UNIVERSITY OF MASSACHUSETTS LIBRARY F 44 E9P4 CARD DATE DUE ^m 3 i W \ : ^^^c ^rf 1 GAYLORD PRINTED IN U.S.A. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from Boston Library Consortium IVIember Libraries http://www.archive.org/details/exeterin1830note1903perr ^ /i:yytA^ 3 THE NEWS-LETTER PRESS EXETER, NEW HAMPSHIRE PREFACE The descriptions of Old Exeter , embodied in these pages, are taken from occasional papers read before clubs and from notes made during the last years of Dr. Perry^s life. Blessed with a memory of remarkable tenacity and accuracy, he was at the time of his death the only resident of the town to whom most of the facts here recalled were known. It seems desirable that these records of conditions long since passed away be preserved for the benefit of posterity. This little book may also serve as a me- morial of the gentle, modest life of a citizen of Exeter who spent three score years and more in effective service of his fellow men. TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE Introduction . vii Town and Meeting House 1 Hemlock Side 13 The Gaerison House 22 Front Street in 1830 ....... 30 The Academy in the Thirties 69 Outdoor Parties . . 79 College Expenses 80 Colored Folk of Old Exeter 82 Abolitionists of Exeter 86 The Public Schools in 1850 . . . . .92 Commercial and Domestic Life 99 INTRODUCTION DR. WILLIAM OILMAN PERRY, the author of the accompanying sketches, was born in Exeter on the 21st of July, 1823, and died on the 2d of August, 1910. His father was Dr. William Perry, and his mother a daughter of Colonel Nathaniel Oilman and niece of Governor John Taylor Oilman. His life was spent mostly in his native town. In his boyhood he attended one or two private schools, taught for short seasons by recent graduates of the Academy, and for a while was at school in Bradford, Hving with his uncle. He entered the Academy when ten years of age, was fitted for college and graduated at Dartmouth, a fair scholar, in 1842. During all these years he showed the same character- istics that marked his later life. He was thoroughly good-hearted, amiable, and generous. He dehghted in our sports, was an active and enthusiastic ball player, skater, and swimmer; and at all games, though eager to win, was a fair and honest champion. In college it was the same. As the college phrase had it, he was '^popular.'' Everybody liked him, and the friendships with the best men of his college days lasted through their lives. On leaving college he began the study of medicine with his father, adding to this office experience lectures, first at a school in Pittsfield, and afterwards at the College of Physicians and Surgeons in New York where Vlll INTRODUCTION in regular course he graduated. Later he spent a year of study in Paris. He was married in 1849 to Lucretia Morse Fisk, who lived till 1896. All who were fortunate in knowing her may well remember the charm she gave to the home, and recognize the aid and comfort that must have come from her cool, even tempered judgment. Since her death his daughter's family have made up the happy home. When his professional hfe began, he had the inestima- ble advantage of advice and suggestion from his father, who was still vigorous and a much trusted medical authority in a wide circuit. He was an apt pupil. And so for many years, during his father's life and after his death, he made the daily round of the typical family physician, kindly, devoted, patient, ready with the best help science afforded for the various ills of humanity. What miles of riding were his through snow and rain and darkness to answer the many anxious calls at all hours and in all seasons! How many scenes of sorrow and despair must he witness! What desperate cases of accident and disease waiting for his judgment must he ponder upon alone! Is there any career more worthy of oiu" affectionate regard? Through it all a serene self reliance and innate common sense were his support. He had learned much from teachers and books, but it was measured and modified by what his own eyes taught him. Moreover, besides all this he was actively interested in all that concerned the public good of the town, the INTRODUCTION ix establislimeiit of the Library, the Seminary, the public schools, the hospital, and he was for forty-four years a trustee of the State Hospital at Concord. Such was his busy life for many years, interrupted by one or two European trips and visits to some of our own cities. As years increased and deafness came upon him, with great reluctance he gradually gave up the active professional calls. It was a hard trial. Every- where he had been the welcome visitor, the true friend, the trusted confidant and adviser. He missed his country rides and the greetings of his many friends. He found, however, some recompense in the greater leisure for reading and for more frequent visits to rela- tives in neighboring towns. For many years my own home was elsewhere, but I spent most of the summers in Exeter and was his happy companion in most of his country rides. For the last few years, when I have had my home here again, we have been continually together, taking many strolls about the village. During these or when we were sitting side by side in his sunny southern parlor, he was glad to revive old scenes common to both our memories, when Exeter was an isolated village without a single foreigner; and stage coaches and chaises and ox teams were familiar objects in the streets. And besides these scenes and pictures v/ere the men and women long since gone; the dignified, venerable, and gracious; the odd, erratic, and amusingly grotesque. The many incidents of the simple, hospitable, contented life of the elder day he was happy in recalling. X INTRODUCTION And so the last weeks slipped away quietly. The walks grew shorter and at last were confined to his garden. For a few days he kept his chamber, and gently passed away greatly mourned by all, the last of my early playmates, — the faithful friend of more than four score years. N. E. SOULE. Exeter, New Hampshire, April, 1913. TOWN AND MEETING HOUSE Read at the Annual Parish Supper of the First Church, February, 1904 IMAGINE a house heated only by fireplaces, without furnace or stoves; bedrooms with fires only when there was sickness; ice in summer only in a few houses, the well the refrigerator, where were suspended buckets containing butter and other articles that needed to be kept cool; in the outside world no railroads, telegraph or telephone, — and you have the conditions that awaited me on my introduction to Exeter. In spite of these disadvantages I must say that I had a very happy and pleasant boyhood, with many nice playmates, and a number of hospitable and refined homes where I was always sure of a welcome. But alas! of all that circle I am almost the only one left- I think of only three now living who were schoolmates of mine. But these reminiscences are not what is ex- pected from me, the Town and the Meeting-House being my theme. I will confine myself to that part of the town with which as a boy I was most familiar, from Dr. Gorham's on Front Street to the Gilmans' across the river. I think the portion of Water Street from the foot of the Square to Great Bridge was called Mill Street. On it were a saw mill and a machine shop, which had formerly been a woolen mill. Mr. Charles Folsom^s block has replaced 2 EXETER IN 1830 the long wooden house of John Ward Oilman. One of Mr. Oilman's daughters was asked if she had seen a new sign on the Folsom tavern opposite. She replied: ''No, I have not seen it; our folks don't speak.'^ Along Water Street were very ordinary wooden buildings, with only three of brick, two of which remain and are occupied by the stores of Mr. Fleming and Mr. Bartlett. The third was larger, and stood on the site of the present Merrill block. In the house now occupied by Mr. Patrick Connors formerly dwelt Mr. Francis Orant, a pleasant little man, fond of flowers and some- thing of a botanist. The house contained his book store, bindery, and circulating library. The store was a favorite resort. Mr. Orant was the publisher of the ''New Hampshire Book," which was largely used in the schools of the state, and a very useful book it was. It was written by Mr. Hildreth, a former instructor in the Academy. The dwelling house of Mr. John PhilHps, on the site of the McKee block, was a two-story house similar to that of the principal of the Academy; the level of the street had been raised so much that you had to go down steps to the entrance. Nearly opposite was the fine residence of Judge Peabody, a gentleman distinguished in town and state. He died when I was seven, but I do not remember him, though I remember Oovernor Oilman, who died two years earlier. Let us now return to the Square, the beginning of "Court Street," as Front Street was then called. The town hall and court house have replaced two old fash- ioned houses; the other side is much as it was. The TOWN AND MEETING HOUSE 3 old court house stood in the centre of the Square, with a roadway on either side of it. The main front, I am quite certain, was toward Water Street; at any rate that end was more elaborately finished, though the other end was more commonly used for entrance. It was a fine looking building of two stories. The court room was on the second floor; the first floor was never used that I can remember except for the yearly fan- of the Seaman's Friend Society. That fair was an Exeter institution, much patronized by our own people and their friends from out of town. The court room was used for town meeting and for lectures. It had a gallery. There was no pubhc hall in town except a smaU one m the Burley tavern. The sessions of court were usually attended by crowds, and the town was well filled, as those from a distance were compelled to spend the night. The most prominent advocates of the county at that time were Mr. Ichabod Bartlett, of Portsmouth, and Mr. George Sullivan, of Exeter, though there were many other able lawyers at this bar. There was a greater display of oratory in the arguing of cases at that time than now. Mr. Sullivan was a natural orator, and even we boys liked to go into the gallery and listen to his musical voice and weU- rounded periods, although we were not old enough to appreciate his argument. The court house being surrounded by the street on all sides, the judges and lawyers were disturbed by the noises of the bustling town, and by their wish it was removed to the present Court Street. I remember well 4 EXETER IN 1830 the moving of the building, which was large and very- heavy; it was moved on rollers by two long lines of oxen. It did not remain long in its new place, for one evening after an exhibition called ''The Conflagration of Moscow'^ it was burned completely up. It was re- placed by the building known as the ''old town hall.'' Until the court house was moved the entrance to what is now Court Street was closed by a pair of bars. Beginning from Franklin Street, all east of Front Street was one vast field, and there were only three houses therein. One is still standing opposite Mr. Fogg's blacksmith shop. It was occupied by a family named York, in which there was a set of triplets named George Washington, Andrew Jackson, and John Quincy Adams. Another house, the home of Mr. John Moulton, stood where the Unitarian church now stands. It was reached by a lane, which is now Elm Street. Then there was a little one-story house, occupied by a negro named Whit- field, near where the Misses Jewell live. Whitfield's lane, now Elliot Street, led to it, and was continued up to the farm house of Colonel N. Oilman, near the Eddy. When Court Street was laid out and continued to Kensington, it shortened the distance to Haverhill some two miles. Two lines of stages ran from here to Boston, one by the way of Newburyport and Salem, and the other through Haverhill and Andover. The land which is now the beginning of Court Street was bought by two or three gentlemen, and what was the original town hall lot was given by them to the town for a public building for town purposes. At the time of TOWN AND MEETING HOUSE 5 the erection of the high school building there was great discussion as to whether it could be placed on that lot, as the new school house was to be built and used by the first district, and not by the town. The objections, however, came to nothing. Near the bars which closed Court Street stood the hay scales, a high structiu-e with long chains hanging down, which were fastened to the hubs of the wheels of a haycart when it was lifted from the ground and weighed. The boys dehghted in swinging with those chains. Where the Squamscott now stands was a dwelling house, and next to it a three-story wooden building, the chief hotel of the town, kept by Colonel Burley. Back of this were stables for the use of the various stage lines, which changed their horses here. The Methodist church stands on the site of an old house originally belonging to Deacon Samuel Brooks, whose initials may still be seen on a stone post in front. We children went to a school there, kept by Miss Mary Warren. The tuition was two dollars for ten weeks. The Academy had at that time only its wooden reci- tation building and the principaFs house. When my father was married, in 1818, he lived for a few months in a house on the Seminary lot, then deciding that it was too far out of the village for a doctor, ex- changed it for our present house. Next to the house of Dr. Gorham was a large field, and an ancient-looking house was there, built of the old-fashioned large sized brick. I was sorry to see it torn down, for it seemed very old. It was inhabited by a singular man named 6 EXETER IN 1830 Dennett Oilman; and his Man Friday, named Miles, was more singular than his master. Cattle shows used to be held on that field, and the wind-up was a dance in the old house. I have heard the story that at one of these fairs a well-known citizen offered for sale Bibles and rum on the same table. Now for some reminiscences of the First Church. I suppose I began my attendance there at the age of three or three and a half years, and it was not uncommon to hear the remarks of some infant during the service. Outwardly the building is unchanged except in the color of the paint, which in the time of my boyhood was white. The fence was of oaken posts set at regular intervals and connected by two lines of strong chains, a resting place for the boys of the neighborhood. The outside entrance of the building was the same as now. Two doors led from the vestibule directly into the audience room. (The middle door in the vestibule was added later when the building was altered.) From each door an aisle ran to the side of the pulpit, which faced the double row of slips that occupied the middle of the room. From the main aisles two other aisles branched off at right angles, then turned parallel, run- ning between the square wall pews and an inner row. These square pews (of the inner row) were extra large, one of them accommodating the whole Odlin family. Square pews often had extra chairs in them. A good, broad gallery extended along three sides. It was reached by flights of stairs leading from the vestibule. The pulpit was high. I think the sounding board must THE FIRST CHURCH TOWN AND MEETING HOUSE 7 have been taken down before my time, as I have no recollection of it. The room was very high, and conse- quently cold, and the windows rattled well on windy days. There were two not very large cast iron box- stoves near the pulpit; the funnels ran above the aisles, turned near the singers' gallery, and united in a larger smokepipe that connected with the outside air. In winter it was my delight to fill the footstove with bright coals and carry it to church for my mother; and she used to pass it round, for there were no arctics in those days. The pews in the meeting-house were made of perfectly clear pine and panelled. I think they were unpainted. The gallery, pulpit, and the window casings were painted white. The room with its correct proportions, its fine panelHng, and its lofty ceiling was worth seeing. On Sundays the pews were well filled by fathers, mothers, and children, for families were much larger in those days than now, and all the younger members were compelled to attend regularly. Some families commenced their Sunday on Saturday after supper, not keeping the following Sunday evening strictly. According to my earliest recollections no evening services were ever held, for I cannot see how the room could be lighted with the means they had in those days. There were no carpets in either the aisles or the pews, and the coming in of one belated was noticed by all. In prayer the whole congregation stood up, and lifted the hinged seats, and at the end some of the seats went down with a bang. There were usually a good number of singers and of instrumental performers. 8 EXETER IN 1830 My father's pew was at the head of the aisle, facing the door; any one wanting him had only to open the door and beckon. It was close against the pulpit, so that the minister could only be seen from one side of the pew. I remember that old Parson Cram, coming to our house one day after a long absence, said to my father: *' Doctor, you have sat so long under the drop- pings of the Sanctuary that you have lost your hair!'' I can remember when Mr. Smith was installed in 1829, and that is as far back as I can go. They had made elaborate preparations for the day, and a grand musical feast was expected. There was about three feet of snow on the ground, and the day before came a great rain, so that the streets ran like rivers, the water being deep enough to swamp an old fashioned sleigh. It was a sad disappointment. A short time after the settlement of Mr. Smith there was built on the Parish land on Centre Street a two- story building, the lower floor being used as a vestry, while the upper was occupied by a private school. After the alterations in the First Parish meeting-house, the lecture room, so called, came into general use for lectures, concerts and so forth, supplying a long felt want. I remember distinctly two great assemblies held in this building before it was altered. One was a trial to break the will of one of the Cilleys of Nottingham. There was such a crowd that the court adjourned from the court house to the meeting-house. I went in, and TOWN AND MEETING HOUSE 9 saw the famous lawyers, Daniel Webster, Jeremiah Mason, and others. The other occasion was in 1838, when the fiftieth anniversary of Dr. Abbot's principalship of the Academy was celebrated. Many eminent men whose names are now historic were present. There was no hall in town large enough for the dinner, and as the pews in this building had been cleared out preparatory to the altera- tions, there was abundance of room. Daniel Webster and Edward Everett set a standard of speaking that the present day would find hard to equal. The students of the Academy, of whom I was one, on the forenoon of that day were marched down to the house of Judge Farrar, where Mr. Webster stayed, to be introduced to him, and he shook hands with us all. I met him again in the evening at Dr. Abbot's, and much to my surprise he recognized me and called me by name. There were two uniformed military companies in town, the Rockingham Guards and the Exeter Artillery. Their appearance called out all the boys, and we followed them everywhere with great delight. I do not recall their uniform accurately, but there was much red trim- ming about it, and the men wore very uncomfortable hats, with tall plumes made of red and white feathers. They were obliged by law to come out on a certain day in May — when, as I remember, it usually rained; and some day in autumn when the general muster was held. People can now have no idea of an old fashioned muster, so different was it from any military exercise of to-day. 10 EXETER IN 1830 I cannot describe it; it was one of those things which to be appreciated have to be seen. I have attended them in three different states, and they were all pretty much the same. I have heard that John Ward Oilman was postmaster of this town for forty years, but the first postmaster whom I remember was Timothy Gridley, a strong Democrat in this Federal town. He was a tinman by trade, and carried on a large business, sending carts loaded with his wares long distances from home. His shop was on High Street, in the old building on the top of the rise just beyond Great bridge. Here was later kept the popular ladies' store of the town. The next postmaster was Jewett Hoyt, who lived in the old house on the opposite side of the street. He removed the office afterwards to the Brooks house at the corner of Front and Centre Streets, where it was taken care of by his daughters. The post office has remained on this side of the river ever since. The postage on a letter to Boston was twelve and a half cents. A great many letters were carried privately. One town official who was prominent in my boyhood was long ago dropped from the list, — the town crier. A colored man named William Tash performed the duties of this office. He used to hang an old fashioned string of sleighbells round the neck of his horse, then mount and ride about town, proclaiming to the people that there was to be an auction or that a child was lost, or something of equal importance. He had a fittle shop ,on Newmarket road, where he did hair cutting. The TOWN AND MEETING HOUSE 11 first horse shoe that I ever saw nailed up over a door was on this shop. I connected it with something weird, and did not hke to go there. The setting out of trees in the streets was much stimu- lated by Mr. Wood, of Canandaigua, New York, who passed some months here with a relative. He took much interest in the matter, and many of the beautiful elms that now line our streets we owe to him. The two elms immediately in front of my house were set out by my father in 1818 or 1819. The robbery of the Exeter bank occurred when I was five years old, and I remember that it was much talked of. The bank was literally cleaned out, only a few coppers being left of the thirty thousand dollars in its safe. All the money was recovered, except about five hundred dollars, through the shrewdness of Judge Jere- miah Smith of this town who was the president of the bank. But the occurrence that impressed me most was the miu-der of Mr. White, of Salem, Massachusetts. He was a wealthy man without wife or children, and was sup- posed to have made a will disappointing some of his nephews. He was killed one night in his bed and the will stolen; but through the masterly conduct of the case for the government by Mr. Webster the guilty ones were convicted, one committing suicide in jail, the other being hanged. I remember going to Boston a little boy in the care of the stage driver, and having him point out the house and the window of the chamber in which the deed was done. The whole community 12 EXETER IN 1830 was shocked by this event, as all the parties, including Crowninshield, the murderer, belonged to the aristo- cratic families of Salem. Daniel Webster's success in this case, it was said, advanced his reputation greatly. HEMLOCK SIDE Read at the Annual Parish Supper of the First Church, 1905 DURING my lifetime I have seen great changes in every department of hfe, and great advances in knowledge and science. Many of the inventions which facilitate labor and intercom-se, and which add to our comfort in every way, have been produced within my memory. Yet with all these advantages of modern life I often think of the old pleasures that surrounded me in my youth, and can truly say that I have seen and enjoyed the old, and can now rejoice in the new. Seventy years ago the inhabitants of many considera- ble villages, and of the few cities of New England, were divided into antagonistic parties by a river or by some imaginary boundary. In Boston, for example, there were the North and South Enders, and I think the divis- ion was the same in Concord. In Salem the Hne was at the bridge between that town and Beverly, and woe to the boy that was caught alone off his own side. Exeter was divided by the river into the Pine Side and the Hemlock Side, and the dwellers were called re- spectively Piners and Hemlockers. The contentions were principally among boys, and as far as I know no serious affrays occurred; but I mention this as a custom characteristic of the time. 14 EXETER IN 1830 Let US now bury the hatchet, and take a look at Hemlock Square as it was about 1828, when it was a busy centre of trade and manufacture, as well as the place of residence of many good and worthy citizens. Across the bridge, the first house on the right was the home of Mr. Henry Shute, his wife, two sons, and two daughters. He died without suspecting that he was to be known as grandfather of a popular author of the future. Next were the store and dwelling house of Major Nathaniel Weeks, who kept the varied assort- ment of goods usually found in a store of that date, and had a good trade. In the next house, where Mr. John Getchell afterwards hved, at one time dwelt General Peabody. He had been a member of the Continental Congress, and prominent in mihtary and civil affairs, but being arrested for debt he was brought to the Exeter jail. He had the privilege of the jail Hmits, so called, and was allowed to Uve in his own house and practice medicine within a certain distance. He asked that his limit might be extended to the church, but he was never known to avail himself of his privilege on Sundays. General Peabody was a man of superior talent, but very profane. He was an original member of the New Hampshire Medical Society. He died in 1823. In the house of Mrs. Newell Head lived Mr. Coffin Smith, who in my day had retired from business. He had three sons and three daughters, all married and settled in Exeter in comfortable homes of their own. It was said that the old gentleman was in the habit of making a round of morning calls upon his children and HEMLOCK SIDE 15 finding out what each family was to have for dinner; then he would dine with the one whose dinner suited him best. The open lot on the easterly corner of Oilman lane was occupied by two buildings. In one the Odhns, Colonel James, William, Joseph, and Benjamin, manufac- tured carriages, principally chaises; and Mr. George Smith made wheels. Next to this was a building where the same kind of work was carried on by Mr. Robert Shute and his brother Henry; the latter had quite a reputation as a seller of their products. Later this building was moved away, and Robert Shute built in its place a store, and with his son Isaac traded there for some years, retiring rich, as wealth was reckoned in those days. Beyond this was the store of Mr. J. Oilman Smith, which stood in the yard of his dwelHng house, now occupied by Dr. Chesley. Mr. Smith kept a general store for many years, accumulated property, and retired. Though we had not the convenience of an electric road to Stratham, he had a large trade with Stratham people. Close by his house was the blacksmith shop of Mr. Joel Lane, where a great deal of the ironwork of the carriages was done. Farther up High Street Oilman Robinson made good and serviceable wagons, and on the lower part of Auburn Street Mr. Charles Coffin Smith had his paint shop, where most of the carriages were painted. Between Joel Lane's shop and the house where Mr. Follansby now lives, there were no buildings to obstruct the view of Captain Nathaniel Oilman's beautiful field, containing some eighty acres of fine 16 EXETER IN 1830 tillage land. It was originally owned by a Mr. Leavitt. Captain Oilman was one of the most energetic men in town. He bought and held all the land he could, also doing a large trade on Water Street, receiving produce from the back country by oxsleds, and West India goods by schooner. He employed many men on the farm, as work was done in those days entirely without machinery. I can remember seeing a dozen or more men mowing the tall grass in that field, swinging their scythes in a line; and then it all had to be raked by hand. People can now have no idea of the amount of labor that was expended in housing the hay from such a field as that. Captain Oilman's hay crop from all his farms was not fully gathered in till late in the autumn. I have spent many an holiday afternoon with the Oilman boys, raking after the cart. All this great amount of hay was consumed by the large herd of cattle kept on the farm, for stock raising was considered profitable in those days. It was much easier then than now for the farmer to get men to work, and the men were better and more reliable. In the house on the corner of Portsmouth Avenue lived Colonel Odlin, probably the heaviest man in town, as he weighed between three and four hundred. Where Dr. Mason lives was a tavern kept by Samuel Ham, a jovial man and a noted horse trader. He left Exeter for Danvers, Massachusetts. His wife was a Leavitt, and they had a son about my age, who died a number of years ago. He was in some mercantile business in Boston, and was quite well off. HEMLOCK SIDE 17 Next to the tavern was a little building where Dr. Norwood had a store. On one side he had drugs and medicines for sale; on the other his wife, a very bright woman, kept a few dry goods and candies. Every boy of that time knew the talkative parrot that hung in the store. Mrs. Norwood was the daughter of a retired minister, Parson Thurston, and they all lived in the house on the corner of Hall Place. Across this narrow street, the house now owned by the heirs of Colonel W. N. Dow was kept as a tavern by Mr. Kinsley Hall. I believe there were four taverns in the village at that time and one on Perkins' Hill. Below, in the long, narrow building used as a tenement house (since re- moved) Timothy Gridley carried on a large manufacture of tinware, sending his goods far south as well as into the surrounding towns. He was the first postmaster that I remember, and for years he found room for the Exeter post office in his tin shop. In the house still standing close to the bridge lived Mr. Samuel Rowe, an old-time trader, whose store was on the ground floor of his house. I can barely recall him. His daughter married Judge John Sullivan. One son went to college, studied law, and settled in Bangor where he became prominent in his profession; the second son, Augustus Rowe, died in this town not long ago. On the Pine Side of the river at the beginning of Franklin Street Mr. Daniel Melcher made good carriages and sleighs, and a little farther down the street Lewis Mitchell and Orin Head had shops of the same kind. In all these shops the work was done entirely by hand, ■>* 18 EXETER IN 1830 and the vehicles were not turned out very rapidly; but they were so thoroughly made that they lasted a generation. Carriage making had an early start here, and Exeter carriages bore an excellent reputation. The old makers were very careful and cautious and their output was small. The business died out for want of some enterprising and energetic men to succeed these older ones, and combine the separate establishments according to modern methods. There was an excellent opportunity and I have often wondered that it was never seized. On Pleasant Street my father built a mill for the manufacture of potato starch, about the first of the kind in this country. The product was sent almost wholly to the mills in Lowell, though the starch served for household use also. I think no other kind was then made. The bags of starch were hauled to Lowell by horses, the team making the journey twice a week. The manufacture of British gum was after a time added to this industry. Up to this time it had been imported, but the agent of the Merrimack Print Works at Lowell asked my father if he could not make it. He experimented until he succeeded, and he sold it to them for many years. The price paid was the same for the last pound as for the first, and much less than the imported gum cost. It was used principally in thickening the dyes of the Print Works. When the Starch Mill started, potatoes were bought as low as ninepence (123/2 cents) a bushel, and the farmers were glad to sell them at that price; but as HEMLOCK SIDE 19 this industry increased the demand, the farmers became more independent and tenacious, and the price went up to 16 2-3 cents (a Yankee shilUng) a bushel. By this mill my father added much to the prosperity of the neighboring farmers. Farm produce was at that time disposed of almost entirely by barter; but from him they received money, and as the yield per acre was much larger than now, even with the low price per bushel the income was quite large. In the fall of the year, when the crop was brought in, the street would be lined with oxcarts, waiting their turn to unload. I think it was said that some men gathered four hundred bushels to the acre; we never heard of the rot in those days, and I know we had very fine potatoes for the table. The mill stood where now is a large wooden tenement house belonging to the Exeter Manufactiu-ing Company. The large brick house next to this was built by my father principally to provide another cellar for his potatoes, as he had to have room for many thousands of bushels. His mill burned down twice, and after one burning he had a new one built and in operation in four weeks. During this time he was in full practice of his profession, driving all over the county. The manager at the mill for many years was Mr. Benjamin Lang, uncle of Professor Wentworth, a very capable and upright man, and extremely pleasant to us children. After the mill closed he bought the brick house on High Street now owned by Mr. Russell, and lived there until his death, respected by all. 20 EXETER IN 1830 It is not necessary for me to speak of the cotton mill, except to say that it was in full working order in those days, with a reliable and faithful set of American em- ployees. The old jail stood where the house of George Leavitt now stands, on Pleasant Street; in fact, I think this house is the former residence of the keeper, much changed. The jail itself was built at right angles to the westerly end of the house, and like it, was of two stories and of wood. The windows were small, with heavy iron bars. The doors of the cells were of oak, some four or five inches thick, studded with iron bolts; at the side was a small opening for the passage of food. The entrance to the jail was through the house. In comparison with modern jails it was uncomfortable, to say the least. Some years ago, as I was walking down Washington Street in Boston, I saw on the outside of a building a placard announcing an exhibition of burglars' tools captured by the police. I went in, and was much in- terested in the display, which included all sorts of burglars' implements, photographs of notorious crimi- nals, and among other things a huge key, labeled ^^Key of the old Exeter Jail." I could not learn from the attendants anything of its history. In closing I will mention two exciting incidents which occurred on the Hemlock Side. In a small house on Portsmouth Avenue lived a disreputable negro named Ben Jakes. The house was a great nuisance to the neighborhood, and finally a mob gathered for the pur- HEMLOCK SIDE 21 pose of tearing it down. Colonel Odlin came out and read the Riot Act, but at the same time encouraged the rioters by telling them to ^^Pull away, boys!'' At a later date another mob gathered about the Meth- odist meeting-house on the same avenue (a brick building now a double tenement) , wherein an Abohtionist lectiurer was holding forth. Stones and water were thrown in and the meeting was broken up in the midst of great excite- ment. THE GARRISON HOUSE AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD From a Paper Read Before Exeter Chapter, D. A. R. I CANNOT say that I am eligible for membership in your society, but I could claim to be a Son of the Revolution, both on my father's and on my mother's side; and this old house was the home of my ancestors for three generations. I can remember much farther back towards the Revo- lution than any of you, and can recall the interest which we young boys took in everything pertaining to it, in listening to the stories the elders had to tell, and reading the few books we had. Fifty years after the war we had not got away from its influence, and the story of the battles, and of the trials and sufferings of those in the army and those at home, were familiar to us. I remember one book that I owned, and I wish I had it now. It was a history of the American Revolution, written for the young; I read it many times, and always with much interest and pleasure. With houses full of books, and pubUc Hbraries in almost every town, people to-day cannot realize the paucity of books at that time. What few we possessed were gladly passed around to our friends and neighbors. The old Revolutionary soldiers were not all dead then. I remember Judge Jeremiah Smith, who lived, as you THE GARRISON HOUSE 23 all know, in the house now occupied by the Colonial Dames. He was one of the most distinguished men of the state, and very genial and witty. He had quite a large library, and he kindly gave me the use of it. Mr. Lovering, always called ^' Daddy," lived in the old Lovering house on Front Street, now owned by his granddaughter, Mrs. Wentworth. I remember him very well. He was quite short and a great wrestler. It was said of him that he threw every man in the army who contested with him. Tobias Cutler had been a slave, and his freedom was given him for his coiu-age and patriotism. Jude Hall, another negro, was remarkable for his physical strength, and it was said that the parts of his ribs that are usually cartilaginous were of bone. He Hved on the Kensington Road, and was the prominent witness in the trial of John Blaisdell for the murder of John Wadleigh, committed near the Cove bridge on that road. These Revolutionary soldiers of Exeter are all that I can recall, though probably I have seen others. My father's father, who served for short periods in the army, I can remember perfectly. I will now say a few words about the family who were hving in this old house in my boyhood. Miss Harvey has told of the earlier occupants.* The Clifford family moved into this house somewhere about 1788 or 1789. Mr. Clifford was a mechanic, and studied architecture. I have always understood that he planned the First *Jolm Gilman, 1624-1708, builder of the Garrison house; John Gihnan, 1676-1742; and Peter Gihnan, 1705-1788. 24 EXETER IN 1830 Parish edifice, which was thought worthy of praise in a prominent magazine of the time, and was copied for the meeting-house of Saco, which burned many years ago. He was an ingenious man and designed a diving bell, which was kept in his barn and was an object of great curiosity to us boys. It looked like a pork barrel in shape. Mr. Clifford was before my time, but I remember his three daughters. Clarissa married and hved near Boston, Eunice and Betsey remained at home and carried on a miUinery store. It was the leading one in that hne, and was quite successful. Miss Betsey was the last of her family; she left her property for mission- ary work among the Indians; but as she designated no special society, some distant relatives attempted to break the will. The case was carried into the courts, and was decided in favor of the Home Missionary Society. Miss Betsey was prim and formal, with rather a cold expression, strong and decided in her opinions, quaint in her dress. I can recall her, wearing the old-fashioned calash of green silk; later she used a small green sun- shade, which she generally forgot to let down as she marched ahnost the length of the aisle to her pew in the First Church. After her death everything was sold at auction, but I never knew what became of the diving bell.* The house was bought by Mrs. Darhng, and everyone ♦The wooden goose, wMch had served as a float to mark the position of the diving bell in the water, was for many years attached to the cupola of the barn as a weathervane. \ THE GARRISON HOUSE 25 was glad that it fell into such good hands. Now it is one of the oldest houses in the state, and it is to be hoped that it can be preserved in its present good condition. The street from Great bridge to the String bridge was in old times called Mill Street, and as far back as I can remember there were on the water side a sawmill and a large two-story building, used formerly as a manufactory of woolens. At the time of my earliest recollection, the building was used as a machine shop by a Mr. Derby, and much of the machinery for the cotton mill was made there. Later it was used for storage of wool by Mr. Woodbridge Odlin, who made a considerable fortune in the wool business during the war. There was another sawmill on the island by String bridge. Beyond the machine shop was a building with two stores, still standing, and next to it the long rambling house, replaced by the Folsom block, where the daugh- ters of John Ward Oilman lived and kept a millinery shop. There were several of them, and they were com- monly spoken of collectively as Debby-Hannah-Betsey- Jinny-Johnny-Ward, the surname Oilman being too frequent to be distinctive. The father, who died in 1823, was postmaster of the town for forty years. His oldest son was educated as a lawyer, settled in Bangor, Maine, and became the first mayor of the city. The daughters were little short women and very peculiar. They were very religious in the old fashioned way. The youngest, Betsey, was always ready to act as collector for charities and the various church calls, and enjoyed that not overmuch desired occupation. 26 EXETER IN 1830 The sisters supported a brother who had formerly been a sea captain, but was for some reason retired. I remember him driving their cows to their pasture near "Cuffee^s woods.'' Many queer stories were told of these old maidens. One of them, contemplating a new set of teeth, applied to an acquaintance who had false teeth for the loan of them for trial before having some made for herself. But borrowing and lending were very common in those days! When the last of the old sisters died, in 1865, an auction of their belongings was held, which excited much interest and comment. I wish you could all have attend- ed it — real antiques, with scarcely a modern article. There was a great collection of old moth-eaten garments, and queer things hoarded and forgotten in unused rooms, and many very old household furnishings. Next to the Oilman house toward String bridge was an old one-story building, which I never saw used for any other purpose than a fishmarket. Beyond this was a rather large old wooden building used both as store and dwelling. The store was kept by Mrs. Ladd and her sister, Martha Oilman; I think they were daughters of Deacon Samuel Oilman. They lived in the Oovernor Oilman house on Front Street. Having some money and being ambitious, they built the first Squamscott, afterwards struck by lightning and burned. It was a building of four stories, not so long as the one which now bears the name. It contained a hall, known as Howard Hall, a nice room, though not very large. There THE GARRISON HOUSE 27 were small balconies in front with iron railings. The building was of brick, well built, and cost more than the women expected. It broke them financially and they left town, settling in Washington. Mrs. Ladd had a son and two daughters — bright, pleasing girls. Both daughters married; one lived in Virginia, the other in California. I do not know the exact date of the building of the hotel, but it was in the thirties. On the opposite corner, at the beginning of Front Street, dwelt Joseph Tilton, a lawyer of good standing, his wife, a sister of Mrs. Hurd. Next, to the east, was the Nelson house in which lived a widow by the name of Roby. This house sat a little back from the sidewalk, and has been moved forward. In the gambrel roofed house opposite the Folsom block, now used as a restau- rant, lived John Lougee, a man of considerable wit. He was called ''Putty," because he did much repairing of broken glass. He had a family of boys, one of whom was George, the proprietor of the Sea View House at Rye Beach. Augustus, the oldest son, went to Raleigh, North Carolina, where he was editor or proprietor of one of the city newspapers and occupied a very respect- able position. Mrs. Lougee was a kind, motherly woman, who was much esteemed. She was a daughter of Mr. Leavitt, who kept the tavern (on Front Street) before Colonel Burley became landlord. This Mr. Leavitt had a son who kept the old stage tavern in Elm Street, Boston. As a small boy I spent the night there, having ridden there on the stage in the 28 EXETER IN 1830 care of the driver. My father drove to Boston with his horse and met me there. The next day we drove thirty miles south of Boston to visit relatives. How different the travel in those days from now! Next Mr. Lougee's was a double house, since enlarged and called the American House. It belonged to the Fellowes family. Old Mr. Fellowes had two sons, Ephraim and Jeremiah. Jeremiah went to college and studied law, but his mind becoming unbalanced by reason, it was thought, of unrequited affection, he never was able to practise his profession. He wrote, however, a book of poems, which is to be found in our Town Library. Ephraim was a printer, and had a large family, of whom one daughter, and a grandson, Mr. Fred S. Fellowes, are now living here. Next was a building built for a store. I went to a school kept in the second story by Miss Elizabeth Dow, in later years known as Mrs. Leonard. This building has been used as a bakery and much altered. I have now described this street as it was seventy-five years ago, and I have a strong impression that I remem- ber this end of Frankhn Street before the long boarding house was built for factory workers. Near this end of the street was a blacksmith shop belonging to a Mr. Proctor, a very skillful and ingenious man; and where now are unsightly buildings was green grass down to the water. In old times all baptisms by immersion were done in the river by the bridge at noon on a Sunday, and brought out a crowd. On one occasion the railings of the bridge gave way and some were immersed without THE GARRISON HOUSE 29 the aid of a minister. Among them, I am told, was the late Charles G. Conner. In Franklin Street lived Thomas Oilman, one of Exeter's characters. He was quite a genealogist, and a very ingenious man, a silversmith by trade. He was called Tommy Tinker, and also, by us boys, Blenner- hasset. He was concerned in Aaron Burr's treason, and went to Ohio to join the company that Blennerhasset raised. Mrs. Julia Oilman, who so long and acceptably acted as janitress at the Seminary, was the wife of his son. FRONT STREET IN 1830 The following notes were jotted down in a blank book, at intervals during the years 1905-1909, after reminiscent walks taken with Dr. Soule THE String bridge took its name from the fact that at first it was only a footbridge made by a single stringer stretched across the water. An opening, now covered by portions of the Wood and Janvrin blocks on Water Street, led to a large building used as a grist mill and patronized by all the towns around as well as by Exeter. A very sad accident oc- curred in this mill many years ago. The miller, Mr. Fleming (father of Mr. Oliver Fleming), was caught by the thighs between two very heavy cog wheels, and horribly crushed. He Hved but a short time, dying in great suffering. I was with him to the end. On Water Street, opposite the foot of Spring Street, lived Dr. Tilton. He was born in 1734, and hved to the age of ninety-four. He was a very respectable man, and had the chief practice of the town. I remember him as a very old man. It was his custom when he visited his patients to ride on horseback, carrjdng his medicine in saddlebags. He wore small clothes, ruffled shirt, and a large wig and queue, presenting a venerable appearance. I will now try to record the occupants of the houses on Front Street beginning from Water Street, as far as ^- ^ FRONT STREET IN 1830 31 I can recollect them about the year 1830. The house on the easterly corner of Front Street was then occupied by Joseph Tilton, Esq. During the Revolution or later it had been kept as an inn by Samuel Folsom, an im- portant man in his day, though not so distinguished as his brother, General Folsom. His wife was an Emery, and it was her younger sister, Margaret Emery, who, by her own desire, waited on General Washington when he took breakfast at the Folsom tavern, and whom Washington kissed on leaving. Mr. Tilton, who married a daughter of the Folsoms, was prominent as a '^business lawyer," and stood high among the legal fraternity of that day. He was a man of considerable wit, A widowed sister of Mrs. Tilton, Mrs. Stevens, with her daughter, lived in the house in my early days, but the child, whose name was Anna, died young. A school teacher boarded with the Tiltons, a very bright young woman, who, on returning from church where a young minister had preached in exchange with Mr. Hurd, was asked by Mrs. Stevens how she liked the sermon. She replied: "Oh, it was a perfect ragbag!" The point of this story is that she afterwards married the minister, and, as the children's story books say, they lived happily ever afterward. Next to Mr. Tilton' s was the three-story house of the Hon. George Sullivan, now owned by Mr. Sleeper. On the same lot, near the Gardner hne, stood his office; and between the office and the line was a driveway leading to the stable, which stood quite far back. Mr. Sullivan was a son of General John Sullivan, of the 32 EXETER IN 1830 Revolutionary army. He was a short man, compactly built, of dark complexion, very erect and of fine presence. He was highly distinguished in his profession and as an orator, and was a member of Congress and Attorney General of the state for many years. He was very fond of horseback riding, and I can well remember the fine appearance he made on his black horse. He had a large family; I think there were four sons and three daughters who lived to grow up. Mr. Sullivan did not go into society at all, being engrossed by his large busi- ness, to which he was devoted, and his wife was more or less an invahd. The sons were all much older than myself and resembled their father in their retired habits; the daughters, however, joined in the social pleasures of the young people. I do not know the year in which the Gardner house was built, but it was, I think, some time in the twenties. It was built by Mr. John Gardner, who came here from Brookline, Massachusetts. Mr. Gardner was a jovial pleasant man as I remember him, and a kind, accom- modating neighbor. He married Deborah Dean, a daughter of Ward Clark Dean, and became a partner in business with his father-in-law. The business was founded in 1770, and was carried on, when I first knew the store, by John Gardner and Son. Many can re- member the old wooden building, which was destroyed by fire, and replaced by the building now occupied by HilUard and Kimball. Mr. Gardner had four sons and one daughter. Three of the sons went away, and George remained, continuing FRONT STREET IN 1830 33 in business with his father, after whose death he took as partner John P. P. Kelly, who had been clerk for a number of years. Mr. George Gardner died not an old man, leaving three daughters and a son. Two daughters are now hving, Madame Bouguereau and Miss Maria Gardner. My father after he was married in April, 1818, bought a house on what is now the Seminary lot. The entrance was from Middle Street by a lane. After living there for a few months, he exchanged the house for the one on Front Street. I do not know when this house was built, but Mr. Giddings, a man of remarkable memory, told me that he remembered coming to this house on an errand in 1815. The builder was a Mr. Rundlett, a master mason, whom I remember well. The property cost my father three thousand dollars. When he bought the house, the garden bordered on the street, including the land on which the Gardner house was afterward built, and the lot was not deep. Back of it the land was owned by Governor Gilman, and my father ex- changed his front land for an equal portion of the Gover- nor's land on equal terms, yet the Governor thought he was doing a favor. The line at the back was made to agree with that of Mr. SulHvan's lot. The next house to my father's was occupied by the Boardman family, but had formerly belonged to a Rundlett family. Mr. Joseph Boardman bought it and opened a store there. He unfortunately had to have a leg amputated and for many years had to use crutches. He was a very pleasant man, very kind to 34 EXETER IN 1830 US children. He had not, especially in his later years, a very large stock of goods, but his store was the loaf- ing place for the men of the neighborhood where the news of the day and politics and religion were discussed. I can see those old fellows — they seemed old to me then — sitting on the counters and flour barrels, enjoy- ing themselves. There were no daily newspapers at that time; the news was passed round by word of mouth. Mr. Boardman had two daughters, both now dead. He gave them a good education. One of them married a Southerner, who had attended the Academy; the other remained single. I retain a very pleasant memory of the good old man. Mr. Boardman's mother in her last years lived with him. She was insane, not violently so, but very trouble- some. One day she was left alone for a short time. When the family returned, they found the door locked against them. There was a very strong odor of cooking, for the old lady had improved the time in getting her- self a grand dinner of onions, cabbage, and other vege- tables. It was a long time before the anxious family could gain entrance. Another circumstance connected with this house, which made a great impression on me, was the suicide of a brother of Mr. Boardman, a man who had been in business in Saratoga Springs. He cut his throat in a large shed which stood back of the house, and boylike, I was one of the first to visit the scene; I did not sleep well that night. On the opposite side of the square, where the town hall now stands, lived Mrs. Dean. Her husband. Ward FRONT STREET IN 1830 35 Clark Dean, died before my day, but I remember his wife well. She was an old school lady, and I have pleasant recollections of her. Mrs. Dean's house was a fine, handsome one of colonial style, two stories high, with a gambrel roof. It had a fine panelled hall and stairway. It was built by Nathaniel Oilman, or by his father, Judge Nicholas, for him. Judge Nicholas Oilman was a son of Councillor John, who built the old Oarrison House, and grandfather of Nicholas Oilman, treasurer of New Hampshire during the Revolution, who hved in what is now the Cincinnati Memorial Hall. Joseph Oilman and his son, Benjamin Ives, lived in the old house until they moved to Marietta, Ohio, being among the first settlers of that state. The house as I remember it sat well back from Front Street, and had a porch at the front door. In that day the house and its situation were very attractive. The town bought the place and built the present town hall. The house was moved to Franklin Street, the first story taken off, and it still stands in a miserable state of dilapidation. Next to the Dean house, where the Court house now is, was the residence of Judge Tenney. He died much before my day, but the impression is strong upon me that I have seen his wife, Tabitha Oilman, though I must have been very young at the time. There used to be in our house a mysterious trunk, which my mother said belonged to Mrs. Tenney, and I remember her as coming to look into it. She had a literary turn, and wrote one or two books; one, called ^^ Female Quixotism, '^ was popular in its time. Her husband was a physician, 36 EXETER IN 1830 and served through the Revolutionary war as surgeon, and later was a judge of probate. It was said that when about to build a house, he took his wife in a chaise and drove about in search of a desirable model. They found a house which pleased them, and had theirs built in the same style. The first family that I remember as living in that house was that of Judge Samuel Bell, who came here as cashier of the old Exeter Bank. He had two little boys, named John and Samuel. Then, I think, Judge Farrar lived there and took Judge Bell's place at the bank. Afterwards Tristram Shaw bought it, and it was used a long time by that family. It has been moved across the river, and is now owned by Mr. Dana Baker. The First Church has been described in another place. Opposite the church stood an ordinary two-storied wooden house, occupied by a Mr. Proctor, a blacksmith, elsewhere spoken of. It was torn down or moved, and the Squamscott built there. The next house, a large three-storied building, was the old stage tavern; I do not think it had any particular name. It was kept by Colonel James Burley, an energetic man who had a good deal to do with town affairs, was usually moderator at town meeting, rather pompous in manner and decided in opinion. As one of his townsmen said of him, ''Col- onel Burley never had a doubt." He continued landlord until he was appointed cashier of the new bank, called the Granite and afterwards the Granite State Bank. The brick building was built just across the street, containing rooms for the bank and the residence of the cashier. FRONT STREET IN 1830 37 The next house beyond the tavern was the residence of Governor Oilman, in that day a fine specimen of the colonial style, two stories high and having a fine hall, with two flights of stairs and handsome panelling. In one of the chambers on the panel over the fireplace someone had painted a group of horsemen, which I suppose represented the preliminary meet of huntsmen after the Enghsh custom. It was more curious perhaps, than artistic; who did it or when it was done, I cannot say. Governor Gilman removed from his own house on Governor's lane to this house, which was the property of his third wife. I remember her quite well. She had the old fashioned way of giving children, when they came with their mothers to see her, something good to eat. I suppose that custom fixed my recollection of her. It was said of one of Governor Gilman's three wives that she was very exact in her ways. She always stopped her fires on a certain day in the spring and began them on a particular day of the month in the fall, regardless whether the season was cold or warm. She was inexora- ble in this, and very set. After the Governor died his widow Hved in the house for a short time, then moved to Boston, I believe. The house was rented for a time, and afterward sold to Colonel James Burley and Stephen W. Dearborn. Mr. Dear- born took the half toward the old tavern. The house was added to and changed to suit the ideas of the pur- chasers; it was a fine specimen of the colonial style to begin with, but the effect was destroyed in the altera- 38 EXETER IN 1830 tions. The fine hall, however, remains the same, I think, though still farther changes have been made by reason of much damage done by fire. I went to a dame's school in this building when a little boy, and my little granddaughter attended one there in her turn. The house had a very pleasant garden, extending along the street to Moulton's lane, afterwards called Elm Street > from the very handsome tree that stood in the middle of its entrance from Front Street. Moulton's lane separated the gardens of the brothers, John T. and Nathaniel Oilman. Charles Conner bought a piece of this garden and built his house upon it. Across the street was an old house belonging to Deacon Samuel Brooks, who died before my day. He came, I think, from Medford, Mass.; he belonged to the promi- nent family of that town. He had a number of children, but none remained here; I believe I have seen some of them. The house was old and much faded as I recollect it, painted originally red. It was rented to various families. The one most noted was that of Mrs. Rogers, the widow of Colonel John Rogers. She was the grand- daughter of General Enoch Poor, who was prominent in the Revolutionary war. I remember his daughter, the mother of Mrs. Rogers, very well. General Poor lived in a house on Water Street where the News-Letter block is situated. On the Center Street side of the Brooks house was a door opening into a fair-sized room, where most of the children of the neighborhood took their first lessons. I commenced my a, b, c there when not over three and a FRONT STREET IN 1830 39 half years old, and continued there, off and on, till I was seven. It was kept by Miss Mary Warren, known among the children as ^^ Polly'' Warren. She had very sharp black eyes which seemed to see everything that was going on among us. She was, I suppose, a good woman, but not at all sympathetic and, consequently, not an ideal teacher of little children. One of her pun- ishments was to pin the wrongdoer to her apron. All the children wore aprons in those days, both boys and girls. Provision was made against the rapid growth of boys by a couple of tucks in the legs of their trousers. In a one-story addition of the Brooks house, the post office was kept. Jewett Hoyt was postmaster, his two daughters doing all the work. Finally the house was torn down and the Universalist meeting-house built on the lot. In this house Mrs. Hervey and her father began the catering business, which the Hervey family carried on so long in this town. Across Center Street we come to the house of Mr. Benj. Clark Oilman, a man somewhat peculiar, but of more than ordinary talents. He was very ingenious; among other things he made clocks, and perhaps some of the clocks of the tall kind are still to be found with his name on the face. He died when I was very young, leaving, as I recall, three sons and two daughters. Two of his sons, William and Arthur, went into business in Norwich, Connecticut, and were fine men. William was a very religious man. He took a great interest in Sunday schools, and whenever he came to Exeter always visited 40 EXETER IN 1830 our Sunday School and made remarks which were eager- ly listened to, as he had an unusual power of interesting children. During the last years of his life he Uved in New York city and was devoted to every form of good work. He had several children, one of whom was Daniel Coit Oilman, former president of Johns Hopkins University. Charles, the third son of Benj . Clark Oilman, began busi- ness as an apothecary in Portland, but for some reason came home and was taken care of bj^ his sisters. He died here in the old house. His principal employment in Exeter was proof reading. He was by nature a bright man, and very pleasant and kindly. The eldest daughter of Benj. Clark Oilman married Mr. Odiorne, who was engaged in the iron business in Exeter, but later moved to Norwich. He died there, leaving her with three young children, two girls and a boy. She afterwards returned to her native town to hve. The house had been originally a two-story building, with a room on each side of a central door opening on Front Street. Mrs. Odiorne lengthened the front to Center Street, and added a new entrance. She was a very bright woman, very kind and hospitable to other children, and doing her utmost to make her home pleas- ant to her own. Many hours have I spent in play in that house. She had two daughters and one son. The younger daughter, a beautiful girl, became engaged to Mr. Samuel T. Hildreth, a handsome, talented young man, ^iio died soon after graduating with distinction at Harvard. The young lady herself died of consumption about the same time. The oldest daughter, ]\Irs. Chelhs, FRONT STREET IN 1830 41 lived to advanced age. The son was of more than com- mon abihty, but erratic. A sister of Mrs. Odiorne, Serena by name, well known to our present older people, for many years kept a thread and needle store in a little seven by nine building that stood between her father's house and the one now owned by Mr. Wetherell. It was a curious little room, that three customers would about fill, but it was a won- derful store. Things could be found there that could not be got elsewhere, so it was said. As I recollect the store, it contained thread and needles, ribbons, fine laces and handkerchiefs, and everything of the nicest kind. The wonder was that so much could be kept in so small a place. It was patronized by ladies exclusively; and Miss Serena, as she was called, did a profitable business, and retired from her labors respected, and with a good competency. In the next house, when I was very young, lived the Eastham family. I can just remember their being there. Later Colonel Walker occupied it. He was for a long time the register of deeds. His daughters, Martha and Temperance, helped him, and their beautiful chkog- raphy can be seen in the registry books of the years of the twenties and before. Colonel Walker came from Portsmouth and hved here until he gave up the office, when he moved to Derry to live with a married daughter. Martha married Mr. C. C. P. Gale, who at one time conducted a private school here which I attended. Miss Temperance for many years kept a school for little children. 42 EXETER IN 1830 Crossing the street we come to a gate closing a narrow lane, which led to the house of Mr. John Moulton. This house was moved to Court Street, and is now oc- cupied by Dr. N. E. Soule. It formerly stood where the Unitarian meeting-house now is, and farther along the lane was a large barn. Mr. Moulton was a farmer, and dealt largely in cattle. It was the custom in those days to collect herds of cattle farther north, and drive them by way of Exeter to Brighton, where they were sold, and the drovers sold and traded as they went through the different towns. They- used to put up with Mr. Moulton. His death was caused by small pox, which it was supposed he took from some man whom he kept over night. I remember the time very well. My father attended him. After he died, my father was taken quite sick, and it was noised about town that he had taken the disease. It was not so; he had some sort of feverish attack, resulting from the exposure he underwent in this case. People were in such terror of the disease that he even had to assist in the burying of the body. In those days it was impossible to get nurses or assistants in contagious cases, and much outside his regular duties was thrown upon the doctor. My father attended all the cases of small pox in this town and the country around. He was vaccinated only once, with matter which had been obtained from Dr. Jenner and brought from England by a physician of Boston. Mr. Moulton had a number of sons and one daughter. The sons are all dead. The youngest, a namesake of FRONT STREET IN 1830 43 my father's, resided here all his life; an honest, upright man, much trusted and respected by the commu- nity. Across the street was the house of Deacon Sherburne Blake, since replaced by the Baptist church. It was a long, two-storied house, plain in appearance, with two front doors, and a long drawn out ell on Spring Street. A part of it was removed to the corner of Union and Garfield Streets. Of the origin of the house I am ignorant, its occupants I remember well. The deacon came here from Raymond, having amassed a competence there by keeping a country store. He left the business in the hands of his two sons, who became leading men of the town. They entered largely into the manufactiu'e of palm leaf hats, which were worn almost exclusively during the hot months, being light and cool as well as cheap. The Blakes bought the leaf, which was put out among the famiUes of that vicinity to be braided, the women earning tidy little sums in this industry. I remember the old deacon well in his cinnamon col- ored wig. He was a typical deacon of the old time, positive in his convictions, an observer of all the ordi- nances, and a staunch defender of his creed, not popular with the young, not given to hilarity, but withal a kind neighbor. It was said that in his last sickness, for the last fortnight of his Hfe he took nothing but water. Deacon Blake had five daughters, besides the sons mentioned above — Eleanor, Olive, Dorothy, Shuah, and Abby, all fine women. All married, except Miss Eleanor, an estimable woman, who spent her life in the 44 EXETER IN 1830 old house. She always had boarders, principally Acad- emy students. Deacon Blake built a two-story office building between his house and the old county building; General Marston occupied the upper rooms and Judge French the lower. Nearly opposite was, as described on the old map of Exeter, the ^'seat" of Colonel Nathaniel Gilman, my grandfather, my mother having been born in this house in 1789. He had two wives and eleven children, Mrs. Long surviving the others by many years and reaching the age of ninety-six. Colonel Gilman was a fine speci- men of a man, over six feet, well developed, but not fat, dignified in appearance, with manners of the old school. He had a good memory, and took pleasure in telling his grandchildren stories of what happened long ago. He remembered much about the Revolutionary war, though he was not engaged in it. Being a little young for that, he helped his father in the Treasury office. My grandfather wore a queue all his life,* and I recollect two other men in town who adhered to that fashion, namely Major Pearson, who lived at the top of Town Hill, and a Mr. Rowe, who lived on the Hampton road near Ass Brook. I knew no one in this town in my time *Dr. Perry's mother used to relate that when Governor Gilman, who was the eldest son, was a boy of fom*, his head was shaved and he wore a wig. His brothers, the honorable Nicholas and Nathaniel, wore as boys their own hair with powder. The claim of primogeni- ture was at that time recognized to the extent of giving the oldest son a double portion of the inherited property. When Dr. WilUam Perry was a young man his hair was too thin to furnish a queue, but what hair he had was regularly tied with a ribbon. FRONT STREET IN 1830 45 who wore small clothes, though I think I have seen them worn by someone from out of town. My grand- father always wore what is called a swallow-tailed coat, and ruffled shirt front. The material of the coat was broadcloth. A cheaper cloth, called satinet, of wool and cotton, was much used. Colonel Oilman kept open house, entertained a great deal, and was liberal and kind to the poor. His second wife, Dorothea Folsom, was short but good looking, fond of society and hospitable. I think she usually wore a turban. The children and grandchildren all used to be invited to the house for Thanksgiving, and there was a very large tableful, between twenty and thirty. We children enjoyed the day very much. After the dinner we played old-fashioned games. In those days the preparation for Thanksgiving day was quite a task for the women of the house, for they had not only to provide for their own family, but also for many retainers, who generally came in a day or two before for their portion. It was very willingly given, for many of the old Enghsh cus- toms in this regard remained. The next house to Colonel Gilman's was built and occupied by the Rev. Dr. Isaac Hurd. Among the stories relating to peculiarities of the old Exeter people was one to the effect that Mr. Benj. Clark Gihnan was so much annoyed because Mr. Hiu"d put the foundation of his house so high above ground, that he would not speak to him. Mr. Hurd was born in Charlestown, Massachusetts, the son of a wealthy merchant of Boston, and had 46 EXETER IN 1830 educational advantages abroad as well as in this country. He was called by the Second Parish as an Unitarian, but before he was settled he changed his views. The parish, though controlled by that denomination, agreed to settle him, with the condition that he should exchange with the neighboring Unitarian clergynaen. Dr. Hurd was a very small man; he could not have weighed much over an hundred pounds. He was quiet and re- served, unapproachable to us young people. He seemed to throw a cold spell over the room when he came in. I think he was of a retiring disposition, but can speak of his demeanor only from the standpoint of a boy. He was a thoroughly cultivated gentleman, finely edu- cated, a pohshed writer, and was esteemed and respected by the community, though he did not mix freely with it. I think he held the pastorate of that society until he died, though in the last years he had a colleague. He married in this town Mrs. Emery, a daughter of Samuel Folsom. Their only son, Francis F., was a fine man; he studied medicine, but never practised, having an ample fortune from his father. He died unmarried, and left fifty thousand dollars to the Philhps Exeter Academy. Mrs. Hurd lived a number of years after her husband. A niece. Miss Ehzabeth Stevens, was brought up by her, a handsome, bright girl, and very popular. She married Professor Norton, of Yale College, and died only a few years ago. We now come to the house owned by the Academy, in which Dr. Abbot Hved. Dr. Abbot was married twice, FRONT STREET IN 1830 47 and had three children. The son by the first marriage became a minister. He was considered very promising, but died quite young. The second son went to Bangor into some business, but I beheve he was never very successful. The daughter married Dr. Gorham, of this town. The second Mrs. Abbot was a Perkins of Boston, whose brothers became very prominent and rich mer- chants. Mrs. Abbot was very proud and aristocratic in her feehngs, though among congenial friends she was much thought of. Dr. Abbot had not a handsome face, but he was of very dignified presence, with all the old school manners and politeness. He took off his hat to his youngest scholars when he met them. Dr. Abbot was held in high esteem and reverence by his pupils; the boys stopped their play when he passed by them, taking off their hats. He was also much venerated by the alumni of the institution. He resigned the year that I left for college, so that I knew no other principal and my recommendation to college was signed by him. The next house was that of Mr. John Houston, a Scotchman by birth, who had formerly lived in New- foundland. Passing through Exeter, he was so much pleased with the town that he came and bought this house. He was our richest citizen, leaving at his death, it was said, over a hundred thousand dollars, a very large sum for those days. He had a wife and three daugh- ters, one of whom married Mr. Alfred Haven, of Ports- mouth. Mr. Houston hved in more style than anyone here, having his coach and pair. I remember him well, a short, compactly built man, pleasant and sociable, 48 EXETER IN 1830 who took his snuff out of a handsome silver snuff box, kept a big, white dog tied in his yard, and in manner of hfe was thoroughly EngHsh. After his death the house was sold and his daughters left town. I have an impression that a family by the name of Coffin had lived here before Mr. Houston, but that was farther back than I can remember. In the next house dwelt Jotham Lawrence, Esq., a lawyer of abihty, a native of Epping; he married Miss Conner, and built this house. He had a large family, eight children I think. Alexander, the second son, went to college, studied law, and opened an office in Washington. He was a man of fine talents, and acquired reputation and a large business there. The daughters, with their mother, by their pleasant manners and love of entertaining made a very social house, and it was much resorted to by the young people of the town. For some reason Mr. Lawrence failed to reach in his profession the place which he was entitled to, but in later days his judgment was much prized by the younger men. None of his children is now living. We come now to the house of the Misses Eliza and Lucy Bell. This house was built by a Captain EUery, on land in the neighborhood where the Giddings and Wadleighs hved at a later time. Many a seafaring man, when tired of the sea, has purchased a farm, but in time has found that farm life was not all he pictured it. So it was with Captain EUery; after some time trying it, he gave it up, and moved his house into town, to its present place. The ell was added afterwards. FRONT STREET IN 1830 Ad The first person I can recall as living there was Colonel Rogers, and I was very young when he hved there. Colonel Rogers was a fine looking man, and one of the most active and influential citizens. He was interested in many business enterprises, was cashier of the old Exeter bank, and chairman of the board of selectmen for fifteen years. He left this house for a farm on the Hampton road, now owned by Mr. Scott, where I was a frequent visitor. Colonel Rogers died in 1837, leaving a large family. His daughter Frances became the wife of Captain Chadwick. Only one of his children is now living, Mr. Jacob R^ogers, a prominent and wealthy citizen of Lowell, Massachusetts. Captain John Sleeper lived in this house very early in the thirties. He had been a sea captain, but came here and started the News-Letter. Later he moved to Lowell and started a paper there, and finally went to Boston. There he estabhshed the Boston Journal, which became a very popular paper, and a very rehable one it was too. After many years he gave up his con- nection with the Journal, and started a family paper, but it was not a success. I remember him as a pleasant, cordial man, very quick and energetic in manner. He wrote interesting stories of sea life, which were collected and published in book form. His wife was a sister of Mrs. Cobbs. They had two sons and two daughters. The house in general appearance is the same now as it was in my boyhood. It was bought, after Captain Sleeper left it, by Mr. John Swett, who lived in it for a few years. Mr. Swett was agent for the powder mills 50 EXETER IN 1830 established near Perkins Hill, then called Gordon^s HilL The Swett family consisted of a wife and two daughters, and a very pleasant family it was. They left Exeter and afterwards lived in Philadelphia. On the next lot was an old two-storied house, originally painted red, but much faded. It was occupied by Mr. Richard Lovering, who had been engaged in the shoe business in New York, lived here for a time and after^ wards returned there. He had three sons and one daugh- ter. Of Richard, the oldest, I know nothing. Albert for some years conducted a bookstore in Boston and after in New York. Arthur, the youngest, went to Mobile, and died a short time ago. This house was torn down and the present one built, by whom I have for- gotten. Across the street from this house were two large elm trees, one of which is now standing. Under those trees was the dwelling place of Jeremiah Dow, an active busi- ness man, who carried on a tannery on Tan Lane, now called Academy Street. He afterwards sold to Jeremiah Robinson both the tannery and the house and moved into the Judge Peabody house on Water Street. Mr. Dow had three daughters, and I think two sons. The daughters I knew well, but have no recollection of the sons. There was a story that one of the sons cut off a toe, and the doctor sewed it on upside down. The daughters were fine, estimable women. The oldest, Mrs. Ednah Dow Cheney, spent all her married life in Boston; the others married, and lived for some time here. The house on Front Street was a very comfortable one, of FRONT STREET IN 1830 51 the old style. It is standing, near the original spot, and is occupied by Mrs. Perkins and Mr. Read. We will cross the street again to the three-storied house now owned by Mr. Belknap. This house was built by Benjamin Lovering, a brother of Richard. He had a large family, some seven children, mostly daughters. The youngest son, Charles, I remember. Mr. Lovering carried on the shoe business in a building which now forms the ell of the next house. He after- wards moved to Portsmouth, selling his house to a Mr. Elliot. About that time Whitfield^s Lane was made into a street and the name of Elliot was given to it. Mr. Lovering has one daughter here now, Uving in the old Lovering house, farther up the street, where her grandfather lived. She is the only one of the family now living, I believe. Charles Lovering came back from New York, and died here. About the next house I am somewhat in doubt. My impression is that there was no house there at the early date of which I am writing, but that what is now the ell then sat farther back, was used as a shoe shop, and was later moved forward and added to. The first person to occupy it as a residence was Retire Parker, who came here from Bradford, Massachusetts, and entered into partnership with Jeremiah Robinson in the tanning industry. Mr. Parker was a man of business capacity, upright and possessing energy and good judgment. He prospered in business and was more or less concerned in town affairs. He died here, leaving two sons, one now dead, the other living in Boston; and a daughter, married and living in Springfield, Massachusetts. 52 EXETER IN 1830 The next house was an old and shabby one, rented, at my earhest recollection, to two families. One was that of Mr. Hoyt, who was, I think, a brother or related to Jewett Hoyt, of whom I have before spoken. Mr. Hoyt had sons whom I used to meet when playing in that neighborhood. I never knew what became of them, neither do I know what Mr. Hoyt's occupation was. It was said of him that he could walk to Boston in a day; Boston was then forty-eight miles by road from Exeter. The other family in the house was that of Winthrop Tilton. The house was sold to the Hon. Amos Tuck, on his settling here, and all his children, with perhaps the exception of the eldest, were born here. He put it into good repair and lived there until he built his new house farther up the street. It was afterwards bought by Samuel Tilton, of Boston, son of Winthrop Tilton; and his parents, with his maiden sister, lived there until they all died, tenderly and com- fortably cared for by a good son. The old house owned by Mrs. Wentworth was in my boyhood the home of her grandfather, Mr. Benjamin Lovering, a soldier of the Revolutionary War. He was a very old man as I remember him, and was always called '^ Daddy" by the boys. He was a short man, but had been famous as a wrestler, a champion of this sport in the army. It was told that a Vermont giant came to Exeter on purpose to throw him; it was not long, how- ever, before the giant himself was laid in the dust. Mr. Lovering had three sons and one daughter. The daugh- ter married a Mr. Lafferty, and built the next house, FRONT STREET IN 1830 53 now owned by Mr. Holmes; but this house was not built until after the time of which I write. Mr. Lafferty was a shoemaker who worked for the Loverings and died leaving his wife in very comfortable circum- stances. The brick house was built by Mr. John Williams, a bright, active man, who, with his brother Benjamin, carried on a big Printery on Spring Street in a building now owned by Patrick Connors. Benjamin Williams built a brick house similar to his brother^ s, back of the Printery, now the residence of Mr. Anderson. They did a large business in printing books, which were sent to New York and sold in what were called the trades sales. It was all done by auction. I think they printed for the market as many books as any house in New England. John Williams died, Benjamin fell into bad habits, and the business came to an end, whether through failure or not I cannot say. It had been one of the thriving industries of the town. Some of the books published by the Williams brothers are to be seen in the Town Library. Both brothers had children; Benjamin had one son who lived in New York, of whom it was said that his was the heaviest weight of any man in the city. If I remember right, he weighed over four hundred pounds. I think no one of the two families is Hving. Mr. John Williams was an ardent politician, and I can distinctly remember him discussing party principles with some man of the other side, on the lower floor of the old Comrt house on Town Meeting Day. It was the custom on 54 EXETER IN 1830 that day to have disputes of that sort, but the meeting upstairs was very orderly. Across the street from the Tilton house, in an old two storied house painted white with green blinds, dwelt Mrs. Haliburton. Her husband was a sea captain of Portsmouth. I do not remember his living here, and I have the impression that he was lost at sea. It was said that the singular looking tree which stands in the yard in front of Mr. Charles Merrill's house was brought by the captain from some foreign land, and set out there. Mrs. Haliburton was a kind hearted woman, beloved by the children of the neighborhood, some of whom called her grandma. She maintained herself by keeping Academy students. She was dignified and ruled her house well, and was respected by the boys. I remember her, but was not so well acquainted with her as the boys living in her neighborhood. The house sat directly on the ground, with one very low step at its entrance. It was moved to Academy Street and is there now. The next house was of two stories, painted white, with a hall running through it. One of its fireplaces was surrounded by Dutch tiles, which were very pleasing to me, and I never tired of looking at them. I do not know the earlier occupants of this house. At this time it was owned, I think, by Mr. Houston, and occupied by Dr. G. L. Soule and his interesting family, which consisted of Mrs. Soule, three boys, one little daughter, and Mrs. Soule's sister, good old '^ Aunt Mary" to us all. I have spent many happy hours in this house, where I was always most kindly welcomed, from as far back as my rec- FRONT STREET IN 1830 55 lections carry me. How much of their ^^ hard gingerbread^' I have eaten! And the boys enjoyed the same treat when they came to our house. The kind mothers of those days always had some ''goody" for the children. There was never a better mother to her children than Mrs. Soule was to hers, and her good training was exemplified in them. Charles, the eldest, was a fortnight older than my- self, and we were very intimate. His nickname was Chick, for nicknames were common in those days. He became a lawyer, and settled in New York, where he died. Dr. Nicholas Emery was the second, a gentleman so well known and so highly respected in Exeter at the present day that I need not comment upon him. It was a great joy to me when he returned to make his home among us. The youngest, Augustus, who became a law- yer and settled in Springfield, was made a Justice of the Supreme Court of Massachusetts; he died a number of years ago. The daughter, Mary, died in childhood. Dr. Soule was very dignified in appearance, with old- school manners. He was a pleasant conversationalist, full of anecdotes which he delighted in telling, and told remarkably well. Mrs. Soule was a very pleasing and attractive lady, beloved by old and young, dignified and correct in manner, but not cold, of very bright and pleas- ing countenance. In fine, she was a true lady both in character and demeanor. Before living in the house mentioned above. Dr. Soule resided in the house which stands at the intersection of Front and Linden Streets, known to many as the Sam Tilton house. After the death of Dr. Abbot, Dr. and Mrs. 56 EXETER IN 1830 Soule occupied the house provided for the principal of the Academy, in which they rounded out a good old age. (The Front Street house was afterwards removed, as was also the house built, somewhat later than the time of which I speak, by Major Cobbs. The latter house stands now on Lincoln Street, the residence of Mr. Albert N. Dow). In the house now occupied by Mrs. Pennell lived Mrs. Rindge, the widow of a sea captain lost at sea. After his death she came from Portsmouth to Exeter to earn her living by keeping boarders. Her house was a popular one with Academy students. She liked good living her- self, and so did the boys. Mrs. Rindge was a large fleshy woman who had a way of expressing herself which was perhaps more true than polite or refined, but always amusing to the hearer. Her brother, an old sea captain, with his wife and son, lived with her. The next house was Dr. David W. Gorham's, and was built by Dr. Abbot for his only daughter, who married Dr. Gorham. Some one asked Dr. Abbot why he built so much out of the way (the situation was not then a central one for a physician) and he replied that it would make no difference, where merit was concerned. Dr. Gorham was a practising physician for a long time in Exeter, had quite an extensive practice, and was held in much regard by his patients. He was a gentleman of pleasant manners and a happy disposition. Mrs. Gorham was quiet and reserved, but to her intimates very bright and entertaining. There were three children, two daugh- ters and a son. One daughter died young; the other, FRONT STREET IN 1830 57 Mrs. Sawyer, is still living. The son used to play with our set of boys. He grew up to fine character as a man, though much hampered by ill health — his plan of life of necessity completely changed. Across the street from Dr. Gorham's was the house owned and occupied by Mr. John Lovering, a brother of the Benjamin and Richard before spoken of. This house was moved to Pine Street, and became the residence of Messrs. Brown and Warren. The house now on the lot was built by Alva Wood, Esq. Mr. Lovering married the daughter of Rev. Daniel Rogers, the pastor of the Second Parish, and had a number of children. I remember foiu* boys, and there were some daughters. One son, named Nathaniel, was always spoken of by the nickname '^ Polly,'' owing to the femininity of his character. He went through the Academy and became a minister of some denomination, and died not long since. He came to see me a short time before his death. Mr. Lovering died here, but the sons removed to Lynn and engaged in the shoe business there. The oldest son was the father of John W. Lovering, who was either mayor or postmaster of Lynn and afterwards a member of Congress. In one part of the house lived Miss Nancy and Miss Patty Rogers, daughters of the Rev. Daniel. They were considered very saintly and much revered for their good- ness. I can remember going with my mother to call on Miss Patty, a kind old lady of whom my mother was very fond. The Rogers family was well connected in Boston. Mr Lovering carried on the making of shoes in an at- 58 EXETER IN 1830 tached building in the rear of his house. No machinery was used in the manufacture of shoes in that day. Across the street a Uttle farther up was the house of Dennett Oilman. It was built of brick in the old style, and must have been very fine in its day. I do not know when it was built nor who built it, neither do I know much about Dennett Oilman, but I remember him as a man who had seen better times. He had one daughter, a pleasing woman, who married Mr. Edmund Elliot, and died in middle age. The brick house was torn down and three houses were built on the lot, by Captain Charles Oill (the Seminary house), Hon. Amos Tuck, and Judge Stickney. After this there was no house on Front Street until you reached the home of Doctor (so called) William Flood. It is still standing, a story-and-a-half house with a peaked roof, above the entrance of Union Street. The Doctor was called in veterinary cases, and also did almost all of the butchering of hogs in the village. In that day almost every family kept a pig, and made great use of the product. Every well-to-do family kept a pork barrel, which was packed full at pig-killing time, and the spareribs were put up in barrels filled with snow to be eaten by the family, for fresh pork was not debarred in those days. FamiHes exchanged with one another their roasts. One killing earlier would let his neighbor have a portion to be repaid from the neighbor's pig when that was killed. Many sausages were made, and a very ac- ceptable present it was when a plateful came in from a friend or neighbor; they were sure to be good. FRONT STREET IN 1830 59 The Doctor's veterinary practice was not from books, and I cannot say how much experience had benefited him; but some one had to be called on in emergencies, and he was willing and perfectly confident to assume the position. I am afraid the poor animal, if it had its choice, would have begged to be left to the care that nature could give. The Doctor meant well, and was sure he knew. He kept all sorts of herbs, and different kinds of animal oils, which were much more used in those days than at present. I can see him now, a bustling little man coming down the street with his wheelbarrow, a half hogshead upon it, and his rope and knife — a sad sight to poor piggy. In fine. Doctor Flood was one of the characters of the town. He had two sons and three daughters, and I think one daughter is living. There was no other house on this side of the street until we come to the dwelling of a family named Steele, near the railroad. Crossing the track and passing the old Burying Ground, we come to a long, old fashioned house in which the Leavitts dwelt, and in old times kept an inn. It was the headquarters of the White Cap Society, described in Bell's History of Exeter. I have often heard my grandfather tell of it. The affair took place before the nineteenth century came in. I do not know who were the dupes; if I ever heard them, their names are forgotten. The Leavitts were hatters by trade. The men of those days wore ^'stove-pipes" and they were made of fur; afterwards came those made of silk plush. On this side of the house was a one-story shop for making 60 EXETER IN 1830 hats. I do not know where they were sold, but think it was the custom for those wishing a hat to go and have it made to order. One lasted a good many years; fashion had not much influence then. The Leavitts were prominent among the early settlers of the town. One of the daughters of this family married Mr. Abner Merrill (father of Dr. Abner), and a good kind mother she was. Another was the mother of Mr. William Eobinson, who founded the Seminary. Mr. Samuel Leavitt was the last of the family name to occupy the house, he leaving it to his daughters. Beyond the Leavitt house on the same side of the street were three houses. The first was occupied, I think, at the time of which I speak, by Mrs. Hopkinson. I remember nothing particular of the family except that a daughter was married to a Mr. Miles, a brewer of New York; they used to come to Exeter in the summer. There was a Noyes Hopkinson, who lived opposite the pound; what relation he was to this Mrs. Hopkinson I cannot say. He was an intemperate person and a singular character. On Town Meeting Day he always made a speech, which brought no re- sult except to furnish amusement to the crowd. The house next to Mrs. Hopkinson' s was occupied by a family named Hooke. One of them was always spoken of as '^Sister Hooke''; she was a devout mem- ber of the Christian Baptist Church, commonly called Freewillers, and a very frequent exhorter in their meet- ings. In the next house there dwelt, late in the thirties, a man by the name of Ferguson, who, coming home FRONT STREET IN 1830 61 intoxicated, shot and killed his wife. He was once quite a respectable man, his wife came from a very good family, and the children were nice, also; but the love of liquor ruined him. I think this is the only homicide that has occurred in this town during my life. There was a great deal of intemperance in those days, and drunkards were seen frequently on the streets. There was one woman drunkard who sometimes ap- peared, to the amusement of us boys. The last house on Front Street had served earher as the Academy building before it was removed to this lot. It was the home of Deacon John Gordon, who cultivated the land adjoining, and also carried milk to a few customers in town. As almost every well- to-do family kept a cow, the trade was not very large. I think he was the j&rst to enter the business. The Deacon was very musical, and I can recall him dis- tinctly in the singing seats of the First Church, sawing away on his double bass. Meetings had a great attraction for him; no weather, however severe, would prevent his attendance, and no consideration for his old horse, which I have seen on many cold nights hitched in front of the church. Deacon Gordon had four daughters who grew up to be estimable women, and a son who inherited his father's musical talent. Mrs. Gordon's family were musical also. The Deacon was a good man, firm and stiff in his rehgious belief. A deacon of the old time was entirely different from those that we meet nowadays; they were not the beloved of the boys of their time. I remember a story that 62 EXETER IN 1830 used to be told of an occurrence which took place at a meeting of the Association of Congregational ministers of this county, when the subject of temperance was under discussion. The then minister of the Second Parish of this town made a scathing report of the condition of Exeter regarding the sale and consmnp- tion of ardent spirits, stating that they were even sold from milk wagons. The fun came in when it de- veloped that the only persons who delivered milk about the town were two deacons! The minister's own delegate arose and repudiated the story. This did not happen at the time of which I am writing, but some years afterwards; the mention of deacons brings the story to mind. Let us now retiurn by the other side of Front Street. The first house we come to, after crossing the street at the Gordon house, was situated nearly opposite the Leavitt house. It was an old house; its origin I do not know, but have heard it called the Smith place. It was owned by Captain Nathaniel Oilman, was rented to poor families, and often unoccupied. An Indian baby was born in this house. The next house stood where the shoe shop now is. It was a long, low, one- story building. It was moved, and now stands next to Greeley's marble shop on Winter Street. A Mr. Gilman Hved there. I cannot give his first name, as he was always called Dipper Gilman; the reason for this appellation I never learned. I know nothing of his occupation or his family, but think that his wife was a Loud. Across the railroad, as it now is, townwards, FRONT STREET IN 1830 63 there was a field, partly covered with pine trees. On this lot, which was sandy, Doctor Flood used to bury his dead animals. There was no house the entire dis- tance until you reached the house at the intersection of Front and Linden streets, then called the Hildreth and later the Sam Tilt on house. The easterly portion was built about 1730, by Daniel Gilman, and the rest added twenty-five years later. It was occupied a num- ber of years by Rev. Hosea Hildreth, one of the Acad- emy professors, and I believe Dr. Soule resided in it for a short time. Afterwards Mr. Samuel Tilton bought it, and spent the remainder of his life there. His widow Uved there until a few years ago. Mr. Tilton was an honest, industrious, and respected citizen. In this old house George Whitefield, when he preached his last sermon here, dined with Colonel Daniel Gilman, who sympathized most heartily with his views. That night Mr. Whitefield died. Ten years later Mr. Gilman died suddenly in church during the Sunday service. Between this house and that of Mr. John Lovering, before mentioned, there were no houses; but turning up what is now Linden Street, one came to a two-story brick house owned by Daniel Elliott. Mr. Elliott's wife was a Tilton, sister to Samuel, Joseph, and Winthrop. Two daughters and a son survived them, and all are living in this town at the present time. One daughter married Robert Carter, the other Nathaniel Welch. The house stood close to the street. It was torn down, some time in the seventies, I think, and the land an- nexed to Mr. Henry Moses' estate. 64 EXETER IN 1830 The next house was situated at the entrance to the Campus, a long, narrow, low building of one story in which dwelt Mr. ''Life" Kimball, his wife, son, and daughter. Mr. KimbaH's chief employment was the care of the Court house and County building; and he acted as messenger when the Court was in session; an honest, faithful man. The son was a failure. He went into the navy dinging the war, and I have no recollection of his ever returning. The daughter married Mr. Mark Holmes and is still Uving. Near the large elm trees, about at the centre of the Campus, stood the residence of Mr. Marsh. I am not sure of his Christian name, though I think it was either Jeremiah or Samuel; but he was usually spoken of by the name of ''Candy" Marsh among the boys who were his customers. The house, of a story and a half, was old and weather beaten. In the floor of the room as we entered, was a trap door which opened on the cellar. Mr. Marsh was a kind-hearted man of no great force and hampered by a lame leg. His hving was obtained principally by selhng molasses candy and small beer, and he used to have a round cake, which I believe he called lemon cake. I can recall very vividly the old man limping down the street, wheehng his barrow. He had an ordinary wheelbarrow, the body entirely enclosed. Inside was a tin box with tin sheets, between which the sticks of candy were placed — and they were generous sticks, sold one for a cent. There was a board with holes cut, in which the bottles of beer were securely placed. I think the beer was sold for two FRONT STREET IN 1830 65 cents a tumbler. It was very good! I have of ten wished for a drink of it since. I do not remember how the cake was carried. The opening to these dehghts was through the top of the barrow, which was a very handy cart for the purpose. Mr. Marsh and his movable confection- ery store attended all gatherings, always was stationed at the Court house while Coiurt was in session, and used to appear at the Academy steps at recess and intermission, though cents were not plenty in boys' pockets in those days. His beer was made entirely of roots and herbs gathered in the woods, and was very foaming. I do not know of a more satisfying drink on a hot day than a glass of this beer, especially when you went to his house and drank it there, he going down through that trap door and bringing up a bottle cool from the cellar. We children thought his candy very nice also. The varied confectionery of today was entirely unknown then, not much but peppermints and long sticks of sugar candy being for sale. Our coppers went most often for a cent's worth of cask raisins, which were put loose into our trousers pocket. Mrs. Marsh was a woman of more than common abihty. There were four sons, and she pushed at least two of them through the Academy, one becoming a clergyman. The father's last days were made easy by the kindness of his son. Back of this house, close to the woods, lived a man by the name of Willey. I do not remember what he did for a Hving. He had a family, and one of his daughters 66 EXETER IN 1830 married Mr. Joseph Tilton, the father of J. Warren Tilton. The next house was a story and a half house which belonged to my father; it was sold to Mr. Joseph Tilton after he married Miss Willey. Mr. Tilton lived with us for many years, working in the starch mill, driving the loads of starch to Lowell, and assisting in many ways about the house — carrying my sister to school on stormy days. He was always patient and kind to us little children, honest, capable, and devoted to my father's interests. We were all very fond of him. His oldest son was named for my father. After purchasing the house he altered and enlarged it. It is still standing there, the second house from the Campus. Afterward, he bought out the business of soap making from his brother, and carried it on successfully for many years, his son, Mr. J. Warren Tilton, succeeding him in the same line. In my boyish days we had not the soaps for washing that are now sold, so all families used what is called soft soap, and each family used to make its own supply for the year. A hogshead full of ashes furnished the lye, and all fat and grease was set aside for this purpose. This prac- tice was continued until soap factories were established. I think the first one here was built by Mr. John Clement, on Captain Oilman's lane near the river. He also made tallow candles, which were much used in those days. I can remember when we made them for use in our house. The next, and last, house on this (the east) side of the street was a very old house with the gable end toward FRONT STREET IN 1830 67 the street, the top story or attic overhanging the first. I have the impression that it was a garrison house. I do not remember who Hved there, but think it was at one time the home of one of the old time colored per- sons. The woods, called Cuffee's Woods, came close up to the yard. I cannot tell whether this house was torn down or moved away. On the opposite side of the street, the house now standing, which was for- merly the farmhouse of Mr. Henry Moses, was built by Mr. Greeley Batchelder, a mason by trade; his father and family lived there, Mr. Batchelder, I think, went to California. This house was built some time later than the period of which I am writing. The next house, re- turning towards the town, was a small house, I think the one now owTied by the heirs of William P. Tilton. In it dwelt Mr. Winthrop Tilton. The house adjoins the Cemetery, which was not laid out until after the time of which I am writing. It has all been filled within my memory. I remember the talk in relation to it. Many people wanted it located on Powder House Point; the principal argument against this was the inacces- sibihty of the situation, as there was only a narrow lane along the river side, in front of the factory. No thought was taken of the possible growth of the village, which was started by the building of the railroad through its western end. There was no building between the house last mentioned and that of Mr. Samuel Tilton. As I close this sketch, I beheve that I have mentioned every house on both sides of Front Street from Water Street to the end. Of the families who dwelt there 68 EXETER IN 1830 nearly seventy-five years ago I have written down my boyish recollections, without much premeditation, just as they came into my mind at the time of penning them. I hope that these recollections may be of interest and perhaps useful to some seeker after the past of the old town. IN THE THIRTIES Republished from the Bulletin of The Phillips Exeter Academy for March, 1907 * IN accordance with the editor's request, I will attempt for the Bulletin a description of the Philhps Exeter Academy and its school-building as they were when I entered more than three score and ten years ago, be- coming a pupil in 1833. Although so many years have passed, my memories of the school and of my fellow- students are still clear. As far as is known, only two who were members of the school when I entered are living, Edward H. Daveis, Esq., of Portland, Maine, and Mr. John G. Oilman, of Exeter, both of whom came into the school in 1832. If we three are the oldest of the alumni living, it is a singular coincidence that we are all descendants of one old family of Exeter, being grandsons of two brothers Oilman. The Academy at that time had a very high reputa- tion, although the number of its pupils was limited to about seventy-five. They came largely from New England, with a few from the Middle States and the South. The faculty had but three members, Dr. Abbot, Dr. Soule, and Mr. Francis Bowen, teachers respectively of Latin, Oreek, and English. In the old catalogues appears the name of Rev. Isaac Hurd, '' Theological Instructor," but while I was a student he only came 70 EXETER IN 1830 in once or twice and gave a lecture. Mr. Bowen left in 1835, having been appointed to a professorship in Har- vard College. He was succeeded by Mr. William H. Shackford, a fine scholar and a faithful teacher. Mr. Henry French came in as an instructor in 1836, to assist Dr. Abbot, and was very popular with his scholars. Neither of these promising young men lived to serve the Academy long, the former dying in 1842, the latter in 1840. Dr. Abbot rounded out his fifty years of ser- vice in 1838. I knew no other principal. He was a very courtly, dignified man, with old-school manners. His characteristics as a teacher were well summed up by Mr. Everett, at the dinner given to the Doctor on his retirement, in the Latin phrase suaviter in modo, fortiter in re. Dr. Soule became principal after I left the Academy, and followed the general policy inaugu- rated by Dr. Abbot. He was a noticeable figure, dignified and gentlemanly in manner, an interesting conversation- alist, and unsurpassed as a classical teacher. As I have said, the number of students was limited to seventy-five or eighty, the number that could be seated in the school-room. Later in Dr. Soule' s admin- istration the room was enlarged by throwing into it the main entry to the building. We went to school in the warm weather at half-past seven in the morning, re- maining until half-past eleven, with an intermission of twenty-five minutes. In winter the hours were from eight to twelve, with a fifteen-minute recess. The afternoon session began at two o'clock and continued until five, except in the short days, when we were dis- IN THE THIRTIES 71 missed earlier, as there was no means of lighting the rooms. There were half-hohdays on Wednesdays and Saturdays. .The course of study for entrance to college embraced three years. Many remained through the foiu*th year, studjdng the course prescribed for the freshman year in the college of their choice, and entering as sopho- mores. As boys were admitted to the Academy at the age of ten, they could enter college very young, if able to follow the course. There was, however, no strict classification. I finished Viri Romce with a class of eight; but as the others were all much older than I, when they began Cicero, Dr. Abbot thought it too hard for me, and I recited Caesar by myself. Those prepar- ing for college began the study of Latin with the grammar, and this was followed by Liber Primus, Latin reader, Viri Romce, Csesar, Cornehus Nepos, Cicero, and all of Virgil; in Greek we studied the grammar, then a little book called the Delectus, and later Jacobs's Greek Reader; in English, arithmetic and algebra. If we were going to Harvard, we used Euler's algebra; if to Dartmouth or Yale, Day's. We also had exercises in tiu"ning English into Latin, and once in a while an English composition was required. In addition, there was regular instruction in penmanship. This is the course as I remember it, and it will be seen that our instruction was mostly in the dead languages. There was also an English department giving a three-year course entirely distinct from the classical course. The scholars in this department studied and recited in what 72 EXETER IN 1830 was called the English room, and those preparing for college went to this room to recite in the mathematics required for entrance to college. No other course in EngHsh was required for college, nor any other modern language, though Mr. Shackford had some pupils in French. The regular English course I knew very little about, but I judge that it was a good one. Dr. Abbot used to say in his little speech (he was not a wordy man) at the beginning of a new year that he considered us young gentlemen, and meant to treat us as such. This principle he carried out faithfully. He was greatly respected by his pupils. He took off his hat and bowed courteously on meeting any of them; and whenever he appeared in the yard, the boys took off their caps as he went by, and stopped their play until he had passed through the gate. I do not remem- ber that he ever twitted a boy for any peculiarity or made him the subject of a joke or the laughing-stock of others. The same may be said of the other teachers. They were firm and kept strict discipline, but they were always gentlemen. The students stood up on the entrance of the instruct- or and remained standing until he had walked up the aisle to his seat. Each room had a head monitor, a 'Hardy'' monitor, and two or three inspectors. The head monitor, mounted in the topmost seat, was the chief ruler when the instructor was absent; and the ''tardy" monitor kept a list of absences and tardinesses. The inspectors maintained order in the school-room during recess and noontime, and reported any disorder* IN THE THIRTIES 73 These inspectors were as a general rule the most un- popular boys in school, as they were very apt to magnify their office, and the others delighted to annoy them. On Saturday the monitors handed their lists of absences and tardinesses to Dr. Abbot, when they were read by him before the whole school, and other infractions of the rules were also published. This gathering up of the week's delinquencies went by the name of ^Hhe bill." Dr. Abbot read it with impressiveness, received the ex- cuses, and imposed the punishments. For small mis- demeanors the offender had to sweep the room, and for more flagrant ones to sweep it for a week. The richer boys used to hire the poorer ones to sweep for them, so the penalty was not very severe. Boys were very rarely suspended or expelled. They boarded in good families in the town and were under good influences. They were treated as members of the family and subject to its discipline. If there was trouble in the house, the head of the family usually settled it without carrying it to the faculty. The price for board and room in the best places was not more than two dollars and a half a week. Tuition was fourteen dollars a year, payable to Judge Jeremiah Smith, the treasurer, and president of the board of trustees. We played ball in the spring and kicked football in the fall; skating and coasting were the only amusements of the winter. I remember one old custom which was handed down to the boys of my time. When the first snow came, the older boys used to wash the faces of the new ones. At times also ^Hown and gown'' conflicts 74 EXETER IN 1830 burst out. The aggressive ^Hownies" were the older boys in the pubHc schools and the young apprentices, of whom there was a large number in town. At this time the school owned but two buildings, the recitation-building and the pleasant old-fashioned dwell- ing-house for the principal, which is still in use, much altered in appearance. As there is no record, I am led to believe, of the plan of the old Academy, I will try to describe it accurately, hoping to bring back some pleas- ant memories to those who long ago studied within its walls, or sat anxiously waiting for the welcome order to '^ strike the bell.^' It was a well-proportioned and hand- some structure, built of wood in what is called the colonial style, painted white with green blinds. The central portion was of two stories, having on each side a one-story wing with a narrow veranda across the front. A walk between two rows of trees running at right angles to the street led directly to the main entrance in the center of the building. From this main entrance an ample hall led through to a corresponding door at the back. On the right of the entrance was a room occupied by the library of the Golden Branch Society. Adjoining this was a small room sometimes used by the English instructor. Back of these was a space contain- ing a broad staircase, and back of the stair another room, called the '^philosophical room," which in my time was not used. I think it contained some anti- quated physical apparatus. Half-way down the entry, on the left, a door opened into the Latin room, which extended the whole depth IN THE THIRTIES 75 of the building, and was used for prayers, which were held morning and evening, week-days and Sundays. From the door a central aisle ran through the room to a large chimney and fireplace. In this aisle stood a cast- iron stove, its pipe running nearly the whole width of the room to the chimney. The stove warmed the room most of the time, but in extreme cold the great fireplace also was piled high with burning wood. Rows of pine desks and benches, unpainted and well marked by pocket-knives, rose on an incline from the fireplace towards the entrance. Each desk accommodated two boys, and its front supplied in some measure the lack of a back-rest on the bench before it. The rear seats were two steps above the floor, and in one of these, close by the door, the monitor sat. The seats were known as '^ boxes.'' Dr. Abbot's place was at the front corner of the room, in a kind of octagonal pulpit raised a couple of steps from the floor. Against the front wall stood the inclosed recitation-bench, built like a pew with a panelled barrier in front, in which seven or eight boys could be seated. A larger class spread over into the adjoining boxes. To hear a recitation the teacher must tiu-n half round, and then saw his class only in per- spective. Another pulpit occupied the opposite corner, but in my time it was unused. There was nothing to enliven the monotony of the room, not a picture nor a cast, nor even a map. The only ornament was Dr. Phillips's old, tall family clock with decorated case, which unfortunately was lost in the fire. Each wing contained a recitation-room similarly 76 EXETER IN 1830 arranged, but smaller. The one in the westerly wing was called the Greek room; that in the easterly, the English room. The latter had a small blackboard. There were entrances to both these rooms from the verandas. From the Latin room you could pass through an entry to the Greek room, but there was no access to the English room except by going out of doors. Under the central portion of the building was a deep cellar, usually filled with great quantities of wood. It contained a large fireplace, and a little room called by the boys ^Hhe dungeon," from a tradition that in former times pupils were sent there in punishment for small misdemeanors. The stairway between the Golden Branch room and the philosophical room led to the hall above. From the upper landing also opened a small room containing the Academy library, which consisted largely of old sermons and some history, scarcely ever read. The tradition about this room was that boys were brought in here to be flogged. Nothing of that kind was done in my day, and I never heard of any one who had known of it. From the landing a steep flight of stairs ascended to the attic. This was unfinished, showing the lath and plaster ceiling of the room below. A walk along the beams led under the cupola, where hung the bell-rope; and here the bell-ringer had to come to perform his office. The cupola was of good size, with windows, and the woodwork was cut with the initials and the full names of many boys. There is a tradition that Daniel Webster^s was among them, but I do not remember to have seen it. IN THE THIRTIES 77 Except for the landing and the little Ubrary, the hall occupied the whole of the second story. It had at its western end a stage and side scenes. I never knew it to be used for any piu-pose but the yearly '^ exhibition/' which took place at the end of the school year, usually about the twentieth of August. It can thus be seen that we were confined to these rooms and these uncomforta- ble seats dm-ing the larger portion of the hot summer. Our instructors worked assiduously, and were never absent unless compelled by sickness. There were three vacations in the year of three weeks each. There was only one social event during the whole year and that was the exhibition. The exercises consisted of a salutatory and a valedictory, dissertations, and an oration, together with dialogues, usually in Latin. There was music, and an ode written by one of the stu- dents was sung. About a fortnight before the day plans began to be made for trimming the hall. The evergreens had to be collected, and every boy had to invite his particular girl to come and assist. They worked in the early mornings and on holiday afternoons, and each girl was escorted to and from the Academy by her partner at every meeting. They picked off the twigs of the evergreens, tied them in bunches, and tacked them over the sides and front of the stage, interspersing them with hop-blooms. The effect was very pretty. Long festoons of the greens were hung around the hall also. Many families had young girl visitors at this season, some coming year after year; and older people of char- acter and dignity thought it worth while to come to 78 EXETER IN 1830 Exeter for the occasion. There was no levee or ball, but there was a good deal of entertaining in private families. It was a very joyous season, and gave us young people much happiness. Even now the pleas- ures of those festivals are still fresh in my memory. Nothing was for mere show, but simpUcity and good taste were the characteristics of those days. The old Academy burned on the night of the seven- teenth of December, 1870. The fire was said to have been caused by the contact of hot ashes with the saw- dust on the floor of the cellar. It had eaten its way into the sohd oak framework before it was discovered, when it was hopeless to try to fight it with the feeble hand-engines of that day and the scanty supply of water. There was litUe to do but stand by and watch the flames gradually devour the building. The fire raged for hours. A heavy cloud of illuminated smoke sprin- kled with sparks blew towards the river in a grand ajch, — a beautiful but sad spectacle. OUTDOOR PARTIES OPPOSITE the farmhouse of the late Hemy G. Moses on Linden Street was a queer old house, and contiguous to that was a very pretty growth of hard wood trees. It was known as ^^Cuffee's Woods." The grove was a favorite resort for the young boys and girls in their walks. The other places frequented were the Eddy, and a place near the sawmill on the Brentwood road, which bore the high-soxmding name of the ''Vale of Avoca." It was the custom of that time on hohdays, for the young men, especially the students of the Academy, to get up a ''Walk." Each one would select and invite a girl; the company would start from an appointed place, and spend the afternoon in one of these groves. The principal amusement was conversation; rarely were there games or eatables. Sometimes when they went to the Eddy some one would row up in a boat, and that would be used in rowing short distances. There were not many boats on the river at that time. The Eddy in later times became a popular resort for individuals and large parties, the fine old pines and the winding river making it a very attractive place. The removal of the pines was lament- ed by all. COLLEGE EXPENSES Extracts from the accounts kept by William G. Perry of his expenses at Dartmouth College during his senior year. The items represent the expenditures of a well-to-do student. While they illustrate the simplicity of college life in the '40s, they may also afford some slight suggestion toward the study of comparative cost of living. Oil at 37 cents per quart is costly compared with kerosene at 12 cents per gallon, but it was evidently sparingly used. Board at the most expensive boarding house in Hanover cost the student Perry $2.25 per week. An important feature of his wardrobe was a green broadcloth cloak with silver clasps. Fare up here and expenses $6.00 For furniture 4.73 Cleaning Room and moving .78 Ticket for Lecture ... .25 Hair cutting 11 Society tax 1.40 Pears and Plums .... .6}4 A Peck of Apples 123^ A Quart of Oil 37)^ Hoarhound Candy for cold .05 Tax in Class Society . . .0Q}4 Wood sawing and bringing up 1.21 Cord 03 Blank Book 30 Repairing Pants 20 Liquorice .02 Tuition biU 11.44 Catalogues 1.00 Expenses at training . . 1.723^ Refreshment for myself and two fr 25 Wrapping Paper 09 To the Temperance Society 1.00 Concert 25 Matches 03 2 lbs raisins .25 Post Office Bill 1.01^ Mr. Condit's address . . .19 Oris Root 06M Class Tax 13 1 Qt. Peanuts 8 Wood 873^ Court Plaster 06M 1 Peck of Apples 123^ Butler's Analogy 623^ Paid the Barber 623^ Quart of oil 373^ Entry tax 18M COLLEGE EXPENSES 81 Gloves and sundries . . .90 January 1, 1842 Fare up and expenses . . 4.16 A sheet iron Fireboard . . .61 Wood . 3.50 A qt of Oil 31 Wafers and a bottle Ink . .12J^ Hair Cutting 12 Board Bill 25.40 Post Office BiU 1.26 1 Pound Raisins 123^ Summer Term May 29th, 1842 Fare up and expenses . . 5.82 Term BiU 16.14 Board Bill 32.00 Mending Pin 123^ Ice creams 25 Horseback ride 373^ Monthly Concert 18 Scarf 373^ Edwards on the Will . . .92 Ice Creams 25 J^ doz Buttons 63^ GoldPm 4.25 At Moose Mountain . . .25 A Doz Lemons 33 Society tax and Diploma . 1.873^ Concert 25 For mending Boots ... .50 1 Pair Gloves 33 Filling Diploma and Case .75 A Pen Knife 1.50 A Tooth Brush 20 Post Office Bill 1.32 Coleridge's Works ... 1.80 1 Ride 1.00 Expenses at Haverhill . . 2.37H 1 book out of the Library .123^ Tax 1.50 A COLORED FOLK IN OLD EXETER A Fragment from a Notebook SONG that the Exeter boys used to sing in the thirties and before ran: "Yesterday was training day, Major Parks was drummer, George Hall was corpor-aul And Ben Jakes commander." Major Charles Parks was skilled as a drummer. He Hved on High Street near the present house of Mrs. Elizabeth Hall. For years he rang the town bell. It is said of him that he would leave the bell swinging, cross the street to the tavern and drink a glass of grog before the bell stopped ringing. George Hall was a thick-set negro remarkable for his physical strength. Ben Jakes was a tall negro, of not particularly savory fame, whose house was pulled down on account of its reputation. It was said that Col. Odlin -read the riot act, at the same time en- couraging the rioters to ^^PuU away, boys!" I remember all these persons well. The house of Ben Jakes stood on Portsmouth Avenue, though I think he had also lived at one time in the Whitfield house. Whitfield was a negro who hved in a one story house which stood on what was later Court Street, near where the house of the late Nathaniel Jewell now stands. I do not remember Whitfield well, nor do I know what his employment COLORED FOLK IN OLD EXETER 83 was, but he was famed as a hunter and skilled as a marksman. He had a son who went to Buffalo and I think established himself as a barber there. He was of a literary turn, and published some commendable poems. Another son went out one day into the woods in search of nuts, and climbed into a thick-leaved tree. While he was among the branches, a young man named Proctor, mistaking him for some animal, shot at and killed him. The father of this Proctor was a blacksmith, who had a shop near where the old saw mill stood. He was a peculiar man, ingenious and of an inventive turn of mind. He made axes of what he called " silver steel" — his own invention. I remember one of his make that we had when I was a boy. He lived, with a number of pretty daughters, in a house situated where the Squamscott now stands. The family, I believe, moved from Exeter to New York. To return to the negroes: A negro well known in those days was Harry Manjoy. He was brought here by Captain Noah Emery, a sea captain, who picked him up in some foreign port. He had been stolen from his home in Africa, and it was said that he was a prince of his tribe. He was quite a youth when Captain Emery obtained him. At my earliest recollection of him he was employed as an hostler in the stables of the stage company. He was a very steady and indus- trious man and had a family equally industrious and respectable. Another negro. Josh Zack, who was also employed in the stables, possessed one accomphshment, a re- 84 EXETER IN 1830 markable ability for whistling. He left here suddenly and was never seen again. The story ran that he went to sea and at some southern port was seized and held as a slave. Perhaps the best known negro of them all was Charles G. Tash, son of Oxford Tash, a former slave. The father had been a soldier in the Revolutionary War and had been freed on account of his military service. Charles was a gentleman as far as manner was concerned, and high spirited. He lived with my grandfather for many years, and was also body servant to his broth- er, the Hon. Nicholas Oilman. He accompanied Commodore Long on one of his cruises as private ser- vant, and was an ideal man in that position. He fell in love with a white girl and wanted to marry her, but her parents were unwilling. By brooding over his disappointment his reason became unsettled. After a visit one evening he discharged a pistol loaded with two bullets at the young woman, wounding her dan- gerously, and with another pistol shot himself, the ball passing through his arm. He was brought down to the Burley Tavern. I remember going into the bar room of the tavern and seeing him lying on a bench, perfectly quiet. He would not answer any questions. His design had been to end the Uves of both, but they both recovered. He was tried and found guilty of as- sault with intent to kill, but was respited on account of unsoundness of mind. The shooting occurred in the hall of the house lately occupied by Mrs. Bick- ford on Cass Street. COLORED FOLK IN OLD EXETER 85 The colored population in my early days was larger than now. Some were descendants of slaves owned by prominent families. There was old Katy, who lived in a cottage long ago torn down, in what was called Lovers' Lane. I never knew her last name, but I remember her well. We children had the impression that she was a miser. Instead of stockings, she wore strips of cotton cloth wound round her ankles in uneven folds. I do not know what she did for a living, as I never was thrown in her way. To go back still further, there was Tobias Cutler, a Revolutionary pensioner. He had two sons who lived and died here, Rufus and Nathaniel, and one daughter, who married George Harris. She was a very respectable and sensible woman and much thought of. Her husband left her a very comfortable fortune. Another Revolutionary pensioner was Jude Hall, who was remarkable for his powerful physique. He died when I was four years old. I have also seen some mem- bers of the Paul family, who were preachers in the Baptist denomination. On Linden Street was an old, queer- looking house, near a very pretty growth of hard wood trees, called ''Cuffee's Woods." My impression is that in that house lived a colored man by the name of Cuffee from whom the woods were named. Hannah Blossom, who hved late in life in a little house at the foot of what is now Green Street, had formerly been a domestic in some family. These, with the families of Husoe, White, and Wallace, some of whom have left descendants, include all the colored residents of the town whom I recall as living here in my boyhood. ABOLITIONISTS OF EXETER Paper read to the Frauenverein I UNDERSTAND that in your studies of United States History you have lately been interested in the great Abolition movement which commenced in the latter part of the twenties. As I have lived through all that period, I will try to relate to you what I remember of it. In its beginnings there was not much in the move- ment to enlist the attention of a little boy. Those most interested were good and thoughtful men and women, few in numbers, scattered in location, who uttered their sentiments in such newspapers as were willing to publish them, and also in tracts which were freely circulated. The great work for the emancipation of the slave, and for the enlightenment of the people on the subject, was fairly begun when Mr. Garrison started his news- paper, the Liberator, published in Boston. The apathy that had held the people was disturbed. Two parties were engaged in trying to bring to an end the evils of slavery, one by immediate emancipation, the other by colonization of the negro in Africa. While I was at Dartmouth the plans of the Colonization Society enlisted the interest of the students. The member- ship of this society included prominent men both from ABOLITIONISTS IN EXETER 87 the North and the South. Quite a sum of money was raised, and the RepubHc of Liberia was founded, — but the problem of slavery was not solved. The first leaders among the AboHtionists began, it seems to me, in a wrong way. They were abusive of all who did not agree with them. To moderate people they seemed fanatical, and their plans for the abolition of slavery utterly impracticable. They hiu*l- ed their invectives at church and state, as well as at individuals, so that they antagonized a large portion of the community, injuring their cause thereby. I can remember the bitter feeling which existed against the principal leaders and speakers. They were very able men, orators, true and devoted to what they thought was right; and if they could have pursued a less vituperative course, they need not have aroused the prejudice of the community. In some cases they were far from agreement among themselves. In his History of Concord Dr. Bouton tells of a meeting of the New Hampshire Anti-Slavery Society, when "the whole day was spent in discussing the question whether a secretary should be appointed and the meeting regularly organized by the choice of officers. N. P. Rogers of Concord, and others, spoke against organization, and in favor of allowing every member perfect liberty. Stephen S. Foster of Canter- bury was in favor of organization. The meeting was spht on this rock.'' Concord was the scene of some excitement when George Thompson, an Englishman, attempted to hold 88 EXETER IN 1830 meetings there. A meeting was called by prominent citizens, and the following resolution was adopted: ^'Resolved: That we behold with indignation and disgust the intrusion upon us of foreign emissaries, paid by the money of open enemies to our form of government, who are traversing the country, assailing its institutions, and distracting the quiet of the peo- ple.'^ When Thompson accompanied by Mr. Whittier at- tempted to hold a meeting, it was prevented by a mob which afterwards burnt an effigy in the State House yard, concluding the evening with fireworks and the discharge of cannon. My uncle, the Rev. Dr. Perry of Groveland, Massa- chusetts, who was interested in all good causes, once joined Mr. Whittier in an attempt to hold an anti- slavery meeting in Newburyport. They were refused the use of one church after another and finally were per- mitted by a friendly baker to use his yard. Dr. Perry remarked to Mr. Whittier: ^^The people of Newbury- port are too pious to be good." I am afraid I cannot tell all that happened in Exeter, as I was away from town a large portion of the years between 1838 and 1847, and so was not a witness of all the exciting events that occurred; but I remember them as they were described by others. The persons in this town who were pronounced AboHtionists were Woodbridge Odlin, Henry Shute, James G. Page, Joshua Getchell, Samuel Tilton, Ira Burnham, and some women. Probably there were ABOLITIONISTS IN EXETER 89 others whom I do not remember. They used to meet in a small room in the top of the Methodist meeting- house on Portsmouth Avenue; and afterwards in a back room of the building on Water Street lately oc- cupied by Mr. Burpee as a bakery. What they did in their meetings I cannot tell, but probably they en- couraged one another and strengthened themselves in the good cause. They needed this communion, for they were abused and reviled for the stand they had taken, but they remained steadfast to the end. Some riot- ous scenes took place in Exeter in connection with public meetings held to discuss the abohtion of slavery. The first one I remember was when a meeting was held in the old Methodist meeting-house. I think the speaker was a Rev. Mr. Root; I do not know where he came from. I do not think he was in the same class with Garrison and Foster, and probably his lecture ought not to have offended any Northern man; but he had hardly begun when stones flew through the windows, the window back of the pulpit was smashed in, and a mob brought the fire engine and threw water into the room through the opening. Of course the room was cleared and the meeting broken up. I cannot tell what became of the Reverend Root, though I know he was not injured. The crowd on its way home proposed to mob Mr. Shute, who hved near the bridge, but it was made known that he was absent in Maine, and no damage was done. At another time a meeting was advertised to be 90 EXETER IN 1830 held in front of the old Town hall on Court Street, to be addressed by Stephen Foster. He stood in the doorway, the crowd trying to drown him out by noise and shouting. The affair ended in a fight and Joseph Stockbridge, a drunken fellow, had a rib broken. Miss Betsey Clifford was a true and thorough AboU- tionist. I have lately heard a story that as no pub- lic hall could be procured for an abolition lecture she opened her garden for the purpose. I think Frederick Douglass was one of the speakers. A man in the audi- ence tried hard to break up the meeting by shouting and interrupting the speakers. When remonstrated with, he said he could not stand there and hear his state and country abused. The AboHtionists did their share of interrupting. One Sunday morning when the members of the First Parish had assembled for their usual worship they were astonished at an interruption of the service by a voice from the floor. The speaker was the same Stephen Foster, howling his anathemas against church and state. They tried to persuade him to keep silence, but it was of no avail, so he had to be removed by force; and as he was a non-resistant he lay down on the floor and was dragged down the aisle and out, haranguing all the way. Rev. Mr. Williams came here from Salem, Massa- chusetts, and was settled as pastor of the First Parish. He was a man of superior intellect, strong and decided in his views, combative in temperament. A few of the prominent Abolitionists were members of his church or ABOLITIONISTS IN EXETER 91 parish. It was the custom to send in notices of aboHtion meetings with the other notices on Sunday, but Mr. WiUiams would not read them. This was the match that Hghted the fire of that unhappy quarrel which lasted all the time he was here, estranged old friends, weakened rehgion, and ended as far as he was concerned in a council, which I beheve, sustained him; but the affair drove him into another profession. He returned to Salem, where he practised medicine, and died a few years afterwards. I have mentioned all the public excitements that attended the abolition meetings held in the town. Of the men living now who were present at one or more of these occasions I will mention Messrs. John G. Gilman, William Young, Newell Head, and George S. Shute. In time the feehng and the opposition against these lecturers diminished and the meetings were held undisturbed, until the South undertook to carry slavery into Texas and the new Territories. This attempt brought out the Free Soil Party; the Civil War followed, and the freeing of the slave — a blessed result for the country, though bought at a great price. I cannot express the bitterness of the whole thing; I must leave it to your imagination. In closing, I thank you for your polite invitation and hope that this feeble statement may have in- terested you. THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS IN 1850 I HAVE selected the Public Schools as a topic of in- terest to a Parish whose history rims back to the time of the first settlers, for it is the boast of New England that our Puritan forefathers founded their commonwealth on the Church and the School. We learn from Bell's History that among the first inhabitants of Exeter was an experienced schoolmaster, Philemon Pormont by name, and that he had capable successors. In 1703 a school was held in the old meeting-house of this Parish on the Newmarket road, and in 1707 the town voted to build a school house near the '^new meeting house,'' which stood on the same lot as the present building. But I do not propose in speaking of the schools of Exeter to go back of my own remembrance. As a pupil I knew nothing of the pubUc schools, for I never saw the inside of one until I went into them as one of the superintending school committee. When not much over three years old I was sent to a dame school, and continued in such schools till I was eight, with the exception of a short time when a man kept a private school in the building belonging to the First Parish, on Centre Street. After spending a year at an academy in Massachu- setts, I was launched into the Phillips Exeter Academy THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS IN 1850 93 at the age of ten. I had been taught reading, spelling, and geography very well, but very little arithmetic, and no English grammar. At the age of eight, Latin grammar was commenced. I have since regretted that I did not have the privilege of the systematic course of instruction that is afforded by the public school system of later years. There have been a number of private schools in town, both for boys and girls. The most prominent was the Exeter Female Academy, which was founded in the thirties, and kept up, though not continuously, till it was superseded by the Seminary. It attracted a number of pupils from out of town, as it was considered an advantage to young girls to be trained in the cul- tured atmosphere of Exeter. In the early forties the house this side of Miss Harvey's was built for a school house by old Mr. Daniel Veasey, and his son John kept a private school there. In 1807 the town was first divided into six school districts, which were maintained until the district system was given up. The town chose the Superintending School Committee, whose duty it was to examine and approve teachers, to visit all the schools, and report their condition to the town. When I commenced service on that board we had to read our report in open Town Meeting. We were paid twenty-five dollars a year each, and we had to find a horse and carriage to ride to the outside districts. Each district chose its own '' Prudential Committee"; their duty was to procure teachers and hire them if 94 EXETER IN 1830 they passed the examination of the town committee; also to buy the wood, brooms, and pails, and take care of the school houses. I think twenty-five dollars was all that the committee of three received. When I was in office, 1850 to 1854, schools were kept in all the dis- tricts, and they had scholars too, children of native ancestry. I have known about eight hundred and forty scholars in attendance with fewer school buildings than now, but the rooms were badly crowded. The first district comprised the chief part of the village, and maintained four primary and two grammar schools. The High School was started in 1848, and the building erected at the expense of this district. Pupils from other parts of the town had no claim upon it. The first teacher of the Spring Street Grammar School, whom I remember, was Mr. J. T. Burnham. As he boarded in the house next to us, we knew him well. I think he gave up teaching in my earliest childhood. Master Bmrnham, as he was called, was a man of large statiu'e, a very pleasant man. He was followed by the Reverend Ferdinand Elhs, a Baptist clergyman, a very good scholar, who had been tutor in Brown University. I think he taught the boys well, but he had a most ungovernable temper that must have impaired his usefulness. He used a rawhide, as it was called in those days, a cruel weapon, as some hving here now can testify. This temper, I judge, was the obstacle to his higher advancement. He taught in a wooden building of two rooms, one much larger than the other. It had a small cupola with a representation THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS IN 1850 95 of a quill pen for a vane. In the small room his daughter Charlotte taught. She and her sister Rhoda were two uncommon teachers of young children, and they taught in this town for many years. The school building in Hall Place was of brick, and was built somewhere between 1823 and 1830. It had two rooms. Miss Martha Rogers taught there for some years, and was much thought of, both personally and as a teacher. She married and left town. The only school house in District Number 2 was the old brick building on Park Street, recently torn down. I think that no one teacher served there as long as did Mr. Ellis, Mr. Thompson, and Mr. French, in Number 1. The four outside districts had regular summer and winter schools, each with a respectable number of scholars. We may ask, where are their successors? In the year ending March 9th, 1852, the number of children attending school in the four outl3dng districts was 126. In the next year it was 137. In these districts the winter term of school was frequently taught by a man, the sununer term always by a woman. The average wages of male teachers for all the districts was $25.42 a month, for women $8.50, exclusive of board in both cases. One matter in which there has been marked improve- ment is regularity of attendance. We find in the old reports many references to the non-attendance of pupils. I quote from the report of 1853 : '^As regards attendance, this year is an improvement on the last, — the percentage of absence is not so great, 96 EXETER IN 1830 though it is much larger than it ought to be. Fully one-third of all the children that have attended school two weeks during the year have been virtually absent the rest of the time. A law was passed at the last session of the legislature in regard to truants, but we cannot avail omrselves of its benefits until it has been adopted at some legal meeting of the town. This year we have mentioned the names of some who, by constant attend- ance, deserve this credit, as an inducement to excite in all a desire to be punctual and constant. '^ I have here copies of two of the oldest printed reports. One of them was written by Professor Joseph G. Hoyt, of the Academy. His reports were lively and original, and were read with much interest. The committee of which he was a member was not afraid of plain speaking. The report for 1848 describes a certain teacher as ^'a beginner who, in intellectual discipline and furniture, was none too well qualified for her responsible office.^* Of another school it was said: ^^ There was neither law nor order, authority nor obedience, study nor improve- ment." Of a school house in District Number 5 the committee reported to the Town Meeting: ''In this district, as in District No. 4, there is no blackboard, — an article as indispensable to a teacher as a plough to a farmer. * * * The school house itself is a mournful relic of the past. The black and dingy exterior contrasts drearily with the rich and painted farm houses about it; its uneven billowy floor and hearth surge like the sea in a storm; its stove looks antediluvian and might have been used THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS IN 1850 97 in the ark; its doors hang convulsively to broken hinges, and one of them when opened screeches like a stirred-up hyena." The conunittee of 1848 objected to unventilated rooms, and said so plainly: *'If hard-headed, tough-rinded men like your Conunit- tee, cannot breathe for half a session the air of our school rooms without the most sickening nausea and vertigo, what, it might be asked, must be its effect upon young children who are obliged to inhale the fetid stuff for six mortal hours? We have sat some afternoons in school rooms in this town where it would be hardly a figure of speech to say that the foul and putrid air was Hhick and slab' enough to slice — air, certainly, such as no grown up man has been compelled to live in since the days of Jonah/' As a contrast to these vigorous denunciations we find in the report for 1853 this high-sounding eulogy of the present Grove Street school house: ^'This School-house is a model one — beautiful in its architectural design, admirably arranged and fmrnished for its purpose — a standing monument of the good taste of the gentlemen who conceived and superintended its erection — a credit to the liberality of the District, and an ornament to the village. The time when any building was thought good enough for a School-house, that was capable of defending its inmates from the in- clemencies of the weather, (and in many that was not thought to be a requisite) has passed away and a new age commenced. Now, school buildings must be con- 98 EXETER IN 1830 structed on certain fixed principles; each scholar must have so many cubic inches of air, an opening in the roof to let the bad air out, (while the old ones had many holes to let the pure in) the outside and inside must be finished in accordance with the refined rules of archi- tecture; in fine, so as to please the eye of the most sensitive critic in such matters. This edifice, moreover, has the advantages of more costly structures, while it exceeds them in the simple but accurate taste of design. Architecture has been likened by Madame de Stael to frozen music; and cannot we hope that the fine taste exhibited in this building may give a more refined and elevated tone to the minds of these children?" COMMERCIAL AND DOMESTIC LIFE IN 1830 . From Occasional Papers LET US look back at the business of Exeter as it was in my boyhood. I do not remember the time when ship building was a great industry, and large vessels for that day were built here. Shops for the forging of chains, anchors, and the iron work of ships were in operation along the riverside. There were also works for expressing oil, the building for which I can just recollect. There were woolen mills, and I remember the starting of the cotton factory, which gave an impetus to the town. The publishing house of J. & B. WiUiams brought out many popular works, which were sent to the trade sales in the large cities. Among the books published by them were the Waverley Novels, Marryat's and Jane Porter's novels, and the ^'Biography of Eminent Men.'' After the publishing business failed, book binding was still carried on by Francis Grant in connection with his circulating library of many rare old books. These were sold by auction after his death, but the apathy of our citizens allowed them to go to another town. (Large- ly to the Portsmouth Athenaeum.) Carriage building was carried on extensively, and an Exeter chaise had a very good name. There were tan- neries and morocco dressing in Tan Lane and on New- 100 EXETER IN 1830 market road. Flagg's paper mills prospered till they bm*ned down, and the powder mills till they blew up. Wool pulling was an active and profitable industry. Gas pipe works employed a large number of hands. The trade of some of the stores was more extensive than now. In the winter produce was brought in pungs from the northern part of the state and Vermont, and exchanged for salt, southern corn, and fish. Rum was sold then, and drunk, too, but outside of the taverns it was sold only in grocery stores. In those days everyone had employment the year round. There were no strikes or labor unions. The working class were generally industrious and prudent; the factory girls were the daughters of respectable farmers, and a good addition to the town. It was easy to obtain help out of doors and in the house. The topic of the inefficiency and scarcity of servants was not brought up at sewing societies or the morning call. In those days the money was mostly spent at home. We did not have to go to Boston for our clothes. Bon- nets and dresses were handed down to the latest genera- tions. What an amount of care and perplexity was thus saved! People worked then as now, but did not need a change every few months; nervous prostration was an unheard-of disease. Summer was spent at home, practising the duties of hospitality. The children went to school the year round, were rosy and healthy; and they learned to spell, and to respect their elders. Parties and gatherings were attended by old and young together, and that was a benefit to both. COMMERCIAL AND DOMESTIC LIFE 101 'pXETER was a pleasant place to live in, in my earliest recollection of it, though in habits and manner of living very different from what it is now. All the people who wanted work had it; the pay was not large, but expenses were small. There was good trade in the stores, the dwellers in neighboring towns coming in for that purpose more generally than now. The merchants went to Boston in the spring and fall and bought goods to last them through the following months. They spent two or three days in selecting their stock, shipping it to Portsmouth to be reloaded on Captain Furnald's packet for Exeter. Quite a little time it took to get the goods here, and a lively day it was, and very interesting for us boys, when the packet discharged her cargo. It was then that an old fashioned dray, called the Boston truck, appeared, a very handy vehicle for carrying hogsheads and barrels. This form of dray was much used in Boston in those days, but is not seen now. They were too long for the narrow streets. Captain Furnald was very good and kind to us chil- dren, for he had a large fine family of his own. He died many years ago, much respected. In winter days you could see on Water Street a long row of pungs from far back in the state, loaded with butter and dried apples and carcasses of mutton (sold as low as 2 1-2 cents a pound), which were exchanged for salt, southern corn, and fish. Fresh fish was carried away frozen, and the drivers of the pungs fed chiefly, during their journey, on chunks cut from frozen masses of baked beans. Salt was in great demand. The clerks 102 EXETER IN 1830 were kept busy, shovelling and measuring the corn and salt, which were brought in bulk by water, and dumped on the lower floors of the stores opening toward the river. The flour came mostly from Baltimore, for there was not much of a ''West" in those days. Farm work and teaming were done principally with oxen. Wood was the only fuel; it came into town mostly by the Epping road, and when there was snow it was annoying to drive on that road because you met so many of these ox teams drawing wood. The first coal I ever saw was a small quantity which my father procured somewhere for an experimental purpose. In Groveland, Massachusetts, where I went to an academy when I was a little over eight years old, peat was used considerably. I do not remember much about it, except that it kept afire for a long time. The stores did not deliver goods, neither was milk carried from house to house. Most of the well-to-do families kept one or two cows, and those that did not bought milk from their neighbors. Oxen were kept in the village. I can remember when my father had in his barn two cows, a yoke of oxen, and four horses. The boys of the family used to drive the cows to and from pasture. I hope in this sHght sketch I have made plain some of the differences between the times of four score years ago and now. For the lack of some modern advantages there was this compensation: the people were generally contented with their lot, and this cannot be said to be true of the present times. >t •■' i