YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE

AMERICA.

RECOLLECTIONS

SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA,

INTERSPERSED WITH ORIGINAL ANECDOTES,
ILLUSTRATING THE MANNERS OF THE INHABITANTS

THE GREAT WESTERN REPUBLIC.

By PETER NEILSON.

GLASGOW:
DAVID ROBERTSON, 188, TRONGATE; AND
WILLIAM TA1T, EDINBURGH.

MDCCCXXX.

HUTCHISON AND BROOKMAN, PRINTERS,
VILLA FIELD.

PREFACE.

So much has of late years been written regarding
the United States of America, that it almost looks
like presumption to offer any thing new on the
subject. In a country, however, of such extent,
and amongst a people of such enterprise, there are
circumstances worthy of remark daily occurring ;
and in submitting the following observations to
the candour of my countrymen, I would, with all
due deference, remark, that nothing can ibemore
distant from my sentiments than to exalt America
at the expense of Britain, or to depreciate the
former at the expense of truth. Having spent
nearly six years in different parts of the Union,
I have no hesitation in saying, that, for the poor
man of industry or perseverance, America holds
out many inducements ; to the man of capital, the
temptation is not so great, considering the disad
vantages inevitably attending emigration to a new
country, and change of climate. I have seen pub
lications, exhibiting in strong terms, " the misera-

PREFACE.

ble and degraded state of the. people of America."
Possibly some of these works were penned by
men who had never stirred out of Britain, and
who, in writing, had no other purpose to serve than
to eulogise countries, not to be compared in any
respect, either moral or physical, to America.
For my own part, I have neither motive nor in
terest in writing for, or against America ; but pos
sibly some of the following remarks may be of use
to, or at least tend, in some degree, to amuse such
of my countrymen as may deem them worthy of
perusal. Being brought up in the counting-house,
I can make no pretensions to what is technically
called fine writing ; but this I will be bold enough
to assert, that I have advanced nothing inconsis
tent with truth, or at variance with what I have
actually seen and heard. The greater part of the
succeeding remarks were put together during the
course of 1828, and were intended chiefly for the
information of a few friends who felt interested on
the subject, and were desirous of obtaining a sum
mary sketch of what may be called real life in
America. A work has been lately issued from
the press by a celebrated naval character, which I
have perused, I need scarcely add, with much
pleasure. I would merely observe, however, that
the gentleman himself is perfectly aware, that

PREFACE. Vll
owing to the nature of his numerous introductions,
his intercourse was chiefly with. what may be cal
led the American nobility, who were, moreover,
completely on their guard, being apprised of his
intention of " taking notes." My intercourse with
the Americans was wholly in the way of business
as a merchant, or rather as a fixed inhabitant of
the country; consequently there was little occasion
to conceal or disguise their feelings or sentiments
from me.
In the different anecdotes I have given, were it
of any possible use, I could have given the names
of the parties at full length, but I have no wish
to harrow the feelings of any individual. It may
be deemed that in some instances I have endea
voured to exhibit the American character in a fri
volous- or ridiculous point of view, by dwelling too
much upon their frailties or vanities — nothing is
more at variance with my sentiments than this ;
my most fervent wishes would be much gratified
in contemplating the Americans divested of that
preposterous vanity which obtrudes itself into
many of their most ordinary transactions.
I respect their character upon the whole, and
cannot but say, that, next to my native country, I
know of no place on earth where a person may
live in more security and comfort, provided their

Vlll PREFACE.
health is good, and they are of themselves posses
sed of an ordinary share of forbearance on certain
topics. I have enjoyed many pleasant days in
America, and have many friends there whom I
cannot soon forget ; nor can I ever cease to have
a deep interest in the welfare of the inhabitants of
the land that gave birth to two of my children, and
in which are deposited the ashes of several of my
dearest relatives.
I may add here, that an old acquaintance of
mine, recently arrived from Philadelphia, j called
upon me a few days ago, and I was informed by
him, that the prices of weaving, and the other
branches of labour connected with the manufac
ture of cotton .goods in that city, continued as high
as during the periods referred to in the following
pages, and the number of hands employed in the
cotton manufacture in Philadelphia and its vici
nity, was considerably above what I had antici
pated. Glasgow, June, 1830

RECOLLECTIONS OP A RESIDENCE

UNITED STATES.

CHAPTER I.
VOYAGE TO NEW YORK — YELLOW FEVER — TEMPORARY CITY — HOS
PITAL DUES — APPEARANCE OF - STREETS — DRAYMEN — PEARL
STREET — CITY-HALL  CHURCHES AND MONUMENTS  ORPHAN
ASYLUM — HOTELS AND BOARDING-HOUSES.
The ordinary details of a voyage across the At
lantic have been so often descanted upon, that it
may seem superfluous to. say a word more on the
subject. People in good circumstances, who are
disposed to sacrifice a little money for the comforts
of a cabin passage, will find it, in the long run, the
most advisable plan, to take their passage in one
of the regular packets from Liverpool. The hand
some accommodation, and profusion of luxuries to
be had on board these vessels, will more than
compensate for any additional charge; to say no
thing of the agreeable company usually met with ;

SIX YEARS RESIDENCE

and it is rare to meet with any thing like inattention
or incivility from the master of a New York pack
et, their character being at stake in this respect.
Ships not expressly fitted up for passengers, are
often in want of sundry little niceties extremely
agreeable to the palate of a person labouring un
der that most cruel of all possible maladies — sea
sickness. Many remedies have been proposed for
this disease, but, in general, without farther effect
than a temporary putting off of the evil day : this
may do well enough in a voyage across the Irish
channel ; but a person who sets his face to an At
lantic excursion, will do well to offer no resistance
to the efforts of nature, but endeavour to keep
moving about in the fresh air. People in this
condition are generally unable to take their vic
tuals as usual ; but if instead of attempting to cram
themselves with a profusion of rich and high-sea
soned viands, (which, in this case, rather disgust
than provoke appetite,) they would, for a few days,
restrict themselves to the simplest fare, such as
oatmeal porridge and molasses, and a little soup
and bread, they would find this arrangement set
them on their feet in a twinkling. I have seen
stout ploughmen, who, by incessant fasting and
sickness for ten or twelve days, were brought al
most to the gates of death, instantaneously recov-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 3
ered by a good dose of oatmeal porridge. People
who find it eligible to take a steerage passage, and
generally have to find their own provisions, would
do well to lay in a good supply of oatmeal, and a
quantity of cakes madefrom the same material, twice
fired : — a supply of tea, coffee and beer, or porter,
will also be very advisable, as the water on board,
for a few days at first, more especially, is often un-
palateable. My last voyage to America was in 1 822 —
when, with my wife and infant child, I embarked
on board the ship Camillus, Captain P — k, from
Greenock, bound for New York :— a young lady
and a boy were the only other cabin passengers ;
so that although our society was very limited, we
were relieved from the confusion and bustle ine
vitably occasioned on ship-board, by a number of
strangers congregating within the precincts of a
ship's cabin. The captain was a very smart, civil
Yankee, and one who could give or take a joke in
regard to national matters, with a mucb better
grace than the majority of his countrymen. — He
was beyond every thing attentive and humane to
his steerage passengers, of whom there were about
fifty. In general, I have found a smart gale or two
in crossing the Atlantic ; but during this voyage,
a 2

SIX YEARS RESIDENCE

the weather was so moderate, that a common
wherry might have safely made the attempt. About
half-way across, there was an addition made to
our ship's crew ; one of the emigrants' wives hav
ing given birth to a daughter, which was after
wards, according to custom, christened " Camil-
lus." The fortieth day brought us outside Sandy
Hook, when we received a pilot, who informed
us, to our great discomfiture, that the yellow
fever raged in the city. Having crossed the bar
at the mouth of the Hudson, the country on
each side presented a very beautiful and interest
ing appearance. The ship was brought to anchor
at quarantine ground, about eight miles below New
York, and boarded by the health officer, who re
viewed the passengers mustered on deck in their
best apparel, and was much satisfied with their
healthy and cleanly appearance, giving them a
very friendly admonition to avoid going into the
city, or exposing themselves unnecessarily to the
weather. From this spot, the hospital and the ad
jacent buildings on Staten Island upon the left, are
seen to much advantage, being delightfully situated
close to the shore, near the foot of a very conside
rable rising ground. — The city is also in full view.
We remained at anchor all night, and next morn
ing proceeded up the river, passing the city on

IN THE UNITED STATES. 5
our right, which truly presented a picture of de
solation, the numerous wharfs being entirely bare
of vessels, not a soul to be seen stirring about, the
streets covered with lime and charcoal, and guard
ed at each end by a high fence, and the doors and
windows of every habitation and store closely
shut. We cast anchor opposite to a part of the
town deemed sufficiently healthy, nearly three miles
above the point which forms the southern bound
ary of the city. On going ashore, the bustle that
prevailed was beyond description, nearly the whole
of the business-part of the city being removed out
to the fields which skirt the suburbs. An im
mense variety of temporary wooden buildings, such
as may be seen at Glasgow during the fair, were
speedily erected for the accommodation of the ci
tizens; and the business transacted here during
two months was prodigious ; some of these build
ings were fitted up as hotels, where 200 or 300
people were boarded, but the accommodation for
beds, &c. at such a time, may easily be conceived
to have been none of the best. For such accom
modation, however, people were very happy to pay
an extravagant price ; and in many instances, in
the first hurry of the business, until a sufficiency of
booths were erected, respectable persons were
obliged for nights to bivouac in the fields. This
A 3

6 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
may give an idea of what formidable terrors the
first appearance of the yellow fever creates. With
much difficulty we obtained a room and small clo
set at 9 dollars per week, (40s. 6d.) and this was
much preferable to the confusion of a large board
ing house, where I could not obtain accommoda
tion for less than 25 dollars (£5 12s. 6d.)* per
week, for my very small family and servant.
* In the course of the following remarks, I have invariably
calculated the dollar at 4s. 6d. as that is the standard rate of
exchange ; and although at times (indeed generally since the
peace of 1815) the rate of exchange is against America, that
is to say, that suppose while you are in America, you wish to
remit funds to Britain, you must pay sometimes as high as 13
per cent, premium for a bill upon the latter country : for in
stance, a bill on London for £100, at the above rate, will cost
you 502 dollars, and 22 cents, in place of 444 dollars, and 44
cents, which is the par of exchange. The fluctuating nature
of exchange, however, between the two countries, does not
really affect the relative value of the dollar in regard to Ame
rica, as a dollar is always reckoned a dollar or 100 cents in
that country, and will go as far in purchasing the necessaries
or conveniences of life, whether it is nominally called 4s. or
6s.. or 8s. I have observed in a late publication on the United
States, that the dollar is generally calculated at 4s. 3d. This
is taking the rate of exchange into view, which should not be
the case. — Suppose that an emigrant should be able to pur
chase 1000 dollars in Glasgow, at 4s. each, he will, upon his
arrival in America, find that these dollars are just as valuable
in procuring him any kind of property as any other dollars
that, ever were current in that country ; but should he wish to
remit the said 1000 dollars to Britain whilst bills are at 12£
per cent, premium, he will just exactly be enabled to purchase

IN THE UNITED STATES. 7
In this irregular and temporary city in the field,
you might find in one groupe, banking-houses, in
surance offices, coffee-houses, auctioneers' sale
rooms, dry goods, hardware, and grocery stores,
milliners' shops, barbers' shops, and last, though
not least, a suitable proportion of grog and soda-
water shops. In the bustle and confusion which
prevailed from dawn to sunset, you might easily
trace, in the anxious visages of the thousands who
acted on this busy stage, one overwhelming, unva
rying passion — the desire of gain. This state of
matters continued till nearly the end of October,
when a slight black frost appeared, which instant
ly dissipated all fears on account of yellow fever,
and the consequent numerous removals back to
the city, resembled the breaking up of the camp
of some great army.
a bill for £200, which is the net amount originally laid out in
Glasgow. In drawing a bill upon Britain, say for £200, the
drawer first calculates how many dollars at 4s. 6d. each, £200
amounts to, which is 888 dollars, and 88 cents, add to this
12J per cent, or l-8th, and the gross amount is 1000 dollars.
Suppose, again, that exchange on Britain is at 5 per cent, pre
mium, (which is sometimes the case) then 1000 dollars will
purchase a bill for £214 5s. 9d.
At the end of the volume, I have subjoined several money
tables, which mav be found useful to persons interested in the
American trade, or who intend to visit the land of dollars and
cents.

8 SIX YEARS RESIDENCE
Cabin passengers arriving in the United States,
must make an entry for their luggage at the cus
tom-house : this is done at an expense of only 20
cents (Hd.) The utmost civility is shown in ge
neral by the custom-house officers, from the col
lector down to the land-waiter, and hardly any
trouble is given in overhauling one's luggage. An
oath is taken by the person making entry, that he
has no articles intended for sale. The captain of
the ship makes one entry for the whole of the
P steerage passengers' luggage. It may be observed,
that every individual arriving at New York, is
charged with li dollar (5s. 8d.) as hospital money,
which must be paid for old and young. The
owners of the vessel have to come under a bond to
the United States, to the amount of several thou?
sand dollars, by which they are bound in damages,
should any person whom they import become
chargeable to the state as a pauper. A law to this
effect in Glasgow would, doubtless, tend in a great
measure to relieve the distress of our native ope
ratives, by preventing such inundations of poor
workmen and paupers from our sister island.
The city of New York is situated in latitude
40° 42', north, longitude 74° west from London, on
an island formed by the confluence of the Hudson,
or North River, and a small arm of the sea, which

IN THE UNITED STATES.

connects the Atlantic with Long Island Sound, —
the name of this island is Manhattan, and it lies
about 20 miles north from the opening where the
Hudson empties itself into the ocean. On the
south side of this opening is placed the lighthouse
of Sandy Hook, from whence sailing up the chan
nel towards the city, the view is very striking. A
great number of strong forts are built on each side,
completely commanding the channel; and to esti
mate their strength from the number of guns, and
weight of metal, it would be no easy matter for a
fleet, even of 20 or 30 sail of the line, to make
their way to the city. The circular fort on Go
vernor's Island, mounts 52 heavy guns on the two
lower tier of ports, and 26 on the upper tier,
cabled 50 pound columbiads.
The city being built upon level ground, has not
that imposing appearance in approaching it, which
it would certainly command, if placed upon a de
clivity. From the number of lofty steeples with
which it is adorned, it has a bold appearance ;
and the great quantity of shipping generally in
port, presents to the eye of a stranger no mean
idea of this great depot of commercial enterprise.
On landing at any of the principal wharfs, a fo
reigner will require to keep a good look-out, else
he will run no small risk of being rode over by

10 six years' residence
some of the New York draymen, who drive ony
full, or not full, like so many opposition coaches.
Accidents from this spirit of Jehuism have repeat^
edly occurred in the city, both from coaches and
drays, without in the least damping the ardour of
the drivers.
A person arriving at the. east-side of the city,
will form a very mean idea of its splendour ;
but by the time he arrives at the principal street,
Broadway, he will form a more exalted opi
nion of this " London of America," iis it is
sometimes' denominated. This street runs nearly
north and south for about 2J miles, averages 80, feet
in width, and is pretty nearly so far built up. The
houses in this, as well as in most of the principal
streets, are of brick, generally from three to four
stories in height ; but the brick houses in Ameri
ca present a much livelier and cleaner appearance
than might be expected, as they are almost inva
riably painted the colour of brick, and the. seams
or interstices pure white. In most of the genteel
dwelling-houses, the door steps and lintels, and
window sills, are made of fine free-stone, or white
marble; the plates and other ornaments on the
principal doors of some few houses in the lower
part of the town, are made of pure silver. This
is very unlike republican simplicity. A few of the

IN THE UNITED STATES 11
side pavements are of broad flag stones ; the rest
are of brick, and the middle of the streets of good
whinstone, with which the island abounds. The
lower part of the city is very irregularly built.
Pearl Street, for example, which is the principal
business street, runs from near the foot of Broad
way, in an eastern direction, and after describing
a semicircle, enters the same street after a course
of about I5 mile. This street, it is said, was the
tract of the cattle, belonging to the first settlers, to
their grazing grounds, and as the colony gradually
increased, the people erected their huts on each
side of the cow-path, hence its irregularity. The
greater part of this street is occupied by stores ;
and the New York merchants seem to have a great
notion of exhibiting their merchandise on the pave
ment. There is absolutely no getting along in
good weather, the whole pavement being piled up
with bales and boxes, or in the intervals you meet
with nothing but open trap doors ready to swallow
the careless or unwary traveller. Even when these
doors are shut, and the rest of the pavement1 clear,
walking is dangerous at night, as they are invaria
bly raised a few inches above the rest of the path :
to a stranger they are perfectly annoying.
From the manner in which the cities of America
are built, they cover a much larger space of ground

]2 SIX years' residence
than cities of an equal population in Britain : al
most every house is occupied by one family only,
and there is a back-yard, less or more, attached
to each dwelling. The streets of New York are
by no means famed for cleanliness ; but there is a
certain species of abomination which adorns too
many streets and closes in Scotland, with which
you are never disgusted in any town in America.
It is a difficult matter, however, to find a closs
in New York, and I never saw but one turn
pike stair. On remarking to a friend in Scotland,
that the Americans were a remarkably cleanly peo
ple, he observed, " No thanks to them; the climate
obliges them to live cleanly."
The most conspicuous public building in New
York is the city hall, which is certainly a superb
edifice ; the front and sides being built of white
marble, the rest of grey free-stone. The length of
this building is 216 feet ; the wings are 105 feet
deep; it contains the public courts of justice, the
mayor's court, police-office, &c. The expense of
erecting it cost 500,000 dollars (£1 12,500 ster
ling.) The New Exchange recently erected in Wall
Street, is a spacious and splendid building : —
several pillars in front are each of one entire
stone, about 27 feet in height, and weighing above

IN THE UNITED STATES. 13
25 tons. — This building is, however, by no means
situated so as to be seen to advantage.
There are a number of handsome and spa
cious churches in New York; a description of
them all would be unnecessary in this place. One
of the most elegant is St Paul's, built in 1765,
under the old Government. It stands in a cen
trical situation, and has a very imposing look :
the front is adorned with fine pillars, and there is
an elegant spire 234 feet high ; the church is 113
feet by 72; the inside is richly adorned with sui
table ornaments, and fine crystal chandeliers ; it
is calculated to accommodate 4000 people. In
the front of the church there is an elegant mar
ble monument to the memory of General
Montgomery, who fell at Quebec in 1775. In the
church-yard I observed a very handsome pyrami
dal monument of white marble, about 12 or 15
feet in height ; it was erected by Mr Kean the
actor, to the memory of his unfortunate proto-type
— Cooke. While gazing upon it, I could not
help thinking upon our noble Burns' tribute to
poor Ferguson in the Canongate. — There are few
natives of Britain, I should think, who have seen
this monument of Kean's good-heartedness, with
out feeling a sentiment of indulgence towards that
wonderful actor. B

14

SIX YEARS RESIDENCE

There are several other churches of like dimen
sions with St Paul's, and equally elegant. The
building of churches has at least kept pace with
the increase of population. In 1826, the 103d
place of worship was erected within the city, so
that there is no want of visible religion in this
quarter. In 1696, the population of New York being 6000, there were 3 churches.

¦ 1790, the
¦ 1800, the
• 1805, the
¦ 1810, the
¦ 1816, the
¦ 1820, the
¦ 1823, the
• 1826, the

supposed

33,13], 60,439,
75,770, 96,373,
100,619, 123,706, 135,000,
150,000,

2131
39 5357 6967
103

Of these churches in 1823, there were —

Presbyterian of all kinds, 20
Episcopalian, . . .15
Methodist, ... 13
Reformed Dutch, . . 12
Baptist, .... 10
Friends, .... 4
Lutheran, ... 2
Roman Catholic, . . 2
Universalists, . . .2
Carry forward, 80

Brought forward,
Unitarians,Moravians, .
New Jerusalem,
Alms House,
State Prison, '.
Mariners,
Jews, . . . .

SO

87

Five of these churches are occupied by coloured
people; the majority of whom are Methodists.
One of their congregations is styled " African
Presbyterian." There are several intelligent and

IN THE UNITED STATES. 15
pious preachers amongst these sons of Ethiopia,
and one or two of them are said to be quite elo
quent in their delivery. Over the principal en
trance of several churches in New York,, a suitable
motto, or text of Scripture, is inscribed upon the
wall. Upon one of the Methodist churches for
blacks, the text chosen is certainly quite appro
priate, viz. : Isaiah ix. 2. " The people that walked
in darkness have seen a great light ; they that dwell
in the land of the shadow of death, upon them
hath the light sinned."
The only other inscription which now recurs to
my remembrance, is upon the Antiburgher meeting
house in Nassau Street, viz. : " Earnestly contend
for the faith once delivered to the saints."
The stipend of the minister of St Paul's, who is
a bishop, is about 5000 dollars per annum. There
being no established religion in America, if a mi
nister expects to be paid well, he must preach ac
cordingly. In fact, the clergy here are too much
at the mercy of their congregations, who are often
exceedingly capricious, and not over fond of hear
ing too many home truths. — The stipend of the
Presbyterian clergy is from 1200 to 2000 dollars.
To enumerate all the public buildings in New
York would be endless. I may notice the Asylum
for Orphans, which was projected, and received
b 2

16 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
considerable assistance from a Scotish lady, the
late Mrs Graham, well known in the religious
world. This is a plain building, in a healthy si
tuation ; the space around being fancifully laid out
in shrubs and flowers. This institution has long
been under the charge of a Scotsman and his wife,
who deserve great credit for the order and cleanli
ness observed in the internal economy of the
house. These worthy people have shown a truly
parental tenderness towards the unfortunate inno
cents committed to their charge, paying them every
attention in time of sickness. Few establishments
of the kind are so well regulated, and the inmates
seemingly so happy. I have heard several of the
children, not over three or four years of age, re
peat hymns with great correctness. I observed that
the younger children generally addressed the su
perintendent and his wife, by the name of father
and mother.
There is no want of spacious and commodious
hotels in New York, some of which are upon a
very large scale. The City Hotel is an immense
establishment; and besides large ball-rooms and
public-rooms, contains about 80 apartments, some
of which are elegant. A person who has been ac
customed to private lodgings, will find himself at
first not quite at home in such a lodging, as there

IN THE UNITED STATES. 17
is very little retirement to be procured, unless an
extra price is paid. Common boarders have not
even the accommodation of a separate bed-room.
The charge for regular boarders in this and the
other large hotels, is one dollar per day, which,
considering the elegance of the entertainment, is
very moderate. A stranger may learn a good deal
concerning the manners of the inhabitants, and ob
tain information regarding the country in general,
in such a place; but it will be necessary for him to
lay aside all bashfulness or reserve, and acquire
the American habit of unlimited interrogation.
Very genteel boarding can be had in private
houses for about four dollars per week ; boarding-
houses for mechanics and work people can be ob
tained for 2£ to 3 dollars (10s. 2d. to 13s. 6d.) per
week ; and even in these, the provisions are both
good and plentiful : for instance, at breakfast, they
have coffee, bread and butter, with salt shad, or
mackerel, or salt beef. The dinner is in propor
tion : and at supper, tea or coffee is always to be
had. Spirits are always laid on the table at din
ner. Irish labourers, to whom beef was a rarity
at home, seem to enjoy themselves fully as well as
any class of men : they find themselves literally in
the land of Canaan.

b 3

18 six years' residence

CHAPTER II.
THEATRES — APPEARANCE OF LADIES, &C. — SUNDAY AMUSEMENTS
— PECULIARITIES OF FEATURES — DRESS — NOTIONS OF INDEPEN
DENCE — PAUPERS — MECHANICS — SERVANT GIRLS.
The inhabitants of New York are very fond of
theatrical amusements, there being no less than
four theatres in the city, although the population
is considerably less than that of Glasgow. Two
of these Temples of Thespis are veiy large, and
are, in general, well attended : the scenery and
decorations are quite respectable. The managers
contrive at all times to command the exertions of
some of the first rate London actors. Mr Wal-
lack was highly, popular ; and there seemed to be
a due share of admiration and applause bestowed
upon Kean and Mathews, who performed when I
was in New York to very crowded houses.
The ladies usually make an elegant display, and
apparently seem to feel quite at home in the thea
tres of New York : — indeed, the rage for dramati-
cal representations is carried to rather an extra
vagant pitch by many of the fair sex. I have
known instances, in no very exalted rank of life,
wherein the lady considered herself as being ill-
used by her husband, if not conveyed at least once
a week to the play-house.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 19
Although the appearance of the ladies, as I have
already mentioned, is rather elegant, and their
dress no less so, yet there is one custom prevalent,
which a stranger cannot help taking notice of, and
would never be tolerated in any polite theatre in
Europe : the very " gods" in Glasgow would hiss
it out of countenance. At the interval betwixt the
play and the farce, the greater part of the ladies
in the front seats of the lower boxes turn their
backs to the gentry in the pit, and sit down on the
edge of the box, in rather an ungraceful attitude ;
and as many of these fair creatures inherit, in no
small degree, the equatorial breadth of their Dutch
ancestors, this inelegant custom more readily at
tracts the notice of a stranger.
There is a custom to be remarked peculiar to
the gentlemen, but it proceeds not from inadvert
ence, but from the cause of many of their rude
nesses — independence : according to their notions
for which word, their behaviour, in many respects,
may well warrant the substitution of the word im
pertinence. The custom I allude to is, — suppose
that the front seat of a box is quite filled up by
gentlemen, at least so in appearance, (and it is dif
ficult to determine, by mere exterior, who are, and
who are not gentlemen in America, for all are gen
tlemen who go to the boxes,) and afterwards a
worthy citizen, with his wife and daughters, are

20 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
ushered into the same box, these said cavaliers
in the front will turn round and stare, and guess,
and calculate in a most offensive manner ; but as
for offering the ladies, be they old or young, a seat
in the front, they would as soon think of taking off
their hats ! Soon after my arrival in New York,
I found myself exactly so situated, along with
some ladies and gentlemen : we sat for some time
in silent astonishment at the front-seat gentlemen,
and after the play began, expected at least hats
off — but no ; they did not take them off until re
peatedly remonstrated with, and the box-keeper
appealed to. At first, I imagined this might be a
solitary case, but on looking round, saw many res
pectable people in the same predicament. Mathews
performed that night to a very crowded house.
One of the theatres is for the black people of
the city ; it is really worth one's while to go there
for a few nights for the novelty of the thing, and
to hear the king's English murdered. A black
Douglas, with a kilt, makes a most preposterous
appearance. Othello may pass, and another cha
racter or two, but it is too much for frail flesh and
blood to see an absolute negro strut in with much
dignity, bellowing forth —
" Now is de vinter of our discontent
" Made glorus summer by de son of New York."

IN THE UNITED STATES. 21
The love of amusement and diversion is not even
altogether lost sight of on Sunday; although, in ge
neral, the churches are well attended, still a good
miny of the middling and higher classes spend the
day in excursions to the country. There are
steam-boats continually plying across both the East
and Hudson rivers, from sunrise till late in the
evening : the former conveying you to New Jer
sey for 12 cents, (7d.) and the latter to Long
Island for 4 cents (2d.) There are suitable
houses of entertainment at these places ; and there
are occasionally in summer, steam-boat excursions
to greater distances. Before condemning the citi
zens of New York, however, on account of this
breach of the Sabbath, it might be asked, were such
conveyances to be had every Sunday at Glasgow,
how would the matter stand ? Would the boats
be obliged to desist plying for want of due encou
ragement from the natives of our far-famed church-
going city ? Several public gardens in New York
are filled every Sunday evening, where every ac
commodation in the way of refreshment is to be
had. The chief one is at the Battery, where there
is a delightful promenade at the edge of the bay.
The walks are pleasantly shaded with fine trees,
and the view from this place near sunset is truly
beautiful. Knickerbocker gives a fine sketch of

22 six years' residence
this spot in his history of New York. I have
heard many of the citizens insist that the view of
the bay of Naples is inferior to that of New York.
We must allow patriotism to have drawn the pic
ture in this instance. New York neither possesses
the commanding scenery, nor the princely edifices
of Naples.
The inhabitants of almost every country have a
peculiar cast of countenance ; a sort of family like
ness as it were. This can hardly be expected in
New York, where the people are descended from
such a heterogeneous mass of Dutch, French,
Germans, English, Scotish, and Irish ; from which
of these nations they have acquired one striking
peculiarity in the most prominent feature of the
face, I will not pretend to say. I have heard it re
marked- by foreigners, that the New Yorkers in
general, both male and female, do possess a length
of nose, which cannot fail to attract the attention
of the most superficial on-looker. So far as my
own experience goes, I am wonderfully mistaken
if the first twenty noses a stranger encounters in
Broadway, do not measure with any twenty-five ave
rage noses in Glasgow or Edinburgh. In spite of
this peculiarity, the inhabitants of New York may
be termed rather good-looking. The ladies are usu
ally tall and genteel in their persons, their coun-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 23
tenance inclining to the pale cast, with an almost
imperceptible tinge of sallow : their ancles are in
general not near so clumsy as many of our coun
trywomen's ; but their feet are any thing but
Chinese. They are, one and all of them, exceed
ingly gaudy and fond of dress ; and cause their
frail tenement to suffer no ordinary degree of pe
nance for gentility's sake. I have seen delicate-
looking creatures perambulating the streets while
the thermometer stood 20 degrees below freezing,
and was assured on good authority (and their ap
pearance by no means belied the assertion,) that
they had not so much as one single flannel petti
coat to protect them from the inclemency of the
weather. According to the opinion of many skil
ful physicians in New York, hundreds of lovely
creatures have fallen victims to the idol vanity.
Since thin clothing has been so prevalent, it can
not be denied that the bills of mortality annually
exhibit a most melancholy increase under the head
of consumption. Ladies who can procure the
means are most extravagantly dressed; and the
wife of a store-keeper of the second or third class,
may occasionally be seen with a shawl worth 600
dollars on her back. In America, you will seldom
see a cap on the head of any female of whatever
rank, whether married or unmarried, at least until

24 six years' residence
Time commences his ravages upon their hair. I
have even seen old beldams of threescore and ten
sitting bareheaded in the theatre. The men are
dressed much in the same style and fashion as in
Britain. Fashionable articles of clothing are nearly
double the price of the same in Britain.
There are many customs in America, arising
from that continually mistaken view of indepen
dence which exists among all ranks, quite annoy
ing to a stranger. For instance, their mode of
entering each other's dwellings, which is, giving a
few smart taps at the door, and coming in " slick"
without ceremony. This would be the less galling,
vvere a person sure of this privilege being adopted
by none but their most intimate friends ; but even
in a genteel house, sitting by your parlour fire,
you may occasionally expect to hear a thundering
at your door, and before you have time to turn
round, your parlour is entered by some unhewn
clodpoll, asking if you want any wood, or some
such article of domestic consumpt ! I was thun
derstruck at the first visit or two of this sort, and
was at a loss how to get rid of such intruders, till
effectually stopped by a checklock on the outer
door. This is certainly liberty with a vengeance.
It must, however, be allowed, that even with much
greater opportunities of committing robbery, de-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 25
predations in private houses are infinitely more
rare than at home : indeed, in the country houses
in America, there are many who do not even lock
or bolt their door at night. That rogues are not
scarce, the state prisons fully demonstrate; but
robbing and thieving is not in such an organised
state as in Britain ; neither are the people under
equal temptations to steal, . as no one need want if
they can work.
In the large towns of America, your feelings
are not harassed every moment in the streets, by
the sight of such poverty, squalidness, and ragged-
ness as are to be met with in the large manufac
turing towns of Britain. It is with the deepest
feelings of regret and sorrow, that I must be under
the necessity of confessing that I have seen, since
my return to Britain, more scenes of wretchedness
and misery in one street, and in one day, in my
own native city, than I ever witnessed in several
of the principal cities of America, through a pe
riod of several years. No doubt, America has her
own share of misery ; but there are few of her in
habitants who need want the necessaries of life, as
work of some kind is always to be obtained, either
in town or country.
If any are determined not to worjc, but wander
about as rogues and vagabonds, they are furnished
c

26 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
with a birth in the penitentiary, and are obliged to
work. Old and infirm people, and all who are
without the means, or power of assisting, or pro
viding for themselves, find a comfortable asylum in
the alms-house, where there are sometimes so
many as 2000 inmates, who are comfortably fed
and clothed, and are allowed to go out a few
hours once a week to see their friends.
It may be remarked, that an itinerant fiddler,
flute-player, or balled singer, is a rare sight in the
United States; so are all descriptions of puppet
shows, and such like entertainments as may be
seen in abundance at our fairs in Scotland. There
is no doubt but that such establishments would pay
well in America, as the citizens are extremely fond
of every kind of frolicking, as they term it.
The vast difference in regard to food and cloth
ing, consequently of personal comfort, between the
lower and working classes of people in Europe,
and those of America, has, and will be the subject
of much discussion amongst politicians, espe
cially of the former country. I merely state what
I have seen and heard, and by no means pretend
to account for causes and effects, which have so
often been matter of argument to men of talents
and information. Prejudice has certainly had its
share in the business, and until that is removed,

IN THE UNITED STATES. 27
the matter will be as much in the dark as ever.
The merits of ithe case cannot be fairly judged of,
as long as Britain has occasion to look upon Ame
rica as a rival ; nor can it be expected that the
government of Britain can feel much satisfaction
in seeing America peopled at her expense.
The mechanics of New York, such as carpenters,
for instance, go much better dressed than people
employed in such occupations in Britain, their wa
ges affording it more readily. The wages of car
penters, masons, bricklayers, and tailors, are not so
high, in comparison, to the prices paid to the same
workmen in Britain, as what is paid to labourers.
When a very great demand has been for brick
layers and carpenters, their wages have been as high
as 2J to 3 dollars per day. The wages of such
are never less than 1£ dollar per day, even in dull
times, and there is little likelihood of New York
being overstocked with such workmen for years
to come. Regarding domestic servants, or hired
girls, as they are called, good encouragement is
given. A girl who would receive £5 or sS6 per
annum in Glasgow, would readily obtain 6 dollars
per month in New York ; and Scotish girls are
preferred by many, as it is imagined they are more
obedient and docile than Americans. They, how-
2 c

28 six years' residence
ever, soon enough acquire the art of indepen
dence. It must be confessed, that the American women
are much smarter than the average of Scotch ser
vants ; fully as cleanly, and by no means so lazy
in the morning. They generally have their work
over before the evening, and do not then scruple
to take a few hours' amusement, without giving
themselves much trouble in consulting their mis
tress : indeed, such a word is not to be found in
their vocabulary. As for cleaning their masters'
boots, they would as soon put their fingers in the
fire. An acquaintance of my own, who had newly
arrived in New York, having gone forth to deliver
a letter of introduction, inquired at the girl, who
opened the door, if her master was within, which
was answered by her closing the door in his face,
exclaiming, " I have no master, Sir." The next
day, he again called, and obtained admittance, by
inquiring in a more familiar style, if Mr M. was
at home. The servant girls in New York assume
the title of " Miss;" their male visiting friends
invariably making use of this term in inquiring fon
them. It is the general custom amongst a certain
rank in life, and that by no means the lowest, to
dine at the same table with their hired girls, or
" helps," as they are occasionally styled.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 29
By way of caution to any one into whose hands
these remarks may fall, I shall relate a case of my
own, in regard to taking servants to America. My
wife having a young infant to take charge of, and
having heard much regarding the disobedience,
&c. of American servants, persuaded me to take
out a young woman who had served with us
in Glasgow. — I agreed to pay her passage out,
which cost me £12. 12s., and to pay her at the
rate of one guinea per month, from the time of her
engagement, for the space of 3 years ; and if she
married before that period, which, at her father's
request, could not take place without my consent,
she was to refund me the whole of the passage
money. . An agreement to the above effect was
drawn out in writing in Glasgow. After residing
in New York for about 18 months, I removed to
Philadelphia, taking the young woman with me,
who made no complaint, — but after residing in
that city for the space of two months, she re
quested me to let her go back to New York. —
Upon remonstrating with her upon this subject,
and reminding her of our agreement, she said she
was informed the agreement was not binding in
America. Her American acquaintances told her
that she was in a free country, and that she was a
free woman, &c. Upon insisting to know the rea-
3 c

30 six years' residence
son of her wishing to "go to New York, she confessed
a sort of attachment to a tradesman who had pro
mised to marry her if she would return. I made
some inquiry regarding this person, and was in
formed that he had a wife and children at or near
New York. This I made known to the girl, and
endeavoured to dissuade her from such a prepos
terous step, and at length told her that I would
arrest her, should she endeavour to run away — not
that she was near so clever and cleanly as the ge
nerality of American hirelings — but that I consi
dered myself as responsible to her parents. " Well,
Mr N." said she at last, " I believe you may de
tain me; but if I don't get to New York, I will
walk over the wharf the first opportunity." See
ing that independence, or love, or some irresistible
impulse swayed her mind, I no longer opposed
her wishes, but paid her in full, without deducting
a single penny for the passage money. If love
can, and does break through stone-walls, any at
tempt on my part, in this case, to obstruct its
course, would have been alike unnecessary and
unavailing. I gave her a letter to a friend in
New York, who hired her on my recommendation.
I soon found that she had actually discovered,
upon her arrival there, that her lover was really a
married man. I am thus particular upon such an

IN THE UNITED STATES. 31
incident as this, as it may serve as a beacon to
some family who may go to America. Upon
making inquiry at some friends who had been long
in America, whether I could have compelled her
to fulfil her agreement, they informed me, that
their laws would by no means enforce any agree
ment drawn out in Britain ; and farther, that in
every case, principles of freedom are the order of
the day.

32 six years' residence

CHAPTER III.
MANUFACTORIES — BUILDERS — STORE-KEEPERS — MERCHANTS AND
TRADERS — AUCTIONEERS — ERIE CANAL— MR CLINTON — STEAM
BOATS. In New York, there are many manufactories of
iron, brass and crystal. Very excellent hats are
also made, which exceed those of British manufac
ture, at least in durability. A fine hat brings 10
dollars. The cotton weavers and dyers are a con
siderable body ; and a great quantity of domestic
goods are produced, principally sattinets, of wool
len and cotton, and a kind of course gauze for
musquito nets. In 1814, there were only 2 looms
in the city, now they may reckon near 1000.
In cut glass and crystal the Americans have ex
hibited great proficiency, as several shops in Broad
way can testify. In manufacturing common crock
ery-ware, they are, however, far behind. In win
dow glass they are greatly behind the Dumbarton
or Bristol manufacturers, as any one who has ever
attempted to look through a window of American

IN THE UNITED STATES. 33
glass must allow it is very uneven, wavy, and often
of a greenish colour. The wholesale price at
which it is sold, is an infallible evidence of its in
feriority. The price of English glass for instance,
10 inches by 12, being 11 cents (6d.) per square
foot, while that of America only brings 7 cents
(4d.) nearly. I have never learned that the Ame
ricans have attempted any thing in the manufac
ture of fine cutlery. They have very extensive
manufactories of nails, which are all cut by machi
nery. The retail price of such as single or double
flooring, is from 8 to. 10 cents per lb. (4d. to 5^d.)
In hollow ware, such as pots and kettles, I cannot
say much in their favour ; such articles being, in
general, very heavy and clumsy. I have in my
possession a cast iron tea-kettle of American ma
nufacture, which is rather unique in its kind.
Were I to bury it any where near the Roman
Wall, and any one accidentally to come upon it
some years hence, I have no doubt but that it
would prove a very acceptable present to the
Hunterian Museum. It is furnished with three
short feet, and the handle (which is moveable) and
the spout are somewhat awkwardly placed ; but
after all, I fear it is rather illiberal in me to cavil
at the merits of my American tea-kettle, which I
have brought so far, while truth forces me to con-

'34 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
fess, that the water which this said utensil has been
the means of heating, produced as good tea or
coffee as ever was manufactured through the* in
strumentality of any like machine from the far-
famed banks of Carron or Clyde.
The Americans have made great progress in
the woollen manufacture. I have seen broad
cloth made in New England, of really an exqui
site fineness and finish, which brought as high as
12 dollars (54s.) per yard: in the coarser fabrics
they do a great deal, and their carpet manufacto
ries are apparently thriving.-^- A great part of this
last article is made from cotton.
The storekeepers of America, in general, are
not very remarkable for politeness to their custom
ers : they seem to think that they are rather con
ferring a favour upon the purchaser than other
wise, and exhibit their wares with great coolness,
using few blandishments to ensure sales. The
owners of grocery and such like stores, in some in
stances, support very elegant establishments. In
Broadway, it is not uncommon to observe a gro
cery, which, in general, is also a provision store,
and casting your eye on the adjoining door of a
splendid house, you may observe the shopkeeper's
name engraven in brass in a suitable style, the win
dows being adorned with satin curtains lined with

IN THE UNITED STATES. 35
silk, to the value of at least half a ton of ba
con. The New York merchants are, in general, pret
ty fair and honourable in their dealings; but owing
to the great number of adventurers from foreign
countries, and men of mere speculation, there can
not exist so much faith and confidence amongst
traders in general, as may be found in old establish
ed countries. In comparison to Britain, there are
few real sterling houses, and several occurrences
which have of late taken place in New York and
Philadelphia, have by no means a tendency to exalt
the mercantile character of the Americans. One
of these circumstances excited a very considera
ble share of public indignation and clamour ; and
five or six merchants of the first standing were im
plicated in this odious business, and brought to
public trial. It was at first imagined, and hoped
for by the middling ranks, that some of these ho
nourable gentlemen would find a birth in the state
prison ; but wealth and influence can do a great
deal in their courts of justice. The matter was
settled as quietly as possible. The case was this,
a number of individuals established a bank, and
also an insurance company or two, issued notes to
a large amount, sold out as many shares as possi
ble, converted their paper into gold and silver, and

36 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
left the holders of their paper to whistle on their
thumb. The whole transaction took place, I think,
within a twelve month, and carried much knavery
in the face of it. A circumstance took place in
Philadelphia in 1826, which created a very great
noise indeed, as government were the victims in
this case. A person (a quaker by the bye) whose
character stood high for many years as an East
India merchant, and was universally esteemed,
had, it seems, been (to use a Yankee phrase) shav
ing the government. He imported immense quan
tities of tea, which was deposited in the custom
house stores, of which an officer of the customs
kept one key, and the importer another. Some
how or other, the tea found its way to the break
fast tables of the citizens, without the ceremony of
paying duty, and before the matter was discovered,
the revenue had suffered a loss of 900,000 dollars.
Great quantities of it which had been shipped to
New York and other places, were seized by go-
verment in the hands of persons who had bought
and paid for it ; in consequence of which, many
honest and worthy merchants sustained a heavy
loss. The quaker was arrested on board one of
the packets for Liverpool, about 40 miles below
Philadelphia. How the matter was finally settled
I have not learned. Such transactions amongst

IN THE UNITED STATES. 37
what may be called the mercantile aristocracy of
America, casts a shade of doubt on many traders
of honour and integrity.
A great deal of business is carried on in New
York by auctioneers, who stand much higher than
the same description of people in Britain. One
house annually sells goods and property to the
amount of seven or eight million dollars. Much
noise and confusion occasionally prevail at the
auction rooms, and sometimes not a little trifling.
People who look upon themselves as men of con
sideration, do not hesitate to reach their hand over
their neighbour's shoulder, and pull the coat tail,
or give the hat of a third person a knock in such
a manner, as that some one else may be implicated
for the mischief. Such childishness would hardly
be tolerated by the youngest boys of a school in
Britain. It is, however, all done in good humour,
and may be looked upon merely as the ebullitions
of liberty. There is not so much distinction kept
up between merchants and their clerks here as in
Britain : this is imagined to be rather productive
of good than otherwise.
I have no hesitation in saying, that the New
York merchants and traders in general, are a race
of men with whom it is extremely pleasant to trans
act business. They are what may be called quite

38 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
off-hand gentlemen, and by no means use much
haggling in concluding their bargains.
The system of banking is carried on to great
extent in all the towns of America, and seemingly
with great advantages to the shareholders. In New
York, on discounting notes, interest is charged at
the rate of six per cent, per annum, on all bills or
notes having less than 60 days to run ; over that
date, interest is charged at the rate of seven per
cent, per annum, and no interest is allowed on cash
deposited. A person opening an account with any
bank, may lodge or draw out money fifty times in
one day, if so disposed, and for any odd number of
dollars and cents. This is very convenient for
merchants in the settlement of accounts.
A considerable deal of private discounting, or
what is generally termed shaving, is practised in
America. I have heard of such extortion in this
usurious traffic, as the shaver charging five per
cent, per month on notes which had six months to
run, thereby squeezing 30 per cent, out of the dis
tressed shavee. An old Scotsman, who resided in
Charleston, and came home to his native place
near Dundee, a few years ago, worth about
^£70,000, informed me, that he had repeatedly dis
counted bills on the above terms. The most com
mon interest, however, charged amongst the more

IN THE UNITED STATES. 39
conscientious kind of shavers, I have understood to
be about two to three per cent, per month.
The trade of New York has increased beyond
all precedent since the peace with Britain in 1815.
Formerly Philadelphia had the greatest share of
the commerce of the United States, now the case
is altered ; the duties annually collected in the sin
gle port of New York being equal to two-thirds of
the whole amount of duties collected in the United
States. One great drawback to the prosperity of
Philadelphia is the long navigation from the ocean
to the city (about 130 miles), and the river being
frozen sometimes for two or three months in win
ter. The harbour of New York has been frozen
only once since 1780, at which time the British
army crossed from New York to the opposite
shore upon the ice. I was acquainted with people
who walked over to Staten Island, a distance of
eight miles, in the winter of 1821.
The happy situation of New York guarantees
to it a preference over any harbour in America.
The command of country .possessed by the Hud
son, and more than all, the opening of the Erie
canal, must ensure to New York an increase of
trade beyond calculation. It is confidently anti
cipated, that the time will arrive, when the city will
extend over the whole island of Manhattan (a
d 2

40 six years' residence
space of 15 miles by 1^). Streets are already
marked out to the distance of six or seven miles.
The builders in New York are good mechanics,
and very expert at rearing houses with expedition.
In 1825, it was said that there were about 2,500
houses erected in the city and suburbs. They
are also very expert at removing houses out of
their position. In 1823, I saw a two story brick
house, with chimneys and all, standing, removed
back from a street, to the distance of 23 feet, and
placed nearly three feet higher than it formerly
stood. This was effected in a very ingenious man
ner, by means of the screw. While it was in the
process of removal, about 150 people remained in
it, by way of experiment, and the motion was so
imperceptible, that a tumbler full of water placed
on a mantle piece, did not run over a single drop.
The Erie canal stretches from Albany to Lake
Erie,' a distance of 363 miles, through a rich coun
try. The width of this canal is about 40 feet; but
little more than four feet in depth. The highest
part of the canal is about 660 feet above the Hud
son. Lake Erie is about 550 feet above the same
level ; consequently, the locks are mostly on one
side of the rise. This great undertaking was pro
jected, and, in a great measure, carried into effect,
by Governor Clinton, who possesses both talents

IN THE UNITED STATES. 41
and patriotism in a very eminent degree : he truly
merits the approbation and respect of his country
men. At his first suggestion of the scheme, he
encountered little but opposition and taunts, and
was even looked upon as rum-compos. He survey
ed it, however, was at great personal expense, and
persisted in his plan until the eyes of his countrymen
were opened. As an instance of the great estima
tion in which Mr Clinton was held by the refined
part of his countrymen, I may observe, that one
day while I was sitting in the office of a lawyer,
transacting some business, a bust upon the mantle-
piece attracted my attention. Upon inquiring at
the lawyer whether that was the bust of Cicero,
he answered with a sort of sneer, " No, Sir ; it is
that of a man worth ten thousand Ciceros, or all
your British heroes put together." " And pray,"
said I, quite simply, " who is it then ? for I never
heard of any very particular great man amongst
you except Washington, and I am sure that's not
him." " It is a man, Sir, that all the world
should know ;" answered he, " it is De-witt Clin
ton !" The whole expense of the undertaking has
been about 9,000,000 dollars (£2,000,000 sterling.)
The rapidly increasing revenue shows the great
benefit it will be to the country in general ; it will
also amply repay the shareholders. Before the se-
d 3

42 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
vere frost sets in, the water is drawn off, as it would-
freeze so much in winter, that a good part of the
spring would be lost in thawing it. The passage-
boats on it are very convenient, and travel night
and day at the rate of about 3£ to 4 miles an hour.
The fare, including provisions, is four cents per
mile. This mighty work was begun and finished
in the space of about six years ; it cannot, there
fore, be denied, but that the Americans are enter
prising and persevering, and withal, possess the
means of executing great undertakings.
The first vessel impelled by steam in America,
was set a-going in New York. Mr Robert Fulton,
in conjunction with Mr Livingston, also an Ameri
can, had projected the plan several years before it
was put in execution ; and it would appear, that it
was from our countryman, Henry Bell, that they
received the first hint. The Americans will not al
low this, but facts are stubborn things. Mr Ful
ton himself never pretended to be the inventor ;
but certainly he was the first who reduced steam
navigation to practice. Like many other benefac
tors of mankind, he was but ill-requited for his
pains. Something, however, was done for his
widow and children in 1807. The Clermont, of
160 tons, was built for Mr Fulton ; and in her first
voyage to Albany, she succeeded beyond expec-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 43
tation. Her first appearance is thus described by
an American : — " The Clermont, on her first voy
age, arrived at the place of her destination with
out any accident. She excited the astonishment'
of the inhabitants of the shores of the Hudson ;
many of whom had not even beard of a steam-en
gine, much less of a steam-boat. Those who saw
her passing in the night, describe her as a monster
moving on the waters, defying the winds and tide,
and breathing fire and smoke. She presented a
most terrific appearance to vessels navigating the
river at the time. The first steam-boats (as they
still do), used dry pine wood for fuel, which sends
a column of ignited vapour many feet above the
flue ; and whenever the fire is stirred, a galaxy of
sparks fly off, which in . the night make a beautiful
and brilliant appearance. This uncommon light
attracted the attention of the crews of other ves
sels. Notwithstanding the wind and tide were ad
verse to its approach, they perceived with asto
nishment, that it was rapidly approaching them ;
and when it came so near as that the noise of the
machinery and paddles was heard, the crews, in
some instances, shrunk beneath the decks from the
terrific sight, — others left the vessels and made for
the shore, — while others, again, prostrated them
selves, and besought Providence to protect them
from the approach of the horrible monster."

44 six years' residence
The Americans have now carried the building
of steam-vessels to an amazing extent. There are
upwards of 50 large steam-boats plying on the
Mississipi; and there is no town of any importance,
accessible by water, that wants them. Several
start every day from New York for Albany, New
Brunswick, New- Haven, and other ports. Some of
those which run to Albany are from 500 to 600
tons burthen. The Chancellor Livingston is 165
feet on deck, by 50 in width, and can accommodate
above 200 passengers has a separate cabin for
ladies, and is very handsomely fitted up. In 1823,
the fare was six dollars, provisions included. The
distance is 165 miles ; average time of completing
the trip, 18 hours. Since then, the fare is as low as
two dollars, exclusive of provisions. There is one
glaring defect on board the whole of the American
steam-boats, and that is the want of books and news
papers. In the Albany boats you may apply to the
bar-keeper for a book, who will charge you 1 2^ cents
(7d.) per volume. This almost looks like extortion ;
and yet the Americans are everlastingly puffing
about the merits of their steam-boat accommodation.
In the same boats, also, 7d. is charged for a glass
of wine or brandy. The day after the Erie canal
was opened, I came down from Albany in compa
ny with 250 passengers. The same vessel had

in the united states. 45
taken up 630 passengers the day previous to this,
and it was her second trip that week. This was
certainly doing business to advantage. The cur
rent expenses on board such a boat are, however,
very considerable ; the number of hands employed,
including cooks, stewards, &c. being about 30.*
* A gentleman just arrived from the United States (March,
1830), informed me the other day, that shortly before he left
New York, a steam-boat had arrived at the latter place from
Albany in the very short space of 10 hours and 37 minutes.
As the tide flows as far up as Albany, the stream cannot be
favourable to any vessel more than six hours in such a pas
sage, and of course, must be against it for the rest of the time.

4>6 six years' residence

CHAPTER IV.
PUBLIC MARKETS — BUTCHERS' PROCESSION — HOUSEKEEPING— COL
LEGES — MUSEUM — POST-OFFICE — MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENT — AS
SIZE OF BREAD, &C. — FIRE-ENGINES — STATE PRISON — EXECU
TIONS — LAWS REGARDING DEBTORS — GAMBLING AND LOTTERIES
— DRINKING, AS PRACTISED.
There are eight or ten public markets in New
York, which are generally well supplied with every
necessary and luxury of life. It has been said,
that in the course of the year, eight different kinds
of wild quadrupeds, five of amphibious creatures,
150 of birds, and a great variety of fish, may be
found in the markets of New York. Many re
spectable men may be seen in the morning making-
purchases, and carrying home their bargains in
their hand. People in the same rank in Scotland
would imagine themselves degraded by carrying a
leg of mutton, or a junk of raw beef along the
streets : custom sanctions the practice here. The
inhabitants generally seem duly to appreciate the
good things of this life. Turtle soup meets with a
steady and extensive demand. One of the principal
hotel-keepers occasionally entertains his customers

IN the united states. 47
with a bill of fare, which could not easily be pro
cured in Britain. Amongst a variety of dishes he
advertises bears, wild cats, racoons, opossums,
squirrels, herons, bald eagles, vultures, owls of
various kinds, land and sea-turtle, &c.
The butchers of New York, now and then
amuse and delight their fellow citizens, by a sort
of procession, in which they exhibit their merchan
dise, in the shape of immense over-grown oxen.
When they obtain any cattle of a remarkable size,
they dress them up with ribbons of various col
ours, and adorn their heads and horns with small
flags, bearing of course, the national stars and
stripes. Several of the most portly gentlemen of
the profession, decked out in a similar manner, and
riding in gigs, precede their four-legged victims,
accompanied with drums and fifes through the
principal streets. It reminded me of some ancient
procession of Bacchus, of whom some of the New
York butchers are no bad representation. The
state of New York has produced many extraordi
nary cattle, not unfrequently weighing 4000 lbs.
Regarding house-keeping in New York, it may
be observed, that rents are much higher than in
Glasgow ; for example, a two-story house, situated
in a convenient part of the town for business, and
containing five or six apartments, besides kitchen

48 six years' residence
and cellars, cannot be had under 250 dollars,
(£56 5s.) per annum ; and if it be in one of the
most genteel streets, the rent will be 300 or 350
dollars. In State street, some very large houses
rent as high as 1500 dollars per annum, (£337
10s.) Fuel is a very expensive article in New York.
From actual experience, I found that it cost about
140 dollars, (<sS31, 10s.) per annum, for wood, to
keep three fires going in winter, and one in sum
mer. Some people have tried Liverpool coal,
which generally sells at 10 to 12 dollars (45s. to
54s.) per ton weight. This article will be pro
cured, by and by, much cheaper from Philadelphia.
Stoves are greatly used, which save in fuel con
siderably. Articles of household furniture are tolerably
cheap ; a mahogany sideboard worth 20 guineas
in Glasgow, may be purchased new for 60 dollars,
(^13 15s.) and a chest of drawers may be had
for 20 dollars, (£& 10s.) which would cost £8 in
Glasgow. Other articles, such as chairs and ta
bles, are equally cheap.
Education for children may be had on various
terms ; but even poor people are at no loss in re
gard to this, for at least the more useful branches.
There are several free schools in New York, sup-

in the united states. 49
ported chiefly by the state, where people may
have their children educated on very low terms ;
or if they cannot at all afford it, they are taught
gratis. In 1813, the fund for the support of free
schools in the state of New York, amounted to
500,000 dollars, producing an annual revenue of
36,000 dollars. The system of education adopted
in some of these schools, is that of Joseph Lan
caster. In the southern states, education is very high.
The terms of a respectable female academy in
Charleston may be quoted, [Per Quarter.
Reading, spelling, writing, arithmetic, English
grammar, and sewing, . 12 dollars. (54s.)
Writing and arithmetic, parsing and composi
tion, geography, history, &c. . . 20 (90s.)
Fine needle work, with every description 1
of embroidery, lace, bead, shell, and > 20 (.90s.)
filagree work, . . J
Painting in oil and water colours, 20 (90s.)
Small children of either sex, 6 (27s.)

There are two colleges in New York, viz.
Columbia, formerly called king's college, and the
college of physicians and surgeons. The medical
department in the former was lately united to the
latter, so that it now contains only a faculty of
arts, having professors in Moral Philosophy, one
of Classical Literature, one of Mathematics, Natu-
E

50 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
rai Philosophy, Astronomy, Geography and
Chronology, one of Logic, Rhetoric, and Belles
Lettres, and one of Botany. It may readily be
imagined, that some of these teachers will have
quite enough to do. This college is possessed of
an extensive philosophical apparatus, also a lib
rary, museum, and anatomical theatre.
The college of Physicians has professors on the
theory and practice of Physic and Obstetrics, on
Chemistry and Materia Medica, on Anatomy,
Physiology and Surgery, on Natural History, on
the classical practice of Medicine, on the princi
ples and practice of Surgery, and on the institutes
of Medicine, and Medical Jurisprudence. In
these institutions, it.is not indispensably necessary
that the student should attend a certain course of
lectures for a certain number of years. The Pro
fessors insist upon the attainments of the student,
and not upon the number of years he has attended.
He may attend what classes he thinks proper, al
though certain qualifications must be attained to
entitle him to a diploma.
The number of medical practitioners in New
York is reckoned to be about 350. This is
thought by most people to be quite too many.
The general charge made throughout America,
both by physicians and surgeons, is one dollar per

IN THE UNITED STATES. 51
visit: in some places a little higher is charged;
and a few men of eminence in the large towns
charge still higher.
In New-England, there are several colleges upon
an extensive scale. Harvard College near Boston,
and Yale College in Connecticut, are the most ce
lebrated. The college of Hanover in New Hamp
shire has more than 20 professors ; but not gene
rally over 250 students. The college of Prince,
town, in New Jersey, is well known as a school of
divinity. It has conferred degrees on several
learned and reverend citizens of Glasgow. Phila
delphia is celebrated as an excellent medical school.
The colleges in the southern and western states
are upon a limited scale ; and the inhabitants of
these states frequently send their youth for in
struction to Europe, or the northern states. It
may be safely asserted, that the average number of
students attending all the colleges in America, does
not greatly exceed the number annually attending
the universities of Edinburgh and Glasgow.
The museum in New York is a private collection,
and contains many good specimens of natural his
tory. A very large turtle is the most remarkable ob
ject to be seen in it : it was taken off Sandy Hook,
and weighed about 1000 lbs. ; the length of it is
about eight feet. There are no manuscripts or
e 2

52 six years' residence
rare books, and the coins are hardly worth men
tioning. There are several other institutions here for pro
moting science, such as the Botanic Garden, the
Academy of Fine Arts, the Lyceum of Natural
History, &c. There are also a great number of
charitable societies, and several Bible and Mission
ary societies, a bare list of which would occupy
considerable space.
' The post-office department in New York is con
ducted under good regulations. All ship letters
arriving from foreign ports, whether single or not,
are delivered at the post-office for 6£ cents (3^d.)
each. Those forwarded to other parts of the states,
are charged 2 cents in addition to the inland post
age, by the United States mail. Single letters are
charged as follows :
Any distance not exceeding 20 miles, 6 \ cents, about 3^d.

30 ..

8 ..

... 4^d

... over 30 and less than BO ..

. 10 ..

... 5Jd

 80  150 ..

. 12J ..

... 6|d

 150  400 ..

. 18* ..

... lOd.

... over 400 ..

. 25 ..

... 13|d

Newspapers are charged each one cent for less
than 100 miles distance, and one cent and a half
for a greater.
The mail-coaches in the northern states are

IN THE UNITED STATES. 53
strongly and handsomely built, and supplied with
excellent horses. The roads in many places are
good. In the southern states^ the stages are gene
rally very clumsy machines, and the roads in many
parts being merely composed of loose sand, their
speed is consequently not great. The mail road,
from the extremity of New England to New Or
leans, extends nearly 2000 miles. As it is not the
object of the American government to derive any
revenue from the post-office department, the
charges and income are in general about equal.
As an example of the amazing increase of the
commerce of America, it may be stated, that in
1792, the number of post-offices did not exceed
200, and the revenue was about 67,000 dollars ;
in 1828, the number of post-offices was about 8000,
and the revenue nearly 1,500,000 dollars.
The municipal government of New York is
vested in a mayor, ten aldermen, and as many as
sistant aldermen. The salary of the mayor is
sometimes as good as 10,000 dollars per annum.
The judges of the Supreme Court, and the Court
of Chancery, are allowed 5000 dollars per annum
each. These courts, as well as the Court of
Session, Surrogates Office, &c. are held in the
City-Hall. The police of the city is under very
good regulations. The watchmen are paid 4s.
e 3

54 six years' residence
sterling per night, and the streets are generally or
derly and quiet. It is but seldom or never, that a
passenger is interrupted in his progress along the
streets, by a group of ruffians standing at corners,
or by the impertinent solicitation of women of a
certain description ; — and in day-light the eye of
modesty is in little danger of being offended by the
sight of such troops of bare-faced and abandoned
females infesting the streets, as may daily be wit
nessed in some places that shall: be nameless.
Many such creatures there are, no doubt, in New
York, but a particular part of the city seems to be
appropriated to their use.
The mayor and council who appoint all laws re
garding the cleaning of the streets, observance of
Sunday, rates of cartage, regulations of markets,
assize of bread, &c. have formed excellent laws for
carrying these matters into execution ; but these
regulations are daily grossly violated with impu
nity. In winter especially, many of the streets
swarm with large hogs, to the great danger and
annoyance of passengers. A pig which was
abroad one day on a foraging party, being startled
by some boys, somehow or other ran foul of a
young lady, in such a manner, that she was fairly
carried across Broadway, and lodged in the kennel.
I recollect one winter when the mud had accumu-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 55
lated to such a degree in a narrow street, that
there was no free passage, some wags placed a
small tree in the centre of a heap of mud, with a
suitable hint addressed to the public authorities
stuck upon it : this had instantly the effect of put
ting the city scavenger in mind of his duty. The
assize of bread, and the inspection of beef and
flour are well attended to. For the information
of gentlemen in the baking line, I may state, that
by law, a barrel of flour weighing 196 lbs. nett,
is estimated to produce 4032 ounces, or 252 lbs.
of bread. A profit of 4£ dollars is allowed to the
baker on each barrel, so that adding this sum to
the price of the flour, and dividing by 12^, will
show the number of loaves each barrel ought to
produce at 121 cents (6|d.) 4032 Divided by
this last number, will show the weight of each
loaf. For example :
One barrel flour at 6 dollars.
Baker's profit, 4£ —

10^ or

Drs. Cts.
121) 10' 25'(82 )4032 ozs.

Each loaf, 48^- ozs.
The inspectors have power to enter bake-houses

56 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
at all hours, to see that no unsuitable ingredients
are put into the bread.
In New York, there are a great number of fire-
engines kept up, which are worked by the citizens,
who have associated themselves into companies.
When a fire takes place, the church bells are rung
vigorously and incessantly, to distinguish the sig
nal from that of calling to church on Sundays,
when they are tolled slow as at funerals in
Scotland. The firemen turn out very readily on
the least alarm, and 20 or 30 engines are soon
collected on the scene of danger. These machines
are in general small, and adorned with a profusion
of gingerbread work. The gentlemen who turn out,
although each engine is undercharge of a captain,
observe very little order or subordination. You may
see 20 or 30 citizens about one engine, pulling and
hauling the pipes in every direction, and swearing
at one another with very little ceremony, — every
one wishing to be master, and few willing to obey.
There is little doubt, but that two Glasgow en
gines, with the proper firemen, could do more
execution in half an hour, than 20 New York en
gines in the way the matter is conducted. When
La" Fayette paid a visit to New York in 1824, the
firemen gave a complete display of their know
ledge of hydrostatics, for the general's amuse-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 57
ment, by collecting 45 engines in the park before
the City-Hall, and squirting water into the air for
the space of half an hour : no doubt this was
great entertainment to the good old marquess ; the
steam frigate, however, in operation, would have
been quite a magnificent fete !
Were the penal laws of Great Britain as severe
in the execution, as in the letter, it might be truly
said, they were written in blood, — more than 200
different crimes incurring sentence of death. The
Americans have framed the most of their laws and
institutions after the manner of their ancestors,
and, in some cases, with considerable improve
ments. There are, however, but few crimes in
America punished with death, — the law blending
mercy with justice in a very eminent degree, hav
ing the reformation of the criminal as much an ob
ject to be desired as the mere satisfying of the law.
Many an unfortunate wretch, whose life alone
could atone for his offence in Britain, would, un
der the American criminal laws, have had the op
portunity of acquiring habits of industry and ho
nesty, and returned to society, with proper notions
«of that equity which man owes to his fellow. The
American state prisons are established on wise
and good principles ; and, in many instances, have
been actually profitable to the state in which they

58 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
are erected, — condemnation to the state prison for
life being a more formidable punishment to many
a desperado, than the gallows itself; the very idea
of being cooped up from their companions, and
compelled to observe industrious and regular ha
bits, operating upon their uncontrollable passions,
as a continual succession of penalties. The state
prison of New York is a large building, enclosed
by high walls, capable of containing 500 convicts.:
it is sometimes full of inmates. No criminals are
sentenced to this prison for less than three years.
Upon admission, they are required to clean them
selves, and are accommodated with a new dress of
striped cotton, if in summer ; and of woollen, if
in winter. A particular dress is put upon those
who have been more than once committed. They
are immediately set to work at some trade, and in
case they have been brought up to none, are in
structed in some one of the branches which are
carried on in the prison, viz. shoemaking, weaving,
brush-making, coopers, turners, blacksmiths, tai
lors, painters, carpenters, carding, spinning, and
whip-making. They commence work at six o'clock
in summer, and at day-light in winter, and con
tinue until six in the evening. They are locked
up in separate rooms, which accommodate eight
men each, at nine o'clock in summer, and eight in

IN THE UNITED STATES. 59
winter. The prison is kept comfortably warm in
cold weather ; and should any prisoner fall sick,
the utmost attention and kindness is paid by phy
sicians who daily visit the prison, and a young
surgeon constantly resides in the house. The ut
most decency and order is observed in the prison,
a keeper and 16 assistants being constantly on the
look out.
The prisoners receive cocoa and molasses for~]
breakfast, and soup made of shins of beef, &c.
for dinner, with plenty of potatoes, arid once a
week a dinner of pork; their supper consists of
Indian meal porridge and molasses ; many of the
workmen who are remarked for industry and
sobriety, are occasionally indulged with a pint of
beer. Every inducement is held out to encourage
them in good conduct, and their sentence is cur
tailed a fourth part, provided they have behaved
well, and have earned 15 dollars per annum. An
account is opened with each prisoner, who re
ceives credit for his earnings, and at the end of
his confinement he receives 20 per cent of what
sum may be at his credit, deducting his expenses ;
* the balance goes towards the support of the in
stitution. In certain cases, the prisoner's family
are allowed to receive his earnings while in prison.
It is no uncommon thing for a prisoner to leave

60 six years' residence
this place with 150 dollars in his pocket to begin
the world with : they generally emigrate to some
part of the country where they are unknown, and
many of them have turned out good members of
society, after having gone through the ordeal of
the state prison. A chaplain attends to the esta
blishment, and such of the prisoners as are igno
rant, receive instruction in reading. A specimen
of the convictions, for one year, may be given,
viz. 173 Americans, 15 Irish, 13 English, 1 Scot,
1 Frenchman, 1 German, 3 Nova Scotians,
3 West Indians, 1 Portuguese, 1 Swede, and
1 Dutchman.** Crimes, the commission of which subject the perpetra
tors to confinement in the state prison, are as follows :
Imprisonment for life. — Eape, robbery, burglary, sodomy ;
breaking into a dwelling, and stealing, some person therein
being put in fear; forging the proof of a deed, or the certifi
cate of its being recorded ; forging public securities, counter
feiting gold or silver coin ; a second offence of committing
arson in an uninhabited house, barn, or mill ; forging a
record, deed, will, bond, bill, receipt, warrant, or order, and
all offences above the degree of petit larceny, not otherwise
provided for.
For life, or some shorter period in the discretion of the
court. — Forging any charter, will, note, bond, or deed.
For life, or some shorter period not less than seven years. —
Selling or exchanging a counterfeit note, engraving any plate
for making such notes, or having such notes in possession
with intent of passing, or plates for forging such notes.
Not exceeding fourteen years. — Stealing a record, &e.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 61
The execution of a criminal is a rare occurrence
in America; in April, 1824, a man was executed
in New York, for a very atrocious murder.
There were about 50,000 people present on the
occasion, a great part of whom consisted of well-
arson of an uninhabited house, mill, &c. ; counterfeiting any
deed or will, (not affecting real estate,) bond, bill, or note,
unless negotiable; forging any warrant or order not being a
bill of exchange, endorsement or assignment thereof, and
every offence for petit larceny not otherwise provided for ;
for forcibly marrying a woman against her will, poisoning,
where death does not ensue within a year and day, a second
assault with intent to rob, murder, or commit a rape, acknow
ledging a fine, bail, &c. in the name of another.
Not exceeding ten years. — Aiding a prisoner to escape from
the state prison, or any other prison, convicted of felony, per
jury, or subornation of perjury, false swearing under the
insolvent act, under the absent or absconding debtors' act,
lottery managers swearing false, the like in surveyors under
the land-officer, before a commissioner in chancery or supreme
court. Not exceeding seven years. — Having in possession counter
feit gold or silver, with intent to pass the same, assault with
intent to rob, murder, or commit a rape, serving process under
foreign authority.
Not' exceeding five years. — A second conviction, of buying
or resetting stolen goods, or obtaining money by false preten
ces, or accessary after the fact to any felony not otherwise
provided for.
Not exceeding three years. Petit larceny, buying or re
ceiving stolen goods, obtaining money by false pretences; all
cases of conviction for larceny, shall be deemed petit larceny,'
unless the goods so stolen shall exceed 25 dollars in value.
E

62. SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
dressed females. The sheriff and his depute
performed the office of hangmen, upon this
occasion, with great eclat; they, positively,
seemed to enjoy the fulfilment of this part of their
duty, although they might easily have procured a
substitute. The female part of the community
seemed to have forgotten their usual good feelings
on this occasion. An acquaintance of my own, a
Scotish lady, who was that day visiting a friend,
was much struck by the entrance of a young
belle, who instantly accosted the lady of the house,
with " La ! Mrs C  , why were you not out at
the hanging to-day, I guess you've lost a fine
sight, — Mr Wendover seems a very clever man !"
She then put the question to my friend, who ex
pressed herself in terms of astonishment, that any
female of^respectability would be present at such
an exhibition. The young lady seemed of course
not a little nettled, but exclaimed, " Oh, my —
my," (the usual oath, ejaculation, or whatever it
may be termed, of many an American female,)
" why, I assure you, Ma'am, there were thou
sands of respectable ladies present, and of the
first rank too, I guess." It is certain, there were
a vast number of coaches present, filled with
ladies. Far be it from me to surmise that dove-
eyed pity for suffering humanity, resides not in

IN THE UNITED STATES. 63
the bosoms of the fair daughters of Columbia; but,
every thing of the nature of parade or show,
carries a charm along with it, which it would
appear the damsels of New York have not the
fortitude to resist.
Each State has its own peculiar laws regarding
bankrupts; in New York, for instance, persons
confined in prison for any debt not exceeding
25 dollars, exclusive of costs, upon applying to
any judge or justice Of the city, and making oath,
that his real or personal estate does not in value
exceed 25 dollars, over and above the articles
exempted by law, from seizure in execution, is
entitled to be set at liberty ; his person cannot
again be attached for the same debt, but his pro
perty may. Persons charged in execution, for
debts to a greater amount thah 25 dollars, after
remaining three months in prison, must, in order to
obtain their liberty, present a petition to the court
from whence the process issued, upon which they
were imprisoned, setting forth the cause of impri
sonment, and accompanying this with a true state
of their affairs, and an account of all their pro
perty, which they must give up, upon oath, for
the benefit of their creditors, with the exception
of their necessary wearing apparelj bedding, and
working tools, not exceeding 50 dollars in value.
f 2

64 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
If there is no objection made to the fairness of this
statement, the debtor is instantly discharged, and
the property only which he may afterwards
acquire, is attachable for the debt.
In New York, creditors are not obliged to make
any allowance to a debtor in prison ; and as the
laws of the State allow nothing, the prisoners, if
very poor, might starve ; but the Humane Society
supplies such as are in actual want, with victuals
and fire. In Charleston, South Carolina, and
some other places, the creditor must allow his
debtor an aliment, which is usually about Is. 6d.
sterling per day.
America has been, by many Europeans, deno
minated an asylum for the rogues of other coun
tries ; but this assertion has perhaps been made
without due consideration. In one respect, it is
the very worst place in which a sharper may exer
cise his abilities, as (no disparagement to America
in general, I hope), he will be apt to meet with
numbers as acute as himself; and the fact is, that
in America, strangers are but too often looked
upon with suspicion and distrust. This feeling
has arisen from mutual illiberality : genuine can
dour, and a due measure of forbearance on both
sides, will alone remove it. It has been often al
leged, that the Americans are greatly in the habit

IN THE UNITED STATES. 65
of getting into debt, squandering their property,
and cheating their creditors : this, of course, in
a country almost wholly mercantile, is sometimes
the case ; but rash speculation is more frequently
the cause of bankruptcy in America, than the be-
fore.-mentioned causes. A man may deprive his
lawful creditors of their due, by assigning over his
property to another person, whom he denominates
his creditor ; but this cannot be done without cer
tain forms, — and no case of actual fraud can take
place, without perjury on some side or other, —
and if this can be established, the offender is lia
ble to the punishment of the state prison. Im
prisonment for debt is now, in some States, altoge
ther abolished ; no person, it is said, being under
the necessity of crediting another, unless he
chooses. This may operate to limit trade, but it
is questioned whether commerce ever reaped much
benefit by the imprisonment of debtors. In the
state of Pennsylvania, no female can be imprisoned
for debt.
The Americans have been accused of gambling :
this may have been asserted with some degree of
plausibility. There are severe penalties enacted
against it, although it is practised in a quiet way in
many places to a considerable extent. A citizen of
Charleston informed me, that he was one nio-ht
f 3

66 six years' residence
taken by a friend to a certain place in that city,
who repeated some cabalistical words to the door
keeper, when they were ushered into a large room,
where there were at least 200 persons closely en
gaged at play ; and to his utter astonishment some
of them were most respectable merchants. He re
ceived a warning to keep his tongue quiet on
what he saw there.
It cannot be denied, but that the system of lot
teries is carried on to great extent; perhaps the
legislature has wisely allowed of this, so far to in
dulge the gambling propensities of the citizens.
Churches, and other buildings have been reared on
this foundation. There is, however, occasionally
much roguery committed in this line, by the lot
tery contractors, who of course dispose of their
tickets as quick as possible, protract the day of
drawing to the latest, and become bankrupt before
a prize is drawn ; or in the event that a prize does
come up before such a circumstance occurs, it is
generally managed that the lottery managers are
the owners thereof.
The Americans have been taxed with intemper
ance in drinking. The quantity of spirituous
liquors consumed is much more than what is done
by an equal number of people in Britain. In sum
mer, the excessive heat causes a very copious per-

in the united states. 67
spiration, which must be counteracted by some
means or other. The incautious use of simple cold
water having often produced very fatal effects; — it
must therefore be mixed with some spirit to pre
vent these effects. Ale and beer, although consumed
in great quantities, are said to create bile in hot
weather. The faculty during the prevalence of
the yellow fever in New York in 1822, actually
recommended brandy and water as the safest be
verage for their fellow-citizens ; and Heaven knows,
they stood in little need of the hint. The constant
use of grog has rendered the Americans in a great
measure less liable to suffer from the effects of
strong liquors than might be expected, — they are
in a certain degree seasoned, and consequently it
is by no means common to see an American very
much intoxicated. Boys acquire the habit of
drinking much earlier than they usually do in
Europe ; this arises partly from the aforesaid ne
cessary causes, and partly from the free use of
tobacco, especially smoking which is a great pro
voker of thirst. It is no uncommon thing to see a
boy of 12 or 14 (but dressed like a grown-up man)
with a segar in his mouth, walking "right" into a
tavern in the forenoon, and taking a glass of brandy
and bitters with great deliberation. As breakfast
is over early in summer, it is the general practice

68 six years' residence
to take some refreshment about noon. It would
conduce little to the credit of a man of business in
Scotland, to exhibit the effluvia of spirits before
dinner ; but in America it is taken no notice of, the
practice being pretty general, but not absolutely
universal. -There are many who take nothing but
water from one year's end till the other. On the
other hand, I have known a very worthy merchant
(originally from Scotland by the bye,) who lived
many years in New York, and being on a visit to
one of the southern States, was asked what kind of
water they had in New York ? He paused for a
moment, and then candidly replied, " Really, upon
my soul, I cannot pretend to decide, as I never to
ray recollection tasted water in New York un
mixed." I have been informed that about thirty
years ago, it was the general custom to have spirits
and water in every counting room or store ; — if
such was the case, the custom is now nearly out.
The Americans seem to have little idea of so
ciality in their drinking. When a person goes into
a tavern with a friend or two, instead of -having a
snug place where they may settle a little business,
or have a " crack," over their liquor, they must
walk up to the bar, and swallow their glass with
all possible despatch, to make room for new
comers. The usual price for a glass of spirits is

IN THE UNITED STATES. 69
6^ cents, (3^). The consumer pours a lesser or
greater quantity of the liquor into a tumbler at his
option. It is seldom drank undiluted with water ;
and in hot weather the tavern keepers always
have a piece of ice floating in the water pitcher.
I have seen a book of travels in America, by a
Scotish gentleman, who roundly states that "spirits
and water is the usual drink of both sexes, in
America, in summer." Now this is rather a misre
presentation of the matter. I have spent about
six years in various States of America, and can
not bring to my recollection a solitary instance
of having seen a female of any station drinking
grog. I have seen one or two who got credit for
occasionally sacrificing to Bacchus, but they did
so unseen by the public. Females in America
usually quench their thirst by cyder, small beer,
wine and water, and perhaps now and then a small
glass of cordial, of which there are many varie
ties, under the title of " Perfect Love," " Life of
Man," &c. but much more generally by pure wa
ter. It is certainly rather ungenerous to accuse
the fair sex in America of grog-drinking.
Strong liquors of every description are very
cheap in America:
Brandy is from 1| dollar (5s. 8d.) to 2 dollars (9s.) per gallon.
Holland gin, ditto ditto.
Jamaica rum, 1 dollar (4s. 6d.) to 1 \ dollar (5s. 8d.) ditto.

TO SIX years' residence
New England rum, 1 33 cents (Is. 6d.) to 50 cents (2s. 3d.)
Ditto whisky, J per ditto.
Madeira wine from 12 to 18 dollars per dozen.
Claret  3 to 15 
The American rum and whisky is distilled from
rye, Indian corn, or sometimes apples : it is
strong, but generally harsh in the flavour. It is
much used by labourers ; and from the very low
price at which it can be obtained, it may be infer
red, that an ordinary man may get a skinful 1 for
sixpence. Upon an occasion of a family removing from one
part of the city (New York) to another, I saw an
instance of what, in some countries, might be call
ed great sobriety, or self-denial. The lady of
the house invited one of the draymen, a robust,
healthy-looking Vermontese, to help himself to
some spirits : the man, making a low bow, replied,
" No : I thank you, madam ; I never drink in the
forenoon." It is more than problematical, if a
Glasgow carter would have acted in a similar man
ner, upon & flitting occasion.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 71

CHAPTER V.
LEARNING OF CLERGYMEN, &C — ENCOURAGEMENT FOR CLERKS, &C
NEW YORK LAWYERS AND PHYSICIANS — AUTHORS— PRINTING —
NEWSPAPERS — IDEAS OF AMERICANS REGARDING BRITAIN — WEL
LINGTON COMPARED TO JACKSON, &C.
Learning is cultivated in America, just in pro
portion as it conduces to the amusement or profit
of its pursuers, and not for the sake of its confer
ring a power and dignity on its possessor, enno
bling and elevating him above the common herd
who dwell in contented ignorance. The great
body of the Americans are brought up in the pur
suit of gain ; and a knowledge of plain English,
writing and accounts, is all that is acquired, or
sought after by ninety-nine out of an hundred, even
in the higher walks of life. A thorough know
ledge of dollars and cents is deemed sufficient for
every purpose of common life; and Hebrew,
Greek, and Latin, are left to be cultivated by those
few who propose to gain a livelihood by some
learned profession ; — and even for such, a very pro
found acquaintance with those languages is hardly

72 SIX years' residence
deemed indispensable. There are many clergy
men who neither know the one nor the other.
Some years ago I happened to be in company with
a minister, who was very popular in a large city in
the south. It was one evening after he had
preached. In the course of conversation, a person
took occasion to compliment the reverend gentle
man on the pleasure he must derive from reading
the scriptures in the original. The clergyman
seemed a little embarrassed, but ingenuously re
plied, that he was totally ignorant of both Hebrew
and Greek. This exhibited the reverend gentle
man's character in a very amiable light, but ex
posed, in a no less obvious view, the nakedness
of the land. There are, however, some very
learned men in America, who would shine in any
country. A worthy clergyman of the Episco
pal church, once expressed himself to me thus :
" There is little encouragement for learning in
America ; we have no high reward or emolument
held out to us as you have in Britain ; had we any
good fat bish.opricks of an hundred thousand dol
lars, held out as the reward of talents and appli
cation, you would see many a bright luminary
blazing in the atmosphere of America."
A clergyman in New York, who belonged to the
Secession Church, informed me, that when he ar-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 73
rived in America, he had not exactly determined
upon what line of life he meant to pursue. Being
a good Hebrew scholar, shortly after his arrival,
he was offered the professorship of Hebrew in
the college of Princetown, New Jersey, with a sa
lary of 1200 dollars per annum, and free lodgings.
His inclination, however, induced him to accept
of a call from the congregation of Seceders in New
York, with a stipend of a thousand dollars, which
was afterwards raised to twelve hundred and fifty.
As another instance that any kind of learn
ing properly applied, can be turned to good ac
count in America, I may mention the case of a
young Irishman, who, in his native country, was
under-clerk to a flour miller. He arrived in
Charleston, and went about two hundred miles up
the country, where he commenced teaching, — and
in the course of a year or so, his income was as
good as six hundred dollars per annum : his ac
quirements may be guessed at.
America presents but a barren field for young
men who go out as clerks. The country is over
stocked with them ; and there is no concealing the
matter, that the generality of young Americans are
much better initiated in the ways of business than
Europeans of like age, and are commonly excel
lent penmen and accountants. Young men from

?4 six years' residence
Scotland are occasionally preferred to natives, on
account of their supposed more orderly habits:
but this cannot be greatly counted upon.
There are some very clever and experienced
lawyers in New York, Philadelphia, and some
other large cities, with whom men may safely trust
their property, but these are " few, and far be
tween :" the first named cities are positively over
run with attorneys, councillors, barristers, &c. &c.
these titles being indiscriminately adopted by men
who know as much of Coke upon Littleton, as
they do of Homer. A number of them consist of
ruined traders, who have procured a few law
books, and are willing to learn a few of the most
common-place law phrases and customs annexed
to the profession. There are but too many of
them ready at all times to go through any job,
however mean or dirty, for the recompense of a
ten dollar bill. There cannot be less than seven
hundred of this tribe in New York alone. Mr
Emmett, well known as a leading personage in the
Irish rebellion, stands high in New York as a
lawyer and a gentleman.
Regarding the physicians of New York, some
of them have been long known in Europe as men
of deep knowledge in their profession ; as men who
have cultivated the sciences from a pure love of

IN THE UNITED STATES. 75
knowledge, and as a mean of enabling them to be of
benefit to their fellow creatures. There are seve--
ral whose practice averages from twenty to thirty
thousand dollars per annum. There are, however,
a great many who meet with, and indeed merit,
but slender encouragement. I have been informed
by an American physician, that, during the war
with Britain, when there was a great demand for
surgeons, a number of young men, who had not
studied above six months, were admitted to prac
tice : their qualifications, therefore, could not be
great. The ignorance of some doctors, on sub
jects known to people of any education at all in
Britain, is surprising. I have heard a New York
physician of considerable practice, display his
knowledge of geography, by talking of " Turkey
in China."
It is well known, that America has produced but
few authors, in proportion to the encouragement
that writers of acuteness and intelligence would
meet with. The fact is, that, like Mrs M'Clarty,
they " canna be fash'd," so long as they receive all
the learning and knowledge of Europe, " cut and
dry." That writers of merit meet with due en
couragement, is clearly shown, by the success of
Mr Irving and Mr Cooper's works ; and it is a
fact well known, that Noah Webster received
a 2

76 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
forty thousand dollars (£9000) for the copyright of
his spelling-book, which sells at lOd. The last
named gentleman has been for many years past
engaged in compiling an English pronouncing dic
tionary, which, it is said, will contain an explana
tion of nearly double the amount of words that are
to be found in Mr Walker's. How would the
shade of Johnson growl, on beholding a Yankee
correcting and re-modelling the language of Old
England f
European works of merit appear in America
like magic. They are very expert at this kind of
science, as it brings in the dollars readily. Seve
ral British magazines are reprinted here every
month. Amongst the rest, Blackwood's has met
with considerable patronage : it is printed on ex
cellent paper, and the typography is not inferior
to the original. The price is 75 cents (3s. 4|d.)
Sir Walter Scott's works are much read, and some
of his tales have been issued from the press within
forty-eight hours after their arrival from Britain.
Lord Byron too, and all the popular British writers,
meet with a due share of admirers. The name of
Chalmers is nearly as familiar in the mouths of in
telligent Americans, as amongst the inhabitants of
Glasgow. Printing is executed very cheaply in
America. Scott's novels, although the paper is

IN THE UNITED STATES. 77
somewhat coarse, generally sell at 62 to 75 cents
(2s. lOd. to 3s. 4^d.) per volume. This economi
cal system of printing is of great benefit to the
community in general, by enabling them to acquire
knowledge at a low rate. From the immense num
ber of newspapers printed in America, the very
poorest are supplied with the means of informa
tion, there being no tax on paper, nor duty on
newspapers. The price is only If d. sterling each.
A well conducted paper, however, pays well, as
advertisements (upon which there is no duty) are
charged high. The very smallest charge in the
large cities being 62^ cents (2s. lOd.) for the first
insertion, and 25 cents (13id.)for each subsequent
insertion of a few lines. There are no Sunday
newspapers published. I have, however, observed
the printers very busy at work on Sabbath even
ing, preparing, and throwing off the papers for
Monday morning. In taking the enormous duty
off salt, the British government acted with great
wisdom and humanity ; but to retain the duty on
newspapers, is virtually putting a tax on know
ledge. Every American, almost, can, and does
read the papers : and the better sort peruse all
new magazines and works of fiction with eager
ness; but as to what may be called deep reading,
it is almost out of the question, except by a few
g 3

78 six years' residence
who have much leisure. The translations of Ho
mer, Virgil, Horace, &c. are not much sought
after ; and the bulk of the American people trou
ble themselves but little in acquiring even a sketch
of history, mathematics, chemistry, or even geo
graphy. They are generally a little acquainted
with the history of their own revolution, but look
back little farther : and yet, with all this, they think
themselves the only, if not the most enlightened
people on the face of the earth. Nothing will
content them, but everlastingly comparing them
selves to ancient Greece and Rome, in their most
enlightened days : nay, this is nothing ; they
merely look upon these once celebrated Republics,
as types or emblems of the grandeur, magnifi
cence, and learning, which is shortly to overspread
their Western Republic ; and many of them can
never separate the conclusion, but that Britain
must sink in the scale of nations, both as to know
ledge and power, in the same ratio that America
is to arise in splendour and dominion. But these
petty enthusiasts (and there are not a few of them)
forget the land from whence they have derived al
most every thing that is great and noble amongst
them — the country, their descent from which has
tended in no ordinary degree to elevate their cha
racter amongst the nations of Europe.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 79
I have met with few, very few, Americans, in
deed, who felt at all insulted at being mistaken for
Englishmen, or of British descent. It is only the
most ignorant and senseless amongst the Ameri
cans, who indulge in expressions of malice and ha
tred towards Britain ; or, in not a few cases, men
who were forced to seek refuge in America, from
evils which they had brought upon their own heads
at home, by disaffection to their native govern
ment. It may be observed, with all due reverence
for our brethren of the " Green Island," that few
of her sons in America have much to say in favour
of Britain. America was truly an asylum to many
unfortunate, and not a few worthy personages,
who were concerned in what were called the
" Times" in 1798. Although a more kindly feeU
ing towards Britain seems to be gaining ground
of late, yet I must say, that I have more than once
felt exceedingly awkward, by hearing topics
brought forth, regarding politics, in the very
house of God, which I could not but consider as
very ill-timed, to say the least of it. I heard a
minister in Charleston, some years ago, bring for
ward, in the middle of his sermon, a long story
regarding a letter which was sent by the British
to General Washington, but which he would not
receive until properly addressed. I forget how he

80 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
brought this to bear upon his text; at any rate,
he repeatedly used the expression of " that blood
thirsty tyrant George the Third." I am much mis
taken if my pulse was not accelerated twenty-five
degrees at least, on hearing " Good old George''
(who was alive then) belaboured at such a rate, on
account of transactions which occurred fifty years
ago. It is to be hoped, however, that time may
obliterate these disagreeable matters, and that a
more brotherly feeling will obtain betwixt the na
tives of Britain and America,
The toast of the " Mother and the daughter
against the world," thereby meaning Great Britain
and America, has been given of late at public
dinners in the United States, with great applause.
The fact is, that the Americans do not forget the
parental tenderness with which Britain cherished
infant America ; neither are they willing to forget
the haughty, and perhaps relentless manner, in
which they were treated by Britain's monarch,
when endeavouring to set up for themselves as free
men. They are sensible that they owe much to
Britain ; but any thing like concession towards
that country, is considered as encroaching on a
tender point, namely, independence.
Britain has got a great burthen off her hands,
and she has no reason to be ashamed of her off-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 81
spring. Such a turbulent child is better trading
on her own bottom; and she has shown that she
can take special good care of herself in a squabble.
What power in Europe, excepting Britain, dare
attack America ? And, to confess the honest truth,
there was but little profit accruing to Britain in the
late concern; besides, such a war is most impoli
tic, ruinous, and unnatural in both countries. I
have heard candid and moderate Americans give
it as their opinion, that the resources of Britain
and America in conjunction, might bid defiance to
the world in arms : and yet there are others who
will admit of nothing favourable to Britain, and
will not allow that she did any thing wonderful in
her struggle with the continental powers for so
many years. They will hardly ever admit that the
British gained the battle of Waterloo; but ascribe
that victory entirely to the Prussians. As for
comparing Wellington to General Jackson, they
turn up their nose at the very idea of it. Wel
lington and Bonaparte were mere ninnies to the
glorious hero of New Orleans, according to their
creed.

82 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE

CHAPTER VI.
BROOKLYN — NAVY YARD — PUNISHMENT OF SOLDIERS — LARGE SHIPS
— STEAM FRIGATE  IDEAS REGARDING FLEETS, &C  PATERSON
MANUFACTORIES AND FALLS — MAJOR ANDRE.
Opposite the city of New York, across the East
River, stands the pleasant and thriving town of
Brooklyn. This place, which, at the end of the
last century, was only a small village, now con
tains 12,000 inhabitants. Team boats are conti
nually plying betwixt the two places, generally
crossing in six or eight minutes. These boats are
impelled by horses, which are harnessed to beams
fixed across a circular walk, built on the top of
two boats joined together, with an open space in
the middle for the paddles to work in. The hor
ses continually endeavour to press forward without
stirring out of the spot; but the floor or walk on
which they stand, turns round in a horizontal di
rection, by the pressure of their feet : this gives an
impulse to machinery which turns the paddles.
These boats steer either end foremost, and car-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 83
riages or horses are driven off or on the deck
from a platform that can be raised or lowered at
the landing-place, according as the tide is high or
low. The navy yard is situated about a mile from
Brooklyn ; several fine ships have been built in it,
and the great steam-frigate which was built with
the intention of annihilating the British navy, is
laid up here. On my first visit to this place, in
company with a New York friend, I had an op
portunity of seeing an exemplification of their dis
cipline in a small instance. My friend and I went
in at the gate, where a sentinel was stationed, and
had proceeded a few hundred yards on our way,
when we heard some one calling after us; upon
turning round, we perceived a soldier with a bay
onet in his hand in full chase. He said, we must
come before the commandant. I was, of course,
a little disconcerted ; and said to my friend,
" Now, this is the first time in my life I have been
taken prisoner; I hope they wont shoot us for
spies." Upon approaching the commandant (Ma
jor S.), with whom my friend was well acquainted,
he said that a regulation had lately been made to
prevent strangers from entering the yard. He
then despatched a sergeant for the sentinel who
guarded the entrance, and asked him why he had

84 six years' residence
suffered these gentlemen to pass. The man said
he thought we had belonged to the yard, as our
coat sleeve button was turned up. This excuse,
however, would not satisfy the major ; who said,
" Put that fellow instantly in double irons." We
attempted to plead for the man, but the major
said, " Oh never mind him ; we shan't keep him
locked up over three or four days." I saw a num
ber of men in the yard wheeling barrows. They
had a chain fastened to one leg, at the end of
which a cannon ball was attached. I understood
this to be a punishment instead of flogging. On
leaving the Navy Yard, I observed to my friend,
that the major was a furious looking citizen. " Oh
yes ;" answered he, " Major S — is a very smart
fellow : why, he got one of his whiskers shot off
last year in a duel." I went on board' the Ohio,
a 74 gun ship, which was shortly before launched.
She would certainly be a most formidable oppo
nent to a 74 of any other nation, as she mounts
no less than 104 heavy guns. Her extreme length
is 217 feet, and she is very strongly put together,
the ribs being quite close to each other, and the
planking excessively thick. The officers on board
were very polite, and seemed quite proud of dis
playing the formidable qualities of their ship.
One of them asked my opinion of her; observing,

IN THE UNITED STATES. 85
that surely no ball could pierce her. I replied,
that I was no judge of these matters; but that I
had heard of such things as a cannon ball going
through both sides of a British ship of the line.
There was a frigate on the stocks at this time, to
carry 64 guns, rated a 44. The reason of this in
consistency it may not be easy to determine. The
Americans build their men-of-war completely un
der cover; a wooden building being erected over
them. At Philadelphia, there is at present a ship
building, which is to mount 150 guns, but it would
be much wiser in the American government
to build as many frigates as possible. In the
meantime, experience may show them, that their
best policy will consist in capturing merchant ves
sels, not in fighting pitched battles. The steam-
frigate which lies here, possesses formidable qua
lities, both of defence and offence ; at least the
Americans hold it so. She is a double vessel, hav
ing the paddles in the centre : the sides are five
feet thick of solid timber, and she is furnished with
thirty 32 pounders, — and it was intended to have
four 100 pounder Columbiads suspended at her
bows, which were calculated to throw balls of that
weight into the enemy's ships, ten or twelve feet be
low water mark ! but the principal means of annoy
ing the enemy, was to consist in overwhelming their
H

86 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
men and ammunition with immense quantities of
boiling hot water, — a vast quantity also of long
boarding pikes were to be thrust out on each side,
at every stroke of the engine.* The very idea of
scalding poor Johnny Bull to death, is perfectly
ludicrous: old Hannibal's plan of the serpents,
would be quite as business like. It cannot be de
nied, but that the Americans, during the late war
with Britain, performed wonders with their little
fleet : but what opposition did they encounter from
Britain? Literally none. Any vessels sent out
on that station were not half manned. The Ad
miralty seemed to think they had to deal with
boys ; but generally found the American ships
crowded with picked men — many of them British
subjects, who, it might naturally be expected,
would fight in mere desperation. The Americans
were so successful in capturing merchant vessels,
and a few men of war, that they actually consi
dered themselves masters of the ocean ; nor will
they yet allow that a British ship of equal size is
any match for an American. The loss of their
frigate, the Chesapeake, they attribute entirely to
# This vessel was unfortunately blown up by accident in
June 1829, when upwards of 20 people were killed, and a
considerable number wounded.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 87
the badness of their gunpowder ! and they avow
that their ship, the President, surrendered only to
a British fleet. I happened once to be in company
with the captain of an American merchantman, a
jolly candid tar, who was sailing master on board
the President at the time of her capture by the
British. In the chase, they threw some of their
guns overboard, and then staved all the water
butts, the contents of which they pumped out : fi
nally, they staved fifty casks of Madeira wine ;
which order was put in execution much against
the grain of their stomach, as he confessed. The
discipline on board American men-of-war is ex
ceedingly rigorous. It is well known that the men
are in general good sailors, and by no means cow
ardly. They are much more likely, therefore, to
become rivals to Britain, in the event of a war,
than any other nation ; but a long time must elapse,
before America can build or support a fleet any
thing like that of Britain; and bow they are to
raise men enough to man a fleet of any respecta
ble size, is problematical. Comparatively few of
the states have an opportunity of training up sea
men. You will hardly find a native of the South
ern Atlantic States take to the sea ; and it cannot
be expected that men will leave the banks of the
Mississippi, or Ohio, to learn the art of seamanship.
H 2

88 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
The American navy at present (1829) consists
of 12 ships of the line, 17 frigates, 16 sloops, 7
schooners, and a number of gun-boats. The num
ber of seamen and marines is about 6,500. A
ship of 180 guns, mostly 90 pounders, is now
talked of at Philadelphia. This may serve to cut
a dash, and indulge the vain feelings of the Ame
ricans, but now that such wonderful advancement
has been made, in the application of steam to na
vigation, may not a complete new system of naval
warfare be adopted in case of hostilities, and the
huge and formidable ships of war of the old school,
be totally unfit for effectually operating in the new
system ?
The town of Paterson, in New Jersey, about
twenty miles from New York, has been much talked
of for manufactures ; but this is only comparative
ly speaking. No doubt, the manufactures carried
on there are extensive, considering that cotton-
spinning is merely in its infancy in America. The
whole of the spindles in all the manufactories at
Paterson, are not equal to half the number of
spindles in one single mill at Manchester; but if
the increase continues at the same rate it has done
for twenty years past, Paterson may become a rival
even to the former place. Various qualities of
coarse goods can be made much cheaper in Ame-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 89
rica than they can be imported from Britain, — the
duties on low priced goods amounting, in fact, to
a prohibition. By the new Tariff, the duty on
raw cotton yarn, of whatever No., cost, or quality,
is about lid. per lb. It is only in the coarser
kind of goods that the Americans have succeeded ;
and the climate seems to be a bar in the way of at
tempting to make any thing fine, such as book mus
lin. Several kinds of Sea-Island shirting are made
in New England; which, owing to the quality of the
yarn, almost feel like silk. Some very handsome
prints are also made in that quarter.
The town of Paterson lies rather low, and near
ly surrounded by hills ; the consequence of which
is, that in the fall of the year, the inhabitants are
very subject to intermittent fevers; seldom, how
ever, attended with fatal effects. The falls on the
river Passaic, above the town, are a great natural
curiosity. The river, which is about thirty or forty
yards wide, tumbles in one fall over a rock about
seventy feet into a ravine; on each side of which, the
rocks rise nearly perpendicular, sloping gradually
to a considerable distance below the fall. On the
left bank, close to the ravine, there are several
fissures in the rock about two or three feet across,
and of a great depth. A few years ago, a most la
mentable occurrence took place here : A clergy-
h 3

90 six years' residence
man of New York being on a visit of pleasure to
these falls, in company with his wife (to whom he
had been married only three weeks previously)
and some friends; the lady, it would appear,
had most unfortunately slipt into one of these fis
sures, and was killed. A considerable time elapsed
before her body could be recovered ; and all the
sympathy which the bereaved husband experienced
from a cold hearted and unfeeling world, consisted
in his being indirectly accused of having assisted
his unfortunate rib to a better world.
About twenty-five miles from New York, near
Tappan, the traveller is generally shown the spot(the
very tree, if I recollect right) where the gallant and
accomplished Major Andre was executed about fifty
years ago. This unfortunate gentleman's case ex
cited the most tender sympathies, even of those
who were under the stern necessity of condemn
ing him. The court-martial held upon him lasted
for an unusual length of time. General Washing
ton shed tears on signing the death warrant for his
execution. The unfortunate man met his fate
with composure ; but earnestly begged to die the
death of a gentleman. This, according to the
rules of military etiquette, could not be granted,
as he was convicted of being a spy, and hung ac
cordingly. The major had negotiated with the

IN THE UNITED STATES. 91
American General Arnold, for the delivery of
West Point (an important fortress on the Hudson)
into the hands of the British, and was on his re
turn to head quarters when captured. The me
mory of this Arnold, who was termed the trai
tor, has ever been held in execration. It was not
many miles from New York where Andre was ar
rested. His captors were three raw militia men,
who had been straggling about. The gentlemanly
appearance of the major (although in disguise) at
tracted their attention ; and as he could not give
a satisfactory account of himself to these fellows,
they insisted on detaining him. His arguments
were of no avail ; and he then tried what effect
gold would have upon these, at that period, poor,
starving ragged Republicans, offering them a va
luable watch and a heavy purse of gold. Although
the temptation was strong, these poor militia men
scorned to accept of a bribe, and nobly preferred
the good of their country to their own private be
nefit. They were afterwards rewarded with the
approbation of their countrymen, and were speed
ily promoted. The despatches which convicted
poor Andre were found in his boots. Had the
major, at the time these men came up to him, had
the least idea of the hard fate which awaited him,
he could easily have despatched at least two of

92 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
them with his pistols ere they could have touched
him ; but he was a man alike remarkable for hu
manity and bravery. Two American officers of
rank accompanied him, arm in arm, to the scaf
fold.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 93

CHAPTER VII.

NORTH RIVER SCENERY — NEWBURG — WEST POINT — ALBANY — CAPI
TAL, &C  TROY — COHOES — BENNINGTON — ROAD THROUGH VER
MONT — CONNECTICUT RIVER — PRICE OF FARMS, CATTLE, &C. —
CONDITION OF SETTLERS — MAPLE SUGAR — STORE-KEEPERS —
FARM-SERVANTS, — FELLING OF TREES, &C. — FENCES — CLIMATE —
RAFTING TIMBER — FARM-HOUSES — WILD HONEY — CATAMOUNT —
BEARS, &C  EDUCATION  CLERGYMEN.

In the fall of 1823, accompanied by part of my
family, I made an excursion to the state of Ver
mont, for the purpose of visiting some Stirlingshire
relatives who had settled in that quarter several
years ago. The land part of the journey, a dis
tance of about 200 miles, was very fatiguing;, but
we were amply repaid by having an opportunity
of observing the actual state of the emigrants in
a part of the country bordering upon Canada.
After leaving New York in the steam boat, the
view, on both sides the river Hudson, is really
beautiful, in many places sublime- A few miles
above New York, the left bank of the river rises
abruptly from the water's edge, in some places to

94 six years' residence
the height of five hundred feet, the face of this pre
cipice, presenting in various places, huge basaltic
pillars, not unlike the Giants Causeway on the north
coast of Ireland, but not so regular ; at one place
they are called the " Pallisades." The river is about
one mile and a half broad at New York, twenty
miles above which it expands into a bay called
Tappan sea, about five miles broad and nearly
twenty in length. The scenery here is very fine, es
pecially on the west side ; the ground, rising gently
from the shore, is well cleared and cultivated, and
being studded with villages and farm houses, pre
sents a pleasing picture of civilization and plenty.
The view farther up is bounded on the west by
the Katskill mountains, which are lofty and grand,
the highest points of them being nearly 4000 feet
above the sea level; even these are clothed with
lofty trees. This forms a striking feature in
American scenery, in comparison to the bleak and
naked hills of Scotland. On the top of one of the
highest of these hills, a house of entertainment has
lately been built ; and in the summer season, it is
no uncommon thing to have a grand ball in this
remote situation, where seventy or eighty of the
New York belles and beaux have an opportunity
of displaying their fashionable attainments in the
mystery of dancing, at a season when the heat of

IN THE UNITED STATES. 95
the climate debars them from enjoying.their favour
ite amusement in the city. The situation of this
house, called Pine Orchard, is most romantic,
being twelve miles from the river side, and several
miles from any human habitation. It was no easy
matter to make a road up this hill, to such a
height. The view from the top is very extensive.
One side of the mountain is very steep, and several
water-falls tumble from rock to rock, nearly the
whole height of the mountain. Several species of
wild beasts are to be found here. The bear, and the
catamount (a species of panther, or tiger,) are no
strangers to this quarter ; and the eagle and other
birds of prey have their habitation in this wild re
gion. On the left bauk of the river, about sixty miles
above New York, the handsome and thriving
town of Newburg is situated. It contains about
5,000 inhabitants, and is mostly built of brick in an
elegant style. It is famed for brewing of ale.
About twelve miles nearer to New York, is West
Point, which was considered a very important
fortress during the revolutionary war. There is
now a military academy here, on an extensive scale.
It requires considerable interest to get boys admit
ted here ; they receive a suitable education, and are
strictly disciplined ; many of them who have been

96 six years' residence
brought up in this place have proved no disgrace
to their profession. They are obliged to rise very
early, clean their own rooms, arms, accoutrements,
&c. They are allowed about 18 dollars per month,
for clothing, books, and other articles. Near this
place, the left bank of the river rises abruptly to
the height of 940 feet, and the water is so deep
here, that steam boats pass within thirty feet of the
shore. The whole scenery is certainly imposing.
On the west bank of the Hudson, you pass " Glas
gow," a small place, containing about a dozen
houses, and there is sometimes a sloop or two to
be seen at the landing place. Nearer Albany you
pass Poughkeepsie, a handsome town, the resort
of many strangers in summer ; and further on,
Hudson, and several smaller towns. Albany looks
very handsome, as you approach it ; it is situated
on a declivity of the left bank, and appears not un
like my native town in miniature. The streets are
kept neat and clean, and it is adorned with several
elegant churches. The capitol is a substantial
looking building, situated at the highest part of
the town. The view from the cupola is delightful ;
the magnificent Hudson may be traced for at least
thirty miles. In this building there is an exten
sive library. I saw some very old books here. The
population of Albany has increased much of late ;

IN THE UNITED STATES. 97
it is now about 18,000. The principal manufac
ture is ale, which is sent all over the States, and is
greatly admired : in dry goods, an immense busi
ness is done. The cities of Troy, and Lansing-
burg, are situated about seven miles farther up the
river ; they are both handsome and clean looking
places. About ten miles from Albany, the
" Cohoes," a fall of water on the river Mohawk, (a
branch of the Hudson,) is well worth visiting.
The river is at this place nearly 1000 feet in
breadth, and the height of the fall is about forty
feet. From a bridge, which crosses the river,
about a mile below the falls, the view is enchant
ing. These falls would be much more taken no
tice of, were it not from the circumstance of their
being in the same state as the falls of Niagara,
which eclipse every thing of this description, and
attract the chief attention of travellers.
About thirty miles north of Albany, the towns
of Saratoga, and Ballstown, are situated a few miles
from each other, in rather a barren country, but
on account of their famous mineral waters, are
much resorted to in summer, there are occasionally
1200 to 1400 strangers at the former place, at one
time. It "seems to be the Bath of America. Many
people who are in perfect health, resort here,
merely for good company and coolness, as the
i

98 six years' residence
country around is any thing but enticing. Sarato
ga, it will be remembered, is the place where the
British general Burgoyne was under the disagree
able necessity of surrendering with his army to
the Republicans, in 1777.
Forty miles north east from Albany, you arrive
through a rough, but pretty well cultivated coun
try, at Bennington, a handsome little town, where
a part of general Burgoyne's army was defeated in
1777, and 700 prisoners taken. After this you
begin to ascend what are called the green moun
tains. The road here winds up these hills for about
five miles, and the male part of the passengers
• are generally requested to come out of the stage,
and walk this distance, the road being very rough
and steep. The highest part of the road is nearly
3000 feet above the level of the sea, and the view
from this spot is inexpressibly grand, especially to
the north and south-^many towns and villages, and
cleared spots, appearing like specks amidst an
ocean of forests. Even in what are termed well-
cleared districts of America, the prominent feature
is trees. About thirty six miles from Bennington,
you arrive at Brattleborough, a clean, lively town.
Proceeding northwards along the banks of the
Connecticut river about one hundred miles, you
pass through the beautiful towns of Walpole,

IN THE UNITED STATES. 99
Windsor, Hanover, where there is a flourishing
college, and Haverhill, all handsome and thriving
places, which have arisen within a short period in
the midst of a wilderness. Where formerly the
woodman's axe was unheard, and the red sons of
the forest held undisputed sway, now cultivated
fields and populous towns usurp the site of the In
dian hunting grounds ; and the growling of wild
beasts, or the war-whoop and yell of the savage, has
given place to the solemn peals of the organ, and
the sweet sounds of thanksgiving and peace.
True it is, that the native " lords of the soil," one
and all of them, have been, either by fair or foul
means, driven back farther and farther, and forced
to seek a home in the wilderness ; and as settle
ments are extended by the white men, so must the
Indians progressively move on to the west, until
they are stopped by the waters of the great Pacific
Ocean. To do the American government justice,
they have done much to civilize and instruct this
unfortunate race in the arts of peace, and encour
aged them to form settlements, and build regular
houses. It seems however to be against the nature
of the Indians, to be tied down to the habits and
usages of civilized life, and it is doubtful if much
can be done in this way. One thing is certain, that
they are daily decreasing in numbers, and it may
I 2

100 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
be a rare thing to find one true aboriginal of
America, in the course of two centuries. The
white men, beyond all controversy, have in a great
measure usurped their dominions ; any lands that
were fairly purchased, and paid for to the Indians,
being quite a bagatelle ; rum and roguery have had
a competent share, in any bargain with these sim
ple souls. Yet the Americans vindicate their
conduct with some degree of plausibility. "Provi
dence," say they, " never meant that such an ex
tensive country, rich in all the productions of
nature, should be appropriated merely as the
hunting ground of a few naked savages ; if they will
not cultivate the gifts which nature has so freely
bestowed on the country, let us not look idly on."
Perhaps, " much may be said on both sides."
The banks of the Connecticut present many
scenes of rich cultivation, and some of the low
grounds near Brattleborough, (about 150 miles
above the junction of the river with the ocean,)
are valued at a very high rate. I saw several
fields which could not be purchased for less than
120 to 140 dollars, £21 to ^31 10s. per acre, an
immense price in this country. Not more than a
hundred miles farther up this river, uncleared land
may be had at from five to ten dollars per acre. To
give a better idea of farms in this quarter, I may state

IN THE UNITED STATES. 101
that about ten miles from Haverhill, (a handsome
town, containing two churches, a bank, post-office,
&c, and about 1200 inhabitants,) I was offered a
farm on the Vermont side of the river, containing
about one hundred and sixty acres, seventy where
of were completely cleared, free of stumps and every
impediment. It was bounded by the river, which
was navigable for boats and rafts at the proper
seasons, and extended from thence more than half
a mile towards the higher grounds, sloping gently.
The soil was adapted for wheat, oats, Indian corn,
potatoes, and clover, crops of which were then grow
ing. There were on the premises a two-story frame
dwelling house, with nine windows in front ; two
large barns, and a small log house, all of which could
be put in good condition for a trifle. The land
which was uncleared, was covered with large tim
ber, chiefly pine, hemlock, sugar maple, and oak;
the ground in many places was covered with rich
natural clover, which at that season (September,)
was about eighteen inches in height. The public
road passed through the grounds, which were chiefly
fenced with rails : a pretty large stream of clear
water, with a considerable descent, entered at the
upper end of the land, and after watering several
fields, emptied itself into the river. The whole of
this property could have been got for (^270,)
i 3

102 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
twelve hundred dollars ; the taxes would amount to
about six dollars (27s.) annually. Ready money is
a great temptation to many of the inhabitants who
are accustomed to clear land ; as they merely move
to a piece of wild land, and commence clearing anew.
There are instances of some who have removed in
this manner, five or six times, during a life time.
A farm in this State can be stocked at a very low
rate for cash ; a good working horse costs from 40
to 50 dollars, (£9, to ,s£ll 5s.) good milch cows
are from 12 to 16 dollars, (£2 14s. to £3 12s.)
An immense number of cattle are reared chiefly
for the Boston market. I saw a great number of
people from Scotland in this place, who all seemed
delighted with their situation. I asked a good
lady from Stirlingshire how she liked America the
first year or two ; she answered, that she felt
" unco wae" the first winter or so ; but she would
not now exchange her situation for her old farm
in Scotland on any account. " Ye see," continued
she, " the grun' is a' our ain ; and we have every
thing we can think on. It wad be a lang time
before we could mak' sugar out o' our ain trees at
the Glins."
Indeed, to say the truth, the farmers generally
live as well as gentlemen farmers can do in Scot
land, never sitting down to breakfast without tea

IN THE UNITED STATES. 103
or coffee, and a profusion of substantial articles.
They have every convenience of life almost on
their own grounds ; such as beef, mutton, pork,
fowls, &c. Every farmer, almost, makes sufficient
sugar for his own use; and I saw one person ori
ginally from Paisley, who makes upwards of twen
ty cwt. annually for sale. The process of sugar
making is very simple. A hole is bored in the
tree (maple) a few feet from the ground, by an
inch, or 1^ inch auger, into which a little spout of
wood or bark is introduced, and a bucket placed
beneath to receive the juice. This is boiled down
until of the requisite consistence. The sugar thus
made, is little inferior to West India ; it is a little
coarser, perhaps, and has a stronger smell (by no
means disagreeable, however.) It is somewhat
like New Orleans sugar, and answers extremely
well for coffee. It takes about thirty lbs. of maple
juice to produce a pound of sugar ; about six lbs.
of the West Indian cane juice gives the hke re
sult. The farmers here make a good deal of butter
and cheese ; and after the frost sets in, they kill
their hogs, which being cleaned and exposed to
the air until they are hard frozen, are then gene
rally taken to Boston, and disposed of, and arti
cles of iron, salt, clothing, &c. brought back.

104 six years' residence
These journeys are made in sledges, which run
along the surface of the snow with great speed.
The farmers can always, if they choose, dispose of
their produce to the country stores ; but in that
case,, there is but little cash to be got. The chief
business is done in the country by barter. The
farmer generally runs a yearly account with some
store-keeper, who supplies him with any article he
may stand in need of, and takes grain and other
produce in exchange. Store goods taken in this
way by the farmers, are generally charged high.
Where store-keepers have the command of a
tolerably good capital, they succeed very well.
They must, however, have it in their power to lay
in a large stock. Even in small country villages,
you may see stores with a stock of goods worth
15,000 to 20,000 dollars.
I have heard individuals in this, as well as in
other parts of America, exclaim in a peevish and
indignant tone, " This is a poor country ; there is
no money in it; there is hardly a dollar to be seen
once in half a year." This was partly true ; but
in a young country like this, where so much is
done in the way of barter, the poverty or riches
of the people can hardly be estimated from the
comparative scarcity of silver, or bank notes.
Suppose that a farmer is in want of a few pounds

IN THE UNITED STATES. 105
of tea or coffee for his family, or of a coat to his
back, he puts a quantity of grain or other produce
of his farm into his waggon,, and sets out for the
nearest village, where he readily finds a store
keeper, who takes his produce at a certain fixed
price. What difference, let it be asked, can it
possibly make to this farmer, whether the store
keeper hands him a few pieces of paper, or coin
age, across the counter, which he may return to
him in a few minutes afterwards for the commo
dity he is in want of; or he at once places the
same before his face, without the ceremony of
placing the circulating medium in his hands,
merely for the purpose of receiving it back before
the farmer leaves the store ? It may, perhaps, be
answered, that the farmer feels himself more inde
pendent with the money in his pocket, and might
'make a more advantageous bargain by purchasing
for cash at another store ; but here it must be ob
served, that as he receives a considerably higher
price for his produce on the principle of barter,
and as trade surely ought, in most cases, to be
conducted on principles of reciprocal good will, he
will find, in the long run, his advantage in dealing
with the storekeeper who takes his produce off his
hands. But it may still farther be objected, " is
the farmer to remain without even a few dollars of

106 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
pocket money?" By no means ; for all the pocket
money that he may require, an accommodation can
readily be made with the store-keeper, by dispos
ing of some small part of his produce for cash.
Let any man cast his eyes upon an American far
mer's table, or upon his dress, and talk of the po
verty and misery of the country : such remarks
would be as unfelt by the contented and comforta
bly situated farmer, as they would be ridiculous
and absurd in the estimation of every candid ob
server. It would seem, however, as if nature had
so moulded the dispositions of some men, that even
whilst enjoying all the necessaries and comforts of
life, their senses of sight and hearing should be
gratified with the glittering and the tinkling of
dollars and doubloons.
A good farm servant in Vermont, receives from
100 to 120 dollars (£22 10s. to £27) per annum ;
generally the one half payable in grain. He is
well treated, and fares as well as his employer.
The most laborious work in the country is the
clearing of land. The native Americans are excel
lent hands at the axe ; and it is amazing to see with
what dexterity a stranger soon learns to cut down
timber. A good wood-cutter will bring down a
tree of three feet diameter in a couple of hours.
1 was totally unacquainted with handling such

IN THE UNITED STATES. 107
a tool as the axe ; but for experiment sake, have
tried my hand at it for an hour or two. I cut
down a hemlock tree which is considered a very
stubborn wood, of twenty inches diameter, in ex
actly three quarters of an hour ; and I was assured,
that in winter during frost, the half of the labour
would have been sufficient, as every stroke of the
axe would bring off much larger chip3 in frosty
weather. The largest timber grows on the
best land. The trees, when felled, are cut into
lengths of about twenty feet, and piled up to the
height of ten or twelve feet, and set fire to as soon
as they will burn readily. The ashes form excellent
manure ; and even the very first year of clearing,
the land produces excellent crops of wheat, &c.
It must be confessed, however, that such fields
have a most outlandish appearance, being com
pletely studded with black stumps of three or four
feet in height. After a few years, these roots are
easily drawn out by means of a chain and a pair
of oxen. These stumps being laid on their edge
with the stem of the tree innermost, present a for
midable barrier to sheep or cattle.
The fences in these States are made sometimes
of stone, with which some of the fields are but too
well supplied. They are covered on the top with
turf, and are very substantial. The cost of put-

108 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
ting up these fences or dikes, is generally J dol
lar per rod of 16| feet in length, for a fence five
feet high. The most common kind of fence
throughout all the States is the fence made of rails
placed alternately on the top of each other, in a
zigzag direction, and braced at the angles by a
rail at each side, placed in a slanting direction ;
these, crossing each other at the top, are again
firmly bound by a heavy rail on the top of all.
This fence is the most simple of any, and requires
neither nail nor pin, and it can be removed in a
very short time to any distance.
One great drawback to the beauty of American
scenery is, the total absence of hedge-rows. The
wooden fences have always a naked and dry ap
pearance. Near New York, several attempts have
lately been made to introduce thorn hedges on the
English plan.
In America, saw-mills are generally to be found
wherever there is a fall of water, as they serve
both to clear the land, and are a source of profit
to the proprietor. The price of pine boards per
thousand feet in Vermont, is from three to ten
dollars (13s. 6d. to 45s.) The latter price is only
charged for very clean and sound boards.
Regarding the climate, it may be remarked, that
the Northern States are extremely cold in winter,

IN THE UNITED STATES. 109
and no less warm in summer, but very healthy,
being quite exempted from the agues and fevers
so prevalent in the middle and southern States.
From November or December until May, the
ground is usually covered with snow, which facili
tates travelling, and this season is enjoyed more
than any, by the farmers, who visit each other, and
amuse themselves by sleigh riding. It is at this
season that timber is generally cut down ; and al
though while exposed to the blast, a person feels
the cold very keenly, it is comparatively mild in the
woods, people going about their work with their
coats off, and many of them without any covering
to their neck, without inconvenience.
At a certain spot on the Connecticut river,
where a number of people were engaged in rafting
timber, I had an opportunity of seeing some very
large trees. These were drawn by oxen to the
edge of the bank of the river, at this place forming
a very steep declivity of about 150 feet deep. Se
veral large trees were placed upon this slope to
make a sort of way for the others to roll down upon,
which they did with tremendous force, and launch
ed into the river, which was here above twenty
feet deep, with great violence. Some of these
trees which I measured were four feet in diameter
at the thick end, and about three feet at the other,
K

110 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE'
and from seventy to seventy-five feet long. One
of these immense pieces of timber snapt through
the middle while tumbling down the bank. It en
countered another tree which was displaced, and,
opposed it endways. It was thus rendered of lit
tle use, being intended for a mast. The proprie
tor informed me that he received about nine dol
lars (40s. 6d.) for these largest pieces on the spot:
this was about fths of a penny sterling, per cubic
foot. The weight of such a piece of wood is about
thirteen tons. They were hauled down upon the
snow by oxen in winter, from a hill about a quarter
of a mile distant, and were intended to be conveyed
to New Haven, about three hundred miles down
the river.
I knew a worthy old clergyman from Scotland,
in Vermont, who has been a resident of that place
for nearly forty years. His stipend has never ex
ceeded two hundred and fifty dollars per annum,
and yet he believed that he was as well satisfied
with that, as those who had four times the amount
in large cities. He possessed about three hundred
acres of land, a comfortable house, &c.
There are a considerable number of Scotish
people settled in these parts (Caledonia County,
Vermont), who retain much of their original man
ners. In general, they seem much happier than

IN THE UNITED STATES. 1 1 I
they ever were at home. Many of them have as
sured me, that exertions which would barely have
procured them food and clothing in Scotland, in
the course of a few years' industry and persever
ance, have rendered them independent proprietors
of good farms containing 100 to 200. acres, with a
stock of cattle, &c. amply sufficient for all their
demands. The houses in this place are generally built of
wood, either frame or log. The former are con
structed of boards, nailed on a sort of skeleton or
frame of timbers, and lathed and plastered inside,
or lined with smooth boards. The logs with which
farm houses are built, are squared, and the seams
filled up with some kind of cement. As these
logs are about twelve inches square, they form a
very solid and durable wall. The chimneys are
of brick, and the fire place in the kitchen is usu
ally seven or eight feet wide ; in these, large fires
are kept up in winter; you may often see more
than half a load of wood at once upon a fire.
There is generally an oven at one side for baking
bread and pies, which the women manufacture in
great perfection.
There is a great deal of wild honey found here
in trees which have become decayed and hollow.
So much as seventy or eighty lbs. have been got
k 2

112 srx years' residence
in one trunk, but in the cutting of it down, there
is often a good deal of it spoiled. I bought a
small keg of excellent honey at 10 cents (5-Jd.) per
lb. A considerable quantity of sheep are raised here.
The farmers give to cattle, and also to sheep, a re
gular supply of salt ; it is considered to be effica
cious in preventing various diseases to which these
animals are subject. All that is necessary to be
done, is to lay a handful of salt here and there
upon a flat stone ; the animals lick it up with great
avidity. There is occasionally considerable da
mage done to sheep by the catamount, a large spe
cies of wild cat, or panther, as it is sometimes
termed in America. They are capable of ascend
ing trees with great facility, and are considered
dangerous to the huntsman if wounded only : some
of them have been shot measuring about six feet
exclusive of the tail, and 140 lbs. in weight. Bears
seldom make their appearance ; when such is the
case, the whole of the country people turn out,
and divide themselves into companies. By enclo
sing a large tract of ground, and approaching each
other gradually, they make sure of their prey.
Sometimes three days and nights will elapse before
the hunt is over ; during which time, the hunters
encamp out all night, and such meetings are the

IN THE UNITED STATES. 113
occasion of much mirth and amusement amongst
the younger part of the community. Bears are
very hard to kill, and sometimes receive as many
as fifteen or sixteen balls in their body before they
fall. When wounded, they are very fierce, al
though I knew an instance of a man who beat off
an old bear, attended by two cubs, with no other
weapon than the branch of a tree. To talk, of
wild beasts being a great detriment to settlers in
America, is quite absurd.
As this part of the country is within seventy
miles of Canada, I made inquiry whether there
was much smuggling carried on, but was informed
that the roads near the lines are so strictly watched
both by British and American custom-house offi
cers, that little was done in this business. A per
son, however, who was well acquainted with the
country, informed me, that by striking into the
woods, he could easily secure a horse load of
goods at any time, but that nothing extensive could
be done. The new American tariff will operate as
a great temptation to smuggle, — the duty on some
kinds of Glasgow coarse muslins being equal to
150 per cent, or more on the first cost.
Regarding education in general, in the northern
States, it may be remarked that there are few peo
ple who cannot read and write. Newspapers are
K 3

114 SIX years' residence
to be had in every small town of America, and
even in villages which do not contain twenty
houses. The inhabitants, therefore, through cu
riosity to know what is going on in the world, ac
quire a habit of reading and discussing politics.
Their learning extends little farther, unless
amongst those who are intended for the learned
professions. No farmer here would ever think of
sending his son to learn Greek or Latin, unless he
expected to make him a minister, and that is a bu
siness that does not pay well here.
Upon our return to Albany about the beginning
of October, the city was in a great bustle, an im
mense concourse of people being assembled from
all parts to witness the opening of the Erie canal.
The civil and military processions were certainly
very grand ; and several corps of the latter were
fine looking men, arrayed in handsome uniforms;
but I have seldom observed in America what we
call a military appearance amongst the soldiery :
they in general seem to have a wonderful propen
sity to incline their heads forward, and their shoul
ders have a peculiarly awkward appearance.
The canal was opened into the Hudson with
great ceremony. Several fine speeches were deli
vered ; and a bottle of water from the Pacific
Ocean thrown into the river. Sometime after this,

IN THE UNITED STATES. 115
the other end of the canal was opened into Lake
Erie ; and as the Americans are always fond of a
little " frolicking," as they call it, they found am
ple scope for their faculties on this occasion. Can
nons were placed along the whole course of the
canal, and down the river Hudson, as far as Sandy
Hook, at small distances ; a signal being given at
the instant of opening the canal, the cannons
were fired as quickly as the report was conveyed
from one to the other ; and as soon as this sort
of telegraphic intelligence reached New York, the
signal was repeated back to Lake Erie. The dis
tance to and from Lake Erie was above eleven
hundred miles, and the whole operation was per
formed in little more than three hours, which is
about one-half the velocity with which sound tra
vels.

116 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE

CHAPTER VIII.
NEW YORK — CLIMATE — YELLOW FEVER — SERMONS ON DO  OPI
NIONS OF FACULTY REGARDING FEVER — COMPARATIVE SALUBRITY
OF AMERICAN CLIMATE.
Although the climate of New York cannot be
altogether deemed unhealthy, it has at different
periods been visited by that dreadful scourge of
mankind, the yellow fever ; a disease about which
there has been much discussion amongst all ranks.
New York was visited with this pestilence in 1822.
It was generally allowed to have been imported
from the West Indies; but there were many expe
rienced men who averred that it was a natural pro
duction of the climate. One party asserted, that
it broke out in consequence of too many dead
bodies having been crowded into one church-yard,
which corrupted the atmosphere to such a degree,
that many experiments were tried to confirm this
opinion. A piece of fresh raw beef was hung up in
this burying-ground, about three feet from the sur
face, and it was said to have become putrid in half
an hour.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 117
As the fever broke out in a very populous part
of the city, the faculty were, at first, rather afraid
of being too premature in announcing the yellow
fever ; the very mention of this disease causing
more alarm and consternation amonst the citizens,
than can be well imagined by people living in
climes where the melancholy effects of this malady
are unknown. At last, a Dr N  , more bold
than his brethren, let out the dreadful secret, and
in spite of much contradiction his opinion was
confirmed but too soon. This intelligence operated
like a thunderbolt on the citizens. Almost every
person in a district, containing 40,000 to 50,000
inhabitants, fled forthwith in some direction or
other. The chief resort was to a part of the
suburbs called Greenwich, where hundreds of
wooden houses were reared up in a twinkling, and
even Sunday put no stop to the sound of the ham
mer or the saw, to the great discomposure of some
of the New York clergy. One minister, in his
sermons, told the people plump down, that this
pestilence was the effects of Divine vengeance upon
them, on account of their horrible wickednesses ;
in the catalogue of which he enumerated, sabbath-
breaking, profanity, cheating and lying, and last,
though not least, was their crime of running
to the playhouse in the midst of their calamities,

118 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
to attend to the quips and quirks of a celebrat
ed buffoon, who had just then arrived at New
York. This personage was neither more nor
less than our worthy countryman Matthews.
The reverend gentleman made use of words,
regarding their trading sins, to this effect. —
" Oh ! that the walls of our custom house could
speak, that they might announce the weight and
amount of deliberate perjury and wickedness, which
are hourly committed within their precincts." Now
the merchants of New York consider themselves
as the most honourable set of men on the face of
the globe, and felt extremely indignant at such
language. I have heard more than one of them
say, that the parson ought to have been stoned, — at
all events, pumped. I have no idea that the
New York merchants are a whit more fastidious
in regard to custom-house oaths than their neigh
bours, but they assuredly did not deserve more
than the clergyman alleged against them. The
faculty of New York were quite divided in their
opinions regarding this fever ; one party, most strenu
ously asserting that it was contagious ; another,
that it was not so ; and a third, that it was contagi
ous, only, in an infected atmosphere ; that is, that
a person labouring under the disease, and removed
out of what they called the infected district, to a

IN THE UNITED STATES. ] 19
healthy situation, would not communicate the dis
ease to others. This seems to have been the great
bone of contention amongst the doctors, and they
ended their controversy just about where they be
gan it, quite bigotted in their several opinions.
One thing is certain, that people who were so rash
as to go into the prohibited districts, in several
instances, caught the infection and died, without
having been near any sick person. One or two
young men, who went out of mere curiosity (and
a very foolish curiosity it was) to look through the
fences put up at the limits of the infected district,
became sick, and died within a few days after
wards. There was also the case of one who had
gone into the deserted part of the city, for the lau-
.dable purpose of plundering the houses of the ab
sent citizens, and who was making a snug business
of it. He fell sick about five miles from town;
and having made some sort of confession before
his death, many articles of plate, and other valua
bles, were found in his trunks. His was a most
decided case of genuine yellow fever. During
this most distressing period, many houses were
robbed ; and, in some instances, where the scoun
drels were disappointed of money, they vented
their spleen on looking-glasses, fine furniture, &c.
The Faculty agreed in one respect ; this was to

120 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
make an experiment of purifying the air, by strew
ing the infected district with quicklime and char
coal. About two thousand dollars were laid out
on this experiment, to what good effect did not ap
pear. One opinion regarding the cause of this
malady was, that the ground where the fever broke
out, teemed with animalcules, which floated in the
air at certain times, and gradually extended their
limits in various directions, at the rate of a few
feet every day. It was imagined that people were
infected by inhaling these invisible agents along
with the common air. Animalcules were disco
vered mingled with the matter thrown up by peo
ple in the last stage of this disease. I have heard
of a French physician in the West Indies, who was
a firm nontagionist, and, by way of illustrating his
theory, actually swallowed several spoonfuls of
such matter ejected by a person just at the point of
death : he continued healthy. Whether any of the
New York opposition gentlemen carried their zeal
so far is doubtful. It was calculated-that from ten
thousand to twenty thousand persons would have
fallen victims to this disease, had they not quickly
removed at the first alarm. As the matter turned
out, there were in all only about four hundred
cases, of which two hundred and forty died. The
extra expense, loss in business, &c. incurred by

IN THE UNITED STATES. 121
the citizens of New York this season, was esti
mated at from 3,000,000 to 4,000,000 dollars.
An extract from the papers of the Literary and
Philosophical Society of New York, may not be
out of place here": " Censuses have been ta
ken of this city and State, and of the United
States, at various periods, and with unquestiona
ble accuracy. Bills of Mortality have been kept
here, and in Philadelphia, Boston, and some other
large towns, and tables of the number of births
have also been collected in a few places. On com
paring the births with the whole population, the
deaths with the whole population, the number of
births with the number of deaths, and considering
our rapid augmentation of inhabitants, doubling
in some States in thirteen or fourteen years, and
upon a general average in twenty to twenty-three
years, there can be no doubt, but that the United
States have a decided preference over the healthi
est parts of Europe ; while in Paris, London, and
Amsterdam, there are more deaths than births,
it is ascertained, that in our great cities, there are
at least two births to one death. The charges
which have been brought against the supposed de
leterious effects of our climate upon the human
body, have been thus refuted with the certainty of
demonstration."

122 six years' residence
Upon comparing the number of births with the
number of deaths in Philadelphia, and some other
large towns, from authentic tables for several
years, I have found the former to the latter to be
as seventy to forty-four, not as two to one.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 123

CHAPTER IX.

LONG ISLAND — FIELDS AND FRUIT TREES — HEAT — WINTER SLEDGES,
&C.  FARMERS — INDIAN CORN — RAPIO VEGETATION — PALMA
CHRISTI — APPLES AND CYDER — SNAKES — SKUNK — HORSES AND
HORSE RACES — CONDUCT OF POPULACE.

Long Island, which is situated to the east of
New York, is about a hundred and thirty miles in
length, but very narrow in proportion. A consi
derable part of it is sandy and barren, or rocky.
It is, however, mostly level, and there are some
well cultivated and fertile spots in it. The appear
ance of the fields in the beginning of summer is
truly beautiful. They are regularly studded with
fruit trees, at the distance of twenty-five or thirty
yards : this serves as a shade to protect the cattle
from the great heat of the sun ; and it is also
thought necessary to shade even the crops of
wheat and other grain. The sun is exceedingly
powerful during the summer months. I have of
ten seen the thermometer rise to 140° in July and
August, about two o'clock in the afternoon, when
exposed to the full influence of the sun, and placed
l 2

124 six YEARS' RESIDENCE
so as to receive the rays of that luminary in a di
rection perpendicular to the plane of the thermo
meter ; at the same time, the instrument being
placed in the shade of a large tree, about five feet
from the ground, and exposed to a fine breeze, in
dicated 96°, but this high degree of heat felt by no
means oppressive, as long as the breeze continued :
many, close, sultry, calm days, felt more uncomfor
table with the thermometer at 76°. The summer
cannot be said to last longer here than about five
months ; at least, fires are necessary for about
seven months in the year, excepting an occasional
day in spring. The autumn is generally a delight
ful season. The winter is , very severe. Frosty
weather in America is generally clear, accompa
nied with a strong breeze from north-west, which
blows over an immense tract of uncultivated and
frozen land, and carries along with it a very bitter
degree of cold. At times, it is almost impossible
to walk with your face against th(e blast. The
spring in New York is often disagreeable ; the
streets sometimes being almost impassable. The
forenoon' sun here at all seasons has considerable
influence ; melting the snow off the houses, which
freezes again at night,- and renders walking danger
ous. The winter gives the New Yorkers an op
portunity of enjoying their favourite diversion of

IN THE UNITED STATES. 125
sleighing, or running sledges on the snow. Some
of these machines are very elegant ; and there are
occasionally as many as six horses harnessed to
one of them. These are finely caparisoned and
ornamented with small bells, to give notice of
their approach, otherwise many accidents would
occur, as there is nothing but hard driving in
fashion. The common draymen make use of
sledges when opportunity offers, so that the streets
are a complete scene of confusion and bustle, and
not to be crossed at every place without great cir
cumspection. These machines go at a great rate, and are used
for conveying the mail. The body of the coach is
lifted off the wheels, and placed upon what are
called runners, which is a frame furnished with
two narrow iron bars to run along the snow or ice
in the same manner as a pair of skates. A person
unaccustomed to this mode of travelling, is very
apt to feel the same sensation as that of sea-sick
ness. The farmers in Long Island, and it applies in
general to almost every other State, seem to live
very comfortably ; and although, now that slavery
is abolished in the Northern States, they are com
pelled to work hard, their manner of living ena
bles them to stand a great deal of fatigue. Al-
l 3

126 six years' residence
most every farmer keeps a carriage of some kind
or other, to convey his family to church ; and also
for the purpose of taking a few articles to and
from market. These carriages are mostly what
are called Jersey waggons, beingslight four-wheeled
machines with two or three seats across. They
are furnished with springs (of rather a rude con
struction, however), and are extremely convenient.
Few people in this place think of walking much :
a walk of twenty miles a day would subject the
performer to the imputation of great folly, or great
poverty. The principal articles raised in Long Island, are
wheat, rye, and Indian corn. The wheat crops
are light in general; producing from twenty to
twenty-five bushels per acre.
Indian corn is certainly one of the most produc
tive articles with which Providence has blessed
mankind; and the cultivation of it is simple. It is
planted in rows three or four feet apart, so as to
leave room for a plough to pass along. Four or
five grains are put in together at a distance' of
three feet ; of these, only two or three stalks are
suffered to grow. It attains the height of seven
or eight feet (although in Carolina I have seen it
ten to twelve feet high). A field of such grain
presents a magnificent and luxuriant appearance.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 127
Each stalk produces from two to four heads of
corn ; and upon some of these may be counted
600 grains. Being roasted or boiled in the half-
ripe or green state, this article forms one of the
most delicious morsels of an American dinner.
The blades of this grain, which are long and
broad, form an excellent food for cattle. The
grains are separated from the husk, either by being
trampled by the feet of cattle, or rubbed off by the
hand, which those accustomed to this operation
perform with great expedition. In trampling it
out, the oxen move round a space of ground in a
circular direction. This, probably, was the an
cient method ; whence the injunction in scripture,
not to muzzle the ox that treadeth out the corn.
The rapid progress of vegetation in America
may be readily discerned in the growth of this
grain. I have repeatedly measured the stalks or
blades in such a manner, as that there could be no
mistake, and found a difference or increase of four
to five inches in twenty-four hours. People in
the country here talk of hearing it grow. After a
shower of rain, one would hardly reckon this an
exaggeration. The produce of this grain is va
rious, being from twenty to forty, and even sixty
bushels an acre. There is no doubt but that In
dian corn might be raised in Britain, in favourable

128 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
summers ; at least to the state in which it is used
roasted ; but this would be more an article of lux
ury than of necessity — of curiosity rather than ge
neral utility.
Indian corn, or meal, has been little valued in
Britain ; but the fact is, that the proper way of
preparing it is unknown. It should be ground
very coarse, or rather merely broken in the same
manner as malt, and not reduced to a powder. It
ought, in the first place, to be clean washed, put
into a pot with some cold water, and boiled until
it is somewhat thicker than oatmeal porridge. It
is frgquently eat with butter put upon it, or along
with fried pork, &c. and sometimes with milk.
In Long Island, an immense quantity of shu-
mac grows wild, chiefly along the fences. This
shrub might be cultivated to considerable advan
tage ; but no attention seems to be bestowed upon
it. The Palma-Christi, or plant from which Castor
oil is extracted, thrives in most of the middle and
southern States of America. It is a very elegant
shrub, and with a little cultivation would produce
a great quantity of oil. In Louisiana and Florida
it grows wild, and is the largest annual plant
known in North America, frequently attaining the
height of twenty feet, with a stem six inches in

IN THE UNITED STATES. 129
diameter. I have seen it in great perfection in
Pennsylvania. A great quantity of fine apples are produced in
Lpng Island. One field containing a thousand
trees is no uncommon sight. An immense quan
tity of apples lies on the ground in these orchards
in summer, which are eagerly devoured by the cat
tle or hogs. A considerable quantity of cyder is
made. I have seen single trees which had pro
duced six barrels of cyder in one season, and it
takes three barrels of apples to make one of cyder :
this drink is much used by the country people.
In summer and harvest time, the farm servants are
allowed as much cyder as they choose ; and every
two men, black as well as white, are allowed one
quart of common rum or whisky every day. The
grain is all cut down by the scythe; and it is asto
nishing to observe with what dexterity, celerity,
and neatness, the crops are cut down. However
marvellous it may appear,, it is an undoubted fact,
that four acres of excellent hay have been cut
down in one single day by a Long Island mower.
The plough with two stilts is coming into use;
several farmers having procured iron ones from
Scotland. The old plough with one stilt is, how
ever, much used : it looks very awkward, especi
ally in some fields which are stony.

130 six years' residence
Common black snakes (Coluber constrictor) are
often to be met with in the woods ; but I never
heard of any serious harm being done by them, al
though people have occasionally been considera
bly alarmed by their appearance, as they are very
bold. I have shot them nearly five feet in length,
and as thick as one's wrist.
I cannot help taking notice of a small ani
mal which is frequently to be met with here,
namely, the polecat, or as the Americans ap
propriately term it, the skunk. When closely
pursued, the chief defence of this creature con
sists in its possessing from nature the instinc
tive faculty of wetting its tail, (not with aqua pura
at' all events,) by flourishing which all around it
with wonderful celerity, it besprinkles its enemies
of every description with a liquid, the effusion of
which is the most abominable to be imagined. I
once, in company with a young man, gave chace
to one of these animals in Long Island, which at
length took refuge beneath the stump of a decayed
tree, and immediately commenced offensive opera
tions. In a few seconds, my friend and I disco
vered the native we had to deal with, and retreated
as speedily as possible from the scene of action ;
bjit to retreat from an odour, the most villanous
in nature, which adhered to our clothes and to our-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 131
persons, was impossible. Before entering our
lodging, we were under the necessity of casting off
a considerable part of our apparel ; but in spite of
all that soap and water could do, and our having
recourse to the aid of perfumes, more congenial to
the olfactory nerves of civilized mankind, for seve
ral days did the vile scent of the skunk predomi
nate. A terrier dog which, assisted in our hunt,
and received the greater part of the skunk-water,
did nothing for -some days but roll in the mud, rub
himself upon the grass, and use every method in
his power to get rid of the odious flavour. I have
heard it asserted, and by no means doubt the truth
of the affirmation, that the smell of the skunk has
been known to reach to the distance of two miles.
The inhabitants of this State have, of late years,
paid great attention to their breed of horses ; and
several have been produced, which, for speed and
beauty, do no discredit to their English grandsires
and grandams. In the spring of 1823, a match
was concluded between the jockeys of New York
and those of Virginia, for twenty thousand dollars
a side. This race was run on the course at Long
Island, about ten miles from New York, and was
extremely well contested. The match was for the
best of three 4 mile heats. The Virginian horse
gained the first heat ; the New Yorkers then,

132 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
somehow or other, had their rider changed for
what they considered a more expert hand : the
matter did not seem altogether fair to some people.
In consequence of this change, the New York
horse gained the two last heats by two or three
lengths. The average time in which each of these
heats was performed, was six minutes and thirty-
eight seconds. The whole distance run was twelve
miles ; so that the horses of America want neither
speed nor bottom. Next day, a race was run for
a thousand dollars a side, which was gained by the
Virginians. Great sums were at stake upon these
races. To convey a suitable idea of the great esteem,
if I may so call it, in which the New York horse
Eclipse was held even by the fair sex, I may men
tion, that a young lady of Long Islandvery grave
ly told a female friend of my own, that she would
cause her father to procure for her a hair or two
of the Eclipse's tail, for the purpose of making a
finger ring. My friend assured her, that she real
ly had not the smallest particle of ambition to pos
sess such a relic; at which want of taste, the young
American damsel expressed no small degree of as
tonishment. The race-ground presented a scene of great in
terest, no less than fifty thousand people being

IN THE UNITED STATES. 133
upon the ground, many of them from distant
parts of the Union. Many scenes of mirth and
jollity occurred ; but although liquor of every de
scription flowed in abundance, be it said to the
credit of the Americans, that very few scenes of
riot or quarrelling took place. One cannot help
remarking the peaceable and orderly conduct
amongst all ranks in America, whether in the
country, or in large towns, and all this quietness
and decorum seems to result from the comfortable
state of the people in general, and not from the
mere terror of having a troop of armed men let
loose amongst them. Excepting in coaches or
waggons, there were no ladies on the ground, and
but few females of any description.

M

134 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE

CHAPTER X.

ROAD TO PHILADELPHIA — JOSEPH BONAPARTE — APPEARANCE OF
PHILADELPHIA — SQUARES — PUBLIC BUILDINGS — QUAKERISM —
MINT — MARKETS — BRIDGES — BANKS OF SCHUYLKILL ON SUNDAY
EVENING — MUSEUM — MAMMOTH — HOSPITAL — LIBRARIES —
FRANKLIN'S TOMB.
The distance by the mail-coach road from New
York to Philadelphia is 95 miles; but the cheap
est and most usual route is by the steam-boat
line, which conveys you in eleven or twelve
hours generally. There are twenty-five miles of
this route performed in stage coaches, viz. from
New Brunswick to Trenton, where you go on
board a steam-boat which carries you to Philadel
phia, thirty miles farther down the river Dela
ware. The whole charge from New York to Phi
ladelphia, by one line of boats and stages, is only
two dollars (9s. )-^ A few miles below Trenton, you
pass on the left bank of the river the seat of
Joseph Bonaparte : his grounds are extensive ; and
although the land is not remarkable for richness,

IN THE UNITED STATES. 135
he is making considerable improvements on it,
and employs a great number of workmen. He
has taken considerable pains to bring a good breed
of game from England, and other parts of Europe,
to his estate. This ex-king of Spain is now trans
formed into a plain, useful, country gentleman,
and he is in general well spoken of by all who have
had any dealings with him. He is very humane
and liberal to the distressed, especially of his own
country. He is occasionally to be met with on
board the steam-boat, and appears to be a most
unassuming, mild-looking, decent man ; possessing,
however, a considerable share of family likeness to
his once illustrious brother, but his countenance
exhibits little of that determined inflexibility which
was so conspicuous in Napoleon's looks. He
sometimes makes use of a sedan chair, which
would be unworthy of notice, were it not the only
machine of the kind I ever saw in America, and
seemed to excite great astonishment amongst some
of the natives. Although by no means ostenta
tious, or desirous of attracting particular notice in
his mode of travelling, yet I could plainly perceive,
that especially about the landing places, there was
a considerable degree of respect and deference
evidenced even by the Republican populace of
America, towards this personification of fallen
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136 six years' residence
royalty. Joseph, by the bye, does not, in one res
pect at least, resemble his fore-runner of Egypt ;
his wife has been on the continent of Europe for
some years past, and if scandal is not too busy, he
is charged with being rather too polite to the la
dies. On approaching Philadelphia, it has by no
means such a striking appearance as New York,
being embellished with only two or three steeples ;
and the houses next the river present a very
gloomy aspect, the bricks of which many of them
are constructed being dark-coloured. Like New
York, it stands between two rivers, the Delaware
on the east, and the Schuylkill on the west, about
four miles above their junction. This city is laid
out upon a very regular plan ; the streets crossing
each other at right angles. From river to river
the distance is exactly two miles ; in which space
twenty-three streets run north and south: these
are crossed by streets running east and west;
the principal of which is Market Street. In
Philadelphia, the streets are so much alike,
and placed at such equal distances apart, that
however paradoxical it may appear, I have
heard strangers remark, that they encountered as
much difficulty in finding their way properly
through this city of regularity, as they ever did

IN THE UNITED STATES. 137
in some towns which are remarkable for crooked
and diagonal streets. Many of them are not
marked so regularly as they might be. Upon the
whole, this city presents a much more neat and
clean appearance than New York ; but it wants, in
a great measure, that enlivening stir and bustle
which is so conspicuous in the latter place. The
trade of Philadelphia has fallen greatly off within
the last twenty years. It is said, however, that a
vast deal of wealth still belongs to it. It is report
ed that a banker of the name of Stephen Gerard
in this town, is the richest man in America, pos
sessing property to the amount of from fifteen to
seventeen millions of dollars.
There are several very large squares in Phila
delphia, which must contribute greatly to the
health of the inhabitants, and gives an airy look to
the city. Two of these squares measure at least
eight or nine hundred feet on each side, and the
middle is handsomely laid out with shrubs and
flowers. Philadelphia is well supplied with many band-
some and convenient churches for all denomina
tions of Christians : the whole number of these is
about seventy.
The National Bank lately erected here at an
enormous expense, is a very massy building, en-
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138 six years' residence
tirefy of white marble, and quite in the classic style,
but rather gloomy in appearance, having no win
dows in the front, and it is by no means situated
so as to be seen to advantage. The capital of this
bank is thirty-five millions of dollars (£7,875,000,)
a branch of which is established in most of the
principal towns in America.
In Chesnut Street, there is a handsome range
of buildings, comprising the State House, Public
Courts, and the Museum. The hall in which the
declaration of independence was drawn out and
signed, is in the ground floor of this range. The
theatre nearly opposite is a very large building ;
but the stage is not patronised so much here as in
New York.
A new State Prison, on a very extensive scale,
is now erecting on the outskirts of the city. The
buildings and yards will occupy ten acres. The
principle of solitary confinement will predominate
in this establishment.
Philadelphia is often spoken of in Britain as
being a complete town of Quakers ; but if their
numbers may be estimated from their places of
worship, they would seem to form only a small
part of the community, there being only five or
six meeting houses for Quakers in the whole city :
one or two of these, however, are very large. The

IN THE UNITED STATES. 139
whole of Philadelphia and its inhabitants, have
certainly received a considerable tinge of Quaker
ism, at least in appearance. In general, they are
more cautious than the New Yorkers, and not
quite so frank to strangers, although it is likely
that they may be fully more steady. There are
different degrees of Quakerism here ; much affec
tation and frippery may be seen amongst the dan
dies of that sect; it is only by some slight em
blem that they can be distinguished from their
stay and whalebone brethren. Some of the Qua
ker ladies dress very richly ; a trifling difference
perhaps in the shape of their hat, alone, serving to
distinguish them from the " women of this world."
The Quakers here, in general, deserve the cha
racter which few will deny them, being honest,
peaceable, inoffensive, and humane, although some
of them are complete Jews, in the common sense
of the word.
The Mint, where the national money is coined,
is an obscure building. The chief currency in
America consists of Spanish coin. The whole
amount which has been coined since the establish
ment of the present government is 23,000,000
dollars in gold and silver. In the year 1826,
gold and silver equal in value to 29,000,000 dol
lars was coined in the tower of London, and in the

140 six years' residence
eighteen months ending December 1829, gold alone
to the amount of 87,000,000 dollars was coined at
the same place.* Gold is hardly to be seen in
America in general business. Bank notes to an
immense amount are issued all over the country.
In the common course of business, I have repeat
edly put single bank bills of three thousand dollars
each through my hands. In some States, notes for
such small sums as 6£ and 12J cents (3^d. and
6|d.) are issued, and during the war with Britain
bank notes for one cent (a half-penny) were quite
current. Half, and quarter dollar notes are com
mon every where.f This creates much trouble
* The coins issued from the United States Mint are as
follows : —
Gold. Eagle, weight 270 grains, value, 10 dollars, 45s. stg.
Half do. ... 135  5 ... 22s.6d. ...
Qr. do. ... 67i  2i ... lis. 3d. ...
Standard gold is 1 1 parts pure, and 1 alloy.
Silver. Dollar, weight 416 grains, 100 cents, 4s. 6d. ...
... Half do. ... 208 ... 50 ... 2s. 3d. ...
... Qr.do. ... 104 ... 25 ... Is. Ud....
... Dime, ... 41f ... 10 ... 5fd. ...
... Half do. ... 20f ... 5 ... 2,fyl. ...
Standard silver is 1485 parts pure, and 179 alloy.
Copper. Cent equal to f&ths of a penny sterling, or a fraction
more than an halfpenny.
Half-cent (seldom in use) equal to a fraction more
than a farthing sterling.
f In the Southern States, where the Negroes cannot read,

in the united states. 141
and confusion to strangers, especially when taken
into view along with the useless system of keeping
up the name of the old currency, thus — 12f cents
(6|d. sterling,) which is Is. New York currency,
is in Philadelphia styled an eleven-penny bit, in
Boston a ninepenny, and in Charleston a seven-
penny. The better plan for strangers to adopt in
their purchases, is invariably to demand the price
of any article in dollars and cents, otherwise they
are not unfrequently liable to be imposed upon in
the hurry of marketing.
The markets of Philadelphia have been much
celebrated, and deservedly so. They are situated
in Market Street, which is a hundred feet wide,
and are built in the form of sheds, much in the
same way as the new sheds at the Broomielaw,
being merely a roof supported on each, side by
arches of brick. The stalls are placed at each
side, and a passage is left open through the mid
dle. These sheds extend from the Delaware very
nearly a mile in length, and are daily furnished
with every necessary or luxury which the country
affords, either animal or vegetable. They exhibit,
in an eminent degree, a country rich in the good
these small notes are ornamented with the figure of a pig, a
dog, or a cock, and accordingly receive these appellations from
the blacks.

142 six years' residence
things of this life. On certain days also, the
country people bring in an immense quantity of
provisions in waggons, which are ranged along the
upper part of this street, and one of the cross
streets. Sometimes these waggons occupy a space
of two miles in length, so that some idea may be
formed of the whole. This market may certainly
vie with any in the world for profusion and cheap
ness. The average price of excellent fresh beef is
four to five cents (2d. to 2|d.) per lb. and other
articles in proportion. I have frequently observed
strings of what I took for small birds skinned,
hanging up at the stalls, but on inquiry, found
them to be frogs. These markets are kept very
clean, the city being abundantly supplied with
good water from the Schuylkill. The water is
raised from this river by large water wheels con
nected with machinery, which forces the water
through large pipes to the summit of an eminence
about a mile from the city, from whence the water
is conducted by pipes to every part of the town.
This water undergoes little, if any filtration, and
in summer is often disagreeably warm, a thermo
meter dipt into it standing at 74 or 76 degrees.
It is, however, of great benefit to the city, being
kept continually running through some streets,
and is very convenient in case of fire. The pipes

IN THE UNITED STATES. 143
originally laid were of wood, which are now being
replaced by cast-iron pipes mostly imported from
Britain. At Philadelphia, there are two bridges over
the Schuylkill, which cannot fail to attract the
notice of a stranger. The lower bridge consists
of four arches built of wood, resting upon solid
stone piers, which were raised at great expense,
and against almost insurmountable difficulties.
When it is considered, that the water where one
of these piers stands, is forty-one feet deep at high
water, the great difficulty of laying the foundation
of such massy stone work at this depth, will be
very obvious. The distance between two of the
centre piers is a hundred and ninety-four feet, con
sequently, this shows the width of the arch ; the
other three are rather less. These arches are
built on the suspension principle; the carriage
way appearing as if hanging from the roof. The
sides are built up, with windows on each side to
admit light and air, and roofed over upon the top.
The upper bridge is built of timber, and crosses
the river in one prodigious span of three hundred
and fifty feet from pier to pier : it is also built upon
the suspension principle, and from the yielding na
ture of the materials of which it is composed, and
the great extent it stretches over, unsupported

144 six teaks' residence
from beneath, it has evidently got a considerable
inclination, or twist, to one side, which is said to
have been occasioned by a gale of wind. A cer
tain number, only, of carriages are allowed to pass
alongst it at the same time. An idea may be
formed of the appearance of this bridge, by ima
gining to yourself a very long, large, one story
house, (with windows in the sides and roofed over
the top) lifted from its foundation and laid across
the river, being also considerably raised in the
middle. The lower bridge cost 400,000 dollars
(,=£90,000) in building. These fabrics are strik
ing proofs of the perseverance and mechanical
genius of the Americans. Foot passengers pay one
cent (a half-penny) in passing these bridges, both
u-oing and coming; carriages in proportion.
The banks of the Schuylkill above the bridges
are very beantiful and romantic, and adorned with
some elegant seats. There are several handsome
villages across the water here, the resort of a great
many idlers on Sunday ; which day is most wo
rldly trespassed upon by many of the inhabitants
of the sober city of Philadelphia. The appear
ance of the suburbs on a fine Sabbath afternoon,
especially near the banks of the rivers, would lead
to the notion, that some great holiday was being
celebrated. Such a turn ont of well-dressed men

IN THE UNITED STATES. 145
and womeD, apparently in excellent spirits, and
determined, as it were, to enjoy themselves, with
out much regard to decorum or quietness, can
never be witnessed in Scotland on a Sunday even
ing, else the very nature of her population will
be most wretchedly perverted. A person brought
up in a country where the Sabbath is hallowed as
it is in Scotland, cannot look, without indignation
mingled with pity, to see respectable looking, well
dressed females, seated in little boxes along side
their gallants, describing the segment of a circle
at least forty feet in diameter, by means of being
suspended in these machines, and swung back
wards and forwards at a great rate. Another sort
of whirligig concern carries ladies and gentlemen
seated on wooden horses or chairs, round about
in a horizontal direction. Such amusements are
only resorted to by the most " base vulgar" in
Scotland, or by mere chUdren upon holidays.
Taverns near the city drive a good business on
Sunday, being well frequented by people who wish
to breathe the fresh air, smoke cigars, eat cat-fish,
drink grog, talk politics, and sundry other recrea
tions too tedious to enumerate. In the face of
such open bare-faced Sabbath breaking, the Ame
ricans consider themselves quite a religious people ;
and when challenged regarding such abuses, will
N

146 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
merely retort, that they are not such hypocrites as
the Scotish. It is true that they neither grudge to
build churches, nor maintain ministers at an ordi
nary rate, but they consider a little relaxation
quite excusable at all' times; and all manner of in
terference, or control, is perfectly incompatible
with their principles.
In regard to one branch of morality, the Ame
ricans are not quite so very strict as they would
wish to be thought, I mean, that in many cases,
there is not sufficient regard paid to the matrimo
nial tie: divorces and separations are too com
mon, and the advertising of run-a-way wives by
their husbands, is a circumstance of daily occur
rence in some places. There are also a conside
rable number of cases, where the crime of bigamy
is committed without much notice being taken of
the matter. It must, however, be allowed, that
fewer repentance-stool concerns occur among the
people in general, than in some countries. Early
marriages may partly be the occasion of this.
The Museum in Philadelphia is the private col
lection of a Mr Peale, and may be visited every
lawful day, by paying 25 cents (13^d.) The col
lection of stuffed wild beasts is tolerable, and the
show of birds and insects quite respectable. There
are several valuable and extraordinary speci-

IN THE UNITED STATES. '.47
mens of mineralogy and conchology. The anato
mical preparations are hardly worth mentioning.
The most striking are the skeletons of a horse and
his rider,' mounted, with a dart in his hand, both
of which, while in life, were remarkable for size.
There are generally some living snakes to be seen.
In 1824, a living specimen of the large bat or
vampire (Vespertilio Vampirus) from Java, was
exhibited here, the body of which was about the
size of a pigeon, and the wings, when extended,
measured nearly four feet in width. Two very
beautiful brass cannon, richly engraved, which be
longed to the famous Dutch admiral, Van Tromp,
are placed here.
There are no ancient books or manuscripts, and
only a very few coins, mostly of modern date.
The paintings consist almost entirely of the por
traits of American heroes and statesmen, and a
few other worthies conspicuous in the revolution.
Paul Jones, the famous picaroon, has a station
amongst them. One of the finest paintings is
a full length portrait of the proprietor, done by
himself. Mr Peale is allowed on all hands to be
a liberal and enlightened gentlemen, and is not
unknown in Europe as a lover of natural history.
The most conspicuous and attractive object in
this Museum is the skeleton of the now unknown
N 2

148

SIX YEARS RESIDENCE

huge animal distinguished by the name of Mam
moth. The remains of this certainly antediluvian
creature has excited much philosophical inquiry
amongst the learned of Europe and America.
That there did exist vast numbers of them on this
continent is quite manifest, hardly a part of the
country being without their remains, and some
parts in the back country being literally strewed
with their bones.
The famous Doctor Hunter was decidedly of
opinion, that the Mammoth was a carnivorous ani
mal. Buffoon and several others were of an op
posite opinion, asserting that these remains were
merely the bones of elephants. It has, however,
been shown, that if so, elephants in that age must
have been at least six times as large as they are
ever now seen in India, and the teeth differ consi
derably from those of that animal. If the human
race in those days were of like dimensions with
men of the present age, they must have had most
formidable antagonists to contend with ; but the
scripture expressly states, that there were giants be
fore the flood, and might not this be also the case
amongst the inferior animals ? The whole gigan
tic race may have been destroyed at that time, so
that after all, the elephant may be merely a dege
nerate race of this antediluvian Colossus. The

IN THE UNITED. STATES. 149
tusks are, however, somewhat different in appear
ance, the points being directed downwards, if I re
collect right. At all events I remember perfectly
well of hearing a young lady exclaim on seeing it,
that surely it could not have been an elephant, as
the tusks were placed the wrong way; there is
also a manifest difference in the grinding teeth
from those of an elephant.
The appearance of this skeleton strikes every
beholder with astonishment, and one can hardly
help exclaiming, " what a tremendous animal this
must have been when alive." Some idea may be
formed of it from the following dimensions of the
skeleton in the Philadelphia Museum :
Length from the point of the tusks to the end of
the tail, 
Ditto from the chin to the rump,
Height at the shoulders, 
Width of the hips and body, ....
Length of the under jaw, .....
Weight of ditto 63 lbs.
Length of thigh bone, ....
Smallest circumference of ditto,
Length of the large bone of the fore-leg,
Greatest circumference of ditto,
Smallest ditto ditto ....
Circumference round the knee,
Length of the tusks, .....
Circumference of one tooth, . .
Weight of one tooth, 4 lbs. 10 ozs.
Weight of the whole skeleton, 1000 lbs.
N 3

Feet.

Inches.

31

...

15

...

11

...

5

8

3

1

3

7

1

6

2

9

3

»i

1

5

3

8

10

7

1

6i

150 six years' residence
These bones were dug up at a farm fourteen
miles west from New-Burgh, a town on the Hud
son, about sixty miles above New York. A suffi
cient quantity of bones were also got at the same
place, so as to form another skeleton, which Mr
Peale, who undertook the digging of these re
mains, at great trouble and expense, sent to Lon
don, where it is to be seen in the British Museum.
A tradition prevails amongst the Indians, that
there still exists a couple of these formidable ani
mals far to the westward of the rocky mountains,
ready to be let loose by the Great Spirit, to de
vour up the sinful part of mankind, when they ar
rive at a certain pitch of wickedness.
The Pennsylvania Hospital is a very extensive
building, and the space around it is beautifully laid
out with shrubs and flowers. Upon a pedestal
which stands on the green in front, a statue of
William Penn is erected : his memory is deserved
ly revered here. In the Museum, I observed a
beautiful small pyramid or pedestal, formed out
of the identical tree beneath which William Penn
concluded his treaty with the Indians.
There are several excellent Public Libraries in
the city. In the front of the Philadelphia library,
a marble bust of Franklin is placed in a niche : it
was executed in Italy at an expense of £500.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 151
He was buried in Christ Church-yard in North
Second Street, and merely a plain stone points
out the spot, where the remains of this plain, can
did, and unassuming philosopher is deposited.
The Americans do not seem to express their
veneration for their departed heroes, so much in
rearing monuments to immortalise their names, as
in a habitual veneration and respect to their me
mory. The names of Washington and Franklin
are indelibly engraven on the heart of every Ame
rican. A considerable part of the next chapter being
taken up with remarks on the manufacture of cot
ton goods, such of my readers as are not interested
on that subject, may turn over half a dozen pages.

102 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE

CHAPTER XI.
COTTON MANUFACTURES — PRICE OF WEAVING UTENSILS — PRICE OF
PROVISIONS, &C  WAGES — ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS.
The manufacture of cotton goods has made consi
derable progress in Philadelphia. In 1825, it was
calculated that there were no less than five thou
sand looms at work in the city and suburbs. Two
or three of the most extensive houses employed
between two and three hundred hands each. The
manufacturers generally dye all their own yarn.
There are several bleaching establishments near
the city. 6J Cents (3|d.) is the general charge
per lb. weight for full bleach.
As I carried on the manufacturing a little my
self in Bristol, (twenty miles from Philadelphia,)
I can speak with some degree of confidence on the
subject. The average prices of weaving, for some years
past, are such, that an ordinary weaver can rea
dily earn one dollar per day. In 1825 — 6, the
price paid for weaving 4-4ths 800 common check

IN THE UNITED STATES. 153
was 5| to 6 cents (3d. to 3^d.) per yard of thirty-
seven inches. (The weaver, be it observed, is not
required to weave forty-five inches to the ell here.)
Out of this, he must pay for the winding of his
weft. This is generally done by boys or girls of
from ten to fourteen years of age, who receive 62J
cents (2s. lOd.) per week for each loom they sup
ply. Upon an average, each boy or girl can wind
for two looms.
There is hardly such a thing as dressing used in
America, the yarn being of an excellent quality,
as it is generally the best quality of upland, or
New Orleans cotton that is spun there. Yarn, No.
12 to 18, is spun out of as good stuff as what
is used for No. 80 to 90 in Britain. No. 30 to
32 is the finest warp used in America; and even
that but in small quantities. The most common
numbers used are from 10 to 16. I have known
weavers finish thirty yards of 800 4— 4ths check per
day, for weeks together : this was earning about
ten dollars (45s.) clear per week, and the general
price of boarding paid by such tradesmen is 2\
dollars (10s. 2d.) per week. The majority of
small manufacturers board their workmen in their
own houses, by which they generally gain a profit
of about a dollar a week for each man.
In 1825, I manufactured a quantity of 900 apron

154 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
checks; the warp of which was No. 17 and 18,
and wefted with No. 20. It was not without diffi
culty that I found weavers for such fine work, as
they termed it. When finished, however, the
cloth was preferred to imported 1000 checks from
Glasgow, and I received 27 cents by whole
sale for them in Philadelphia, which was more
by two cents per yard than what British 1000
goods of the same breadth (33 inches) brought
at that time. I put up a web or two of ll00 7-8ths
gingham, warp No. 30, which I could not easily
procure in Philadelphia ; but such fine work as
this completely frightened any weaver to whom it
was offered. I got them wove at last, after lying
about seven months in the loom, by paying an ex
tra price, but I plainly saw, that the weavers in
America like such work as they can rattle away at
without much ceremony. What I mean is this,
(as they expressed it themselves to me,) that they
are fond of going through a great quantity of work
in a short- time. For example, they would much
rather weave thirty yards a day at five cents, than
fifteen yards at ten.
Should a weaver feel so inclined, he may manu
facture goods for himself upon a very small scale.
Ready warped chains are to be had in New York
or Philadelphia, at any time, and weft eith r grey

IN THE UNITED STATES." 155
or dyed. Weavers, it must be confessed, in Ameri
ca, pay very little deference to their employers in
general, and in many cases seem to think they are
actually conferring a favour on the manufacturer
by accepting of work. How different is this from
the order of things in Glasgow.
The weaving shops are dry and comforta
ble, many of them up stairs. In some streets in
the suburbs of Philadelphia, you will hear little,
save the rattling of the shuttle ; and that too, in
handsome two or three story brick houses. It will
be a long time ere weavers will be got in America,
who will consent to work in low and damp shops,
and it is well known to manufacturers, that many
kinds of fine muslin cannot possibly be woven un
less in a humid atmosphere ; there are enough of
causes to create ague in America, without exciting
them by artificial means. On these grounds there
fore, the manufacture of fine muslins in America
will be retarded until such time as the population
becomes overwhelming, and all the land cleared.
As long as the high duties on low priced im
ported cotton goods continue in force, there can
be little danger of the weaving trade wanting en
couragement ; indeed, in the nature of things it is
impossible. Low priced British plain cottons,
checks, and stripes, are now almost entirely out of

156 six years' residence
the market. By the new Tariff, a duty of nine
cents (5d.) is charged on the square yard of import
ed cottons, which in some cases amounts to nearly
200 per cent, on the original cost; this no doubt
forms a great temptation to smuggling, but little is
attempted in that way.
The American government, by imposing heavy
duties upon low priced British cottons, will ensure
fair encouragement to their manufacturers, and by
admitting British muslins of the finer descriptions
at a moderate rate of duty, they will ensure to
themselves a steady and respectable revenue, with
out in any degree injuring their own manufactur
ers. The more moderate that the duties may be
upon fine muslins, the more extensive will be the
demand. To a weaver, who in Scotland can earn little
more than one shilling per day, and even that by
hard working, America certainly offers very fair en
couragement. Reckoning his wages in Philadelphia
even at one dollar a day, which he can make with
ease, working only ten hours daily, he can procure
every necessary of life considerably cheaper than
in Glasgow. House rent and fuel are fully higher
than in Scotland, but the cheapness of provisions
in a family, will at least counterbalance that by the

IN THE UNITED STATES. 157
year's end. The prices of a few articles may be
mentioned : viz.
Good fresh Beef . . 3£ to 5 cents (2d. to 2|d.) per lb.
Do. salt do. . 3 to 4 — (ljd. to 2d. ) —
Do. muttou . . 4 to 6 — (2d. to 3d. ) —
Bacon Ham, average 10 to 12 — (5£d. to 6£d.) —
Butter .... 12±toi8f — (6|d. to 10Jd.) —
Candles, (common) 12| to 14 — (6|d. to 7|d.) —
Soap, Brown . . 6± — (3£d.) —
Good Brown Sugar 9 to 10 — (5d. to 5£d.) —
Good Coffee . . 18 to 25 — (lOd. to 13Jd.) —
• Good Black Tea, (little used here) 75 — (3s. 4£d.) —
Good Green Tea . 1 to 1£ dollars (4s. 6d. to 5s. 8d.) —
Chocolate . . . 18 to 31 cents (lOd. to 17d. ) —
Flour is generally 5 to 6 dollars, (22s. 6d. to 27s. per barrel of
196 lbs. nett weight.)
Tobacco in almost every shape, is cheap in
America; but some articles manufactured from this
plant are very high in price. There is a kind of
chewing tobacco, called " Cavendish," made up in
small rolls like the kind known by the name of
Negro-head, which sells at one dollar per lb. whilst
the latter sells at lOd. per lb. In Philadelphia,
you may purchase a coarse kind of segars, so low
as twenty-five cents (13Ad.) per hundred, and I
have seen a still coarser sort at only 7d. per hun
dred, whilst the finest Havanna segars are not sold

158 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
under twenty to twenty-two dollars (£4 10s. to
£4 19s.) per box, which contains one thousand.
If a weaver enjoys good health, to use a homely
phrase, he may " live upon clover," comparatively
speaking. The first summer or fall, strangers are
no doubt liable to suffer more or less from inter
mittent fevers, which prevail in a certain degree
every season, all over the low country.
Owing to the great increase of the weaving busi
ness in Philadelphia, there is considerable employ
ment for makers of weaving utensils, Reed-makers
and Heddle-makers. A statement of the prices
charged for the following articles, will show what
degree of encouragement is held out to such
tradesmen. A Warping Mill 7 yards in circumference, costs 17 dollars, or
£3 16s. 6d.
Heck for do. with 100 eyes, made of common iron wire,
twisted, costs 8 to 9 dollars, 36s. to 40s. 6d.
Heck do. with 100 eyes, of good brass and steel materials, and
well finished, costs from 16 to 18 dollars, £3 12s. to £4 Is.
A. Loom Frame, costs from 4 to 6 dollars, 1 8s. to 27s.
A % Common Lay, (or Lathe as it is
called here,) . . . . 3 J dollars or 15s. 9d.
A | Double Box, do  4£ — or 19s. 2d.
A | Common Lay  5 — or 22s. 6d.
A f Double Box, do. ".  6£ — or 28s. 2d.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 159
Shuttles, which are generally of a very superior manufacture,
cost \\ dollars, or (5s. 8d. each.)
Bobbins for warping 3 to 8 cents each. Bobbins for weft 1£
dollars, or (5s. 8d.) per gross.
Reeds, made wholly of brass, 20 cents (lid.) per hundred,
splits.
Do. do. of cane, 15 cents (8£) do.
Worsted Heddles, 20 to 22 cents (lid. to 12d.) do.
Such are the prices for these articles new, but
there are establishments in Philadelphia and New
York, where all these utensils may be had second
hand, considerably cheaper.
The following were the prices of weaving in
New York and Philadelphia in 1827.
f 7°° Stripes or plaid, per yard of 37 inches, 3j cents or 2d.
- 800 do  4
| 700 Check  5
- 8°» do  6
- 10°° do  10
J 700 Gingham  7
a 7°» Bed Tick  5
| 800 Chambray  4
The price paid to women for winding yarn on bobbins for
warping, is 5 cents per score of hanks, equal to Is. sterling for
5 spindles. Price of cotton yarn at this date, No. 14. 30 cents per lb.
rising 1 cent per No. to No. 18. and 1£ cents per No. above
that. Cotton wool has however fallen considerably since then,
which will have an effect in lowering the price of yarn.
o 2

... or

2id

... or

2|d.

... or

3|d

... or

5*d

... or

4d.

... or

2}d

... or

2W

160 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
Prices of dyeing a good dark blue . 25 cents (13W.) per lb.
Do. do. light do. . 12| — ( 6fd.) —
Do. , Bengal Indigo, ... 3 dollars, (13s. 6d.) —
Do. Carolina, do. 87 to 100 cents (4s. to 4s. 6d.) —
There can be little danger that the prices paid
for weaving will fall, so as that an average weaver
may not earn one dollar per day, as I have already
stated; there being always plenty of work to be
obtained in other parts of the country which is
about as well paid. Even as the matter stands,
there are many weavers, who (whether through
whim or a love of variety,) work at canal digging
in preference to weaving in summer. There are
several undertakings of this nature going on in
different quarters ; one between Philadelphia and
Baltimore gives employment to a great number of
hands. The workmen at this canal are paid four
teen to sixteen dollars (£3 3s. to £3 12s.) permonth,
are boarded and lodged and have an allowance of
grog. It has often been asked in Scotland, why do so
many people who emigrate to America return home
in disgust, as soon as they have it in their power ?
It may be answered that such persons have seldom
given it a fair trial, they meet with disappoint
ments, difficulties, and perhaps sickness in Ameri
ca as well as in Scotland, and there is something

IN THE UNITED STATES. 161
in mankind which upholds them in the hour of dis
tress at home, whilst they are very apt to become
desponding and melancholy in a land of strangers.
A very slight degree of sickness is magnified into a
dangerous fever, and that inextinguishable love of
" sweet home," which can never be entirely eradi
cated from the breast of a genuine Scotsman, but
serves the more to aggravate his distress, and per
plex his mind with anxiety and unnecessary alarm.
A great many come out to America, in the idea !
that they will find every thing ready to their hand;
but a man arriving there without some little capi
tal, must expect to work very hard indeed for the
first few years. If in the farming line, unless a man
can purchase a lot of land with a few acres already
cleared, he must be prepared to encounter much
hardship and privation. I can conceive nothing
more disheartening to an emigrant weaver, for ex
ample, than to put an axe into his hand, take him
into an almost boundless forest, and say " here are
an hundred acres of land for you, but you must
find your breakfast and dinner wherever you can,
and get your land cleared as quick as you may."
On a man who has been immured all his life in a
loom shop in Scotland, the summer sun of Ameri
ca has a powerful effect, and a shuttle is a much
more tangible instrument, than a felling axe or a
o 3

162 six years' residence
spade. I have known several who emigrated to
Canada and the United States, who returned to
their native country after trifling for a month or
two, but could not set their hearts to the clearing
business. It requires much perseverance and
steadiness ; and although the beneficial effects of
industry applied in this manner does not manifest
itself all at once, yet, the continued application to
his calling for a few years at first, ensures to the
emigrant, a competency at all events, and compara
tive ease for the remainder of his existence. Every
stroke of the axe, tells, either to himself or his
posterity. Many who came to America, with as much as
would place them in some comfortable way in the
country, are too lavish, both of their time and their
money in the port they arrive at, by listening to
different accounts of eligible situations in opposite
parts of the country. A person proposing to set
tle in America, if he has no friends previously do
miciled in some part of the country, should deter
mine firmly in his own mind his future abode, and
listen to neither one story, nor another regarding
prosperous settlements. The fact is, that the
generality of people in the large towns of America,
know as little of the matter as himself, excepting
what they may have derived from printed accounts

IN THE UNITED STATES. 163
accessible to every one. The sooner an emigrant
is out of town the better, and should he want the
means or inclination of setting out for some of the
back western States, there is yet plenty of good
land to be had in the western parts of Pennsylva
nia or New York. The Erie canal runs through
a rich country for three hundred and sixty miles,
the access is easy from New York, and land on the
banks of this canal must yearly increase in value.
In differentparts, especially of Pennsylvania, there
are many proprietors of land who make a bargain
with any person who has been accustomed to farm
ing, on these conditions : The proprietor builds a
convenient house on the land, provides farming
utensils, horses, &c. also seed for the ground ; in
consideration of this, he receives one half of all
produce raised on the land. This is certainly a very
fair opening to a man of industrious habits, who
may arrive in America with little or no money,
and it is wholly unattended with any risk.
An industrious man who can pay his expenses
to America, and have rflOO, or even ^50 in his
pocket on his arrival there, may, in a very few
years, be the proprietor of a small farm, provided
he is saving, and commences operations in one
shape or other immediately upon his arrival there.
There are, however, in America, thousands of

164 six years' residence
farmers and mechanics who arrived out literally
without a dollar in their pocket, and are now pos
sessed of considerable property.
In the ship Camillus, by which vessel I went out
to New York in 1822, amongst a number of emi
grants, there was one family from the Highlands,
which were, by a happy combination of circum
stances, particularly calculated to do well in Ame
rica. The head of the family was a man about
forty-six years of age, strong and healthy ; he was
a good practical farmer, as far as could be ex
pected from a cultivator of the land in the wild
district of country to which he belonged. A per
son, however, of this description, is perhaps better
adapted to the bringing in of the new lands in
America, than a first rate farmer from the Lo-
thians, or the Carse of Gowrie. Mere physical
strength, and a competent share of perseverance
being more particularly called for than the refine
ments of agriculture. He was also a good black
smith ; and moreover, preached occasionally, as I
understood from himself, belonging to the society
of Baptists. His family consisted of a wife and
nine children ; several of them stout young men and
women. To sum up all, he had property with him
to the amount of ^400 or ^500 sterling, and was
going to a part of the country (Logan County in

IN THE UNITED STATES. 165
Kentucky) where a brother of his had been
settled for some years. He was quite aware of
the long and fatiguing journey he had to under
take, before arriving at his proposed residence ;
but seemed no way dismayed, being confident,
that independence and plenty would finally crown
his exertions. Such a family as this is, beyond
all doubt, a great acquisition to any of the young
States of America. Indeed, by taking the proba
bilities of human life into view, we may not err
greatly in supposing, that this man's descendants,
in the course of little more than a century hence,
may, in all likelihood, be sufficient to form a com
plete colony of their own.
In wandering through the magnificent forests of
America, I have often been tempted to exclaim
with Westmoreland, in the play, " Oh ! that we
had but some ten thousand of those men in Eng
land that do no work to-day." I would not,
however, have it understood, that my feelings
would be at all gratified in beholding the artizans
and peasantry of my native country swarming to a
foreign land for want of employment and bread.
The heart of every patriot must bleed at the idea
of losing the strength and the stamina of our coun
try ; but the philanthropist, or the citizen of the
world, must view the matter in another light.

166 six years' residence
Who that has ever beheld the woe-begone and
languid looks of thousands of our poor industrious
weavers wandering in a time of depression, (and that,
alas ! has been but too often the case within these
last twenty years) from warehouse to warehouse,
without receiving any work, or at the best, such as
would barely enable them to keep soul and body to
gether: who, let it be asked, has ever contemplated
the distressed situation of such, without casting
their eyes to the broad fields and boundless forests
of Canada, and the United States, where, if many
of these willing and able men were once set down,
they would at least be in no want of that sustenance
which, through whatever unfortunate combination
of circumstances, their own land seems to deny
them ? Let any one figure to himself a distressed,
spiritless, broken-hearted and famishing mechanic,
going unsuccessfully from place to place, to beg
" his brother man for leave to toil," as our im
mortal Burns feelingly expresses it, and, on the
other hand, imagine to himself that same poor fel
low (provided he is a single man) set down even
without a penny in his pocket in any civilised part
of America, if not the veriest sloth on the earth's
surface, he will find honest employment in some
shape or other; and although at once he does not
realise any of the golden day-dreams of far distant

IN THE UNITED STATES. 167
lands, which may have crossed his imagination at
home, yet a very short time will convince him,
that he has exchanged a state of starvation and
dependence to that of comfort and comparative
freedom ; comparative, I say, because, if a man's
ideas on this score extend to absolute unqualified
liberty in its simplest meaning, I suspect that he
must turn Indian, and roam the woods for game,
which profession (next to that' of being a gentle
man !) is the most unprofitable of any in America,
except in a few particular spots.
' It seems not to consist with the " fitness of
things," but that there must always exist more or
less of the feeling of dependence in the mind of
the employed towards his employer, although in
America there is perhaps less of this feeling actu
ally existing, than what is absolutely necessary
towards the speedy and efficient forwarding of va
rious branches of labour and manufacture. The
word master is hardly or never used in America
by servants or workmen of any description. Boss
is the emphatic, but apparently unmeaning, term
made use of upon all occasions.

168 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE

CHAPTER XII.
DELAWARE — TRENTON BRIDGE, RAPIDS, &C. — STEAM-BOATS ON DE
LAWARE — BURLINGTON — BRISTOL — SICKNESS AT DO. — APPEAR
ANCE OF BRISTOL AND SURROUNDING COUNTRY — INSECTS — FIRE
FLY — BIRDS — SNAKES.
The Delaware at Philadelphia is fully a mile wide,
and deep enough to float a ship of the line. Some
fine vessels have been built at the navy yard.
There is now one on the stocks of 150 guns ;
she is round in the stern. A fine 64 gun ship
was built in a private builder's ship yard in 1825,
for the Columbian government : she was not alto
gether twelve months on the stocks.
The Delaware is navigable for sloops to Trenton,
thirty-five miles above Philadelphia, and nearly
two hundred miles farther for large boats. At
Trenton, which is the capital of New Jersey, there
is a fine bridge over the river, built after the plan
of the lower one at Philadelphia. This town
is pleasantly situated, and there are several
large spinning and power weaving factories esta
blished in it. The view from the bridge, up the

IN THE UNITED STATES. 169
river, is very beautiful. For about one-half of a
mile upwards, the water runs very rapidly over a
bed of rocks, leaving only a very narrow and in
tricate winding channel for boats to pass. In de
scending these rapids, great care and attention is
indispensable in the steersman. Boats containing
sometimes four hundred barrels of flour pass al
most daily in safety. Accidents, however, occa
sionally take place. In returning, the boats are
often empty; but it requires great exertion and
patience to get them pushed against the stream.
The boats are very long and narrow. A man at
each side takes an oar, and commencing at the
head of the boat, with the oars pressing against the
ground, keeps pushing away until they come as far
as the middle of the boat, when they remain
steady, and two others perform the same opera
tion until they arrive close to their comrades.
They, in this manner, alternately relieve one ano
ther, untd they have gained their point. This ope
ration generally occupies several hours ; and puts
both their patience and metal to the proof; espe
cially as it has sometimes happened, that the hold
ers on have accidentally slipt their oars, which,
of course, sends the whole establishment down the
stream much more speedily than they can ever get
up. Some parts of the Delaware above this' are
p

11° SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
so deep, and the banks so very steep, that their
boat poles will not reach the bottom : in this case,
they keep close to the shore, and drag themselves
along, by taking'Jiold of the bushes which grow
on the bank.
Some of the steam-boats on the Delaware are
large, and elegantly fitted up. There is no dis
tinction between the cabin and steerage ; only the
fore-cabin is appropriated for smoking and drink
ing. In general, the passengers are civil and
conversable, but the system of having only one
price, and no separation betwixt cabin and steer
age passengers, although perfectly consistent with
American notions of liberty and equality, is not
altogether at times so very pleasant even to Ame
ricans of the more polished ranks. Although the
literally " base vulgar" usually keep in the fore
part of the boat, you will occasionally find a few
of them intrude themselves amongst the Nabob
part of the company, to the no small dissatisfac
tion of the fair sex especially. Considering the
attention that is paid to the comfort of the passen
gers in general, in American steam-boats, it is
very remarkable that neither books nor newspa
pers are to be found on board. Some of these
boats sail with great speed. I have been repeat
edly conveyed from Burlington to Philadelphia on

IN THE UNITED STATES. 171
board the steam-boat Trenton, a distance of twen
ty miles, in one hour and twenty-eight minutes.
This is an elegant vessel, and is very handsomely
fitted up : she has two boilers on a new construc
tion, one placed at each side of the deck, over
hanging the water, and built in such a manner,
that in case of bursting, their contents would be
completely thrown overboard. It may be remark
ed, that on board the American steam-boats, al
most the whole of the machinery appears working
above deck.
There seems to be something radically wrong
on board the majority of American steam-boats,
either in bad management, or in the imperfect
construction of the machinery. Not a season has
passed since these vessels have been brought into
operation, in which some disastrous accident has
not taken place, in some cases attended with the
loss of twenty or thirty lives. It is certainly owing
in a great measure to carelessness. The fare
from Philadelphia to Burlington is only twenty-
five cents (13Jd.)
Burlington, which was anciently the capital of
New Jersey, is situated on the Delaware, twen
ty miles above Philadelphia. It is a cleanly
town, with spacious streets, spreading over a large
tract of ground in proportion to its population.
2p

172 six years' residence
On the opposite, or Pennsylvania side, stands
the beautiful town of Bristol, which, at one time,'
was greatly resorted to, on account of its mineral
waters, and healthy situation.- It was, however,
very sickly in 1825, as I knew, by sad experience,
— my wife, our two little children, my sister, and
myself, being all sick at the same time ; some of
us having the typhus fever, and the rest the fever
and ague : finally, the servants, one after another,
were attacked .with the ague, and a more melan
choly assemblage of sick people could hardly be
found in one habitation. At this period, not one
single house in the borough of Bristol, including
a population of about fourteen hundred souls,
escaped death or sickness. The most dangerous
disease which raged was dysentery, which yearly
commits great ravages either amongst the old or
young inhabitants of America. Bristol, for about
twenty-seven years previous to this season, was
reckoned extremely healthy ; but amongst all these
diseases, even the yellow fever broke out, — a brig
which came up to this place having brought the
infection from St Domingo. About eight or ten
people fell victims to it ; but being in an open
country town, and people on their guard to avoid
the houses it broke out in, it at last died away as
the cool weather set in. Had the fever broke out

IN THE UNITED STATES. 173
in like manner in the crowded city of Philadel
phia, the consequences would have been terrible.
Fortunately, the whole of our family recovered
from the sickness of 1825 ; but some farm houses
within a mile of Bristol were almost swept clean
of their inmates, by the unrelenting hand of
death. The appearance of Bristol from the water is
quite delightful; many handsome houses, orna
mented with lofty porticos, being arranged along
the bank (which rises here considerably) for the
space of about half a mile. Like most of the
country towns in America, the streets are planted
on each side with fine shady trees. The clean
white painted houses, with green blinds, half hid
from view by the intervening foliage, present a
lively and cheerful aspect ; and unlike too many
of our Scotish villages, the streets are not dis
figured by abominable accumulations of filth.
A stranger, in passing through a country town
in America, whether riding or on foot, is not an
noyed with a score of dogs yelling at his heels, or
a colony of gaping children, and ill-bred bump
kins staring him out of countenance.
The Americans, either in town or country, are
extremely polite in pointing out the way to a tra
veller, and he need be under no apprehension of
p 3

174 six years' residence
receiving such saucy and rude answers as the in
habitants of some parts of our own country are too
much in the habit of giving.
The country around this place is very beautiful,
the orchards abounding in peaches, apples, plums,
and other fruits. The woods in summer are over
run with cherries, bramble-berries, huckle-berries,
(which are exactly like our blaeberries in Scot
land, but only the bushes are a little taller,) dew
berries, &c. Grapes of various kinds grow wild
in almost all the woods over America. Lately,
they have been successfully cultivated in some
parts of Pennsylvania, and excellent wine made
of them. In perambulating the woods and fields
of America, I have sometimes for a few moments
indulged myself in the idea, that I was in " puir
auld Scotia," until speedily, undeceived by the ap
pearance of the shrubs, flowers, and trees around
me, even the very appearance of " nature's car
pet" was manifestly different. I looked in vain for
the " lang yellow broom," the " bonny blooming
heather," the " sweet scented hawthorn," the " mo
dest wee gowan," the violet, the cowslip, and the
primrose, all of which are awanting in American
scenery. Their absence, however, is perhaps
more than compensated in the eye of any but a
Scotsman, by the luxuriant and magnificent ap-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 175
pearance of a variety of plants which adorn the
forests of America. . Being no botanist, I am at a
loss to describe these, only I recollect of seeing
wild geraniums of the height of four or. five feet in
the State of New York. In some parts of South
Carolina, the woods and fields are overrun with
jessamine and myrtle, the perfume of which is de
lightful ; and although, in many instances, the
flowers and shrubs of America have not the ex
quisite fragrance of European flowers, yet I think
that I never experienced any thing so deliciously
overpowering to the senses, as the evening breeze
wafted from a garden of orange trees in full blos
som in the environs of Charleston ; the well known
fragrance arising from a field of beans in full bloom,
after a shower of rain, has a pretty close resem
blance to the perfume of the orange blossom. A
person taking a walk in the country, who may feel
inclined to eat an apple, makes little scruple of
going over a fence, and helping himself, but there
are few who carry this point of equality to a very
great length ; at least, it is considered rather ill-
bred to go into a man's orchard near to his own
house. You may look long enough . around you
before you espy a board warning you that man
traps and spring-guns are set, or threatening you
with a prosecution for trespassing. ,

176 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
The most general crops are wheat, buck-wheat,
rye, Indian corn and clover, of which very heavy
crops are raised. Many of the fields are overrun
with garlic, which imparts a disagreeable flavour
to the flour, &c. Oats are raised in small quan
tities in the New England States, but have little
substance in them, the summer heat bringing them
up too quick. I have, however, tasted tolerably
good oat meal, which was raised in Vermont, and
I may mention by the way, that I never saw a com
mon reaping hook used in America, saving in Ver
mont. A few oats are sown in Carolina, to cut
for feeding cattle.
Vegetation proceeds with astonishing celerity in
America, owing to the continual heat both night
and day in summer; as an instance of which, I
may state, that I have partaken of good buck
wheat cakes made from the produce of grain,
which was sown only seven weeks and a few days
previously. Clover generally produces a luxuriant
Crop in Pennsylvania. An immense quantity of
seed is raised from this article. From a small
field containing two and a quarter acres, which I
rented, in the neighbourhood of Bristol, I cut
four tons of excellent hay at the first cutting, which
was at the latter end of May ; and about one-third
part as much in six weeks afterwards; after

IN THE UNITED STATES. 177
which, I turned out a cow to graze upon it. This
hay I sold at nine dollars, (40s. 6d.) per ton.
Two years previous to this, hay was so high
as thirty dollars per ton, (£6 15s.) which was
considered extravagant. In walking out to the
fields on a hot day, one would be led to ima
gine that the whole earth beneath his feet was
in motion ; the ground absolutely swarms, with in
sects of every description, particularly grasshoppers
and a small kind of locust. Throughout the whole
night there is an incessant noise and chirping,
caused by a variety of reptiles and insects, which
is sufficient to deprive a stranger of sleep until a
little accustomed to it, when it is not by any means
disagreeable, but rather serves to enliven the dull
monotony of the country. In this quarter of Ameri
ca, musquitoes are by no means very troublesome,
excepting near to a swamp, — they are at least not
considered so annoying as to require the use of
gauze curtains as in Carolina. At night, the spark
ling of the fire-fly forms an interesting object to
foreigners ; these insects are about the size of, and
have much the appearance of the common fly; the
luminous appearance is emitted, not from under the
wings of these insects, but rather from the abdo
men; they are much smaller than the fire-fly of the
West Indies.

178 six years' residence
After sunset, the noise of the bull frog is almost
deafening in some parts of the country. This reptile
well deserves the name bestowed upon it; in its
appearance it is very forbidding and sluggish in its
actions. I never saw any of this species larger
than about the size of a person's hands placed to
gether. An insect well known by the name of the
kitty-did, produces an incessant but cheerful
noise. In spring, great flocks of blackbirds visit Penn
sylvania; they are much more beautiful than
our blackbird, the upper part of the wings and
shoulders being of a rich crimson colour; but their
note is much inferior to that of the British species.
There are several varieties of the wood-pecker ;
and that delightful little creature the humming
bird, is very common in summer, darting like light
ning from flower to flower.
There are a considerable number of serpents
and snakes to be found, sometimes even in well
cultivated fields. I once killed a snake in my own
garden, of a species considered as dangerous as
the rattlesnake. I was sitting in a piazza in front
of my dwelling, in a glowing hot summer forenoon,
reading a newspaper, when a loud scream from the
garden attracted my attention. Before I could well
look round me, the hired girl, a fine strapping

IN THE UNITED STATES. 179
Pennsylvanian lass of nearly six feet, appeared be
fore me in a most woful panic, exclaiming, " Oh
mercy ! my ! my ! what shall I do Mr N. I've al
most trampled upon a copperhead, do for heaven's
sake go and kill it." I walked a few yards, and
peeping over the fence, saw a most beautiful varie
gated-looking snake, coiled up in three or four
folds with its head erected about six inches from
the ground, busily employed in thrusting out and
in its tongue or sting, I immediately laid hold of a
hatchet which was laying close by, and stretching
out my arm over the fence, let fall the axe upon
it, which instantly set it a twisting itself in fifty
directions ; I then went into the garden, and with
the assistance of a long stick threw it into the
public road, when some of my neighbours coming
past, told me very gravely that I must cut it into
seven pieces, and bury each in a separate hole. I
contented myself however by cutting it with the
axe, and made one hole serve for its grave. Ever
after this circumstance, I could not feel exactly
satisfied to lie down on any grass walk in the gar
den, and enjoy myself in reading as I used often
to do before this.
The viper is considered a dangerous animal.
I have killed them frequently in the woods with
a stick. There are also many black snakes, but

180 six years' residence
these are not venomous ; they kill their prey in
the same manner as the boa-constrictor. Acci
dents sometimes. happen to young cattle from those
of a large size. I never encountered any of these
of a larger size than five feet in length, but some
of them exhibited considerable " fight" with a dog
I had with me until shot. Black snakes of seven
or eight feet in length have been. seen in Pennsyl
vania, but these are very uncommon.
A gentleman who is a respectable storerkeeper
in New York, and whose word I had no reason
to doubt, informed me, that when he was a boy
of sixteen years of age, being on a visit to a
relation on the Katskill mountains, he one day
went out for the purpose of shooting rabbits and
squirrels ; having got as far as three or four miles
amongst the mountains, he unexpectedly encount
ered a large black snake. He immediately turned
round and attempted to make his escape down the
hill, pursued by the snake. He heard the sound
of its motion behind him, and exerted his utmost
speed, until at length being quite exhausted, he
turned round in despair and gave fire ; most for
tunately for him, the animal was mortally wounded,
and being afterwards measured, was found to be
eight feet and a half long, and nearly as thick as
a man's leg. Such an animal could easily crush

IN THE UNITED STATES. 181
any man to death ; if I may judge from the speci
men of smaller ones I have seen, their muscular
strength is very great.
Rattlesnakes are to be found in almost every
State of North America, but they generally fre
quent desolate and rocky regions. Children about
the country seem to have little dread of the com
mon kind of snakes, school boys frequently going
about in the woods without shoes, and they will
seize a small black snake by the tail and give it a
sudden jerk, which operation readily kills them.

182

SIX YEARS RESIDENCE

CHAPTER XIII.

COUNTRY JUSTICES, ATTORNEYS, AND DOCTORS — TYPHUS FEVER-
AGUE AND FEVER — NOTIONS OF EQUALITY — METHODISTS AND
CAMP MEETINGS — CLIMATE OF PENNSYLVANIA — DRINKING COLD
WATER — COUNTRY WORK DONE BY MEN— iMUSIC, &C. — LIBERTY
POLES — VISIT OF LA-FAYETTE.

In the country towns of America, there are generally
two or three justices of the peace, and an attorney
or two. These justices or judges, (in fact, they are
both judge and jury) as may well be imagined, are
not men who have much law at their finger ends.
In almost all cases they subsist chiefly by following
some mechanical trade, and not unfrequently the
dignity of village "Squire" is conjoined with the
more humble but probably as useful occupation of
carpenter or shoemaker. They most commonly
give a verdict in favour of the plaintiff. It is well
worth one's while to attend one of these courts.
Little reverence indeed is shown at times to the
bench or council, and the plaintiff and defendant
are sometimes at the point of a battle-royal before
the court door. The laws here give too much

IN THE UNITED STATES. 183
encouragement to petty suits, and the most trivial
occurrences give occasion to a prosecution. The
low pettifogging tricks practised by many of the
lawyers and justices, are only equalled by their
want of information and arrogance ; some of the
latter can hardly sign their name, and as for ortho
graphy, few of them know the meaning of the
word. To illustrate the matter, I may mention an oc
currence or two, which took place within the scope
of my own observation. My family having suffer
ed much from the ague, and receiving no relief
from the principal doctor in the village, I was in
formed by a neighbour, that a quaker doctor who
resided a few miles in the country, was much famed
for curing the ague, and made a rule of charging
nothing if unsuccessful ; in despair almost, I ap
plied to this infallible physician, but in case of
mistakes made an agreement, that he should not
charge me over five dollars even if successful. After
a few visits from this gentleman, I found matters
getting worse, as he evidently displayed the utmost
ignorance of his profession ; and the whole of his
secret seemed to consist in administering most un
conscionable doses of common charcoal to my wife,
who was his chief patient. Being apprehensive that
this mode of treatment would end in nothing good,
2 2

184 six ^ years' residence
I gave him as civil a hint as possible, that no more
of his medicine would be swallowed. A few days '
after this, without first demanding it, (but this
ceremony is often omitted in this law-encouraging
country,) he sent me an account through the hands
of a constable for fifteen dollars ; and this appen
dage of justice delivered me a summons at the same
time, to appear before the " Squire." Being well
aware that I would receive any thing but fair play
at such a court, (for I had observed previously,
that a verdict is almost invariably given against a
stranger, especially if he be defendant,) I took a
young lawyer along with me, and upon our enter
ing the court, found the justice with my friend the
doctor, each seated upon a chair with their legs
upon another, smoking most socially. The justice
having called the case, handed me a copy of the
account, and merely asked if the doctor had at
tended upon my family. Having assented to this,
he said, " Why, then, what is the use of saying any
more about it? I will enter judgment against you."
" Not so fast, friend, answered I," if you please; this
gentleman agreed to charge me a much less sum than
what is specified in his account, even if he had ful
filled his engagement, and I can bring you witnes
ses in a few minutes, who can bear ample testimony
to the truth of this. " No, no," said his honour, " I

IN THE UNITED STATES. 185
want no proof whatever, my mind was made up on
the subject yesterday." My friend the lawyer at
tempted to say a few words, but without effect.
Having left the office^ I said to the young attorney,
" And must I really be obliged to pay such an ex
orbitant charge with expenses to this rascally
quack, for a few ounces of charcoal. I would much
rather give it to the hospital in Philadelphia. Is
there no remedy ?" The young gentleman having
then mused a little, said, "Why I can easily put
you on a plan of at least keeping that fellow out of
the money for a few years ; I will enter an appeal
for you to the court at Doylestdn, (the capital of
the county,) and appear for you at the proper
time, as you mention that yon intend removing to
Carolina in winter, so you can just pay me the
money, and I guess it will cost him some trouble
to take it out of my fingers." No one can ap
preciate talents and honourable feeling in gentle
men of the profession of physic, more than myself;
and I do think, that they are truly deserving of a
fair and just recompence for their services; but to
suffer such imposition from a quack, merely be
cause I was a Scotsmans went against my con
science, so of two evils I chose what I deemed the
least, and paid over the amount to the young law
yer, leaving him and the infallible doctor to settle
2 3

186 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
the matter at their convenience. I am thus parti
cular on this subject, as it may serve to show how
matters are conducted here in law affairs.
, I recollect a circumstance which afforded me not
a little amusement. It was the case of a young man
of the village, who got " half seas over" one day,
and either through mischief or accident had shot
an honest woman's pig; she had him instantly ar
rested and brought before one of the justices. As
near as I can remember, the following colloquy
took place. The judge was a quaker and a me
chanic.
i Justice. Well, Jane, what hast thee to say against
neighbour Bill, here?
¦ Plaintiff. Say ! why I've too much to say about
the waggabone; would you believe it, the good-for-
nothing fellow has killed my pig, without no man
ner of provocation.
Justice. And did thee not want thy pig slain,
friend Jane?
Plaintiff. No, I guess my pig would have fed
five hundred weight come Christmas. I calculate
I had good feed for the poor thing; but that there
Bill, the low fellor, shot him. I guess he would be
none the worse of a good spanking with a clever
stick. Justice. Peace, Jane, peace, we shall find law for

IN THE UNITED STATES. 187
thee, we shall find law for thee, woman, I say ; but
be not violent against Bill. Why did thee slay
that pig of Jane's, Bill ?
Bill. Why, Squire, I expect that I was shooting
at a mark on the fence, when that dar'nt porker
poked his nose too near the mouth of my rifle, and
I being slewed a bit, I guess he was shot.
Justice. Why then, Bill, you must pay Jane the
price of the pig, and two dollars damages besides
the expense of court.
Bill. No, Sammy, no, 'nation sink me if I do
pay a cent of damages. I guess I must payjfor the
porker, but hang me, Sammy, if ever I take a
shoe from you in my life if you talk of damages. I
calculate I'll get them cheaper at all events from
John B.
Justice. Now, friend Jane, since Bill has confess
ed his mistake, you must let him pass this time
free of damages. I guess Bill will treat.
Bill. Why, Sammy, I vow that's clever. I'll treat,
I swear I will ; come over to Bill S  n's tavern,
and I calculate we'll have some good sling there,
and fix our matters.*
* It may perhaps not be out of place here, to explain a few
American terms, some of which occur in these pages, and are
not generally understood in Britain.
Slide. Quickly, smartly, instantly.
Slewed. Tipsy.

188 six years' residence
In the country there are some doctors who have
received a good education; but many of them know
Sling. Gin-toddy.
Clever. Good, smart, well dressed or handsome ; rich, when
applied to young ladies.
To fix- To adjust, settle, to clean, to mend.
Doos do it. Does it.
What say. Instead of Ma'am or Sir, when not properly un
derstood.
A Spanking. A good beating.
Vext. Angry, disappointed.
To Cascade. To Vomit.
Baas. Any kind of vegetables when eat with meat.
Long saas. Carrots, parsnips, beet.
Short saas. Turnips, potatoes, cranberries or apples, when
stewed with sugar are eat with any kind of butcher meat
or fowls, and called saas.
To Guess or Calculate. Signifies to surmise, to think.
Right away. Straitway, immediately.
Good feed. Good eatables.
Feed store. Marked above such shops as sell corn, &c. as
fodder for cattle.
To Pump or to be pumped, seems to be a punishment indigen
ous to America. When an individual has rendered himself
particularly obnoxious to the public, by espousing some very
unpopular system of politics, he is forcibly laid hold of, and
taken to one of the public pump wells, and held under the
spout, while some of the citizens pump water upon their vic
tim until in some cases he has almost expired. I would by
no means wish to rip up " old sores," but, at the same time,
I could cite various instances which occurred during the
lafe American war, when some of my countrymen were
most inhumanly treated by the mob, merely on account of
their being Scotsmen, and not perhaps altogether prudent
in publicly avowing their principles in political affairs.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 189
very little of Anatomy, Chemistry, or Botany, and
some of them are mere empirics. They however do not
cause near so much mischief as might be supposed,
confining their " methodus medendi" to the most
simple medicines. Some of these practitioners al
ways carry about a small assortment of drugs with
them in their waggon or gig, and this is of consid
erable . advantage to the country people in some
parts, who are at a distance from any apothecary.
Upon the whole, illiterate as many of these doctors
are, still they are a benefit to the country in gene
ral. The diseases most common here, are inter
mittent fevers and ague ; the great panacea for
which seems to be peruvian barks with occasional
doses of calomel, which .is given in very large
quantities. A dangerous fever prevailed in 1825,
of which I had an opportunity of observing the
treatment of some cases. This typhusTever, as it
was denominated, differed materially from the
typhus fever of Glasgow. The patient in general,
at the commencement of the attack, was seized
with incessant bilious vomiting, succeeded by great
prostration of strength, accompanied with a slow
and feeble pulse, the heat of the skin being about
108 to 110. In one particular instance, after three
or four days of almost continued vomiting, the pa
tient received, for five or six days, repeated doses

190 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
of calomel and jalap, forty grains of calomel were
given at one dose more than once ; a large blister
was then applied to the back of the neck. At this
period the patient was almost unconscious of any
thing, his eyesight and sense of hearing being for
several days almost utterly gone. About the 12th
or 13th day, an evident alteration for the better
having taken place, the doctor then told the pa
tient, he must now commence the recruiting system ;
and accordingly ordered him to take every morn
ing, a large bowl of milk fresh from the cow, mix
ed with nearly a gill of brandy and some sugar,
and the same repeated in the evening, which gene
rally induced sleep. This mixture is called milk
punch. Port .wine and porter, with soup, &c. as
often as the patient [felt inclined, completed the
treatment in this case.
The fever and ague prevail every season in a
lesser or greater degree throughout the whole of
the low country in America.
There are many ponds which spread over a
large space" of land in winter, and the water re
ceding in summer, leaves a large portion of mud
and vegetable matter, which speedily putrifies, and
saturates the atmosphere with unwholesome va
pour. An almost insufferable stench is felt in pass
ing these ponds in very hot weather. Until the

IN THE UNITED STATES. 191
country is completely under cultivation, and the
whole of these ponds drained, the ague will con
tinue to prevail in spite of every precaution. This
disease being very common, and but seldom prov
ing fatal, is not much dreaded by many of the
country people. Some of them regard it with
seeming indifference, frequently returning for an
swer to an inquiry regarding their health, " Oh !
pretty tolerably well upon an average ; only • a
touch of the ague once in a while." Some people
who have been subject to this complaint periodi-.
cally, are aware of the particular days on which
they expect an attack, and prepare accordingly.
The sulphate of quinine} a newly invented and
very expensive medicine, has lately been intro
duced with seeming effect. The price of this me
dicine on its first appearance in America, was four
hundred dollars (^90) per pound. I knew many
cases, where a dose of this medicine taken every
tenth day, completely protected the patient from
an attack; but if through inadvertence, the medi
cine was not taken on the critical day, the patient
was sure'to have a very violent attack. This dis
ease is a complete scourge in many places of Ame
rica ; it greatly undermines the constitution, and
lays the way open for other diseases. I have seen
a whole family afflicted with it, from the infant of

192 six years' residence
three months old to the sage of three score and
ten. Some of the country doctors pretend to cure
it by charms; and I have seen many a person who
had, by their direction, gone alone to a certain
tree, tied a cord to it, and going round it several
times, repeating certain cabalistical words, return
ed home sound, (as they assured me,) not, how
ever, without communicating their disease to the
tree, which never flourished afterwards. In this
respect, as well as in the affairs of spectres, the
country people are very superstitious ; and even
in the enlightened city of New York, large houses
have been pointed out to me as being tenantless,
on account of being haunted, although offered at
little or no rent.
A great number of the people in Pennsylvania
being quakers, their manners are consequently
quite primitive ; some of those, who can even af
ford to keep a carriage, breakfasting and dining in
the same apartment with their servants when with
out company. This system of liberty is sometimes
carried to a most preposterous length. I have al
ready mentioned, that manufacturers here generally
board a number of their workmen in their houses,
and as the custom is for them to sit at the same ta
ble with their employer, I felt somewhat inclined in
my own case to dispense with this part of equali-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 193
ty. As an instance, however, of the general feel
ing in this country on the subject, I may mention,
that one evening as my family were sitting at tea
with the clergyman of the place, and a few friends
in company, an Irishman, whom I had employed
for some time, and who lodged with me, came
" right" into the parlour, and going over to the
sideboard, lifted a large decanter of spirits, and
walked out, saying he wished to treat a boy or two
who were in the kitchen ! Sometime afterwards,
this same fellow (and he was rather what the peo
ple in America would call a little bashful) left me
at a day's warning, merely " bekase," as he said,
" I had scoulded him before the ladies one day on
account of some mistake." These ladies were
neither more nor less than two " hired girls" who
were washing in the kitchen that day.
Another instance of the general prevalence of ideas
of equality may be quoted. You may often observe
on board of a steam-boat, for example, a respect
able looking personage smoking his cigar on deck,
when perhaps some common fellow, such as Paul
Pry would call a " rum customer," will approach
this aforesaid smoking gentleman, and ask a light.
I do not recollect of ever having seen this refused.
The most genteel way to accommodate the person
age in want of " fire," as they term it, is to hand
R

194 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
him the lighted cigar ; but I have oftener observed,
that the person smoking will allow the other to
apply the end of his cigar to the ignited part of
his own, and then, by a mutual simultaneous puff
or two on both sides, the desired object is effected.
In many of the houses, the kitchen, in winter,
is most usually converted into the dining-room,
being warm and comfortable, and the floor cover
ed with what are called rag-carpets. These are
manufactured in the following economical and sim
ple manner : all the old rags about house are care
fully laid aside by the American " gude wives,"
and sewed together in stripes, so as to make weft,
or filling for a warp of hemp.
In general, the people are civil to strangers,
and in case of sickness, evince a good deal of
warm-heartedness. The Quakers, like other denominations of
Christians, attend meeting regularly, but the re
mainder of the day is not very scrupulously at
tended to, being considered partly as a day of re
creation. Methodists are to be found every where in
America, and are greatly on the increase. Their
preachers, although not men of polish or learning,
are generally well-meaning citizens, and are ex
tremely desirous of making converts. This sect

IN THE UNITED STATES. 195
have certainly done great things, especially in the
western country, where the Sabbath is little re
garded, the day being mostly spent in shooting,
and other amusements.
The Methodist camp meetings, which are held
in various parts of the country every year9 are
scenes of quite a novel nature to a stranger. Some
times as many as ten thousand people assemble in
the woods, from all parts of the country, accom
panied with chaises, waggons, &c. Tents, and
every requisite accommodation, are to be had on
the spot, and sometimes these holy fairs (for they
are, in some respects, little else) last for six or
seven days.
Perhaps four or five preachers address different
parts of the multitude at the same time, and these
are relieved incessantly, night and day, until the
meeting breaks up. As many persons go to these
meetings out of mere amusement, some very cu
rious scenes occur as a matter of course ; but con
sidering the numbers assembled, much decency is
preserved, lamps being kept burning during the
night. These assemblies never break up without some
wonderful instances of conversion. Sometimes the
most obdurate and stubborn are suddenly seized
with fits of enthusiasm, and fall down in a state of
r 2

196 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
insensibility, in which they not unfrequently con
tinue for two or three hours, awakening as new
creatures. Those who are thus seized with con
viction, and they consist of all ages and sexes, are
immediately thrown aside into a sort of pen, or
inclosure, where they remain until their conversion
is completed, it being considered as striving with
the spirit, to use any endeavours to rouse them
out of this trance. It must be confessed, that
some of these preachers are powerfully eloquent,
especially in depicting the horrible state of the
wicked, not unfrequently pointing out individuals
in the crowd, whom the prince of darkness has
got fast hold of. I have known instances of some
hardened obstinate sinners who went to these meet
ings out of pure defiance to the preacher, and
who, after fortifying themselves with a due quan
tum of grog, and in the firm determination of
maintaining their ground against the artillery of
the speaker, have actually either been so much
convicted or appalled by the horrible dilemma in
which the preacher described them as standing in,
that although otherwise stalwart fellows, who
could have marched undismayed to the cannon's
mouth, they were fairly discomfited ; but no won
der, when the'preacher will occasionally point out,
with the most determined composure, (surely this

IN THE UNITED STATES. 197
savours something of personality,) individuals who
are damned to all intents and purposes.
In Pennsylvania the heat is sometimes very op
pressive in summer. In Scotland, after a hot day,
the night is always comparatively cool, there being
few nights in the year in which the thermometer
stands above 60; and from many years' observa
tions, it has never been so high as 70 during the
whole night. At Philadelphia, in July, 1825, the
thermometer averaged 92 at two o'clock, P. M. in
a cool situation in the shade, in Chesnut Street,
during the whole month. On two or three differ
ent days it was as high as 102. In the sun the
thermometer stood at 136 to 140, several times
during this month. The lowest point to which the
mercury fell in the night time was 88. Such ex
cessive heat is very oppressive, and prevents the
possibility of refreshing sleep. The musquitoes
also at such times are exceedingly troublesome.
I have often remarked, that in Scotland the heat
feels more oppressive with the thermometer at 75,
than when it stands at 85 in America ; and in South
Carolina, in a certain state of the atmosphere, I
have felt the air quite cool, and even the sensation
of cold, with the thermometer at 78 ! I have heard
many make the same remark. It is generally ima-
r 3

198 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
gined, that the constitution of a stranger undergoes
a change after residing some time in America.
In the summer of 1825, a great many accidents
occurred, especially in New York and Philadel
phia, in consequence of the incautious drinking of
cold water. There are always printed notices put
up on the pumps, warning the inhabitants in regard
to the bad effects produced by drinking cold water
while in a state of perspiration ; but these notices
are little attended to by the working people in gen
eral, who are the most likely to suffer from its ef
fects. I have seen a drayman stop his horse, on a '
broiling hot day, go over to the pump, (which he
set agoing with one hand,) and apply his mouth to
the spout. In 1825, the deaths occasioned in New
York, in one week, from this cause, were above
twenty. A considerable quantity of ice is used
here in summer. There is hardly even a farmer
in the country but must have his ice house. In
Philadelphia, families may be regularly supplied
every morning with this almost indispensable arti
cle, at so low a rate as about one cent a pound.
In Charleston, (South Carolina,) where it must be
imported from the Northern States, the price is
from four to six cents, (2d. to 3d.) per lb. A
great quantity of it is used, however, there. It is

IN THE UNITED STATES. 199
frequently sent two hundred miles up the country,
rolled up in heavy English blankets !
In the country, the whole of the out-door work
is performed by men. It may be safely affirmed,
that more deference is paid to the female sex in
America, than in any country of Europe. A New
York drayman, for instance, before going to his
work in the morning, will carry the water, cleave
the wood, and perform other . items of domestic
drudgery, which in most countries generally falls
to the share of the wife. There is no such thing
to be seen in the country, as a woman working in
the fields. I have seen one Scotish farmer in Ver
mont, who made his daughters occasionally work
out; but this was matter of speculation amongst
his neighbours. The harvest fields in America are
consequently not enlivened by the presence of the
fair sex. This may partly account for the want of
pastoral poetry amongst the Americans. There is
but little singing or music to be heard in the coun
try, excepting in some houses the almost incessant
hum of Methodist tunes, which are often applied
indiscriminately to poetry, whether sacred or pro
fane. Regarding music in America, there are few tunes
that may be called national. The chief of these
are, " Hail Columbia," " Washington's March,"

200 six years' residence
and " Yankee Doodle ;" the last of which was
composed by the chaplain of a British regiment
before the Revolution. Scotish tunes are very
much in fashion ; and I may here mention, that
our immortal Burns, Ramsay, and Fergusson, are
greatly admired in all the States of America. There
are some tunes, however, which it would not be
safe to play. I recollect of a young Scotsman,
one evening in New York, having offered a street
musician (a rare thing here) half a dollar to play
" God save the King," or " Rule Britannia ;" but
the poor fiddler might have as soon attempted to
pull down a liberty-pole.* In such matters as
these, the Americans are exceedingly illiberal and
puerile. They would wish to engross the hobby
horse, liberty, to themselves alone. Strangers
ought, however, from motives of policy, if not of
politeness, to be guarded in their expressions and
conduct — at least if they expect to get along quiet
ly. The Americans are vastly tender on national
points ; and such expressions, on political subjects,
* These are immense long poles, sixty or seventy feet in
length, erected at the corner of many streets in New York.
They are generally surmounted with a large cap of liberty gilt,
and other ornaments. I presume they have been erected as a
memento to the citizens, in case they should lose sight of their
independence.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 201
as an American might use in Britain, without at
all being taken notice of, could not be uttered in
America by a British subject with impunity. I
once heard a Scotsman, who was sorely beset by
half a dozen of Yankees, ask them in a passion, to
draw off their stockings, that he might see the
mark of their chains ! The most prudent path for
foreigners to take, where they cannot discuss poli
tics on equal terms, is to avoid them altogether.
It is perhaps ill bred to take up the cudgels to the
Americans in their own house ; but an American,
who might be rather bold or imprudent in giving
his sentiments in Britain, would merely be laughed
at. In 1824 the French Marquess, La Fayette, paid
a visit to America. This gentleman, who had as
sisted the Americans in effecting their revolution,
was received with great enthusiasm in every part
of the country : he certainly merits the gratitude
of the Americans in a very eminent degree. When
but a young man of twenty, recently married to a
beautiful and amiable woman, and possessing eve
ry enjoyment which wealth or rank could bestow,
this Frenchman was seized with an irresistible im
pulse to devote his life and fortune to the cause of
freedom in America. In opposition even to the
command of his monarch, he hired a vessel at his

202 six years' residence
own expense, and forthwith proceeded to America,
where he was well received. He took out a con
siderable quantity of ammunition and clothing
with him, which was very acceptable at that pe
riod to the Revolutionists. He was soon after
wards created an American General, and signaliz
ed himself in several actions, and was certainly of
great service to the cause of liberty in more ways
than one. A great friendship subsisted betwixt
him and General Washington, who treated him as
a son. Having remained in America as long as
the cause required his exertions, he returned
home. In every part of the country which he visited in
1824, he was entertained in a manner which
exhibited the enthusiasm of the people in a
great degree ; all ranks and ages seemed to pour
forth the homage of gratitude and respect to this
truly disinterested man. In Philadelphia, tri
umphal arches, erected at an immense expense,
were thrown across the principal streets, through
which he passed; and even in the small towns
through which his way lay, the kindly feelings of
the people were most unequivocally expressed.
The General is quite an affable gentleman, and
behaved to the great satisfaction of all ranks.
On his way to Philadelphia from New York, he

IN THE UNITED STATES. 203
remained in Bristol a short time, and took dinner :
the carriage in which he rode was a most elegant
vehicle, drawn by four beautiful cream-coloured
horses ; it belonged to a man of fortune in New
York, who voluntarily offered it for the General's
convenience : it certainly was a very fine equipage
upon the whole, but even in this article it would
have been strange had the natives let the matter
pass without some allusions (innocently enough
spoken, I believe) to the old country. I could
not help smiling, when a good-natured looking
Yeoman, who formed a part of the General's
escort, came up to me as I was looking at the car
riage, and said, " I expect, Sir, that your great
king George's coach does not outshine that there
one, a bit." A young woman who was staring in
at a window, to catch a glimpse of La Fayette, ex
claimed in my hearing, " Oh, my ! my ! why, that
great General eats bread hke other people."
It may be observed, that La Fayette was com
mander-in-chief of the National Guards, in France,
at the time of the Revolution, and conducted him
self at that awful crisis with great moderation and
humanity. His visit to America served the editors of news
papers, for several months, with ample grounds
for eulogizing this truly great man. This was all

204 six years' residence
very well, and proper; but their main object seem
ed to be, to hold forth to the world the disinter
ested gratitude, and boundless generosity, exhibit
ed by the republicans of America, towards their
former benefactor ; and especially the magnificent
liberality of their government, in nobly voting the
General a. present of 200,000 dollars (£45,000), in
money, and a whole township of land (about
20,000 acres) in one of the back States, as a token
cf their gratitude and esteem, and finally in send
ing him home to France in one of their new
frigates. The papers were crammed, day after day, with
high-flown encomiums on the unheard of genero
sity and munificence of the government, when, if
the plain and simple truth had been spoken, they
were only paying back a part of their old debt.
Mr Jonathan took good care to conceal the fact
that General La Fayette, independent of his per
sonal services, laid out about 700,000 francs during
the revolutionary contest for his behoof, which,
with simple interest, amounts now to upwards of
400,000 dollars, so that in place of lauding their
unbounded generosity to the heavens, they were
merely paying a dividend upon an old debt. The
Americans are too much in the habit of endeavour
ing to drag, forth from all around them a greater

IN THE UNITED STATES. 205
share of applause than they have a right to expect,
the consequence of which is, that people are rather
apt to withhold from them that approbation which
their actions in many cases most undoubtedly en
title them to. Upon this La Fayette subject, many
of their editors could dwell on nothing else for
sometime, extolling the gratitude of Republics,
and defying the whole world to show such an
example of disinterestedness and munificence.
" What must have been the General's feelings,"
said they, " when the shouts of twelve millions of
freemen rung in his ears ? what delightful emo
tions must have pervaded the breast of the vener
able warrior, when he looked every where around
him, and beheld a whole nation in the full enjoy
ment of freedom and happiness ?" Fine words
these, no doubt, to people at a distance, who know
no better regarding the state of matters in Ameri
ca ; but let any man of common feeling take a trip
to Charleston, and walk to the Exchange, or the
Vendue Range, and he may see, as I have often
done, an hundred and fifty poor negroes at the
hammer; ask at them whether they are revelling
in liberty, — but more of this anon.
I could not help laughing oftentimes at the idea
of these twelve million freemen of the editors' crea
tion, as this number includes fully the whole mass
s

206 six years' residence
of the population of America, taking into account
eighteen hundred thousand poor black slaves !
God knows whether they felt much interested in
the La Fayette affair or not. But mayhap I am
dwelling too much upon a sore point with my old
friends the Americans, for such I really do consider
many of them. They will, however, I am certain,
should these desultory ideas ever meet the eye of
any of my former- acquaintances, do me the justice,
I doubt not, of discharging me from the charge of
hypocrisy. I am quite conscious that I have stated
nothing in this place which I would have flinched
from in America, nor which I will be ashamed to
avow should I ever again set my foot on the shore
of Columbia,

IN THE UNITED STATES. 207

CHAPTER XIV.
CONSTITUTION OF UNITED STATES — PRESIDENT, &C — GEORGE
WASHINGTON — ADAMS AND JEFFERSON — 4TH OF JULY — ARMY
— NEW ORLEANS — JACKSON, &C — REVENUE — CITY TAXES —
POPULATION. i
The Constitution of the United States is well
known to most people in Britain, and has been so
often commented upon that there is but little left
to say on the subject.
The office of President has been compared with
that of the King of Great Britain, and in some par
ticulars this is pretty much the case. He is however,
in all matters of importance, completely under the
power of the Senate ; he must have the sanction of
two-thirds of that body to perform any matter of
consequence, and the Senate are eventually wholly
controlled by the voice of the people. It is out of
the question, for either a President or a minister
of state to attempt forming a party to suit their
own purposes, either in the Senate or the House
of Representatives, for the members of both houses
are continually changing their places for new ones.
s 2

208 six years' residence
There is one thing certain, however, which results
from this system, and that is, that there can be in
either house of the legislature, but few individuals
who can have acquired much experience in govern
ment matters ; there may perhaps be some disad
vantage in this, public business being conduct
ed occasionally in rather a slovenly and dilatory
manner, but it is a great enemy to corruption ;
every part and portion of the country have their
turn in being represented, and if each member, (as
is really the case,) seems to have the interest of his
own constituents more at heart than the general
good of the country, still an equal chance is given
to all eventually.
The Senate, which is analogous to our House of
Lords, is composed of two members from each
State ; in the union, whatever the population of
that State may be. The House of Representatives,
which is much the same as our House of Com
mons, consists of one member from each 40,000
inhabitants of the respective States, so that the
number of members in this body is yearly increas
ing. The Representatives are voted by ballot,
and I cannot say that ever I saw much commotion
in any part where I resided, during an election,
excepting a few tavern brawls. The system of
universal suffrage in America, at least so far as I

IN THE UNITED STATES. 209
have seen it, is not so replete with anarchy and dis
order as has been sometimes represented.
The members of Congress receive eight dollars
each, per day, while upon duty, and a competent
allowance for travelling expenses. It has been
hinted pretty often, that many of their debates are
lengthened on account of this emolument; the
author of Knickerbocker, I think, asserts that they
will dispute for days upon the propriety of voting
their President a pair of breeches.
The President, who continues in office for four
years, may be re-elected at the expiration of that
term, but not a third time, until he has been out of
office for eight years. The salary allowed to this
officer is twenty-five thousand dollars (^5,625)
per annum, which is certainly by far too little, con
sidering the state and dignity which the President
requires to keep up. The Americans are well
aware of this, but seem afraid that an increase of
salary would make this office too much an object
of interest.
As yet, it has been a very unprofitable office to-
any who have held it ; and, excepting Washington,
they have generally retired deeply in debt, and one
of them, in his old age, was under the necessity of
having recourse to the generosity of his country
men, by making a lottery of his estate. It can re-
s 3

210 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
fleet but little honour on a nation, to suffer their
most worthy and faithful servants to die in poverty
above the age of fourscore, in daily horror of being
arrested ; this however was literally the case with
Mr Jefferson in 1826. The saving of a paltry sum
by a nation, too, which can be so ostentatiously
generous to foreigners occasionally, is hardly to be
put in competition with the disgrace and contempt
which such conduct incurs from surroundingnations.
The salary of President ought certainly, at all
events, to be sufficiently ample to enable him to
defray the expenses inevitably incurred by the dis
charge of his office, in a style befitting a gentleman.
The country can well afford it, and it would save
many a severe but just taunt from foreigners. If
the salary of President should be so low as to make
it no object of avarice, it certainly ought to be as
much as would prevent the person holding it from
incurring debt. Twenty-five thousand dollars is
making a mock of the matter, when it is consider
ed that the office of mayor in some of the large
cities is about half as lucrative.
The office of Vice-President is considered as of
comparatively little consequence. The salary is
five-thousand dollars (^1125).
I cannot avoid in this place, saying a few words
in regard to that most disinterested, brave, and

IN THE UNITED STATES. 211
truly virtuous man, George Washington, who is
most deservedly' styled the Father of his Country ;
to say that he was truly a second William Wal
lace, is sufficient to stamp his character with every
Scotsman ; for my own part, I am unable to pay
his memory a higher compliment, than by making
this comparison.
The exertions of this distinguished patriot, in
the cause of liberty, were truly disinterested; his
time and talents were entirely devoted to effect the
freedom of his countrymen, and that without the
most distant hope of reward, except what arose in
his own bosom from a conviction of having per
formed his duty, and the unanimous approbation
of his countrymen. He kept an exact account of
what money he expended, while commander-in-
chief of the American army, and at the conclusion
of the war, accepted of this sum alone^ without de
manding any thing for his great and unwearied ser
vices. The greatest and the most upright of men, in
every age and country, have had their enemies.
Washington appears to have had none. I cannot
remember a single instance of having heard the
smallest allusion to his disadvantage, from any per
son in America, of whatever rank. His memory is
indeed idolised, and I think it is very doubtful if

212 six years' residence
ever an American, in his sound senses, has spoken
of Washington but in terms of admiration. This
great man died in December, 1799, in the 68th
year of his age. He fulfilled the office of Presi
dent for nearly eight years, with credit to himself,
and was the first person elected to that office, after
the establishment of the present form of govern
ment in 1789. The following is a list of those who
have been elected to this important office : —
1st. George Washington, in the year 1789.
Do. again 1793.
2d. John Adams, 1797.
3d. Thomas Jefferson, 1801.
Do- again 1805.
4th. James Madison, 1809.
Do. again 1813.
5th. James Monroe, 1817.
Do. again 1821.
6th. John Quincy Adams, (son of
John Adams,) 1825.
7th. Andrew Jackson 1829.
It may be remarked as a somewhat singular
coincidence, that Presidents John Adams and
Thomas Jefferson both died on the 4th of July,
1826, that very day fifty years on which they had
signed the celebrated declaration of Independence.
This important paper was drawn up by Jefferson,

IN THE UNITED STATES. 213
and its merits were advocated by Adams, to their,
at that crisis, somewhat hesitating countrymen.
Both of these illustrious veterans felt their latter end
approaching for some time prior to their dissolution,
and both of them expressed a most earnest wish to
live just until the approaching anniversary : their
wish was granted. On the morning of the day on
which he departed, old Adams, hearing the firing
of cannon, inquired the cause, and being remind
ed that the 4th of July had arrived, raised himself
a little in his bed, feebly exclaiming, " Oh ! it is a
most glorious day," and shortly after expired. He
was in the ninety- first year of his age: Mr Jeffer
son was eighty-four.
The declaration of independence was signed by
above forty individuals, all of whom have paid the
debt of nature, excepting Charles Carroll of Bal
timore, who is still alive. He is aged above ninety,
and is, I think, grandfather to the present Mar
chioness of Welles! ey.
It has often been remarked, that the greater
part of those who signed this eventful paper, have
lived to be old men. A considerable number of
them died between seventy and eighty years of
age: several from eighty to ninety, and a few
above ninety.
The anniversary of the declaration of indepen-

214 six years' residence
dence (the 4th of July) is celebrated throughout
America with every demonstration of delight. It
is not, apparently, a local or an individual feeling,
but seems alike to pervade the breasts of all ranks
and ages ; all feel deeply interested in testifying
their joy, and the Genius of Liberty seems to look
down with complacency upon an enthusiastic and
delighted nation. The dawn of this national ju
bilee is ushered in by the firing of cannon, which
are generally served by some of the few yet sur
viving veterans of the revolution. It is almost im
possible to gaze upon these venerable men, with
out a feeling of deep respect and admiration. Each
returning anniversary of their liberty seems to in
vigorate their frames with youthful energy ; and
their age-bedimmed eyes sparkle with the fire of
" the days of other years." In a few years, how
ever, at most, these venerable remnants of a gene
ration that scorned the gift of existence without
liberty, will descend to the land of forgetfulness.
The American government have certainly exhi
bited to the world the interesting fact, that a great
nation may be ruled in peace and happiness, with
out an overwhelming standing army. The utmost
extent by law of the regular army of the United
States, should not exceed five thousand men : at
present (1829) it is 5,529, who are distributed in

IN THE UNITED STATES. 215
forts and garrisons alongst a frontier of more than
5000 miles, many of which are literally in the
midst of a wilderness, inhabited by savages, or
white men scarcely less savage. Still, however,
with a few occasional skirmishes in the back coun
try, America, as a whole, presents a beautiful pic
ture of contentment and peace. Even in some of
their large cities, there are not above fifty regulars
stationed ; yet they contrive to keep down mobs
and riots by the police ; or if military assistance
must be had recourse to, the militia instantly turn
out. The Americans fought well during last war, be
yond all doubt, especially near Canada, where
some of their engagements with our troops were
of much greater extent than is generally known in
Britain. By their account, at Chippeway, on 5th
July, 1814, the British had 143 killed, 329 wound
ed, and 46 missing, while the Americans lost 60
killed, 229 wounded, and 19 missing; and at the
falls of Niagara, on the 25th of the same month,
the British loss was 84 killed, 559 wounded, and
183 missing, while the loss on the American side
was 171 killed, 572 wounded, and 117 missing.
Their great boast is the affair of New Orleans,
in which, however, they admit, that their success
was in a great measure owing to fortuitous circum-

216 six years' residence
stances — namely, the ill laid schemes of the British
commander, the swamps through which the Bri
tish army had to pass, and, lastly, their own ad
vantageous position behind a rampart of cotton
bales, where they could take deliberate aim in per
fect security. The American account of this bu
siness makes the loss of the British to amount to
three thousand and upwards ; while their own loss
in killed and wounded was only forty-three.
General Jackson, who stands so high in the eyes
of the people, that he was within an ace of being
elected President in 1825, (indeed, he had clearly
the voice of the people in his election, although
the house of representatives decided in favour of
Adams) conducted the defence of New Orleans
with great ability. He is most unquestionably a
man of courage, and possesses great decision of
spirit. He laid the city of New Orleans under
military law, for which he was afterwards (al
though they acknowledge it was to his prompt
measures they owed their safety) censured by the
civil powers, and fined in one thousand dollars,
which he instantly paid. By way of making him
amends, they have since erected a monument in
commemoration of his prowess, at an expense of
fifty thousand dollars. I have heard an anecdote
of the general at this period, which is quite char-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 217
racteristic. Part of the ramparts thrown up in de
fence of New Orleans upon this occasion, con
sisted of cotton bales : of course, there was no dis
crimination used in selecting one man's propertyr
more than that of another ; but a French merchant,
whose store was cleared of its contents, imagined
such liberty too much of a good thing. He ac
cordingly came down to the spot where the sol
diers were piling up his cotton as a defence against
the British artillery, and luckily, as he thought,
fell in with General Jackson, to whom he imme
diately addressed himself, saying, " Generate, it is
too bad of your men to take my cottone ; I must 'ave
it taken care of." Jackson asked him very quietly
if he was quite sure of his own property being be
fore him ; the merchant instantly replied, " Begar !
I know my own cottone ver well : I know all de
marks well." The general then coolly turned
round to some of his attendants, telling them to
hand the Frenchman a musket. This being speed
ily performed, he said, " Now, my good friend,
you are the most proper person I know of to de
fend your own property ; stir from this spot at
your peril."
Jackson has been accused of treachery and
cruelty in his wars with the Indians. It is said,
that on one occasion, he ordered the British flag
T

218 six years' residence
to be hoisted on board a vessel for the purpose of
inducing an Indian chief, who was an ally of the
British, to come on board, which stratagem hav
ing taken effect, he instantly caused the unsuspi
cious Indian to be hung up ! These Indian wars
are generally conducted on both sides much more
by stratagem than by fair fighting.
When I was in Charleston in 1818, he was
much blamed even by many Americans, for caus
ing two British officers (Arbuthnot and Ambrister)
to be executed in Georgia ; but these, it was said,
were taken as spies, and had it been otherwise,
certainly the British government would have taken
some notice of the matter.
Jackson was born in Tennessee, of Irish parents,
about the year ) 768.
I once happened to meet with a tall, decent
looking personage on board of a steam-boat, whom,
after some conversation, I discovered to have acted
as chaplain to General Jackson. He gave a high
character of the latter ; but allowed that he was
very severe in his discipline ; and much need there
was of his being strict, as many of his men were
but half civilized, and could brook almost nothing
like regularity. In their campaigns against the
Indians, they had to undergo great privations and
fatigue, frequently being for days almost without a

IN THE UNITED STATES. 219
morsel. "Jackson had much ado," he said, " to
prevent them from returning home on several occa
sions." I asked this gentleman whether he read
prayers and preached to the soldiers regularly? He
replied, " Oh, pretty much so ; but my principal
duty consisted in acting as conciliator ; going from
tent to tent amongst the soldiers, endeavouring to
reconcile them to existing circumstances, and keep
them on good terms with their general."
At one time, a whole regiment turned out and
insisted on returning home ; Jackson rode to the
front, and pulling out a large horse pistol, swore
that he would shoot the first man who should dare
to move one step. This firmness and determina
tion had the desired effect.
I said, " No doubt you must have seen some
hard fighting with the Indians ?" " Yes ;" an
swered he, " by  " (not any thing very bad,
however) " we did fight the Indians, and whipt
them too." " But as a clergyman," said I, " you
surely took no share in actual combat ?" " Why,
Sir," replied he, " at the battle of the Horse Shoe
I fought for about eight hours, and had to get
a fresh musket several times, the one I used
getting so hot in my hand. I guess we fixed more
than six hundred Indians that day." This reve
rend gentleman described the horrible looks and
t 2

220 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
yells of the Indians during an engagement as being
quite appalling, and nothing but the strictest disci
pline and coolness could withstand it.
The revenue of the United States consists prin
cipally of the duties levied upon the importation
of foreign merchandise, and money arising from
the sale of public lands, — the whole amount as
stated below being about 25,000,000 dollars, or
^5,625,000 sterling. Since the peace of 1815,
the government has been annually appropriating a
considerable sum to the reduction of the national
debt, which is now under seventy millions of dol
lars. At the rate it is being annually reduced, it
will soon be altogether expunged ; and in that
case, the government will be at a loss what to do
with the revenue, for should they reduce the
duty on imports greatly, domestic manufactures
will proportionally suffer. Such a state of finances
is certainly to be envied by some nations.
By raising a handsome sum on the duties arising
from the importation of foreign goods, the American
government have acted with great wisdom ; as at
the same time, that domestic manufactures are en
couraged, a belief is entertained by many of the
mobocracy, that it is British subjects or merchants
who are thus paying their taxes ! never consider
ing that the consumer must ultimately be the suf-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 221
ferer. At all events, it would be no easy matter
to raise such sums in America by excise duties.
During the war, a stamp duty, and window-light
duties which were imposed upon the citizens, ex
cited considerable discontent.
The following is a statement of the revenue and
expenditure for an average of three years, ending
1828:— REVENUE.
Custom- House duties, (whereof two-thirds are col-
lectedintheportof New York) 21,050,766 dollars.

Sale of public lands,

1,368,573 

Internal revenue,

22,416

Direct taxes,

3,865

Post-Office,

290

Dividends on bank stock,

396,700

Miscellaneous,

. 513,297 

Loans and treasury notes,

1,666,666 

25,022,573

or £5,630,078 sterlg.

EXPENDITURE.

Civil list,

1,271,877 dollars

Army,

. 3,852,707

Navy 

. 3,843,621 

Public debt,

. 11,046,698

t3

222

SIX YEARS RESIDENCE

Revolutionary pensions,
Other pensions,
Indian department, .
Foreign intercourse,
Miscellaneous, .

1,136,672 dollars.
215,762 
737,714 
421,199 
993,987 

23,520,237

or ^5,292,053 sterlg.
The public debt in 1825 was 83,788,432 dollars.
Ditto 1826 81,054,059 
Ditto 1827 73,987,357 
Ditto 1828 67,475,622 

or ^15,182,014* sterlg.

* The city taxes in some part's, of the United States are
very heavy. Take for example the city of Charleston, which
can by no means be reckoned as the highest :
" On value of lots or buildings, . . One per cent.
" Monies, notes, bonds, &c. on interest,
" Stock in trade,
" All profit or income arising from the pur
suit of any trade, faculty, or profession, ? One per cent.
excepting clergymen, teachers, &c.
" Stock of Marine or Fire Insurance Com
panies,
" Slaves per head  1| dollar.
" Coach, chariot, post-chaise, phaeton, or
other four-wheeled carriage, each, . 30 dollars.
" Four-wheeled chaise or carriage drawn by
one horse,  20 ...

IN THE UNITED STATES. 223
The progressive increase of population in the
United States, forms an interesting and pleas
ing subject to the contemplation of the philan
thropist. Here there is no ground to support the
hypothesis of a Malthus ; no occasion to delineate,
in glowing colours, the misery and starvation ine
vitably attendant upon a state of matrimony, or to
enact legal measures to check the growth of popu
lation. The increase of population in the United States,
during the last fifty years, is altogether unprece
dented ; and although immigration to a considera
ble degree has contributed to this increase, it must
be taken only in a limited sense. The number of
emigrants arriving in the United States in any one
year, cannot be reckoned much over twenty thou
sand. The following statement will show the pro
gressive increase of population since the revolu
tion. In a limited, or barren country, such a rapid

" Two ditto,  10 dollars.
" Sulkeys,  7 ...
" Saddle horses not used by the owners for
draught or military purposes, . . 15
" Lots without wells or cisterns, . . .40
" Dogs, single,  2 ...
" Ditto, plural, each,  10 ...
" Watches,  1 ...
The above is exclusive of the " State tax.''

224 six years' residence
increase would create substantial grounds for the
reasonings of a Malthus ; but in America, com
paratively speaking, there is merely a speck in the
ocean completely settled. The United States pos
sess lands, including that which is unappropriated,
sufficient to support at least five hundred millions
of people, allowing as many to the square mile as
are to be found in England.
In 1775, the population of all the States was estimated at 3,500,000
1790, ditto by census was 3,998,796
1800, ditto  . 5,348,000
1810, ditto  7,036,565
18S0, ditto „_- 9,636,433
1828, ditto estimated at 11,318,462

IN THE UNITED STATES. 225

CHAPTER XV.
CHURCHES AND RELIGION — LAWS IN REGARD TO THE CLERGY 
TITLES — DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN
STATES — CITIZENS' OATH — INTERCOURSE BETWEEN THE NORTH
AND SOUTH — GULF STREAM— SUNDRY REMARKS AT SEA, &C.
It is known to most people that in America there
is no church establishment. The very idea of such a
circumstance would offer to many, a ready apology
for throwing off all appearance of religion whatso
ever. Truth, when left to itself, will finally pre
vail over all obstacles independent of the illiberal
or ambitious institutions of mankind, which gene
rally, instead of forwarding, tend in a great mea
sure to overthrow the fabric they are framed to
support. Religion in America is not the produc
tion of a hot-bed, but is the natural fruit of the soil,
which, although somewhat barren in many places
in this respect, and meets with but little cultivation,
upon the whole, has flourished to an extent coequal
at least with the temporal prosperity of the coun
try. %t It may be truly said, that in America there are

226 six years' residence
many of that class called free-thinkers, that is,
many who have never given themselves the trouble
to investigate the only standard of truth, and de
spising to assume the sentiments of those who have,
conclude that any title bearing the standard of
liberty, is most appropriate to themselves.
In America there are certainly a greater propor
tion, who profess what are called loose sentiments
in regard to religious matters than in Britain ; this
may have arisen partly from a dislike to all con
straint, and partly from the adoption of French
principles. Those who expect, however, to hold a
place under government, must assent to the truth
of the Scriptures and the Christian religion.
In the large towns of America, the number of
churches in proportion to the population, consider
ably exceeds the average of churches in British
towns. At present the whole number of congrega
tions in America, has been estimated at ten thou
sand, viz : —
Congregationalists and Baptists, . . 4,500
Presbyterians,  2,500
Episcopalians,  500
Methodists, Quakers, Catholics, &c. 2,500

10,000
The methodists in America have made great

IN THE UNITED STATES. 227
progress especially among the coloured people.
The Roman Catholic religion cannot be expect
ed to meet with much encouragement, where the
liberty £of investigating the truth prevails. The
most of its votaries here are Irish or their immedi
ate descendants. In Philadelphia and some other
towns they have elegant churches; where the pom
pous mummeries of the Roman ritual are conducted
with a grandeur sufficient to impose upon the mul
titude. Unitarianism and Universalism seem to be gain
ing ground in America daily. In 1824, a Reverend
gentleman of the latter persuasion, publicly dis
puted for several days with a presbyterian clergy
man, on the merits of their respective creeds. As
might have been expected, they left off their dis
cussion just about as they commenced, each side
claiming the victory, and neither of them convinc
ed. To judge from the feelings of the public on
this occasion, the Universalist creed seemed the
most popular and palatable.
As neither great honours nor wealth are to be
attained in America by profound learning, it may
be naturally expected, that the clergy, if useful in
an ordinary degree, fulfil their duty. Illustrious
talents rarely blaze forth without some stimulus.
In America, many of the Methodist clergy are

228 six years' residence
very illiterate; I have heard a gentleman of that
sect, expatiate for about an hour on the roe of a
cod fish.
From the freedom of sentiment in regard to re
ligious matters prevalent in America, and also from
the nature of the government, there are not so many
different sects of Presbyterians existing as in Scot
land. In New York there is a small congregation
of Antiburghers or Seceders, and also one in Phila
delphia. The Burghers in America seem mostly
to amalgamate with their brethren of the church of
Scotland. Upon the whole, if the people of
America may in some cases be charged with being
rather latitudinarian in their principles, they are
equally free from many old fashioned and bigotted
practices, which reflect but little credit on certain
classes of Dissenters in Scotland. In a large coun
try town in Pennsylvania, I had an opportunity of
observing the conduct of a respectable clergyman
of the Episcopal church ; who with a liberality and
charity which would not be allowed in England,
invited the well-disposed of all sects, who were not
of scandalous character, to come forward to the
table of the Lord. " He invited them," as he said,
" to approach not the table of the church of Eng
land or of America, but the table of Christ."
It cannot be said that family religion is much

IN THE UNITED STATES. 229
attended to in America, either in town or country ;
family worship is practised but rarely, and the al
most universal custom in Scotland of asking a
blessing at meal times is by no means general. In
the State of Vermont, I observed that several Sco
tish emigrants kept up family worship on the morn
ing and evening of sabbath, but not upon week
days, although they had ample leisure for doing
so if at all inclined.
At the revolution, the Americans were deter
mined to enact laws, completely debarring the
clergy from interfering in the very smallest de
gree with government matters. An extract from the
38th and 39th section of the State laws of New
York may be quoted.
" And whereas we are required by the benevo
lent principles of rational liberty, not only to expel
civil tyranny, but also to guard against that spiri
tual oppression and intolerance, wherewith the bigo
try and ambition of weak and wicked priests and
princes have scourged mankind.
" This convention doth further, in the name and
by the authority of the good people of this State,
ordain, determine and declare, that the free exercise
and enjoyment of religious profession and worship
without discrimination or preference, shall for ever
hereafter be allowed within this State to all man-
u

230 six years' residence
kind, provided that the liberty of conscience here
by granted, shall not be construed as to excuse
acts of licentiousness, or justify practices inconsis
tent with the peace or safety of the State.
" And whereas the ministers of the gospel are,
by their profession, dedicated to the service of God
and the cure of souls, and ought not to be diverted
from the great duties of their functions ; therefore
no minister of the gospel or priest of any denomi
nation whatever, shall at any time hereafter, under
any pretence or description whatever, be eligible
to, or capable of holding any civil or military office
within this State."
Although all titles of rank are prohibited by law
in America, yet it may be safely affirmed, that no
set of men upon earth are more jealous and tena
cious of those distinctions and titles which custom
or courtesy has conferred upon them. The gover
nor of a State assumes, and is generally styled his
" Excellency" or " Honourable." Judges, also
Mayors of cities, are styled " His Honour." In
common life, that is to say, in hotels, steam-boats,
stage coaches, &c, the words General, Colonel,
Judge, Doctor, &c. are dealt about with little dis
crimination, and the title of " Squire," is applied
to almost every person of tolerable appearance;

IN THE UNITED STATES. 231
" Sir," and " Mr," are often applied to the most
common artizans and labourers.
It may be remarked, however, that it is by no
means a likely case, that upon landing in America,
you will have (as some travellers have asserted,) a
General or a Colonel to drive or carry your luggage
to an inn. It is nevertheless true, that there are
both colonels and generals in America, who sup
port themselves by occupations not altogether com
patible with the dignity attached to those ranks in
Britain. A major-general in New York is also
one of the most respectable tailors ; and I have
more than once travelled in a stage coach, the
driver of which had formerly, or actually did hold
a rank equally high. I remember on one occasion
having arrived in the evening, at a stage house in
the State of New York; the driver of the stage,
who was also joint proprietor thereof, after the
passengers had entered the house and drawn near
to the fire, came in, and after giving the billet of
wood which was nearest him upon the fire a
hearty kick, (an almost universal custom with the
Yankees upon entering a house in cold weather,)
accosted the landlord with, " Well, gen'ral, how
goes it? another cold night I guess; I expect the fire
wants some wood." The landlord replied, " Why
major, I guess you're in the right, the fire does
u 2

232 six years' residence
seem 'nation low, we must have that fixed slick
away ;" so saying, he went out and returned in a
twinkling with an armful of split wood, which he
threw on the fire. The landlord of this inn was
truly a jack of all trades, uniting the dignities and
avocations of store-keeper, inn-keeper, post-master,
farmer, and major-general in one and the same per
son. I knew a gentleman in a country town, not
many miles from Philadelphia, who possessed con
siderable wealth ; and amongst other speculations,
let out coaches for hire ; nor did he think it beneath
his dignity of " Squire and Major^" (such atleast
was he usually styled,) to act as driver himself, in
the absence of his regular Jehu. Upon making
some particular inquiries regarding the rank, which
this gentleman had ever held in the army ; I dis
covered that at the battle of Trenton, he had, be
ing then a boy of sixteen, driven one of the ammu
nition waggons. I suspect that the pedigree of
many an American general's title, would not stand
the test of investigation much better. The mania
for_titles amongst the Americans will most unques
tionably one day or other make them completely
lose sight of their so much talked of equality, nor
does it require any extraordinary stretch of fancy,
to predict that before the close of the twentieth cen
tury, such titles may be introduced as the " Earl

IN THE UNITED STATES. 233
of New York" or " Lord Philadelphia." The
Americans love liberty well enough, but vanity is
one of their hobby-horses ; every person who keeps
a carriage, has a coat of arms, or at least a crest,
painted on it, although there is reason to doubt,
that they might search the herald's office till dooms
day for their origin. It is not by any means a
mere chimera to suppose, that the extreme eager
ness display edby some Americans for empty and un
substantial honours, may by imperceptible degrees,
cause division, and strife amongst the would-be aris
tocrats, and the democrats of America, and even
tually lead to a separation of the States. Should
ever this event take place, there is no saying whe
ther the ambition and vanity of the great ones of
America, may not erect something a little different
from a Republic, in the midst of the general con
fusion. Even the most sanguine amongst the
Americans cannot but discover, that, although per
haps not in their day, yet the time cannot be far
distant, when the bands of the confederation will
be too feeble, to hold together such an unwieldy
fabric. The interests of many of the States, espe- ^
cially of the northern and southern divisions, are
as opposite as what their manners and their cli
mate are.
The Carolinians talk of the northern people,
u 3

234 six years' residence
(i. e. the New Englanders or Yankees,) with the
utmost contempt; looking upon them as a low,
hypocritical pack of cheating scoundrels. On the
other hand, these men of the north return the
compliment in style, and speak of the Carolinians
and Georgians, as being an unprincipled, dissipat
ed race of gamblers and slave dealers. They often
talk of each other with much more bitterness, than
ever was expressed by Britons towards Frenchmen
during the heat of war. A considerable trade is how
ever carried on between the northern and southern
States, the former supplying the latter with many
necessary articles of provision, which they do not
raise themselves. During the prevalence of the
yellow fever at Charleston, some years ago, a ves
sel arrived from the north, with a cargo of ready
made coffins. This glaring breach of decency, the
Carolinians will not soon forget; the coffins met
with no sale, and the captain of the coffin ship had
to cut away from the south with all speed.
About nine years ago, the town of Savannah
suffered greatly by fire, and many contributions
were sent from various States to assist the losers.
Amongst others, a contribution of several thou
sands of dollars was sent by the inhabitants of a
northern city, who very delicately expressed their
hope that a portion of this money should be ap-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 235
propriated to alleviate the distress of the coloured
people who had suffered. But mark the result ; the
whole amount was instantly returned by the high-
souled Georgians, who disdained, as they said, to
be dictated to by the Yankees. It may not be out
of place here, while talking of the Yankees, who
are generally stigmatised . in America with being
mean and avaricious, to state, that when a great
part of the British possessions suffered much from
fire which originated in the woods a few years ago,
and the population were in great distress, the Yan
kees, highly to their honour, generously despatched
several vessels loaded with flour and other provi
sions to their relief, and this gratuitously.
. I have heard men of experience and considera
tion, in America, assert, that if the last war with
Britain had continued but a year, or even half a
year longer, there would most certainly have been
a separation of the northern from the other States.
The enormous duties which are levied on foreign
goods, is a great bone of contention between the
northern and manufacturing, and the southern or
planting interest. It is mostly goods of British
manufacture, cotton, woollen, or linen, which are
worn in the Southern States; and it is almost
wholly British goods with which the planters clothe
their slaves. Now they think it very hard to pay

236 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
about double price for what goods they require
from Britain, merely, or at least chiefly to promote
the interests of the northern manufacturers, whilst,
•at the same time, they are exposing themselves to
countervailing duties by the British, who take from
them the greater part of their produce. If the
high duties are taken off British goods, the manu
facturers of America may leave off business, and
if these duties are continued the planters are in a
fair way of throwing off their burden, and admit
ting British goods free of duty.
The States west of the Allegany mountains, in
case of war, have not the same stake at risk as
the Sea-board or Atlantic States ; they are quite
at a distance from the field of contention, and have
but little to fear from a foreign enemy. In case
of a protracted war, they could not, nor would
they furnish men and money, in proportion to the
other States ; on the first spur of the occasion they
might do a little, but would socn get sick of the
business. It may not be unsuitable to state, for the infor
mation of those who may hereafter emigrate to the
United States of America, upon what terms they
may procure the rights and privileges of citizens.
During the continuance of the last war with Bri
tain, the American government were quite inclined

IN THE UNITED STATES. 237
to bestow this honour upon any person who chose
to take the oath ; and even yet there are various
ways of evading the law, which enjoins a proba
tion of five years' residence in America previous
to taking the oath. I have known the case of
a young man who laid himself down in a child's
cradle, and caused himself to be rocked therein for
a minute or two in the presence of two American
friends, who afterwards went along with him to
the proper office, and on being questioned if they
had known the applicant for some years, replied,
" Oh yes, a long time, we have known him since
he was rocked in his cradle !" Such shifts as these
are resorted to sometimes by sailors who enter on
board American ships, and the custom-house offi
cers wink at it, otherwise vessels might occasion
ally be delayed for want of. hands, the law requir
ing that three-fourths of a ship's crew be citizens
of America. The regular way of going to work
is to give intimation at the proper office of your
intention to become a citizen, and thereafter ap
pearing at the same place in five years afterwards
to take the oath, which may be conceived by most
people as being not quite easy to swallow ; unless
a person is quite determined to spend the re
mainder of his days in America. The nature of this
oath is such, that the individual most solemnly

238 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
forswears allegiance for ever to all princes, poten
tates, and powers on earth, especially the King
of Great Britain and Ireland, and in the same so
lemn manner swearing everlasting allegiance to
the President of the United States. The advan
tages, in some respects, enjoyed by citizens over
aliens, has induced thousands of honest Britons to
take the required oath, whether such have done so
with a mental reservation, like a certain class of
Christians, it is not my business to inquire. I as
sured some of my friends who pressed me upon
this topic, that I would not have the least objec
tion to rally around the standard of the stars and
stripes against all foreign enemies whatsoever, ex
cepting the land of my nativity ; and I hope, that
I may not be understood as intending to shove in
a compliment to myself when I state, that I found
several obstructions and disadvantages in the
course of my business for declining to swallow
this test of obedience to his honour the President.
It is certainly a matter deserving of some little de
liberation, at least to one who has not actually re
nounced all ideas of ever returning to his native
soil. I cannot, however, avoid stating my humble
opinion, that the man who would dare to rise in
arms against his native country, is unworthy of
the name of Briton, and can scarcely be expected

IN THE UNITED STATES. 239
to possess the confidence even of his adopted coun
trymen. On the other hand, I by no means envy
the feelings of that man, who, after having spent a
few years in America, would cherish the idea of
embruing his hands with the blood of Columbia's
sons. I have already mentioned, that a considerable in- \
tercourse is at all times carried on between the !
northern and southern ports ; but especially in the
winter season, a sort of emigration southward begins
generally in October from the cities of Boston, New
York and Philadelphia, consisting chiefly of mer
chants and mechanics, who go south to carry on
their several callings for a few months, and return
early next summer. A goodly number of play
actors also go south at this season to amuse the
planters, and no small number of lady adventurers,
who yearly pay the southern gentlemen a visit to
empty their pockets of a few dollars, To the ho
nour of the inhabitants of Charleston be it spoken,
that there is hardly an instance on record, of a
native-born white woman of that city turning out
" a woman of the town." This is one reason why
the southern gentlemen draw yearly upon their
northern brethren for such commodities. There
are elegantly fitted up packet ships plying weekly
between these ports. The passage money from

240 six years' residence
New York to Charleston varies from twenty to
thirty dollars (£4 10s. to £6 15s.) A number of
schooners also ply regularly ; in these, the fare is
from twelve to twenty dollars (£2 14s. to £4< 10s.)
The voyage is usually accomplished in from four
to eight days. These schooners are sometimes
commanded by men who know little of navigation
as a science ; but they are generally hardy, steady
fellows, and find their, way quite snugly along the
coast, without troubling themselves much about
their reckoning. They in general contrive to find
their latitude, and by keeping inside of the gulph
stream on their voyage southwards, seldom go
wrong. Many of these honest fellows trade to
the West Indies, taking cattle, provisions and lum
ber with them. They load their puny vessels
most unconscionably sometimes. I have seen a
vessel of fifty or sixty tons, with a load on deck of
hay and lumber, at least eight feet high, whilst the
water was within eighteen inches of the deck, con
tending with a heavy sea, half way betwixt Ame
rica and the West Indies. At every roll of these
overloaded vessels, you might observe the sea
rushing completely over the deck. Accidents
occur occasionally, but not so often as might be
expected. Jn some of these West India voyages,
I was told that the master notes down his observa-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 241
tions on the edge of the bulwarks of the vessel,
with a pencil, making this serve as a log book.
The whole coast of America, at least south of
New York, is remarkably low, and land is invisi
ble until within a few leagues. The first appear
ance of land on the coast of Carolina, is the tops of
the pine trees.
Were the ocean as deep along this coast as upon
the British shores, the consequenceswould bedread-
ful to seamen ; but Providence has wisely provided
for this, soundings being found at a great distance
from land. Close in shore, the depth is generally
six or seven fathoms, and it gradually deepens
about one fathom per mile for forty or fifty miles
out ; in some places to a greater distance, so that
seamen have fair warning of their danger. The
gulph stream, which is a current issuing from the
gulph of Mexico, between the southernmost point
of Florida? and the West India Islands, and runs
along a great part of the American coast, is ano
ther guide to vessels approaching the southern
States of America. By the use of a thermometer,
any captain may ascertain whether he is within
the limits of this stream. Indeed, it is the gene
ral custom for seamen, in approaching this coast,
to draw a bucket of water occasionally, the water
within the stream or current feeling almost milk-

242 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
warm. I have made several experiments with a
thermometer in this stream, one of which I may
quote from a memorandum book :
" 1823. Dec. 13th. — Ship Empress, bound from
Charleston to New York, latitude 35° 20'; lon
gitude 75°, being in the gulph stream, steering
-west.
At 9 a. m. thermometer in air, 57.
... do. do. in water, 72.
lido. do. in air, 56, being out of the stream.
...do. do. in water, 56.
The temperature of the water has, therefore, fallen
16 degrees in two hours."
Over a great part of the Western Atlantic
Ocean, an immense quantity of what is commonly
called Gulph weed, floats on the surface of the
water. It is remarkable, that hardly a particle of
this weed is found within the stream ; but it is very
thick along the edges. It generally runs in long
ridges, and may lie sometimes as deep as six or
eight inches, and close together. In some parts,
as far as the eye can reach, the surface of the
ocean resembles an immense field of ripe corn. I
have seen small living crabs floating on this weed.
In the dark it has a luminous appearance. In the
first voyage of Columbus, his vessels were de
scribed as having had their progress impeded by
weeds. It is probable that he was then not far

IN THE UNITED STATES. 243
distant from the American coast. I have heard
the captain of a ship affirm, that his vessel has
gone half a knot, or even a whole knot slower per
hour, when this weed lay thick on the sea. There
are other symptoms of a near approach to land, well
known to seamen ; but which a landsman could
observe little indication of. In my first vOyage to
Carolina in 1817, a few days previous to our
making land, I observed a Newfoundland dog on
board particularly busy in thrusting his head out
of one of the ports, and snuffing at an unusual rate.
On remarking this to the captain, he said that the
dog felt the smell of land, and that he himself
plainly felt the smell of the pine woods. In the
course of next day, I thought I could distinctly
perceive a strong flavour of pine.
The Gulph stream on the coast of Florida, runs
at the rate of six or seven miles an hour at one
part ; on the coast of Carolina, it decreases to two
or three miles per hour, gradually increasing in
breadth, and decreasing in rapidity as it flows
north easterly, and loses itself in the wide expanse
of the Atlantic. The weed which floats in such
plenty over the ocean, is supposed to grow on the
shores of the Gulph of Mexico. If it does so, it
seems not to be carried out by the stream. When
the wind blows hard in opposition to this current,
x 2

244 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
it raises a very cross tumbling sea ; and when it
blows with the stream for a number of days, an
immensely high and long sea is raised. I had an
opportunity more than once (particularly in March,
1820) of witnessing the effects of an equinoctial
gale on this stream, and the height of the sea
was truly tremendous. I have read that some phi
losopher (Mr Boyle, I think) demonstrated that
the greatest wind did not penetrate farther into
the body of the water than six feet, consequently
raising the greatest wave to the height of twelve
feet; but he allowed, that in a continued gale, se
veral of these waves unite, forming what seamen
term mountains high.
I conceive, that the height of the billows of the
ocean, can only be conjectured at in a great storm,
and at a distance from land. The fairest way to
come near the truth may be, to keep your eye
fixed steadily on the vessel, while she is either in
the trough of the sea, or on the top of a wave, and
comparing, at the same time, the height and the
distance between the top of two billows. I tried
this plan along with three or four other persons on
board a ship of four hundred tons, the length of
which was upwards of an hundred feet ; each of
us, unknown to the rest, were to mark down what
we estimated the distance between the top of two

IN THE UNITED STATES. 245
waves to be, and also what we conjectured the
perpendicular height to be from the lowest hol
low betwixt the waves. On comparing notes,
we averaged the distance from the top of one
wave to the top of the next, to be at least seven
or eight times the length of the ship, and the per
pendicular height at least forty feet. Whether we
were any thing near the truth, perhaps future ex
periments may show. In talking of the sea, I may
mention what may be thought rather a remarkable
circumstance. In a voyage from Carolina to Scot
land, in December 1826, the captain and I ob
served, that not one day had passed during the
whole voyage, in which we had not seen some birds
of one kind or other. The most common bird to
be seen in all parts of the Atlantic, and at a great
distance from land, is the Stormy Peterel, called
Mother Carey's Chicken by the sailors. It is
most generally seen in stormy weather, and seems
to delight amid the tumult of contending waters,
skimming along the mountain billows with incre
dible velocity ; at other times, fluttering in the
wake of. the ship, but never alighting even for a
moment. In this voyage also I may mention, that
from our leaving Charleston light-house, until we
were within fifty miles of Cape-clear, we never saw
a single vessel of any description, at least from ofi
the deck.
x3

246 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE

CHAPTER XVI.
COAST OF CAROLINA — SULLIVAN'S ISLAND — SIR PETER PARKER —
APPEARANCE OF CHARLESTON AND ENVIRONS — CLIMATE — PRICKLY.
HEAT — MOSQUITOES, &C  CHURCHES— SABBATH — METHODISTS —
PUBLIC BUILDINGS — ORPHAN HOUSE — EARL OF CHATHAM — FUNE
RALS — MARKETS — THEATRES — BALLS, &C. — DUELLING ANEC
DOTES.
In approaching the coast of Carolina, the first vi
sible indication of land that meets your eye, is a
low dark ridge appearing in the horizon. This is
merely the top of the pine trees. Upon a nearer
approach, a low white sandy beach comes into
view, and the appearance of the country is by no
means flattering. There is a bar of sand across
the opening, which forms Charleston harbour and
roads ; and this has often proved fatal to ships, —
the depth of water on this bar, at low-water, being
only twelve or thirteen feet, and the highest spring
tide rises only about seven feet on this coast.
Having crossed the bar, you have Sullivan's Island
on your right, studded with its numerous wooden
houses, painted white or yellow, the roof red ge-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 247
nerally, and all furnished with piazzas. The ap
pearance of these, to the eye of a stranger from
Britain, is what he might conceive to be of a town
in the East Indies or China. This island is mere
ly a sand bank, with a few shrubs here and there.
The houses are mostly elevated on posts, to give a
free passage to the blast, otherwise they would
have a chance of being overwhelmed by the sand
drifting on them. Walking is very disagreeable,
the feet sinking deep at every step, excepting at
low water, when there is a fine sandy beach as
hard and as smooth as marble, upon which the in
habitants drive their carriages in the cool of the
evening. This island has for many years been the
refuge of the Charleston people when visited by
the yellow fever. Although only six miles distant
from the city, it has generally been free from in
fection, until in 1824, when the yellow fever broke
out, and was more dangerous than in the city. In
some former seasons, there have been upwards of
five thousand inhabitants on this island at one
time. The price of boarding, at such a period, is
very high, being from eight to eighteen dollars
(£1 16s. to £4> Is.) per week. There is a strong
fort here, (Fort Moultrie) mounting many heavy
guns ; each painted on the breech with the name
of some American hero, as Washington, Lee,

248 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
Gates, Fayette, &c. The outside of this fort is
surrounded with many strong pallisades of Pal
metto logs, into which cannon balls will lodge
without splitting them. The rampart is composed
of turf and sand. There is a fort on the opposite
shore, so that no vessel can pass up the channel
without being exposed to the fire of both forts.
Sir Peter Parker made an attack on Sullivan's
Island in 1778 ; but partly owing to the ignorance
of his pilots, was repulsed with the loss of a fri
gate and some smaller vessels, and a considerable
number of men. Lord Nelson was a lieutenant
on board one of his ships in this affair. The
Americans say, that Sir Peter Parker had a very
narrow escape here, having had the hinder part of
his breeches carried off by a cannon ball. They as
sert that this is no joke, -but a real historical fact.
Close to the city there is another fort ; but some
people think that the principal defence of Charles
ton against enemies, as it is found to be against
hurricanes, is the bar.
The city of Charleston, like the most part of the
sea ports in America, is situated on a neck of land
between two rivers, the Ashley on the south, and
the Cooper on the north ; these unite at the town,
and enter the ocean about ten miles to the east of
Charleston. The latitude of this city is 32° 42>

IN THE UNITED STATES. 249
north, and longitude 80° 11' west of London.
The appearance of it is quite different from that of
the northern cities, the houses having a lighter
and more airy look ; many of them are built of
brick, and slated, but the greater part are of wood
covered with shingles. Some of these wooden
houses have a magnificent appearance, many of
them having lofty porticoes in front in the Grecian
style ; and although the pillars are of timber, being
finely painted, they convey an idea of grandeur.
The streets mostly cross each other at right angles ;
a few of them are about eighty feet wide, and being
planted on each side with trees at the outer edge
of the footpath (which is generally of brick), have
a lively and cheerful appearance. These trees are
called " Pride of India;" the blossom is some
thing like lilac, and the smell is agreeable. Only
two or three of the principal streets are paved in
the middle, which was done at great expense, the
stones being mostly brought from the northern
States, and many of them from Greenock. The
rest of the streets, excepting a footpath of brick
on each side, present nothing but bare sand,
which is disagreeable in blowy weather, and renders
walking unpleasant in rainy weather. There are
no public walks about Charleston, excepting a sort
of terrace at the water side called the Battery,

250 six years' residence
which is but limited. In every direction from the
city, the roads are formed through deep sand ; and
alongst the banks of the rivers walking is impossi
ble, unless up to the middle amongst reeds and
mud. Some geographers describe the environs
of Charleston as being " beautiful beyond descrip
tion,'' but this is far from being the case. Many
gentlemen's gardens in the city and suburbs are
adorned with rich and beautiful plants, and in
spring the woods are ornamented with a profusion
of jessamine, and some other elegant shrubs, but
on the whole, the look of the country is but dry.
The climate of Charleston being very mild in
winter, you may in general see roses, and some
other flowers in bloom as late as Christmas, and
the spring commences early. Peach trees begin
to blossom about the middle, or towards the end of
February. The winter, so called, is of short con
tinuance, yet there are some very bitter cold days,
and ice may sometimes be seen half an inch thick
in the morning, but soon disappears in the rays of
the meridian sun. Snow has only fallen once in
Charleston in the course of twenty years. The
winter and spring are reckoned the most agree
able seasons, the summer being uniformly warm,
and the autumn generally sultry and debilitating.
There are occasionally weeks of weather in winter

IN THE UNITED STATES. 251
as fine as any summer weather in Scotland. A
north-west wind in winter always brings along
with it cold weather ; but the sky is clear, and al
though the air is piercing in the shade, it is quite
agreeable in the sun. I have seen the thermometer
at the freezing point in the shade, but being placed
so as to receive the direct rays of the sun, out of
the influence of the blast, it rose to 130 ! Change
able as the weather is accounted in Britain, it is
not subject to such violent transitions as it exhibits
here in winter. From many years' accurate ob
servation in Scotland, the greatest range of the
thermometer in any twenty-four hours, has not
been known to exceed twenty-seven or twenty-eight
degrees, which generally happened in summer.
In Charleston I have observed the thermometer at
mid-day as high as eighty to eighty-two degrees,
and have seen ice before sunrise next morning,
thereby indicating a fall of at least fifty degrees.
It has been remarked, that there are never more
than three days of remarkably cold weather in suc
cession ; the same observation holds in regard to
the heat in summer. From the first of May,
until the beginning of November, the weather
may be reckoned steadily warm. In some seasons,
from the first of June till the end of August, the
thermometer has never indicated less than 82°

252 six years' residence
either night or day. During the night the heat
feels most oppressive ; and as the musquitoes are
most troublesome then, sound sleep-can hardly be
obtained ; this, however, may be productive of one
good effect, by creating the habit of early rising.
Few people who regard their health? lie in bed after
sunrise in the warm season. People generally have
their marketing over so early as from five till seven
o'clock in the morning, and you will often perceive
ladies busily employed in shoping at this early pe
riod of the day, although many of them make
amends for this, by taking a nap or siesta in the
afternoon. Strangers are generally enjoined to
keep their bed-room windows closed during the
night, to exclude the air. In very hot weather, I
have found it almost impossible to comply with this,
even while sleeping in a large apartment, and ra
ther than run the risk of being half suffocated with
stagnant air, I have always adopted the plan of
keeping the window sash up, and merely closing
the blinds. As there is generally a complete cover
ing of pavilion gauze placed over the beds here, I
conceive that the night air can be breathed in safe-!
ty through such a medium; may it not serve a
similar purpose as the iron gauze which surrounds
Sir H. Davy's safety lamp ? It may be remarked,
that it is reckoned much safer in this climate, to

IN THE UNITED STATES. 253
sleep in a chamber up two or three stairs, than
upon the ground floor.
The orange and the fig grow here in plenty ; the
former is mostly of the sour or bitter kind. The spe
cies of fig which grows in Charleston, comes -forth
without any blossom — -when ripe they are excellent
and wholesome. A common breakfast with some
of the French people, who are considered a tem
perate race of men, is bread and butter, with a
plateful of fresh figs and a tumbler of claret.
The average quantity of rain falling annually in
Charleston, is about forty- five inches, but there are
not half the number of rainy days we have in Scot
land. The mean annual heat is 63.
As Charleston is situated nearly 23J degrees
south from Glasgow; the sun on the shortest day
appears at the former place, at an elevation the same
as it does at Glasgow on the 20th March: And at
this latter period} it appears as high in Charleston
as it does in Glasgow at jnidsummer.
Strangers are (particularly the first summer
after their arrival here,) obnoxious to a disorder,
which, although unattended with fatal consequen
ces, is very annoying. This disease, the proper
title of which, is "Herpes," is commonly called
" Prickly heat." The person labouring under it,
feels, particularly while in bed, as if ten thousand
Y

254 six years' residence
needles were at once run into his body, attended
with a most intolerable degree of itchiness. The
whole body sometimes, from the crown of the head
to the sole of the foot, appears as if completely
flayed. I have seen instances, where the patient
was obliged to sit during the whole day in his shirt
upon a chair, the least additional clothing causing
an increase of pain ; and frequently have I been
obliged, in almost actual desperation, to pour a ba
sin of cold water suddenly over my head; this how
ever only afforded momentary relief, and is besides
very imprudent. The best method to alleviate the
pain, is to rub over the body frequently with spirits
or sugar of lead water. The only comfort one en
joys under this most tormenting disease, is the as
surance of the Faculty, that while labouring under
it they are free from the attacks of more danger
ous disorders. The surest and safest remedy for this
disease, is the return of cool weather, which afonce
exterminates both it and yellow fever, should it pre
vail, and likewise these tantalizing insects musque-
toes. In talking of these pests of this climate, I can
not refrain from mentioning an occurrence, which
caused no small degree of mirth in Charleston, in
the sun„mer of 1822. A sturdy Highlander arriv
ed with his family from Greenock. At this season
the musquetoes were quite in heart to attack fresh

IN THE UNITED STATES. 255
blood. The Highlander, previous to his going up
the country, spent some days in the city, during
which, being naturally desirous of viewing the ra
rities of the town, he perambulated the streets in
his philabeg, a dress which did not fail to draw
after him, wherever he went, an amazing crowd of
astonished negroes. • Some of his countrymen, who
felt almost ashamed at hearing many ludicrous re
marks passed upon a Scotsman, civilly hinted to
him the propriety of his providing himself with
inexpressibles ; and at last some of them who ima
gined, that possibly Donald might not be altoge
ther flush in money matters, delicately offered to
purchase the necessary article. This fairly set the
Caledonian blood a-boiling; Donald took it as a
high insult, and exclaimed, " May pe, she could
puy as many preeks as the pest o' them, an' mair
too, but wad she pe changing her claise for them
puppies?" What, however, neither the entreaties
nor the eloquence of his countrymen could do, was
effected in a pretty short time by the musquetoes,
and Donald was forced to give in and submit to be
breeched.. Charleston contains a sufficient number of
churches to accommodate the inhabitants, many
of them spacious and handsome. The principal
Episcopalian church (Saint Michaels) is a large
Y 2

256 six years' residence
building, adorned with one of the finest steeples in
America, one hundred and seventy-five feet in height;
there is a staircase by which one may ascend to
within a few feet of the top, the viewjfrom which is
very imposing, the city appearing like a regularly
laid out pleasure garden, studded with flower boxes.
The view towards the land appears as level as the
ocean, the horizon being bounded by the dark
green forests of pine. In this steeple, there is a
good ring of bells, which were sent out in a present
by queen Caroline, consort of George the Second.
Besides Saint Michaels, there are three other Epis
copal churches, three Presbyterian, three Metho
dist, two Roman Catholic, one Baptist, one Inde
pendent, one Universalist, one Lutheran, one
French Protestant, one Mariners, the Orphan House
chapel, and a Jews' Synagogue; some of them ele
gantly fitted up, and all of them spacious and
roomy. The pews are made very wide in the
churches in this warm climate. It has been esti
mated, that the churches in this city are regularly
attended by about twenty thousand people, out of
a population of thirty-eight thousand. One of the
largest churches is called the " Circular church"
from its round form, it is eighty-eight feet in dia
meter, and surmounted by a dome. In most, if not
in all of these churches, the liberality of the Caro-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 257
linians is exhibited in a very amiable light, one side
of the gallery being appropriated solely for the use
of strangers, and the other side for coloured
people. The sabbath is more religiously observed here
in general by the inhabitants, than their northern
brethren are willing to allow; and, of late years at
least, one congregation of Presbyterians are exhi
biting visible proofs of their advancement in piety,
by assembling at church for prayer on week days,
as early as five o'clock in the morning. The fe
male sex seem chiefly to be actuated by such feel
ings. I have observed at a sacrament in a presby-
terian church in Charleston, from two to three hun
dred white females at the Lord's table, — the num
ber of men who came forward was three ! the black
people who were afterwards served came forward,
to the number of several hundreds of both sexes.
Two or three Scotish merchants of the first re
spectability in the city, perform family worship re
gularly, — this is rather an uncommoncircumstance,
however. In the churches in this place, there are
occasionally concerts of sacred music performed on
Sunday evening after sermon for charitable purpo
ses. The sound of French Horns, Bassoons, Vio
lins, &c. has at first a strange effect on the ear of
a raw Scotsman on Sunday. I once stept into a
y 3

258 six years' residence
French Catholic meeting house, where, for want of
a more noble instrument, a gentleman, snugly seat
ed in an arm chair, performed a Solo on the vio
lin, accompanying the same with his voice.
The coloured people chiefly attend the Metho
dist and Baptist meetings ; and, in general, the
Word seems to have a very powerful effect upon
them. When the Methodist preachers perceive
that their discourse operates keenly on the senses
of the Negroes, they leave no stone unturned to
work up the feelings of their audience to an extra
vagant and ridiculous pitch, and depict hell tor
ments with all the logic they can muster. The
sermons occasionally, but the prayers always, are
intermingled with the yelling and hooting of the
Negroes ; the women tearing their caps off, beating
their heads on the posts, and make use of a thou
sand other gestures, quite indecorous in a place of
worship. The Methodists are certainly, however,
very sincere in their endeavours to convert this be
nighted and neglected class of mankind ; and upon
the evening of a Sunday, the song of praise may
frequently be heard to issue from the hovel of the
Negro, whilst all is quiet in the mansions of the
wealthy. I may, however, remark by the way,
that the religious fervour of the Negroes does not
always break forth in strains the most reverential

in the united states. 259
or refined. The downfall of the arch-fiend forms
the principal topic of their anthems. A few lines
recollected at random may serve as an example,
as — " Sturdy sinners, come along,
" Hip and thigh we'll pull him down,
" Let us pull old Satan down,
" We shall get a heavenly crown," &c. &c.
Or, " Old Satan, come before my face
" To pull my kingdom down,
" Jesus come before my face
" To put my kingdom up.
" Well done, tankee, Massa Jesus.
Halleluja," &c.
The State House is an extensive and elegant
building. There are several fine buildings occupied
as banks. The Custom- House and Post-Office de
partments are conducted in a handsome solid build
ing, erected during the British sway. Some towns
in America are indebted for many of their most
substantial and useful buildings to their former
masters. St Andrew's Hall is quite an elegant building,
belonging to the Scotish Society. It contains a spa
cious Assembly Room, &c. It was furnished up as
a residence for President Munroe in his tour
through the Southern States in 1818.

260 six years' residence
The Orphan House in the suburbs is a spacious
building, in which a great number of destitute
children are supported and educated. There is a
chapel attached to this establishment, in which di
vine service is performed every Sunday by all the
different clergymen of the city in rotation : there
is a fine painting of " Christ blessing little chil
dren" to be seen here. In the court, in front of
the large building, there is a marble statue of Wil
liam Pitt, earl of Chatham, erected by the Caro
linians in honour of that great man, as the inscrip
tion expresses, " for his noble and disinterested
conduct in vindicating the rights of the Americans,
the true sons of Britain !"
Charleston is by no means destitute of charita
ble institutions ; on the contrary, in times of sick
ness, strangers in want of assistance have been
well looked after, and have received every atten
tion from the inhabitants. Numerous instances have
occurred wherein ladies of respectability have
shown much sympathy towards people to whom
they were perfect strangers, administering with
their own hands every necessary of which they
stood in need, and granting them effectual assist
ance on their recovery. This trait in the character
of the Carolinian ladies must certainly reflect upon
them great credit.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 261
Funerals are attended here by males and fe
males indiscriminately. No liquors are served round
as in Scotland. An invitation to the friends and
acquaintances ot the family of the deceased is insert
ed in the newspapers, which serves in place of
funeral letters. If a minister is present, a prayer
is offered up, and an exhortation given at the
house of the deceased ; but if the person has been
well known and respectable, a short funeral ser
mon is delivered in the church, into which the
coffin is carried and placed upon stools during the
service. Part of a psalm or hymn is sung ; and the
tunes generally selected on such occasions, are as
sociated with the warmest and earliest recollections
of Scotsmen.
Carpenters here generally keep a large assort
ment of different sized coffins ready made, as peo
ple are interred on the same day on which they
die, or the next at farthest. You will see shop-
windows in various parts of the city stuck full of
coffin plates and mounting, which is by no means
an agreeable sight to strangers during a time of
sickness. Coffins for the better sort of people are
made of mahogany, and cost from twenty to thirty
dollars. The corpse is generally dressed in the
same kind of apparel as when the person was in
life, excepting the want of the coat in males,

262 six years' residence
The markets in Charleston are built on the
same plan as those of Philadelphia, only upon a
much more limited scale ; and they are but poorly
supplied in general, provisions being much higher
than in the north. Cattle are frequently im
ported alive from New York. There is generally
a good supply of pork and venison. Deer are
brought in almost every day from the country.
Those about the size of a calf of two months old,
sell for about two to two and a half dollars per
quarter. Squirrels also, and opossums are exhi
bited for sale. Every article is much dearer than
¦in Philadelphia. No article whatever can be pur
chased for less than 6£ cents, (the TVth of a dol
lar, 3^d. Carolina currency) that being the small
est silver coin used here by white people. No
coppers are in use, but amongst Negroes. For a
very few vegetables (what might be procured for
little more than a halfpenny in Glasgow) you
must pay 3|d. Peaches and melons are cheap in
their season ; and at all times there is a supply of
fruit from the West Indies, vessels arriving from
' thence in four days sometimes. Apples are mostly
imported from New York, and sell pretty high
occasionally. During the warm season, the mar
ket is open on Sunday morning until eight o'clock,
'fresh meat keeping good only for a few hours.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 263
Fish, in summer, are, in general, sold alive. An j
immense quantity of onions, cabbages, &c. are im- '
ported to this market from the north. A mode
rate sized cabbage sells for 7d. and sometimes
even as high as lOd. The kind of potatoes most
generally used, are sweet potatoes ; some of which
are very large. People accustomed to them prefer
them to all other kinds, although they are not
liked at first by strangers, tasting somewhat like
frosted potatoes. Some excellent potatoes are
raised near Charleston in spring, but are only in
season for a short time, the heat bringing that sort
of potatoe too rapidly forward. Ships from Li
verpool and Scotland occasionally bring some po
tatoes with them, which sell very high when in
good condition, which is but seldom, unless when
put up in small hampers. Salt herrings sell high
also when of a superior quality, and in good order.
Good English cheese likewise finds a ready sale,
and any of these dainties to which people from
Britain have been accustomed. A stranger may
find a good deal of entertainment in perambulat
ing the markets in Charleston, the Negroes use so
much ceremony with one another, bowing and
curtseying to the ground, and expressing every
mark of politeness to each other. On Sundays
they are all tolerably well dressed ; some of them

264 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
richly. The common head dress of females is a
pullicat handkerchief wrapped round their head ;
but on holidays, they have hats of the richest
materials. To judge from appearances, they
seem quite happy, and give every scope to their
risible faculties. The Negroes, in general, seem
to be very clannish, and the words " Madam,"
" Sir," « Mr," « Daddy," « Mamma," » Broder,"
" Sister," and such like kindly and polite terms,
are indiscriminately bandied about by these en
slaved, but apparently contented creatures.
The Charleston people are fond of amusement
and gaiety ; and many of them are remarkably fond
of keeping up an equipage of some kind or other,
and do not scruple to stint themselves in many
comforts of a domestic nature, for the sake of sav
ing appearances. On Sunday, the turn out of
coaches and carriages is astonishing for such a
small city, many of them very handsome ; but I
have more than once observed a black fellow
acting as postilion, who had neither shoe nor
stocking on his feet, although his jacket and hat
were adorned with rich livery, and the carriage
bore all the insignia of nobility on the outside.
The Theatre is a large brick building neatly
fitted up. There is generally a tolerably good
company of actors in winter. I saw Mr Kean

IN THE UNITED STATES. 265
here in 1826. He performed fifteen nights at two
hundred dollars (£45) per night. The price of
admission to the boxes and pit is one dollar, and
no " coloured people or dogs" are admitted, as ex
pressed in the play-bills. There are several so
cieties who have monthly balls in winter, at which
there is generally a good display of ladies, who
are perhaps somewhat a little reserved to strangers
at first. They are usually sprightly and elegant
in their appearance, though their complexion is
very pale and delicate. They have often been re
marked for their amiable manners.
In this climate, the human frame, particularly
the female, arrives much sooner at perfection than
in our cold clime. I have seen a mother at thir
teen, and a grandmother at thirty-one. Young
ladies are, in many instances,] married as early as
fifteen or sixteen. Females of twenty-five, un
married, may be fairly classed in the rank of old
maids. Boys assume the habilimenfe, and acquire
the habits of men at a very early period. I have
heard a Carolinian thus boastingly express him
self in company : " Our boys at sixteen are as
much men as Europeans at twenty-five, by  ."
In some respects this is true enough. Many lads
of fifteen or sixteen are excellent penmen and ac
countants, and can transact business with a know-

266 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
ledge far above their years; but they also (at
least on an average) smoke, take a glass of grog,
attend the theatre, &c. play at billiards, and occa
sionally fight a duel. This last accomplishment
used to be too common in Carolina ; it is now,
however, by no means gaining ground. I once
was witness to a curious rencontre which took
place in the box-lobby of the theatre, betwixt two
striplings of fifteen or sixteen : the one demanding
from the other, with all the boisterous eloquence
of offended dignity, the satisfaction due to a gentle
man, and insisting upon an immediate meeting.
The hero, who was most indignant, wore a bit of
crape on his left arm. Upon making some in
quiry, I found he was ornamented with this mark
of mourning in honour of a brother apprentice
lately deceased, who belonged to the " Barbers
Society ! !"
The laws are now very severe against duelling ;
but many serious affairs have taken place within
the last twenty years. The parties concerned ge
nerally decide the matter in another State, and in
stantly decamp. A young Scotish gentleman,
who at present resides in Charleston, having been
grossly injured by a merchant, found it necessary
to send him a challenge, the result of which was
a meeting, in which he received a ball through

IN THE UNITED STATES. 267
both legs. The American was so blood-thirsty,
that he insisted on having a seat procured for the
wounded man, that he might finish the business.
This, however, was not allowed ; one of the Scots
man's seconds (an honest Hibernian) swearing,
that if this was their way of doing business, he
must try a shot with him next.
About twenty years ago, a fellow who had made
duelling almost a trade, and who got the credit of
having sent many a one out of the world, out of
sheer mischief, intendedly insulted a Scotsman,
who was reputedly a good tempered man, and at
last provoked him to retort a little; he then in
stantly challenged the Scot, who was sorely dis
mayed, as no one had ever escaped the clutches of
the duelling hero. His friends, however, advised
him to demand three or four weeks to practise,
which could not be refused. At length the meet
ing took place, and a great crowd assembled on
the spot. The Scotsman having the first fire, fortu
nately shot his antagonist through the heart, who
instantly fell. The dead man's second, a bird of
the same feather, stepping up, looked down at his
friend with wonderful composure, and perceiving
the wound, exclaimed with a sort of approving
grin, " a  good shot, by  ."
While upon the subject of duelling, I am tempt-
z 2

268 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
ed to add another anecdote which took place
about 1822, and excited considerable interest
among the majority of Scotsmen residing in Ame
rica. A General Cadwallader, who has been
pointed out to me in Philadelphia, and is a very
gentlemanly-looking man, was one of the managers
or stewards of a great ball which took place. He
refused a ticket to Dr P— n, who was professor of
, anatomy in Baltimore, (formerly of Glasgow, and
now of the London University) alleging that he
was unfit to appear in such company. The Doc
tor, who was born and brought up in a situation
and rank at least superior to the majority of Ame
rican Generals, sent him a challenge, and having
met," wounded the man-of-war in the arm, and in
quired if he was satisfied. The General, not re
lishing any more pills of that nature from the
hands of the son of Galen, and probably imagin
ing that the Doctor might naturally enough have
an eye upon his carcase, as a fit subject for his
dissecting table, declined farther operations. There
were few Scotsmen in America, who did not feel
gratified at the Doctor's prowess, especially as the
origin of the whole affair was principally to grati
fy an unworthy private feeling on the part of the
American.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 269

CHAPTER XVII.
HOSPITALITY — PLANTERS, &C. — LOW COUNTRY — WOODS— COUNTRY
CHURCH — WILD TURKEYS AND GAME — SNAKES — COUNTRY INN —
WAGGONERS.
The Carolinians have been famed for their hospi
tality ; but this virtue does not, in general, flourish
so much in great towns, as where population is
thin. Good letters of introduction generally pro
cure suitable treatment to strangers in every civi
lized country. This holds good here as well as
elsewhere. Like the rest of the Americans, the
Carolinians possess an openness and frankness of
manner peculiar in a considerable degree, to the
whole country. The higher orders of society in
Carolina will stand a comparison at any time, for
intelligence and politeness, with their northern
brethren, and they are perhaps more free of that
niggardliness of disposition, which distinguishes
many of the latter, whose whole soul and mind are
centered in the accumulation of wealth.
The failings of the planters are of an opposite
nature ; extravagance and thoughtlessness being a
z3

270 six years' residence
more prominent feature in their general character.
Notwithstanding there are severe penalties against
gambling, many a fair estate has been thrown away
in Carolina, by a turn of the dice. The planters
at horse races and similar meetings, used to bet
away Negroes like so many shillings or dollars :
this ruinous practice is now only carried on in pri
vate. The planters look upon Themselves as a rank
altogether above merchants and traders, and pos
sess many high-flown notions. The unlimited
power they exercise over their slaves, has a ten
dency no doubt to render them haughty and impe
rious. In the country, a stranger of tolerable ad
dress, meets with much civility and kindness ; if so
inclined, he may travel in the back country for
months free of expense. There may perhaps be
something of selfishness in this hospitality, as the
presence of a stranger may serve as a relief to the
sameness of a country life ; in most cases, however,
a desire of being serviceable to others, may be the
prevailing sentiment.
I have more than once experienced genuine
marks of kindness and civility, hot forty miles out
of Charleston, from persons whom I had never seen
previously. Being one of a party of four or five, and
having mistaken our way for several miles, the first

IN THE UNITED STATES. 271
white person we fell in with, sent a servant along
with us as guide, but in a few minutes afterwards
rejoined us, that he might have the satisfaction of
putting us on our way himself; he then insisted on
our returning to dine with him and stay till next
morning. In an hour or two afterwards, having
stopped a few minutes at a canal, until such time
as a boat passed through a lock, a gentleman who
observed we were strangers, invited us to ride eight
or nine miles farther to the place where he resid
ed, and promised to show us any thing curious
which the country afforded, provided we extended
our visit until next day. This hospitable gentle
man would of course have had to entertain our
selves and horses. Such unsolicited kindness, cer
tainly exhibits the kindly feelings of the Carolini
ans in a very prominent degree.
The planters in the low country, generally spend
the summer in town or at the north, the whole of
the flat country being sickly from June till Novem
ber. It is almost certain death for a person resid
ing in the city, to spend only one night a few miles
out of town at this season ; people may travel
through the low country in the mail coach with
safety, provided they keep from sleeping at night,
and two nights at most will place them out of the
reach of the pestilential vapours of these swamps.

272 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
Country people venturing into the city in summer,
run a like risk of falling sick.
The ground upon which Charleston stands, is
elevated only a few feet above high water mark,
and the whole country for about eighty or a hun
dred miles presents an almost unbroken level. Oc
casionally a gentle declivity may be seen like a
long swell of the sea, but not a rock, not even a
stone as large as a man's head is to be seen in the
low country; at the distance of a hundred miles
from the coast, the land gradually rises into emi
nences, and about two hundred miles up, there are
considerable mountains. The upper part of the
State is beautifully interspersed with hill and dale,
and is deemed healthy. The low country is cover
ed with woods, part of which is swampy, rendering
the atmosphere very unhealthy at certain seasons.
Even so early as the month of April, in travelling
through a swamp not twenty miles from Charles
ton, I have been under the necessity of holding a
handkerchief to my nose, to save my olfactories
from the noxious exhalations. Any one who has
experienced the abominable effluvia arising from a
lint-hole in Scotland may form some idea of those
swamps. The roads in Carolina are merely formed by
cutting away through the trees. The soil being sand,
travelling is rendered very heavy and slow. Where

IN THE UNITED STATES. 273
the road crosses a swamp, it is formed of trees, in
driving over which for any considerable time, you
run no small risk of having your bones dislocated ;
even one mile of such travelling is most annoying.
These are sometimes styled corduroy roads.
The woods in Carolina have a most majestic
appearance, the trees of which they consist,
being from one hundred and twenty to one hun
dred and fifty feet and even one hundred and
sixty feet high. I have measured pines which had
yielded to the force of the autumnal hurricanes,
fifty-five yards in length, although the trunk did not
exceed' twenty inches in diameter, but as straight
as can be imagined ; these serve well for masts and
yards. Many trees of the hardwood kind, are cover
ed from the topmost branch down to the ground,
with a kind of long grey moss, which hangs down
in festoons, and gives a venerable appearance to
these " monarchs of the wood." This moss is very
useful ; after being well beaten, it makes an excel
lent substitute for horse-hair, in stuffing mattresses,
chairs, and other articles of household furniture.
It forms a considerable article of commerce, great j
quantities of it being shipped to the northern j
States. /
The roads through the forests are in some places
straight for along distance, and appear like an in-

274 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
terminable lane enclosed on each side by a wall of
vast height. There is consequently little to attract
the attention of a traveller in these woods. Great
flocks of red birds and the gambols of the squirrel
occasionally enliven the scene, and a field of cot
ton now and then gives a relief to the sameness of
the wilderness. The Negroes who work in the
fields, have tasks assigned to them daily; and I have
heard a Jamaica planter remark, that the appear
ance of a gang of Negroes at work in the West
Indies, where they keep close together and enliven
the hours of labour by singing, is much livelier than
in Carolina.
I recollect being somewhat struck, by the ap
pearance of a country church about twenty-five
miles from Charleston. It was a small wooden
building situated about an hundred yards off the
public road, and of course almost concealed in the
forest. The door of this church was merely fas
tened with a latch ; there were no glazed windows
in it, much less was it adorned in the interior with
any ornament, nor did the peal of the organ ever
disturb the silence that reigned in this remote cor
ner. The communion table stood in the middle of
the area, surrounded by forms ; and I learned that
it was customary for travellers (as there was no
inn within several miles,) to sit down and regale

IN THE UNITED STATES. 275
themselves with what provender they might have
along with them. Our party preferred taking
their collation by the brink of a well of delicious
water. I found a large bible and a psalm book
lying openly on the desk, and it surely must be al
lowed, that such a circumstance as this indicates
in a powerful degree, the correct and decorous
feeling of the people in general. Without draw
ing direct comparisons, I think it is somewhat
doubtful, if even the sanctity of the house Of God
would protect the bible in such an open situation
in some countries.
The planters in Carolina are accustomed to !
good living, without being at much expense in pro
viding luxuries for the table; their own estates
supplying them with abundance of beef, mutton,
pork, poultry, &c. and the forests with a variety
of game. Deer are plenty, and there is little diffi
culty in shooting them. Wild turkeys are reck
oned superior in flavour to the domestic kind, and
are common enough in most places. I have seen
one of 35 lb. weight put down at dinner. A bird
of this size was brought to the inn where I lodged
a few nights. When held up by the legs at arm's
length, the head of this animal reached the ground :
the spurs on its legs were four or five inches long.
The man who shot this turkey remained out all

276 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
night on the watch in the swamp. This would
prove very injurious to an European, but has no
effect on a Carolinian woodsman. He informed
me that he imitated the gobbling of the turkey,
and by that means kept the game close to him all
night, and at day break perceived it perched upon
a tree. He generally used a single ball on these oc
casions. I was informed that turkeys of fifty-five
or sixty lbs. weight had been shot in Carolina. They
generally go in flocks, and run upon the ground
with amazing speed.
There are no hares in America, at least of the
same species as the European, but an animal of an
appearance something between that of a hare and
a rabbit is common enough : their flavour is not
very exquisite. Squirrels and opossums are served
at table occasionally, and racoons are sometimes
eaten by the Negroes. I have tasted one for experi
ment sake, but would hardly be induced to repeat
the operation.
In the wilder parts of the country, both bears and
wolves are sometimes found to make incursions on
the domestic tribe, but there is little danger to be
apprehended from them to mankind. In the low
country, alligators of a large size swarm in the
rivers and swamps ; they are sometimes found from
ten to thirteen feet in length, and generally appear

IN THE UNITED STATES. 277
floating on the surface of the water or lying on the
bank of a river like a log of timber ; they make
no scruple of seizing deer, dogs, &c. whilst in the
water, but seldom attack animals on dry land. A
Negro woman many years ago, had her leg bit off
by one of these creatures, whilst bathing in a river
of Carolina. They are far from exhibiting such
ferocity as the crocodile of the Nile, but their ap
pearance is not a whit less forbidding.
There are a great variety of snakes in Carolina,
some of them of a venomous nature. The rattle
snake is the most dreaded, but few fatal accidents
occur from this tribe, as they invariably give warn
ing before biting, except in wet seasons. People
who work in places exposed to these animals, wear
leggings of very thick woollen, which absorb the
poison before the teeth can reach the skin. The
poison of the rattlesnake is injected through the
teeth, (not by means of the sting or tongue,) which
are tubular, at the moment the wound is inflicted ;
in some cases, death has ensued in the course of an
hour after the bite of this reptile has been in
flicted. Much has been said regarding the power posr
sessed by snakes of charming their prey ; from my
own experience, I would be inclined to think that
this is partly true. I have come across many
2 a

278 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
snakes in my rambles through the woods in differ
ent parts of America, and must confess, that at the
first moment of encountering one, I felt as if rivet-
ted to the spot, and could hardly draw my eyes off
it for some time ; I also felt a sort of sensation
creep over me, very like to a cold fit of the ague,
but in my own case invariably attended with an
irresistible impulse to trample upon them with my
boot, for I never wore shoes in my walks through
the woods of America.
These reptiles upon the whole, are certainly ra
ther disagreeable concomitants to a country life in
America, but even in some parts of our own happy
Scotland, I have seen considerable apprehension
entertained from the common adder.
While upon an excursion to the country about
fifty miles from Charleston, in April, 1820, I was
much struck with the interesting and out-of-the-
way situation of an inn, where I spent a few days.
The landlady owned a farm and about forty Ne
groes, but there was not above ten acres of land
cleared close to the house ; the prospect from the
door was consequently very circumscribed, and I
think that the sun was not visible over the top. of
the pine trees, for fully an hour after it had risen
above the horizon. The Negro huts are general
ly built in one or two rows, forming a little street ;

IN THE UNITED STATES. 279
and I saw one man who was employed in erecting
a new hut after his task was over : he wrought even
so late as ten o'clock at night by the light of a fire,
and seemed to handle his saw and plane with con
siderable dexterity.
About sunset, the different flocks of domestic
animals, which had been ranging for food through
the woods during the whole day, appeared at the
outer fence ; there was, firstly, a few cows, one of
them with a bell around its neck, than a flock of
sheep, the old ram similarly accoutred, also a flock
of goats, then a complete regiment of turkeys fol
lowed by a great flock of geese, common poultry,
&c. the whole of these animals kept up an inces
sant noise until admitted to their respective pens.
I was informed that there was little trouble in rear
ing these usefubcreatures, and it was very seldom
that any went amissing. I observed two enormous
dogs about the house, one of which was much dis
figured with wounds about the head; the landlady
informed me that about two months previously, she
had been much pestered by a large wolf, which
came in to the yard at night, and committed some
damage among the sheep. The two dogs had suf
fered greatly from a severe engagement which took
place one night with this ravenous animal. It was
shot at last one moon-light night from an upper
\ 2 a 2

280 six years' residence
window by a person who was in th e inn, and was found
to measure five feet in length exclusive of the tail.
At this early season, the lady of the inn apolo
gised to us for the want of strawberries, her crop
having been all consumed the week previously.
At night the deep bellow of the bullfrog, and the
mournful, yet pleasing cry of the whip-poor-will,
resounded incessantly throughout the dreary soli
tude of the forest. The name of this bird is very
appropriate'; one would almost think it articulated
the name whip-poor-will.
In a corn field here, I observed an old Negro
who had outlived a hundred years ; his sole occu
pation for about three weeks at this season, was to
stand from sunrise to sunset in the field, and
cry out occasionally to frighten the crows. He was
an African, and could not understand one word I
spoke to him; I offered him a small silver coin,
at which he only shook his head ; but my brother,
who was along with me, pulled out a piece of to
bacco, which the old man instantly accepted of.
Before steam-boats came into general use, an
immense number of waggons were employed in
conveying country produce to Charleston; this
trade is however now greatly knocked up, to the
great detriment of many of the store-keepers in the
upper part of the city.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 281
These waggons are large, generally drawn by
four, five, or six horses. Mules are sometimes
yoked to the same carriage as horses, and as such
a waggon has at least two drivers, it happens that
they are occasionally of different complexions,
forming altogether a strange groupe. The wag
goners are very hardy, frequently sleeping out all
night; at sunset they generally encamp near to a
tavern and unyoke their horses ; with the assist
ance of an axe, they have a large fire blazing in a few
minutes, and as they carry their provisions along
with them, commence making supper, which con-/
sists of coarse bread, bacon, coffee, &c. after this/
they throw themselves on the ground with their
feet towards the fire ; should it rain, they contrive
to sleep under the waggon. The appearance of
these men in general is not altogether prepossess
ing, although many of them are civil and intelligent.
They are sometimes rather too apt to exhibit
proofs of their rudeness to strangers or towns,
people who may happen to travel alone, asking
them impertinent questions, such as where they are
going, what is their business, how much they have
paid for the coat on their back, &c. and sometimes
proceeding greater lengths. A company of these
carriers have been known to force a gentleman to
come out of his gig, strip to the skin, and walk
2 a 3

282 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
backwards and forwards through a pool of dirty
water for their amusement. We might however
as soon estimate the politeness of Scotsmen from a
band of colliers or coal porters.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 2S3

CHAPTER XVIII.

AUCTIONEERS — SALE OF NEGROES — TREATMENT OF DO. — PUNISH
MENT OF DO  BAD HABITS OF DO  INSURRECTION OF NEGEORS IN
1822 — EXECUTIONS OF DO. — EFFECTS OF RELIGION — REVENGEFUL
FEELINGS OF NEGROES.

A great part of the business done in Charles
ton is by public auction. There is a street appro
priated for this purpose. When the weather per
mits, goods offered for sale, are exposed upon a
table, placed upon the pavement before the vendue
masters store. The auctioneer has generally a per
son called a crier to assist him, who thunders upon
the table with a small mallet, and bawls out the re
spective bodes of intending purchasers, with won
derful vociferation, each endeavouring to attract
most customers by being noisy. I remember of
having seen one of these criers who procured a
tambourine, with which he rattled away in style,
to the no small discomfiture of his brethren. The
more respectable auctioneers are fair enough in
their business, but some of them are not very scru-

284 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
pulous about the means they use to obtain a good
price for their commodities, by bidding upon the
goods themselves, and causing the crier to bawl
out prices far above any thing that is actually of
fered. Perhaps a countryman strolling about
these sales, thinking that an article is cheap, as
people are bidding so fast, inadvertently puts in
his word, when instantly the article is knocked
down to him at double its value. The owner of
the goods may bid as often as he chooses upon his
own merchandise, and call them in altogether at
his option.
The sale of Negroes is a circumstance of almost
daily occurrence, and of course attracts the notice
of a stranger. The poor creatures are caused to
stand upon the auctioneer's table, who, mounted
alongside of them, states their qualifications, age,
&c. generally warranting them " sound, sober, ho
nest, and no runaway." Intending purchasers
in the meantime are busily employed in putting
various questions to the slave, and ascertaining, by
handling them somewhat in the same manner as a
butcher does an ox, whether they have ulcers, or
such like disease about them ; and in the case of
females, endeavouring to find out whether they
are likely to have a numerous progeny. The fair
sex do not scruple to attend these sales now and

IN THE UNITED STATES. 285
then, nor are they at times very refined in their
manipulations. I may state an incident on this
subject, which was related to me by a young lady
from Scotland,; who, shortly after her arrival in
Charleston, while- perambulating the streets with a
native lady, was astonished by the latter stopping
a Negro woman, and inquiring to whom she be
longed ? The black, dropping a curtsey, but
drawing her head up with some importance, re
plied, " Me belong to nobody, Ma'am ; I do be
free woman, Ma'am." The young lady inquiring
at her Carolinian friend the reason for which she
addressed the Negress ? received for answer, " Oh,
nothing at all very particular ; only I am in want
of a smart wench, and that woman looked as if
she could bring up a clever young family ! !" This
lady moved in one of the first circles in Charles
ton. In most cases, the slaves who are exposed for
sale seem to feel the ignominy of their situation ;•
females, who are invariably styled " Wenches,"
seldom standing the exhibition without tears, and
regarding every bid with intense anxiety, much of
their future comfort depending upon the person
into whose hands they fall. Families are general
ly sold together in one lot ; but in some cases,
where a division of property takes place amongst

286 six years' residence
heirs, they are unavoidably separated. In 1817,
I saw a woman exposed for sale, who seemed
amazingly agitated, and rent the air with her
screams ; in consequence of which, the auctioneer,
in spite of all his exertions to soothe her, was
obliged to stop the sale, and dismount from the
table. The sale was postponed for some time.
In this case, the auctioneer (a Scotsman) seemed
to feel a good deal for the poor woman, and
showed much tenderness towards her, even clap
ping her upon the shoulder to encourage her to
stand quiet until the sale was over ; but I could
not help comparing his behaviour, humane as it
was, to that of some tender hearted Jack- Ketch,
using a few blandishments to some poor fellow
whom he was inducing to allow the halter to be
put round his neck with a good grace. The Ca
rolinians, however, excuse themselves for thus
rending asunder the tenderest links of humanity,
by saying, " Oh, there is no danger of a Nigger
being at a loss for a wife, or a wench in finding a
husband upon any estate." It is true that the
Negroes are not excessively punctilious in regard
to their marriages, such a ceremony seldom tak
ing place ; but in many cases, they are as faithful
and affectionate as if the Pope himself had given
them his benediction. In all cases, the children

in the united states. 287
of both sexes belong to the owner of the mother ;
the real father, in many instances, being a very
doubtful matter.
I have seen slaves sold who were hardly distin
guishable from a white person. I remember of
having seen a pretty little boy, apparently white,
brought to the hammer : he was bought by his
own mother for two hundred dollars. In this case,
the price was very low, but no one present had
the inhumanity to bid against the parent. The
price of Negroes varies in general with the price
of cotton and rice. In 1817, I saw afamilycon-
sisting of father, mother, and nine children ; the
youngest at the breast, the eldest grown up : they
brought eight hundred dollars (.§£180) each over
head. Cotton at this time was 34 cents per lb.
In 1827, when cotton was at 11 or 12 cents per
lb. the same lot would not have commanded more
than three hundred to three hundred and fifty
dollars overhead. The highest price which I ever
saw obtained for one Negro was fifteen hundred
and thirty dollars, (,s£344 5s.) which was paid for
a stout young fellow, a cooper, in 1817. In 1823,
I saw two very old women sold for thirty-five dol
lars each {£1 17s. 6d.) An occurrence which
came under my observation a few day's after my
first arrival in America, excited my astonishment

288 six years' residence
not a little. I was standing in a weighing-house,
upon one of the wharfs, when a gentleman came
in, followed by a little boy, to whom he instantly
said, " Take off your trowsers, my boy." What,
in the name of wonder, can this mean, thought I.
The gentleman perceiving my surprise, said,
" Oh, I only wished to see if he was sound ; I
was coming past Vendue just now, and being in
want of a boy, bid six hundred dollars for him ; I
guess he's worth as much." This little story
may appear strange to some people, I doubt not,
but I can honestly assure such, that instead of ex
aggerating, I have very materially curtailed some
part of it, some little pruning being absolutely re
quisite to render it fit for the eye of delicacy.
The gentleman I refer to was a Methodist preach
er, but also a very considerable merchant.
Much has been said and written on the subject
of slavery. The advocates of this outrage on the
natural rights of man, have generally been men,
who, regardless of the feelings of a race by them
deemed a little superior only to the brute creation,
and designed by nature merely as instruments to
promote the gratification of their avarice, have sel
dom been at a loss to advance plausible reasons jn
favour of their usurping the right of dominion
over these unfortunate beings. Slavery, in the

in' the united states. 289
abstract, has seldom been advocated by men of
common humanity; but merely as a necessary evil
unavoidably attendant upon the proper cultivation
of certain districts of the globe producing luxuries
almost indispensable to the existence of the refined
portion of mankind. Without pretending to dive
into the merits of a subject so often discussed by
able hands, I will endeavour with truth and can
dour, to delineate, in a summary manner, the ac
tual state of the Negroes in Carolina.
In the first place, they are as much under the
dominion of their owners as cattle or horses ; and,
in some instances, not so well treated. These cases,
however, are but rare, as their masters, from mo
tives of self-interest, furnish them with a certain
portion of food, and a sufficient quantity of clothing.
In the country, on most estates, they are allowed
somewhat more than a quart of Indian corn per
day, and a little salt, but rarely any fish or animal
food. Those who are house servants in town,
live comparatively well ; and such as are trades
men have little reason to complain on this score,
their appearance indicating any thing but starva
tion. A common plan adopted by slave owners
in town, is to furnish, for example, one of their
Negroes with a horse and cart, which the fellow
plies with in the. streets, and pays his master so
2 B

290 six years' residence
many dollars per month out of his earnings ; the
balance he keeps to himself, and lives as he may
choose. I have seen many instances of their hav
ing been enabled in this manner to lay up as much
money in the course of a few years, as procured
their freedom. On the other hand, I know for a
fact, that the avarice and inhumanity of some plant
ers, a few years ago, induced them to try the
experiment of feeding their slaves with cotton seed,
(an article which hogs refuse). Their brutality
met with a suitable reward ; but at the expense of
the lives of some of their wretched Negroes.
In the next place, although the law restricts the
punishment of slaves to the infliction of thirty-nine
lashes on any one day, yet they are often beat and
bruised without mercy, and have, in several in
stances, fallen victims to the rage of their inhuman
masters. A certain man in Charleston, who piques
himself upon his severity to his Negroes, fre
quently ties them up by the thumbs to receive the
lash. His house has been styled by some of his
countrymen, the Inquisition; and can it be read
without horror, this man (savage I mean) is a na
tive of Scotland, but surely unworthy of the name.
Another person in the same place punished his
Negroes who were in the habit of running away,
by causing their teeth to be pulled out; and there

IN THE UNITED STATES. 291
is A wretch in the shape of a Captain S  , who
is well known in Charleston, who deliberately
committed murder, by forcing one of his slaves to
cut off the head of his comrade on board of a ves
sel which belonged to him, which was out at sea
at the. time. This monster walks openly in the
blessed light of day, unbranded with the mark of
murderer. The penalty of causing the death of a
Negro is, by law, a fine of aSlOO, and the paying
down his value. This humane and equitable law,
the Carolinians say was entailed upon them along
with a few other blessings from their British an
cestors. Another monster in the shape of huma
nity, who had murdered a Negro, and was brought
to trial, threw down the money in Court with great
composure, and defied them to do any thing far
ther to him. I have heard, to be sure, (but I
could never yet ascertain it to be more than mere
report) that a law was proposed, or had actually
passed in Carolina, declaring' the killing of a
Negro to be punishable as murder ; but even were
such a law passed, and a Negro to be killed every
week in the year, no such thing as a conviction
would take place against a white man, — and why ?
because the evidence of a Negro is of no conse
quence against a white.
The fair sex also exercise their talents sometimes
2 b 2

292 six years' residence
in beating and flogging their Negroes. There
is one lady in Charleston, (if that title can be ap
plied to a she demon) beneath whose blows a
young woman was sent to Pluto. This honest wo
man seemed afterwards a little sorry, and said she
expected the girl could have stood more ! ! Ano
ther mistress of a family in the same city, who
owns a considerable number of slaves, boasts that
she has a flogging match almost every day in her
yard, nor is she at all backward in asserting
that she can handle a cowskin as well as any he in
Charleston ; but enough upon this subject. God
forbid that the foregoing should be an example of
the general treatment of slaves in Charleston. In
stating the above, however, I am unapprehensive
of being contradicted on the subject, as I have
said nothing but what I know to be truth, and
were it at all necessary, I could particularize the
parties. Wherever slavery dwells, its concomi
tant evils must attend its footsteps, and the best
and the most humane amongst mankind will im
perceptibly become callous to the feelings of a
race whom they are taught to look upon from their
cradle, as an inferior species. Another thing must
be confessed, and that is, that mild measures seem
to have little effect upon the generality of Negroes.
In families, where they are most indulged, they

IN THE UNITED STATES. 293
are invariably the worst servants, and even get in
solent where they meet with much attention. I
have seen this exemplified but too often. I was
acquainted with a lady in Charleston, who was re
markably indulgent to her slaves, yet they were
most undoubtedly the worst gang in the city : As
one proof of which, three of them were executed
at the discovery of the Negro plot.
Negroes in general, are rather too much addict
ed to the habits of lying'and stealing. Little pains
is, however, taken by their superiors, to inculcate
the principles of morality in their darkened minds.
It is true that they are not prohibited to attend
church ; but the person who would dare to teach
a Negro to read, subjects himself to a severe pe
nalty. This law, the Carolinians say, was another
legacy from the British. This may, perhaps, be
the case ; but have they invariably copied the laws
of their ancestors, where they lean to the side of
liberality or virtue ? It may, of course, be ex
pected, that the Negroes are very ignorant. This
is certainly "the case ; although, in a few instances,
they can both read and write. Those who have
attained these acquirements, have been taught in
private. In the country, Negroes are not in general com
pelled to very severe labour. Upon cotton estates,
2b 3

294 six years' residence
for instance, a certain task is allotted to them, viz. :
105 feet square, or a fraction more than a rood
English measure. Hoeing is the principal opera
tion in plantations here ; and an expert or indus
trious Negro may have his task completed by two
or' three o'clock in the afternoon : he is then at
liberty to do as he chooses. They have usually a
small portion of land allowed them along with
their hut, upon which they raise vegetables, and
occasionally they keep a pig or two, and some
poultry. When their task is over, they sometimes
improve the evening by fishing, or in snaring
squirrels and rabbits, which they take to market,
and procure themselvesi a little tobacco or grog.
Under these circumstances, the condition of the
Negro is not so very destitute of enjoyment as
might be imagined. Their owner generally gives
them sufficient clothings and as there is little se
vere weather in this climate, they seem tolerably
comfortable in this respect. Slavery is, however,
but a bitter pill, however gilded, and that the Ne
groes are not insensible to the charms of liberty,
is very apparent, from their visible discontent un
der the thraldom of their oppressors, and their re
peated attempts at insurrection.
The last and' most deep laid plot to throw off
the yoke of their masters, and at the same time to

IN THE UNITED STATES. 295
glut their revenge, took place, or rather was brought
to light in 1822. The ringleaders of this scheme
were some of them men Of considerable talents, who
conducted their secret machinations with a good
deal of ingenuity, but certainly no very great share
of foresight or prudence ; for even had they suc
ceeded in overwhelming the white population of
Charleston for a time, they could have stood
but for a short period indeed, against the whole
force of the United States, which would have been
inevitably directed against them. The intentions
of the conspirators were discovered to be of the
most desperate nature ; on a certain day they were
to set fire to the city in many different places at
once, attack the guard house, and after possessing
-themselves of all the arms they could lay their
hands on, then to commence an indiscriminate
slaughter of every white male, and every black
woman, reserving all the choice young white ladies
as companions to their sable conquerors. Amongst
the papers of the conspirators, lists were discover
ed containing the names of many of the most accom
plished young ladies in the city, who- were reserv
ed to a fate ten thousand times more horrible than
death in its worst form. A fellow who was coach
man to one of the highest authorities in Charleston,
had his master's daughter designated as his intend-

296 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
ed wife, and it was his intention to save the life of
his master, as he said that excepting himself, " Mas-
sa was the best whip hand in the city, and would
answer extremely well to drive his coach."
The plot was discovered by one of the conspira
tors, who was determined upon saving his master
from the general massacre, but as his comrades
would not consent to this, he gave the information
to a proper quarter, when the whole affair was in
stantly blown up, and about three hundred Negroes
arrested and tried forthwith ; about forty of these
were executed without delay. Twenty-two were
led to execution one morning, and this operation
was performed with very little ceremony. The
chief amongst them addressed his fellow Negroes
who came to witness the scene, conjuring them to
remain true to the cause of freedom, and to prose
cute their plans against their white tyrants, to the
death ; those who suffered seemed to take the matter
quite easy. One fellow who thought the execu
tioners were very dilatory, and did not seem to re
lish the idea of standing so long with the rope about
his neck, bawled out to the captain of the city
guard, " Massa D  you take us here for hang,
why you keep us waiting all day, do hang us Mas
sa or let us go home for work." The request of
this poor sinner was speedily complied with, but

IN THE UNITED STATES. 297
that in a very bungling manner, the plank upon
which the wretches stood not descending low
enough, several of them were kept for some minutes
with their feet dangling on it.
The discovery of this plot caused much conster
nation in Charleston, especially amOngst the fair
sex, who differ very much in opinion from Desde-
mona. Although many white men evince a wonder
ful inclination for black women, I never could
yet learn of but one instance, wherein a white wo
man was captivated by a Negro, and this was said
to have taken place in Virginia ; a planter's daugh
ter having fallen in love with one of her father's
slaves, had actually seduced him; the result of this
amour, Was the sudden mysterious disappearance of
the young lady.
The Negroes have been laying plots, and con
triving schemes of rebellion for many years back,
and the white inhabitants have much need to be
on their guard. The Negroes will plot as long as
they are in bondage, and their sudden emancipa
tion would be quite as bad. Talk to a Carolinian
of emancipating the Negroes, and he will answer
" What ! let loose nearly two million devils with a
knife in one hand and a firebrand in the other." If
ever emancipation does take place, it must be by
very gradual steps. Let those who talk of abolish-

298 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
ing slavery all at once, stay but for one twelve
month in Carolina, and they will see the propriety
of using much caution in granting slaves their free
dom. The Negroes upon the whole, seem as comforta
ble as the labouring classes of people in other
countries, only the horrible idea of being another
man's property, and subject to be beat and abused
as the caprice of his tyrant may dictate. There
are, however, thousands of families in Carolina,
where the sound of the lash is unknown. Upon
the plantations there are many Negroes who are
inferior overseers, and these are in general more
unmerciful to their fellow slaves than white over
seers. A mulatto estimates himself greatly above
a Negro, and it is amusing to hear a fellow who is
only half a mulatto, abusing a Negro about as
white as himself, calling him  black rascal, and
such like courteous appellations.
In one view of the matter, however strange it
may at first seem, the blacks are much better off
than in their native Africa. Heaven knows that I
am far from being an advocate for slavery or op
pression in any shape, but I trust that there can be
no harm in stating a few facts, which I could not
avoid perceiving. I have repeatedly heard Negro
slaves express their great happiness, that ever they

IN THE UNITED STATES. 299
were brought to a land where the sound of the
gospel is heard, and where the glad tidings of sal
vation are preached to freemen and slaves alike.
I have often put the question to both male and fe
male slaves, who were grown up long before they
were imported from Africa, whether they would
not prefer being sent back to their own country ?
Their answer almost invariably has been, " No,
Massa ; me like well 'nuff to see old friends, but
me not like go back to wild Africa now ; me Chris
tian now, Massa."
~ I have seen men who had visited their native
Africa during the continuance of the slave trade,
and who might have remained there if so inclined,
but said, " Africa too bad place for us now ; Ne-
ger all do run naked there, we like to go decent
like Christian." Now, to contemplate matters in
this light, let it be considered, that in Africa, the
Negro in general, stands in no very exalted sta
tion, excepting the chiefs : the rest are mere slaves,
and their continual warfare with each other fur
nished the slave ships with cargoes of their re
spective prisoners. Be their situation, however,
in their own country as it may, that is no vindica
tion for making them slaves in America or the
West Indies ; but what would Mr Wilberforce,
or any good man who believes in his bible, say to

300 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
the Negro, who expressed his happiness at being
brought within the influence of the gospel ? It
surely could not be said, " Better that you had
retained your freedom in Africa, along with your
darkness and ignorance of the. blessed gospel."
Can we reasonably or charitably suppose, that the
gospel has been, and is now preached in vain to
thousands and tens of thousands [of Negroes in
America and the West Indies ? On the contrary,
there is great reason to hope, that amongst the
thousands of poor slaves who attend divine wor
ship in these countries, there are many, very many,
who have been turned from darkness to the mar
vellous light of the gospel ; and it is no presump
tive assertion to say, that thousands have blessed
the hour in which, although their bodies were de
graded with the fetters of bondage, their souls
were emancipated from slavery and perdition.
To plunge our fellow creatures into misery and
slavery for the good of their souls, is, however, ra
ther an unsound argument, and would merely be
adding the sin of hypocrisy to that of avarice ; it
would be doing evil that good might arise. Such
arguments, however, have been broached by the
abettors of slavery* who say, moreover, that they
are endeavouring to fulfil the scripture, by forcing
sinners to come in. It is their own unworthy

IN THE UNITED STATES. 301
ends they are serving : little do they care for the
salvation of the poor Negroes. Be this, however,
as it may, overlooking the means, let us look to
the result, and admire the wisdom of Providence
in saving the soul of many a benighted heathen.
If but one soul has been saved out of a hundred
Africans who have been made slaves, will not the
everlasting joy of the one overbalance the tempo
rary misery of the rest? but no thanks to the ava
ricious slave dealer.
In their tempers, the Negroes are somewhat
obstinate, and will go great lengths to be revenged
on those who have injured them. An instance or
two may be quoted. A Negro who attended the
store of a dry-goods merchant in Charleston, and
who was treated with considerable confidence,
having one day received a few blows with a cane
from his master for some fault or mistake, took
this insult, as he deemed it, so deeply to heart,
that he went deliberately to the yard behind his
master's house, and taking up a hatchet, chopped
off his right hand. His owner, however, has con
trived to reap some advantage from the remaining
hand, and the slave now works as a painter. In
1826, a case came under my own observation. A
Negro woman who considered herself not exactly
well treated by her mistress, said she would be re-
2 c

302 six years' residence
revenged on her in some shape or other, and in
spite of every precaution, actually poisoned her
self and her infant child !
I may also mention an instance of what may, at
all events, be called acute feeling. A Negro boy
who belonged to a store in which there were seve
ral young white men as clerks, was repeatedly
struck and abused by a young puppy who was
about his own age. One day as the young tyrant
was engaged in this laudable amusement, the gen
tleman to whom the store belonged coming in, in
quired what was the matter ? The young gentle
man said nothing ; but the Negro boy burst into
tears, exclaiming, " I wish to God, Sir, I was
white just for one half hour, that I might lick that
fellow." The sentiments of this Negro, however
revengeful or unchristian, would have been ap
plauded in Rome or Sparta.
The punishment by law, inflicted upon a Negro
for striking a white man, is to have his right hand
cut off.
Regarding the free coloured population in
Charleston, of whom there are about 3000, in
many cases they are much worse off than the
slaves. In general, they keep a small shop or
stand; but in most cases, enjoy but few of the
comforts of life. A rich Mulatto man who keeps

IN THE UNITED STATES. 303
a boarding-house, petitioned the legislature for
leave to keep a coach ; but this could not be al
lowed. There are many other privileges which
the white inhabitants enjoy, from which they are
debarred on account of their colour. After the
discovery of the plot in 1822, a law was enacted,
which almost completely puts it out of the power
of any person to emancipate a slave ; it cannot be
done .without an application to the legislature,
and it will only be granted in some very particu
lar case. The Negro who discovered the plot, re
ceived his freedom and a thousand dollars as re
ward : he was soon afterwards poisoned, it was
said, by some of the conspirators.

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304 six years' residence

CHAPTER XIX.

INDIANS — SALUBRITY OF CHARLESTON — DRINKING — BAD TEETH,
&C. — FIRES — EXECUTIONS — WATCHMEN.

There are now but a few scattered Indians to be
met with in Carolina. Those who at any time
visit Charleston, are generally the most worthless
and dissolute of their tribe. They contrive to
procure some old clothes and a blanket from the
charitably disposed, or in exchange for some of
their rude manufactures. They are generally tall
and thin, but straight, with long black hair hang
ing down their back like a horse's tail. I once
saw a General M'Intosh accompanied by about a
dozen attendants. He was a good-natured look
ing big fellow, with a face in shape not unlike one
of the leaden tickets used by the Sun-fire Office.
His nose, chin, and forehead were well plastered
with red paint. A large plume of feathers on his
head distinguished him from the people.
The men are usually furnished with a bow and
arrows, and will hit the smallest coin at a conside-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 305
xable distance. They always prefer sleeping on
the ground, or in a shed, to a dwelling-house.
With all their poverty, they look upon the Ne
groes with ineffable contempt. A party of Semi
nole chiefs who visited Charleston in 1826, were,
some of them, noble-looking men, particularly one
who was above six feet high, and. formed like a
Hercules. This man-had quite a Roman counte
nance, and walked with much dignity. His dress
was most superb, being adorned with silks, ribbons,
feathers, and an inconceivable quantity of beads.
Some of these chiefs in Florida, and the back
part of Georgia, are men possessed of great wealth
in cattle, horses, &c. I knew a gentleman who,
in his journey to New Orleans, through the wil
derness, was handsomely entertained at the houses
of different chiefs, and in one particular instance,
where he made a stay of a few days, the daughters
of his Indian host amused him with their perform
ance on the piano ! !
Regarding the salubrity of Charleston, it may
be remarked that excepting when the yellow fever
makes its appearance, the town is fully as healthy
as any in the United States. This disease does not
commit such extensive ravages as it used to do for
merly, owing to the streets being kept remarkably
clean ; and every regulation conducive to the h eal th of
2 c 3

306 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
the inhabitants is enforced by the proper authorities.
There are few dunghills in the city; all offal, gars-
bage, &c. must be laid in the streets early every
morning, whence it is quickly conveyed away in
carts ; and any fragments of animal matter, such as
dead dogs or cats, are speedily devoured by what
may be called the natural scavengers of Charleston,
namely, a species of vulture, and turkey buzzards,
a kind of animal very useful in warm climates.
These birds roost in the woods near the city, but
come in regularly before sunrise and remain till
sunset. They are to be seen in great numbers
about the market, and are quite tame ; a penalty of
£5 being exacted from the person who intention
ally kills one of them. In spite of every precau
tion, the yellow fever makes its appearance here
every few years ; but whether it is imported from
other places or originates from local causes, has
never been exactly determined. It was very fatal
in 1817, and again in 1819, 1824, 1827, and 1828.
It differs from the disease called yellow fever in New
York, in so far, that whereas in the former place it
breaks out in one particular quarter and gradually
spreads around; here* it seems chiefly to affect
strangers in different quarters of the city at the
same time. The symptoms of disease and appear-,

IN THE UNITED STATES. 307
ance after death of the patient, seem to be nearly
the same in both places.
When Charleston is free from malignant fever,
the deaths annually amount to eight or nine hun
dred, which cannot be called a great proportion
out of thirty-eight thousand, and a considerable
number of these cases are consumptive patients
from the north, who come to enjoy the mild winter
of Charleston. In such years as the fever prevails,
the deaths are swelled up to twelve hundred and
upwards. The water with which Charleston is supplied, is
by no means considered wholesome. On digging
a few feet deep in any part of the city, water is
found, but generally of a brackish quality, and ra
ther apt to bring on bowel complaints on those
who use it. Rain water which is collected in cis
terns is much more agreeable to drink, but in sum
mer this is apt to produce insects, and it cannot al
ways be depended upon.
The Carolinians have been accused of great in
temperance in drinking. This assertion has most
probably arisen from the very general use of spirits
to correct the bad qualities of the water. The
inhabitants in general keep within the bounds of
moderation; and although a great quantity of strong
liquors are annually consumed in proportion to the

308 six years' residence
population, it has not such a visible effect as might
be expected. Foreigners who have not been ac
customed to such continual soaking, are much more
liable to suffer from its effects than those who are
well seasoned.
The Carolinians are not remarkable for being
long lived; to quote an old proverb, they are " soon
ripe, soon rotten." It may be observed that almost
the whole of the American people have very bad
teeth. Children of three or four years of age may
be seen with the one half of their teeth quite cari
ous, and many persons at the age of thirty have
only a few stumps left. It is a great drawback to
the beauty of the American fair sex. Various cau
ses have been assigned as being conducive to this
disease; amongst others, the excessive use of sweet
meats and fruit among the female sex, and smok
ing and chewing tobacco to a great degree by the
men. It rather seems to be an inherent quality
in the climate, as people who abstain from all
these practices are not exempt from it. In speak
ing of national defects or diseases, it ought to be
mentioned that " king's evil" is an uncommon dis
ease in America ; and I have often heard it remark
ed by strangers that there are few of that class
which we call "innocents" in Scotland, or born
ideots, to be found in America. Several kinds of

IN THE UNITED STATES. 309
madness from other causes, especially that species
termed Mania-a-potu, or madness from drinking,
is increasing greatly.
Negroes agree well with the climate of Carolina,
and many of them arrive at a great age ; a woman
died near Charleston a few years ago, who was a
hundred and thirty-six years of age, and I have
spoken to a Negro man upwards of a hundred and
ten who seemed quite hearty, his hair and beard
were white as snow.
It would appear as if nature had adapted the
Negroes for working under the rays of a powerful
sun. I have repeatedly seen Negroes bare headed,
lying asleep under the direct rays of that luminary
at mid-day, whilst at the same time, an European,
at least an Englishman, could not have stood in the
same place for only a few minutes, without running
the risk of a " coup de soleil" or being sun struck.
Nature seems no less lavish in befriending Ne
groes with a skull of such strength and thickness,
as renders that organ almost as insensible to the
effects of a good hard blow thereon, as it seems
impervious to the rays of the sun. I have seen
two Negroes quarrel in the street, run back a few
paces from each other, and then with great force
and velocity bring their heads in contact, causing
a noise somewhat akin to that produced by the sud-

310 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
den rapping together of two heavy wooden mallets.
They have been seen frequently to send their cra
nium through a pretty strong wooden door with
the velocity of a cannon ball ; and I cannot say
whether my astonishment or laughter was most ex
cited on seeing a Negro wench take a piece of
wood (which I am certain I could not have broken
with a heavy stamp with my foot,) by the two ends,
and bring it down upon the crown of her head
with a sudden jerk which instantly snapt it in two.
I have known gentlemen, who having in the bene
volence of their hearts applied their fist in a sum
mary way to the head of a young Negro by way of
chastisement, found their knuckles to have received
the worst part of the bargain, while the only ex
pression of uneasiness on the part of the Negro,
was displayed by a slight scratch or two of the
head. The greater part of the houses in Charleston
being built of wood, fires are consequently very
destructive in their effects. In the winter of 1825
— 6, a great number of serious conflagrations took
place; for some weeks there were two or three
alarms of fire every night, and generally with suf
ficient cause. Sixty or seventy large houses were
burnt to the ground in a few hours one night, and
about three months afterwards as many more.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 311
Such a conflagration presents a very sublime, al
though melancholy spectacle. The houses are
generally covered with shingles, (thin slips of wood
laid on in the same way as slates, ) so that in a short
time after a fire breaks out, the whole building ap
pears one complete body of flame both inside and
outside. I have seen houses on the opposite side
of a street eighty feet wide, take fire from the in
tense heat of the burning houses. When there is
a high wind there is hardly a possibility of putting
a stop to the mischief, until some large vacant
space may chance to occur ; and water is very often
scarce. A common method practised, is to blow up
two or three houses so as to cause a space where
the fire may be arrested, this is done by putting a
barrel of gunpowder in the lower part of the house
fixed upon, and setting fire to it by means of a
train ; accidents frequently occur from these ex
plosions, as the crowd have generally very little
time to retire to a suitable distance. The most of
these fires are occasioned by incendiaries, who ex
pect to make good plunder, during the confusion.
The Negroes get a due share of credit in these
transactions, and not altogether without cause.
In 1826, I witnessed the execution of a young
fellow, who having received a whipping for some
fault, was determined to square accounts with hi

312 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
master who was a clergyman, and accordingly set
fire to his stable one evening. This soon com
municated to several buildings, and caused consid
erable mischief. There was about as much cere
mony observed in executing this poor wretch, as
would be done by a dozen of young blackguards
in hanging a mangy dog. No minister attended
the poor fellow to the fatal gibbet, and from the
white people present, he received but little sympa
thy. He very calmly addressed the crowd, confess
ing the justice of his sentence, &c. and looking up
to heaven with much resignation in his counte
nance, expressed his confidence, that although he
would suffer much bodily pain, yet in a few minutes
his soul would be in glory. I heard a white man
who was within a few yards of him, say loud enough
for the poor lad to hear, " You'll be in hell, you
black rascal you."
About two weeks afterwards, another Negro who
was convicted of a similar offence, was brought up
to the same place for execution ; but here a curious
scene occurred. No one could be found to per
form the office of Jack Ketch. The civil officers,
whose business it should have been, were out of the
way, and the intendant of the city would not do it.
He offered one hundred dollars to any one who
would perform the duty ; still no one offered his

IN THE UNITED STATES. 313
services, and the man who had officiated on the
former occasion, swore that he would not unless
the money was first paid him, alleging that he had
only received seven dollars for the former job in
stead of fifteen which had been promised him. In
the meantime, the Negro sat down on the plank
and seemed somewhat to enjoy the affair, and be
gan to joke with his acquaintances who were pre
sent, and to chew tobacco with great deliberation ;
after remaining in this situation for a couple of
hours, he was conducted back to jail and remains
unhanged to this day.
The execution of a white person is of rare oc
currence in Charleston ; several cases of this, how
ever, came under my observation, in the spring of
1820; one of which excited great interest, being
that of a man and his wife for murder and robbery
to an unknown, but awful extent. These people
kept a tavern about six miles from Charleston, and
in concert with some of their associates, had for
years carried on a complete trade of murdering and
robbing altogether unheard of, except perhaps in
Italy in former times. Numbers of people who
had travelled on that road disappeared in a sudden
and mysterious manner ; but " murder will out."
A man from the country arrived at this inn one
evening, and being rather late for town put up for
2 D

314 six years' residence
the night; somehow or other, he kept awake until
midnight, and hearing some discussion carried on
by the people of the house, from whom he was se
parated only by a wooden partition, he listened
more attentively, and to his horror and amazement
heard them disputing as to the most convenient
method in which they should despatch him. _I As
may be well imagined, he kept very quiet, and has
tening on his clothes, contrived to slip out of the
window, and without looking after his horse, made
all possible haste for the city, where he instantly
gave notice to the police large : a body of whom
went out instantly, but the wretches having missed
their victim and suspecting their danger, were on
their guard, and having barricaded their doors
and windows refused to surrender. At last a party
of military had to be sent for, when a sort of bom
bardment commenced. The people in the house
fired many shots, and yielded only after the house
was set on fire. The most of the gang, it was sup
posed, had made their escape previously. The
ladies of Charleston exerted themselves in behalf
of the woman, conceiving that the execution of a
white female would be a disgrace on the fair sex
of Carolina. The governor was beset on every
hand with petitions, but wisely contrived to keep
himself out of the way of the ladies until the exe-

IN THE UNITED STATES. 315
cution was over. On digging around this den of
iniquity, a great number of skeletons were found,
no doubt the remains of unfortunate travellers.
The scorched and blackened walls of the house
still remain as a memento to the by-passer.
The streets in Charleston are tolerably well light
ed at night, and after nine o'clock in winter and
ten in summer are remarkably quiet, every colour
ed person seen in the streets after that hour being
taken to the watch house, and unless a fine is
paid next day by their owner, they receive a flog
ging. When the bell begins to ring in the even
ing, it is curious to observe such a scampering and
running amongst the Negroes. Any person who
may have rather too much copper in his com
plexion, runs a risk of being overhauled by the
watchmen. I knew the case of a young man who
was very dark in the countenance, and being out
rather late at night, was taken up by the guard ;
he was very indignant, and protested that he was a
white man, and that his father was Mr B  . The
man who took him up was an old Scotsman, and
said, " Weel, weel, we're no doubting wha your
father is, but wha was your mither ?" At last the
young man's friends came, and rescued him from
the guard-house. The watchmen here were for
merly armed with a musket and bayonet; they
2 d 2

316 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
now carry only the latter at night. They receive
sixteen dollars per month, but their duty is not se
vere, being only three hours on the street each
night. The remainder of the night they are ac
commodated with a bed in the guard-house, so as
to be at hand in case of necessity.
The custom of serenading is kept up by the
young men of Charleston with considerable spirit.
The music, both vocal and instrumental, which is
practised on such occasions, has a very agreeable
effect in the dead of the night, especially when the
airs are Scotish, which is frequently the case. The
guitar is not an uncommon instrument used on
these occasions.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 317

CHAPTER XX.
HURRICANES — MILITIA — REVOLUTIONARY ANECDOTES— CULTIVA
TION OF COTTON — DO OF RICE — UPPER COUNTRY — TRADE OF
CHARLESTON.
Charleston has at different periods suffered
greatly from the effects of hurricanes, which gene
rally happen in the fall of the year. The appear
ance of the atmosphere previous to the occurrence
of these phenomena, is generally lowering and
dull, and people are in some degree prepared for
it. That which happened in September 1822, was
very destructive in its effects; it came on about
ten o'clock in the evening, and continued till after
two o'clock next morning. The whole atmosphere
seemed to be one mass of blue flame attended with
a strong sulphureous smell, the rattling of the thun
der seemed quite lost in the more awful and un
common noise produced by the wind, which in oc
casional gusts carried every thing before it with in
conceivable fury. It would then seem lulled for a
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318 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
few minutes as if collecting fresh strength, and in
a moment burst forth like a volcano. The crash
ing of houses and chimneys, and the rattling of
tiles, bricks and timber, rushed down the streets
with a noise hardly to be imagined, whilst in most
houses both windows and shutters were carried in
like sheets of paper, and the rain literally fell in
torrents. Amid all this confusion, the shrieks and
cries of the wounded and terrified inhabitants were
most appalling. The effects produced by the vio
lence of the wind is scarcely credible to those who
have not witnessed a similar scene ; large trees were
broken off within a few feet of the ground as if cut
through with a saw; many wooden houses were fairly
overturned with their contents, and the cupola of a
church, which was several tons in weight and most
ly made of copper, was carried several hundred
feet over the top of high houses, and lodged in a
street which it nearly blocked up. In the country,
complete lanes were formed through the forests as
if done by art. In one instance in the city, a fa
mily consisting of nine were all killed, excepting
the father who had some of his limbs broken ;
and an infant child which was preserved alive in its
cradle, over which a large beam had fallen in such
a direction, as to prevent the ruins from crushing
it. The whole number of people who perished in

IN THE UNITED STATES. 319
Charleston and the surrounding country was near
ly five hundred. Next morning several vessels
were seen outside the bar, bottom up, and on cut
ting through the bottom of one of these, a Negro
man was found alive, who asked if he was near Sa
vannah ! On Sullivan's island, the inhabitants during
such hurricanes are placed in great jeopardy, the
sea frequently making a complete breach over the
whole island, excepting at the fort where people
generally find refuge, but if too late to find their
way thither, are left to the mercy of the tempest,
which has sometimes carried houses and their in
mates fairly out to sea. In attempting to gain the
fort, individuals have been blown into the water.
In Charleston, every white man of proper age is
required to turn out as a Militia man once a
month generally. In case of non-compliance with
this law, a heavy fine is levied for each offence.
The Negroes require to be looked after very
strictly ; and nothing but vigilance and caution
will preserve the whites in safety from their machi
nations. There are some uniform companies here who
make a tolerable appearance; but the majority
turn out in their every day apparel. Most of
their evolutions would appear awkward enough to
an experienced soldier, but they are all furnished

320 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
with arms. Some travellers have asserted, that
the militia in America turn out generally with an
umbrella or a stick in place of a musket. In most
cases, such assertions have been made at the ex
pense of truth, and with the ungenerous intention,
that every thing relating to America may appear
in a ridiculous point of view.
In the country towns of America, I have occa
sionally seen a militia man make use of a corn
stalk in place of a musket ; but I have seen almost
as simple an instrument used for the same purpose
in some parts of Scotland.
At a review near Charleston, I have observed
a- whole company of the military form themselves
into a semi-circle to avoid standing over the shoes
in water. Their commander either could not, or
did not require them to form into regular line:
there might be no particular occasion possibly for
their standing in the wet, although it made some
what an awkward breach in the line. A detach
ment of country militia who were called to town
during the Negro disturbance, made a somewhat
grotesque appearance, being dressed with trowsers
and frocks made of common drugget, (or blue and
white as it is called) and large white Leghorn straw
hats adorned with an immense plume of black os
trich feathers on their heads. These gentlemen

IN THE UNITED STATES. 321
were tall, sallow, thin-looking fellows ; but appa
rently as tough as neat's leather. It required no
stretch of fancy to imagine you heard the jaws of
their commander creak as he opened them to give
his orders. They certainly did look very formida
ble to the poor Negroes while flourishing their
sabres, like so many Quixotes. I understood that
this was a complete aristocratical corps, being
composed entirely of rich planters, who would ad
mit no merchants, traders, or foreigners amongst
them. During the revolutionary war, the inhabitants
of Carolina made as great and as disinterested sa
crifices in the cause of liberty, as any of their
countrymen. Many sacrificed their whole fortune
at the shrine of freedom, and were left to starve
in their old age. The government of America
has been wofully deficient in providing for the
wants of her aged warriors ; and until some rea
sonable provision be made for all who have suf
fered in her cause, America should be less liberal
in extolling her-munificence and gratitude to one
or two favoured individuals.
The Americans, during the revolutionary war,
were at times in such distressed circumstances,
that it is asserted as a most incontrovertible fact,
(several eye-witnesses being yet alive) that at the

322 six years' residence
battle of Eutaw-Springs, a detachment of Caroli
nians engaged that day were literally naked, and
that they thrust small bunches of grass under their
knapsacks to prevent their backs from being
galled !
When a deputation of British officers went to
General Marion's camp to negotiate about some
matter, they found him and his staff seated round
a fire, roasting sweet potatoes for their dinner.
Being informed that this had been their only pro
vision for weeks together, the British expressed
their astonishment, when the Americans assured
them, that with such fare, and in the enjoyment of
liberty, they were quite happy. Such anecdotes
as these become very interesting, when heard
from the mouths of such as shared in the dangers
of the revolution.
The chief productions of Carolina are cotton
and rice. Indigo was formerly the chief article of
cultivation, but is now much neglected. The qua
lity is very inferior to Spanish or Bengal Indigo.
It sells at 87 cents (4s.) per pound, when the lat
ter brings two and a half dollars (lis. 3d.) per lb.
There are two qualities of cotton cultivated
here, the black seed, or Sea Island, and the green
seed or upland : whence this last has been deno
minated " boweds" in Britain does not appear; it

IN THE UNITED STATES. 323
is unknown by that name in Carolina. The Sea
Island is cultivated on low and rich lands near the
sea, although it is likewise planted up the country,
where it is called Santee, but is of inferior quality.
Cotton is generally sown in March in rows about
four feet apart, and the plants are thinned to about
eighteen inches or two feet asunder. The culti
vation consists in hoeing and weeding it carefully.
A field of cotton in blossom presents a very beau
tiful spectacle. When grown, the plants are
about four feet high, and the pods appear of a
quadrangular shape about the size of walnuts.
These burst open when ripe, and the cotton ad
hering to the seeds is carefully picked out by
hand. The Negroes are tasked to gather a cer
tain quantity of lbs. per day.
As the cotton plant does not stand frost, how
ever slight, it must be renewed annually. After
the cotton is collected, it is ginned or cleaned.
The Sea Island, which adheres only very slightly
to the seed, is cleaned by passing it with the hand
between two rollers about an inch in diameter,
which are wrought in the same manner as a turn
ing lathe. In this way the staple is not at all cut,
which is the case with the upland or short staple.
This last adheres very firmly to the seed, and re
quires, a saw-gin to clean it. This isa machine

324 six years' residence
driven by the hand, or by horse power. It con
sists of forty or fifty small circular saws, (about
six inches in diameter) turning round within so
many grooves. The cotton is placed in a trough
close to these ; and the saws, in turning round,
tear the cotton through the grooves, leaving the
seed to fall out on the other side. Beneath the
row of saws, a roller, furnished with a number of
long brushes equal to the number of saws, turns
round with a much greater velocity, throwing the
clean cotton to a considerable distance backwards.
Twenty lbs. of cotton from the plant usually pro
duces five of clean cotton, and six hundred lbs. of
the latter is considered a good crop off one acre.
When cotton is packed up in square bales, it is
done in a press. In the round bags, it is packed
in the following manner : A Negro going within
th.e bag, (which is suspended from the ground) is
supplied with cotton, which he puts in layers be
neath his feet, and this being occasionally slightly
wetted, acquires the requisite firmness. There
are many instances of deceit practised in the pack
ing of cotton; this is well known to the cotton
spinners in Britain, large stones, pieces of metal,
sand, or cotton seeds being found upon opening
the bags. I once saw on the wharf at Charleston,
a waggon load of cotton, which, from the uncom-

in the united states. 325
mon weight of each bale, excited the suspicion of
the weigher, who caused them to be cut across,
when the contents, excepting about two inches
next the outside, were found to be completely
soaked with water. This was a very bare-faced
attempt at imposition ; but the owner of the cot
ton reaped the fruit of his ingenuity, by losing
the whole; as the moment that the operation of
cutting the bags commenced, did he make his re
treat with his waggon as quickly as possible, for
fear of worse consequences. At this time, cotton
was worth a hundred dollars per bale, without any
damping. It is very seldom that a merchant who
has shipped cotton, can recover any thing here in
case of false packing being discovered in Britain.
When accused of such base practices, the people
say, that they are merely retaliating upon the
British for their gross fraud in their manner of
putting up goods, especially those that come from
Manchester. It would be well for both parties to
conduct their commerce upon honourable princi
ples. Much bad blood is engendered on account
of these tricks, and many unworthy surmises cast
upon merchants of integrity and honour.
Rice is another important article of cultivation
in Carolina. The first which was planted here
was a small quantity brought from Madagascar
2 E

326 six years' residence
in the year 1694. It forms now one of the great
staple articles of the country, both for home con-
sumpt and for exportation.
From the nature of this article, the operations
attendant upon the cultivation of it are imminent
ly dangerous to white people, and are even very
unhealthy to Negroes. During a great part of the
time from its being planted until cut down, the la
bourers are obliged to work literally ancle deep in
mud, and exposed to the most pestilential vapours
arising from the effects of a burning sun. The
fields are flooded to a certain depth with water,
which is let off at intervals, for the purpose of
hoeing. One great object in flooding is to keep
grass and weeds down. The fields, as may be
supposed, are very level, and some of them are of
great extent. The rice is beaten out of the husks
by large pestles, driven by water power or steam.
The average produce of one acre is about 1200
lbs. of clean rice. In 1818, when rice was very
high in Charleston, (about 3£d. or 4d. per lb.) one
planter received over one hundred thousand dol
lars for his crop. Rice is reckoned a very whole
some food, and is much used as a substitute for
bread or potatoes. Excepting in town, the Ne
groes are seldom allowed any.
Some tobacco is raised in the upper part of Ca~

IN THE UNITED STATES. 327
rolina ; but the quality is inferior. I have seen a
large cask of this article, with a sort of spindle
through it, (something in the manner of a rolling
stone,) drawn by a horse, and in this simple way
are such casks transported for two hundred or
three hundred miles.
Another article of commerce raised in conside
rable quantities here» is sesamun, or oily grain,
Commonly called ground nuts. This originally
came from Africa, and is much used by Negroes.
It is roasted like coffee, and after being freed from
the shell, is made into cakes, &c. An immense
quantity of this article is shipped to Boston and
other places for the purpose of making chocolate;
Indian corn is raised in every part of the coun
try ; but not in sufficient quantities for the con
sumption of the State. Flour is imported iii great
quantities from Philadelphia and other places.
In the upper part of Carolina, which is very
beautiful* wheat, rye, oats, flax, &c. are raised,
and the principal labours of the field are performed
by white people* This upper country is, in many
respects, a much more desirable residence than
Canada,' or the Northern States of America. It is
as healthy upon an average as these countries, and
enjoys a delightful climate, the summer not being
so oppressively hot as it is in the north during the
2 e 2

328 six years' residence
time it lasts ; and the winter is very mild, so much
so, that cattle are never at a loss for fodder.
Markets are also generally within a reasonable
distance ; and a good price is obtained at all times
ifor the productions of the farm. But with all
these advantages, the fact is, that the nature and
state of the country is altogether unknown to
the majority of people at all desirous to emi
grate. People who have heard any thing of
Charleston or the low country, imagine that the
whole State is overrun with swamps and slaves ;
when the real state of the matter is, that slaves
are little known in the upper part of the State, and
the face of the country is beautifully interspersed
with hill and dale. Peaches, figs, &c. are raised
in abundance ; and a little attention to the cultiva
tion of the vine would amply reward the planter
with wine of an excellent quality. Grapes grow
wild in abundance along the fences and in the
woods. Another thing is, that few ships, compa
ratively speaking, leave Britain for Carolina; and
the passage money is usually high, which, in some
measure, checks emigration thither. As the coun
try becomes better known, emigrants will, no
doubt, prefer a rich country, with an almost per
petual spring, to a country covered with ice and
snow during five or six months of the year, and

IN THE UNITED STATES. 329
where cattle must be fed during all that time. A
great part of Upper Carolina is yet unsettled, and
land can always be obtained at a low rate.
There are many people here, known by the
name of " Squatters," who have, without cere
mony, settled upon unoccupied lands, and in some
cases, having remained in undisturbed possession
of such for a number of years, acquire a kind of
right to the land thus usurped.
I have seen plenty of land upon which cattle
were grazing, and covered with good timber, with
in thirty miles of Charleston, which was sold at
auction for two dollars (9s.) per acre.
The trade of Charleston consists chiefly in the
export of cotton and rice to Europe and the
Northern States of America. The quantity of
cotton annually exported, amounts to about
200,000 bales, and about 100,000 barrels of rice,
each containing 700 lbs. A large quantity of tar,
turpentine, lumber, &c. is also exported.
The import of dry goods is comparatively
trifling, the amount of customs being only about
one-twentieth of what is levied at New York. It
may be said, that in Charleston there are no mar
nufactures; an attempt has been made once or
twice to introduce the manufacture of cotton goods,
but without success, the want of weavers forming
2 e 3

330 SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE
an insurmountable obstacle, and to instruct Ne
groes in this art would require great skill and ca
pital, and a vast deal of patience.
An iron foundery does a considerable deal of
business in castings of mill-work, &c. The price
charged for such coarse work is eight cents per lb.
weight, equal to 40s. 4d. sterling per cwt.
Mechanics in Charleston, such as carpenters,
tailors, &c. receive considerably better wages
than in the north. Many workmen come down
from New York, Philadelphia, and Boston, during
the cool season, finding it advantageous to them
selves, even after deducting the expense of their
passage money backwards and forwards. In
Charleston, a good blacksmith will earn two dol
lars per day, and a good tailor as much. Such
workmen will pay three to four dollars a week for
comfortable board and lodging. The price of
clothing may be mentioned here, viz. : a good
black coat costs from twenty -five to thirty dollars
{£b 12s. 6d. to £6 15s.) ; trowsers from ten to
twelve (45s. to 54s.) ; black cloth vest from four to
six dollars (18s. to 27s.) These prices I paid in
1826, at what is called a cash store.
I may observe, that the business of a barber is
very profitable in the large towns of America, in
New York, Philadelphia, Charleston, &c. 6£

IN THE UNITED STATES. 331
cents (3^d.) is charged for shaving, and 12J to
25 cents (6|d. to 13^d.) for cutting hair. An op
position shop or two commenced in Philadelphia
in 1825, where only three cents was the charge for
shaving : these did a great deal of business. It
may be remarked, that barbers in America gene
rally have their shops fitted out with much neat
ness, and very convenient in all respects for their
customers. An old Scotsman, who has resided upwards of
half a century in Charleston, informed me in
1826, that a mender of old china, a sharpener of
surgeons' instruments, and a maker of wooden
seives or riddles, would find very profitable em
ployment in that city : indeed, three such artizans
would enjoy a complete monopoly of their respec
tive branches of trade, and more than enough of
employment. The business of a watchmaker is by no means
such a profitable employment in America as might
be supposed. An immense quantity of watches
are yearly imported from France and England,
and many of them are exposed to sale by auction
at whatever they may bring. There are few eight
day clocks to be seen in the houses of the Ameri
cans : this is another drawback to the employment
of a watchmaker. In New York or Philadelphia,

332 six years' residence
the price charged for repairing or setting a watch
to rights, is about double the price of what is
charged for the same operation in Glasgow ; but
in Charleston, the very lowest price which I have
paid for the most trifling repair to a common sil
ver watch was one dollar; and for putting my
watch to rights which had fallen on the cabin floor
while at sea, I paid three dollars, on account of
the small chain in the inside having been broken.
In talking of watchmending, I am naturally led
to remember a circumstance which may be worth
recording here. The tube of a thermometer, which
I had brought from Glasgow with me, having been
accidentally broken, I left the instrument at a ma
thematician's shop in Chesnut Street, Philadel
phia, for the purpose of having it replaced. On
calling sometime afterwards at the shop, a young
man handed me the thermometer, and upon my
observing that he had obliterated the original scale,
and the maker's name upon the plate, he replied,
" Oh yes ; we have made it now as it should be."
" What! was it incorrect formerly?" I retorted,
" I am certain, at all events, that the freezing and
boiling points were correct, for I have repeatedly
proved that myself." " Yes, yes," returned he,
" that may be ; these English thermometers are
often correct enough at these points, whilst the

IN THE UNITED STATES. 333
rest of the scale is graduated at random." With
a smile of doubt, I could not help replying, " And
so, young man, you think that our European ma
thematicians should come to Philadelphia to be in
structed in philosophy ?" " Why, Sir, I guess
we can fix these matters pretty correctly," was his
reply. I paid three dollars for the new tube to
this instrument ; the original price of which alto
gether was lis. in Mr Galletti's shop in Glasgow.

334 six years' residence

CHAPTER XXI.

ACCOUNT OF FLORIDA.

Before concluding these remarks on the United
States, it may not be altogether uninteresting to
give a short description of Florida, which was ced
ed by Spain to the United States in 1819. It may
be mentioned in the first place, that such a country
was most unlikely to thrive in the hands of Spain ;
and in the next place, it seems naturally to belong
to the United States, and will, through time, beyond
all doubt, form one of their richest and most im
portant territories. East and West Florida com
prehend about 50,000 square miles, situated be
tween north latitude 25 and 31. The climate is
a happy medium betwixt the sudden changes and
intense cold of the Northern States, and the ex
cessive heat of the West Indies. From the end
of September until the end of June, the climate is
truly delightful. During the other three months
it is very hot, but tempered by regular breezes,
being situated mostly between the Atlantic on the

IN THE UNITED STATES. 335
east, and the Gulf of Mexico on the west. Frost
is almost unknown in the northern part, and not at
all in the southern, so that Florida is adapted for
most of the tropical fruits. A considerable part
of the country is swamp ; indeed, the whole of it
lies low ; but, from the most impartial accounts of
it, it cannot be called unhealthy. St Augustine,
for instance, is resorted to by the inhabitants of
Havannah who have lost their health ; and although
the population is very thin indeed, the deaths are
but few. This country is, as yet, almost unknown
to emigrants ; but the inducements to settle are
many. The country is, in many places, overspread
with the wild orange ; and both the soil and elim
inate is adapted for vines, cocoa, coffee, sugar,
cotton, rice, dates, almonds, olivps, &c.
Florida is literally a paradise in comparison to
some parts of America ; and as it becomes better
known, will, no doubt, receive its own share of
settlers ; but as yet, there exists a strong preju
dice against the Southern States in general, and
there are but very few vessels which trade to that
quarter. A few extracts from a letter written by a
Spanish gentleman long resident in Florida to his
friend in Charleston, may give some idea of the
country. He says — " I will venture to assert, that
from an extraordinary combination of local cir-

336 six years' residence
cumstances,- perhaps no part of the world of equal
size offers a larger portion of good to its evils.
East Florida has natural advantages sufficient to
make it one of the most important divisions of
North America; and indeed, more so than some
that are already opulent. Its level surface and
mild climate, is not exceeded in point of salubrity,
by any part of either continent; in America, equal
led by very few, and is perhaps the most free from
those convulsions of nature, that render property,
health, and even life, precarious. Its extensive
lands, fertile in the productions of many valuable
articles of agriculture, rich in spontaneous high
growth and pasturage, and abounding in native
quadrupeds, lie waste to the amount of fifteen mil
lions of acres. Its water courses are numerous,
navigable, and abundantly supplied with fish. Its
stores of lumber are immense, and the qualities of
some of them have been preferred in all countries
where they have been used, to those of the same
denomination found elsewhere, particularly its
pine, cedar, cypress, and live oak. I have seen
Florida pine bought in Savannah for ship-build
ing, fifty per cent, higher in price than Georgia
pine ; and it is a well known fact, that Florida
pine has had a preference in the royal dock yards
of England, over all other pines that have been
brought there.

IN THE UNITED STATES. 337
" The exports of Florida, at present amounting
almost to nothing, would be very great if it had
but a sufficient population. For the last twenty
years, there has not been exported one barrel of
turpentine, the produce of the province ; whereas,
whep it was but an infant colony of Great Britain,
one commercial house shipped from the river St
John twenty thousand barrels. In Savannah river
(which is no way equal to our St John's) are
loaded hundreds of vessels annually, whjle ¦ the
whole of Florida does not load ten in a year.
Notwithstanding, Florida has advantages arising
from its local situation? that are at least equal to
,the difference in territorial sjze, when compared
.with Georgia, such as extensiye fishing grounds,
large fields for wrecking, the peculiar situation of
its coasts and quays, a more southern climate, more
congenial to the production of many of the most
valuable articles- of commerce that are raised in
(Georgia, and productive pf many others in which
that country does not participate, or but in a very
limited degree. Its exports might consist of many
articles, viz. : the four denominations of lumber
already mentioned, and a variety of others, qqUon,
indigo, hemp, tobacco, pot and pearl ashes, myr(de
and bees wax^ tar, turpentine, rosin, pitch, Indian
corn, rice, rye, barley, and oats, several kinds of
2f

338 six years' residence
wine and brandy, whisky, malt liquors, pease,
beans of many kinds, a long list of esculent and
medical roots, culinary, medical, and manufactur
ing oils, beef, butter, pork, cheese, lard, poultry,
&c. &c. Sugar and flour have not been fairly
tried on a large scale ; but we know, that in Geor
gia, lying more to the north, the former has been
made in good perfection, and the latter in Louisi
ana, directly west. There is no reason to doubt
their lucrative production in Florida ; and its
southern parts will suit the production of coffee. '
" These advantages lie dormant only from the
want of hands to put them in motion; and al
though very great encouragement has long been
held out to settlers from all countries, excepting
only American citizens, yet we get none but a few
of these, who now and then slip in, and meet with
toleration. " The people of South America, our country
men, are well known to possess already too much
territory, and too much indolence, to come this
way; and the great number of people who are
constantly emigrating from all parts of Europe to
the United States and the British provinces, know
nothing of Florida, nor have we vessels in that
commerce to bring them out ; hence the cause why
they emigrate to places already crowded, and not

IN THE UNITED STATES. 339
having the means of establishing themselves on
their own footing, as must be the case with a very
large proportion of them, they go to service to in
crease the opulence of others ; whereas they
would, with the same amount of labour and in
dustry here, become opulent themselves, and im
prove a much finer country.
" The present population of this province does
not exceed five thousand souls, including slaves,
and scarcely one half of these are ever employed
in country work; and those who are, from the
.dislike of solitude inherent in human nature, all
crowd down as near as possible to the sea coast,
leaving the better lands behind them. For as na
ture has receded from the conveniences of the sea,
she has generally compensated in the quality of the
soil. " A proof of the mediocrity, and of course, sa
lubrity and comfort of this climate, is conspicuous
in the perpetual verdure which universally pre
vails ; which neither the summer's heat, nor win
ter's cold is intense enough to destroy : placed be
tween a gulf on each side, the cold of winter is
mollified, and the summer's heat is alleviated by
the regular trade winds.
" There are intervals in the extremity of our
seasons, when the heat and cold are severely felt ;
2f 3

340 SIX years' residence
but their duration is ve^ry short, the heat being
rarely found oppressive more than an hour or two
at a time,' or the Cold for more than a day Or two.
The nights throughout summer are generally cool.
These sudden changes are not productive of such
serious consequences as result from them in other
countries. Colds are common with us ; but are
very rarely known to terminate in consumption ;
for Ss we do not require such warm shelter and
apparel as are indispensable in less favoured cli
mates, we are not so highly wrought as to receive
deep impressions from the transitions ; and when
we have received any at all, the grateful elasticity
and purity of, our air soon disperses the evil. We
are not exempt from fevers.; but owing to our
happy mddiocrity of climate, and purity of atmo
sphere, they do not occur so often, and then they
are divested of that virulence which Characterises
some of them to the north and west of us ; and
those of the more fatal kinds we have never suffer
ed by : they have been several times imported, but
have died in the subjects who brought them : in
short, we have had but little call foi* the doctor*
apothecary, or grave-digger.
" Along the banks of the St Mary's. river, the
inhabitants, who are by no means remarkable for
industry, generally cultivate the pine barren lands

IN THE UNITED STATES. 341
(pine-bearing is certainly the true name) in prefer
ence, and these produce beautiful crops of provi
sions. I have seen fine crops of black seed (sea
island) cotton raised on these lands, 35 miles di
rect from the sea coast. . The inhabitants say these
lands must be cow-penned, and then they produce
three ' or four good crops in succession. On in-
' .quiring into this part of their agricultural process,
I find it amounts to little more than driving a gang
of cattle a few times across them."
This account of Florida, although in several
items evidently overcharged, is correct upon the
most essential points ; and there is no doubt, but
that in the course of time, the advantages of such
a country will be duly appreciated. The price of
United States land is the same in every part of the
Union ; namely — two dollars per acre, payable by
five annual instalments; but in Florida, where
large tracts have been bought up by speculators,
for literally almost nothing, excellent lands even
at no great distance from St Augustine, may be
purchased extremely cheap, and upon very advan
tageous terms. I knew a gentleman in Charles
ton who had purchased more than 100,000 acres
on speculation : he went afterwards to inspect it,
and I had no reason to doubt his candour, when
he informed me, that for ten or twelve miles he
2 v 2

342 SIX YEARS' - RESIDENCE
had rode through groves of the wild orange, and
great part of the land appeared superior to the
average of good land in Carolina.
There is now a fair prospect that this State will
speedily be settled by enterprising farmers from
the older States of the Union. A considerable
number of planters have already removed their
families and stock thither, and the influence of
Spanish manners and customs, hostile alike to li
berality and improvement of every kind, will soon
give way to the more enlightened and rational po
licy of the American government. In 1826, a
Presbyterian church was erected in the town of
St Augustine.

Postscript. — Glasgow, May, 1830. — The great
er part of the foregoing remarks being now printed,
I have only to add, that my most ferVefit wishes
will be fully gratified, should a few of my readers
have received any additional information regard
ing America, to what they previously possessed.
Should my feeble pen have at all served to eluci
date any question of importance *to Such of my
countrymen as may hereafter intend going west
wards, it will be a lasting consolatioh to me, that
my labour to delineate America and its inhabitants

IN THE UNITED STATES. 343
to the best of my ability, has not been altogether
in vain.
The great emigration which has, and now is
taking place to America, will serve to corroborate
a few of my remarks in regard to farmers and me
chanics" ; and I have no doubt, but that as the real
state of America becomes better known, and mu
tual prejudice and illiberality disappear, that emi
gration to that country will be looked upon, not
as expatriation, and a surrendering of all the com
forts of civilized life, but rather as a removal from.
an overcrowded portion of a free, independent,'
and civilized country, to another part of the same,-
which is not less rich, but more roomy.
To those who are not immediately interested in
America, or its population, I can only return them.
my most sincere thanks for having borne me com
pany thus far.

344

SIX YEARS RESIDENCE

AREA OF THE UNITED STATES IN SQUARE MILES, WITH THEIR
CAPITAL CITIES.

STATES.
Maine, New Hampshire, .
Vermont,  ™
M assachusctts,. 
Rhode Island, ™.
Connecticut, 
New York, 
New Jersey, 
Pennsylvania,
Delaware, 
Maryland, .„.
Virginia,.
North Carolina,
South Carolina,
Georgia, ,
Alabama, «
Mississippi,,
Louisiana, „
Tennessee, -
Kentucky, _
Ohio, «v~w~w.
Indiana, _~.
Illinois,

SQR. MILES.
.32,628. 9,491
.10,212 . 7,500 '
. 1,340
. 4,764
.46,085. 8,320
.44,000 ,
2,120
13,950
64,000 48,000 '
.28,000 62,000
_46,000„45,760-48,220
..40,000 -42,000-39,128
-37,000

Missouri, „.
Michigan, _
North West,
Arkansa, 
Missouri,. Florida, Columbia District,

.52,000
 63,000
 54,000

CHIEF CITIES.
Concord
PortlandMontpelier BostonProvidence and New-Port
Hartford and New-Haven
AlbanyTrenton
Harrisburgh
Dover AnnapolisRichmondRaleigh Columbia
Milledgeville CahawbaColumbia
New Orleans
Murfreesborough
FrankfortColumbus
IndianopolisVandaliaJefferson City

. 121,000 Arkopolis

45,000 100

St Augustine
Washington

1,014,618
Unsurveyed, about 1,500,000

2,514,618

POPULATION (INCLUDING SLAVES) OF THE UNITED STATES AT THE FOLLOWING PERIODS :

Massachusetts and Maine,
New Hampshire, -
Rhode Island, .
Connecticut, - - - -
Vermont, -._...
New York, 
New Jersey, ......
Pennsylvania, .....
Delaware, ......
Maryland, .....
Virginia, ......
North Carolina, ....
South Carolina, -
Georgia, - - -
Kentucky,. ......
Tennessee, - - - - .
Ohio,, 
Alabama, - - -
Mississippi, ......
Louisiana, ---...
Indiana,' Carry forward,

CENSUS.
1 1790. '

CENSUS.
;• reoo.

CENSUS. 1810:

CENSUS.. 1820.

ESTIMATED j
11828.

475^327
¦¦ 141,986
¦ 68,805.
237,946
: 85,539
340,120
: 184,139
434,373 54,094
319,723 747,610
393,751249,173 84,81873,677 '
35,691

575,000 183,000-
' - 70,000
' 251,000 154,000
' 386,000 211,000604,000 64,000
322,000886,000478,000
345,000 162,000
220,000' 137,000 1

700,745
2-14,460 76,931
261,942
- 217,895
959,0*9
' 245,568810,091 72,674
380,546 974,622
555,500 415,115
"252,435 406,511
i 261,727
.230,760

821,622244,161 83,059
-275,248 233,76*
1,-372,812 277,57,5.
1,019,398 72,749
407.350
1,065,366 638,829
•490,309 340,989 564,317
422,813 581,434 127,901 75,448
153,407
147,178

' 902,423
' 268,065 86,540
284,477270,820
1,611,307 296,499
1,193,589 74,948
419,379
1,133,410 701,626
558,233 413,144691,397
540,176
. 826,905
254,041
" 108,181
212,074
, , 196,810

3,926,791 '

5,348,000

7*086,565

9;458,428

11,074,044

0
a
H?3

POPULATION OF THE UNITED STATES, &c. — Continued.

Brought forward, •
Illinois, i
Missouri, ¦_.....
Michigan Territory, - - - -
Arkansa Ditto,
Columbia District, - - - _
Territory North West of Ohio,

The next Census will be taken in 1830.

CENSUS. 1790.

3,926,791

72,000

3,998,791

CENSUS. 1800.

348,000

5,348,000

CENSUS. 1810.

036,565

7,036,565

9,458,428 55,211 66,586 8,896
14,273
33,039

9,636,433

ESTIMATED 1888.

11,074,044 85,288
106,200 11,806
31,987 39,137

11,348,462

Number of slaves in the following States of America :

New Jersey,
Delaware, . -
Maryland, .
Virginia, -
North .Carolina,
South Carolina,
Georgia,
Alabama, Mississippi, -
Louisiana,

3,778
- x 2,500
100,000
- 450,000 235,000
- 288,000 189,000
- 93,300
52,500
- 110,500

Tennessee,
Kentucky, Indiana, Illinois, -
Missouri, - -
Arkansa Territory,
Florida ditto,
Columbia District,

Brought forward,

Carry forward, 1,524,578
The free coloured population are estimated at about 260,000.

1,524,578 110,000
¦ 166,000 300
1,460
20,800 2,600 5,000 390
1,831,128

X w
!>W HCO3wo w

IN THE UNITED STATES. 347
POPULATION OF THE FOLLOWING CITIES AT DIFFERENT PERIODS :

1790.

1800.

1810.

1820. -

New York,

33,131

60,489

96,373

123,706

Philadelphia,

42,520

64,035

93,640

108,116

Baltimore,

13,503

26,514

- 46,535

.62,738

Boston, ...

18,747

24,937

33,25ff

43,298

Charleston, S. Carolina/

16,359

23,560

31,500

.37,500

New Orleans,

. ¦ ,

, .

,

27,176

Providence, R. I.

6,380

7,614

10,071

11,767

Richmond, Va.

6,985

'.

9,745

12,046

Portsmouth, N. Hamp.

4,720

5,339

6,934

.7,327

Portland, Maine,

. 2,240

3,704

7,169

8,581

Washington,

8,208

13,247

Salem,

12,731
Albany,
12,630
* Cincinnati,
9,644
Norfolk, -
8,478
Alexandria,
8,218
Savannah,
.7,523
Georgetown, S. Carolina,
7,360
New- Haven,
7,147
New- Port,
7,319
Pittsburgh, -'
7,248
Newbury. Port,
6,852
Petersburgh,
6,690
Lancaster,
6,663
Newark,
6,507
Lexington,
5,267
Troy,
5,264
Hudson,
4,860
Hartford,
4,726
St Louis,
4,598'
* This city, in 1829, contained
upwa
-da o
f, 24,000
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350

SIX YEARS RESIDENCE

TABLE CONVEKTING STERLING MONEY INTO AMERICAN DOLLARS,
CENTS, &C.

Sterling. «. a.

Cents.

lOOths of a
Cent.

-Sterling. i. d.

Cents.

lOOths of a
Cent.

Shillings.

Dollrs.

Cents.

100 ths
ot a
Cent.'

0 1

1

•85

2 4

51

85

1

22

22

0 2

3

70

2 5
53
70
2
44
44
0 3
5
55
2 6
55
56
3
66
66
0 4
7
40
2 7
57
41
4
88
88
0 5
9
26
2 8
59
26
5
1
11
11
0 6
11
11
2 9
61
11
6
1
33
33
0 7
12
96
2 10
62
96
7
1
55
55
0 8
14
81
2 11
64
81
8
I
77
78
0 9
16
66
3 0
66
66
9
2
00
00
0 10
18
51
3 1
68
51
10
2
22
22
0 11
20
37
3 2
70
36
11
2
44
44
1 0
22
22
3 3
72
21
12
2
66
66
1 1
24
07
3 4
74
06
13
2
88
88
1 2
25
92
3 5
75
91
14
3
11
11
1 3
27
78
3 6
77
76
15
3
33
33
1 4
29
63
3 7
79
61
16
3
55
55
1 5
31
48
3 8
81
46
17
3
77
78
i 6
33
33
3 9
83
32
18
4
1 7
35
18
3 10
85
18
19
4
22
22
1 8
37
03
3 11
87
03
20
4
44
44
1 9
38
88
4 0
88
88
1 10
40
73
4 1
90
73
1 11
42
59
4 2
92
58
2 0
44
44
4 3
94
44
2 1
46
29
4 4
96
30
2 2
48
15
4 5
98
15
2 3
50
00
4 6
100
00
IN THE UNITED STATES.

351

TABLE CONVERTING STERLING MONEY INTO AMERICAN DOLLARS,
CENTS, &c. — Continued.

Stg.

lOOths

Stg.

lOOths
Sterling.
lOOths
Dollrs.
Cents.
of a
Dollrs.
Cents.
of a
Dollars.
Cents.
£
Cent.
£
Cent.
£
Cent.
1
4
-44
44
44
195
55
55
87
386
66
66
2
8
88
88
45
200
88
391
11
11
3
13
33
33
46
204
44
44
89
395
55
56
4
17
77
77
47
208
88
88
90
400
5
22
22
22
48
213
33
33
91
404
44
44
6
26
66
66
49
217
77
77
92
408
88
88
7
31
11
11
50
222
22
22
93
413
33
33
8
35
55
55
51
226
66
66
94
417
77
77
9
40
52
231
11
11
95
422
22
22
10
44
44
44
53
235
55
56
96
426
66
66
11
48
88
88
54
240
97
431
11
11
12
53
33
33
55
244
44
ii
98
435
55
56
13
57
77
77
56
248
88
88
99
440
14
62
22
22
57
253
33
33
100
444
44
44
15
66
66
66
58
257
77
77
200
888
88
88
16
71
11
11
59
262
22
22
300
1,333
33
33
17
75
55
56
66
265
66
66
400
1,777
77
77
18
80
61
271
11
11
500
2,222
22
22
19
84
44
44
62
275
55
56
600
2,666
66
66
20
88
88
88
63
280
700
3,111
II
11
21
93
33
33
64
284
44
44
800
3,555
55
56
22
97
77
77
65
288
88
88
900
4,000
...
23
102
22
22
66
293
33
33
1,000
4,444
44
44
""24
106
66
66
67
297
77
77
2,000
8,888
88
88
25
111
11
11
68
302
22
22
3,000
13,333
33
33
26
115
55
56
69
306
66
66
4,000
17,777
77
77
27
120
70
311
11
11
5,000
22,222
22
22
28
124
44
44
71
315
55
56
6,000
26,666
66
66
29
128
88
88
72
320
7,000
31,111
11
11
30
133
33
33
73
324
44
44
8,000
35,555
55
56
31
137
77
77
74
328
88
88
9,000
40,000
32
142
22
22
75
333
33
33
10,000
44,444
44
44
33
146
66
66
76
337
77
77
20,000
88,888
88
88
34
151
11
11
77
342
22
22
30,000
133,333
33
33
35
155
55
56
78
346
66
66
40,000
177,777
77
77
36
160
79
351
11
11
50,000
222,222
22
22
37
164
44
44
80
355
55
56
60,000
266,666
66
66
38
168
88
88
81
360
70,000
311,111
11
11
39
173
33
32
82
364
44
44
80,000
355,555
55
56
40
177
77
77
83
368
88
88
90,000
400,000
00
00
41
182
22
22
84
373
33
33
100,000
AAA, AAA,
44
44
42
186
66
65
85
377
77
77
1,000,000
4,444,444
44
44
43
191
11
11
86
382
22
22
|
2 g 2
352

SIX YEARS RESIDENCE

OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER — CHARLESTON, 1818.

Thermo, at 2 p.m. in
1818.

hade. In Sun.

Thermo, at 2 r. at. Shade.
1818.

Jan. 12,

Cold, rain

42

Feb. 25,

Clear 54

13,

. . clear

36 90

26,

57

14,

. .

35 104

27,

Cloudy 58

15,

Fine

46

28,

Clear 68

16,

50 121

Average 53.

17,

. , '

51

18,

Rain

53

March 1,

Fine, warm 72

19,

Clear

60

2,

70

20,

Rain

62

3,

66

21,

Fine

56

4,

. . cold 50

22,

. ,

60

5,

.... 51

23,

. ,

61

6,

52

24,

. .

57

7,

54

25,

. ,

65

8,

56

26,

, ,

68 133

' 9,

59

27,

. ,

70

10,

64

28,

65
H,
64
29,
Rain
64
12,
65
30,
. . and cold 45
13,
69
31,
Clear . .
36
14,
. .feels cool 71
Average 54.
15,
. . . warm 72
16,
. . blowy 58
Feb. 1,
Clear, cold
-42
17,
Rain, cold 46
2,
Cloudy
51
18,
42
3,
Rain
54
19,
Fine 45
4,
Clear, cold
49
20,
Rain 50
5,
. .
47
21,
Fine 60
6,
, .
47
22,
57
7,
51
23,
57
8,
. .
52
24,
. . cold 58
9,
. .
42
25,
67
10,
. . very col (136
26,
69
11,
Rain
40
27,
. . warm 73
12,
Cloudy
44
28,
. . cold 62
13,
. .
50
29,
64
14,
. .
60
30,
. . blowy 71
15,
Fine
58
31,
68
16,
. .
48
Average 60^.
17,
, , -
54
18,
Rain
64
April 1,
Fine . 69
19,
Cloudy
48
2,
Cloudy 71
20,
Clear
61
3,
Rain 70
21,
59
4, Cloudy 62
22,
. . warm
70
5,
Fine 66
23,
Cloudy
64
6,
68
24,
Rain
65
7,
71
IN THE UNITED STATES.

353

1818.

2 P. M.

1818. 2 p. M.

April 8,

Rain

71

20, Fair, cool 52

9,

72

'21, . . 60

10,

. . cool

62

'22, . . 64

11,

. #

66

23, .- 65

12,

67

24, . . 64

13,

69
25, . . 63
14,
t .
68
26, Rain 68
15,
. .
75
27, Fair 73
16,
77
28, . . 76
17,
Fair, blowy 76
29, . . cool 68
18,
68
30, . . warm 79
19,
. . cool
56
Average 67£.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEA'
CHER — CHARLESTON, 1820.
1820.
2 P. M.
1820. 2 p. m.
March 23,
Clear
55
April 24, Clear 86
24,
60
25, . . 78
25,
63
26, . . thdr.hail86
26,
.
67
27, . . warm 85
27,
70
28, . . 80
28,
75
29, . . 82
29,
72
30, . . 82
30,
Cloudy
70
Average 72J.
31,
Clear
72
April 1,
Clear
70
May 1, Cloudy, cool 67
2,
..hail showr.70
2, Clear 72
3,
. . cold
49
3, . . warm 83
4,
. . verycold42
,4, . . . . ' 82
5,
. . pleasant 62
5, . . . . 80
6,
. . warm
74
6, Rain 72
7,
73
7, Clear 76
8,
Rain
63
8, . . warm 78
9,
Clear
58
9, Sultry, thdr. 79
10,
61
10, Rain 82
11,
69
11, . . 81
12,
74
12, Clear, hot 81
13,
. .thdr.stm. 76
13, . . cool ! 86
14,
Clear
72
14, . . hot 82
15,
80
15, ... . 76
16,
80
16, . . cool 74
17,
Rain
66
17, . . warm 78
18,
Cloudy
68
18, Cloudy 77
19,
Clear, warm 73
19, Rain 73
20,
. .
76
20, Clear, warm 77
21,
. .
79
21, Cloudy, 82
22,
82
22, Clear 80
23,
83
23, . . sultry 81
2 g3
354

SIX YEARS RESIDENCE

1820.

2 P. M.

1823.

2 P. M.

May 24, Clear, hot

87

Nov. 29, Clear

53

25, . . thdr.rain 84

30, . .

57

-26, . . very hot 89

Dec. 1, Clear, warm 70

27, . . cold !

69

2, ..

68

28, . . cool

74

3, Rain

66

29, ..

79

4, Cloudy, warm74

30, Cloudy,warm78

1825.

31, Rain

77

Dec. 20, Clear,vy.cld.20!*

June 1, Cloudy

73

1826.

2, . . rain

72

Jan. 8, Clear

61

3, .. ..

73

9, ..

62

4, Clear, hot

85

Feb. 26, . .

74

5, .. ..

85

27, ..

73

6, ..sultry,thr.87

28, ..

74

7, Clear, warm 80

March 1, Clear

70

8, Cloudy

81

2, . .

78

9, . . rain

83

3, ..

79

10, Clear

82

4, ..

79

11, . . hot

82

5, ..

78

12, ....

84

6, ..

81

13, ..

85

7, ••

78

14, . . thunder 86

8, ..

74

15, Clear

86

9, . .

76

1823.

24, Cloudy

73

Nov. 4, Clear, warm 72

25, . . rain

74

5, ..

74

26, Clear

68

6, ..

75

27, ..

67

7, . . cool

63

28, . .

70

8, . .

67

29, ..

72

9, ..

68

30, . .

74

10, ..

74

31, ..

73

11, Rain, sultry, 73

May 21, Clear

80

12, Clear, cool

56

22, . .

81

13 

62

23, ..

80

14, . .

63

24, . .

82

15, Cloudy,

60

25, . .

81

16, ..

60

26, . .

82

17, Clear

57

27, Cloudy

79

18 . . cool

50

June 11, Clear

89

19, Clear

58

12, ..

90

20, . .

63

13, ..

93

21, . . warm

74

14, ..

83

23, CIoudy,sltry.73

15, Cloudy

81

23, Clear

66

16, ..

82

24, Cloudy

67

17, Rain

83

25, Rain

70

18, Clear

84

26, Clear

65

19, ..

83

27, ..

60

"28, 7 a.m. 38
54
* Lowest for 50 years
past.
IN THE UNITED STATES.

355

1826.

2 p. m.

1826

2 P.M.

June 20, Clear

86

16, Clear

85

»i, . .

85

17, ..

86

22, ...

82

Sept 10, Clear

85

23, . .

84

11, . .

86

July 1, Clear

89'

12, Rain

89

2, ..

89

13, Clear

90

3, . . hot

91

14, . .

91

4, .. ..

94

15,

91

5, .. ..

92

16, ..

80

6, ..

88

28, ..

86

7, Cloudy

87

29, ..6a, «

. 60

8, Rain

88

Oct. 11, Clear

68

9, Clear

82

12, ..

64

10, ..

83

13, ..

64

11, ..

85

28, . .

80

12, ..

84

29, . .

81

13, ..

84

Nov. 17, Rain

73

14, Cloudy

86

18, Clear

35!

15, ..

89

19, Clear 6am33 37

OBSERVATIONS ON THE

WEATHER — NEW YORK

1822. At 2 P. M.

1823. 2 P. M.

Sept. 13, Clear, hot

90

Feb. 8, Clear, 3 a.

M. ) „

14, ..

85

four below ( "

15, ..

84

„ . . 8 A. M.

6

16, . .

82

9, . . 8 _

8

17, . . cool

66

April 18, Clear

71

18, ..

67

19, ..

70

19, ..

71

21, Thunder

72

26, Cloudy,sultry77

23, Sultry

70

28, . .

78

24, Cool

54

Oct. 10, . .

73

27, Warm

83

11, .. ..

74

June 15, Clear

76

12, Clear, cool

65

16, ..

73

13, ..

69

17, . . hot

85

14, ..

58

18,

88

18, . . warm

74

21, . .

76

22,

70

OBSERVATIONS

IN VERM

ONT — LAT. 44 NORTH.

1823. 2
P. M.
1823.
2 p.m.
Sept. 6, Clear
73
Sept. 22, ClearlO p.m
27,
7, Rain
65
23, ..
50'
19, Clear
77
24, ..
56
21, Cloudy
46
25, ..
56
— Clear,ll p.m.31
26, ..
67
22, . .
50
27, ..
02
356 six

YEARS

RESIDENCE

OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER AT PHILADELPHIA.

1824. At 2 p.m.

1824.

2 E.M

June 5, Clear, warm 82

Oct

. 30, Clear

50

6, .. ..

83

1825.

— In sun, 138.

April 13, Clear, (6 a.m.

7, Clear, hot

88

37)

52

8, . . . .

89

14, ..
54
— Schuylkill wai
16, . . warm
74
ter from the
17, ..
74
pipe 74
21, ..(6 a. m.
11, Clear, cool
68
ice)
12, ..
69
23,
67
13, ..
67
May 7 I.-.-..
73
Julyl, Clear, hot
87
8, . .
67
2, Cloudy,thdr.85
9, . . (6 A.M.
3, Clear
84
48)
14, ..
76
14, ..
70
— Water 76
15, ..
66
26, Clear
90
16, ..
67
30, . .
81
20, ..
75
Aug. 18, Clear, hot
86
23, ..
75
19, ..
87
24, . .
83
27, . . thunder 76
June 7, . . hot
81
— . . (rain wa
8, 
83
ter) 73.
9, ....
85
28, Clear
75
11, ....
88
29, . .
71
12, ...
88
30, Rain
70
— 5 a.m. 81
31, ..
64
21, Clear, hot
93
Sept. 1, Clear
7u
28, . . . .
76
2, ..
74
89, . .
75
3, Cloudy
71
July
Average at 2
15, Clear
80
P M.
91
16, Windy
83
Only one day
19, . .
70
below 80,re
25, Clear, cool
65
peatedly 9£
27, . .
57
3 times 102.
Oct. 7, Clear
48
Aug.
14, Cleai-
88
8, ..
65
Sept.
11, Clear, (6 a.m.
9, . .
70
47)
67
10,
73
12, . . (do. 56) 66
30, . . 6a.m.33
IN THE UNITED STATES. &51
TABLE OF THE MEAN ANNUAL HEAT AT THE FOLLOWING PLACES :

Chandernagor in the East Indies
Pondicherry, East Indies
Kingston, Jamaica
St Domingo, City
Havannah, Cuba
Algiers, Barbary
Funchal ....
St Augustine, Florida
New Orleans, Louisiana
Pensacola, Florida
Natchez, Mississippi .
Savannah, Georgia
Toulon, France
Naples, Italy
Charleston, South Carolina
Mexico, 7,500 feet above sea level
Rome, Italy
Montpelier, France
Madrid, 2,300 feet above sea level
Bordeaux, France,
Washington, America
Pekin, China
Cincinnati, Ohio,
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania,
Amsterdam, Holland
New York ....
Paris, France
London ....
Vienna, Austria
Cambridge, New England
Geneva, Switzerland .
Glasgow, Scotland
Perth, Ditto
Stockholm, Sweden
Quebec, Canada
Abo, Finland,
Petersburg, Russia

LATITUDE.

Deg.

Min.

Thermo.

11

20

92.

11

56

85.

18

04

81.

18

20

81.

23

11

78.10

36

48

70.

32

37

68.72

29

45

66.13

30

65.80

30

30

65.50

31

33

63.90

31

57

63.75

43

03

63.05

40

50

63.04

32

42

63.

19

25

62.24

41

53

60.2o

43

36

59.35

40

25

59.

44

50

56.48

38

52

55.05

39

54

54.86

39

06

54.25

39'

57

53.63

52

22

53.40

40

40

52.80

48

50

51.47

51

30

50.60

48

12

50.56

42

25

50.36

46

12

50.21

55

56

48.70

56

25

47.30

59

20

44.37

46

55

41.90

60

27

41.50 '

59

56

39.50

359

SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE, &C.

RETURN OP DEATHS WITHIN THE CITY OF CHARLESTON, (S. C.) FROM
THE FIRST OF JAN. 1825 TO THE FIRST OF JAN. 1826.

Diteatet.
Accident  14
Angina Pectoris  1
Apoplexy  9
Asthma  7
Cancer  5
Catarrh  14
ChUd-Bed  9
Cholic  4
Cholera Morbus  3
Consumption  ....152
Convulsions  48
Cramp  4
Croup  16
Debility  34
Diarrhoea  79
Dropsy  87
Drowned  5
Dysentery  6
Dyspepsia  3
Epilepsy  1
Fever  6
Fever, Bilious  21
Fever, Catarrhal  6
Fever, Country  28
Fever, Intermittent  6
Fever, Nervous  15
Fever, Worm  14
Gout  1
Hooping Cough  5
Hemiptoe  1

Diteatet.
Hemorrhage  6
Haemorrhoids . . i  1
Inflammation of Brain  5
Inflammation of Bowels ... 3
Insanity  7
Intemperance  17
Jaundice  3
Liver Complaint  13
Locked Jaw  6
Menorrhagia  1
Old Age  59
Palsy  6
Peripneumony  1
Pleurisy  ,. 5
Rheumatism  1
Scrofula  3
Small Pox  49
Sore Throat  3
Spasm  11
Strangulated Hernia  3
Sudden Death  4
Suffocation  2
Suicide  2
Sun Struck  2
Swine Pox  1
Teething  13
Thrush  5
Varioloid  3
Violence  1

Total..

.840

Black Males  253
Black Females  234
"487

White Males  228
White Females  .125 353
Of the White Persons,* there were —
Natives of this State .-..,  , 
Of different parts of the United States 
Foreigners 

188 74 91

* The above may give an idea of the ordinary diseases prevalent in Charles
ton : observing, however, that this was not a " yellow fever year.' The targe
proportion of deaths under the article consumption, arises chiefly, if not alto
gether, from this circumstance, that in the fall of the year, great numbers of
consumptive patients leave the north to enjoy the mild weather which pre
vails in Charleston during the winter. Consumption is not a native of Caro.
Una.

THE END.

SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES.

Sir James E. Anderson, Kt. Physician, Royal Yacht,
London, 2 copies.
Rev. Mr Archibald Bennie, Stirling-.
David Blackburn, Esq. West Bath-street.
Dr M. S. Buchanan, Buchanan-street, 2 copies.
Mr Hugh Brown, Jun. Virginia Place.
Mr Peter Bryson, Saltmarket-street,
Mr James Brock, Merchant, Wilson-street.
Rev. Mr John Byers.
Robert Brown, Esq. Merchant, 18, South Frederick-street.
Mr Alexander Baird, Timber Merchant, Port Dundas.
James Cleland, Esq. LL.D.
Mr John Craig, Cardross.
Mr D. Campbell, Librarian, Buchanan-street.
Mr George Crawford, Writer, Virginia-street.
Dr Samuel Clarke, High-street.
Mr Allan Cuthbertson, Accountant, George-street.
Mr John Campbell, Glassford-street.
Mr John Calder, Merchant, Ingram-street.
Mr John Clark, jun. Cotton Spinner, Mile End.
Mr Andrew Crombie, Solicitor, Edinburgh.
Mr John Donald, Hutcheson-street.
Mr Thomas Downie, Glasgow Bank.
Mr Samuel Dow, Stockwell-street.
Mr William Douglas.

SUBSCRIBERS NAMES.
William Leckie Ewing, Esq. Merchant, West Bath-street
James Ellis, Esq. Merchant, 18, South Frederick-street.
Kirkman Finlay, Esq. of Castle Toward.
William Frew, Esq. Merchant, Monteith Row.
John Freeland, Esq. Writer, Miller-street.
Mr James Finlay, Merchant, Stirling Square.
Mr William Galbraith, Dumbarton Mills, 10 copies.
William Galbraith, Esq. of Black-house, Stirling.
H. A. Galbraith, Esq. Superintendent Royal Lunatic Asylum,
Glasgow, 4 copies.
Mr William L. Graham.
James Galbraith, Esq. Merchant.
James Graham, Esq. of Leitchtoun, Edinburgh.
Mr Peter S. Gordon, Writer, 85, Trongate.
Mr John Galbraith, Dumbarton.
Alexander Glasgow, Esq. Merchant, Blythsvvood Hill.
Mr John Gray.
Dr David Gibson, Wilson-street, 2 copies.
Mr A. M. Gordon, Edinburgh.
Mr William Galbraith, High-street.
Mr John Hood, Merchant, Brunswick-street.
Robert Hood, Esq. Candleriggs.
Mr Robert Hood, High-street.
Mr Thomas Hutcheson, Argyle-street.
Miss Houstoun, Matron Royal Lunatic Asylum, 2 copies.
Mr Robert Jamieson, Writer, Argyle-street.
Mr William Jamieson, Merchant, Union-street, 2 copies.

SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES.
Mr Alexander Kirkwood, Mitchell-street.
Mr Archibald G. Kidston, Merchant, Queen-street.
Mr Robert Knox, Merchant, Virginia Place.
Robert Kaye, Esq. Gallowgate.
Mr George Kirkland, Gallowgate.
Mr R. M. Leckie, Dublin, 3 copies.
Lieutenant Liddte, Hamilton.
Mr Robert Liddle, Writer, Edinburgh.
Henry Monteith, Esq. of Carstairs.
Mr James Mutrie, Merchant, Argyle-street.
Rev. Mr William Mair.
William M'Gavin, Esq. Banker, Queen-street.
Mr Archibald M'Lean, Trongate.
Mr William M'Kechnie, Stirling-street.
Mr Robert M'Aulay, Princes-street.
Archibald M'Lellan, jvm. Esq. Miller-street.
Mr Walter M'Feat, Librarian, Glassford-street.
Thomas M'Kenzie, Esq. Banker, Hamilton.
Mr Archibald M'Fadyen, Writer, Hamilton.
Mr Peter Neilson, Saltmarket-street.
Mr William T. Nimmo, Royal Bank.
Mr William Neilson, Writer, Hutcheson-street.
Patrick Neilson, Esq. of Camoquill, Mutcheson-street.
Mr William Neilson, Merchant, Stirling Square.
M. M. Pattison, Esq. Buchanan-street.
John Pattison, Esq. Queen-street.
David Pirrie, Esq. Merchant, Blythswood Square.

SUBSCRIBERS NAMES.
Mr Adam Reid, Montrose-street.
Mr Robert Rodger, Buchanan-street.
Mr David Robertson, Trongate, 6 copies.
Mr John Stewart, Merchant, 97, Brunswick-street.
James Stevenson, Esq. Hutcheson-street.
George Salmond, Esq. Stockwell-street.
Mr William Snell, jun. Merchant, Ingram-street.
Mr Alexander Stewart, Surgeon, Candleriggs-street.
Mr John Shirra, High-street.
Mr John Sharp, Hamilton.
Mr William Todd, Miller Street.
Mr James Todd, Trongate.
Mr John Tosh, Virginia-street.
Mr David Tweedie, Gallowgate.
Mr John Tennent, St Rollox, 2 copies.
Mr James Thomson, Writer, George Square.
Mr John Ure, 16, Montrose7street.
Mr John Wilkie, Writer, Argyle-street.
Mr Andrew Waters, Hutcheson-street.
Mr William Willis, Ingram-street.
Mr John Wilson, Merchant, Argyle-street.
James Wingate, Esq. Insurance Broker, Royal Exchange.
Mr Andrew Young, Merchant, Brunswick-street.

YALE UNIVERSITY

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