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BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME
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Society of the Cincinnati
Fund

TTie South part of New-England, as it is
Planted this yeare, i6g4.

TWO CENTURIES
OF TRAVEL IN
ESSEX COUNTY
MASSACHUSETTS A COLLECTION OF NARRATIVES
AND OBSERVATIONS MADE
BY TRAVELERS 1605-1799

Collected and Annotated
By George Francis Dow

THE TOPSFIELD HISTORICAL SOCIETY
TOPSFIELD, MASS.
1921

ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY COPIES PRINTED

THE PERKINS PRESS
MASS.

CONTENTS
List of Illustrations  v
Introduction  vii
Samuel de Champlain in 1605  1
Capt. John Smith in 1614  6
Christopher Levett in 1624  7
Rev. Francis Higginson in 1629  8
Gov. Thomas Dudley in 1631  13
William Wood in 1633  14
Thomas Lechford in 1641  18
Edward Johnson in 1652  20
Samuel Maverick in 1660  26
John Josselyn in 1671  28
John Dunton in 1686  31
Edward Ward in 1699  45
Thomas Story in 1699 and 1704  46
John Higginson in 1700  54
Rev. George Keith in 1702  57
John Oldmixon in 1708  60
Rev. John Barnard in 1714  62
Dr. Alexander Hamilton in 1744  64
Rev. George Whitefield in 1740  71
Capt. Francis Goelet in 1750  73
Hugh Finlay in 1773  77
Marquis de Chastellux in 1782  80
John Adams in 1766-1774  87
Simeon Baldwin in 1784  96
Luigi Castiglioni in 1785  99
Rev. William Bentley in 1787-1799 ... .103
Jean Pierre Brissot de Warville in 1788 . . 164
George Washington in 1789  167
John Drayton in 1794 .... . . 171
Duke de la Rochefoucault-Liancourt in 1796 . .172
Robert Gilmor in 1797  .182
iii

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Map of the South Part of New-England in 1634 Frontispiece
From Wood's "New-Englands Prospect," London, 1634.
North East View of the Town of Newburyport . . 81
From an engraving made in 1775 by Benjamin Johnston.
The Brick School House in Salem  89
From a watercolor made about 1765 by Dr. Joseph Orne,
now owned by the Essex Institute, Salem.
The Essex Merrimack Bridge at Newburyport . . . 133
From a drawing by J. Downer, engraved for the "Mass
achusetts Magazine," May, 1793.
View of the Court House in Salem  169
From an engraving by S. Hill, in the "Massachusetts
Magazine," March, 1790.
North East Prospect of the Town of Newburyport . 177
From an engraving made in 1796 by Benjamin Tucker.
View of Mr. Derby's House in Salem . . . .182
From a drawing made in 1797 by Robert Gilmor.
View of the Bridge at Haverhill, over the Merrimack
River  183
From a drawing made in 1797 by Robert Gilmor.
Note. — Six of the above illustrations appear here through the
courtesy of the Essex Institute, Salem, Mass. ; the last two by the
courtesy of the Boston Public Library.

INTRODUCTION
THE County of Essex is located in the northeastern corner of
Massachusetts. It has at the north, the boundary line of New
Hampshire, which skirts the Merrimack river at a distance of
three miles, and at the east, the Atlantic ocean, with numerous rivers,
bays and inlets indenting the coastline. The earliest settlements in
the Massachusetts Bay Colony were made here and a growth of num
erous towns with a considerable development of commercial enter
prise, where suitable harbors existed, soon brought about a larger pop
ulation than in any other part of the State save in Boston and its more
immediate vicinity. Here are the towns of Salem, Ipswich, Newbury,
Haverhill, Gloucester, Marblehead and Lynn. With the increase of
population came wealth followed by a higher standard of living and
a culture and development of natural resources that could not fail to
attract and interest the traveling stranger. In the course of time a
considerable number of observers visited the County and some of
them preserved a record of what they had seen which afterwards was
published. In the following pages these descriptions have been col
lected and reprinted in chronological order. Only the more extended
and important descriptions have been included, for in historical
writings, in memoirs and in diaries, a considerable mass of matter
may be found that has a certain amount of descriptive interest.
Much of it, however, is so meagre and so disconnected that it has
been found to be impracticable to gather up these loose threads and
use them in the present work. Governor Winthrop's "History of New
England," for example, has much of interest that wanders along the
border line between history and description. Of autobiographical
accounts, there are volumes too numerous to mention which frequent
ly preserve a scrap or two of descriptive matter. The account of
his life written by Josiah Cotton, who went to Marblehead in 1698
to teach school, may be taken as a fair example :
vii

viii introduction
I have heretofore thought of writing a particular character and
description of Marblehead, or rather of my observations there, but
upon the attempt, finding I could not do it without too much satyr
and reflection (perhaps to some to whom I was obliged), I laid it
aside and shall only say that the whole township is not much bigger
than a large farm, and very rocky, and so they are forc't to get their
living out of the sea, not having room to confound the fisherman
with the husbandman, and so spoil both as they do in some places. It
has a very good Harbour which they improve to the best advantage
for Fishing both Summer and Winter . . . And finally it is one
of the best country places to keep school in, provided a man be firm
ly fix't in principles of Virtue and religion, which I heartily wish
were more abundant among them in the life and power of it.
Many diaries have been kept by those who lived in the County
and by others who had occasion to pass through it at various times.
But aside from that monument to the industry of Rev. William
Bentley, the Salem clergyman, published in four thick volumes, with
but few exceptions they preserve only "line-a-day" entries that are
little better than memory -joggers. Judge Samuel Sewall of Boston,
frequently came to Salem or visited his relatives in Newbury, but
he was interested in persons mainly, and so we find little in his
Diary with which to picture the towns through which he passed.
Noah Webster, the philologist rode through the County in 1784. He
then was twenty-six years old and already had published the first
part of his "Grammatical Institute of the English Language," and'
yet his diary, which he kept for many years, contains only the follow
ing scant information :
June 10, 1784. Rode in the Stage Coach to Newbury Port.
11. Took a view of the Town.
12. Rode to Portsmouth.
The almanacs of the day preserve information in relation to the
roads and taverns with sometimes a scrap of description. In 1732
there was published in Boston, "The Vade Mecum for America, or a
Companion for Traders and Travellers." The title looks promising
but the descriptive matter is largely confined to a list of "The Principal
Roads from the mouth of the Kennebec River in the North East of
New England to the James River in Virginia." There are several

introduction ix
gazetteers and works like Herman Moll's "Modern History," Dublin,
1739, containing bits of information relating to Essex County, but
when sifted to the bottom much, if not all of it, is the result of industry
at the library table and has been taken from the published writings
of those who have visited the County at an earlier date.
In 1670, were published in London, two thick folio volumes with the
following title : "A Mirrour or Looking-Glass both for Saints, and
Sinners . . . where unto is added a Geographical Description of
all the Countries in the known World . . . with a True, and
Faithful Account of the four Chiefest Plantations of the English in
America . . . Collected by Samuel Clarke, sometime Pastor in
Saint Bennet-Fink, London." The description of the towns in Essex
County is scanty, but it would be of interest if it did not soon appear
that the late Pastor of St. Bennets', had purloined his information
from Higginson and Wood. The next year was printed : "America ;
being the latest and most accurate description of the New World
. . . Collected from most Authentick Authors, augmented with
later Observations, and adorned with Maps and Sculptures, by John
Ogilby, Esq.," London, 1671. This text varies somewhat from the
previous title for the reason that the "Wonder- Working Providence,"
by Johnson, supplied additional information. An active demand for
such compilations must have existed about that time for five years
later, John Speed published a volume with the following title : "Eng
land, Wales, Scotland and Ireland Described ... In this New
Edition are added, The Descriptions of His Majesties Dominions
abroad, viz., New England, New York, Carolina, Florida, Virginia,
etc.," London, 1676. This is a compilation from the same sources
but greatly condensed.
Midway between the fragmentary allusions to Essex County towns
and the extended descriptions here printed in the text come a number
of short items which it has seemed best to group in this "Introduc
tion." Some of them bring to light matter of considerable interest.
In the "Collections of the New York Historical Society," 2d series
Vol. Ill, part 1, is printed the "Journal of an Embassy from Canada
to the United Colonies of New England in 1650 by Father Gabriel
Druillettes of the Society of Jesus," in which appears the follow
ing: —

X introduction
The 9th of said month [January, 1649-1650] bad weather stopped
us at Morblentz [Marblehead] where there is a quantity of people.
The minister, by name William Walter, received me with great affec
tion, in company with him I went to Salem to speak to the Sieur
Indicott [Endecott], who speaks and understands French well and is
a good friend of the nation and very earnest to have his children in
herit this affection. Seeing that I had no money, he defr?yed n^ y
expenses and invited me to the table of the magistrates, who for a
week were giving audience to everybody.
In the New England entries in the Plantation Office, now preserved
in the Public Record Office, London, is a paper containing observa
tions on New England made about the year 1673. Among other
"observations" are the following :
Not 10 houses in Boston which have 10 rooms each.
The worst cottages in New England are lofted.
There are no musicians by trade.
A dancing school was set up : but put down.
No cloth made there, worth 4/ per yard.
No linen above 2/6.
They take an oath of fidelity to the governor, but none to the king.
An unknown French protestant refugee in Boston, in 1687, in a
report now preserved in the Library of Geneva and published in the
"Bulletin Historique et Litteraire of the Societe de I'Histore du Pro-
testantisme Francais, Feb. 1867" (reprinted Brooklyn, N. Y. 1868),
has the following allusion to Salem, viz : —
There are here [Boston] divers French Families who have purchased
English Residences all built, and which they have got exceedingly
cheap. M. de Bourepos, Brother of our Minister, has bought one
fifteen miles from here, and at one League from a very pretty town,
and where there is a great Trade, which they call Sallem, for sixty-
eight Pistoles,* of ten Livres of France each. The House is very
pretty, and it never was built for fifty Pistoles. There are seven
teen acres of Land all cleared, and a little orchard.
The Maine Historical Society, in its sixth volume of Collections,
prints a memoir copied from the French Archives, concerning Acadia
and the New England Colonies in 1692. It was written by M. de la
Mothe Cadillac. There is one small allusion to Salem :
Salem is another little town, at the distance of five leagues from
*The pistole was then worth about ten francs.

introduction Xl
Boston. It is not fortified : it is the principal residence of the fisher
men. Large vessels cannot get within half a league of it.
One Capt. Nathaniel Uring published in London, in 1726, a volume
describing his voyages and travels from which the following is ab
stracted :
In April 1709, I set out from London for Plymouth, where a ship
was bought for me of 150 tons and 16 guns, which I was fitting
in order to make a v oyage to the Streights : but the government at
that time wanting a vessel to send Express to New England, hired
her for that purpose, having provided the ship with all the necessaries
for such a voyage. I received my Lord Sunderland's orders and dis
patches (who was then one of the principal Secretaries of State) and
set sail for Boston in New England, in May following ; and in about a
month arrived at that Port, and delivered my dispatches or Letters
as I was directed. . . . There are several other towns of consider
able trade, viz. Marble head, Salem, Ipswich, and Newbery, which are all
good harbours, some of which rivers run up more than one hundred
miles into the country, and there are several other lesser towns, to
describe all which with their polity, manners, and nature of their
trade, would take up a volume ; . . . All the country of New
England takes off great quantities of the British manufactories, and
in return builds us ships, and sends us whale oil and bone, great
quantities of turpentine, pitch and tar ; some furs and deer skins ;
besides which many ships from England lade with dried fish for the
Streights and Portugal . . . They have very good roads all
through the country, where I have been more agreeably entertained
in travelling, than in either France or Italy. The inhabitants of the
towns, as well as in the country, are such enemies to trees that they
have hardly left one standing in half a mile of their houses, but are
all in general naked. They are mostly a sly, crafty, tricking, design
ing sort of people ; and when ever you make an agreement with
them, if you don't make it in writing, and have under their hands
for the performance, if they meet with any man that will give them
half a crown in a hundred pounds more than you have agreed for,
they'll not stand to their bargain. The country people are so ad
dicted to cheating, that governour Dudley used to say, if salt water
were to be sold by measure they would even cheat ; however, there
are some honest gentlemen to be found in the place, that are men
of honour and strict justice.
Near Boston are the following manufactories established, accord
ing to the accounts given me by a considerable merchant there :
. . . at Newbury Port, Joseph Brown, a clothier, makes a variety

xii introduction
of woolen goods of the coarse kinds ; at Ipswich, the woolen manu
factory, by Messrs. Warner and a Doctor Manning. There is also
in this town, which is an inland situation, a large bone-lace manu
factory, employing near an hundred cushions. But all these I judge
rather the seeds of manufactories, than any large or permanent
establishments. So wrote Henry Wansey in his "Journal of an Excursion to the
United States of North America in the summer of 1794," Salisbury,
1796. In 1801, was published in Cork, Ireland ; "An Historical Review
and Directory of North America, By a Gentleman immediately re
turned from a tour of that Continent :" containing the following
comment on privateering that properly might have been brought to
the attention of Parhament a few years later.
Salem is 18 miles distant from Boston. It is a large town extend
ing near a mile in length, and contains about 1500 houses. It has
a very noble church and meeting-houses. It stands on a plain be
tween two rivers, and has two harbours. It is a town famous for
ship-building, and carries on a very extensive trade. Here the plant
ers of Massachusetts made their first settlement. It is not unlike
Harwich. Newbury is pleasantly situated at the mouth of the river Merri
mack. It is 34 miles from Boston. It is a small town but well built,
has several very handsome houses, and is encreasing daily. The
ware-houses of the merchants which are near their own houses,
serve by way of ornament, and in point of architecture, resemble
not a little our large green houses.
N. B. Between Newbury and Salem lies Ipswich, a seaport town
and very populous. The privateers which so greatly molested the
British trade, were chiefly from those ports ; and such is their posi
tion, that they can run out at any season of the year, and commit
depredations on any of the maritime powers to which America is
hostile, with little fear of retaliation. Newfoundland, Nova Scotia,
the Gulphs of St Lawrence and Florida, and the whole trade of the
West Indian Archipelago, are in a manner at their doors.
The activities of the Quakers in New England in the early days
are well known and Bishop's "New England Judged by the Spirit of
the Lord," London, 1661, presents their indictment against the Puri
tan leaders. Later, there were many wandering or itinerant preach
ers who traveled through New England and in due course visited the

introduction xiii
towns in Essex County. In after years the story of their travels
frequently was printed. There are a large number of these narra
tives sometimes only setting forth the bare fact that the author
preached at Lynn or Salem, but always devoting liberal space to re
ligious experiences and doctrinal analysis. An early example is
"The Truth Exalted in the Writings of that Eminent and Faithful
Servant of Christ, John Burnyeat . . . Collected as a Memorial
to His Faithful Labours," London, 1691. He landed in Maryland in
1665 and after spending some time in New York, reached Salem in
1666. I took my Journey . . . from Boston to Salem, and so on to
Piscatoway, and when I was clear there, I returned back through the
Meetings, and came to Hampton, Salem, Boston, etc.
This took place in August, 1666. He also visited Salem again in
June, 1671. Again in June, 1672, he visited Salem in company with
John Cartwright and George Patteson.
There we had a Meeting, and a blessed Season : but there we met
with some, that were gone into that foolish notion of John Parrots,
Keeping on their Hats, when Friends prayed, &c. So after meeting
was over, when many People was in a Barn, we had a meeting with
several of the Chief of Friends . . . and so took our Journey.
In 1671, William Edmundson, an English Friend," had movings of
the Spirit" to come to America and sailed in company with George
Fox. He visited the West Indies, Virginia, Maryland and New York
and reached New England in 1675.
I took Passage for Rhode Island in a Yatch, that Joseph Bryar, a
Friend, was master of . . . Peoples Minds were down, because
of the Indian wars that prevailed mightily upon them.
His travels were published in Dublin in 1715. He made three voy
ages to America previous to the year 1700. Thomas Chalkley, the
famous Quaker preacher visited Essex County in 1698 and again in
1704. His "Journal and Christian Experiences" has been published
several times.
From Providence I went to Boston and Salem, where I had meet
ings, and from thence to Hampton. ... In those parts God
Almighty hath shortened the power of persecutors, and hath brought

xiv INTRODUCTION
his righteous judgments upon them for their unrighteousness
. . . I being a stranger and traveller, could not but observe the
barbarous and unchristian-like welcome I had in Boston, the metrop
olis of New-England, Oh! what pity (said one) it was, that all of
your society were not hanged with the other four!* ... At
Salisbury we had a large open meeting, as it was supposed, of about
three hundred people, which was at this time accounted a great con
course of people thereabouts ; also at Jamaica' and Haverhill we had
meetings, and from thence went to Salem and Lynn again.
[In the summer of 1737] I went with Benjamin Bagnal, to Boston,
and from thence to Lynn and Salem, had several satisfactory meet
ings, which tended to the uniting our hearts together in the love of
Christ, and the fellowship of his gospel. From Salem I went with
Zaccheus Collins and his wife to their house, and lodged there three
nights, and was lovingly entertained, as I was also at many other
friends houses. From Lynn, Zaccheus Collins accompanied me to
Boston, where we had a meeting on a fourth day of the week.
"An account of the Life and Travels of Benjamin Holmes in the
Work of the Ministry, through several Parts of Europe and America,
written by Himself," was published in London in 1754. It has brief
mention of Essex County towns.
[In March 1715, 1 went] to Newberry: and at this Place some that
were of account amongst the Presbyterians were convinc'd, and came
to join with Friends, at which several of the Presbyterians were much
disturbed ; I had a publick Dispute there with the Priest of the Town,
whose name was Christopher Toppin, in their Meeting-house, and it
being given out before hand for several Days, there came some Hun
dreds of People and several Priests to the Place ; we agreed to dis
pute conceming Water-Baptism, the Supper with Bread and Wine, the
Sufficiency ofthe Light within, and that it was not lawful to preach for
Hire, and some other Heads besides ; I suppose the Dispute might
hold five Hours, . . . After I had several meetings in those
Parts I returned to Salem and Boston.
John Frothergill, another Quaker preacher, visited Salem in 1706
and went on to Dover, N. H. He came again in 1722. The "Account
of his Life and Travels in the work of the Ministry," was published
in Philadelphia in 1754.
In October, 1754, Catherine Phillips, an English Friend, visited
?Referring to Marmaduke Stevenson, William Robinson, Mary Dyer, aud Wil
liam Ledra who were put to death in 1659 and 1660.

INTRODUCTION XV
Lynn, Salem, Newbury and Almsbury, and held meetings in each of
these towns. Her memoirs were published in Philadelphia in 1798.
Daniel Sands, another Friend, visited Salem several times but left no
account of what happened beyond the fact that in October, 1777, he
lodged there with Jeremiah Hacker. The "Journal of the Life,
Travels, and Gospel Labours of a Faithful Minister of Jesus Christ,
Daniel Stanton," was published in Philadelphia in 1772, from which
the following has been taken :
From Boston I went to Lyn, Salem, and Newberry, and had com
fortable meetings, as also at another place between Newberry and
Dover, and after I had seen Friends at Dover and Cachechy, and a
meeting near Dover, I returned to Salem and Lyn, and staid some
time at my kind Friend Zaccheus CoUins's, having met with some
disappointment in travelling, which detained me some weeks, but I
constantly attended meetings at Lyn, and found great openness and
unity with Friends there, and believe my stay tended to some service,
for the promoting of near love among the little flock of Christ in
that place, having many blessed opportunities among them. I also
went to the Yearly-Meeting at Boston, and back to the Yearly-Meet
ing at Lyn ; which was large and greatly favoured with the ministry
and service of that worthy handmaid of the Lord Lydia Norton.
After this volume was nearly all in type, through the courtesy of
Mr. Henry Russell Drowne of New York City, a copy of a portion of
the diary of his great-grandfather. Dr. Solomon Drowne, was received.
This eminent physician was graduated at Rhode Island College (now
Brown University) in 1773, studied medicine, became distinguished
in his profession, and 1811 was appointed Professor of Botany and
Materia Medica in Brown University.
He was a surgeon in the Revolution and in 1788 was with General St.
Clair in the Ohio. The journey through Essex County here described
was taken in company with Rev. James Manning, the founder and
first President of Rhode Island College, who was a Baptist minister
of great ability and influence.
Sept. 21, 1773. Towards 9 o'clock set out for Wenham, stop a
short time at Mr Freemans and Mr Stilmans Doors. Cross Charles-
town Ferry at 9. Go to Nat Brownes' in Charlestown. ... I
step to Mr Kurd's. . . . Dine at Mr Porter's Tavern; after
which proceed to Salem, where we stop at Mr Goodhues' Tavern to

xvi INTRODUCTION
bait our horses &c. Cross beverly Ferry & reach Esqr Brown's,
Wenham, a little before 7, where we put up for this night.
22. Before 9 we mount for Ipswich. Esqr Brown accompanies
us to the Hamlet. We go to Mr Appleton's where we dine. After
noon : Mr Manning Joseph Appleton & I rode into the Town : stop
at Mr Dany's, one of the ministers. Towards Sunset go to Mr Dutchs.
Mr Manning goes to Mr Story's where he lodges. Dutch, Appleton
& I go and see Kinsman, whom we take along with [us] to Mr Ap-
pletons, where Mr Stilman preaches a Lecture this Evening from
John, 1, 29. I lodge here.
23. After Dinner muster up to Town expecting to hear Mr
Manning preach their lecture ; but are disappointed. One Parsons
preaches it. The People are very desirous that the Meeting House
Doors shou'd be opened for Mr Manning to preach a Lecture after this;
but old Daddy Rogers, their Minister, is their absolute Ruler : How
ever, they prevail upon Mr Manning to preach a lecture in the Court
House in the Evening. . . . After the lecture Dutch & I ride
out to Kinsmans and stay at his house.
24. This morning rise early ; go after our horses. While we are
in the Pasture hear the Court House Bell ring ; imagine Mr Manning
is to preach another Lecture ; hasten into town and find it really so.
At the ernest Solicitation of the People he consented, last Evening,
to give them another Lecture. His Text is in 2 Cor., 4, 17. Break
fast at Mr Dutchs. Set out for Rowley or Bradford ; Appleton, Dutch,
Mr Story & son and some others accompany us. Mr Manning
preaches a Sermon at the Meeting House called Free Grace from Eph.
3, 8. After meeting go to Haverhill ; cross Merimac River in a ferry
Boat ; get to Haverhill some time in the Evening ; Put up at Mr John
White's, Merchant, an old Acquaintance of Mr. Manning's. Haver
hill is a pleasant little town situated on Merrimack River.
25. Aforenoon we go to Mr. Smiths. He Himself not at home,
then to Mr Duncan's ; thence back to Mr Whites where dine. At
about 4 o'clock go again to Mr Duncans and drink tea ; thence to
Mr Greenleafs, Tavern Keeper ; thence to our Lodgings.
26. Sunday. This Forenoon hear Mr Manning from Col. 3, 4.
27. This morning pretty early we set out for Methuen, Mr Green-
leaf and some others accompanying us. Stop a minute or two at
the Door of a House where Mr Varnum's mother is. Mr Manning
preached this Forenoon at Capt. White's (where Mr Smith meets us)
from Prov. 3, 17. After Dinner set out for Chemsford where a meet
ing is appointed for Mr Manning at 4 Oclock.

SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN IN 1605.

SAMUEL de Champlain, a native of France : soldier and advent
urer and afterwards govemor and the ruling spirit in New
France, was the first to supply a printed description of explora
tions along the coast of the Massachusetts Bay. He arrived at the
mouth of the St. Lawrence River in the spring of 1603 and after ex
ploring the Gulf returned to France in the early fall. The next year
he came again reaching Nova Scotia early in May, 1604. That year
he explored part of the Maine coast and after wintering near what
is now Eastport, Maine, in June, 1605, he set sail for a survey of the
New England coast touching at the mouth of the Kennebec river and
at Saco and then closely following the coast line until he reached
Cape Anne on the morning of the 16th of July, 1605. In September
1606 he again visited the Massachusetts coast and spent several days
in Gloucester harbor. The following account of his observations is
reprinted from The Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, translated from
the French, and published by the Prince Society, Boston, in 1880.
The original work was printed in Paris in 1613.
On the 15th of the month [July, 1605] we made twelve leagues.
Coasting along, we perceived a smoke on the shore, which we ap
proached as near as possible, but saw no savages, which led us to be
lieve that they had fled. The sun set, and we could flnd no harbor
for that night, since the coast was flat and sandy. Keeping off, and
heading south, in order to flnd an anchorage, after proceeding about
two leagues, we observed a cape* on the main land south a quarter
southeast of us, some six leagues distant. Two leagues to the east
we saw three or four rather high islands,! and on the west a large
?Cape Anne, which is the early spelling of this name.
tThe Isles of Shoals. (1)

2 SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN IN 1605.
bay. The coast of this bay, reaching as far as the cape, extends in
land from where we were perhaps four leagues. It has a breadth of
two leagues from north to south, and three at its entrance. Not ob
serving any place favorable for putting in, we resolved to go to the
cape above mentioned with short sail, which occupied a portion of the
night. Approaching to where there were sixteen fathoms of water,
we anchored until daybreak.
On the next day we went to the above-mentioned cape, where there
are three islands near the main land, full of wood of different kinds,
as at Chouacoet and all along the coast ; and still another flat one,
where there are breakers, and which extends a little farther out to
sea than the others, on which there is no wood at all. We named this
place Island Cape, near which we saw a canoe containing five or six
savages, who came out near our barque, and then went back and
danced on the beach. Sieur de Monts sent me on shore to observe
them, and to give each one of them a knife and some biscuit, which
caused them to dance again better than before. This over, I made
them understand, as well as I could, that I desired them to show me
the course of the shore. After I had drawn with a crayon the bay,
and the Island Cape, where we were, with the same crayon they drew
the outline of another bay, which they represented as very large ;
here they placed six pebbles at equal distances apart, giving me to
understand by this that these signs represented as many chiefs and
tribes. Then they drew within the first mentioned bay a river*
which we had passed, which has shoals and is very long. We found
in this place a great many vines, the green grapes on which were a
little larger than peas, also many nut-trees, the nuts on which were
no larger than musket-balls. The savages told us that those inhab
iting this country cultivated the land and sowed seeds like the others,
whom we had before seen. The latitude of this place is 43° and some
minutes. Sailing half a league farther, we observed several savages
on a rocky point, who ran along the shore, dancing as they went, to
their companions to inform them of our coming. After pointing out
to us the direction of their abode, they made a signal with smoke to
show us the place of their settlement. We anchored near a little
*The Merrimack River.

SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN IN 1605. 3
island,* and sent our canoe with knives and cakes for the savages.
From the large number of those we saw, we concluded that these
places were better inhabited than the others we had seen.
After a stay of some two hours for the sake of observing these
people, whose canoes are made of birch bark, like those of the Can
adians, Souriquois, and Etechemins, we weighed anchor and set sail
with a promise of fine weather. Continuing our course to the west-
south-west, we saw numerous islands on one side and the other. Hav
ing sailed seven or eight leagues, we anchored near an island,t whence
we observed many smokes along the shore, and many savages run
ning up to see us. Sieur de Monts sent two or three men in a canoe
to them, to whom he gave some knives and paternosters to present
to them ; with which they were greatly pleased, and danced several
times in acknowledgment. We could not ascertain the name of their
chief, as we did not know their language. All along the shore there
is a great deal of land cleared up and planted with Indian com. The
country is very pleasant and agreeable, and there is no lack of fine
trees. The canoes of those who live there are made of a single piece,
and are very liable to tum over if one is not skilful in managing them.
We had not before seen any of this kind. They are made in the
following manner. After cutting down, at a cost of much labor and
time, the largest and tallest tree they can find, by means of stone
hatchets (for they have no others except some few which they re
ceived from the savages on the coasts of La Cadie, who obtained them
in exchange for furs), they remove the bark, and round off the tree
except on one side, where they apply fire gradually along its entire
length ; and sometimes they put red-hot pebble-stones on top. When
the fire is too fierce, they extinguish it with a little water, not entire
ly, but so that the edge of the boat may not be bumt. It being hol
lowed out as much as they wish, they scrape it all over with stones,
which they use instead of knives. These stones resemble our mus
ket flints.
[September, 1606.] Continuing our course, we proceeded to the
?Thatcher's Island. tin Boston harbour.

4 SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN IN 1605.
Island Cape,* where we encountered rather bad weather and fogs,
and saw Uttle prospect of being able to spend the night under shelter,
since the locality was not favorable for this. While we were thus in
perplexity, it occurred to me that, while coasting along with Sieur
de Monts, I had noted on my map, at a distance of a league from
here, a place which seemed suitable for vessels, but which we did not
enter, because, when we passed it, the wind was favorable for con
tinuing on our course. This place we had already passed, which led
me to suggest to Sieur de Poutrincourt that we should stand in for
a point in sight, where the place in question was, which seemed to
me favorable for passing the night. We proceeded to anchor at the
mouth, and went in the next day.t
Sieur de Pontrincourt landed with eight or ten of our company.
We saw some very fine grapes just ripe, Brazilian peas, pumpkins,
squashes, and very good roots, which the savages cultivate, having
a taste similar to that of chards. They made us presents of some of
these, in exchange for little trifles which we gave them. They had
already finished their harvest. We saw two hundred savages in this
very pleasant place ; and there are here a large number of very fine
walnut trees, cypresses, sassafras, oaks, ashes, and beeches. The chief
of this place is named Quiouhamenec, who came to see us with a
neighbor of his, named Cohouepech, whom we entertained sumptuous
ly. Onemechin, chief of Chouacoet, came also to see us, to whom we
gave a coat, which he, however, did not keep a long time, but made
a present of it to another, since he was uneasy in it, and could not
adapt himself to it. We saw also a savage here, who had so wound
ed himself in the foot, and lost so much blood, that he fell down in a
swoon. Many others surrounded him, and sang some time before
touching him. Afterwards, they made some motions with their feet
and hands, shook his head and breathed upon him, when he came to
himself. Our surgeon dressed his wounds, when he went off in good
spirits. The next day, as we were calking our shallop, Sieur de Poutrin
court in the woods noticed a number of savages who were going,
with the intention of doing us some mischief, to a little stream, where
?Cape Anne. tThe harbor of Gloucester.

SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN IN 1605. 5
a neck connects with the mainland, at which our party were doing
their washing. As I was walking along this neck, these savages
noticed me ; and, in order to put a good face upon it, since they saw
I had discovered them thus seasonably, they began to shout and
dance, and then came towards me with their bows, arrows, quivers,
and other arms. And, inasmuch as there was a meadow between
them and myself, I made a sign to them to dance again. This they
did in a circle, putting all their arms in the middle. But they had
hardly commenced, when they observed Sieur de Poutrincourt in the
wood with eight musketeers, which frightened them. Yet they did
not stop until they had finished their dance, when they withdrew in
all directions, fearing lest some unpleasant tum might be served them.
We said nothing to them, however, and showed them only demon
strations of gladness. Then we returned to launch our shallop, and
take our departure. They entreated us to wait a day, saying that
more than two thousand of them would come to see us. But, unable
to lose any time, we were unwilling to stay here longer. I am of the
opinion that their object was to surprise us. Some of the land was
already cleared up, and they were constantly making clearings. Their
mode of doing it as follows ; after cutting down the trees at a dis
tance of three feet from the ground, they burn the branches upon
the trunk, and then plant their com between these stumps, in course
of time tearing up also the roots. There are likewise fine meadows
here, capable of supporting a large number of cattle. This harbor is
very fine, containing water enough for vessels, and affording a shelter
from the weather behind the islands. It is in latitude 43°, and we
gave it the name of Le Beauport.
The last day of September we set out from Beauport,* and, pass
ing Cap St. Louis, stood on our course all night for Cap Blanc.
?Gloucester.

CAPTAIN JOHN SMITH IN 1614.
CAPTAIN John Smith, the hero of Virginia, visited the New
England coast in 1614 in search of whales and mines of gold
and in an open boat skirted the coast from the Penobscot to
Cape Cod. After his retum to England he published A Description
of New England: or The Observations, and Discoveries, of Captain lohn
Smith {Admiral of that Country), in the Ncih of America, in the year
of our Lord, 1614; London, 1616, a quarto volume of about eighty
pages, from which the following is reprinted. This is the earliest
book in which the name "New England" occurs.
Angoam* is the next ; This place might content a right curious
judgement ; but there are many sands at the entrance of the harbor ;
and the worst is, it is inbayed too f arre from the deep Sea. Heere
are many rising hilles, and on their tops and descents many come
fields, and deUghtfull groues. On the East, is an He of two or three
leagues in length ; the one half, plaine marish grasse fit for pasture,
with many faire high groues of mulberrie trees and gardens; and there
is also Okes, Pines, and other woods to make this place an excellent
habitation, beeing a good and safe harbor.
Naimkeck\ though it be more rocke ground (for Angoam is sandie)
is not much inferior ; neither for the harbor, nor any thing I could per-
ceiue, but the multitude of people. From hence doth stretch into the
Sea the faire headland Tragabigzanda,% fronted with three lies called
the three Turks heads; to the North of this, doth enter a great Bay,
where wee founde some habitations and corne fields; they report a
great Riuer, and at least thirtie habitations doo possesse this Countrie.
But because the French had got their Trade, I had no leasure to dis-
couer it. The lies of Mattahunts are on the West side of this Bay,
where are many lies, and questionlesse good harbors ; and then the
Countrie of the Massachusets, which is the Paradise of all those parts ;
for, heere are many lies all planted with corne ; groues, mulberries,
saluage gardens, and good harbors; the Coast is for the most part,
high clayie sandie cliffs. The Sea Coast as you passe, shewes you aU
?Ipswich. tSalem. JCape Anne.
(6)

CAPTAIN JOHN SMITH IN 1614. 7
along large corne fields, and great troupes of well proportioned people ;
but the French hauing remained heere neere sixe weekes, left nothing
for vs to take occasion to examine the inhabitants relations, viz. if
there be neer three thousand people vpon these lies ; and that the
Riuer doth pearce many dales iournies the intralles of that Countrey.
We found the people in those parts verie kinde ; but in their furie no
lesse valiant. For, vpon a quarrell wee had with one of them, hee
only with three others crossed the harbor of Quonahassit to certaine
rocks whereby wee must passe ; and there let flie their arrowes for
our shot, till we were out of danger.

CHRISTOPHER LEVETT IN 1624.
CHRISTOPHER Levett landed on the Isles of Shoals in the autumn
of 1623. From there he went to the mouth of the Piscataqua
river, and then to an island in what is now the harbor of Port
land, Me., where he established a settlement and left ten men while
he returned to England for supplies. While he did not actually visit
the Massachusetts Bay yet he alludes to Cape Anne and Plymouth in
his printed narrative which was published in London in 1628 under
the following title : — A Voyage into New England, begun in 1623, and
ended in 1624. Performed by Christopher Levett.
Thus have I related unto you what I have seen, and do know may
be had in those parts of New England where I have been, yet was I
never at the Massachusett, which is counted the paradise of New
England, nor at Cape Ann, but I fear there hath been too fair a gloss
set on Cape Ann. I am told there is a good harbour which makes a
fair invitation, but when they are in, their entertainment is not an
swerable, for there is little good ground, and the ships which fished
there this year, their boats went twenty miles to take their fish, and
yet they were in great fear of making their voyages, as one of the
masters confessed unto me who was at my house.
Neither was I at New Plymouth, but I fear that place is not so good
as many others, for if it were, in my conceit, they would content

8 CHRISTOPHER LEVETT IN 1624.
themselves with it and not seek for any other, having ten times so
much ground as would serve ten times so many people as they have
now amongst them. But it seems they have no fish to make benefit
of, for this year they had one ship at Pemoquid, and another at Cape
Ann, where they have begun a new plantation, but how long it will
continue I know not.

REV. FRANCIS HIGGINSON IN 1629.
REV. Francis Higginson who had been settled at Claybrooke Par
ish, Leicester co., England, was engaged by "the Governour
and Company of the Massachusetts-Bay in New England" to
join the emigration under Endecott at Salem. He left England in
the spring of 1629, and not long after his arrival was ordained as
teacher of the church. The exposure and privations of the following
winter proved too severe and he died of consumption Aug. 6, 1630.
The manuscript of his book "New-Englands Plantation," undoubtedly
was sent to England by one of the retuming vessels for it reached
London before Nov. 20, 1629 and was shortly printed. It had been
written for "the satisfaction of loving friends" and doubtless played
its part in influencing the larger emigration of 1630 and the years
that followed. Three editions were printed, all in 1630.
The following discriptive extracts are taken from an early manu
script in the Massachusetts Historical Society, describing the voyage
and from the first edition of his book published under the following
title: New-Englands Plantation, or, A short and trve Description ofthe
Commodities and Discommodities of that Countrey. Written by a reu-
erend Diuine now there resident. London, 1630.
By noon we were within 3 leagues of Capan, and as we sayled
along the coasts we saw every hill and dale and every island full of
gay woods and high trees. The nearer we came to the shoare the
more flowers in abundance, sometymes scattered abroad, sometymes
joyned in sheets 9 or 10 yards long, which we supposed to be brought
from the low meadowes by the tyde. Now what with fine woods
and greene trees by land, and these yellow flowers pajTiting the sea,

REV. FRANCIS HIGGINSON IN 1629. 9
made us all desirous to see our new paradise of New England, whence
we saw such forerunning signals of fertilitie afarre off. Coming
neare the harbour towards night we takt about for sea-roome.
[June 27, 1629] Saturday a foggie morning ; but after 8 o'clocke
in the morning very cleare, the wind being somewhat contrary at So.
and by West, we tackt to and againe with getting little ; but with
much adoe, about 4 o'clock in the afternoone having with much payne
compassed the harbour, and being ready to enter the same, see how
things may suddenly change ! there came a fearful gust of wind and
rayne and thunder and lightning, whereby we were borne with no
little terrour and trouble to our mariners, having very much adoe to
loose downe the sayles when the fury of the storm held up. But
God be praised it lasted but a while and soone abated agayne. And
hereby the Lord shewed us what he could have done with us, if it
had pleased him. But blessed be God, he soone removed this storme
and it was a fayre and sweet evening.
We had a westerly wind which brought us between 5 and 6 o'clock
to a fyne and sweet harbour,* 7 miles from the head point of Capan.
This harbour 20 ships may easily ryde therein, where there was an
island whither four of our men with a boate went, and brought backe
agayne ripe strawberries and gooseberries, and sweet single roses.
Thus God was merciful to us in giving us a fast and smell of the
sweet fruit as an earnest of his bountiful goodnes to welcome us at
our first arrivall. This harbour was two leagues and something
more from the harbour at Naimkecke,t where our ships were to rest,
and the plantation is already begun. But because the passage is
difficult and night drew on, we put into Capan harbour.
[June 28] The Sabbath, being the first we kept in America, and
the 7th Lord's day after we parted with England.
[June 29] Monday we came from Capan, to go to Naimkecke, the
wind northerly. I should have tould you before that the planters
spying our English colours the GovernourJ sent a shalop with 2 men
on Saturday to pilot us. These rested the Sabbath with us at Capan ;
and this day, by God's blessing and their directions, we passed the
?Gloucester harbor. tThe Indian name for the settlement at Salem.
tGovernor John Endecott.

10 REV. FRANCIS HIGGINSON IN 1629.
curious and difficult entrance into the large and spacious harbour of
Naimkecke. And as we passed along it was wonderful to behould
so many islands replenished with thicke wood and high trees, and
many fayre greene pastures. And being come into the harbour we
saw the George* to our great comfort then being on Tuesday which
was 7 dales before us. We rested that night with glad and thankful
hearts that God had put an end to our long and tedious journey
through the greatest sea in the worlds.
[June 30] The next morning the governour came aboard to our
ship, and bade us kindly welcome, and invited me and my wiffe to
come on shoare, and take our lodging in his house, which we did
accordingly. First therefore of the Earth of New England and all the appurte
nances thereof : It is a land of diuers and sundry sorts all about
Masathusets Bay, and at Charles Riuer is as fat blacke Earth as can
be scene any where : and in other places you haue a clay soyle, in
other grauell, in other sandy, as it is all about our Plantation at
Salem, for so our towne is now named, Psal. 76. 2.
The form of the Earth here in the superficies of it is neither too
flat in the plainnesse, nor too high in Hils, but partakes of both in
mediocritic, and fit for Pasture, or for Plow or Meddow Ground, as
men please to employ it : though all the Countrey be as it were a
thicke Wood for the generall, yet in diuers places there is much
ground cleared by the Indians, and especially about the plantation :
and I am told that about three miles from vs a man may stand on a
little hilly place and see divers thousands of acres of ground as good
as need to be, and not a Tree in the same. It is thought here is
good Clay to make Bricke and Tyles and Earthen Pots as needs to
be. At this instant we are setting a Bricke-kill on worke to make
Brickes and Tyles for the building of our Houses. For Stone, here
is plentie of Slates at the lie of Slate in Masathulets Bay, and Lime
stone, Free-stone, and Smooth-stone, and Iron-stone, and Marble-stone
also in such store, that we have great Rockes of it, and a Harbour
hard by. Our Plantation is from thence called Marble-harbour.
?The ship "George", 300 tons, 20 guns, had sailed early in April.

REV. FRANCIS HIGGINSON IN 1629. 11
Of Minerals there hath yet beene but little triall made, yet we are
not without great hope of being furnished in that Soyle.
The fertilitie of the Soyle is to be admired at, as appeareth in the
aboundance of Grasse that groweth euerie where both verie thicke,
verie long, and verie high in diuers places : but it groweth very wild
ly with a great stalke and a broad and ranker blade, because it neuer
had been eaten with Cattle, nor mowed with a sythe, and seldom
trampled on by foot. It is scarce to be believed how our Kine and
Goats, Horses and Hogges doe thriue and prosper here and like well
of this Countrey.
In our Plantation we have already a quart of milke for a penny :
but the aboundant increase of corne proues this Countrey to be a
wonderment. Thirtie, fortie, fiftie, sixtie are ordinarie here: yea
losephs increase in Egypt is out-stript here with vs. our Planters hope
to haue more then a hundred fould this yere : and all this while I am
within compasse ; what will you say of two hundred fould and vpwards?
It is almost incredible what great gain some of our English Planters
haue had by our Indian Come. Credible persons haue assured me, and
the partie himselfe auouching the truth of it to me, that of the setting
of 13 Gallons of Corne he hath had encrease of it 52 Hogsheads,
euerie Hogshead holding seuen Bushels of London measure, and euerie
Bushell was by him sold and trusted to the Indians for so much
Beauer as was worth 18 shillings ; and so of this 13 Gallons of Come
which was worth 6 shillings 8 pence, he made about 327 pounds of
it the yeere following, as by reckoning will appeare : where you may
see how God blesseth husbandry in this land. There is not such great
and beautifull eares of Come I suppose any where else to be found
but in this Countrey : being also of varietie of colours, as red, blew
and yellow, &c. and of one Corne there springeth four or fiue hun
dred. I haue sent you many Eares of diuers colours that you might
see the truth of it.
Little Children here by setting of Corne may eame much more
then their owne maintenance.
They haue tryed our English Come at new Plimouth plantation, so
that all our seuerall Graines will grow here verie well, and haue a
fitting Soyle for their nature.

12 REV. FRANCIS HIGGINSON IN 1629.
Our Gouernor hath store of greene Pease growing in his Garden
as good as euer I eat in England. . . .
Excellent Vines are here vp and doune in the woods. Our Gouer-
nour hath already planted a Vineyard with great hope of increase.
********
When we came first to Nehum kek, we found about halfe a score
Houses, and a faire House newly built for the Gouernor, we found
also aboundance of Come planted by them, very good and well like-
ing. And we brought with vs about two hundred Passengers and
Planters more, which by common consent of the old Planters were
all combined together into one Body Politicke, vnder the same Gouer
nor. There are in all of vs both old and new Planters about three hun
dred, whereof two hundred of them are setled at Nehum kek, now
called Salem : and the rest haue Planted themselues at Masathulets
Bay, beginning to build a Towne there which wee doe call Cherton,
or Charles Towne.
We that are setled at Salem make what hast we can to build
Houses, so that within a short time we shall haue a faire Towne.
We haue great Ordnance, wherewith we doubt not but wee shall
fortifie our selues in a short time to keepe out a potent Aduersarie.
But that which is our greatest comfort, and meanes of defence aboue
all other, is, that we haue here the true ReUgion and holy Ordinances
of Almightie God taught amongst vs : Thankes be to God, we haue
here plenty of Preaching, and diligent Catechizing, with strickt and
careful! exercise, and good and commendable orders to bring our
People into a Christian conuersation with whom wee haue to doe
withall. And thus wee doubt not but God will be with vs, and if
God be with us, who can be against us?

GOVERNOR THOMAS DUDLEY IN 1631.
GOVERNOR Dudley was one of the five undertakers of the settle
ment of the Massachusetts Bay and came over with the Win
throp emigration in 1630. He previously had been steward
for nine or ten years in the-household of the Countess of Lincoln. His
"Letter to the Countess of Lincoln," here abstracted, was written in
March, 1631 and first printed in 1696 with other papers in a book
entitled : — Massachusetts : or. The First Planters of New England. The
End and Manner of their Coming thither, and Abode there, Boston, 1696.
Vppon the river of Mistick is seated Saggamore John, and vppon
the river of Sawgus Sagamore James his brother, both soe named by
the EngUsh. The elder brother John is an handsome young [one
line missing] conversant with us affecting English apparell and howses
and speaking well of our God. His brother James is of a farr worse
disposition, yet repaireth often to us. Both theis brothers command
not above 30 or 40 men for aught I can learne. Neer to Salem dwell
eth two or three families, subiect to the Saggamore of Agawam whose
name hee tould mee, but I have forgotten it. This Sagamore hath
but few subjects, and them and himselfe tributary to Sagamore James,
haveing beene before the last yeare (in James his minority) tributary
to Chicka Talbott. Vppon the river Merrimack is seated Sagamore
Passaconaway haveing under his command 4 or 500 men, being es
teemed by his countrymen a false fellow, and by us a wich.
(13)

WILLIAM WOOD IN 1633.
THE "New Englands Prospect" by William Wood, is the earliest
topographical account of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, so
far as the settlements then extended. It also has a full de
scription of its fauna and flora, and of the natives. He arrived in the
Colony in 1629 and remained here four years residing at Lynn. He
may have come a second time in 1635 and represented Lynn in the
General Court in 1637, the next year removing to Sandwich where he
is said to have died in 1639. His book was entered in the Stationer's
Register, "7 Julii, 1634," and was pubUshed under the following title:
New Englands Prospect. A true, lively, and experimentall description of
that part of America, commonly called New England . . . By William
Wood, London, 1634.
The next plantation is Saugus, sixe miles North-east from Winnesi-
met : This Towne is pleasant for situation, seated at the bottome of
a Bay, which is made on the one side with surrounding shore, and on
the other side with a long sandy Beach. This sandy Beach is two
miles long at the end, whereon is a necke of land called Nahant: It
is six miles in circumference ; well woodded with Oakes, Pines, and
Cedars : It is beside well watered, having beside the fresh Springs,
a great Pond in the middle ; before which is a spacious Marsh. In
this necke is store of good ground, fit for the plow ; but for the pres
ent it is onely used for to put young Cattle in, and weather-goates,
and Swine, to secure them frora the Woolues : a few posts and rayles
from the low water-markes to the shore, keeping out thee Woolves,
and keepes in the Cattle. One Blacke WiUiam, an Indian Duke, out
of his generosity gave this place in generall to this plantation of Sau
gus, so that no other can appropriate it to himselfe.
Upon the South-side of the sandy Beach the Sea beateth, which is
a true prognostication, to presage stormes and foule weather, and
the breaking up of the Frost : For when a storme hath beene, or is
likely to be, it will roare like Thunder, being heard sixe miles ; and
after stormes casts up great store of great Clammes, which the Indians
(14)

WILLIAM WOOD IN 1633. 15
taking out of their shels, carry home in baskets. On the North-side
of this Bay is two great Marshes, which are made two by a pleasant
River which runnes betweene them. Northward up this River, goes
great store of Alewives, of which they make good Red Herrings ; in
so much that they have beene at charges to make a wayre, and a
Herringhouse, to dry these Herrings in ; the last yeare were dryed
some 4 or 5 Last for an experiment, which proved very good ; this is
like to prove a great inrichment to the land, (being a staple commo-
ditie in other Countries) for there be such innumerable companies in
every river, that I have scene ten thousand taken in two houres by
two men, without any weire at all, saving a few stones to stop their
passage up the river. There likewise come store of Basse, which the
Indians and English catch with hooke and line, some fifty or three
score at a tide. At the mouth of this river runnes up a great creeke
into that great Marsh, which, is called Rumny Marsh, which is 4 miles
long, and 2 miles broad ; halfe of it being Marsh ground and halfe
upland grasse, without tree or bush : this Marsh is crossed with divers
creekes, wherein lye great store of Geese, and Duckes. There be
convenient ponds for the planting of Duckcoyes. Here is likewise
belonging to this place divers fresh meddowes, which afforded good
grasse and foure spacious ponds like little lakes, wherein is store of
fresh fish : within a mile of the town, out of which runnes a curious
fresh brooke that is seldome frozen by reason of the warmenesse of
the water ; upon this streame is built a water Milne, and up this river
comes Smelts and frost fish much bigger than a Gudgion. For wood
there is no want, there being store of good Oakes, Wallnut, Caedar,
Aspe, Elme ; The ground is very good, in many places without trees,
fit for the plough. In this plantation is more English tiUage, than in
all new England, and Virginia besides ; which proved as well as could
bee expected, the corne being very good especially the Barly, Rye,
and Gates.
The land affordeth the inhabitants as many rarities as any place
else, and the sea more : the Basse continuing from the middle of
Aprill to Michelmas, which stayes not above half that time in the
Bay : besides here is a great deale of Rock-cod and Macrill, insomuch
that shoales of Basse have driven up shoales of Macrill from one end

16 WILLIAM WOOD IN 1633.
of the sandie Beach to the other, which the inhabitants have gathered
up in wheelbarrows. The Bay that lyeth before the Town at a low
Spring-tyde, will be all flatts for two miles together, upon which is
great store of Muscle-banckes, and Clam-bancks, and Lobsters amongst
the rockes and grassie holes. These flatts make it unnavigable
for shippes, yet at high water great Boates, Loiters, and Pinnaces
of 20, and 30 tun, may saile up to the plantation, but theyneede have
a skilful Pilote, because of many dangerous rockes and foaming
breakers, that lye at the mouth of that Bay. The very aspect of the
place is fortification enough to keepe off an unknowne enemie.
yet may it be fortified at a little charge, being but few landing places
there about, and those obscure.
Foure miles Northeast from Saugus lyeth Salem, which stands on
the middle of a necke of land very pleasantly, having a South river
on the one side, and a North river on the other side : upon this necke
where the most of the houses stand is very bad and Sandie ground,
yet for seaven yeares together it hath brought forth exceeding good
corne, by being fished* but every third yeare ; in some places is very
good ground, and very good timber and divers springs hard by the
sea side. Here likewise is store of fish, as Basses, Eeles, Lobsters,
Clammes, &c.
Although their land be none of the best, yet beyond those rivers
is a very good soyle, where they have taken farmes, and get their
Hay, and plant their corne ; there they crosse these rivers with small
Cannowes, which are made of whole pine trees, being about two foot
& a half over, and 20 foote long : in these likewise they goe a fowling,
sometimes two leagues to Sea ; there be more Cannowes in this towne
than in all the whole Patent ; every household having a water-house
or two.
This Towne wants an Alewife river, which is a great convenience ;
it hath two good harbours, the one being called Winter, and the other
Summer harbour, which lyeth within Derbies Fort, which place if it
were well fortified, might keepe shippes from landing of forces in
any of those two places. Marvill Head is a place which lyeth 4 miles
full South from Salem, and is a very convenient place for a plantation,
?Fertilized with fish.

WILLLAM WOOD IN 1633. 17
especially for such as will set upon the trade of fishing. There was
made here a ships loading of fish the last yeare, where still stands
the stages, and drying scaffolds ; here be good harbour for boates,
and safe riding for shippes. Agowamme* is nine miles to the North
from Salem, which is one of the most spatious places for a plantation,
being neare the sea, it aboundeth with fish, and flesh of fowles and
beasts, great Meads and Marshes and plaine plowing grounds, many
good rivers and harbours and no rattle snakes. In a word, it is the
best place but one, which is Merrimacke, lying 8 miles beyond it,
where is a river 20 leaugues navigable, all along the river side is fresh
Marshes, in some places 3 miles broad.
In this river is Sturgeon, Sammon, and Basse, and divers other
kinds of flsh. To conclude, the Countrie hath not that which this
place cannot yeeld. So that these two places may containe twice as
many people as are yet in New England : there being as yet scarce
any inhabitants in these two spacious places. Three miles beyond
the river Merrimacke is the outside of our Patent for the Massachu
setts Bay. These be all the Townes that were begun, when I came
for England, which was the 15 of August 1633.
?Settled in 1633 as the town of Ipswich.

THOMAS LECHFORD IN 1641.
THOMAS Lechford was a lawyer who came over in 1638. But
lawyers were not wanted in the Colony and he could barely
earn a living for his family, so in August, 1641, he returned
to England and wrote his book which he published the following
year. It is full of information relating to the manners and customs
in the Colony, and was pubUshed under the following title : Plain
Dealing: or, Nevves for New-England. ... By Thomas Lechford of
Clements Inne, in the County of Middlesex, Gent. London, 1642.
The publique worship is in as faire a meeting house as they can pro
vide, wherein, in most places, they have beene at great charges.
Every Sabbath or Lords day, they come together at Boston, by wring
ing of a beU, about nine of the clock or before. The Pastor begins
with solemn prayer continuing about a quarter of an houre. The
Teacher then readeth and expoundeth a Chapter ; Then a Psalme is
sung, which ever one of the ruling Elders dictates. After that the
Pastor preacheth a Sermon, and sometimes ex tempore exhorts. Then
the Teacher concludes with prayer and a blessing. . . . About two
in the after-noone, they repaire to the meeting-house againe : and
then the Pastor begins, as before noone, and a Psalme being sung,
the Teacher makes a Sermon. He wafe wont, when I came first, to
reade and expound a Chapter also before his Sermon in the afternoon.
After and before his Sermon, he prayeth.
After that ensues Baptisme, if there be any, . . . Which ended,
follows the contribution, one of the Deacons saying. Brethren of the
congregation, now there is time left for contribution, where fore as
God hath prospered you, so freely offer. Upon some extraordinary
occasions, as building and repairing of Churches or meeting-houses,
or other necessities, the Ministers presse a liberall contribution with
effectual! exhortations out of Scripture. The magistrates and chiefe
Gentlemen first, and then the Elders, and all the congregation of men,
and most of them that are not of the Church, all single persons, widows,
and women in absence of their husbands, come up one after another
(18)

THOMAS LECHFORD IN 1641. 19
one way, and bring their offerings to the Deacon at his seate, and
put it into a box of wood for the purpose, if it bee money or papers ;
if it be any other chattle, they set it or lay it downe before the Dea
cons, and so passe another way to theire seats againe. This contri
bution is of money, or papers, promising so much money : I have
seene a faire gilt cup with a cover, offered there by one, which is still
used at the Communion. . . .
But in Salem Church, those onely that are of the Church, offer in
publique ; the rest are required to give to the Ministerie, by collection,
at their houses. At some other places they make a rate upon every
man, as well within, as not of the Church, residing with them, to
wards the Churches occasions ; . . .
These are the Ministers of the Bay, ... At Lynne, master Whiting
Pastor, master Cobbet Teacher : At Salem, master Peter Pastor, mas
ter Norris Teacher, and his Sonne a Schoole-raaster : At Ipswich,
raaster Rogers Pastor, master Norton Teacher, and master Nathaniel
Ward, and his Sonne, and one Master Knight, out of employment :
At Rowley, Master Ezek. Rogers Pastor, Master Aft7fer: At Newberry,
Master Noyse Pastor, Master Parker Teacher : He is sonne of Master
Robert Parker, sometime of Wilton, in the County of Wiltes, deceased,
who in his life time writ that mis-learned and mistaken Book De Pol-
iteia Eccleseastica. . . .
The Lady Moody lives at Lynne, but is of Salem Church, shee is
(good Lady) almost undone by buying master Humphries farme,
Swampscot, which cost her nine, or eleven hundred pounds. . . .
... A Church as gathered for that Island [Long Island, N. Y.]
at Lynne, in the Bay, whence some, by reason of straitnesse, did re
raove to the said Island ; and one master Simonds, heretofore a servant
unto a good gentlewoman whom I know, was one of the first Founders.
Master Peter of Salem was at the gathering, and told me the said
master Henry Simonds made a very cleare confession. . . .
And at Cape Anne, where fishing is set forward, and some stages
builded, there one master Rashley is Chaplain : for it is f arre off frora
any Church : Rashly is admitted of Boston Church, but the place ly
eth next Salem, and not very far further from Ipswich.

EDWARD JOHNSON IN 1652.
EDWARD Johnson was the town clerk of Woburn where he died
in 1672 aged 73 years. His book describes what took place in
the Colony under his observation and undoubtedly he had visit
ed the various towns of which he gives an account. The book is sup
posed to have been written a year or two before 1652 and the London
publisher may have supplied its title page : The Wonder-Working
Providence of Sion's Saviour in New England: A History of New
England from the English Planting in 1628, until the yeere 1652. . . .
London, 1654.
Of the Sixth Church of Christ, gathered at Linn, 1631.
The Sixth Church of Christ was gathered at Linn, betweene Salem
and Charles Towne, her scituation is neere to a River, whose strong
freshet at breaking up of Winter filleth all her Bankes, and with a
furious Torrent ventes it selfe into the Sea ; This Towne is furnished
with Mineralls of divers kinds, especially Iron and Lead, the forme of
it is almost square, onely it takes two large a run into the Land- Ward
(as most Townes do), it is filled with about one hundred Houses for
dwelling ; Here is also an Iron Mill in constant use, but as for Lead
they have tried but little yet. Their meeting-house being on a level!
Land undefended from the cold North west- wind ; And therefore made
with steps descending into the Earth, their streetes are straite and
comly, yet but thin of Houses, the people mostly inclining to Husband
ry, have built many Farmes Remote there, Cattell exceedingly multi
plied, Goates which were in great esteeme at their first comming,
are now almost quite banished, and now Horses, Kine and Sheep are
most in request with them, the first feeder of this flock of Christ was
Mr. Stephen Batchelor, gray and aged.
Of the Ninth Church of Christ, gathered at Ipswich.
This year came over a farther supply of Eminent instruments for
furthering this admirable Worke of his, amongst whom the Reverend
(20)

EDWARD JOHNSON IN 1652. 21
and judicious servant of Christ Mr. Nathaniel Ward, who tooke up
his station at the Towne of Ipswich, where the faithful! servants of
Christ gathered the Ninth Church of his. This Towne is scituated on
a faire and delightful! River, whose first rise or spring begins about
five and twenty Miles farther up in the Countrey, issuing forth a very
pleasant pond. But soone after it betakes its course through a most
hideous swamp of large extent, even for many Miles, being a great
Harbour for Beares ; after its comming forth this place, it groweth
larger by the income of many small Rivers, and issues forth in the Sea,
due East over against the Island of Sholes, a great place for fishing for
our English Nation. The peopling of this Towne is by men of good
ranke and quality, many of them having the yearly Revenue of large
Lands in England before they came to this Wildemesse, but their
Estates being imployed for Christ, and left in banke, as you have
formerly heard, they are well content till Christ shall be pleased to
restore it againe to them or theirs, which in all reason should be out
of the Prelates Lands in England. Let all those, whora it concernes
(to judge) consider it well, and do Justice herein.
This Towne lies in the Saggamooreship, or Earldome of Agawam,
now by our English Nation called Essex. It is a very good Haven
Towne, yet a little barr'd up at the Mouth of the River, some Mar-
chants here are, (but Boston, being the chiefest place of resort of
Shipping, carries away all the Trade) they have very good Land for
Husbandry, where Rocks hinder not the course of the Plow ; the Lord
hath been pleased to increase them in Corne and Cattell of late ;
Insomuch that they have many hundred quarters to spare yearly, and
feed, at the latter end of Summer, the Towne of Boston with good
Beefe ; their Houses are many of them very faire built with pleasant
Gardens and Orchards, consisting of about one hundred and forty
Families. Their meeting-house is a very good prospect to a great
part of the Towne, and beautifully built. The Church of Christ here
consists of about one hundred and sixty soules, being exact in their
conversation, and free from the Epidemicall Disease of all Reforming
Churches, which under Christ is procured by their pious Leamed and
Orthodox Ministery, as in due place (God willing) shall be declared,
in the meane time, look on the following Meeters concerning that
Souldier of Christ Master Nathaniel Ward.

22 edward johnson in 1652.
Of the Church of Christ gathered at Newberry.
In the latter end of this yeare, two sincere servants of Christ, in-
abled by him with gifts to declare his minde unto his people, came
over this broad Ocean, and began to build the Tenth Church of Christ
at a Towne called Newberry, their names being Mr. James Noise, and
Mr. Thomas Parker, somewhat differing from all the former, and af
ter mentioned Churches in the preheminence of their Presbytery, and
it were to be wished that all persons, who have had any hand in those
hot contentions which have fallen out since about Presbyterian and
Independent Govemment in Churches, would have looked on this Ex
ample, comparing it with the Word of God, and assuredly it would
have stayed (all the godly at lest) of either part from such unworthy
expressions as have passed to the grief of many of Gods people; And
I doubt not but this History will take of that unjust accusation, and
slanderous imputation of the rise of that floud of errors and false
Doctrines sprung up of late, as flowing from the Independent or rather
congregational! Church. But to foUow on, this Town is scituate about
twelve miles from Ipswitch, neere upon the wide venting streames of
Merrimeck River, whose whole strong current is such, that it hath
forced its passage through the mighty Rocks, which causeth some
sudden falls, and hinders Shipping from having any accesse far into
the Land, her bankes are in many places stored with Oken Timber
of all sorts, of which, that which they commonly call'd white Oke,
is not inferious to our English Timber ; in this River lie some few Is
lands of fertiU Land, this Towne is stored with Meddow and upland,
which hath caused some Gentlemen, (who brought over good Estates,
and finding then no better way to improve them) to set upon hus
bandry, amongst whom that Religious and sincere hearted servant
of Christ Mr. Richard Dummer, sometime a Magistrate in this little
Common-wealth hathholpen on this Town, their houses are built very
scattering, which hath caused some contending about removal! of
their place for Sabbath-AssembUes, their Cattell are about foure hun
dred head, with store of Come-land in tillage, it consists of about sev
enty Families, the soules in Church fellowship are about an hundred,
the teaching Elders of this Congregation have carried it very lovingly
toward their people, permitting of them to assist in admitting of per-

EDWARD JOHNSON IN 1652. 23
sons into Church-society, and in Church -censures, so long as they Act
regularly, but in case of their male-administration, they assume the
power wholly to themselves, their godly life and conversation hath
hitherto been very amiable, and their paines and care over their flock
not inferiour to many others, and being bound together in a more
stricter band of love then ordinary with promise to spend their dayes
together. This yeare the reverend and judicious M. Jos. G/ow^- undertook this
long voyage, being able both in person and estate for the work he
provided, for further compleating the Colonies in Church and Com
monwealth-work, a Printer, which hath been very useful! in many
respects ; the Lord seeing it meet that this reverend and holy servant
of his should fall short of the shores of New England; but yet at this
time he brought over the zealous affected and judicious servant of
his. Master Ezekiel Rogers, who with a holy and humble people, made
his progress to the North-Eastward, and erected a Towne about 6
miles from Ipswich, called Rowly, where wanting room, they purchased
some addition of the Town of Newberry; yet had they a large length
of land, onely for the neere conveniency to the Towne of Ipswich, by
the which meanes they partake of the continued Lectures of either
Towne ; these people being very industrious every way, soone built
many houses, to the number of about threescore families, and were
the first people that set up making of Cloth in this Western World ;
for which end they built a fulling-mill, and caused their little-ones to
be very diUgent in spinning cotton wool!, many of them having been
clothiers in England, till their zeale to promote the Gospel of Christ
caused them to wander ; and therefore they were no lesse industrious,
in gathering into Church society, there being scarce a man among
them, but such as were meet to be living stones in this building, ac
cording to the judgement of man.
The next Town and Church of Christ planted in this Colony, was
between Salem and Ipswitch, Salem the eldest of all the Sisters was
very helpful to this her little Sister, nourishing her up in her own
bosom, till she came of age, being beneficial to her besides, in giving
her a good portion of Land ; this Town is called Wenham, and is very

24 EDWARD JOHNSON IN 1652.
well watered, as most in-land Towns are, the people live altogether
upon husbandry. New England having train'd up great store to this
occupation, they are encreased in cattel, and most of them live very
well, yet are they no great company ; they were some good space of
time there before they gathered into a Church-body, the godly and
reverend Mr. John Fisk went thither with them, at first setting down
as a planter among them, yet withal he became helpful in preaching
the Word unto them, when they were but a few in number, they
afterward call'd him to the office of a Pastor, with whom he now re
mains, labouring in the Word and Doctrine, with great industry.
There was another Towne and Church of Christ erected in the
Mattackuset Govemment, upon the Northern-Cape of the Bay, called
Cape Ann, a place of fishing, being peopled with Fishermen, till the
reverend Mr. Richard Blindman came from a place in Plimouth Plan
tation called Green Harbor, with some few people of his acquaintance,
and setled down with them, named the Town Glocester, and gathered
into a Church, being but a small number, about fifty persons, they
called to office this godly reverend man, whose gifts and abiUties to
handle the word, is not inferiour to many others, labouring much
against the errors of the times, of a sweet, humble, heavenly carriage ;
This Town lying out toward the point of the Cape, the access there
unto by Land become uneasie, which was the chief cause it was not
more populated ; Their fishing trade would be very beneficial, had
they men of estates to mannage it ; yet are they not without other
means of maintenance, having good timber for shipping, and a very
sufficient builder, but that these times of combustion the Seas through
out hath hindered much that work, yet have there been Vessels built
here at this Town of late.
Of THE PLANTING THE EIGHTEENTH CHURCH OF CHRIST AT THE
Towne of Salisbury.
For further perfecting this Wildernesse-worke ; not far from the
Towne of Hampton was erected another Towne, called Salsbury, be
ing brought forth as Twins, sometime contending for eldership; This
being seated upon the broade swift torrent of Merrimeck, a very good-

EDWARD JOHNSON IN 1652. 25
ly River to behold, were it not blockt up with some suddaine falls
through the rocks ; over against this Towne lyeth the Towne of
Newberry, on the Southern side of the River a constant Ferry being
kept between ; for although the River be about half a mile broad,
yet, by reason of an Island that lies in the midst thereof, it is the
better passed in troublesom weather ; the people of this Towne have
of late, placed their dwellings so much distanced the one from the
other, that they are like to divide into two Churches ; the scituation
of this Towne is very pleasant, were the Rivers Navigable farre up,
the branches thereof abound in faire and goodly medowes with good
store of stately Timber upon the uplands in many places, this Towne
is full as fruitfull in her Land, Chattell, and Inhabitants, as her Sister
Hampton ; the people joyned in Church-relation or brotherhood, nere
about the time the other did, and have desired and obtained the rev
erend and graciously godly, M. Thomas Woster to be their Pastor.
The Town of Haverhill was built much about this time, lying high
er up then Salisbury, upon the fair and large river of Merrimeck ; the
people are wholly bent to improve their labour in tilling the'earth,
and keeping of cattel, whose yearly encrease incourages them to
spend their days in those remote parts, the constant penetrating far
ther into this Wilderness, hath caused the, wild and uncouth woods
to be fil'd with frequented wayes, and the large rivers to be over laid
with Bridges passeable, both for horse and foot ; this Town is of a
large extent, supposed to be ten miles in length, there being an over-
weaning desire in most men after Medow land, which hath caused
many towns to grasp more into their hands then they could after
wards possibly hold ; the people are not unmindful also of the chief
end of their coming hither, namely, to be made partakers of the
blessed Ordinances of Christ, that their souls might be refreshed with
the continual income of his rich grace, to which end they gathered into
a Church-body, and called to office the reverend M. Ward, son to
the former named M. Ward of Ipswitch.

SAMUEL MAVERICK IN 1660.
THIS account of New England was found in the Egerton Manu
scripts in the British Museum by Henry F. Waters and was
published in the January, 1885 issue of the New-England
Historical and Genealogical Register. It bears internal evidence that it
was written by Samuel Maverick who records that he arrived in New
England in 1624. He spent some years on Noddle's Island, now East
Boston ; in fact, was living there when Winthrop came ; but being a
zealous Episcopalian he suffered persecution and went to England to
complain to the King. He was appointed in 1664 one of the four
Commissioners for the settlement of difficulties in New England, and
also to "reduce the Dutch in Manhadoes." Being unsuccessful in the
Massachusetts Colony he removed to New York about 1665, where
he probably died. His manuscript is entitled A Briefe Discription of
New England and the several Townes therein, together with the present
Government thereof.
Salisbury New & Old — Seaven Miles to the Southward of Hampton
is Meroraack River, on the mouth of which on the Northside is seat-
ted a Large Toune called Sallisbury, and 3 miles above it a Village
called old Salisbury, where ther is a Saw Mill or two. The Com
modities this Toune affords are Corne, Cattle, Boards and Pipe
Staues. Haverhill Andover — ^Fouer Leagues up this River is Haverell, a pretty
Toune & a few miles higher is the Toune of Andouer both these
Tounes subsist by Husbandry.
Newbury — ^At the mouth on the southside of Meromack and upwards
is seated the Towne of Newbury, the Houses stand at a good distance
each from other a feild and Garden between each house, and so on
both sides the street for 4 miles or therabouts betweene Salisbury and
this Towne, the River is broader then the Thames at Deptford, and
in the Sumer abounds with Sturgeon, Salmon and other ffresh water
fish. Had we the art of takeing and saveing the Sturgeon it would
(26)

SAMUEL MAVERICK IN 1660. 27
prove a very great advantage, the Country affording Vinager, and
other Materialls to do it withaU.
In this Towne and Newbury adjoining are 2 Meeting Houses.
Rowley — Three Miles beyound this Old Newbury is a large and pop
ulous Towne called Rowley about two railes from the Bay of Ago-
wame within land the Inhabitants are raost Yorkshiremen very la
borious people and drive a pretty trade, makeing Cloath and Ruggs
of Cotton Wool, and also Sheeps wooll with which in few yeares the
Countrey will abound not only to supply theraselves but also to send
abroad. This Towne aboundeth with Come, and Cattle, and have a
great number of Sheep.
Ipswich — ^Three Miles beyond Rowley lyeth Ipswich at the head of
Agawame River, as farr up as Vessells cane come. It hath many In
habitants, and there farmes lye farr abroad, sorae of them severall
miles from the Towne. So also they do about other Townes.
Wenham — ^Six Miles frora this Towne lyeth a Towne called Wen-
hara seated about a great Lake or Pond which abounds with all man
ner of ffresh ffish, and such comodities as other places have it af
fordeth. Gloucester — Between these two Townes there runes out into the
Sea that noated head land called Cape Ann f ower miles within the
outermost head. There is a Passage cutt through a Marsh between
Cape Ann Harbour & Manisqwanne Harbour where stands the Towne
called Glocester very comodious for building of shipping and ffishing.
Manchester — Four miles Westward from Glocester, lyeth on the
Sea side a small Towne called Manchester, there is a Sawmill and
aboundance of Timber.
Mackrell & Basse Cove — ^About six miles from this Towne lyeth by
the Sea side a Village Called Mackarell Coue, and a mile or 2 aboue
on a Branch of Salem River lyeth another Village called Basse Coue.
These two have Joyned and built a Church, which stands between
them both ower ag^t Salem.
Salem — On the South side of Salem River stands on a peninsula the
Towne of Salem, setled some yeares by a few people bef or the Patent
of the Massachusits was granted. It is very commodious for fishing,
and many Vessells have been built there and (except Boston) it hath
as rauch Trade as any place in New England both inland and abroad.

28 SAMUEL MAVERICK IN 1660.
Marblehead or Foy — Two miles below this Towne on the Southside
of the Harbor by the sea side lyeth Marblehead or ffoy the greatest
Towne for ffishing in New England.
Lynne — Five miles Westward lyeth the Towne of Lynne along by
the sea side, and two miles abojie it within the bounds of it are the
greatest Iron works erected for the most part at the charge of some
Merchants, and Gentlmen here resideing and cost them about 14000£,
who were as it is conceived about six yeares since Injuriously outted
of them to the great prejudice of the Country and Owners.

JOHN JOSSELYN IN 1671.
JOHN Josselyn, Gent, arrived in Boston in 1638 and was a guest
of Samuel Maverick at Noddle's Island. He then went to Scar
borough, Maine, and stayed with his brother Henry until the end
of 1639 when he went home. In 1663 he came again and remained
in New England until December, 1671 when he returned to England
and the following year published his valuable book New England's
Rarities which gives an account of the flora and fauna of the country.
In 1674 appeared his description of New England published under
the following title : An Account oftwo Voyages to New England, Where
in you have the setting out of a Ship, with the charges; The prices of all
necessaries for furnishing a Planter & his Family at his first coming; A
Description of the Country, Natives and Creatures; The Goverment
ofthe Countrey as it is now possessed by the English, etc. . . . By John
Josselyn, Gent. Lond. 1674.
Without PuUin-point, six miles North-east from Winnisimet is Caw-
gust, or Sagust, or Saugut, now called Linn, situated at the bottora
of a Bay near a River, which upon the breaking up of winter with a
furious Torrent vents it self into the Sea, the Town consists of raore
than one hundred dwelling-houses, their church being built on a level
undefended from the North-west wind is made with steps descending
into the Earth, their streets are straight and but thin of houses, the
people most husbandmen.

JOHN JOSSELYN IN 1671. 29
At the end of the Sandy beach is a neck of land called Nahant, it
is six railes in circumference. Black William an Indian Duke out of
his generosity gave this to the English. At the mouth of the River
runs a great Creek into a great marsh called Rumney-raarsh, which
is four railes long and a mile broad, this Town hath the benefit of
minerals of divers kinds. Iron, Lead, one Iron mill, store of Cattle,
Arable land and meadow.
To the North-ward of Linn is Marvil or Marblehead, a small Har
bour, the shore rockie, upon which the Town is built, consisting of a
few scattered houses ; here they have stages for fishermen. Orchards,
and Gardens, half a mile within land good pastures and Arable land.
Four miles North of Marble-head is situated New-Salem (whose
longitude is 315 degrees, and latitude 42 degrees 35 minutes) upon a
plain, having a River on the South, and another on the North, it hath
two Harbours, Winter Harbour and Sumraer Harbour which lyeth
within Darbies fort, they have store of Meadow and Arable ; in this
Town are some very rich Merchants.
Upon the Northern Cape of the Massachusetts, that is Cape-Ann,
a place of fishing is situated, the Town of Glocester where the Mass
achusetts Colony first set down, but Salem was the first Town built in
that Colony, here is a Harbour for Ships.
To the North-ward of Cape Ann is Wonasquara, a dangerous place
to sail by in storraie weather, by reason of the many Rocks and foam
ing breakers. ,
The next Town that presents itself to view is Ipswich situated by
a fair River, whose first rise is from a Lake or Pond twenty mile up,
betaking its course through a hideous Swamp for many miles, a Har
bour for Bears, it issueth forth into a large Bay, (where they fish for
Whales) due East over against the Islands of Sholes a great place of
fishing, the mouth of that River is barr'd ; it is a good haven-town,
their meeting-house or Church is beautifully built, store of Orchards
and Gardens, land for husbandry and Cattle.
Wenham is an inland Town very well watered, lying between
Salem and Ipswich, consisteth most of men of judgraent and experi
ence in re rustica, well stored with Cattle. At the first rise of Ipswich
River in the highest part of the land near the head springs of many

30 JOHN JOSSELYN IN 1671.
considerable Rivers; Shashin one of the most considerable branches
of Merriraach River, and also at the rise of Mistick-River, and ponds
full of pleasant springs, is situated Woobum an inland-Town four
miles square beginning at the end of Charles-Town bounds.
Six miles from Ipswich North-east is Rowley, most of the Inhabi
tants have been Clothiers.
Nine miles from Salem to the North is Agowamine, the best and
spaciousest place for a plantation, being twenty leagues to the North
ward of New-Plimouth.
Beyond Agowamin is situated Hampton near the Sea-coasts not far
from Merriraach-River, this Town is like a Flower-deluce, having two
streets of houses wheeling off from the main body thereof, they have
great stores of salt Marshes and Cattle, the land is fertil, but full of
Swamps and Rocks.
Eight miles beyond Agowamin runneth the delightful River Merri
raach or Morrumach, it is navigable for twenty miles and well stored
with fish, upon the banks grow stately Oaks, excellent Ship timber,
not inferiour to our English.
On the South-side of Merriraach-River, twelve miles from Ipswich,
and near upon the wide venting streams thereof is situated Newberrie,
the houses are scattering, well stored with meadow, upland, and Ar
able, and about four hundred head of Cattle.
Over against Newberrie lyes the Town of Salisbury, where a con
stant Ferry is kept, the River being here half a mile broad, the Town
scatteringly built.
Hard upon the River of Shashin where Merrimach receives this
and the other branch into its body, is seated Andover, stored with
land and Cattle.
Beyond this Town by the branch of Merriraach-River called Sha
shin, lyeth Haverhill, a Town of large extent about ten railes in length,
the inhabitants Husbandraen, this Town is not far from Salisbury.

In September [1663] following my Arrivage in the Massachusets
about the twelfth hour of the eight day, I shipt my self and goods

JOHN JOSSELYN IN 1671. 31
in a Bark bound to the Eastward, . . . About nine of the clock at
night we came to Salem and lay aboard all night.
The Ninth day we went ashore to view the Town which is a mile
long, and lay that night at a Merchants house.
The Tenth day we came from Salem about twelve of the clock
back to Marble-head; here we went ashore and recreated our selves
with Musick and a cup of Sack and saw the Town, about ten at night
we returned to our Bark and lay aboard.
The Eleventh being Saturday, and the wind contrary, we came to
Charles-town again, about twelve of the clock we took store of
Mackarel.

JOHN DUNTON IN 1686.
r[IS young bookseller from London came to New England in
1686 to collect a debt of five hundred pounds and incidentally
to sell a considerable shipment of books that he had brought
with him. Soon after arriving in Boston he opened a bookshop, and
there he remained for five months during which time he indulged
in "rambles" to nearby towns, Ipswich being the most distant. After
returning to London, to his trade of bookselling he added that of
publisher and shortly began to write books and pamphlets in great
number. His Letters from New England were written some years after his
visit to Boston, probably about the year 1700, and must not be con
sidered first-hand descriptions written upon the spot. Undoubtedly
he visited the several towns that he describes and he also in all prob
ability met the men and women who are characterized, but it has been
demonstrated* that his descriptions are largely borrowed from Josselyn
and Roger Williams and his pictures of New England types are height
ened by liberal extracts from the English authors of his time. His
account is readable, however, and in the raain may be accepted as
approximating a picture of the Colony at the tirae of his visit.
?Chester N. Greenough in Publications of tke Colonial Society of Massachusetts,
Vol. 14, pp. 213-257.

32 JOHN DUNTON IN 1686.
My Fifth Ramble from Boston was to a Town now call'd Lin, but
formerly by the Indians, Cawgust, Sawust, Saugut : To this Town
three or four of my Acquaintance took a Ramble with me, for the
day was so inviting, that none that had any leisure to go abroad,
wou'd stay at home : They were before-hand determin'd to go abroad,
so that I didn't reckon my self much beholden to 'em for their Com
pany, only they gave me leave to Chuse the place, and I pitch'd up
on Lin, being (as I before told you) still for New Discoveries. . . .
We all agreed to this motion, and in a little Time came to Lin ; which
is a Town situated at the Bottom of a Bay without PuUin-Point, six
miles North-East from Winnisimet, near a River, which upon the
breaking up of Winter vents it self with a furious Torrent into the
Sea : The Town consists of more than an hundred dwelling Houses,
their meeting-house being built upon a level, and defended from the
North- West Wind, and is made with steps descending to it. Tho it
be none of the flrst-rate Towns in this Countrey, yet there are many
others that are inferiour to it.
Neither my self nor any of my Friends with me had any acquaint
ance there ; so we went to a Publick House, where we met with good
Accommodations : And our Host wou'd needs be acquainted with
us whether we wou'd or no ; he was a bold forward sort of a man,
and wou'd thrust himself into our Company, and take up all the Dis
course too, which was for the most part of his own good Qualities,
Knowledge, and Understanding ; valuing himself at such a rate that
he wou'd have made one of the three Dukes of Dunstable ; and yet
wou'd bring Scripture to apologize for his Impertinence, telling us
that a Candle shou'd not be hid under a Bus[hel], and made sensible
that he wou'd not hide his, tho' it was but a Snuff, or at best but a
rush Candle ; and therefore those few good Qualities he had, he was
no Niggard in displaying : Some of the Company affronted him suf
ficiently, but he took no notice on't, for he thought no vice so preju-
dical as Blushing. He din'd with us, without being invited, for he
needed it not ; and his talk at the Table was like Benjamin's Mess,
five times his part to any others ; and tho' we often shifted the Theme,
yet no Argument wou'd shut him out for a Quarreller ; and rather
than be non-plust, wou'd fly to Nonsense for Sanctuary ; For my part

JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 33
I admir'd the address of his humour, and let him alone, for I perceiv'd
he wou'd be sooner dash'd out of anything than Countenance ; and
tho' at first he seem'd very troublesome, I was at last pleas'd with him ;
for I found it was his trade, and that his Words serv'd equally
for all men, and were all equally to no purpose : The best thing in
hira was, that his Troublesomeness made me shake off that Indisposi
tion that had lain upon me all Day, and brought me again to a good
Humour. Having satisfyed the Cravings of our Stomacks with a
good Dinner, and exhilerated our Spirits with some good Liquor, and
being at last wearied with our Landlords Impertinence ; We paid
our Reckoning, and retum'd towards Boston again.
I write to others the Relation of my Rambles, but unto you, my
Dear, I write of Business : And so it happens, that 'tis my Business
here to give you a Relation of my Rambles : For having stock'd the
Town of Boston with my Books ; (some having bought more, I'm
afraid, than they intend to pay for) and having still a Considerable
Quantity left. Several Gentlemen have given me great Encourage
raent, (by their Promises of Assisting me in the Disposal of them) to
send a Venture to Salem, (the next considerable Town to Boston in
New England) and particularly one Mr. Sewel,* who is a Magistrate
in that Town, has given me Assurance of a Kind Reception there.
Besides, I am the more Encourag'd to it, as 'tis in this Town the
generous Mr. Herrick has taken a House ; to whom for his Bottle of
Water at Sea, mention'd in my Letter to Brother Lake, I was so much
beholden : So that upon these considerations being resolv'd to send
a Cargo thither, I thought it wou'd be first convenient to go my self,
and see the Town, and take a Warehouse there, before I sent my Books.
For I design to intrust Palmer as my Factor ; for having trusted
much in the adjacent Towns, (especially at Connecticot) I cann't be
above three Days absent from Boston : And having thus resolved to
Ramble to Salem, it is my Ramble thither, my Reception there, and
the Success thereof, relating to my Books, that I intend shall be the
Subject of this Letter.
I rambled to Salem all alone, (save that by an Intercourse of Souls,
?Major Stephen Sewell, Clerk of Courts and afterwards Register of Deeds.

34 JOHN DUNTON IN 1686.
my Dear, I had your Company) and upon Byard on Ten Toes too,
like a meer Coriat : I shaU say nothing of the several Towns I Ram
bled through to Salem, designing to describe thera in my Ramble to
Ipswich : But it may not perhaps be altogether unprofitable to teU
you how I employ 'd my self, as I rambled along : For tho' I went by
my self, yet I wanted no Company ; for I convers'd with every thing
I met with ; and cou'd in some measure say with one of the Antient
Fathers, I was never less alone than when I was alone. With these and
the like Reflections I entertain'd my self upon the Road, and about Four
of the Clock in the afternoon, I came to Salem ; and found the Town
about a mile long, with many fine Houses in it ; and is reputed the
next town to Boston for trade : The Account, my Dear, I have re
ceived about the Original of this Town, is. That in the year of our
Lord 1628, Mr. John Endicot with a number of English People sat
down by Cape Ann, at that place called afterwards Gloucester, but
their abiding Place was at Salem, where they built a Town in 1629,
and there they gathered a Church, consisting but of 70 Persons ; but
afterwards it increased to 47 Churches in joynt Communion with one
another ; and those Churches were about 7750 Souls : Mr. Endicot
was chosen their first Governour.
The first Person I went to visit in Salem, was Mr. Herrick : How
kindly he receiv'd a poor Traveller, my Dear, whose Life he had sav'd
at Sea, you may Easier guess than I relate. From his House, we went
to take a Glass, and talk over our Sea- Voyage : What we found hard
to suffer, twas easie to recite : Nay, there is a certain kind of Pleasure
in the reflecting upon Dangers that are past. And tho' now it was
several Months since, I found the Deliverances we had then, were
still fresh in his Remembrance. When we were at the Tavern, among
other things, I renew'd my Acknowledgements for his former kind
ness, and drank a kind Remembrance in Wine, to the Bottle of Water
that had sav'd my Life at Sea ; and after that, to Captain Jenner,*
and our Ships Crew.
I have already told you, my Dear, that Travellers take Pleasure in
recounting their past Dangers ; and had you heard how Mr. Herrick
?Dunton came over in the ship Susannah and Thomas, commanded by Captain
Thomas Jenner.

JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 35
was affected with it, I am sure you cou'd have had a great Esteem
for him ; he speaks of you with much Honour and Regard, and I be
lieve we drank your health a dozen times in an hours sitting. From
hence he went with me to take a Ware-house, which I think stands
very conveniently. Having settled that affair, Mr. Herrick wou'd
fain have had me lodg'd with him ; which I believe I shou'd have
accepted, but that Mr. Sewel, the Magistrate of Salem I before men
tion'd, sent me word he shou'd take it very unkindly if I did not make
his House my Quarters : Whereupon, I desir'd Mr. Herricks Excuse,
and lay at Mr. Sewel's who gave me a Reception worthy of himself.
The Entertainment he gave me was truly Noble and Generous, and
my Lodging so Extraordinary both with respect unto the Largeness
of the Room, and Richness of the Furniture, as might have Entertain'd
a King. So free he was, that had I staid a month there, I had been
welcome gratis. To give you his Character ; in brief, my Dear, He
is a Person whose Purse is great, but his Heart greater ; he loves to
be bountiful, yet limits his Bounty by Reason : He knows what is
good, and loves it ; and loves to do it himself for its own sake, and
not for thanks : He is the Mirror of Hospitality, and neither Abraham
nor Lot were ever more kind to strangers. As he is a Magistrate, he
desires to have his Greatness measured by his Goodness ; and his
Care is to live so, as to be an Example to the People. He wishes
there were fewer Laws, so that they were better observ'd ; and for those
that are Mulctuary, he thinks their institution not to be like Briars and
Thorns, to catch every thing they lay hold of, but like Sea-marks to
avoid the Shipwreck of ignorant and unwary Passengers. He thinks
himself then most honourably seated, when he gives Mercy the Up
per hand ; and strives rather to purchase a good Name than Land.
Having slept well in my New Quarters, the next Day I went to pay
a Visit to the Ministers of Salem : (For you know, my Dear, they are
generally the greatest Benefactors to Booksellers ; So that my pay
ing them a Visit, is but in other words to go among my Customers)
who were Mr. Higgins,* an Antient and Grave Minister, in his Sta
ture and Physiognomy very much resembling your Reverend Father.
He is one that knows the Burthen of his caUing, and makes it [his]
?Rev. John Higginson, the minister of the First Church.

36 JOHN DUNTON IN 1686.
business to Feed, and not Fleece his Flock. In his Discourse there is
substance as well as Rhetorick; and he utters more things than
Words : In controversal Divinity, he uses soft words, but hard Ar
guments ; and labours more to shew the Truth of his Cause, than his
Spleen : His sermon is limited by its Method, and not by the hour
glass ; and his Devotion goes along with him out of the pulpit. He
preaches twice on the Lord's Day, and his Conversation is every Days
Exercise. I din'd at his House, and he promises me great Assistance
in my Business, and Speaks of your Father with a World of Honour.
From him, I went to visit Mr. Noyse,* his Assistant, who is a hail,
lusty man, appears to be my hearty Friend, and treated me with very
much respect.
Having made these Visits, the next day I went to Dine with Mr.
Herrick, who gave me a very handsome and genteel Reception, and
treated me with all that was rare in the Countrey, both as to variety
of Fish and Flesh, and Choice of good Wine. In the afternoon he
propos'd to shew rae the Countrey round about Salem ; and the next
morning we were to visit Drinkwater (the Carpenter of the Ship we
came to Boston in) who lives a mile from Salem. Drinkwater was very
glad to see his Two Fellow Travellers, and gave us the welcome of his
House. And so Mr. Herrick and my self came back again to Salem.
The next morning I took my leave of Mr. Sewel, making my Ac
knowledgments to him for all his Favours : Who was pleas'd to tell
me, I shou'd have been more welcome had I made a longer stay : And
renewed his former Promise of giving all the Encouragement he cou'd
to my Venture, when it came thither. I then went to take my leave
of Mr. Herrick also, to whom I esteem my self very much beholden,
for his Generous Treatment and great Civility. And so having spent
four Days in Salem, to my great satisfaction, I retum'd to Boston ;
and having made up a very considerable Cargo, I sent Palmer with
it to Salem : Where he had very good Trading and took Money
apace. But not having my Eye on him, I was told he neglected his
Business and fell to shooting; but quite missed the Mark I aimed at
which was, to have my Books sold.
?Rev. Nicholas Noyes, settled in 1683, a conspicuous figure at the time of the
witchcraft delusion in Salem.

JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 37

My Landlady (Mrs. Wilkins) having a Sister at Ipswich, which she
had not seen a great while, Mrs. Comfort, her Daughter, (a young Gen
tlewoman Equally happy in the Perfections both of her Body and mind,)
had a great desire to see her Aunt, having never been at her House,
nor in that Part of the Countrey ; Whidh Philaret* having likewise
a desire to see, and being never backward to accoraraodate the Fair
Sex, Profers his Service to wait upon her thither, which was readily
accepted by the young Lady, who knew Philaret so well, that she
thought her self safe enough under his Protection. Nor were her
Parents less wiUing to trust her with hira ; and Philaret was as care
ful not to betray his Trust to any Inconvenience. And now. Sister,
all things being ready for our Ramble, I took my Fair one up behind
rae, and rid to the River-side, which tho' it be often and usually cross'd
in a Canoo, yet I rather chose to cross it in a Ferry, having ray Horse
with me : Having cross'd the River, We mounted again, and rid on
our way ; meeting as we went a long with two or three Indians, who
courteously saluted us, with, 'What Chear, Netop?' Netop in the
Indian Language signifies Friend : I retum'd their Salutation, and
pass'd on ; not without observing that there is a vein of Civility and
Gourtesie runs in the Blood of these Wild Indians, both araong thera
selves and towards strangers.
********
This Captain Marshall is a hearty old Gentleman, formerly one of
Oliver's Souldiers, upon which he very much values himself: He
keeps an Inn upon the Road between Boston and Marble-Head : His
House was well-furnished, and we had very good Accomraodation.
I enquir'd of the Captain what meraorable Actions he had been in
under Oliver, and I found I cou'd not have pleas'd him better ; he was
not long in Resolving me of the Civil Wars at his Finger's Ends ;
and if we may believe him, Oliver did hardly anjrthing that was con
siderable without his Assistance ; For his good Service at the Fatal
Battel of Naseby, (which gave such a Tum to the King's affairs, that
he cou'd never after come to a pitch'd Battel,) he was raade a Cap-
*The name Dunton appUed to himself, signifying "a lover of virtue."
tCaptain Thomas Marshall, innkeeper at Lynn.

38 JOHN DUNTON IN 1686.
tain ; from thence he went to Leicester, and besieg'd that ; then went
to York, and afterwards to Marston-Moor ; and in short. Rambled so
far in his Discourse, that if I wou'd have stay'd as long as he'd have
talk'd, he wou'd have quite spoil'd my Ramble to Plymouth ; and
therefore giving Mrs. Comfort to understand that I begun to be un
easie, she very seasonably came into my Relief, and the Captain was
forc'd to leave a great part of his Noble Exploits unrelated. My
Fellow-Traveller and I, having taken our leave of the Captain, quick
ly mounted, and went on our Ramble towards Marble-Head.
This Discourse had brought us to Marvail, or Marble-Head, a smaU
Town or Harbour, the Shore Rocky, upon which the Town is built,
consisting of a few scattered Houses, where they have Stages for
Fishermen, Orchards and Gardens ; half a mile within Land, there
is good Pastures, and Arable Land, very good. Having left Marble-
Head behind us, we Rambled towards New Salem, four miles North
of Marble-Head, and directly in our way to Ipswich ; but having given
a large Account of this Place, and of my Ramble thither, and staying
there for some time, in a Letter to my Dearest Iris, which you may
see when you please, I shall say nothing further of it here, but that
having call'd at a Friends House, and refresh'd our Selves, we Ram
bled on towards Wenham.
I had just concluded my Discourse, as we came to Wenham, which
is an Inland Town, very well watered, lying between Salem and Ips
wich, and consisteth most of Men of Judgment ahd Experience in
Country Affairs ; well stored with Cattel. At the first Rise of Ipswich
River, in the highest part of the Land, near the Head, are the Springs
of many Considerable Rivers ; Shashin, one of the most considerable
Branches of Merrimack River ; and also at the rise of Mistick River,
are Ponds full of Pleasant Springs. In this Town of Wenham, lives
one Mr. Geery ;* whose Father is now a Captain in Boston, in so de
licious a Paradice, that of all the Places in the Countrey, I shou'd
have chosen this for the most happy Retirement : His House is neat
and handsome, fitted with all Conveniences proper for the Countrey :
?Rev. Joseph Gerrish, bom in 1650 in Newbury.

JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 39
And does so abound with every thing of his own, that he has no Oc
casion to trouble his Neighbours : The lofty spreading Pines on each
side of his House, are a sufficient Shelter from the Winds ; And the
Warm Sun so Kindly ripens both his Fruits and Flowers, as if the
Spring, the Summer and the Autumn had agreed together to
thrust Winter out of Doors ; He entertain'd us with such pleasant
Fruits, as I must own Old England is a stranger to, and amongst all
its great Varieties, knows nothing so Delicious.
The honest Netop, or Friend Indian, had but just made an End of
his Discourse, as we came to Ipswich : I gave him many thanks for
the Information he had given me, and also for his good Company,
and wou'd have made him drink, but he very thankfully refus'd it :
And so we parted, he going about his Occasions, and I and my Fair
Fellow-Traveller, to Mr. Steward's,* whose Wife was Mrs. Comfort's
own Aunt ; whose Joy to see her Niece at Ipswich, was sufficiently
Express'd by the Noble Reception we met with, and the Treatment
we found there ; which far out-did whate'er we cou'd have Thought :
And tho' my self was but a Stranger to them, yet the Extraordinary
Civility and respect they shew'd me, gave me reason enough to think
I was very Welcome.
It was late when we came thither, and we were both very weary,
which yet wou'd not Excuse us from the Trouble of a very Splendid
Supper, before I was permitted to go to Bed ; which was got ready
in so short a time, as wou'd have made us think, had we not known
the Contrary, that it had been ready Provided against we came. Tho'
our Supper was extraordinary, yet I had so great a desire to go to
Bed, as made it to me a troublesome Piece of Kindness. But this
being happily over, I took my leave of my Fellow-Traveller, and was
conducted to my appartment by Mrs. Stewart herself, who Character
I shan't attempt tonight, being so very weary, but reserve till to
morrow morning : Only I must let you know that my appartment
was so Noble, and the Furniture so suitable to it, that I doubt not
?William Stewart died in Ipswich, Aug. 5, 1693 aged 44 years. He lived in the
ancient house yet standing at the corner of High and Manning streets and now
known as the Caleb Lord house.

40 JOHN DUNTON IN 1686.
but even the King himself has been often-tiraes contented with a
worser Lodging.
Having repos'd my self all Night upon a Bed of Down, (than which
there cou'd be nothing softer but the Arms of Iris,) I slept so very
soundly that the Sun, (who lay not on so soft a Bed as I did) had got
the start of me, and rise before me ; but was so kind however as to
make me one of his first visits, and to give me the Bonjeour ; on which
I straight got up and dress'd my self, having a mind to look about
me and see where I was : And having took a view of ^swich, I found
it to be situated by a fair River, whose first Rise from a Lake or Pond
was twenty miles up, breaking its course thorow a hideous Swamp
for raany miles, a harbour for Bears ; it issueth forth into a large Bay,
(where they fish for Whales,) due East over against the Island of
Sholes, a great place of fishing ;* the mouth of that River is barr'd :
It is a good Haven Town ; their Meeting-House or Church is built
very beautifully : There is store of Orchards and Gardens about it,
and good Land for Cattel jmd Husbandry.
But I remeraber. Sister, I prorais'd to give you Mrs. Steward's
Character, and if I hadn't, yet Gratitude and Justice wou'd exact it
of me : Her Stature is of a middle size fit for a Woman ; Her Face
is still the magazine of Beauty, whence she may fetch Artillery enough
to wound a Thousand Lovers ; and when she was about 18, perhaps
there never was a Face more sweet and charming : Nor cou'd it well
be otherwise, since now at 33, all you call sweet and ravishing, is in
her face ; which 'tis as great a Pleasure to behold, as a perpetual
Sunshine, without any Clouds at all ; and yet all this sweetness is
joyn'd with such attractive vertue as draws aU to a certain distance,
and there detains them with reverence and admiration, none ever
daring to approach her nigher, or having power to go further off.
She's so obliging, courteous and civil, as if those qualities were only
born with her, and rested in her Bosom as their Center. Her Speech
and her Behaviour is so gentle, sweet, and affable, that whatsoever
Men may talk of Magic, there is none Charms but she. So good a
Wife she is, she fraraes her Nature to her Husband's; the Hiacinth
?The previous fifty -three words are taken almost verbatim from Edward John
son's Wonder Working Providence, London, 1654.

JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 41
follows not the Sun more willingly, than she her Husbands pleasure.
Her Household is her Charge ; her care to that, makes her but seldom
a Non-resident. Her Pride is to be Neat and Cleanly, and her Thrift
not to be Prodigal. And, to conclude, is both Wise and Religious,
which makes her all that I have said before.
In the next place. Sister, I suppose yourself will think it reasonable,
that unto Mrs. Stewards, I shou'd add her Husband's Character ;
whose Worth and Goodness do weU merit it : As to his Stature 'tis
inclining to Tall ; and as to his Aspect, if all the Lineaments of a
Sincere and honest-hearted Man were lost out of the World, they
might be all retrievd, by looking on his Face : He's one whose
Bounty is limited by Reason, not by Ostentation ; and to make it last,
he deals it discreetly ; as we Sowe our Land not by the Sack, but by
the handful : He is so sincere and upright, that his word and his
meaning never shake hands and part, but always go together : His
Mind is always so serene, that Thunder does but rock him a sleep,
which breaks other Mens slumbers. His Thoughts have an Aim as
High as Heaven, tho' their Residence be in the Valley of an humble
Heart. He is not much given to talk, tho' he knows how to do it as
well as any Man : He loves his Friend, and will do any thing for him,
except it be to wink at his faults, of which he will be always a severe
Reprover : He is so good a Husband, that he is worthy of the Wife,
that he Enjoys, and wou'd even make a bad Wife good by his Example.
Ipswich, my Sister, is a Country Town, not very large, and when
a Stranger arrives there, 'tis quickly known to every one : It is no
wonder then that the next day after our Arrival, the News of it was
carry'd to Mr. Hubbald,* the Minister of the Town, who hearing that
I was the Person that had brought over so great a venture of Learn
ing, did me the Honour to make me a visit at Mr. Steward's, where
I lay, and afterwards kindly invited me and my Fellow Traveller to
his own House, where he was pleas'd to give us a very handsome
Entertainment. His writing of the History of Indian Warrs, shews
him to be a Person of good Parts and Understanding : He is a sober,
grave, and weU accomplished Man ; a good Preacher (as all the Town
affirm, for I didn't hear him) and one that lives according to his
Preaching. ?Rev. William Hubbard, minister and historian.

42 JOHN DUNTON IN 1686.

The next day I was for another Ramble, in which Mr. Steward was
pleas'd to accompany me, (but I left Mrs. Comfort with her Aunt)
and the place we went to, was a Town call'd Rowley, lying six miles
North-East from Ipswich, where most of the Inhabitants had been
Clothiers : But there was that Day a great Game of Foot-Ball to be
play'd, which was the occasion of our going thither ; There was an
other Town that play'd against them, as is sometimes common in
England ; but they play'd with their bare feet, which I thought was
very odd ; but it was upon a broad Sandy Shoar, free from Stones,
which made it more easy. Neither were they so apt to trip up one
anothers heels and quarrel, as I have seen 'em in England. . . . Af
ter their Sport was over we retum'd home. . . .
From whence we were not long a going to his House, where Mrs.
Steward had provided us a good Supper, and gave us a hearty welcome
home. You know my Rambling Humour, Sister, and that I am still for
new Discoveries, which made me the next morning Enquire of Mr.
Steward's Servants what other Towns there lay near Ipswich : (for I
had a months mind that Day to make another Ramble) and they ac
quainted me that about Seven miles off there was the Town of Glou-
sester, and that their Mistress had a Kinswoman that liv'd there, and
therefore they believ'd she wou'd be very ready to go along with me
thither. I was very well pleas'd with this Information, and presently
went in and told Mrs. Steward, that I was for another Ramble that
Day, being for seeing as much of the Countrey as I cou'd : She ask'd
me whether I design'd to Ramble ? I told her I design'd for Glou
cester : 'O,' says she strziight, T have a Kinswoman lives there, I
want to see, and therefore Cousin Comfort and my self will go a long
with you.' I readily accepted of her Kind offer, it being all I wanted ;
but Mr. Steward, by reason of some Business he had before appointed
on that Day, cou'd not go with us, but sent his Chiefest Man, with
one of his best Horses, to wait upon his Wife.
The Way we rid was very pleasant ; for there the lofty Trees
with their proud Spreading Tops, made a refreshing Shade, and kept
us from the Suns too Officious Kindness. Besides the constant Pros-

JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 43
pect of the Sea on our right hand, brought us such cool refreshing
Breezes thence, as made our Journey extream delightful, tho' the Sun
shin'd very hot : . . .
We were now come to Gloucester, which is a pretty little Town.
Here it was that the Massachusets Colony first set down, tho' Salem
was the first Town built in that Colony. Here is a very fine Harbour
for Ships. Mrs. Steward's kinswoman, who was a very obliging
Country- Widow, receiv'd us very kindly, and made us very welcome.
While Mrs. Steward and Mrs. Comfort were talking with their kins
woman, my self and Mr. Steward's Man took a walk about the Town
and went down to see the Harbour.
... So retuming to the House again, we found Mrs. Steward and
Mrs. Comfort waiting for us to take Horse; which (after taking my
Leave of the Widow, and thanking her for our kind Entertainment)
we quickly did, and came back in very good time to Ipswich, where
Mr. Steward had taken care to have a good Supper ready for us.
The next morning, I was Retuming to Boston, but Mr. Steward
was very solicitous to have me stay that day, and go with him to
Wanasquam,* and Indian Town, where he had some business : I
confess he hit me in the right Vein, for I lov'd Rambling dearly, and
knew not how to deny him ; and therefore was easily perswaded to
go with him. Having refresh'd our selves before we went, by eating
a good Breakfast, we began our Ramble, and had rid almost half the
way to Wanasquam, when on the Road we met an Indian Woman,
with her face all over black'd with soot, having a very sorrowful and
rueful sort of Countenance ; and quickly after, two or three Indian
Men in the same black and sorrowful Condition, that had I been alone,
it wou'd have frightened me. But having Mr. Steward with me, I
was well enough : Indeed they all pass'd by us very civilly, saying
only Ascowequassum, which is in English Good morrow to you.
Mr. Steward ask'd me if I had ever seen any of those blackfac'd
Indians before? I told him No, and ask'd him what the meaning of
it was? He told me, They had had some Relation very lately dead ;
and that the Blacking of their Faces, was equivalent to the Englishes
going into Mouming for their Relations ; and ask'd me whether I had
?Annisquam, near Gloucester?

44 JOHN DUNTON IN 1686.
ever seen an Indian Burial? I told him No, nor English neither, in
New-England, for none had dy'd that I remember'd, smce I came in-
to the Country. ********
But the End of his Story having brought us to the beginning of
Wanasquam, put an End to our Discourse ; It is a very sorry sort of
a Town, but better to come at by Land than by Water: For it is a
dangerous place to sail by, esi)ecially in stormy weather, by reason
of the many Rocks and foaming Breakers all about it. We saw sev
eral other mouming Indians in that Tovm ; and upon Enquiry found
that one of the chief Indians in the Town was lately dead and buried.
There was nothing else remarkable to be seen in the Town, and
therefore as soon as Mr. Steward had done his business, we retum'd
back to Ipswich. And early the next morning, having paid our hearty
and repeated thanks to Mr. Steward and his Channing Wife, for the
Noble Entertainment we had receiv'd from them, my self and Mrs.
Comfort took our leaves, and made the best of our way for Boston,
where we arriv'd according to our Promise, to the great satisfaction
of my good Landlord and his Wife : Mrs. Comfort being no less
pleas'd with the pleasure of her Journey, than I was for her good
Company.

EDWARD WARD IN 1699.
EDWARD Ward was born in Oxfordshire, England, in 1667 and
after visiting Jamaica and New England became a tavemer
in London. His tavern and punch shop was located next door
to Gray's Inn and was known as "The King's Arras." He began to
pubUsh paraphlets in 1691 and at his death in 1731 had produced over
one hundred araong thera being an account of his visit to Boston, a
foUo tract of sixteen pages pubUshed with the following title : — A
Trip to New-Er^land with a character of the Country and People. . . .
London, 1699.
They have a Charter for a Fair at Salem, but it Begins, like Ir^er-
stone Market, half an Hour after Eleven a Clock, and Ends half an
Hour before Twelve : For I never see any thing in it but by great
Accident, and those were Pumkins, which were the chief Fruit that
supported the English at their first settling in these parts. But now
they enjoy plenty of good Provisions, Fish, Flesh and Fowl, and are
become as great Epicures, as ever Din'd at Pontack's ordinary.
Lobsters and Cod-fish are held in such disdain, by reason of their
Plenty, 'tis as Scandalous for a poor Man in Boston to carry one
through the streets, as 'tis for an Alderman in the City of London,
to be seen walking with a Groatsworth of Fresh-Herrings, frora Bill
ings-Gate to his own House.
There were formerly amongst them (as they themselves Report)
abundance of Witches, and indeed I know not, but there may be as
many now, for the men look still as if they were Hag-ridden; and
every Stranger, that comes into the Country, shall find they will Deal
with hira to this Day, as if the Devil were in 'em.
Witchcraft they punish'd with Death, till they had Hang'd the best
People in the Country ; and Convicted the Culprit upon a single Evi
dence : So that any prejudic'd person, who bore Malice against a
neighbour, had an easie method of removing their Adversary. But
since, upon better consideration, they have raitigated the severity of
that unreasonable Law, there has not been one accused of Witchcraft,
in the whole Country. (45)

THOMAS STORY IN 1699 AND 1704.
rlOMAS Story was an itinerant Quaker preacher who came over
from England in 1697 and between that year and 1708 visited
all the colonies from New Hampshire to Carolina. The descrip
tion of his travels and labors in America occupies nearly three hun
dred pages of his "Journal" which is the largest book of travel in
what is now the United States, up to the year 1708. He is particu
larly racy about the laws of Connecticut and Massachusetts. His
book was published underthe following title : — Journal of the Life of
Thomas Story : Containing an Account of . . . his Embracing ihe Prin
ciples of Truth as held by the People called Quakers — His Travels in
America . . . Newcastle upon Tyne, 1747.
On the Second Day [July 1699] we went to Lynn; where, hearing
of a Meeting appointed by our Friend Judadiah Allen, about two
Miles thence, we went to it ; and lodged that night with our Friend
Richard Estis, at Lynn : and had a Meeting the next Day after at
Salem: and, that Night, lodged with our Friend Mathew Estis; and
proceeded next Day to Hampton, . . . The next Day we had a Meet
ing at Salisbury: and there having been a Report, that the minister
of the Place, one Major Pike, and one Joseph Ring (all great Opposers)
intended to be there, it was very great : yet none of them came but
Ring: who did not oppose, but slunk off towards the Conclusion : and
the meeting was held, and concluded in Peace, and the blessed Truth
was over all, ... On the 26th, I went towards Hampton, accom
panied by my kind friend Samuel Collins, of Lynn; and, as we were
near Ipswich, one of his acquaintance, not a Friend, overtook, and in
vited us to his House ; where. Meat being set before us, I was con
cemed in Prayer before we ate, and they were well affected with it.
. . . The next day had a meeting at the House of Joseph Paisl^, in
Haverhill: It was not large, by reason of the Throng of Harvest. . . .
That Aftemoon [May 3, 1704] we went to Lynn with Samuel Col
lins: where we staid that Night and the next Day ; and on the Sev
enth of the Week, the Fishermen being usually more at home on that
(46)

THOMAS STORY IN 1699 AND 1704. 47
Day than any other of the Week-days, we had a Meeting at Marble-
Head ; where there is not a Friend : The Meeting was pretty large,
and the People sober. The Creation of Man, his first State of Inno
cence, his Fall, present State of Nature, and Restoration by Christ
the Second Adam, were Subjects of the Testimony : and the divine
Truth the good Dominion over the People ; who, after the Meeting,
were loving, and behaved rather with awful Respect than light chear-
f ulness, or Familarity : and that Evening we returned to Lynn, . . .
I remained at the House of our Friend Samuel Collins.
On the 7th of the Month, being the Third of the Week, we were
at a marriage at Salem, which had been delayed sometime on purpose ;
but the Day proving very rainy and stormy, the meeting was not so
large as otherwise it might have been ; but several of the People, of
both Sexes, being there, were generally sober, and some broken in
Heart. At Salem I remained until the 9th : and, being the Day of their
Monthly Meeting, it was large ; several of the People being there,
were well satisfied with the Testimony of Truth therein : and Lydia
Norton, Mary Dow, Esther Palmer, and Susannah Freeborn, all living
Ministers, came to that Meeting : The next Day we had a Meeting
at Ipswich, where there were no Friends : It was indifferent large,
several of the People tendered, and generally satisfied : some of them
giving particular Demonstrations of it. ... that Aftemoon we went
forward to Newbury; and. Night coming on, I would have tarried there
till the Morning, but there was no Provender to be had for my Horse^
so that I went over the great River with some Salisbury Friends, who
had been at the Meeting ; and we went together to our Friend Henry
Dow's, and lodged there, though it was in the Time of War, and not
under the Protection of any Garrison. And several Persons having
been killed a little before by the Indians, who were for the French
against the English, I found the People in those Parts under great
Fear and Danger ; and the Weight of their condition and Cirqum-
stances came heavy upon me.
The 11th I rested there ; and, in the Moming, went alone up a Hill,
not far from the House, and stood upon a Stump of a Tree, where I
could see to a Garrison, some Distance of ; and thought, in the mean

48 THOMAS STORY IN 1699 AND 1704.
time, that if any Indians were in Ambush there, I might be a fair
mark for them to shoot at ; upon which I retired from thence and
descended the Hill, and, near the Foot of it, sat down under the side
of a Fence ; where my mind was sensibly filled with divine Goodness,
which staid me there for some time ; and, when I returned, I found
the Friends had been a little thoughtful where I could be, and that I
staid so long ; and when I told them I had been on the Top of the
same Hill, they informed me, that was the Place where the sculking
Indians sometimes came, to spy for Advantages against the People,
especially against the Inhabitants of the Garrison, if they could see
any of them come out any Distance from it, as a Prey unto them who
thirsted for their Blood.
The same Day Henry Dow gave notice in the Neighbourhood of my
being come, of the Meeting to be next Day at the House of Thomas
Nichols, in the upper Part of the Town. It was a tender Meeting,
the minds of the People being low for fear of the Indians, their cruel
Enemies, and by reason of the great Distress many were in otherwise
on that Occasion. It was a dismal Time indeed in those Parts ; for
no man knew, in an ordinary Way, when the Sun set that ever it
would arise upon hira raore ; or, lying down to sleep, but his first
waking might be in Eternity, by a Salutation in the Face with a
Hatchet, or a Bullet from the Gun of a merciless Savage ; who, from
Wrongs received, as they too justly say, from the Professors of Christ
in New-England, are to this Day enraged, as Bears bereaved of their
Cubs, sparing neither age nor sex : Nor are they capable of any In-
treaty, but, on the contrary, by the Examples set them in the Destruc
tion of their Ancestors, by the pretended Massachusets christians,
promising Life and Friendship, they frequently murder their Captives
in cold Blood ; roasting some alive in Times of their Triumph and
Merriment as Objects of their Revenge, Laughter and Scom.
The People in those Parts, at this Time, were generally in Garrisons
in the Night-time ; and some professing Truth also went into the
same with their Guns, and some without them ; But the faithful and
trtie, trusting in the Lord, neither used Gun nor Garrison, Sword,
Buckler, nor Spear ; the Lord alone being their strong Tower, . . .
and that Night I lodged with Thomas Nichols.

THOMAS STORY IN 1699 AND 1704. 49
On the 13th we had a Meeting at Salisbury : where there was a
Garrison in some Part of the Town, (for the People garrisoned any
convenient House, in Town or Country, they thought most proper
for a common Good and safety, as they reckon'd) but I had not Lib
erty in myself to lodge near the Garrison that Night ; but, after
some Dispute with a Townsman, Brother-in-law to a Priest, returned,
late in the Evening, to Henry Dow's, a place of as much seeming
Danger as any, being within Pistol-shot of a great Swamp, and thicket,
¦where Indians formerly inhabited, and there I lodged ; where there was
neither Gun nor Sword, nor any Weapon of war, but Truth, Faith,
the Fear of God, and Love, in a humble and resigned mind ; and there
I rested with consolation.
And here I think fit to remark a particular Passage, viz. The
Mother of Henry Dow's wife, being a Friend of blameless Life, and
living in this same House with them, let in Reasonings against their
continuing in a place of so much apparent Danger, and frequently
urged them to remove into the Town, where the Garrison was, that
they might lodge there in the night for moral Safety, as many others,
and some Friends did ; which her daughter could never be free to do,
believing, that if they should let in any slavish Fear, or distrust in
the Arm and Protection of the Lord, some very hard thing would
befal them ; till at length her mother said to her. That if she could
say she had the mind of the Lord against it, (being a minister, though
young) she would rest satisfied ; but nothing else than that could
balance so rational Fears in so obvious Danger : But the young
Woman, being modest, cautious, and prudent, durst not assume pos
itively to place her Aversion to their Removal so high ; so at length
she and her Husband complied with the mother, and they removed
to the Town, to a House near the Garrison ; where the young Wom
an was constantly troubled with frightful surprizing Fears of the
Indians : though, while at the House by the Swamp, she was free
from it, and quiet.
But the Mother, having left some small Things in the House by
the swamp, was going early in the Morning to fetch them, and, by
some Indians in Ambush near the Town in her way, was killed ; and
the same morning, a young man, a Friend, and Tanner by Trade,

50 THOMAS STORY IN 1699 AND 1704.
going from the Town to his work, with a Gun in his Hand, and an
other with him without any, the Indians shot him who had the Gun,
but hurt not the other ; and when they knew the young man they
had killed was a Friend, they seemed sorry for it, but blamed him for
carrying a Gun : For they knew the Quakers would not fight, nor
do them any Harm ; and therefore, by carrying a Gun, they took him
for an Enemy.
And the Garrison and Neighbourhood, being alarmed by the Guns
of the Indians, some Inhabitants of some few Houses near made such
precipitate Haste thither, that they left a little Boy behind them,
whose Brains the Indians dashed out against a Plough, and made
Prey of as many Goods as they could carry with them.
And, when the Town was alarmed, the young woman concluded
her mother was slain, (but it was not by shot, but a Blow on the
Head) but did not go into the Garrison, but took one of her children
in each Hand, and went with thera into a swarap, or thicket, fuU of
Reeds, near the Place; where aU her tormenting Fear left her, and
she was then greatly comforted and strengthened in the Presence of
the Lord, and confirmed in her thoughts, that they should not have
left their House for her mother's Fears, though reasonable in human
View, seeing that consequence had attended ; after which she retumed
to her House by the Garrison with her children.
The loss of the mother was much lamented by the Son and Daugh
ter, and others ; but, as soon as her body was interred, they went
back with their little children to the same Place by the Swamp ;
where I lodged with them when they gave me this Relation.
On the 14th of the Third raonth, we had a Meeting at an Inn in
Newbury : There were not many Friends there, but probably may be
in due time ; for the Meeting was very large, and several Persons
much broken under the testimony of the Truth. The Meeting con
tinuing long, and the River being between that Place and Salisbury,
I went late that Night with Henry Dow and his Wife, and several
Friends. . . .
That Night [May 28th] I lodged again at Henry Dow's; and on the
29th, I was at another appointed Meeting as Salisbury; which was
not large, but good and comfortable.

THOMAS STORY IN 1699 AND 1704. 51
On the 30th I was at their Week-day meeting 2X Jamaica; which
was pretty large, . . .
On the 1st of the Fourth Month we had a Meeting at Henry Dow's;
which was also comfortable and edifying, and several of the People
much tendered ; But this Meeting also was hurt in the Beginning of
it, by a forward Person, who prayed a long Sermon to the Almighty,
with many Accusations in it against the People and their Ways. . . .
On the 2d, being the Seventh of the Week, we went up to Haverell
from Salisbury; and, the next Day, had a Meeting there; which, be
ing near the Presbyterian Meeting-house, several of them came to us
in the Time between their Forenoon and Afternoon meetings, and
some of them were affected and tendered, and others very sober and
attentive to what was delivered ; who, desired by some of the ruder
sort of their own Profession to leave us, they would not ; and then
the others endeavoured to have thera away by Force ; But the Lord
gave us a good Meeting notwithstanding this Treatment : . . . That
Night I went to Jamaica, and lodged with Thomas Nichols, parting
with some Dover Friends in the Road near that Place.
After this Meeting Jacob Moral of Salisbury informed rae, that he
had been with several Persons in that Town, in order to have a Meet
ing among them, but they generally refused ; the old Stock of Perse
cutors, still ruling there, being much against it ; but the younger
People were, for the most part, for it : And that at last he had gone
to one Major Pike, (an ancient man who had been very contentious,
so that every mans Hand had been against him, and he against every
Man) and desired his Consent that we might have a Meeting in their
Meeting-house, to which the Major assented ; and said also, "That
if we could not have their Meeting-house to meet at once, we should
have his House ;" And accordingly Jacob Moral had given notice of
a Meeting to be there the next Day.
Both Friends and others went to the Place about the Tenth Hour
next morning, and the Major seemed very open and free ; and Seats
being ranged, and many People set down, all of a sudden, and with
out any Provocation, save frora the Evil One in himself, the Major
began to be very turbulent and abusive, saying, "Friends, if I may call
you so, what is your business here? What means all this Concourse

52 THOMAS STORY IN 1699 AND 1704.
of People ?" To which Jacob Moral answered, "We have come here
to have a Meeting, according to the Liberty thou hast given us."
Then said he, "You told me of a Man that had a Message from Heaven
to the People ; which," if he hath, let him say on : but, for my Part,
I did not expect such a multitude, neither did I intend any such Leave
to such a People as ye are." Then he gave us much ill and abusive
Language, saying, "We were led by the Spirit of the Devil." At length
I stood up and told him, "That I was the Person intended in what had
been said." . . . Then Jacob Moral cleared the matter, affirming in
the audience of the People, "That he never said any thing of a Message
from Heaven, but only that a travelling Friend, in the Love of GOD,
had a mind to see them in a Meeting ; which the Major had given
Leave should be there in his House."
Notwithstanding this, the Major persisted in his Abuses, alledging
that Scripture against us, and applying it unduly. Try the Spirits, be
lieve not every Spirit, &c. I asked him, . . . This made the old Per
secutor mad with Rage for a time, and he began to rub up his old
rusty Tools of Persecution, asking me whence I came ? and threatened
to order me into Custody : ... And so we went out, leaving him
foaming and silent in his chair.
I went then immediately into the Street ; where, seeing a Parcel of
Logs of wood near the Side of a House, I went in and asked the woman
of the House (the Goodman being absent) Leave to set the Logs in
order, and sit upon them ; and she was very willing, and said, "The
Street is free for all ; and as for the Logs ye cannot hurt them, use
them at Pleasure," And, besides these, we procured some Deal-boards,
and other things fit for seats, and sat down in the open Street by the
House-side ; which proved a far more convenient Place than the Ma
jor's House, for a multitude of People came thither ; and though some
were very light, airy and rude, most of them were sober, and several
tender, I had a large time in Testimony among them. . . . Dur
ing all this Time the People were generally attentive, and seemingly
pleased ; but just at the Close of the matter, I was attacked, all of a
sudden, by a jolly, brisk Person, who brake into the Crowd behind
me on Horseback, and, by his Garb, look'd like a Pastor of the People,
(and, upon Enquiry afterwards, I found he was so) whose first Salu-

THOMAS STORY IN 1699 AND 1704. 53
tation was after this Manner : "Are you not ashamed thus to delude
the People, imposing upon them false Glosses on the Scripture? I
am a Stranger on the Road, and drawing near this multitude to know
the Occasion of it, cannot but appear in defence of Truth." . . .
Then he, wheeUng his Horse about, said, "He could stay no longer :"
and, in turning of his Horse, he prov'd resty, and ran back upon a
Log, and his hinder Parts fell down, (which some would have a Judg
ment upon him :) but the Priest being a brisk nimble Man, kept upon
his Back, and had no Harm, but rode hastily out of the crowd, and
went off. ... It was now near Night, and began to rain : and, with
some other Friends, I took Horse and rode to Henry Dow's. [On the
Sth of June, Thomas Story went to Haverhill where he visited the
minister, Rev. Benjamin Rolfe, and engaged in a theological contro
versy which he records in much detail. He describes the "priest" as
looking very surly, haughty and illnatured and mentions a fast re
cently appointed because of the cold and backward Spring season,
the danger of Indian attack, "several of the Inhabitants of that Town
having been some time before killed, and others (about nineteen in
all) taken captives by those Savages," and lastly, against the prevail
ing of the Quakers, several of his congregation having left him not
long before. "But mark the end of this ignorant and envious man :
For (as I have been assured since) there came a Party of Indians to
that Town, and before the dawning of the Day, placing themselves
two at least at each Door of every House, and knocking softly as if
they had been Neighbours, as soon as any open'd the Doors, the
Indians rushed in and killed the first they met with their Hatchets,
and then the rest, and many of them in their Beds : and this Teacher
happening to be one who open'd his Door at this Time, an Indian
kiUed him with a Hatchet ; at which I did not rejoice when I was in
formed of it, though I could not but remember his Fast and Prayers."
From Haverhill, Thomas Story went to Salem, Marble-Head and Lynn.
At Salem he heard that the local "priest" had been "railing against
Truth and us in his preachment ; whereby he had offended several
of the more sober sort of his Hearers." At Cambridge, a few days
later, he held a raeeting under an oak before the College buildings
at which Sarauel Gaskin of Salem, "stood up first."]

JOHN HIGGINSON IN 1700.
JOHN Higginson lived in Salem where he was "a considerable
merchant" and held many pubUc offices. Three times deputy
from Salem to the General Court, he became a member of the
Governor's Council in 1700 and continued in that office until his death
in 1719. He also was a Justice of the Court of Common Pleas and
Colonel of the local troop. The following account of the com
mercial conditions in New England in 1700 is abstracted from a letter
that he wrote on August 29, 1700, to his brother Nathaniel and which
was printed in the Collections of the Massachusetts Historical Society,
3d Series, Volume VII (1838). Nathaniel Higginson was graduated
at Harvard College in 1670 and four years later went to England.
In 1683, he went to Madras, in the service of the East India Company
where, in 1692, became Govemor.
... I now come to answer your question : 1st, you say "may a
stock of 5 or 10 thousand pounds be employed ?" I answer, the trade
of New England is large. We trade to all parts where the law doth
not prohibit. Our principal commodities are dry merchandise, cod
fish fit for the markets of Spaine, Portugal, the Straits, also refuse
dry fish, mackerel, lumber, horses and provision for the West Indies ;
the effects whereof mostly retum for England. The returnes made
directly hence for England, are chiefly sugar, molasses, cotton-wool,
logwood and brazilla-wood ; for which, we are beholden to the West
Indies. Of our owne produce, we have a considerable quantity of
whale and other fish-oyles, whale bone, furrs, deer, elk and bear skins ;
which are usually sent for England. We have also silver, lead, and
copper mines ; but, for want of artists, there has been little got out
of them. In all or any of which, a man may employ his money.
2d. "Whether 2 ships can be employed constantly between Eng
land and New England with that stock, and of what burden ?" I ans
wer; 2 ships may be employed with the stock of a 100 tons or more ;
but here is much shipping, freight very low, and it is a query wheth
er you had not better ship upon freight, than either hire or owne
(54)

JOHN HIGGINSON IN 1700. 55
vessels. The factor here may always have freight when he can pro
vide it.
3d. "How many trips can one ship make, in one year, between
England and New England, and what are the proper seasons of voy
aging ?" I answer. It is possible for a ship to make two trips in a
year, but it is seldom done. The season for voyaging is almost all
the year ; the dead of winter most difficult to come on this coast ; the
best time between April and November.
4th. "How many Barbadoes, Jamaica, Virginia, and other places
in the West Indies or in Europe, be made use of in carrying on a trade
between England and New England ? Please to name the corres
pondent whom you have employed, or known, in any such place." I
answer, that Barbadoes, Jamaica, Virginia, and other places in the
West Indies, are very proper to be made use of in making returns for
England, of their commodities, the more advantageous than direct
from hence. For instance, molasses has been this year at 12d a gal
lon, besides the charge of casks, &c., in Barbadoes ; and much mo
lasses, which has been shipped of hence for England, cost here 2s a
gallon; besides other charges of commission, .cooperage, &c. The
freight from Barbadoes being much the same as from hence, I judge
it more advantageous to have returns of that kind from Barbadoes,
than from New England ; sugar and cotton are much the same. Places
proper in Europe to make returns to England from, and are much
improved for that end, from hence, are Bilboa, Cadiz, Oporto, and
the Streights ; where the markets are variable, according to the plenty
or scarcity of the commodities. For correspondents in Barbadoes,
I have had business with Mr. WilUam Adams and his brother Conrad
Adams. WiUiam served his time in this towne with Major Browne ;
has now married a good fortune in Barbadoes, and understands busi
ness weU, and is a faithful man. His brother Conrad lived some time
in this towne, is now at Barbadoes, a worthy man. If anything con
siderable should be sent that way, it may be best to consign them in
partnership for France and Leward Islands. I know none there ; but
here is one John Bradstreet, son of Doctor Samuel Bradstreet, about
24 years old, who served his time with Moses Byfield and Mico ; who
has an estate in Jamaica, and is going this fall to settle there, whom

56 JOHN HIGGINSON IN 1700.
I would commend to you, if you have occasion to send thither. At
Jamaica, are sugar and log-wood for returns, and other things, peices
of eight, &c., for Bilboa, Couzin Hayler can inform you.
5th. "Wliether Salem or Boston be the best place for trade ?"
Answer, Boston, in some respects, Salem in others. Both well im
proved, may do well.
6th. "If Boston, whether you can manage business at Boston
while you reside at Salem ?" For answer thereunto, I would propound
to your consideration, that I have a son whose name is Nathaniel,
now at prentice with Mr. Benjamin Browne, who has given his master
great satisfaction in his service ; is twenty one years of age the 1st
of April next ; and then out of his time. I intend, God willing, he
shall wait upon you by the first ship after he is out of his time, and
hope he will be very capable of business, being bred up a Salem mer
chant, and went to the Latin school till he was fourteen years old.
Now if any business considerable should happen, I do propound that
my son Nat., should live at Boston, and manage a warehouse there,
and what goods may be proper for our trade at Salem, I would man
age here, and should be often also at Boston, to oversee and assist
there ; also my eldest son John, whom I brought up at home, is very
capable of business, a very hopeful young man as any in our towne,
sober and judicious. . . .
I would further propound my opinion, that considering that money
is of late grown so exceeding scarce amongst us, that the making of
returns for England, by the way of Barbadoes, Leeward Islands, Bil
boa, Oporto, Cadiz, and Isle of Wight, would be more easy and safe
than direct for England ; and it's probable, more advantageous ; be
cause, money being scarce, and returns direct, difficult to be got,
debts must be contracted to procure money, which will be hardly got
in, whereas, a man may sell more goods, and better get in his debts
raore speedily and certainly ; for barter of goods for those markets,
than direct.

REV. GEORGE KEITH IN 1702.
THIS is an account of the observations of a man more interested
in religious doctrines than in the natural features ofthe country
through which he passed and therefore the following abstracts
have value only as touching upon men rather than things. George
Keith was born in Aberdeen, Scotland, and becoming a Quaker suffered
confiscation and imprisonment. He came to America in 1684 and
became a surveyor in New Jersey and afterwards taught school in
Philadelphia, where he became involved in disputes with his sect.
Returning to England he was ordained in the Church of England,
and in 1702 was sent to America by the Society for Propagating the
Gospel in Foreign Parts. His journeyings were published in a vol
ume under the following title : A Journal of Travels from New-Hamp
shire to Caratuck on the Continent of North-America, London, 1706.
July 8, July 9, Thursday. I went from Boston to Linn, accom
panied with Mr. Talbot, and the next day, being the Quakers Meeting
day, 'we visited there, having first called at a Quaker's House, who was
of my former acquaintance. Mr. Shepherd the Minister of Linn did also
accompany us, but the Quakers, though many of them had been
formerly Members of his Church, were very abusive to him, as they
were unto us. After some time of silence, I stood up and began to
speak, but they did so interrupt with their Noise and Clamour against
me, that I could not proceed, though I much entreated them to hear
me ; So I sat down and heard their Speakers one after another utter
abundance of falsehoods and impertinencies and gross perversions of
many Texts of the Holy Scripture. After their Speakers had done,
they hasted to be gone ; I desired them to stay, and I would shew
them that they had spoke many f alshoods, and perverted many places
of Scripture, but they would not stay to hear. But many of the
People staid, some of them Quakers, and others who were not Quakers
but disaffected to the Quakers Principles. I asked one of their Preach
ers before he went away, seeing they Preached so much the suf
ficiency of the Light within to Salvation, (without any thing else) did
(57)

58 REV. GEORGE KEITH IN 1702.
the Light within teach him without Scripture, that our Blessed Sav
iour was born of a Virgin, and died for our Sins, etc. He replyed.
If he said it did, I would not believe him, and therefore he would not
answer me.
After their Speakers were gone, I went up into the Speakers Gallery,
where they used to stand and Speak, and I did read unto the People
that staid to hear me, Quakers and others, many Quotations out of
Edw. Burroughs's Folio Book, detecting his vile Errors, who yet was
one of their chief Authors, particularly in Page 150, 151. where he
renders it the Doctrine of Salvation that's only necessary to be preached,
viz. Christ within, and that heis a Deceiver that exhorts People for Sal
vation to any other thing than the Light within; as appears by his sev
eral Queries in the Pages cited. And where he saith. Page 273, that
the Sufferings of the People of God in this Age {meaning the Quakers)
are greater Sufferings, and more Unjust, than those of Christ and the
Apostles; what was done to Christ, or to the Apostles, was chiefly done
by a Law, and in great part by the due execution of a Law. But all this
a noted Quaker, whose name I spare to mention, (as I generally in
tend to spare the mentioning of their Names) did boldly defend. But
another Quaker who stood by, confessed the last Passage in render
ing the Quakers Sufferings greater and more unjust than the Suffer
ings of Christ, was not well worded, but to excuse it, said, we must
not make a Man an offender for a word.
July 19, Sunday. Mr. Talbot Preached at Salisbury in the Forenoon,
and I Preached there in the Afternoon, on Philip 2, 13, where we had
a great Auditory, and well affected, as also we had the like at Hamp
ton. The occasion of our having so great an Auditory both at Hamp
ton and at Salisbury was this, as some of them told us, that they had
been inform'd concerning us, that We being Ministers ofthe Church of
England, we would Preach down-right Popery to our Hearers; But (said
they) we came the rather to hear you, to know whether we could
hear any Popery Preached by you ; but indeed, (said they which were
the most Judicious, and most Ancient among them,) Praised be God
we heard no Popish Doctrine Preached by any of you, but good sound Prot
estant Doctrine, the same which we have heard our Ministers of New-
England Preach to us, and which to our great comfort we have believed

REV. GEORGE KEITH IN 1702. 59
these Forty Years past, and we still continue to believe. We replied, we
were very glad to find that they were of the same Faith with the
Church of England, in these great Fundaraentals of the Christian
Religion. . . .
July 25, 1702. We arrived at Salem, and had intended to have
visited the Quakers at their Meeting there, the next Day, but we were
inforraed that they had reraoved their Meeting for that Day from
Salem to another Place, of which we could have no notice, though we
made enquiry. . . .
July 28. In our way from Salem to Boston, as we stayed some
Hours at the Ferry by Newberry, I had much discourse with a sober
Carpenter who was a Quaker, his Name was William Clement. He
did readily confess to the Fundamentals of the Christian Faith, con
cerning our blessed Saviour ; but had some dispute with me about
Baptism, and by the Discourse I had there with him, seemed to be
much convinced that it was his Duty to have his Children Baptized,
as he had been himself, in Infancy, and had a Resolution to have it
done.

JOHN OLDMIXON IN 1708.
THIS English author is supposed to have visited America but
some authorities incUne to the belief that his book was com
piled by Herman Moll, the cartographer. The dedication, how
ever, is signed by Oldmixon who was the author of many plays, poems
and historical and critical writings. He died in London in 1742. A
second edition of his geographical work was published in 1741 and
both editions were translated and pubUshed in Germany. The text
bears evidence of a certain amount of compilation from earlier printed
works and inaccuracies appear ; in fact, one critic says of the book
that "it contains almost as many errors as pages, and unsupported
is not to be trusted." It was published in two volumes under the
following title : The British Empire in America, Containing the His
tory of the Discovery, Settlement, Progress, and Present State of the Brit
ish Colonies on the Continent and Islands of America, London, 1708.
Salem is the chief Town of this County, situated on the Northern
Branch of the Charles River. Here is one of the best built churches
in the Country : but it was put to a very ill Use in the Time of the
Witch Plague, being generally the place of Meeting for the Witch
Judges, when they began the Prosecutions of the poor Women, who
were put to Death as witches ; more were hang'd here than in all
New-England besides. It broke out in the House of the Minister here,
Mr. Paris, whose Daughter was a main Evidence against them, hav
ing been frequently under the Power of Witchcraft, which her Father
contributed very much to the BeUef of. The Town is situated in a
Plain, between two Rivers, and has two Harbours, Winter Harbour and
Summer Harbour. Here the Planters of the Massachusets Colony made
their first Settlement, and a very good Trade is driven to Barbados and
the Sugar Islands. It has a Market every Wednesday, and two Fairs in
the Year, the last Wednesday in May, and the last Wednesday in Septem
ber. The inferior Court is kept here the last Tuesday in June, and Decem
ber, and the superior the second Tuesday in November. Northward of
Salem is the high Promontory Trabigzando, now called Cape Ann, a
(60)

JOHN OLDMIXON IN 1708. 61
Place for fishing, and a Harbour for ships. A little higher is Ipswich,
a large Town, situated by the side of a fine River. The inferior
Court is kept here the last Tuesday in March, and the superior the
third Tuesday in May. Lyn is a Market-Town, and I was surprised
to read in Mr. Neal, that there's hardly any Town in the Country
that has a market ; for the Accounts we have met with of it name
many Towns with Markets, and the days on which they are kept.
Lyn is situated at the Bottom of a Bay, near a River, which on the
breaking up of the Winter, empties itself with a rapid Torrent into the
Sea. At the Mouth of the River Merrimeck stands Newbury, pleas
antly situated, where Abundance of Sturgeon are taken, and pickled
after the manner used in the Baltick. The Society for propagating
the Gospel according to the Church of England, have a missionary
here, to whom they allow 60/. a Year. If the Design is to convert
the Indians to Christianity, 'tis very pious and laudable, if only to
convert the Pesbyterian, the Society allowing them to be already
Christians, what is wanting to their Salvation ? If it is to foment
Division for indifferent Matters, to support Bigotry and Animosity,
'tis a pretty long way the Missionary goes for it, and I ara afraid his
Errand is not so necessary as a Mission among the Hurons and Iro-
qttois would be. On the other side of the Merrimack, over-against
Newbury, is Salisbury, where there is a Ferry ; the River between the
two Towns being half a Mile over, as broad as the Thames at Graves-
end. Four Miles Southward of Salem is Marblehead, where there is
another Missionary, who is not of the Religion as by Law establish'd
in this Country. The above-mention'd Society allow hira 50/. a Year.
Both these Allowances are very handsom, and much more inviting
than many a Welsh Curacy, which, however, the greatest Part of our
Academists would prefer to the New-England Mission.
The Soil of Essex County is not very fertile except it be near the
Sea Coast, where the Towns are built for the Convenience of Fishing.
The River Merrimack, which waters it, is barr'd in sorae Places, or it
would be navigable up very high within Land.

REV. JOHN BARNARD IN 1714.
THIS description relates only to one town — Marblehead, but it
is so vivid that it must not be overlooked. Rev. John Barnard
was born in Boston in 1681 and after assisting Dr. Coleman
of the Brattle Street Church and serving as Chaplain in the expedi
tions against Port Royal in 1707, he preached as a candidate in several
pulpits and at last become the assistant of Rev. Samuel Cheever at
Marblehead and there he remained for the rest of his life. He must
have been a fine type of the dignified old-time minister for in the dis
course preached at his funeral it was said — "His presence restrained
every imprudent sally of youth, and when the aged saw him they
arose and stood up." The following is reprinted from an autobio
graphical account printed in Collections ofthe Massachusetts Historical
Society, 3d Series, Volume V. (1836)
When I first came, [in 1714] there were two companies of poor,
smoke-dried, rude, ill-clothed men, trained to no military discipline
but that of "whipping the snake," as they called it ; whereas now,
[in 1766] and for years past, we are a distinct regiment, consisting
of seven full companies, well clad, of bright countenances, vigorous
and active men, so well trained in the use of their arms, and the var
ious motions and marches, that I have heard some Colonels of other
regiments, and a Brigadier General say, they never saw throughout
the country, not in their own regiment, no, nor in Boston, so goodly
an appearance of spirited men, and so well exercised a regiraent.
When I came, there was not so much as one proper carpenter, nor
mason, nor tailor, nor butcher in the town, nor any thing of a market
worth naming ; but they had their houses built by country workmen,
and their clothes made out of town, and supplied themselves with
beef and pork from Boston, which drained the town of its money.
But now we abound in artificers, and some of the best, and our mar
kets large, even to a full supply. And, what above all I would re
mark, there was not so much as one foreign trading vessel belonging
to the town, nor for several years after I came into it ; though no
town had really greater advantages in their hands. The people con-
(62)

REV. JOHN BARNARD IN 1714. 63
tented themselves to be the slaves that digged in the mines, and left
the merchants of Boston, Salem, and Europe, to carry away the gains ;
by which means the town was always in dismally poor circumstances,
involved in debt to the merchants more than they were worth ; nor
could I find twenty families in it that, upon the best examination,
could stand upon their own legs ; and they were generally as rude,
swearing, drunken, and fighting a crew, as they were poor. Where
as, not only are the public ways vastly mended, but the manners of
the people greatly cultivated ; and we have many gentlemenlike and
polite families, and the very fishermen generally scorn the rudenesses
of the former generation.
I soon saw that the town had a price in its hands, and it was a pity
they had not a heart to improve it. I therefore laid myself out to
get acquaintance with the English masters of vessels, that I might
by them be let into the mystery of the fish trade, and in a little time
I gained a pretty thorough understanding in it. When I saw the
advantages of it, I thought it my duty to stir up my people, such as
I thought would harken to me, and were capable of practising upon
the advice, to send the fish to market themselves, that they might
reap the benefit of it, to the enriching themselves, and serving the
town. But, alas ! I could inspire no man with courage and resolution
enough to engage in it, till I met with Mr. Joseph Swett, a young
man of strict justice, great industry, enterprising genius, quick ap
prehension, and firm resolution, but of small fortune. To him I opened
myself fully, laid the scheme clearly before him, and he hearkened
unto me, and wise enough to put it in practise. He first sent a small
cargo to Barbadoes. He soon found he increased his stock, built ves
sels, and sent the fish to Europe, and prospered in the trade, to the
enriching of himself ; and some of his family, by carrying on the
trade, have arrived at large estates. The more promising young
men of the town soon followed his example ; that now we have be
tween thirty and forty ships, brigs, snows, and topsail schooners en
gaged in foreign trade. From so small a beginning the town has
risen into its present flourishing circumstances, and we need no for
eigner to transport our fish, but are able ourselves to send it all to
the market..

DR. ALEXANDER HAMILTON IN 1744.
DOCTOR Hamilton was a Scotchman who had learned pharmacy
in Edinburgh and came to Annapolis, Maryland, where he set
up the practice of medicine. After a severe illness he under
took a journey through the Colonies with the hope of benefitting his
health and during that time kept a journal descriptive of his move
ments and the country through which he passed. Shortly after re
turning to Annapolis he presented this journal to an Italian gentle
man, Onorio Razolini, who was visiting America and in whose family
the manuscript remained until the beginning of the twentieth century
when it passed into the hands of booksellers and eventually became
the property of Mr. William K. Bixby of St. Louis, Missouri, who
pubUshed it privately under the following title : Hamilton's Itinerarium,
beir^ a Narrative of a Journey from Annapolis, Maryland, though Dela
ware, Pennsylvania, New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Rhode Island,
Massachusetts and New Hampshire, from May to September, 1744, St.
Louis, 1907. Mystic — ^Lynn
Departing Charlestown I passed thro' Mystic at ten o'clock, a pretty
large village, about four miles northeast from Boston. A little after
twelve I passed thro' Lynn, another viUage, but very scattered, and
standing upon a large compass of ground, the situation very open
and pleasant. Here I could have a view of the sea upon my right
hand, and upon my left a large open hilly and rocky country with
some skirts of woods, which seemed to be but low and of a small
growth.
Marblehead
At one o'clock I arrived at Marblehead, a large fishing town, lying
upon the sea coast, built upon a rock, and standing pretty bleak to
the easterly winds from the sea. It lies eighteen miles northeast from
Boston, and is somewhat larger than Albany, but not so neatly or
compactly built, the houses being all of wood and the streets very
(64)

DR. ALEXANDER HAMILTON IN 1744. 65
uneven, narrow, and irregular. It contains about 5,000 inhabitants
and their commodity is fish. There is round the town above 200
acres of land covered with fish-flakes, upon which they dry their cod.
There are ninety fishing sloops always employed, and they deal for
£34,000 sterling prime cost value in fish yearly, bringing in 30,000
quintals, — a quintal being one hundredweight dried fish, which is
3,000,000 pounds weight, a great quantity of that commodity.
I put up here at one Ried's at the sign of the Dragon, and while I
was at dinner, Mr Malcolm,* the Church of England minister to
whom I was recommended, came in.
After I had dined he carried me round the town, and showed me
the fish-flakes, and the town battery, which is built upon a rock, nat
urally well fortified, and mounts about twelve large guns. We had
a great deal of talk about affairs at home. I went to his house and
drank tea with him.
He showed me some pretty pieces of music, and played some tunes
on the flute and violin. He is author of a very good book upon music,
which shows his judgment and knowledge in that part of Science.
Sunday, July 29th. — This morning inquiring for my portmanteau,
I was told by my man Dromo that it was in his room. I had the
curiosity to go and see what kind of a room his room was, and upon
a reconnoitre found it a most spacious one, furnished a la mode de
cabaret, with tables, chairs, a fine feather-bed with quilted counter
pane, white calico canopy or tester, and curtains, every way adapted
for a gentleman of his degree and complexion.
I went to church to hear Mr. Malcolm in the forenoon, who gave
us a pretty discourse. This church is a building of wood, about
eighty feet square, supported in the inside with eight large octagonal
wooden pillars of the Doric order. Upon this church stands a steeple
in which there is a public clock. The floor of the church is raised
six or seven feet above the ground, and under it is a burying place.
The pulpit and alter are neat enough, the first being set out with
a cushion of red velvet, and the other painted and adorned with the
King's arms at top. There is one large gaUery facing the pulpit, op
posite to which at the south entry of the church hangs a pretty large
?Rev. Alexander Malcolm, rector of St. Michael's Church (1740-1749) who re
signed and removed to Maryland.

66 DR. ALEXANDER HAMILTON IN 1744.
gilt candle branch. The congregation consists of about 400 people.
I dined with Mr. Malcolm, and went to church again with him in
the aftemoon, and spent the evening agreeably in his company. In
this town are likewise two great Presbyterian meetings.
Salem
Monday, July 30th. — Mr. Malcolm and I set out at eleven o'clock
in the moming for Salem, which is a pretty town about five miles
from Marblehead, going round a creek, but not above two if you
cross the creek. We arrived there betwixt twelve and one o'clock,
and called at Justice Sewell's,* who invited us to dine with him. We
put up our horses at the Ship Tavern, and went to Mr. Sewell's.
Our conversation ran upon the enthusiasm now prevalent in these
parts, and the strange madness that had possessed some people at
Ipswitch, occasioned by one Woodberry, a mad enthusiast, who, pre
tending to inspiration, uttered several blasphemous and absurd
speeches, asserting that he was the same today, yesterday, and for
ever, saying he had it in his power to save or damn whom he pleased,
falling down upon the ground, licking the dust, and condemning all
to hell who would not do the like, drinking healths to King Jesus,
the self -existing Being, and prosperity to the kingdom of heaven, and
a thousand other such mad and ridiculous frolics. I was quite
shocked at these relations, both when I heard them mentioned in
conversation, and saw them published in the newspaper, being sur
prised that some of the chief clergy there had been so weak as to be
drawn away by these follies. This is a remarkable instance to what
lengths of madness enthusiasm will carry men once they give it a
loose [rein], and tho' these excursions may appear shocking to people
in their senses, yet so much good may follow them as that the interest
and influence of these fanatic preachers will be thereby depressed
among all such people as are not quite fools or mad.
These extravagancies take all their first root from the labours of
that righteous apostle Whitefield, who, only for the sake of private
lucre and gain, sowed the first seeds of distraction in these unhappy
ignorant parts.
?Stephen Sewall (1704-1760), Harvard College, 1721. Judge of the Superior
Court of Judicature and Chief Justice from 1752 until his death. He was the son
of Major Stephen Sewall who was the clerk of the witchcraft court.

DR. ALEXANDER HAMILTON IN 1744. 67
In the afternoon Mr. Malcolm and I rid to the country-seat of one
Brown,* a gentleman who married a daughter of the late Governour
Burnets', a grand-daughter of the bishops'. His house stands upon
the top of a high hill, and is not yet quite finished. It is built in the
form of an H, with a middle body and two wings.
The porch is supported by pillars of the Ionic order about fifteen
feet high, and betwixt the windows of the front are pilasters of the
same. The great hall or parlour is about forty feet long and twenty
five wide, with a gallery over the first row of windows, and there are
two large rooms upon a floor in each of the wings about twenty-five
feet square.
From this hill you have a most extensive view. To the southwest
you see the Blue Hills, about thirty-six miles distance ; to the east
the sea and several islands ; to the northwest the top of a mountain
called Wachusett Mountain, like a cloud, about ninety miles distance,
towards Albany ; and all round you have a fine landscape, covered
with woods, a mixture of hills and valleys, land and water, upon
which variety the eye dwells with pleasure. This hill Mr. Brown
calls Mount Burnet in compliment to his wife.
In the hall I saw a piece ot tapestry or arras of scripture history,
done by Vanderbank, a Dutch artist. For elegance and design it is
like painting, the passions in the faces being well expressed. It is
the best of the kind ever I saw.
This gentleraan has a fine estate, but withal has the character of
being narrow and avaricious, a vice uncommon to young men. He
has a strange taste for theological controversy. While we were there
the conversation turned chiefly upon nice metaphysical distinctions
relating to original sin, imputed righteousness, reprobation, effectual
calling, and absolute decrees, which stuff — as I esteem it to be no more
than the monstruous and deformed offspring of scholastic, theological
heads — I should choose to hear at no other times but when I took a
?Hon. William Browne (1709-1763), whose county seat in Beverly was popularly
known as "Browne's Folly,'' a name afterwards applied to the hill on which it was
built. He was a Justice of the Court of General Sessions and died suddenly while
about his fields in Beverly. A reservior supplying water to the city of Salem
now occupies the crest of this hill. For a full account of "Browne's Folly" and
its owner see Essex Institute Historical Collections, Vol. 31, page 205.

68 DR. ALEXANDER HAMILTON IN 1744.
cathartic or emetic, in order to promote theoi)eration if it proved too
sluggish. Mr. Malcolm and I retumed to Salem a Uttle before eight o'clock,
and went to the Ship Tavern, where we drank punch and smoaked
tobacco with several colonels ; for colonels, captains, and majors are
so plenty here that they are to be met with in all companies, and yet
methinks they look no more like soldiers than they look like divines ;
but they are gentlemen of the place, and that is sufficient.
We went to Mr. SeweU's lodging betwixt nine and ten at night,
and after some chat with him went to bed.
The town of Salem is a pretty place, being the first settled place
in New England. In it there is one Church of England, one Quaker
meeting, and five Presbyterian meetings. It consists of one very long
street, running nearly east and west.
Upon the watch-house,* is a grenadier, carved in wood, shoulder
ing his piece. Salem Ferry — ^Ipswitch
Tuesday, July 31st. — ^At eleven o'clock this moming Mr. Malcolm
accompanied me to Salem Ferry, where I crossed, and rid a pleasant
level road all they way to Ipswitch, where the houses are so thick
planted that it looks like one continued village. I put up at one
Howel's in Ipswitch, at the sign of the Armed Knight. I waited up
on Mr. John Rogers.f the minister there, and deUvered h\m a packet
of letters from his son at AnnapoUs.
I retumed again to the tavern and there met a talkative old f eUow,
who was very inquisitive about my place of abode and occupation,
as he caUed it.
He frequently accosted me with please your honour, with which
grand title, like some fools whom I know, I seemed highly pleased,
tho' I was conscious it did not belong to me. When I told him I
came from Maryland he said he had frequently read of that place,
?The watch house formerly stood in Town House Square, in the middle of what
is now Washington Street It was erected in 1712 and was little more than a
large sentry box. The life-size figure of a grenadier bore on its breast the legend
"Anne Regina, 1712."
tRev. John Rogers died the next year. He had been minister of the Ipswich
church since 1688. His portrait is at the Essex Institute, Salem.

dr. ALEXANDER HAMILTON IN 1744. 69
but never had seen it. This old fellow, by his own account, had read
of everything, but had seen nothing. He affected being a scholar,
or a man much given to reading or study, and used a great many
hard words in discourse, which he generally misapplied. There was
likewise a young man in company, who rid with me some miles on
my way to Newberry. He valued himself much upon the goodness
of his horse, and said that he was a prime beast as ever went upon
four legs or wore hoofs. He told me he had a curiosity to ride to
Maryland, but was afraid of the terrible woods in the way, and asked
me if there were not a great many dangerous wild beasts in these
woods. I told him that the most dangerous wild beasts in these woods
were shaped exactly like men, and they went by the name of Buck
skins, or Bucks, tho' they were not Bucks either, but something, as
it were, betwixt a man and a beast.
"Bless us ! you don't say so," says he ; "then surely you had needs
ride with guns" (meaning my pistols). I parted with this wiseacre.
When I had got about half way to Newberry, a little farther I met a
fat sheep driving in a chaise, a negro sitting upon the box. I asked
the negro if that was his master.
He told me no, but that it was a wether belonging to Mr. Jones,
who had strayed and would not come home without being carried.
Passing by this prodigy I met another, which was two great fat women
riding upon one horse.
I arrived at Newbury at seven o'clock, and put up at one Choat's
at the sign of the Crown, which is a good house. Newbury is a pretty
large village, lying close upon the water ; the houses are chiefly wood.
In this town there is one handsome meeting built in a square form,
with a spire or steeple upon which is a little neat publick clock.
Newbury Ferry — Hampton
Wednesday, August 1st. — This moming proved very rainy, and
therefore I did not set out till eleven o'clock.
I crossed Newbury Ferry, and rid a pleasant even road, only some
what stony, and in a perpetual drizzle, so that I could not have an
advantageous view of the country round me. At half an hour after
one I passed thro' Hampton, a very long, scattered town. . . .

70 dr. ALEXANDER HAMILTON IN 1744.
Newbury Ferry
[August 3d] Near Newbury Ferry I met an old man, who was very
inquisitive about news. He rid above a mile with me. I crossed the
ferry at twelve o'clock, and dined at Choat's with two Boston gentle
men, and after dinner they would have had me go to the Presbyter
ian meeting to hear a sermon, but I declined it, and getting upon
horseback departed Newbury at three in the aftemoon, the day being
pretty hot.
Some miles from this town I passed thro' a pleasant small plain
about a quarter of a mile broad, thro' the middle of which runs a
pretty winding river. On the way I met a young sailor on foot who
kept pace with my horse, and he told me he was bound for Salem
that night. He entertained me with his adventures and voyages,
and dealt much in the miraculous, according to the custom of most
travellers and sailors. I arrived at Ipswitch at six o'clock and put
up at Howell's. I went to see Mr. Rogers, the minister there, and at
night drank punch with his son, the doctor.
Salem Ferry
Saturday, August 4th. — I left Ipswich early in the morning, and
had a solitary ride to Salem. I put up my horses there at the Ship
Tavern and called at Messrs Sewell's and Brown's, but they were
both gone out of town.
At Salera there is a fort with two demi-bastions, but they stand
less in need of it than any of the other maritime towns here, for the
entry to this harbour is so difficult and rocky that even those who
have been for years used to the place will not venture in without a
good pilot, so that it would be a hard task for an enemy to enter.
Portsmouth harbour is easy enough, but the current of the tides there
is so violent that there is no getting in or out but at particular seasons,
and, besides, they are locked in on all hands by islands and promon
tories. At Marblehead the entry-is very easy and open.
At twelve o'clock I thought of going to Marblehead again to pay
another visit to Mr. Malcolm, whose company and conversation had
much pleased me, but meeting here with a gentleman going to Boston,
I took the opportunity, for the sake of company, to go along with
him.

REV. GEORGE WHITEFIELD IN 1740.
REV. George Whitefield, the revivalist, made several .tours of
New England and at last died suddenly in Newburyport, in
1770 and was buried "Under the church on Federal Street"
where for many years the coffin was exhibited to visitors. Doctor
Bentley, the Salem minister, viewed the remains on May 6, 1787 and
records in his Diary : "His body is yet firm. The resistance of the
breast is as great as in a piece of tight parchment, both his hands
are taken away, and his throat cut open." His first tour of New
England was published under the following title : "A Continuation
ofthe Rev. Mr. Whitefields' Journal . . . Containing an account of
the work of God at Georgia, Rhode Island, New-England . . . London,
174L Monday, Sept. 29, [1740]. Set out about 7 in the Morning, got to
Marblehead, a large Town 20 Miles from Boston, about 11 ; preach'd
to some Thousands in a broad Place in the middle of the Town, but
not with much visable Effect. Din'd with Mr. Barnard, one of the
Ministers of the Place. Rode to Salem, 4 Miles from Marblehead,
and preach'd there also to about 7000 People ; Here the Lord mani
fested forth his Glory. One Man was, I beUeve, struck down by the
Power of the Word. In every Part of the Congregation Persons
might be seen under great Concern ; One Mr. Clark, a good Minister,
as is granted by all Lovers of God, seemed to be almost in Heaven.
Salem is the first settled, and except Boston, the largest Town in all
New England; but rather, as far as I could see and hear, excells it for
Politeness. Upon Enquiry, I found the Inhabitants had been sadly
divided about their Minister ; and God was pleased, before I knew
their Circumstances, to direct me to a suitable Subject. . . . After
the Exercise, I immediately set out and got to Ipswich, another large
Town, 16 Miles (the Way we went) distant from Salem. Two or
three Gentlemen came to meet me, and I and my Friends were kind
ly entertain'd at the House of Mr. Rogers, one of the Ministers of
the Place. (71)

72 REV. GEORGE WHITEFIELD IN 1740.
Tuesday, Sept. 30. Preach'd at Ipswich about 10 in the Moming,
to some Thousands ; The Lord gave me Freedom, and there was a
great Melting in the Congregation. Din'd, set out and reach'd New
bury, another large Town, twelve Miles distant from Ipswich, about
3. Here again the Lord accompanied the Word with his Power ;
The Meeting-House was very large, many Ministers were present,
and People were greatly affected. Took Ferry immediately after
Sermon ; went with Mr. Cotton, Minister of the Place, who came to
meet me in a Chaise to Hampton, another great Town, 9 Miles from
Newbury. Set out directly for Newbury; which we reach'd about 8 at Night,
and were kindly entertain'd at a Gentleman's House with all my
Friends, my Heart was much enlarged and fiU'd with Joy. . . .
Saturday, Octob. 4. Lay at the House of Mr. Lowell, Minister of
the Place. Preached in the Morning to a very throng'd Congregation,
and saw the Outgoings of God in his Sanctuary ; collected £80 9s.
Hastned to Ipswich; preached to a larger Congregation, and with as
much Power as when there last. Got to Salem about 8 at night, was
most kindly received by Col. P  d ; and also was favour'd with a
Visit from the Minister belonging to the Church of England.
Sunday, October 5. Preach'd at 8 o'clock, this Morning in the
Meeting-House. At the Minister's Request, read Prayers and assisted
at the Sacrament in the Church of England, but thought Matters
were not at all carried on with Decency and Order. Preached again
in the Afternoon in the Meeting-House, but saw no such Power all
the Day as when I preached here a few Days ago.
Monday, October 6. Spent the Sabbath Evening very comfortably
with my dear Fellow Travellers in praying and singing spiritual Songs ;
I trust we made Melody, with Grace in our Hearts unto the Lord.
Set out from Salem about 9, preached at Marblehead about 11,
and with such Power that I trust it will be a Day much to be re
membered by many Souls. The two Ministers presented me £70 2s.
6d. for the Orphan-House, which they had voluntarily collected Yes
terday in their own private Meetings. Was most affectionately re
ceived and entertain'd by Col. M  n, from whom I parted almost
with Tears.

CAPT. FRANCIS GOELET IN 1750.
CAPTAIN Goelet was a merchant of the city of New York who
made several voyages to England during one of which, in the
ship "Tartar Galley," he encountered a severe storm which
disabled the vessel and compelled it to put into Boston for repairs
where he remained from Sept. 29 to Nov. 7, in the year 1750. He
kept a journal of his "Voyages and Travels," and abstracts covering
the time of his stay in Boston were printed in the January, 1870 issue
of The New-England Historical and Genealogical Register. Included
are accounts of visits to Salem and Marblehead.
October 19* [1750]. While at Breakfast M^. NatW Cunningham
waited on me at Cap'. Wend^ Agreeable to Promise and Furnished
me with a Horse to go to Salem, being Very desirous to see the
Country. Sett out ab* 10 a Clock from Cap'. Wendells and Rode
trough the North End the Towne and Crost<J Charles Town Ferry
which is abt 1/4 mile Over its a Pleasant Little towne directly Op
posite the North End of Boston and is pleasently Situated Consists
of ab' 200 Houses and where the Bostoneers Build many Vessels, it
is the Chief Ferry from Boston Leading to the main Country Back
ab' 2 miles from thence we Crost Penny Ferry which is better then
1/2 mile Over being the Neighest way to Salem. From this to M"".
Wards is about 8 miles, and is ab' a mile this Side of Lyn which is a
Small Country Towne of ab* 200 Houses, very Pleasently Situated,
and affords a Beautifull Rural Prospect we came to M"". Wards about
One a Clock, and dynd upon Fryd Codd from this place is about 7
miles to Salem, after Dinner haveing Refreshed our Selves with a
Glass wine Sett out on our Journey trough a Barren Rockey Country
which afforded us not the Least Prospect of any thing but a Desart
(73)

74 CAPT. FRANCIS GOELET IN 1750.
Country abounding with Loffty Cragged Rocks a Fine Pastering
Ground only for their Sheep, the Rhoads are Exceeding Stony and
the Country but thinly Peopled.
October 19'^. Arived at Salem ab* 3 a Clock put up our Horses
at the Wido Prats from whence went to See Coll'. William Browne*
where drank Tea with his Spouse, after which M^. Browne was so
Good as to Accomodate us with a walk round the Towne Shewing
us the wharfs warehouses &c. went up in the Steeple of the Church
from whence had a Fine View of the Town Harbor &c. which is
Beautyf uUy Situated From which have a View of M"". Brownes Country
Seat which is Situated on a Heigh Hill ab' 6 Miles Eastward of Salem
Spent the Evening at his House where Joynd in Company by Parson
Appletont and Miss Hetty his daughter from Cambridge they Being
Acquaintence of M^. and Mrs. Browne we Supd togeather and after
that where Very merry, at Whist &c.
October 20**. Lodg'd at M"". Brownes after Breakfast Saunterd
round the Towne mayking Our Observations on the Builds &c Dynd
at his House after Dinner had a Good Deal Conversation with him
upon Various Subjects he being a Gent" of Excellent Parts weU Ad-
versed in Leaturate a Good Scholar a Great Vertuosa and Lover of
the Liberal Arts and Sciences haveing an Extroardenary Library of
Books of the Best Ancient and Modern Authors about 3 a Clock we
Sett out in his Coach for his Country Seat rideing trough a Pleasant
Country and fine Rhoads we arived there at 4 a Clock the Situation
is very Airy Being upon a Heigh Hill which Over Looks the Country
all Round and affords a Pleasant Rural Prospect of a Fine Country
with fine woods and Lawns with Brooks water running trough them
you have also a Prospect of the Sea on one Part and On another a
Mountain 80 miles distant The House is Built in the Form of a Long
Square, with Wings at each End and is about 80 Foot Long, in the
middle is a Grand Hall Surrounded above by a Fine Gallery with
Neat turned Bannester and the Cealing of the Hall Representing a
?Col. Browne was, at one time, a conspicuous character in Salem. He probably
married the daughter of Gov. Burnet while the latter resided in Mass. His son
Col. William Brown, was a prominent loyalist. — Felt's Annals of Salem; Picker
ing's Life of Timothy Pickering; Sabine's American Loyalists.
tRev. Nathaniel Appleton, D. D.

CAPT. FRANCIS GOELET IN 1750. 75
Large doom Designed for an Assembly or Ball Room, the Gallery for
the Mucisians &c. the Building has Four Doors Fronting the N. E.
S. & W. Standing in the middle the Great Hall you have a Full
View of the Country from the Four Dores at the Ends of the Build
ings is 2 upper and 2 Lower Rooms with neat Stair Cases Leading to
them in One the Lower Rooms is his Library and Studdy well Stockd
with a Noble Colection of Books, the others are all unfurnish'd as
yet Nor is the Building yet Compleat wants a Considerable workman
Ship to Compleat it, so as the Design is But Since the Loss of his
first wife who was Governour Burnetts Daughter of New York by
whome he has yet 2 Little Daughters Liveing, the Loss of her he
took much to heart as he was doateingly fond of her Being a Charm
ing Ladie when married. But he is now determined to Compleat it
we drank a Glass wine haveing Feasted our Eyes with the Prospect
of the Country Returned to his House where Sup'd and Past the
Evening Vastly Agreeable being a Very mery Facitious Gentlemen,
went to bed Intends to Proceed to Marble head Next Morning.
October 21st. Haveing Got our Horses ready, after Breakfast took
our Leaves of M^. Browne and Spouse. Before proceed shall Give a
Discription of Salem Its a Small Sea Port Towne. Consists of ab*
450 Houses, Several of which are neat Buildings, but all of wood,
and Covers a Great Deal of Ground, being at a Conveniant Distance
from Each Other, with fine Gardens back their Houses, the Town
is Situated on a Neck of Land Navagable on either Side is ab' 2 1/2
Miles in Lenght Including the Build^s Back the Towne, has a main
Street runs directly trough. One Curch 3 Presbiterian and One
Quakers Meeting, the Situation is Very Pretty &c.
The Trade Consists Chiefly in the Cod Fishery, they have ab' 60
or 70 Sail Schooners Employd in that Branch. Saw ab* 30 Sail in
the Harb"^ havs then ab' 40 at Sea. They Cure all their Own Cod
for Markett, Saw there a Vast Number Flakes Cureing, in the Har
bour Lay also two Topsail Vessels and three Sloops, on Exams into
the Fishery find it a very adventags Branch.
Wee arived at Marblehead at ab' 10 a Clock, which is ab' 4 Miles
by Land, trough a Pleasent Country and good Roades, and is about
11/2 Miles by Water, it forras a Bay, Marblehead lays on the East-

76 CAPT. FRANCIS GOELET IN 1750.
ermost part of the Land but ye west Side the Bay, and Salem on a
Point, the Westermost part of the Land and Easttermost Side the
Bay, before you Enter Marblehead the Roads are Excessive Stony
and Land very Rockey, affording only very Little Pasture Ground,
Put up at M"". Reads where Breakfast and Then went to see the
Towne of Marblehead, has ab' 450 Houses all wood and Clapboarded
the Generallity Miserable Buildings, Mostly Close in with the Rocks,
with Rockey foundations Very Craggy and Crasey. The whole Towne
is Built upon a Rock, which is Heigh and Steep to the water. The
Harbour is Sheltered by an Island, which Runs along Parralell to it,
and brakes of the Sea, Vessells may Ride here Very safe, there is a
Path or way downe to the warf which is but Small and on which is a
Large Ware House, where they Land their Fish &c. From this heigh
Cliffty Shore it took its Name, I saw ab' 5 Topsail Vessells and ab'
10 Schooners and Sloops in the Harbour, they had then ab' 70 Sail
Schooners a Fishing, with ab' 600 men and Boys imployed in the
Fishery, they take Vast Quantities Cod, which they Cure heere Saw
Several Thousand Flakes then Cureing. This Place is Noted for
Children and Noureches the most of any Place for its Bigness in
North America, it's Said the Chief Cause is attributed to their feed
ing on Cods Heads, &c. which is their Principall Diett. The Great
est Distaste a Person has to this Place is the Stench of the Fish, the
whole Air seems Tainted with iL It may in Short be Said its a
Dirty Erregular Stincking Place. About Eleven Sett out from
Marblehead and ab' One Arived at Linn Dynd upon a Fine Mongrell
Goose at M''. Wards, after Dinner Proceed^ on Our Journey Past
trough Mistick which is a Small Town of ab' a hundred Houses
Pleasently Situated near to which is a Fine Country Seat belonging
to M"^. Isaac Royall being One of the Grandest in N. America Arived
at Charles Towne ab' 7 a Clock and Crosed the Ferry at North End
and Came to M^. Jacob Wendells where Spent the Evening with
Several Gentlemen.

HUGH FINLAY IN 1773.
HUGH Finlay was an Englishman who came to Canada in 1760
where he established himself in business and became a
Justice of the Peace and Legislative Councillor. When Benja
min Franklin came to Canada in 1772 to establish a postal service
he placed it in Finlay's hands and when Franklin was dismissed in
1774 Finlay was made Deputy Postmaster General of the Northern
District of North America. In 1775 he lived in "Holland House"
which was occupied by Gen. Montgomery as his headquarters. After
the Revolution he became Deputy Postmaster General for the British
Colonies in North America and died in 1802. In 1773 and 1774 he
made a tour of inspection along the Atlantic coast as far south as
Georgia and the following account is abstracted from the Journal kept
by Ht^h Finlay, 1773-1774, Brooklyn, 1867.
Left Portsmouth [Oct. 9, 1773] after dinner, and arrived at New
bury (22 miles), Bulkeley Emerson, Dep'y. On Sunday 10th did no
business. Monday 11th. Examined the books, they were in form and up to
this day : he has no office, but receives and delivers letters in his
shop, he is a bookseller. He seems to be a stayed, sober man. Re
ceived the balance of the quarter ending the Sth. The Post from
Boston arrives on Tuesdays at 6 o'clock in the evening. From Ports
mouth on the same day at one P. M. From Boston on Friday 6
o'clock P. M. in summer. From Portsmouth on Friday between 4
and 5 P. M. The mail for Boston is made up on Tuesday, one o'clock.
For the Eastward at the same time. For Boston on Friday 4 o'clock
P. M. For the Eastward at the same time, but theres seldom any letters
either for East or West. The stages and private conveyances take
it aU. Left a copy of Mr Foxcrofts directions to me dated 16th Sept.
to settle and receive balances from the Deputy Post masters. Mr.
Emerson thinks that the want of Post-horns is a loss to the office,
for by warning given by the horn many letters wou'd go by Post
which are now sent by other oportunity's — the Post shou'd blow be-
(77)

78 HUGH FINLAY IN 1773.
fore the hour of shutting, and in passing on his way many letters
wou'd be deliver'd to him. He asks, whether, if the drivers of stages
were to be paid a penny for every letter they bring to the office he
might charge two pence for all such letters deliverable in town. The
Rider who brings the mails to this office is punctual. The office here
neither encreases nor diminishes, the rece't is from £9 to £10 lawful,
quarterly. Left Newbury and proceeded 12 miles to Ipswitch, James Foster,
Dep'y. Gone to the country ; he keeps a small shop. Left directions
for him in writing to send his accots. with the General Post office
by next Post., directed for me at the Post Office in Boston, and also
to send the balance of his account, and to inform me of the days and
hours of the arrival of mails at his office, and the times of the Post's
departure from his office, with any proposals he may have to make
for the good of the office — with his report of the riders employed.
Proceeded 12 miles to Salem, Edward Norice, Dep'y.
October 11th. His books were not in good order, he follows
the form, but they are dirty and not brought up regularly ; he under
stands the business of a deputy. The office is kept in a small mean
looking place. He teaches writing. He has no commission to act,
he took charge of the office at the death of his father ; he reports
that every other day the stage coach goes for Boston, the drivers
take many letters, so that but few are forwarded by Post to or from
his office. If any information were lodged (but an informer wou'd
get tar'd and feather'd) no jury wou'd find the fact ; it is deem'd
necessary to hinder all acts of Parliament from taking effect in
America. They are they say to be governed by laws of their own
framing and no other.
While Mr. Norrice was making up his accounts I went down the
12th, four miles, to Marblehead, Woodward Abrahams, Deputy. He
was from home : his wife informs me that he accounts to Mr. Hub
bard, Post Master in Boston, and the quarter ending the 5th July
was settled and transmitted. Wrote a letter to Mr. Abrahams, as
follows :
"My business with you was to look into your office books, to re
ceive the quarters account ending the Sth of this month, and the

HUGH FINLAY IN 1773. 79
balance due by you to the General Office, and to enquire if you
have anything to propose for the good of the service, or any thing
to represent needing amendment, but as I have miss'd of you, I pray
you to transmit the accounts and balance to me at Mr. Hubbard's
in Boston by the first Post : and be so good as to inform me of any
matter which you think a Surveyor shou'd be made acquainted with,
whose business is to further the interest of the General Post Office,
and facilitate correspondence by every possible means. I shou'd
be glad to know particularly how the mails are forwarded, since
John Noble cannot ride thro' this place. I shall leave Salem for
Boston to morrow morning, where I shall remain some days."
In passing thro' the street in my way back to Salem, I met Mr.
Abrahams on his return from the country : a few minutes before my
letter was put into his hands, he promised to comply with my demands.
He appears to be an intelligent man ; he has an employment in the
Customs, and keeps the Post Office where he does the Custom House
business. Noble, the rider, cannot go down to Marblehead at present.
The small-pox is in Salem, and was he to go down with the mail he
wou'd be oblig'd to undergo the ceremony of smoaking, that is, to
be fumigated with brim-stone ; as he is of a weakly constitution he
cannot submit to it, therefore he leaves the Marblehead bag to take
its chance of a conveyance ; opportunitys happen once or twice a day,
yet it sometimes lies for days at Salem — the people in Marblehead
complain of this. It is Noble's duty to send it down by a person
sent on purpose, this rider is careful, sober and punctual ; he rides
all the way to Portsmouth.
On my return to Salem I settled with Mr. Norice, who would not
swear to his accounts as he has no commission. The Post from
Boston arrives at Salem on Tuesday 12 o'clock, and he is dispatch'd
for the Eastward at 2 ; coming from Boston the rider goes first to
Marblehead. He returns from the Eastward every Saturday morn
ing at 10 o'clock, and takes Marblehead on his way to Boston. Left
Salem and proceeded 21 miles to Boston, (where I arrived the 13th),
Tuthill Hubbard, Post Master.

MARQUIS DE CHASTELLUX IN 1782.
FRANCOIS Jean Chastellux was born in Paris in 1734 and at an
early age entered the army. In 1777, he was a Major-General
under Rochambeau in the American army and afterwards
travelled through the Middle States, to Massachusetts and New
Hampshire in 1782. The following year he sailed from Philadelphia
and returned to France where he died Oct. 28, 1788 in Paris. The
following account of his journey through Essex County is abstracted
from the English translation of his travels published under the follow
ing title : Travels in North America in the years 1780, 1 781 and 1 782,
By the Marquis de Chastellux, 2 vols,, London, 1787,
It was on the morning of the Sth [Oct. 1782] that I examined the
field of battle at Concord, which took me up till half past ten, when
I resumed my journey. Ten miles from Concord is Bellerika, a pretty
considerable township ; the country here was less fertile, and the
road rather stony. We halted at South Andover. five miles beyond
Billerika, at a bad inn, kept by one Forster ; his wife had some
beautiful children, but she appeared disordered, and I thought her
rather drunk. She shewed me, with much importance, a book her
eldest daughter was reading, and I found it, to my no small surprise,
to be a book of prayers in Italian. This daughter, who was about
seventeen, repeated also a prayer in the Indian language, of which
she understood not a word, having learnt it accidentally from an
Indian servant ; but her mother thought all this admirable. We
contented ourselves with baiting our horses in this wretched alehouse,
and set out at half past one, travelled through South and North An
dover, North-Parish, or. North Andover, is a charming place, where
there are a great number of very handsome houses, a quantity of
meadows, and fine cattle. Almost on quitting this long township,
you enter Bradford, where night overtook us, and we travelled two
or three miles in the dark before v/e reached Haverhill ferry. It was
half past six before we had crossed it, and got to Mr. Harward's inn,
where we had a good supper, and good lodgings. At Haverhill, the
(80)

A. Kortli-eaft Vic-w ofthe Town VMrhour of lSre\yfauryForl
A TCe To-wn Ho\ife |JS,TN(rerimaclf Biver | C.Kope"Waak|X>.Tro§Pona | E. SaUfbiivyl

MARQUIS DE CHASTELLUX IN 1782. 81
Merimack is only fit for vessels of thirty tons, but much larger ones
are built here, which are floated down empty to Newbury. Three
miles above HaverhiU are falls, and higher up the river is only navig
able for boats. The trade of this town formerly consisted in timber
for ship-building, which has been suspended since the war. It is
pretty considerable, and tolerably well built ; and its situation, in
the form of an amphitheatre on the left shore of the Merimack, gives
it many agreeable aspects.
We left this place the 9th at nine in the morning, our road lying
through Plastow, a pretty considerable township ; after which we
met with woods, and a wild and horrid country. [The Marquis then
passed through Kingston, Exeter and Greenland and reached Ports
mouth that evening.] . . .
The road from Portsmouth to Newbury passes through a barren
country. Hampton is the only township you meet with, and there
are not such handsome houses there as at Greenland. As we had
only twenty miles to go, I was unwilling to stop, and desired the
Vicomte de Vaudreiul only, to go on a little before us to dinner. It
was two o'clock when we reached Merimack ferry, and from the
shore we saw the openings of the harbour, the channel of which
passes near the northern extremity of Plumb Island, on which is a
small fort, with a few cannon and mortars. Its situation appears to
me well chosen, at least as far as I was capable of judging from a
distance. At the entrance of the harbour is a bar, on which there
are only eighteen feet water in the highest tides, so that although it
be a very commercial place, it has always been respected by the
English. Several frigates had been built here ; amongst others, the Charles-
Town, and the Alliance. The harbour is extensive, and well sheltered.
After passing the ferry in little flat boats, which held only flve horses
each, we went to Mr. Davenports' inn,* where we found a good din
ner ready.
I had letters from Mr. Wentworth to Mr. John Tracy, the most
considerable merchant in the place ; but before I had time to send
them, he had heard of my arrival, and, as I was arising from table,
?Now the "Wolfe Tavern."

82 marquis de CHASTELLUX IN 1782.
entered the room, and very politely invited me to pass the evening
with him. He was accompanied by a Colonel, whose name is too
difficult for me to write, having never been able to catch the manner
of pronouncing it, but it was something like Wigsleps.* This
Colonel remained with me till Mr. Tracy finished his business, when
he came with two handsome carriages, well equipped, and conducted
me and my Aide de Campe to his country-house. This house stands
a mile from the town, in a very beautiful situation ; but of this I
could myself form no judgment, as it was already night. I went
however, by moonlight, to see the garden, which is composed of
different terraces.
There is likewise a hot-house and a number of young trees. The
house is very handsome and well finished, and every thing breathes
that air of magnificence accompanied with simplicity, which is only
to be found amongst merchants.
The evening passed rapidly by the aid of agreeable conversation
and a few glasses of punch. The ladies we found assembled were
Mrs. Tracy, her two sisters, and their cousin. Miss Lee. Mrs. Tracy
has an agreeable and a sensible countenance, and her manners corres
pond with her appearance. At ten o'clock an excellent supper was
served, we drank good wine. Miss Lee sung and prevailed on
Messieurs de Vaudreiul and Taleyrand to sing also : towards midnight
the ladies withdrew, but we continued drinking Maderia and Xary.
Mr. Tracy, according to the custom of the country, offered us pipes
which were accepted by M. de Taleyrand,t and M. de Montesquieu,
the consequence of which was that they became intoxicated, and
were led home, where they were happy to get to bed.
As to myself, I remained perfectly cool, and continued to converse
on trade and politics with Mr. Tracy, who interested me greatly with
an account of all the vicissitudes of his fortune since the beginning
of the war. At the end of 1777, his brother and he had lost one
and forty ships, and with regard to himself, he had not a ray of hope
but in a single letter of marque of eight guns, of which he had re
ceived no news. As he was walking one day with his brother, and
*Col. Edward Wigglesworth.
tCount Bozon de Perigord, alias de Talleyrand.

MARQUIS DE CHASTELLUX IN 1782. 83
they were reasoning together on the means of subsisting their fami
lies (for they were both married) they perceived a sail making for
the harbour. He immediately interrupted the conversation, saying
to his brother, "Perhaps it is a prize for me." The latter laughed
at him, but he immediately took a boat, went to meet the ship, and
found that it was in fact a prize belonging to him, worth five and
twenty thousand pounds sterling. Since that period, he has been
almost always fortunate, and he is at present thought to be worth
£120,000 sterling. He has my warmest wishes for his prosperity ;
for he is a sensible, polite man, and a good patriot. He has always
assisted his country in time of need, and in 1781 lent five thousand
pounds to the State of Massachusetts for the clothing of their troops,
and that only on the receipt of the Treasurer, yet his quota of taxes
in that very year amounted to six thousand pounds. One can hardly
conceive how a simple individual can be burthened so far ; but it
must be understood, that besides the duty of 5 per cent, on import
ation, required by Congress, the State imposed another tax of the
same value on the sale of every article, in the nature of an excise,
on rum, sugar, coffee, &c. These taxes are levied with great rigour :
a merchant who receives a vessel is obliged to declare the cargo,
and nothing can go out of the ship or warehouse without paying the
duty. The consequence of this restraint is, that the merchants, in
order to obtain free use of their property, are obliged themselves to
turn retailers, and pay the whole duty, the value of which they must
recover from those to whom they sell. Without this, they could
neither draw from their stores, what is necessary for their own con
sumption, nor the small articles, which they are in the way of selling,
at the first hand ; they are consequently obliged to take out licences,
like tavern-keepers and retailers, thus supporting the whole weight
of the impost both as merchants and as shop-keepers. Patriot as he
is, Mr. Tracy cannot help blaming the rigour with which commerce
is treated ; a rigour arising from the preponderance of the farmers
and landholders, and also from the necessity which the government
is under of finding money where it can ; for the farmers easily evade
the taxes ; certificates, receipts, alledged grievances, reduce them al
most to nothing. Thus has a State, yet in its infancy, all the infirm-

84 MARQUIS DE CHASTELLUX IN 1782.
ities of age, and taxation attaches itself to the very source of wealth,
at the risk of drying up its channels. [This observation appears
rather forced, as applied generally, the Marquis admitting that these
impositions were the result of a critical and immediate want. Trans
lator,] I left Newbury Port, the 13th at ten in the morning, and often
stopped before I lost sight of this pretty little town, for I had great
pleasure in enjoying the different aspects it presents. It is in general
well built, and is daily increasing in new buildings. The warehouses
of the merchants, which are near their own houses, serve by way of
ornament, and in point of architecture resemble not a little our large
green-houses. You cannot see the ocean from the road to Ipswich ;
and the country to the eastward is dry and rocky. Toward the west
it is more fertile ; but in general the land throughout the country,
bordering on the sea, is not fruitful. At the end of twelve miles is
Ipswich, where we stopped to bait our horses, and were surprised to
find a town between Newbury and Salem, at least as populous as
these two sea-ports, though indeed much less opulent.
But mounting an eminence near the tavern, I saw that Ipswich
was also a sea-port. I was told however that the entrance was diffi
cult, and at some times of the year there were not five feet upon the
bar. From this eminence you see Cape Anne, and the south side of
Plumb island, as well as a part of the north. The bearing of the coast,
which trends to the eastward, seems to me badly laid down in the
charts ; this coast trends more southerly above Ipswich, and forms a
sort of bay.
Ipswich at present has but Uttle trade, and its fishery is also on the
decline ; but the ground in the neighborhood is pretty good, and
abounds in pasturage, so that the seamen having turned farmers,
they have been in no want of subsistence, which may account Uke
wise for the very considerable population of this place where you
meet with upwards of two hundred houses, in about two miles square.
Before you arrive at Salem, is a handsome rising town called
Beverley. This is a new establishment produced by commerce, on
the left shore of the creek which bathes the town of Salem on the
north side. One cannot but be astonished to see beautiful houses.

MARQUIS DE CHASTELLUX IN 1782. 85
large warehouses, &c. springing up in great numbers, at so small a
distance from a commercial town, the prosperity of which is not
diminished by it. The rain overtook us just as we were passing near
the lake which is three miles from Beverley. We crossed 4;he creek
in two flat-bottomed boats, containing each six horses. It is near a
mile wide ; and in crossing, we could very plainly distinguish the
opening of the harbour, and a castle situated on the extremity of the
neck, which defends the entrance. This neck is a tongue of land
running to the eastward and connected with Salem only by a very
narrow sort of causeway. On the other side of the neck, and of the
causeway, is the creek that forms the true port of Salem, which has
no other defence than the extreme difficulty of entering without a good
practical pilot. The view of these two ports, which are confounded
together to the sight ; that of the town of Salem, which is embraced
by two creeks, or rather arms of the sea, the ships and edifices which
appear intermingled, form a very beautiful picture, which I regret
not having seen at a better season of the year. As I had no letters
for any inhabitants of Salem, I alighted at Goodhue's tavern,* now
kept by Mr. Robinson, which I found very good, and was soon served
with an excellent supper. In this inn was a sort of club of merchants,
two or three of whom came to visit me ; and amongst others, Mr. de
la Fille, a merchant of Bordeaux, who had been established five years
at Boston ; he appeared a sensible man, and pretty well informed
respecting the commerce of the country, the language of which he
speaks well.
The 14th in the moming, Mr. de la Fille called upon me to conduct
me to see the port and some of the warehouses. I found the harbour
commodious for commerce, as vessels may unload and take in their
lading at the quays ; there were about twenty in the port, several of
which were ready to sail, and others which had just arrived. In
general, this place has a rich and animated appearance. At my re
tum to the inn I found several merchants who came to testify their
regret at not having been appraized more early of my arrival, and
at not having it in their power to do the honours of the town.
?The "Sun Tavern," located in Essex Street, a short distance east of St. Peter
Street.

86 MARQUIS DE CHASTELLUX IN -1782.
At eleven, I got on horseback, and taking tlie road to Boston, was
surprised to see the tovm, or suburb of Salem, extending near a mile
in length to the westward. On tlie whole it is difficult to conceive
the state of increase, and the prosperity of this countn', after so long
and so calamitous a war. The road from Salem to Boston passes
through an arid and rocky country, always within three or four
miles of the sea, without having a sight of it ; at length, however,
after passing L5mn, and Lynn Creek, you get a view of it, and find
yourself in a bay formed by Nahant's Point, and PuUing's Point. I
got upon the rocks to the right of the roads, in order to embrace
more of the country, and form a better judgment.
I could distinguish not only the whole bay, but several of the is
lands in Boston road, and part of the peninsular of Nantasket, near
which I discovered the masts of our ships of war. From hence to
Winisimmet ferry, you travel over disagreeable roads, sometimes at
the foot of rocks, at others across salt marshes. It is just eighteen
miles from Salem to the ferry, where we embarked in a large scow,
containing twenty horses ; and the wind, which was rather contrary,
becoming more so, we made seven tacks, and were near an hour in
passing. The landing is to the northward of the port, and to the
east of Charles-Town ferry.

JOHN ADAMS IN 1766-1774.
THE second President of the United States, when a young man
and a practicing lawyer, frequently had occasion to visit Essex
County in connection with the sessions of the Courts. He al
so had a brother-in-law living in Salem — Richard Cranch, a watch
maker, whose son William, became a Justice of the United States
Supreme Court. John Adams makes no mention in his diary of a
murder trial held in the old court house at Salem in 1769 in which
he appeared for the defendant. The case was unusual in that at a
preliminary hearing the medieval "ordeal of touch" was invoked to
support the claims of the accusers. There was a similar instance at
Woburn a few years earlier. The following extracts are taken from
his diary as printed in Volume II of The Works of John Adams,
Boston, 1850,
August 12, 1766. Tuesday. Set out with my wife for Salem;
dined at Boston ; drank tea at Dr. Simon Tuft's at Medf ord ; lodged
at Mr. Bishop's.
Aug. 13. Wednesday. Set out from Mr. Bishop's, oated at Nor
wood's, alias Martin's, and reached brother Cranch's* at twelve
o'clock ; dined and drank tea, and then rode down to the Neck Gate,
and then back through the Common and down to Beverly Ferry, then
back through the Common and round the back part of the town
home ; then walked round the other side of the town to Colonel
Browne's, who not being at home we returned.
The town is situated on a plain, a level, a flat ; scarce an emin -
ence can be found anywhere to take a view. The streets are broad
and straight, and pretty clean. The houses are the most elegant
and grand that I have seen in any of the maritime towns.
Aug. 14. Thursday. In the morning rode a single horse, in com
pany with Mrs. Cranch and Mrs. Adams in a chaise to Marblehead.
The road from Salem to Marblehead, four miles, is pleasant indeed.
The grass plats and fields are deUghtful, but Marblehead differs from
?Richard Cranch, who had married a sister of John Adams' wife.
(87)

88 JOHN ADAMS IN 1766-1774.
Salem. The streets are narrow, and rugged, and dirty, but there are
some very grand buildings.
Returned and dined at Cranch's ; after dinner walked to Witchcraft
hill, a hill about half a mile from Cranch's, where the famous persons
formerly executed for witches were buried. Somebody within a few
years has planted a number of locust trees over the graves, as a
memorial of that memorable victory over the "prince of the power
of the air." This hill is in a large common belonging to the proprie
tors of Salem, &c. From it you have a fair view of the town, of the
river, the north and south fields, of Marblehead, of Judge Lynde's
pleasure house, &c., of Salem village, &c.
November 3, 1766. Monday. Set off with my wife for Salem ;
stopped half an hour at Boston, crossed the ferry, and at three o'clock
arrived at Hill's, the tavern in Maiden, the sign of the Rising Eagle,
at the brook near Mr. Emerson's meeting-house, five miles from
Norwood's ; where, namely, at Hill's, we dined. Here we fell in
company with Kent and Sewall. We all oated at Martin's, where
we found the new sheriff of Essex, Colonel Saltonstall. We all rode
into town together. Arrived at my dear brother Cranch's about
eight, and drank tea," and are aU very happy. Sat and heard the
ladies talk about ribbon, catgut, and Paris net, riding-hoods, cloth,
silk, and lace. Brother Cranch came home, and a very happy even
ing we had. Cranch is now in a good situation for business, near
the court-house and Mr. Barnard's meeting house, and on the road
to Marblehead ; his house fronting the wharves, the harbor and ship
ping, has a fine prospect before it.
Nov. 4. Tuesday. A fine morning. Attended court all day ;
heard the charge to the jury, and a prayer by Mr. Barnard. Deacon
Pickering was foreman of one of the juries. This man, famous for
his writing in newspapers concerning church order and government
they tell me is very rich ; his appearance is perfectly plain, like a
farmer; his smooth combed locks flow behind him like Deacon
Cushings,' though not so gray ; has a quick eye like  ; he has an
hypocritical demure on his face like Deacon Foster ; his mouth makes
a semicircle when he puts on that devout face. Deacon Penniman

»S»nfji,.>i»'*»»'.i --fpR."?-?'*, ',«i«*«itM«iL-!*-',fl^S»"-

'r"^ff1.&r.;r..-^^

THE BRICK SCHOOL-HOUSE IN SALEM.
Erected in 1760. The whipping post is in front of the building. From a water color
made about 1765, now at the Essex Institute,

JOHN ADAMS IN 1766-1774. 89
is somewhat like him, though Penniman has more of the grave so
lemnity in his behavior than the other. The picture of Governor
Endicott, &c. in the council chamber, is of this sort ; they are puri
tanical faces.
At this court I also saw a young gentleman lately sworn in the
inferior court, whose name is Samuel Porter ;* he lived with Mr.
Farnham, took his second degree last year, and lives at Ipswich.
Thus every county of the Province swarms with pupils, and students,
and young practitioners of law.
Nov. 5. Wednesday. Attended court ; heard the trial of an action
of trespass, brought by a mulatto woman, for damages, for restrain
ing her of her liberty. This is called suing for liberty ; the first ac
tion that ever I knew of the sort, though I have heard there have
been many. Heard another action for assault and battery, of a
mariner, by the master of a vessel ; a little fellow was produced as
a witness who is a Spaniard ; speaks intelligible EngUsh ; black eyes,
thin sharp features ; has been among the English three or four years.
Here I saw Nathaniel Peaslee Sargent, of Methuen, t two years an
attorney of superior court, now commencing a barrister. He took
his degree the year I entered college ; he has the character of sense,
ingenuity, &c., but not of fluency ; he is a stout man, not genteel
nor sprightly. This is the gentleman whora Thacher recommended
for a justice, and admired for his correctness and conciseness, as an
other Father Read. Here I found the famous Joseph Eaton, at law
as usual. I knew him when I lived at Worcester, where he had a
suit, I believe, every court while I lived there. He now lives at Lynn
End, on the borders between Essex and Middlesex. This is one of the
stirring instruments that Goffe has patronized and encouraged for
many years. I remember to have heard Goffe celebrate hira for self-
government, for a cool, steady command of his passions, and for firm
ness of mind, &c. Eaton is now at law with the Harts, whose char
acters are as curious as his and more so. This Eaton, Goffe set up, as
?Afterwards of Salem and a Loyalist who died in London in 1798. It is said
that he indicated to Lieut-Colonel LesUe, which street he should take on reaching
Salem, Feb. 26, 1775, while on the way to the North Bridge.
tAfterwards Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of Massachusetts. He died
in 1791.

90 JOHN ADAMS IN 1766-1774.
Pynchon tells me, to be a justice, but Thacher got him indicted in the
county of Essex for a barrator, which defeated the scheme of Goffe, and
he came near conviction. Goffe grew warm, and said that Eaton's
character was as good as any man's at the bar. Spent the evening
at Mr. Pynchons, with Famham, Sewall, Sargent, Colonel Saltonstall,
&c. very agreeably. Punch, wine, bread and cheese, apples, pipes
and tobacco. Popes and bonfires'" this evening at Salem, and a
swarm of tumultuous people attending them.
Nov. 6. Thursday. A fine morning ; oated at Martin's, where we
saw five boxes of dollars, containing, as we were told, about eighteen
thousand of them, going in a horse-cart from Salem custom-house to
Boston, in order to be shipped for England. A guard of armed men,
with swords, hangers, pistols, and muskets, attended it. We dined
at Dr. Tuft's in Medford.
June 29, 1770. Began my journey to Falmouth in Casco Bay.
Baited my horse at Martin's in Lynn, where I saw T. Fletcher and
his wife, &c. Dined at Goodhue's, in Salem, where I fell in company
with a stranger, his name I knew not ; he made a genteel appear
ance, was in a chair himself with a negro servant ; seemed to have
a general knowledge of American affairs ; said he had been a mer
chant in London ; had been at Maryland, Philadelphia, New York,
&c. One year more, he said, would make Americans as quiet as
lambs ; they could not do without Great Britain, they could not con
quer their luxury, &c ; Oated my horse, and drank balm tea at
Treadwell's in Ipswich, where I found Brother Porter, and chatted
with him half an hour, then rode to Rowley, and lodged at Captain
Jewett's. Jewett "had rather the House should sit all the year round,
than give up an atom of right or privilege. The Govemor can't
frighten the people with, &c."
June 30. Saturday. Arose not very early, and drank a pint of
new milk, and set off; oated my horse at Newbury, rode to Clark's,
at Greenland meeting-house, where I gave him hay and oats, and
then set off for Newington ; turned in at a gate by Colonel March's,
and passed through two gates more before I came into the road that
?Pope's Night — the celebration of the anniversary of the Gunpowder Plot.

JOHN ADAMS IN 1766-1774. 91
carried me to my uncle's."' I found the old gentleman, in his eighty-
second year, as hearty and alert as ever, his son and daughter well,
their children grown up, and every thing strange to me. I find I
had forgot the place ; it is seventeen years, I presume, since I was
there. My reception was friendly, cordial, and hospitable, as I could
wish ; took a cheerful, agreeable dinner, and then set off for York
over Bloody Point Ferry, a way I never went before, and arrived at
Woodbridge's half a hour after sunset.
I forgot yesterday to mention, that I had stopped and inquired the
name of a pond in Wenham, which I found was Wenham Pond, and
also the name of a remarkable little hill at the mouth of the pond,
which resembles a high loaf of our country brown bread, and found
that it is called Peters' Hill to this day from the famous Hugh Peters,
who about the year 1640 or before preached from the top of that
hillock to the people who congregated round the sides of it without
any shelter for the hearers, before any buildings were erected for
public worship.
June 17, 1771. Monday. Set out upon the eastern circuit. Stopped
at Boston, at my office, and nowhere else. Came over Charles
town ferry and Penny ferry, and dined at Kettel's, in Maiden, by the
meeting-house. Kettel is a deputy sheriff ; the meeting-house is Mr. J.
Thatcher's. I mounted my horse and rode to Boston, in a cloth coat
and waistcoat, but was rauch pinched with a cold, raw, harsh, north
east wind. At Boston, I put on a thick flannel shirt, and that made
me comfortable, and no raore ; so cold ara I, or so cold is the weather,
— 17th June. Overtook Judge Cushing in his old curricle and two
lean horses, and Dick, his negro, at his right hand, driving the cur
ricle. This is the way of travelling in 1771 ; — a judge of the circuits,
a judge of the superior court, a judge of the King's bench, common
pleas, and exchequer for the Province, travels with a pair of wretched
old jades of horses in a wretched old dung-cart of a curricle, and a
negro on the same seat with him driving. But we shall have more
glorious times anon, when the sterling salaries are ordered out of the
?Rev. Joseph Adams, minister of that town. He had been a great admirer of
Doctor Mather and was said to affect an imitation of his voice, pronunciation,
and manner in the pulpit.

92 JOHN ADAMS IN 1766-1774.
revenue, to the judges, &c. as many most ardently wish, and the
judges themselves, among the rest, I suppose. Stopped at Martin's
in Lynn, with Judge Cushing ; oated and drank a glass of wine, and
heard him sigh and groan the sighs and groans of seventy-seven,
though he kept active. He conversed in his usual, hinting, insinuat
ing, doubting, scrupling strain.
Rode with King, a deputy sheriff, who came out to meet the judges,
into Salem ; put up at Goodhue's. The negro that took my horse
soon began to open his heart ; — he did not Uke the people of Salem ;
wanted to be sold to Captain John Dean, of Boston ; he earned two
dollars in a forenoon, and did all he could to give satisfaction, but
his mistress was cross, and said he did not earn salt to his porridge,
&c. and would not find him clothes, &c. Thus I find discontents in
all men ; — the black thinks his merit rewarded with ingratitude, and
so does the white ; the black estimates his own worth and the merit
of his services higher than anybody else, so does the white. This
flattering, fond opinion of himself, is found in every man. I have
hurt myself today, by taking cold in the forenoon, and by drinking
to much wine at Kettel's, and at Martins. I drank half a pint at
Kettel's, and two glasses at Martin's.
Just after I had drank tea and got my fire made in ray chamber,
my old neighbor, Jo. Barrell, came and lodged at Goodhue's in the
same chamber with me. His grief is intense indeed. He spent the
whole evening and a long time after we got to bed, in lamenting the
loss of his wife, in enumerating her excellencies, &c. ; heartily wishes
himself with her ; would have been very glad to have gone with her.
He married from pure regard, utterly against the will of his mother
and all his friends, because she was poor ; but she made him happy.
She was the best of women ; the world has lost all its charms to him.
She beckoned to me but a few minutes before she died, when her
hands were as cold as clods. She whispered to me, "I love you now ;
if I could but carry you and the children with me, I should go re
joicing." In this eloquent strain of grief did he run on. Millions of
thoughts did this conversation occasion me. I thought I should have
had no sleep all night ; however, I got to sleep and slept well.
June 18. Tuesday. Rode with Mr. Barrell to Ipswich, and put

JOHN ADAMS IN 1766-1774. 93
up at Treadwell's. Every object recalls the subject of grief. Barrell,
all the way to Ipswich, was like the turtle bemoaning the loss of his
mate. "Fine season and beautiful scenes, but they did not charm
him as they used to. He had often rode this way a courting with
infinite pleasure," &c. "I can't realize that she has left me forever.
When she was well, I often thought I could realize the loss of her,
but I was mistaken ; I had no idea of it." In short, this man's mourn
ings have melted and softened me beyond measure.
June 22. Saturday. Spent this week at Ipswich, in the usual
labors and drudgery of attendance upon court. Boarded at Tread
well's ; have had no time to write. Landlord and landlady are some
of the grandest people alive ; landlady is the great grand-daughter
of Governor Endicott, and has all the great notions of high family
that you find in Winslows, Hutchinsons, Quincys, Saltonstalls, Chand
lers, Leonards, Otises, and as you might find with more propriety in
the Winthrops. Yet she is cautious and modest about discovering
it. She is a new light ; continually canting and whining in a religious
strain. The Governor was imcommonly strict and devout, eminently
so in his day ; and his great, great grand-daughter hopes to keep up
the honor of the family in hers, and distinguish herself among her
contemporaries as much.
"Terrible things sin causes," sighs and groans, "the pangs of the
new birth. The death of Christ shows above all things the heinous
nature of sin! How awfully Mr. Kent talks about death! How
lightly and carelessly ! I am sure a man of his years, who can talk
so about death, must be brought to feel the pangs of the new birth
here, or made to repent of it forever. How dreadful it seems to me
to hear him, I that am so afraid of death, and so concemed lest I
an't fit and prepared for it ! What a dreadful thing it was that Mr.
Gridley died so ! — too great, too big, too proud to learn any thing ;
would not let any minister pray with him ; said he knew more than they
could tell hira ; asked the news, and said he was going where he
should hear no news," &c.
Thus far, landlady. As to landlord, he is as happy, and as big, as
proud, as conceited as any nobleman in England ; always calm and
good-natured and lazy ; but the contemplation of his farm and his

94 JOHN ADAMS IN 1766-1774.
sons and his house and pasture and cows, his sound judgment, as he
thinks, and his great holiness, as well as that of his wife, keep him
as erect in his thoughts as a noble or a prince. Indeed, the more I
consider of mankind, the more I see that every man seriously and in
his conscience believes himself the wisest, brightest, best, happiest,
&c. of all mankind. . . .
June 23. Sunday. In the morning my horse was gone. Went to
meeting all day, and heard old Mr. Rogers, a good well-meaning
man, I believe. After meeting rode to Newbury and visited Brother
Lowell, Brother Famham, and then went and supped with Mr. Jon
athan Jackson in company with Captain Tracy, Mr. Hooper, Mr.
WiUiams, Mr. Frazier, and Brother Lowell ; then went and lodged
with Lowell.
Nov. 9, 1771. Saturday. At Salem aU this week, at court. Dined
one day at Chief Justice Lynde's, all the rest of the week till this day
with the court. Dined this day, spent the aftemoon, and drank tea,
at Judge Ropes's, with Judges Lynde, Oliver and Hutchinson, Sewall
Putnam and Winthrop. Mrs. Ropes is a fine woman, very pretty
and genteel. Our Judge Oliver is the best bred gentleman of all
the judges by far ; there is something in every one of the others in
decent and disagreeable at times in company — affected witticisms,
unpolished fleers, coarse jests, and sometimes, rough, rude attacks ;
— but these you don't see escape Judge Oliver. Drank tea at Judge
Ropes', spent the evening at Colonel Pickmans. He is very spright
ly, sensible, and entertaining, talks a great deal, tells old stories in
abundance about the witchcraft, paper money, Govemor Belcher's
administration, &c.
Nov. 10. Sunday. Heard Mr. Cutler of Ipswich Hamlet ; dined
at Dr. Putnam's, with Colonel Putnam and lady, and two young
gentlemen, nephews of the Doctor, and Colonel  , and a Mrs.
ScoUay. Mar. 28. 1774. Monday. Rode with brother Josiah Quincy to
Ipswich Court. Arrived at Piemont's, in Danvers, in good order and
well conditioned. Spent the evening, and lodged agreeably. Walked

JOHN ADAMS IN 1766-1774. 95
out in the morning to hear the birds sing. Piemont"" says there is a
report that the Sons of Liberty have received some advices from
England, which makes them look down ; that they have received a
letter from Mr. BoUan, that they must submit ; and others letters
which they kept secret.
Mar. 29. Tuesday. Rode to Ipswich, and put up at the old place,
Treadwell's. The old lady has got a new copy of her great grand
father Governor Endicott's picture hung up in the house.
The old gentleman is afraid they will repeal the excise upon tea,
and then that we shall have it plenty ; wishes they would double the
duty, and then we should never have any more. The question is.
Who is to succeed Judge Ropes ?t Whether Brown, or Pynchon, or
Lee, or Hatch? The bar here are explicit against the two last as
unfit. Lowell says Pynchon would take it, because he wants to
raake way for Wetmore, who is about marrying his daughter. Pyn
chon says Judge Ropes was exceedingly agitated, all the time of his
last sickness, about the public affairs in general, and those of the
superior court in particular ; afraid his renunciation would be at
tributed to timidity ; afraid to refuse to renounce ; worried about
the opinion of the bar, &c. Mr. Farnham is exceedingly mollified ;
is grown quite modest and polite, in comparison with what he used
to be, in politics. Lowell is so, too ; seems inclined to be admitted
among the liberty men.
?He came to Danvers from Boston and in 1784 was keeping a tavern in Ipswich.
In 1775 he was accused of being a tory but his good character was certified by
citizens of Danvers.
tJudge Nathaniel Ropes, Judge of the Superior Court, a firm loyalist, who lived
in Salem. He died of small pox and while lying near to death his house was at
tacked by a mob and many windows were broken and the premises defaced.

SIMEON BALDWIN IN 1784.
WHILE a tutor at Yale College, Simeon Baldwin made a tour
of the New England coast towns during which he kept a
diary preserving some account of his obser%'ations. He was
a Member of Congress in 1803-1805, the next year becoming Judge
of the Supreme Court of Connecticut. In 1826 he was Mayor of New
Haven. His dairy and other papers have been published by Gov.
Simeon E. Baldwin under the following title — Life and Letters of
Simeon Baldwin, New Haven [1919. yi
Oct. 7, 17841 . . . Waited on the President,* gave him my
Letter from Mr Clark — took some from him to Portsmouth — & tar
ried but a few minutes, took our leave of the Circle — & dined among
the rocks & shoemaker shops of Lyn — went into one of the shops (of
which there are 150) to see ye manufactory — were informed that
Medford or Mystic, a pretty Town a little back was equally famous
for a manufactory of brick — much of their common wall was made
of them. lAfter dinner & paying extravagantly for it we travelled
thro' several little settlements tho' little good Land, till'we came to
Marblehead a town of about 4 or 500 houses on the sure foundation
of a rock — they are famous for the curing of Cod. The people are
savage in their nature & education — are very poor in general — amaz
ingly prolific & exceed all places in the habit of begging, one can
hardly ride thro' the Town without- being accosted in that way by
one half of the old women & children in it. We viewed the crates
got what information we could & rode round to Sales^— put our
horses & lodged at Col Bacons, after delivering our Letters &
suping with Mr [Henry] Gibbs — he is a very kind hospitable man :
says not a great deal, but appears clever — Mrs Gibs answers the
same description. She does not half so much resemble the Prescot
family, at N Haven as her sister Goodoo.f she was present — I gave
her the Letter & drank to her as Mrs Gibs, the mistake turned the
?Rev. Joseph Willard, D. D. President of Harvard College.
tThe wife of Stephen Goodhue. (96)

SIMEON BALDWIN IN 1784. 97
Laugh on me &c — Friday, Oct. 8. Took my morning walk as usual
to see the place — found the streets a little irregular but the buildings
many of them very good, & the number, but a little short of those in
Newport — business was lively & good deal done there — took breakfast
at Mr Gibs — delivered a Letter to Miss Peggy McKey a plain, good girl
— & another introductory to Mr Whetmore a Lawyer— proraised to
call on him again. Left the Town in company with Mr Law — soon
pass'd the ferry to Beverly a place far exceeding my expectation ;
in short I never had a just idea of the population of this country —
every three or 4 miles a meeting-house would present itself — we
dined at Mr. Dana's a very good minister of Ipswich, the Rev'd Mr
Frysby came there to see us, and we must call on both on our retum
— our next stop was for a few minutes at Mr Bradfords & then a
variety of merry chit-chat & friendly Disputes interspersed the variety
of Landscips in our rapid progress to Newbury & port, where we
slept after delivering a Letter to a very pretty Miss Parsons, with
whom & her papa we spent most of ye Evening — Mr King to whora
we had Letters was absent — we returned to the Tavern without
much new acquaintance.
Saturday, Oct. 9. Breakfasted soon after rising — ^had an invita
tion soon after to breakfast with Mr [Samuel] Spring the clergyman
— I went to his house but on my way was introduced to Mr Mycall
the printer — went into his book store — ^found a very good collection
of 5 or 6 hundred VoUumns — took half a second breakfast at Mr
Springs. Found hira & his wife both very agreeable — engaged to
dine with thera on Monday — took leave & rode to Almsbury — call'd
on a Mr Bell, who was to be setled there the next week — could not
get away 'till after diner — was entertained with great exuberance
of his oddities — ^found fine road thro [Hampton] to our last stage at
Portsmouth. Monday, Oct. 11, 1784. After viewing the greater part of the
Town in company with young Mr Langdon — we took breakfast at
Esq. Hale's & about 9 o'clock were on our horses for Salem — Ports
mouth is a Town of about 700 Houses not equal to Salera — is pretty

98 SIMEON BALDWIN IN 1784.
well laid out in squares — the Harbour exceeding good — their wealth
is in the lumber trade — with share in the fishery. We made but few
stages, & nothing particular in the soil or prospect was inviting — till
we came to Newburyport ; this is a place of great Trade, particularly
in fish, vessels & Lumber — the Town is pretty regular, perhaps in
cluding Newbury about 600 Houses — we dined at Mr. Springs, was
exceedingly pleased in the acquisition of having him & his wife
among the Circle of my acquaintance — took letters from Miss Hannah
Parsons & the charge of a performance of her Papa's — in which I
had a specimen of a man riding his Hobby — Mr Frysby was not at
home & we excused ourselves without tarrying at Mr Dana's. Were
so belated in the Hamlet of Ipswich that we put up for the night —
although we depended on arriving at Salem — Mr Cutler* was so
busy in some unaivoidable matters that we could not spend time with
him tiU the next morning when we breakfasted with him. He gave
us a variety of entertainment, particularly an account of his tour to
the White Mountains. He accompanied as to Beverly and took leave
with much politeness.
Tuesday, Oct. 12. Cross'd the ferry about 11 o'clock. Mr Whet
more was out of Town. Mr Hopkins to whom by his previous desire
we introduced ourselves invited us to dine. We paid our respects &
deliver'd our Letter to Mr Bentley & except his importunity (in which
he succeeded) to make us tarry, I have not found a more agreeable
acquaintance. After calling on Mr. Gibs & making my excuses for
not being there the last night, I took their & Miss MacKey's Letters
& mounted for Cambridge about 4 o'clock. Night overtook us & we
lost our Road but were in College in about 3 & 1/2 hours.
?Rev. Manasseh Cutler.

LUIGI CASTIGLIONI IN 1785.
BIOGRAPHICAL information in relation to this Italian visitor
is lacking in all the dictionaries. He arrived at Boston in 1785
and after visiting the Province of Maine journeyed through New
Hampshire, Vermont, New York and into the Southern States. He
gave special attention to the botanical novelties of the country and
viewed it with the keen eyes of a naturalist rather than those of a
political observer. His notes upon manners and customs are varied
and of unusual interest. A long chapter is devoted to the Penobscot
Indians. A New England salt fish dinner, with shell barks and cider,
he found most indigestible. His travels were published in two vol
umes under the following title : Viaggio negliStati Uniti dell America
Settentrionale fatto n^li 1785, 1786, el787, Milano, 1792. The fol
lowing English translation of the portion relating to Essex County
has been made by George Andrews Moriarty, Esq., of Boston. The
first volume also was published in a German translation in 1793 at
Mommingen. Although, upon my retum to Boston I should have left at once to
make ray trip in the Eastern section of Massachusetts, the agreeable
society of Boston and their kindly insistance detained me some days
in that city, and I finally left on June 22 [1785] for Salem. The road
thither is very beautiful and in some places very wide. I passed
through Medford, a charming little village near Charlestown, and
through Lynn another village which, situated at the foot of a hill
covered with red cedars, enjoys a view over a little bay that lies in
front of it and of the sinuous course of the Lynn river which here
empties into the sea. Salem, the capital of Essex County, one of the
oldest towns of Massachusetts, is situated near the sea, and has a
harbor into which only small ships can enter. The houses are for
the most part constructed of wood and are of good appearance and
there are some made of brick. The churches are chiefly Presbyter
ian with an Anglican church and a Quaker raeeting. The town is
(99)

100 LUIGI CASTIGLIONI IN 1785.
said to have a population of eight thousand people, which gives it
the right to send four representatives to the State Legislature. Its
principal trade is in dried cod, of which they export annually 20 or
30 thousand casks.* This fish which as I have before observed is
found most abundantly on the Newfoundland banks is prepared
when taken in the following manner. As soon as a fish is caught it
is split lengthwise and is immediately placed in different piles in the
ship, after each layer of fish has been carefully covered with a
layer of salt. They are left in this way until the ship arrives at
Salem when they remove the fish from the piles, wash them in sea
water, and then expose them for eight consecutive days to the sun
upon a scaffolding made for such purpose, taking care to turn them
each day so that they may be equally dried in all parts and taking them
in at night. After eight days they pile them up again in the house
leaving them there about one month after which they once more ex
pose them to the sun to thoroughly dry them. When entirely cured
they are placed in casks, in which they compress them with a presser,
and then put them on board ship. The best fish are taken in the
Autumn or Spring while those taken in the Summer are of a very
inferior quality. They are then carried to the Antilles where they
are used to feed the negroes.
On leaving Salem I passed over a small area of the sea that divides
Salem from Beverly and arrived at Ipswich Hamlet where I passed the
night with Mr. Cutler, minister of the Presbyterian church. In his
leisure hours he devotes himself to the study of botany in which he
has made rapid progress in a short time. I cannot express the
pleasure I had in finding in America a person who occupied himself
with so rauch intelligence in the humane study of natural history
and the following morning we made a short trip on foot into the
country where we gathered various curious plants that I had not
previously observed.
On this occasion we saw various squirrels that are very common
all over Massachusetts, and of which there are three different species.
The largest is the gray squirrel which is sometimes as large as a cat.
?In the last year (1784) they exported 28,000 casks. Each cask weighs 112
English pounds.

LUIGI CASTIGLIONI IN 1785. 101
They do great damage to the fields of Indian corn when the ears
open and they eat the sweet and tender grains. Accordingly in some
places the inhabitants are obliged to hunt them every four years and
to carry the head to a chosen person* and in others they pay from
the public treasury two pence for every squirrel killed. They kill
these in the trees with shot guns, or take them with snares and traps
and easily domesticate them keeping them in the houses bound with
a light chain as pets for the children. They also eat the meat which
is fat and of a delicate flavor, and the skins are sold at a low price.
Much smaller than the preceeding is the chipmunk, that is not
larger than a rat. This is called in EngUsh the striped squirrel be
cause it has two large white stripes running along its back. These
are very abundant in the United States and one sees them scurrying
rapidly away to the rocks that form their shelter. Their skins are
much esteemed for the beautiful contrast that the two white stripes
make with the dark tobacco color of the rest of their bodies and they
are used to make mantles and tippets for ladies just as they use
rarer furs. The flying squirrel is as common in America as in North
ern Europe and is smaller than the chip-munk and has the power of
sustaining itself in the air in leaping from one tree to another by
means of a skin that stretches from its front to its hind legs. A
female was given to me in Boston by Doctor Clarke one inch from
its nose to the commencement of its tail, which was four inches long,
flat with round flgure, and extending about an inch in width. The
skin of the back was in color a gray brown, and that of the stomach
white and the skin that extended from both sides of the body, and
scarcely discernable when the animal stands still, was furnished with
still longer fur. This squirrel is also easily domesticated and their
skins are common and of small value.
From Ipswich to Newbury-Port their are fifteen miles of very
beautiful road running through pleasant country with cultivated
fields. Newbury-Port is quite a large town situated in a valley of
the Merrimack river three miltes above the point where it empties into
?In 1741 the General Court passed an Act to prevent damage to Indian corn
and other grain. Selectmen were to allow four pence for each squirrel's head, six
pence for crows and three shillings a dozen for blackbirds. They were directed
to cut off the ears of the squirrels and the beaks of the birds.

102 LUIGI CASTIGLIONI IN 1785.
the sea. This river, which is more than a mile wide, is navigable for
vessels for eighteen miles from its raouth and for boats for more than
fifty, wood being brought to the city by means of floats from a hun
dred miles away. Newbury-Port has about three thousand inhabi
tants and is built partly of wood and partly of brick and has the ad
vantage of very pleasant surroundings. Its principal trade is in salt
fish and timber which they export to the West Indies and they bring
back in exchange molasses, that is here distilled into rum and aqua-
vite. The 26th I remained here being obliged to delay my trip by
an ancient law, which prohibits traveling on Sunday. The obser
vance of the Sabbath being one of the precepts most strongly taught
by the Protestant religion and particularly by the Presbjrterians ; it
being forbidden on that day not only to indulge in play or music and
in any kind of amusement for passing the time, but even to travel
and in church time to walk about. Certain persons are chosen by
the people called Wardens or Guardians who patrol the streets and
arrest any one disobeying the law ; and since they are greatly respect
ed on account of their office they impose ordinarily pecunary fines
on the transgressors, obliging those who wish to travel on Sunday to
set forth the reason why they must do so, and obliging them to desist
if their reasons for doing do not seem sufficient to them. These laws
contrary to the other principles of liberty and toleration now established
in the United States exist only in the states of Massachusetts, New
Hampshire, Connecticut, and in Rhode Island, where Puritanism, the
raost fanatical of all the sects established in America, has its great
strength. Never the less in Boston, and even in other cities and vil
lages, they do not elect the Guardians and strangers enjoy a perfect
liberty. The 27th I crossed the Merrimack river and continued my trip to
Salisbury and passed the boundary of Massachusetts and New Hamp
shire at Harapton.

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
THIS Salem clergyman and diarist was a person of unusual at
tainments whose rare benevolence, ardent patriotism, origin
ality and independence of character made him a marked man
in his generation. In years to come he will be best know by his in
valuable "Diary" which was edited by the writer of these lines, and
published in four volumes in Salem, in 1905-1914. It may be com
pared in vital interest and historical value with the diaries of Sam
uel Sewall and Samuel Pepys ; but it also possesses an individuality
quite its own. In his not infrequent journeys about the country he
minutely recorded every thing of interest that attracted his attention
and these descriptions are here reprinted from his published "Diary."
Monday, April 30, 1787. I went for Newbury in a chaise with
Lydia Mason & arrived at Newburyport at 12 o'clock. I put up at
Capt Noyes' dined with him & spent the evening with Mr. Murray.
I found hira a Scholar & a Gentleman. His Lady is of a most excel
lent person rather corpulent, but of a fine countenance. Tuesday was
the Quarterly Fast at the Presbyterian Church. The rigid doctrines
of the Confession were preached by Mr Murray in the morning, but
rendered tolerable by the uncommon eloquence of Mr. M. who ex
ceeds in delivery all his contemporaries of New E. He stands low &
appears to speak from memory, but really has his notes before him.
In prayer he lifts the hands & sometimes applies them to the breast
but uses no other gestures. In Sermon he is not in the least affected
in his manner, he triumphs over his audience, & supports attention
for three hours. In the afternoon the performahces by a Mr Strong
were contemptible. I dined on Wednesday with Mr Murray. His
affability is engaging. He is agreeable in spite of his doctrines. I
spent Tuesday evening with a Master Pike, who has in the press a
Treatise of Arithmetic. He is the Master of the Grammar School,
& of Cambridge University. I was also introduced to a Master Nor
ton in the South Writing School. He has raised himself by his moral
good qualities, & his attention to study in the public esteera. Under-
(103)

104 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
Stands french perfectly. The Printer Mr Mycall gave me some Types
from his own Foundery which did him honor. Mr Cary the Congre
gational minister preached on Thursday at his own house. A pious
and rational discourse. He is a man of wealth, & of kind manners,
as a better acquaintance shews. On Friday I returned, & arrived at
Salem, impressed by the hospitality of the Gentlemen, whose houses
I visited. ^ ^ ^ i|C fp ^ V "P
Feb. 21, 1789. I went for Newbury. The roads were much blocked
by large drifts of Snow which fell the night before, & in other places
the earth was left uncovered. After stopping at Fairfield's in Wen
ham, & Treadwell's in Ipswich, I arrived at 6 P. M. at Mr Jackson's.
This Gentleman had a son under my instruction for several months.
He owns a very large and elegant Mansion house on the road to
Amesbury from N. Port, on the north side of the road. At present
he occupies an house belonging to Mr N. Tracey built of brick in the
great street leading to the ferry. Town House, & first Church. I was
received with every mark of attention. Mrs Jackson is a second wife
with a large family of very amiable children. She is of the Tracey
family, & her father Patrick Tracey then lay at the point of death.
On Sunday Mr J. very politely waited upon me to the Meeting House,
in which the preachers are Messrs Cary & Andrews. The assembly
is the best in the Port, including the best families. The weather was
very bad, & therefore did not admit a general attendance. The build
ing has nothing to recommend it. In the evening we were favored
with the company of Master Pike, author of a late treatise on Arith
metic, Mr. S. Hooper, Dr Swett, &c. On Monday moming I waited
upon Dr Swett in company with Mr Jackson, & breakfasted. Dr
Swett is a polite scholar, & can recommend himself. I dined with
Revd Cary. This Gent : has been ordained 20 years, but is taken
from his public labours by a paralytic stroke, which prevents his con
versation, but has not otherwise impaired his memory, than by the loss
of words, which he recollects by counting the letters upon his fingers.
He has strong passions which he has remarkably governed. This
evening I drank Tea at Mr Pike's who teaches the Grammar School,
& enjoyed afterward my classmate Kilham at Mr. Jackson's. On

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 105
Tuesday morning I breakfasted with Mr S. Hooper, a merchant of
the place, and according to appointment Mr J. introduced me to
Mr Carter who has an amiable daughter. As I wished for an ac
quaintance there was a favorable opportunity, for Miss C. & her
Brother intending a journey to Boston on the upper road, it agreed
with my plan of a return home to accompany them. We passed by
Mr Noble's meeting house on the right, & then Mr Kimball's, & after
ward, Mr Tappan's on the left, upon an high hill, near to the elegant
Seat of Hon : Mr Dalton, & the farm of Mr S. Hooper, which were
on our right, & commanded a view of the Port & of the Ocean. We
stopped at Bradford & delivered Letters from Dr Tucker of Newbury,
one of the best characters of the age, to a celebrated Mr Balch, whose
good sense distinguished him in his ministerial character in his own
generation, & makes him venerable to posterity. He is above 80 years
of age, & has been past his public labours for 15 years. His wife is
blind, & deaf, but an uncommon share of chearfulness falls to the
good man's lot. Mr Dutch his colleague was at the house, when we
visited. We then went for the Upper Parish. The river was frozen
& there was an excellent path from Russel ferry to Haverhill, but it
being near night, & very cold we kept on Bradford side & put up at
Revd Mr AUen's. He addressed the eldest daughter of Dr Eliot of
Boston who died before his settlement, & is now married to a Mrs
Kent, raany years older than himself. They have one child & are
very hospitable. Haverhill is an agreable Town on the opposite side
of the river, which side being lower than on Bradford side, gave us a
good view over the river. After breakfast we proceeded to Andover.
There was a lecture appointed at Mr French's, but my company
formed an excuse for my leaving them after I had viewed the Acad
emy. It is an elegant building, situated upon an hill, in free air. In
the front are enclosed two rooms designed for private Schools, & a
Library, &c. Between there you pass into the Academy. Between
40 or 50 youth were present under the Preceptor Mr E. Pemberton,
& the Sub P. a Mr Abbot. The Preceptor is an amiable man & com
municative. His abilities are admirable for his profession. Above,
unfinished & fitted with benches for the religious Congregation, for
which an house has been rebuilding, was the Hall, & Theatre. It is

106 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
arched with great success for the exhibitions of the youth of the
academy. The Meeting House is finished with great elegance. It
has a tower but no steeple, & is painted in the best manner. . . .
Expenses beside horse & Slay, Essex Bridge /9d. Wenham, Is/.
Ips: 1/6. Newb: Bridge, /4d. New: Servant, 1/6. Shavg, /lOd.
Bradf: Horse, /lOd. Boardmans sert : 1/6. Danvers, Upton, 1/6.
tot: 9s/9d.
On Tuesday, March 29, [1789] I went for Andover. I dined at the
Black Horse in Middleton & while dinner was preparing I viewed the
Pond lying west of the road at a 1/4 of a miles distance. The Pond
raeasures a mile E. & W. & about 1/2 mile north & S. A road passes
by it on the north, on which side the pond is viewed with great
advantage from the top of an hill adjoining. After dinner I proceed
ed to Andover, & put up at Adams' on Haverhill's road. Then went
to Dr Kitteridge's 1/4 mile from the meeting house. He has a large
mansion house finished in front with great elegance with a plan of a
large yard. The House is on the S. side of a Hill of considerable ele
vation & commands a good prospect of the Great Road. After Tea
with the Dr, & his wife an Osgood, very deaf, & a sweet daughter
Sukey, I went in company with the Dr to Mr Chickering's. At this
house young Prat is confined. I found his delirium continued. I spent
the evening at Rev. Symmes, & found him an informed & agreeable
Gentleman. His health is very infirm. His wife was a sensible, &
kind woman. I lodged & breakfasted at the Doctor's, visited Pratt
again, took ray leave of the Parson, & left the town. I dined at E.
Fuller's a good farmer in Middleton. Visited Parson Smith, & drank
tea & lodged at Revd Wadsworth in Danvers. He is an ingenious
man & has a very amiable wife & family. On Thursday 11 o'clock
A. M. I reached Salem.
May 12th, 1789. Association met at Fuller's in Gloucester. The
road is at present through Chebacco, part of Ipswich. It is tolerable
till we reach the pond on our right. From thence it is two miles to
the inlet, upon which the meeting house stands. The Bridge is con-

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 107
venient, but the Causeway beyond, being overflowed by the tide,
consists of so many naked cross pieces, & stones, as make it very
disagreable. After we are over we tum to the left in a bad road &
in three miles reach the Meeting house. It is the most rocky parish
I ever beheld. 12 Clergymen of the Association were present. We
returned on the same day. In Chebacco are two meeting houses
near to each other, which are improved alternately as the age of the
houses & their size suit the season. They are monuments of religious
dissentions in that place, which is still remarkable for its zeal. Mr.
Cleveland, to whom they are indebted for their present character,
was severely handled by Mayhew, & tho' a man of small abilities has
interfered in many printed controversies & his daughter in the zeal
of Night meetings was overtaken by temptation, & fell.
On Saturday, Aug. 1, 1789 visited Topsfield, one of the most pleas
ing towns in our neighborhood. After dinner Mr Porter with Mrs
Orne went with me to a pond about two miles above the Meeting
house on the road to Boxford. At a Mr Hood's at the upper end of
the pond we were entertained with berries &c., &c., &c. The Pond
runs nearly with the road in a supposed north & south direction 1/2
a mile, & is nearly of equal width throughout, being about a 1/4 of
a mile under, in both directions the given distances. The approach
to the pond upon the west side is best, but the greater part is swampy.
We travelled through the swamp, by which we were prepared with
out ceremony to wade in for the Pond Lillies. We returned for Tea
to Mr Porter's. The sides of the Pond are very shoal, which makes
fishing with angling rods very difficult, & there was no boat at this
time in the pond. Mr Porter caught one Pickerel.
*|C sp #^ ^ SfC ^ Sf^ ^
July 28, 1790. This afternoon I went to ride with Nancy Townsend,
one of my singers. We passed Pickman's farm towards Philips Beach.
We turned to the right in the road from Lynn to Marblehead, & then
in a few roods crossed at the left. There are several valuable Farms
on this Spot. We arrived in a bad road of one mile & 1/2 at Philips
Beach so called, about 1/6 of a mile long. We then alighted & passed
bars & descended upon Blaney's Beach which was of greater length.

108 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
I then passed alone over another headland & crossed King's or Need-
ham's Beach, above 1/2 a mile long, & was upon the next headland
within 1/4 of a mile of the Great Nahant Beach. I returned then &
received my Companion, & stopped at Mr Reid's on Browne's Farm,
now in the possession of his widow. He conducted me to a Beach at
the bottom of his farm, exceeding in length either of the other Beaches
excepting Nahant. We entered through land cast up by the sea,
about midway of the Beach & North of a Pond formed by the beach
cast up & covering about nine acres. It is drained of the greatest
body of water, which is cast into it by a storm, through a ditch opened
every time. At each end of the Beach the banks are high, & steep
& closed with large rocks particularly at the northern end, projecting
to Ram Island. Pig & Sunken rocks are directly off this Beach, &
the Light House of Boston on the south view. The farm consists
of 375 acres, & is this year in a very flourishing state, & is cultivat
ed in the following manner. 20 acres of Indian corn, 20 acres
of Barley, & Buck Wheat, Rye blasts, 3 acres of flax, & 4 of
Potatoes. 50 head of Cattle is the principal Stock, 29 Cows are
milked. A very few sheep are on the Farm. The Farmer has ten
children and is a Native of Woburn. We returned, & passed off to
the right & came into Lynn Road 1/2 a mile nearer to Marblehead.
We then turned round into Salem Road, & came by Gardner's miUs
homewards. There are many little boats laying along above the
Beach. These are the property of men in the neighbouring towns,
who come down in the months of April, May, & June, & fish for cod,
haddock, perch, &c. with considerable success. They will accomo
date frora 8 to 10 men on the seats, & resemble whale boats, tho'
raost have flat bottoms. The shore is broken from Browne's Beach
towards Marblehead neck, & Tinker's Island which were in full view
on the head north of Browne's Beach. There are short landing
places between the projecting naked rocks. I suspect that little com
pany visits this place, from the readiness to serve without pay, & so
licitations, &c. Barn 96 by 36 feet.
3|C Sp Sp vp S|* Sfi *|C ¦!*
Sept. 22, 1790. At 1/2 past 6 in the morning I went from Salem
for Haverhill, to attend a Review of the Regiment, & to visit Capt.

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 109
Elkins, who is superintending the building of a vessel. I arrived at
Mrs Porter's Topsfield, about nine miles from Salem, & made my
first stage. I then passed the meeting house on my left, & turned at
the burying ground 1/4 mile beyond, keeping the most direct road,
avoiding the road leading to Ipswich & Newbury on the right, &
to Andover, &c. on the left. I passed Topsfield Pond on my right,
& went from it at the upper end. This pond I had visited before.
Within a few miles I passed a beautiful & small pond nearly round
& bold banks on the left, & afterwards another on the same side,
having made a mistake in turning to the left, instead of keeping on,
about 7 miles from the ferry. I soon mounted a Hill, which gave
me a sight of Haverhill steeple 4 miles before I reached the ferry, &
this part of the road was worst, mountainous, but under repair. When
I arrived at the ferry, I found that the Review was to be on Bradford
side, & left my carriage, but afterwards by sending for it I was in
volved in several perplexities from receiving a wrong one. I carried
letters to a Mrs Carleton, who was formerly a Bowes, & of the Brown
family, sister of Mrs Homans. I found Capt Elkins at Herod's Tav
ern below the Meeting house. The Landlord was a neighbour in
Boston, & has a fine family of 9 children. I put up at this house, &
found the best connections in the place, & very kind treatment. I
visited the ship yard. I found only the Vessel of Capt Elkins on the
Stocks. She is not of great burden. The Town has many good
houses. An extensive prospect, being situate upon rising ground,
descending to the river ; upon whose bank is the great Street. The
Street extends a full mile but the group of house are at the upper
end, & the dwelling Houses chiefly above the Street. At the lower
end, is an elegant Seat of the Saltonstals, now the property of Mr
Watson of Plimouth. It has about 30 acres of land, an ancient row
of Elms, & Buttons, & most engaging Prospect of the River and ad
jacent country. At the upper end of the street is the Baptist Meet
ing House, the only respectable assembly of that denomination in the
County, & that is lessening. It was f ound'd about 30 years ago dur
ing the ministry of Mr Bernard, by a Mr Hezekiah Smith, who is the
present pastor. It is rauch out of repair, as are houses in general of
that denomination. The asserably Room is in an unfinished building.

110 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
Below is a Shop, & the entrance into the Room is by a flight of Stairs
behind the Shop. As it is upon the Street, it opens into a Gallery
with a handsome painted balustrade. Over the fire place at the op
posite end is a loft for the band, & the whole Room is finely arched,
& convenient. The drawing Room is behind. The Congregational
Church has a most excellent site. It is facing you as you ascend a
street leading from the main street into the Country. The Houses
round are pleasant & in a good style. It is painted white, has a
steeple & smaU bell, which rings at one & nine in the evening. The in
terior part of the Church is without elegance, or any distinction. From
the Street we are conducted a few rods back into the Duck Manufac
tory set up & carried on by a Mr Blodget, a very ingenious mechanic,
of some rank, formerly in N. Hampshire. His looms are constructed
so as every part by pins, & wedges may be brought to any convenient
form, & his spinners use the method which has in substance been
adopted from them in Salem. The wheel which turns all the spindles
may be assisted by the feet & hands at discretion, & is turned below.
By a small weight he causes a stand for a lamp or candle to retum,
& it is conducted out by a wire fastened to the Spinner, at a conven
ient distance. He has eight looms going, & room for eight more.
He has many good specimens of his Duck, which by a smaU anchor
he lays in the river for necessary soaking, &c. There were three
distilleries, but one of them is changed into a Brewery, & with con
siderable success. The water of the river is pronounced very fit for
the purpose. In this Town resides our Chief Justice Sergeant. Back
of the Meeting House & on the side is the house of the Revd Mr Shaw.
The scene was engaging while I was present. The River was alive
with Boats. The opposite Shore crowded with Spectators & every
diversion was pursued which rural life admits. The Regiment coh-
sisted of 800 rank & file, & the Company of Horse. The men were
well dressed. The Col. named Brickett, at whose house was an en
tertainment for the Clergy, the Officers dining at Bradford on the
opposite side of the River. He is by profession a Physician. There
was a manly freedom in the higher class of people, but a strange
contrast to the manners of the lower people, who being employed,
instead of forming upon the rivers on rafts, & lumbering, have very

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. Ill
much the manners of the people in the province of Maine, & have
their distinguishing vices, intemperance & want of punctuality in
their dealings. The soil on the road through Boxford was light, but
better in Bradford. At Haverhill the river is 1/8 of a mile wide, &
the tide flows commonly about 4 feet. We are carried over in Gon
dolas, when we have carriages. I saw only the young ladies of the
place. 23. I retumed as far as Newbury. I came down Haverhill side
with an intention to pass at Cottle's ferry, 4 miles below the Town.
There is a ferry called Russel's 3 miles, entering the road by a Brick
house on the right. But as the waterman lives on the other side, &
Cottle on this, they establish it as a rule to pass down by Cottle's &
retum by Russel's ferry. After passing these ferries there are two
roads, one on the bank of the river, & the other through the country,
the latter being preferable for carriages I chose it but lost the beau
tiful prospect of the river, with which I had hitherto been entertained.
At the first turning out I was soon brought into the lower road again
& found I had passed a group of houses on the banks, but about 5
1/2 miles from Amesbury I went 1/2 mile directly from the river,
& lost every good prospect till I reached the Town. Upon passing
on both sides I found on this the prospect most extensive but the
roads are very hilly on this side. I soon entered the upper parish
which has an elegant meeting house, pediment on front, & lately
painted of a light colour. I passed this on my left, and a few miles
below passed on the left the lower Meeting House much out of re
pair. This House was formerly used by Mr Hibbert a Presbyterian,
who has withdrawn with his party, & built a House a little back from
this spot, & has lately been rejected for intemperance. They settled a
BeU, a most extravagant preacher, who is also dismissed. The Country
is not the most fertile, it is much more productive on the opposite
banks. They plant Indian Corn & sow flax. I saw no experiments on
other grain. As we pass we see at a mile's distance on our left Salisbury
meeting House, & as there is a lock of the river between SaUsbury &
Amesbury on the banks of the River at the entrance there is a con
venient draw Bridge, which has a good effect as seen from the River.
Several vessels of considerable burden were upon the Stocks, & many

112 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
under repairs in view as we passed. Having passed Amesbury ferry
we ascend an hill, which was then in the hands of the Surveyors & at
2 1/2 miles distance lies Newburyport. A small Island shews itself
just below the ferry, & so another at a short distance below Haver
hill tho' the latter is the largest, tho' not the boldest of the two.
From the ferry the road becomes more pleasant as you approach the
Town. The soil at flrst is barren & upon a barren plain on the right
stands a deserted Meeting House once improved by a curious Mr
Noble. Soon we pass delightful Houses, & the Seats of Messieurs
Jackson & Tracey entering the Town. The north is thinly settled
& little cultivated. There are some noble buildings belonging to
private Gentlemen. The Church of England has a forbidding appear
ance & the Steeples have no good effect. The best view of the Town
is from the Powder house hill & from the water, but in no place does
it group well. From the country it is too open, & from the water
the best buildings are hid. They have lately erected a New School
House in the High Street near the Pond, which has a belfry & is very-
convenient & handsome. The benches rise from the centre. No
forms go against the sides of the building. The rise is one foot on
each side. The day was appointed for the Military Review. The other
part of the Regiment was reviewed on Monday at Salisbury & we
had only the town companies. Some points of honor induced the
South Company to club their firelocks & retire from the parade, tho'
they submitted to an inspection in the afternoon. Three companies
with the Artillery paraded in High Street in the afternoon. I drank
tea with Mr Moses Hoit, & supped with Dr Swett in company with
Esqr. Atkins. I visited Mr Jackson, and my more intimate friends.
At Mycall's printing office I saw the best furnished office I had ever
seen, tho' the preference is decidedly given in favour of Thomas of
Worcester who has lately made very rich additions to his types.
Sept. 24. I breakfasted with Esqr. Atkins & at 10 set out for Salem.
I dined at Treadwell's at Ipswich, returned through Wenham, con
versed with Revd. Swain, & stopped in Beverley at the Manufactory
& soon afterwards was joined by our member Mr Goodhue, & two
Gentlemen from Connecticut, Judge Ailsbury of the Senate, & Sher
man of the House. Two Jennies were at work below, which carried

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 113
about 70 spindles each. Several looms were at work, & the remark
able circumstance to us was the moving of the shuttle by Springs,
which gives great velocity, & allows the greatest number of strokes.
Above all the carding machine was most curious as it was different
from all our observations. Two large cylinders of two feet diameter
move in contact, & upon them other cylinders of different diameters,
& these are covered with fine cards. These convey the wool when
carded to a knife which cuts it & to a smooth cylinder whose upper
service is made to assume as many projections as correspond to the
operations of the knife, & bring away the carded wool. The speci
mens of the cloth were various & good. The carding machine cards
fifteen pounds of wool in a day easily, said Mr John Cabot, who
waited upon us, & recommended his Manufactory to the patronage
of Government. I reached Salem before Sundown, & waited upon
the Gentlemen to see Mr Symonds aet 99.
Mr Mycall is now printing the last volumes of the "Children's
friend," a valuable work in Schools. Expences on the Journey, pass
ing ferry alone a copper, carriage at Haverhill /7d. Expences at
Herod's 6s/. At Amsbury ferry /7d. At Ipswich 1/8. Beverley
Bridge /9d. Expense of Sulkey, 15s/.
April 1, 1791. Set out for Andover by the way of Topsfield &
Boxford. This road is judged the best for a Carriage, tho' the dis
tance be three miles greater in this road, than through Middleton.
At Topsfield we passed the Meeting house on our left. The Meeting
House on our right would have carried us through the old Parish, Revd.
Holyoke's, to Andover in less distance but worse road. We kept the
left hand road, as the most direct, passing several Pond's, Pritchards
on the right 2 miles, Wood's on the left 5 miles, &c. The roads
which go out on the right turn off much. At 6 miles distance we
leave the right hand path & take left at an Oak tree in the road, the
right leaditig to Haverhill. We keep the left 6 miles to Andover in
the most direct path. Four miles from Andover we see the north
Parish Meeting House of Boxford on our right, at 1/2 mile's distance.
Here is a Farm, & Dwelling House in good order, possessed by Gideon
Tyler. We come out 1/2 mile below Andover north Meeting House.

114 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
As our visit was intended for Dr Kitteridge, whom my companion
Capt. Becket intended to consult, we passed by the Dr's House, &
went to the Public House 1/4 mile below formerly kept by Craig,
since by Adams, & now by Bimsley Stevens, lately Goal Keeper, &
Deputy Sheriff in Salem. He was a native of Andover. The road
was remarkably good for the season of the year. There are several
Saw Mills on the road. At two we stopped, to which roads lead on
the left, going to Andover, at 1/8 mile distance. The Buildings are
decent, the land not the best. In the afternoon we visited Fry's Hill,
nearly south of the Meeting House in north Andover, above a mile
in the road. The Hill is very high, & steep towards the road. Quite
round for its height, «& its greatest length N. & S. It overtops the
adjacent country. It being a fair day we had an extensive prospect.
Milton hills lay from us in the line of a hill 2 miles off, & were hid
den. On every other quarter the eye might range without obstruc
tion. N. W. bore the Wachuset of Princeton, distant 60 miles in the
road, & N. of it the Great Menadnock near Dublin in N. Hampshire.
On the N. we saw Adrimeticus in the province of Maine, & on the
E. Pidgeon Hill, Cape Ann & the Ocean from which we were distant
above 30 miles. In the valley we saw on the north the Merimack
distant at the nearest point 3 miles, & the Shawshin which empties
into it about 1 mile & 1/2 below the N. Meeting House of Andover.
Methuen meeting house & houses were seen from the Public House,
& from the Hill, & lays on the other side of the river Merimack.
N. Parish of Haverhill appeared in full view joined to Methuen, &
above the Houses of Dracut. The Academy on the S. W. appeared
at 2 miles distance, & in the vale below the S. Meeting House finished
with a Tower. On S. E. we saw Topsfield Meeting House & Spire,
& the Road through which we had passed. We were kindly received
at Mr Fry's by his wife, who was a Mackey of Salem. After tea we
went down to the River, just below the entrance of the Shawshin in
to the Merrimack. The River Shawshin flows through Tewksbury
into Andover, & enters above a mile below the N. Meeting House of
Andover into the Merrimack, opposite to Methuen. The River is 40
rods wide & where it is entered by the Shawshin there is a ford of
gravel which is passed in the summer season without hazard, th o

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 115
the water below be of great depth. On the opposite side of the Mer
rimack, but a Uttle above, enters another small river of considerable
course from N. Hampshire. The Honourable Judge Phillips, Revd.
Symmes & Dr. Kitteridge visited us upon our return. Our Landlord
attended us with his perspective glass in our excursions. We visited
the Training field on the N. of the Doctor's House.
April 2. From the Doctor's at 9 we set out for home. The stones
from Andover have a uniform appearance until we reach Topsfield,
especially those used in the walls of the enclosures, being of the
appearance of iron mould & as if lately dug from the earth, which
upon the first sight of them we imagined. Going and coming we
made our Stages at Baker's^ Topsfield. I visited Mrs. Porter, a sen
sible woman formerly an Allen. I saw my old classmate Wildes upon
the road, and a Mr Gould, M. A. We reached Salem at Dinner. At
Topsfield Hill may be seen the Spires of Marblehead. We saw men
on their rafts passing down the Merrimack River. We observed the
shifting banks, loosing on the Methuen side & gaining below on An
dover side. We were informed that there were now at the Andover
Academy 66 youth, & in last summer 73. That board is at Judge
Phillip's 9s., Revd. French's 8s., Esqr. Abbot's 7s. 6d. and Tuition
not exceeding Is. pr week. We observed the jealousy of the Parishes.
The North Parish complain that there own Grammar School is neg
lected. The Parson observes that Academies are too numerous,
that their model is not purely republican, & that an antient institu
tion was best for general knowledge, that there should be provision
for a Grammar School in every town.
********
April 21, 1791. Past 8 A. M. set out for Newbury. At Beverley
saw Revd. Oliver who told me Lee, the Methodist, was preaching in
his parish with some disaffected persons. This parson is much
prejudiced against the Arminians ; not much informed. At Wenham,
Revd. Swain assures me that Mr P. of Lynn had taken freedoms with
women in Beverley, while an occasional preacher & that some charges
were probably just, so far as to tarrying late, kissing, &c. At Ips
wich, Revd. Cutler was moving a Barn he had purchased, nearer his
Mansion House. The Parish turned out with their teams on the

116 REV. WILLLAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
occasion. I visited Mr Frisbie, a pious & useful minister & dined at
Treadwell's. Reached Newbury at three o'clock, & drank tea with
Mrs Maley, formerly a Mason. Hon. Mr Jackson shewed me his
elegant mansion House. It is situate in the upper Street above the
Church towards Amesbury ferry. It has a spacious lawn behind it
with a gradual descent, & is near the house of John Tracey. The
banks slope from the House. The front door opens into the hall, &
the flight of stairs is on the south side. The division between the
chambers, is formed into a convenient apartment of the whole length
of the building for favorite amusements of dancing, &c. On the
north side is a wing which has a granary, chambers communicating
with the nursery, &c. On the other side a piazza was intended but
not built. The Cellars are in excellent order for all domestic uses,
such as cooking, brewing, washing. There is a bathing room under
the apartments of the nursery, &c. He intends to return to it next
week. Doors without number, and conveniences beyond account
present to view & we find it one of the best finished houses of wood
in the Country. In the evening visited Revd Murray,* who has
several students in Divinity in his House. Langdon on the Revela
tion of John, was our Theological Subject. Mr Murray is engaged
in correcting the press for Dr Huntington of Connecticut, upon the
subject of the atonement. Mr Murray has lately published his dis
courses on Original sin, which with those on the Origin of Evil & on
Justification, make a large volume. His health is impaired by the
immoderate length of his pulpit addresses. I lodged with Capt
Noyes. 22. I visted Revd Cary,t & had familiar conversation on the un
happy disunion among the Clergy of the Town. They utterly re
fuse each other civilities, at least, a Mr Spring will not support a paU,
or attend a funeral at which Mr Murray joins or officiates. With
Mr J. Tracey, I went to Church it being Good Friday. Dr. Bass, the
Parson, & intended Bishop. His countenance is pleasing, his reading
good & his Sermon full of instruction. He is pleased with the wit
?Rev. John Murray, the Presbyterian, popularly called "Damnation" Murray
to distinguish him from "Salvation" Murray, his Universalist contemporary.
tRev. Thomas Cary, pastor of the First Church at Newburyport.

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 117
of Charles the 2d, & has the variety, but not ill nature of South. He
entertained us with the character of Judas Iscariot. He observed all
his faults with satyre, but of the price of his villany he observed,
that it proved him a mean fellow, for as they would bid high for his
friend, he ought to have made them pay dear for him at least, & not
sell him in an hurry for 30 shillings, at a price below a horse, or
even a dog. I dined with Mrs Maley, & spent an hour with my
Classmate Kilham.* This Gentleman, possessed with good abilities,
with a disposition not apt to conform to the world, & a zealous ante-
federalist, is declining in his business under his own favorite passion.
He informed me that our Classmate Rholf had preached, after a
humble retirement & study of 15 years. We had not his perform
ances from Judges, his popularity is greater in his prayers, than in
his Sermons. He is gone to Preach at Cambridge. At Mr Mycall's
the printer, I find orthodox publications multiply. Besides the works
of Mr Murray, & Dr Huntington above mentioned, Mr Murray is
printing a sermon on the death of Blind Prince, a Clergyman who
died at Newbury, & is buried in the vault with Whitefield. His most
remarkable trait is blindness. But while our best sermons common
ly rise no higher than 400 at an impression, I am assured 1500 are
engaged. A Mr Lyon of Machias, at the extreme part of Maine &
a composer in Music, has pubUshed the first number of his daily
meditations, including one month. It has Mr Murray's recommend
ation. A Mr Bradford of Rowley has also a Sermon in the press up
on total depravity. These events of the winter may enable us to
judge the state of religious opinions at least in this part ofthe County.
Mr Mycall proposed to reprint my Sermon delivered at Boston, from
this circumstance that it was preached first in Newbury Port, &
was deemed not to be Gospel.
********
July 14, 1791. Went to Cape Ann to attend the association.
Found very few members present, it being very hot. McKeen of
Beverley was ready to preach on the accasion. A large Choir of
Singers were collected from the several congregations. The Preacher
*Dr. Daniel Kilham, bom at Wenham, studied medicine with Dr. Holyoke of
Salem, and became an apothecary at Newburyport.

118 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
discoursed upon the doctrine of future punishment, the Subject, which
since 1763 has kept the Town in confusion. He handled the subject
without the least degree of ingenuity, & in a manner suited to affront
one party & not gratify the other. Upon my return to the house I
blamed the introduction of the subject, & the inconsistent manner in
which it was located {sic). But I was alone. . . . After dinner
we were introduced to drink tea at Mr Rogers', the first merchant in
the place, who has a numerous family, & preserves unusual vivacity,
while above sixty years of age. In the evening we were conducted
to a Mr Sergeants' at whose house Music was prepared for the even
ing. There was a considerable number of gentlemen & Ladies & very
handsome entertainment. The instrumerital & vocal music were
well performed. We have nothing like it in Essex. The Conviv
iality is remarkable. The pieces were of different classes. At eleven
we retired. The hospitality of Capt Rogers secured me at his house,
and the expectation of a chearful day to succeed, made a succession
pf very pleasurable emotions. He has a fine wife, & gay children,
who contributed their full share to the entertainment, & the pleasure.
15. This morning it was agreed to go to Eastern Point, which
makes the entrance to the Harbour, above a mile below the Town.
The harbour is formed by the Fort Hill, a little peninsular on the
west, which projects boldly before the Town, & Rocky Neck which
runs westerly from the eastern point. The entrance is not wide,
but of sufficient depth of water. From the town is a ledge called
Duncan's Ledge which runs towards Rocky Neck in a southerly di
rection, within which is the Head of the Harbour, a bason not much
used, but which opens into a Cove in Rocky Neck, called Smuggling
Harbour from a particular use made of it before the War. It runs
also towards Sandy Bay & there might easily in a valley be formed an
inlet, through a communication which the Sea sometimes has opened.
About half a mile without the Fort Hill is "Tenpound Island," not
containing an acre of ground, & between which & Eastern point there
is a communication at the lowest tides, & many difficult rocks. Be
low on eastern point is a Ledge called Black Bess, & nearer the point
Dog Rocks. Without the Point about one mile, eastward is Brace's
Cove. It has a Bluff head on the western side, which is a large

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 119
& lofty rock. It has a Ledge on the eastern side & Rocks without
it. It has often proved fatal to mariners, & the Cove been mistaken
for the entrance into Cape Ann Harbour. The Cove is clear after
you are within the eastern Ledge. It enters almost half a mile, &
by a narrow Beach is separated from a Pond, which extends almost
across the eastern point, which is joined to the main by this Beach
formed by the sea, a few rods wide, & by the road not much wider
on the side towards Cape Ann Harbour. From Brace's Rock the
lights at Thatcher's Islands are in full view, above a leagues distance.
The Farm of Eastern point, purchased last year by Daniel Rogers,
who was with us, is very rough. There is a delightful grove of Oaks,
&c. within the point, to which company resorts and enjoys a fine air
in the warmest weather. The Farm is very rough, affords pasture,
but there was no tiUage land beyond the Pond towards the Point.
About 200 acres lay towards the point, & the rest, amounting to 300
acres was sold together for 320 pounds. The tenant pays an annual
rent of 27£. The House is on the road by the pond, after you have
passed it going to eastern Point, not a mile from the Grove. Oppo
site to eastern Point at the entrance is a Rocky Shore called Norman's
Woe, & about a league westerly near the shore may be seen Kettle
Island, a small island, & a mile beyond on the same shore Egg rock,
as you go towards Manchester. Our party consisted of above 60
persons of both sexes. With Col Pearce in a skif we caught several
dozen of perch, & after two we dined in a friendly manner. Another
party in a Sloop larger than our own furnished us with Cod from the
Bay, & after dinner till Tea parties were engaged in Walking, danc
ing, singing, & Quoiting, & Swinging & every amusement we could
imagine. The Poets story of Twandillo was realized. There was
but one instrument of Music with us, which was a fiddle brought by
its owner to pick up a few coppers. To see him play with it upon
his head, under his arm, &c., furnished a pleasure which the happi
ness of ignorance may innocently occasion.
Hark, — his tortured catgut squeals
He tickles every string, to every note
He bends his pliant neck. —
The fond yielding Maid
Is tweedled into Love.

120 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
We set out about ten in the morning, and arrived before nine in
the evening safe at the same wharf. And what deserves notice, not
a single accident, not an angry word, occasioned the least interrup
tion to so large a party. The principal Gentlemen were in this party,
Daniel Rogers, Esqr, his two sons John & Charles, Capts Soames,
Tucker, Sargeant, Beach, Col. Pearce, Major Pearson, Master Harkin,
Mr Parsons, &c. I went to Tea at Capt Beach's elegant House near
the meeting House, & was conducted into the several apartments
to observe the neatness which prevailed under the pretence of exam
ining an excellent collection of pictures. On the day before I had
visited his excellent & large Family Garden, & Rope walk. I lodged
at Esqr Rogers, who collected his family & finished the scene by an
act of devotion.
16. In the morning I arose before the family, & set off for home,
& breakfasted at Manchester, & reached Salem after eleven. While
we were on eastern point, another party, with whom was the Revd
Mr Murray went into the Bay after Cod & continued off the point all
day. The religious controversy is not so far settled as to admit a
coalition between the Clergymen, tho' it is greatly promoted among
the people. Passing a farm house in Manchester I observed a young
girl of 14 years, & asked what the name of the rock was directly be
fore the door, about 1/4 of a mile from the shore. She answered
she had never heard, & seemed to wonder at the question. Was this
ignorance, in her, or impertinence in myself ?
********
Aug. 8, 1791. Went with a party to Baker's Island [Salem harbor]
to bring away the tools, materials, &c. which remained after the
finishing of the Beacon. We were in a deep fog on our passage down
but we hit the island most exactly. The Beacon is 57 feet to the
top of the Ball, of two feet diameter, & the Ball is painted black, ex
cept a part on the top which was neglected & remains white. The
Body is conical & upon a diameter of nineteen feet, to the altitude
of 10 feet is formed a convenient room. The door is on the south,
narrow, & painted red, as is the building, but the battens at the
door, white, that it might more easily be found. The window with
a shutter is on the east, a foot square, & there is no other provision

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 121
made for ventilating it. Of this I complained but we attempted in
vain to get into the dead flat projection of the head, of one foot, into
which many holes ought to have been made. The projection of the
head was to have been round, but as there were objections to clap-
boarding, it was shingled, & so is reduced to an octagon form like
the Cone of the Building, & each length of shingling into so many
small projections, amounting to four. It has an awkward effect.
The whole is a generous & otherwise well executed design. The
foundation stones are very miserably laid. Upon the island, I tra
versed the whole, there are a few miserable remains of the House
which was in good order since I can well remember. The Barn has
left its sills, & the top entire stands upon the naked posts. From
the house, northeasterly a few rods, are the remains of the well, &
along the stone wall, which crosses the island, near the barn, till you
reach the eastern shore & then find the spring of excellent water,
which supplies the cattle. Our amusement was to form a raft of
spars, boards, &c. to bring off the shingles, waste boards, ropes, &c.,
a full load & we enjoyed the employment tho' a wet one. We were
without tinder, & to remedy the defect we rubbed a piece of pine
coal, till we reached the part not entirely charred, & we had desirable
success. A plenty of fish & fine appetites. We observed the channel
between Eagle Island, & the Gooseberries, entering between Baker's
Island & Hardy Rocks. Eagle Island is said to have contained, a
few years since, 4 acres of mowing land, & three acres are said to
be upon Nahant Rock. Coney Island has but one & 1/2, of little
use, the grass being very coarse, & the soil stoney. The Goose
berries have a little verdure with fine effect. And the Bank of Eagle
Island being covered with verdure, & of a sudden slope, has a very
good effect. We returned & landed at sundown, with Mr Wards
boat, at his Wharf. Our Commander was Capt B. West, & Capt W.
Patterson, our Crew, Capts Elkins & Chipman, with the Carpenters
& Servants, six in number. We went with pleasure, & returned
pleased. ********
Aug. 29, 1791. At Mr W. Gray's request I undertook to convey
in Newhall's Coach three young Frenchmen to the Dummer Academy

122 ' REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
under the care of the Reverend Isaac Smith. Their names were
Barrett, Bonneville, & Morin, all of Martinico, & addressed to Mr
Gray. We arrived at 11 at the Academy. Just before there had
been two french youth from Newbury Port, but the disputes became
so high from the turbulent temper of one of them, as to throw the
whole Academy into confusion. The youth had this day retired, &
the alarm was yet in all its violence from the bold threatenings of
the french youth. After a fair representation I engaged a Mr Hale
to receive them, & the Preceptor admitted them members of the
Academy. The common price of board pr week is 6/, of Tuition
one. There are above 300 acres of lands laying within the Arms of
Parker River, which constitutes the foundation of Governor Dummer,
& forms the principal support of the Preceptor. The Mansion House
is a bold object, & is put into good repair. The rooms are divided
very unequally, but from their height, & connection with a large
entry, do not fail of a very good effect. The Academy is repaired,
& the whole forms a good object. Tho' the Building is not equal to
Andover, the Group is as pleasing. I dined with the Preceptor, and
after 3 o'clock set out on my return. I found at Rowley the meeting
House filled with people, & upon enquiry, I learnt that a M. Milton,
a pupil of Lady Huntington, was to make the prayer and a Mr James,
a noted travelling Methodist, was to preach. We should not imagine
our boasted liberality was real, if we should see the country upon a
particular scale. On our return towards Wenham, we saw the three
fine boys which came a few years since at a birth, sporting together
on the side of the road. We did not know this circumstance of their
birth, till their good manners made us enquire after them of the
Coachman. We reached Salem at Sundown, & was informed on tbe
road, that the French youth Duval de Monville, who had lived with
me, had died not long since. The information is said to be by a
Brother at Newbury. ********
Sept. 13, 1791. I went for Fuller's, Gloucester, in company with
Mr MacKeen. We passed by way of upper Beverley in Monserat
quarter. The road for three miles is very good, upon Taylor's turn
ing to the left not so good, till we come to Dodge's Row, on Wenham

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 123
Neck. We then passed to the right over a bridge through the mea
dows, covered with some excellent Willows. We then left a Road
to Little Comfort on the right, & proceeded to Chabacco. Till we
reached the Pond, the road is tolerable, & at some distance beyond.
Here we saw a rope-walk, but could not be informed by whom em
ployed, & in what manner. It was a curious object at this distance
from a port, tho' it might be of special use in the small cordage of
the Fishery below. After entering Chebacco, the road is winding, &
we arrive at a Bridge, considerably high, tho' small, & the descent
is relieved by cross pieces, which give not a very pleasing motion to
a carriage. We then pass a causeway over the marshes, nearly 1/4
of a mile, which being left low to be overflowed by the tide, & formed
with cross pieces, many of whose ends now rise from the ground,
& the stones being loose on the top, make a very uneasy passage.
We turned in 1/4 of a mile to the left, & continued in that course
two miles, till we reached the foot of the hill, then leaving the road
to the left our course was over the hill. But for a year past the old
road, has been cut by the rain which in torrents has cut it out be
tween the rocks several feet, & a road is made through a gate on the
right, through which we might pass. But separating from my
Companion, I took a little boy into my Sulkey as a guide, who leav
ing me at the foot of the hill, took a path to the left, & as they use
no chaises, directed me in the foot path in the old road. I endea
voured to mount a most frightful hill, & soon getting out of my
Sulkey, was obliged to lead the trembling beast up to the summit,
with no other injury than his treading upon one of my feet which
gave me considerable pain. Below the hill was the place of our
destination. We found the Parson with a large family in the vale
of Contentment, & a most frightful country. At twelve we went
to the meeting. I performed the prayers, & Brother Prince
the Sermon. There was a very neat congregation. The music was
very good, & a propriety of conduct became subject of general ob
servation. After dinner, & some familiar conversation, the terrors
of the road, & the hurr[y]ing night came into our minds. Three
only of the company had resolution to set out. Brother Hubbard & I
being in Sulkeys, & McKeen on Horseback, were directed from the

124 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
top of the Hill to the left, & by consulting each other in a mile's dis
tance we reached Squam road, & the Road to the Harbour, entring
on the right by a Mill, & were directed to enquire for Haskell's the
Hatter, if we ever visited the place again. Here we found a Hatter
shop on the right, & on the left a decent House of entertainment,
with a sign of a "Bird in the Hand is worth two in the Bush." We
continued this road till we came to the place at which we turned to
the left in going & then pursued our former rout, home. We stopped
at McKeen's at Tea, & there I left Mr Hubbard, & retumed home
alone at half past nine. Mr. McKeen judges his Meeting House to
be above 40 feet elevation from high water mark, & of greater ele
vation than the Meeting House of the upper Parish. We remarked
the deception upon plains of distance, & the account of the Hunts
men, that a fouling piece requires a greater elevation in the meadows,
because the earth & water draws down the bullet. Bee's, Coy's,
Round & Gravelly Ponds are not on this Road, but the great Che
bacco Pond on our right going to Chebacco, is between us & them.
I wished to see them, & if time would have permitted should have
attempted it. The Methodists have given a very serious alarm to
the Orthodox. Cleveland has abused them in the Ipswich Hamlet
pulpit, upon a lecture to which he was invited by Dr Cutler. At
Manchester there was a curious interview. Some of the inhabitants,
wishing to hear the Methodists, proposed in town meeting, that up
on the application of two freeholders the Committee should be obliged
to open the meeting house to any Preachers they should chuse to
introduce. It was not thought prudent to deny this request, & there
fore when the vote was passed it was proposed to qualify it with the
clause, provided no regularly ordained minister of the neighborhood
should be in Town. It was accepted in this form. Soon after Lee
& Smith, the Methodists sent word that they should be in town &
preach on the ensuing Wednesday. Notice was given to Cleveland
& Oliver to be present at that time, & they were ready. Cleveland
preached first, & soon at a very short intermission Mr Oliver. The
Methodists in the intermission learnt the trick, & after some idle
debates upon inability, election, itinerancy, &c., they told the people
that thay should preach in the School House, & accordingly the two

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 125
services began at the same time, but a majority attended the Meth
odists, offering this reason that the other preaching was out of spight.
The Methodists have preached at Ipswich, in the several paiishes,
Newbury, &c. The Orthodox who have proclaimed a work of God
going on in the Southern States, having now found out that it was
promoted by the Methodists, have covered in silence their mistake,
having confessed that Satan may be transformed into an Angel of
Light. The poor Anabaptists are now left in silence, & will prob
ably diminish as the sentiments of the Methodists so happily blend
a liberality on the five points, with as much experience as enthusiasm
can beget. The doctrine of Itinerancy forms a dreadful puzzle with
the orthodox, who are smarting dreadfully under the lash, & are
convinced that they set the example.
********
Sept. 16, 1791. This day being appointed for the review in Marble
head, I went in company with my Frenchman & John to observe the
conduct of the day. We arrived at ten o'clock, & found the Com
panies just entering the parade. They formed, were inspected by
D. A. Tracey, & afterwards reviewed by B. G. Fiske. As Marblehead
is a town composed of all nations, instructed in various religious
superstitions, which have left no other than the same fears, without
any light to enable them to enter into controversies, with their in
structions, which are rather their fears playing upon their credulity,
they have so little knowledge of moral life, that they are as profane,
intemperate, & ungoverned as any people on the Continent. From
this general character, for there are some noble exceptions, every
person expected entertainment from the folly which the day would
exhibit. But the disappointment was great. The regiment under
the Command of Col. Orne, junr. consisted of above 300 privates in
seven companies, with officers all in a blue uniform, with a white
standard, bearing in the quarter the blue stripes. The men were
all decently clad. The firearms were rusty & chiefly without bayo
nets, but not disgustful. When dismissed there was some firing off
pieces, but not such as might be expected from men who had been
accustomed to this fault in an alarming excess. We were escorted
by a proper guard at one o'clock to the Academy to a public dinner,

126 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
at which 110 persons were received, & sumptuously entertained.
Col. Lee, whose elegant house is on the parade, gave us a Collation
at 4 o'clock in a very polite & generous manner. At dinner every
propriety was observed. After dinner the Toasts were drank. The
Commander of the day condescended in the manner of the place to
give us a song in turn, while Major Swazey, Mr Sewall, Capt Orne in
turn assisted in the same entertainment. They could not desist from
liberties usually taken on such occasions to flatter national prejudices
at the expence of other nations, & as I had a Frenchman with me.
Col. Orne asked whether a Song upon the French might not be apol
ogised for to my friend. I told him that my friend was young, of a
good family, but present upon his courtesy. However, Mr Sewall
was betrayed into the error of singing a burlesque song, for which
his exquisite feelings gave him adequate punishment upon discovery
that a Frenchman was present & he made most humble apologies.
Col. Orne senior, in his own manner said, tell the young man that
when this same old English song was sung before a General Officer
in public company, this generous Frenchman, with a laugh replied,
"Dis was no make by de Frenchman." My young friend all this
while knew little of the matter. It is however a warning against
the illiberality of ballads & the humble prejudices they are designed
to support, which ought to disappear when the light of good sense
& friendly society appear. A Capt Homans entertained us with a
most exact imitation of low life, in the most indelicate, honest, but
vile language of low life, for which he deserved the shouts in the
execution, but a whipping under the gallows when the story was
ended. After the toasts at three o'clock, we returned in procession
to the parade, & the aftemoon was spent in evolutions. First with
Revd Hubbard, & then in company with Col. Orne, I visited the Fish
Flakes which were covered with this staple of the Town. In our
view from one point were 79 vessels, of which 2 were Brigs, the rest
chiefly fishing Schooners, & only 4 of them at the wharves. The
ship with Jury masts was riding at the entrance of the harbour.
There are but two places in this Town convenient for wharves, each
of them I visited. They are about an eighth of a mile apart. No
wharves have piers to afford two berths on a side, or room for two

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 127
vessels on a side. The lane leading to the principal is at the lower
end of the Town House, which is boarded up on the lower story, &
much shattered above. The best Cove is said to be red stone cove
at the upper part cf the Town, & just below an head, which I visited,
& whose name I forgot. The cove is named from the colour of the
rock. The success of the Fishery has been great this year, but greater
in Beverley than in Marblehead in the proportion of the shipping.
The difference is imputed to the effects of privateering upon the
manners in Marblehead «& not to the care in fitting vessels for the
fishery. Beverly has fitted out 30 Vessels, and the last fare now in,
is above 500 quintals to a Vessel, amounting at the lowest compu
tation to 15,000 quintals. Marblehead has fitted out 80 Vessels, of
the same burden, & the success has not been above 300 quintals to
a Vessel or about 25,000 quintals, the whole fare. Beverley never
went so fully into the fishery before the war, & it is believed that it
never had in it the same quantity of fish at the same time. The
proportion of Salem, who do not enter largely into this business,
I have not ascertained, but will do it at a convenient opportunity.
At Sundown I was introduced into the family of Col Lee at Tea. He
has eight children & a very obliging wife. This gentleman has a
very excellent person, & was highly esteemed in the Continental
Army, & particularly by our illustrious Commander in chief. His
want of promotion in the Militia depends on himself. After Tea,
tho' solicited to tarry at a public Supper, I declined in apprehension,
from the manners of the people. I reached Salem at seven o'clock.
I saw at a distance the work on the neck, which forms a barrier
against the Sea, but had not time to visit it. The Lottery has left, I
am informed, something in stock, for future repairs.
An anecdote of the Rev : Bernard, the Bishop of the place, is, that
on public trainings, he would carry his pockets loaded with Coppers,
to throw to the Boys, to entertain himself with their exertions to
catch, or to find them. This was the ostentatious virtue of the age,
in which he lived, & passed as generosity, not diversion. It is said
there is an admirable likeness of this eminent man yet remaining in
his Mansion house which I had not time to see. I went into the

128 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
cupola, upon the elevated seat of Col Lee to enjoy the extensive view
he has from that convenient place, but the air was not sufficiently
clear for the purpose. I could see enough to believe the repre
sentation just. They have a seven foot Telescope in fine order, &
they declare that they see the people pass to church in the streets of
Salem on Sunday, such a command have they of the Town. I ob
served that the Beacon on Baker's Island looks directly up their
Harbour. 17. The Head above red stone cove in Marblehead is called
Skinner's Head, from the owner, & the head below not of so bold
projection into the harbor, & not so dangerous to Mariners, or to
vessels driven from their Anchors, is Barthol's Head, which is of much
greater elevation. The land is exceedingly rough, & they use no
wheels in these flakes. The wharves below the town house are
called the New Wharves in distinction from those above.
********
April 4, 1792. It being the day appointed for the ordination of
Mr A. Parish at Manchester, upon the invitation of Mr Lee I went
for Manchester in company with my french pupil Mr Igout about
nine o'clock. We arrived between ten & eleven, & after twelve the
Council appeared for the services. The House being both small &
weak, & the day uncommonly warm & pleasant, the Services were
performed in front of the Meeting House upon a scafford raised for
the purpose. The solemnities were introduced by a prayer from
Mr Cleaveland of Stoneham. His Father of Ipswich being Moderator.
The Sermon was delivered by the Brother of the Pastor elect, Mr E.
Parish of Byfield, Newbury, the ordaining prayer by Mr Cleveland of
Ipswich, the Charge after ordination by Mr Forbes of Cape Ann.
The prayer after the Charge by Mr Dana of Ipswich, & the Right
Hand of Fellowship was given by Mr MacKeen. The Services were
performed with decency, & listened to by the people with great good
order. After dinner to accomodate my frenchman I went to Cape
Ann, in company with the second son of Col. Pierce, who had been in
France & conversed with my pupil. We were received with the
hospitality of the place. We took Tea at Col. Pearce's. His wife is
a plain domestic woman, out of health. Mrs Williams, a daughter

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 129
whose husband is in the E. Indies, lives with them with three children.
Mrs Beach, an other daughter, whose husband is in England, who is
yet in the vigour of life, gave us her company, & rendered herself
very agreable. After supper I went to Esqr Rogers' and lodged with
him. 5. Breakfasted with Col. Pearce, & after breakfast went with
him to see his Spermaceti works, his Distillery and the numerous
artisans whom he employs. That morning arrived a shallop from the
Bay, out 48 hours, which brought in several hundred fish, & were in
the act of preparing them for the flakes. We then went to Mrs
Beach's. They are preparing their garden which is rather too narrow
but of considerable length, & which will be excellent when finished.
In the middle isa fine fish pond. On the north side is the Rope walk
in fine order layed in a bed of clay. In the mansion, which I have
repeatedly visited, we have in the great entry & chambers elegantly
in frames & glass all the representations & cuts of Cooke's Voyages,
besides a full portrait of Capt Beach upon an eminence, with a paint
ing of the death of Hector. At the Father's we have an Italian view
taken from a painting in the Pamphili palace at Rome, richly coloured.
Mrs Beach afterwards favoured us with her company at dinner. She
is a fine woman. I visited Charles Rogers & saw his fine wife. At
two we set out upon our return, after many promises of another
visit, & reached Manchester. There we heard of the intentions of Mr
Toppan of Newbury, son of the former minister, to preach a lecture
in the evening. His fame being great, & I never having heard him,
I consented to tarry, & was obliged to offer the last prayer of the
service. The first time I ever spoke in a Meeting House by candle
light. The sermon on Abraham's offering up Isaac was meritorious.
We lodged at Mrs. Hannah Lee's.
6. After Breakfast returned to Salem & arrived at 1/2 past 8.
********
May 15, 1792. Rode with Miss N. B. into Danvers, where we spent
an agreable day with a pleasing company of Country Lasses. We
walked, we sung, we played, & time never hung heavy upon our
hands. We saw the good Parson planting opposite to his house.
The head of the family was taken in distress & adopted, & does not

130 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
know his parentage. The Children are of three sorts, & are inter
marrying, as the present is a third wife, & the wives had children
by other husbands. A Mrs W. was with us, who married a young
Carpenter by occupation, who went with an associate, her present
husband, to Carolina, & made an agreement that should he die first,
the other should take his widow. After his death his friend sent
the account with the agreement, & he is now married. He enter
tained us with some sentimental songs. There was a raising in the
neighborhood this afternoon, which prevented us from the company
of the Parson. The river running from Reading to Ipswich passes
near this house. We were decently mired in looking for Cranberries.
We reached Salem at nine in the evening.

June 22, 1792. By invitation from Mr Derby the Clergy spent this
afternoon at the Farm in Danvers. We were regaled at our arrival,
after the best liquors at the house, with a feast in his Strawberry
beds. They were in excellent order, & great abundance. He measured
a berry, which was 2 inches 1/2 in circumference. We saw
whole nurseries of Trees, such as Buttons, fruit trees, «& the Mulberry,
of the last we had from him the following account. He takes the
fruit very ripe, dries it, then pulverises it, & sows it in rows, as other
small seed, & it grov/s above an inch the first year, & in five years,
is eight & ten feet high by transplanting. This garden is much im
proved since I was here last. We saw Potatoes called early, brought
from the Nova Scotia, & upon opening the hills, they were large as
eggs at the present time. The slugs & worms do injury to his fruit.
Besides the garden we saw a great variety of animal life. The
Swan, a stranger among us, from Virginia. The Cape of Good Hope
Sheep with their remarkable tails, weighing 5 pounds, & used by
the inhabitants as butter, but of very delicate fat. The Garden is
on our right as we went westerly from the house, & the barns, nurs
ery, &c. on the left. We went down to the New farm, where we saw
in pleasing contentment some old domestic servants enjoying at ease
the remainder of their days. As our company was mixt, we had not

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 131
much familiar conversation. The German Gardner* is yet upon the
Farm. At Coffee we had excellent radishes, bread, & butter, &
cheese from the Farm. The Cheese equal to any in Europe. A pair
of fine Horses carried the waggon to the Farm, & gave an unusual
stateliness to the conveyance. Return at Sundown. Mr Derby re
ceived us with all that attention, & bounty, which gratify,while they
distroy not the affections. We envied nothing but his liberality to
us, because we wished to do the same things.
March 5, 1793. This day being the day on which the Tyrian
Lodge at Cape Ann meets, I determined to persevere tho' the weather
was foul, to accomplish the business of the Grand Lodge in Essex.
The roads were bad, & after the civilities of Manchester, the French
Gentleman, who accompanied me, dined with me at Major Craft's,
the public house. After dinner, through this horrible road we con
tinued on to Cape Ann, where we arrived in the afternoon. I could
not refrain from observing that the appearance was very different
from that the Town assumes from the confluence of Strangers on
public festivals & days of rejoicing. There was too much complain
ing for a belief of a general content. In the evening I was conduct
ed to the Lodge convened in an upper chamber, by a Committee, &
received with every civility. With the utmost coolness I waved every
dispute, & proposed the object of my conference, a permanent union
of interests in the present Grand Lodge. They then chose a Com
mittee of five persons, & ordered the Secretary to report their pro
ceedings to the Grand Lodge. This Committee is to deliberate on
the subject, & report to the Lodge their opinion. We then had an
elegant Collation, & after supper some choice songs, & retired.
6. This day was spent in visits to Revd Forbes, the Rogers, Pierces,
&c. Mr Beach introduced me to his Brother, arrived with his family
from Bristol, a Tobacconist, an intelligent man, & furnished with a
very good Library, from which he spared for my perusal Martin's
diet, of Natural History, ornamented with figures highly coloured.
?George Heussler, a German who previously had been at the Tracy estate at
Newburyport and was "the first man who ever lived in Salem in the character of
a regularly bred gardener."

132 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
We were received in the best manner at Captain Beach's ; & he de
serves our gratitude. We saw here specimens of the Cornwall ores.
After dinner we went with Mr Rogers to see his farm of 300 acres at
eastern Point. Mr Rowe, the Attorney, & Son in Law of Mr Rogers
accompanied us. The road was horrible, & my young companion
after travelling across the neck to view the Thatcher's Island lights
accompanied me into the Town on foot, both of us dreading to ride
back through such dangerous passes. In the evening there was an
assembly, at which my young companion attended. He gave me a
very humorous account. They had six candles, 12 ladies, 7 gentle
men, a black fiddler for 2s. & a fifer for Is. 6. Both sexes partook
of the grog provided on the occasion.
7. In the morning we breakfasted at Mr Beach's & we had the
company of the two English young Ladies, Daughters of Mr Beach
of Bristol. The greatest propriety distinguished this social hour.
At 10, we left Cape Ann & reached Manchester, & dined, & at 2
o'clock arrived again at Salem. We were told at Cape Ann, that
they could with difficulty provide hands for their bankers,* from the
general persuasion that the Bay boats were more lucrative, & from
observing the success of Sandy Bay, Squam, & Chebacco. Beach's
rope walk was in great good order. Sergeant's now shut up, it is
said, is sold to D. Plummer. Pearce has had several good Whale
voyages, & a Ship lay ready to sail for the Cape of Good Hope. He
expects to set his Sperma Ceti works agoing again. His distillery
has stopped, during the winter. The Meeting House is repaired.
********
March 19, 1793. It having rained in the morning, I delayed set
ting out for Newbury Port till eleven, & upon the road was informed
that the funeral of the Revd J. Murray, of Newbury Port, would be
attended this evening. The roads were as bad, as they ever are, &
after having dined at Ipswich I could not reach Newbury Port till
after 4 o'clock. Upon my arrival I found the people in the Meeting
House, & with difficulty heard the close of the last prayer, & the
Singing. I was informed that the first prayer was by Dr Langdon,
of Hampton, the Address by Mr Whittimore of Stratham, & the last
?The Grand Banks fishing fleet.

^.jjai-" "jii-JJMa^'3'T'

-TT"

1. jU+<tbfy±tiiJiUl«

THE ESSEX MERRIMACK BRIDGE AT NEWBURYPORT.
From a drav^ing by J, Downer, engraved for the "Massachusetts Magazine," May, 1793,

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 133
prayer by Mr Morrison of Londonderry. The order of the day was
read from the pulpit by Mr Tombe, now preaching in the Congrega
tion. After service the procession formed for the Burial ground, in
which Mr Murray requested to be interred, rather than in the Tomb
under the Pulpit with Mr Whitefield, Parsons & Prince. The easy
access to it, had rendered it exposed to indecent freedoms which dis
gusted him. In the procession first went the Church, Deacons, &
Elders, & the Clergy present on the occasion. Then the corps sup
ported by young men of the Congregation, & the pall supported by
Dr Langdon, Dr Bass, Dr Haven, McClintock, Mr Euwer, & Mr Mor
rison. Then followed the relations & friends. Above 350 couple
were in the procession & crowds in the street. Above 6,000 people
were collected on the occasion. After the service I spent the evening
agreably & lodged at Doctor Swett's. Dr Swett assured me that Mr
Murray discovered firmness till the close of life, spent the time in ex
horting his friends, who crowded round his dying bed, & could not be
prevented by the most earnest remonstrances of his friends, & the
physicians. Mr Murray gave them to sing in his house the 33 & 75
Hymns of the 2d Book, Watts.
20. After breakfast with Capt Noyes I rode up to the bridge over
the Merrimack, & confess myself much pleased with plan & the ob
ject. The execution is equal to the design. The proportions I had
already seen. The Island may be rendered delightful & there is a
public House already erected by the proprietors of the Bridge upon
the Island, & it is nearly finished. As yet it has produced nearly
double to the simple interest of the money, but how far curiosity, &
the openness of the winter, by which the ice has been impassable,
may come into the account, cannot yet be determined. I returned
& dined in company with the Mr Traceys, & Jackson & Dr Swett,
with Col. Wigglesworth. He is a hospitable man, sui generis. His
little daughter gave us some pleasing specimens of her music in sing
ing. In the evening we visited St Peter's Lodge. The reception was
kind. The tables diagonally placed, the company too numerous for
the tables, the room badly illuminated. The lodge was opened &
closed with Prayer. The Master M. Gale. Spent evening at Dr
Swetts with some french company.

134 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
21. Breakfasted with Mr J. Tracey, spent Morning with Mr Jackson
& Dr Bass, & rode to the Academy* & dined with the Preceptor.
The road was very bad, & clayey, & a violent snow storm came on
which lasted all day. The Academy is much repaired, a new white
balustrade fence is before the Mansion House. The Old School built
for M. Moody, & since a writing school, is neglected. It contains only
the great desk provided by Mr Moody for the Academy chamber,
which is now cleared for exhibitions. There are about 20 youth at
the Academy, & the Preceptor is a man of great diligence. He usu
ally preaches in the Academy on Sundays. In the evening I was re
ceived at Swasey's Tavern by a Committee from the Unity Lodge in
Ipswich. The members present were the Master Col. Wade, the Sec
retary Major Burnham, & Major Swasey, & Capt. Dodge. They rep
resented their Lodge as having only 12 members & seemed more re
tarded by the smallness of their numbers than any other cause. In
the war their members exceeded forty. Capt. Dodge was with me
in the Convention, & still seemed wounded with the idea of working
under modern masons, an idea which had been expressed with some
warmth by B. Boardman, past Master, in St Peter's Lodge. It was
agreed to give me Letters A I found afterwards to pay my expenses.
We supped together, & I enjoyed the Company of a very respectable
Committee. 22. Rose early, & after breakfast returned home. The roads
very bad. Newbury Port is evidently flourishing. Many new houses
in high Street ; & Stores opening on account of the position of the
Bridge three miles above the Town. Several french families here,
& a greater number of emigrants than in any other place except
Boston. Great West India Trade. The Anabaptists, & Miltonians
are preparing for a harvest upon the death of Mr Murray, who
united the lower classes of people. Mr Bancroft has resigned the
Town Grammar School, & Master Rogers has engaged to enter upon
it next Monday. He engaged with the greatest prepossessions in
his favour. He has taught writing & reading, & therefore he certain
ly can teach Latin, & Greek. The teaching by Duncan's Cicero, &
Davidson's Virgil is so common, said the Preceptor of Dummer Acad-
?Dummer Academy at Byfield Parish.

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 135
emy to me, that no other School Books are to be found. The Select
Orations of Tully, without a version cannot be purchased. The new
way is taught at the Andover Academy.
********
April 23, 1793. Set off for Tewkesbury to visit my old Landlady.
Did not easily recollect the road in Danvers, which turned off 1 1/2
mile to the left, & again about 3 miles at a house projecting at the
angle. Keeping to the right directly. After stopping at the Widow
Upton's found the left hand direct road, the highest, not the best, &
when I came within sight of the precinct Meeting house of Reading,
I turned to the right & came out by the meeting house, when 70 rods
nearer, I might have kept on & come out at the public house, 1/2 a
mile beyond the Meeting House. After having passed Wilmington
above a mile past Esqr Ford's on turning to the right I passed be
tween the House & Barn which were the second on the road, then
kept to the left, & upon passing the Shawshin rode upon the banks
of the River to the Mills & to Boardman's. After dinner I rode on
to Andover through Tewkesbury woods. It is five miles from Board-
man's to the South Meeting. The road direct. Some danger of
turning to the right. Passed the Shawshin below the south meet
ing house, which was then a beautiful stream. I stopped at the
meeting House lately finished & obtained entrance. The exterior
appearance is the best. The house is crowded within & has no pleas
ing appearance from the proportions. It has a pendant canopy, &
an inscription over the pulpit. Holiness becomes thy house O Lord,
forever. The communion Table is in what we called the Elder's
seat. So that we find the desenters begin to inclose & we are told
as to the discipline they enclose in this place with a vengeance. The
way to mount the Tower is not convenient. The Bell is in the Tower,
& too much enclosed. It is a fine Bell, & is the gift of Samuel Abbot
Esqr whose name is upon it with this Inscription. To all the people
I do call, & to the grave do summon all. It is deep toned, & excel
lent. The lantern, as it is called, upon the dome has not so good an
effect, as I should have wished for so much expence. There are a
number of fine houses in the great road which have a fine effect up
on the Traveller, & astonish him noticeably with the idea of ease by

136 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
affluence. The farms have great neatness, & convenience. I then
went on to Mr Isaac Parker's & Col. Lovejcy's at the entrance
of a Lane about 1/4 of a mile on the south side of the South Meet
ing House. I found in one a good farmer & in the other a very at
tentive Gentleman. The farmer has everything in order around
him, & much of that facetiousness which makes the most laborious
employment set easy. He has a wife & four very young daughters
very agreeable. The family were baptised by me last fall. An aged
father, trembling with the palsy in the limbs, & helpless, with a good
countenance bore ample testimony by his language & appearance
to the fidelity of his children. He had been an old soldier in the
french wars & had a very open, & engaging look. The son had
been in the American naval service in the last Civil war of America.
At this house, which is furnished with a large chamber, this evening
a company of 20 couple were to assemble for dancing & amuse
ment. They visit this house for these purposes in classes, accord
ing to their ages, not with any regard to their condition, as in the
Seaport Towns. They seperated at the usual hours of Assem
blies. They have Violins & flutes for their music, & sometimes the
drum. For the convenience of Lodging after Tea I went to Col.
Lovejoy's. He conducted me to the North meeting house, which
was built 40 years ago. The order of the Door has not that appear
ance which the improvements in architecture would give it at this
day. The hipped roof of the Porch I prefer to the pediment of the
new House. The steeple is too small as it rises from the dome, but
the ill effect has been lessened since the late repairs by diminishing
the shaft above. The interior view of this house from the conven
ience of parts makes it look larger than the other house, & it is
much better finished throughout. The swell of the pulpit is not suffici
ently large but the whole has a good effect. They have a clock up
on the front gallery, & a very excellent one in the Steeple with point
ers. The pendulum is not hung with ease, but the clock is good.
The bell of about 500 Wt is sharp & clear, a good tone. We returned
to the Col's & after familiar chat we retired in good season.
24. This morning we rose & rode 3 miles towards the river.
Then walked to the place intended for the New Bridge, & for which

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 137
the Banks are cut down to move the Timber, & here we saw the
people on each side seining for Salmon & other fish. We saw a 1000
alewives caught in one draught. They had taken one salmon of 20
wt : pick[er]el, shad, suckers, &c. Their method was in a flat boat
of about 14 feet in length, & three in breadth with a wide stern, up
on which is a table for the seine, which is furnished with scuppers
to void the water. With this they go up the eddy formed by a pro
jection of rocks & logs into the river, & then row violently into the
stream [and] discharge the net from the stern. On the shore two
men hold the rope fastened to the seine & begin instantly to draw
down. The men in the boat quicken the motion of the boat in the
stream till the whole seine is drawn from the boat & then make to
wards the shore, the rope from the boat to the seine being about 3
times the length of the boat, as is the length of the wood, which
forms the eddy. The men on the shore continue to draw down till
they have come within 100 feet of the boatmen, & then draw the
ends of the seine upon the shore. Then they pull up the seine, clear
ing it as it comes up within a few feet of the shore. Then they rest
a few minutes till the fish cease their furious slapping in the water,
& then they empty the seine, & begin again. The Seine is about
100 feet long. It is sunk at bottom by the leads, & floated at top
by wooden buoys, 2 feet distance. The intertexture of the lines is
called the Marish. The middle of this seine was of the alewife
marish, of a smaller texture than the other parts. We received a
dozen of the alewives from the fishermen, who sold them at 2s/ pr.
100, or as caught in the brooks, by the order of the Town, at a pistar-
een. The vote of the Town last year was that a committee should
be chosen to fish in the brooks at the Town charge, & the fish were
to be delivered at a pistareen pr. 100. We left the river & then rode
through the woods, which are of pine shrubs, & exhibit a melancholy
contrast to the other parts of the town. The buildings, the inhabi
tants, & the animals, all shew the unfavourable soil upon which they
are employed. After a zigzag ride of four miles, repeatedly crossing
the sweet stream of the Shawshin, which here finished its course in
the Merrimack, we arrived at the Paper Mills erected upon this river,
& found them in great order. The vats below, the two mills above,

138 REV. WILLLAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
the conveyance of the water, the various employments of the persons
at work, of both sexes, gave pleasing entertainment. The drying
rooms were large, & convenient upon every account. The powder
mills were a novel sight, upon the construction of Fulling mills as to
the motion given to the pestles in the mortars, by levers from the
axis of the wheel. We then passed the S. Meeting towards home,
which we reached at noon. We dined on Salmon, & the Alewives
were received & the alewives fresh made no mean entertainment at
the Col's Table. We were much indebted undoubtedly to the Cook,
who excelled on the occasion. After dinner I returned through
Boxford & Topsfield to Salem, which tho' of a distance much greater
than on the roads by Reading or Middleton, amply compensated me
by the goodness qf the roads, the fine farms, the beautiful landscapes,
ponds & rivers. At Topsfield I spent an hour in chearful chat in a
wedding house where the minister. Lawyer, squire, &c. were assem
bled, the men in one room, & their wives in another, the men having
the best room, & all the attendance. For my amusement besides
anecdotes, &c. I was furnished with several late publications of the
ministers in this neighbourhood which informs us of the state of this
order which has so much influence on society. Bradford of Rowley,
Sermon at the Ord. of his Brother forms the clerical character upon
the cant term of "experience" which will admit of many consequen
ces, being explained only by inward light. Dutch of Bradford, at the
dedication of his new Meeting House, taking as his text the gold letters
over his pulpit, "O worship the Lord in the beauty of holiness," runs
along in a muddy stream, till he unburdens himself with the account
of the oblivion of the old house, which should teach them to put into
the bottomless pit; the same ; their old man, not the old minister who
' was already dead. Williams of Methuen has offered to the world, his
farewell sermons, after a most bitter dissention. He is a son of an
old Presbyterian Willians, natives of Ireland & the father often de
ranged. The dispute began about a Wood lot of the Parsonage & a
challenge from the pulpit at a weekly Lecture, which one of the par
ishioners accepted. The parson seems to wish them well, but is
terribly inveterate against a class of illiterate ministers, & a class
called Hopkintonians, tho' not here named. Neither of these per-

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 139
formances contribute much to prove the clergy enlightened, simple
in the ideas, or sweet in their tempers. The inscription upon their
Houses is not in the style of sentiment of the New England settlers,
& proves infallibly, that the Catholic Church is formed of materials
existing in the constitution of human nature, as connected with
certain states of society. The I. H. S. on the front of the S. Pulpit
in Andover may well express in Humanitate Sum. In drawing
comparisons nothing can be said in favour of these men, as in their
office, in regard to society, we see, morals will make the worst opin
ions harmless.
The situation of Andover being elevated there are fine prospects
from its hills, & the view of the Town is opened in every part, &
beautifully diversified. There are seven bridges over the Shawshin,
which is nearly of the same width & depth through the Town of
Andover. It is said to rise in Lexington. Seems as large in Tewkes
bury as at its mouth, & being deep in its bed, & confined, is subject
to sudden flows. It is about 20 feet wide, & from 2 to 6 deep, where
it is not obstructed. The Town of Andover is much cut up by roads.
The poverty of the Land towards the Merrimac prevents this from
being a great evU in that quarter. The Shawshin rises & falls 10
feet in 12 hours, & the bridges are high upon that account, but too
narrow, an evil from being a Town charge. There is not much fish
ing in this river, which is obstructed by the Mills built upon it. I
saw some children with scoop nets amusing themselves. I found
my friend Boardman has detached his interest from Mr Simons, re
nouncing all right in the house near the mills & the lands, & giving
up the Mills saw & grist mills upon the Shawshin for an annual quit
rent of 50 bushels of grain during Boardman's life. They have set
tled a Mr Barton at Tewkesbury. Madam Boardman has passed her
80th year. The land is in general poor in the Town of Tewkesbury.
Salmon here at /5d a pound. As to the Cultivation of Andover, I
found at Col. Lovejoy's that he had the reputation of the greatest
quantity of English Hay, & that Mr Parker had preserved excellent
wood upon his farm. Among the elegant houses, the one which
meets us coming into the great road from Tewkesbury, belonging to
one Poor, a Tanner, is not the least elegant. There are several

140 REV. WILLLAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
Physicians in the Town, among whom Kitteridge is distinguished by
his elegant situation, agreeable manners, & extensive practice. The
minister in the south parish asserts the rigour of his predecessor,
& supports the character of the last age of American manners. The
influence of example is every day increasing. He decides upon the
secular concerns of his church agreably to the antient rigour. The
most aged minister in this vicinity, Mr Morrill, is approaching to
the end of a long life by means of a Cancer in the Mouth. He has
been subjected to great mortifications for Arminianism, a charge
which implies liberal enquiry, & popular prejudice, & stands for any
thing unhappy in a man's situation. I retumed to Salem with St
Cyprian's works, & a bunch of sweet Thyme for the Ladies, & so
ended a short journey in which the roads were in the best order, &
the weather the finest conceivable. I rode without surtout.
April 27, 1794. Sunday. Went this morning on an exchange to
Boxford, South Parish. The Rev. Holyoke is disabled by a paralytic
stroke. I took the road, leaving Topsfield meeting on the right, &
after 3/4 of a mile took the right hand through a road which did not
seem to be much used, & which was but poorly settled from a visible
cause, the poverty of the soil. The Rev. Mr. Holyoke & his family
received me kindly. His wife is, agreable. An only daughter at
home gave us her company in modest silence. The meeting house
is small, well painted, without spire or bell, & the congregation made
a very decent appearance throughout. A Mr Adams from New
Rowley, an adjoining vacant parish gave us his company at dinner,
& told us the Anabaptist minister had also left from the circulation
of some reports respecting his immodest freedoms. This is the third
seperation of these amorous zealots in the County since I have lived
in it, besides other uneasiness from the same cause with men of the
same character. ********
May 21, 1794. This day I visited Marblehead, with intention to
examine the Neck which forms their harbour, but not having even
my compass I was obliged to content myself with a very superficial
survey. Revd Messieurs Story & Hubbard accompained me. We
travelled near the shore from the high rocks before the Town called

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 141
Bartold's head, leaving below us the new wharves. Above were the
old wharves called Nickes cove wharf. We then passed Waldron's
cove & reached Skinner's Head, & cove, & then red stone cove, & then
rotten Cove, & then Whale cove, & came to Euit's head, & came to
the Sea bank called river's head. We passed on the outer side, & on
the further part saw the new works erected from the late Lottery,
against which the public has so much complained. We found the
Stones thrown up at considerable height as we approached the Neck.
The tide being up, most of the rocks which lay off towards Ram
Island were hidden, & those which lay between the neck & Tinker's
Island. We reached the Western point, & from the headland, had
an elevation which opened Tinker's Island, so as to shew the passage
the Sea has between the parts of it. We continued our walk on the
outer side of the Neck, which has rocky head, & beaches between
as on the Shore of the Towns tho' not of so great elevation, except
ing about the middle of the neck, which is supposed to extend half a
mile in a straight line, but must exceed that distance. In this dry
time we found several places filled with water, & the low land in a
very neglected state. It is said the whole neck includes 180 acres,
the greater part of which is pasturage. Mr Andrews who has the
best House on the Neck, is wealthy, possesses 27 acres, part of which
lays in the rights of the Comraon land, tho' each man knows his spec
ial property. There are now three dwelling houses upon the Neck
besides their barns, & several fish houses. It is said that there ware
formerly 12 houses, but by the cellars they are judged to have been
small, & not to be compared to these now standing. Mr Andrews'
house was built before the war, is painted & in good repair with out
houses, & excellent stone walls. The other houses are the common
farm houses two stories with pitched roofs. The neck is widest
about 2/3 up toward the causeway westward, & it is one mile 1/2
from Capt. Andrews' House to the New Meeting House in the Town
over the Causeway, about half a mile across the harbour, which is
nearly of the same width throughout. The point ofthe Neck outward
between Marblehead Rock & Tinker's Island has rocks laying off called
Tom Moore's Rocks. The point opposite to the fort, & which makes
the mouth of the Harbour is called Point Black Jack, & within it is
formed a Cove called Carder's Cove. The Fort was erected in the

142 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
last war upon a Headland below the Town, & which is never sep
arated at the highest tide from the mainland, & beyond it lays Orne
island, which can be approached on land only on the ebb. Above the
fort lays IngoU's beach upon which Leslie landed his troops at the
commencement of the War in 1775. The Harbour is not sheltered
from the east wind, & between Boden's point & Skinner's head
about 1/4 over is Boden's ledge of Rocks upon which there is in the
common ebb 1 1/2 fathom of water, & at the lowest ebb 7 feet.
They are Called Boden's Rocks, but are a real Ledge of some extent
& scattered round. I did not have the pleasure of visiting Tinker's
Island, which I was assured could be visited from the Neck by wad
ing in about 3 feet of water. It has much less land than I thought
as viewed from the Neck, than I judged from the Sea. There has
been one melancholy shipwreck upon them since I have lived in
Salem. The Sunken rocks laying eastward of Cat Island, called in
Salem, Satan, are called in Marblehead, the Porpusses.
********
Nov. 24, 1794. Left Salem with Mr Priestley on a Journey to see
the new Bridges of this County. We visited the Beverly Manu
facture, which from the fruitless attempt to manufacture cotton vel
vet, & unfashionable goods, is now converted to the profitable busi
ness of Bedticks, & the demand is much beyond the ability of Mr
Burnham to supply. 60 hands are now employed in Beverly Manu
factory. We reached Ipswich & were kindly received at Revd Dana's
for whom we carried Letters. After viewing the New Court House
the plan of which is to be seen, tho' yet it is unfinished, we passed after
dinner to the Academy Dummer, & spent an hour with the worthy
Preceptor Smith. We had not time to visit the Woolen Manufactory
established three miles from the Academy, from the shortness of
the Days. We spent the first part of the evening at Revd Andrews
in company with Revd Carey, very agreably, & then went & supped
at Mr Jackson's, & lodged at his house. They have purchased an
elegant organ for the first Church, of American manufacture.
25. We spent the morning in visiting the Town. There is a new
Meeting House built for a number of Seceders from the Presbyterian
Church, who have at length settled a Mr Milton, & the Presbyterians

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 143
have settled a Mr Dana, to whom we had letters of address, & by
whom we were kindly received. We visited the rope walks, which
were now decorated in honour of Queen Catharine, on a day bearing
the name of a Saint Catharine. We visited the new Charity house,
which is a brick building, now erecting, & only finished on the ground
floor. An entry passes through the middle leaving four rooms on
each side, exclusively of the rooms assigned for the Overseer at the
northern end. The upper part is to contain two large Rooms for
business, & for the Overseers ; till they are necessary for other pur
poses. We visited Mr Parson's, our eminent Lawyer, & various other
characters, & dined with Dr Lovett in company with the amiable Mr
Jackson, who returned the visit to Dr Swett, who had breakfasted
with us in the morning. After dinner we took leave & went towards
Haverhill. We were advised to go up Newbury side of the river be
cause the road was better, tho' the Amsbury side was shorter. We
passed half a mile above grasshopper plains, where stands a meeting
house, to view the New Bridge, & returned, by a path which short
ened our distance, to the plain near the meeting house making a
Gore of Land. We were advised to pass Cottle's ferry, or at Brad
ford lower Meeting at Bussel's ferry but we continued up till we
reached the Bridge, and it was too late to examine it. We spent an
agreable evening at Herod's, & lodged that night at his house. We
had a pleasing company of Ladies.
26. In the morning, Mr Bartlet, our high Sherif, & a candidate
for Congress, who superintends the building of the Bridge, waited
upon us to examine it. We found the piers of Stone, & three arches.
We wait for a circumstantial discription to be assured of all its pro
portions. We then had purposes of visiting the Bodwell Bridge be
tween Andover & Methuen, but the cold «& the wind in our faces
made us relinquish this object as well as the Canal at Patucket falls,
& even above at Goff's Town, with the Bridges. We returned by
Boxford & Topsfield to Salem, & arrived before Sundown. Haver
hill Bridge is 563 feet long, with three Arches 183 feet each in length,
34 feet wide, upon stone piers, & abutments.
********
April 18, 1796. I left Salem to go to Andover, to visit my friend

144 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
Gen. Fiske, who has been long in that place for the advantages of
the air, the retirement, and the attention of Dr Kitteridge, who is
famous for his success with deranged persons. When I arrived at
Stephen's I found the fishing Time had come on, but the Fishing in
the brooks was by the Town, according to Law, an exclusive privi
lege in the hands of a Committee. One of the particular brooks is
the Quochechiuque which is the outlet from the pond one mile N. E.
from the Meeting House to the Merrimac, being about two miles
in its course, passing the road not a mile N. of the N. Meeting House.
The pond is large, & of an irregular shape. It is several miles
around it, but I only saw it from the Hills. I was upon the hill op
posite Frye's which I had visited once before, & upon the hill north
of it, between Fry's & the Pond. I did not go to Wyere Hill which
is between the Meeting House & the Pond. '
19. This morning after breakfast in company with Col. Lovejoy
I left Andover to see Methuen, one of the Towns of Essex County.
I had crossed the river before at Bodwell's falls, & at the upper part
of the Town at Richardson's but had not been far from the banks of
the River. We had to ride about three miles to Bodwell's falls where
the new Bridge is erected. We crossed the Bridge on the Shawshin
at Poor's in a mile & 1/2 & a Brook called Cold Spring, & had in
full view a regular hill called Tower Hill in Methuen, which touches
the river between Bodwell & Peter's falls, & has a ferry on the river.
We turned short to the right hand and came to the Bridge. I was
not able to get the dimentions of this Bridge. It was represented on
the planking to reach 38 rods, above 600 feet. The water courses
are four, & all supported overhead. The first floor is flat, but the
other three are arches. The piers are covered with square timber
& filled with rocks, & the work looks well throughout. There were
seines employed on both sides of the river, but they took only Shads,
Suckers & alewives. We purchased a few as they came out of the
water. Having passed the Bridge, we left White's on the right, &
soon passed a guide Post, telling us, that it was 17 miles to London
derry, & so to Patucket falls, which is said to be a corruption of Pau-
tucket. We crossed a Brook, & then came in view of the Spiquet,
a beautiful Stream, which rises in New Hampshire, passes through

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 145
Methuen & empties into the Merrimack, opposite to the Shawshin.
Its course was judged to be S. E., & it passes near New Salem Meet
ing House in N. H. near the Road. As we ascended Conant's Hill
we saw the Spiquet pouring its waters along at the Foot of this Hill,
which is high & steep, & now the land begins to look of a much
better soil, as well as cultivation. A view of Methuen from the op
posite banks of the River would give the beholder a very unfavour
able opinion of the Township, & would justify the censure of Andover
whose inhabitants long called it Littleworth. But the opinion is
more favourable when we see their Oaklands, well cultivated spots,
& the general appearance of ease & prosperity. It is said to have
gained much within a few years, & the Farms are in better hands.
The high lands give fine prospects, & we were relieved from the fa
tigue of mounting Conant's Hill, by the scenes which opened before
us. As we approached the Falls, the Farm house, & the Farm of
one Osgood appeared on the other side of the river in good order, &
cultivation. In two miles from the Bridge we reached the Cascade
at the Falls of the Spiquet, which is indeed romantic. The Road
runs just above & just below the falls, & there are the best advan
tages for viewing them on every side. While the stream is full they
are enchanting. The whole fall is fifty feet, but the descent over the
rocks, which forms the cascade, is 30 feet. Above the falls the stream
divides & leaves a little Island over which a road passes by two small
bridges. The Island is full of large Oaks. The east branch would
lead off the water, & as it passes the Island, is not interrupted. This
branch is checked below the Island by the Timber, which passes over
its mouth, & keeps it up several feet. The western Branch is broken
by continual falls over the Rocks, till it reaches the rocks, where it
mixes its waters with the other branch & pours down in the beauti
ful Cascade, into a bason below. On the western side there is a grist
mill, & fulling mill, & on the eastern a smaU wheel to grind scythes,
& all tools of husbandry. The water passes from the bason below
with an inclination eastward, which gives a convenient stand in front
of the falls to see the water precipitate itself from the rock. The
cascade is several times broken, but the whole has but one interrup
tion from the projecting sides of the rocks at 2 /3s the height. The

146 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
rock is shelving, & slate rock. A Sergeant holds the mills, & keeps
a public house in this neighbourhood. In one mile we reached the
meeting House leaving on our right the parsonage lot of wood chiefly
oak. Not far from the Meeting House is the late Mansion of the
first Minister, Sargeant, who was the father of our late Judge Sar
geant, so eminent on our Supreme Bench for his Law Knowledge, &
lately deceased at Haverhill. The Estate is now held by a Bodwell
by purchase. Rev. Sargeant was in this Town 50 years, & not long
since died. He was succeeded by a Mr Williams, Son of the Revd
Williams of Windham, not far from this place, for whom a Manse
was built upon the glebe not far from the Meeting House. Mr
Williams soon left his charge from some civil dispute, & is since set
tled at Meredith. Last December they ordained a Perley from Box
ford. By an advertisement on the Door of the Meeting House, it is
to be taken down on Wednesday April 21, which is the next day.
The Pews had been taken out, & preparation made. This is their
first Meeting House. It was small, & in the usual proportions of
our Meeting Houses. Never painted within or without. The timber
was on the spot for a new Meeting House, which they expect to
raise in May. It is to be upon the plan of the New Meeting House
lately finished in the lower Parish of Bradford. With a tower, &
Cupola. The situation is truly deUghtful. The Hill on whose top
it is to be placed, rises gently, & the best farms are near it. It com
mands a very extensive prospect. One Hildrich keeps the Publick
House near the Meeting House. At a distance N. Westward, appears
a handsome House belonging to one Huit. We left the Meeting House
& continued our rout eastward, after having been informed that we
left the Meeting House of the Seperatists, half a mile on our left to the
west when we were at the Falls. We did not see it. It is now vacant,
& the Congregationalists are to meet in it, while their House is build
ing. The minister, Stephens of the Seperatists, has removed & settled
in Stoneham, Middlesex Co. The Baptist meeting is at some distance
on the extreme part of the Town towards Dracut, and is unfinished, &
without a Teacher. In passing from the M. House eastward, we
went near a Square House, belonging to one Swan, which was well
constructed, & in good order, & we had a fine view of the houses

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 147
eastward, as we descended the long hill, till we reached Esqr Ingall's,
to whose house we intended to visit. He is an old man, one of the
Justices of the Sessions, & has been in the General Court. His house
is two miles from the Meeting House. To extend our acquaintance
as far as we could we did not return the same way, but took our
route through Bear Meadow woods, it being four miles from Ingall's
to the Bridge on this road. We passed Bear Meadow Book, & on our
right a Clay Pit, which is said to afford as good Clay as in the County.
There was no Kiln prepared when we passed. After we had passed
the Woods, we came to Sow Brook, which near the road, meandered
in the most singular manner, leaving only a few yards across to its
course, after running in opposite directions several rods. It is above
a mile from Ingall's. We then came to Bloody Brook, which empties
into the Spiquet, & saw the Ironworks. There was a Furnace here,
but it had not lately been at work. Ore had been found in this
quarter, but I did not hear its quality, quantity, or its situation. Be
low on the Spiquet we saw another small fall, at which was a Mill
Seat, & was told of another, below it towards Merrimac. We passed
the road to Swan's Ferry by which our road to Andover would have
been shortened two miles, but as the attendance was uncertain since
the Bridge had been built, we continued our route to the Bridge pass
ing White's on our return, which we had left on our right when we
entered the Town. From the Bridge we had a view of the mouths
of the Shawshin & Spiquet, 1/2 a mile below. After passing the
bridge, where toll was 12 1/2 cents, we took the new road & instead
of turning as when we passed before, kept a direct course for the
Overshot Mills, which stand upon an artificial pond, near the Shaw
shin. Here a Saw, Grist & Fulling mill are supplied with their little
streams. We then entered the road to Billerica & Concord, & keep
ing the left reached the North Parish, ascending a long Hill, from
which the prospect is very extensive, & entering upon Boston Road
from Haverhill. I dined with Col. Lovejoy, & in the evening through
Topsfield returned to Salem. From Methuen we could see the
Academy at Atkinson on a hill to the eastward, with the Meeting
House, Manse, & adjacent Buildings.

148 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
Sept. 1, 1796. Hearing much of the malignant fever in Newbury
Port, & wishing to hear with my own ears, what was said in that
place, as well as the state of the Inhabitants, I listened readily to a
proposal from Dr Little to take a seat in a Chaise, in which he was
going to Newbury Port near which was the place of his nativity, &
in which he had his medical education under Dr Swet who was a
victim of the disease. We left Salem about ten o'clock & dined at
Ipswich at the States Arms. Before dinner we visited Revd Mr
Dana, who was at his father's house, & who belonged to Newbury
Port. This Gentleman was supposed to have had the symptoms of
this fever, & is now upon the recovery. Upon our arrival near the
Town we stopped at the father's House of Dr L., & finding the fam
ily at Lecture in the old town we thought we would stop at the old
meeting to hear what' Dr More the Minister had to say about the
fever. A young man Pierce, candidate in Salisbury, preached. We
found the alarm was great. We rode into Newbury Port & stopped
at Davenport's & there found Mr Marquan,* so famous for his bold
imagination. He had a servant sick of this fever, a negro, & in a
high delirium. He had left his house, but was afraid to leave it with
the negro, who had torn his bed to pieces, & such men as were sent
to watch him. Marquan's account did not want colouring. We
found Water street shut up by a chain & that Mr Carter, & Mr My
call were the only persons who had courage to tarry in it. We found
the Town much deserted, & there had been public religious services
for several days successively. We sought the Clergy, & with Mes
sieurs Cary & Andrews I spent an hour. They could only assure
me of the facts of the deaths, & alarms, without any reasonings up
on the matter. I then went in search of Captain Joseph Noyes. His
house was shut up, & his family had gone to Hampton. I found him
at his son's, & as he was one of the Health Committee, I by his re
quest accompanied him to the Town house where the Health Com
mittee continued assembled all day. Capt Noyes was present with
Dr Swett when he died. Dr Swet was taken by vomiting on Satur
day, & determined, upon his own fate upon the first discharge. Dr
Sawyer visited him, but did not prescribe, & I have not yet heard what
*Marquand. fDr. John B. Swett.

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 149
method Dr Swet observed. A coldness in the extreme parts was ob
served on Monday, but the Dr died on Tuesday. He rose by his own
strength on the bed, spake to Capt. Noyes, turned himself, & with
out stretching himself, sunk instantly. The body had rather a purple
appearance at death, which soon changed for yellow spots on all
parts of the body. He was buried decently the next day, but since that
time there has been an hearse provided, & Coffins for instant burial
without any ceremony. The Dr died 16 Aug. After this fact my
next enquiry was into the origin of the Fever. I had visited the
family, but did not think it proper to make any enquiries respecting
the Doctor's opinion, or conversation. Abroad it was agreed that the
Dr imputed it to putrid fish belonging to Mr Atwood, near the place
in which the fever spread. It seems that on 31 May there arrived
near this place a vessel from Jamaica, & on the homeward passage
several men died of the yellow fever. The vessel was unladed
on 1 June, having only a few puncheons of rum on board. The
people say that all the cloaths belonging to the dead, near to them on
their sickness were thrown into the sea. The reports of any deaths
from visits to this vessel are denied by the Health Officers. They
say that the pilot is living, the inspector living, all reports to the
contrary not with standing. They say that Capt. Mulberry took all
the precautions in his power. On the other hand, they say, that
where this putrid fish was, & the vessel did lay at the same place,
have been all the instances of mortality, & that there are no fair ex
amples of its being conveyed to any persons who have not been
actually upon the spot. They begin the effects of this maUgnant
fever so late as at the 15 of June. The Physicians concur in these
facts. No persons attending the sick have actually suffered. Since
the 15 of June 26 persons had died at this time, 13 males & 13 fe
males. At nine in the evening we left the Town of Newbury Port,
for Newbury.
2. We left Newbury, & went into Byfield parish to see the Man
ufactory. We were introduced by Mr Perkins* to the Apartments.
We first reached the house in which this ingenious Mechanic lives,
on our left. We then came to the new building intended for grist
*Jacob Perkins. For biographical sketch, see Essex Antiquarian, Vol. II., p. 69-74.

150 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
& boulting miU, & passing the house for the workmen we reached
the large manufactory, which stands on a stream emptying into Par
ker's river, which is above a mile from the Academy. Below we saw
the house for dying their woolens on the left, & on the right we saw
the house for sheering, & beyond the Great Manufactory was a
blacksmith's Shop. The Manufactory is large, of three upright
stories, besides a loft. On the lower floor there is a partition. The
bands pass over a Cylinder moved by the water works, & communi
cate with the Nail machines, & pass also through the floor & move
the Carding Machines above. In the nail manufactory we first came
to the machine for cutting the plates, which did the work very ex
peditiously. There were four machines for the brads, & then a ham
mer for heading of the nails. The whole was done in a masterly
manner. The second loft was occupied by the Carding Machines &
Jennies, & the Third by the Weavers on one side & the spinners on
the other. On the upper loft & on the one side of the partition
below, were deposits for their wool, & yarn. In the Sheering House
we saw many specimens of their Woolen Cloths, which appeared to
be good. They weave 7 1/4 wide & they use altogether the Spring
shuttles. In sheering they prefer the sheares moved by the right
hand onward, & commanded by a spring moved by the left, the one
blade rests, & the other cuts at a considerable angle.
3. The probability of the infection from the fish was confirmed
at Newburyport in their minds, by similar facts at Portsmouth, &
lately at Sandy bay, as well as by the testimony of Dr J. Pringle
upon the Jail fever. In my absence I was chosen one of the Health
Committee of Salem, & last evening I was with the Comraittee. We
have 20 members including the Selectmen, & are subdivided into 5
Committees with our days for attendance respectively.
^ *F V V *!* ¦!• ¦!¦ V
Sept. 21, 1796. After dinner took my compass & pencil, & went for
a walk by the new Mills to Bev^y, to return by Essex Bridge. The
North Field Bridge has been lately repaired by a Mr Woodkins.
The Draw no longer rises by Levers & ropes over head, but by bal
ances, & a crank below. It appears strong enough. The leaves
rest against each other & depend on the strength of the work

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 151
behind them. North-fields do not appear in a very fiourishing con
dition. The fields belong chiefly to non residents, & the houses are
occupied not by the most industrious citizens. After we pass the
cross roads the Negro houses appeared very decent, especially com
pared with them in Town. At Mr Gardiner's, in Danvers, we find a
decent building. The present owner, since his purchase from Brad-
ish, has much changed the appearance of the house & Land. Below
at the Bridge, which is handsomely repaired, the mill works go on
well. On the southern shore all the frames, & sluices are prepared
for the water works, & on the north side, the foundations are nearly
complete. Much of the waterworks are finished, such as the water
wheels, trundles, &c. From this spot I walked to Mr Reed's* house,
which fronts south, but is quite north of the top of the hill, & upon
the descent, & so looses much of the front prospect, & gains nothing
behind. It was built for a farm house upon 30 acres of Gov. Endi
cott's farm sold by his heirs. Another part of the farm which in
cluded the whole neck between Duck & Crane river, is alienated
with its farm house to Col. Sprague of Salem. A third division on
the S. W. is yet retained by the heirs of Endicott. We visited this
man who was of the seventh generation from the Gov. At the
door we found the Gov.'s dial,t which was in copper, a very fair
impression, & in the highest order. It was marked "William Bow-
yer, London, Clockmaker, fecit. I. 1630. E." (the initials of the Gov.'s
name). On the gnomon on one side Lat. 42, & on the other Salem.
We entered the house which had nothing to recommend it, & saw
the old family picture of G. Endicott. Copies have been taken. One
I have seen in the Senate Chamber & another at Col. Pickman's,
Salem. It is hardly to be discovered. The face is the only part,
which is not entirely gone. The canvas is chiefiy bare. We then
passed into the Cornfield to find the Site of the old Mansion. We
found that this house, gone before the memory of any persons living,
was upon the descent of the hill facing southward. The place of
the Cellar, which is to be seen is distinguished by an apple Tree
growing on it. Behind was a building for the family servants, &
domestic laborers, the place of which is now to be seen. There is a
?Nathan Read, M. C. 1Now in the museum of the Essex Institute, Salem.

152 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
fine prospect in front, & a gentle descent to a Uttle creek, in which
the Gov. kept his Shallop. Tradition says there was a walk to this
place with damson trees & grape vines so thick that a person might
walk unobserved. These have all been gone for many years. This
place was called the Gov. Orchard as he planted early Trees around
his house. There is only one Tree left, which bears the Sugar Pear,
& by tradition was planted in 1630. It is in front of the site of the
House, it rises in three trunks from the ground, & is considerably
high. It is much decayed at bottom, but the branches at top are
sound. I brought away some of th^pears & engaged such as remain,
to be brought to my house to send to the Governour of the Common
wealth. There is a beautiful spring near Crane river, just before we
came to the gate on the road.
I then took leave of Mr Reed, after observing the fine shag bark
which grew upon his land & which formerly abounded on this farm,
& passed the New Mills upon the Bridge beyond the Meeting House
over Porter River the main Branch. At the Bridge I passed into a
path at the head of a Creek, & soon reached another Creek not far
from a north Course from the river. At the head of the second
Creek I passed through some woods on an east course, & found a
third Creek running nearly up to Rial Side road. Just beyond a
small brook descends from the southern part of Brown's Hill. On
the right of the road was a small burying ground, belonging to the
Leaches whose farm house had a very decent appearance. Passing
on & seeing mean houses, some with the old shattered diamond glass,
I reached the top of the rising ground opposite to Crane neck, hav
ing all the country open on this side of the river, land poor & only
5 Trees in the whole view of the river. 50 years since this parish
could vie with the southern parish, & the most independant Farmers
lived on these grounds so celebrated in the early history. After a
few civilities in Beverly, I returned to Salem & reached it before the
clock struck 6.

July 25, 1797. Left Salem early for Boxford, in company with
Mrs. Porter. We reached Topsfield early enough for Breakfast, &

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 153
were with Dr. Cleaveland. We then stopped at Revd Huntington's*
where we were kindly received. We then passed to Parson Hol
yoke's & found his Son & family well. The infirmities of the Par
son take him entirely from his services. We passed into the great
road at Spafford's Tavern & crossed to Mr. Perley's. There are
seven ponds in this Town. One, back of Perley's lays nearly east &
west, widest toward the western end, terminating in a meadow at
the east end. It must contain 200 acres. I walked on the southern
side as far as the meadow. The ground is high & uneven, with
some fine trees, but of poor pasturage. We tarried for the night &
our Host was very sick while we were with him.
26. We returned after Breakfast by the great Haverhill road, it
being both nigher & better. At the burying ground we found a
new monument erected by the Town in honour of Capt. Wood, who
has lately deceased & has left 2000 dollars to the Town to assist the
Grammar School. The stone is a parallelogram at the bottom on
which is erected a slate stone, in the form of an obelisk, tho' flat as
a grave stone. It is ornamented above with marble. There is a
tomb erecting near it for the same family. The arch is first raised
in brick & Ume & then covered with stone laid in lime of double the
thickness of the first arch. The Tomb very narrow.
May 13, 1799. Capt. John Gibaut invited me to go with him upon
a visit to his Farm & mills in Cape Ann Island, We found the road
through Cape Ann woods much assisted by the new road but there
remains 1 & 1/2 mile yet unfinished to remind the traveller what
that road once was & has lately been. We were told that 300 dol
lars had been appropriated by the Town to finish the work, as the
three Classes of the Lottery were incompetent. We reached the
Harbour or Town, at one o'clock & passed, after a few compliments,
to Old Town, where was the Farm we were to visit. The river
which empties into Squam River, on the west side of that river,
meets about 1/2 mile below the mills from whence it has a souther
ly course beautifully meandering, when the tide is fuU, through open
*Rev. Asahel Huntington, father of Mayor Huntington of Salem.

154 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
ground, & sloping hills, which are a strange contrast to the broken
ground, and towering rock around. There is a good view from the
rising ground opposite to the Farm House at the Mills but a better
view 1/2 mile upward from the bald rock of Poole's Hill which gives
a view of Boston & Ipswich Bay & of the adjacent country. The
Mill pond communicates with Cape Ann pond about three miles
distant & the tide flows as far as the Fresh Water mills, one mile
upwards or S. where the fresh streams turn eastward. The mills
have been thoroughly repaired & a large store is finished upon the
west side upon a Cobb wharf joining to the Mill Dam. As the river
runs toward the Town there is a beautiful view up the river of the
Spires & houses as we approach the Town. After dinner with Capt.
Smith's lovely family, who is upon the farm, & in company with Gi
baut, we prepared for sailing down Squam river. As the tide was low
we walked down to the point below the mills where Squam river meets
the Mill river. At this point we found the remains of Col. Low's wharf
which, at an early period, was a place of considerable business, &
there is an unusual depth of water. Round the point at Gee's wharf
in Squam river, 6 fathoms may be found at low water. There is a
road from the Town to this point but from the change of the place
of business from the Upper Town, as it is called, to the Harbour, so
called, it is neglected. In Squam river lay four islands. The larg
est are furthest up the River. They are small. Pierce's & Rhust's
are well known. In Squam Harbour a Cape runs inland at the head
of which stands the Meeting House. Not in very good repair but
better than at Sandy Bay. It is of two stories, not high, small &
finished in the plainest manner. We saw the wharf at the Point built
by Capt. Haraden, now of Salem. Baker's Orchard, west of the Town,
was said to be as large as any upon the Island, & it made a good ap
pearance in this singular situation. Opposite to Squam was the well
known Sand Beach, which supplies all the shore with sand for the use
of families from Boston to Portsmouth. It is best nearest the rocks,
or upon the most easterly part or N. E. We then having passed Lob
ster & Goose coves, to Squam Cove, came in view of the Bar Rocks
which lay near to Squam Bar & which trends towards Wigwam Point,
on which we found a Beacon, upon which is hoisted in foul weather a

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 155
Lantern to aid the Fishermen in passing the Bar. The Lobster Rocks
go to the Channel and they enter by bringing the Bald Rock between
the bar and two sharp rocks on the shore & so pass clear of the Lobster
Rocks. As we opened the coves we had an opportunity of seeing
the fashion of mooring Boats commonly called Jebacco* Boats be
cause built first in that part of Ipswich. They perforate a large
stone & raise a tree with its roots & stripped of its branches, & then
slide the stone over the stock of the tree upon the root. The root
prevents the stone from a seperation & this is carried & sunk in a
convenient place the top remaining like a post above water. The
fish houses are at the head of these coves, & from the number of
sunken trees we may nearly ascertain the number of boats in the
Cove. About 300 is the number for the whole Island, half of which
belong to the part called Sandy Bay. From Wigwam point we passed
to Neck point, which affords two coves, that on the west side be
ing called Neck Cove & that on the east side, Hodgkin's Cove & is con
siderable. We then opened Plum Cove & afterward Lane's Cove &
after having passed an Head called Gallop's folly, we opened Gallop's
folly Cove. The next point is the extreme of the Cape called Halibut
point. We then put out into the bay among the wherries which are
small flat bottom boats & are as numerous as the Jebacco Boats, &
which in good weather make two fares a day & sometimes take as
many as five hundred Cod & Haddock. They are rowed cross hand.
led by one man & even by boys of 10 & 12 years. We succeeded in
fishing & for the first time I caught several haddock, but the wind
breezing, I was soon too sick to persevere. We retumed at Sun
down to the Mills & after Tea had more sport at the Mill tail. The
eels came down in abundance, & the c/ewzVes striving to ascend being
tossed back by the water, great nuriibers were easily taken in a
scoop net .without any labour but of dipping it into the stream. It
is but lately the alewives have been led into this course, & very
few of them pass the freshwater mills above the mill tide Pond.
There has been a vexing Lawsuit upon the subject a few years since
upon account of the refusal of the privilege & the Claims of the Mills
being supported, the Town has hitherto neglected to purchase the
*Chebacco, now the town of Essex.

156 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
privilege. The grant of the mills was made to a former minister,
one Emerson, & all the inhabitants, except a few on Jebacco side,
bound themselves to send their grain to this grist mill. The exempts
were better accomodated at a nearer place. From the conversation
we might expect that the Town would soon see their true interest &
purchase the right of a passage to these fish so important in our
fishery. These alewives not only draw in the large fish, but 20C0
dollars are supposed actually to be expended in Cape Ann for Ale
wives as bait from JebacO & other Towns.
14. In the morning we prepared to take the Tour of the Cape.
Capt. Smith took a Mr. Phelps, an Apothecary, in a Chaise, & Capt.
Gibaut & I rode together in another. We stopped in the Harbour
to be shaved by a woman named Becky who in due form exercises
all the function^ of a Barber. She has her shop decorated with all
the pictures which belong to such places of resort, from the meanest
Black print to the best engraving, with all the songs which are in the
taste of the varied multitude of her customers. It was a solitary
example of a woman in this employment. She shaves well but has
few attractions of her sex. As soon as we left the Town we had a
view on the right of Salt Island so memorable by the fate of our
mariners. It lies at a Small distance from the shore, has a sand
beach within it & is almost a bald rock of considerable elevation.
The roughness of the road is much less than formerly & at present
not to be compared with Squam side. We passed Col. Foster & his
Son at work in the field about 2 miles from Sandy Bay. Their farm
is a welcome object amongst the greatest rudeness of nature. Op
posite to the pond we stopped in the Road & passed to the right to
view it. We ascended a bald rock on the western side not far from
the northern end of the pond, about 40 feet elevation, & here we saw
the form of it. It rather exceeds half a mile in length. It lies about
a mile in line from Streightsmouth, & not so much from the Eastern
Shore of the Island. We could see no places to take bearings on the
Eastern shore as the Islands were hidden. It lies in length nearly
north & south. Its form is not very winding upon the eastern side
except a little at the south end, at which it is narrowest. It then
trends S. W. unequally till it goes westerly to the outlet which is

REV. WILLLAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 157
about 1/3 of its length from the S. end on the western side. It then
remains of its greatest width for some distance till it becomes more
narrow at the northern end. Its greatest depth is said to be on the
N. E. side opposite to the high rock on its W. side from where we
viewed it, reckoned at 30 feet. It has the Pickerel & perch in great
abundance & is a pleasant body of water. The land about it is high
excepting a meadow at the north end, & down this the vaUies open
as far as Streightmouth which is seen in this opening. We passed
from the pond to Sandy Bay, which, tho' it has a scattered appear
ance while in the Settlement, has from several heights a very pleas
ing form from the neighbouring heights. We stopped in the upper
part of the settlement at Mr. Rollins, a Trader, who was absent up
on business. But from his wife we had every attention and a most
excellent fish dinner. We here saw neatness & simplicity. Her
husband is a carpenter & has built many houses in the place & is in
flourishing circumstances. From this house we passed to view the
settlement stretched along upon several coves & this place has half
the number of Boats upon the whole Island. It had no houses which
expressed the wealth of Cape Ann Town, but it had none of the marks
of poverty which many houses in that place display. The Houses
are small & of two stories & generally painted. The Doors are com
monly on the side so as to afford a good front room & back kitchen,
with a bed room back of the front entry. Some are double. The
School house was neat. The Door was at the Eastern end but there
was a partition between the Doors in the same frame to keep the
stairs leading above seperated from the room below. There are two
windows on a side. The roof hipped with a Belfry. The House
painted green & roof red. The Meeting House is small & the body
filled with seats, much neglected, roof rotten & open, standing near
the shore below the School House. Formerly there were ministers
in all the parishes but at present there is but one in the Island, the
Revd. E. W. Forbes, in the Harbour or Town, so called. Mr. Rogers
was formerly in the Upper Town & the meeting house is decorated
with an handsome steeple but it is going rapidly to decay, having
been long neglected. A Mr. Wythe & Parsons were at Squam, but
a separation ensued from their imprudence. They are both living.

158 REV. WILLLAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
At Sandy Bay was a Mr. Cleveland, still living, who has repeatedly
preached among them. Some from these parishes, visit the small
house for the Universalists in the harbour, but this Society has no
stated minister since Mr. Murray removed to Boston. As we pass
in Sandy Bay down towards Streightsmouth, the Light Houses on Tha-
Cher's Island open on the road before us, & as we went towards
Streightsmouth were in full view. The longest side of Streights
mouth Island is open towards Sandy Bay, the E. part running out
wards from shore. The Streight is narrow & has not much water
at low tide & is winding. A Bluff head terminates the N. end of the
Island near the shore under which is a little soil to be seen. There
is a beach upon the shore within the streight & pn the shore a Bluff
opposite to the bluff on the Island. Upon our return we observed
the very decent appearance of the women & children, which have
good forms & most florid countenances united with an uncommon
cleanliness in their dress. At Rollins' are found some infant speci
mens of Taste. Some monumental drawings in memory of some
deceased Children, done by one Saville, a Schoolmaster, with such
inscriptions as are adapted to the heart of a parent, & are the best
tribute to the memory of the good we love. After dinner we took
our departure for Squam. We nowhere saw Halibut point from
Sandy Bay, as it was covered by Anderson's point. As we proceed
ed along Pigeon Cove we had a miserable road, but before we reached
it we had a pleasing view of Pidgeon Hill. A few Trees on the top
yet remain, but the gentle rising & the central figure of the Hill, as
well as the verdure everywhere on its sides, was a contrast to the
rude forms of rocks & declivities which everywhere else appear.
The Salvages lay off before us & the three white rocks on the eastern
group which lay before us are coloured by their daily visitants, the
Birds, to warn the Mariners of their danger. The Mariners speak
of applying to the Marine Societies of the neighbourhood to assist
them in raising a Monument upon Pidgeon hill, as the Trees are de
caying continually. Upon this road we saw several neat Houses, &
two neat School Houses of one Story, well painted. Halibut Point
nowhere presented to the eye as we passed in the road. We found
it a pile of rocks, split into flat stones of all dimentions. They seem

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 159
to invite for every use. But they can seldom be taken from the
shore on account of the swell, & the roads are too rough to admit
their removal. Gallop's Folly point beyond has the same kind of
stones but not in the same preparation for use & split so regulary.
At Gallop's Folly we found much loose sand in the hills which we
had opportunity to examine as we stopped just beyond Mr. Gott's
who has a good Farm which has profited from this sand, which has
been strewed upon his meadows. This Man is an Outre. He was
formerly employed in a Coasting Vessel but at present is seperated
from his wife & only Child. He discovered to us the most hospit
able temper, but there is a derangement of mind, rather than a cor
ruption of heart. He shewed us his farm. He has helped his Sajidy
plains & hills, by the Locust, He has planted the Sassifras & has a
good Orchard. He showed us his woods in which he has the best
oak timber on the Island, some of which he is cutting for Ship Tim
ber. He has several nurseries of trees. He talks of a Ship yard &
he has many conveniences on the shore. In a mile from Gott's we
reached Squam, This has a scattered & poor appearance. It once
was much more prosperous than Sandy Bay but is now far surpassed
by the Inhabitants of Sandy Bay, yet, should the fisheries again re
vive, we may hope will again enter into competition with its neigh
bours. The road from Squam to Upper Town mills, over the two
Squam hills, was in a very neglected State & by far the worst of any
we found upon the Island. It is so easy to pass up the river & the
distance is so much less that men always in their boats never think
of stretching 3 miles over the worst roads, when they can sail pleas
antly only one mile. Before Sundown we reached our home at the
Mills having completed what is called the Tour of the Cape in the
distance of 15 miles as it is reckoned. At leisure examined the Tide
Mill, & found few improvements in the construction. The water
wheel is upon the new plan of side boards & flats instead of the old
floats tunnelled upon shafts. The rounds in the Lantern were short
& not large enough. The Lantern was large enough. The Shoot
was open & the clack was by iron claps on wood instead of open
iron, & the spout was short & trough narrow. At the mills they
have frequently caught a fish which they have not preserved but

160 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
which the Sailors thought like the Skip jack tho' smaller. I have
asked to see one when taken in Autumn.
15. This day we agreed to visit in the Town & to dine with our
Companion Mr. Phelps. We reached the Harbour at 11 o'clock.
Our first visit was to the New Ship Yard, They have never yet built
ships of great Burden. The first attempt by Col. Pierce engaged
much of the public attention. On every road we heard of the enter
prise & every man knew how much timber he could spare. The
first ship heads 76 feet, 27 feet beam & 12 feet hold within the tim
bers, to be about three hundred Tons. She is up in her frames al
ready. As much talk has been made of Dock Yards. Cape Ann
think they can afford a convenient one in a Cove at the head of their
Harbour, within 5 pound island. Their claims are not the meanest
which will be advanced. 20 feet of water can easily be had. The
Cove is large enough and the entrance small & the position of the
Cape is the best in our Bay, to be ready for Sea. Near the Cove is a
perpetual spring which is conveyed in a wooden spout so as readily
to afford any quantity of the purest water. A constant stream fills
the spout & wastes into the Sea. There are two Rope walks in the
Town. One in Middle street, not far eastward of the Meeting House,
belonging to Beach, & another in the lower part of the Town, form
erly Seargeant's now Plummer's. From the Ships we went to the
Bank, It is a building in Front Street, of one Story. We descended
into the vault which is formed of the largest stone which can be
easily transported & it is formed in the cavity of a rock. It is small
but more secure everywhere than at the door. The back room of
the Bank is a Lawyer's office and it is kept by Mr. John Rowe, their
present Representative. Towards the entrance of the Town is the
New School house, of two apartments, one on each story, with a
Cupola. And behind the Meeting House is the Proprietor's School
which has two fronts & has also a Cupola & two Doors under the
same frame. A Mr. Black, now in Gloucester, proposes to open an
Academy & to unite his labours with two young gentlemen who are
to teach writing & arithmetic, Messieurs. Saville & Woods. It is
said that Mr. Black has engaged the School, but that the plan of an
Academy will not probably succeed. As we passed along we found

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 161
the Minister directing the plowing of a spot of land adjoining to an
house left him by an antiquated Irish midwife, who died in the Town.
We visited Mr. D, Rogers, who has long been a man of influence in
the Town, & paid our respects to his Son John Gorham Rogers, a
worthy gentleman. At Table, at Mr. Phelps', we found his Wife's
Sister. They are g. daughters of Mr. Coffin, whose farm is so well
known opposite to the entrance of Jebacco, & who had lately de
ceased. Mrs. Phelps is a worthy and agreable woman & soon formed
a party for us to go to Eastern point. Mr. Smith, Mr. Phelps, & their
wives, Mr. Fulger's wife, Capt. Gibaut & Mrs. Coffin & myself &
Clementina Beach, made the party. Mrs. Fulger is sister of Miss
Beach, both fine women. Clementina is a young lady of accomplish
ments. We enjoyed ourselves and retumed to tea at Mr. Phelps'.
In Cape Ann they tell us that Hog Island in Jebacco, offers the best Veal
in the Country, & that their own Springy tho' Rocky Hills afford
the best mutton in America.
16. We had engaged this day to dine with Mr. Fulger. In our
visit to the Town we had an opportunity to be informed of the great
increase of new houses. As Squam & Upper Town have decayed,
the Harbour has been enriched. The military Character of Cape
Ann is established. On a point of land, they can afford to employ
the greatest hospitality towards all who visit them, and forming all
their pleasures among themselves, they must be fond of all social in
stitutions. They excell in their parties, in their clubs, & also in their
Military parades. A late proof has been given. Their Artillery
House is beyond example in the Country. It is of two Stories. In
the lower there is all the Arrangement of an Arsenal or a Laboratory.
Their own Two Brass field pieces, & Two Iron 9 pound, with all the
apparatus are disposed in the best order. In front is a piazza & the
building has folding doors which open under it & form a full com
munication with it. Over the Piazza is a balustrade & place to ac
commodate a large company & the apartment of the second story is
provided for an hall of entertainment. In front is suspended a Bell
given to call them to dinner. It has this inscription: Ansottes
segen ist alles gelocheben. It is friendship which gave the bell in
dependently of its being cast in Denmark, or so inscribed. At

162 REV. WILLLAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799.
Dinner we had the Company of Mr. Black who is a Scotchman of
great pretentions, as was said, but nothing could be ascertained ex
cept that he had the education of many travelling Scotchmen. Af
ter diimer Mr. Fulger permitted me to examine a Collection of shells
& was kind enough to present some of them to me. We left his
amiable family at five o'clock & reached Salem at eight in the even
ing, abundantly gratified with our company & amply paid for our
visit to Cape Ann. How unhappy it is that an air of dissipation
should appear in so lovely a place in which they could give to them
selves any manners they please without any danger of contamination
from foreign influence & fashions. I gave at Table, being requested,
"The hospitality of Cape Ann, may it be preserved in our National
Character." In no place which I have ever visited can they so easily
combine for any social pleasure, in no place can they pursue pleasure
with so little interruption and yet they have all the jealousies, com
petitions & even enmities, belonging to little Towns & to human
Nature. ********
June 5, 1799. Rode to Phillips' Beach with S. C. Found Mr.
Phillips, aet. 83, living. The House was built for his Grandfather
in 1660. An ash frame now firm. This part called Quamskutt.*
His g. g. father was among the first settlers. Everything wears the
appearance of neglect. A beautiful Ash before the house was planted
from a walking stick with which he drove homewards his team. They
still complain of Foxes, Martins, etc. in their woods, tho' they are
not so common as the skunks. At Phillips' I saw an old Cradle much
resembling that at Boston, in which John Massey the first Male Child
was rocked.
6. Went with a party of friends upon invitation to dine with the
Widow Grafton at Wenham, We amused ourselves with the Ale
wives, Lamprey eels & small fish of Wenham pond & after an ele
gant social dinner we went to Pleasant pond about 1/2 mile north
westward from the meeting house. There is a beautiful prospect
from the ridge eastward of the pond. The pond is of about 40 acres
& the approach is beautiful upon the western & especially on the
* Swampscott.

REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 163
eastern side. On the north & South are communications with
Swamps. I went round the pond. After Tea we retumed to Salem.
Having no boats we could not enjoy the fishing which is so good in
these ponds. The lands near Pleasant pond are like the dungeons,
are in great hollows, but too much cleared of wood. In the grave
yard we found the monument of Revd. Joseph Gerrish who succeed
ed to Revd. John Fisk. It has been repaired by the Inhabitants but
a small part was legible. There are also the monuments of Revd.
Ward, Warren, & Swain, who have been successively ministers in
this Town. We foimd also two of the name of Fisk. One, a Dea
con aet. 85, who must have been bom in 1644, & a WiUiam Fisk,
later. By this it appears that all Wenham did not probably remove
to Chelmsford with Revd. John Fisk, & probably he might leave
some Children upon his Lands in Wenham. Mr. Gerrish's Latin in
scription expressed that he was born in Newbury & as the word
Parker appeared, probably educated under Rev. Parker of that place.

JEAN PIERRE BRISSOT DE WARVILLE IN 1788.
THIS French writer was the son of an innkeeper. He studied
law in Paris and early gained a wide reputation by his pub
lished works. In 1788 he founded a society friendly to the
negro slaves and the same year came to the United States to inquire
into their condition. Returning to France the next year, he at once
took an active part in the Revolution. After a time he incurred the
hostility of Robespierre, was arrested, and after a long imprison
ment was guillotined on Oct. 31, 1793. While in America he adopt
ed the habits of the Quakers and on his return to France he intro
duced the fashion of wearing the hair without powder. His record
of American travels was published under the following title : Nou-
veau Voyage dans les Etats Unisfait en 1788, 2 vols. Paris, 1791. An
English translation was published in London the next year and an
American edition was issued in 1797 at Boston.
I left Boston the 2d of October [1788], after dinner with my
worthy friend Mr. Barrett ; to whom I cannot pay too sincere a trib
ute of praise for his amiable qualities, or of gratitude for the read
iness he has manifested on all occasions in procuring me information
on the objects of my research. We slept at Salem, fifteen miles from
Boston ; an excellent gravelly road, bordered with woods and mead
ows. This road pases the fine bridge of Maiden, which I mentioned
before, and the town of Lynn remarkable for the manufacture of
women's shoes. It is calculated that more than an hundred thou
sand pairs are annually exported from this town. At Reading, not
far from Lynn, is a similar manufacture of men's shoes.
Salem, like all other towns in America, has a printing press and a
gazette. I read in this gazette the discourse pronounced by M.
D'Epremenil, when he was arrested in full parliament in Paris. What
an admirable invention is the press ! it brings all nations acquainted
with each other, and electerizes all men by the recital of good actions,
which thus become common to all. This discourse transported the
daughters of my hostess : D'Epremenil appeared to them a Brutus.
(164)

JEAN PIERRE BRISSOT DE WARVILLE IN 1788. 165
It was cold and we had a fire in a Franklin stove. These are com
mon here, and those chimneys which have them not; are built as de
scribed by M. de Crevecoeur : they rarely smoke.
The mistress of the tavern (Robinson*) was taking tea with her
daughters; they invited us to partake with them. I repeat it, we
have nothing like this in France. It is a general remark thro' all the
United States: a tavern-keeper must be a respectable man, his
daughters are well drest, and have an air of decency and civility.
We had good provisions, good beds, attentive servants ; neither the
servants nor the coachman ask any money. It is an excellent prac
tice ; for this tax with us not only becomes insupportable on account
of the persecutions which it occasions, but it gives men an air of
baseness, and accustoms to the servility of avarice. Salem has a
considerable commerce to the islands, and a great activity of busi
ness by the cod fishery.
In passing to Beverly, we crossed another excellent wooden bridge.
The construction of this bridge, and the celerity with which it was
built, gives a lively idea of the activity and industry of Massachusetts.
It cost but three thousand pounds ; the toll for an horse and carriage
is eight pence ; the opening in the middle for the passage of vessels,
is of a simpler mechanism than that of Charlestown. On the road to
Beverly I saw a flourishing manufacture of cotton. At Londonderry
a town chiefly inhabited by Irish, is a considerable manufacture of
linen. We dined at Newbury with Mr. Tracy, who formerly enjoyed
a great fortune, and has since been reduced by the failure of different
enterprises, particularly by a contract to furnish masts for the mar
ine of France. The miscarriage of this undertaking, was owing to
his having employed agents in procuring the first cargo who de
ceived him, and sent a parcel of refuse masts that were fit only for
fire-wood. Though the manner in which Mr. Tracy had been de
ceived was sufficiently proved ; yet, for the clerks of the marine at
Versailles, whose interest it was to decry the American timber, this
fact was sufficient to enable them to cause it ever after to be rejected.
And Mr. Tracy's first cargo was condemned and sold at Havre for
* The wife of Samuel Robnison who kept the " Sun Tavern,'' previously kept
by William Goodhue.

166 JEAN PIERRE BRISSOT DE WARVILLE IN 1788.
250 1. He lives retired ; and with the consolation of his respectable
wife, supports his misfortunes with dignity and firmness.
Newbury would be one of the best ports in the United States, were
it not for a dangerous bar at the entrance. The business of ship
building has much declined here. In the year 1772 ninety vessels
were built here, in 1788 only three. This town stands at the mouth
of the fine river Merrimack, abounding in fish of different kinds.
Twenty -four miles of fine road brings you from Newbury to Ports
mouth, the capital of New-Hampshire. . . .
We left Portsmouth on Sunday, and came to dine at Mr. Dalton's,
five miles from Newbury, on the Merrimack : this is one of the fine-
est situations that can be imagined. It presents an agreeable pros
pect of seven leagues. This farm is extremely well arranged ; I saw
on it thirty cows, numbers of sheep, &c. and a well furnished garden.
Mr. Dalton occupies himself much in gardening, a thing generally
neglected in America. He has fine grapes, apples, and pears ; but he
complains that children steal them ; an offence readily pardoned in a
free country.
The Americans are not accustomed to what we call grand feasts ;
they treat strangers as they treat themselves every day, and they
live well. They say they are not anxious to starve themselves the
week, in order to gormandize on Sunday. This trait will paint to you
a people at their ease, who wish not to torment themselves for show.
Mr. Dalton's house presented me with the image of a true pa-
triarchial family, and of great domestic felicity ; it is composed of
four or five handsome young women, drest with decent simplicity,
his amiable wife, and his venerable father of eighty years. This
respectable old man preserves a good memory, a good appetite, and
takes habitual exercise. He has no wrinkles in his face, which seems
to be a characteristic of American old age ; at least I have observed it.
From Mr. Dalton's we came to Andover, where my companion pre
sented me to the respectable pastor of the parish. Dr. Symmes, in
whom I saw a true model of a minister of reUgion, purity of morals,
simplicity in his manner of life, and gentleness of character. He
cheers his solitude with a respectable wife, by whom he has had
many children.

GEORGE WASHINGTON IN 1789.
f TN THE summer following his inauguration Washington had a
^1 severe sickness and was confined to his bed for about six weeks.
With the idea of regaining his health and also of seeing some
thing of the New England States he set off on a tour that extended
as far as Portsmouth, N. H. He did not pass through Rhode Island
as that State had not yet come into the Union and technically was
foreign territoryl At Boston, Governor Hancock from a mistaken no
tion of precedent tried to compel Washington to make the first formal
call and finally, when forced by pubUc sentiment to pay his respects
to the President he went wrapped in flannels and pleading an attack
of the gout. With this solitary exception he was received every
where with demonstrations of veneration and affection. /His journal
of this tour was published under the following title : Diary of George
Washington from 1789 to 1791 ; embracing the opening of the first Con
gress, and his tours through New England . . . Edited by Benson J.
Lossing, New York, 1860\
[Oct. 29, 1789] From Boston, besides the number of citizens which
accompanied me to Cambridge, and many of them from thence to
Lynn — the Boston Corps of Horse escorted me to the line between
Middlesex and Essex County, where a party of Horse, with Genl.
Titcomb, met me, and conducted me through Marblehead (which is
4 piiles out of the way, but I wanted to see it,) to Salem.
(The chief employment of the People of Marblehead (males) is fish
ing ; about 110 vessels, and 800 men and boys are engaged in this
business. Their chief export is fish. About 5000 souls are said to
be in this place, which has the appearance of antiquity ; the Houses
are old ; the streets dirty ; and the common people not very clean.
Before we entered the Town we were met and attended by a Com'e
till we were handed over to the Select men, who conducted us, salut
ed by artillery, into the Town, to the House of a Mrs. Lee, where
there was a cold coUation prepared ; after partaking of which we
visited the Harbour, their fish flakes for curing fish, &c., and then
proceeded (first receiving an Address from the Inhabitants) to Salem\
(167) '

168 GEORGE WASHINGTON IN 1789.
At the Bridge, 2 miles from this Town, we were also met by a Com
mittee, who conducted us by a Brigade of the militia and one or two
handsome Corps in Uniform, through several of the Streets to the
Town or Court House, where an Ode in honor of the President was
sung — an Address presented to him amidst the acclamations of the
People ; after which he was conducted to his Lodgings. Rec'd the
Compliments of many differt. classes of People, and in the evening,
between 7 and 8 o'clock, went to an Assembly, where there was at
least an hundred handsome and well dressed Ladies. Abt. nine I
returned to my Lodgings.
The Road from Boston to this place is here and there Stoney, tho'
level ; it is very pleasant : from most parts you are in sight of the
Sea. Meads, arable Land, and Rocky hills are much intermixed —
the latter chiefly on the left. The Country seems to be in a manner
entirely stripped of wood. The grazing is good — the Houses stand
thick. After leaving Cambridge, at the distance of 4 miles, we passed
through Mystick — then Maiden — next Lynn, where it is said 175,000
pairs of shoes (women's, chiefly) have been made in a year by abt.
400 workmen. This is only a row of houses, and not very thick, on
each side of the Road. After passing Lynn you enter Marblehead,
w'ch is 4 miles from Salem. This latter is a neat Town, and said to
contain 8 or 9000 Inhabitants. Its exports are chiefly Fish, Lumber,
and Provisions. They have in the East India Trade at this time 13
Sail of Vessels.
Friday [Oct.], 30th. A little after 8 o'clock I set out for Newbury-
Port ; and in less than 2 miles crossed the Bridge between Salem and
Beverly, which makes a handsome appearance, and is upon the same
plan of those over Charles and Mistick Rivers ; excepting that it has
not foot ways as that of the former has. The length of this bridge
is 1530 feet, and was built for about £4500, lawful money — a price
inconceivably low in my estimation, as there is 18 feet water in the
deepest parts of the River over which it is erected. This Bridge is
larger than that at Charlestown, but shorter by feet than the
other over Mistick. All of them have draw bridges, by which ves
sels pass. After passing Beverley, 2 miles, we come to the Cotton

N* lOj

W A S S A. 0 H (1 .«i r, T T S M A O A Z I N i;

VIEW OF THE COURT HOUSE AND TOWN HOUSE, SALEM,
From the engraving by S, Hill, published in the "Massachusetts Magazine, March, 1790.

GEORGE WASHINGTON IN 1789. 169
Manufactory, which seems to be carrying on with spirit by the Mr.
Cabbots (principally).
In this Manufactory they have the new Invented Carding and
Spinning Machines ; one of the first supplies the work, and four of
the latter; one of which spins 84 threads at a time by one person.
The Cotton is prepared for these Machines by being first (lightly)
drawn to a thr'd, on the common wheel ; there is also another machine
for doubling and twisting the threads for particular cloths ; this al
so does many at a time. For winding the Cotton from the Spindles,
and preparing it for the warp, there is a Reel which expedites the
work greatly. A number of Looms (15 or 16) were at work with
spring shuttles, which do more than d'ble work. In short, the whole
seemed perfect, and the Cotton stuffs w'ch they turn out, excellent
of their kind ; warp and filling both are now of Cotton. From this
place, with escorts of Horse, I passed on to Ipswich, about 10 miles ;
at the entrance of which I was met and welcomed by the Select men,
and received by a Regm't of Militia.
At this place I was met by Mr. Dalton and some other Gentlemen
from Newbury-port ; partook of a cold collation, and proceeded on
to the last mentioned place, where I was received with much respect
and parade, about 4 o'clock.
In the evening there were rockets and some other fireworks' — and
every other demonstration to welcome me to the Town. This place
is pleasantly situated on Merrimack River, and appears to have car
ried on (here and above) the shipbuilding business to a grt. extent.
The number of souls is estimated at 5000.
Saturday [Oct.] 31st. Left Newbury-port a little after 8 o'clock
(first breakfasting with Mr. Dalton) and to avoid a wider ferry, more
inconvenient boats, and a piece of heavy sand, we crossed the River
at Salisbury, two miles above, and near that further about' — and in
three miles came to the line wch. divides the State of Massschusetts
from that of New Hampshire. Here I took leave of Mr. Dalton and
many other private Gentlemen who accompanied me ; also of Gen'l
Titcomb, who met rae on the line between Middlesex and Essex
Counties — Corps of light Horse, and many officers of Militia — and
was rec'd by the President of the State of New Hampshire— the Vice-

170 GEORGE WASHINGTON IN 1789.
President ; some of the Council — Messrs. Langdon and Wingate of
the Senate — Col". Parker, MarshaU of the State, and many other re
spectable characters ; besides several Troops of well cloathed Horse
in handsome Uniforms, and many officers of the MiUtia also in hand
some (white and red) uniforms of the Manufacture of the State. . . .
[Wednesday, Nov. 4th]. From hence, passing through Kingstown,
(6 miles from Exeter) I arrived at Haverhill about half-past two, and
stayed all night. Walked through the town, which stands at the
head of the tide of Merrimack River, and in a beautiful part of the
country. The lands over which I travelled to day, are pretty much
mixed in places with stone — and the growth with pines — till I came
near to Haverhill, where they disappeared, and the land had a more
fertile appearance. The whole were pretty well cultivated, but used
(principally) for grass and Indian corn.
In Haverhill is a Duck manufactory, upon a small but ingenious
scale, under the conduct of Colo. [Blodgett].
At this manufactory one small person turns a wheel which em
ploys eight spinners, each acting independently of each other, so as
to occasion no interruption of the rest if any one of them is stopped
— ^whereas at the Boston manufactory of this article, each spinner has
a small girl to turn the wheel. The looms are also somewhat differ
ently constructed from those of the common kind, and upon an im
proved plan. The inhabit' ts of this small village were well disposed
to welcome me to it by every demonstration which could evince their
joy. Thursday, [Nov.] 5th. About sunrise I set out, crossing the Mer
rimack River at the town, over to the township of Bradford, and in
nine miles came to Abbot's tavern, in Andover, where we breakfast
ed, and met with much attention from Mr. Phillips, President of the
Senate of Massachusetts, who accompained us through Bellariki to
Lexington, where I dined, and viewed the spot on which the first
blood was spilt in the dispute with Great Britain, on the 19th of
April, 1775.

JOHN DRAYTON IN 1794.
JOHN Drayton was born in South Carolina in 1766 and educated
at Princeton and in England. He became Governor of South
Carolina in 1800 and afterwards was a United States Judge for
that State serving for ten years. He was the author of several works
including the following : Letters written during a tour through the
Northern and Eastern States . . . Charleston, 1794,
The whole way from Boston to Portsmouth, is a thickly populated,
and well cultivated country : the road is perhaps one of the finest in
the United States. You pass from farm to farm, from village to vil
lage, and from town to town, in quick succession. Some few miles
from Boston is a small village called Lynn ; celebrated for the vast
quantities of shoes made there for exportation. The shoe-maker's
shops, are almost equal to the number of dwelling houses in the town.
The road leads through the towns of Salem, Beverly, and Newbury
port : which, for riches and commerce, have a right to be considered
as some of the most respectable towns in America.
Two or three miles beyond Newbury-port, is a beautiful wooden
bridge of one arch, thrown across the Merrimack river : whose length
is one hundred and sixty feet ; and whose height is forty feet above
the level of high water. For beauty and strength, it has certainly
no equal in America : and I doubt whether as a wooden bridge, there
be any to compare with it elsewhere. The strength of the bridge is
much increased above the common mode in use, by pieces of timber
placed upon it, and shouldered into each other. They run upon the
bridge, in three lines ; parrallel with the length of the bridge, and
with each other; so as to raake two distinct passage-ways for carriages.
These braces, are some feet in height, and are connected on the
top by cross pieces, affording sufficient room for carriages to pass
underneath, without inconvenience. It is said, that the upper work
has as great a tendency to support the weight of the bridge ; as the
sleepers, upon which it is built. I had not time to stay there longer
than five minutes ; so must be excused in a sketch which I have taken
of it : and that was not done upon the spot, but only by recollection.
(171)

DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796.

jr I '^HE following account of the principal towns in Essex County

frpi
V I was written by a trained observer — a man of varied ex-
perience. A Peer of France, he was deeply interested in ag
riculture and the mechanical arts and while in America bought a
farm in Pennsylvania and spent some time in agricultural experi
ments. He was in public life at the outbreak of the French Revolu
tion and maintained a moderate attitude until 1792 when he was
dismissed and wisely removed to England from whence, two years
later, he came to America. In 1798 he retumed to France. He es
tablished in Paris the flrst savings bank and also was influential in
introducing vaccination into France^ His travels in the United States
are of particular interest for the extended comments on the com
merce and development of the country. They were published in
French, in eight small volumes, in New York in 1797, and translated
and published in London with the following title : ( Travels through
the United States of North America . . . in the years 1795, 1796 and
1797 . . . London, 1800 J
On the first project I had formed to descend the river St. Lawrence,
to visit Halifax, and to return into the United States through the
district of Maine, I intended to visit General Knox, who, with ex
quisite politeness, had given me in Philadelphia an invitation to that
effect, and whose mansion was situated on my way. On my arrival
I entertained the same idea, although at that time the district of
Maine lay rather out of my way ; and the repeated proofs of friend
ship I received from the General confirmed me in my resolution. I
accordingly embarked with him for St. George's River, whither he
retumed after a four months absence.
The house of the General is situated about two hundred miles from
Boston, both by land and water. At this time of the year the passage
is generally made in twenty-four hours ; but peculiar circumstances
prevented us for three or four days from avaiUng ourselves of the
favourable wind ; and after these impediments had been removed,
our captain wished, as soon as possible, to improve the first appear-
(172)

DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796. 173
ance of fine weather. This was very trifling indeed, when he set
sail, for which reason we were scarcely able the first evening to clear
the mouth of the harbour. On the second day we were forced by a
thick fog, and strong indication of a heavy storm, to make the bay
of Cape Ann. These measures of precaution, adopted by our captain,
of which we could not but approve, removed us forty miles out of
the straight road. As soon as the fog and indication of a storm had
disappeared, we got again under way ; but meeting with a dead calm,
we were obliged to come once more to an anchor, within four hundred
yards of our flrst anchoring place. The wind generally died away
early in the morning as well as the afternoon, for which reason we
reached not the General's mansion till after a passage of seventy-two
hours, and after having sailed fifteen miles up St. George's River.
The circumstance of our being compelled to put into the bay of
Cape Ann afforded me an opportunity of seeing the drying of cod
fish. uThe whole coast of Massachusetts, and especially of the dis
trict oiMaine, is inhabited by fishermen, engaged in the fishery on
the great sand-bank ; they bring all the fish on shore, where they
receive the last dressing. The fish are washed as soon as they are
taken out of the water, and laid first in heaps, that the water may
run off. Then they remain for two or three days exposed to the air,
after which they are placed on hurdles, about four or five feet in
breadth, three or four feet above the ground, and as long as the field
on which they are erected, generally about a hundred or a hundred
and twenty yards. The fish are laid on these hurdles, first three or
four, one upon another, and, after they have lost most of the water,
every fish separately ; they are frequently turned that they may get
thoroughly dry, which generally takes five or six days ; at last they
are packed in cases, pressed down, and exported either to the West
India Islands, or Europe?)
The best fish, that is, those which, caught in the first fishing months,
are superiour to the rest from their being dried more slowly, are
sent to Spain. They are sold at double the price of those, which are
caught later in the year, when the heat is more intense, and which
are exported either to the West Indies, or some part of the continent.
But frora among the fish of the better sort, which are destined for

174 DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796.
Spain, the best are picked out for those inhabitants of Massachusetts,
who are peculiarly fond of salt stock fish ; and there are in that county
few families, who have not, every Saturday, a good dish of stock fish
on their table. As to the usual partition of the proceeds of the fishery,
it is as follows, viz.
The ships employed in the fishery, which are generally of seventy
tuns burthen, are navigated by a master, seven seamen, and a boy.
The owner of the ship has a fourth of the profit ; the dryer on the
coast an eighth, and the rest is divided among the master and sea
men, in proportion to the fish they have caught. The expence for
candles, wood, bait, and salt is deducted, previously to the partition ;
every seaman takes care of the fish he has caught. A vessel of sixty
tons burthen takes upon an average twelve hundred cod fish, which
are generally worth two dollars and a half per hundred weight, but
cost at present from five to six dollars.
The town of Gloucester, which is situated near Cape Ann, employs
in the fishery, at the great bank, about forty or fifty yachts and brigs.
These vessels are of the burthen of one hundred or one hundred
and ten tons ; make in general three voyages in a year, if they com
mence fishing in March, and continue until November, when the fish
ery terminates. Before the war, the town of Gloucester, though less
considerable than at present, employed more vessels in the fishery
than at this time. This decrease, which seems extraordinary, since
the number of ships built in this port is much greater now than at
that time, originates from the comparatively greater advantages,
which the ship-owners derive from trade. But the number of towns,
which share in the fishery on the great banks, is also more consider
able than formerly ; so that although the share of single places in the
fishery may have decreased within these last fifteen years, yet the
number of those that share in it has greatly encreased.
Besides the fishery on the great bank, the coasts of Massachusetts,
and the district of Maine, furnish also large quantities of stock fish.
They are neither so large, nor so plentiful, as at the great bank ; yet
this fishery affords useful employment to a considerable number of
ships, which proceed only five or six miles from the coast, return
home every week, and are not exposed to the same danger as ships

DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT iK 1796. 175
engaged in the other fishery, which mix their fish with those that are
caught near Newfoundland.
The road of Cape Ann lies south-west from the Cape. It is capa
cious and safe. On a commanding eminence on the coast, a fort is
now constructing, which will most effectually protect both the road
and its entrance. Within the fort a block-house is built, the lower
part of which serves for a powder-magazine ; and that part, which
is destined to be inhabited by the garrison, is built with so much care
that in all probability it will be bomb-proof.
The town of Gloucester, situated at the bottom of the bay, is pleas
ant, though not regular. It contains a number of stores or shops,
and a considerable proportion of good houses. Like all the other
small towns around, it has an air of brisk and thriving industry.
In 1794, commodities to the value of two hundred and twenty
thousand eight hundred and fifty dollars were exported out of Glou
cester ; but its exports for the present year will scarcely amount to
one hundred and eighty thousand dollars. Its chief trading inter
course is with the West Indies.
We have obtained little new information in the course of our voy
age thither. We came on board a vessel belonging to St. George's
River, which usually takes in its lading there. The principal com
mercial business of the province of Maine consists in the exportation of
timber to Boston. It is conveyed in small yachts from eighty to a
hundred and twenty tons burthen; sometimes brigs and schooners are
employed. The yachts are, however, preferred, because they are light
er than the others, and can be navigated by fewer hands. At times
these yachts will proceed as far as New York, Philadelphia, Norfolk,
Baltimore, or Charlestown. From these places they are always
freighted back with a new cargo, by which the profits of the voyage
are increased. From Boston they must retum empty, and therefore
less readily undertake that voyage. The clear profits of a single
voyage were estimated at sixty-six dollars. One of these vessels
made, last year, sixteen or seventeen voyages ; and the owner's neat
gains for that length of time amounted to between one thousand and
fifty-six and one thousand one hundred and twelve dollars; while the
cost of the vessel was from three thousand to three thousand three

176 DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796.
hundred and fifty dollars. When the timber is uncommonly excellent
in its quality, the profits are greater. The returns are also unusually
good from cargoes of lime, of which there begins to be abundance
found in the province of Maine. When the population of this prov
ince shall have adequately increased, and its quarries shall be wrought
in a due proportion, it will then find a very ample source of wealth
in the exportation of its lime stone.
The vessel in which we sailed was dirty and incommodious. Like
the rest of this craft, it was fitted for the reception of goods, not for
the accommodation of a few casual passengers. But the attentions
of the captain made everything as agreeable as possible to us. It is
to be observed, that these vessels very often go without a lading, and
many times return even without ballast ; a condition of the ship, which
makes prudence and vigilence in the captain peculiarly necessary.
Our food, during the short voyage, consisted chiefly of fish, which
we caught ourselves. Of these there is on the coast such plenty, that
before your line has been cast two minutes, you are sure to have a
fish on your hook, which will weigh, at the least, two pounds, often
not less thon twelve pounds. They are of the species of the, /cod fish
and the halibut ; the cod fish are larger, and worse in their flavour
than those of many other places. . . .
Before you arrive at Newbury Port, you have to cross the river
Merrimack, by means of a bridge, which, prior to the building of that
thrown over the Piscataqua, was considered as the most elegant in
all New England. It is at least shorter by one third than the latter,
and the arch, which measures only one hundred and thirty feet in
width, is supported by a crooked piece of timber, measuring twenty
feet, which gives the bridge, at first sight, a heavy appearance. Along
the banks of the river, before you come to this bridge, lies Newbury
new town, a pretty extensive village, where a number of ships are
built, which are afterwards equipped, and freighted in Newbury Port.
Mr. Langdon had furnished me with a letter of recommendation to
his friend JACKSON, from whom I flattered myself with the hopes
of receiving some information relative to the town and its trade.
But this gentleman being absent in Boston, I was obliged to content
myself with the intelligence I could procure from some inhabitants,

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^^ Pmosfect or TMB Town o^ NEWBUKT PORT.
DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796. 177
whom I found in the inn. I learnt that the trade of this town, which,
as weU as that of Portsmouth, had decayed very much since the con
clusion of the war, was, for the last years, considerably on the ad
vance ; that it was of the same nature with that carried on at Ports
mouth, and other parts of Massachusetts ; that the quantity of ton
nage now employed by this town, amounted to sixteen thousand tons ;
that the exports were valued, in 1791, at two hundred and fifty thou
sand one hundred and ninety-three dollars ; in 1792, at two hundred
and seventy-three thousand five hundred and forty-three dollars ;
in 1794, at four hundred and ninety-five thousand four hundred and
five dollars ; in 1795, at four hundred and ten thousand five hundred
and eighty-six dollars; that it has very few fishermen; that the har
bour and moorings are good, safe, and deep, the quays commodious
and very extensive. The town is almost as large as Portsmouth.
Unfortunately there is a shoal of quicksands at the entrance of the
haven, which obstructs the navigation two or three times in the
course of the year. To guard against the mischief, which other
wise might befall vessels, that have made long voyages, two light
houses have been erected on the coast, one of which is moveable,
and capable of being always stationed behind the other, according
to the actual situation of the pass. By steering their course direct
against that point, at which the second light-house is concealed be
hind the first, vessels are enabled to sail day and night into the har
bour, without running the risk of driving on the sand banks.
Newbury Port is built on the river Merrimack. It has ten public
schools. A society of inhabitants of the town, known by the name
of the Sea Company, have established a very benevolent institution,
consisting of several small houses on Plumb Island, which lies in the
mouth of the river, where persons, who have suffered ship-wreck, find
some provisions, fire- wood, and other articles of immediate necessity.
Newbury Port carries on a considerable trade with the Antilles,
and receives molasses in retum, which keeps from eight to ten boiling-
houses in employ. There are likewise some breweries in the town,
and a very large nail manufactory, which appeared to me to be very
skilfuUy conducted. Newbury Port contains about four thousand
inhabitants.

178 DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796.
The road from Portsmouth to Boston is one continued series of
houses, shop-booths, small manufactories and villages. It is an un
interrupted garden. The road is in every part better than any I
have ever seen in America. It would be considered a delightful
road, even in the most beautiful districts of France and England.
Ipswich, one of the most considerable villages on this road, is sit
uated on a river, to which it gives name, and on which some ships
are built. This small harbour participates in the large trade carried
on with Massachusetts, but not so extensively at present, as in for
mer years. Flax is pretty abundantly cultivated in all districts of
the province, and seems to thrive well. But it is said to be in great
er abundance at a greater distance from the coast, at least every
where more so than hemp.
Beverley is another small neat village, through which the road
passes to Boston. Its harbour lies on the South River. It is situat
ed on a peninsula formed by that and the North River. The trade of
this village is confined entirely to stock-fish, in which branch forty
vessels are employed. The fish are cured in the village itself, which
renders it very unpleasant to pass through. The number of vessels,
which sail from this port to Europe or the colonies, is not considerable.
Salem engrosses almost the whole trade.
Salem is one of the handsomest small towns in the United States,
ana is separated from Beverley only by a bridge, fifteen hundred feet
in length. The number of its inhabitants, which increases yearly,
amounts to ten thousand. The town, in reference to its trade, ranks
with those of the sixth rank in America, and with those of the second
rank in Massachusetts. The uncommonly active and enterprising
spirit of its inhabitants is the sole reason which can be ascribed for
the great extent and rapid progress of its trad^ This town has no
cultivated land behind it to supply its exports, which in America is
with justice considered as one of the most essential articles of com
merce. Its haven is but small, at ebb the quays are dry, and vessels
of a larger size must even, at high water, unload a part of their cargo,
in order to be able to reach these quays. Yet, notwithstanding these
inconveniences, the annual freightage from this port exceeds twenty
thousand tona The vessels employed in this service sail to all parts of

DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796. 179
the glob^; twelve of them, for instance, are engaged in the East India
trade, one of which arrived from Calcutta the day prior to my entering
the town, after an absence of nine months and twelve days, of which
thirty-two days were passed at Calcutta, ^[the number of vessels,
constituting the above mentioned rate of twenty thousand tons,
amounts to one hundred and fifty, one hundred of which are in the for
eign trade, twenty are coasters, and thirty follow the employment of
fishing. The exports amounted, in 1791, to six hundred and ten thou
sand and five dollars ; in 1792, to six hundred and fifty-seven thou
sand three hundred and three dollars ; in 1793, to eight hundred and
twelve thousand and sixty-six dollars ; in 1794, to one million four
hundred and fifty-two thousand four hundred and eleven dollars ; in
1795, to one million five hundred and four thousand five hundred
and eleven dollars/ As Salem and Beverley have only one custom
house in common for both places, the exports from the latter form
a proportion in this calculation, but it is very inconsiderable.
(with the exception of two or three large fortunes of nearly three
hundred thousand dollars, the opulence of the merchants is not very
great ; but all the inhabitants find themselves in a flourishing con
dition, which is the less subject to a reverse, as the mode of living is
very frugal, and as luxury is hitherto little known amongst them.
Hence all the profits acquired by trade, are reimbarked in trade; and
this accumulation of interest upon interest insures them a large capital,
by which they are enabled to bear up against any casual losses'^ The
major part of the shipping from Salem is freighted from Virginia or
South Carolina. In these provinces of America, the land yields a
greater abundance of produce, than the vessels employed in their
ports will suffice to export. The industry of the northern ports,
therefore, is here very valuable, the produce being in an inverse ratio
to the shipping, compared with the southern states, fealem exports,
however, annually from seven to eight thousand pouruls of salt beef,
and eighteen thousand barrels of fish. This latter article has, for
some years past, been greatly on the decUne, the inhabitants of Salem,
and the other ports, preferring the wholesale trade as more lucrative
The commodities imported from the East and West Indies, form
likewise a branch of the export trade of this port. Hemp, iron, Rus-

180 DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796.
sia leather, are emplyed in the coasting trade. Few foreign vessels
put in here. The inhabitants of Salem say, that their own industry
leaves no room for the speculations of strangers.
An European, who fancies that a man cannot be qualified to act
as a captain of a ship, till he has made a number of voyages, and
passed through a regular course of study, is not a little surprized,
when he is informed, that the merchants of Salem entrust their ships
to young persons, who have frequently been only one year at sea.
As they have grown up in the business of the compting-house, they
are perfectly acquainted with the price, the quality, and the sale of
each different commodity. The first year they are associated with
a skilful steersmate, and act at once in the capacity of captain and
supercargo. Their vessels, whatever may be the cause, do not suffer
ship-wreck more frequently than other ships, which are more cautious
ly navigated. In the course of a few years these young people become
merchants themselves, the captain's profits being very considerable.
As they generally are appointed from the families of merchants, they
receive assistance from their employers.
The inconveniences which Salem experiences from the shallowness
of its harbour, secure them against all hostile attacks. The entrance
to the haven is not in the slightest degree defended, nor is it, indeed,
capable of defence.
I was upon terms of great intimacy with Mr. Goodhue, a member
of the Congress, whom I had seen at Philadelphia. The friendly re
ception that gentleman gave me, and the patience with which he re
solved my questions, entitled him to the same praise, as indeed all
the persons are entitled to, whom I met with in the course of my
long journey. Mr. Goodhue is a man of strong intellect, of very
plain manners, and is very well informed. In his political principles
he is a federalist, and of course an advocate for the treaty with Eng
land. The town of Salem entertains the same opinion as he does,
in this respect, chiefly on account of their dread of a war, which they
consider as the inevitable consequence of the non-ratification of the
treaty. Before I take my leave of Salem, I must remark, that the day
previous to my departure, a vessel arrived in this port from Bordeaux,

DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796. 181
which brought a great quantity of silver dishes and plates, in pay
ment for flour, which had been sold to France. The plate was val
ued by weight, and constituted a part of the confiscated property of
the emigrants.
jSalem is the capital of the county of Essex, and contains, upon an
a\^rage, about nine thousand inhabitants. It is a handsome town,
the houses are good, small, and neat, and perfectly accord with the
manner of the inhabitant^l The Senate House is a spacious, and
even elegant building.
Salem has a sail-cloth manufactory, which employs a great num
ber of skilful hands.
This town is the second settlement erected by the Europeans, in
the Massachusetts. It was begun in 1628, and was the principal
scene of the cruelties, which ignorance, superstition, and the perse
cuting spirit of the priests, and their deluded votaries, inflicted, in
1692, on the pretended sorcerers.
TOn the same bay with Salem lies another small port, which, in re
spect to its shipping, is of greater consequence than Beverley. Mar
blehead, which is situated in the midst of rocks, trades only in stock
fish. All the men are so entirely occupied in fishing, that the town,
to a stranger, who passes through the streets, appears to be solely
inhabited by women and children, all of whom have a most miser
able and wretched appearance. Marblehead has a custom-house, and
the exports from this place consist in a variety of articles, the value
of which, in 1794, amounted to one hundred and twenty-four thous
and doUara
Lynn, which is dependent upon the former place, is another small
haven, lying nine miles nearer to Boston. It is famous for its shoe
manufactory. There is scarcely a house, which is not inhabited by
a shoe-maker; four hundred thousand pairs, most of the women's
shoes, are made here every year. This port carries on no other trade
than the exportation of shoes to Boston, New York, and Philadelphia,
from which places a great number are sent over to England. A
quantity are even exported directly to Europe from Lynn itself.

ROBERT GILMOR IN 1797.
ROBERT Gilmor was a gentleman of large fortune who lived in
Baltimore, Maryland, where he possessed a gallery of paintings
and sculpture and a cabinet of minerals and coins. His father
was a prosperous merchant and the son travelled widely for those
days. He was only twenty-three years old when he made his tour
through New England which he iUustrated with pen and ink sketches.
He was famous for his hospitality and during his life kept volumin
ous journals which are still preserved by his descendants. He died
in 1848. His account of travels in Massachusetts was published by
the Boston Public Library in its Bulletin for April, 1892 under the
following title : Memorandums made in a tour to the Eastern States in
the year 1797, by Robert Gilmor.
On Thursday afternoon, Mr. Hay, (a fellow boarder) & I took our
seats in the Salem Stage and at Dark arrived at Salem. We had
time to visit several places in this town, particularly the wharves,
where we saw a number of fine vessels.
This place carries on an extensive commerce & had lately (sent) out
more East Indiamen than all the rest of the United States together.
The principal merchant here, Mr Derby, has just built a most superb
house, more like a palace then the dwelling of an American mer
chant. In our way to Salem we passed through a number of pretty little
villages one of which, Lynn, is scarcely inhabited by any but shoe
makers. This little town supplies even the Southern States with
women shoes for exportation. The women work also and we scarce
ly passed a house where the trade was not carried on. A woman
can make four pair a day & a man has been mentioned to me who
could make double that quantity.
We left Salem about 7 the next morning in the Portsmouth Stage
which left Philada (?) * that day. As there was not room for us all,
and I did not choose to be left behind, I agreed with Mr. Hay to ride
on the coachman's box with him alternately for 25 miles, when one
*Probably means Boston. (182)

ELIAS HASKET DERBY'S HOUSE IN SALEM, PREVIOUSLY THE HOME OF COL. WILLIAM BROWNE,
From a drawing made in 1797 by Robert Gilmor,

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m— ^_j~ ~'~^^'*m.±'Z.

VIEW OF THE BRIDGE AT HAVERHILL, OVER THE MERRIMACK RIVER,
From a drawing mado in 1797 by Robert Gilmor,

ROBERT GILMOR IN 1797. 183
of the passengers left us. I did not expect to find the seat so agre
able but after a little I preferred it to an inside one. After riding
45 miles through one of the pleasantest countries in the State, we
got to Portsmouth in the evening and met with 2 gentlemen who
had boarded with us at Mrs Archibald's waiting at the inn the stage
stopped at, to shew us lodgings in the house they put up at.
As I had omitted bringing any letters to some respectable person
in Portsmouth, I felt rather awkward when I found from the arrange
ment of the stages, I should be obliged to remain here two days.
The gentlemen who came with me had several letters, by means of
which they were always in company. A Mr Boyd however hearing
I had come along with M Hay politely invited me to dine with him
on Sunday & to join a party on Saturday evening that were going to
Piscataqua bridge, which is the only one of the kind in America and
a surprizing work. It's length is about 2200 feet, including a small
island which it rests upon in the middle of the river. From a small
rock to this island a single arch of 240 feet is thrown over the deep
est and most rapid part of the river. It is handsomely executed and
painted white. The arch is not supported by the abutments but by
braces which are opposed and support it from above. While the
company were viewing the work I ran about half a mile to the only
place where I could get a tolerable view for a picture. Then seated
on a rock I made the sketch at the end of this book, which part I
allotted for designs of such objects as struck me during my tour and
which could be comprehended in a slight sketch.
About dusk it began to rain, and we were obliged to wait till it
was over, when we rode back in our chaises to Portsmouth in a very
dark night. This bridge is distant from Ports. 6 1/2 miles.
On Sunday I dined with Mr Boyd ; in the evening drank tea with
Mrs Bowman (a lady lately married & very beautiful who was so polite
as to ask me to visit her while I staid here. She was very agreable
and kept up the spirits of the company with a great deal of gaiety.)
At 4 o'clock on Monday afternoon I got into the Stage and returned
to Boston by the way of Exeter & Haverhill. Both of which are very
pretty little villages, particularly the latter which is situated very pleas
antly on the Banks of the Merrimack. Across this river is thrown

184 ROBERT GILMOR IN 1797.
one of the new constructed bridges like that of Piscataqua, only this
has 3 arches instead of one, and the work which supports the whole
is above instead of being just below the bridge. I had time enough
before dinner to step to the water's edge and take a sketch of it.
While I stood there, with my drawing book laid upon a pile of plank
which happened to be convenient, and intent on my work, I did not
observe the tide which rose very fast and on looking down perceived
myself up to my ancles in the river. The water rose so gradually
that I did not feel it and never suspected that it could have (been)
the case.
The next day after leaving Portsmouth I got to Boston in the
evening and took up my former lodgings at Mrs Archibald's.
During this little excursion I had passed thro' a number of pretty
villages, and in most places a delightful country. The road by which
I went lay through all the principal trading towns to the Eastward
of Boston, and in a great part in sight of the sea. The one by which
I returned was made for the convenience of a number of principal
country towns; of course I had a tolerable opportunity of judging
of the country.
It is something remarkable that the people of New England in
general have adopted a number of words in common conversation &
which they interlard their discourse continually, that are not used
in the same sense by the other part of America. At Portsmouth in
New Hampshire particularly I remembered the following. If I ob
served such a thing was handsome, they would answer quite hand
some. If I asked the way or an opinion, the answer always was pre
ceded by I guess, so & so. A handsome man they call a nice man &
I am frequently asked how long I mean to tarry in such a place, or
if I made a tarry there. These and some other expressions are com
mon to a fault, and are used even by the best informed among some
of us travellers, and sometimes in company we would fall into the
same fault from a satirical disposition.

INDEX.

Abbot, Samuel, 135.
Abrahams, Woodward, 78, 79.
Adams, Conrad, 55.
John, 87.
Joseph, Rev., 91.
William, 55.
Agawam, 6, 13, 17, 21, 30.
Allen, Jonathan, Rev., 105.
Judadiah, 46.
Amesbury, 97, 104, 111.
Andover, 26, 30, 80, 105, 106, 113, 135,
137, 139, 143, 166, 170.
Andrews,  , 141.
 , Rev., 104.
Annapolis, Md., 64.
Anne, Cape, 1, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 60.
Annisquam, 29, 43, 44.
Appleton,  , xvi.
Hetty, 74.
Nathaniel, Rev., 74.
Bachelder, Stephen, Rev., 20.
Bacon,  , Col., 96.
Bagnal, Benjamin, xiv.
Bakers' Island (Salem), 120.
Balch, William, Rev., 105.
Baldwin, Simeon, 96.
Simeon E., Gov., 96.
Barnard, John, Rev., 62, 71, 127.
Thomas, Rev., 88.
Barrell, Joseph, 92, 93.
Bartlett,  , 143.
Bass, Edward, Rev., 116.
Beach, John, Capt., 129, 131.
Belcher, Jonathan, Gov., 94.
BeU, Benjamin, Rev., 97, 111.
Bentley, William, Rev., 71, 98, 103.
Beverly, 27, 84, 85, 97, 112, 115, 127,
142, 150, 165, 168, 178.
Billerica, 80.
Bishop,  , 87.
George, xii.
Bixby, William K., 64.
Black,  , 160, 162.
BUndman, Richard, Rev., 24.
Blodget,  , 110.

BoUan, WiUiam, 95.
Boston, X, xi, 18, 19, 21, 27, 36, 44, 45,
56, 57, 62, 64, 71, 73, 77, 78, 79, 85,
91, 99, 167.
Boston harbor, 2.
Boxford, 111, 113, 140, 153.
Bradford,  , 97.
Bradford, xvi, 80, 105, 109, 143, 170.
Bradstreet, John, 55.
Samuel, Dr., 55.
Brickett, James, Col., 110.
Brown, Joseph, xi.
Nathaniel, xvi.
Browne, Benjamin, 56.
William, Col., 87.
William, Maj., 55, 67, 70, 74.
Bryar, Joseph, xiii.
Burnet, William, Gov., 67, 74, 75.
Burnyeat, John, xiii.
Burroughs, Edward, 58.
Byfield, Moses, 55.
Byfield Parish, 121, 134, 142, 149.
Cabot, John, 113.
Cadillac, de la Mothe, x.
Cambridge, 53.
Cape Ann, 19, 24, 29, 34, 153, 173.
Carter, Joshua, 105.
Cary, Thomas, Rev., 103, 104, 116.
Cartwright, John, xiii.
Castiglioni, Luigi, 99.
Chalkley, Thomas, xiii.
Champlain, Samuel de, 1.
Charles river, 10.
Charlestown, 12, 30, 31, 64, 73, 76, 86.
Chastelleux, Francois Jean, Marquis,
80.
Chebacco, 123, 155, 161.
Cheever, Samuel, Rev., 62.
Choate,  , 69, 70.
Clark,  , 90, 96.
 , Rev., 71.
Clarke,  , Dr., 101.
Samuel, Rev., ix.
Clement, WUliam, 59.
Cleveland, John, Rev., 107, 124, 128.

(185)

186

INDEX.

Cobbet, Thomas, Rev., 19.
Coleman,  , Rev., 62.
Collins, Samuel, 46, 47.
Zaccheus, xiv, xv.
Comfort,  , Mrs., 37, 39, 42, 43. 44.
Concord, 80.
Cotton,  , Rev., 72.
Josiah, vii.
Cranch, Richard, 87, 88.
WUliam, Justice, 87.
Cushing,  , Dea., 88.
John, Judge, 91, 92.
Cutler, Manassah, Rev., 94, 98, 100,
115.
Dalton, Tristram, 105, 166.
Dana, Joseph, Rev., xvi, 97, 98.
Danvers, 94, 129, 130, 135, 151.
Davenport, Anthony, 81.
Dean, John, Capt., 92.
Derby, EUas Basket, 182.
Dover (N. H.), 51.
Dow, Henry, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51. 53.
Mary, 47.
Downer, J., v.
Drayton, John, 171.
Drinkwater,  , 36.
Drowne, Harry Russell, xv.
Solomon, Dr., xv.
DruUlettes, Gabriel, Father, ix.
Dudley, Thomas, Gov., xi, 13.
Dmnmer, Richard, 22.
Dvunmer Academy, 121, 134, 142.
Duncan,  , x^^.
Dunton, John, 31.
Dutch,  , xvi.
Dyer, Mary, xiv.
Eaton, Joseph, 89, 90.
Edmundson, WilUam, xiii.
Elkins, Joseph, Capt., 109.
Emerson, Bulkely, 77.
Endecott, John, Gov., x, 8, 9, 34, 89,
93, 95, 15L
Estes, Matthew, 46.
Richard, 46.
Falmouth (Me.), 90.
Farnham,  , 89, 90, 94, 95.
FiUe, de,  , 85.
Finlay, Hugh, 77.
Fiske, John, Gen., 144.
John, Rev., 24, 163.
Fletcher, T., 90.
Forster,  , 80.

Foster, — — , Dea., 88.
James, 78.
Foxcroft,  , 77.
Franklin, Benjamin, 77.
Frazier,  , 94.
Freeborn, Susannah, 47.
Frisbie, Levi, Rev., 97, 98, 116.
Frothergill, John, xiv.
Gaskin, Samuel, 53.
Gerrish, John, Rev., 163.
Joseph, Rev., 38.
Gibaut, John, Capt, 153.
Gibbs, Henry. 96, 97, 98.
Gilmor, Robert, 182.
Gloucester, 4, 5, 9, 24, 27, 29, 34, 42,
43, 106, 117, 122, 128, 131, 153, 173.
Glover, Joseph, 23.
Goelet, Francis, Capt, 73.
Goffe,  , 89, 90.
Goodhue,  , 85, 90, 92.
Benjamin, 112, 180.
Stephen, 96.
WUUam, 165.
Gray, WUUam, 121.
Greenland (N. H.), 81, 90.
Greenleaf,  , xvi.
Greenough, Chester N., 31.
Gridley, Jeremy, 93.
Hacker, Jeremiah, xv.
Hale.  , Esq., 97.
Hanulton, Alexander, Dr., 64.
HamUton, 100, 124.
Hampton (N. H.), xiii, 24, 25, 30, 46,
58. 69, 72, 81, 97.
Hancock, John. Gov.. 167.
Hart,  , 89.
Harward,  , 80.
Hatch,  , 95.
HaverhiU, xiv. xvi, 25, 26, 30, 46, 51,
53, 80, 81, 105, 108, 143, 170, 183.
Hayler,  . 56.
Herrick.  , 33. 34, 35, 36.
Heussler, George, 131.
Hibbert, Thomas, Rev.. 111.
Higginson, Francis, Rev., 8.
John, Rev., 35, 54.
Nathaniel, 54, 56.
HUl,  , 88.
S., V.
Holmes, Benjamin, xiv.
Holyoke, Eleazer, ftev., 140, 153.
Hooper.  . 94.
Stephen. 104. 105.

INDEX.

187

Hopkins, Daniel, Rev, 98.
Howel,  . 68. 70.
Hoyt, Moses, 112.
Hubbard, TuthUl. 78, 79.
WiUiam, Rev., 41.
Humphrey, John, 19.
Huntington. Asahel, Rev, 153.
Hutchinson, Thomas, Judge, 94.
Indians, xiii, 1, 2. 3. 4. 10, 11. 13, 14,
15. 29. 37. 41. 42, 43, 44. 47. 48. 49.
50.53.61,80,99.
Ipswich, xii, xvi, 6. 17. 20. 21. 22, 23,
27. 29. 30. 34. 37. 38, 39, 40, 41. 46,
47. 61. 68. 70, 71. 72. 78. 84. 89, 90,
93. 95. 97. 98, 100, 115. 125. 134,
142, 169, 178.
Jackson, Jonathan, 94. 104, 116, 176.
Jamaica (SaUsbury), 51.
Jenner, Thomas, Capt, 34.
Jewett,  , Cai>t, 90.
Johnson, Edward, 20, 40.
Johnston, Benjamin, v.
Jones,  , 69.
Josselyn, John, 28, 31.
Keith, George. Rev, 57.
Kent,  , 88. 93.
Kettel.  . 91, 92.
Knham. Daniel, Dr, 104, 117.
KimbaU,  , Rev, 105.
King.  , 92, 97.
Kinsman,  , xvL
Kitteridge, Thomas, Dr, 106, 114, 140,
144.
Kni^t. William, Rev, 19.
Knox, Henry, Gen, 172.
Langdon,  , 97.
Lechford, Thomas, 18.
Ledra, WSliam, xiv.
Lee,  ^.95.
 ^, Miss, 82.
Hannah, 129.
Jeremiah, CoL, 126.
Leslie, Alexander, Lt-CoL, 89. 142.
Levett, Christopher, 7.
Uttle, Moses. Dr, 148.
London (Eng.). 45.
Lovejoy,  , CoL, 136.
Lowell,  . 94, 95.
 , Rev, 72.
Lynde, Benjamin, Judge. 88, 94.

Lynn, xiv, xv. 14, 19. 20, 28, 32, 46, 47,
53. 57, 61. 64, 73, 76, 86, 96, 99, 164.
167, 168, 171, 181, 182.
Lynn End. S9.
McKeen, James, Rev., 117. 123.
McKey, Peggy, 97, 98.
Malcolm, Alexander, Rev., 65, 66. 67,
68,70.
Maiden, S3, 91.
Manchester, 27, 120, 124, 128, 129, 131.
Manning, James, Rev, xv.
John, Dr, xiL
Marblehead, viii, x, xi, 10. 16. 2S.
29. 31. 38, 47. 53. 61. 62, 64, 70. 71.
72, 75, 76, 76, 79, 87, 96. 107, 125,
140, 167, 168, 181.
March.  , CoL. 90.
Marqiiand,  , 148.
Mar^aU, Thomas, Capt, 37.
Martin,  , 87. 88, 90, 92.
Mather, Cotton, Rev., 9L
Maverick, Samuel, 26, 28.
Medford, 99.
Merrimack river, xvi, 2, 13, 17, 22, 24.
25, 26, 30, 38, 61. 81, 101, 114, 137,
166, 169.
Methuen, xvi, 89, 115. 143. 144.
Middleton, 106.
MUler,  , 19.
Moll, Herman, ix, 60.
Montgomery,  , Gen, 77.
Montesquieu,  , de, 82.
Monts,  , de, 2. 4.
Moody. Deborah, Lady, 19.
M,134.
Moriarty. George Andrews. 99.
MorreU, Jocob, 51, 52.
Murray, John, Rev., 103, 116, 120, 132.
MycaU, John, 97, 104, 112, 113, 117,
148.
Mystic, 7^ 96.
Mystic river, 13, 30, 64.
Nahant, 14. 29, 86, loa
Nantasket, 86.
Naumkeag, 6, 9, 10, 12.
Neal.  , 61.
Newbury, xu, xiv, 22, 23. 25, 26, 30,
47, 50, 59, 61. 69, 70. 72. 77, 81, 90,
94, 97, 98, MB, 104, IIL 115. 122.
Iffi.
Newburyport. xi, 71, 81, 84, 97, 98, 101.
103, 112, 132, 134, 142, 14;?. 166.
169, 171. 176.

188

INDEX

Newington (N. H.), 90.
New York (N. Y.), 73.
Nichols, Thomas, 48, 51.
Noble, John, 79.
Oliver, Rev., 105, 112.
Norris, Edward, 78, 79.
Norton,  , 103.
John, Rev., 19.
Lydia, xv, 47.
Norwood,  , 87, 88.
Noyes,  , Capt., 103.
James, Rev., 19, 22.
Joseph, Capt., 148.
Nicholas, Rev, 36.
Ogilby, John, ix.
Oldmixon, John, 60.
Oliver, Andrew, Judge, 94.
Orne, Joseph, Dr., v.
Paisley, Joseph, 46.
Palmer,  , 36.
Esther, 47.
Parker, Isaac, 136.
Robert, 19.
Thomas, Rev., 19, 22.
Parris, Samuel, Rev., 60.
Parrot, John, xiii.
Parsons, Hannah, Miss., 97, 98.
Patteson, George, xiii.
Pearce, David, Col., 129, 131.
Pemaquid, 8.
Pemberton, E., 105.
Penniman,  , Dea., 88.
Perkins, Jacob, 149.
Peter, Hugh, Rev., 19, 91.
Philadelphia (Pa.), 57.
Phillips, Catherine, xiv.
Pickering,  , Dea., 88.
Pickman, Benjamin, CoL, 94.
Piemont, John, 94, 95.
Pike, Nicholas, 103, 104.
Robert Maj., 46, 51, 52.
Piscataqua river, 7.
Plaistead,  , Col., 72.
Plaistow (N. H.), 81.
Plummer, D., 132.
Plymouth, 7, 11, 24.
Porter, Elijah, 107, 109.
Samuel, 89, 90.
Portsmouth (N. H.), 70,81, 97,183,
184.
Poutrincourt, — — , de, 4.
Pratt  . Wid., 74.
Putnam,  , Judge, 94.

Pynchon, William, 90, 95.
Quincy, Josiah, 94.
Rashley, Thomas, Rev., 19.
Razolini, Onorio, 64.
Read,  , 76.
John, 89.
Reading, 135.
Reed, Nathan, 151.
Ried,  , 65.
Ring, Joseph, 46.
Robinson,  , 85.
Samuel, 165.
William, xiv.
Rochefoucalt-Liancourt, Duke de la,
172.
Rogers,  , 134.
Charies, 129.
Daniel, 119, 120, 132, 161.
Ezekiel, Rev., 19, 23.
John, Rev., 68, 70, 71, 94.
Nathaniel, Rev., xvi, 19.
Rolfe, Benjamin, Rev., 53.
Ropes, Nathaniel, Judge, 94, 95.
Rowe, John, 160.
Rowley, 23, 27, 30, 42, 122.
Royall, Isaac, 76.
Rumney, Marsh, 15, 29.
St. Clair, Arthur, Gen., xv.
Salem, x, xi, xii, xiii, xiv, xv, 6, 9, 10,
12, 13, 16, 19, 27, 29, 30,31, 33,34,
36, 38, 45, 46, 47, 53, 54,56, 59, 60,
61, 63, 66, 68, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75.
78, 79, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 90, 92, 94,
95, 96, 99, 108, 120, 150, 164, 167,
178, 182.
Salisbury, 24, 26, 30, 46, 47, 49, 50, 51,
58, 61, 102, 111.
Saltonstall, Nathaniel, 109.
Richard, Col., 88, 90.
Sands, Daniel, xv.
Sandwich, 14.
Sargent, Nathaniel Peaslee, 89, 90.
Saugus, 13, 14, 16, 28, 32.
Scollay,  , Mrs., 94.
SewaU,  , 88, 90.
Samuel, Judge, viii.
Stephen, Judge, 94.
Stephen, Maj., 33, 35, 36, 66, 68, 70.
Shepherd,  , Rev., 57.
Shoals, Isle of, 1, 7, 21, 40.
Simonds, Henry, 19.
Smith, Hezekiah, Rev., xvi, 109.

INDEX.

189

Smith, Isaac, Rev., 122.
John, Capt., 6.
Speed, John, ix.
Spring, Samuel, Rev., 97, 98, 116.
Stanton, Daniel, xv.
Stevens, Bimsley, 114.
Stevenson, Marmaduke, xiv.
Stewart, William, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44.
Story,  , xvi.
Thomas, 46, 53.
Strong,  , Rev., 103.
Swampscott, 19, 162.
Swett, John B., Dr., 104, 112, 133, 148.
Joseph, 63.
SjTnmes, William, Rev., 106.
Talbot,  , 37, 58.
Talleyrand, Count de, 82.
Tewksbury, 135.
Thacher, Oxenbridge, 89, 90.
Thatcher, J. Rev., 91.
Thatcher's Island, 2.
Toppan, Christopher, Rev., xiv.
Topsfield, 107, 109, 113, 115, 138, 140,
152.
Townsend, Nancy, 107.
Tracey, J, 134.
John, 116.
Nathaniel, 104.
Patrick, 104.
Tracy,  , 165.
 , Capt., 94.
John, 81, 82, 83.
Treadwell, Jacob, 90, 93, 95.
Tucker, Benjamin, 5.
John, Dr., 105.
Tufts, Simon, Dr., 87, 90.
Turks' head islands, 6.

Uring, Nathaniel, Capt., xi.
Vanderbank, ¦  , 67.
Vaudreiul, Vicomte de, 81.
Wansey, Henry, xii.
Ward,  , 73, 76.
Edward, 45.
Nathaniel, Rev., 19, 21, 25.
Warner, William, xii.
Warville, Jean Pierre Brissot de, 164.
Washington, George, 167.
Waters, Henry F., 26.
Webster, Noah, viii.
Wendell, Jacob, Capt., 73, 76.
Wenham, xvi, 23, 27, 29, 38, 91, 115,
122, 162.
Wentworth,  , 81.
Wetmore, WiUiam, 95, 97, 98.
White, John, xvi.
White Mountains, 98.
Whitefield, George, Rev, 66, 71, 133.
Whiting,  , Rev., 19.
Wigglesworth, Edward, Col., 82.
Wilkins,  , Mrs., 37.
Willard, Joseph, Rev., 96.
Williams,  , 94.
Roger, 31.
Wilmington, 135.
Winnesimet, 14, 28, 32.
Winthrop,  , Judge, 94.
Woburn, 20, 87.
Wood, WiUiam, 14.
Woodberry,  , 66.
Woodbridge,  , 91.
Worcester. Thomas, Rev., 25.
Worcester, 89.
York (Me.), 91.

YALE UNIVERSITY

5^i*9 95_'4b

I !

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