhaven - 2i NOTESJ NOTE S. Note, referring to Villa Riccardi di Medici. We fpent a fummer at this Villa, and once, dur ing the vintage, invited the furrounding Peafantry to a dance. Our ball-room was a lofty hall, fixty feefe by thirty, and in the centre ofthe cieling hung a luf tre compofed of fuch light materials, that every pu.fF of wind gave it motion ; indeed^ it had the appear ance of being turned round by an invifible hand ; this luftre we filled with candles ; and the walls, (on which hung full-length portiaits of the Medlci- Priiites,) we decorated with feftoons of vines, flowers, and lamps, fo that the whole apartment refembled an illuminated arbour. At furi-fet on the appointed day our guefts appeared all togetlier upon sl lawn which encircles the Villa, preceded by their own band of mufic ; which, no fooner ftruck up a lively tune, than the Dancers prefented themfelves at the hall-door, forming, as they entered, a quadrille, which would have been admired on any Opera-ftage, efpecially as the dreffes of the female Dancers were beautiful. No fooner was this exhibition over, than all the women advanced in couples to the top of the hall, where we were feated, paying their compliments to us with as much elegance as \ they had beci. bred in a Court. After this ceremony we had another qua drille, different from, but quite as prel|ty as the firft; and with a fucceflion of thefe dances we were amufed till fupper, after which our Vifitors, who had been regaled with Englifh punch, .a liquor they particularly ¦iOaili, came once more to us, when the Women \ gracefully NOTES. 40t gracefully ruturned thanks for their entertainment ; and then kilfing our hands, and prefenting their own .iliaps five to flieu) tJtf grateful and Jt^icnte turn of mind poffeffed by tht Tufcan Peafantry. One dav, as I was walking with my Family near Careggi, we law a Girl, perhaps ten or twelve yeais of age, watching a flock of goats, and at the fame time fpinning wilh great dihgence ; her tattered gar ments berpuK.c extiLiiie povert ', but her air was dig nified, and her countenance fo interefting, that we were irrefiftibly impelled to prefent her with two or three cracie. Joy and gratitude inftantly animated her fine eyes, while, to our aftonifhment, ftie ex claimed : " Never, till this moment, was I worth fo much money .?" Struck by her manner, we enquired her name ; afldng, likewife, where her Parents lived. " My name (replied flie,) is Teresa; but, alas, I have no Parents !" " U ho, then, takes care of you ?" " The Madonna.'' *' But who brought you up ?" " A Peafant of ^"alombrofa; I was her Nurfe-Child ; I have heard her fay my Parents delivered me into her care, but that flre did not know their name. As I grew up flie almoft ftarv,ed me ; and, what was ftill worfe, beat mc fo cruelly, that at length I ran away from her." " And where do you live now V " Yon der, in the plain ; (pointing to Val d'y^rno.) I have luckily found a Miftrefs who feeds me and lets me fleep in her barn : this is her flock." " And are you happy now ?" " O yes, very happy — at firft, to be fure, 4CS NOTES. fure, 'twas lonefome lying in the barn by myfelf^ 'tis fo far from the houfe ; but I am ufed to it now ; and indeed I have not much time for fleep, being obliged to work at night when I come home ; and I always go out with thefe goats at day-break : however, I do very well, for I get plenty of bread and grapes, and my Miftrefs never beats me." Having learnt thus much, we prefented our new Acquaintance with a paul ; but to deferibe the extafy this gift produced is impoflible — " Now, (cried flie, when a flood of tears had enabled her to fpeak) now, I can purchafe a Corona* — now, I can go to mafs, and petition the Madonna to preferve the good Ladies at Careggi. On taking leave of this grateful Girl, we defired fhe would fometimes pay us a vifit ; but, to our furr prize, we neither faw nor heard of her again till the ^ay before our departure from Careggi, when it ap peared that, immediately after her interview with us, flie had been feized with the natural fmall-pox, and, though unaflifted by medicine, air and low living had at length reftored her to health. During the next fummer, we again refided at Careggi ; but, for a confiderable time, faw nothing of Teresa ; one day, however, we obferved a beautiful white goat browfing near our gate, on opening which, we perceived our Protegee with her whole flock. W*e eagerly enquired why we had not feen her before — f' I was fearful of obtruding (replied flie) but I have watched you at a diftance Ladies, ever fince your re turn ; and I- could not forbear coming a little nearer * Without a Corona Ihe informed us that (he could not bi peif- Kiitted to go to mafs. than notes. 409 than ufual to-day in the hope that you might notice ine. We now prefented her with a fcudo, and en treated that flie would fometimes call upon us. " No, Ladies, (anfwered tlic fcrupulous Girl) I am not pro perly drefled to enter your doors ; but with the money you have kindly given mc, I flmll immediately pur chafe a ftock of flax, and then, if I fliould have health to work very hard, I may foon be able, by idling my thread, to get decent apparel and wait upon you, clothed witli the fruits of your bounty." And indeed it vvas not long ere we had the pleafure of feeing her come to vifit us neatly clad, and exhibiting a pidure of contentment. The following route may deferve the notice of the traveller, in conneftion with the route going poft from Geneva to Turin, given at page 395. Route, going pofl, fromTuKiN aver the Maritime Alps /oNice.. Da Torino a Carignano - Pofts Racconigi Savigliano Centallo CoNI Borgo S. Dalmazz d Limone TendaBreglio - - Sofpello - Scareno Nizza Ibh the end. T. Gillet, Primer, Saliftury-Square. NEW PUBLICATIONS. The under-mentioned valuable and interefting Books havS been publifhed, fince fhe Commencement of the prefent Winter, by R. Phillips, No. 7 1, St. Paul's Church-^ yard ; and may be had of all Bookfellers. I. Iu two elegant Volumes, foolfcap Svo. price qs. (Embeliifhed with Two Vignette Titles, and with Fac Similes of the Hand-Writings of Mr. Gray and Mr. Walpolty ; WALPOLIANA, Confifting of original Bon Mots, Apophthegms, Obfervations on Life and Literature, with Extrafts from unpubliftied Letters of the late HORACE WALPOLE, EARL OF ORFORD. 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In one very large Volume Oftavo, Price HalF-a-Guinca in B«an)8, THE ANNUAL NECROLOGY. Or, biographical REGIS! KR. ConfifUng of Memoirs of the Diftinguiflied Perfons who died in every Part of the Worid in the Courfe of tne Years 1797 and 179S, of variou* Articles of neglefted Biography, &c. Stc. The prefent Volume contains correft Lives' of the fo1lov»ing Perfont: Jeffery Lord Amherft George Anderfon, A. M, Jean Sylvain Bailly Robert Bakewell Abbe Bartlieleray George Benda The Count de BemftorfF James Bruce, the traveller Godfrey- Auguftus Burger Edmund Burke Catharine II. The Marquis de Condorcet Daniel Dancer Sir John Dryden, Bart. Louis Dupujr Dr. Fanner Rev. John Fdl Colonel Frederick Count de Herttberg General Hoche Sir William James, Bart. Rev. Andrew Kippis, D. D. Reinier de Klerk Lavoifier Field-Marlhall Loudon Rev. William Mafon John Williiim Lewis Mellmann Francis Neubauer Thos. Pennant, LL.D, F.R.S. ice. 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Boards, of THE MEDICAL AND PHYSICAL JOURNAL, (Publilhed on'the firft day of every month, price 2S. each Number) Containing the earlieft Information on Subjefts of Medi&ine, Surgery, Chemiftry, Pharmacy, &c. &c. with original Correfpondence from the moft eminent Piaftitioners in Great Britain ; Under the general Superintendance of DR. BRADLEY, Member of the Royal College of Phyficians, London ; Phyfician to the Weftminfter Hofpital, and to the Afylum for female Orphans, Leituier «a the Theory and Praftice of Medicine, &c. iV«t; and Interejling Booh puiliJlTed-iRs tVmter by R. PHtLLlPSi VIII. THE MONTHLY FASHIONS OF LON DON AND PARIS ; Containing from ten to fifteen faftiionable Dreffes, in every Number^ drawn from the real Life, intended for the Ufe of Milliners, Mantuamakers, and private Families in diftant parts of the Kingdom, and in every part of the World in which the London and Paris Faftiions are objefts of imita tion. ¦ Price IS. 6d. per Month. Two new and valuable School Books, and the only cheap elementary Works on the fame interefting Subjects. -IX. A Second Edition, revifed and correfted, Price 4s. 6d. bound, with the ufual allowance to Schools, embeliifhed with a beautiful Frontifpiece and with Portraits, THE BRITISH NEPOS; or, Mirror of Youth. Being feleft Lives of illuftrious Britons, who have been diftingiiiOied by their Virtues, Talents, or remarkable Progrefs in Life, with incidental praftical Refleftions. Written purpofely for the Ufe of Schools, and carefully adapted to the Situations and Capacities of Youth, BY WILLIAM MAYOR, LL. D. Vicar of Hurley, Beikftiire, and Chaplain to the Earl of Dumfries. •' In prefenting this work to the Public, Dr. Mavor has made a valuable and much wanted addition to the School Library. To Britifh Hiftory, Chronology, and Biography, the attention of Britifh Youth ought to be awakened : and while we give Dr. Mavor the praife and credit which are due lo him for this Biographical Manual, we would recommend it to the Mafters of all our refpeftable Schools. It is pleafingly' written, and the refleftions interfperfed are calculated to infpire a love of pure and generous principles. Emljracing the moft eventful and important periods of Engiifti Story, this rich variety of biographical matter muft prove acceptable to young Readers, and to fuch as thirft for knowledge. The example of the good and wife has always been confidered as conducive to virtue, and Dri Mavor's mode of ftudying Biography muft give it peculiar efficacy." Monthly Re'vimw, fune. X. Alfo by THE SAME Author, price 4.5. 6d. bound, NATURAL HISTORY, For the life of Schools. Founded on the Linn .ffi AN Airaiigement.of Animals ; with popular de fcriptions in the manner ot Goldsmith and Buffonj Illuftrated by Forty-six accurate Engravings, reprefenting One Hun- DRED and Fifty ofthe moft curious Objefts. '_' Natural Hiftory is a ftudy particularly liiited to Children ; it cultivates their talents for obfervation, appUes to objefts within their reach, and to o'ojefts which are eveiy day interefting to them." Edgworth on Praffical Education. " It is tobe regretted that Buffon, with all his excellence, is abfolutely inadmiflible into the library of a young Lady, both on account ofhis im- modefty and his iinp.ety. Goldfmith's Hiftory of Animated Nature has many references to a divine Author. It is to be willied that fome perfon would pubhlli a new Edition of this Work, purified from the indelicate and offenfive pa''^-" Mifs More's Striaures on Fem.Ue Education. T, Gillet, Printer, Salilbury Square, Fleet Streel!. YALE UNIVERSITY a39002 00 2i»02189b YALE