f\ ;;':*' ;:/ ?.' of making a display distinct from the Austrian exhibit. The present powerful organization secured by the Board extends round the world, and stands with perfect solidarity for the purpose of serving the interests of our sex, and making the industrial conditions easier for women. We have such an organization as has never before existed of women for women. That this work is needed is evidenced by the pathetic answers from some of the countries where our invitation has INTRODUCTION. xi been declined. For instance, a letter from the Government of Tunis states that a commission of women cannot be formed in that country because local prejudice will not allow the native women to take part in public affairs. Syrian correspondents write that it will be impossible to secure the official appointment of a committee of women in that country, as custom prevents women from taking hold of such work, and the government will lend no aid ; but a successful effort was made to send a small exhibit, unofficially. Other Oriental countries make the same reports no schools women not intelligent enough to undertake the work public prejudice, etc. It seems incredible that the govern- ments of these countries would be willing to make admissions which reflect so discreditably upon themselves, or that they would allow these shameful conditions to continue. The oppressive bonds laid upon women, both by religion and custom, are in some cases so strong as to be unsurmountable, probably, during the present generation. A lady, eminent for her work on behalf of the women in India, has said that the difficulty in doing anything for them is their complete mental inactivity and their lack of desire to change their condition ; they are so bound by the prevailing laws of caste and the prejudices that exist, that they have no wish for different surroundings; the desire for something better must be created before anything can be done to help them. We trust that the movement for the advancement of women, inaugurated in connection with the World's Columbian Expo- sition, and which has steadily and swiftly progressed in its develop- ment, may create such a desire in the hearts of all women of all nations. Could we have the women of the Orient with us in large numbers, we might feel a happier surety of this. Yet there is the hopeful fact to re- cord, that even where the night has seemed the darkest, we have received letters from native women to whom the dawn of a brighter day is visi- ble, showing a full comprehension of the situation, and an awakened intelligence. These women have worked in their feeble way to send us, unofficially, such an exhibit as they were able to get together, notwith- standing official refusals. Without touching upon politics, suffrage, or other irrelevant issues^ this unique organization for women, the Board of Lady Managers, has devoted itself to the promotion of their industrial interests. It has addressed itself to the formation of a public sentiment, which will favor woman's industrial equality, and her receiving just compensation for services rendered. It has earnestly endeavored to secure for her work the consideration and respect which it deserves, and to establish her importance as an economic factor. To this end it has collected and xii INTRODUCTION. installed in these buildings exhibits, showing the value of her contribu- tions to the industries, sciences and arts, as well as statistics giving the proportionate amount of her work in every country. For the first time in history, women of all nations and of almost every condition, are working towards a common purpose along a firmly estab- lished line of co-operation, encircling the universe. This extraordinary international organization has the official recognition of the various gov- ernments represented, and that representation is of the majority of the important nations of the earth. These co-operative committees of women, acting with executive powers conferred by their respective gov- ernments, are also sustained in this great undertaking by governmental funds. From such conditions important results must be evolved. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGE. FROM A LOG HUT TO A METROPOLIS 17 CHAPTER II. RAPID GROWTH OF CHICAGO AND THE GREAT FIRE OF 1871 35 CHAPTER III. GREAT INDUSTRIES OF CHICAGO 54 CHAPTER IV. PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO 70 CHAPTER V. PARKS, BOULEVARDS AND OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST 117 CHAPTER VI. CELEBRATION OF THE DISCOVERY OF AMERICA BY COLUMBUS 145 CHAPTER VII. BOARD OF LADY MANAGERS AND ITS WORK 162 CHAPTER VIII. DEDICATION AND OPENING CEREMONIES 178 CHAPTER IX. MANUFACTURES AND LIBERAL ARTS BUILDING 210 CHAPTER X. MACHINERY HALL 229 xiii *iv CONTENTS. CHAPTER XI. PAGE. ELECTRICITY BUILDING 239 CHAPTER XII. AGRICULTURAL BUILDING 255 CHAPTER XIII. HORTICULTURAL BUILDING 271 CHAPTER XIV. ART PALACE 289 CHAPTER XV. WOMAN'S BUILDING 308 CHAPTER XVI. UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT BUILDING 336 CHAPTER XVII. FISHERIES BUILDING 358 CHAPTER XVIII. / TRANSPORTATION BUILDING 370 CHAPTER XIX. MINES AND MINING BUILDING 390 CHAPTER XX. EASTERN AND MIDDLE STATES AT THE FAIR 402 CHAPTER XXI. SOUTHERN STATES AT THE FAIR 426 * CHAPTER XXII. WESTERN STATES AT THE FAIR. ... 437 CONTENTS. xv CHAPTER XXIII. PAGE. WESTERN STATES AT THE FAIR (Continued) 462 CHAPTER XXIV. GREAT BRITAIN AND COLONIES 490 CHAPTER XXV. i ATTRACTIVE EXHIBITS FROM GERMANY AND BELGIUM 506 CHAPTER XXVI. ARTS AND INDUSTRIES OF FRANCE 521 CHAPTER XXVII. SPAIN, ITALY, AND THE COLUMBUS EXHIBITS 539 CHAPTER XXVIII. A GROUP OF EUROPEAN NATIONS 559 CHAPTER XXIX. CURIOSITIES FROM JAPAN 580 CHAPTER XXX. MEXICO AND SOUTH AMERICAN COUNTRIES 593 CHAPTER XXXI. FORESTRY BUILDING AND WOODED ISLAND 603 CHAPTER XXXII. i CHILDREN'S BUILDING 616 CHAPTER XXXIII. UNITED STATES NAVAL EXHIBIT 625 xvi CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXXIV. PAGE. WOMAN'S MARVELLOUS ACHIEVEMENTS 632 CHAPTER XXXV. CURIOUS SIGHTS ALONG MIDWAY PLAISANCE 651 CHAPTER XXXVI. STRANGE PEOPLE IN MIDWAY PLAISANCE 675 CHAPTER XXXVII. INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITIONS OF THE PAST 690 CHAPTER XXXVIII. INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITIONS OF THE PAST (Continued) 707 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. FULL PAGE PHOTOTYPE ENGRAVINGS. MRS. POTTER PALMER. MRS. NANCY HUSTON BANKS. THE MACMONNIES COLUMBIAN FOUNTAIN. STATUE OF THE REPUBLIC SHOWING THE PERISTYLE. THE DOLL EXHIBIT IN THE MANUFACTURES BUILDING. VIEW OF THE AGRICULTURAL BUILDING FROM THE LAGOON. THE CANADA BUILDING. WEDDING PROCESSION IN THE STREETS OF CAIRO. MIDWAY PLAISANCE. INTERIOR VIEW OF THE MANUFACTURES BUILDING. GROUP OF STAFF WORKERS. CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS. COLUMBUS SIGHTING LAND. ADMINISTRATION BUILDING. MACHINERY HALL. UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT BUILDING. MANUFACTURES AND LIBERAL ARTS BUILDING. MINES AND MINING BUILDING. ART INSTITUTE. AGRICULTURAL BUILDING. ELECTRICAL BUILDING. FISH AND FISHERIES BUILDING. WOMAN'S BUILDING. TRANSPORTATION BUILDING. HORTICULTURAL BUILDING. BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF THE WORLD'S COLUMBIAN EXPOSITION. THE ART PALACE. xviii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Columbus Headpiece 17 The Ensign of the City of Chicago 17 Fort Dearborn 19 Map of Chicago in 1812 21 General Anthony Wayne 23 Massacre by Indians at Fort Dearborn 24 The Old Kinzie House 27 Coat of Arms of Illinois 28 Map of Chicago in 1830 29 Chicago in 1833 30 Black Hawk 31 Green Tree House, the First Hotel in Chicago 33 Lake Street in 1870 40 The Burning of Chicago 43 The Day after the Fire 46 Map of the Burned District 49 A Prairie Farm Scene Near Chicago 52 Union Stock Yards . . . 55 Chicago River and Grain Elevators 60 Interior of Pullman Sleeping Car 64 Interior of Pullman Parlor Car 65 The Auditorium 71 Board of Trade Exterior 74 Board of Trade Interior 74 Libby Prison and War Museum 78 Siegel and Cooper's Retail Store 79 Chicago Post-Office 81 Union League Club 83 Ashland Building 84 Interstate Industrial Exposition Building 85 Presidential Nomination in Industrial Building 87 The County Court House 89 Adams and La Salle Streets 91 State Street from Randolph 93 La Salle Street looking North from the Board of Trade 97 Lincoln Tomb at Springfield 99 Michigan Avenue from the Lake Front 100 The Pullman Building 102 The Temple , 104 Masonic Temple 105 The Palmer House, Chicago 107 Great Northern Hotel 108 Leland Hotel, Chicago 109 South Park Avenue M. E. Church no South Congregational Church, Hyde Park in The Art Institute of Chicago 112 Grand Central Depot 114 Lake Shore and Michigan Southern Depot 115 Schiller Theatre 116 Hon. John A. Logan 118 The Late John A. Logan's Residence in Chicago 119 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xix PAGE Boat House and Restaurant, Lincoln Park 120 Lake Shore Drive, Lincoln Park 122 Grant Monument in Lincoln Park 123 Skating in Lincoln Park 124 Pavilion in Humboldt Park 125 Grand Boulevard I2 7 Drexel Boulevard I2 9 The Haymarket Monument . . - I3 1 Drexel Fountain J 3 2 Race Track, Washington Park 133 Douglas Monument . 134 Stephen A. Douglas 135 Chicago Water Works 1 3& Engines of the North Side Water Works 138 Water Works Crib 139 West Approach to Washington Street Tunnel 141 Entrance to Chicago Harbor 142 Head of Columbus 144 Ex-President Harrison 147 Thomas W. Palmer 149 Harlow N. Higginbotham 158 George R. Davis 159 Moses P. Handy 160 Map of the City of Chicago 164 Mrs. Potter Palmer 167 Hon. Levi P. Morton 179 Great Parade Passing the Palmer House 182 Chauncey M. Depew 184 Dedication of the World's Fair Buildings 187 The Ships of Columbus 190 President Cleveland 191 United States Dispatch Boat "Dolphin" 192 Group of War Vessels at the Naval Review in New York Harbor 194 United States Cruiser "Chicago" 195 Map of Jackson Park 198 Series of Tickets of Admission 202 Columbus Chariot Surmounting Entrance to the Lake . 203 View of the Opening Ceremonies 207 An Artistic Exhibit in Manufactures Building 225 Christopher Columbus 230 Figure on Bridge over the Lagoon 232 Medal Presented to the Designers of the Exposition Buildings 234 Edison's Phonograph 244 Statue of the Republic . , 247 The Rolling Chair 251 Equestrian Statue in the Agricultural Pavilion 256 Group on the Agricultural Building 258 Group on the Agricultural Building . 261 The Horoscope Group on the Agricultural Building 263 A Beer Pavilion in Agricultural Building 265 Statue of Plenty 267 xx LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGB Replica of the Old Mill 268 Ornamental Vase and Flowers 273 Group of Palm Trees . 275 Folding Flower Stand and Fernery 277 Statue of Art 297 Reception in the Art Palace 299 Statue of Music 301 Group of Decoration on Woman's Building 310 Group of Decoration on Woman's Building 312 Model of a Leper's Home 328 The Souvenir Quarter of a Dollar 332 Meeting at the Opening of the Woman's Congress 334 Band Concert on Administration Plaza 345 Columbian Guards 346 Exhibit of Tobacco 349 Figure Symbolizing Transportation 374 Locomotive "John Bull" and Railroad Train 378 Models of War Vessels Transportation Building 384 Statue Representing Capital Mines and Mining Building 390 Missouri's Mineral Pavilion Mines and Mining Building 396 California Pavilion in the Mines Building 399 Massachusetts State Building 404 Rhode Island State Building 407 New Hampshire State Building 408 Maine State Building 409 Vermont State Building 412 Connecticut State Building 413 Pennsylvania State Building 414 Old Bell of Independence Hall 416 New Jersey State Building 419 New York State Building 421 Delaware State Building 423 Maryland State Building 425 Florida State Building 428 Texas State Building 430 Virginia State Building 431 West Virginia State Building 435 Illinois State Building 439 The Dancers Decoration in Illinois Building 441 The Drama Decoration in Illinois Building 441 Ohio State Building j\^ Michigan State Building 447 Indiana State Building 453 Missouri State Building 455 Kansas State Building , 457 Iowa State Building 463 Nebraska State Building 465 Wisconsin State Building 467 Wisconsin Mineral Exhibit . f . . . 468 Minnesota State Building 470 Colorado State Building 474 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xxi PAGE North Dakota State Building 477 South Dakota State Building 478 Wyoming State Building 479 Idaho State Building 480 Washington State Building 483 Montana State Building 484 California State Building 486 Territorial Building 487 Utah Building 488 Walker Fearn Chief of Foreign Exhibits 491 Victoria House 495 Elizabethan Fireplace Victoria House 496 Central Court of East Indian Pavilion 501 British Guiana's Exhibit 504 Germany's Building 508 The Germania Group of Decoration , , 513 Krupp's Great Cannon on its Way to the Exposition '-517 Statue of a Great Norman Draught Horse 526 Convent of Santa Maria de La Rabida 540 The Rolling-Chair Stand 544 Monument to Columbus at Genoa 550 The Infanta Eulalia of Spain 553 The Columbus Statue 556 Grand Rotunda of the World's Fair Terminal Station 561 Norway's Building 565 Norsemen Marching to Festival Hall 566 The Swedish Building 571 The Columbian Tower 575 Address of Welcome 577 Japanese Building 584 Japanese Tea House 586 Columbus Monument in Mexico 594 Venezuela Building 598 Guatemala Building 601 Forestry Building 605 Brazil's Pavilion in the Forestry Building 608 Venetian Gondolas at Jackson Park 611 Hunter's Cabin on Wooded Island 612 Children's Building at the World's Fair 617 In the Babies' Room 619 A Corner of the Nursery 622 United States Battle-Ship " Illinois " 627 The Great Ferris Wheel 652 View in Midway Plaisance 654 The Irish Village 656 View in Midway Plaisance 658 German Village in Midway Plaisance 660 Some Old German Figures . . * 662 View in Midway Plaisance 664 Entrance to Old Vienna Midway Plaisance 666 L.ibby Glass Company's Building 667 xxii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGB New England Ceremony of Hanging the Crane 672 Joss and his Supporters 677 Festivities in the Chinese Joss House 679 Chinese Theatre and Joss House 680 View in Midway Plaisance 682 Dedicating the Turkish Mosque ... 686 An Egyptian Mosque . 688 The Crystal Palace London Exhibition, 1851 692 Interior View of the Transept of Crystal Palace 694 Crystal Palace New York Exhibition, 1853 . . 696 Palace of Industry Paris Exhibition, 1855 698 London Exhibition, 1862 700 Paris Exposition Building and Grounds, 1867 702 Grand Vestibule of the Paris Exhibition Building, 1867 703 Entrance to the Paris Exhibition, 1867 705 Rotunda of the Vienna Exposition Building, 1873 78 Central Dome of the Vienna Exposition Building, 1873 710 Bird's-Eye View of Centennial Grounds, International Exhibition, Philadelphia 712 View of the Main Building of the Centennial Exhibition 714 Obverse of Centennial Medal 715 Reverse of Centennial Medal 715 Memorial Hall, Centennial Exhibition, Philadelphia 716 The Eiffel Tower .718 Story of Chicago. CHAPTER I. From a Log Hut to a Metropolis. SIXTY years ago the spot where Chicago now stands was a marsh. No one would then have dreamed that to-day 3 great city of more than a million people would stand 01 the southwest shore of Lake Michigan, and that hei "i would be located the grandest Exposition the world has ever seen. Then a few Indian trails crossed the moorland ; to-day there are wide streets and boulevards, immense buildings devoted to business, and palatial residences which have all the requirements of wealth and refinement. Chicago has grown as by magic, and no other city has made such rapid strides. It has added to its glory by the vast preparations made for celebrating the four hundredth anniversary of the discovery of America by Columbus. The early history of Chicago and the surrounding country is quite as interesting as that of any other part of the United States. Here was the home of famous Indian tribes, and their strug- gles with the white settlers form a thrilling story which will never cease to be read. Jacques Marquette was a celebrated French missionary and discoverer. He travelled and labored several years in Canada and in other parts of North America. Louis Joliet was another French traveller and one of 2 17 18 FROM A LOG HUT TO A METROPOLIS. the first white men that explored the Mississippi River. In 1673 Father Marquette and Joliet conducted a small exploring party from Quebec. Entering the great Mississippi River at the mouth of the Wisconsin, they descended in canoes nearly to the mouth of the Arkansas, They were prevented from pursuing the voyage by reports that the river below was infested by armed savages, and they returned in canoes to the mouth of the Illinois, which they ascended. These and other missionaries, in letters and records, often speak of the " Checagua River," but they do not speak of any fort, cabin, or habitation of any description on the spot where Chicago now stands. For a long time the wilderness of the great Northwest remained unex- plored. An interesting character, however, appeared upon the scene in the spring of 1779. He was from the Island of San Domingo, and was said to have been a slave named Baptiste Point de Sable. There were French settlements at this time in Louisiana, and from these Point de Sable visited the shores of Lake Michigan for the purpose of carrying on a trade in furs. His rude log hut was the first building on the shore of the lake, and was the beginning of our great Western Metropolis. This has led to the humorous remark that " the first white settler of Chicago was a black man." Indians and Trappers. Our government was anxious then, as it always has been, to obtain lands from the Indians by treaty or otherwise. The trade in furs rend- ered it desirable that the Indians should " move on " and leave the trap- pers to pursue their avocation in peace. By the treaty made with the Indians in August, 1795, " six miles square at the mouth of the Chicago River" were ceded to the United States. The locality is described as the place where an old fort stood. No tradition or recollection of this, how- ever, existed among the Indians at that time. If any such building ever stood there it must have been a rude structure for the storing of provisions, and no traces of it remained when the treaty was formed. Point de Sable lived in his log cabin for seventeen years, and in 1796 sold out his business to a Frenchman named Le Mai, and soon afterward died at Peoria. Le Mai became an important personage, pushed the fur busi- ness with remarkable energy, attracted other traders to the locality, and soon there was a settlement on the present site of Chicago. The next chapter in this early history relates to Fort Dearborn, the tragic story of which shows the sacrifices made by the settlers and the dangers they encountered. FROM A LOG HUT TO A METROPOLIS. 19 " The fort," says A. T. Andrews, in his " History of Early Chicago," "stood on the south side of the Chicago River, where the stream turned to enter the lake. It had two block-houses, one on the southwest corner, the other on the northwest. On the north side a subterranean passage led from the parade ground to the river, designed as a way of escape in case of emergency or for supplying the garrison with water in time of siege. The whole was inclosed by a strong palisade of wooden pickets. At the west of the fort and fronting north on the river was a two-story log building, covered with split oak siding. This was the United States FORT DEARBORN. agency house. On the shores of the river, between the fort and the agency, were the root-houses, or cellars of the garrison. The ground on the south side was inclosed and cultivated as a garden. Three pieces of light artillery comprised the commandment of the fort." The builder and first commander of Fort Dearborn was Captain John Whistler. He was an excellent officer, and under his command, which lasted for seven years, the little garrison was undisturbed. Gradually, American settlers were drawn to the place and the French element disap- peared. Fort Dearborn was fast becoming an important trading post. To maintain it was considered a risky undertaking, for the reason that it 20 FROM A LOG HUT TO A METROPOLIS. was far removed from the borders of civilization, and its safety depended upon the friendship of the Illinois and Pottawatomie Indians. The first family to settle in Chicago was that of John Kinzie, who came from St. Joseph, across the lake, while the fort was being built in 1803. He took up his residence with Le Mai, the prosperous trader, and has been styled the " Father of Chicago." He was a valuable man in a new settlement. His business was that of silversmith, but having been a trader for a number of years, he was well acquainted with the Indian tribes, and was so familiar with their dialects that he could act as interpreter between them and the English. In the little settlement were all the phases of social life found in larger places; there were tea- parties, dances and weddings. Life upon the frontier was .romantic, and the little hamlet had its social events and happenings as if it were the capital of an empire. Captain Whistler was succeeded in iSioby Captain Nathan Heald, who was born in New Hampshire in 1/75. His wife, Rebecca, was a native of Kentucky, and. the daughter of Captain Samuel Wells, the famous Indian fighter. Soon after he took command of the fort, our country was involved in the second war with Great Britain. The Indians around Chicago, who had hitherto been friendly, began to show a restless spirit, and it was not long before startling news came of a dreadful massacre at Fort Dearborn. Many tribes that had before shown no hostility to the United States went over to the English. Battle of " Tippecanoe." The brave and powerful Indian chief, Tecumseh, was the principal leader in stirring up strife. He visited all the tribes south and west of Chicago, appeared in their councils, made eloquent speeches, inflamed the bloodthirsty warriors, and planned a general slaughter of all the white settlers in the vicinity. It will be remembered that the name of Tecumseh comes out prominently in the battle of the Thames, or, as it is sometimes called, the battle of " Tippecanoe," and that in this bloody contest William Henry Harrison, afterward President of the United States, achieved the proud distinction which helped to make him a can- didate for the highest position in the gift of the nation. This able and daring commander showed himself competent to deal with the hostiles, and by his good generalship and great courage soon settled the Indian question. As Fort Dearborn was far removed from civilization it was in constant danger. On the 5th of August, 1812, Captain Heald received a dis- patch from General Hull, then in command at Detroit, ordering him to FROM A LOG HUT TO A METROPOLIS. 21 evacuate the fort and proceed with his forces to Detroit. Captain Heald, who was a very brave officer, was unwilling to abandon his position before any effort had been made to hold it. He relied also upon the friendship of the Pottawatomies, who promised him a safe escort when- ever he wished to leave. Under these circumstances it is not surprising that he raised decided objections to abandoning his position. It would doubtless have been better if he had acted at once instead of delaying his departure six days. The fort, although comparatively defenceless, had remained so long without being attacked by any foe that he doubt- less underestimated the danger that threatened him. Sixty-six soldiers comprised the garrison, a mere handful compared with the number of savages, who were watching their opportunity. A small number of resi- CHICAGO, IN 1812. MAP OF CHICAGO IN I 8 12. dents had their houses in the vicinity of the fort, among whom was the leading citizen, John Kinzie. Five women dwelt inside the fort ; these were the wives of Captain Heald and Sargeant Holt, the wife of a French trader, her sister, and the wife of a soldier. When the news came of the second war with England, which was unknown before the order of General Hull to evacuate the fort, there was consternation among the settlers and the garrison. On the I2th ot August a council of Pottawatomies was called by order of Captain Heald, and he and Mr. Kinzie met the Indians outside the palisades. 22 FROM A LOG HUT TO A METROPOLIS. At this interview certain promises were made to the Indians. The sur- plus supplies of the garrison were to be distributed among them, includ- ing arms and ammunition, also a gift of money. The council broke up with apparent satisfaction to all parties concerned. Soon the Indians heard, through the wily Tecumseh, that the Americans had suffered defeat in some important engagements with the British, and they were told that the time had come to rise in their wrath, avenge the wrongs they had suffered, and drive the white people forever from their hunting grounds. The effect of this was electric, and the slumbering hostility of the red man burst into a lurid flame. Captain Heald had committed the great mistake of promising to dis- tribute the surplus arms and ammunition, and knew if he kept his prom- ise he would be in a poor condition to defend the fort. He therefore resolved to distribute the provisions only, and destroy the arms and ammunition in order that they might not fall into the hands of the enemy. The secret, however, leaked out, for as the Indians were prowling about they discovered in an old well, and other hiding-places, canteens, flint- locks, powder-flasks, and broken muskets. They were not long in guess- ing what had taken place, and rinding that Captain Heald had broken his part of the agreement they were greatly enraged. They considered themselves victims of the white man's treachery. Nothing now remained but a bloody combat, and it was certain that this would come sooner or later, and would be attended with loss of life. Remarkable Speech of an Indian Chief. The Chief, Black Partridge, who had always been very friendly with the settlers now turned to a bitter foe. He had received a medal pre- sented to him by Gen. Wayne when the treaty was signed which deeded Chicago to the government. In a very dignified way he returned the medal to Captain Heald with these words : " My young men say that they have been betrayed. You have destroyed the arms and ammuni- tion which you promised to leave here for us. My braves are resolved upon taking your lives. I cannot restrain them. I return you the token of peace, for I will not wear it while I am compelled to act as an enemy." This was nothing less than a declaration of war. The situ- ation of Fort Dearborn and its occupants was critical in the extreme. Captain Wells, a brother of Mrs. Heald, was Indian Agent at Fort Wayne. He understood well the Indian character, for he had lived among the Miamis, by whom he was stolen when he was a lad twelve years old. He grew up with this tribe, saw many examples of Indian cunning and heroism, and had even joined the Indians in some of their FROM A LOG HUT TO A METROPOLIS. 23 attacks upon the white settlers. The famous chief of the Miamis, Little Turtle, adopted him as an own son, and we have in the history of this man an instance of the romance of Indian life, and at the same time an example of the permanent character of early teachings and associations. One might say he grew up an Indian and still was a white man. He had been for years in captivity, but at the proper time his love for his own kindred caused him to seek the welfare of the white settlers and to espouse their cause. On the evening of the 1 3th of August, Captain Wells arrived at the fort, bringing with him thirty friendly Miamis. The great question now was how to escape. There was no hope for the garrison except by a sudden departure, and this bold move was speedily deter- mined upon. Prep- arations were made to carry it out, with the perfect under- standing that it would possibly result in the death of the entire com- mand. The fam- ily of John Kinzie was left in charge of some friendly Indians, and he resolved to accom- pany the troops in the hope that hav- ing great influence with the Indians he would be able to -prevent an attack. The garrison left the fort on the morning of the I5th. A strange premonition of their impending doom cast a gloom over the entire company. Before they marched out of the fort the band played the " Dead March." Outside was the trackless forest, filled with lurking foes ; far beyond was the destination of the garrison, and not one of them expected to reach it alive. Captain Wells, with his little band, led the way, and it is said had blackened his face in token of his impending fate. The reader may well pause here before the thrilling scene and learn at what a cost the early pioneers pur- GENERAL ANTHONY WAYNE. FROM A LOG HUT TO A METROPOLIS. 25 chased the territory which now waves with golden harvests and lifts toward heaven the spires of its busy cities. The lurking foe was not far distant ; as the garrison moved southward along the shore of the lake five hundred Indians lay in ambush over a ridge but a short distance away. Their scouts had brought them news of what was going on, and having been betrayed as they believed, and having declared war, they were ready for the massacre. The troops had not proceeded more than a mile and a half from the fort before they were attacked. What was a mere handful of men, though brave as lions, when confronted by such overwhelming odds ? The battle was not a long one. It was short, sharp and bloody. The troops believed that to surrender meant death, and having nothing to hope for they fought with desperation. Inhuman Butchery. While the battle was in progress one of the most dastardly and inhu- man deeds ever recorded was committed by a young Indian. Twelve defenceless children were among the occupants in the fort, and these were brought out with the garrison and placed in a wagon by themselves in the hope that their lives at least might be spared. The young Indian leaped into the wagon and tomahawked every one of them. Brutal savagery of Indian warfare had done its worst. Right and left on every side the troops were slain. Captain Wells, who fought with such bravery as might have been expected from a man who knew his last hour was at hand, at last fell, and his body was cut to pieces. Captain Heald was wounded early in the fight, but with a few of his men succeeded in gaining a little knoll, there made a stand and sent a half-breed boy to Chief Blackbird with an offer to surrender on condition that their lives were spared. Savage ferocity was partially satisfied, and the terrible scenes of the massacre were over. This struggle occurred on the very spot where some of the streets of Chicago intersect one another to-day. It is related that at the beginning of the massacre the Miamis who were led by Captain Wells fled for their lives, while the Captain started for the tent where the Indians had left their squaws and children, pursued closely by the Pottawatomies. Daring Deeds of "Women. " He laid himself flat on the neck of his horse, loading and firing in that position, as he would occasionally turn on his pursuers. At length his horse was killed under him, and he was seriously wounded. While a couple of friendly Indians were trying to drag him to a place of safety he was stabbed in the back and killed. It is said the Indians took out 28 FROM A LOG HUT TO A METROPOLIS. and Mr. Astor was laying the foundations of the fortune, which has made his family one of the wealthiest in the world. Only once a year did the Government send provisions and other nec- essary supplies to the fort. These were brought in a small schooner. On Mr. Hubbard's arrival in 1818 he found only two families at Chicago besides the troops. The residents were Mr. John Kinzie, on the north side of the river on a line with what is now Michigan Avenue, and the family of a French trader who had married an Indian woman and lived but a short distance from Mr. Kinzie. It was not until 1823 that another white family made its appearance. The new resident was Archibald Claybourne, who lived in Chicago continuously until his death in 1872. His business was that of butcher for the fort. Thus in i827,when Chicago was visited by Major Long, on a Govern- ment exploring expedition, the residents comprised only three families. Major Long was very unfavorably impressed with the place and so reported to the Government. Like all others at this early period he failed to foresee the importance of the point, and had no thought that here would one day stand the greatest city in the West. He said in his reports that Chicago presented no cheering prospects, and " contained but a few huts inhabited by a miser- able race of men scarcely equal to the Indians from whom they had descended, while" their "houses were low, not the least trace of corn- affording no inducement to COAT OF ARMS OF ILLINOIS. as filthy, and disgusting, displaying fort." He spoke of the place the settler, " the whole amount of trade on the lake not exceeding the cargoes of five or six schooners, even at the time when the garrison received its supplies from the Macinac." This gloomy picture stands to-day in striking contrast with the changes which have been wrought by a few brief years. Our country's marvelous growth has been the wonder of the world, and in no locality has it been more clearly seen than in the vicinity of Chicago. Special mention should be made of the important part enacted by John Kinzie, whose old log house stood for many years unmolested by the Indians. It was free from the attacks made upon homes of other settlers, and its occupants seemed to have a special exemption from the bloody raids inflicted upon other residents, and accompanied by the des- truction of life and property. This shows plainly the esteem in which FROM A LOG HUT TO A METROPOLIS. 29 the silversmith was held by the savages. During the year of his death, which occurred in 1828, the Pottawatomies made a treaty with the gov- ernment and inserted a provision which gave to Eleanor Kinzie, and her four children by the late John Kinzie, $3,500, in consideration of the attachment of the Indians to her deceased husband. Meanwhile the settlement grew after Kinzie's death. Some of the more powerful Indian tribes had been swept away, their wigwams had been burned, their villages were blotted out, the smoke of their council MAP MADE IN 1830, SHOWING MOUTH OF CHICAGO RIVER WITH PIERS FOR IMPROVING THE HARBOR. fires no longer ascended, the forests were turned into fruitful farms, prairies gave signs of a new life, and new dwellings and villages sprang up in all directions. The Indians pursued the policy of peace ; their chiefs visited the fort and by the firesides of former acquaintances talked over the tragedies in which they had been equal sufferers with the white settlers. Among these warriors was Black Partridge, whose name at one time was 80 FROM A LOG HUT TO A METROPOLIS. a tower of strength, but who now was a sad and broken-hearted old man. The tide of emigration flowed strongly towards the West. A Homestead Act was passed by the government which invited settlers from far and near. The State of Illinois was admitted into the Union in 1818. Ever since it has been a very prosperous state, and its rich lands have yielded abundant reward to those who have tilled them. During all the time, Chicago was becoming more important as a centre of trade and business. In short its growth has been like that of all our western towns, situated upon navigable waters with fertile sections of country lying back of them. It is interesting to mark the rapid changes which have taken place. The first log cabin gave way to a more costly and congenial resi CHICAGO IN 1833. dence. Farms were pushed farther and farther into the wilderness, villages with schools, churches, stores and public libraries sprang up, and our country, which but a little time ago was uncivilized and uninhabited by white men, has taken its high rank among the nations of the earth, largely through the toils and sacrifices, the energy and thrift of the sturdy race that has been constantly planting itself along our frontiers. From time to time public improvements were sanctioned, among which in 1829 was the Illinois and Michigan Canal. In 1831 the County of Cook was organized and Chicago was made the county seat. The town was incorporated in 1833 with twenty-eight voters. Its first trustees were:^ T. J. V. Owen, George W. Dole, Madore B. Beaubien, John Miller and I-:. S. Kimberly. Four years later when the first census was FROM A LOG HUT TO A METROPOLIS. 31 taken there was a population of 4,170. This included '140 sailors belong- ing to vessels owned by residents of the place. Thus early do we discover the rapid growth which has always distinguished Chicago, and we also see that it was fast becoming a place of commercial importance. This history is darkened all along by border warfare, the Indians resisting every attempt to displace them. Blacfe Hawk was a famous chief of the Sac and Fox Indians and was born in 1767. He joined the British in 1812 and, opposing the removal west of his tribe, fought against the United States in 1832. This is known as the year of the Black Hawk War, the year that General Scott's army arrived, bringing with it that terrible scourge, the Asiatic chol- era, which was its first appearance in America. In Hurlbut's work en- titled, " Chicago and its Antiquities," we find this statement : " It will be proper to say that the spring of that year had not passed without finding Chicago in a condition of unusual excitement. Several murders had been com- mitted by Indians (tli2 Sauks, from the west side of the Mississippi) amon j the whites of Northern Illinois, and the scat- tered settlers had flocked in from various locali- ties to Fort Dearborn, BLACK HAWK. which they believed to be the only place of available security. No United States soldiers had occupied the Fort during the past winter, and Chicago, it is said, numbered then only about fifty residents. But the dangers and alarms referred to had sent in a crowd of refugees, and the forepart of the month of May found Fort Dearborn peopled with some six or seven hundred persons. But Illinois and Michigan troops, organized for protection against the foe, and General Scott, who arrived in the month of July with U. S. soldiers, though his force was more than 82 FROM A LOG HUT TO A METROPOLIS. decimated by the cholera, marched after the red-skins, and the settlers returned to their homes on the prairie." An early comer tells of a cholera incident of 1833 as related to him by a sergeant in Fort Dearborn whose name was Carpenter. It was after General Scott's arrival and the stricken troops were fast dying with the dreadful disease. Sergeant Carpenter was on duty one morning when two soldiers apparently dead were ordered to be taken out and thrown into the dead-pit. This grave or pit was a large excavation near Wabash Avenue, not far from the river. The stretchers were brought and the bodies were taken out to the hole and one of them thrown in. When they moved towards the other to put him in, the man turned his head and shoulders showing plainly that he was alive. The sergeant gave utterance to the sensible remark, " This man is not ready to be buried yet," and ordered him to be taken back. The fresh air had revived him and given to the supposed dead man a new lease of life, for he afterwards recovered. The troops were permanently withdrawn from Fort Dearborn, Decem- ber 29, 1836; the military post was forever abandoned and the stirring events connected with it passed into history. The last drum had been beaten, the last bugle blast had been blown, the last gun had been fired, and the famous old fort was no longer to be associated with frontier war- fare. A great City was struggling for existence on this historic spot. A Mail Once in Two Weeks. With the tons of mail matter now emptied into Chicago every week, it seems almost beyond belief that sixty years ago the place was without a post office, and no mail matter was received except once in two weeks, when it was brought by a half-breed Indian from Niles, Michigan. The year 1833 is memorable from the fact that the first newspaper was then established, to which was given the name of the " Chicago Democrat." Looking at its columns now we find descriptions of bear and wolf hunts which took place within the limits of the town. One would have to travel hundreds of miles now to find any such sport as that which was obtained by the early settlers at their very doors. Work at this time was going on in the construction of the Illinois and Michigan Canal and the necessity of pushing it forward was urged in the columns of the news- paper. The arrival of a schooner was so important an event that it was duly chronicled. Special mention is made of the fact that during 1834 a schooner arrived every week from Lake Frie and was unloaded outside the bar, but a freshet swept away the bar that had prevented vessels from FROM A LOG HUT TO A METROPOLIS. 33 entering the mouth of the river and the schooner " Illinois " sailed up into the town. This was the little pioneer which led the way for hund- reds of vessels that now arrive every year. The Northern lakes are alive with craft sailing either to or from Chicago. Even before this time the various religious denominations had made their appearance. It has been already stated that the first white man to visit the locality was a Jesuit missionary, and as soon as a resident population was planted the religious sects began to build their houses of worship. So that in 1834 the Catholic, Baptist, Methodist and Presby- terian churches were all represented. One of the chief occurrences GREEN TREE HOUSE, THE FIRST HOTEL BUILT IN CHICAGO. during the year 1836 was the building and launching of a ship. In addi- tion to this, steps were taken to incorporate Chicago as a city. It is interesting to observe that at this early period speculation in real estate made men as crazy as it has at any time within recent years. Large transactions were carried on, sudden sales were made, men grew rich with startling rapidity, and there were times when the business por- tion of the town was greatly excited over the rise in building lots and the opportunities thus afforded for making sudden fortunes. There came a panic in 1837 and the " boom " collapsed. The prosperty of the place appeared to be checked for the time being, but there was no loss in the end, as false business methods were corrected, the weak places 34 FROM A LOG HUT TO A METROPOLIS. were found out and strengthened, and, instead of trusting to fictitious values, the commercial transactions of the city were placed upon a sub- stantial and better basis. The vast increase in Chicago real estate is shown from the fact that in 1832 two lots which were worth $102.00 sold in 1853 for $108,000. During this latter year the Kinzies sold a plot of ground for $540,000, which in 1832 was valued at $346. Probably no such rise in the value of property has ever been recorded in any other city of the United States. Chicago continued to grow and enjoyed unexampled prosperity until the year 1849, when it was visited by a disastrous flood. It will be seen that the place was not exempt from those great and sudden freshets which are common in the Ohio and Mississippi Valleys. In the South Branch of the Chicago River an ice gorge had been formed. This was suddenly broken up by an overflow in the Desplaines River. With irre- sistible force the great mass swept onward toward the lake. The only bridge the city had at this time was carried away, and more than forty vessels that had win'cred in the lake were crushed and totally wrecked. CHAPTER II. Rapid Growth of Chicago and the Great Fire of 1871. NO man can go into an uninhabited territory, drive down stakes, mark out streets, and say," Here- is to be a great city." Such manufactured towns generally prove to be failures. Cities spring up and grow where they will, and the laws that govern their rise and progress are not in any one man's mind, nor are they written among the statutes of state legislatures. Often it has happened that the site on which a metropolis was expected to stand has been over- grown with weeds, the dreams of land speculators have vanished into empty air ; and on the other hand, the log cabin and the little village of which no one took account, have multiplied and grown until they have developed into towns of immense wealth and vast population. The first houses of Chicago had very insecure foundations. They were built on piles ; they were houses on stilts, as it were ; they were without cellars, for the reason that the ground was swampy. The low marshland had to be conquered and drained before any buildings could be erected with basements or secure foundations. In those early days it was nothing unusual while passing along the miry streets to see a post erected with the inscription on it, " No bottom here." Along the roadside might frequently be seen stagnant pools of water and ditches whose depth was very suspicious. Then came the era of plank walks and roads, but when heavy rains flooded the district the whole place was turned into a quagmire, teams and loaded vehicles were often stuck in the mud, and no one would at that time have imagined that the marsh could ever be utilized as it has been for the foundation of substantial buildings. What was called "canal cholera "was prevalent, malaria was common, and life was a constant fight against diseases which were developed by the peculiar surroundings, which were a constant menace to settlers. A Troublesome Sand-Bar. The great obstacle to a commodious harbor was the sand-bar which closed up the mouth of the Chicago River. There were times of low water in the lake when none flowed over this bar. Ships were compelled to anchor outside and unload as quickly as possible, for if a storm were to sweep down the lake they would be driven on the shore. 35 36 RAPID GROWTH OF CHICAGO AND THE GREAT FIRE. At a very early period remonstrances were made to the government agai'nst allowing this bar to remain, one having been sent by an Indian agent in 1 805 , urging the opening of the mouth of the river so as to allow the vessels to come in from the lake. This lack of harbor facilities was a problem which puzzled the inhabitants of Chicago, and for many years their efforts to induce the government to take some action were unvail- ing. Finally, in 1833, Congress did appropriate $2 5,000 for the improve- ment of the harbor, and the work was immediately commenced. By degrees the sand-bar was removed, but the great lake rolling in its waters was a stubborn thing to resist, for as soon as one bar was removed others began forming farther out. Up to 1844 about $250,000 had been expended, yet with very little practical benefit to the city. In 1846 a proposition for a new appropriation was made in Congress, was strongly advocated by Daniel Webster, and was passed, but was vetoed by President Polk. The unexpected opposition of the President produced great excitement among all classes of citizens. The People Up In Arms. This action of Congress was bitterly resented in the northwest, and the incident is interesting as showing the resolute spirit which even at that time animated the people of Chicago. The improvements in their harbor became almost a national question, and they determined to carry their point. A great River and Harbor Convention was held on the 5th of July, 1847, at which delegates were present from all parts of the coun- try, as if it were important to the whole United States that the little town on the shore of Lake Michigan should have a harbor. The broader question was that of internal improvements and the policy of the government respecting them. Twenty thousand people assembled on this occasion and the convention lasted for three days. A very strong demand was embodied in the resolutions which were forwarded to Con- gress, yet, although the younger states of the West were unanimous in their demand, no additional appropriation was made for harbor improve- ments until 1852. Since 1866 repeated appropriations have been made and the liberal policy of the government has been a great commercial advantage to many of our inland cities. The enterprising people of Chicago did not wait for relief to come from Washington, but began at once to carry out as far as they could the object in view. They provided for the dredging of the river, the widening of it in several places, and the building of wharves, which at the present time have a length of not less than fifteen miles. All the labor and money expended must be considered as well invested, for X RAPID GROWTH OF CHICAGO AND THE GREAT FIRE. 37 Chicago has a harbor which affords ample accommodations for ships in stormy weather. These improvements have been a great commercial advantage and one secret of the rapid growth of the city. As already stated, in 1837 the population was a little over 4,000; in eleven years from that time it had grown to 20,000, while in the next seventeen years it increased to 178,000, this being the number in 1865. The great civil war having ended, Chicago started on a new career of prosperity, and since has shown such rapid strides as almost to defy computation. How to Keep the City Clean. Another problem, and one concerning very materially the health of the city, was the matter of sewage. For a long time this was emptied into the river, the filthy condition of which became more abominable as the population increased. Stagnant water black, oily and breeding disease threatened continually the health and well-being of the town. The fish could not live in the water ; the stench in the summer season was outrageous, and it became evident that something must be done. The only way to remedy the evil was to deepen the Canal in order to bring a flow of water from this and the Chicago River into the Illinois River. The city began this work in 1865 and completed it in 1871, just before the great fire broke out. No sooner were the conditions of health made favorable than the ter- rible calamity occurred which destroyed almost untold millions of prop- erty. While it is true that scarcely ever did a city suffer more from misfortunes of one kind or another, it is equally true that no other has ever shown greater ability to overcome them. Chicago is not only a marvel of growth, but of energy and enterprise. Its schemes are broad and great like the vast country around it and the immense lakes which feed its commerce. A Growth Hard to Account For. This rapid sketch showing the rise and growth of the Metropolis of the West recalls the language of Mr. Parton, who, in speaking of the influx of population, says : " The motive must have been powerful which could induce such large numbers of people to settle upon that most uninviting shore. A new town on a flat prairie, as seen from car windows, has usually the aspect which is described as God-forsaken. Wagon-w heels had obliterated the only beauty the prairie ever had, and streaked it wi:h an excellent article of blacking. There may have been twenty little wooden houses in the place ; but it is ' laid out ' with all the rigor of mathematics ; and every 38 RAPID GROWTH OF CHICAGO AND THE GREAT FIRE, visible object, whether animate or inanimate the pigs that root In the soft, black, prairie mire, the boys, the horses, the wagons, the houses, the fences, the school- houses, the steps of the stores, the railroad platform, are all powdered or plastered with disturbed prairies. If, filled with compassion for the unhappy beings whom stern fate seems to have cast out upon that dismal plain, far from the abodes of men, the traveller enters into conversation with them, he finds them all hope and animation, and disposed to pity him because he neither owns any corner lots in that future metropolis, nor has intellect enough to see what a speculation it would be to buy a few. What a pity ! You might; as well pity the Prince of Wales because he is not yet king." Mud and "Water. But, for all the hope and animation of the inhabitants, for many years, in all prairie towns it was shunned the most by those who were looking for the pleasant and the beautiful and no wonder, if there be any truth in the following quotation also from Mr. Parton : " The prairie on that part of the shore of Lake Michigan appears to the eye as flat as the lake itself, and its average height above the lake is about six feet. A gentleman, who arrived at Chicago from the South in 1833, reports that he waded the last eight miles of his journey in water from one to three feet deep a sheet of water extending as far as the eye would reach over what is now the most fashionable quarter of Chicago. Another traveler records that, in 1831, in riding about what is now the very center and heart of the business portion of the city, he often felt the water swashing through his stirrups. Even in dry summer weather that part of the prairie was very wet, and during the rainy season no one attempted to pass over it on foot. " I would not have given sixpence an acre for the whole of it," said a gentleman, speaking of land much of which is now held at one thousand dollars a foot. It looked so unprom- ising to farmers' eyes, that Chicago imported a considerable part of its provisions from the eastern shores of Lake Michigan as late as 1838. This Chicago now feeds States and Kingdoms.' The question has often been asked why the growth of Chicago was so rapid. We do not look for an inland city far away from the ocean front to show such a miracle of expansion. We can understand why New York has grown, and the same may be said of Boston, Baltimore, and other eastern cities. They have a water front which invites ships and cargoes from all parts of the world. They are also beginning to be venerable with age, and to-day they show the effects of a long period of commercial enterprise. RAPID GROWTH OF CHICAGO AND THE GREAT FIRE. C9 The harbor of New York is one of the finest in the world. A stranger sailing up the bay finds that all he has read and dreamed concerning our country's growth falls short of the reality, as standing on the deck of his ship he gazes out upon Long Island, Staten Island, the magnificent City of Brooklyn, the islands which dot the bay, the historic Hudson, rolling its waters and floating its vessels, and finally the splendid metropolis whose name and fame are world-wide. Out beyond the harbor is the Atlantic, and beyond the Atlantic are the old nations of the globe. New York is the child of the world's commerce and of its own natural advan- tages. It may also be said that Chicago never could have had such an unparalleled growth except for the commerce of the great lakes. The mineral and lumber regions of the North seem to have made a pet child of the city and have smiled upon it with constant favor. Something is doubtless due to the sturdy character and vigorous enterprise of the first settlers and those who followed them, but all the brain, genius, thrift and energy of the whole country could not build a great city on a site where there are no conditions of natural growth. Chicago is also the great market for a vast region lying south, west, and northwest. The vast prairies, with their harvests waving in the wind, are like the billows of a golden sea. Immense products of wheat, corn, and other cereals, are clamoring for a market. Away in the southwest are immense ranches where herds of cattle a million strong are getting ready to help supply the wants of half a world. Chicago affords the best facilities for passing on these products. Its great pork-packing estab- lishments have grown only as there was a demand. These have been the marvel of Europeans who have visited the place. Nothing to equal them can be found in either hemisphere. It is pretty certain that a large part of humanity pays little heed to the old command given to the Hebrews not to eat pork. The immense trade in this product is a source of large revenue and has added greatly to the wealth of the city. Thousands of Miles of Railroad. Along with this growth the great railway system which early began to center in Chicago has increased, the belts of steel have extended farther toward all points of the compass, the hiss of the steam has been con- stantly heard in new territories, along fertile valleys, over fruitful, rolling lands, until now the railroad facilities for transportation are unrivalled. Where there is growth, where all the signs of prosperity are discovered, capital is sure to flow in, and the "sinews of war " help on the rapid expansion. Not only has Chicago a direct and open waterway to the sea, but it is to-day the center of a country which supports 10,000,000 40 RAPID GROWTH OF CHICAGO AND THE GREAT FIRE. people. It has grown no more rapidly than the vast region around it, which twenty-five years ago was sparsely settled compared with what it is at the present time. Moreover, something is doubtless due to the climate of the place. Even a "Windy City" has its advantages, for the atmosphere is not likely to be dead and unhealthful, as it is in many tropical places. Whatever else may be said of the climate around the southern shore of Lake Michigan, it has a certain bracing vigor. Fresh breezes blow in from the LAKE STREET IN 1 8^0. lake during the summer months, and the winter season is milder than in many other parts of the West. There is a snap and go in the very atmos- phere. Health is braced up by it and energies which in a softer climate would be relaxed are here nerved for effort and endurance. These conditions are favorable for mental and physical labor. If dust at certain seasons flies through the streets and all the elements of nature seem to be wide-awake, in like manner men, too, are wide-wake and far removed from stagnation. Notwithstanding the location of the city, the swamp upon which it is built and the malaria which formerly troubled it, it is one of the healthiest cities in the world. RAPID GROWTH OF CHICAGO AND THE GREAT FIRE. 41 There are many advantages in a town which has its elevations and broken surfaces. Boston, for example, has its high points ; the Bos- tonian must know how to go up and down. Such a place has special advantages for getting rid of the sewage which, if not conducted freely, would become a breeder of disease. Yet some of the largest and healthiest cities in the world are built on i level sities. This is especially true of Philadelphia where the death rate is nearly as low as that of any other city in the country. Much, then, depends upon the way in which a town is built and the provisions made for the health and comfort of its inhabitants. For a long time the sewage question puzzled the people of Chicago, but knowing that the welfare and prosperity of the town were at stake, they grappled with the problem and found a satisfactory solution. The river, which at one time was ridiculed as being little better than a ditch, has been turned into a useful servant and made to work for the benefit of a million people. It forms a natural channel, and being divided into two branches, it is the outlet to a large extent of territory. Erection of Pumping Works. Formerly the river was very slow in its movements, and a plan was devised for quickening its current. Chicago is satisfied with nothing that is sluggish. Pumping works were built at Bridgeport and Fuller- ton Avenue. At the former of these, in the southwestern part of the city, the water is thrown out of the river into the Illinois and Michigan Canal at the rate of 40,000 cubic feet per minute. The other pumping station, in the northeastern part of the city, supplies fresh water in suffi- cient quantities to turn the current of the river from the lake. Improve- ments have been carried on in this system, and the recent construction of a gravity channel helps to cleanse the city and relieve it from all danger of any widespread epidemic. It is possible that in the near future, by the aid of the National Government, the canal will be made navigable from Lake Michigan to the Mississippi. A good deal of ingenuity has been displayed in furnishing the city with an ample supply of pure fresh water. Previous to the year 1854, water had been pumped out of the lake close to the shore. Water, however, next to the shore was polluted at this time by the filth from the city ; and the question was how to overcome and remedy the difficulty. A few piles were driven around the inlet at the pumping station " about close enough together," as one observes, "to exclude a young whale. The small fry of the finny tribes passed freely inward, and if they were lucky, they passed out again ; if unlucky, they were sucked up by the 42 RAPID GROWTH OF CHICAGO AND THE GREAT FIRE. pumps and driven into the pipes where they made their way into the faucets of private houses ; even the hot- water faucets, in which they came out cooked, and one's bath tub apt to be filled with what squeamish citizens called chowder." This was not considered a satisfactory method of procuring fish for breakfast. Humorous Statement of the Case. While the water supply was being agitated a racy article appeared in one of the daily journals gravely charging the people of Chicago with being cannibals and eating their ancestors. It asserted that as the ceme- tery was situated on the shore of the lake, the drainings from it flowed into tli2 water, fish were nourished by them, and these, having been pumped into the pipes, became the food of the living, who in this way were devouring the remains of the dead. This was exquisite sarcasm, but sarcasm is always a powerful weapon and proved to be in this case. Some genius suggested that a big tunnel might be run out a couple of miles in the lake, beyond the filthy water along the shore, and so a fresh and abundant supply of the pure article might be obtained. This was an undertaking unknown in the annals of engineering. Nothing like it had ever been attempted before, but the novelty of it was not suf- ficient to condemn it in the estimation of people who were not in the habit of clinging to a thing merely because it is old, or rejecting a plan merely because it is new. Chicago said : " Let the experiment be tried." It was tried and has proved a complete success. The water for the city is obtained a long distance from the shore, where it is perfectly pure, and by this device of Yankee ingenuity the great city is as well furnished with water as that of any other in the land. Thus it will be seen that Chicago has overcome its natural disadvan- tages and has removed the obstacles to its growth and success as a com- mercial centre. Its location, its water front, its thousands of miles of railroad, its bracing climate, its provision for health and comfort, its water supply, drawn from the great lake these are among the condi- tions which account for the city's unparalleled growth. It is useless to predict what the future has in store. The great West need not busy itself with dreams and visions ; it has enough to do to take care of realities. Whether Chicago will ever rival London, whether she will outstrip the great metropolis on the eastern coast, or become the largest city of the world, as some have predicted, is a question that may well be left to cranks and dreamers. It is enough to say that men are now living, who remember the place when it started with its twenty- eight voters. What the boy will see who draws his first breath to-day 44 RAPID GROWTH OF CHICAGO AND THE GREAT FIRE. from the lively air of the so-called " Windy City " no one can predict. No better proof of the unconquerable spirit and energy of Chicago could be afforded than was seen in. her recovery from the great fire in 1871, by which property valued at $190,000,000 was destroyed, accord- ing to the best estimates. An old woman's cow kicked over a lamp one day and 20,000 buildings vanished in smoke. The fire occurred on the night of October 8th, and it forms the most thrilling episode in the his- tory of Chicago. It is needless to say that the entire country was greatly excited by the event. The same maybe said of foreign countries, as was shown by their messages of sympathy and offers of assistance. The calamity proved that misfortune makes the whole world akin, and has for its compensation the sympathy and kindness which always hasten to the rescue. Tinder Boxes in Flames. The reader will be interested in the following vivid account of the fire taken from the work entitled " Chicago and the Great Conflagration," by Messrs. Colbert and Chamberlain : " There had been on the previous evening (that of Saturday, the /th of October,) an extensive conflagration, which the journals had recorded in many columns, devoting to it their most stunning head-lines, their most ponderous superlatives, and their most graphic powers of description. The location of this fire was in the West Division, between Clinton Street and the river, and running north from Van Buren Street, where it caught, to Adams Street, where, fortunately, it was checked rather by the lack of combustible material than by any ability of the fire department to obtain the mastery. The damage by this fire was nearly a million dollars. "A little' while after nine o'clock on Sunday evening the lamp was upset which was to kindle the funeral pyre of Chicago's pristine splendor. The little stable, with its contents of hay, was soon ablaze. By the time the alarm could be sounded at the box several blocks away, two or three other little buildings tinder boxes to the leeward had been ignited, and in five minutes the poor purlieu in the vicinity of De Koven and Jefferson streets was blazing like a huge bonfire. " The first vault across the river was made at midnight from Van Buren Street, lighting in a building of the South Division Gas Works on Adams Street. This germ of the main fire was not suppressed, and from that moment the doom of the commercial quarter was sealed, though no man could have foretold that the raging element would make such complete havoc of the proudest and strongest structures in that quarter. The axis of the column as it had progressed from the starting point in the southwestern purlieu had varied hardly a point from due RAPID GROWTH OF CHICAGO AND THE GREAT FIRE. 45 northeast. Having gained a foothold upon the South Division, its march naturally lay through two or three blocks of pine rookeries, known as ' Conley's Patch,' and so on for a considerable space through the abodes of squalor and vice. "Through these it set out at double-quick, the main column being flanked by another on each side and nearly an hour to the rear. That at the right was generated by a separate brand from the western burn- ing ; that at the left was probably created by some of the eddies, which were by this time whirling through the streets toward the flame below and from it above. The rookeries were quickly disposed of. Beyond them, however, along La Salle Street, was a splendid double row of 'fire- proof mercantile buildings, the superior of which did not exist in the land. It was supposed they would resist the march of the flames. Public Buildings Reduced to Ashes. " One after another they went as the column advanced ; and the col- umn was spreading fearfully debouching to right and left, according as opportunities of conquest offered themselves. It was not long after one o'clock before the Chamber of Commerce was attacked and fell a prey to the advancing force. Soon the Court House was seized upon; but it did not surrender until near three o'clock, when the great bell went down, down, and pealed a farewell, dying groan as it went. The hundred and fifty prisoners in the basement story were released to save their lives. They evinced their gratitude by pillaging a jewelry store near by. " From the Court House the course of the main column seemed to tend eastward, and Hooley's Opera House, the Times building, and Crosby's fine Opera House (to have been reopened that very night) fell rapidly before it. Pursuing its way more slowly onward, the fiery invader laid waste some buildings to the northeast, and, preparatory to attacking the magnificent wholesale stores at the foot of Randolph Street, and the great Union Depot adjoining, joined forces with the other branch of the main column which had lingered to demolish the Sher- man House a grand seven-story edifice of marble the Tremont House, and the other fine buildings lying between Randolph and Lake Streets. " The left column had meantime diverged to pass down La Salle Street and attack all buildings lying to the west of that noble avenue the Oriental and Mercantile buildings, the Union Bank, the Merchants' Insurance building, where were General Sheridan's headquarters, arid the offices of the Western Union Telegraph, and, in fact, an unbroken row of the stone palaces of trade which had already made La Salle Street 46 RAPID GROWTH OF CHICAGO AND THE GREAT FIRE. a monument of Chicago's business architecture, to which her citizens pointed with glowing pride, and of which admiring visitors wrote and published warm panegyrics in all quarters of the globe. " The column of the left did its mission but too well, however, and by daylight scarcely a stone was left upon another in all that stately thor- oughfare. But one building was standing in this division of the city a large brick structure, with iron shutters, known as Lind's Block. This was saved by its isolated location, being on the shore of the river, and separated by an exceptionally wide street from the seething furnace, THE DAY AFTER THE FIRE. which consumed all else in its vicinity. Naturally this building was an object of great curiosity after the fire, and was visited by crowds of sight-seers. " The right column started from a point near the intersection of Van Buren Street and the river, where some wooden buildings were ignited by brands from the West Side, in spite of the efforts of the inhabitants of that quarter to save their homes by drenching their premises with water from their hydrants, and we need hardly add, in spite of the desultory though desperate efforts of the Fire Department. The right column had also the advantage of a large area of wooden buildings on RAPID GROWTH OF CHICAGO AND THE GREAT FIRE. 47 which to ration and arm itself for its march of destruction. Thus fed and equipped, it swept down upon the remaining portion of the best- built section of the town. It gutted the Michigan Southern Depot and the Grand Pacific Hotel, and the tornado soon made them shapeless ruins. It spared not the unfinished building of the Lakeside Publishing Company, which had already put on a very sightly front, and which had scarcely anything to burn but brick and stone. It licked up the fine new buildings on Dearborn Street near the Postoffice. " The Postoffice was seized upon and gutted like the rest, some two millions of treasure being destroyed in its vaults, which proved to have been of flimsy construction. It swept down upon the new Bigelow House fc a massive and elegant hotel which had never yet been occupied, and demolished that, together with the Honore Block, a magnificent new building, with massive walls, adorned with hundreds of stately colon- nades of marble. It reached out to the left, and took McVicker's new theatre in its grasp for a moment with the usual disastrous result. It assaulted the noble Tribune building, which the people had been declar- ing, even up to that terrible hour, would withstand all attacks, being furnished with all known safeguards against destruction by fire; but the enemy was wily as well as strong. It surrounded the fated structure and ruined it too. It threw a red-hot brick wall upon the building's weaker side, a shower of brands upon the roof, a subterranean fire under the sidewalk and into the basement, and an atmosphere of furnace heat all around. The March of a Conqueror. " It conquered and destroyed the Tribune building at half-past seven in the evening. It marched on and laid waste Booksellers' Row, the finest row of book stores in the world. It fell upon Potter Palmer's store of Massachusetts marble, for which Field, Leiter & Co., dry goods importers, were paying the owner $25,000 a year rent. This splendid building, with such of its contents as had not been removed in wagons, went like all the rest. It deployed to the right, in spite of its ally, the wind, and destroyed the spendid churches and residences which adorned the lower or town end of Wabash and Michigan Avenues. Among these were the First and Second Presbyterian Churches, Trinity (Episco- pal) Church, and the palatial row of residences known as 'Terrace Row.' Finally, its course southward was stayed at Congress Street by the blow- ing up of a building. The southern line of the fire was for the most part, however, along Harrison Street, which is one square further to the south. 48 RAPID GROWTH OF CHICAGO AND THE GREAT FIRE. " This is a brief sketch of the operations of the fire in the West and South Divisions. It effected a foothold in the North Division as early as half-past three in the morning ; and it is remarkable that almost the first building to be attacked on the north side of the river was the engine house of the Water-works ; as if the terrible marauder had, with deadly strategy, thrown out a swifter brand than all others to cut off the only reliance of his victims the water supply. The Water-works are nearly a mile from the point where the burning brands must have crossed the river. The denizens of the North Division were standing in their doors and gazing at the blazing splendor of the Court House dome, when they discovered, to their horror, that the fire was already raging behind them, and that the Water-works had gone. A general stampede to the sands of the Lake shore, or to the prairies west of the city, was the result. " Besides its foothold at the Water-works, from which the fire spread rapidly in every direction, it soon made a landing in two of the elevators near the river, and organized an advance which consumed everything left by the scores of separate irruptions which the flames were constantly making in unexpected places. This was the system by which the North Division was wiped out : blazing brands and scorching heat sent ahead to kindle many scattering fires, and the grand general conflagration fol- lowing and finishing up. Elegant Residences Consumed. " Within the limits shown upon the appended map nothing was spared ; not any of the elegant residences of the patricians not even those isolated by acres of pleasure grounds; not even the ' fire-proof Histori- cal Hall, with its thousand precious relics; not even the stone churches of the Rev. Robert Collyer and Mr. Chamberlain, protected by a park in front; not even the cemetery to the north, whither many people removed a few of their most necessary effects only to see them con- sumed before their eyes ; not even Lincoln Park, whose scattering oaks were burned to dismal pollards by the all-consuming flames nothing but one lone house, the Ogden residence, as the sole survivor of the scourged district. The loss of life and the sufferings of those who managed to escape with life were most severe in this quarter of the city. They will be long remembered by all our people, the human element of the tragedy having been purposely omitted from this as far as practicable. Only at the lake and the northern limits of the city was the conflagration stayed, or rather, spent, for lack of anything to consume. " The sensations conveyed to the spectator of this unparalleled event, either through the eye, the ear, or other senses or sympathies, cannot be 60 RAPID GROWTH OF CHICAGO AND THE GREAT FIRE. adequately described, and any attempt to do it but shows the poverty of language. "The total area burned over, including streets, was nearly three and a third square miles. The number of buildings destroyed was 17,450; persons rendered homeless, 98,500 ; persons killed, about 200. Not including depreciation of real estate or loss of business it is estimated that the total loss occasioned by the fire was $ 1 90,000,000, of which about $44,000,000 was recovered on insurance, though one of the first results of the fire was to bankrupt many of the insurance companies all over the country. The business of the city was interrupted but a short time, how- ever. Before the winter many of the merchants were doing business in extemporized wooden structures and the rest in private dwellings. In a year after the fire a large part of the burnt district had been rebuilt, and at present there is scarcely a trace of the terrible disaster, save in the improved character of the new buildings over those destroyed, and the general better appearance of the city now architecturally the finest in the world." Another Great Conflagration. On July 14, 1874, within three years, as if the demon of destruc- tion were not yet satiated, still another great fire swept over the devoted city, destroying eighteen blocks, or sixty acres, in the heart of the city, and about $4,000,000 worth of property. Over 600 houses were con- sumed ; but fortunately by far the larger number of these were wooden shanties. Nearly all the magnificent structures of the rebuilt section escaped. The greatness of the calamity of 1871 was only exceeded by the greatness of the relief afforded. It is worth recording that within a very short time subscriptions amounting to $7,000,000 flowed in, bringing with them a new heart and new hope to the stricken sufferers. The desolation of the town was frightful. Streets were obliterated, million- aires were homeless, paupers were as rich as many who a little time before had been accounted men of wealth, and the savings of half a life- time in many instances had been swept away in an hour. Ghastly ruins covered the spot where magnificent buildings had reared their imposing fronts; the tall spires of churches which had been land-marks were no longer to be seen ; palatial hotels that had shel- tered hundreds of guests now looked like the ruins of ancient buildings gone to decay; great business blocks which just before had been noisy with traffic were now laid low ; and in fact, if an earthquake like that whicli visited ill-fated Lisbon had upheaved the city and toppled over its edifices the desolation could not have been more complete. RAPID GROWTH OF CHICAGO AND THE GREAT FIRE. 51 By this awful conflagration, the fiery pang of which was felt through- out the world, the spirit of the people of Chicago was put to the test. As soon as the first dreadful blow was over, as soon as the shock which made the city stagger had passed, people addressed themselves to the great question of repairing the dreadful wastes and rebuilding their homes and places of business. Chicago was not to be left to its fiery fate ; it was to rise from the ashes like the phoenix of old with a stronger and a bolder wing. The real history of that lurid night and terrible day will never be written. Fears, alarms, disappointments, sense of losses can never be expressed in words. "Fire-proof Buildings," Good Fuel. And to think that a considerable part of the buildings which were destroyed were " absolutely fire-proof!" No fear that Chicago would burn ! Iron fronts, iron walls, iron floors, everything iron what chance was there for fire to get in ? But the flames hissed and laughed at fire- proof structures, swept on like a mad cyclone, burned not only houses of wood, but dashing through windows and up stairways and elevators, licked with their hot tongues merchandise of every description, and in the seething furnace, this very hell of flame, iron melted like snowflakes and destruction reigned supreme. One thing had been gained : buildings " absolutely fire-proof" were very suspicious structures. Yet as a large part of the disaster had come from wooden buildings, such as are common in all western towns, it was decided that in the reconstruction they should be left out as far as possi- ble. Edifices of a more substantial character were put up. Few towns to-day have more fire-proof structures than Chicago, and there can be no doubt but the appearance of the city was greatly improved by the fire that reduced to ashes so many buildings which otherwise would have stood for many years, but which now are replaced by structures of finer- proportions. In this view of the case the fire was not an unmixed calamity. The city to-day has more attractive specimens of architec- ture, more spacious business palaces, and more beautiful dwellings by reason of the direful work of the little lamp kicked over by an old woman's cow. Whatever check was put upon the prosperity of Chicago by the fire was only temporary. She was soon on her feet again and ready for the race. Insurance companies settled their losses, available capital was utilized, fresh capital was offered from distant places, and it was not long before a new and finer city began to rise out of the ruins and frag- ments of the old. The great lake was still there; the site^on which the 52 RAPID GROWTH OF CHICAGO AND THE GREAT FIRE. 53 metropolis stood was not burned up; the vast resources of the Northwest were not consumed, and, best of all, the spirit and courage of the peo- ple had not died with the smouldering embers. Nothing, therefore, remained but to look forward to a greater Chicago, which was sure to come within the next generation. A City Without Houses. Although the homes of 98,500 persons were burned up, and to a con- siderable extent this vast number of people were thrown upon public charity, yet that resolute determination which masters emergencies did not forsake the sufferers. Of the immense loss sustained only $44,000, OOO was covered by insurance. It is estimated that two hundred persons lost their lives in the conflagration, a fact more to be deplored than the destruction of banks, warehouses, wholesale and commission houses, railroad depots and much else that had drawn t > Chicago the trade of the Northwest and made it a great commercial centre. One of the incidents of the terrible scene was the plundering which was carried on by the criminal classes. Suddenly they waked up from their hiding places and like pirates on the high seas began to seize what- ever they could lay their hands on. General Phil Sheridan took com- mand of the situation, and on request of the Mayor ordered eight com- panies of United States regulars to the city to act as police. This had a wholesome effect upon the marauders and checked the wholesale plunder that had been going on. Tents outside the crowded portion of the town were erected for the accommodation of the homeless, and for a long time the locality looked like a vast military camp. Yet already the great fire has passed into history, and many leaves of the book have since been turned down upon that which contains tjie lurid record. CHAPTER III. Great Industries of Chicago. TO some extent Chicago is a manufacturing city, but in this re- spect it does not compare with other towns, especially Philadel- phia, which is one of the greatest manufacturing centres in the world. Business of other kinds, however, is carried on at Chicago to an almost unlimited extent, and even the manufacturing interests can have much placed to their credit. One of the busiest spots is the Union Stock Yards. These are located about five and a half miles southwest of the City Hall. The Union Stock Yards date back to 1865, when the company was organ- ized, purchased four hundred acres of land, and began operations at once on a large scale. About half of the ground is occupied by the yards, the remainder being used for railroad connections. A large num- ber of tracks run into the yards, affording ample conveniences for trans- portation. The plant of the Union Stock Yards Company cost $4,000,000, and it is needless to say has been a profitable investment. By visiting the ground one can realize the truth of Mr. Parton's statement that " Chicago feeds States and Kingdoms." It used to be said that cotton was king ; some of the northwest states say that corn is king ; but from the amount of business done in the great packing establishments of Chicago it would seem to be more nearly correct to say that pork is king. Here at the yards are twenty miles of streets, twenty miles of water-troughs, fifty miles of feeding-troughs, and about seventy-five miles of water and drainage pipes. This gives one some idea of the vast magnitude of the business carried on. The visitor wonders where all the immense product can find a market. The yards have an excellent supply of water, some of which is brought in by pipes, while a considerable part is procured by a number x>f artesian wells, having an average depth of 1,230 feet. Numbers Accommodated. The yards can accommodate at one time 50,000 sheep, 20,000 cattle and 120,000 hogs, yet the conveniences are so ample that this vast num- ber can be well cared for and supplied with food and water. Great pains are taken to keep the yards in good condition, and a small army of men is employed for this purpose and in looking after the stock. 54 50 GREAT INDUSTRIES OF CHICAGO. Of course, the business is reduced to a system ; there is no disorder, no confusion, no hopeless tangle at any time, and as the company owns 150 miles of railroad tracks, with any number of switches and shipping places, the vast multitude of sheep, cattle and hogs can be handled with comparative ease. Trains are constantly rolling in with their living freight, which is received by the company and taken in charge for the commission men and dealers or salesmen, who occupy premises assigned them in the yard, and who aim to have all their cattle located in one place. The whole yard is divided into pens, and these are so numbered and situated that the business is expedited and easily carried on. Each pen has a water-trough, and there are hay-racks in those used for cattle and sheep. All the pens are made of wood and very strongly con- structed, the floors being of the same material. The alleys that intersect the yard are macadamized. Feed stores and weighing scales are placed at convenient points. The Stock Yards Company is responsible to the railroad companies for the freight due on each shipment, and in turn the owners of the stock and the commission men are responsible to the com- pany. It would be impossible to collect the freight on every carload as it comes in, and so settlements are made twice a week, the commission men being required to furnish to the company a bond of $i 0,000 to secure the amounts that may, at any time, accumulate. Hours for Buying and Selling. The arrivals of trains at the yards are frequent between four and eight o'clock in the morning, yet the trains come in at all hours of the day. Buying and selling are constantly going on. The hog market opens early and the transactions are generally over by ten o'clock. Most of the buying in the sheep market is done in the morning, while trading in cattle begins at nine o'clock and continues until three. The number of employees at the Stock Yards is about 1,000, and there are 120 commission men who employ 1,000 assistants ; to these must be added about 300 buyers, while there are hundreds of sight-seers and owners of stock who are looking on. It will be seen that the yard is a very busy place, and the vast magnitude of the business may be esti- mated from the fact that during five days of the week about 10,000 cattle arrive every day in addition to the great number of sheep and hogs. The troughs are filled with water, and hay is provided for the cattle, which are sorted and classed, and then the preparations for buying and selling are complete. In another part of the town is located the Exchange Building, where the Stock Yards Company, commission men, buyers and railroad com- GREAT INDUSTRIES OF CHICAGO. 57 panics have their offices. A bank is also located in the same building. One interesting feature of the business is the weighing of the live stock. For this purpose immense scales are provided, with a capacity of 1 00,000 pounds. A vast number of cattle can be placed on the scales in a single day. Everybody is at liberty to examine the scales, and this precau- tionary measure prevents all disputes concerning the weights. As the cattle pass from the scales they become the property of the buyer. A scale ticket is furnished from which the weight is determined and the amount of the purchase is made up. It is not necessary here to enter into all the details of sorting the stock and separating it according to its condition and value. The whole business is so systematized that the best results are obtained. Helping to Feed the World. Standing in the Stock Yards one is led to inquire what becomes of the vast product which is handled daily. Where does it come from and where does it go ? The movement is always toward the East ; it does not stop even this side of the Atlantic. The borders of the Gulf of Mexico, the great ranches of Texas and the Southwest, the valleys of Montana and Nevada, and the wide plains of Arizona, all help to feed the Stock Yards of Chicago. The animals are gathered at various points and then collected at some convenient place for shipment, and are hurried on to their destination. The whole world must eat, and Chicago helps to solve the all-important problem of supplying food for millions of human mouths. One of the latest improvements in transportation is the construction of " palace stock-cars " by which cattle can be easily supplied with food and water on their journey. This provision has not only a commercial aspect, but it is also humane and reasonable ; for it is useless to boast of high attainments in civilization when there is constant abuse of the ani- mal creation and a cruelty which places man on the level of the brute. It frequently happens that the sufferings of animals transported a long distance are pitiful and inhumar The Famous Packing-Houses. Just here we may give a brief description of the packing-houses, some of the largest of which in the world are located at Chicago. Among these may be mentioned the " Big- Four" packers, namely, Armour and Company, the Anglo-American Packing Company, Nelson Morris and Company and Swift and Company. These firms have shown their enter- prise by organizing a new Stock Yard Company, in order to keep pace with 53 GREAT INDUSTRIES OF CHICAGO. the rapid increase of business. As early as 1870, Mr. George II. Ham- mond, of Detroit, conceived the idea of dressing beef and shipping it to distant points. His untimely death prevented him from carrying out his great project to the fullest extent, but others took it up, and it is now an important part of the packing industry of Chicago. Slaughter-houses, with all the best appliances and contrivances for carrying on the busi- ness, have been erected, where every part of the animal is utilized, and the meat is made ready to be packed in the refrigerator cars and thus sent all over the country. Europe wants whatever America does, and the product of the packing-houses is not confined to our own country for its market. The slaughter-house is an interesting place to visit, that is, if one can forget for the moment that helpless animals are giving up their own lives to maintain the lives of human beings. The place is kept scrupulously neat and clean, and scarcely a speck of dirt can be discovered on the floors where the process is completed. One discovers no noise nor con- fusion; the rapidity with which the work goes on and the dexterity of the butchers are amazing ; and the mechanical contrivances and the sys- tem employed impress every visitor. A Typical Guide. For the very moderate sum of twenty-five cents anyone who wishes to visit the Stock Yards and packing establishments can obtain a guide familiar with all the mysteries of the place and able to describe the interesting sights with as much enthusiasm as if he were a Congressman advocating the admission of a new state into the Union and picturing its wonderful resources. He will conduct you from point to point, answer all questions with the greatest affability, tell you the names of all the streets and avenues, for it must be understood that all the narrow passages are named as pompously as a Michigan Avenue, and when you have heard all he has to say, and seen how the business is done, you are fortunate if you are not so completely bewildered that you know quite as little as you did before you paid your twenty-five cents. Yet a visit to these places will at least give one a general idea of one of the great industries of Chicago. You will see important officials who, from having once driven cows down the old country lane, have risen to be moguls and are reputed to be millionaires. The outside dress and appearance may not indicate that they are money kings, yet it is not important that a man who can draw his check for half a million or a million should carry around on his person a placard to let the world know it. GREAT INDUSTRIES OF CHICAGO. 59 There is one particular guide at the stock yards frequently pointed out as an extremely interesting fellow. This is " Old Bill," the bunko steer. He is perhaps the most depraved animal in existence. There is no element of brotherly love or patriotism in his nature. His duty at the yards is to guide droves of cattle to the slaughter-houses. He has mastered his little act and reduced steering steers to a science. Every day he takes his post near one of Armour's packing houses and waits until it is necessary to drive a herd of cattle up the viaduct to the killing- rooms. He then joins the drove, ingratiates himself into their good-will, and tells them that he knows of a good pasture not far away. At his suggestion the cattle think about it and finally resolve to let him lead them there. Bill, the bunko steer, laughs softly and a cruel look lights his eyes. He lopes off through the mud toward a large gate not far away. Following after him are a hundred or more cattle, every one entertaining a vision of gently-swelling hills covered with long, wavy blue-grass and sweet-clover blossoms. Bill leads them to this gate and allows the herd to go through it, while he steps aside and avoids the rush. As the dust of the rush clears off a little a familiar figure is observed slowly strolling away from the gate. It is " Bill." On his face is no remorse as he saunters back Jto his post of duty near a tall fence. He is then ready to betray a couple hundred more of his unsuspecting rela- tives. Grain Elevators. One of the largest transportation vessels on the lakes is the propeller "America." Her first cargo consisted of 95,000 bushels of corn. To load this vast bulk in the old way would consume a vast amount of time and require the labor of many men. The vessel received her cargo of 95,000 bushels of corn in one hour and twenty-five minutes and was ready for sailing. This simple fact shows the practical advantages of the grain elevator. An immense quantity of grain is handled at Chicago, and this has necessitated the construction of elevators on a large scale. One of these huge buildings, put up in first-class style, costs about $500,000. The height and length are each about 155 feet. There is an outside brick wall sixteen or eighteen inches thick; a fire wall two feet thick com- monly divides the building in the middle. Tanks and barrels of water are located at convenient points and chemical fire extinguishers are ready for emergency. Iron ladders extend to the top as a precaution against fire, and electric signals are so placed that an instant alarm can be given. The machinery is of the best construction, including a Corliss engine O f 1,000 horse-power. The diameter of the main shaft is eighteen inches 60 GREAT INDUSTRIES OF CHICAGO. 61 and that of the drive-wheel is twenty feet. A rubber belt 2OO feet long and five feet wide is among the curiosities of the establishment. The chimney of the furnaces is about the height of the building, and fourteen feet in diameter at the base. The labor of 100 men is required to run an elevator of this size. How the Loading and Unloading Are Done. The cars containing the grain are run alongside the building for the purpose of conveniently unloading. The grain falls through an iron grating into the hopper under the floor. There it is caught by buckets and carried to the top of the building, where it is emptied into scale hop- pers, each of which is capable of holding 2,000 bushels. Hundreds of bins are partitioned off for the storage of the grain. Spouts and funnels are provided through which the grain is conducted to cars or vessels for transportation. When grain is to be shipped it is drawn from the bins into a hopper on the ground floor and thence it is carried by the elevators into storage places above the scales, where it is weighed in qtianities of 500 bushels at a time. Being then emptied into a shipping bin, which is amply provided with spouts, it can be easily conveyed to the vessel waiting for its cargo. Cars are loaded much in the same way. The grain elevator is a remark- able device and is a great saving of time and labor. Chicago is an immense depot for wheat and corn. Some of the wild- est speculations of recent times have been in these products. Through the newspapers the reading public hears of" corners in wheat " and the fortunes which are made or lost by the great operators. The vast prairies of the West must have an outlet for their products. Chicago stretches out its hands toward the great agricultural districts ; the very wheat seems to nod its head towards Chicago. The transactions in grain are so large that this business must be considered one of the most important of the western metropolis. The Lumber Business. Next must be mentioned the trade in lumber, which began with the growth of the city and has increased from year to year. It is useless to give the reader the figures of this vast business. These would convey but little idea of the amount of lumber received and shipped to other points. Fortunately the regions around the upper lakes are heavily timbered. Nature has provided fine growths and has been lavish with her products. An army of men has been employed for many years in cutting down the forests and turning them into material for the con struction of buildings and furniture. 62 GREAT INDUSTRIES OF CHICAGO. The lumber district is in the southwestern part of the city, from five to seven miles from the Postoffice. The yards extend over a wide area, and like a town, are laid out in streets and alleys. Here the boards and planks are received from the vessels, and thousands of men are employed in unloading them and placing them in position to be seasoned and made ready for the market. Some of the largest planing mills and sash, door and blind factories in the world are located here. In fact a whole house can be built in these factories, except merely putting it together. All the various parts are prepared and made ready for shipment, and all the builder has to do is to fit them together. A man can send an order by letter for a house and might get it by the next train. A considerable part of the foreign labor employed in Chicago is con- nected with the lumber yards. The turbulent element in the foreign population has sometimes turned this district into a pandemouium. Riots on a small scale have been of frequent occurrence, yet recently a more peaceful spirit has prevailed and the lumber district has a much better reputation than formerly. The Celebrated McCormick Reaper. Among the individual enterprises which have given Chicago fame must be mentioned the McCormick Harvesting Machine Company. It is claimed that the works of this company produce more grass and grain-cutting machines than any other establishment in the world. Formerly harvesting was done by hand, but the old scythe and cradle were too slow, and now it would seem ludicrous to attempt to use them' for the vast crops, which grow upon our western prairies. As long ago as 183! a McCormick reaper was in use in Virginia. By a process of evolution it has been brought to its present state of perfection and is one of our most famous American inventions. The works of the company are on the outskirts of the city and are situ- ated on the south branch of the Chicago River. They appear to form almost a town by themselves. The spacious yards, the large buildings, the perpetual hum of machinery, the resounding hammer strokes, the hurried clatter, which may be heard in the distance, the hundreds of employes scattered through the works, reminding one of a swarm of bees, convey to the mind of the visitor some idea of the magnitude of this very successful manufacturing establishment. Until within a recent period Cyrus H. McCormick, the inventor, was the leading spirit, and gave his personal attention to the manufacture of his far-famed reaper. His suc- cess is proved from the fact that one-third of all the grain and grass-cut- ting machines in the world are manufactured at Chicago. \ GREAT INDUSTRIES OF CHICAGO. 63 There are other establishments in Chicago, where large quantities of agricultural implements, such as reapers, mowers, corn-planters, etc., are manufactured ; so that this industry has become one of the most important. McCormick Machines for the Continent. These go everywhere. Figures show that in one season the number of machines sold reached the amazing total of 105,468. This stupend- ous achievement can be fully estimated only when we consider that each of these is to be drawn by horses and has a weight of 650 to 1,300 pounds. Only the most effective machinery, employed with the greatest, skill, could produce such enormous results. The transportation facilities of the place are unsurpassed. There are covered sheds extending over railroad tracks where fifty cars can be loaded at once, and the facilities for bringing in the raw material are equally great. Except for the tmst complete system in all the various departments, the work could not be done ; every official knows his place, so does every other man ; and so apparently do every axle and every cog and every wheel. This gigantic business has long been growing; new improvements from time to time have been made in the reapers, keeping fully up with the times, and as the country has been settled and new furrows have been turned, the click of the McCormick reaper has been heard over half the continent. The company has in its possession a curiosity well worth visiting the place to see. It is the first and original reaper invented by Cyrus H. McCormick. It is old and quaint, worn and rusty, but is the embodiment of an idea. It is interesting to compare this with the superb machine which has grown out of it. When we think of the old hand-sickle and the slow process of harvesting common among our easy- going ancestors, a process which was harder and more laborious than the one which has taken its place, we need not wonder that human ingenuity set itself to work to provide a more expeditious method and one that would be easier. There has been great improvement in all kinds of agricultural implements. These have been an important aid in farm labor, and among them all probably none is more highly prized than the reaper we have briefly described. Pullman Palace Cars. In the immediate vicinity of Chicago the works of the Pullman Palace Car Company are located. These can easily be reached by visitors from the heart of the city. The Pullman palace car is known to all travellers upon our great railroads. Its popularity has been abundantly proved, and the fact that it survives all tests and is in constant use is sufficient evidence of its convenience and value. 64 GREAT INDUSTRIES OF CHICAGO. The works of the Company are located at Pullman on the shore of Lake Calumet, ten miles south of the business part of the city. The town takes its name from its founder, who located it on as high ground as could be obtained in order to secure healthful surround- ings. The principal industry is, of course, the manufacture of Pullman cars. The population is 15,000, while a much larger number occupy the immediate vicinity. Ground was broken for the Palace Car Works on May 25, 1881. No place has awakened greater interest and none apparently has been more prosperous. INTERIOR OF PULLMAN SLEEPING CAR. About 4,000 men are employed in the works of the Car Company, which are confined not merely to palace cars, but extend their operations to the manufacture of freight, passenger, sleeping and street cars. The intention of the founder of the place was to make this a model town. Care was taken in lying out the streets, building the residences, provid- ing for parks and gardens, and obtaining a good supply of water. Neat- ness and thrift are evident on all sides, and the employes of the works seem to appreciate their advantages. Industries of various descriptions are connected with the car workc, affording employment to a large number of people. The success of this GREAT INDUSTRIES OF CHICAGO. 65 enterprise is what might be expected from the brain and energy that have been put into it. Strict business principles are laid down and resolutely carried out. Every two weeks wages are paid, and these are sufficient to enable almost any man, with economy, not only to live comfortably but to lay up something ahead. Much has been written in magazines and newspapers concerning this place, for the reason that when it was started it was considered an experiment. It cannot be regarded in this light to-day, for the experimental stage was passed long ago. INTERIOR OF A PULLMAN PARLOR CAR. One of the largest industries of Chicago is that of the Illinois Steel Company. Of the nineteen coke-blast furnaces in the city, seventeen are owned by this company. "The Illinois Steel Company" is a cor- poration formed by the consolidation of the North Chicago Rolling Mill Company, the Joliet Steel Company and the Union Steel Company. The consolidation was effected May I, 1889, and brought under one control and management five plants as follow: North Chicago Works, South Chicago Works and Milwaukee Works, the North Chicago Rolling Mill 5 66 GREAT INDUSTRIES OF CHICAGO. Company, Joliet Steel Company's Works, at Joliet ; Union Steel Com- pany's Works, at Chicago. Other property, such as coal lands and coke ovens, etc., belonging to the separate companies, was also included, the whole comprising a property which is capitalized at $50,000,000. The five plants of the company occupy over 500 acres of ground, and the coal lands consist of 4,500 acres, on which there are 1,150 coke ovens. The company owns 1,500 cars used in the coke trade, and the internal transportation at the different plants requires the use of 500 cars and forty-two locomotives of standard gauge, besides seventeen narrow-gauge locomotives hauling special truck. There are sixty miles of standard gauge and seventeen miles of narrow-gauge railroads in the track. The first intention was to use these works in making rails, and this object has been carried out with great success. The company has helped to belt the continent with steel. From time to time, however, a demand for other forms of iron and steel work has sprung up, so that the com- pany is now a very extensive manufacturer of rods, beams, billets and other products which find a ready market. New blast-furnaces have been provided as they were required. Pennsylvania boasts of some of the largest iron and steel works in the country, but this plant at Chicago is a successful rival of all the industries of this description in this or any other part of the world. The rich mines of Lake Superior and Iron Ridge in Wisconsin furnish ores, and the various mills are kept running to their fullest capacity. So varied are the products of the company that it may be said in a general way these comprise almost everything that is required of the iron and steel industry. Piano and Organ Factories. There are few American homes in which there is not some musical instrument. The newer parts of the country in this respect are not one whit behind the older communities of the East. The grim Puritan sang psalms in church without any organ, but his descendants indulge in livelier music accompanied by all sorts of instruments. Sometimes we wonder where all the Family Bibles go, hundreds of thousands of which are manufactured every year ; " where do all the pianos go," is a question equally interesting and hard to answer. Evidently the people of our country are lovers of music ; they sing, they play, they attend concerts and operas, they have excellent schools for the cultivation of musical talent. The great piano and organ factories of the W. W. Kimball Company are among the attractions of Chicago, and will interest the visitor about as much as any that can be pointed out. The buildings composing the GREAT INDUSTRIES OF CHICAGO. 67 factories are two in number, each being the counterpart of the other, five stories high, with a frontage of eighty feet and a depth of 250 feet. Together they have a floorage of 200,000 square feet. They are located on the Chicago River, and near the junction of two railroads, with a private switch leading into the premises. The grounds comprise over seven acres of land, the most of which is used as a lumber yard. The company always have some 4,000,000 square feet of lumber on hand. The six large dry-houses hold 150,000 square feet. Where the "Work is Done. As soon as the lumber is sufficiently dried it is placed on little cars made expressly for that purpose, and wheeled directly into the mill-room where it is cut up into proper shapes for both pianos and organs. For this purpose the company have all the latest improved machines. The work is divided between the two factories, the organs being made in one, while the other is devoted exclusively to pianos. All the mill work, however, is done in the organ factory. These factories give employment to between five and six hundred men. Each factory is divided by a thick fire wall into three parts. There are thirty of these rooms, besides the office in the front of the piano factory. The company ships about loo pianos every week, or about 5,000 per annum. Permission to visit the factories may be obtained at the Wabash Avenue salesroom. The building occupied by the offices of this co:npany is considered one of the finest edifices in the country. It is made of chocolate-colored brick, has a frontage of eighty feet and is seven stories high. The trimmings are brown stone, and particular attention has been paid to the strength and durability of the materials. The floors are double and the air-chambers are padded with cement. Within the building is a concert hall which holds six hundred people, and by opening folding doors a larger number can be accommodated. The floors above the first, contain- ing upwards of fifty rooms, are furnished for offices and studios, and are occupied by artists, teachers and musicians. The building is lighted throughout with electricity, the ventilation is the best that can be obtained, and elevators obviate the necessity of climbing long flights of stairs. Electric motors are the power used for the elevators. All the latest improvements have been introduced and the building is a model of its kind. Western Electric Company. The manufacture of electric apparatus is another of the great indus- tries of Chicago. The Western Electric Company's Works are situated on Clinton Street; they have a frontage of 312 feet and a depth of 150 68 GREAT INDUSTRIES OF CHICAGO. feet. The building has six stories and five acres of floor space. About eleven hundred hands are employed, whose weekly wages amount to something like $n,ooo. The value of the product annually turned out readies the grand total of $2,500,000. This company manufactures all kinds of electrical apparatus such as lamps, motors, telephones, tele- graph wires, insulated wires, electric light cables, multiple switch-boards, magnetic bells, etc. Marvelous Discoveries in Electricity. A visit to this establishment will give one a vivid idea of the marvel- ous discoveries in electricity and the ingenious contrivances employed for lighting dwellings, stores, factories, theatres and the streets of our large cities. It is remarkable that the untamed lightning should be brought into our very houses, affording us an opportunity to read our newspapers by its brilliant light. It is also remarkable, considering the really dangerous nature of electricity, that so few accidents by its use have been reported. It may be said that the science of electricity is as yet only in its infancy. In all probability great discoveries will yet be made, parti- cularly in the application of this agent as a motive power. Past dis- coveries are remarkable and interesting as showing that nature's resources are ample for the wants of man. No sooner do men who have a passion for dealing with figures begin to predict that our mountains of coal will one day be exhausted, cutting off the supply for the manu- facture of gas, than we hear of the electric light which does not require the consumption of coal and which is as free as the air we breathe, the only expense being in utilizing the electric element that burns and hisses in the world around us. It is not surprising that there should be large electric works at Chicago, for the West is particularly prompt in welcoming new discoveries and improvements. The old tallow candle has had its day. The oil lamp, like that which set fire to Chicago, is not equal to the requirements of dwellings and cities, and as the years go on electricity will come more and more into use, and the company whose plant we have been describ- ing may find that its present business is only like the acorn out of which comes the towering oak. California Fruit Transportation Company. The business of this company is one of the most interesting in the city. For a long time it was a difficult matter to get the rich fruits of California in our eastern markets. The company was organized in 1889, GREAT INDUSTRIES OF CHICAGO. 69 after it had been discovered by repeated tests that all kinds of fruit suf- fer by being placed in refrigerator cars and transported long distances. They keep very well by the half- freezing process, yet their flavor is not improved, and when they are suddenly transferred from the refrigerators into the warm air they become very perishable and decay so rapidly that great loss is likely to be occasioned thereby. The object of this company has been to obviate these difficulties and prevent the losses following the old method of transportation. Various improvements have been made in fruit cars, so that a revolution has taken place in the California fruit industry within a short time. It has been found that the most tender fruits can be carried two or three times as far as formerly, and that they come out in a very satisfactory state. This has led to the opening up of new markets whereby the business has been greatly increased. A man now, in one of our eastern towns, on his way home from business, can carry with him a supply of delicious fruits from the Pacific coast, two or three thousand miles away, and they will prove to be almost as fresh and palatable as if he plucked them from their native trees or vines. The company has constructed its own cars, merely employing the railroads for doing its business. Its appliances are unquestionably a great improvement over the antiquated methods of obtaining fruits from California. CHAPTER IV. Public Buildings and Institutions of Chicago. A GREAT improvement in architecture has lately been displayed in all our American cities. When the early settlers built houses for themselves they could pay but little attention to the style. The easiest and cheapest structure was the log hut with a big fireplace and unplastered walls. When the old log-house of our fore- fathers was intended to be something very fine it had a second floor, acces- sible by a ladder. The front door opened into the living room and the house was innocent of anything in the shape of a hall. No porch sur- rounded it and its outside ornaments were the rough ends of the logs of which it was built. Yet, as the man who lived in the house was the pioneer of a thrifty race that was to follow him, so the old log cabin was the germ out of which have grown the palatial residences of Fifth Avenue. In a new country but little attention can be paid to architecture. The family must be sheltered this is the principal thing. After a while, when the land has been cleared up and hard labor has gained a competency, the house can have a hall, a stairway, a furnace in the cellar, fine cornices outside and, if it shall please the occupant, a cupola perched on top. The same growth is observed in the architecture of public buildings. The first old post-office in New York was hardly the suggestion of the spacious granite building, erected a few years ago at the lower point of the City Hall Park, from which is now distributed the mails for a conti- nent. As the country has grown so have our public edifices, and America to-day can boast of some of the finest buildings in the world. Quite a number of these are located in Chicago. Brains of architects have been busy, the amount of money furnished has grown to large pro- portions, investments of this description have been profitable, and the result is seen in those magnificent structures which line the streets of the western metropolis. The "Sky-Scrapers." Since the great fire of 1871 an effort has been made to make the build- ings more substantial and if possible fire-proof. The height of some of these amazes the visitor. " Sky-scrapers " they have been appropriately called ; they remind one of the old accounts of the Tower of Babel by which the people tried to reach heaven, as if they were very doubtful 70 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. 71 about being able to do it in -any other way. In the large buildings of Chicago best materials are used and special attention is paid to the con- struction. The iron and steel are tested in order that every flaw may be discovered. Large use is made of fire-clay with which the metals are covered, forming air-chambers that render it difficult for the metals to be over-heated by even the hottest fire. The rapidity with which the largest edifices are built is surprising, and ' could only be done by the use of steam and machinery. The ingenuity of man and his inventions enable him to work almost miracles. It was THE AUDITORIUM. once said by one of our popular orators that a block of buildings ten stories high could be run up in four months by an enterprising man, but it took the world four thousand years to run 'him up so that he could do it. Perhaps the most famous building is the Auditorium. Its vast size, its convenient arrangements, and the many uses to which it is devoted, have given it a great celebrity. The building is said to have cost $3,200,000, exclusive of the ground. It is the property of a corporation and is the pride of the city. The theatre which occupies one part of the building is a wonder by itself. Its proportions are such that it can accommodate an immense number of people. The main object in building the Auditorium was to furnish a theatre where the great celebrities of the stage could make their appearance ; 72 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. especially where the greatest of the world's musical productions, rendered by the most famous singers and musicians, could be heard by the admirers of the oratorio and the opera. But a theatre of this description occupying one building was likely to be too expensive, so it was resolved to erect the Auditorium, which could be devoted to many additional pur- poses. The stock is owned by a few wealthy, public spirited citizens, yet the poorest man in the city may consider himself a sharer in the advan- tages afforded. The Auditorium has been adopted by the town, and is regarded as its common property. It is located on Congress Street, Michigan and Wabash Avenues. The dimensions are as follows: The total street frontage is 710 feet; the height of the main building, ten stories, is 145 feet ; tower above main building (8 floors), 95 feet ; lantern tower above main (2 floors), 30 feet. Total height, 270 feet : weight of entire building, 110,000 tons. Exterior of building, granite and Bedford stone ; interior, iron, brick, terra cotta, marble, and hardwood finish. Vast Quantities of Building Materials. There are 17,000,000 brick, 50,000 square feet of Italian marble, Mosaic floors containing 5 0,000,000 pieces of marble, 800,000 square feet of terra cotta, 175,000 square feet of wire lath, 60,000 square feet of plate glass, 25 miles of gas and water pipes, 230 miles of electric wire and cables, 10,000 electric lights, n dynamos, 13 electric motors for driving venti- lating apparatus, 4 hydraulic motors for driving machinery, 1 1 boilers, 21 pumping engines, 13 elevators, and 26 hydraulic lifts for moving stage platforms. Ground was broken January, 1887, and it was com- pleted Feoruary, 1890. It may be stated that the permanent seating capacity of the Audatorium is over 4,000; for conventions, etc. (for which the stage is utilized), about 8,000. This department of the building con- tains the most complete and costly stage and organ in the world. Recita. Hall seats 500. The business portion consists of stores and 136 offices, part of which are in the tower. United States Signal Service occupies part of the seventeenth, eighteenth, and nineteenth floors of the tower. These departments of the building are managed by the Chicago Audito- rium Association. The Auditorium hotel has 400 guest rooms. The grand dining-room (175 feet long) and the kitchen are on the top floor. One of the principal features of this superb building is the tower, from which a fine view is obtained of the city and its environs. Express elevators run up to the seventeenth story in the tower, and thence a short climb brings you to the top. From this commanding point the first look of the visitor upon the dense mass of buildings below, the net-work of streets, the green and beautiful parks, the lake stretching PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. 73 away like an inland sea, and the open country on the oposite side, is thrilling. It is needless to say that the top of the tower is a very attrac- tive point. Thousands make a visit to it in order to obtain one of the most striking views upon which the eye ever rested. The view from this lofty summit reminds one of the saying of Daniel Webster, that God from His high eminence looking down upo-n hu nan beings must consider them as little less than microscopic insects, and of very small account. Believ- ing, however, in the dignity of man, he did not claim that this view was correct. And certainly, one looking down from the tower of the Audito- rium would not be likely to forget that the men thronging the streets, who seem to be nothing more than itsects, have yet built the Auditorium and all the grand edifices of the city, and are not after all the insignificant creatures they appear to be. On a clear day the Michigan and Indiana shores are plainly visible across the lake. Perhaps even a more impressive sight is that witnessed at night. The great vault of heaven is hung with starry lamps, while far below myriads of gas lights and electric flames dazzle the eye, surpass- ing all the wonders pictured in the fables of Arabian Nights. Below is the great, throbbing city, whose noisy clatter is muffled by the distance, yet reminding one that the hum and roar of its busy activities never cease. Board of Trade Building. This is one of the most imposing buildings in Chicago. It dates back to 1882, its foundations having been laid in that year although it was not completed until 1885. The cost was $1,800,000. The width is 175 feet, the depth 225 feet, and the materials granite. It is located at the south end of La Salle Street, in the square bounded by Pacific Avenue and Jackson and Sherman Streets. One of its principal features is the main hall 144 feet wide and 161 feet deep. The height of the ceiling is eighty feet, and that of the tower 322 feet. The largest clock in the United States is located in this tower. The building contains a visitors' gallery for ladies and gentlemen, and a separate gallery for ladies who visit the place without an escort. The Chicago Board of Trade is a powerful organization, its transac- tions have always been on a large scale, yet its history had a humble beginning and some of the incidents related are very amusing. In 1853 there seemed to be a feeling that the Board would not be successful unless some special inducements were offered to the members to attend. It was consequently ordered, after long and eloquent harangues, that ale, cheese and crackers should be provided daily by the Secretary. It has generally been supposed that the prospect of making money was PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. 75 sufficient to induce men to attend upon any ordinary board of trade, yet in those early days there was a prevailing impression that, although men might overcome the temptation to make money, they could not resist ale, cheese and crackers. These proved to be extremely popular, so that after they were discon- tinued for a time on account of some ridicule by the outside public, the refreshments were again ordered in 1855, and the fortunes of the Board were considered to be no longer in danger. Most men are willing to eat a free lunch, and as many outsiders were ready to accept the hospi- tality of the Board, it was necessary to station a man at the door to keep out the hungry public, who were willing to eat cheese and crackers but were not willing to become members of the Board and pay the modest dues. The history of the Board of Trade is interesting. Although at the start the organization did not give any great promise, and could not be carried on apart from the daily picnic, yet it very soon assumed a high degree of dignity and importance. The idea of organic trade grew rapidly and the leading live stock dealers, grain dealers, commission merchants, jobbers and manufacturers, came to believe that a combina- tion would be greatly to their advantage and a place of exchange would not only be convenient but profitable. Figures could hardly express now the amount of business done in the Board of Trade Building. Suffice it to say that the annual footing-up of the transactions reaches into the billions. The Newberry Library. Chicago has had noble benefactors ; Phil Armour is one ; Cyrus H. McCormick was another, and a third was Walter L. Newberry. Mr. Newberry left a large bequest for founding a library, which already con- tains 70,000 volumes besides many thousands of pamphlets and other important documents. The bequest was made in 1858, and at that time was upwards of $1,000,000. This, by careful investments, has been trebled, so that the library is one of the richest in the United States. A magnificent struc- ture costing $500,000 has been erected on North Clark Street opposite Washington Park. The appreciation of the public is shown by the large patronage already bestowed, which will doubtless increase with the growth of the institution and the increasing provision made for meeting the demands of the reading community. The Public Library occupies the fourth floor of the City Hall. It has become the third among the great libraries of the United States, having on its shelves a total of 179,640 volumes. This number is being 76 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. increased at the rate of 10,000 volumes per year. The total circulation in one year was 1,220,479; 843,971 volumes of which were taken for home reading. The number of visitors to the reading room was 436,41 2, and those to the several reference departments, not including the reading room, was 113,531. The eighteen branch, or delivery stations, located in distant parts ol the city, have had an aggregate yearly issue of 201,257 volumes. The library quarters are frequently visited by as many as 7,000 persons in one day. The great need of this valuable institution is a suitable building ot adequate proportions to meet its growing wants, and better adapted to public access and convenience than the fourth floor of the City Hall. However, this want will soon cease to exist, as the City Council, by ordi- nance, has granted the right to use Dearborn Park as a site for a Public Library building. This has been supplemented by an act of the General Assembly of Illinois authorizing the proper authorities to erect and maintain a public library on Dearborn Park. By its provisions the Soldiers' Home is also authorized to transfer to the City of Chicago its interest in the northeast quarter of the park, on condition that a memorial hall be built in the library building, for the use of non-partisan soldier organizations of Cook County, for fifty years. The site of the new library building, which will be in every respect an ornament to the city, generally known as Dearborn Park, is bounded on the north by Randolph Street, on the east by Michigan Avenue, on the south by Washington Street and on the west by an alley known as Dear- born Place. The Directors of the Public Library have taken possession of the ground, have made the plans, and the new building is an accom- plished fact. The Chicago Public Library was the recipient of a gold medal from the Paris Exposition as an award for a display of the best system of conducting library affairs. The principal libraries of the East were competitors for the honor. Thus Chicago, in this, as in most things, leads all competitors. The Academy of Sciences. This institution was founded in 1857, and like many others was a sufferer in the great fire, its fine collection being at that time destroyed together with the building it occupied. The Academy holds high rank among scientific institutions, while its collection is said to rank fifth at the present time among the museums of the world. A visit to this place will repay anyone who is interested in the natural sciences. Few learned bodies are more enterprising and few have been more successful in scien- tific research. PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. 77 We may also mention here the Chicago Historical Society which was organized in 1856. It was a very flourishing institution at the time of the fire, with a large library and a valuable collection, occupying a build- ing of generous dimensions at the northwest corner of Dearborn Avenue and Ontario Street. Among its valuable papers was the original draft of President Lincoln's Emancipation Proclamation. This was destroyed by the fire, with over 100,000 books and valuable manuscripts, and a number of paintings that were highly prized. The institution has par- tially recovered from this very severe loss and is now one of the central points of interest to all interested in historical subjects. Chicago is alive to the importance of preserving historical records, and although the 'oss of the Historical Library by fire can never be fully repaired the institution is making every effort to carry out the object it has in view. The value of correct history is always seen with the lapse of time, and as our country grows older the necessity of having accu- rate records will become more apparent. The future historian who would write for succeeding generations will find our historical libraries treasure houses of rich and valuable information. In providing these, Chicago does not mean to be behind any of the sister cities. Libby Prison and "War Museum. Next to Andersonville, Libby Prison, the palace prison of the Con- federates, was the most famous of any during the Civil War. It was located at Richmond, Va., and at one time and another more than 40.000 Union officers and enlisted men were lodged within its walls. Many are living to-day who have vivid recollections of the place, and who do not need a sight of the original structure to recall its history. The project was formed to remove old Libby bodily to Chicago, and erect it there as a historic relic, making it a War Museum to contain all sorts of mementoes of the great struggle. The undertaking was a very great one. The contract for hauling the material was given to the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad Company. It required 132 cars, each of twenty tons capacity, to convey the building to its present site. The building was carefully taken apart and every beam, brace, board, stick of timber, in short, all the parts were carefully numbered, so that the old prison could be re-erected just as it was built at first. As soon as one car was loaded and ready for shipment it was closed and sealed and immediately forwarded to Chicago. The work of removal began In December, 1888, and the Museum was open to the public September 21, 1889. It has been visited by crowds of interested sight-seers, and the success of the enterprise shows the 78 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. discernment of the business men who planned it, while at the same time the Museum serves an important use in preserving the relics and memorials of the war. New objects of interest are constantly added, and the Museum contains not only the best collections of Union relics but of Confederate, also. In carrying out the undertaking there was no inten- tion of keeping alive sectional animosities. Every part of the country is interested in Libby Prison and the War Museum, and here the man who fought for the South and the man who fought for the North can meet, and in the presence of the old flags, guns, bayonets and bullets, they can shake hands and thank God for the end of the bloody strife. LIBBY PRISON AND WAR MUSEUM. The Unity Office Building is located on east side of Dearborn Street, between Washington and Randolph Streets. It is sixteen stories high, is fire -proof, and cost about $1,000,000. The main frame-work of the building is of iron and steel, and is so arranged as to make the edifice as strong as possible. Of the outer walls, the lower two and one-half stories are of Bay of Fundy red granite, and the remainder are of the finest quality of buff-colored, pressed brick and terra-cotta. All the floors are constructed of strong tile arches, supported by steel beams. The partitions are of hollow tile and crystalline glass. The floors in the office are of hard wood. The halls are lined with white Italian marble, and have mosaic ornamental tile floors. The wood trimmings in the offices are of antique oak. The stairway is of steel Avith marble treads. There are six high-speed hydraulic passenger elevators and a freight elevator reached by separate entrances. The building is heated with steam and lighted with electricity. Especial attention has been paid to PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. 79 the vaults. Instead of a simple hollow tile vault usually found in fire- proof buildings, the building has steel vaults covered with tile, and the company supplies these vaults with as many boxes made of Japanned tin, and having locks, as the tenants may need. The management con- sults the wishes of the tenants in everything, and is attentive to all their wants. The office fittings of the building are complete in every detail. The Phcenix Insurance Building is ten stories high, the uppermost being 22 feet in height. The building was erected at a cost of $7,000,000. The ground area is 50 by 214 feet. It is located on Pacific Avenue and faces the Board of Trade Building. Brown stone was brought from Vert Island for the lower three stories, the remainder being constructed of red pressed brick and terra-cotta. The woodwork throughout is mahogany, while all the halls and stairways are made entirely of white marble, the SIEGEL AND COOPER S RETAIL STORE. latter being furnished with bronze rails. No expense was spared upon the interior which is one of the handsomest in the United States. Five express elevators run from the ground to the upper floors. The general western offices of the Phcenix Insurance Company are located in this building, the apartments being conspicuous for their elegance and convenience. These cover a floor space of fifty feet by two hundred and ten, are twenty-two feet high, and the entire area is unbroken by columns, thus affording offices whose palatial appearance impresses every visitor. A vast amount of business is carried on in this building which is one of the attractions of Chicago. On State Street, extending from Van Buren to Congress Street, is the magnificent store of Siegel, Cooper and Co. The length is 402 feet, the depth 143, and the height 133, comprising eight stories with basement 80 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. and attic. Every effort was made to render the building fire-proof, iron and steel being mainly used in its construction. The business of this great establishment is divided into sixty-one departments, thus providing for a thorough and systematic management. It would be difficult to find any commodity which the store does not contain. The departments of dry goods, hardware, clothing, etc., are as complete and attractive as if each occupied a building by itself and formed a separate business. A force of 1, 800 clerks is required to attend to the customers who throng the place. The area of the different floors is about fifteen acres, and all the available space is occupied. This is one of the largest retail stores in the world. Everything required for household use may be purchased. If you want a paper of pins or a sideboard, a spool of thread or a party dress, an ounce of tea or a barrel of flour, you can obtain them here. The comfort of the great shopping community is considered by providing waiting rooms, a well-appointed restaurant, a drinking fountain, and counters for the sale of confectionery. The principle upon which the establishment is conducted is the very liberal one of supplying whatever the public wants, and it is needless to add that the store is a place of popular resort. It is somewhat remark- able that the credit system has not been allowed to come into general use. You buy what you want and pay for what you get. The manage- ment claims that by doing a cash business it is able to make better terms to its customers. Purchases that are not entirely satisfactory can be returned in ten days. The store is easy of access by cable cars and other modes of conveyance, and is within easy distance of the principal rail- way depots and hotels which will account in some measure for its success. The Post-office. Located in the square bounded by Adams Street on the north, Dear- born Street on the east, Jackson Street on the south and Clark Street on the west, this building is, properly speaking, in the very heart of the South Side business district. The site is all that could be desired, and cost the government $1,000,000 at the time the building was com- menced, immediately after the great fire of 1871. This site, like other real estate in that vicinity has at least doubled in value since that time. For the building the government appropriated $4,000,000. The dimensions of the structure are 243 by 211 feet, and its utmost height 197 feet. The building is in the Florentine-Romanesque style of architecture and of the Buena Vista, Ohio, sandstone a very fine grained stone of rich but gray-brown color. PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. 81 It was supposed that it would furnish sufficient facilities for at least fifty years. As a matter of fact the business outgrew the structure in ten years. A new postoffice building to cost about $6,000,000 will soon be erected on the same site. The upper floors of the old building are occu- pied by the Government offices, also the United States courts and cus- torn house. The first floor and basement are occupied as the postoffice. About i, 600 men are employed in the collection, sorting and delivery of letters, newspapers, etc. The annual increase of business done by the CHICAGO POST-OFFICE. Chicago Postoffice is \2 l / 2 per cent. During the year of the World's Fair (1893) it is estimated that the receipts of this office will exceed $6,000,000. Besides the general postoffice there are eleven carrier stations and twenty-two sub-postal stations. The jurisdiction of the postmaster of the Chicago Postoffice covers less than one-third of the area of the city proper ; the outlying postoffices number fifty-three. In time, no doubt, 6 82 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. these offices in the new annexations will be abolished, and all this vast business will be under one head. Mails are received' and dispatched at the general postoffice at all hours during week days, and several times during the night. There is scarcely a point of any importance in the United States for which a mail is not made up at least twice a day, and in some instances more frequently. Foreign mails are dispatched in time to catch the out-going steamers from New York and San Francisco. The time of closing these mails is posted at the general office and stations. Letters are delivered in all parts of the city by carriers at almost hourly intervals, from 8 A. M. to 7 P. M. during week-days. On Sure- days there are no deliveries, but two collections are made from the lamp- post boxes. The general postoffice is open at all hours during the day and night on week-days. Certain departments, however, are closed' after 9 P. M. It is also open from 9 to 1 1 A. M. on Sundays. Stamps, may be bought at the general office or sub-stations. The First Post-office. The old Kinzie house appears to have served among its multifarious and successive uses, as Chicago's first postoffice. Anyway, when, in 1831, this city was given a place among the postal towns, Jonathan N. Bailey was appointed postmaster ; and, as there is no record of any special office being secured, it is probable that the mails were distributed from the new official's residence, the old Kinzie house. At this time Niles, Mich., was the nearest distributing office, and from that place the mails came fortnightly by horseback to Chicago. But by 1833 the horseback mail service from Niles had doubled in frequency, while the office had risen to the dignity of occupying half a log cabin, 20 by 45 feet in extent, near the corner of Lake and South Water Streets, the portion on the opposite side of the official partition being occupied as a store by Brewster, Hogan and Co., the second member of which firm John S. C. Hogan was then postmaster. From this date until 1860, when the Government Building was com- pleted, seven or more different removes were made to accommodate the growing business of the office. This first Federal building stood on the northwest corner of Dearborn and Monroe Streets, and was burnt out in the fire of 1871, the mails, however, having been saved. The building was afterward repaired and became the new Adelphi, afterward Haverly's Theatre, until 1881, when it was torn down, and replaced by the First National Bank Building, which now occupies the site. After the fire, the postoffice occupied successively, Burlington Hall, corner of Sixteenth and State Streets, and the Wabash Avenue Methodist PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. 83 Church building, northwest corner of Wabash Avenue and Harrison Street, until that building was destroyed in the conflagration of 1874. UNION LEAGUE CLUB. After this, it was located in turn at Washington and Halstead Streets (now the West-Division sub-office); the Honore building, northwest corner Dearborn and Adams Streets, where it was again burnt out; the 84 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. basement of the Singer building corner of State and Washington Streets ; and finally, since April 29, 1879, the new Government Building, at the southeast corner of Clark and Adams Streets, where it is perman- ently located. Union League Club. This building stands at the corner of Jackson Street and Custom House Place, opposite the postoffice, and has a central, convenient loca- tion. Its height is seven stories, with a basement, and is surmounted by a circular tower with a cupola at the corner. The material is red brick, with terra cotta trimmings ; the interior is beautiful and finely finished, and the arrangement of apartments is such as to leave nothing to be desired. The Chicago Club was organized in 1879 and forms a part of r _. ai _ the Union League of America. The con- dition of membership in all the Union League clubs of the United States is absolute loyalty to the Government. Thus the League is a national organization and is not confined to any political party, although it may be said that in its membership the two great parties are not equally represented. The Chicago Club, like the Union Leagues elsewhere, is social in its character, afford- ing a pleasant place of resort for reading, discussions and social intercourse. The Ashland Building is situated at the northeast corner of Clark and Randolph Streets on each of which there is a spacious entrance. On account of its great height it was thought best to put in heavy wind-bracing in order to afford absolute security against the gales which have given Chicago the name of the " Windy City." The columns, beams and girders are made of the strongest steel, which was amply tested before it was used. The floors of the halls are mosaic work and richly inlaid. Elsewhere they are made of maple-finished wood. The offices on the upper floors are well ventilated, spacious and invit- ing. The building is sixteen stories high and the top of the cornice is 200 feet from the ground. The walls of red pressed brick, with terra- cotta trimmings, give the building an attractive appearance. Seven elevators are in constant use. The entire cost of this splendid building was $650,000. The introduction of the automatic steam governor ther- mometer by which the ventilation can be regulated, together with the ASHLAND BUILDING. 86 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. temperature, adds greatly to the comfort of the occupants of the building. Nothing is wanting to make this one of the most magnificent struc- tures ever used for business purposes. It is massive without presenting a heavy appearance. The skill of the designer has been displayed in all the details; the heating, ventilating and electric lighting apparatus is the best to be obtained ; the marble used in the halls gives them a light and cheerful aspect ; the large open court inside the structure furnishes an abundance of light to the offices adjacent to it ; the entrances are spacious ; the plumbing arrangements are perfect, and the building rep- resents the most recent improvements and attractive architecture. The first three floors are designed for large business establishments, while the other floors are used for offices. Every effort has been made to render the building fire-proof, and this object has been realized as far as it can be in any building. It is not safe to make our statements too strong, since it was found in the great fire in 1871 that "fire-proof" structures made excellent fuel and burned like pine chips. Title and Trust Building. The Chicago Title and Trust Company was formed to insure titles to real estate. Its business is of such a nature that it requires the most skillful management, by the most conservative methods. This company understands very well the value of county records. It has an imposing building situated upon Washington Street. The superb structure is seventeen stories high, and its cost, including that of the ground, was $1,300,000. This is an immense sum of money to be put into one building, but the success of the company and its ample resources warranted its erection. Of course, it is to a very great extent an investment, and there is every reason to believe that it will prove to be profitable. The company's offices occupy the first floor and basement for the trust, title, insurance and abstract departments ; for the company not only insures titles to real estate, but a part of its business consists in issuing abstracts of titles. The books and papers of the concern are extremely valuable, hence fire-proof vaults, made as strong and secure as possible, are provided for storing records. The construction of these vaults involved a great cost, and they are among the best known. The floors above are used for offices. There is a large number of these, all of which are well ventilated and have an abundance of light. An artesian well on the premises sup- plies plenty of water for the use of the tenants and for running the eleva- tors. The management is very careful as to how its business is 87 88 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. conducted, the wants of the occupants of the building are always con- sulted, and this office building is one of the best of its kind in the city. No other building in Chicago is so familiar to the people of the country as the Interstate Industrial Building. Beneath its spacious roof, year after year, have been exhibited the rich products of field, forest and mine, together with the ingenious and useful contrivances of man, from the tiny puzzle-maker to the mammoth thresher. The hum of machinery, softened by the music of playing fountains, has filled the air, while people of every state and nation touched elbows about the display stands. Here, too, the voices of Conkling, and Garfield, and Logan have been heard in impassioned oratory. High ambitions have been crushed and modest worth exalted in the numerous conventions, national and state, religious and secular, that have been held within its walls. The building is nearly 800 feet in length, by 240 feet in width. It has three lofty towers, and its roof is supported without the aid of pillar and column. The view of the entire interior is thus unobstructed. It will readily accommodate 20,000 people. City Hall and Court House. Nearly all of the fine buildings in Chicago at the present time stand upon ground that was burned over by the fire. The hot flames of the great conflagration swept away old rookeries, tumble-down edifices, rattle-trap structures that ought to have been burned up long before they were. That fire was Chicago's great cleaning-up spell. It swept the ground and prepared the way for better buildings, finer architecture, and a new city which is far superior to the old. Still it must not be sup- posed that there were no costly public buildings before the fire. Even at that time Chicago compared favorably in this respect with other cities. The original County Court House and City Hall, forming one build- ing, was completed in 1870, and was not by any means an inferior struc- ture. Marble was brought from Lockport, New York, and sandstone from Lemont, Illinois, thus affording the very best of materials in its construction. It was located in the middle of a square where the fire overtook it. It had a tower and an eleven thousand-pound bell, which rang out the alarm of fire, and continued the peal until the tower top- pled and fell. Temporary accommodations were procured at the corner of La Salle and Adams Streets, where the famous " Rookery Building " now stands. Here for a time the city offices were located, and the quar- ters have been pronounced the shabbiest of any ever occupied as a City Hall. At that time, however, no great amount of picking and choosing could be done, for there was nothing to choose from except mountainous 90 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. piles of brick, stone, iron, steel, and all the debris and rubbish left by the fiery storm that swept the city. These quarters, known as the old " Rookery," were given up in 1885, and the offices of the county and city were located in the fine building now occupied. This is situated at Clark and Washington Streets, and is complete in all its appointments. The City Hall and Court House have been called twin structures, for they are built upon one plan, and are connected by a central rotunda. The style of architecture chosen for the edifice was modern French renaissance. The interiors of the buildings differ in arrangement and appearance, that of the City Hall being finished in white oak with much coloring, while that of the Court House is more subdued and rich. The building has four stories and a basement, or ground floor, which in the design are treated in three divisions, the ground floor and first story forming the sub-structure, or basement, of the building, the second and third stories a peristyled superstructure, while the fourth story, with its pediments, forms the attic loft. The facades of the building are principally of Bedford sandstone, while the thirty- five feet Corinthian columns of the peristyle are of polished Maine granite. The basement supports a heavy entablature, massive rather than ornate; but the architrave, frieze and cornice of the entablature sur- mounting the peristyle are quite elaborate, and in the County Building the attic story is lavishly decorated with caryatides and other ornamen- tal devices ; in the City Building it is plainer. The public library, already described, occupies the fifth floor. The far- famed apartments of the high and mighty council are on the fourth floor, while the sub-basement is used for an engine room. There are elevators at both ends of the main corridor and in the rotunda. This magnificent building cost $4,400,000, an expenditure which seems somewhat lavish, yet it has given to the county and city a building which is at once an ornament to Chicago and a convenient place for the transaction of public business. Rookery Building. After the great fire of 1871 th* municipality erected for temporary use a two-story brick building on the half block bounded by La Salle, Adams and Quincy Streets, and the alley between La Salle and Clark Streets, and called it the City Hall. It was also occupied by the Courts. The structure was put up in great haste and without regard to architectural beauty. It is stated that pigeons used to flock to the building, induced thither by a glass roof which surmounted a disused water tank which occu- pied the centre of the structure and by the oats which fell from the feed-bags which the fire marshals used for their horses on the Ouincv Street side. ADAMS AND LA SALLE STREETS SHOWING THE ROOKERY AND BOARD OF TRADE BUILDINGS. 91 92 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. The story goes that one day a gentleman marched into Mayor Medill's office to complain of the pigeon nuisance and spoke of the building as a " rookery." Whether this was the real origin of the term or not. the newspaper reporters got into the habit of calling the building the " rook- ery," and it was generally understood that they alluded to the dilapidated condition of the structure, which from the day it was finished began to fall to pieces. At any rate the name clung to it as long as the building stood, and when the present magnificent structure took its place its owners decided to retain it. Chicago people are not exactly settled in their minds as to whether the "Rookery" or the "Chamber of Commerce" is the finest office building in the city. The Rookery is the larger, however, and in many respects the most elegant of the office structures. It cost, exclusive of the ground upon which it stands (the property of the municipality), very nearly $1,500,000. It is finished in the most expensive fashion through- out. There isn't a cheap feature connected with it. The grand rotunda is in itself a beautiful bit of architecture, but the building to be properly appreciated must be taken as a whole. There is not a commercial struc- ture in the world that compares with it in size, in elegance or in convenience. There are three distinct groups of elevators, two on the La Salle Street and one on the Monroe Street side, and the people occupying the top floors are practically as well situated, so far as accessibility is concerned, as those on the first floor. The mosaic work in the structure is superb. Like the Chamber of Commerce and Home Insurance buildings, the wainscoting is all of Italian marble. Every room in the building is lighted perfectly. There is not the slightest jar felt here, and those in the upper stories are practically removed from the noise and bustle of the streets below. There are over 600 offices here, all occupied, the tenants being principally Board of Trade men, agents of Eastern and foreign mercantile houses, agents of manufacturing concerns, real-estate dealers, brokers and lawyers. You should go through the building, beginning at the top. It will consume an hour or two, perhaps, but it will be time well spent. Marshall Field and Co.'s Building. This company has a building devoted to its wholesale trade and another is used for its retail business. The wholesale warehouse is built of granite and brown stone, and has eight floors, each covering a space of about an acre and a half, thus containing in all a floor space of about twelve acres. Notwithstanding these vast accommodations they are none too great for the immense business done by the company, the o t> ~ s hJ H y parterres of bright flowers bring momentary surcease of pain to PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF* CHICAGO. 101 Weakened limbs and dimmed eyes. Visitors are always welcome at the visiting hours. Newsboys' and Bootblacks' Home. At the present this is located at 1418 Wabash Avenue, and can be reached by the Wabash Avenue cable. This charity began as the Chicago Industrial School. It was not long, however, before it assumed its pres- ent purpose and name. It was the very first organized effort to aid the helpless children of this city. It is intended to provide a comfortable Christian home for newsboys, bootblacks and other homeless, unprotected boys, and, if possible, to find them homes in the country, or employment in the city. The doors of the home are never closed to anyone request- ing shelter or food, but to cultivate independence and foster self-help fifteen cents is the price of breakfast, supper and lodging. This the boys call paying their " banner." Provision is made by which destitute boys may earn immediate living expenses by selling the Newsboys' Appeal^ a small paper published in the interests of the home, or else they are loaned funds to buy a small stock of daily papers. The Studebaker Building. This great carriage factory stands near the Auditorium and Art Insti- tute on Michigan Avenue. The location of all the buildings in this immediate vicinity is very pleasant, and the Studebaker Building occu- pies one of the best. The dimensions of the building are as follows : It has a frontage of 107 feet, a depth of 170 feet, and comprises eight stories besides the basement ; the height is 135 feet, indicating plainly by its upward growth that the ground in this vicinity is extremely valuable, and as any man who owns a lot owns above it clear to the sky he can build as high as he likes provided he does not violate any of the city ordinances. The material of this immense structure is red syenite granite and buff Bedford stone. Immense spaces are required for the business of the concern, and the first four floors are used as sales-rooms. These have a storage capacity for 2,000 vehicles. The remaining floors are devoted to the manufacture of fine carriages of every style and grade. The first floor is nineteen feet in the clear, and the remaining floors are graduated until the top floor is reached where the height is twelve feet. Very fine granite columns are placed at the main entrances, highly polished, and said to be the best in the United States. These bear a striking resem- blance to the granite columns in the City Hall of Philadelphia. Granite columns are scattered throughout the building, giving it a very substan- tial and attractive appearance. 102 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO, Skilled mechanics are employed, and the best machinery with all the newest improvements has been introduced, so that it may be said this factory is one of the best equipped in the world. The stock not only contains vehicles of every description, but also comprises a vast supply THE PULLMAN BUILDING. of horse-furnishing goods. Special attention is given to carriage repairs, and here many of the finest equipages in Chicago are made, and kept in the very best order, so that when they appear upon the streets and boulevards the display is dazzling. Fine horses and carriages PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. 103 abound in Chicago and the drives along the pleasant lake shore are unsurpassed. The Pullman Building. This stands at the southwest corner of Michigan Avenue and Adams Street. It is named after the celebrated inventor and manufacturer of the Pullman Palace Car, who is also the owner of this building. It is a solid ten-story structure of granite and brick. Although the walls are smooth and the ornamentation is centred upon a small part, yet the variously shaped windows, open spaces and large hallways, divide up the masses so as to produce a pleasing effect. Without having a pronounced style of architecture the edifice suggests some of the old buildings of the North German cities. An Imposing Structure. The basement is constructed of heavy squares of gray granite with rough surface. All the remaining part of the building is of brick with sparse terra-cotta ornaments. On the main facade on Adams Street the granite squares in the basement are replaced by nine beautiful but rather low pillars of polished granite which support on their palmetto capitals, eleven round arches, thus forming pretty arcades. These arcades and the whole fagade are in the middle interrupted by the interior court, which here opens into the street. The two halves are, however, con- nected with each other by the vestibule which is entered through a massive semi-circular arch reaching from one wall to the other. Another very effective part of the building is the four rows of loggias placed above one another and showing partly simple, partly interlaced arches. They begin on the fourth and fifth stories and are most effective on the fagade on Michigan Avenue where they form the upper half of the central section. The lower part is chiefly occupied by the entrance, a spacious flat arch on massive pillars which is, at the level of the first story, overtopped by a fine semi-circular arch. On the same side are, besides, two small balconies on the ninth story. The large arches over the entrance, which make an imposing impres- sion, with its heavy crowning richly decorated with terra-cotta, rest on massive pyramidic granite blocks. The ante-room is coated half way up with dull, grayish green granite slabs ; the remaining part is decorated with fine terra-cotta ornaments. The double staircase of white marble, showing sculptures at various places, is set off effectively from that dark material. The interior is decorated in the rich and solid manner charac- teristic of this class of new buildings. 104 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. The Temple. This is sometimes called the Temperance Temple, and was built by the Woman's Temperance Building Association. It affords one of the finest specimens of architecture in the city. THE TEMPLE. Its depth is 96 feet and it has a frontage of 190 feet on La Salle Street. The building cost $1,100,000, and the ground is said to be equally valu- able. The structure is a noble monument to the enterprise of the Temper- ance Women of the United States, who showed great enthusiasm in its erection and in procuring the amount of money necessary to warrant them in going ahead with their undertaking. PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. 105 The first two stories are faced with red granite, while the stories above these have a facing of red brick to correspond. On the La Salle Street side a lofty and imposing stone arch forms the main entrance, and the four corners presented to La Salle Street are rounded so as to suggest turrets. The building has two immense wings, which are united by a middle section called the vinculum. There are large interior courts for '.the admission of light and air, so that the building in this respect is simi- lar to other costly structures in which the matter of light and ventilation is carefully studied. The roof is steep and broken into terraces, forming three stories above the cornice. The style of architecture is French Gothic. The main part of the building is used for business purposes. On the first floor is a large hill adorned with a beautiful fountain, paintings and statues. There are large and convenient side rooms for holding meetings and furnishing accommodations to commit- tees. On this floor there are impressive suggestions of the great temperance struggle which has for years been car- ried on. The building is a central point of interest to visitors not only from the city itself but from all parts of the country. Masonic Temple. This is built in the modern style of architecture and has a frontage on State Street of 170 feet and 1 14 feet on Ran- dolph Street. It is one of the tallest buildings in the country, being twenty stories high and soaring to the height of 265 feet above the ground. For the first three stories Wisconsin granite is used, the upper stories being built of a gray fire-brick. Particular attention should be paid by the visitor to the main entrance which is much admired. A twelve-foot corridor on every floor runs around the interior of the building. The first sixteen stories are used for stores and offices, and the seventeenth and eighteenth stories are occupied by the Masonic Fraternity. The apartments of the Masonic Order are very costly and magnifi- cently furnished. A splendor suggestive of oriental royalty is exhibited in the furnishings. There are spacious parlors, banqueting halls and apart- ments for the Apollo Commandery to which the founders of the Temple belong. There are sixteen elevators running from the ground to the MASONIC TEMPLE. 106 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. upper stories, thus rendering all parts of the immense building easy of access. There is an inner court with marble slabs of various colors, tasteful mosaic floors throughout, a profusion of onyx and oakvvood, and beautiful bronze work on the staircases. Steam heat and electric lights are provided, while on the ground floor there is a large cafe and all accessories. The cost of the building and ground is said to have been $3,500,000, affording another example of the liberal expenditure made on public buildings in Chicago. Palmer House. The external appearance of this remarkable building is such that it is a wonder to strangers and a "joy forever" to the citizens. Its con- struction was commenced in July, 1871. The plan of the Palmer House was only evolved after several plans had been submitted to the proprie- tor, Mr. Potter Palmer, by the best Chicago architects, and after he had, with the architect selected for the purpose, traveled over Europe and availed himself not only of the hints of the architects there but of the ideas to be gathered from the finest hotels in that center of civilization and luxury. The best hotels in Europe at that time were the Grand, at Paris, and the Beau Rivage d'Angleterre at Geneva. Mr. Palmer's determination was to eclipse them all, and the unanimous opinion of travelers is that he has done it. The substantial points characteristic of this hotel are the massiveness and solidity with which it is built. The edifice contains 17,000,000 bricks, of which over 1,000,000 go into partition walls. There are about 90,000 square feet of marble tiling in the floors of the build- ing, and all the flooring is laid upon massive beds of cement, supported by beams brought from Belgium, with intervening arches of corrugated iron. The precautions against fire are, in all respects, very complete. There are also about this hotel many novel and exceptionally thorough arrange- ments for admitting light liberally everywhere, avoiding unpleasant kitchen and closet odors, etc., which cannot be particularized here. The dimensions of the building are, on State Street, 254 feet ; on Monroe Street, 250 feet, and on Wabash Avenue, 131 feet. Total area covered, 72,500 square feet. This is necessarily divided up by courts, and of these, the carriage court, entered by porles cocheres from three streets, is 90 by 1 20 feet in dimensions. The facings of the several fronts are of gray sandstone, with the first story and entresol of massive iron castings which alone cost $100,000. Of the facing stone, 160,000 cubic feet were used. The peculiarity which, after all, most impresses the visitor, is the more than palatial richness of the interior finish. The immense office of the 107 10$ PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. hotel, 64 by io6feet and 24 feet in height, is wainscoted everywhere with Italian marble, studded with panels of remarkably rich rose brocatello marble, many of the natural mosaics exhibited in these panels being of rare and curious beauty. The wainscoting of the counter is the same. The next feature on which the wealth of the builder has been most con- spicuously lavished is the grand staircase of Carrara marble, springing from the ground to the uppermost floor, and constructed upon that won- derful self-supporting plan, whereby each step has only to be fixed at one end the whole stretching outward from the wall, with apparently no support at all. The principle is a variation of the keystone, and is applied in only one other instance in America Girard College. Some idea of the startling weight thus suspended in mid air may be conjectured from the fact that at each landing (of 4> which there are several to each story) there is a square block weighing 5,200 pounds. The intermediate stairs are of solid blocks, and weigh perhaps 1,200 pounds each. The total cost of the edifice is $2,000,000. The style of the furnishings is corre- spondingly elegant, and the bill for that item was not less than $500,000. All the front rooms, up to the fourth or fifth floor, are furnished with satin or velvet upholstery, Wilton or moquette carpets, and have elegantly clocks of bronze, gilt or ormolu, dining room and other sallcs contiguously to each other, The principal dining room, GREAT NORTHERN HOTEL. carved mantels, on which stand with other ornaments to match. The a manger, five in number, are located and have a total area of 12,033 square feet. 64 by 76 feet in size, is arranged so as to suggest an open Italian court, the sweep of the eye being relieved by massive fluted columns extending around the room as if supporting piazzas. There are 708 rooms in the Palmer House, and the electric apparatus by which the occupants of each communicate with the office, includes nearly 100 miles of wire. From 1,000 to 2,400 guests are usually accom- modated in this, one of the largest and costliest hotels in the world. The PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO, 109 new Palmer House was opened in the year 1873 by Mr. Potter Palmer, who was then, and is now, the sole proprietor and manager. The traveler can have his choice of plans while stopping at the Palmer either the American or European. In connection with the Palmer House are the famous bath house and barber shop, said to surpass anything of the kind in the United States, if not in the world. They merit a visit of inspection by strangers who desire to see the highest style of art bestowed on such places of convenience. The Leland Hotel. This building has six stories, besides the basement and contains 216 rooms. The reputation of the house is such that it enjoys an extensive patronage. The situation is all that could be desired. Fronting on LELAND HOTEL, CHICAGO. Michigan Boulevard, the fashionable drive of the city, within full view of the lake and Lake Park, it could hardly be better located. It is under excellent management ; the interior is more than comfortable, many of the apartments being fitted up luxuriously, and the popularity of the place is fully established. The guests receive polite attention, are well cared for and are very apt to return when business or pleasure calls them to the city. South Park Avenue M. E. Church. This is a beautiful structure, built of square stone. It has a fine spire, and the architecture shows a free use of Norman and Romanesque forms. The entrance, a low semi-circular arch, is on the main facade 110 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. on South Park Avenue. Another entrance is on Thirty-third Street, in an additional structure placed before the tower and crowned with a bal- cony. The ten large semi-circular windows in the side walls are orna- mented with stained glass and separated by strong buttresses reaching to the roof. The tower on the northeast corner, with its unique finial, SOUTH PARK AVENUE M. E. CHURCH. reminds one of the barbicans of the mediaeval castles and boroughs. Ris- ing from the angles at the top are four round turrets which are at their base encircled by a common wall. Each of the walls between has two lower windows in front of which is a balustrade of open work masonry. The pinnacle of the tower is a low quadrangular pyramid with rounded corners. PUBLIC BUILDINGS AMU INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. Ill The interior has 1,500 seats rising as in an amphitheatre, and a beauti- ful gallery. The wainscoting of the ceiling and the woodwork of the SOUTH CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH, HYDE PARK. seats, etc., is of oak and California cedar. The walls show simple decora- tions on a ground of light terra-cotta, producing an excellent effect. 312 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. The South Congregational Church stands in an excellent location and is one of the finest church edifices in Chicago. A considerable part of its beauty is due to its architecture, which is Romanesque. Another part of its attractive appearance is due to the material with which it is made ; this is gray, prairie stone with a rough surface. It is well situated in one of the best portions of the city. The shape of the ground on which it stands being irregular, the plan of the building is also irregular, so that the main audience room is a rectangle with a right- angle vestibule attached to it. The front facing the boulevard has a tower at each corner, between which is a semi-circular arched entrance with heavy canopy. Above this a fine Romanesque window adds to the beauty of the structure. The most impressive part of the building is the tower in the southeast corner. The first oart of it is in the shape of a drum and contains five THE ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGO. semi-circular arched windows. Above this, in their proper places, are massive buttresses which enlarge toward their bases and extend into free round columns on which are placed four wide arches, forming the spacious belfry. This has a balustrade of stone in open-work. The pinnacle is a slated pyramid and from the corners of the base rise four small cones. The northern tower is simpler in style and lower. It is all the way cylindrical and ends in a cone. The interior of the church is simple, and at the same time elegant and imposing. The wood_ carving of the pews, doors and rafters is a special feature. The interior is beautifully ornamented with stained glass windows in the transept. The Art Institute. This building has sprung up from the ruins of the Old Exposition Building, which, for so many years, was a landmark in the City of Chicago. PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. 113 It is delightfully located, having an uninterrupted view of the lake on the east and facing Michigan Avenue on the west. It has a frontage of 320 feet, and the main body measures 175 feet, which, with projections, approximates 208 feet. The main entrance faces Adams Street, and is built in white marble. The grand staircase, together with the central wing, is the most striking feature, being in a case of about 50 feet square and of most beautiful workmanship. The vestibule is in marble and mosaic, and the entrance hall in marble with mosaic floors and ceiling. Arched openings connect this with the galleries on either side. There are two galleries, the first devoted to plaster casts, sculpture, busts and models, and the second to pictures. The main galleries are 27 feet wide, the second 12 feet wide The lecture room is one side of the grand staircase and seats i.ooo per- sons ; the other side is the library. It is fire-proof of course, arrangements being made to cover the fire- proof partitions with planks of suitable thickness, so that pictures can be hung wherever taste and good judgment may dictate. It is classic in design and, exclusive ofr land, cost between $600,000 and. $800,000. Grand Central Depot. The site of this building is Fifth Avenue and Harrison Street. The station is used by the Northern Pacific Depot, Chicago and Great West- ern, Baltimore and Ohio and Wisconsin Central. It is the largest and finest station in Chicago, and one of the largest in the country. At all hours of the day and night it is thronged with passengers and the con- venience of having a central depot for a number of roads is indicated by the immense traffic. The exterior of the station is plain and unpretentious. It is the prop- erty of the Chicago and Northern Pacific Railroad, which is the only road having a through track of its own from Chicago to the Pacific Coast. The building was begun in October, 1888, and was opened for business December 8th, 1890. It has a frontage of 680 feet on Fifth Avenue and 226 feet on Harrison Street. It covers three and a half acres of ground, yet is none too spacious for the amount of business done. Part of the building is seven stories high and the remaining part is four stories. There is a tower 212 feet high containing a clock, and a bell which is larger than any other in the United States with one excep- tion. The weight of its hammer is 706 pounds. The dial of the tower clock is thirteen and one-half feet in diameter. The main waiting room is 207 feet long by 71 wide, and the ceiling is supported by two rows of massive marble columns. The floors and 114 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. some parts of the facings are also of marble. The station is provided with ladies' parlors, dining-rooms, smoking room, reading room, barber shop, etc. Every possible arrangement is made for the comfort of trav- elers. The basement of the tower, which has entrances from both streets, serves as a vestibule for the waiting room. The train-shed is 560 feet long. It is vaulted by one wide arch, and being mainly covered with glass it is well lighted and pleasant. Only one train-shed in the country is larger, and that is the one connected with the Grand Central Depot in New York. The particular feature of GRAND CENTRAL DEPOT. the station is the electric plant under the platform which furnishes elec- tricity for regulating the switches, and closing the bars at a distance. Each of the roads using the station has its separate track, offices, etc., thus preventing all confusion in the arrival or departure of the trains. The cost of the depot was about $1,000,000. Lake Shore and Michigan Southern Depot. The history of this magnificent trunk line is practically the history of railroad construction in the United States. Its inception dates back to 1833, the commencement of the railroad building period in this country, PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. 115 and every rail that has been added in the extension of the original road since that time has its own story to tell of the westward and onward pro- gress of civilization, the settlement of the waste places, the birth and growth of villages and towns, the peopling of great cities and the pros- perity of half a continent The Lake Shore and Michigan Southern railway may well be called the great east and west artery of the nation, as it has done more toward infusing the blood of life into the immense stretch of territory that is washed by the great inland seas than any other force employed by man during the past century. The Lake Shore and Michigan Southern Railroad Company, as it exists to-day, was LAKE SHORE AND MICHIGAN SOUTHERN DEPOT. organized in 1869. The road is part of, and one of the most important links in, the famous " Vanderbilt system." The site of the building is between Van Buren, Harrison, Sherman Streets and Pacific Avenue. The material is yellow stone with a rough surface and the front, facing Van Buren Street, is flanked by two seven- story towers. The structure is complete in all conveniences for the travelling public. Chicago is well supplied with places of entertainment. These include concert halls, theatres and cycloramas. Some years ago an attempt was made to locate a permanent dramatic company in the city. Judged by 116 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF CHICAGO. the receipts at the box office the effort did not meet with any great encouragement. Money rules the world, and as no individual or dram- atic association in Chicago felt under obligation to provide entertain- ments that did not pay for themselves the attempt was given up. Still Chicago has always had its first-class theatres, and the great actors and actresses of the world have achieved here some of their most signal triumphs. Of late years travelling plays have taken the place of the old stock companies, an arrangement which undoubtedly fur- nishes a better class of entertainments than was formerly offered to the public. It is interesting to note as matter of his- tory that the first per- formance in Chicago at which an admit- tance fee was charged was given on Feb- ruary 24, 1834, by a certain Bowers, who fed upon fire, drank soup of melted lead, which he ladled into his mouth with a red- hot spoon, and did various other wonder- ful things that must have appeared to his audience very startling in their character, for the reason that he did not take the trouble to explain his tricks and tell how they were done. '' To such introduction, there could be but one sequence ; having once tasted the mysterious and thrilling pleasures of fire-eating, ventriloquism and the itinerant circus, with speckled clown and sawdust arena in all their fabled glory how could search for pleasure stop short of the real dram- atic stage itself?" The names of the standard theatres are well known, and it is only necessary here to mention the new Schiller Theatre, which has all mod- ern improvements and is a very attractive place of amusement. CHAPTER V. Parks, Boulevards and Other Points of Interest. M ORE than twenty years ago a grand system of parks was laid out which has given to Chicago the name of the " Garden City." It is well that this system was planned long ago, for if it had been left until the present time the great value of land would have persuaded a large number of citizens that Chicago could do without parks, and that, instead of being necessaries, they would be superfluous luxuries. Although the air of Chicago is fresh from the great lake on the one side and the open prairies on the other, yet every large city needs its patches of green, affording as it were a taste of the country and furnishing breathing places for all classes of people. London calls her parks the lungs of the city. Chicago is well supplied with lungs, and her system of parks when completed will afford some of the finest drives and boulevards in the world. At the present time the parks include 1,879 acres f land, and the connecting boulevards when finished will have a total length of twenty miles. This does not include the considerable number of small parks and squares in various parts of the city which are patronized extensively by the resi- dents of the neighborhoods in which they are located. Commissioners appointed by the State have charge of the park system, the funds needed by them being furnished principally by direct tax upon the city. Thus, Lincoln Park and the West Shore drive are under control of a separate commission, as are other parks situated on the west and south sides respectively. Of course, a constant growth and improvement are observed in these inviting patches of country planted in the heart of the great city. They appear more attractive from year to year. Taste is displayed in the arrangement of walks, flower-beds and fountains, while all the choice varieties of trees, plants and flowering shrubs which will grow in this climate are cultivated. Lincoln Park. The visitor will guess at once how this park obtained its name, although it is only one of many objects of interest which Chicago has to remind one of the martyred president. The southern portion of the present park was formerly occupied by the old Chicago Cemetery ; this 117 118 fARKS, BOULEVARDS AND OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST. Was at length condemned on account of being so near the thickly set- tled portion of the city and the bodies were removed. In 1869, a com- mission was appointed to turn this ground into a park and make improvements by additional territory. The space occupied is about 250 acres, the park being about half a mile wide by one and one-half miles long. The great charm of it is that it is bounded on the east by the lake. Lincoln Park is the most complete of the entire system. Twenty acres of lakes within the park afford fine landscape views ; beautiful lawns stretch away in all directions ; flower beds, enriched with all the colors of the rainbow, charm the eye ; bronze statues of celebrities occupy well chosen sites ; winding drives conduct the visitor from point to point, showing him all the attrac- tions of noble trees, verdant .shrub- bery, walks and avenues, which com- bined may be said to form a panorama of the beauties of nature made effective by the art of the land- scape gardener. This popular place of resort is also furnished with a refreshment pavilion which stands near the shore of the largest lake, where a supply of boats is always provided. There is also an interesting zoological collection, very attractive to the little people who never tire of watching the 'antics of the various animals. In the summer season entertainments are furnished by donations from the liberal citizens residing in the neighbor- hood. Among the bronze statues is one of Schiller, erected by the Ger- man citizens in 1886 on the anniversary of the great poet's death. It stands at the south end of the large flower beds. The bronze Indian group of life size erected on a massive granite pedestal is well worth inspecting. A statue of Lincoln above life size stands near the entrance at Clark Street and North Avenue. Passing along the shore of the lake the visitor sees the Grant Monument, an imposing granite structure from the base of which may be obtained a fine view of the lake. This is an equestrian monument to General Grant and was erected by the city in 1891. These statues, together with the residence of the late General John A. Logan, are points of great interest to strangers and are visited by throngs of sight-seers. HON. JOHN A. LOGAN. PARKS, BOULEVARDS AND OTHER fOINTS OF INTEREST. 119 Perhaps the chief attraction is the electric fountain, better called the " Luminous Fountain," which, when it is in operation, is a miracle of light and beauty. The Paris Exhibition of 1889 had a fountain of this description, which was one of the great attractions. The Visitor perceives an immense basin at Lincoln Park with pipes in the centre. The" bronze plate on one side shows the name of the donator Charles E. Yerkds. We' will not attempt to explain here the arrangement of the pipes and rnachiri* cry by which the effect is produced. The illuminating apparatus Is Irigeri^ iously constructed and has been made to work successfully. A room" forty-five feet square is under the basin, and here the electric light is produced. THE LATE JOHN A. LOGAN'S RESIDENCE IN CHICAGO. Five colors red, blue, purple, green and yellow are used either separately or together, producing by their skillful combinations a great variety of wonderful effects. When the fountain plays a powerful central jet often rises to a height of eighty feet. A large number of lofty jets, rising half that distance, surround it, and these at the top are combined in a cloud of vapors which exhibit all the colors of the rainbow. Some- times the smaller jets have colors different from that of the central jet, and in this case the sight is especially fine. Thus the central jet may appear flaming red, shooting up like a column of liquid fire, while the 120 PARKS. BOULEVARDS AND OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST. 121 other jets have the various colors of the prism, forming a combination of tints and sparkling jets of water that is very striking. Then the colors are made to change; the outside jets are silvery, resembling a fountain of diamonds, while the central jet is turned to magnificent gold. The combinations of light, color and beauty seem to be endless, and the eye is constantly entranced with the variations. The visitor can stand for hours before this superb spectacle, which is one of the most attractive on which the eye ever gazed. Popular Sports. One of the most remarkable improvements of late years and a real ornament to the city is the Lincoln Park sea-wall. Heavy waves having several years ago damaged the strand of the park and the carriage road running alongside it and flooded parts of the park, the repetition of such an occurrence was prevented by constructing a quay. Next to this is a splendid promenade sixteen feet wide, covered with large slabs of cement and bordered by a few stone steps twelve feet above the surface of the water. The remaining part of the quay is occupied by the macadamized carriage road, forty- five feet wide, and bordered by flower-beds toward the inland water. This sheet of water, about 175 feet wide, and extending between the park shore and the quay, is intended to serve for rowing as well as for steamboat landing, for which latter pur- pose there is, opposite to the Yerkes fountain, an opening through the quay to Lake Michigan. Chicago oarsmen hold their annual regattas here, and the occasion is one of the noted events of the year. Enthusiastic adherents of the naval clubs, admiring personal friends, fond relatives and anxious sweethearts encourage the sparsely clad oarsmen with their presence, and the contests are generally close and very exciting. In the winter season when the lakes of Lincoln Park are frozen over they attract crowds of skaters and present a very animated scene. It frequently happens that the ice is in excellent condition, and if this should happen on a Saturday when the public schools are not in session, or on a holiday when the factories and places of business are closed, thousands of persons visit the lakes to take part in the sport. The skat- ing facilities are ample in the vicinity of Chicago and afford one of the most popular out-door amusements. Humboldt Park. This is the most northerly park in the system and has a greater eleva- tion than any of the others. It comprises about two hundred acres of open prairie land. It has many natural advantages, being well wooded 122 PARKS, BOULEVARDS AND OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST. 123 and is furnished with lawns, avenues, walks and drives, which render the place very attractive. There is a large lake front that affords ample facilities for rowing, and this park is a popular resort for oarsmen. One of the features of the place is a celebrated artesian well 1,155 feet in depth, from which is derived an excellent grade of mineral water abound- ing in sulphates, chlorides and carbonates. GRANT MONUMENT IN LINCOLN PARK. Another feature is the conservatory. Having a warm and cold side a great variety of plants can be cultivated, including both the hardy growths and tropical flowers. There is also a cupola for palms and tropical plants. The visitor is struck with the beauty of the lawns which are fine specimens of landscape gardening. The endeavor to 124 PARKS, BOULEVARDS AND OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST. make the park appear as if all its points of interest were natural and not artificial has been quite successful, and the visitor is very liable while walking or riding through it to be under the illusion that nature has done the work which has been really performed by man. The pavilion is the chief point of attraction and is a place of constant resort. What are known as the South Parks comprise Washington and Jack- son and Midway Plaisance, which connects the two former. Already these parks have become popular, and are frequented by multitudes, who are eager to get a glimpse of something in the town, which has the fresh ness and beauty of the country. The liberal spirit of the city was shown in pur- chasing the grounds for these parks at an expense of $3,208,000 and the improvements swelled this to a much larger sum. Washington Park lies nearly six miles south and east from the City Hall, and is bounded by Fifty-first Street, Kankakee Avenue, Sixtieth St. and Cottage Grove Avenue, a space of 371 acres, somewhat over a mile west from the lake. The extent of the grounds has given an opportunity for breadth of treatment which the landscape artists have not neglected. Among the most attractive features are the " Meadow," a famous stretch of sward, covering 100 acres; the " Mere," a meandering sheet of picturesquely distributed water, thirteen acres in extent; the conserva- tory, a handsome building 40 by 120 feet, comprising nine propagating houses and a cactus house, and containing an interesting collection of tropical plants the artesian well, 1,643 feet deep, which furnishes a mineral water ; and the stable, built of stone, in the shape of a Greek SKATING IN LINCOLN PARK. 125 126 PARKS, BOULEVARDS AND OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST. cross, to accommodate over 100 horses, the stalls being arranged circu- larly about a central space, into which the phaetons with their loads are driven when horses are to be changed. This stable covers a space of 325 by 200 feet, measured through its greatest diameters, and shelters the 130 fine Norman blooded horses owned by the Commission. Flow- ers are tastefully distributed at the most effective points throughout the park, 170,000 plants being propagated and set out annually. Boats may be hired for rowing on the Mere, and lunches maybe had at the " Retreat," in which is also the superintendent's office. Finally there is a zoological collection well worth seeing, and afternoon concerts are usually given at frequent intervals through the summer months during the season, from about June I to the middle of October, or later. Phaetons leave the cottage, corner of Drexel and Oakwood Boule- vards, every twenty minutes, from 9 A. M. to 7 P. M., except on Sun- days, when the service is increased to every ten minutes, from I to 8 P. M. Fare for the round trip (about seven miles) is 30 cents ; children under ten years of age, 1 5 cents. One objective point is the park Retreat ; but the round trip is made through Drexel, Grand and Oakwood Boulevards and Washington Park. The park Retreat, like the phaeton service, is under the immediate charge of the Park Commissioners. It is conducted as a cafe, not as a restaur- ant, and the prices are the same as in the city. The race track of Washington Park is said to be one of the finest in the world, and in all probability few are better patronized. Grand Boulevard. Few modern cities are so favored as Chicago in spacious streets and fine driveways. A commendable foresight, which took into account the rapid growth of the city and the splendid proportions it was destined to assume, provided for boulevards which are now among the chief attractions. Paris is not more famous for its Triumphal Arch, its Louvre and magnificent Churches than it is for its avenues. Chicago has been learning a lesson from the famous cities of the Old World. The Grand Boulevard is the western entrance to Washington Park. It is 200 feet wide, and is bordered by a double colonnade of elms and strips of green turf, rendering it a fine avenue for promenaders which they fully appreciate, as is shown by the thousands who on a pleasant day may be seen along the thoroughfare. There is an excellent roadbed for driving and on the western side a strip is reserved for equestrians. One part is, by common consent, used for speeding fast horses. It is one of the most fashionable drives in the city, and the expectations of 128 PARKS, BOULEVARDS AND OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST. the Commissioner have been much more than realized by the eagerness with which the public have sought the Grand Boulevard as a place for recreation. It is crowded sometimes for a space of two miles with carriages three abreast. Beautiful residences, churches and other public buildings stand on each side. Drexel Boulevard. Like the boulevard already described the Drexel is 200 feet wide, divided as follows : Fifteen feet of side-walk, forty feet of roadway at the side of the planting place in the centi;e,which is ninety feet wide. It is modelled after one of the most celebrated avenues in Paris. Only plea- sure carriages are admitted, heavy vehicles of every description being excluded. The first steps for constructing this boulevard were taken in 1870; purchases were made and the work of construction was soon after com- menced. Much taste is shown in laying out flower gardens and walks. There is an absence of monotony, and the care bestowed upon the planting surface which is considerably above the road grade, is seen in the great variety of beautiful effects. There are rustic seats and bowers, fountains and circular spaces. Hard blue clay forms the material for the walks, and the drives are gravel on a graded surface. In short, what- ever will add to the beauty of the avenue has been carefully thought of, and the result is one of the most charming avenues in the country. One of the interesting features is the line of stately elms which the owners of the property on each side of the street have planted four feet inside the building lines. These are already suggestive of those famous New England villages and cities, such as New Haven, where the elms are a most attractive ornament. No villages more beautiful are to be found anywhere. At the intersection of Drexel Avenue is a magnificent bronze fountain presented by the Misses Drexel, of Philadelphia, in memory of their father, after whom the boulevard was named. This is a conspicuous ornament, and is not only costly and beautiful, but is useful in furnishing a supply of water for the multitudes who throng the place. Time will improve this very pretty boulevard ; in fact, all great avenues must have time in which to perfect them. Thi work is not done in a day, the trees do not grow in one season, the palatial residences are not erected between two suns. The only wonder is that in a town so new as Chicago, one that is really but little more than fifty years old, there should be so many full-grown improvements and attractions that are commonly found only in the older cities, 129 130 PARKS, BOULEVARDS AND OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST. Some of the well-known features of the Grand Boulevard are the " Mound," in which are displayed the most elaborate designs and con- trasts of floral coloring ; the " Sphinxes " and " Monument," wrought in fine detail from the growing cacti ; the " Sun Dial," formed of the same plant and showing the correct solar time ; the " Elephant," also wrought from cacti ; the American Flag in correct colors of coleus and other foliage plants; with many other tasteful and beautiful designs. Haymarket Monument. On the West Side on Randolph Street, in Chicago's early years, stood the West Side market house, one portion of which was used as a police station. But for many years the square has been entirely open, and the Randolph Street cars pass through it from east to west. Approaching this, the celebrated Haymarket Square, from the east, the traveler per- ceives directly at the intersection of Randolph and Desplaines streets, the figure of a bronze policeman in full uniform, with the right hand upraised, and in letters of gold, on the polished granite pedestal, this inscription : " In the name of the people of Illinois, I command peace." This monument was erected by the grateful citizens of Chicago in memory of the brave officers who sacrificed their lives and health in defense of the law, and whose cruel and cowardly murder sounded the death knell of anarchy in this city and country. The tragedy did not really take place in the square itself, but the mob covered the whole northeast corner of the square, and extended north along Desplaines Street, encircling a wagon in front of Crane Brothers' steps, between the alley runing east from Desplaines Street and Randolph Street. On this wagon, about ten feet from the alley, the anarchist speakers stood when they addressed the crowd. On the night of May 4, 1886, six companies of policemen were detailed from the police station on Desplaines Street, south of Randolph, to disperse the mob, because inflammatory speeches and unreasoning accusations of those in authority were fast ripening the mob for violence and worse. The police came on at quickstep, in close order, by com- panies. When close to the wagon they halted, and the commanding officer ordered their dispersion in the memorable words upon the monu- ment. Hardly had he finished, when, as if in answer of defiance, a dynamite bomb whizzed through trie air from the mouth of the alley. Falling between the second and third companies of policemen, it performed its awful mission, killing outright, or wounding fatally, seven policemen. Many others were seriously injured. The method of attack showed the dastardly cowardice of the sneaking thrower, who endangered THE HAYMARKET MONUMENT. 131 132 PARKS, BOULEVARDS AND OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST. his friends, and women who were in the crowd, in his effort to demon- strate his cruel power. It is supposed, with good reason, that he went east to a blind alley running to Randolph Street, thence south to Randolph, and there mingling with the crowd, disappeared effectually from public view. It is not known how many of the mob were slain by the bomb, or the return fire of the police, for their friends, following the customs of the savages whose blood-thirstiness they manifested, carried away their dead and wounded, and quietly buried the former, and such of the latter as afterwards died, lest testimony should accu- mulate against them. The ringleaders, Fielden, Spies, Engel, Lingg, Neebe, Schwab, and Fisher were arrest- ed. The Arbeiter Zd- tuiig office near Wash- ington Street, on the east side of Fifth Avenue, was searched. An im- mense supply of dyna- mite, aims, bombs, and infernal machines was found there. Bombs were discovered in other parts of the city, in lum- ber yards, under side- walks, and in the homes of anarchists. Parsons, like the coward he was, got away from the city; for a while he successfully concealed himself, and then, in a sensational hurrah, he surrendered, in the idea that he could bulldoze the people of the great State of Illinois into an acquittal. Then came the long trial, in which justice gave ample opportunity to these traitors to the country which had given them the "apostles of unrest," and refugees from the laws of their native lands a home, to prove any extenuating circumstances whatever. Nothing could be offered but an infernal desire for blood, and an insane craving for notoriety. The records exist in the archives of the courts, of the speeches; of the finding of the jury; the sentence, which voiced the DREXEL FOUNTAIN. 134 PARKS, BOULEVARDS AND OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST. sentiment of the whole American people who love order and respect law ; of the appeal to the Supreme Court, and its refusal to interfere. Then came frantic efforts to have the death sentence commuted, but nothing stayed the hand of justice, nor the coming of the eleventh day of November, 1887, the day of execution. The "tiger anarchist," Lingg, to escape the gallows, inserted a small dynamite cartridge in his mouth and blew his head off. Parsons, Spies, Engel, and Fisher died on the gallows, but Fielden, Schwab, and Neebe went to the penitentiary, the first two for life. The popular excitement hardly quieted a moment for the whole eighteen months. The executed anarchists lie in Wald- heim Cemetery, where those who desire chaos, and dislike peace and harmony, make pilgrimages to air their obstinacy. The cell in which Lingg commited sui- cide is in " murderers' row," directly opposite the " cage," in the county jail. The rest of the condemned anarchists occupied cells along this row. Some years ago a valuable plot of ground was present- ed to Chicago by the Hon. Stephen A. Douglas. Mr. Douglas was one of the most distinguished men cf the country, and received from Illinois the honor of a seat in the United States Senate. At his death it was felt that his name should be honored by some permanent memorial, both on account of his gift to the city and the distinguished services he had rendered to the State. Groveland and Woodlawn parks adjoin each other, and face the grounds of the old Chicago University. The parks lie between Cottage Grove Avenue and the lake beyond Thirty-third Street. These with the University grounds were the gift of Mr. Douglas, and here was built the monument to commemorate his name and deeds. The DOUGLAS MONUMENT. PARKS, BOULEVARDS AND OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST. 135 mausoleum containing his remains is of granite, and the magnificent shaft rising above it to the height of 104 feet is also of granite. Surmounting the shaft is a life-like bronze statue of Mr. Douglas, while four-corner pedestals are occupied by figures representing " Illinois," " History," " Justice " and " Eloquence." The marble sarcophagus in the crypt bears on its side the following inscription: " Stephen A. Douglas, born April 23, 1813 ; died June 3, 1861. * Tell my children to obey the law? and uphold the Constitution.' " This imposing memorial of the great Senator was erected at a cost of $100,000. The ingenious method for obtaining a good supply of fresh water for the city has already been referred to. At the outset it was not supposed that the site of Chicago, which was really a swamp, was the most healthful location for a city, and therefore additional atten- tion was paid to the water supply. It is one of the simplest facts in the science of hygiene that impure water means disease and death. But for a long time it was a problem as to how the city could obtain pure water. The early settlers could go to the lake or river; at length the lake shore became filthy, and so did the river. In 1 834 the Board of Trustees paid $95.50 STEPHEN A. DOUGLAS. for digging a well, and this was the first expenditure of money toward meeting the wants of the town. As late as 1842 water-peddlers used to come through the streets, and those who were particularly fas- tidious could procure their supply by buying it. During this year the Chicago Hydraulic Works were completed and began to pump water from the lake into the houses. A reservoir was attached to the works, about two miles of wood pipe were laid, and a tvventy-five-horse power engine drew the water from the lake. This clumsy method, which was not really adequate to the wants of the town, especially in case of fire, could not long survive, for the reason that it was anything but the " fittest." 136 PARKS, BOULEVARDS AND OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST. New works were commenced in 1854. Improved machinery was introduced, yet the growth of the city finally rendered the works inade- quate to the demands, and it was found necessary in 1863 to take active measures for procuring an increased supply. The plan which was adopted was successful, and the water supply of the city is now brought from a point in the lake several miles distant from the shore. In 1887, a con- CHICAGO WATER WORKS. tract was entered into for the construction of a new tunnel to be eight feet in diameter and to extend four miles out into the lake. Thus it will be seen that unless Lake Michigan fails the water supply will not. It is simply a question of engines, pumps and water pipes. There is no reason why the city should not be well furnished the year round. PARKS, BOULEVARDS AND OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST. 137 What is known as the Waterworks Crib is an interesting place to visit. Allusion has already been made to the plan for obtaining water, which embraced the construction of the tunnel two miles long to be dug out from the shore under the bottom of Lake Michigan, through which the pure water of the lake was to be brought into the city. The favor with which the plan was received was offset by the doubts and protests of many who did not consider it feasible, but the Legislature, in 1863, sanctioned it, and a year later it was approved by Congress. The first spade was put into, the ground March 17, 1864, with appropriate ceremonies. A Wonderful Piece of Engineering. Near the lake shore a shaft nine feet in diameter was sunk and secured by an iron cylinder. This was lowered to a depth of sixty-nine feet, and then the tunnel was started in a horizontal direction into the lake. This tunnel has a length of 10.587 feet. Fortunately the material encountered was tough clay, and the work of excavation was interrupted by but few layers of sand. The form of the tunnel is nearly round ; the masonry consists of an eight-inch thickness of brick. At the same time was begun, at the North Pier, at the mouth of the Chicago River, the construction of the Crib, which was to be let down into the water at the outer end of the tunnel, to contain and protect the receiving pipe. It was built very strong and water-tight, in the form of a low five- cornered column, forty feet high and ninety-eight and one-half feet in circumference, of twelve-inch oak and spruce beams. The five corners were heavily plated with iron for the purpose of strengthening the Crib and protecting it against ice. In July, 1 865, the completed monster was launched amid great rejoicing, piloted to ks destination, brought into position, and sunk by letting water into the flood gates. Then its wall-chambers were well filled with stone, and anchored to the ground by means of Mitchell's marine mooring screws, such as were used in the Thames tunnel. After the central divi- sion had been pumped clear of water, the lake shaft was dug, from the bottom cf the Crib, to the necessary depth of twenty-seven feet. The shaft was lined with an iron cylinder two and one-half inches thick and nine feet in diameter, and on January i, 1866, the other end of the tunnel was begun from its bottom. The work progressed from both ends by day and night, and after four- fifths of the distance had been dug from the shore, and one-fifth from the Crib, the two parts met November 30, 1866. This completed a work which the London Times called the greatest of modern times. At the PARKS, BOULEVARDS AND OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST. Paris Exposition of 1867, the great work was distinguished by the award of a medal. Tunnel and Crib were cemented within, and a light-tower and a watchman's dwelling were erected on the latter. The Crib was then protected by a break-water erected around it. The internal finish- ing of the tunnel was so well done, that when examined in 1882, not the slightest rent was found. London has her tunnel under the river Thames, and why should there not be tunnels under the river in Chicago ? With the growth of the city the river has become a waterway of great importance; at the same time it has been a pro- blem as to how the river could be used and a sufficient number of bridges could be pro- vided for the accom- modation of the people. Finally it was said: " Why should bridges alone be used ? Why not dig down and go under the river as well as over it ? If the river will not accommodate itself to man, man must outwit the river. It a pity if one little stream must interrupt free com- munication between the different parts of the city." To a wide-awake Chicagoan, hurrying to per cent., with visions WATERWORKS CRTB. business, bent on making a hundred of a fortune floating before his eyes, it makes very little difference how he gets from one side of a river to the other. If he cannot go over he would willingly crawl under. And so the city began to talk about making tunnels, digging out holes under the river and arching them, so that foot passengers and vehicles could go through without being in danger of having the river overhead come through. The average citizen of Chicago believes nothing to be impossible, and is fully persuaded that he will yet cross the river in a flying machine, and 140 PARKS, BOULEVARDS AND OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST. will have no use for either tunnels or bridges The idea of boring holes in the ground, thus connecting the different parts of the city, did not stagger him in the least. The work was commenced and carried forward. Two tunnels were constructed, one at Washington Street and the other at La Salle Street. These were the first, and it was understood that if they were a success others would follow. The two tunnels, however, did not come into general use, for the reason that the swing bridges were so constructed that they could be handled quickly. Turning the Tunnels into Thoroughfares. Still the western man does not like to be interrupted ; if he is going anywhere he is averse to standing still, even for an instant. To be com- pelled to stop just as he gets to a bridge and see it swing around, so that if he should attempt to go forward he would land in the river, by which his appearance would be spoiled and his business interfered with, was not a thing that afforded him any special satisfaction. Some inconveni- ence, however, must be put up with, for the reason that rivers are likely to take their own course, and nature is not always ready to accommo- date herself to the traveling public. When the cable-car system was adopted it was immediately seen that the two tunnels already built could be turned to good account. These tunnels were constructed for the city, and before the cable-car company secured the privilege of using them they were mere holes in the ground and represented the waste of so much money. The old saying of "putting money into a hole in the ground" was literally realized in this case. In consideration of the city allowing the Cable Car Company to use the La Salle Street tunnel, the company built and donated to the city two double, steel, steam bridges across the river, one at Wells and the other at Clark Street at a cost of over $300,000. The Washington Street tunnel was in a much worse condition than the other, in fact, had been abandoned, and before it could be used had to be rebuilt at a cost of nearly $200,000. Both tunnels are now totally unlike what they were a few years ago, and the public not only recog- nizes the wisdom of their present use, but finds in them a remedy for the interruption to travel and the vexatious delays at the swing-bridges, which is worth additional hundreds of thousands of dollars to the city every year. These holes in the ground that remained for a long time unused are now helping to solve the problem of rapid transit. Indeed, they are a suggestion of the underground system of railways, such as in London have proved to be a great success, fur there, while the larger part of the city is above ground, another considerable part is always PARKS, BOULEVARDS AND OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST. 141 travelling underneath, and at such a rate as renders it possible to pass from one part of the great metropolis to another in a short space of time. For the use of the cable-car system, one of the power-houses is located at the corner of Jefferson and Washington Streets. This station WEST APPROACH TO WASHINGTON STREET TUNNEL. is furnished with two 5OO-horse-power Wetherell-Corliss engines, which are used to operate the Washington Street tunnel loop. The cars of both the Madison Street and Milwaukee Avenue lines are delivered to the cable at this station, and by it they are drawn through the tunnel PARKS, BOULEVARDS AND OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST. 143 and around the loop. The service of this particular cable is very exact- ing. At times the heavily loaded trains are but a few seconds apart, yet there is seldom, if ever, any cause for complaint, so perfect are all the details and so elaborate the machinery and appliances. The dynamos for lighting the tunnel are also located at this point, as is also the base of an electric signal system which extends along the several cable lines. By this system the conductor or gripman can com- municate with the power-houses and offices at any time, which is an adjunct of almost incalculable advantage in keeping the tracks clear and promptly stopping the machinery in case of accidents from any cause. Harbor of Chicago. Chicago is a commercial town, and has a larger commerce than one would suppose possible to any town not situated on the seaboard. It must be borne in mind, that our great inland lakes form an ocean by themselves, and perhaps there is no water surface in the world the same size as that of Lake Michigan, on which is done a larger business. The necessity for a convenient and commodious harbor of Chicago was made apparent many years ago, and the necessary steps were taken to secure it. All river and harbor improvements go on slowly, both on account of the vast amount of work to be done, and the inevitable delays in obtaining appropriations. The present intention is to provide for Chicago a harbor which will be a safe home for her shipping. The sheltered area is sixteen, feet in depth, and the surface is about 270 acres. Communicating slips along the lake front, with an area of 185 acres, make the grand total about 455 acres. This, it will be understood, is in addition to the river with which the harbor communicates. There is also an exterior breakwater, one-third of a mile north of the end of the North Pier, so situated as to protect vessels entering the mouth of the river. The length of this outer breakwater is 5,500 feet. Other breakwaters have been constructed so as to afford as much pro- tection as possible to the vessels required for the commercial trans- actions of the great city. Nearly every vessel that enters this port seeks the piers along the various branches of the river. The river branches have their ramifica- tion through the city, and in consequence the shipping is strung out for many miles, presenting an insignificant appearance, but in the aggregate it is said to be greater than that of any other port in America. The river is cramped and totally inadequate for the vast commerce that threads its way through the murky, filthy channel. The proper place for the shipping interests is within the harbor, and sooner or later it must 144 PARKS, BOULEVARDS AND OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST. come to this. When this revolution is effected, Chicago will present a harbor scene that can scarcely be rivaled in any part of the world. The irritating nuisance of swinging bridges would be abated and, while it would make the lake front portion of the city undesirable for elegant hotels and aristocratic residences, the property would be enhanced in value for purposes of shipping and commerce. The foregoing description of Chicago, comprising the history of the city and the chief points of interest, will serve as a guide to the visitor who will be struck with the exceedingly rapid growth of the town, its extraordinary enterprise, and the brilliant future before it, of which there are many indications. Undoubtedly Chicago is in its infancy. An immense and fruitful territory feeds its markets, and the great chain of lakes is the highway of its commerce. The city has felt great pride in the World's Columbian Exposition. The outlay of time, money and brain work and energy required in this vast undertaking is beyond all conception. The Great Fair found a suitable home, and its magnificent success is only what might have been expected from the interest taken in it by the leading citizens of the Western Metropolis. The World's Columbian Exposition. CHAPTER VI. Celebration of the Discovery of America by Columbus. NO Exposition so imposing and magnificent as that at Chicago has ever before been held. The foremost nations of the world were interested in it, and by large appropriations and splendid exhibits contributed to the success of the vast undertaking. The discovery of America by Columbus is the most important event of modern times. After four hundred years the new world is the rival of the old. Greece and Rome had their glory which is now buried in the fragments of their ruins and lives only in history. Here in the new world was to spring up a brilliant civilization destined to eclipse that of ancient nations. The progress of America in science, art, agriculture, material and moral achievements, is the miracle of history. By common consent the 4