YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY ^gv^ IN MEMORY OF SAMUEL AMOS YORK YALE 1863 FROM THE FUND ESTABLISHED IN 1924 BY HIS SON SAMUEL ALBERT YORK YALE 1890 This book was digitized by Microsoft Corporation in cooperation with Yale University Library, 2008. You may not reproduce this digitized copy of the book for any purpose other than for scholarship, research, educational, or, in limited quantity, personal use. You may not distribute or provide access to this digitized copy (or modified or partial versions of it) for commercial purposes. ^ \ EEJOTTEE. &GuWfli>E© IB¥" Qj4^/,Sn.r-n hesius, consisting of the four Gospels in Greek, with various readings, beautifully written, No. 528; the Epistle of St. Paul to the Galatians in Arabic; the Old * An engraving of this group was pubhshed in the " Collection of Prints in Imitation of Drawings," by C. Rogers, Esq., F.R.S., two vols, foho, 1778; and the principal figure (St. Aldhelm) was introduced by Strutt among the illustrations of the " Dress and Habits of the People of England." 5 + HISTORY OF SURREY. Testament in Armenian; the whole Bible, Wycliffe's translation, with the Prologue of St. Jerome, No. 25 ; and another English translation of the Bible, apparently of the fifteenth century, but differing from the version by Wycliffe. Here are several Latin Psalters beautifully Avritten and illuminated, one of which has an interlined Saxon version ; and a Hebrew Psalter, with a Latin glossary. Among the works of the Christian fathers are a fine manuscript of St. Augustine's Exposition of Genesis, St. Chrysostom's Exposition of St. Matthew, and the works of St. Cyprian, together with several Scripture Expositions of Bede in fine preservation, some Anglo-Saxon sermons of the tenth century, and a volume of Saxon Homilies written in the twelfth century. Among the missals is a very beautiful Salisbury missal, folio, on vellum, supposed to have belonged to Archbishop Chichele, his arms, finely emblazoned, being inserted in two places. Here are several extremely valuable manuscripts of Greek and Latin classics, including Aristotle, No. 1204 ; Variorum Auctorum Grascorum Opuscula, No. 1206, including some pieces that have never been published ; the Orations of Demosthenes, No. 1207 ; a manuscript of the Works of Virgil, of the thirteenth century, No. 471 ; Sallust, of the same date, No. 759 ; and with these may be mentioned Cicero's Offices, printed on vellum, by John Fust, at Mentz, 1466, with interlinear manuscript notes, No. 765. Among the manuscripts peculiarly relating to the see of Canterbury are the Lambeth Eegisters, as they are called, anciently kept in the priory of St. Gregory at Canterbury. These Eegisters occupy about forty folio volumes, written on vellum. The names by which they are called, and the times of their respective continuance, are as follow : — Peckham from 1279—1292 Winchelsey 1294—1313 Reynolds 1314—1322 There are not any Registers of the Archbishops Mepham, Stratford, Ufford, and Bradwardin remain ing : they held the see Islip ... Langham Wittlesey SudburyCourtenay Arundel, two vols. Chichele, two vols. StaffordKempBourchier ... Morton (Cardinal) DeaneWarham 1322—1349 1349—1366 1366—1368 1368—1374 1375—1381 1381—1391 1397—1413 1414—14411443—1452 1452—1453 1454—1486 1486—14981498—14991504—1532 Cranmer Pole (Cardinal) Parker, two vols. Grindal Whitgift, three vols. Bancroft Abbot, three vols. . . Laud, two vols. 1533—15531556—15581559—1575 1575—1583 1583—1604 1604— 161C 1610—16331633—1644 See vacant sixteen years. Juxon SheldonSancroft TillotsonTenison, two vols. Wake, three vols. Potter 1660—1663 1663—1667 1667—1691 1691—1694 1694—17131713—1736 1736—1747 The Registers of the subsequent primates were kept at Doctors' Commons until that office was transferred to Somerset House. LAMBETH. 55 These records relate to a vast variety of subjects, and contain entries of acts respecting the temporalities of the archbishops ; homages ; popes' bulls ; letters to and from popes, cardinals, kings, princes, and others ; commissions and proxies ; dispensations ; appeals ; marriages ; divorces ; institutions and collations to benefices ; appropriations of livings ; regulations of religious houses ; enrolments and registrations of wills and testaments ; pro cesses ; sentences ; and a multitude of other judicial acts and instruments of various kinds passing under the cognisance of the archbishops of this see. Among other records belonging to this see are two large folio volumes of Papal Bulls, arranged alphabetically according to the names of the Eoman pontiffs, from Alexander III., in 1155, to Clement VII., in 1534 ; Ancient Charters and other instruments relating to this archiepiscopal see, chiefly of the time of Henry VIII., in thirteen volumes ; Notitia Parochialis, in six volumes ; Eeferences to Endowments of Vicarages, by Dr. Ducarel, in two folio volumes ; and accurate transcripts of the Parliamentary surveys made of the property of bishops, deans, and chapters, with a view to its sale, during the Commonwealth, in twenty-one folio volumes, with a manuscript index. This collection is stored with manuscripts relating to English history, both civil and ecclesiastical. Such are those styled the " Chronicle of St. Alban's," a folio on vellum, finely illuminated, of the time of Henry VL, No. 6 ; the " Chronicle of Marianus Scotus," No. 42 ; Caxton's " Chronicle," differing much from his printed work, but imperfect, No. 84 ; an " Epitome of Chronicles," No. 386 ; several collections of Histories, Nos. 99, 188, and 419 ; and copies of Matthew of Westminster, Geoffrey of Monmouth, and other monkish historians. Here also are many important documents connected with the history, &c, of Scotland, Wales, Ireland, and France, and particularly of the relations of the latter country with England in the reigns of Henry V. and VI. , together with numerous documents relating to the affairs of other European nations, and to the travels and missionary proceedings of the Jesuits. In manuscripts on Heraldry and Genealogy the library is very rich, many manu scripts on those subjects being written or corrected by Lord Burghley. Here are stores of old English poetry and romances : among the former, Lydgate's Works, and GaAven Douglas's Translation of Virgil's iEneid; and among the latter the metrical legend of Sir Libeaus Disconus, of which Eitson published an edition, but from another manuscript. Numerous interesting letters are preserved here, as well of royal personages as distinguished literati. Among these are the letters of Lord Verulam, published by Dr. Birch ; those of his brother, Anthony Bacon, forming sixteen volumes ; the letters of 56 HISTORY OF SURREY. the Earl of Shrewsbury, and of many other persons from the latter part of the reign of Henry VIII. until the commencement of James I. The library was transferred to the great hall by Archbishop Howley in 1834, previously to which time it had been located in some galleries over the cloisters, which were then standing. In 1876 the great hall was used as the Arches Court of Canterbury for the trial of cases brought before the Dean of the Court of Arches under the " Public Worship Eegulation Act." The apartment was fitted up for the accommodation of the bar, reporters, witnesses, &c, and the judge, Lord Penzance, occupied the Archbishop's chair. In 1869 Archbishop Tait appointed as honorary curator of the library the Venerable Archdeacon Hale, who only lived one year after the appointment. Since 1872 this office has been held by the late Dr. Selwyn, Bishop of Lichfield ; the late Professor Selwyn ; and the Very Eev. G. H. S. Johnson, Dean of Wells. In 1879 Dr. Selwyn's place was filled up by the appointment of Dr. Durnford, Bishop of Chichester. The first librarian at Lambeth was Henry Wharton, who published the "Anglia Sacra " and other learned works. His successors were Paul Colomiez, a French refugee ; Dr. Edmund Gibson, afterwards Bishop of Lincoln, and translated to London in 1723 ; Dr. Benjamin Ibbot, made a Prebendary of Westminster in 1724 ; Dr. David Wilkins, the learned editor of " Concilia Magnee Brit, et Hib.," &c. ; John Henry Ott, M.A., a Swiss clergyman ; John Jones, M.A. ; Henry Hall, M.A. ; Dr. Andrew O Ducarel, a native of Normandy, the author of "Anglo-Norman Antiquities" and the "History of Lambeth Palace," and also the compiler of several indices to the MSS. ; * Dr. Michael Lort, sometime Greek Professor at Cambridge ; Henry John Todd, M.A., editor of Milton and of Johnson's Dictionary, and author of various works ; the Eev. William Stubbs, M.A., Eegius Professor of Modern History in the University of Oxford, and author of the " Constitutional History of England," &c. ; and the present librarian and keeper of the manuscripts, Mr. S. W. Kershaw, M.A., the author of " The Art Treasures of Lambeth Library," a description ofthe illuminated MSS., &c, published in 1873. In 1873-4 the whole of the books and manuscripts were thoroughly repaired and re-catalogued for use by a special grant from the Ecclesiastical Commissioners. It may be added here that the library is freely open to students on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays for all literary purposes. Nearly adjoining to the great hall, northward, is the entrance to the offices which communicate with the Lollards' Tower, now forming the northern extremity of the * Some interesting biographical anecdotes of Dr. Ducarel were given by the late Mr. John Nichols in hia " History of the Parish of Lambeth." LAMBETH. 57 buildings in the outer court. This is a strong fabric, embattled, and chiefly constructed of dark red brick, but faced with stone on its outer sides. It was erected by Archbishop Chichele, as before stated, and derives its name from the persecuted sect called Lollards, some of whom are known to have been examined and were most likely imprisoned here in the time of the Archbishop.* In the exterior wall on the Thames side is a Gothic niche, wherein formerly stood tbe image of St. Thomas a Becket, the cost of Avhich was 13s. 4d. Beneath it are some sculptured remains of the arms of Chichele. The principal apartment in this tower has been denominated the Post-room, from a strong octangular post or pillar that sustains the great timbers of its low roof or ceiling. This is flat and panelled ; each intersection exhibits an ornamental carving of angels with scrolls, &c, together with other figures, one of which is a head remarkable for its resemblance to Henry VIII. This room derives light from three deeply splayed windows on the west side. On the opposite side is the entrance to the chapel, formed by a large semicircular stone arch springing from small columns, and enclosing two trefoil-headed doorways, having a quatrefoil in the central space abo\Te. The ascent to the Lollards' prison is from a small door in the post-room by a steep spiral staircase, the steps of which are much worn. It is approached by a narrow low- pointed archway of stone, barely of sufficient size to admit one person to pass at a time. This is secured both by an inner and an outer door of strong oak, each Z\ inches thick, closely studded with iron rivets, and with fastenings to correspond. On entering the attention is arrested by the large iron rings fixed in the walls about breast high in the following order : three on the south, four on the west, and one on the north side. This chamber is nearly 15 feet in length, about 11 feet in width, and 8 feet high. It has two narrow windows enlarging inwardly, one to the west, the other to the north : on the latter side are also a small fireplace and chimney.-]* Many incisions have been made in the oaken wainscoting by the unhappy persons imprisoned here, consisting of initials, * Wilkins, " Concilia," vol. hi. pp. 404, 405. (See also the Register of Archbishop Chichele, vol. ii. fol. 57, a.) Archbishop Warham's proceedings against divers reputed heretics in his court at Lambeth in 1511 are mentioned in Bishop Burnet's " History of the Reformation ; " and in 1531 the celebrated Hugh Latymer, after being excommunicated for a supposed act of contumacy, was ordered by the same primate to remain in close custody in his "manor of Lambeth." One of the charges against Latymer was " a denial of purgatory," in saying " he had lever [rather] be in purgatory than in Lollards' tower." But whether by that expression he meant the Bishop of London's prison, so called, in Old St. Paul's, or that at Lambeth, is questionable. In former times the archbishops distinguished their residence here by the name of Lambeth House and the Manor of Lambeth, and not by the modern title of Palace, many examples of which may be found in their letters, even of a date subsequent to the Restoration. t This prison is not within the large tower of which the post-room forms a part, but in a small adjoining tower, or attachment, of a square form, projecting from it on the north side. That the archbishops had prisons here before this tower was constructed is evident from the Registers of the see, and possibly on this very site, an old stone buildin<* which stood upon the spot having been pulled down to make room for the new tower. VOL. III. I eg HISTORY OF SURREY. names, short sentences, crosses, dice, &c. The letters, mostly in the old English character are in general very rudely formed. The folloAving are specimens : — I hr— John J^r-Ite giarbtor att& ezmibdar. Ihs rjjppr mr cat of nil rt comptne. amm ~§to it ^vatisru [grariarii] aciitf. gLosci tr ips'm.— rata m0x:ens. — gi)ic abit. -pint SBarih.— rhe««am iorter.— a <#.rlrji. The Lollards' Tower consists of three stories above the post-room, and the apartments in it were for many years used as lumber-rooms. Having fallen into a dilapidated condition, the toAver Avas thoroughly restored in 1869, when it was turned to account as the town residence of the late Bishop of Lichfield, Dr. Selwyn. From the post-room, as already stated, there is an entrance to the chapel, which bears sufficient marks of antiquity to warrant an opinion of its being coeval with the time when this estate first became a fixed archiepiscopal residence.* The interior, divided into an inner and an outer chapel by an elaborately carved screen, is 72 feet in length, 25 feet in breadth, and 30 feet in height. Formerly the roof had been concealed by a flat panelling, embellished with the arms of the Archbishops Laud, Juxon, and Cornwallis ; but this, during the alterations in the palace above referred to, has given place to a vaulting in plaster, enriched with coloured subjects from the heavenly hierarchies. At the east end are five long lancet-shaped lights, and on each side are three triplicated windows resembling those in the Temple Church. In 1878 the whole of the windows were renewed with coloured glass, designs from scriptural subjects, by Messrs. Clayton and Bell, and at the expense of Archbishop Tait. Against the central division of the Avest window (next the Lollards' Tower), long closed up, is affixed a small semi-hexagon kind of Gothic shrine, supported by an angel holding a shield sculptured with the arms of Juxon. This chapel, as we have seen, having been despoiled during the civil wars, was indebted for its renova tion to Archbishop Juxon, but the screen or partition "which makes it two," as Laud mentions in his "Diary," and which he describes as being "just in the same place where it now stands from the very building of the chapel," was most probably set up by that archbishop, his arms being carved on a shield above the doorway. In the outer chapel, Avhich forms a kind of vestibule, is a small gallery, now appropriated to the female * In Archbishop Peckham's Register is a mandate (almost illegible) for the reparation " Capellse manerii de Lambeth," dated at North Elmham in 1280. A new altar appears to have been erected, and a re-consecration to have taken place in honour of the blessed Virgin, in 1407. (Register, Arundel, pars i. fol. 147, 6.) The " Great chapel " is mentioned in the " Computus Ballivorum " of 15 Edward II., as well as in other ancient documents at Lambeth. Here also were two " Oratories," in one of which divers ordinations were celebrated, as recorded in the Registers of the see, very early in the fifteenth century. LAMBETH. 59 domestics : this was formerly occupied as an organ gallery, but no organ has been here for a long series of years.* The only memorials of interment here have reference to Archbishop Parker, who died in 1575. By his own desire his bowels were deposited in an urn in Lambeth Church (where his wife lay buried), and his body interred near the communion-table, on the south side, where he had caused his own tomb to be " erected while he was yet alive," near the spot where " he used to pray." f The demolition of this tomb and the recovery and re-interment of his remains have been noticed already.^ Archbishop Sancroft, who had taken an active part in the latter proceedings, also composed the following epitaph, inscribed on a small plate of brass affixed to the east end of another plain tomb that Sancroft raised to his memory in the outer chapel.: § — Matth>ei Archiepiscopi Cenotaphium, corpus enim, (ne nescias, lector,) in adyto hujus sacelli ohm rite conditum, a sectariis perduellibus, anno mdcxlviii, effracto sacrilege hoc ipso tumulo, elogio sepulchrali impic rofixo, direptis nefarie exuviis plumbeis, spoliatum, violatum, eliminatum ; etiam sub sterquilinio (proh scehis !) abstrusum : rege demum (plaudente ccelo & terra) redeunte, ex decreto Baronum Anglia;, sedulo requcesitum, et sacello postliminio redditum, in ejus quasi medio tandem quiescit. Et qvibscat utinam, non nisi tubS ultima solicitandum. Qyi DENVO DESECBAVEEIT SACER ESTO. It has been often alleged that Archbishop Parker was irregularly consecrated at the Nag's Head Tavern, in Cheapside, by the hands of one bishop only ; but there is eAridence that * Archbishop Parker bequeathed an organ — " organa chorialia in sacello Lambithi sita " — to his successors. The following curious passage occurs in the will of Archbishop Laud : — ." Item, I give to my successor (if the present troubles in the state leave me any), my Organ in the Chapel at Lambeth, provided he leave it to the See for ever. Likewise I give him my barge and the furniture to it. But in case the Archbishopric be dissolved, as it is threatened, then I will that my executor add the organ, the barge, and such pictures as are mine, to my estate ; that is, if they escape plundering." + Vide Strype's " Life and Acts of Archbishop Parker," &c. pp. 494 — 498, folio, 1711. X See ante, p. 46. § Queen Ehzabeth reposed great confidence in Archbishop Parker, and frequently visited him in his palace. But the hospitality with which she was treated could not altogether restrain her from expressing her indignation at the prelate's breach of celibacy. She had never, indeed, been perfectly reconciled to that part of the Reformation which allowed the marriage of ecclesiastics ; and Parker had not only written a pamphlet hi its support, but absolutely entered the nuptial bands prior to the repeal of the statutes forbidding the priests to marry. On one occasion, the haughty Queen " being once above the rest greatlie feasted " by the Archbishop and his lady, could not, at her departure, forbear intimating her sentiments in the following rude and uncourteous manner. After giving the Archbishop " very especiall thanks, with gratious and honourable terms," she looked upon his wife, and said, " And you — Madam I may not call you, and Mistress I am ashamed to call you ; so I know not what to call you, but yet I do thanke you." (See Harrington's "Nugse Antiquae," vol. ii. p. 16, edit. 1804.) i 2 60 HISTORY OF SURREY. his consecration took place in this chapel, December 17th, 1559, and that it was conducted according to the " duly appointed ordinal of the Church of England." * The officiating prelates were William Barlow and John Scory, the Bishops elect of Chichester and Hereford ; Miles Coverdale, Bishop of Exeter ; and John Hodskin, Suffragan Bishop of Bedford. Since that era the consecrations in Lambeth Chapel were very numerous down to about the year 1860, after which most consecrations have taken place in Westminster Abbey or Whitehall. Beneath the chapel is a crypt, supposed to have been anciently used for divine worship. It consists of a series of strongly groined arches of stone, supported in the centre by a massive column, and by brackets in the side walls. Its present height is about 10 feet, but the ground has been much raised : the length is 36 feet, and the width about 24 feet. On entering the spacious quadrangle forming the inner court, we observe that on the west side it is bounded by the library (Juxon's hall) and great dining-room (once the guard-chamber), on the north by the new buildings of the palace, on the east by extensive stabling and offices, and on the south by the wall separating it from Lambeth Churchyard. \ The alterations and erections of Dr. Howley's time were executed from the designs of Mr. Edward Blore. These buildings are of Bath stone : the south or principal front is 160 feet in width, and is distinguished by two octagonal towers 84 feet high, between which is the main entrance, formed by an obtuse arch surmounted by armorial shields and other ornaments. The entrance hall, about 30 feet by 26, communicates with many spacious rooms on the chamber floor ; also with the principal floor by a high flight of steps skirted by elaborate open-work balustrades, and leading to a long corridor, the ceiling and sides of which are elegantly panelled. On this floor, at the north end, is the Archbishop's private library and sitting-room, measuring 44 feet by 26. Here, over the fireplace, is an original portrait, on board, of Archbishop Warham, consecrated in 1504. This Avas painted by Holbein, and presented by him to the Archbishop himself, with a head of his friend Erasmus.^: The large bay * See Percival's "Apology for the Doctrine of Apostolical Succession, '' App. pp. 109 — 122, wherein copies are given of the original records of the consecration in Parker's Register at Lambeth, and in the library of Corpus Christi College at Cambridge. t In the intervals between the buttresses of the library some cuttings from the two fig-trees traditionally reported to have been planted by Cardinal Pole are now in a state of vigorous growth. The trees, of the white Marseilles kind, and producing exceUent fruit, were destroyed with the old buildings during the late alterations. X Both the above pictures passed by the wills of Archbishop Warham and his successors until they came to Arch bishop Laud, after whose decapitation they were missing till the time of Sancroft, when that of AVarham was recovered by Sir William Dugdale, and returned to the palace : that of Erasmus was wholly lost. AVarham's portrait has been repaired and reframed. LAMBETH. bi window of this room commands a view of the Houses of Parliament and the Abbey church. Adjoining to this are the Archbishop's private apartments. In the drawing-room is a large picture of Charles I., his queen, and children, and thus inscribed: — This Picture was presented by King Charles I. to Sir Thomas Holt, of Aston Hall, Warwickshire ; where it was placed and remained till the year 1817, when it was given by Heneage Legge, Esq., to Mary Frances Howley.* In the ante-room is another full-length portrait of Charles I., ascribed to Vandyke ; also an old picture on panel of the four fathers of the Western Church, viz. — St. Ambrose, St. Jerome, St. Augustine, and St. Gregory — with the Holy Spirit as a dove above them. This, with two other ancient paintings long since lost, had belonged to Cardinal Pole. Adjoining to the picture gallery, on the west, is the great dining-room, occupying the exact space of the ancient guard-chamber, which was rebuilt and converted to its present use during the alterations above referred to. In the " Computus Ballivorum " of Henry VI. it is expressly mentioned under the name "Camera Armigerorum," from being the repository for the arms kept for the defence of the palace in old times, as was customary in all con siderable houses. Archbishop Parker gave by will all his arms, both at Lambeth and Canterbury, to his successors in the see, provided they were accepted in lieu of dilapidations. It seems, however, that such acceptance never took place, but that they subsequently passed to each succeeding primate by purchase, for Archbishop Laud distinctly says that he bought the arms at Lambeth " of his predecessor's executors." During the plundering of Lambeth House in 1642, those weapons, the quantity of which had been much exaggerated in order to increase the popular odium against the Archbishop, were taken away, and it does not appear that any considerable collection of arms was ever afterwards made here.f This apartment is 58 feet long, 27 feet 6 inches wide, and proportionably high. It is chiefly remarkable for its venerable timber roof, consisting of a strong framework of pointed arches in five compartments, resting on brackets, and having pierced spandrels, &c, in the style of our ancient halls. This was underpropped and preserved when the new walls * Sir Thomas Holt was one of the most faithful adherents to the royal cause, and his son attended in arms on the King himself, who was entertained at Aston Hall two nights shortly previous to the battle of Edgehill. t In February, 1452, the Convocation which had met in St. Paul's Cathedral was, on account of the great infirmity of Archbishop Kemp, adjourned to the "manor of Lambeth," and to be continued from clay to day. On reassembling in this apartment, then distinguished as the high great chamber ("altft earner^ majori"), the collector of Pope Nicholas V., having represented the danger from which his Holiness and the conclave had escaped by the discovery of a conspiracy planned to destroy them, the Archbishop offered up a prayer of thanksgiving and praise for their dehverance. In this chamber, also, Archbishop Laud kept his state on the 19th of September, 1633, the day of his consecration, the King, Charles I., having enjoined him by letters, in the form of his translation, " to use all such ceremonies and offices and to carry himself with the same state and dignity, and to assume such Privileges and Pre-eminences as his Predecessors in the See had used and enjoyed heretofore." — MSS. Collect., Tenison, vol. i. f. 225, as quoted by Le Neve. 62 HISTORY OF SURREY. Avere constructed about 1832. On the west side is a large fireplace of freestone, enriched with ornamental turrets. In this room, besides smaller portraits, is a series of half and three-quarter lengths, of all the Archbishops of Canterbury from Laud to Dr. Sumner, arranged as follows : — William Laud, 1633 : a fine picture by Vandyke. He was beheaded on Tower Hill in 1644. William Juxon, 1660 : from a good original at Long- leat. This prelate (when Bishop of London) was held in high favour by Charles I., whom he attended on the scaffold, and received his last commands in the mysterious word " Remember." Gilbert Sheldon, 1663. Whilst chaplain to Charles I. he became witness, in 1646, to a remarkable vow made by that sovereign, to the effect that if it should please God to re-establish him in his throne and kingly rights, "he would give back to the Church all the impropriations and lands held by the Crown, taken away either from any episcopal see, or any other religious foundation." In his copy of the King's vow Sheldon attests that he had pre served it thirteen years underground. William Sancroft, 1678-79: deprived in 1690 for refusing to take the oaths appointed by Parliament after the Revolution of 1688. John Tillotson, 1691. Thomas Tenison, 1694 : by Simon Dubois. William Wale, 1715. John Potter, 1736. Thomas Herring, 1747 : painted b}r Hogarth. Matthew Hutton, 1757 : by Hudson. Thomas Seeker, 1758 : by Sir Joshua Reynolds. Hon. Frederick Cornwallis, 1768 : by Dance. John Moore, 1783. Charles Manners Sutton, 1805 : this is an expressive picture by Sir Wilham Beechey. William Howley, 1828 : finely executed by Sir Martin Archer Shee. John Bird Sumner. This portrait has recently been added to the collection. Besides the above, here are several smaller heads of the older archbishops, as Thomas Fitz- AUen, alias Arundel, 1396, a copy from a curious and unique portrait at Penshurst; Henry Chichele, 1413; Thomas Cranmer, 1533 ; and Edmund Grindal, 1576. Hero, too, is a well-painted portrait of Cardinal Pole, 1555, from an original in the Bar- berini Palace at Rome. In the picture gallery, which occupies the two remaining sides of the small cloister quadrangle that formerly contained the library, are the following among other pictures :— A small portrait of Archbishop Potter, when a boy six years of age (1680), holding the Greek Testa ment, which he is said to have nearly read at that early time of life. A portrait, said to be Archbishop Sancroft when a student (1650), with the motto, "Rapido contrarius orbi." Martin Luther : a small head on board, brought from Nttremberg. An old but imaginary head of St. Dunstan, on panel. A Countess of Devonshire, unknown. Dr. Christopher Wren (father of the great architect), small full-length, as Dean of the Garter: similar to the print in the " Parentalia." Cardinal Pole.* This is a curious old painting on board, executed in a hard and dry style, but most probably a genuine hkeness. On one side of the head are the arms of the Cardinal, viz. — Per pale, or and sab. a saltier engr. counterchanged, impaled with those of the see of Canterbury. Above is the following inscription, with other words, now ille gible : — Reginaldus Polus R. Cardinals Collegii Corporis Xpi Oxon. ohm Socius, Electus in dictm Collegiu, 14 Feb. [1523]. Queen Catherine Parr : an original three-quarter length, on board. She is depicted in a rich dress of scarlet and gold, the face being much younger and far more handsome than in the print engraved by Houbraken among the " Illustrious Heads." Eichard Fox, Bishop of Winchester, ob. 1528 • ono hand is placed upon a skull. * After the decease of the Cardinal in 1558, and prior to his interment in Archbishop Becket's Chapel at Canterbury, his body lay in great state at Lambeth during forty days. Whilst resident at this palace Cardinal Pole maintained great state and hospitality, and in 4 Philip and Mary he had a patent (still preserved here in the MS. Library) for retaining a hundred servants. LAMBETH. 63 Thomas Bilson, Bishop of Win 'hester, dated 1611, aged sixty-four. A small picture, called by Ducarel Martin Luther and his Wife: small three-quarter lengths, on board. This is painted with great truth and vigour, but is altogether unhke the common portraits of Luther, and more probably represents a Dutch burgomaster. He is looking most fondly on his wife, who appears to be with child. Luther throw off the monkish habit in 1524, and in the same year he married Catherine de Bore, who had been a nun, and with eight others had escaped from a nunnery in 1523. They had several children.* This piece has been said to be the work of Holbein, but it bears no resemblance to the style of that master : it has been copied on enamel by Bone. Archbishop Wai-ham : a copy from Holbein in the private library. Augustus Townshend, "born in 1745, second son to Charles, Lord Ariscount Townshend, by his second wife;" Charles, " Lord Viscount Townshend, Secre tary of State to George I. and George II., 1730 ;" Dorothy Walpole, "second wife to Lord Viscount Townshend, 1726;" Sir Eobert Walpole, K.G., " created Earl of Orford, 1741,"+ ob. 1745.". These, all full-lengths, were apparently executed by the same artist. Archbishop Whitgift, 1583 : small, on panel, with his arms. Ob. 1604. Archbishop John Moore: a small whole-length, 1783. John Warren, D.D., Bishop of Bangor. Ob. 1800, set. seventy. Henry, Prince of AVales, eldest son of James I., full- length. This is a curious picture, both from the costume and the manner of execution. Gilbert Burnet, Bishop of Sarum (1689), in his robes as Chancellor of the Garter ; finely coloured. John Hough, Bishop of Oxford, 1690; afterwards of Lichfield and Coventry, 1699 ; and of AArorcester, 1717 : ob. 1743. This was painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller. Simon Patrick, Bishop of Ely, 1691. He was an eniment casuist, and one of those who engaged in the conference " On the Rule of Faith," &c, before James II., with the Popish doctors Giffard and Godden, in which the latter were so closely pressed by their antagonists that the King left them abruptly, and was heard to say that he "never knew a bad cause so well, nor a good one so ill maintained." An old south view of the Cathedral at Canterbury, brought from Croydon. This is a curious delinea tion, but has been pieced in order to introduce a sky and foreground. Archbishop Herring, 1747. Archbishop Wake, 1715. James Gardiner, Bishop of Lincoln, 1694. Dr. Bundle, Bishop of Derry, in 1735. George Hardinge, Esq., M.A., when young: a full- length, painted with great spirit and brilhancy. Near the latter is a small piece representing the upper part of an emaciated figure in bed, appa rently dead, a cap being nearly drawn over the eyes. This is said to be Archbishop Juxon after his decease ; most probably with truth, as the features closely resemble those of his portrait in the dining- room. Archbishop Sheldon: a large picture representing him sitting with a book. John Williams, Bishop of Chichester, 1696. William Lloyd, Bishop of AVorcester, 1699. He was one of the seven bishops committed to the Tower by James II. Hi3 countenance is of a very primitive cast, and Burnet eulogizes him for his humility and goodness. John Moore, Bishop of Ely, 1707. John Evans, Bishop of Bangor, 1701 ; and of Meath, in Ireland, 1715. William Fleet-wood, Bishop of Ely, 1714. " Georgius Berkeley, S.T.P. Consec. Ep. Cleonensis, Man 19, 1755." John Thomas, Bishop of Winchester, 1774. This picture, by Dance, has the date 1761, at which time he was Dean of Westminster. Richard Terrich, Bishop of London, 1764, also by Dance : both are cleverly painted. Benjamin Hoadly, D.D., Bishop of Bangor, 1715; translated to Hereford in 1721 ; to Salisbury in 1723 ; and to Winchester in 1734. This was painted by Mrs. Sarah Hoadly, the Bishop's wife, and is an estimable specimen of female talent. Zachariah Pearce, D.D., Bishop of Bangor, 1748 ; and of Rochester in 1756. This is a fine portrait. Sir Thomas Gooch, Bart., translated from the see of Norwich to Ely in 1748 : this is dated 1750 ; a;t. seventy-six. John Douglas, D.D., Bishop of Carlisle, 1787; Dean of AVinchester, and Registrar of the Order of the * In a letter written by Erasmus, dated in 1526, is this passage : — " Luther's marriage is certain : the report of his wife being so speedily brought to bed is false ; but I hear that she is now with child. If the common story be true, that Antichrist shall be born of a monk and a nun, as some pretended, how many thousands of Antichrists are there in the world already!" + The date 1741 on the picture is incorrect. Sir Robert was created Baron of Houghton, Viscount Walpole, and Earl of Orford, in 1742 — two days only before he resigned office. 64 HISTORY OF SURREY. Garter: painted by Sir Wilham Beechey in 1789. Archbishop Parker, painted in 1572 by Richard Lyne, This prelate was translated to Salisbury in 1791, an artist of considerable merit, retained by the Arch- and died in 1807. bishop on his estabhshment, and under whom he Archbishop Tillotson, 1691. This was formerly in the conjointly practised the sister arts of painting and old dining-room, and Lysons, speaking of the engraving. Lysons says it was presented to the portraits there, remarks that " Archbishop Tillotson Archbishop by the painter, but having been lost was the first prelate who wore a wig [as here repre- during the civil wars, was recovered by Sir W. sented], then not unhke the natural hair, and worn Dugdale. It bears much resemblance to a small without powder." portrait of the Archbishop engraved by R. Berg Archbishop Abbot, 1610 : an expressive and finely (Remigius Hogenberg), also retained at the palace coloured picture. by that prelate. In one of the leading passages is a fine portrait by Owen of Dr. Bell, the founder of the Madras or National System of Education ; and in the drawing-room is a portrait of the late Archbishop Longley, painted by Eichmond. Many important events have taken place within the walls of this palace, which are intimately associated with our domestic annals and the characters and actions of many of our sovereigns and eminent forefathers; but the great length to which already this account has necessarily extended renders it inexpedient to enter into further details, unless of a very general character. Lambeth House, says Lysons,* "has, at various times, proved an asylum for learned foreigners, obliged to flee from the intolerant spirit of their oavii countrymen. Here the early reformers, Martyr and Bucer, found a safe retreat ; and the learned Antonio, Arch bishop of Spalatro, was entertained by Archbishop Abbot." The archbishops resident here have frequently been honoured by visits from their respective sovereigns. Henry VIII. was a guest of Warham in 1513 ; and one evening in 1543 he crossed the Thames to Lambeth Bridge to acquaint Cranmer (whom he called into his barge) of the plot formed against him by the dignitaries of his own Church, under the secret encouragement of Bishop Gardiner, "who," it was said, "had bent his bow to shoot at some of the head deer." After the battle of Solway Moss in 1542 many of the Scottish nobility were made prisoners and sent to London. Among them was the Earl of Cassilis, who was committed to the charge of Archbishop Cranmer at Lambeth. During his sojourn here Cranmer earnestly endeavoured to convince him of the errors of Eomanism, and with so much success that the Earl, on his release and return to Scotland, is reported to have been instrumental in establishing the reformed opinions in that kingdom. Queen Mary is said to have completely furnished Lambeth House at her own expense for the reception of Cardinal Pole, and she was several times his visitant during his short * "Environs," vol. i. p. 274. LAMBETH. 65 primacy. The visits of Elizabeth to Archbishop Parker have been already noticed ; but his successor, Grindal, very soon incurred the Queen's displeasure, and was privately com manded " to keepe his house," where he was never greeted by her smiles. On the contrary, Whitgift, the next archbishop, was many times favoured by the Queen's presence, and she occasionally stayed with him two or three days. Her successor, James, also visited Whitgift, the last time being on a mournful occasion (February 28th, 1604), when the primate was paralytic, and on his death-bed : he expired, indeed, on the following day. The Protestant Queen Mary had a conference here with Archbishop Tillotson in 1694. In 1642 Captain Brown, with a party of soldiers, entered Lambeth House to keep it for the Parliament. Shortly after the House of Commons voted that it should be made a prison, and that Dr. Leighton, who had been a severe sufferer under the despotic inflictions of the Star Chamber Court, should be appointed Keeper. Among the King's friends subse quently confined here Avere Sir George Bunkley, Lieut.-Governor of Oxford, who had distinguished himself at the siege of Basing ; the Eev. Eichard Allestry, afterwards D.D. and Provost of Eton, an emissary of the Eoyalists, who narroAvly escaped a public trial ; Sir Thomas Armstrong, then a partisan of the Crown, afterwards executed for his con nivance in the Duke of Monmouth's rebellion ; and the Earls of Chesterfield and Derby. Long prior to this time, however, it had been frequently used as a prison for ecclesiastical or other offenders who had fallen under the displeasure of the sovereign. The deprived bishops, Tonstal of Durham, and Thirlby of Ely, were committed by Queen Elizabeth to the charge of Archbishop Parker immediately after his consecration ; and here they both died, the former in 1559, and the latter in 1570 : they were interred in Lambeth Church. Dr. Boxal, who had been Secretary to Queen Mary, was also imprisoned here. The palace library has twice of late years been the place of meeting of a Pan- Anglican Synod or Conference, at Avhich were assembled nearly all the bishops of the Protestant Episcopate from all the four quarters of the globe. The first was held in 1867 under Archbishop Longley, and the second in 1878 under Archbishop Tait. The following is a list of the Archbishops of this see who have expired at Lambeth, with the dates of their decease and the places of their burial : — These prelates were interred in Canterbury Cathedral. William Wittlesey, June 5th, 1375. John Kemp, March 22nd, 1453. Henry Deane, February 15th, 1505, Cardinal Pole, November 17th, 1558. Matthew Parker, May 17th, 1570: buried in Lambeth Chapel. John Whitgift, February 27th, 1604: buried in Croydon Church. Richard Bancroft, November 2nd, 1610 : buried in Lambeth Church. VOL. III. K 66 HISTORY OF SURREY. William Juxon, June 4th, 1663 : buried in the Chapel of St. John's College, Oxford. Gilbert Sheldon, November 9th, 1677 : buried in Croydon Church. John Tillotson, November 22nd, 1694: buried in the Church of St. Lawrence Jewry. Thomas Tenison, December 14th, 1715 : buried in Lambeth Church. William Wake, January 24th, 1736-7 : buried in Croydon Church. John Potter, October 10th, 1747 : buried in Croydon Church. Thomas Seeker, August 3rd, 1768 : buried in Lambeth Churchyard. Hon. Frederick Cornwallis, March 19th, 1783: buried in Lambeth Church. John Moore, January 18th, 1805 : buried in Lambeth Church. Charles Manners Sutton, July 21st, 1828 : buried in Addington Church. Eectory and Advowson of Lambeth. — In the Taxation of Pope Nicholas this living is valued at 45 marks, with the deduction of a pension to the Bishop of Eochester amounting to £3 6s. 8d. ; a quit-rent of 2s. 5d. to the Archbishop of Canterbury ; 2s. ld. for synodals ; and 7s. 7-|rd. for procurations. In the King's books it was valued at £36 14s., leaAdng the clear proceeds, after the above deductions, £32 15s. 2^d. The advowson, withheld in the grant of the manor by the Countess Goda, was given by William Eufus to the see of Eochester. It was transferred with the manor to the Arch bishops of Canterbury, who still possess the patronage. This benefice is in the deanery of Southwark. Rectors of Lambeth in and since 1800 : — 1. — William Vyse, LL.D. Instituted in 1777. 2. — Christopher Wordsivorth, D.D. Instituted in 1816. 3.— George Z>' Oyly, D.D. Instituted in 1820. 4. — Charles Brown Dalton, M.A. Instituted in 1846. 5. — John Fentiman Zingham, M.A. Instituted in 1854. Among the clergymen who have held this rectory several are deserving of notice, both on account of their learning and abilities and of the transactions in which they were more or less implicated. Gilbert de Glanville, Bishop of Eochester and Lord Chief Justice of England, was instituted to this rectory in 1196. Henry, Bishop of Joppa, was instituted in 1471. Nicholas Slake, or Selake, who obtained this living by exchange with Hugh de Buekenhull, for the custody of the free chapel of St. Eadegund in St. Paul's Cathedral, was Dean of St. Stephen's Chapel, and one of the obnoxious ministers of Eichard II. In 1388, when the Duke of Gloucester and his confederates assumed the administration of the government, this priest was numbered among " the suspected persons of the King's court and family who were awarded to prison to answer to the next parliament." He was LAMBETH. 67 confined in Nottingham Castle, but he probably escaped capital punishment on account of being an ecclesiastic. John Porye, educated at Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge, became Eector of Lambeth in 1563. He translated from the Latin " The Description of Africa," by John Leo, usually styled Zeo Africanus, Avho wrote in the early part of the sixteenth century, and of whose work a French translation was printed at Antwerp in 1556. Porye's Aversion appeared in 1600, with a dedication to Sir Eobert Cecil. Daniel Featley, whose family name was Fairclough, was bom at Charlton-upon-Otmore, near Oxford, in 1582. He was educated in the university in that city, and soon becoming eminent for. his learning and controversial talents in divinity, was admitted D.D. in 1617. In the following year he was instituted to this rectory by Archbishop Abbot, AA'ho also appointed him his domestic chaplain. Though a Calvinist in principle, he was a strong upholder of the English Church, which he defended by preaching and writing, as well against the Protestant sectaries as the Catholics ; and he excited the displeasure of Archbishop Laud by refusing to obey him " in turning the communion-table of Lambeth Church altar-wise." In 1642 he was appointed by the Parliament one of the Assembly of Divines ; yet his adherence to the established forms and usages of the Church gave great offence to the fanatics of the time ; so much so, indeed, that in 1642-3, in the midst of divine service, whilst the Te Deum was being sung, several soldiers rushed into Lambeth Church with pistols and drawn swords, with the intention, as appeared by their own expressions, of killing Dr. Featley. They are stated to have affrighted out the congregation, and to have killed two persons, but the doctor, having been " premonished " when on his way to preach, fortunately escaped their vengeance. In the same year he was deprived of his Church preferments, his house and library were seized, and himself committed to Petre House, in Aldersgate Street, then used as a place of confinement for state prisoners. This arose from a letter which he had written to Archbishop Usher at Oxford having been intercepted, and the contents of which showed a strong approach to double dealing. He desired the Archbishop to represent to the King that " he was secretly his friend, and kept his seat in the Assembly of Divines only to render him service ; " and he concluded with the request that " he might be promoted to the first vacant bishopric or deanery." After an imprisonment of about eighteen months, being in bad health, he was permitted upon bail to reside at Chelsea College, of which he was provost, for change of air ; and he died there in 1645, and was buried at Lambeth. His " Clavis Mystica," &c, " handled in 70 sermons," was published in quarto in 1636, but is now but little known, the publication for which he is chiefly remembered being that entitled " KaTa^aimaTai e 2 68 HISTORY OF SURREY. KarairrvaToi. The Dippers Dipt, ducked, and plunged over Head and Ears, at a Disputation in Southwark." In that work, Avritten during his imprisonment and printed in the year of his decease, he attacks the Anabaptists both by ridicule and argument. A portrait of the author, and a singular design for a sepulchral monument to his memory, are attached to it. In 1660 it AAras reprinted, but Avith an altered title, and a frontispiece representing the manner of dipping Anabaptist proselytes. Dr. George Hooper, a native of Worcestershire, was elected from Westminster School a student of Christ Church, Oxford, in 1657. At the university he became distinguished for his acquaintance with mathematics, and Grecian, Eoman, and Oriental literature. He was successively Chaplain to Dr. Morley, Bishop of Winchester, and Archbishop Sheldon, the latter of whom, in 1675, bestowed on him the rectory of Lambeth. He was subse quently patronised by the Princess of Orange, who made him her almoner, and when queen, in 1691, gave him the deanery of Canterbury. In 1703 he became Bishop of St. Asaph, when he resigned the living of Lambeth. His last preferment was to the see of Bath and Wells, which he held until his death in 1727. Bishop Hooper published several works in defence of the Church of England, which, with a learned treatise on Ancient Coins, Weights and Measures, and other pieces, were republished at Oxford, 1757, folio. Dr. Edmund Gibson was born at Bampton, in Westmoreland, in 1669. He entered as a scholar at Queen's College, Oxford, in 1686, and while there he devoted himself to the study of Anglo-Saxon antiquities, in which he was assisted by the learned Dr. George Hiekes. The result of his application appeared in an edition of the " Saxon Chronicle," with a Latin translation, published in 1692 ; and in 1694 was printed his translation of Camden's " Britannia," with Additions. In 1713 appeared his " Codex Juris Ecclesiastici Anglicani," a Araluable collection of juridical information. He was more distinguished as an editor than as an original writer. However, he published many tracts in defence of High Church principles, which procured him much temporary celebrity, but are now nearly forgotten. His pastoral letters in defence of Christianity have been often reprinted. Dr. Gibson was inducted to the rectory of Lambeth in 1703. He Avas also Archdeacon of Surrey, and was raised to the bishopric of Lincoln, vacant by the translation of Dr. Wake to Canterbury in 1715. On the death of Dr. Eobinson in 1720, he succeeded him as Bishop of London, and he presided over that diocese twenty-eight years, dying in 1748. - Beilby Porteus, D.D., was born at York in 1731. He was admitted a sizar at Christ's College, Cambridge, where he distinguished himself by gaining the Seatonian prize for a poem " On Death " in 1757. In 1762 he became Chaplain to Archbishop Seeker, who in 1767 gave him the rectory of Lambeth. In 1769 he was appointed Chaplain to the King, LAMBETH. 69 and Master of the Hospital of St. Cross, near Winchester. He was raised to the bishopric of Chester in 1776, and in 1787 translated to that of London. He died iu 1808. The works of Bishop Porteus were published, with an account of his life, by his nephew, the Eev. Eobert Hodgson, in six volumes octavo, 1823. His Lectures on St. Matthew's Gospel and a tract on the Evidences of Christianity have been often reprinted. Dr. George D'Oyly, the fourth son of the Ven. Matthias D'Oyly, Archdeacon of Lewes, and brother to Sir John D'Oyly, Bart., was some time one of the Examining Chaplains of the Archbishop of Canterbury. He was connected with all the more important religious societies, and the foundation of King's College, London, is generally understood to have been the result of suggestions emanating from him. In 1821 Dr. D'Oyly published a Life of Archbishop Sancroft. He also brought out, jointly with the late Bishop Mant, an annotated edition of the Bible in three vols, quarto. He died in 1846, The Eev. Charles B. Dalton, a son of the late Eev. William Dalton, Vicar of Kelvedon, Essex, was a scholar of Wadham College, Oxford, where he graduated in honours in 1833. He was successively Eeader at Lincoln's Inn and Chaplain to Bishop Blomfield of London, whose daughter he married. He held the rectory of Lambeth from 1846 down to 1854, when he became Vicar of Highgate, which he resigned in 1878. Lambeth Church, dedicated to St. Mary, is mentioned in the Doomsday Book, but of that edifice there are no remains. In 1374, as appears from Wykeham's Eegister at Winchester, a commission was issued to proceed against " such of the parishioners as refused to contribute towards the rebuilding and repairs of the church ; " and in 1377 there was another commission " to compel the inhabitants to erect a tower for their church, then newly rebuilt, and furnish it with bells." * The tower is yet standing, a proof of substantial construction ; but the remainder of the fabric, as it now stands, dates only from 1851. The church, with the exception of the tower, was first rebuilt within one hundred and fifty years of its original foundation, and principally by subscription. Archbishop Warham was a chief contributor to the building of the west end in 1519, and the Leigh and Howard Chapels were erected in 1522. In 1769 an extensive reparation took place, and those chapels were incorporated with the open parts of the church. Further repairs and ornamental work were executed in 1844. This edifice was restored in 1851 according to the plans and under the direction of Mr. Philip Hardwick. Care was taken that the outline of the original foundations should be preserved, and when possible the ancient stairs reproduced. It now consists of a nave, north and south aisles, chancel, * Register, Wm. de Wykeham, part hi. fol. 113, b, and fol. 162, c. ?0 HISTORY OF SURREY chapels, and porch, the fine western tower remaining untouched. The arcades in the nave have been carefully restored, and the walling above them has been carried up to the original height and pierced with clerestory lights, the whole being surmounted by an open timber roof divided into seven bays by arched trusses resting on the ancient corbels. The chancel is divided from the nave, and the HoAvard and Leigh Chapels from the chancel, by three lofty arches. The large east window, of five lights, filled with foliated tracery, is furnished with stained glass. The west end of the church is lighted by a large circular window filled with geometrical tracery, and the organ is placed immediately beneath it. The embattled tower, which stands at the western extremity of the south aisle, and forms a conspicuous object from the river, is of stone. It is 87 feet in height, and consists of four stories, the third story containing a clock, and the uppermost a peal of eight bells.* At the south-west corner was originally a beacon, as shoAvn in Hollar's view of Lambeth Palace, engraved about 1647. At the south-east angle is an octagonal turret rising from the ground, and enclosing a spiral staircase leading to the roof. The nave is divided from the aisles by four pointed arches supported by octagonal columns. On the south side of the chancel, in the middle compartment of a window of three lights, was formerly the figure in stained glass of a pedlar and his dog, traditionally said to be that of a person who gave the ground called Pedlar's Acre, near Westminster Bridge, to the parish, for leave to bury his dog in the churchyard."]" Aubrey makes no mention * It appears from the churchwarden's accounts that " the olde great bell that was broken in 1598 did contain in weighte xiiii cwt. one quarter, and xxii lbs." The bells were recast in 1723 : an inscription on the third bell says, " There is cast in this bell 24 King William's half crowns." On the sixth is, " There is cast in this bell six King William's crowns." In the lower story of the tower, which opens to the south aisle, is a very handsome pointed-arched window of several divisions. + The progressive and vast increase in the value of land in the vicinity of London during the last three hundred years is strikingly shown by the circumstances recorded of Pedlar's Acre ; yet in what manner that piece of ground came into the possession of the parish — unless as a pedlar's gift, as traditionally specified — is wholly unknown. It is closely adjacent to the east end of Westminster Bridge, and gave name to the first street on the south side of the bridge road leading to Narrow Wall. According to an old admeasurement it contained 1 acre 17 poles, having an extensive frontage on the river Thames. In 1504 it was called the Church Hoppys, or Hope, and, as appears from the church wardens' accounts for that year, was then an ozier bed. In 1623 it was known as the Church Oziers, and either by that name or as the Church Hope it was distinguished, as Mr. Nichols informs us in his history 'of this parish, " till 1690, when in a lease of it, dated August 6, it is for the first time called Pedlar's Acre." In 1504 and 1505 the annual rent of this estate was 2s. 8d. ; in 1506, 4s. ; in 1520, 6s. ; in 1556, 6s. 8d. ; in 1564, 13s. 4d. ; in 1581, £1 6s. 8d. ; and in 1651, £4, at which sum, or with little increase, except as to small or fresh leases, it continued until the commencement of the last century, but was afterwards greatly raised. The draining of Lambeth Marsh, the erection of the bridges of AVestrninster and Blackfriars, and the formation of new roads in consequence, much augmented the value of this property, which in 1752 was held on a long lease at the yearly rent of ,£100 and a fine of £800. In 1813 nearly the whole of the Pedlar's Acre, then much built upon, was divided into three distinct parcels, or lots, and set up for auction, when leases were granted of each lot for the term of twenty-one years at the respective premiums of £2,300, and £12 per annum ; of £2,000, and £46 per annum ; and of £1,700, and £20 per annum. In 1824 some attempts were made to sell or mortgage this estate, with a view of applying the proceeds to the erection of a chapel, &c, which did not meet the general concurrence of the parishioners. This led to an apphcation to Parhament in 1826, when an Act (7 George TV. cap. 46) was passed for vesting the Pedlar's Acre in trustees in fee-simple, viz. in the rector LAMBETH. 7' of the tradition, which has possibly been invented since his time, but speaks of there being " the Portraitures of a Pedlar (and his Dog), who was a considerable benefactor to this parish, whom he has obliged to keep in repair this picture from time to time." * The parish, however, did not acknowledge such obligation, though the following entries in the churchwardens' books would seem to have reference to some undertaking of that kind : — £ s. d. 1607. Paid to the glazier for a pannell of glass for the window where the Picture of the Pedlar stands 0 2 0 1703, March 6. Paid Mr. Price for a new glass Pedlar 2 0 0 The sepulchral memorials, as might be expected in so extensive and populous a parish, are very numerous, both in the church itself and its attached yard, as well as in the capacious burial-ground in the High Street. Many of the more ancient inscriptions recorded by Aubrey have long been taken aAvay or destroyed. We can here only briefly notice those of the most interest, referring, for further particulars, to the accounts of Aubrey, Nichols, Bray, and Allen. The monuments were, of course, shifted from the posi tions which they originally occupied when the rebuilding, of the church took place in 1851. Opposite to each other, near the east end of the chancel, are two old tombs with recessed obtuse arches above, within which are indents of small brass figures, which have been torn off. That on the north side was erected in memory of Hugh Peyntwin, LL.D., Auditor to Cardinal Morton and the Archbishops Deane and Warham, who died in 1504. The other commemorates John Mompesson, of Bathampton Wyley, in Wilts, Esq., chief of the domestics of Archbishop Warham, Avho died in 1525. f On a brass plate (long removed) beneath the communion-table was the following epitaph for Cuthbert Tonstal, Bishop of Durham, written by the celebrated scholar and critic, Walter Haddon, and printed by Aubrey : — Anglia Cdthbertum Tunstalluji mcesta requirit, Cujus summa domi laus erat atque foris. Rhetor, arithmeticus, jurisconsultus, et requi Legatusque fuit ; denique prsesul erat ; Annorum satur, et magnoruni plenus honorum, Vertitur in cineres aureus iste senex. Visit annos 85 : Obiit 18 Novemb. 1559.J and churchwardens for the time being, and ten other rated inhabitants of the parish. Particular enactments for letting the estate, either on the general leases for twenty-one years or on building leases for one hundred years, are contained in the Act ; but the trustees are in no case to proceed in the execution of their trust except under the direction of the vestry of Lambeth. The proceeds of the estate must also be applied, under the orders of vestry, to parochial purposes. * Aubrey, " Surrey," vol. v. p. 229. + The arms of Peyntwin are — Sab. three thistles, leaved and slipped, proper; those of Mompesson — Arg. a lion ramp. sab. impaling erm. a lion pass, guardant gu. for Drewe. X Cuthbert Tonstal, or Tunstall, descended from an illustrious family, was a man of talent and learning. He was raised to the bishopric of London in 1522, and in 1530 translated to that of Durham. Though hke Lee Gardiner y2 HISTORY OF SURREY. In the chancel also was interred another Catholic confessor, the fellow-prisoner of Tonstal. This was Thomas Thirlebye, or Thirlby, made Bishop of Westminster on the foundation of that see by Henry VIII. ; he was afterwards Bishop of Norwich, and, as the inscription on his tomb purported, subsequently translated to Ely. Eefusing to concur in the ecclesiastical arrangements Avhich took place under Queen Elizabeth, he was deprived, imprisoned in the Tower, and subsequently at Lambeth, where he died in 1570* Within the communion-rails is a large slab of blue marble inscribed in memory of Archbishop Bancroft, who died in 1610. Another slab in the middle of the chancel covers the remains of Archbishop Tenison, who died in 1715 ; also of Anne, his wife. A handsome monument of white and veined marble, of a pyramidal form, surmounted by an urn and shield of arms, commemorates Archbishop Hutton and his wife Maria : he died in 1758, and the latter in 1779. Near the east window is a memorial for Archbishop Cornwallis, who died in 1783. Above the latter is a tablet, with this inscription : — In memorie of Anthony Burleigh, third son of John Burleigh, late of the Isle of Wight, Esq., who was Lieut.-Gen. to K. Charles I. of blessed memorie ; and was put to death at Winchester, the 26th of January, 1647, for endeavouring to release his sacred Majesty, then prisoner in Carisbroke Castle. His two elder brothers were slaine at Worcester-fight, in the forces of his present Majesty K. Charles II. this being the last of that loyal family, except his truly loving and sorrowful sister, who caused this monument to be erected. Obiit 17" die Feb. anno Dni 1681, Eetatis suaa 48. Spe resurgendi. Near Mompesson's tomb is a marble pedestal, surmounted by a bust of white marble, finely executed by Chantrey, of the late Thomas Lett, Esq., of this parish, and St. Peter's, in the Isle of Thanet. He was an active magistrate, and High Sheriff of Surrey in 1817. He died in 1830. On the opposite side of the chancel is the mural monument, in black and white marble, of Eobert Scott, Esq., of which the central part exhibits a well-executed bust, within a circular recess, surrounded by sculptures of artillery, military weapons, &c, in flat relief. Bonner, and some other prelates, he repudiated the political authority of the Pope in the reign of Henry VIII., yet he steadfastly opposed the alterations in the constitution of the Church of England which took place during the minority of Edward VI. He was consequently deprived of his episcopal dignity, and threatened with still harsher treatment by the more zealous Protestants ; but Cranmer, highly to his credit, on this occasion opposed the proceedings of the Bishop's enemies. On the accession of Queen Mary he was restored to his see, but after Elizabeth ascended the throne he was a second time deprived, and during the short remainder of his hfe he resided, as a kind of prisoner at large, in the family of Archbishop Parker at Lambeth. * It appeared, from a discovery made on opening a grave for the interment of Archbishop Cornwallis in 1782, that the body of the ex-Bishop Thirlby must have been embalmed, or at least subjected to some antiseptic process, which had preserved it from decomposition for more than two hundred years. A leaden coffin was found in which the body of the deceased had been placed after being wrapped in lead. It was covered with fine linen, still moist with some liquid which emitted the odour of hartshorn. The flesh had the appearance of mummy ; the face was perfect, and the limbs flexible ; the beard was very long and beautifully white. The cap, which was of silk, probably black, had lost its colour. A slouched hat with strings was under the left arm. There was also a cassock, so fastened as to appear hke an apron with strings. The remains of Archbishop Cornwallis having been deposited in an adjoining grave, the spot has been covered with an arch of brickwork. (Nichols's " Appendix to History of the Parish of Lambeth," No. xxii.) LAMBETH 73 The pediment is surmounted by a shield of arms and crest, and at the base is this inscription : — Nere to this place lyeth interred the body of Robert Scott, Esq., descended of the ancient Barrons of Bawerie in Scotland. He bent himselfe to travell and studie much; and amongst many other thinges he invented the leather ordnance, and carried to the King of Sweden 200 men, who after two yeares service, for his worth and valour, was p'ferred to the office of quarter-master-generall of his Majesty's army, which he possessed for three yeares ; from thence with his favour he went into Denmarke (where he was advanced to be general of that King's aTtillerie) there being advised to tender his service to his own prince, which he doinge, his Majestie wilhnghe accepted, and p'fered him to be one of the gent, of the most honourable privie chamber, and rewarded him with a pencion of £600 per annum. This deservinge spirit, adorned with all endowments befitting a gentleman, in the prime of his flourishinge age surrendered his soule to his Redeemer, 1631. Of his great worth to knowe who seeketh more, Must mount to Heaven, where he is gone before. Arms : — Or, three lions' heads, erased gu. ; imp. vert, a greyhound springant, arg. On a grave-slab near that of Tenison is a brass representing the figure in plate armour, with a skirt of mail, but without helmet, of Thomas Clere, Esq.,. son of Eobert Clere, Knt., of the county of Norfolk, who died in 1545. This was originally upon a tomb (long destroyed), over which hung a written tablet, with the subjoined lines (preserved by Aubrey), composed by the celebrated Earl of Surrey : — Norfulke sprung Thee, Lambeth holds Thee dead, Clere, of the Count' of Cleremont thou hight : Within the Wombe of Ormond's Race thou bred And sawest thy Cosin crowned in thy sight. Shelton for Love, Surrey for Lord thou chase ; Aye me, while Life did last, that League was tender, Tracing whose Steps thou sawest Kelsall blase, Launclersey burn't, and batter'd Bulleyn's render. At Muttrell gates, hopeless of all recure, Thine Earle, half dead, gave in thy Hand his AVill ; AVhich Cause did Thee this pining Death procure Ere Summers -four times seven thou couldst fullfilL Aye Clere, if Love had booted Care or Cost, Heaven had not wonne, nor Earth so timely lost. Arms, also in brass: — Quarterly, 1st and 4th, on a fess three eaglets displayed, impahng 2nd and 3rd, a cross moline ; a crescent for difference. There was another curious brass on a grave-slab in what Avas formerly called the Howard Chapel, erected in 1522 by Thomas Howard, second Duke of Norfolk, Earl Marshal and High Treasurer of England, buried here in May, 1524, and whose ancestors had an ancient mansion at a short distance from the church. It represented the Lady Katherine Howard arrayed in a square head-dress and mantle of estate, whereon were the arms and quarterings of the Howards, impaling those of Broughton (of Essex), this lady being a daughter of John Broughton, Esq., and wife of Lord William Howard (eldest son of the above duke by his second wife), afterwards Baron of Effingham, and Lord High Admiral of England. She died in 1535. Both Lord William and his second wife, Lady VOL. III. L 74 HISTORY OF SURREY. Margaret Howard, were sentenced by Henry VIII. to perpetual imprisonment for con cealing the misdeeds of Queen Catherine Howard, his lordship's niece ; but they were afterwards pardoned. Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Edward Stafford, and second wife of Thomas, third Duke of Norfolk, from whom, however, she was long separated, Avas likewise interred here in 1558. In a poetical inscription written by her brother Henry, Lord Stafford, she Avas styled the "good Dutchesse," and highly praised for her sisterly affection and virtue.* Several other members of the Howard family were interred here ; also Mrs. Margaret Parker, wife of the Archbishop, who had purchased Norfolk House carly in Elizabeth's reign. She died in 1570. In the Leigh Chapel, originally erected in 1522 by Sir John Leigh, K.B., son of Ealph Leigh, Esq., lord of the manors of Stockwell and Levehurst in Stockwell, that gentleman, who died in 1523, was himself buried, together with his wife Isabel ; but his tomb, on which were inlaid brasses of himself and lady, was long ago destroyed. In the pavement, at the entrance to the robing-room, is a large slab in memory of Elias Ashmole, the well-known herald and antiquary. The inscription, now almost obliterated, was as follows : — Hie jacet inclytus ille & eruditissimus Elias Ashmole, Lichfeldiensis, Armiger. Inter aha in republica mimera, tribnti in cerevisias contrarotulator, feciahs autem Windsoriensis titulo per annos plurimos dignatus : qui post connubia, in uxorem duxit tertiam, Elizabetham, Gulielmi Dugdale, Militis Garteri, principalis regis armorum, Filiam. Mortem obiit 18 Maii, 1692, anno setatis 76 ; sed durante Museeo Ashmoliano Oxon. nunquam moriturus. In the south aisle is a small mural monument of freestone, exhibiting incised kneeling figures before an altar, on which are two open books, of Agnes Tydnam, her two husbands, Thomas Marshall and John Mannynge, and three sons and three daughters : she died in 1583. Against the west wall is a neat marble tablet in memory of Signora Storace, whose vocal abilities had long been the delight of the frequenters of the drama. She died at Heme Hill, in this parish, after a few years' retirement from the stage, in 1817. Against the north wall is a tablet of white marble enchased in black, commemorative of Peter Dollond, Esq., an eminent optician, eldest son of John Dollond, F.E.S., the inventor of the achromatic telescope. He died in 1820. Against the walls of the under part of the tower are affixed six large tables of benefac tions made for various purposes to the poor inhabitants of this parish. Of the numerous sepulchral memorials in the churchyard, that exciting the most interest is the tomb of the Tradescants, of South Lambeth, erected by Hester, the widow * A curious biographical memoir of this lady appeared in the Gentleman's Magazine for March, 1845, pp. 259 — 267. LAMBETH. 75 of John Tradescant the younger, after his interment here in 1662. This tomb having become very much dilapidated, and the inscription almost illegible, was repaired in 1773 ; and this, having in turn fallen into decay, was again entirely restored by subscription in 1853. On the covering slab the subjoined verses are incised : — Know, Stranger, ere thou pass, — beneath this stone, Lye John Tradescant, grandsire, father, son; The last dy'd in his spring ; the other two Liv'd till they had travell'd Art & Nature through, As by their choice collections may appear, Of what is rare, in land, in sea, in air ; Whilst they, (as Homer's Iliad in a nut), A world of wonders in one closet shut. These famous Antiquarians that had been Both Gardeners to the Rose & Lily Queen, Transplanted now themselves, sleep here ; and when Angels shall with their trumpets waken men, And fire shall purge the world, these hence shall rise, And change this Garden for a Paradise.* The sculptures around the tomb, of Avhich engravings were given in the Philosophical Transactions, vol. lxiii., from drawings in the Pepysian collection, have been restored in accordance with the original design. * The Tradescants were distinguished as naturalists, and their collection contributed to the foundation of that curious assemblage of natural and artificial curiosities which became the basis of the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford. The elder Tradescant, who by birth was either a Dutchman or a Fleming, after having travelled through various parts of Europe and. visited Egypt and other Eastern regions in pursuit of scientific information, at length settled in England, and obtained the office of Gardener to Charles I., by whom, and by his queen and court, he was much patronised. There is a tradition that his zeal for the improvement of horticulture induced him to embark on board a privateer fitted out to cruise against the Algerine Corsairs, in order that he might have an opportunity for procuring a new variety of apricot from North Africa. Parkinson, in his " Garden of Pleasant Flowers," printed in 1656, mentions " the Argier, or Algier apricot," as having been brought to England by John Tradescant on his return from a voyage in a fleet sent against pirates in 1620. Various other fruits and flowers were introduced into this country by the same enterprising naturalist. Mr. Tradescant resided in a large house at South Lambeth, where he kept his collection of curiosities, and where he died at an advanced age, either in 1652 or 1653. After the decease of his son and of the widow of the latter, that dwelling came into the possession of Elias Ashmole, the proprietor of the Tradescant Museum: "he added a noble room to it, and adorned the chimney with his arms, impaling those of Sir Wilham Dugdale, whose daughter was his third wife." John Tradescant the younger seems to have inherited the taste, if not the enterprising talents of his father. Whether he made any considerable additions to his stock of curiosities is uncertain, but there can be no doubt but that he paid due attention to their preservation and arrangement. This house, apparently from the abundance and heterogeneous character of its contents, was called " Tradescant's Ark." In 1656 he published an account of his treasures under the title of " Museum Tradescantianum : or a Collection of Rarities preserved at S. Lambeth, near London, by John Trades cant," 12mo. By his wife Hester he had an only son, who died in 1652. After this, having no surviving offspring, and becoming anxious to provide for the preservation of the museum on which so much time, labour, and skill had been expended, he determined to transfer it, after his decease, to his friend and next neighbour, Ashmole, whose similarity of taste he might have regarded as a security for the protection of his treasures from dispersion. The antiquary has _ recorded the donation in his " Diary," under the date December 12, 1659. He says, " Mr. Tradescant and his wife told me that they had been long considering upon whom to bestow their closet of curiosities when they died, and at last resolved to give it unto me." In the same record he subsequently states that the property was secured to him by a deed of gift. The donor died in 1662. Mrs. Tradescant, his widow, was found drowned in a pond in her own garden or orchard in 1677. ?6 HISTORY OF SURREY. The tomb of William Bligh, F.E.S., Vice- Admiral of the Blue, "the celebrated Navigator who first transplanted the Bread-fruit Tree from Otaheite to the West Indies," is of a Grecian character, and crowned by a blazing urn. Admiral Bligh died in 1817. His wife and others of his family lie buried in the same vault. Before the Eeformation there were several altars in this church besides the principal one dedicated to the Virgin Mary, its titular saint, namely, those of St. Thomas, St. George, St. Christopher, and St. Nicholas. A guild, or brotherhood, was attached to the altar of St. Christopher, and in the churchwardens' accounts for 1522 is entered a pay ment of 4s. 8d. for a banner of that saint. The same accounts shoAV that lights were kept burning before the image of each saint; and in July, 1522, the then large sum of £3 6s. 8d. was " received of the dutches of Norfolk for the Vyrgin lyghtt." In the preceding year "my Lady of Norfolke" paid to the churchwardens £1 12s. 3^d. of "Hock money." * Among the boys belonging to the choirs of churches and cathedrals it was an ancient custom to elect one of their number a bishop, and another a dean, on St. Nicholas Day, and lead them in procession in full canonicals. It is not extraordinary, therefore, as there was an altar to St. Nicholas in this church, that the ceremony of choosing a boy -bishop should be observed on his festival, and in the accounts for 1522 and 1523 there are several items relating to the ceremonial. Among the entries of the time of Philip and Mary are the payments of 4d. to the ringers when the Queen's grace came into Lambeth Church ; and of 6d. to the ringers when "tydings came that the Quene was brought a bed." \ The following instances of longevity are entered in the Eegisters of this parish : — November 4, 1704, buried Joana Keys, widow : 104 at her death. Jan. 8, 1738-9, Elizabeth Bateman, aged 102, from Kennington-lane, buried. Jan. 22, 1788, Wilham Cobb, aged 101 years, buried. Jan. 4, 1803, Ehzabeth Ramsey, of Church-street, aged 107, buried. May 2, 1807, Mary Franklin, of Britannia-row, aged 102, buried. * The custom of collecting oke money, or hock money, for charitable purposes by the men and women separately appears to have generally prevailed before the Reformation. The following entries are from the churchwardens' books : — £ s. d. 1515. Received of the men for oke money 0 5 7 of the wyffs for oke money ... 0 15 1 1516. Received of the gaderynge of Churchwardens' weyffes on Hoke Monday 0 8 3 t Holinshed states that this false rumour of the Queen's delivery caused " the bells to be roong, and bonefiies to be made, not onely in the citie of London, but also in sundrie places of the realme."— (Chronicle, anno 1556.) The Queen indeed had been altogether deceived by her own feelings, as she had never been pregnant. LAMBETH. 77 The subjoined are from other authorities : — June 28, 1736, died Mr. Thomas Drayman at Vauxhall, in the 106th year of his age. He had been a Surgeon in the Royal Navy. He wrote a very good hand, and had a quick ear, and good sight to the last. Jan. 20, 1743, Mr. Wills died at Lambeth, aged 102. Apr. 1743, Mr. Horn, formerly an eminent grocer in Southwark, died at Stockwell, aged 102. May 16, 1749, Mrs. Hellings, widow, died at Lambeth, aged 103 years. June, 1777, Mrs. Margaret Baise, widow, died at Stockwell, aged 107. In High Street, formerly called the Back Lane, is a large burial-ground, given to the parish by Archbishop Tenison, and consecrated in 1705. Several of those who have memorials in the church were interred in this ground ; among them Mr. Peter Dollond, the optician, and Alderman Goodbehere. Mr. Thomas Cooke, the translator of Hesiod and Terence ; Edward Moore, author of " Fables for the Female Sex " and the "Gamester;" William Milton, an eminent engraver; Jeanne St. By mer de Valois, Countess de la Motte, who fled to England after her escape from the Conciergerie, where she had been imprisoned for her participation in the mysterious plot of the diamond necklace ; Mr. Eobert Barker, the inventor of the panorama ; and that talented minera logist and naturalist, Mr. James Sowerby, F.L.S., were also interred here.* At the north corner of Calcot Alley resided the far-famed Francis Moore, original author of "Moore's Almanack," the first of which appeared in 1698. He followed the joint occupations of astrologer and schoolmaster, and. possibly also practised as a physician, being so styled on his almanac. Simon Forman, another astrologer, but of far greater celebrity than Moore,, was also an inhabitant of Lambeth, where his burial, as entered in the parish Eegister, took place in 1611. He died suddenly when in a boat on the Thames, on a Thursday, having, according to Lilly, prognosticated the time of his decease when in full health on the previous Sunday.-]" Another of this class, Capt. Bubb, contemporary with Forman, li\red in Lambeth Marsh, and " resolved horary questions astrologically." His science, however, only raised him to the pillory, and he ended his days in disgrace. Norfolk House. — As early as the reign of Edward I. the Earls of Norfolk had a mansion at Lambeth near the church ; but Eoger Bigod, the fifth and last earl of that family, having given offence to the King by refusing to join in one of his continental expeditions in 1297, had his lands seized by the King's officers. Though temporarily restored in 1302 (but with a restriction of tenure as to issue), his lands and honours became vested in the Crown on his decease without issue in 1307. In 1312 the earldom * AU the above persons had resided in this parish. Mr. Cooke died in extreme poverty in 1757 ; Mr. Moore in the same year ; Wm. Milton in 1790 ; the Countess in 1791 ; Mr. Barker in 1806 ; and Mr. Sowerby in 1822. + Lilly, " Life and Times," p. 42, edit. 1822. He also says that Forman wrote in a book left behind him, " This I made the devil write with his own hand in Lambeth Fields, 1569, in June or July, as I now remember." 78 HISTORY OF SURREY. of Norfolk, with its attached estates, was bestowed on Thomas de Brotherton, the eldest son of Edward I. by his second consort, Margaret of France. From that prince the Lambeth property descended, with the Norfolk title, through the Mowbrays to the family of Howard. In the reign of Henry VIII., when the mansion belonged to Thomas Howard, the third Duke of Norfolk, it was the residence of his son, the celebrated Earl of Surrey, then a youth, and under the tuition of John Leland the antiquary, who notices the circum stance in his notes on the " Cygnea Cantio." The Duke, being prosecuted for alleged treason, was convicted and sentenced to death, and the warrant for his execution actually signed ; yet he was preserved from impending destruction by the opportune decease of his ungrateful master, Henry VIII., on the night previous to the day assigned for his decapitation. His life was spared, but he was attainted, and kept in prison during the reign of Edward VI. , who granted his house at Lumbeth, as a part of the Duke's forfeited estates, to the Marquis of Northampton. But on the accession of Queen Mary the attainder of Norfolk was reversed, and his lands and honours were restored. He died in 1554, and in 1 Elizabeth his grandson and successor sold Norfolk House to Eichard Garth and John Dyster for £400, not long after which it Avas conveyed to Mrs. Margaret Parker, alias Harlestone,* the consort of the Archbishop of Canterbury. The mansion itself was freehold, but part of the annexed estate was copyhold of the manor of Lambeth. Mrs. Parker gave the whole to her younger son Matthew, who, dying in 1574, left his wife Frances, daughter of Dr. Barlow, Bishop of Chichester, enceinte of a son, who died when six months old, and the estate devolved on Matthew, son of John Parker, the eldest son of the Archbishop, according to the provisions of the will of his uncle. This gentleman, who obtained the honour of knighthood from James I. in 1603, married Joan, daughter of Dr. Eichard Cox, Bishop of Ely, and retired to Sitting- bourne, in Kent, where his descendants settled. Norfolk House, situated on the south side of Church Street, has been long demolished, and a range of houses called Norfolk Eow, and other buildings in Paradise Eow, together with the distillery of Messrs. Hodges, now occupy the site of the house and grounds. Cuper's Garden. — The Dukes of Norfolk, besides the Norfolk House estate, had a garden in Lambeth on the bank of the Thames, afterwards styled Cuper's Garden. In 1636 it belonged to Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel, the representative of the ducal family (distinguished as the munificent collector of the Arundelian marbles), who held, * This was the maiden name of the lady in question, and it was introduced by way of precaution, because, as Mr. Manning observes, " the legahty of the marriage of priests was then hardly established, and it is well known that Queen Elizabeth did not approve of it, as is testified by her very uncourteous speech to Mrs. Parker after having been entertained by the Archbishop."— Surrey, vol. hi. p. 479. LAMBETH. 79 together with this garden, the Prince's Meadow, adjoining it on the east.* In 1667 Mr. Henry Howard, afterwards Duke of Norfolk, at the suggestion of Mr. Evelyn, gave to the "University of Oxford the most valuable of the inscribed stones and other sculptures in his possession excepting the statuary. The latter remained at Arundel House, in the Strand, until it was destroyed to make way for neAv streets, when a portion of these remnants was given to one Boydell Cuper, who had been the Earl's gardener, and who rented the land called from him Cuper's Garden, and to this place the statues, &c, were removed. Cuper opened his garden as a place of public entertainment, and, to attract company, laid out walks and made arbours, which were decorated with the works of art in question; but in 1717 they were sold by his son, John Cuper, for £75. Those pieces of sculpture reserved by the Duke of Norfolk were sent across the Thames to a tract of ground adjoining Cuper's Garden, for which he had a grant from the duchy of Cornwall. This tract being afterwards occupied as a wharf and timber-yard, the level was raised by overlaying it with large quantities of rubbish procured from the ruins of St. Paul's Cathedral, then rebuilding by Sir Christopher Wren. The consequence was that these remains were buried, and for a time forgotten; but in 1712 Mr. Theobald, Avho then rented the ground, in digging to lay the foundation of buildings, disinterred, some of the fragments of ancient sculpture, a part of which was removed by Lord Burlington to his villa at Chiswick. Some years subsequently Lord Petre employed men to search and open the ground, when six colossal and other statues, wanting the heads and arms, were recovered and transferred to the Duke of Norfolk's seat at Worksop."]- The premises held by Mr. Theobald were occupied by Messrs. Lett as a timber-yard in 1811, when some excavations being made for the construction of a dock, a colossal statue of a female and other fragments of sculpture Avere brought to light. Cuper's, or Cupid's, Garden became notorious for the profligacy of its visitants, and was suppressed in 1753, but the house continued open as a tavern. The ground had been granted by one of the Norfolk family to the master and fellows of Jesus College, Oxford, of whom, during many years in the last and present century, it was leased by the Messrs. Beaufoy at an annual rent of about £1,200, and it formed part of their large establishment for the manufacture of English wines and vinegar, removed to South Lambeth on the erection of Waterloo Bridge. This site is now occupied by the timber wharfs of Belvidere Eoad. * In the possession of the late Mr. Bray was an old plan of part of the " Libertie of Oulde Parris Garden," in which a plot of ground eastward of the King's barge-house is designated " the Earl of Arundel's ;" and nearer to Lambeth the " Earl of Arundel's Walk " is marked by a double row of trees. t From the several engravings of these mutilated fragments inserted by Dr. Rawhnson in the fifth volume oi Aubrey's " Surrey," they would seem to have been executed in a bold and vigorous style. So HISTORY OF SURREY. Carlisle House, anciently La Place. — On the piece of ground mentioned in the preceding account of the manor of Lambeth {vide p. 43) as having been granted by Archbishop Hubert Walter to Gilbert de Glanville, Bishop of Eochester, the latter prelate built a house for his own residence upon the site of an old dilapidated college near the church, dedicated to the martyrs, St. Stephen and St. Thomas a Becket. Haymo de Hethe, promoted to the see of Eochester in March, 1316, rebuilt the house, subsequently called La Place, and thus designated until 1500, after which the bishops dated from their house in Lambeth Marsh. This dwelling was so situated that access to it could scarcely be obtained without trespassing on the archiepiscopal premises, which occasioned frequent disputes between the officers and domestics of the respective prelates. At length, in 1357, Archbishop Simon Islip granted to John Shepey, the successor of Hethe, a license to build a bridge across a creek, or ditch, on the lands of the Archbishop at Stangate, for the convenience of a more ready access from the Thames. The last Bishop of Eochester who resided in this mansion was Dr. John Fisher, in Avhose time a most execrable murder was committed by Eichard Eoose, or Eose, one of the household servants. Stow thus relates this shocking occurrence : — " The 5th of Aprill, 1531, one Eichard Eose, a cooke, was boiled in Smithfield, for poisoning of divers persons, to the number of 16 or more, at the bishop of Eochesters place, amongst the which Benet Curwine, gentleman, was one ; and he intended to have poisoned the Bishoppe himselfe, but hee eate no pottage that daie, whereby hee escaped." * Eoose was attainted of treason and boiled to death by an ex post facto law, which was passed in consequence of his crime, but repealed in the next reign. Nicholas Heath, who became Bishop of Eochester in 1540, conveyed this property to Henry VIII., in exchange for a house in Southwark. Not long after the King regranted it to Eobert Aldrich, Bishop of Carlisle, in exchange for the premises where now stand Beaufort Buildings, in the Strand. The Lambeth mansion hence acquired the appellation of Carlisle House, though neither Aldrich nor any of his successors resided there. This place was sold by order of Parliament in 1647 to Matthew Hardy for £220, but it reverted to the Bishop of Carlisle at the Eestoration. After that time Carlisle House was subjected to many vicissitudes. On a part of the ground a pottery was built, which existed in George II. 's reign; but the concern failed and the materials of the kilns, &c, were used to repair the surrounding walls. It then became a tavern, and was subsequently opened as a dancing school by Monsieur Fromont a celebrated master hi that art, who endeavoured to get it licensed as a place of public * Chronicle, p. 942. LAMBETH. 8- entertainment, but ineffectually, in consequence of the opposition of Archbishop Seeker. It was next tenanted as a private dAvelling, and afterwards converted into a school. In 1827 it was pulled down, and the site and grounds covered with small houses, including Allen and Homer Streets and parts of Carlisle Lane and Hercules Buildings. In Carlisle Street, opposite to the site of the house just described, is the Church of the Holy Trinity, erected from the designs of Edward Blore, and consecrated in 1839. It stands upon a piece of ground that formed an angle of the, kitchen garden of Lambeth Palace, and was presented by the Archbishop of Canterbury. The cost was about £3,000. The building is of Suffolk brick, and it is marked by extreme plainness. Its former galleries were remo\'ed in 1871. The patronage is vested in the Eector of Lambeth. The district assigned to this chapel, by order of her Majesty in Council in 1841, includes a population of 6,000 persons and upwards, all residing within the compass of about half a mile. A vicarage was built in this parish in 1864, and National Schools were erected about ten years previously. The National (formerly Astley' s) Amphitheatre. — This place owes its origin to Mr. Philip Astley, one of the most distinguished exhibitors of feats of horsemanship during the last century. He was a native of Newcastle-under-Lyme, the son of a cabinet maker, by whom he was taught his own business. But being of an enterprising dis position, he left home Avhen a lad, and enlisted in General Eliott's regiment of Light Horse, with which he served in Germany, where he obtained the reputation of a good soldier and a bold and skilful rider. Eeturning to England after the war in 1763, Astley commenced the exhibition of feats of horsemanship, first in an open field in Lambeth (near Glover's "Halfpenny Hatch," a locality now scarcely remembered), and meeting with success (though at this time the possessor of two horses only — the one a charger given him by General Eliott for his intrepidity and good conduct,* aud the other bought in Smithfield), he travelled through various parts of the kingdom, and acquired so much celebrity that he was enabled to found an establishment on a plot of ground near Westminster Bridge, which afterwards became the site of the amphitheatre. This place, then called Astley 's Booth, Avas merely enclosed with boards, provided Avith seats for visitors, and sheltered from the weather by a penthouse roof; but the spirited proprietor in every successive season endeavoured to increase the attractions of his amphitheatre, both by improved arrangements * In the battle of Emsdorff Astley took a royal standard of France, though his horse was shot under him, but beinc remounted, he brought off his prize in despite of an escort of the enemy's infantry, at least ten in number, by whom he was wounded. At Friedberg he personally assisted, under a very heavy fire, in rescuing the Hereditary Prince of Brunswick, when his Highness was wounded within the enemy's hnes. At a subsequent period, during the revolutionary war with France, he was mainly instrumental in saving the Duke of York from being taken prisoner in Holland. vol. in. u: g2 HISTORY OF SURREY. for the accommodation of visitors and by adding feats of agility to the equestrian perform ances, and in 1773 he erected a covered structure, which Avas opened in the beginning of the ensuing year, and Avas known as the Amphitheatre Eiding-House. Assisted by his son and other performers, in 1780 he commenced a winter season with feats of horsemanship, mixed with other novel and attractive exhibitions. He subse quently had to encounter the rivalry of Hughes, the founder of the Eoyal Circus, who, in conjunction with Charles Dibdin, the song writer and vocalist, proposed to combine equestrian exhibitions Avith dramatic or melodramatic entertainments. Astley then, in the beginning of 1784, built a stage, and having re-decorated his amphitheatre in a new style, opened it as the Eoyal Gro\~e. After an active management of tAventy years, Mr. Astley, in 1792, resigned the Eoyal Saloon, as it was then termed, to his son, and the undertaking was prosperously con ducted under his direction until 1794, Avhen the building was destroyed by fire. Unde pressed by this calamity, the elder Astley, then on the continent serving as a volunteer in the army of the Duke of York, obtained leave of absence and returned to England, Avhere he exerted himself so effectually that a new building on the same site as the former, and called the Amphitheatre of Arts, was opened to the public on Easter Monday, 1795. Another fire took place in 1803, destroying property to the amount of £30,000 ; but the most lamentable circumstance was the loss of Mrs. Smith, the mother-in-law of Astley the younger, who was burned to death in the dwelling-house, in consequence (as supposed) of returning for a sum of money deposited in the bedroom. When this happened the elder Astley was at Paris, and on the eve of being kept as a detenu under Bonaparte's Milan decree ; but he escaped by stratagem, and again by his vigorous exertions caused the amphitheatre to be rebuilt, and opened on Easter Monday, 1804. Several members of the company were afterwards admitted to a share in the concern Avith young Astley, and under their united management equestrian spectacles were first introduced on the stage, and they have ever since continued to form a part of the regular entertainments. In 1806 Mr. Astley, sen., erected the Olympic Pavilion, in Wych Street, Drury Lane, that being the last of nineteen places of entertainment which he had built in the course of his eventful career. He died at Paris in 1814; and his son and successor died in the same house, chamber, and bed in which his father had expired, in 1821 : they were both interred in the cemetery called Pere-la-Chaise, in the above city.* * Vide Brayley's " Theatres of London," pp. 58 — 64, a book which contains some singular particulars of the career of the elder Astley. His ground landlord (a timber merchant), of whom he first rented the site of the amphitheatre, had a preserve or breed of pheasants near the spot. LAMBETH. 83 During the next three years the spectacles were conducted by Mr. W. Davis, who had been joint lessee with young Astley, and the place was known as Davis's Amphitheatre. His interest expired in 1824, and shortly after a new lease Avas taken by the celebrated equestrian, AndreAV Ducrow, who was born at the Nag's Head, in the Borough, in 1793, at which time his father, Peter Ducrow, a native of Bruges, Avas a performer in Astley's company, and called the "Flemish Hercules," from his activity and feats of strength. Subsequently Mr. West became a partner with Ducrow, and their conjoined efforts were accompanied by complete success until 1841, when the building was again destroyed by a fire, caused by the falling of some ignited wadding below the stage during the discharge of cannon in a piece called the Wars of Cromwell. On this occasion a female servant perished in a similar manner to young Astley's mother-in-law — from returning to rescue some property in her bedchamber. Except three horses, the whole of the stud was saved, but all else was destroyed. This catastrophe had a fatal effect on the already declining health of Ducrow, who became mentally deranged, and died of paralysis in 1842. He was buried in the cemetery at Kensal Green. His funeral was a public one, and conducted with much equestrian solemnity. In 1841 the vacant site, with other ground, was taken on a long lease by Mr. William Batty, who in the folloAving year erected a new amphitheatre, much larger, more substantially built, and more unique in its appointments than any of the preceding ones. The general designs for its arrangement were suggested by Mr. Usher, who for many years had been clown to the horsemanship. Messrs. Haward and Nixon were the chief builders, by whom the exterior walls (previously raised) were additionally strengthened, and the internal work executed. At the same time opportunity was taken to connect the Bridge Eoad with the Palace New Eoad, by opening a new street adjoining to the eastern side of the amphitheatre. The interior, which is of the general horseshoe form and very lofty, exhibits much elegance in its decorations. There is one full tier of boxes, in nine large divisions, fronting the proscenium (three of Avhich are private), and two half-tiers extending along the sides, and ranging evenly with the gallery slips. The central box, Avhich has the regal arms in front, remains as it was fitted up for the reception of her Majesty Queen Victoria, who, with her royal consort Prince Albert, the young Prince of Wales, and the Princess Eoyal, witnessed a special display of horsemanship here on the 24th of March, 1846. Though the present theatre was constructed with both a stage and a circle for horse manship, the latter has been discontinued since 1863, when the theatre was remodelled by Mr. Dion Boucicault. In 1873 the theatre was taken by Mr. Sanger, and the title of m 2 g+ HISTORY OF SURREY. " Astley's " has disappeared from the bills. We have in its place " Sanger's Grand National Amphitheatre." Westminster Bridge. — Except old London Bridge, no other connected the metropolis Avith the Surrey side of the Thames until that of Westminster was built, between 1738 and 1750. When the scheme of building a bridge at this spot had been approved, five different sites Avere proposed for its erection. It was at length determined that it should commence from the ancient wool-staple adjacent to NeAv Palace Yard, and in a line with the Avest side of St. James's Park. Several Acts of Parliament were passed to regulate the proceedings, and provide funds for the erection and support of the intended fabric, Avhich was begun in 1738, from the designs and under the superintendence of M. Chas. Labelye, a Swiss architect and civil engineer, patronised, and probably brought to England, by Henry Herbert, Earl of Pembroke, the chief of the parliamentary commissioners in whom the general management had been vested. The first stone was laid in 1739, and the bridge was opened without much ceremony, by torchlight, between tAvelve and one o'clock on the morning of Sunday, November 17th, 1750. The work would have been finished much earlier but for the sinking of one of the piers in 1747, the partial rebuilding of which, with its adjoining arches, caused a great delay. This arose from the plan adopted by the architect of building the piers in caissons, or Avooden cases, instead of piling the entire foundations. This bridge was 1,223 feet in length, and 44 feet in breadth between the balustrades. It consisted of thirteen principal and two smaller arches, all semicircular, which sprang from the piers at about two feet above the old low- water mark. The central arch was 76 feet wide, but the principal lateral arches decreased in width by intervals of four feet each. Each of the smaller arches, which connected the outermost piers with the abutments, was 25 feet wide. The entire water-way was about 870 feet. At each end of the bridge were double flights of steps of moorstone leading to the river. The roadway across the bridge was considerably loAvered in 1843 and 1844, by which means from 20,000 to 30,000 tons of the weight on the arches were taken off, but the breadth of carriage-way, in consequence of that removal, was reduced several feet. Maitland, in his " History of London," says that the expense of constructing this bridge was £389,500, being the gross amount of the profits of three lotteries, and of various sums granted from the Exchequer by Parliament. Labelye, the architect, stated that the net expenditure was £218,000. A select committee of the House of Commons was appointed in 1848 "to consider the present state of Westminster Bridge," &c, and report their opinion to the House. The LAMBETH. 85 opinion of the committee, founded on the evidence of our most intelligent engineers, and embodied in seven resolutions, was in substance as follows, viz. : — That the foundations having been originally vicious, the bridge can never be perma nently sound; and that the expenditure of £70,000, as contemplated, for alterations and repairs, would still leave the bridge in an insecure state, and render the water-way far less adequate to the requirements of the navigation than at present. That, irrespectively of the approaches, the expense of a new stone bridge, retaining the old one for temporary use, Avould not exceed £360,000, towards which the bridge estates Avould probably afford a clear surplus of £100,000. That Parliament, in addition to the money raised by lotteries, having by direct grants from the Exchequer "furnished a large part of the expense of erecting originally the present Bridge," and having declared it to be extra-parochial and not a county bridge (9 Geo. II. c. 29, sec. 20 & 21), maintainable as such bridges are by county rates, " has recognised and sanctioned the principle that this Bridge shall be main tained, and when needful, repaired, restored, and rebuilt, at the expense of the State." That, under these circumstances, the committee recommend that a new bridge be con structed, and "that a Bill be brought into Parliament next Session to transfer to the Commissioners of Her Majesty's Woods, &c, the Estates and Property of the Bridge Commissioners ; due consideration being had to the claims of the Officers of the Bridge Estates, if their services should be discontinued." * The new bridge at Westminster, which occupies the place of the old one, but which is almost double the width, is a very handsome structure, built chiefly of iron. It was commenced in 1855 by Mr. Page, and completed in 1862, the latter part of the work having been carried out under the directions of the late Sir Charles Barry, the well-known architect. The present bridge is 1,160 feet long, by 85 feet wide. It consists of seven arches (the centre one having a span of 120 feet) resting on granite piers, the parapet and ornamental portions having been designed to accord with the adjacent Houses of Parlia ment. The roadway is 53 feet wide, and the footways 15 feet: the former is divided into going and coming roads, and has tramways or grooves for the wheels of the heavy vehicles. The cost of construction of the present bridge was £206,000. St. Thomas's Hospital. — At the foot of Westminster Bridge, and extending along the banks of the river towards Lambeth Palace, is the new St. Thomas's Hospital, removed hither from Southwark in 1870-71. The ground on which the hospital stands, between 8 and 9 acres in extent, was purchased from the Board of Works at a cost of about * Vide Third Report of the Select Committee of the House oi Commons on AVestrninster Bridge and the New Palace. 86 HISTORY OF SURREY. £100,000. Nearly half of the site Avas reclaimed from the mud of the river. The buildings have a frontage of about 1,700 feet in length, and are about 250 feet in depth. The Hospital consists of eight distinct buildings, or pavilions. Six in the centre are for patients ; that at the north end is for the officers of the Hospital, board-room, &c. ; that at the south for a museum, lecture-room, and school of medicine. The style of the buildings may be called Palladian, with rich facings of coloured bricks and Portland stone. The entrance hall, facing the new Lambeth Palace Eoad, is a large and spacious apartment. In it is a statue of the Queen, by whom the foundation stone of the Hospital was laid in 1868,. and the building opened in 1871. The statue, executed by Mr. Noble, is sculptured out of a block of pure white Carrara marble, and weighs 5 tons. The Queen is represented seated on a state chair, in her full robes of state, holding the sceptre in her right hand and the orb in her left. The likeness of her Majesty is considered excellent. The pedestal upon which the statue stands is of Sicilian marble, beautifully moulded and carved, with panels in the centre on each side. Within the panel immediately under the statue is the following inscription : — " Her Majesty Queen Victoria. The gift of Sir John Musgrove, Bart., President, 1873." There is a chapel which affords sittings for more than 300 persons ; there are large and spacious surgeries and dispensers' offices, with ample house accommodation for chaplains, resident surgeons, dressers, &c. Altogether the Hospital can make up 650 beds for patients, and contains from first to last, in all its wards, houses, out-offices, kitchens, sculleries, &c, nearly 1,000 distinct compartments. The plan of the whole is considered perfect. It is calculated that at least half a million has been expended upon this splendid structure. The space between the grounds of St. Thomas's Hospital and the river, extending from Westminster to Lambeth Bridges, a distance of 2,200 feet, is filled in by a solid embankment, which, commenced in 1866, was opened for pedestrians in the space of about two years. The work, called the Albert Embankment, is continued beyond Lambeth Bridge as far as the site of the London Gas Works, 2,100 feet higher up the river : it was carried out by the Metropolitan Board of Works under the direction of Sir Joseph Bazal- gette, and forms part of his design of embanking the Thames in its course through London. Attempts at gardening have been made here in the vicinity of Lambeth Palace, but the experiment has not been attended with much success. Trees, too, have been planted, but these had afterwards to be removed, the exhalation from the adjacent potteries having, it is supposed, destroyed their vitality. Close by the principal gateway of Lambeth Palace, and uniting the Albert Embank- LAMBETH. 87 ment with Millbank, is Lambeth Bridge, which has superseded the old "horse ferry" which for many years was the means of communication at this point. The bridge is con structed of iron, on the suspension principle, and was built in 1862 : it has three spans of 280 feet. Asylum for Female Orphans. — Shortly after the completion of old Westminster Bridge and the formation of the roads leading to it on the Surrey side, an inn was built, with extensive stabling and a spacious garden attached, upon an angle of Lambeth Marsh, since called Mead Place. The ground (described as a close late in the tenure of John Billington) belonged to the City of London under a grant from Edward VI. in 1551, it having formed part of the possessions of Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk.* After a little time the speculation failed, and the premises, distinguished by the sign of the Hercules, were offered for sale. About this juncture Sir John Fielding (younger brother of the celebrated novelist), who for several years was the chief police magistrate of the metropolis, was endeavouring to found an institution for the maintenance and education of female orphans. His views were aided by a committee of noblemen and gentlemen, and a fund was raised sufficient both to buy the lease and fit up the premises, which were opened for the reception of children in 1758. The beneficial effects of this institution were soon apparent, and it progressively received so much support and patronage that the subscribers considered it expedient to obtain a charter of incorporation. Accordingly in 1800 they were constituted a body politic under the style of "The President, Vice-Presidents, Treasurer, and Guardians of the Asylum for Orphan Girls, the settlements of whose parents cannot be found." The original lease expiring about 1823, an application was made for a renewal; but, on the Corporation of London requiring an annual rent of £800, it was deemed best to purchase the freehold, which was done at the cost of nearly £16,000. In 1826 the Asylum was rebuilt from the designs of Mr. Lloyd. The principal front consisted of a low uniform body and wings (the latter projecting at right angles) of two stories, with a portico of the Ionic order rising to the roof, surmounted by a small clock tower. The building was pulled down a few years ago, and the institution removed to Beddington — the old Elizabethan mansion of the Carews— near Croydon. The site was soon afterwards covered by Christ Church, a large non-denominational Nonconformist chapel, erected to perpetuate the work inaugurated by Eowland Hill at Surrey Chapel, in the Blackfriars Eoad. The * Upon part of the ground twenty-five houses, forming a portion of Hercules Buildings, were also built. At a subsequent time the elder Astley erected, behind the buildings, Hercules Hall for his own residence. This dwelling continued for many years in the possession of his family, but was pulled down in 1841. 88 HISTORY OF SURREY. structure, a fine specimen of Gothic architecture, with a lofty tower and spire, was completed in 1876. Adjoining Christ Church, and in an architectural sense forming part of it, is another building, devoted to religious and philanthropic purposes, called Hawkstone Hall, after the seat of Lord Hill, the head of Eowland Hill's family, in Shropshire. St. Thomas's Church, in Westminster Bridge Eoad, was consecrated in 1857. The edifice is built of brick, from the design of Mr. S. S. Teulon. It is of Gothic architecture, and comprises a long and broad nave and chancel, Avith side aisles of two bays towards the east, for galleries. As originally designed, the building was to have exhibited a modifica tion of the Dominican church at Ghent, but the estimates having been cut clown, tho present appearance of the edifice was the result. In the narrow winding thoroughfare called Lambeth Upper Marsh, on the left side between the Westminster Bridge Eoad and Stangate Street, stands the Canterbury Hall, the first music-hall established in the metropolis, which was opened by Mr. Charles Morton in 1849. Close by the Canterbury Hall, near the corner of Stangate Street, is the Bower Saloon, a minor place of amusement, having a theatre and music-room attached. The Manor of Faukes-hall or Vaux-hall. — This manor belonged, in the reign of King John, to Baldwin de Eipariis, or Eedvers (called also De Insula, from his possession of the Isle of Wight), son and heir of William, sixth Earl of Devon, who, dying before his father, left by his wife Margaret, daughter and heiress of Warine Fitz-gerald, a son named also Baldwin. Margaret, on whom this manor had been settled as part of her dower, was re-married to Fulke de Breant through the favour of the King, under whom he acted as one of the most active and unscrupulous instruments of oppression. In the reign of Henry III. he was deprived of his estates and banished the kingdom for the commission of an open and daring outrage. His wife endeavoured to obtain a divorce, but at length his death set her at liberty, and she took for her third husband Eobert de Aguillon, lord of the manor of Addington, whom she also survived. She died in 1292, and, from an inquisition then taken, it appears that she held in dower, inter alia, a messuage and garden at Faukes-hall, value 2s. a year; 80 acres of arable land, at 4d. an acre; 19 of meadow at 3s. ; rents of assize of customary tenants, £14 10s. Of d. ; and pleas and perquisites of court, 6s. 8d. : total, £21 14s. 6|d. Her son and grandson having both died before her, the estates of her family devolved on her grand-daughter Isabella, married to William de Fortibus, Earl of Albemarle. This Isabella had an only surviving daughter, Aveline, Avho in 1269 became the.Avife of LAMBETH. 89 Edmund Crouchback, Earl of Lancaster, the second son of Henry III.* After her decease without issue, Edward I. entered into a treaty with the old Countess Isabella, when on her death-bed in 1293, for the purchase of her estates, comprising the Isle of Wight, the manor of Christchurch, Hants, and the manors of " Lambyth and Faukeshall," all of which were eventually surrendered to him for the sum of 26,000 marks. This manor having thus become vested in the Crown, Edward II. granted it, together with Kennington, to Eoger D'Amorie and his wife Elizabeth, coheiress of Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester, and his heirs. But as D'Amorie joined in the insurrection against the King, under Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, in 1321, on its suppression he was attainted, and his estates confiscated; but the latter appear to have been restored to his widow, who in 11 Edward III. obtained a grant of the manors of Ilketeshall and Clopham in Suffolk, by way of exchange for Vauxhall and Kennington. The King in the same year granted the manor of Vauxhall to his eldest son, Edward the Black Prince, who in 1354 gave it to the monks of Canterbury, with a tenement at Lambeth, for the support of a chantry in their cathedral. On the dissolution of the convent this manor reverted to the Crown ; and in 1542 Henry VIII. settled it, together with Walworth, as a portion of the endowments of the Dean and Chapter of Canterbury, to whom it has ever since belonged. The site of the manor-house (long since pulled down), Avith adjacent grounds, was formerly demised by two leases, one under the title of the " Manor," and the other of " Fauxhall Wharf; " but a considerable part of the freehold was afterwards sold by the Dean and Chapter to redeem the land tax. Vauxhall Gardens. — An estate consisting of several copyhold tenements in the manors of Lambeth and Kennington belonged to a family named Fauxe, or Vaux, in the reigns of Elizabeth and James I. In 1615 Jane Vaux, widow, held property of that description here, and the mansion-house connected with it, as appears from Lysons, was called Stocdens. Mr. Nichols, in his "History of Lambeth Parish," has mistakenly affirmed that Guy Vaux had a capital mansion here, and that it had the name of Vaux Hall from him. He also says, in speaking of Jane Vaux, " it is highly probable that she Avas the relict of the infamous Guy, who was executed in 1606 ; " but, as Mr. Bray remarks, Guy Vaux could not have been the owner of the copyhold belonging to Jane Vaux in 1615, for if she had been his widow it would have been forfeited as the estate of a traitor. There is not, however, the least credible ground for supposing that either * Aveline and Crouchback were both interred in Westminster Abbey, where splendid monuments (now much deteriorated by time and wilful mischief) were erected to their memory, correct views of which have been civen in Brayley and Neale's Illustrations of that edifice, vol. ii. VOL. III. N go HISTORY OF SURREY. the estate or the lady ever pertained to that notorious personage* She was, in fact, the widow of John Vaux, a citizen and vintner of London, who by his will made in 1612 devised property for the erection of seven almshouses in this parish. Jane Vaux died in 1615, leaving two daughters her coheiresses, one of whom was then the widow of Dr. William Barlow, Bishop of Lincoln. At what time these premises were first opened as a place of public recreation is uncertain ; but a patent is extant by Avhich Simon Osbaldeston was appointed Keeper of the King's garden, called Spring Garden, and of the bowling-green there, in 1631. It would seem from that document that the garden had been made by the King's command, but its situation is not mentioned, and both garden and bowling-green were " put down " in 1634, from having " grown scandalous and intollerable." f Shortly after a new Spring Garden was formed near the Meuse at Charing Cross, where a " fair house Avas built, and tAvo bowling-greens made to entertain gamesters and bowlers at an excessive rate." % * In an examination on the 7th of November, 1605, in which for the first time he gave his real name, Guido or Guy Fawkes, he stated that he " was born in the city of York, and that his father's name was Edward Fawkes, a gentle man, a younger brother, who died about thirty years before, and left to him but small hving, which he spent." The correctness of this is verified by the following entry in the Register of St. Olave's, in Marygate, at York : — " Mr. Edward Fawkes, Registrar and Advocate of the Consistory Court of the Cathedral Church of York, about forty-six years of age, buried in the Cathedral Church, January 17th, 1578." (See Jardine's "Criminal Trials," vol. ii. p. 31.) The house in which the conspirators stored their powder and other combustibles during the digging of the mine was certainly at Lambeth, and near the riverside ; but that house did not belong to any of them, it being merely hired for their purpose in the summer of 1604. Robert Ke}res, to whose keeping it was intrusted, was hanged and quartered in Old Palace Yard, together with Fawkes, Rookwood, and AVinter the younger, on the 31st of January, 1606. It is remarkable that neither history nor tradition has recorded the exact site of the conspirators' storehouse. Mr. Nichols; indeed (writing in the last century), assigned it to " that place now called Marble-hall and Cumberland tea- gardens," which at the present time forms a part of the waterside premises connected with the station of the South western Railway Company at Nine Ehns. But this was a mere inference, drawn from a survey of the manor of Kennington made in January, 1715, in which a "capital tenement called Fauxehall" is marked as standing in the situation above specified. That building was doubtless the old manor-house of Vauxhall, which our author erroneously conceived' to have belonged to Guy Fawkes, though there is not the least concurrent authority to corroborate such opinion. But if unacquainted with the spot whereon the building stood, we have the following evidence of its destruction by fire. In an anniversary sermon preached at Lambeth Church by Dr. Featley on November 5th, 1635, is this passage : — " You have heard the miracles of God's providence in the discovery of this powder plot : behold now the mirrour of his justice. The first contriver of the fire-workes first feeleth the flame; his powder sin upbraids him, and fleeth in his face." It is added in a note, " This last yeare, the house where Catesby plotted this treason in Lambeth was casually burnt downe to the ground by powder." — Featley's Clams Mystica, p. 824, 4to, 1636. t "Stafford Papers," vol. i. p. 262. '•' There was kept in it an ordinary of 6s. a meal (when the king's proclamation allows but two elsewhere), continued bibbing and drinking wine all day under the trees, and two or three quarrels every week ; — besides, my Lord Digby being reprehended for striking in tho king's garden, he said, he took it for a common bowling place, where all paid money for their coining in." X Id. p. 435. In Evelyn's " Diary" is the foUowing passage, which is remarkably corroborative of the above allusion in the " Stafford Papers : "— " My Lady Gerrard treated us at Mulberry Garden, now ye onely place of refreshment about the towne for persons of ye best quality to be exceedingly cheated at; Cromwell and his partizans having shut up and seiz'd on Spring Garden, wch till now had ben y<= usual rendezvous for the ladys and gallants at this season." (Vol. i. p. 274, under the date May 10th, 1654.) LAMBETH. 9* The earliest notice, perhaps, that can be specifically assigned to Vauxhall Gardens is by Evelyn, who writes in his " Diary " (2nd July, 1661), "I Avent to see the Ncav Spring Garden at Lambeth, a pretty contriv'd plantation." With this agrees the mention of " les Jardins du Prin-temps" at Lambeth by Baltshasar Mon cony s (in his "Voyage d'Angleterre "), a French traveller, who visited this country early in the reign of Charles II., but who seems to have misunderstood the name, which has nothing to do with "le printemps," but refers to artificial jets of water. He speaks of them as being much frequented in 1663, and "haA'ing grass and sand walks dividing squares of 20 or 30 yards, inclosed with hedges of gooseberries, within which were roses, beans, and asparagus." Aubrey, who in one or two instances has been falsely quoted in respect to this place, states that Sir Samuel Morland " built a fine Eoom at Vaux-hall, anno 1667, the inside all of Looking- glass, and Fountains very pleasant to behold, which is much visited by Strangers ; it stands in the middle of the Garden." He next mentions the house of the Tradescants at South Lambeth, and then says, "Without the new Spring-Garden is the remainder of a kind of Horn-work, belonging to the lines of communication made about 1643-4." * Lysons (citing an enrolment in the Duchy of Cornwall Office) informs us that Sir Samuel Morland in 1675 " obtained a lease of Vauxhall-house, made it his residence, and considerably improved the premises ; " but he imagined that this lease referred to the ancient Copt Hall, and regarded it as questionable whether Morland ever owned any part of the Vauxhall Gardens. Mr. Bray, however, after observing that Sir Samuel may have derived the lease of his premises from the heirs of Jane Vaux, states, from the information furnished by Mr. Barrett, one of the proprietors of Vauxhall in 1813, a circumstance which proves that the dwelling then connected with the garden must have been that belonging to Sir S. Morland. From the back kitchen of the house a lead pump was removed about 1794, bearing Sir Samuel's mark, as shown in the margin."]" The room mentioned by Aubrey as having been erected by him is believed to l S 6 9 M 4 have stood where the orchestra was afterwards built ; and Mr. Bray adverts to the proba bility of its having been erected by Morland for the entertainment of Charles II. when he visited this place with his ladies. Whatever be the fact respecting ownership, it is certain that these Gardens were * " Surrey," vol. i. -pp. 12, 13. In the plan showing the situation of the forts on the lines of communication surrounding the city and suburbs, engraved by Vertue for Maitland's " London," the A^auxhall defence is described as " a Quadrant Fort, with four half-bulwarks." Its situation is immediately adjacent to the site lately occupied by Vauxhall Gardens, and may therefore be regarded as sufficiently identifying the latter with Aubrey's Spring Garden. t It is difficult to reconcile the date 1694, here given as that upon the pump, with the latter circumstances of Sir Samuel's hfe, as he purchased a house near the waterside, at Hammersmith, about 1684, and continued to reside there • until his decease in 1696. 92 HISTORY OF SURREY. called Spring Garden for a long period. In a plan (seen by Mr. Bray) dated 1681 they are so named, and "marked as planted with trees, and laid out in walks ; " and Addison, in his imaginary visit to " Spring Garden," Vauxhall, with Sir Eoger de Coverley, in May, 1712, affords some insight into the customs and character of the place at that time.* The license every season was, down to the breaking up of the Gardens a feAV years ago, obtained by the title of the " Spring Garden, Vauxhall." On the 17th of March, 1728, a lease was granted by Elizabeth Masters, of London, to Jonathan Tyers, of Surrey, for the term of thirty years, of " all that parcel of ground called Vauxhall, or Spring Gardens," at the yearly rent of £250. The enterprise of the lessee effected many improvements, and on the 7th of June, 1732, he opened the season with a Ridotlo aV Fresco, a phrase until then unknoAvn here, and more suitable to the warmer skies of Italy than to this country. Instrumental music and a masquerade were included in the amusements, and among the visitors were Frederick, Prince of Wales, the Earl of Scarborough, the Lord Gage, and other attendant nobles. On this occasion about four hundred persons were present, one-third of whom Avere " Avithout Masks, the rest were generally in Dominoes and Lawyers' Gowns."f The admission tickets were a guinea each, and a guard of soldiers was posted about the place to prevent disturbance. The Eidotto was several times repeated in the course of the summer, and Avith so much success that the proprietor was induced " to make his garden a place of musical entertain ment for every evening during the summer season : to this end he was at a great expense in decorating the gardens with paintings ; he engaged a band of excellent musicians ; he issued silver tickets of admission at a guinea each, and, receiving great encouragement, he set up an organ in the orchestra, and in a conspicuous part of the garden erected a fine statue of Mr. Handel, the Avork of Eoubiliac." % From Dr. Burney we learn that Mr. Tyers, in the summer of 1745, added vocal to his instrumental performances, on which occasion the orchestra was enlarged, and Mrs. Arne, * Spectator, No. 383. This paper is headed with the motto, " Criminibus debent Hortos," from Juvenal — " A beauteous garden, but by Vice maintain'd;" and its description is accordant with the motto, viz. "AVhen I con sidered the fragrancy of the walks and bowers, with the choirs of birds that sung upon the trees, and the loose tribe of people that walked under their shades, I could not but look upon the place as a kind of Mahometan Paradise." t Gentleman's Magazine, vol. ii. p. 823. The admission ticket was designed by the younger Laguerre, and has been copied in Nichols's " Lambeth," as have hkewise nine smaller admission tickets of silver, which were subsequently issued to annual subscribers to the Gardens. X Hawkins, " History of Music," vol. v. p. 362. Handel was represented as Orpheus playing on his lyre : the likeness was exact. It was placed in the grounds in 1738. The idea of embellishing the Gardens with paintings was suggested to Mr. Tyers by Hogarth (who had slimmer lodgings at South Lambeth), and some of them were executed by Haynian from his designs. In return for his advice and assistance, the grateful proprietor presented Hogarth with a gold ticket of admission for himself and his friends, " in perpetuam beneficii memoriam." Nearly all the paintings which formerly ornamented the pavilions were by Hayman. LAMBETH. 93 who before her marriage had studied under Geminiani, being engaged as principal singer, her husband, afterwards Dr. Arne, began to compose for the entertainments. His ballads, duets, and other pieces, sung at Vauxhall in different seasons, obtained great applause, and by their circulation over the kingdom had considerable influence in forming the public taste for vocal melody. The Messrs. Lowe and the elder Eeinhold were also engaged to sing, and Wornam Avas employed as organist. Here the latter first exercised his genius in composition, and the numerous songs and concertos which he produced diversified the amusements.* In 1752 Mr. Tyers purchased one moiety of this estate from George Doddington, Esq., for £3,800 ; and a few years afterwards, as Lysons informs us from records in the Duchy of Cornwall Office, "he bought the remainder."! This, most probably, was at the. expiration of his original lease in 1758. He died in 1767, and Mr. Bray says " so great was the delight he took in this place, that, possessing his faculties to'the last, he caused himself to be carried into the gardens a few hours before his death, to take a last look at them." % He had devised this property equally among his four children, Thomas, Jonathan, Margaret, and Elizabeth ; and Jonathan, the youngest son, conducted the Gardens until his. own decease in 1792. The management then devolved on Mr. Bryant Barrett, an affluent wax-chandler, who had become part OAvner by his marriage with the only daughter and child of the late Mr. Tyers, and who subsequently purchased the other share. § He died in 1809, having bequeathed this estate to his two sons, George Eogers Barrett, Esq., and the Eev. Jonathan Tyers Barrett, D.D., Prebendary of St. Paul's, by the first of whom the entertainments were carried on till the property was disposed of by auction in 1821. The purchasers were Thomas Bish (the well-known lottery contractor), Frederick Gye, and Eichard Hughes, who reopened the place in 1822, under the King's patronage, as the Eoyal Gardens. Mr. Bish shortly retired, but Messrs. Gye and Hughes continued to conduct it, with more or less success, and with a great variation in the amusements, until the summer of 1840, when a fiat of bankruptcy was issued against them. At that time there were encumbrances on the property to the amount of £23,000, including several mortgages. The Court of Eeview directed a public sale, which nominally took place at Garraway's in 1841, the estate and all its direct appurtenances, as buildings, timber, covered Avalks, &c, being comprised in a single lot. It was stated that the land, about 11 acres, was held under the Queen, as lady of the manor of Kennington in right of her * Burney, " History of Music," vol. iv. pp. 667, 668. t Lysons, " Environs," vol. i. p. 324. X Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. hi. p. 492. § Id. 94 HISTORY OF SURREY. duchy of Cornwall, and that it was subject only to an annual quit-rent of £1 3s. 7d., and not more than 5s. a year for tithe. The highest bidding was £20,200, at which sum this property appears to have been bought in, the estate being still in the possession of the assignees.* It was afterwards rented by different parties, and the amusements greatly varied. Besides the eminent composers and vocalists mentioned above, many others might be named of high celebrity, who acquired no inconsiderable portion of their rising fame in these Gardens. Of the former class Avere Boyce, Carter, Mountain, Hook (organist here upwards of forty years), and Signor Storace : among the latter, of male singers, were Webb, Vernon, Incledon, Braham, Pyne, Sinclair, Tinney, and Bedford ; and of females, Miss Brent (afterwards Mrs. Pinto), the much-lamented Mrs. Wrighten (drowned at sea), Mrs. Kennedy, Mrs. Weichsel (the mother of Mrs. Billington), Miss Leary, Mrs. Martyr, Mrs. Mountain, Signora Storace, Mrs. Crouch, Mrs. Bland, Miss Tyrer (afterwards Mrs. Liston), Miss Graddon (afterwards Mrs. Gibbs), Miss Pool, Miss Travers, and Miss Love. One of the earliest representations of Vauxhall is attached to a quarto tract entitled "A Trip to Vauxhall," dated in 1737. It is a curious print, of a bird's-eye character, exhibiting the seats and supper-tables in the quadrangle surrounding the orchestra, together with a perspective of the long walk, and an Herculean statue at its extremity. About sixty visitors of both sexes are scattered around, and in front of the orchestral band is a prominent figure wearing a cocked hat and playing the trumpet. This possibly was intended for-the celebrated Valentine Snow (afterwards sergeant trumpeter), of whom Dr. Burney says he was "justly a favourite here, where his silver sounds in the open air, by having room to expand, never arrived at the ears of the audience in a manner too powerful or piercing." The principal buildings in these Gardens were the orchestra, the Prince's pavilion (so called from its having been originally built for the accommodation of Frederick, Prince of Wales, son of George II.), the rotunda and its several appendages, a saloon or supper- room, two octagon temples, a theatre, and a high firework tower. The orchestra was a handsome structure of wood, surmounted by a dome, and variously embellished by painting and characteristic plastic ornaments. It stood near the middle of an oblong quadrangle called the Grove, and was surrounded by broad covered walks, from the roofing of which tiers of coloured illumination lamps Avere suspended. At the head of the quadrangle, westward, was the pavilion, of the composite order, and entered by a flight of steps at each end. The interior was splendidly fitted up. The rotunda, 70 feet in diameter, had a * The assignees were Thos. M. Alsager and George Balne, Esqs., of whom the former, being the official assignee, committed suicide, from some unknown cause, in 1846. LAMBETH. 95 considerable part of its area enclosed as a ride for equestrian performances, and at the upper end was a small stage for fantoccini and other exhibitions of a minor description.* Opposite the stage was a spacious gallery, and on each side of the circle a range of boxes ; but access to these required an additional payment. The supper-room was a noble apart ment, illumined by handsome chandeliers of diversely coloured lamps. In the theatre (which occupied a distinct site at some distance northward of the quadrangle) a curious piece of machinery, representing a landscape with a miller's house, a Avater-mill, cascade, and moving figures, was exhibited during many years; but latterly this place was appropriated for ballets, rope-dancing, short dramatic pieces, juggling, hydraulic experi ments, and other amusements. In different parts of the grounds cosmoramic and perspective vieAvs were shown, which were frequently changed in accordance with the subjects most engaging the attention of the public. In the Italian walk various statuary casts were placed ; in . another part was a figure of Eve at the Fountain ; and at the termination of the principal walk Avas Neptune in his car drawn by sea-horses, with jets of water issuing from their nostrils. The illuminations and fireworks displayed in these Gardens were highly attractive, and almost realised, the radiant descriptions of Eastern tales. On gala and other particular nights more than 20,000 lamps have been used to give effect to the devices and increase the general brilliancy, whilst superadded fireworks have shed new splendour on the darkening shades of the midnight hour. Here the celebrated Madame Saqui has descended from a great height, along a rope several hundred feet in length, amidst a fiery shower ; and others equally adventurous have followed her example. Numerous balloon ascents have taken place from these grounds, of which the first, in point of time, was that of Madame and Mons. Garnerin and Mr. Glassford in 1802. When at a considerable elevation a cat suspended to a small parachute was dropped from the car, and reached the ground in perfect safety. In 1802 M. Garnerin himself descended safely from a vast height in a cylindrical basket attached to a parachute. The British aeronaut, the elder Mr. Green, frequently ascended hence, and particu larly during the summer of 1836, when the magnificent machine then called the Eoyal Vauxhall Balloon was first used."]" On its first trial nine persons ascended with him. They alighted without accident near Cliffe, below Gravesend. * Here, many years ago, was introduced, by the appellation " L'Attelier de Canova," one of the earhest statuary representations by living actors, afterwards known under the name of tableaux vivants, &c, to the destruction of youthful morality, and utter shame of the local authorities who permitted their exhibition. t This stupendous globe, when fully inflated, was 80 feet in height, and 159 feet in circumference. It contained about 70,000 cubic feet of gas, and was composed of 2,000 yards of silk, crimson and white, woven in a peculiar manner, and of a very thick fabric. The gores were additionally strengthened by an elastic cement of pecuhar tenacity. 96 HISTORY OF SURREY. But a still more extraordinary aerial voyage was accomplished with this balloon in the following November, when Messrs. Green, Monck Mason, and Holland were carried from Vauxhall to Weilburg, in the duchy of Nassau, a distance of nearly 350 miles in a straight line, in about eighteen hours. They ascended at 1.30 in the afternoon, reached Dover in three hours and eighteen minutes, crossed the Channel in one hour and two minutes, passed Namur at 11.30 at night, crossed the Ehine to the north of Coblentz about- six o'clock tho next morning, and descended near Weilburg at 7.30, every assistance being afforded them in landing, amidst the acclamations of wondering thousands. In acknowledgment of this kindness, and of the hospitable reception our travellers met with from the Duke of Nassau, the name of their vehicle was changed to that of the Nassau Balloon, by which it was distinguished in all its subsequent nights. On the above occasions both the Gardens and the neighbourhood were crowded by dense masses of people to an extent almost unparalleled. In 1859 a vast concourse of people were attracted to the Gardens by the announce ment that the well-known theatre, orchestra, dancing-platform, firework gallery, &c, would be sold by auction. The temple, orchestra, pictures, and statues fetched ridicu lously small prices, and the Gardens ceased to exist. Their site was soon covered by streets of small houses. Shortly afterwards the Prince of Wales went to Vauxhall, but it was to lay the foundation stone of the present Lambeth School of Art. This school was originally established in 1854 by the Eev. William Gregory, then Vicar of St. Mary's, Lambeth, as a branch of the Central School of Design at Marlborough House. This was really the first art school of design in the kingdom, as indeed it should be. The Lambeth school went on steadily increasing until 1860, when, as above mentioned, the Prince of Wales laid the foundation stone of the new building. Vauxhall Bridge. — This is an iron bridge, and was the first constructed of that material in or near the metropolis. It was originally styled " Eegent Bridge," the first stone having been laid by Lord Dundas as proxy for the Prince Eegent, afterwards George IV., in 1811, and it was opened in 1816. There are nine arches, each 78 feet in span and 29 feet in height, springing from stone piers, rusticated, and partly composed of rude fragments united by Parker's cement. The roadway is 36 feet in breadth, and the whole length of the bridge 809 feet. This bridge was built at the expense of a body of shareholders, speculating on the profits which might arise from the tolls. The outlay was about £300,000. Mr. Ealph Dodd was the original projector of Vauxhall Bridge, and for a short time employed by the managers of the undertaking as their architect, as were also in succession Sir James LAMBETH. 97 Bentham and Mr. John Eennie ; but the design as well as the execution of the work was ultimately intrusted to Mr. James Walker. This structure forms a most convenient thoroughfare for the extensive and rapidly increasing neighbourhoods of Pimlico and Chelsea. The Manor of Kennington. — This manor belonged to the Crown in the Saxon times, and its name Chenintune, as it is spelt in the Doomsday Book, would seem to be derived from Kynmje and tun ; that is, the place or town of the Icing. It is thus described in the Norman record : — " Theodoric the Goldsmith holds Chenintune of the King. He held it in person of King Edward. It was then assessed at 5 hides. It is now rated at 1 hide and 3 virgates. The arable land is 2-| carucates. In demesne is 1 carucate; and one villain, and one bordar, with 2 carucates. There is one bondman, and 4 acres of meadow. It Avas, and is, worth £3." Eichard I. in 1189 granted to Sir Eobert Percy the custody of this manor for life, at an annual rent of 20 marks, and appointed him steward of the lordship, and keeper of the manor-house, garden, &c, with wages of 4d. a day as keeper, to be deducted out of the rent.* At Christmas, 1231, Henry III. held his court at Lambeth [Kennington], when Hubert de Burgh, Justiciary of England, provided everything requisite for the regal festival, j" In the following year (after Hubert had been removed from his office, and, having been charged with high crimes and misdemeanours, was subjected to a severe prosecution) a Council or Parliament was assembled at this place, at the festival of the Exaltation of the Cross, at which were present the King, the bishops, and other dignitaries of the Church, and likewise the grandees [proceres] of the kingdom. On that occasion Hubert was summoned to attend the court, but he refused to appear, and was threatened with extreme vengeance for his contumacy. J A grant of a fortieth part of their movables was then given to the King by the clergy and laity, under the authority of those present at the meeting. Grants of the custody of this manor were made to various persons by Henry III. and Edward II., the latter of whom, in 1319, gave the manors of Kennington and Faukes- hall to Eoger D'Amorie and Elizabeth his wife, as stated in our account of Vauxhall. On the decease of the former in 1321 his estates were seized by the King, but they were * Bibl. Harl. MSS. No. 433, f. 63. The "barn, with other easements without the pale there," is mentioned in the grant. This was, doubtless, the Long Barn, as subsequently called, which was constructed of flint and stone, with strono- buttresses, and a very high gable roof sustained by massive timbers. After being used both as a granary and stable, it became in 1709 one of the receptacles for the distressed Protestants from the Palatinate. Its length was 180 feet. It was pulled down in 1795. + Matt. Paris, " Hist. Angl." p. 354. J Id. p. 364. (See account of Merton.) VOL. III. 0 98 HISTORY OF SURREY. afterwards restored to his relict, who conveyed them to Edward III. in 1338, in exchange for other manors in Suffolk, her daughter Elizabeth, with her husband, John, Lord Bardolf, joining in the release. In the following year the King was at Kennington in the months of February, March, July, and October, as appears from various documents (printed in the "Fcedera"), Avhich are attested by his eldest son, the Black Prince, then only ten years of age. He also kept his Christmas here in 1342. Edward the Black Prince died in 1376, soon after which his son Eichard was created Prince of Wales. In the same year, on the Sunday before Candlemas, the citizens of London made a Show, or Mummery, "for disport of the young Prince," who "remained at Kennington with his mother, his uncle the Duke of Lancaster, the Earls of Cambridge, Hertford, Warwick, and Suffolk, and divers other Lords." * The Prince continued here until his accession to the throne in the June following, previously to which the Duke of Lancaster had sought refuge with him from a tumultuary assemblage of the citizens, whom he had exasperated by some discourtesy towards the Bishop of London (William Courte- nay) during the proceedings at St. Paul's against Wycliff, who had attended the Convo cation under the protection of the Duke. Eventually the differences were adjusted by the interference of the youthful King and his mother, the Princess-Dowager of Wales. Several of our succeeding kings resided occasionally at Kennington, as appears both from public records and the testimony of historians ; but at what time the manor-house ceased to be occupied as a royal palace is uncertain. Henry VII. was here shortly previous to his coronation, and on the eve of St. Simon and St. Jude "he came from Kennington unto Lambeth, and there dined with Thomas Bourchier, archbishoppe of Canterburie : — and after dinner with a goodly companie of the estates of this realm both spirituall and temporall, from thence went by land towards London, his nobles riding after * Stow's "London," edit. 1618. The Show was "in this manner: In the night, one hundred and thirty Citizens, disguised and well horsed, in a rfttwmmtrg, with sound of trumpets, sackbuts, cornets, shalmes, and other minstrels, and innumerable torch-lights of waxe, rode from Newgate through Cheapo over the Bridge through Southwarke, and so to Kennington beside Lambeth : — In the first ranke did ride 48 in the hkenesse and habite of Esquires, two and two rode together, cloathed in red coates and gownes of Say or Senclall, with comeley visors on their faces. After them came riding 48 Knights, in the same livery, of colour and stuffe. Then followed one richly arraied, like an Emperor ; after him some distance, one stately tyred like a Pope, who was followed by 24 Cardinals, and after them eight or ten with blacke visors, not amiable, as if they had bin Legates from some forraine Princes. These Maskers, after they had entred the Mannor of Kennington, alighted fro' their horses, and entred the hall on foote, which done, the Prince, his Mother, and the Lords came out of the Chamber into the hall, whom the Mummers did salute ; shewing by a paire of dice on the table, their desire to play with the Prince, which they so handled that the Prince did alwaies winne when he cast at them. Then the Mummers set to the Prince three Jewels, one after another, which were a Boule of gold, a Cuppe of gold, and a Ring, of gold, which the Prince wonne at three casts. Then they set to the Princes Mother, the Duke, the Earles, and other Lords, to every one a Ringe of gold, which they did also winne. After which they were feasted, and the musicke sounded. The Prince and Lords daunced on the one part with the Mummers, who did also daunce : which lolity being ended, they were againe made to drinke, and then departed in order as they came." — Id. pp. 148, 149. LAMBETH. 99 the guise of France upon small hackneies, two and two upon a horse ; and at London Bridge end the Maior of London with his brethren and the craftes, met and received the King, and the King proceeded to Grace-Church corner, and so to the Tower." * Leland says that Katherine of Arragon was here for a few days,"]" after which it is probable the palace fell to decay ; for Camden, Avriting in the latter years of Queen Elizabeth's reign, says (though somewhat erroneously) that " of this retreat of our ancient kings, neither the name nor ruins are now to be found." J James I. settled this manor with other estates on his eldest son, Henry, Prince of Wales, and after his decease in 1612 on Prince Charles, afterwards Charles I.; and they have ever since been held as part of the estate of the Princes of Wales, as Dukes of Cornwall.§ In 1617 Prince Charles granted a lease of the manor of Kennington, comprising 122 acres, to Sir Noel Caron, Knt., for twenty-one years, at a yearly rent of £16 10s. 9d. ; but he retained the site of the palace and its garden, occupying 10 acres of ground, in his own possession till he came to the crown in 1625. In the year prior to that event, however, he had granted a lease of the manor, &c, to Francis, Lord Cottington, his secretary, for eighteen years; and he subsequently extended the term for three years longer. || The estates of Lord Cottington were afterwards sequestered for "delinquency," and in 1646 his interest in this demesne Avas sold (under an ordinance of Parliament) to Eichard Boucher, of St. Clement Danes, London, for £900. At the Eestoration the manorial estate reverted to the CroAvn; and Charles II. in 1661 demised to Henry, Lord Moore, afterwards Earl of Drogheda, this manor, with other lands belonging to the duchy of Cornwall, and a capital messuage called Fauxhall, for thirty-one years, at an annual rent of £150, but with a power of resumption as to the latter messuage, of which the King availed himself, and then granted to his lord.ship a new lease of Kennington at £100 yearly. In 1747 a lease of the capital messuage of this manor and its appurtenant lands was obtained by William Clayton, Esq., of Harleyford, Bucks, for thirty-one years, and in 1765 an additional lease for eighteen years was granted to the same gentleman. A further change was made in 1776, when an Act of Parliament * Stow's Chronicle, p. 788. + « Collectanea," vol. v. p. 355. X "iEdes reghe Kennington dictee, quo reges Anglias olim secedere soliti, sed nunc nee nomen, nee rudera invenimus."— Britannia : Surrey. § Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. hi. p. 486. || In a survey of the Kennington demesne, taken in 1636 by Sir Charles Harbord, Surveyor General of the Duchv of Cornwall, the manor-house is stated to be « a small, old, low, timber building, situated upon part of the foundation of the ancient mansion-house of the Black Prince, and other Dukes of Cornwall after him, which was Ion- sin-e utterly ruined." (See Nichols's " Lambeth," in which is a small plan of the site and precincts of the palace, copied from the survey.) L ioo HISTORY OF SURREY. was passed, enabling Mr. Clayton to surrender the existing leases and take a new one for ninety-nine years (determinable on three lives), for the purposes of building, &c. ; and " on the faith of this lease and act, buildings have been erected, producing [in 1814] about £2,000 a year in ground rents." * Since that time a vast increase in the houses and population of this district has taken place, and the value of the property been proportionably augmented. Kennington Palace stood within a triangular plot of ground near Kennington Cross, now bounded by Park Place, Devonshire Street, and Park Street ; and though no portion of the building remains aboveground, thick fragments of walls of flint, chalk, and rubble- stone intermixed, may be seen in the cellars of houses in Park Place. The Long Barn, referred to in a previous note, ran parallel with this line of houses. In Upper Kennington Lane, on the north side, is Vauxhall Chapel, a plain edifice of brick, dedicated to St. John, erected in 1816 at a cost of about £2,000, raised by voluntary contribution of persons of the Independent persuasion. The chapel is noAV occupied by a congregation of Anabaptists. St. Peter's Church, close by, was consecrated in 1864. It is a large brick-built edifice, of early English architecture, and was erected from the designs of Mr. J. L. Pearson. The fabric has sittings for a congregation of 840. Adjoining the church are some schools and a mission-house. In Lower Kennington Lane is Carlisle Congregational Chapel, so called from having been erected, about seventy years ago, by the Eev. George Gibson, when master of the Carlisle House Boarding School. The stuccoed front is surmounted by a single-bell turret. Between Kennington Lane and the Oval, on the site now occupied by the gas-holders or stores in connection with the Phoenix Gas Works at Vauxhall Bridge, were formerly the South London Water Works, constructed by a joint-stock company under the provisions of an Act of Parliament obtained in 1805. The site comprises about 5 acres, on which a steam-engine and the requisite buildings were erected, and two reservoirs formed, for the supply of water drawn from the Thames, but in a purer state, to certain parts of Lambeth, Newington, Bermondsey, Eotherhithe, Deptford, Peckham Eye, Camberwell, Dulwich, Clapham, and other adjacent places. Other works have since been raised by the company, and a steam-engine erected at Vauxhall Creek, on ground that belonged to the once-celebrated Cumberland Gardens. On the same side is the Licensed Victuallers' School. This establishment owes * Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. iii. p. 488. LAMBETH. i°i Its origin to the "Friendly Society of Licensed Victuallers," instituted in 1793, and incorporated by royal charter in 1836. The primary object of the society was to " afford relief to sick, infirm, and distressed Brethren in Trade ; " and in aid of that purpose the Morning Advertiser newspaper was published, which commenced in 1794, and has ever since been continued, as it proved a profitable speculation. Subsequently to that under taking, the school Avas established for the clothing, educating, and putting out in the world the children of either sex of distressed, decayed, and deceased members of the society. The children receive a thorough commercial education, including drawing, mathematics, &c. ; the girls are also trained for household work and other useful occupations ; and all are instructed in religion according to the doctrines of the Established Church. There are a head master and two assistants, a head mistress and two assistants, and also a matron. The funds supporting the school arise from life and yearly subscriptions; from dividends, donations, and legacies; and from the profits of annual balls, &c. The present school was erected in 1836 on the site of a plain brick edifice, originally adapted for the purpose about 1807. It is a handsome building, designed by the late Mr. Henry Eose, architect, of Bermondsey. The basement story, which is of stone, is rusticated ; the superstructure is of brick, but fronted by a projecting portico and pediment of the Corinthian order. The interior is commodiously arranged, and contains distinct schools and other apartments for the children of either sex. This institution is under the superintendence of a governor and a committee of management, consisting of six trustees and sixteen other persons. The Queen is patroness. The Vestry Hall for the parish of Lambeth is in Kennington Eoad, near the green. It is a commodious brick-built edifice, and was erected in 1854-5. The building contains offices for the clerk to the magistrates, the clerk to the Burial Board, the Lambeth Board of Works, the officers of the Vestry of Lambeth, &c, besides a spacious room for general meetings, &c. In Kennington Eoad is Verulam Chapel, a plain square building, erected in 1825, and affording accommodation for 500 persons. Originally this chapel Avas in the Independent connection, but it is now Episcopal, and is known as Verulam District Church. Nearly opposite Verulam Chapel is St. Philip's Church, a Gothic edifice of stone, built from the designs of Mr. H. E. Coe, and consecrated in 1863. It contains sittings for 950 worshippers. The district has a population of about 8,000. Kennington Park, on the east side of Kennington Eoad, is an enclosed piece of ground 102 HISTORY OF SURREY. some 20 acres in extent, ornamented with plots of turf, flower beds, and intersected by gravel walks, as a place of recreation for the inhabitants of the district, and is under the charge of the Metropolitan Board of Works. It was formerly known as Kennington Common, and was celebrated for cricket matches, itinerant preaching, pugilistic contests, and other popular disports. During the revolutionary war with France this was the frequent exercise ground of different volunteer regiments. On the west side, fronting the common, is the well-known Horns Tavern and Hotel. Here is a handsome concert and assembly room, which is occasionally appro priated to horticultural and floral exhibitions, and also used for the delivery of lectures, both scientific and amusing. St. Mark's Church, Kennington. — This church, which was built in 1822—24 from the designs of Mr. D. E. Eoper, stands at the southern extremity of Kennington Park, near the intersection of the road leading to Brixton and Croydon with that from Vauxhall to Camberwell, on a spot somewhat remarkable as having been the place of execution for criminals doomed to capital punishment at the county assizes; and many persons suffered here as traitors, who were tried at St. Margaret's Hill in 1746, after the insurrection of the Scotch in the preceding year in favour of the younger " Pre tender." The body of the edifice is of brick, with stone dressings, but the west front is wholly of stone : the steeple also, surmounting the roof of the central vestibule, is of the same material. The entire west front consists of a portico of the Doric order, composed of four fluted columns and two antse, based on a platform ascended by a flight of steps, and supporting an entablature and pediment. The entablature is continued along the walls of the church, but without its characteristic triglyphs. The steeple consists of three stories, and is surmounted by a spherical dome, crowned by a lofty cross. At the east end is an attached building, including a vestry and other offices, and beneath is a flight of steps descending to the catacombs. During the years 1873 — 76 the interior of this church Avas wholly remodelled and renovated ; the east window has been filled with stained glass, the subject being the Ascension of our Lord; and the organ has been removed from the western gallery to the eastern end of the church. A handsome reredos has also been added in memory of the late Eev. Charlton Lane, who was incumbent for thirty-three years. Kennington Church is in the diocese of Eochester, and the patronage is in the gift of the Archbishop of Canterbury. The following have been the Ministers of this church : — LAMBETH. '°3 I.— William Otter, M.A., afterwards Bishop of Chichester. Instituted in 1824. 2. — Charlton Lane, M.A. Instituted in 1833. 3.— Henry Robert Lloyd, M.A. Instituted in 1864. 4. — Edmund Henry Fisher, M.A., Archdeacon of Southwark. Instituted in 1869. The churchyard is enclosed by an iron railing upon a granite plinth, but interrupted at intervals by square piers of the same material supporting large lamps. It is planted with trees, and the ground neatly laid out. On its south side was a small stream, called the Effra, over which was a bridge that was repaired by the Canons of Merton Abbey, to whom lands had been anciently devised for the purpose. This rivulet took its rise in the upper parts of the Brixton district, and flowed along the eastern side of the high-road. Although the stream has been diverted from its original channel, or otherwise effaced, its name is kept in remembrance by a modern thoroughfare called Effra Eoad. New schools were built in St. Mark's parish in 1876. The district of St. John the Divine, with a population of 9,000, has been taken from St. Mark's. This church was erected in 1874 at a cost of £20,000. Schools were built in 1872 at a cost of £3,000. St. James's Church, Kennington Park Eoad, was restored in 1875, and consecrated by the Bishop of Winchester. It is in the gift of the Bishop, and was built by subscription. The funds for the building were raised by the personal efforts of the Eev. Samuel Bache Harris, M.A., the first vicar. The parish was separated from St. Mark's, Kennington, and contains a population of 16,200. Schools were built here in 1851 at a cost of £80. The Church oe St. Agnes, on the east side of Kennington Park, is in the English middle pointed style of architecture, and was built from the designs of the late Sir G. Gilbert Scott. The east window, of stained glass, illustrating the doctrines of the Incarnation and the Atonement, cost £1,000, and serves as a memorial to the lady who was the chief benefactress of the church. Claylands. — From the situation of this estate, which lies on the southern side of Kennington Oval, it seems probable that it was formerly included in the deer park of Sir Noel Caron, Knt., ambassador from the States of Holland to this country in the respective reigns of Elizabeth and James I., and to whom, in 1617 (as previously stated), Prince Charles granted a lease of the demesne lands of Kennington manor, at the yearly rent of £16 10s. 9d., payable to the receivers for the duchy of Cornwall.* * According to Allen (" Hist, of Lambeth," p. 396, 1827), a great part of the walls which surrounded Sir NoelTs park, " particularly one piece across Kennington Oval," stiU existed when he wrote ; but scarcely any part now remains. The level area of the Oval is used as the Surrey cricket ground. Sir Noel's house at South Lambeth stood on a plot of ,o4 HISTORY OF SURREY. Claylands was bounded on the north side by the streamlet called the Effra (noticed above), which separated it from the Clayton property. It was purchased about ninety years ago by John Fentiman, Esq., at which time the land was chiefly a marsh, and had been let for grazing. The new owner, having drained the ground and filled up the hollows, enclosed several acres for plantations and pleasure grounds, and built a mansion for his own abode. He died in 1820, and was succeeded by his son, John Fentiman, Esq., at whose decease in 1838 this estate devolved on Catherine, his widow. The name is still kept up by Fentiman Eoad. From a survey of the manor of Kennington made in 1615, we find that Sir Thomas Parry, Chancellor of Lancaster, then held a house called Copped or Copt Hall, near the Thames ; and whilst he resided here the Lady Arabella Stuart, who had offended James I. by her marriage with William Seymour, grandson of the Earl of Hertford, was kept in confinement in this house, but having made her escape, she was again taken and committed to the Tower, where she died in 1615. On the death of Sir Thomas Parry, Copt Hall became the property of John Abrahall, who in 1629 surrendered it to Charles I. The Parliament, having taken possession ofthe estates ofthe Crown, sold this in 1652 to John Trenchard, of Westminster. Charles II. is said to have established here one Calthoff, a Dutchman, who conducted a manufactory of guns for the King's service. These premises, at a more recent period, were occupied as a distillery by Mr. Pratt, and afterwards by Sir Joseph Mawbey, his son-in-law. The Hall was a large timber-framed mansion fronting the Thames, with gable-ended wings and two octagonal turrets rising high above the roof. Near Kennington Oval, on the eastern side of the road leading into it from Vauxhall, are the Parochial Schools for the Kennington district, erected by voluntary contributions in 1824, and towards the support of which £900 in the 3 per cent. Consols were liberally given by the subscribers to the Lambeth Parochial School. There are distinct schools for each sex, with intermediate apartments for a master and mistress. Each school will accommodate about 200 children. In the Brixton Eoad, which, commencing near Kennington Park, passes the east end of St. Mark's Church, is Christ Church, Brixton, formerly known as Holland Chapel : it is a neat stuccoed edifice, with a bell turret over the central part. This was built by the Eev. J. Styles, D.D., in 1823, for Independents, and was for many years an Episcopal proprietary chapel. The district of Christ Church, with a population of 6,953, was taken ground now occupied by Beaufoy's distillery. It was nearly in the form of a half H, with gable roofs and projecting circular wings, and had latterly been converted into an academy. On the northern side of the Wandsworth Road near the Nine Elms, Sir Noel Caron built an almshouse for seven poor widows, which yet remains. He died in 1624, and was interred with much ceremony in Lambeth Church, his funeral sermon being preached by Archbishop Abbot. LAMBETH. 105 from St. Mark's in 1856. The church was restored in 1855 at a cost of £4,000. Schools were built here in 1860 at an expense of £2,000. This church stands on ground long held by the Holland family, and forming part of the manor of Lambeth Wyke, or Wye Court, an estate belonging to the Archbishops of Canterbury, by whom it has been let on lease for lives or terms of years. In the Taxation of 1291 this is called the Grange, or farm, of Le Wyke. More than a century ago the lease was possessed by Henry Fox, the first Lord Holland, and the estate was described as consisting of a mansion called Loughborough House, a garden, formerly called Bush Croft, and about 234 acres of land. The house, with the garden and orchard, comprising about 10 acres, was advertised in the Zondon Mercury of April 10th, 1682, to be let as "a great pennyworth," either on lease or at a yearly rent. Lysons supposed that at a former period it had been either the property or the residence of Henry, Lord Hastings, of Loughborough. It is a large edifice of red brick, and has an attached court, garden, &c, surrounded by old walls. For many years these premises were occupied as a school, but the house has been pulled down. Most important alterations and improvements have been made in this neighbourhood since the commencement of the present century. The Washway, so called from its low and plashy state, has been converted into a substantial road, and now displays handsome terraces and ornamental villas on each side. The Holland estate also has been appropriated for building, and is occupied by divers streets and detached dwellings having an air of respectability and affluence. Other ranges of houses of a similar character have been constructed, and the names of the Vassall and Holland Eoads, Eussell Terrace, &c, will preserve the memory of the family now holding this property. Kennington gave the title of Earl to William Augustus, second son of George II., who in 1720 was created Duke of Cumberland, Marquis of Berkhampstead, Earl of Kennington, and Baron of the Isle of Alderney. On his death without issue in 1765 these titles became extinct. The Manor op Stockwell, or South Lambeth. — The manor described in the Doomsday Book, among the lands of the Earl of Morton, under the name of Lanchei, was supposed by Lysons to have been that afterwards called Stockwell, or South Lambeth. This, however, seems questionable, for though Stockwell is now a distinct manor, suit and service are paid from it to the court of the Dean and Chapter of Canterbury, together with an annual chief rent of ld. ; hence it may rather be concluded that the manor had its origin in some grant to the Chapter of Canterbury. In the reign of King John the manor of Stockwell belonged to Baldwin, son of VOL. III. p 106 HISTORY OF SURREY. William de Eedvers, sixth Earl of Devon ; and his widow Margaret long held it, together with Faukeshall, or Vauxhall, as previously related in the account of that manor. Both these estates, with several others, descended to Isabella, Countess of Albemarle, grand daughter of the Countess Margaret ; and from that lady they were purchased by Edward I. a short time before her death, which took place at Stockwell in 1293. This manorial estate, having come into the hands of the King, was granted, probably by Edward II., to Thomas Eomayne (a citizen of London) and Juliana his wife, Avho in 1310 obtained a grant of the pnrvilege of free-warren here. Juliana survived her husband, and dying in 1326, was succeeded by her tAvo daughters, coheiresses, to the elder of whom, Eohesia, wife of John de Boreford, Stockwell and its appurtenances were assigned.* On her decease in 1330 her estates descended to her son, Sir James de Boreford, who in 1351 obtained a license to have an oratory in his mansion at Stockwell, and in 1359 he had a grant of the right of free-warren. Sir Thomas Swinford subsequently held this manor, which ho settled on his wife Catherine, who became the mistress, and at length the third consort, of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster. After repeated transfers the estate was purchased in 1461 by Ealph Leigh, Avhose son and heir, John Leigh, was made a Knight of the Bath on the marriage of Prince Arthur, eldest son of Henry VII. That gentleman held numerous estates in the county of Surrey, and dying Avithout issue in 1523, Stockvvell Avith others came into the possession of his nephew, John Leigh, Esq., by whom, or by his son of the same name, the manor was conveyed to Henry VIII. in 1547. "j" But the King is supposed to have had possession before that date, and to have been a resident here in 1533, when Edward Lee, Archbishop of York, was at this place, and judicially authenticated under seal, in presence of a notary public, the answer of the clergy of his province to the questions proposed concerning the validity of the marriage of the King with the Princess Catherine of Arragon, the widow of his brother, Prince Arthur. J Queen Mary granted Stockwell to Anthony Browne, Viscount Montagu, reserving a fee-farm rent of £8 12s. lid. ; and in 15S0 his lordship conveyed the manor-house, with certain lands adjacent, for a term of one thousand years, at an annual rent of £6 13s. 4d., to a person named Store; but he retained the manor, and died seized of it in * In the inquisition post mortem it was found that Juliana died seized of " a tenement in Stockwell, a capital messuage, two gardens, one dove-house, 287 acres of land, Vd\ of meadow, rents of assise of free and customary tenants £5 0s. 8|d. ; nineteen Neifs or Bondmen, who held 84| acres of land, rents called Cherset (Churchscot), viz. 9 cocks and 9 hens, rents of capital tenants,1 common fine at the view of Prank-pledge,- at Vauxhall, 13d. Total, ,£17 0s. Old." Escheats, 19 Edw. II. n. 85. t The person who thus alienated the estate must have been the John Leigh who, in 1541, had a quarrel with his neighbour, Henry, Earl of Surrey, who, it may be presumed, was the culpable party, for he was imprisoned on account of this feud, and obliged to give security for his peaceable behaviour towards the said Leigh. J Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. i. p. 498. LAMBETH. '°7 1592. It was held in the reign of James I. by Sir George Chute, afterwards by the family of Goffton, and in the time of William III. by that of Thornicroft. One of that family about 1790 sold the manor, with a house and about 14 acres of land, to WiUiam Lambert, Esq., of Ludgate Hill, who died at Wellfield House, Brixton, in 1810, leaving this estate to Elizabeth, his widow, and after her decease to James Lambert, his nephevr. The old manor-house devised, as above stated, by Viscount Montagu, came into the possession of Thomas Colwell, Esq., and was pulled down prior to 1755, and another house built, Avhich, with the land attached, was purchased in 1770 by Mr. Isaac Barrett, an affluent Avax- chandler, whose son and heir, Bryant, dying in 1808, bequeathed it (together with the Vauxhall property) to his sons, Geo. Eogers Barrett and the Eev. Jonathan Tyers Barrett, D.D., a Prebendary of St. Paul's. At the north-west angle of what was once Stockwell Common stood the large mansion which formerly belonged to John Angell, Esq., an eccentric gentleman, whose grandfather, Justinian, obtained this estate by his marriage with Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of John Caldwell, Esq., of Brixton Causeway. John Angell died in 1784, having by his will, dated 1775, bequeathed all his "lands and estates, both real and personal, in Surrey, Kent, and Sussex, to the heirs male, if any such there be, of William Angell, the first purchaser of CroAvhurst, and father of my great-grandfather, John Angell, Esq., and their heirs male, for ever," &c, but subject to the foundation and endowment of " a College, or Society, of seven decayed or unprovided-for Gentlemen, that shall be such by three descents, and tAvo Clergymen, an Organist, six Singing-men, and twelve Choristers, a Verger, or Chapel clerk, &c, and to be called the Gentlemen of St. John's College, near Stockwell." For the erection of the college and chapel, which were to be built on a free hold field called Burden Bush, he allotted £6,000, and for the endowment £800 per annum, the revenues for the payment of which he vested in the Archbishops of Canterbury and York, and the Lord Chancellor. The remainder of the property, in default of lineal male issue from his great-great-grandfather, he devised to. Brown, Esq., of Studley, in Wilts, a relation by female descent, who obtained possession of this and other estates of the deceased, and assumed the name of Angell. The foundation of the college was invalidated by the Statute of Mortmain, and several ~ Chancery and Exchequer suits and many ejectment cases have taken place, from the numerous claims made to Mr. AngelFs property, under the peculiar terms of his will. John Angell, of Crowhurst, Esq., his grandfather (as appears from his monument in Crowhurst Church), had twenty children, of whom six sons survived, and several of their descendants endeavoured, but fruitlessly, to establish their right to the succession. The 108 HISTORY OF SURREY. inheritance, however, from causes which it would be tedious and difficult to trace, would seem to have become divided. The Stockwell property descended to the two sons of the above Mr. Angell, of whom Benedict J. A. Angell, the elder, had the house and freehold lands attached; and W. B. Angell, the younger, the copyhold land, Avhich was about 10 acres.* For some years the house was occupied as an academy. The name of Mr. Angell is now kept iu remembrance by the Angell Town Estate, on the east side of the Brixton Eoad. Stockwell Green has now almost entirely lost its once rural character, and many of the surrounding houses have been altered or rebuilt since its far-famed ghost affrighted the neighbourhood " from its propriety " in 1772. This palpable imposition, to which nothing but extreme credulity could have given consequence, was the device of a female servant living with Mrs. Golding, an elderly lady, in a detached house, standing upon the eastern side of the green, and lying back from the road, at a short distance northward from a public-house bearing the sign of the Tower. The first manifestation of the ghost's presence — if such a phrase be admissible in speaking of a nonentity — occurred on the morning of Twelfth Day (Monday, January 6th) in the above year, when great alarm was excited by the fall and breakage of china, glass, plates, &c, in the back kitchen, and the removal and tumbling about of various articles of domestic use, without any visible cause. In her fright Mrs. Golding ran into a neighbour's house and fainted, and was afterwards bled. Meanwhile some of her property was brought into the same house, where similar occurrences took place in regard to the tumbling about and breaking of different articles. In two other houses at Eush Common, near Brixton Causeway, Avhere Mrs. Golding sought refuge during that "day and the following night, accompanied by her servant, the same consequences followed; and, in the consternation excited by these strange events, the harassed lady was indirectly accused of having been guilty of some atrocious crime, for the committal of which she was thus pursued by Providence. Indignant at this accusation, she returned to her own home, accompanied from Brixton Causeway by Mr. Pain the husband of her niece, at whose house much glass and chinaware had been destroyed. This was about six o'clock on the Tuesday morning, and, as the breakage and falling about of different articles were soon afterwards renewed, suspicions fell upon the maid servant, who was immediately discharged. No disturbances happened afterwards, and none had previously taken place where the girl had not been present. Notwithstanding the fair presumption of the girl's participation in these transactions, it is said that few * Manning and Bray, « Surrey," vol. hi. p. 499 ; and Denne, « Additions " to Ducarel and Nichols, in « Bibl Topo* Brit." 4to, p. 434, 1795. L "' 1 Sc?&6>. E-Radclyffe. -LONDON, VIRTUE &:CaL:rMiTS:D LAMBETH. '°9 at the time would admit of such a rational inference, but attributed the whole to witch craft. Lysons says that " great numbers of people of all ranks went to see the feats of this imaginary ghost, who caused the furniture to dance about the rooms in a very surprising manner." He adds (writing about 1791 or 1792), "Mrs. Golding and her daughter being both dead, there was an auction at the house a few months ago, when the dancing furniture sold at very extravagant prices." * On the western side of the green is St. Andrew's Church, formerly known as Stockwell Episcopal Chapel, towards the erection of which Archbishop Seeker contri buted £500 in 1767. It was greatly enlarged in 1810; and again in 1868, at a cost of £3,400. In the same year it was consecrated. Soon afterwards a considerable chapelry district, taken out of the new parishes of St. Mark's, Kennington, and St. Matthew's, Brixton, was assigned to the chapel. Towards the south is a Congregational chapel, and in Studley Eoad is a chapel for the use of the Wesleyans. The National and Parochial Schools were erected in 1818 for children of both sexes. Besides this school, Stockwell possesses a British School for boys and girls ; also a Board School, a Girls' Industrial Home, and a Training College in connection with the British and Foreign Schools Society. In New Park Eoad, and nearly equidistant between the Brixton and Clapham Eoads, is the Church op St. Michael, Stockwell, erected in 1841 from the designs of Mr. W. Sogers, and consecrated by the Bishop of Winchester. An ecclesiastical chapelry district, including a portion of South Lambeth, and comprising a population of about 6,000 persons, was assigned to it by her Majesty in Council in 1845. This edifice is a composition in the lancet or early English style of architecture. It was enlarged in 1864, and now contains sittings for about 1,400 persons. The central part of the prin cipal front (including the chief entrance) consists of an hexagonal tower of three stories, surmounted by a slender spire of the same form, which is supported by flying buttresses and crowned by a handsome finial. At each angle of the tower is a graduated buttress of four stages, with an ornamental pinnacle ; and in the front part of the second. story is a clock dial placed Avithin a triangular niche. At the northern and southern angles of the building are projecting porches, forming entrances to the aisles and galleries,, and above each is an oblong window flanked by ornamental buttresses. On each side * " Environs," vol. i. p. 329. See also " An Authentic, Candid, and Circumstantial Narrative of the astonish ing Transactions at Stockwell," &c, a small pamphlet published in 1772. In Hone's "Every-Day Book," vol. i., under January 7th, 1825, it is stated, on the authority of Mr. J. Brayfiekl of Camberwell (then lately deceased), that Ann Robinson, who was Mrs. Golding's servant, and with whom he became acquainted some years after these events, acknowledged herself to be the author of all the mischief, some being accomplished by the placing of long horse-hairs and wire under the crockery and glasses, and the rest by her own manual dexterity during the excitement and alarm arising from her contrivances among superstitious and ignorant people. r , o HISTORY OF SURREY. of the church are seven lancet windows between similar buttresses, and in the circular termination of the west end are others of the same character.* National, Infant, and Sunday Schools have been attached to this district. In Stockwell Private Eoad is the Small-Pox Hospital, which was opened in 1871 : it contains accommodation for about 100 patients. Adjoining is a Fever Hospital, with beds for about 170. The two institutions were established under the auspices of the Metropolitan District Asylum Board. The Stockwell Orphanage was established in 1869 by Mr. C. H. Spurgeon, pastor of the Metropolitan Tabernacle at Newington Butts. It is a large quadrangular building, standing on the Bedford estate, with an entrance by a broad avenue from the Clapham Eoad. It contains accommodation for 250 boys, who are fed, clothed, and educated. The expenses of the institution are about £5,000 per annum, and it is mainly dependent on voluntary contributions. At South Lambeth, a portion of which is in this district, in Lawn Place, is an Epis copal chapel, erected in 1794, and which accommodates about 600 persons. It is sur mounted by a bell turret, and contains a fine-toned organ. The patronage is vested in the proprietors and the Eector of Lambeth. Dunseord Lodge, with the extensive grounds attached to it, has been bought by the Eoman Catholic Bishop of Southwark, with the view, it is said, of converting it into the episcopal residence, with seminary attached. South Lambeth has at sundry times been the residence of many persons of eminent talents, learning, and information. The Tradescants and Elias Ashmole have already been noticed, and subjoined is a brief memoir of the learned Ducarel, who occupied a dwelling attached to the Tradescant mansion. At South Lambeth resided for many years the late Andrew Coltee Ducarel, LL.D., F.E.S., F.A.S., &c. This most laborious and learned antiquary was the eldest son of a gentleman descended from an ancient family settled at Caen, in Normandy, in which country he was born in 1713. His father, having emigrated to England, became a resident at Greenwich. He received part of his education at Eton School, and whilst there, in 1729, he was attended by Sir Hans Sloane, in consequence of an accident through which he lost the sight of one eye. Having entered as a gentleman commoner at St. John's College, Oxford, in 1731, he obtained the degree of Doctor of Laws in 1738, and in 1743 he became a member of the College of Doctors' Commons. He was elected a fellow of * Since the decease of Dr. D'Oyly in 184G a great change has taken place, under legal ecclesiastical arrangements, in the patronage of the several districts of Lambeth parish. LAMBETH. m the Society of Antiquaries in 1737, and he was one of the first fellows appointed under the charter of that body in 1755. He also belonged to the Antiquarian Societies of Cortona, Cassel, and Edinburgh. It is stated that Mr. Ducarel was disappointed in his wish to enter into holy orders, yet it does not appear in what manner. But though not a clergyman, he Avas intimately connected with the ecclesiastical establishment of this country, and in 1755 he was constituted Commissary of the Collegiate Hospital of St. Katharine, near the Tower; in 1758 Commissary of the diocese of Canterbury; and afterwards of the sub-deaneries of South Mailing, Pagham, and Tarring, in Sussex. He also held the office of Librarian to the Archbishops of Canterbury at Lambeth from the time of the primate Hutton, by whom he was appointed in 1757, until his death, which took place at his own residence at South Lambeth in 1785. The most important literary production of Dr. Ducarel is that entitled "Anglo- Norman Antiquities," illustrated with copper plates, 1767, in folio, being a much augmented and improved edition of his " Tour through Normandy," Avhich he had pub lished in 1754. He was also the author of treatises on the History and Antiquities of the Archiepiscopal Palaces of Croydon and Lambeth, and of the Eoyal Hospital of St. Katharine. His lesser publications and his contributions to the works of others manifest an extensive acquaintance with ecclesiastical antiquities. He seems to have been a most indefatigable compiler of indexes and catalogues, as may be inferred from his having made an index to all the Eegisters extant of the Archbishops of Canterbury from Peckham, in 1278, to Herring, who died in 1757, forming forty-seven vols, folio. He left many other valuable collections in manuscript, Avhich being sold by his nephew, Gerard Gustavus Ducarel, Esq., became the property of the late Mr. Gough (editor of the " Sepulchral Monuments of Great Britain "), and are now deposited in the Bodleian Library at Oxford. Some of his MSS. have also been purchased for the Library at Lambeth Palace. St. Stephen's Church, in St. Stephen's Terrace, South Lambeth, is in the decorated style of architecture, and was built by J. Barnett in 1861. The Church oe St. Silas, also in the same division of the parish, is a Mission Church, with accommodation for 800 Avorshippers. The Ecclesiastical Commissioners made a grant of £300 a year, and £1,500 towards building a vicarage, on condition that the Mission Church is enlarged. All Saints' Church, South Lambeth, stands in Priory Grove, Wandsworth Eoad, and was first opened as a temporary church in 1874. The permanent church, built from the designs of Mr. A. Bedborough in the Gothic style, was commenced in 1876. ii2 HISTORY OF SURREY. The Church oe St. Ann, in South Lambeth Eoad, was built in 1785, in the style then in vogue, and was known as South Lambeth Chapel. The edifice was restored in 1868, and consecrated in the following year. The Church of St. Mary the Less, Princes Eoad, South Lambeth. — This structure, constructed of brick, with stone dressings and ornamental appendages in the pointed style, was commenced from the designs of Francis Bedford, Esq., architect, in 1827, and it was consecrated by the Bishop of Winchester in 1828. The amount of the building contract was £7,634 10s. 4d. ; but this, of course, did not include the cost of the fittings, organ, and furniture. The chief expense was defrayed by the Commissioners for Building New Churches, but the cost of the organ, fittings, Sec., was supplied by a parish rate. By an order of Council a district extending from the banks of the Thames to Kenning ton Eoad was assigned to this church, now held as a perpetual curacy. The following have been the Incumbents .-—Charlton Lane, M.A., instituted in 1828 ; Stephen Pope, M.A., in 1832; Henry Scawen Plumptre, M.A., in 1833; Eobert Eden, M.A., in 1839; Eobert Gregory, M.A,, in 1853 ; and George H. W. Bromfield, M.A., in 1874. Nearly opposite this chapel is Lambeth Workhouse, a plain but extensive building of brick, now much enlarged. In Acre Lane, Brixton, is the Trinity Asylum, a substantia] brick building, erected in 1822 by the late Mr. Thomas Bailey, a chinaware and glass manufacturer, of St. Paul's Churchyard, and endowed by him for the future maintenance of twelve females of good character above fifty years of age. St. Matthew's Church, Brixton.— This was the first of the district churches erected for the increased population of Lambeth parish, though that of St. Mark was almost exactly contemporaneous. The foundation stones of both were laid by Dr. Manners Sutton, Archbishop of Canterbury, in 1822. This edifice was consecrated by Dr. Tomline, Bishop of Winchester, in 1824. St. Mark's was dedicated about the same time. St. Matthew's Church, of the Grecian-Doric order, was designed by Charles Porden, Esq., architect, and may be ranked with the very best of our modern classical compositions in that style. Its ground-plan is a parallelogram, measuring about 100 feet in length and 65 feet in breadth, and containing accommodation, in pews, seats, and galleries, for upwards of 1,900 persons, of whom about 1,000 have free sittings. The estimated cost of this structure (inclusive of commission and incidental expenses) was £15,340 13s. 7d. ; the amount ofthe building contract was £15,192 9s. The site occupied by the church and churchyard is near the rise, or rather at the junction, of the Tulse Hill and Brixton Hill Eoads. It is surrounded by a neat iron railing LAMBETH. H3 resting on a granite plinth, and interrupted at intervals by square pedestals of the same material. The body of the church is of light-coloured brick ; the dressings and ornamental parts are of stone. The west front consists of a noble portico composed of four massive columns, fluted, and two antee, raised on a stylobate of five steps, and supporting an enta blature and pediment characteristically enriched. The entablature is continued along the summit of the lateral walls, which are connected with the antse of the portico, and the latter is consequently closed at the side like the pronaos of a Grecian temple. Within the portico are three grand entrances, opening into a handsome vestibule, which communicates both with the interior of the church, and, by flights of stairs, with the galleries. The entrance doorways are constructed in accordance with ancient examples, the apertures increasing in width from the lintel to the base ; the lateral windows also, of which there are five on SOUTH-EAST VIEW OE ST. MATTHEW'S CHURCH. each side the church, are of a similar form. In the eastern front there is a great deviation from customary arrangements, the central part consisting of a projecting tower, surmounted by a steeple of two stories, and the recessed side divisions each containing an entrance porch, fronted by antse supporting an entablature. The tower, which is based on three granite steps, and rises to the general entablature of the building, is finished with a frieze and cornice, and pierced in front by a lofty window, crowned by a pediment. The steeple, though not inelegant, is deficient in height. The lower story has the form of a square temple of the Doric order, each face consisting of two columns fluted, and two antse, supporting an entablature : above this is a parapet, with breaks for the clock dials. The upper story consists of an octagonal temple, designed from that of the Cyrrhestes at Athens : this is crowned by a pyramidal roof, enriched with scroll foliage, and sur- VOL. HI. Q ii4 HISTORY OF SURREY. mounted by a plain stone cross. The general roof of the building is slated. Much elegance and skilful arrangement are displayed in the interior of the church, and the ornamental parts are designed with great chasteness, the classical style being preserved. Some handsome monuments and inscribed tablets of Avhite marble are affixed against the walls in this church. The steeple was struck with lightning for the second time in 1872, when the cross at the top was shivered into fragments. In the churchyard are numerous sepulchral memorials, and among them, on the south and east sides, are several tombs of classical design ; but the most remarkable monument of this class is a Grecian mausoleum erected at the north-west angle in 1825 by Mr. Henry Budd in memory of his father, Eichard Budd, Esq., who died in 1824. It is based on a square ground-plan, and is upwards of 25 feet in height, consisting of three principal stories, raised on a stylobate of granite steps, interrupted on the west front by the mausoleum entrance. Each story is variously enriched and adorned with emblematical sculpture in relief, including the coiled serpent, the Avinged globe, and the holy dove. The whole terminates in a square moulded pedestal, crowned by a knot of honeysuckles of similar form. Several new churches have been built in this parish. St. Jude's, East Brixton, in 1868, and St. Saviour's, Brixton Hill, in 1875, each with a vicarage complete, were both built from the designs of Mr. E. C. Eobins. St. Paul's, in Ferndale Eoad, and St. Catherine's, in Gresham Eoad, Loughborough Park, are both temporary churches. St. John's, Angell Town, was consecrated in 1853 : it is in the early English style of architecture, and has 1,200 sittings. Holy Trinity, Tulse Hill, is in the decorated style, and its Eegister dates from 1856. There are also chapels for Dissenters of almost all denominations, and several free schools and other charitable institutions. The City of London Freemen's Orphan School, founded in 1854 to provide for the maintenance and education of the orphans of the freemen of the City of London, has been erected in the pleasant locality of Shepherd's Lane. A hundred boys and fifty girls, orphans or fatherless, are provided for, under the direct control and management of the Court of Lord Mayor, Aldermen, and Commoners of the City of London. The Convict Prison for males stands in a healthy situation on the west side of Brixton Hill, at the distance of about 200 yards from the high-road. It was erected in 1820 for tho reception of offenders sentenced to hard labour either at the county assizes or sessions, or summarily convicted before a magistrate. It has, however, been recently bought by Government, and converted to its present purpose. St. Ann's Society Schools and Asylum, Brixton Hill. — In 1709 several benevolent LAMBETH. 115 persons in the ward of Aldersgate Within, in the City of London, established a society for educating and clothing children of necessitous parents of every nation who had been once in prosperity ; and in the same year they instituted a day school in St. Ann's Lane, Aldersgate, for thirty boys and thirty girls. The great utility of this establishment led to an increase of its funds, and in 1800 it was determined by its governors to open a country asylum for the entire maintenance and education of twenty additional boys, and Brixton Hill was chosen for the site of the new schools. Since that date girls also have been admitted. The present Asylum, erected in 1829, is a handsome building of three stories, surmounted by a cornice and plain parapet, but fronted centrally by an Ionic portico and pediment, ornamented by a sculpture of the royal arms. St. Ann's Society is under the especial patronage of the Queen and others of the royal family. The schools are supported by subscriptions, collections after sermons, and other voluntary contributions, together with the dividends of funded property. On Denmark Hill, on the west side, is an Episcopal chapel dedicated to St. Matthew, containing sittings for about 1,000 persons, and a good organ. It is now a perpetual curacy, the patronage being vested in trustees. St. Paul's Church, on Heme Hill, partly in this district, has been already described under Camberwell.* About half a mile from this eminence, on the western side of the road leading to Norwood, is Brockwell Hall, the seat of Mr. Joshua Blackburn. This estate, comprising nearly 60 acres, was purchased of Mr. Eichard Ogbourne in 1809 by John Blades, Esq., a glass manufacturer of Ludgate Hill, Sheriff of London in 1812. That gentleman pulled doAvn an old farmhouse which stood in the lower part of the grounds, and caused the present mansion to be erected on a more elevated spot from the designs of the late Mr. D. Eiddell Eoper, of Great Stamford Street. It is constructed of white brick, and commands a fine succession of diversified views over all the intermediate country, including the metropolis, to the hills of Hampstead and Highgate, Shooter's Hill, and Harrow-on-the-Hill. On the decease of Mr. Blades in 1829 this property devolved on the late Joshua Blackburn, Esq., who had married his eldest daughter, and who, by his will dated 1840, devised the reversion, after the decease of his widow, Mrs. Elizabeth Blackburn, to Joshua, their eldest son, who is the present owner. St. Luke's District, Norwood. — This district comprises the whole of the southern part of Lambeth parish, its distance, where it adjoins Croydon, being fully six miles and a half from the mother church. Anciently Norwood was an extensive tract of open wood land, receiving its distinctive appellation from lying to the north of the town of Croydon * See ante, p. 22. a 2 n6 HISTORY OF SURREY. and some portion of its area is in that parish. During the supremacy of Cromwell, about the middle of the seventeenth century, it was found on a survey to contain 830 acres of land, and to be chiefly covered by oak pollards, of which 9,200 were enumerated. Here formerly stood an aged tree called Vicar's Oak, at which Mr. Manning, after a reference to Aubrey, says "the five parishes of Battersea, Camberwell, Lambeth, Streatham, and Croydon meet." * During a long series of years Norwood was celebrated as the haunt of many of the gipsy tribe, who in the summer-time pitched their blanket tents beneath its umbrageous foliage, and from their reputed knowledge of futurity were often consulted by the young and credulous. This was particularly the case at the commencement of the present century, when it was customary among the labouring classes and servants of London to walk to Norwood on the Sunday afternoon to have their "fortunes told," and also to take refreshment at the Gipsy House, which long bore on its sign-post a painting of the deformed figure of Margaret Finch, the queen of the gipsies. " This remarkable person," says Lysons, " lived to the age of 109 years. After travelling," he continues, " over various parts of the kingdom, during the greater part of a century, she settled at Norwood ; whither her great age, and the fame of her fortune-telling, attracted numerous visitors. From a habit of sitting on the ground, with her chin resting on her knees, the sinews at length became so contracted, that she could not rise from that posture ; and after her death they were obliged to inclose her body in a deep square box."-f She was buried, as appears by the Eegister, at Beckenham, in Kent, on the 24th of October, 1740. The increase of houses and population, conjoined with magisterial interference, has long * "Surrey," vol. ii. p. 536. The credulity of Aubrey is well known. In his account of Croydon he says, " In this Parish hes the great Wood, called Norwood, belonging to the See of Canterbury, wherein was an ancient remark able Tree, called Vicar's Oak, where four Parishes meet in a Point. This Wood wholly consists of Oaks. There was one Oak which had Misselto, a Timber Tree, which was felled about 1678. Some Persons cut this Misselto, for some Apothecaries in London, and sold them a Quantity for Ten Shillings each time, and left only one Branch remaining for more to sprout out. One fell lame shortly after; soon after each of the others lost an Eye, and he that fell'd the Tree (tho' warned of these misfortunes of the other Men) would, notwithstanding, adventure to do it, and shortly after broke his Leg ; as if the Hamadryades had resolved to take an ample Revenge for the injury done to that sacred and venerable Oak." " I cannot omit here," he continues, " taking Notice of the great Misfortunes in the family of the Earl of Winchelsea, who at Eastwell in Kent, felled down a most curious Grove of Oaks, near his noble Seat, and gave the first Blow with his own Hands. Shortly after, his Countess died in her Bed suddenly, and his eldest Son, the Lord Maid stone, was killed at Sea by a Cannon bullet." — (Aubrey, Surrey, vol. ii. pp. 33, 34.) In the old Registers of St. Mary, Lambeth, the foUowing entries of payment occur : — 1583. " When we went our perambulation at Vicar's Oke, in Rogation week, paid 2s. 6d."— 1704. " Paid for 100 lbs. of Cheese, spent at Vicar's Oke 8s." + " Environs," vol. iv. p. 301. The Gipsy House is said to have been first hcensed in the reign of James I. : it is now a respectable inn. That the neighbourhood was resorted to by gipsies as remotely as the reign of Charles II. is evident from the subjoined entry in Pepys's " Diary," under the date of August 11th, 1668 : — " This afternoon my Wife and Mercer, and Deb. went with Pelling to see the Gipsies at Lambeth, and have their fortunes told ; but what they did, I did not enquire." — (Vol. ii. p. 252, 4to edit.) In the summer of 1815 the gipsies of Norwood were " apprehended as vagrants, and sent in three coaches to prison." — Hoyland's Gipsies, p. 180. LAMBETH. il7 driven the gipsies from their haunts amid the sylvan scenery of Norwood. The name of this wandering race, however, is still kept in remembrance by Gipsy Hill, where a railway station and rows of houses have now been erected. This picturesque district may be described as comprising the three divisions of Upper, Lower, and South Norwood, the first being situated upon the table-land of Westow Hill, and the two latter adjacent to St. Luke's Church. The locality, however, is being fast built over, and has already seven or eight churches, besides a large number of Dissenting chapels and philanthropic institutions. The road through Camberwell and Dulwich to Upper Norwood leads by Dulwich Wood to the broad promenade fronting the Crystal Palace, which is on a level with the cross at the top of St. Paul's Cathedral, and to the upper part of Westow Hill, whence there is — or was before the erection of the Crystal Palace — an uninterrupted panoramic prospect for many miles around. Hill and valley, churches, seats and villas, highly cultivated fields and gardens, diversify the scenery in all directions ; whilst on the north the river Thames, with portions of the metropolis, the sister hills of Hampstead and Highgate in the background, and the blue haze beyond, give a richness and grandeur to the view approaching to magnificence. The Crystal Palace. — Although the grounds of the Crystal Palace and some part of the building itself are situated in Sydenham, in the county of Kent, the greater portion lies within the "boundary of Penge, and consequently within the parish of Battersea ; still, as the rapid growth of Upper Norwood from an obscure village to a busy and thriving town has been mainly owing to the presence of the Crystal Palace in its neighbourhood, a short account of this edifice may not be out of place in these pages. At the close of the Great Exhibition in Hyde Parkin 1851 it was decided that the novel and beautiful structure of iron and glass in which it had been held should be transferred to some place in the outskirts of London, and there re-erected, to remain as a permanent place of recreation and intellectual enjoyment. The broad sloping ground lying between the Brighton Eailway and Dulwich Wood, nearly 300 acres in extent, was secured ; the rebuilding of the edifice was commenced in 1852 ; and it was opened by her Majesty in June, 1854. The building itself, which is constructed almost entirely of iron and glass, covers nearly 16 acres of ground. It is considerably larger than its prototype in Hyde Park ; and although the same materials were used in its construction, it differs from it very considerably in its formation. Instead of one transept, as in the old building, the new Crystal Palace had originally three ; that at the north end, however, together with a considerable part of the building adjacent, was destroyed by fire in 1866, and up to the , . 3 HISTORY OF SURREY. present time (1879) has been only partially rebuilt. The nave is covered with an arched roof, raising it 44 feet higher than the nave in Hyde Park, and the transepts have also similar roofs. The height of the central transept, from the garden front to the top of the louvres, is 208 feet, or 6 feet higher than the Monument at London Bridge. The interior of the building, which is surrounded by galleries, contains various industrial, architectural, and fine art courts, which are interspersed with groups of statuary and fountains, together with tropical and other plants. In the central transept are the theatre and the Handel Festival Orchestra, the latter being capable of seating 4,000 performers : its diameter is double that of the dome of St. Paul's Cathedral. The gardens and grounds are beautifully laid out with walks, flower beds, fountains, statuary, &c, and are so artificially disposed as to make them appear even more extensive than they really are. The main features in the grounds are the fountains and water-works ; these are on a most elaborate and perfect scale, and are said to surpass in their completeness and design any other display in the world, even including the famous fountains of Versailles. There are two railway stations adjoining the Palace, which place it in direct communication with the eastern and western districts of the metropolis. At the northern end of the promenade mentioned above are some reservoirs in connection with the Lambeth Water Works. The Eoyal Normal College and Academy of Music for the Blind, in Westow Street, Upper Norwood, was instituted in 1874 for the purpose of affording " a thorough general and musical education to the youthful blind of both sexes, who possess the requisite talent, so as to qualify them for self-maintenance." The Eoman Catholic Orphanage of Our Lady, Central Hill, Upper Norwood, was founded in 1848, and is under the management of a religious community of ladies. The institution contains about 320 orphan and destitute children, and likewise children of respectable parents, but in reduced circumstances, who are lodged, fed, and clothed until they are fit to be placed in situations as domestic servants, for which they are specially trained. The Orphanage, which is of Gothic architecture and stands in spacious grounds, was built in 1855, and has since been considerably enlarged. The North Surrey District School, in Anerley Eoad, is another of the many indus trial establishments in the neighbourhood. The institution, Avhich is very complete in its arrangements, covers more than 50 acres of ground, and it provides the means of industrial training for upwards of 1,000 destitute children. In proceeding through Upper Norwood the eye is arrested by the rising spire of All Saints' Church, on Beulah Hill, erected in 1845 for the use of the increasing population of Croydon parish, which will be hereafter described. It is an ornament to this neighbour- LAMBETH. 119 hood, and from its elevation forms a conspicuous object for many miles around. The land on the northern side of the hill has been in a great degree cleared of its wood, and brought into cultivation and largely built upon; but towards the south the acclivities are still partially covered with oak. Here, near the lower part of the hill, was the Beulah Spa, formerly a place of recreative entertainment. The estate comprised about 26 acres of enclosed woodland, through which carriage drives and winding avenues were cut, and the grounds ornamentally laid out, under the direction of the late Mr. Decimus Burton, The spring, or well, from which the waters were drawn was in repute for its sanative qualities among the country-people long before the opening of these grounds in 1831. In Hamlet Eoad, Upper Norwood, is St. Paul's Church, which was erected in 1866. It contains sittings for about 1,100 persons. Christ Church, Gipsy Hill, was built in 1867, and is in the early French style of architecture. The Church of St. John the Evangelist, Auckland Eoad, Upper Norwood, dates from 1875, and is in the early English style. St. Mark's, South Norwood, was erected in 1852 : it also is in the early English style. This district, and likewise that of Holy Trinity adjoining, the church of which was erected in 1867, was formed from the civil parish of Croydon. St. Luke's Church. — This edifice, in the Grecian style, was built from the designs of Mr. Francis Bedford, architect, and forms the base-line of a triangular plot of ground railed in as a cemetery at the junction of two roads. It was commenced in the latter part of 1822, but, from various alterations made in the interior, was not completed until 1825, when it was consecrated by the late Dr. George Pretyman Tomline, Bishop of Winchester. The estimate for building was £12,387 8s. 3d. ; but nearly £6,000 above that amount was afterwards expended in the alterations and fittings-up. On the north this district is bounded by that of Brixton, on the east by Knight's Hill and the manor of Dulwich, on the south by the parishes of Croydon and Streatham, and on the west by Streatham. At a short distance from St. Luke's Church, on the road leading towards Brixton, is an elegant pointed archway forming the entrance to the South Metropolitan Cemetery, otherwise called the Norwood Cemetery, which occupies about 40 acres of ground, chiefly lying on the north-and north-west acclivities of a commanding eminence, upon whieh the chapels stand, and from Avhich the views of Norwood, Heme Hill, Nunhead, and adjacent country are very fine. Here are two chapels, erected from the designs of the late Sir William Tite, the archi tect of the Eoyal Exchange. They are both in the pointed style of architecture that 120 HISTORY OF. SURREY. prevailed in the reign of Henry VI., and are respectively used for celebrating the burial service according to the ritual of the Church of England and for Dissenters. Near the middle of the floor of the Episcopal chapel is an opening into the catacombs, though concealed by a hearse, or catafalque, about 8 feet long, 5 feet high, and 4 feet wide. The sides of the hearse, which are fixed, are hung with black velvet in festoons, wrought with a deep fringe and tassels. The central part is sustained by an iron frame attached to the pipe of an hydraulic machine placed in the vaults, and forms a bier. Upon this, by means of steel rollers, every coffin brought for interment here is slowly and silently moved to its proper situation over the aperture whilst the minister is reading the burial service. On his coming to the solemn words, " We commit this body to the earth," the bier and coffin sink gradually down, the pall being left above, and still concealing the opening. Before the conclusion of the service the bier slowly rises, and again fills up the space, but the coffin is no more seen : it has been consigned to its final resting-place. The arrangement of the catacombs beneath this chapel will be best understood from the accompanying diagram, in which the middle avenue and transverse passages are duly indicated. The lines show the number of arches in each division, the entire number being ninety-six. Within every arch are twenty-four recesses for coffins, and consequently 2,304 interments will take place in these vaults before any additional catacombs are required. Every arch is 16 feet high, and 9. feet in width. The letter a in the woodcut marks the space immediately below the catafalque in the chapel, by means of the bier connected with which the coffins are let down. The Jews' Hospital, in Lower Norwood, was originally established in 1806 "for the maintenance of the aged poor, and the industrial training of friendless children." The institution was removed hither in 1863, when the present building was erected from the designs of Mr. Tillot. In Portland Eoad, South Norwood, is the Jewish Convalescent Home, founded in 1869 in memory of Judith, Lady Montefiore. The School of the Westmoreland Society was instituted in 1853 for children of Westmoreland parents residing in and within seventy-five miles of London. St. Saviour's Almshouse, or hospital for the poor of the parish of St. Saviour, South wark, in Hamilton Eoad, Lower Norwood, was erected in 1863, in consequence of the site E 1 . 1 .,,„. — - j 1 . ¦ , I. i [ W \\""" CHURCH CATACOMBS AT NOBWOOD. LAMBETH. 12 J of the original building being required for the Charing Cross Eailway. The almshouse consists of thirty-eight dwellings, with a chapel and lodge, the inmates, male and female, being allowed lis. and 9s. per week respectively. Numerous villas, designed with much elegance, and rows of first-rate houses have been erected in the Norwood district, the picturesque beauty of the neighbourhood possessing many attractions for the affluent and the amateur of natural scenery. Several places of Avorship have also been built for the accommodation of separatists ; and the Anabaptists, Independents, Wesleyans, and Catholics have each a chapel. There are likewise several schools, both on the National and the British principle, and also in connection with the London School Board ; and in Elder Eoad is an Industrial Institution for the Infant Poor of Lambeth. St. John's District, Waterloo Eoad. — There is yet to be described another district of those into which the extensive parish of Lambeth has been ecclesiastically divided, namely, that of St. John, which comprehends a large portion of the tract long known as Lambeth Marsh, and also the recently erected chapelry of All Saints. The general boundaries of this district, as fixed by an order in Council held at Carlton House in 1824, are as follows : — Commencing at the middle of Westminster Bridge, on the west and north-west, an imaginary boundary-line passes through the middle of the river Thames and Waterloo Bridge to a short distance beyond the latter, and thence turning southward into the Commercial Eoad, it adjoins, on the north-east and east, the parish of Christ Church ; on the south-east a common sewer divides it from St. George's, Southwark ; and on the south-west and south it adjoins the mother parish of St. Mary, its general southern line from Mead Place being the Westminster Bridge Eoad.* Long within memory much of this ground was a swampy marsh, yet still presenting divers verdant and rural spots studded with rows of pollard willows, where small tea gardens and other places of recreation and amusement were opened for the solace of those who in fine weather strolled hitherward on Sundays and holidays. But now everything is changed ; crowded streets, wharfs, manufactories, &c, cover the land, and scarcely any part of the metropolis is fraught with a more abundant population. This is particularly observable in the great line of thoroughfare called Lambeth Marsh and the New Cut, which connects the two main roads into Surrey leading from the bridges of Westminster and Blackfriars. In consequence of there not being any regular markets * Under the same order in Council districts were allotted to the newly erected churches of St. Mark, Kennington ¦ St. Matthew, Brixton ; and St. Luke, Norwood, all of which, with this of St. John, had been commenced about the same time, under the patronage of the Church Commissioners appointed under an Act of 58 George III. cap. 45. (London Gazette, March 29th, 1825, pp. 544—547.) VOL. III. B 122 HISTORY OF SURREY. in this vicinity this thoroughfare has become the great retail mart for provisions, clothing, shoes, household furniture, tools, books, and other articles of domestic use. Independently of the shops which line both sides of the way, hundreds of stalls for the sale of vegetables, fruits, flowers, sweetmeats, &c, are pitched in the open street, and contribute to the bustling activity of this busy neighbourhood. St. John's Church was erected from the designs and under the superintendence of F. Bedford, Esq., architect. It stands in a large open space on the eastern side of Waterloo Eoad, and separated from it by a neat iron railing. The site was a swamp and horse-pond, and great labour was necessary in order to secure a good foundation, which was at length accomplished by deep piling. The work was commenced in 1822, and in 1823 the first stone was laid by Dr. Charles Manners Sutton, Archbishop of Canterbury. In 1824 the church was consecrated in honour of St. John the Evangelist by Dr. George Pretyman Tomline, Bishop of Winchester. The architect's estimate for its erection, including incidental expenses and commission, was £18,000; but several thousands were afterwards expended in the fittings-up and various appendages. This is a capacious edifice of brick, with stone dressings and a portico of stone. Its ground-plan is a parallelogram, 120 feet in length and 67 feet in width. The entire front on this side consists of a hexastyle portico of the Grecian-Doric order, with an entablature and pediment, the former being continued round the building. The columns are fluted, and the frieze is filled with a series of sculptured chaplets of myrtle instead of the proper characteristics of the order. Beneath the portico are five entrances leading into the vestibules of the church, galleries, and belfry. Behind the portico a somewhat lofty steeple, in four stories, rises from the roof, and terminates in an obelisk surmounted by a ball and cross. The lower story, which is rusticated, contains the clock dials. The next story, of the Ionic order, has two columns on each face, with antaB at the angles, and a louvre window in each intercolumniation. This division encloses an excellent peal of eight bells, of which the tenor bell is 1,900 lbs. in weight.* The third story, from which rises the pedestal that supports the obelisk, is of the same general design as that last described, but of diminished proportions. On the north and south sides of the church a plain course of stone divides each elevation into two stories, and each story contains six windows, the lowermost range being nearly square, and the uppermost oblong : the large eastern window, which is surmounted by an entablature and pediment, is also of the latter form. The interior, as in nearly all our modern churches of Grecian design, appears like a * The cost of the beUs and turret clock was defrayed by a pubhc subscription. LAMBETH. I23 large single apartment, the space being almost wholly unbroken except by the galleries, which, supported by columns of the Doric order, are very capacious. The piers between the windows are faced by pilasters of the Ionic order, connected with an entablature immediately below the ceiling, ornamented by a rich honeysuckle moulding. The ceiling is horizontal and panelled in recessed squares, in each of which is an expanded flower. In the western gallery is a good organ. In an arched recess on either side, ranging over the gallery stairs, are seats for the district schools. The whole number of sittings in this church is about 2,000, of which upwards of one-third are free. Among the few monuments here, at the east end, is one erected by subscription of the inhabitants in commemoration of Thomas Lett, Esq., who died in 1830. He was a great benefactor to this church and a magistrate of the county. It exhibits a figure of Justice, leaning with one arm upon a pedestal, bearing an urn, and holding a balance with the other. On a tablet of white marble, inscribed in memory of James Thos. Goodenham Eodwell, Esq., who died in 1825, is a sculpture in relief of an angel kneeling by a sarcophagus. On another, in memory of Edward Vere, Esq., is sculptured a cap of maintenance, surmounted by a boar passant. Here also is a small marble tablet com memorative of the late comedian, Eobert William Elliston, who died in 1831, and was interred in a vault beloAv the church. The churchyard contains some fine plane-trees, and steps were being taken in 1876 to lay it out as a garden, and make it available for the purposes of recreation. Adjoining the churchyard, in Church Street, are the District National Schools, erected about fifty years ago. This street leads to what was known as the Old Halfpenny Hatch, where a private footway, bordered by pollard willows, led through some garden grounds nearly to Christ Church, and for a long series of years formed the nearest thoroughfare from Lambeth to Bankside and London Bridge. In the Waterloo Eoad, between St. John's Church and the New Cut, are two Dissenting chapels, namely, Zion Chapel, belonging to the Independents, and New Jerusalem Temple (as formerly called), built by the followers of Emmanuel Swedenborg, but eventually transferred to a Baptist congregation. The former is a plain brick edifice, raised in 1822, and containing accommodation for about 1,000 persons; the latter, also of brick, was built a few years afterwards, and has a Gothic front. Nearly opposite St. John's Church is the London terminus of the South- Western Eailway, together with the Waterloo Junction station of the South-Eastern Eailway. At a short distance from St. John's Church northwards is the Eoyal Universal Infirmary for Children and Women, a neat edifice, of brick with a stone portico, built r2 124 HISTORY OF SURREY. from a design gratuitously furnished by D. Laing, Esq., the architect of the Custom House, and first opened in 1824, when the business of the institution was removed from St. Andrew's Hill, Doctors' Commons. This charity Avas founded by the late Dr. J. B. Davis in 1810, and many thousand patients have since participated in its benefits. It is chiefly maintained by yearly subscriptions. The Duke of Kent assisted in founding the Infirmary, and the Queen has long been an annual subscriber ; and the Prince of Wales, on whose estate, as Duke of Cornwall, the hospital stands, has allowed the committee to purchase the freehold on advantageous terms. In 1875 the building was enlarged and considerably improved. Waterloo Bridge. — This noble structure, in which grandeur of design is united with great professional skill, has excited the admiration of many scientific foreigners, as well as that of the fellow-citizens of its highly talented architect. Canova, the late celebrated Italian sculptor, and most esteemed connoisseur in works of art of modern times, regarded it as the "finest bridge in Europe," and, in expressing this opinion, he added that "it alone was worth coming from Eome to London to see." Waterloo Bridge crosses the Thames at a nearly equidistant point from the bridges of Blackfriars and Westminster. Mr. Ealph Dodd, the original projector of a tunnel under the river and of other works of a similar nature, appears to have been first engaged as engineer on this undertaking, but before much progress had been made the committee of management applied to the late John Eennie, Esq., and from his designs the bridge was built. It was erected at the expense of private individuals, incorporated by an Act of Parliament passed in 1809, under the style of the " Strand Bridge Company," and empowered to raise by subscription the sum of £500,000 in transferable shares of £100 each, and the additional sum of £300,000 by the issue of new shares, or by mortgage secured on the property, if it were found requisite. In 1813 the company obtained a new Act of Parliament, authorising a further augmentation of the funds in the same manner to the amount of £200,000 ; and a third parliamentary enactment in 1816 conferred new powers on the proprietors, and ordained that the Strand Bridge should thenceforth be called Waterloo Bridge. The architect furnished two designs, one for a bridge with seven arches, and another for one with nine, the latter of which was approved of by the com mittee, and carried into execution. The first stone was laid in 1811. Instead of using caissons in building the piers, the foundations were laid in coffer dams, made by driving into the bed of the river three concentric rows of piles at the distance of about 3 feet 6 inches apart. The ground was chiefly clay covered by a stratum of gravel, and into this were driven beech and elm piles 12 inches in diameter, and about LAMBETH. 125 20 feet in length, to form the foundations of the piers, and between these piles was rammed in, to the depth of 18 inches, Kentish ragstone laid in liquid mortar. The heads of the piles being sawed off, so as to present a perfectly level surface, timber sills, or bearing piles, were fastened to it transversely and longitudinally ; to these was secured by long spikes a flooring of six-inch plank ; and upon this was laid the first course of masonry. The faces of the piers and abutments, and also of the arches, consist of blocks of Cornish granite, and the interiors of Craigleith and Derbyshire stone, every course being grouted with liquid mortar ; and, to strengthen the masonry, four chain-bars of iron were worked transversely into each arch. The arches are all semi- ellipses, of 120 feet span, with an elevation of 35 feet, leaving a height of 30 feet above the surface of the water at spring tides, and forming a clear water-way of 1,080 feet. The piers are 30 feet in breadth at the base, and 20 at the springing of the arches. Their dimensions in the direction of the breadth of the bridge are 87 feet each, terminating towards the stream in angles formed by the meeting of curved lines, and upon their extremities stand two three-quarter columns of the Grecian-Doric order, supporting an entablature which forms the exterior of a rectangular recess, or balcony. The sides of the bridge are defended by an open balustrade with a frieze and cornice. The carriage road is 28 feet wide, and each foot-pavement is 7 feet in width. The entire length ofthe bridge from the extremities of the abutments is 1,380 feet. The approaches, except at the entrance to the Strand, are 70 feet wide, and are carried over a series of semicircular arches, 16 feet each in span; that on the Strand side is 310 feet in length, and that on the Surrey side 766 feet long, formed by thirty-nine semicircular arches, and an elliptical arch of 26 feet span over the Narrow Wall Eoad, and an embank ment about 165 yards in length. In order to complete the approaches on the Surrey side the company were obliged to obtain a loan of £60,000 from Government on a mortgage of the tolls, which have never produced a remunerating interest to the shareholders. During the closure of Westminster Bridge against carriages the traffic over this thoroughfare was greatly increased.* This bridge was publicly opened with great ceremony by the Prince Eegent on the 18th of June, 1817, being the anniversary of the battle of Waterloo, fought in 1815.T A toll of one halfpenny was charged for foot-passengers over the bridge, * After Westminster Bridge had been extensively repaired, the carriage-way, which had remained closed from the 15th of August, was again opened on December 24th, 1846. + In the forenoon a detachment of Horse Guards posted themselves on the bridge, and about three o'clock a discharge of two hundred and two guns, in commemoration of the number of cannon taken from the French, announced the arrival cf the Prince Regent and other illustrious personages, who came in barges from the Earl of Liverpool's house at Whitehall. The royal party passed through the centre arch and landed on the Surrey side, where a procession was formed, headed by I26 HISTORY OF SURREY. and twopence for cabs, &c. ; but in 1878-9 the bridge was bought over by the Metro politan Board of Works, and the tolls were abolished. The Hungerford and Lambeth Suspension Bridge.— This was a chain foot-bridge, extending across the Thames from Hungerford Market, Avhich occupied the site of the railway terminus at Charing Cross, to the opposite shore in the district of St. John, at Lambeth. It was erected pursuant to an Act of Parliament which received the royal assent in 1836 (6 & 7 William IV. cap. 133), constituting the proposers a body corporate under the style and title of "The Hungerford and Lambeth Suspension Foot-bridge Company," and empowering them to raise the sum of £80,000 in 3,200 shares of £25 each, and the further sum of £26,000 by mortgage, if necessary for the completion of the work. The bridge was constructed under the superintendence of Sir I. K. Brunei, chief engineer, and Mr. Pritchard Baly, resident engineer. The expense of the masonry and brickwork was about £63,000, and that of the ironwork £17,000. From its mode, of construction and height above the river this bridge had a light and airy appearance, strongly contrasting with the massive pile of Waterloo, in its immediate vicinity. The platform, or pathway, sustained by chains passing over piers, formed three reverted arches, the central arch being 676 feet in span, and the lateral arches 333 feet each. The towers on the piers which sustained the middle arch rose to the height of about 80 feet above high-water mark. The entire length between the abutments in which the end chains were strongly embedded Avas 1,352 feet, and its breadth 14 feet. The towers were of brick, designed in what has been termed the Italian style of architecture. Through these passed four series of broad chains, two on each side of the platform. This bridge was first opened to the public on May Day, 1845, without any particular ceremony. The toll for crossing it was a halfpenny. In the same year a new Act of Parliament was obtained to amend their former Acts, &c, and alter the company's name to that of the " Charing Cross Bridge Company." On the formation of the West-end terminus of the South-Eastern Eailway at Charing Cross in 1863, the suspension bridge was superseded by the present railway bridge, and removed to Clifton, near Bristol, where it now spans the Avon. The railway bridge consists of nine spans, or openings, and is supported by cylinders sunk into the bed of the river, and also by the piers and abutments of the old suspension bridge, which were left the Prince Regent, with the Duke of York on his right and the Duke of Wellington on his left, in the uniform of field- marshals, and accompanied by a train of noblemen, ministers, and members of both Houses of Parliament. On reaching the Middlesex side of the bridge the company re-embarked and returned to Whitehall. LAMBETH. 127 standing. Besides carrying the lines of railway, this bridge has on each side a footpath for passengers, who pass over for a halfpenny toll. In 1785 the Lambeth Water Works were established " on part of the Belvidere wharf," * under the provisions of an Act of Parliament granted to a company of share holders (25 George III. cap. 89), for making " Water-works on the Narrow Wall, Lambeth, to supply Lambeth and parts adjacent with water taken from the Thames." The water was at first drawn from the borders of the stream, but its foulness having occasioned much complaint, the company subsequently obtained leave from the City of London (as Conservators of the Thames) to procure their supply from the central part of the river. This was done by means of a conduit pipe, or tunnel, of cast iron, 42 inches in diameter, through which the water flowed at all times of the tide into a well in the company's premises on the shore, from which formerly it was forced by steam-engines into the service pipes. Still further to improve the quality of the water, the company in 1834 obtained another Act of Parliament, to enable them to purchase land for constructing reservoirs for filtration, &c. This they did on Brixton Hill and Streatham, and by mains laid from Narrow Wall the water was forced by engine-power into the reservoirs. In 1848 an Act of Parliament was passed, enabling the Lambeth Water Works Company to abandon their source of supply from the Thames at this point, and to take water from the pure stream of the river at Ditton, some twenty-three miles higher up the river, and far beyond the reach of the tide. Narrow Wall (now the Belvidere Eoad) was an ancient embankment and trackway running parallel with the Thames, and so called to distinguish it from Broadwall, another embankment extending southwards from the river, and separating the parish of Christ Church from Lambeth Marsh. Narrow Wall, Vine Street, and Cornwall Eoad are all noticed in views of London delineated in Queen Elizabeth's reign, but no houses seem connected with either avenue, except a few in and about Vine Street. The lower part of this street, in which are several very old and ruinous wooden houses, is now from 8 to 10 feet below the level of the adjacent streets, the ground having been greatly raised in all this part of the Marsh. * This wharf derived its name from the Belvidere House and Gardens, a place of pubhc entertainment which occupied this spot in Queen Anne's reign, and would seem from its situation to have been immediately adjacent to Cuper's Garden (see ante, pp. 78-9), the site of which is now crossed by the Waterloo Road. Dr. Rawlinson, in his additions to Aubrey, imagines the Belvidere Gardens, which (writing about 1719) he mentions as "lately sold by Mr. England to Mr. Theobald," to have been the site of a celebrated saw-mill erected during the supremacy of Oh ver Cromwell, and with the contrivance of which the Protector was so well pleased, that notwithstanding the clamours and objections of workmen surveyors, &c, he had it confirmed by an Act of Parhament. (Aubrey's " Surrey," vol. v. pp. 277, 278.) 128 HISTORY OF SURREY. Near King's Arms Stairs, at Narrow Wall, extensive premises Avere occupied during a period of almost sixty years by Coade and Seeley's manufactory of burnt artificial stone (or terra-cotta), said to have originated with the elder Bacon, an eminent sculptor, but first established on this spot by Mrs. Coade in 1769.* It afterwards became widely celebrated, much of the statuary, &c, being executed from Bacon's models and designs. About 1827 the manufacture was removed to the neighbourhood of Tottenham Court Eoad. Stamford Street Unitarian Chapel is a capacious building. Its front consists of an extended classical portico of the Doric order, exhibiting six massive columns, fluted, supporting an entablature and pediment. In Stamford Street are the Schools of the Benevolent Society of St. Patrick, an institution commenced in 1784, and remodelled in 1786, when it was resolved that the objects of the society should be restricted to the establishment of schools in and near London, for the education of poor children born of Irish parents in and near the metro polis. Shortly afterwards, the surviving members of the Irish Charitable Society, originally established in 1704, but which had been long in abeyance, proposed to add their stock, about £1,090, to the funds of the Benevolent Society, on the condition that the relief bestowed should always be conferred without regard to the particular religious tenets of the objects of their benevolence, and their proposal was readily agreed to. This society has been extensively patronised. Its funded property in 1846 amounted to £30,600 3 per cents., towards which £3,780 had been contributed by George IV., £890 by William IV, £320 by the late Queen-Dowager Adelaide, and £825 by her Majesty Queen Victoria, under whose patronage the society is now supported. Its present annual income is about £2,000. During many years the children were placed in different schools throughout tho metropolis, but in 1815 the funds became sufficient to enable the committee to erect the present building. It consists of a central division, including committee-rooms and other apartments, and two low wings containing separate schoolrooms for the boys and girls. The general management of the society is vested in a president, vice-presidents, a treasurer, and other officers. In York Eoad is the General Lying-in Hospital (formerly the Westminster Hospital), a most beneficent institution, deriving its origin from the meritorious exertions of Dr. John * The noble monument of the Earl of Chatham in Westminster Abbey was one of the productions of Bacon. He died in 1799, and in a brief memoir of his life pubhshed in the Gentleman's Magazine for that year (vol. lxix. p. 808) is this statement :— " It was during Mr. B.'s apprenticeship that he formed a design of making Statues in artificial stone, winch he afterwards perfected." LAMBETH. "9 Leake, an eminent physician and practitioner in midwifery. In 1765 he purchased some ground in the Westminster Bridge Eoad, Avhere the Hospital was first built ; and when the building was raised he generously assigned over his interest to the governors for the benefit of the charity. This institution was incorporated in 1830, about which time the present structure was erected. It is a handsome, spacious, and well-built edifice, exhibiting in the centre of the principal front a recessed portico of four columns of the Ionic order, approached by a flight of steps, and forming the main entrance. In-patients are received from all parts of the kingdom, chiefly the wives of industrious artisans and of poor soldiers and seamen ; even necessitous single women who can produce satisfactory testi monials of general good conduct, and appear to be real objects of commiseration, are admitted here, but this indulgence is in every case restricted to the first offspring of misconduct. The delivery of married women (with professional advice and medicine), as out-patients, at their own habitations in the metropolis and its environs, forms a branch of this charity. The York Eoad Congregational Chapel is a neat edifice of brick, designed in the lancet style, but with duplicated windows. In front is a recessed entrance, and below the chapel are schools both for boys and girls. All Saints' Church, York Street. — Though chiefly designed in the Anglo-Norman style, All Saints' displays much originality in arrangements and decoration, and was built at the cost of £6,400, Mr. William Eogers being the architect. The first stone was laid in 1844, and the building was finished in 1845. The principal entrance was originally in the main thoroughfare known as Lower Marsh. This entrance opened into a long corridor from a recessed arch, decorated with zigzag and other mouldings, wrought in the basement story of a well-proportioned campanile tower of three stories, 80 feet in height, surmounted by a slender spire. The doorway in the lower story and the headings and decorations of the middle and upper stories are semicircular : the upper story is finished by a pierced parapet, with ornamental pinnacles at the angles. The body of the church, which is of brick, stands some yards back, behind the houses, and the entrance is now in York Street. The interior consists of nave and aisles, terminated by a recessed angular chancel. The nave is on each side separated from the aisles by five lofty iron columns, cast to resemble the clustered shafts of the lancet style : from these spring semicircular stilted arches, enriched with ornaments of an arabesque character. The roof is of timber framework, stained to resemble oak. On each side of the church, in the lower part, are eight long semicircular-headed windows : a similar number are in the clerestory. At the west end is a handsome rose VOL. III. s i3o HISTORY OF SURREY. window, and beneath it a range of narrow apertures which admit light to that part of the nave. The recess forming the chancel is lighted, in a subdued but harmonious tone, by a semi-dome skylight filled with stained glass. Attached to the church in York Street are All Saints' National and Infant Schools, which were opened in 1854. The last remains of a large old mansion traditionally called Bishop Bonner's House, which stood at a little distance from the Marsh Gate, and part of Avhich had been occupied as a boarding school, were taken down in 1823. There is no certain proof, however, that it had ever been inhabited by Bonner, though in support of the tradition a passage has been cited from Strype's " Memorials of Archbishop Cranmer," stating that on March 24th, 1537-8, Henry Holbeach was consecrated Suffragan Bishop of Bristol, " in the Bishop of London's Chapel, in the said bishop's house, situate in Lambeth Marsh." But in this instance Strype was in error, and, as he afterwards acknowledged, had inadvertently written London instead of Eochester, the ordination having really taken place at La Place, the house of John Hilsey, Bishop of Eochester, near Lambeth Palace. The Bishops of London never had a residence at Lambeth.* The Eoyal Cobourg, now the Victoria, Theatre. — This capacious structure, which stands at the south intersection of the Waterloo Bridge Eoad with the New Cut, had its origin from a disagreement between Thomas West, Esq., the ground landlord of the Eoyal Circus (now the Surrey Theatre) and Messrs. Jones and Dunn, the leaseholders of that establishment, the latter deeming it more advantageous to erect a new theatre than to pay an exorbitant rent as yearly tenants. Fixing, therefore, upon the site of the present building, then an open field, and being joined by Mr. Serres, jun. (son of Dominic Serres, an eminent marine painter), they obtained, by his interest, the patronage of the late Princess Charlotte of Wales and her consort Leopold, Prince of Saxe Cobourg, and the * Vide Denne's " Addenda," &c. in " Bibl. Topographia Britannica," No. V. p. 244, and Wharton's " Observations " on Strype's " Memorials," attached to the Oxford edition printed in 1812, vol. ii. p. 1047. The Lambeth residence of the Bishops of Rochester, originally called La Place, and afterwards Carhsle House, from its change of ownership, has been noticed in page 80. In the " Life and Death of Bishop Eisher," written by Dr. Richard Hall in Queen Elizabeth's reign, but not pubhshed until 1653, a somewhat different account is related from that given by Stow of the execrable attempt made to poison Bishop Eisher at La Place (see p. 80), viz.: — " The Bishop escaped a very great danger: for one R. Rose came into the Bishop's Kitchen (being acquainted with the Cook) at his House in Lambeth Marsh, and having provided a quantity of deadly poyson, whiles the Cook went into the Buterie to fetch him some drink, he took his oppor tunity to throw that poyson into a mess of gruell, prepared for the Bishop's dinner ; and after he had stayed there awhile, went his way : but so it happened that, when the Bishop was called unto his dinner, he had no appetite to any meat, but wished his servants to fall to, and be of good chear, and that he would not eat till towards night. The servants being set to dinner, they that did eat of the poysoned dish were miserably infected, whereof one gentleman, named Bennot Cawen, and an old widow, died sodainly, and the rest never recovered their health till their dying day. The person that did this wicked deed was afterwards for that offence, boyled ahve in Smithfield, in the 22d yr of K. Henry's reign." Life, &c, of Bishop Fisher, p. 101. LAMBETH. 131 first stone was laid by their proxy, Mr. Alderman Goodbehere, in October, 1816. The ground, which is copyhold, is held of the manor of Lambeth (though not immediately of the lord) at a yearly rent of £80. On account of the swampy condition of this spot, it being directly adjacent to one of the large and ancient ditches made for the drainage of Lambeth Marsh, a great part of the stone materials of the old Savoy Palace, in the Strand (then undergoing demolition), was used in securing the foundations. The designs for this theatre were furnished by Cabanel, a native of Li^ge, and it was first regularly opened on Whit-Monday, 1818. This is a well-built, uniform edifice, but has no pretensions exteriorly to architectural distinction. The auditorium, which is nearly of a semicircular figure, rises to a height of about 50 feet, and is capable of holding 2,800 persons. This theatre is now styled the Eoyal Victoria Theatre. The interior has been recently entirely remodelled and handsomely decorated in the Italian style. In Oakley Street, at the Oakley Arms, on November 16th, 1802, Colonel Edward , Marcus Despard and thirty-two other persons were apprehended on a charge of treason able conspiracy against the King and the Government. In the February following the Colonel and his associates were tried by a special commission at the Surrey Sessions House, and, being all found guilty, seven of them, including Despard, were executed on the 21st at Horsemonger Lane Gaol. Several other places of amusement, besides those already described, existed at different times in this neighbourhood. Of these, the Temple of Flora, situated near the middle of Mount Eow, and the Apollo Gardens, near the junction of the Kennington and Westminster Bridge Eoads, were opened for music, dancing, &c, about 1788 ; but, like the Dog and Duck in St. George's Fields, they were ultimately suppressed by the magistracy, in consequence of the loose and profligate purposes for which they were frequented. Another and much older place of entertainment, called Lambeth Wells, in Three Coney Walk (now Lambeth Walk), was in existence in King William's reign, and had possibly been opened at an earlier period. It was in repute for its mineral waters, which were drawn from two wells, and sold at a penny per quart, " being the same price paid by St. Thomas's Hospital."* Here, about the middle of the last century, a musical society, under the direction of Mr. Sterling Goodwin, organist of St. Saviour's, Southwark, held its meetings, and lectures were read and experiments exhibited on Natural Philosophy by Mr. Erasmus King, formerly coachman to Dr. Desaguliers. Afterwards, having been deprived of a license, the dancing-room was let to a Methodist preacher, who used the music gallery for a pulpit. Within memory, however, it continued open as a tea garden, but the attached * See advertisement in the Postman of March 28th, 1700. S 2 j32 HISTORY OF SURREY. premises have been since either built on or converted to other purposes. The dAvelling- house, also rebuilt, has been known for many years by the sign of the Fountain. Lambeth was first constituted a borough, and empowered to return two representatives to the House of Commons, by the first Eeform Act, passed in June, 1832, and its boundaries were settled by another Act (2 & 3 William IV. cap. 64), which received the royal assent in the following month.* Members of Parliament for the Borough of Lambeth from 1832 : — ( Eight Hon. Charles Tennyson. ( Benjamin Hawes, Esq. 1835. The Same. (In July, 1835, Mr. Tennyson obtained the royal license to assume the surname of D'Eyncouet, pursuant to his father's will.) 1837. The Same. 1841, The Same. Right Hon. Chaeles Tennyson-D'Eyncouet. Chaeles Pearson, Esq. AVilliam Arthur Wilkinson, Esq. William Williams, Esq. William Williams, Esq. AVilliam Rotjpell, Esq. 1859. The Same. 1862. On retirement of Mr. Roupell, Frederick Doulton, Esq., was elected. Frederick Doulton, Esq. Thomas Hughes, Esq. Sir James Clarke Lawrence, Bart. William M' Arthur, Esq. 1874. The Same. 1847. ( 1852. | 1857. [ 1865.1868. NEWINGTON, OR NEWINGTON BUTTS. . This parish, which forms a portion of the vast suburbs of London south of the Thames, adjoins the parish of St. George, Southwark, on the north and east, Camberwell on the south, and Lambeth on the west. Walworth (described as a manor in the Doomsday Book) was probably, in the middle of the eleventh century, the only inhabited part of this parish, of which it has since become a hamlet. A church at Walworth is mentioned in the Norman survey, and Mr. Lysons says, " It seems probable that at the rebuilding of that church upon a new site it was surrounded with houses, which obtained the appellation of Neweton, as it is called in all the most ancient records : it was afterwards spelt Newenton, and Newington." -\ * In the last Act the boundaries are thus described : — " The Parish of St. Mary Newington, the Parish of St. Giles Camberwell, except the Manor and Hamlet of Dulwich, and also such Part of the Parish of Lambeth as is situate to the North of the Line herein-after described, including the Extra-parochial Space encompassed by such Part : — From the Point at which the Road from London to Dulwich leaves the Road from London over Heme Hill in a straight Line to St. Matthew's Church at Brixton ; thence in a straight Line to a Point in the Boundary between the respective Parishes of Lambeth and Clapham 150 Yards South of the Middle of the Carriage-way along Acre Lane." + " Environs," vol. i. p. 389. NEWINGTON. '33 This place doubtless derived its distinctive appellation from the Butts placed here for the convenience of the people, that they might exercise themselves in archery. It is stated that the earliest record in which the name Newington Butts has been noticed is the Eegister of Archbishop Pole at Lambeth Palace, under the date 1558. Butts for bowmen to shoot at for practice were ordered by royal authority to be set up in the fields near London in the reign of Henry VIII., and both James I. and Charles I. issued directions that the butts destroyed in consequence of enclosures should be restored.* Stow mentions this place as the scene of one of the religious tragedies which disgraced the reign of Henry VIII., while the Church was under the government of Archbishop Cranmer: — "The 29th of Aprill, 1540, one named Maundeueld, another named Colens, and one other, were , examined in S. Margarets church, and were condemned for Anabaptists, and were on the 3. of May brent in the high way, beyond Southwark, towards Newenton." f The only manor in this parish is that of Walworth. Edmund Ironside gave it to Hitard, his jester, who, in the reign of Edward the Confessor, being desirous to visit the " threshold of the apostles " at Eome, went to the Church of Christ at Canterbury, and, with the consent of the King, gave the vill of Walworth to that church.J The following account appears in the Doomsday Book : — "Bainiard holds of the Archbishop [of Canterbury] Waleorde, which in the time of King Edward was appropriated for the clothing of the monks. It was then assessed at 5 hides : now at 3^ hides. The arable land amounts to 3 carucates. One carucate is in demesne ; and there are fourteen villains, and five bordars, with 3 carucates. There is a church ; and there are 8 acres of meadow. In the time of King Edward, it Avas valued at 30s., afterwards at 20s., and now at 60s." In 1317 the monks of Christ Church had a grant of free- warren in their manor of Walworth. In the reigns of Edward III., Eichard II., and subsequently, the manor was held by persons of a family whose name was derived from this place. Margaret de Walworth is mentioned as lady of the manor in a Eegister of William of Wykeham, Bishop of Winchester, in 1396; and Sir George Walworth died seized of it in 1474. § But these persons, and others said to have held the manor, were probably lessees under the ecclesiastical lords of the fee. Henry VIII. in 1540, having suppressed the monastery of Christ Church, established a dean and twelve prebendaries in the room of * Lysons, " Environs," vol. i. p. 389. t Chronicle, p. 974. X Dugdale, " Monasticon Anglicanum," vol. i. p. 97. § Escheats, 13 Edw. IV. No. 47. , 34 HISTORY OF SURREY. the prior and monks, and bestowed on them this and other estates, which still belong to the Dean and Chapter of Canterbury. In the valuation of Church property in 26 Henry VIII. the manor of Walworth is rated among the estates of Christ Church, Canterbury, at £37 8s. It appears from the Testa de Nevill that in the reign of Henry III. the Queen's goldsmith held of the King, in capite, 1 acre of land in Niweton by the service of rendering a gallon of honey. The Advowson. — It is stated in the record just cited that Eoger de Sussex held the church of Niwetun, valued at 8 marks, of the gift of Stephen, Archbishop of Canterbury. The patronage was afterwards vested in the Earls of Pembroke, of the family of Valence, probably by grant of the prior and convent. Henry VIII. obtained the advowson from Archbishop Cranmer in exchange for other property, and shortly before his death gave it to the Bishop of Worcester, who had a confirmation of the grant from Edward VI. It has ever since been vested in the bishops of that see. The benefice is a rectory, in the peculiar jurisdiction of the Archbishops of Canterbury, valued in the Taxation of Pope Nicholas at 22 marks, and in the King's books at £16. Rectors of Newington Butts in and since 1800 : — 1. — Charles de Guiffardiere, M.A. Instituted in 1793. 2. — Samuel Picart, M.A. Instituted in 1810. 3. — Arthur Cyril Onslow, M.A. Instituted in 1812. 4. — William Dalrymple Maclagan. Instituted in 1869. 5. — George Thomas Palmer, M.A. Instituted in 1875. Independently of the parish church, dedicated to St. Mary, there are now several others, besides numerous chapels for different classes of Dissenters. The old Church of St. Mary's was built between 1791 and 1793, in place of a much earlier but smaller structure, of the origin of which we have no account. The expense of building, about £3,500, was defrayed by a rate levied for three years on the parishioners. It was a plain edifice of brick, and had a low tower at the west end, surmounted by a cupola and bell turret. This edifice was demolished and the building materials sold in 1876, and it is a somewhat strange fact that scarcely any trace of the former churches which here stood from pre-Norman times could be discovered. The site of the old church is now marked by a lofty stone clock tower, designed by Mr. Jarvis, and erected by the munificent liberality of E. S. Faulconer, Esq., who for some years filled the office of churchwarden. The new church, which is a very spacious structure, is on the east side of Kennington NEWINGTON. -35 Park Eoad : it is from a design of Mr. James Fowler, of Louth. It is of early English character, and, when the square tower is completed, will be of imposing aspect. The interior is very plain and massive, the chief enrichments consisting of painted glass. Mr. A. B. Bryer was the donor of the east Avindow ; and the west window is a memorial to the late Eichard Cuming, Esq., a man of vast learning and ability, who for ninety years was an inhabitant of the parish. It Avas a gift to the church from his son and daughter. Both these windows, as Avell as some on the south side of the church, are the productions of Mr. Daniel Bell. The new church was consecrated by the Bishop of London in 1876. Although the Church of St. Mary is removed for some distance from its ancient site, there has been erected in one corner of the old churchyard an inelegant chapel-like building of red brick dedicated to St. Gabriel. The old church contained several interesting monuments : among them one for Sir Hugh Brawne, who " for the space of 22 years was the whole ornament of the parish," as the inscription stated. It ended thus : — Reader, it pleas'd the Almighty to infuse Sence of his goodness in my fleshy heart : Eaith quicken'd Love ; Love did his Church-work chuse, Both jointly here to shew ourselves in part. His be the glory ; Peace (Soule's Sabbath) mine ; Prayer, Thanksgiving, Use, Example, thine. 1614. Vivens posui, Anno csiatis 77. Against the east wall in the chancel was a monument of white marble, erected by tho late Bishop Horsley in memory of Sarah, his second wife. It was ornamented with a sculpture of an open book lying upon a mitre and crosier, with a cross above them. She died in 1805. The inscription recording her virtues, in Latin, was written by her bereaved partner. Beneath, an inscription written by the Eev. Heneage Horsley, M.A. (the Bishop's son by his first wife, and a Canon of St. Asaph), commemorated the Bishop himself, who died in 1806, and was buried here in the same vault with his second wife. On the demolition of the old church the Bishop's remains were removed to a vault in Thorley Church, Herts. Against the same wall was a monument of white marble, at the upper part of which was an urn, with an extinguished torch and an open book, thus inscribed : — 1. Ep. Pet. Cap. ii. Ver. 17 — Deum timete, Begem honorate. Juxta hoc marmor sepultus est Rev. Carolus de Guiffaediere, A.M. hujusce parochise per sexdecim annos Rector. Amicis semper deflendus, obiit lma die Januarii, anno Domini MDCCCX™0, safaris sua? LXXmo. On the south wall was a tablet in memory of Captain Martin Waghorn, of his 1 36 HISTORY OF SURREY. Majesty's royal navy, who died in 1787. He was one of the few persons who escaped from the Royal George, sunk off Spithead, June 28th, 1782. The churchyard, much enlarged under an Act of Parliament of George II. in 1757, and further extended in 1834, contains numerous tombs and other sepulchral memorials, of which our limits will not admit particulars.* The Eegisters of this parish, commenced in 1561, but very imperfect until about 1670, include the subjoined instances of longevity, viz. : — Edward Allen, aged 107 years and upwards, buried January 20, 1686. Sarah Wood, aged 101 j buried AprU 5th, 1701. Mary Ralf, aged 100 ) Christopher Coward, aged 102, buried December 16, 1703. AVidow Jeweller, aged 106, buried August 30, 1706. Adjacent to the churchyard stood the parsonage-house, of which Lysons, writing in 1791, says, "It is built of wood, appears to be very ancient, and is surrounded by a moat, which has four bridges." f This interesting old building was pulled down in 1872. In the course of demolition portions of the original sixteenth-century structure were brought to light, notably the stonework of an early Tudor fireplace. A new and commo dious rectory, designed by Mr. Christian, has been built in close proximity to the new church in Kennington Park Eoad. The attached glebe consisted of the garden and two small fields. Some adjoining land, on which Queen's Head Eow, Church Eow, Parsonage Eow, &c, now stand, was let on a building lease for ninety -nine years, under the authority of an Act of Parliament obtained in 1757 or 1758, by the Eev. John Horsley (Bishop Horsley's father), who resigned this living in the latter year in favour of his son, who continued to hold it until his promotion to the see of Eochester in 1793. At a short distance from the site of the old church are the United National Charity and Sunday Schools, erected in 1820 for the instruction of 1,000 children, and supported by voluntary contributions. They have been rendered much more commodious within * Among those which in the last century were regarded as the most conspicuous was that of Wilham Allen, son of a cowkeeper in this parish, who was shot by a soldier during the riots in St. George's Fields in 1768, when the celebrated Wilkes was confined for pohtical offences in the King's Bench Prison. In the inscription it is stated that Allen was " inhumanly murdered on the 10th of May, by Scottish detachments from the army," to which are added the impre cation, " Oh ! Earth, cover not my Blood," and other texts of Scripture, expressive of the feehngs of the bereaved parent by whom the memorial was erected. A soldier was subsequently tried for the alleged crime, and acquitted, as it was not proved to the satisfaction of the jury that he was the man who fired at the deceased. The periodicals of the time show the strong indignation against the Government which this unfortunate occurrence excited in the pubhc mind. + " Environs," vol. i. p. 394. From this account of the situation of the parsonage, it must be evident that the adjacent ground was very marshy; and Stow, under the date September 30th, 1555, mentions that "by occasion of great wind, and raine that had fallen, was such great floods that all the marshes on Lambeth side were so overfiowne that the people from Newington church could not passe on foote, but were caried by boate from the said church to the Pinfold, neare to St. George's in Southwarke."— Chronicle, p. 1061, edit. 1600. NEWINGTON. -37 recent years by several large class-rooms and a spacious playground, the latter being a portion of the garden of the old rectory. Board Schools have sprung up in various parts of the parish. Maitland, in his notices of Newington and Eotherhithe, says that " on the west side of Hunt's, or the Fishmongers' Alms-houses, is a moorish ground, with a small water-course denominated the river Tygris, which is part of Cnut's trench ; — the outflux of Avhich is on the east side of Eotherhithe parish, where the great wet-dock is situate." * In reference to this passage it may be noticed that in 1823, when the road between the almshouses and Newington Church was dug up for a neAv sewer, some piles and posts were discovered with rings for mooring barges, &c. ; also a tin pot containing coins of the reigns of Charles II. and King William. An old parishioner named Fearns, who died at the age of one hundred and nine years, in the early part of the present century, often said that he remembered when boats used to come up as far as the church at Newington. The Drapers' Almshouses, in Cross Street, were founded by Mr. John Walter, clerk to the Drapers' Company, for poor single men and women. The inmates are eight in number : each has a distinct apartment. Another almshouse, formerly in connection with this parish, was founded by James Hulbert, fishmonger, for twenty poor men and women. This was under the direction of the Fishmongers' Company, and adjoined their own almshouses at the corner of St. George's Eoad. In 1851 the Fishmongers' Almshouses were removed to Wandsworth. On part of the ground formerly occupied by the Fish mongers' Almshouses now stands the Metropolitan Tabernacle, a large edifice erected in 1859 — 61 for the congregation of Mr. C. H. Spurgeon. On the south side of Newington Causeway were erected, in pursuance of an Act of Parliament passed in 1791, from the designs and under the direction of Mr. George Gwilt, the county surveyor and architect, the Horsehonger Lane Gaol and Surrey Sessions House. The ground, about 3^ acres, previously occupied as a market garden, was purchased, together with the lessee's interest, for the sum of £1,350. The buildings were completed and fitted up in 1798 and 1799 at the additional cost of £39,742 14s., inclusive of the surveyor's charge of £2,100 for plans, estimates, and superintendence. A further cost of £3,000 was incurred in 1809, when several houses were purchased and pulled down, and a handsome approach made from the high-road. This prison, which was demolished in 1878, was long the place of execution for criminals from Surrey. It was a quadrangular building, three stories in height above the basement, the keeper's house being in the centre and overlooking all the yards. Three sides were appropriated to * " London," pp. 1388-89, edit. 1772. VOL. III. T ¦33 HISTORY OF SURREY. the confinement of felons, and one side for debtors. Among the several small benefactions enjoyed by the debtors down to the time of the abolition of imprisonment for debt was a donation made to the old White Lion Prison in Southwark (mentioned by Stow) by Mrs. Margaret Symcott, or Eleanor Gwynn, of sixty-five penny loaves, every eight weeks, issuing from the Chamberlain's office.* Trinity Church, Trinity Square, near Blackman Street.— This church, situated on the Bermondsey verge of the parish, was, together with St. Peter's, Walworth, erected under the provisions of an Act of Parliament (1 George IV- cap. 41) for " Building tAvo new Churches or Chapels in the Parish of St. Mary, Newington Butts," which received the royal assent in 1820. About fifty trustees were appointed to carry this statute into execution, and the " Commissioners for Building and promoting the Building of new Churches," &c, under the Acts of 58 & 59 of George III., were empoAvered to divide the parish into three separate ecclesiastical districts, but reserving to the Archbishops of Canterbury all the rights and powers which they had heretofore exercised within the parish of Newington. This ha3 since, been done, one district being attached to the old Church of St. Mary, and the others assigned to the new Churches of Trinity and St. Peter. Trinity Church was erected from the designs of Francis Bedford, Esq., already mentioned as the architect of several churches in the northern parts of Surrey. The ground was given by the Corporation of the Trinity House, who possess considerable property in the vicinity, and the first stone was laid in 1823 by Archbishop Sutton. In 1824 the new church was consecrated by the same primate. The cost of building was £13,316, about one moiety of which was defrayed by voluntary subscriptions, and the other by borrowed aid from the parliamentary fund. This edifice, chiefly of brick with stone dressings, consists of a parallelogram (about 110 feet long by 60 feet wide), forming the body of the church, and ranging east and west; an advanced portico of the Corinthian order, with entrance vestibules on the north side (a disposition rendered expedient by the near contiguity of the surrounding houses) ; and a steeple of three stages surmounting the roof behind the portico. This latter consists of six fluted columns sustaining a plain, entablature (continued as a finish around the church) and a pediment. The lower story of the steeple contains the bells and clock dials ; * Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. hi. Appendix XVI. Stow, in enumerating the prisons in Southwark at the close of the sixteenth century, says, " Then is the White Lion, a Gaole so called, for that the same was a common Hostery, for the receit of travellers, by that signe. This house was first used as a Gaole within this three-score yeeres last, since the which time the prisoners were once remoued thence to an house in Newtowne [Newington], where they remained for a short time, and were returned backe again to the aforesaid White Lyon, there to remain, as the appointed Gaole for the County of Surrey." — {Survey of London, p. 780, edit. 1618.) In the following century this gaol became too ruinous for use, and the prisoners were transferred to the Marshalsea. NEWINGTON. i39 the second story is of the Doric order, with weather boarding in the intercolumniations ; the third consists of -a square pedestal forming the plinth, or basement, of an octagonal turret, crowned by a ball and cross. On each side the church are two ranges of segment- arched windows, and at the east end are an entablature and pediment corresponding with the northern front. The interior affords accommodation for nearly 2,000 persons. The galleries are sup ported by Doric columns, and the ceiling is divided into square compartments by inter secting architraves, the centre of each being ornamented with an expanded flower. The interior was redecorated in 1867. Handsome railings of cast iron surround the church, and in the small adjacent plantation is a statue of Alfred the Great. All Saints' Church, Surrey Square, was built in 1865 from the designs of Mr. Parris, and is of Gothic architecture. It was burnt in 1869, but restored and consecrated in the following year. St. Andrew's, in Deverell Street, New Kent Eoad, is a mission church. A permanent structure is in course of erection. The Church of St. Gabriel, near the Elephant and Castle, is a chapel-of-ease served by the clergy of St. Mary's. The edifice, which was consecrated in 1874, is of the "first pointed" style of architecture, and was built from the designs of Mr. Cutts. St. Matthew's, in the New Kent Eoad, was consecrated in 1867. It is a brick building of Gothic design, by Jarvis, and contains 1,100 sittings, 600 of which are free. At a short distance from the eastern side of Walworth Eoad, near Beckford Place, is St. Peter's Church, a composition from the classic orders, erected from the designs of Sir John Soane. The first stone was laid by Archbishop Sutton in 1823, immediately subsequent to his performance of the like ceremony at Trinity Church, and it was con secrated by the same primate in 1825. The cost, including incidental expenses, amounted to £19,126, about one-half of which was raised by subscription, and the residue borrowed at interest from the parliamentary fund. The body of the church is of brick, but the steeple and architectural decorations are of stone. In the centre of the west front, flanked by two high-arched windows, is a recessed portico, composed of four columns of the Eoman-Ionic order, supporting an entablature, above which is an orna mental balustrade. The steeple, rising from an elevated plinth behind the portico, consists of two stories : the lower one, square in plan, is of the Corinthian order, and the upper most circular, with a peristyle of eight composite columns surmounted by a dome and a lofty gilt vane. The interior arrangements are impressive in effect. The altar windows are enriched with stained glass. In the middle window an oval medallion displays a full- sized head of our Saviour crowned with thorns, and in the side windows are delineated t 2 1+0 HISTORY OF SURREY. the Charge of St. Peter, and the Angel delivering St. Peter from Prison.* The ceiling is panelled, and ornamented with expanded flowers and foliage in plastic. The number of sittings is about 2,000, of which one-fourth are free. Beneath the church are capacious and well-ventilated catacombs. All Souls' Church, Grosvenor Park, Walworth, consecrated in 1871, is of early English architecture, from the designs of Messrs. Jarvis. St. John's, in York Street, is of similar architecture, and has sittings for 1,000 worshippers. St. Mark's, in East Street, was also built from the designs of Messrs. Jarvis. It is of English Gothic archi tecture, and was consecrated in 1874. St. Paul's, Lorrimore Square, is a large handsome edifice of early English architecture. It was consecrated in 1856, and is noted for its ritualistic services. St. Stephen's, Walworth Common, was consecrated in 1871. It is of Italian Gothic architecture, and contains sittings for 800 worshippers. A vast change has taken place in Walworth and its neighbourhood. Walworth Common and Lock's Fields (formerly a swamp) have been entirely covered with houses, and at the present time scarcely an acre of ground remains vacant, except the Surrey Zoological Gardens. Various chapels have likewise been erected in different situations for Anabaptists, "Particular" Baptists, Independents, Wesleyans, &c. Clayton's Chapel, in York Street, Lock's Fields, is sufficiently capacious for nearly 2,000 persons. In Beresford Street also is an Episcopal chapel, originally built in 1818, and affording accom modation for about 1,600 persons. The Surrey Gardens. — These Gardens were established in 1831, in the early part of which year a public meeting was held at the Horns Tavern, Kennington, for the purpose of founding a zoological and botanical institution on the general plan of that in the Eegent's Park, by means of a fund of £10,000, to be raised by voluntary donations and debentures of £25 each. This attempt was unsuccessful ; but shortly after, Mr. Edward Cross (proprietor of the grand menagery long exhibited at Exeter Change, and subsequently at the King's Mews), assisted by some friends, obtained a lease of the demesne attached to the manor-house at Walworth, and in 1831 he laid the first stone of the conservatory, or principal building, and the Gardens were publicly opened in the following month. The anni versary of that event was celebrated in 1832 by a " Fancy Fair and Fe'te Champetre," under the patronage of Queen Adelaide and many of the chief nobility, on which occasion there were upwards of 10,000 visitors. The animals were removed from the grounds several years ago, and for some time past the place has ceased to be used for the purposes of entertainment. * The central window was the gift of — Firth, Esq., an inhabitant of Walworth ; the side windows were presented by the architect, Sir John Soane. ROTHERHITHE. i+i These Gardens are situated between the Kennington and Walworth Eoads, at the nearly equal distance of one mile and a quarter from the three bridges of London, Blackfriars, and Westminster. They comprise an extent of about 15 acres of ground, together with a lake (with islands, &c.) of about 3 acres, on the borders of which, in 1837, a scenic representation, by Dansen, was first shown of " Mount Vesuvius and Bay of Naples:" soon after the volcano was exhibited in eruption. This was succeeded in 1839 by a view of " Iceland and its Volcanoes," including Mount Hecla, &c. ; in 1841 by a pictorial model of the " City of Eome ; " in 1843 by the "Temples of Elora," in the East Indies ; in 1844, by " London in the Olden Time" (occupying about 300,000 feet of canvas), and as destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666 ; and in 1845 by a delineation, partly in model, of the " City of Edinburgh." In 1846 the View of Vesuvius, &c, was reproduced, but with much enlargement and improved effects in respect to the eruption. The grounds were laid out and plantations made under the direction of Mr. Henry Phillips (author of the "Sylva Florifera"), and various buildings, both picturesque and otherwise, were erected in different situations for the animals and birds. The principal of these was the conservatory (so called), a glazed circular edifice, 100 feet in diameter, in which the carnivorous animals were kept. During the last few years of their existence music formed one of the chief attractions at these Gardens. In 1851 open-air concerts were given in a large covered orchestra on the margin of the lake. These were conducted by Jullien, and proved very successful. Later on a large music-hall was erected, capable of accommodating 12,000 persons, This building was used as a temporary hospital during the rebuilding of St. Thomas's, on its transference from Southwark to Lambeth ; and also for a short time for religious purposes, under Mr. C. H. Spurgeon. On the first occasion of holding these services, in October, 1856, the crush was so great that a serious accident occurred, whereby seven persons lost their lives. ROTHERHITHE. This parish, anciently called Retherhith, probably derives its appellation from the Saxon words redhra, a mariner, and hydh, a haven ; that is, the sailor's harbour. The learned antiquary, William Baxter, deduces the name from the British er-odar, in Welsh yr-odr, signifying a boundary, and the Saxon hydh, this place being situated at the border-line between Kent and Surrey ; but that etymology, besides other objections, involves the incongruous intermixture of two distinct languages. Eotherhithe, vulgarly styled Redriff, is situated on the southern bank of the Thames, and is bordered on the east by Deptford, r+2 HISTORY OF SURREY. on the west by Bermondsey, and on the south partly by Bermondsey, and in part by Peckham, in Camberwell. Eotherhithe is not mentioned by name in the Doomsday Book, as at the time of the survey it was included in the royal manor of Bermondsey. At a subsequent period it contained two manors. It seems probable that Henry I. gave a part of the land here to his natural son Eobert, Earl of Gloucester, whose grand- daughter Amicia and her descendants ultimately succeeded to his honours and estates. This lady married Eichard de Clare, Earl of Hertford, and her son Gilbert, in 2 Henry III., holding the honour of Gloucester in right of his mother, was afterwards made Earl of Gloucester. Gilbert de Clare, his grandson, held the manor of Eotherhithe in 46 Henry III., and Eobert, Bishop of Bath and Wells, was his tenant. In 21 Edward III. (1348) William Bohun held half a knight's fee here under the Earl of Gloucester, though it is uncertain how it came into his possession. Manning says, " It was probably one of those manors which Edward III. purchased for the endowment of the Abbey of St. Mary de Gratiis, on Tower Hill ; and this William Bohun might be a feoffee, in trust for the conveyance of it." The estate certainly belonged to that abbey, the superior of which, in 21 Eichard II., with the King's permission, demised it in fee- farm for ever, at a rent of £20 a year, to the prior and convent of St. Mary Magdalene, Bermondsey.* Henry I. having given, as already mentioned, a part of the Crown lands at Eotherhithe to his son Eobert, Earl of Gloucester, granted the remainder to the Cluniac monks of Bermondsey. Eobert, Bishop of Bath and Wells, who held lands here of the Earls of Gloucester in the reign of Edward I., became tenant of the monastic estates also.f Philip Burnell, the Bishop's nephew and heir, died in 1294, leaving a son Edward, a minor, who appears to have been the ward of John de Drokenesford, Keeper of the Great Seal ; for in an inquisition taken after the death of Gilbert, Earl of Gloucester, who fell in the battle of Bannockburn in 1314, it is stated that Drokenesford had held under him, as of the honour of Gloucester, certain lands and tenements in Eutherhuth, of the annual value of 100s., by the service of half a knight's fee. * Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. i. p. 218 : from Patent Roll, 21 Richard II. t From an inquisition taken shortly after the decease of the Bishop in 1292, it appears that he held at Rotherhithe, of the honour of Gloucester, by the service of half a knight's fee, two messuages, valued at 4s. ; 52 acres of arable land, at ls. an acre ; and 32 acres of meadow land, at 3s. an acre ; the annual value amounting together to £7 12s., from which, deducting a quit-rent of 2s. 2d., he derived an income of £7 9s. lOd. He also held of the Prior of Bermondsey one messuage, value 2s. ; 4 acres of arable, at 4d. an acre ; 2 at ls. an acre ; 13 of meadow, at 3s. an acre ; and assized Tents of free tenants, £1 15s.; altogether, .£3 19s. 4d. : a quit-rent of 14s. ld. being deducted, left a clear income of £3 5s. 3d. The entire estate of the Bishop here, forming the manor of Rotherhithe, thus yielded ,£10 15s. ld. ROTHERHITHE. H3 Edward Burnell died seized of this estate in 1315, without issue, and his sister Maud Avas his heir ; but Aliva, her brother's widow, held Eotherhithe in doAver. Maud Burnell married, first, John, Lord Lovel, and after his death John de Handlou ; and the estate of Eotherhithe, with others pertaining to his wife's inheritance, was settled on his second son Nicholas, a fine having been levied in 18 Edward II. to authorise such an arrangement. Nicholas de Handlou assumed the name of his mother's family, and in 24 Edward III. he was summoned to Parliament by the title of Lord Burnell. On the death of Aliva, the widow of his maternal uncle, he had livery of Eotherhithe and other estates which she had held in dower : dying in 1383, he was succeeded by his son Hugh, Lord Burnell. This nobleman was one of the favourites and counsellors of Eichard II., and on the success of the insurrection of the nobility, headed by the Duke of Gloucester, against the King and his ministers, in the eleventh year of his reign, Lord Burnell was banished from the court. At a later period he was among the opponents of his misguided sovereign, having been one of the commissioners from the Parliament sent to the Tower to receive his resignation of the crown, after he had been virtually deposed by his cousin and competitor, Avho succeeded him as Henry IV. This Lord Burnell died in 1420, and his son Edward having deceased before him, leaving no male issue, the right to the estates of the Burnell family devolved on William, Lord Lovel, descended from Maud Burnell by her first husband. While Hugh, Lord Burnell, held the manor of Eotherhithe (viz. in 21 Eichard II.), the Abbot of Bermondsey, who held the superiority of this estate, also obtained the usufructuary property of the other portion of Eotherhithe by lease from the Abbot of St. Mary de Gratiis, as before stated : thus the entire manor of Eotherhithe, divided by Henry I., became vested in the monks of Bermondsey. William, Lord Lovel, the feudal tenant of that part of the conventual property which had belonged to the Burnell family, died seized of it in 1454. His son and successor, John, Lord Lovel, was an active partisan of the house of Lancaster, and joined with Lord Scales in an attempt to defend the Tower of London against the Yorkists in 1460 ; but he afterwards submitted to the new king, Edward IV., and was summoned to Parlia ment from 1459 to 1463. Dying in the latter year, he left a son and heir, Francis, a minor. This youthful peer enjoyed the patronage of the Duke of Gloucester, whom he attended on his expedition to Scotland in 1482 ; and when the Duke ascended the throne as Eichard III., Lovel was made Lord Chamberlain of the Eoyal Household. He fought for the King at Bosworth, and after his fall fled to Burgundy, whence he returned to England with the German troops sent by the Duchess Margaret of York to join in an I+4 HISTORY OF SURREY. insurrection against Henry VII. The King attacked the Yorkists at Stoke-on-Trent, June 16th 1487 and gained a complete victory over them. The fate of Lord Lovel is uncertain. Holinshed says that he, the Earl of Lincoln, and other leaders " were slaine and found dead in the verie places whiche they hadde chosen alyve to fight in, — howbeit," he adds, " some affirme, that the lord Lovell tooke his horsse, and would have fledde over Trente, but was not able to recover the further side for the highnesse of the banke, and so was drowned in the river." But long afterwards circumstances transpired which afford grounds for believing that he escaped to the family mansion at Minster-Lovel, and was there treacherously starved to death.* Lord Lovel was attainted in the first Parliament of Henry VII., and his estates conse quently escheated to the Crown ; but his grandfather, William, Lord Lovel, having settled the remainder of this estate on his younger son William, who married Eleanor, daughter and heiress of Lord Morley, his son Henry, Lord Morley, succeeded to it on the attainder of his cousin. In 1489 he was killed at the siege of Dixmude, and, as he left no issue, the Eotherhithe estate fell to the King, and it was granted by Henry VIII., in 1515, to Gerard Danett, Esq. But, on an inquisition taken at Southwark in 1516, it appeared that the lands thus granted had long been held by the abbot and convent of Bermondsey of the King and his predecessors, at the specified rent of £4 a year, and that they Avere so intermixed with those of their own former occupation that it was impossible to ascertain their bounds. Danett, therefore, at their request (probably for a consideration), resigned his grant in the July following, when the monks obtained a conveyance of the lands to themselves, to hold of the Crown, in frank- almoigne, for ever, on condition of celebrating an obit on the anniversary of the King's death, whenever it should happen, for the souls of the King, of Queen Katherine, of his father and mother, and of all faithful people departed. This grant bore the date of 1516. There is evidence from existing records that the lands and tenements in Eotherhithe formerly in the tenancy of the Burnells and their representatives did not include all the land in that parish belonging to the monks of Bermondsey. William de Blyburgh held under the prior and convent one messuage and two gardens, with 15 acres and 1 rood of arable land, within this manor; and in 28 Edward I. he obtained a license, on a writ of Ad quod Damnum, to stop a certain road adjoining his manse, for the purpose of enlarging the said manse, on condition that he should make another road of the same extent, and hold the land, thus augmented, of the prior and convent. W. de Blyburgh died in 6 Edward II. seized of this estate, leaving Agnes, the wife of Eichard Donleghe, his next * See account of Ham, in Kingston hundred, vol. ii. p. 277 ; and Banks's " Extinct Peerage," vol. ii. p. 321. ROTHERHITHE. 145 heir. In the reign of Edward III., Eobert Fitzwalter, Lord of Egremond,* held a messuage in Eotherhithe called the Moated Place, which in 36 Henry VIII. (1544) was granted to Eobert Lawerd, or Lord, to hold of the King in common socage. The grantee died 4 Edward VI. seized of another messuage called Eawleigh's Place, but afterwards the Seven Houses, in the road to Deptford, and he left a daughter and heiress named Alice, wife of Henry Polsted. f From an inquisition taken in 2 Edward III. it appears that Bartholomew de Badles- mere died "seized of lands and tenements in Eetherhith." This baron, executed in 1321, with many other adherents of Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, probably obtained this estate through his connection with the Clares, Earls of Gloucester, for he married Margaret de Clare, a descendant of that family. In 7 Henry IV. it was found on an inquisition that the Prior of Bermondsey was in possession of 22 acres of land and 8 acres of meadow in Eotherhithe, called Brokeshall, formerly parcel of the common of the vill of Eotherhithe, without the King's license. J The monastery of Bermondsey was surrendered to the King in 1538, when all the property belonging to it became vested in the Crown. The manor of Eotherhithe was retained until the reign of Charles I., by whom it was granted, at the request of Sir Allen Apsley, and probably in trust for him, to William White and others. In 1668 James Cecil, Earl of Salisbury, was lord of the manor, and his son James, the fourth Earl of Salisbury of that family, held the estate till 1692, when it appears to have been alienated to John Bennet, Esq., a relative of the Countess of Salisbury, and therefore he possibly held it as a trustee. Manorial courts were held in his name until 1706, when John Jolley and Benjamin Morret were lords of the manor. From 1720 to 1739 it belonged to Thos. Scawen, Esq., and from 1740 to 1750 the name of Samuel Swinson appears on the court rolls ; but Manning says that during part of this interval Admiral Sir Charles Wager was the owner of the property, and Swinson may have been a trustee for that officer, who died in 1743. He gave this estate to his nephew, Charles Bolton, who married Martha Goldsworthy, to whom he bequeathed it at his decease. Dying in 1777, she left the Eotherhithe property to her nephew, Major-General Goldsworthy, one of the King's Equerries, and Colonel of the 1st Eegiment of Dragoons. He died in 1800, leaving * This was Robert, Baron Fitzwalter, who died in 1328, improperly styled by Lysons Baron of Egremond, because he married Joane, one of the daughters and coheiresses of John de Multon, the last Baron of Egremond, whose inheritance was shared between this lady and her two sisters, among whose descendants and representatives the barony of Egremond is still in abeyance. (See Banks, " Dormant and Extinct Baronage," vol. ii. p. 207 ; and Sir H. Nicolas, " Synopsis of the Peerage," vol. ii. p. 458.) t Terrier of Lands in Surrey, No. 4705, Ayscough's Cat. British Museum. X Dugdale's " Monasticon," vol. v. p. 88. VOL. III. V I+6 HISTORY OF SURREY. a sister and heiress, Miss Goldsworthy. From Miss Goldsworthy the manor of Eother hithe descended to the late Field-Marshal Sir William Maynard Gomm, G.C.B., at whose death in 1875 it passed to his widow. The present lady of the manor is Mrs. Carr-Gomm, who in 1878 inherited the estate from her aunt, Lady Gomm. A fleet is said to have been fitted out at Eotherhithe in the reign of Edward III., under the orders of the Black Prince and his brother John of Gaunt. Lambarde, in his "Topographical Dictionary," says that Henry IV. lodged in an "old stone house here, Avhiles he was cured of a leprosie." Two charters of that prince are dated at this place m the month of July, 1412, and from these it has been inferred that there was a royal mansion at Eotherhithe ; but most probably his residence here was but temporary, on the occasion just mentioned. The Thames Tunnel, Eotherhithe.— This important work was devised about 1820 by Mr. Brunei, F.E.S. (afterwards Sir Isambart Marc Brunei). Two attempts to construct an archway under the Thames had previously been made. The first, from Gravesend to Tilbury, in 1799, was projected by Mr. Ealph Dodd, an engineer of much note; the other, from Eotherhithe to Limehouse, was commenced by the "Thames Archway Company," under the provisions of an Act of Parliament obtained in 1804; but both attempts proved abortive.* When the plan for making a double roadway under the Thames, and executing it on a full scale at once, was submitted to the public by Mr. Brunei in 1823, the boldness of the enterprise and the novel method by which he proposed to carry on the work excited the general attention of the scientific world ; and the scheme having been sanctioned by the approval ofthe Duke of Wellington, Dr. Wollaston, and many other persons of talent and influence, a joint-stock company was formed under the provisions of an Act of Parliament, which received the royal assent on the 24th of June, 1824, to carry it into effect. By that Act the " Thames Tunnel Company " was authorised to raise £200,000 in £50 shares, together with the further sum of £50,000, should the former be insufficient. The operations for making this subaqueous as well as subterranean channel of com munication between the opposite shores were commenced on the Surrey side at a short * On the latter occasion the operations were continued nearly five years, under the direction chiefly of Messrs. Vasey and Trevethick, two experienced Cornish miners. The work was commenced by sinking a shaft, 11 feet in diameter, about one mile below Rotherhithe Church, and 315 feet from the river. With much difficulty, arising from the land water, the shaft was carried to the depth of 42 feet ; and being then reduced to 8 feet in diameter, it was continued to the depth of 76 feet. A horizontal excavation, or driftway, 5 feet in height, 2 feet 6 inches in breadth at the top, and 3 feet at the bottom, was begun and carried to the extent of 1,040 feet, when the ground at the head of the drift twice broke in under the pressure of high tides, though at the respective depths of 30 feet and 25 feet from the bottom of the river ; and the work was subsequently abandoned, no less than fifty-four engineers having then agreed in opinion that it was impracticable to make a tunnel under the Thames of any useful size for commercial purposes ! ROTHERHITHE. '47 distance eastward from Eotherhithe Church, and at about 150 feet from the water side. On that spot several concentric circles of piles were driven into the ground, within the innermost of which was fixed a strong wooden curb, shod with iron, and 50 feet in diameter. Upon that a substantial cylinder of brickwork, bedded in Eoman cement, 42 feet in height aud 3 feet in thickness, was constructed, and strengthened in various ways by iron rods, band hoops, &c, thus forming a vertical shaft of the weight, as computed, of 1,000 tons. Shortly after it was begun, on the 2nd of March, 1825, a stone with a brass plate appropriately inscribed, coins, &c, was laid in the brickwork by William Smith, Esq., chairman of the company, with much ceremony, and in the presence of a numerous assemblage of spectators. When the cylinder was finished a powerful steam-engine was set upon it, for the purpose both of raising the earth from within the shaft and of effecting a drainage ; the whole was then sunk into the ground en masse, in the manner in which wells are usually sunk. By this means a dangerous quicksand, full of land water, 26 feet in depth, was successfully passed through, and the shaft was completed to the depth of 65 feet. A smaller shaft, 25 feet in diameter, was afterwards sunk within the other, as a well or reservoir for the pumps. The horizontal excavation for the tunnel Avas then opened at the depth of 63 feet, and in order to haA'e a sufficient thickness of ground to pass with security under the deepest part of the river, the excavation was carried to that point on a declivity of 2 feet 3 inches per 100 feet. At a full tide the foot of the tunnel is 75 feet below the surface of the water. The manner in which the operations were carried on can hardly be intelligibly explained without exceeding the necessary limits of this narrative. The great means by which the excavation was finally accomplished was by the employment of a powerful apparatus designated the " Shield." This consisted of twelve strong frames of cast iron, each 22 feet in height and 3 feet in breadth, placed "close to each other, like so many volumes on the shelf of a book-case,"* one division of which is represented in the woodcut on the following page. Every division, or frame, comprised three distinct stages, or cells, and consequently there were thirty-six altogether for the operators, namely, the miners, by whom the ground was cut down and secured in front of the shield, and the bricklayers, by whom the structure was simultaneously formed from the back of the cells, as each alternate frame was pressed forward by strong screws abutting against the solid brickwork. In front every cell was protected by a close panelling of small boards, technically called pollings, * See "An Exposition of the Facts and Circumstances relating to the Tunnel," as submitted by Mr. Brunei to his late Majesty, at St. James's Palace, on the 24th of May, 1833. u 2 148 HISTORY OF SURREY. each of which was 3 feet in length and 6 inches wide, and was secured and kept in its place by two jack-screws.* Eventually, when from the fluid nature of the ground additional precautions became necessary, the pollings were attached to each other and to the top of the shield by hooks, and further strengthened by iron spurs resting upon the floor-plates and going into the ground, f The staves, as they were called, which formed the upper part of the shield, were, for greater strength, made like inverted troughs of cast iron; they were 1 foot 6 inches in breadth, and 9 feet in length, independently of a tailing of Avrought iron to overlay the brickwork. The shield was placed in its first position at the bottom of the shaft about the 1st of January, 1826, and the structure of the double archway was commenced. From that time until the 27th of April, 1827, the tunnel had been finished to the extent of 540 feet, but the miners and bricklayers then struck, "without even securing their work," from apprehensions of danger at the state of the |- ground before them. Fresh hands were engaged, and the tunnel |K was advanced about 10 feet; but on the 18th of May the river burst in with irresistible force, and completely filled the exca vation, the workmen escaping with much difficulty. The opening through which the irruption had taken place was afterwards filled up (as in subsequent instances) with several thousand small bags of clay (armed with hazel rods about 4 feet long) and loose gravel, which, becoming consolidated by the pressure of the tides, again closed the aperture. The water was then pumped out of the tunnel by a powerful hydraulic apparatus, and greatly to the satisfaction of every one, the brickwork was found to be uninjured, and the excavation was recommenced. But notwithstanding the fertility of invention displayed by the engineer, both as to preventive and remedial measures, when the work had been completed to the length of 600 feet * The chief parts of the shield are referred to by the numerals in the woodcut from 1 to 8, viz.: — 1. The Polling Boards in front of the shield. 2. The Jack-screws. 3. The Top Staves, securing the upper part of the excavation until the substitution of the brickwork: the sides of each division of the shield were similarly defended. 4. Screws to raise or depress the top staves. 5. The Legs, being jack-screws fixed by ball-joints to the shoes, upon which the whole division stands. 6. The Shoes. 7 and 8. The Sockets, where the top and bottom horizontal screws were fixed to force the division forward as the work advanced. t This mode of attaching the polling boards proved so safe, both in its service and results, that at a meeting of the Institution of Civil Engineers on the 3rd of February, 1843, Sir Isambart Brunei stated that should another tunnel he constructed, he would make the system of thus attaching the pollings an essential part of the organization of the shield, being convinced it might, " by this means, be worked through the worst ground with a certainty of safety and success." SECTION OF THE SHIELD. ROTHERHITHE. H9 another extensive rupture took place in the bed of the river, and, in despite of the most intrepid and steady perseverance of the men to counteract the disaster, the soil and water again rushed in and filled the tunnel : on this occasion six of the workmen were drowned. This second irruption, though far more impetuous and disastrous than the first, was over come by the same means as before, though no less than 4,000 tons of soil were required to fill the chasm. When the tunnel was re-entered it was found that the brickwork was undisturbed and perfectly sound, though its protecting shield was much strained and fractured. These repeated accidents proved almost fatal to the undertaking, for the company's funds being nearly exhausted, the work was altogether discontinued, with little prospect of a revival. At that time only £144,000 had been paid up by the share holders, and £140,000 had been expended. At length, after a lapse of seven years, the project was resumed, and by the aid of Exchequer bills bearing interest, issued by the Treasury under the sanction of Parliament, to the amount of £300,000, this noble monument of British science was successfully completed. The work was recommenced in March, 1836, and a new and stronger shield, weighing about 180 tons, having been provided, all subsequent difficulties were overcome, though several formidable irruptions took place, both of water and ground ; and the frequent bursts of carburetted and sulphuretted hydrogen gas into the tunnel, from 1837 to 1839, had occasionally such an effect upon the men that some of them fell senseless at their posts. Such was the fluid state of the soil, also, that on many occasions they were obliged to block up the top boxes with timber until auxiliary means were devised to enable the miners to proceed with security. Early in 1841 the tunnel was sufficiently advanced to insure its completion, and on the 24th of March her Majesty Queen Victoria conferred the honour of knighthood on Mr. Brunei, to reward in some degree the unceasing anxiety and toil which he had so long undergone. -But a still higher satisfaction was afforded him in the following August, when he entered the tunnel by a small driftway constructed from the shaft sunk on the Wapping side of the river. About nine years of actual employment were expended on the work, and its cost, inclusive of the purchase of ground on each bank of the Thames, amounting to £30,000, and other incidental charges, was about £446,000. It was first opened for foot-passengers on the 25th of March, 1843.* The tunnel consists of an oblong mass of brickwork laid in Eoman cement 38 feet in * The engineer's original estimate for the completion of the tunnel was £166,000. The steam-engine and hydraulic apparatus for draining the works were estimated at £4,000 ; the apparatus (or shield) for carrying on the erection, £3,300 ; and the iron tools and all necessary implements, £6,000. The new shield cost about £7,000. It was exhibited on the Rotherhithe side, at a small charge, for about two years after its work was done, but was ultimately broken up and con signed to the melting furnace. ,50 HISTORY OF SURREY. width and 22 feet 6 inches in height, presenting a sectional area of 850 feet, AvithiD Avhich are tAvo parallel arched passages of the horseshoe form, each about 16 feet high, and 13 feet 9 inches wide. These archways are separated by a middle wall, increasing in thickness downward from 3 feet 6 inches to 4 feet, at which point an inverted arch, 3 feet thick, contributes both to support the external walls and strengthen the central one. There are also numerous arched bands, or transverse arches, extending across each passage at regular distances. All the foundations are laid on thick and strong beech planks, and the great weight of the shield in passing over the ground served so materially to compress it, that no instance occurred of sinking in the foundation or settlement of any kind. In each passage were originally a carriage road and a footway, but the descending approaches for carriages were never made. The descent for foot-passengers on each side of the river was formerly by several flights of steps, constructed spiral- wise within a circular shaft, surmounted by a polygonal cupola pierced both with sky and lantern lights. The roadways, which originally communicated with each other by sixty-three small arches, were lighted by gas. The toll for passengers was one penny, but the success of the Thames Tunnel as a commercial undertaking, in its original state, appears never to have been realised. In 1871 it was closed for foot-passengers, and it is now used as a railway, the trains of the East London Eailway Company passing through it between Liverpool Street and New Cross and other South London stations. The Commercial Docks, Eotherhithe. — There is a tradition, supported by the authority of Stow, that at the spot now occupied by the oldest portion of these docks, was the com mencement of the trench, or canal, made by Canute from this point to Battersea, to enable him to avoid the bridge when he brought up his fleet to besiege London. The chronicler further states that the course of the river was diverted through the same passage when the first stone bridge across the Thames was built in the reign of King John. The present Commercial Docks, however, originated in the "Howland Great Wet Dock," which existed in 1660, and was so called from a family settled at Streatham in the latter part of Queen Elizabeth's reign, Sir Giles Howland having purchased the manor of Tooting-Bec, in that parish, in 1599. The Howland property was conveyed in marriage to the Eussells by the union of Wriothesley, Marquis of Tavistock, with Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of John Howland, Esq., of Streatham, in 1695. The nuptial ceremony was solemnised at Streatham by Gilbert Burnet, Bishop of Salisbury, and immediately after wards the youthful bridegroom (then only in his fifteenth year) was created Baron Howland of Streatham, in compliment to the large estates to which Miss Howland was entitled.* * Wiffin's " Historical Memoirs of the House of Bedford," vol ii. p. 301. ROTHERHITHE. 1 5 ' The Howland Dock (which continued in the possession of the Eussells until 1763) was not quite 10 acres in extent in Queen Anne's time, yet it was then stated to be larger than the famous basin of Dunkirk, or of "any pent water in the world, and capable of affording secure accommodation for one hundred and twenty sail of the largest merchant men." At a subsequent period, when the Greenland whale fishery flourished, the dock was engaged for the reception of vessels employed in that trade ; and various houses, &c, with boilers, tanks, and other apparatus for extracting oil from blubber, were erected. In 1800 Mr. Ealph Dodd projected the construotion of the Ship Canal from Eother hithe to Vauxhall, of which the Greenland Dock (as then called) was to be the commence ment; but this scheme proved abortive. In 1807, the whaling trade having declined, whilst the importation of timber and other, merchandise from the north of Europe had greatly increased, the dock changed owners, and under the appellation of the Baltic Dock was appropriated for ships laden with timber, deals, tar, corn, &c, after the premises had undergone great alterations and enlargement by the purchase of various properties, espe cially of the ship-building yard, docks, &c, of Mr. William Eitchie, at the sum of £35,000. It was soon afterwards styled the Commercial Dock, and having been closed for improvements, was reopened under its new name in 1809. In the following year the " Commercial Dock Company " was established by an Act of Parliament (50 Geo. III. cap. 207), and consolidated by two other Acts obtained in 1811 and 1817. Under the direction of the Board new docks have been excavated, yards, granaries, wharfs, &c, repeatedly enlarged and improved, until the property has been augmented to a very considerable extent from what it was originally. There were formerly six docks, or basins ; but at the present time they number no less than thirteen. The two inner docks were opened in 1815; and in 1876 a large new basin, called the Canada Dock, was excavated and opened. This dock has a water area of 16^ acres, and a quay space upwards of 21 acres in extent. These docks, now the property of the Surrey Commercial Dock Company, are situated about three miles below London Bridge : the entrance is in Limehouse Eeach, where the river takes a large sweep, within which the docks have been formed. They are supplied by the Thames, the level of the ground being much below high-water mark. At spring tides the average depth of water at the sill of the dock gates is 18 feet 7 inches, but occasionally the tide rises to 22 feet. In 1844, for the purpose of obtaining a more ready access from the metropolis to this neighbourhood, a floating pier was established. The old East Country Dock, together with the Grand Surrey Canal, now forms part of the elaborate system belonging to the Surrey Commercial Dock Company. ,S2 HISTORY OF SURREY. In 1850 the Commercial Dock Company purchased the East Country Dock and premises for the sum of £40,000 ; and in 1851 ,an Act was passed confirming the purchase, and empowering the company to construct a new entrance to the, Thames, now known as the South Lock, and enlarge the East Country Dock. These works were carried out at an expense of £190,000, in addition to the purchase money. The new dock and premises were opened in 1855. In 1862 a new entrance to the Thames, near Lavender Dock, was completed and opened. The Grand Surrey Canal was commenced in 1802, and the basin opened for business in 1807 : the canal itself, however, was not completed for many years. In 1855 the company became incorporated under the name of the " Grand Surrey Docks and Canal Company," and in 1864 was amalgamated with the Commercial Dock Company. Great alterations and improvements have since been made both in the docks and the canal. The dock property altogether , now comprises ten docks and seven timber ponds, Avith an aggregate water area of 176 acres, and land or wharfage area of 193 acres, making in all 369 acres of dock property ; and a canal extending from the docks at Eotherhithe to Camberwell and Peckham, with an area of 66 acres. The docks have four entrances from the Thames at different points, extending over a length of If miles of the river. The quays in the docks available for shipping are 5 miles long. The company's granaries have a storage capacity of 150,000 quarters, whilst 14 acres of shed accommodation are provided for the storage of hard woods and prepared flooring boards requiring to be placed under cover. The staff of management of the Surrey Commercial Dock Company consists of a Chairman, two Deputy Chairmen, fifteen ordinary Directors, two Auditors, a Secretary, and a Superintendent. The total capital of the company in January, 1877, amounted to £1,506,813 16s. 6d. Advowson, &c. — The living of Eotherhithe is a rectory in the deanery of Southwark and diocese of Eochester, to which it was transferred in 1877 from the diocese of Winchester. The advowson formerly belonged to the convent of Bermondsey. In 2 Elizabeth it was held by Ealph Bosseville, after which it repeatedly changed owners, and in 1721 was purchased by James, Duke of Chandos, who in 1730 resold the advowson to Clare College, Cambridge, its present patrons. In the Valor of 20 Edward I. it is rated at 10 marks per annum, but was subject to a payment of 20s. yearly to the convent of Bermondsey. In the King's books its annual value is stated at £18, paying 7s. 7id. for procurations, and 2s. ld. for synodals. About 300 acres, once chiefly meadow land and market gardens, are tithable. The Eegisters, commenced in 1556, are ROTHERHITHE. ' 5 3 apparently very perfect. There are many entries among the burials of persons whose ages are from ninety to ninety -nine years ; also of the following of still greater age : — Margaret Sinclaire, from Bermundsey, aged 101, buried January 19, 1794. Elizabeth Richardson, widow, Pashfields-rent, aged 120, buried February 14, 1800. Rectors * of Eotherhithe in and since 1800 : — I.— Robert Myddleton, D.D. Inducted in 1792. 2. — James Spear. Eesigned in 1817. 3. — Jonn Short Hewett, M.A. Instituted in 1817. 4. — Edward Blick, M.A. Instituted in 1835. 5. — Edward Josselyn Beck, M.A. Instituted in 1867. The old Church of St. Mary at Eotherhithe, of the origin of which little is known, having become both ruinous and too small for the increased population, the inhabitants determined to rebuild it on a larger scale. For that purpose £920 19s. 8d. was raised by a brief, and £1,829 14s. 6d. by private contributions. With these sums a new church Avas begun in 1714, and opened for divine service in 1715: the cost amounted to £3,792 14s. ld. It was further enlarged, and the steeple built, under two Acts of Parliament, passed respec tively in 1717 and 1738, and the whole fabric completed. It is constructed of brick, with stone rustic quoins, window cases, and other dressings. On each side are two rows of large segmental-arched windows and a spacious entrance ; and at the west end is a square tower of two stages, finished with a balustrade, and containing a clock and six bells. This is surmounted by a cylindrical lantern formed by a peristyle of the Corinthian order, crowned by urns, from the dome of which issues a small octagonal spire, terminated by a ball and cross : these parts are of stone. The interior of the church consists of nave and aisles, and an altar recess, divided from the nave by antse and a segmental arch. The altar screen, which is of oak, is of the Corinthian order, and includes the usual tables of the Lord's Prayer, &c, in four compart ments. In the east window is a picture of St. Mary the Virgin in stained glass, executed by Collins after the Madonna delle Stelle of Guido in the Blenheim Collection. The roof * Among the more ancient rectors of this parish was the Rev. Thos. Gataker, B.D., who held the living from 1611 until his decease in 1654. He was distinguished both as a divine and critic ; but becoming obnoxious to Government during the supremacy of Laud, he was for some time imprisoned in the Fleet. He afterwards sat in the Assembly of Divines at Westminster, and sometimes acted as their chairman. His treatise on the Purity of the Language of the New Testament, in Latin, pubhshed in 1646, gives a favourable idea of his critical talents. He was buried at Rotherhithe. The Rev. Charles Gataker, M.A., son of the preceding, was born at Rotherhithe about 1614, and attained distinction as a controversial writer, chiefly in defence of Calvinism. He died in 1680, and was interred in the chancel at Hoggeston in Buckinghamshire, of which parish he had been long minister. VOL. III. X ,s+ HISTORY OF SURREY. of the nave, waggon-shaped and ornamented with a flowered panelling, is supported on each side by two massive columns rising from the floor : the roofing of the aisles is flat. In 1876 the interior was entirely rearranged under a faculty from the Bishop of Winchester. The old high pews were replaced with convenient open seats, the floor was repaved, large portions of the galleries were removed, choir seats provided, and the sanctuary paved with marble. These improvements were carried out under the direction of W. Butterfield, Esq., architect, at a cost of between £1,800 and £1,900. The sittings afford accommodation for about 750 persons. The chief sepulchral memorial is a white marble tablet com memorative of the Soper family, of whom William Soper, Esq., Avho died in 1839, was many years treasurer of this parish. Several tablets from the earlier church are still preserved. In the churchyard is the tomb of Prince Lee Boo, a native of the Pelew Islands, in the Indian Ocean, who died at Eotherhithe in 1784. The following sepulchral inscription affords a brief account of the character and fate of this interesting young foreigner, con cerning whom more full information may be found in Mr. Keate's " Narrative of Captain Wilson's Voyage : " — To the Memory of Prince Lee Boo, a Native of the Pelew or Palos Islands ; and Son to Abba Thulle, Rupack or King of the Island Coo-roo-raa, who departed this life on the 27th of December, 1784, aged 20 years, this Stone is inscribed by the Hon. United East India Company, as a Testimony of Esteem for the humane and kind Treatment afforded by his Father to the Crew of their Ship the Antelope, Capt. Wilson, which was wrecked off that Island in the Night of the 9th of August, 1783. Stop Reader, stop ! Let Nature claim a tear — " A Prince of mine, Lee Boo, hes buried here." Admiral Sir John Leake. — This brave officer was born at Eotherhithe in June, 1656. He Avas the son of Capt. Leake, master gunner of England ; and having entered the navy in early years, he served as a midshipman in the war with the Dutch in 1673. In the battle of Bantry Bay in 1689 he commanded a fire-ship, and for his gallant conduct on that occasion he was made Captain of the Dartmouth frigate, in which he effected the release of Londonderry, then closely besieged by the French allies of James II. He was subsequently in the battle off Cape La Hogue, at the taking of Gibraltar by Admiral Eooke, and in several other actions where success attended the British flag. In 1703 he was made Vice-Admiral of the Blue, and was afterwards knighted. In the war of the Succession against the French and Spaniards his services were numerous and important, especially in the reduction of Barcelona in 1706, and capture of Minorca in 1708. Two years later he Avas appointed Commander-in-chief of the fleet and a Lord of the Admiralty; but after the accession of George I. in 1714 he Avas deprived of ROTHERHITHE. *55 his offices, and thenceforth passed his time in seclusion until his decease at Green wich in 1720. He was buried at Stepney, where he had erected a monument for his deceased wife.* The other churches of Eotherhithe have all been erected within the last half-century, partly by local subscriptions, and partly by grants from societies. Trinity Church is situated near the old East Country Dock, at the extremity of the parish, on a plot of ground given for the purpose by the Commercial Dock Company. It was built from the designs of Mr. Kempsall at a cost of £3,400, and was consecrated by the Bishop of Winchester in 1838. This is a spacious brick edifice in the early pointed style, with a square embattled tower at the west end. It contains about 1,000 sittings, of which 500 are free. All Saints' Church is also a brick building in the early pointed style, designed by the same architect as that of Trinity, and erected at a nearly similar cost. It stands in the Deptford Eoad, opposite Surrey Place, and was consecrated by the Bishop of Winchester in 1840. At the west end is a low square tower, including the principal entrance, sur mounted by an octagonal spire. Since 1873 this church has been thoroughly restored at an expense of above £1,000. A new chancel has been erected, handsome coloured-glass windows inserted, and the fabric reseated, &c. The churchyard and glebe of All Saints' were given by the late Field-Marshal Sir William Gomm.f Christ Church, which stands in Union Eoad, near the end of Paradise Eow, bordering on the parish of Bermondsey, is a substantial brick building, designed by Lewis Vulliamy, Esq., architect. The cost of its erection was defrayed by the trustees of Miss Hyndman's * In Manning and Bray's " Surrey," vol. i. p. 228, it is stated that " Hanover Street [in Rotherhithe], formerly called Wintershull Street, is still remembered as the birth-place of Admiral Benbow," another of our naval heroes, of whom an interesting memoir is given in the " Biographia Britannica," from the communications of Paul Calton, Esq., a son-in-law of the Admiral. But the place of Benbow's nativity was Shrewsbury, and not Rotherhithe ; and a view of the house at Coton Hill in which he was born (about 1650) may be seen in the Gentleman's Magazine for December, 1809. Tradition states that, on visiting Shrewsbury after many years' hard service, he went into the room where he first drew breath, and on his knees returned thanks to the Great Disposer of events for his protection and support. His portrait, presented by his sister, is preserved in the Town-hall at Shrewsbury. t In the notice of the consecration of this church in the Gentleman's Magazine for September, 1840 (p. 307), is the subjoined passage: — " The comprehensive plan of the Rev. E. Blick, the rector of Rotherhithe, one of the most indefati gable and public-spirited ministers of the Church of England, has now been completed. He was inducted into the living not quite five years ago, and found but one church and two schools for the spiritual instruction of his parishioners and the education of the poor. He proposed that three new churches and five new schools should be erected ; that each of the new churches should have a district of three thousand persons assigned to it, leaving four thousand to the mother church. The whole expense was estimated at £25,000, of which about £23,000 has been coUected. Of this sum, £21,000 was obtained by voluntary subscriptions. The five schools have been long in full operation, as well as the old' parochial schools. One of the new churches was consecrated eighteen months since, the second about twelve months ago, and now the third. Thus upwards of three thousand additional sittings have been provided, of which one-half are free and unappropriated, and a resident minister appointed to each." x 2 ,56 HISTORY OF SURREY. bounty, who possess the patronage. The ground was given by the late Field-Marshal Sir Wm. Gomm, G.C.B. (a most liberal benefactor to the parish of Eotherhithe), and the first stone was laid by him in 1838. In the ensuing year the church was finished and conse crated. This edifice is designed in the early English style of architecture, with buttresses at the sides and angles, and a square tower at the west end, forming the principal entrance. The interior is extremely plain ; and the communion-table is placed in a shallow recess at the east end, with the usual inscriptions. On either side are four large windows of three divisions each. There are three spacious galleries, supported by small columns and braces of cast iron. The roof is sustained by open timber-work in several divisions. Against the south wall is a sepulchral tablet of white marble, erected by Sir Wm. Gomm " in grateful remembrance of Thos. Mackley, his confidential and much-valued servant and friend, for forty-one years," who died in 1840. Sir William and Lady Gomm are both buried in a vault in this church. St. Paul's Chapel-of-Ease, in Globe Street, was erected in 1850, and contains accom modation for 320. The communion-table, altar-rail, and chairs in this church are made of the wood of the famous Fighting Temerairc, which was broken up at the ship-breaker's yard of the late Mr. Beatson, close by. St. Barnabas Church, in Plough Eoad, was consecrated in 1872. This church (with the " Gomm Schools " in the same road) was largely indebted to the munificent aid of the late Sir William Gomm for its erection. Though small in area, it is lofty and dignified. The architect was Mr. W. Butterfield : it provides accommodation for 517 (all free), and the cost was £3,900. A Boys' National School in connection with Christ Church was built and opened in 1870, at a cost of £1.200. The ancient Free School, in Church Street, Avas founded by Peter Hill and Eobert Bell in 1613 (10 James I.). It has since been amalgamated with the Charity School, founded in 1703, and the Amicable Society School, founded in 1739. A new schoolroom was erected in 1875, and the school is known as the Amicable School. Many other Church schools are in the parish, and recently the School Board for London has erected here large schools. Several chapels for different sects of Dissenters have been erected in this parish. On the south side of Union Eoad and Lower Eoad is Southwark Park. It comprises some 70 acres of ground, formerly market gardens, which were purchased by the Metro politan Board of Works, and laid out with gravel walks, flower beds, and a cricket ground. The " ornamental " portions are well planted with shrubs and trees. Near the gates and lodge-house, on the west side of the park, are two mounds formed by the earth excavated from the bed of the river during the construction of the Thames Tunnel. STREATHAM. -57 STREATHAM. It is probable that this parish obtained its name from lying on the Eoman road called Stane Street, Streat-ham signifying the "home," or dAvelling, on the "street," or road. Though no observable traces of the road are now visible, there is reason to believe that it passed by Old Croydon, on the west side of Broad Green, and by Thornhill Hatch and the manor-house, whence it extended to Newington, and there joined the Watling Street from the coast of Kent. In the Doomsday Book the name of this place is written Estreham, but in subsequent records Stretham, and more recently Streatham. It borders northward on Wandsworth, Battersea, and Clapham, to the east on Lambeth, to the south on Croydon and Mitcham, and to the west on Tooting and Wandsworth. The soil consists partly of clay and partly of graA'el, chiefly the latter. A saline mineral spring was discoArered in a field in this parish in 1660, and Lysons says that it was much used as a cathartic medicine towards the close of the last century.* No less than four manors called Estreham (Streatham) are noticed in the Doomsday survey, besides the manors of Totinges (Tooting-Bec ) and Belgeham (Balham), both Avhich are in this parish ; but the Estrehams in the hundreds of Walton and Kingston were apparently not connected with this manor. The details are as follows : — ¦ " In Brixistan Hundred, Ansgot holds Estreham of the Bishop of Baieux. In the time of King Edward it was held by Edwin, who could remove where he pleased. It was then assessed at 1 hide, as at present. There is 1 carucate of arable land ; and there are two villains. It is, and was, valued at 25s." " In Walton Hundred, the Earl of Mortaign held Estreham. In the time of King Edward, it was assessed at 5 hides ; now, at nothing. Harold then held 1^ hides ; and the Canons of Waltham, \\ hides. Three socmen held 2 hides, and they could transfer the land as they pleased. The arable land comprises 2 carucates. There are three villains, and three bordars, with 1\ carucates. In the time of King Edward, it was valued at 30s. ; and afterwards, at 15s.; uoav, at 43s." " In Kingston Hundred, Haimo the Sheriff holds Estreham of the Abbot of Chertsey. Ulward held it in the time of King Edward ; and could remove where he pleased. Then it was assessed at 1 hide. There is 1 carucate of arable land : and there are two bordars. It is, and was, valued at 20s." * The original medicinal spring was on the south side, and near the top of the common belonging to the Vauxhall manor, in Lower Streatham, and the house, built for the accommodation of visitors, was called Well House. The adjoining house was known as Well-field House. The present well is on the east side of the village of Streatham, on part of the common of the manor of Leigham, called Lime Common. (5 8 HISTORY OF SURREY. "In Brixistan Hundred, the Abbot of St. Mary de Bee holds, by gift of Eichard de Tonbridge, Totinges, which Estarchar held of King Edward. It was then assessed at 11 hides : now, at 1 hide. The arable land amounts to 4 carucates. Two carucates are in demesne : and there are five villains, and four bordars, with 3 carucates. There are 10 acres of meadow. It was valued, in the time of King Edward, at 100s.; and the same at present ; but when received, at 20s." " The Abbot also holds of Eichard, Estreham, which Erding held of King Edward, It Avas then assessed at 5 hides : now, at 1 hide. There are 3 carucates of arable land, and 1 carucate is in demesne ; and there are four villains, and 5 bordars, with 2 carucates. There is a chapel, which yields 8s. There are 4 acres of meadow ; a wood furnishing ten hogs ; and for herbage, one hog out of ten. In the time of King Edward, it was valued at 50s. ; and afterwards, and at present, at 60s. " In Brixistan Hundred, Goisfrid Orlateile holds Belgeham, without any grant from the King, and without warrant. Anschil held it of Earl Harold. It was then assessed at 5 hides ; now, at nothing. The arable land amounts to 2 carucates. One is in demesne ; and there are one villain, and one bordar, with half a carucate. There is one bondman ; and 8 acres of meadow. In the time of King Edward, it was valued at £6 ; afterwards, at 20s. ; and now, at 40s." The Manor of Tooting-Bec, or Tooting-Beck. — The manors of Totinges and Estreham, mentioned as having been held by the Abbot of Bee, in Normandy, appear to have been afterwards consolidated, forming the present manor of Tooting-Beck. Though the two estates were not originally held on the same terms, yet the monastic brethren obtained permanent possession of both, while the descendants of Eichard de Tonbridge retained the superiority at least until the reign of Edward III. From the Escheats of 8 Edward II. it appears that the Prior of Okebourn, Wilts, an alien cell belonging to the Abbey of Bee, held the manors of Tooting-Beck and Streatham, by the service of one knight's fee, from Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester, who fell at Bannockburn. On the suppression of alien priories, Avhen Henry V. declared war against France, this manor became vested in the Crown. The King granted Tooting-Beck to his brother, John Plantagenet, Duke of Bedford, Avho held it until his death in 1435 ; and, as he had no children, this estate descended to his nephew, Henry VL, who granted it to John Ardern for ten years at an annual rent of £19. In 1441 the King founded Eton College, and he assigned this manor towards the endowment of that institution; but after his dethronement in 1460, his successor, Edward IV., resumed several of the grants to that college, and he assigned to Lawrence, STREATHAM. IS9 Bishop of Durham, for his life, the priory or manor of Totyngbeke, parcel of the priory of Okebourn, with the advowson of Streatham.* This estate reverted, probably in exchange for other lands, to the King, who settled it on John Tiptoft, Earl of Worcester, Master, and Sir John Scott and others, Wardens of St. Mary's guild in the Church of Allhallows Barking, near the Tower, for the support of priests to pray for the soul of Edward IV. and others, and for the reparation of St. Mary's Chapel in that church. Guilds and chantries having been suppressed in the reign of Edward VI. , this manor and the advowson, in 1553, Avere bought by John Dudley, Earl of Warwick, at twenty - tAVO years' purchase. The estate afterwards belonged to the family of Pakenham, and in 1599 Avas sold by Henry Pakenham, Esq., to Sir Giles Howland, Knt. His descendant, John Howland, Esq., died seized of the manor and advowson in 1686, leaving an only daughter and heiress, Elizabeth, who in 1695 was married to Wriothesley, Marquis of Tavistock, afterwards Duke of Bedford. From him this property descended to Francis, fifth Duke of Bedford, who about 1790 conveyed it to his brother, the unfortunate Lord William Eussell (who was murdered by his valet), when he first became a candidate to represent this county. All the remaining part of the Bedford property in Streatham, except the advowson of the church, has been since sold. The manor of Tooting-Beck, with its rights and privileges, was sold by John, sixth Duke of Bedford, in 1816, to Messrs. Eichardson Borradaile and Maximilian Eichard Kymer. The manor-house, which stood at the corner of Streatham Common, on the Croydon road, is supposed to have been built by Sir Giles Howland, whose arms (viz. arg. two bars, sab. in chief three lions rampant, of the second), and those of his wife Elizabeth, daughter of Sir John Eivers {as. on a fess engr. arg. thereon a fess charged with three roses, betw. as many swans ppr. naiant), were upon the gatehouse turrets, f After being some time occupied by Lord William Eussell the estate was sold to Lord Deerhurst (afterwards Earl of Coventry), who pulled down the old mansion and fitted up a villa for his own residence out of the greenhouse and some of the offices. Having passed through one or tAvo intermediate hands, this estate, called Coventry Park, uoav belongs to the Metropolitan Board of Works, and is being rapidly covered with houses. The Manor of Leigham's Court. — This manor appears to have been granted by Ela, wife of Jordan de Sackville, to the prior and convent of Bermondsey about 1152, and in 30 Edward I. a writ was issued to inquire whether a lease of 2 carucates of land * Rymer's " Fcedera," vol. v. p. 109. t It has been traditionally said that the old manor-house had been a palace of Queen Ehzabeth, but there are no vahd grounds for that report. l6o HISTORY OF SURREY. here to Thomas Eomeyn, and Julian his wife, would interfere with the rights of the Crown, and the return was that such a lease would not be to the disadvantage of the King, because the monks held the land in frank-almoigne, and that the value was 5 marks a year. After the suppression of the monastery Henry VIII. granted this manor to Henry Dowes, clerk, Avho seems to have alienated Leigham's Wood, in Streatham, which in the early part of the reign of Elizabeth came into the possession of John Bowyer. In 1560 (2 Elizabeth) William Dowes, Vicar of AllhalloAvs Barking, conveyed this manor to John Southcott, Esq., afterwards a Justice of the Common Pleas, whose son and heir, John Southcott, Esq., of Bulmer, Essex, alienated it to Sir Matthew CareAv, Knt., LL.D., a Master in Chancery, and in 1610 it Avas transferred in the same manner to John Howland, Esq., of Streatham, Avho died seized of it in 1621, and from whose family it was conveyed, by the marriage of an heiress, to that of Eoberts. In 1752, George, Duke of St. Albans, married Jane, sole heiress of Sir Walter Eoberts, and thus became owner of this estate. On the decease of the Duchess without issue in 1778, the Duke, with the concurrence of his grand-nephew and heir apparent, George Beau clerk, Esq., made a settlement yf this property on themselves for their joint lives, with remainder to the latter in fee. In 1785 they sold Brockwell Green Farm, in Streatham, to Edward, Lord Thurlow, then Lord Chancellor, and in 1789 the manor was bought by the same nobleman.* Lord Thurlow erected a spacious mansion at Knight's Hill, a detached part of the parish within the manor of Lambeth, and bounded by Lambeth and Camberwell. He died in 1806, having devised a part of his estates to trustees for sale. Attempts were made to dispose of the Leigham estate by auction, and afterwards by private contract ; but no offers having been made acceptable to the trustees, an Act of Parliament was obtained in 1809 to enable them to sell portions of the land for building ; to dispose also of the manorial right in the copyhold tenements, &c. ; and to make other arrangements with a view to render the property more compact, and increase its relative value. Since that time the mansion-house has been pulled down. The manor of Leigham Court was purchased from Lord ThurloAv's devisees, in 1836, by Beriah Drew, Esq., of Streatham, together with a large part of the land, and that gentleman in 1839 made a new road, called Leigham Court Eoad, through this estate. * The estate then consisted of the manor of Leigham, with six copyhold tenements, containing together about 26 acres of land, held by quit-rents and heriots on death ; 594 acres, 1 rood, and 11 perches of freehold land in Streatham ; 123 acres, 1 rood, and 24 perches of freehold land in Lambeth ; and 355 acres, 2 roods, and 34 perches of copyhold land held of the manor of Lambeth. Under the Lambeth Enclosure Act of 1822, 48 acres, 3 roods, and 39 perches of land were added to the estate. STREATHAM. -61 Advowson, &c. — This benefice is a rectory in the diocese of Eochester, rural deanery of Streatham, and archdeaconry of Southwark. In the Valor of Edward I. it was rated at 6 marks and 40d. (£4 3s. 4d.), paying a pension of 20s. to the Prior of Okebourn. In the King's books it is valued at £18 13s. 9d. yearly, paying 7s. 7|d. for synodals, and 2s. 7^d. for procurations. The Duke of Bedford holds the advowson. The Eegisters commence with 1538, and have been generally well kept. Under the date of April 19th, 1545, the burial is entered of " Eichard Adams, the Hermit ; " and there is still a place in this parish called Hermitage Bridge, crossing a small stream. The marriage of Wriothesley, Marquis of Tavistock, to Elizabeth, heiress of the Howland family, in the chapel at Streatham [Manor] House, "in the presence of the grandfathers and grandmothers, and other nobility," on May 23rd, 1695, is also registered. Another entry records the birth on September 30th, 1710, and baptism on the 20th of the following month, of their third son John, who became fourth Duke of Bedford, and was celebrated for his abilities as a statesman. He was sent as Ambassador Plenipotentiary to the court of France in 1762, where he negotiated the treaty of peace which was ratified in the ensuing year.* Rectors of Streatham in and since 1800 : — 1. — Richard Bullock, D.D. Instituted in 1784. 2.— Herbert Hill, M.A. Instituted in 1810. 3.— John Wing, M.A. Instituted in 1829. 4. — Lord Wriothesley Russell, M.A. Instituted in 1830. 5. — Henry Blunt, M.A. Instituted in 1835. 6. — John Richard Nicholl, M.A. Instituted in 1843. f St. Leonard's Church stands on elevated ground near the middle of the village. It possibly occupies the site of the ancient chapel noticed in the Doomsday Book, and is supposed to have been rebuilt in the fourteenth century : it was again rebuilt in 1831, with the exception of its tower and shingled spire. The latter was consumed by fire in 1841, occasioned by its being struck by lightning. Shortly after the tower was repaired and heightened, and crowned by an octagonal spire of brick, stuccoed. The whole building is in the pointed style, and has a light and elegant appearance, both * The "Correspondence" of this nobleman between 1742 and 1770, with Introduction by Lord John Russell, is pubhshed in three vols. 8vo. + Dr. Benjamin Hoadly, subsequently promoted to the sees of Bangor, Sahsbury, and Winchester, was instituted to this rectory in 1710-11 by Mrs. Ehzabeth Howland, from her admiration of his pohtical principles, though she was then unacquainted with him. He afterwards dedicated a volume of Sermons to his patroness. VOL. III. Y ,62 HISTORY OF SURREY. from the character of its architecture and its commanding situation. The interior consists of nave, north and south aisles, and a large chancel added in 1864. The pulpit, of oak finely carved, belonged to the former church. Among the sepulchral memorials here which were removed from the old church is a mutilated figure of a knight in mail and plaited armour under a pointed-arched canopy : this is supposed to have been wrought in the fourteenth century, but for whom intended is unknown. Near the east end are two marble tablets with inscriptions in elegant Latin, written by Dr. Johnson, recording the memory and virtues of Hester Maria Salusbury, daughter of Sir Thomas Cotton, Bart., of Combermere, and mother of Mrs. Thrale (afterwards Mrs. Piozzi) and Henry Thrale, Esq., of Streatham Park. Mrs. Salusbury died in 1773, and Mr. Thrale in 1781. Also a monument of Avhite marble, by Flaxman, commemorative of Mrs. H. M. Hoare, third daughter of Mr. Thrale, who died in 1824. It represents an expiring female attended by an angel, and several mourning figures, beautifully executed. In the churchyard is a large square mass of masonry, with a cross of grey marble laid upon the top, covering the burial vault of Alex. Edw. Murray, sixth Earl of Dunmore, who died in 1845. Many Eoman coins have been dug up in the churchyard. Christ Church was built from the designs of J. W. Wild, architect, and consecrated by the Bishop of Winchester in 1841. The expense of its erection, about £8,000, was chiefly defrayed by subscriptions, aided by a grant of £1,300 from the Church Com missioners. It is of a peculiar character both in design and construction, and more impressive from singularity than beauty. Its style has been called the Byzantine, or Eastern Eomanesque ; yet some of its features indicate the transition from the Norman into early English, whilst the lofty bell tower attached to the south-eastern extremity reminds the antiquary of the far-famed campanile of St. Mark's Church at Venice. The Church op Immanuel, on Streatham Common, is of early English architecture, and was built in 1854. St. Peter's, in Leigham Court Eoad, was erected from the designs of Mr. Eichard W. Drew, to serve for an ecclesiastical parish, formed in 1870 out of the civil parishes of Lambeth and Streatham. The edifice is of brick, and in the decorated style of architecture. St.' Stephen's, Grove Eoad, is a Gothic structure, consisting of a nave and chancel, and was built in 1867. The village of Streatham is formed by an almost continuous range of villas, extending from Brixton Hill, on either side of the road, towards Mitcham and Croydon. Numberless detached villas and mansions have been built in different parts of the parish. STREATHAM. 163 The daughters of Mr. Thrale, of Streatham Park, erected four almshouses in Streatham for the use of poor widows, and there is an endowment for keeping them in repair. Various charitable donations, but not of considerable amount, have been given at different times for the distressed, of which £240, in the Navy 5 per cents., was bequeathed by John Eichard Eipley, Esq., in 1819, for the relief of six poor men and women not receiving parochial alms. Near the extremity of the village, on the Mitcham road, are the St. Leonard's National Schools, a neat structure in the Elizabethan style, built for the instruction of about a hundred children of either sex, on a plot of ground given by Mrs. Kymer. These schools have since been considerably enlarged. There are other schools at Brixton Hill and Tooting. The number of acres in this parish is 2,904. The Magdalen Hospital was removed to Leigham Court Eoad in 1868 from Blackfriars Eoad, St. George's Fields, where it was originally founded about the middle of the last century. The present Hospital has accommodation for about a hundred female penitents. The chapel of this institution is open for public worship. On the southern verge of the small common between Streatham and Tooting is Streatham Park, the ancient seat of Henry Thrale, Esq., (an affluent brewer of South wark), the amiable friend of Dr. Johnson, who during fifteen years was his almost constant guest. Mrs. Thrale was highly distinguished for her conversational and literary talents. She married Gabriel Piozzi, Esq., an Italian gentleman, by whom the villa and surrounding grounds were considerably improved. After the decease of Mrs. Piozzi in 1821 this estate was sold to a family of the name of Phillips. The house stood till about 1868, when it Avas pulled down, and the materials sold for building purposes. It contained a series of valuable portraits, by Sir Joshua Eeynolds, of the chief literary characters of Dr. Johnson's time: these were sold by auction in 1816, and Mrs. Piozzi's household effects were disposed of in the same manner, at Brighton, in 1857. The estate is now in part built upon ; but the memory of Mrs. Thrale is preserved by the name of Thrale Hall, given to a large house on the estate, which was originally a hydropathic establishment, but is now used as a private hotel or boarding-house. Constant allusions to the old house and its hospitable inmates will be found in Boswell's " Life of Johnson." Johnson's favourite summer-house here, in which it is said he wrote part of his Dictionary, was demolished at the time when the house was pulled down. The Manor of Balham. — This manor, anciently called Belgeham and Balgham, was formerly included in the parish of Streatham, though it is noticed in the Doomsday Book as if connected with Clapham. It then belonged to Geoffrey de Orlateile, who is stated to have held it without warrant from the King. The cultivation of the land Y 2 164 HISTORY OF SURREY. had probably been neglected after the Conquest, as the manor was valued at £6 in the reign of Edward the Confessor, and afterwards at only 20s.; but when in Orlateile's possession its worth is said to have been £2. Nigel de Mandeville (a younger son of Goisfrid de Mandeville, who held Clapham at the time of the survey) gave 2 hides of land in Balgham to the Cluniac monks of Bermondsey in 1103. In the reign of Stephen this manor appears to have belonged to Pharamus de Bolonia, Lord of Clapham, whose daughter and heiress, Sibil de Tingria, confirmed a grant of 1 hide of land in Balgham, belonging to the manor of Clapham, made by one of her ancestors to the Abbey of Bee, in Normandy.* In 33 Henry VIII. John Simondes obtained a Crown lease for twenty-one years of lands, meadows, and pastures, called Balams, in the parishes of Streatham and Clapham ; and from the Patent Eolls of 2 & 3 Philip and Mary it appears that Balham, with other estates, was granted for life to Ann Seymour, Duchess of Somerset, widow of the Protector Somerset, executed in the preceding reign. In 1587 or 1588 Queen Elizabeth granted " the farm of Balams, in Streatham," to Edward Williams on lease ; and in 16 Charles I. William Smith died seized of a messuage so called, which he had lately purchased of Nathaniel Bostock. At the commencement of the last century this manor came into the possession of the Du Cane family. In 1855 the hamlet of Balham was formed into an ecclesiastical parish out of the civil parish of Streatham. The Church op St. Mary, Balham Hill, on the Tooting road, was originally a proprietary chapel-of-ease; it was erected in 1807, and opened in 1809. It is a plain brick building. The living is now a vicarage, in the gift of the Eeetor of Streatham. In this neighbourhood are numerous villas, chiefly occupied by opulent merchants and tradesmen of London. The mansion and estate called Bedpord House was conveyed in 1802, under the designation of Cowy's or Charrington's Farm, and then consisting of nearly 166 acres of land, with appurtenances, by the Bedford family to Thomas Graham and James Graham, Esqs., partly in trust ; and it was eventually transferred to the late Eichardson Borradaile, Esq., who erected the present house, with suitable offices, &c. In 1843 the devisees of that gentleman conveyed the estate to Eobert Hudson, Esq., of Clapham, by whom, shortly afterwards, it was sold to Mr. Cubitt. It is now the seat of William Grantham, Esq., Q.C., M.P. for East Surrey. Most of the land in this neighbourhood is in a state of rapid transition from agricultural to building purposes.t * Nichols, " Account of Ahen Priories," vol. i. pp. 164 — 167. t In Lysons's " Environs of London," vol. i. pp. 489—491, will be found a memoir of a former native of Streatham, named Russell, who, like the celebrated Chevalier D'Eon, although a man, was always habited and known as a woman. He died 1772, when his true sex was discovered. BARNES. 165 BARNES. This parish is bounded on the north by the river Thames, on the east and south by Putney, and on the west by Mortlake and Putney. The ancient name of this place was Bernes, or Berne, the latter term, according to Lysons, signifying " a barn." The soil in general is gravelly, especially towards the west, adjacent to the parish of Putney ; but near the river is some rich meadow land. The entire parish contains 895 acres. Water is found here near the surface, as might be expected from the vicinity of the Thames and the nature of the soil, which is sand and gravel. Several large reservoirs, constructed near the river at Barnes within these few years by the West Middlesex Water Works Company, are contrived to purify the Thames water by filtration. The principal landholders are the Hon. William Lowther, Joseph Heath, Esq., and Henry Browne Alexander, Esq. This manor was given to the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's by King Athelstan. It is thus described in the Doomsday Book : — " The Canons of St. Paul's, London, hold Berne. In the time of King Edward it was assessed at 8 hides, which were included in the rate with the Archbishop's manor of Mortlake, as they are at present. There are 6 carucates of arable land. Two carucates are in demesne; and there are nine villains, and four bordars with 3 carucates; and 20 acres of meadows. In the time of King Edward it was valued at £6 : now, at £7." In the Taxation of Pope Nicholas, about 1291, the manor is valued as the property of the canons at £12. In the reign of Edward II. the canons obtained from the King a charter of free -warren* and an exemption from the charge of purveyance. The estate has been generally let on lease for long terms. In 1467 Sir John Saye and others were lessees of this manor, which they held with the advowson, and presented to the living that year, and again in 1471 and 1477. Both the manor and advowson had been transferred, in or before 1480, to Thomas Thwayte, Chancellor of the Exchequer and of the Duchy of Lancaster. In 19 Henry VII. a lease was granted to Sir Henry Wiatt, and in 1513 and 1524 Sir Henry presented to the living as patron and grantee of the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's. Thomas Smyth, Esq., purchased the remainder of Wiatt's lease, and held it in 1567, soon after which he sold his interest in this estate to Sir Francis Walsing- * From the Patent Rolls of 10 Henry IV. it appears that the Archbishop of Canterbury was entitled to a sparrow-hawk (esperverium), or 2s. in money annually, and also £2 every twentieth year, for ever, from the lords of the manor of Barnes, belonging to the Canons of St. Paul's, that they might be excused from serving the office of reeve in his manor of Wimbledon. l66 HISTORY OF SURREY. ham, Secretary of State to Queen Elizabeth, who resided at Barn-Elms, where he enter tained her Majesty in 1589. Previously to that visit the Queen had taken a lease of the manor from the Dean and Chapter, to commence from the termination (1600) of the lease granted to Henry Wiatt, and by deed dated in her twenty-first year she assigned her interest to Walsingham and his heirs. That statesman died at his house in Seething Lane, London, in 1590; and, as Stow relates, ¦'-< he was, about tenne of the clocke in the next night following, buried in Paul's church, without solemnities * Frances, sole surviving daughter and heiress of Walsingham, was thrice married :, first, to the celebrated Sir Philip Sidney ; secondly, fo Eobert, Earl of Essex, the unfortunate favourite of Queen Elizabeth ; and, after his death, to the Earl of Clanricarde. Essex occasionally resided -at Barn-Elms, and Lady Walsingham, his mother-in-law, died there in 1602, and was buried privately on the following night, near her husband's remains, in St. Paul's Cathedral. In 1639 the Dean and Chapter granted a new lease of this manor for twenty-one years to John Cartwright, Esq., who, when the Church property was exposed for sale by the Parliament, purchased the estate, and Eichard Shute, Esq., of London, bought the manor and advowson. After the Eestoration of Charles II. the Dean and Canons recovered their interest, and Mr. Cartwright, - or his representatives, held it on lease as before. In the reign of George II. John James Heydegger, a native of Switzerland, Master of the Eevels at court, resided at Barn-Elms, probably as under-tenant of the Cartwright family, and here he made entertainments for his royal patron. In the last century Eichard Hoare, Esq. (son of Sir Eichard Hoare, Knt., and Lord Mayor of London in 1745), became lessee of Barnes. He was created a Baronet in 1786, and succeeded by his only son, Sir Eichard Colt Hoare, Bart., who enlarged the mansion and made many improvements here. About 1827 his interest was sold to the Hammersmith Bridge Company, but it was afterwards transferred to Sir Thomas Colebrooke, Bart. Barn-Elms was occupied for some years by the late Sir Lancelot Shadwell, Vice- Chancellor ; it is now in the occupation of Henry Davis Pochin, Esq. Its situation is extremely pleasant, near the banks of the Thames, and the home scenery is rendered picturesque by many fine elms and other trees. Near Barn- Elms was a house which belonged to Jacob Tonson the elder, bookseller and secretary to the Kit-Cat Club. The meetings were at one period held here, in an * Chronicle, p. 1263. Lysons remarks that " he died so poor that his friends were obliged to bury him iu the most private manner ; " and, in confirmation of his statement, he observes " that no certificate of his funeral appears to have been entered at the Herald's College, as was usual when any person of consequence was interred in the manner suitable to his rank." — Environs, vol. i. pp. 12, 13. 3£l£s-5-ffi4.y-t9S-^d!£-i-3i^ ^ BARNES. ,67 apartment erected by Mr. Tonson for their accommodation, and which a few years after Avas ornamented with portraits of the members, painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller* On January 17th, 1667-8, a sort of battle-royal between three combatants on either side took place in a close near Barn-Elms. The parties were George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, attended by Sir Eobert Holmes and Captain William Jenkins ; Francis Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, attended by Sir John Talbot, a gentleman of the King's Privy Chamber, and M.P. for Knaresborough; and Bernard Howard, a younger son of the Earl of Arundel. Pepys, in reference to this " duell," as he terms it, says it was all "about my Lady Shrewsbury, at that time and for a great while before a mistress to the Duke of Buckingham, and so her husband challenged him, and they met ; and my Lord Shrewsbury was run through the body, from the right breast through the shoulder ; and Sir John Talbot all along up one of his armes ; and Jenkins killed upon the place, and the rest all in a little measure wounded." j- A pardon under the great seal, dated on February the 5th following, was granted to all the persons concerned in this tragical affair, the result of which proved more disastrous than had at first been anticipated, for Lord Shrewsbury died in consequence of his wound in the course of the same year. Advowson, &c. — Barnes is a rectory and rural deanery in the diocese of Eochester (to which it has lately been transferred) ; but the living is still in the gift of the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's. In the Taxation of Pope Nicholas it is valued at £14 6s. 8d. ; * The " Memoirs of the Celebrated Persons composing the Kit-Cat Club," with a prefatory account of the origin of the institution, were published in folio in 1821, illustrated with forty-eight portraits engraved from Kneller's paintings. Walpole, speaking of the works ^ of this artist in his "Anecdotes of Painting," says, "The Kit-Cat Club, generally mentioned as a set of wits, were, in reality, the patriots that saved Britain." This club " had its beginning about the time of the trial of the seven bishops in the reign of James II., and consisted of the most eminent men who opposed the measures of that arbitrary monarch." Charles, Earl of Dorset, was one of the first who engaged in its formation ; it then consisted of thirty-nine members, and none were admitted but those of high distinction and talent. They originally met at a house in Shire Lane, near Temple Bar, and, as some writers say, afterwards at the abode of Christopher Cat, who kept the Fountain Tavern in the Strand. However this might be, there seems no doubt that a man of the name of Christopher Cat, either as a pastrycook or as a tavern-keeper, furnished them with such delicious mutton pies that they became a stand ing chsh at the meetings of the club, which at length, from the maker of these morceaux, obtained the name of the Kit- Cat Club. As Tonson's room at Barnes, where the club often dined, and where the portraits were originally intended to. be placed, was not lofty enough for what are called half-length pictures, a shorter canvas was used (viz. 36 inches long and 28 inches wide), but sufficiently long to admit a hand. This occasioned the Kit-Cat size to become a technical term in painting for such as were of similar dimensions and form. Manning notices a very old house on Barnes Green which was sometime the residence of Henry Fielding, the celebrated author of " Tom Jones." It was called Milbourne House from a family of the name, of whom William Millebourne, Esq., was buried in the chancel at Barnes in 1415, and represented by an incised brass in plate armour. t " Diary," vol. iv. p. 15. During the fight the Countess of Shrewsbury is reported to have held the Duke's horse in the dress of a page. This lady was Anna Maria Brudenell, daughter of Robert, Earl of Cardigan. She survived both her gallant and her first husband, and was married, secondly, to George Rodney Brydges, son of Sir Thomas Brydges, of Keynsham, in Somersetshire : she died on the 20th of April, 1702. ,68 HISTORY OF SURREY. and in the King's books at £9 3s. 4d., paying 6s. 8d. for procurations, and, according to Ecton, 6s. 8d. to the lord of the manor. This benefice was formerly a vicarage ; but in 1388 the canons, who held the advowson, endowed it with the great tithes. Under the Commutation Acts the rent-charge has been fixed at £315 per annum, in lieu of tithes. The Eegister is among the most ancient in the kingdom, as the entries commence in 1538, immediately after the appointment of such records by Lord Cromwell* Rectors of Barnes in and since 1800 : — 1. — J0hn Jeffreys, M.A. Instituted in 1795. 2.— Reginald Edward Copleston, M.A. Instituted in 1840.t * Among the entries in the Register are the foUowing : — "Robert Beale, Counsellor of the north, and dark of the privy council, departed out of this life on Monday at eight of the clock at night, being the 25th of May, and is buried in London, 1601." This gentleman married a sister of Lady Walsingham, and having been introduced to Queen Ehzabeth, obtained official employments, and became one of her principal confidants. Her Majesty repeatedly intrusted him with her negotiations with Mary, Queen of Scots, and being appointed the messenger of her fate to that princess, he read the warrant for her execution on the scaffold at Fotheringhay Castle, and was a witness of her decapitation. " Aug. 23, 1672, buried Mr. Hiam." The person thus designated was properly named Abiezer Coppe. He was a native of Warwick, and was educated at Oxford, but after having been a Presbyterian, and then an Anabaptist, he became one of the wildest enthusiasts of the fanatical period in which he hved. He published several -pamphlets with odd titles and strange contents. He was sent to Newgate in 1650 for having pubhshed one entitled " The Fiery Flying Roll," the writer of which apparently was a fitter subject for a madhouse than a prison. After being confined more than a year he was called before the House of Commons, and having obtained his hberation, he retired to Barnes, where he practised as a physician, under the name of Higham, and he preached occasionaUy at the neighbouring conventicles. " June 10, 1697, Mrs. Ann Baynard buried." Mrs. Baynard was interred under a tomb at the east end of the churchyard, of which there were no traces remaining at the close of the last century ; but Aubrey has preserved the following epitaph, which was inscribed on it : — Here hes that happy maiden, who often said, That no man is happy until he is dead ; That the business of hfe is but playing the fool, Which hath no relation to saving the soul ; : For aU the transaction that's under the sun, -\ Is doing of nothing, — if that be not done : > AU wisdom and knowledge does lye in this one. ' Ann Baynard obiit Jun. 12, ann. aetat. suae 25, Christi 1697. O mortales ! quotusquisque vestrum cogitet ! ex hoc momento pendet seternitas. Mrs. Baynard has been eulogized by George Ballard in his " Memoirs of Learned Ladies," and likewise in a funeral eermon preached at Barnes, June 16th, 1697, by the Rev. John Prude, M.A. From these authorities it appears that she was weU skilled in natural philosophy, botany, mathematics, and classical literature, and that she understood Greek and Latin, having studied the former of those languages in order that she might be able to read the works of St. John Chrysostom in the original. She was the only chhd of Dr. Edward Baynard, an eminent physician. + Among the clergymen who held this hving in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries were several who deserve notice on account of their literary reputation, viz. : — Hezekiah Burton, D.D., was a FeUow of Magdalen CoUege, Cambridge, where he acquired much renown as an academical tutor. He was instituted Rector of Barnes in 1680, but died of a malignant fever in 1681, and was interred in Barnes Church. Dr. Burton chiefly distinguished himseU by his endeavours to reconcUe the Protestant Dissenters to the Episcopal Establishment in the reign of Charles II. His Sermons were edited by his friend Dr. Tillotson in 1684, with a biographical prefatory memoir. Francis Hare, D.D., was educated at Eton and King's CoUege, Cambridge. He became residentiary of St. Paul's, BARNES. i5g 3.— Henry Melvill, B.D. Instituted in 1863. 4.— Peter Goldsmith Medd, M.A. Instituted in 1870. 5.— John Ellerton, M.A. Instituted in 1876. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, was an ancient structure, erected in or before the reign of Eichard I., Avhen a hospital having been founded within the liberties of St. Paul's Cathedral by one of the canons, the Dean and Chapter bestowed on it the church of Barnes, with the glebe and tithes. So many alterations have been made at various times that scarcely any part of the original building now remains. The church was considerably enlarged in 1786 and 1787 : further additions were afterwards made, and the walls stuccoed. The tower is supposed to have been built about the latter part of the fifteenth century, and has a staircase and turret at the south-east angle. It is of brick, with stone quoins, repaired with cement, and contains three bells. The interior, which consists of nave, chancel, and north aisle, contains about 520 pews and sittings, of Avhich seventy are free. Against the north wall is a handsome monument in white marble, representing a mourning female leaning upon an urn, and holding a medallion of Sir Eichard Hoare, Bart., who died in 1787. His second wife and relict, Dame Frances Anne Hoare, who erected this memorial, died in 1800. On the south side of the church, in a recess between two buttresses enclosed by wooden rails, a few rose-trees are cultivated, in pursuance of the will of Mr. Edward Eose, citizen of London, who died in 1653, as stated on a small tablet affixed to the church wall. He bequeathed to the parish of Barnes the sum of £20 for the purchase of an acre of land, from the rent of which the churchwardens were enjoined to keep in repair the paling of the enclosure, and maintain a succession of rose-bushes : the surplus funds to be applied for the benefit of the poor. In the churchyard are numerous tombs and other sepulchral memorials, some of which are decorated. and was instituted to the rectory of Barnes in 1717, and he held the hving during ten years. Dr. Hare was also Dean of Worcester : in 1727 he was raised to the bishopric of St. Asaph, and in 1731 translated to that of Chichester. He died in 1740. The works of this prelate were pubhshed in four vols. 8vo. His chief literary production was an edition of the Comedies of Terence. John Hume, D.D., held the living of Barnes from 1747 to 1758, when he was promoted to the bishopric of Bristol. Thence, in the same year, he was translated to the see of Oxford, and in 1766 to that of Salisbury. He died in 1782. Ferdinando Warner, LL.D., obtained the rectory of Barnes on the resignation of Dr. Hume in 1758. His principal production was an " Ecclesiastical History of England, from the earhest Accounts to the present [eighteenth] Century,'' 1759, two vols. foho. He published other works on History, and likewise on Divinity, and, besides these, a " Treatise on the Gout," with an account of a pecuhar method he had adopted in his own case. Yet the disease he had professed to cure proved fatal to him. He died in 1768. Christopher Wilson, D.D., was presented to this benefice on the decease of Dr. Warner. He was a Prebendary of Westminster, and in 1785 was raised to the see of Bristol, over which he presided until his decease in 1792. VOL. III. Z ,170 HISTORY OF SURREY. A district church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, has been erected by subscription, in Castlenau, near Hammersmith Bridge. The principal portion of this village faces the river, forming a long range of good houses intersected with gardens. Hence a long street extends to Barnes Common, around which are many cottages and villas. Here, too, is the National School, with accommo dation for about 100 children. On Barnes Common is a station on the Eichmond and Windsor branch of the South- Western Eailway. The Hammersmith Suspension Bridge. — Between the river shore in this parish and Hammersmith, in Middlesex, a chain suspension bridge was constructed across the Thames by a company of shareholders, who were incorporated by an Act of Parliament passed in 1824, and empowered to raise money, levy tolls, &c. The designs were made by Mr. Tierney Clarke, civil engineer, and the bridge was erected under his superintendence, the contract for the ironwork having been taken by Captain Brown, E.N. In 1825 the first stone was laid with great ceremony by his late Eoyal Highness the Duke of Sussex, Grand Master of the Freemasons, and the bridge was completed and opened in 1827. At this point the river is 750 feet wide, and the chains are suspended by two strong intermediate towers of stone, each about 153 feet from the shore, and having an extent of water-way between them of 400 feet. These towers rise to the height of nearly 64 feet above high- water mark, and 42 feet above the level of the roadway, over which they form arches of the Tuscan order. Eight chains of wrought iron pass over these towers, and are firmly bolted into solid granite abutments on either shore. In the centre, these chains, which support the roadway by means of vertical rods, make a dip, or curvature, of about 29 feet. The floor of the roadway is formed by strong timbers, on which the pavement is laid. The total weight of the ironwork is 472 tons. About £80,000 were expended hi the construction of this bridge. Of late years this bridge has been closed on the day of the University Boat Eace, as unsafe for the large crowds which used to occupy it. About the middle of the last century the culture of the cedar of Lebanon was carried on to a great extent at Barnes by a butcher named Clarke, who first raised his plants from the cones of the great tree at Hendon Place. The late Mr. Peter Collinson, from whose autobiographical notes we derive this information, and who, in 1761, paid £79 6s. for a thousand of these young cedars for replanting in the Duke of Eichmond's park at Good wood, in Sussex, says that Mr. Clarke " succeeded perfectly, and annually raised them in such quantities, that he supplied the nurserymen, as well as abundance of noblemen and gentlemen, with cedars of Lebanon ; and he succeeded not only in cedars, but he had a great knack in raising the small magnolia, Warner's Cape jessamine, and all other exotio BATTERSEA. ij1 seeds. He built a large stove for pine-apples, &c." — ( Vide Transactions of the Zinncean Society, vol. x. pp. 274-5.) Mr. Collinson further states that the weeping willow, "the original of all the weeping willows in our gardens, Avas transplanted from the river Euphrates by Mr. Vernon, Turkey merchant at Aleppo, brought with him to England, and planted at his seat at Twickenham-park," Avhere he saw it growing in 1748. — Id. BATTERSEA. This parish is situated about three miles from Westminster Bridge. The Thames bounds it on the north, while it adjoins Lambeth on the east, Camberwell, Streatham, and Clapham on the south, and Wandsworth on the west. But besides that portion of Battersea parish within these limits, there is a detached district, forming the hamlet of Penge, between Beckenham, in Kent, on the east, and Norwood on the west. A great part of Wands worth Common belongs to this parish, as also does that division of Clapham Common called Battersea Eise. Its name was anciently written Battrics-ey, and in the Doomsday Book Patrices-ey, probably a mistake for Petrice-ey, and signifying St. Peter's Isle, the termination ey, from the Saxon eye, often occurring in the names of places adjacent to great rivers, as Putney, Moulsey, &o, near the banks ofthe Thames. The manor is thus described in the Doomsday Book among the lands belonging to the Abbot of Westminster : — " St. Peter of Westminster holds Patricesy. Earl Harold held it, and it was then assessed at 72 hides ; now at 18 hides. The arable land is . Three carucates are in demesne ; and there are forty-five villains, and sixteen bordars, with 14 carucates. There are eight bondmen : and seven mills at £42 9s. 8d., and a corn-rent of the same amount ; and 82 acres of meadow; and a wood yielding fifty swine for pannage. There is in Southwark one bordar (belonging to this manor); paying 12d. From the toll of Wendelesorde (Wandsworth) is received the sum of £6. A villain having ten swine pays to the Lord one ; but if he has a smaller number, nothing. One knight holds 4 hides of this land; and the money he pays is included in the preceding estimate. The entire manor, in the time of King Edward, Avas valued at £80 ; afterwards at £30 ; and now at £75 9s. 8d. King William gave this manor to St. Peter in exchange for Windsor. The Earl of Moreton holds 1^ hides of land, .which in King Edward's time, and afterwards, belonged to this manor. Gilbert the Priest holds 3 hides under the same circumstances. The Bishop of Lisieux had 2 hides, of which the church (of Westminster) was seised in the time of King William, and disseised by the Bishop of Bayeux. The Abbot of z 2 1 72 HISTORY OF SURREY. Chertsey holds 1 hide, which the Bailiff of this vill, out of ill-will [to the Abbot of Westminster?] detached from this manor, and appropriated it to Chertsey." * Spelman (" Glossarium," p. 79), under the word Beretoica, states that it means the member of a manor disjoined from- the main body, as a vill, or hamlet, and he quotes a passage from the Eegister of Sulcardus, a monk of Westminster, stating that William the Conqueror gave to the abbey Batrichesey, with the Berewic {cum Berewico) adjoining it named Wendlesworde, or Wandsworth, f Many grants of privileges, in respect to their manor of Battersea, were made by different sovereigns to the Abbots of Westminster : among them was an exemption, made by Stephen, from tax for 6^ hides in his manor of Westminster, in which stood his aula, or palace, and also for 44 hides in Patrichesea ; but the remainder of that manor was to be liable to all taxes to the King. After the suppression of monasteries this manor remained vested in the Crown until Elizabeth granted it on a lease for tAventy-one years to Henry Eoyden; and in 1593, Joan, the only daughter of Henry Eoyden, had another lease for a similar term. Subject to this lease, the manor, in 1610, was assigned towards the maintenance of Henry, Prince of Wales : after his decease it was appropriated in the same manner to his brother, Prince Charles, who granted it, in 1627, in fee to Oliver, Lord St. John, and Viscount Grandison of Limerick, in Ireland. That nobleman, second son of Nicholas St. John, of Lidiard Tregoze, Wilts, had married the above Joan after the decease of Sir William Holcroft, her first husband. In 1626 he was made an English peer, with the title of Baron St. John, of Lidiard Tregoze. On his decease without issue in J. 630, the English title became extinct, but that of Grandison descended to his grand-nephew, William Villiers, father of the notorious Duchess of Cleveland. The Battersea estate also came into the hands of Villiers, who granted it to his cousin, Sir John St. John, Bart., who died in 1648. Oliver, the eldest son of that gentleman, having died before him, this manor deArolved on his grandson, John St. John, a minor, on whose decease without issue the baronetcy and family estate * The 1 £ hides of land held by the Earl of Moreton were probably the same that are stated, in the account ot the Earl's manor of Streatham, to have been held by Harold. The land held by the Bishop of Lisieux no doubt was Peckham, mentioned among the estates of Bishop Odo, and expressly said to have been held by Harold in the reign of the Confessor, to which it is added that it lay in Battersea. The land in the tenure of the Abbot of Chertsey may have been at Tooting, where Haimo the sheriff held 1 hide of the abbot which had been held of King Edward by Osward, who could remove whither he pleased. t The foUowing document relative to this grant, or transfer, has been pubhshed in Dugdale's " Monasticon," from a manuscript in the Cottonian Library, viz. "Cartularium Cenobii Westmonasteriensis," Faust. A. hi. fol. 112, b : — " AVillem king gret Stigan Arcebiscop & Eustaties EorU, & alle mine thegnes on Surrejie freondlice & ice kithe eow that ice habbe se unnen that land at Batericheseye & Piriford to Crist and Saint Petre into AVestminstre, swa full & swa ford swa Harold is firmist hafte on alien thingen thas dage the he was cwicu & dead," BATTERSEA. 173 became vested in Sir Walter St. John, his uncle, " eminent for his piety and moral virtues." He died in 1708, and was succeeded by his son Henry, who long previously had pleaded guilty of the murder of Sir William Estcourt, Bart., in a sudden quarrel arising at a supper party. This case, however, if the account given by Bishop Burnet be correct, could be regarded only as manslaughter; but he was induced to plead guilty of the greater crime by a promise of pardon if he followed that advice, or of being subjected to the utmost rigour of the law on his refusal. No pardon is enrolled, but it is stated that the King granted him a reprieve for a long term of years ; and in the Eolls Chapel is a restitution of his estates (Pat. 36 Charles II.), for which, and the reprieve conjoined, it would seem he had to pay £16,000, one-half of which, Burnet says, " the King converted to his own use, and bestowed the remainder on two ladies then high in favour." * In 1716 this gentleman was created Baron St. John of Battersea, and Viscount St. John, with remainder to the issue male of his second marriage with Angelique Magdaleine Pillesary (his only son by his first wife being then under attainder) ; and, on his decease in 1742, his titles descended to John St. John, his eldest surviving son by that lady. By his first wife, Mary, daughter and coheiress of Eobert Eich, Earl of Warwick, Henry, Viscount St. John, had only one son, Henry, born at Battersea in 1678. In 1710 he became Secretary of State to Queen Anne, by whom, in 1713, he was created Baron St. John of Lidiard Tregoze, and Viscount Bolingbroke, a title to which he gave celebrity by his abilities as a philosopher and a statesman. He was attainted of treason, for intriguing with the partisans of the Pretender, on the accession of George I., and having fled to France, he entered into the service of the Chevalier de St. George, which after a time he relinquished, and in 1723, having been restored in blood, he returned to England. In 1725 an Act of Parliament was passed to annul the attainder so far as to enable him to inherit the family estate, in consequence of which, on the decease of his father, he became possessed of the Battersea property, and held it until his death in 1751. He was twice married, but had no issue by either of his consorts ; and Battersea, with his other estates, as well as his titles, descended to his nephew Frederick (son of his half-brother John, Viscount St. John), by whom this manorial property was sold, in pursuance of an Act of Parliament obtained in 1762, to the trustees of John, Earl Spencer, to whose descendant, the present Earl Spencer, it now belongs. Bolingbroke House, the seat of the St. John family, was a large mansion standing near the church, and said to have contained forty rooms on a floor. It was mostly pulled down about 1777, and some years afterwards a horizontal air-mill of a peculiar construction * Burnet, " History of his own Times," fol. 1724, vol. i. p. 600. i.7+ HISTORY OF SURREY. was erected on the site of the demolished part, for the grinding of linseed for oil. It was afterwards used for grinding malt to supply the distillery of Messrs. Hodgson & Co., by whom, on the site of the gardens and terrace, extensive bullock houses were built, capable of receiving 650 head of cattle, which, were fattened with the grains from the distillery mixed with meal. This establishment was relinquished many years since, and the upper part of the mill and other buildings were taken doAvn. The lower part of the mill, still standing, now forms portion of a flour-mill. Much of the old mansion yet remains, including an oak-panelled room, known as " Pope's Parlour," in which it is said that Pope wrote his "Essay on Man." Some of the up-stair rooms have ceilings richly ornamented with stucco-work and allegorical paintings. York House, Battersea. — In the reign of Henry VI. , Thomas, Lord Stanley, possessed a considerable estate in " Batrichesey, Wandsworth, and Wassingham," which, possibly to avoid its confiscation, he conveyed to trustees, for his own benefit, and that of Thomas, his son and heir. In 1460 the trustees transferred this property to Lawrrence Bothe, or Booth, Bishop of Durham, and his heirs, and in the following year the grant Avas confirmed by Lord Stanley and his son. Notwithstanding this conveyance, we find that the Stanley estate had escheated to the Crown before 11 Edward IV., in consequence of John Stanley having assigned these lands and tenements in trust to the Abbot of Westminster, in contravention of the Statute of Mortmain. The Bishop in consequence found it necessary to apply to the King, and, on the payment of £700, he obtained a grant, under letters-patent dated 1472, of six messuages, 100 acres of land, 30 of meadow, and 20 of pasture, with all rents, services, hereditaments, &c, in the above places, forfeited by John Stanley. He had also the King's license to enclose his mansion-house called Brygge Court, which he had built at Battersea, " with walls and towers, and to impark his land there, with the right of free warren and free chace therein." * Bishop Booth was translated to the archiepiscopal see of York in 1476, and prior to his decease in 1480 he bequeathed this property to the Dean and Chapter of York, with a view to the accommodation of his successors in the see, as an occasional residence when visiting London. But few of these prelates have ever resided here ; and of these, Archbishop Holgate, who was imprisoned and deprived by Queen Mary for being a married man, lost much property by illegal seizure. f * Patent Rolls, 14 Edw. IV. n. 2. t In Strype's " Life of Cranmer," p. 308, it is stated that the officers employed to apprehend the Archbishop rifled his house at Battersea, and took away from thence £300 of gold coin ; 1,600 ozs. of plate ; a mitre of fine gold, with two pendants set round about the sides and middle with very fine pointed diamonds, sapphires, and balists, and all the plain with other good stones and pearls, and the pendants in like manner, weighing 125 ozs. ; some very valuable rings ; a serpent's tongue set in a standard of silver gilt, and graven ; the Archbishop's seal in silver ; and his signet, an antique in gold. BATTERSEA. '75 During the supremacy of the Parliament and suspension of episcopal rule York House and its appurtenances were sold to Sir Allen Apsley and Col. Hutchinson, his brother-in- law, for the sum of £1,806 3s. 6d., but they were reclaimed by the see after the Eestoration, and still belong to it. Since that event, and indeed from a much earlier period, this estate has been granted on lease for long terms to different persons. York House stood near the riverside, and its site is now occupied by Price's Candle Factory. Its name is kept in remembrance by York Eoad. A considerable part of Battersea, formerly occupied as market gardens, is now built upon, or covered by railways ; whilst various large manufacturing establishments, chemical works, foundries, &c, extend along the waterside. The establishment here for the preservation of timber from the dry-rot, called Kyanizing, from the name of its inventor, was destroyed by fire in 1847. On the river's bank, nearly opposite to the gardens of Chelsea Hospital, formerly stood a place of entertainment called the Bed House, which had long been a favourite resort of the patrons of aquatic sports and pigeon-shooting. The house stood in what was known as Battersea Fields, the whole of whieh has been converted into a fine park, with parterres and cricket grounds. The park covers 198 acres, and has sheets of ornamental water 23 acres in extent. At a short distance eastward are the reservoirs and engine-house of the Southwark and Vauxhall Water Company. The reservoirs cover nearly 18 acres of ground : two of them are used as filters, and are to a certain depth filled with sand, through Avhich the water percolates, leaving the impurities on tbe surface, to be removed at pleasure. Here are steam-engines of 500-horse power, which, by forcing up the water through perpendicular iron tubes to the height of 175 feet, raise it sufficiently to supply the inhabitants of Brixton and other elevated places. About 40 acres of land in this parish have lately been purchased for building purposes, and a large number of dwelling-houses for artisans have been erected upon the most improved sanitary principles : the block of houses is called the Shaftesbury Park Estate. The number of acres estimated and tithable in this parish is about 2,200. Eectory and Vicarage. — About 1159, Laurence, Abbot of Westminster, obtained the appropriation of the great tithes for his monastery, out of which the monks were to receive 2 marks, and sufficient reserved to support the vicar. In the Taxation of Nicholas, 1291, the rectory was rated at 26^- marks, or £17 13s. 4d., and the vicarage at 6 marks and 40d., or £4 3s. 4d. In the King's books this benefice, which is in the deanery of Southwark, is valued at £13 15s. 2^d. Queen Elizabeth granted the rectory and advowson 176 HISTORY OF SURREY. to Edward Downing and Peter Ashton, who " probably sold them to the St. Johns, and they have passed ever since with the manor, and now belong to Earl Spencer." * At the present time the rectorial rent-charge, including £2 on glebe, is £45, and the vicarial rent- charge £969 9s. 9d., exclusive of £10 16s. on a glebe of about 16 acres. The Eegisters commence in 1559, but are very imperfect in the former part of the last century. The following instances of longevity occur among the entries : — Goody Hazleton, aged 108 years, was buried Oct. 29, 1703. Wilham Abbots, setat. 101, buried Jan. 5, 1733. Oct. 1790, buried Wiat, aged 100 years. Dec. 27, 1803, buried AVilliam Douse, aged 100 years. Vicars of Battersea in and since 1800 : — l.—John Gardnor, M.A. Instituted in 1778. t 2. — Joseph Allen, D.D. (afterwards Bishop of Bristol and of Ely). Instituted in 1808. 3. — Hon. and Rev. Robert John Eden, M.A., Chaplain to the Queen (aftenvards Bishop of Sodor and Man, and of Bath and Wells). Instituted in 1834. 4. — James S. Jenkinson, M.A. Instituted in 1847. 5. — John Erskine Clarke. Instituted in 1872. Battersea Church, dedicated to St. Mary, is conspicuously situated on the banks of the river, at about a quarter of a mile above the bridge, but has no pretensions to architectural beauty. The present structure of brick with rustic quoins was erected in place of an older church, under the provisions of an Act of Parliament (14 Geo. III. cap. 95), and at a cost of something more than £5,000 : it was first opened in 1777. About 1823 an entrance portico, of the Doric order, was annexed to the tower at the west end. The tower is surmounted by a low, heavy-looking octagonal spire, and contains a clock and eight bells. At the east end is a recess for the communion-table, above which is a central window in three divisions, filled with old stained glass preserved from the former church, and executed at the expense of the St. Johns. It includes the half-length portraits of Henry VII., his grandmother, the Lady Margaret Beauchamp, and Queen Elizabeth, together with many enrichments and numerous shields of arms, showing the alliances of the family.J Ih 1877-8 the interior of this church was partially restored, being repaved, and reseated with open benches, in place of the old-fashioned pews. * Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. iii. pp. 334, 335. t The Rev. Mr. Gardnor was a somewhat clever artist, and a frequent exhibitor at the Royal Academy. t These emblazonments are fuUy described in Manning and Bray's " Surrey," voL ih. pp. 335, 336. BATTERSEA. 177 Among the memorials of the Bolingbrokes is that of Henry St. John, Viscount Bolingbroke (the friend of Swift, Pope, and Gay, and author of many political and metaphysical works),* who died in 1751, and his second lady, Mary Clara des Champs de Marcilly, Marchioness de Villette, niece of Madame de Maintenon : she died in 1750. This monument, which is of grey and white marble, was executed by Boubilliac. The upper part displays an urn with drapery, surmounted by the Viscount's arms, and the lower portion records the characters of the deceased, flanked by their medallions in profile in bas-relief. Another monument commemorates the descent and preferments of Oliver St. John, Viscount Grandison, &c, the first of his family that settled at Battersea. When a young man and studying the law at one of the Inns of Court, he became involved in a quarrel with Best, a captain of the guard to Queen Elizabeth, and champion of England, whom he killed in a duel in 1584. Obliged to leave the kingdom, he afterwards served in the army under Lord Vere, and eventually in Ireland, of which country, by the favour of Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, he was made both Lord Treasurer and Lord Deputy. He died in 1630. Joan, his lady, daughter of Sir Henry Boy don, Avas also buried here. They are represented on the monument, altered when replaced, by busts in white marble : above the inscription are the arms and quarterings of St. John, impaling Eoydon. The monument of Sir Edward Wynter, in the south gallery, has obtained much notice on account of the singular exploits recorded by the inscription and sculpture. He appears to have been a friendless but adventurous youth, who by his courage, diligence, and good conduct, became eminent as an East India merchant, and, as the epitaph states, Nor less in martial honour was his name, AVitness his actions of immortal fame ! Alone, unarm'd, a Tyger he oppress'd And crushed to death the monster of a beast. Twice twenty mounted Moors he overthrew ¦> Singly on foot, some wounded, some he slew, K Dispers'd the rest, — what more could Sampson do? ) True to his friends, a terror to his foes, Here now in peace his honour'd bones repose. At the top is a large bust of Sir Edward in a flowing peruke and lace cravat ; underneath the inscription are sculptures in low relief of his struggling with the "tyger" and his combat with the Moors. He died in 1685-6. At the east end of the south aisle is the monument of Sir John Fleet, Knt., Lord Mayor of London in 1693, and M.P. for that city during * It was to this nobleman that Pope addressed his " Essay on Man," written under his advice and recommendation, and partly composed in a " cedar parlour " of Bolingbroke House, fronting the Thames, reported to have been the poet's favourite study. VOL. III. A A 178 HISTORY OF SURREY. thirteen years. The inscription testifies that " He Avas a mercifull and just Magistrate, constant to the Church, loyall to his Prince, and true to his Country." He died in 1712. Near the above is a small statue of a mourning female leaning upon an urn. This was erected by the benevolent James Neild, a follower of John HoAvard in his endeavours to mitigate the evils of imprisonment, in memory of his wife Elizabeth, and of her father, John Camden, Esq. The former died in 1791, the latter in 1780. At the east end of the south aisle a neat tablet records the memory of Thomas Astle, Esq., F.S.A., Keeper of the Eecords in the Tower, and author of an ingenious work " On the Origin and Progress of Writing." He died in 1802. In the churchyard was buried in 1760 Arthur Collins, Esq., a laborious writer on genealogy and history, and author of " Collins's Peerage ; " and opposite the west porch is the gravestone of Mr. William Curtis, author of the "Flora Londinensis " and other botanical works, who died in 1799. The great increase in the population of this parish, and indeed all the suburban districts around London, during the last fifty or sixty years, has occasioned a necessity for additional places of worship. In 1827 a chapel-of-ease, dedicated to St. George, was erected about midway between Nine Elms and Battersea. The edifice, in the early lancet style, by Edward Blore, Esq., architect, was consecrated by the Bishop of Winchester in 1828. About £3,000 were expended on this building, which was partly defrayed by a grant, and partly by subscription. This church was enlarged in 1874. Christ Church, in Battersea Park Eoad, was built in 1847, from the designs of Messrs. Lee and Bury : it is a Gothic edifice, and contains sittings for 900 worshippers. St. John's Church, ITsk Eoad, is of early English architecture, and was consecrated in 1863. St. Saviour's, Battersea Park Eoad, was built in 1871, and is of early French Gothic design: it contains sittings for 700. St. Peter's, NeAvcommon Eoad, near Clapham Junction, is a Gothic brick building, and was completed in 1876. St. Philip's, Queen's Eoad, Battersea Park, was consecrated in 1870 : it is of decorated Gothic architecture, and was built from the designs of Mr. K. J. Knowles. In this parish, in the LoAver Wandsworth Eoad, an Anabaptist chapel was erected about 1829, in place of a smaller one originally built in 1738. Of the earlier congre gation little is known; but after the late Eev. Joseph Hughes became pastor here in 1794, the zeal, energy, learning, and eloquence which he displayed attracted so much attention that many of the neighbouring gentry were induced to join the assembly. His connection, also, with different local societies for the promotion of religious worship made him acquainted with Mr. Wilberforce, Mr. Vansittart, Mr. Perceval, and other gentlemen BATTERSEA. H9 of station and influence, by whose aid he established the Surrey Mission Society. At a meeting of the Eeligious Tract Society he afterwards promulgated the idea of an institution for supplying not only the inhabitants of the British Isles, but the whole world, with copies of the Holy Scriptures ; hence arose the Bible Society, of which Mr. Hughes Avas the active agent and secretary until his persevering exertions in the cause of religion were arrested by death in 1834. Besides the above, there are in this parish a church for Eoman Catholics, and places of worship for Wesleyans and other denominations. A large Board School was opened in this parish in 1874 for 1,000 children. The National Society's Training College. — This institution, designed for the training of young men to become schoolmasters, owes its origin to Dr. J. P. Kay (afterwards Sir J. P. Kay-Shuttleworth) and E. C. Tufhell, Esq., Assistant Poor-Law Commissioners, whom the ignorance and immorality of pauper children prompted to investigate and make trial of some means of securing to that large class of the community a better education. These gentlemen, lamenting the prevalent incompetency of the teachers intrusted with the education of the poor, resolved to make an effort for the production of a better description of schoolmasters. They accordingly visited Holland, Prussia, Switzerland, Saxony, Paris, &c, for the purpose of examining the operation of the establishments projected by Pestalozzi, De Fellenberg, and other enlightened promoters of the education of the poor ; and the result of their observations was a desire and hope to establish in this country a Normal School for imparting to young men that due amount of knowledge, and training them in those habits of simplicity and earnestness, which might render them useful instructors to the poor. With this view they were led to select "a spacious manor-house close to the Thames at Battersea, chiefly on account of the very frank and cordial welcome with which the suggestion of their plan was received by the vicar, the Hon. and Eev. E. Eden." That gentleman offered the use of his village schools in aid of the training school, as a sphere in which the Normal students might obtain practice and direction in the art of teaching. He also undertook to superintend the training school in all that related to religion. Boys were first obtained from the School of Industry at Norwood, and were intended to remain three years in training. With these were afterwards associated some young men whose period of residence was necessarily limited to one year. The institution, now known as St. John's College, was first put in operation at the commencement of 1840, and it continued under the direction of Dr. Kay and Mr. Tufhell, supported by their private means, and conducted in its various departments of instruction and industrial labour by a a 2 180 HISTORY OF SURREY. tutors and superintendents appointed by them, until the close of 1843 Avhen the establishment was put on a foundation of permanency by the directors transferring it into the hands of the National Society. Several continental modes of instruction had been adopted by Dr. Kay and Mr. Tufhell, such as Mulhauser's method of writing, Wilhem's method of singing, Dupuis' method of drawing, &c. ; and the results of their benevolent experiment were so satisfactory that a grant of £2,200 for the extension and improvement of the premises was made to them by the Committee of Council on Education, which grant Avas transferred to the National Society, and forthwith expended in the requisite alterations. New dormitories, a dining-hall, lavatories, &c, were then built, and in the early part of 1846 a large new class-room was erected and filled with every kind of apparatus for the use of the students. Penge, as stated above, is a hamlet of Battersea, although separated for ecclesiastical purposes. It contains several places of worship, schools, and public institutions, and the district is rapidly increasing in the number of its population. In Penge Lane is King William IV.'s Naval Asylum for decayed widows of naval officers. At Penge Common is an asylum for worn-out watermen and lightermen, erected in 1840, containing forty-one houses and a spacious committee-room. Battersea Bridge was erected in pursuance of an Act of Parliament of 6 Geo. III. cap. 66, obtained under the sanction of John, Earl Spencer, lord of the manor, and proprietor of a ferry across the Thames. It was built in 1771 — 1772, by the late Mr. Holland, at the expense of fifteen proprietors, each of whom subscribed £1,500. The roadway, slightly curved and guarded by iron railings, forms the communication between Battersea and the upper part of Chelsea. In 1873 this bridge passed from the descendants or friends of the original proprietors into the hands of the Albert Bridge Company by an Act of incorporation, and under this new management certain alterations have been effected upon it, notably in the improvement of the water-way at two points, by throwing into one the two centre openings, and also two near the northern end of the bridge. At a short distance eastward of the old bridge the river is spanned by the Alberi Suspension Bridge. This bridge, built about 1873, unites the roadway on the western side of Battersea Park with Chelsea Embankment and Cheyne Walk, close by Cadogan Pier. Farther eastward, the Victoria Bridge, another structure built on the suspension principle, connects Victoria Eoad, on the east side of the park, with Chelsea Bridge Eoad and Grosvenor Eoad. At Battersea Eise, forming the north-west extremity of Clapham Common, many MERTON. 181 commodious villas and superior houses have been built, this being considered a pleasant and respectable neighbourhood. On St. John's Hill, Battersea Eise, close by Clapham Junction station, is the Eoyal Freemasons' Girls' School. This institution was founded in 1788, and was originally located in St. George's Fields, Southwark. It was established for the purpose of educating and maintaining the daughters of poor or deceased Freemasons, and the school was removed hither in 1852. The edifice, a handsome red-brick building of Gothic architecture, was erected from the designs of Mr. Philip Hardwicke. In the parish of Battersea are stations on the London, Chatham, and Dover Eailway, and also on the West London line, which crosses the river by a bridge just above old Battersea Bridge. The Clapham Junction, used by several railways, is likewise in this parish. Near the eastern verge of the parish, at Nine Elms, the South- Western Eailway originally had its London terminus ; but, upon the extension of the line to the Waterloo Eoad in 1848, the old station was converted into a goods depot. The line, originally called the London and Southampton Eailroad, was commenced under the authority of an Act of Parliament, Avhich received the royal assent in 1834, and it was first opened as far as Woking Common in 1838. By their Act the company were empowered to raise £1,000,000 in £50 shares, and a further sum of £330,000 by loan. Since that time several additional Acts bave been passed, authorising the company to extend their line and increase their capital in nearly a fourfold proportion to its original amount. MERTON. This place, anciently called Mere-tone and Mere-dune, appears to have derived its name from lying adjacent to a mere, or marsh, of which there are yet traces near the river Wandle, which flows through the parish. On the south Merton is bounded by the parishes of Mitcham and Mordon, on the east by Mitcham and Tooting, on the north by Wimbledon, and on the west by Maldon and Kingston. The assassination of Kenulph, or Cynewulf, King of Wessex, in 784, and the battle between the Anglo-Saxons and the Danes in 871, in which King Ethelred was mortally wounded, are stated to have occurred at Meretune ; but whether Merton in Surrey be the place meant is questionable. Camden assigns the death of Kenulph to this Merton ; yet the more probable supposition is that Meretune, or Morden, in Wilts, a few miles south eastward of Devizes, was the scene of both transactions. The following account of this manor is given in the Doomsday Book : — 182 HISTORY OF SURREY. " The King holds Meretone, which had heen held by Earl Harold. It was then, as at present, assessed at 20 hides. The arable land amounts to 21 carucates. There are 2 carucates in demesne ; and fifty-six villains, and thirteen bordars, with 18 carucates. There is a Church ; and two mills yield 60s. ; and there are 10 acres of meadow. The wood yields 80 swdne. In the time of King Edward the manor was valued at £25 ; afterwards at £16 ; and now at £30 ; yet he who holds it (the tenant sc.) pays £43. "In Sudwerk (Southwark) there are sixteen messuages at 18s. 2d., pertaining to this manor. " Orcus holds 2 hides, which always lay in this manor, though they are in another hundred. He held this land in the time of King Edward, when it was assessed at 2 hides : now at nothing. There is 1 carucate in demesne ; and 2 acres of meadow. It has always been valued at 20s. " The Bishop of Lisieux holds 2 sowlings \Solini~] in Kent, which lay in this manor in the time of King Edward and King William, as the Homagers testify. Ho refers to the Bishop of Bayeux, as a vouchee, and his Bailiff therefore refuses to plead." * The principal manor, which belonged to the Crown, was given by Henry I. to a priory of Austin canons founded here in 1115 by Gilbert Norman, Sheriff of Surrey, and it continued to belong to that foundation until the reign of Henry VIII., when the monastic estates were surrendered to the King. In the last year of Philip and Mary the Queen refounded the Carthusian monastery of Shene, and by her letters-patent, dated 1558, granted this manor, with all its rights, members, and appurtenances, to that establishment. She survived this grant only three days, and on the final suppression of religious houses shortly after, under her sister Elizabeth, the whole reverted to the Crown. In March, 1609-10, James I., in consideration of the payment of £828 8s. 9d., transferred the manor and its appurtenances to Thomas Hunt, and his wife Joyce (with several remainders), to be held as of the manor of East Greenwich, in free and common socage, by fealty only, and not in chief, or by knight's service. But, by other letters- patent, dated 1616, King James granted this estate, in reversion and remainder, to Thomas Ford, of London, gent., his heirs and assigns for ever, to be held as before. In 1668 Nicholas Philpott, Esq., of Postan, in Herefordshire, held it in right of his wife Penelope, daughter of James Haward, Esq., of Fletherhill, co. of Pembroke. This lady survived her husband, and having afterwards married Sir Charles Hamilton, an Irish baronet, she became a second time a widow. She had by Mr. Philpott a son and daughter, by whom, after, the decease of their mother, this property was sold to John Dorril, Esq., who held a * The original is, " Ipse reclamat advocatum Episcop. Baiocens, et Praypositus suits inde noluit placitare." MERTON. '83 manorial court here in 1693. He died in 1720, leaving several children. His eldest son and successor in this estate, John Chambers Dorril, died in 1751 ; and his widow held this manor in dower until her death in 1784, when it descended to her grandson, John Chambers Dorril, Esq., who in 1801 sold it to John Hilbert, Esq., of Wandsworth. The old manor-house was pulled down about the end of the last century. John Innes, Esq., is the present lord of the manor. Merton Priory. — The first priory, erected by Gilbert Norman, was of timber, and Eobert Bayle, the sub-prior of a convent of Austin canons at Huntingdon, was appointed to preside over it by the founder, who also bestowed on him 2 carucates of land, a mill of 60s. rent, and certain villains, or tenants in villanage. This was in 1115, but about two years afterwards the founder was induced by Prior Bayle to remove the establishment to another site, and Avhen the new house Avas finished the prior and his brethren (fifteen in number) went thither in procession, singing Salve dies. ' In 1121, in consideration of £100 in silver and 6 marks of gold given by Gilbert Norman, the King granted the entire manor of Meretone, styled in the charter "Villa de Corona mea," with all the customs and privileges pertaining to it, as parcel of his royal demesne, to the canons here, to enable them to construct a church in honour of the Virgin Mary, &c* About 1130 the priory was first built of stone, the foundation being laid with great solemnity by Gilbert himself, the prior, and thirty-six brethren. The founder died in the same year, and was interred in the convent, the buildings of which appear to have been completed in 1136. Numerous and valuable benefactions were soon made to the new establishment, and several persons of rank became members of the fraternity. When Hubert de Burgh, the principal minister of Henry III., lost the favour of his Aveak and prodigal master, and had been accused of numerous high crimes and mis demeanours, he fled for sanctuary to Merton Abbey ; and having refused to quit his place of refuge, after being ordered to attend at a great Council, or Parliament, held at Lambeth, the King sent letters to the Mayor of London commanding him to proceed to Merton with the armed citizens, and bring Hubert before him either alive or dead. But on the representations of the Earl of Chester and the Bishop of Chichester of the great danger to the kingdom which might arise from such a tumultuary expedition, Henry recalled the mandate. Hubert de Burgh was afterwards obliged repeatedly to seek the protection of the Church, but he was ultimately pardoned. In 1236 a Parhament, or National Council, was held at Merton Abbey, when some enactments were made, since termed the " Statutes of Merton." It was in this Council that * Dugdale, " Monasticon Anglicanum," vol. vi. p. 247, edit. 1830. i84. HISTORY OF SURREY. — the prelacy having proposed to introduce the canon law, founded on the imperial constitutions, to supersede the common law of the realm — the barons made the memorable reply, " Nolumus leges Anglise mutare " (" We will not alter the laws of England ").* The Chronicles of Merton Abbey, which are in the Bodleian Library at Oxford, contain the Ordinations of William of Wykeham, Bishop of Winchester, for the government of this convent. One of the statutes prohibits the canons from hunting, or keeping dogs for that sport within the walls of the priory, " on pain of being restricted to a diet of bread and ale during six holidays." The punishments are, in general, of a similar description, the severest being a compulsory abstinence from all food but bread and water, and the slightest, confinement to an allowance of bread, ale, and pulse. In a visitation of the priory by Henry de Woodlock, Bishop of Winchester, the canons are censured for not attending mass, and for going about with bows and arrows, and they are menaced Avith punishment by restriction with regard to food. Charters relating to new donations, or to confirmations of grants of lands and privileges, were obtained by the canons of Merton, not only from Henry I., but also from Henry II., Eichard I., John, Henry III., Edward I., Edward II., Edward III., Eichard II., Henry IV., Henry V., and Henry VI. Lysons says that " the Prior of Merton had a seat in Parliament as a mitred abbot." The celebrated Thomas a Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury, was educated in the priory school; also Walter de Merton, Bishop of Eochester and Chancellor of England, the illustrious founder of Merton College, Oxford, Avho, born in this village, and dying in 1277, was buried in Eochester Cathedral. Priors of Merton : — 1.— Eobert Bayle, appointed in 1117. IS,.— William de Brokesboum, or Brykesborn, prior in 2. — Eobert, second prior of that name. 1307. 3.— William. 13.— Thomas de Kenton, prior in 1335. 4.— Stephen. 20.— John de Lutlyngton, or Littleton, prior in 1339. 5.— Robert, third prior so named. 21.— William Freeston, elected in 1345. 6.— Richard, prior from 1190 to 1198. 22.— Geoffrey de Chaddesley, next prior. 7. — Walter succeeded him. 23.— Robert de Wyndesore became prior the same year. 8.— Thomas Wllst. 24.— Michael Kympton, D.D., in 1403. 9. — Ralph de Gilling, chosen prior in 1223. 25. — John Romeney next prior. 10. — Giles de Bourne, elected the same year. 26. — Thomas Schirfeld succeeded Romeney. 11.— H. de Basyng. 27.— William Kent. 12. — Robert de Hexham, or de Hegham, installed in 28. — John Kingston, D.D. 1239. 29. — John Gisburne, chosen in 1485. 13. — Eustachius. 30— William Salyng, or Seiling, elected in 1502. 14. — Gilbert de Ashe held the office of prior forty years. 31. — John Lacy, elected in 1520. 15. — Nicholas Gregory. 32. — John Ramsay, elected in 1530. 16.— Edmund de Herierd, elected in 1296. 33.— John Bowie, B.D., Fellow of All Souls College 17. — GeoffreydeAlkmundbury,zp])omte&-pTdoiin.l306. Oxford, surrendered the priory iu 1538.t * Matt. Paris, "Hist. Angl." pp. 364, 365. t Dugdale, "Mona'sticon Anglicanum," vol. vi. pp. 245, 246, edit. 1830. MERTON. 185 The armorial bearings attributed to this monastery by Bishop Tanner are — Or, a fret of six pieces, as., charged at each juncture with an eagle displayed, arg. In the " Aspilogia " of John Anstis, Garter King-at-Arms, there is a draAving from a fine seal impression (represented by the annexed woodcuts) affixed to an indenture made between Gilbert, Prior of Merton, and Alan, Prior of St. Mary Overey, in 1264. The obverse of the seal exhibits the Virgin Mary sitting on a throne, crowned, as Eegina Coeli, with the infant Jesus on her left knee ; and on each side of her a medallion, with a head : legend — " Sbfgt'H. lEcdesie Sbancte JWart'e lie Jifleu'tona." Eeverse — St. Augustine mitred, standing under a pointed arch, having his right hand raised, as in the act of benediction, and SEALS OP HEBTON PRIORY. holding in his left a pastoral staff: legend— " JWunUt Hucema, nos, ^upstine, guf.ema." In the exergue — " Augustine pater, quos instruis in Meritona, His Christi mater tutrix est atque Patrona." The estates belonging to this foundation were very numerous, and at the time of its surrender the gross annual revenue amounted to £1,039 5s. 3d., from which £81 5s. 9|d. being deducted for reserved rents, salaries, &c, a net income remained of £957 19s. 5|d. Among the possessions of the priory were the advowsons of many churches in different counties. VOL. III. B B 1 8.6 HISTORY OF SURREY. After the resumption of the estates by Queen Elizabeth, that sovereign, in 1587, granted the buildings and site of the priory, with its appurtenances, including lands in Merton, Mordon, Mitcham, Streatham, and Long Ditton, to Gregory Lovell, Esq., Cofferer of the Eoyal Household, on a lease for twenty-one years, afterwards renewed for a similar term, at an annual rent of £26 13s. 4d. In 1600 these premises were, by letters- patent of the Queen, granted to Nicholas Zouch and Thos. Ware, as trustees for Charles Howard, Earl of Nottingham, K.G., High Admiral of England, to be held by knight's service, as the fortieth part of a fee, at the same yearly rent as above : this quit-rent was after wards settled on Henrietta Maria, queen of Charles I., as part of her dower. In 1604 the Earl of Nottingham sold his interest in this estate to John Spilman, Esq., and in the course of that century the property was conveyed to the several families of Wilson, Gripe, Pepys, &c, until William Hubbald, of Stoke near Guildford, Paymaster and Accountant of the Navy Office, became owner in 1701. He died in 1709, and under an Act of Parliament obtained in 1711, authorising the sale of his estates to satisfy his debts to the Crown, the site and appurtenances of the priory were sold to Sir William Phippard, Knt., member for the borough of Poole, Dorset, during several Parliaments in the reigns of William III. and Queen Anne. After his death in 1723 the property became much divided among his children and representatives, and has since passed through many hands. The immediate site of the priory is now held by Messrs Littler, who carry on the business of silk and woollen printing within its precincts. During the civil wars this priory appears to have been used as a garrison, for the Derby House Committee, in 1648, were ordered by Parliament "to make Farnham Castle indefensible, and to secure Merton Abbey, and other places of strength in the same county." In 1680 Merton Abbey was advertised to be let, and described as containing several large rooms and a very fine chapel : the latter is said by Vertue, the engraver, who visited this place about 1730, to have resembled the Saxon buildings. The priory was situated on the banks of the river Wandle, and occupied about 60 acres of ground : the flint walls surrounding the premises are all that now remain. In the last century, in 1724 and 1752, two calico-printing works were established within the walls, the chapel being used as a print-room ; and at the north-east corner a copper-mill was erected. These works, when Lysons wrote, about 1790, employed " a thousand persons," but a great change has since taken place, and the silk-printing has superseded the calico business. Eectory and Advowson. — This benefice, a rectory in the deanery of Ewell, was appropriated to Merton Priory in the reign of Henry I. In the Valor of Pope Nicholas (1291) it is rated at 10 marks per annum. Edward VI., in 1552-3, in consideration of MERTON. 187 the sum of £359, granted the rectory to Thos. Lock, and Mary his wife, and then: heirs ; and it was afterwards the property of different families, until, in 1762, Sir Thomas Chitty, Knt., and Alderman of London, devised it by will to his daughter Eleanor, wife of George Bond, Esq., and their issue. In his will this estate is described as consisting of " a royalty, the church tithes, the mansion called Merton place, and two large farms named Merton Holts and West Barnes." During its subordination to the priory the services of this church were performed by a temporary curate appointed by the prior, but since the dissolution a perpetual curate, appointed by the impropriator, has officiated. Most of the land is tithe free, haAing belonged to the priory. The living is now a vicarage in the diocese of Eochester. The Eegisters, commenced in 1559, are imperfect. Incumbents of Merton in and since 1799 : — 1. — Chas. Frederick Bond, M.A. 2. — Thomas Zancaster. Instituted in 1814. 3. — Essex Henry Bond, B.A. Instituted in 1827. 4. — William Edelman, M.A. Instituted in 1848. 5. — John Frederick Fixsen, M.A. Instituted in 1863. 6. — John Caillard Erck, M.A. Instituted in 1869. The church, a long and narrow structure dedicated to St. Mary, formerly consisted of nave and chancel, a north entrance porch, and a small spire issuing from the roof at the west end. In 1866 the fabric was restored and reseated, and aisles, organ chamber, and vestry were added. The walls are chiefly of flint, and may possibly be those of the church noticed in the Doomsday Book : the doorway is surmounted by a Norman arch with zigzag mouldings. Several of the windows are filled with stained glass. Among the sepulchral memorials are those of Gregory Lovell, Esq., Cofferer of the Household to Queen Elizabeth, who died in 1597 ; William Baynes, gent., of London, Land Surveyor ofthe Customs in three reigns, ob. 17P7; Henry Meriton, Esq., Gentleman of the Privy Chamber to George II., ob. 1757 ; Sir Thomas Eobinson, Knt. and Bart., F.E.S., of Eokeby, co. York, ob. 1777; Eear- Admiral Isaac Smith, of Merton Abbey, ob. 1831, and others of his family, erected in 1842 by their affectionate relative, Mrs. Elizabeth Cook, widow of the celebrated circumnavigator, under whom he served in early life. In the churchyard is the tomb of Mr. William Eutlish, a native of Merton, embroiderer to Charles II., who died in 1687. He bequeathed several tenements in this parish, lands, &c, of the then value of £400, for apprenticing the children, whether male or female, of poor parishioners. An addition of 4^ acres of land was awarded to the b B 2 ,88 HISTORY OF SURREY. trustees on the enclosure of Merton Common in 1816, and at the present time the annual income is £187 3s. lOd. The premium given with each apprentice is from £10 to £15 and £20, the times of meeting for the purpose being on every Whit-Tuesday. National Schools.— Mr. Eichard Thornton, of Cannon Hill, having bequeathed £10,000 to provide parochial schools, the new building Avas opened in 1871. It contains accommodation for 100 boys, 100 girls, and 100 infants, and houses for the teachers are attached. The educational provision since required by law was thus conferred on the parish by an act of individual munificence. The management is, by the scheme of the Charity Commissioners, vested in the vicar and churchwardens ex officio (being the trustees under the testator's will), conjointly with five other local trustees. The schools are under Government regulation and inspection, and receive a reduced Government grant: Avith this assistance and that of the children's pence the endowment nearly suffices for their support. Merton Place, or Grove. — For a short time Merton became the residence of the ever- to-be-remembered Lord Nelson, in compliance with whose wishes a small estate here was purchased by Lady Hamilton in 1801, about which period he had contemplated a final retirement from command. In a letter from Sheerness, dated in August, he says, "I hope my dear Emma will find a house suited for my comfort ; " and in another letter, written shortly afterwards, he entreats her to " work hard " and get for him both house and furniture.* Nelson lived here from October, 1801, until May, 1803, when he quitted it to resume his command in the Mediterranean, prior to which he devised his "capital messuage at Merton," with "its gardens, pleasure grounds, shrubbery, canal, mote," &c, to the extent of 70 acres, in the several parishes of Merton, Wimbledon, and Mitcham, to Lady Hamilton, then a widow (Sir William, Hamilton having died in 1803), her heirs and assigns. After the glorious battle of Trafalgar, in which Lord Nelson fell, Lady Hamilton continued to reside here with Nelson's daughter Horatia until about 1808, after which she was compelled by her necessities to dispose of this estate. Since that time the house has been pulled down, and many small buildings have been raised upon its site, and upon the adjacent grounds. MORTLAKE. On the north this parish is bounded by the river Thames, by Putney and Barnes on the east, by Eichmond and Kingston on the south, and by Kew on the west. The soil in * Vide " Letters of Lord Nelson to Lady HamUton," vol. i. pp. 51 and 54. Nelson last quitted Merton on the 13th of September, 1805. MORTLAKE. 189 general consists of sand and gravel, with deep clay in the meadows bordering on the river.* Before the Conquest this manor belonged to the see of Canterbury, but after that event it was, with other estates, unjustly appropriated by Odo, Bishop of Baieux. When Lanfranc, however, was appointed Archbishop, he asserted Iris right to the property in question before an assembly of nobles and prelates held in 1071 on Pinenden Heath, in Kent, and the cause being decided in his favour, Odo was compelled to make restitution. In the Doomsday Book this manor is thus described among the lands of the Archbishop of Canterbury : — " The Archbishop holds in demesne Mortlage. In the time of King Edward it was assessed at 80 hides. The Canons of St. Paul's hold 8 of these hides, j1 which were included in that assessment ; and they are now rated together at 25 hides. The arable land consists of 35 carucates. Five carucates are in demesne; and there are eighty villains, and fourteen bordars, with 28 carucates. There is a church; and sixteen bond men ; and two mills worth 100s. ; and 20 acres of meadow. The wood yields fifty-five swine for pannage. — There are [belonging to this manor] in London seventeen houses, paying 52d. ; in Southwark, four houses, paying 27d. ; and from the vill of Putelei, 20s. toll ; and one fishery not rated : this fishery Earl Harold held in Mortlage, in the time of King Edward, and Stigand the Archbishop held it a long while in the reign of William ; yet they say that Harold erected it by force in the land of Chingestune and that of the Canons of St. Paul's. The whole manor, in the time of King Edward, was valued at £32, afterwards at £10, and now at £38." It is evident from the survey that the ancient manor of Mortlake was of great extent, and, in fact, it not only comprised the present parish, but likewise those of Wimbledon Putney, and Barnes. At a long subsequent period it was included in the manor of Wimbledon, at which place the original church was situated ; but the principal mansion, or manor-house, was at Mortlake. This became the occasional residence of the Arch bishops of Canterbury, and many of their public acts are dated from here.J Archbishop * Aubrey says that the sand taken from the bed of the Thames at this place makes an exceUent cement with a smaU proportion of hme, and that it is found " experimentally to bind stronger than any other." — Surrey, vol. i. p. 91. t These 8 hides formed the manor of Barnes. X The festival of Whitsuntide was celebrated at Mortlake, in 1099, by Archbishop Anselm, and here also he held -an ordination in the reign of Henry I. Archbishop Corboyle was confined to his house at Mortlake by sickness in 1136. It was here that the death of Archbishop Peckham took place in 1292, and that of Walter Reynolds in 1327. Simon Mepham, Metropolitan in the early part of the reign of Edward III., having incurred the displeasure of the Pope, was excommunicated by him, and, retiring to Mortlake manor-house, passed many days in solitude. Nicholas Bubbewith, Keeper of the Privy Seal and Lord Treasurer under Henry IV., was consecrated Bishop of London in 1406, in the manorial chapel, by Archbishop Arundel, assisted by the Bishops of Winchester and Worcester. Archbishop Warham was probably the last prelate who resided at Mortlake, as his immediate successor, Cranmer, alienated the manor to the King. I9o HISTORY OF SURREY. Cranmer conveyed it, with the Wimbledon manor, &c, to Henry VIII. in exchange for other lands.* In Queen Elizabeth's reign this estate was held by Sir Thomas Cecil, who sold it to Eobert Walter, Esq., by whom, in 1594, it was conveyed to Elizabeth, widow of Hugh Stukeley, Esq. Her son, Sir Thomas Stukeley, Knt., of March, Somerset, transferred the estate to William Penn in 1607. Manning says that it appears by deeds that Mortlake House was standing in 1663, but is supposed to have been taken down not long after 1700.f This parish is now in the archdeaconry of Southwark and diocese of Eochester ; and the living is a vicarage, in the gift of the Dean and Chapter of Worcester. Down till the recent (1876) transfer of the parish from the diocese of London to that of Eochester, the living was only a perpetual curacy, subordinate to Wimbledon, the latter being the mother church, though Mortlake was the primary seat of the manor. In the King's books Mortlake is returned as " not in charge." Formerly it was a " peculiar " of the Archbishop of Can terbury ; but under an order of Council made in 1845, and ratifying certain proceedings of the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, the parishes of Mortlake and Wimbledon, St. Mary's Newington, Barnes and Putney, all peculiars of the same prelate, were added to the see of London from and after January 1st, 1846.$ The Eegisters commence in 1599. Among the entries of burials are those of Margaret Bourne, widow, April 21, 1637, "thought to be aboA'e one hundred years old;" and William Bakerage, "aged 103, October 20, 1741." § Perpetual Curates of Mortlake in and since 1800 : — 1. — Septimus Collinson, D.D. Licensed in 1799. 2. — Edward Owen, B.A. Licensed in 1813. 3. — Edward James, M.A. Licensed in 1820. * It is probable that the King occasionally dwelt here, as in 1543 he caused the church to be rebuilt on the spot which it now occupies, the original site being adjacent to the manor-house. Leland, speaking of Mortlake House in his " Cygnea Cantio," says — " Dehinc et mortuus est lacus, superba VUlai effigies, domusque nota." In the commentary on this passage it is called " Villa eximie splendida."— (Itinerary, vol. ix.) The words mortuus lacus, the dead lake, refer to a presumed etymology of the name of Mortlake. Stow, under the date 1240, records that " Manie strange and great fishes came ashore, whereof eleven were Sea buls [seals ?], and one of large bignesse passed up the river of Thamis, through the bridge of London vnhurt, til he came as far as the King's house [possibly the Archbishop's house, then in the King's possession], at Mortlake, where hee was killed." — Chronicle, p. 280. t " Surrey," vol. hi. p. 306. X Vide Second General Report from the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, ordered to be printed 15th June, 1847. § In the parish accounts is mentioned the putting up a penance seat in 1638. In 1646 was paid " for Blotting out the Cherubims in the Church, 2s. 6d.," and for "a frame, and a whip that hangs in the church for drunkards, Is." In 1662 £Z 7s. was paid for erecting and painting a ducking-stool for scolds. MORTLAKE. 191 4. — Edivard Aislabic Ommanney, M.A. Licensed in 1832. 5. — Fred. John Haivkes Reeves, M.A. Licensed in 1841. 6. — Henry Hutchinson Swinny, M.A. Licensed in 1850. 7. — John T. Manley, M.A. Licensed in 1855. 8. — Zatvrence John Harrison, M.A. Instituted in 1863. 9. — Albert Shadwell Shutte, M.A. Instituted in 1865. The church was first erected on its present site after the exchange between Arch bishop Cranmer and Henry VIII., and from the inscription over the window above the doorway in the tower, Utbat 3ft, f% 8. 1543, it is supposed to have been built by that sovereign. The tower consists of four stories : the three lowermost are of flint and stone in chequer-work, strengthened by buttresses at the angles ; the upper story is of brick with stone dressings, and crowned by a modern lantern cupola and vane. Within the octangular turret on the north side is a spiral staircase leading to the belfry and roof, in which are eight musical bells. The body of the church is of brick, and extremely plain : it has been rebuilt and much enlarged at different periods. The ceiling, which is flat, is divided into ornamental panels, and supported by Tuscan columns. At the east end is a Corinthian screen of oak, the central part forming a pointed arch, under which is a painting of the Entombment of Christ by Vandergutch, who resided at Mortlake, and by whom it was presented in 1794. The font, octagonal and of stone, was probably given by Archbishop Bouchier, temp. Henry VL, as it includes his arms, viz. a cross engr. between four Avater bougets, and the arms of the see of Canterbury, &c, among its facial sculptures. On the north side is a spacious vestry, and against the walls are several sepulchral tablets, including a memorial for Sir Philip Francis, K.G.C.B., to whom the "Letters of Junius " have been attributed. He died in 1818, and was buried in this church. The memory of Henry Addington, Viscount Sidmouth, Speaker of the House of Commons from 1789 until 1801, and subsequently President of the Council, Lord Privy Seal, and Secretary of State for the Home Department, is recorded on a handsome sarco phagus of white marble on the north side of the communion-table.* He was the eldest son of Dr. Addington, physician to George III., with whom he became so great a favourite as to acquire the appellation of the King's Friend. He was born in 1757, and dying at the White Lodge, Eichmond Park, in 1844, was interred in Mortlake Churchyard, where a low-ridged tomb, surrounded by iron railings, has been raised over his burial vault. Another elegant monument (beneath the former), representing a dying female * The inscription states that "his body was deposited in a vault beneath the church," but this is erroneous. loz HISTORY OF SURREY. on a couch, with other small attendant figures in high relief, and of white marble, com memorates the virtues and decease of Ursula Mary, Viscountess Sidmouth, daughter and coheiress of Leonard Hammond, Esq., of Cheam, who died in 1811. On the east wall, southward, is affixed an elaborate monument of different marbles for the Honourable Francis Coventry, a son of Thomas, Lord Coventry, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal in the reign of Charles I. At the sides are full-sized statues of a male and female, supporting a heavy pediment and funeral urn. The inscription, partly in Latin, states that he was born at Crom.be, Worcester, in 1613, and died at Mortlake in 1699. Eobert Devenish, Esq., Norroy King-at-Arms, who died in 1704, is com memorated, with others of his family, by an oval tablet at the north side of the organ gallery. Sir John Barnard, Knt., Alderman, and representative of London in six successive Parliaments, was buried in the chancel in 1764. He was a philanthropist and true patriot ; and he is noticed in connection with the " Man of Eoss " by Pope in the Epilogue to his " Satires." He was Lord Mayor in 1737, and his conduct in the civic chair excited great admiration.4' Another distinguished patriot and alderman of London, namely, Mr. John Barber, lies buried in the churchyard, towards the enlargement of which, in 1723, he had given a piece of ground. He was born within the City in 1675, and though of humble birth, and bred a printer, he obtained such influence by his good conduct and assiduity as to be chosen its chief magistrate in 1733. His gains from trade were considerable, as he was warmly patronised by the Tories of his day ; but much of his opulence was derived from realised speculations in South Sea stock. With a portion of his wealth he bought an estate at East Sheen, which long afterwards became the seat of Sir Philip Francis. He was a Jacobite, and a zealous Tory, in consequence of which he became intimate with Lord Bolingbroke, Dean Swift, and Pope, to each of whom he bequeathed a legacy. He died in 1740-41. In the inscription on his tomb he is characterized as a " constant bene factor to the poor, true to bis principles in Church and State, an upright magistrate in the most corrupt times, and greatly instrumental in defeating a scheme of a general excise " in the year of his mayoralty. * This eminent man, born at Reading in 1685, was originally one of the Society of Friends ; but becoming a member of the Estabhshed Church from conviction, he was baptized by Bishop Compton. He distinguished himself by his continued exertions to promote the happiness of his fellow-citizens and the prosperity of his country, particularly in his successful opposition to the Excise Scheme of Sir Robert Walpole, and by his standing forward at the head of the merchants for the support of pubhc credit during the Scotch rebelhon in 1745. As a tribute to his virtues his statue was erected in the Royal Exchange, and it is recorded as an instance of his modesty that he could never afterwards be prevailed on to enter that edifice. MORTLAKE. 193 Christ Church was built at East Sheen, in the south-west part of the parish, in 1864, as a chapel-of-ease to the parish church. Large new National Schools were built in 1869, and a Board School has recently been opened in the Lower Eichmond Eoad. A vicarage was also erected in 1866. Among the several charities of this parish may be noticed the foundation of a charity school about 1670, towards supporting which the munificent Edward Colston, a Bristol merchant, who in his lifetime expended more than £70,000 in charitable gifts and institutions, bequeathed in 1720 the annual sum of £45 for twelve years. He resided for some time in an ancient house at Mortlake, said to have been once the abode of Oliver Cromwell, and thence called Cromwell House.* A red-brick mansion, of Tudor architecture, now occupies the site of Cromwell House, which was pulled down about 1860. This building is the residence of James Wigan, Esq. In Sheen Lane is an Independent meeting-house, erected in 1716, and since enlarged. Numerous legacies and donations, producing a considerable yearly income, have been made for the poor of Mortlake. The manor of East Sheen and West Hall, anciently included in that of Mortlake and Wimbledon, was enfranchised in the reign of Henry VII., when in the possession of the Welbecks. It afterwards passed by sale and otherwise to the families of Brace- bridge, Whitfield, Juxon, Kay, and Taylor. Edward Taylor, Esq., who died in 1786, bequeathed part of this estate to his widow, with remainder to his son, and the other parts to his three daughters. In 1808 a court was held in the names of Mrs. Taylor and her daughters, but the manorial property has been since divided. East Sheen is a pleasant hamlet, situated on elevated ground away from the Thames, and bordering on Eichmond Park. The memorable law proceedings to determine the right of a public way through Eichmond Park, of which some account has been already given, f were commenced from the proceeds of a subscription originating about 1753 among the inhabitants of East Sheen, who had been debarred from that privilege, first by Sir Eobert Walpole, Avhen Eanger of the park, and afterwards by the Princess Amelia, daughter of George II. The successful result was chiefly owing to the energy and perseverance of Mr. John Lewis, a brewer, of Eichmond. He died in 1792 ; but his memory is and will ever be held in * Mr. Colston died in 1721, but his remains were removed to Bristol, his native city (where he had founded an extensive school), and interred in AU Saints' Church, in which is a monumental inscription recording his numerous bene factions. The boys educated in the Bristol School wear a brass dolphin on their breasts, in commemoration, as it is reported, of his preservation from being drowned at sea by a dolphin stopping a hole in the ship on his homeward voyage from the Indies. t See under Kingston Hundred, vol. ii. pp. 246-7. VOL. III. C C 1 94 HISTORY OF SURREY. respect in the neighbourhood. Nearly 640 acres of Eichmond Park are in the parish of Mortlake. They include the house and grounds called the White Lodge, belonging to the Crown, and now the residence of H.S.H. the Prince of Teck. About 1619 a manufactory of fine tapestry was set up at Mortlake by Sir Francis Crane, Knt., under the patronage of King James, who, according to Fuller, " gave him £2,000 to build therewith a house for that purpose." * Charles I. was equally favourable to the art, and in 1625, within two months after his accession, he granted an annual pension of £2,000 to Sir Francis Crane for ten years ; one moiety in satisfaction of a debt of £6,000 for three suits of gold tapestry, delivered for his use {pour trois assortmens de Tapisseries oVor qu'il a livrees pour notre usage), and the other a gift for the advancement and maintenance of " the work of tapestries, which the said Sir Francis lately brought into this kingdom." The work first produced had been an imitation of old patterns; but in 1623 the celebrated Francis Cleyne, a native of Bostock, in Lower Saxony, was engaged as limner, and he " gave designs, both in history and grotesque, which carried those works to singular perfection." f His merit was duly appreciated by the King, who first made him a free denizen, and soon after gave him a pension of £100 per annum for life.J Five of Eaffaelle's cartoons were sent to Mortlake by Charles I. to be copied in tapestry by Crane. After the decapitation of the King, the " Tapestry House," formerly surrendered to him by Sir Eichard Crane, brother of Sir Francis, then deceased, was seized as the property of the Crown, and retained during the Protectorate. After the Eestoration, as we are informed by Walpole, Charles II., having a design to revive the manufacture at Mort lake, sent for Verrio to England; but changing his mind, he consigned Windsor to the pencil of that artist ; and the tapestry works, thus deprived of royal patronage, fell into complete desuetude. § Dr. John Dee, one of the most celebrated cultivators of natural philosophy in the * Fuller, "Worthies," vol. ii. p. 353, Nichols's edit. t Rynier, " Fcedera," vol. viii. p. 43, 3rd edit. This must allude to the superior kind of tapestry manufactured by Crane, for the art itseh of tapestry-weaving was brought into England by Wm. Sheldon, Esq., about the end of the reign of Henry VIII. (Vide Dugdale's " Warwickshire," in stemmate Sheldon, and Gough's " British Topograph}'," vol. ii. pp. 309—311.) X Rymer, " Fcedera," vol. viii. pp. 69 and 82. In 1625 the King granted to the Lady Frances, Duchess-Dowager of Richmond and Lennox, and Sir Francis Crane, and their executors, the exclusive privUege for seventeen years of making copper farthings for general circulation, at the yearly rent of 100 marks, payable into the Exchequer ! (Id. pp. 104—106.) § In the survey made in 1651 by the Parliamentary Commissioners, the extent of the premises at Mortlake is stated to be 115£ feet in length and 84 feet in breadth, and their value per annum J50, independently of the limner's tenement standing opposite, which is valued at £9 per annum. The Tapestry House, stated by Lysons to " have occupied the site of Queen's Head Court," consisted of three stories, the lowermost being in the occupation of different workmen : on the second story " one great working-room, 82 feet in length, and 20 in breadth, wherein are twelve looms for making tapestry work of all sorts," and one other room, about half as long, with six looms, and another great room called the Limner's Room : in the third story a long gallery divided into three rooms. Ashmole, in a manuscript preserved at PUTNEY. 1 95 sixteenth century, was long a resident at Mortlake, which was also the place of his death and interment. He was devoted to the study of the occult sciences, astrology, alchemy, and cabalistic philosophy. But it is evident from his works, still extant both in print and manuscript, that his attention was by no means confined to such visionary pursuits. He was the son of Eowland Dee, Gentleman Sewer to Henry VIII., and was born in London in 1527. During his residence at Mortlake, where he was regarded by the common people as a sorcerer, and by the higher classes of society as a learned philosopher, the Queen occasionally visited him, and she bestowed on him various donations ; but he lived extravagantly, and was often involved in difficulties. He died in 1608. John Bartridge, a native of East Sheen, another astrologer, who died here in 1715, is commemorated by a brief Latin inscription on a flat stone. PUTNEY. This is an extensive parish on the southern bank of the Thames, which divides it from Fulham, in Middlesex, on the north. On the east it is bounded by Wimbledon and Wandsworth, on the south by Kingston, and on the west by Mortlake and Barnes. In the Doomsday Book the vill, or village, is mentioned under the name Putelei, probably by mis take of the Norman scribe ; in subsequent records, down to the sixteenth century, it is styled Puttenheth, or Pottenheth ; and since that period it has been known by its present appellation. Though this is a distinct parish, the church was originally only a chapel to Wimbledon, and the whole of Putney lies within that manor. The soil is principally sand and gravel. In the account of Mortlage (Mortlake) in the Doomsday Book reference is made to a ferry at Putelei, which yielded 20s. a year. Here, also, in the time of Earl Harold, was a valuable fishery, the ownership of which has descended with the manor. In 1663 it was let for an annual rent of three best salmon which should be caught in March, April, and May ; but this rent was subsequently commuted for money.* Anciently this place was a considerable thoroughfare, it being usual for persons, on their way from London to the west of England, to go as far as Putney by water. In the Wardrobe Accounts of 28 Edward I., Oxford, says that Dr. Dee dwelt in a house near the waterside, a httle westward from the church, and that Sir Francis Crane erected his buildings for working of tapestry (still in use in 1673) upon the ground whereon Dr. Dee's laboratory and other rooms for that use stood. (MS. Ashm. Museum, No. 1788, fol. 149.) In a survey of Mortlake taken in 1617 Dr. Dee's then late residence is called an " ancient house." * In 1717, when the estates of Sir Theodore Janssen, lord of Wimbledon (formerly one of the directors of the South Sea Company), were sold, the fishery was let for £6 yearly, which rent was afterwards increased to ,£8, on a lease that expired in 1800. Sturgeons are occasionally taken in tins part of the Thames,- and sometimes, though rarely, a porpoise. These are regarded as royal fishes, and being claimed by the Lord Mayor under a grant from the Crown, the fishermen are obliged to deliver them, as soon as taken, to the water-bailiff. (See Lysons, " Surrey," vol. i. p. 426, and Blount's " Law Dictionary," 1670, fol. art. Royal Fishes.) c c 2 196 HISTORY OF SURREY. published by the Society of Antiquaries, are entries of payments to the ferryman of Putney for conveying the King and royal family to Fulham and to Westminster.* In 12 George I. an Act of Parliament was obtained for the building of a bridge of wood across the Thames from Putney to Fulham ; and in 1 George II. an amended Act was passed, by which the trustees were empowered to grant the shares in this undertaking in fee ; thus the subscribers were constituted freeholders of Surrey and Middlesex. Thirty persons advanced the sum of £740 each on those terms, and purchased for £8,000 the ferries, which had yielded to the proprietors £400 a year. The Duchess of Marlborough, who then held the manor of Wimbledon, received £364 10s. for her interest in the ferry; and the Bishop of London £23 for his interest on the Middlesex side, as lord of the manor of Fulham, in addition to which he reserved for himself and his household, and his and their successors, the privilege of passing the bridge toll free.-j- Some attempts to increase the space between the piles and give height to this ugly structure were made in consequence of the steamboats conveying passengers from London to Putney and Kew. In 1870 two of the spans or openings were thrown into one, and since then three have been converted into one, so that there are now but twenty-three openings instead of twenty-six as originally. The length of the bridge is about 800 feet. Since the Eeform Act of 1832 the original shares have been subdivided to a great extent, as one-tAventieth part of one of these shares, producing above £4 yearly, gives a vote both for Surrey and Middlesex. In 1776 a house was erected on Putney Heath by David Hartley, Esq. (son of Dr. Hartley, the celebrated metaphysician), for the purpose of proving the efficacy of a method which he had invented for securing buildings from destruction by fire. His plan consisted in laying thin sheets of iron and copper between double floors, and thus, by pre venting the ascent of the heated air from the lower to the upper rooms, effectually checking the process of combustion. The house thus constructed was the scene of repeated experi ments, which were witnessed by the King and Queen, several members of Parliament, the Lord Mayor, and some of the Aldermen of London. Many persons on those occasions remained in perfect security in a room over that in which a fire was burning with great violence. By the side of the turnpike road, near the house, an obelisk, with inscriptions, * In 42 Elizabeth, at a court held for the manor of AVimbledon, it was ordered that if any waterman should neglect to pay a halfpenny for every stranger, and a farthing for every inhabitant of Putney, crossing the river, to the proprietor of the ferry, he should forfeit to the lord 2s. 6d. In 1629 the lord of the manor received 15s. a year for the ferry. In 1656 General Lambert, who then held the manor, gave to the Company of Free Watermen of Putney a small plot of ground near the water, for the purpose of erecting a shed for their boats. t The sum of ,£62 was chrected to be annually divided among the widows and chUdren of the poor watermen of Putney and Fulham, as a compensation to those men for being restricted from plying for fares on Sundays ; and on this account an additional toll of one halfpenny is paid by foot-passengers on Sundays. The mere expense of erecting the bridge was about £16,000. PUTNEY. 197 was erected at the expense of the Corporation of London, on which is recorded a public grant of £2,500 to Mr. Hartley, towards defraying the charge of his experiments. Both the house and obelisk are still standing, but Mr. Hartley's invention has never been utilised. Putney Heath, like Wimbledon Common, which it adjoins, has been the scene of many duels. Here, in 1652, a fatal combat took place between George, sixth Lord Chandos, and Col. Henry Compton, in which the latter was killed. After a long imprisonment, both Lord Chandos and his second, Lord Arundel, were brought to trial in 1654, and found guilty of manslaughter. In 1798 the Prime Minister, William Pitt, and George Tierney, M.P. for Southwark, fought here on a Sunday afternoon, but the issue was without blood shed. In 1809 a duel took place on the heath between Lord Castlereagh and George Canning, both Secretaries of State, in which the latter was wounded in the thigh.* During the war between Charles I. and the Parliament some transactions requiring notice took place at Putney. When the Eoyalists marched to Kingston after the skirmish with the Parliamentary forces at Brentford in 1642, the Earl of Essex, who commanded the latter, having resolved to pursue the retreating army, a bridge of boats was constructed between Fulham and Putney to facilitate the passage of his troops, and forts were ordered to be constructed on either side of the river, f In 1647, after the surrender of the King had occasioned a suspension rather than a termination of the civil war, the anti-Eoyalists became divided among themselves, the Parliament, or Presbyterian party, being opposed to the army and to the Independents. The partisans of the King endeavoured to take advantage of this state of affairs ; and Fairfax and Cromwell having drawn together their forces to overawe the metropohs, Putney was fixed on for their head-quarters, as being a situation from which they could both watch the measures of their Parliamentary opponents and observe the proceedings of the King, then a captive at Hampton Court. The army removed from Kingston to Putney on the 27th of August in the above year : during its continuance here the chief officers held their councils in the parish church, sitting round the communion-table, and had their lodgings at the houses of the principal inhabitants.^ * Many duels have also been fought in Battersea Fields ; and there, in March, 1829, his Grace the Duke of Welhngton and the Earl of AVinchelsea had a meeting. The Earl, who had made a gross charge against the Duke of an insidious design to " introduce Popery into every department of the State," received his adversary's fire, and then, after discharging his pistol in the air, tended a written apology to his Grace in the terms which the latter had originally proposed. t Faulkner, in his " History of Fulham," says that the tite du pont, on the Putney side, was stUl visible in 1812. X Vide " Perfect Occurrences," Oct. 8, 1647. Before they proceeded to debate they usuaUy heard a sermon from Hugh Peters, or some other favourite preacher. Several of their deliberations related to the payment of arrears to the army, and threatening declarations were repeatedly addressed to the Parhament from hence on that subject. On the 8th of October they gave audience in the church to one Gifthiel, a High German prophet. After various debates, on the 1st i98 HISTORY OF SURREY. Putney Park, styled Mortlake Park in some old records, and extending into both parishes, was reserved to the Crown by Henry VIII. Queen Mary appointed Sir Eobert Tyrwhit Keeper of Putney Park and Master of the Game. Sir Charles Howard, who held that office under James I., had an allowance of £15 a year to buy hay for the deer. In 1627 Charles I. granted the park, in fee-simple, to Sir Eichard Weston, and in the following year appointed him to the office of Lord Treasurer, Avhich he held until his decease in 1635, when, by the King's command (as appears by the " Stafford Letters "), the whole court wore mourning for him " during one day." From the time of obtaining his grant of the park Sir Eichard made the adjoining hamlet a summer residence, and the house at Eoehampton Grove occupies the site of his mansion.* In 1633 he was created Earl of Portland, and his son Jerome, who succeeded him, sold the house and park for £11,300 to Sir Thomas Dawes, by whom they were first let and subsequently sold to Christiana, Countess of Devonshire, a woman of much talent and historic celebrity.-)" Her son William, third Earl of Devonshire, and father of the first duke, held this property until his decease in 1684; but after the death of the Countess in 1689 it was sold to Sir Jeffery Jefferys, an alderman of London, who died at this place in 1707. It had afterwards different proprietors, until it was purchased by the of November they completed their propositions for the future government of the kingdom, which were sent to the King at Hampton Court. On the 13th of November, two days after the King had escaped to the Isle of AVight, the army removed from Putney. (Lysons, " Environs," vol. i. p. 408.) * In 1632 a chapel was consecrated in the mansion of Lord Weston (as he was then styled) by Wilham Laud, Bishop of London, with the consent of Lord Wimbledon, impropriator of the great tithes, and the curates of Wimbledon and Putney, who were all present on the occasion. It was dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and assigned to be a chapel for ever for the inhabitants present and future of that house. This chapel was ornamented with a painting representing the Last Supper, supposed to be the work of Frederic Zucchero. The building was pulled down in 1777 by Thomas Parker, Esq., and a new chapel erected about 100 yards from the house, and the picture just mentioned was placed in it as an altar- piece. In the old chapel Jerome Weston, the son of the Lord Treasurer, was married in 1632 to the Lady Frances Stuart, daughter of the Duke of Lennox, the ceremony being performed by Bishop Laud. Several of their chUdren were baptized in the same chapel. t This lady, daughter of Edward, Lord Bruce, of Kinloss, was related to James I., who gave her in marriage to the Earl of Devonshire, with a fortune of £10,000, himself being present at the ceremony. After the death of her husband in 1628, she obtained the wardship of her son, and during his minority acted with so much skUl and prudence as to extricate the family estates from " a vast debt and thirty law-suits, having ingratiated herself so far with the sages of the law that King Charles jestingly said to her, ' Madam, you have all my judges at your disposal.' " She was also distinguished as the patroness of men of wit and learning, who frequently assembled at her house at Roehampton. The celebrated philosopher Hobbes was her son's tutor, and lived much in her family ; AValler and other poets celebrated her praises ; and William Herbert, Earl of Pembroke, addressed to her a volume of poems, afterwards pubhshed and dedicated to her by Dr. Donne. Her second son, Col. Charles Cavendish, fell in the service of Charles I., and the Countess herself acted with so much zeal in behalf of the Royahsts as to incur the danger of being sent to the Tower. It is asserted in " Collins's Peerage " that she was instrumental in urging the Earl of Holland to that rash enterprise, in 1648, which terminated so disastrously for himself and others. She became, however, eminently useful to the Royalists when concerting measures for the Restoration, and entered into a secret correspondence with General Monk and other friends of the Crown to expedite that event. Charles II. showed a grateful sense of her services by frequently visiting her at Roehampton, in company with the Queen-Dowager and the royal family, with whom she enjoyed much intimacy until her decease in 1675. PUTNEY. 199 late Sir Joshua Vanneck, Bart., afterwards Lord Huntingfield, an eminent merchant of London, who in 1777 married Maria, second daughter of Andrew Thompson, Esq., of Eoehampton. He pulled down the old mansion, and erected an elegant villa from designs by Wyatt ; he also formed at the termination of the lawn a fine sheet of water, supplied by pipes from a conduit on Putney Heath. Advowson, &c. — The benefice of Putney is a perpetual curacy, with a reserved stipend of £40 per annum, payable out of the great tithes by the lessee of the rectory. This, formerly a peculiar of the Archbishop of Canterbury, was annexed by order of Council to the see of London on January 1st, 1846.* In 1876 it was transferred to the diocese of Eochester. The following instances of longevity occur in the Parish Eegister, which commences in 1622 : — Ehzabeth Fisher, buried June 16, 1662, "aged a hundredth years." John James Dartiquenave, buried September 25, 1709, " aged 99 years and upwards.'' Catherine Farmer, buried November 8, 1747, aged 101 years. Sarah AVatts, " from the workhouse, buried, said to be 104, Jan. 18, 1766." Ann AVilliams, " from the workhouse, aged 109, buried May 7, 1772." Mary Ceasley, aged 100, buried November 18, 1787. Eleanor Shadwick, aged 99, was buried January 2, 1808. Perpetual Curates of Putney in and since 1800 : — 1. — Thomas Hughes, M.A. Licensed in 1788. 2. — John Wingfield, D.D. Licensed in 1804. 3. — James Meakin, M.A. Licensed in 1805. 4. — John Francis Seymour Fleming St. John, M.A. Licensed in 1811. 5. — John Fleming St. John, B.A. Licensed in 1813. 6. — Henry St. Andrew St. John, M.A. Licensed in 1821. 7. — William Tomkyns Briggs, M.A. Licensed in 1833. 8. — Christopher Thomas Robinson, M.A. Licensed in 1835. 9. — The Hon. Robert Henley, M.A. Instituted in 1861. Putney Church, nearly adjoining the bridge, and dedicated to St. Mary, was built as a chapel-of-ease to Wimbledon some time prior to 1302, when an ordination was held in it by Archbishop Winchelsea. The body of the church was entirely rebuilt about 1836 from the designs of Mr. Edward Lapidge ; but the tower, a massive structure of stone, and embattled, was left standing, but properly repaired. This consists of four stories, and contains a clock and eight bells : in the second story, over the west entrance, is a handsome pointed-arched window of four principal lights, with tracery in the heading. The new * See Mortlake above, p. 190. zoo HISTORY OF SURREY. work is of yellow brick, with stone dressings : on each side, between buttresses, are five large Tudor-arched windows of three divisions each : the parapets are plain. The interior consists of nave, aisles, and chancel, the latter being terminated by a pointed-arched window of five lights, enriched with stained glass, with numerous divisions above in the perpendicular style.* The aisles are separated from the nave by light piers, with attached shafts, from which spring obtuse-pointed arches : the roof is of oak, the rafters being supported by brackets springing from corbels of angels bearing shields. On the south of the chancel is a small vestry, and on the north is the elegant little chapel erected in the Tudor style by Bishop West, which was removed from the east end of the south aisle into its present position during the rebuilding of the church. It has a groined roof, enriched with fanlike tracery, interspersed with the Bishop's arms, viz. Arg. a chev. sab. between three roses, gu. slipped vert, impaled with those of the see of Ely.f Its eastern window consists of three lights, embellished with scriptural subjects in finely executed stained glass, chiefly old, viz. St. Mary Magdalene anointing Christ, the Eaising of Lazarus from the Tomb, and the Good Samaritan. These enrichments were presented to the church in 1845 by Dr. Charles Thomas Longley, Bishop of Eipon, in commemoration of his deceased mother, Elizabeth Longley, who during many years resided in this parish. In 1877 the flooring of the chancel was relaid with encaustic tiles, and the body of the fabric reseated with open benches in place of the antiquated and unsightly pews. Other interior restorations have since been carried out from the designs of Mr. A. Blomfield. The north, south, and west galleries are spacious. A handsome pulpit of mahogany stands at the east end of the nave. The font is octagonal, and of freestone : in its basin are a small Gothic font and cover of biscuit, or artificial stone. Many persons of eminence lie interred in this church, and several of the old memorials deserve notice. Among these are the mural monuments, now in the lower part of the tower, of Lady Katharine Palmer and Eichard Lusher, Esq., of Putney. Both are of marble, and architecturally designed, the inscriptive tablets being arranged between small Corinthian columns supporting pediments surmounted by shields of arms, and otherwise decorated. Lady Palmer, wife of Sir Anthony Palmer, K.B., died in 1613, and was buried in the chancel, where this monument was originally affixed, ij: Mr. Lusher died in * The cost of rebuilding the church was defrayed by a rate on the parishioners, aided by voluntary subscriptions and a grant of ,£430 from the Incorporated Society, by which means the number of sittings declared free and unappro priated was increased to 400. t An " Account of Bishop West's Chapel," by J. G. Jackson and G. T. Andrews, was published in 1825 in 4to. X Lady Palmer was married, secondly, to Thomas Knyvett, Esq., a descendant from John Knyvett, Knt., Lord Chief Justice and Lord ChanceUor of England in the above reign. She died in 1623. In the Latin inscription to her memory, PUTNEY. 201 1615. His memorial, formerly in the south aisle, was erected by Mary, his widow, daughter of George Scott, Esq., a descendant of John Scott, Lord Chief Justice of England in the reign of Edward III. Against the south wall of the chancel is a sarcophagus tablet of white marble, sur mounted by a funeral urn and drapery neatly sculptured, in commemoration of Sir John Dick, Bart., who died at Mount Clare, Eoehampton, in 1804, and was buried at East Ham, Essex. Whilst English Consul at Leghorn during a period of twenty-two years he rendered some important services to the Eussian fleet, and was, in approbation of his conduct, created a Knight of the Order of St. Anne by the Empress Catherine II. Over the vestry door in the chancel is placed a portion of the old monument of Sir Thomas Dawes, of Putney Park, who died in 1655, and whose relict, Dame Judith Dawes, " slept here wth her Hvsband " in 1657. In the churchyard are many tombs in commemoration of former inhabitants of this parish. Another and more -extensive cemetery, which occupies about 4 acres on the upper road to Eichmond, was consecrated in 1763, the ground having been given by the Eev. Eoger Pettiward, D.D., whose family had an estate here. It contains many hand some monuments, that attracting most notice being a sarcophagus of white marble in memory of Eobert Wood, Esq., the Eastern traveller. St. John's Church, in St. John's Eoad, Putney Hill, is a large stone edifice of Gothic design, and was built in 1859. All Saints' Church, on Putney Lower Common, was built from the designs of Mr. G. E. Street, E.A., and consecrated in 1874. The Dissenters have many places of worship here. Among the several charities belonging to Putney is an almshouse in Wandsworth Lane, founded and endowed for twelve poor unmarried persons by Sir Abraham Dawes, Bart., and dedicated to the Holy Trinity, in the reign of Charles II. The income has been much increased by benefactions. It was intended for both sexes, but for many years only females have been admitted. These almshouses have been recently rebuilt. Here, also, is a school founded for the maintenance and education of twenty water men's sons, with the proceeds of a bequest made in 1684 by Mr. Thomas- Martyn, a merchant, saved from drowning by a Putney fisherman. The boys of the neighbouring parishes are eligible to be chosen, should those of Putney be insufficient in number. Opposite to this school, near the Thames, formerly stood the College oe Civil Engi- by her second husband, the following expression occurs : — " Vale, Vale, Maria ! nullum de te dolorem, nisi ex acerbissima' tu& morte, accepi." This had possibly been read by Pope, whose epitaph on the son of the Lord Chancellor Harcourt includes a simUar expression : — " Nor gave his father grief but when he died." VOL. III. D D 202 HISTORY OF SURREY. neers, founded by a subscription of the nobility and others about 1839, for the purpose of conferring a superior education on the sons of respectable persons in the engineering, mathematical, and mechanical sciences. The college was broken up in 1857, and the fine old mansion pulled down. Tavo ranges of houses, known as " The Cedars," from the old cedar-trees, which formerly flourished there, now occupy its site. National Schools have been. built, and since enlarged. A school-house and model lodging-houses have been built on. Lower Common. Lime Grove, formerly the seat of Lady St. Aubyn, relict of Sir George Aubyn, Bart., stood at the base of Putney Hill. It derived its name from a grove of limes which formed an avenue to the house. The grounds still possess many umbrageous walks, which opened at intervals to beautiful views of the river Thames and the surrounding country. The house was one of those thoroughly English mansions erected .for convenience and comfort rather than for ostentation and show. The apartments were spacious and lofty, and contained "a rich store of pictures and articles of virtu : among the former were many pieces by Opie, of whom Sir John St. Aubyn, the father of Sir George, was the early friend and constant patron. This house, was for some time the home of Edward Gibbon, the historian. He was born here on the ,27th of April (O.S.), 1737 ; his baptism, and that of his five younger brothers and a sister, may be seen recorded in the Parish Eegister. The site of Lime Grove is now occupied by modern villas. On Putney. Heath, at a little distance from the . fire-proof building, is Bowling-Green House, which derived its appellation from a fashionable place of entertainment that existed here in the early part of the last century, and was famous for its public breakfasts and evening assemblies ih the summer season. This estate was some time occupied by the Eight Hon. William Pitt, and here that statesman breathed his last on January 23rd, 1806. The mansion of John Temple Leader, Esq., formerly M.P. for Westminster, is situated on the ascent of Putney Hill, at the top of which is the handsome Elizabethan residence of Colonel and Lady North. The principal, houses on Putney Heath, most of which are OAvned by members of the aristocracy, possess a fine prospect over a wide range of country, comprising the Thames and a great portion of Middlesex, extending from Harrow to the sister eminences of Hampstead and Highgate. On Putney Heath is a reservoir in connection with the Chelsea Water Works. The water is transmitted hither from the company's works at Thames Ditton, and is conveyed thence by pipes down through the main street of Putney, and so across the Thames by an aqueduct Avhich spans the river on massive cylindrical supports a "¦¦ ^ ^ s ^ £ ^ Vj PUTNEY. 203 few yards above the old bridge. The annual boat race between the rival crews of the Oxford and Cambridge Universities takes place at Putney. The starting-point is near the iron aqueduct of the Chelsea Water Works Company, and Mortlake is the goal : the course is about i\ miles. The time occupied in the race has varied from about twenty- one to t\venty-five minutes. Owing to its healthy situation Putney is a favourite spot for charitable institutions. The most important of these is the Eoyal Hospital eor Incurables, situated on the summit of West Hill. This institution was founded in 1854 by the efforts of the late Dr. Andrew Eeed. It was established for the lifelong benefit of those persons above the pauper class suffering from incurable maladies. To persons having a home, but without the means of support, a pension of £20 a year is given. In 1863 the building now occupied as the Hospital was purchased, together with the freehold of 24 acres of land surrounding it. The edifice, formerly a large and distinguished family residence, was extended by the addition of two wings, and now affords accommodation for 200 inmates. It contains on an average about 150 patients, whilst upwards of 300 are in receipt of pensions from the charity at their own homes. This institution is unendowed, and therefore dependent on public charity. Near the western extremity of the heath is Eoehampton, a hamlet to Putney, which, from its pleasant situation and close vicinity to Eichmond Park, has long been a favourite place of retirement for persons of rank and affluence. Many good houses have in conse quence been built here during the last and present centuries, and the population has been much increased, though not to that extent as in other suburban districts Avhere manu factures have been introduced. On the west side of Eoehampton Lane a small chapel-of-ease to Putney, consisting only of nave, chancel, and south porch, was erected in 1842, from the designs of Mr. Benjamin Fcrrey, in the carly English or lancet style of architecture. In the following year it Avas consecrated by the Archbishop of Canterbury, and dedicated to the Holy Trinity. In 1845 the hamlet of Eoehampton was formed into an ecclesiastical parish from the civil parish of Putney, and in 1862 the chapel of the Holy Trinity Avas enlarged, so as to serve as the parish church. The living is a vicarage, in the gift of the Bishop of Eochester. Eoehampton House, the seat of the Leslie-Melville family, is a large mansion of red brick, with stone dressings, built for Thomas Cary, Esq., about 1712.* Tho saloon Avas * In the " Vitruvius Britannicus," vol. i., is an elevation of the chief front, which was of a very fanciful character, and said (on the plate) to be " Invented by Thomas Archer, Esq.," whom Walpole caUs the " groom-porter." Mr. Archer also designed the Church of St. John, near Millbauk, at Westminster, in a style yet more absurd than the above. DD 2 204 HISTORY OF SURREY. painted by Sir James Thornhill. The ceiling represents a Festival of the Gods on Olympus : the colouring is vivid, and the whole is in good preservation. The lawn, shrubberies, and pleasure grounds are extensive and judiciously disposed. Mount Clare, formerly the seat of Admiral Sir Charles Ogle, Bart., was built in 1772 by George Clive, Esq., who bought the estate at the rate of £300 per acre, on account of the fine situation of. the grounds, which command' beautiful views over Eichmond Park, &c, and in compliment- to his relation, Lord Clive, then -proprietor of Claremont, called it Mount Clare. In 1780 ,it;became the property of' Sir John Dick, Bart., who, with the assistance of Signor :P. Columb, a Milanese architect, added a Doric portico and other decorations, so as to. give the house the character of an Italian villa. Much attention was also given to the improvement of the; grounds and plantations. After the decease of Sir John Dick in 1804 this estate was transferred to Charles Hatchett, Esq., F.E.S., subsequently to Henry . Mildmay, Egq., and afterwards to Admiral Sir Charles Ogle. Bessborough House, an elegant mansion erected by Sir William Chambers for Brabason Ponsonby, Earl of Bessborough, is described in the "Vitruvius Britannicus," vol. iv., under the name of Parkstead. The Earl was distinguished for his patronage of the arts, but the fine "collection of antiques and pictures which he had formed at Eoehamp ton was mostly sold by auction in 1801. Frederick, the third earl, was appointed Lord Lieutenant of Ireland in 1845, and he died at Dublin in 1847. In the grounds, which are very extensive, is a summer-house in which Lord Bessborough used to enter tain the Prince of Wales with wine and cards. The mansion was purchased about 1860 by the Jesuits, who have turned it into a seminary for their order, and have named it Manresa House, after an episode in the life of their founder, St. Ignatius. A fine chapel has been added as a wing to the house, and the summer-house above mentioned has been converted into a little oratory. Viscountess Clifden has a handsome villa at Eoehampton : here likewise are Devon shire House, the seat of Mr. David Barclay Chapman, and The Eooeery, the residence of Mrs. Eobson. Earl Spencer is one of the principal landowners here. A violent whirlwind vfhich occurred at Eoehampton in October, 1780, occasioned great damage. From Bessborough House, at Eoehampton, its ravages extended to Hammer smith. The premises of a gardener near the lane leading to Barnes Common were nearly all blown down. Of seven persons who had fled into the barn for shelter, one was killed on the spot, and another died in consequence of the injuries he had received. On Lady Eggleton's grounds a large walnut-tree was torn up by the roots, and thrown to the HH ..'^. PUTNEY. 205 distance of 22 feet. A long avenue of hedgerow trees in Eoehampton Lane was thrown down. The workhouse on Barnes Common was much damaged, and a windmill overturned. At Hammersmith the church door was forced open, and a large window on the opposite side shattered into pieces. The earth in many places in the line of the progress of the whirlwind was torn up as if ploughed.* Among the eminent natives and former residents in this parish the following persons may be noticed : — Nicholas West, LL.D., Bishop of Ely, was the son of a baker, and born at Putney. After studying at Eton, he went to King's College, Cambridge, in 1477. There,, says Fuller, " he was a Rakel [Eakehell] in grain ; for something crossing him in the Colledge, he could find no other way to work his revenge than by secret setting on fire the Master's lodgings, part whereof he burnt to the ground." f Wood's statement of this affair is that West, having raised a quarrel about the proctorship of the university, " when he could not obtain his desires, he set fire to the Provost's lodgings, stole away silver spoons, and ran away from the College." % He then for a time led an erratic and idle life, but at length reformed his conduct, studied hard, became an excellent scholar, and an able diplomatist. In 1502 he obtained the vicarage of Kingston, in Surrey, and in 1510 was made Dean of Windsor, whence, in May, 1515, he was promoted to the bishopric of Ely, and Henry VIII. employed him repeatedly in foreign embassies. In 1529, when an investigation of the legality of the marriage of the King with Catherine of Arragon took place before Wolsey and Campeggio, the Papal commissioners, Bishop West, with Fisher, Bishop of Eochester, and others, was appointed td manage the Queen's defence. He died in 1533, and was interred in the cathedral church of Ely. It ought to be mentioned that this prelate, as some atonement for his youthful irregularities, became a benefactor to the place of his education, and rebuilt the master's lodgings, which in his youth he had attempted to destroy. Godwin says that the style of his living was so magnificent that he kept in his house one hundred servants, to fifty of whom he gave 4 marks wages, and to the others 40s., allowing each of them 7| yards of cloth for summer and winter liveries. Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, and Prime Minister of Henry VIII. after the fall of Cardinal Wolsey, was the son of a blacksmith at Putney. The place of his birth is yet pointed out by tradition, and in some measure corroborated by a survey of Wimbledon manor taken in 1617; for it describes upon that spot "an ancient cottage called the * Vide Lysons, " Environs," vol. i. pp. 434, 435 : from a pamphlet, with engravings, pubhshed by Edw. Edwards in 1781. t FuUer, "Worthies," vol. ii. p. 358, edit. 1811. X " Athense Oxon." vol. i. col. 653. 206 HISTORY OF SURREY. Smith's Shop, lying west of the highway leading from Putney to the Upper gate, and on the south side of the highway from Eichmond to Wandsworth, having the sign of the Anchor." Scarcely anything is known of the early career of this statesman, until we find him in the service of Wolsey, by Avhom he was employed, in 1527, in suppressing a number of the smaller religious foundations, the revenues of which AV'ere to be appropriated to the support of new colleges at Ipswich and Oxford. The agency of Cromwell on this occasion probably contributed more than anything else to procure him similar employ ment, and consequent promotion as a servant of the Crown. He was appointed a Privy Councillor, Master of the Jewel Office, Clerk of the Hanaper, Chancellor of the Exchequer, Principal Secretary of State, Master of the Eolls, Visitor General of the religious founda tions, Lord Privy Seal ; and, on the abolition of the Papal supremacy in England, he Avas constituted Vicar General of the spiritualities, in virtue of which he presided at the Convocation held in 1537, taking his place above the Archbishop of Canterbury. Ho also held the offices of Chief Justice in Eyre north of the Trent, and Constable of Caris- brooke Castle, in the Isle of Wight. In 1537 he was raised to the peerage as Baron of Okeham, in Eutlandshire, and in 1540 created Earl of Essex. A few months only after this last promotion he was executed as a traitor on Tower Hill, his imperious and tyrannical master having apparently taken umbrage against him for advancing his marriage with Anne of Cleves. Edward Gibbon, the celebrated author of the " History of the Decline and Fall of the Eoman Empire," was born at Putney on April 27th (O.S.), 1737. Being the only surviving son of a gentleman possessing an independent fortune, he did not adopt any profession or lucrative occupation. Part of his youth was spent with his aunt, at the house of his maternal grandfather, near Putney Bridge. He passed a few years at Westminster School, and about fourteen months at Magdalen College, Oxford. The immediate cause of his removal thence was his conversion to the Catholic faith, a circumstance which induced his father to send him to Lausanne, in Switzerland, and place him under the tutelage of Mr. Pavilliard, a Calvinist minister, who effected the reconversion of his pupil to Protestantism, of which he made a public profession on Christmas Day, 1754. He returned to England in 1758, having during his absence acquired a competent acquaintance with the Latin, Greek, and French languages and literature. About 1761 he obtained a commission in the Hampshire militia, of which after some years he became Lieutenant- Colonel. He had subsequently a seat in Parliament, and for a few years held the office of a Lord of Trade and Plantations. He travelled in France and Italy in 1763 — 1765, after which he settled in London, where he continued until 1783, when he removed to Lausanne, at PUTNEY. 207 which place, with the exception of a few months passed in England in 1787 and 1788, he resided until 1793. He died in London in 1794. Gibbon's first publication was a tract in French entitled " Essai sur l'Etude de la Litterature," 1761, 12mo. In the same language he published, in conjunction with Mr. George Deyverdun, a literary journal or revieAV, under the title of " Memoires Lit- teraires de la Grande Bretagne," in two volumes, 1767, 1768. He commenced the publication of his great work, written at Lausanne, on the History of Imperial Eome, in 1776, and the sixth and last volume appeared in 1788. This work has been several times reprinted in octavo. His Miscellaneous Works, including autobiographical memoirs, were published by his friend, Lord Sheffield, in 1796. Lysons states that the house in which Gibbon was born, and Avhich was afterwards purchased by Mr. Eobert Wood (of whom a notice follows) " is situated between the roads which lead to Wandsworth and Wimbledon. The farm and pleasure grounds which adjoin the house are very spacious, containing near 80 acres, and command a beautiful prospect of London and the adjoining country." In the early part of the last century this estate was the property of the late John Pooley Kensington, Esq., a banker of London, Sheriff of Surrey in 1803, and Colonel of the 3rd Eegiment of the City Volunteers. Among the residents at Putney who were distinguished as literary characters was Eobert Wood, Esq., M.P., Under-Secretary of State when Wilkes was prosecuted for publishing a libel on George III. This gentleman was a native of Ireland, and having travelled in Greece, Egypt, Arabia, and Syria, he published in 1753 " The Euins of Palmyra, otherwise Tedmor in the Desert," in folio, illustrated with engravings from his own drawings; and in 1757 appeared "The Euins of Baalbec," in the same style. He was also the author of an " Essay on the Genius of Homer, with a View of the Ancient and Present State of the Troad," 1775, 4to, reprinted in 1797. He died in 1771, and was interred in the new burial-ground on the upper road to Eichmond. The inscription to his memory was written by the Hon. Horace Walpole. John Toland, MA., a deistical writer in the earlier part of the last century, spent the later years of his life in lodgings at a carpenter's in Putney, Avhere he died in 1722, and was buried in the churchyard. He was born near Londonderry in 1670, and he received his education at the University of Glasgow ; but he also, studied at Edinburgh, Leyden, and Oxford. He possessed great talents and learning, but his open scepticism, both in his conversation and writings, gave offence to many. His most noted works are those entitled "Christianity not Mysterious," published in 1696; "Life of John Milton," 1698; "Amyntor, or a Defence of Milton's Life," 1699; " Origines JudaicEe," 208 HISTORY OF SURREY. published in Holland about 1709; " Tetradymus," &c, 1720; " Pantheisticon," in Latin, 1720 ; and a " History of the British Druids : " the latter was published with other posthumous works, and reprinted in 1807. Many of Toland's manuscripts are in the British Museum. He was an adept in more than ten languages. TOOTING, OR LOWER TOOTING* The parish of Tooting is bordered on the north by Wandsworth, on the east by Streatham, and by Mitcham on the south and west. The soil in general consists of clay intermixed with gravel, and the land is chiefly arable. In most records the name of this place is written with the addition of Graveney, which should more properly be Gravenell, being the name of persons who held considerable property here in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. There were two, or rather three, manors called Totinges (Tooting) at the time of the Doomsday survey, besides that held of the gift of Eichard de Tonbridge by the monks of St. Mary de Bee, and therefore styled the manor of Tooting Bee, described in the account of Streatham. One of these manors is thus noticed in the Doomsday Book, among the lands of the Abbot of St. Peter's, Westminster : — " The Abbot holds Totinges, which Swain or Sweyn held of King Edward, when it was assessed at 4 hides. The arable land amounts to \\ carucates. There are two villains, with half a carucate, and 3 acres of meadow. In the time of King Edward it was valued at 40s., and the same at present; but when the Abbot received it, at only 20s. " Earl Wallef obtained this land from Swain, after the death of King Edward, and he mortgaged it, for 2 marks of gold, to Alnothus the Londoner, who gave his interest in it to St. Peter, for the health of his soul. Odbert holds it of the Abbot, exempt from payment of geld." This manor is supposed to have been joined either with the manor of Tooting Bee in Streatham, or with that of Tooting Graveney. The other estates are thus described in the Doomsday Book : — " Haimo the Sheriff holds Totinges of the Abbot of Certesy. In the time of King Edward it was assessed at 6 hides, wanting 1 virgate: now at nothing. The arable land consists of 3 carucates. There is 1 carucate in demesne; and three villains, and two bordars, with 1 carucate. There is a church ; and 4 acres of meadow. In the time of King Edward, it was valued at 40s. ; afterwards, at 20s. ; and now, at 70s. * Upper Tooting is chiefly situated in the parish of Streatham. TOOTING, OR LOWER TOOTING. 209 " The same Haimo holds of the Abbot 1 hide, held of King Edward by Osward, who could remove whither he pleased. There is one villain, with half a carucate, and 1 acre of meadow. In the time of King Edward, it was valued at 15s. ; now at 10s." Hamo de Gravenell, in the reign of Henry II., gave to the Prior of St. Mary Overey the tithes and advoAvson of the church of Tooting, and the grant was confirmed by Eichard, Bishop of Winchester. King John, in 1216, granted to Denis, his chaplain, the land at Tooting which had belonged to Eichard de Gravenell, who had probably lost the estate in consequence of having taken part with the barons in their contest with the King. If so, however, the lands must have been shortly restored, for it is stated in the Testa de Nevill that the heirs of Eichard de Gravenell held one knight's fee in Tooting of the Abbot of Chertsey. In 13 Edward I. Bartholomew de Castello obtained a charter of free-warren for himself and his heirs in this manor. Thomas de Lodelowe died in 1314, seized of the manor of Totinge Gravenel, consisting of a capital messuage, garden, dovecote, 100 acres of arable land, 12 of meadow, 5 of pasture, 4 of woodland, rents of assize, &c, held of the Abbot of Chertsey in capite, as half a knight's fee. Katherine, widow of Thomas de Lodelowe, son and heir of the preceding, held this manor in 1394 by the payment of a rose at the feast of St. John the Baptist. On her decease in the same year the inheritance devolved on Margaret, daughter of Thomas Lodelowe, and wife of Sir John Dymock, whose family continued its possessors for nearly two centuries. Sir Edward Dymock, about 1593, transferred this property to James Harrington, Esq., by whom, in 1597, it was conveyed to Sir Henry Maynard, secretary to Lord Burghley ; and it was probably to him that Queen Elizabeth paid her visit when at Tooting in 1600. William, his eldest son, was advanced to the peerage, but this estate was held, possibly under a marriage settlement, by Sir John Maynard, his second son, made a Knight of the Bath at the coronation of Charles I. He sat in several Parliaments, and in 1647, together with Denzil Holies, Sir William Waller, and other leaders of the Presbyterian party, was impeached of high treason. Maynard was committed to the Tower, but the prosecution was discontinued. On his decease in 1658 this estate descended to his son and heir, John, who died in 1664, leaving a daughter Mary, wife of Sir Edward Honeywood, Bart. Sir Paul Wichcote, Bart., was owner of this property prior to 1695, and in that year the royal assent was given in Parliament, enabling him and Dame Jane, his wife, to make "leases for ninety -nine years of the manor of Tooting-Graveney, and any of his messuages, lands, and hereditaments in Tooting-Graveney, Tooting-Becke, and Streatham, in the county of Surrey, for the better improvement thereof." The manor was subsequently purchased vol. hi. e e 210 HISTORY OF SURREY. by James Bateman, Esq., afterwards knighted, an Alderman of London, and Lord Mayor in 1717 : he died in 171 8, and was buried by night with great pomp in Tooting Church. His son John sold this manor, with his other property in Surrey, under the authority of an Act passed in 11 George I., to Percival Lewis, Esq., of Putney, from whom it descended to his grandson of the same name, whose estate here was sold by auction in 1767 for £24,925. Morgan Eice, Esq., a distiller, who bought the manor and part of the land, built a good house on the rising ground above the church, and was appointed Sheriff of Surrey in 1772. Soon after his decease in 1795 this manor Avas sold to Thomas Piatt, Esq. ; it has since passed successively into the hands of the Poles, Barings, Thomases, &c. Advowson, &c. — On the dissolution of the priory of St. Mary Overey this advowson became vested in the CroAvn, and was granted by Edward VI. to Edward Fynes, Lord Clinton and Say, afterwards Earl of Lincoln. It was subsequently repeatedly transferred by sale, until it came into the possession of Sir James Bateman, who held the manor, as stated above, and James, his son, about 1725, sold both to Percival Lewis, Esq. The latter conveyed the advowson to the Eev. Nicholas Brady, whose only daughter, Martha, was married to the Eev. Dr. Henry Allenr instituted to this living in 1769. He afterwards sold the advowson to the Eev. G. F. Barlow, who succeeded him as vicar, and then disposed of the patronage to Peter Broadley, Esq. The present patron is the Eev. George S. Flack, who is also rector. This benefice, in the diocese of Eochester and archdeaconry of Southwark, is described in the Valor of Henry VIII. as paying a pension of 5s. to the Prior of St. Mary's, and 4s. 6d. for procurations and synodals. In the Taxation of Pope Nicholas it is valued at 40s., and in the King's books at £8 8s. 6^d. The Eegister commences in 1555. The church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, was rebuilt in 1822 from the designs of Mr. Atkinson, reconsecrated in 1833, and further enlarged in 1873 and 1876. It is in the pointed style, and has a well-proportioned tower of four stories. The east window is enriched with stained glass, the gift of the late E. G. Thomas, Esq., lord of the manor : the side windows are also bordered with stained glass. In the central part of the Gothic altar screen is a good copy, presented by Mr. Bates, of the " Salvator Mundi " by Sir James Thornhill. Among the sepulchral memorials removed from the old church is a tablet in memory of Sir John Hebdon, Knt., twice Envoy to Eussia under Charles I. and Charles II., " for whose interest he spared neither purse nor person, though to the prejudice of his owne." He died in 1670. Capt. Philip Gidley King, E.N., formerly Govemer of New South Wales, who died in 1802, Avas buried in the south aisle. A more recent tablet records WANDSWORTH. 211 the memory of Eichard Alsager, Esq., M.P. for East Surrey, and " one of the Elder Brothers of the Trinity House," who died in 1841. In the churchyard are the tombs of Sir John Maynard, K.B., and his son, Sir John Maynard, Knt., who died in 1658 and 1664 respectively. Rectors of Tooting Graveney in and since 1800 :* — 1.— Robert Broadley, B.A. Inducted in 1801. 2. — John Ravenhill, B.A. Instituted in 1805. 3. — John Buxton Marsden, M.A. Inducted in 1833. 4. — Richard Wilson Greaves, M.A. Instituted in 1844. 5. — John Congreve, M.A. Instituted in 1867. 6. — George Sutton Flack, M.A. Instituted in 1875. Between the churchyard and the Mitcham road is an artesian well : it was sunk at the cost of the parishioners, and a fountain raised over it in 1823. It produces an abundant and constant supply, the water being directed to several small fountains in the village: the depth of the well is about 130 feet. The cemetery belonging to the parish of Lambeth is at Lower Tooting : it covers about 20 acres of land. Near the church, on the road to Streatham, are schools for boys and girls on the National system. At Tooting and its neighbourhood, as in most of the suburban villages in Surrey, are numerous seats of retired merchants and tradesmen, several of them being elegant villas, with extensive grounds annexed. Of these, Hill House, formerly the seat of the late Mr. Alderman Venables, is one of the most conspicuous. Tooting Bee Common, nearly 150 acres in extent, is under the management of the Metropolitan Board of Works, and preserved as an " open space " for the recreation of the South Londoners. There is at Tooting a meeting-house for Independents, which, Lysons says, "owes its origin to the celebrated Daniel Defoe, who first formed the Dissenters of that neighbour hood into a regular society soon after the Eevolution." WANDSWORTH. The village which gives name to this parish is situated on the banks of the river Wandle, whence it was called Wandlesivorth, and in the Doomsday Book Wendelesorde, the termination worth in the Saxon language, according to Lysons, signifying a village or a shore. On the north this parish is bounded by the Thames, on the east by Battersea, * Samuel Lisle, D.D., who was instituted to Tooting in 1720-21, and resigned the hving in 1729, was raised to the bishopric of St. Asaph in 1743. He was subsequently translated to Norwich, and died in 1749. E E 2 2i2 HISTORY OF SURREY. on the south by Streatham and Tooting, and on the west by Putney and Wimbledon. The soil in general is a sandy loam, with a subsoil of gravel. The following particulars of this place are derived from the Doomsday Book : — ¦ " William Fitz-Ansculf holds Wendelesorde, which was held of ..King Edward, by six socmen \_socmanni~], who could remove whither they pleased. There were two Halls. Then and now it was assessed at 12 hides. The arable land consists of 4 carucates. Ansculf had this land after he received the Shrievalty ; but the men of the hundred say they never saw seal or livery. Ansfrid held 5 hides, now assessed for 1 hide ; Eldred 3 hides, now for nothing; Wolfward [Vluuardus] 3 hides; Walter the Huntsman [Vinitor] 1 hide, which never paid geld. In the lands of these men are 2\ carucates in demesne ; and five villains, and twenty bordars, with 2 carucates ; and 22 acres of meadow. The whole manor, in the time of King Edward, was rated at 110s. ; afterwards at 50s. ; now at £8 in all." " The Abbot of St. Vandreuil [St. Wandregesil] holds Wandesorde, by Ingulph the monk. Sweyn held it of King Edward, and could remove whither he pleased. It was then, assessed at 1 hide ; now at nothing. There are three villains, and two bordars, with 1 carucate. It was and is valued at 20s." In the survey of Battersea, which was held by the Abbot of Westminster, it is stated that " the toll of Wandelesorde yielded £6 to the Abbot." At the present time there are four reputed manors, either wholly or in part in this parish ; namely, Battersea and Wandsworth, Downe, Dunsfold, and Alfarthing. The Manor oe Battersea and Wandsworth. — The land called Wendelesorde in the Doomsday Book, and recorded to be held by William Fitz-Ansculf, appears to have been illegally acquired by his father whilst Sheriff of Surrey. The jurors testified that they had not seen either seal or livery respecting it, and in consequence the King is supposed to have seized the land, and to have given it to the Abbot of Westminster, by whom it was annexed to Battersea. The Manor oe Downe, or Downe-buys. — This manor is thought to have had origin in some one of the parcels of land mentioned in the Doomsday Book as held by Ansfrid, Eldred, and others. Eobert de la Dune, in the reign of Henry III., held one- third of a knight's fee in Wendelesworth from the Abbot of Westminster. In a record of 51 Edward III. it is stated that the abbot held this manor (valued at £4) under the King in frank-almoigne. After the suppression it remained among the possessions of the Crown until Elizabeth, in 1581, granted it to William Cammock, who next year conveyed it to Sir William Cecil, afterwards Lord Burghley. From him this manor ^^n^^ w/a^tcA, /SS0. lillom Q^i& YY^7c?s JZ&C14& at J^L. ic&n. Erected & Endowed, by Miss Woods of Shop "Wyke •s0%7 lOUDON, VIRTUE &.C°LDnTEB WANDSWORTH. 213 descended to his grandson Edward, Viscount Wimbledon, whose daughters and coheiresses sold it to Mrs. Elizabeth Howland, of Streatham. By the marriage of her daughter Elizabeth with Wriothesley, Marquis of Tavistock, this manor, with Streatham and other estates, became vested in the Eussell family; and in 1792 Francis, Duke of Bedford, sold Downe to George John, second Earl Spencer, whose grandson, the fifth and present earl, is noAv owner. The manor of Dunsfold, which before the Eeformation belonged to Merton Priory, was granted by Henry VIII. to Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, who sold it to Thomas, Lord Cromwell, for £403 6s. 8d. On his attainder in 1541 it reverted to the Crown. Queen Elizabeth, in 1564, granted it to her favourite, Eobert Dudley, afterwards Earl of Leicester, of whom it was purchased by Sir William Cecil, and in 7 Elizabeth conveyed by him to John Swift, Esq.* He sold it to Thomas Smith, Esq., who held his first court here in 1569, and whose descendant, George Smith, in 1661, transferred it to Sir Alan Brodrick, ancestor of William Brodrick, eighth Viscount Midleton. The Manor of Alearthing. — This manor appears to have anciently belonged to the Molyns family, of whom John, Lord Molyns, in 8 Edward III., obtained a grant of free- warren in all his demesne lands in Halverthing and Wandsworth. Alianor, daughter and sole heiress of William Molyns, or de Molines, was married in 1441 to Eobert Hungerford, summoned to Parliament as Lord de Molines in right of his wife by Henry VI. , for espousing whose cause in the War of the Eoses he was attainted and beheaded in 1463, when his estates escheated to the Crown. Henry VIII. annexed this manor to the honour * The foUowing is an abstract (translated) from the Deed of Feofment relating to the Dunsfold (Downeforthe) and Garrett estates in Wandsworth, enroUed in Chancery in 1564, and entered on the Dorse of the Close RoU in the same yeai : — " Know aU men that I WiUiam CecUl, Knt., Principal Secretary to the Queen, and Master of the Court of AVards and Liveries, for a competent sum of lawful money of England, paid me by John Swifte, Esq., of London, have dehvered and enfeoffed the said John Swifte and Margaret his Wife in all that my Lordship and Manor of Downeforthe or Donne- forth, in the co. of Surrey, which belonged to the lately dissolved Monastery of Marten [Morton], and was afterwards annexed to the Honour of Hampton Court. — And also all that Messuage or Tenement, with its appurtenances, called 'the Garrett,' in the Parish of Wannesworthe, Surrey, with all the arable lands, meadows, fields, pastures, and heredita ments whatsoever, being part and parcel of the same, and usually heretofore demised and held with it ; and likewise all my tithes, greater and less, predial and personal, arising within the said parish of AVannesworth, now ur lately in the occupation of John Bowland or his assigns, formerly pertaining to the Mi mastery of Marten, and afterwards annexed tu the Honour of Hampton Court ; and all and singular the premises which I the before-named AVilliam Cecill had and obtained for myself and my heirs for ever, from the most noble. Robert Duddeley, K.( )., Earl of Leicester, and whieh he held under a grant of our Lady Queen Ehzabeth, by letters patent dated Juno 9th, in the 5th year of her reign. I assure, in the most full and ample form, the above-mentioned Lordship, Manor and Tenements to the fore-named John Swifte' Margaret his wife, and their heirs and assigns. Moreover, be it known that I WiUiam CeciU have constituted and ordained Anthony Rotsey and Robert Hodgeson, Gentlemen, to be my true and lawful attorney*, to give seisin and possession of the above premises. in Witness, &c. " Signed W. Cecill ; and sealed with Ms Crest ; and dated March 17th, 1564 : the 7th of Queen Elizabeth." 214 HISTORY OF SURREY. of Hampton Court; but subsequently, in 1534, he granted it for a term of sixty years to Thomas, Lord Cromwell. After its reversion to the Crown by his attainder, the King regranted it (apparently on lease) to Eobert Draper, Esq., Page of the Jewel Office, by the marriage of whose daughter Elizabeth with John Bowyer, Esq., it was transferred to that family ; and Sir Edward Bowyer, of Camberwell, held a court here in 21 James I. That monarch settled the manor on Prince Charles, who, after his accession to the throne in 1625, demised it for a term of ninety-nine years to Sir Henry Hobart and others. After wards, in 1629, the King granted this estate in fee-simple to Thomas Porter, Esq., whose descendant, John Porter, Esq., married Catherine, daughter of Lieut.-Gen. Sutton, leaving, at his decease in 1764, one son and five daughters. One of the latter married Pierce Walsh, of an honourable Irish family ; and to their son, Pierce Patrick Walsh, Esq., this manor was bequeathed by his maternal uncle on condition of his taking the name of Porter. He died in 1809, and was succeeded by his son, the late Walsh Porter, Esq., who enfranchised much of the copyhold property, and in 1811 sold the manor to the Eev. Mr. White, by whom, in 1816, it was resold to Earl Spencer. Advowson, &c. — The rectory and advowson, previously belonging to the Abbot of Westminster, became vested in the Crown after the dissolution of the monasteries, and Henry VIII. annexed the former to the honour of Hampton Court. In 1581 Queen Elizabeth gave both rectory and advowson to Edward Downing and Peter Ashton ; and they were afterAvards transferred conjointly to successive proprietors until 1731, Avhen Mr. John Acworth, who then held them, sold the rectorial tithes to the trustees of Marshall's charity for augmenting small livings. But he retained the advowson, which was held by his grandson, Thomas Acworth, who died in 1783, when it fell to his three sisters and coheiresses. It was afterwards purchased by the Eev. E. H. Butcher, and subsequently by Dr. Pemberton and Dr. Eobinson, but is now in the gift of the Eev. J. Buckmaster, the present vicar. This benefice is a vicarage, in the deanery of Southwark. In 20 Edward I. it was valued at 10 marks ; in the King's books at £15 5s. 5d., paying 7s. 73-d. for procurations, and 2s. ld. for synodals. The earliest Eegister commences in 1603, but is very defective. The following entries of longevity are given by Lysons : — Ahce Palladaye, widow, aged 114 years, buried March 25, 1622. Mr. Thomas Tayer, aged 101, buried Dec. 30, 1653. Mary Cross, widow, aged 102 years, buried August 5, 1760. The following entry also occurs :— Sarah, daughter of Praise Barbono, was buried AprU 13, 1635. This is considered by Lysons to refer to a daughter of the celebrated Puritan nick- WANDSWORTH. 215 named " Praise God Barebone," a distinguished member of the Parhament which has been designated by his name. He was a leather-seller in Fleet Street. Vicars of Wandsworth in and since 1800 : * — - 1. — Robert Holt Butcher, LL.B. Instituted in 1778. 2. — William Borradaile, D.D. Instituted in 1823. 3. — Daniel Charles Delafosse, D.D. Instituted in 1838. 4. — Edward Robert Pemberton, D.C.L. Instituted in 1844. 5. — Richard Zateward Townsend, M.A. Instituted in 1850. 6. — John Buckmaster, M.A. Instituted in 1856. All Saints' Church. — We have no account of the origin of this church, but it must have been prior to the time of Bishop Toecliffe, who appropriated the rectory to the see of Winchester about a.d. 1180. His successor, Godfrey de Lucy, ordained that the monks should receive an annual pension of 6 marks out of the revenues of the church, leaving the vicar enough to support himself and to pay the episcopal burdens. The old church was almost wholly taken down in 1780, and the present structure was built in its stead, at an expense of about £3,500. At the west end is a square tower of two stories, the lowermost of which formed part of the old tower, but was recased in 1841, a belfry story being raised upon it. The latter, which is pierced with three circular- headed windows on each side in the Italian style, is terminated by an ornamented parapet, surmounted at each angle by a vase. The whole is of light-coloured brick, with stone dressings. It contains a fine set of eight bells, cast by Mears, of Whitechapel, in 1841. The interior, almost a square, was repaired and redecorated in 1828. Its galleries are spacious, and on the front panelling of those to the south and west are numerous inscrip tions in gilt letters, recording the charitable benefactions made to the poor. The ceiling over the nave is waggon-shaped, but that over the aisles is flat. Among the old monuments replaced after the enlargement of the church are the following : — Against the east wall, south of the chancel, is the mural monument of Mr. Alderman Smith, a native of Wandsworth, whose memory will ever be revered on account of his extensive and useful charities. It is architecturally designed, and exhibits within an arched recess a statue of the deceased in a gown and ruff, kneeling devotionally at a * Stow has recorded the fate of Griffith. Clarke, Vicar of Wandsworth, who (together with his chaplain, his servant, and Friar AVaire) was hanged and quartered at St. Thomas Waterings in 1539. The chronicler professes himself ignorant of the cause of their execution, but Lysons says that they probably suffered for denying the King's supremacy. (" Environs," &c. vol. i. p. 510.) 2l6 HISTORY OF SURREY. desk and holding a skull. At the sides are Ionic columns supporting an entablature surmounted by a shield of arms, and two small figures bearing emblems of mortality. On a tablet beneath the plinth is this inscription :— Here lyeth the body of Henry Smith, Esquire, sometime Citizen and Alderman of London, who departed this life the 3d day of January, anno Dni 1627, being neere the age of 79 years, whome while he lived gave unto the several Townes in Surrey foUowing, one thousand pounds apiece to buy lands for perpetuity for ye relief and setting the poor people a-worke in the said Towns, viz. to the Towne of Croydon one thousand pounds ; to the Towne of Kingston one thousand pounds ; to the Towne of Guildford one thousand pounds ; to the Towne of Dorking one thousand pounds ; to the Towne of Farnham one thousand pounds ; and by his last WiU and Testament did further give and devise, to buy lands for perpetuity for the reliefe and setting their poore a-worke unto the Towne of Rygate one thousand pounds ; unto the Towne of Richmond one especialtye or debt of a thousand pounds ; and unto the Towne of Wandsworth, wherein he was borne, the sum of 500 pounds, for the same uses as before ; and did further will and bequeath one thousand pounds to buy lands for perpetuity to redeeme poore captives and prisoners from the Turkish tyranie. And not here stinting his charity and bounty did also give and bequeath the most part of his estate, being to a great value, for the purchasing lands of inheritance for ever for the releife of the poore and setting them a-worke. A pattern worthy the imitation of those whom God hath blessed with the abundance of the goods of this hfe to follow him herein. Besides the above, the following lines, inscribed on brass, are on a gravestone in the upper part of the nave : — Mole sub Mc quseris quis conditur, optime lector, Cuius et qualis, quantus in orbe fuit ? A dextris muri, statuam tu cernere possis Oranti similem, marmore de Pario ; Subter quam statuam cernatur tabula sculpta Auratis verbis qua? tibi cuncta notant. Depositum Henb' Smith Senatoris Londinensis. Another mural monument displays a small kneeling figure of Mrs. Susanna Powel, a benefactress to this parish. She was the daughter of Thomas Hayward, Yeoman of the Guard to Henry VIII., Edward VL, Mary, and Elizabeth, and died in 1630. On another monument, north of the chancel, are white marble busts of Sir Thomas Brodrick, and Katherine his relict, with inscriptions in Latin: the former died in 1641, and the latter in 1678.* Among the modern tablets is one in memory of the Eev. Eobert Holt Butcher, LL.B., and others of his family : he died in 1822, having been forty-four years minister of this parish. On a grave-slab near the pulpit is an ancient brass of a knight in armour, but much defaced : the date is 1420, temp. Henry V., but the name has long been broken off and lost. The adjoining churchyard is small; but there are two others, the earlier on the * Sir Alan Brodrick, Knt., Surveyor General of Ireland, ob. Nov. 25, 1680, a benefactor to this parish ; Alan Brodrick, first Viscount Midleton, ob. 1747; George Brodrick, second viscount; and several others of the family, are buried in vaults in this church. WANDSWORTH. 217 East Hill, and the other, consecrated in 1808 in Garrett Lane : these contain many tombs and other sepulchral memorials. St. Anne's, on St. Anne's Hill, now a district church, was erected from the designs of Mr. (afterwards Sir) Eobert Smirke, and completed in 1822, but it was not consecrated until 1824 : the contract for its erection was £14,600, which was defrayed by the Com missioners for building new churches. The ground-plan is nearly a parallelogram (of about 100 feet by 70 feet), with a hexastyle portico and pediment of the Ionic order, annexed to the west end, and an embowed recess, with vestries, at the east end. The body of the church is constructed of brick, with stone dressings ; the portico, &c, is of stone. From the central part of the roof, behind the portico, rises a cylindrical steeple of two stories : the lower story is surrounded by eight antaa, sustaining an entablature and cornice, and the upper story (which has a circular stylobate, pierced with four apertures for dials) with engaged columns : the whole is surmounted by a hemispherical dome and gilt cross. The interior is divided into nave and aisles by six square piers on each side, with moulded caps, and these, together with intervening pedestals, support a colonnade of slender Doric columns, on which rests a horizontal ceiling. Here are large side galleries and a spacious western gallery, occupying two of the intercolumniations. The number of sittings is about 1,800, of which the greater portion are free. The other churches in Wandsworth are St. Mary's Summer's Town; St. Paul's, on St. John's Hill ; and Holt Trinity, near the outskirts of Wimbledon Park. Another place of worship here is the Eoman Catholic chapel of St. Thomas of Canterbury, opened in 1847. There are also many places of worship for Dissenters. Wandsworth is an extensive village, and, from its population, shops, and manu factories, has the air and bustle of a market town. Here are a police court and station ; a county court ; and a Union workhouse for the Wandsworth, Battersea, Putney, Streatham, and Clapham districts, on the East Hill. The County Prison for Surrey, on Wandsworth Common, was built in 1851, and covers a large extent of ground. The various buildings are principally of brick, and the prison possesses all the latest appliances for preserving order and discipline amongst the inmates. In the High Street is a small bridge crossing the Wandle, which, from a minute in the churchwardens' accounts quoted by Lysons, appears to have been originally built at the expense of Queen Elizabeth in 1602 : it was rebuilt with three arches in 1820. Aubrey, writing about 1673, says, "Here is a bridge call'd the Sink of the Country." * * " Surrey," vol. i. p. 14. VOL. III. F E 2I8 HISTORY OF SURREY. The same writer mentions at Wandsworth a manufacture " of Brass plates for kettles, skellets, frying-pans, &c, by Dutch Men, who keep it a Mystery." The houses wherein this was established long bore the name of the " Frying-pan houses." Additional manufac tures, as hatting, dyeing, &c, were introduced by a colony of French refugees, whom the persecutions consequent upon the revocation of the Edict of Nantes by Louis XIV. had driven from their native country. For the purposes of their own worship they enlarged a chapel (standing somewhat back from the High Street) erected by the Puritans in the reign of Elizabeth, and their descendants continued to occupy it until the end of the last century, the service being performed in French. The chapel, a low and plain building, has been repaired and altered, and is now used by a congregation of Independents. Between Wandsworth and Tooting is the hamlet of Garrett,* which, from the records of the manor of Dunsfold, appears to have consisted, in the early part of Queen Elizabeth's reign, of a single house called " The Garrett : " this was sold by Wm. Cecil, afterwards Lord Burghley, to John Swift, in 1564. It was afterwards the mansion of the Brodricks, but was pulled down about a century ago, and the grounds pertaining to it were subse quently let to a market gardener. When Lysons wrote there were about fifty houses in this hamlet ; but the buildings in Garrett Lane and its neighbourhood being greatly augmented, and the population so much increased that a new church became necessary for their accommodation, this was supplied by the munificence of Mr. Joshua Stanger. This edifice was dedicated to St. Mary, and opened for divine worship in 1838. It is built in the lancet style of architecture, with a square tower, surmounted by a small octagonal spire at the west end. It is called St. Mary's Summer's Town. In this parish are two National Schools, British and Commercial Schools, two Infant Schools, and also Industrial and Board Schools. The resident gentry of Wandsworth are chiefly located on the East and West Hills, and on the skirts of the common. Among the chief mansions on the Kingston road is Melrose Hall, uoav the Eoyal Hospital for Incurables. This institution was founded in 1854 at Carshalton; it Avas afterwards removed to Putney, whence, in 1863, it was again removed to the present building, which has been enlarged to meet the requirements of the Hospital : it holds 200 patients, and is supported entirely by voluntary contributions. On West Hill is a fine mansion erected by Lady Eivers, and afterwards purchased by * This hamlet was formerly notorious for its mock election of a Mayor upon the meeting of every new Parhament. The candidates were generally half-idiotic and deformed persons, who were urged forward and furnished with gaudy clothing and gay equipages by the publicans, who, as Lysons remarks, " made a good harvest of the day's frolic." This once-popular scene of confusion and riot gave origin to Foote's amusing farce entitled The Mayor of Garrett. The last Garrett election was in 1796. Its most celebrated members (mock knights as well as mayors) were Sir Jeoffrey Dunstan, a hawker of old wigs, and Sir Harry Dimsdale, a muffin crier, of both of whom portraits are extant. WANDSWORTH. 219 John Anthony Eucker, Esq., a Hamburg and Eussia merchant, whose descendants still hold the estate. On the top of East Hill stands St. Peter's Hospital (the almshouses of the Fish mongers' Company), removed hither from Newington Butts. The edifice, which was completed in 1851, occupies three sides of a quadrangle, with a chapel in the centre, and provides a home for 42 poor members of the company and their wives. The principal entrance to the Hospital is by massive gilded gates, on which is the motto, u All worship be to God only." In Spanish Eoad, near the Fishmongers' Almshouses, is the Friendless Boys' Home. This is a Araluable refuge for boys from ten to sixteen years of age, "who have either lost their characters, or are in danger of doing so." The average number of boys in the Home is about 200. This institution was founded in 1852. An establishment similar to the above is the Surrey Industrial School for homeless and destitute boys not convicted of crime, situated at Bridge House, on the north side of the High Street. An iron railway, extending from the Thames at Wandsworth to Croydon, Avas constructed in pursuance of an Act of Parliament obtained in 1800, by which the subscribers were authorised to raise £30,000 for the purpose, in shares of £100 each. Its utility in conveying the manufactures of the intermediate places to the river was soon apparent, and under another Act the railway was continued to Merstham in 1805, Avith equally beneficial results. Wandsavorth Bridge, which spans the Thames, and connects the York Eoad with King's Eoad, Fulham, Avas built in 1873 from the designs of Mr. J. H. Tolme. It is made of iron, and consists of five spans, borne on massive coupled wrought-iron cylinders : the three central- stream spans are each 133 feet broad. The Surrey Lunatic Asylum. — This establishment occupies about 96 acres of land at the south-west corner of Wandsworth Common, purchased by the county magistrates in 1839. The architect was Mr. William Moseley. The buildings, in the latest style of Tudor architecture, and standing on a gently rising ground, were erected at a cost of about £63,000. They are constructed of red brick, with stone dressings and rusticated quoins, window frames, string-courses, &c. ; the brickwork itself is diversified by the insertion of various devices and interlacings in black brick. The entire pile is composed of three principal masses, variously subdivided, and consist ing of a centre with advanced wings, and having a western aspect. The middle portion of the central part, Avhich is 68 feet in width, and more lofty than its lateral adjuncts, pro jects about 46 feet : it has three breaks, or divisions, each being surmounted by a finialed r f 2 220 HISTORY OF SURREY. gable. On the first floor is the chapel, with an open timber roof, and a large window at each end, north and south. The advanced wings have, at each angle, a pavilion, carried up a story higher than the intervening parts, and ornamented with gables, &c. Almost every portion of the asylum is fire-proof; the wards and cells for the patients are completely so, there being no woodwork of any kind, except the doors, used in the construction. It will hold about 950 inmates. The northern side is allotted to the male, and the southern to the female patients. Every part is well ventilated, and on each side are three separate courts for air and exercise. The Eoyal Victoria Patriotic Asylum for girls and boys was founded and endowed by the Commissioners of the Eoyal Patriotic Fund, instituted in 1854 for the purpose of "giving assistance to the widows and orphans of those who fell during the Crimean and more recent wars, and to provide schools for their children." Her Majesty laid the first stone of the Asylum for Girls in 1857 : the Asylum for Boys is situated on East Hill. Mulberry Cottage, on Wandsworth Common, was once the residence of the well- known antiquary, Francis Grose, Esq. Clapham Junction Station, at the north-eastern extremity of the common, is one of the most important junctions in the vicinity of London. The number of trains which call at this station per day on the several lines is 863 ; those which pass through without stopping, 138 ; and it is calculated that on an average about 25,000 passengers enter or pass the junction every twenty-four hours.* WIMBLEDON. This parish is bounded on the north by Putney and Eoehampton, on the east by Wandsworth, on the south by Merton and Cheam, and on the west by Kingston. The soil varies much, consisting in some places of gravel, in others of clay, black sand, or loam, with a subsoil of clay or gravel ; in the meadows it is a black moorland earth. The ground is frequently marshy, springs occurring near the surface ; yet when an artesian well was dug at Wimbledon Park, the late seat of Earl Spencer, in 1798, the excavators, having shut out the land springs, penetrated to the depth of 563 feet before water was found, but it then rose in great abundance. | Wimbledon is thought to have derived its name from some Saxon proprietor named Wymbald, and dun, or dune, a hill in the Saxon language, possibly by adoption from the British: hence the appellations Wymbaldon * See " Old and New London," vol. vi. p. 483. t Manning, " Surrey," vol. hi. p. 272. Lysons states that on the common, near the village, " is a well, the water of which is never known to freeze in the most severe winter." — Environs, vol. i. p. 520. WIMBLEDON. 221 and Wymbeldorij by which this place is distinguished in old records. In the Eegisters of Archbishop Eeynolds (1313 — 1327), preserved at Lambeth, it is styled Wimbledon. At the time of the Doomsday survey Wimbledon was included in a very extensive manor of Mortlake belonging to the Archbishop of Canterbury, and in all the more ancient documents it is described as a grange, or farm, in that manor. In the Testa de Nevill it is stated that Eobert de Wymbeldon held one-third of a knight's fee in Wymbeldon, under the Archbishop of Canterbury, in the time of Henry III. or Edward I. On an inquisition taken in 1398, on an alleged forfeiture of Archbishop Arundel, attainted of treason against Eichard II., the manor of Wimbledon is mentioned as pertaining to that of Croydon, which also belonged to the see of Canterbury. In the following year Arundel returned from his exile in France with Henry of Boling broke (afterwards Henry IV.), and was restored to his see and its possessions, including the manor of Mortlake, or Wimbledon, as it has since continued to be denominated. His successors held it till exchanged by Archbishop Cranmer with Henry VIII. for other lands, and shortly after it was granted to Cromwell, Earl of Essex, on whose attainder in 1540 his estates escheated to the Crown. Wimbledon was next settled for life on Queen Catherine Parr, after whose decease in 1548 Queen Mary bestowed it on Cardinal Pole, who dying in 1558, the Crown resumed its possession. Queen Elizabeth gave this estate to Sir Christopher Hatton, who sold the manor-house to Sir Thomas Cecil, eldest son of Lord Burghley, and the manorial estate (though by what means it had again come into her hands does not appear) was conveyed to Sir Thomas by the Queen in exchange for the manors of Langton and Wiberton, in Lincolnshire. He rebuilt the manor-house in a most magnificent style about 1588, and having succeeded to his father's title in 1598, he entertained his royal mistress during three days of the following year at his new house in Wimbledon, after which she removed to Nonsuch.* In 1605 this nobleman was created Earl of Exeter, and at his death in 1622 he left this estate to his third son, Sir Edward Cecil, raised to the peerage by Charles I., by the titles of Baron of Putney and Viscount Wimbledon. He died at Wimbledon in 1638, and his daughters and coheiresses sold the manor to the Earl of Holland and others, who acted as trustees for the Queen Henrietta Maria. While it belonged to the Queen she and her royal consort sometimes resided at this place, and the mansion is mentioned among the possessions of the Crown in an inventory of the jewels and pictures of Charles I. referred to by Walpole. After the suppression of the monarchy, the Crown lands being set to sale by the Parliament, this t " Progresses," Queen Ehzabeth, vol. ii. In the churchwardens' accounts at Kingston is this entry, 1599 ; " Paid for mending the wayes when the Queen went from Wimbledon to Nonsuch, 20d." 222 HISTORY OF SURREY. estate, valued at £386 19s. 8d. a year, was purchased by Adam Baynes, of Knowstrop, in the county of York, at eighteen years' purchase. It was afterwards sold to tho Parliamentary general, John Lambert, who, as appears from the Court Eolls, was lord of the manor in 1656.* On the restoration of Charles II. the Queen-mother recovered her estates ; and in 1661 she sold Wimbledon to George Digby, Earl of Bristol, who, dying in 1676, devised it to his widow, from whom it was purchased by Thomas Osborne, Earl of Danby, the Lord Treasurer, afterwards Marquis of Carmarthen and Duke of Leeds. He died in 1712, and the trustees under his will, authorised by a decree of Chancery, sold the manor in 1717 to Sir Theodore Janssen, Bart., a director of the South Sea Company. Shortly afterwards he began to pull down the mansion of the Cecils, intending to replace it by a new one ; but, before that could be finished, his estates Avere seized and sold, with those of other directors, for the benefit of the many persons ruined by the nefarious speculations connected with the management of the above company. Wimbledon was then purchased for £15,000 by the celebrated Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, by whom, at her decease in 1744, it was devised, with Chilworth and other estates, to John Spencer, M.P. for Woodstock, youngest son of Charles, Earl of Sunderland, by her Grace's second daughter, Lady Anne Churchill. He died in 1746, when this property devolved on John, his only son, created Baron and Viscount Spencer in 1761, and Earl Spencer and Viscount Althorp in 1765 ; and from him it has descended to John Poyntz, fifth and present Earl Spencer. The mansion of the Cecils, in Wimbledon Park, was of a very sumptuous character, consisting of a centre, Avith spacious wings extending at right angles, and ha\Ting square pavilions at the inner corners surmounted by high turrets, each pyramidically roofed, and terminated "by two faier gilded wether-cocks, perspicuous to the countrie round about."! duller calls it "a daring structure," and remarks that "by some it has been thought to equal if not to exceed Nonsuch." An avenue of elms and other trees, 231 perches in length, led from Putney Heath, through the park, to the house. The latter stood upon the brow of the hill, and had two courts on the ascent in front, the uppermost rising about 12 or 14 feet above the other. * It is stated by Roger Coke, in his " Detection of the Court and State," that Lambert, after he had been " discarded by Cromwell, betook himself to Wimbledon-house, where he turned florist, and had the finest tuhps and gilhflowers that could begot for love or money ; yet in these outward pleasures he nourished the ambition which he entertained before he was cashiered by Cromwell." He also amused himself with painting flowers, in which art he attained considerable skill : according to AValpole, some specimens of his pictorial abUity were for many years preserved at Wimbledon. t In the tenth volume of the Archceologia is a minute account of the house and premises, copied from the original survey made by order of Parliament in 1649, and preserved in the Augmentation Office : there are also prints extant, though extremely scarce, both of the principal front and the garden front, which have been copied for Lysons's " Environs." WIMBLEDON. 223 In a survey made by order of Parliament in 1649 the house is described- to be of " excellent good brick," and "the angles, windoAV-staunchions, and jambs, are all of ashler stone." It comprised a basement and two upper stories, with numerous apartments singularly and curiously ornamented.* The surveyors valued the house at £150 per annum, and reported the materials to be worth £2,840 7s. lid. When the Duchess of Marlborough became its owner she pulled down the unfinished house which Sir Theodore Janssen had raised (and on which £4,000 had been expended), and built a new mansion upon the north side of the eminence on which the present house stands ; but not liking its aspect, she caused it to be taken down, and had another built in a far preferable situation on the south side.f That building was entirely destroyed by an accidental fire on Easter Monday, 1785, after which some of the offices were fitted up for the occasional residence of Earl Spencer's family. The present house, completed in 1801, from designs by Holland, has no particular characteristics requiring notice. Its situation is remarkably fine : on the south it commands extensive prospects over Surrey and Kent, and on the north the home scenery of the park, which was planted and laid out Avith much taste by " Capability " Browne, affords some beautiful views. This mansion, with its surrounding grounds, Avas long occupied by the Spencers, the Duke of Somerset, &c. In 1838 her Majesty Queen Victoria was entertained at Wimbledon Park House by the * Many of these apartments aTe particularly described in the survey, from which a few extracts are subjoined. On the ground floor was a room called the Stone Gallery : this was 108 feet long, and " pillared and arched with gray marble, waynscotted with oake, varnished with greene, and spotted with starrs of gold." In the midst was " a grotto wrought in the arch and sides thereof with sundry sorts of shells of great lustre and ornament, formed into the shapes of men, lyons, serpents, antick formes, and other rare devices ; '' also " fortie sights of seeing-glass sett together in one frame, much adorning and setting forth the splendour of the roome." Both the hall, in which was " a table of one intire piece of wood 21 feet long, and 6 inches thick, and a fayer and riche payer of organs," and the chapel were paved with black and white marble, and "painted with landskips." On the first floor were the King's Chamber and the Queen's Chamber ; and another stone gallery 62 feet long, having " many compendious sentences" upon the waUs. The Great GaUery on the second floor was 109 feet 8 inches long, and 21 feet broad : this was " floored with cedar-boards, casting a pleasant smell, — and in the middle thereof a very faire and large chimney-piece of black and white marble ingraved with coates of armes and adorned with several curious and well-guilded statues of alabaster." The Summer Chamber, 45 feet long and 20 feet broad, was also floored with cedar, and " seeled with fret-work, in the midst of which was a picture of good work manship representing a flying angel." At each end of the house was a staircase 20 feet square, the westernmost containing eighty-two steps. " These staires were adorned with one large picture of Henry IV., of France, in amies, on Horseback, set in a large frame, placed at the head thereof, and with landsMpps of battayles, anticks, heaven and hell, and other curious works ; and under the staires a little compleate room called the Den of Lyons, painted round with lyons and leopards." In the Orangerie were forty-two orange-trees in boxes valued at i>10 each ; a lemon-tree, " bearing greate and very large lemmons,'' valued at £20 ; a " pome-citron tree," valued at £10 ; six " pome-granet trees," at £3 each ; and " eighteen young orange trees," at £5 each. In the several gardens, which were laid out in knots, mazes, wilder nesses, &c, was a great variety of fruit trees, among which was every sort now cultivated, except the nectarine. t The designs for both houses were made by the Earl of Burlington, the most successful architectural amateur of his time. Views of the south and north fronts, and plans of the offices and principal floors, are given in the fifth volume of the " Vitruvius Britannicus," which states that the chief apartments, and particularly the saloon, were ornamented with some very capital pictures, " among which are the stories of ApoUo rewarding Merit, and ApoUo flaying Marsyas, both by Guido, and esteemed capital pieces of that master." 224 HISTORY OF SURREY. Duke and Duchess of Somerset. The manor has remained in the possession of Earl Spencer's family down to the present time; but in 1846 the mansion and surrounding park and estates were sold to John A. Beaumont, Esq., who had a few years previously purchased a considerable portion of the estate on the side nearest Putney. The whole of the estate has since been sold to a company for building purposes. In its entire state it comprised about 1,200 acres, of considerable diversity of surface, with a fine expanse of water covering 50 acres. The manor-house is still standing, and has been considerably improved and beautified since it was purchased by Mr. Beaumont. Advowson, &c. — Henry VIII., after the exchange with Archbishop Cranmer men tioned before, granted the advowson, right of patronage, &c, of the church and parsonage of Wymbylton, and its annexed chapels in Surrey, to the Dean and Chapter of Worcester, to hold in frank-almoign, but reserving a rent of £3 10s. 9^d. to the office of first-fruits and tenths ; and Edward VL, soon after his accession, confirmed this grant to the Dean and Chapter, with license to appropriate. Since then the patronage has been usually granted on leases of three lives to the lords of the manor, the lessees covenanting, among other charges, to keep the chancels of Wimbledon, Putney, and Mortlake, and the parsonage- house at Wimbledon, in repair.* This living is in the diocese of Eochester, rural deanery of Barnes, and archdeaconry of Southwark, and is valued at 60 marks in the Valor of 20 Edward I. In the King's books its value is stated at £35 2s. lid., paying 6s. 8d. for procurations and synodals. In the Eegister of burials, which commences in 1593, is the following entry : — Francis Trevor, aged 103, was buried February 8, I778.t Vicars of Wimbledon in and since 1800 : — 1. — Herbert Randolph, B.D. Instituted in 1777. 2. — Henry Lindsay, M.A. Instituted in 1819. 3. — Richard Zeonard Adams, M.A. Instituted in 1846. 4. — Henry William Haygarth, M.A. Instituted in 1859. Adjoining the main entrance to Wimbledon Park House, about a quarter of a mile from the village, is the parish church, dedicated to St. Mary, and which had its origin in the Saxon times ; but of the church mentioned in the Doomsday Book not a vestige remains. * Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. hi. p. 272. t Among the entries is recorded the birth, on Saturday, the 13th day of July, 1616, " about half an hour before 10 of the clocke," a.m., of the Lady Georgi-Anna, daughter of Thomas, Earl of Exeter, and the Lady Frances, his countess. She was baptized on the 30th of the same month, " Queen Anne [of Denmark], and the Earl of AVorcester, Lord Privy Seal, being witnesses." WIMBLEDON. 225 Except the chancel, supposed to be a work of the fourteenth century, the present structure was entirely rebuilt in 1833 and 1834, from the designs of Messrs. Scott and Moffatt. Its cost was about £6,000, which was defrayed partly by subscription and partly by loan, and the church was reopened for divine worship in 1834. It is a handsome composition in the perpendicular style of pointed architecture, consisting of nave and aisles, with a well-proportioned square tower of four stories at the west end, surmounted by a lofty spire and weather-cock. The walls and buttresses are faced with flint within stone dress ings, but the window and door frames, &c, are all of the latter material. The chief entrance is from the tower, above which is an elegant window ; and there are five similar windows on either side of the church, of three principal divisions each, cinquefoil-headed, with smaller lights above. The nave is separated from the aisles by light piers, from which spring five pointed arches on each side. The framework of the roof is of oak : the rafters are supported by brackets resting upon corbels. Spacious galleries extend over the aisles and west end of the nave, and above the western gallery is an organ loft or singing gallery, containing a fine-toned organ by Walker, presented to the church by James Courthorpe Peach, Esq., of Belvidere House, an adjacent seat. Above the arch separating the nave from the chancel are the arms of Queen Victoria in artificial stone, the gift of Mrs. Marryat, of Wimbledon House. The font, of stone, and octagonal in form, was given by H. Bowden, Esq. In 1860 the chancel was restored by the Eccle siastical Commissioners. In the east window are various shields of arms in stained glass, exhibiting the bearings of Sir Thomas Cecil, afterwards Earl of Exeter ; of Thomas, first Duke of Leeds ; and of the Spencer family. Lysons has delineated the figure of an ancient crusader, which was in a window on the north side, completely armed, with a spear in his right hand, and a shield with the cross of St. George upon his left arm. On the south of the chancel is a small chapel erected by Edward, Viscount Wimble don, in the reign of James I., as a burial-place for himself and family. In the middle space is an altar tomb, with an inscription on the verge, and others on each side, recording the descent and various offices of the deceased, both civil and military. His armour is arranged in detached portions round the chapel, and over his tomb is a viscount's coronet suspended by a chain. He died at Wimbledon in 1638. Under the south gallery is a monument by Westmacott, erected at the expense of the Fox Club, in memory of Mr. James Perry, and as a testimony of his zeal, courage, and ability in defence of public liberty. He was for many years both proprietor and editor of the Morning Chronicle, and is represented by a small whole-length figure in white marble, VOL. III. G G 226 HISTORY OF SURREY. seated at a table with papers before him. He was born in 1756, and died in 1821, having long been resident in this parish. Over the north gallery are tablets in commemoration of the late Judge, Sir James Allan Park, and of Sir William Beaumaris Bush. In the churchyard are numerous tombs and other sepulchral memorials of a superior kind to those generally raised. One of the most remarkable is a columbarium erected by Benjamin Bond Hopkins, Esq., formerly of Wimbledon House and Pains Hill, in which he himself lies interred with others of his family. He died in 1794. Another mausoleum, like a pyramid, encloses the remains of Gerard de Visme, Esq., who died in 1797. In front is a sculpture of his arms and the sentence, " Sepulchrvm hoc Gerardvs de Visme pro Se et Svis Extrvxit." The memory of Margaret, Countess of Lucan, who died in 1814, relict of the first Earl of Lucan, is preserved by an Ionic column surmounted by an urn, and that of the Lady George Quin by a handsome Grecian monu ment : she died in 1823. Among the other tombs is that covering the vault of John Hopkins, Esq., of London, who died in 1732. This was the person whom Pope, in his "Moral Essays," has consigned to an unenviable fame by the epithet "Vulture" Hopkins, from his grasping practices in the acquirement of wealth. Christ Church was erected in 1859, and Holy Trinity Church in 1862. At Eidgeway is a proprietary chapel dedicated to Emmanuel, and on Spencer Hill there is a temporary church holding about 450 worshippers. There are also several places of worship for Dissenters. There are in the parish eight almshouses, and the charities for distribution amount to about £100 annually. On Copse Hill is the Atkinson Morley Convalescent Hospital. It was erected in 1867, and is endowed from property left by the late Mr. Atkinson Morley for the purpose of receiving and maintaining the convalescent poor patients from St. George's Hospital, the corporation of which institution has the sole management and control of this Hospital, On the high ground at the south-west of Wimbledon Common, and about a mile and a half from Kingston Hill, is an ancient entrenchment which the country-people call the Bounds, an appellation by Avhich it has been known for a long series of years,* though of late it has been introduced into some of our maps by the name of Caesar's Camp. In Camden's time it was called Bensbury, which that writer supposed to be derived from Cnebbd's-bury, Cnebba and Oslac, two of the principal generals of Ethelbert, King of Kent, having been slain in the battle fought at Wibandune (or Wimbledon) between that sovereign and Ceaulin, King of the West Saxons. Its area comprises about * Vide Salmon's " Antiquities of Surrey," p. 31, under Wimbledon. WIMBLEDON. 227 7 acres of ground, , and is to a considerable extent overgrown by prickly furze. It is crossed by a cart road leading towards Combe Lane and Kingston, and on one side appears to have been defended by outworks. It is not exactly circular, but inclines to an oval form. The surrounding ditch, which is from 8 or 10 to about 15 feet deep, is partially overshadowed by scrubby oaks. The origin of this encampment has been attributed to the Britons, the Eomans, the Saxons, and the Danes : probably it was originally a British stronghold, subsequently occupied by soldiers of the other nations in succession. Several antiquities, apparently Eoman, have been found in this vicinity. Dr. Boots, of Surbiton, was strongly of opinion that Csesar crossed the Thames at Kingston, anciently Moreford, or the Great Ford — at least with bis infantry, and that he occupied this entrenchment whilst preparing for the conflict. He imagined the fierce struggle with the troops of Cassivelaunus to have taken place on the Middlesex banks of the river immediately above Kingston, where many relics of a warlike description have been found by the ballast-heavers, similar to those discovered in this neighbourhood. There is an ancient track called the Eidgeway, extending from Wimbledon in a south-west direction along an elevated brow, and leading through a wood into Combe Lane. Wimbledon House. — In the last century this estate belonged to Benjamin Bond Hopkins, the inheritor of the riches of his maternal relative, John Hopkins, whose burial-place has recently been noticed. Whilst in his possession the grounds were laid out and a cascade and grotto constructed under the direction of the celebrated Bushell, by whom the more elaborate grottoes on Bains Hill and Oatlands were designed. Sub sequently, and on his own removal to Bains Hill, Mr. Bond sold the estate to Mons. de Calonne, Comptroller General of the French Finances before the Eevolution in 1789 ; and that gentleman, about 1791, resold this property to Earl Gower for £15,000. The Prince de Conde was afterwards an occupant of it ; but eventually this estate was purchased by Joseph Marryat, Esq., M.P., a West India merchant, who died suddenly in 1824. The late celebrated novelist, Capt. Marryat, was Mr. Marryat's son. Wimbledon House is now the seat of Sir Henry W. Peek, Bart., M.B. Douglas, in his " Nsenia Britannica," speaks of a group of ancient barrows formerly to be seen on Wimbledon Common. They were " about twenty-three in number, situated on the left side of the high-road from London to Kingston, at a small distance from Mr. Hartley's Fire-house, but on the other side of the road." Most of the largest (none of which exceeded 28 feet in diameter) were said to have been opened by a person from London, supposed to have been Dr. Stukeley, about twenty-eight years before Mr. Douglas G G 2 22g HISTORY OF SURREY. opened the remainder, which appears to have been in 1786. His researches were little successful, the only relic which he found being "a small vessel of dark-brown greyish earth, 3 inches in height, and 3 inches in diameter." He also mentions " a very large barrow of the more ancient class," as remaining at about 5 furlongs from the group* All of them were afterwards remorselessly swept away to mend the roads. In May, 1789, a hostile meeting took place on Wimbledon Common between his Eoyal Highness the Duke of York and Lieut.-Col. Lennox. The Duke received the colonel's fire, which grazed his hair ; but, as he declined to fire in return, the proceedings terminated. In May, 1807, a duel was fought here by Sir Francis Burdett and John Paull, Esq., in which both parties were wounded, though not dangerously. In September, 1810, Mr. George Payne, a person of considerable fortune, was mortally wounded on the common in a duel with Mr. Clark, with whose sister he had formed an improper attach ment. He died at the Bed Lion, Putney, two days afterwards. In June, 1839, the Marquis of Londonderry and Mr. Henry Grattan, M.P., had a meeting here, when the latter, after receiving his opponent's fire, fired into the air, and the duel ended. Another duel- was fought near the mill on the 21st of September, 1840, between the Earl of Cardigan and Capt. Harvey Garnett Phipps Tuckett, in which the latter was grievously wounded by a shot beneath the ribs. The Earl was tried by the House of Peers for this offence in February, 1841 ; but, from a deficiency of proof as to the identity of the person Avounded Avith the Captain Tuckett named in the indictment (though it was impossible conscientiously to doubt it), the Earl was pronounced "not guilty." This was almost the last duel fought in England. Every summer, in July, Wimbledon Common is the scene ofthe annual meeting of the National Eifle Association. The old windmill has been converted into its head-quarters, and the greatest interest is yearly evinced by thousands of all classes in the various shooting matches for such prizes as the Elcho Shield, the Queen's Prize, or the Shield shot for by our great public schools, together with the spirited rifle match between members of the Houses of Lords and Commons. * Douglas, " Nsenia Britannica," p. 93, plate 23. HUNDRED OF WALLINGTON, OR CROYDON. PAEISHES IN THB FIKST DIVISION : CEOYDON.— ADDINGTON.— CHALDON.— COULSDON.— SANDEESTEAD.— WOODMANSTEENE. SECOND DIVISION : BEDDINGTON, WITH WALLINGTON HAMLET.— CAESHALTON.— CHEAM.— MITCHAM.— MOEDON.— SUTTON. ""^jALLINGTON hundred, sometimes called the hundred of Croydon, from its principal town, is styled in the Doomsday Book Waleton, and now Wallington, from a place in the parish of Beddington supposed to have been a Eoman settlement. This division of the county is bounded on the north by the hundred of Brixton, on the east by the county of Kent, on the south by the hundreds of Tandridge and Eeigate, and on the west by Copthorne and Kingston. In 20 Eichard II. the Prior of Bermondsey obtained a grant, under letters-patent, of the right of return and execution of the King's writs in this hundred, as well as in that of Brixton, and the privilege was confirmed in 23 Henry VI. When a Commission of Array was issued in 36 Henry VIII. "for the preparacion and furnyshyng of 400 able men, with their Capitaynes," in the county of Surrey, for the King's service in the wars with France and Scotland, the quota required from the hundred of Wallington consisted of four archers and twenty billmen. CROYDON. This parish is bounded on the north by Lambeth and Streatham ; on the east by Penge, the parishes of Beckenham and West Wickham in Kent, and that of Addington in Surrey ; on the south by Addington, Sanderstead, and Coulsdon ; and on the west by 23o HISTORY OF SURREY. Beddington and Mitcham. It is no less than thiriy-six miles in circumference ; and the soil varies greatly in different parts of it, consisting of chalk, gravel, sand, clay, and peat. Lysons mentions a large chalk-pit, about a mile from the town, near the road to Addington, which afforded a great variety of extraneous fossils. The river Wandle rises in the lower part of the town, near the church. Croydon is a place of great antiquity.* That part now called High Street was formerly only a bridle road through fields. The old or lower town, called Old Croydon, was situated farther from London towards Beddington, and there were ruins of it remaining in 1783. Gale, in his Commentary on the " Itinerary " of Antoninus, says that a Eoman road passed through Old Croydon from Woodcote to Streatham ; and the first-mentioned place has been supposed by some antiquaries to be the site of the station called Noviomagus. Both Camden and Gale notice a tradition that there was anciently a royal palace westward of the town, next Haling, f * Respecting the etymology of its name we have no positive information. Its ancient orthography is various. Camden, from the Saxon, writes Cradidon ; others have it Croindene, Grondon, Croiden, &c. Within our own recollec tion, though written Croydon, it was usually, especially by the common people, pronounced Craydon. As there is no chalk in Surrey before we reach Croydon from the metropohs, the name is thought by some to be derived from the old Norman or French word craye, or craie, chalk, and the Anglo-Saxon dun, a hill, indicating a town near the chalk hill. Others, though less satisfactorily, derive the name from crone, sheep, and dene, a valley. t In the reign of Queen Elizabeth " the streets were deep hollow ways, and very dirty ; the houses generaUy with wooden steps into them,— and the inhabitants in general were smiths and colhers ; " that is, charcoal-burners, a calling for which they have been celebrated by several of our early poets. In the ancient tragedy of Locrine occurs the well-known distich — " The Colliers of Croydon, The Rustics of Roydon ; " and there is a comedy, written in 1662, entitled Grim, the Collier of Croydon, or the Devil and his Dame, &c. Those who are here called colhers would in our time be called charcoal-burners, for that was evidently their trade, as may be evinced by the following extracts from a very scarce satirical and descriptive poem written by P. Hannay, gent., and published about the time of the restoration of Charles II. : — " In midst of these stands Croydon, cloth'd in blacke, In a low bottome sink of all these hills ; And is receipt of ah the durtie wracke, AVhich from their tops still in abundance trills ; The unpav'd lanes with muddie mire it fills : If one shower falls, or if that blessing stay, You well may scent, but never see your way. And those that there inhabit, suiting well With such a place, doe either Nigros seeme, Or harbingers for Pluto, prince of Hell ; Or his fire-beaters one might rightly deeme : Their sight would make a soul of hell to dreanie ; Besmear'd with sut, and breathing pitchie smoake, Which, save themselves, a hving wight would choke. [These, CROYDON. 231 Croydon is seldom mentioned in history, and the events relating to it are of little importance. In 1264 a body of troops who had fought under the Earl of Leicester, consisting of Londoners, on returning home after the battle of Lewes, having taken up their quarters at Croydon, were attacked by the disbanded Eoyalists who had formed the garrison of Tunbridge Castle, when many of them were killed, and the assailants obtained a great booty.* In 1286 "William Warren, son and heir of John Warren, Earle of Surrey, in a lurneament at Croyden, was by the challenger intercepted, and cruelly slaine." j" In 1550 Grig, a poulterer of Surrey, regarded among the people as a prophet, in curing divers diseases by words and prayers, and saying he would take no money, was, by commandment of the Earl of Warwick and others of the King's Council, set on a scaffold in the town of Croydon, with a paper on his breast, Avherein Avere written his deceitful and hypocritical dealings. He was afterwards put in the pillory at Southwark during the Lady Day fair.J Stow says that in 1551 an earthquake was felt at Croydon and several neighbouring places. Fuller, in his " Church History of Britain," after mentioning the Black Assizes at Oxford in 1577, adds, "The like chanced some four years since (1652 ?) at Croydon in Surrey, where a great depopulation happened at the assizes of persons of quality, and the two judges, Baron Yates, and Baron Eigby, died a few days after." Mr. Lysons remarks that it does not appear by the Eegister that there was any great mortality at Croydon about that time.§ The plague visited this town in 1603, and in that year and the next 158 persons died of it : the disease proved fatal to many people here also in 1625, 1626, 1631, 1665, and 1666. In 1728 so violent a storm of hail and rain, with thunder and lightning, fell at Croydon as to strike the hailstones, which were from 8 to 10 inches round, some inches into the earth. The cattle were forced into the ditches and drowned, windows were shattered, and great damage done. Considerable damage in and near Croydon was also done by a storm of thunder and lightning in 1744.|| These, with the Demi-gods still disagreeing, (As vice with virtue ever is at Jarre,) With all who in the pleasant woods have being, Doe undertake an everlasting warre, Cut down their groves, and often doe them skarre ; And in a close pent fire their arbours burne While — as the Muses can do nought but mourne.'' * Matt. Paris, " Hist. Angl." Contin. p. 964. t Stow, Chron. p. 311. X Stow, p. 1020. § "Environs," p. 172. || Steinman, "Croydon," pp. 28, 29. 232 HISTORY OF SURREY. This parish contains the hamlets of Addiscombe, Croham, Coombe, Haling, Shirley, Woodside, Waddon, Thornton Heath, and Broad Green ; the manors of Waddon, Bencham (or Whitehorse), Norbury, Haling, and Croham, and a part of that of Norwood. Within the parish and manor of Croydon are seven boroughs, namely, Coombe, Selsdon, Bencham or Bunchesham, Addiscombe, Woodside, Shirley, and Croham. It lies within the district of the Metropolitan Police, and is the head of a Union and County Court district. Manor of Croydon.— The manor of Croydon is thus described in the Doomsday Book among the lands of the Archbishop of Canterbury : — " In the hundred of Waleton (Wallington) Archbishop Lanfranc holds Croindene in demesne. In the time of King Edward, it was assessed at 80 hides : now at 16 hides, and 1 virgate. The arable land amounts to 20 carucates. There are in the demesne 4 carucates ; and forty-eight villains, and twenty-five bordars, with 34 carucates. There is a church ; and one mill, at 5s. ; and 8 acres of meadow. The wood yields two hundred swine. Of the land belonging to this manor, Eestold holds of the Archbishop 7 hides ; and Ealph 1 hide ; and thence they have £7 8s. rent. The whole manor, in the time of King Edward, was valued at £12 : now at £27 to the Archbishop ; and £10 10s. to his men." This manor is said to have been given by William I. to Archbishop Lanfranc, who is supposed to have founded the archiepiscopal palace, though Eobert Kilwardby is the first prelate who is certainly known to have resided at Croydon. He resigned the metropolitan dignity on being made a Cardinal in 1278, and went to Eome, leaving the castles and mansions belonging to the see in such a dilapidated state that Archbishop Beckham, his successor, found it necessary to expend 3,000 marks in repairs, though it is uncertain what part of this sum may have been laid out at Croydon. The manor continued to belong to the see of Canterbury until the troubles of the seventeenth century, when the revenues of the archbishopric were seized by the Barliament. The annual value of the manor, palace, and land was then estimated at £275, exclusive of the timber. Archiepiscopal Palace. — There is no evidence that any Archbishop of Canterbury resided at Croydon before Kilwardby above mentioned ; but it may be concluded that he had a palace or mansion here, as he dates hence, in 1273, a mandate for holding a Convocation at the New Temple in London.* Several succeeding prelates, in the same and the following century, were occasionally resident here; among them Archbishop Courtenay, who received the pall in the principal chamber, of great hall, of his manor of Croydon, in 1382.| Thomas Arundel, the next archbishop, probably built the guard- chamber, as his arms were displayed in the interior. Cardinal Stafford, who obtained * Wilkins, " Concilia," vol. ii. p. 26. t Regist. Courtnei. f. 9, a. CROYDON. 2 33 the see in 1443, resided during his primacy chiefly at Croydon and Lambeth : he either built or repaired the great hall. Archbishop Cranmer also appears to have repaired the palace. In his time Croydon became the scene of the judicial examination of John Frith,* accused of heresy before Cromwell, Cranmer, and others, for maintaining certain doctrines, which the Archbishop himself secretly, and afterwards openly, professed. Frith, refusing to recant, was burnt in Smithfield in 1534. Archbishop Parker entertained Queen Elizabeth at his palace of Croydon for seven days in 1573, and there is reason to believe that she visited the palace again in the ensuing year. Miss Agnes Strickland writes, in her " Lives of the Queens of England," " The learned primate, his comptroller, secretaries, and chamberers, were at their wits' ends, where and how to find sleeping accommodation for her majesty, and her numerous train of ladies and officers of state, on this occasion. There is a pitiful note, signed J. Bowyer, appended to the list of these illustrious guests, for whom suitable dormitories could not be assigned, in which he says, 'For the queen's waiters, I cannot find any convenient rooms to place them in, but I will do the best I can to place them elsewhere ; but if it will please you, sir, that I do remove them, the grooms of the privy chamber, nor Mr. Drury, have no other way to their chambers but to pass through that where my lady Oxford should come. I cannot then tell where to place Mr. Hatton ; and for my lady Carewe, there is no place with a chimney for her, but that she must lay abroad by Mrs. A. Parry and the rest of the privy chamber. For Mrs. Shelton, there are no rooms with a chimney ; I shall stay one chamber without for her. Here is as much as I am able to do in this house. From Croydon.' "f In 1587 Sir Christopher Hatton was appointed Lord Chancellor, on the recommenda tion of Whitgift, and the great seal was delivered to him in the gallery of the palace at Croydon. During the interregnum the palace and lands were let for £40 a year to Charles, Earl of Nottingham, who held on lease the manor of Haling also, after which, in 1646, * See Fox's " Acts and Monuments," vol. hi. p. 192 ; Stow, Chronicle, p. 962. This was by no means the only occasion on which Cranmer acted as the subservient instrument of a lawless tyrant. Bishop Burnet, one of the chief Protestant writers who have laboured to place his character in a favourable point of view, has erroneously stated that he retired to Croydon when the Bill of Attainder against the Duke of Norfolk passed in Parliament ; and Hume, heedlessly following Burnet, says, " Cranmer, though engaged for many years in an opposite party to Norfolk, and though he had received many and great injuries from him, would have no hand in so unjust a prosecution ; and he retired to his seat in Croydon." But a recent historian more correctly asserts that Cranmer, after being present in the House of Lords on the three several days on which the iniquitous Bill against the Duke was read [as weh as on the day it received the royal assent by commission, viz. January 27th, 38 Henry VIII.], had retreated for quiet to Croydon, where he was when he received a summons to attend his royal master in his last agonies. (See Lingard's " England," vol. iv. p. 354 ; and " Pictorial History of England," vol. ii. p. 451.) + Sloane MS. 1—4, 160, n. 217. VOL. III. H H 234 HISTORY OF SURREY. the commissioners of the Parliament granted the estate to Sir Wm. Brereton, Bart., who had been a general officer during the civil war, and was one of the Council of State appointed under the Brotectorate in 1652.* After the Eestoration Archbishop Juxon repaired and restored the palace, and several of his successors expended considerable sums on the building, especially Dr. Herring, by whom it was vastly improved and adorned. This prelate was the last who resided at Croydon ; and the palace being deserted and becoming dilapidated, in 1780 an Act of Parliament was obtained, by which the premises were vested in trustees for sale. In the preamble it is alleged that the palace was in a low, unwholesome situation, and so incommodious as to be unfit for the residence of the archbishops, and that certain funds existed which might be appropriated to the erection or purchase of a more suitable mansion. The fee-simple of the estate was consequently sold by auction, in 1780, to Mr. (afterwards Sir ) Abraham Pitches for £2,520, and the mansion and estate of Addington Park were bought in lieu of it. The palace was then turned into an establishment for printing linens ; the garden was made a bleaching ground ; and the demesne having been subsequently resold in lots, the buildings were converted into separate dwellings.-]" Croydon Park, or Park Hill. — This estate was held by the Archbishops of Canterbury till the time of Henry VIII., when Cranmer surrendered it to the King in exchange for other lands ; but it was restored to him by a grant of Edward VI. The office of Keeper of Croydon Park was granted, for life or terms of years, to various individuals at different periods : among them was William Walworth, Mayor of London, whose spirited conduct helped to put down tho rebellion under Wat Tyler, in the reign of Eichard II. Walworth was appointed to the keepership by Archbishop Courtenay in 1382. The estate has been long divided and built over.J Manor oe Waddon. — This manor, anciently styled Woddens, is situated on the road to Beddington, about half a mile from the town of Croydon. It formerly belonged to the Crown, and in 1127 it Avas given by Henry I. to the monastery of Bermondsey. In 1391 Archbishop Courtenay obtained this estate in exchange for the appropriation of the church of Croydon, and it has ever since (except during the interregnum) pertained to the metropolitan see. In the time of Archbishop Parker it was valued at £22 6s. 8d. * This gentleman was rewarded by the Parhament for his services with the sequestration of Cashiobury and other lands of Lord Capel, the .chief forestership of Macclesfield, and the stewardship of that hundred, besides the sequestrations ofthe lands and tenements pertaining to the see of Canterbury at Croydon. He died in 1661. His having turned the chapel at Croydon into k kitchen while he held the palace induced a contemporary pamphleteer to remark that he was " a notable man at a thanksgiving dinner, having terrible long teeth, and a prodigious stomach, to turn the archbishop's chapel into a kitchen, and to swallow up that palace and lands at a morsel." — Lysons, Environs, vol. i. p. 175. t Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 537. X Garrow, " History of Croydon," p. 33. CROYDON. ^35 Manor oe Btjnchesham, or Bensham. — This manor lies north of the town, towards Norwood.* Peter Chaceport had a grant of free-warren here in 37 Henry III. ; and in 1299, 27 Edward I., a similar grant was obtained by Eichard de Gravesend, Bishop of London. In 1338 Stephen de Gravesend, also Bishop of London, died seized of this manor, which he had held of the Archbishop of Canterbury, as of his manor of Croydon, for his life, at a rent of 21s. a year, and suit of court. It then comprised a messuage, 200 acres of arable land, 8 acres of meadow, and 20 acres of pasture, with underwood, besides rents of assize and pleas and perquisites of courts. After repeated transfers to different persons, the manor, in 41 Edward III., was held by Walter Whitehorse, the King's shield-bearer: from him, apparently, it has since been called the Manor of Whitehorse. At length this estate became the property of Sir Eobert Morton, nephew of Cardinal Morton, Archbishop of Canterbury, who died seized of it in 6 Henry VIII. William Morton, Esq., a relative of this gentleman, held it in 1566 ; and Thomas Morton, the grandson of William, died in 1678, leaving five daughters his coheiresses. The shares of four of these ladies were purchased by John Barrett, Esq., in 1712 ; and his grandson, to whom the property descended, bought the fifth share in 1787, shortly after which he disposed of the whole to John Cator, Esq., of Beckenham, in Kent. It belonged, in 1809, to John Cator, Esq., nephew of the preceding, who sold it to John Davidson Smith, Esq. Manor of Croham. — This manor, likewise named Cronham and Cranham, consists of a messuage and farm, comprising about 400 acres of arable and wood land, and it extends over Cromehurst for about a mile from the town towards the south-east. It forms part of the endowment of the hospital founded at Croydon by Archbishop Whitgift. In 1368 it was alienated by a person named Chireton to Walter Whitehorse, above mentioned, but it appears to have reverted to the family of Chireton. It belonged to the Crown in the beginning of the reign of Henry IV., who gave the custody of the manor to Wm. Oliver. Dame Anne Peche held it in the time of Henry VII., and under his successor it belonged to Sir John Danet, in right of his wife, daughter of Thomas Elynbrigge, Esq. The manorial estate was afterwards held by Sir Olive Leigh, of Addington, by whom it was sold to Archbishop Whitgift. Manor oe Haling. — Haling House is situated at the southern extremity of the town, in the midst of a pleasant park, the plantations in which formed the subject of a poetical * The hamlet of Norwood, one of the most delightful villages in the vicinity of the metropolis,' hes partly in the parish of Croydon, and partly in Lambeth, Streatham, and Camberwell. It has already been described in our account of the hundred of Brixton (see ante, p. 115). In a survey dated 1646 it is mentioned as containing " 830 acres, in which the inhabitants of Croydon have herbage for all manner of cattle, and mastage for swine without stint." H H 2 236 HISTORY OF SURREY. " Epistle from a Grove in Derbyshire to a Grove in Surrey," with the answer by William Whitehead, formerly Poet-laureate.* In the reign of Edward IV. this manor belonged to Thomas Warham, who held it of the Archbishop of Canterbury at the rent of 21s. 0-|d. He died about 1478, and the lease is supposed to have passed to William Warham, Archdeacon of Canterbury, and nephew of the primate of that name, from whom Henry VIII. obtained the estate by exchange. Queen Mary granted the manor to Sir John Gage, K.G., who died seized of it in 1557, leaving four sons, of whom Eobert, the third, held Haling. He died in 1587, and was succeeded in this property by his son, John Gage, father of Sir Henry Gage, Knt., Colonel in the army and Governor of Oxford, in the service of Charles I., and who lost his life in a skirmish at Culham, near Abingdon, in 1644. Eobert Gage, uncle of Sir Henry, was executed as an accomplice in the conspiracy of Babington and others against Queen Elizabeth in 1586 ; and his brother, John Gage of Haling, incurred imprisonment and forfeiture for harbouring G. Beesley, a " missionary priest." The manor of Haling, thus becoming vested in the Crown, was granted on lease, under letters-patent of 34 Elizabeth, to Charles Howard, Earl of Nottingham, who died here in 1624. Notwithstanding the proceedings against Mr. Gage, and the consequent forfeiture of his estates, they were probably restored ; for his son, Sir Henry, having demised the reversion of Haling House to his father, the latter, in 2 Charles I., alienated it to Christopher Gardiner, Esq., to whose family it belonged until 1707, when it was conveyed to Edward Stringer, Esq. That gentleman left it to his widow, and from her it descended to her grandson (by a second husband), William Parker Hamond, Esq., whose son and heir of the same name held the estate in 1860. It was for some time in the occupation of James Penleaze, Esq., and now in that of Mr. James Watney. Manor of Norbury. — This manor, also called Northbormgh, is situated on the western side of the road to London, extending over a part of Thornton Heath. Nicholas Carew, of Beddington, Keeper of the Privy Seal, in 48 Edward III. obtained a grant of free- warren * The following hnes may serve as a specimen of the versification : — " I envy not, I swear and vow, The temples or the shades of Stow ; Nor Java's groves, whose arms display Their blossoms to the rising day ; Nor Chili's woods, whose fruitage gleams, Ruddy beneath his setting beams ; Nor Teneriffa's forests shaggy, Nor China's varying Sharawaggi : Nor all that has been sung or said Of Pindus, or of Windsor's shade." CROYDON. 237 for all his lands in Croydon, and died in 1391, seized, inter alia, ofthe manor of Norbury. It remained in the possession of the Carews until the attainder and execution of Sir Nicholas Carew in 1539,* and Henry VIII. annexed it to the honour of Hampton Court. Edward VI. , in 1547, granted this manor, together with Pyrle Mead in Croydon, to the Archbishop of Canterbury, in exchange for other landed property ; but Queen Mary restored to Sir Francis Carew the forfeited estates of his father. From this gentleman Norbury, with Beddington, &o, descended to Admiral Sir Benjamin Hallowell Carew, G.C.B., whose son, Capt. Charles H. Carew, E.N., possessed it until he sold his paternal property, f Norbury House is now the residence of William Goldsmith, Esq. The manors, or reputed manors, of Ham, Balmers, and Selhurst are now incorporated with the principal manor of Croydon, belonging to the Archbishop of Canterbury. The manor or estate called Ham, situated on the eastern side of the parish towards Beckenham, was granted by Queen Mary to Anthony Browne, Viscount Montague, and in 1809 it belonged to Lord Gwydyr, who inherited it from his grandfather, Peter Burrell, Esq., of Beckenham.J Addiscombe. — This place, formerly called Adgcomb and Adscomb, is about one mile and a half from the town of Croydon on the road to Wickham. In the reign of Henry VIII. this estate belonged to Thomas Heron, who died in 1518, leaving two sons, who held it in succession. Sir Nicholas Heron, the younger, died in 1568, and was interred in Heron's Chapel in the parish church. Addiscombe afterwards became the residence of Sir John Tunstal, Gentleman Usher to Anne of Denmark, consort of James I. ; and his eldest son, Henry, who dwelt here, was in 1647 appointed one of the Committee of Inquiry concerning the conduct of the clergy in Surrey. Sir Burbeck Temple, Knt., a member of the Privy Council of Charles II., held this estate ; and, as he died without issue in 1695, it came into the possession of his widow, who died in 1700, having left Addis combe to her nephew, Wilham Draper, son-in-law of the celebrated John Evelyn.§ Mr. Draper rebuilt the mansion in 1702, the masonry consisting of brickwork cased with Portland stone. Sir John Vanbrugh is said to have been the architect, and the walls and ceilings of the staircase and saloon were ornamented by the pencil of Sir James Thornhill. In the course of the eighteenth century Addiscombe House was successively occupied by the Lord Chancellor Talbot, who died here in 1737 ; by Lord Grantham, who died in 1786 ; and by Charles Jenkinson, first Earl of Liverpool, who had a lease of the estate for life, and died in 1808. * See Account of Beddington. t Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 541 ; Steinman, pp. 36 — 38. X Manning, u. s. p. 544. § See Evelyn's " Diary," and Steinman's " Croydon," pp. 50, 51. 8 HISTORY OF SURREY. The Addiscombe estate had previously become the property of Charles Clarke, Esq.,. through an heiress of the Draper family ; and his grandson, Charles John Clarke, lost his life in consequence of the fall of a scaffold at Paris, whither he had gone after the peace of Amiens. He was married, but, as he left no issue, his estates devolved on his sister, Anne Millicent Clarke, wife of Emilius Henry Delme, Avho assumed the name of Eadcliffe. This gentleman was Master of the Stud to George IV. and his successor. In 1809 Mr. Eadcliffe sold Addiscombe to the East India Company, who founded there a Military College for the education of cadets for the Engineers and Artillery, and in 1825 the plan of the institution was extended so as to furnish instruction for candidates for the infantry service in general. After the transfer of the government of India to the Crown, by the old East India Company, in 1858, Addiscombe College was broken up, and its site has been utilised for building purposes. Amongst the chief seats in the environs of Croydon may be mentioned the following : — Coombe House, a mansion formerly occupied by Beeston Long, Esq., brother of Lord. Farnborough : afterwards it was sold to Mr. Enderby, and at his decease to James William Sutherland, Esq., whose widow still owns it. Shirley House, about a mile and a half to the eastward of Croydon, was built by John Claxton, Esq., in 1720, on an elevated site. It has a fine lawn, and a piece of water in front. Many years ago it came into the possession of John Maberley, Esq., and by the assignees of that gentleman it was afterwards sold to S. Skinner, Esq. Mr. Skinner disposed of the estate to the Earl of Eldon, whose son, the present earl, still owns the property. The Eectory of Croydon. — This rectory belonged to the Archbishops of Canterbury till 1391, when, under the authority of a bull of Pope Boniface IX., it was appropriated to the monastery of Bermondsey in exchange for the manor of Waddon, but the patronage of the living remained with the Archbishop. On the dissolution of the convent in 1538, this manor became vested in the Crown, and in 1550 Edward VI. granted the rectory, with other estates in Surrey, to Thomas Walsingham, Esq., of Chislehurst, Kent, and Eobert Moyse, Esq., of Banstead, Surrey. In 1727 this estate belonged to James Walsingham, Esq., who, by will dated that year, gave it to his sister, Lady Osborne, at whose death in 1733 it was divided between the coheiresses of Mr. Walsingham, of whom that lady was one : she left her portion of the property to Henry Boyle, Esq., who took the name of Walsingham. He conveyed it, in 1770, to Anthony Joseph, Viscount Montague, descended from Barbara, another sister of James Walsingham ; and his lordship, having purchased the remainder of the rectorial estate, died seized of it in 1787, and was succeeded by his son, George Samuel, Viscount CROYDON. 239 Montague, whose trustees sold part of the tithes to Lord Gwydyr and other landoAvners. 'This young nobleman was drowned during his travels in Switzerland in 1793, in an attempt to pass in a boat down the fall of the Ehine at Schaffhausen. He had conveyed this manor and the remainder of the tithes to Eobert Harris, Esq., who died in 1807, and the trustees under his will transferred the estate by sale to Alexander Caldecleugh, or Coldcleugh, Esq. In the Taxation of Pope Nicholas the rectory of Croydon is valued at 60 marks, and the vicarage at 15 marks ; and in the King's books the vicarage, discharged of the payment of first-fruits, is rated at £21 18s. lOd. There were anciently two chantries in the parish church. One of these, dedicated to "St. Mary, was founded in the fourteenth century by Eeginald, Lord Cobham, and it was valued in 26 Henry VIII. at £13 8s. ld. The other chantry, dedicated to St. Nicholas, was founded for the repose of the souls of John Stafford, Bishop of Bath and Wells (which see he vacated in 1443, on being translated to that of Canterbury), and of William Oliver, Vicar of Croydon. It was valued at £8 10s. 4d. The Church. — There is known to have been a church at Croydon in the Saxon era, as in Lambard's "Perambulation of Kent " we find a copy of "the will of Byrhtric and JElfwy, made anno 960," a witness to which was " iElffie, the priest of Croydon." Tbe former church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and regarded as one of the finest examples of ecclesiastical architecture in the county, is supposed to have been commenced by Arch bishop Courtenay, Primate 1381 — 96 ; but it was not completed until the days of Archbishop Chichele, who expended on it large sums of money. He Avas, observes StoAV ("Annals," p. 631), "the new builder, or especial repairer of Croydon church, as appeareth by his arms graven on the walls, steeple, and porch." His arms {argent, a ¦chevron, gules, between three cinquefoils of the last) were on the arch over the west or principal entrance. This noble edifice, situated at the bottom of the town, near the source of the Wandle, and adjoining the palace lands, is of stone and flint, and exceedingly well proportioned, in the pointed style. It consists of nave, aisles, and chancel. At the west end is a handsome square tower, rising to the height of four stories. The tower is supported by strong buttresses, and adorned at the summit by battlements, and crocheted pinnacles issuing from octagonal turrets. It contains a good ring of eight bells, cast in 1738, Avith chimes, which play a psalm tune every sixth hour. The first bell is thus inscribed : — " My voice I will raise, And sound to my subscribers' praise At proper times. — Thomas Lister made me, 1738." 240 HISTORY OF SURREY. In 1867 this fine old church was destroyed by fire, nothing but the bare walls being left standing. The edifice has, however, since been carefully restored by the late Sir Gilbert Scott, in accordance with its original style of architecture, the perpendicular. The church, on its restoration, was enlarged by the addition of one bay to the nave, and the consequent extension of the chancel farther eastward. Some of the windows are enriched with stained glass, that over the altar being particularly fine. The Eegisters of the church date from 1538. Aubrey relates that, in the time of " the rebellion, one Blesse was hired, for 2s. 6d. per day, to break the painted-glass windows, which were formerly fine." The old church was unusually rich in monumental brasses and inscriptions ; even on the exterior and in the churchyard were many interesting memorials for the dead.* The inscriptions, down to 1782 inclusive, are preserved at length in Ducarel's " History of Croydon," and in the " Bibliotheca Topographica Britannica; " those of more modern date are given in Steinman's " History of Croydon." We shall indicate some of the more important monuments, most of which were destroyed in the fire above mentioned — a sad and irreparable loss. In the middle chancel, on a sarcophagus within an arched recess, the entablature of which was supported by Corinthian columns, lay the painted effigy of Archbishop Grindal in his scarlet robes. Surmounting the entablature were three armorial shields, * The foUowing beautiful inscription in memory of Mr. Wilham Burnet, who died in 1760, was formerly in the churchyard, but Steinman (" Hist, of Croydon," p. 210, 1833) states it to be now lost :— "What is Man? To-day he's drest in Gold and Silver bright ; Wrapt in a Shroud before to-morrow night : To-day he's feasting on dehcious food ; To-morrow, nothing eat can do him good : To-day he's nice, and scorns to feed on crumbs ; In a few days, himself a dish for worms : To-day he's honour'd, and in great esteem ; To-morrow not a beggar values him : To-day he rises from a velvet bed ; To-morrow hes in one that's made of lead : To-day his house, tho' large, he thinks too small ; To-morrow can command no house at ah : To-day has twenty servants at his gate ; To-morrow scarcely one will deign to wait : To-day perfumed, and sweet as is the rose ; To-morrow stinks in ev'ry body's nose : To-day he's grand, majestic, all delight; Ghastly and pale before to-morrow night. Now, when you've wrote and said whate'er you can, That is the best that you can say of Man." CROYDON. 241 the centre shield bearing the arms of the see of Canterbury, the dexter shield those of the see of York, and the sinister shield those of the see of London. The Archbishop died in 1583. In the south-east corner of St. Nicholas's Chantry was a splendid monument to the memory of Archbishop Sheldon, representing the recumbent effigy of the prelate in his archiepiscopal robes and mitre. The altar tomb, on which the Archbishop appeared in repose, was of black marble. Its panels were enriched by some finely carved osteology. The figure itself was of statuary marble beautifully sculptured : the left hand sustained the head ; in the right was a crosier. Above the figure was an inscription, surmounted by cherubim supporting an armorial shield. Evelyn estimated the cost of this monument, designed by Joseph Latham, the city mason, and entirely executed by him and his English workmen, at from £700 to £800. The Archbishop died at Croydon in 1677. On the north side of the altar, within separate recessed arches, were the sculptured effigies of a man and woman kneeling before desks. This monument, with its quaint inscriptions, Avas a curious specimen of the taste of the sixteenth century. It commemo rated " Maister Henry Mill, Citizen and Grocer of London famous Cittie, Alderman and sometime Shrive (Sheriff) : " ob. 1573. In St. Nicholas's Chantry were also the tombs of the Archbishops Wake, Potter, and Herring, who succeeded each other, and died respectively in 1736, 1747, and 1757. In St. Mary's chancel was a fine tomb to members of the Heron family. Another altar tomb commemorated Ellis Davy (who died in 1459), the founder of an almshouse in Croydon, which will be hereafter noticed. Here also was Archbishop Whitgift's monument, which greatly resembled that of Archbishop Grindal, it being a sarcophagus, supported by Corinthian columns of black marble. It presented the recumbent effigy of the prelate in sable robes, with his hands in the act of prayer ; and its three shields bore respectively the arms of the sees of Canter bury and Worcester and the deanery of Lincoln. On the panels of the sarcophagus were the armorial bearings of the see of Lincoln, and of the colleges of Trinity, Pembroke, and Peterhouse, at Cambridge. His Grace died in 1604 : his funeral was solemnised in a manner suitable to the splendour in Avhich he had lived. Out of the above memorials of past greatness only the mutilated remains of the tombs of Archbishop Sheldon and Whitgift are now left. They are still in fragments, and at present (1879) no efforts have been made to restore them. It appears by the Parish Eegisters that Alexander Barkley, or Barclay, celebrated in his day as the author of " The Ship of Fools," founded on a satirical poem entitled " Navis VOL. 111. 1 1 HISTORY OF SURREY. 242Stultifera," written by Sebastian Brandt, a German, was buried in Croydon Churchyard in 1552. It has not been ascertained whether England or Scotland was the country of Barkley's nativity. According to his own representation he lived at Croydon in the early part of his life. He studied at Oriel College, Oxford, and was afterwards successively a Benedictine monk at Ely and a Franciscan at Canterbury. Besides his " Ship of Fools " —a spirited picture of familiar manners and popular customs— he was the author of several Eclogues, of Lives of some of the Saints, of a pamphlet against Skelton, the poet-laureate, of several translations, &c. Of the Vicars of Croydon, Roland Phillips, D.D., collated 1497, is entitled to notice, were it only for one memorable expression. Preaching at St. Paul's (of which he was one of the canons) against printing, he exclaimed, " We (the Eoman Catholics) must root out printing, or printing will root out us ! " Dr. Bhillips was considered as " a great and a renowned clerk," as " a famous and notable preacher, and a forward man in the Convoca tion of the clergy." WUliam Clewer, D.D., collated in 1660, " at the recommendation of Charles II., who had been imposed upon with regard to his character," " was notorious for his singular love of litigation, unparalleled extortions, and criminal and disgraceful conduct," which eventually caused his ejectment from this benefice in 1684.* John Ireland, D.D., collated in 1793, wrote "five discourses, containing certain arguments for and against the reception of Christianity by the ancient Jews and Greeks, 1796." This divine was afterwards Dean of Westminster, and the founder of the Ireland Scholarship in the University of Oxford. Vicars of Croydon since 1816 : — ¦ 1. — John Cutis Zockwood, M.A., was collated in 1816. 2. — Henry Lindsay, M.A., collated by the Archbishop in 1830. 3. — John George Hodgson, M.A. Instituted in 1846 ; resigned in 1879. 4. — Edtvard Wyndham Tufnell, D.D. (ex-Bishop of Brisbane). Instituted in 1879. The old vicarage-house, which adjoined the churchyard, was erected on the ancient site by Archbishop Wake in 1730. It was pulled down about 1847, and the grounds added * See "Case of the Inhabitants of Croydon," quoted by Garrow in his "Appendix," pp. 304 — 309. The subjoined anecdote, from Captain Smith's " Lives of Highwaymen," is offered as a slight, very slight, illustration of the character of this divine : — " O'Bryan, meeting with Dr. Clewer, try'd once and burnt in the hand at the Old Bailey for stealing a silver cup, coming along the road from Acton, he demanded his money; but the reverend doctor having not a farthing, about him, O'Bryan was for taking his gown. At this our divine was much dissatisfied ; but, perceiving his enemy would plunder him, quoth he, ' Pray, Sir, let me have a chance for my gown ;' so, pulling a pack of cards out of his pocket, he farther said — ' We'll have, if you please, one game of all-fours for it, and if you win it, take it and wear it.' This challenge was readily accepted by the foot-pad, but being more cunning than his antagonist at slipping and palming the cards, he won the game, and the doctor went contentedly home without his canonicals." CROYDON. 243 to the churchyard, a new vicarage being at the same time erected about a quarter of a mile west of the church, in the hamlet of Waddon. The increased population of Croydon rendering necessary additional places of worship for the Established Church, it was determined to erect two chapels-of-ease. Accordingly two grants of £3,500 were obtained from the Commissioners for the building of new churches, partly feom which, and partly from loans to be paid off by instalments, the determination was carried into effect. In 1827 the first stone of St. James's Church was laid on what was formerly known as Croydon Common. The church was consecrated in 1829. The building, of pale brick, is in the pointed style of architecture, from a design by Mr. E. Wallace, architect. It consists of nave and aisles, with a chancel, and a small but rather lofty campanile tower at the west end. The tower has pinnacles at the angles, with three pointed windows in each face. The nave has six windows, and the chancel three. The galleries are supported on square piers. The font is a marble vase brought from the mother church. In its general effect this building is meagre, and deficient in dignity. This church is a perpetual curacy, in the patronage of the Vicar of Croydon for the time being. Since 1850 St. James's district has been subdivided, and the following churches erected in the districts attached : — Holy Trinity, Selhurst, 1867 ; St. Saviour's, 1867 ; St. Luke's, Woodside, 1871 ; and St. Mary Magdalene, Addiscombe. Of All Saints' Church, on Beulah Hill, Norwood, erected from the designs of J. Savage, architect, the foundation stone was laid in 1827. This building consists of nave, aisles, and chancel. It has a small tower at each extremity, the west front is adorned with several richly crocheted pinnacles, and in the centre are three pointed windows. The aisles are divided by buttresses into six compartments, and in each compartment is a pointed window. Occupying an elevated site, and having a spire ascending from its western tower, this church is seen to advantage from several parts of the county. All Saints' has been enlarged within a recent date. The following churches have been built in Croydon within the last thirty years : — St. Peter's, with schools attached ; St. Andrew's, with schools attached ; Christ Church, with schools attached ; St. John the Evangelist, Shirley, with schools attached ; St. Paul's, at New Thornton Heath, consecrated in 1872 ; St. Matthew's, in Lower Addiscombe Eoad, consecrated in 1866, and enlarged in 1877. Several denominations of Dissenters have chapels and meeting-houses at Croydon. No less than eight buildings are set apart for Congregationalists, five for Anabaptists, and four for Wesleyans; whilst the Plymouth Brethren, Undenominationalists, Uni- 1 1 2 244 HISTORY OF SURREY. tarians, Bresbyterians, and Primitive Methodists have each a chapel of their own. The Eoman Catholic Church of St. Mary, in Wellesley Eoad, has a large school attached to it. In Park Lane the Society of Friends have an extensive establishment, supported by subscriptions, and providing for the maintenance and education of 150 boys and girls. It Avas in 1825 that this excellent institution was removed hither from Islington, where it had existed upwards of a century. Whitgift's Hospital. — This, the noblest benefaction in Croydon, was founded in the reign of Elizabeth by Archbishop Whitgift, " for the maintenance of a warden, school master, and twenty-eight men and women, or as many more under forty as the revenues would admit." In 1849 the Hospital was enlarged, so as to include the full complement of thirty-nine inmates. The Hospital, situated at the entrance of the town from London, is an unpretending quadrangular brick edifice of the Elizabethan style. Over the entrance are the arms of the see of Canterbury, surmounting this inscription: — " Qvi dat pavperi NON INDIGEBIT." The pious and benevolent founder, having obtained letters-patent, with license of mortmain, from the Queen, dated 1596, soon afterwards commenced the building, and finished it in 1599, having expended on the works the sum of £2,716 lis. lid. Th. original yearly revenue ofthe institution, arising chiefly from the Archbishop's endowment, was only £185 4s. 2d. ; but having been greatly increased by fines on the renewal of leases, and by sundry benefactions, it amounted, in 1817, to more than £480 ; and fixed rents having been substituted in lieu of all fines, it is now upwards of £2,000 per annum. According to the original statutes of the Hospital, the nomination of the brethren and sisters is vested in the Archbishop of Canterbury. The number of women was not to exceed half that of. the men. Each poor brother and sister, whose respective ages must not be under sixty, is to receive the sum of £5 per annum, besides wood, corn, and other provisions. Amongst the crimes to be punished by expulsion are, " obstinate heresye, sorcerye, any kind of charmynge, or witchcrafte." The schoolmaster, who is also chaplain, is to receive £20 per annum, and the warden £11. The chapel of the Hospital, a small apartment at its south-east angle, was consecrated in 1599 by the name of " The Chapel of the Holy Trinity." On the outside, over the window bearing the founder's arms, is this inscription on Portland stone : — " Eboracencis * Hanc Fenestram Fieri Fecit, 1597." * Supposed to be Michael Murgatroid, Whitgift's secretary. ¦&&&.. "by i£J. Staxliai LONDON, VIRTtlE iC'um™. CROYDON. 24.5 In the chapel are some interesting remains : amongst them is a portrait of the Arch bishop painted on board, and inscribed above — " Feci quod potui; potui quod, Christe, dedisti: Improba, fac melius, si potes, Invidia : " below — " Has Triadi Sanctee primo qui struxerat redes, Illius en veram Prassulis effigiem." * Also a portrait of a lady in a ruff, dated a.d. 1616, setat. thirty-eight, and supposed to be one of the Archbishop's daughters. In this chapel is an outline delineation, framed, of Death as a skeleton and grave- digger, erroneously described as the " Dance of Death." There are likewise in frames two long elegiac inscriptions, one in Latin, the other in English, in commemoration of the character and virtues of Archbishop Whitgift. Over the outer gate, in an upper room called the Treasury, are preserved, amongst other documents, the original letters-patent to the founder, embellished with a drawing of Queen Elizabeth, on vellum, and the Archbishop's deed of foundation, with a drawing of himself, very beautifully executed. In the hall, on the north side of the inner porch, where the inmates, both male and female, dine together three times yearly, is a folio Bible in black letter, with wooden covers mounted with brass, and a Latin inscription commemorating its presentation by the Eev. Abraham Hartwell, M.A., Secretary to Archbishop Whitgift, and author of several literary works. It has Cranmer's preface, and was printed in 1596. Here, also, formerly were three antique wooden goblets (now lost), one of which, holding about three pints, bore this inscription : — " What, sirrah ! hold thy pease ; Thirst satisfied, cease ! " Contiguous to the Hospital are the school-house and the master's residence. " The howse which I have builded for the sayde schoole howse," said the founder, " and also the howse which I have buylded for the schoolemaster, shal be for ever imployde to that use onlye, and to no other." Notwithstanding this, the school-house was appropriated to the children of the National School. The master's house, however, is still used in conformity * The foUowing translations have been given of each distich : — " My all I did ; the all allow'd by Heaven : Envy, do more, if more to thee be given." " The Primate's breathing Image here you see, Who built this Structure to the Holy Three!' 246 HISTORY OF SURREY. Avith the founder's intention.* An upper and middle class school, and also a public elementary school, both on the foundation of Archbishop Whitgift's Hospital, have been recently erected. The schools afford instruction to 300 boys. Archbishop Tenison's School. — For the endowment of this institution, originally at North End, in 1714 Archbishop Tenison purchased a farm and lands at Limpsfield, in this county, of the then yearly value of £42, and bequeathed to it the sum of £400 to be laid out in land for the extension of the charity. The school was originally established for ten poor boys and an equal number of girls; now, from the increase of the revenues, the number has been greatly augmented. The school was transferred to the south end of the town, close to St. Peter's Church, about 1850. Besides the above-mentioned schools, there are now several which have been erected under the auspices of the Croydon School Board. Ellis Davy's Almshouse. — Under letters-patent from Henry VL, Archbishop Stratford, and the abbot and convent of St. Saviour, Bermondsey, Ellis Davy, citizen and mercer of London, in 1447 founded an Almshouse in Croydon for seven poor people, men and women, six of whom were to receive lOd. per week each, and the seventh, to be called the tutor, ls. It was endowed with £18 per annum, with the rents of four neighbouring cottages for repairs. The vicar, churchwardens, and four of the principal inhabitants of Croydon were appointed governors, the masters and wardens of tho Mercers' Company overseers. The founder required that the clothes of the tutor and poor of his Almshouse should be " darke and browne of colour, and not staring, neither biasing, and of easy price cloth, according to their degree ; " that they should attend divine service daily in the church of Croydon, and there " pray upon their knees, for the King, in three Paternosters, three Aves, and a Credo, with special and hortily recommenda tions" of the founder to God and the Virgin Mary; that they should also say, for " the estate of all the sowls abovesaid," daily at their convenience, one ave, fifteen paternosters, and three credos ; and that after the death of the founder, provided he should be buried at Croydon, they and their successors should appear daily before his tomb, and there say the psalm De Profundis, or three paternosters, three aves, and a credo, j- * The National or parish Charity School, alluded to above as occupying the school-house adjoining and belonging to Archbishop Whitgift's Hospital, was estabhshed in 1812, upon the principle of the late Dr. Bell. Here is also a school upon the Lancastrian system, estabhshed in the same year, for education of indigent children of all persuasions. The present school-house, situated at North End, was built in 1829. Besides these there are a school of industry for girls, conducted in the palace chapel, and an infants' school, under the patronage of the ladies. These establishments are all supported by voluntary contributions. + The Statutes of Davy's Almshouse, which exhibit a curious picture of the moral and religious feeling of the times, may be found at length in Steinman's " Croydon," Appendix VII. page 267 ; in Archbishop Morton's Register ; and in the- Appendix to Ducarel's " History of Croydon." CROYDON. 2+7 The present building, situated near the church, and plain and humble in appearance, was raised about a hundred years ago. The Almshouses were enlarged in 1875, and the number of inmates increased to twelve. In the Little Almshouses in Pitlake the poor of Croydon are usually placed. They must have been originally built previously to 1528, as in that year a rent-charge of 20s. was given to them by Joan Price. In 1629 Arnold Goldwell gave £40 towards their re-erection; in 1722 they were described as "nine small low inconvenient houses;" and in 1775 they were enlarged by the addition of two new buildings for twelve poor residents, with funds supplied by the then Earl of Bristol, and a subscription raised amongst the inhabitants. These Almshouses are situated near the church. The Eoyal Masonic Benevolent Institution, St. James's Eoad, was founded in 1850 for the relief of Freemasons or their widows. The building is of brick and stone, in the Elizabethan style of architecture. The Croydon General Hospital, in London Eoad, was opened in 1873 by the Archbishop of Canterbury, and contains accommodation for thirty-five patients. The Hospital was originally established in 1867 in the old workhouse infirmary. Amongst the benefactions to the parish may be mentioned one of £10 10s. per annum from Archbishop Laud for apprenticing poor boys, and also the rent of the Hermitage estate, about £34 yearly, which is distributed amongst the poor. The town of Croydon had a market on Wednesdays, obtained by Archbishop Kilwardby in the reign of Edward I. ; and a fair, which began on the eve of St. Botolph, and lasted nine days. Another market, on Thursdays, was granted to Archbishop Eeynolds by Edward II., and a fair on the eve and morrow of St. Matthew. A third market, on Saturdays (the only one now continued), was granted by Edward III. to Archbishop Stratford, and a fair on the festival of St. John the Baptist. The fairs are now held on the 2nd of October for cattle, horses, and sheep, and in July for avooI. By the Eeform Act (2 Wm. IV. c. 45) Croydon was appointed one of the polling places for the eastern division of the county. Its population, at the census of 1871, was 55,000, and is now (1879) computed to reach 70,000, in which case it ranks as the largest unrepresented town in England. Upwards of eight hundred houses were placed on the rate-book in 1878 alone. The. Town-hall is a stone edifice, with columns of the Doric order in the lower part, and of the Ionic in the upper. It is surmounted by a cupola, with a turret and clock, its upper story comprising a court for the trial of civil causes at the assizes (held alternately here and at Guildford), with rooms for the Judges, Sheriff, and grand jury. The 2+8 HISTORY OF SURREY. building also contains offices for the Local Board of Health, &c. The magistrates of the division hold petty sessions here every Saturday, and the County Court is also held fortnightly. The ground floor is reserved for a corn market, but during the assizes it is occupied as the Criminal Court. This building (first opened in 1809, and repaired in 3829) was erected from a design by Mr. Samuel Pepys Cockerell. The expense, upwards of £8,000, was defrayed from the proceeds of certain waste lands belonging to the parish, and disposed of by Act of Parliament in 1806. The old market-house for butter, poultry, &c, built in 1566, at the cost of Francis Tirrell, citizen and grocer, a native of Croydon, was pulled down in 1807. The present structure (situated in High Street) was raised in 1808, at an expense of £1,219, derived from the same source as that of the Town-hall. The Union Workhouse, in Queen's Eoad, is for paupers from the following eleven parishes or places : — Addington, Beddington, Coulsdon, Croydon, Merton, Mitcham, Mordon, Penge, Sanderstead, Wallington, and Woodmansterne. The Barracks, built in 1794, at the entrance of the town from Mitcham, were originally intended only as a temporary station for cavalry. However, they contain accommodation for three troops, with a "hospital for 34 patients, stabling for 192 horses, a store-room for 1,000 sets of harness, Avith field equipments, riding-house, and the accustomed offices." The barracks are now used by the 2nd Surrey Eifle Volunteers. A Canal was opened at Croydon in 1809. After running from the north end of the town through Norwood, Penge Common, Sydenham, Forest Wood, and New Cross, it united with the Thames at Eotherhithe. Not paying its expenses, it was purchased by the Croydon Eailway Company, and the upper part, having been filled up, now forms a portion of the railway line. In 1846 the population of Croydon amounted to about 16,000 souls; it is now, as stated above, estimated at about 70,000, aud still rapidly increasing. This vast increase in the population of late years is attributed by the Eegistrar General to "the great facilities afforded by railway communication;" but to this may be added the general salubrity of the locality and the natural beauties of the surrounding country. Croydon is now the largest suburban town in the neighbourhood of London, and its railway com munication with the metropolis is both rapid and complete, the trains between Croydon and London being upwards of four hundred a day, and there being no less than eight stations in the town and parish, namely, the West Croydon, East Croydon, South Croydon, New Croydon, Addiscombe Eoad, Selhurst, Waddon, and Thornton Heath, which place the inhabitants within easy reach of London Bridge, Charing Cross, or Victoria Station. ADDINGTON. 249 Like most other towns of note, Croydon has a Literary and Scientific Institution, which was founded in 1838. The new public hall and rooms in connection with the institution are in Wellesley Eoad. The town also possesses a commodious theatre, which, with the market for meat and vegetables, occupies the place of the old public lecture hall. There are likewise some spacious baths, and also working men's clubs. The town is well paved, lighted with gas, drained, and has an excellent supply of water. Tradition states that James I., the first founder of regulations respecting horse-racing, held Croydon and Enfield Chase in great estimation as resorts for his favourite pursuit. In the Appendix to Garrow's "History of Croydon " are lists of rare plants growing in this vicinity, and of various fossils found in the chalk at the neighbouring gravel-pits. ADDINGTON. Addington is situated on the eastern confines of the county, about three miles east- south-east from Croydon, at the foot of a range of hills to which it gives the name of Addington Common. The parish borders on that of Croydon on the west and north ; on Beckenham and West Wickham, in Kent, on the east ; and on Farley and Sanderstead on the south. The soil is in general gravelly, but in some places consists of clay or chalk. Antiquaries may feel interested in the fact that in the common above the village of Addington might be traced, till the middle of the present century, nearly five-and- twenty tumuli, out of which fragments of urns, &c, have occasionally been taken. Most of the tumuli were small, but one of them was nearly 40 feet in diameter. It is a tradition of the inhabitants that Addington was formerly of much greater extent than at present. In ]278 Eobert, son of William de Aguilon, who had been Sheriff of Surrey from 1261 to 1267, and was then made Governor of Guildford Castle, obtained the royal license to embattle his house at this place, the King at the same time granting him free-warren in his manor of Addington. Agreeably with this statement, a hill near the church retains the name of Castle Hill, and formerly timbers and other remains of buildings were occasionally dug up here. The mansion of Eobert de Aguilon is believed to have been the manorial residence until the close of the fourteenth century ; and it appears, from the following inscription over the principal entrance, that a new house was erected on the same spot between 1400 and 1403 ; but the latter structure, composed of flints and chalk, was pulled down about 1780 : — " In fourteen hundred and none there was neither stick nor stone ; In fourteen hundred and three the goodly building which you see." VOL. III. K K 2S0 HISTORY OF SURREY. Here were two manors, each named Eddintone at the time of the Doomsday survey, which are thus described : — " In Waleton Hundred, Albert the Clerk holds of the King Eddintone, which was held by Osward of King Edward. It was then assessed at 8 hides ; now, at 2 hides. The arable land amounts to 4 carucates. Two are in the demesne ; and five villains, and four cottars, with \\ carucates. The wood yields twenty swine. In the time of King Edward, as at present, it was valued at 100s." " Tezelin the Cook holds of the King Edintone, which Godric held of Edward the Confessor. It was then assessed at 8 hides ; now, at 1 hide. The arable land consists of 4 carucates. There are in the demesne 2 carucates ; and eight villains, and nine cottars, with 2\ carucates. The wood yields twenty swine. It was and is worth 100s." The manor of Addington, held by the King's cook, furnishes an example of the tenure of estates by sergeanty, which has been continued to the present time. From the Testa de Nevill (the most valuable record of the state of landed property in England next to the Doomsday Book) we learn that Bartholomew de Chennay, or Chesnaye, held of the King a certain part of Addington, per serjanciam Coquince ; that Eichard I. had given the manor, with the daughter of Bartholomew, to Peter Fitz-Alwin ; and that King John bestowed it on Ealph Parmentar, with the daughter of Peter : in the time of Henry III. it had fallen back into the hands of the King. In the same record it is stated that William Aguilon held certain land in Addington by the sergeanty of making hastias in the King's kitchen on the day of his coronation, or providing some one as his deputy to make a dish called girunt, and, if suet was added, it was called malpigernoun.* The manor passed from the Aguilons by the marriage of Isabel, daughter of Eobert Aguilon, with Hugh Bardolf, whose descendants held it temp. Henry. IV. Philippa, queen of Edward III., received the profits of this manor, by the grant of her husband, from the death of John Bardolf, in 1364, to her decease in 1369, after which the King enjoyed them during the minority of William, son of the aforesaid John Bardolf. In 1367 the * The dish is mentioned by various names, and it was to be prepared, we are told, in olla lutea.. By some it is called giranit, or gyroun ; and if seym (a Saxon word for fat) were put in, it was called malpigernoun. When the manor was held by the Bardolfs in the reign of Edward III., it was said, in stating the service, that the lord " was to provide three dishes ; one for the King, one for the Archbishop of Canterbury, and the other for whoever the King pleased." Lysons, in his " Environs," observes that he cannot find that there exists any ancient receipt for making the mess, unless it be that called Bardolf in a collection of ancient cookery receipts in the fourteenth century, printed at the end of the " Royal Household Establishments," pubhshed by the Society of Antiquaries in 1790. It was called a pottage, and consisted of almond milk, brawn of capons, sugar, and spices, chicken parboiled and chopped, &c. The service, as we have said, is stih kept up ; and " a dish of pottage " is always presented, by the lord of the manor of Addington, to the sovereign at his or her coronation. It appears, from an account of the coronation of James II., that it was customary for the King, on receiving the dish, to confer the honour of knighthood on the lord of the manor of Bardolf. (Vide Lysons, " Environs," vol. i. pp. 5, 6.) ADDINGTON. 251 Queen granted the wardship and marriage of this William Bardolf to Sir Michael Poynings, with the view of his marrying Agnes, daughter of Sir Michael. This he afterwards did, and had livery of his lands. Thomas, Lord Bardolf, his son, joined the Earl of North umberland in the insurrection against Henry IV. in 1404. They were attacked by the King's troops, under Sir Thomas Eokeby, near Thirsk, when Northumberland fell, and Bardolf, being wounded and taken prisoner, died soon after. His body was quartered and set on the gates of several towns, but his widow obtained the King's leave to take the quarters down and bury them. He was attainted, and his estates were seized ; but he had previously settled the manor of Addington on his younger son William. Soon after 1424 the manor became vested in William Uvedale, but whether as a purchaser, or as a trustee for the two daughters of William Bardolf, does not appear. It next passed, by purchase, to John Leigh, or At Lee, who had other possessions in the parish : he died in 1479. Nicholas, his grandson, married Ann, eldest daughter of Sir Nicholas Carew. John, the son of Nicholas, built the mansion called Addington Place in 1544. He married Joan, daughter of James Olliph, of West Wickham, and, dying in 1576, was succeeded by his eldest son, Sir Olliph Leigh, from whom the manor descended to Sir John Leigh, who died without surviAring issue in 1737 ; and a will which he had made in favour of the relations of his second wife being set aside, his estates, by a decree of the House of Lords in 1744, were given to Mrs. Bennett and Mrs. Spencer, the daughters of his uncle, Wolley Leigh, Esq. In 1767 an Act of Barliament was obtained for vesting these estates in trustees, for the purpose of making a division of them, in consequence of which Addington, with other property, was assigned to Mrs. Spencer in 1768. In the same year this lady and her eldest son, Wolley Leigh Spencer, sold the manor of Addington, the mansion, rectory, and advowson of the vicarage, with all the farms and lands, to Barlow Trecothick, Esq., Alderman of London, and Lord Mayor in 1770, for £38,500. In the particulars of sale the lands were computed at 5,000 acres, of which about 500 were wood and 1,000 waste.* In 1770 Mr. Trecothick, having lost his first wife, married Ann Meredith, of Henbury, in Cheshire, and settled on her an annuity for life, payable out of this estate. Leaving no issue, Mr. Trecothick devised the Addington property to his nephew, James Iyers, who took the name and arms of Trecothick. The alderman died in 1775. In 1803 his nepheAV sold this estate in lots, when the manor, mansion-house, rectory, advowson, and some of the lands were sold to Thomas Coles, Esq., whose son William, in 1808, transferred the same, by sale, to the trustees of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and Addington Bark thus * On the enclosure of Croydon Common in 1797 a large part of the common between Addiscombe and Addington was claimed by Mr. Trecothick in right of his manor of Addington, and on a trial the claim was admitted to be just. K K 2 2S? HISTORY OF SURREY. became the property of the primate for the time being, instead of the old palace at Croydon, which was sold under the authority of an Act of Parliament. There was in Addington another manor, which Mr. Manning represents as the same with that held by Albert the Clerk at the time of the Doomsday survey. This statement, at best, is doubtful, for that manor was held of the King in capite, whilst the manor to which Manning refers was, as he himself informs us, subordinate to that of Croydon, belonging to the see of Canterbury. Walter de Merton gave this manor to the Knights Templars, to hold of the Archbishop's manor of Croydon by the payment of a rent of 32s. ld. This order having been dissolved in the reign of Edward II., an Act of Parliament was passed in 1324, whereby the estates of the Templars in this country were granted to the Hospitallers or Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, who held Addington till the suppression of their order in England in 1540. A lease of this manor had been granted in 1523 to a person named Middleton, who in 1540 sold it to Nicholas Leigh, Esq., who held the other manor of Addington, and he obtained from the King a grant in fee of this manor, dated 1545. There was here a third manor or estate belonging to the monastery of St. Mary Overie, in Southwark, to which were annexed the rectory and advowson of the church. It was rated at 10s. Twelve acres of land in this parish were held by that convent, on condition of keeping a lamp burning by night in the church. This estate, including the advowson, is said to have been the gift of Bartholomew de Kaisnet,* probably the person who in the Testa de Nevill is called Bartholomew de Chesney, lord of the principal manor held of the Crown by sergeanty : the land, therefore, was originally a portion of that manor, which, reverting to the King when the convent was suppressed, was included with the manor of the Templars in the grant of Henry VIII. to Nicholas Leigh, Esq. Addington Park.— Addington Park and mansion, the country residence of the Archbishops of Canterbury, with several farms and woods, were purchased, as already stated, in 1807 by Archbishop Sutton, with trust moneys of the see assigned for the purpose of its conversion into an archiepiscopal abode. Contiguous lands were added by purchases made with similar funds by Dr. Howley, his successor in the see. The mansion was built by Mr. Alderman Trecothick, but in 1829-30 a chapel, a library, and many other apartments were added, and the residence was greatly improved, the cost being defrayed chiefly by moneys raised by a mortgage on the revenues of the archiepiscopal see, and a fund applicable to the erection of a chapel. Altogether this mansion is now one of the most convenient houses for a large family that could well be contrived. The rooms, * Dugdale's " Monasticon." ADDINGTON. 253 though not very large, are of good proportion and well arranged. The house has been but slightly altered since Dr. Howley's time. From many parts of the park, which is beautifully situated at the foot of the slope of the Addington hills, delightful views are commanded, extending over Surrey and Kent. It is considered to be eminently healthy, and, as there is no public road through the park, it seems to be a retirement admirably calculated for its dignified owner. The Eectory, Vicarage, and Church. — Though not mentioned in the Doomsday survey, it is supposed that there was a church at Addington previously to the Conquest. The rectory, with the church, and the Chapel of All Saints, formerly annexed to it (the patronage of which belonged to Eeginald de Edintone, or Edindone), was given by Bartholomew de Chesney to the priory of St. Mary Overy. In the sixteenth century it was granted to Nicholas Leigh, and has passed with the principal estate ever since. The benefice is now a vicarage in the rural deanery of Croydon, in the diocese of Canterbury, and in the patronage of the Archbishop of Canterbury. It "is assessed at 10 marks in the Valor of Edward I. ; is rated in the King's books at £4 16s. 5^d. ; and pays for synodals to the bishop 2s. ld. The vicar had, formerly, half of the small tithes of Aguilon's manor, and the 20th of the sheaves belonging to the manor of St. Mary Overie, but nothing from the Templars' manor, nor from the 12 acres out of which the Priory of St. Mary Overie kept a lamp burning in the church." * The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a small structure, "originally of flint, with the window-cases of friable stone." The exterior walls of the body of the church were rebuilt with brick by Alderman Trecothick about 1773. At the west end is a large square tower embattled, and containing four bells : this was originally of flint, but has been mostly renewed with brickwork. The whole fabric, however, is now cased with flint. The north and south aisles are separated from the nave by plain pointed arches, supported by massy pillars. These, with the chancel, are thought to be coeval with the original building: the windows in the north wall appear to be of the time of Edward III., when the church is understood to have been in a great measure rebuilt. In the chancel are several lancet windows, and there are two others in the south aisle. The church contains a large monument to Mr. Alderman Trecothick, who rebuilt the outer walls and new-pewed the edifice. In 1843 Addington Church was thoroughly repaired — it may almost be said renovated — internally and externally, at the expense of Archbishop Howley, and a new stone font was put in. The church now contains sittings for 300 worshippers. In 1878 * Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 563. 2S4 HISTORY OF SURREY. the large west window in the tower was filled in with stained glass, as a memorial of the late Eev. Craufurd Tait, the subject being the Ascension of our Lord. Of the numerous old monuments with which this structure was formerly enriched many are entirely lost, and most of those that remain are in a very dilapidated state.* This church was; restored in 1876, at a cost of £5,000, from the designs of Mr. Piers St. Aubyn. The work of restoration included the building of a new north aisle and a vestry; the reroofing of the whole church, with the exception of the chancel ; the raising of the tower and opening it into the nave ; and the entire reseating of the body of the church. Much has also been done in the way of internal improvement and decoration. Against the north wall is a costly monument of alabaster and black marble,, erected by Sir Olliph Leigh to his father and mother. In the upper part are two arches, under one of which are kneeling figures of John Leigh, Esq. (father of Sir Olliph), who died in 1576, and his wife Joan, daughter and heiress of Sir John Olliph. Under the other arch are figures in the same posture of Nicholas Leigh, the grandfather, who died in 1565, and his wife Anne, daughter of Sir Nicholas Carew. The figures are in the habits of their time, and in proper, but now faded, colours. Underneath is a recumbent statue of Sir Olliph Leigh, who erected the monument, and who died in 1612. He is represented as com pletely armed, and reclining upon his elbow. In a lower compartment is the effigy of his wife Jane, daughter of Sir Thomas Browne, of Betchworth, Knt., leaning on her right hand, with a book in her left. In the north-east corner of the chancel is an altar tomb of Sussex marble, on which are engraved brasses of a man and woman in a standing posture, with their hands closed as in prayer, and supplicatory labels issuing from their lips.f beneath are the figures of five children. The slab is decorated with the arms and quarterings of the Leighs and Harveys, the whole being surrounded with an inscribed border of brass, showing that this tomb was raised in memory of John Leigh, Esq., who died in 1509, and Isabel, his wife, sister of Sir George Harvey : she died in 1544. Above this tomb is the monument of Sarah, wife of Sir Francis Leigh, and of her mother, Elizabeth Lovel, sister of Henry Guy, Esq., of Tring, in Hertfordshire, who died in 1691. On a slab near the communion-table is a brass figure of a man in armour, and under neath an inscription in black letter to Thomas Hatteclyff, Esq., " su'tyme one of ye fowre masters of the howsholde to our sov'aigne Lord Kyng Henry ye VIII." Amongst the * Many of the inscriptions, no longer visible in the church, are preserved in Manning and Bray's " Surrey," vol. ii. pp. 363—365. t Bearing a remarkable resemblance to these are two small detached brasses preserved in the neighbouring church of Sanderstead. CHALDON. 255 ¦other memorials are some neat mural tablets of modern date. Archbishops Manners- Sutton and Howley are buried in vaults underneath the church, and Archbishops Sumner and Longley in graves in the churchyard. Various hatchments, armour, &c, commemorative of persons interred here, appear in the chancel. The Eegisters of this church commence in 1559. Vicars of Addington in and since 1800 : — 1. — Henry James Todd, MA. Eesigned in 1820. 2. — John Collinson Bissett. Instituted in 1821. 3. — Matthew Thomas Farrer. Instituted in 1843. 4. — William Benham, M.A. Instituted in 1867. 5. — -Erskine William Knollys, M.A. Instituted in 1873. A. school chapel was built in Addington parish in 1873; and a Working Man's Club has also been since opened. In the little district of Shirley, situated between the village of Addington and the town of Croydon, is a new district church dedicated to St. John, built by local subscriptions, aided by the Church Building Society, at the cost of £1,300. It Avas consecrated by the Archbishop of Canterbury in 1835. It is a plain structure, with sittings for 230 persons. Near Shirley Church are a good house for the residence of the curate, and a small school for children. A large house has been built on the Ballards estate, which formerly belonged to W. Hoffman, Esq., by Charles Goschen, Esq., who also bought the Heathfield estate. His brother, W. H. Goschen, Esq., Hves at Heathfield House. The number of acres in this parish, estimated and tithable, is about 3,900. The com muted rent-charge is as follows : — ¦Eectorial tithes, £600 ; vicarial ditto, £208 5s. About half an acre of glebe land belongs to this vicarage, but there is no glebe house. On Thunderfield Common, in this parish, is a circular encampment encompassed by a double moat, enclosing about 2 acres of ground. chaldon. This parish, lying on the north side of the chalk hills which intersect the county, is bounded on the north by Coulsdon, on the east by Caterham, on the south by Bletchingley, and on the west by Merstham and Chipstead. Through the parish extends a road called in old deeds the " ancient Stansted," supposed to have been of Eoman construction. At Z56 HISTORY OF SURREY. the foot of the hill in Chaldon are stone quarries, which in the time of Edward III. belonged to the Crown, and were considered of so much importance that they were placed under the charge of a bailiff specially appointed .* They are not now worked. The manor is thus described in the Doomsday Book :— " The same Ealph [de Felgeres] holds of the Bishop (of Baieux) Calvedone,t which Derinc held of King Edward. It was then assessed at 2 hides : now at the same. The arable land amounts to 2 carucates : and there are in the demesne ; and there is a Church. In the time of King Edward it was valued at 40s. ; afterwards at 20s. ; and now at £4." In the reign of Henry II. this manor, with the advowson, belonged to Sir Eichard Covert, said to have been the son of Bartholomew Covert, who came into England with the Norman Conqueror, and obtained from him large estates in Sussex. Eoger Covert, or de Covert, sixth in descent from Sir Eichard, conveyed the estate to Sir John Haunsard, and Gundreda his wife, for their joint lives, in 1275, and it reverted to the Coverts in or before 1298, when Eoger de Covert died seized of it. From an inquiry which took place in 28 Edward I. it appears that the manor of Chalvedon was held of the King in socage, and not by knight's service. In the fifteenth century it was sold by William Covert, of Sullington, who died in 1444 ; and his grandson, William Covert, of Slaugham, in 1476 released all his right in the manor of Chalvedon to certain persons, probably trustees for Ann, widow of John Elmebrigge, whose son, Thomas Elmebrigge, left as his sole heiress a daughter, who became the wife of Sir John Dannett. After repeated changes of owners this estate was ultimately purchased in 1785 by William Jolliffe, Esq., grandfather of the first Lord Hylton, on whose death in 1876 this manor devolved upon his son, the second Lord Hylton. The manor and farm of Tolsworth, or Tullesworth, in Chaldon and Merstham, formerly belonged to the prior and canons of Merton. Queen Elizabeth in 1602 granted it to John and Thomas Eoche, and after repeated transfers it was bought in 1724 by Paul Docminique, Esq. The Manor of Willey. — In 6 Edward III. John de Warblington died seized of a tenement in Chalvedon called Wilhvyke, and his son and heir, of the same name, in 1368 obtained a grant of free- warren in this manor. Margaret de Warblington held it in 1485. John Cooke in 1552 conveyed the estate to Sir Thomas Cawarden, of Bletchingley, who had the right of free-warren confirmed by a grant from Queen Mary. Sir Thomas left it by will to John Brown, and Alice his wife, whose son conveyed it to Eichard Betenson, Esq. ; and * Vide Rot. Pat. 33 Edward III. pt. 3. t In the fac-simile of Doomsday (Surrey) in Manning the name is written Salvedone, probably by mistake. CHALDON. 257 one of his descendants, Sir Edward Betenson, Bart., died seized of it in 1733. lie had suffered a recovery of this estate in 1691, and leaving no issue, Willey, on his death, came into the possession of Albinia, the eldest of his four sisters, who married Brigadier- General Selwyn. In 1734 that lady sold the property to Sir William Clayton, Bart., whose descendant, the present Sir William Clayton, Bart., still owns it. Stansted. — This estate was formerly the property of a family which took its name from the place. George Eoffey, Esq., of Camberwell, in 1708 gave by will farms and lands called Stansted, alias Fryerne, in Chaldon, to his daughter Joanna, and the heirs of her body, with remainder to his nephew, George Eoffey, and his heirs male : remainder to his OAvn heirs. The estate came into the possession of the last-named George Eoffey, whose tAvo sons and daughter, in 1770, joined in a sale to Matthew Eobinson, who in 1781 resold Stansted to Eichard Hewetson, of Croydon; and he, dying in 1799, devised it to his nephew, Henry Hewetson, Esq. This living is a rectory, in the deanery of Ewell and diocese of Eochester. According to Ecton, it is dedicated to St. Peter ; to St. John, according to Willis ; but from the will of Isabel, widoAV of Baldwin Covert, dated in 1440, it appears to have St. Peter and St. Paul for its patron saints.* In 20 Edward I. Chaldon rectory was valued at 15 marks. Rectors of Chaldon in and since 1800 : — 1.— Robert Welton. Instituted in 1780. 2.- — -Thomas Welton. Instituted in 1811. 3. — James Legrew, M.A. Instituted in 1830. A.— Henry Shepherd, M.A. Instituted in 1856. 5. — Harry Charrington Fisher, M.A. Instituted in 1875. The church, which stands on au elevated site, is believed to have been founded in the early Norman times. It has a nave, a south aisle, and a shorter north aisle. On each side two arches, resting on round columns, divide the nave from the aisles. The chancel, restored in 1807, and again in 1869, is separated from the nave by a low pointed arch. A small vestry, lighted by a window, where probably a north door formerly existed, was built in 1842. Originally this edifice had neither tower nor spire, though, if we may judge from an existing basement suitable for the former, such an erection appears to have been contemplated. Accordingly in 1843 the deficiency was supplied at a cost of about £200, defrayed by the rector and inhabitants. The tower, built of stone from the Merstham * By the will above mentioned the body of Isabel Covert was ordered "to be buried in the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul in Chalvedon, next the tomb of her husband." VOL. III. L L - o HISTORY OF SURREY. 258 quarries, is surmounted by a small shingled spire. There is one bell, which is hung in the church roof. The most remarkable monument here is a freestone tablet within a niche on the north side of the chancel, but to whom it belongs is unknown : it is fixed between pilasters, surmounted by a pediment, in the centre of which is the sun with a human face, thus surrounded: — R 1562 The inscription, though not divided into lines, is of rude rhythmical construction, viz. :— Good Redar, warne all men and women whil they be here to be ever good to the poore and nedy : the poore ever in thys worlde shah ye have. God grante us sumwhat in stoore, for to save the cry of the poore is extreme and very sore. God graunte us to be goode evermore in this worlde we run oure rase. God graunte us to be with Christ in tyme and space. Against the north wall, near the vestry door, is a white marble tablet with the follow ing inscription : — ¦ Near this marble lye the remains of Christian, the wife of John Home, a woman of great natural sagacity, sincerity of heart, and firmness of mind. She suffered shipwreck, and narrowly escaped with life in crossing the seas to her husband in Jamaica. She made a second attempt and arrived in that unhealthy island, where she lost a happy constitution. Her latter years proved her an uncommon pattern of exemplary patience, having long sustained with decency and temper aU the severities of a painfull and hopeless disease. She was born in Scotland 22nd July, 1710, and died 29th December, 1752. Just to thy worth, he whom thou most held clear, Inscribes thy tomb, and drops a tender tear. Here also are deposited the remains of the above-mentioned John Home. He died 21st April, 1770, aged 70 years. The love and esteem of all who knew him is the best testimony of his real character. The pulpit, hexagonal in form, is inscribed, " Patience Lambert, 1657." The font is an ancient square basin, with an .octagon shaft of Merstham freestone. The children of the poor are educated and clothed in a small free school, chiefly supported by the rector. In 1870 Chaldon Church was restored by public subscriptions, the rector bearing the cost of the work done in the chancel. During this restoration a remarkable and very interesting fresco, covering nearly the whole of the west wall, was brought to light. Strictly speaking, there are no gentlemen's seats in Chaldon. Large numbers of sheep are bred and grazed here. The entire number of acres in Chaldon parish is 1,643, and it comprises arable, meadow, wood, common, parsonage garden, &e. In 1865 the common lands of the parish were apportioned and enclosed, 1,000 acres being added to the glebe. In this parish, says Aubrey, " are two Freestone Quarries, from whose Meanders the Country people pretend to draw stone Avith their Oxen and Hurdles for above half a mile." * * " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 95. COULSDON. Z59 COULSDON. This parish is situated on the central chalk hills of Surrey, bordering on the north on Croydon, on the east on Sanderstead, on the south on Caterham, and on the west on Chipstead and Beddington. The land is partly arable, with wood lands, and open downs adapted for the pasturage of sheep, many of which are bred here. Formerly at Hartley Down there was a rabbit warren of 77 acres, but it was enclosed and converted into arable land in 1760. The entire number of acres in this parish is estimated at 4,313, of the ratable value of £31,000. Various ancient remains, some of them probably British, others Eoman, are still per ceptible in this parish. The Eoman road called the Stane Street passed through Coulsdon from Sussex, and the name of Wall Street is also mentioned in the Chertsey Ledger-book as in Coulsdon. At the entrance of Farthing Down are faint traces of three dykes, which extend about a quarter of a mile, and seem to have been thrown up as a barricade : some of these dykes were opened in 1871. On the hill ascending from Smitham Bottom are several small barrows, in one of which, opened about a hundred years ago, a complete skeleton is said to have been found.* There were two manors in the parish of Coulsdon at the time of the Doomsday surrey, which are thus described : — "The Abbey of Certesy holds Colesdone.f In the time of King Edward, it was assessed at 20 hides : now at 3| hides. The land is 10 carucates. One carucate is in demesne : and there are ten villains, and four cottars, with 6 carucates. There is a church. The wood yields three swine. In the time of King Edward it was valued at £6 : now at £7." {Whattington, or Waddon, in Coulsdon.) " The same Abbey holds Watendone, which in the time of King Edward was assessed at 20 hides ; but now at 5 hides. The arable land amounts to 8 carucates. There is 1 carucate in demesne ; and there are seventeen villains, and two cottars, with 5 carucates. * " At the entrance of Hooley-lane from Smitham-bottom a double bank and double ditch come down the hill from a httle wood on the left to the road in Hooley-lane, now (1805) a good deal of them has been removed, but enough still remains to shew them clearly ; on the top of the opposite hill they appear again, and are now the more visible from their ends having been lately cut off in making a new chalk-pit. On Riddles-down are similar banks and ditches descending from the top of the hill to the inclosures below, where, the land being arable, they are lost. Their direction points to those in Hooley-lane. This ditch seems to be that which in the Chertsey Ledger-book is called Newedich or Widedich." — Manning, Surrey, vol. ii. p. 448. t There are at least sixteen different ways of spelling the name of this parish, but that of Coulsdon has obtained for a long series of years. L L 2 26o HISTORY OF SURREY. There is a church. The wood yields six swine for pannage. In the time of King Edward it was valued at £6 : now at £7." Eoger de Horne, and Maud his wife, in 1269 purchased 161| acres of land in Cullesdon, Avhich Sir John Horne, Knt., in 1307 conveyed to trustees for the foundation of a chantry in Chertsey Abbey, and the support of a secular chaplain. In 1321 Eoger Horne, son of Sir John, released the same lands to Charles de Seggeford, Eector of Cullesdon, who con veyed them to the abbey for the purpose just mentioned. The estate was held of the manor of Coulsdon as one-eighth of a knight's fee. Lands also belonging to this manor, which had been given at different times and by different donors, were held of the abbot and convent of Chertsey by the master and brethren of the Hospital of St. Thomas of Aeon, in London, and by the abbot and convent of Waltham, in Essex. In 1538 the Abbot of Chertsey sold this manor, with those of Epsom, Sutton, and Horley, to Henry VIII., who in the same year granted them to Sir Nicholas Carew, of Beddington. The disgrace and death of this courtier, with the forfeiture of his estates, and their restoration to his family by Queen Mary, will be found related in our account of Beddington. Sir Francis Carew, son of Sir Nicholas, died unmarried, seized, inter alia, of this estate, which, according to a settlement made in 1609, came into the possession of Sir Eobert Darcy, descended from a sister of Sir Francis Carew. Sir Edward Darcy held Coulsdon in 1668, and probably sold it to Sir Eichard Mason, to whom it belonged in 1670. He left the estate by will, in 1685, to his wife and daughter, who in 1688 executed a joint conveyance to Sir Edward des Bouveries, an eminent Turkey merchant, Avhosc son and successor, Sir William, was created a Baronet in 1714. He had two sons, the elder of Avhom having died without issue, this property devolved on his brother, Jacob de Bouverie, who in 1747 was created Baron Longford and Viscount Folkestone. This nobleman was very active in the formation of the Society for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce, of which he was President in 1753 ; and he held the office until his death, which happened in 1761. His son and heir, William, made Earl of Eadnorin 1765, sold the manor and estate of Coulsdon, in 1782, to Thomas Byron, Esq., whose grandson, Edmund Byron, Esq., is the present possessor. The manor of Coulsdon includes the whole parish The metes and bounds of the manor are fully described in the Chertsey Ledger-book.* * "A Court RoU of this manor," observes Manning, "Surrey," vol. ii. p. 448, " contains many curious particulars, some are such as I do not remember to have seen in any other. Amongst them actions of trespass were here tried. In 13 Richard II. 1390, Richard Chapelet brought an action of trespass against William Lorkyn for taking away Katharine his wife, with divers goods and chattels to the value of £\0, to his damage of 100s. And he brought another action against the same for detaining a hog, value 3s. 4d. These disputes were perhaps amicably settled, for there is no further COULSDON. 26 r The chief residences in the parish are Coulsdon Court, in a fine wooded park close to the church, the seat of Edmund Byron, Esq., who is lord of the manor ; Hooley House, the residence of James Johnstone, Esq.; Wood Peace, supposed to be " La Wode, in Colesden" (mentioned in the Bishop's Eegister, Edindon, II. 37 a.), where, in 1357, Beter at Wode had the Bishop's license for an oratory in his house, now a farm in the occupation of Mr. Edward Henton ; and Portnall's Farm, the property of Sir Nicholas Carew in the time of Charles I., of Sir John Stanley in 1762, of John Hibbert, Esq., in 1808, and now in the occupation of Mr. Joseph Linger. Another place of note is Kenley House, which stands on the hill opposite Biddies Down. This is the property and residence of John Young, Esq. Whattington, Wodindon, or Waddington, described in the Doomsday Book, under the name of Watcndone, as a distinct manor, has long since been united with that of Coulsdon. Henry VIII. obtained of the Abbot of Chertsey, by Avay of exchange, a part of the estate here called Welcomb's and Lawrence's, and other lands iu Whattington, which he annexed to the honour of Hampton Court. In 1546 he granted this estate to Sir Eichard, Sir John, and William Gresham, in whose family it continued at least until the early part of the seventeenth century. It afterwards passed to several successive proprietors, until, in 1800, it was bought by Christopher Saville, Esq., which name he had assumed in place of that of Atkinson. Joel de Garston, and Philippa his wife, were owners of land in Coulsdon in 1269, and also of a tenement in Whatingdon called Garston. Gaeston Hall is the property of Edmund Byron, Esq., but has for a con siderable time been occupied by the kennel and hunting establishment of the subscrip tion pack of the Old Surrey Foxhounds. The benefice of Coulsdon is a rectory, in the deanery of Ewell, and in the patronage of the Archbishop of Canterbury. In 20 Edward I. (1292) it was valued at 25 marks, entry relating to them. In another action, damages were taxed at one bushel sprygg [a species of corn] price 7d.; in another at one bushel of oats price 3d. 15 Richard II. 1392, the tallage of the customary tenants this year was 20s.; the pannage of the hogs 2s. 5^d. 19 Richard II. 1396, a man being admitted to a copyhold found pledges for his residing in the house and doing no waste. Joh'es atte Brome refused to sell ale without shewing a sign, therefore he is in mercy. Jno. Prymme who held of the Lord a tenement and half a virgate of native land to him and his, has lemoved out of the lordship and refused to hold the land, whereupon there happened to the Lord for a heriot a heifer which remains in the Lord's hands. 14 Henry IV. 1413, tallage 2s. 6d. pannage 8|d. 3 Henry VI. 1425, John Syrede of Croydon, husbandman, espoused Agnes daughter of William Toller, one of the Lord's villans in gross, without hcense ; he came and paid 6s. 8d. John Combe, Prior of the Holy Cross of Reygate, who held a tenement and lands in Horlee by the Common Seal, is dead, whereupon happened to the Lord for a relief certain, after the death or cession of every Prior there, 10s. 9 Henry VI. 1431, Ahce, daughter of Richard Colgrymme, one of the Lord's villans in gross, remains at Chalvedon with Richard Aleyn without chivage, [i.e. money paid by a bondman for leave to go out of a manor], and without license : two others the same ; they are ordered to be seized. Thomas Basset came, and gives to the Lord for the chivage of Richard Colgrymme the Lord's bondman, for license to stay with him till Michaelmas next, 8d. Other niefs or bondmen ordered to be seized." z62 HISTORY OF SURREY and in the King's books at £21 16s. 5£d., paying for synodals 2s. Id., and for procura tions 7s. 7^d. Rectors of Coulsdon in and since 1 800 : — 1. — Henry Goodricke, B.D. Instituted in 1774. 2.— Henry John Todd, M.A. Instituted in 1807. 3. — j0hn Cults Lockwood. Instituted in 1820. 4.— -William Wood, B.D. Instituted in 1830. 5. — George Randolph. Instituted in 1841. 6. — Hon. George Wingfield Bourke, M.A. Instituted in 1866. 7 .—David Dale Stewart, M.A. Instituted in 1878. The church, dedicated to St. John the Evangelist, is built of stone and flint, and at the west end is an embattled tower surmounted by a small shingled spire, and containing five bells. It has a nave, and on each side a short aisle separated from the nave by two obtuse-pointed arches-: a similar arch divides the nave from the chancel. In the south wall of the chancel are two stone seats under pointed arches, separated by small round pillars standing clear from the wall. Eastward of these seats was a piscina (now filled up) under an arch of similar character. Formerly in the south aisle also was a stone seat under an obtuse-pointed arch, eastward from which Avere two other seats under niches, as in the chancel, one lower than the other ; and still farther to the east Avas a piscina under a similar arch. These haATe all been removed. Indeed, the church has been greatly altered since it was visited and described by Mr. Bray about 1805.* It was extensively repaired in 1807, and restored, with a due regard to the laAVS of church architecture, in 1854, at a cost of £1,000. A small organ was placed here in 1843. Of the ancient painted glass in the chancel window described by Aubrey, and vaguely referred to as of the time of King John, there are some slight remains. During the different repairs and alterations of the church many of the old monu ments appear to have been taken down and lost. On the south wall, however, is one well entitled to the attention of the curious. It consists of the figure of a woman under an arch, standing on a human skull, beneath which are bones banded together. On each side is a cherub. The woman's right hand is on her breast ; her left holds a globe ; she is looking up to heaven, in which appears a rising sun bearing the name Jehovah. From the several inscriptions about this monument, the principal of which are acrostic * Vide Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 454. SANDERSTEAD. 263 verses, it would seem that the person thus represented was Grace Eowed, wife of Thomas Wood, and that she died in 1635* Coulsdon parsonage is a handsome stone building, erected in 1841. There is a small National School in this parish for the children of the poor ; and also another, conducted on similar principles, for the Kenley and Caterham Junction district. The Eeedham Asylum for Fatherless Children, capable of containing 300 inmates, was established here in 1845. Whattington Chapel. — In a record of 13 Edward III. (a deed of John de Passele relating to Aldebury, in Merstham) John de Cattesfield is described as " parson of Wattington ; " and the presentations of the church of Coulsdon have sometimes been "cum Capella Whatingdon ; " but no institutions are found in the Bishops' Eegisters. The capella, or chapel, referred to escaped the first scramble in the time of Henry VIII. ; but in 2 Edward VI. it was granted, with other chapels, to Henry Polsted, Esq. The church of Coulsdon was included in that grant, but Mr. Polsted never obtained pos session of the latter. In the following year Wm. Worde was said to hold the chapel of Whattington in socage. Afterwards the building was converted into a barn, and about 1780 it was accidentally destroyed by fire. In the Doomsday Book it is noticed as a church. Caterham Junction, on the London, Brighton, and South Coast Eailway, is in this parish, about two miles north from the village. SANDERSTEAD. This parish is situated about three miles to the south-east of Croydon, by which, and that of Addington, it is bounded on the east : it adjoins Warlingham on the south, and Coulsdon on the west. The soil is calcareous, with a superficial stratum of gravel towards the south. Sanderstead contains, by computation, about 2,260 acres, chiefly arable, with 150 of down and 156 of wood, known as Sanderstead Wood. The downs are private property : there is no common. Sanderstead is thus described in the Doomsday survey: — " The Abbey of St. Peter of Winchester holds Sanderstede. In the time of King Edward it was assessed at 18 hides : now at 5 hides. The arable land amounts to 10 carucates. One is in demesne ; and there are twenty-one villains, and one cottar, with 8 carucates. There are four bondmen. The wood yields thirty swine. In the time of King Edward it was valued at 100s. : afterwards at £7 : uoav at £12 ; and yet it produces £15." * The inscriptions are given at length in Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 456. z64 HISTORY OF SURREY. This manor appears to have been given to the abbot and convent of Hyde, near Winchester, by Ethelfleda, the first wife of the Anglo-Saxon King Edgar, and mother of Edward the Martyr. In the reign of John or Henry III., Watkin Saunders, of Sanderstede, left this manor and the advowson of the church to the abbey of Hyde ; but, as the manor belonged to that monastery before the Norman Conquest, it may be concluded that Saunders held it on lease, and that he bequeathed only his interest in the property. Henry VIII. in 1539 granted to the convent of Hyde a license to alienate to Sir John Gresham the manors of Sandersted and Langhurst ; but at the dissolution of monasteries Sir John obtained from the King a grant, in 1540, of all the monastic possessions in this and some neighbouring parishes. He died in 1556, seized of the manor of Sandersted^ with the rectory and advowson, and the burgh of Langhurst, A^alued at £20 0s. 9^d. per annum, held with other estates of the Crown, in capite, by knight's service, as the twentieth part of a fee. This estate descended to Eichard Gresham, Esq., who in 1591 sold Sandersted, with Warlingham, to John Ownsted, Esq., of Addington, Sergeant of the Carriages to Queen Elizabeth. This transfer of property held by a feudal tenure having taken place without a royal license, the estates were seized by the Crown, and Mr. Ownsted was fined ; but this being paid, and license granted, the bargain was ratified, and in 1594 a release from Gresham to Ownsted was duly executed. Mr. Ownsted died without issue in 1600, having devised his estates in Surrey, after his widow's decease, to his cousin, Harman Attwood, and his two sisters.* Mr. Attwood, an attorney of Clifford's Inn, London, purchased the shares of the legatees, and thus became proprietor of Sanderstead as well as of Mr. OAvnsted's other estates. The property was held by the Atwoods until the death of John Atwood, Esq., in 1759, who, having no children, gave it to his nephew, Thomas Wigsell, attorney-at-law, New Inn, London. This gentleman died in 1778, having devised his estates to his nephew, Atwood Wigsell, who died unmarried ; and his brother and successor, the Eev. Thomas Wigsell, having no issue, settled the property on his sister Susanna for life, with remainder to Atwood Wigsell Taylor, on whom it devolved in 1807, and who, though a minor at the time, assumed the name and arms of Wigsell in pursuance of the will of the devisee. He died in 1821 : his son and successor, Atwood Dalton Wigsell, Esq., the late lord of the manor, died in 1878. His widow is the owner of nearly the whole of the parish. * From the monumental inscriptions in the church and churchyard it appears that the family of Mr. Atwood (whose name has been thus spelt for several generations) had long been settled here. In the adjoining parish of Coulsdon the name is found as early as the time of Edward II. SANDERSTEAD. 265 Purley. — Purley, or Pirley, is an estate in this parish formerly belonging to a family to whom it gave name. William de Pirelea, son of Osbert de Pirelea, had a grant from John, Abbot of Hide, of the moiety of a wood called Nithea, in the manor of Sander stead, and he purchased here other lands held under the convent. In 1332 Eeginald dc Pirle obtained a license from the Bishop of Winchester to have divine service cele brated in his oratory in Sanderstead, and in 1346 a similar license was granted to John de Purle. The estate remained with the Purleys until the reign of Edward IV., when it Avas divided into two parts, called respectively East and West Purley. East Purley. — In the time of Elizabeth this estate belonged to Sir Thomas Saunder, Eemembrancer of the Exchequer, who, on his marriage Avith the daughter of Sir Edmund Walsingham, settled it on her in dower. In 1580 their son and heir, Edmund Saunder, of Charhvood, conveyed the reversion of the estate (or manor) of Purley, alias East Purley, to Arnold King, of Beckenham, in Kent, who in the same year transferred it to Edmund Gresham ; and he is supposed to have sold it to Mr. Harman Attwood, sen., to Avhom it belonged in 1619. East Purley, or Purley Bury, is now in the occupation of John H. Smith, Esq. West Burley. — The family of Burley probably became extinct before the middle of the fifteenth century. In 1442 Margaret Kiriel and Johanna Frollebury, who may have been coheiresses of that family, granted the lands of North Eidle and West Purle to John Stopynton (Master of the Eolls) and John Kiriel ; and four years later Kiriel granted Pirle to Eichard Colkote and William Elenbrig. This estate subsequently belonged to the family of Ive, who held it as late as 1538, soon after which it was the property and residence of Henry Polsted, Avho, jointly Avith his son, in 1554 convej'ed it to Humphrey Cavell. It then passed in succession to several proprietors, and in the reign of Charles I. Balph Hawtrey, who died seized of it, left several sons, Avho conveyed it to Lewis Audeley, Esq. This gentleman, who had married the widow of Mr. Hawtrey, Avas a major in the army of the Barliament during the civil war, and Avas appointed by Oliver Cromwell a commissioner for the regulation of church benefices. It is said that through his interest the Eev. King Atwood, Eector of Sanderstead, was allowed to continue the service of the Established Church in his parish during the interregnum. In 1661 Major Audeley conveyed this estate to Harman Attwood the younger, who also obtained a further conveyance from the heirs of Balph Hawtrey ; thus he became possessed of both East and West Purley, as Avell as of Sanderstead. The whole property subsequently descended through the Wigsells to the late OAvner, Atwood Dalton Wigsell, Esq., but the divisional distinction of East and West Purley has been long forgotten. VOL. III. M M 266 HISTORY OF SURREY. Purley House was long in the occupation of Edward Bedwell Kemble, Esq., by whom it was much improved. It was formerly the residence of William Tooke, and whilst in his possession the Eev. John Horne (who afterwards assumed the name of Tooke) wrote here his celebrated philological work entitled " EILEA riTEPOENTA, or the Diversions of Burley," first published in octavo in 1786.* Sanderstead House, or Place, the manorial residence, is a spacious brick mansion, which stands in a park of between 50 and 60 acres in extent, adjoining the church, in which are some large and stately elms : behind the house is a fine cedar of Lebanon, f The living of Sanderstead is a rectory, valued in the Taxation of Pope Nicholas at £18 13s. 4d., and in the King's books at £7 9s. 8£d., paying 7s. 7£d. for procurations, and 2s. ld. for synodals. The advowson, Avhich anciently belonged to the Abbot of Hyde, near Winchester, was granted, with the manor, by Henry VIII., to Sir John Gresham ; and the patronage is now vested in the representative of the late Atwood Dalton Wigsell, Esq. Rectors of Sanderstead in and since 1800 : — 1. — John Courtney, M.A. 2.— Atwood Wigsell Wigsell, M.A. Died in 1821. 3.- — John Courtney, M.A. Instituted in 1821. 4. — John II. Randolph, M.D. Instituted in 1845. 5. — John Randolph, M.A. Instituted in 1866. The church, dedicated to All Saints, consists of nave and chancel, Avith north and south aisles extending the length of the nave only, separated by obtuse arches. It is sub stantially built Avith flint, having stone quoins and window-frames. At the west end is a slender toAver, rough cast, with two bells and a shingled spire. In 1832 the chancel Avas completely renovated by the Eev. John Courtney. The entrance is by a large south porch. In the east window, a triplet of the pointed form, were some slight remains of painted glass. This church Avas carefully restored in 1847, at a cost of £1,100. Schools have since been erected. * That work was afterwards enlarged into two vols, quarto, but never completed. In the introduction the author, with reference to his own pohtical opinions, has humorously alluded to Purley having been once the seat of Bradshaw, President of the High Court of Justice at the trial of Charles I. Mr. Tooke died at Wimbledon in 1812, and was buried at Eahng ; yet it had long been his intention to be interred in his own garden, and he had a vault and tombstone prepared for that purpose under his own direction : on the latter was engraven this epitaph : — John Horne Tooke, late Proprietor, and now Occupier, of this spot, was born in June, 1736 ; died in Aged years ; Contented and Grateful. t Many years ago a good house, caUed the Place House, was bought from Sir John Stonehouse by the Wigsells, by whom it was pulled down, and the ground laid into their park. SANDERSTEAD. 267 There are in this church many monuments and hatchments, together with various old brasses, some of which are in their original positions, and others detached. Those most entitled to notice are the following : — ¦ Against the north Avail is a monument of white marble, showing the effigy (under an arch) of a man in armour kneeling before a desk, on which lies an open book ; beneath is this inscription : — Here lieth the bodie of John Ownsted Esquyer [of Sanderstede-corte], servaunt to the most excellent Princess and our dread Soveraigne Queene Elizabeth, and Serjant of her Maties Carriage by ye space of 40 yeres. He died in ye 66 yere of his age on the 9th of August, 1600. At the east end of the south aisle is a low altar tomb, on which is the full-length statue, in white marble, of a lady in a winding-sheet lying upon a mat ; her head rests on a cushion, and her right hand is placed over the heart. The execution of the figure is unusually good, and from the inscription, which is in Latin, we learn that it Avas sculptured in memory of Mary, daughter of Matthew Bedell, Esq., and the wife in succession of Ealph Hawtrey and Lewis Audeley, Esqs., both of whom were owners of this manor. She died in 1655. Of several memorials for the mercantile family of Mellish, the most striking is a black marble tablet placed against the south wall, between two Corinthian columns of white marble. It bears a long Latin inscription to the memory of George Mellish, Esq., of London and Sanderstead, who died in 1654. Another inscription, on a white marble tablet affixed to a pillar on the north side of the church, records the death of Henry Mellish, merchant, of the Levant, " a person truely generous, who, having with great vertue and industrie indured the inconveniencies of several years travell in foreign countries, which contracted a lingering weakness on hisbody," died in 1677. On the north wall is a marble monument (surmounted by the arms of Mellish), presenting the bust of a young man with a large flowing wig. Beneath are the following somewhat outrageously laudatory lines: — Here lies a Youth who virtue's race had run, When scarce his yeares of manhood were begun : So swift a progress called for early rest, And plac'd his soul betimes among the blest. Another such our age despairs to find, Of charming person and accomplish'd mind, Where's manly sense and sweetest temper join'd But Fame's large volume would be fill'd to tell Those qualities in which he did excell ! Then, Reader, dropp a tear, and only say, Death saw the virtuous youth prepar'd to pay Great Nature's debt, and call'd before its day. M M 2 268 HISTORY OF SURREY. Amongst the monuments to the Wigsell family is a Avhite marble tablet in the chancel, inscribed to the memory of the Eev. Atwood Wigsell Wigsell, M.A., rector of this parish, who died in 1821. A tablet was erected here by his parishioners to the memory of the Eev. John Courtney, M.A., rector, who died in 1845. The surplus of that subscription proved sufficient for the entire renewal of the eastern window of the chancel, and for other improvements. In the south aisle is a mural monument to the memory of George Smith, Esq., of Selsdon, brother of Eobert, Lord Carrington, nearly forty years M.P., and a director of the East India Company. He died in 1836. In the churchyard are several stones to the memory of the AtAVOod family, who have a burial-place here, surrounded by an iron railing. Much stained by exposure to the weather is a coarse marble tomb in memory of " Thomas Knight, late Mason-in-Chief to the City of London, who dyed in 1680." Some quaint verses conclude the inscription. Nearly in the centre of the churchyard is a remarkably fine old yew-tree ; and there are two or three smaller ones, which, from their appearance, are yet more ancient. The parsonage is a plain brick building of the date of 1680. A Board School was erected here in 1875. Christ Church. — This church, the foundation stone of which was laid in 1877 by his Grace the Archbishop of Canterbury, has been erected from the design of Mr. James Fowler, architect, of Louth. The style is early decorated, the exterior of the edifice being of Kentish rag, Avith Bath stone dressings. Internally it consists of nave, chancel, north and south aisles, north transept, organ chamber, and vestry on the south side of the chancel, and a Avestern porch. In length it is nearly 100 feet, Avith a width of 25 feet inside. On entering the church by the western porch the introduction of colour into the walls is a very noticeable feature, red brick being the principal material throughout. The handsome reredos is of Caen stone, Avith an alabaster retable. On the south side of the chancel is an arched sedilia, and on the north side is the credence. The roofs, being Avithout breaks from beginning to end, give length and a dignified appearance to the building, and are interlaced with deal rafters and tie-beams. The seating throughout is of pitched pine, and arrangements have been made for the accommodation of 400 Avorshippers. Great Arariety is shown in the treatment of the window tracery, and also in the exquisite carving executed by Mr. Euddock, of London. The font was, with the hand some communion cloth, presented by Mrs. and Miss Heath and their friends. Selsdon. — Immediately adjoining Sanderstead -is Selsdon, which in the tenth century was the property of Duke Elfred, a Saxon nobleman, from whose will Mr. Manning derived the following particulars :—" Duke Elfred died seised of 32 hides in Sanderstede and in (0 o s WOODMANSTERNE. 269 Selesdune in Sanderstede, which he bequeathed, with the live stock and all the appur tenances, to Werburg his wife for life, and afterwards to Aldhryth his daughter and her issue, and if she had none, then to his next of kin by his father's side." * There can be no doubt of the ancient estate called Selesdune having formed part of the manor of Sanderstead long before the Doomsday survey ; and it. was most probably a portion of the IS hides given to the abbey of Hyde by Ethelfleda, queen of King Edgar, and mother of St. EdAvard, king and martyr, as stated in the list of the possessions of that house recorded in a manuscript in the British Museum quoted by Dugdale.f After the dissolution of monasteries in tho reign of Henry VIII., Sanderstead, with Selsdon, passed through some intermediate ownerships into the possession of John Ownsted, Esq., of Sanderstead Court, " Serjant of Carriages" to Queen Elizabeth, as stated in the inscription to his memory before noticed.^ At a subsequent period Selsdon became the property of the Bowyers, of whom Aubrey says that Christopher Bowyer, gent., a generous hospitable person, " was interred at the east end of the churchyard of Sanderstead," but had no memorial erected over his grave. At that time there Avas a small house belonging to the Bowyers on the site of the present mansion. After several intermediate transfers Selsdon came into the possession of Wm. Coles, Esq., by whom, in 1809, it was sold to George Smith, Esq., M.P., who, dying in 1836, was interred at Sanderstead.§ His estates were inherited by his eldest son, Geo. E. Smith, Esq., late M.P. for Midhurst, and subsequently for High Wycombe. Selsdon House is a handsome building, situated on an eminence about three miles south-east of Croydon, and commanding extensive views over Surrey and Kent. It Avas much enlarged by the late proprietor, and forms an example of the castellated Gothic character. A few years ago a conservatory Avas erected, from the designs of Messrs. Wyatt and Brandon, in the Elizabethan style. The gardens are arranged in natural terraces, and have also been much embellished and improved. In its general aspect the surrounding home scenery is singularly rural and retired. Selsdon House is now tenanted by the Bishop of Eochester, Dr. Thorold. WOODMANSTERNE. Woodmanston, or, as written by the parochial authorities, Woodmansterne, is bounded on the north and east by Carshalton, on the south by Chipstead, and on the west by Banstead. It is a small parish, partly consisting of downs, used for sheep-walks, and * Manning and Bray, « Surrey," vol. ii. p. 568. t " Monasticon," vol. ii. p. 336, new edit. 1819. X See ante, p. 267. c o . •>.•<. r § See ante, p. 208. ,.„ HISTORY OF SURREY. reported to be the highest land in the county, except Leith Hill* The soil is chalk, with much flint. It is described as follows in the Doomsday Book :— "Eichard (de Tonbridge) holds in demesne Odemerestor. Azor held it of King Edward ; and it Avas then assessed at 15 hides, and is now at the same, but never paid the geld [nunquam geldum dedit\. The arable land amounts to 3 carucates. There are 2 caru cates in the demesne ; and. one villain, and twelve cottars, Avith 3 carucates. There are eighteen bondmen: and a church ; and a mill at 20s. ; and 4 acres of meadow. The wood yields ten swine. In the time of King Edward it Avas valued at £10 ; subsequently at 100s. ; and now at £8." f Nigel de Mowbray, who lived in the reign of Henry I.} appears to have held this manor ; and he gave to the canons of St. Mary Overy, in Southwark, the church of Wood mansterne, with some others, which grant was confirmed by the Bishop of Winchester in 1174. The manor afterwards belonged to William de Ferrers, Earl of Derby, who died in 1254, leaving by his first wife Sibil, daughter of William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke, seven daughters, one of Avhom, Maud, was thrice married, and by her first husband, William de Kyme, she had two daughters, Mabel, the eldest of Avhom, was the wife of Fulk de Archiaco, Avho held the manor as her inheritance, and died seized of it in or before 1304. This estate afterwards became the subject of controversy between his descendants and their representatives and those of his wife's sister Cecily, AvidoAV of John Beau champ, of Hacche, who ultimately vindicated their claim to the property. Woodmansterne appears to have been transferred, together with the Beauchamp estate at Chipstead, to different families till about the middle of the sixteenth century ; and both were then held by the Scotts of Camberwell, avIio, hoAvever, had only a share of the Woodmansterne property. Woodmansterne seems to have passed, in the same manner as the Beauchamp estate at Chipstead, to John, third Lord Beauchamp (who died in 35 Edward III.), and afterwards to his tAvo sisters and coheiresses, Cecily, Avidow of Eichard Turberville, and * The site of the parsonage, a most lovely spot, though by no means the most elevated land in the parish, is said to- be on a level with the cross of St. Paul's Cathedral. t The designation in the record has been thought by some to be a mistake for Odemereston. The late Dr. Buchanan, rector of the parish for more than half a century, was, however, accustomed to observe that ode is the Anglo-Saxon wode, omitting the w; that mere is to this day a lake, or pond, in the north of England; that this parish, high as the ground is, has a great deal of wood, and severed ponds, one of which is called Mere Pond; that the first two syllables, therefore, give a plausible etymology for that part of the name ; but that the last wants explanation, unless tor may be taken (and. apparently it may) as a reference to the height of the ground. In the Taxation of Pope Nicholas the parish is styled A\Todemerethorne ; and in the Inqnisitiones post Mortem, in the time of Edward II., AVodemerston and AVodemere- thorne. (Manning, "Surrey," vol. ii. p. 460.) We are informed, however, that in a deed of 29 Edward I., extant among the papers of the Lambert family of this parish, the orthography is the same as that which is now locally used — • Woodmansterne. WOODMANSTERNE. 271 Eleanor, widow of Sir John Marriot. They appear to have conjointly conveyed their rights to Hugo Metche, knight of the shire in 11 Eichard II., and from him it passed to his daughter and heiress Joan, wife of John Norton, and eventually to her grand-daughter Joan, wife of John Skinner, of Eeigate, whose descendant, Elizabeth Skinner, was married to John Scott, of Camberwell, son of John Scott, a Baron of the Exchequer, grantee of Camberwell-Buckingham by Henry VIII. in 1521. John Scott died in 1558, seized of two-thirds of the manor of Woodmansterne. Eobert Harrys, or Harris, bad an interest in this manorial estate, and in 1608 Eichard Eliot, Esq., died seized of a purparty of the manor. The manor-house is a spacious and handsome dwelling, ar.d its park-like grounds are laid out with great taste. The whole manor afterwards became united by successive purchases in Sir Edmund Bowyer, Knt., of Camberwell, and passed to his nephew, a second Sir Edmund Bowyer, Knt., whose daughter Elizabeth was wife of Sir James Ashe. His daughter and heiress, Martha, Avas married to John Windham, Esq., of Earsham, Norfolk. They left issue a son, Joseph Windham, of Earsham, Camberwell, and Woodmansterne, a gentleman of considerable taste and accomplishments, who contributed largely to the letterpress of the "Ionian Antiquities" published by the Dilettanti Society, of which he was an active member. He married Charlotte, daughter of William, first Lord Walsingham, but died Avithout issue in 1810. Upon the death of Mr. Joseph Windham's widow, who occupied the manor-house until her death, the Woodmansterne property passed to the issue of his sister Anne, formerly married to Sir William Smijth, Bart., of Hill Hall, Essex, a descendant of Sir Thomas Smith, Secretary of State to Queen Elizabeth, Chancellor of tho Order of the Garter, and Provost of Eton College. Lady Smijth left three sons, Avho inherited this property in succession, viz. Sir Thomas, who succeeded and died in 1833 S.P. ; Sir John, a commander in the royal navy, who died in 1838 S.P. ; and Sir Edward, who, on acceding to the baronetcy, took the name of Bowyer in addition to that of Smijth. He sold the manor, with the manor-house and about 70 acres of land, to the Eev. John George Storie, Vicar of Camberwell, who resold it to Joseph Smith, Esq., who had previously purchased the Oaks, in this parish. The Lambert family had here a house with land, said to have passed in regular descent over since the Conquest. The house has been taken down, but the stone mantelpiece, which was in the oak-room, is preserved by the family. Stagbury. — The house and grounds called Stagbury, with an adjoining farm named Doghurst, were purchased in 1800 of the representatives of General Hyde by Thomas Walpole, Esq., eldest son of the Hon. Thomas Walpole (second son of the first Lord 2?2 HISTORY OF SURREY. Walpole, of Wolterton), who had formerly lived at Carshalton House, as mentioned under Carshalton in this work. Mr. Walpole, who was many years Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary at the court of Munich, retired from the diplomatic service, and purchased this property in 1800. He died in 1840, and was buried at Chipstead, the adjoining parish. His widow, Lady Margaret Walpole, daughter of John, second Earl of Egmont, resided here until her death in 1856. The Eev. Thomas Walpole, Honorary Canon of Winchester, and Eector of Alverstoke, Hants, is the present owner of Stagbury, and is an occasional resident there. The advowson of this living was given to the priory of St. Mary Overy, in Southwark, by Nigel de Mowbray, in the twelfth century; but it appears from the Valor of 20 Edward I. that the monks of Bee, in Normandy, derived a pension of 30s. from its revenues. It was then valued at 13 marks, and in the King's books at £11 7s. 6d., paying Is. 9d. for procurations and synodals. It is a rectory in the rural deanery of Ewell. The Eegisters commence in 1566, but are not complete. The patronage is vested in the Crown. Rectors of Woodmansterne in and since 1800 : — 1. — Gilbert Buchanan, LL.D. Instituted in 1784. 2. — C. Maitland Long. Instituted in Feb., 1834. 3. — Charles John Crawford, D.D. Instituted in May, 1834. 4. — Alfred Roberts, B.A. Instituted in 1871. The church, dedicated to St. Peter, was rebuilt in 1877-8, at a cost of £2,000 : it consists of a nave and chancel, with a tower, containing two bells, surmounted by a spire. Formerly the farmers in this parish had great difficulty in obtaining a sufficiency of manure, and their poorer lands were kept in sainfoin seven or eight years before being broken up for wheat, Avhich was then sown without dressing. For many years past, how ever, the principal landowners have, in despite of a heavy expense, obtained manure from the metropolis. Some of the downs were also broken up and put under tillage. Tue Oaks. — -This fine Elizabethan mansion, long the favourite hunting seat of the Earl of Derby, the founder of the " Oaks" and the "Derby " stakes at Epsom races, is in the parish of Woodmansterne, about two miles south from the village of Carshalton, and on the verge of Banstead Doavus. It stands in an extensive and well-wooded park, and took its name from a grove of ancient oaks, called " Lambert's Oaks," still presented in the demesne. The house in its original form was built by a society of gentlemen known as the " Hunters' Club," to whom the land was leased by Mr. Lambert, whose family had WOODMANSTERNE. 273 been owners for many generations. Intended as a place of festivity in the hunting season, it was occupied in succession by Mr. Simmons, Sir Thos. Gosling the banker, and General Burgoyne, by the latter of whom the house and grounds were much improved, and a large dining-room built. Burgoyne sold the lease to Edward, eleventh Earl of Derby, whose youngest daughter, the Lady Charlotte, he had secretly married when yet a subaltern. Whilst the Oaks belonged to that nobleman a splendid fite champetre was given here in 1774, in honour of the approaching nuptials of his grandson, Lord Stanley, with the Lady Betty Hamilton (the " Queen of the Oaks "), the only daughter of the Duke of Hamilton and Brandon and the Duchess of Argyll.* Lord Stanley, afterwards Earl of Derby, having acquired the fee-simple of this property in 1788, enclosed much of the common field, and made a plantation about two miles in circumference, the whole at this time comprising upwards of 180 acres. Lord Derby also added, at the west end, a large brick building with a circular tower at- each angle, a similar erection at the east end, but of less elevation, rendering the structure somewhat uniform. Lord Derby, who was remarkable for his hospitality, had a pack of staghounds here, and could accommodate his guests with upwards of fifty bedchambers. After the decease of the Earl in 1834 this estate was transferred to Sir Charles Grey, who in 1842 disposed of it by private contract to two gentlemen, Joseph Smith, Esq., and John Jones, Esq., who had married two sisters ; but the arrangement did not last long, * Lord Stanley was married at Argyll House, in London, in 1774 ; but the festival at the Oaks took place a fortnight previous to the wedding. On that occasion a magnificent pavilion of the Corinthian order was erected in the gardens from the designs of Robert Adam, Esq., architect (one of the builders of the Adelphi), which included a state room 120 feet long, with corresponding ball. and supper rooms, aU of which were superbly decorated. Among the invited company (who were arrayed in fancy dresses) were nearly three hundred of our principal nobihty ; and many thousand persons were admitted into the grounds to witness the entertainments, the report of which had excited great interest, this being the first fUe champitre given in this country. All the arrangements were conducted by General Burgoyne, who wrote a sylvan masque for this festival, the music of which was composed by Bartholomew, and was afterwards introduced at Drury Lane Theatre in Burgoyne's once popular drama, called The Maid of the Oaks. The rooms and gardens were at night most splendidly illuminated, and the trees were hung with festoons of beautiful flowers. Rural games were introduced on the principal lawn ; and dances, both serious and comic, were performed under the direction of the ballet- master of the Opera-house, independently of minuets and country dances by the assembled company. The lady for whose entertainment these joyous scenes had been devised died in 1797 ; and the Earl married secondly the celebrated actress, Miss Earren, who died in 1829. Two engravings, by Caldwell and C. Grignion, of the interiors of the bah and supper rooms in the pavilion were pubhshed in 1780. They give a fair idea of the gay dresses of the company, and of the rich effect of the architectural arrangements and decorations. A detailed description of the fete was pubhshed in the Gentleman's Magazine for June, 1774 ; and a more brief account in the Annual Register for the same year. During the American war General Burgoyne led the army which was to penetrate from Canada into the revolted provinces. He experienced serious reverses, and was obhged to surrender his entire force to the Americans at Saratoga. Being disgusted with his reception frcm Government after his return from America, he resigned his mihtary employments. The Maid of the Oaks was not the only dramatic production of his pen : he wrote also The Heiress, and Richard, Coeur de Lion, and converted Beaumont and Fletcher's Custom of the Country into The Lord of the Manor. He died suddenly in 1792, and was interred in the cloisters of AVestrninster Abbey. VOL. III. N N 274 HISTORY OF SURREY. and Mr. Smith, who acquired the whole property, made very considerable interior altera tions, and greatly improved the house. He continued residing there until 1877, when he offered the Oaks for sale and removed to London, where he died not long after. The Oaks was bought by the Earl of Eosebery. BEDDINGTON. This parish is bounded on the north by Mitcham, on the east by Croydon, on the south by Coulsdon and Woodmansterne, and on the west by Carshalton. It contains about 3,930 acres of land, of the ratable value of £17,620. In the Conqueror's time there were 25 plough lands in the two manors noticed under Beddingtone in the Doomsday Book, and which appear to correspond with those afterwards called Home- Beddington, or West Court, and Huscarle's Manor. Within this parish, also, are the manor of Wallington, which gave name to the hundred, and the reputed manors of Bandon, or Forester's, Freres, and the Archbishop of Nazareth's.* Within this parish, and especially at Woodcote, urns and other relics, apparently of Eoman origin, have been found. The ancient Stane Street, crossing this county from south to north, appears to have passed by Woodcote, and is supposed by Talbot, the commentator on the " Itinerary " of Antoninus, to have been the site of the station called Noviomagus ;f and Camden and other learned antiquaries have advanced the same opinion. Salmon states that foundations of buildings have been discovered, and urns, spear-heads, and other ancient remains disinterred both at Beddington and Wallington. Manor oe Home-Beddington. — " Eobert de Watevile holds of Eichard [de Tonbridge] Beddingtone, which Azor held of King Edward. It was then assessed at 25 hides : now at 3 hides. The arable land consists of 6 carucates. One carucate is in demesne ; and there are sixteen villains, and fourteen cottars, with 5 carucates. There is a church ; and five bondmen ; and two mills at 40s. ; and 24 acres of meadow. The wood yields five swine. Fifte.en houses in London pertain to this manor, paying 12s. 4d. In the time of King Edward it was valued at £10, and the same at present; but when received, at £6." The De Wateviles, by purchase or otherwise, subsequently obtained full possession of * In 26 Edward III. the Archbishop of Nazareth demised " his manor of Beddington " to John Burgeys, citizen of London, for thirteen years ; but Manning, with much probability, considers that this was nothing more than a house belonging to the Archbishop, the houses of the rehgious [ecclesiastics] being at that time frequently called manors. ("Surrey," vol. ii. p. 528.) t See Leland, " Itinerary," vol. hi. pp. 136, 157. BEDDINGTON. 27s this manor, and held it immediately of the Crown by the service of rendering annually a wooden crossbow. In 1159 Ingelram de Funteneys [Fontibus] and Sibyl de Watevile, sister of William de Watevile and wife of Alan Pirot, gave the advowson of the church of Beddington to the priory of Bermondsey.* In 1196 the estate had fallen into the hands of the King, for in that year the Sheriff of Surrey rendered an account of £8 for the firm of Bedinton, which had belonged to Ingelram de Fontibus ; and from the Testa de Nevill we find that Eichard I. gave 10s. rent in Beddington to William de Ess. His son, Eustace de Ess, died in 1205, and the land again reverted to the Crown. Henry III. in 1245 granted to Eaymund de Laik, or Lucas, and his heirs, all the lands in Beddington formerly held by the family of Eys, or Ess, to hold by the service of presenting a wooden bow at Pentecost, f Isabella, daughter and heiress of Eaymund de Laik, married Eeginald Gacelin, and, dying in 1262, left a son called John de Eoges, or Eogers, whose legitimacy was disputed ; but afterwards, in 1287, he paid 20s. for the relief of the lands held by Isabel of the King in capite at the time of her decease.- He died without issue in 1302, when the manor escheated to the King, Edward I., who granted it to Thomas Corbet, his valet {valectus suits), to hold on the same terms as the preceding tenants. The estate remained in the possession of the Corbets until 12 Edward III., when Thomas de Merle, who had probably bought it of the Corbet family, obtained the King's license to hold it under the same conditions. Some irregularities in the transfer of the manor (first to Thomas de Brayton, clerk, and secondly to Eichard de Wyloghby, or Willoughby, sen.) soon after took place; and in 1345 the King granted his pardon for an alienation without license, on the payment of a fine of 100s. Sir Eichard de Willoughby had an only daughter, Lucy, married first to Sir Thomas Huscarle, and afterwards to Nicholas Carreu, to the latter of whom, and his heirs, the fee-simple of this manor was alienated by his wife's father about 1360, it being then of the annual value of 100s. Shortly after Carreu purchased the other manor called Huscarle's ; hence both manors became consolidated, and, with a short interval, were held by the Carew family till the present century. Manor oe Beddington-Huscarle. — This manor is thus described in the Doomsday Book : — " Milo Crispin holds Beddingtone, and William the son of Turold holds it of him Ulf held it of King Edward ; and it was then assessed at 25 hides ; now at 3 only. There are 6 carucates of arable land. One is in demesne ; and thirteen villains, and thirteen cottars have 6 carucates. There is one bondman, and two mills at 35s., and 20 acres of meadow. The wood yields five hogs. In the time of King Edward the manor was valued * Dugdale, "Monasticon," vol. v. p. 97. + Cart. Antiq. K. K. 7, 29 Hen. III. in Harl. MS. No. 85. N N 2 2?6 HISTORY OF SURREY. at £10 ; afterwards at £6 ; and now at £9 10s. Twenty-one houses (13 in London, and 8 in Sudwerche, Southwark) belonging to this manor, which paid 12s., have been detached, and are held by Earl Eoger [de Montgomery]." This manor appears to have been held by the Huscarles as early as the reign of King John, who granted to Dionysius, his chaplain, land at Bedington which had belonged to William Huscarle. The Lady Beatrice Huscarle was in possession in 1321, and in 1348 Bishop Edindon granted a license to Sir Thomas Huscarle, and Lucy his wife, to have a private chapel in their manor-house at Beddington. In the following year it was found that Simon at Woodcote held a toft and 6 acres of land here, from Thomas de Huscarle, by the service of one rose, of the value of 3s. per annum. After the decease of Sir Thomas, his relict, as before stated, married Nicholas de Carreu, who subsequently obtained from the several coheirs of Sir Thomas Huscarle releases of all their respective claims and rights as to this property. Nicholas de Carew in 1362 was one of the knights of the shire for Surrey, and in 1372 he was made Keeper of the Privy Seal by Edward III., who likewise appointed him one of his executors. He died in 1391, seized of the manors of Home-Beddington and Huscarles, and several other manors in the neighbouring parishes.* Nicholas, his son and heir, was Sheriff of Surrey in 15 Eichard II., and again in 2 Henry IV. : he also represented this county in several Barliaments. In 9 Henry V. he made a settlement of his estates, from which it appears that he had manors and possessions in at least eighteen different parishes in Surrey. f Dying in 1432, he bequeathed this manor to Nicholas, his second son (his eldest having previously deceased), Sheriff of Surrey in 19 Henry VI. He married Margaret, daughter of Sir Eoger Fienes, Knt., by whom he had two sons, Nicholas and James, of whom the former succeeded bim in 1458. He died in 1466, leaving an only son, a minor, after whose decease without issue this property descended to Eichard Carew, only son of the above James, by his wife Eleanor, a daughter of Thomas, Lord Hoo and Hastings, and of his second wife Eleanor, daughter of Leonard, Lord Welles, of which family her issue were also coheirs. Eichard Carew was made a Knight Banneret at the battle of Blackheath in 1497, in 1501 he was Sheriff of Surrey, and was Lieutenant of Calais in the reigns of Henry VII. and Henry VIII. He officiated as sewer * By his will, dated at Beddington in 1387, he directed that his body should be interred between the grave of his brother John and the south door of the Church of St. Mary at Beddington ; and he devised considerable legacies to that church, and for other religious purposes. He gave to his daughter, Margaret Turbevyle, 100 marks ; to his daughter Lucie, Prioress of Roosparre [Rusper, in Sussex], ,£10 ; to Joan Huscarle, a nun, 40s. ; leaving the residue of his property between his son Nicholas de Carru and Nicholas de Mockyng. t Vide Rot. Claus. 9 Henry V. m. 6. BEDDINGTON. 277 at the enthronisation of Archbishop Warham in 1504-5, and, dying in 1520, was interred in the church at Beddington. Sir Nicholas Carew, his son and heir, succeeded his father in the lieutenancy of Calais. He became a great favourite with Henry VIII., who appointed him one of the Gentlemen of his Privy Chamber, and he was for several years the almost constant companion of the King, " and a partaker with him in all justs, tournaments, masques, and other diversions of the same kind, with which that reign abounded," and which are so minutely described in Hall's Chronicle.* In 1523 he was made Master of the Horse, and afterwards a Knight of the Garter. Notwithstanding his great obligations to his master, he appears to have engaged in a conspiracy with the Marquis of Exeter ; Henry Pole, Lord Montacute ; Sir Edward Neville, and other zealous Catholics, to overthrow his government, and seat Cardinal Pole upon the throne. The plot was discovered through the agency of Sir Geoffrey Pole, Lord Montacute's brother, and all the conspirators were executed. Sir Nicholas himself was beheaded on Tower Hill, in March, 1539, when, according to Holinshed, he made " a godly confession, both of his fault and superstitious faith." He was buried in St. Botolph's, Aldersgate, where there is a small monument inscribed with his name. The forfeited estates of Sir Nicholas were seized by the Crown, and the custody of the manor-house at Beddington was intrusted to Sir Michael Stanhope.! The manor was subsequently granted for life to Walter Gorges, who died in 1553, and in the same year the King regranted this aud other estates, the property of the Carews, to Thomas, Lord D'Arcy, of Chiche, then Lord Chamberlain, in exchange for manors and lands in Essex, which he had previously bestowed upon that nobleman. Sir Francis Carew, only son of Sir Nicholas by Elizabeth his wife, daughter of Sir Thomas Brian, Knt., was in the service of Queen Mary, by whose grant he obtained the restitution of his ancestral inheritance, and who had taken a reconveyance from Lord D'Arcy of all the Carew estates given to him by her brother. For greater security, how ever, Sir Francis himself took a new conveyance, by purchase from that nobleman, under * The foUowing anecdote relating to Sir Nicholas Carew is given by Fuller : — " Tradition in this family reporteth, how King Henry, then at bowls, gave this Knight opprobrious Language, betwixt jest and earnest, to which the other returned an Answer more true than discretionary, as more consulting therein his own Animosity than Allegiance. The King, who in this kind would give and not take, being no Good Fellow in tart Repartees, was so highly offended thereat, that Sir Nicholas fell from the top of his Favour to the bottom of his Displeasure, and was bruised to Death thereby. This was the true cause of his Execution, though in our Chronicles all is scored on his complying in a Plot with Henry, marquess of Exeter, and Henry, Lord Montague." — Worthies, vol. ii. p. 379, edit. 1811. t Among the Harleian MSS. is a volume containing an inventory of the wardrobe of Henry VIII., including " The Guarderobe at the Mannour of Bedington in the Countie of Surrey, iu the Charge of Sir Michael Stanhopp, Knight, Keaper of the same House." In this inventory is mentioned a press, made with drawers, full of Evidences, Court Rolls, and other writings, " as weh concerning Sir Nicholas Carew, his landes, as other men's landes." (Vide Harleian MSS. No. 1419, art. 30, fol. 373.) 278 HISTORY OF SURREY. a license granted in 2 and 3 of Philip and Mary. After being thus secured in the full possession of his estate, this gentleman erected at Beddington a magnificent mansion, in which he was twice visited by Queen Elizabeth, in 1599 and 1600. He died unmarried in 1611, having bequeathed this and other estates to Sir Nicholas Throckmorton, the youngest son of his sister Anne, whom he had adopted, and who assumed the name and arms of Carew. He died in 1644 ; and his son and successor, Sir Francis Carew, K.B., died in 1649. From that time the inheritance descended regularly to Sir Nicholas Carew, created a Baronet in 1714, and elected a knight of the shire for Surrey in 1722. He died in 1726-7, and was succeeded by his grandson, Sir Nicholas Hacket Carew, Bart., whose decease occurred in 1762. By his will he devised all his estates to Mr. William Pellatt, an attorney, in trust, to permit his only surviving daughter Catherine to hold the manor of Beddington for life, and to pay her the net amount of the rents, if she continued single ; but on her death or marriage the estate was to devolve on the eldest and other sons of his cousin, Dr. John Fountain, Dean of York, in tail male ; remainder to the eldest son of his kinsman, William Farrer, in tail male ; remainder to the eldest son of Eichard Gee, Esq., of Orpington, in Kent, descended from Bhilippa Carew, an aunt of Sir Nicholas Carew, Bart., mentioned above. Miss Catherine Carew died unmarried in 1769, and the only son of the Dean of York having died in 1780, before he had attained the age of twenty-five, at which he was to inherit, the estate came into the possession of Eichard Gee, Esq., who in 1780 obtained an Act of Parliament, autho rising him to take the name and arms of the family of Carew.* The Manor of Wallington.— This manor, called Waleton in the Doomsday Book, gave name to the hundred, and is thus described :— " The King holds Waleton in demesne. It was assessed at 11 hides in the time of King Edward, as at present. The arable land consists of 11 carucates, one of which is in demesne ; and there are fifteen villains, and fourteen bordars, with 10 carucates. There are three bondmen ; and two mills, at 30s. ; and 8 acres of meadow. The wood belonging to it is in Kent. Eichard de Tonbridge holds of this manor 1 virgate, with the wood, whence he removed a countryman, who dwelt there. Now it yields to the Sheriff 10s. a year. The whole manor, in the time of King Edward, was valued at £15 ; now at £10." It is stated in the Testa de Nevill that Henry II. granted a part of the manor of Waletun, in the hundred of Waletun (or Wallington), to Maurice de Creon, who gave it, with his daughter, to Guy de la Val ; and he, according to Manning, having joined the t Manning, " Surrey," vol. h. p. 527. See also the pedigree of Carew in the same volume. Further particulars of the descent will be annexed to the account of the manor-house. BEDDINGTON. 279 barons in the war against King John,* his estate was seized by the officers of the Crown, and John Fitz-Lucy, who subsequently obtained a grant of it, incurred a forfeiture by remaining in Normandy : the King then gave it to Eustace de Curtenay, or Courtenay. Passing successively through the families of Salinis, de la Lynde, Lodelawe, Dymock, Harrington, Carew, Spencer, Bowyer, and Spencer, this estate was afterwards conveyed to William Bridges, Esq., Surveyor General of the Ordnance, and he, dying in 1714, devised it to his sister, Elizabeth Bridges, spinster, who resided at Wallington House. She died in 1745, having by her will, dated in 1743, bequeathed this property to her great-nephew, Bridges Baldwin, Esq. (afterwards knighted), with remainders, on failure of his issue male, to two other great-nephews, in consequence of which the estate descended to William Bridges, Esq., who, dying in 1805, devised it to Brook Bridges, Esq. His son John afterwards possessed the property, which subsequently passed to Nathaniel Bridges, Esq., the present owner. The Manor of Bandon. — But few notices of this manor are found in ancient records. Lysons says, " It probably took its name from Margery de Bandon, or some one of that name, whose property it was; her land is mentioned in an old rental of Eeginald Forester's." It is more probable, however, that the family to which this lady belonged was named from the manor, over which seignorial jurisdiction was claimed by Edmund, Earl of Cornwall, in 1279. In 3 Edward II. Simon Stowe appears to have had property here, for in that year he obtained a writ ad quod Damnum for the brethren of the Hospital of St. Thomas, Southwark, relative to the transfer of a messuage and lands in Bedyngton, Bandon, and other places in Surrey. Early in the reign of Edward III. Eeginald le Forester held a messuage and 80 acres of land in Bandon and Beddington of Thomas Corbet, as of his manor of Beddington, by the service of 8s. 4d. a year, and the grant was confirmed by letters-patent dated 13 Edward III. The manor of Bandon, together with Beddington, at length came into the possession of the Carew family, and Nicholas Carru, in 1448, obtained a grant of the leet of Bandon and Beddington, at an annual rent of 6s. 8d. Beddington House, with other estates of the Carews, in recent years passed to the Bridges family; and the Eev. Alexander H. Bridges, son * Banks (" Dormant and Extinct Baronage," vol. i. p. 66), probably on the authority of Dugdale, says, " This Guy, who married the daughter of Maurice de Creon, died in the first of John; and was succeeded by Gilbert de la Val, said to have been in arms against King John, in the 17th of his reign." Matt. Paris (" Hist. Angl." p. 252) mentions Gilbert de la Val as one of the twenty-five barons appointed to secure the performance of the stipulations contained in the Great Charter and the Forest Charter extorted from King John, and he appears to have been a prominent member of the confederacy against that tyrannical prince. Gilbert de la Val therefore, who may have been the brother or nephew of Guy, must have been the baron whose estate at Waletun was seised by King John, and thus permanently alienated. HISTORY OF SURREY. 280of the late Sir Henry Bridges, is the present lord of the manor and patron of the advowson.* The living of Beddington is a rectory in the deanery of Ewell, valued in the Taxa tion of Pope Nicholas at 40 marks, from which was deducted 100s. payable to the Prior of Bermondsey, to whom the advowson had been given by Sibylla de Wateville and Ingram de Fountenays, the owners of the manor, in 1159 ; and in 1530 Sir Nicholas Carew presented to the rectory, on demise from the abbot and convent. On the subse quent dissolution of the monastery and the attainder of Carew, the patronage became vested in the Crown; but Sir Francis Carew, having procured a reversal of his father's attainder and recovered the family estates, had this advowson also, which remained annexed to the manor, and is now held by the Eev. Alexander H. Bridges, as above mentioned. In the King's books the value of the living is stated at £13 ,16s. 8d., paying for synodals 9s. 8^d.t In 1841 the tithes were commuted for a rent-charge of £1,212 per annum. The Eegisters commence with 1538. Among the entries is the following: — * Of the other manors, or reputed manors, in this parish but httle information can be obtained. That called Forester's may have been so designated from Reginald le Forester, who held lands in Bandon and Beddington in 3 Edward III., in which year he probably died. Reginald le Forester, who had a license for an oratory in his manor- house in the parish of Beddington in 1347, may have been the son of this gentleman. - The manor appears, at length, to have been united with that of Bandon ; for Nicholas Carew, Esq., who died in 1467, is stated, in the Inquisitiones post Mortem for 6 Edward IV, to have been seized, inter alia, of the manor of Bandon, alias Forsters. The estate here belonging to the brethren of the Hospital of St. Thomas, Southwark, already noticed in the account of Bandon, was styled the manor of the Freres, Friars, or Brethren. In the reign of Richard II. it was granted to Nicholas Carreu in exchange for some lands at Lambeth, as appears from the Patent Rolls of the second year of that king. The prior and convent of Merton held lands and tenements in Beddington, Bandon, and Wallington in the reign of Edward III. It appears, from the valuation of ecclesiastical property made in 32 Henry VIII., that there was a fee-farm rent of 6s. 8d. from lands at Bedyngton, £2 from Cross lands in Wallyngton, and 2s. from a mill there, belonging to the priory at its dissolution. (Dugdale, " Monast." vol. vi. p. 248.) + In 1454 a commission was issued to inquire into the value of this rectory, and in the certificate returned to the bishop (Waynflete) was a specific statement both of its revenues and its reprises, or deductions. We gather from it that at the time wheat was 5s. a quarter, barley 3s. a quarter, and oats 20d. a quarter ; that the value of a lamb was 6d., and a fleece of wool 2jd. ; the tithe of the mill was 16s. 8d. ; that of the rabbits and doves of Nicholas Carew 13s. 4d. ; and of the rabbits of Synclo ' (probably Saintlow) 2s. : the offerings amounted to 18s. The total of the revenues was ,£21 2s. 3d. ; and that of reprises— which included the charges for collecting, carrying, and threshing the corn, for collecting the wool and lambs, for bread, wine, frankincense, and wax (3s. 4d.), for annual repairs (£\), and the Abbot of Bermondsey's pension (£5)— amounted to £11 15s. 4£d. (Lysons, "Environs," vol. i. pp. 62, 63; from Regist. Winton.) A distinct portion of the revenues of this hving, forming a sinecure benefice, was detached from it at an early period. the patronage of which was annexed to the manor of Beddington-Huscarle. Its emoluments hi 1473, estimated at 40s. net, principally arose from the tithes of 200 acres of land, called Huscarles Feod (fee), on the north side of the church, and from a house and 20 acres of land on the south side. The Rev. Charles Carew, who held the superior rectory of Beddington from 1530 to 1540, was also the portionist, or holder, of this free benefice. After his attainder and execution as an accomplice in the plot for which his relation (Sir Nicholas Carew) suffered, the King, in 1540, presented this sinecure to Richard Benese, who is the last portionist whose name occurs in the Registers of the diocese. He had been a canon of Merton Priory, and was the author of a treatise on the Mensuration of Land, of which an early edition was printed in St. Thomas's Hospital, Southwark. In the King's books this portion is valued at £8 12s. ld. : it accounted for 2 marks to Bermondsey Abbey. M J Stalling (18 SO.) LOUDON, VIRTUE & C? limited. BEDDINGTON. 281 "William Stuart, commonly called Old Seott, aged one hundred and ten years and two months, was buried Jan. 31, 1704-5." Rectors of Beddington in and since 1800 : — 1. — John Bromfield Ferrers, M.A. Instituted in 1783 ; died in 1841. 2. — James Hamilton, M.A. Instituted in 1841. 3.— William Marsh, D.D. Instituted in 1860; died in 1864. 4. — Alexander Henry Bridges, M.A. Instituted in 1864. Among the rectors of Beddington was John Leng, D.D., who in 1723 was made Bishop of Norwich, and held this living, in commendam, until his death in 1727. This prelate preached the sermons at Boyle's Lecture in Bow Church in 1719, afterwards published : he likewise published other sermons, and was the editor of two Comedies of Aristophanes, and of the Comedies of Terence. He was buried at St. Margaret's, Westminster. Beddington Church is mentioned in the Doomsday Book, but no part of the present structure can be referred to the remote era of that record. It would seem, indeed, from the style of the architecture, to have been erected during the reign of Eichard II. — a surmise receiving corroboration from a bequest made in 1390 by Nicholas de Carreu, the first lord of Beddington of that name, of £20 " to the building of the church." This edifice is dedicated to St. Mary, and consists of nave and aisles, a chancel, and at the west end a massive tower containing ten bells, together with a large south porch, and a mortuary chapel attached to the chancel, and opening into it, on the south side, formerly belonging to the Carew family, but recently sold to H. Tritton, Esq. The tower, which is supported by strong buttresses at the angles, was partly rebuilt on the old plan about 1829, at an expense of £350 ; and in 1839 a rate (amounting to £160) was granted by the parish for repairing the roof and interior of the church. In 1852 the church was again restored, and a north aisle built, at a cost of £3,000. In 1869 an organ chamber and vestry were added, the chancel entirely restored, and numerous other improvements made, at a further expenditure of about £10,000.* * The following particulars respecting the charities in this parish are inscribed in this church :— " Donations and Bequests to the parish of Beddington and Walhngton. " December 5th, 1825, Mrs. Ann Paston Gee bequeathed by her Wih £1,000, to be invested hi the funds, the interest thereof to be given to the poor on Christmas eve, in every year." The interest (£30) is expended in clothing, &c, which is distributed among the poor by the rector and churchwardens. 1625. " Henry Smith, by will, bequeathed £2 per year to the poor of Beddington." Expended on the aged and infirm, and in apprenticing poor children. " February 6th, 1830, John Bristow, Esq., £100 interest." " Several allotments of land were awarded by the Commissioners under the Beddington Enclosure Act [52 Geo. III. VOL. III. O O 282 HISTORY OF SURREY. This church contains a pulpit of Elizabethan workmanship, a fine old oak chancel screen, some curious old wooden stalls having turn-up seats, or miseries, ornamented with foliage, shields, a female head in a reticulated head-dress, and other carvings.* The entrance doorway to the tower is formed by a high-pointed arch, over which is a very large and handsome window, comprising three tiers of trefoil-headed lights progressively rising to the apex. There is an ancient font of a square form, but with a circular basin : it is supported by a central and four smaller columns standing on a low plinth. In the north aisle is a painting in thirteen panels representing the Day of Judgment. The gallant Admiral Sir John Leake, in 1710, whilst residing in this parish, gave to the church an altar-piece, with the Decalogue, the Creed, &c. On the north side, opposite the pulpit, is the handsome monument of Nicholas Carew, Esq. (second son of Sir Nicholas Carew, Bart.), who died in 1721-22, and his wife Ann, daughter of Sir Stephen Lennard, Bart., of Wickham Court, in Kent : she died in 1722, and was buried here in the same vault with her husband. It is of Avhite marble, and consists of a large inscribed tablet in Latin, surrounded by pendent drapery, and crowned by a helmet and shield of arms, viz. — Carew, impaling or, on a fess gu. three fleurs-de-lis of the field, for Lennard. Against the south wall of the chancel is affixed a large upright monument of an architec tural kind, having Corinthian pilasters at the sides, and a cornice above, upon Avhich, between two flaming urns, are a shield of arms, crest, and mantling. The inscription is in Latin, and records the piety and virtues of Elizabeth, wife of Wm. Chapman, gent. : she died in 1718. In the pavement, immediately in front of the altar steps, is a slab of black marble, 9 feet in length and 4 feet in breadth, inlaid with full-length brasses of Nicholas Carreu (the second of that name who settled at Beddington), and Isabella his first wife, who died many years before him. They are standing under a rich Gothic canopy, as shown in the opposite woodcut. The inscription is as follows : — / In gvarift ct ittiscricortiit g.*'i hie iaani nrrprrra ^tirholai (Knrrca, (xRAVESTOVE a 0F 1 avmtgrri, rt g'ni quonoam tains hill., dsabrllc uxoris sur, rt Nicholas Carueu< "acitotiw fllii wrtt'bcm ; qui i-iaibrin ^tictalas stnex rt plcnns bur' A^D | in part qaicbit .quarto ite mensis <§*pt*mbris, gltmo iomtni. v Jtt cue xxxii". c. 208], for the use of the poor. They also awarded a piece of land, called Church Mead, to Beddington Church, 1 acre and 29 perches." " Mrs. Ann Paston Gee gave a piece of land called Cats Brains, containing 3 acres and 5 perches, in exchange for cottages and land on Chats Hill, also belonging to Beddington Church." " Wilham Bridges, Esq., gave £200, 3 per cent. Consolidated Bank Annuities, to the poor of the hamlet of WaUing ton, on account of the enclosure of a piece of land in the same hamlet." * It seems probable that the above stalls were originally provided for the " four fit chaplains " which Sir Nicholas- de Carreu, in his will (before noticed) dated in 1387, and proved at Croydon in Sept., 1390, directs " should be found, one of them for ever, and the others for five years, to pray for his soul, and all Christian souls, in the church of Bedding ton." — Lambeth Register, Courtney, f.' 147, b. BEDDINGTON. 283 At the corners were the symbols of the evangelists, and above and below the canopy these arms, viz. — Or, three lions passant, sab. for Carew ; and Carew imp. gu. two lions passant, arg. for Delamar. In the Carew Chapel, partly separated from the chancel by a wooden screen, and having a distinct entrance, are several interesting monuments, the oldest being that of the founder, Sir Eichard Carew, Knight Banneret, Go vernor of Calais, and his wife Malyn, or Magdalen, who, according to the Carew pedigree in Lysons's " Environs," was a daughter of Sir Kobert Oxen- bridge, Knt. It consists of an altar tomb of freestone, surmounted by a kind of framework, ornamented with vine-branches, armorial bearings, &c, and enclosing a recessed elliptical arch en riched with Gothic panelling. On the tomb were formerly small brasses of a knight in armour and his lady, now gone, and along the verge an inscription in black letter, of which the latter part only remains, viz. — ivhiche Sr Richard decessyd the xxiii day of May, Anno dni M° Ve xx ; Sf the said dame Malyn dyed y" day of An" M° Vexx . Over this monument is an upright memorial of much elegance for Sir Nicholas Carew, Bart., who died in 1742, his relict Catherine, and their daughter of the same name ; also of Eichard Gee, of Orpington in Kent, Esq., who took the name of Carew on succeeding to the Beddington property in 1780, and died in 1816. It consists of a framed tablet, surmounted by a beautifully wrought canopy, ornamented with vine-branches, &c, in open-work sculpture, above which is the emblem of the Holy Spirit. Over the inscription are the arms, supporters, and crest of the CareAV family in relief. The whole is of pure white marble on a dove-coloured background, and was executed by Westmacott. Near the above is a small but very neat mural monument, inscribed by Sir Francis Carew, K.B., to Mary (daughter of Sir George More, of Loseley), 0 0 2 284 HISTORY OF SURREY. his " Deare Mother, the Lady Carew, late wife of Sir Nicholas Carew, of Bed dington," " Whose virtuous life doth memory deserve, AVho taught her children Heaven's Great God to serve." She died in 1633. Farther eastward, and guarded by iron rails, is the costly monument of Sir Francis Carew, Knt., which is wrought of different- coloured marbles, and must be regarded as a fine example of the sepulchral style of James I.'s reign. It consists of a long altar tomb, upon which, between two Corinthian columns of black marble, supporting an enriched entablature, lies a full-length statue of the deceased, sculptured in alabaster, upon a mat. He is represented in complete armour, but with a skull-cap instead of the helmet ; his hands are as in prayer. At the back are two framed tablets, each of which is bordered by six small shields of arms, viz. : — On the left : 1st,. Quarterly, sab. and arg. for Hoo ; impaling or, a hon rampant, double-queued, sab. — Welles. 2nd, or, three lions passant, sab. — Carew ; imp. gu. a hon rampant arg. within a border az. bezanty — Oxenbridge. 3rd, arg. three snakes, nowed, prop, for Odron (an Irish barony) ; imp. gu. a dexter arm, prop, habited with a maunch, erm. holding a fleur-de-lis, or — Mohun. 4th, Carew, imp. Hoo. 5th, Carew, imp. arg. three piles, wavy, issuing out of the chief, and nearly meeting in base, vert, within a border, az. bezanty — Bryan. 6th, Carew, imp. az. on a cross arg. five martlets, sab. — More, of Loseley.* In front of the tomb, on a low plinth, and kneeling upon cushions, are small figures of a knight in armour, and his lady in a ruff and long cloak, together with five sons and two daughters, the latter wearing ruffs and farthingales. These, as we learn from an affixed tablet, represent Sir Nicholas Throckmorton, alias Carew, who erected this monument " to the memorie of his deare and well deserving unckle ; " Mary, his wife, eldest daughter * The inscriptions are as foUows, the one being in Enghsh, the other, which is sufficiently laudatory, in Latin : — Here resteth Sir Francis Carew, Knight, sonne and heire of Sir Nicholas Carew, Knight of the honor able Order of the Garter, Maister of the Horse, and Privye Councellour to King Henry the VIII. The said Sir Francis hving unmarried, adopted Sir Nicholas Throckmorton, sonne of Anne Throckmorton, his sister, to be heire of his estate, and to beare his surname ; and having hved lxxxj yeares, he in assured hope to rise in Christ ended this transitory hfe the xvj day of May mdcxi. Virtutis splendore, et equestri clarus honore, Francibcus Carew conditur hoc tumulo : Principibus fidus, percharus amicus amicis, Pauperibus largus, munificusq' bonis. Hospitio excepit Reges, proceresq' frequenter, Hospitibus cunctis semper aperta domus. Innocui mores niveo candore pohti, Lingua dolo caruit, mens sine fraude fuit. Laudatam vitam laudandS morte peregit, Solus in extremis anchora Christtjs erat. Avunculo optime merito Nepos mcestissimus Hoc monumentum honoris et memorise ergo postdt. BEDDINGTON. 285 of Sir George More, of Loseley, Knt. ; and their issue, namely, " Francis, Nicholas, George, Edmund, Oliphe, Elizabeth, and Marie." At each end, over the entablature, is an obelisk, and in the middle, crowning the whole, a large shield, with mantling and helmet, of the Carew arms and quarterings, viz. : — 1st, Carew ; 2nd, Odron; 3rd, Mohun; 4th, Hoo (aU as before described). 5th, gu. a fess checkie, sab. and arg. betw. six cross crosslets of the first. 6th, az. three sinister hands, couped at the wrists, arg. — Mal/mains. 7th, erm. on a chief, az. three cross pattees, arg. — Wichingha/m. 8th, az. a fret, arg. 9th, Welles. 10th, gu. a fess dancettd, betw. six cross crosslets, or. 11th, barry of six, erm. and gu. over aU three crescents, arg. 12th, Bryan. The annexed woodcut, executed from an etching that belonged to the late Arthur Tyton, Esq., of Wimbledon, represents a knight of the Carew family, as exhibited by a small brass figure formerly on his tomb in Bedding ton Church. He is in plate armour, with a sword and dagger, and the family arms are embroidered upon his surcoat. The brass, which was twenty inches in length, was stolen many years ago. Below the east window is a neat monumental sarcophagus inscribed to the memory of Admiral Sir Benjamin Hallowell Carew, G.C.B., one of the officers under Nelson at the battle of the Nile, who died in 1834. It is decorated with a flag (the staff broken), a naval sword, a branch of laurel, and the word "Nile." Another memorial, on the north side of the window, records the decease of Wm. Gee, Esq. (of Beddington), in 1815; also that of his relict, Ann Paston Gee, in 1828. The inscriptive tablets are surmounted by the arms and crest of the deceased, the whole being enclosed in a border of vine-branches, rising from the plinth, which is supported by blank shields.* Affixed to the wall under the north gallery is a wooden frame enclosing a brass tablet thus inscribed : — Mors Svfer Virides Montes. Thos. Greenhill Borne & Bredd in ye famoves University of Oxon Bachelor of Artes & sometymes Student in Magd. CoU. Steward to ye noble Sr Nicholas Carew of Beddington : who deceasd Sept. 17th day An" 1633. Aged 33 years. WiU. GreenhUl, Master of Artes, his brother, and Mary his sister, to his memory erected this : Vnder thy feete intend is here A native born in Oxfordsheere. * The arms of Gee, as certified at the College of Arms in May, 1779, are — Quarterly, 1st and 4th, gu. a sword hi bend, ppr., hilt and pommel or ; 2nd and 3rd, quarterly, arg. and gu., on the 2nd and 3rd quarters, a fret, or ; over aU, on a bend sab., three escaUops of the first. Crest — A gauntlet, erect, ppr., grasping a sword of the last, hilt and pommel or. On the monument these arms are impaled with the foUowing, namely : — On a chev., betw. three roses, three trefoUs shpped. 2g6 HISTORY OF SURREY. First, life and learning Oxford gave Surrey to him his death and grave. Hee once a Hill was fresh and Greene Now wither'd is not to bee seene. , Earth in Earth shovel' d is shut A Hill into a Hole is put. Dan. xii. 3. But darksome Earth by Power Divine ' Mar. xiii. 43. Bright at last as a Sun may shine. W. G. At the top are a skull and cross-bones, on each side a skeleton, and at the bottom a winged hour-glass and this sentence :¦ — Sicvt Hora Sic Vita. There are many tombs and other sepulchral memorials in the churchyard, the principal of which are in memory of different individuals of the Bridges family, of Wallington House. Against the chancel wall, on the south side, is an inscribed tablet commemorative of the Eev. J. B. Ferrers, M.A., a former rector, who 'died in 1841. The walls and ceilings of this church are elaborately decorated in colour, and the edifice is lighted by thirteen richly stained windows, one of which was inserted in 1874 as a memorial to the late Dr. Samuel Wilberforce, Bishop of Winchester. The' aisles are partly- shrouded with ivy, and some noble elms and a Avide-spreading yew-tree overshadow the graves in this enclosure. Beddington Bark, the long-continued residence of the ancient family of the Carews, is now the locale of the Female Orphan Asylum. It immediately adjoins the church, and is distant from Croydon about one and a half miles.* It has already been stated that Eichard Gee, Esq., oh whom this property devolved in 1780, took the name and arms of CareAV under the authority of an Act of Barliament. That, gentleman, dying unmarried * Aubrey, after describing Beddington as a smaU vUlage " -noted for little but the famUy and name of Carew, proceeds thus : — " The seat of this family stands low, in a moorish soil, but much assisted by art : it is a handsome pile of building, having before it neat gardens, not yet finished, with several canals, and an orchard ; but what more particularly deserves our notice, is the fine Orangerie, where are several Orange-trees (transplanted from the warmer breezes of Italian air, into our more inclement climate), planted in the open ground, where they have throve to Admiration for above a whole Century ; but are preserved during- the Winter .Season, under a movable [shed, or] Covert. They, were brought from Italy by Sir Francis Carew, knt. (who built the old mansion-house), and it was the first attempt of the kind that we hear of." — Surrey, vol. ii. pp. 159, 160. In the " Biographia Britannica," article Ralegh, is a somewhat different account of these orange-trees : the editors relate, " from a tradition preserved in the family, that ' they were raised by Sir Francis Carew" from the seeds of the first oranges imported into England by, Sir Walter 'Ralegh, who had married his niece, the daughter of Sir, Nicholas Throck morton.' It has been stated that most of the trees were thirteen feet high in 1690, and that at least 10,000 oranges were gathered from them in that year. They continued to flourish for about a century and a half, but were destroyed by the hard frost in the winter of 1739-40." — Lysons, Environs, vol. i. p. 57. BEDDINGTON. 287 in 1816, demised his entire property, both real and personal, to Mrs. Ann Baston Gee, widow of his brother, William Gee, Avho had been resident at Beddington, and had died there in 1815. Mrs. Gee died in 1828 ; and, having no issue, she bequeathed all her estates in Kent and Surrey to her first cousin, Admiral Sir Benjamin Hallowell, G.C.B. (born in Canada), who, pursuant to her will, assumed the name and arms of Carew by royal license, dated in the same year.* On the Admiral's decease in 1834, he was succeeded by his eldest son, Capt. Charles Hallowell, who also took the name and arms of Carew, by royal license, in 1835. About 1865 Beddington Bark, as such, was broken up, and it has since been converted to different purposes. The mansion itself was purchased by the committee of the Female Orphan Asylum, an institution originally established in Westminster Bridge Boad, Lambeth, 1758. f It is intended to hold 200 orphans, and the average number of children always in the institution is 160. The endowed charities produce £76 annually, so that the institution is mainly dependent upon voluntary contributions for support. The building underwent considerable alteration to suit the requirements of the Orphan Asylum, and the inmates were removed hither in 1866. Of the original mansion erected by Sir Francis Carew, and in which he had twice the honour of receiving the visits of Queen Elizabeth % (as alluded to in the panegyrical verses * After receiving the congratulations of a friend on his accession to the Carew property, the gaUant Admiral pensively remarked, " Half as much twenty years ago had indeed been a blessing ; but I am now old and crank." He was then in his sixty-eighth year. Neither he nor Mrs. Gee had any connection in blood with the ancient family of Carew. t See page 87 ante. X Rowland Whyte, writing to Sir Robert Sydney from Nonsuch "this Saturday Noone, 18 August 1599," says, " Her Majestie hath been at Benington, Thursday and Friday, and returned Yesternight hither." In another letter to the same person, dated Saturday, the 16th of August, 1600, he says, " Her Majestie is very well, I thancke God; for, since Wednesday, she hath bene at Bedington ; vpon Thursday, she dined at Croiden with my Lord of Canterbury, and this day returns to Nonsuch again." (Vide " Sydney Papers," vol. ii. pp. 118, 210.) Sir Hugh Piatt, in his " Garden of Eden" (p. 165), relates an anecdote which shows the flattering attention which Sir Francis bestowed on his royal visitor. " Here I will conclude," he says, " with a conceat of that delicate knight Sir Francis Carew, who for the better accomplishment of his royal entertainment of our late Queen Ehzabeth of happy memory, at his house at Bedington, led her Majesty to a Cherry-tree, whose fruit he had of purpose kept back from ripening, at the least one month after all cherries had taken their farewell of England. This secret he performed by so raising a tent or cover of canvas over the whole tree, and wetting the same now and then with a scoop or horn, as the heat of the weather required ; and so by withholding the sun-beams from reflecting upon the berries, they grew both great, and were very long before they had gotten their perfect cherry colour: and when he was assured of her Majesty's coming, he removed the tent, and a few sunny days brought them to their full maturity." At that time, as appears from Aubrey, there was a summer-house in the grounds, at the top of which was painted the " Spanish Invasion." The Queen's Oak and her favourite walk are still pointed out. The following particulars relating to the " Guarderobe," or Wardrobe, which belonged to Sir Nicholas Carew, of Beddington, and was seized with his other property by Henry VIII., are extracted from the manuscript account in the Harleian Library, already referred to in page 277 : — " Hangings of Tapstry, olde and soore worae. First, Oone peace of Tapstry of a Quene sittinge vnder a clothe of estate, having a grene gowen of redde braunches, and ij boies at her feete, conteynyng in length iiij yards di. and in 288 HISTORY OF SURREY. on his monument), not any part, remains except the great hall. The mansion, as it existed down to the time it was purchased by the Female Orphan Asylum, was built about 1709, at which time Beddington was in the possession of Sir Nicholas Carew, created a Baronet by Queen Anne. It was a brick edifice, with stone dressings, and consisted of a centre and two deep wings, forming three sides of a square, the intermediate area being enclosed from the grounds by iron railings. The north wing was not habitable, the whole interior having been destroyed by fire soon after it was finished, and never restored. The great hall, which still forms the central part of the building, is an admirable specimen of the domestic architecture of the Elizabethan age. The roof is constructed of oak in the manner of our college halls ; the principal ribs spring from large carved brackets, gilt, and form an equilateral pointed arch, which, being underset with smaller ribs, assumes the trefoil character : over each arch is a strong beam, forming a brace with the rafters. The flooring is composed of lozenge- shaped slabs of black and white marble, and the walls are wainscoted with oak in panels : those above the windows are decorated with paintings of military and naval trophies, executed in imitation of bronze. Over the door on the south side is a large boldly carved and finely emblazoned shield of the Carew arms (in twelve quarterings), supporters, and crest, together with an escutcheon of pretence on the nombril point, viz. — Arg. three fleurs-de-lis, in bend, debthe. iij yards iij quarters, having a hoole in thone side. Item, Oone pece of Tapstry w' a white Lyon in hit, and a King sittyng in his Matie and ij quenes knehng before hym in grene gownes, th'one' full of red harth, [harts?] cont. in lengthe v yards iij qrt. and in depthe iij yards iij qrters." Thirty pieces of tapestry are described, displaying httle variety in the subjects. One piece exhibited a fountain with Cupids at the top, and divers musicians playing and singing, having a scutcheon under the fountain, with a herpe [harp] in it : in another was represented a man in harness, pulling a woman to him, and divers other harnessed men taking women by violence ; but in most of the tapestries kings and other personages appeared sitting in state. " Hanging of Verdours!' — These, from the description, appear to have been hunting - pieces. There were four sets of these hangings, the first of which is thus described : — " Five old pieces of Verdours, with beasts and fountains, — quarter hned, and all burnt, moth-eaten, and perished, with holes in the bottom. There were three other sets of Hangings, of a different kind. Carpetts ; nine in number, among them four old coarse Carpets of Verdours, with a small scutcheon in them. Cheyres. Firste, Oone olde Chaier of wood covered with grene velvet, lacking the backe. — It'm, Oone other old Chaier of wood, covered wl p'rple velvet pirled, the seate blewe velvet." " Cusshions " of cloth of gold and silver, velvet, and satin. Four sets are described, some of them pieced and sore worn. " Beddestedes wl thapparell." — Two are noticed at some length. They were ornamented with black velvet, and cloth of gold and silver. Beddes and Pillowes are also mentioned. " Spavars." — Three of Sey and cloth, and one of black satin. " Counterpointes." — Seven are described, with the subjects represented on them. " Fustyans." — With these are included One low stool, for a woman, very mean, covered with purple velvet " fremyd " with Venice gold, old and very mean ; and one piece of arras. " Sondry Percelles." — The items under this head require no notice except the last, relating to the Library, which is somewhat curious, viz. : — " It'm, A great booke of parchement, written and lymned w' gold of graver's worke, De Oon- fessione Amantis, wth xviij other bookes written and prynted of dyvers histories, viz. le p'imer volume de Launcelot, le p'imer volume de Enguerram de Monstrellet, le ijde volume de Enguerram de Monstrellet, le premier volume de Frosart, le ijde volume de Frosart, le thirde volume de Frosart, le ijde volume de Orose, le tres volumes des Cronesques de Fraunce ; ensuyment les Faictz l'Ordeny des Christyans, le graunt vioge de Herusalem." From the repetition of the entries it seems that there must have been two or more copies of the Histories of Froissart and Orosius. It appears, from some CouncU books preserved in the library of the Duke of Buckingham at Stowe, that Henry VIII. held a CouncU in the old manor-house at Beddington in 1541, about two years after he became possessed of the estate by the attainder of Sir Nicholas Carew. BEDDINGTON. 289 between two cotises, gu. ; and the motto, " Nil conscire sibi." * On the opposite wall, above the fireplace, is a carved trophy in very bold relief, which exhibits almost every kind of military implement, whether of ancient or modern warfare, known in Elizabeth's reign. The old fireplace has been filled in with coving, &c, and andirons (3 feet 6 inches in height) substituted ; the ends are of brass, and each ornamented with a demi- savage, supporting an eagle. On the great entrance door is a very curious lock, of the 3ame age as the hall ; it is wrought of iron, and covered with elaborate Gothic tracery richly gilt : the keyhole is concealed by a shield of the royal arms, which moves in a groove, and slides down on touching a knob in the form of a monk's head. The lower story of the south wing contained the dining and drawing rooms and other large apartments, together with a long gallery that extended through its entire length. Besides the old hall, much of the garden wall has also been preserved. The grounds retained many characteristics of the old school of gardening, among which, towards the east, was a waterfall supplied by the river Wandle, which intersects the park in its course to the Thames. The park, which was between three and four miles in circumference, is well wooded, and at one time abounded with deer. A portion of the park was purchased and converted into a sewage ground for Croydon, and in carrying out the work the remains of a Eoman villa were discovered. In this parish are some almshouses for the benefit of poor persons, called St. Mary's Hospital, which were built as a memorial to the Eev. James Hamilton, Bector, who died in 1860. Additions have since been made to these almshouses by the Eev. Alexander H. Bridges in memory of his parents, and also by Mrs. Hamilton (the widow of the Eev. James Hamilton) and her brother-in-law, Dr. Culhane. The principal landowners in this parish are the Eev. Alexander H. Bridges, Beddington House; Nathaniel Bridges, Esq., Wallington House; and Andrew A. Collyer-Bristow, Esq., Beddington Blace. The Woodcote (or Woodcott) Farm, comprising about 800 acres, is occupied by Mr. James Arnot. In the hamlet of Wallington, which is about half a mile from the scattered village of Beddington, and fully twice as extensive in buildings and population, was an ancient chapel standing in a field near the public road, and latterly used as a stable and cart-house. It was built of stone and flints : on each side of the east window was a niche of rich Gothic architecture, and at the south-east corner was another niche for holy water. From the * The supporters are— Antelopes, gu. armed and unguled arg., originaUy or. The crest is— A demi-hon' rampant, between six half-pikes, aU issuant from the round-top of a mainmast, or. Aubrey remarks that this noble family, having had the honour of the peerage in it, stUl retains the same form of bearing with supporters, an honour not annexed to the baronetship. (" Surrey," vol. ii. p. 168.) VOL. III. p p 2go HISTORY OF SURREY. total silence of the records in the Begistry of Winchester concerning this structure, Mr. Lysons regarded it as a mere private chapel, but others have surmised that it was a chapel-of-ease, originally built for the convenience of the inhabitants of Wallington. About 1791 it was pulled down by its proprietor, in opposition to the expressed desire of the parishioners.* In the grounds of Wallington Manor-house is a vaulted crypt of fifteenth-century workmanship : it is approached by a circular newel staircase from tho garden. In consequence of the increase of population in the hamlet of Wallington through the sale of ground in the manor of Bandon, a new ecclesiastical district was assigned to it in 1867. The Church of the Holt Trinity, built by Mr. Nathaniel Bridges, the patron and lord of the manor, is of early English architecture : it has an octagonal apse, nave, aisles, and spire, and will accommodate 540 worshippers. There are two parochial schools at Wallington for boys and- girls respectively: the district also possesses two railway stations. Beddington and Wallington Field Gardens. — The working classes in this parish have been greatly benefited by the establishment here, in 1835, of a "Labourer's Friend Society," for the adoption of the allotment and cottage-garden system; that is, by letting small quantities of land to the day-labourer at a fair rental, calculated upon the average value of the farming land in the neighbourhood. This most praiseAVorthy institution was suggested by Nicholas Carlisle, Esq., K.H. (Secretary to the Society of Antiquaries), when a resident here ; and that gentleman, with John Bridges, Esq. (lord of the manor of Wallington), the Bev. Thos. King, and William. Scott Breston, Esq., formed the first com mittee of management ; and a piece of land adjacent to the Hollow Boad, connected with the open common fields, was appropriated by Mr. Bridges for commencing the experiment. The success attending it induced the Bev. James Hamilton, the then rector, to apportion some of the glebe land for the same purpose, thus extending the whole to 30 acres. It has already been mentioned {vide p. 274) that Camden and several other anti quaries agree in fixing the station which Btolemy calls Neomagus, and Antoninus Noviomagus, at Woodcote, where, says Camden, "are evident traces of a small town, and several walls formed of flints ; and the neighbours talk much of its populousness, and wealth, and many nobles : " its distance from London, also, he considers to strengthen this conjecture. Dr. Gale, in his Commentary on Antoninus, expresses a similar opinion, and conceives that the established tradition of this being formerly a place of much consequence is sufficiently corroborated by the several vestiges of antiquity at different * Lysons, " Environs," vol. i. p. 66, and vol. vi (Supplement), p. 7. CARSHALTON. 29' times discovered here, " such as foundations of houses, tracts of streets, hewn stones, tiles, and above all, the number of wells here met with, and some of an extraordinary depth." Horsley, likewise (in his " Britannia Bomana"), after referring to the different opinions on the subject, concurs with the above authorities in considering Woodcote as the site of the Noviomagus ofthe "Itinerary."* CARSHALTON. This parish, on the north side of the Downs, adjoins Beddington on the east, Sutton on the west, Mitcham on the north, and Woodmansterne on the south. It contains about 2,900 acres, and is of the ratable value of £7,720. Carshalton (the Aultone, or Old Town, of the Doomsday survey) is evidently a place of considerable antiquity. According to the probable conjectures of Salmon, Manning, and others, it acquired " the addition of Cross, Cross- Aulton, from some cross in the neighbourhood, such being frequently to be met with at the intersection of great roads, the rather as there are lands in this parish, partly in Beddington and Wallington, which were known by the name of Cross-lands." It appears that about the reign of King John Cross-Alton had become Kresalton : the orthography has since varied in the records to Crossalton, Kersalton, and Carsalton; but it has for nearly two centuries been uniformly written Carshalton. The Eoman road called the Stane Street passes through this parish. The manor is thus described in the Doomsday survey : — ¦ " Goisfrid [or Geoffrey] de Manneville holds Aultone. Five free men held it of King Edward ; and they could remove at pleasure. One of these men held 2 hides ; and four of them 6 hides each. There were then five manors : now there is but one. It was then assessed at 27 hides : uoav at 3^ hides. The arable land amounts to 10 carucates. One carucate is in demesne; and there are nine villains, and nine cottars, with 5 carucates. There is a Church : and seven bondmen ; and 12 acres of meadow. The men of the County, and of the Hundred, say they never saw writ or officer of the King, to give Goisfrid seisin of this manor. In the time of King Edward it was valued at £20 ; when Goisfrid took possession, at 100s. ; and now at £10. * In that part of the second Iter of Antoninus which lies between London and the terminus (says the above author) " we have three stations which are mentioned in no other Iter ; the first of which is Noviomagus, at ten miles distance from Londinium, according to the Itinerary. This must be the same with Neomagus in Ptolemy, which he places nearly south from London, a little inclining to the west, and is the only or principal place he mentions among the Eegni. Ptolemy's position and the Itinerary distance would direct to the neighbourhood of Croydon or Woodcote, where Camden long ago, and Dr. Gale more recently, have placed Noviomagus ; where both saw some remains of an old town, but I think no proper Eoman antiquities. — -Upon the whole, I confess myself most inclined to continue Noviomagus at Wood cote, — not far from Croydon." — Britannia,, pp. 423, 424, 373. p p 2 292 HISTORY OF SURREY. " Of these hides, Wesman holds 6 of Goisfrid the son of Earl Eustace, to whom Goisfrid de Manneville gave this land, with his daughter (in marriage). There is 1 carucate in the demesne ; and three villains, and one cottar, with 3 carucates : and one mill at 35s. ; and three bondmen; and 10 acres of meadow. The wood yields two swine for pannage. The arable land amounts to 2 carucates. In the time of King Edward it was valued at £4; afterwards at 40s. ; now at 110s. Of these hides a certain King's Smith hath half a hide, which he received with his wife, in the time of King Edward ; but he never did service for it." The manor of Carshalton, or Kersalton, was held in the reign of Stephen by Geoffrey de Magnaville, a grandson of the holder at the time of the Doomsday survey. He was in high favour with the King, but being induced to desert his service for that of the Empress Maud, his estates were confiscated, and this manor was given to Bharamus de Bolonia, nephew of the queen-consort of Stephen. Sibylla, daughter and sole heiress of Bharamus, transferred this estate by marriage to Ingelram de Fielnes, .or Fiennes, though the superiority was vested in the Bohuns, Earls of Hereford, who held the honour of Magnaville, or Mandeville. William de Fielnes (descended from Ingelram and Sibylla) in 1270, being about to go to the Holy Land, appears to have mortgaged Kersalton to his attorney, William de Ambesas ; and his son, John de Fielnes, transferred his interest in the manor to William Medburn. The manorial estate, burdened with the rent of 20 marks, which William de Fielnes had reserved when he conveyed it to Ambesas, came into the possession of Nicholas de Carreu, who had a grant of free- warren for his lands here in 48 Edward III. ; and in 14 Eichard II. he died seized of the manor, which was returned as of no value on account of the reseiwed rent charged on it.* It probably passed from the Carews in consequence of the marriage of John St. John with the daughter of Sir Eichard Carew. John St. John, the son of that lady, sold a moiety of the manor to Eichard Burton, Esq., in 1580, and is supposed to have sold the other moiety to W. Cole. After several transfers the latter moiety was conveyed, in 1655, to Thomas Twisden and others as trustees for Sir Edmund Hoskins, Serjeant-at-Law, whose representatives, in 1696, sold it to Sir William Scawen; and he, about 1712, purchased the share which had belonged to the Burtons. Sir William died without issue in 1722, and left the whole estate to his nephew, Thomas Scawen, Esq., whose son and heir, James Scawen, M.B. for Surrey, conveyed it to trustees for sale in 1781; and it was bought by George Taylor, Esq., who died in 1834, and was succeeded by his nephew, the late John Taylor, Esq., whose trustees are the present lords of the manor. * Escheats, 14 Rich. II. CARSHALTON. 293 Carshalton Bark, with the mansion called Mascalls, belonged to Eichard Burton, Esq., and being sold by one of his family to Sir Edmund Hoskins, it passed again by sale to Sir William Scawen.* His nephew and successor, Thomas Scawen, projected the building of a magnificent house here ; and Leoni, an architect of some note in the earlier part of the last century, was employed in making designs for the mansion, which he published in his edition of the "Architecture of Leo Baptista Alberti" about 1742 ; but Mr. Scawen did not carry his plan into execution, f The present house — near the High Street — is built of Bortland stone, thrown into relief by trees that form a sombre background, and with a beautiful clear stream of water in front. The park is well wooded, particularly with walnut-trees. At the eastern side of the park are a pair of handsome iron gates, intended to have been the entrance to the proposed mansion, formerly bronzed. These were erected about 1726 by Thomas Scawen, Esq., as his initials appear on them, and the gate is surmounted by a crest of the Scawen family. On the north pillar is a leaden figure of the goddess Diana, and on the south that of Actseon. Carshalton Bark, with the manorial estate, is now in the occupation of Jeremiah Coleman, Esq. The wall surrounding it, which is about two miles in extent, commences not far from the church, on the right hand of the road to Beddington. Stone Court. — This appears to have been the estate of Bartholomew, Lord Burghershe, who, in 18 Edward III., obtained a grant of the right of free-warren for the whole of his demesne lands in Kersalton. It afterwards belonged to the Gaynsfords of Crowhurst, and from them was called Gaynsford's Blace. Nicholas Gaynsford, Sheriff of Surrey in 38 Henry VL, was a partisan of the house of Tork, and was appointed an Esquire of the Body to Edward IY. on his accession to the throne ; but' having incurred suspicion of treason against the new King, a writ was issued for the seizure of his manor of Burghershe, alias Kersalton, and also that of Shalford Clifford, which Edward had bestowed on him. He recovered possession of the former estate, though not of the latter ; and he repeatedly held the office of Sheriff of Surrey in the reigns of Edward IV. and Eichard III. After the accession of Henry VII. he acquired the favour of that * Sir Wilham Scawen was an eminent merchant in London, descended, as the inscription on his monument in the church states, of a Cornish family. He acquired a large fortune, and was elected one of the knights of the shire for this county in the fourth, sixth, and seventh of Queen Anne. He had risked nearly the whole of his property in the cause of WiUiam III. After having retired many years from his mercantUe pursuits, " he one day, to the astonishment of every one, appeared again upon 'Change, when a brother asked him if there was any thing he could do for him 1 ' You may,' said Sir Wilham, ' get me some bills upon Holland.' Sir Wilham did not despond. He went to the siege of Namur. The King hearing of it, sent to him, and said, 'Sir William, what do you do here?' Sir Wilham rephed, ' Please your Majesty, it matters not what becomes of me, if your Majesty should not 'return safe to England.' The Kine returned safe, to the immense gain of Sir WUliam." — Manning, Surrey, vol. ii. p. 510. + Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. pp. 507 — 511. 2g4 HISTORY OF SURREY. prince, who made him one of the Esquires of his Body ; and he Avas one of the principal attendants on the Queen in her procession from the Tower to Westminster previously to her coronation. Henry Gaynsford, who held this estate in 38 Henry VIII., alienated about 300 acres to Sir Eoger Copley : he also demised the site of the manor of Stone Court to Walter Lambard for ninety-nine years, reserving a rent of 12d. Lambard erected a handsome house here, which became the property of Sir Henry Burton, and afterwards of Joseph Cator, who in 1729 sold it to Thomas Scawen, Esq. ; and the trustees of his son, James Scawen, transferred it by sale to William Andrews, Esq., in 1781.* The house, which had retained the name of Gaynsford's Blace, was pulled down about 1800. The manor of Kymersley, which at one time belonged to the Burtons, and an estate named Crosse-lands, held by the same family in the time of Henry VIII., cannot be traced in modern times, j- Carshalton, celebrated by Fuller for " trout and walnuts," obtained from Henry III. the grant of a weekly market on Tuesday, and an annual fair for three days, on St. Mary's Day, the vigil, and day following. % The latter has been discontinued since 1851, and the former for many years, though the precise date has not been ascertained. The Wandle, still abounding with trout, passes through the parish, and, increased by other streams and several springs which rise there, forms a large pool of remarkably clear water nearly in the centre of the village. On the banks of the stream are numerous mills and manufacturing works ; for in its course of ten miles to Wandsworth, where it falls into the Thames, is carried on a more extensive commerce than perhaps is known in the same compass on any other stream of the kingdom. Stevenson, in his "Agriculture of Surrey," says that in 1813 there were nearly forty mills of different kinds. § Nearly close to the western boundary of the churchyard is a neatly kept well of the purest water, which tradition has connected with the memory of Anne Boleyn. Accord ing to report, the spring arose suddenly from a hole into which ber horse had accidentally struck its foot whilst pacing here. The principal mansion in this parish is Carshalton House, occupying the site of a resi dence built by the celebrated Dr. Eadcliffe. || Its present owner and occupier is the Bev. * Manning, "Surrey," vol. ii. pp. 511, 512. t Id. p. 512. X Cart. 43 Henry III. m. 4. § See " History and Antiquities of Carshalton," by G. B. Brighthng. || Dr. Radcliffe, remembered for his eccentricities, and as the founder of the Radcliffe Library at Oxford for which he bequeathed ,£40,000, was one of the physicians of Wilham III., and of the Princess (afterwards Queen) Anne. He died in 1714, at the age of sixty-four. His house at Carshalton was sold for ,£3,500 to Sir John Fellowes, Sub-Governor of the South Sea Company, by whom it was rebuUt, at which time, says Aubrey's editor (" Surrey," vol. ii. p. 174), in leveUing the ground to make an avenue, many bones, supposed to be human, were found. The house afterwards belonged to the Lord Chancellor Hardwicke ; then to the Hon. Thomas Walpole, who sold it to John Hodson Durand, Esq., of whom it was purchased by David Mitchell, Esq. At the time when Lysons wrote it was the property of Theodore Broadhead, Esq. CARSHALTON. 295 Alfred Barratt, D.D. It is a good specimen of the old English brick mansion, and has been lately much improved by the addition of a large dining-hall, dormitories, and other build ings. The railway company took a small portion of land on the outskirts of the grounds, but fortunately left the property otherwise uninjured. Some years since Mr. Gunter (formerly of the well-known firm of Gunter & Co.) bought the property owned by the late Mr. Wallace, and built a very commodious house ; and since the sale of the estate of Mr. Samuel Gurney a few years back much land has been converted to building purposes. Mr. J. B. Gassiot bought the Culvers, Mr. Gurney's residence. The rectory, given by Bharamus de Bolonia to the prior and convent of Merton, was vested in the Crown in 1549. Sir William Goring held it in 1554, and John Fromond in 1568. It passed from the heirs of the latter to the family of Bynde, or Byne. Henry Byne, of Carshalton, who died in 1697, gave a moiety of the tithes to the vicar of the parish ; and his son Henry, by will dated 1723, settled the remainder in the same manner, subject to the life interest of his wife.* The patronage is uoav vested in Albemarle Cator, Esq. Rectors of Carshalton in and since 1800 : — I.— William Rose, M.A. Instituted in 1777. 2. — Charles Cator. Instituted in 1829. 3. — William Hardy Vernon, B.A. Instituted in 1835. 4. — William Albemarle B. Cator, M.A. Instituted in 1845. The church, which is in the deanery of Ewell and diocese of Eochester, is situated on a rising ground near the centre of the town, and is dedicated to All Saints. In the Valor of 20 Edward I. the rectory is rated at 21 marks, the vicarage at 6 marks and 40d. It is discharged in the King's books, but pays for procurations 7s. 6^d., and for synodals 2s. Id. In its present state the church consists of nave, with a chancel, two aisles, and a low embattled tower, containing eight bells, between the chancel and the nave. What is now the chancel, however, was originally the entire church, having the tower at the west- end. The chancel is composed of rubble-stones and flint. The aisles are separated from the nave by ancient and dissimilar columns of rude workmanship, supporting three pointed arches on each side : their capitals are enriched with sculptured foliage. The upper parts of both aisles Were rebuilt with brick, and raised for the purpose of erecting galleries, about the beginning of the last century, chiefly at the expense of Sir John Fellowes and Sir William Scawen : the upper part of the tower is of freestone. In 1811 the church under- * Manning, " Surrey," vol. U. pp. 513, 514. 296 HISTORY OF SURREY. Avent a thorough repair, and several important alterations and improvements have since been effected.* In this church are some fine brasses, ancient monuments, and inscriptions, accounts of which are preserved in Manning and Bray : \ several others that were in existence in Aubrey's time are now lost. Against the wall, on the north side of the altar, in what is now the vestry, is an altar tomb of Burbeck marble, over which, affixed against the wall, is a large slab of the same material inlaid with the brass figures of a man and a woman at prayer. The man is in armour, on one knee, with his gauntlet and sword at his feet ; behind him are his four sons, the eldest in armour as an esquire, the second habited as a priest, and the third and fourth as merchants. Before the woman is a desk with an open book upon it ; behind are her four daughters. Beneath is the following inscription : — $rap. iox the cS-mlsa oi gtitholtts (gagnesforb, somttimt C&sqQtt tot the bob$ oi the most noble princes ffibtoari flu HU. anb Ijenrg the %il. anb JJaogaret his tojif e, nlso ont oi the ©entiltoammen oi the moet noblz p'ttcesses ffilMrabeth anb (Hteabeih, togfes oi the foxsnib most noble p'ntts k&xQzs. '(Ehe tohich giicholrts bzctzib the bap. oi in the gere of oxttz IDorb <&ob a° mcccc , anb the foxsaib JBarflarei biscesgb the baa oi in the sere oi mare |E0rb <&ab a ihotosanb cccc . ©n toltmra sotollts J'hn habe mereD. JVmen.J Traces of the gilding and painted fillings-up of the brass figures on the slab are still visible. The lady's head-dress, remarkable for its size, corresponds with other specimens of the same date ; her robe, which has close sleeves, is red, edged with gold. Over the heads of the figures are some armorial bearings in brass. § On the south wall of the vestry, or chancel, is a small mural monument of black marble, equally curious for the facts it records, and for the style of the inscription, which is as follows : — M. s. Under the middle stone y' guards ye ashes of a certayne fryer, sometime Vicar of this place, is raked up y duste of William Quelchb, B.D. who ministred in ye same since the Reformac'on. His lott was, through God's mercy, to burne incense here about 30 yr> and ended his course Aprill the 10, an0 D'ni 1654, being aged 64 years. 1 Reg. 13, 31. * Lysons has expressed an opinion that the church was built in the reign of Richard II. The data on which he founds this opinion are, that previously to the alterations during the eighteenth century there were, in the windows of the north aisle, the arms of Burley and Sarnesfield, with the Order of the Garter, and those of John Beaufort, Earl of Somerset, without that distinction ; that Simon, Richard, and John Burley were elected Knights of the Garter in the reign of Richard II. ; and that the Earl of Somerset was afterwards of that order, but not elected till the reign of Henry IV. The architecture of the chancel, he says, confirms the above conjecture, but the columns which separate the nave from the aisles appear to be of a more remote age ; and further, he states that in the Registry at Winchester there is a commission, dated in 1324, for reconciling the church of Carshalton, which had been poUuted by the death of Thomas Gruton. (" Environs," vol. i. p. 126.) Now, Richard II. did not begin to reign until 1378. The chancel, however, is apparently of a much earher period. It is probable, however, that additions were made in the reign of Richard II. + " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 514 et seq. X It is remarkable that there are other monuments in this church in which blanks have been left for the dates, as though they had been prepared in the hfetime of those whom they commemorate, and the dates never supphed. § For a coloured engraving of these brasses see Lysons's " Environs," vol. i. p. 128. CARSHALTON. 297 Quos bifrons templo divisit cultus in uno Pacificus tumulus jam facit esse pares ; Felix ilia dies, quee cultus semina solvit, Qua? placidft fidei prselia condit humo. Hie sumus ambo pares, donee cineremq ; fidemq ; Discutiat reddens Christus utriq ; suum. Those whom a two fac't service here made twaine, At length a friendly grave makes one again. Happy that day that hides or sinful jarrs, That shutts up al or shame in earthen barrs : Here let us sleepe as one, till C ye juste Shall sever both or service, faith, and duste. Near the above-mentioned tablet is a monument of a costly and imposing character to the memory of Henry Herringman, citizen and stationer of London, and Alice his wife, who "were married in 1650, and lived 58 years and upwards very happily and com fortably together, and dyed within six weeks and two days of one another." * On the opposite side of the vestry is a mural monument of the Taylors, lords of the manor; also one to the memory of the Bev. William Bose, who died in 1829, having been " fifty -two years rector of Carshalton, and of Beckenham, in Kent." At the east end of the north aisle is a massive monument of veined marble to the memory of Sir John Fellowes, Bart., who died in 1724. Corresponding with it, in the south aisle, is a handsome monument, supported by Corinthian columns and pilasters, to the memory of Sir William Scawen, M.B., who died in 1722, and who is represented by a statue of white marble, in a loose robe and flowing peruke, reclining on his left arm. In the south aisle also is a monument of black marble, supported by columns of the Ionic order, to the memory of Sir Edmund Hoskins, Knt., Serjeant-at-Law, who died in 1664. On a stone in the north aisle, commemorating Johan, wife of Henry Burton, Esq., who died in 1624, is a brass figure of a woman praying, with a scroll issuing from her mouth inscribed, " 0 blessed Lady of pittie, p'y for me, y* my soule savyd may be." On the right and left of the entrance to the chancel from the nave are two small but beautifully executed mural monuments in white marble. The former represents a youthful female, attendant on the death-bed of her brother, Michael Shepley, Esq., who died in 1837. The monument on the left, to the memory of Susanna Shepley (one of the sisters), who died in 1840, represents a female resting on a cenotaph surmounted by an urn. The font is small and of stone. Lysons has preserved the following inscription from the tomb or gravestone of Thomas * The value of this monument has been estimated by a sculptor of the present day at 1,000 guineas. The artist's name was Kidwell. VOL. III. Q Q 298 HISTORY OF SURREY. Humphreys, a barber (noted equally for his corpulence and for his activity as a dancer), in the churchyard : — Tom Humphreys lies here, by death beguil'd AVho never did harm to man, woman, or child ; And since without foe, no man was e'er known, Poor Tom was nobody's foe but his own ; Lay [? he] light on him earth, for none would than he (Though heavy his bulk) trip it hghter on thee. Died Sept. 4, 1742, aged 44 years. The Eegisters of this parish, commencing in 1538, are comprised in two books, the former of which appears to have been well kept, excepting that, owing to the troubles of the times, it contains no entries from 1644 to 1651. The latter begins in 1703, and from 1708 it has been kept with great accuracy. The dates of births as well as of baptisms are entered — a system which, whenever practicable, ought to be enforced. In the old Eegister is an entry, under the date of March 3rd, 1569-70, referring to the celebration of the funeral here of Sir Nicholas Throckmorton, Knt., who had an occasional residence at Carshalton ; but he was actually buried in London, in the Church of St. Catherine Cree, where a monument of alabaster was erected to his memory. He was celebrated both as a soldier and statesman, and acquired so much of the favour of Queen Elizabeth that the Earl of Leicester regarded him as a formidable rival, and is suspected to have hastened his death by poison, "as he died suddenly at the earl's house, near Temple Bar, after eating a hearty supper." * There are one or two Dissenting places of worship in Carshalton, and also a public hall, used for lectures and other purposes. In 1854 the Boyal Hospital for Incurables was established here at Leicester House. The building Avas occupied by the patients till 1857, when, being found too small, this important charity was removed to Melrose Hall, West Hill, Butney. A railway station on the London, Brighton, and South Coast line was opened here in 1868. When excavations were made for the railway through the hill on the road to Sutton, a number of relics of ancient weapons were found. Unfortunately the workmen at once disposed of them to a stranger. * Lysons, " Environs," vol. i. p. 133. His death occurred in 1569-70. He left a large famUy by Anne his wife, the daughter of Sir Nicholas Carew, of Beddington. Another entryin the Carshalton Register records the marriage, in 1576, of " The right honorable Lorde Thomas Howard, Viscount of Bindon, and Mistres Mabell Burton." Frances, an offspring of this union, was the beautiful but vain Duchess of Richmond, of whom Wilson, in his " Life of James I.," has spoken so largely. She was thrice married, her first match being with Henry Prannel, the son of a vintner ; her second, with the Earl of Hertford ; and the last, with the Duke of Richmond. Being again left a widow, she aspired to the hand of the King himself, but the British Solomon in this instance was too discreet to gratify her ambition. CHEAM. 299 CHEAM. This parish is bounded by Maldon on the north, by Sutton on the east, by Banstead on the south, and by Cuddington on the west. It contains about 1,900 acres of land, the northern portion of which is argillaceous, and the southern calcareous. The commons, waste lands, and common fields were enclosed under an Act of Barliament passed in 1806.* Mr. Manning says, " In 1018 Cheyham was given by King Athelstan to Christchurch, Canterbury; " and for this statement he refers to Somner's " Canterbury," page 217, and to a Chartulary of Canterbury in the Bodleian Library. | Here, however, is a mistake which requires some explanation. King Athelstan died in 940, and therefore could not have been the donor of this manor. Some extracts from a Chronicle of Gervase of Canterbury, in manuscript in the Cottonian Library, are published in Dugdale's "Monasticon " (new edit. vol. i. p. 95), where it is stated that in 1018 " Mesteham and Cheyham, two vills in the region of Surrey, Avere given by Ethelstan to the monastery of Christchurch." No title distinguishes the donor, but there can hardly be a doubt but that he was Ethelstan, or Athelstan, a younger son of Ethelred II., and brother of Edmund Ironside, whose name and designation ("Ethelstan Filius Begis") appear among those of the witnesses to the charter granted by Ethelred himself to the monastery of Burton-on-Trent in 1004. (See Stow, Chron. p. 115.) Brince Athelstan also bestowed on the monks of Canterbury Holingburne, in Kent, towards the support of their table. J In the Doomsday Book this manor is thus described among the lands of the Archbishop of Canterbury, who held "Ceiham" for the provision of the monks — "de victu mona chorum : " — " In the time of King Edward it was assessed at 20 hides : now at 4 hides. There are 14 carucates of arable land. Two carucates are in demesne, and twenty-five villains, and twelve cottars, with 15 carucates. There is a Church ; and there are five bondmen, and 1 acre of meadow. The wood yields twenty-five swine. In the time of King Edward, and subsequently, it was valued at £8 : now at £14." § * A notice occurs in a court roll of the manor of East Cheam of a place caUed Lynce's Corner, where stood a cross marking the concurrence of the three hundreds of Kingston, Copthorne, and Wallington, and of the parishes of Cheam, Cuddington, and Maldon. t " Surrey," vol. U. p. 468. X According to the Great Chartulary of the see of Canterbury (referred to above) the grant of the manor of Cheam to the monks exempted them from the payment of all taxes, except for the repairing of bridges and fortresses, and defraying the expense of the King's expeditions. Like an epigram, the grant carries a sting in its tah, concluding with this bene volent expression levelled against those who might presume to infringe its terms — " Excommunicatus cum diabolo societur." § Manning and Bray record some remarkable particulars, but without quoting their authority, connected with the early history of Cheam, or Kaham, as here called : — " A certain Vavassor who held (Vavassoriam) land in Kaham of Ralph de Kaham was disseised for some crime which ha. had committed. He had a female cousin, by whom WiUiam PosteU, then parson of the church of Kaham, had Q Q, 2 300 HISTORY OF SURREY. According to Somner the Archbishops of Canterbury held the estates of the church in common with the monks of Christchurch, till Lanfrank, who presided over the see from 1070 to 1089, built a palace for himself, and made a division of the revenues, in consequence of which Cheam was separated into two portions, called East Cheam and West Cheam, which constituted distinct manors, now united, in the possession of the Bev. Edward William Northey. Lanfrank kept East Cheam, with the advowson of the living, for himself and his successors, and assigned West Cheam to the monks.* In the Taxation of Bope Nicholas the manor of East Cheam is valued at £10, and the other manor at £6 13s. 4d. Manor of East Cheam. — This manor continued to form a part of the estates of the archiepiscopal prelates until the reign of Henry VIII., who, wishing to annex it to the honour of Hampton Court, obtained it from Archbishop Cranmer in exchange for Chislet Bark, in Kent, and the transfer was accordingly made by a deed dated 1539. In the beginning of the reign of Bhilip and Mary a grant of the estate was made to Anthony four daughters ; of whom three were married, one remained single. Postell took this land to farm of Ralph de Kaham, but a Chaplain, cousin of the Vavassor, sued Postell for the land, and proceeded so far that battle was gaged in Ralph's Court ; PosteU, however, by means of a present to Ralph, got him to avow that he had given the land to Postell in frank almoigne with the Church of Kaham, and so that suit -was ended. " Afterwards Robert de Cirsurandus, cousin of the Chaplain and the Vavassor, brought a fresh suit in the King's Court for the advowson of the Church, which was settled between Robert and the Monks of Merton. " After this, Ralph de GremvUle being a married man, but his wife languishing in sickness, took to him the unmarried daughter of Postell ; by her had two sons, Robert and Ralph, born in his whe's lifetime. He and the woman were summoned to the Chapter of Merton, when she was excommunicated, and died under that sentence. Robert and Ralph being adults in the time of Henry II., brought their suit to recover the inheritance as weU of the said Gremville, as of their grandfather Postell, whereupon a jury was summoned, who awarded to them the inheritance of their father, and would have awarded to them the Church of Kaham, but it being objected that they were bastards, the King ordered that though the jury was summoned, if bastardy could be proved, they should lose as weU their father's inheritance as the advowson. They hearing this would not prosecute their suit for the advowson, but confined themselves to the claim of their father's land, which they contended was given them by deed." — Surrey, vol. ii. p. 468. * Referring to the manor of AVest Cheam, the subjoined extract wiU be found to contain some curious information as to the " customary services " of tenants under the feudal system : — " Amongst the Records in the Treasury of the Dean and Chapter of Canterbury is the following account of the services to be done by their customary tenants here, of whom there were seven : each was to plough half an acre or give 5d. : every one having a horse was to harrow oats one day : they were to perform in the whole 602 days work, or to pay, if the Lord pleased, 25s. Id., the price of two works being Id., except two weeks at Christmas, one at Easter, and one at Pentecost, in which weeks no works were to be required ; each was to work two days in a week during the five weeks of harvest, if it lasted so long. " The Cotters (Cotmanni, the number not mentioned), were to do 688 works (except in the weeks above mentioned), or to give, if the Lord pleased, 19s. 2d., the price of three works being ld. In harvest they were to do 150 works ; the mowing one acre of wheat or oats was to be considered as two works, and one acre of barley, pease, or tares, as four works. — From certain seven acres of land was to be paid yeaily three quarters and a half of barley, which is caUed Cherchshot. — The customary Tenants were to thrash nine bushels for eight of every kind of grain. The Bailiff was to be aUowed his rent and works which were due from him, because he received no wages, except by favour of the Lord. — The Customary Tenants were also to have one bushel of rye or barley when they did their services, herrings to the value of 12d., and cheese 3d.; the Harrowers to have one bushel of barley, and in herrings to the value of 6d. — The land of the Smith was discharged because it was part of the demesne, value 2s. 6d." — Register 2. cccxxxih or 243 (the pages having two sets of numbers). — Manning, Surrey, voL ii. p. 469. CHEAM. 3° ' Browne, Viscdunt Montague, who in 1583 sold it to Henry Fitz-Alan, Earl of Arundel, from whom it passed to John, Lord Lumley, who married Jane, daughter and coheiress of Lord Arundel. Manor of West Cheam. — The prior and convent of Christchurch retained possession of this estate until the dissolution of monasteries, when it became vested in the Crown, and Henry VIII. granted it on lease, at a reserved rent of £5, to Balph Goldsmith. Queen Elizabeth in 1585 granted the reversion of the premises formerly belonging to Christchurch Briory, and afterwards annexed to the honour of Hampton Court, together with reserved rent of £5 and the manor of West Cheam, with all the rents, services, and emoluments belonging to it, with the exception of the lead and bells, and the advowsons of churches, of the yearly value of £9 16s. 2|d., to John, Lord Lumley, to hold of the honour of Hampton Court in free socage, and not in capite, by fealty only for all services. This nobleman, having acquired the manor of East Cheam, as above stated, by marriage, became owner of both these estates. He died in 1609, and, though twice married, had no surviving issue. His estates consequently devolved on his nephew, Henry Lloyd, son of the learned antiquary, Humphrey Lloyd, by his lordship's sister Barbara. The manors of East and West Cheam descended to the Eev. Bobert Lumley Lloyd, D.D., who claimed the barony of Lumley, forfeited by the attainder of George Lumley, the father of his maternal relation, and, as he alleged, restored by the grant to that personage in 1547 ; but the committee of the House of Lords decided against the claim, on the ground that when John, Lord Lumley, was restored in blood (after the attainder of his father) by Edward VL, he was not restored to the ancient barony held in fee, but made a baron by a new creation, which dignity was limited to the heirs of his body, and could not, therefore, descend to the posterity of his sister. Dr. Lloyd died in 1729, having bequeathed his estate at Cheam to John, Duke of Bedford, to whom he had been indebted for preferment in the Church. In 1755 the Duke sold the manors of East and West Cheam to Edward Northey, Esq., whose son and heir (William) died in 1808, and was succeeded by his cousin, William Northey, Esq., M.B. for Newport, in Cornwall. That gentleman was succeeded about 1826 by his nephew, Edward Bichard Northey, Esq., who died in 1878, being succeeded by his son, the present owner. Lower Cheam. — The mansion, or manor-house, of East or Lower Cheam, was held on lease from the Crown, by the family of Fromond, before the manor was granted to Viscount Montague. The Fromonds appear to have obtained a property in the estate in fee-simple, though at what period is uncertain. Their estate, consisting of a capital messuage in HISTORY OF SURREY. 3O2 Cheam, with 9 acres of land called Lampland and Lightland, tenements in West Cheam, and other places in Surrey and Kent, passed by the marriage of an heiress to the family of Walmesley. Bartholomew Walmesley, who died seized of the estate in 1701, leaving a son who died young, the inheritance devolved on Catherine Walmesley, his daughter, who in 1712, when only fifteen, married Eobert, Lord Betre, who died the following year, leaving his widow pregnant. In 1733 she remarried Charles Stourton, who succeeded to the barony of Stourton, but died without issue. His lady survived till 1785, when this estate came into the possession of her grandson, Eobert Edward, Lord Betre, by whom the house was sold to Mr. Bullock, and of him it was purchased by John Antrobus, Esq., who rebuilt it. Lord Betre sold most of the land to John Hilbert, Esq., to whom it belonged in 1808. This gentleman was succeeded in the East Cheam estate by his nephew, John Hilbert Tate, Esq., of Epsom, in 1819. The principal seat in the parish is that of Hugh Lindsay Antrobus, Esq., second son of the late Sir Edmund William Antrobus, Bart. : it occupies the site of the ancient mansion of the Fromonds, erected, as mentioned above, by John Antrobus, Esq., who died in 1813.* North Cheam Bare, the property of Archdale Palmer, Esq., is now used as a school. The benefice of Cheam is a rectory in the deanery of Ewell, and in the peculiar juris diction of the Archbishop of Canterbury. It is valued in the Liber Begis at £17 5s. 5d., paying for procurations 6s. 8d. The patronage went with the manor of East Cheam, and thence to the Crown, and was granted out on lease. In 1585 Queen Elizabeth granted the reversion in fee to Sir Christopher Hatton. It belonged afterwards to Lord Lumley, and descended, with his estate, to his nephew, Henry Lloyd, who, with his son, conveyed it in 1638 to Benjamin Holford, by whom it was transferred, in the same year, to the College of St. John, Oxford (in which it continues), for the consideration of £380. The Eegisters commence with 1538, and have few deficiencies. It is remarkable that of six successive rectors of Cheam in the sixteenth and seven teenth centuries five should have become bishops, f * Edmund Antrobus, Esq. (fourth son of Philip Antrobus, Esq., of Congleton, in the county of Chester, by Mary, daughter of Thomas Rowley, Esq., of Overton, in the county of Stafford), was created a Baronet in 1815, with remainder to his nephews, Edmund Wilham Antrobus and Gibbs Crawford Antrobus, Esqrs., the sons of his brother, John Antrobus, Esq., of Cheam, by Anne, only daughter of Gibbs Crawford, Esq. Sir Edmund died without issue in 1826, when, agreeably to the patent of creation, the title devolved upon his elder nephew. This gentleman, born in 1792, married (in 1817) Anne, daughter of the Hon. Hugh Lindsay, brother of Alexander, sixth Earl of Balcarras, by whom he had several chUdren. + 1. Anthony Watson, instituted in 1581, was promoted to the see of Chichester in 1596, and held Cheam in com- mendam till his death in 1605, at which time he was Almoner to King James. He was buried at Cheam. 2. Lancelot Andrews, Bishop of Chichester, was instituted in 1609 to the rectory of Cheam, which he resigned within CHEAM. 3°3 Rectors of Cheam in and since 1800 : — 1. — Henry Peach, B.D. Instituted in 1780. 2. — William Bennett, B.D. Instituted in 1813. 3.— Thomas Carteret Maule, B.D. Instituted in 1856. 4. — Charles Hobbes Rice, B.D. Instituted in 1867. The old church, dedicated to St. Dunstan, consisted of nave, north and south aisles, a chancel, and a low square tower, embattled, at the west end, in which were six bells. a few months on his promotion to Ely. He was afterwards translated to Winchester. This prelate was celebrated both as a preacher and a writer. Fuller said that they who stole his sermons could not steal his manner. Queen Elizabeth gave him the deanery of Westminster, which laid the foundation of his promotion under her successor, King James. He had a considerable share in the translation of the Bible. He is said to have understood fifteen languages. The following lines were applied to him : — "If ever any merited to be The Universal Bishop, tins was he ; Great Andrews, who the whole vast sea did drain Of learning, and distiU'd it in his brain : Those pious drops are of the purest kind, Which trickled from the hmbeck of his mind." Bishop Andrews died in 1626, and hes buried in St. Saviour's Church, Southwark. 3. George Mountain, or Mountaigne, was instituted to the rectory of Cheam on Bishop Andrews's translation to Ely in 1609 ; was promoted to Lichfield and Coventry in 1611 ; he resigned Cheam on his translation to Lincoln in 1617 ; he afterwards became successively Bishop of London and of Durham, and, in 1628, Archbishop of York. He died in the same year, and was buried at Cawood, in Yorkshire, the place of his nativity. 4. Eichard Senhouse was instituted to the rectory of Cheam on the promotion of Bishop Mountain. He resigned in 1624, when made Bishop of Carhsle. He died in 1628. 5. John Hacket obtained the living of Cheam on the promotion of Bishop Senhouse. His motto was, " Serve God and be cheerful." At the breaking out of the civil wars he was chosen by the clergy to be their advocate against the BUI for taking away the Church government. While in retirement at Cheam he continued to read the Common Prayer until he was enjoined by the Surrey Committee to forbear, and found himself under the necessity of omitting such parts as were most offensive to the Government. Soon after the Restoration, while holding the living of St. Andrew's, Holborn, having received notice for the interment of a fanatic, he committed the burial service to memory. " As he was a great master of elocution, and was hiniseh always affected with the propriety and excellence of the composition, he dehvered it with such emphasis and grace, as touched the hearts of every one present, and especiaUy of the friends of the deceased, who unanimously declared, that they had never heard a finer discourse. But how were they astonished, when they were told that it was taken from our liturgy ; a book, which, though they had never read, they had been taught to regard with contempt and detestation !" Dr. Hacket, during his retirement with his pupil, Sir John Byron, at Newstead Abbey, wrote a Latin comedy entitled Loyola,, which was twice acted before James I. He resigned the rectory of Cheam in 1662, after holding it nearly forty years. This was the year after he had been promoted to the see of Lichfield and Coventry. He expended .£20,000 on the repairs and improvements of his cathedral; he made additions to Trinity College, Cambridge, at a cost of ,£1,200 ; and he left his valuable library and various other benefactions to the university. He died at Lichfield in 1670, and hes buried in the cathedral, under a handsome tomb erected by his eldest son, Sir Andrew Hacket, Master in Chancery. The Rector of Cheam, between Bishop AVatson and Bishop Andrews, was Thomas Playfere, Margaret Professor of Divinity at Cambridge. He was instituted in 1605, died in 1609, and was buried in St. Botolph's Church, Cambridge, " where there is an inscription to his memory fuU of the most extravagant praises." The first rector presented to Cheam by St. John's CoUege was Edward Bernard, a learned linguist, critic, chronologist, and astronomer. He was instituted in 1672, resigned in the foUowing year, and was appointed Savihan Professor of Astronomy at Oxford. He died in 1697, and was buried in the chapel of St. John's CoUege. HISTORY OF SURREY. According to a note on a pane of glass taken out of the old palace at Croydon, " the church of Cheme was burnt by lightning in 1639." The destruction, however, could have been only partial, as the tower and part of the chancel walls, built of flint and stone, and of a far more ancient date, remained : the external walls of the body of the church were of brick. About thirty years ago an enlargement of the church, with many improvements, was effected on the north side at an expense of £700, which was defrayed by the principal inhabitants, without a rate or any extraneous aid whatever. The nave, aisles, and tower were pulled down in 1864, a new and beautiful church having been built by the side of it. A new spire was added in 1870. At the end of the south aisle of the old church was a small chancel, or chapel, called Fromonds', in which the family of that name were buried. This chapel, dedicated to St. Mary, was originally built previously to 1449, as John Yerde, in his will of that date, directed his body to be buried therein.* Lady Stourton, a descendant of the Fromonds, rebuilt the chapel in 1750, but the floor was not disturbed. In the chancel, which has been left standing, are monuments to the memory of John, Lord Lumley, who died in 1609 ; t of his first wife Jane, eldest daughter and coheiress of Henry Fitz-Alan, Earl of Arundel, who died in 1577 ; and of his second wife Elizabeth, daughter of John, Lord D'Arcy, of Chiche. Lord Lumley's monument is on the north side of the chancel : it is of white marble, supported by two columns of the Corinthian order; and on the sides are sculptured and emblazoned the armorial bearings of the Lumleys, and of the families with whom they had intermarried, on nineteen shields. On it is the family motto of the Lumleys : — "Murus seneus eonscientia sana." On a marble tablet below is a very long Latin inscription tracing the family of the Lumleys from their Anglo-Saxon origin until the decease of Lord Lumley in 1609. J * John Yerde bequeathed his estates in Surrey, after the death of his wife, to his second son John, to whom, also, he left " 400 muttons ; 20s. to the repair of the church ; and 20s. to the high altar." — Regist. Lamb. Stafford, f. 188, b. + Of the above nobleman Camden says, " He was one of entire virtue, integrity, and innocence ; and in his old age, a complete pattern of true nobihty. Having so great a veneration for the memory of his ancestors that he caused monu ments to be erected for them, in the coUegiate church of Chester le Street (opposite Lumley Castle) in the order as they succeeded one another, from Liulphus down to his own time; which he had either picked out of the demolished monasteries, or made new." He was High Steward of the University of Oxford ; and, having a taste for literature, he collected a fine library, in which he was assisted by his brother-in-law, Humphrey Lloyd. After his death the books were purchased by King James, and they became the foundation of the Royal Library, which now forms part of the cohection in the British Museum. X This monument, with its inscriptions, is engraved in Sandford's " Genealogical History." The inscriptions are also preserved in Lysons's " Environs," vol. i. p. 141, and in Manning and Bray's " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 474. Liulph, the ancestor of the Lumleys, was a baron of great consideration in the time of Edward the Confessor. According to Dugdale, Camden, and others, the farmly took its surname from Lumley Castle, on the Wear, at the com mencement of the Norman era. John, Lord Lumley, to whom this note refers, was the only son of the Honourable George Lumley, attainted and executed for high treason in 29 Henry VIII. : on his own death, without surviving issue, CHEAM. 3°5 The monument of Jane, Lady Lumley, Lord Lumley's first wife, a woman greatly distinguished by learning and talent,* is on the south side of the chancel. In the upper part is the effigy of the deceased, kneeling, in basso relievo. Beneath is a large altar tomb of marble and alabaster, covered with a slab of black marble (fractured). On the front, in two compartments, are the two sons and the daughter of the deceased, richly sculptured in alabaster, kneeling. At each end are the arms and quarterings of Fitz-Alan and Lumley. At the top is a horse with a branch of a tree in his mouth, a crest of Fitz-Alan ; and below, in a small oval, is St. George on foot fighting with the dragon. At each corner is a hawk. The monument of Lord Lumley's second wife, Elizabeth, daughter of John, Lord D'Arcy, of Chiche, is within a recess, and comprises the effigy of the deceased, in alabaster, lying at full length. At the head and feet are the arms of Lumley and D'Arcy ; above is a brief inscription, f There are also several memorials of the Fromond family. Amongst others is a brass plate (imperfect) on which is a representation of the Father crowned, in the act of blessing, with his left hand on a crucifix, and the dove hovering about his head ; also a man and a woman (the latter with a head-dress resembling that of Margaret Gaynsford at Carshalton), each before an altar, attended by six sons and four daughters, with the following inscription: — $haj> tax the sontlea of TUtomas rjfroimmb fexptjier. anb (Elizabeth his tojrfEe, banflhter anb bzvzx oi John Uerbe Ssqnser, tohicfw Thomas bzzzes^b the x.xtst bag oi Jttsrehe, the jer of or |Dorb (Sob 4JSFB' £$£&!, anb in the xxxtiid sere of the reggne of P-gngc Derarj) the ^JEHtft. ©n toho«e sonUes Jl'hn habe merej), a. Also various handsome memorials of the Bybus and Small families. One of these, an urn of yellow marble partly covered with white, commemorates Ann, Lady Fletcher, second daughter of John Pybus, Esq., and widow of Brigadier-General Sir Eobert the new barony of Lumley expired. Sir Richard Lumley, who inherited under his wUl, was created, in 1628, Viscount Lumley of Waterford. He was the great-great-great-grandfather of John Lumley Savile Saunderson, late Earl of Scarbrough. * She translated the Iphigenia of Euripedes, and some of the Orations of Isocrates, into Enghsh, and one of the latter into Latin. The manuscripts are in the British Museum. ( Vide Walpole, " Royal and Noble Authors ; " Lysons, " Environs," vol. i. p. 144.) In the latter work is an engraving of the upper compartment of the monument, including the figure of Lady Lumley. t By deed, dated 1597, made between John, Lord Lumley, ofthe one part, and WUliam Fromond and other inhabitants of Cheam, of the other part, his lordship states that " he had caused three monuments to be erected in West Cheam, for himself, Lady Jane his wife deceased, and Lady Ehzabeth then his wife ; he hopes they may be preserved, and that there is not any person of godly disposition, humour, or condition, who will deface, destroy, or take away the same ; and in consideration that the clerk be careful to sweep and rub the said monuments, and that the parson shall caU on the clerk to perform this, and for rehef of the poor, he grants to Fromond and the others a yearly rent-charge of 40s. issuing out of his estate here, to be paid at Lady-day only in every year; of which 6s. 8d. was to be paid to the parson, 13s. 4d. to the clerk, and 2s. a piece to 10 poor people." This trust was said, by Manning, to have been renewed. It does not appear that these interesting memorials have suffered from either neglect or Ul-treatment, though the hand of time is busy with them. VOL. III. R R 306 HISTORY OF SURREY. Fletcher, Knt., Commander-in-chief of the British Forces on the coast of Coromandel. She died in 1791, and her remains were interred in the vault of the Bybus family. In the middle of the south aisle, on descending the steps from Fromond's Chapel,* is a stone, the central brass of which is gone ; but there are two shields remaining, with chevrons and fleurs-de-lis, and a plate inscribed — garth'«s .Jfromonnbea -tfliu© et heres %homz' Jfromonnbe xoxozx bz fithegh'm in eom. -Star. ©en. obiit sseptimo bie Jnlij anno JTiti 1579. t A brass plate has the subjoined inscription, in capitals, and in perfect preservation : — Reader, this marble will consume like the bodies it covers ; but while it endures know that it preserves the memorie of a saint departed, Edmund Barret, Esq. Serjeant of the wine-cellar to King Charles, who rendered his soule to God in the 65,th yeare of his age, Aug. 17, 1631 ; and this portion of sacred earth hath received his body, which is sequestered for the resurrection. He was happy in two wedlocks ; and both were fruitful to him. His former wife, Dorothy Apssley, did bear him three sonns, Thomas, Edmund, and John, and one daughter, Constance. His second wife, Ruth Gausten, brought him three sonns into the world, Robert, Francis, and Edward, and two daughters, Ruth and Margaret: many of these he left behind, and a good name to honour him. His eldest sonne, Thomas Barret, Gent, sometime Clerk of the Wardrobe to King Charles, bequeathed his spirit to Jesus Christ, and his bodie to this same earth, shortly after the decease of his father, for he finished his days Aprill 28, 1632, in the 36 yeare of his age, leaving the sorrow for his departure to many friends, chiefly to his loving wife, Mary Purton, by whom hee had no issue. Thus father and sonn are composed together in the grave of corruption. Loving they were in their lives ; and in their death they are not divided. Reader, praise God for the happy departure of his faithful servants ; and fare thee well. On a black marble in the floor, near the south wall, is an inscription (reflecting honour upon all parties concerned) to the memory of Jane Battinson, waiting-woman to her Grace Diana, first wife of John, Duke of Bedford. In consideration of her faithful services, her noble mistress, on her death-bed in 1735, recommended her to the Duke's favour; and from his Grace she received quarterly, to the day of her death in 1755, an allowance of £500 a year. " Enabled by so generous a benefaction, she testified the goodness of her heart by frequent acts of charity to the poor, by distinguished gratitude to her relations and friends, and liberal donations to many publick societies." Amongst the more modern memorials may be especially mentioned that of the late Philip Antrobus, Esq. (on the south wall of the chancel), of Lower Cheam, of white marble, projecting from a grey marble background, and supported by brackets. His decease in 1816 is recorded on a tablet affixed beneath a sculptured pediment, supported by two fluted columns, as also is that of Sir Edmund Antrobus, Bart., who died in 1826. Also a neat tablet of white marble inscribed to the memory of the Bev. Henry Beach, * Formerly against the north wall, but removed, at the time of the enlargement of the church many years ago, to the left ofthe gaUery over Fromond's Chapel, was a white marble monument to the memory of Fanny Maria Davenport, wife of Richard Davenport, Esq., of Court Garden, in the county of Bucks. In the church and churchyard are numerous memorials of the Sanxay famUy, long settled at Cheam, and connected by blood with that of Antrobus. t Jane, one of the daughters of Bartholomew Fromond, married the celebrated Dr. Dee. CHEAM. 307 thirty -three years rector of this parish, who died in 1813; of his wife, a daughter, and two sons. Two other white marble tablets, exactly corresponding in size and style, commemorate John Antrobus, Esq., who died in 1813, and Clement Kynnersley, Esq., of Loxley Park, in the county of Stafford, and of Carshalton, in Surrey, who died in 1815, and his daughter, wife of Thomas Sneyd, Esq., of Loxley Park, who died in 1808. The brasses discovered in 1864, when the old church was pulled down, are described in a paper of the Surrey Archaeological Society. In the churchyard, near the north side of the tower, is an obelisk within rails, marking the burial-place of the Farmer family. On the south side of the churchyard is a black marble tomb covering the remains of Henry Neal, of Christiana his wife, and of their daughter, Eliza Dutton. The inscription is interesting only from its reference to the fact that the daughter, " Eliza Dutton, was murdered, in 1687, by her neighbour, while endeavouring to make peace between him and his wife." Here lyes the best of wives, of mothers, and of friends, Whose soul, too good for earth, in heaven attends, With joy and comfort till the day of doome, When all her virtuous deeds shaU thither come : To save her neighbour she has spilt her blood, And hke her Saviour died for doing good. May that curs'd hand forget itseh to feed That made its benefactour thus to bleed ! In 1868 the Eev. E. C. S. Tabor, of Cheam School, built on his premises a beautiful chapel, from designs by Carpenter, which is used daily during term under license from the Bishop. In 1876 St. Bhilip's Church, on Cheam Common, was consecrated as a chapel-of-ease ; it contains 300 sittings, which are free and open. This church was intended for the use of a large working population which was springing up within the last twelve years on the north side of the parish, a mile or two from the parish church, and principally in the immediate neighbourhood'of Worcester Bark station. National and Sunday schools, for Cheam and Cuddington, were estabhshed here by voluntary subscriptions in 1826. Archdale Balmer, Esq., of North Cheam Bark, gave the ground for the building, and was also a liberal contributor to the cost of the foundation. About 150 boys and girls are educated here, the schoolmaster and mistress enjoying a liberal salary, with an excellent house and garden. At the time of the incorporation, of the parish of Cheam with the Epsom Union, sundry tenements called almshouses, in the hands of the churchwardens and overseers E r 2 3o8 HISTORY OF SURREY. for the time being, and occupied by the parish poor, were sold to assist in discharging the expense of incorporation. In 1869 the Barochial Booms were built in the centre of the village. These contain school accommodation for 160 ; also a working man's reading-room. Near the church is an ancient timber-built house to which tradition gives a date (erro neously we conceive) of more than four hundred years. It is known by the name of White hall House ; and one of its rooms, called the Council Chamber, is said to have been used by Queen Elizabeth when at the palace of Nonsuch, in Cuddington, for State purposes.* During the time of the great plague in 1666 several persons sent their children to Cheam to a gentleman who kept a small school in Whitehall House. The school afterwards became eminent, and amongst those educated there was Dr. Charles Davenant, son of Sir William Davenant the poet. The establishment appears to have existed continuously down to the time when the master, the Eev. Dr. Sanxay, built the present school on a lease of ninety-nine years, which expired about 1818. It is a substantial, well-located residence, with large, lofty, and airy rooms. The pupils were successfully educated by Dr. Mayo on the Pestalozzian system, and under him the school attained great celebrity. One of the masters, the Eev. Wm. Gilpin, was the lineal descendant of the celebrated Bernard Gilpin, who lived in the times of Elizabeth, Mary, and Edward VI. , and was termed the " Northern Apostle." William Gilpin was born at Carlisle in 1724, and he received his education at Queen's College, Oxford. He published the " Life of Bernard Gilpin," his ancestor; the "Lives of Latimer, Wickliff, Huss, and Cranmer;" an " Exposition of the New Testament ; " "Observations relative to Bicturesque Beauty;" a "Tour to the Lakes;" " Bemarks on Forest Scenery;" "Sermons to a Country Congregation;" " Moral Contrasts ; " the "Life of John Trueman and Eichard Atkins, for the Use of Servants' Halls, Farmhouses, and Cottages," &c. He died in 1804, leaving the profits of his publications for the endowment of a school, at Boldre. Sawrey Gilpin, the well-known animal painter, who died in 1807, was his youngest brother. * Beneath a portion of the buUding (now removed) was a vault cut out of the sand rock, 27 feet in length, 14 in breadth, and 1 1 in height, with a descent of twenty steps. It was arched at the top with brick : at its extremity was another flight' of steps leading to a smaller vault, or cave. The origin of these vaults, stUl partiaUy in existence, and employed for menial purposes, is uncertain ; but there is an idle tradition that one Mr. Bovey, who lived in the house, and who died about 1700, made use of them for the coining of money : it is added, by way of corroboration, that he spent great part of his time in them, and that he paid aU his bills in new coin ! Upwards of a hundred years ago, according to Manning and Bray, a bricklayer, in repairing the pavement of the wash-house belonging to WhitehaU House, found a vault arched over, and in it an hon chest, which he earned away, telling the owner that there was nothing in it ; but, from being a poor man, he soon after bought houses at Sutton. There is a monument in the church to the memory of James Bovey, Esq., who died in 1695, and his wife Margaretta, who died in 1714. MITCHAM. 3°9 Henry Bestalozzi, the originator of a new system of education, was born at Zurich in 1745. His method turns on the idea of communicating all instruction by immediate address to the sensations or conceptions, and effecting the mental formation of the pupil by constantly calling all his powers into exercise. Bestalozzi commenced his career of instruction by the admission of the children of the poor into his house, and in 1798 the Directory of SAvitzerland invited him to establish a house at Stanz, where he became the instructor of eighty poor children. War destroyed this establishment, and Bestalozzi then took charge of a school at Burgdorf. This institution flourished, and in 1804 he removed it to Yverdun, in the Canton de Vaud, where he occupied the castle given to him by the Government, and resumed his labours for the instruction of the higher and middle classes of society. He died in 1827. A brief memoir of his life is inserted in the Gentleman's Magazine for the above year. MITCHAM. The straggling, scattered village of Mitcham, designated Michelham, or the Great Dwelling,* in the Doomsday survey, is bounded on the north by Merton, on the east by Streatham, on the south by Croydon, and on the west by Mordon. The soil is principally a rich black mould, and for upwards of a hundred years an extensive portion of the land has been appropriated to the culture of medicinal plants. At the time of the Doomsday survey there appear to have been five manors in the parish ; there are now only three — Mitcham, or Canon ; Biggin and Tamworth ; and Eavensbury. The following extracts from the Doomsday Book will be found to refer to the respective manors : — "In Waleton hundred, the Canons of Baieux hold of the Bishop (Odo) Michelham as 5 hides. Brictric held it of King Edward. He had 6^ hides ; but Otbert had possession of 1 hide, which his predecessor held of Brictric, as security for half a mark of gold. In the land of the Canons are four villains, and one cottar, with 2 carucates; and one bondman, and 40 acres of meadow. The arable land amounts to 2 carucates. It was and is valued at 40s. In the land of Otbert are 4 acres of meadow, worth 7s. ; and nothing further. " Ansgot holds half a hide of the Bishop. It is valued at 5s. " In the same manor, the Canons hold of the Bishop 1\ hides, which two men held of * In early records, and in many of more recent date, it is written Miccham, or Micham: the present mode of spelling, which is further from its etymology, was not universaUy adopted earlier than the middle of the last century. HISTORY OF SURREY. 31 King Edward. There is in the demesne 1 carucate ; with one villain, and two bordars ; and one bondman; and half a carucate (of arable land), and 12 acres of meadow. It has always been valued at 20s. " William (Fitz-Ansculf) holds Michelham, which Lemar held of King Edward. Then, as at present, it was assessed at 2 hides, and 1 virgate. There are two villains, and six cottars ; and half a mill, at 20s. In the time of King Edward it was valued at 40s. : now at the same : when received, at 13s. 4d. " The Canons of Baieux also hold of the Bishop Witford,* which Edmer held of King Edward. It was then, as at present, assessed at 3 hides. The arable land is 2 carucates. There is 1 carucate in the demesne ; and two villains, and six cottars, with 2 carucates, and 4 acres of meadow. It has been valued in the time of King Edward, and now, at 30s. : when received, at 10s. "William Fitz-Ansculf holds Witford; and William the Chamberlain holds it of him. Lanch held it of King Edward, when it was assessed at 2 hides: now at 1. The arable land is ... . One carucate is in the demesne; and there are two villains, with 1 carucate ; and a mill at 20s. ; and 24 acres of meadow. In the time of King Edward it was A'alued at 50s. : afterwards at 22s. : now at 60s." The manors of Michelham and Witford, held by the Canons of Bayeux, are supposed by Manning to have been retained by them until the reign of Edward III., who, on declaring war against France in 1338, confiscated all the estates belonging to alien priories and abbeys in this country, and gave Mitcham to the Brior of St. Mary Overy, in South- Avark. On the suppression of monasteries in the reign of Henry VIII., this estate, falling into the hands of the King, was granted by letters-patent to Nicholas Spakman and Christopher Harbottell, citizens of London. In 1552 they conveyed the estate to Lawrence Warren, by whom it was sold in the following year to Nicholas Burton, of Carshalton. In 1619 Sir Henry Burton, K.B., the grandson of Nicholas, transferred (by sale) the manor of Mitcham, or Canon, with the rectory and advowson, to Sir Nicholas Carew, alias Throckmorton, whose son and heir, Sir Francis, in 1645 settled it on his daughter Eebecca on her marriage with Thomas Temple, Esq. ; and in 1647, in conjunction Avith his son-in-law, he mortgaged the estate to Thomas Hamond, Esq. In 1656 and 1657 the parties joined in a sale to Eobert Cranmer (said to have descended from the family of Archbishop Cranmer), of London, merchant, who in 1659 purchased the parsonage (or manor-house), which had been separated from the rest of the estate. Mr. * Between Upper and Lower Mitcham is Wykford (or Witford) Lane ; but of the manors of Witford there are no other traces remaining. (Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 495.) MITCHAM. 3" Cranmer died in 1665, and his grandson, James Cranmer, Esq., left this property to his sister, Esther Maria, wife of Captain Dixon, for her life, with remainder to her son, the Bev. Eichard Dixon, who assumed the surname of Cranmer ; and to him the Mitcham estate belonged in 1809. It is now the property of William Simpson, Esq., who, with James Bridger, Esq., is joint lord of the manor. The Manor of Biggin and Tamworth. — This was probably one of the manors held by Fitz-Ansculf at the time of the Doomsday survey. The fee afterwards belonged to the Clares and their successors, Earls of Gloucester, for Hugh de Audele, Earl of Gloucester in right of his wife Margaret de Clare, died seized of it in 1347 ; but it was held as of the honour of Gloucester by the Prior and Canons of Merton. Soon after the suppression of that priory Henry VIII. granted the manors of Byggin and Tamworth, with other lands and tenements, to Eobert Wylford, citizen of London, and Joan his wife. She appears to have survived her husband, and is supposed to have remarried John, Lord Mordaunt, lord of the manor in 1567. After belonging successively to the families of Whitney, Carew, Caryll, Thurland, and Manship, this estate was purchased, in or about 1750, by James Moore, Esq., chief proprietor of the extensive plantations of medicinal herbs at Mitcham.* The Manor of Bavensbury. — This appears to have been the same with the manor of Witford, held, according to the Doomsday record, of William Fitz-Ansculf by William the Chamberlain. In the reign of Henry III. Alexander de Witford held one knight's fee in Mitcham of Boger de Somerie as of the honour of Dudley, formerly the principal seat of the Fitz-Ansculf family. In 1250 William de la Marc was lord of the manor, which seems to have been retained by the same family for more than a century. Sir Nicholas Carreu had a grant of free- warr en in all his demesne lands here in 1375. Sir John Burghersh, Knt., held land at Mitcham called Allmannesland, with the manor of Bavensbury, in 15 Eichard II. ; and John Arundell, Esq., in right of his marriage with Margaret, eldest daughter of Sir John, held the same manor and land in 2 Henry VI. * The manor belonged, in the reign of Henry VIE, to John de la Bole, Earl of Lincoln, after whose attainder it was granted to Simon Digby. Subsequently it became the property of Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, who in 1531 sold it to Sir Nicholas Carew; and it has since been transferred with Beddington, the trustees of the late Capt. Charles H. Carew, B.N., son of Admiral Sir Benjamin Hallowell Carew, being the present owners. This parish is divided into Upper and Lower Mitcham, between which is a lane called Whitford Lane, the only trace now remaining of what was formerly called Wykford or * Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 498. t " Calend. Inquis. post Mortem," vol. iii. p. 133, and vol. iv. p. 79. 3,2 HISTORY OF SURREY. Witford. The run of water from the common at one time formed a washway through that part of the village to Merton, but it has been long since covered over. Figge's Marsh, a small common here at the entrance from London, derives its name from William Figge, who in the time of Edward III. was owner of part of the land held of the King by the service of finding a pound in Avhich to keep his distresses.* Mitcham, "noted," say the biographers of Dr. Donne, f "for good air and choice company," has been at different times the residence of several persons of consideration. Sir Walter Ealeigh had a house and estate here in right of his wife Elizabeth, daughter of Sir 'Nicholas Carew, alias Throckmorton, who had been Maid of Honour to Queen Elizabeth. He sold the property when he went on his expedition to Guiana. His mansion Avas at the corner of Whitford Lane, and was formerly known, while occupied as a board ing-school, by the name of Ealeigh House. Sir Julius Caesar, Master of the Bolls, also had a residence here ; and in 1598 he was honoured by a visit from Queen Elizabeth, which he thus recorded : — "Tuesday, Sept. 12, the Queen visited my house at Mitcham, and supped and lodged there, and dined the next day. I presented her with a gown of cloth of silver richly embroidered ; a black net-work mantle with pure gold ; a taffeta hat, white, with several flowers, and a jewel of gold set therein with rubies and diamonds. Her Majesty removed from my house after dinner the 13th of September to Nonsuch, with exceeding good content ment ; which entertainment of her Majesty, with the former disappointment [believed to have been an expected visit from the Queen in September, 1596, but which was not made], amounted to £700 sterling, besides mine own provisions, and what was sent by my friends." % * Escheats, 23 Edward III. p. 2, n. 15. t Of the celebrated Dr. Donne, Dean of St. Paul's, who lived eome time at Mitcham, copious and very curious particulars may be found in the " Biographia Britannica," and in FuUer's " England's Worthies." Dryden said he was " the greatest wit, though not the greatest poet, of our nation ; " and Dr. Johnson termed him the founder of the meta physical school of poetry. Dr. John Barwick, in hi3 " Life of Bishop Morton," states that he saw a portrait of Donne at Lincoln's Inn, " aU enveloped with a darkish shadow, his face and features hardly discernible, with this ejaculation and wish written thereon, ' Domine iUumina tenebras meas ; ' and that this wish was afterwards accomphshed, when, at the persuasion of King James, he entered into holy orders." Granger also teUs us that, "some time before his death, when he was emaciated with study and sickness, he caused himself to be wrapped up in a sheet, which was gathered over his head, in the manner of a shroud ; and having closed his eyes, he had his portrait taken ; which was kept by his bed-side, as long as he hved, to remind him of mortality. The effigy on his monument, in (old) St. Paul's church, was done after this portrait." (See Dugdale's History of that Cathedral, p. 62.) Ob. March 31st, 1631. Another phenomenon in the hterary world, an inhabitant of Mitcham, was Moses Mendez, a rich poet (!) of Jewish extraction. He is said to have been the son of a stockbroker, or notary. Educated at Oxford, he took the degree of M.A. in 1750. At the time of his death, in 1758, he was reported to be worth £100,000. He was the intimate friend of the author of " The Seasons," and he himself wrote four little dramatic pieces — The Chaplet, The Shepherd's Lottery, Robin Hood, and The Double Disappointment, besides a poem caUed " Henry and Blanche," &c. Some of his productions are to be found in Dodsley's CoUection. X Manuscript of Sir Juhus Csesar, Brit. Mus. No. 4160, Ayscough's Catalogue. Sir Juhus Csesar, descended, by the female line, from the Duke de Ceesarini, in Italy, is said to have been " not only one of the best civUians, but also one of MITCHAM. 3*3 Mitcham Grove, a villa on the north side of the road leading to Sutton, with a branch of the river Wandle meandering through its plantations, was purchased by Lord Clive, and presented to Sir Alexander Wedderburn (afterwards Lord Chancellor Loughborough), in return for his celebrated defence of that nobleman in the House of Commons. Lord Loughborough sold it to Henry Hoare, Esq., from Avhom it passed to Sir John William Lubbock, Bart. It is now the residence of John H. Stanton, Esq. An object of some interest to the antiquary is an ancient house in this parish, formerly the property of Mrs. Sarah Chandler. This house, in Avhich are the remains of a chapel, is conjectured to have been, at a very early period, the property of Henry Strete, " who had a license for an oratory in his house at Mitcham in 1348. It is held under the Dean and Chapter of Canterbury, and its proprietors claim a right to the north aisle of the church." * This benefice is a vicarage, in the deanery of Ewell and diocese of Eochester. The advowson belonged to the priory of St. Mary Overy as early as 1260, when a fine was levied on it to the prior and convent. In 1315 they are said to have held it as of the honour of Gloucester. After the dissolution both the rectory and the advowson of the vicarage were granted with the manor of Mitcham Canon. The great tithes were sold by Eobert Cranmer, Esq., as mentioned in a preceding page ; but the vicarage remained with the manor. In the Valor of Edward I. the rectory Avas valued at 20 marks, the vicarage at 8. In the King's books Mitcham is reckoned amongst the discharged livings, and is rated at £10 0s. lOd. In 1734 the Bev. Dr. Monckton gave £200, and in 1735 Mr. Chas. Dubois gave £200, to purchase Queen Anne's bounty. Lysons states that the income of the vicarage has been much improved of late years by the extension of the " physic gardens," the tithes of Avhich constitute a principal part of its revenues. The village of Mitcham, which is of considerable extent, is partly situated on the skirts of the high-road leading from London to Beigate. A small bridge crosses the Wandle near Mitcham Grove. Belonging to this parish are several Eegisters, commencing with 1558, and nearly complete from that date. Among the entries are the tAvo following : — Anne the daughter of George Washford, who had twenty-four fingers and toes; baptized Oct. 19, 1690. Widow Durant, aged one hundred and three years, buried Sep. 23, 1711. the best men of his time. He died in 1639, and was buried in the church of Great St. Helen's, near Bishopsgate, London. His monument, designed by himself, represents a scroll of parchment. The inscription, in which he engages himself willingly to pay the debt of nature to his Creator, is in the form of a bond ; appendant to which is his seal, a coat of arms, with his name affixed." — Granger, Biographical History, vol. i. p. 390. * In support of tins claim, it appears that the family of Hlyngworth, buried in the north aisle in the sixteenth century, held a house and lands under the church of Canterbury in the time of Edward IV. (Escheats, 16 Edw. IV. No. 30.) For an account of some brasses and inscriptions (now lost) of the Illyngworths in the north aisle see Aubrey, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 144 ; also Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 503. VOL. III. S S 3H HISTORY OF SURREY. Vicars of Mitcham in and since 1800 : — l.Streynsham Derbyshire Myers, MA. Instituted in 1779. 2.— Richard Cranmer, LL.B. Instituted in 1824. 3.— James Henry Mapleton, B.LL. Instituted in 1829. 4 _ James Cowles Prichard, M.A. Instituted in 1833. '5.- -Henry James Wharton, M.A. Instituted in 1846. 6. — Daniel Frederic Wilson, M.A. Instituted in 1859. The old church, dedicated to St. Beter and St. Baul, was built chiefly of flint. It consisted of nave, two aisles, and a chancel, with a square embattled toAver croAvned with a turret at the east end of the south aisle. In 1637, according to Aubrey, it was greatly injured by lightning, and had ten bells melted.* The old church remained until the present century, when, from the increase of the population, it became desirable to raise a new structure upon an enlarged scale. Accord ingly an Act of Barliament Avas obtained for the purpose, and in 1819 the first stone marking the boundary of the church northward was laid by the Bev. S. D. Myers, M.A., the vicar. The building, the estimate for which was £8,000, was completed in 1822. By an enlargement of the ground- plan additional sittings Avere obtained for 555 persons. The rebuilding of the church is further commemorated by the following inscription on the north side ofthe chancel : — In token of respect, gratitude, and affection to one of the most excellent of mothers, Mrs. Hester Maria Cranmer, late patroness of this vicarage church of Mitcham, who died the 17th of January, 1819, and with whom the rebuilding of this sacred edifice originated, this stone was laid on the 27th of August, 1819, by the present impropriator, the Rev. Richard Cranmer, LL.B. George Smith, architect. John Chart, builder. The boundary of this chancel extends thirty-four feet seven inches westward from the centre of this stone. The present church, a large and heavy structure in the pointed style of architecture, consists of nave and side aisles, chancel, north aisle, and an embattled tower. Excepting the lower part of the tower, a relic of the ancient edifice, and composed of flint, the materials are what builders technically term " brick and compo." The tower, which stands at the east end of the south aisle, and contains eight bells, is in four stories, Avith octa gonal buttresses, terminating in crocheted stone pinnacles, with large finials : its finish is a pierced battlement.y * It is stated by Aubrey that thirteen churches in the county of Surrey suffered more or less from the same storm. ("Surrey," vol. ii. p. 143.) + On the right of the entrance to the tower from the south is a relic of " the olden time." It consists of a pointed niche in the wall, divided into two compartments by a shelf. In the lower compartment was a piscina ; in the upper a lamp was accustomed to be kept burning. MITCHAM. 3i5 Exteriorly the south aisle is formed into five divisions by buttresses : in the western most is a doorway ; in the remainder are windows of three lights each, with a transom in the sweep of the arch : the arches of the respective windows spring from grotesque heads. The north side of the church is similar to the south, excepting the tower, instead of which are pointed windows. The clerestory of the nave has four small windows of two lights each, with cinquefoil heads. Beneath the great west window, in a recess formed by a large pointed arch, is a monument to the memory of Sir Ambrose Crowley, Alderman of London, and his lady, the former of whom died in 1713, the latter in 1727.* The interior of this church is remarkably neat, and more in accordance with the principles of good taste than the exterior. The nave is divided from the aisles by four pointed arches resting upon columns, formed by a union of cylinders with plain capitals. Three of the cylinders of each column rise to the roof, which is groined, and adorned with bosses of foliage, &c. At the west end, where the organ is placed, and on the north and south sides of the nave, are galleries : the south aisle is broken by the tower. The chancel, divided from the nave by a narrow pointed arch, has a gallery on the north side. The altar-piece consists of four pointed panels, inscribed with the decalogue, creed, &c. The pulpit is hexagonal, and painted in imitation of wainscot, corresponding with the galleries and pews. The font, a square stone basin supported by four small pillars, is ornamented with tracery in the pointed style. Nearly all the monuments in the old church, chiefly of a mural character, have been transferred to the present structure. In the church are memorials of the Tate family, who for several generations were great benefactors of the parish. One in the north aisle, to Mrs. Elizabeth Tate, who died in 1821, is by Westmacott, and represents a female figure, with a cup in the left hand, and pointing to the skies with the right. Nearly adjoining is an elegant table of white marble in memory of George Tate, Esq., who died in 1822. Among the tombs in the churchyard is that of Mrs. Anne Hallam, a favourite actress of the early part of last century, celebrated by her performance of Lady Macbeth and Lady Touchwood. She died in 1740. A new ecclesiastical district (Christ Church) was formed here in 1872. It contains a population of about 1,000, and the living, valued at £300 with house, is in the gift of Mr. and Mrs. W- J. Harris. * In the old church this monument occupied a space in the north chancel. In ridicule of the bribery resorted to hi City elections, Sir Richard Steele, in the 73rd number of the Tatler, fired off a squib at the expense of Sir Ambrose Crowley, under the name of Sir Humphrey Greenhat. S S 2 3,6 HISTORY OF SURREY. Mitcham, as will be seen by the subjoined list, enjoys various benefactions : — ¦ 1626. Henry Smith, Esq., of London, gave £A per annum, which is laid out in great-coats, and given every Christmas, by the churchwardens, to six poor housekeepers not receiving alms.* 1639. Thomas Plummer, Esq., left £4 per annum, which is laid out in bread, and given at the church every Sunday morning, by the churchwardens, to the poor of the parish. 1709. Mrs. Ellen Fisher, of Hammersmith, left £200 to be laid out in lands of inheritance, the rent thereof being ,£14 per annum, to be given every Whit-Monday, by the minister, churchwardens, and trustees, to 24 poor housekeepers not receiving alms. 1792.- Mrs. Rosamond Oxtoby left £2 12s. per annum, to be laid out in bread, and distributed at the church every Sunday morning, by the churchwardens, to the poor of the parish. 1815. Mrs. Rebecca Cranmer left £400, 3 per cent. Consols, to the minister and churchwardens on trust, the dividends to be expended in the purchase of certain articles of clothing, for six poor widows of the parish, annually on St. Thomas's day. 1817. Mrs. Ann Tate left £500 ; and, in 1821, her sister, Ehzabeth Tate, left £1,000, to be laid out in stock ; the dividends to be expended in the purchase of provisions, to be distributed annually, on Christmas eve, amongst the poor of the parish not receiving alms. In 1782 a large workhouse was built on the side of Mitcham Common at the expense of £1,200. A Sunday school was established here on an extensive plan, and a school- house built in 1788. In 1829 a row of almshouses, in the style prevalent in the latter part of the sixteenth century, from designs by Buckler, was built, at the expense of Miss Tate, on the south side of the Lower Green. These houses were endowed by the founder for twelve poor Avidows or unmarried women of respectable character, members of the Church of England. There are one or two Dissenting places of worship at Mitcham, but none of any importance MORDON, or MORDEN. The parish of Mordon (anciently written Mordone, or Mordune, from mor and dune, signifying a hill) is bounded on the north by Merton, on the east by Mitcham, on the south by Carshalton, and by Cheam and Maiden on the west. The soil is a stiff clay, and the land partly arable and partly meadow. In the Doomsday Book the manor is described among the lands of the monks of Westminster, viz. :— " The Abbot of St. Beter, Westminster, holds Mordone, which in the time of King Edward, was assessed at 12 hides ; now at 3 hides. The arable land amounts to There are 3 carucates in the demesne; and eight villains, and five cottars, with 4 carucates. There is one bondman; and a mill, at 40s. In the time of King Edward it was valued at £6, now at £10, and yet it is worth £15 " (or it produces £15). the W K^"f^ey'" V°L "' P- 142> has S™ <™^ to the idle tale that " in the diffusive Charity bestowed on he nh b IC i ^ "y' ^ T°Wa Was eicePted ^ ^. Smith, because he was whipp'd as a common Vagrant by the Inhabitants here," to which the above announcement is an effectual refutation MORDON. 3'7 This manor belonged to the Abbey of Westminster prior to the Conquest, and is mentioned among the monastic estates in the charter of confirmation granted by Edward the Confessor, as also in the charters of William I. and Edward I. At the dissolu tion the manor became vested in the Crown, and remained so until 7 Edward VL, when it was granted under letters-patent to Lionel Ducket and Edward Whitchurch, of whom it was purchased by Eichard Garth, Esq., in 1553. From him the estate descended to Eichard Garth, Avho died in 1641, seized of the manor, mansion, and lands here, and of other messuages and estates at Merton, Maldon, and Carshalton, leaving a son and heir, George Garth, Esq., who married first Anne, sister and coheiress of Sir George Carlton, Bart., who died in 1655, and secondly Jane, daughter of Sir Humphrey Bennet, Knt., who survived him, he having died in 1676, and his widow in 1699. By his first wife Mr. Garth had Eichard, his successor iu this estate, and several daughters ; by his second he had a son named Henry, and a daughter, Elizabeth : the latter became the wife of Samuel Gawden, Esq., and after his decease of William Gardiner, Esq., whom she also outlived, and, dying in 1719, gave by will the sum of £300 for the foundation and support of a school for poor children belonging to this parish. Eichard Garth, Esq., a descendant of George Garth above mentioned, died in 1787, leaving three daughters. He devised his estates to his eldest daughter, Clara, Avife of Owen Butland Meyrick, Esq., with remainder to her second son, and, in default of such son, with similar remainders to his daughter Elizabeth, wife of William Lowndes Stone, Esq., and to his youngest daughter, Mary, Avife of Sir John Frederick, Bart, Clara, Mr. Meyrick' s wife, dying without issue male, the estate descended in 1837 to Eichard, second son of William Lowndes Stone, Esq., and Elizabeth his wife, who upon his succession assumed the name and arms of Garth. It is stated, but erroneously, in the Liber Begis, that the patronage of the living is alternately in the Garths and the Trittons ; it has been invariably in the Garths from the reign of Queen Mary. The old manor-house, about a mile eastward from the church, is now called Mordon Hall, and is the residence of Gilliat Hatfeild, Esq. An estate here appears to haA'e belonged to Isabella de Caron in the time of King John, for in the fifth year of his reign she obtained a charter for the right of free-warren in her lands at Mordon. There was also an estate called Spital, held, before the Beformation, by the Brior of Merton, which Queen Elizabeth, in 1602, granted in fee to John and Thomas Eoche. Eichard Garth, Esq., died seized of it in 1641, and left it to be sold for the payment of his debts and legacies. The manor now belongs to Sir Eichard Garth, Chief Justice of Bengal, and formerly M.B. for Guildford. The Brior of Leedes (in Kent) had lands at Mordon. 3,8 HISTORY OF SURREY. John Ewart, Esq., erected a handsome house, and enclosed land for a paddock, which he held on lease for a long term of Mr. Garth. Having purchased Bysshe Court, in the parish of Horne, in 1788, he sold his house and grounds at this place, which afterwards belonged to Thomas Conway, Esq., subsequently to Edward Bolhill, Esq., and more recently to George Cooper Bidge, Esq. It is now the residence of John Wormald, Esq. This estate, known as Mordon Bark, lies to the north-west of the church. The house is seated on an eminence, amidst extensive pleasure grounds, diversified by plantations, sheets of water, and other objects. Advowson, &c. — This living is a rectory in the deanery of Ewell, and in the Valor of Edward I. it is valued at 20 marks. In 1283 the monks of Westminster attempted an appropriation of the benefice, but were unable to accomplish that object until 1300 : in 1331 they endowed it as a vicarage, with a house, a garden, 13 acres of arable land, and 1 acre of meadow'. At the dissolution it was granted with the manor, and has been held by the Garth family nearly three centuries. In 1631, B. Garth, Esq., as stated by Lysons ("Environs," vol. i. p. 363), " converted the vicarage into a rectory, by endowing il with the great tithes and 14 acres of glebe." In the Liber Begis the living is charged at £7 12s. lid., paying for procurations and synodals 8s. 9d. The area of the parish comprises 1,460 acres, of the ratable value of £7,660. The Eegisters, commencing in 1634, were begun by the Eev. William Booth, M.A., the first rector. Rectors of Mordon in and since 1800 : — 1. — John Witherington Peers, D.C.L. Instituted in 1778. 2.— Robert Tritton, M.A. Instituted in 1835. 3. — William Winlaw, of King's College, London. Instituted in 1878. Mordon Church, a long and narrow fabric, dedicated to St. Laurence, was rebuilt with brick about 1636, "probably," as Manning says, "at the expense of Eichard Garth, Esq., who restored the great tithes to the living," and was buried here in 1639. The ancient Avindows, however, which are of stone, and in the pointed style, appear to have been preserved and refixed : that at the east end is designed with much elegance. This building consists of a nave and chancel, with a low embattled tower at the west end (containing three bells), and a small south porch, forming the chief entrance. Here, also, is an elegant stone font of octagonal form, with quatrefoil ornaments sunk in the panels, supported by a pedestal.* The sittings afford accommodation for about 350 persons. * Mr. James Legrew, a pupil of Chantrey, was the artist. MORDON. 3i9 Within this church are numerous monuments, gravestones, and inscriptions on brass to the memory of the Garth, Gardiner, Leheup, Carlton, Meyrick, Lowndes, Batts, Hoare, and other families, but the inscriptions have no general interest. v V ¦> MORDON CHUaCH. In the churchyard are a few old tombs of the Mauvillains, Highlords, and others, and modern burial-places and monuments of the Conway, Bidge, and Tritton families. The benefactions to this parish, as appears from inscriptions in front of the gallery, have been numerous, viz. : — 1625. Henry Smith, Esq., 20s. annually, payable from an estate at Bexhill, Sussex, to be distributed amongst the poor of the parish not receiving alms. 1718. Mrs. Elizabeth Gardiner, widow, by wiU, £300 for buhding and endowing a free school in this her native parish, for the children of the poor. 1731. Mrs. Elizabeth Garth, lady of the manor, gave the land on which the school-house was erected. 1776. Mrs. Ehzabeth Garth, lady of the manor, the interest of £100 Old South Sea Annuities, to increase the salary of the master of the free school founded by Mrs. Elizabeth Gardiner. 1787. Mrs. Mary Garth, of Kensington, Middlesex, spinster, the interest of £100 Old South Sea Annuities, to be divided equally, on Christmas Eve, amongst six poor housekeepers. 1795. Mrs. Elizabeth Gardiner's bequest of £300 for the free school having been increased to £600, the said sum was laid out in the purchase of £895 10s. 6d. Old South Sea Annuities. 1810. Mrs. Mary Batts, of Merton, spinster, £7 10s. annually, to be distributed amongst the poor, not receiving parochial rehef, on Candlemas Day. 1822. John Francis FuUer, Esq., the interest of £125 lis. 9d. to be distributed annually, in meat and peas, amongst the poor. 1825. Owen Putland Meyrick, Esq., the interest of £118 17s. 5d. to be disbursed annually in the same manner. 1826. Edward Polhill, Esq., the interest of £1000, 3 per cent. Consols, for perpetuating the Sunday school. 1827. Mrs. Clara Meyrick, widow, and lady of the manor, £228 18s., the interest of which to be expended annually in the purchase of blankets for distribution amongst the poor at Christmas. The Free School, mentioned above as built by Mrs. Elizabeth Gardiner, daughter of George Garth, Esq., is at a short distance from the church. It was originally founded for 320 HISTORY OF SURREY. the education of twelve children belonging to the parish, but it is now incorporated with the Endowed National School. A Sunday school, instituted in 1791, is supported chiefly by voluntary subscriptions. This parish is incorporated with the Epsom Union. The poor-house, as part of the manorial property, is now let out in tenements. SUTTON. The parish of Sutton (that is, South-town) is bounded on the north by Mordon, on the east by Carshalton, on the south by Banstead, and on the Avest by Cheam. The land is chiefly arable, with extensive downs, on which large numbers of sheep are annually reared. The soil in the northern part is clay ; in the south, chalk, with an intervening narrow tract of sand. At the last survey of the parish the area was estimated at 1,835 acres. Sutton Common has been enclosed since 1810. A portion of it was then sold to the highest bidder, and the proceeds are annually applied to the purchase of coals, and distributed amongst the poor housekeepers, in compensation for their loss of common rights. Bonnell Common, in this parish, is let for the breeding and preservation of game, but the copyholders have the privilege of cutting bushes thereon from Michaelmas to March. There is an extensive chalk-pit on the road from Sutton to Carshalton. The manor is thus described in the Doomsday Book among the lands of the abbot and convent of Chertsey : — " The Abbey holds Sudtone. In the time of King EdAvard, it was assessed at 30 hides ; now at 8i|- hides. The arable land amounts to 15 carucates. There are 2 carucates in the demesne, twenty-one villains, and four cottars, with 13 carucates. There are two churches,* and tAvo bondmen, and 2 acres of meadow. The AVood yields ten swine. In the time of King Edward, it was valued at £20 ; now at £15." The name of Sutton-Abbot was sometimes given to this manor, from its monastic proprietors, Avho, as lords of the fee, had a right to erect a gallows, a pillory, and a cucking- stool. In 1538 the manors of Sutton, Epsom, Coulsdon, and Horley were purchased of the Abbot of Chertsey by Henry VIII., who the same year granted them to Sir Nicholas Carew, of Beddington, but on his attainder they escheated to the Crown. They were granted and transferred, as stated in the account of Coulsdon, f until they came into the possession of Sir Eobert D'Arcy, to whom they were given by his grand-uncle, Sir Francis * Mr. Manning says, though "two churches are mentioned in Domesday, there is no trace of any other than the present one." t See under Coulsdon, p. 259, ante. SUTTON. 32' Carew. D'Arcy died in 1625, leaving a son and heir named Edward, Avho married a daughter of Eichard Evelyn, Esq., of Wotton, but had no surviving issue. This manor must have subsequently reverted to the Crown; for Charles II., in 1663, granted the manor and the advowson of the church to the Earl of Portland, whose brother and successor, Thomas, in 1669, sold Sutton to Sir Eobert Long, from whom it was purchased, in the ensuing month, by Sir Eichard Mason. He died in 1685, leaving two daughters, his coheiresses, one of whom by marriage conveyed the property to the family of Brownlowe, and in 1716 Sir John BroAArnloAve transferred it by sale to Henry Cliffe, Esq., a captain in the service of the East India Company. His son Henry died in 1761, leaving a daughter, his sole heiress, Margaretta Eleanora, who, in 1785, married Thomas Hatch, Esq., of New Windsor. That gentleman died in 1822, and was succeeded by his son, the Eev. Thos. Hatch, M.A., Eector of Walton-upon-Thames, the late lord and also the patron of the church, the advowson having generally gone with the manor. The manor now belongs to Philip Lovett, Esq. There was in this parish a smaller manor, which in the fourteenth century was held under Chertsey Abbey by the family of Codyngton, or De Codyngton. Pope Alexander granted a bull confirming to the Abbey of Chertsey a moiety of the tithes of Sutton, but it does not appear that the appropriation was ever carried into effect. The living, however, paid a pension of 13s. 4d. to the abbey. It is a rectory, in the deanery of Ewell. In 20 Edward I. it was valued at 20 marks ; and it stands in the Liber Eegis at £16 8s. 4d., paying 8s. 5d. for procurations and synodals. Rectors of Sutton in and since 1800 : — 1. — Giles Hatch, M.A. Instituted in 1767. 2. — Charles Gardener, D.D. Instituted in 1800. 3.— Henry Hatch (brother of the Bev. T. Hatch, M.A.). Instituted in 1831. 4. — John Allen Giles, M.A. Instituted in 1867. The church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, was taken down and entirely rebuilt in 1861, at a cost of £6,000. A school was built in this parish in 1854, at a cost of £1,140. The church contains many fine monuments and curious epitaphs, which have been preserved from the old edifice. Among them one to the memory of " Dame Dorothy Brownlowe, wife of Sir William Brownlowe, of Belton, in the county of Lincoln, Bart., eldest daughter and coheiress of Sir Eichard Mason, Knight and Clerk Controller of the Green Cloth to King Charles and James II. ; and of Dame Ann his wife," who died in 1699-1700. The monument exhibits a full-length figure of the deceased, leaning on her VOL. III. T T 322 HISTORY OF SURREY. left arm, with her three children, on a tomb. Two of the children are weeping ; the third is pointing to a glory surrounded with cherubim, &c, on a curtain. On each side is an urn, and on an oval tablet beneath is the inscription. Another remarkable monument represents a woman kneeling before a desk, and behind are her three daughters. On it is this inscription : — • Death to me is gayne. Here underlyeth interred the corps of that vertuous & religious gentlewoman and servant of God, Mrs. Sarah Glover, one of the daughters of Mr. Roger Owfeld, Citizen and Fishmonger of London, late wife of Mr. Joseph Glover, and Rector of Sutton, by whom she had three children, viz. Roger, Ehzabeth, Sarah. She died the 10th of July, 1628, at her age of 30 yeares, in memory of whome, her said husband hath caused this monu ment to be erected, 24 May, An. Dom. 1629. Below the above are the following lines : — This monument presents unto your view, A woman rare, in whom all grace divine, Faith, love, zeale, piety, in splendid hue, With sound knowledge perfectly did shine. Since then examples teach, learne you by this, To mount the stepps of everlasting blisse. There is also a handsome monument inscribed to the memory of William, Earl Talbot, son of the Lord Chancellor, and High Steward of the Household, who died in 1782, and was interred here in the same vault with his mother, Cecil, daughter and heiress of Charles Matthews, Esq., of Castlemerryck, in the county of Glamorgan. This monument consists of a pyramid of black marble, with the armorial bearings of Talbot in white, and the motto, "Humani nihil alienum." At the top is an elegant urn, depressed; below, in white marble, are two flaming censers, placed in saltire across a crown of laurel. Isaac Littlebury, the translator of Herodotus, was buried here, and is commemorated by a tablet. Lysons and others describe a mutilated inscription, partly in French, partly in Latin, on the outside of a north window of the nave. The inscription is now lost, the window referred to having been removed and a larger one fixed in its place. Amongst the rectors of this parish may be mentioned Henry Wyche * and William Stephens, f * " 10 June, 1636, Henry Wyche being a Non Regent Maister of Arts in the University of Cambridge, was inducted by Thomas Pope into the rectory of Sutton June 10th, an. Dom. 1636, after a resignation made of the same rectory by J oseph Glover, who was much beloved of most, if not of all, and his departure lamented by most if not of zW-Parish Register. t In the first leaf of the old Register is the following remarkable entry :-« 7 May 1703, Mem. that this Register of Sutton was carried away into Lincolnshire by Mrs. Wyche, widow of Mr. Henry Wyche, Rector of this parish, and was restored to this parish by Mr. WUham Wyche, son to the said Henry, at the intercession of me William Stephens, now .Kecior ot Sutton Mr. Stephens distinguished himself on various occasions as a political writer against the court. " In i/07 lie pubhshed a Letter to the author of the Memorial of the Church of England, reflecting upon Secretary Harley and SUTTON. 3*3 In 1863 Benhilton, in this parish, was constituted an ecclesiastical district. The church, dedicated to All Saints, Avas consecrated in 1866. It is in the early decorated style, and was built and endowed mainly at the expense of the late Thomas Alcock, Esq., of Kingswood Warren. The benefactions to the parish of Sutton have been numerous : — 1613. Henry Smith, by will, £1 19s. lOd. annually for the poor. 1774. Ehzabeth Stephens, by will, £6 annually, to be distributed amongst poor widows and housekeepers. 1782. Robert Holmes, Esq., an equal sum for the same purpose. 1782. Elizabeth Stephens, £200 stock for cleaning and beautifying the church and chancel, and making good tho public footpaths of the parish. 1789. Mr. AVilliam Beek, £200 South Sea stock, the interest of which to be applied to the education of six poor children of the parish, at the discretion of the rector and churchwardens. 1793. Mrs. Mary Gibson, by will, £500 3 per cent. Consolidated Bank Annuities, to be applied as follows : — £5 to the minister of Sutton for the time being, for ever, for the preaching of a sermon on the 12th of August in every year; — £5 to be distributed that day at church amongst the poor; — £1 to the clerk of the said parish on that day; — £4 to be divided between the churchwardens on that day, on condition of their attending to the monument and family vault of the Gibsons, and seeing that it is kept in repair by the governors and guardians of Christ's Hospital. 1823. Mrs. Bentley, two sums of £50 each, producing £4 6s. 2d. annually, towards the support of the parish schools. 1829. Mrs. Lucy Manners, the annual interest of £700 3 per cent. Consols, to be applied towards the education of the children of the poor, at the discretion of the rector. the Duke of Marlborough, for which he was indicted, fined 100 marcs, sentenced to stand twice in the pUlory, and find sureties for his good behaviour for 12 months. The pillory was remitted, but not till he had been taken to a pubhc house at Charing Cross and seen it prepared for him." — Manning, from Lysons's " Environs," vol. i. pp. 495, 496. THE HUNDRED OF TANDRIDGE. PAEISHES IN THB FIRST DIVISION, VIZ. :— BLETCHINGLEY.— CEOWHUEST.— GODSTONE.— HOENE.— LIMPSFIELD.— LINGFIELD, OXTED.— TANDEIDGE. IN THB SECOND DIVISION :— CATEEHAM.— CHELSHAM.— FAELEY.— TATSFIELD.— TITSEY.— WAELINGHAM.— WOLDINGHAM. rjlANDBIDGE hundred derives its appellation from a small village of the same name, which in ancient times must have been a place of more importance than at present, otherwise it could not have obtained • such distinction as to give name to the district. In the Doomsday Book both the manor and the hundred are called Tenrige. Salmon states that "the Sheriff's Tourn for this hundred was held at TTndersnow, where three ways meet, between Godstone and Oxted, at the south-eastern angle of Eooks'-nest Bark, and is now called by old people Shreeves Turn."* The hundred of Tandridge, Avhich forms the south-eastern angle of the county, is bounded by the hundred of Wallington on the north, by Kent on the east, by Sussex on the south, and by the hundreds of Eeigate and Wotton on the west. BLETCHINGLEY. The small town of Bletchingley, anciently Blechyngelegh, formerly a borough, lies near the central range of chalk hills, in a parish of the same name. This parish contains, according to the latest survey, 5,605 acres of land. The present parish of Horne anciently formed a part of Bletchingley, but it was constituted a distinct parish in the reign of Queen Anne. Bletchingley is bounded on the north by Caterham and Chaldon, on the east by Godstone, on the south by Burstow and Horne, and on the west by Nutfield and Merstham. The soil is calcareous in the higher part of the parish, but in the lower portion it consists of clay. Limestone is dug here of various qualities, some being adapted for building, and some being burnt into lime. * See Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 289. BLETCHINGLEY. 3*5 At the time of the Doomsday survey there were two manors here, thus described in the record among the lands of Eichard de Tonbridge : — " In Tandridge Hundred, Eichard holds Civentone, which Alnod held of King Edward. It was then assessed at 20 hides : now at 6 hides. There are 12 carucates of arable land. Two carucates and a half are in the demesne ; and twenty-three villains, and one bordar, with 9 carucates. There are nine bondmen ; and one mill, at 32d. The wood yields fifty swine for pannage ; and twelve swine for herbage ; and there are 1 6 acres of meadow. Of these hides, Eoger holds half a hide ; and has there, in demesne, 1 carucate, with five bordars. In Southwark are three houses {haga?) at 15d. ; and in London, two mansions {masurce) at lOd. In the time of King Edward the manor was valued at £11 ; afterwards at £6 ; and now at £10. " Eichard himself holds Blachingelie. ^Elfech, and Alwin and Elnoth held it of King Edward, when it was assessed at 10 hides : now at 3 hides. The arable land amounts to 16 carucates. The three manors are now united in one. Three carucates are in the demesne ; and twenty villains, and four bordars, with 9 carucates. There are seven bondmen ; and 14 acres of meadow. The wood yields forty swine for pannage ; and eighteen swine for herbage. In London and Southwark are seven mansions, at 5s. 4d. Of these 10 hides, Odin holds 2 and a half, Lemei 2 hides, and Beter 1 and a half. There is 1 carucate in demesne ; and three villains, and two bordars, with 1 carucate ; and 3 acres of meadow. The whole manor, in the time of King Edward, was valued at £13 ; and afterwards at £8 : now that which Eichard holds is valued at £12 ; and the land held by his men at 73s. 4d." Civentone, apparently the principal manor in the reign of William I., has long since become a mere appendage to the manor of Bletchingley. Little or no traces of it now remain, but its name is preserved in a brewery called Chivington, in the eastern part of the parish. The reversion of this estate was sold by auction, in 1803, to William Kenrick, Esq. The Bev. Jarvis Kenrick, of Chilham, in Kent, held it in 1809 ; and the Misses Kenrick, of Bendell House, are the present owners. The Manor oe Bletchingley. — This manor, twenty miles and a half in circuit, with many other estates formerly held by Eichard de Tonbridge, descended to the Clares, Earls of Gloucester, and after the death of Earl Gilbert in 1313, as he left no issue, the family inheritance was divided among his three sisters.* Margaret de Clare, the youngest of * " 25 Edward I., 1297, on an Inquisition taken at Bletchingly 3 July, it was found that John le Venur died seised of a tenement held of the heirs of GUbert de Clare, sometime Earl of Gloucester, rendering yearly a bearded arrow, value one half-penny for aU services. It is described as a capital messuage, value ls. ; 48 acres of arable land at 4d. an acre, 3z 6 HISTORY OF SURREY. these ladies (married first to Biers Gaveston, the favourite of Edward II., and afterwards to Hugh de Audeley), obtained this manor as part of her share of the property, and her only daughter by her second husband transferred the Bletchingley estate by marriage to the family of Stafford. Humphrey, Earl of Stafford, who came into the possession of this manorial estate in 1422, and was created Duke of Buckingham in 23 Henry YL, lost his life in the service of that prince, at the battle of Northampton, in 1460. Bletchingley, with various other estates, descended to Edward Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, executed in 1521 for treason; and though the Act of attainder subsequently passed was partly set aside by another Act for the restoration in blood of his son and heir, Henry, Lord Stafford, yet that nobleman did not recover the lands and honours of his ancestors. Sir Nicholas Carew, of Beddington, had a grant of the manor of Bletchingley in 14 Henry VIII., but it reverted to the Crown on his execution and attainder in 1539. The King, in 1541, settled on his late wife, Anne of Cleves, for her life, if she continued to reside in England, the manor of Bletchingley, with its appurtenances, &c, of the clear value of £42 15s. 2d. a year. Sir Thomas CaAvarden, Master of the Bevels at court, obtained a grant in reversion of this estate, on which he dwelt, being bailiff and collector of the rents, and keeper of the parks here.* The ex-queen died in 1557, Avhen Sir Thomas came into full possession of the fee-simple of the estate, which he held until his death in 1559. His Avidow Elizabeth, who had a life interest in it, dying in 1560, William Cawarden, Esq., nephew and heir of Sir Thomas, had livery of the manorial estate. Shortly after he procured a license to alienate the manor and its appurtenances to William, Lord Howard of Effingham, Avho died seized of it in 1574. His son and successor, Charles, afterwards Earl of Nottingham (celebrated for his naval triumph over the Spanish Armada), who died in 1624, some years previously gave the Bletchingley estate to his son William, Lord Howard, on whose death without male issue, in 1617, it came into possession of his daughter Elizabeth, on whom he had settled it. Her uncle Charles, second Earl of Nottingham, instituted lawsuits in order to recover the property, but he was unsuccessful. 16s. ; \\ acres of meadow at 12d., ls. 6d. ; rents of assize, £1 3s. 4Jd. And that John was his son and heir, of the age of 23. ' ° " 17 Edward II., 1324, this John died; Ms estate being described as a messuage in Blechingly, value per annum 2s. 92 acres of arable land, at 8d. per acre. 26 acres of wood, the value of the underwood and pasture, 6s. 6d. I acre and 3 roods of meadow, value 21d. Rents of assize, 21s. 6d._Sum £2 14s. 9d. Held of Margaret, sister and coheir of Gilbert, late Earl of Gloucester, as of the Honour of Clare, which Honour was then in the King's hands by reason of the forfeiture ot Hugh de Audeley, who had married the said Margaret, by the service of one barbed arrow, or one half-penny per annum, and suit of court to Blechingly. William was his son and heir, aged 16.-Of this estate we know no more."- il-™G AND Bkat, Surrey, vol. ii. p. 306 : from the Escheats, 35 Edw. I. n. 3, and 17 Edw. II. n. 58, Rot Pip During his residence here Sir Thomas Cawarden is said to have entertained Henry VIII. and his queen, Anne Boleyn; but there .a little foundation for such report, as Cawarden did not occupy this estate until some years after the yueen s decapitation. J BLETCHINGLEY. 327 The heiress of Lord Howard married John Mordaunt, Earl of Beterborough, and having survived her husband, she settled this estate, in 1649, on her son Henry, second Earl of Beterborough, by whom it was vested in trustees for sale, under the sanction of an Act of Barliament passed in 1677. It was purchased by Sir Eobert Clayton, Knt., an alderman of London (an eminent scrivener and conveyancer), and John Morris, Esq., his partner. The former, deeply implicated in the patriotic opposition made against the misgovernment of Charles II., is said to have been preserved from the fate Avhich befell several of his associates through the influence of Judge Jeffreys, who, in the early part of his profes sional career, owed to Sir Eobert his promotion to the office of Becorder of London. Other estates were purchased jointly by the same parties, and on a division being made, Bletchingley, with other lands in Surrey, was allotted to Sir Eobert. William Clayton, nephew of the alderman, to whom he bequeathed his possessions, was created a baronet in 1732. His grandson, Sir Eobert Clayton, in 1788 sold the reversion of the manor and borough of Bletchingley to his maternal relative, John Kenrick, Esq., who, on the death of the vendor in 1799, came into possession of the property. Mr. Kenrick died the same year, having given it by will to his brother, the Bev. Matthew Kenrick, LL.D., then rector of the parish, and, on his decease in 1803, it passed in the same manner to another brother, the EeAr. Jarvis Kenrick, rector of the parish thirty-five years, and who died in 1838. In 1816, hoAvever, the manor, with the borough, &c, was sold to Matthew Eussell, Esq., of Bortland Blace, London, and in 1835, after the decease of that gentleman, the manor, quit-rents, &c, Avith great part of the town, were sold to John Berkins, Esq., for £540, a trivial sum when compared with its value before the Beform Act of 1832. The manor is now held by Sir George MacLeay, of Bendell Court. The ancient manor-house, which stood in or near what is called Brewer Street, was pulled down by the Earl of Beterborough, mentioned above. The porter's lodge was long since converted into a farmhouse. The Manoe oe Gaeston, in Bletchingley. — This manor, which belonged to the priory of Tandridge, was given by Henry VIII., with other conventual estates, to John Bede, in exchange for the manor of Oatlands.* It came into the possession of Bartholomew Bede, who in 1573 sold it to Henry Hayward, or Haward; and it descended to Sir William Haward, by whom it was sold to John Burrough, Esq., in 1681. After other transfers it was purchased by Sir Joseph Jekyll, who married a sister of the celebrated Lord. Somers. He died without issue in 1738, having bequeathed to his lady the interest of £20,000 stock for her life, and the reversion of the principal * See account of Oatlands, vol. U. p. 129. 32g HISTORY OF SURREY. to Government, towards the payment of the national debt. His real estate, after the deduction of several legacies and annuities, he devised to twelve relations. This will became the subject of proceedings in the Court of Chancery, in consequence of which its validity was established in 1740 ; but a decree for the sale of the estates was not obtained until 1749. The Garston estate* was purchased by the lady of Sir Kenrick Clayton, father of Sir Eobert, to whom she gave it by will, and in failure of his issue, then in fee to her daughter, Martha Clayton, who, dying unmarried in 1802, devised it to her cousin, Sir William Clayton, Bart. Garston House is noAV the residence of Edward Ellis, Esq. There is a vague tradition that Bletchingley once possessed seven churches, but there is nothing in the appearance or in the history of the place to justify such a belief, y Here was formerly a castle, which stood at the west end of the town, on the brow of a hill, commanding an extensive prospect over Holmsdale. Aubrey says that in 1673 the remains were visible, and he adds, "This Castle (with great Graffs) is in a Coppice, and was heretofore a stately Eabrick, and pleasantly situated, but sheAVS only now one piece of wall of five foot thick." % When Mr. Bray wrote the founda tions only remained, which being then traced, a slight plan was made, and published in the "History of Surrey." The date of its erection and the name of its founder are alike unknown. At the time of .the Doomsday survey it belonged to Eichard de Tonbridge, Earl of Clare, in whose family it continued to the ninth generation. In 1263, whilst it was the property of Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester, it was demolished by the King's forces, commanded by Brince Edward (afterwards Edward I. ), when he had routed the Londoners at Lewes, in Sussex. It is understood to have been afterwards restored, and was conveyed by marriage to the Staffords, Dukes of Buckingham. Subsequently it formed part of the settlement made by Henry VIII. on his divorced queen, Anne of Cleves. The Howards, Earls of Nottingham, § and * Aubrey mentions this manor (which he calls Gasson) as being the place " where the Spring of the River Medway rises, which, by so small a force as a Man's Hand, may be turn'd either into Medway in Kent, or the Thames ; and haU a mile from the west side of Godstone, drives a Mill." — Surrey, vol. iii. p. 87. t The behef that this demesne was the retreat of Earl Godwin, after his lands in Kent had been swallowed by the sea, in the eleventh century, appears to rest upon no sohd foundation. X " Surrey,'' vol. ih. p. 73. § In periods when it was customary for provisions and other articles to be taken for the King's house by purveyors, Bletchingley and Horne, being on the borders of the woody country below, were bound to furnish wood and coal [char coal 1] ; but through the interest of the second Earl of Nottingham, lord of the manor, they had been for many years excused from the contribution ; so long, indeed, that when called upon, in the reign of James I., they were unwilling to execute the service. In consequence of their refusal, the parishioners were summoned to appear before the Board of Green Cloth. However, in 1616 the Lord Steward and officers of the Board gave up the arrears, amounting to one hundred loads of wood and thirty loads of coal, on the undertaking of the parishioners to perform the required service in future. BLETCHINGLEY. 3^9 the Mordaunts, Earls of Beterborough, were successively owners of the estate. At what period it was separated from the manor is uncertain, but it was at one time the property of a family named Cholmeley, and afterwards of the Gaynsfords of Crowhurst. It was next held by the family of Drake, of whom the Bev. Balph Drake took the name of Brockman; and his son, James Drake-Brockman, sold the castle, or its site rather, in 1793, to John Kenrick, Esq., after which it belonged in succession to his brothers, the Bev. Dr. Matthew Kenrick and the Eev. Jarvis Kenrick. The estate, now known as Castle Hill and South Bark, at present belongs to James Norris, Esq. During some excavations made by that gentleman portions of the wall and foundations of one of the towers have been revealed.* Bendell. — Bendell (or more properly Ben-dalel Court, taking its name from pen, a head, and dell, a dale, is a spacious old mansion, tne property and residence of Sir George MacLeay, above mentioned. In the seventeenth century the Bendell estate belonged to the family of Holman. The mansion, which is kept in an excellent state of preser vation, was built by George Holman, Esq., of Godstone, about 1624. His son, Eichard Holman, of Bendell, died in 1664, leaving two sons, who having died without issue, the estate devolved on Thomas Seyliard, of Benshurst in Kent, who had married their sister, Mary Holman. His great-grand-daughter and heiress, Ann Seyliard, having died at an early age in 1760, this estate passed to her cousin, Hester Wade Seyliard, who became the wife of George Scullard, Esq., whom she survived: having no issue, she gave the property to John Berkins, Esq., from whose family it passed a few years ago to the present owner.f Another mansion here was erected by Eichard Glyd, Esq., in 1636 (according to tradition), from a design of Inigo Jones.J His son and heir, John Glyd, dying unmarried, this house, with 41 acres of land, was afterwards sold to Andrew Jelfe, a mason and architect, of whose family it was purchased in 1803 by Joseph Seymour Biscoe, Esq., with whom it remained for some years. It is now the residence of the Misses Kenrick. * Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 303. t There is a view of the mansion at Pendell in Manning and Bray's " Surrey,'' vol. ii. p. 306 ; and in vol. iii. plate xxvi. is a ground-plan of a Roman hypocaust discovered in a field at a httle distance north-east of the house, in the summer of 1813, by some of Mr. Perkins's workmen, in grubbing up a bank. " The field," says Mr. Bray, " is not far from the foot of the Chalk hill, caUed White hUl, up which, and over Bansted Heath, the Roman road out of Sussex, by Godstone, passes in its way to Woodcote ; and the fortified ground caUed the " Cardinal's Cap," on the point of the hill in Caterham, overlooks this field." — Surrey, vol. iii. ; Additions, p. cxxi. X " In the Phcenix Britanmeus is a copy of verses written by (as he is caUed) the ingenious Mr. Richard Glyd, of New CoUege, Oxford, on ' The Narrative of the Miraculous Deliverance of Anne Greene; who being executed at Oxford, Dec. 14, 1650, was afterwards revived by Care of the Physicians.' Erom the date of the building the house, the gentle man here mentioned must have been the son of the buUder." -Manning, Surrey, vol. ii. p. 308. VOL. III. U V 330 HISTORi' OF SURREY. North Bark some distance from the town towards Godstone, formerly belonged to Sir William Clayton. It is now a farm. The old mansion of Kentwaynes, or Kentwin's— sometimes called the Tan House— was formerly a residence of the Cholmeleys, from >vhom it passed to the Gaynsfords, and from them to the Drakes, whose descendant, Mr. James Drake-Brockman, sold it to the Kenricks. The house (now a farmhouse), with part of the land, is in the parish of Nutfield, though generally represented as in Bletchingley. Ham is described by Manning as a large old house, with about 600 acres of land, at the south-west end of the parish, encompassed by lands belonging to other parishes. It appears to have been the residence of the Turner family as early as the reign of Eichard II., when Eichard Turneur was representative of the borough of Bletchingley. John Turner, the last heir male, died in 1713 ; but the farm of Ham had been previously sold to Thomas Budgen, Esq., M.B. for Surrey in 1751 and 1754 ; and it was the property of his grandson in 1808. It was afterward purchased of the Budgen family by Mr. King, a cousin of Mr. King, formerly of Bletchingley House. Over the entrance gateway of the mansion was the following inscription :— " 1611. Non Domo Dominus, sed Domino Domus honestanda est. I. E. T." In the upper part of the gateway was a room once used as a chapel. The ceiling was coved, and painted with stars. It was pulled down by the proprietor in 1843. Stangrave. — On the road from Bletchingley to Godstone, near Godstone, Green, was a considerable mansion thus designated. In 1326 Sir Eobert de Stangrave had license for an oratory in his manor of Stangrave, in Bletchingley, and five years subsequently he had a renewal of the license for two years.* In 1322 Eobert le. BotiUer, son of Peter le Botiller, of Bletchingley, demised to Eobert de Stangrave, Knt., and Joan hiswife^his right in lands in Bletchingley : y Sir Eobert de Stangrave died in 1361, leaving Sir John Breton his cousin and heir. The family of Beecher held Stangrave from 1580 to 1676, when it came into the possession of Thomas Northey, citizen, of London. The old dwelling was taken doAvn about 1740, and the existing edifice, now known by the name of Ivy House, was erected by one of the Northeys, a descendant of whom, Milicent, the wife of the Eev. John Barkhurst (of Epsom), together with her sisters, sold the estate in 1759 to the Claytons. In 1348-9 there was another mansion in this parish called Daeerons, or Saeerons, then belonging to Wilham de Tudenham, who had a license for his chapel therein : his license was renewed in 1354. Bletchingley was formerly both a market and a borough town, but the market has long * Register, Stratford, Winchester, 16 a, 64 a. t Rot. Claus. 5' Edw. III. p. 2, m. 45, BLETCHINGLEY. 3 3 ' been discontinued. Here are two annual fairs : one is held on the 10th of May; the other, granted by Edward I. in 1283, is held on the 2nd of November, and is for cattle. The first return of members from this borough to Barliament was made in 23 Edward I., 1294-5, but it lost the privilege in 1832 under the first Beform Act. The nominal right of election was vested in the burgage-holders resident within the borough. In '21 James I. an attempt was made by Dr. Harris, rector of the parish, and others to extend the elective franchise to all the inhabitants, but their endeavours proved unsuccess ful. In 1623, observes Oldfield, "it was resolved by the House [of Commons] that the bailiff, appointed by the proprietor of the borough, has nothing to do with the election ; it therefore follows [but the inference is a non sequitur], that any other person may exercise the duties of that office." * Breviously to 1733 the elections took place in a large house called the Hall, and after that date at the White Hart Inn, purchased by Sir William Clayton, then lord of the manor. Sir Eobert Clayton, his successor, sold the reversion of the borough in his lifetime to the Eev. Dr. Kenrick, from whom it was inherited by William Kenrick, Esq., who sold it in 1816 to Matthew Eussell, Esq., for the sum, as recorded by Oldfield, of £60,000. j In ancient times the number of voters was reckoned at about one hundred and thirty ; more recently the nominal right of election was in the holders of about ninety burgage tenures ; latterly, however, the number of voters who actually attended the elections seldom amounted to more than eight or ten. In fact, it was one of the most scandalous of all the boroughs upon record, and could scarcely be paralleled except by Gatton, also in this county, and Old Sarum. Members of Parliament for Bletchingley in and since 1800 : — 1796'. Sir .Lionel Copley, Bart.': vacated, and in February, 1797, Benjamn Hobhouse, Esq., was elected. John Stein, Esq., of Carron MUls. 1802. James Milnbs, Esq.; on whose decease in April, 1805, Nicholas Wm. Ridley Colborne, Esq., was elected. John Benn Walsh, Esq., created a Baronet June 14th, 1804. * See Oldfield's " Representative History of Great Britain and Ireland," vol. iv. p. 608, 2nd edit. 1816. In that work (and also in Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 295) will be found some curious particulars relating to the election above noticed. Dr. Harris, the then Rector of Bletchingley, was censured in the Report of the Committee of the House of Commons : — " On which Report,. being called to answer to the House, and giving no satisfaction, it was resolved that he had committed several offences against their privileges, in attempting to hinder a due election, and to alter the ancient course of elections in the borough, and in scandalizing the proceedings and justice of the Committee ; and he deserved the more punishment for having abused the pulpit to his.private malicious ends ; and that he should be brought to the bar, be sharply admonished, confess his fault on his knees, and ask pardon of the House, and on the Sunday sen'night following, in the pulpit of his parish church, in the entrance of Ms sermon, again witness his fault, desiring the love of his neighbours, and promising reformation." " Which judgment," the Report adds, " was executed accordingly in aU points." t See Oldfield's " History," &c, as above. U V 2 332 HISTORY OF SURREY. 1806. Josias Dupre Porcher, Esq., who accepted the Chiltern Hundreds, and in January, 1807, John Alexander Bannerman, Esq., was elected. William Kenrick, Esq. 1807. William Kenrick, Esq. Thomas Heathcote, Esq., who accepted the Chiltern Hundreds, and in January, 1809, Charles Cockerell, Esq., was elected. 1812. William Kenrick, Esq., who accepted the Chiltern Hundreds, and in November, 1814, John Bolland, merchant, was elected. Sir Charles Talbot, Bart., of Chart Park ; on whose decease before he had taken his seat, in Dec, 1812, Robert William Newman, Esq., was elected. 1819. Matthew Russell, Esq., of Brancepeth Castle ; vacated for Saltash, in Cornwall, and in February, 1819, Sir William Curtis, Bart., was elected. George Tennyson, Esq., who accepted the Chiltern Hundreds, and in March, 1819, The Marquis of Tichfield was elected. 1820. The Marquis op Ticheield, who accepted the Chiltern Hundreds in 1822, when The Right Hon. Francis Leveson-Gower, commonly called Lord F. L. Gower, was elected. Hon. Edw. Henry Edwardes. 1826. AVilliam Russell, Esq., who accepted the Chiltern Hundreds, and in May, 1827, The Right Hon. William Lamb (afterwards Lord Melbourne) was elected : he accepted the Chiltern Hundreds, and in July, 1828, William Ewart, Esq., of the Middle Temple, was elected. 1830. Charles Tennyson, Esq. Robert William Mills, Esq., who accepted the Chiltern Hundreds, and in February, 1831, Sir William Horne, Knt., Sohcitor General, was elected. 1831. Hon. John George Brabazon Ponsonby, who accepted the Chiltern Hundreds, and in July, 1831, Thomas Hyde Villiers, Esq., was elected. Charles Tennyson, Esq., vacated for Stamford, in Lincolnshire, when The Right Hon. Henry John Viscount Palmerston was elected. Disfranchised by the Reform Act in 1832. We learn from Howes's Chronicle (London, 1611) that in 1551 the shock of an earth quake was felt at Bletchingley ; also at Godstone, Titsey, Merstham, Eeigate, Croydon, and other places in this county. The advowson of Bletchingley anciently belonged to the Clares, Earls of Gloucester, and it appears to have been generally held by the lords of the manor until Sir Eobert Clayton sold it to Eichard Troward, Esq. Subsequently it became the property of Charles, eleventh Duke of Norfolk, after whose decease in 1815 it was purchased by — Warde, Esq. The presentation now rests with Emmanuel College, Cambridge. This rectory, in the deanery of Godstone and diocese of Eochester, was valued in the Taxation of Bope Nicholas at 36 marks, and in the King's books at £19 19s. 4£d. The Eegisters, of which there were seven in number prior to the Act passed in 1813 (52 Geo. III. cap. 146), commence in 1538, and have few irregularities. Amongst the incumbents were Thomas Herring, D.D.,* afterwards Archbishop of * Thomas Herring, son of the Rev. John Herring, Rector of Walsoken, Norfolk, was born in 1693. He studied at Jesus College, and at Corpus Christi CoUege, Cambridge. Dr. Fleetwood, Bishop of Ely, made him his domestic chaplain, and presented him to the livings of Rettenden in Essex, and Barley in Hertfordshire. On Ms presentation to the hving of BletcMngley in 1731, he vacated that of Barley, and in 1732 was instaUed Dean of Rochester. He was preferred to BLETCHINGLEY. 333 Canterbury, instituted in 1731, and his successor, John Thomas, D.D., who became Bishop of Eochester, instituted in January, 1737-8.* Rectors of Bletchingley in and since 1800 : — 1. — Matthew Kenrick, LL.D. Instituted in 1775. 2. — Jarvis Kenrick. Instituted in 1803. 3. — Wetenhall Sneyd. Instituted in 1839. 4. — Charles Fox Chawner, M.A. Instituted in 1841. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a large edifice. It has a low and massive embattled tower, containing a peal of eight bells. Formerly the tower was surmounted by a lofty spire, supposed to have contained two hundred loads of oak timber covered with shingles. This was destroyed by lightning in 1606 : the bells, then only five in number, were melted. The church consists of nave, with aisles, and a double chancel, that on the south side being commonly called the Clayton Chapel. The nave is divided from the chancel by a pointed arch, and from the south aisle by clustered pillars supporting four pointed arches. The chancels are separated by two similar arches. To the north of the chancels is a vestry. The font, a large and ancient octagonal stone basin, has two quatrefoils deeply cut in each face ; it is supported by an octagonal column, each face of which presents a deeply sunk pointed arch. In the nave, near the entrance into Ham Chapel, are the remains of a piscina. Nearly opposite, in the south wall, is a small oaken door bearing the date of 1641, and forming the entrance to a turreted building on the outside, within which is a circular staircase leading to the low leads of the church. In the south window, near the monument of Sir Eobert Clayton, are the armorial bearings of that gentleman and of his lady in painted glass. On the north side of this chancel is an old mural tablet of black marble to the memory of Nathanael Harris, rector from 1609 to 1625. Between the two chancels is an altar tomb of freestone for Sir Thomas Cawarden, over the bishopric of Bangor in 1737, and removed to the archbishopric of York in 1743 : there he expended a considerable sum in repairing and beautifying the episcopal palace. During the rebellion of 1745 he took an active part in the associations formed at York to resist the Pretender, and he addressed the Duke of Cumberland on Ms return from the victory of Culloden. In 1747 he was translated to Canterbury. He laid out much money in repairing Croydon Palace, which he made his constant summer residence. He printed seven single sermons. To the rebuUding Benet CoUege, of which he had been elected a feUow, he bequeathed £1,000. He died in 1767, and was buried in Croydon Church. * Dr. Thomas was instaUed Dean of Westminster in 1768, on the resignation of Dr. Zachariah Pearce, who wished also to resign the bishopric of Rochester. This not being permitted, Dr. Thomas had to wait for the latter preferment untU the decease of Dr. Pearce, which occurred in 1774. HISTORY OF SURREY. 334 which was formerly a stone canopy. At the west end are the Cawarden arms, viz. a bow between two pheons, argent, and the grapples used in boarding ; on each side are two large roses in separate panels deeply cut; and at the base of the arch over the tomb is an angel holding an escutcheon, on which a chevron appears. The south chancel is wholly occupied by a most elaborate and costly monument, erected by the first Sir Eobert Clayton, both for his own commemoration and that of his lady. Whole-length figures of Sir Eobert and his lady, in white marble, stand on the project ing base of the monument. Sir Eobert is in his robes as Lord Mayor of London, with the ensigns of his office. Under his figure are the words, " Non vultus instantis tyranni : " under his lady's, " Quando ullam invenient parem ? " Between these statues is a curtain of white marble thus inscribed : — Here rests what was mortal of Sir Robert Clayton, Knt., in the year mdclxxx Lord .Mayor, and at Ms death Alderman and Father of the City of London, and near xxx years was one of its Representatives in Parha ment. By the justest methods and sMU in business he acquired an ample fortune, wMch he applied to the noblest purposes, and more than once ventured it aU for Ms country. He fixed the seat of Ms famUy at Marden, where he hath left a remarkable instance of the pohteness of Ms genius ; and how far Nature may be improved by Art. His relations, his friends, the Hospital of St. Thomas in Southwark (of which he was President), CMist-Church Hospital, and the Workhouse in London, were large sharers of his bounty. He hved in the Communion of the Church of England, and in the most perfect charity with all good men, however divided amongst themselves in opinions. The wehare of his country was the only aim of his pubhc actions ; and in all the various efforts that were made in Ms time for preserving its Constitution he bore a great share, and acted therein with a constancy of mind wMch no prospect of danger could ever shake. It is but just [that] the memory of so good and so great a man should be transmitted to .after-ages, since, in aU the private .and public transactions of his hfe he has left so bright a pattern to imitate, but hardly to be outdone. He was born at Bulwick in Northamptonshire the xxixth day of September, anno Dom. mdcxxix, and died at Marden the xvi day of July, mdccvii. — Guhelmus Clayton Nepos et Haeres D.D. On the floor, near the entrance to the chancel, is a slab with the following inscription : — In the vault beneath are interred the remains of John Thomas, LL.D., Bishop of Rochester, Dean of Westminster, Dean of the most hon118 Order of the Bath. He departed tMs life August 22d, 1793, aged 82 years. Amongst several mural monuments in what is called the north transept, or Ham Chapel, is one, on the east side, of an emblematic character, executed by J. Bacon, jun., to the memory of Sir William Bensley, Bart., an officer in the royal navy, and after wards a director of the East India Company. He died 17th December, 1809, aged 73. He married 12th June, 1798, Mary, sister of Joseph Seymour Biscoe, Esq., of tMs parish, and daughter of Vincent John Biscoe, Esq., by Lady Mary Seymour, only daughter of Edward, 8th Duke of Somerset. On the floor in this chapel are inlaid brasses in memory of " Thomas Warde and Jone his wife, the which Thomas decessyd an0 dom' mv°xlj, o' who's soules J'hu have marcy. Amen." The former is represented in a long gown, and his wife in the dress of the CROWHURST. 335 time : above are two groups of six boys and six girls in each. There are also tablets to the memory of the Kenricks and Northeys, of this parish. This church was restored in 1856—72, at a cost of £2,200. Notwithstanding the wealth and great extent of property in Bletchingley parish, the benefactions to the poor have been only of slight amount :— 1633. Wilham Evans, by will, £100, with which lands called Norrys were purchased, the produce of which was " to set poor people to work." [These lands now let for £10 14s. per annum.] 1641. Henry Smith, by deed of settlement, a bullock, annually on St. Thomas's day, to be distributed amongst such poor persons as do not receive constant parochial rehef. 1699. The Rev. Dr. Hampton, by will, an annuity of £1 6s. 8d., charged on Barr Fields, for firing for the poor people in the almshouses. In 1640 John Evans, gent., of London, founded a Free School for twenty poor boys of this borough, under the direction of eleven governors. He endowed the school with lands, to the extent of about 32 acres, in the adjoining parish of Nutfield, then let at the rent of £20 per annum. Mr. Bostock, of Tandridge, gave a house and garden for the master, which Mr. Serjeant Fuller, his son-in-law, endeavoured to recover, but did not succeed. By the statutes, the master, if a clergyman, is prohibited from preaching in any other church than Bletchingley. Ten Almshouses were built, chiefly by the parish, in 1668, to which Dr. Charles Hampton, appointed rector in 1677, added another; and by his will, as stated in the list of benefactions above, he left £1 6s. 8d. a year, to be distributed in fagots amongst the inmates. Four Almshouses for widows have also been erected by the late Miss C. M. Berkins. At a short distance from the church is a Union (Godstone) Workhouse for the poor of fourteen parishes in this county, viz. : — Bletchingley,. Caterham^ Chelsham, Crowhurst, Farley, Godstone, Horne, Limpsfield, Oxted, Tandridge, Tatsfield, Titsey, Warlingham, and Woldingham., The Union-house, built upon the Clerk's Field, is, in its construction and regulations, in accordance with the directions of the Boor Law Commissioners. In 1853 new Board Schools were built here, at a cost of £600. CROWHURST. This parish lies entirely in the deep clay, adjoining to Godstone, Tandridge, and Oxted on the north, to Limpsfield on the east, to Lingfield on the south, and to Bletchingley on the west. The South Eastern Eailway runs for some distance on its northern edge ; but the nearest stations are those of Godstone on the east, and Edenbridge, in Kent. The Godstone station is, however, more than two miles from the town of that name. 336 HISTORY OF SURREY. This parish, as its name indicates, was in former times extensively wooded. The number of acres estimated and tithable is 2,081, much of which is poor, but on some of the land good wheat is produced. Here are several substantial farmhouses, including Crowhurst Blace, formerly the seat of the Gaynsfords ; a house near the church, once the residence of the Angell family ;* Chellows, in the occupation of Mr. Thomas Bitkin; and the Moat House, belonging to Mr. Henry Kelsey. In former times it was customary to appoint a constable for Crowhurst at the "Sheriff's Tourn." No notice of Crowhurst is to be found in the Doomsday Book, the land in this parish having probably belonged to the extensive manors of Oxted, Tandridge, or Limpsfield, at the time of the Norman survey. In the early part of the fourteenth century Crowhurst formed a distinct manor, in the tenure of Eobert de Stangrave, who held an estate called Stangrave, in the parish of Bletchingley ; and in 31 Edward I. he obtained a grant of free- warren for his lands there, and at this place. In 1338 Eobert de Stangrave (probably the son of the preceding) levied a fine, and granted the manor of Crowhurst, with the rents and services of all the tenants, &c, to John Gaynsford, and Margery his wife.f In 20 Edward III. John de Horne granted to Gaynsford the rents and services of John At Grove, seized of a manor in the parish called At Grove, which in the reign of Henry YL, after having passed through several hands, was conveyed to John Gaynsford, a descendant from John above mentioned. The manors of Crowhurst and At Grove then became united, or rather, the latter was absorbed by the former.^ John Gaynsford, son ofthe purchaser of At Grove, died in 1450, and was interred at Crowhurst. His son and heir, Sir John Gaynsford, Knt., M.B. for this county in 1467, and Sheriff four years later, married six wives, by whom he had twenty children. Thomas, his eldest son, had a son named John, and a daughter Anne, as appears from an inquisition taken in 1554, in which it is stated that John Gaynsford the son was an idiot, whose sister was his heir. She, however, inherited a part only of the family estates, for the manor of Crowhurst came into the possession of Erasmus Gaynsford, the eldest son of Sir John by his sixth wife. Mr. Manning says, " There must have been a settlement * Aubrey relates an idle and confused story of a spring, said to arise a little below the house ofthe AngeUs here, in a pave of yew-trees witMn the manor of Warlingham, « on the approach of some remarkable alteration in Church or State, - and which, after running an inexplicable course, disappears, and rises again at Croydon. The simple fact appears to be that m wet seasons a bourn rises in Birch Wood, in Marden Park, on the north side of the chalk hills, and runs into the valley wMch extends to Croydon. t "19 Edward III. 1346, the King assigned John de Gaynsford and John de Hardresham to enquire whether any treasure had been found at Crowhurst by John Rugges, of what value, and in whose possession. Orig. Exch. Rot. 18."- Manning, Surrey, vol. ih. p. 800. n \ " T^iman°r 0f At Grove » now unknown, unless it is found in a farm called Blackgrove, wMch was sold with Crowhurst Place to the Trustees of the Duchess of Marlborough.»-MANNiNG, Surrey, vol. ii. p. 363. CROWHURST. 337 of this estate, with limitation to the heirs male, as we do not find that Anne Gaynsford or her children ever possessed it." From this Erasmus Gaynsford, Crowhurst descended to his grandson of the same name, who died in 1672, having some years previously settled this and most of his estates on his only surviving son John, on his marriage with Anne Gape. The issue of this union was one daughter, Elizabeth ; and John Gaynsford, having taken a second wife, had by her two sons and a daughter, Mirabella. The sons died childless, when a legal contest took place between the two daughters, ultimately decided in favour of Elizabeth, the offspring of the first wife, who had married Henry Christmas. The only son of Henry and Elizabeth having died without issue, his sister, Mary Christmas, obtained possession of this estate. In 1720 she entered into an agreement to sell the manor of Crowhurst to Edward Gibbon, Esq., a South Sea director; but before the conveyance was completed the financial speculations in which he was concerned failed, and Mr. Gibbon's estates, with those of other directors, were vested in trustees for the benefit of their creditors. However, Mary Christmas (then married to Thomas Bates), having made her claim, the purchase money was paid in 1722, and this manor was conveyed to Sir John Eyles and others, trustees (under an Act of Barliament) of the estates of the directors, who in 1724 sold it to the Duchess of Marlborough, and she settled it as a part of the endowment of the house for the widows of officers in the army which she had erected at St. Albans.* The Manor of Newlands. — Of the manor, or reputed manor, of Newlands, said to lie in Crowhurst, Tandridge, Lingfield, &c, little appears to be known. In 1316, Eoger, son of Gilbert de Bugge, of Crowhurst, granted a messuage and certain lands in that parish to John de Neuman de la Sele, and Beatrix his wife, for their lives, the reversion to Eichard de Bympe, and Margaret his wife. This grant was confirmed by John, the son of Eoger. In 1332 John de Neuman granted to John Gaynsford all his lands, rents, &c, in Crow hurst, Walkensted, and Lingfield ; and in the next year John, son of Eoger de Eugge, granted to John Gaynsford, and Margaret his wife, the reversion thereof. In 1337 there was a further confirmation by Simon, another son of Eoger. These notices are supposed to refer to the manor of Newlands. In the time of Henry VI. that manor appears to have been in possession of William de Newdigate, who left it to Letice, his wife (afterwards the wife of George Danyell, of Bickmansworth, Herts), for her life, and after her death to John de Newdigate, his brother (or son), which John in 1458 granted his reversion to James, his brother. This right was acknowledged by the aforesaid George Danyell, and Letice his wife, and they in 1469 demised the manor to James Newdigate, of London, * Manning and Bray, " Surrey/' vol. ii. pp. 362 — 5. VOL. III. X X 338 HISTORY OF SURREY. grocer, during the life of Letice, on his paying to them yearly, in their manor of Woodwyk, Herts 10 marks sterling. After numerous transfers, on an inquisition on a commission of idiotcy taken at Southwark in 1554, it was found that John Gaynsford, an idiot, aged eighteen, son and heir of Thomas Gaynsford, Esq., was possessed of this manor, and of lands called Dairelonds and Motelonds, &c, in Tandridge and Godstone, held of the manor of Godstone, Anne being his sister and heir, of the age of fifteen. In 1608, or 1610, Thomas Thorp died seized of lands and tenements called Newlands, in Tandridge, held of Sir Thomas Hoskyns as of his manor of Okested, leaving a son and heir, Eichard.* The Manor of Chellows. — This manor extends into the parishes of Lingfield and Limpsfield, but the manor-house is in Crowhurst. It belonged to the family of Gaynsford, y and from John Gaynsford, who held it in 1300, it descended to Sir John Gaynsford, previously mentioned as the father of a numerous progeny by six wives. When the family estates were divided after the death of his idiot grandson, John Gaynsford, the manor of Chellows, or Chellwys, was assigned as the share of his sister Anne, who married William Forster, Esq., and it was released to her by her kinsman, Erasmus Gaynsford, in 1560. She died in 1591, and her son and heir, Sir William Forster, Knt., in 1612 sold this manorial estate to John Hatcher, of Newdigate, who iu the next year alienated it to John Courthopp, Esq., of Lingfield. After passing through various hands it became the property of James Donovan, Esq., who died in 1831. The house is now in the occupation of Mr. Thomas Bitkin. There was a family named Angell settled at Crowhurst before 1615, to which belonged John Angell, Esq., Caterer to James I., Charles I., and Charles II., and Chief Borter at Windsor Castle, who died in 1675 : by his wife Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Eobert Edolph, of Kent, he had twenty children, of whom six sons and three daughters survived him. J In 1785 a gentleman named Angell died at Stockwell, having left a very singular will. It includes a bequest of part of his property to such person or persons as could produce sufficient evidence of descent from an ancestor of Mr. Angell who lived in the reign of Henry YI. : hence has ensued abundance of litigation, greatly to the profit of the retainers of the law. Among the claimants were persons who endeavoured to prove themselves descended from some one of the twenty children of John Angell of Crowhurst. They who, * Maiming, " Surrey," vol. ih. pp. 336, 367, and 379. t In an inscription on the tomb of Erasmus Gaynsford, Esq., of Crowhurst Place, in the cemetery belonging to the parish church, he is styled " the eldest descendant of that famihe, residing there long before the Norman Conquest." Mr. Manning observes, relative to this statement of the antiquity of the family, that if it be correct, the residence must have been at Chellows, which manor, as well as that of Blockfield, in the parish of Lingfield, the Gaynsfords held in the time of Edward III., but how much earlier is not known. (" Surrey," vol. ii. p. 362.) X See epitaph in Crowhurst Church. CROWHURST. 339 through females, were more recently related to the late Mr. Angell of Stockwell, obtained possession of the property without any probability, as it appeared, of being further disturbed. About thirty years ago, however, a person of the name of Angell, in humble life, established his claim to the contested property of an immense amount. The estate of the Angells at Crowhurst had been many years in the possession of the late George Bush, Esq., of Elsenham Hall, Essex, formerly a vinegar maker at Lambeth, and it did not appear that his right therein was affected by the new claim to other portions of the Angell property. Crowhurst Blace. — Crowhurst Blace, mentioned above as the ancient seat of the Gaynsfords, stands nearly a mile south from the church. The house is partly of timber, in panels, other portions having been bricked up, and is chiefly covered with Horsham slate. Much of the wall by which it was formerly surrounded remains, and the moat by which it was also encompassed is still entire. It was long ago converted into a farmhouse. The entrance is by a porch, but not apparently the original one. On the door is a circular iron plate, with a ring attached, by which the latch is opened. This plate, orna mented with open work, had formerly under it a piece of red morocco leather, a relic of the costly style in which the house had been fitted up. The mansion chiefly consisted, so far as may be inferred from the present state of the building, of a large hall reaching up to the roof, a small parlour on the left side, and a large wainscoted parlour, with curiously carved panels, on the right. Around the small parlour, about 14 feet square, and now modernised as a family sitting-room, were formerly several shields of arms painted on small boards, among them being those of France and England impaling Anne of Cleves, or Catherine of Arragon ; and also the arms of Louvaine, Warren, Clare, &c. The large parlour must have been originally a splendid apartment, as the following extract will show : — " The cornice round the great parlour is of open-work, in which are the initials of the name of Gaynsford, in modern Gothic letters, with the grapples (a device of the family) running round the room ; behind the open-work of the cornice is a crimson- coloured ground ; the ceiling consists of fluted girders and joists, which have been painted blue, studded with metal stars gilt." * Much of this costly decoration may still be traced. Over the hall, now appropriated as a kitchen, a floor has been constructed, and chambers made above. Against the wall are some shields of arms painted on small boards, as formerly in the little parlour. In the window were three shields of painted glass (two of which remain), viz. :— - * Manmng and Bray, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 363. x x 2 3+0 HISTORY OF SURREY. 1. Arg. a chev. gu. between three greyhounds sab. collared arg. for Gaynsford; below which is a cross saltire gu. within a bordure, sab. powdered with peUets or, both impaling gu. a chev. arg. between three birds standing arg. 2. G^. a fess erm. charged with an annulet sab. between three martlets or, impahng Gaynsford as before. 3. A grapple double-fluted or, on a white ground, the cable coiled up. The original timber roof of the mansion, elegantly formed and remarkably substantial, is in a perfect state, and apparently capable of enduring for centuries. Henry VIII. is understood to have repeatedly visited Crowhurst Blace in his way to Anne Boleyn, at Hever Castle, four miles distant. The memory of his visits is preserved by a thick double yew hedge in the garden, the planting of which has been idly assigned by tradition to the royal hand. In the farmyard is a barn of extraordinary magnitude and strength, covered with Horsham slate. The Moat House, a handsome farm residence about half a mile from Crowhurst Blace, is remarkable as standing in the three parishes of Tandridge, Crowhurst, and Lingfield. It is the property of Mr. Henry Kelsey, whose family purchased it from the executors of the late T. Lucas, Esq., in 1842. The rectory of Crowhurst was vested in the prior and convent of Tandridge before 1304. In 1537-8 the rectory was granted by Henry VIII. to John Bede (a minor in the guardianship of Lord Cronrwell), with that of Tandridge, and various other livings and estates, in Surrey and other counties, in exchange for Otelands, in Weybridge. John, the son of this John Bede, sold it, in 1576, to Eichard Bostock, Esq., by whom it was transferred, in 1577, to Edward Johnson, who soon afterwards sold it to Francis Wallys. It afterwards came into the family of the Angells, and subsequently into that of the Bushes, of Elsenham Hall, Essex. The living is now a vicarage, in the gift of the Earl of Cottenham, who is also lord of the manor, and who derives from it his second title of Viscount Crowhurst. The Eegisters of baptisms and burials commence in 1567 ; those of marriages in 1573. Vicars in and since 1800 : — 1.— William ITKenstrey, M.A. Instituted in 1790. 2.— Robert Fitzherbert Fuller, M.A. Instituted in 1819. 3.— James Haldane Stewart, jun., M.A. Instituted in 1850. 4.— George Wheelivright, of King's College, London. Instituted in 1859. 5. — Lionel Oliver Bigg, M.A. Instituted in 1876. The church, dedicated to St. George, is a small structure, in the deanery of Ewell. It was valued at 100s. under Edward I. It consists of nave, chancel, and a small south aisle, the length of the former. At the west end is a wooden tower with three bells, having a slender spire of the same material. CROWHURST. 3 Limpsfield and Brodham in Oxted, with court-leet, free-warren, &c, and a pension of 2s. a year paid by the Eector of Lymnesfield. The grantee died in 1556, having bequeathed this manor, with those of Titsey and Brodham, to his eldest son William, on whose death in 1579 Limpsfield was held in dower by his widow, Beatrice, daughter of Thomas Guybonn, of Lynn. This estate descended to Sir Marmaduke Gresham, Bart., who died seized of it in 1742, and by his will, dated 1741, he devised all his estates in Surrey and Kent, certain advowsons excepted, to trustees for sale ; and they sold the whole of the property, except the manor of Titsey, and some farms in that parish, and the advowsons of Titsey and Limpsfield. Bourchier Cleeve, Esq., became the purchaser of the manorial estate of Limpsfield in 1750, after whose death in 1760 it repeatedly changed owners until 1779, when it was bought by Sir John Gresham, son of Sir Marmaduke, who thus recovered his ancestral property. In 1804 it went in marriage with Sir John Gresham's daughter and sole heiress, Katherine Maria, to William Leveson-Gower, Esq.,* third son of the Hon. John Leveson-Gower, an admiral in the royal navy. It is now the property of Granville Leveson-Gower, Esq., of Titsey Blace, grandson of the gentleman above named,. who succeeded to the estate on the death of his father in 1860. Hookwood. — This was an old house which belonged to the Gresham family, one of whom, Edward Gresham, sold it in 1743 to John Godfrey, Esq., who gave it by will to Marmaduke Hylton ; and he bequeathed it, with his estates, in reversion, after the deaths of his three maiden sisters, to Vincent Biscoe, Esq. The house was rebuilt by Vincent Hylton Biscoe, Esq., son of the preceding, from whom the property was purchased in 1840 by William Leveson-Gower, Esq., and is now owned by his grandson. The house is pleasantly situated in a small park near the church. The family of Heath, from which is believed to have descended Eoger Heath, of Shalford, in this county, father of Sir Eichard Heath, of East Clandon, appears to have been settled in Limpsfield and its neighbourhood in early times.f Tenchleys, an old moated house, now considerably reduced in size, and occupied as a * William Leveson-Gower, Esq., was a member of the noble family of Gower, being grandson of John, first Earl Gower, who by his third wife, Mary, widow of Anthony, Earl of Harold, and daughter and coheiress of Thomas, Earl of Thanet, had a son, the Hon. John Leveson-Gower, the admiral above mentioned. Admiral Leveson-Gower married, in 1773, Frances, the daughter of Admiral the Hon. Edward Boscawen. t " Robert, grandson of John Heath, was Sohcitor General to King James I., AttornejT General in 1 Charles I., and Chief Justice of the Common Pleas in 7 Charles I., but was removed four years after. He was made a Judge in the Court of King's Bench in 1640, and Chief Justice there in 1643. He married a daughter of Seyliard, of Brasted Court, in Kent." — (Manning and Beat, Surrey, vol. U. p. 395.) According to Clarendon, Sir Robert Heath was made Lord Chief Justice of the Court of King's Bench for the purpose of attainting the Earl of Essex, and many others then in arms against the King. It is certain he was obnoxious to the Parhament, and that he fled into France. He died at Caen in 1649. He was the author of " Maxims and Rules of Pleading," pubhshed in 1694. r^ ^ LIMPSFIELD. 359 farm, was formerly the habitation of the Holmeden family, one of whom, Sir Thomas, was knighted in 1622. It was subsequently occupied by a Mr. Eauleigh, and afterwards became the property of William Hensman Teulon, Esq., whose residence, called Tenchleys Bark, is on the high ground above it. Stockenden, or Storkenden, an old house with good chimneys, at one time much larger than at present, and now a farm of about 98 acres, was once the residence of the family of De Stawynden, who took their name from the place, and passed afterwards to the Holmedens. It was purchased by Henry Smith, Esq., and given to the parish of Croydon in 1622. Trevereux. — At the foot of the sand hills, on the south-eastern extremity of the parish, is Trevereux, an ancient and respectable house, well protected by the hills on all other quarters, and only open to the south, over which it commands extensive views. This property, with the lands attached, belonged to, and for nearly two centuries was the residence of, the family of Burges, until 1817, when it was purchased by Mr. Cox, whose widow now owns and occupies it. In the centre of the village, near the church, is a house called the Manor House, which once belonged to the ancestors of Mr. Glover, of Eeigate, and afterwards to Samuel Savage, Esq. It was purchased by Mrs. Eugenia Stanhope, widow of Bhilip Stanhope, Esq., the natural son of the Earl of Chesterfield, whose well-known "Letters to his Son" were published by her. It is now the property of Granville Leveson-Gower, Esq. Other residences in this village are the Bower, Bebble Hill, and Detillens, the latter containing some fine oak panelling, a timber roof with king-post, and some chimney- pieces of chalk-stone, temp. Henry VIII. New Hall, an old manor-house of the Gresham family, built by William Gresham about 1560, stood in a meadow at the north-east end of the village. It was standing in 1791, but was pulled down shortly after. Becent excavations have been made on the site, and some curious tiles were found with the letters W- G. and the grasshopper, the Gresham device. Bart of the garden wall still remains. The benefice of Limpsfield is a rectory, in the archdeaconry of Southwark and diocese of Eochester ; valued, 20 Edward I., at 21 marks ; in the King's books at £20 0s. 5d. ; paying synodals 2s. Id., and procurations 6s. 8d. A pension of 2s. used to be paid to the Abbot of Battle. The present patron is Granville Leveson-Gower, Esq. Rectors of Limpsfield in and since 1800 : — 1. — Legh Hoskins Master. Instituted in 1781. 2.— Robert Mayne, M.A. Instituted in 1806. 360 HISTORY OF SURREY. %. —Thomas Walpole, M.A. Instituted in 1841. 4. — James Haldane Stewart, M.A. Instituted in 1846. 5. — Charles Baring, M.A., afterwards Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol, and Bishop of Durham. Instituted in 1855. 6. — Samuel Charlesworth, M.A. Instituted in 1856. 7. — Edward Rhys Jones, M.A. Instituted in 1870. The church, dedicated to St. Beter, was restored in 1872, at a cost of £1,500. It is mainly early English, with perpendicular additions, and consists of tower with low shingled spire, nave with two aisles, and two chancels. In the tower, which is separated from the south aisle of nave by a pointed arch, is a piscina in the south wall, and in the east is a bracket, supposed for an image. It is now used as an organ chamber. The organ, by Hill, was the gift of Arthur Leveson-Gower, Esq. (1872). There are six bells; the four old ones were recast by Warner in 1877, and two new ones added. The south aisle, originally a lean-to, is separated from the nave by three early English arches of excellent design; the north aisle and the west window of nave are modern (1851) and bad. The chancel has a piscina and sedile, with two windows above, opened during the restoration, on the jambs of which are fragments of early English painting. In the south wall, near the ground, is a low side window. The east window is a triple lancet, filled with stained glass by Clayton and Bell ; in the wall below, behind the communion-table, is an aumbry, and to the right a square opening, possibly a reliquary. An early English door, immediately against the east wall, communicated formerly with the north chancel adjoining. It is the property of the lord of the manor, and was restored in 1871. It contains a triple-lancet window with stained glass, representing the Twelve Apostles, erected to the memory of William Leveson-Gower; and on the north side is a square- headed perpendicular window, with fragments of old glass, and a shield with the arms of Gresham. On the wall is a black marble slab to " Dame Martha Gresham, relict of Sir Edward Gresham, Bart., daughter of John Mainard, Knt., Serjeant-at-Law, and one of the Lords Commissioners of the Great Seal of England," who died in 1711-12. There is also a small brass for G. Elyott, Groom of the Chamber to Queen Henrietta Maria (died 1644). The monuments to the Biscoe and Strong families are ranged on the south wall of the south aisle, at the west end of which is an altar tomb with recumbent effigy of John, thirteenth Lord Elphinstone, Governor of Madras and of Bombay, in his peer's robes, by Noble. Against the outside of the west wall of nave is a monument to his uncle, the Hon. Mountstuart Elphinstone, also Governor of Bombay, who occupied Hookwood from 1846 until his death in 1859. LIMPSFIELD. 361 The plain, square, massive stone font is supported by a stout fluted column in the centre, and a small pillar at each corner. The pulpit is hexagonal, and of oak, and, with the communion plate, was presented to the church by Samuel Savage, Esq., in 1766. Under a pew in the chancel there was found, during the restoration, a bronze thurible, or censer, of the eleventh century. It is figured in the Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries, vol. v. p. 285. In the south-west corner of the church is an old white marble tablet representing a curtain fringed with gold, having the arms emblazoned, and recording the death of Mr. Thomas Harrison, who died in 1718. The small brass, with the representation of a chalice, and the resemblance of a spread fan on the top, mentioned by Manning and Bray as at the entrance of the chancel, has disappeared. The only monument in the churchyard claiming particular notice is a raised tomb close to the chancel window, with this inscription : — Memoble Sacrum : Anna, Ricardi Campion de Newton in comitatu Hantoniae armigeri, uxor uMce dilecta, prope has sacras iEdes, proximeq ; quam peT parietem licuit, D'M Edv. Gresham Equitis Aurati, ipsiusq. ; conjugi D'nas Marise sepulcMa. (quorum alteri privigna, alteri fuit filia per Gabrielem Wight de Brockam in com. Surrise armigerum) depositum sub dio suum recondi voluit. Voti compos, in spe beatft resurgendi requiescet. NiMl est ultra, Viator, tecum : Sohtudinem (ne invideas !) hanc sibi deposcit. Mors aequat. Obht Lond. Aug. 19, 1679 ; eetatis suae 56. Forma venusta fugax, vitasq ; fugacia dona Castera : perspexi singula, nulla tuU. In the north-east part of the churchyard are several railed-in burial-places for the Biscoes, &c. ; also one, with an inscription, to the memory of the Eev. Eobert Mayne (and of his wife and family), for thirty-four years rector of this parish, who died in" 1841. The Eegisters commence in 1539, and are nearly perfect to the present time. The following are the only recorded benefactions to the poor of Limpsfield : — 1627. Henry Smith, Esq., by wUl, a rent-charge to the amount of £2 annuaUy, for the rehef of the poor. 1696. John Brett, from the rent of a cottage, 5s. annually, for bread to the poor, at the discretion of officers and vestry. No payment is now received. 1710. John Wood, from a farm called Plum Park, to the poor who are not burdensome, 10s. annually, " to buy 30 Loaves of good bread, every Loaf to cost fourpence, to be distributed to 30 poor people of the Parish in the Church Porch of Limpsfield upon every Good Friday in the forenoon.'' There are National Schools and an Infants' School in Limpsfield ; also a Boys' School supported by Mr. Leveson-Gower. In 1874 a school was built on the common for girls and infants. LINGFIELD. This is a very extensive parish, containing, according to a recent survey, 9,186 acres of land and 53 of water. It borders on the county of Kent, from which it is separated by the vol. hi. 3 A , HISTORY OF SURREY. riv on lev Eden, a branch of the Medway ; on the north it adjoins Crowhurst and Tandridge ; the east, Edenbridge and Cowden, in Kent; on the south, East Grinstead, in Sussex; and Tandridge and Godstone on the west. The soil is chiefly clay* Manning and Bray speak of several extensive commons in this parish :— " Felcote Heath, about 600 acres; Lingfield Common, 300; Dorman's Land and Bacon's Heath, f 500; Simpiere's Green, 20." In reality these wastes never were so extensive as is here represented, and many years ago they were all disposed of, in small parcels, to various individuals. On Lingfield Common was an open chalybeate spring, reputed to possess the same properties as the waters of Tunbridge Wells, but within, the last forty years it has been covered over by the person to whom this part of the common was allotted. In the middle of Blaistow Street in this parish, and in the centre of four crossways, stands a stone obelisk called St. Beter's Cross, with niches in its sides. It is understood to have been surmounted by a cross, on the top of which was a basin, as a recipient of holy water for the use of the church. Formerly the basin, which was of iron, was employed at the chalybeate spring just mentioned. It was afterwards seen on the common. St. Beter's Cross, with a picturesque old oak adjacent, forms an agreeable object to the eye. Manning and Bray mention a field called Chapel Field, the supposed site of a chapel dedicated to St. Margaret; also an adjoining field, called St. Margaret's Field: these are not now recognised, but there is a field known by the name of Margetts Hill. Two inconsiderable annual fairs are held here : one in Blaistow Street, on the feast of St. Beter, to whom, and St. Baul, the church is dedicated ; the other at Dorman's Land, on the 1st of May. Aubrey speaks of the inhabitants of Lingfield as fond of garlands made of the little herb called midsummer silver, which is common in the neighbourhood, but the custom is not now remembered. The practice of appointing certain officers for the parish at the " Sheriff's Tourn " has also been discontinued. * The water which runs through the meadows of Lingfield has three branches, two of them deriving their source from a little rivulet, or spring, on Copthorne Common, in the parish of Burstow, one of which runs over Felcourt Heath, in Lingfield, in a south-eastern direction from Copthorne Common, and then due north. Another runs in a north-eastern direction over Bhndley Heath, in the parish of Godstone, and joins the other branch at the bottom of Lingfield Common, where they form a deep though narrow river called the Eden. The third branch comes from Oxted, and joins it, when the whole, passing through Edenbridge, umtes with the Medway at Penshurst. By means of tMs river the meadows aU through Lingfield are watered, and rendered Mghly productive without other manure. Sometimes, however, it overflows its banks, and carries off the hay wMch it has been the means of producing, or otherwise deteriorates its quality by an intermixture of sand. The hay is a valuable addition to the upland farms, being, when well got in, so nutritious hi quality as to fatten a bullock without other aid. (Manning and Bray, with variations, vol. ii. p. 339.) t Supposed to be a corruption of Beacon's Heath, as, according to tradition, a beacon formerly stood there. The lofty and commanding nature of the spot favours tMs opinion. LINGFIELD. 363 iElfred, a Saxon duke, gave by will 7 hides of land in Lingfield to his wife, Werburga, for life, and afterwards to his daughter Alhdryth and her issue, in default of which to his nearest paternal relatives. He also gave 1 hide at this place to Berhtsige.* Athelfleda, wife of King Edgar, and mother of Edward the Martyr, gave Lingedefeld, with 6 hides and the church, to the Abbey of Hyde.f It is somewhat extraordinary that though the manor of Lingfield, which was of considerable extent, was held by the Abbot of Hyde long after the Norman Conquest, there is no notice of it in the Doomsday Book ; yet the Abbot of St. Beter's, Winchester, as he is styled, is mentioned in that record among the landowners in Surrey, as tenant under the Crown of Sandestede, in the hundred of Waletone. According to the Testa de Nevill, Eobert de Manekeseye held half a knight's fee in Lingefeld, of the Abbot of Hyde, in the reign of Henry III. From some legal proceedings in the time of Edward I., it appears that the abbot had the manor and church of Lingfield, with an inn in Southwark.^ Eeginald de Cobham, who died in 1362, held this manor of the Abbot of Hyde, and it was held by other persons in 1408 and 1417.§ The advowson of the living, which the abbot had held with the manor, must have been alienated in 9 Henry VL, when Eeginald, Lord Cobham, being about to found the college of Lingfield, a license was granted to the Abbot of Hyde to appropriate the advowson for that purpose. The land of the abbot at Lingfield is mentioned in a deed dated in 1489 ; therefore it was probably among the conventual estates at the dissolution of the monastery. There are in this parish the manors of Starborough (or Brinkham), Billeshurst, Badinden (or Buttenden), Bloxfield, Ford, Felcourt, and Sheffield Lingfield. The manor of Felcourt may here be noticed, as having anciently belonged to the Abbey of Hyde. After the suppression of the convent it was granted by Henry VIII. to Sir John Gresham, whose grandson William, in 1589, sold it to John Valentyne. After numerous transfers it was sold to the Turtons, Barts., whose title is now extinct, and has since passed to the Earl of Cottenham. The Manor of Starborough, alias Brinkham. — The mansion or castle of Starborough is in the parish of Lingfield ; but the land belonging to the manor is partly in the parish of Horne, and partly in Edenbridge, Westerham, and Cowden, in Kent. By the custom of this manor the freehold estates thereof are subject, on the death of the tenant, to a heriot of the best live beast, if there be any ; and if none, to a payment of 3s. 6d. as a dead heriot ; and the same on sale, if the freeholder sell his whole estate. The part of the manor which * iElfr. D. Test. Sax. ; Manning, vol. ii. p. 340. t Dugdale, " Monast. Anglican." art. Hyde Abbey. X Placit. cor. apud Guldeford, 7 Edward I. § Vide Escheats of 35 Edward III., 9 Henry IV., and 4 Henry V. 3 a 2 364 HISTORY OF SURREY. extends into Kent is subject to the law of gavelkind. William de Hevere, of Hevere Castle, had a grant of free-warren in Lingefeld in 1281. His daughter and sole heiress married Eeginald de Cobham, of the family of Cobham settled at Cowling, in Kent ; and Eeginald, grandson of the preceding, founded the castle of Starborough in 1342. He held an important command at the battle of Cressy, was engaged in that of Boitiers with the Black Brince, and was a commissioner for the conclusion of the treaty of Bretigny in 1360. This baron was one ofthe victims to the pestilence which ravaged this country in 1361, and which proved fatal to many persons of distinction in Church and State.* His grandson, Eeginald, Lord Cobham, founder of the College of Lingfield, who died in 1446, left two sons and four daughters, among the latter of whom Eleanor became noted as the mistress, and afterwards the wife, of Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, brother of Henry V.y Eeginald, their eldest son, had only one child, Margaret, who became heiress of the family estates, and married Ealph Nevill, Earl of Westmoreland : leaving no surviving issue on her death, the inheritance devolved on her cousin Anne, daughter of Sir Thomas Cobham. This lady was betrothed in infancy to the son and heir of Lord Mountjoy ; but he dying before the marriage was completed, Sir Thomas Borough (a descendant of Hubert de Burgh, Earl of Kent) obtained from Edward IV. the wardship of the heiress, and gave her in marriage to his son, Sir Edward Borough, whose son and heir, Thomas, was summoned to Barliament among the peers ofthe realm in 1530. Starborough, with other estates, was held by the descendants of that nobleman until the reign of Elizabeth. Thomas, Lord Borough, who succeeded to the title in 1594, held various employments, civil and military ; and in 1597, being appointed Lord Deputy of Ireland, he died there shortly after. His only son Eobert dying while a minor in 1602, his four sisters became his coheiresses. The shares of three of those ladies in the manorial estate of Starborough were purchased by Sir Thomas Bichardson, Knt., Chief Justice of the Common Bleas, afterwards * See Stow's Chromcle, p. 418. Reginald, Lord Cobham, married Joan, daughter of Thomas, Lord Berkley (by Margaret, daughter of Roger, Earl of March), who brought him a portion of £2,000 in money, and the lordship of Langley-BurreU, Wilts. After Ms decease that lady held Starborough Castle with other manors for hfe, and died seized thereof in 1369, her son Reginald being then twenty-one years of age. " By her will, she bequeathed her body to be buried in the churchyard of St. Mary Overey, Southwark, before the church-door, where the image of the Blessed Virgin sitteth on high over that door, appomting a plain marble stone to be laid over her grave, with a cross of metal thereon, and in the circumference these words in French to be cut : ' Vans qui per id passietz pur V alme Johane de Cobham prietz ; ' that forthwith after her death 7,000 masses should be celebrated for her soul by the Canons of Fauconbrigge and Tanrigge; and the 4 orders of Friers at London, for which they were to be paid £29 3s. 4d. ; that, upon her funeral day 12 poor people clothed in black gowns and hoods should carry 12 torches : to the church of Lyngefeld she gave a frontore, with the arms of Berkley and Cobham standing on wMte and purple ; to Reginald her son, she bequeathed a ring with a diamond, having given him aU the arms and ammumtion in the wardrobe at Sterburgh." — Dugdale, Bar. ii. 68 ; Manning and Bray, Surrey, vol. ii. p. 341. t Eleanor was the unfortunate lady who, being accused of witchcraft by those who sought her husband's ruin, was sentenced to do pubhc penance in St. Paul's Cathedral on three successive days, and afterwards to be imprisoned for life. LINGFIELD. 365 of the King's Bench, who died in 1634, and lies buried in the south aisle of Westminster Abbey.* He had two wives, by Ursula, the first of whom, he left one surviving son and four daughters ; but he had no issue by Elizabeth Beaumont, his second wife, relict of Sir John Ashburnham, Knt., who died in 1621. That lady was created Baroness Cramond in Scotland, by letters-patent of Charles I., in 1628; and the title was limited to Thomas Bichardson (afterwards knighted), son of the judge by his former wife, and the heirs male of the judge. Sir Thomas, who became a Baron of the Exchequer in Scotland, dying in 1642, before his mother-in-law, never had the title, which, however, devolved upon his son Thomas, called Lord Bichardson. That gentleman, who represented Norfolk in Barliament from 1661 until his decease in 1675, sold the property to William Saxby, Esq., who also obtained the remaining fourth part of the manor in the year last mentioned. Successively owned by the Saxbys, Burrows, Turtons, and Smiths, the executors of the latter disposed of it to John Tonge, Esq., from whom it passed to Mr. F. Bamford. About 1870 the castle f again changed hands, having been purchased by Mr. James Stocks Moon. The house built by Sir James Burrow, and to which Sir Thomas Turton added a dining-room and a drawing-room, was pulled down with the exception of the latter, and a new mansion erected by the late Mr. Tonge. A room built by Sir James Burrow within the moat yet remains, and a court was held in it in 1842. It is usual to hold a court once in about nine years. The Manor op Badinden. — This manor (the name of which is variously spelt in * FuUer, in Ms brief notice of Judge Richardson (" Worthies,'' vol. U. p. 130, edit. 1811), Mnts that he hved too near Ms own time to be spoken of fully, "seeing many will be ready to carp." Dart, in Ms " History of St. Peter's, West minster," explains tMs " by telUng us that he was the Judge who, to please the faction of the time, issued an order against the ancient custom of Wakes (generaUy held on a Sunday, and in the churchyard), and ordered every minister to read it in his church. TMs encroachment on Ecclesiastical authority was complained of by Laud, then Bishop of Bath and Wells [afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury], who got a Certificate, signed by seventy of Ms ablest Clergy, of the inoffensiveness of those diversions ; which being reported at the CouncU table, Richardson was then so severely repri manded, that he came out complaining that he ' had been almost choaked with a pah of lawn sleeves. " — Manning, Surrey, vol. U. p. 345. t Starborough Castle was in such a state in the time of Charles I. as to receive a garrison, and it was occupied by the Parhament's forces. After the King's death the House of Commons (in 1648-49) ordered that it should be referred to the Committee at Derby House to take care of this castle amongst others, and to put it in such a condition that no use might be made of it to the endangering the peace of the Mngdom. Sir James Burrow had a rude drawing of the icono graphy of Starborough Castle, and of the moat by wMch it was surrounded. He had also a very rude ancient map, intended to show the general situation of the castle with respect to the tMee nearest churches, Lingfield, Edenbridge, and Cowden. In the corner of the map was a smaU sketch of the elevation of the castle. It appears to have had a round tower, with a dome, at each corner. The drawbridge was shown, and also that there was a court in the centre. The area, including the moat, was 13 acres and half a rood ; exclusively of the moat, hah an acre and 2 square poles. Sir Thomas Turton had the moat cleaned out, preserving exactly its original hues ; and it " is now a fine piece of water, supplied by a spring rising in one of the farms, about two miles distant, and brought the last quarter of a mUe under ground by a wide drain. It has a constant current, and, after supplying the house and offices, fails into the river Eden." — Manning and Beat, Surrey, vol. U. pp. 346, 347. 366 HISTORY OF SURREY. different records) belonged, in the reign of Edward I., to a family called Badynden, or Botyndene. John, the son of Adam de Bodyndene, died in 1362, seized of this manor, which was divided between his cousins and heirs. In 1477 Eeginald Sand, or Sond, held this manor, which in 1640 belonged to Sir George Sondes, K.B. ; from him it descended to Lewis Watson, Earl of Eockingham, who died in 1742. His nephew, Watson, Lord Sondes, sold the estate to Abraham Atkins, Esq., who left it to his nephew, Edwin Martin Atkins, whose son, of the same name, was owner of the property in 1808. Since the death of that gentleman the property has been in the hands of his trustees. By the custom of this manor the best live beast is due for a heriot ; and if there be no live beast, a dead heriot of 3s. 4d. Manor op Blokesfield, or Shovelstrode (pronounced, according to Manning and Bray, Shosterwood). — Eoland de Acstede, or Oxted, whose family had an estate at Oxted from the time of the Conquest till 1291, was lord of this manor, and on his death his daughters became his coheiresses. It afterwards belonged to the family of Gaynsford, and in 1697 William Gaynsford, Esq., died seized ofthe manor, leaving two daughters only. Edward Johnson, who married one of them, purchased the share of the other daughter; and his grandson, William Johnson, in 1727 sold the estate to Bercival Lewis and others. It was again sold in 1764 to John Major, Esq., afterwards made a baronet, who had two daughters : Anne, married to John Henniker, Esq., and Elizabeth to Henry, Duke of Chandos. Sir John Henniker Major, son of the former, was created an Irish baron in 1800, and, dying in 1803, was succeeded by his son, the second Lord Henniker, who held this manor jointly with the Duchess of Chandos in 1807. It was afterwards the property of Patrick Byrne, Esq., who left it at his death to a Mrs. Gwilliam. The manor of Ford, or La Ford, belonged to the Gaynsfords before 1582. William Gaynsford, who died in 1679, held Ford as well as Blokesfield, and the former of these estates came into the possession of his son-in-law, Edward Johnson. After passing through various hands Ford was purchased by the late Norman Morris, Esq., who built a mansion which has recently been enlarged and improved by the present owner and occupier, Joseph Spender Clay, Esq. New Blace was the estate of a family named Turner in the seventeenth century. In 1729 John Wicker, Esq., alienated lands in the manor of Ford to John Hopkins, and this estate was devised by him to his cousin, John Hopkins, who died about 1754. By the trustees of the latter it was conveyed in 1777 to Benjamin Bond Hopkins, Esq., of Bains Hill, whose daughter and sole heiress married Eichard Mansell Phillips, Esq., whose family ultimately possessed the property. LINGFIELD. 3&7 The manor of Browns is partly in this parish, partly in Limpsfield, and extends into the parish of Edenbridge, in Kent, where is situated the mansion or manor-house. This estate anciently belonged to a family named Brown, from whom it passed in 1538; on the marriage of John At-Lee with the daughter and heiress of Henry Brown. It came at length into the possession of Beecher Walter, who dying intestate and without issue about 1757, the Surrey portion of the manorial estate descended to his eldest brother, and the Kentish portion to his two brothers jointly, by the custom of gavelkind. They sold it to John Boddington, Esq., on whose death it descended to his daughter, married to the Hon. Frederick Lumley, to whom it belonged in 1808. The Manor of Sheffield. — Sir John Dalyngrigge was lord of this manor in 1408. It was one of the estates of Thomas, Duke of Norfolk, executed for a conspiracy against Queen Elizabeth in 1572. The manor of Sheffield, having thus escheated to the Crown, was granted by James I. to Thomas, Earl of Arundel. It belonged in 1808 to Thomas Trevor, Viscount Hampden. The manor of Billeshurst now belongs to Harvey Hughes, Esq. A district called the Gildable, now unknown, is supposed to have been the Queen's Woods, in which certain persons claimed estovers. " In 25 Elizabeth, Thomas Kente and George Holmden paid money to her Majesty's surveyor within this county for their more quiet possession of their customs in the woods and underwoods, on certain Commons called Dorman's Lands, Baldyes-hill Common, Hilde Heath, and Bakin's (Paeon's, or Beacon's) Heath, within her Majesty's Gyldable in Lyngfield. It was agreed that the said Kente, and the lady his wife, during such time as they should inhabit and keep houses at their then mansion called Apesselystowne in the Gildable in Lingfield, should have certain quantities, and Holmden others, whilst he lived at Battners in Lyngfield." * There is still a messuage called Apsleytown in this parish. In 1808 it was the property and residence of Eobert Bostock, Esq., and it descended to the nephew of that gentleman, of the same name. Dorman's Land. — In 1489 John Underhelde, sen., of Lingfield, granted to Alice Croker, daughter of John Croker, formerly of that parish, certain lands called Newhache- croft and Dermannyslond, " on condition that she find yearly, for ever, a wax taper of two pounds weight before the Trinity in the church of Lyngfield. The seal is annexed, tied with a piece of rush, perhaps as livery of the land." f Amongst the seats in the parish of Lingfield may be mentioned Wilderwick, the residence of Mr. Cuthbert Geddere Fisher ; Apsley House, occupied by General James Barr ; Chartham Park, belonging to Major Alfred B. Marjary ; Farindons, to Capt. * From information communicated to Manning and Bray by the late Mr. Glover. t Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 352. 368 HISTORY OF SURREY. James St. Clair; Starborough Castle, Felcourt House, and Ford Manor, already mentioned. Lingfield College.*— In 9 Henry VI. Eeginald, Lord Cobham, obtained a license to found a college, and convert the parish church of Lingfield into a collegiate, establishment, endowed with lands to the value of £40 a year. He then erected, at the west end of the churchyard, a house containing apartments for a provost, or master, six chaplains, and certain clerks of the Carthusian order. When Aubrey wrote this building was perfect, but in the reign of George I. most of it was taken down, and a farmhouse built on part of the site.f Additions were made to the original endowment in 1449 by Ann Cobham, lady of Sterburgh, and Sir Thomas Cobham. According to Manning the collegiate seal " has on one side St. Beter with a crosier and keys, and on the other the Virgin Mary." The estates belonging to this foundation consisted of a collegiate church, with the glebe, value £26; Neuland Mill and Byhall, with some lands, £3 13s. 4d. ; the manor of Hexted, with lands called Innetts, £14 ; a garden there, with a messuage, 10s. ; another messuage, 10s. ; a tenement and lands called Martens, £1 ; certain parcels of land, ls. ; quit-rents and services of divers tenements of Lyngefeld, £2 2s. 2|d. ; the park of Lyng- efeld, called Byllies Bark, with the lands called Jordan's Land, £6 ; tenements and lands called Calcots, in Tattersfield, £3 6s. 8d. ; an inn called the Green Dragon, in Southwark, £3 ; in Kent, lands called Baynters, in Westram, £1 6s. 8d. ; the manors of Byriton and Broke, with lands, £3 ; lands called Coll Aleyns, 13s. 4d. ; the manor called Squyres in Westram, aud lands adjoining, £5 17s. 8d. ; quit-rents of the manor of Squyres, £2 ; land called Littlecote, £1 3s. ; land called Forlesland, 12s. ; the manor of Hoothlyght in Lamberhurst, Kent and Sussex, with other lands in the same parts, £5 ; in all, £79 15s. lOJd. subject to deductions amounting to £4 15s. lO-^-d., leaving a clear income of £75 per annum. In 1544 Thomas Cawarden, Gentleman of the Privy Chamber to the King, obtained a grant of the collegiate church of Lingfield, with the estate belonging to it, which he resigned in 1547 for the purpose of having it renewed with additions, and in the reign of Edward VI. the grant was confirmed by Act of Parliament. He was the first " Master of the Bevels at Court," to which office he was appointed in 1546. William Cawarden, * No account of Lingfield College was given by Dugdale, and the brief notice in the last edition of the "Monasticon'' (vol. vi. p. 1469) is scarcely worth a reference. t Aubrey says he had seen no remains of a religious house so entire. " The first story was of freestone ; above that brick and timber. Within was a square court with a cloister round it. In the west window of the Hall was, Orate pro bono statu John Gaynsford et fenestram. There was a convenient handsome HaU and Parlour ; above the Priest's table was the canopy of wainscot, as in Lincoln's Inn Hall. In one of the windows, Auxilium mihi semper d Domino." LINGFIELD. 369 nephew and heir of Sir Thomas, in 1560 had a license to alienate the manor of Lingfield, with other estates, to William, Lord Howard of Effingham. This property descended to Francis, the seventh Baron of Effingham, who settled it on his second wife, Anne Bristow ; and she, having survived his lordship, devised these estates by will, in 1774, to trustees for sale. In 1776 Dr. Frank Nicholls became the purchaser of the manor or College of Ling field, the manor of Billeshurst, the rectory, the patronage of the vicarage, all tithes, &c. ; a capital messuage, and site of the college, with certain farms and lands. He died in 1778, and his son and heir, John Nicholls, Esq., after having disposed of part of the tithes, sold the remainder of the rectory, the farms and lands, and the manor of Billeshurst to the trustees of Eobert Ladbroke, Esq., in 1803.* The benefice of Lingfield, formerly regarded as a perpetual curacy, is now a vicarage. Curates and Vicars of Lingfield since 1800 : — 1. — William McKinstry. Appointed in 1788. 2.— Robert FitsHerbert Fuller, M.A. Appointed in 1819. 3. — Thomas Palmer Hutton, M.A. Instituted in 1849. 4. — James Fry, M.A. Instituted in 1855. 5. — James Thomas, M.A. Instituted in 1863. The church, dedicated to St. Beter and St. Baul, is situated about a quarter of a mile from Blaistow Street, the principal street in the parish. It is built of a darkish- coloured stone, and covered with Horsham slate, and is very large and massive. It consists of nave, north and south aisles, and a large chancel. At the west end of the south aisle is a cumbrous tower, surmounted by a low, shingled spire with five bells. The north aisle is separated from the nave by pointed arches, and on the north side is a small stone tower to the height of the roof. It has a door on the outside, but does not appear to have any internal communication. Interiorly the church is light, open, and spacious, with an effect somewhat imposing. There are two steps into the chancel, which is separated from the nave by a wooden screen, a similar screen on each side dividing the chancel from the north and south aisles. Amongst some remains of painted glass in the centre light of the great east window is a woman sitting with a musical instrument in her hand, and in each of the side lights are remnants of pinnacled buildings, &c. Several of the windows contain portions of ornamented borders in painted glass, and in the windows of the north aisle are some female faces. The nave and aisles are waggon-roofed with timber. The pulpit, of carved oak with a sounding-board, is * Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. ii. pp. 339—367. VOL. III. 3 B 3?0 HISTORY OF SURREY. hexagonal. Two or three of the old oaken pews in the south aisle have elaborately carved panels. Eight or ten of the collegiate stalls,, with seats to turn up, have been removed into pews; on the lower side of these seats are representations of angels, grotesque heads, shields, &c, carved in very bold relief. The font is octagonal, large, massive, old, and much decayed. Its sides are ornamented with quatrefoils, in the centre of each a rose, and in each of two of the roses is the representation of a human or angelic face. The pedestal, also octangular in form, is relieved with niches. At the east end of the south aisle is an oaken desk, on which are a black-letter Bible and Brayer-book. At the side hangs a chain, formerly attached to the Bible, which for its preservation has been injudiciously rebound : the style of the, ancient binding ought to have been preserved. At the end of the desk is a small aperture, within which, according to tradition, the holy water used to. be kept in a basin, and was supplied from the basin anciently on the top of St. Beter's Cross tin Plaistow Street. In the floor of the chancel, on each side of the rails of the communion-table, are rude figures embedded in the red tiles of the pavement : one figure is green, the other yellow. They are supposed to be collegiate remains, and originally occupied another position. Against the wall, on the north side of the principal east window, hangs an ancient helmet with its crest, a memorial, probably of -the Cobham family. This church -contains various costly and-noble memorials of the departed great, several fine brasses, some perfect, some nearly so, and others .seriously injured not only by the hand of time, but by that of fanaticism and wanton mischief. In the have, immediately before the chancel, is a large and elaborately executed .altar tomb, considerably mutilated, oil which are whole-length figures of a knight and his lady, beautifully sculptured in white marble. The knight is in armour, his head sustained by a helmet, his feet resting on a dog, and a glove lying by his right side. He is without a. beard, and his hair is bound over the temples with a fillet.: crest — -a man's head, barbed. The lady's head is supported by two angels, and her feet rest on a winged dragon. At the east end are four shields of arms, viz. :— 1. Gu. a lion ramp. arg. 2. Gu. on a chev. or, three stars, sab. 3. Az. three cinquefoils, or. 4. Az. a sea-horse, winged, or. At the west end are seven shields, and the same number on the north and south sides. In the hollow of a moulding round the upper part of the tomb are several pins, by which a brass fillet bearing an inscription appears to have been fastened. Against the north wall is an old altar tomb covered with a slab upwards of 7 feet long, LINGFIELD. 37* on which is a "brass full-length figure of Eeginald, Lord Cobham, who died in 1403. He is represented in plate armour, with a pointed helmet, or skull-cap, and a hood of mail ; he has also a skirt of mail, and wears a sword, dagger, and large spurs. This figure, which is 5 feet 8 inches in height, is in excellent preservation ; but part of the crested helmet on which the head reposed has been removed, together with two- small shields of arms. The inscription is as follows : — ~§z cStorahwrgh bamixi bz ffiohham, six ^.zcjimxlbvce -f- Hie i&at hie bartons + Jttih* fait ut Izoyxxbnz I-Mis + In zxmztis tzxxiss i amam pxzbitbit honoris + Jaflsilis -f in mensis + ioxmoexxs + mozxQzvosxxz + l-argMs in zxntnais impzxtzxittxe + senerosns + etxr»anbix + vltitxxit + nussi* + qb + moMwtnr + (Expirans + obijt + itt xzlis + fxloxiitiztixx' + milk +.alnxbxina,ztxo -f- trim. Jfnllii ; . . . + ffixQX&bit + tzlo + sit + tiii + bzxx + qnus + gVmen + $atcv + xxosizx. Here are several monuments, gravestones, and brasses of the Barons Howard of Effingham and their families. Against the south wall of the chancel, over the vestry door, are two elaborately carved white marble shields, between the upper parts of which is a baron's coronet over the arms, richly emblazoned, of Howard, impaling Belham. The inscription on one shield records the memory of Francis, Lord Howard, of Great Bookham, in this county, fifth Baron Effingham, whose first wife was Bhiladelphia, daughter of Sir Thomas Belham, Bart., of Laughton, in Sussex, great-grandfather of Thomas, Duke of Newcastle.* This nobleman, Governor of Virginia in the reign of Charles II., died in 1694. The second shield is inscribed to the memory of the Lady Philadelphia mentioned above, who died in 1685. Beneath the inscription are two hands supporting a heart, with the word Resurgemus. Westward, against a pillar between the nave and the south aisle, is another large white marble tablet, richly sculptured with flowers and foliage, and the arms emblazoned, with this inscription : — ¦ Here lyeth interred the body of the truly noble and. religious Lady Mary Howard, late wife of Thomas, Lord HowarU, Baron of Effingham ; t by whom shee had two daughters, Ann and Mary. She was the only chUd of Rushia Wentworth, Esquire, of Cleave in the Isle of Thanet, in Kent. Her piety towards God and charity to the poor, her sincere affection in her conjugal state, her tender love and parental care in the education of her chUdren, her pleasing gravity, courteous and affable behaviour in being generously just to all, were very conspicuous to every one that truely knew her ; and as shee was happy ly endowed with alhthe vertues that adorn the great and good, so they never forsook her till, with true humility, under the stroak of a cruell distemper, shee patiently resigned her life the 29th day of May, anno Dom. 1718. North of. the communion-table, adjoining the screen separating the east end of the nave from the north aisle, is a large marble altar tomb, with the whole-length effigy of a man in armour ; his head in mail, resting on a cushion, originally supported by two marble figures, now * His lordship's second wife was Susan, daughter of Sir T. H. Henry Felton, of Playford, in the county of Suffolk, and widow of Thomas Herbert, Esq. t Son of Francis, fifth baron, by the Lady PhUadelphia, his wife, 3 B 2 3?2 HISTORY OF SURREY. much mutilated ; his feet resting against a small figure of a man with a long beard, and a turban on his head, which is supported by his right hand. This eastern figure is supposed to refer to some exploit in the Crusades. On the north side of the tomb are four shields :— 1, a cross flory ; 2, a chevron, impaling the same ; the bearings on the two others are obliterated : those on the west end, and at the south side, are also nearly obliterated. There is no inscription. In the nave, westward of the Cobham monument above described, is a small female figure in brass, her hands as in prayer, her mantle fastened with two roses on her breast : this is supposed to be a memorial of the Howards, but the inscription is lost. Still farther towards the west is another small mutilated brass figure, the inscription of which is also lost. On the south side of the first of these brasses is a flat blue stone with the arms of Howard, and thus inscribed : — Hie dormit corpus Caeoli Howaed, militis, filii Francisci Howard, militis, amborum de Bookham Magna, in hoc comitatu, qui, heu ! animam expiravit vicesimo die Martis, anno Dom'i 1672, annoque Eetatis quinqua- gesimo septimo. Reswgemus. On another flat blue stone, southward of the Cobham monument, is an inscription to " the deare memory of the honble Charles and Bhiladelphia Howard, son and daughter of the right honble the Lord Howard of Effingham and Bhiladelphia his wife," who died in 1684, "to the perpetual greefe of their surviving father; and of their second daughter, Margaret, who died in 1685." In the north aisle, on a brass plate, beneath the figure of a woman praying, is the inscription, " Orate pro animS, Katerine Stokett." On a black marble gravestone in the chancel, with armorial bearings displaying, on a chevron between three ostriches, as many mullets — Widnell; between three birds, impaling three cinquefoils, in chief a lion passant, is this inscription : — ¦ Vana salus hominis. Pietati sacrum. Siste gradum, Viator, et hoc sepulchrum cerne, et quem cepit comprehendere. Gulielmus WidneUus * hie jacet mortuus, antiquS sobole prognatus. Theatrum humihtatis itemque sccena squahda virtutis inest : charitatem sanguinis hie exuperavit candoris, probitatis dotibus, quem decimo octavo die Novembris mors eripuit immatura. Denatus a.d. mdclxii. Desist those prophane feet, forbeare To fowle this haUowed marble, where Lies Vertue's, Goodnes', Honour's heire. 'Cause the world not worthy him to have, The great Jehovah shut him in this grave. Memorials of the Farindon family, of Battners, in this parish, are numerous from 1730. On a white marble tablet against the north wall in the chancel is the following .inscription to the memory of Sir James Burrow : — * Of a family formerly residing at Shaves, in Tandridge. LINGFIELD. 373 Born 28th Nov. 1701, 0. S. Died 5th Nov. 1782, N. S. Underneath he the remains of Sir James Bueeow, of Starborough Castle in this parish, knt. ; many years FeUow, and above 30 years Vice President, and twice occasional President, of the Royal Society ; also Fellow and once Vice-President of the Antiquarian Society of London; and honorary member of the Soci<5t<5 des Antiquites de Cassell ; Master of the Crown Office, and Senior Bencher of the honourable Society of the Inner Temple. Few or none perhaps have passed through hfe better contented with their lot, or have enjoyed it with more satisfaction and thankfulness. The convivial character was what he chiefly affected, as it was his constant wish to be easy and cheerful himself, and to see others in a hke disposition. Arms: — Az. three fleurs-de-lis, erm.; between the two upper, a muUet, of the last. Amongst numerous tombs and gravestones in the churchyard is one to the memory of Frances, relict of Charles Howard, Knt., of East Wick, in Great Bookham, and daughter of Sir George Courthop, Knt., of Whyly, in Sussex. Also some to the Saxby family, of Lingfield, in this county. There is a good vicarage-house, with about 7 acres of ground attached, in a corner of which the house stands, and the rent of it goes to make up the vicar's stipend. The vicar age is endowed with a portion of the great tithes, amounting to £35 per annum, together with a grant from Queen Anne's Bounty of £49 19s. 8d. The vicarage and villa were built about thirty years ago by the late Thomas Alcock, Esq. The Eev. Wilmot Guy Bryan is patron. The Eegisters of this parish are in a good state of preservation : the baptisms commence in 1559, the burials and marriages in 1561. In the beginning of the oldest Eegister are the following singular lines : — " Dayes of marriage. Conjugium Adventus prohibet, HUarique relaxat, Septuagena vetat, sed Paschse Octava relaxat, Rogamen vetitat, concedit Trina potestas. Infcelix multis, Bijra est mihi Litera foelix ; Si Bavarov scribit, scribit et Ula Btov. Mors tua, mors Christi, Fraus Mundi, Gloria Cceh, Et Dolor Inferni, sint meditanda tibi." * The recorded donations to this parish, all the annual produce of land, and all by will, are as follows : — 1627. Henry Smith, Esq., for the relief of aged poor and large famUies, £10. 1659. John Hole, Esq., for the relief of poor people, £2 8s. 1709. William Saxby, Esq., for ten poor people, in coats and gowns, on Good Friday, £\Q 10s. 1716. John Piggot, Esq., for 120 poor people, on Good Friday, £2. The only foundation for a school in Lingfield, observe Manning and Bray,f consists of an annuity of £2 10s. issuing out of a house in the parish, given by some person now * Thy death, ye death of Christ, ye world's temptation, Heaven's joy, Hell's torments be yy meditation. t " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 357. 374 HISTORY OF SURREY. unknown, for the purpose of teaching five poor children of the parish, to be nominated by the minister, churchwardens, and overseers. There are now two schoolrooms at Lingfield, one for boys, and the other for girls ; also a school in each of the two hamlets,. Dorman's Land and Baldwyn Hill. The school at the last-named place was built through the efforts of the present vicar. The population of the parish is about 2,500, and its area about 16 square miles. OXTED, OR OXTEAD. This parish is pleasantly situated below the chalk hills bordering on Woldingham and Chelsham on the north, on Limpsfield and Titsey on the east, on Tandridge and Crowhurst on the south, and Tandridge and Godstone on the west. The soil to the north is chalk ; in the centre, sand or sandy loam ; and in the south, clay, forming nearly equal divisions, and running from east to west. In the digging of wells oyster- shells of large size are frequently found at a depth of 30 feet, and then water is obtained in abundance. Here is some of the best irrigated meadow land in the county. The parish contains 3,659 acres, and is of the ratable value of £7,000. Barrow Green, in Oxted, derives its name from a large barrow, supposed to have been thrown up after some battle with the Danes, by whom this part of the country was much infested. It adjoins the old Bilgrims' Boad. A spring which rises at Barrow Green, and another to the north-east, under the hill at Titsey, meet in this parish, and run into the Medway. These waters are celebrated for trout. In the Doomsday Book the manor is thus described : — " Earl Eustace (of Bologne) holds Acstede, which Githa, the mother of Harold, held in the time of King Edward. It was then assessed at 20 hides ; now at 5 hides. The arable land amounts to 20 carucates. There are 2 carucates in the demesne ; and thirty-five villains, with 18 carucates. There are two mills, valued at 12s. 6d., and 4 acres of meadow. The wood yields one hundred swine for pannage. In Southwark is one messuage, valued at 2d. ; and six bondmen, and nine bordars. There is a Church. In the time of King Edward it was valued at £16 ; when it was received, at £10 ; at present, at £14." The parish includes five manors, or reputed manors, namely, those of Oxted, Birstead, Broadhams, Foyle, and Stoketts. The Manor of Oxted. — In the reign of John a part of this manor was held of the King in capite, as of the honour of Bologne, by the service of two knights' fees, by Hugo de Nevill ; and a certain part of the manor was held of the same honour, and by the same OXTED. 37S service, from the Conquest of England, by Eoland de Acstede.* In 1216 King John granted to Nevill the land of Eoland, probably a ward of the Crown, for he afterwards had possession of the estate, and died seized of it in 1240. That portion of Oxted which had belonged to Hugo de Nevill was transferred with his daughter in marriage to John de Cobham, of Starborough, in Lingfield. After repeated transfers this inheritance devolved on a Mrs. Master, who died in 1807, and left it to her son, the Eev. Legh Hoskins Master, f to whose grandson, Charles Hoskins Master, Esq., it now belongs. According to a survey taken in 19 Elizabeth, the manor of Oxted contained 605 acres, besides the commons and waste grounds. The residence of C. H. Master, Esq., the lord of the manor, is Barrow Green House, a substantial and handsome brick mansion. The manor of Birstead, Biersted, or Bursted, anciently belonged to the priory of Tandridge. At the dissolution it was granted to John Bede, Esq. After a rapid succes sion of owners it was eventually purchased, as was also the Hall estate, by Sir William Weller Bepys, Bart., whose grandson, the Earl of Cottenham, is the present owner. The manor of BroadhAms, in the centre of the parish, anciently belonged to the Abbey of Battle. It was granted, with Limpsfield, in 1539, to Sir John Gresham, % from whom it descended to his eldest son William in 1557. "In a rental of Oxted, in 1568, William Gresham is said to hold this manor, and that there were 300 acres in demesne."§ From him it passed, with the Titsey estate, to Sir Mamaduke Gresham (son of Edward Gresham), M.B. forEast Grinstead in' 1660, and created a baronet in the same year.|| About 1800 a Mr. Bryant purchased the estate, but subsequently surrendered it to the executors of the Duke of Norfolk, who had a mortgage on it, and from them it was purchased by Colonel Clayton. After his death it was sold to Edward Kelsey, Esq., the present owner. The manor of Foyle (Foyllye, or Fuyllye) was, in 1362, granted by John de Watesham to Wm. '.de Staffihurstj two of whose -daughters^ Margaret and Catherine, appear to have * Testa de Nevill, p. 225. + Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. U. pp. 383 — 5. X Sir John Gresham was descended from an ancient family settled in Norfolk so far back as the time of Edward III. He was the third son of John Gresham, of Holt, in that county, by Ahce, daughter and' heiress of Andrew Blyke. He was an eminent merchant in London. His elder brother, Sir Richard, also a merchant, was the father of Sir Thomas Gresham, who buUt the Royal Exchange and founded Gresham College. Sir John was Sheriff of London in 1537, and Lord Mayor in 1547; in both of which offices his brother, Sir Richard, had preceded him a few years. He died in 1557 seized of the manors of Titsey, Limpsfield, Broadhams, Oxted, Warhngham (with the rectory), Sanderstead, and the burgh of Langhurst, Rowholt, and Woldingham, leaving Wilham his son and heir. This Wilham had issue two sons, Wilham and Thomas, and three daughters ; and by will, dated 1575, he devised the manors of Titsey and Limpsfield, with other estates, to his wife Beatrice for her life, with remainder to his younger son, Thomas Gresham, to whom he gave estates in Limpsfield and other places. William, the eldest son and heir-at-law, had only one child, named Ehzabeth. By deed, dated 1593, he ratified the will of his father, by which Titsey, Limpsfield, and other estates were given to his younger brother Thomas. Elizabeth, the daughter of William, died without issue. Thomas, her uncle, was knighted, and was succeeded by his son John, also knighted, who, by deed dated 1630, is described as his second son, though no elder son is named. John died in 1643, leaving no issue : his brother Edward, mentioned as his third son, succeeded to his estates. § Vide Manning and Bray's " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 387. || See the account of Titsey. 376 HISTORY OF SURREY. been married to John Marchant and William Marchant. In 1401 the said John Marchant granted to Stephen At-Lee and Simon Dane all such lands as descended to him on the death of Dionysia Barker, his mother, and such lands in Okested as he stood possessed of by feoffment in Stalkynden. In 1420 At-Lee and Dane granted to Sir John Gaynsford and others, in trust for him, all lands, rents, and services, &c, in Okested called La Foyle. In 1424 all the parties except Gaynsford reconveyed to At-Lee; and two years afterwards Gaynsford conveyed to him, reserving a road to his mill at Crowhurst and a rent of 22s. In 1608 Thomas, Earl of Dorset, died seized ofthe manor of Foyle in Okested, Godstone, Lingfield, and Tanrige. It afterwards successively belonged to Anthony Farindon, Esq., of Lingfield ; Thomas Streatfield, of Stone Hall, in Oxted ; and Mr. Wells, a banker, of Wigmore, near Bromley. On Mr. Wells's bankruptcy in 1841, it was again sold, William Leveson-Gower, Esq., of Titsey, being the purchaser. Of the manor, or reputed manor, of Stoketts little appears to be known. In 1345 John Stoket granted land to Sir Eobert Stangrave and Dame Joan his wife, lying between their wood on one part, and the Abbot of Battle's land on the other. In the following year " Eoger at Stoket, son and heir of John, was in ward to the lord of the manor of Okested ; and the bailiff charges, as paid for his commons going to school, lOd. a week for 30 weeks (seven weeks being deducted when he was at Sterborough), and lid. paid for cloth for one pair of hose, and ld. for sewing, and lOd. for two pah- of shoes." * John Stoket's daughter and heiress, Dionese, left three daughters and coheiresses, who married respectively John Gens, John Ounsted, and William Banaster. Banaster appears to have parted with his third. In 1577 William Causten held one third, James Gens one third {i.e. the manor- house and 34 acres), and John Ounsted the other third. Causten's part continued in his descendant, William, of the fourth generation, in 1690.J Stone Hall, a seat in this parish, was purchased after the death of Col. Clayton by Edward Kelsey, Esq., above mentioned. Oxted is a rectory, in the archdeaconry of Southwark and diocese of Eochester. It was rated in the Valor of Edward I. at £16 ls. 4d. ; in the Liber Eegis at £24 6s. O^d., paying 2s. ld. for synodals, and 6s. 8d. for procurations. Patron, C. H. Master, Esq. Rectors of Oxted in and since 1800 : — 1. — Thomas Thorp. Instituted in 1794. 2.— W. Master Pyne, M.A. Instituted in 1827. 3. — Frank Parnell, M.A. Instituted in 1869. * Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 389. t " This family has been long here, and of some note ever since the Reformation." — Idem, p. 391. OXTED. m Oxted Church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is situated about half a mile from the street of the village, on the top of one of those beautiful knolls with which this part of the country abounds. It is built of stone, with a tiled roof, having at the west end a large low tower, surmounted by a turret containing five bells. It has a nave, chancel, and north and south aisles, separated from the nave by columns supporting three obtuse-pointed arches on each side. Tradition states that the chancel was injured by lightning a little previously to 1637, which date over the east window records a restoration; but from the following entry, copied from the parish Eegister, the church appears to have been more severely visited in 1719 :— " Oxted church and chancel was burnt by a great tempest of lightning July 17th, 1719. The fire began about one o'clock in the morning, in the top of the spire, and melted the five bells." — " The present five bells were hung, and first rung in peal, on the 5th Nov. 1729 " The first, second, third, and fourth bear this inscription :— Ricaedtjs Phelps me fecit, 1729 : Ab Omni Fulgure defende nos Domine. The fifth is thus inscribed : — Good Folks with one accord We caU to hear God's Word We honour to the King Joy to Brides do sing We Triumphs loudly teU And Ring your last Farewell. After the second fire a wooden-framed window was placed in the chancel, two similar windows in the south aisle, and two in the north aisle. The east window and those in the north aisle were taken out in 1838, and other handsome windows, presented to the church by a former rector, placed in their stead. At the same time C. L. H. Master, Esq., presented one for the south aisle, and the expense of another was defrayed by a subscrip tion of the parishioners. The entrance is by the south porch, on the right of which is a sundial, re-erected in 1815. The pulpit is hexagonal, and of plain oak, about the date of 1720. The font is a small square stone basin, supported by a cylindrical pillar. St. Mary's was restored in 1853, at a cost of £250, and the interior was again restored in 1877. The number of monuments in this church, particularly of the Hoskins family, long lords of the manor, is unusually large. At the west end of the south aisle is a plain marble slab thus inscribed : — Hie jacet Edmundus Hoskins, fihus secundo-genitus CaroU Hoskins de Oxted in Comit. Surrise, armigeri ; natus est xii" Februar. an'o salutis mdcxxxiiii0, mortuus x° denatus xn<> Junii mdclxxvi0. Non sine ingentd animi moerore sensit se ab irato patre quasi exhaaredatum ; noluit igitur inter famihse cineres sepeliri sed hunc semotum requiescendi elegit locum. M. H. charissimo conjugi mcestissima conjux. F. C. VOL. III. 3 c 3?8 HISTORY OF SURREY. On a large blue gravestone in the chancel is an inscription to the memory of Ann, wife of Charles Hoskins, Esq., who died in 1651. Below :— " Let this patterne of piety, mapp of misery, mirrovr of patience here rest." A brass plate, with the figures of two youths, and the following quaint inscription in capitals, within the altar rails, is now partially covered : — Here lyeth enterred the body of Thomas Hoskins, Gent, second sonne of Sir Thomas Hoskins, Knight, who deceased ye 10th day of ApriU Ao D'ni 1611, at ye age of 5 yeares, who aboute a quarter of an houre before his departure did of himself, without any instruction, speak thos wordes, 'and leade us not into temptation, but dehver us from all eviU,' being the last wordes he spake. On a brass plate (now partly covered) in the middle of the chancel, under the repre sentation of a man standing, and holding his hands joined in prayer : — H k ja«t Johannes fnge, tuxonbum^&zxtox hnj's zcd'h xjni obiit xij" biz nuns' gxclii -anno S'ni mill'o ctxtxxbxii cxxjxxs %'i'z xfinxiztxa gTs, Qmzn. Another brass plate, mentioned by Manning and Bray* as bearing the portraiture of a lady standing in the same devout posture, has been removed, or it is covered. Over her, in an escutcheon, were the cross, nails, pillar, ladder, and other instruments of Christ's passion, and beneath were two children, with the inscription here subjoined : — Orate pro anima' Johanne Haseldenn, que obiit xxj° die mensis Octobris anno Domini mill'imo cccc0 octoagesimo cujus anime p'p'cietur Deus. Amen. On the north wall is a monument, in colours much faded, representing, under an arch, the figures of a man in a gown and his wife, both in black, and praying before a faldstool. Beneath these figures are ten sons and seven daughters in a similar posture, and over them, in capitals, this inscription : — John Aldersey, haberdasher and merchant venturer of London, being son of John Aldersey of Bunbery in ye County of Chester, gent. dep. ys lyfe ye 26 day of July a0 1616, being of the age of 75 years, and having hved wth his wife Anna in the holy iEstate of matrimony 46 years, and had issue 17 children. The Eegister of this parish commences in 1603 for burials, but for baptisms and marriages not until 1613, where there is a note (signed, "Daniel Bellamy, rector"), stating that the marriages had occupied four leaves, the christenings twenty-five leaves, and the burials eighteen leaves, in a pre-existing Eegister. From 1613 downwards the Eegister is perfect, excepting from 1683 to 1690, and from 1700 to 1704 inclusive. These portions, it is stated in the Eegister, were lost by a Mr. Shepherd (1681 — 1705). The Eegister contains entries of several marriages performed by justices of the peace during the Commonwealth. In an inventory of goods belonging to Oxted Church is recorded the * " Surrey," vol. U. p. 390. TANDRIDGE. 379 following gift of the Duchess of Devonshire, who appears to have resided in the parish about 1750, viz. two large silver flagons, a silver cup and cover, a large embossed silver dish, and a silver plate. The recorded benefactions to the poor of Oxted are in substance as follows : — 1627. Henry Smith, Esq., ,£15 annually, arising from the rent of a farm at Worth, in Sussex. 1786. Mrs. Jane Linwood, £100, part of which was laid out in the purchase of £100 stock, and producing £3 annually. 1794. Mrs. Jane Piggott, £150, invested in the 3£ per Cents., and producing £5 5s. annually. 1830. Lady Bensley, by wUl, £50, the whole of which was distributed in clothing by an order of the vestry. 1834. Mr. WUham Peters, the interest of £200 stock in the 3 per Cents., producing annually £6, to be distributed amongst poor resident widows not receiving parochial rehef. New and handsome schools have been recently erected in this parish. TANDRIDGE. This parish is bounded by that of Godstone on the west and north-west, by Crowhurst on the south, and by Oxted and Limpsfield on the north and east. In the middle of the parish the land is sandy, with clay on the north and south. Two manors here are thus described in the Doomsday Book : — " The Wife of Salie holdes of Eichard (de Tonbridge) the manor of Tanrige, which Torbern held of King Edward. It was then assessed at 10 hides: now, at 2 hides. There are 10 carucates of arable land. In demesne are 3 carucates ; and there are twenty villains, and ten bordars, with 11 carucates. There is a mill, at 50d. ; and 8 acres of meadow. The wood yields forty hogs for pannage, and eleven for herbage. In the time of King Edward it was valued at £6 ; afterwards, at 40s. ; and now, at £11. " The Wife of Salie also holds of Eichard, Tellingdone. Alnoth held it of King Edward ; and it was then assessed at 10 hides ; now, at 1| hides. The arable land amounts to 4 carucates. In the demesne are 2 carucates ; and five villains and eight bondmen, with 21 carucates. There is a Church. The wood yields forty hogs for pannage. In the time of King Edward it was valued at £7 ; afterwards, at £3 ; now, at £6, yet it yields £7." Odo, the son of William de Dammartin, appears to have held the manor of Tandridge at an early period ; and in the Testa de Nevill it is stated that Alicia de Dammartin (pro bably a daughter or grand- daughter of Odo) held one knight's fee in Tanrugge, of the honour of Gloucester, in the reign of Henry III. In 1315 the estate had passed, apparently by marriage with the heiress of Dammartin, to the family of Warblentone, in 3c2 s8o HISTORY OF SURREY. which it remained vested until the time of Edward IV. Sir George Putnam, in 1509, held his courts as lord of the manor, which was afterwards styled Tandridge Court, to distinguish it from another manor in the parish called Tandridge Priory. The manor of Tandridoe Court descended from Sir George to Eobert Putnam, who in 1543 suffered a recovery of this manor, with 300 acres of land, 50 of meadow, 200 of pasture, 60 of wood, and £4 rent. After intermediate transfers these and other estates were sold, under the authority of an Act of Parliament passed in 1766, to Sir Kenrick Clayton, whose son and heir, Sir Eobert, bequeathed Tandridge Court to his cousin, Sir William Clayton, who held it in 1808, but afterwards sold it to Matthias Wilks, Esq. That gentleman erected a handsome residence on the estate, but left the old court-house standing, and it is now in the occupation of some labourers. Mr. Wilks subsequently disposed of the property to Sir William Weller Bepys, Bart., whose grandson, the Earl of Cottenham, now resides in the new mansion. The Manor of Northall, or Tandridge Briort. — Odo de Dammartin, who held the manor of Tanrige, which had belonged to Eichard de Tonbridge, supposed to have been the founder of the hospital or priory of Tandridge, endowed that institution with part of his estate here, which subsequently constituted the priory manor. It fell into the hands ofthe King on the suppression of the monastery, and was given to John Eede in exchange for Oatlands.* John Eede, son and heir of the preceding, in 1576 conveyed to Eichard Bostock his manor of Tanrige (alias Northall) and Oxted, &c, which afterwards passed to the family of Fuller, and was bought ofthe daughters of Serjeant Fuller by Sir William Clayton, who had purchased the Tandridge Court estate also. The subsequent descent of these manors to Sir Eobert Clayton has been already noticed. He conveyed during his life the manor (or reputed manor) of Northall, with the priory farm, to Mr. Eobert Grseme, the son of his steward, as a reward for his services.-)- Tillingdon. — Though at the time of the Doomsday survey Tillingdon was a manor which included about one-half of the parish, it has long since been divested of its manorial attributes, and has dwindled to a single farm. It appears that in the reign of Edward I. Tillingdon belonged to Thomas de Warblentone, or Warbleton, who also held Tandridge Court ; and he sold the lands and tenements of Tillingdonne to Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester, whose ancestor, Eichard de Tonbridge, had been lord of the fee. This manor descended, with the estate of the Earl of Gloucester at Bletchingley, to the Earls of Stafford ; and through the attainder of Edward Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, in * See account of Oatlands, in Weybridge, vol. ii. p. 129 et seq. t See p. 346 of the present volume, under Godstone. TANDRIDGE. 381 the reign of Henry VIII., it escheated to the Crown. Temporary grants were made to Sir Thomas Cawarden and other persons at different times ; and at length, in the time of Charles I., this manor formed part of the estate of George Evelyn, Esq. Tillingdon afterwards came into the possession of Sir John Evelyn, of Godstone, who, by will dated in 1671, devised this estate, with others, to one Mary Gittings, by whom he had a daughter, not born in wedlock. This woman sold the property to Sir Eobert Clayton and John Morris, Esq. ; and Tillingdon fell to the share of the former, in whose descendant, Sir Wm. Eobert Clayton, the present baronet, who holds nearly the whole property of the parish, it still remains. The manor of Newlands (or Newland), partly in this parish, and partly in Crowhurst, Lingfield, &c, was formerly included among the estates of the family of Gaynsford ; and in 1554 it was vested in John Gaynsford, an idiot, with other lands and tenements, as mentioned in our account of Crowhurst.* In 1608 Thomas Thorp died seized of New- lands, in the parish of Tandridge, held of the manor of Okested, leaving Eichard, his son and heir, a minor. Tandridge Hall. — The mansion thus named, having been included in the grant from Henry VIII. to John Eede, was sold to one of the family of Haward, and in 1649 it came into the hands of Sir William Haward, whose representatives, in 1681, sold this, with other estates, to John Burrough, Esq. After other transfers it was purchased, together with the manor of Garston in Bletchingley, by the lady of Sir Kenrick Clayton, and in 1808 it belonged to Sir William Clayton, Bart. From that gentleman it was purchased by Joseph Wilks, Esq., who converted the old farmhouse into a residence for himself. More recently it underwent a thorough repair ; many of the rooms, however, are ancient, and appear to be nearly in their pristine state. One apartment is wainscoted throughout, over its carved mantelpiece is the date 1598, and on each side are the initials of the Haward family. It is probable that this mantelpiece, which is of a handsome character, formerly ornamented the dining-room, as that apartment is said to have been wainscoted previously to the time when Mr. Wilks effected his alterations. Mr. Wilks then heightened the dining-room, and is believed to have removed the panelling to a bedroom of suitable proportions. Fragments of carving, similar to that of- the mantelpiece, are found in other parts of the house. Eooksnest, a handsome mansion, situated in a well-wooded park of about 140 acres in extent, at the base of the chalk hill, anciently belonged to the priory of Tandridge. It was sold by John Eede, son of the grantee of the priory estates, to Eichard Bostock, and it * See ante, p. 338. 382 HISTORY OF SURREY. afterwards belonged to the family of Eoffey. Frequently disposed of by sale, it was at length purchased, in 1817, by C. H. Turner, Esq., whose son, Mr.,Francis M. H. Turner, is the present owner. This elegant residence adjoins that of Flower, in the adjoining parish of Godstone.* The Briory of Tandridge.— This religious institution, at first a hospital for three priests and several poor brethren, was afterwards regarded as a priory of Austin Canons. It is uncertain when it originated, but in the reign of Eichard I., Odo (or Eudes), son of William de Dammartin, became a considerable benefactor to the priory, and has been generally looked upon as the founder. In 1352 Walter de Merstham, parson of Limpsfield, had license to alienate lands and tenements in Tandridge to the convent. It is stated in a rescript of the Bishop of Winchester, in 1308, that the rents of the priory were hardly sufficient for the support of the officiating ministers. The following account of the manors, lands, tenements, and quit-rents belonging to the priory of Tandridge is given in the Valuation of Ecclesiastical Broperty by the King's Commissioners in 27 Henry VIII. : — Firm-rents in the parish of Tandridge, £47 3s. l^d. ; in Oxted, £11 12s. 3d. ; in Crow hurst, £8 ; in Godstone, £3 18s. 4d. ; in Bletchingley, £5 3s. ; in Warlingham, £4 13s. 4d. ; in Chipsted, 16s. ; in Hartfield, Sussex, £4 ls. 8d. ; in Chiddingstone, Kent, 7s. lOd. ; and in Long Sutton, Hants, 12s. ; in all, £86 7s. 6-|d. Beprisals or deductions, £7 10s. llfd., leaving a clear revenue of £78 16s. 6f d.f The priory was situated not far from the foot of the chalk hill, at a spot where paving tiles have been found, but the conventual buildings have long since been destroyed. What is now called the Briory is a mansion erected near the site of the ancient religious establish ment. It was purchased by the late C. H. Turner, Esq., above mentioned. Joseph Wilks, Esq., built a house in this neighbourhood, to which he gave the name of Southlands ; it now belongs to the Earl of Cottenham. Tandridge is now a vicarage, in the patronage of F. M. H. Turner, Esq. In 1576 John Bede (mentioned in a preceding page) conveyed to Eichard Bostock, Esq., with the site and lands of the priory, the site of the then late church and churchyard of Tandridge, with the rectory and vicarage, &c. In 1603 Mr. Bostock settled the rectory and vicarage "on his nephew, Bostock Fuller, and his son Edward, directing that with all the tithes belonging to this Eectory, except of certain parts there mentioned, there should be for ever maintained a godly learned Curate or Minister to serve the Cure of the Eectory, and say Divine service, and administer the sacraments in the parish church of Tandridge, according to the laws of the Church of England ; and to teach the children of the inhabitants of * See under Godstone, p. 346. t Valor Ecclesiasticus, vol. ii. p. 68. TANDRIDGE. 383 Tandridge and Blechingley gratis. Unluckily for the clergyman, a proviso was inserted that, after Mr. Bostock's. death, Mr. Bostock Fuller might revoke the uses of this deed, and declare them to himself in fee, a power which Mr. Fuller did not forget to avail himself of; and the Clergyman who serves the Cure receives to this day £16 only." * In 1711, Elizabeth, Anne, and Letitia Fuller, spinsters, conveyed to their nephew, Francis Fuller, their reversion in the rectory, and the tithes of certain lands in Tandridge, he covenanting with them to find a proper person to serve the cure of the rectory, and to save harmless therefrom the lands and tithes devised by Serjeant Fuller to his daughter Elizabeth.t Subsequently those ladies conveyed their interest to Sir William Clayton, from whose family it has passed to that of the Turners. The Eegisters commence in 1680. Curates and Vicars of Tandridge in and since 1800 : — 1. — John Waters, LL.B. Appointed in 1784. 2. — Henry Brown. Appointed in 1834. 3. — Andreio Ramsay Campbell. Appointed in 1842. 4. — Robert Hudson, Borradaile, M.A. Instituted in 1865. The church, dedicated to St. Beter, occupies an elevated site in the manor of Tilling don. It is small, built with stone, mostly covered with rough-cast. Near the west end is a tower, with a shingled spire and five bells. The church consists of nave, chancel, and north transept, built in 1836 ; a south aisle was added in 1844 by Mr. C. H. Turner; and a north aisle and organ chamber were built in 1874, under the superintendence of Sir Gilbert Scott. Interiorly the chancel is separated from the nave by a semicircular arch. The transept has a neat pointed window in three compartments, with five lights at the top. The east window is small ; there is also a small window at the west end, but no door. On the right of the entrance by the south porch is a piscina. Over the vestry fireplace is an oak carving from Tandridge Hall, in the same style as the mantelpiece noticed in that mansion. 'It is in three compartments, flowers, scrolls, &c, occupying the north and the centre, and the south what appears to be the head of a jester. Its age is probably that of the mantelpiece — 1598. Over the communion-table, and also over the vestry door, are shields of arms of the Bostock and Fuller families. The font is octagonal, plain, massive, and ancient. The church was restored in 1851, at a cost of £300. There are several gravestones in the floor, memorials of the Bostocks, Fullers, Wyatts, * Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 376. t Id. p. 377. 384 HISTORY OF SURREY. Saxbys, and others, but no brasses. A white marble tablet commemorates the Eev. John Waters, nearly fifty years minister of this parish, who died in 1833. At the east end is a range of four ancient table tombs for the Saxby and Wyatt families. One of them is for Margaret Wyatt Saxby, of Oxted, spinster, who died in 1738 ; another for the second and third wives of William Wyatt, of whom Ann died in 1747, and Elizabeth in 1775 ; and a third for Margaret, wife of William Saxby, Esq., of Benshurst, and for himself, who died in 1775. The following are the only recorded charitable donations to this parish : — Henry Smith, Esq., by wiU, an annual rent-charge of £4 10s., to be distributed in linen and wooUen for clothes. Mr. David Maynard, by wiU, 1789, £3 annuaUy from land, to send poor chUdren to school. Schools were erected in this parish in 1870, at a cost of £1,070. INDEX TO VOL. III. Adams, Rev. Richard Leonard, 224 Addington, boundaries and soil, 249 ; antiquities discovered, ib. ; early history, ib. ; descent of the manor, 250 ; a dainty dish to set before a king, ib. ; Addington Park, 252 ; the rectory, vicarage, and church, 253 ; vicars, 255 ; Shirley, ib. ; St. John's Church, ib. ; the Ballards estate, ib. ; acreage, ib. ; Roman en campment, ib. Addiscombe, 237 Alfarthing, manor of, 213 AUen, Rev. Joseph, D.D., 176 Andrews, Dr. Lancelot, Rector of Cheam, 302 Angell famUy, the, 338 AngeU, John, bequest of, 107 Antrobus, the family of, 302 Ashmole, Elias, burial-place of, 74 Astley's Amphitheatre, 81 Atkins, Sir Richard, 35 Atkins-Bowyer, Rev. F. W., 34 Atkins-Bowyer, Rev. W. H. W., 34 Balham, the manor of, 163 Bancroft, Archbishop, his bequest of books to Lambeth Palace Library, 50 ; memorial of, 72 Bandon, manor of, 279 Bannerman, John Alexander, Esq., 332 Barber, John, a distinguished patriot, 192 Bardoh, the famUy of, 251 Baring, Rev. Charles, 360 Barkley, Alexander, author of "The Ship of Fools," 241 Barnard, Sir John, philanthropist, 192 Barnes, boundaries, 165 ; extent and nature of the soil, ib. ; descent of the manor, ib. ; Bam Elms, 166 ; Jacob Toiison's residence, ib.; a battle- royal, 167 ; the Kit-Cat Club, ib. ; advowson, ib.. ; the parish Regis- VOL. III. ter, 168 ; rectors since 1800, ib. ; ex tracts from the parish Register, ib. ; eminent rectors, ib. ; Holy Trinity district, 170 ; the village, ib. ; Ham mersmith Suspension Bridge, ib. ; culture of cedars of Lebanon, ib. Barnwell, George, traditional connection of, with CamberweU, 25 Battersea, situation and boundaries, 171; etymology, ib.; the manor as described in Doomsday Book, ib. ; grants of privileges, 172 ; descent of the manor, ib. ; Bohngbroke House, 173 ; York House, 174 ; Price's Candle Factory, 175 ; the Red House, ib. ; Battersea Park, ib. ; Southwark and Vauxhall Water Company, ib.; Shaftesbury Park Estate, ib. ; rectory and vicarage, ib. ; the parish Register, 176 ; vicars since 1800, ib. ; St. Mary's Church, ib. ; monuments, &c, 177 ; St. George's Church, 178; Christ Church, ib. ; St. John's, ib. ; St. Saviour's, ib. ; St. Peter's, ib. ; St. PhUip's, ib. ; Anabaptist chapel, ib. ; Surrey Mission Society, 179 ; foun dation of the Bible Society, ib. ; Na tional Society's Training College, ib.; Penge, 180 ; Battersea Bridge, ib. ; Albert Suspension Bridge, ib. ; Bat tersea Rise, ib. ; Royal Freemasons' Girls' School, 181 ; Clapham Junc tion, ib. Battersea, manor of, 212 Bayle, Robert, Prior of Merton, 184 Beck, Rev. Edward Josselyn, 153 Beddington, boundaries, &c, 274 ; dis covery of Roman antiquities, ib. ; manor of Home-Beddington, ib. ; manor of Beddington- Huscarle, 275 ; the family of the Carews, 276 ; manor of Wallington, 278 ; manor of Bandon, 279 ; the rectory, 280; extract from the parish Register, ib. ; rectors since 1800, 3 D 281; the parish church, ii.; charitable bequests, ib. ; monuments and me morials in the church, 282 ; Bedding ton Park, 286 ; the mansion, 288 ; St. Mary's Hospital, 289 ; the hamlet of WaUington, ib. ; Holy Trinity Church, 290 ; schools and railway stations, ib. ; Beddington and Wal lington Field Gardens, ib. Benbow, Admiral, birthplace of, 155 Benham, Rev. Wilham, 255 Bennett, Rev. WiUiam, 303 Bernard, Edward, Rector of Cheam, 303 Bigg, Rev. Lionel Oliver, 340 Biggin, manor of, 311 Billeshurst, manor of, 367 Birstead, manor of, 375 Bishop Bonner's House, Lambeth, 130 Bissett, Rev. John Collinson,. 255 BlackwaU, Rev. Anthony, 34 Bletchingley, situation, boundaries, &c, 324 ; descent of the manor, 325 manor of Garston, 327 ; PendeU, 329 North Park, 330 ; Kentwaynes, ib. Ham, ib. ; Stangrave, ib. ; Ivy House, ib.; Daferons, or Saferons, ib. ; mar kets and fairs, 331 ; Parliamentary re presentation, ib. ; the advowson, 332 ; rectors since 1800, 333 ; the parish church, ib. ; benefactions to the parish, 335 ; schools and almshouses, ib. ; the Union House, ib. Bhck, Rev. Edward, 153 Blokesfield, manor of, 366 Blunt, Rev. Henry, 161 BoUand, John, Esq., 332 Bond, Rev. Charles Frederick, 187 Bond, Rev. Essex Henry. 187 Borradaile, Rev. Robert Hudson, 383 Borradaile, Rev. Wilham, D.D., 215 Bourke, Hon. and Rev. Geo. Wingfield, 262 Bowie, John, Prior of Merton, 184 Bowyer family, burial-place of, 11 386 INDEX. Brady, Dr. Nicholas, 34 Bridges, Rev. Alexander Henry, 281 Briggs, Rev. Wilham Tomkyns, 199 Brixton, hundred of, 1 Brixton, Christ Church, 104; Trinity Asylum, 112 ; St. Matthew's Church, ib. ; St. Jude's, 114 ; St. Saviour's, ib.; other churches, ib. ; City of Lon don Freemen's Orphan School, ib. ; Convict Prison, ib. ; St. Ann's So ciety Schools and Asylum, ib. Broadhams, manor of, 375 Broadley, Rev. Robert, 211 Brodrick, Sir Thomas, monument of, 216 Bromfield, Rev. George H. W., 112 Brown, Rev. Henry, 383 Browns, manor of, 367 Buchanan, Rev. GUbert, LL.D., 272 Buckmaster, Rev. John, 215 Bullock, Rev. Richard, D.D., 161 Bunchesham, or Bensham, manor of, 235 Burdett, Sir Francis, and John Paull, duel fought by, 228 Burton, Rev. Hezekiah, D.D., 168 Butcher, Rev. Robert Holt, LL.B., 215 Bysshe Court, manor of, 353 Csesar, Sir Juhus, 312 CamberweU, parish of, 1 ; increase of houses and population, 6 ; advowson, &c.,7 ; extracts from the parish Regis ter, ib. ; rectors in and since 1800, 9 ; St. Giles's Church, ib. ; its destruction by fire, ib. ; monuments, ib. ; burial- place of the Muschamp family, ib. ; of the Scott family, 10 ; of the Bow yer family, 11 ; the church rebuilt, 12 ; description of the edifice, ib.; the churchyard, 14; Free Grammar School, ib. ; St. George's Church, 16 ; St. George's National Schools, ib. ; Infant School and Mission Rooms, 17; St. Philip's Church, ih. ; St. Luke's Church, ib.; Christ Church, ib.; Roman Cathohc Church, ib.; Licensed Victuallers' Asylum, ib. ; Christ Church Schools, 18 ; St. Mary Mag dalene Church, ib.; Beeston's Alms houses, 19 ; Nunhead Cemetery, ib. ; Camberwell Cemetery, ib. ; Presby terian Church, ib.; Hanover Chapel, 20 ; Society of Friends' Meeting house, ib.; Peckham Chapel, ib.; Camden Chapel, ib.; Peckham House, ib. ; CamberweU House, 21 ; Alms houses of the Girdlers' Company, ib. ; Peckham Railway Station, ib. ; Emmanuel Church, ib. ; Bowyer House, ib. ; Mansion-House Chapel, 22 ; British Free School, ib. ; Green- acre, the murderer, ib. ; St. Paul's j Church, ib. ; Heme Hill, 23 ; Casino House, ib.; Matthews, the Dul wich hermit, ib. ; Denmark HU1, 24 ; the Fox-under-the-Hill, ib. ; Champion Lodge, ib.; Camberwell Grove, ib. ; Grove Hill, ib. ; Dr. J. C. Lettsom, ib. ; Camberwell Collegiate School, 25 ; George Barnwell, ib. ; Grove Chapel, 26 ; Aged Pilgrims' Asylum, ib. ; Bethel Asylum, ib. ; Vestry Hall, ib. ; CamberweU Green, ib. ; National and Green-coat Schools, 27 ; residence of Sir WUUam Bowyer, ib. ; Albany Chapel, ib. ; Friendly Female Asylum, ib. ; Marlborough Chapel, ib. ; Literary and Scientific Institution, ib. ; Ladland's (or Prim rose) Hill, ib. CampbeU, Rev. Andrew Ramsay, 383 Cardigan, Earl of, and Captain Tuckett, duel fought by, 228 Carew, the family of, 276 Carlisle House, Lambeth, 80 Carshalton, boundaries and acreage, 291 ; early history, ib. ; the manor, ib. ; Carshalton Park, 293 ; Stone Court, ib. ; Kymersley, 294 ; Crosse- lands, ib. ; markets and fairs, ib. ; Anne Boleyn's Well, ib. ; Carshalton House, ib. ; the Culvers, 295; the advowson, ib. ; rectors since 1800, ib. ; the parish church, ib. ; the Registers, 298 ; Dissenting places of worship, ib. ; Royal Hospital for In curables, ib. ; discovery of ancient weapons, ib. Carver, Rev. A. J., D.D., head master of Dulwich CoUege, 3 Castlereagh, Lord, and George Can ning, duel fought by, 197 Cator, Rev. Charles, 295 Cator, Rev. Wm. Albemarle B., 295 Cavendish, Hon. Henry, the discoverer of hydrogen gas, 32 Chaldon, situation and boundaries, 255 ; stone quarries, 256 ; descent of the manor, ib.; manor of Tolsworth, 1 ib. ; manor of Willey, ib. ; Stansted, j 257 ; rectors of Chaldon since 1800 ib.; the parish church, ib. ; acreage and nature of soU, 258 Champion HU1, 24 Chandos, Lord, and Col. Henry Comp ton, duel fought by, 197 Charing Cross Bridge, 126 Charlesworth, Rev. Samuel, 360 Chawner, Rev. Charles Fox, 333 Cheam, boundaries and nature of the soil, 299 ; early history, ib.; descent of the manor of East Cheam, 300 ; West Cheam, 301 ; Lower Cheam, ib.; North Cheam Park, 302 ; the bene fice, ib. ; rectors since 1800, 303 ; St. Dunstan's Church, ib.; the Lumley famUy, 304 ; St. PhUip's Church, 307 ; schools, ib. ; Parochial Rooms, 308 ; Whitehall House, ib. CheUows, manor of, 338 Chichele, Archbishop, his improvements of Lambeth Palace, 45 Clapham, 27 ; early history of, 28 ; descent of the manor, ib.; Dr. John Gauden, 30 ; death of Samuel Pepys, 31 ; boundaries of the parish, ib. ; acreage, ib.; Clapham Common, 32; Cavendish House, ib.; residence of Zachary Macaulay, 33 ; residence of Lord Teignmouth, ib. ; Clapham Park, ib. ; advowson, ib. ; rectors, 34 ; the old parish church, ib. ; St. Paul's Church, 36 ; the new parish church, 37; St. John's Church, 38; St.Saviour's Church, ib. ; St. James's Chapel, ib. ; AU Saints' Church, 39 ; St. Stephen's, ib.; schools, ib.; British Orphan Asy lum, ib. ; Dissenting chapels, ib. ; Roman Cathohc Church, 40 ; local occurrences, ib. Clapham Junction Station, 220 Clarke, Rev. John Erskine, 176 Claylands, Kennington, 103 Clewer, Rev. Wilham, D.D., 242 Cobham, Lord, 364 Cockerell, Charles, Esq., 332 Colborne, Nicholas Wm. Ridley, Esq., 331 Collinson, Rev. Septimus, D.D., 190 Commercial Docks, 150 Congreve, Rev John, 211 Copleston, Rev. Reginald Edward, 168 Copley, Sir Lionel, 331 Cornwallis, Archbishop, memorial of, 72 Coulsdon, situation and boundaries, 259 ; nature of the soU, ib. ; ancient remains, ib. ; manor of Whattington, or Waddon, ib. ; Coulsdon Court, 261 ; Hooley House, 261 ; Wood Place, ib. ; Portnall's Farm, ib. ; Kenley House, *.; Garston Hall, ib. ; the rectory of Coulsdon, ib. ; rectors since 1800, 262; the parish church, ib. ; parsonage and schools, 263 ; Reedham Asylum for Fatherless Chil dren, ib. ; Whattington Chapel, ib. Courtney, Rev. John, 266 Covelingley, manor of, 347 Crane, Sir Francis, tapestry manufactory estabhshed by, 194 Cranmer, Rev. Richard, LL.B., 314 Crawford, Rev. Charles John, D.D., 272 Croham, manor of, 235 CromweU, Thomas, Earl of Essex, 205 Crowhurst, boundaries, &c, 335 ; acreage and nature of soil, 336 ; descent of the manor, ib. ; manor of Newlands, 337 ; manor of CheUows, 338 ; Crowhurst Place, 339 ; the Moat House, 340 ; the advowson, ib. ; vicars since 1800, ib. ; the parish church, ib. ; memorials of the Gayns ford famUy, 341 ; vicarage, 342 ; an ancient yew-tree, ib. ; benefactions to the parish, 343 Croydon, boundaries, 229 ; extent and nature of soU, 230 ; antiquity of, ib. ; etymology, ib. ; historical events, 231 ; manor of Croydon, 232 ; Archi episcopal Palace, ib. ; Croydon Park, or Park HiU, 234 ; manor of Wad don, ib. ; manor of Bunchesham, or Bensham, 235 ; manor of Cro ham, ib. ; manor of Haling, ib. ; manor of Norbury, 236; Addiscombe, 237 ; Coombe House, 238 ; Shirley House, ib. ; the rectory, ib. ; ancient chantries, 239 ; the parish church, ib. ; its destruction by fire, 240 ; its restoration, ib. ; monuments, ib. ; Alexander Barkley, author of the " Ship of Fools," 241 ; vicars of Croydon, 242 ; the vicarage, 243 ; St. James's Church, ib. ; Holy Trinity, ib.; St. Saviour's, ib.; St. Luke's,*.; St. Mary Magdalene, ib.; AU Saints', ib.; St. Peter's, ib.; St. Andrew's, ib.; Christ Church, ib.; St. John the Evangelist, ib. ; St. Paul's, ib. ; St. INDEX. Matthew's, ib. ; Dissenters' meeting houses, ib.; St. Mary's Roman Cathohc Church, 244; Meeting house of the Society of Friends, ib. ; Whitgift's Hospital, ib. ; Archbishop Tenison's School, 246 ; Elhs Davy's Almshouse, ib. ; the Little Alms houses, 247 ; Royal Masonic Bene volent Institution, ib. ; Croydon General Hospital, ib. ; benefactions to the parish, ib. ; markets and fairs, ib. ; population, ib. ; Town-haU, ib old market-house, 248 ; Union Work house, ib.; barracks, ib.; canal, ib raUway communication, ib. ; Literary and Scientific Institution, 249 theatre, ib. ; baths, &c, ib. Cuper's Garden, Lambeth, 78 Curtis, Sir Wilham, 332 Dalton, Rev. Charles Brown, 66 De Alkmundbury, Geoffrey, Prior of Merton, 184 De Ashe, GUbert, Prior of Merton, 184 De Basyng, H., Prior of Merton, 184 De Bourne, Giles, Prior of Merton, 184 De Brokesbourne, Wilham, Prior of Merton, 184 De Chaddesley, Geoffrey, Prior of Merton, 184 De Coetlogon, Rev. Charles Edward, 349 De GUling, Ralph, Prior of Merton, 184 De GlanvUle, Gilbert, Bishop of Ro chester, 66 De Guiffardiere, Rev. Charles, 134 De Herierd, Edmund, Prior of Merton, 184 De Hexham, Robert, Prior of Merton, 184 De Kenton, Thomas, Prior of Merton, 184 De Lutlyngton, John, Prior of Merton,184 De Wyndesore, Robert, Prior of Merton, 184 Dealtry, Rev. WUham, D.D., 34 Dee, Dr. John, philosopher and astro loger, 194 Delafosse, Rev. Daniel Charles, 215 Denmark HU1, 24 Devonshire, Christiana, Countess of, 198 D'Eyncourt, Rt. Hon. Charles Tenny son, 132 Dollond, Peter, an eminent optician, burial-place of, 74 Donne, Dr., 312 3 d 2 3«7 Dorman's Land, 367 Doulton, Frederick, Esq., 132 Downe, manor of, 212 D'Oyly, Rev. George, D.D., 66 Ducarel, Dr., Ill Dulwich, the Grammar School of God's GUt College, 1 ; reconstitution of the foundation ofthe College, ib.; revenue of the College, ib.; the educational foundation, 2 ; the CoUege buildings described, ib.; new scheme for the future administration of the endow ment, 3 ; the Rev. A. J. Carver, D.D., head master, ib. ; St. Stephen's Church, 4; St. John's Church, ib.; chapels and schools, ib. ; Hatcham manor, ib.; St. James's Church, 6 Dunsfold, manor of, 213 East Sheen, manor of, 193 Edelman, Rev. WiUiam, 187 Eden, Hon. and Rev. Robert John, 176 Eden, Rev. Robert, 112 Edwardes, Hon. Edward Henry, 332 EUerton, Rev. John, 169 Elhston, the comedian, burial-place of, 123 Erck, Rev. John CaiUard, 187 Eustachius, Prior of Merton, 184 Ewart, WUham, Esq., 332 Farrer, Rev. Matthew Thomas, 255 Featley, Daniel, Rector of Lambeth, 67 Felcourt, manor of, 363 Female Orphan Asylum, 87, 287 Ferrers, Rev. John Bromfield, 281 Fisher, Rev. Edmund Henry, 103 Fisher, Rev. Harry Charrington, 257 Fixsen, Rev. John Frederick, 187 Flack, Rev. George Sutton, 211 Flore, 346 Ford, manor of, 366 Foyle, manor of, 375 Freeston, WUliam, Prior of Merton, 184 Fry, Rev. James, 369 Fuller, Rev. Robert Fitzherbert, 340, 369 Furneaux, Dr. Philip, 40 Gardener, Rev. Charles, D.D., 321 Gardnor, Rev. John, 176 Garrett, the hamlet of, 218 Garston, the manor of, 327 Gataker, Rev. Charles, 153 > Gataker, Rev. Thomas, B.D., 153 Gauden, Dr. John, 30 3«8 INDEX. Gibbon, Edward, the historian, 206 Gibson, Dr. Edmund, Rector of Lam beth, 68 GUdable, 367 Giles, Rev. John AUen, 321 Gilpin, Rev. Wilham, 308 Gisburne, John, Prior of Merton, 184 Godstone, boundaries and nature of the soU, 343 ; the vUlage, ib. ; bar rows, or tumuli, 344 ; remains of an ancient fortification, ib. ; mineral spring, ib. ; descent of the manor, 345 ; Flore, or Flower, 346 ; manor of Norbrith, 347 ; manors of Hedge Court and Covelingley, ib.; Felbridge House, ib. ; St. John's Church, 348 ; Marden Park, ib. ; Leigh (or Lee) Place, ib.; TUburstow Lodge, ib. ; advow son, ib. ; vicars since 1800, 349 ; St. Nicholas Church, ib. ; monuments of the Evelyn famUy, ib. ; the vicarage- house, 351 ; benefactions to the parish, ib. ; schools, 352 ; Blindley Heath Church, ib. Gomm, Sir WUliam, 156 Goodricke, Rev. Henry, B.D., 262 Greaves, Rev. Richard WUson, 211 Gregory, Nicholas, Prior of Merton, 184 Gregory, Rev. Robert, 112 Gresham, Sir John, 375 Grinday, Rev. John, LL.D., 355 Grove Hill, CamberweU, 24 Hacket, Dr. John, Rector of Cheam, 303 Haling, manor of, 235 HamUton, Rev. Charles Hans, 355 HamUton, Rev. James, 281 Hammersmith Suspension Bridge, 170 Hardyknute, death of, 41 Hare, Rev. Francis, D.D., 168 Harrison, Rev. Lawrence John, 191 Harwardesley, 354 Hatch, Rev. Giles, 321 Hatch, Rev. Henry, 321 Hatcham, manor of, 4 Hawes, Benjamin, Esq., 132 Haygarth, Rev. Henry WUliam, 224 Heath, Lord Chief Justice, 358 Heathcote, Thomas, Esq., 332 Hedge Court, manor of, 347 Henley, Hon. and Rev. Robert, 199 Henry, Bishop of Joppa, 66 Heme HU1, 22 Herring, Thomas, D.D., 332 Hewett, Rev. John Short, 153 HU1, Rev. Herbert, 161 Hoadly, Dr. Benjamin, 161 Hoare, Rev. George Tooker, 349 Hoare, Ven. Charles James, 349 Hobhouse, Benjamin, Esq., 331 Hodgson, Rev. John George, 242 Hookwood, 358 Hooper, Dr. George, Rector of Lambeth, 68 Horne, situation, boundaries, &c, 352 ; nature of the soil, ib. ; descent of the manor, 353 ; manor of Bysshe Court, ib. ; Horne Park, 354 ; Harwardesley, ib. ; rectors of Horne since 1800, 355 ; the parish church, ib. ; monuments to the Hope family, 356 ; schools, 357 Horne, Sir WUham, 332 Hughes, Rev. Thomas, 199 Hughes, Thomas, Esq., 132 Hume, Rev. John, D.D., 169 Hungerford and Lambeth Suspension Bridge, 126 Hutton, Archbishop, memorial of, 72 Hutton, Rev. Thomas Palmer, 369 Ireland, Rev. John, D.D., 242 James, Rev. Edward, 190 Jeffreys, Rev. John, 168 Jenkinson, Rev. James S., 176 Jones, Rev. Edward Rhys, 360 Kennington, manor of, 97 ; mummeries and state pageants, 98 ; the manor settled on Henry, Prince of Wales, by James I., 99 ; the old manor-house, ib. ; Kennington Palace, 100 ; Vaux- haU Chapel, ib. ; St. Peter's Church, ib. ; Carlisle Congregational Chapel, ib. ; South London Water Works, ih. ; Licensed Victuallers' School, ib. ; Vestry Hall, 101 ; Verulam Chapel, ib. ; St. Phihp's Church, ib. ; Ken nington Park, ib. ; the Horns Tavern, 102 ; St. Mark's Church, ib. ; St. Mark's Schools, 103 ; the Church of St. John the Divine, ib. ; St. James's Church, ib.; the Church of St. Agnes, ib. ; Claylands, ib.; Copped or Copt Hall, 104 ; Parochial Schools, ib. ; Christ Church, Brixton, ib.; the Hol land estate, 105 Kenrick, Rev. Jarvis, 333 Kenrick, Rev. Matthew, LL.D., 333 Kenrick, WUham, Esq., 332 Kent, William, Prior of Merton, 184 Kentwaynes, 330 Kingston, John, Prior of Merton, 184 Knight's Hill, Streatham, 160 KnoUys, Rev. Erskine WiUiam, 255 Kympton, Michael, Prior of Merton, 184 Lacy, John, Prior of Merton, 184 Lamb, Right Hon. WUliam, 332 Lambeth, 41 ; its etymology, ib. ; boundaries and subdivisions, ib. ; nature of the soil, ib. ; early history, ib. ; notice of, in Doomsday Book, 42 ; manor of, ib. ; grant of a market and fair, 43 ; the manor held by the Archbishops of Canterbury, 44 ; the Archiepiscopal Palace, ib.; earhest Register, 45 ; Wat Tyler's insurrec tion, ib. ; Archbishop Chichele's im provements of the palace, ib. ; Car dinal Morton's repairs and renova tions, ih. ; Archbishop Laud repairs the windows, ib. ; other repairs and embeUishments, 46 ; Col. Thomas Scot's depredation in the palace, ib. ; the gatehouse, 47 ; the library, 48 ; rare and curious books, 51 ; cata logues, 52 ; manuscripts, 53 ; libra rians, 56 ; the Lollards' Tower, 57 ; the post-room, ib. ; the chapel, 58 ; desecration of Archbishop Parker's tomb, 59 ; the crypt, 60 ; the quad rangle, ib. ; the private library and sitting-room, ib. ; the great dining- room, ib. ; hst of portraits, 62 ; the picture gallery, ib. ; important events enacted at Lambeth Palace, 64 ; the Pan-Anglican Synod, 65 ; Arch bishops who have died at Lambeth Palace, ib. ; rectory and advowson of Lambeth, 66 ; rectors since 1800, ib. ; the parish church, 69 ; Pedlar's Acre, 70 ; tombs and monuments, 71 ; the Howard Chapel, 73 ; the Leigh Chapel, 74 ; burial-place of Ehas Ashmole, ih. ; burial-place of Peter Dollond, ib. ; tomb of the Trades- cants, ib. ; Tradescant's museum, 75 ; altars in the old parish church, 76 ; the Guild of St. Christopher, ib. ; the " boy-bishop," ib. ; extracts from the parish Register, ib.; residence of Arthur Moore, original author of " Moore's Almanack," 77 ; Norfolk House, 77 ; Cuper's Garden, 78 ; Carlisle House, 80 ; Astley's Amphi theatre, 81 ; Westminster Bridge, 84 ; St. Thomas's Hospital, 85 ; Asylum for Female Orphans, 87 ; Christ Church, Westminster Bridge Road, ib. ; Hawkstone Hall, 88 ; St. Thomas's Church, ib.; the Canter bury HaU, ib. ; the Bower Saloon, ib. ; manor of Faukes-hall, or Vaux- haU, ib. ; Vauxhall Gardens, 89 ; Lambeth School of Art, 96 ; Vaux- haU Bridge, ib. ; manor of Kenning ton, 97; manor of StockweU, or South Lambeth, 105 ; the AngeU estate, 107 ; Stockwell Green, 108 ; the Stockwell ghost, ib. ; eminent residents in South Lambeth, 110 ; St. Stephen's Church, 111 ; AU Saints' Church, ib. ; St. Ann's Church, 112 ; St. Mary the Less, ib. ; Lam beth Workhouse, ib.; Trinity Asylum, ib. ; St. Matthew's Church, Brixton, ib. ; St. Jude's, 114 ; St. Saviour's, ib.; St. Paul's, ib.; St. Catherine's, ib. ; St. John's, ib.; Holy Trinity, ib. ; City of London Freemen's Or phan School, ib.; Convict Prison, ib.; St. Ann's Society Schools and Asylum, ib.; St. Paul's Church, 115 ; Brock- well HaU, ib. ; St. Luke's District, Norwood, ib. ; Lambeth Water Works, 118 ; Industrial Institution for the Infant Poor of Lambeth, 121 ; St. John's District, Waterloo Road, ib.; boundaries of the district, ib.; former condition of the locality, ib. ; St. John's Church, 122 ; burial-place of Elhston, the comedian, 123 ; Na tional Schools, ib.; the Old Half penny Hatch, ib. ; Zion Chapel, ib. ; New Jerusalem Temple, ib. ; South western Railway,*. /Royal Universal Infirmary for Children and Women, *.; Waterloo Bridge, 124; Hungerford and Lambeth Suspension Bridge, 126 ; its removal to Clifton, Bristol, ib.; Charing Cross Railway Bridge, ib.; Lambeth Water Works, 127 ; Narrow Wall, ib. ; Belvidere House and Gar dens, ib. ; manufactory of artificial stone, or terra-cotta, 128 ; Stamford Street Unitarian Chapel, ib. ; Schools of the Benevolent Society of St. Pa trick, ib.; General Lying-in Hospital, INDEX. ib.; York Road Congregational Chapel, 129 ; AU Saints' Church, ib.; National and Infant Schools, 130 ; Bishop Bonner's house, ib. ; Royal Cobourg, now the Victoria, Theatre, ib.; apprehension of Colonel Despard and others for high treason, 131 ; the Temple of Flora, ib. ; Apollo Gardens, ib. ; Lambeth Wells, ib. ; Parlia mentary representation of Lambeth, 132 Lancaster, Rev. Thomas, 187 Lane, Rev. Charlton, 103, 112 Laud, Archbishop, repairs the windows of Lambeth Palace, 45 Lawrence, Sir James Clarke, 132 Leake, Admiral Sir John, 154 Lee Boo, Prince, tomb of, 154 Legrew, Rev. James, 257 Leigham's Court, manor of, 159 Leng, Rev. John, D.D., 281 Lettsom, Dr. John Coakley, 24 Leveson-Gower, Rt. Hon. Lord Francis, 332 Limpsfield, situation, boundaries, and soU, 357 ; descent of the manor, ib. ; Hookwood, 358 ; Tenchleys, ib.; Stockenden, or Storkenden, 359 ; Trevereux, ib. ; the Bower, ib. ; Detillens, ib.; New HaU, ib. ; the benefice, ib. ; rectors since 1800, ib. ; the parish church, 360 ; the Registers, 361 ; schools, ib. Lindsay, Rev. Henry, 224, 242 Lingfield, situation, 361 ; boundaries and soil, 362 ; commons, ib. ; St. Peter's Cross, ib. ; Chapel Field, ib. ; fairs, ib. ; discontinuance of old cus toms, ib. ; descent of the manor, 363; manor of Felcourt, ib. ; manor of Starborough, ib. ; manor of Padinden, 365 ; manor of Blokesfield, or Shovel- strode, 366 ; manor of Ford, or La Ford, ib. ; New Place, ib. ; manor of Browns, 367 ; manor of Sheffield, ib. ; manor of Billeshurst, ib. ; Gild able, ib. ; Apsleytown, ib. ; Dorman's Land, ib. ; seats in the parish, ib. ; Lingfield College, 368 ; the benefice of Lingfield, 369 ; curates and vicars since 1800, ib. ; the parish church, ib. ; the vicarage, 373 ; the Registers, ib. ; donations to the parish, ib. ; schools, 374 Lingham, Rev. John Fentiman, 66 3«9 Lister, Dr., 36 Lloyd, Rev. Henry Robert, 103 Lockwood, Rev. John Cutts, 242, 262 Londonderry, Marquis of, and Henry Grattan, duel fought by, 228 Long, Rev. C. Maitland, 272 Lowman, Rev. Moses, 40 Lumley family, the, 304 M< Arthur, WUham, Esq., 132 Macaulay, Zachary, residence of, 33 M'Kinstrey, Rev. WUUam, 340, 369 Maclagan, Rev. WiUiam Dalrymple, 134 Manley, Rev. John T, 191 Mapleton, Rev. James Henry, LL.B., 314 Marsden, Rev. John Buxton, 211 Marsh, Rev. Wilham, D.D., 281 Master, Rev. Legh Hoskins, 359 Matthews, the Dulwich hermit, 23 Maule, Rev. Thomas Carteret, 303 Mayne, Rev. Robert, 359 Meakin, Rev. James, 199 Medd, Rev. Peter Goldsmith, 169 Melvill, Rev. Henry, B.D., 169 Merton, derivation of name, 181 ; early history, ib. ; description of manor in Doomsday Book, 182 ; descent of the manor, ib. ; the priory, 183 ; chro nicles of Merton Abbey, 184 ; char ters, ib. ; Priors of Merton, ib. ; ar morial bearings of the priory, 185 ; possessions of the priory, ib. ; Messrs. Littler's wooUen printing works, 186 ; rectory and advowson, ib. ; incum bents since 1799, 187 ; St. Mary's Church, ib. ; National Schools, 188 ; Merton Place, or Grove, *. ; Lord Nelson and Lady HamUton, ib. Mills, Robert WUliam, Esq., 332 Milnes, James, Esq., 331 Mitcham, boundaries and nature of the soU, 309 ; description of manor in Doomsday Book, *. ; manor of Michel ham and Witford, 310 ; manor of Biggin and Tamworth, 311 ; manor of Bavensbury, ib. ; Figge's Marsh, 312 ; residents of distinction, ib. ; Mitcham Grove, 313 ; an ancient house, ib. ; the benefice, ib. ; the Registers, ib. ; vicars since 1800, 314; the parish church, ib. ; Christ Church, 315 ; benefactions to the parish, 316 ; workhouse and schools, ih. ; almshouses, ib. 39° INDEX. " Moore's Almanack," residence of the original author of, 77 Mordon, or Morden, boundaries and nature of the soil, 316 ; descent ofthe manor, 317 ; the Spital, ib. ; Mordon Park, 318 ; advowson, ih. ; rectors since 1800,*.; the parish church,*.; benefactions to the parish, 319 ; the Free School, ib. ; Sunday school, 320 ; the poor-house, ib. Mortlake, boundaries and soU, 188 ; early history of the manor, 189; de scent of the manor, 190 ; the hving, *. ; parish Registers, ib. ; perpetual curates, *. ; the parish church, 191 ; Henry Addington, Viscount Sid mouth, *. ; SU John Barnard, phi lanthropist, 192 ; John Barber, a dis tinguished patriot, ih. ; Christ Church, 193 ; National and Board Schools, ib.; charities, *. ; Cromwell House, *. ; manor of East Sheen and West Hall, *. ; right of way through Richmond Park, *. ; White Lodge, residence of the Prince of Teck, 194 ; establish ment of a tapestry manufactory, *. ; Sir Francis Crane, *. ; Dr. John Dee, *. ; John Partridge, astrologer, 195 Morton, Cardinal, his repairs and reno vations of Lambeth Palace, 45 Mountain, Dr. George, B.ector of Cheam, 303 Muschamp family, burial-place of, 9 Myddleton, Rev. Robert, D.D., 153 Myers, Rev. Streynsham Derbyshire, 314 Nelson, Lord, residence of, at Merton, 188 Newington, or Newington Butts, 132 ; boundaries of the parish, *. ; its ety mology, 133 ; the manor of Walworth, *. ; the advowson, 134 ; rectors of Newington since 1800, ib. ; the old Church of St. Mary's, *. ; its demoli tion, *. ; the new church, 135 ; St. Gabriel's, *. ; monuments in the old church, *. ; the churchyard, 136 ; extracts from the parish Register, *. ; the old parsonage- house, *. ; the new rectory, ib. ; United National Charity and Sunday Schools, *. ; Board Schools, 137 ; remains of Cnut's trench, *. ; Drapers' Almshouses, *. ; Fishmongers' Almshouses, ib. ; the Metropohtan Tabernacle, *. ; Horsemonger Lane Gaol and Surrey Sessions House, *. ; singular dona tion for debtors, 138 ; the White Lion Prison, *. ; Trinity Church, *. ; AU Saints' Church, 139 ; St. Andrew's, *. ; St. Gabriel's, *. ; St. Matthew's, *. ; St. Peter's, *. ; All Souls', 140 ; St. John's, *. ; St. Mark's, ib. ; St. Paul's, *. ; St. Stephen's, *. ; Lock's Fields, *. ; the Surrey Gardens, *. ; tempo rary use of music hall for St. Thomas's Hospital, 141 ; serious accident, ib. Newlands, manor of, 337, 381 Newman, Robert Wilham, Esq., 332 Nicholl, Rev. John Richard, 161 Norbrith, 347 Norbury, manor of, 236 Norfolk House, Lambeth, 77 NorthaU, manor of, 380 Norwood, St. Luke's district, 115 ; Vicar's Oak, 116 ; Gipsy House, *. ; Westow Hill, 117 ; Crystal Palace, ib. ; Royal Normal College and Academy of Music for the Bhnd, 118 ; Roman Cathohc Orphanage of Our Lady, *. ; North Surrey District School, ib. ; All Saints' Church, *. ; St. Paul's Church, 119; Christ Church, *. ; St. John the Evangehst's, *.; St. Mark's, *.; Holy Trinity, ib. ; St. Luke's Church, ib. ; Norwood Cemetery, *. ; Jews' Hospital, 120 ; Jewish Convalescent Home, ib. ; School of the Westmoreland Society, *. ; St. Saviour's Almshouse, ib. ; schools, &c, 121 ; Industrial Institu tion for the Infant Poor of Lambeth,*. Nunhead Cemetery, 19 Ommanney, Rev. Edward Aislabie, 191 Onslow, Rev. Arthur Cyril, 134 Otter, Rev. Wilham, 103 Owen, Rev. Edward, 190 Oxted, or Oxtead, situation, boundaries, and soU, 374; Barrow Green, ib. ; descent of the manor, *. ; manor of Birstead, 375 ; manor of Broadhams, ib. ; manor of Foyle, *. ; Sir John Gresham, ib. ; manor of Stoketts, 376 ; Stone Hall, *. ; the rectory, *. ; rectors since 1800, *. ; the parish church, 377 ; monuments to the Hos kins family, ib. ; Registers, 378 ; bene factions to the poor, 379 Padinden, manor of, 365 Palmer, Rev. George Thomas, 134 Palmerston, Viscount, 332 Parker, Archbishop, desecration of his tomb, 59 ; Queen Elizabeth's indig nation at his breach of cehbacy, *. ; entertains Queen Ehzabeth at Croy don, 233 Parnell, Rev. Frank, 376 Partridge, John, astrologer, 195 Payne, George, and Mr. Clark, duel fought by, 228 Peach, Rev. Henry, 303 Pearson, Charles, Esq., 132 Peckham, 20 Peers, Rev. John Witherington, D.C.L., 318 Pemberton, Rev. Edward Robert, D.C.L., 215 PendeU, 329 Penge, its schools and pubhc institu tions, 180 Pepys, Samuel, death of, 31 Pestalozzi, Henry, 309 Phillips, Rev. Roland, D.D., 242 Picart, Rev. Samuel, 134 Pitt, WiUiam, and George Tierney, duel fought by, 197 Playfere, Thomas, Rector of Cheam, 303 Plumptre, Rev. Henry Scawen, 112 Ponsonby, Hon. John George Brabazon, 332 Pope, Rev. Stephen, 112 Porcher, Josias Dupre, Esq., 332 Porteus, Dr. Beilby, Rector of Lambeth, 68 Porye, John, Rector of Lambeth, 67 Poynder, Rev. Henry, 355 Poynder, Rev. Wilham, 355 Prichard, Rev. James Cowles, 314 Purley, 265 Putney, boundaries and soil, 195 ; early history, *. ; royal fishes, *. ; the bridge, 196 ; the fire-proof house, *. ; Putney Heath, 197 ; famous duels fought here, *. ; Putney made the head-quarters of Fairfax and CromweU during the civil wars, *. ; Putney Park, 198 ; advowson, 199 ; extracts from the parish Register, ib. ', perpetual curates, ib. ; St. Mary's Church, *. ; St. John's Church, 201 ; All Saints', *. ; almshouses, *. ; CoUege of Civil Engineers, *. ; Lime Grove, 202 ; Bowling-Green House, INDEX. 39i *. ; Chelsea Water Works reservoir, ib. ; the University boat race, 203 ; Royal Hospital for Incurables, ib. ; Roehampton, *. ; eminent natives and former residents of Putney, 205 ; Nicholas West, Bishop of Ely, *. ; Thomas CromweU, Earl of Essex, *. ; Edward Gibbon, the historian, 206; Robert Wood, author of the " Ruins of Palmyra," 207; John Toland, a deistical writer, *. Pyne, Rev. W. Master, 376 Ramsay, John, Prior of Merton, 184 Randolph, Rev. George, 262 Randolph, Rev. Herbert, B.D., 224 Randolph, Rev. John, 266 Randolph, Rev. John H., 266 RavenhiU, Rev. John, 211 Bavensbury, manor of, 311 Reeves, Rev. Fred. John Hawkes, 191 Rice, Rev. Charles Hobbes, 303 Richard, Prior of Merton, 184 Robert, Prior of Merton, 184 Roberts, Rev. Alfred, 272 Robinson, Rev. Christopher Thomas, 199 Roehampton, 203 ; Roehampton House, ih. ; Mount Clare, 204 ; Bessborough House, *.; Devonshire House, *.; the Rookery, *..; a violent whirlwind, *. Romeney, John, Prior of Merton, 184 Rooksnest, 381 Rose, Rev. WiUiam, 225 Rotherhithe, etymology of, 141 ; boun daries, *. ; early history of, 142 ; descent of the manor, *. ; Thames Tunnel, 146 ; Commercial Docks, 1 50 ; Grand Surrey Canal, 152 ; advowson of Rotherithe, *.; the parish Regis ters, *. ; rectors since 1800, 153 ; St. Mary's Church, *.; tomb of Prince Lee Boo, 154 ; Admiral Sir John Leake, *. ; Trinity Church, 155 ; All Saints' Church, *.; Christ Church, *. ; birthplace of Admiral Benbow, *. ; Sir WiUiam Gomm, 156 ; St. Paul's Chapel-of-Ease, *. ; St. Barnabas Church, *. ; schools, ib. ; Southwark Park, ib. RoupeU, WiUiam, 132 Royal Victoria Patriotic Asylum, 220 Russell, Matthew, Esq., 332 Russell, Rev. Lord Wriothesley, 161 RusseU, William, Esq., 332 St. John, Rev. Henry St. Andrew, 199 St. John, Rev. John Fleming, 199 St. John, Rev. John Francis S. Fleming, 199 St. John, Viscount, the famUy of, 173 St. Thomas's Hospital, Lambeth, 85 Salyng, William, Prior of Merton, 184 Sandby, Rev. George, 9 Sanderstead, boundaries and nature of the soil, 263 ; descent of the manor, 264 ; Purley, 265 ; Purley House, 266 ; Sanderstead House, *. ; rectors since 1800, *. ; parish church, ib.; monuments, 267 ; a remarkable yew- tree, 268 ; parsonage and schools, *. ; Christ Church, *. ; Selsdon, ih. Scawen, Sir WiUiam, 293 Schirfeld, Thomas, Prior of Merton, 184 Scot, Col. Thomas, depredations com mitted by, at Lambeth Palace, 46 Scott family, burial-place of, 10 Selsdon, 268 Senhouse, Dr. Richard, Rector of Cheam, 303 Sheffield, manor of, 367 Shepherd, Rev. Henry, 257 Shirley, 255 Shovelstrode, manor of, 366 Shutte, Rev. Albert Shadwell, 191 Sidmouth, Viscount, 191 Slake, Nicholas, Rector of.Lambeth, 66 Smijth, Rev. Edward Bowyer, 9 Smith, Alderman, monument of, 216 Sneyd, Rev. WetenhaU, 333 South London Water Works, 100 Southwark Park, 156 Spear, Rev. James, 153 Stagbury, 271 Stangrave, 330 Stansted, 257 Starborough, manor of, 363 Stein, John, Esq., 331 Stephen, Prior of Merton, 184 Stephens, WUham, Rector of Sutton, 322 Stewart, Rev. David Dale, 262 Stewart, Rev. James Haldane, 340, 360 Stockenden, or Storkenden, 359 Stockwell, manor of, 105 ; John An- geU's bequest, 107 ; Stockwell Green, 108 ; the Stockwell ghost, ib. ; St. Andrew's Church, 109 ; St. Michael's Church, *.; SmaU-pox Hospital, 110 ; Fever Hospital, *. ; Stockwell Orphanage, *. ; Dunsford Lodge, *. Stoketts, manor of, 376 Storie, Rev. John George, 9 Streatham, etymology, 157 ; bounda ries, ib. ; nature of soU, *. ; medicinal spring, ib. ; historical records of, *. ; manor of Tooting-Bec, or Tooting- Beck, 158 ; manor of Leigham's Court, 159 ; Knight's Hill, 160 ; Lord Thurlow's residence, *. ; ad vowson of Streatham, 161 ; rectors since 1800, *. ; St. Leonard's Church, *. ; Christ Church, 162 ; the Church of Immanuel, *. ; St. Stephen's, ib. ; the viUage of Streatham, *. ; alms houses, 163 ; charitable donations, ib.; St. Leonard's National Schools, ib. ; Magdalen Hospital, *. ; Streat ham Park, *. ; Mrs. Thrale and Dr. Johnson,*.; manor of Balham,*.; St. Mary's Church, 164 ; Bedford House, *. Surrey Canal, 152 Surrey Lunatic Asylum, 219 Surrey Zoological Gardens, 140 Sutton, boundaries and nature of soU, 320 ; Sutton Common, *. ; descent of the manor, ib. ; the advowson, 321 ; rectors since 1800, *. ; the parish church, *. ; Benhilton, 323 ; bene factions to the parish, *. Swinny, Rev. Henry Hutchinson, 191 Talbot, Sir Charles, 332 Tandridge, hundred of, 324 Tandridge, boundaries and soil, 379 ; descent of the manor, *. ; Tandridge Court, 380 ; manor of NorthaU, *. ; Tillingdon, *. ; manor of Newlands, 381 ; Tandridge HaU, *. ; Rooks nest, *. ; the priory of Tandridge, 382 ; the advowson, *.; curates and vicars since 1800, 383 ; the parish church, *. ; donations to the parish, 384 ; schools, *. Teignmouth, Lord, residence of, 33 Tenchleys, 358 Tenison, Archbishop, memorial of, 72 Tennyson, George, Esq., 332 Tennyson, Right Hon. Charles, 132, 332 Thames Tunnel, 146 Thirlby, Thomas, 72 Thomas, Rev. James, 369 Thomas, Rev. John, D.D., 333 Thornton, Rev. WUham Wheeler, 355 Thorp, Rev. Thomas, 376 Thrale, Mrs., her residence at Streat ham, 163 392 INDEX. Thurlow, Lord, his residence at Streat ham, 160 Tichfield, Marquis of, 332 Tillingdon, 380 Todd, Rev. Henry James, 255 Todd, Rev. Henry John, 262 Toland, John, a deistical writer, 207 Tolsworth, manor of, 256 Tooting, or Lower Tooting, boundaries and soil, 208 ; early history and de scent of manor, *.; advowson, 210 ; St. Nicholas Church, *. ; rectors, 211 ; artesian well, *. ; Lambeth Cemetery, *. ; National Schools, *. ; HiU House, *. ; meeting-house for Independents, *. Tooting-Bec, manor of, 158 Townsend, Rev. Richard Lateward, 215 Tradescants, burial-place of the, 74 ; museum, 75 Trevereux, 359 Tritton, Rev. Robert, 318 Tufhell, Rev. Edward Wyndham, D.D., 242 Tunstall, Cuthbert, 71 Tyrrell, James, 15 University boat race, 203 VauxhaU Bridge, 96 Vauxhall Gardens, 89 ; firework illu minations and balloon ascents, 95 ; sale and demolition of the gardens, 96 Venn, Rev. John, 34 Vernon, Rev. WiUiam Hardy, 295 Vicar's Oak, 41, 116 Victoria Patriotic Asylum, Royal, 220 Vilhers, Thomas Hyde, Esq., 332 Vyse, Rev. WUham, LL.D., 66 Waddon, manor of, 234 WaUington, 229, 278, 289 Walpole, Rev. Thomas, 360 Walsh, John Benn, Esq., 331 Walter, Prior of Merton, 184 Walworth Common, 140 Walworth, manor of, 133 Wandsworth, etymology, 211 ; boun daries and soil, 212 ; Doomsday ac count of manor, ib. ; manor of Batter sea and Wandsworth, *. ; manor of Downe, ib. ; manor of Dunsfold, 213 ; manor of Alfarthing, ib. ; ad vowson, 214 ; extracts from the parish Register, *. ; vicars since 1800, 215 ; All Saints' Church, *. ; execution of Griffith Clarke, Vicar of Wandsworth, *. ; monuments in the parish church, 216 ; St. Anne's Church, 217 ; St. Mary's, ib. ; St. Paul's, *. ; Holy Trinity, *. ; St. Thomas of Canter bury, *. ; the viUage, *. ; the County Prison, *. ; the bridge, *. ; the " Frying-pan houses," 218 ; thehamlet of Garrett, *. ; the " Mayor of Garrett," *. ; national and other schools, *. ; Melrose Hall, now the Royal Hos pital for Incurables, *.; St. Peter's Hospital, 219 ; Friendless Boys' Home, ib. ; Surrey Industrial School, ib. ; Wandsworth Bridge, *. ; Surrey Lunatic Asylum, *. ; Royal Victoria Patriotic Asylum, 220 ; Mulberry Cottage, *. ; Clapham Junction Sta tion, *. Warner, Rev. Ferdinando, LL.D., 169 Waterloo Bridge, 124 Waters, Rev. John, LL.B., 383 Watson, Anthony, Rector of Cheam, 302 Wat Tyler's attack on Lambeth Palace, 45 Welton, Rev. Robert, 257 Welton, Rev. Thomas, 257 West, Nicholas, Bishop of Ely, 205 Westminster Bridge, 84 Wharton, Rev. Henry James, 314 Whattington, or Waddon, manor of, 259 Wheelwright, Rev. George, 340 Whitgift's Hospital, Croydon, 244 WigseU, Rev. Atwood Wigsell, 266 WUkes's riots, 136. Wilkinson, Wilham Arthur, Esq., 132 Willey, manor of, 256 Wilham, Prior of Merton, 184 Wilhams, Rev. James, 9 Williams, Wilham, Esq., 132 Wilson, Rev. Christopher, D.D., 169 WUson, Kev. Daniel Frederic, 314 Wimbledon, boundaries and nature of the soil, 220 ; artesian well, ib. ; de rivation of name, ib. ; early history, 221 ; Sir Thomas Cecil, afterwards Earl of Exeter, *. ; Edward CecU, Baron of Putney and Wimbledon, ib. ; description of the manor-house, 222 ; Queen Victoria entertained at Wim bledon Park House, 223 ; advowson, 224; vicars of Wimbledon since 1800, *. ; St. Mary's Church, *. ; Christ Church, 226 ; Holy Trinity Church, *. ; Atkinson Morley Convalescent Hospital, *. ; ancient entrenchment on Wimbledon Common, *. ; Wim bledon House, 227 ; ancient barrows on Wimbledon Common, *. ; duel between the Duke of York and Colonel Lennox, 228 ; duel between Sir Francis Burdett and John Paull, *. ; duel between George Payne and Mr. Clark, *. ; duel between the Marquis of Londonderry and Henry Grattan, *. ; duel between the Earl of Cardigan and Capt. Harvey Tuck ett, *. ; National Rifle Association contests, *. Wing, Rev. John, 161 Wingfield, Rev. John, D.D., 199 Winlaw, Rev. Wilham, 318 Witford, manor of, 310 WUst, Thomas, Prior of Merton, 184 Wood, Robert, author of the " Ruins of Palmyra," 207 Wood, Rev. William, B.D., 262 Woodmansterne, boundaries, &c, 269 ; descent of the manor, 270 ; Stagbury, 271 ; the advowson, 272 ; rectors since 1800, ib. ; the parish church, ih. ; the Oaks, *. Wordsworth, Rev. Christopher, D.D. 66 Wyche, Henry, Rector of Sutton, 322 Wynter, Sir Edward, monument of, 177 Vork, Duke of, and Col. Lennox, duel fought by, 228 END OP VOL. III. PRINTED BY VIRTUE AUD CO., LIMITED, CITT KOAD, LONDON. VALE UNIVERSITY