wm^ — — — " 
 
 UMASS/AMHERST 9 
 
 
 487 
 
 023 
 
 

 LIBRARY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 MASSACHUSETTS 
 AGRICULTURAL 
 
 NO. 
 
 SF 
 
 souRc 487 
 023 
 
 
This book 
 
 only, and 
 CENTS a| 
 the day in( 
 
 DATE DUE 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Digitized by tine Internet Archive 
 
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 Boston Library Consortium IVIember Libraries 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/fivehundredquest01darr 
 
FIVE HUNDRED 
 
 QUESTIONS... 
 
 and ANSWERS 
 
 ON 
 
 POULiTt^V HfllSIflG. 
 
 A Book of Practical Authentic Information In the Form of 
 
 Questions and Answers on Various Subjects, as 
 
 Feed and Care, Diseases, Eggs,, Incubators 
 
 Buildings, Etc., with a Chapter on 
 
 Turkeys, Geese and Ducks. 
 
 SY J. W. DARROW. 
 
 Chatham, N. Y. 
 
 J. Wallace Darrow. 
 
 1899. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Feeding and Care. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Diseases of Poultry. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 About Eggs. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Poultry Buildings, 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Incubators and Broiler Raising. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Miscellaneous Inquiries, 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Turkeys, Ducks and Geese. 
 
CllAPTER f- 
 
 jnmmseed, Sorghum, Etc. — Are the seeds 
 k«re named good for fowls ? 
 
 Flaxseed meal may be fed in small 
 quantity, but it should be used with 
 discretion. A gill to 10 hens in soft 
 food, twice or three times a week is 
 taflBcient, as it is somewhat laxative. 
 Sorghum seed is a good feed and 
 may be fed almost as freely as corn. 
 Broom corn seed is excellent and 
 Kiay be fed every other day in 
 winter. 
 
 . Vegetables for fr^Mfe**.— I wish to devote 
 a portion of my garden to raising some vege- 
 tables to feed my poultry next winter. What 
 would you advise ? 
 
 Cabbage and turnips; getting a 
 good winter variety of the former, — 
 Drumheads or Sureheads;— and the 
 purple top strap leaf turnips. These 
 can be sown as late as July, where 
 early peas and early potatoes have 
 oome out Clover hay cut fine and 
 steamed, is far superior to cabbage, 
 turnips, etc. It seems to be exactly 
 the thing wanted, the cabbage, etc,, 
 being a makeshift. 
 
 Onions and Eggs. — My fowls love onions, 
 but it is said that onions give the eggs an 
 «Bion flavor. Do they ? 
 
 No; onions do not affect the flavor 
 of the eggs. Onions have been fed 
 for weeks at a time along with other 
 food, with no taint perceptible in 
 the eggs. It would be just as rea- 
 sonable to say that chicks hatched 
 from esgs laid by onion eating hens 
 would smell and taste of the onion I 
 A difference in food no doubt affects 
 the color of the yolk ; the eggs from 
 hens fed on corn have a deeper and 
 richer colored yolk than the eggs of 
 hens fed strictly on nitrogenous 
 foods. Fowls that have free range 
 eat everything that a crow will eat, 
 and yet their eggs do not taste of 
 garbage or carrion. Onions are a 
 healthful food for fowls, often better 
 than medicine. 
 
 Feeding Oats, — Are oats a good gr&la for 
 fowls ? 
 
 Oats may be used as a portion of 
 the ration for poultry the year 
 round, and especially for the lar|^ 
 Asiatic varieties that are predis- 
 posed to i)ut on an excess of fat 
 when fed in the ordinary way. But 
 we would recommend that the oats 
 be good and sound, and first-class in 
 quality, otherwise they will not do 
 as a constant feed. 
 
 Carbonaceous Foods.— Please give & IJst 
 of the foods whi3h are carbonaceous and of 
 those which are nitrogenous. Which of the 
 above are for bone and feathers and which 
 are for fat and muscle ? 
 
 Carbonaceous foods are the grains, 
 with fat of any kind, as well as 
 potatoes and other starchy foods. 
 Nitrogeneous foods are milk, meat, 
 beans, clover and the grasses. The 
 nitrogenous form bone, feathers, and 
 muscle. The carbonaceous form fat. 
 All foods, however, are to a certain 
 extent both carbonaceous and nitro- 
 genous, hence a list could not he 
 well arranged. 
 
 Boiv Often to Feed. — Would you adTise 
 the feeding of fowls three times a day, when 
 they are enclosed in yards, during the win- 
 ter months, when the days are so short T 
 
 When fowls are inclosed, with no 
 exercise, they are liable to become 
 over fat. The proper method is to 
 feed only twice a day. In the morn- 
 ing give about a quart of grain to 
 15 hens, scattered in litter, and com- 
 pel them to scratch and work for it. 
 At night give the same quantity. If 
 fed too frequently they will expect to 
 receive food, and will not work, fol- 
 lowing the attendant constantly. 
 Of course when we mention grain, 
 we refer not to grain only, but a 
 variety of feed. 
 
 S V^f 
 
Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 Sun Flower Seeds.— Are sun flower seeds 
 good for poultry ? 
 
 Yes. Feed a pint, three times a 
 week, to 12 bens, and they will be 
 found excellent. They are very 
 nitrogenous and also rich in fats. 
 
 Sugar- Cane Seed, Etc. — What properties 
 are claimed in the sugar-cane seed, and with 
 what grain does it compare best — wheat or 
 corn ? Will sweet skimmed milk answer the 
 place of fresh meat for young chicks ? 
 
 It approaches more to wheat than 
 to corn, but is more nitrogenous 
 than corn. The skimmed milk will 
 not take the place of meat, but is 
 excellent. Give any amount they 
 will drink of the milk. 
 
 Beef Blood. — Is beef blood good for chick- 
 ens, and how is it best prepared ? 
 
 Beef blood is excellent, being rich 
 in nitrogen, and nearly approaches 
 the white of the egg in composition. 
 It may be thickened with a mixture 
 of meal and bran, put in a bag and 
 boiled, or it may be mixed, if fresh, 
 with the regular soft food. Feed it 
 only twice or three times a week. 
 
 Curing and Feeding Clover. — When 
 should clover be cut, and do you make it in 
 hay or pack it away in boxes while green ? 
 Do you steam it before feeling ? 
 
 Clover should be cut when the 
 blossoms begin to turn brown. It is 
 then at its best with the seed-making 
 material stored up in the stalk. It 
 can be siloed in boxes or barrels, 
 but probably the most convenient 
 way of keeping it is to make it into 
 hay, and when wanted to feed, run 
 it through a hay-cutter or clover 
 cutter, cutting it into about half- 
 inch lengths, and steam in a closed 
 vessel. Siloed clover is no doubt 
 better if it is perfectly siloed, but we 
 would advise anyone inexperienced 
 in siloing to experiment with a small 
 quantity first, making hay his chief 
 reliance. Some poultrymen fill a 
 huge kettle with clover, pour on a 
 couple of buckets of hot water, and 
 put a slow fire under it to keep up 
 the steaming and bring to a boil, 
 then stirring in meal and sorts to 
 make a mash. Excellent results are 
 also obtained by simply cutting up 
 the clover into a firkin or tub, pour- 
 ing boiling hot water onto it, letting 
 it steam (covered closely) all night. 
 This, fed clear, is very like the grass 
 that biddy gets when running at 
 large, and is an excellent green feed. 
 
 Beans for Fotvls —Are Red Kidney beana 
 cooked and mixed with ground feed good for 
 hens that lay ? 
 
 They are excellent, being highly 
 nitrogenous, but too expensive for 
 the purpose as compared with grain. 
 
 Coal Ashes — Is it a good plan to keep a 
 supply of coal ashes before hens so they can 
 pick them, eat all they desire, and wallow in 
 them? 
 
 Use coal ashes, but first sift them. 
 The fowls will eat a great deal of the 
 course stuff in the dust and ashes. 
 
 Meat Scraps.— Are the meat scraps where 
 tallow is pressed out good for chickens 7 Or 
 is that good where lard is pressed out by the 
 butchers ? 
 
 As the grease is usually very 
 thoroughly extracted by pressure 
 and heat, the scraps may not con- 
 tain much fat. They may be used 
 if not fed in excess. 
 
 Feeding Ten Sens. — I have ten hens, and 
 can feed them three times a day, — morning, 
 noon and night. What in your judgment 
 should I feed them ? 
 
 You will probably find the plan of 
 using cut clover, (scalded) sprinkled 
 with meal, excellent in the morning, 
 with wheat at night. A mash of 
 cooked vegetables, corn meal, fine 
 feed and shorts, with a handful of 
 ground beef scrap for animal food, 
 also gives a very perfect ration and 
 a variety. We advise feeding this 
 only once a day, grain at other 
 times. 
 
 Green Oats and Bye. — Are green oats as 
 good as clover hay for hens, and, what time 
 ought they to be cut ? Is rye good also ? 
 
 When young grass, rye or oats are 
 cut before making much growth 
 they are watery and contain little 
 nutrition; too much of such feed 
 causes the hens to have scours. 
 Many persons have been disap- 
 pointed in confining their fowls on 
 young rye or an exclusive feed. It 
 is excellent as a diecary food, but all 
 very young grass is mostly water. 
 We do not advise cutting such for 
 winter use, but if oats are grown 
 and the crop cut when the grain is 
 in the milky stage, near the stage of 
 maturity, the nutritive matter, on 
 its way to fill the grain, will be ar- 
 rested in the stalk, so that, when 
 cured, the whole stalk (with the 
 grain) if cured, stored in the barn. 
 
Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 and cut with a fine cutter, will make 
 excellent feed for the hens. The 
 oats should be cut green, just as 
 the seed heads begin to form. No 
 green feed equals clover, however. 
 
 Young Calves JTea*.— Will it pay to use 
 the meat of young calves for poultry ? If so, 
 bow should it be prepared ? 
 
 Prepare it by cooking to a broth 
 and thicken with meal and ground 
 oats It is always a good ration for 
 fowls, but ground bone and meat is 
 superior. 
 
 Sutter inilH.— Is the buttermilk beneficial 
 •r injurious to poultry? If not injurious 
 irill all they want hurt them ? 
 
 It is excellent. Give them all they 
 wish of fresh milk, sour milk, butrer- 
 milk or milk in any form. For 
 chicks use only the fresh milk. 
 
 Carrots as Feed. — Are carrots as good as 
 kay feed for hens, either boiled, mashed and 
 mixed with wheat middlings, or should they 
 l»e chopped fine and fed raw ? 
 
 Carrots are a good vegetable feed 
 either cooked or raw. There is no 
 need to chop them fine to feed raw. 
 Split them in halves and the fowls 
 will eat the meat all out of them. 
 
 Gravel. — Why is gravel recommended for 
 fowls ? 
 
 The gravel serves as teeth in the 
 gizzard and assists in grinding and 
 pulverizing the food. The lack of a 
 proper ground diet often causes 
 bowel troubles in fowls, hence 
 gravel, hard bone, or some sharp 
 substances, should always be within 
 reach of the fowls. 
 
 General Feeding. Tell use in a general 
 
 way how to feed laying hens ! 
 
 Keep in view the fact that when 
 a hen is laying she is a producer, 
 hence when a number of hens are 
 together, and some are not laying, 
 the non laying hens may become too 
 fat, not being required to utilize 
 materials in producing eggs, it is 
 best, therefore, to separate the lay- 
 ers from the others. In the morn- 
 ing give all the cut clover hay 
 (scalded) they will eat. At night 
 give a pound of cut fresh meat and 
 bone to 16 hens, with all the oats, 
 wheat or corn that they will eat. 
 
 Feeding Timothy, Jtye, Etc.— Row about 
 the use of Timothy (or Herdsgrass) as a 
 green food for poultry in winter ? It seems 
 to be tender and nice, and not aifected by 
 frosts. Would it be better than the steamed 
 clover hay ? Are turnip top leaves good to 
 feed hens ? 
 
 Yes, it would be one of the best of 
 green feeds, and nearly equal to 
 steamed clover hay. Turnip tops 
 are also good, but not equal to fresh 
 grass. 
 
 Feed for Chicks.— Wh&t kind of feed is 
 best for young chicks when their feathers 
 begin to grow rapidly ? 
 
 Grive a little chopped lean meat, 
 cooked, three times a week ; keep 
 pin-head oatmeal before them all 
 the time, also cooked potatoes, tur- 
 nips or anything that they will eat. 
 A small box of ground bone should 
 be within access. 
 
 Bone Meal — Please tell me how to feed 
 bone meal to the chickens ; what proportion 
 to feed to pullets and old hens ? 
 
 It is usual to allow one pound of 
 bone meal or ground meat to l6 
 fowls, and it may be mixed with 
 other food. A little box of bone- 
 meal may be kept before them all 
 the time, if preferred, as they will 
 not consume more than they desire. 
 
 Green Feeds. — We o;ten speak of green 
 feeds. What would you class under this 
 head ? 
 
 The list comprises grass and grass 
 seed, green corn, ensilage, cabbage, 
 clover, purslane, young beets, garlic, 
 onions, leeks, lettuce, turnips, pump- 
 kins, apples, kohl rabi and carrots. 
 
 Sash for Poultry. — Wnat ingredients 
 are best to use in a poultry hash ? 
 
 It may be made out of meat boiled 
 and minced, mashed potatoes, wheat 
 bran, corn meal and oat meal, with 
 a slight sprinkling of bone dust, 
 the whole mixed with the liquor the 
 meat was boiled in. Chandlers' 
 scraps soaked over night in cold 
 water and afterward minced, may 
 serve in the place of meat. 
 
 Feeding Mixed Grain. — Would you ad- 
 vise feeding grains mixed or separately ? 
 
 All grains should be scattered in 
 litter, such as leaves or cut straw, so 
 as to compel the birds to scratch for 
 them, and also to prevent the greedy 
 
FivK Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 hens from robbing those that are 
 timid. It is advisable to change the 
 feed by giving wheat one day, corn 
 the next, and oats the next. Sorg- 
 hum seed, sunflower seed, buck- 
 wheat, or barley may also have 
 places in the rotation. 
 
 length of Cut Clover. — Would you please 
 tell me what is the proper length to cut 
 rtover ? 
 
 For fowls do not cut in lengths 
 longer than half an inch — the shorter 
 the better. It is an excellent ration 
 and fowls love it greatly. 
 
 Jtaw Meat. — Having had poor luck with 
 ray hens in hatching this spring, I thought 
 I -would ask you if it is injurious to feed raw 
 meat to hens whose eggs are to be used for 
 hatching ? 
 
 The raw meat, if lean, should be 
 given three times a week. It will 
 not affect the hatching of the eggs. 
 Half an ounce for each hen is 
 enough. 
 
 Feed for Iiight Srahmas. — I have thir- 
 teen Light Brahma Hens. They are all 
 irell.but do not lay, Can you tell me what 
 is the best feed for them, and what propor- 
 tion to feed ? 
 
 The Brahma is somewhat indolent 
 in disposition, and becomes fat very 
 readily. When they appear in per 
 feet health, and do not lay, feed 
 o&ts, wheat, and meat occasionally. 
 
 Charcoal. — What are the benefits to be de- 
 riyed from feeding charcoal ? 
 
 Ctarcoal serves more as a correc- 
 tive than any other purpose, as it is 
 not digestible, being one of the most 
 insoluble substances known. It 
 should always be freshly burned 
 before using it. It corrects acidity 
 and also partially serves as grit. 
 
 Clover Ensilage, Etc. — Is clover ensilage 
 good for laying hens in the winter? Is it 
 better than clover hay cut fine and fed ? 
 Can it be fed to young chicks without in- 
 jury, provided it is sweet ? Are sugar beets 
 ft good winter feed for fowls in confinement? 
 
 Clover ensilage is excellent for 
 fowls in winter; it being more suc- 
 culent than cured hay, it makes a 
 better feed. Young chicks will re- 
 ceive no itijury from it if fed intelli- 
 gently. The beets make a very 
 good winter relish. 
 
 To MaJee Grit, — Will ground bone anawer 
 for grit T Will granulated charcoal act tn 
 any measure as grit ? Would our commoa 
 granite, pounded or ground, be as good, or 
 better, than gravel or sand 7 
 
 Ground bone makes excellent grit, 
 as it is hard and sharp, but flint, or 
 some very hard substance is better: 
 Pounded glass, broken china, or any 
 sharp substance, may also be used. 
 Charcoal is rather too soft and is 
 used more as a corrective of bowel 
 disorder. 
 
 Tr«« -Feee^j*.— Is it well to feed wet foods T' 
 how do they effect fowls ? 
 
 Too wet feed causes diarrhoea, di- 
 lutes the intestinal juices too much 
 and soon knocks the chickens off 
 their legs. A good dough may be 
 made of corn meal, oat meal, wheat 
 bran and boiled vegetables mashed 
 in the proportion of one third of 
 each, and wet with milk or water, 
 the former preferred. Wet feed may 
 be occasionally allowed as a variety, 
 but dry feed is always better. 
 
 XJie Grain Jtation. — How much graiir 
 should be given 18 hens for dinner and sup- 
 per ? 
 
 We would not advise a noon meaL 
 The regular allowance, (or estimate) 
 of grain is one quart per day for 12 
 hens, with other food as a variety, 
 but no estimate can really be made, 
 as no two hens are alike. Some will 
 consume twice as much as others, 
 and a laying hen requires more 
 meat than the non-layer. If too 
 much grain is eaten the hen may 
 become too fat to lay. An excellent 
 way to estimate is to allow four 
 ounces of mixed food (grain, clover, 
 cabbage, etc.) for each fowl. 
 
 Feeding for Fattening. — When Is the 
 proper time to begin to feed fowls for fatten- 
 ing? 
 
 Fattening must not be begun until 
 the fowl has attained its full growth, 
 as growing animals or birds do not 
 fatten as readily as adults, although 
 of course all extra food that will be 
 digested is never lost. The pullets 
 ai"e best taken before they have be- 
 gun toJ,lay; the male birds when 
 their tails begin to turn, that is 
 when the two sickle feathers begin 
 to top the straight feathers of the 
 tail. The average age will be four 
 months in summer and iive to six in 
 winter, but will be early according 
 as the previous feeding has or has 
 not been judiciously generous. 
 
Five Hundbbd Questions akd Akswebs 
 
 Seeding CAicfc*.— What is the best feed to 
 give young chicks, say until they are four or 
 six weeks old 7 Is there any danger of over- 
 feeding chicks of that age, or is it proper to 
 keep a dish of cracked wheat or corn before 
 them all the time ? Is sweet milk, butter- 
 jmilk or curds good for chicks ? In fattening 
 «hickens for market, what kind of feeding 
 gives the best results ? 
 
 The first feed should be pin head 
 oat meal, varied with cooked ground 
 grain (or bread), and then mixed 
 grain, such as wheat and cracked 
 corn, (as soon as they can eat it) 
 with mashed potatoes fed every two 
 hours the first week, then four times 
 a day. Also give a little meat three 
 times a week. We do not think you 
 can feed growing chicks too much. 
 
 The sweet milk etc., is good if 
 fresh. Plenty of cracked corn and 
 mashed potatoes are good for fatten- 
 ing chicks. Young chicks require 
 neither feed nor drink on the day on 
 which they are hatched; in fact, both 
 are injurious, as they interfere with 
 the natural digestion of the yolk, 
 which is absorbed into the bowels at 
 the period of hatching and consti- 
 tutes the first feed. 
 
 Bowo« a« n Voultry feed.— With corn at 
 $1.50 per bushel, what do yon consider the 
 value of green bone as poultry feed after it 
 has passed through a bone cutter ? 
 
 When corn reaches $1.50 per bushel 
 feed may be considered high. The 
 usual estimated allowance of corn, 
 or its equivalant, for a hen, for one 
 year, is five pecks, valued where 
 corn is worth §1.50 per bushel, at 
 '$1.87^. At about 20 cents per dozen 
 for eggs (as an average price) a hen 
 must lay iO dozen eggs a year, to 
 give a profit on the feed, and when 
 the estimate is made for a whole 
 flock the probability is that nine 
 dozen eggs per year will be nearer 
 the number. Green bones, cut (they 
 cannot be ground,) contain meat, oil 
 and phosphate of lime. The bones 
 also contain a considerable propor- 
 tion of nitrogen independent of the 
 adhering meat, cartilage and mar- 
 row. As they differ in composition 
 from grain, a proper comparison is 
 not easily made between the two, 
 especially as much depends on the 
 kind tf bones, and the amount of 
 meat adheriug to them, and whether 
 it is fat or Ifan. Bones are more 
 concentrated t(jod than grain, about 
 one oauce of cut bone being con- 
 sidered a fair allowance for each hen 
 per day, or about 33 pounds^ per 
 year. 
 
 The bones alone are not sufficient, 
 as the fowls will need also grain and 
 green feed, but bones may assist hi 
 reducing the quantity of grain re- 
 quired. Grain is not a complete- 
 feed either, and in feeding bones or. 
 other feed, the allowance of fiv» 
 pecks of corn is reduced in propor- 
 tion to the amount of other feed 
 given as a substitute The value of 
 23 pounds of green bones depends 
 upon the locality. We buy them 
 from the butcher at two cents per 
 pound, but probably could not get 
 them at all if there were a strong 
 competition to secure them. The 
 labor of grinding the bones is also 
 an item, but cut bones just as they 
 come from the mill, and as fine as 
 sausage meat, are now on the mar- 
 ket, in small boxes, at five cents per 
 pound. At this price the 23 pounds 
 would be valued at $1.15, which 
 would be cheaper than corn at $1.87^ 
 for five pecks. The bone being 
 more concentrated (containing less 
 water than corn) is really more val- 
 uable, bulk for bulk, than corn. 
 Leaving out the labor of grinding, 
 the bones are valued at 46 cents. 
 This estimate is made for a year's 
 supply of corn and of bones. It 
 must not be overlooked that bones 
 alone will not answer. Five pecks 
 of corn a year is an allowance of 
 about three ounces per day to each 
 hen. By reducing the amount of 
 grain to li ounces, and the amount 
 of bone to half an ounce, the pro- 
 portions will be fair, but of course, 
 in feeding, it is to be considered 
 that the hen requires less help 
 in the shape of food in summer; 
 green food is also a factor, and the 
 condition and breed of the hens ar« 
 very important considerations to 
 say nothing of the fact that appe- 
 tites differ, and that individual 
 characteristics must be observed. 
 
 Miscellaneous Inquiries. 
 
 What shall I feed molting hens ? 
 (Give a variety of food. Meat and 
 bone twice a week. A teaspoonf ul 
 of linseed meal in the grain daily.) 
 Is buckwheat bran good for chicks 
 when wet up ? (Yes ) Are refuse 
 crackers good for fowls? (Excellent.) 
 How will it do to feed fowls with 
 bran, mixed with potatoes ? (It is 
 excellent.) Is bran, cornmeal and 
 ground feed, mixed with water, 
 good for a morning feed ? (Yes.) Is 
 popcorn equal to corn as food for 
 fowls and chicks ? (Yes, better, as it 
 contains more nitrogen and phos- 
 
Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 phates.) Is stove coal and cinders 
 from the stove good for laying hens? 
 (Of no value except for the hens to 
 pick over for grit.) Would crushed 
 cuttle bone (same as used for canary 
 birds) be of any benefit to chickens? 
 Would it be a substitute for ordinary 
 bone ? (It is of no value.) Is the 
 small white clover as good as the red 
 for use in feeding poultry ? (Yes ; it 
 is fully equal to the red.) Is the 
 refuse from a distillery good for 
 chickens ? Rye is what they use. 
 (If fed moderately it is excellent.) 
 Should buckwheat be fed whole or 
 ground ? (Either mode will answer, 
 but it is usually fed whole.) How 
 could a person keep green clover 
 enough to feed 400 chickens all win- 
 ter? (You cannot well keep it green 
 without the use of the silo.) Is brew- 
 ery grain in] urious for hens to eat? 
 Also cracked acorns, which they 
 like so much. (Not injurious if fed 
 moderately.) Is lettuce good for 
 young chickens or will it make them 
 sleepy and dumpish? (Excellent) 
 Will cotton-seed meal, if fed to fowls 
 too much, cause the eggs to fail to 
 hatch? (it is fattening, but being of 
 a constipating tendency is seldom 
 used.) Is water cress good for fowlfe? 
 (Yes: Excellent.) 
 
 Feeding Condensed in a Nutshell. 
 
 Avoid tonics, condition powders, 
 etc., in the poultry yard. 
 
 Always keep your hens at work. 
 An ideal hen is never a good layer. 
 
 Good warm shelter saves feed, and 
 the better is the cheaper and the 
 lower its cost. 
 
 Fresh meat and bone, cut with a 
 bone cutter, will make hens lay 
 when all other feeds fail. 
 
 Give warm water, three times a 
 day, in winter. It is invigorating, 
 and is superior to tonics. 
 
 Grain is deficient in lime and 
 mineral matter, but bran is rich in 
 nitrogen, carbon and mineral mat- 
 ter. 
 
 Linseed and cotton seed (cake or 
 meal) is excellent given occasionally. 
 
 More damage is done by overfeed- 
 ing than from roosting in the trees 
 and allowing no food. Both are ex- 
 tremes. 
 
 Beans and peas, cooked and thick- 
 ened with bran, and fed twice a 
 week, make an excellent feed for 
 laying hens. 
 
 The cardinal foods — cut clover 
 hay, meat and bone, and mixed 
 grain, the clover in the morning and 
 the latter at night. 
 
 Breed is everything. The ma- 
 chine for converting feed into eggs 
 must be of the best to be had. Any- 
 thing and everything will not do. 
 
 If the hens have a range in the 
 summer they will need no feed at 
 all. It should cost nothing to pro- 
 duce eggs in summer. 
 
 When your birds have bowel 
 disease change the feed for a day or 
 two, and change the grit. One-half 
 the troubles are from the lack of 
 sharp, hard grit. 
 
 Cooked turnips or potatoes, with 
 chopped clover, and thickened with 
 ground corn and oats, makes the 
 feed for ducks and geese, and is ex- 
 cellent for hens also. 
 
 One quart of grain feed per day, 
 for ten hens, is considered liberal 
 feeding. This is equivalent to five 
 pecks a year to each hen. If grass 
 and meat are fed give only half the 
 grain. 
 
 The hen, like the cow, must be 
 given bulky feed. Give her all the 
 chopped clover, scalded, that she 
 can eat; The clover, with one 
 ounce of lean meat per day, will 
 soon compel her to lay. 
 
 Common fowls are nondescripts, no 
 two being alike. One flock of com- 
 mon fowls may be something differ- 
 ent from another. Economize in 
 feed by using the breeds, so as to 
 understand their characteristics. 
 
 The ordinary ground meat will 
 keep any length of time. It is the 
 residuum of soap factories after the 
 fat has been extracted under hydrau- 
 lic pressure, and with the aid of 
 superheated steam. 
 
 Separate the layers from the 
 others. You cannot keep old hens, 
 pullets, fat hens, and lean hens to- 
 gether any more than you can keep 
 dry cows, heifers not yet in milk, 
 and fresh cows together, for they do 
 not require the same feed. 
 
 Leghorns and Brahmas cannot 
 thrive together. Have your flocks 
 uniform. When you send to a 
 breeder for eggs of pure breeds re- 
 member that in that case " eggs are 
 not eggs." It is the stock you seek, 
 not eggs particularly. You can get 
 eggs at home, but not stock of the 
 kind you wish. 
 
CHAPTER il. 
 
 I3ise£Lses of Poi:iltP3r. 
 
 Roup, its Causes, Symptoms and Treat- 
 ment. 
 
 Causes of Roup. — Roup has its 
 chief cause in a cold and a cold may 
 be taken in numerous ways, chief of 
 which are draughts of winds blowing 
 0ver and upon the fowls while at 
 roost. Whatever may cause colds, 
 this is true that if neglected they are 
 liable to terminate in rouD and 
 when a fowl has roup in earnest, 
 the chanaces are against the fowl's 
 recovery. The proper time to 
 treat a bird for roup is just be- 
 fore she has it or in other words 
 treat her on the first appearance of 
 a cold. With proper care, roup need 
 ne'ver enter a flock. Prevention is 
 always better than cure. 
 
 Symptoms of Roup-Cold —These 
 are sneezing, hoarseness, wheezy- 
 breathing, eyes watery with a whit 
 ish foamy matter, and a discharge 
 of a watery nature from the nostrils 
 which sometimes hangs in little bub- 
 bles on the. beak. This is the time 
 to begin the treatment, for the next 
 stage is more serious and may be 
 known by an increased rattling in 
 the throat, yellowish discharge from 
 nostrils which has an offensive odor, 
 swelling of head, eyes closed, ulcer- 
 ated throat, fever, discoloration of 
 eomb, when death is pretty sure to 
 follow. 
 
 Treatment of Roup. — Remedies 
 are numerous though what proves 
 effective in one ca8« may not in an- 
 other. We have invited some of the 
 most experienced fanciers in the 
 United States to contribute their 
 practical remedies for this disease, 
 lor this edition of "Five Hundred 
 Questions and Answers" and we pre- 
 sent them in the hope that some one 
 or all may prove helpful to the poul- 
 trymen who may have occasion to 
 try them. 
 
 Roup, says Stoddard's "Poultry 
 Diseases." is a disease of the lining 
 membrance of the beak, extending, 
 
 however, to the whole head and 
 throat, through the tear duct to 
 the eye, and finally affecting the 
 whole constitution. In fatal cases 
 death ensues on three to eight days 
 after the specific roup symptoms 
 show themselves, and cases not 
 treated are generally fatal whenever 
 the malady appears as an epidemic 
 in its severe form. After death the 
 gall, bladder and liver are found full 
 of pus; the flesh has a bad odor and 
 is soft, slimy and spongy, especially 
 about the lungs. There are many 
 other names under which this mal- 
 ady is often described; swelled eyes, 
 diphtheria, sore head, hoarseness, 
 bronchitis, d,sthma, snuffles, can- 
 ker, blindness, influenza, sore throat, 
 quinsy, etc., but some of these con- 
 ditions may exist even when roup is 
 not present. The causes of roup, 
 like the causes of cholera, do not all 
 need special enumeration here. 
 Anything that lowers the tone of 
 the fowl, bad food, bad housing, 
 lice, bad ventilation, filthy houses, 
 etc. A very prominent cause, how- 
 ever, is exposure to cold and wet. 
 So prominent is this, and so marked 
 is the commencement of the disease 
 at the beak, that it might almost be 
 called malignant catarrh, and it is 
 possibly nothing more. Influenza 
 in the human being sometimes as- 
 sumes a distinctive form, and fowls 
 are sometimes destroyed by colds 
 alone. Roup, therefore, is most com- 
 mon in autumn and winter and 
 where fowls are exposed to wet, cold 
 draughts and damp sunless quarters. 
 The disease is contagious, from con- 
 tact with the discharge, either when 
 a diseased fowl touches another 
 or when a well fowl gets the dis- 
 charge through the drinking foun- 
 tain orotherwise. It can also, if 
 brought into contact with the human 
 eye, or with a wound or an abraded 
 surface on the hand, cause serious in- 
 flammation, so that caution is need- 
 ful in handling the fowl. 
 
 Symptoms: — It may come on sud- 
 denly, or slowly, with previous signs 
 
It 
 
 Five HirifDRBD Questioits and Answers 
 
 of geaeral debility, moping, etc. 
 The first signs are those of catarrh 
 or cold in the head, dry cough and 
 dull wheezing. Much fever; The 
 fowls drink eagerly. The combs and 
 wattles may be pale or dark colored. 
 The cold grows worse. There is a 
 yellowish discharge, thin and watery 
 at first, which grows thicker and 
 thicker, and fills — in severe eases — 
 throat, nostrels and eyes, the latter 
 being closed and swollen even to the 
 size of a walnut and the sides of the 
 face may swell up. Pustules form 
 all about the head and in the gullet, 
 and discharge a frothy pus. The 
 crop is generally swollen, though 
 not always. The blinded fowls can- 
 not see to eat or drink, and this 
 hastens the fatal end. The discharge 
 has a bad odor, and this is the one 
 most distinctive symptom of the 
 roup. The clogging of the nostrils 
 also seriously impedes the breathing. 
 In all this, there does not seem to be 
 any trace of special poison; it is like 
 typhoid infiuenza. One of the best 
 means of detecting the approach of 
 roup is to lift the wing of the sus- 
 pected bird and see if there is not a 
 spot there where the feathers are 
 smeared with a discharge from the 
 beak, which has rubbed off when 
 the bird has put its head under its 
 wing at nigrht. Also invariably look 
 at the nostrils and see if they are 
 clean and free from the slightest 
 clogging. Gro the rounds at night 
 with a lantern and inspect your 
 birds. Listen then for rattling or 
 sneezing. 
 
 Treatment: — First and foremost, 
 put the diseased fowls by themselves, 
 if possible, each one separately, and 
 aa to cleaning, etc., proceed exactly 
 as recommended in the treatment of 
 cholera. Take all possible means to 
 prevent any of the discharge com ng 
 in contact- with any other fowl, 
 which renders thorough purification 
 ',of the drinking vessels, etc, neces- 
 sary. Some preparation of car- 
 bolic acid is good for this purpose. 
 Gf^ive warm, stimulating food, house 
 in a warm, dry place, with a sandy 
 bottom. Various fjlans are followed 
 for the internal treatment of the sick 
 fowl, most of which are often sue 
 cessful. A mild purge at the begin - 
 jning, as for instance a spoonful of 
 'castor oil is advi.sable. German 
 Roup Pills are highly recommended. 
 In addition to the above, some stim- 
 ulants, such as mustard or pulverized 
 finger in pills as large as a pea, 
 given thrice daily, with cayenne 
 
 pepper in the food and water.l The 
 rule for pepper in the soft food is to 
 season as strongly as if for human 
 food ; in the drink, make it as strong 
 as your own "pepper tea." Dr. Ben- 
 nett recommends, thrice a day, a 
 pill of the size of a hazelnut made of 
 equal parts of pulverized sulphur, 
 powdered charcoal and new yeast. 
 To this must be added the mustard^ 
 etc., stimulants. Powdered charcoal 
 should be added freely to the soft 
 food always in this disease. It puri- 
 fies the digestive organs against the 
 foul matter in the throat which the 
 patient is obliged to swallow. In 
 any plan of treatment, if the disease 
 runs several days the purge should 
 be repeated. Besides the dosing, 
 the eyes, throat and face must be 
 carefully attended to. Wash the 
 head thoroughly with castile soap- 
 suds, or better, with Labarraque's 
 Solution of Chlorinated Soda, mixed 
 with two parts of water, several 
 times a day if there be much dis- 
 charge. If the throat be clogged 
 with the secretion, clear out and use 
 the cM. sod. here also, applying it 
 with a camel's-hair brush. The 
 swelling of the eyes may generally 
 be reduced by a patient bathing, 
 but sometimes an operation is neces- 
 sary to remove the deposit. Nitric 
 acid, applied with a feather into the 
 nostrils twice or thrice, is sometimes 
 used, taking off the old scab at each 
 application. Do not be in a hurry 
 to return the fowl, after recovery, 
 to the flock. 
 
 TREATMENT FOR ROUP, ETC., BY PRACTI- 
 CAL POlLTRYiMEN. 
 
 The following treatments for the 
 diseases named are recommended by 
 leading fanciers and will be found 
 invaluable. They are written es- 
 pecially forthis book. The authors' 
 names are prefixed. 
 
 Philander Williams:— I use 
 camphorated oil for roup and it will 
 cure any case if taken in time. I 
 keep it in a small can with spring 
 bottom and inject the oil in the 
 fowl's nostrils. It is also good for 
 canker. It is well to add 5 drops of 
 carbolic acid to each ounce of cam- 
 phorated oil. 
 
 F. B. ZiMMER: — As soon as I notice 
 the first signs of a "cold" I give one 
 or two doses of cod liver oil and cam 
 phor and they "knock it crazy." But 
 if it is neglected for a day or two, 
 (jiLithefa and good care saves them. 
 
Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 11 
 
 Good quarters and good care amount 
 to more than a whole drug store of 
 remedies. Cholera and indigestion I 
 prevent by proper care and food. 
 
 H. S. Babcock: — Under the term 
 "roup'' is embraced a variety of dis- 
 ■eases ranging from a common cold 
 to a distemper resulting in, to all ap- 
 pearances, blood poisoning. For a 
 <jold nothing is better than warm 
 quarters, with a few drops of aconite 
 in the drinking water, the supply 
 being limited in quantity to insure 
 the taking of medicine. For the 
 more violent form of roup I have 
 found nothing better than the ex- 
 ternal use of bromo chloralum, dil- 
 luted one-half in water, bathing the 
 affected parts and also injecting the 
 same up the nostrils. To this treat 
 ment I add a liberal use of sulphur 
 in the food, making the food at the 
 same time stimulating in character. 
 Give fullest ventilation and keep 
 quarters clean, dry and warm as pos 
 sible without fire. 
 
 Canker. — Remove the deposits, 
 causing as little bleeding as possible. 
 Touch the affected parts with tine 
 ture of iodine. Sulphur is often effi- 
 cacious in such cases, as also is 
 borax. 
 
 E. E. Edwards:— For roup take 
 three parts of glycerine, one part of 
 turpentine, mix the two well to- 
 gether, having half-teaspoonful of 
 both. Give part down throat of 
 fowl and rub rest on nostrils. I have 
 treated several fowls this way. it ef- 
 fecting a cure. I treat the fowl when 
 first symptoms appear. 
 
 Jones Wilcox:— A valuable rem- 
 edy for all throat and head troubles 
 (roup in all its forms) is to confine 
 the fowls in hen house and fumigate 
 with pine tar and spirits turpentine 
 in equal parts Put these in an iron 
 vessel and ignite with a coal of fire 
 or match. 
 
 Among other remedies given by 
 writers on the subject in various 
 books and periodicals are the follow- 
 ing: . 
 
 Anoint the fowl's head and neck 
 twice a day for two or three days 
 with strong vinegar. Put logwood 
 in drinking vessels on which pour 
 lukewarm water. Give no other 
 drink. Do not confine too closely. 
 
 Stephen Beal in his "Profitable 
 Poultry Keeping" remarks that a 
 
 cold never becomes roup unless th« 
 blood is in a scrofulous condition. 
 Sulphur or charcoal are best to cor 
 rect the scrofula and copaiba cap- 
 sules should be used for the cold. 
 Wash head with chlorinated soda. 
 Purify all drinking vessels, etc., with 
 a wash of dilute carbolic ar-id. 
 
 A writer in the "Southern Fan- 
 cier" says: "If roup is let run until 
 the ease is well developed, take alum 
 water as strong as it can well be 
 made, and mix with one third its 
 quantity strong vinegar and wash 
 tbe head well and see that the nos- 
 trils are clear, so the solution can be 
 forced through. This remedy ap- 
 plied once or twice a day will cure 
 ninety-nine out of a hundred cases. 
 Separate all diseased fowls and keep 
 them in a warm place. Burnt alum 
 applied to the sores after scabs are 
 removed will care canker every fime_, 
 but must be frequently repeated and 
 well dusted in." 
 
 London "Poultry" gives this: 
 Three drops of spirits of camphor 
 put on a piece of bread and fed to 
 roupy fowls produced a cure. An- 
 other recipe is a teaspoonful of crude 
 carbolic acid in a pint of water, as a" 
 wash. Rub glycerine around eyes. 
 Inject carbolic acid and water with 
 a small syringe. 
 
 Mr. C. *E. Watson in "New Eng- 
 land Fancier" says: A quick and 
 sure cure for roup is as follows: 
 Take a small glass syringe, fiiJl once 
 with clear whiskey and inject in 
 pa,ssage from roof of mouth outward 
 through the nostrils. This remedy 
 applied two nights in succession has 
 never failed with me. I used it 
 twice on my best Langshan pullet 
 when she was so far gone she could 
 breathe merely by gasping, and was 
 too weak to stand. I was advised 
 to wring her neck, but in 48 hours 
 she was back in the coop as bright 
 and chipper as ever. 
 
 Mr. W. McNeil in "Canadian Poul- 
 try Review," say&: The best cure I 
 ever found for roup is to take two 
 ounces of the best vinegar, one table- 
 spoonful of pulverized alum, one 
 tablespoonful of sugar of lead ; put 
 all into one bottle. Bathe birds' 
 head and nostrils well, night and 
 morning. This will cure the worst 
 case of roup. 
 
 The "Poultry Keeper" is a strong 
 advocate of spongia. This is a 
 homeopathic remedy, and com«* 
 either as pellets or as the mother 
 tincture. To prevent roup, put fir* 
 drops of tincture, or fifteen pelletsj 
 
13 
 
 Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 in a quart of the drinking water and 
 g^ve no other water to drink. For 
 sick birds double the quantity of 
 spongia to the water. There is no 
 handling of the birds. The drink- 
 ing vessels should be clean. 
 
 Another good roup cure is bromo- 
 chloralum, mixed with equal quan- 
 tity of water. Ten cents worth is 
 enough to get at one time. With a 
 sewing machine oil can inject two or 
 three drops in each nostril, twice a 
 day, and two or three drops down 
 the throat. Every night giVe the 
 bird a pill of assafoetida, the size of 
 a grain of corn, and sift a little red 
 pepper on their soft food till birds 
 get better. A similar treatment is 
 to inject into the nostrils five drops 
 of a mixture of bromo-chloralum and 
 water, equal parts, and then pour 
 down the throat a mixture of a tea- 
 spoonful of warm lard and two drops 
 carbolic acid. 
 
 Roup and cholera are often con- 
 founded by the inexperienced. Roup 
 may linger for months, cholera "kills 
 or cures" inside of 36 hours. The 
 difficulty in treating roup is the 
 handling of the birds. The bromo- 
 chloralum remedy is among the best. 
 Add, also, 40 grains of permangenate 
 of potash to each gallon of the drink- 
 ing water. 
 
 CANKER. 
 
 Canker shows itself upon the cor- 
 ners of the mouth usually, at first, 
 and is really one form of roup. 
 Then the yellowish white spots ap- 
 pear upon the face and wattles. It 
 spreads rapidly, however, and we 
 know cases where in thirty-six 
 hours from its first showing the roof 
 of the upper mandible, the tongue 
 and the nostrils were completely 
 covered with this offensive and 
 troublesome sore. It should be 
 taken in hand promptly, when first 
 discovered. The bird affected with 
 canker ought not to be permitted to 
 remain an hour in the same pen or 
 run with wpU fowls It will go 
 from one bird to another with won- 
 derful celerity, and the fancier who 
 finds it fairly started in his flock 
 should immediately remove the sick 
 fowl to a place by itself. Upon old 
 hens or upon game cocks after they 
 have been fought or "exercised," if 
 it breaks out, it is very hard to cure. 
 Unless the fowl be a really valuable 
 one, the i)roces8 is so slow in removing 
 it that it hardly pays for the trouble 
 it causes. Upon games old cockers 
 
 use saline washes and alum water, 
 frequently bathing and cleansing 
 the disordered parts, ofttimes with 
 success at last. An alternate wash- 
 ing of burnt alum dissolved in new 
 rum and chlorate of potash in a rum 
 solution is excellent. The sor« 
 places should be cleansed thorough- 
 ly every morning and evening, and 
 the canker removed daily. If taken 
 in its very earliest stages, the canker 
 spots may be advantageously 
 touched with a weak solution of 
 nitrate of silver. This will burn off 
 the sores if followed up before they 
 get too soft and pulpy. 
 
 Another remedy is to first remove 
 all cankerous matter possible. Wash 
 out the mouth and throat with 
 water, then apply with a soft brush 
 equal parts tincture of myrrh, borax 
 and chlorate of potash till the sor* 
 looks clean, then dust with pow- 
 dered borax till healed. In som* 
 cases ordinary Dalmatian insect 
 powder, when slightly sprinkled on 
 the roof of the mouths, (only a pinch 
 being used) has proved beneficial. 
 
 THE GAPES. 
 
 Gapes are caused by a coUectioa 
 of small thread-like worms in th« 
 the wind pipe of the chicken. To 
 kill these worms and not hurt th« 
 chicken is the requirement. Coal 
 oil of the cheaper grades is a mora 
 effectual insecticide than the refined. 
 Dr. Elzey's method is to take a small 
 glass tube with a small rubber bulk, 
 which apothecaries sell for a "medi- 
 cine dropper," half fill it with coal 
 oil, and inserting the tip into th» 
 windpipe, discharge the oil. The 
 gapes are cured. A small oil can 
 used for sewing machines will do in 
 place of the medicine dropper. 
 Operate as follows: Place the 
 chicken back down, between your 
 knees, and hold him gently; open 
 his bill and draw the tongue out. 
 Seize the lower mandible and tongue 
 thus drawn out between the fore- 
 finger and thumb nail of the left 
 hand. This will bring into view the 
 opening of the windpipe at the base 
 of the tongue, into which gently in- 
 sert the tube and discharge the oil. 
 Close the bill, and hold the head 
 still for a few seconds. Then let the 
 chicken go and he will cough, spat- 
 tering some of the oil out, but 
 enough remains to destroy the 
 worms and they will be coughed up 
 and swallowed. The gapes continue 
 for a time after the treatment, but 
 the remedy will be effectual in every 
 
Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 18 
 
 ease if properly applied, and it may 
 readily be repeated, if thought worth 
 while, as often as necessary. After 
 a little practice it is easily applied 
 and always succeeds. 
 
 The easiest treatment, according 
 to "Poultry Diseases,'' is to put 
 some carbolic acid of the clear, trans- 
 parent quality into a spoon or metal 
 saucer and hold it over a lamp. 
 Dense, white fumes will arise. Hold 
 the chicken's head in these until it 
 is nearly suffocated. Or, shut all the 
 affected chickens into a box and 
 fumigate them together, but watch 
 then closely lest they be killed. 
 Burned sulphur fumes will also do 
 very well for this purpose. The 
 vapor of spirits of turpentine and of 
 creosote are also recommended. 
 Another method is to take a feather, 
 which has been stripped of all the 
 webbed portion save its tip, and dip 
 it into spirits of turpentine or kero- 
 sene and thrust it into the windpipe 
 and turn it around several times. 
 Some of the worms will be killed, 
 some will come out with the feather, 
 some will be coughed out at once ; 
 catch on a sheet of paper and burn 
 them all. The opening of the wind 
 pipe is easily found at the base of 
 the tongue. 
 
 As the subject is very important, 
 we add still other methods of treat- 
 ment recommended. Camphor has 
 been given in pills the size of a pea, 
 with success. Alum and sulphur in 
 the form of fine powder, blown 
 down the throat, will destroy the 
 worms. Lime in the air will also 
 effect the purpose, and may be ap- 
 plied by putting the chickens into a 
 box covered with fine muslin and 
 sifting fine lime through this, but 
 not so fast as to smother the chicken. 
 Another method, by some deemed 
 doubtful and dangerous, is to pinch 
 the chickens throat ; this will crush 
 the worms and cause them to loosen 
 their hold, when they will be 
 coughed up. 
 
 It has been discovered that fresh 
 insect powder, blown into the 
 mouth or windpipe, is excellent. 
 Keep the chicks on new and clean 
 ground, or on boards, and dust air- 
 slaked lime freely over their runs. 
 
 CHOLERA. 
 
 This name is given to a disorder of 
 obscure origin and character, which 
 has proved itself to be one of the 
 most rapidly destructive known to 
 poultry keepers. Anything that 
 
 tends to lower the constitutional 
 vigor of the fowl will render it liable 
 to an excess of this disease. Un- 
 wholesome food, given at irregular 
 periods, impure and stagnant water 
 as a drink, exposure to the weather 
 or to the depressing heat of the sun 
 without shade, all of these causes, 
 so readily enumerated, increase the 
 liability of the fowl to this disorder, 
 as well as to many others. Among 
 the causes most prominent in foster- 
 ing the disease is, it is agreed on all 
 hands, an over-crowded condition of 
 the coops. In the first place such a 
 condition of things is directly de- 
 pressing to the fowls ; in the second 
 place the bad air makes good soil for 
 the development of poisonous 
 "germs," if any such there be. 
 Cholera has been known, however, 
 to attack flocks that are not kept 
 in houses at all. Such cases can b« 
 explained by the fact that fowls 
 thus kept are generally badly pro- 
 tected from the weather, and beside 
 this, they really crowd together at 
 their roosting places, which are sura 
 to be tainted by an accumulation of 
 droppings. Cholera seems also to be 
 more prevalent in very hot and in 
 very dry seasons. 
 
 It is thought to be infectious, but 
 the infection does not seem to travel 
 very far. Fowls roosting near fowls 
 sick with cholera will catch it, but 
 whether from them or from their 
 droppings does not appear. This is 
 the gist of the grounds of the state- 
 ment that the specific poison which 
 produces cholera is generated locally 
 on premises where the disease exists, 
 though it may be carried by pigeons, 
 or birds from other yards. 
 
 Lesions. — The organ most changed 
 is the liver. This is found enlarged, 
 dark green, full of dark blood, con- 
 gested and usually tender; it can 
 easily be crushed in the hand. The 
 gizzard is softer and sometimes 
 much smaller than natural, and con- 
 tains half digested food. The crop 
 and intestines are often full of sour, 
 fermenting food, and ulcerated, and 
 the intestines are much inflamed 
 and "sore," that is, excoriated. The 
 testicles have been found much 
 altered. The condition of the liver 
 now is the main thing to be noted. 
 Of course, you will find the brain, 
 nerves and lungs more or less con- 
 gested, full of darker blood than 
 usual, and the heart perhaps en- 
 larged. The blood is darker and 
 thicker than usual, and this condi- 
 tion, together with that of the liver, 
 
14 
 
 Five Hundred Questiois^s and Answers 
 
 ate thought by Dr. Dickie to exist 
 io no other disease. The liver is not 
 oiily the organ most altered, but 
 apparently it is the one attacked 
 first. 
 
 Symptoms and Diagnosis. — The 
 disease must be made out before 
 death, rather from its sudden epi 
 demie character than anything else. 
 It comes suddenly in some cases; a 
 fowl well to-day may be dead to- 
 mo'Tow, and a whole flock may be 
 thus rapidly carried off. In fact, it 
 kills within 36 hours. The dis 
 charges are thought by some authori- 
 ties to be decisive. These are mild 
 at first, are yellowish green, or like 
 sulphur and water, becoming thin- 
 ner, greener, and more frothy as the 
 disease goes on, and never stopping 
 until the fowl is dead. The breath- 
 ing becomes heavy and fast, the 
 crop fills, with mucous and wind; at 
 last the food is not digested, the 
 eyes close, and in a few hours the 
 fowl dies." There is weakness, some- 
 times extreme, at the commence- 
 ment of the disease; the fowl may 
 even be unable to stand well. It 
 does not plume itself, and has a 
 general sleepy, moping appearance. 
 At the later period, the dark, thick- 
 ened blood may turn the comb and 
 wattles dark, or may readily flow 
 through them, so they become pale. 
 There is much fever, great thirst, 
 and a rapid, weak pulse. Cramps 
 may occur The fowl may die from 
 the digestive disturbances, or ap- 
 parently from paralysis of the heart 
 or lungs, caused by the poisoned 
 blood. Intense thirst is a symptom 
 which is a sure indication. 
 
 Treatment. — You cannot save the 
 lives of all of those attacked, neither 
 will the same treatment that is good 
 in the North succeed in the South. 
 Remove your vihole flock at once to 
 clean quarters, if possible to some 
 gravelly site that has never been 
 used before for stock, and see that 
 they are healthily housed there, and 
 in all regards in a healthful condi 
 tion. Heparatf the sick from the 
 well, and if it were possible it would 
 be well to to have every hen, espec 
 i(Zlly every s'ck hen, have a i^lace 
 apart. This is practicable enough 
 with some valuable pets. 
 
 The following is a treatment of 
 th9 disease: As the birds will not 
 eal add a teaspoonful of liquid car 
 bQlic acid to each galjlpp of the 
 drinking water. The remedy is 
 heroic, but there is no sure cure. Do 
 not mistake cholera for indigestion. 
 
 Remember that cholera kills quieh- 
 ly, and the birds always have intenw 
 thirst. 
 
 Diarrhcea. — How should fowls affe«t«il 
 with diarrhoea be treated ? 
 
 Too much feed may cause it, and 
 it is often mistaken for cholera. 
 When birds are very fat, fed oa 
 grain exclusively, do not have a va- 
 riety, or lack grit, the result will be 
 diarrhoea. The remedy is to with- 
 hold all feed for 48 hours, and then 
 allow, for a few days, a pound of 
 lean meat, co'^ked, to 20 birds, one© 
 a day. Add 20 drops tincture of nux 
 vomica to each quart of drinking 
 water, which avoids handling. A 
 gill of linseed-meal, it), soft feed for 
 six hens, may be given once a day, 
 for two or three days, after they im- 
 prove. DiarrhcBa in chicks occurs 
 mostly from lack of warmth, hence 
 plenty of warmth is essential. Grive 
 cooked feed, and add ten drops tine- 
 ture nux vomica to each quart of 
 their drinking water. Roup always 
 attackschicks in the bowels,henee if 
 they die off, as if by a contagious 
 diarrhoea, there is no remedy, though 
 warmth may saye some. 
 
 DifcJiarge at Nostrils. — Is a discharge at 
 the nostrils a sure indication of roup 7 
 
 It indicates a cold, usually from a 
 top draught of air from some source, 
 and may lead to roup. 
 
 Indigestion.— Gi'^Q remedies for indiges- 
 tion in fowls. 
 
 Indigestion may produce either 
 constipation, by causing inflamma- 
 tion, or diarrhoea or dysentery. It 
 may be accompanied by a fever or 
 loss of appetite, and apparently pain 
 in the stomach. The crop is some- 
 times swollen, and the liver may be- 
 come seriously affected. It is some- 
 times due to cold but is generally 
 due to too much or too stimulating 
 diet. Cut down the diet to a little 
 meat and bone, and give grass or 
 green food. (See Diarrhoea.) 
 
 XcfiT Weahness.— My hens seem unable t« 
 move about on their legs. What ails theia T 
 
 It is usually the results of a fat 
 condition of the hens and the heavy 
 weight of the male, his attentions 
 causing injury to the spine. The 
 remedy is to remove the male. 
 Fowls, especially cockerels that grow 
 too fast, squat down on the ground. 
 
Five Hundred QiTBSTioirs and Answers 
 
 15 
 
 Sometimes there is also a deficiency 
 of earthy matter in the bones. Bone 
 dust may be freely used. Feed with 
 aubstances which do not tend to fat ; 
 wheat barley, meat. Internally may 
 be given iron, three to eight grains 
 of the citrate daily, or some form of 
 iron and quinine. Hinton's recipe 
 is sulphate of iron one grain a day; 
 strychnine one sixteenth of a grain, 
 phosphate of lime five grains, sul- 
 phate of quinine half a grain ; thrice 
 daily. 
 
 Mheumatistn. — What is the cause of and 
 oare for rheumatism ? 
 
 Rheumatism generally comes from 
 exposure to cold and wet, as by run- 
 ning in the wet grass in the morning, 
 wet roosting places, etc., though 
 most frequently from feeding sul- 
 phur in the feed, especially during 
 damp weather. The malady is also 
 hereditary. The symptoms are leg 
 weakness, stiff joints, or contraction 
 of the toes. The treatment consists 
 mainly in warm, dry quarters and 
 good stimulating feed ; a little cooked 
 meat every day. Rub the legs well 
 with hot mustard water, afterwards 
 wiping quite dry. Half a grain of 
 opium (a quarter of a grain for a 
 chicken of three months), night and 
 Kiorning soothes the pain. 
 
 Cholera Symptofns. — What are the symp- 
 toms of chicken caolera, with cure ? 
 
 Symptoms are intense thirst, de- 
 bility, followed by prostration, with 
 greenish droppings. Give a tea- 
 •poonful of carbolic acid in a gallon 
 of water — no other drink. 
 
 Constipation.— 1 have had several cases of 
 tke hindquarters in chickens, both young 
 and old protruding fully an inch. Will 
 you please tell me the cause and give me the 
 remedy ? 
 
 Probably due to constipation. 
 Grive a tablespoonful of linseed oil 
 meal once a day, in the feed, for six 
 hens, and-feed plenty of grass. 
 
 Skin Disease. — What is the matter with 
 aiy chicks ? The down comes off and leaves 
 a scale on their heads. Have looked for lice. 
 
 It may be due to some cutaneous 
 disease. Try anointing the head 
 once a day with a mixture composed j 
 of ten drops of carbolic acid, one i 
 teaspoonf ul cedar oil and a teaspoon- j 
 ful sweet oil. ! 
 
 Vampnesa.—! have out of Beyenty-fivc 
 chickens six or eight roosters—no pullets — 
 with the extended crops, and they draw 
 their heads down to their shoulders and act 
 as though they were stiff. Their legs seem 
 weak.and with dilBculty they can get on low 
 roosts. 
 
 It may be due to the large lice on 
 the heads, or from dampness, bat 
 most probably the former. Anoint 
 heads with a few drops of sweet oil. 
 
 Treatment for Xice.— How can I get rid 
 
 of lice on my fowls ? 
 
 First clean up the premises. Satu- 
 rate kerosene oil over every part, es- 
 pecially on the under side of roosts. 
 Dust fowls well with insect powder. 
 Provide them a dust bath. Grease 
 their heads and necks with warm 
 lard. Repeat this twice or three 
 times a week. It means hard work. 
 
 Moup or Indigestion. — I hate a lot ol 
 chickens as large as quails. They act as 
 though they were choked, epen their 
 mouths to breathe, make a noise like sneer- 
 ing. Some have died. They eat well, ha'ye a 
 free run, are fed corn meal wet with warm 
 water and sour milk, and were growing 
 nicely until taken with this trouble. 
 
 It may be due to exposure, es- 
 pecially during damp weather, fol- 
 lowed by indigestion. Warm qxx&t- 
 ters and anointing their heads with 
 a few drops of sweet oil, will answer. 
 
 Scabby Legs. — Please give a remedy lor 
 scabby legs ! 
 
 Mix a teaspoonful of kerosene and 
 a gill of lard and a little sulph^ij,-. 
 Apply on the legs once a week, tlfre 
 mixture to be warm. Wash occa- 
 sionally with soap. 
 
 Stvollen Crop.— What is the cause and 
 cure of swollen crop ? 
 
 If the crop is soft and puffy it is 
 known ^s "sour crop" and if swollen 
 and feverish is difficult to cure; if 
 hard the passage to the gizzard, is 
 probably obstructed. Taken in 
 time, either case is easily remedied, 
 but at tirues it may be a case requir- 
 ing an incision to remove the con- 
 tents. It is usually caused by sqljie 
 substance obstructing the outlet 
 from thes.crop to.the gizzard. 
 
 Colds. — Please state what is the matter 
 with cockerels or chickens when they inake 
 a noise at night while on their roost wlien 
 
16 
 
 Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 drawing breath lite a person does when he 
 Is gargling his throat. 
 
 It is due to a heavy cold, probably 
 caused by a top draught in poultry 
 house. Sprinkle a pinch of chlorate 
 of potash down the throat once a 
 day. Add a teaspoonf ul of perman- 
 genate of potash to each gallon of 
 the drinking water. Keep them 
 warm and free from draughts. 
 
 Trotible tvitJi Oviduct. — What treatment 
 should be given for inflammation of the ovi- 
 duct ? What causes it ? 
 
 It results from taking cold or un- 
 wholesome feed or feed that is over 
 stimulating. The symptoms are 
 general feverishness, feathers puffed 
 out, continual straining on the part 
 of the hen, imperfect eggs, etc. Re- 
 move hen from the cock and keep 
 her on straw. Give no feed except 
 a teaspoonful of linseed meal, daily, 
 for a week. 
 
 Apoplexy. — I have lost some chickens that 
 acted as though they had a spasm. On ex- 
 amining them found the skin had turned a 
 dark red. They were taken suddenly, and 
 tried to stand on their heads. I feed a warm 
 feed in the morning, oats at noon, corn at 
 night. What is it ? 
 
 This was probably apoplexy — a 
 sudden rush of blood to the head, 
 aud a rupture of a blood vessel there. 
 The remedy is prevention. You 
 have probably been overfeeding, and 
 should give only two meals per day. 
 Reduce the grain feed and give 
 steamed clover or some such bulky 
 feed instead. Above all make them 
 work for their food by obliging 
 them to scratch it up. Exercise is 
 one of the best preventives of dis- 
 ease. 
 
 Worms, 
 
 ■wrorms ? 
 
 -What shall I give for internal 
 
 Give a half teaspoonful of sulphur 
 in food. Worm seed, a tablespoon- 
 ful to six hens three times a week, 
 may be also given. 
 
 Pip.— Please tell me the easiest and best 
 way to take "pip" off hens' tongues. Is the 
 "pip" injurious to the hens ? 
 
 "Pip" is simply a dryness of the 
 tongue, caused by the bird breath- 
 ing through the open mouth. It is 
 mot a disease nor is it dangerous. 
 
 Sulphur.— Vfould it be good policy to mix 
 powdered sulphur with the food for fowls? 
 
 There is sulphur in the eggs, so it 
 is safe to presume that sulphur in 
 their feed would not be advantage- 
 ous. 
 
 Symptoms of Itheumatistn. — I am puzzled 
 to know what is the matter of chickens that 
 lose all strength in their feet and legs ; the 
 toes seem to cramp up, and they are unable 
 to stand. 
 
 This is probably rheumatism, 
 which affects chicks and fowls j ust as 
 it does human beings, and is due to 
 acid in the blood, or is an aciduous 
 condition of the blood. Rub the 
 feet and legs with a good strong 
 liniment, and feed warming, stimu- 
 lating feed ; give them milk to drink. 
 
 Red Mites. — How shall I proceed to get 
 the hen house free of red mites ? 
 
 The red vermin is the red spider, 
 louse or red mite. Kerosene kills 
 them at once, and as their haunts 
 are the cracks and crevices of the 
 roosting poles, and the sides of the 
 buildings, nest boxes, etc., they are 
 easy to destroy. If they are numer- 
 ous go over the whole inside of the 
 building with hot whitewash, sop- 
 ping it on freely, so every crack and 
 crevice is filled. Clean out and 
 whitewash nest boxes, clean up the 
 floor and put in fresh sand, and start 
 all fresh and clean. 
 
 White Comb. — What makes ^he combs of 
 some of my fowls turn white, and what is the 
 treatment ? 
 
 A pale light comb indicates that 
 the bird is not well. A healthy bird 
 has a red comb. When the bird is 
 sick the pale comb appears, and 
 changes to black when the bird is 
 extremely ill. 
 
 Catarrh and Bronchitis. — Please describe 
 catarrh and bronchitis. 
 
 The general symptoms of catarrh 
 are a watery discharge from the eyes 
 and nostrils. Catarrh is identical in 
 appearance with the first stages of 
 the roup. If it extends to the air 
 tubes, then it is called bronchitis, 
 and one of the symptoms is the 
 symptoms is the coughing of the 
 fowl. As soon as the watery dis- 
 charge at the nostrils is discovered, 
 the fowl should be taken to a dry, 
 warm room and fed sparingly on 
 soft feed either warm or lukewarm. 
 
Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 17 
 
 and aconite should be mixed with 
 the drinking water in the propor- 
 tion of eight drops of the tincture to 
 a pint of water. If the discharge at 
 the beak becomes of a putrid and 
 offensive character, you may con- 
 sider that the fowl has the roup. In 
 all cases of catarrh look out for the 
 roup. 
 
 A. Tall Tonic— WiU you name a good tonic 
 lor moulting hens ? 
 
 The moulting hens will be greatly 
 relieved and assisted in feathering if 
 given some kind of tonic, and one of 
 the best is to mix together 20 grains 
 of quinine, 20 grains of chloride of 
 iron, 40 grains of red pepper, one 
 pound of boneset, one ounce of sul- 
 phur, and half a pound of salt. Put 
 a teaspoonf ul of the mixture in some 
 kind of soft food, for every six hens, 
 three times a week. Give meat 
 occasionally, and feed mixed grains. 
 Moulting fowls take cold very easily 
 should the weather change suddenly, 
 and care must be taken to keep them 
 warm and dry. 
 
 Another good tonic is tincture of 
 perchloride of iron, 2 drachms; com- 
 pound tincture of gentian, 2 
 drachms ; lime water, 2 ounces ; eggs 
 beaten, 2 ounces; cod liver oil, 4 
 ounces. Shake thoroughly up into 
 an emulsion, and give two table- 
 spoonfuls three times a day. In 
 scrofulous tendency or hereditary 
 weakness the above is an excellent 
 stock medicine, and may be given to 
 young chicks in ten-drop doses mixed 
 with the feed. It is often valuable 
 in diarrhoea, and also during molt. 
 
 Frosted Cemb.—ls there a cure for frosted 
 combs ? 
 
 A cure for frosted or frozen combs 
 and wattles is equal parts of turpen- 
 tine and sweet oil applied twice daily 
 as soon as discovered. Glycerine is 
 also good. Protect the bird from 
 cold draughts or winds. 
 
 Insects in Brooder.— May I askjyou how 
 to remove the insects from my chicks, three 
 days old, now in a brooder, hatched by 
 hens? 
 
 Dust them with fresh insect pow- 
 der every day, and rub the brooder 
 with kerosene oil. Smear a few 
 drops of warm lard on the heads and 
 necks of the chicks twice a week. 
 
 A reply to the above is that there 
 is a probability that your fowls have 
 the large lice on the skin of the head 
 and necks. Anoint with a few drops 
 of sweet oil on heads, necks and 
 vents. 
 
 Xiarge Ziice. — What is wrong with fowls 
 ■when they stand with heads thrown back 
 •a shoulders, and legs weak ? 
 
 Warts,— C&n you tell me what will cure 
 warts on chickens ? We have a pullet that 
 has eight on her face, two of which are on 
 her eye. They are growing rapidly and we 
 fear will close the eye entirely. What causes 
 it? 
 
 It may be the effects of chicken 
 pox, or the work of minute parasite. 
 Such cases happen as the after re- 
 sults of roup, sometimes. Try an 
 ointment, apply daily for a week, of 
 ten parts sweet oil, one part spirits 
 turpentine, one of cedar oil, and half 
 part carbolic acid. 
 
 iSore ffeetd.— What is a good remedy for 
 sore heads in fowls ? 
 
 Epsom salts is the best remedy for 
 sore head. Salts will cure all ordi- 
 nary cases, and will certainly prevent 
 this disagreeable disease spreading 
 in flock. Put it in soft feed or put 
 in drinking water. A tablespoonf ul 
 to a gallon of dough or a gallon of 
 drinking water is the proportion. 
 Continue its use every other day un- 
 til disease is eradicated from the 
 flock. In addition to salts in the 
 water, take equal parts pulverized 
 table salt, bluestone and lard, or 
 axle grease, adding a teaspoonful of 
 carbolic acid to each half pint, well 
 mixed, and grease the head and face 
 of the fowls or chicks that are af- 
 fected. 
 
 Diainfectant.-Giye a recipe for a cheap 
 but effective disinfectant. 
 
 A cheap and good disinfectant to 
 use about poultry houses and yards 
 when contagious fowl diseases are 
 present or feared, is made by dis- 
 solving three pounds of copperas in 
 five gallons of water, and adding one 
 pint of crude carbolic acid. Sprinkle 
 about the house and yard with a 
 common watering pot. 
 
 Bromide of Potash.— Ro^ should bro- 
 mide oit potash be administered to fowls ? 
 
 Bromide of potash is recommended 
 for roup and brain disorders. Give 
 5 to 7 grains a day to each sick fowl, 
 also gargle the throats with kerosene 
 oil. inject a few drops into the nos- 
 trils. As a preventive of roup, give 
 
18 
 
 Five Hundred Questions and Ajtswxrs 
 
 two grains to each fowl in their 
 drinking water. 
 
 Scouring,— Have a game pullet that has 
 not laid for a month. Her droppings are 
 rery soft, like white of an egg, and stay 
 around the vent. Her comb is beginning to 
 ihrink, she will drink a little, but not eat 
 much. Could find no lice. 
 
 The pullet is probably scouring, 
 caused perhaps, by too much soft 
 feed certainly by improper diet. 
 (See Diarrhoea.) 
 
 Soil on Foot.. — Please inform me how to 
 cure a boil on top of the foot of a hen. It ex- 
 tends under her foot also. She can scarcely 
 walk. 
 
 It may be bumble foot, due to high 
 roost. If soft, lance it and wash 
 once a day with a solution of twenty 
 drops carbolic acid in a gill of warm 
 water. Keep it bound up with a 
 soft rag saturated with warm mutr 
 ton suet. 
 
 Condition Pomders. — Will you give a for- 
 mula for a good s ondition powder ? 
 
 Carbonate of iron 1 oz ; anise seed, 
 8 oz ; powdered ginger, 6 oz ; mustard, 
 1 oz ; table salt. 2 oz ; sulphur, 2 oz ; 
 licorice, 4 oz ; powdered charcoal, 14 
 oz. These, powdered and mixed 
 thoroughly make two pounds of good 
 condition powders, and if kept in a 
 tight box will be serviceable for a 
 long time. A teaspoonful in ten 
 quarts of soft feed, or in that pro- 
 portion, fed every day in warm 
 weather, or every other day in 
 stormy and cold weather, will prove 
 of great service. For growing chicks, 
 one-half the amount of powders in 
 the same quantity of feed is suffi 
 cient. A teaspoonful of the tincture 
 of iron to each gallon of drinking 
 water should be provided in all bad 
 seasons. 
 
 Funiif/ation.— state the best plan of fumi- 
 gation. 
 
 Take a, small furnace, or stove pot, 
 or an iron kettle, into which place a 
 pound or two of crude roll sulphur, 
 broken up. Close the doors and 
 windows (during the absence of the 
 fowls in the forenoon), and set the 
 contents of the vessel on fire in the 
 centre of the floor. Shut the house 
 up tight and leave it to smoke a 
 couple of hours. This will finish the 
 vermin completely, for the tiiue 
 being. Then open all the windows 
 
 and doors for subsequent thorough 
 ventilation, and your fowls wili 
 realize the benefit of this cleausing^ 
 for weeks afterward. 
 
 Enteritis. — Having some fowls affected 
 with inflammation of the bowels,or enteritis 
 wouldjlike to know its cause. 
 
 Enteritis, or inflammation of the 
 bowels, is a common disorder among 
 poultry. It has so many symptoms 
 in common with chicken cholera, is 
 so rapid in its course, that many- 
 pronounce it real cholera. Acute, 
 chronic, dysenteric and membrane- 
 ous enteritis are the most commoa 
 forms. Acute enteritis is a disease 
 that often attacks fowls occupying 
 confined runs and uncleanly kept 
 houses, or those fed on damaged 
 grains, decomposed meat, or sour 
 meal and irritating seeds or plants. 
 It is occasionally canned by surfeit- 
 ing the fowls with improper food, 
 indigestion, the rupture of an ovum 
 and its escape into the abdominal 
 cavity, sharp splinters of bone pier- 
 cing some of the intestines, etc. Th« 
 first period of the disease often passes 
 unnoticed, especially where the 
 poultry does not receive the closest 
 attention. However, the first day 
 the bird is dejected, loses its natur- 
 ally healthy and cheerful appear- 
 ance, and is without appetite. The 
 second day the crop is found empty, 
 the l)eak slightly opened, the mucus 
 membrane of the mouth dry, the 
 pulse quick and irregular, and th« 
 skin hot. From this time the symp- 
 toms become intensified as the dis- 
 ease progresses. A diarrhoea is no- 
 ticed from the first — the matter 
 passed at first being nearly solid, 
 then becoming semi-liquid and fin- 
 ally very thin; serous, of a whitish, 
 greyish, yellowish color, and a dis- 
 agreeable odor. The course of the 
 disease does not extend over three or 
 four days, and unless its severity is 
 mitigated, either by natural causes 
 or proper treatment, the bird at this 
 time indicates extreme suffering by 
 agitating its wings, stretchiug its 
 neck and frequently opening its 
 mouth — death soon following. 
 
 JR{/if JJoMwd.— What are the symptoms and 
 treatment of this difficulty? 
 
 The hen eonies off the nest with- 
 out layiuf^ and walks about dis- 
 tressed, hanging down her wings. 
 Sometimes she remains on the nest. 
 Give teaspoonful of castor oil, if 
 this is unsueeessful, wash the vent 
 
Fits Hukdrbd Questions and Answers 
 
 19 
 
 well with warm water and then pass 
 in an oiled feather, or better, inject 
 an ounce of sweet oil. The egg is too 
 larp:e. Eggs have been known to ac 
 cumulate and form a large tumor. 
 It affects mostly hens that are highly 
 fed. 
 
 Canher.—Mj hens have some kind of a 
 disease. They choke, their mouths are filled 
 ■with hard matter, and if you take it off it 
 Tvlll bleed. Their eyes emit matter. 
 
 They have canker. With a soft 
 rag, on a stick, swab the mouths 
 with a solution made by dissolving 
 a piece of blue vitriol, as large as a 
 chestnut, in a gill of water. Inject 
 a few drops of kerosene in each nos- 
 tril. (See Canker.) 
 
 Wafer Crop. — How is water crop described 
 and how treated ? 
 
 The symptom of a bird with water 
 crop is a poor appetite, but it craves 
 and drinks water until its crop is 
 distended and becomes sour. To 
 treat, take a bowl of water, in which 
 dissolve a quarter of a teaspoonful 
 of baking soda,, and take the fowFs 
 head in the left hand and with the 
 body under the arm, holding head 
 downward, with the neck distended, 
 hold the beak open with the right 
 hand and manipulate the contents of 
 the crop down and out of the mouth. 
 Then give a good dose of soda water; 
 a spoonful is sufficient. Manipulate 
 ag before, rinsing out the crop well 
 and being careful not to irritate the 
 erop so as to cau?e inflammation 
 Coop the chick by itself, feed spar 
 ingly a few day days with bread and 
 scraps from the table, with a sprink- 
 ling of charcoal. This will generally 
 cure it. 
 
 Steelled Heads and Sore .Ej/c*. — Have a 
 fowl that has swelled head and sore eyes, 
 teut does not appear to have roup. What 
 about her? 
 
 It is due to a draught of air on her 
 at night. The eye next the draught 
 becomes affected first. Often the 
 head is swollen and great lumps ap- 
 pear, in which stage the disease has 
 become roup. Mix one part of 
 spirits of turpentine and four parts 
 sweet oil. Anoint head, face and 
 eomb once a day. 
 
 liver Disease. — Three of ia»y hens died. 
 ©Be seemed perfectly healthy, was laying 
 »«arly every day, haA a red •omb, and I 
 
 could see nothing the matter with it. The 
 liver of another was five times as large as it 
 should be, and the other had been ailing 
 quite a while, but would always eat. The 
 liver of|this one had hard white spots as 
 large as a quarter dollar on it. Is it cholera 
 or liver complaint ? 
 
 Should say the last was liver dis- 
 ease, second enlargement of the 
 liver, (or fatty degeneration of liver), 
 and the first apoplexy. Fowls not 
 infrequently drop dead of this trou- 
 ble. It is caused by condition pow- 
 ders, copperas solution, Douglass 
 mixture, and overfeeding on stimu- 
 lating food. Gfive your fowls no 
 drugs. They cause disease. 
 
 ILacIi of Grit.— I had several pullets sick 
 and one died. Their crops were full of feed, 
 and quite hard. I feed soft feed in the morn- 
 ing, and grain at noon and night. What is 
 in their crops had been there several days. 
 What was 'it? 
 
 This is probably want of grit and 
 overfeeding. The want of grit in 
 the crop and gizzard is to a fowl 
 what lack of teeth would be to us. 
 A toothless person could be fed on 
 soups, etc., and life sustained ; but 
 'twould be a profitless existence. 
 What would biddy do when she has 
 nothing with which to grind up the 
 feed in the gizzard ? She simply 
 starves to death. Lack of grit and 
 drugs are most fruitful causes of fowl 
 ills that we have to treat. 
 
 GENERAL SUGGESTIONS. 
 
 When your hens get sore feet, or 
 have bumble foot, it means that 
 your roosts are too high. 
 
 Always have your nests removable, 
 and kerosene the roosts, (under and 
 upper sides) once a week. 
 
 Feed no sulphur as It will cause 
 rheumatism, or leg weakness. JSTevei 
 give it in damp weather. 
 
 (iriving water to chicks so as to 
 allow them to get their bodies wet is 
 certain death, as dampness is fatal 
 to them. 
 
 A mixture of two parts lard and 
 one of sulphur and kerosene oil will 
 remove the rough, scabby formation 
 on the legs of fowls. 
 
 Do not waste time trying to cure 
 egg bound hens, or persistent cases 
 of roup. The labor will be worth 
 more than the hens. 
 
20 
 
 Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 Don't be too anxious for ventila- 
 tion in winter. You will have more 
 difficulty keeping the cold air out 
 than to let it in. Fowls dislike 
 winds and draughts. 
 
 Disinfect the entire premises, when 
 disease appears, with Douglass' Mix- 
 ture, which is made of two gallons 
 water, one pound copperas, and one 
 gill sulphuric acid. 
 
 For warts, sorehead and skin dis- 
 eases, rub once a day with a few 
 drops of the following: Lard, two 
 tablespoonfuls; cedar oil, one tea- 
 spoonful; carbolic acid, twenty 
 drops. 
 
 When you find a dead hen under 
 the roost the cause is apoplexy, from 
 
 overfeeding. When your hens 
 gradually droop and die remove the 
 cock, as he is the cause, especially if 
 he is heavy. If a hen has the blind 
 staggers she is too fat. 
 
 If your hens "pip, "|or have swelled 
 heads or eyes, therein a crack or hole 
 in the wall. Usually the draughts 
 from some ventilator are the cause, 
 and the surest remedy is to keep the 
 house closed at night, but it must be 
 kept clean. 
 
 When your birds have swelled 
 heads or eyes, or a hoarse breathing, 
 ten chances to one you have a crack 
 or crevice in your p'oultry house, or 
 draughts come in from the top ven- 
 tilator. The top ventilator has 
 killed thousands of valuable fowls. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 iLl30Ut E^^S. 
 
 Soft-Shelled :Eggs.—My hens have plenty 
 ■«f lime In the shape of plastering and oyster 
 shells, but they lay soft-shelled eggs. Why ? 
 
 Soft shelled eggs are due to some 
 cause not known. There is no rem- 
 edy for it. Fowls which occasional- 
 ly have this fault will come around 
 all right in time. Do not doctor 
 them for it. 
 
 JDarU and White in Color. — Which breeds 
 «f fowls lay dark colored eggs ? Which lay 
 -white 7 
 
 Either of the following breeds will 
 be found to lay dark, viz : Cochins, 
 Brahmas, Wyandottes, Plymouth 
 Rocks or Langshans. Where eggs 
 with white shells are wished, they 
 will be produced by Leghorns, 
 Minorcas, Andalusians, Polish, Ham- 
 burgs, Games, Houdans or Dorkings. 
 Where both are required, Plymouth 
 Rocks or Wyandottes, with the Leg- 
 horn or Minorcas, will be found to 
 fill the demand most satisfactorily. 
 
 How Prolific. — Please let me know how 
 many eggs Leghorns, Black Spanish, Minor 
 «as, Hamburgs, Light Brahmas, Plymouth 
 Rocks and Wyandottes lay in a year on an 
 average ? 
 
 The Leghorns, Black Spanish, 
 Minorcas and Hamburgs are usually 
 credited with about 200 apiece a 
 year; Light Brahmas about 100 to 
 125: The Plymouth Rocks and 
 Wyandottes about 150. About 100 
 eggs a year for each hen in a flock, 
 is considered an average. 
 
 JBroion 'Egg8. — Do all pure Light Brahmas 
 lay a dark brown egg? Out of my flock of 
 fifteen a few lay dark brown eggs, the others 
 very light brown. What other breeds are 
 there that lay dark brown eggs ? Do any of 
 ihe Plymouth Rocks lay them ? 
 
 Brahmas and Cochins lav brown 
 or dark eggs. The Plymouth Rocks, 
 Langshans and Wyandottes lay eggs 
 that are somewhat dark, though 
 many of them produce light ones. 
 It is seldom that the eggs of a flock 
 are uniform of the breeds mentioned. 
 
 Oreater Production. — Can egg production, 
 be increased ? 
 
 Yes, by feeding clover and meat 
 instead of grain exclusively, and 
 keeping the hens in exercise, so as to 
 avoid having them too fat. 
 
 How Much Cold.— Kow many degrees of 
 cold will eggs (that are being saved for 
 hatching) stand, and not spoil them for 
 hatching purposes ? 
 
 They should not be exposed to 
 lower than 40 degrees above zero. 
 An egg freezes at about 10 degree« 
 above zero, which kills the germ. 
 
 Small in 8ise,— Wh&t will cure a hen of 
 laying eggs far too small for her size ? 
 
 The trouble with such hens is that 
 they are too old to be of any further 
 use. Such eggs are sterile. When 
 hens are young and do thus, the 
 cause is generally high feeding, and 
 a course of light diet will help tho 
 matter. 
 
 Testing for Incubator. — When should in- 
 cubating eggs be tested and how ? 
 
 Eggs . ought to be tested when 
 seven days old. This is done by 
 holding them before a candle or 
 strong light, and looking through 
 them, the hand shading the light 
 from the eyes If clear, the egg is 
 infertile, but is quite good for cook- 
 ing. If it is dark in the centre, shad- 
 ing off to lighter at the edges, it is 
 fertile. Two days before hatching 
 they can again be tested, put in 
 water heated to 105 degrees, or as 
 hot as the hand can bear it. The 
 eggs containing live chickens will be 
 seen to jump about, while the dead 
 eggs will either sink or float move- 
 lessly. This water test will soften 
 the shell and assist hatching very 
 materially. 
 
 Washing before Incubation.— Is it not a 
 
 good plan to wash eggs that come from other 
 yards before incubation ? 
 
FlTB HUTSTDRED QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 
 
 Before eggs obtained from strange 
 yards are placed under a hen, or 
 into a hatching machine, they 
 should be carefully "washed with 
 warm water, rinsed, and wiped quite 
 dry. If this is carefully done there 
 is not any possibility of injuring 
 the eggs ; on the contrary, they will 
 be in better condition, as the pores 
 of the shell have been freed from 
 dirt. We believe that disease germs 
 may be conveyed in the dirt attached 
 to the shell of an egg. Do not wash 
 the eggs until they are about to be 
 placed in a machine or under a hen. 
 
 Sow to PacJc in 'Tars, — Will you state a 
 good method of packing- eggs ? 
 
 Slack a peck of clean lime, pour 
 in six pails of water and drop in 
 three quarts of salt. Stir until all 
 is dissolved; then let it settle and it 
 is ready for use. Pack the eggs in 
 jars, pour on the thinner lime water, 
 cover the jar with a cloth, and over 
 this spread a coating of the thicker 
 portion of the lime. The jars must 
 not be filled too full, as the water 
 must never be allowed to get below 
 the tops of the eggs. Each peck of 
 lime will preserve more than a hun- 
 dred dozen of eggs. A six gallon jar 
 will hold twenty dozen if rightly 
 packed. The expense is very little. 
 
 Classification. — How are eggs classified in 
 the market ? 
 
 The Boston Chamber of Com 
 merce has decided to classify eggs as 
 follows: Extras, firsts, seconds, 
 thirds and known marks. Extras 
 shall comprise the very best quali 
 ties fresh-laid, clean egss in season, 
 put up in the Vjest manner, where 
 every condition necessary to place 
 fine eggs in Boston market has been 
 complied with. Firsts shall com- 
 prise fine marks of eggs such as come 
 in carload lots, or smaller lots, and 
 are packed in fine order, fresh in 
 season and reasonably clean, such 
 stock as gives satisfaction to most 
 customers Seconds shall comprise 
 all stock that is merchantable and 
 inferior to firsts. Thirds shall com- 
 prise all poor stock in bad order, 
 rotten, etc.; stock not considered 
 really merchantable. Known marks 
 shall comprise such sorts as are well 
 known to the trade under some par- 
 ticular designation or mark, shall be 
 of such quality as those familiar 
 with the mark generally understand 
 it to be, in the season in wliich it is 
 
 offered. Extras to pass at the mark 
 must not lose to exceed one dozen 
 per 100 dozen, and firsts not mor* 
 than two dozen per 100 or one and a 
 half dozen per barrel, if sold in 
 barrels. 
 
 Mgg Eaters.— My hens eat their eggs. 
 What can I do to prevent it ? 
 
 Make nests in a dark place and 
 have them ten inches off the floor, 
 with tops, so that hens must enter 
 them from the front. As the hens 
 cannot reach the eggs from the floor, 
 and cannot well stand up in th« 
 nests, they will soon be cured of the 
 vice. 
 
 Packing for SJiipment. — What is the best 
 method of packing eggs for shipment ? 
 
 In packing eggs it is now univer- 
 sally the custom to wrap each egg 
 in paper; this is an essential pre- 
 caution. But in regard to the ma- 
 terial used for filling in between the 
 eggs, many sorts are used, but all 
 are not good. Of the sorts in general 
 u.se, the chaff from a hay mow is the 
 least objectionable, as eggs packed 
 in it frequently go long di&tancel 
 and hatch well. But in our estima- 
 tion the very best material for pack- 
 ing, and one v^ell adapted to com0 
 into general use, is oats, the basket 
 to be covered with excelsior held in 
 place by sewing cheese cloth arouud 
 it. Where cheese cloth is used, the 
 most customary way of fastening it 
 is by using a carpet needle and cot- 
 ton twine, sewing it down with a 
 few long stitches, through the inter- 
 stices of the splints, and packing the 
 excelsior between the cloth and bas- 
 ket. 
 
 Drj/ Paching — Is dry packing as safe at 
 moist packing for eggs ? 
 
 Dry packing for eggs is as safe as 
 wet packing and much more con- 
 venient, but eggs must be kept from 
 the air and turned twice per week 
 or they will adhere to the shell. 
 Pack in small boxes with light 
 covers so they may be turned over 
 without handling the eggs. Use dry 
 salt, dust, plaster, fine ashes or meal, 
 and keep in a cool place, 40 to Q9 
 degrees. By this means strictly 
 fresh eggs may be kept from two to 
 six months and frequently one, by 
 holding them three months, will 
 find a rise of five to 12 cents per 
 dozen Infertile eggs keep better 
 than fertile ones. To sell eggs at 
 
Five Hundred QuBSTioifS and Answers 
 
 23 
 
 IS to 16 cents, as many do, is 
 folly, and although preserved eggs 
 do not look as well nor bring quite 
 the price of fresh ones, they may be 
 depended on and the process pays 
 one well for his labor. 
 
 Bloody Spots.— I frequently find a fresh 
 drop of blood in eggs. Please state the 
 ••use. 
 
 It is due to the rupture of a mi- 
 nute blood vessel during the forma- 
 tion of the eggs, especially when 
 hens are very highly fed. It is not 
 a serious matter. 
 
 Fertilization. — How soon are eggs ferti- 
 Utsed after a male is admitted to floclc T 
 
 Usually about five days, but much 
 depends upon circumstances, such 
 as position of the eggs, etc. 
 
 ■ Selecting for Incubation.— la there any 
 rale to guide ia choosing eggs for hatching ? 
 
 In selecting eggs for hatching se- 
 lect those that are of good shape, 
 and uniform in size. If one or two 
 of the lot are small, the chicks will 
 be correspondingly small, and as a 
 general thing, weak. Choose eggs 
 from strong, vigorous fowls, that 
 have been bred with some end in 
 riew. 
 
 Preserving Process. — I would like a good 
 recipe for preserving eggs. 
 
 The following is known as the 
 Havana process : Take 24 gallons of 
 water, 12 lbs. of unslaked lime, and 
 4 lbs. of salt, or in that proportion 
 according to the quantity of eggs to 
 be preserved; stir it w^ell several 
 times a day, and then let it stand 
 till the liquor has settled and is per 
 fectly clear. Draw or carefully dip 
 off the clear liquid, leaving the sedl- 
 m.ent at the bottom. Take for the 
 above amount of liquid 5 ounces 
 each of baking soda, cream of tartar, 
 saltpetre and borax and an ounce of 
 alum. Pulverize and mix these, and 
 dissolve in one gallon of boiling 
 water, and add to the mixture about 
 20 gallons of pure lime water. This 
 will about fill a cider barrel. Put 
 the eggs in ca,refully, so as not to 
 crack any of the shells, letting the 
 water always stand an inch above 
 the eggs, which can be done by 
 placing a barrel head a little smaller 
 »pon them and weighting it. This 
 amount of liquid will preserve 150 
 4oEen eggs. It is not necessary to 
 
 wait to get a full barrel or smaller 
 package of. eggs, but they can be 
 put in at any time that they can be 
 obtained fresh. But the same 
 liquid should be used only once. 
 
 Should Eggs Best.— Does it injure eggs to 
 ship them long aistances, and how long 
 should they rest before being put in incuba- 
 tors ? 
 
 There is a foolish notion prevail- 
 ing among some fowl breeders, that 
 eggs which have been shipped a dis- 
 tance should rest a day or two before 
 being placed in an incubator. As 
 soon as the hens are ready to set, or 
 the incubator ready for work, place 
 the eggs under or in at once ; they 
 will rest as comfortably in either 
 place as elsewhere, in fact, better; 
 for everybody knows that the fresher 
 the eggs the more chicks they will 
 yield, and the healthier the chicks. 
 The germ floats to the top of the- 
 egg and will find its way there in a 
 half minute, at the most, if revolved 
 a hundred time an hours ; and the 
 yolk will find its place just as soon 
 if it has not been broken, in which 
 case it might rest a month or a year 
 and never hatch. We have tried 
 numerous eggs, travelling from 80 to 
 3,500 miles, and always found that 
 the sooner incubation was started 
 the better the result. 
 
 POINTERS ON PRESERVING EGGS. 
 
 1. Only strictly fresh eggs can be 
 preserved, and in packing them the 
 eggs should not touch each other, 
 as one bad eg^ will spoil the whole. 
 
 2. Eggs collected from neighbors, 
 or at stores, will not answer, as even 
 the most obliging neighbor may un- 
 intentionally impose a stale egg on 
 you. 
 
 3. Eggs from hens not in company 
 with cocks will keep three times as 
 long as will those from hens mated 
 with cocks. Hence, in summer, after 
 hatching is over, remove the males, 
 as the hens will lay fully as well 
 without them. 
 
 4. Keep the eggs as near sixty de- 
 grees as possible, but seventy is not 
 too high. In other words, keep 
 them in a cool place in summer, and 
 do not let them freeze in winter. The 
 cooler you keep them the better. 
 
 5. Eggs will keep in a cool place, 
 if simply turned often, without any 
 packing at all, especially if they are 
 from hens not in company with 
 cocks. 
 
Poi;ilt]?y Si:iil<ii]:i^s. 
 
 A BUILDING COSTING ABOUT $80. 
 
 [From our * Low Cost Poultry Houses."] 
 
 The building shown at Fig. 1 of 
 the engraving on next page is 40 ft. 
 front by 12 ft. in width, and same 
 plans can ^be adapted to a lean-to 
 Btrncture if preferred. The ar- 
 rangement of interior is simple. An 
 alley 2 ft. 6 in. wide extends full 
 length of building (see Fig. 4) with 
 a cross alley 4 ft. wide from wtich 
 entrance is had to the pens. Each 
 pen is about 9 ft. square. The nests 
 are so arranged as to be accessible 
 for gathering the eggs from the long 
 alley. At Fig. 2 a section of nest 
 boxes and roosting perches is shown. 
 The nests are one foot square with 
 an opening to each box in alley- way. 
 The location of the roosting perches 
 and drop boards may be seen at Fig. 
 §. The perches are on a hinged 
 frame so that they may be turned up 
 out of the way when drop board is 
 eleaned. 
 
 The house is sided with boards. 
 The windows are 8x5 ft. 2 in. Par- 
 titions are boarded up 2 ft. from 
 ground and above the boards there 
 is 4 ft. wire netting. The inside 
 doors are simply .frames covered with 
 wire. The following shows 
 
 COST OF MATERIAL. 
 
 1,300 sq. ft. matched boards, 
 
 spruce |26 00 
 
 850 ft. 2x4 joist 4 00 
 
 300 ft 2x3 scantling 3 50 
 
 4 windows 20 00 
 
 250 sq. ft. wire netting 3 75 
 
 300 sq ft. tar roofing 6 00 
 
 Nails and hard ware 1 00 
 
 Labor of carpenter 18 00 
 
 Total cost $82 25 
 
 Each additional running foot front 
 will cost approximately about $3.25. 
 
 Chaff, straw, Ete.—l wish to put som& 
 thing on the floor of my hen house to throw- 
 feed on|in order to make the hens scratck 
 for it. If chaff cannot be had will not shav- 
 ings answer.'haying them three inches thick 
 on the floor ? 
 
 Yes," if broken fine; or you may 
 use cut straw, which comes in bales. 
 
 Partitions.— 'Before I build my poultry 
 house and yards, I would like to know, U I 
 would have much trouble with my fowl* 
 fighting, if I should make the lower part ot 
 the.partitions of wire netting ? 
 
 Have the bottom of boards, two 
 feet high, as they will peck eaoh. 
 other through the wire. 
 
 Ventilation.— yVh.&\j is the best mode <» 
 ventilation ? 
 
 The proper way to ventilate is to 
 run a shaft 4x6 inches inside, from 
 within 4 inches of the floor up 
 through the roof and to a h«ight of 
 2 feet above the highest point of the 
 roof, putting on a cap to exclude 
 rain, and snow, and leave side open- 
 ings for a draught. 
 
 A Stone Walled Hom»p.— What would yoa 
 think ot building the walls of a poultry bonae 
 of stone and mortar? I intend to build a 
 house 15x100 feet, and as I am a stone mason 
 by trade I can build it of stone for about haif 
 what the lumber would cost me. 
 
 Stone walls laid up in mortar and 
 cement would make an excellent 
 house, only that care should be 
 taken to build it in midsummer, so 
 that it would, get thoroughly dry 
 before frost comes. It would he 
 greatly improved by fastening strips 
 of furring to the inside, about three 
 feet apart and then ceiling up. This 
 would give an inch dead-air space 
 to keep out dampness and frost, and 
 make it'much warmer than other- 
 
Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
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 FIG. 4 
 
 A Poultry House Costing About $80. 
 
FiTK Hundred Questions aisd Answers 
 
 Boom in Winter. — How mueh floor space 
 should 20 fowls have for a winter house? 
 
 A house 10x10 feet should accomo- 
 date 30 to 40 hens in the winter 
 season witnout crowding, as they 
 can, at this season, be together with 
 less inconvenience, but the fact is 
 the more room the better. It is not 
 how much room on the roost is re- 
 quired, hut how much room on the 
 floor should be given, as that is 
 where the hens are to work and 
 scratch. If the hens have access to 
 a covered shed in which to exercise 
 during the day it will not matter, 
 on cold nights, if 30 hens be allowed 
 to roost in a house 10x10 feet, for 
 they will get more fresh air than can 
 be kept out, in the winter season. 
 The rule of ten is a good one for 
 calculating the space required, which 
 is, in summer, to allow 10 hens in a 
 house 6x10 feet, and allow them a 
 yard 10x20 to 40 feet. In winter one- 
 half that space will answer. The 
 higger the run the better. 
 
 Earth Floors. — What do you thlnt about 
 earth floors in poultry house ? 
 
 Many prefer them. Use the most 
 mellow soil you can procure. Loam is 
 better than sand; the drier it is 
 the better. If the air in your hennery 
 is full of dust arising from the hens 
 scratching and wallowing, then you 
 may know that the premises are 
 thoroughly disinfected. Especially is 
 it beneficial to have an ample quantity 
 of dry earth under the perches. The 
 dust from fine, dry loam which 
 settles upon the nest boxes, perches 
 and every part of the woodwork 
 tends to keep off vermin, so that in 
 some cases no white-washing is 
 necessary. Be sure by all means that 
 the bed of earth which forms the 
 floor is higher than the ground 
 surrounding the buildiner, so that 
 the surface water, when there are 
 thaws and rains will not run into 
 the building. As an additonal pre- 
 caution, surround the building with 
 a shallow ditch communicating, if 
 possible, with lower ground in the 
 vicinity. 
 
 Chief Jteyuirements — Being about to 
 erect a poultry house, what are some of the 
 cliief requirements to be observed ? 
 
 For economy's sake, the v^alls 
 should not be carried up too high 
 from the ground. The inside of a 
 fowl house need not be over seven or 
 eight feet high at the eaves, on either 
 side, with a "one-third pitch" 
 
 above this for the roof. If the build- 
 ing has only a "shed" roof, or on* 
 slant of covering, the back wall may 
 be three to five feet high, and th» 
 front seven or eight feet from th» 
 sills. In all cases look well to th« 
 means of having the building 
 thoro ughly ventilated, when desired. 
 An opening in the ridge for thii 
 purpose, or one at both sides of th« 
 house under the eaves is best 
 Have a screen trap door or slide, 
 inside, that may be raised or shut 
 at will, conveniently. Nothing i« 
 more surely conducive to good health 
 in your poultry, continuously, than 
 affording them pure air to breathe. 
 In confined premises where there is 
 no opportunity for the rapidly 
 accumulating foul air within to 
 escape, chickens or adult birds can- 
 not thrive. The breathing over and 
 over of this impure atmosphere gene- 
 rates disease inevitably; and the 
 careless or inexperienced breeder 
 discovers' ' roup, " " sniffles, ' ' swelled 
 head," "pip," and a score of other 
 so-called fowl diseases among his 
 stock, most of which are fairly 
 chargeable for their origin to thi» 
 neglect regarding proper ventilation. 
 Fresh air, clean water, varied feed, 
 and all the range you can give th« 
 birds in good weather, are chief 
 requirements toward their health 
 and thrift. Of these, pure breathing 
 may be counted as among the very- 
 first important requisites. Venti- 
 lation, however, must not permit of 
 draughts, or come down on th« 
 fowls from the top. 
 
 Bouse for Four Breeds. — Will you giv« 
 directions for arranging a house for four dif- 
 ferent breeds ? I do not want the building 
 to be over 12x16 and it is to hold 20 of each 
 breed. 
 
 The proper plan is to allow five 
 square feet for each hen. That is, a 
 house 5x10 feet (50 square feet), 
 should accomodate 10 hens. You 
 cannot arrange it to hold 80 birds, 
 as you desire. 
 
 Mouse and Yard, — How large a poultry 
 house should I have to accommodate twenty- 
 five laying hens ? Would a yard 2 rods wide 
 and 10 rods long do for that many hens? 
 Would it keep them in grass If it was in an 
 orchard ? How high a netting ^ence should 
 I have for pure Leghorns, or for a cross of 
 Leghorns on Plymouth Rocks ? 
 
 That number would do very well 
 in a house 12x15 feet, aud six feet 
 high to eaves, but better in a house 
 
Five Hundred Qxtestiohts aitd Abtswers 
 
 ST 
 
 18x20, divided into two pens 10x13, 
 irith yard divided in halves also. 
 The size yard mentioned would be a 
 liberal yard, and should keep in 
 grass all the ^rowinp: season. All 
 the better if it is an orchard. A 
 fence should be six feet for either 
 kind; although with a liberal yard 
 they are less likely to fly than if 
 shut in a small yard. 
 
 Cement Floors. — Is cement floor good for 
 poultry ? If not, why ? 
 
 It is better as a precaution against 
 rats, but is cold, hence not so suit- 
 able as boards, and it is sometimes 
 damp, owing to condensation of 
 moisture. Put earth on it and it 
 will be all right. 
 
 Seating a Poultry Bouse. — What kind 
 •f heating apparatus would be best to heat a 
 poultry house 32 feet long by 20 feet wide.liall 
 in centre, cemented cellar 6 feet deep. 
 
 It is best to use no heating arrange- 
 ment, as it may make the hens deli- 
 •ftte and more liable to colds. 
 
 Iieg WeaJeness from Board Floor. — Will 
 keeping old chickens on board floors cause 
 leg weakness If they have proper food ? Can 
 young chicks be rai ed to market age in a 
 room with board floor ? 
 
 Board floors will not cause leg 
 weakness if the chicks are given 
 litter to scratch in, and are given 
 •overing at night over them. 
 
 If for breeding, use one to a flock, 
 of a dozen always. If for eggs only, 
 and all in one flock, keep no male — 
 two roosters in any flock is one to 
 many. 
 
 Ventilating a Cellar. — I have a cellar, 13 
 feet wide and 22 feet long, two windows at 
 west end and one window at east end, with 
 double doors. I want to keep SO Leghorns in 
 it this winter. How am I to ventilate it? 
 
 Do not ventilate at all in winter 
 except to leave the doors open during 
 the day. At night the house should 
 be closed; no openings at all. It will 
 be harder to keep out the cold air 
 than you may think. 
 
 Various Questions. — How large a house for 
 100 hens ? 2. Should laying room be parti- 
 tioned off from roosting room ? 3. 150 chick- 
 ens in a house 10 feet square — are they 
 too crowded ? 4. How many roosters to 100 
 hens ? 
 
 For permanent quarters, full grown 
 fowls require at least five square 
 feet of ground room per head. Thus 
 100 hens would need a house 10x50 
 feet — height is not so important. 
 8. Not necessarily. 3. Yes, or very 
 Boon will be, if they grow any. 4. 
 
 South or Southeast. — In which directiois 
 should a poultry house face, to get the early 
 sun's warmth ? Some say south and some 
 say southeast ? 
 
 The southeast direction is proper 
 if the warmth is desired very early, . 
 but there will be less warmth from 
 the sun in the afternoon. We would 
 advise the southeast direction for the 
 reason that the morning is the time 
 the warmth is most needed. 
 
 The Bfst Poultry Bouse. — Which is the 
 best plan for a poultry house ? 
 
 A poultry house is like a dwelling 
 house no two persons will agree. 
 Much depends on climate, lay of the 
 land, soil, etc. The most potent 
 factor is the "pocket-book," as no 
 matter what the plan may be, it 
 must correspond with the contemp- 
 lated cost. Hence, we can only reply 
 that there is no best poultry house. 
 Our book on "Low-cost Poultry 
 Houses" (price 25 cents) has numer- 
 ous plans with specifications and 
 cost. 
 
 Winter Ventilation. — Is it necessary to 
 ventilate in winter ? 
 
 Ventilators to poultry houses have 
 done more damage to poultry in 
 winter than anything else. If the 
 air of the poultry houses in winter 
 is foul, some excuse may be made for 
 the ventilator, but the severe cold 
 seals up all sources of odor, and in a 
 short time turns all liquids to solids. 
 The poultry house can be amply 
 purified and ventilated by leaving 
 the doors and windows open during 
 the day and using dry dirt on the 
 roost board and floor as an absorbent, 
 but the ventilator at the top of the 
 poultry house should never be left 
 open after cold weather sets in. 
 Let your object in winter be to secure 
 warmth first. Ventilation will take 
 care of itself, and you will have more 
 difficulty in keeping the cold air out 
 than to let it in. 
 
 To Fumigate Poultry Bouses . — Can you 
 
 give some practical method of fumigating 
 poultry buildings ? 
 
 A writer in th« Poultry World 
 gives his method as follows : Turn 
 
2S 
 
 FivB HujfDRED Questions ais^d Answers 
 
 out the fowls some cool or damp 
 day, and close all the cracks in the 
 house except the door. Then take a 
 kettle of live coals and place on the 
 ground in the centre, but if there is 
 a wood floor lay a flat stone in on 
 which to set the kettle. Throw a 
 half-pound or pound of sulphur upon 
 the coals and shut the door, and 
 the house closed for a few hours, 
 and we will venture to say no more 
 lice or mites will be found in it for 
 a few weeks thereafter. If the house 
 is not tight enough to admit of a 
 thorough fumigation in the manner 
 described, then clean as well as you 
 can, and then mix white-wash with 
 fresh lime, mixing a liberal quantity 
 of sulphur, after which throw 
 sulphur into all the cracks, and apply 
 kerosene oil to all the roosts. The 
 house should be well aired before 
 the fowls are admitted, and well 
 ventilated at night. We have never 
 known the "sulphur cure" to fail 
 if properly applied. 
 
 ADDiriONAL QUESTIONS. 
 
 Is it positively necessary to have 
 sunlight m poultry houses? (We 
 should say yes. ) — Should buildings 
 always be ventilated? (Yes.) — Do 
 yoa favor building near pig pens? 
 ( We do not. ) — Should buildings be 
 on a foundation above ground? 
 (Yes, otherwise the surface water 
 
 in heavy showers may make the 
 floors wet and damp. ) — Should 
 perches be moveable? (By all 
 means. ) — What style of roof is most 
 economical? (One with only one 
 side which extends to the ground. ) — 
 Is wire preferable to lath for parti- 
 tions? (We think so. ) — Is a hall or 
 passage way necessary? (It is 
 decidedly preferable. ) — Is a two-story 
 building advantageous? (Yes; the 
 roof costs no more and the upper 
 story can be used for various 
 purposes. — ( What ought a good house 
 for 60 or 80 fowls cost? (A good 
 house with four pens can be built 
 for $100 and perhaps less. ) — How 
 much room should a dozen fowls 
 have? (About 12 feet square.) — 
 What is a good cheap style of roof? 
 (Roof boards of hemlock or spruce 
 covered with tarred paper and then 
 shingled. ) — Where should the roosts 
 be located? (Out of the line of 
 draughts. ) — What size should the 
 roosting pole be? (A pole about the 
 size of a person's wrist makes the 
 best roosting pole and is better than 
 2x4 scantling. ) — Are high roosts 
 advisable? (Decidedly not.) — What 
 sJiould be the size of ventilators? 
 (About five inches square inside 
 measure and run below roost plat- 
 forms. ) — Should board floors be laid 
 on or very near the ground? (They 
 should be at least one foot above 
 ground. ) — What makes a good lining 
 for a poultry house? (Tarred 
 paper. ) 
 
 
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CllAPTER V. 
 
 Xxi.ci;il>£i<tox*s £i>]9.d Sx'oilex* Rsiisii^.^ 
 
 \RULES FOR HATCHING WITH INCUBATORS. 
 
 I. Hatching chicks with an in- 
 cubator is a winter pursuit. 
 
 3. The hen seldom sits in winter, 
 hence she and the incubator do not 
 conflict. 
 
 3. Eggs in winter do not hatch as 
 •well as eggs under hens in April. 
 
 4. Hens that lay in winter cannot 
 produce as fertile eggs at that time 
 as in the spring, for the cold season 
 prevents exercise, the hens become 
 fat and the pullets are not as fully 
 matured, while the male, if he has 
 a frosted comb, suffers from cold 
 and becomes unserviceable. 
 
 5. Eegs are sometimes chilled in 
 winter. When you buy them you 
 take many chances. 
 
 6. Do not use extra large eggs, or 
 small eggs. Have all eggs of normal 
 aize, and of perfect shape. 
 
 7. In winter the hen will not 
 hatcb one-half of her eggs nor raise 
 one-third of her chicks. 
 
 8. Do not be afraid to watch your 
 incubator. It pays as well to keep 
 awake all night to watch a hundred 
 chicks hatch out as it does to keep 
 awake to save a |5 calf from loss 
 when it is dropped and the chicks are 
 worth more than the calf. 
 
 9. No incubator has brains. It 
 will regulate but cannot think. 
 
 10. When chicks die in the shell 
 the chances are that too much 
 draught of air comes over them. 
 When a hen is hatching she will 
 fight if even a feather is lifted from 
 her. She will allow not the slightest 
 change of temperature and she will 
 hatch as well in a dry place as in 
 a moist location. 
 
 II. Dry warm nests in winter, 
 and moist nests in summer, is an 
 old proverb, hence the moisture 
 depends on the season. Less is re- 
 quired in the incubator in winter. 
 
 12. Thermometers change Mhey 
 should be tested frequently. 
 
 18. As the chicks progress in the 
 eggs they give off heat, hence be 
 careful of the lamp, hot water, or 
 whatever the source of heat may be. 
 
 14. Too much moisture covers 
 the egg and excludes the air from 
 the chicks within the eggs. 
 
 15. No currents of air can pass 
 through an incubator without a 
 plentiful supply of moisture, but in 
 incubators that have no currents but 
 little moisture is needed. 
 
 16. Do not laDor under the de- 
 lusion that a young chick is always 
 dying in the shell for lack of fresh 
 air, and that it must have as much 
 as a young animal. 
 
 17. Do not take out the chicks 
 until you believe all are hatched. 
 Leave the chicks in the incubator. 
 If you take them out, the heat will 
 suddenly drop, and you will also let 
 in the cold air on the eggs. Never 
 disturb the eggs when chicks are 
 hatching. 
 
 18. Test your incubator with mois- 
 ture, no moisture, plenty of air, and 
 air shut off, as each incubator differs 
 from the other. 
 
 19. Eggs will be aired sufficiently 
 when the eggs are turned. It is of 
 no consequence to cool them, but 
 this depends on circumstances. 
 
 20. If chicks do not hatch out by 
 the twenty-first day your heat is too 
 low. 
 
 21. If the chicks begin to hatch'on 
 the eighteenth day your heat is 
 rather high. 
 
 22. Do not put eggs in at different 
 periods during the hatch, and do not 
 hatch ducklings and chicks together. 
 
 23. The same rules apply to^the 
 eggs of hens, ducks, turkeys and 
 guineas, as regards heat and mois- 
 ture. 
 
S9 
 
 Five Hundred QtJESTioM"s ajtd Ahswkrs 
 
 24. Never sprinkle eggs. It lowers 
 the heat instantly, and sometimes 
 kills the chicks in the shells. 
 
 35. If the incubator shows mois- 
 ture on the glass, do not open the egg 
 drawer until it is dry. Cold air and 
 dampness kill the chick, the heat 
 being lowered by rapid evaporation. 
 
 36. The reason why the hen that 
 steals her nest hatches so well is 
 because you do not give her all sorts 
 of eggs, such as large eggs, small 
 eggs and eggs from old hens and 
 immature pullets, such a you put the 
 in incubator. 
 
 37. Keep away the curious visitor 
 just when your eggs are hatching. 
 
 38. Keep the incubator in a place 
 of moderate temperature. A winaow 
 on one side will make that side 
 cooler than the other. 
 
 39. Let the bulb of the ther- 
 mometer touch a fertile egg. 
 
 30. Begin with a 100-egg incuba- 
 tor, and learn, before you try a 
 larger one. 
 
 31. No matter how much you 
 read, experience will be the best 
 teacher. 
 
 38. Have your incubator warm 
 before you nut in the eggs. 
 
 33. A child cannot manage an 
 incubator, all claims to the contrary. 
 Incubators are not toys. Don't turn 
 over a man's work to a boy. 
 
 34. Don't expect to hatch with- 
 out work. The man who expects to 
 get chicks by trusting to the 
 regulator to keep the heat regular 
 does not deserve success. Work is 
 required for othc stock that need 
 winter care, and the artificial hen 
 is no exception. 
 
 Ren's or Duch'n Fggs. — Are the condi- 
 tions tlie same witli tlie incubators in liatch- 
 ing duck eggs as with hen's eggs? That is, 
 shall I keep the same moisture and heat in 
 the incubator for the duck eggs as for the 
 hen's eggs ? 
 
 The conditions are the same, only 
 the dnck eges want but little mois- 
 ture the first three weeks, really 
 requiring less moisture than hen's 
 eggs. The temperature required is 
 the same. 
 
 The Jtest Jtroilera. 
 
 breeds for broilers ? 
 
 -Which are good 
 
 Plymouth Rock, Brahmas, Cochins, 
 Wyandottes, Langshaus and Leg- 
 horns, White Wonders and Cornish 
 Indians. 
 
 Might Ttmt'perat'iire. — Please inform m« 
 how hot or eold it must be in the incubator 
 to speil the eggs. 
 
 Lower than 40 is injurious, and 
 116 for an hour will spoil them. 
 These are extremes. 
 
 ITo Test far Fertility.— Do you know of 
 any egg tester by which you can tell a fer- 
 tilized egg before putting in the incubator T 
 
 There is no way of knowing if oa 
 is egg fertile before being used for 
 incubation. 
 
 Cellar for an Ineubator.-r-'W ill a damp 
 
 cellar do for au incubator ? 
 
 Yes. In a damp cellar you will not 
 heed any moisture pans in th» 
 machine, as the natural moisture of 
 the cellar air \vill be sufficient. But 
 a dry cellar is the best. 
 
 ChiehB in JBrosder. — How long should 
 chickens be kept in the brooder before they 
 can do without artificial heat ? 
 
 Until about eight or ten weeks 
 old, but it depends on the season and 
 weather. The rule is to keep them, 
 in the brooder until they are well 
 feathered. 
 
 Si»e ofSrooHer Bowse.— What should be 
 the size of a house in which to raise 75 to 19* 
 chicks to three pounds, and will a house 
 built of rough boards, and covered with good 
 roofing, be warm enough ? 
 
 A house 10x12, dividedjinto'two 
 pens 6x10, will do very swell, A 
 brooder^wi'l comfortably accommo- 
 date 50 to 60 chicks till eight, or ten 
 weeks old, at which age they^should 
 be ready for market. 
 
 Chicks Dead in Shell. — I am using an In- 
 cubator and have had very good success uh- 
 til recently. Now I find many full grown 
 chicks dead in the shell. What is the cauaef 
 
 Too much heat probably, ""although 
 it 18 not certain that it is the fault 
 of the incubator; the same thing 
 happens sometimes with hens. No 
 one has yet found out why chick* 
 die in' the Bhell. 
 
 Heat ait 104 Degrees. — Will it do harm to 
 have the heat rise to 106 degrees In an in- 
 cubator after the eggs have been in three 
 days or more 7 
 
 It will cause the chicks to hatch a 
 day or two earlier than they should 
 if the heat is too high, but a tern- 
 
PrT» HtfiTDRjED Questions aitd Answers 
 
 31 
 
 ]?«ratTire of 106 degree* for a short 
 iim» will do but little injury. 
 
 ^ 40O-Egg JXaehlne.—GixK dimensions 
 *er a 4C0-egg hot--w»tftr Incubator. Is it 
 ieeeseary to have the tank proportionately 
 larger than a 100-egg incubator ? 
 
 To estimate ttie capacity, allow 
 iour square inches for each egg. 
 Hence tank for 400-egg incubator 
 should be 1600 square inches or 40x- 
 40 inches. If preferred it may be 
 «bont 35x45 or of any shape de- 
 «ired. 
 
 Measurement of Moisture. — Can I get too 
 atueh moisture in the machine 7 After the 
 •ggs had been in three days I set two baking 
 yans of water under the egg trays and 
 sprinkled the eggs twice a day. 
 
 Ifever sprinkle eggs as the con- 
 stant chilling twice a day to which 
 yon subjected the eggs probably 
 killed the germs; some early, others 
 Italf grown, and others which were 
 kardier and stronger, survived 
 nearly long enough to escape. A 
 lew sponges are sufiELcient for mois- 
 ture. 
 
 Jf««0 Much Moisture. — How often, how 
 Kneh and what time should moisture be put 
 is a two-lamp incubator f Capacity, 200 
 
 The measurement of moisture is 
 impossible. Water evaporates more 
 rapidly when warm than when cold. 
 Everything depends on how much 
 «ir flows in, the temperature, stage 
 et incubation, cubic inches of space 
 in incubator, etc. No one can 
 know how much moisture to give. 
 It can only be determined by ob- 
 servation during the hatch. Some 
 incubators are now run without 
 Mftoisture. 
 
 Brooder Mouse. — How many chicks would 
 a brooder house 50 feet long and 12 feet wide 
 *ecommodate ? Could I heat it with a 
 stove? 
 
 It may hold 500 if divided into 10 
 apartments of 5 feet by 8, leaving a 
 3 foot walk on the north side. That 
 would give you ten brooders which 
 would accommodate 50 chicks each. 
 You would have a stove with a 
 water jacket and outflow and return 
 pipes for the hot water, as an or- 
 dinary stove will not answer. You 
 should have the heat where it keeps 
 the chicks warm and hot water pipes 
 are excellent. 
 
 Temperature for Batching.— Will eggs 
 hatcb with a constant temperature of 100 to 
 102 degrees ? 
 
 It is rather low, as the hatch will 
 be delayed and the chicks weakened 
 somewhat. The nearer the temper- 
 ature is kept to 103 degrees th© 
 better. 
 
 Ruffled Feathers — What is the cause of 
 incubator chicks being ruffled in feathers f 
 Some act as if benumbed, stretch out their 
 necks, and lay down ? 
 
 May be due to several causes — bot- 
 tom heat, lice, dampness or insuffi- 
 cient heat in brooder, as a rule th« 
 lack of warmth being the cause. 
 
 Moisture. — If I keep a pan of water in my 
 incubator and wet sponges under the egg- 
 drawer, (w^hich has a cloth bottom) is there 
 any need of keeping wet sponges in with th» 
 eggs? 
 
 Sponges are sufficient without th» 
 water pans. Eggs really need little 
 or no moisture during incubation, 
 
 Wh^n to Begin. — How early can I start an 
 incubator, and will I have to keep it where 
 it won't freeze, or would it be better to let 
 the hens set and take care of the chicks that 
 early ? 
 
 October is usually the time to 
 begin. It should be in a place of 
 moderate temperature. You cannot 
 use hens that early, as they may 
 not be broody. 
 
 Too High Temperature. — If eggs get too 
 hot in an incubator, should they be sprinkled 
 with warm water to cool them 7 Are eggs 
 roasted if the heat reaches 110 degrees ? 
 
 A temperature of 110 degrees is 
 not necessarily fatal unless continued 
 for too long a time. Oool the eggs 
 by simply leaving the egg drawer 
 open. 
 
 Randling — Does it do harm to handle the 
 eggs, such as testingjthem, or changing them 
 from one machine to another after they have 
 been in the incubator three days 7 
 
 No. Not if they are handled care- 
 fully and not exposed to cold air too 
 long. In testing esrgs in a cool room 
 it is well to warm a couple of blank- 
 ets folded to be a little larger than 
 the egg tray. Cover the untested 
 eggs with one warm blanket and 
 spread the other over another tray 
 and slip the eggs under as fast as 
 tested. In this way chilling the 
 eggs can be avoided. 
 
32 
 
 Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 RILES ON RAISING BROILERS. 
 
 1. If the chicks do not come out 
 of the eggs until the 22d day, or 
 longer, it indicates that the tempora- 
 ture of the egg drawer was too low. 
 They should begin to pip on the 
 twentieth day. 
 
 2. If they begin to come out on 
 the eighteenth day, it indicates that 
 the average temperature was too 
 high. 
 
 3. If the chicks come out weak, 
 it indicates either too high or too 
 low temperature, or that the eggs 
 were from immature pullets or over 
 fat hens. 
 
 4. Give no feed for thirty-six 
 hours after the chicks are hatched. 
 
 5. They should then be fed every 
 two hours until one week old. After 
 that time feed them four times a 
 day until a month old, when three 
 
 times a day will suffice. 
 
 6. Keep a little box of ground 
 charcoal, one of clean ground bone, 
 and one of small sharp flint before 
 them, with plenty of coarse sharp 
 sand on the floor. Also a box of 
 ground oyster shells, as grit, but in 
 recommending these substances, it 
 may be stated, that any kind of sharp 
 small grit will answer. 
 
 7. The first feeding may be of 
 rolled oats (dried slightly on the 
 stove if the weather is damp) rubbed 
 between the hands to crumble it. 
 The rolled (or flake) oats are ready 
 prepared, cooked, and can be had of 
 any grocer, being the prepared 
 oatmeal for instantaneous prepara- 
 tion of oatmeal gruel. Feed them 
 to the chicks dry. Stale bread 
 moistened with milk may also be 
 given. 
 
 8. On the third day after begin- 
 ning to feed, vary the food by giv- 
 ing the rolled oats one meal, and 
 prepared cake the next. The pre- 
 pared cake is made by using equal 
 parts of bran ground corn and oats 
 (corn and oats are usually ground 
 together) and middlings (shipstuff), 
 which should be salted to season it, 
 intimately mixed, and cooked in a 
 pan in the stove oven. Sift the corn 
 and oats first, and feed the coarse 
 parts to fowls. If fresh milk can 
 be had, the food may be mixed with 
 it before cooking. If not, use 
 water. Crumble the cake fine 
 when feeding. It should be fed dry. 
 
 9. Ground meat is sometimes used 
 for chicks, but results show that 
 too much of it causes bowel disease. 
 If a piece of lean butcher's meat be 
 cooked to pieces (or chopped fine 
 after cooking), and fed twice a 
 week, it will be sufficient. A gill 
 of linseed meal to every quart of the 
 dry mixture (for making the pre- 
 pared cake) given once a week, will 
 be beneficial. 
 
 10. After the first week any kind 
 of feed, such as mashed potatoes, 
 cooked turnips, crumbled bread of 
 any kind, or any wholesome feed, 
 will be of advantage. 
 
 11. When ten days old, the rolled 
 oats may be omitted, and wheat one 
 day and cracked corn the next may 
 be used. Begin to teach chicks 
 to eat wheat and cracked corn early 
 by sprinkling a little on the floor 
 (about a tablespoonful daily) after 
 they are a week old. 
 
 12. Young chicks do not eat much 
 at a time, but they eat often. Do 
 not omit a meal. Feed at regular 
 hours. 
 
 13. After the chicks are three 
 weeks old, the cake may be omitted, 
 the feed being scalded instead, but 
 the quantity of bran should be 
 reduced one-£ialf. 
 
 14. Bran is indigestible if fed 
 raw, and sometimes causes bowel 
 disease, but if cooked, or well 
 scalded, so as to soften it, the bran 
 makes good feed as it largely abounds 
 in the phosphates being the best 
 bone forming element that can be 
 given. 
 
 15. A chick must not be even 
 dampened. Water should be given 
 in a manner that only the beak of 
 the chick can become wet. The 
 chicks must not be allowed to tread 
 in the water. Dampness is fatal. 
 
 16. A young chick is naked, like 
 a babe just born, the down being 
 no protection, hence everything 
 depends on plenty of neat. Better 
 have the brooder too hot than too 
 cold. If the chicks are with hens, 
 they must have a warm, light place 
 as a hen cannot raise chicks in win- 
 ter any better than it can be done 
 artificially, as it is not her natural 
 period of the year for so doing. 
 
 17. No thermometer is needed in 
 the brooder, or under the hen. If 
 the chicks crowd together especially 
 at night, they need more warmth. 
 When they shove their heads out of 
 
Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 33 
 
 the • sides of the brooder, or from 
 under the hen, the heat is just right. 
 Whenever the chicks do not sleep 
 near the edges of the brooder, but 
 get as close to each other as possible, 
 give more heat. 
 
 18. When the chicks show signs 
 of leg weakness, have clogging of the 
 vent, and bov/el disease results, there 
 IS a lack of warmth in the brooder, 
 especially at night. The night is 
 when the chicks meet with the 
 greater number of difficulties. 
 
 19. When chickens have leg weak- 
 ness and the floor of the brooder is 
 very warm, the cause is too much 
 bottom heat. Bottom heat is excel- 
 lent for chicks until they are a week 
 old, but after that time there should 
 be only warmth enough on the floor 
 to not have the floor cold. All 
 warmth should come over the chicks. 
 They feel the warmth on the backs 
 with more satisfaction than on any 
 other portion of the b( dy. 
 
 20. When the chicks have good ap- 
 petites but have leg weakness, the 
 chicks moving on their knees but 
 otherwise appear lively, it denotes 
 rapid growth, and is not nec.essarily 
 fatal. Follow directions in No. 17 
 above. 
 
 21. Feed the chicks on clean sur- 
 faces or in little troughs, never leave 
 food to ferment Clean off the brood 
 ers and floors daily. Keep dry earth 
 in the corner of the brooder house for 
 the chicks to dust in. 
 
 22. When you see the chicks busy 
 and scratching, it is a sign of thrift. 
 
 23. A single night may ruin all. 
 Never let the brooder become cold for 
 an hour. Once the chicks get chilled 
 they never fully recover. 
 
 24. When the chicks seem to be 
 continually crying it means more 
 warmth needed. The warmth is 
 more important than the food. 
 
 25. If the chicks are stupid, 
 drowsy, continually cry, or have flts 
 look on the heads and necks, and 
 under the wings for the large lice. 
 Also examine for little red mites. 
 
 26. Never feed raw cornmeal to 
 very young chicks. Crumbled stale 
 bread is always good for them. 
 
 27. Clover hay, cut very fine, and 
 steeped in boiling water over night, 
 and sprinkled with cornmeal slight- 
 ly, fed three times a week, is excel- 
 lent, but unless it is exceedingly fine 
 the chicks cannot eat it. One of 
 the best invigorators, however, is the 
 
 decotion from the clover (clover tea), 
 given in the place of drinking water 
 occasionally, but it must be fresh. 
 
 28. Drinking water in winter 
 should be tepid, not cold, and fresh 
 and clean. 
 
 29. Feed very early in the morn- 
 ing as soon as the chicks come out of 
 the brooder. Never keep them wait- 
 ing for breakfast. 
 
 30. Milk may be given, but should 
 he fresh, and the residuum carefully 
 removed, but do not substitute it for 
 water. Give water to the chicks 
 from the start. Curds may be given 
 two or three times a week. Also fresh 
 buttermilk. Milk, however, is not 
 necessary where it is difficult to pro- 
 cure. 
 
 31. A chick should weigh a pound 
 when five weeks old. The average 
 is a pound at six weeks old. It 
 should be ready for market when 
 eight weeks old. To fatten for market 
 give plenty of wheat and cracked 
 corn. 
 
 32. The White or Brown Leghorn 
 male crossed with Brahma, Cochin,,, 
 Wyandotte, Langshan, Dorking or 
 Plymouth Rock hens, or grades, 
 make excellent broilers. For choice 
 quality broilers use Pit Game male 
 ou Dorking hens. The Houdan 
 crosses on large hens, produce fine 
 broilers. The Wyandotte and Ply- 
 mouth Rock males are excellent. The 
 best results in hatching are when the 
 Leghorn male is used. 
 
 33. Hatching should begin in 
 October and end in April or May. 
 The best prices are obtained in April 
 and May. 
 
 34. It costs five cents in food to 
 raise one pound of chick. The cost 
 of eggs, labor, building, etc , are 
 extra. The heaviest cost is in the 
 eggs (which are high in winter) ae 
 they often fail to hatch. 
 
 35. Hens are better than pullets for 
 producing broilers. The males 
 should not be less than ten months 
 old. 
 
 36. Eggs from molting hens, ins- 
 mature pullets, or from hens in the 
 yards with cocks having frosted 
 combs, chilled eggs, very small eggs, 
 will not give good results. 
 
 37. In a majority of cases the 
 failure is due to the eggs and not to- 
 the incubator. 
 
 38. Read these rules once a day 
 until you can repeat them from 
 memory. Then keep your eyes om 
 the chicks. 
 
34 
 
 Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 POSNTS IN FAVOR OF THE INCUBATOR AND 
 BROODER. 
 
 1. Ten to fifty times more eggs 
 <^an be hatched by one machine, in 
 the same length of time, than by one 
 hen ; and at the same time, require 
 no more attention than the hen. 
 
 2. It is an easier and more agree- 
 able job to turn the eggs and fill the 
 lamp daily, of an incubator, than it 
 is to lift a cross and fussy hen from 
 the nest, feed her and watch thatishe 
 returns to duty at the proper time. 
 
 3. An incubator will not trample 
 on and break the eggs, as is nearly 
 always the case, more or less with a 
 sitting hen. 
 
 4 It is a difficult matter to keep 
 lice and mites from attacking and 
 multiplyingon the sitting hen, which 
 is, to say the least, a source of great 
 annoyance to the hen. There is no 
 chance for such a state of affairs in 
 an incubator. These little pests won't 
 germinate and grow fat on ash or oak 
 boards. 
 
 5. The inclination of an incubator 
 to become broody does not have to 
 be consulted, as is the case with the 
 hen. Give it the eggs, light the 
 lamp, and the machine is yourobedi 
 ent servant for as long a period as its 
 services are required. 
 
 € The machine will not become 
 weak or emaciated from overwork; 
 and chicks can thus be hatched out 
 for months at a stretch. 
 
 7. There is more pleasure and fewer 
 vexatious trials in operatng an in- 
 cubator than tliere is in steering to 
 victory an obstinate and vicious hen 
 
 8. Home made brooders are quite 
 common, and a person with a fair sup- 
 ply of ingenuity can construct one 
 that will answer very well in many 
 respects. It is a dumb but perfect 
 mother, and it is amusing to see how 
 tlie young chicks take to it. Some of 
 the advantages of brooders are : 
 
 1. Snug and secure quarters are 
 ever ready for the young chicks 
 wlien taken from the incubator. 
 
 2. Two hundred chicks can be 
 handled and cared for in one-tenth 
 the time it would require were they 
 with the hens. 
 
 3. The chicks can be fed more 
 regularly and much more evenly, 
 and are less liable to disease and 
 accident; and raids from "vai'mints" 
 and reptiles are impossible. 
 
 4. The chicks can be kept dry 
 and comfortable at all times, and 
 this, too, with one fourth the atten- 
 tion necessary where they are 
 running w^ith hens. 
 
 5. It is almost impossible for lice 
 and mites to attack the chicks, four 
 there is no cause for parasites of 
 this nature to get a start. 
 
 6. Chicks reared in this way be- 
 come very docile, and are conse- 
 quently much easier handled when 
 they mature. 
 
 7. There is five times more 
 pleasure attached to rearing chicks 
 in a brooder than otherwise. 
 
 8. Everyone who raises chicks 
 should have a brooder whether they 
 have an incubator or not. The 
 chicks can be taken from the hens 
 and put in the brooder and the hens 
 reset. A brooder is a household 
 necessity. And they are cheap. 
 
CilAPTER VI. 
 
 IM[iscella.n.eous Xn.qLuix*ies* 
 
 I/imber JVecfc.— What is Limber Neck? 
 How can it be cured ? 
 
 This is an affliction native to the 
 South. The birds which have it act 
 as though they were drunk. They 
 reel, twist their heads about, fall 
 backwards, stagger, fall down and 
 get up, eat and are apparently all 
 right for a little while, when another 
 spasm will seize them. Limber neck 
 is the St. Vitus' dance of chickendom. 
 Having been raised where this ail- 
 ment occasionally appears, the writer 
 of this never heard of but one 
 remedy said to be efficient, and that 
 is a pill of asafetida the size of a 
 pea, giving night and morning, 
 feeding same as usual Sometimes 
 a fowl with limber neck will live a 
 month or more, but it kills them 
 finally if not relieved. No one 
 knows the origin or cause of limber 
 neck. 
 
 Midge on EggShflls. — Will you please tell 
 
 me what causes a ridge around an egg shell? 
 
 No one knows. It just happens 
 
 and the next egg the hen lays will be 
 
 all right 
 
 Good Match.— y\^h.a,% is considered a good 
 hatch from 13 eggs ? 
 
 One more than half — hence seven 
 chicks are considered |a good hatch 
 from 13 eggs. 
 
 White on Slack Mitiorcas.— Do Black 
 Minoreas have any white on them ? 
 
 When very young' some of the 
 down is white. Adult fowls occa- 
 sionally have a little white on their 
 l^lumage, but lose it at molting time. 
 
 Mating Dark and Light. — Which is best 
 to mate, dark roosters and light hens, or 
 light roosters and dark hens, both for looks 
 and profit? They are Plymouth Rock fowls. 
 
 The light males and medium dark 
 hens are usually preferred. 
 
 Matching Banfama.—'When should Ban- 
 tams be hatched ? 
 
 August should be the last month. 
 Hatch Bantams from March till 
 August. A secret in the breeding 
 of this variety of birds is to keep 
 them down in size. If got out early 
 in the season, they grow finely all 
 summer, and may get some ounces 
 heavier at maturity, of either sex, 
 than if bred later in the season. 
 
 Shipping Coojp*.— How many inches wide, 
 long and high should a shipping coop be for 
 one or two fowls ? 
 
 That depends upon the size of the 
 fowls. We advise to give about a 
 square foot of floor sp ice to each, 
 when shipping a number. For 
 instance, a coop 2 feet wide by 3 feet 
 long, contains six square feet, and 
 will do very well for six fowls as 
 Plymouth Rocks or Wyandottes; 
 would carry eight or ten Leghorns 
 or Ham burgs ; or four or five Cochins 
 or Brahmas. For height:— they 
 should be high enough to allow the 
 birds to stand erect without touch- 
 ing the top. Many breeders make a 
 mistake in this and ship birds, espec- 
 ially cockerels, in too low coops. 
 
 Capons. — How should capons be fed In the 
 winter months? Do they need outside yards? 
 How many can be kept in a building 15x30 
 feet ? How much room will I need to winter 
 200? 
 
 Simply keep them growing. Feed 
 on any food they will eat, but do not 
 get themi too fat until near time for 
 selling. A very small yard will 
 answer — just enough to allow of 
 some outdoor air and exercise. 
 About 100 can be kept in that size 
 building, but they may be crowded 
 more if building is kept clean and 
 the weather is cold. It is usual to 
 allow four square feet for each bird, 
 or 800 square feet for 200 birds. 
 
36 
 
 Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 Cross Sreeding. — What breed should be 
 crossed on White Leghorn hens to produce a 
 good laying fowl ? Would Plymouth Rocks 
 do ? What color would the cross be, and 
 would they be non-sitters ? 
 
 Tou would find some difQculty in 
 crossing up a small variety like the 
 White Leghorns from the female 
 side. The color would probably be 
 mixed, and they would be sitters, 
 the crossing of two non-sitting varie- 
 ties will produce sitters, the act of 
 crossing seeming to develop that 
 instinct, presumably latent until 
 stimulated into activity by the cross 
 breeding. Otherwise there is no 
 diflSculty in affecting a cross. The 
 best cross for eggs is a Brown Leg- 
 horn male with Partridge Cochin 
 hen. Crosses do not equal pure 
 breeds. 
 
 Egg Tester. — How can I make a good egg 
 tester ? 
 
 To make an egg tester to use with a 
 common lamp, take a pasteboard 
 box about seven inches long and six 
 inches wide and six inches deep. 
 Cut a hole in the bottom big enough 
 to fit the large part of a lamp 
 chimney through. Next cut a hole 
 about the shape of an egg, but 
 rather smaller, in one end so that it 
 will be opposite to the lamp flame 
 when the tester is slipped over the 
 chimney. Cover the box outside 
 with any dull, black cloth, so that 
 no light can get through,' and you 
 are ready for business. Light the 
 lamp, place the tester in position, 
 and the egg over the oval opening 
 in the side. Turn it gently as you 
 look, and its condition will be clearly 
 exposed to view. 
 
 Iiime, Gravel, Oyster Shells .—Is lime and 
 gravel as good as oyster shells ? 
 
 Grravel, sea shells, or hard dry bone 
 will answer. Shells serve more as 
 grit than any other purpose. 
 
 Bolton Orays —Will you please say if there 
 is such a fowl as Bolton Grays ? 
 
 The old Bolton Grays have now 
 become the Silver Penciled and 
 Silver Spangled Hamburgs. 
 
 White Minor cas.—VfiW you please give 
 the origin of the Wliite Minorcas ? 
 
 They are of Spanish origin, coming 
 first from the island of Minorca, 
 from which they derived the name. 
 
 Value of Alfalfa. — How does alfalfa 
 compare with clover as an egg producing 
 food ? 
 
 It is fully equal to clover in every 
 respect. 
 
 Fattening Cocher els— How do you fatten 
 cockerels from late hatch, Plymouth Rocks? 
 Feed on plenty of corn with soft 
 feed three times a day. 
 
 A Good Cross. — What do you think -of 
 crossing Plymouth Rocks with Games, and 
 are they as good as the pure bred Plymouth 
 Rocks ? 
 
 The cross of Indian game and Ply- 
 mouth Rock will produce a grand 
 table fowl, and cannot be surpassed. 
 
 Highest Egg Record. — Please give me the 
 highest egg record for a hen in one year? 
 
 In England 280 is claimed, but we 
 have no records, and cannot state. 
 Be satisfied with 150 or even 100. 
 
 Pulling the Primaries, — If I pull the pri- 
 mary feathers out of fowls' wings, will they 
 grow in again all right ? 
 
 If pulled they begin to grow at 
 once. If cut they do not renew 
 until the bird molts. 
 
 Chicks from Stnall Eggs.— Will birds 
 hatched from the small eggs be as large as 
 those from large ones produced by another 
 hen? 
 
 Yes, as small eggs do not mean 
 that a hen will not lay them larger, 
 but it is safer to breed from hens 
 that lay large eggs uniformly. 
 
 Sone. — I am a beginner and want to ask if 
 burnt bone is as good as raw bone. 
 
 Burning the bone causes a loss of 
 the nitrogen, (cartilage, meat, etc.) 
 but the lime and phosphates remain. 
 The raw bone is better. 
 
 The Standard.— Wh&t is the book ealled 
 " The standard ? " 
 
 It is a volume prepared by a 
 society of poultrymen known as 
 "The American Poultry Associa- 
 tion " Its title is ^'T7ie American 
 Standard of Perfection." It is not 
 a treatise on poultry culture, but 
 merely describes, point by point, 
 each recognized variety of fowls. It's 
 cost is $1.00. 
 
Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 37 
 
 Ahout the Polish.— Does a pure White 
 Crested Black Polish get white feathers 
 through the body when it is two or three 
 years old? 
 
 The color should be black with no 
 white through the body; but it 
 often happens that aged birds show 
 white feathers, as the tendency is to 
 grow lighter with age. 
 
 Xeghorn Combs, — How many points must 
 any variety of Leghorn hens have on their 
 combs, provided there are no side sprigs, 
 or is it immaterial ? 
 
 Five or six — five preferred, for all 
 varieties of Leghorns. We presume 
 the same for the Browns, but the 
 standard does not specify number. 
 
 Eating Ptimphin Seeds. — How do you ac- 
 count for fowls eating pumpkin seeds, 
 getting giddy or drunk, and ultimately 
 dying in that condition ? 
 
 That they are injurious has been 
 demonstrated, but the cause is un- 
 known, due probably to some active 
 principle in the seeds. 
 
 Sest Chick Feed.— Let me know what to 
 feed to young chicks of the breeds that 
 feather fast, to prevent drooping of wings 
 and in many instances dying? 
 
 Begin with pin head oat meal for 
 very young chicks. When they 
 begin to feather keep them warm, 
 feed lour times a day, and give oat 
 meal, wheat and corn meal, often. 
 
 Jiuy or Jtaise. — Isn't it cheaper and better 
 for one lacking somewhat in room, to buy 
 pullets at ten cents a pound for laying stock 
 than to raise them ? 
 
 Raise them always. By raising 
 them you can select the breed pre- 
 ferred, which is very important. 
 
 Excellent Cross— Please tell me what you 
 think of a cross between White Leghorn and 
 Light Brahma? What would be the ad- 
 vantage of such a cross, and should I use a 
 Leghorn cockerel on Brahma hens, or vice 
 versa ? 
 
 The cross produces a bird larger 
 than the Leghorn, and more active 
 than the Brahma, the Leghorn pre- 
 dominating. Use the Leghorn male. 
 The cross is an excellent one. But 
 why use a cross ? 
 
 Egg Shells f»r Eowls. — Are egg shells 
 good for fowls in winter ? 
 
 Yes, egg shells are excellent for 
 fowls at any time, but should be 
 smashed fine so as to be readily 
 eaten. Otherwise they may cause 
 the fowls to eat their eggs. 
 
 Ifumber of Males, Feed, Etc. — Will one 
 male do with 25 pullets ? Is good wheat at 
 $1.00, cheap feed ? How much wheat will 25 
 hens need at a meal ? 
 
 Two males should be used if on a 
 range. One quart of wheat, with 
 bone and clover is sufficient. See 
 articles on "Feeding," elsewhere in 
 this book. 
 
 Laying ajter Molting — What time do 
 hens generally begin laying after molting ? 
 
 That depends upon how they have 
 been fed previously. If fed for eggs, 
 they will take but a short recess for 
 molting, sometimes none at all. If 
 the system is exhausted, the molt 
 (producing a new suit of clothes) is a 
 heavy drain upon a hen, and she 
 may not get built up to laying vigor 
 again before spring. 
 
 Three Classes— According to utility, how 
 should the various breeds be classified ? 
 
 The utility of the breeds can be di- 
 vided into three classes, as follows: 
 For e^g; farming — Leghorns, Minor- 
 cas, Hamburgs, Andalusians, An- 
 conas, Spanish and Houdans. Se- 
 cond. For table birds (roasters) — 
 Dorkings and Games. For market, 
 Brahmas, Cochins, Plymouth Rocks, 
 Wyandottes, Langshans and White 
 Wonders. 
 
 A. Durable WhiteivasJi. — Will you give a 
 recipe for a durable whitewash ? 
 
 One half bushel of good lime, five 
 pounds rock salt, dissolve; one-half 
 pound of whiting, four pounds 
 ground rice boiled to a thin paste; 
 one-half pound clean grease. Slake 
 the lime in a tight box or barrel with 
 hot water, keeping the box covered 
 that the steam may not escape. 
 Slake to the consistency of thick 
 cream. Thin it when used, so that 
 it will flow freely from the brush. 
 If put on too thick it will flake off 
 more or less when dry. The above 
 is for outside work. For indoors 
 slake the lime as above with hot 
 water, omitting the salt, grease and 
 rice. Instead of thinning the creamy 
 solution with water, use skim milk. 
 
38 
 
 Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 Pullets for Broilers. — Would you recom- 
 mend me to get last year's hens, or pullets of 
 this year, to hatch broilers, and for winter 
 eggs? 
 
 Pullets (or a male) hatched not later 
 than April, would probably answer, 
 but we think stock over one year 
 old better. 
 
 Broody JETews.— What is the best method 
 of breaking up broody hens ? 
 
 Shut them ia a pen by themselves, 
 away from nests, two or three days. 
 If you have a spare cock, or lively 
 young cockerel, put him in with 
 them. 
 
 Eoecrement on Chicks — What is the cause 
 of the excrement of incubator-hatched 
 chicks hanging on posteriors and hardening 
 there ? 
 
 It is the result of bowel disease, and 
 may be noticed on chicks with hens 
 also. Remove it and anoint parts 
 with a few drops of sweet oil. 
 
 Profit in Bantams. — Do you consider the 
 raising of Bantams at all profitable ? Are 
 their eggs salable ? 
 
 Being small, the eggs are not 
 always salable, but in proportion to 
 cost of keep, (and size of eggs in p'-o- 
 portion to size of fowl), they are 
 more profitable for home use than 
 any other breed. 
 
 Bow Old. — Is there any way to tell the 
 difference in the Tage of a one-year old hen 
 and a two-year-old hen ? 
 
 The hen has a more fully developed 
 body, the legs are rougher, and some 
 of them have spurs quite long. The 
 older the hen the more likely the 
 comb and wattles are rough or in- 
 jured, while the general plumage is 
 not as clear and bright as that of a 
 young hen, nor the older hens as 
 active or sprightly. 
 
 Describe Partridge Cochins. — Will you 
 please give me a description of Partridge 
 Cochins ? What should be the color of the 
 plumage.^earlobes, legs, and should the leg 
 and middle toe be covered with feathers in 
 order to be full blood ? 
 
 Head red, comb single, earlobes 
 red, neck red with black stripe down 
 middle of feather, back same, breast 
 black, tail black, legs yellow and 
 feathered on outside to end of outer 
 toe — middle toe feathered. 
 
 Toasted Corn. — I am feeding corn toasted, 
 every other night ; will that made hens lay ? 
 
 Yes, provided you give a variety of 
 feed also. 
 
 Fit for Service. — At what age is a healthy 
 
 Leghorn cockerel iit for breeding purposes ? 
 
 A Leghorn cockerel matures early. 
 
 He is serviceable when six months 
 
 old. 
 
 Botv to Ship Broilers. — Please give the 
 best way to prepare and ship broilers to New 
 York in winter and summer — 1000 miles. 
 
 Simply dry pick them, removing 
 only the feathers, pack in barrels, 
 and send by express. In summer it 
 is best not to ship so far. 
 
 Zate in Maturing.— I have two Wyandot 
 cockerels. They are over five months old 
 and have never crowed. They are healthy, 
 vigorous birds. What is the matter with 
 them ? Will they do to breed from ? 
 
 They are only slow in maturing, 
 and will probably be of large size. 
 They will crow soon enough, and 
 can be used for breeding purposes. 
 
 The Dunghills.— What is the average 
 number of eggs laid by a dunghill fowl in a 
 year, with reasonable good care and feed ? 
 
 No two dunghills are alike, hence 
 there are a thousand, (or more) kinds 
 of dunghills. They will sometimes 
 do well with good care, but seldom 
 exceed 80 or 100 eggs per year. 
 
 Plaster and Manure.— Vfliich is the best 
 way to save poultry manure? Will it pay to 
 buy land plaster to put under the roosts ? 
 I have board platforms under the roosts and 
 scatter lime and dust, clean every few days 
 and pack in barrels. Will it do to keep the 
 barrel out of doors well covered with boards? 
 Plaster is excellent and cheap. 
 Omit the lime, as it causes loss of 
 ammonia. Otherwise your method 
 is correct. Manure should be kept 
 dry, but the boards will answer if 
 they do not admit moisture. Sotaie 
 prefer to keep it moist with soap- 
 suds. 
 
 Combs of Brotvn ZiCghorns. — Please de- 
 scribe the combs of Single-Combed Brown 
 Leghorns, male and female, for breeders? 
 
 Comb is single; has five points. 
 Comb of male should be erect, and 
 that of the female should droop to 
 one side. 
 
Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 39 
 
 Carbolic Acid.— Is carbolic acid good in 
 the water for chickens ? 
 
 Carbolic acid is good for some pur- 
 poses, but should not be used in the 
 water. 
 
 ^6oMtJ5roifer*.— In crossing sitting and 
 non sitting breeds, which would you use for 
 the top cross? Also, what variety would 
 you breed for very early broilers ? 
 
 Always use a male from the non- 
 sitting breed. Small males with 
 large hens is the rule. 
 
 Crossing for JEggs. — I have Single Comb 
 Brown Leghorn hens, and would like to cross 
 them to improve their egg production and 
 size. How do you think it would do to use 
 a silver Spangled Hamburg or Black Minorca 
 cock? 
 
 Nothing is gained by crossing, as 
 it destroys the good qualities of both 
 parents. You cannot improve the 
 egg production of Leghorns by 
 crossing. 
 
 White Blaeli Spanish.— I have a W. F 
 Black Spanish hen that about the first of De- 
 cember began changing color, molting her 
 black feathers and growing white ones, until 
 now she is half white. Can jou explain it ? 
 
 l^o, it is simply a freak of nature. 
 
 l>ubbing. — Will you explain the operation 
 of "dubbing?" 
 
 The operation of dubbing is easily 
 performed. The right age is when 
 the chicks are from ten to twelve 
 weeks old, or when the comb has 
 made a good start to grow out. A 
 sharp pair of shears is the best 
 instrument to use; trim the comb 
 close to the head with one clip of the 
 shears, and one clip for each wattle, 
 and it is done The operation should 
 be performed in the evening, after 
 the fowls have gone to roost, as then 
 the few drops of blood drawn will 
 dry up, and the cuts be seared over 
 before morning. Use no hot iron, 
 grease, or wash of any kind, and the 
 fowls will go about their business 
 the next day, as though nothing had 
 happened. We do not approve of 
 the practice, as it is cruel. 
 
 Every Day JLayera. — What breed of hens 
 will lay every day? Some think that 
 Brahmas crossed with Plymouth Rocks will 
 lay every day, and chickens come early also. 
 
 There is no breed of fowls that will 
 lay every day. If one gets them to 
 lay 200 eggs a piece in a year he does 
 exceedingly well. 
 
 To Dilute Carbolic JLcid.— What will cut 
 crude carbolic acid so it can be diluted or 
 make it into a powder similar to what is sold 
 at the stores? What is understood by crude 
 petroleum and where can it be gotten ? 
 
 Dissolve in warm water and use the 
 water for slaking lime. Crude petro- 
 leum is the unrefined article, and 
 should be obtained at anv drug store. 
 
 Chicks Die in the Shell. — Why do chicks 
 die in the shell after pipping, and just before 
 time to come out ? 
 
 No one knows why chicks die in 
 the shell. There are many theories, 
 but no one knows. 
 
 JECoiv to Kill Fowls. — Is there any better 
 way of killing fowls for the table than by cut- 
 ting off their heads ? 
 
 Cutting off the head insures 
 thorough bleeding for one thing, 
 which cutting across the roof of the 
 mouth does not nurely do, and this 
 thorough bleeding is a very im- 
 portant part of the wholesomeness 
 of the meat. If the severed neck is 
 unsightly, the skin can be drawn 
 over the end and tied with a bit of 
 cord, concealing the ragged neck. 
 
 Chemistry of Egg Shells.— Of what is the 
 shell of eggs composed ? 
 
 A writer in Popular Science 
 Monthly says: "The shell proper of 
 an egg is made up mostly of earthy 
 materials. The proportions vary 
 according to the food of the bird, 
 but 90 to 97 per cent is carbonate 
 of lime. The remainder is composed 
 of from two to five per cent, of 
 animal matter and from one to five 
 per cent, of phosphate of lime and 
 magnesia. Now, some one asks, 
 where does the hen procure the car- 
 bonate of lime with which to form 
 the shell ? If we confine fowls in a^ 
 room and feed them with any of the 
 cereal grains, excluding all sand, 
 dust, or earthy matter, they will ga 
 on for a time and lay eggs, each one 
 having a perfect shell, made up of 
 the same calcareous elements. Vau- 
 quelin shut up a hen for ten days 
 and fed her exclusively upon oats, 
 of which she consumed 7474 grains 
 in weight. During this time four 
 etjgs were laid, which weighed 
 nearly 409 grains; of this amount 
 276 grains were carbonate of lime, 
 17i grains phosphate of lime and 10 
 grains gluten. But there is only a 
 little carbonate of lime in oats. 
 
40 
 
 Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 Ziight TolJes. — Why is it that the yolks of 
 the eggs from my hens are light in color 
 instead of yellow ? 
 
 It is due to lack of coloring matter 
 in the food, and happens during the 
 cold season. In summer when grass 
 is plentiful, the color will be deeper. 
 The light color is no indication that 
 the eggs are lacking in quality. 
 
 Value of S^erosene. — Give us your esti- 
 mate on the value of kerosene in the poultry 
 yard. 
 
 The many uses that kerosene may 
 be put to in the poultry yard make 
 it an indispensible article. For 
 painting the inside of nest boxes for 
 sitting hens there is nothing equal to 
 it, as it surely kills all vermin with 
 which it comes in contact, and pre- 
 vents other vermin entering the 
 nest until it is entirely evaporated, 
 which, if the crude oil is used, will 
 give the hen amply time to hatch 
 her brood. A few drops in the 
 drinking water occasionally has a 
 good effect upon the general health 
 of the flock, and for colds or roup 
 there is nothing better, if carefully 
 applied. 
 
 Crude CnrboHc Acid. — I wish to inquire 
 about carbolic acid. I suppose it can be 
 bought in powder, in crystals and in solution. 
 Which is the best way to buy it? How 
 sliould the powder or crystals be dissolved? 
 What proportion of water ? I want to use it 
 aboiit the hennery. " One tablespoonful of 
 carbolic acid to a quart of slacked lime." 
 Does this mean tie acid in powder or solu- 
 tion ? About how much should I pay for it 
 by the pound ? 
 
 It is sold in all conditions, crystal- 
 ized and crude. Also a solution. 
 The crude acid is the kind used. 
 The liquid is of varying strength. 
 An ounce of the crude dissolved in 
 a pint of water answers for ordinary 
 purposes. A tablespoonful of a 
 solution of carbolic acid to a quart 
 of lime will make the carbonate of 
 lime. The crystalized is §1.00 per 
 pound, the liquid (saturated sola 
 tion) is 60 cents per pound. Crude 
 from 20 to 40 cents. 
 
 Fron-en Combs.— Are hons with frozen 
 combs as good as tliose not so injured ? 
 
 If the combs heal they are not in- 
 ,tured as layers. It is only during 
 the time the comb is sore that they 
 will not lay. A frozen comb is 
 always unsightly. 
 
 Space per Fowl. — How many square feet 
 to each fowl should be allowed ? 
 
 The rule is to allow a house 5 xlO 
 feet for ten hens, which gives each 
 hen 5 square feet. In the winter a 
 number of fowls may be together. 
 The space applies to the square feet 
 on the floor of the house only. The 
 yard should be ten times as large as 
 house if possible. 
 
 Netv Blood, — J'uly Match. — 1. Would it 
 injure the progeny, in line markings and egg 
 production, to cross a cock of a particular 
 strain on hens of another strain, all being of 
 the same breed? 2. Would Leghorn chicks, 
 hatched in July, be matured in December, 
 About what month would their eggs be 
 fertile? 
 
 1. It would be an advantage to do 
 so if careful selection was made. Of 
 course, to preserve markings the 
 parents must be well marked. 3. 
 Leghorn pullets often begin to lay 
 when five months old, hence your 
 pullets may begin in December, but 
 the eggs may not all be fertile. 
 
 Preserving Qreen Food for the Wititer, — 
 
 How can a silo be made foi ensilage for fowls? 
 
 A silo is simply a strong, air-tight 
 box, pit or hogshead — in fact, any- 
 thing that will answer the purpose — 
 and ensilage is green food such as 
 grass, vegetable tops, growing corn 
 or any substance that will be relished 
 by poultry. For poultry, a strong 
 barrel or hogshead will answer. The 
 green food should not be cut until it 
 is near maturity, or it will be largely 
 composed of water. If cut just be- 
 fore ripening, the elements intended 
 for the formation of seeds will be 
 arrested in the stalks, and ensilage 
 will be more nutritious. Pass the 
 material through a cutter to get it 
 into half inch lengths. Pack it close 
 and tight in the barrel, and place 
 the head of the barrel on the 
 ensilage The head should be just 
 small enough to go down into the 
 barrel. On the barrel-head place 
 stones, or any kind of weight, so that 
 when the contents of the barrel are 
 compressed and sink, the head of 
 the barrel will sink with it. As the 
 contents go down, add more ensilage 
 until the barrel is full. The heavy 
 pressure will exclude the air, and the 
 contents can be kept in an excellent 
 state of preservation. 
 
Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 41 
 
 Temperature for BoM«e.— Should a chick- 
 en house be warm enough so it will not 
 freeze for hens to lay well, and should they 
 be allowed to run, or shut up in pens ? 
 
 About 40 degrees above zero is not 
 too cold. The hens may be allowed 
 to run out at will, as they will be 
 governed by instinct, but should be 
 kept shut up on raw, damp days. 
 
 Net Profit per ffen.— What is the net 
 profit to be reasonably expected per hen? 
 
 Experiments made in different sec 
 tions show that the cost of feeding a 
 hen one year is about $1, and that 
 the profit is about the same, the 
 gross receipts from the hen being 
 about |2 a year. Of course^ this 
 varies according to the breed, cost 
 of food and location being more and 
 sometimes less ; but it is accepted 
 that |1 pays the cost and $1 profit is 
 made from each hen. 
 
 JPreserving tJie Droppings. --What is the 
 
 most practical way of keeping the droppings 
 until they can be applied to the soil '? 
 
 The best way to preserve them is 
 to clean out the house every alter- 
 nate day. Mix one bushel dry earth, 
 one bushel droppings, and half a 
 peck of kainit (crude German potash 
 salts) together, and put away in a dry 
 place. Kainit can be bought by the 
 bag at any fertilizer store, and is not 
 only cheap, but of itself a good 
 potash fertilizer. In the mixture it 
 forms sulphates, and fixes the 
 ammonia. If it cannot be procured, 
 use dry land plaster instead, but 
 kainit is much better. Keep the 
 mixture moist. 
 
 Mixing the Breed.— 1 have some Lang- 
 shans that have run with a mixed flock. I 
 want to mate them with a Langshan cock; 
 how long before I can have pure eggs? 
 
 About ten days is allowed, but a 
 month is safer. 
 
 Ijitter in Brooder JBwn«.— What should 
 be used f©r litter in brooders and runs, and 
 is sawdust objectionable? 
 
 Do not use sawdust, as chicks will 
 sometimes fill their crops with saw- 
 dust. For very small chicks, bran is 
 more suitable. 
 
 Changing Males.— \s it necessary to 
 change male birds, and how often ? 
 
 Keep them several seasons if 
 vigorous. Do not change oftener 
 than necessary and do not be afraid 
 of inbreeding. 
 
 Green Bones, Ete.—l. How often should 
 green bones be fed, and how much to ten 
 hens? 2. How often, and how much, to 
 growing chicks? 3. Is it better to keep the 
 pullets from other fowls? 4. Which is the 
 better way to feed clover to laying hens— 
 to cure it and steam it, or feed it green? 
 5. Will young ducks thrive in brooders' 
 as well as with hens? 
 
 1. Feed one pound a day to six- 
 teen hens. 2. Keep it before the 
 chicks all the time. 3. It is better 
 to keep them separate. 4. Feed it 
 green in summer and cured in 
 winter. 5. They thrive fully as 
 well in brooders. 
 
 The BorJeing—Why do the Americans give 
 the Dorkings such little attention? In 
 England it is more highly prized than any 
 other fowl. 
 
 The Dorking is one of the best of 
 fowls and thrives best in England, 
 for reasons not well understood, as 
 they make hardy fowls in this 
 country when matured, but the 
 <5hicks are hard to raise. A cross of 
 the Dorking and Brahma, however, 
 makes a fowl compact in form, 
 plump and well adapted to America. 
 
 standard Weiglits.—Vle&se give the Stan- 
 dard weights for the various breeds of fowls- 
 
 The following table gives the in- 
 formation in concise form:— 
 
 BREED. COCK. COCK'L. HEN. PUL. 
 
 Lt. Brahma.... 12 lbs. 10 lbs. 9^2 lbs. Slbs. 
 
 Dark do 11 " 9 " SV^ " 7 " 
 
 All Cochins..-. 11 " 9 " S}4 " 7 " 
 
 Langshan 9^2" 8 " 7 " 6 " 
 
 All P. Rocks.... 93^" 8 " IH " 6I4" 
 
 All Wyandots.. 81-2 " 7I2" ^}4 " S>-2" 
 
 AllJavas 10 " 8}i-' 8 " 63^" 
 
 W. Dorkings 73;'2 " 6>^" » " 5 " 
 
 S. G. do 8 " 7 " 614 " 5J^" 
 
 Colored do 9}^" 8 " 7}4 " 6 " 
 
 All Minorcas....8 " (i}^" 61.2 " 5^" 
 
 Red Caps 7% " (> " 6^2 " 5 " 
 
 Am. DominiqueSi^" 71^" 6J^ " 5^" 
 
 Houdans 7 " 6 " 6 "5 
 
 LaFleche 8i^ " 73^' 7]^ " 6^" 
 
 Creve Coeur 8 " 7 " 7 "6 " 
 
 If they are under the following 
 weights they are disqualified and 
 cannot compete in any well -regulated 
 exhibition, viz : 
 
 BREED. COCK. COCK'L. HEN. PUL. 
 
 Lt. Brahma.... 9 lbs. 714 lbs. 71^ lbs. 6 lbs. 
 
 Dark do 9 " 1}4" 7 " 5 " 
 
 All Cochins 7 " 7 " 8 " 5}^" 
 
 Langshans 81,^" 6.)^" 7 '• 5 " 
 
42 
 
 Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 Maturity of BamJrurgs.- I have Silver 
 Spangled Hamburg chicks hatched the lat- 
 ter part of April. Will they be matured by 
 the 15th of September ? 
 
 They should be matured by 
 September, as the small breeds 
 mature quickly. 
 
 About Crosses.— It I should cross single- 
 comb birds with rose comb, what would be 
 the result ? 2. Are there rose-comb Minor- 
 cas ? 3. Are eggs fiom cross breeds ever 
 sold for hatching? How much are they 
 worth ? 4. What is the standard weight of 
 Lacgshans and of Minorcas ? 5. Do Minor- 
 cas lay as large eggs as the Leghorns ? 
 
 1. The result will be both rose and 
 single-comb chicks. 2. Yes. 3. 
 Very seldom. Not much. 4. Lang- 
 shan male nine and one-half pounds; 
 Minorca male eight pounds, o. Yes. 
 
 Broivn JSygs and yon-Sitters — Do all 
 
 non-sitters lay white eggs ? 
 
 It is, perhaps, something curious 
 that all the non-sitting breeds lay 
 eggs that are pure white in color. 
 The brown eggs come from the large 
 Asiatic breeds, though the eggs from 
 Wyandottes, Langshans and Ply- 
 mouth Rocks are somewhat dark. 
 While some of our enterprising 
 breeders are working on the produc 
 tion of meritorious new breeds, thej' 
 might find it profitable to turn their 
 attention to the establishment of a 
 non-sitting breed which will lay 
 brown eggs. It is a wide field in 
 which to work, and, as nothing 
 seems impossible with this genera- 
 tion, success may be attained. It is 
 safe to state that when a non-sitting 
 breed (Leghorns, for instance), is 
 introduced that lays brown eggs, 
 the originator will find himself well 
 taxed to fill the orders that will be 
 poured in upon him. 
 
 Eggs or Broilers.— Which does it pay best 
 to produce, eggs or broilers ? 
 
 The fact is that both pay best. If 
 you expect to make eggs pay and not 
 keep the egg producing breeds, you 
 will not be so successful. But which 
 are the egg-producing breeds ? They 
 are those breeds that are kept in 
 full exercise, and not over fed, and 
 which are hardy according to the 
 climate. Do not lose sight of that 
 one quality hardinesn. The best 
 breed in New England is not the 
 best breed in Florida. The best 
 breed for confinement is not the best 
 
 on the range. Where the winters 
 are cold and long such breeds as the 
 Brahamas, Cochins, Plymouth 
 Rocks, Langshans, Wyandottes, and 
 even Leghorns, will serve well, and 
 in more moderate climates the Leg- 
 horns, Hamburgs, Grames, Black 
 Spanish and Minorcas will give good 
 results, but in cold climates, with 
 good care, they will also be profit- 
 able. The man who finds no money 
 in eggs is the one who does not im- 
 prove his stock. 
 
 SEVERAL OllERiES. 
 
 Would Leghorns crossed with 
 Dorkings make good broilers ? (Yes). 
 — At what age should chicks of the 
 large breeds be allowed to roost 
 without danger of crooked breast 
 bone? (When about five months 
 old). — At what age should Light 
 Brahma pullets begin to lay ? 
 (About eight months). — Are Minorcas 
 non-sitters? (Yes). — Should pepper 
 be given to fowls? (No). What 
 makes eggs sometimes look "white 
 livered?" (It is on account of the 
 feed, (iive some fresh meat and 
 clover) — What is "vulture hock?" 
 (Stiff projecting feathers at the 
 hock joint). — Should all eggs from 
 the same breed of fowls be of the 
 same color? (Not necessarily). — Will 
 coal ashes take the place of road 
 dust for a bath? (Yes). — Is unsla eked 
 lime injurious to fowls if they eat it? 
 (No). — Will pullets begin to lay 
 earlier if a cockerel runs with them? 
 (No). — How many fowls are enough 
 to be kept in a building 32x23 ft.? 
 (Fifty, in two pens, 25 in each) — 
 What will take frost out of frozen 
 combs and wattles? (Grlycerine put 
 on three times a week; — At what age 
 should a Wyandot cockerel begin to 
 crow? (Sometimes they crow when 
 three months old). — Do pure-bred 
 Wyandots ever throw single combs? 
 (Sometimes, but rarely). If a rose- 
 comb Leghorn cockerel is mated to 
 single-comb pullet what comb would 
 the offspring have? (Some single, 
 some rose). What is the usual price 
 for incubator-hatched chicks a day 
 old? (Ten cents). — Will hens swallow 
 without injury, large pieces of bone? 
 (Yes, as large as a bean or larger). 
 — How shall I keep sun flower seeds 
 in winter ? (Simply in a dry place). 
 — How soon can I tell the chicks that 
 are first-class or not? (Not until 
 nearly grown).— Will the black ever 
 
Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 43 
 
 come off the beaks of a Plymouth 
 Rock chick? (Yes).— Is a run 100x50 
 feet large enough for one cock and 
 ten hens? (Yes).— Would it be best 
 to divide it? (Yes.).— I have a yard, 
 25x70 feet; my house is about 8x8 
 feet, how many fowls should I keep? 
 (About 25). Should I keep my hens 
 and pullets in the same yard? 
 (Better! keep them separate). — Will 
 pullets hatched last April do to 
 breed from this Spring? (They will). 
 
 POINTS ON LICE. 
 
 1 . When chicks droop, and appear 
 sick without cause, especially in sum- 
 mer, look for lice (not for little red 
 mites), but the large grey body lice 
 on the heads and necks. 
 
 2. If you find them use a few 
 drops of grease of any kind. A tea- 
 spoonful of oil of pennyroyal to a 
 cup of lard is excellent. 
 
 3. Look under the wings for the 
 red lice, but use only a few drops of 
 the lard. 
 
 4. Never grease the bodies of 
 chicks unless lightly, as grease will 
 often kill them. 
 
 5. Never use kerosene on chicks, 
 unless it be a teaspoonf ul of kerosene 
 to a teacup of lard, as it is irritating. 
 
 6. Crude petroleum, is always ex- 
 cellent, and serves as a liniment, but 
 mix it with twice its quantity of 
 lard. 
 
 7. Keep the dust bath always 
 ready. Use dry dirt and sifted coal 
 ashes. Add carbolate of lime, 
 
 Persian insect powder, or oil penny- 
 royal to the dirt. 
 
 8. To rid the house of lice, 
 sprinkle coal oil everywhere — floor, 
 walls, roosts, yards, roof, inside and 
 outside, and repeat often. 
 
 9. Dust insect powders in tha 
 feathers, and be sure it is fresh and 
 good. 
 
 10. Put insect powder and tobacco- 
 dust in the nests. Clean them out 
 every week. 
 
 11. Even when no lice may be 
 present use the sprinkler of kerosene 
 at least once a week ; and keep the 
 roosts always saturated. 
 
 12. No matter how clean things 
 may appear look for the large lice 
 on the heads, throats and vents. 
 
 13. Lice abound both winter and 
 summer, but more especially in sum- 
 mer. 
 
 14. One half the chicks and young 
 turkeys die from lice. Chicks or 
 turkeys with hens or turkeys hens 
 always have lice, (either the mites 
 or large lice). Remember that. 
 
 15. Carbolate of lime is the 
 cheapest powder to use for dusting 
 over the floors and walls. 
 
 16. Always aim to get the solu- 
 tions of powders into the cracks.and 
 crevices. 
 
 17. The easiest and best way] to 
 whitewash is with a force pump. 
 They are now made to force water 
 from a bucket. 
 
CHAPTER Vil. 
 
 T^ux>li:eyi9, Ducks a.KLcl Geese. 
 
 TURKEYS. 
 
 Number for Setting. — How many eggs 
 should be placed under a Turkey hen ? 
 
 A good-sized bird will cover 20 
 
 Sore Eyes in Turkeys— 'Wha.t will cure sore 
 eyes in Turkeys ? 
 
 It is due to exposure during damp 
 weather. Anoint heads with sweet 
 oil, and keep them warm and 
 sheltered from winds. 
 
 Best \artety for the Farm — What breed 
 of turkeys would you advise the farmer to 
 keep ? 
 
 The Bronze or White Holland, as 
 they are hardier and not so closely 
 inbred as some birds. 
 
 Broken Eggs. — What can be done with a 
 turkey hen that has had a broken egg in her 
 over a month ? She appears quite and well. 
 Gave her castor oil but it did not relieve her. 
 Keep her on straw and give her 
 rest. Oil the parts and feed a table- 
 spoonful of linseed meal daily. 
 
 Cold in the Head. — My turkeys are all 
 swelled in the head under the eye toward 
 the nose, and they sneeze. Can you tell me 
 what the trouble is, and the cure ? 
 
 It is probably a cold in the head, 
 caused by exposure to cold storms or 
 draughts, probably from roosting on 
 trees during storms. Anoint heads 
 with sweet oil, and keep the birds 
 sheltered. 
 
 Feed for Turks. — What should young turks 
 be fed the first week? 
 
 A successful turkey-raiser feeds the 
 chicks during the first eight days on 
 eggs boiled hard and minced ; during 
 the second week he adds to this 
 bread-crumbs, chopped with parsley 
 and onions; during the third week 
 he keeps back the eggs, and only 
 continues the bread and the veget 
 ables; afterward, instead of the 
 bread, he gives moistened meal, 
 boiled peas, and above all, millet, of 
 which young turkeys are very fond. 
 
 Weight of Bronzes. — What should Bronze 
 turkeys weigh ? 
 
 Males at six months of age weigh 
 from 1« to 32 pounds. Females 10 to 
 14 pounds. Mature males 30 to 40 
 pounds ; females 18 to 22 pounds. 
 
 Age for Breeding Purposes.— Is a turkey 
 gobbler four or five yeais old as good for 
 breeding purposes as one a year old ? 
 
 A gobbler is better at three or four 
 years old as a breeder than a year 
 old bird. 
 
 Trouble from Lice. — What ails our young 
 turkeys? They are active and hearty, but 
 in a day or so begin to die. They are 
 hatched by hens and good care is given them? 
 Look on the heads and necks for 
 the large louse. Gfrease heads, necks 
 and vents, with a few drops of sweet 
 oil. 
 
 Turkeys for Farmers.— Ca-n farmers do much 
 at raising turkeys ? 
 
 No one can succeed better with tur- 
 keys than the farmer if he will be- 
 stow upon them a fraction of the 
 care he gives his sheep and cattle. 
 Confinement does not suit them, 
 bat give them the run of the farm; 
 while they do no damage to the 
 growing crops they do them much 
 good by their destruction of insects, 
 more especially grasshoppers, that 
 frequently destroy whole fields of 
 grain. When they can get these 
 they require but little other feed, 
 but they should be fed a little grain 
 at night so they will be sure to re- 
 turn home to roost. Fifty or more 
 can be raised on most -farms each 
 year without ever missing what it 
 takes to keep them and at Thanks- 
 giving they will bring enough ready 
 cash to buy the winter clothing for 
 an ordiuary family, or pay a year's 
 taxes on a farm. 
 
 Standard Varieties.— How many varieties 
 does the " Standard" recognize? 
 
 Six breeds — the Bronze, White, 
 Black, Buff, Slate and Narragansett. 
 
Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 45. 
 
 Best as Breeders.~At what age should 
 breeders be selected ? 
 
 Do not breed from a yearling 
 gobbler if it can be avoided. Hens 
 should be two years old. 
 
 Fattening Turkeys.— State the best feed to 
 fatten turkeys. 
 
 To fatten turkeys give them their 
 accustomed range and all the cooked 
 corn, meal and potatoes they will eat 
 up clean twice a day; plenty of 
 grain at night and milk to drink at 
 all times. Mix a little pulverized 
 charcoal in the food once a day. 
 Three weeks of this feeding and 
 your turkeys will be in the best 
 possible condition for the table; 
 that is, if they have been growing 
 and in good condition from the 
 start. Remember that no amount 
 of stuffing for a few weeks just be 
 fore killing will make a prime, extra- 
 large, table or market bird out of a 
 turkey that has been starved and 
 stunted. 
 
 Preparing Turkeys for Market. — Give the 
 best method of preparing turkeys for market- 
 In marketing turkeys always have 
 them dressed, and be sure that they 
 have been picked when dry. The 
 feathers should be removed while 
 the bird is bleeding, and the draw- 
 ing done immediately afterwards. 
 The wings should be cut off and the 
 neck bone where the head has been 
 removed so cut that the skin can be 
 readily drawn over it. The neck is 
 then thorougly washed from blood 
 and wiped dry, after which the skin 
 is tied and trimmed. The remaining 
 work should be done with neatness 
 and thoroughness. Thoughtfulness 
 and good care should be exercised 
 from the first, that the skin is pre- 
 served well. This gives the young 
 bird a finished appearance and they 
 will command the best prices. Boxes 
 should be used for packing, and 
 some believe it profitable to have 
 them made to order. They should 
 hold 150 to 200 pounds each and the 
 birds should be packed without 
 using paper. Sort them carefully, 
 placing the larger and smaller birds 
 in separate boxes. No mixture of 
 qualities should go in one box. Pack 
 the birds closely when thoroughly 
 eold. They should not shake when 
 the cover is nailed down. 
 
 CONDENSED HINTS ON TURKEYS. 
 
 1. Never let young turkeys get 
 wet. Dampness is fatal. 
 
 2. Feed nothing the first twenty- 
 four hours after they are hatched. 
 
 3. Before putting them in the 
 coop see that it is perfectly aleBJi and 
 free from lice, and dust them three 
 times a week with Persian insect 
 powder. 
 
 4. Be sure the hen is free from 
 lice. Dust her, too. 
 
 5. Look out for mites and the 
 large lice on the heads, necks and 
 vents. Grrease heads, necks and 
 vents with lard, but avoid, kerosene. 
 
 6. Nine-tenths of tbe young tur- 
 keys die from lice. Remember that. 
 
 7. Filth will soon make short 
 work of them. Feed on clean sur- 
 faces. Grive water in a manner so 
 they can only wet their heaks. 
 
 8. The first week feed a mixture 
 of one egg, beaten, and wheat 
 middlings one part, ground meat one 
 part, corn meal one part, mixed, with 
 salt to taste, and cooked as bread, 
 then crumble for them, with milk or 
 curds so they can drink all they want 
 Feed every two hours early and late. 
 
 9. Grive a little raw meat every 
 day ; also, finely chopped onions, or 
 other tender green food. 
 
 10. After the first week keep 
 wheat and ground meat, in boxes, 
 before them all the time, but feed, 
 three times a day, on a mixture of 
 corn meal, wheat middlings, ground 
 oats, cooked, and to which chopped 
 green food is added. 
 
 DUCKS. 
 
 Eggs DonH Hatch. — I want to know why 
 my duck eggs did not hatch good. I keep 
 from 102 to 104 in an incubator and give 
 them plenty of moisture ? 
 
 Perhaps you give too much 
 moisture. Duck eggs require but 
 little moisture at first. No more at 
 any time than hen's eggs. 
 
 Cholera, Roup and Gapes. — Are ducks liable 
 to cholera, roup, or gapes ? 
 
 They are exempt from these 
 diseases. 
 
 How Many Drakes. — How many drakes 
 should be mated with 24 ducks ? 
 
 Allow one drake for five or six 
 females. 
 
46 
 
 Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 Ducks as Breeders. — Are ducks as prolific 
 layers as hens; and are they as good 
 breeders ? 
 
 A duck will lay more es:gs than 
 some breeds of hens and her eggs 
 will hatch better. 
 
 Young Ducks Eggs. — Will duck eggs hatch 
 -as soon as ducks first lay? 
 
 It depends on their condition. 
 Sometimes when ducks are very 
 young, their eggs are not perfect. 
 
 Weight of Pekins. — What is the average 
 ■weight of Pekin ducks ? 
 
 If the ducks in a flock average 
 seven pounds each it will be a good 
 one. Standard weight is 8 pounds 
 for an adult drake and seven pounds 
 for female. 
 
 Heat, Water, Etc. — Which is best for young 
 ducks, top heat with cold floor, or bottom 
 heat? If the laying stock have access to 
 river will they do better, the eggs be more 
 fertile, and ducklings stronger, than if they 
 are yarded, with only water to drink? 
 
 Top heat is better. The ducks 
 will thrive better on the water, but 
 it will be more difficult to secure the 
 
 eggs. 
 
 Pekin and Aylesbury. — 1. What is the differ- 
 ence between the Pekin and Aylesbury duck? 
 2. How long will eggs be good for hatching 
 after the drake is removed ? 
 
 The Pekin has an orange colored 
 bill, and legs of a dark orange. The 
 Aylesbury has flesh-colored bill 
 and light orange-colored legs. 
 2. Probably about five days. Much 
 depends upon conditions. 
 
 Pekin Ducks as Layers. — Are Pekins good 
 layers ? 
 
 The Pekins will often begin to lay 
 when they are six months old, but 
 for next year the layers should be 
 from ducklings hatched in April, or 
 the old ducks should be retained. 
 it is better to use old females with 
 young drakes, if fertile eggs are 
 desired early in the season next 
 year. Pekins grow very fast and 
 mature early. When they begin to 
 lay, they produce a large number of 
 eggs before they cease. 
 
 Dressing Ducks for Market. — How should 
 ■ducks be dressed for market? 
 
 Young ducks are usually marketed 
 dressed, leaving on heads and legs, 
 but some markets require the 
 entrails to be drawn, while others 
 do not. 
 
 Turnips for Ducks. — Are turnips good for 
 ducks ? 
 
 Grow a crop of turnips for ducks, 
 if you intend to raise a large number. 
 On the large establishments, where 
 hundreds of ducks are raised, a 
 principal food for them is cooked 
 turnips, with a small proportion of 
 ground grain. No crop can be 
 grown to better advantage than 
 turnips and in no way can turnips 
 be grown so profitably as to feed 
 them to ducks. 
 
 Food for Ducklings. — What is the best food 
 for young Pekin ducklings when first 
 hatched ? When they are very young is it 
 best for them to have water to swim in, or 
 only enough to drink ? 
 
 Soft food, such as cornmeal, bran 
 and ground oats, scalded, four times 
 a day, as much as they will eat 
 should be given. They should also 
 have finely cut clover, scalded 
 potatoes, turnips, or a variety of any 
 kind. Give lukewarm water, in 
 troughs. Cold water causes cramps. 
 
 Crossing Ducks. — Give some suggestions on 
 crossing ducks. 
 
 A cross between the Pekin drake 
 and Rouen female makes the best 
 duckling, as it is white in color, like 
 the Pekin, and has the hardiness of 
 the Rouen. Both breeds are very 
 large and grow rapidly. The white 
 color avoids pin feathers showing 
 when the ducklings are dressed. 
 They are never sold alive, as is the 
 case with the adults. The Ayles- 
 bury is also an excellent white duck 
 and nearly as large as the Pekin, the 
 two white breeds making an ex- 
 cellent cross. Always use males of 
 the Pekin, Rouen, or Aylesbury 
 when grading up a common flock. 
 The White Muscovy drake and 
 Pekin female is an excellent cross, 
 giving a very compact carcass. 
 
 Duck Diseases. — Are ducks liable to disease 
 as much as fowls ? 
 
 They are subject to but few 
 diseases. Cramps occur from cold 
 water. Leg weakness comes from 
 damp quarters at night. Apoplexy 
 attacks grown ducks when they are 
 very fat, and they are also subject to 
 vertigo. If attacked by the large, 
 grey body lice on the heads, they 
 will appear apparently well and 
 suddenly turn over on their backs 
 and die. The floor upon which 
 they sleep must be of boards and 
 should be kept very clean and dry. 
 Dampness is fatal to young ducks. 
 
Five Hundred Questions and Answers 
 
 47 
 
 Feeding Duckhngs. — How should ducks be 
 ■fed after twenty-four hours old ? 
 
 Feed them on a mixture of mashed 
 potatoes, which may be thickened 
 with ground grain (composed of 
 equal parts of corn meal, ground 
 oats and middlings), and give them 
 all the milk they can drink. Scald 
 all the food the first two weeks. 
 After they are three days old, give 
 them meat, chopped fine (or ground 
 mieat) mixed in their food three 
 times a week. Chopped grass, cab- 
 bage, vegetable tops, clover hay 
 chopped and steeped in water, or 
 any kind of green food may be given 
 liberally. After the second week 
 eooked turnips and ground grain 
 will answer, with a little ground 
 meat. Feed four times a day until 
 they go to market. 
 
 GEESE. 
 
 Geese to a Gander. — How many geese should 
 Tje allowed to run with one gander ? 
 
 Greese pair if sexes are equal, and 
 it is best to have an equal number 
 of both sexes ; but four females may 
 be allowed with a gander. 
 
 Hens as Mothers.— Is it better to hatch 
 their eggs out under a hen, or to let them 
 hatch and raise their own young? 
 
 Is it best to allow the eggs to be 
 hatched under geese, as they are the 
 natural mothers. Hens do not 
 always succeed in hatching geese 
 «ggs. 
 
 Cost of Raising. — How much does it cost to 
 raise a goose to maturity ? 
 
 To keep a goose confined, and the 
 food bought, the cost may be any- 
 where from |1 to §3; but if at liberty 
 the cost need not be more than 
 twenty-five cents. 
 
 Geese as Layers. — What kind are the most 
 prolific layers? How many eggs will one lay 
 the first year ? How many the second ? 
 
 We do not believe there is much 
 difference in the laying qualities of 
 the several breeds. Twenty eggs 
 are a fair average the first year after 
 maturity ; but after that it may 
 reach forty, as age makes but little 
 difference after the second year. 
 
 GfosKriffs.— When should they be allowed to 
 go in water ? 
 
 Not until well feathered, as they 
 are liable to be severely chilled if the 
 water is cold. 
 
 Egg Production — What is the best feed for 
 geese for egg production ? 
 
 The best feed is a variety of grain 
 and green stuff. They are very fond 
 of foraging. 
 
 The Toulouse. — Is the Toulouse the largest 
 breed ? 
 
 The Toulouse and Embden are of 
 the same size. The adult gander 
 should weigh 25 pounds. 
 
 Feed for Goslings. — What is the best feed 
 for young goslings ? 
 
 At first give ground grain, mixed 
 and scalded, mixed with chopped 
 onions. After they are a few days 
 old feed anything they will eat. 
 
 To Tell the Sex.—Kow can I tell the sex of 
 geese ? 
 
 The female has a coarse voice, 
 while that of the male is fine. The 
 male is heavier on the neck, and 
 masculine in appearance. 
 
 Wafer TVecessary. — Is a pond or stream of 
 water a necessity in keeping geese ? 
 
 Geese do best on a pond or stream, 
 and will wander to great distances. 
 They do not thrive if denied a body 
 of water in which to enjoy them- 
 selves. 
 
 For Feathers and Market — Which are the 
 best feathers and how much will one yield 
 in. a year ? Which are the best for market 
 and what is their " Standard " size ? 
 
 The best breed for feathers is the 
 Embden, they being entirely white; 
 but the Toulouse yield the heaviest. 
 The quantity ranges from ^ to ^ 
 pound a year. The best for market 
 is a cross of a Toulouse gander with 
 an Embden goose. Both breeds 
 attain, at times, the weight of from 
 -twenty to twenty-five pounds per 
 single bird. 
 
 Selecting Geese — Should I keep the old 
 geese or sell them ? 
 
 In thinning out the flock of geese, 
 always retain the old birds, as they 
 will often live and breed during th« 
 lifetime of a generation. Greese 
 have been known to hatch and raise 
 their young when twenty-five years 
 old. The old geese are not saleable 
 in market, and as they are better 
 layers and more careful mothers 
 than the young geese, the latter can 
 be marketed with more advantage 
 and profit than by selling off the old 
 birds. 
 
INI3EX, 
 
 Apoplexy 
 
 16 
 
 Eggs, Color 
 
 21 
 
 Nonsitters 
 
 42 
 
 Alfalfa 
 
 36 
 
 Eggs for Hatching 
 
 21,23 
 
 
 
 Age of Fowls 
 
 38 
 
 Egg Classification 
 
 22 
 
 Onions and Eggs 
 
 3 
 
 Beans for Fowls 
 
 4 
 
 Egg Eating 
 
 22 
 
 Oats Feeding 
 Oats and Rye 
 Oviduct 
 Overcrowding 
 
 3 
 
 Beef Blood 
 Buttermilk 
 Bone Meal 
 
 4 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 Earth Floors 
 Eggs, Handling 
 Egg Tester 
 
 26 
 
 32 
 
 21,36 
 
 4 
 16 
 27 
 
 Bone, Green 
 
 7,36,41 
 
 Egg Records 
 
 36 
 
 Pip 
 
 16 
 
 Bronchitis 
 
 16 
 
 Egg-Cross 
 
 39 
 
 Proliflcness 
 
 21 
 
 Bromide Potash 
 
 17 
 
 Flaxseed 
 
 3 
 
 Packing Eggs 
 
 22 
 
 Brown Eggs 
 
 22, 42 
 
 Feeding, How Often 
 
 3 
 
 Preserving Eggs 
 
 23 
 
 Blood Spots 
 
 23 
 
 Feeding Ten Fowls 
 
 4 
 
 Partitions 
 
 24 
 
 Buildings, Plan 
 
 24, 25 
 
 Feeding in General 
 
 5 
 
 Pulling Primaries 
 
 86 
 
 Broilers, Best 
 
 30 
 
 Peed for Chicks 
 
 5, 7, 37 
 
 Polish Fowls - 
 
 37 
 
 Brooder Chicks 
 
 ' 30 
 
 Feeding Mixed Grain 
 
 5 
 
 Pumpkin Seeds 
 
 37 
 
 Brooder House 
 
 30, 31 
 
 Feeding, Hints on 
 
 7, 8 
 
 Partridge Cochins 
 
 38 
 
 Broiler Raising 30, 3i 
 
 , 33, 39 
 
 Fattening 
 
 6 
 
 Poultry Manure 
 
 39, 41 
 
 Black Minorcas 
 
 35 
 
 Foods, Wet 
 
 y 
 
 Plaster 
 
 39 
 
 Bantams 
 
 35, 38 
 
 Foot,Bcil on 
 
 18 
 
 Preserving Green Food 40 
 
 Bolton Grays 
 
 36 
 
 Fumigation 
 
 18,27 
 
 Roup- 9,1011,15 
 
 Broodiness 
 
 38 
 
 Fertilization 
 
 23 
 
 Rheumatism 
 
 14, 16 
 
 Brown Leghorn Comb 
 
 38 
 
 Floor Space 
 
 26, 41 
 
 Red Mites 
 
 16 
 
 Black Spanish 
 
 39 
 
 Floors 
 
 26,27 
 
 Resting Eggs 
 
 28 
 
 Broilers or Eggs 
 
 42 
 
 Green Oats 
 
 3 
 
 Ridge on Shell 
 
 35. 
 
 Carbonaceous Poods 
 
 3 
 
 Gravel 
 
 5.36 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sun Flower Seeds 
 
 4. 
 
 Clover 
 Coal Ashes 
 Calves' Meat 
 
 4, 6 
 4 
 5 
 
 Green Foods 
 Grain, Mixed 
 (irit 
 
 4,5,40 
 
 6, 19 
 6 
 12 
 
 47 
 
 Sugar Cane Seed 
 Skin Diseases 
 
 4 
 
 15 
 
 Carrots 
 
 Chicks, Feed for 
 Charcoal 
 Canker 
 
 5 
 
 6,38 
 
 6 
 
 12, IH 
 
 tirain Ration 
 
 Gapes 
 
 Geese 
 
 Scabby Legs 
 Sulphur 
 Sore Head 
 Scouring 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 17, 20 
 
 18 
 
 Cholera 
 
 13,15 
 
 Hash 
 
 5 
 
 Swelled Head 
 
 !»■ 
 
 Constipation 
 
 15 
 
 House, Stone-walled 
 
 24 
 
 Suggestions 
 
 '19 
 
 Crop, Swollen 
 
 15 
 
 House for Fowls 24 
 
 , 26, 27 
 
 Soft Shells 
 
 21 
 
 Colds 
 
 15 
 
 House for Four Breed 
 
 ? 27 
 
 Small Eggs 
 
 21 , 36 
 
 Comb, White 
 
 16 
 
 Heating House 
 
 27 
 
 Shipping Eggs 
 
 22, 36 
 
 Catarrh 
 
 16 
 
 Handling Eggs 
 
 31 
 
 Standard 
 
 36 
 
 Comb, Frosted 
 
 17, 40 
 
 Hamtaurgs 
 
 42 
 
 Shells for Fowls 
 
 37 
 
 Condition Powders 
 Cement, Floor 
 
 18 
 27 
 
 Indigestion 
 Insects in Brooder 
 
 14,15 
 17 
 
 Shells, Composition of 
 Standard Weights 
 
 39 
 41 
 
 Cellar 
 
 30 
 
 Incubator Eggs 
 
 21 
 
 Tin othy 
 
 5 
 
 Chicks Dying in Shell 
 
 30,39 ; 
 
 Incubator Rules 
 
 29, 30 
 
 Tonic 
 
 17, 39 
 
 Coops, Shipping 
 
 35 
 
 Incubators 
 
 31,34 
 
 Testing Eggs 
 
 21, 30 
 
 Capons 
 
 Cross Brfeding 3(5, 37 
 
 35 
 39, 42 
 
 Killing Fowls 
 
 39 
 
 Temperature, Incubator 30,31 
 Toasted Corn 38 
 
 Cockerels 
 
 36 
 
 Kerosene 
 
 40 
 
 Temperature for House 
 
 41 
 
 Classification 
 Carbolic Acid 
 
 37 
 39, 40 
 
 Light Brahmas 
 
 6 
 
 Turkeys 
 
 44,45 
 
 Discharge at Nostrils 
 DiarrhcRa 
 
 14 
 14 
 
 Leg Weakness 
 
 Lice 15 
 
 Liver Disease 
 
 14,27 
 
 17,43 
 
 19 
 
 Vegetables 
 Ventilation J =i. 
 
 24, 27 
 
 Dampness 
 
 15 
 
 Limber Neck 
 
 35 
 
 Worms 
 
 16 
 
 Disinfectant 
 
 17 
 
 Leghorn Comb 
 
 37 
 
 Warts 
 
 17 
 
 Dorkings 
 Ducks 
 
 41 
 
 45, 46 
 
 39 
 
 Meat Scraps 
 
 4 
 
 Water Crop 
 
 19' 
 
 Dubbing 
 
 Meat, Raw 
 Moisture, Incubator 
 
 31 
 
 Winter Ventilation 
 White Minorcas 
 
 27' 
 36 
 
 Ensilage 
 
 6, 41 
 
 Mating 
 
 85 
 
 Whitewash 
 
 37 
 
 Enteritis 
 
 18 
 
 Males 37, 
 
 39, 41 
 
 Weights of Fowls 
 
 41 
 
 Egg-Bound 
 
 18 
 
 Moultii g 
 
 37 
 
 Yolks, .Color of 
 
 40-