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DEPOSITED BY THE

LINONIA AND BROTHERS LIBRARY

JAPAN DAY BY DAY
IN TWO VOLUMES
VOLUME II

Japanese I^xterior ..and Interior
Village .Strrct, .\saina Hot Spring, and Room in Inn, Miyanoshita
Walficnl.irx by Biimo Walaiuihr, ISSJ

JAPAN DAY BY DAY
1877, 1878-79, 1882-83

BY
EDWARD S. MORSE
FORMERLY PROFESSOR IN THE IMPErWl UNIVERSITY OF TOKYO
MEMBER OF THE JAPAN SOCIETY OF NEW YORK
MEMBER OF THE JAPAN SOCIETY OF LONDON
AUTHOR OF "JAPANESE HOMES AND
THEIR SURROUNDINGS," ETC.

WITH 777 ILLUSTRATIONS FROM SKETCHES
IN THE author's JOURNAL

VOLUME II

BOSTON AND NEW YORK
HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY
(C{)e Slitier^ibe pce^^ <Eambcib0e
191;

COPYRIGHT, I917, BY EDWARD S. MORSE
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Published October iqij

CONTENTS
XIII. The Ainus  1
XIV. Hakodate and the Return to Tokyo .... 44
XV. A Japanese Winter  77
XVI. To Nagasaki and Kagoshima  129
XVII. Travels in the South  164
XVIII. Lectures and Social Functions  200
XIX. Japan in 1882  208
XX. Overland to Kyoto  239
XXI. The Inland Sea  263
XXII. Pottery-hunting in and about Kyoto . . . .281
XXIII. Customs and Superstitions  305
XXIV. The Caves of Kabutoyama  319
XXV. Tokyo Notes  327
XXVI. Falconry and Other Matters  381
Index  437

JAPAN DAY BY DAY
CHAPTER XIII
THE AINUS
We were told by a servant of the house that just back of the
town a dance, or ceremony, was going on in an Ainu hut. I
had not entered an Ainu hut, though one meets Ainus in the
street, so we all went to the place and were invited into the
hut, which consisted of one large room. There were three
Ainus in the room, all with heavy black beards and tangled
mops of long hair, their faces strongly resembling those of
our race. Not a trace of Mongolian was detected. These
men were sitting cross-legged on the floor around a large dish
of sake. One of them was performing a monotonous dance,
making a curious gesture of the hands as if bowing to the win
dow, to a glint of sunlight on the floor, to everything about the
room, and to the shrine outside, which consisted of a dozen
bear skulls stuck on the ends of long poles. They were all really
intelligent-looking men, with their long, dignified beards, and
it was impossible to realize that they were low, unlettered
savages without moral courage, lazy, and strongly given to
drunkenness, supporting themselves by hunting with bow and
arrow and fishing. One of the Japanese with me asked them
where I came from, and they answered that I was the same as
the Japanese !

2 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
One old fellow, who was very drunk, showed me a quiverful
of their terrible poisoned arrows; another one told him to be
careful, and I felt rather nervous as he walked behind me with
an arrow in his hand, performing in curious gestures and sing
ing a monotonous chant. One man strung his bow to show me
how they shoot the arrow, and when he took the arrow from
his quiver he first very carefully removed the poisoned point.
This point consists of a blade of bamboo, and I noticed a white
powder on it. The poison used is said to be aconite of some
form, and so virulent is it that the Ainu bear is killed by it.
We gave them twenty cents to replenish their vessel of sake,
and when it was brought we had to drink with them. It was
worse than eating worms to drink out of their dirty dishes.
The Ainus, in turn, poured out a large lacquer cup full of sake,
and, resting a long, thin piece of wood resembling a carved
paper-cutter across the cup, sat down and went through a
series of movements, first taking the stick and dipping the end
of it into the liquor and sprinkling a few drops in front of
them. They made a movement such as one would make in
removing a speck or a fly from milk. This they did several
times, offering the drops to different points of the compass;
but I observed how slight were their offerings of the precious
Uquor to the gods. They then stroked their full beards and
made a peculiar upward movement of the hands toward their
beards as a sign of thankfulness. After this long introductory
they raised the cup toward the mouth, and taking the stick
lifted the heavy mustache away from the wine as they drank.
These sticks are known as mustache sticks, and many had
interesting Ainu designs carved upon them.

AN AINU HUT 3
The hut was simply a large, square room literally black with
soot. The fireplace was a square area in the middle of the dirt
floor, over which, hanging from the roof, was a simple device
to suspend a pot or kettle. Most of their household effects
were in round Japanese lacquer boxes. In many things the
evidence of Japanese contact could be seen : in the quavering
voice in singing, in their dance, and in other behavior; or pos
sibly the Japanese may have derived some of these features
from the Ainu centuries ago when the Ainus occupied the
whole country. There were one or two openings in the hut
besides the door, but the place was too dark to make out
details. Figure 365 is the merest apology of a sketch made in
the dark. I hope to get more details of the Ainu huts later.
While we were in the hut an Ainu woman came in. She had
large, coarse features and a wild, untamed look in her eye.

4 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
She was working on some kind of a garment and, between
stitches, scratching for fleas. I have seen three Ainu women
thus far, and they all had an indigo-colored
^& <3b area resembling a mustache painted about
their mouths (fig. 366). It is a curious cus
tom, and though bad enough looking, it was
not half so hideous as the blackened teeth
Fig 366 °^ ^^^ Japanese married women.
On the 29th of July we left Otaru for Sap
poro. The specimens we had collected at Otaru were packed
in large sake kegs. These objects consisted of a hundred
shells of the big scallop, a big oil can of alcohol in which
was the material we had dredged, a pile of ancient pottery
from the shell heap, etc. Our horses were brought to the
inn, two of them having foreign saddles for Professor Yatabe
and me, the others with pack-saddles which required a lot
of blanket padding. Our pack consisted of two large willow
baskets. The driver of the train rode another horse, while
Mr. Sasaki and the servant preferred to walk, thirty mfles
being nothing to a Japanese. As there are no wheeled ve
hicles, or jinrikishas, we had before us, after leaving Sapporo
to ride across Yezo on horseback, one hundred and fifty
miles, or walk. I must admit to a feeling of apprehension
about this long ride on horseback over a ragged roadway
with different horses each day, — wild devils some of them
too, — though we were told that from Sapporo to the east
coast of Yezo the roads were fairly good. It was a curious
fact that I had never been on the back of a horse before. The
recollections of friends with broken arms, broken heads, and

A FIRST HORSEBACK RIDE 5
accounts of others dragged to death with foot entangled in
stirrup came up to haunt me with their terrors. However, I
was in for it, and there was no time to walk, and if I broke my
head I would not im
piously accuse Provi
dence, but look upon
it as a result of my
neglected education.
Not caring to exhibit
myself before the na
tives, I had my horse
led beyond the bound
ary of the town while
I walked. This was
so enjoyable that I
walked four or five miles before mounting the nag. The road
for ten miles led along the coast. In two places the bluffs
had been tunneled through, and in figure 367 is a view of
Otaru through one of

^^i — =====».^ these tunnels. A fresh
breeze blew in from the
sea and the waves beat
out their "everlasting
anthem." Fishermen
off shore were busy get
ting seaweed, a large Laminaria which is dried and exported
to China in bales. The fishermen use a kind of fork on a
pole ten feet long with a cross-bar at the end of the pole.
The pole is thrust down into the forest of seaweed and then

Fig. 367

Fig. 368

6 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
turned a number of times, twisting the seaweed in such a
manner that it can be pulled from its moorings (fig. 368).
In the distance we saw our steamer on its way back to Hako
date. Such beautiful precipices we passed, over one of which
a broad cascade fell. Such chances for an artist I have not seen
elsewhere in the country ; there were so many exquisite bits for

Fig. 369
the pencil and the brush. In figure 369 is one of these views,
a place called Kamakotan with a long, curved beach in front
and great basaltic cliffs, eight hundred feet in height. In some
places these cliffs showed the most contorted structure, the
basalt perfect in its crystallization. The lava had poured
down in great masses which had cooled and crystallized in
successive fiery floods. It was too complex a structure to
sketch. After a few miles I got upon my horse for the first time. I
mounted with an air as if I had always ridden a horse, and what
a manly, commanding sort of feeling it gave me. It is true the

A FIRST HORSEBACK RIDE 7
horse was slow and persisted in walking unless urged into a
violent trot, but nevertheless I felt like a commander, and it
seemed as if I were at the head of an expedition for the survey
of the world. It was some little time before I got accustomed
to the motion, but after a while matters became easier, and
from contemplating the horse with considerable anxiety, I
could contemplate the landscape with some serenity. The
sides of the road everywhere were strewn with large fronds of
seaweed, drying. For ten miles it was a rugged path and very
steep in some places. Along the sides of alarming cliffs "a
false step," as the books say, might have precipitated me a
hundred feet, but the horse knew better than to do such a
thing, though my uncertain seat in the saddle made me some
what nervous. After a while, getting on a level road, I had the
hardihood to give the horse a gentle hint. Instantly I re
gretted it, for such a painful jolting I got; each individual step
by each individual leg bumped me up and down with a dozen
rebounds and I instantly pulled the horse up again. Before I
reached Sapporo I had acquired the art of synchronizing my
movements with the rigid bounce of the horse, and though
very lame and sore I managed to trot mildly after a fashion.
Our first resting-place was a collection of sleepy houses
forming the village of Genibaku (fig. 370). At the inn where
we stopped were signs of former activity and importance.
Long suites of unoccupied rooms recalled the daimyo proces
sions that used to pass across the island. Now the house was
in a moribund state, the rice was poor, and I had hard work
to supply my "chemical laboratory" with anything palat
able. After leaving the place the road became wider and led

8

JAPAN DAY BY DAY

Fig. 370

away from the coast. The heat now became oppressive, and
a huge horsefly, much larger than those in our country,
swarmed by hundreds. I dreaded them, for I was told that
their sting was fearful. The horse repeatedly stumbled, nearly
throwing me over his head, he was so occupied in switching
and kicking them off. At times he would strike my legs a hard
rap with his nose as he swung his head back, and I found it a
difficult matter to sit straight and keep the horse straight too.
When we got within two miles of Sapporo we passed large
military barracks, the houses built in foreign style. It was an
odd sight to see these long rows of one-story houses with win
dows and chimneys. The soldiers live here the year through
and have their families with them. After passing this station
we were met by a very polite Japanese officer, who spoke Eng
lish very weU, and who, receiving word from Otaru that we
were on the way, had come to escort us to town — Professor
Yatabe to the best inn and me to the house of Professor
Brooks, one of the officers in the Agricultural College, who was
to take care of me. As we approached the town I noticed a

SAPPORO 9
large building surmounted by a dome similar to our Capitol
buildings at home; it looked like home in fact, and on inquiry
I found it was really the capitol building of Yezo.
The streets of Sapporo are wide and cross one another at
right angles. The whole town suggests a new but thriving vil
lage in our Western States. There are a number of houses
occupied by Government officials built in our style, but the
other houses were purely Japanese in character. Professor
Brooks gave me a cordial welcome, and after brushing up he
conducted me to the college and farm. The college had the
appearance of our usual country college: common buildings
without the slightest taste shown in their design or construc
tion. In one room was an interesting collection of vessels and
fragments from the shell heaps of Otaru. How I wanted them !
In certain features of decoration they reminded one of the

Fig. 371

10 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
Omori pottery, but in form they were entirely unlike (Fig.
371). After examining these and other objects on the shelves,
principally minerals, I was conducted to the farm, where I
saw a huge barn modeled after one at the Amherst Agricul
tural College in Massachusetts. Last year I had chanced to
see a report of the college with a picture of this model barn.
It seemed too absurd to erect such a structure for the Japa
nese, as their requirements were so different from ours. But
after riding through the country and learning more about the
climate, I reaUzed that farming in our sense might be done
and in our way too, and therefore not only implements such
as we use, but barns of our kind, were necessary. In the barn
were tons of hay. We climbed to the cupola and had a fine
view of the surrounding country, and in coming down had a
big jump from a beam to the hay below. All this, with the
odor of cows, made me homesick. At Professor Brooks's I had
a quart of fresh milk. It was difficult to realize that I was in
the heart of Yezo and that only eight years ago this place was
a howling wilderness frequented by savage bears. That they
still exist in the region is attested by the account of Professor
Brooks that last year a bear was killed which had eaten four
men one after the other, in one case breaking into a house to
get the victim. It is to the highest credit of the Japanese that
they not only conceived the idea of the Agricultural College,
but sent to a Massachusetts Agricultural College for a man to
establish the farming part of it. It is a rapidly growing town.
A lager-beer brewery is making the finest lager beer, bottled
for immediate use, as I was informed when a dozen bottles
were presented to me.

THE MOUNTAII^S NEAR SAPPORO 11
The mountains seen from Sapporo are rugged-looking,
though not high. Figure 372 represents the mountains looking

Fig. 372
northwest. The highest of these peaks is about three thousand
feet; a volcanic mountain, still smoking, is also seen from
Sapporo (fig. 373). Professor Brooks called my attention to
some low mounds near the school, the largest one being twenty

Fig. 373

feet in diameter and two and a half feet high. We dug out two
of them, reaching the original level of the ground, but found no
pottery and but a few fragments of bones. Figure 374 shows
their general appearance.

Fig. 374

The next morning, though stiff and lame from the ride, I
walked, in the broiling sun, to some woods a few miles away,
hoping to find some land shells under the dead leaves. The
forest of beech and hard-wood was an ideal place for snails.

12 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
and I found a number of species that seemed identical with
certain species I had found in New England. In hunting for
these creatures one has to get down on his hands and knees
and crawl about overturning layers of damp leaves and bits of
bark. I had been searching for these little objects for some
time when I heard a number of shouts, as if of warning. Look
ing up I saw, at a distance of fifty or seventy-five yards, a
number of hairy Ainus, in a row, shouting at me and gesticu-..,
lating. I waved my hand in recognition of their call and
shouted back to them a Japanese word, "Yoroshii" (AU
right), as they all understand a little Japanese, whereupon
they became more violent in their gestures and one pulled his
bow and arrow in a series of jerks in what seemed to be a
threatening manner. Then it suddenly occurred to me that
they thought I was hunting for their graves, which they defend
even to the extent of murder, and recalling the deadly poison
of the arrow tips I reluctantly got up and walked away. With
Professor Yatabe I visited the settlement from which these
men had come, to inquire into the meaning of their hostile
demonstrations and to explain to them that I was only hunt
ing under the leaves for little snails, when they explained that
one of their men had been killed and eaten by a bear a few
days before, and that they had set a bear trap with a huge
poison arrow, and they were warning me that I might get shot
if I did not get out. This the Ainu had tried to express to me
by pulling his own bow. They were afraid of coming nearer,
not knowing quite where the string was which would spring
the bow; and I on my hands and knees crawling about like
a bear with the hidden trap ready to shoot me !

PAINS AND PLEASURES 13
The next morning our pack-horses and saddle-horses were at
the door. On one were loaded two cases of lager beer; on an
other two large, square, wiUow baskets filled with specimens.
The Governor had kindly loaned us two foreign saddles until
we should get to Hakodate. The horse provided for me was a
huge fellow, and when I mounted and started off the lameness
from the ride the day before only made his triphammer bounc
ing and rigidity more noticeable, and I felt completely and
literally broken up. I stuck to him for some time, however,
and then gave up in despair and, dismounting, walked for
miles before I had the courage to remount. • In crossing a large
truss bridge I noticed a ponderous staging erected the entire
length. Wondering what it was for, I learned that the bridge
was to be painted. In some things the Japanese are remark
ably dull, for at home a man with a ladder would have accom
plished the whole thing in the time they were buUding the
staging. After all, there is luxury in riding along and overlooking the
low bushes beside the road with the woods and marshes be
yond. We traveled fifteen miles before we changed horses.
I got a beast then that kicked and reared whenever I struck
her with a stick, though by considerable urging I got her into a
gallop, and then she tore along at a great rate. In my igno
rance, it was the first time I had dared to venture on a gallop,
and, to my surprise, I found it much easier than any other
way. I was out of my saddle twenty times during the next
ten miles to get some snails to study, for the habits of the
larger snails here are quite different from those of ours at
home. Here they seem to live on the leaves of bushes, and

14 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
you pick them off as you would ripe fruit. On this ride we got
two specimens of fresh-water mussel, apparently like the pearl
mussel, Margaritana, and the common New England Unio
complanatus. We reached Chitose, our resting-place for the night, and
found there our German friend the doctor, who came on the
steamer with us from Yokohama and who was now on his way
across the island. I opened one of our boxes of beer and gave

Fig. 375

him six bottles, and you may imagine his delight. He could
not thank us enough. Figure 375 shows the inn at Chitose,
an old-fashioned one that used to be at the disposal of the
daimyo and his retainers on their way from the west coast to
the capital. Now its rooms are unoccupied save by an occa
sional visitor. A row of water tubs on the ridge of the roof
gives the appearance of chimneys, which the Japanese house
never has. The next morning we were up early, this time
for a thirty-mile ride with one change of horses. My attention
was so completely occupied with minding my horse and get
ting him into a gallop that I recall hardly anything from sta
tion to station, except that toward noon the road became more
level and sandy and we realized we were approaching the east

AN OLD INN 15
coast. At noon we came in sight of the sea at a place called
Tomokomai. Here we made a long stop waiting for Sasaki and
a servant who had elected to walk. I envied them and should
have preferred walking the entire distance, but it was such a
fine opportunity to learn to ride that I could not resist it.

Fig. 376
Figure 376 is an old inn in Tomokomai, its roof grass-grown
as are most of the houses we see. It is odd to see yarrow
and other wild weeds and plants growing on the roof in luxu
rious profusion. On the beach I got a sketch of a few Ainu huts
and an outlook (fig. 377). Here were a few Ainu fishermen

Fig. 377

16 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
making nets and curing fish. All along the road the Ainus we
met were in the service of the Japanese, taking care of their
horses in particular. When the Ainus ride they sit cross-legged
and perched up high on the saddle, and whenever I saw them
they were going

Fig. 378
On the beach was a Japanese fishing boat, twenty-five feet
long, made after the model of a junk, its unpainted wood
immaculate in cleanliness with a few ornamental designs in

Fig. 379

black at the bow and stern. A large interspace in the stern for
the rudder is a curious feature about the model; it is peculiar
to all their junks. As before mentioned, there are no rowlocks;

A FISHING-BOAT 17
simply short loops of rope hang down at the sides through
which the oar is passed. Hanging just inside the bow is a
tassel of shavings having some fancied effect in warding off
danger or in insuring good luck; evidently derived from the
god-stick of shavings of the Ainu from which the Shinto
gohei is supposed to be derived. The boat was finished Uke a
bit of cabinet-work, perfectly fitting joints, and so clean and
attractive that I had to make a careful drawing of it. Figure
378 is a view of the boat from the stern; figure 379 is the stern
from the side; and figure 380 represents the bow. The boat is
loaded with a large fishing net and is waiting
for the tide to float her.

AU along the shore at intervals, or rather at every little
settlement, is a rude sort of lookout erected on tall poles and
used by the fishermen to see schools of fish at a distance or to
burn lights at night. Figure 381 shows one of these lookouts
at Tomokomai. The rough shelter on top seems to be made of
odd pieces of wood, either fragments of wrecks or other stuff

18

JAPAN DAY BY DAY

Fig. 381

thrown up on the beach. Another characteristic structure
on the shore is a huge
windlass to drag boats
up from the water (fig.
382). The dogs of the coun
try are of two types.
One resembles the Es
kimo dog in form and
color, while the other
type is almost precisely
like a fox in color, form,
motion, and bushy tail.
If it is possible to get a cross between a dog and a fox there
is certainly fox blood in these creatures. Every village has
a pack of dogs, and
at night they are very
noisy, making sounds
like cats, but more in
fernal; they howl and
squeal, but never bark.
Darwin has observed
in his work on domes
ticated animals that
when dogs relapse from their cultivated state to a semi-
savage one, they lose the bark and take on the howl again.
Wild creatures to which they are related never bark, but
howl. From Tomokomai a curious mountain is seen known as

Fig. 382

THE AINUS 19
Tarumae. Figure 383 is a rough sketch of it, but it gives one an
idea of the curiously formed mountains in Yezo. There were
several Ainu houses
in the place, but we
had little time to ex
amine them, and be
ing told that our stop- pj^ 333
ping-place for the next
night was an Ainu village we pushed on to Shiraoi. The
road now led along the sand beach, the road itself white and
sandy, the broad Pacific on one side, with the constant roar of
its breaking waves, and on the other side mountains of bizarre
forms, probably all volcanic in origin. Despite blue glasses,
the glare of the sun from the white sand became painful and
after a few miles the ride became monotonous. We passed
several small clusters of Ainu houses, and at one place over
took an Ainu with his Uttle girl and boy and two dogs. The
children were entirely naked, and the little girl carried by a
head band a bundle resting on her back while the man led her
by the hand. It seems strange to see the women and girls
doing all the work while the man takes it easy. The women
are all rather coarse in looks, but kind and good-natured and
with manners of extreme diflidence. In nearly every instance
when I saw them they persistently held their hands to their
mouths as children do when bashful. In every case their
mouths were bordered with an area of black, as before men
tioned, and in some cases their arms were painted with a series
of rings like bracelets. I learned definitely that the material
they use for this coloring is simply soot from the kettle. The

20 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
children resemble very closely European children, having
large eyes and pleasant faces, but are ex
ceedingly timid and bashful. As the women
habitually hold the hand to the mouth in
the presence of strangers, one gets the idea
that they are hiding the paint about the
mouth, but such delicacy is hardly credi
ble, particularly as the children have this
gesture. Figure 384 represents a woman
carrying a load with the head
band; figure 385 represents two
Fig. 384 -^°" women ; fig
ure 386 is a child,
showing the red cloth earrings and
the pecuhar bang

Fig. 385

of the hair; and
figure 387, three
children sitting.
They were in a
dark hut and re
mained fixed like statues while we were
present. A mop of coarse black hair is
combed down straight about the head,
cut short about the neck, hanging long
over the ears, with a large bang in front.
I had some difficulty in making sketches
of the Ainus, as among some of them there
is a superstitious dread of having their
pictures made. So, while sketching them, I pretended to be

Fig. 386

AINU HUTS 21
interested in something else, now and then getting in a glance
when their attention was directed elsewhere.
Their huts are very dark and also very dirty. When we
entered they would light a roll of
birchbark to enable us to see about,
but even with this illumination the
hut was too dark to make out de
tails. Figure 388 is an attempt to
show the general arrangement of
objects within. There was no end
to them, — bundles, rolls of dry
fish, and a number of fish fins of
large size hung up to dry, and bows and quivers. Over the
fire were parts of fish hanging to be smoked. The sleeping-
place was simply a slightly raised platform on one side of the
room, and on this platform was a round lacquer box with

Fig. 387

Fig. 388

22 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
cover, standing on four short legs. These boxes are made by
the Japanese evidently for the Ainu trade, as in every Ainu
house I saw a few.^ In these boxes the Ainu keeps his treas
ures. On the wall are very old Japanese short knives or dag
gers, quivers full of poison arrows, and other implements of
hunting. The entire contents of the hut are brown with smoke
and the roof and rafters are black. The floor is mother earth,
but on this they do spread a straw mat to sit upon. Whenever
we entered their huts they would take down from the rafters
above a rolled mat in
which had been worked
some simple design in
brown and yellow straw
and place it on the
ground for us to sit
on. Most of the Ainu
sketches I made at Shi
raoi, where there is quite an Ainu village (fig. 389). The Ainu
houses are symmetrically made and the ribbed-straw roof is
very neat and even attractive. I went through a number of
Ainu vUlages and could find no evidence of alignment, or even
street area. Narrow, irregular paths led through the grass
from one house to another, but there were no cleared areas and
no ground trodden down as if children played there. Most of
the houses were surrounded by a high fence composed of bun
dles of sedge, or reeds such as their houses are made of. We
' In the Peabody Museum there are three of these boxes, and I have had distin
guished Japanese, old and young, give their opinion as to the uses of the object, and
all vary, though the majority believe it to be a box to hold the shells used in a liter
ary game.

Fig. 389

AINU HUTS

23

Fig. 390
were told that their houses last only six or eight years. The
vUlages consist of thirty or forty houses; at least we saw many
of that number. Many of the houses had a sort of ell, or porch,
and this gave a better appearance. The roof is often thatched
in such a way as to form a series of horizontal ridges, with a
steep ridge running up vertically nearly two feet, and sur
mounted by a round stick. This was apparently held in its
place by a straw rope which bound it to a transverse beam
running through the base of the ridge. It is entirely unUke any
roof I have seen in Japan. Figure 390 is an Ainu house with
the peculiar ridged roof; figure 391 shows another Ainu house

Fig. 391

Fig. 392

24 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
with porch; and figure 392 is a larger view of the porch. The
rake on top is not an agricultural implement, but a rude de
vice to rake seaweed. One square opening admits the only
light except what comes
from the doorway. In one
house I saw two windows
with rough board shutters
hanging down outside.
The neatness and general
picturesqueness of the house
disappear when you enter:
hard, damp ground beneath,
blackened rafters above, and a strong fish smeU pervading
everything. Near the square fireplace stands a big bowl con
taining the remains of the meal, in every case consisting of
fish bones, large, sickly looking ones. I saw nothing else to
eat in their huts except
smoked fins and other
parts of a fish, hanging
up), and some hard, dry
cakes resembling the
wheels of a child's cart.
From one pole in the
house were suspend
ed (fig. 393) a satchel
made of straw matting,
the round hard cakes, and strips of fish. The utensils were
large lacquer cups, the kettle over the fire and a few other
objects, all of Japanese manufacture, and food bowls of wood

Fig. 393

AINU HUTS 25
made by the Ainus. Figure 394 shows the fireplace with a
sunple device to hold the kettle at different distances and the
lamp consisting of a sheU fiUed
with fish oil and resting on a
split stick. Figure 395 repre
sents the gUl covers and fins
of a horse mackerel; figure
396 shows another way of cut
ting fish with skewers put in
to keep the cuts apart; it is
also cut in long strips. Fig
ure 397 shows two fish heads
and other articles and an air
bladder of a Tish. These last
were hanging directly over the
fire. All these are suspended „ 004
from poles that hang up in the
house and the smoke of the fire is suflTicient to cure them.
But think of living and sleeping in a house always charged

Fig. 395

Fig. 396

with smoke, so thick at times that one has to run out now
and then to get a breath of fresh air!

26 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
A number of sticks with curled shavings pendent, known as
"god-sticks," were in one corner of the hut. I endeavored to
buy one, but an offer of
a miUion dollars would
be no more effective
than the offer of ten
cents, as the Ainu has
no idea of the value of
money, or, indeed, any
knowledge of the sim
plest arithmetic. Hang
ing on the bedside of the hut were Japanese daggers in sil
ver scabbards, quite old, mounted on flattened, oval-shaped
tablets of wood, the wood at the handle end ornamented by
flat disks of lead of various sizes hammered into the wood

Fig. 397

Fig. 398

(fig. 398). Whether these daggers were made for the Ainu
trade as we make objects for the Indians of the Northwest,
I could not learn. The Japanese with me said they were

AINU WEAPONS 27
very old and the Ainus seem to hold them in great veneration.
At Otaru an old Ainu had one that he kept in a bag. He
showed it to me and seemed to regard it as a most precious
object. The handle was loose, but that did not seem to impair
its value. On the waUs, at right angles to the wall upon which
the knives were hung, were three Ainu quivers with the covers
hanging down; from the shape of these quivers the forms of

Fig. 399
the wooden tablets supporting the daggers had been derived.
Figure 399 is a sketch of them. I endeavored to buy one of
the quivers, but an offer increasing from one dollar to five
hundred had not the slightest effect. To my astonishment,
however, the Ainu took down one of the quivers, removed one
of the arrows, and, after carefully scratching off the poison,
gave it to me.
The storehouses in which they keep their dried and smoked
fish and skins are built on posts four or five feet in height. In
some instances a flaring wooden box was placed inverted on
the top of the post in the same manner in which our comcribs

28 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
in New England are protected from rodents by tin pans on
the posts. The types of
these storehouses are
seen in figures 400
and 401. Large wooden
mortars, in which they
pound rice, are seen in
or about the house.
The one shown in fig
ure 402 is about three
feet in height, shaped
and hollowed out from the trunk of a tree. The Ainu boat
dug out from a tree-trunk
was different in form from
the other "dug-outs" I
had seen in Japan. The
one represented in figure
403 was fourteen feet
long, bow and stern alike, "i:^
with the waUs thin and
very neatly made, as is
much of their woodwork.

Fig. 400

Fig. 401

Fig. 402

At Shiraoi, where I made many Ainu
sketches, we found many beautiful white
snaUs cUnging to the bushes. With the ex
ception of one species the sheUs were light
and delicate. The fresh-water shells are
equally thin and some of the land sheUs
are ahnost colorless. The absence of lime

AINU SALUTATIONS

29

^

V

I 't JwT t*»v^

) \=::=j

Fig. 403

in the soil is supposed to be the reason for the thinness of
the shells. We could hardly tear ourselves away from the
Ainu village the morning we left Shiraoi. It was most in
teresting roaming through narrow paths, some of them al
most hidden by the grass and bushes, and finding, here and
there, disposed in the most irregular
fashion, the Ainu huts. Old men sit
ting at the doorway would greet us
with the peculiar gesture of raising
both hands toward the face and then
bringing them slowly down over the
beard as if stroking it; as children
make the same gesture, it has nothing
to do with the beard. The woman's
salutation consists simply in slowly
rubbing the side of her nose with the
forefinger. If I could only draw a horse I could
make an interesting sketch of our cara
van. Figure 404 is a sketch of Profes
sor Yatabe's assistant, which I made while riding behind him.

Fig. 404

30 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
He was loaded down with botanical boxes and bundles, and
shortly after making the sketch his horse suddenly .kicked up
in the air and off the assistant went, heels over head, to the
ground, the heavy pack-saddle, tin boxes, and bundles making
a clatter. The man picked himself up, shook himself together,
and with the assistance of our Ainu leader got on his horse
again. Some of the horses we have had are vicious brutes.
The last one I had yesterday made me so laine that when we
started off to-day I walked a distance of seventeen and one
half mfles before mounting. The road lay along the beach the
entire distance.
Our caravan was led by an Ainu, a large, black-whiskered,
hairy fellow with a mop of hair on his head a foot in diameter
(fig. 405). A cloth was tied around his head to
keep his hair in place and a peculiar Ainu
design was wrought in the back of his gar
ment. He sat cross-legged on his saddle and
looked like a giant. This man accompanied
the train to bring back the horses. To his
horse was tied another horse carrying the two
willow baskets containing specimens, clothes.
Fig 405 ^^^'' ^^^ ^^ ^^^^ horse was tied still another,
lugging our cases of lager beer, given to us
at Sapporo, which were rapidly diminishing as we went on.
With Yatabe and his assistant, Takamine, Sasaki, and me,
this made a cavalcade of eight horses.
We went rattling along the road, and a rattle it was, for
with the wooden roUers on the cruppers and the other things
dangling, we made a good deal of noise and dust as we trotted

RUNAWAY HORSES 31
or galloped along the white, sandy road. The beach seemed
interminable. Suddenly, for no apparent reason, three of
our horses ran away, and I was on one of them. It was in
vain that we tried to pull them in. Sasaki was ahead,
Takamine next, I last, and the rest of the cavalcade was
soon left far behind and out of sight. Everything portable
was shed: first hats; then strings and straps broke and tin
botanical boxes, bags, and packages came off, one after the
other, and the road was strewn for a long distance with these
objects, which we trusted our men behind would pick up.
As an indication of the progress I was making in horse
manship I managed to hold on to everything: my pith sun
hat, my colored eyeglasses, and a cigar-holder with lighted
cigar were undisturbed. Just before the runaway, Takamine
had folded his red flannel blanket under him to ease the asper
ities of the pack-saddle. He was directly ahead of me, and as
he bounced up and down, his black hair flying in the wind, his
blanket became unfolded and, little by Uttle, sagged on one
side and finally came off in the road. Had I been an experi
enced horseman, I should have anticipated the shy that was
sure to come. I did not, however, and was laughing at the way
Takamine was bumping up and down on his naked saddle
when my horse shied with such violence that I was nearly
thrown into the road. With every jump of the horse, however,
I little by little regained my seat. The wild dash for some
miles ended as abruptly as it had begun: for, overtaking a
large pack of horses that filled the road, our horses immedi
ately came to a walk and joined them. They had been ac
customed to travel with these horses and recognized the odor.

32 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
The Ainu pack-horse is an uncertain brute. He walks more
slowly, I am told, than any other horse in the world, but I can-

FiG. 406
not imagine any horse trotting more painfully or galloping
more energetically than this Yezo breed. My experience in
learning to ride would have been more agreeable if I could
have learned on civilized horses. Figure 406 shows the typical
Yezo pack-horse with the pack-saddle.
As we approached Mororan the evidences of upheaval could
be plainly seen. The bluffs near the water were undercut to a
height of several feet, as shown in figure 407. The soil seemed

Fig. 407

WAYSIDE SHRINES 33
to be composed of pumice which indicated former volcanic
activity. In our long ride from Shiraoi, not a house was
seen, and the only signs
of man were observed
in an occasional rude
shrine, very dflapidated,
though a few bunches of
flowers in front showed
that it was cared for in
a way. The figure un
der a rough framework
consisted simply of two
stones, a smaller one
representing the head,
resting on a larger one. The head was covered with a cloth
cap with long strings hanging down on each side (fig. 408).
Before reaching Mororan the scenery became delightful.
The low mountains and inlets of the sea and the Bay of
Mororan, with its long, yellow beach, would have made a
fine subject for a picture. Figure 409 gives a rough idea of
the region. Near Mororan was a curiously shaped Japanese
house, the roof unusually high, with the flat ridge covered
with Ulies, iris, and other flowers. The roof was thinly

Fig. 408

Fig. 409

34 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
thatched, and the little shed-like roofs near the eaves were
covered with round stones.^ In our ride we overtook an
other pack of twenty horses, filUng the road. Before we
could get by them they turned into a narrow path. We were
informed that that path was much shorter to Mororan than
the regular road, so we turned in and followed the pack,
Yatabe and I only, as we were far in advance of the rest.
The path led to the top of a mountainous ridge, at places
rocky and wet and at times very steep. I wondered what
would happen if the horse sUpped, for the path led along the
side of an abrupt precipice and the path itself was sloping.
After riding this way for half an hour we came to the high
est portion of the ridge through a dense growth of oak and
other trees. It was evening, and the delicious fragrance of
the forest, the curious insects that I could actually clutch
from the overhanging leaves, and the pack of odd-looking
horses and odd-looking drivers as they rattled along in
single file gave me a delightful hour, and I enjoyed every
minute of it. There was only one place where I was in dan
ger. Yatabe and I had got mixed with the pack in some
way, and in one place where there was a sloping waU on one
side and a steep precipice on the other, one of the horses
endeavored to regain his place in the file by attempting to pass
me on the inside. The driver was doing his utmost to hold him
in, and I, realizing the danger, as he had two enormous packs
on his saddle, hit him a sharp rap across his nose which
checked him. It was impossible for me to hurry ahead, for the
narrow path was only wide enough to ride in single file, and
' See Japanese Homes, fig. 41.

AN INN KITCHEN 35
had the horse succeeded in his efforts my horse would have
been crowded over the precipice. It was quite dark when we
entered Mororan, a single long street bordering a beautiful
cove, and hills and low mountains in every direction. We had
made over thirty miles, of which I had walked seventeen and
one half miles, had been run away with, and had had other
experiences, with the result that sheer fatigue sent me to bed
early. The next morning we found it raining hard and no steamer
going across the bay to Mori, where we had to take horses
again for Hakodate. It gave
me an opportunity to make a
few sketches about the house.
In the middle of the floor, both
in the front and back part of
the house, is a large, square en
closure filled with sand. These
are the fireplaces and here
everything is cooked. Figure
410 shows the kitchen of the
inn. Overhead is a rack, hang
ing from which fish is smoked.
Such a collection of teapots
huddled around the hot coals
would not be seen in a pri
vate house. Figure 411 repre
sents a fireplace in the best room. The device suspending
the tea-kettle was of brass and highly polished. A copper
box is filled with hot water, and in this is placed a bottle of

Fig. 410

36 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
sake to heat, as their rice beer is always drunk hot. The
tongs are in the form of chop
sticks united above by a ring,
for if one gets lost the other
would be useless. Most of the
servants at the inn were men,
and all of them wore their hair
in old-fashioned style; indeed,
it was a rare sight to see a Jap
anese without the queue. In
Tokyo, on the contrary, the
queue, though commonly seen
in the farmer class and among
the sailors, fishermen, artisans,
and old men, is rapidly dis
appearing among the younger
generation, and the students

Fig. 411

have entirely given it up.
Figure 412 represents the
clerk busy all day long mak
ing up the voluminous bills
for the guests. The length of
the bill startles you, and yet,
when the items are translated,
you are greatly relieved to
hear one and a half cents for
this, one and three tenths of
a cent for that; and finally
the whole bill for supper.

Fig. 412

Fig. 413

ATTITUDES OF SERVANTS 37
"lodging, and breakfast, added up, amounts to less than twenty
cents, which you pay without a murmur.
Figure 413 shows the attitude of a servant as he comes into
your room to receive your order. It has taken a long time
to get used to this, and even
now I feel a repugnance to
having any one humble him
self before me in this fashion.
The proper way in kneeling
is to turn the hands inward,
and as you see it often, you
notice the failure to do it, as
much as if one should use
the left hand in shaking hands. Mr. Takamine, who was
page to a dahnyo, iUustrated the proper way of bringing in a
tray holding food. It is held with two hands on a level with
the eyes, and on approaching the prince one should kneel and
present the tray and then, still on the knees, move backward,
and rising, back out of the room.
One of the sketches I made while rainbound in the house
was of a family at dinner (fig. 414). It is an interesting sight,
though you may have seen it
a hundred times in walking
through the streets. The whole
affair is so unlike our sitting in
chairs at the table, each with
plate, knife, and fork in front.
Here they sit on the floor, the wooden bucket at one side hold
ing the rice which is scooped out with a wooden spatula.

Fig. 414

38 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
In this little village of Mororan there is a well-furnished fire-
engine house. Figure 415 is a rough sketch of its appearance.
It is entirely open on the street and all the utensils immedi-

Fig. 415
ately accessible. A list of the objects was as follows: twenty-
seven canvas buckets; twenty small wooden buckets; six large
buckets; two ladders; six poles; rope, chain, and hook; two
lanterns on long poles.
The fire companies always carry the lanterns on long bam
boo poles. Figure 416 shows the lantern and the hook, which
last is attached to a long chain for tear
ing down buildings. The people are
very careful about fire, as the buildings
are of wood with most inflammable
roofs of thin shingles or thatch. Lately,
in the larger cities, municipal laws pro
hibit the use of these inflammable ma
terials for roof coverings. In Mororan
a boy goes through the long street at stated hours every night
having tied on behind him three hardwood boards of varying

Fig. 416

A PRECAUTIONARY FIRE-ALARM 39
sizes which clap together with a loud noise at every step he
takes. There is a rattle, rattle, rattle as he goes by (fig. 417).
This is to warn the inhabitants to look
after their fires and see that .they are
extinguished; it indicates also that the
boy is attending to his duties.
Sunday morning we were up at half-
past two to eat our breakfast and to
pack, as the boat was expected to start
at four o'clock. It did not leave the
wharf tiU six, but we got aboard before
the sun arose, and such a beautiful sight
as the bay presented, the shore fringed
with mountains! Our road led along a high bluff and we
looked down into the deep gloom of a valley where the
bright red fire of a forge shone out. The sun was just be
hind the clouds, the water calm, and a picturesque crowd
of Japanese was going along the road with us. It was en
joyable being the only foreigner about, nor had I seen one

Fig. 417

Fig. 418

40 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
during my long trip, except at Sapporo, and the German doc
tor we had met. Figure 418 is a hasty sketch of Mororan
from the boat. The little steamer we were on was crowded
with Japanese. Their pleasant courtesies, which were interest
ing to watch, we knew would soon wither as we rounded the
headland into Volcano Bay, and within an hour they were
all dreadfully seasick,
as the boat rocked vio
lently. Figure 419 is an
outline of the headlands
as we came out of Mo
roran harbor. In this
sketch you will notice
how the rocks have been
undercut at the water-
line, an indication of
upheaval. The whole
country is volcanic and
unstable. I made a few
sketches from the steamer, but found that my condition was
approaching that of the other passengers and so sought the
cabin for a little rest. When we got near Mori, our landing-
place, a boiler flue burst, nearly extinguishing the fire, and
we lay at the mercy of the winds and waves for some time.
Had a storm come up we should have been helpless. The
wind was blowing hard; it was raining, and it was an aggra
vation to be so near land and not be able to get ashore.
Finally, we got under way and at noon landed at Mori.
Figure 420 is an outline of Usuyama from Mororan harbor.

Fig. 419

OVER THE MOUNTAINS 41
and figure 421 shows the volcano Komagatake, its peak
hidden by steam that continually arises. This mountain is
easily seen from Hakodate. Its height is nearly four thousand

Fig. 420
feet and twenty-two years ago it was in violent eruption.
After lunch we engaged our pack-horses, Yatabe and his man
remaining to climb the volcano, and Sasaki, Takamine, and I
going on. The ride over mountain spurs and through a wild
region was exceedingly picturesque. The mountain peaks
were obscured by mists and at times it threatened rain. We

Fig. 421

passed a beautiful lake, but could not stop, as it was after
two and we had thirty miles to make to reach Hakodate again.
The road was being repaired the whole length and we had to
be on the lookout all the time. After a ride of several mUes
from Mori we entered a mountain pass. Here the scenery was
delightful. At one place the rugged and conical peak of the
volcano suddenly loomed above the clouds, the peak looking
ten mUes high, its sides being so precipitous. It had been rain-

42 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
ing for some time and had suddenly ceased, and the air was
very clear.
Shortly after this we were going down the other side of the
pass at a good trot, Sasaki on his hard pack-saddle just in
front of me. I had been trying to fix the end of my umbrella
in my shoe as an easier way of carrying it, but the joggling
of the horse prevented me. Leaning over to see the shoe I
again attempted rather impatiently to jab the point in the
shoe, when, in some way, I missed the mark and the um
brella hit the horse under the belly. He instantly shied and I
was thrown to the ground striking on my head and shoulder.
I remember only scrambling out of the way of his hoof and
getting my foot out of the stirrup, as I had fallen on the right
and dragged the left stirrup over the saddle. Looking up, I
found Sasaki on the ground also, and supposed he had jumped
off to assist me. It seems, however, that his horse shied too,
and he had been thrown off his pack-saddle and landed on his
knees in precisely the same position in which he had rested on
his saddle, so instantaneously had the horse shied. Our horses
went tearing down the road and we after them. It meant walk
ing to Hakodate if we lost them, but shortly they encountered a
pack of horses coming up the raving and their rushing in among
them made a flurry of kicking and snorting. Despite this we
pushed in among the pack, bumping against their heavy loads,
avoiding kicks, and finally secured our horses. Sasaki was
lame for six months, and I slept on my left side for several
weeks. When we got out of the pass, at four o'clock, the mountains
of Hakodate were in plain sight, yet it was nearly midnight

OVER THE MOUNTAINS 43
before we reached the town. The last two miles we walked,
since the horses stumbled at every step over piles of dirt or
rocks in the road, and in our walk we were at times in the ditch
beside the road, at others sprawling over heaps of gravel that
had not been smoothed down.

CHAPTER XIV
HAKODATE AND THE EETURN TO TOKYO
Since our return to Hakodate we have had a number of
dredging trips in Tsugaru Straits, in one of which we went
away for the day taking a fine lunch. Bass's ale, and other
good things. At one place Takamine and I landed to walk to
a certain point about six miles in search of ancient shell heaps.
We could see our little steamer ahead of us, but before we got
to the point a gale sprang up, and though we waved our hand
kerchiefs till our arms were tired, they missed seeing us, and
we had the misery of watching the boat head for Hakodate
leaving us fifteen miles away. At a small fishing village we got
a bowl of thin fish soup and poor rice, thinking of the delicious
lunch aboard the vessel. Here we hired two pack-horses with
the native saddles, and these were so intolerable that part of
the time we walked, reaching Hakodate at night tired out and
lame enough. In coming back we had a magnificent view of
the volcanic mountain, its outline quite different from that
seen at Hakodate. The form of the crater could be clearly

Fig. 422

AT HAKODATE 45
made out, the slopes a light brown color and rich in the sun
light. Figure 422 is a rude sketch of its appearance.

Fig. 423

Figure 423 gives another sketch of our laboratory from
the front. We are packing, preparing to take our long trip

Fig. 424

across the straits and a twelve days' journey from Aomori
to Tokyo. Figure 424 shows the house I have lived in since
I have been in Hakodate. Next to it is the temple gate, and

46 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
it has always been interesting to see the people going in to
worship, or even bowing their heads in prayer as they passed
the entrance. To-day I noticed that the girls and little
chfldren were finely dressed, and that a great many flowers
were being brought into town, particularly a sort of blue
bell. This evening a great many people were going into the
temple, and I went into the temple yard and watched the
people as they ascended the broad steps. It was pleasant
to see them, old and young, as they walked up, first leav
ing their clumsy wooden sandals at the foot of the stairs.
When at the top, their figures, brightly clothed, stood out in
sharp contrast to the darkness of the temple within. After
enjoying this sight I came back to the house, when Mr.
Dean, the Danish consul, called out from the veranda that
I had not seen half of the sights and told me to go back
of the temple up the hill to the cemetery. It was an inter
esting walk through the temple grounds to the cemetery
above, which was in the midst of a sombre forest of tall cedars,
and here the people were making their offerings to the dead.
They first smoothed a place on the ground in front of the
gravestone, then spread clean white sand which they had
brought, and on it placed flowers in bamboo tubes which
stood like little vases, at the same time laying down a few
reddish-colored rice cakes, and in some cases quite a feast
of offerings. Here an old woman muttering a prayer was busy
smoothing the ground around a stone monument and taste
fully arranging a few flowers. It was a charming sight, the
quiet shade of the great trees, the gray-colored stones, square
and dignified in design, and the hundreds of brightly dressed

SUCCESSFUL DREDGING 47
children fluttering about Uke brilUant butterflies. It was in
teresting to find that these people too had their religion; that
they pray just as fervently and in their devotion go even
beyond the Catholics. There is always one service between
five and six in the morning, and at this early mass infirm old
men and women are borne on the backs of some sturdy rela
tive. In the street as they pass the temple the people always
bow very low and in many cases utter a prayer.
Since our return across the island we have had some re
markable dredging, getting many Brachiopods, and have
made some interesting studies of the living creature. On the
last day's dredging the authorities provided a much larger
steamer (fig. 425) and we went out to the deeper parts
of Tsugaru Straits.
Everything has been
done for us on the part
of the authorities, and
all our success in col
lecting is due to their
courtesies. In return
ing overland I decided
thatProfessor Yatabe,
Mr. Sasaki, and Mr. Yatabe's gardener should accompany
me, while Mr. Naniya and Mr. Takamine should go down
the west coast of Japan to dredge at Niigata, whUe Mr.
Tanada and my attendant and the servant of the Univer
sity should return with the coUections by the steamer to
Yokohama. Curiously enough, the three steamers for these
various destinations started the same day, August 17. We

Fig. 425

48 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
had a pleasant safl across the straits and finally entered a
vast bay. Sailing into this we passed the entrance of an
other immense bay, at the upper end of which no land could
be seen. The sea was perfectly calm, and we were all day
sailing from Hakodate to Aomori, a distance of seventy
miles. The town is long, low, and flat; beyond observing
these facts we noticed nothing. At six o'clock the next morn
ing we started on our long jinrikisha ride to Tokyo, a dis
tance of over five hundred miles, hoping to accomplish the
journey in ten days, though we were told that fifteen days
would be required.
We have passed at intervals a curious sign which seems
peculiar to the north of Japan (fig. 426). It is made of spruce
or cedar twigs bound together in a big ball,
two feet in diameter, and is the sign of a
wineshop. The saying, " Good wine needs no
bush," may have the same significance in
this country. Our first day's ride was over
a rugged and mountainous road, and we had
f 4.26 ^^ ^®^ °^^ ^^^ climb many a steep hill to
ease our jinrikisha men. The scenery was
very beautiful, and we had fine views of the great bays and
curiously shaped mountains. Toward night of the second
day we had to take pack-horses to cross a precipitous range
of mountains. It was a ride of fifteen miles. Our horses
were led by old men, who kept up a continual banter and
chaffing with one another the entire way. The endurance of
these men is amazing, even more so than that of the Tokyo
workmen. They were fifty or sixty years old, at least, and

A MOUNTAIN PASS 49
while climbing the most precipitous slopes, in some cases
apparently pulling the horses along, they had breath enough
left to joke and chaff continuously. At the top of the moun
tain pass I dismounted and walked a long distance to enjoy
the grand views. In one place we stood on the edge of a
precipice said to be eight hundred or one thousand feet to
its base. The face had been worn away by a river whose
grand curve disappeared beneath our feet hidden by the over
hanging edge of the precipice. We passed an old blind man
leading a horse down the road or path, which was rough,
crooked, and in places very steep, and yet this old man
seemed to know every part of it.
In the houses we pass I notice a curious basket cradle (fig.
427), a thick, circular basket of straw,
and the baby warmly stuffed into it.
Having crossed the mountainous
range we came to a long, level reach
of country, not unlike the rolling prairie
land of Iowa. Japan looks very small
on a map of the world and yet we were ^Fig. 427
an entire day crossing this prairie. The
vUlages were few and far between. Every settlement we
passed through had its peculiar features, some of the places
shabby and poor, while others were very trim and evidently
prosperous. We neared another range of mountains where the
villagers had managed to conduct a rapid mountain stream
through the middle of the main street. The street was
cleanly swept and in some cases the stream was bordered
with beautiful little clusters of flowers or oddly shaped

50 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
dwarf trees, and at intervals pretty Uttle rustic footbridges
spanned the stream. On the level plain I noticed poles
about ten feet high, which appeared to be telegraph poles,
except that there were no wires and the poles were a little
farther apart than telegraph poles. We were told that these
were erected in order that the traveler in winter could find
his way along the road, as all signs of the road disappear
under the deep snow: a good idea, which might be fol
lowed in our country in some places. The late storms had
done a great deal of damage. In many places the bridges
had been washed away, the roads had been overwhelmed by
landslides, a number of which we passed around. In one
place a house, partially wrecked, was standing in the middle
of what appeared to be a small stream, but which had been
a raging torrent.
The fatigue of traveling from morning till late at night
prevented my making many sketches on the trip. The vil
lage of Fukuoka I recall as a very beautiful place with its
row of little gardens in the middle of a wide main street and
the street cleanly swept. The people in this region have light-
brown eyes and are better-looking than those farther south;
' the children, with few exceptions, are unattractive. In many
places along the road springs of delicious cold water come
out of the rock, and neat little stone troughs had been placed
to catch the water for the comfort of horses and bulls. The
rarity of foreigners in this part of the country was indicated
by the way the "horses shied and kicked as we passed them.
Many of the old customs are stfll kept up. For example, in
no case did a man in meeting us pass me on horseback, but

AN OLD CUSTOM 51
in every instance the rider dismounted and waited until we
had passed. When I first noticed this, I thought the horses
were afraid and that the men dismounted to hold them, but
I learned that it is an old custom that the lower classes nevpr
ride by a superior when on horseback. It was somewhat em
barrassing to see a number of men, when they came in sight
on the road, promptly dismount from their high pack-saddles
and not mount again until I was weU by. On the road I met
men in the ancient form of dress such as one may see only
at the theatre.
A curious device for irrigating the rice-fields is shown in
figure 428. On the banks of a swift-running river a water
wheel was adjusted and was slowly
turned by the current. On the sides t^^^f>
of the wheel were fastened square ^^jciij^^^t?
wooden buckets ; as they dipped into puj^ 428
the stream they became fflled with
water, and as the wheel rotated the water was spilled from
the buckets into a trough which conveyed it into the fields
beyond. Whenever we rode through a village in the daytime it
seemed deserted. A few infirm old men and women and little
children were seen, but everybody else Was at work in the
rice-fields or on the farms or busy with duties in the house.
It fllustrates the universal industry of the people. Every
body works; all seem poor, but there are no paupers. The
many industries, which with us are carried on in large fac
tories, here are done in the home. What we do by the whole
sale in the factories they do in the dwellings, and as you ride

52 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
through the village you see the spinning, weaving, the mak
ing of vegetable wax, and many other industries. In these
operations the entire family is utiUzed from a child above
babyhood to blind old men and women. I have noticed this
feature particularly in the pottery industries in Kyoto. I
passed one house where the loud pounding of wooden maUets
attracted my attention. The people were engaged in making
vegetable wax, which is derived from the seeds of some
species of sumac. From this wax the Japanese make their
candles, and tons of it are sent to America for use in the
manufacture of cartridges. When at home last year I visited
the cartridge factory in Bridgeport, Connecticut, and Mr.
Hobbs, the superintendent, told me they were making mil
lions of cartridges for the Russian and Turkish armies, and
that Japanese vegetable wax was used to coat every cartridge.
Here in the north of Japan the making of this wax was going
on as in other parts of the Empire. The seeds are gathered
and reduced to a powder by a triphammer; the powder is
then heated in a fur
nace and put into a
stout bag, made of
strips of bamboo, which
is then placed in a
square hole in an enor
mous beam of wood.
A wedge is placed on
each side of the bag,
and two men with vigorous blows of long-handled mallets
drive down the wedges, squeezing the fluid wax out of the

Fig. 429

ROOF DECORATIONS 53
bag, which runs in a stream into a bucket sunk into the
ground below the hole, as shown in figure 429.
The ridge-poles of many of the roofs in the north of Japan
are covered with red lilies, and a pretty sight it is as one rides
through a village to see the crests of the houses flaming with
red. Around Tokyo the blue iris seems to be the favorite flower
for this decoration. One has no idea how beautiful these roofs
appear: grand old thatched
roofs, high and broad, with
a splendid sweep to the eaves
and surmounted by a wav
ing fringe of red lilies. The
eaves of these thatched roofs
are often three feet in thick
ness. The taste of the people
is shown in using alternately
dark straw and light straw in thatching, so that when the
eaves are evenly trimmed there are exposed alternate bands
of dark and light colored straw (fig. 430).
Last year I made a record in my journal that the farmer
cut his monogram in the end of the ridge and painted it black;
it was a natural inference seeing this gracefully written Chi
nese character. Through the region in which we are passing
the same initial is observed, and Professor Yatabe tells me
it is the Chinese character for water. He thought there was
some superstition that this character might keep away fire;
absurd, perhaps, but no more ridiculous than to see an intelli
gent man rap wood after some statement or to nail a horse
shoe over the door.

Fig. 430

54 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
One constantly notices the care taken to give comfort to
the horses. A simple device that we might foUow is to sus
pend a broad piece of cloth under the belly of
the horse. The constant flapping up and down
drives the flies away from that region of the
body most difficult to reach.
The lacquer trees we pass have their trunks
curiously marked with cuts, from which the
sap is scraped by men who collect it (fig. 431).
The trees appear as if they had been pur
posely ornamented with tattoo
marks.
Fig. 431 . , , , , ^
Along the road the Government
is laying a telegraph line which is to run the length
of the Empire. It was interesting to see the thor
ough way in which the work was being done. The
trees to make the poles, instead of being cut a foot
or two above the ground, were cut close to the
roots, so that the base was very wide, and this part
was charred to preserve it. This wide base gives
it a much firmer hold in the ground. The top of
the post was protected by a pyramidal piece of
hardwood which sheds the rain (fig. 432).
In a number of places in the northern part of
Japan I noticed at some distance from the village,
on each side of the road, a large mound, and on
1 1 <• ^^^- 432
each one a huge tree of great age. We were told
that they marked the boundary between villages, or towns.
At mtervals along the road Uttle booths were erected where

MELON BOOTHS 55
melons were sold (fig. 433), a fruit not unlike our cantaloupe,
but coarse in fibre and good only for its juice, though the
same fruit about Tokyo is delicious. The interesting feature
about these booths is
that in most cases
there was nobody
in them; the prices
were marked on the
melons, a box with
a little money in it
rested beside them,
and one could buy
and make change! I
was far ahead of my
companions, enjoying
the freedom and delight of walking in a strange country
unattended. At one of these booths I stopped, being very
thirsty, and wished to purchase a melon, but could see no
one in attendance nor any one in sight, and so had to wait
till Yatabe came up, when he explained that the man had
left his melons and a box of change in the morning and was
off to work in his rice-fields. I could not help wondering
how long the rickety booth would remain standing in our
country, to say nothing of the melons and change.
After being ferried across a river and walking over some
fearful washouts along the road, we approached a village.
It was nearly dark, and we passed a great many people com
ing from the village, nearly all of whom were men more or
less hilarious with sakL I never passed so many people in

Fig. 433

56 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
such a condition before. They came along in groups of a
dozen or more, talking, laughing, singing, and a few stagger
ing. Something unusual had been going on. In many cases
we had to walk through a crowd of them, as the smooth parts
of the road were -very narrow. The sight of a foreigner was
a great novelty to them and they stared continually. When
we reached the village we found there had been a wrestler's
exhibition, which accounted for the crowd. I make a note of
this experience to ask where in our blessed country would a
foreigner of another race pass crowds of men more or less
affected by liquor and fresh from an animating exhibition of
wrestling without receiving some slurring word or gesture?
When we got to the principal inn, every room was filled,
and what was more, after an hour's hunting among all the
inns of the place, big and little, no accommodation was to be
found. A company of two hundred soldiers had arrived only
a few hours before and the officers and many of the men had
filled the inns. So we sat there in the dark, ravenously hun
gry and tired out, while a native hunted up some prominent
man of the village to whom our plight might be explained
and who might help us to find some private accommodation.
There is a law in Japan that a foreigner shaU not stop at a
private house, and we were in despair. Finally accommoda
tions were found in a private house nearly opposite the
crowded inn where we were resting — a large room, beauti
ful and clean, absolutely free from fleas, conditions which
were a great luxury, as I had a hundred bites from these pests
already. A delicious supper was given us, and the next
morning we were off at four, first, however, endeavoring in

METHOD OF SMOKING FISH 57
vain to induce our host to accept something for his hospi
tality. Besides the countrymen still lingering in the vUlage,
there were the soldiers loitering about after their long march,
but I do not recall a hostile look or an impertinent gesture.
I was hundreds of miles from an American consul and with
only two attendants.
In one viUage at which we stopped I roamed back of the
town to find something new, and in a house noticed hanging
over the central fireplace a big cushion of
straw, into which were stuck many little
sticks, each one having upon it a
little fish which was thus smoked.
The contrivance was simple and
yet effective. The Japanese are
fond of smoked trout, and as fast
as they catch them they spit tham
on long, slender sticks of bam
boo which, they thrust into the cushion, as in
figure 434.
A curious way of doing up eggs for transporta
tion is shown in figure 435. The eggs are bound
together in straw like peas in a pod and can be
carried, hanging down in the hand.
After leaving Fukuoka we ascended rapidly; in
fact had a hard climb in reaching the crest of a
high range which we finaUy attained. The crest
had a deep cut through it to lessen the grade. The
Fig. 435 ^^^j^ seemed to be a light sandstone of which the
mountain was composed. A sketch of the cut is given in

Fig. 434

58 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
figure 436. The stratum dipped slightly to the west and was
fflled with fragments of shells and Brachiopods looking pre
cisely like those species I had dredged in Tsugaru Straits.
The deposit must be very new geologically, and illustrates

Fig. 436
how recent and profound are the changes which have taken
place in the northern part of this island. This region, judg
ing from the fossils, was at one time thirty or more fathoms
below sea-level and has been elevated two or three thousand
feet within recent geological times.
We entered Morioka, a large, flourishing town, by a nar
row street lined on both sides by houses rather close together

Fig. 437

DOWN THE KITAKAMI RIVER 59
and by gardens. The hollyhocks in great profusion were
peeping over light bamboo fences. The houses, all with
gable ends to the street, were heavily thatched, and the whole
place had an air of thriftiness. On our way to this town

Fig. 438
we got a fine view of Ewatayama, or "Namboo Fuji," as
it is called, because it resembles Fujiyama and rises from
a region caUed Namboo (fig. 437). At Morioka the river
is quite wide, and here we had to take a boat, and to get
one we were directed to a lumber yard on the banks of the

Fig. 439
river. The office was two stories in height and the rooms, as
weU as the sanitary arrangements, were immaculate in their
cleanliness — and this in a common lumber yard! While
negotiating for the boat and crew a little lunch with tea was
offered us from the daintiest of dishes. We stopped but a

60 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
short time at Morioka, laid in some fruit and candy, and at
noon started for a sail down the Kitakami River to Sendai,
a hundred and twenty-five miles. The boat we engaged was
different from the boats we saw last year on the Tonegawa; the
stern was square and high and the bow long and sharp. Fig-

Fig. 441

Fig. 440
ure 438 is a sketch of the boat
with one man rowing, two men
poling, and the fourth mem
ber of the crew sound asleep. The rudder is held in place
by a miracle; at least the bearing is only three inches wide
and apparently hangs on nothing. In the centre of the boat
was a square area carpeted by straw mats, and here we were to
eat and sleep for a few days more. Heavy rush mats formed
a roof over our heads. The river was sluggish, the current
helped but little, and the crew were a good-natured but lazy
lot of fellows who had to be continually urged to hurry up. ,

RIVER FISHERMEN 61
On the banks of the river were men fishing. So used are
they to sit on their legs at every form of work or pleasure that
these fishermen had light
bamboo tables upon which
they squatted on the shore
or in the river, and we saw
them either on their tables
or wading along with their
stands on their backs. They
have two hooks on their line
on one of which is a live fish
for a decoy. They have a
floating box in which they
keep the fish, for they seU them in the market alive. Figure
439 is the roughest possible sketch of the fishermen. Up
to eleven o'clock at night we were carried along by the cur
rent, sluggish as it was, but as dangerous rapids were ahead
and the moon was not up the crew would not proceed. So
we puUed up at a little viUage and patiently waited for the

Fig. 442

62 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
moon to rise, which it did at two o'clock, and we got under
way again. I sat up till we passed the rapids and then lay
down on the hard floor with a Japanese pUlow and slept

soundly till daylight. Figure 440 shows one of the crew smok
ing, with a cloth tied over his head like a bonnet. Here I may
mention the fact that in Yezo,
even on hot days the country
woman ties up her head and face
in a blue cotton cloth so that in
some cases only the nose is visible.
Figure 441 is another member of
the crew.
The next morning we were up
bright and early and enjoyed the
delightful landscape and the in
teresting objects along the shore. After the toughest experi
ences on horseback and the roughest jinrikisha travel, it was
a pleasure to float along without jolt or care and to begufle
ourselves by watching the crew, the river, the shore and

Fig. 445

Fig. 446

RIVER TRAVEL 63
landscape beyond. Our kettle was soon boiling and rice and
fresh trout gave us a good breakfast. Figure 442 shows our

Fig. 447
fireplace on the boat, and figure 443 is a suggestion of the
appearance presented by two of our crew as they were tak
ing their rice.
The scenery on the river was beautiful. Namboo Fuji was
in sight the entire day (fig. 444). We dozed
under the matting and kept out of the hot sun
as much as possible. The only water to drink
was from the river and it was lukewarm and
very dirty. Figure 445 is a sketch of our boat
from the stern. The sail, as before described,
^consists of strips of cloth laced together leaving
iquite an interspace between the strips as shown in the

Fig. 448

64 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
sketch. The boatman's song on the river closely resembled
the boatman's song in Hakodate. Figure 446 is the song
A

Fig. 449

written for me by Professor FenoUosa, the first song being
the Hakodate song, the second stanza being the variant sung
by boatmen on the Kitakami River. At times boatmen

Fig. 450

THE BOATMEN 65
would come out to seU us fish, and while trading with them
we would all drift together downstream. Figure 447 shows
our boat's crew rowing
and poling. Figure 448
is a sketch of one of
our boatmen on the
third day of our voy
age. His queue had be
come demoralized and
was tied in a knot on
top of his head; his
shaved pate and chin
were bristling with a
new growth of hair, and his nose was very red from sun
burn. The first thing he will do as soon as we land will be
to hunt up a barber, get a shave, and have his queue rebuflt.
Figure 449 represents another type of river boat, with flat
bottom and broad stern, a freight-carrier. This boat is work
ing its way up the river, and a man under the stern is push
ing the boat off some sandbar.
At one place we landed at the foot of a precipitous bluff and
started off, despite the hot sun, to collect land snails, and in a
short time we had found eight species new to our collection.
On these precipitous bluffs fishermen establish their stations.
The Uttle hut for this station (fig. 450) was thirty feet above

Fig. 451

Fig. 452

66 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
the river, and by a long rope the fishermen could pull up their
nets to see if any fish were caught. A ladder runs up to the hut,
which was of the rudest
description. Figure 451
illustrates a type of net.
Along the whole length
of the river one notices
these fishing stations.
As we approached Sen
dai Bay the river became
wider, less rapid, and not
so clear. During the last
day of our sail it was dif-
FiG-453 ficult to drink the wa
ter, it was so thick with sediment. Along the shore people
were seen washing clothes, or themselves. One little sketch
was made which illustrates the tameness of crows. A woman
was evidently cleaning fish over the side of a boat, and within
a few feet of her a crow had alighted and was perched on
the boat watching the operation (fig. 452). As we neared the

AN OBJECT OF CURIOSITY 67
mouth of the river the wind began to blow upstream and our
boatmen got out on the bank and towed the boat for several
miles (fig. 453). This they did by hoisting the mast, attach
ing a rope to the top of it, and pulling the boat along. One
man remained on the boat and with a long bamboo pole
kept the boat from running ashore. It was a lazy experi
ence — imprisoned in a boat for three days — and we dozed
and slept much of the time. In the sketch (fig. 454) one

Fig. 455

of US has a sheet of paper over his head to keep off the
mosquitoes. After getting on in this slow way for several
hours we concluded, in order to save time, to land at the
first viUage and take jinrikishas to Sendai. I was glad we
did, for we got into a village where the sight of a foreigner
must have been a great novelty — if, indeed, they had ever
seen one before. The people, young and old, flocked about us
in great crowds, and at the inn where we stopped they filled
the yard, clambered on the fence, and stared at me as if I had
come from the moon. Every now and then I would make a
rush at them, a good-natured one, of course, and they would

68 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
run clattering away on their wooden clogs as if the devil were
after them. When we started in the jinrikishas the crowd
followed along by the sides for some time looking at me with
the greatest curiosity and interest.
I noticed quite a change in the architecture of the towns
through which we passed and a curious arrangement of beams
in the gable end of the houses. The one shown in figure 455
was typical and reminded me of the picturesque architecture
of Switzerland. The wood, in its natural condition, Was, of

Fig. 456

course, gray with age. We came along at such a rapid rate that
I had but little time to sketch, but I noticed all along the
way the fine woodwork on the houses. A long bay window
over the first story was often of the most delicate woodwork
with perforated designs of pine, bamboo, or other motive, as
seen in figure 456.
In some of the vUlages through which we passed, the main
street was almost entirely spread with mats on which the peo
ple were drying indigo leaves. Women and children were strip
ping the leaves from the branches brought in by others, and
their hands were stained blue by the work. So fflled was the

A SLEEPY PRIEST 69
street with these mats and leaves that our jinrikisha would run
over them. As we neared Sendai the men seemed to wake up
and run faster; the roads improved, and it was a great luxury
to move rapidly after the slow monotony of the boat. When
we came to a village the men would tear through it like mad,
yelling for people to clear the track, and everybody would
rush into the street to see what sort of a show was going by.
The people are as curious as
are the Yankees. Whenever
I threw away the end of a
cigar, some one would pick
it up and tear it apart to see
how it was made.
Figure 457 is a curious fan
about three feet high that is
used to fan dust out of rice or
to winnow the chaff out of
grain. A man holds the upright handles, which are made of a
continuous piece of bamboo, and moves his hands in and out
as if he were working a pair of bellows; this movement opens
and closes the fans, which are shaped like butterflies' wings.
The jinrikishas were single ones and narrow, and one had to
keep awake to balance them as they were high and top-
heavy. It was misery to have to keep awake for fear of
upsetting. Ahead of me was a Buddhist priest in his beauti
ful robes, his head drooping in sleep. I knew he would go
over, and I got wide awake watching him for a mile or more
when over he went into the wet gutter beside the road. The
jinrikisha man was also thrown, but picked himself up and

Fig. 457

70 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
stood with his hat off bowing again and again in apology. I
could not help laughing, and when the priest noticed me, he
laughed in sympathy.
Toward afternoon we found it would be difficult to reach
Sendai that night, so we stopped at Matsushima, a famous
resort. It was delightful to feel the salt breezes again. The
beach was covered with seaweed, as the tide was out, and the
odor was deUcious. We stopped at a pretty little tea-house
on a promontory partly hidden by trees. As we rode into
Matsushima the road led around bluffs in which were caves
of various sizes, all
bearing the marks of
former erosion of the
sea. This wearing ac
tion was very curious.
The upper layers of
rock overhung the
lower portion resem
bling certain forms
of snowdrifts. Figure
458 is a fair representation of the form these rocks assume,
whether on land or sea, for the Bay of Sendai has hundreds
like the one figured. Some of these islands are not over
twenty feet long; others are much larger, standing twenty feet
above the water. It is a most singular effect and shows the
great denudation and recent elevation that have taken place.
We were up before daylight the next morning and reached
the city of Sendai by nine o'clock. To be riding through
crowded streets seemed a little like Tokyo. Two of our men

Fig. 458

SENDAI 71
were left at Matsushhna to make collections, and Yatabe and
I started for the long ride to Tokyo. We left everything we
could spare so as to travel light, and had two men to a jin
rikisha. Yatabe endeavored to telegraph to Tokyo, but found
to his surprise that all telegrams from private persons were
forbidden. This worried him a good deal, for various inquir
ies fafled to bring any explanation of this edict. Had a revolu
tion broken out in Tokyo? Was there an anti-foreign demon
stration? Nothing could be learned, and so we started for a
two-hundred-mile ride overland to Tokyo. ^ It seemed to me,
after this hold-up on telegrams, that every Japanese we passed
looked at me suspiciously. After leaving Sendai we rode for
two hours before we learned that we were going in the wrong
direction. We were then compelled to go back to Sendai,
losing half a day by the blunder. Here we had dinner, and
with a new team of men rode until ten o'clock at night when
we reached Fujita. All the tea-houses were full, so we were
compelled to sleep in an obscure inn with poor mats, poor food,
and fleas in plenty, but we were too tired to complain.
The next day we had to make seventy miles to Shirakawa in
order to reach Utsunomiya the next night, so we started be
fore sunrise, and before night we were almost paralyzed with
fatigue. I remember that at noon we stopped at a very pretty
tea-house for something to eat. The garden behind, though
only ten feet in depth, gave a good idea of how the Japanese
utilize the narrowest strips of land. This little area was a
charming sight from the room where we rested. The bushes
' As we neared Tokyo we learned that a mutiny had broken out in the Tokyo
garrison, hence the suppression of the telegraph.

72 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
were gracefully trimmed, the iris dwarfed, curious rocks were
piled here and there, little evergreens and Japanese maple
gave color,. and the whole effect was pleasing. All the after
noon we traveled, and at seven o'clock we were so tired that
it seemed impossible to go farther, yet, after taking a hearty
lunch of rice, we started for the next station. It was cool and
delightful riding in the evening air and interesting, passing
through vUlage after viUage at night and then into the open
country road again. If we could only reach Shirakawa that
night we could get to Utsunomiya the next night, and from
that place we could get a stage to Tokyo.
As we neared the town at ten o'clock at night we knew some
unusual event was taking place, as people were flocking along
the road in numbers. As we got into the place we found that
the buUdings were aU Uluminated by lanterns and transpar
encies of various designs. It was half-past ten before we found
accommodations for the night, so full were all the inns, and the
inn we finally stopped at was crowded and the streets thronged
with people, all smiling and happy. At eleven o'clock a big
procession came along, all having lanterns of bright colors on
the ends of long poles or carrying them in the hands. As the
procession was made up of companies, or groups, they prob
ably represented different trades or charitable organizations.
One group had red lanterns, another white, and so on. The
oddest sight was to see the lanterns carried on long bamboo
poles, in some instances thirty feet high, the men seeming to
have all they could do to balance them. The men moved along
in a sort of half trot, and aU shouted, "Yasu! Yasu!"
In the middle of the procession was an elaborate canopy

A PROCESSION 73
carried on the shoulders of a dozen or more men, and in carry
ing it there seemed to be a mock struggle by some of them to
hold it back as if it were being borne along reluctantly. It was
impossible to sketch this scene, but you may imagine the
appearance of a wide street lined with the low, one-storied
Japanese houses, with rows of lanterns under their eaves, the
tea-houses filled with admiring guests, girls playing on the
samisen, or flute, and the street fflled with this trotting pro
cession, lanterns bobbing up and down from poles fifteen feet
high, and, at intervals, in pairs, big lanterns on poles thirty
feet high. I, a solitary foreigner looking on, was greeted by
every one that passed with a glance, yet not a disrespectful
look or the slightest rudeness was offered by this great crowd.
The next morning we were off by candle-light. At noon we
stopped at a place famous for its fried eels and we had a deli
cious dinner. In the afternoon we crossed the Tonegawa
swollen by the rains, and whfle waiting for the ferry-boat we
noticed a crowd of Japanese below the landing on a broad strip
of sand that bordered the river. We were told that a few hours
before a man had been drowned in attempting to wade the
river, and they were just getting ready to remove the body
which had been recovered. I went down into the crowd, and
there was the customary big wooden tub in which the body
had been packed preparatory to cremation, a woman beside it
in deepest grief. A few men were burning incense sticks, and
the rush of water, the stretch of sterile sand, and the black,
scudding clouds above all formed a sombre and striking scene.
My sudden appearance among them was like an apparition,
and they all looked at me as if I had dropped from the clouds

74 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
above. The boat came and I hurried back to the landing.
Soon afterward it began to rain and continued to rain the
whole day.
About seven o'clock in the evening we reached Utsuno
miya, sixty-seven mfles from Tokyo. It seemed like getting
home again, for it was the first famUiar place I had seen since
I left Tokyo in July. We spent the night here on our way to
Nikko last year; we now stopped at the same house and I had
the same room. I could hardly realize that in the short time
that had elapsed since my first visit I had been to America and
returned, to Yezio and back overland, had got so accustomed
to Japanese food that I could not only eat with a relish, but
could ask in Japanese for anything I wished, and had become
so used to the Japanese objects, ways, etc., that everything
seemed perfectly natural.
The stage left at six the next morning. Our passengers were
all Japanese, and among them were two rather elderly ladies
who had been to Nikko and were returning to their home in
Tokyo. They were all very pleasant and courteous and of
fered to one another candies and cakes, and, in turn, dropped
a few cents into the tray that was often brought to us with
cups of tea from some wayside booth. At noon we had dinner
together, and I amused the ladies a good deal by insisting upon
pouring the tea for them. I also entertained them with a num
ber of hand tricks and we had a most enjoyable time. At
the inn I got a sketch (fig. 459) of one of the ladies as she
was taking an afternoon smoke, at most three or four gentle
whiffs. It shows the position of the right fpot when sitting
on the floor; the left foot is just inside. The upper, outer side

A STONE LANTERN 75
of the feet rest on the mats while one sits on the inner side
of the feet and the lower part of
the leg.
Figure 460 is an ishidoro, or stone
lantern, in a garden back of the
inn at Utsunomiya. The upper
piece is wrought out of a single
block of stone and the pedestal
represents an old stump of a tree
worked out of another block of
stone. It was old, judging from the lichen that grew upon
it. What amazes one in Japan
is the fine stonework, cabinet
work, and other kinds of arti
sans' work found in nearly every
town and village. It shows the
widespread distribution of men
in various occupations who are
skilled in the work they do, all
having served their apprentice
ship faithfully.
At noon we came again to
the Tonegawa and crossed it in
a large, flat-bottomed scow, and
then went on again, changing
horses every few miles. As we
Pjq 4gQ approached Tokyo, particularly
in the outskirts of the city, I
began to notice how much prettier the children were than

76 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
in the country. I noticed this feature in approaching Sendai.
I explained this marked contrast in the appearance of the
children by the fact that in all the inns and tea-houses girls
are employed as servants, and the keepers of these places
evidently scour the country for good-looking girls. These
come to the city, ultimately marry, and transmit their good
looks to their children. This, at least, seems a rational expla
nation.

CHAPTER XV
A JAPANESE WINTER
We got back to Tokyo about seven in the evening and I
started for the yashiki with a fresh jinrikisha. It seemed odd
to be riding through crowded streets again. It made me quite
nervous for fear of a collision, and it was several days before
I became accustomed to it. I had been traveling for eleven
days on long country roads a distance as far as from New
York to Columbus, Ohio, and more than half this distance
with a single Japanese companion, yet, with the exception of
a scowl from an old Japanese woman in a village far to the
north, and an experience with two men who endeavored to
make me move off a narrow road, I had met no unfriendly de
monstrations during my entire journey. The road experience
was a perfectly natural one, and might happen a thousand
times in our country when two gentlemen walking along a
country road would not permit themselves to be crowded into
,the gutter by a Chinese laundryman. I was half a mile ahead
of my companions, and was standing in the middle of a nar
row road sketching the outline of mountains. The two men
regarded me as an outside barbarian, and to avoid the risk of
a fight I should have regarded myself as such and stepped to
one side. But their evident intent to run me down made me
stand my ground, and just as they were ready to push into me
they parted and did not even brush me, though I felt a little
apprehension as they passed.

78 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
In inquiring about the names of fingers and toes I found the
Japanese have no name for toes except "foot fingers." The
thumb is called "great finger," or "parent finger"; the fore
finger is named "man-pointing finger"; the mid-finger is
known as "high, high finger"; the ring finger is designated
as "medicine finger" or "no-name finger"; and the little
finger bears the same name as with us, "little finger." In
Spanish the third or ring finger is also known as "medicine
finger," as when we apply ointment to the eyes, or when we rub
them, we nearly always use the third finger, this finger being
softer. In a few Indian vocabularies to which I have referred
the toes are called "foot fingers." The teeth also have their
names; the incisors, or front teeth, are called "thread-cutting
teeth," showing that the Japanese ladies have the same bad
habit that ours have. The Japanese word for "tusk" is the
name for canine teeth; the molars are called "back teeth";
while the wisdom teeth are known as "no parent teeth," as
they usually appear after one's parents are dead. The eye
brow is called "hair over the eye"; eyelashes are called "pine
hairs." The neck is called " root of the head." There is no dis
tinct name for the ankle and wrist, it is leg and hand kubi;
the prominences on the ankle are called "black prominences,"
as in their barefoot habits these parts show the dirt first. The
shin is caUed mukozune, and the Japanese say when this
part is struck even Benkei would cry. Benkei was a very strong
man and marvelous stories are told in regard to his strength.
A Japanese professor and his wife caUed at our house the
other day and I induced the latter to permit me to make
a sketch of her. The face does no justice to her beauty

MECHANICAL TOYS 79
(fig. 461); I also had an opportunity to sketch a Japanese
baby sound asleep.
One may visit the market many
tinies and meet with something
never noticed before. One is at once
impressed with the artistic way in
which everything is displayed and
the immaculate cleanliness of every
thing; the turnips and white rad
ishes are literally white, not a par
ticle of dirt showing upon them,
and everything is tied or done up
in graceful ways. String beans are
bound with straw in packages as
shown in figure 462.
The mechanical toys are always
interesting. With the simplest of construction, and frafl as
many of them appear, their
durability is remarkable. The
mouse that eats out of a dish
and drops his tafl at the same
time is shown in figure 463.
The bamboo spring on the
side keeps the mouse in an
attitude of head and tail up,
by strings that run up from
the stand below. The moment you press the spring the
string is loosened, the head and tafl drop, the head going
into a little ring of bamboo which represents a dish. The

/

Fig. 461

Fig. 462

80 JAPAN t)AY BY DAY
mouse is not painted, but charred, making a brown surface.
The Japanese have a great many ingenious devices for toys
of this description, many of them
on sticks to be moved by strings,
or they may move like our jumping-
jacks. Many toys and games are simflar
to ours, though in many instances
they are more elaborate; thus, in
cat's-cradle the forms go beyond
ours. The Japanese make a great
variety of paper objects, and many
of them are very ingenious. Those
commonly made represent a kimono,
a flying heron, a boat, lantern, flower,
stand, box, the box quite differ
ent from the fly-box of our boy
hood. As another illustration of the
tameness of birds, especially crows, my jinrikisha man had
left his lantern hanging on behind the jinrikisha, and while
I was putting on my overcoat, within three feet of the jin
rikisha, a crow came down, alighted on the wheel, smashed
a hole through the paper lantern, and devoured the vegetable
wax candle within. I allowed him to do it and would have
paid for a hundred lanterns and candles rather than have
missed the experience. The crows are literally the scavengers
of the streets, and are often seen disputing with a dog the
possession of a bone or stealing crumbs from the children.

Fig. 463

Fig. 464

TOPS, BALLS, AND STILTS 81
Japanese artists have depicted a crow stealing a fish from a
basket carried on the head of a street peddler. The crows are
very tame because they are never treated unkindly; indeed,
all wild animals are tame and the domestic animals are much
tamer than with us.
At this time of the year (November) the children are flying
kites, playing ball, or spinning tops. They fight their peg
tops as our boys do. The tops, however, are
differently shaped from ours, as shown in fig
ure 464; and instead of endeavoring to split
the other top they push them together until
one or the other stops. The baU-playing con
sists in patting the ball to the ground, then catching it on
the back of the hand and bouncing it again; the one who
can do this the greatest number of times wins.
The boys are as fond of walking on stilts as are our boys.
The stilts are called chikuba; literally, "bamboo horse."
One speaks of a boyhood friend as a chikuba
no tomodachi, or "stilt friend." Figure 465
represents two types of stilts, one made of
two pieces of wood bound to bamboo by
cord. The rest for the foot, instead of being
transverse to the foot, is lengthwise, so that
the whole sole of the foot is supported. The
other is a rarer form made entirely of wood.
The stilts may be four or five feet in height, and the boys
often hop on one stilt and with the other endeavor to dis
lodge, or puU down an antagonist, and in this way get up
lively contests.

Fig. 465

82 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
November 22. We visited the Omori shell mound again to
make a collection of the different species of shells composing
it, and then went to the beach to coUect the living examples
washed up along the shore in order to compare the two. I
had begun to notice the difference in the sheUs sometime ago,
not only the variance in size, but a difference in proportion.
Three species of a bivalve shell {Area granosa, lamarckiana,
and ponderosa), having radiating ribs Uke a scallop, have in
creased the number of ribs since the shells were deposited;
one species of whelk {Eburna) has a more acute spire to-day;
another species (Lunatia) has a less acute spire. ^
While walking along the railroad track we observed that
the Japanese workman in grading would sing with every
stroke of the shovel or bar. The Japanese apparently sing
at all their work.
We went to a famous tea-house for lunch. A stone monu
ment in the beautiful garden had an inscription which puz
zled my Japanese friends to translate. Professor Yatabe
said the meaning of it might be conveyed by the following:
"The fragrance of plum blossoms causes the flowing of ink
in the writing room." The idea to be conveyed is that the
fragrance of flowers prompts the poet to write verses. Many
of these inscriptions, often from their own or from Chinese
classics, are found on tablets hanging up in the houses or on
stone slabs in the gardens. When translated they sound rather
feeble to us, but the Japanese insist that the characters in
' These and other differences were published in my memoir of the Omori shell
mounds. That portion referring to the changes observed in the shells was sent to
Darwin, and in reply he said, "What a constant state of fluctuation the whole organic
world seems to be in!" {More Letters of Charles Danoin, vol. i, p. 383.)

TRANSLATING INSCRIPTIONS 83
which they are written mean much more to them and that the
spirit is impossible to translate. The students with me en
deavored to render the inscription into English, but found it

Fig. 466
very difficult. One of them accomplished the foUowing: "The
odor of plums is like the flowing of ink in a room where they
keep white paper." Mrs. Yatabe wrote in my album a senti
ment from the Chinese classics which is said to be beautifully
done. A tracing of these
characters is given in fig
ure 466: "Loving flowers
we rise early in the spring,
admiring the moon we
retire late at night."
The sign for macaroni — ujjmiimu ^ .an
(fig. 467) consists of a
block of wood with strips of paper hanging Uke a fringe
below. The macaroni is made from buckwheat and is very

84 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
good in soup. The sign for paste is a round disk with
a character for paste written upon it (fig. 468). Paste is an
article of merchandise as with
us, the Japanese, however,
finding many more uses for it.
^ .. , This season (the last of No-
Fig. 468 X.^.-/ , , T •
vember) seems to be the time
for moving trees, and one meets the tree-movers very often
in the streets. I have seen a tree so large that thirty men
were required to handle it. The trees seem to bear repeated
transplantings, for they are sold and resold again and again,
and are carried mUes in
the way shown in figure
469. As the cold weather
approaches the people
appear in thicker over-
, , , Fig. 469
garments, though the
lower classes are all barelegged and barefooted, and so far
as one can see the houses are as open as ever. With a heavy
frost on the ground and the ditches along the streets frozen
over, the little shops are stfll wide open, the only source
of heat being the little fire box, or hibachi, around which
they seem to cuddle a little closer to warm their hands over
the few coals burning in the ashes. It is an odd sight to
see jinrikisha men, after a run of miles and reeking with
perspiration, throw a light blanket loosely over the back
and sit in the cold wind whUe waiting for another fare.
Everybody goes bareheaded, and so unaccustomed are they

WINTER CLOTHING 85
to wearing a hat that oftentunes when students wear a hat
in caUing on you, they will go off without it and perhaps
come a week after to reclaim it, the delay show
ing how little they miss it. In cold weather
men wear a cloth bag arrangement, heavily
quilted, with a long cape behind. It appears
to be a bag with a hole in it for the face (fig.
470). We have the same device made of
worsted for boys at home. The chUdren, when bundled up
in their warm clothing, are funny-looking things. The outer
garment is heavily wadded, and the sleeves are so long that
the hands are entirely hidden; it resembles a Chinese gar
ment. The ladies wear a very becoming hood made out of
a piece of cloth, a yard and a quarter long, folded as in figure
471 and sewed at A, but open behind; in
side, at B, are long loops which go over the
ears pulling it down in front, the face coming
out at D; the two flaps, E E, are wound
around behind the neck and folded in front.
It is very easily adjusted and is a device that
would be appreciated in our country. It is
generally made of purple crape, and even a
plain woman looks pretty when wearing it.
Figure 472 represents a lady wearing the hood.
The oranges now displayed in the markets are aU of the
variety known with us as tangerines; they have a very thin,
easily removed skin, and the segments almost drop apart.
In some you can look through the centre, as the segments
do not meet. They vary from the size of an English walnut

Fig. 471

86 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
to some as large as our ordinary orange. The smaller varieties
are seedless; the very large
ones are not good to eat,
but are used as ornaments.
When oranges are to be
given as presents they are
packed in a very attractive
manner in open wicker-
work baskets of bamboo.
These baskets are sup
ported on three bamboo
legs, the strips of bamboo
being prolonged two feet
above the or
anges and held
together by two
bamboo rings
(fig. 473). The
shops are very pretty with these graceful orange-
holders in rows, arranged artistically with a little
sprig of evergreen on top and with the rich
color of the oranges showing through the deli
cate slats of green bamboo. An interesting and
puzzling way of cutting an orange is shown in
figure 474; figure 475 shows one half from the
end, the dotted lines showing the manner of
cutting. The soft and easily separated peel
renders it rather easy to do, yet at home a
friend of mine did it with one of our hard-skinned oranges.

Fig. 472

Fig. 473

BATTLEDORE AND SHUTTLECOCK 87
The games are as seasonable as with us. Kite-flying, top-
spinning, and battledore and shuttlecock are dominant at
present. In walking or riding you are
often struck by the shuttlecock, al
ways followed with smiles and apolo
gies. The implements are different
from ours. The battledore is made
of board, on one side of which is an
elaborate picture in crape of bright
colors in relief, the subject being
some celebrated hero or actor. Some
of the battledores are very elaborate
in their decoration (fig. 476). The
shuttlecock is made out of the soap
berry seed {mukuroji), five feathers
forming a plume at one end. These
are sold in sets of five and are held
in a slip of bamboo (fig. 477). In the shops where they are
sold they have a most brilliant display of them, and gener
ally a huge shuttlecock hangs outside as
a sign. Figure 478 represents Daikoku,
god of fortune. It is made up of pieces of
-^i— u bright-colored brocade with gflt threads
_ /^ S interwoven, and is coarsely made, as the
toy is very cheap. Figure 479 shows the
attitude of a giri in playing battledore.
Instead of the thum, thum, thum sound of
our battledore, the sound of the Japanese game is click, click,
click, as the hard seed is struck by the wooden battledore.

Fig. 475

Fig. 477

"fe

Fig. 478

Fig. 479

OUTDOOR FAIRS 89
During this month (December) there are a number of fairs
held in the vicinity of the temples, the articles sold consisting
of household decorations of straw for the New Year, shrines
for the house, and children's toys. The larger fairs having been
held, the smaller ones spring up in various parts of the city.
It is astonishing what crowds of people throng these outdoor
bazaars. We attended one held near a temple not far from
the yashiki. The streets on both sides were crowded with
booths, and the people were packed in a dense mass, many
going to the temple to get
their purchases blessed by the
priests, holding them high
above their heads to avoid
their being crushed by the
crowd. It was interesting to
observe that at all these fes
tivals the objects offered for
sale were children's toys, re

ligious or semi-religious deco
rations, and objects connected
with their household shrines.
When I read in the papers
from home letters by mission
aries saying that the temples
are being deserted and the
faith dying out, and then see
the actual facts of temples
crowded every day, temples being retiled and repaired, with
every evidence of prosperity, I wonder at such false reports.

Fig. 480

m

90 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
The objects for New Year's decorations are made of rice
straw, twisted and braided in various ways. It is customary
to hang them over the entrance of the house
and also over the household shrine. Many
of the designs are pretty, and some of them
indicate considerable skill in their construc
tion. One of the prettiest designs and one
of the most common is shown in figure 480.
This one was over two feet long
and the pendants below were three
feet in length. The roll may repre
sent a boat; if so its cargo consists
of three balls made of rice straw
with sprigs of pine and some bright
red berries. Below a few bunches
of rice are hanging; a little gilt leaf
is stuck on the poles of the balls
and the whole affair is bright and
attractive. Another one (fig. 481)
is a wreath of straw with bunches
of rice and straw hanging down; figure 482 shows a
form which is hung over a door and consists of a
twisted strand of straw running down to a point.
Some of them are six feet long, and one often sees
this form in Shinto temples. Figure 483 is a fringe
to hang over the door, and figure 484 is a rope of
straw woven, with strands hanging to it at a distance of five
inches apart. This is wound up like a huge tassel, and when
unwound is hung around the sides of the room, white paper

Fig. 481

Fig. 482

Fig. 483

NEW YEAR'S DECORATIONS 91
cut in symbolic form being tied to the rope between the
pendent strings. In some cases the decoration is very elab
orate. In figure 485 is rep
resented a complicated struc
ture over a gateway. In the
centre is a lobster with dried
seaweed hanging below, dried
persimmons on each side,
fronds of ferns pendent, paper
cut after Shinto style, and the
whole structure supported by pine trees. Without color it
is difficult to represent its attractive appearance. Figure 486
shows a decoration in front of a gate; the cut bamboo, deep
green in color, was twelve feet high and looked Uke huge
organ pipes. These rose from a cluster of pine twigs, the base
firmly tied up with straw
rope and the earth neatly
pUed up below with a straw
ring to hold the earth.
At New Year's time it is
a constant source of pleasure
to roam through the streets
and study the great variety
of decorations. The taste dis-
' played, the sentiments con
veyed by the use of symbolic
material, such as pine, bamboo, etc., make an interesting
study. On New Year's in my round of caUs I noticed that
many of the shops were closed. The streets presented a

Fig. 484

92 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
lively sight of action and color — the older people, finely
dressed, making their New Year's calls, the younger ones
brilliantly dressed, playing
battledore and shuttlecock,
the boys flying highly col
ored kites of all sizes and at
all heights. In gardens of
the higher classes the girls
were gayly dressed, and such
flashes of color as their long
sleeves streamed in the air
in striking the shuttlecock!
A great many officers and soldiers were on the streets, flags
were flying everywhere,
and nearly every house
was decorated with the
quaint straw devices. It
was an inspiring sight to
see the streets thronging
with children, to hear the
sound of musical instru
ments, and here and there
to catch a glimpse of
convivial parties sitting
around their food and
wine. At every place
where I called food and
sake were offered me as
one of the customs of the New Year, for even the food con-

NEW YEAR'S CALLS 93
veys some sentiment as weU as satisfaction. A sweet sake
is always served at New Year's, and this is offered in a
special vessel with a spout like a teapot, and the bafl, or
handle of porcelain, or pottery, is in one piece with the
body. One often sees these objects mixed with a collection
of teapots.
As the service is essentially the same as to dishes and food
a sketch of one will answer for aU. Figure 487 represents a

Fig. 487

typical service of wine, cake, etc., at the house of one of the
Japanese professors where I felt well enough acquainted to
pull out my sketch book. The drawings show the objects just
as they were upon the mats. The pot of sweet sake is seen to
the right with a sprig of pine and the noshi which always ac
companies a present secured to the handle; the ordinary sake
is served in a bottle which rests in a low square box. The
three square lacquer boxes one above another contain the
food, which consisted of the following articles: fish eggs in
masses, just as they are taken from the fish; a bean pickle in
sugar syrup and Japanese sauce; a little dried fish as hard
as a stick; lotus root, cut in oblique slices and very palatable;
a water chestnut, cut in sharp scallops; a fish tied up in a

94 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
bundle with green seaweed; cold omelette, cut in slices; cake,
tea, and sake (fig. 488). The Japanese are very formal in their
observances of New Year's calls. The
gentlemen call and leave their cards in
boxes or baskets at the door, or walk in
and drink a little tea or sake. After a few
days the ladies call. On New Year's day
the Japanese officials call on the heads of
departments, and one sees many officers
on their way to the palace, and a funny
sight it is to see those who affected for
eign costumes. The New Year's celebra
tions continue for a week, and during this
time it is impossible to get any work
done. How staid and sober our New
England method of celebration of New
Year's appears in contrast to all this
gayety — a few wreaths hung up in the
window, but nothing more. In New York City the sav
agery of horn-blowing finds its parallel only in the racket
made by the Chinese.
A present came to our
house of two large, fat
teal (fig. 489). These
were in a square, shal
low basket standing on
c u . u u 1 Fig. 489
four short bamboo legs.
The teal rested on vegetables, greens and three round lemons.

m

Fig. 488

MOCHI 95
The birds are made into soup and the lemons are squeezed
upon it, but notice the neatness of the whole device and
the complete way a present is given in Japan. A present
means a great deal here, and no matter how humble, the
noshi is always affixed to it.
Mochi is a favorite article of food at New Year's time, and
just as the New Englander makes up a lot of mince and
pumpkin pies for Thanksgiving and
Christmas so the Japanese prepare
mochi. It is made of a glutinous kind
of rice, which after proper boiling is
placed in a huge wooden mortar and
stirred vigorously with long. sticks. It
is a common sight at this season to
see the preparations going on in the ^^'
street. Figure 490 shows men stirring the dough. After this
it is dusted with rice flour and pounded with a large wooden
maUet. It is very sticky and the mallet often gets stuck in
the mixture. Hokusai has made a comical drawing of a man
who is endeavoring to draw his mallet out of the adher
ing mass. After it is properly
kneaded in this way, it is made
up into flattened round loaves.
Fig. 491 some of them two feet in diame
ter and resembling huge puddings; it is also rolled into thick
sheets (fig. 491). It is sold in many shops and is much liked
by the Japanese. It is very sticky to eat, and reminds one
of heavy bread, but it is nice when toasted in thin sheets with
burned or browned meal and a Uttle sugar sprinkled on it.

96

JAPAN DAY BY DAY

a common way of eating it. Figure 492 shows one form of
offering. This is a little bamboo table, or stand with two big
loaves of mochi on the lower shelf; wreaths of rice straw, ever
green leaves, white paper cut into
strips, and a few fern leaves surround
them At this time of the year (January)
every boy in the city has a kite, and
the wind being favorable the air is
literally full of kites of all sizes,
shapes, and colors. Some of them are
of so large a size that a small rope is
necessary to fly them with. Some
have large dragons painted on them
in bright colors. These may be eight
feet square, with eyes made like tambourines hung in circu
lar frames, so that as the wind revolves them, the eye being
painted black on one side and covered with silver leaf on
the other, the monster appears to be winking at you. I saw
a most frantic scattering of a flock of hens as a kite of hide
ous aspect darted down among them. Some of the kites are
in the shape of a boy with long sleeves fluttering in the
wind; others like birds with outstretched wing^; some in the
form of centipedes, fans, and other quaint designs. The kite,
though fraU-looking, darts with great force to the ground,
and is dragged over it without injury. The frame of the kite
is made of light strips of bamboo bent slightly backward by
strings running across from the ends of the transverse pieces
of the framework; the paper, of that tough kind peculiar to

Fig. 492

KITE-FLYING 97
Japan, is thus stretched like a drum-head and is convex in
front. The kites have aU manners of flying. Some without
the long taU, or bob, are as steady in the air as are others
with two exceedingly long tafls hung from the lower corners
of the kite. It is a pretty sight to see these two long bobs
hanging parallel, and as the kite sways back and forth the
graceful curves of the bobs run along in perfect unison. Some
kites dart back and forth in vigorous fashion; others are
made to fly directly
overhead in strong
winds, and the string *^
is almost vertical. The
boys not only enjoy
the mere flight of the Fig. 493
kite, but often fight
them; and, I may add, it is the only way I ever saw boys
fight among themselves. At the kite shop can be bought a
simple device of wood which is strung upon the kite string;
in a deep notch of this device is a sharp blade as shown
in figure 493. By manoeuvring the kite the string can be
brought over the string of an opponent, and by dragging it
along, the string sUdes into the notch and is cut. Boys in
different blocks and out of sight of one another may engage
in these contests. It was a new thing to me to see the
adroit way in which a boy would make his kite go sideways
ahnost at right angles to another kite flying by its side. The
kites often have attached to them a " singer " consisting of
a thin ribbon of whalebone kept taut by a bamboo bow.
This is secured to the top of the kite and the wind vibrates

Fig. 494

98 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
the whalebone ribbon, producing a loud, humming sound
which reminds one of a planing machine or a sawmill. It is
a great annoyance at times when writing to have this inces
sant hum directly over your house with the boy flying the
kite a thousand feet
away. Besides this seo-
lian-harp-like device I
have seen a cord simply stretched across the bow-like piece,
to which was attached short flaps of paper, and these would
flutter so rapidly in the wind as to make a peculiar
humming sound different from the whalebone, or
sometimes bamboo, ribbon. Figure 494 is a sketch
of the musical contrivance attached to the top of
the kite.
A curious device to indicate the months which
have thirty-one days and those which have thirty
or a less number of days is shown in figure 495.
The object consisted of an irregular piece of wood
charred brown, the characters painted in white.
The first column is headed with the character for
"smaU," or "little," and then follow the numbers,
2, 4, 6, 9, and 11, these months having thirty days
or less; the second column with the months con
taining thirty-one days is headed by the character
for "great." The mushrooms at the bottom were
made out of paper slightly browned by heat, look
ing precisely like the real objects, and held in a
little straw device as they are seen in the markets.
daughter paid one and one half cents for it.

Fig. 495

My

THE THEATRE 99
We went to the theatre the other day at twelve o'clock
noon, carrying our lunch with us, and never left the place tUl
half-past eleven at night. The actors, the scenery, the music,
and the audience held the attention at every moment, and
intermissions of ten or fifteen minutes left one time to enjoy
the family gatherings in their two-mat bins, servants from
outside tea-houses bringing in attractive-looking lunches.
The concealed orchestra had two drums of widely different
pitch, one not unlike an ordinary drum, the other sounding
like a person suddenly choking. The illusion of distance on
the stage was ingeniously accomplished by making the build
ings and sides of the stage taper to the rear as in exaggerated
perspective; the stage was not over fifty feet in depth, but
by this method it looked ten times as deep. In one scene a
ronin is leaving the gate of his yashiki uttering sad words of
regret and waving his hand. Suddenly the gate appears more
distant, and again it apparently recedes. The illusion is con
veyed that the man is fast leaving it. The effect is produced
by a big gate painted on thin board which drops forward dis
closing a smaller gate painted precisely like the first and this
in turn drops, disclosing another gate still smaller. The
classical plays of the Japanese enable one to get an idea of
court dress and, in a slight way, perhaps, of court etiquette
and ceremony. Figure 496 shows hasty sketches of an actor
in various attitudes, and is interesting as illustrating the
old costumes. To see a two-sworded dignitary walking across
the stage in nether garments four feet too long, trailing back
under his feet as he walked, was very odd.
An interesting sight it was to see throngs of beautifully

100 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
dressed children leave the audience and rush to the stage as
the curtain came down and find their way behind the cur
tain on each side to watch
the stage carpenter at work
erecting new scenery. When
the wooden blocks clacked
together as a signal for the
curtain to be raised, the chfldren swarmed
out again and hurried to their respective
bins in the audience. What greater evidence
could be offered to iUustrate the universal
good behavior of the Japanese boy and girl !
Of course such an invasion of children on
our stage would not be permitted for a
moment; but think of the tacks spilled, paint
upset, and other deviltries which would instantly develop
if our sweet children were allowed behind the curtain! In
Japan, however, the chfldren are allowed to go everywhere
and see everything because they never seem to abuse the
privflege.^ Early in December the fire companies of the city come to
gether for a review. The fire bells ring and the companies
gather on a large square where aU kinds of acrobatic feats take
place. They climb ladders, have races, and perform a number
of feats, and appear very skillful, but in actual service, while
showing the greatest bravery, they do not impress the for-
' And the way these same children become brave fighting soldiers as shown in the
Formosan, Chinese, and Russian wars, proves that courtesy, gentle ways, and good
manners are not disassociated with consummate bravery and endurance on the
battle-field.

Fig. 496

SNOW IN TOKYO 101
eigner as very efficient. Their problems, however, are so dif
ferent from those of our firemen that it may be hardly fair to
pass judgment. The Japanese firemen are called upon to de
stroy buildings in the path of a conflagration and to wet down
the men who are thus engaged, and to do all this work with
the greatest possible dispatch.
Occasional snowstorms have occurred this winter, but the
jinrikisha men do not seem to mind the snow and run in it
barefooted, and when standing the steam is seen rising from
their bare feet. Curiously enough, the houses appear as open
as in the summer. The children are barelegged just as in the
summer, and play in the snow with
out minding the cold. After a snow- i\
storm the people turn out with  j^-S  7

scoops, boards, and a peculiar kind ~ ^^^ ^^r^
of wooden shovel and clear the en
tire street in front of their respective shops and houses, the
snow being put into the gutter which runs along the side of
the street and which is usually covered with boards. Figure
497 is an extemporized snow shovel made out of a board
with a loop of rope near the end for a handle. The snow being
moist, the children roll big balls of it as do our children at
home, and have contests as to which one will make the big
gest baU, in the following manner : a small stick is tied cross-
ways to the end of a string, and this is swung back and forth
in the damp snow to see how big an accumulation can be
made before the snow drops off of its own weight.
The construction of ladders is interesting. The sides are
made of stout bamboo, and from the centre to the ends the

102 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
bamboo is bent outward, thus giving a wider base upon which
it rests and a flare at the top (fig. 498). By this method
the ladder is greatly strengthened. The slats are
firmly tied to the supports, while with us holes
are bored in the sides of the ladder which naturally
weakens it.
In a recent visit to the Omori shell mounds I
discovered a large fragment of a human tibia later
ally flattened with an index of 60, as indicated in
Broca's platycnemic tibia ; the index of the tibia of
a modern Japanese is 76, as is ours. This suggests
a considerable antiquity to the deposit.
I was told by one of my students that in former
times, if any person fell into the castle moat and
was drowned, it was not allowable for any one to
recover the body, as the depth of the water might be
discovered, and this was kept a secret. This state
ment has not been verified, but may be true, though I doubt it.
For several weeks I have taken my lunch at the laboratory
a la japonaise. Trying it once I found that the lunch was

Fig. 499

DWARF PLUM TREES 103
good, and though I have to eat it on the corner of a big table
laden with snakes, worms, and skulls, I find my appetite is
not affected by the surroundings. The wooden bucket con
tains boiled rice (fig. 499) and the wooden shovel is to scoop it
out with. There is also a large piece of broiled fish, — horse
mackerel, — tender and delicious; another dish contains a
slice of salted ginger, radish, and a bunch of green leaves of
something. Having acquired
the use of the chopsticks, I
shall recommend them to the
world as the most simple and
economical device ever in
vented by man.
One marvels at the dwarf
plum trees that one sees at
this season (January). You
are invited to a garden to
see in various sizes of flower
pots what appear to be dead
stumps, literally black chunks
of wood without the sign of
a bud or sprout; then weeks
after you again visit the gar
den and find that these same black stumps have produced
long, delicate twigs bearing the most beautiful blossoms with
out the sign of a green leaf. The contrast between these
exquisitely tinted blossoms, and the black and apparently
dead stumps from which they spring, leaves you amazed at the
skill of the gardener who can produce such anomaUes. The

Fig. 500

104

JAPAN DAY BY DAY

Fig. 501

one shown in figure 500 was forty years old. It is trained to
grow in this way. It is kept under cover where it is warm
^ and the blossoms appear much ear
lier than on the out-of-door trees.
Pine trees are also trained to leaf out
from thick logs of pine, as shown in
figure 501, though the usual form of
'</''' W dwarf pine is a veritable tree, branches
and all, three feet high and a hun
dred years old.
February 28, the plum trees are in
full blossom. The flowers are usually
of a deep pink or rose color and emit a delicious fragrance.
Peddlers wander from house to house carrying twigs and
branches of plum blossoms for sale.
It is curious how slowly and unconsciously one grows to the
appreciation of the quaint and odd in Japanese art hand-work.
Of course the artist instantly sees the beauty of it, and no one
could fail to admire the beautiful work of the sword-guards and
other objects. But when one sees their pottery, for example,
irregular in shape, purposely dented
in, with sketchy designs, so unlike
any pottery an Occidental is accus
tomed to, he wonders what there is
to admire about the work. Let him
begin to collect, however, and if he
is a natural-born collector he will be
come wfld over the tea-jars and other forms of pottery. I
have started a little coUection and have lately added two

Fig. 502

COLLECTING BRIG k BRAG 105
pieces (figs. 502 and 503). One is a vessel for sauce. The pot
tery is Akatsu, Oribe; the other a Satsuma teapot. They are
at least one hundred and fifty years old, perhaps older. They
are really fascinating to handle, and
the fun of finding such nuggets in the
simplest little bric-a-brac shops is only
appreciated by those imbued with the
collectors' spirit. The coUector of bric-
a-brac finds Japan a veritable para
dise, for wherever he goes he finds
second-hand shops, known as furui
doguya, displaying old objects of every
description: pottery, metal and lacquer work, basketry,
swords and sword furniture, pictures, etc. In the smaUest
villages through which one rides one finds some shop of this
description with a modest assortment of old things. One
cannot help recalUng the fact that in our country the second
hand shops in our towns are limited to the sale of second
hand furniture, second-hand books, and second-hand cloth
ing, and only a few of the larger cities will have shops
containing bric-a-brac, etc. Furthermore, it may be ob
served that in the Japanese shop the objects with few ex
ceptions are native products, the exceptions being from China
and Korea, while in our country the objects are invariably
from Europe or Asia, Dutch delft, Italian majolica, German
ironwork, etc. It is a significant fact that one looks in vain
for any art object worth preserving from our own country.^
1 This will not always be so, for within thirty years the arts and crafts movement
and the numerous kilns throughout the country have been producing artistic pottery,
and the future bric-^-brac shops will have artistic objects "made in America."

106 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
I have lately become acquainted with a celebrated anti
quarian, Ninagawa Noritani, and have visited him at his
house. He is the author of a book on the various kinds of pot
tery in Japan, iUustrated by lithographic plates. These plates,
though rather roughly done and colored by hand, are far more
characteristic of the pottery than the most perfect chromolith
ographs one sees in French and English publications on similar
subjects. The objects figured in the first five parts were sold
to some European before I
came to Japan, but I am
trying to get representative
pieces similar to those al
ready figured, and Ninagawa
will identify them for me. If
I can only get the same kind
of pottery he describes and
figures, it wiU be nearly as
good as the original collection
from which the figures' were
made. Through Ninagawa, I have
learned many interesting
things about collectors and
collections. It was interesting to find that for hundreds of
years these people have had their collections and crazes for
collecting. He said that the Japanese have never specialized
so much in their collecting as foreigners, and, I judge from
what I have learned, were never so systematic or scientific
and generally not so curious nor so exact as to the age and

Fig. 504

JAPANESE COLLECTORS 107
locaUty of the objects. Among Ninagawa's friends he spe
cified the following as the kinds of objects they coUected:
pottery, porcelain, coins, swords, kakemono (pictures), pieces
of brocade, stone implements, and roofing tfles. The collec
tions of brocade are mounted in books like postage stamps,
the pieces three or four inches square; he had seen speci
mens four or five hundred
years old. Bits from the
robes of famous men were
highly esteemed. The tiles

Fig. 505

Fig. 506

are considered very interesting objects; he had seen roofing
tiles a thousand years old. He did not know of any one col
lecting armor. A few collect shells, corals, and the like. There
are many books treating of all the kinds of objects above
mentioned. Dr. Ito, the famous botanist, whom I have al
ready mentioned in the early pages of the journal, has a large
collection of plants.
Figure 504 shows a Uttle girl of the higher class in warm

108

JAPAN DAY BY DAY

winter garments. The method of dressing the hair from in
fancy to old age is a source of interest and wonderment to a
foreigner. How a child can manage to preserve her elaborate
coiffure for an hour, not to say three days, is past compre
hension. An opportunity occurred to sketch various types of
hair-dressing. Mrs. T. and her daughter, and little Miss I,
made a caU on the family,
and they amiably submitted
to my making a sketch of
their coiffure which had been

Fig. 507

Fig. 508

made expressly for the visit and was consequently in the
most perfect state. There are twenty to thirty ways of
doing up each one of these types, and though very likely we
should observe no difference the Japanese detect it at once.
It is said that the first thing young ladies do when they meet
is to discuss these various styles. The very method of mak
ing these graceful bows and knots necessitates the employ
ment of a hair-dresser, and women barbers go from house to
house to perform this service, which is inexpensive. The

WOMEN'S HAIR-DRESSING 109
country people do their own hair or perform reciprocal ser
vices. For a hair-dressing a vegetable wax preparation is
used, and the hair has quite a polish when properly dressed.
A form made of stiff black crape is used which keeps the
graceful loops of the bow rigidly in shape. Figures 505 and
506 show the side and back views of Mrs. K. In the back
view the hair forms a sharp keel which is kept in place by a
whalebone, or iron clip. Figure 507 is of Mrs. T.; a lacquer
comb stands transversely on
the slender queue turned back
from the front. Figure 508 is
the back view of figure 507;
the square-ended object pass
ing through the bow is a stone,
probably jade, after Chinese
style. Figure 509 is of the
daughter of Mrs. T. Figures
510 and 511 are of Miss I.,
who is about twelve years old.
In these a flower hairpin is shown; red crape is fastened in
side the loops. It is a very common form for girls of that
age. In the street one sees the most poorly dressed girls with
their hair beautifully arranged; even Uttle children, four or
five years old, will often show that more care is taken with
their hair than with their dress, which may even be ragged.
A tousled head is not a common sight. In these various
styles of hair-dressing a Japanese recognizes different ranks
of people: the handmaid (fig. 512), the country girl, the
young lady, and certain forms that are considered very

Fig. 509

110 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
"dressy"; and finally, the very highest classes and royalty;
while entirely different forms may be seen in pictures and
possibly on the stage.
I visited a Japanese newspaper office in order to see how the
composition room was arranged. I had expected to see an
immense room, knowing the number of characters used to set
up a piece of printed matter,
and was astonished to find a
room not over thirty feet
square. The number of Chi
nese characters possessed by

Fig. 510

Fig. 511

the office may be counted by thousands. The number of
different characters in common use for the newspaper is
twelve or thirteen hundred, and there are many hundred
more which are rarely used. Besides these there are the type
for the Japanese alphabet of forty-eight phonetic signs, and
these are often set up beside the Chinese character to spell
out the Japanese word in case the reader may not know the
meaning of the Chinese character.

TYPES AND TYPE-SETTING 111
Figure 513 represents a portion of a Japanese newspaper,
showing the use of the Japanese alphabet. The reader wiU

Fig. 512

observe the simple letters running alongside the vertical col

umns of Chinese type. The cases are
different from those of our printers;
the boxes are two feet long and eight
inches in height divided by vertical
partitions. There are sixty-six par
titions in each box and the width of
the space between the partitions is
the width of the type. The types are
placed in the partitions with their
faces out, so that the compositor may
see at a glance the character he
wants. A description of the Chinese
character is necessary here, but one
must refer to a student of Chinese to
understand the subject. It may be

•e h^
•e J«:|

ft

¦c

ir r»
fi ^
L HI
B
O
+ A

¦^i < mi
ffl« < *iZ
^ X mi
0 O :^2

¦c *•

m|0 as
I- A W*
\ n *>'
Jg« «» 0
0 m*>^

5Jg*l

Fig. 513

¦*0

A*0 ^
112

JAPAN DAY BY DAY

said, however, that the Chinese character is composite; that is,
in the character there is a radical which classifies it in a way.
Thus, every character referring to money, such words as buy,
sell, debt, loan, dicker, etc., wfll have the money radical in it;
words referring to feeling, such as passion, hate, love, etc., wUl
have the heart radical in it; and so on; and the characters are

Fig. 514
arranged in these partitions by their radicals. It is a queer
sight to see a compositor running from one part of the room to
another, holding his "stick" and manuscript in his left hand
and with his right hand picking out the character he wants;
so different from our printing-oflTice where a man stands at his
case with aU the letters, a few figures, and punctuation marks
in front of him, and never moves from the spot. Here the
Japanese compositors, eight of them, are racing back and forth
across the room for the proper character. Dressed in dark blue
as they were, the appearance of the room reminded one of an

Fig. 516

114 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
ant-hill with the black ants ceaselessly passing each other to
and fro. Figure 514 represents the composing-room showing
the arrangement of the cases, but there were many more men
than are represented in the sketch. Figure 515 shows the com
positor setting type. The man distributing type (fig. 516) sits

Fig. 517
at a table and with a pair of forceps picks out those characters
of the same kind and then returns them to their proper posi
tion in one of the many cases.
Figure 517 represents a cut from a daily illustrated news
paper. The drawing is full of action. The subscription price
of the paper is twenty cents a month. Figure 518 is a repro
duction of a page proof of some book. When the compositor
cannot make out the character in the manuscript, he turns the
character upside down, and it is printed from the bottom, and
the proof-reader, with red brush, marks the proper character
in the margin. The characters are set up without spaces,
which are put in afterwards. In Japanese manuscripts, if a

PROOF-READING 115
character is rubbed out and afterwards it is desired to retain
it, the word iki, which means "alive," is written in katakana.
It is curious that in a printing-office they speak of "live" and
"dead matter" as with us. In viewing this intricate system

a A ^ f
t V 68 HI

* * ."
K K fii

»- «ffi K *

Fig. 518
of printing it would seem that ultimately the Japanese must
establish a phonetic system. In this way only can they use the
modern type-setting machine. The Chinese character lan
guage is a burden to them, and if, at this moment, they could
aU speak English it would add greatly to their development

116 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
along our lines. Those who learn to write English prefer it to
their own method. They all say it is much more exact, and
the Uttle boys who go to the preparatory school for the Uni
versity, where they study English, preferably write to one
another in English because they can do it more easily. A dear
little boy friend of mine always writes to his brother in Eng
lish, and his brother, who is thirteen years old, is studying

Fig. 519
English and at the same time is studying German in a foreign
language school, so that he may enter the Medical School
which is conducted in German. He comes to my house every
Sunday, and already speaks English very well.
A visit to Mitsui's famous ^flk store is weU worth making,
for it is the largest dry-goods store in the city and an hnmense
business is done. To see a big shop without counters or seats
is curious. The clerks and salesmen sit in the usual way on

A FAMOUS SILK STORE 117
the straw matting, the customers likewise. Entering from the
street the customer steps from his sandals on to the raised
floor, the sandals being left behind. A cup of tea is imme
diately served on a tray to every one, whether a purchase is
made or not. Figure 519 gives a faint idea of the appear
ance of this store. To the right is the street and to the left
the clerks have access to the huge fireproof buildings from
which the goods are brought as wanted. All the attendants

Fig. 520

had their hair dressed in true Japanese style, and running
about were little boys, probably cash boys, who at times
emitted a curious, prolonged call. The extreme slowness,
gravity, and politeness the attendants showed in all their
movements contrasted strangely with the crowds and ac
tivity in simUar places at home. At the farther end of the
store was an artistic device of copper. This was the water-
boiler, or heater for tea. A man was in constant attendance

118 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
making tea and pouring it into cups, and little boys were
coming with trays to carry the tea to the customers (fig. 520).
Hibachis containing coals of fire were conveniently placed
for the smokers, both men and women, though the customers
were mostly women. The place was a very interesting sight.
AU the massive beams above and the woodwork were in natu
ral wood. The brilliant colored silks, brocades, and crape, and
the handsomely dressed ladies and chUdren with flowered
hairpins, added greatly to the beauty of the scene. In my

^yy \^ \^ — ^^

Fig. 521

sketch of the store there should be many more people, but
there was no time to make an elaborate drawing. Almost
the first object one notices is the unusually large and hand
some shrine (fig. 521) hanging from the ceiUng, made in the
form of a Shinto temple. Every house and every shop has a
shrine of some kind exposed in this way before which the
inmates pray in the morning. A light, or several lights, are
placed in the shrine at night. It was odd to see this sanctu
ary hanging up in a large store and the proprietors and all

NEW STYLE OF HAIR-DRESSING 119
hands praying before it in the morning, whether customers
are present or not. I cannot imagine a religious shrine in our
large stores with like devotion shown by the proprietors.
Figure 522 represents the latest style of doing up the hair.
My daughter noticed the braid, which is entirely new to the
Japanese in hair-dress
ing. It is adopted from
the foreigners, particu
larly from the children
with their long braids
behind. The face has
no resemblance to the
pretty woman I had for
a subject. I think it
is annoying to them to
have the face sketched; at all events, I never attempt it,
but put the features in afterwards.
Many of the firemen of the city are house-builders and
carpenters, and after extinguishing a fire they hang up the
names of those who have helped in the matter, either fire
company or individual firemen; then they claim a present
from the owners of the building, or the chance of getting
the job of rebuilding. Figure 523 is a sketch of a fire-ruined
house showing the labels suspended from bamboo poles.
In the bric-a-brac shops, of which there are a great many,
one often notices among the lacquers, inlaid work, basketry,
and the like, a pottery jar (fig. 524) enclosed in a faded bro
cade bag (fig. 525). The jar has an ivory cover, and is often
exceedingly plain in form and appearance. You are amazed

Fig. 522

120

JAPAN DAY BY DAY

Fig. 523

at the prices asked for some of these jars until you learn that
they are among the oldest of pottery. These are known as
chair e, and are made
to hold powdered tea
for a certain form of
tea-drinking. They are
kept in boxes (fig. 526)
on the covers of which
the names of the object
and potter are written.
There are many that
are comparatively new
and low-priced. It re
quires some time to get
familiar with even the common kinds, but the more one
studies them the more attractive they appear.
The Japanese show their artistic ingenuity
in tying a great variety of knots to which they
give separate names.
Many of these knots
are ornamental. They
are used in tying up
presents, bags, scroUs,
dresses, and for other purposes. The little
pottery jars for holding powdered tea
are kept in brocade bags. I learned to
tie the knot which closes the mouth of
the bag and always awakened the in
terest and sympathy of the dealer when, having replaced the

V^^S^^c^r

Fig. 524

Fig. 525

MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS 121
tea-jar in its bag, I carefully tied the proper knot. I greatly
enhanced my opportunities among the dealers of pottery by
observing these simple courtesies.
The other/ evening we were invited to dinner by Dr. Ben-
jamin Smith Lyman, who has made a geological survey of
Yezo for the Government.
He lives in a Japanese house
filled with beautiful screens,
bronzes, porcelains, and the
Uke. There were a nunnber
of guests present, and we
were entertained by Japanese
dancing and music, consist
ing of six koto, or harp, play
ers, and a biwa player. The
biwa is almost out of date,
and there are but two or
three good players left in Ja
pan, the one we had being
one of the great players. Fig
ure 527 is a sketch of this player who was blind. He strikes
the strings with a broad ivory plectrum. The samisen players
use a device that is similar, but not so wide. The koto players,
of whom there were six, men and women, three of whom were
bUnd, were arranged as in figure 528. Their music, which is
extremely interesting and pleasing, was indescribable, all
playing in unison with a peculiar rhythm, but with no break
or pause. Figure 529 represents three playing together. There
was on the finger a horn device like an enlarged finger nail.

Fig. 526

122 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
The various musical instruments figured have all been derived
from China originally, coming through Korea. The group
of dancing children we had
seen before at a tea-house some
months ago, and when we came
into another room from dinner
they looked surprised and de
lighted and rushed to us, and
we were pleased to see them.
Their ages were three, four, five,
and six. There were two at
tendants. Figure 530 gives an
idea of them. The samisen
player is shown in figure 531.
The boys' dress, with its obi and long sleeves, resembles a
girl's dress, and it takes some time to distinguish the sexes,
though, of course, the hair instantly betrays the difference.
The hakama is a kind of divided skirt with a stiffened appen-

FiG. 527

Fig. 528

dage behind like a short inverted unspUt coat tail, from the
edges of which a band extends and is tied in front. This

BOYS' DRESS

123

only the samurai class was permitted to wear, but, curiously
enough, school-girls could wear this garment if they were the

Fig. 529
daughters of samurai, and when wearing it to school, as they
sometimes do, it is indeed hard to distinguish them from boys.
It is in every way a graceful and an easy garment to wear.
Figure 532 represents a boy fourteen years old wearing the
hakama. The other night I ran and walked nearly three miles to a
fire on the outskirts of Tokyo toward the west and arrived
there in time to see the
last house catch fire and
burn up. It was a re
markable and brilUant
sight. The fire burned a
row of large houses with
heavy thatched roofs of
straw, and as the wind Fig. 530
was blowing a gale great
masses of the thatched roof floated away in the air, resem
bling clouds of golden threads, and when the roof finally fell

124 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
in the shower of sparks that drifted away was like a storm
of golden snow. It was amazing to see how rapidly the houses
melted away as soon as the fire got inside. I again witnessed
the bravery and heat endurance of the firemen. At a dis
tance of at least three hundred feet from one building the
heat was so intense
that it was impossi
ble to look at the fire
except through the
openings between my
fingers; yet the fire
men were within ten
feet of the blaze, and
only retreated when
their clothing was ac
tually in flames, and
even this condition
they did not seem to
notice until streams
of water were directed
on them. When I
started to the fire, running through the dark streets, I asked
a man where the fire was, and my Japanese was promptly
understood, for he answered "Sukoshi mate" (Wait a little).
I ran along with him untfl we came to a police station, and
there posted up outside was a notice stating the place of
the fire and what was burning, and this was certainly not
more than ten or fifteen minutes after the alarm. I observed
the same notice at other poUce stations which we passed.

Fig. 531

STREET-REPAIRING 125
Of course I could not read it, but the detafls were given to
me by the man whom I had encountered. On inquiry about
it the next day I heard
it was customary to
post a message on the
bulletin boards at all
poUce stations, and at
the earliest possible mo
ment, the position and
character of the fire.
One often notices the
city workmen repairing
the streets, but in this
work attending only to
the middle third of the
street. On inquiry it
was learned that the city
looks after the middle
third of the road, the abutters on either side taking care of
the other thirds. In a similar way we are compelled to clear
our sidewalk. It is amazing to see how honestly this work
is performed by aU, in contrast to the way our people often
neglect clearing the snow.
This morning (April 8) at five o'clock the fire-alarm beU
rang, and as there was a gale blowing I dressed immediately
and ran a distance of two miles, arriving too late to witness
the struggle of the firemen. There were, however, interesting
things to see. The extent of the conflagration showed how
rapidly it had spread, and the wooden buildings partly

Fig. 532

126 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
burned indicated that the work of the firemen was not so
trivial as foreigners supposed it to be; at least to check the
fire in a high gale must have required great effort and skiU.

Fig. 533
The fact is that their hoUses are so frail that as soon as a fire
starts it spreads with the greatest rapidity, and the main
work of the firemen, aided by citizens, is in denuding a house
of everything that can be stripped from it : partition-screens,
floor mats, and the cefling, which is of thin cedar board. It
— ^.,_ seems ridiculous to see
them shoveling off the
thick roofing tiles, the
only fireproof covering
the house has; but this
is to enable them to
tear off the roofing
boards, and one ob
serves that the fire then
does not spring from
rafter to rafter. The more one studies the subject the more
one realizes that the first impressions of the fireman's work
are wrong, and a respect for his skfll rapidly increases. I

Fig. 534

FIRE-FIGHTING 127
saw for the first time a new type of fire engine belonging to
the police department mounted on a two-wheeled cart with
hose attached and coiled on the engine. It draws water and
plays a good stream. The engine is taken from the cart and
manned by six or seven men. It is a recent adaptation from
a foreign model. Figure 533 represents one going to a fire.

^5^1:^3^25:^)^

and as the firemen run along the streets they howl like cats.
Figure 534 represents firemen hanging out the names of en
gine companies who saved the building as it stands.
Shortly after this fire another one occurred and as the wind
was blowing with violence I ran to it. I made another at
tempt at a sketch, but with such a moving crowd of people
jostling each other and me, and with other interruptions, a
poor drawing was made (fig. 535). The quiet way in which
the sufferers of these calamities take their misfortunes is in
teresting; not a face that is not amiable and smiling. It is
curious to see women cry at the theatres and yet be so stoical

128 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
at the complete destruction of their dweUings in a conflagra
tion. With their belongings they erect a sort of wall made
out of partition-Screens, a bureau, and mats standing up, and
behind these the family are gathered; fire is in the hibachi
and water is being warmed for tea, and a little bonfire en
ables them to broil a fish or to make a little soup, and in the
open air, which is not cold except in winter, they seem just
as happy as ever.

CHAPTER XVI
TO NAGASAKI AND KAGOSHIMA
For some time I have been getting dredges, jars, and
other things together for a trip south. The University allows
me to go earlier than the summer vacation and will pay all
expenses of the expedition. We are to dredge in Kagoshima
Gulf, Nagasaki, and Kobe, and as the fauna is semi-tropical
much new material will be obtained for the University
Museum. We left Yokohama for Kobe on May 9, 1879.
The discomforts of the voyage in a rough sea and a head wind
may be left unchronicled. We were in sight of land during the
whole trip, though I saw little of it. Leaving on Wednesday
night we reached Kobe at three o'clock Friday afternoon.
As soon as the steps were lowered, I landed in a little boat
and rushed to a hotel for something to eat, and after that I
took a stroll about the town. The town is backed by high hills ;
the streets are rather narrow, and the shops differ in no re
spect from those of Tokyo. The women seemed to dress their
hair a little differently from those farther north, but I could
carry away no idea of its arrangement and I was too tired
to attempt a sketch. The chUdren are certainly much pret
tier than the Tokyo children ; a more refined cut of features,
a clearer olive complexion. They all bang their hair in the
most pronounced style, and this is an old Japanese custom
and not adopted from the foreigner. The jinrikishas were
a little more clumsy-looking than those in Tokyo, and the

130

JAPAN DAY BY DAY

Fig. 536

men seemed stouter and better-looking. The lantern is hung
at the base of the shaft and not carried in the hand as in the
north. A few beggars were seen, but they are not insistent;
a mild type, so to speak. The drays in the streets have two
solid wheels and are dragged by long
ropes, one or two men balancing the
load behind. I did not hear a man
grunt or sing in pulling the loads, as
they do so energetically in Yokohama.
The ox-teams are odd-looking affairs;
one wheel in front and two wheels
behind, and the ox has a saddle to
which the shafts are attached. It seems strange in a dis
tance of three hundred miles to see so many differences in
habits and customs.
I managed to run behind a jinrikisha and get the style of
hair of a grown woman; the bows are much smaller than in
Tokyo and are flattened against the head (fig. 536). The
dressing of the children's hair is mark
edly different from the style in To
kyo. Figure 537 shows the style for
little girls eight to ten years old.
These were hastily sketched on the
street, a difficult matter as you walk
along, because they watch you so per
sistently that you get no chance, and if they find that they
are the subject of the sketch, instead of some object down
the street, they hastily run away.
At Kobe the hotel stands near the water, and from my

Fig. 537

KOBE 131
window I managed to get a sketch of a Japanese junk un
loading (fig. 538). These vessels wiU rapidly disappear, as
the Japanese are now building after foreign models. A fifteen-
minute walk from the hotel brought me to a glen remark
able for its beautiful cascades, reminding one of certain spots
in the White Mountains. It was impossible to sketch the

Fig. 538

scenery, but what impressed me was the exquisite rustic
bridges, the charming little tea-houses perched upon the
edges of precipitous points, and the gayly dressed girls invit
ing you to a cup of tea.
My party consisted of my assistant, Mr. Tanada, the ser
vant also, and Professor Yatabe's servant, Tomi, who is very
skillful in collecting plants and neatly pressing them. My
servant is as good in collecting shells, and Mr. Tanada looks
after everything and acts as interpreter and translator be
sides being a good collector. On our way back from the falls

132 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
we coUected a number of shells, among them a species of Pupa,
the first I have seen in Japan, which reminds me of a Philip
pine species. As jve entered Kobe again by an obscure street,
the poorest quarter, we passed a row of houses, and by look
ing through the gloom of these dark hovels I could see the
little sunlit gardens beyond, indicating that even among the
poorest classes a taste for such things is universal.

Fig. 539
In the afternoon we went aboard the steamer bound for
Nagasaki. From the deck I made a hasty sketch of Kobe
(fig. 539) with the hills back of the town. These hills are said
to be not over nine hundred feet high, but the captain of the
steamer thought they were much higher. The sail was very
beautiful, but we were to pass through the Inland Sea at
night, and this is considered one of the most beautiful sails
in the world. In the night I went on deck at a time when the
steamer was passing by a great number of Japanese fishing
boats. The fishermen blew their shell horns as the fishermen
at home blow their tin horns; having no lights they burned
shavings of wood which made fitful glares here and there over

THE STRAITS OF SHIMONOSEKI 133
the water. The darkness was impenetrable, and the blasts
of the horns and the flashes of light kept up till the steamer
was abreast of the boats, when one after the other the lights
went out and the noise ceased. So in front was this curious
racket of many horns with lights flaring here and there, while
astern not a sound was heard, nor a light seen. It was as if
the steamer had engulfed them all. The approach of our
steamer must have been alarming to the fishermen, with the
dash of the paddle wheels heard afar off and the danger of
collision approaching nearer and nearer. As it dashed by
with whistle blowing, with the splash of the wheels, with the
steam, the smoke, the lights, and the tremendous waves
marching in echelon from the bow, and the thoughts of the
dire results of a collision with such a monster, — the very
passing of it was an alarming experience.
The next morning it rained hard and everything was ob
scured. At two o'clock in the afternoon we passed through
the Straits of Shunonoseki, and the thought of the great
wrong inflicted on these people by the four great nations in
the bombardment of the forts and town and the subsequent
robbery of $3,000,000 exacted as an indemnity made me
ashamed of the so-called civilized races. ^ Figure 540 is a
hasty sketch of the town of Shimonoseki. It rained so hard
and was so thick during our short stop in the Straits that I
could get only hasty outlines looking toward the Inland Sea
(fig. 541).
At seven o'clock in the evening we started again and
' Years after, the United States alone returned its portion of the indemnity, as
an act of justice which the Japanese fully appreciated.

134 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
passed out of the Straits and into the ocean once more.
Densely foggy and with some sea on, we were to sail all night
along a coast studded with rocks and islands. Among the

_i_ii.i.

Fig. 540
passengers was a Catholic bishop with whom I had an inter
esting talk. He was a Franciscan priest when he came from
Paris nineteen years ago; since then he has been made a
bishop and had attended the great encyclical councU at
Rome. He had a fine-looking head and great, sympathetic
eyes. I asked him how many Catholic converts there were
in Japan after his nineteen years' work with so many other
priests laboring in the same field, and he thought there might
be 20,000. Reducing this number a few thousand on account

of his enthusiasm, I tried to compute how long it would take
to convert the 33,000,000, and on the whole how much better
the efforts of conversion would be among the sinners of his

MISSIONARIES 135
own people in whose language he could appeal, and to those
who may have remembered a mother's prayer. Moreover, in
this way the manners and behavior of foreigners who came
in contact with the Japanese might leave a more favorable
impression in the treaty ports. The bishop was a trained
scholar; he was fluent in English, French, and Japanese, and
of course Latin was like a mother's tongue to him. I asked
him the amount he received, and he said twenty dollars a
month. The priests are paid ten dollars a month. They get
contributions from France for their schools and Sisters of
Charity, and are very saving, even walking instead of riding.
It is true they are unmarried and have only themselves to
support. The Protestant missionaries get a thousand dollars
a year, and if married fifty dollars extra for every child born
to them. I told the bishop I was in irreconcilable antagonism
to his church, but he nevertheless smoked with me and did
not break into tears out of simple kindliness of heart at my
awful doom when he bade me good-bye. But what a wonder
and a force is this great Church, and how united and power
ful it is when a Catholic can find his Church with identical
service and belief in every part of the world! How much
more effective the Protestant churches would be if all the
various branches could unite in a few simple acts of devotion,
dropping aU the petty dogmas that now separate them!
Up early the next morning to see our approach to Nagasaki.
How strange were the headlands and the little islands off the
coast rising out of the water in grotesque shapes. The shores
are all mountainous, and most of the hills and mountains are
terraced to their very summits. Crops of corn, wheat, and

136 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
rice in horizontal patches are seen in every direction. The
novelty and beauty of it all are indescribable. Figure 542
is of one of the odd projections six
teen miles from Nagasaki; it is one
hundred and fifty feet high. A nar
row opening is seen through the cen-
— ~ tre and the fissure springing from it
extends to the top. That shown in
figure 543 is farther off, but is marked on the chart as two
hundred and fifty feet high.
For the first time I saw the flying fish. The first two were
flying near together, and I mistook them for birds trying
to fly out of the water, as ducks appear when they first rise.
I could hear their fins strike the wa
ter, or possibly it was the caudal fin ^ j ^''^W^
which was rapidly swinging back and ^^g^~543
forth and appeared like a peculiar
tail feather. I did not realize that they were flying fish until
they disappeared. The actual flight of the animal was un
questionable. Eagerly I watched for the next one, and for
tunately it arose directly under the bow and flew a distance
of at least five hundred feet, first in a straight line, then just
before dropping into the water cur\4ng gracefully. It flew
very rapidly at precisely the same height above the water,
about a foot and a half, and with the most exquisite grace.
The steadiness of the flight reminded me of that of a dragon
fly. I had no idea from the descriptions that it was such a
beautiful sight. -
We anchored in the harbor of Nagasaki at eight in the

NAGASAKI HARBOR 137
morning, and I hastened ashore to make an official call on the
Governor and to explain the object of our mission, which was
to dredge in the harbor and surrounding waters and to col
lect material for the museum of the Imperial University. To
facilitate our work it was necessary to secure a good room for
a laboratory. In less than an hour a large room was found for
us in the custom house. ^ We got our dredges, ropes, cans, bot
tles, and other material unpacked and I found time to visit a
local exhibition.
May 13. We did some great dredging. Our boat's crew con
sisted of two men and a woman who sculled as vigorously
as the men. Hereabouts the women work at all the things the
men do — lugging coal, loading vessels, and rowing boats. It
was difficult to concentrate on the work at hand, as my eyes
continually turned away from the dredging to the magnificent
views — the long bay hemmed in by high hills, green with
foUage from the water to the summits, and the little houses,
temples, shrines, hidden in the trees, with flights of stone steps
leading up to them. I was pulling up with my dredge tropical
shells, echinoderms, crustaceans, and forms unfamiliar to me,
yet it was hard to turn away from the contemplation of such
beautiful vistas to bury my head in the mud of the dredge.
In the afternoon we went down the harbor shore collecting
at low tide, turning over large stones and getting many inter
esting species of shells. We had a boat's crew of three men,
who joined in our efforts as if they had always been collectors.
' I mention this incident to show the prompt and businesslike way of the Japa
nese official, for everywhere I have had the same experience.

138 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
No one who is not a coUector can realize the delight of pick
ing up rare tropical shells of species entirely new to him. We
worked till dark and came back with a strong wind astern.
To-morrow we are to have a larger boat with four men to scull
and are to go down the harbor several miles.
Let me record here briefly that Nagasaki has narrow streets,
most of them paved with long rectangular stones over which
jinrikisha wheels roll very smoothly. The oxen have long
strings of bells hanging down on their flanks, and as they walk
along the sound reminds one of the jingling sleighbells of New
England; ten times louder, however. The people of Nagasaki
by their long association with foreigners are not so polite as are
the inhabitants farther north. They are not rude, but there is
no "thank you," and but little bowing, and when I thank
them in a shop for showing me anything they look astonished
as if they had never been treated civilly by a foreigner. The
little experience I have had here shows me that the foreigners
are sharp and severe with their Japanese servants, speaking
sternly to them and scolding them for the slightest fault. The
jinrikishas are of a new type, the covering
resembling an old-fashioned sunbonnet. The
boys caU after you "Horanda san!" "Hor-
anda san!" It means "Hollander Mr."
The children's heads are shaved in a pecu
liar style, as may be seen in figure 544. They
have the appearance of being influenced by
the Chinese.
Fig. 544 .^. r-.,- ^ r.
Figure 545 shows a farmer going to his
work carrying a plough on his shoulder. It is dragged by a

WALLS AND FENCES 139
single buU. The point is tipped with iron and the plough is
typical of the region, for there are many types of ploughs m
different parts of the country.
Figure 546 illustrates a
stone wall peculiar to Naga
saki. It is made of round
worn stones brought up from
the beach and laid in white
mortar, smoothed carefully,
and a coping of roofing tiles
completes it. The smooth
stones make a wall difficult
to climb. The kinds of walls
and fences in Japan are in
numerable and one could
make an interesting study of
fences alone.
May 17 we walked across the peninsula to Mogi, a distance
of seven miles, taking the dredge, ropes, seines, etc., on a
horse's back. The road was
paved the entire distance
with rocks and stones, smooth
enough in some places and in
other places very rough. We
first climbed a very steep
hiU. Most of the narrow path
was of rough stone steps, and
^^^- ^^^ it was interesting to see how
the horse walked up these steps, and we met buUs coming

Fig. 545

140 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
down. We overtook a bull with his cumbersome pack, a man
as usual leading the creature. The path was narrow and
muddy and the bull with his burden filled the entire path.

Fig. 547
At one place the bushes on the side were not so thick, and I
managed to get ahead by jumping rapidly and darting along
the gutter, but the suddenness of my approach and my big
white sun hat frightened the bull, and the creature began to
dance and kick, and the driver was scared out of his wits; he
jumped as if the mountain was falUng on him. It was amusing
to hear his amazed utterances
and protestations long after
we had passed him.
Most interesting features
are the terraces held up by
huge stone walls and marking the landscape everywhere.
These walls sustain level patches of land for cultivation, the
irrigation coming from a mountain stream and the water
running from terrace to terrace. The sides of these other
wise barren hills resembled a garden, a city park in fact.

Fig. 548

Fig. 549

THE VILLAGE OF MOGI 141
We at last reached the village of Mogi and found our way to
the principal inn. Figure 547 is a sketch of a few houses oppo
site the inn close to the
water's edge. The tide
being out we rushed to
the shore to collect.
Figure 548 shows a
stone-arched bridge on
the road to Mogi. In
the village the road is
bordered by a high stone
wall, and as I foUowed
along this wall to find
an open space to the shore, I passed through a school yard
where the boys were out at recess and were all flying kites
from the wall. They all looked at me intently, and when I
got by they began shout
ing in unison, "Horanda
san," "Horanda san."
The village of Mogi is
hemmed in by high hills
as shown in figure 549.
The bluffs along the
shore beyond Mogi are
so curiously shaped that
one wonders if these
strange features are due to volcanic agencies. Certainly
denudation has left mountain outlines of the most extra
ordinary shapes (fig. 550).

Fig. 550

142

JAPAN DAY BY DAY

As in Catholic countries one sees symbols of the Church
along the road, so in Japan one sees Buddhistic symbols and
shrines everywhere. Along the shore at Mogi were stone
shrines, the doors being
of stone, and before
these the fishermen
pray. Figure 551 rep
resents two of these,
the tallest being three
feet high.
On a bridge crossing
a creek in the village a number of boys were flying kites, in
some cases from the ends of long bamboo poles. By such
means a breeze could be reached, and an easier hold on the
kite was secured (fig. 552). The bridge looked very unsafe, as
there were no side rails.
We returned to Nagasaki, and after packing up the results
of our day's coUecting, we flung ourselves on the mats, tired
out. The steamer was to sail for Higo and Satsuma Sunday

Fig. 551

Fig. 552

HIGO AND TAKAHASHI 143 •
night, so all day we were ashore collecting and packing up
dredges and other material. The mail did not get in from
Yokohama when expected and we had to go without it. We
left the shore at midnight in a small boat to board the steamer
which lay out in the harbor. It rained torrents and it was
darkness unpenetrable, and it seemed impossible that our
little Japanese boatman could find his way. As soon as we

Fig. 553
boarded the steamer we got to our berths completely ex
hausted. The next day it rained. We were off the shores of
Higo at noon and anchored at a distance of five mfles from
the shore, as the water was so shallow. As the vessel was to
stay all the next day to take on a cargo of rice, we all landed
in a heavy rain and collected along the rocks lining the shore,
getting drenched to the skin. We had to walk six mfles along
a narrow river in a narrow and very muddy path to the village
of Takahashi, where we were to spend the night. The river

144 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
•
boatmen stared at me as I passed, and even discovered us long
before they reached us. They continued to look tiU we were
out of sight, though they were all very civil and poUte.
Figure 553 is a rough sketch of Takahashi from our inn.
The houses border the river and there is a grove of bamboo on
the opposite bank. Figure 554 shows a street in Takahashi,

Fig. 554
narrow and muddy. We took a boat down the river to the sea,
and as the tide was up collected from the pfles of shells near
the fishermen's huts, getting many fine specimens in perfect
condition. Imagine my amazement upon finding on one of the
refuse piles a large number of the shells of the large green
Lingula anatina ! The animal had been used for food, and I
ran around like a maniac to find somebody who could tell me
where they were dug. I soon learned that they were dug at
low tide and were a common article of food. Here was the

A CURIOUS CRAB 145
creature that alone had brought me first to Japan, and for
the moment I felt like abandoning everything to devote my
whole attention to this ancient worm. However, that would
not do, but I shall come back to this place after the Satsuma
work is over.
When we left the Higo coast a fisherman came alongside,
and in the boat, among other crabs and shrimps, I got a hun
dred specimens of a curious crab with
the two posterior pairs of legs ap
parently out of place and turning
upward from the thoracic region. At
last I found one covered by a circular
bivalve shell {Docinia), the function
of the two little claws being to hold
it on the back (fig, 555). The back
of the crab has a grotesque resem
blance to a human face, and there is
a legend connected with this, which
the fisherman endeavored to tell me,*
As has been mentioned, the foreign traveler in Japan never
fails to notice the innumerable ways in which the bamboo is
utilized, not only in the most delicate devices, such as the
sticks of a fan, but in water conductors for a house. Figure
556 shows a dipper made entirely of bamboo and composed of
three pieces, the water-holder, the handle, and the pin; solid,
durable, and light, and probably costing a cent.
' This crab is known as Heike gani, and in the valuable work of Joly entitled
Legends in Japanese Art, it is recorded that Heike gani are tiny crabs to which at
taches a curious legend verging on superstition: they are popularly credited with
being the ghostly remains of the Heike warriors killed at the battle of Dan-no-ura by
the Minamoto (Genji) in 1185. For additional details see the above work, p. 115.

Fig. 555

146 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
The steamer was all day getting the cargo of rice aboard,
which came out in lighters in the peculiar bags of matting so
characteristic of Japan. This delay gave me an opportunity
to sketch the distant mountains. The entire coast of Higo
is extremely mountainous, as will be seen by a few sketches
here given. It is volcanic and is considered very danger
ous to navigation, as hidden
rocks and sharp peaks are
met with. The mountains
are not over four thousand
or five thousand feet high,
those near the coastline
being perhaps fifteen hun
dred to two thousand feet.
I managed to draw a fairly
accurate outline of the
mountains as seen from the steamer.
As we safled along the coast there was a grand panorama of
mountain scenery. As we got farther south many mountains
seemed to rise directly from the water's edge, nearly all of
them volcanic, many of them having smoking craters or steam
ing sulphur springs. In figure 557 an idea of the mountain
ranges is given. As we reached the coast of Satsuma the
mountain scenery still continued, but the mountains seemed
more precipitous and the rocks near the shore more jagged
than those farther north. Figure 558 gives an idea of the char
acter of these mountains and crags along the Satsuma coast.
Figure 559 shows the appearance of Nomagasaki as we ap
proached it going south — a remarkable series of craggy peaks.

Fig. 556

Fig. 557 i

Fig. 558

Fig. 559
' Figure 557 (a, ft, e) represents a continuous range of hills.

148 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
This promontory we rounded as we approached the entrance
of Kagoshima Bay. Figure 560 represents an isolated peak
rising from the water at the southern end of Satsuma.

^£X

Fig. 560

While our steamer was taking in its cargo of rice yesterday
a Japanese junk was lying alongside and I had a good oppor
tunity to sketch her. The curious stern with a deep recess,
in which the huge rudder plays, the square rail behind,
and other details ma:ke
the vessel unique in
its way. Figure 561
is a stern view of the
vessel, and figure 562
is a view looking at
the stern from inside,
showing how the place
is utilized ; the tiUer has
been removed. Among
the details is a little
charcoal stove or hi
bachi for cooking, and
a little cupboard with sliding doors which represents the
cook's galley.
Some of the junks are ornamented with delicate carving.
Figure 563 shows the design on the bow, cut into the wood.

Fig. 561

Fig. 562

JAPANESE JUNKS 149
the Unes wide and deeply cut and colored green, but beyond
this there is not a touch of paint or stain on the whole vessel.
The woodwork is of
immaculate cleanliness ri _^(W / '/^"""^ D
and one always sees
some of the crew scrub
bing. Many of the pas
senger junks are pret
tily ornamented with a
variety of diaper in geo
metric patterns. Some
of the old junks ap
pear quite grand after
you get used to their odd appearance. They are said to be
very unseaworthy and having no keel they cannot keep up
to the wind; as a
consequence these
vessels sail near the
shore and rush to
cover on the ap
proach of a storm.
The Satsuma fish
ing boats, which are
said to sail very
fast, are odd-look
ing craft with their
sails of varying
height from bow to stern. Figure 564 is the roughest sug
gestion of their appearance. The sides of the vessel are

Fig. 563

150 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
lumbered with oars, nets, poles, etc., and as they sailed rapidly
past us I could get only the hastiest idea of them. There
are three masts, the middle one being held up by the other
two in some mysterious way. The primitive and even flimsy
way in which the safls are rigged is remarkable, and yet they
never seem to come down unless they are pulled down.
At dark I went to bed, but lay awake to see our entrance
into the Bay of Kagoshima, lat. 31°. At midnight, I was on
deck again, but a far more in
teresting sight than the entrance
to the Bay was the phosphores
cence of the sea. It was start
ling in its brilliancy, and what
was very remarkable, the dim
p gg4 and ghostly outline of every fish,
big and little, was clearly de
fined by the phosphorescent material they stirred up. I hung
over the bow to see better this wonderful exhibition. A shark,
like a ghost, went beneath the vessel, a skeleton fish with a
spectre-lit path, every turn and dodge dimly outlined. Some
fish darted away from the vessel's side like a rocket, leaving a
straight shaft of light; other fish would get confused and re
turn. So clearly were the fish depicted and illuminated that
an ichthyologist would have been able to identify every one.
At a distance I noticed a sharp line of light in the water which
I supposed was the shore, but the shore-line was far beyond.
As we neared the line I saw that it was a dense mass of the
phosphorescent material bordering some current in the sea
and consisting of the embryos of marine worms, jelly fish, and

BRILLIANT PHOSPHORESCENCE 151
the like. As the boat surged through it the effect was inde
scribably beautiful. It illuminated our faces as we looked over
the side of the vessel. The light was literally dazzling, and yet
the color was a light sea green. It reminded one of the bril
liancy of a Geissler's tube, and after we passed it, as the suc
cessive waves of the steamer's track reached it, brilUant flashes
of light came out from the dark waters. This is the first time
I have seen the tropical phosphorescence, and it seems impos
sible that it has ever been described with exaggeration.

Fig. 565
It was soon daylight and the scenery was so beautiful that
it was impossible to go down to our hot, close cabins. We
landed in a small boat from the steamer at six o'clock. The
scenery about Kagoshima is magnificent. Directly in front
of the town, and not far away, there rises from the waters
of the Bay a grand mountain with its peak shrouded in mist.
This is the famous Sakurajima, or Cherry-tree Island (fig,
565). Figure 566 is an outline of Sakurajima yama, opposite
Kagoshima, sketched from Tarumizu on the west coast of
the Bay, eight miles south of Kagoshima. Looking across
the Bay to the west a very high volcanic peak, known as

152 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
Kaunondake, having the symmetry of Fujiyama, forms an
imposing feature in the landscape. The slope as represented
is no doubt too steep, but that is the way it appeared to me
(fig, 567). Back of the city low hiUs arise.

Fig. 566

In the midst of these charming surroundings it was exas
perating that our itinerary allowed us but this one day, as
the steamer returned to Nagasaki early the next morning.
The city itself, newly buflt, is bounded along the water by

Fig. 567
an immense stone wall. The houses are poor and very cheap.
The entire city was reduced to ashes in the Satsuma rebel
lion two years ago, and the people are poor, the streets muddy
and treeless, and many of the houses were still temporary

NAGASAKI 153
shelters. It was bombarded by the English ten or twelve
years ago to avenge the killing of a bumptious Englishman,
who, despite the warning of his friends, insisted upon in
truding himself upon a procession of the Daimyo of Satsuma
on its way to the Capital. That foreigners were naturally
disliked could be plainly seen by the hostile looks of the men ;
that foreigners were great strangers I could see by the way
in which the women and children stared at me. In fact, I felt
uncomfortable during my stay there, as I was the only for
eigner within two hundred miles of the place. This proud
town was also suffering from an epidemic of Asiatic cholera,
but we did not learn it tiU some hours after. We were directed
to a wretched tea-house where the food was. so poor that I
could eat only the rice. How I longed for a cup of coffee !
After this depressing meal I took my assistant and went
collecting along the shores and sea wall of the town, sending
the two boys into the hiUs back of the town for land snaUs.
It was hot and sultry, and in our collecting we came across
piles of garbage and refuse of the town, a most unusual sight.
We got many fine specimens of a peculiar bivalve and also
some carrion-eating snails. We got a great many Auricula,
Melampus, and one Truncatella in the refuse pfles. The stench
was dreadful, and I wondered at it, as Japanese towns are
generally so clean. On our way back we went to the telegraph
office, and there saw posted up in Japanese a warning notice
which read, "Cholera is now prevalent; be careful"! I must
confess I felt uncomfortable the whole day knowing how I
had exposed myself overhauling garbage heaps on a nearly
empty stomach, compelled to live on Japanese food of the

154 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
poorest quality, and so thirsty all the time that I had to drink
water once in a while.
I called on the Governor of the Ken and told him the ob
ject of my visit, and he detailed a very pleasant Japanese
officer as an assistant for me during our brief stay. He also
found us a clean, pleasant
place to spend the night.
At noon he had a boat en
gaged, with a crew of four
naked men, who not only
sculled vigorously, but
took an interest in the
dredging and helped pick
over the dredging ma
terial. The Satsuma boat
is the most efficient boat
of its kind, — one of the
fastest I have yet seen,
and as clean as a kitchen
floor when that is clean
and dry. The forward end is wrought out of a single block
of wood, as shown in figure 568; a plan of the boat is shown
to the right in outline. We dredged tfll dark and got many
good things.
The next morning we were to go down the Bay ten or
twelve mfles to dredge and coflect along the shore. The offi
cer selected by the Governor to accompany us described to
me a deposit of shells high up on the land which the people
were burning for lime, and from his description I decided it

Fig. 568

AN UPRAISED BEACH 155
must be an ancient shell heap. We were up at four o'clock,
and after getting things together we started down the Bay.
A long row — for there was no wind — brought us to a very
picturesque place, Mototarumizu, on the eastern side of the
Bay. The government officer landed with me, whfle Mr.
Tanada and the servant started off dredging. Foreigners
never come here, and the inhabitants turned out en masse
to see me as I passed through the Uttle fishing vfllages bor
dering the shore. I recall a delicious drink of water from a
mountain stream. We walked nearly three miles round the
shores of the Bay to the supposed shell heap. It was indeed
a shell heap, but not an artificial one, for it was a huge de
posit of beach-worn shells. An upheaval of the coast within
comparatively recent times had placed them at a consider
able elevation above the water-level. Darwin, in his "Voyage
of a Naturalist," describes similar upraised beaches at Co-
quimbo, in Chile. It was a further indication of the volcanic
character of the country as shown by the mountain contours.
The walk had been of the greatest interest, for all the old-
time customs prevailed; children stopped their play and
bowed to me politely; men and women suspended their work
to bow as I passed; and these bows were as politely returned,
for practice had made me an adept in the Japanese form.
We met men on horseback with saddles and stirrups in the
Japanese style; everything purely Japanese. In passing a
back yard I noticed the typical well-sweep of New England
(fig. 569),i
' Though the sketch has been reproduced in Japanese Homes, I cannot refrain
from again presenting it.

156 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
A^rude sort of stable is shown in figure 570, In Japan the
horse, instead of going into the staU head first, is always
backed in.
On our return to the landing-place we stopped at a gentle
man's house to examine some old pottery. The oflficer had
told the people that I
was greatly interested
in old pottery, and so
I had a chance to see
many curious objects.
Figure 571 represents
an old Korean cup, six
inches in diameter, the
design inside so odd
that I sketched it. I
have never seen the pe
culiar rake or bench in
Japan, I was given for
the University Museum
a curious oviform jar, fourteen inches high, with a fillet of
clay around the biggest diameter; it was of coarse, red clay,
thick and heavy, and unlike any of the pottery found farther
north. After a charming time over the old Korean and Japanese
pottery we started off again along the shore, as the tide was
out, and I had the delight of seeing alive for the first time a
number of tropical species of shells, Cyprsea, Conus, Murex,
anci an exquisite little Bulla. During the day the breeze died
out, and we were delayed for hours. The Governor had in-

FiG. 569

Fig. 570

DINNER WITH THE GOVERNOR 157
vited me to dinner at six o'clock, but it was nine o'clock be
fore we got back to the landing-place, and had it not been
for a spanking breeze
which came up it _____ ' ' "^^y'^^^^^
might have been mid- '"^ mrfra^s^r-. \\x\ . \
night. I jumped from
the boat and ran to
the inn for dry stock
ings and a clean shirt,
and hurried to the
Governor'shousewith
the officer who had
accompanied us, and
my assistant. We were shown into a beautiful room, large
and spacious. I was in my stocking feet, of course. As I
walked into the room the Governor came forward and greeted
me cordially, and I

did not detect the
slightest impatience
in his manner at my
lateness, though it
was nearly ten o'clock.
He had a wonderful
collection of chrysan
themums in his gar
den, and these were
illuminated by hundreds of lanterns. He then showed me
a number of old Satsuma and other pieces and expressed
his amazement several times that a foreigner, whose inter-

Fig. 571

Fig. 572

158 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
ests were supposed to be in other directions, had learned to
distinguish so quickly the Chinese, Korean, and Japanese
pottery. At ten o'clock we were invited upstairs to dinner.
There were six in all, and the dinner was
in foreign style in compUment to me,
though, as I had got used to Japanese food,
I should have enjoyed it more if it had
been Japanese; as it was, I showed my
appreciation by eating heartily. The only
mouthful I had had since four o'clock in
the morning was two sweet potatoes with
a little coarse and dirty salt.
One of the gentlemen was full of fun,
and before we were half through dinner began to play some
odd tricks with his hands. I managed to do all of the things
that he did except bend my fingers back to my arms. I then
showed them the trick of making the hands go round in op
posite directions, and finally the right hand going faster than
the left hand. It was laughable to
see the desperate attempts they all
made to accomplish the trick, and
not one was able to do it.
I then asked permission to bor
row a sword for a moment. This
was brought to, me wrapped in silk.
Knowing the dignity and ceremony involved in unsheathing
the sword I apologized, turned slightly away, and drew the
sword with the cutting edge toward me. The trick consisted
in grasping the handle with one hand and the scabbard near

Fig. 573

Fig. 574

Fig. 576

160 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
the handle with the other, the backs of the hands down, and
then withdrawing the blade, turning both hands completely
over, and sheathing the sword to the hUt. Not one could get
the sword parallel to the sheath; it was generally
at right angles,
I showed them a number of tricks on the floor
that I had learned as a boy in a country academy,
and what with the sake and the games we had a
delightful time. The Governor gave me the Satsuma
bottle he drank from. It was made especially for
him many years before, but he said it did not hold
Fig. 577 enough. Figure 572 is a sketch of it with the deep,
box-like tray that accompanies it. It will be ob
served that the deep wooden tray has openings
on opposite sides through which to draw the
cloth in cleaning it.
At two o'clock in the morning we had to say
good-bye and all expressed the pleasure they
had enjoyed. We hurried to the tea-house in
the dark, packed up the results of our day's
coUecting, and started for the steamer just as
day was dawning. We heard the anchor be
ing weighed and clambered aboard with the
steamer just starting. I had been on my feet
for twenty-four hours, had dredged, had walked
eight miles in a broiling sun with almost noth
ing to eat, and now found myself so tired out
that I dropped on the hard deck and fell sound asleep,
I learned in some way that my mafl from America, which

Fig. 578

KAGOSHIMA JINRIKISHA 161
I had missed at Nagasaki, had been forwarded overland to
Kagoshima, but it was impossible to wait for it, as the
steamer had to sail on schedule time, and so I was missing it
again. Orders, however, had
been left at the Post-Office to - r^^^HT — ^-- "7^*^
return it to Nagasaki, where I Fig. 579
was to be for a week or more.
Before entering another region of Japan there are a few
observations to record. Every place seemed to have its pecu
har type of jinrikisha, and Kagoshima is no exception. Here
the shafts are bent in a curve over the head of the man so
that the transverse piece is over the man's head, and one
wonders why it does not bump him. The sketch (fig, 573)
gives a faint idea of this jinrikisha. The back and sides are
gaudily painted and lacquered and pictures of dragons and
other mythological subjects and heroes also embellish the
back of the vehicle, A pecuUar type of plough is used in the

Fig, 580
grain-fields of Satsuma and Higo (fig. 574), The iron shoe
and shearing piece seem light and feeble, but the plough en
counters no boulders in the ground. It is drawn by a single
horse, and though primitive in construction seems to do its
work weU.

162 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
The country abounds in stone-arched bridges, many of
them old, some of them of considerable size, and all pic
turesque. It seems curious to see so many arched bridges
and not one of the arches
having a keystone, such an
important element in a bridge
Fig. 581 as we consider it, yet the
Japanese have never seen the
necessity of it. To us their arch looks imperfect and inse
cure. However, I have never seen one showing weakness
and there is no reason why it should. It forms a pretty
feature in the landscape — rivers and even little brooks
spanned by stone arches, lichen-covered with age. A little
narrow creek in Kagoshima was spanned in one place by
three stone-arched bridges connecting with as many little
footpaths (fig. 575).
Not only are well-sweeps of the old New England type
seen in Satsuma, but in some cases the weU is inside the
house and the well-sweep stands outside, as y.
in figure 576, which represents a bathhouse in
, . Fig. 582
Kagoshima. It is interesting to see how promptly the Japanese turn
to bamboo for little devices. For instance, the other day,
whfle dredging, I found that a pair of long iron forceps had
been left behind, but my boy immediately took down a slen
der bamboo flagstaff from the boat, cut off one joint, and
soon made a fine long pair of forceps which I found not only
very serviceable, but light to handle (fig, 577),
There are several types of anchors. An iron form with four

HIGO AND SATSUMA 163
recurved hooks is shown in one of the sketches of junks. Fig
ure 578 shows another type. It is made of wood, and the
weight consists of two pieces of stone lashed to a transverse
piece. In Higo and Satsuma, and probably in other portions of
Kyushu, they use pottery beads, or cylinders, two inches
long, on the breeching-band of the harness, this device per
mitting the rope to rub up and down without friction. These
are strung alternately on the rope which goes over the flank
of the horse and are glazed yellow and green (fig, 579), In
Yezo round wooden beads are used in the same way,
A few sketches of headlands are given: in figure 580 the
entrance to the Bay of Kagoshima; figure 581, off the Higo
coast, with stratified rocks dipping to the south; and figure
582, rocks on the west coast of Satsuma, known as "fifty-
foot rocks," as they are said to be fifty feet in height. The
stratified rock I had not seen so well defined before.

CHAPTER XVII
TRAVELS IN THE SOUTH
The sail from Kagoshima to Shimabara Gulf was delight
ful. The sea was as smooth as a mfllpond, with not the slight
est swell even, and I was able to write a good deal in my jour
nal. The next morning the vessel anchored off the mouth
of Takahashi River; not nearer than five miles, however. In
the mean time a strong breeze had sprung up and a heavy
sea was smashing against the side of the vessel, I knew how
safe the little Japanese sampan was, for I had dredged from
them many times, yet I felt somewhat anxious as I saw the
boat dancing up and down by the side of the steamer. We
had great difficulty in getting our luggage aboard, and then
had to make a flying leap from the steamer's steps which
had been lowered for us. However, we landed safely, and
having ascertained all about the position where Lingula
might be dug I left my boy and Tomi, as we call him, to give
their whole attention to collecting all the Lingula they could
find and all the seaweeds, and I pushed on with my assistant
to Kumamoto, nearly four mfles inland.
We caUed on the Governor at the castle, a fine-looking old
gentleman who had provided for us a good Japanese dinner,
which we greatly enjoyed. The Governor showed us about
the castle and told us about the siege two years before, when
for six weeks the castle was besieged, many of the bufldings

KUMAMOTO 165
burned down, many citizens and soldiers kiUed, and the city
of Kumamoto laid in ashes. The Governor was in his castle
and the rebels made special efforts to destroy the buflding
in which he was supposed to be. The buildings were battered
and in many places were the marks of bullet holes. It was
interesting to see the anunation of the old man as he described
his experience.
And here, before I forget it, I must record the fact that
nearly ninety-nine out of a hundred intelligent people I have
met in our country confound the phases of the moon with
eclipses. The captain of our steamer, an Englishman, had
no conception of the matter till I explained it to him, and in
the discussion I found that he knew nothing about the laws
of gravitation and had an idea that we were held to the earth
by the pressure of the atmosphere ! I cannot spend the time
recounting our discussion, but here was an EngUsh captain
navigating a steamer, and knowing thoroughly the coast
with its hidden rocks and sandbars, yet utterly ignorant of
the simplest facts in astronomy. He asked me, though in
an abashed way, if Darwin lived in the days of Aristotle (for
he seemed to know that name and that he lived centuries ago),
or was of the present tune !
To return now to the Governor I told him the objects of
our work, and he offered to send an officer to accompany us,
as I intended going to Yatsushiro, thirty-four miles south. By
this tune it was late in the afternoon and we were very tired,
yet we took a long walk around the outskirts of the city.
Here, as at Kagoshima, and at other places, the absorbed

166 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
way in which every one looked at me showed how rare was
the sight of a foreigner.
That evening the officer sent by the Governor came to
our inn and a delightful gentleman he proved to be. Such
profound bows as he made, and I could not help laughing at
myself to find how natural it seemed to me to be kneeling on
the floor and bowing again and again till my head repeatedly
touched the mat, and I had even acquired the curious sipping
sound in drawing the air into my mouth.
The next morning we were off at five o'clock, and after a
long, tiresome jinrikisha ride of twenty-four miles over the
roughest of roads came to Onomura, where I found the shell
heaps I had been looking for. The road passes through them
and they are at least five miles from the sea. The deposits
may prove to be equal in depth to the sheU heaps of Florida,
at least thirty feet. The solid mass of shells consisted of Area
granosa, though many other species of shells were found.
We examined and dug until nearly dark, and' then pushed
on to Yatsushiro, arriving there at nine o'clock at night, when
we reported to the Governor of the Ken and met a most cour
teous gentleman; every movement, every action was that of
grace and refinement. In the Shogunate his rank was very
high, but with all his charm of manner there was not the
slightest trace of affectation. He ordered a merchant to find
accommodations for us, and this my assistant informed me
was customary when they wished to do special honor to a
visitor; instead of letting him go to a public house they open
a private house for him. What unfathomable lies my assis
tant told him about me I did not learn, but in my somewhat

YATSUSHIRO HOSPITALITY 167
fatigued condition the hospitality was indeed gratefully re
ceived. The house where we spent the night was large and
ample; the rooms were much higher-studded than in the usual
house, and spacious. The space between the sliding parti
tions and the ceiUng had a remarkable carving representing
long gutters of wood conveying water, for irrigation prob
ably; the grasses, supports for the gutters, and other details
were beautifully made,*
The next morning the Governor brought to me as a pre
sent four Koda teacups which he said had been made by the
order of his father thirty-five years before.
Figure 583 is a sketch of one of them, I
was delighted to possess them, as I have
developed a passion for Japanese pottery,
old and new. He told me he had a large
„ . , . 1 , , T , Fig- 583
coUection of tea-jars, and that he would
bring them to Kumamoto for me to examine. He expressed
a desire to examine the Onomura shell heaps with us.
We started for Onomura in a driving rain; we were soon
wet through and were in that condition aU day. We made as
thorough an examination as possible of the shell heaps in
the limited time we had. We got many bones, among them
fragments of human bones as in the Omori deposit showing
evidences of cannibalism. One human tibia was unusually
flattened, an index of 50.2, one of the lowest ever recorded.
Some extraordinary forms of pottery were found; one shallow
bowl with unique arrow design (fig. 584).
Professor Lyman, the geologist, who first told me about
' The sketch of this ramma has been reproduced in Japanese Homes, fig. 149.

168 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
the Onomura shell heaps, also described a curious stone coffin
near the shell heaps. We easily found it. It was a huge stone
sarcophagus. The end of the cover had been broken and was
face down, and it was hard to get the viUagers to assist us in
turning it over on account
of superstitions connected
with burial. Our jinrikisha
man, however, had no scru
ples, and by digging around
the stone with a beam for
a lever we got it turned.
Figure 585 is a rough sketch
of its appearance ; the inside
was cut in panels. It is be
lieved to date back a thou
sand or twelve hundred
years. The Governor of Ya
tsushiro knew nothing about it, and regarded it with the
greatest interest.
The rain continued all day and we were wet and muddy.
At noon we stopped to take a hasty lunch. The jinrikisha
men had brought their lunch with them : cold rice, a pickled
plum, and possibly a little raw fish with the customary shoyu.
We found a fisherman's hut, a rather poverty-stricken place,
and humbly asked for rice, and the fisherman and his wife
poUtely, and without a sign of being flustered, set about the
task of getting us something to eat — a dark-colored rice
and some small dried fish as hard as a bone. There was no
servile apology for the meagreness of the fare, though they

Fig. 584

THE GOVERNOR'S COURTESY 169
realized the august presence of the Governor, and had never
before had an "outside barbarian" beneath their roof; yet
with simple dignity they did what hospitality required. The .
manners of the Governor were simply exquisite; he ate the
poor food with an apparent reUsh and returned bow for bow.
I cannot find words to describe the way he charmed those

I ^^K.*^

Fig. 585
poor people by his apparent enjoyment of the simple food.
Had he been entertained by the Emperor with a sumptuous
feast he could not have shown his appreciation and gratitude
more strongly.
Whfle we were eating, some villagers looked in to wonder
and admire. One of the men told us there was a cave in the
side of the hill in which were a few potterj' vessels. Knowing
the peculiar form of cave pottery farther north and that the
caves were burial-places, and that the vessels were placed

170 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
there for offerings of rice, wine, etc., I asked for a brush and
paper and ventured to draw the outlines of the vessels which
were in the cave. The Governor showed the drawings to the
men, and asked them if they were correct. With curious em
barrassment they told us they had never seen the pottery, nor
had their fathers, but their grandfathers had handed down
the story that when a narrow road had been built on the side
of the hill the workmen had broken through the roof of the
cave and had seen the vessels.
After lunch we had the men guide us to the place. Though
it was raining in torrents we waded through the mud up a
steep incline for nearly half a mile, when we came to a place
where they stopped and pointed over the precipitous side of
the road where ten feet below was an opening out of which
the muddy water was pouring like a sluice, and that was the
entrance! Only a muskrat or a beaver could stem a current
like that. In looking around for the source of the water I
found that a flooded gutter beside the road was losing much
of its water at the place where we were standing. The Gov
ernor got permission to dig up the gutter at this point, and
we came to a number of logs which covered the hole in the
roof of the cave. Farther up the road the gutter was dammed
in such a way as to divert the stream over the steep embank
ment. The hole was certainly not over two feet in diameter.
A dozen or more villagers had collected, and generous pay
ment was offered to any one who would allow himself to be
lowered into the cave, but superstitious fear at entering a
sepulchral vault was so great that not one of them was wilUng
to go down. Our jinrikisha men from Yatsushiro shook their

A CAVE FULL OF CENTIPEDES 171
heads also, and as my assistant did not volunteer there was
nothing to do but go myself. The Governor endeavored to
restrain me, saying that mines had been dug there; but if so
I knew the water must be on a level with the stream outside.
I got two jinrikisha men to grab my hands and lower me. It
was as dark as a pocket, and the little light from a rainy sky
was cut off by the curious and awe-stricken crowd that
shaded the hole. I stretched out my legs in vain to find some
thing to touch, and finally jerked my hands from the grasp
of the men and dropped into the water nearly up to my
middle. There was a momentary silence and then shouts of
horror came echoing down from the opening. I called back
to my assistant that I was all right, when in agitated tones
he told me that great poisonous centipedes were crawling
out of the opening! I had on my wide-brimmed hat and a
slippery rubber coat, and what I had supposed to be crumbs
of earth and pebbles tumbling from the sides of the ragged
hole were huge centipedes dropping on me ! I stood literally
in a cascade of the venomous creatures. They were scam
pering around the walls of the cave and dropping off from
the ceiling as frightened spiders will. As I got accustomed
to the dim light I saw them by hundreds floating in the
water, and after waiting tfll the current had drained them
off I groped around in the sand for the pottery. The sand and
mud had been accumulating and a deposit two feet or more
in depth covered the whole floor. It was a hideous experience,
but my slippery raincoat and broad-brimmed hat saved
me, for the creatures could not retain a hold and tumbled
into the water as fast as they struck me. Had I not been so

172 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
excited over the pottery, my loathsome position in this dark
and noisome cave, crouching in a cascade of centipedes,
would have horrified me. I got three specimens of the crea
tures for the Museum, made a sketch of the wall of the cave
toward the opening, and then had a rope lowered to me and
was puUed up. The ground around the hole outside was
marked with the mangled remains of many centipedes that
had been crushed as they crawled out.
With the water dammed above and drained away from the
cave, I finally induced two jinrikisha men to go down, and
with hoes they carefully scratched away the sand, and after
an hour's hard digging discovered four specimens of pottery,
one perfect, another slightly broken, and large fragments of
two others. The Governor drew out the sketch, and I heard
him speak to the natives in wonder that I, a foreigner, who
had come ten thousand li across the seas, should describe
precisely the shape of the vessels to be found, which they
had never seen. The natives looked at me as a foreign devil,
indeed, and showed much discontent when I took the pottery
away. The Governor explained that it was to be placed in
the Museum of the University. Figure 586 shows the ap
pearance of the cave looking toward the entrance. The centre
arch shows the opening into the cave; from the outside, where
the opening is small, the entrance enlarges to the cave and
the aUeyway is curved as well; on each side within were two
blind arches.
At five o'clock in the afternoon we started for a twenty-
four mfle ride to Kumamoto, and a more dismal and weari
some ride I never had — raining all the time and the roads in

KUMAMOTO AGAIN 173
frightful condition. I was tired out, and so cold that I shiv
ered, so sleepy that it was a struggle to keep awake; and yet
if I dozed for a moment my head would be nearly wrenched
off by the jolts of the jinrikisha. I had left Mr. Tanada be
hind to pack the pottery and other specimens we had got
at the sheU heaps, and my only companion was the Governor,
who did not understand a word of English, and my Tokyo-

Fig. 586

Japanese — almost a dialect — was nearly unintelligible to
him. At eight o'clock we hired extra jinrikisha men, and they
sang the entire way, each one in turn giving a grunt or a note
uttered at every step. The novelty of jinrikisha men singing
kept me awake for a while, but even this attraction wore
away, and when I got to Kumamoto I was more dead than
alive. The Governor of Kumamoto had ordered a private
house for our abode, but I was too cold and even sick to ap
preciate the accommodation, and having taken off my shoes,
crept into the house and lay down on the floor in my wet
clothes and slept like a log.
The next morning I called on the Governor of Kumamoto
to thank him for his courtesies and to tell him of the discov
eries we had made and of the curious cave at Onomura. He

174 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
then told me that in the castle rocks were some caves. He
smfled at my impatience to see them, but amiably got up and
guided me to them. My limited time permitted only the
briefest examination of them. The openings appeared on the
side of the cliff; foliage hung down so as to obscure many of
them, and some were diflficult to reach. I entered a few of the
caves, which were square in shape. In one there was a trans
verse partition and in others there were recessed portions in
the farther end about four feet up from the floor, making a
ledge on which probably offerings of food were placed. An
interesting field of study would be an examination of the
caves of Japan; they are found widespread throughout the
Empire, and, so far as I know, are mortuary caves.
In the afternoon I returned to Takahashi and found that
the boys had done wonders in collecting. I feasted my eyes
on tubfuls of the big green Lingula, and ate a few of them as
the natives do. The peduncle only is eaten and I found them
rather tasteless.
After reaching the little fishing vfllage at the mouth of the
Takahashi River, I learned with disgust that the steamer
would not safl untU the next day on account of the threatening
storm and I therefore spent the rest of the day studying Lin
gula. On the mud flats were a number of creatures hopping
about which I first niistook for smaU toads or frogs. Catch
ing one with difficulty I found they were Uttie fish with an
extraordinary development of the pectoral fin. These little
animals gamboled about as if playing with one another. It
was not difificult to see how Lamarck got his ideas of the result
of effort in modifying parts, etc.

PICTURESQUE SHRINES 175
The kites at Takahashi were of enormous proportions —
eight or ten feet square with a stout rope for a string. One
kite had the same flashing eyes already mentioned.
On our way from Onomura yesterday we passed a fine old
tree beyond which was a shrine. It is interesting that every
where in Japan, where there is a picturesque view or some
natural object of interest, a shrine is erected. Figure 587 is an
illustration of this cus
tom. The tree being
quaint and of interest
the shrine is erected
back of it. Here they
utilize nature to call
attention to their reli
gious duties; in our
country beautiful scen
ery is either hidden by
huge signs for liver
troubles, or the landscape is ruined by other vulgar advertise
ments. At Takahashi is a camphor tree, magnificent in form
and size and greatly treasured by the people; its trunk ten
feet from the ground is eight feet in diameter (fig. 588).
Looking west from Takahashi across the Shimabara Gulf is
seen a noble mountain mass known as Onsendake. The tops
of these volcanic mountains are obscured by clouds most of
the time, but now and then glimpses can be had and the out
lines shown in figure 589 are fairly correct. The steamer that
carried us to Nagasaki made a hasty trip to the island and
town of Shimabara, reaching there at five in the afternoon.

Fig. 587

176 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
It is one of the most picturesque places in Japan. You saU in
and out among Uttle rugged islands and finally reach the town,
at the water's edge, and just back of the town rise the rocky
slopes of Onsendake. We rode through the town a mile and a

Fig. 588
half to a famous inn and ordered a fine dinner consisting of
a large gasteropod, Rapana bezoar, served in its beautiful shell,
boiled cuttlefish, fried eel, and rice, — all delicious. On our way
back to the boat, which was to stop only two hours, we hunted
for sheUs, the natives eyeing us with reluctant and unfriendly
gaze. Here is where the people opposed to the last the landing

VOYAGE TO NAGASAKI 177
of foreigners, and every look and action betrayed their aver
sion to the barbarian.
I managed to get one little hasty sketch of a stone bridge.
Everywhere one sees stone bridges, many of them constructed

Fig. 589
precisely like a wooden one, but its beams, supports, and rails
are hewn out of stone, as shown in figure 590.
At seven in the evening we started for Nagasaki and such
beautiful little islands as we passed! It seemed Uke going
home after the somewhat fatiguing dash we had made in Sa
tsuma and Higo. Our steamer was the smaUest one I have yet
traveled in. It was so small and cranky that when I walked to
one side it would tip in that direction. No wonder the cap
tain waited for a few days on account of the stormy weather.

^^^^g

178 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
The next morning we reached Nagasaki, where I was again
to find European food, a chair to sit in, and a table with a kero
sene lamp at which to write. Living in Japan, I notice the
absence of a table more than I do the food, to which I am grad
ually becoming accustomed. To go without coffee, mflk, and
bread-and-butter is indeed a deprivation; but it is awkward
and painful to sit on the floor to write and draw, and when
one is tired it is almost impossible. At Nagasaki I remained

^

Fig. 591
several days studying the living Lingula I had brought from
Higo and also a minute Descina which I had dredged in the
harbor. Mr. Mangum, the American consul, and his wife were
very kind to me. They gave me the use of a fine room in their
house for my microscope, and furthermore insisted that I
should come to dinner every day while in Nagasaki. As the
hotel was poor, it was enjoyable to get one good meal a day.
A river runs through the town spanned by a number of
stone-arched bridges, some of them very old. Figure 591
shows the type of these bridges, A form of kite which the boys
fly from the bridges is shown in figure 592; it is unlike the
northern kite and the two circles are entirely black. There are

SHIMONOSEKI 179
other forms and designs, but the form figured seems the most
common. Many of the measures — wet as weU as dry — are made in
the form of a square instead of round. In the dry measures
for grain a piece extends from one corner
diagonally to the other corner flush with
the edge of the measure (fig. 593), Figure
594 shows the sake measures with conven
ient handles and a tub of sake near by,
Nagasaki is famous for its tortoise-shell
work. It was interesting to visit the place Fig°"592
where they made objects of tortoise shell.
The workmen in every trade sit on the ground, and in this
place they sat cross-legged, like Turks, and not in the usual
way already described (fig, 595), It seemed wonderful that
they could apparently mould and melt together the thin
plates of tortoise shell. They use ponderous iron pincers
which they heat in a furnace (fig. 596), and squeeze the sheets
of tortoise shell together or make curved or other forms.
On our way back from Nagasaki to Kobe we again passed
through Shimonoseki Straits, and came to anchor off the vil
lage of Shimonoseki consisting of a long stretch
of low buildings, I was told that the people
were very unfriendly to foreigners, and no
wonder when one recalls the cruel bombard-
FiG, 593 ment years ago by the warships of four Chris
tian nations. We desired to land, but were told by the
Japanese purser that foreigners rarely landed at the viUage.
Relying on the uniform courtesy of the Japanese, I was

180 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
bound to land, though my passport did not cover the place
or even the province, I told the purser that it was unportant
to get a glance of the shore at low tide in the interests of
the University, He then permitted me to go ashore in his
boat, A glance at the shore was
made, and then I walked through
the main streets of the town and
peered into every shop, I could
readily see that a foreigner was
persona non grata. I was not treated
rudely, but was simply ignored. The
children ran from me as if I were the
Devil, and one sweet Uttle boy,
whom I could not resist patting,
held his breath as if it required the
greatest courage to endure the caresses of the hated foreigner.
At Kobe we stopped for dredging for a few days and I made
various excursions into the country. At the hotel I met the
surgeon of the British gunboat, who had brought to me at
Nagasaki a big package of mail. We dined together, and he
told me some particulars regarding the incident of my mail.
He said that when the gunboat left Nagasaki for Kagoshima
Gulf, the commander left word to have mail forwarded to
Kagoshima, When they reached Kagoshima, they heard that
a large bundle of mail had arrived and had been sent back to
Nagasaki overland. They concluded, naturally, that the maU
was for them, as they knew of no foreigners within two hun
dred miles of the place. They had had no letters from home
for a long time and were all hungry for their mafl. On their

Fig. 594

A LARGE MAIL 181
way back from Kagoshima, they put in at one place to inter
cept the mail, but it had gone by. The next day, farther up
the coast, while the commander and oflficers were in the cabin, a

Fig. 595
bundle of mail was sent aboard and they all gathered about the
table in great glee and tore open the bundle; the surgeon told
me that I would not have been edified if I had heard the com
ments upon my name as the commander read over the ad
dresses. It ranged aU the way from damning me, to inquiries
as to who in h — ^1 I was.
Every piece of mail to the
last scrap was for me !
While in Osaka we were
told that there were cer
tain ancient mounds in
the viUages of Hattorigawa, fig. 596
and Korigawa, about twelve
miles from Osaka. Our ride carried us across a large plain
under complete cultivation. As far as the eye could reach
were innumerable well-sweeps after the typical New Eng-

182 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
land style, which were used in bringing up water from shal
low weUs for irrigating purposes. The mounds were typical
dolmens such as have been described in Brittany and Scan
dinavia: a huge mound of earth covered a long, narrow
entrance-way leading to a square chamber, ten or twelve feet
across. We examined them with great interest, and wondered
how these people, twelve hundred years or more ago, could
have raised the immense blocks of stone that form the roofs
of these chambers. ^
A hasty trip from Kyoto to Nara was through delightful
woods and charming scenery. It is beyond me to add any
words to the many descriptions of the charms of Nara. Cer
tain memories of the place will last forever : the quiet roads, the
deep shadows, the deer from the forests tranquilly walking
through the viUage street, with the inhabitants, young and
old, equally inoffensive. Ruskin has somewhere said that he
hoped the time would come when man would make as much
effort to make wild animals tame as he now does to make tame
animals wfld; and it is a fact that wfld birds and mammals in
Japan are in many instances tamer than are our domestic
birds and mammals at home. Nara is the ancient capital of
Japan, and a spirit of a hallowed antiquity broods over the
place. One may spend weeks in a study of the grand old tem
ples. A marvelous old wooden storehouse perched on high
posts was built a thousand years ago to preserve the objects
belonging to an emperor of that tune. It is certainly one of
the marvels of Japan. In this buflding are preserved the
> These structures were described and figured by me in an article, entitled
"Dolmens in Japan," in the Popular Science Monthly, March, 1880, p. 593.

HISTORICAL COLLECTION AT NARA 183
household objects and utensfls actually owned by the emperor,
from the simplest hairpin to the finest musical instrument,
some inlaid with gold; objects of the kitchen, decorative
pieces, pictures, books, pottery, furniture, clothing, weapons,
walking-canes, ink-stones and sticks of ink, fans; indeed, the
entire contents of the palace. To appreciate the marvelous
character of the collection one must imagine a similar store
house in England which should contain the household objects
belonging to King Alfred. Once a year Government officials
open the single entrance and examine all the objects to see that
none have been injured by dampness or other influences. I
was fortunate in being in Nara during this annual examina
tion, and knowing one of the officials was permitted to enter
the building with them and allowed to make sketches of the
old pottery. It was interesting to watch the reverent behav
ior of the grave oflTicials. AU wore white cloth gloves and aU
spoke in a low tone.'
The jinrikisha ride from Nara to Kyoto was most delight
ful. The road led through dark forests and out again into
charming, open scenery, and the purest of Japanese life was
seen. There is no better way of absorbing the beauties of the
country than in jinrikisha riding. To ride in one is like sitting
back in an easy-chair, and the speed is just fast enough to fan
you and yet suflficiently rapid to make you realize that pro
gress is being made toward your destination. At one place we
crossed a river ford, not by going down a deep and sandy em
bankment, but by climbing up a gentle incline to ford the river
1 Within a few years the Japanese Government has published an account of these
treasures with beautiful illustrations of many of the objects.

184 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
far above the general level of the plains, the river Uterally
running on a ridge ! For centuries it has been confined to its
channels, not by digging out the detritus swept down from the
mountains, but by piling up embankments on the sides, with
the result that the river-bed is conspicuously above the sur
rounding country, resembUng a raflroad embankment. On
both sides of the road, as one enters the ford, are stone posts

Fig. 597
with deep vertical grooves, and at times of freshets planks are
fitted into these grooves to keep the water from washing away
the road.
Kyoto was approached through interesting surroundings,
a proper frame for a city of art and refinement, prominent be
cause of its varied points of interest. The cleanliness, the so
briety, and the artistic atmosphere impress you. A visit to
the pottery districts — for there are a number: Kiyomizu, Go-
jiosaka, Awata — was most interesting. Instead of finding a

THE KYOTO POTTERIES 185
rough neighborhood and coarse surroundings and acres dis
figured by broken pottery, it was like visiting some of the
famous studios near Paris. The children in the region, pret
tily dressed, bowed politely to us as we walked along. The
entrance of the potteries was reserved and modest (fig. 597),
and within we were greeted by the head of the family, and tea

Fig. 598

and cake were immediately offered us. It seems that the mem
bers of the family alone are engaged in the work, from the
little boy or girl to the old grandfather, whose feeble strength
is utilized in some simple process of the work. The output is
smaU except in those potteries given up to making stuff for the
foreign trade (fig. 598), known to the Japanese as Yokohama
muke, meaning "Yokohama direction"; that is, for export, a

186 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
contemptuous expression. In these cases many outsiders are
employed, boys ten years old splashing on the decorations of
flowers, butterflies, and the like, motives derived from their
mythology, but in sickening profusion, so contrary to the ex-

Fig. 599
quisite reserve of the Japanese in the decoration of objects for
their own use. Previous to the demands of the foreigner, the
members of the immediate family were leisurely engaged in
producing pottery refined in form and decoration. Now the
whole compound is given up to a feverish activity of work,

POTTERY FOR THE FOREIGN TRADE 187
with Tom, Dick, and Harry and their chfldren slapping it out
by the gross. An order is given by the foreign agent for a hun
dred thousand cups and saucers. "Put on all the red and gold
you can" is the order, as told to me by one agent, and the
haste and roughness of the work, which is exported to Amer
ica and Europe, confums the
Japanese that they are deal
ing with people whose tastes
are barbaric. ' And yet these
Japanese products are re
garded as attractive in our
country. As before remarked, one
sees but few potters at work,
and every member of the
family is utflized, from the
young child, who carries the
pieces from the thrower to
the shelves for drying, to the
old man, who may be bhnd, yet able to grind the clay (fig.
599), or to knead clay with his feet (fig. 600). I had to
ask a good many questions regarding the work and history
of the Kyoto potteries, and was told that in order to get

Fig. 600

' A year afterward I noticed a parallel case in this country. At Minneapolis I was
invited to inspect a large department store. On one of its floors was a vast array of
tables crowded with objects made of hard rubber: combs, bracelets, breastpins,
cheap jewelry of such atrocious vulgarity that I was forced to inquire as to the people
who bought such stuff, as I had never seen such shocking things worn by the poor
est creature. The answer was that they were made for the Northwest trade —
probably mongrels and half-breeds, as no true savage would endure them. But
where were they made? I inquired. In Attleboro, thirty miles from Boston!

188 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
these interviews a little money present in advance would
facflitate matters. It seemed odd enough and rather mer
cenary to send in advance a dollar or more to secure the
desired information, and yet what right has one to intrude
on a busy man without offering some compensation for the

Fig. 601
time demanded? I realized, furthermore, that in our coun
try men, even millionaires, were too busy to attend direc
tors' meetings unless a ten or a twenty dollar bait were held
out as a proper compensation. The results of all these inter
views, which inquired into the history and origin of the pot
ters, the number of generations, unpressions of the various
stamps used by the different families and generations, were
got by patient and laborious inquiries through an inter
preter. I made many hasty sketches of the ovens, which are built

THE POTTERS' OVENS 189
after Chinese models.^ The ovens are buflt on a hfllside, each
oven eight to ten feet in length, six feet high, and three feet
in width, and they are placed side by side, one behind the
other. Figure 601 will illustrate the arrangement. They
are one compact mass of brick and mortar. The ovens open
at the end and communicate with each other by openings.

Fig. 602. Ovens of Rokubei

Fire is kindled in the lowest oven and the heat from this
passes through each oven in turn till it issues through rude
chimneys in the upper one. By this device all the heat is uti
lized as the current of heat rises to the last oven. After the
frrst oven has been heated sufficiently, fuel in the shape of
long slender sticks is thrust into the second oven through a
little hole in the bottom, and then into the third, and so on,
till all have been suflficiently heated and the pottery com-
1 These were not so strongly and compactly constructed as those I afterwards
saw some forty or fifty miles back of Canton.

190 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
pletely fired. This is ascertained by test objects which may
be observed through an opening in the upper end of each oven.
Every Sunday Ninagawa has come to my house to identify
the pottery I have collected during the week. One day I
actuaUy abducted him, carrying him in my jinrikisha, against
his protestations, to a photographer, and had his picture made,
the first and only one he ever had. Ninagawa was a Kyoto
man, and his sister still lived in the old homestead in Kyoto,
which was over three hundred years old. He gave me a letter
of introduction to her, and with a copy of his photograph I
visited her, and her delight at the picture of Ninagawa en
abled me to make a study of the house, inside and out.'
Most of my time in Kyoto was spent at the various pot
teries and from the more famous ones, Dohachi, Kichizaemon,
Yeiraku, Rokubei, and Kitei, I made a large addition to my
pottery studies, getting from them a history of the famflies
of the past generations, impressions of their pottery signa
tures, etc.^
From Kyoto we went to Osaka again. Here a Japanese
student, Mr. Ogawa, whose acquaintance I had made in
Tokyo, desirous of entertaining me, and not realizing that
I had become accustomed to Japanese food and enjoyed it,
invited me to a Japanese restaurant to have what was sup
posed to be food cooked and served in foreign style. The
Japanese make excellent cooks when properly taught. I had
had experience in a Japanese foreign restaurant before, but
of all abominable stuff the Osaka attempt was the climax.
' Sketches of the house and garden are given in Japanese Homes.
2 This information is given in my Catalogue of Japanese Pottery, published by
the Boston Museum of Fine Arts.

Fig. 603. A Potter making Flowers in Relief in a
Recessed Panel on Vase

Fig. 604. An Artist decorating Pottery
Observe the kerosene oil lamp

192 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
Every dish was a travesty, and I wondered how the Japanese
were impressed when, out of curiosity, they attempted our
food. Cholera was very prevalent, and one had to resist the temp
tation to eat of everything raw, such as grapes and other fruit,
and green things of various kinds. Moreover, not a swallow of
cold water could be drunk. Tea, tea, tea, morning, noon, and
night, and on every possible occasion. Speaking of tea, how
ever, it is one of the pleasant features of Japan that wherever
you go, friend's house or shop, tea is offered you. No matter
how poor and humble the place, this courtesy is never omitted.
But we must realize that preparing tea as they do is a very
simple act, and it is drunk without cream or sugar. Along
the road are little resting-places at intervals where a tray
with tea and a few rice cakes are offered you, for which it
is customary to drop in the tray a coin the value of a cent.
You give a public lecture, and instead of the customary
pitcher of cold water and a glass, a tray with a teapot and
cup is placed upon your desk. At the University one man's
whole duty is to prepare tea for the teachers, and at inter
vals throughout the day he brings to your laboratory a tea
pot of hot tea. The tea is very mild, but always refreshing.
For centuries the Japanese have realized the danger of
drinking water in a country where the sewage is saved and
utilized on the farms and rice-fields.
A very attractive feature seen in the paper shops are the
envelopes and writing-paper. The envelopes are of compara
tively recent origin, having been adopted from abroad. For
merly there was, as with us before the invention of the

Fig. 605. Potter making Toy Houses
The potter rolls the clay into thin sheets, cuts the sheets into desired shapes and
unites them with wet clay

Fig. 606. Potter applying Liquid Glaze to Pottery

194 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
envelope, a definite and formal way of folding a letter. The
writing-paper is in long roUs, six inches or more in width.
The writing is in vertical lines and the lines begin at the right.
The writing is done with a brush, the India ink being rubbed
for the occasion. The roll forms the support upon which one
writes, beginning at the free end. As line after line is written
the paper is unrolled, and when the letter is finished the strip
may be five or six feet in length. It is then torn off and loosely
roUed up again, flattened by the fingers, and slipped into the
end of the envelope, which is a little longer than the roll and
two inches or more in width. The envelopes, and often the
paper, are made attractive by pretty designs in color, the
paper with the lightest suggestions of cherrj^ blossoms, petals,
pine needles, and even entire landscapes, all subdued in color
so that the writing is not interfered with. The envelopes have
more pronounced designs, generally around the margin so
as not to interfere with the address. One is amazed at the
infinite variety of designs. Many subjects are derived from
foreign objects, some of them prosaic to the last degree, yet
rendered attractive by these facile artists. Many of the de
signs are enigmatical unless one is famihar with the folklore
or mythology of the Japanese. Others reveal their meaning
at once, as a steaming teapot in the foreground, and in the
distance a railroad train or a shaft of lightning and a telegraph
pole, indications that the origin of the discoveries of steam
and electricity is understood.
My coUeague, Professor Mendenhall, has lately been in
terested in the speed of movements made by insects and
snafls. By carefully measuring the time made by a large

A VISIT TO OSAKA 195
species of snail, he found that it covers a mile in fourteen
days and eighteen minutes. He also estimated the speed of
a common species of ant, and found that in ordinary walk
ing the creature moved at the rate of one mfle in one day
and seven hours. These estimates are rough approximations.
The Japanese remember sacredly the anniversary of a
parent's death and observe it with appropriate ceremonies.
Even the anniversary of a grandparent's
death is remembered and observed,
fresh flowers and fruit offerings being
placed before the gravestone. The Bud
dhists also have a stated festival for the
dead. A curious form of lantern (fig.
607) is made for the occasion, and pic
tures over two hundred years old show
the same form of lantern.
A brief visit again to Osaka gave me
an opportunity of visiting a few of the
many places of interest. In this great
city is one of the largest bronze bells
in the world; and an ancient Buddhist
temple containing a gUded Buddha, said
to have been brought from Korea a
thousand years ago, and many other features of interest.
Alluring as all these places were I realized that they had
already been described in guidebooks or special memoirs, and
throughout the keeping of this journal I have endeavored to
sketch and record only those trifling matters so often over
looked by the student and traveler.

Fig. 607

196 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
No one should visit Osaka without inspecting the ruins of a
famous castle built by Hideyoshi in 1583. These ruins stand
on a high elevation, and in its time the castle must have been
well-nigh impregnable. In its second siege in 1615 it was over
thrown and burned, and the rounded edges of the huge blocks
of stone of which the walls are built attest to the intense heat
of the conflagration. I was permitted to roam about at pleas-

r.'ii

I

SU?.

Fig. 608

ure, and no one objected to the sketches I freely made. Figure
608 represents the highest portion of the castle; figure 609,
the outer wall. The large block in the centre is thirty-five
feet in length and ten or more feet in thickness and height.
The stones were brought from distances of fifty to a hun
dred miles in vessels, and the gigantic size of some of them
baffles the imagination as to how they were quarried, and it is
still more inexpUcable as to how they were transported and
dragged up to the high plateau on which the ruins stand.

THE CASTLE OF HIDEYOSHI 197
These enormous stones were put in place without steam der
ricks, hydraulic devices, or other of the appliances of to-day,
and yet the ancient Egyptians were performing simflar mir
acles twenty-five hundred years before. One hardly associates
colossal structures with the Japanese after becoming familiar
with their diminutive houses and gardens, the dainty dishes,
and the delicate and tiny objects associated with their life, and

Fig. 609

yet the Osaka castle is a marvel in the gigantic structure of its
walls. There are many instances of huge and ponderous struc
tures, as the giant bells in Kyoto and Osaka, the Dai Butsu
in Kamakura and Nara, and the great stone tori-i, but with
the exception of the old castles and castle walls and the great
temples, which tower above the dwellings as the cathedrals
dominate everything in Europe, the structures are usually
diminutive and delicate.
An exhibition of natural products and manufactures was
going on at Osaka, and it was filled with objects of various
kinds. The remarkable character of the people was seen in the

198 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
great number of devices which they have adopted from Amer
ica and Europe. The ability of a nation not only to recognize
immediately the convenience and usefulness of a device, but
to proceed to its adoption and manufacture, is an indication

Fig. 610
of the long civflization of the people. Only a high civflization
is capable of doing this; the savage and the barbarian are in
capable of it. At the exhibition were the remains of a boat
dug up near Osaka. The portion preserved was thirty-five
feet in length, four and a half feet in width, and two feet in
depth. It was made in two parts interlocking, with the wood
wrought into the bottom in such a manner as to leave trans
verse loops through which a bar passed to hold the two parts
together. It was very much decayed and the details of its
structure were hard to make out (figs. 610, 611, 612). It was

Fig. 611

supposed to be over a thousand years old. It is curious that
a boat divided into two portions may be seen to-day in Kago
shima Bay. (Fig. 568, p. 154, vol. ii.)

MOSQUITOES 199
The mosquitoes are a great scourge in Japan. The big,
square, box-like netting, already described, enables one to sit
inside with table and lamp, and in this way in summer and
fall I have been able to write.

Fig. 612
My children early adopted Japanese dress as being much
cooler in summer than their own form of dress. Many of the
Japanese teachers in the University, while adopting our form
of dress, as more convenient than theirs with the flowing
I sleeves and skirts, nevertheless find their own dress much
(Cooler in summer and warmer in winter, and always wear their
native costume during hot and cold spells.

CHAPTER XVIII
LECTURES AND SOCIAL FUNCTIONS
Have been hard at work preparing examination papers for
my class in zoology. This forenoon, I spent four solid hours in
examination, and I pitied the students, for during the whole
week they have stood examinations in chemistry, geology,
paleontology, and botany. These examinations are all in Eng
lish, a language they have fully to acquire before entering the
University. General Grant, on his way around the world, is now in
Japan with his wife, son, and Mr. Young the writer. The
Americans in Tokyo and Yokohama gave a dinner and recep
tion to him at Uyeno Park. I paid my subscription, but had
no special desire to go, having no time for such affairs. My
friends, however, urged me to do the proper thing, and so re
luctantly I attended the dinner. I was presented to General
Grant in turn with a long string of others, and despite my prej
udice admired the quiet, dignified, yet easy tone of his voice.
My daughter, who was with me, greatly enjoyed the affair.
General Grant spoke to her while she was standing near a
doorway, took hold of her hand, and introduced his son to her
with some witty remarks about his little boy, who was a six-
footer, big and robust. My prejudices, due to the infernal
slanders of our newspapers, were promptly swept away when
I watched the man. As others had brought their boys to the
reception, I got away quietly and hurried to Kaga Yashiki in

DINNER TO GENERAL GRANT 201
a jinrikisha, and had my boy, nine years old, awakened from a
sound sleep, dressed, and hurried to the reception, that he
might remember in after years that he had seen the great
General. 1 At the dinner General Grant did not touch a drop
of wine of any kind, and the stories of his intemperate hab
its, I was told, were gross exaggerations. His reception at the
College of Engineering was of the greatest interest. The royal
princesses in their archaic, yet beautiful court costumes; mem
bers of the Chinese Legation in their curious and rich clothing,
with their white, conical hats with red horsetail plumes pend
ent; the Koreans in their quaint garments, ceremonial belts,
and unique head-dresses; European officials wearing their
decorations — were all new and interesting to me. A number
of teachers from the Nobles' School, with a class of forty
young girls, were very attractive, They were all beautifully
dressed and excited much admiration from the foreigners, of
whom there were many. In the Japanese dress as seen in
masses the soft, harmonious colors and graceful folds form a
striking contrast to the dress of foreign ladies. I know of no
more perfect illustration of the artistic character of the people
than the grace and beauty of their clothing in strict harmony
with their short stature, and their jet-black hair wonderfully
arranged and ornamented. The contrast is immediately rec
ognized when they attempt our costume; their appearance is
sometimes shocking. The charming group of little girls and
their teachers stood near the centre of the hall in an innocent,
bewildered sort of way, somewhat abashed by the admiration
1 Later by a fortunate coincidence, we returned to San Francisco on the same
isteamer with General Grant and he taught my son how to play chess.

202 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
they excited. I got a Japanese to guide them to where General
Grant stood with others in receiving. Later I noticed that no
one helped them to the ice-cream and cake, so I got a Japanese
to assist me in bringing them refreshments. They were all
sitting in a row on the mats against the waU, and it was dififi
cult for them to hold the plate of ice-cream and cake in their
hands, and crumbs of cake naturally fell on the floor, A drop
of the melting cream would drip on their beautiful crape
dresses, and they would laugh and carefully remove the drop
with paper they carried with them. This paper was crumpled
up and stowed away in their pocket-like sleeves, and when
they finally got up to go the mats were carefully scrutinized
and every crumb gathered and wrapped in paper to be thrown
away later. It was a revelation to m^to realize that children
of nobles were taught such behavior,
I was invited to give a course of four lectures at the Nobles'
School, which only the children of nobles attend. Count
Tachibana, the Director, was a most charming man, and pa
tiently answered a hundred inquiries I made. Among other
questions I asked him if the Japanese were ever demonstra
tive in meeting after a long absence. I was led to ask this by
observing that the Japanese greeting seemed cold and formal,
no hearty handshake or hearty embrace. He told me that it
was not uncommon for Japanese nobles after a long absence
to greet each other with an embrace, and he, putting his arms
about my shoulder to illustrate, gave me an affectionate hug.
I may add that later I asked a dear Uttle boy (now a distin
guished lawyer and at one time Councillor of the Japanese
Embassy in Germany and in the United States), who called

A HUGE RELIEF MAP 203
me his "American papa," if his father never took him in his
arms on meeting him after an absence. "Never," he said.
"But how does he show his affection?" "He shows it in his
eyes." And afterwards I was present when his father, from a
distant town, came to my house and greeted the boy, his eyes
showing parental love in the tenderest manner.
The Nobles' School is a huge, two-storied, wooden building
with a front of two hundred feet or more, as barny and inartis
tic as many of the structures the Japanese have erected after
foreign models. At the ends are wings running backward a
hundred feet or more, and the enclosed ground space between
these wings is utilized in making a great map of Japan : the
ground built up like a relief map with mountain chains, rivers,
lakes, etc., the lakes filling with water and the water running
in the rivers when it rained; the top of Fuji painted white to
represent snow; short green grass for the levels and actual
rock for the mountains; and towns and vfllages indicated by
little tablets bearing the names of the places. The ocean is
represented by little gray pebbles which, reflecting the rays of
the sun, glisten like water. Across this beautiful and instruc
tive area black wires are stretched to indicate the degrees of
latitude and longitude. It was a pretty sight to see little girls
daintily walking across the pebbles to point out the town or
village in which they lived. The main island of Japan ran
across the area diagonally, and was over a hundred feet in
length. It was designed with the delicacy and precision which
characterize all Japanese work and was in a perfect state of
preservation despite the fact that it was in a school yard
of hundreds of pupfls. Again I could not help surmising in

204 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
what condition a similar device would be in a school yard at
home! It was in this school that I learned for the first time that
even the chfldren of nobles dressed in the simplest and plain
est of clothing. They were no better dressed than the school
children of the public schools from the primary to the high
schools, though this plainness of garb was in no way a school
uniform. My attention has slowly been drawn to this sim
plicity of clothing of school-children no matter of what grade
or class, and here at the Nobles' School I got an answer to my
query. Asking of Count Tachibana an explanation of this
method of simple dressing, he said it had always been the cus
tom in Japan for wealthy families to dress their children
plainly when they attended school so that the poor children
would not be ashamed of their own clothing! The same in
quiry was afterwards made in the great commercial city of
Osaka, with the same reply.
My last lecture at the Nobles' School was attended by
members of the Imperial family as well as by many nobles and
their families. Nobles indeed they were in their simplicity and
courtesy. The unaffected charm of manner was beyond ex
pression. It was an interesting experience, and though awk
ward at first, in that I had to lecture through an interpreter,
I finally got used to uttering a sentence at a time which my
interpreter. Professor Yatabe, repeated in Japanese. After
this last lecture a regular course dinner was given in our style,
and it was excellent. There were three hundred and fifty at
the dinner, and I quietly observed their movements and be-
haviojT. The subdued conversation, the modest acknowledg-

KNOWLEDGE OF NATURE 205
ments, the bows and concessions, were aU marked by extreme
simplicity and exquisite refinement.
I received an invitation to lecture before Mr. Fukuzawa's
famous school. Among the many distinguished men I have
met in Japan, Mr. Fukuzawa impressed me as one of the stur
diest in activity and intellect. I illustrated my lecture with
objects and drawings on the blackboard and endeavored to
explain to the students the simple factors of natural selection.
In every experience of this kind I have noticed how quickly
the Japanese grasp the points, and I soon realized the reason.
The Japanese are more familiar with the animals and plants of
their country than are we with ours; indeed, the familiarity of
the country boy with flowers, fungi, and insects and the like is
akin to that of those who coUect and study these objects in our
country. The country boy has common names for hundreds
of species of insects where our country boy has ten. I have
often been amazed at his knowledge of structural detail. An
experience I had with a little country boy wfll illustrate this.
I was showing him, with the aid of a pocket magnifier, a pecu
liar feature of an elater beetle which when placed on its back
jumps into the air. One has to examine the structure with a
lens. It consists of a projection on the last thoracic ring be
low, and this fits into a socket on the first abdominal segment.
The insect bends the thorax and the abdomen dorsally while
resting on its back; the projection comes out of the socket and
rests on the edge; and then, by bending the body ventrally,
the projection rests for a moment on the edge of the socket and
finaUy snaps in with a violent jerk causing the beetle to jump
into the air several inches. Now, I am sure that with us only

206 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
entomologists are famUiar with this structure; yet this Jap
anese country boy knew aU about it, and told me it was called
a rice-pounder, the spur or projection representing the pestle
and the cavity the mortar. The boy was delighted, however,
to see this structure magnified with a fine lens.
After the lecture Mr. Fukuzawa gave me a remarkable exhi
bition of fencing by the students. They were all dressed in
fencing armor. This consisted of a thickly wadded headpiece,
with lappets protecting the neck and heavy bars of iron in
front to protect the face, and a stiff jacket with arms and
shoulders additionally protected by polished pieces of bam
boo. The jacket had a skirt of several wadded lappets. The
foil was made up of slats of bamboo tied together with a han
dle long enough for the two hands to grasp as in the long
Japanese sword. The great blow is directly down upon the
head, and, with the hands holding the foil vertically, the push
ing of one hand forward at the same time the lower hand is
drawn backward brings the sword down with lightning-like
rapidity. The class was divided into two groups of fifty, the leader of
each class standing back with his retainers protecting him.
The leaders had tied on top of the hood a disk of soft pottery,
two and one half inches in diameter, with two holes for the
string, and the object was to smash the disk of the opponent.
The noise of the clash was terrific; the slats of bamboo made a
resounding whack, though the blows did no damage. Mr.
Fukuzawa called my attention to one of the boys who was the
son of a famous fencing-master. It was wonderful to see the
dash with which he penetrated the crowd and smashed the

FENCING MATCHES 207
pottery disk on the head of his opponent. The disk flew into
many fragments, and one could instantly see the result of the
combat. Though the boys wore long-sleeved gauntlets, many
came out of the fray with bruises and bleeding scratches on
their wrists.

CHAPTER XIX
japan in 1882
After an absence from Japan of two years and eight months
I arrived for the third time in Yokohama on June 5, 1882, and
again experienced the novelties of sounds, odors, and sights
which invariably impress the traveler. Doctor William Stur-
gis Bigelow, an ardent admirer and collector of Japanese art,
was my companion. It was ten o'clock at night when we
landed, but nevertheless, we ate a hearty meal after having
nearly starved to death on the steamer, and despite the rain
which was falling, started off for a brief walk. Crossing the
creek near the hotel we sauntered along the narrow road
known as Homura, bordered on both sides by little shops,
most of them closed. The people clattering along on their
wooden clogs, the flickering of lanterns, the curious hum of
voices within the houses, the odors of tea and cooked food, aU
were as interesting to me as if I were experiencing them for
the first time.
We went the next morning to Tokyo and by jinrikisha to
Kaga Yashiki, As the Ginza and Nihonbashi were torn up
for the construction of a horse railway, we rode through the
castle grounds, passing over the moat and along its side for a
while. As we rode through the Hongo it was delightful to
see that no changes had taken place. The watch-repairer on
the corner; the curious little dwarf with no chin; the fish-
chopper with hisrap-a-tap; the gold-beater with his monoton-

CHANGES OF THREE YEARS 209
ous pounding; the cooper and the straw-hat maker, — they
were all at work as I had left them nearly three years ago.
Great changes have taken place in Kaga Yashiki, Large sheds
are erected back of the house Dr, Murray used to occupy, in
preparation for laying the foundation of the University build
ing, Dr, Murray's house has had a large eU added to it, and
the building is to be a school for foreign music. An old teacher
of music in the Boston pubUc schools, Dr, Mason, has been
employed as instructor, and the work he has already accom
plished is little short of marvelous. He has worked with de
votion with his young pupils and the progress already made is
incredible. Foreigners find the greatest difficulty in learning
Japanese music, but apparently the Japanese children find
no difificulty in learning ours.
On the steamer coming over I had given three lectures on
Evolution, raising over fifty dollars for the benefit of thirteen
shipwrecked Japanese fishermen who had been rescued by the
United States steamer Pensacola and brought to San Fran
cisco, The officers had raised fifty dollars for them and pro
vided them with clothing. Dressed in blue, with hats bearing
the name Pensacola, they were an odd-looking lot. With Mr,
Tashiro, a Japanese merchant, who came on the same steamer,
we went to the money exchange and I converted my money
into Japanese paper currency, getting nearly ninety yen. We
then went to a Japanese inn where the shipwrecked men were
waiting to be transported to their native provinces. Mr,
Tashiro ascertained how many had families. By a tremendous
feat of mathematics I found that each man could be given
three yen, each wife two yen, and each chfld one yen. It was

210 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
delightful to witness the pleasure and gratitude they showed.
Though the amount was small, it was for each a month's earn
ings, or more,
A quest for pottery showed unexpected conditions, for
where formerly the bric-a-brac shops were fiUed with interest
ing pieces, now they are scarce; tea-jars, particularly, as the
cult of the tea ceremony has been revived, and tea-bowls, tea-
jars, and other utensils have come into use again. Further
more, in England and France, the collecting of Japanese pot
tery has become a craze, and a few in the United States have
begun to see the charm of Japanese pottery and even art
museums are beginning to appreciate these objects.
The dear little boy, Miyaoka, who bade me good-bye nearly
three years ago, came to see me to-night and I hardly knew
him. He was dressed in foreign clothes and had grown to
manhood. He had lost a little of his English and stuttered
slightly when embarrassed. When I visited the Museum the
next morning I found gathered in Director Kato's room a
number of the Japanese professors expecting me; Professors
Kikuchi, Mitsukuri, Yatabe, Toyama and Vice-Director
Hattori. Soon after. Dr. Kato came in. If warmth of hand
shaking and hearty voices betoken anything, it was evident
that they were as glad to greet me as I was to greet them.
The finest tea in Kutani cups and the best cigars were passed
around and we had a delightful time comparing notes. AU the
clerks bowed profoundly, the servants smfled a glad welcome,
and I felt that I had not been forgotten. With Professor Mi
tsukuri, who is Professor of Zoology, I entered the old labora
tory. My old servant, Matsu, fairly beamed with joy. Mr.

THE ZOOLOGICAL MUSEUM 211
Ishikawawas working away at some exquisite drawings; Mr.
Tanada, my former assistant, was on hand looking a little
older, but was the same faithful fellow. He has charge of the
Museum, and Matsu has become one of the ofiflcers of the col
lege with higher pay.
After looking about for a while we crossed the street to a
large two-storied building erected since I was here before.
This was the Zoological Museum. The last work I did before
I went home was to draw the plans of a two-storied building.
My plans had been carried out to the letter. Many new cases
had been built simflar to the first ones I made, and I must
confess to a feeling of gratification when I entered the main
haU to see a full-sized portrait of myself, neatly framed, hang
ing on one side of the main entrance, with the Director's por
trait on the other side. The artist who drew the pottery for
my Omori sheU mound memoir had made a fuU-sized portrait
from a small photograph, and had certainly got a good like
ness. The Museum was in far better condition than I had
expected to find it, though I can see that my help wiU brighten
it a little.
In the afternoon Dr, Bigelow and I were invited by Mr,
Takamine to dinner at his house at Koishikawa, Mr, Miyaoka
and his brother, Mr, Takenaka, coming for us to show us the
way. The house and garden were in pure Japanese style. One
room only was furnished with bed, high desk, tables, chairs,
and the like, as Mr, Takamine, a graduate of the Oswego
Normal School, found our ways more convenient. Among
other features of interest he had an archery range, I tried
shooting, but found the bow very awkward, as their method

212 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
of release with the arrow on the right of the bow is so different
from our method of shooting. He had also a croquet ground,
and his mother, a sweet old lady, and Takamine's brother
played. Young Mrs, Takamine is charming and very intelli
gent, speaking EngUsh fluently. About six o'clock dinner was
brought in for three, the ladies and boys acting as waiters.
It was a most delicious dinner in pure Japanese style, and it
was interesting to see how promptly Dr. Bigelow ate every
course with a genuine relish. Before we had finished our din
ner two beautiful kotos (Japanese harps) were brought in and
placed on the mats. One belonged to young Mrs. Takamine,
the other to her blind teacher, one of the most famous koto
players in Tokyo, Mrs. Takamine revealed herself as a skill
ful player. She then brought out a violin, and the blind
teacher tuned his koto to the scale of our music, the bridges
supporting the strings being moved up and down the instru
ment to bring it in tune with the violin. I wondered what kind
of an ear-destroying performance was coming, for it seemed
incredible that Mrs. Takamine should be able to make a true
note on so difificult an instrument as a violin. I was not pre
pared for the surprise that followed, for she played with great
strength and accuracy "Auld Lang Syne," "Home, Sweet
Home," and "Glorious Apollo," whfle the blind teacher played
an elaborate accompaniment on the koto, such as one might
play on the harp. Mrs. Takamine played without her notes,
and the bUnd player, of course, had never been able to see a
note ! The music was simple enough, but the perfect harmony
in the performance was what amazed me. Her violin instruc
tion covered only forty-seven days. I hardly knew which

VIOLIN AND KOTO 213
most to admire, Mrs. Takamine playing on a foreign and dif
ficult instrument or the koto player changing his instrument
and playing in a key and scale entirely foreign to him and
playing in a very elaborate manner. We stayed very late and
the experience was delightful.
June 10. At the dry-goods shop and at other places where
my children used to go I was immediately recognized, and
inquiries were made for 0 baa san, John san, and 0 Edie san.
Tatsu, my old jinrikisha man, with his little girl, called on me,
and the next day his wife came with a present of a box of cake
from Tatsu.
June 15, Attended the parting dinner given to Professors
Netto, Chaplin, and Houghton. The dinner was given in a
new buflding at Shiba Park known as the Koyokwan, be
longing to a club of Japanese. The rooms are very beautiful;
wonderful bits of old wood-carving have been worked into the
rooms in a very effective manner. The dinner was excellent as
all good Japanese dinners are. Before we were through some
old Japanese comic acting was introduced, one act being a
man fighting the spirit of a mosquito. Koto players gave
some curious music. (I was told by a Japanese that their word
for music, literally translated, meant " tone pleasure.") After
dinner the geisha girls danced and sang and the same old jug
gler that I saw here three years ago performed his tricks. When
I came away a box was given me which contained cake and
candy. The box, eight inches square, was made of thin white
wood and a little handle to the cover was cut out of green

214 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
bamboo (fig. 613), (I was told by Takamine that the bam
boo attained its growth in one year,)
I called on Ninagawa and it seemed to give him a melancholy
pleasure to see me. He appeared not a day older than when I
last saw him, I bought of him one hundred and twenty-seven
pieces of pottery, many very
rare, I attended a meeting
of the Biological Society at
the University, The society
has now thirty-eight mem
bers. I gave them a Uttle
talk on changes of fauna,
Mr, Ishikawa communicated
some facts regarding pro
tective coloring in Crustacea,
It was interesting to see
the society which I had es
tablished not only in exis
tence, but holding its regu
lar monthly meetings.
The University authorities have given me a little house just
back of the astronomical observatory. The house has two
rooms, one of which Dr, Bigelow has, and a large closet, and
accommodations for a Japanese servant and his wife. Back of
the house is the insane hospital, and we are luUed to sleep by
the songs of the maniacs, enlivened now and then by the
shrieks of some cases of acute mania.
By appointment my old jinrikisha man came for me to take
me to his home. He was neatly dressed, and though I sug-

Fig, 613

THE OLD JINRIKISHA MAN 215
gested going in my own jinrikisha, he leading the way, he
would not listen to it, but insisted upon taking me off in tri
umph for a ride of three mfles. He has a nice house, given to
him by his father, who lives in Owari, His wife and chfld were
dressed in their best, and cake, candy, and tea were offered me,
and I endeavored to show
my appreciation of their wel
come. Conversation is diffi
cult between persons who do
not speak each other's lan
guage, and so we had to con
verse with bows and smiles,
I was asked to remain to din
ner, but excused myself on ac
count of other appointments.
This evening I attended a
dinner in foreign style given
by the Japanese professors at
the Seiyoken, Dr, Bigelow
was also invited. Imagine
my surprise and delight when I found that they had invited
a number of my old friends. There were thirty-two present,
aU Japanese, and as I passed round the room, greeting each
one in turn, I was glad to find that not a single name had I
forgotten. One Japanese said that he had been associated
with his English professor for a year or more and the English
man could not call him by his right name yet! It was gratify
ing to find that all my old special students were professors
in the University, or in other coUeges, while my old assistant

Fig, 614

216

JAPAN DAY BY DAY

is now permanently engaged as an oflficer of the Museum.
Professor Toyama made the address of welcome in EngUsh;
Mr. Fujita, of the Hochi Shinbun (newspaper), made a speech
in Japanese. Mr. Kaneko, in his speech, directed part of it
to Dr. Bigelow, and the Doctor made his first after-dinner
speech in return. He urged the importance and necessity of

Fig. 615

the Japanese adhering to their own methods of drawing and
painting. It was certainly the most delightful experience I
ever had.
The construction of a house near by gives me the opportun
ity to watch every detail of the work. Mr. Greenough, a Bos
ton architect, on his way to India, tells me that the Japanese
way of mortising beams, curious as it is, is no better than the
method practiced by our carpenters. Certainly the Japanese
mortising is very complex in design, Mr, Greenough admired
the way the Japanese use the adze and would like to see more
of that kind of work in America, The Japanese tools seem
sharper than ours, and the planed surfaces of the woods are

V

(Character reversed on screen)
Fig. 616

MANNER OF FENCING 217
delightful to smooth with the hands. Dr, Bigelow called my
attention to the fact that in a Japanese saw the teeth are
small near the hand, but
increase in size toward the
end,i The roofing tiles are
bedded in dark, sticky mud
which is kneaded into balls
and is passed up from one
man to another till it
reaches the roof (fig. 614).
A few days ago a Japa
nese sword dealer, of whom
Dr. Bigelow had bought a
good many swords and sword-guards, offered to bring his
friends to the yashiki and show the Japanese style of fencing.
He came accompanied by a number of
famous fencers and wrestlers. It was an
interesting sight to see them grouped on
the grass in front of the house. A long
white curtain, decorated in black with
swords and Chinese characters, was hung
up as an awning, making a protection from
the oblique rays of the sun (fig. 615). The
characters and sketch (fig. 616) were re
peated on the screen. They fenced with
foils of bamboo, with spear and sword,
and with a weapon known as the " chain
scythe." This weapon was used in feudal times, and their
1 Details of house construction are given in Japanese Homes.

Fig. 617

Fig. 618

218 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
handling of it was very interesting to watch, A pecuUar kind
of wrestling caUed jujitsu was demonstrated, in which one was
taught how to kfll a
man in combat with
out the use of weapons.
In this method of wres
tling, a weaker man is
taught how to take ad
vantage of the efforts
of a stronger man. It
was impossible to get
any sketches of the
fencers so rapid were their movements, but a few outlines
were made of their weapons (fig, 617), The fencers stooped
opposite one another with their masks
on the ground. When their names
were announced they tied on their
masks (fig, 618) and banged away at
one another in lusty fashion, keeping
up a most infernal yelling at the same
time. These men had come to the ya
shiki expressly to demonstrate to for
eigners their various arts of fencing,
and their services were given gratui
tously. In making tea, if the tea is choice,
the teapot is first filled with water hot
from the kettle. The water is then poured away, and the
tea is immediately put in, and at the same time the cups are

Fig. 619

Method of making tea

219

filled with water. The tea becomes slightly moist in the
teapot from the steam which remains, and the water in the
cups is then poured into the teapot, and though lukewarm
a fine flavor is produced. Care is taken not to pour the tea
from the canister dii'ectly into the teapot, as the steam would
affect the tea in the canister. It must be taken out with a
scoop. Even the tea-scoops are dainty bits of art. Figure 619
represents a few forms. Miyaoka
whfle illustrating this process told
me that if a man had drunk too
much sak6 the night before, the tea
grounds of tea made in this way,
eaten with a little sauce, was an ex
cellent antidote.
On June 30 1 gave a pubUc lecture
under the auspices of the Biological
Society in a large haU recently built
in foreign style and having a capa
city for seating fifteen hundred per
sons. It was densely crowded when
I got there. Mr. Ariga acted as my interpreter, and my sub
ject was the antiquity of man with a sketch of the evidences
of his lowly origin. In my audience were several Buddhist
priests and one Korean. I saw many familiar faces, and it
seemed like getting back among old friends as they watched
me with kindly eyes. Many Japanese ladies were present.
Viscount Tanada and his wife, Ninagawa, and other anti
quarians and scholars. Figure 620 represents the ticket of
admission.

jBaii^

Fig. 620

220 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
The other night a number of Koreans came to the observa
tory with Mr. Dan, who had them in charge. I was presented
to them coUectively, and they immediately bowed and pre
sented their cards and we exchanged. The Koreans seemed
much interested in what they saw and were a fine-looking body
of men. Their dress was of silk and more like the Chinese than
the Japanese dress. Their hats, which were tied on with rib
bon behind the ears, terminating in a long pendant in front,
appeared to be made of mosquito netting, but were made of

Fig. 621
horsehair, and within could be seen their hair tied in a knot.
Their language sounded like a cross between that of the Japa
nese and Chinese. I talked with them through a Japanese in
terpreter who could not speak EngUsh, so I had first to converse
with Mr. Dan in EngUsh and he translated my words into Jap
anese, and the interpreter converted them into Korean. I also
talked to them directly with my limited knowledge of Japa
nese, for in their residence here they had picked up about
as much Japanese as I had. They shook hands cordially on
going away.
Figure 621 is a rough sketch of the house in which the jani
tor of the observatory and his wife reside. My room (fig. 622)

THE MEDICAL COLLEGE 221
is about twelve feet square, and in it I have a double bed, two
trunks, a desk, two bureaus, two chairs, and a washstand.
The bureaus are entirely covered with pottery, books, papers,
etc. One may imagine how I am crowded, and yet I enjoy
having things where I can Uterally lay my hands upon them.
Mr. Takenaka, who is a student in the Medical College,
which is carried on by German doctors, and where the instruc-

Fig. 622

tion is in German, is, of course, a good German scholar, but he
has learned English from his younger brother, Miyaoka. He
has given me many items of interest. The Medical CoUege
that he attends has for this year (1882) 1457 students, of
whom 397 are in the preparatory school; 159 are studying
medicine and surgery in German; 818 are studying medicine
and surgery in Japanese; and 83 are studying pharmacy. It is
really wonderful that the Japanese are so promptly giving up
the ancient practice of Chinese medicine and adopting what

222 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
their common sense teaches them is based on reason and sci
ence — remarkable in the fact that next to one's religious
beUef one clings to one's methods of medical practice, no
matter how absurd they may be.
Dr. Bigelow and I were invited to the house of Mr. Kik-
kawa, whose family runs back thirty generations. Mr.
Kikkawa was formerly Daimyo of the Province of Suo. He
has a large estate and five houses near the Meganebashi. A
large gate was swung open on our arrival and an attendant
escorted us ceremoniously through certain passages to rooms
where we were introduced to Mr. Kikkawa and to several
oflficers of the household. Then we were led upstairs to a
beautiful room having that simplicity of detail and absolute
cleanliness that characterize their house interiors. Mr. Naka-
wara acted as interpreter. In the recesses of the room were
most superb specimens of gold lacquer and rare old kakemono.
The guardian of the family — I suppose one might say the
steward — was a delightful spirit of the past. Compliments
were exchanged, and then, on our expressing a wish to see ex
amples of ancient swords, one after another was brought out,
each sword in a silk bag contained in a fine lacquer box on
which was the crest of the family in gold. The first one shown
was seven hundred years old and had been used by an ancient
Kikkawa in beheading some famous opponent. The scab
bard was of leather as was also the cord which bound the han
dle. Portions of this were reduced to powder by age and this
powder was wrapped in paper. This scabbard, handle, guard,
and other parts were laid out on the mats with great formal
ity and dignity, and we were invited to examine the blade.

OLD SWORDS 223
Other swords were shown us, and such magnificent blades I
never saw before. The Doctor went wild over them, but this
enthusiasm on both our parts was suppressed to the last de
gree. It was very interesting to see Mr. Kikkawa kneehng in
an immovable attitude and aU the attendants, never for a
moment forgetting their dignity, speaking in low, measured
tones with that interrupted and hesitating manner betokening
the utmost humility and awe.
We expressed a wish to see a beautiful piece of lacquer in
one of the recesses. The attendant who brought it rose from
his knees in one movement, reverently approached the piece,
knelt down before it, gently took it in his hands, rose again in
the same manner and with measured step approached us,
again knelt down, and deposited the box where we could
examine it. These attendants were all high samurai and have
their own attendants in Suo, where the Kikkawa family have
a residence, and at which place they have fine old pottery,
lacquer, and pictures which wiU be brought to Tokyo as soon
as the brick fireproof building is finished. We saw the buflding
on entering the gate.
During our visit servants came into the room at intervals
bearing in their partly outstretched arms the low bon, or tray,
containing delicious food. We had a most enjoyable time, and
realized that we had had a genuine glimpse of one of the many
interesting features of old Japan, When we came away we
were given a little souvenir of Suo, consisting of a thin wooden
box about four inches long lined with gold paper, across which
was a narrow strip of black cloth on which were pasted seven
caddis worm-cases (fig. 623) ! These common objects in our

224 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
streams are found in the river at Iwakuni. On the outside was
a picture of the wonderful wooden arched bridge with a curi
ous formula of trusses,
I was shown through the insane asylum near the house. It
was interesting to see the same expressions on the faces of
these unfortunate creatures that one may see in going through
our asylums at home, — dementia, melancholia, acute mania,
and other types of mental disease.

Fig. 623

We heard the most wonderful music of the flute by a Japa
nese court musician. The flute, much larger than ours, was
made of bamboo, and the number and position of the openings
were different from those in our flute. The enjoyment for us
consisted in the delicious contrasts between note after note.
The notes were long and of exquisite purity. It was a revela
tion to us. With harmony one gets these effects in our music,
but in Japanese music there is no harmony, only melody. In
the "Oratorio of St, Paul," our leader, Carl Zerrahn, always
became specially alert in anticipation of a delicious terminal
note in one phrase in the choral "To God on High,"
On July 2 I attended a public exhibition of the normal

OCCIDENTAL MUSIC 225
school classes that Mr, Mason has trained to sing in our meth
ods. The exhibition was in the old Chinese college, a fine haU
with good acoustic properties. Class after class came in and
sang various selections. The music was our common school
music, and therefore not very difficult, yet it was amazing to

Fig, 624
hear them sing in our way. Their voices lacked the vim and
snap that are characteristic of our school-chfldren, yet there
was no doubt that the Japanese could be taught to sing in
our way; whether it is desirable to engraft our musical meth
ods on them is another question. There was piano playing,
and some of it was remarkably good; also an orchestra of

226 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
vioUns, clarinet, flute, bass-viol, etc, which played "Glorious
Apollo," "Angel of Peace," "Men of Harlech," and other
compositions, and really did very well, Kosaka Sankishi, a
little boy of five years, scarcely large enough to reach the keys,
played some simple thing on the piano with remarkable
skill (fig, 624), His play
ing excited a good deal of
interest, and Mr, Mason
called him a Japanese
Mozart ! Figure 625 rep
resents him writing mu
sic on a black-board as
Mr, Mason played it on
the violin. The boy then
sang it, and it was re
markable to see how rap
idly he caught the notes.
He was so small that a
stool was needed to en
able him to reach the
blackboard, but he was a
bright little fellow, and when I showed him the rough sketches
I had made of him he seemed to appreciate them.
One morning my servant caUed my attention to a curious
procession of worms, evidently the maggot of some fly. They
were transparent or colorless larvse about a third of an inch long,
having black heads, and being very moist they were adhering
to one another and were crawUng in a long compact mass
across a smooth walk in front of my room. They glided over

Fig. 625

AN ENTOMOLOGICAL OBSERVATION 227
one another, and only in this way could they crawl over the
dry surface, and in no other way could they protect them
selves from the number of little yellow ants that hovered on
the flanks of the column. Now and then a worm got detached
from the column and the
ants immediately seized the
straggler and dragged it
away. If the forward end Fig. 626
of the column was dis
turbed, the entire column instantly stopped. I dug a long
ditch in front of the column, and it was interesting to observe
the leaders deploy in fan shape to feel for a place to cross.
Figure 626 shows a portion of the column, which was two feet
long, and figure 627 shows the head of the column deploying.
The column made its way slowly to the side of the house and
then disappeared in a crevice. It was evident that this method
 of traveling was a means of protection, for an
ant could not puU away an individual worm
from the mass,
July 5, I was invited to give a lecture before
the Japanese Fish Commission and had an
audience of intelligent Japanese, One of the
princes I had met at the Nobles' School was in attendance
and greeted me very kindly, I spoke of the work accom
plished by the fish commissions of Europe and America and
the success attending the artificial propagation of fish and
other marine forms,
Takenaka teUs me many items of interest. In mentioning
some of our proverbs or sayings he matched them with similar

228 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
ones in Japan; thus, "Every little helps, as the old woman said
when she tried to row a boat with a needle"; the Japanese say,
"To dip out the ocean with a shell," and also, "To make a
hole in a mountain with an awl"; and in describing a dense
crowd in a hall, "There was no room to put an awl to the
floor," Our saying, "Lock the barn door after the horse is
stolen," is paralleled by the Japanese saying, "Carry the
stick after the quarrel,"
In numbering the volumes of their books, besides the usual
1, 2, 3 the Japanese use other characters. For example, if
there are three volumes they use the characters for "above,"
"middle," "below"; if there are two volumes, "above" and
"below"; or for a work of three volumes they may use the
characters meaning "heaven," "earth," and "man"; two
volumes may be designated by characters meaning "north
west" and "northeast." It is customary in the case of a num
ber of volumes to preface the numbering by a character which
means "roll," as in ancient times the books were in form of
rolls; our word "volume" has the same origin. The Japanese
signs of the zodiac are called after the names of animals, as
with us. The compass is also divided into twelve points with
the signs of the zodiac; north, being "rat"; east, "rabbit";
south, "horse"; west, "birds." There are two intermediate
points between these greater ones, and for northeast they have
the name "bull-tiger."
The Japanese used to have many superstitions about buUd
ing a house that are still believed in by the lower classes,
Takenaka said that when he was a smaU boy and the family
moved to Tokyo, his father consulted a compass and found

TRAINED BIRDS 229
that a certain part of the house was not in the right direction,
and on account of this he after a while moved into another
house. This superstition has long been outgrown by the intel
ligent classes. It is a common matter when friends meet to
allude to the last time they met or to speak of a letter they
may have written to one another.
A region in Tokyo, known as Asakusa, is famous for its high
temple and avenue lined with toy shops and curious side
shows, and flocks of pigeons which alight upon you. The Doc
tor and I visited one of these shows. There was a little room

Fig. 628

with seats for thirty or forty persons, and a raised table, be
hind which were a number of small cages containing a peculiar
species of native bird smaller than our sparrow and very intel
ligent. The man who exhibited them had the kindest manner
and a most winning face, and seemed to have the most perfect
control over the birds. The little fellows were pecking away
at their cages impatient to come out and go through their
tricks. Some of them were remarkable. One wondered how
they could have been trained to do such things,
I made the most hasty sketches, which wiU, nevertheless,
present a better idea of the tricks than any descriptions could

230

JAPAN DAY BY DAY

do. In figure 628 the cages stood open opposite each other, a
foot apart, and a little toy horse stood between. In this trick
one bird jumps on the horse, whfle the other takes the reins in
his bill and drags the horse about the table by
a series of jerks. It was amusing to see the
prompt way in which the birds came out of
their cages and went through the trick. In
another trick (fig. 629) a bird hops up a ladder,
step by step, to a staging above and draws up
a bucket with his beak, holding on to the slack
string with his feet. In the next trick (fig, 630) four birds
come out of their respective cages, and three of them peck
away at the drums and samisens which are fixed to Uttle plat
forms, while the fourth tosses about some bells and jingling
affairs that lie upon the table. Of course no music is made nor

\ I

Fig. 629

Fig. 630

time, but a lively noise is kept up, and it is interesting to see
the birds go through their parts so eagerly.
In figure 631 a bird runs from its cage, mounts a flight of

TRAINED BIRDS 231
steps to a bell tower, and puUs the swinging stick so as to ring
the bell after Japanese fashion. Figure 632 represents a bird
shooting with a bow. What he really does is to detach the
string from a notch in the
stick which terminates in a
horse's head (a hobby horse
which is a common toy for
Japanese children). The ar
row is shot, however, and the
fan which forms the target
drops from its support.
In figure 633 a bird runs out
and pulls a string, which rings
a bell in front of a shrine.
The bird then runs to a box
, . , . . . ,, Fig. 631
and picking coins from the
table, drops them into the box. In Japanese churches, or
temples, a number of bells hang suspended above and cords

Fig. 632
hang down by them so that they may be struck by means
of the cord. Worshipers do this when they pray. The con-

232 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
tribution box, instead of being a small affair on the end of a
handle, passed around once a week, is a huge box, even four
or five feet long and two feet deep, open above, but protected

Fig. 633
by triangular shaped bars just wide enough apart to aUow
the metal coin to drop through. This box stands in front
of the place of worship year in
and year out, and a man may
stand in the street, mutter
his prayer, and toss his coin
into the box, often missing his
mark, as may be seen by the
number of coins on the earth
around. The most amazing trick is
shown in figure 634, in which a
bird picks from the table, one
after the other, three kake
mono and hangs them on pegs which are on miniature trees.
The bird is compelled to jump up on a low roost to reach

TRAINED BIRDS 233
the pegs. To teach a bird to perform such a series of acts
must have required an infinite amount of patience. In another
trick a little bird runs up a ladder to a platform and throws
off a number of coins, one after another, with
great energy. In stiU another a bird, holding an
umbrella over its head, runs up a long ladder and
walks out on a tight rope; it also picks out a cer
tain card and puts a cover on a box. The trainer
^., brought out a talking parrot and a
large parrot-like bird; then, holding
one in each hand, he made them utter
phrases alternately, such as, "How do
you do," "Good-bye," etc, in Japa
nese, of course. It was altogether the
most interesting exhibition of trained
animals I ever saw. Some of the tricks
were in Une with the natural movements of birds
in their daily life, such as picking up things,
pulling strings in nest-building; but how a bird
could be taught to pick up pictures and hang
them on appropriate pegs was more than we could
fathom. The Japanese candle is made of vegetable wax,
and there are a number of varieties; a kind made
in Aidsu has decorations in color (fig, 635), and
in some the figures are in relief. The wick con
sists of a hoUow tube of paper; the candlestick has a barb
of iron instead of a socket, and the opening in the wick be
low allows the barb to fit into it securely. Such a candle-

^'

Fig. 635

Fig. 636

234

JAPAN DAY BY DAY

stick, long extinct, was known in England as a "pricket"
candlestick. The candle is finished above with the wick pro
truding and pointed. The economy of this shape is seen when
the piece of candle burning
J\ low is taken off the pricket
and adjusted to the top of the
new candle, so that not a par
ticle of candle is wasted (fig.
636) , The ordinary candle has
the same diameter through
out, but in some of the finer forms the
upper part is much larger in diameter
than the rest and thus lasts longer in
burning. The lanterns, which nearly
every one carries at night, burn candles.
Figures 637, 638 and 639 show sketches
of various forms of candlesticks. ^ There
are many forms of portable candle-
holders, some quite ingenious in design;
also bamboo tubes with cover, so that
one can carry candles in his little pack
done up in a bundle handkerchief. (Fig,
639 represents fig, 638 folded,)
A curious form of weather-vane was
made of a thin sheet of metal in the
form of a pennant, painted and shaded as if fluttering in the
wind (fig. 640).

Fig. 638

1 At the Peabody Museum, Salem, is a large collection of Japanese candlesticks,
some of which are portable and fold up.

A KINDERGARTEN 235
July 15. I went to the graduating exercises of the Tokyo
Female Normal School, and was given a seat on the platform
in a position where I could see all the exercises. Before going
to the main hall I saw
the kindergarten children
with their pretty little
games of marching. It
was a charming sight to
see a hundred little girls,
all beautifully dressed,
their sleeves, in some
cases, touching the floor,
and so many with the
sweetest faces. After this
performance they went
into the main hall, where the children marched up the centre
aisle, keeping step with music played on the piano by Miss
Nagai, a graduate of Vassar CoUege, When they were seated,
their various names were called out by one of the teachers,
and each in turn came up to the platform to receive a pres
ent, which consisted of a roU of Japanese
paper of large size, a stick of ink and a brush,
done up in the neat way of the Japanese
present, with the noshi slipped in under the
cord that held it. When they approached,
a very low bow was made. On receiving the
present, which they did with both hands, they raised it to
their heads, made another deep bow, and backed away to the
steps. Such little tots came toddling along, and as some child

Fig. 639

Fig. 640

236 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
approached, particularly shy in her demeanor, it was interesting
to watch the pleased and sympathetic smiles of the company,
from the Prince and Princess, who sat on the stage, to the door
attendants. It was curious to look over the large haU and see
such a crowd of black heads, — no light hair, nor red, not
even a gray-headed one, — aU poUshed black hair beautifully
dressed with bright red crape and dancing hairpins, and a
background of attendant nurses standing up and peering
anxiously to find out the position of their individual charges.
The smaller children having retired, the larger girls came in,
and the bright-colored hairpins, like flowers sticking up here
and there, produced a very pretty effect in the sea of black.
The larger girls, as their names were called, came up the main
aisle very slowly and bowed low to the Prince and the Princess
and the assembled guests on the stage, then approached the
desk, made another low bow, received the present, which was
raised to the head in another bow, then slowly turned to the
left, and went back to their seats. Among these were a num
ber that were being graduated, and when they had received
the folded diploma they retired two steps backward, opened
the diploma with formality, quietly examined it, folded it
carefully, and then, holding it in the right hand in a peculiar
manner, bowed again and retired.
After the graduating exercises the audience strolled to vari
ous rooms where lunch was served in Japanese style. In a
Japanese room the graduates were served, and as I knew Miss
Nagai and young Mrs. Takamine, I crossed a garden to the
room where they were and ventured to join the class. It was a
pretty sight to see the girls sitting on the mats in two long rows

Fig. 641

TOKYO FEMALE NORMAL SCHOOL 237
facing each other, aU beautifully dressed and served by a num
ber of equally prettily dressed girls. I was invited to drink
sake with some of them, and many bowed to me whom I
did not remember having seen
before. During the exercises a
few of our songs were sung,
"Angel of Peace," "Auld Lang
Syne," the latter particularly
well; then a Japanese song was
sung accompanied by three ko
tos, three shos, and two biwas.
This song was sung by the entire
school. It was started by a young lady striking a long, flat,
thin piece of wood with another piece of the same shape at
right angles. The click was sharp and peculiar. She then
uttered a long, high note without the slightest inflection, as
a keynote, and the chorus began. The music was certainly
very weird and very impressive, and with the pecuUarly
sweet accompaniment and curi
ous rhythm, gave me an impres
sion of the merit of Japanese
music that I had never had be
fore. Their music sounded dis
tinguished as they sang it, com
pared with ours. Of course they
did not sing the best of our
music, or in the best way; nevertheless, here was a chance
for some one to secure ideas in regard to the power of music
in a new direction.

Fig. 642

238 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
In pounding rice a large wooden mortar is used. The ham
mer or pestle is of large size and very heavy and is raised high
above the head (fig. 641). The man wears a cushion on his left
leg against which the end of the handle rests as he raises the
hammer in the air. It requires a strong man to do the work.
The face of the hammer is hollowed deeply, with sharp edge,
and in the mortar is a thick ring of straw rope as shown in
figure 642. When the blow is given the rice is forced up outside
the ring and drops down inside. By this arrangement a cir
culation of the rice is secured so that all the rice in turn comes
under the blow of the hammer. This idea I have never seen
carried out in simflar processes before. A yellow dust, which
comes from rice after it is pounded, is tied in a bag and used
to wash the face. At home corn meal is used in a similar way.
This rice dust is also used to cleanse greasy dishes or lamps.

CHAPTER XX
OVERLAND TO KYOTO
July 16. I have been busy packing for our great trip
through the southern provinces, going overland to Kyoto and
then by steamer through the Inland Sea. My passport is made
out for at least a dozen provinces. Mr. Nakawara has brought
me a long letter from Mr. Kikkawa, introducing me to his
people in Iwakuni, Province of Suo. On the envelope was
written first the name of the place and province, then the name
of the person, and in one corner of the envelope the charac
ters, "Ordinary tidings," to signify that there is no bad news
in the letter. If these characters are omitted, then bad news
is expected and the recipient has time to compose himself.
We shall see a Uttle of the life of old Japan; I shall add a great
many specimens to my collection of pottery; Dr. Bigelow wfll
secure many forms of swords, guards, and lacquer; and Mr.
FenoUosa will increase his remarkable collection of pictures, so
that we shall have in the vicinity of Boston by far the greatest
collection of Japanese art in the world.
July 26. We started on our overland trip to Kyoto, having
a stage and three horses for conveyance. At Sammaibashi
we left the stage to ascend a steep mountain road paved with
irregular boulders in the steepest portions. FenoUosa and I
walked a distance of eight mfles to the village, whfle the Doc
tor and the rest of the party took kagos. The Doctor enjoyed

Fig. 643

240 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
this mode of traveling very much. At times the most charm
ing views came in sight. It was refreshing to get on one's legs
again for a good sturdy walk, for though portions of the road
were very steep we made good
time. It was interesting to ob
serve that our kago men kept
up with us the whole way —
though we walked rapidly —
and each man was support
ing nearly a hundred pounds,
counting the weight of the
kago and all. We met at in
tervals men carrying heavy loads on their shoulders travel
ing through the pass and walking rapidly too. They were on
their way to Odawara, twelve mfles distant. In every viUage
we passed there were some new forms of balcony, gateway, or
pretty interior, but it was impossible, going
over the ground so rapidly, to get more than
a few hasty outUnes. The road is so fre
quently traveled by foreigners going to pleas
ure resorts that the Japanese took no notice
of us. The children did not run away and
showed no timidity. Besides men of burden
on foot, horses with heavy pack-saddles and
enormous loads were being led by country
men. Figure 643 is a sketch of a pack-saddle not loaded, ex
cept with the owner's sun hat, raincoat, and a pair of straw
sandals; a clumsy cushioned affair passes under the tafl.
In a house where two rooms come together they are separ-

FiG. 644

Fig. 645

CABINET-WORK 241
ated only by sliding screens running in grooves in the floor and
a hanging partition; the space above this partition is usually
fflled in with an open device of lattice, carved wood, or designs
cut in stencil.^ The skiU and taste of these
designs and the perfect cabinet-work shown
were due to the fact that in the region
were many men employed in making in
laid work of colored woods. Hakone is a
great place for the manufacture of boxes,
cabinets of drawers, and the like, in which
pretty effects are produced by various patterns of colored
woods. The different woods are built up solidly in firmly
glued blocks, as shown in figure 644, and transverse slices are
cut off as seen in figure 645, and used with other forms to
decorate the cover of a box or the front of a drawer. These
drawings are half size.
Figure 646 shows the
man at work with his
glue-pot over a few
coals buried in ashes.
No end of intricate de
signs are made, and
the interesting feature
about it is that the man
seems to use only the
common tools of a house
carpenter. He sits on thfe floor and has for a bench a large
block of wood.
' This detail is called a ramma, and I f oimd many interesting forms which are
given in Japanese Homes.

Fig. 646

242 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
Our inn at Hakone is within a stone's throw of the lake and
beyond rises Fuji high above the mountains that border the
lake. We are two thousand feet above sea-level, the lake
water is cold and pure, and the air fresh and invigorating.
At every moment my pencil has been busy sketching pictur
esque places. Figure 647 is a sketch of one of the stronger

Fig. 647
kinds of fences to resist the high winds that come with the
typhoons. All along the road one sees spinning and weaving
going on in the houses. Figure 648 shows a woman weaving
coarse straw matting used for rice bags and for other rough
purposes. We started early in the morning for a kago ride of eight
miles. The descriptions of this form of transport do not at all
convey an idea of this method of conveyance. There are, in
the first place, three men to each kago, and they take turns
in the work. In my journal four years ago I made a sketch of
the ordinary kago used by the Japanese. Now at Hakone,

Fig. 648

KAGO TRAVEL 243
and probably at other places, a special kago, much longer and
heavier, is made for the foreigner. They travel with the kago
diagonally across the road (fig. 649). Changes are often made.
Thus, two men will start off tak
ing about ninety steps on a hill
and perhaps one hundred and
forty steps on a level, when they
wifl rest the kago on the bam
boo poles they carry with them,
and then change shoulders, tak
ing the same number of steps
again, when the spare man re
lieves the forward man; then,
after two more turns, the man that slipped out relieves the
rear one. Going downhill or on a level they proceed in a
sort of jolting run giving vent to a series of pe
culiar grunts. The weight each one carried was
a hundred pounds at least, and this for eight or
ten miles without a rest, uphill and down, showed
great strength and endurance.
It was difficult to keep an itinerary of the jour
ney overland. We lost the day of the week and
even the month. We had grand rides and tire
some ones, saw beautiful scenery, crossed long
bridges over wide and shaUow streams, stopped
at interesting tea-houses; and at all times re
ceived that courteous attention which charac
terizes this people above all others. We spent an hour or
so — or a day, as we did at Hamamatsu and at Shizuoka —

Fig. 649

244 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
in hunting up old pottery, pictures, and the like; at Na-
goya we stopped a few days. On our way across the coun
try we noticed that in the inns where we spent the night
the chambers were adorned with mottoes or sentiments,
which, when translated, were invariably found to refer to
the beauties of nature or were moral precepts or admoni
tions. Even in places where one may get sake the sentiments
expressed by these inscriptions are highly moral. I have
never seen a barroom in Japan, but, in seeing these refined
sentiments, moral precepts, and the like, I could not help re
calling a similar grade of country inns at home and the usual
character of pictures one sees in the public rooms. Many of
these sentiments are derived from Chinese classics. It is amaz
ing how much may be conveyed by four or five Chinese char
acters: here is one in five characters, "Facing water shame
swimming fish," which, fully rendered in our language, means,
"When we contemplate the water in which the fish are swim
ming with calmness and ease, we feel ashamed of ourselves
that we are such busy beings." How far this is correct I do not
know; the translation was made by our Japanese interpreter.
When we arrived at Shizuoka, Province of Suruga, an out
break of cholera was killing thirty or forty a day. The largest
inns were closed, and it was with difficulty that we obtained
entrance into one of them. The landlord said that if a death
from cholera occurred, it would greatly injure the reputation
of his hotel. We were promptly disinfected even before we
could get out of our jinrikisha. Everybody seemed to be pro
vided with a simple atomizer, consisting of a tin tube soldered
to the top of a small tin dipper, in which was put a weak solu-

AN OUTBREAK OF CHOLERA 245
tion of carbolic acid. We had been sprayed upon at other
places as if we brought the infection with us. At one place.
Dr. Bigelow said, a man standing at the entrance of a house
made a vigorous gesture at him as if to cut him down with a
sword. These hostfle demonstrations are of the rarest occur
rence. I have but once experienced a similar hostile gesture.
Walking with my daughter in Tokyo I passed three men who
were straggling slowly along. We did not know that it is con
sidered a rude thing to overtake and pass one without an apol
ogy. To resent our rudeness one of the men ran ahead and,
turning, blocked our way and swung an imaginary sword in
the air as if to cut us down. His two companions, laughing,
grabbed him and drew him away. The man was evidently
slightly intoxicated. Directly after the Doctor's experience,
when passing along a country road, two middle-aged and re
spectable-appearing Japanese bowed very low to us as we
passed by, and Mr. Ariga said the act was to show their re
spect for foreigners.
We spent two nights in Shizuoka and devoted the entire day
to collecting. I penetrated every place where objects might be
found, feeling no fear of the pestilence, being always careful
not to eat things which might bear cholera bacilli, or to drink
water, as, in fact, one rarely does in Japan. The next morning
early we started in a rude, lumbering stage without springs,
and had the toughest shaking-up imaginable; indeed, at noon,
when we reached the crest of a high range of hills, the
Doctor gave up the carriage in disgust, and I was only too
happy to follow his example. FenoUosa and Ariga went on,
and we snoozed until three in the afternoon and then hired

246 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
jinrikishas, each with two men, and had a grand ride to Ha
mamatsu, Totomi, where we spent the night. In the evening
we saw a curious dance by a lot of pilgrims on their way to the
top of Fuji. They occupied the large room in the hotel that
opened on the street, and formed a ring. Each one had a stiff
fan in his hand with which he beat time and then went through
a curious dance and chant, turning first one way and then
another, the circle moving partly around. It made a weird
and peculiar sight. The dancers evidently enjoyed our inter
est in their performance and I was invited to join them. Their
heads were tied up in white cloth, and before the dance I had
seen them in a room upstairs kneeling, praying, and chanting,
evidently rehearsing for Fuji.
After leaving cholera-infected Hamamatsu, somewhat de
pressed with the melancholy atmosphere, we came in our
journey to a steep ravine up which the men had hard work to
drag the jinrikishas. Halfway up we passed what was appar
ently a mountain brook tumbling down the sides of the ravine.
It was too much for FenoUosa and me to resist, and though
Dr. Bigelow urged us not to drink the water, we nevertheless
ventured on a few swallows and found it dead and unpalat
able. When we got to the top of the ravine imagine our horror
to find a wide expanse of rice-fields, the drainage of which was
our mountain brook !
Our next day's ride brought us to Toyohachi, and the next
morning we made a raid after pottery and secured a number
of good pieces. The following morning we left at eleven
o'clock and reached the great city of Nagoya in the evening.
Here we spent four days, Dr. Bigelow after lacquer and sword-

BUYING POTTERY IN NAGOYA 247
guards, Fenoflosa after pictures, and I ransacking every place
for pottery. A good-natured old feUow named Gonza, of whom
I bought a few pieces of pottery, became interested in my
quest and volunteered his services in showing us around the
city from one curio-dealer to another. Whether he got a com
mission on each purchase I do not know, but he carried our
parcels and beat down the price when he thought it was too
high, conducted us to places we should never have found but
for him, got dealers to come to our rooms with their treasures,
and at the end helped pack the pottery I had bought, which
fflled two large boxes that were shipped to Tokyo. At the
hotel where we stopped we had large tables and chairs, which
were of great convenience. The dealers were coming to our
rooms all the time, sometimes eight or ten at a time, spreading
out their stock in trade on the floor. Up to the last hour of our
stay we were buying things, and I made some fine additions
to the pottery collection.
Gonza took me to a friend of his on the outskirts of the town
who was the founder of an oven known as Fujimi, where I
spent the entire forenoon. Ceremonial tea was made for me,
the potter grinding the tea in my presence. He showed me his
collection of old pottery, in which were many good pieces,
drew a picture for me, and requested me to draw one for him
in return, and invited me to a formal cha-no-yu (tea ceremony)
the next day; so altogether we had an interesting time. I was
most kindly treated by the family, and on the veranda, where
I sat, a large, shallow, lacquered tub was placed filled with
cold water and over this I was fanned by the daughter. The
cool breeze thus made was very agreeable.

248

JAPAN DAY BY DAY

0Q0=

Fig. 650

The tea ceremony to which we had been invited was of such
interest that I made copious notes of the formalities, though
doubtless a number of details escaped me. The summer tea
room was a little house by itself about ten feet from the main
house. This Uttle building, fifteen feet square, was made ex
pressly for ceremonial tea and was extremely simple in all its
appointments. Between the tea-house and the main house
ran a stone path, at one side of which was a large stone recep
tacle fflled with water. It is neces
sary to describe these particulars in
order to appreciate the ceremonial
offering of powdered tea. A bell
 sounded, and we — that is Gonza,
— Kimura, and I — took our seats on
circular cushions on the veranda
facing the tea-room (marked A, in figure 650). The name of
the tea-house was on a long pottery tfle in four characters,
the Uteral translation of which is "wind, moon, clear, stall,"
which was fully translated to me as, "The little house as clean
and clear as the wind and moon !" (fig. 651). While we sat here
contemplating the house, a sliding screen in it was pushed
aside and the daughter Miki crept in on her hands and knees
and filled a lacquered wooden vessel from the stone water
basin and returned, closing the screen after her. When she
had first entered the tea-house she had walked a few steps on
the ground and had left her sandals resting one against the
other on the stone steps, as in figure 652. After a few minutes
we were bidden to go to the tea-house. Wooden sandals were
placed at our feet, and on these we hobbled along solemnly to

Fig. 651

A TEA CEREMONY 249
the stone urn, where the host stood and poured water on our
hands from a little wooden dipper and offered us a towel.
Havmg dried our hands we entered the house by opening
the screen and crawl
ing on our hands
and knees under the
lattice screen, which
was hanging halfway
down. We first crept
to the tokonoma (re
cess in room) and con
templated the kake
mono, which was ex
ceedingly plain; then we crept to the sunken fireplace, which
consisted of a triangular space in which were a few stones
on which rested a box of incense; and then back to the other
side of the room, where we adjusted ourselves in a row and
remained in silence. Some writers have described the cere
mony as a religious one on account of the solemnity and
austerity of the occasion. The room was of
the simplest character: the cefling made of
thin, wide ribbons of dark wood braided
like a mat, the corners and jogs of bamboo,
or of natural branches of wood, with a
warm brownish plastering. The simplicity
and absolute cleanliness of the room were remarkable,^
After a few moments the sliding screen opposite us was
gently pushed aside and Miki appeared bringing triangular
' This room is figured in Japanese Homes, p. 153.

^V \ V W

Fig. 652

^<*^ ^Q

Fig. 653

250 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
lacquer trays, one at a time. The various dishes were of the
finest description : the rice-dish was of pottery as was the large
rice-spoon; the sake pots were of metal richly wrought, and
the sake cups of fine lacquer. The rice was in one bowl, raw
fish with pickles in another, fried eels and melon in another,
miso soup and lily bulbs in another; and a covered dish was
filled with richest soup served in the very dish in which it was
cooked. The host in the main house, with his son, was being
served in the same way,
it not being proper for
him to be present dur
ing the serving of the
dinner. We could see
him, however, in plain sight across the veranda. Whfle we
were eating, the old man entered to drink sake with us.
We first drank sake with Miki, her father doing likewise.
There was no haisen in which to rinse the cup, but back and
forth it was passed on the little stand. After drinking with
the daughter we drank with the host. Then a very beauti
ful lacquer tray was offered, in which was a little pile of
cake and another in which were some vegetables; these I
was too busy sketching to taste. The cake was placed in
the cover of our rice bowl. After this the cake that was left
was wrapped in two packages, the daughter putting one
in her sleeve, the old man taking his in his hand, and both
retiring from the room. Hot water was then brought and
a little poured into each vessel from which we had eaten.
Courtesy should have compeUed me to eat the entire con
tents of each dish, but I was too hot to eat much, and was

A TEA CEREMONY 251
consequently spared the disagreeable necessity of drinking
dishwater and wiping my own dishes with paper, which the
others did and with great care. Every dish was thoroughly
cleaned and placed in the trays and removed one by one by
Miki. Then was brought in a lacquer box containing three
square pieces of jelly, which was served on beautiful square
lacquer trays (fig. 653). After eating the jelly with the single
chop-stick, it was proper to keep
this as a souvenir of the occasion.
While eating the jelly, Miki entered
with great formality bearing an iron
vessel (fig. 654) full of burning char
coal, and placed it piece by piece in
the sunken fireplace, using iron
chopsticks for the purpose; ^ she
then took a large feather which hung
on a little peg, and kneeling in the opening by which she
entered, carefully swept the mat and retired, closing the
screens. One of our company then took up the little trays
and carried them to the opening by which Miki had entered.
Just before this, however, Miki brought in an iron kettle and
placed it on the coals. The old man in the mean time showed
us the incense box which we were to inspect and sniff. Here
we rose to our feet and walked out on the veranda, stepped
into our sandals, washed our hands at the urn, and then
crossed to our host's house, where we rested, smoked, and I
got a drink of cold water warranted free from all pathogenic
bacteria, ' These are called hashi, and represent our tongs.

252 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
After a while another gong was struck, much deeper in
sound than the first one, and we went through the same for-
maUty of washing our hands and crawling into the tea-room.
The kakemono had been removed, and in its place was a sim
ple vase holding some flowers arranged as only these people
know how to arrange them. Miki then appeared bearing the
tea-bowl, and as she brought in the various utensfls, one after
the other, she pushed aside the screen, being on her knees.
She then rose fonftally and walked straight through the open
ing, turned squarely round,
facing the fireplace, walked a
step toward it, paused and
looked ahead in an absent-
FiQ_ 655 minded way, then knelt and
reverently deposited the ob
jects on the mat. She rose without touching her hands to
the floor and retired in the same moderate manner. After
the bowl had been brought in, she brought in a delicate bam
boo dipper. I should have mentioned that when we entered
the room the water-vessel and the jar had already been placed
in their proper positions. At this stage the objects appeared
as in figure 655. The tea-jar was untied and the bag pushed
down on each side by the edge of the hand; the bag was then
hung on the peg from which hung the feather duster. Water
was dipped out of the kettle, poured into the tea-bowl, and
by a rotary movement of the tea-stirrer (fig. 656) and a cir
cular movement round the bowl at the same time, the bowl
and the stirrer were both washed ; the bowl was then wiped
with a piece of white cotton cloth and this act was performed

A TEA CEREMONY 253
in a certain way. Not a word was spoken during all this
performance. A slender bamboo spoon was then used in
scooping out the powdered tea from the tea-jar. Miki, hav
ing taken out the customary three teaspoonfuls, was about
to stop when her father said in an undertone "More," and
"Still more," and several times tifl she had put a lot of the
tea in the bowl. We sat facing her in a semi-circle, I on the
extreme left, then Gonza, next Kimura, and then
our host. The water was then added and stirred
briskly, though every movement was made with
extreme formality. The host then approached the
daughter on his knees, took the bowl with a pro
found bow, crawled along to me, and presented the
bowl with another deep bow. The tea was like the
thickest, green syrup, and was delicious. I took a
swallow, wiped the edge of the bowl, where my lips
had touched, with my fmger, and, not having a roll of paper,
wiped my finger on my coat inside, then turned the bowl in
such a way that, when it was passed to the next one his
mouth should strike a clean place on the rim. At this point
it was my duty to inquire of the host what tea it was, which
I did, and he gave me the name.^ It was actually made by
a noted man and was considered the most precious tea in
Japan. The cup went from one to another till it reached the
host, who finished what remained, and this he did kneeling
upright as if in the attitude of prayer, with a most beatific
countenance, smacking his lips with great gusto. After he
' The tea was called Hatsumu kashi, and was raised in Uji, near Kyoto; the style,
or school, of the tea-making was that of Rikiu, in the time of Taiko.

254 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
had drunk the tea he wiped the bowl in such a way as to
leave a pointed oval area in the bottom. The bowl was then
passed round and commented upon, as it was a rare old speci
men. After this the girl took out all the utensils and the old man
brought in the boxes that held the various objects and we
examined them. Some of the boxes were lacquered with the
name of the object, potterj^ and maker in gflt letters; the
plain wooden boxes were marked in black with the seal of
the maker in red. While showing them to us the host said that
when in use they become "tiger," and when not in use
they become "rat," meaning that when in use they become
useful like the tiger and when not in use valueless as a rat.
On the afternoon of the last day we visited the castle of
Nagoya, one of the best-preserved castles in Japan. It stands
one hundred and fifty feet high, the walls are massive, the
rooms unmense. It was built in 1610-12, and towers up far
above the surroundings, and one gets grand views from the
window openings. It is surrounded by massive stone walls and
deep moats. The buildings surrounding it have spacious
rooms, and the sliding screens have been decorated by the
most celebrated artists of the period and the wood-carvings
have been done by famous wood-carvers. In one room was
a model of the castle about seven feet high. It was very inter
esting, as it was made as a model to follow before the castle
itself was built.
Figure 657 is a hasty sketch I made while waiting for the
sentry to carry our cards to the authorities within. The
sketch gives the merest idea of its appearance. The massive-

THE CASTLE OF NAGOYA 255
ness and grandeur of the buflding are remarkable. Architec
turally it impresses one as marvelous, with its succession of
upturned roofs and successive gables, massive copper tfles,
heavy ribs to the roof angles, imposing sweeps of the great
roofs, and on the ends of the highest ridge immense bronze
dolphins covered with scales of pure gold, resplendent in the
sun. The gold represents a value of nearly a third of a million
dollars. We were led to the main cas
tle through heavy, walled, passage
ways and up broad stone stairways.
We entered through heavy doors, and
found ourselves in a vast room where
ponderous beams in walls and ceilings
revealed the strength of such struc
tures in feudal times. We ascended
flight after flight of stairs, landing at the head of each flight
in wide, low rooms of massive construction, and came to the
upper rooms, having climbed one hundred and twelve high
steps, not counting the flights of stone steps and inclines we
met with in approaching the entrance. From the windows
of the upper hall we had a comprehensive and charming
view of the country. A delicious breeze poured through the
place which, after our hot climb, was very grateful.
We left the castle reluctantly and hurried back to the hotel
to pack for our start to Kyoto at seven o'clock. Our jinriki
shas dragged slowly along, but the scenery, briUiant sunset,
and rest were delightful. At nine o'clock we came to a river
and for five miles were rowed tranquilly over its quiet waters.
Our landing-place was to be Yokkaichi, a place famous for its

256 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
pottery, known as Banko. The place was briUiantiy Ulumi
nated and in the distance looked like a New England town.
As we landed on the stone slope we found a festival of some
kind was going on. The shore was lined with booths provid
ing ices, and we sat down on a bench and were served several
times. The ice is planed, the plane being upside down and
fixed, A chunk of ice is moved back and forth over the plane, a
dish underneath catching the shavings, so to speak; a little
sugar is added and a flavoring of powdered tea, and it made a
very cooling refreshment. It was an approach to our boyhood
snow ice-cream. Though ice is very high, sixteen to twenty
cents a pound, this article is sold for a cent a glass. In poorer
quarters of our cities a simflar custom might be introduced.
Owing to the festival the town was crowded and every
hotel full, so we were compelled to ride on to the next town,
starting at 2,30 in the morning, and the cocks were beginning
to crow and dawn was breaking when we reached our resting-
place. We were completely tired out, and were glad to lie
down in a mean little inn for a few hours' sleep, I was up at
eight, and after a breakfast of poor rice started back to
Yokkaichi to find out how the hand-made Banko pottery was
made, I came across the famous Hansuke, who cleverly
moulds clay with his fingers alone and produces a beautiful
Uttie teapot, I made full notes and sketches of the potter.
At 2.30 we started again, having a most picturesque ride
up a mountain ravine and, still in the Province of Ise, reached
Sakanoshita in the midst of mountain scenery. Here we spent
the night, and the next morning, with two men to a jinrikisha,
went rapidly along, reaching Otsu at 2.30 and Kyoto at 4.30.

A CHARMING HOTEL 257
We rode immediately to Ya-Ami Hotel, situated high up on
the mountain-side overlooking the entire city. The hotel,
though Japanese, is kept in foreign style, and a rare beefsteak,
baked potatoes and a cup of good coffee were delicious after
the varied Japanese meals we had had. The building in which
we are is approached by a long incline and a flight of steps, and
is tiresome enough to reach. The rooms are good, with spa
cious verandas and charming surroundings. I have a tiny

Fig. 658
house of one room to myself; a little arched bridge leads to it
from the veranda (fig. 658) and a mass of shrubbery comes up
level with the floor. My skefch-book is full of sUding screens,
lattice-work, framework of window openings, and beautiful
rammas. The grace and beauty of these designs it is unpos-
sible to show in offhand sketches. The stencil-cutting in thin
wood is perfection: the dashing waves, with curious shepherd-
crook processes and individual drops poised in the air, and
appearing conventional to the last degree, show precisely the
appearance the waves present in instantaneous photography.
What amazes you in traveling through the country covering

Fig. 659

258 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
hundreds of mfles is, that in the most remote country villages
there are carpenters and cabinet-makers and designers who
are suflficiently skilled to do these things.
In many houses one sees swallows' nests built near the ceil
ing in the best rooms. As soon as the bird begins his nest a
smaU shelf is fastened beneath to prevent the mud that is apt
to drop in construction from soiling the mats (fig. 659). It
was interesting to observe
that the birds build a more
delicate and elaborate nest
under cover than when built
outside exposed to the ele
ments; indeed, it would al
most seem that the birds recognized the tastes of the people
with whom they live.
It was interesting to note the change in the structure of the
ridge on the thatched roof as we passed through the Provinces
of Suruga, Mikawa, and Owari. I saw men engaged in mend
ing a thatched roof black with soot that came from the kitchen
within. The skfllful way in which the modeler in plaster elabo
rates a ridge is interesting.
During the day we crossed a river where a number of men
were engaged in making boats. I noticed two men pounding
the edge of a boat's plank with iron hammers, pounding the
grain down, so to speak, so that when the plank was fitted to
the next plank the crushed edge would swell when wet and
thus make a tight joint.
The city of Kyoto is certainly the artistic centre of artistic
Japan. Everywhere you see evidences of it — in the shops.

ARTISTIC KYOTO 259
houses, fences, roof-tops, window-openings, sliding screens
and the devices for sliding them, trellises, balcony rails. The
very advertisements are designed with taste — art and refine
ment are everywhere. Moreover, I have seen no place in
Japan where the girls and little children are more prettily
dressed. The hair arrangement is remarkable, and the crape
for the obi and the adornment of the head is resplendent. Our
hotel is placed on the slope of a mountain amidst trees and

Fig. 660
Buddhist temples. From this vantage-ground one sees at
sundown the wonderful effects of sunlight across the city; at
evening are heard the sound of singing voices and the notes of
the koto, with merry laughter. Loiid declaiming is heard,
whfle intermingled with all comes the drowsy hum of the
priests at their devotions near by; indeed, the sounds the
priests emit in their prayers can with difficulty be distinguished
from the hum of insects. Last night, in connection with the
priestly chants, I heard a rapid tap, or ring, which sounded

Fig, 661

260 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
precisely like an insect I had heard at Enoshima, and which
was there called the bell insect. As the higher the tempera
ture the more rapid the notes of these stridulating insects, out
came my watch, and I counted the beats at thirty-five per
quarter of a minute. Before seeking a thermometer, how
ever, I asked a servant what kind of an insect it was that was
making the sound and he told me that the
sound was made by a priest's bell!
Through the city runs a wide, shaUow
river. At this time the water is low and the
river-bed is exposed in many places, showing
large, flattened boulders. These large areas
are covered with low tables, a foot high and big enough for
one mat, sometimes two. The Japanese hire these tables and
a large party will place them side by side. Here famihes
gather in the evening to drink their tea, eat their supper, and
enjoy the sunset. From the bridges crossing the river the
sight is of wonderful beauty, as every
stand is illuminated with a number
of bright-colored lanterns, and it is
a sea of color as far as the eye can
reach, with here and there bonfires
kindled on the dry river-bottom,
Mr. Greenough, who is with us, says
it rivals a carnival scene at Venice,
To-day (August 8) I visited the
artist Bairei to employ him to make
a copy of a picture he had painted for Rokubei, the potter,
illustrating the process of pottery-making. I found Mr.

Fig. 662

AN ART SCHOOL 261
Bairei, who is a teacher, in the midst of a class of pupils, who
were busy with their work, all on the floor with their copies
in front of them (fig. 660), many of them being boys of twelve
or younger. Some of the older pupfls, he told me, had been
with him for ten years. The pupfls come at eight o'clock in the
morning, leaving at noon in the summer and at 5 p.m. in the
winter, every day except Sun
day, which has lately become
a holiday. The price of tui
tion is thirty cents a month,
and the teacher supplies pa
per, brushes, ink, colors, etc.
In three years the pupils learn
to copy well. The first les
sons consist of simple lines,
diaper work, and the hke. The next year they paint flowers;
after that mountains and scenery; and finally figures, first
drawing drapery, then the nude figure from life. Some of the
pupils come from the artisan class, such as potters and others
whose occupations demand designs or
decoration; the other pupils come
from the samurai class. Mr. Bairei has
twenty pupfls in his daily class, besides
a few who practice at their houses and
bring their work to him once a week
for criticism. After an interesting in
terview I rose from my knees. All the
pupfls immediately bowed low, and at
the same time Mr. Bairei presented me with a large roll of

Fig. 663

Fig. 664

262 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
paper which consisted of the exercises of the school for that
day: beautiful drawings in strong, vigorous brush strokes of
flowers, fruit, and boats. These drawings illustrate better
than afl the descriptions the methods of teaching and the
proficiency of the young Japanese. With the tea was offered
a dainty basket of candy in the form of cherry blossoms (fig.
661). With us it is customary to mark on boxes containing fragile
objects the word "glass," and in Europe to make a drawing of
a wineglass to show the brittle nature of the contents. In
Japan the packer ties a pearl shell {Haliotis) to the box; as
shown in figure 662, a drawing of the shell is also made on the
box. At a little shop where I stopped to examine the pottery, a
peculiarly shaped vessel was offered me containing something
like spaghetti, the strings more the size of cotton twine. It
was very difficult to eat, as in taking one strand out of the
dish it would stretch two or more feet before it could be wound
up on the chopstick. A little cup contained the sauce. It was
caUed hiyamugi. The vessel containing it was said to be
Chinese (fig. 663). While I was eating the food the little
daughter of the shopkeeper played to me on a kind of guitar
(fig. 664).

CHAPTER XXI
THE INLAND SEA
We left Kyoto on the 10th of August on our way to the
Inland Sea, and spent two days at Osaka, where we met Mr.
FenoUosa and Mr. Ariga, hunting up pottery and pictures.
A carnival being in action on the river the Doctor hired a big
boat with dancing-girls and food, fireworks, etc. We invited
Mr. Greenough to join us. It was a lovely night, and the river
presented a scene of gayety. The pleasure boats are prettily
built, with broad, wide floors to sit upon, perfectly dry, and the
hundreds of merry groups slowly passing back and forth, with
the sound of samisen and koto, singing and laughter, and the
innumerable bright-colored lanterns, made a scene not easily
effaced from the memory. Nearly every town in our country
has a river, bay, pond, or lake. Why can't our people indulge
in similar holidays? Such assemblies on the water are possi
ble, however, only in countries of good manners.
We left Kyoto at five o'clock in the morning in a little
steamer for Hiroshima, Province of Aki. We had a good-sized
room all to ourselves on one side of the boat. The boat being
built for Japanese stature was extremely low in height of
rooms and passages, and we bumped our heads continually in
moving about. Most of our time was spent on deck admiring
the beautiful scenery. We arrived off Hiroshima at six in the
evening, and then, taking a boat in waiting for us, we had a
pull of over an hour, or rather our boatman poled most of the

264 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
way over shallow water, to the mouth of the river. It was a
wide, shallow expanse of water, and we slowly moved along,
passing under stately pUed bridges, one after the other. The
banks of the river on both sides were lined with well-made
high stone waUs surmounted by fureproof bufldings, mostly
painted black. Few people were seen despite the early hour in
the evening, few lanterns were lighted, and there was no com
merce on the river. The appearance gave us a very oppressive,
gloomy feeling. The contrast between the commercial activ
ity of Osaka and this sombre place was marked in the extreme.
Here was a city of a hundred thousand people — apparently
dead, as the cholera was raging. It was some time before we
found an inn. The one to which we had been recommended
had just lost its landlord by cholera, so we sat in our boat for
an hour with hungry stomachs and tired bodies, depressed to
the last degree by the long row of black bufldings, tall, gaunt
bridges, and the deathlike sflence everywhere. Finally, an
inn having been found that would accommodate us, we started
down the river and across to the other side and landed, as it
were, at the back side of the inn. Baggage was got out of the
boat, and the ascent of a flight of stone steps and a walk
through a long, dark, narrow lane brought us to the neatest
and cleanest hotel we had yet encountered. FenoUosa and
Ariga, hearing of a restaurant in foreign style, left us for what
they thought would be better food, while the Doctor and I
took our chances with the native food and had a first-rate
supper. The next morning I started off early to ransack the old
pottery shops. A Japanese at the hotel became interested in

HONESTY OF THE PEOPLE 265
my quest, and was very kind in conducting me to all dealers
likely to have the objects I wanted. He also told them to get
together what they could and bring them to the hotel for my
inspection. The result was that a continual stream of dealers
with good, bad, and indifferent things streamed into our rooms
for the rest of the day. FenoUosa, being disgusted with the
so-called foreign food of the night before, lost all interest in
Hiroshuna and our intended visit to Miyajima and Iwakuni,
and with Ariga started back to Osaka and Kyoto. On the 15th
of August Dr. Bigelow and I started in a clean new Japanese
junk for a sail through the Inland Sea. Before leaving the
hotel it occurred to me that a Japanese junk was about as un
stable a craft as was ever built, and that if we feU overboard
my watch would be ruined. I also realized that, as we were to
be the guests of the Japanese in Iwakuni, it was not necessary
to carry along much money. So I asked the landlord if he
would take care of my watch and money until I returned, and
he pleasantly agreed to do so. A servant came to my room
bringing a shaUow lacquer tray without cover, telling me it
was to hold my possessions. These things were then deposited
in the tray which she held out to me, and placing the tray on
the floor she went away. I waited for a while impatiently,
supposing, of course, that she intended taking them to the
landlord, who would protect them in some way. The girl not
returning, I called her, asking why she left the tray. It was all
right there, she said, I called the landlord, and he also said it
was perfectly safe where it was, that he had no safe or other
receptacle for such things. Realizing the honesty of the peo
ple in the fact that I had never seen a lock, key, or bolt on any

266 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
sliding screen in Japan, I resolved to risk the experiment, so
left eighty dollars in silver and bills and my gold watch in an
open tray in a room which was probably occupied a dozen
times during my absence and to which access could be had by
every domestic and guest in the house. We were off for a
week's trip, yet on my return every bit of change to the last
cent, and the watch, of course, were in the open tray as I had
left them. When one recalls the warnings and admonitions in
printed notices on the doors of American and English inns
in comparison with this experience, one is compelled to admit
the innate honesty of these people, and this is only one of the
many examples I could cite. It must amuse a Japanese when
he visits our country to see dippers chained to the fountain,
thermometers screwed to the wall, doormats fastened to the
steps, and inside every hotel various devices to prevent the
stealing of soap and towels.
Returning to our junk : we had a crew of four men and a boy,
and a boy from the inn to help matters. We were fortunate
in securing the services of Mr, Tahara, an old student of mine
at the University, who became our interpreter and accompan
ied us. At times the wind died out and the men rowed with long
clumsy oars. The experience was unique, sailing in a Japanese
junk through one of the most picturesque and beautiful wa
terways in the world, I fairly enjoyed the rapturous comfort
the Doctor seemed to take as he sat on the roof of the cabin.
Leaning back against a pfle of matting with a box of Manila
cigars by his side, he held his post the entire day, either doz
ing or admiring the varied scenery, which was indeed beau
tiful. As we passed Miyajima Mr. Tahara told us many in-

THE INLAND SEA 267
teresting facts about the island. We saw on the shore a large
Shinto temple with the tide running under the corridors and,
rising from the water, a colossal tori-i whose base is immersed
at half tide, all having been originally built high and dry some
distance from the shore. The effect is striking, for the island,
except for the beach, rises precipitously from the water, with
mountains of considerable height and great abruptness. One
gets an idea of the stupendous convulsions that within com
paratively recent times have caused this depression of the
coast-line. Everywhere along the coast one sees these evi
dences of elevation and depression.
During the evening we had a breeze which finally brought
us to a little fishing village, where we landed at ten o'clock at
night. Our host had had a man there afl day in anticipation
of our arrival, and he was on hand to greet us with many bows,
and jinrikishas with two men for each one. After some delay
with the baggage we were off for Iwakuni, which lay in a beau
tiful valley some miles distant. It was such a balmy night, —
everything looked so strange, the palms and palmettos, the
odor of semi-tropical vegetation, and the men running and
yelling like mad ! It was delightful, after being cooped up all
day in the junk. It was an experience never to be forgotten.
We entered the village of Iwakuni with people stfll awake
and evidently expecting us, as they lined the street and stared
at us in a way that I had not seen before. We were told that
the last foreigner seen in town was seven years before our
arrival. One has a curious mixture of emotions at being de
liberately stared at by a crowd ; in a way, it is embarrassing,
ReaUzing that every movement is watched, you feel how ab-

268 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
surd or inexplicable some of your movements must be to the
starers. You try to affect indifference, and yet you are con
scious of an added dignity and unportance at being stared at.
You are guilty of performing acts specially to excite their
attention, such as turning your pockets inside out in search of
something, for a pocket in Japanese clothing is as unknown to .
them as it is to a woman nowadays; you raise a laugh by some
gesture of annoyance; sometimes you find you are making a
fool of yourself, when all the time the effort is to appear calm
and natural, Mr, Kikkawa's agent conducted us to a private
hotel, in which in olden times the daimyo's guests alone were
received and cared for, and now it had been opened for us and
beautiful old screens and kakemono had been brought down
from the prince's treasures and displayed in the rooms we were
to occupy, A delicious supper was served to us, and at one
o'clock at night we went to bed. From the openings between
the shoji I peered out and saw a large booth dimly Uluminated
in which a theatre was in action, A number of other booths
were seen, and cries of hucksters indicated that some kind of a
fair or festival was in progress, and beyond and above was
total darkness.
The scene that greeted us in the morning as we pushed back
the shoji was surpassingly beautiful. We looked out on a broad
river-bed whose bottom of smooth stones and pebbles was
perfectly bare, and beyond rose picturesque mountains, while
to the right was the famous arched truss bridge of which no
description can convey an idea. After breakfast the various
oflficers in the employ of Mr, Kikkawa came to pay their re
spects, among them Mr. Misu, the agent of a prunitive cotton

A GLIMPSE OF OLD JAPAN 269
factory that Mr. Kikkawa has estabUshed here, a perfect type
of the old loyal retainer with a face such as one sees in some of
the old prints; Mr. Kikkawa, a distant relation of the family,
who looks after things generally, with a smiling, genial, and
most hospitable face; and many others whose names it is im
possible to recall, and all most attentive to our comfort. They
were, of course, in their native dress, and perfect their dresses
were. Indeed, not a foreign notion or scrap did we see during
our whole visit, and had they worn swords we should have
seen Japan as it was in feudal times. It was all there except
the swords: manners, customs, courtesies, and all, and it was
idyllic. In the morning we went through the town looking up bric-a-
brac shops. After dinner, at noon, we were taken in a covered
barge up the river a few miles to see the site of the old Tada
ovens estabUshed a hundred and eighty years ago, but extinct
for many years. One man stood at the bow poUng, another
man ahead in the water towing by a long rope, and we, reclin
ing on soft mats, were regaled with jelly, candy, cake, and tea.
We went up rapids, floated quietly across calm pools of water
vibrating with wonderful reflections from the dark forests,
and amidst the most beautiful scenery. A landing was finally
made in a most picturesque region where a number of attend
ants had assembled, and such profound bows we got and so
many of them! A short walk brought us to the site of the
oven, now in ruins and covered by a dense bamboo growth.
An old man, one of the last potters of the place, gave us an
account of the pottery and processes, and after looking about
for a while we went to a house where lunch was served. It

270 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
seemed as if a dinner or lunch were given to us every two
hours. At this place were a number of specimens of Tada,
Ajina, and Kikko pottery, some of which were presented to us
and others I had a chance to buy.
About eight o'clock we started for the boat, and now bright-
colored lanterns fringed the canopy and we had a rapid and
delightful sail back to Iwakuni. Attendants were awaiting our
arrival, and we were conducted at once to a building where the
Doctor and I joined a cha-no-yu party in a charming little
tea-room and drank the deUcious powdered tea. After this
ceremonious affair we went to an adjoining room where a
dinner was given us. After all this we went to a provincial
theatre and afforded a greater spectacle to the audience than
the play itself, for the people, young and old, stared at us and
crowded about us in a way I never before experienced in Japan.
We finally got to bed, tired out by our day's experiences, all
of which had been novel and delightful, and which gave us
a vivid conception of old Japan with its hospitality, courtesy,
and gentle manners.
We were up early again the next morning to pass another
eventful day. At ten o'clock Mr, Misu came to escort us to the
cotton factory. After the Revolution in 1868, when the Sho
gunate was overthrown, the Prince of Kikkawa made his resi
dence in Tokyo. The government of the province being de
ranged by the events following the restoration of the Mikado,
a great many of the retainers were thrown on their own re
sources, and it became necessary to find some employment for
these former dependants of the daunyo. A number of gen
tlemen, retainers of the prince, formed a company among

A COTTON MILL 271
themselves and established a cotton miU, This scheme was
encouraged by the prince, who invested a considerable sum of
money in the enterprise. To-day there are extensive bufldings
containing all the machinery for the manufacture of cotton
cloth — rude, primitive, wooden machines, yet all bearing a
resemblance to the great machines one sees in our mills at
home. Over one hundred women and thirty men are engaged
in the work, the men all wearing hakama, showing them to be
samurai. Besides thread, the mill turns out nearly one hun
dred thousand yards of cotton cloth a year. It was interesting
to see a tread wheel in which were two strong-looking samurai
treading away patiently, supplying power for a certain portion
of the machinery, while in a room outside were other arrange
ments to move certain machines, also turned by samurai, who,
when we looked in, got off their perches and politely bowed to
us. Indeed, as we walked through a long room in the second
story of one of the buildings, every clerk — and there were
many of them — bowed to us. We continued to the farther
end of the room, where upon the floor a large carpet was
spread and tea was brought to us. Then the clerks and others
employed in the office came in groups of four and five, and
upon their knees bowed to the floor, as we were in a kneeling
position. When we entered the factory yard and during our
entire progress through the factory, every one bowed to Mr.
Misu and to us, and it was interesting to see how polite and
kind Mr. Misu was to the operatives. He borrowed the Doc
tor's powerful hand-lens and showed them how the fabrics
looked when magnified. In the vestibule of the office was
hung up a list of the clerks, operatives, and attendants, and

272 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
these formed a cooperative society, each one paying a small
assessment to help those who might become sick. What
amazed us beyond expression was the absence of all dirt and
grease. Every girl looked clean and neat, everybody looked
pleasant, and a happier and cleaner set of people I never saw.
Ruskin would have thought he was in the seventh heaven.
After these interesting experiences we were invited to a
large room, where all the operatives gathered, the girls on one
side of the room, the men on the other, Uke a Quaker meeting,
and, much to my surprise, I was asked to give them a lecture,
Mr, Tahara interpreting for me, I selected ants for a subject.
I had no blackboard, but they all seemed to be greatly inter
ested. Mr. Yamagata, an old student of mine, was there, and
he helped now and then in difficult passages.
We then went into the third story of the building, a kind of
lookout, from which a magnificent view of the river valley and
surrounding country was obtained, A refreshing dinner was
served from a table, with chairs about, some bright girls,
prettily dressed, waiting upon us, as did three beautiful little
boys, one of whom had been my constant companion the day
before, with a fan with which he often fanned me. The dinner
was excellent, though I had already eaten twice that day, but
it is amazing how often one can eat Japanese food. I learned
through Mr. Tahara that the services of a famous cook from
some distant place had been secured and there had been gath
ered the best the country afforded. The appearance of the
table and dishes was of the most artistic character. One dish,
in particular had a beautiful dwarf pine, forty years old, rising
from its centre; another dish, on which was raw fish, rested on

IWAKUNI HOSPITALITY 273
a bamboo raft, five feet long, with a most graceful arrange
ment of leaves rising from its centre. Both of these devices
were supported on lacquer stands. Figure 665 is a very rude
sketch of their appearance. This was our farewell dinner, and
aU this artistic and deUghtful affair in the third story of a
cotton factory!

Fig. 665

Besides the cotton factory there is another factory for the
manufacture of paper, and connected with it is a printing-
house where books, pamphlets, and anything in the line of
work of a printing-office is done.
At four o'clock we left the factory and were accompanied by
a number of gentlemen to the house we had occupied. At that
place the jinrikishas were waiting, so final good-byes were
said. A large square package of white cotton cloth was given
to each of us. The Doctor secured two sword-blades in their
wooden scabbards, made by famous Iwakuni sword-makers,
and I was given a number of pieces of old Iwakuni pottery. We
managed to leave Uttle presents for the twenty-two men who

274 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
had attended us. When we askeji for our hotel biU, we were
informed that it had already been paid, and the jinrikishas
to the coast had also been provided. Indeed, we were liter
ally in the hands of these hospitable people. We learned after
wards that Mr. Kikkawa had sent a man from Tokyo to pre
pare for our coming. We finally started amid hundreds of
bows, and crowds of curious faces smiled on us as we rode rap
idly down the main street and out into the country with feel
ings of overwhelming gratitude and affection for the Japa
nese race, and particularly for the Prince of Kikkawa and his
loyal subjects, who, despite the change of political conditions,
preserve, as of old, their fealty to their prince.
During this delightful ride, with remarkable atmospheric
effects, as the mists were slowly rising from the meadows and
rice-fields, with the dark thatched roofs silhouetted against
the white mists and a dark range of mountains beyond, we
mentally digested the remarkable experience we had had.
Reaching the coast village, we were taken to a little tea-house
in a wonderful garden, where tea and cake were offered us, and
finally, when we got aboard our junk, a number of boxes of
cake and candy were given us.
Our next port was the famous village of Miyajima, twelve
miles distant, accounted one of the most picturesque and beau
tiful places in Japan. There being no wind the sailors rowed
or sculled the entire distance to Miyajima. It was a delightful
experience sitting on deck in the balmy southern air watching
for the August meteors and reflecting on the unique experi
ences we had enjoyed. I had ample time to call the Doctor's
attention to one beautiful meteor before it disappeared.

TAME WILD DEER 275
We arrived at Miyajima at midnight, and walked up through
the quaint and silent streets to a tea-house situated in a deep
ravine, and soon got to bed and to sleep. The next morning
(August 17) we had a delightful surprise as we opened the
shoji and looked out on a beautiful wUd ravine, cool and re
freshing. Deer came out of the wild forest and looked at us
with gentle eyes; one even came into the enclosure in front of
our room and ate a rind of watermelon from my hand. I sup
posed they were deer kept in confinement and tamed, but
when I walked through the village some hours later I met
them in the street, and found that they
were not prisoners or park specimens, but
came down from the mountains. In other
words, they were wfld deer that had never
been treated unkindly.
The famous Shinto temple has its long
corridors, decorated with pictures by vari
ous artists; some of the pictures very old
and their details partially effaced by time,
but we spent two hours in examining them.
There were also curiosities in the shape of '
old bamboo roots; an interesting painting
of a bamboo made by a boy six years old, some remarkable
wood-carvings of deer, and appended to one carving was the
chisel used by the carver. The temple is about seven hun
dred years old, and a stone lantern which stood near one of
the corridors is also seven hundred years old. Figure 666
represents the lantern, or ishidoro. In the street near the
ravine are curiously constructed aqueducts which supply

Fig. 666

276 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
the houses with water, one near our inn was very primitive
in its construction. On a huge square pile of stones was a
large wooden trough, the sides of which were perforated with
holes, and out of these poured streams of water into water-
conductors of bamboo, as shown in figure 667. These con
nected with bamboo pipes underground which led to various
houses in the vfllage. In another ravine bamboo gutters con-

FiG. 667
veyed the water long distances. In one place a strainer of
bamboo in a box was used as shown in figure 668. By these
various devices the viUage of Miyajima was suppUed with the
purest water from mountain brooks.
A simple method of automatically closing a gate is shown in
figure 669. A weight hangs from a cross-bar above. By its
weight the gate is kept closed, and when one enters, the weight
bangs against the gate a few times, thus answering the pur
poses of a door-bell. The deer that roam freely through the
main street of the vfllage are inclined to wander into the gar
dens, and this device is made to keep the gate closed against
their intrusions.

Fig. 668

SACRED MIYAJIMA 277
Miyajima is regarded as a very sacred place, and the abso
lute repose and tranquiflity are beyond description. No ani
mal was aUowed to be
killed on the island.
We were told that only
within a few years was
any one allowed to die
on the island. Former
ly, when one was near
death, the poor creature
was put into a boat
and rowed across to
the mainland where the
cemetery is located. If
any one climbing the mountain accidentally injured himself
so as to bleed, the earth upon which the blood fell had to be
scraped up and thrown into the sea. Here is a vfllage of
^  servants, wood-carvers, shopkeepers,
and the usual make-up of a vfllage
community. By what mystery do they
elect to behave themselves? Why are
the children always so good? Are
they effeminate? They make the best
soldiers in the world,
I left the island in a small boat for
the mainland on my way back to
Hiroshima, the Doctor wishing to stay
another night in Miyajima. In safling along the coast one
notices enormous walls built of stone running along for miles.

U

Fig, 669

278 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
and seen from the water they appear like breakwaters, I
was not prepared to see the extensive character or meaning
of these structures till I rode along their crests on my way to
Hiroshima, The walls, built nearly one hundred years ago,
were made to reclaim the bottom of the sea for agricultural
purposes, and the enormous tracts of land thus recovered are
amazing. The coast is abrupt and mountainous, and the
mountain ridges jut out of the ocean like promontories, leav
ing great bays between; the walls are built from the ends of
these promontories and the enclosed areas are filled in and
are under rich cultivation. On the crest of the wall is a broad
road, and the ride was delightful. I reached Hiroshima at
eight o'clock and naturally went to my room at once for
my watch and money, which, as I have mentioned, I found
intact. Sick with a cold and a bilious attack, I lay on the floor all
the next day whfle dealers in bric-a-brac brought old pottery
to me to examine, and I made large additions to my collec
tions. With no interpreter I got along very weU, and should
not hesitate to go through Japan alone. The Doctor arrived
the next day, and he spent the entire time with the dealers,
who came in swarms. When we were ready to go, we were told
that the dealers had provided a large barge and wished to con
vey us to the steamer, five miles away. Imagine our astonish
ment when we got aboard to find that they had hired a fine
pleasure barge with singing-girls, a fine lunch, and everything
to make the sail pleasant. In this way these people wished to
show their gratitude to us. A number of Japanese friends
accompanied us in another boat, among them Mr, Amakusa,

UNCOMFORTABLE SAIL TO KOBE 279
whom I had met a few years before when examining dolmens
near Osaka. Just before we started, an acquaintance of Mr,
Tahara made a call, and I invited him to take a little brandy,
the only thing I had to offer. He poured out much more than
an ordinary drink, and I warned him that it was very strong
and he could not carry it. He said, "Dai jo bu, yoroshU" (Able
to resist, all right). It was interesting and amusing to see how
rapidly he succumbed to the influence of the liquor. By the
time we got aboard he was in a grotesque state of intoxication,
and finally became so drunk that we had to land him on the
banks of the river, where he laughed, sang, and declaimed tUl
we were out of sight !
We soon reached the steamer, and bidding good-bye to our
pleasant hosts, got aboard a little low thing evidently built for
the most diminutive Japanese, The result was that we could
hardly move about without breaking our backs or bumping
our heads, and the Doctor repeatedly broke the third com
mandment during his back-breaking experiences.
We sailed git eleven o'clock at night, and aU the next day
and night, stopping now and then, and finally reached Kobe
in the morning, I never endured more misery. It rained most
of the time, and we were confined in a little room with a
Japanese family, with another room connecting in which were
eighteen more Japanese. They were all courteous and quiet.
Had they been natives of any other country we should have
suffered much more, if that were possible. We slept on the
floor, for there were no beds or berths; the Japanese food was
execrable, and I had not recovered from my illness at Hiro
shima.

280 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
Arriving at Kobe we rushed to the English hotel for some
thing to eat. For over two weeks we had lived on Japanese
food, much of it most exceUent, but no matter how good the
food, it is the breakfast that makes us homesick, so we reveled
in the EngUsh food with almost delirious joy.
I have done little but eat and write for a week

CHAPTER XXII
POTTERY-HUNTING IN AND ABOUT KYOTO
Our Inland Sea experiences have been remarkable and,
with the exception of steamboating, perfect. We are now to
start for a town in the Province of Kii, and then on to Nara
and Kyoto, so my journal notes and sketches accumulate
without a chance for writing up in orderly sequence. I have
added a great stock of notes for my pottery journal which is
sadly behindhand.
Within a month a violent outbreak has occurred in Korea
and a number of Japanese have been massacred. I was in
Kyoto when the news was received by the Japanese papers,
and the excitement over the affair reminded me of the days
following the outbreak of our Civil War. Osaka would raise
three regiments of soldiers and contribute a million of dollars;
Niigata, away up on the northwest coast, would raise half a
regiment and give a hundred thousand dollars. I mention
these details in order that the following incident may be fully
appreciated. With the country aroused at the Korean coup
d'etat and Japanese troops forced to retreat to Chemulpo, I, on
my way to Kyoto, sat in the train with two Koreans. I had
rarely seen a Korean before, and the Japanese in the car
had apparently never seen these people, from the way they
watched them. They got out at Osaka, and I sacrificed my
ticket and followed them. They had no guard, not even a po
liceman, nor was a guard necessary. Crowds flocked around

282 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
them, for their conspicuous white clothing, curious horsehair
hats, shoes, everything, were as strange to the Japanese as to
me. I foUowed them untfl I got tired, simply to discover, if
possible, a hostile gesture or a jeering word. The Japanese were
sensible enough to realize that these two men were innocent of
the atrocities going on in their native country and they were
treated with the usual courtesy. Naturally I recalled the way
the Northerners were treated
in the South during the war in
our country, and again asked
myself which people are the
most civflized,
Whfle at Rokubei's pottery
the old man, in showing me a
water-jar he had thrown some
years before, made a gesture
new to me: he held his two
fists against his nose, one in
front of the other, I wondered
what he meant by it, and was
told that it indicated pride.
A wise old character known as
Tengu is represented in masks and pictures as a man with an
inordinate length of nose, and to show wisdom or commend
able pride the two fists are held as above described to indicate
a long nose.
At Kobe I watched from my window a number of workmen
driving piles, I have already described the process in the
earlier pages of the journal. We have now learned the meaning

Fig. 670

A CHANTY 283
of their song. Figure 670 shows the men on the staging who lift
the heavy log hammer. Two men below steady and direct the
pile to be driven, and one of these sings a short chanty, while
those on the staging above keep up a swinging sort of time by
slightly swaying their bodies and partially lifting their ham
mer; then they join in the chorus, and when that is finished,
three or four blows are given, when the man below starts the
chanty again. The chanty consists in queries or encouraging
words, as, "Why is this so hard?" "A few more blows wiU
drive it down"; "It is almost down," etc. At this, several
rapid blows may be given. The workmen above often laugh
heartily at the funny words of the soloist, and all work in a
happy, smiling sort of way. The men seem to accomplish a
good deal of work during the day, but it is laughable to see
them work so slowly and deliberately.
After a three days' stop at Kobe we went to Osaka, and
from there started for Wakanoura, Province of Ku. I went
ahead with Mr. Tahara and at every town ransacked the
curio-shops for pottery. . Our ride across the plains of Osaka
to the mountains beyond, though monotonous, had many
points of interest. The entire region was covered with big
stacks of straw gathered about high poles in picturesque
groups of four or five, of various heights, and each with its
little spire, which was the end of the pole which forms the axis.
Many of these stacks had gt)urd or squash vines trained upon
them, and some of them had little huts buflt against them as
shelters for the farmers. Figure 671 is a sketch of their appear
ance. At close intervals were single or double well-sweeps for
the irrigation of the land. The weighted end consists of a

284 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
rough-hewn stone, disk-like in shape, with a hole in the centre,
into which the end of the pole is wedged. There were thousands
of these weUs scattered over the vast plain and many of them
were being worked. The extent to which irrigation is carried
on probably has no parallel except in China, which I hope soon
to see. There the well-sweep is two thousand years old.
A very ingenious water-wheel (fig. 672) is met with, which is
worked by the current of a river. It is a Chinese device, and is

Fig. 671
rare about Tokyo and farther north, but not uncommon in the
southern provinces. The wheel is eight or more feet in diam
eter, and attached to it are large bamboo tubes which are fas
tened obUquely to the side of the wheel at the periphery. As
the wheel is turned by the current, the bamboo tubes are filled
with water, and as these tubes are turned to the top of the
wheel, the water pours out in a stream and is caught by a deep
box trough running parallel to the diameter of the wheel.
From this trough it runs into another trough, and from thence
to the irrigating ditch. It is interesting to watch the methodi
cal manner in which each bamboo in turn becomes fflled with
water, finally to spiU it into the trough as it comes to the top

AN INGENIOUS WATER-WHEEL 285
of the wheel. At times may be seen two or three wheels close
together along the banks of the river, and large quantities of
water are raised during the day to irrigate the rice-fields.

Fig. 672

At one place in Kii I saw a curious implement used for weed
ing in rice-fields. It consisted of a long box without a bottom;
inside the box were two shafts running from side to side, these
shafts being studded with wooden pins; long arms or handles
ran up from the box; and the machine was pushed through
the rows of the rice-fields. Figure 673 gives a fair idea of its

286 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
appearance. It was invented by a man in the village where
we saw it used.
The pass through the mountain chain which separates
Izumi from Kii was very delightful; such perfect roads and
such fine stone bridges !
The scrupulous efforts made to protect the roads from moun
tain floods one observes at all times. Even the beds of brooks
are paved like a street so that the torrents shall do no damage.

Fig. 673
Figure 674 gives a faint idea of the manner of protecting the
abutments of a bridge and the brook-bed. A big dam was made
below the bridge so as to check the too rapid flow of water.
The bridge shown is one in the mountain pass as we left Isumi
and entered the Province of Kii.
I noticed a curious way of treating the roof in Izumi. After
the thin layer.of shingles is put on, a layer of mud is added,
and a thin layer of cotton-seed is hammered into the mud with
large wooden mallets. The seed is the refuse after the oil has
been pressed out, and being oily, it forms a waterproof coat
ing until the mud has become hard and baked by the sun.
At one place on the road where we stopped, I saw the process

A CURIOUS FOOD 287
of manufacture of a curious kind of food one often sees in
certain soups. It has a bright-yeUowish color, is thin as paper,
and has no definite flavor. The substance is made from soya
beans by a curious and simple process. The beans are boUed in
a large boiler till they are very soft; they are then ground in a
mill to a fine paste, and mixed with water and colored by some
stuff that is imported from abroad (fig, 675), This material is
then put into a shallow trough divided by square partitions,

beneath which is a charcoal fire which keeps the stuff gently
boiUng, The surface coagulates as it does on boiled milk, or on
a cup of cocoa, and the film that forms is taken off very skill
fully with slender bamboo sticks and hung up to dry (fig. 676),
Other films form and are promptly removed by a girl who is
kept busily at work.
As we entered the plains of Kii in the vicinity of Wakayama,
the view was charming: long reaches of rice-fields, from which,
at intervals, arose little clusters of farmhouses with black-
tfled roofs, intermingled with brown thatch and white walls,
and towering above them quaint-looking trees with deep.

288 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
dark foliage, all rising out of a perfectly level carpet of the
brightest green which extends for miles. At a long distance the
position of Wakayama could be detected by the castle which
looms up on the horizon and forms a conspicuous feature in
the landscape.

Fig. 675
As one goes from province to province one observes a
change in many things. The variety of tiled roof has already
been alluded to in this journal. It is interesting to notice the
difference in ploughs. Figure 677 shows the type of plough
used in Kii. It is similar to the plough used in Yamashiro, but
is not so solidly made or so graceful.
We got to Wakayama at six o'clock in the evening. The
city stands on a slight elevation, enfolded in the midst of
great trees. It is a place of fifty thousand or sixty thousand
inhabitants, yet simple and quiet. The people stared at us in

SPORT WITH DRAGON FLIES 289
eager fashion as we rode through the town. The number of
foreigners who visit a place may be estimated by the quantity
and quality of the staring one is subjected to; so we judged
that foreigners rarely visit Wakayama, We found a clean inn,
and good it was to get something to eat and to go to bed. The
next morning we started out in the usual quest for pottery
and added many pieces; the next day was a repetition of the
first.

Fig. 676

In the afternoon Mr. Tahara and I rode to the little fishing
village of Wakanoura, the viUage being placed just back from
the beach with beautiful mountains towering up at a distance.
On the slopes of one mountain was a large temple illuminated
by the rays of the setting sun. We crossed a little bridge on
which was a crowd of men and boys who were catching dragon
flies in sport. They had regular insect nets, and one man, in
order to leave his hands free, had four dragon flies in his
mouth, his lips holding the insects by the wings turned back.
A boy had a number held between his fingers in the same way.

290 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
The boys tie strings between the thorax and the abdomen and
play with them, the creatures flying and supporting several
feet of light string. This is a boys' sport that one sees aU over
Japan, There were many signs of past grandeur in the temples and
roads, A decayed tori-i rises up in a tangle of bushes and
grass, the sea water coming
to its base (fig, 678) ; a quaint
old stone bridge spans a wide
creek with no trace of a road
leading to it. An evident sub
sidence of the land has taken
Pjq 577 place in comparatively recent
times and traces of man's
work have been swallowed up by the waves. When we re
turned to Wakayama the moon had risen, the air was refresh
ingly cool, and the views were altogether delightful. The next
day the Doctor went with us to the beach, where we had a
grand swim,
I noticed the remarkably good looks of the older women,
very sweet, motherly, and intelligent faces; indeed, I may say
that in the many places I have visited in Japan I never saw
so many fine and intelligent old ladies as here. The children
were also very pretty, and there is an air of culture and refine
ment that impresses the visitor at once. It being a three days'
festivity in honor of their ancestors, every child was prettfly
dressed, and at night they aU carried bright-colored lanterns.
The streets were fflled with booths, and such an activity of
shouting and merriment would have been almost distracting

FESTIVAL AT WAKAYAMA 291
if there had not been the utmost courtesy and politeness in all
these demonstrations. We went to the fireworks one evening.
These were given in a large enclosure made by straw mattings
nearly twenty feet high. The pieces, though simple, were very
beautiful, and the crowd emitted precisely the same sounds
expressing surprise and wonder that one hears among our own
people under similar circumstances.

Fig. 678

At Wakanoura I observed fishermen boiUng pine bark in
order to tan their fish nets. I asked them why they did not
tan their boat sails, and they said that the sails did not wear
so well if tanned. Figure 679 represents the appearance of
this simple tannery. The fishing boats pulled up on the beach
were somewhat different from those of other parts of Japan.
There is a marked difference in the boats of different provinces,
though they are aU remarkably dry boats and float like an
egg-shell in heavy seas.

292 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
Wherever I go there is perceptible in the hum of the city
streets certain noises that are rhythmical. You find that the
Japanese workmen hum or sing at their work, and if the work is
pounding, stirring with a stick or spoon, or any uniform move
ment, it is done with an accent and in rhythm. These noises
may be a series of grunts, or an actual song. The gold-beaters
and fish-choppers always beat and chop with a peculiar tempo.
A curious preparation of raw fish has to be rubbed into a paste
in a stone mortar. The mortar is on the ground, the pestle
is a long pole, the man stands at his work, and he works
with great vigor. The
movements of stir
ring are accompanied
with a peculiar whis
tling sound in perfect
time to the stirring,
which is interrupted by long and short stirs. The black
smiths have the hammers of the helpers tuned differently, so
that an agreeable series of sounds is made, and when four are
pounding in rhythm it sounds like a chune of beUs. It is a
curious trait in their character to lighten the burden of their
labors by some pleasant sound or rhythm.
In the country villages it is interesting to observe how unob
trusively the people call one another's attention to the ap
proach of a foreigner. They seem to know of his approach a
long time before he passes their door. Often children go ahead
to teU their parents; mothers caU their chfldren's attention to
the strange sight, but in doing this they never call out loud
or point their fingers. In Tokyo, in Kyoto, and in other large

1 IT -^ r^__£jLri

GOJIO 293
cities the sight of a foreigner is too common to attract at
tention, though even in remote parts of the great city of
Tokyo, one attracts some notice, and countrymen in the city
may be recognized by their interest in you.
Our visit to Wakayama was full of interest. We left the
city August 31 for Nara, a two days' jinrikisha ride up a most
beautiful valley. In all
our travels in Japan
we have never passed
in and out of so many
charming and pictur
esque places. Toward
evening we reached
Gojio, a town in the
Province of Yamato.
On the way up the
river I saw a regular terrace formation, in appearance pre
cisely like the terrace formation in the upper Connecticut
River, but due to an entirely different cause.
In Gojio I saw a house in that stage of construction that
shows how the ceiling of a room is supported. One sees that
the thin rafters upon which the cedar boards rest are alto
gether too weak to support the boards, no matter how thin
they may be; a long cleat is nafled on the upper side of these
boards and a piece is nailed to that and to the rafters of the
roof above. The space above the ceiling and under the roof,
which forms our attic or garret, is never utilized in the Jap
anese house; it is a playground for rats only. In Gojio I made
a sketch of an engine house (fig. 680), not unUke the sketch of

Fig. 680

294 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
a similar house I made in Mororan, Yezo, four years ago. The
engine hangs up under the roof and becomes dry and cracked,
and when used at a fire it is amazing to see how the water
squirts out of it in every direction tifl the wood becomes
soaked. In the town of Yagi, Yamato, I saw a number of thatched
roofs (fig. 681), showing a series of laps of thatch resembling
in that feature the
thatched roofs of Ainu
huts in Yezo, but the
successive edges were
not so prominent as in
the Ainu roof.
We left Gojio in the
morning, and after a
delightful all-day ride
reached Nara at six o'clock. After getting into the Province
of Yamato I noticed at times in the road fragments of the
blue, unglazed, lathe-turned pottery, dating back a thousand
years and more. This pottery is regarded as Korean by anti
quarians, but the abundance of it scattered over the ground
leads me to regard it as Japanese, though the art of making
it was originally introduced by Korean potters. It is asso
ciated with tombs and caves and is mortuary. As we ap
proached Nara we passed the tomb of the first Emperor,
Jimmu Tenno. It is a large, square, flat-topped mound of
slight elevation, surrounded by a plain, substantial stone
fence. It was intensely hot as we turned off the main road to
examine it, and I was too tired to make any sketches. I man-

Fig. 681

Fig. 682

h

A YAMATO CUSTOM 295
aged to get a hasty sketch of the padlock which fastens the
gate of the inner sanctuary, a big, heavy, brass device that
can be unlocked only on an order from the
Emperor (fig. 682).
At several places along the coast at the
entrance to a path leading back to some
farmhouse was seen a curious device in the
shape of a tafl slender stick, on the top of
which, inverted, was a large mushroom (fig.
683). The stem was wrapped in paper and
the stick below had a roll of paper about it. We
were told that it indicated a death in the family.
It was evidently peculiar to Yamato, as I never saw
it elsewhere. Nothing was learned as to the signi
ficance cf it.
The various temples were very interesting. At
one place we saw a remarkable religious dance by
four girls, peculiarly dressed, with three priests
who sang an accompaniment.
In Nara the deer come down from the woods
and roam through the streets, and I tried to feed
them out of my hand. They were not so tame as
the deer of Miyajima; at least, I was not able to
get within ten feet of them, much to the disgust of
an old woman from whom I had bought a few
rice-baUs. She coaxed in vain for the deer to ap
proach me. The Japanese have no dififlculty in
feeding them, but the deer recognize a foreigner at once.
I had the same two jinrikisha men with whom I had left

Fig. 683

296 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
Wakayama and they were great runners. They made the dis
tance of twenty-nine miles with only two stops of short dura
tion, running all the time. At one place where we stopped a
taU wooden screen which was leaning against the building blew
over, and the man in the shafts tried to save it from f aUing on
the jinrikisha, and in doing so lost his balance, and over the
jinrikisha went backward, tumbling me out with my valise and
a box of pottery. As I never hurt myself in such tumbles, I
picked myself up all right, but it was amusing to hear the two
men scolding each other till they found I was really laughing at
the mishap, when they began the most hearty and satisfac
tory laugh I had heard for a long time, and for mUes on the
road I would give a chuckle just to hear them laugh again.
I came up from Kobe on the steamer which conveyed a
number of Korean ambassadors to Tokyo, They were very
pleasant, genial men, and I quickly got acquainted with them,
I made a few sketches of them on the sly. As a few of them
spoke Japanese, I managed to ask them a great many ques
tions and to understand their answers. Two of them wore large
goggles with colored glasses, as I supposed. They aUowed me
to examine them, and to my amazement I found that they
were made of clear smoky-quartz crystals mounted in tor-
toise-sheU frames. I inquired about their method of releasing
the arrow in archery and found it to be like the Japanese
method, only an arm-guard is worn, and they do not allow the
bow and string to revolve. The Korean pipe has a much larger
bowl than the Japanese pipe. The Government ofiflcials wear a
coat slit up the sides, and up the back to the shoulders, and like
all Koreans they dress in white. Figure 684 is a sketch of one

KOREAN COSTUME 297
of the Koreans with his coat removed. The breeches are very
baggy, and separate at the knee. Below, their legs are stuffed
into the stockings, which are heavily wadded with cotton so
that they bulge over the edge of the shoe. In summer this
wadded stuff must be intolerable. The jacket is short with
two pockets in front, and is made of a light yellow
nankeen-like cloth. There is no shirt. On the
arms are sleeves reaching from the wrist to the
elbow. These are woven in white horse-hair, and
are intended to keep the cloth sleeves away from
the skin. Around the head in its longest diameter
is worn a band of black horsehair, finely woven,
which is drawn so tightly that when taken off a
deep line is seen on the forehead. When not wear
ing this band, they roll it up very carefully. It is
perhaps two feet long, two and a half inches wide,
with strings at the ends, and little black rings
through which the strings pass in fastening it on
the head. One form of official hat is in two parts: the first
part a simple, bag-like form made of horse-hair, which has
dangling inside, from the top, a tortoise-shell pin which is
stuck into the stubby queue on top of the head to keep the
hat on. Outside of this goes an affair in the form of two
square boxes, one above the other, both flaring as in figure
685; this is also made of horsehair. Another form of hat, and
one most commonly seen, judging from pictures of Koreans, is
a tall hat, the crown somewhat tapering and the rim very wide
and slightly arching; this is made of the finest fibres of bam
boo and is wonderfully woven. The hat is an expensive one.

Fig. 684

Fig. 685

298 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
costing fifteen or twenty dollars. Figure 686 shows it on the
head of an elderly man.
In Kyoto with Mr, Tahara for a few days we devoted our
entire tune to visiting the famous potters, from whom I got a
tmass of notes regarding the present and past
generations of the families, impressions of their
various stamps, and other information, Ro
kubei seemed pleased to see me again, and im
mediately brought the cups I had made on a
former visit, which he had baked and glazed.
On the bottom of the pieces I had marked
"M," and had drawn a shell inside, and Ro
kubei had marked in Chinese character on the
side, "Rokubei assisted," I gave him one of them, and he
was polite enough to seem pleased. I secured from him a
complete set of tools used in pottery-making.
Figure 687 shows Rokubei's pottery from the yard.
From Rokubei's we went to the Raku pottery
Kichizayemon, I found a modest-appearing house.
The old potter representing the twelfth genera
tion of the family, who have made for three hun
dred years a peculiar kind of pottery known as
Raku, invited us in, and we introduced ourselves
as coming from Rokubei, He kindly answered aU
my questions, and showed me a complete set of
Raku bowls representing the work of all the gen
erations, I made outlines and rubbings of the marks. He
then showed us the working place. It seems that only the
immediate members of the family are engaged in the work.

THE RAKU POTTERY 299
no outsider having anything to do with it. The oven is very
small, and the one in which the famous bowls are baked is
only large enough to hold one bowl. The bowls are not
made on a lathe, but are shaped by the hand and shaved on
the sides. He gave us powdered tea and cake, and whfle we
were drinking, a cunning little chfld came to me to be hugged.

Fig. 687
In his room he had a letter mounted as a kakemono. This
letter was from Kato Kiyomasa, a famous general in the
time of Taiko, who had the reputation of having killed a tiger
with a blow of his fist. The letter was addressed to the first
generation of the Raku asking him to make some tea-bowls.
The letter had been sacredly preserved through aU the gener
ations of the family. He also showed me a piece of pottery
made by the first Raku. It represented a mythological lion,
and had also come down as a precious heirloom of the founder
of the family. It seems that when Nobunaga was defeated and

300 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
his palace burned to the ground, the first Raku saved this
piece from the ruins. I made a hasty sketch of the old man
and the Nobunaga no Shishi as he was reverently telUng me
the story (fig. 688).
The next day we visited Yeiraku, one of the famous potters
of Japan. Here we were as cordially welcomed as at the other
potteries. Powdered tea and
cake were offered us, and Yei
raku listened with great at
tention to my inquiries, and
then gave me a complete his
tory of the family, of which he
represents the thirteenth gen
eration. While Mr. Tahara was
recording his conversation,
which will appear in my pot
tery journal, I made a sketch
of the room in which we were.
The marvelous square oak
panels in the ceiling were the
most beautiful I had ever seen.
At Yeiraku's I noticed an in
teresting treatment of waU plaster. Directly after its appli
cation to the waU iron fiUngs are blown upon it, and these
particles oxidizing, give a warm, brown tinge.
From Yeiraku's we went to another Kiyomizu potter, Zo-
roku, and there for the first time I discovered where all the
counterfeit Ninsei, Asahi, and other famous potteries had
been made. The curious feature about the matter was that

Fig. 688

BAIREI'S DRAWING-SCHOOL 301
the potter and his brother did not seem at all ashamed at the
counterfeiting they were doing. They showed me specimens
of their father's work, among which were bowls with the
Ninsei mark!
After Zoroku we visited Kitei, who represents the fourth
generation of his family, and here we were very kindly re
ceived and every facility was given us to examine his work.^
His furnace had the same general aspect of all the others; a
series of lateral ovens built on the side of a hill. Potters often
bake in one another's ovens. Zoroku bakes afl his pottery in
Kitei's oven and Yeiraku bakes in an oven some distance from
his house.
I again visited Bairei's drawing-school and house, and for
two hours enjoyed watching the deft way in which the pu
pils work. It seemed an awkward position to be down on the
floor with knees bent under the body, yet Bairei told me that
the pupils would hold this position for hours apparently with
out fatigue. The work consists in copying from other draw
ings. Much of the preliminary work is done by tracing and in
every case a brush is used. The paper is not thin enough to
see the drawing distinctly, and so it is lifted up at almost every
touch of the brush. The paper is held down by a paper-weight
at the head of the sheet. In beginning, the brush is filled with
the paint, a proper point is made by trying the brush on an
other sheet, and if there is too much paint it is sucked out
of the brush at the base, so as not to spoil the point.
At the temple of Nanzenji, at Kyoto, the priests showed me
a smaU collection of pottery, none of which appeared remark-
Kitei's garden is figured in Japanese Homes, p. 255.

302 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
able. A tea-room, built by a famous chajin, Kobori Enshiu,
two hundred and fifty years ago, was a good fllustration of the
simplicity of design in accordance with the plainness and aus
terity of the tea-ceremony cult.
At Osaka the Doctor had discovered an interesting temple
pond in which were hundreds of turtles of different sizes.
Near a little stone bridge which spans the pond is a booth
where one can buy hollow baUs, in the form of lanterns, made
of rice-flour of which the turtles are very fond. When these
baUs are thrown into the water, it is curious to see the turtles
race for one, snapping at it

^— ^rsrvi^-^ y -'siF-SJ^&fe^ again and again, only to throw
-^=~= — '^^'^^^'^'^^^^ it farther away, and so they
Fig. 689 ' chase it till it gets water-
soaked, or until it is driven
against the stone wall bordering the pond, where it is quickly
broken and devoured (fig. 689). The lanterns are colored red
or white, and as the turtles stream across the pond in pursuit
they form a sort of procession with the lanterns at the head
of it. These objects are sold at the rate of five for a cent, and
one may spend some time feeding the turtles. The way they
snap reminds one of the game of biting at an apple suspended
by a cord from the ceiling.
Whfle in Osaka a Japanese invited me to go with him to the
rice exchange, as I would see a very curious sight. As I ap
proached the building I heard a curious babel of shouts which
reminded me of the corn exchange in Chicago. As we entered
the buflding there was the same turbulent crowd of brokers
and speculators gesticulating, flinging up their hands, and

THE OSAKA RICE EXCHANGE 303
shouting at the top of their voices. In amazement I asked of
my Japanese when the custom was imported, and he in turn
was amazed when I told him that just such gatherings might

Fig. 690
be seen in Chicago, New York, and Boston, and other large
cities. These men were rice brokers, and identical conditions
and demands had resulted in identical behavior.
The dirt carts of Kobe are odd-looking, three-wheeled vehi
cles, with a little centre wheel, far in front, consisting of a
solid block of wood, and the two main wheels of wood solid

304 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
throughout. The axle is fixed, the wheels turning on it. The
tire consists of hard wooden pegs partially driven in, and be
tween these projecting portions a straw rope is wound about
the pegs, for what purpose I did not learn, unless to prevent
the pegs from sinking far into the roadway. Figure 690 repre
sents a side view and plan. The cart is drawn by a bull.

CHAPTER XXIII
CUSTOMS AND SUPERSTITIONS
Miyaoka teUs me that in writing a letter no punctuation is
used. As the letter is written in Chinese characters, it is con
sidered impolite to punctuate, for that would assume that
your friend could not read Chinese properly. In print, the
sentences are always marked by a circle, or a figure like a capi
tal L to show the end of a paragraph. The circle is used in
Chinese classics, whfle the L is used in other text.
In addressing a letter in former times the name of the sender
was written directly under the name of the receiver; at the
present time the name of the sender is written on the other
side of the letter. Some old-fashioned people will not receive a
letter if the sender's name is not given. In past times letters
written to women were directed simply to the master of the
house. Furthermore, a letter directed to the master of the
house may be opened and read by his wife, his son, or his inti
mate friend, unless it is marked on the outside, "Please open
it yourself," the equivalent of "Personal." Before envelopes
were adopted a sheet of paper as a wrapper was folded in
a pecuhar way. The outlines from 1 to 15, in figure 691,
show the various stages of this folding. The sheet is first
folded as in 1, 2, 3, and then unfolded as in 7 and 8; the letter
is then put in and the envelope sheet is again folded, but in a
different way, the creases already made being a guide.
In the province of Yamato I observed very effective meth-

306 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
ods of arranging ornamental tiles to form borders on the roofs
of porches and gateways, methods from which our architects
might get suggestions. In Yamato greater use is made of tfles
for ornamental purposes than in other provinces I have visited.

1 '^ A

•^^y

"^ A

l^

IS

Fig. 691
The ornamental flat tfle does not seem to be used to any ex
tent. A few are seen only in garden walks; at Rokubei's I
noticed them in the garden.
In our country we have bad speUers among those who are
otherwise scholarly. In Japan the same condition is found,
and there are scholars who cannot write the Chinese charac-

JAPANESE NAMES 307
ters correctly. It is enough to paralyze the brain of an ordi
nary man to think of the monumental load a Japanese has to
carry, to remember the thousands of characters as well as the
Chinese name of the character and the equivalent in Japanese.
Not only this, but each character has its written script, its
seal form, as well as the square form, as in our alphabet
where we have the capital B, for example, the written script,
the old English script, and any fanciful monogram. The
foreign student of Japanese history is perplexed at the differ
ent names that one historical character may have. This fea
ture has often perplexed me in the names of famous potters
and artists. All samurai have first a clan name, which is the
name of the ancient family from which they have descended,
or to which they belonged in feudal times. This name is called
the sei. They have also the family name, which is caUed the
uji, and a name which is analogous to our Christian name,
called the tsusho. A scholastic name is also given them, which
is called the go, and even another scholastic name known as
azana. Stfll another name is used for drafts, petitions, deeds,
contracts, etc., called the imina.^ And finally, not to leave
them in peace even then, they have a name given by the
priest after death, and this name is known as the kaimio. As
an illustration, the famous historian, Rai Sanyo,^ who died
fifty years ago had the foUowing names : —
Sei, clan name, Minamoto.
Uji, family name, Rai.
^ Hepburn's Dictionary says this name is used after the age of fifteen.
' This name is included with the names of other distinguished scholars on the
Boston Public Library Building.

308 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
Tsusho, equivalent to Christian name, Kyutaro.
Go, scholastic name, Sanyo.
Azana, additional scholastic name, Shisei.
Imina, legal name for contracts, etc., Jio.
Kaimio, name after death, not known by my informant. ^
At Miss Nagai's house this afternoon, and made a sketch
of the end of the thatched roof.^ Her brother, Mr. Masuda,
told me that the material for the thatch was a peculiar kind of
reed which costs more and lasts much longer than the ordinary
straw used for thatching. Such roofs are very heavy and abso
lutely water-tight. The Japanese roof, thatched or tiled, is so
unlike anything we have in our domestic architecture that one
is tempted to sketch it aU the time. The roofs vary greatly
and each province has its peculiar types. It seems a pity that
our architects do not break away from the stiff, straight
lines of our ridge-pole and eaves. Along the St. Lawrence
River the French-Canadian houses are buflt with the eaves
slightly curved upward which gives a certain grace to their
appearance. My friend Takenaka, at my request, coUected during his
summer vacation records of a number of superstitions and cus
toms among the lower classes; these he gives me from a note
book from time to time when I am not too tired to write. The
Japanese have no general name for superstition, but a su
perstitious person is caUed a gohei-katsugi; a curiously cut
paper which the Shinto priests carry is called a gohei, and
' I have material of this nature to fill a thousand pages, and find but little time
for recording. My pottery journal exceeds this journal already, and I shall have
enough material to make an interesting book on Japanese pottery.
* See Javanese Homes, fie. 83.

FUNERAL CUSTOMS 309
katsugi means to carry. One who carries such a thing is re
garded as superstitious.
When a person dies it is customary for the friends of the
deceased to bring presents to the family, generally of money
in an envelope, and the strings of this envelope must be
black and white, and not red and white, as red is an emblem
of happiness, the red string, or cord, always being seen on
infants' clothing. The knot must be tied in a square knot
and not in a bow or other form of knot. The envelope is
usually marked "for flowers," or "for senko," which is an in
cense stick. The money may, however, be used for anything.
Food and candy may be brought in a lacquer box, the recipi
ent taking them out and putting them on a plate and then
depositing in the lacquer box a single sheet of paper folded
once or twice, or in lieu of paper two thin sheets of wood.
These offerings are made while the corpse is still in the house,
or directly after the funeral. If there is great grief in the
house, or the person has just died, no paper is put into the box,
which is carefully cleaned by the recipient; on other occasions
it is not cleaned.
The Buddhist priest comes to pray every seventh day for
forty-nine days. After the funeral the master or mistress
gives each visitor five cakes made of wheat, and after thirty-
five days nine cakes are sent to the house of each visitor.
Mention has been made of the color red as a sign of happi
ness; rice colored red is served on festival days. The god of
poverty does not like red rice, or black tofu, and this food is
therefore put on the god shelf, or in the tokonoma, to drive
laway this evil spirit.

310 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
Each year has a special name. This (1882) is the year of the
horse. Any one born in the year of the ox must not eat eel
after he is fifteen years old. A child born when the father is
forty-one years old is not considered a good chfld; that is, the
chfld will be disobedient. In such an event the parent goes to
a friend with the child and tells him he is going to put the chfld
away and wifl the friend kindly take it; in the mean time the
chfld is left in the street. The friend takes it and carries it
home. The next day the parent brings a present and says,
" I have no child ; will you give me your child? " This is done,
the same child, however, being given back again; and this
ridiculous performance is supposed to free the child from the
evil destiny in store. The present made on the occasion usu
ally consists of katsubushi (fish dried as hard as wood), and
this present has not attached to it the usual noshi. All pres
ents of fish are made without the noshi (a paper folded in a
peculiar way with a dried bit of Haliotis meat enclosed). In
regard to eating eel, it is supposed that the chfld over fifteen
who eats it will not be intelligent or rise in life.
On the 15th of August (old calendar) a man must remain
where he is until the 13th of September, If urgent business
requires, he may go away, but must return to the place on the
13th of September. On these days cake must be offered to the
moon. On the 15th of every month a man must contemplate
the moon and make offerings of flowers and cake. On days in
which the figure 1 occurs, as on the 1st, 11th, 21st, trees must
not be cut down; on days in which the figure 2 occurs, as 2d,
12th, 22d, the power of fire is very strong, so for a counter-
irritant in rheumatism mogusa is used, as its heat is more

SUNDRY SUPERSTITIONS 311
powerful; on days in which the figure 3 occurs, the ground
of a garden must not be dug; on days in which the number
4 appears, bamboo must not be cut down; on days with num
ber 5, food — such as rice, peas, or any kind of seed — must
not be carried home, nor must rice be bought on these days;
on days containing the figure 6, wells must not be cleaned out;
on days with 7, strangers must not be invited to the house;
on days with 8, marriage must not be talked about, else the
parties will afterwards separate; on days with 9 it is consid
ered good luck to eat eggplant. The 9th of September is
deemed especially good, as September is also the ninth month,
and wine bottles in the shape of an eggplant are used on this
day. On days with the 10, as 10th, 20th, 30th, the latrine
must not be cleaned. The penalty for all these offenses is un-
happiness or bad luck.
In serving daikon, a kind of radish, two pieces are always
put upon the plate, one piece is called hitokiri, meaning one
piece; it also means "man cut"; three pieces is called mikire,
and also means "body cut," Eggplants and other vegetables,
except daikon, must be cut longitudinally and not trans
versely, because cutting transversely seems cruel.
In presenting cake the cake must rest on a folded sheet of
paper, as numbers divided by two are considered lucky; when
mochi cakes are given they must be presented in numbers of
2, 4, 6, 8, etc.
Sprinkling salt is considered purifying, and the accidental
spilling of salt is regarded as good luck. Returning from a
funeral, salt is sprinkled on the person by a servant.
In sleeping the head is turned to the south as the proper

312 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
thing; when a person is dangerously sick, or dead, the head
must point to the north. When buried in a sitting position the
body may face in any direction.
When the lobe of the ear is large, it is a sign of a happy dis
position. If the second toe is longer than the first toe, it is a sign that
you are to occupy a higher position than your father; a long
tongue or arm is the sign of a thief.
Left-handed persons are caused by the mother, when first
dressing the baby, putting the left hand and arm through the
kimono first.
If you sneeze once, it is a sign that some one is praising
you; if twice, that you are loved by a woman; if three times,
that people are talking about you, in praise, or otherwise; if
four times, that you have taken cold. In the Province of
Bizen one sneeze is a sign that you are disliked; two sneezes,
that you are loved; three and four, that you have taken
cold. If the left ear itches, a man wiU hear good news; if the right
ear, the news will be bad; with women the signs are reversed.
If an incrustation gathers on the lamp-wick, it is a sign that
somebody is coming. The shaUow plate holding the oil and
wick is held by another plate, and if the incrustation can be
got into the lower plate, it is a sign that the person coming is
going to bring a present.^
If a crow caws on a house-top, it is a sign that somebody is
dead within the house,
' a similar superstition is found in America and Great Britain, and probably
on the Continent.

SUNDRY SUPERSTITIONS 313
The finger nafls must not be cut at night, as it is a sign that
one is going crazy.
If chfldren spfll rice on the dress, or mats, they must eat it ;
otherwise they may become bUnd.
A man about to commit hara-kiri is helped to rice, using the
cover of the box as a tray and not in the usual way.
If one's head itches, it is a sign of being happy; if dandruff
falls, it is a sign of intelligence.
If it thunders a little in summer, it is a sign of many danger
ous insects in the rice-field.
When a person is getting poor and unfortunate, the expres
sion is used, "Anoshito no uchi wa hidari mai ni naru"; that
is, "The man of the house folds his kimono to the left," which
is considered unlucky, A corpse is dressed with the kimono
folded to the left.
In order to keep sickness away from the house, particularly
smallpox, the character for horse, painted three times on paper
and stuck over the door, is considered very efiflcacious. An
ink impression of the hand made on paper and displayed over
the door will also answer the purpose.
At Chusenji I noticed hanging over the fireplace four foetal
deer: these were dried and discolored by smoke, and were sup
posed to be efficacious for women in sickness following child
birth. If you find a comb in the street, before picking it up you
must step toward it with your left foot; otherwise you will go
through the world whining and crying,
A man must not marry a girl four years older or four years
younger than himself; otherwise domestic trouble will arise.

314 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
Any other number of years older or younger makes no differ
ence. In mixing mustard you must stir it with an angry face, and
this wfll make the mustard strong and stinging; if you smile
during the operation the mustard wfll be mild.
One who prays to a certain god (Miyoken) must refrain
from eating eight kinds of food; otherwise the god will not an
swer his prayers. These foods are eel, turtle, catfish, carp, wfld
duck, goose, onions, and another vegetable of a similar nature.
The ages of 3, 7, 19, 25, 42, 52, and 53 are especially bad
years for a man; and for women the ages of 16, 25, 33, 56, and
57 are bad; as a general rule, too, years ending in the num
bers 7 and 9 are considered bad.
One year after the death of a person the family meet for a
solemn ceremony; also in the 3d year, the 7th, 13th, 17th, 25th,
33d, 100th, and after this every fifty years.
The crow sings in the early morning kal kal which means
"wife"; hence the wife must get up before the husband
At a funeral visitors have their names recorded on a sheet of
paper. The brush used for this purpose must be pushed
through the sheath the wrong way; hence, doing this act at any
other time is bad luck. When the body is carried out of the
house, the men performing this function do not remove their
clogs as they enter or leave; hence, if one is seen trying on his
^ new clogs on the mat, his friend will say, "Please do not do it;
it is a bad sign,"
If tea-leaves float vertically in a cup, it is a sign that good
fortune wiU come or that good news will be received. It is cus
tomary for dancing-girls to take these leaves and put them in

SUNDRY SUPERSTITIONS 315
the left sleeve, accompanying the act with a sipping sound
Uke the chirp of a mouse to insure the good omen,
A string tied round the wrist and ankle is supposed to pre
vent one from taking cold.
If a weasel crosses the road in front of a superstitious man,
he immediately turns back and gives up the object of his jour
ney; or if it is of great importance he must take another road.
If two funerals meet, it is a sign of good luck for both; if
one overtakes another, it is a sign of bad luck.
If the cord by which the clog is held to the foot breaks be
hind, it is considered lucky; if it breaks in front, it is bad luck.
There is a belief that the crane in its flight across the seas
from Korea carries in its feet a certain plant, so that when the
bird alights on the water it uses the plant as a float.
The dragon is supposed to go heavenward in a water spout,
and it was believed that if one got even a glimpse of its leg or
foot he would become a great man.
The Japanese have many curious superstitions about the
fox. People who are insane are beheved to be possessed by
the fox, the spirit of which gets into the body by way of the
finger nail; that is, the spirit is supposed to pass in under the
fmger nail and this makes them act as they do. The Govern
ment in past times made provision for the maintenance of the
insane, the family having to look after them; when violent
they were kept in cages. Among the lower classes the belief
in the fox has fuU sway, and stories are told of men who have
fed foxes becoming rich through good luck. It is beUeved that
if one keeps young foxes in a cage and feeds them properly, he
wfll become prosperous.

316 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
Since foreigners have brought science among the people
these superstitions are rapidly passing away,
I asked Takenaka what men did after retirement. He said
that, generally speaking, a man in comfortable circumstances
will retire from business when he is sixty years old. He en
trusts all his business duties to his son, lives in retirement,
and usually has some hobby of collecting, such as rare plants
and ferns, pottery, or stone implements, etc. He gets up at
five o'clock in the summer, six o'clock in the winter; fire is
built in the hibachi to heat water in an iron kettle ready for
tea, which is made strong; he has yokan, a kind of jelly, and
miso soup made of fermented bean; he composes a Japanese
poem; he calls on an old friend or is called upon at nine
o'clock; he plays the game of go all day. If he is a sake drinker,
he will begin to drink at nine o'clock and keep it up until he
goes to bed. During the day he may take a long walk to some
park or other beautiful feature in the country.
Takenaka has been informed by the Chief of the Sanitary
Bureau that during the Tokugawa Shogunate the drinking of
sake was much more common than at present. At that time
sake was always offered to a friend when caUing, and it was
considered an offense to refuse it. Now tea is offered instead,
and if sake is offered, one may drink it or not, as he pleases,
without offense. At that time one cup was used in a convivial
company and the cup had to be emptied when passing. Now
each has his own sake cup and can regulate his desires without
restraint. Sake drinkers are not fond of sweet things such as
cake and candy.
The word for interesting or curious is omoshiroi, which lit-

ENGLISH BOOKS IN JAPANESE 317
erally means "white face," coming down from olden times
when a white face was a curious sight. Nowadays the comic
papers use the word omokuroi for "interesting," the word
meaning "black face,"
Japanese society is now ofiflcially divided into upper, middle,
and lower classes, Japanese now address jinrikisha men and
other laborers in more gentle fashion than formerly.
Professor Toyama informed me the other day that he and
Professor Yatabe and another friend had been for some time
engaged in translating the works of Shakespeare and other
authors. These are published and eagerly read by the Japa
nese. Thus far they have already translated the following:
Hamlet's soliloquy; Cardinal Wolsey's soUloquy; Henry
the Fourth's soliloquy; Gray's "Elegy"; Longfellow's
"Psalm of Life"; Tennyson's "Charge of the Light Brigade";
and they are at work on others. The Japanese have in the
past translated many books from the EngUsh, French, and
German; indeed, when the Dutch first went to Nagasaki, in
the last years of the sixteenth century, the Japanese schol
ars, with the most painful efforts, learned Dutch in order to
translate Dutch books on history, medicine, anatomy, and
other subjects. The character of some of the books already
translated is interesting. Professor Toyama gave me a list
from memory of some of these translations from the English:
Darwin's "Descent of Man," and "Origin of Species"; Hux
ley's "Man's Place in Nature"; Spencer's "Education" (of
which thousands were sold); Montesquieu's "Spirit of Law";
Rousseau's "Social Contract"; MiU's "On Liberty," "Three
.Essays on Religion," and "Utilitarianism"; Bentham's

318 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
"Legislation"; Lieber's "Civfl Liberty and Self-Govern-
ment"; Spencer's "Social Statics," "Principles of Sociology,"
"Representative Government," and "Legislation"; Paine's
"Age of Reason," and Burke's "Old Whig and the New";
of this last book over ten thousand copies have already been
sold. In translating I have often observed that the Japanese in
stantly recognize a Chinese character upside down, but in
reading an obscure mark on pottery they turn the character
right side up in preference.

CHAPTER XXIV
THE CAVES OF KABUTOYAMA
August 6. In the afternoon Dr. Bigelow and I, accompan
ied by Mr. Takenaka as interpreter, started from Tokyo for
Kabutoyama, some forty or fifty miles, to visit Mr. Negishi
and to inspect certain caves near where he lived. We spent
the night at the little viUage of Shirako. Our rooms looked out
on a quaint little garden with a veritable waterfall, whose
music lulled us to sleep. In the evening the two girls who had
waited upon us at supper came in and played games with us.
Such a good-natured, jolly, laughing set of servants cannot be
found elsewhere in the world. They are ready to entertain
guests with their wit and fun, and yet never for a moment pre
sume upon your f amiUarity. The next morning we were off at
nine, and had one of the most delightful rides we have had in
Japan. The day was cool, the sun shaded by clouds, which did
not threaten rain, however. We reached Kawagoe at noon,
and had dinner at the house of an uncle of Takenaka, who had
a hardware shop on the main business street, and we passed
through the Uttle shop to pleasant rooms behind with the cus
tomary garden. The family were very attentive to us, and
were for the first time entertaining foreigners. After hearty
good-byes we were off for Kabutoyama.
We had had from Tokyo two men to a jinrikisha and that
makes a great difference in the speed of traveling and in the
delight of it too. Some portions of the road were stfll muddy

320 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
from the recent rains, and in one place we crossed a broad
river where evidences of the recent flood were seen fifteen
to twenty feet above its present level. Houses in the vicin
ity of the ferry had been submerged to their ridge-poles.
When we got within half a mile of Mr, Negishi's estate, we
were met by a gentleman who politely informed us that Mr.
Negishi was expecting us. As we got nearer the house, three
other gentlemen and Mr, Negishi's only boy were in the road
awaiting us. We immediately alighted from our jinrikishas and
exchanged the most formal bows with them, and they hur
ried after us as we rode rapidly along. Approaching the gate
way of the house, Mr, Negishi, with his family and a number
of servants, stood bowing and giving us a delightful and hos
pitable welcome. We were conducted at once across a spacious
courtyard to a suite of rooms in a house by itself. Such perfect
cleanliness, everything sweet; the courtyard so immaculate
that the indentations of our heels in the smooth, hard earth
disturbed us. Dinner was soon served, and the Doctor and I
agreed that it was the best dinner we had had in Japan; most
delicious soups, and refreshing raw fish, of which the Doc
tor has become very fond. We learned afterwards that Mr.
Negishi had sent fifteen mUes for a famous cook. It was late be
fore we arose from the floor, and our beds were already made
up with silk futons in great, high-studded rooms with rare
carvings over the screens, and all in perfect taste. The guest
house we occupied formed a part of an irregular group of build
ings which enclosed the large courtyard. It was a separate
building, and like the others was nearly three hundred years
old. The thatch on the roof is made of a special kind of rush.

A CHARMING FAMILY 321
quite expensive and said to last fifty years or more. The ridge
pole of wood and other portions were painted black, and the
whole structure was very neatly and elaborately made.^
The next morning I was up before the others and made
many sketches about the premises. The great courtyard sur
rounded by various bufldings is typical of the residences of the
wealthy farmer class, who, though not samurai, stand above
the ordinary farmer class. After breakfast we examined the
large collection of pottery Mr. Negishi had collected in the
neighborhood, dating back twelve hundred years or more.
There were two types, a light-reddish, soft pottery and the
hard, bluish-gray pottery so commonly found in ancient
graves. I never before dreamed of the existence of such tran-
qufl, charming people. Refinement and culture were shown
in their every word and. act; no affectation, no unnatural
restraint, attentions bestowed with ease and sympathy, Mr,
Negishi's mother, an old lady of eighty, was interested in hav
ing me sit beside her, and through an interpreter asked me
many questions, all very intelligent. Her interesting que
ries were such as a refined and cultivated lady at home might
ask a Japanese, A foreigner had never been in the house be
fore, and the sight of one was a rare event in this out-of-the-
way vfllage. It was a hot day, and whenever I sat down the
two daughters would fan me, and their shy and half-fright
ened manner was curious to witness. It is a delightful custom,
however. Just before we bade good-bye to our charming hosts, and
while the jinrikisha men were waiting, Mr, Negishi crossed
' The main house, kitchen, and interior are carefully drawn in Japanese Homes.

322 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
the courtyard to a little room opposite, and I could see him
busily engaged in writing, I supposed he was writing a mes
sage he wanted us to carry to Tokyo, To my surprise it
was a letter to me and it was presented to me on my saying
good-bye. The act represented an old custom of Japan and
one that we might adopt. Here is a translation of the letter: — ¦
Kabutoyama, Musashi, Japan,
August 8, 12th year of Meiji.
Dear Sir : —
It was a long time ago that I began to hear your name on
the island of Nippon in the eastern ocean, but I did not expect
to have you come and examine the caves which are situated
between Osato-gori and Yokomi-gori, in the Province of
Musashi, and that I should have the honor to receive you at
my cottage, which was buflt three hundred years ago, and in
which I had the pleasure of showing you my collection of old
pottery and stone implements. Now, if we should turn our
eyes to the condition of our country thirty years ago, what
would we see? We would see that the people both in our island
and across the seas could not avoid doubting and suspecting
each other, but at present we have reached such a degree of
friendship that I have had the privilege of spending these days
with you. For this reason I have permitted my brush to creep
on, and in view of the deep friendship existing between our
two countries I wish you long and continued prosperity.
With respect, your friend, T, Negishi.

THE CAVES OF KABUTOYAMA 323
We started for the caves — a long, hot walk in the sun, I
had for a close companion Mr, Negishi's dear little boy, who
entertained me by describing many objects along the road,
and some of the conversation I understood. He was a perfect
little gentleman and seemed to feel the responsflDility of his
position as successor to his father's great estates. A bridge
on the road which had been damaged by the storm had been
repaired, and the most minute attention had been given to
our wants and comforts. The day before Mr, Negishi had
workmen cut out afl the paths leading to the caves, greatly
facilitating our examination of them, and full notes were made.
The caves were on the face of a precipice; they were originally
burial caves, but had been repeatedly occupied by refugees.
Whatever relics they had contained had long since disap
peared. In the afternoon we started for Kawagoe, where we were to
pass the night with Takenaka's relatives, Mr, Negishi and
his friends went some way with us in their jinrikishas, and
formal good-byes were made when we parted.
Again on the road, and another absolutely perfect day, and
such varied scenery! Of aU the roads in Japan the road from
Tokyo to Kabutoyama, by way of Kawagoe, seemed about
the most diversified and beautiful. It was Uke a garden, rich
in luxurious farms, long stretches of rice-fields over which we
got wonderful views of Fuji, beautiful old farmhouses, courte
ous people. We passed a group of children just out of school,
and they stood by the side of the road and bowed politely to
us as we passed them, I have noticed the same behavior of
children in Satsuma and in the pottery districts in Kyoto,

324 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
When we got back to Kawagoe, where we were to spend the
night, Mr. Takenaka had arranged to have me give a lecture
on the ancient people of Japan. With the aid of a blackboard
I explained the shell heaps and other evidences of an ancient
race. Figure 692 is a reproduction of the lecture announce
ment, which I took down from the tea-house
as I came away. We sat up with the family
till midnight playing games, and the hearty
way in which the two girls, cousins of. Ta
kenaka, and the other members of the family,
entered into the fun was delightful. The sit
ting on a mortar with one foot balanced on
the other and lighting one candle from an
other created the greatest merriment. We
were the first foreigners that had ever been
'^\ "^^^T in the town, and one woman came to the
&^
,-, ««« house just to look at us. After a profound
Fig. 692 bow she said that ten years before she had
gone to Yokohama expressly to see a foreigner, but had never
seen one since that time.
The next morning Takenaka's uncle cooked the choicest
portions of our breakfast, as indeed he had our supper the
night before. Takenaka had given to hun by his aunt a jar
full of cooked grasshoppers to eat as a reUsh on his rice. The
Doctor and I ate a number of them and found them very good;
the taste resembled that of shrimps. It is a common custom
in this part of the country to eat grasshoppers as a reUsh, and
there is no reason why we should not utilize our grasshoppers
in this way at home; the insect was apparently precisely like

KAWAGOE 325
our common grasshopper. The Japanese prepare them by
boiUng them in shoyu, sugar, and a little water, till the water
has nearly all boiled away. After breakfast we visited a Uttle
temple, which corresponded to our country meeting-house
at home. The interior was like a precious cabinet with the
most beautiful and elaborate carvings, every last fragment
of which would in our country be exhibited in our art museums
behind plate glass. The thought was startling when I tried

Fig. 693
to realize what bit could be secured as an art object from
our country meeting-houses ! We also visited a large building
where fifty or more girls were engaged in reeling silk from
cocoons. As we passed through the factory we were greeted
with modest bows and an atmosphere of good-breeding.
After a hurried lunch our host and his brother and the two
nieces in jinrikishas accompanied us to the boundary of the
town, and then in a Uttle tea-house we drank a parting cup of
tea and bade good-bye. On our way out of town we visited a
temple where stands a huge coil of rope over six feet in height
and three feet in diameter, and this rope was made of human

326 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
hair! Hanging from the ceiUng were a large number of tresses
and queues representing sacrifices in pledging certain vows,
or expiatory offerings.
Figure 693 shows a peculiar shovel made of wood tipped
with iron. The shovel part was over three feet in length and
the handle seven feet long. It is used through the western
part of this province (Musashi) and seems to take the place of
the plough. It was interesting to observe that in the old
houses here, as at home, the timbers were large and ponder
ous, for wood was cheaper in early times, and there was the
lack of knowledge, perhaps, to make an equally strong frame
with less material. The traveler often notices the very high
polish of the wood floor in country houses and inns, and par
ticularly in the flight of steps leading to the second story, I
learned that the polish was obtained by using water from the
bathtub to wash the floors; the oily substance in the bath
water after using giving the high poUsh.

CHAPTER XXV
TOKYO NOTES
October 18. There came to my room two Koreans, father
and son. The father was a prominent Government oflficer in
Korea, and in the late revolt had to flee for his life; the son has
been studying Japanese in a Tokyo school, and is a friend of
Miyaoka. Miyaoka had arranged with the young man to
bring his father, from whom I was to get, if possible, informa
tion in regard to certain subjects, such
as antiquities, pottery ovens, arrow
release, etc They presented their
visiting cards (fig. 694). The father
was very quiet and dignified, but
thoroughly interested in my questions
in a sober kind of way; the son was
very handsome, and had that pecu
liar sweetness that so many Japanese '^ ^^ r *^\
Fig. 694
faces present. Both had beautiful
brown eyes; both were subdued and sad, as if they realized
the dreadful degradation and decay of their country from
its past intellectual eminence, when it had taught Japan many
of its arts. It was somewhat difficult to interrogate the father,
from whom I was to obtain the information desired. I would
first speak to Miyaoka, who would translate into Japanese
to the son, who would in turn translate into Korean to his
: father, who did not understand a word of Japanese, and the

f f

328 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
answers would come back through the same interrupted
channel. The contrasts in the sounds of the Korean and Jap
anese languages, were marked and interesting. At times they
seemed to sound like French ; a mixture of French, Chinese,
and Japanese would well illustrate the sounds. The respect
ful and dignified way in which the son always addressed his
father was marked. Question after question was asked, and
it was slow and tedious work, as it ran through the gamut of
English, Japanese, and Korean and back through Korean,
Japanese, and English. Pottery is still made in Korea, both
the white stone and blue decorated kinds, and soft pottery,
all of the poorest quality. The pottery oven is built on the
side of a hiU, and, judging from a poor sketch the father
made, is not unlike the Japanese oven. If there is no hill, an
incline is built for it. Much pottery is lost in the baking,
as in the lower portion it is over-baked and at the upper end
the heat is insufficient. The lathe is the kick wheel, such as
is used in Hizen, Higo, and Satsuma, where the device was
introduced by Koreans in past times. Large jars are made
up of rings of clay superimposed one upon another and then
welded together by hand. Inside, a stamp is used, cut in
squares or circles, and impressions on the inside of large ob
jects may often be seen. I showed the father a number of
pieces which Mr. Kohitsu had pronounced Korean and he
recognized them as such. He had seen only one in Korea
like some of the forms from ancient graves which I had in
my collection, and this one had been taken from an ancient
burial-place. He had never heard of dolmens or shell heaps,
and he added that the study of archaeology was not known in

KOREAN ARCHERY 329
Korea and very few old things had been preserved; he had
heard of caves, some of large size, with evidences of previ
ous occupation. The comma-shaped ornament known as
magatama, found in ancient burial-places in Japan, he had
never seen in Korea.
In archery the Korean uses the left as well as the right hand
in drawing the arrow, and the left hand is considered the bet
ter; in illustrating the method the father used the left hand.
The bow is grasped firmly and an arm-guard is worn. A
thumb-ring of either bone or metal is worn. The Korean often
practices at a hundred and sixty paces, which is probably
greater than the York round of a hundred yards. The father
made a model of the thumb-ring by cutting it out of paper.
He seemed to have no f acflity with a pencfl, but invariably got
a piece of paper and folded it up, or bent it, or cut it with the
scissors, to illustrate what he wanted to explain. Dr. Oliver
Wendell Holmes once told me that he could not do anything
with a pencfl, but could always cut out of paper with scissors
any model he wished to make. Some of the Korean bows are
of immense strength, and Korean archers particularly train
their muscles by various exercises to draw their powerful bows.
It was pathetic to listen to the Korean's frank avowal of the
absence of aU archaeological interest in Korea; he said the only
reUcs they had to show were themselves, and laughed rather
sadly when he said it. They look upon the Japanese as the
advance guards of Western civflization, and if the hatred that
the ordinary Korean has for the Japanese can be modified, it
will be a great day for Korea, The Japanese can teach them
the many features acquired from the Eastern barbarian.

330

JAPAN DAY BY DAY

Fig. 695

Figure 695 represents the appearance of the Japanese floor
as it is seen raised from the ground. The upright portion has
panels which are often ornamented by simple designs of bam
boo, pine, or conventional fig
ures cut in stencil. These panels
are often removable, and space
is secured below the floor for
sandals, umbreUas, and the like.
The Japanese house has no cellar, and these stenciled panels
and open lattice-work secure ventilation beneath the floor.
The foreigner visiting Japan is impressed at the very out
set by the Japanese love of
flowers, for everywhere, in gar
dens, or in little tanks, flower
pots and hanging or standing
flower-holders are seen, and
he begins to realize that the
simpUcity and beauty of their
arrangement is everywhere
manifest. Further inquiries
reveal the fact that there are
teachers whose sole duty it is
to instruct one in the grace
ful and artistic arrangement
of flowers. There are differ
ent schools, and diplomas are given to those who graduate, ^
> Miss Mary Averill, of New York, studied flower arrangement in Japan, receiving
a diploma. She has written a book on Japanese flower arrangement which will greatly
aid those interested in the subject. Conder's work, entitled The Flowers of Japan and
the Art of Floral Arrangement, is an important work on the subject.

Fig. 696

FLOWER ARRANGEMENT 331
It is by no means a feminine accomplishment only; students
of the University take lessons in flower arrangement as nat
urally as our students take lessons in the art of spreading
a man's nose over his face without dislocating the wrist. Fig
ure 696 is a sketch of a hanging flower-holder with a grace
ful arrangement of a few flowers. The basket was very old
and was signed; indeed, the makers of baskets signed their
names just as potters, netsuki and inro artists, metal-workers.

Fig. 697
and other art handwork producers signed their names to
their work. One appreciates the art of the Japanese in these
matters when he recaUs the cult at home. At a lunch I at
tended in the old Chinese college the tokonoma had three
large masses of flowers, bouquets four or five feet in height.
They were in simple cylindrical vases mounted on draped
stands, the material consisting of large branches and twigs
of pine with flowers intermixed (fig. 697).
The varieties of ploughs in Japan are very interesting. The
type is after the Chinese style, but the forms in different prov
inces are quite marked. Figure 698 shows the most primitive

332 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
plough in Japan, I saw it used in the Province of Suo, Its
form sustains the contention of E, B, Tylor that the plough
was evolved from the hoe. Nevertheless, in a painting, nearly
three hundred years old, of
a Chinese subject I found a
curious device in the form of
^°' a shovel dragged by a bull.
Here is an idea that it might
have been derived from a shovel, A shovel of this form is
used in Japan to-day (fig. 699). Figure 700 is a Kishiu plough
not unlike the one used in Yamashiro and Yamato; figure
701 is from a drawing made by a student of a Chikuzen
plough. There are many types of ploughs in Japan of which
I have sketches. In mountain regions bulls are used to drag
ploughs, and cows are used in softer ground so that boys
can do the work.
At a lunch the other day there were dishes of candy made in
exact imitation of mushrooms. The dead-white stipe and giUs
and a translucent, yel
lowish gray pileus were
actually specific in their
character. In Kyoto there is a
building over three hun-
A A ij I,- 1- Fig- 699
dred years old which
rests on the site of a structure built in 1132, It is known as
San-ju-san-gen-do, and derives its name from two enormous
roof-beams thirty-three ken in length, a ken being nearly sbc
feet. The building is nearly four hundred feet long, and fifty-

Fig. 700

A REMARKABLE BUILDING 333
three feet wide, and shelters thousands and thousands of fig
ures of the goddess Kwannon, arranged in phalanxes, one
behind the other. They are said to number 33,333. * Sur
rounding it is a veran
da, six feet wide, and
as you walk along, pass
ing successive doors,
which are open on, one
side and protected by
heavy bars, you see this
forest of saints standing
in close rows like a regi
ment on parade. The
roof overhangs the veranda, about eighteen feet above it,
and is supported by a complicated set of beams and bars.
In feudal times the custom was to place a target at one end
of this long veranda and shoot at it with bow and arrow.
The bow had to be of enormous strength, and the archer
as weU, to throw an arrow nearly four hundred feet with a
Umited trajectory of eigh
teen feet. Evidence that
the archers missed thousands
of times is seen in the dense
mass of broken arrows which
still stick to the intricate
structure above. One's first
impression is that big birds had attempted to build nests.
Figure 702 is a rough sketch of the appearance of these
¦ AU these facts I derive from a guidebook.

Fig. 701

334

JAPAN DAY BY DAY

Fig. 702
broken arrows which could find lodgment in sheets of copper
which covered the beams. In the field beside the building
and at one side is a little booth where one can hire a bow
and ten arrows for a cent. The target is only halfway down
the field. I hired thirty arrows, and though it was an in-

ARCHERY PRACTICE 335
tensely hot day I managed to hit the target several times, to
the amazement of the old man who had rented the bow. Hav
ing no arm-guard and not being able to twist the bow in
Japanese method as the arrow is released, my wrist has been
raw for two weeks. I may add that shooting only half the
distance my trajectory was nearly as high as the ridge-pole
of the building!
The agreeable way the people enjoy the summer evenings
is everywhere marked. Riding along the banks of any river.

Fig. 703
as in Mikawa and Ise, stagings are seen built along the shore,
or even over the river, and here the famflies collect to eat
supper. On many of the long bridges at evening it seemed as if
the entire population had gathered to enjoy the fresher air
blowing in the river valley.

October 26. Dr. Bigelow and I had an opportunity of visit
ing the crematory at Senju in Tokyo. Getting permission from
the Chief of the Sanitary Bureau, with Mr. Takenaka we
started for the crematory at nine o'clock at night. It was an
hour's ride to the place. I expected to see a barren-looking
region with rather dismal sheds and buildings. Instead I saw

336 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
those features associated with all public works of the city:
neatly swept grounds, trim fences, and the usual number of
pretty trees. On one side of the street is the crematory (fig.
703). It consists of two one-storied, brick bufldings, seventy-
two feet long and twenty-four feet wide. These bufldings are
in line, but are separated from each other by a space of fifty
feet. In this space stands a tall, square chimney, and to the
chimney run large iron flues from the ridges of the bufldings.
Each building is divided into three compartments, having a

Fig. 704
doorway with sliding doors. A flight of steps, as shown in
the sketch, leads to a staging at the junction of the flues with
the chimney, and here is an arrangement for burning coal to
accelerate the upward draft in case many bodies are being
cremated at the same time. Figure 704 shows how each com
partment opens into the flue above.
The simplicity and cleanliness of the appliances used in re
ducing the body to ashes interested us greatly. The furnaces,
or better, the fireplaces, are on the ground, and the body, in a
bent-up position, is placed on the pile, which consists of two
sticks of wood and a little kindling. After the fire has been
going for some time the mass is covered with straw rice-bags.

THE CREMATORY AT SENJU 337
The fireplace consists of a bottom stone, two side stones, and a
head stone, as in the sketch (fig, 705), The bodies are consumed
in three hours; those we saw had been burning two hours, I
pushed the straw away with a stick, and noticed only a few of
the larger bones and these were calcined. The room was full

Fig. 705

^^^^

of smoke, but more from the burning straw than from the
bodies; indeed, there was hardly any odor, though the walls
of the room were black with soot. In one corner were two
little fireplaces for children, in one of which cremation was
going on.
The highest price paid for cremating a body is seven yen.
This is done in a separate building (fig. 706) which contains
but a single fireplace in the centre. The next grade is two yen
and seventy-five sen, about $1.37 in our money. This is done
in the large building, and the body is burned in the large
wooden tub in which it is brought. The third and cheapest

Fig. 706

338 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
grade costs only one yen and thirty sen; in this case the body
only is burned, the tub being saved. The man who superin
tends the work lives close by and has in his keeping the jars
containing the ashes. These jars cost from
six to eight cents apiece according to size.
He gave me one (fig. 707). In the jar was
a little wooden box in which are preserved
the teeth, which are carefully picked out
of the ashes. A curious superstition seems
to prevail about the teeth, and in ancient
times the people made prayers and offerings
on certain days that their teeth might not
loosen. The bodies that were being cremated were of victims
of cholera which was very prevalent in the city. The super
intendent and all engaged in the work did not have that grim
look often associated with sextons, but were cheerful, polite,
and pleasant fellows. We were most favorably impressed
with our experience and wondered how long prejudice would
stand in the way of this sanitary process in our country.
On our ride to the crematory and back we went through the
poorest quarters of the city at an hour when
simflar regions at home would be crowded
with open bar-rooms and charged with vo
ciferous talk. The most decorous New Eng
land village could not have exceeded the quiet
and order prevailing everywhere. It is cer
tainly a wonderful fact that these people are
all so orderly in their obedience to law. The Police Commis
sioner of Boston has said that hoodlumism is the greatest

Fig. 707

A CHARCOAL STOVE 339
menace to our country. There is certainly no such menace
in Japan; indeed, everybody is well behaved.
My room at Tenmon Dai was in a little house built in for
eign style for the attendant of the astronomical observatory.
My only stove is shown in figure 708, a square wooden box in
which is a round earthen vessel filled with ashes; the tongs, in
the shape of iron chopsticks, are seen in one corner in a bam
boo tube. Ice has already formed outside
and my room would be very cold without the
Uttle charcoal fire. I have become accus
tomed to the carbonic acid gas, though most Fig. 708
of it settles through the cracks of the floor;
when it gets too strong I open the door. On inquiry I found
that the Japanese never suffer any inconvenience from burn
ing charcoal, their sole means of heating. The old woman
who buflds my fire, or rather brings in a few hot coals from
her own hibachi, had never heard of the gas being injurious,
nor had she an idea that it could kill one. My room is in a
continual tangle of confusion — the accumulation of pot
tery, ethnological objects for the Museum at Salem, note
books, pictures are all crowded into a little room hardly
big enough for my bed and writing-table. Figure 709 is a
rough sketch of the room from where I sit at the writing-
table. The other day I had the opportunity of sketching a woman
— the wife of the man who looks after my little house — in
the act of blackening her teeth. She told me that she had to
do it every three or four days. A special copper vessel is used
in which to discharge the rinsings of her mouth; a metal shelf

340 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
rests across it, upon which are two brass vessels, one a box in
which are nut galls pulverized and resembling ashes; in the
other a fluid containing iron in solution. This solution she
makes herself by soaking a piece of iron in vinegar, using an
old jar for the purpose. The brush used is a small piece of
wood frayed at one end, the ordinary Japanese toothbrush.

Fig. 709
This she dips into the iron water, then into the nut gall,
and rubs the teeth as if she were cleaning them, rinsing her
mouth now and then from a bowl of water at her side, and
at times taking up a mirror to see if her teeth are sufficiently
blackened. It is said that the operation is good for the teeth
(fig. 710).
The common name for violets is sumo-tori-gusa, sumo-tori
meaning "wrestler," as the children play with the flowers by
hooking them together and puUing them apart to see which
one yields.

THE EMPEROR'S GARDEN 341
The word for "ceiling" in Japanese is tenjo; literally, "hea
ven's well," coming from the same root as our word.
The word for "fool" in Japanese is baka, which literally
means "horse deer." Sea-sickness is called funayoi — "boat
intoxication."

Lib

Fig. 710
For the first time the Emperor's garden has been open for
inspection, by special invitation. A few days ago cards were
sent to all native and foreign professors and, presumably, to
all the Japanese officers of the same rank, for the chrysanthe
mum display. To-day and to-morrow are the days appointed,
and being considered an oflficer of the University, though I have
no oflflcial connection with it now, I was invited. Heretofore
only members of the diplomatic corps among foreigners could
get access to the gardens. Each ticket permitted the pos
sessor to take five members of his family, and it would seem

342 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
that every ticket was used to its fullest capacity. There were
many ladies and children and they were beautifully dressed.
It was delightful to see the perfect behavior of the children —
no shouting, or screaming, no tearing around by the boys. It
was a perfect paradise in itself. I have neither the language nor
the ability to describe the wonderful beauty of the grounds.
The place was of large extent and had originally been built on
a level plain. There had been constructed undulating hiUs;
rock ravines, down which poured mountain brooks; valleys;
bridges; rustic summer houses, — everything to admire.
In our party was a tall foreign teacher (American) re
cently appointed to the University, He was like a bull in a
china shop. He stalked through the grounds and saw nothing
to admire; indeed, his comments were so rude and ridiculous
that we finally got rid of him. Before he left us, however, we
came across a beautiful little summer house shockingly dis
figured within by a cheap, glaring red carpet from abroad, and
this man, for the first time, saw something to praise, and he
commented on its beauty utterly oblivious to this shocking
incongruity in a room with the most delicate and delicious
cabinet-work in natural woods.
The flowers were beautiful in their variety and daintiness.
They were arranged under tastefully constructed shelters of
bamboo and reed matting, though in some instances more
permanent shelters were provided. There were many wonder
ful trees and some of dwarfed varieties, — one with a disk of
dense foliage, twenty feet in diameter, and not over two and
a half feet high, with a trunk a foot in diameter; rustic fences
and bridges, and beautiful little lakes. The Japanese excel

THE EMPEROR'S BIRTHDAY 343
the world in the art of landscape gardening, and they seemed
to enjoy the beauties of every feature, and the foreigners
were equally appreciative, aU except our taU professor, who
appeared bewildered and positively unhappy.
On the 3d of November, Count Enouye, Minister of For
eign Affairs, gave a great party in honor of the Emperor's
birthday. To this party were invited all the foreign diplo
mats and all the teachers with the rank of professor, besides
a great many other high ofiflcers. A thousand invitations
were issued. Count Enouye's house is very large and spa
cious, buflt entirely in foreign style. The grounds were bril
liantly Ughted with gas jets and lanterns. Such a variety of
costumes as were seen ! The Japanese ladies were beautifully
dressed, and the various nationalities ^- French, Russian,
Swiss, German, Italian, EngUsh, and American attaches of
the embassies and the legations — were in their respective
uniforms, many with brifliant decorations. Seven Chinese and
eight Koreans were in their national costumes.
To me the most interesting features were the two Japanese
brass bands, the Army and the Navy, side by side, and play
ing alternately. They were very fuU bands with Japanese
leaders and with aU the modern instruments, playing, with
great precision, music from classical composers. I was amazed
at the crispness and accuracy with which they played and at
the progress they had made in four years; for I had heard the
Army band play four years ago and remembered distinctly
how crude the performance was, and that I came to the con
clusion then that however perfectly the Japanese could acquire
foreign methods, in our music they would certainly fail to

344 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
grasp its meaning and its proper rendering. I argued this way
because the two musics were so entirely unlike. Now I must
alter that conclusion and admit that, so far as our music is
concerned, practice only was required. It would have been
impossible for any one but an expert to have told whether
Japanese were playing or good foreign musicians. It was also
curious to see the number of Japanese ladies and gentlemen
who were joining in the dancing, and who were dancing very
weU too. On both floors of the house a delicious lunch was
served, with wine, champagne, and beer in abundance. On the
grounds outside brilliant fireworks were being discharged, and
the whole affair was a great treat.
I have begun the study of the intricacies of the tea ceremony
and have joined a class of Japanese. My teacher, Mr. Kohitsu,
teUs me I am the first foreigner to take lessons in the art. The
fact that I was taking lessons got into the newspapers, and
also the statement that I had astonished the old feUows at the
school by rapidly identifying the pottery brought out on the
occasion. It seems curious that the newspapers here, as at
home, get hold of all trifling events, social gossip, and the Uke;
it shows that human nature is the same the world over.
The Japanese are said to have no inventive faculties, but in
my rambles around Tokyo I have noticed many mechanical
appUances of a simple nature which our artisans might adopt.
To-day I noticed a man who works in pearl-sheU cutting. The
piece Of pearl to be sawed was held down by an elastic strip of
bamboo bent under a transverse bar above, as shown in figure
711. The saw rested vertically upon the piece to be sawed and
the sand used in the operation remained in place. It was a

Fig. 711

A BLACKSMITH AT WORK 345
simple form of vise that could be instantly adjusted, and the
varying degrees of firmness could be got by selecting stiffer or
lighter strips of bamboo.
The tub wasfuU of water
so that the pieces could
be immediately washed.
Figure 712 represents
a blacksmith at work.
He sits on the ground,
or floor, as do all opera
tives. The beUows con
sist of a long, square
box in which a square
piston is moved back and forth by means of a rod and handle;
with his left leg the blacksmith blows his beUows by grasping
the handle with his foot and moving his leg back and forth,
leaving his two hands free for hammering. In this case the
helper stands up. The tools were not unlike those used by
our blacksmiths at home, though I noticed in some of the
larger hammers, perhaps in aU, that the handle was not in
serted in the middle of the iron part, but nearer to one end.
The floor was littered with bits of iron bolts and the usual
bits and fragments one sees in a blacksmith's shop at home.
Sometimes a boy is employed to blow the bellows, and this
he does with his hands.
In many parts of the city ditches or deep gutters run along
the streets, especially along the walls of yashikis. These
places are the breeding-grounds of the mosquitoes which in
fest the city and are a source of livelihood to the men and

346 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
boys who with nets drag for mosquito larvae and seU them for
goldfish food.
For the last few days professional packers have been at
work packing the pottery, and the floor is covered with boxes
and straw. It is interesting to see their method of wrapping
each piece in straw. The man takes a handful of straw,
combs it out straight with his fingers, gives the mass a twist

Fig. 712
in the middle which spreads the straw at each end like a fan;
the bowl is then put in the centre, and the straw folded over the
rim of the bowl around the edge. Tea-jars are done up in the
same way, the straw being twisted above. With large cylin
drical pieces of irregular contour a long straw rope is made and
wound around the piece. The cook's Uttle girl and a playmate
came to the door and peeked in, the sight of so many speci
mens of pottery amazing them. I invited them in and gave
them some paper and scissors, and the skillful way in which
they cut out dolls and made chickens, herons, and other ob-

EXECUTIONERS 347
jects was surprising. I saved them all and they wfll go to the
Museum in Salem. I gave them a pot of tea and two cups,
and it was interesting to see and to hear them : one poured tea
for the other, and when the cup was passed the child thanked
her as courteously as if they were playing ladies, and yet they
were not playing, they had simply been brought up to be polite.
They were not more than nine or ten years old, dressed poorly,
and were the children of the servants in the yashiki.
The other day I made another visit to the insane asylum
just back of my house. The superintendent was very kind,
spoke a little English, and with my little Japanese we got
along very well. I got a good deal of information about the
percentages of troubles, causes of insanity, etc.
Mr. Machida, the sword merchant, came in to spend the
evening, and I kept him till midnight asking him questions.
In his time he has acted as executioner, having beheaded a
great many criminals, and he told me some very grim stories.
It is curious how different nations regard the same act. An
executioner is loathed and an outcast in some countries and
the professional executioner in Japan is from the Eta class.
In Japan a gentleman considers it a fine chance to try the
temper of his blade by beheading a criminal. For another
reason also : if any of his friends had to commit hara-kiri he
might be caUed upon to do the act of beheading, as the act of
disemboweling is foUowed immediately by beheading by a
friend, who with a quick stroke cuts off the head. One sees a
striking representation of this act in the theatre when the play
of the "Forty-seven Ronins" is presented. The beheading of
a criminal gives a man practice. Mr. Machida told me that it

348 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
did not require such a very hard blow to separate the head
from the body. He said the first time he performed the act he
struck so hard that he broke his sword by striking a rock on
the ground. A bandage is tied about the criminal's eyes; he
kneels upon a mat, in front of which a hole is dug big enough
to admit the body; attendants hold the arms back, and im
mediately after the head drops into the hole the body is
pushed after it and the mat thrown over it. Mr. Machida says
the muscles about the cheeks and lips quiver for some time,
and the same quivering motion is seen in the hands and even
in the whole body. He gave me some interesting details about
the battle of Uyeno at the time of the Restoration.
During the month of November an interesting market is
held back of Asakusa Temple, where a large number of booths
are erected in the streets for the sale of curious charms to in
sure happiness and wealth. These charms are miniature bags
of rice, twisted straw, and other symbols of plenty and happi
ness made of bamboo covered with bright-colored and gilt
papers. In some the ship of fortune is represented holding the
seven treasures; others are in the shape of a fan or rake with
the mask of Otafuku, goddess of Happiness, in the centre, with
various devices about the sides. It was curious to see the nar
row streets and lanes closely crowded with people and lined
with rudely constructed booths, on both sides, packed with
these strange-looking charms and emblems, some of them of
large size, five feet or more in diameter. Throughout the day
of the festival the people are seen returning home bearing
these things in then- hands, or riding in jinrikishas, and if the
objects are large holding them up Uke banners. The objects

SALE OF CHARMS AT A FAIR 349
were always mounted on a rod of bamboo. Figure 713 illus
trates two of these charms, the smafler one showing a dry
measure in the centre with sprigs of rice. These objects
were all roughly made,
and yet, flimsy as they
appeared, they never
seemed to break apart.
They had a decorative
character, too. Near
by was a Shinto tem
ple, before which crowds
of people were praying,
standing seven or eight
deep. A large contribu
tion box stood in front
of this temple, at least
eight feet long and three
or four feet wide and
deep, and into this
dropped a continuous
shower of rins, tempos,
sens, and larger pieces
of money done up in
paper. Near by was a rude stage where some play was going
on accompanied by a drum and flute which kept up an in
cessant noise without a moment's pause. Little children
with shrifl voices aided their parents in caUing out the char
acter of wares that were being sold in the crowd. Two beg
gars kneeling on the ground in an open space were the only

Fig, 713

350 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
evidence of poverty in the mass, A peculiar potato was being
sold to be eaten raw or cooked; mochi was for sale in large
slices; hairpins of the cheapest character — mere tinsel —
were sold as souvenirs of the fair; and everybody was smiling
and happy. The celebration was a new one to me and weU
worth seeing,
A fat and good-natured friend by the name of Sakurai, whom
I first met at Nagoya under the name of Gonza, and who
helped me greatly in that city in hunting up pottery and di
recting me to the proper shops, has come to Tokyo, He has
brought not only documents relating to early potters of Seto,
but also a number of objects of interest, and is stopping in
Tokyo, at some considerable expense to himself, in order to
help me pack. His wife and daughter at Nagoya sent me by
express a rare old Owari bowl that may prove to be a Gempin,
The present was accompanied by a letter in katakana which
Takenaka has translated. It runs as follows : —
"We write to you. How you are? Getting very well? We
congratulate you are well this time, Gonza went to you and
you bought many from him. He sent me very much money,
I thank you very much. We present this bowl to you and glad
to express my thanks. We wish you to carry it to your native
country, I got this bowl from a yashiki. It is very old. Please
use it. We hope very much that you wfll get home in safety.
We send only a few words. We happy. We congratulate,
"Goes to Morse Esq, Nov, 10,
"TsuRu, Mother.
"Haku, Daughter."

JAPANESE GESTURES 351
In regard to Japanese gestures, a few are like ours and
others are quite different. Takenaka told me that a com
mon gesture was, when one asked of a friend some good thing
like candy, for the friend to pull down the eye giving a sort of
leer, as much as to say, " Don't you wish you could get it? " In
beckoning with the hand, the back of the hand is uppermost,
though the fingers move in the same way that ours do. In say
ing "no" the hand is moved back and forth in front of the
face. In talking with a friend about the similarity between the
gestures of the two peoples, I caUed attention to the resem
blance in expressions of amazement, perplexity as shown in
rubbing the nose, etc, but the expressions in displeasure differ.
With us we usually frown and compress the eyes, but the Jap
anese when "mad" open their eyes wide; and a boy who has
done something wrong wiU get a scolding, or Omedama
chodai; literally, a "gift of eyeballs," A curious movement
is made if the finger is slightly burned : the lobe of the ear is
instantly grasped; the ear is always cool, which aUeviates the
pain. In the coUege dormitories students are not permitted to
have any kind of musical instruments, nor are they allowed to
play chess and go, as it would interfere with their studies.
Their work, beginning early in the morning, is one hard grind ;
subjects precisely like those taught in our colleges at home are
studied, but aU in English, or, in the Medical College, in Ger
man, A samurai boy rises at six o'clock, washes his face beside
the well, then reads some book in a loud tone of voice, ^ The
• Reading aloud is customary, as otherwise they say they cannot understand
' what they are reading. In college as they progress in their studies they lose this
'. habit.

352 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
grade of different dormitories is recognized by the noise the
students make in their reading. After an early breakfast the
boy goes to school, and must write through six or seven
books, forty pages to a book, and four large characters to
each page. The pages are written on again and again, the
wet ink showing clearly on the dried ink, A lazy boy wiU
sometimes make splashes on the page, but the teacher can
generally detect the trick and the boy is kept after school as
a punishment. The boy always takes his lunch box with
him and comes home "hungry as a bear." His mother gives
him cake which he eats greedily; he then plays until supper,
and after studying his lesson for the next day goes to bed.
A class of girls are found in Japan of which we have no
parallel in our country: they are known as geisha, and it is the
duty of these geisha to entertain company, the wife and daugh
ters not appearing. For instance, you give a dinner to some
friends, and you may employ two or more of these girls, who
not only help in the pouring of wine, but by their bright and
witty conversation put everybody in good humor. Many of
them are quite pretty and all dress beautifully. I remember
meeting at one dinner a geisha who was not only unusually
plain-looking, but who was quite old. On inquiring about her
of a Japanese friend, — for I had supposed before that the
geisha were employed for their beauty, and possibly youth, —
I found that she was one of the most famous geisha in Tokyo.
To a dinner party of a dozen men, ofiflcers of the Government,
perhaps of irreconcflable pohtical views, this geisha, by her
amiabiUty and conversational skiU and wit, would, within a
short time, bring harmony, good-nature, and a freedom of

GEISHA GIRLS 353
action that for the time being would melt the crowd into a
congenial whole. In our country it is a common experience
for us to invite some young lady to a dinner solely for the pur
pose of having things go off pleasantly, but we do not pay
her. In Japan it is a profession, and these good-natured, witty,
and sprightly girls, polite and gentle, represent a large class
who earn their living by entertaining at dinners and gatherings
of all sorts, and they are certainly, in their manners and accom
plishments, far more entertaining than the usual run of girls
and women one meets outside this class. These girls often
marry from the chance acquaintances made on these occa
sions, and it may be said with truth that love matches are
sometimes made during these festivities.
In using an arrow to pull something from behind my bureau
I broke it, which led Mr, Takenaka to inform me that in past
times the Japanese made their arrows purposely very weak
that they might not be used again by their enemy.
Mr. Machida came in a jinrikisha full of weapons: long
spears and various warlike implements; fans for military sig
naling; a beautiful bow and quiver with twelve arrows; all the
unplements used by fencers in practice, sword and spear; and
these he gave to me for the Peabody Museum, Salem. The
swords he is going to bring next week, I am having many
things given to me for the Peabody Museum, but this gift of
Machida's is by far the most important accession.
Yesterday two Koreans, father and son, whom I have met
several times, came to bid me good-bye, as the father is soon
to return to Korea, The son speaking Japanese we got along
quite well untfl I tried to ask the father if he had anything

354 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
Korean of no particular use to him to give me for our Museum,
This was more than I could say in Japanese and after floun
dering for a whfle I sent out for a Japanese friend to inter
pret. He said he would see if there were any articles in his
room. Last night eight different articles were given to me, aU
Korean and all of interest.
Japanese farmers eat five or six times a day, principally
rice, radishes, fish, etc. It has been ascertained by actual
measurement (so Takenaka, who is a medical student, in
forms me) that the Japanese stomach is larger than that of
foreigners; this may have been caused by the large amount of
rice they consume. It is amazing to see in the country little
children with abdomens roundly distended by the quantity of
rice with which they have literally stuffed themselves,
Mr, Takamine, Director of the Female Normal School, went
with me to the Imado District, where there are a number of
potteries, and endeavored to get some information about the
potters. But the people seemed rather stupid, sluggish, or in
different, and I could not arouse in them any interest in the
matter, I finally left with the conviction that the blighting
effects of some rude Englishman must have been responsible
for their stupidity or aversion. The contrast with the Kyoto
potters was marked.
Takamine invited me to dinner at his house. There were a
number at dinner, and I felt as much at home on my knees for
an hour or more with chopsticks and strange food, to which I
have become accustomed, as I do at home sitting in a chair
using a knife and fork. After dinner Mr, Takaminfe conducted
us to the tea-rooms, where were aU the utensils for cha-no-yu

THE ETA CLASS 355
and invited me to make ceremonial tea, which I did, after a
fashion. Afterwards Takamine guided me to the Eta district. The
Eta were formerly looked upon as unclean; they worked
in hides and leather, carried off the bodies of animals, and
were in a general way the scavengers of the city. No one was
allowed to marry into the class; they were shunned and ab
horred, though some of them were wealthy. They were com
pelled to live apart from the people in a certain district and no
one ever went through their region. Now all legal restrictions
are removed, yet the Eta live by themselves. The main street
has a peculiarly deserted appearance, — not a jinrikisha is to
be seen and hardly any shops; a few signs, but no paper signs
or lanterns in front of the shops. I passed five places where
they were making drums, as the work of drum-making in
volves the handling of leather. It seemed as if the children
looked a little coarser, but there was no humble or crushed
appearance in the people such as I had expected to see. Per
fect quietness and soberness reigned. The children were spin
ning tops and running about as in other places but a certain
serious atmosphere was there without question.
I met at the Normal School an educated Ainu from Sapporo
in Yezo. He has a typical Ainu face and is able to converse
fluently in Japanese. I asked him a number of questions about
his people. He said the Ainus made no pottery, and, so far as
he knew, they never had, I got from him all the details re
garding the bow and arrow and how the hand was held in
drawing the bow. The Ainus draw the arrow with the thumb
and bent forefinger. It will be interesting to ascertain whether

356 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
the lowest savages have this simple method of releasing the
arrow and if the higher races have a more complex method, ^
I also learned that the Ainus shoot arrows at the feet of a
man running away.
In the preparation of flax in Suo an enormous cylinder of
wood, made like a barrel and tapering above, open at both
ends, is filled with flax,
and this is placed over a
kettle of water fixed in
the ground and fired be
low; the water is then
boiled for some time,
the steam passing up
through the flax, A de
vice like a well-sweep
lifts the cylinder when
the flax is sufficiently
steamed (fig, 714),
Ninagawa's obsequies
were observed to-day,
and I was invited to at
tend. As he died of cholera no public funeral was allowed
at the time, and now, after three months, the obsequies are
held, I went early with Takenaka to the cemetery beyond
Uyeno, and while waiting for the procession, sketched a few
' I have since ascertained that the low savage people have this simple method as
described. See Memoir on Ancient and Modem Methods of Arrow Release. Essex
Institute, Bulletin, Salem, Massachusetts, vol. xvii (1885). The last edition of the
Encyclopaedia Britannica gives this reference as foUows: "Archery Ancient and
Modern, by E. S. Morse, Worcester, Mass., 1792."

Fig. 714

AN HONORARY FUNERAL

357

gravestones, and then watched the main avenue to meet the
funeral when it arrived. Soon it came: first, twelve men
bearing new, white lanterns on bamboo poles; the men were
dressed in white and had curiously shaped
ceremonial black hats made of silk (fig. 715);
following these were two men bearing enor
mous bouquets of flowers; then a long affair
borne on the shoulders of six men, the hearse,
in fact: empty, of course, but representing
the remains of Ninagawa (fig. 716). Follow
ing this came the mourners, a sister of Nina
gawa, his nephew, and a number of other per
sons whom I did not know, some on foot and
others riding in jinrikishas. I had often seen
these funerals on the street and had supposed they were genu
ine, but many of them are simply honorary funerals. The
hearse was carried into a large building open on all sides, but
protected by a white curtain that fluttered back and forth in
 the wind. It was quite cold.

and it was uncomfortable to
sit there bareheaded.
Figure 717 is a hasty sketch
of the appearance of the in
terior when the service be
gan. The hearse, or bier, is

Fig. 715

^^

1^

\

\

/)

Fig. 716

seen to the left resting on two supports; masses of flowers are
in stands at the ends of the bier; then come two lacquer
tables, one lower than the other, and resting against the
larger one is the wooden post bearing Ninagawa's name.

358 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
This is carried in the procession and is used as a temporary
gravestone. The tables held cups and objects of polished
brass, with food offerings on black lacquer stands, six can
dles burning in simple wooden candlesticks. The priests, aU
shaven and shorn, wearing beautiful brocade robes, marched
in and took positions as shown in the sketch. A bench on
each side accommodated the chief mourners. I sat on the
right next to a high priest who for some reason did not join

Fig. 717

the other priests, but continued to mutter a prayer. The
kneeling priests opened their prayer-books, which they placed
on the floor in front of them, but never looked at them. A
low, humming sound, begun by the head priest, was taken
up gradually by the rest. The sound, though apparently
meaningless, as I could not detect a single articulate word,
was not without interest. It sounded Uke a dirge. After
the humming had gone on for a while one of the priests picked
up a large pair of cymbals and clanged them several times.
Then the other priests uttered short prayers, rolUng their

AN HONORARY FUNERAL 359
heads in their hands, terminating with a short whisk or
movement of the head, and resuming their chant, which
seemed interminable in the cold wind. Then the head priest
(whose head is accurately depicted in the sketch), after the

© m #a€^ ®

i

s

p.^

UT

©§ §(9

Incense
Fig. 718

(S,

f

cymbals had been clanged again, rose, untied a large fold of
paper, and in a pathetic, or funereal, tone read a brief account
of Ninagawa — who he was, what he did, etc.
At this point Ninagawa's sister rose and stood in front of
the table, marked "incense" in figure 718, on which was a
receptacle for coals, and at each side of which was a little box

360 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
of incense. She first clasped her hands and made a low bow;
then out of the left-hand box she took a piece of incense and
put it on the coals, again bowed low, and took her seat. The
nephew foUowed next, going through the same movements; and
then, to my surprise, the Japanese sitting next to me nudged
me to go up, but I whispered to hun in what Japanese I could
command to go first, that I might watch him intently. He
took the incense from the right-hand
box. I had to go next and must con
fess to some embarrassment, as in
the presence of eight priests I had
to fold my hands, make a low bow,
and take the incense from the right-
hand box.
There were no tears or other evi
dences of grief, but there was cer
tainly a soberness, even solemnity,
in the ceremony. Fifty or sixty
people stood near the building and
probably wondered at the novel sight
of a bare-headed foreigner in long ulster among the mourn
ers. After the burning of the incense the ceremony ended.
The sister, an old lady of sixty or more, came to thank me
for my kindness in joining the mourners; the nephew also
thanked me. The wife does not go to the cemetery until the
day following, and for that reason Mrs. Ninagawa was not
present. Figure 718 is a rough diagram of the affair showing
where the priests and mourners sat.
Figure 719 represents a Buddhistic gravestone; this one is

Fig. 720

GRAVESTONES 361
an old style. The holes in the rock are to hold flowers. On
the Buddhistic gravestone the spiritual name is used, a name
that one receives after death. On the Shinto, the real name
of the deceased is engraved with
a brief account of his life. The
Shinto stone shows the natural
cleavage of the rock as it is quar
ried. Figures 720, 721 represent
Shinto gravestones.
The Japanese worship their
heroes and never forget to deco
rate their graves, even those hundreds of years old. In 1338
Yoshisada was kiUed in battle while fighting to restore Go
Daigo, the rightful Mikado, to his throne. To this day his
grave is carefully guarded and fresh flowers decorate it. A
shrine and monument were erected in 1875. Other burial-
places equally old are cared for in the same manner.
After the funeral I hurried to Takamine's house, where he
had invited a northern archer to shoot for
me that I might sketch the attitude of the
hand in drawing the arrow. The Chinese
use a thumb-ring to engage the string in
pulling the bow. The Japanese use a long-
wristed glove with two or three fingers and
a thumb, the thumb greatly thickened.
There is a groove at the base to catch the
string, and a strap secures the glove firmly
about the wrist. Figures 722, 723 represent the attitude of
the hand in pulUng the bow; figure 724 shows the archer's

Fig. 721

362 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
glove. The release is somewhat dflficult to acquire, but it
is just as strong as that of our people, which consists in pull
ing the string back with the
tips of three fingers.
I hunted up an authority
on pottery who had been a
high oflflcial, but who had
lost his place through in
temperate habits and was a
Fig. 722 bankrupt. He was living in
an obscure house with evi
dences of poverty, and his condition was pathetic. He had a
big boil on his neck and a severe cough, his house was in dis
order, and the futons showed that he had been lying down, but
he invited me in without hesitation or apology. I inquired
about various pottery authorities. He said Mr. Kohitsu was a
good one, and also gave me a letter to Mr. Kashiwagi.
Though it was nearly six o'clock and dark, I hunted the
latter up, or my jinrikisha man did, and finally found, on the
corner of an open square, three
gloomy-looking godowns, or
kura. I went through a low
opening in a bamboo fence, fif
teen feet high, and was shown
into one of the godowns (fig.
725). Mr. Kashiwagi intro
duced me to three men, all
antiquarians. He was very kind and showed me a number
of interesting things which I immediately sketched, and he

Fig. 723

A JAPANESE ANTIQUARIAN 363
also gave me many points of interest regarding a number of
potteries of which he seemed to have knowledge. He said
the idea^that "Satsuma floral deco
rated" was over eighty yearsold was
absurd. His remarks on pottery are
recorded in my pottery notes. He has
the rarest collection of old Japanese
coins, ancient pottery a thousand and
more years old, rare pictures, and
many other things. Every object in
the room was old and rare. The hiba
chi was very old; the lower half was of
lacquer inlaid with pearl, the motive
of decoration being horses' bits !
I also learned some new points regarding house matters.
The way the Japanese convert a large, cold, barny room of a
fireproof building into a pleasant place to live in is shown in fig
ure 726. A square framework of bamboo is erected conform
ing in shape to the room, but smaller, leaving a passageway of
three and a half feet between the frame and the sides of the

Fig. 724

Fig. 725

364 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
room. This framework is covered with cloth, slightly glazed,
and as it is smaUer one can walk between the cloth and the sides
of the room. He showed me an old book published in 1700 in
which fuU directions were given for constructing this frame
and hanging the cloth. It is evidently an old idea and showed
that these fireproof buildings were utiUzed as living-rooms.
I had never seen the device
before, though I have been in
side a good many of the bufld
ings. In summer the room
must be very cool and agree
able. The walls of the godown
were lined with bookcases and
cabinets and here Mr. Kashi-
wagi's books and treasures
were stowed away. The cur
tain is looped up, forming an
opening into which he would
dive for some object, and I
could follow him about by the
light of the candle which faintly
glimmered through the cloth.
Some time ago, Mr. Masuda told me of an antiquarian he
wanted me to meet, and I have tried to make an appointment
to go with Mr. Masuda to the place. Last night I called again
on Mr, Kashiwagi, but he had not returned. After waiting
a little while he came in, accompanied by Mr. Masuda, who
appeared surprised and delighted to see me and wondered how
I had found the place. Seven or eight antiquarians were there.

Fig. 726

THE INTEREST IN ANTIQUITIES 365
and it was delightful to talk with them and to discuss pottery
and other precious things which Mr. Kashiwagi brought out.
I have acquired enough Japanese to get along easily in dis
cussing pottery and antiquities and do not require an in
terpreter. The appreciation of these old things is shown by
everybody, and scholars meet to discuss subjects of every kind ;
it is one evidence among hundreds of others of their long and
high civilization.
To-day I was invited to dinner by Prince Fushimi-no-Miya,
at the Seiyoken, at Uyeno. There were twenty-one guests,
nearly all governors of provinces. I met there the Gover
nor of Nagasaki, who was so
kind to me when I dredged at
Nagasaki some years ago. I
sat at the right hand of the
Prince, and as he is President
of the Fish Commission, I im
agine the dinner was given to
me in return for a lecture I
gave before his commission
some months ago.
I visited Matsura Takashiro, an antiquarian of some note,
who. received me very kindly. He has recently published a
work on antiquities in two foUo volumes with exceUent illus
trations of rare objects in his collection, I had an introduction
from Mr, Hattori, Vice-Director of the University, The serv
ant brought out a number of boxes, and these Mr. Matsura
unlocked with keys from a large bunch, each key having an
ivory tag, Whfle he was unlocking the boxes the girl brought

Fig. 727

366 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
three stands which she placed in the tokonoma. He then took
out long strings of beads, chiefly magatama, a comma-shaped
stone, and other forms composed of quartz, jasper, and other
minerals, and hung these on the stands (fig. 727). Many of
them were of great rarity, most of them from Japan, and all
dating back to a dim historic past. They were all dug up
from burial mounds and caves, and some are found in earthen
jars. The magatama extends from Loochiu Islands on the
south to northern Japan, Mr, Matsura had never heard of a
_-.,.^^ magatama being found in Yezo, or
_ ^ ^^ ^^~vi China, but other kinds of stone beads
^ ^^ 3^6 found in China, He has the larg-
FiG 728 ^^^ collection of these objects in Ja
pan and all of the younger Siebold's
material for his work on "Japanese Antiquities" was drawn
from Matsura Takashu-o's coUection, He has many other
heads in drawers, of which I sketched a few (fig. 728).
I was telling Takenaka about our boys when very young
playing with dolls and paper soldiers. He told me that the
samurai boys were never allowed to play with dolls or such
things; their bringing-up was intended to train them as war
riors; they were to keep sober when others laughed. At meals
the boys rarely, if ever, talk, and it impresses them as very
odd to hear foreigners talk so incessantly at their meals. It
is dififlcult for them to understand some of our jokes, and
what we caU "chaff" is incomprehensible to them.
Figure 729 ^ is taken from a humble house that I passed every
' I cannot resist reproducing the original sketch, a drawing of which appeared
in Japanese Homes, as most characteristic of Japanese taste.

AN INTERESTING SODE-GAKI 367
day on my way to the University, The occupant had some
pottery he wished to show me, and whfle he was taking the
pieces from the boxes I made the sketch. The interesting way
in which a large fragment of an old shipwreck is worked into
the general effect is unique. The rich, gray color of the wood

Fig. 729

368 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
with warm, red stains of iron rust, the little holes bored by
Teredos, and the appearances of age are all features which the
Japanese admire. The door of the latrine is just beyond and
this ship fragment takes the place of the sode-gaki. I have
often observed a peculiar fence which projects from the ver
anda, or from the side of a house, never more than four or five
feet. It hides some objectionable features from the veranda,
and we might adopt it with advantage. It is called sode-gaki.
Kaki means "fence" and is changed to gaki for euphony;
sode means " sleeve," it being shaped like the sleeve of a Japa
nese dress. ^
One often notices along the streets women engaged in
smoothing strips of cloth on long, narrow boards that lean
against the house or fence. The surface of the board is very
smooth. It is first rubbed with a seaweed that is sold for
the purpose. Wet with water it gives out a gelatinous sub
stance. The wet cloth is smoothed down on this board and
placed in the sun to dry. When the cloth is pulled from the
board, it is smooth as if it had been ironed and stiffened as if it
had been starched. A similar idea is resorted to in our coun
try when a wet handkerchief is smoothed down on a window
pane. A device is seen in the form of a metal pan with handle
and polished bottom. This is fflled with burning charcoal and
used as we use a flatiron. In drying cloth after dyeing, little
strips of bamboo sharpened at the ends with shoulders are
used to stretch the cloth apart, the cloth being suspended from
two poles. A great many are used on a single piece of cloth.
1 I have Japanese books giving many of these sleeve-fences, and in Japanese
Homes I have figured a number of them drawn from the gardens here.

CHILDREN AT A FAIR 369
The other night I took two Uttle girls, children of the ser
vants about the yashiki, to walk along the Hongo where a
fair or matsuri was going on. I gave them each ten cents in
coppers to spend, and I was interested to see how they would
invest the money. It was like giving a chfld in similar cir
cumstances in our country a doflar in change. The chfldren
stopped at every booth where hairpins were displayed, and
though buying only one or two at half a cent apiece, neverthe
less, examined every one. We passed a poor woman sitting on
the ground dolefully playing a samisen, a beggar, in fact, and
each of the chfldren without a hint from me dropped a cent
into her basket.
Miyaoka spent the night with me, and among other things
told me that in past times, and even at present among the
superstitious, it is believed that when a person sleeps the
spirit roams away. It was therefore customary to give a chfld
a drink of water before going to bed, whether thirsty or not,
to prevent the child's spirit from being thirsty and drinking
stagnant water whfle on its wanderings.
I inquired of Miyaoka about his personal expenses. He
said his board, including charcoal and oil, amounted to five
dollars and fifty cents a month. It is true he gets only rice,
vegetables, and fish, but how low compared to our prices! Mr.
Takamine told me that many of the servants about the Normal
School, men who had famflies, work on a wage of fifteen cents
a day. Coming out of the college yard the other day with Pro
fessor Mitsukuri, one of the attendants bowed to us as he
passed, and my friend remarked that the man, before the

370 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
Revolution of 1868, ranked higher than a samurai and just
below a daimyo. The Restoration left him utterly incompe
tent to earn a living and he was capable of fifling only a serv
ant's place. The Professor said it was a good illustration
of the absurd conditions of some features of feudalism, at the
same time showing the patient manner in which these men
often assume menial positions with resignation and humflity
and are willing to work rather than to beg or borrow. I was told
that samurai had become jinrikisha men; it is true they were
not high samurai, but the fact that they work indicates an
absence of the false pride so common with our race. The
man who looks after my laboratory has a salary of twenty-five
cents a day, and on this he supports a wife and a daughter
who is taking music lessons.
Yesterday I went through a street from which ran little
alleyways, not over five feet wide, lined with dwelling-houses.
It looked squalid to me, and Mitsukuri told me that it was the
lowest and poorest quarter of the city. I went slowly along
and examined each alley in turn. I heard no loud cries or
shouting, saw no blear-eyed drunkards or particularly dirty
chfldren, and for a hundred chfldren picked at random from
what might be called slums, though slums they were not, I
would venture that they were more polite and graceful in
manner, less selfish, more considerate for the feeUng of others
than a hundred children picked at random from upper Fifth
Avenue, New York.
During my life in Japan I saw but one street fight, and this
was so remarkable in its performance and surroundings that
as usual I compared the action with shnflar experiences at

A STREET FIGHT 371
home. To describe our street fight would be unnecessary,
as afl know that from the smallest boy to the old man a crowd
instantly gathers, forms a ring, and watches the combat with
excited interest, admiring the punches and regretfully de
parting when the battle is finished or the police interfere. In
the Japanese affair the men were simply pulling hair! I was
the only one who watched. Every one else showed disgust or
horror at such a breach of good manners, and a wide berth was
given the fighters, people actually turning aside in passing.
In cities the houses are generally tUed, though there are
many shingled roofs; in the immediate suburbs many thatched
roofs are seen. Vast conflagrations occur in Tokyo on account
of the inflammable character of the roofs, the shingles being
hardly thicker than playing-cards and the thatched roof as
sensitive to a cinder as gunpowder.
I have made many visits to Mr. Kashiwagi's, and to-day
Dr. Bigelow went with me. He became greatly interested in
the old lacquer boxes in the collection. For the first time I
went up to the second story of the godown; it was literally
crammed with boxes, cabinets, and various objects, all an
tique. Mr. Kashiwagi is one of the pleasantest men I have
met in Japan. He is not afraid to say he does n't know when
some questions are asked of him, and does not approve of
Ninagawa's method of trying to tell the exact age of an ob
ject. Mr. Kashiwagi is full of antiquarian lore, and he gave
me the other day the most rational explanation of the two
brocade bands that hang down from the upper part of a
kakemono. In former times the pictures were of a religious
character, and when hung were supported on frames, long

372 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
bands trafling down behind, and short ones in front; and when
the picture was roUed up it was tied by these bands. The
open character of the temples, with the wind blowing
0 J through, compeUed the roUing-up of the pictures
without removing them from the frames. Nowa
days, when the kakemono is roUed up, it is taken
down and packed away in a box. In old books he
showed me illustrations in which curtains were
looped up by similar bands. The longer bands have
disappeared, but the shorter ones in front have sur
vived like the buttons on the back of one's coat. As
a proof of the correctness of this explanation, the
name of these bands is futai or kazeobi, the latter
meaning "wind band."
I noticed the children playing with great anima
tion a game with their hands, in which, at the end
of the doggerel they were shouting, they clapped
Fig. 730 their hands three times and then gave the gesture
for "judge," "fox," or "hunter." I asked them to
recite the words slowly and took them down, with sketches of
the various attitudes of the hand. The words as near as I could
get them were as follows: —
Ikken ki na sei (play once)
Cho bisuke san (Mr. Smafl, meaning httle finger)
Janome no karakasa (eye of dragon umbreUa)
San gai e de (third story of house)
Shichi ku deppo go sai na (?)
Mu teppo de (without gun)
Yoil yal na! (?)

TOBACCO PIPES 373
Figure 730 is a rude sketch of the attitudes of the hand in
the recital.
I give sketches of Yezo and Saghalien tobacco pipes, as
given to me by Matsura Takashiro, who made rough sketches
of them which I accurately copied. The Korean pipe has a
larger bowl than the Japanese or Ainu pipe, but otherwise is
much the same in form. It is interesting to look over old

Fig. 731

Japanese prints, three hundred years old, and notice the ab
sence of pipes, an object so universally used by the Japanese,
and appearing repeatedly in picture prints since that time.
(Fig. 731. A, Early Japanese pipe made of iron; B, C, Ainu
pipes ; D, Manchurian ; E, Saghalien.)
To-day (Sunday, December 16) I went, by invitation of
Professor Yatabe, to a large one-hundred-mat hall beyond the
river to listen to Japanese music, story-telling, etc. A club
having about eighty members was formed last March, and is
intended to bring together for the first time ladies and gentle
men at social meetings. When I went in and took my seat

374 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
on a mat, I received about thirty bows from as many differ
ent people whom I knew. Many of my Japanese friends are
members of the club, among them Mrs. Takamine, young
Mrs. Takamine, Mrs. Kikuchi, Professor Kikuchi's Uttle sis
ter. Professors Hattori, Toyama, Koizumi, Matsubara, and Mi
tsukuri. Each member has the privilege of inviting one guest,
and the result was the bringing together of over a hundred
pleasant and delightful people: bright, cultivated men and
women and a few lovely
children. The haU was a
great airy room with the
audience sitting on the
mats, drinking tea and
smoking. At one end of
the haU was a sUghtly
raised platform, or rather
a long, low table, covered with a red cloth, on which the per
formers were to sit. First came music — two kotos, a sami
sen, and a flute-like instrument; after this a story-tefler,
and though I could catch only a word here and there it
was interesting to watch his various gestures as he por
trayed the different characters in his story; the embarrassed
fellow twisting his fingers together; the expressions of a
countryman and the unceasing and rattling jabber of an old
woman were all perfectly rendered and made everybody laugh.
So strongly and promptly marked were the imitations of the
different voices that with the eyes closed one would think that
there were three distinct people talking. One often passes in
some open lot a big tent from which issue the sounds appar-

FiG. 732

PROFESSIONAL STORY-TELLERS 375
ently of a number of people disputing. Looking in, you see a
story-teller with a rapt audience about him hanging onto every
word and at times bursting into surprised laughter. Women
and girls are never seen in these places, where it is considered
improper for them to go; just as in our country one never, or
rarely, sees a woman in the crowd that surrounds an oratori
cal street peddler. After this came a peculiar kind of story, —
a very common form in Japan, — in which the story-teUer
partly recites and partly sings his story, accompanied by an
other performer who plays the samisen, keeping up an extra
ordinary vocal accom
paniment with curious
guttural sounds, short
notes, high squeaks, even
sobbing sounds and as- V/jj|
tonishing ejaculations, ^^^ ^23
appropriate to the parts
depicted in the story. Strange as it may seem, people are
affected to tears by pathetic recitals in this style. When one
hears this form of story-teUing it impresses one as highly
absurd; becoming accustomed to it one can somewhat un
derstand the reason for the vocal accompaniment in express
ing emotions of pain, anger, despair, etc, but it is entirely
beyond description. The samisen, too, is made to form an
important auxiliary, for all kinds of sounds are evoked from
it — crescendo, sobs, abrupt notes and weird notes — by
running the fingers up and down the string whfle vibrating it
(fig, 732), It was interesting and delightful to see this cour
teous and cultivated audience so gentle, quiet, and apprecia-

376 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
tive, as they came in one after another, kneeUng on the mats
and bowing here and there.
In an old makimono, nearly six hundred years old, with
a panoramic picture of the erection of a temple, the dishes
designed for food are of lacquer, and
this explains why so Uttle progress was
made in the fictile art in the early
days. Only the very poorest people
used pottery in those days. Unglazed
and lathe-turned, as weU as hand-manipulated, pottery was
used for vessels of offering in burial-places.
I was in search of samples of Ainu cloth, or clothing, and
was directed to a place beyond Eitaibashi. After a long hunt
and a number of inquiries, I found a house where the people
showed me an Ainu apron and other objects. When I asked
the price, they insisted upon giving them to me. When I told
them the objects were for the Peabody Museum, it made no
difference. They told me that if I would come down on the 19th
of December, they would have other Ainu objects to show me.
So to-day I went there again, and they brought out an Ainu

Fig. 735

garment, leggings, needle-case, and another apron. Again I
attempted to buy the objects, offering them ten dollars, the
coat always being expensive, but again they positively refused

GIFTS FROM STRANGERS 377
to seU, and made me take them as a gift to the Peabody Mu
seum, I gave them some trflling presents, and I have invited
them on Sunday to go to the University Museum and to my
snug quarters, where I shaU give them tea and sake. These
persons were absolute strangers to me, and this iUustrates
again the generous nature of the people. There was a model
of an Ainu anchor (fig, 733) ; a genuine boat-bailer (fig. 734) ;
an Ainu scoop net, with handle fifteen feet long (fig. 735) —a

Fig. 736
very heavy and clumsy affair; and a model of an
Ainu fishing boat (fig. 736) — all for the Educa
tional Museum, Uyeno Park, The boat was
curious in that the pieces were fastened together with cords
and not with wooden pins. The boat differs greatly from the
boats I saw at Hakodate and Otarunai, these being modeled
after Japanese forms. Figure 737 represents the basket in
which the Ainu carries the fish from the boat to the packing
house. It is sunply a rude basket fastened to a board, which
in tum is strapped to the back of the fisherman, A pair of
Ainu boots made from the skin of a salmon (fig, 738) was
given to me; the leg is very large, making the foot appear very
short, I was told that the leg and foot were stuffed with
straw to keep the feet warm. These boots are used by the
Ainu on the I shikari River.

378

JAPAN DAY BY DAY

Fig. 737

The Female Normal School, of which Mr. Takamine is
Director, was burned and with it the beautiful hall near the
old Chinese coUege. The latter buflding was fortunately
saved. The conflagration was intense
in its heat and the firemen were help
less in getting near enough to do any
good. There is no Umit to the courage
displayed by the firemen, but courage
counts for nothing without proper
weapons to fight with. Figure 739 is
a hasty sketch made at the fire.
The contents of a godown often resemble those of a garret
or shed — old chests, baskets, corn drying, and the rejecta
menta of a house, saved by the spirit of frugaUty in the hopes
that sometime they may be useful.
In case of fire the contents of a
house, which after all amount at
most to but a few objects, are
hurried into the godown. As there
are no bedsteads, chairs, or lounges
and but few books, and as the valu
able pictures and bric-a-brac are
kept permanently in the godown,
this is soon accomphshed, the doors
are closed and hermetically sealed
with mud, which is always on hand
in tubs, and sometimes, as in busi
ness streets, in front of the shop below the ground, access
being had to it by a little trap door.

Fig. 738

A RECEPTION AT A TEA-HOUSE 379
I called on one of my special students, Mr. Sasaki. He has
been married a few months, but I never knew of it tiU to-day.
It seems to be an event that the Japanese never talk about.

Fig. 739
and when one is married it is always a matter of surprise.
Two days ago I was invited by Mr. Mitsukuri to meet his wife
with other friends at a tea-house. I am now so accustomed
to Japanese Ufe that it is becoming hard to realize how differ
ent it is from ours. At the tea-house was a large, spacious

380 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
room, absolutely devoid of furniture except for a row of square
boxes in a line on each side and at the end of the room; in the
boxes charcoal was burning in the ashes, and at each box was
a soft, square cushion upon which one kneels. As I entered
the room, where many had assembled with Mrs. Mitsukuri
at the left of the entrance, down I went on my knees with
hands in front and head touching the mat; it seemed per
fectly natural for me to do so, and she did the same. As each
one arrived his name was announced, and each one bowed to
the bride. I knew nearly every one, and I noticed, as in many
of these gatherings, that I was the only foreigner present.
Food was brought in on trays; geisha and little girls passed the
trays, poured sake, danced, sang, and made everything joyous.
When we came away the untouched portions of our food were
given us in the neatest of boxes to take home.

CHAPTER XXVI
FALCONRY AND OTHER MATTERS
Last Sunday (December 24) Dr. Bigelow and I were in
vited by Prince Kuroda to his place in the suburbs of Tokyo
to see the method of falconry. We reached the house at half-
past eight, and immediately went to the hunting-lodge, —
for so it might be called, — an open, shed-like affair sheltered
from the north wind and open to the sun, with a big square hole
in the middle of the floor, fflled with burning charcoal, where
one could warm the hands and feet. There were tables and
chairs, cigars, tea, and cake. An electric bell connected it with
the duck ranges in the vicinity. Another room was occupied
by the servants, the hawkers hving outside. On a long rest
were a number of curiously shaped nets on long poles, and at
one side a small building with several compartments in which
were kept the hawks.
After we had been waiting at the lodge a Uttle while, the
bell sounded, and we were told to start for the ranges. A
hawker came after us supporting on his left hand a handsome,
slender-looking falcon. The bird showed no signs of fear and
stood very erect and expectant, with brifliant yeUow and black-
pupfled eyes. The grounds upon which we entered were
cut up into narrow passageways bordered by high embank
ments upon which grew dense masses of bamboo. We entered
a long, open place bordered on one side by bamboo groves.

382 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
and on the other side by a series of openings between the em
bankments with the simflar crests of bamboo. These bamboo
groves and fringes were intended to shield one from the
wfld ducks which might take alarm, though wild birds are so
tame in Japan that there seemed hardly need of screens of
any sort.
First, however, it is necessary to describe the main pond
and the canals that lead from it, into which the wfld ducks are

Fig. 740

x

decoyed and from which they fly and are caught by the oddly
framed nets or by the hawk, as the case may be. A pond of
some size is selected, or artificially made, into which the
ducks are sure to alight. This is surrounded on all sides by
thick groves of bamboo, and no one is allowed to approach
the place except by a narrow path that leads to a little hut
big enough for two only. In this hut are two little openings

FALCONRY 383
from which you get a view of the pond. It was an interesting
sight to catch a glunpse of the placid water closely framed in
the dense bamboo, the sun shining brightly down on the backs
of hundreds of little fat ducks, some swimming about, others
resting on a thin film of ice in shadow, and on a Uttle island
in the middle of the pond a large heron stood on one leg, tran-
qufl in its security. Here and there on the edges of the pond
you could see by the darker shadows where the canals were

into which the ducks were to be decoyed. Figure 740 shows
the pond, the lookout, and the three canals which run from the
pond, and figure 741 shows a section of the canals. These
canals are three feet or more in width and four or five feet deep,
the edges of the canal being raised in a slight embankment
a foot and a half high, then an open space fifteen feet wide,
then a high embankment as shown in section. This high em
bankment has a dense fringe of bamboo. In the canals are kept
tame ducks which do not fly or show any fear of the falcon;
these ducks are frequently fed, so that they will not go
out to the main pond. The wfld ducks, however, come into
the canals, and through a minute hole in the lookout at the
end of the canal one can see whether any wild ducks have
come in.
The fact that the game is there being announced, you pass
along on tiptoe to the open space at the side of the canal.
The hawker approaches the little embankment where the

384 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
wild duck is supposed to be, and another man goes to the end
of the canal near the pond and by waving the hand startles
the wfld duck, which flies up. As the duck appears above the
low embankment the hawker throws the falcon at hun, and
away they go. The falcon invariably overtakes the duck, and
tackling it by the head brings it to the ground, where it rests
with its wings outstretched tfll the hawker comes and takes
up the duck carefully, interlocks the wings behind
its back, and then, by a dexterous thrust of the
thumb, actually takes out the bird's heart. Suck
ing some of the blood, he feeds the hawk with a
smafl bit of the heart so that it wifl be hungry for
the next duck. If there are a number of wfld
ducks in the canal, then other men stand near
the edge, with nets ready to catch the ducks as
Fig. 742 ^^they rise.
It was a stirring sight to see a number of men flourish
ing the long-handled nets as the ducks rose in the air, and
at the same instant the two falcons were thrown, each pur
suing a duck that got beyond and above the nets.
Figure 742 is the form of net used, and figure 743 represents
the attitude of the hawkers. SkiU is required to throw the
falcon properly with a long sweep of the arm, the speed in
creasing as the bird leaves the hand. If the throw is too rapid,
it pushes the bird off his wing, so to speak, just as if one were
to push a boy who was running a race: if the push were too
violent the boy would be thrown off his feet.
The method of catching and training the falcon is inter
esting. The bird is caught by means of a sparrow which is

FALCONRY 385
imprisoned in a long, tubular net, larger in the centre and
kept distended by hoops. This is held to the ground, tied to
pegs at the ends, as shown in figure 744. Transverse to the
tubular net is hung on poles a large net of the finest cord with
wide meshes. This is about six feet in height and eight or ten
feet in width, and is hung in such a way that it is easily
released from the slender bamboo pole above and the split

Fig. 743
bamboo on the ground (fig. 745). To catch the sparrow the
hawker watches for a flight of sparrows over his head, then
with a whistle makes a sound like a falcon; the sparrows take
alarm, unmediately dive to the ground, and with a flourish
of the net the hawker is sure to secure a number. One of these
is imprisoned in the tubular net and used as a bait. A wild
falcon, as he passes over the net, spies the sparrow in the
tubular net and makes a dive for it; the sparrow flies to the
other end of the net, the falcon pursues it, and dashing into

Fig. 744

386 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
the vertical net, is unmediately entangled in it. The hawker
illustrated to me the working of the net by throwing a big ball
of twine at the net,
which instantly became
released from the four
corners and the ball was
enfolded in it. The fal
con having been caught
is kept in a dark room
without food or drink —
literally, ahnost starved
to death, and becomes
so weak and helpless that it can be handled. The hawker
goes into the room with his face covered with a cloth and
holds the falcon on his
hand for an hour, and
then feeds him on a lit
tle sparrow meat. This
he repeats every day for
some time. Finally, he
takes the cloth from his
face when he goes in;
gradually a Uttle light
is let into the room, and
the light is increased
from day to day untfl
the falcon becomes per
fectly docfle, and, knowing his keeper, is able to stand the
full light of day and can be safely held by anybody. He never

Fig. 745

FALCONRY 387
attempts to escape, comes to the keeper, alights on his hand
when he gives the signal, which is given by drumming on a
box, and is altogether a rational and well-behaved bird. This
work is accomplished in from thirty to forty days. One of
the falcons used was a wild bird a little over a month ago.
This ground, fitted for a falconry, had been in use for this
purpose for over two hundred years. Figure 746 shows the

Fig. 746

little shelter and lookout at the head of one of the canals.
The man is pouring seeds into a Uttle funnel and watching
through the hole at the same time. A few wooden decoy
ducks were floating in the water, with the other ducks, but
so perfect was the imitation that it was with the utmost diffi
culty that they could be distinguished.
Foreigners wonder why the Japanese object to their going
about the country banging away at the birds. The banging
of the guns frightens the birds away from the ponds over large

388 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
regions. With hawking and netting as above described the
hunting may go on indefinitely.
It impressed me as a cruel sport, though the ducks are
secured for the table. The quiet, unexcited way in which
everything was done showed how often this diversion was
practiced. We were greatly entertained by this ancient sport, seen for

Fig. 747
the first time, and the Doctor vowed that when he got home
he would estabhsh it.
A kite shop in the height of the season is a curious and novel
sight — a Uttle shop entirely open in front with a quaint sign
in the shape of a large cuttlefish made of framework covered
with cloth, the arms of cloth swinging back and forth in the
breeze, the whole device painted in bright colors. Though
different characters are used in writing it, the word for kite

A KITE SHOP 389
and for cuttlefish is the same; hence the use of a cuttlefish
for a sign.
Figure 747 is a hasty sketch of one of these shops. Inside, hun-

FiG. 748

dreds of kites were piled up in stacks, whfle two or three men
were painting designs in the brightest colors, devfls and mytho
logical subjects, hideous masks, and the Uke. Outside ranged
a group of boys of afl sizes, crowding up to the shop eagerly
to examine the stock. While I was making the sketch over the

390 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
heads of the boys in front, one old man grinned good-naturedly
and another workman noticed me amiably; but none of them
stopped work for a second, as they were too busy with their
small customers. Their living for a whole year was apparently
concentrated into a few weeks of kite-making. The prices
seemed remarkably low, a big kite gaudily decorated in bright

Fig. 749

colors being sold for three and one half cents and smaU ones,
capable of flying, for one half cent. When a boy buys a kite
the shopkeeper fits the string.
Figure 748 is a sketch of a kite nearly three feet in length,
and the dotted lines show where the strings are attached in
front connecting with the main string by which it is held.
The boys send up paper disks on the strings as do the boys
of the United States, We used to call them "messengers";
the Japanese boys caU them "monkeys," A lantern is often
sent up, sometimes two, and at night it is lighted. The
strings running from the kite to the main cord are numerous
and of great length. They seem to run from every point where
the bamboo strips of the frame intersect, from top to bottom,
and as in a large kite the strips run up and down, across and
diagonally, there are many points of intersection (fig. 749).

KITE-FLYING

391

Fig, 750

Our kite-flying is in the most rudimentary stage compared to
the Japanese methods and devices. It is a curious sight to see
a group of boys flying
kites, nearly every one
having a baby tied to
his back (fig. 750).
A common form of kite
in Nagasaki is shown in
figure 751. It is made
with a straight strip of
bamboo, having a hook at
the upper end by which
to hang it up, and a few inches below the top a strip of bam
boo, four feet long, fastened to the upright piece and bent
like a bow; strings, holding down the ends of the bow, are
fastened to the central
piece four feet below.
This forms the frame
work upon which the
paper is fastened, mak
ing a segment of a circle
about one fifth. The
cord is fastened to the
point where the bow is
attached and also to the
bottom of the kite, and
runs out in front six feet or more. A very long bob hangs
below. As a substitute for the hot-water bottie for cold beds the

Fig. 751

392 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
Japanese use the fire-bowl with a few coals, protected by an
ample wooden frame. This is put under the futon, or wadded
comforter, and supplies the proper heat.
Figure 752 is a sketch of Mr. Kohitsu, from whom I am
taking lessons in the tea ceremony. He is quite an expert in
pottery and a very
agreeable man. Fig
ure 753 is a sketch of
Mr. Kohitsu's shoe
closet. 1 Though Mr.
Kohitsu has a smaU
family, there are a
number of shoes or
sandals for each in
mate: low ones, fine
ones for best clothes,
and high ones for
muddy weather, and
some of them, by their
appearance, evidently
worn out. Indeed, one can judge from the appearance of the
clogs left outside of a house the social status of the strangers
he is going to meet within.
As with us at home the Japanese have candy in which is
enclosed a motto of some kind. Figure 754 shows one pinched
up in a triangular form. It was made of molasses and was
brittle, and tasted like a gingersnap without the ginger. The

Fig. 752

* Though this has been given in Japanese Homes, I reproduce it from the original
sketch, as it is one that the Japanese say makes them homesick.

CONFECTIONERY MOTTOES 393
free translation of the motto is as follows: "Determination wfll
go through rocks, why then can we not be united?" Mr. Dan,
who translated this, tells me that the mottoes usually refer
to love or politics; he also informed me that the idea was
old. As a boy I remember sunflar devices at home with
printed love mottoes
folded inside.
The devotion of ser
vants who have been
faithful to the family
was shown New Year's
day by Tatsu, our old
jinrikisha man, coming
to my house with his
Uttle child and bring
ing as a gift a large
basket of oranges; and
the next day Kichi, our
old cook, brought me a
box of yokan (made of
sugar and beans) and
wished me a happy New Year. Both of them inquired after
the family and remembered the names of Edith and John.
The cook told me he had a good place in a Japanese res
taurant. Figure 755 is an ingenious device called the hikisawa, made
of brass or silver, used by Japanese draftsmen to rule straight
Unes with a brush, as they have no drafting-pen. The brush
is placed in a groove. A, reaching down to the end, B, which

Fig. 753

394 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
rests against the ruler; the upper part, C, is flattened; and
with this they rule preliminary lines, and most deUcate lines
can be made.
Yesterday (January 11) I was invited to lecture at the
opening of Mr. Okuma's school. My subject was Evolution,
or Darwinism, and Mr. Ishikawa, one
of my old special students, inter
preted for me. After the lecture we
were invited to Mr. Okuma's summer
-i-t-h4:$ house just back of the school — a house
with beautiful rooms, built twenty
years ago strictly in Japanese style.
The rooms were very large and high-
FiG. 754 studded, and the tokonoma was pro
portionately deep, I have noticed in
large halls that the tokonoma is of great depth, and the
kakemono and the vases or ornaments are of proportionate
size. It may be interesting to mention that the seat of honor
is in front of the tokonoma. Mr. Okuma had engaged a fa
mous blind biwa player (fig. 756). The music was entirely un
like that made by other instruments; certain notes are quite
plaintive and touching.

<c

The bridges of the biwa ^ n^  ' j^_^
are very high and the FigTtss ^^
strings are pressed down
between the bridges, and with varying degrees of pressure
curious wavering notes are produced. Remarkable modula
tions are thus made, and Japanese of refinement are often
affected to tears by the exceedingly sweet and caressing notes

A BLIND BIWA PLAYER 395
the instrument emits in the hands of a master. The plectrum
is certainly a foot wide across the flat edge. After he had
played awhile a glass was brought in containing a number of
green leaves. Takmg one of these leaves the player held it with
two fmgers against his lower lip (fig. 757), and blowing over
it in some way made remarkably clear notes, high and low,
by pressing more or less
with the fingers. I tried
in vain to make the sound
and managed after a whfle
to evoke a squeak.
After this entertain
ment we were invited into
another room where Jap
anese food was served,
and though I have tasted
many delicious foods in
Japan I never tasted such
excellent soups as we had.
One, containing slices of
wild boar, was particularly good. Raw fish in vinegar was
fine. I had to hurry away at six-thirty to meet another
engagement. To-day (January 12) I gave another lecture at the Univer
sity on the reptilian affinities of birds. It was strongly Dar
winian and the students seemed to enjoy it.
Lately I have found a bowl with the mark of Fuji, which
proves a great puzzle to the Japanese experts. Kohitsu called
it Ninsei, Kiyomizu, two hundred years old, but he had never

Fig. 756

396 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
seen the stamp before; Kashiwagi identified it as old Akahata,
Yamato; Ando said it was Hagi, Yamato; Masuda recognized
it as old Satsmna; Maida thought it might be Naniwa, Settsu;
and another expert, whose name I do not recall, pronounced it
Shino, Owari. I give this as an illustration of the divergence
of opinion among the Japanese connoisseurs, and to show the
dififlculties in the work of identification of puzz
ling pieces.
Bigelow, FenoUosa, and I were invited to dine
at the house of Prince Kuroda, who was form
erly Daimyo of Chikuzen and is a brother of
a famous Satsuma prince. He is very fond of
animals, especially birds. He told me that after
he had heard my lecture on ants some years ago
he had observed their habits. The Prince is
p, ___ nearly seventy years old and slightly infum, but
is full of interest in scientific subjects. He lives
in a foreign-built house with large, pleasant rooms and open
fireplaces. We spent three hours looking over his collection
of Takatori pottery and kakemono.
January 16 the Doctor and I were invited to dinner at Mr.
Okuma's in his city house, which is near the University. The
house is in foreign style and very beautiful; Dr. Bigelow pro
nounced it perfect in its appointments. The dining-room had
a beautiful wood floor, and over the doors and windows were
elaborate wood carvings. The garden is in pure Japanese
style, with the exception of a circular plat of grass, which is
certainly not Japanese. Japanese food was served on trays
with chopsticks on a table at which we sat in chairs.

PICTURESQUE GATEWAYS 397
The gateways of the Japanese are nearly always pictur
esque, though many of them are frail in appearance. It is
rare, however, to see one in ruins or in disrepair. They are
never painted, and are made of light, thin strips, though the
upright posts are thick and enduring. Quaint old planks of
wood, with curious twisted branches,
form a framework for the most deli
cate panel-work of braided lattice, or
beautiful designs cut in stencil. Some
times a bamboo is cut longitudinally to
form the centre of some panel. It is
these contrasts between the strong and
light, rough and deUcate, that add a
charm to these structures. Rustic ef
fects are seen in the city in fences,
weUs, and the like.
I visited an old chajin and pottery
sharp named Nishikawa Rokubei, who
thinks that "floral decorated Satsuma"
is three hundred years old. He repu
diates Ninagawa, Kohitsu, and everybody else, and looked
like figure 758 when I told him that aU the evidences were
against him,
I had made an appointment with Mr, Nishikawa to see his
pottery, but when I got to the house he said he had only a few
objects to show me, as the godown had been sealed up owing
to the high wind, and he had not dared to open it. From a
cupboard, however, he dragged a large basket-like box from
which he took a few specunens of pottery. The box had bands

398 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
arranged upon it so that a man might carry it on his back
(fig. 759).
For the last few days the wind has blown a furious gale,
and everywhere on the street are seen preparations in an
ticipation of a large conflagration. Few goods are displayed;
godowns are partiafly sealed with mud, men mixing the
mud in the hole in front of the
shop, or in a large jar on a pro
jecting shelf below the second-
story window for ready seal
ing. What with the terrible
conflagrations and chances of
destructive earthquakes, it is
no wonder that dwelling-house
architecture has hardly de
veloped. It is useless to build
more than temporary shelters.
In an old book which I have
is given the genealogy of the Kohitsu family. For fourteen
generations they have been chajins and experts in pottery,
and have been recognized as authorities in the identification
of old pottery, writings, and kakemono.
Yesterday morning, about four o'clock, I was awakened by
a sudden and severe shock of earthquake. My floor is within
two feet of the ground, yet the shock was so, violent that the
pottery on the shelves rattled at a great rate. It really seemed
as if the house must faU, but before I could coUect my wits it
was aU over. Dr. Bigelow is in a hotel, in the second story, and
he thought the house would surely come down.

Fig. 759

A POTTERY PARTY 399
January 18, The wind is still blowing a gale, yet boys and
men are flying kites, I saw two men hanging on to a kite rope,
the kite being over six feet square. The kites are certainly
much stronger than ours or they could not stand such severe
gales. The Japanese play with kites more than we do, and
many men are seen flying them.
The other night I was invited to an interesting gathering.
Mr, Tanimura, a teacher of cha-no-yu, has a meeting every
month of men who are interested in old Japanese pottery.
It is a guessing party, and each one brings a specimen of pot
tery dififlcult to identify. These are numbered and recorded
in a Ust by one who does not take part in the guessing contest.
The method is rather curious. The party sit around in a circle
with candles in the middle, and each one has a lacquer cup
with his name written on the bottom, A specimen of pottery,
such as a tea-jar, bowl, or incense-box, is passed around, each
in turn examines it, and then with a brush and India ink
records his guess on the inside of the lacquer cup and places it
face downward on the mat. When every one of the party has
marked his guess, or opinion, the host records each name and
opinion in a book. In this way we examined a number of old
tea-jars, tea-bowls, and the like. It may be interesting to
record that I got the highest number of correct attributions,
and it was also gratifying to know that I was not alone when
in error, A tea-jar that I caUed Takatori was said to be Zeze
by the judge, for that was the name written on the box from
which it was taken: an unsafe evidence, for the original piece
in the box may have been broken or lost and another jar sub
stituted that would fit the box — a very common practice. The

400 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
two potteries closely resemble one another, however. Another
piece said to be Koda, I am sure was not, as I am pretty sound
on that pottery. It was interesting to meet such a pleasant
party. One was a student, another a doctor, a third was an
editor of a daily paper, another was a gentleman of leisure, and
the host was a pottery expert. They all expressed their amaze
ment at the quickness of my decisions, as I always put my
lacquer cup down first. The others would look at the piece in

Fig. 760

turn, expressing their emotions in curious sounds, saying it
was odd or troublesome, and grunt over it, and at the very last
moment write their decisions. Figure 760 is a hasty sketch
of the party.
Takamine told me a good stoiy of a famous judge, Itakura,
of the time of the first shogun, who used to sit behind a screen
when he heard evidence and grind tea at the same time. The
stone miU is quite heavy, and to grind the tea properly the
mill must rotate slowly. He sat behind the screen so as not to
see the witness's face; otherwise he might be prejudiced; and

A LESSON IN JAPANESE SINGING 401
he had to repress his emotions, otherwise he would grind the
tea rapidly and thus ruin the powdered tea.
I took my first lesson in Japanese singing this afternoon.
With a letter of introduction, I, or rather my jinrikisha man,
found the way to Mr. Umewaka, who lived at Asakusa Minami
moto machi Kubanchi. He is a famous teacher of no singing
and acting, and has adjoining his house a stage for no play.
Takenaka accompanied me as interpreter. We were presented,
and Mr. Umewaka was very hospitable and seemed pleased
that a foreigner should wish to take lessons in singing. Take
naka explained that I had many things to do and must begin
at once. Mr. Umewaka brought me a singing-book and read
slowly the words I was to learn, and I wrote them down as
weU as I could. I had to sit down with legs bent directly under
me in Japanese fashion. This method of sitting is intolerable
to a foreigner at the outset, but I am now able to sit an hour
and a half without discomfort. He placed in front of me a
little music-stand and gave me a fan which I held resting on
my leg. He sang a Une and I sang it after him; then he sang
another; and so on through the eleven lines of the piece. After
trying it twice in that way we sang together. I realized how
very rich and sonorous his voice was. Then I observed that,
do what I would, my notes sounded flat and monotonous
. whfle his were full of inflections and accents, though all on one
note. I felt awkward and embarrassed at the absurd failure I
was making and perspired freely, though it was a cold day
in January. Finally, in desperation, I threw off afl reserve
and entered into it with afl my might, resolved, at any rate,
to mimic his sounds. I inflated my abdomen tensely, sang

402 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
through my nose, put the tremulo stop on when necessary, and
attracted a number of attendants who peeked through the
screens to look on, in despair, no doubt, at a foreigner dese
crating the honored precincts by such infernal howls. Be that
as it may, my teacher for the first time bowed approvingly at
my efforts, complimented me when I got through my first
lesson, and told me, probably in encouragement, that I would
in a month's time be able to sing in no play. Figure 761 shows
the attitude of the teacher and pupil. It is by taking actual
lessons in the tea ceremony
and in singing that I may
learn many things from the
Japanese standpoint. The
method in singing is to de
press the diaphragm, mak
ing the walls of the abdomen
as tense as a drum, this
acting as a resonator. The

Fig. 761

strain on the voice is so
great that a singer wiU of

ten cough in the midst of the singing.
I was interested the other day in observing the behavior of
two chfldren to whom I showed some prints. They began to
count the number of objects when they were in sequences, as
children do at home. Indeed, the more I see of chfldren here
the more resemblances I find to our chfldren. In their games
there are some striking differences, and yet many of the games
are alike. Such as the bounding of a baU on the ground by
patting it with the hand, and the jackstones played with little

FUJI SNOW-COVERED 403
bags filled with peas and beans instead of stones. There is no
hoop or skipping-rope; indeed, in the latter game they would
shake down their nicely arranged hair. The children clasp
their hands together and pound them on their knees making a
pecuUar sound which they caU "money"; our chfldren do the
same thing. They also have the play of seeing who can stare
the longest without smiling. Takamine told me that when
the children eat an orange they play with it by making a shal
low cup with a segment of the rind, and then, nipping off the
end of the segment, squeeze a few drops of juice into the cup,
thus pretending to drink sake. The chfldren have many ways
of utflizing such objects for toys.
In Japanese personal names there are many like Kichizae
mon, Hachizaemon, the termination zaemon and uyemon be
ing quite common, at least among the potters whose names I
am collecting. These names mean, respectively, "left guard
gate" and "right guard gate." Bei, as in Rokubei, means
" soldier guard." Many of their names indicate a soldier origin
of the family.
Fuji has put on some magnificent appearances lately. It has
been very cold for some time, with high winds, Fuji is covered
to the base with snow, and for the last two nights the sun in
sinking behind the mountain has illuminated the snow which
has been whirled up in clouds from the sides. The appearance
of the dark gray mountain in shadow, outlined with the most
brilhant golden border and a rich rose halo, has been a sight of
remarkable beauty. Fuji is about forty miles in a straight line
from Tokyo, and I have a wonderful view of it every day as
I ride to the University, and every day it is beautiful in the

404 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
changing lights, shadows, snow effects, etc. In figure 762 the
upper drawing shows the mountain with the snow illumined
by the setting sun ; in the lower drawing it is shown as illu
mined by the rising sun, with shadows of clouds. The other

Fig. 762
morning Fuji was in deep shadow from clouds with the excep
tion of irregular areas which were dazzling white.
I went through the cemetery at Uyeno to-day and inquired
for Matsura's grave and found it (ffg. 763), I was curious to
see how the cutting of the epitaph I wrote had been done. It
was finely engraved in capital letters, the gravestone a dark
slate. The Japanese epitaph, written by one of the students,
is thoughtful and significant,'
"His family name Matsura and given name Sayohiko. His
native province Tosa, Early entering college he devoted him
self to study of biology. By diligent labor he made consider
able progress. On 5th day, 7th month, of Meiji 9th, aged 22,
died of fever. His nature was actively keen; he treated men
1 In my course of lectures in the LoweU Institute I read this epitaph, and that
dear man, WiUiam James, expressed great interest in it and asked for a copy.

MATSURA'S EPITAPH 405
altogether without discrimination; hence he was lovingly
sought by aU. His friends subscribed to erect this monument
and this is written for the inscription: —
" The cherished hope is not yet fulfilled.
As the faded flower he fell,
Alas, the law of Nature!
Is it right, or is it wrong?
" Inscription by Shogoi Kusakabe Tosaku. Erected by those
of Tokyo Daigaku interested, 8th day of 7th month, 12th
year of Meiji."
For the last week I have been hard at work translating, with
an assistant, a number of manuscript volumes of Ninagawa
relating to pottery, which the family
wifl not sefl, though they are of no /\^\
possfl)le use to them. In them I find a iy,...\
great deal of information and enough /./ ^i^-^ \
to show me what an untiring student || \\\\\\ (
of pottery he was. _ ^ -f^.
Dimples in higher class ladies are ^^^^t»^^^^^t
not considered pretty because they fig. 763
accompany laughter, and laughter is
undignified; among servants, however, dimples and a fat,
robust figure are regarded favorably.
On February 2, 1883, there was the biggest snow-storm
for many years; the snow was nearly a foot deep on a level.
It required two men to drag me to the University, The chil
dren went off to school barefooted on their clogs, carrying
their stockings in their sleeves so as to have something dry

406 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
to put on in school. It is curious to see the jinrikisha men and
other laborers barefooted and barelegged in the snow and
slush. Directly after the first snowfafl came another, ac
companied by a high wind. The snow drifted in great pfles,
and even in Maine the storm would have been considered a
"rouser"; for two days the streets were impassable. This
storm was followed by cold weather, so after several days the
snow remains in great drifts.
It is interesting to see how the art tastes of the people are
manifested in the figures they make in the snow, A very com
mon figure is that of Daruma, a follower of Buddha, often
pictured and made in metal, pottery, or carved in ivory; a
great many bridges and arches are made and lanterns placed
in some. In one case I saw a miniature garden with path
ways, summer-houses, stone lanterns, and the like. Masses
are wrought in the form of large balls of mochi, one on
top of another and diminishing in size. A very common pic
ture shows two large pinnacles of rock with straw ropes and
pendent straws hanging from one peak to the other; this was
beautifully rendered in snow. Also the sun rising out of the
waves, — the waves gracefully carved and the sun made by
pressing snow in a shaUow tub, making a disk like a big cheese.
These and many other designs arrested one's attention in rid
ing through the streets. People are walking about, most of
them, particularly women and children, carrying bamboo
canes to support themselves. The people seem perfectly help
less in the presence of such a depth of snow, and there seems to
be no effort on the part of the city authorities to remove it.
I have already taken several lessons in singing, and although

JAPANESE MUSIC 407
I have a fairly quick ear, I have not been able to carry away
two consecutive notes, or to recaU any notes. It has been
very interesting to see how different their music is from ours.
Their manuscript music has no notation, no indication of any
thing but inflections indicated by short lines, level, or slanting
upward or downward, or with undulations up or down. My
teaching is entirely by rote, the teacher first giving the line and
I singing after him, I noticed almost immediately that he
varied slightly each time. Sometimes certain notes are made
sharp and again the same notes are flattened. In my mind
Utai is not singing, but inflectional declamation, not un
like the conversation of the countrymen of Yorkshire, Many
years ago Dr, Phflip P, Carpenter, brother of the famous
physiologist, actually rendered into musical notation conver
sations he had heard among the farm people of Yorkshire, He
sang me one which I have always remembered. The music I
am studying is written with short dashes pointing downward,
or upward, or level. My teacher at the outset had told me
that I must keep my abdomen distended, — a constant strain,
— with the result that my voice would be sonorous; it was a
difficult accomplishment to acquire. The various forms or
schools of Japanese music, whether vocal or instrumental, are
listened to by a foreigner, first with bewilderment, and then
greeted with laughter. It was a humiliating experience to at
tend a Japanese entertainment in which classical music was
sung, music that would bring tears to the Japanese eyes, and
have it greeted by the Englishmen in the audience with con
temptuous laughter. You hear quaint music in the East, music
that excites your interest, music that prompts your feet to beat

408 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
time, but Japanese music is simply unintelligible to a foreigner.
As their pictorial art was incomprehensible to us at the outset,
and yet on further acquaintance and study we discovered in
it transcendent merit, so it seemed to me that a study of
Japanese music might reveal merits we little suspected. For
that reason I studied Utai, a school of Japanese music, taking
my lessons of the famous teacher Umewaka, Professor Ya
tabe, a graduate of CorneU, whfle thoroughly approving the
adoption of many features from abroad and admitting their
superiority, nevertheless insisted that the Japanese music was
superior to ours.
Figure 764 is a hasty sketch of a sword-maker in Tokyo, I
find no memorandum in regard to it and at this late date can
recall nothing. The hammers of the helpers are very odd,
I have already alluded to the love of collecting among the
Japanese and have briefly mentioned some of the objects they
collect. Since that record I have seen many other collections,
and they comprise pottery, porcelain, cloth, swords and sword
detafls that are found on the handle and scabbard, autographs,
coins, stone implements and beads, brocade, pieces of which
are stuck into books as are stamps in stamp collecting, pic
tures, drawings, books, ancient manuscripts, old furniture,
such as cabinets and priests' desks, sticks of ink and ink-
stones, roofing tiles, lacquer, and metal ornaments. Very few
collect natural objects, though I have met some coUectors of
insects, shells, and plants.
In examining Japanese hand-work of any kind the foreigner
is immediately impressed by the fact that all surfaces of the
object are equally weU finished. Whether it be a bronze fig-

FIDELITY IN WORKMANSHIP

409

Fig, 764

ure, lacquer box, inro, or netsuke, the base is finished as care-
fuUy and accurately as the exposed surfaces. One is amazed
to fmd the ventral portion of a carved insect, or the base of a
sculptured anunal, finished with anatomical accuracy, A good
illustration of this fideUty in work is often seen when some

410 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
family is moving its household furniture, not much, to be sure;
yet, when the bureaus, low desks, lacquer cabinets, lacquer
boxes, etc, are pfled together on a cart, one notices the con
trast with similar furniture vans at home. Even from the
house of the rich the load appears fairly squalid, while the
Japanese load from the house of the poor suggests anything
but squalor.
The Japanese chfldren, and for that matter the nation, have
no such thing as a lead pencil or chalk, crayon, writing-pen,
or fluid ink, except what they make themselves by rubbing a
hard piece of India ink with water in some receptacle, usually
an ink-stone. A writing-box of wood or lacquer contains an
ink-stone with shallow spaces on each side for brushes with
which they write, a paper-knife, stick of India ink, and a lit
tle vessel, holding water, with two minute openings, one of
which you cover with your finger, thus checking the flow of
water from the other opening. Unless the ink is already pre
pared, one has to allow a few drops of water to fall on the
stone, and then the ink is rubbed untfl the result is sufficiently
black. Then only can one write a letter, which is done 6n a
roU, — vertically, of course, — and as line after Une is written the
paper is unwound till five or six feet may be unrolled according
to the length of the letter. It is then torn off, wound up again,
flattened by smoothing with the hand, and slid into a long,
narrow envelope which has lately come into use. If one is in a
rage and is inclined to dash off an angry letter, he has suflfl-
cient tune to cool off in getting ready to write it,
A device known as yatate (fig, 765) takes the place of our
fountain pen. It is usually made of metal and consists of a

WRITING AND MARKING DEVICES 411
tube to hold the writing-brush, and attached to the top, at
right angles, is a receptacle for a wad of cotton saturated with
fluid ink. The writer can get ink enough on his brush to write a
few characters. The artistic work seen on these devices almost
equals the work seen on the sword-guards and other metal fur
nishings of the sword. The designs are infinite. The yatate is
thrust into the obi, the ink-holding portion preventing it from
sUding through. The carpenter has a device, carved
out of wood, consisting of a receptacle holding ink-
saturated cotton, and a wheel on which a cord is
wound, the cord passing through the cotton as it
is wound and unwound. The cord has an awl at
tached to it, and the carpenter makes an ink line
on the board by pulUng the string out and with
the awl fastening it to the board and then snapping
it, as our carpenter does his chalk-line. The device
should be adopted by our carpenters, as it makes
a sharp, black, durable line.
Mention has already been made of the boy's sub
stitute for a slate. The child begins the practice of
writing Chinese characters, using a large brush for
the purpose. A book of paper sheets, usually six by nine,
though often larger, is a substitute for the slate. The char
acters are drawn of large size on these sheets and are drawn
over and over again. Only one side of the paper was used in
the book here figured, consisting of thirty-two leaves. The
freshly written character shows plainly on the dried ink-
markings of the day before. Figure 766 gives the appearance
of these books.

Fig. 765

Fig. 766

412 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
On visiting famous temples the priests present you with
paper slips, and sometunes thin wooden tablets, upon which
the name of the temple and other char
acters are written. These tokens are
fastened to the side of the house en
trance to ward off contagious diseases
and evfl influences. Figure 767 repre
sents one of these tokens from the tem
ple of Nantaizan, It is five inches
long. In Tokyo, and presumably in the
larger cities, a little wooden tag is
worn under the clothes of the child,
on which are inscribed the name of the chfld and the house
and district in which the chfld lives. The police
man simply reaches down the neck of a lost
child, pulls out the tag, and promptly returns
the child to its anxious mother. Figure 768 rep
resents the tag worn by Dr, Takenaka when a
boy. One of the many features that attract the eye
of the foreigner are the hair ornaments of the
women and especially of the little girls. With
scarcely an exception the hair is formally ar
ranged, usually in a broad knot, or some other
shape, behind. At the junction of this knot with
the head, red crape is tied, and at this place
ornamental hairpins are thrust. These are called
kanzashi. Here one sees the ingenious way in which, with

Fig. 767

Fig. 768

HAIR ORNAMENTS 413
the sunplest materials — cloth, gold paper, delicate spiral
springs, straw, spangles, red coral, etc., — a great variety of
objects are made. Quite half the designs
represent flowers, I do not remember ever
seeing a natural flower worn in the hair nor
on the person. Many of them represent a
story or act of some kind; a child painting
a kakemono (fig. 769), a bird-cage (fig. 770),
a bird in bamboo (fig. 771). Elaborate as
some of them are, the cost is trifling — a
cent or two. Hardly a visit is made without
a present of some kind being offered, and these kanzashi are
favorite objects for that purpose.
In Buddhistic families one often hears a blessing asked by
the host. At a private dinner each one declines the seat of
honor and some time elapses before
the guests are seated. It is not con
sidered polite to accept articles of food
when offered the first time, but only
when passed the second time. In our country the unin
formed Japanese student often suffers in consequence of this
form of good manners. They depreciate their children and
themselves, their homes, houses, and
possessions; a feature due to Chinese
cult. Hokusai of ten signed his pictures ^
with characters meaning "a stupid
pen." Prince Nabeshima invited me to dinner, and as Mrs, Sam
uel Bright was visiting us she was also invited with Mrs.

Fig, 769

Fig, 770

414 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
Morse. There were twenty or more at the table, and Mrs.
Bright was curious to know the religious belief of the gentle
men present. It was a somewhat embarrassing inquiry. I had
explained to her before that the cultivated Japanese had out
grown whatever belief in Buddhism or Shinto they may have
had. The question was skillfully presented by Prince Nabe
shima, and without exception every one, though with many
smiles, confessed his freedom from religious belief.
With the exception of a certain region in Tokyo, known as
the Ginza, the sidewalk is unknown. The Ginza for a certain
distance had been buflt in for
eign style, with two-story brick
blocks, a brick sidewalk, and a
curb. Elsewhere in the city the
carriageway extends from one
Fig. 771 side of the street to the other,
and is slightly rounded in the
centre, and fairly hard and smooth. The people throng into
the middle of the road. One never sees people keeping step in
walking, neither men, women, nor children. Sometimes two
men will hold hands, or one will have an arm flung over his
companion's shoulder. The absence of rhythm in their walk
is noteworthy, as with our people even school-children keep
step in walking. One realizes at once that the Japanese never
dance together as we do. The waltz, the polka, and other old-
fashioned dances requiring absolute rhythm in their move
ments, and the school driU of marching out of school to the
music of a piano, all contribute to the marching habit,
Mr, Ninagawa, the antiquarian, who has been mentioned

CALLS FROM ANTIQUARIANS 415
elsewhere in these pages, and who died m 1882, frequently
caUed on me, Mr, Kohitsu, another antiquarian, was an occa
sional caUer, The front door of the little house I occupied
opened into my only room, which functioned as a library,
workroom, and bedroom as well. In caUing upon me in winter
these men would knock on the door, which I would promptly
open for them. They would show no signs of recognition of
my presence untU they had removed their hats, which they
would place on the step ; then, untying the handkerchief about
the neck, folding it, and placing it in the hat, they would make
a few profound bows, which I would return, and then they
would enter the house. These men never caUed on me to
gether; whether their relations were strained I never learned,
I was amazed that the various experts that I met in Japan
seemed always unfamiliar with one another's work. Nina
gawa pubhshed an interesting work on Japanese pottery, with
remarkable fllustrations in lithography, yet the various ex
perts in pottery that I have thus far met seemed utterly igno
rant of its existence.
An indication of the rational character of the Japanese is
seen in the numbers that are abandoning the queue. The stu
dents were the first to do so. In the country one sees every
body wearing the queue; also in the city am6ng the lower
classes. Old scholars, too, still adhere to the custom, Nina
gawa not only always wore the queue, but his outer garment
was slit as if he still carried the two swords, Mr, Kohitsu, a
teacher of the tea ceremonies and a pottery expert, while
retaining the Japanese dress, told me that he gave up the
queue a few years ago. Old men with very little hair still

416 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
manage to gather the few hairs on the back of the head, wax
them, and construct a queue the size of a toothpick. On one
occasion, in a crowd, I had before me a bald head with
a queue of this description, I noticed that the queue was
black, so it must have been dyed or stained with ink, A closer
examination revealed the fact that a black line had been
painted vertically on the scalp in line with the queue, thus
making the queue appear an inch longer, A mischievous boy
might have been tempted to swing the genuine queue gently
to one side !
The Japanese have an interesting way of waking a sleeper.
Instead of loudly speaking, or roughly shaking him, the per
son begins to tap his shoulder in the most quiet manner,
slowly increasing the force of the taps until they become
vigorous slaps; the sleeper finally wakes without the slightest
shock and with wits fully established. Hospital nurses and
others should adopt this method,
A marked characteristic of the Japanese is their love for
nature. They not only enjoy nature in all its aspects, but they
enjoy it with an artist's eye. So dominant is this trait that the
city directory of Tokyo devotes a few pages to pointing out
places in the parks and suburbs where nature in its finest
aspects is to be found. The following is a translation of these
pages copied from the "Tokyo Times": —
For snow effects: the banks of the Sumida River, Koishikawa,
Kudan, Uyeno, and Atagoyama, during the later winter.
For plum blossoms: Mukojima, Asakusa, Kameido, latter part of
February. For cherry blossoms: the banks of the Sumida River, Oji, Uyeno,
Higurashi, Koganei, from the middle of April,

NATURE IN THE CITY DIRECTORY 417
For peach blossoms: Osawa village, from the middle of April.
For pear blossoms: Namamugi village, during the latter part of April.
For Yamabuki {Kenia japonica): Mukojima and Omori, in April.
For peony: Garden of Somei, Terajima, Meguro, in mid May.
For fleur-de-lis: Horikiri, in May.
For fuji (wistaria) : Kameido, Meguro, Noda, latter part of May.
For morning-glory: gardens of Somei and Iriya, from the middle of
July. For lotus: Mokuboji, Uyeno, Tameike, Mukojima, from the latter
part of July.
For the seven flowers of autumn: Terajima, from latter part of
August. For Hagi: Buddhist temple of Rengeji at Terajima, and at Kameido,
from the latter part of August.
For chrysanthemums: Meguro, Asakusa, Garden of Somei, Sugamo,
in November.
For maple leaves: Konodai, Oji, Tokaiji, Kaianji, in November.

We are also informed in this connection that for firefly
hunting we must resort to the paddy-fields in Asakusa, Oji,
Koishikawa, along the Sumida River and elsewhere in the
early summer. Oji and Meguro are mentioned as furnishing
excellent waterfall fishing in the same season. Various places
are also named where one can catch "sweet singing insects."
In addition to what appears in connection with the "Hints,"
we are reminded of the garden of Dangozaka, celebrated for
chrysanthemums; Tabata, for plum blossoms ;Nezu and Higu
rashi, for cherry blossoms, maples, and kirishima; Aoyama,
Asakusa, for its waterfall and pine trees; Tsunokami, Yotsuya,
for afl sorts of flowers; Shinfuji, Shibuya, for pretty grasses;
Susaki Benten, for fishing at low tide, and Takinogawa for its
waterfall and maples.
The loyalty of the people to residents of their own province
is noteworthy. They provide lodging and food, if able to do

11

Fig, 772

u

418 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
so, to any one coming from their own province, whether rela
tion, friend, or total stranger, A Japanese friend of mine told
me that he had entertained in this way six young men whom
he had never met and had kept
them a number of days.
The main supply of animal
food is derived from the ocean.
Nearly every creature living in
the sea is used as food by the
Japanese, The vertebrate fish forms the larger proportion of
food, though nearly every species of mollusk of sufficient size
may be found in the market as weU as the cuttlefish; eggs of
the sea urchin; a worm-like Sabella, the brachiopod Lingula;
Cynthia, an ascidian; and a number of seaweeds. Of the ver
tebrate fish many more species are eaten than with us. Not
that we do not have as many species, or nearly as many
on our coast, but our taste seems to be confined to a few
kinds, I remember as a
boy flounders were never
eaten. Formerly on the
coast of Maine the had
dock was not considered
a food fish. Nearly afl
fish caught by the Japanese is brought to the market and
is sorted and sold. Thousands of fishermen in their little
boats and men and boys on the rocks are catching aU kinds
of fish. With us only those fish that can be caught or netted
in great numbers are thought worth whUe to bring to the
market; hence the food fishes are limited to a few kinds, the

Fig. 773

FISH AND FISHING 419
principal ones in New England being the cod, haddock, mack
erel, and halibut. We are extremely limited in our taste for
moUusks, the clam, quahog, oyster, and scaUop, and, rarely,
the mussel, forming the usual supply. The periwinkle,
an imported species, may be found in the market
for the Italian population. It is commonly eaten in
England, and is sweet and nutritious. As in many
other matters each province in Japan has its special
type of fishhooks. Figure 772 represents the cod
hook in the provinces of Echizen, Echigo, and Ugo,
The eel hook, which is tied to the end of a long pole, fig. 774
an ordinary fish knife, and a hand hook for sorting
fish are shown in figure 773. In Iwashiro the fishermen use
a hook for catching bonito, a kind of mackerel. The stem is
a mass of lead, in the side an oblong strip of pearl is intro
duced; and at the end, surrounding the hook, are strips of
stiff paper (fig. 774). For trolling, a wooden fish is used, with
a metal keel to keep it upright and a double row of hooks in
the tafl. The model is browned over hot coals and darker
spots are burned on the sides
(fig. 775),
The bric-a-brac dealers in
Pjq 775 Japan, as in all other parts of
the world, are not famous for
their rectitude. When one recalls the frauds he may have
purchased in Europe or America in the way of old furni
ture, ofl paintings, especially "old masters," Egyptian relics,
etc, he will not judge too harshly the Japanese dealers in
"old Satsuma" (often warm from the furnace), old kake-

420 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
mono, and the like. With aU this knavery one cannot but
admire the ingenuity of some of these cheats. As an exam
ple, a dealer will find some old house with a quaint garden
in the suburbs of Yokohama or Tokyo. If he can induce
the occupant to move out for a few weeks, "bag and bag
gage," he wfll fill it up in an appropriate way with kake
mono, bronzes, folding screens, lacquer boxes, and the like.
If he can persuade the owner — provided he is a dignified old
gentleman — to play the part of a decayed daimyo, who by
an unfortunate turn of affairs has become poor and is com
pelled to sell his art treasures, the trap with its bait is com
plete, A foreigner just landed and wild for choice examples
of Japanese art, is incidentally told by some dealer that he
knows of a retired daimyo, within a few miles of the city,
who is compelled by stress of circumstances to part with his
household belongings, and a rare chance is offered to secure
heirlooms of great merit and antiquity — such an opportun
ity as occurs but once in a lifetime, Jinrikishas are engaged,
and after a long and delightful ride he arrives at the modest
house of the supposed daimyo. The dealer goes ahead and
announces his coming. He is then formally presented to the
venerable old man, who with exquisite politeness offers tea
and cake and possibly a little sake. He is abashed by the im
pertinence of his intrusion, and while preliminary skirmish
ing goes on through an interpreter his eyes greedily roam
about the room selecting the objects he is bound to possess,
at the same time hypnotized by the dealer and beguiled by
the refined and deprecating manner of the dear old man. He
is ashamed to modify the prices modestly mentioned for this.

THE BRIC-A-BRAC DEALERS 421
that, and the other object. With a feeling of exalted triumph
he rides back to the hotel with jinrikisha loaded with pur
chases, sure that this time at least he has secured rare old
treasures, to find out that the stuff is all fraudulent and that
he has been most egregiously swindled. The trouble taken by
these dealers and the ingenuity they display are manifested
in other ways. If you are in the Government employ, or a
teacher in the University, and have a regular route of travel
to and from your duties, an object you have admired and bar
tered for in some remote part of the city, and which you have
refused to buy on account of its price, is placed in the hands
of a dealer whose shop is on a street through which you daily
pass. The price is lower, and the chances are that you secure
it. With suspicions that it is the same object that you had
refused to buy in another part of the town, you immediately
visit the remote dealer to find that the piece you wanted has
been sold. If, furthermore, you refuse to buy the object and
again visit the remote dealer, you find the object in his pos
session with a still lower price. I have had this experience
several times.
An old dealer by the name of Gonza, who had helped me
greatly in Nagoya by guiding me to various dealers of bric-a-
brac in that large city, and who seemed above suspicion,
attempted to swindle me afterwards in a manner that, had I
not been familiar with Japanese pottery, would have resulted
in my being woefully cheated, I had copied very carefully from
an ancient manuscript certain incised marks of some of the
early potters of Seto, These copies were sent to Gonza with the
request that he would hunt up pieces bearing these signatures

422 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
and the highest prices would be paid for them. After the lapse
of a few months a box came to me from Nagoya, with a letter
from Gonza giving a history of these old potters, and samples

Fig. 776
of their work in the shape of tea-jars, bowls, and other objects
in pottery, with marks on the pottery apparently the same
as the copies I had sent him. I was sufficiently familiar with
Japanese pottery to see at a glance that the pottery, instead
of being three or four hundred years old was not over thirty
or forty. With soap and water and a brush the first applica-

DETECTING A FRAUD 423
tion brought out the dirt that had been rubbed in, leaving
the incised marks clear and bright. An ordinary lens showed
that the marks had been scratched in the hard-baked object,
whereas genuine incised marks are done in the clay before it is
baked and show raised clay at the ends of the Unes. I imme
diately wrote to him a fierce letter, stating that all the marks
were fraudulent, and that I should show him up as a swindler
in my contemplated work on Japanese pottery. In the course
of a few weeks I got a letter, with a water-color drawing on
silk, from Gonza (fig, 776), The following is a rough transla
tion of his letter by Mr, Takenaka: —
Morse Sensei —
Dear Sir, — Sometime ago on account of my unexercised
eyes I made a mistake in criticizing potteries, I am very
much ashamed. To ask your forgiveness again for my fault I
send you now a note of the acknowledgment of my error. In
the picture the gentleman sitting in the chair and inspecting
pottery is Morse Sensei, another is Mr, Takenaka, the 'Other
is Mr, Kimura, The man who kneels down at the front of
them and who is imploring pardon is Gonza, At last I pray
you to be kind to me in publishing your book on pottery,
I regret very much that I acted wrong against you whenever
I think of the book you are going to publish,
I remain, dear Sir, your obedient servant, GONZA.
The poem in the picture reads as follows: "In the world al
most everything is so. You cannot see from the outside the
astringency of some persimmons."

424 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
When I returned home from Japan I crossed to China, and
after a short stay in that country, I went down the coast,
touching at Annam and spending some Uttle time on the Malay
Peninsula and in Java, From Yokohama to Shanghai I safled
with Captain Connor, an Essex County, Massachusetts, boy.
After passing through Shimonoseki Straits, Captain Connor
pointed out to me a rocky and precipitous island, and said
that eleven years before he and his wife were on a vessel that
was wrecked on this island. The night was very dark, though
the sea was calm. Rockets of distress were sent up, and in a
short time fishermen came alongside from up and down the
mainland, to aid in any way. The personal property of the
passengers was passed over the sides of the vessel to these
rescuers, who disappeared in the darkness. In the morning
a Japanese Government steamer drew alongside, and taking
the passengers and crew aboard, landed them at Nagasaki, a
distance of one hundred and forty miles from the scene of the
shipwreck. The passengers, somewhat anxious about their
personal property, consisting of all their clothing and other
items, wondered how they were to recover it, and were politely
informed by the officers that as soon as the Government
could post notices along the coast road indicating some places
where the property might be brought, afl the material would
be gathered and returned. Within a few days every single
item, to cuff buttons and sofled collars, was brought to
Nagasaki, and not a single object was lost. Captain Connor
added, with a bitter smile, that a few years before he and his
wife were wrecked on the coast of New Jersey in the month
of November, It was very cold at the time. It is needless to

CHINESE MEDICINE 425
mention the bitter treatment they received except to state
that they were robbed of everything.
In no better way does the freedom from afl bigotry show
itself than in the way in which the Chinese practice of medi
cine was doomed when the people began to see the sound
prmciples of the foreign practice. The
prompt establishment of a medical college,
and the inquiries that were made as to
where Americans were sent to finish their
medical education, showed the sagacity
of the Government, It was found that our
distinguished physicians and surgeons had
studied in the medical schools and hos
pitals of BerUn and Vienna, Thereupon
Germans were invited to teach in the med
ical coUege and students had to be well
grounded in the German language before
entering. Furthermore, a chemical lab
oratory was established in Yokohama for the purpose of
examining all drugs that were unported to the country to
ascertain their purity. The absurd pharmacopoeia of the em
pirical Chinese practice was discarded, although in the coun
try one would often see hanging from the ceiUng the dried
foetuses of deer (fig. 777), or dried centipedes, and other
grotesque absurdities representing the materia medica of the
Chinese. A quack is caUed a bamboo doctor, probably because the
bamboo is light and hollow.
I made the acquaintance of Mr. Sugi, head of the Statistical

Fig. 777

426 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
Department of Tokyo, and found him a very intelligent man,
interested in the antiquities of Japan, tea ceremonies, and the
like. From him I secured many interesting facts regarding
health conditions of Tokyo, Dr, Baker, of Lansing, Michigan,
Secretary of the State Board of Health, sent me his report for
1879. Among vital statistics I found that eighty-seven mur
ders had been committed in that year. As the population of
the State of Michigan at that time was only slightly larger
than the population of Tokyo, I asked Mr. Sugi how many
murders had been committed in Tokyo for the year. He
said none; indeed, only eleven murders and two cases of poli
tical assassination had been committed in Tokyo in the last
ten years.
On inquiry of Mr. Agee and others in regard to the first
public lectures in Japan it was dififlcult to secure reliable in
formation. The renowned Fukuzawa informed me that in 1871
a number of scholars met together and papers and essays were
read. The sessions were private. In 1873-74 an association
was formed under the name of Mairokushi, consisting of older
scholars. The public was admitted to their discussions. Trans
actions were also published. In 1874-75 Mr, Fukushi and
Mr. Numa gave a few lectures, for which a small admission fee
was charged. In the latter part of 1875 a lecture association
was established under the name of Kodankai. Messrs, Fuku
zawa, Obata, Enouye, Yano, Agee, and other scholars met
twice a month, A small fee was charged for admission to the
lectures, and at first much opposition was shown by some of
the members, as it was thought highly improper, not to say
discourteous, to ask an admission fee. Another organization

PUBLIC LECTURES 427
was effected in 1878, known as the New Kodankai, the first
meeting being held on September 21, 1878, Mr, Agee at
tempted to establish public lecturing as a paid profession, after
the American method. Again the charging of an admission
fee caused the resignation of some of the members. The lec
tures were given on Sunday, and four or five lectures were
given at each session, with an intermission of a few minutes
between the lectures. Among those who lectured in the first
course were Messrs, Sugi, Nishi, Toyama, Kawazu, Kato,
Agee, Kikuchi, Numa, Fukuzawa, Sato, Fujita, Nakamura,
and three Americans, Mendenhall, FenoUosa, and Morse, The
lecturers were Japanese and American professors of the Im
perial University, officials of Government departments, edi
tors, a Buddhist priest, and other prominent men. The lec
tures were given in a large hall, and the audience averaged
from six to eight hundred and showed no diminution in num
bers to the end. It was interesting to see the auditors squat
ting on the matted floor, — not closely jammed together, —
attentive and evidently eager to understand the lectures on
evolution in religion, in the solar system, and in the animal
kingdom. The platform was only slightly raised above the
level of the matted floor. There was, of course, no artificial
heat in the hall. At times it was so cold that I had to wear my
thick winter ulster whfle lecturing. Compelled to be in my
stockinged feet, I endeavored in vain to stand in one place,
but by the end of the lecture my feet were very cold. At the
end of the lecture many of the auditors would rise to exchange
greetings with some friends in other parts of the hall, I used
to watch the place where some corpulent auditor was sitting.

428 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
and if he rose, I would find the hot spot on the mats where hei
had sat and warm my feet tiU the lectures proceeded. It was
a curious experience in my early lectures in Japan to have a
police ofiflcer armed with a sword sitting in a chair by my side
and facing the audience. My lamented friend, Mr, Agee, was
known as a radical, and he interpreted my lectures. He might
have made me utter the most seditious sentunents, so far
as I knew, for I had only acquired a few Japanese words and
expressions. Later in my lecture experiences I had learned
enough of the language often to grasp the meaning of my in
terpreter's translation, and on a few occasions I ventured to
correct him. The pleased and sympathetic expressions of my
auditors at the evidence that I was beginning to understand
their language, were gratifying.
The following is a list of subjects dealt with in the first
course of the Kodankai : —
Sept. 21. Mr. Toyama. On public speeches and lectures.
Mr. Kawazu. Advantages and disadvantages of a represen
tative assembly.
Mr. Fujita. Necessity of cooperation.
Mr. Nishi. Congratulatory address.
Mr. Fukuzawa. Criticism on his "Rights of the Nation."
Mr. Morse. Congratulatory address.
Oct. 6. Dr. Hasegawa (of the city hospital). Evil effects of drinking
impure water.
Mr. Numa. Conflict of native and foreign laws.
Mr. Shimaji. On value.
Mr. Kikuchi. Evolution of the solar system.
Mr. Ouchi. Advantages of admitting women to more social
privileges.
Mr. Nishi. Practice makes perfect.
Mr. Nakamura. On competition and cooperation.
Mr. Mendenhall. Introductory address.
Oct. 20. Mr. Kikuchi. Evolution of the solar system (continued).

PUBLIC LECTURES 429
Oct, 20. Mr. Morse. Insect life.
Dr. Kato (Director of the Imperial University). On the
opinions of Moto-ori and Hirata. (Old Japanese scholars
who believed that Chinese civilization ought to be disre
garded, as the Japanese had a civilization of their own.)
Mr. Toyama. Association of ideas.
Mr. Sugi. Moral statistics.
Oct. 27, 28, 31, and Nov. 2. Mr. Morse. A course of four lectures
on Darwinism. Evolution of the animal kingdom.
Nov. 10. Mr. Agee. On the army and navy.
Mr. Nishi. Practice makes perfect (continued).
Mr. FenoUosa. Evolution of religions.
Mr. Ono. Battle of words. (Showing the persuasive effect of
eloquence.)
Mr. Fujita. On the Forty-seven Ronins.
Nov. 17. Mr. Fukuzawa. Rights of the nation (extra territoriality) .
Mr. Kikuchi. Future of the solar system.
Mr. Toyama. Matters relating to foreign intercourse cannot
easily be altered.
Mr. FenoUosa, Evolution of religions (continued),
Dec. 1. Mr. Kawazu. Absurdity of Socialism.
Mr. FenoUosa. Evolution of religions (concluded).
Mr. Morse. The Glacial Theory.
Mr. Tsuji. On the fine arts.
Dec. 15. Mr. Agee. On assumed virtue.
Mr. Kikuchi. What constitutes a good government.
Mr. Fujita. Necessity of checks.
Mr. Sugi. Moral statistics.
Jan. 5. Mr. Kikuchi. Evolution in general.
Mr. Toyama. Illusion of the senses.
Mr. Morse. Laws of growth in animals.
Mr. Nakamura. Good and evil of society.
Mr. Kato. A few words to the members.
Mr. Sato. Cultivation of the brain.
Mr. Agee. On the evil effects of rewarding informers.
An insight into the intellectual activities of the Japanese
may be gathered, not only by the books which have been
translated into Japanese and sold by the thousands, but by
the subjects dealt with in these public lectures. I know of no

430 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
public course of lectures in the United States to compare with
them, except the Lowell Institute's free courses of lectures in
Boston. 1
The intellectual character of the audience may be judged
by the fact that it sat patiently through a session of four or
five one-hour lectures with only a slight intermission between
them. What lecture audience in America, or in any other
country, could stand such an ordeal as that!
The official positions of some of these men who lectured in
this first course of the association are as follows: Mr, Fujita,
editor of a Tokyo daily paper; Mr, Nishi, formerly clerk in
the War Department; Mr, Fukuzawa, famous teacher, repre
sentative in new local assembly; Mr, Hasekawa, doctor in the
City Hospital; Mr, Numa, clerk in Genroin (Privy Council);
Mr, Shimaji, Buddhist preacher; Mr, Kikuchi, Professor
of Mathematics, Imperial University, Cambridge wrangler;
Mr, Ouchi, editor of a Buddhist religious journal; Mr, Kato,
director of the Imperial University, famous Dutch scholar;
Mr, Toyama, Professor of Philosophy, graduate of the Uni
versity of Michigan; Mr, Sugi, head of statistical department;
Mr, Kawazu, clerk in Genroin; Mr, Agee, Professor of the
Imperial University; Mr. Ono, clerk in Genroin; Mr. Tsuji,
clerk in the Educational Department,
In the fall of 1882 the Department of Education invited the
head teachers of the various kens to meet together in Tokyo
for the purpose of discussing matters connected with their
work. Among other questions that came up was one referring
' Om' public lecture courses have now fallen from their high standard of thirty
years ago to lantern shows, musical entertainments, with rarely a thoughtful or
scientific lecture.

INGENUITY OF STUDENTS 431
to the teaching of physical science in the schools. It was urged
by many that the apparatus for this purpose was far beyond
theh power to purchase, and without the apparatus but Uttle
progress could be made. Thereupon the pupils of the Tokyo
Normal School resolved to make a number of devices to il
lustrate how chfeaply and easily many of the instruments re
quired for the study of physics could be made. Before the
session ended the students had made fifty-six instmments,
which were exhibited on the platform, with a list of the mate
rials used in their construction. These materials consisted of
bits of glass and wire, bottles, corks, bamboo, stuff that could
be got from any junk-shop. From the list of devices here given
it will be seen that the Japanese are not only apt pupils in
acquiring a knowledge of physical science, but that they dis
play a great deal of ingenuity in fabricating the proper appar
atus for its illustration, I could not help realizing what a
grasp of the subject a student would get in studying out and
constructing this primitive apparatus. Such an example
might profitably be followed by our students at home with
their Yankee ingenuity and skill with a jack-knife, and with
a far larger assortment of materials to be found, even about
the house. List of devices
1. Balance.
2. Balance with weights.
3. Pendulum.
4. Centrifugal machine.
5. Inchned plane.
6. Centre of gravity, double cone.
7. Dropping-machine with pendulum.
8. Centre of gravity. Equilibrist.

432 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
9. Lever balance.
10. Heros fountain.
11. Suction pump.
12. Cohesion figures.
13. Barker's mill, with inclined plane.
14. Forcing pump.
15. Illustrating air pressure,
16. Geissler's air pump.
17. Illustrating suction.
18. Air receiver, with manometer.
19. Baroscope, with air receiver.
20. Windmill.
21. Illustrating suction.
22. Air pump exhausting and condensing.
23. Tuning-fork.
24. Vibration of bell.
25. Savert's apparatus, with two kinds of resonator.
26. Sonometer, with bow.
27. Wave phenomena.
28. Resonator.
29. Pyrometer.
30. Expansion of solid.
31. Angle mirrors.
32. Rumford's photometer.
33. Efflux of gas.
34. Light experiment.
35. Camera obscura.
36. Continuation of light.
37. Diffusion of light.
38. Hollow prism.
39. Expansion of gas, with index.
40. Expansion of liquids.
41. Illustration of thermometer.
42. Magnetic needle.
43. Magnetic needle, with stand.
44. Electric pendulum.
45. Universal discharger.
46. Electro baU.
47. Electro pendulum.
48. Discharger.
49. Insulating stool.
50. Alarum bell.

JAPANESE COURAGE 433
51. Electro wheel.
52. Nairne's electro machine.
53. Leyden jar.
54. Galvanometer.
55. Galvanic keys.
56. Gravitation battery.
The foflowing is a list of the objects used in construction:
copper, brass, and iron wire, bamboo in various forms, thread
and string, augers and gimlets, saucers, card, zinc and tin
plate, lead buUets, old seats, shallow wooden tub, lid of box,
spinning-top, thin boards, wine bottles, glass tubing, buckets,
lamp chimney, paper and cardboard, pieces of leather, copper
coins, sheU, wine glass, tumblers, rubber tubing, mercury,
candles, flask, rubber ball, needles of various kinds, wheat
straws, lady's scissors, porcelain bowl, cups, lantern, abacus
balls, paper tea caddy, priest's bell, draughting-board, hook
nafls, mirror glass and ordinary glass, magnifying glass,
feather, sealing wax, vitriol, watch-spring, small bottles, and
funnel. The rough and aggressive Anglo-Saxons, untfl within a half-
century, have held the most erroneous ideas of the Japanese.
It was thought that a nation whose men flew kites, studied
flower arrangement, enjoyed toy gardens, carried fans, and
manifested other effeminate customs and behaviors, must of
necessity be a weak and chfldish people. The "Encyclopaedia
Britannica" of 1857 says: "The Japanese at one time enjoyed
a high reputation among Eastern nations for courage and mil
itary prowess. This, however, is no longer the case, and we
suspect they wifl be found an essentially feeble and pusillani
mous people. According to Golownin, they are deficient in

434 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
courage, and in the art of war mere children. This can scarcely
fafl to be the case with a people who, by all accounts, have en
joyed peace external and internal for more than two centuries.
A courageous and patient endurance of pain and suffering, and
even a contempt of death, we know to be quite consistent
with a lack of active, aggressive courage." It is not necessary
to go back as far as that, however. Lord Curzon, in his inter
esting book entitled "Problems of the Far East," published in
1894, in speaking of Japanese aspirations says: "The miUtary
parade which Japan, taking advantage of the recent disorder
in Korea, is making in that country as these pages go to press,
and which threatens to involve her in serious dispute, if not
in actual conflict, with China, is a later outcome of the same
impetuous Chauvinism." He further says these demonstra
tions "bring a smile to the lips even of the most unpassioned
apologist for national delirium." Recent events have shown
how superficial was the judgment of the Anglo-Saxon.
The two great nations, China and Russia, the terror of
Europe, were both thrashed by the Japanese within a period
of eight years (1894-1902) ; their fleets utterly destroyed, and
indemnity secured — in cash from China, and from Russia
the southern half of the island of Saghalien. England for the
first time regarded Japan as worthy of notice and formed an
alliance with her. Really the ethics of a mining camp !
A late writer on the Japanese says: "Togo's people, the
Japanese, are a race of patriots — toflers and warriors, too.
Their characteristic is not yet fully understood by the peoples
of the West. They have been represented to us by many su
perficial observers as a race of imitators, incapable of original

JAPAN AND AMERICA 435
I action, competent only to select the best inventions of other
people and to apply these inventions in an awkward manner
for their own use. Nothing is further from the truth. No
people on earth is keener in search of exact knowledge. No
people on earth is animated by a stronger national feeling.
No people on earth is capable of larger individual sacrifice for
the common gooti. No people on earth excels the Japanese in
clarity or subtlety of logical thought."
In closing, the reader may wonder, after the manners of
the Japanese have been so often contrasted with those of our
selves, what my attitude is regarding my own people. I be
lieve that we have much to learn from Japanese life, and
that we may to our advantage frankly recognize some of our
weaknesses. The words of Mr. O'Meara, the Police Commis
sioner in Boston, have deeply unpressed me. He declared
that hoodlumism was the greatest menace to our country. I
have therefore held up in contrast the behavior of the Jap
anese. My comparisons are not invidious. They are simply
plain statements of facts as I saw them forty years ago. To
feel this weakness of ours is not to condemn us as an inferior
people, and one may stiU read with a feeling of pride and belief
such appreciative comments about America as Hall Caine, in
"My Story," writes. "I love its people because they are free
with a freedom which the rest of the world takes as by stealth,
and they claun openly as their right. I love them because
they are the most industrious, earnest, active, and ingenious
people on the earth; because they are the most moral, reli
gious, and above aU, the most sober people in the world;
because, in spite of aU shaUow judgments of superficial ob-

436 JAPAN DAY BY DAY
servers, they are the most childlike in their national charac
ter, the easiest to move to laughter, the readiest to be touched
to tears, the most absolutely true in their unpulses, and the
most generous in their applause. I love the men of America
because their bearing towards the women is the finest chiv
alry I have yet seen anywhere, and I love the women be
cause they can preserve an unquestioned purity with a frank
and natural manner, and a fine independence of sex."

THE END

INDEX

INDEX

Acting, I, 404-06.
Actors, I, 29, fig., 30, fig., 385, fig., 404-06.
Affection and its manifestation, I, 384, 385;
2, 202, 203.
Agee, Professor, l, 364, 390, 414 ; 2, 426-30.
Ainus, dance of, 2, 1 ; poisoned arrows of, 2;
offerings to the gods, 2; huts, 3, fig., 16,
fig., 21-27, figs.; women, 3, 4, fig., 19,
20, figs.; and bear trap, 12; children, 19,
20, figs.; boxes, 21, 22; village, 22, fig.,
29; weapons, 26, fig., 27, fig.; store
houses, 27, 28, figs.; mortars, 28, fig.;
boats, 28, fig.; salutations, 29; liorses, 29-
32, figs.; shrines, 33, fig.; gifts of various
articles, 376, 377, figs.
Alphabet, Japanese and Chinese, I, 166 n.,
218, 219.
America, HaU Caine quoted on, 2, 435, 436.
Anchors, 2, 162, 163, fig.; Ainu, 377, fig.
Ancient implements, i, 311, fig.
Anniversaries, 2, 195.
Antiquarians, calls from, 2, 414, 415.
Ants, speed of movement of, 2, 196.
Aomori, 2, 48.
Aqueducts, 2, 276, 276, fig.
Archeeological museum. University, Tokyo,
beginning of, I, 311.
Archery, 2, 211, 212, 334, 335, 361, figs.,
362; Korean, 296, 329; Ainu, 355, 366.
Arrows, Ainu, 2, 27, fig. ; Japanese, 353.
Art, wonders of Japanese, 1, 252, 253, figs.,
258-62, figs., 305, fig., 306, fig.; house
hold, 269, 270, fig.; hand-work, 2, 104,
105, figs. ; fictile, state of early, 376.
Art and nature, I, 252, 253.
Artists and artizans, I, 343.
Aaakuaa, Tokyo, I, 125, 266, 267, 269; 2,
229.
Asiatic Society of Japan, the, I, 320, 359.
Assassination, a political, I, 376-79.
Astronomy, ignorance of, 2, 165.
Audience in theatre, I, 28, 29.
Awls, 1, 412, fig.
Axes, I, 278, fig.
Azaleas, I, 66, 83, 95.
Babies. See Children.
Back, pounding the, I, 318.
Bags, saddle, I, 424, fig.

Baird, Professor, I, 36 n.
Bairei, Mr., 2, 260-62, 301.
Ball-playing, 2, 81.
Bamboo, uses of, I, 32, 53, 101, 108, 113,
156, fig.; 2, 145, fig., 162, fig., 276, fig.;
lumber yards of, I, 119.
Barbers, peripatetic, I, 53, 230; outfit of,
230, fig.; movements of, 378; women, 2,
108.
Basket of candy, 2, 262, fig.
Baskets, fish, I, 35, fig.; orange, 2, 86, fig.;
Ainu fish, 377, fig.
Basket-work, 1, 271-73, figs.
Bathhouse, 2, 162, fig.
Baths, public, I, 97-101, fig.
Battledore and shuttlecock, 2, 87, figs.
Beads, on harness, 2, 163, fig.; rare and
valuable, 366, figs.
Beans, I, 37, fig.
Beggars, I, 21, 34, 49, 178, 179, 430.
Bells, method of striking, I, 75, 80, fig.
Betto, I, 9.
Bigelow, Dr. William Sturgis, 2, 208.
Bills, currency, I, 318.
Bills, inn, 2, 36, fig.
Biological society, I, 340; 2, 214.
Birds, tameness of, 2, 66, fig., 80; trained,
229-33, figs.
Birth superstitions, 2, 310.
Biwa, the, I, 379, fig.; 2, 121, fig., 394, fig.,
396.
Blacksmith's shop, I, 344, fig.
Blacksmiths, I, 60, 378; 2, 292, 345, fig.
Blind masseurs, I, 20, 219* 220.
Blindness, I, 20, 60, 53.
Blocks, city, I, 121, 150, fig., 383, fig.
Blow-guns, 1, 123.
Blowing bubbles, I, 207, fig., 412.
Bluffs, undercut, 2, 32, fig., 40, fig.; erosion
in, 70, fig.
Board, cost of, 2, 369.
Boat, adventure in a, I, 101, 102, fig.; and
crew, 186, fig. ; 2, 60, fig., 62, fig., 63, figs.,
65, figs.; in two parts, 198, figs.; Ainu
fishing, 377, fig.
Boat-bailer, Ainu, 2, 377, fig.
Boat-making, 2, 258.
Boatmen, I, 1, 113, 131, 186, 422, fig.;2, 65,
fig. iSee Boat.

440

INDEX

Boats, 1, 1, 2, fig.; river, 111-14, figs.; 2, 65,
fig.; in river festival, I, 129-31, fig.;
names of, 215; fishing, 226, fig., 226; 2,
16, 17, figs. ; features of, 1, 238, fig. ; Ainu,
2, 28, fig. ; Satsuma, 154, fig. See Junks.
Bones, fragments of, 2, 11, fig.
Books, I, 120, fig., 162; English, in Japa
nese, 2, 317, 318.
Booths, 1, 348, fig., 350, 351, fig.; melon, 2,
54, 55, fig.
Boots, I, 384, fig.; Ainu, 2, 377, fig.
Botanical Garden, Tokyo, I, 378, 379.
Botany, device for studying, I, 396, fig.
Boundary marks, 2, 54.
Bouts, wrestling, I, 18, 268.
Bowing, I, 330.
Bowl, with arrow design, 2, 167, fig. ; a puz
zling, 395, 396.
Box, of cake and candy, 2, 213, 214, fig.;
souvenir of Suo, 223, fig.; with bands,
397, 398, fig.
Boxes, Ainu, 2, 21, 22.
Boys, names of, I, 213; festival, 329, 371;
Japanese, compared with American, 362;
dress, 2, 122, 123, fig.; bringing-up, 366.
Brachiopods, I, 183, 427.
Bread in form of salamander, I, 267, fig.
Breakfast, I, 145.
Bric-S.-brac, collecting, 2, 104r-07, figs.;
dealers in, 419-23.
Bridge, swept away, 1, 242, 243 ; with turtles,
368, fig.; with bed and abutments pro
tected, 2, 286, fig.
Bridge models, I, 149.
Bridge pier, model of, 1, 149, fig.
Bridges, 1, 71, 196, fig., 381, 382, figs. ; stone-
arched, 2, 141, 162, fig., 178, fig.; railless,
142, fig.; stone, 177, fig.; arched, 257, fig.
Brooks, Professor, 2, 8, 9, 10.
Brooms, 1, 147.
Bucket and dipper, l, 331.
Buckets, I, 24, fig., 97, fig., 270, fig., 304,
fig., 305, fig.
Buddhas, stone, I, 85, 428, 429, fig.
Buddhist burial, I, 408-10, figs.
Buddhist shrines, I, 121, 168, fig.
Buddhist temple, Tokyo, I, 125-28.
Building methods, I, 12, 13, fig.
Bull teams, I, 234, fig.
Bulls, I, 152; 2, 140.
Bundles, 1, 371, 372, fig.; carrying, 389, fig.
Butter, 1, 120.
Butterflies, I, 85, 95; paper, 299, fig.
Cabinet-makers, 1, 379, fig.
Cabinet-work, 2, 241, figs.
Caine, Hall, quoted on America, 2, 435,
436.

Cake, presenting, 2, 311.
Calendar, 2, 98, fig. ; superstitions, 310, 311.
Camphor tree, 2, 175, fig.
Canals, 2, 382-84, figs.
Candles, 2, 233, fig., 234, fig.
Candlesticks, I, 146, fig.; 234, figs.
Candy, 1, 110; 2, 332; in revolting forms, 1,
257 ; peddlers of, 326-28, fig. ; a present of,
395, fig.; mottoes, 2, 392, fig., 393.
Cantilever, I, 149, fig.
Cards, students playing, I, 236.
Cards of silkworm eggs, I, 109, fig., 110.
Carnivals. See Fairs, Festivals.
Carp, subject for decoration, 1, 329.
Carpenters, I, 60, 264, 265, fig., 373, fig.;
and their tools, 411, 412, fig.
Carts, man-drawn, I, 9, fig.; matsuri, 298,
299, figs.; dirt, 388, 389, fig.; 2, 303, 304,
fig.
Castle moat, 1, 13, 136, 328, fig., 329; 2,
102.
Castle of Hideyoshi, 2, 196, 197, figs.
Castle of Nagoya, 2, 254, fig., 255.
Catholic missionaries, 2, 134, 135.
Cats, I, 363.
Cave of centipedes, 2, 169-72, fig.
Cave shrine, a, I, 165, fig., 166.
Caves, mortuary, 2, 174; of Kabutoyama,
323.
Ceiling, wood for, 2, 341.
Cemeteries, I, 20, 409, 410; 2, 46, 404.
Centipedes, cave of, 2, 169-72, fig.
Chaire, 2, 119, 120, figs.
Chambermaid, I, 341, fig.
Chamber-work, i, 237, 238, fig.
Change, word for, I, 234.
Chanty, of Japanese boatmen, i, 1, 3, 186,
422; 2, 64, fig.; of pile-driving men, I, 4;
2, 283; of cart-men, I, 9; of workmen, 77,
1 15, 346, 380 ; 2, 82, 292 ; of carriers, 1,171;
of fishermen, 171.
Charms, 2, 348, 349.
Cherry blossoms, 1, 118.
Chess, Japanese, I, 61, 210, 331, fig.; de
scribed, 163, fig., 164.
Chessboard, I, 163, fig.
Chessmen, I, 163, fig., 164.
Child, drawing of, by Matsumura, I, 224,
fig.
Children, carried on the back, 1, 10, 23, fig.,
26, 41, 52, fig., 108, 114, fig., 163, fig., 201,
fig., 202, fig., 391, fig.; good-behaviour
of, 10; 2, 100; heads shaved, i, 10, 22,
199, 201, fig., 372; 2, 138, fig.; present at
every kind of activity, 1, 26 ; Japan a para
dise for, 41, 299, 351 ; engage in work, 41,
42 ; beckoning to, 62 ; drawing experience
with, 56 ; legs short in proportion to arms.

INDEX

441

65; groupof, 109, fig.; making mud cakes,
117; good-manners of, 128; incising
names, 147 ; abdominal protuberances of,
165; modeling temple, 181, 182; dressed
for company, 198, 199, fig.; with insects
on strings, 258; games of, 296, 297;
Ainu, 2, 19, 20, figs.; pretty, 75, 76; in
the theatre, 100; dancing, 122, fig.; at
fair, 369; Japanese, resemblances to
American, 402, 403; tags of, 412, fig.
Children's fair, I, 350, 361, fig.
Chimneys, 1, 182, fig.
Chinese, in Japan, 1, 277, 286, 286, fig. ; com
pared with Japanese, 370.
Chinese accountants, I, 147-49.
Chinese characters, i, 64, 90, fig., 166, fig.,
171, 218, 219, 265, 369, fig. ; 2, 82, 83, fig.,
110-16, 306, 307, 318; conciseness of sen
timent expressed by, 244; used in letters,
305.
Chinese classics, reading, 1, 183.
Chinese medicine, 2, 426.
Chinese sounds and inflections, 1, 368, 369.
Chitose, 2, 14, fig.
Chiuzenji, trip to, I, 81-89; in winter, 89;
Uttle clothing worn in, 89; ascent of Nan-
tai from, 89-104.
Chiuzenji, Lake, I, 86, 91, 96.
Cholera, I, 336; 2, 153, 244, 245.
Chopper, I, 374, fig.
Chopsticks, I, 33, 34; use of, 142, fig., 143.
Christening, ceremony resembUng, I, 164.
Circulating Ubrary, I, 120, fig.
Circus, I, 16.
Cleanliness of Japanese, 1, 42—44, 61.
Cleansing potatoes, 1, 265, fig., 278.
Clerk, inn, 2, 36, fig.
Clogs, 1, 3, fig., 8.
Clothing, of Japanese boatmen, I, 1, 422;
of jinrikisha men, 6, 105; of tea-firers, 26;
of carpenters, 31 ; of Japanese on the road,
46; Uttle worn in Chiuzenji, 89; man
mending, 203, fig.; Japanese and Amer
ican, 274-77, fig. ; of Japanese-and Chinese
teachers, 276, 281; Japanese, described,
302, 303, figs., 319; ill-fitting, 384, fig.;
winter, 2, 84, 86, figs., 107, fig. ; boys', 122,
123, fig.; cooler than ours, 199; appro
priateness of, 201; of nobles' school-chil
dren, 204; Korean, 220, 296-98, figs.
Cloud effects, 1, 150.
Club, entertainment at, 2, 373-76, fig.
Coins with holes, i, 41, fig.
Collecting bric-Jl-brac, 2, 104-07, figs.
Collectors, and collecting, Japanese, 2, 106,
107, 408.
Colman, Samuel, I, 64.
Compass, names of points of, 2, 228.

Composition room, 2, 110-14, figs.
Concert, a Japanese, i, 398-402, figs.
Confectionery. See Candy.
Conflagrations. See Fires.
Conjurors, 1, 341, 342, fig., 392, 393, fig.
Contribution box, 2, 232, 349.
Conventionalized natural objects, I, 145.
Conversation, ejaculations and sounds of, I,
184.
Cook, the, 1, 207, fig.
Corbicula, I, 87.
Costume. See Clothing.
Cotton factory, a, 2, 270-73.
Courtesy, I, 117, 177; a governor's, 2, 168,
169.
Crabs, 2, 146, fig.
Cradles, basket, 2, 49, fig.
Cremation, I, 20; 2, 336-38, figs.
Crematory at Senju, 2, 335-38, figs.
Criminals, I, 247.
Crow, tameness of, 2, 66, fig., 80.
Cryptomeria, I, 58, 106.
Cup, sakfi, 1, 38, fig.
Curious crowd, a, I, 439, fig.
Curtain, theatre, 1, 30.
Curzon, Lord, quoted, 2, 434.
Custom house, 1, 419, 426, fig.
Customs oflBcers, I, 2.
Cut, a mountain, 2, 57, 58, fig.
Cuttlefish, I, 35, fig., 109, 162.
Daggers, Ainu, 2, 26, fig., 27.
Daikoku, 2, 87, fig.
Daikon, I, 36, 37; 2, 311.
Daimyo, residence of a, I, 333, fig.
Daimyos, the, 1, 14, 312.
Dancing, 1, 387, 392, 401 ; of Ainus, 2, 1.
Dancing girls, I, 300.
Darwinism, lecturing on, 1, 339, 340, 416.
Death, sign of, 2, 295, fig.
Decorations, I, 22, 252, 263, figs.
Decorative art, I, 252, 263, figs., 268-62,
figs., 306, fig., 306, fig.
Deer, tame wild, 2, 275, 295.
Defacement of buildings, I, 199.
Deformities, l, 116.
Dentistry, I, 40.
Devotion, religious, 2, 47.
Dimples, 2, 405.
Dinner, the first, I, 143, 144, fig.; a family,
386, 387; with the Governor, 2, 156-60;
a parting, 213; given by Japanese profes
sors, 215, 216; in a cotton factory, 272,
273, fig.; given by Prince Fushimi-no-
Miya, 366.
Dinner customs, 2, 413.
Dinner entertainment, a, I, 389-93, figs.

442

INDEX

Dinners, farewell, i, 369, 364-67; formal,
365-67, 380, 382, 386.
Dipper, bamboo, 2, 145, fig.
Directory, city, nature in the, 2, 416, 417.
Directory makers, x, 121.
Dirt, method of lugging, I, 117, fig., 389;
carried in saddle-bags, 424, fig.
Dirt carts, l, 388, 389, fig.
Dirty town, a, 1, 106, 107.
Diseases, 1, 21, 39, 40, 127, 128.
Dismounting on the road, an old custom, 2,
50, 61.
Dogs, 1, 193, 194, 388; names of, 214;
"Kumhere," 246; of Yezo, 2, 18.
DoUs, 2, 366.
Dolmens, 2, 182.
Door-plates, I, 412, 413, fig.
Dormitories, I, 360, 361; 2, 361, 352.
Dragonflies, I, 86; on strings, 268; sport
with, 2, 289.
Drawers, I, 373, fig.
Drawing-school, Bairei's, 2, 260-62, 301.
Drawings, of mountains, i, 216, 216, fig.;
with brush, 224.
Dredging, 183-85, 224, 227, 426, 427, fig.,
439; 2, 47, 137, 154.
Dress. See Clothing.
Drowning accident, 2, 73.
Drums, I, 391, fig.
Drying device for clothing, I, 186, 187, fig.
Dwarfing trees, 1, 125.
Earthquakes, I, 161, 334, 335, 395, 396; 2,
398.
Eating on the floor, I, 143, 144, fig.; 2, 37,
fig.
Education, I, 282.
Educational Museum, Tokyo, 1, 281, 282.
Eggs, I, 37; 2, 57, fig.
Eldridge, Dr., 1, 39, 178, 181.
Emperor's birthday, 2, 343, 344.
Emperor's garden, the, 2, 341-43.
English, studied in Japan, 2, 116, 116.
English books in Japanese, 2, 317, 318.
Engravers, wood, I, 265, 266, fig.
Enoshima, zoological station at, I, 138-41;
place of resort, 156; position of, 162, fig.;
map of island, 174, fig. ; street in, 192, fig. ;
at midnight, 195; collecting at, 205, 209;
the author's lite at, 245, 246; temple reUcs
at, 246, 247.
Enouye, Count, 2, 343.
Enouye, Professor, i, 364, 390, 414.
Envelopes, 2, 192, 194, 239, 306, fig., 410.
Epitaph, 2, 404, 405.
Erosion, 2, 70, fig.
Eta class, the, 2, 356.
Evolution, lecturing on, I, 339, 340.

Ewatayama, 2, 69, 63, fig.
Executions and executioners, I, 312; 2, 347,
348.
Eye troubles, I, 53.
Eyebrow, name of, 2, 78.
Eyelashes, name of, 2, 78.
Fah:s, I, 122; 2, 89, 348-60; children's, I,
350, 351; flower, 394; children at, 2, 369.
See Festivals.
Falconry, 2, 381-88, figs.
Fan racks, I, 21, fig.
Fans, I, 145, 154, 155, 363; winnowing, 2,
69, fig.
FareweU dinners, I, 359, 364-67.
Farmers, matting on shoulders, I, 152, fig. ;
sweeping the road, 153, fig.; working in
rice-field, 153, fig.
Farmhouses, I, 11, 47, 50, 51, fig.
Farr, Mr., 1, 150.
Female characters in the theatre, 1, 30.
Female Normal School, Tokyo, burned, 2,
378, fig.
Fences, 2, 139, 242, fig.
Fencing, 2, 206, 207, 217, figs., 218, figs.
FenoUosa, Professor, I, 402.
FertUizing,- 1, 10, fig., 23, 24.
Festivals, street, i, 122, 298, 299, figs., 429,
430; river, 129-31, fig. ; 2, 263 ; in honor of
ancestors, 1, 201 ; children's, 299 ; for boys,
329, 371; at Wakayama, 2, 290, 291.
See Fairs.
Fingers, names of, 2, 78.
Fire alarm, I, 131, fig.; a precautionary, 2,
39, fig.
Fire bowls, 1, 401 ; 2, 392.
Fire companies, l, 132, 133; 2, 38, 100.
Fire engine, I, 132, fig., 134, fig.; 2, 127, fig.
Fire-engine house, 2, 38, fig., 293, fig.
Fire-fighting, 1, 131-36, figs, ; 2, 126-28, figs.
Fire pipes, I, 132, 133, fig..
Fire-ruined house with labels, 2, 119, fig.,
127, fig.
Fire talisman, 2, 63.
Fire vessels, 1, 7, 27, 51, 386.
Firemen, 1, 134, fig. ; hats, 358, fig. ; presents
to, 2, 119, fig., 127, fig.; heat endurance
of, 124; skiU, 126.
Fireplace, 2, 25, fig., 35, fig., 63, fig.
Fireproof buildings, I, 12, 31, 32, 178, fig.,
182, fig., 222-24, fig., 430, fig.
Fires, 1, 12, 13, 31, 32, 61, 119, 182, 222-24,
fig.; 2, 38, 123-28, figs., 378, fig., 398; de
scribed, I, 131-36, figs., 366-58, figs.;
care to avoid, 413.
Fireworks, for day and night, 1, 368.
Fish, in markets, i, 34-36, figs.; netting,
113, 114, fig.; raw, eaten, 144, 185; at

INDEX

443

boys' festival, 329, 371, fig.; in Ainu huts,
2, 21, 24, 25, figs. ; method of smoking, 57,
fig.; hopping, 174; and fishing, 418, 419,
figs.
Fish hooks, 2, 419, figs.
Fish knife, 2, 419, fig.
Fish peddling, I, 25.
Fisherman's lunch, a, I, 185.
Fishermen, 2, 61, fig.
Fishermen's huts, 1, 217, 218, fig., 421, fig. ;
2, 65, fig.
Fishhooks, 2, 419, figs.
Fishing, 1, 62, fig.
Fishing boats, I, 225, fig., 226; Satsuma, 2,
149, fig.; Ainu, 377, fig.
Fishing nets, 2, 66, fig.
Fish-women at Otaru, i, 437.
Flags, I, 89, fig., 90, fig., 166, fig.
Flails, 1, 66, fig.
Flax, preparation of, 2, 366, fig.
Fleas, wild and domestic, I, 87; nuisance,
161.
FUes, 1, 61, 206.
Floor, eating on the, 1, 143, 144, fig. ; sleeping
on the, 161.
Floors, 2, 330, fig.
Flower fair, I, 394.
Flower-holders, 1, 271-73, figs., 304, fig.,
305, figs., 330, 331, figs.
Flower-pot holders, I, 394, fig.
Flowers, r, 66, 91, 118, 140, 372; 2, 330, 331.
Flute, 2, 224.
Food, 1, 63, 87, 88, 120, 227; seems tasteless
and insipid, 63; of the lower classes, 87,
88; offerings of, 121; manner of serving
and eating, 141, 142, 391, fig. ; dinner, 143,
144, fig.; breakfast, 145; Japanese, less
nutritious, less rational, and less easy to
digest than ours, 162 ; a fisherman's lunch,
185; a biU of fare, 193; fruits and vege
tables, 197, 198; grasshoppers as, 344,
345; 2, 324, 326; at a fareweU dinner, i,
364, 365; at a family dinner, 387; at
Otaru, 439-41; New Year's, 2, 93, fig.;
a lunch, 102, 103, fig.; from soya beans,
287, figs.; at Mr. Okuma's, 396; animal,
418, 419.
Fool, word for, 2, 341.
Foot-bridges, 1, 381, 382, figs.
FootUghts, I, 29.
Footmen, i, 9.
Forceps, bamboo, 2, 162, fig.
Foreigners, courtesy to, I, 117; restrictions
upon, 118, 119; views of a masseur on,
220; rule as to place of residence, 316; at
tract attention, 292.
Fourth of July, celebrating, I, 102-04, 413.
Fowl, domestic, i, 53.

Fox, superstitions connected with, 2, 315.
Fraud among bric-i-brac dealers, 2, 419-23
Frogs, I, 87.
Fruit, I, 37, 197, 198, 300, fig., 379.
Fujisawa, I, 167, 207, 208, 241.
Fujita, 2, 71.
Fujita, Mr., 2, 427-30.
Fujiyama, I, 93, fig., 140, 188, 189, 331, 332 ;
conventionalized, 145, fig.; meaning of
name, 214; drawings of, 216, 216, fig.;
snow-covered, 2, 403, 404, fig.
Fukui, Mr., I, 311-14.
Fukuoka, 2, 50.
Fukuyo, Mr., l, 352, 359.
Fukuzawa, Mr., his school, 2, 206-07; lec
tures, 426-30.
Funeral, i, 408-10, figs.; customs, 2, 309;
honorary, 366-60, figs.
Furniture, I, 7, 8, 78, 187-89, figs.
Futon, I, 87.
GaUantry, I, 8.
Games, I, 123, 157-69, 162-64, 210-12,
296, 297, 366;2, 80, 87, figs., 372, 373, fig.,
402, 403.
Garden, a government, I, 380-82, figs. ; of a
tea-house, 390, fig. ; the Emperor's, 2, 341-
43.
Garden stones, I, 119.
Gardening, l, 117, 118.
Gardens, I, 246.
Gate, automaticaUy closed, 2, 276.
Gateways, picturesque, 2, 397.
Geisha girls, 2, 362, 353.
Genibaku, 2, 7, fig.
German language, 1, 210.
Gestures, 2, 351.
Ginza, the, 2, 414.
Girls, bathing, I, 83; dressed for company,
198, 199, fig. ; names of, 213 ; dancing, 300;
geisha, 2, 352, 363.
Glaciation, I, 86.
Glass, jingling, 1, 61, fig.
Go, the game of, 1, 167-59, 210.
Godo-wns, 1, 32, 178, fig. ; 2, 362, fig., 378.
God-sheU, I, 121, 168, fig.
God-sticks, 2, 26.
Gojio, 2, 293.
Goldfish holder, 1, 389, fig.
Gongs, wooden, I, 425, fig.
Gonza, 2, 247, 350, 421-23.
Good-manners of Japanese children, I, 128.
Government garden, a, I, 380-82, figs.
Grant, U. S., 1, 71 n. ; dinner to, 2, 200-02.
Grapes, I, 278, 279, fig.
Grasshoppers, peddled, I, 120; on strings,
258; as food, 344, 346; 2, 324, 325.
Graves, 2, 361.

444

INDEX

Gravestones, 1, 360, fig., 361, figs.
Greeting, Japanese, 2, 202, 201.
Griffis, Dr. W. E., l, 121 re.
Guide-posts, I, 106.
Guitar, 2, 262, fig.
Gutters, I, 69, 105.
"Ha" and "Hei," 1, 184.
Hair, women's, I, 68, 279, fig., 280; 2, 108-
10, figs., 119, fig., 129, 130, figs.; tousled,
1, 302, fig., 398; girl doing up, 304, fig.;
the queue, 397, fig., 398; 2, 415, 416;
banged, 20, figs., 129; of Ainu, 30, fig.;
children's, 129, 130, figs. ; ornaments, 412,
413, figs.
Hairpins, 2, 412, 413, figs.
Hakama, the, 2, 122, 123, fig.
Hakodate, lan<Ung at, I, 417; harbor, 417,
418, figs., 421, fig.; the town, 418, figs.;
call on the Governor of, 418, 419; author
accommodated in, 419, 420; 2, 45, fig.;
from Sapporo to, 13-43, figs.
Hakone, 2, 241, 242.
Haliotis, l, 35, fig., 109, 162.
Hamamatsu, 2, 246.
Hamao, Dr., Vice-Director of University, I,
281, 364.
Hands, games with, I, 210-12; 2, 372, 373,
fig.
Hanging flower-holders, I, 271-73, figs.
Hansuke, 2, 256.
Hara-kiri, I, 404,
Harp, I, 399, fig.
Harris, Mr., consul at Hakodate, I, 417.
Hasekawa, Mr., 2, 428, 430.
Hashi-ishi, I, 58, 69, fig., 96, 102, 103.
Hats, I, 50, 128, 163, fig., 189, fig.
Hattori, Professor, I, 364, 386, 390.
Hattorigawa, 2, 181.
Hawkers, 2, 384, fig.
Headlands, 2, 163, figs.
Healthf ulness of Japan, 1, 23, 39 ; 2, 426.
Hedges, I, 66, 83, 117.
"Hei" and "Ha," I, 184.
Heike gani, 2, 146, fig.
Hens, I, 53.
Hepburn, Japanese and E-nalish Dictionary,
I, 219.
Hideyoshi, Castle of, 2, 196, 197, figs.
Higo, 2, 143, 146-48, figs., 163, fig.
Hikisawa, 2, 393, fig.
Hiroshima, 2, 263.
Historical collection at Nara, 2, 182, 183.
Hi-yamugi, 2, 262, fig.
Hoes, I, 65, fig., 307, figs.
Holes, way of mending, I, 66.
Holidays, I, 65.
HoUyhooks, I, 66, 118.

Honesty ot Japanese, I, 37, 38, 167, 316, ,
317.
Hoodlumism, lack of, 2, 338, 339, 436.
Hook, fire, 2, 38, fig., fish, 419, figs.
Horseback riding, 2, 4-9, 13-15, 29-35, 42, ,
48.
Horse-shoes, 1, 22.
Horses, I, 61; names of, 216; Ainu,2, 29-32,
figs.; faUs from, 42; care of, 64.
Horticultural HaU, Industrial Exhibition, I, ,
248.
Hospitality, i, 7; Yatsushiro, 2, 167; Iwa^
kuni, 273, 274.
Hotels, I, 66; 2, 257, fig. See Inn, Inns.
House, Mr., l, 178.
House, of artist, 1, 330; old, 430, fig. ; in Ya
tsushiro, 2, 167; of janitor of observatory,
220, fig.
House-construction, 2, 216, 217, fig., 293.
Household art of Japanese, I, 269, 270, fig.
Household decorations, i, 145.
Household shrines, I, 121, 168, fig., 229, fig.
Houses, 1, 6-8, 31, 32, 61, 333; fireproof, 12,
31, 32, 178, fig., 182, fig., 222-24, fig., 430,
fig.; along Tonegawa River, 114, fig.;
around Tokyo, 116; near Enoshima, 140;
open, 176, 334; before and after Revolu
tion of 1868, 316, 316; Ainu, 2, 21-27,
figs.; along Kitakami River, 68, figs.;
with poUshed floors, 326.
Humanity, Japanese bom with attributes
of, I, 44.
Huts, fishermen's, 1, 217, 218, fig., 421, fig.;
2, 65, fig.; Ainu, 3, fig., 15, fig., 21-27,

Ices, 2, 256.
Ignorance of Japanese on many subjects, I,
212
Ikkoto, Mr., I, 175, 176.
Illiteracy, I, 120.
Image, wooden, I, 127.
Impedimenta, method ot carrying, I, 82,
fig.
Imperial Gardens, Tokyo, I, 337, 338, fig.
Imperial Museum in Uyeno Park, Tokyo,
1,31.
Imperial University at Tokyo, foreign pro
fessors in, their residences, l, 14; visit to,
16; author professor at, 120, 139; author
deUvers lecture at, 138, 139; salary of
Professor at, paid to fraction of cent, 234;
beginning of work at, 281; reception to
foreign professors of, 281; nationaUty of
the foreign professors of, 281 ; the author's
servant at, 283, fig.; Ufe at, 284, 285; plan
of main building, 319, fig.; dormitories,
360, 361.

INDEX

445

Indians, American, and the Japanese, I,
371.
Indigo, 2, 68.
Industrial art museum at Tokyo, 1, 149.
Industrial Exhibition, i, 248-51, figs., 264,
256, 258-62, figs., 270, 286, 287, fig., 295,
359, 360.
Industry of Japanese, 1, 19, 20, 68;2, 51, 62.
Ink, 2, 410, 411.
Inland Sea, sailing on, 2, 132-34, fig., 266.
Inn, in a mountain viUage, I, 70, 78, figs.;
at Nowata, 109; room at, 187-89, figs.;
at Chitose, 2, 14, fig.; at Tomokomai, 16;
kitchen, 35, figs., 36.
Inns, I, 54, 63, 107, fig., 203, fig., 204; 2,
244; chamber-work at, I, 237, 238. See
Hotels.
Insane asylum, 2, 224, 347.
Insane poor, I, 360.
Inscriptions, in taverns, I, 54, 103; in tea
houses, 67, fig.; translating, 2, 82, 83, fig.
Insects, 1, 71, 81, 82, 86; coUecting, 102, 103,
fig.; peddled, 120; on strings, 258.
IntelUgent chore-man, an, I, 191, fig., 192,
201.
Interesting, the word for, 2, 316, 317.
Intoxication, 2, 65, 56, 279.
Iris, blue, 2, 63.
Irrigation, l, 46, 116; 2, 51, fig., 284.
Ishidoro, I, 151, fig.; 2, 75, fig.
Itakura, judge, 2, 400.
Itinerant musician, I, 331, fig.
Ito, Dr., botanist and President of Botani
cal Society, 1, 136, fig.; 2, 107.
Iwakuni, I, 267-70, 273, 274.
Izumi, 2, 286.
Japan, the paradise of children, I, 41, 42,
299; great thought and care bestowed
upon dress in, 277; Chinese in, 277; nearly
a third of its annual budget spent on edu
cation, 282; inferior position of women in,
282, 283; northern coast of, 416, fig.; after
an absence of two years and eight months,
2, 208; a glimpse of old, 269, 270.
Japanese, poUteness of, I, 8, 19, 28, 33, 44,
100, 117, 131, 177, 194, 196, 251, 386; 2,
56, 57, 73, 138, 347; Uttle gaUantry
observable among, I, 8; industry of,
19, 20, 68; 2, 51, 52; decorative im
pulses of, I, 22; healthf ulness of, 23, 39;
reverse customs of, 25, 221, 373, fig.;
theb manner of sitting, 27, 60; honesty
of, 37, 38, 167, 316, 317; 2, 265, 266,
424; temperance of, I, 38; cleanliness
of, 42-44, 61; physical individuaUty of,
43 ; physical peculiarities ot, 43 ; born with
attributes of humanity, 44; early hours

of, 46; exceUent taste of, 54, 67; artistic
character of, 56; country people, charac
teristics of, 66; chess, 61, 163, fig., 164;
views of, on exposing the body, 97-101;
their love for natural objects, 123, 124,
figs., 356; their faces without strongly
marked expression, 124; characteristics
of laboring classes, 125; children good-
mannered, 128; students, 157-59; alpha
bet, 166 n., 218, 219; 2, 110-16, figs.; gen
tle character of, I, 196; desirous to ac
quire knowledge, 221, 222; are timid as
sailors, 224, 226; kindness to children,
228; childishness of, 229; soldiers, 232;
characteristics of, 245, 246; their love of
nature and power to embody simple mo
tifs in decorative art, 252, 263 ; toleration
for eccentricities of dress or behavior,
274, 276; their considerate treatment of
aU, 275; hair of men, 302, fig., 303; dress,
described, 302, 303, figs., 319; Chinese
compared with, 370; and American In
dians, 371; language, 376-78, fig.; habits,
resemblance to those of other nations,
378; clothing, iU-fitting, 384, fig.; willing
ness to learn, 387, 388; alertness of, 408;
of Otaru, 436, 437; coUectors, 2, 106, 107;
officials, promptness, 137; hostile demon
strations, 245; sense, 282; names, 307,
308; society, 317; national character of,
415; love of nature, 416; courage, 433-36.
Japanese Hydrographic Survey, I, 255.
Jars, 2, 119, 120, figs.
Jarves, J. J., quoted, 1, 270. '
Jimmu Tenno, tomb of, 2, 294.
Jinrikisha men, poUteness, l, 33, 44; speed,
68, 137, 140, 322; row with, 108; drink
ing tea, 109; tattooing among, 124; in
Kobe, 2, 129, 130; cause a tumble, 296.
Jinrikishas, I, 4, fig., 6, fig., 6, fig., 22, 34,
105, fig., 244, fig.; 2, 129; of Kagoshima,
161, fig.; pleasures of, 183.
Jokes, practical, I, 411.
Jugglers, 1, 341, 342, fig., 392, 393, fig.
Jujitsu, 2, 218.
Junks, I, 238, fig., 422-44, figs.; 2, 131, fig.;
148, figs., 149.
Kabutoyama, caves of, 2, 319, 323.
Kaempfer, Dr., I, 127.
Kaga Yashiki, I, 14, 15; author's residence
in, 256, fig., 257; gateway and entrance,
316, 338, fig.; changes in, after three years,
209.
Kago traveling, I, 81, 84, figs.; 2, 239, 240,
242, 243, fig.
Kagoshraia, 2, 151, 161, 162; to Shimabara
Gulf, 164.

446

INDEX

Kagoshima Bay, 2, 148, 150, 163, fig.
Kaimondake, 2, 152, fig.
Kakemono, bands of, 2, 371, 372.
Kamakotan, 2, 6, fig.
Kamidana, I, 121, 168, fig.
Kanzashi, 2, 412, 413, figs.
Kashiwagi, Mr., 2, 362-65, 371.
Kato, Dr., Director of University, I, 281,
365, 427, 429, 430.
Kawagoe, 2, 319, 323-25.
Kawazu, Mr., 2, 427-30.
Kibigaku, I, 398.
Kichizayemon, 2, 298.
Kii, 2, 287, 288.
Kikkawa, Mr., 2, 222-24, 269.
Kikuchi, Professor, 1, 386; 2, 427-30.
Kindergarten, a, 2, 235.
Kindling, I, 49.
Kissing in pubUc, I, 99, 297, 298.
Kitakami River, saU down, 2, 60-67, figs.
Kitehen, the, 1, 207, fig. ; of inn, 2, 35, figs., 36.
Kitchen-midden, a, l, 287-89, 301, 308,
362, 353, 386; 2, 82, 102.
Kite-flying, 2, 142, fig., 390, 391, figs., 399.
Kitei's pottery, 2, 301.
Kites, 2, 81, 87, figs., 96-98, figs., 176, 179,
fig., 389-91, figs.
Kite-shop, 2, 388-90, fig.
Knots, I, 203; 2, 120, fig.
Knox, Mr., l, 178.
Kobe, 2, 129-32, figs., 180; saU to, 2, 279,
280.
Kodankai, 2, 426-29.
Kohitsu, Mr., 2, 392, fig., 416; genealogy,
398.
Komagatake, 1, 421 ; 2, 41, fig., 44, 45, fig.
Korea, 2, 281.
Korean, language, 2, 328; pottery, 328.
Koreans, 2, 220, 281, 282, 296-98, figs., 327-
29, 353.
Korigawa, 2, 181.
Korschelt, Mr., I, 159.
Koto player, 2, 121, fig.
Kumamoto, 2, 164, 165, 173.
Kura, I, 178, fig.
Kuroda, Prince, 2, 381, 396.
Kyoto, 2, 183; trip to, 239-56; artistic centre
of Japan, 268-60.
Laboratory, at Enoshima,, 1, 139, 144, 160,
173-75, fig., 178, fig.; building and equii>-
ping, 180, fig., 181; interior, 209, fig.; of
the University, 319, fig.; at Hakodate,
419, 420, 426, fig.; 2, 46, fig.; at Otaru,
I, 438, 439, figs.; at Nagasaki, 2, 137.
Laborers, 1, 346, fig., 347, 380; of the author,
352, fig. ; sitting cross-legged, 2, 179, fig.
Laboring classes, characteristics of, 1, 126.

Lacquer trees, 2, 54, fig.
Lacquer-work, 1, 258-62, figs., 287, fig., 305,
fig., 306, fig., 329.
Ladders, I, 132, fig. ; 2, 101, 102, fig.
Lady, smoking, 2, 74, fig., sketch of, 78, 79,
fig.
Lanterns, paper, I, 122, fig., 123, fig.; at
fires, 134; 2, 38, fig.; stone, I, 151, fig.;
2, 75, fig., 275, fig.; temple, 1, 170, 171,
fig.; in procession, 2, 72, 73; for festival
of the dead, 195, fig.
Latrines, 1, 78, fig.
Lectures, 1, 283-85, 315, 359, 385, 386; pub
Uc, 413-16; on Evolution, 339, 340, fig.;
at Nobles' School, 2, 202, 204; at Mr.
Fukugawa's school, 205; for shipwrecked
fishermen, 209 ; under the auspices of the
Biological Society, 219; before Fish Com
mission, 227; announcement of, 324, fig.;
at Mr. Okuma's school, 394; at Univer
sity, 395; pubUc, in Japan, 426-30.
Leeches, I, 87.
Le Gendre, General, 1, 362.
Leland, Professor, i, 402.
Letter of student to author, I, 22J, 222.
Letters, l, 219; 2, 305, fig.
Lighting of fire, I, 186.
Lighting of rooms, I, 183.
Idngula anati-na, 2, 144.
Lips, held apart, I, 110.
Lookouts, 2, 17, fig.
Lotus, I, 136, fig.
Lower classes, conduct of, I, 374.
Loyalty to members of own province, 2, 417,
418.
Lumber yards, I, 119.
Lyman, Dr. Benjamin Smith, 2, 121, 167.
Macaroni, 2, 83, fig.
Machida, Mr., 2, 353.
Magatama, 2, 366, fig.
Magnum, Mr., 2, 178.
MaU, I, 63, fig., 208, 209; 2, 180, 181.
Mairokushi, 2, 426.
MaUory, Colonel Garrick, I, 166 re.
Man-drawn carts, I, 9, fig.
Mangosteen, 1, 198, fig.
Manure, for fertUizing, I, 10, fig., 23, 24;
from the street, disposal of, 153, fig.
Map, a relief, 2, 203.
Markets, I, 34-37, figs., 300; 2, 79, fig.
Marriage, I, 314, 315.
Married women, teeth blackened, 1, 110.
Masks, 1, 385, fig.
Masseurs, I, 20, 67, 219, 220.
Mats, for beans, I, 37, fig.; floor, 67, 62, 63,
fig.; for lugging dirt, 117, fig., 346, fig.,
346, 389; of glass rods, 143, fig.

INDEX

447

Matsumura, Mr., 1. 176, 184, 190, fig., 191,
212, 229; sketch of child by, 224, fig.
Matsura, Mr., I, 352, 360, 361; death and
funeral, 408-10, figs. ; epitaph, 2, 404, fig.,
406.
Matsura Takashiro, Mr., 2, 366.
Matsuri carts, I, 298, 299, figs.
Matsushima, 2, 70.
Measures, 2, 179, figs.
Medical CoUege, 2, 221.
Medical practice, I, 40.
Medicine, Chinese, 2, 426.
Medicine peddler, l, 348, 349.
Melon booths, 2, 54, 56, fig.
Men and women, distinctions between, i,
114.
MendenhaU, Professor, I, 402.
Mercury, transit of, I, 374.
Microscope, exhibiting a, I, 235.
Mills, I, 55, fig.
Missionaries, 2, 134, 135.
Misu, Mr., 2, 268, 271.
Mitsui's sUk store, 2, 116-18, figs.
Miyajima, 2, 266, 274-77.
Miyaoka, Mr., i, 388; 2, 210, 211, 219, 221,
306, 337.
Moat, Castle, 1, 13, 136, 328, fig., 329 ; 2, 102.
Mochi, 2, 95, figs., 96, fig.
Models of mines, bridges, etc., i, 149, fig.
Modesty and immodesty, I, 97-101.
Mogi, 2, 139, 141, figs., 142, figs.
MoUusks, I, 36.
Mon, X, 411.
Money-brokers, I, 349.
Monkeys, I, 267, 332.
MonoUths, I, 382, fig.
Monument, a, I, 428, fig.
Monuments to the god of mercy to horses,
X, 64, fig.
Mori, 2, 40.
Morioka, 2, 58.
Mororan, 2, 32, 33, fig., 36, 38, 40, figs.
Mortar, Ainu, 2, 28, fig.
Mortuary caves, 2, 174.
Mosquito netting, x, 67, 199.
Mosquitoes, x, 160, 199; 2, 346.
Mototarumizu, 2, 165.
Mottoes, in taverns, I, 54, 103; 2, 244; can
dy, 393, fig., 394.
Mountain peaks, x, 82, fig.
Mountain viUage, a, I, 69-71.
Mountains, names of, X, 213, 214; drawing,
215, 216, fig.; traveUng among, 2, 41-43,
48, 49.
Murders, 2, 426.
Murray, Dr. David, 1, 13-15, 180, 181, 365-
67.
Museum of Natural History, 1, 145, 245.

Music, I, 116, 296, 296, 302, 369, 360, 380,
391, 392, fig., 398-402, figs. ; 2, 99, 224-26;
343, 344, 394, 395, 407, 408.
Music girls, x, 391, fig.
Musicians, and musical instruments, x, 291,
292, fig., 301, 302, fig., 399, 400, figs.;
2, 121, 122, figs., 394, fig., 395, fig.; itiner
ant, X, 333, fig.
Mustache sticks, 2, 2.
Nagasaki, approach to, 2, 135, 136, figs.;
harbor, 136-38; streets, 138, 152) people,
138; return to, 177, 178.
Nagoya, 2, 246-54; castle of, 254, fig., 256.
Nakedness, I, 97-101.
Namboo Fuji, 2, 59, 63, fig.
Names, of boys and girls, X, 213; of moun
tains, 213, 214; of dogs, 214; of horses,
214; of rivers, 214; of wrestlers, 214, 215;
of boats, 215 ; ot certain parts ot the body,
2, 78; of signs of zodiac, 228; of points of
compass, 228; personal, 307, 308, 403.
Nantaisan (Nantai),!, 86; ascent ot, 89-93,
figs. ; on the summit of, 93, figs. ; descent of,
94-104, figs.
Nara, 2, 182, 294, 295.
Nature, knowledge of, 2, 206 ; love of, 416.
Nature and art, x, 262, 263.
Naval CoUege Exhibit, I, 264.
Neck, name of, 2, 78.
Negishi, Mr., author entertained at the
home of, 2, 319-22.
Nets, X, 113, 114, fig.; 2, 66, fig.; method of
hauUng, i, 216, 217, fig.; Ainu scoop, 2,
377, fig.; hawkers', 384, fig.; for catching
falcons, 385-87, figs.
New Year's Day, 2, 91-96, figs.
New Year's decorations, 2, 90, 91, figs.
Newsmen, I, 380, fig.
Newspaper article, x, 363, fig., 376, 377, fig.;
2, 111, fig.
Newspaper cut, 2, 114, fig.
Newspaper office, description of, 2, 110-16,
figs.
Nicknames, I, 361.
Night, an uncomfortable, I, 239, 240.
Nightgowns, I, 87.
Night-lamps, x, 57, fig.
Night noises, x, 161.
Nikko, trip to, x, 45-66; temples, 69-76,
figs.; height, 81.
Ninagawa Noritani, 2, 106, 107, 190, 414,
415; obsequies of, 356-60, figs.; ms. vol
umes ot, 405.
Nishi, Mr., 2, 427-30.
Nishikawa Rokubei, 2, 397, fig.
Nobles' School, 2, 202-04.
Nomagasaki, 2, 146, fig.

448

INDEX

Nowata, inn at, 1, 109; pronunciation of,
110.
Numa, Mr., 2, 428, 430.
Nursing, I, 8, 27, 40, 60, 95, 176, fig., 262.
Oars, I, 2, fig.
Oaths, X, 39, 264.
Offerings, to the dead Shogun, I, 293, fig. ;
to the dead, 2, 46.
Okamui, x, 433, fig., 452, fig.
Okubo, Count, assassination of, I, 376-79.
Okuma, Mr., school and summer house, 2,
394, 396; city house, 396.
Omnibuses, I, 137.
Omori, kitchen-midden at, I, 287-89, 301,
308, 362-54, 386; 2, 82, 102.
Ono, Mr., 2, 429, 430.
Onomura, 2, 166, 167.
Onsendake, 2, 175, fig.
"Opening of the River," I, 129-31, fig.
Orange-holders, 2, 86, fig.
Oranges, 2, 85, 86, figs.
Orchestra, x, 30, 399, fig., 407; 2, 99. See
Musicians.
Osaka, 2, 190, 195-98, figs., 302.
Otaru, boat voyage to, x, 431-34, figs. ; facul
ties furnished author at, 436 ; harbor and
shore, 436, figs. ; appearance of people at,
436, 437; Ainus at, 2, 1-4, figs.; view of,
through a tunnel, 5, fig.; journey from,
to Sapporo, 4-9, figs.
Otsu, 2, 256.
Ouchi, Mr., 2, 428, 430.
Outdoor bakery, i, 350, 351, fig.
Ox-teams, 2, 130.
Pack-buUs, X, 61.
Pack-horses, x, 153, fig.
Packing, 2, 346.
Pack-saddle, 2, 240, fig.
Padlock, 2, 295, fig.
Palanquins, I, 81, 84, figs.
Pantomime, X, 273, 274, fig., 298.
Paper, composition of, x, 156.
Paper lanterns, I, 122, fig., 123, fig.
Paper-poUshing, X, 373, 374, fig.
Parsons, Professor, I, 362.
Passports, I, 118, 119.
Paste, 2, 84, fig.
Peaches, x, 37, 118, 228.
Pearl-shell cutting, 2, 344, fig.
Pears, x, 37, 198; displayed in tubs, 300, fig.
Pease porridge hot, x, 368, 369, fig.
Peddlers, l, 119, 206, 207, fig.; cries of, 206,
326; of candy, 326-28, fig.; medicine, 348,
349.
Phosphorescence, 2, 150, 151.
Physical individuaUty, 1, 43.

Physical science, teaching of, 2, 431-33.
Pictures, x, 160, 237.
Pigeons, I, 126.
PUe-driver, I, 3, 4, fig. ; 2, 282, 283, fig.
PUgrims, x, 106, 106, 170, fig., 176, fig., 177,,
192; 2, 246; in boat, I, 205, 206, fig.;:
sketching eagle, 254.
PiUows, X, 8, 67, 62, figs., 161, 176, fig., 189,
fig., 237, 238, fig.
Pincers, 2, 179, fig.
Pines, dwarf, x, 248, 249, fig. ; 2, 104, fig.
Pipes, I, 7, fig. ; 2, 296, 373, fig.
Pistols, X, 111, 112.
Plane, carpenter's, I, 373, fig.
Plant-stands, 1, 124, fig., 304, fig.
Plants, X, 11, 383, 384.
Play. See Theatrical performances.
Ploughs, 2, 138, fig., 161, fig.; Ku, 288, fig.;
varieties of, 331, 332, figs.
Plum trees, 2, 103, 104, fig.
Plums, X, 198.
Poem, man reciting, X, 106.
Poles, telegraph, x, 60 ; 2, 54, fig. ; and poling,
I, 101, 102, fig., 112, fig., 113, fig., 114,
fig. ; as guides in snow, 2, 50.
Politeness, x, 8, 19, 28, 33, 44, 100, 117, 131,
194, 195, 251, 386; 2, 66, 57, 73, 138, 347.
Pomegranate flower, x, 50, 66.
Pond, 2, 382, 383, fig.
Poorhouse, x, 360.
Postmaster, I, 167, fig.
Post-office, I, 167, fig.
Posts, I, 77, fig.
Potato shops, i, 278.
Potatoes, X, 198; cleansing, 265, fig., 278.
Potteries, at Kyoto, 2, 184-91, figs., 193,
figs.; Tada, 269, 270; Imado, 354.
Pottery, unglazed, I, 294, fig., 308-11, figs.;
prehistoric, 334; Omori, 353, 364, figs.;
art hand-work, 2, 104, 105, figs.; jars, 119,
120, figs.; old, curious objects of, 156,
figs. ; bowl with arrow design, 167, fig. ; in
cave at Onomura, 169-72; for foreign
trade, 186-87, fig.; scarce, after three
years, 210; unglazed, lathe-turned, Ya
mato, 294; Korean, 328; in early times,
376.
Pottery, Rokubei's, 2, 298, fig.; the Raku,
298-300, fig.; Yeiraku's, 300; Zoroku's,
300, 301; Kitei's, 301.
Pottery party, 2, 399, 400, fig.
Practical jokes, x, 411.
Prairie, 2, 49.
Prayer casket, I, 269, fig.
Praying-posts, I, 429, fig.
Presents, I, 394, 395, fig.; 2, 94, fig.
Pride, sign to indicate, 2, 282.
Priest, a sleepy, 2, 69.

INDEX

449

Priests, 1, 292, figs., 293.
Procession, a, 2, 72, 73.
Prompter, X, 30.
Proof and proof-reading, 2, 114, fig., 115.
Protective coloring, x, 80.
Proverbs, 2, 227, 228.
Public baths, I, 97-101, fig.
PubUc story-teUers, x, 200, fig., 201.
Pumps, sprinkling, x, 163, fig.
Punctuation, 2, 305.
Queue, the, 1, 397, fig., 398; 2, 36, 65, fig.,
416, 416.
Quivers and arrows, Ainu, 2, 27, fig.
Racks for carrying grain or grass, I, 66, fig.
Raku pottery, 2, 298-300, fig.
Bamrna, 2, 241 n.
Rapper of story-teUer, x, 231, 232, fig.
Raspberries, x, 71.
Reading, Japanese manner of, x , 147 ; 2, 351 ;
ot Chinese classics, X, 183 ; by chUd, 426.
Reception at tea-house, 2, 379, 380.
Reeling silk, x, 250.
ReUcs, temple, 1, 126.
ReUgious beUef, 2, 413, 414.
Resonators, x, 231, fig.
Restaurants, x, 279.
Retirement, occupation after, 2, 316.
Reverse customs, x, 25, 221, 373, fig.
Revolting forms of edilales, x, 257, fig., 258.
See Food.
Rice, varieties of, I, 68; manner of serving
and eating, 142; at festival, 202, 203.
Rice dust, 2, 238.
Rice exchange, 2, 302, 303.
Rice-fields, x, 9, 10, fig., 11, 46, fig., 50, fig.,
68, 116, 367; 2, 61, fig.
Rice-pounding, 1, 66, fig. ; 2, 238, figs.
Ridge-poles, 1, 64, 66, fig., 116, 119, 182, fig. ;
2, 53, fig., 258. See Roofs.
Riverbanks, protecting, with bamboo, I,
113.
River travel, 2, 60-67, figs.
Rivers, names of, X, 214. '
Road experience, 2, 77.
Roads, I, 47, 68, 82.
Rokubei's pottery, 2, 298, fig., 397.
Roofs, X, 61, 64, 66, fig., 109. 182, fig.; 2, 53,
fig.; of Ainu houses, 23, figs., 33; treat
ment of Izumi, 286; tha,tched, 294, fig.,
308; city, 371.
Rooms, I, 77, 78, fig., 107, fig., 187-89, figs.,
f 317, fig., 330, 360, 361; 2, 220, fig., 221,
339, fig., 363, fig., 364.
Root in front of drinking-booth, X, 124, fig.
Rope, X, 203.
Rudder, x, 423, fig.

Saddle bags, I, 424, fig.
Saddles, 1, 424, fig., 425, fig.
Saigo, General, I, 382.
SaUs, I, 113, 225, fig., 226; 2, 63, fig.
Sakanoshita, 2, 256.
Sak6, X, 38; cup, 38, fig.; measure and tub,
2, 179, fig.; drinking, 316.
Sakurajima, 2, 151, fig.
Sakurajima yama, 2, 161, fig.
Salt, 2, 311.
Salt-water carriers, X, 36.
Salutations, Ainu, 2, 29.
Samisen and player, x, 391, fig.; 2, 121, 122,
fig., 376, fig.
Sammaibashi, 2, 239.
Samurai, x, 214, 303, 312, 313, 330, 363; 2,
370; lower and upper, x, 314.
Sand artists, x, 346, fig., 347.
Sandals, x, 3, fig., 8.
Sanitation, I, 23.
Sanrju-san-gen-.do, 2, 332-34, fig.
Sankishi, Kosaka, 2, 226, figs.
Sapparo, journey from Otaru to, 2, 4-9, figs. ;
streets, 9; coUege, 9; vessels and frag
ments, 9, 10, fig.; farm, 10; mountains
near, 11, figs.; journey to Hakodate from,
13-43, figs.
Sarcophagus, 2, 168, fig.
Sasaki, Mr., I, 362; 2, 42.
Satsuma, 2, 146-48, figs., 163, fig.
Satsuma bottle, 2, 160, fig.
Saws, X, 412.
Scene, theatrical, I, 405, fig.
School, an artist's, 2, 261, fig.
School apparatus, exhibit of, X, 265.
School-chUdren, x, 362.
School-houses, x, 47, 48, fig., 124.
Schools, X, 124.
Scoop net, Ainu, 2, 377, fig.
Screens, x, 108, 109, 156, fig.
Scribes, I, 139, fig.
Scrubbing, i, 51.
ScuUing, I, 1, 2.
Scythes, X, 383, fig.
Seals, I, 266, fig., 324, fig.
Sea-sickness, word for, 2, 341.
Seaweed, as food, x, 88; gathering, 2, 5, 6,
fig.
Sendai, 2, 70.
Servants, x, 407, 408; attitudes, 2, 37, fig.;
devotion of, 393.
Service, a, 2, 93, fig.
Sewing machines, I, 33.
Shark, chasing a, I, 225.
Shaving, the head, I, 10, 22, 199, fig., 201,
fig., 372, 398; 2, 138, fig., the face, x, 53,
230, 231.
SheU, pearl, attached to box, 2, 262, fig.

450

INDEX

SheU-heap, result of coast upheaval, 2, 155.
SheU-heaps. See Kitchen-midden.
SheUs, X, 85; coUecting, 101; 2, 137, 138;
screens made of , i, 108 ; roof covered with,
109; at Enoshima, 141, 205, 209; as re
sonators, 231, fig.; at Yezo, 427, 428;
snail, 2, 28; differences, 82.
SheU-work, I, 157, figs.
Shelter, hawkers', 2, 387, fig.
Shimabara, 2, 175-77.
Shimabara Gulf, Kagoshima to, 2, 164.
Shimaji, Mr., 2, 428, 430.
Shimonoseki, 2, 133, fig., 179, 180.
Shimonoseki, Straits of, 2, 133, fig., 179.
Shin, name of, 2, 78.
Shingles, I, 61.
Shinto, shrines, i, 121, 168, fig.; faith, com
munion of, 290-95, figs.; burial, 408-10,
figs.
Shirakawa, 2, 71, 72.
Shirako, 2, 319.
Shiraoi, 2, 22, fig.
Shizuoka, 2, 246.
Sho, the, X, 291, fig., 399, figs.
Shoe and umbreUa shop, X, 344, fig.
Shoe closet, 2, 392, fig.
Shoemaker, Chinese, I, 286, fig.
Shogun, offerings to the dead, I, 293, fig.;
the days of the, 376.
Shop signs, x, 296, 322-26, figs., 374; 2, 48,
fig., 83, fig., 84, fig.
Shops, I, 6-8, fig., 78, 128; 2, 116-19, figs.;
by ni^t, X, 135.
Shorin, X, 329, 330.
Shovels, I, 307, fig.; 2, 326, fig., 332, fig.
Show cases, making, x, 375.
Shrines, I, 11, 47-49, 92, figs., 93; house
hold, 121, 168, fig., 229, fig.; erected
near striking natural features, 165; cave,
165, fig., 166; pUgrimages to, 170, fig.;
Ainu, 2, 33, fig.; in stores. 118, fig., 119;
stone, 142, fig.; picturesque, 175. See
Temples.
Sidewalks, 2, 414.
Signs, inn, X, 140; shop, 296, 322-25, figs.,
374; 2, 48, fig., 83, fig., 84, fig.; names of
institutions, x, 412.
SUk, reeling, I, 250.
Silk store, a famous, 2, 116-18, figs.
Silkworm eggs, cards of, x, 109, fig., 110.
Silver bronze, a, I, 255, fig.
Singers, outfit of, I, 231, 232, fig.; with or
chestra, 400, 401.
Singing, I, 115, 380; lesson in, 2, 401, 402,
fig., 406. See Chanty.
Singing workmen. See Chanty.
Sinks, 1, 96, fig., 227, fig.
Sitting, Japanese method of, I, 27, 60.

Slate, substitute for, 2, 411, fig.
Sleeper, method of waking, 2, 416.
Sleeping, 1, 67, 62, fig., 78, 161, 230; 2, 67, ,
fig.
Sleight-of-hand, I, 392, 393, fig.
Slums, 2, 370.
SmaUpox, x, 21, 39, 219; sign to ward off,
118.
Smoking, X, 7; 2, 62, fig., 74, fig.
Smoothing and ironing, 2, 368.
Snails, hunting for, 2, 11-13; speed of move
ment of, 194, 196.
SnaUsheUs, 2, 28.
Sneezing, 2, 312.
Snow in Tokyo, 2, 101, 405, 406.
Snow shovels, 2, 101, fig.
Societies, student, x, 361.
Social customs, x, 313-15.
Sode-gaki, 2. 366-68, fig.
SoU, fertiUzing, x, 10, fig., 23, 24.
Soldiers, I, 232.
Soup, X, 88, 142, 387; 2, 396.
Souvenirs, I, 78, 79, fig., 156, 167, fig.
Soya beans, preparation from, 2, 287, figs.
Specimens, transference to Tokyo, x, 244,
fig., 245.
Spiders and spider-webs, X, 80, 81, figs.
Spinning-wheels, x, 50.
Sprinkling, pump used tor, I, 153, fig.
Stable, 2, 166, fig.
Stacks, straw, 2, 283, fig.
Stage, theatre, x, 28-30, figs.; 2, 99.
Stage-ride to Nikko, X, 45-56.
Stages, outdoor, X, 301, 302, fig.
Stamps for coUection, X, 150.
Standards of fire companies, 1, 133, 134,
fig., 357, 358, fig.
Stands for plants, X, 124, fig.
Steam launch, X, 426, 427, fig.
Steamboat trip, from Yokohama to Hako
date, I, 416; from Hakodate to Otaru,
431-34, figs.
Steamer, 2, 47, fig.
Stflts, 2, 81, fig.
Stockings, I, 8.
Stomachs, Japanese, 2, 354.
Stone-arclied bridges, 2, 162, fig., 178, fig.
Stone images, I, 428, 429, fig.
Stone lanterns, 1, 161; 2, 75, fig., 275, fig
Stone shrines, 2, 142, fig.
Stone waUs, 2, 139, fig.
Stone yards, I, 119.
Storehouses, Ainu, 2, 27, 28, figs.
Stores, 2, 116-19, figs.
Story-teUers, pubUc, x, 200, fig., 201; outfit
of, 231, 232, fig.; professional, 2, 374, 375.
Stoves, charcoal, 2, 339, fig.
Strainer, bamboo, 2, 276, fig.

INDEX

451

straw, articles made of, 2, 90, 91, figs.
Strawberries, I, 66.
Street cries, x, 21.
Street fights, 2, 370, 371.
Street jugglers, x, 341, 342, fig.
Street^names, X, 121, 150, 383, fig.
Street-repairing, 2, 125.
Street scenes in Tokyo, I, 262-64, 343-51,
figs.
Street sweepers, I, 163, fig.
Street traffic, x, 137.
Street-watering, x, 24, fig.
Streets, how laid out, x, 150, fig.; appear
ance of, 2, 414.
Student sorting specimens, X, 302, fig.
Students, x, 157-69, 183, 210; ambitious,
221; plajfing cards, 236; rooms, 360, 361;
societies, 361; life, 362; their method of
wearing the hair, 398; 2, 416; their daUy
schedule, 361, 352; ingenuity of, 431-33.
Sugi, Mr., 2, 426-27, 429, 430.
Sumida River, I, 129.
Sundays, x, 31, 177.
Sunstroke, I, 24.
Superstitions, 2, 228, 229, 308-16, 369.
SwaUows' nests, I, 50, 51, fig., 106; 2, 258,
fig.
Swearing, X, 39, 264.
Sweet potatoes. See Potatoes.
Sword-maker, 2, 408, fig.
Swords, old, 2, 222, 223.
Syringe for preparing tokoroten, I, 88, fig.
Tablets, lacquered, x, 258-62, figs., 287, fig.
Tag worn by chUdren, 2, 412, fig.
Takahashi, 2, 143, 144, figs.
Takahashi River, 2, 164, 174.
Takamine, Mr., I, 384; 2, 30, 31, 354, 356.
Takamine, Mrs., 2, 212.
Takenaka, Mr., 2, 324.
Tanada, Mr., 2, 131.
Tanaka, Mr., I, 365.
Tangerines, 2, 85, 86, figs.
Tanimura, Mr., 2, 399.
Tanks, I, 102, 103, fig.
Tannery, 2, 291, fig.
Targets, x, 123.
Tarumae, 2, 19, fig.
Taste ot Japanese, I, 54, 67.
Tattooing, i, 124, 125.
Tea, as mark of hospitality, I, 7; growing,
11; firing, 25-27; for export, 26; for home
consumption, 27 ; how drunk, 52 ; drunk on
aU occasions, 192; method of making, 218,
219.
Tea ceremony, a, 2, 248-64, figs., 344, 392.
Teacups, 2, 167, fig.
Tearfiring buUdings, I, 25-27.

Tea-house, dinner entertainment at, I, 389-
93, figs.; reception at, 2, 379, 380.
Tea-houses, I, 66, 67, 141, 145, 146, 279.
Tearplaces, x, 151, 162, fig.
Tea-scoops, 2, 219, fig.
Teeth, of the Japanese, x , 40 ; of married wo
men, blackened, 110, 285; names of, 2,
78 ; in cremation, 338 ; blackening, the pro
cess, 339, 340, fig.
Telegraph poles, I, 60; 2, 54, fig.
Temperance of Japanese, I, 38.
Temple, leading to Nantai, I, 89, 90; in
Asdk-usa, Tokyo, 125-28, 266, 267, 269;
in Enoshima, relics in, 246, 247; service in,
289-95, figs. ; plan of, 292, fig. ; people en
tering, 2, 46; at Miyajima, 275; at Ka
wagoe, 326.
Temple lantern, 1, 170, 171, fig.
Temple tokens, 2, 412, fig.
Temples, x, 47; Nikko, 69-76, figs.; fairs
near, 2, 89. See Shrines.
Terraces, 2, 140.
Thatched roots, I, 61, 64, 65, fig.
Theatres, I, 27-30, figs., 402-04, fig.; 2, 99,
100, fig.
Theatrical performances, x, 241, 242, 404^
07, figs.
Ticket of admission to lecture, 2, 219, fig.
TUes, 2, 306.
Tobacco, I, 7.
Toes, names of, 2, 78.
Tokonoma, 2, 394.
Tokoroten, I, 88.
Tokyo, the name, 1,11, 86; arrival at, 12;
sights of, 12, 31, 32; building-methods in,
12, 13; Dr. Murray's office, 13; -yashiki,
14; Imperial University at, 15; the wrest
lers at, 16-19; alone in, 19; glaciated
boulders at, 20; street-watering in, 24;
the Imperial Museum in, 31; jinrikishas
in, 34; departure from, 46; temple in
Osakusa, 125-28, 266, 267, 269; industrial
art museum at, 149; picturesque points
of, 233; sights in, 262-64, 343-61, figs.;
view ot, 279, 280, 335, fig.; the foreigner
and, 375; snow in, 2, 101; health condi
tions ot, 2, 426.
Tokyo Athletic Club, x, 320, 321, fig.
Tokyo Female Normal School, 2, 236-37.
Tokyo Normal School, 2, 431.
Toleration for eccentricities of dress or be
havior, X, 274, 275.
Tomatoes, x, 37, 198.
Tomb of Jimmu Tenno, 2, 294.
Tombs, I, 72-76, figs.
Tomokomae, 2, 15-19, figs.
Tonegawa River, a trip down, I, 110-16,

452

INDEX

Toothbrushes, x, 146, fig.
Toothpick holders, x, 396, 397, fig.
Tops, X, 167, fig.; 2, 81, fig., 87.
TorU, 1, 48, 49, 90, fig.; 2, 290, fig.
Tortoise-sheU, 2, 179, figa.
Towing, 2, 67, fig.
Toyama, Professor, I, 15, 162, 175, 176,
• 190, fig., 212, 219, 314, 388; 2, 427-30.
Toyohachi, 2, 246.
Toys, I, 156, 157, fig.; mechanical, 2, 79-
81.
Trains, X, 11.
Translating inscriptions, 2, 82, 83, fig.
Transplanting trees, x, 347.
Traveling by night, 1, 196.
Trays for offerings, 1, 293, fig., 294, fig.
Tread-wheel, I, 46, fig., 116.
Trees, I, 58, 59, figs., 117, 337, fig. ; dwarfing,
126 ; transplanting, 347 ; 2, 84, fig. ; lacquer,
64, fig.; picturesque, 175, fig.; camphor,
176, fig.
Tricks, I, 366, 392, 393, 411; 2, 158, 159.
Trolling, 2, 419, fig.
Trumpets, X, 157, fig.
Tsugaru Straits, I, 431.
Tsuji, Mr., 2, 429, 430.
Tubs, X, 270.
Turtles, 2, 302, fig.
Twine, x, 203.
Type and type-setting, 2, 110-15, figs.
Typhoon, a, I, 171, 172, 174, fig., 175, fig.,
178, 192, 354, 355.
UmbreUa and shoe shop, x, 344, fig.
UmbreUas, X, 236, fig.
Undercutting, 2, 32, fig., 40, fig.
University. See Imperial University.
Upraised beach, 2, 155.
Usuyama, 2, 40, fig.
Utsunomiya, X, 56; 2, 74.
Uyeno Park, Tokyo, x, 248, 289.
Vaccination, I, 21; 39.
Vegetables, I, 36, 37, 197, 198; cleansing,
266, fig.
Venders, street, I, 21.
Vessels, Japanese, 423, fig., 424.
VUlage, Ainu, 2, 22, fig., 29.
Violets, name for, 2, 340.
Violin and koto, 2, 212, 213.
Visiting cards, 2, 327, fig.
Volumes, designations of, 2, 228.
Wakanoura, 2, 289.
Wakayama, 2, 287-93.
Wall-paper designs, X, 155, 156, fig.
WaUs, stone, 2, 139, fig.

War prints, I, 269.
Wash sinks, X 227.
Watchmen, private, I, 20.
Water, lack of, in houses, I, 96; salt and
fresh, 220.
Water-carriers, I, 25, 36.
Water-wheel, used astread-wheel, X,46, fig.,
116; for irrigation, 2, 284, fig.
Watering of streets, I, 24, fig.
Watermelons, x, 197.
Wax, vegetable, manufacture of, 2, 52, 63,
fig.
Wax figures, x, 267.
Weapons, Ainu, 2, 26, fig., 27, fig.
Weather-vane, 2, 234, fig.
Weavmg, X, 60; 2, 242, fig.
Webs, spider, x, 80, 81, figs.
Weeder, 2, 285, fig.
WeUs, I, 8; 2, 277, 278.
WeU-sweeps, x, 60; 2, 155, fig., 162, 181,
283, 284, fig.
Wertheimber, Mr., x, 178.
WUliams, Dr. S. WeUs, I, 166 re.
WUson, Professor, X, 15; his son, 17, 18.
Windlass, 2, 18, fig.
Windows, I, 67, fig.
Winnowing-fans, 2, 69, fig.
Women, and men, distinctions between, I,
114; inferior position of, in Japan, 282,
283.
Wood, for fire, X, 343.
Wood engravers, I, 265, 266, fig.
Wood-turners, l, 266, fig.
Wooden sounding-devices, x, 425, fig.
Woodwork, X, 78, 251, 252, figs., 305, 306,
fig.;2, 68, figs.
Woolen fabrics, Japanese wonder at, I,
168.
Work, cheapness of, I, 379.
Workmanship, fideUty in, 2, 408-10.
Workmen. See Laborers.
Workroom and workmen, x, 190, 191, fig.
Worms, procession of, 2, 226, 227, figs.
Wrestlers, I, 16-19, figs., 268; names of,
214, 215.
Writing, Japanese method of, X, 173.
Writing and marking devices, 2, 410, fig.,
411.
Writing material, 2, 410.
Writing-paper, 2, 194, 410.
Yagi, 2, 294.
Yamato, 2, 294, 296.
Yashiki, I, 14, 375.
Yatabe, Professor, I, 139, 352.
Yataie, 2, 4-10, fig., 411.
Yatsushiro, 2, 166.
Yedo. See Tokyo.

INDEX

453

Yedo, Bay of, islands in, I, 19; map, 162,
fig.
Yeuraku's pottery, 2, 300.
Yezo, I, 416; 2, 48, figa.
Yokkaichi, 2, 255, 266.
Yokohama, landing at, X, 1, 2; firstmoming
in, 3; workmen in, 3, 4; first impressions
of wandering through, 4; market in, 34;

Japanese and Chinese at, 147-49; ground
laid out in rows of squares, 150.
Yumoto, X, 94r-96, 101, 102, fig.
Zodiac, signs of, names, 2, 228.
ZoSlogical Laboratory, x 319, fig.
Zoological Museum, 2, 211.
Zoroku's pottery, 2, 300, 301.

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