VI B RAR.Y OF THE UN I VE.RSITY OF ILLINOIS 317.7 HUMS mma SURVEY irn this book on or bef ~t Date stamped be * is made on all NEW GUIDE FOR EMIGRANTS TO THE WEST, CONTAINING SKETCHES OF MICHIGANj OHIO, INDIANA, ILLINOIS, MISSOURI, ARKANSAS, WITH THE TERRITORY OF WIS- CONSIN AND THE ADJACENT FARTS. BY J. M. PECK, A. M OF ROCK SPRING, ILL. Second Edition. BOSTON: GOULD, KENDALL & LINCOLN FOR SALE BY THE BOOKSELLERS IN THE UNITED STATES. 1 837. f / 7 7 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1836, by GOULD, KENDALL & LINCOLN, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massachusetts. FOWER PRESS OK WM. S. DAMRELL, 39 Washington Street, Boston. \i.n CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. GENERAL VIEW OF THE VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. Page. Extent Subdivisions Population Physical Features Rivers, 15 CHAPTER II. GENERAL VIEW, &c., CONTINUED. Animal, Vegetable and Mineral Productions History Prospective Increase of Population, 36 CHAPTER III. CLIMATE. Comparative View of the Climate with the Atlantic States Diseases Means of preserving Health, ... 62 CHAPTER IV. CHARACTER, MANNERS AND PURSUITS OK THE PEOPLE. Cotton and Sugar Planters Farmers Population of the Cities and large Towns Frontier Class Hunt- ers and Trappers Boatmen, 107 94605 IV CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. PUBLIC LANDS. Pago. System of Surveys Meridian and Base Lines Town- ships Diagram of a Township, surveyed into Sections Land Districts and Offices Preemption Rights Military Bounty Lands Taxes Valuable Tracts of Country unsettled, 135 CHAPTER VI. ABORIGINES. Conjecture respecting their former Numbers and Con- dition Present Number and State Indian Terri- tory appropriated as their permanent Residence Plan and Operations of the United States Govern- ment Missionary Efforts and Stations Monuments and Antiquities, 148 CHAPTER VII. WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA. Face of the Country Soil, Agriculture and internal Improvements Chief Towns Pittsburgh Coal, . 167 CHAPTER VIII. WESTERN VIRGINIA. Sulphur, Hot and Sweet Springs Chief Towns, .... 180 CHAPTER IX. MICHIGAN. Extent Situation Boundaries Face of the Country Rivers, Lakes, &c. Soil and Productions Sub- divisions Counties Chief Towns Education CONTENTS. V Pago. Projected Improvements Boundary Dispute Out- line of the Constitution, 184 CHAPTER X. OHIO. Boundaries Divisions Face of the Country Soil and Prod uctions Animals Minerals Financial Statistics Canal Fund Expenditures Land Tax- es School Fund Statistics Canal Revenues Population at different Periods Rivers Internal Improvements Manufactures Cities and Towns, Cincinnati, Columbus Education Form of Gov- ernment Antiquities History, 198 CHAPTER XL INDIANA. Boundaries and Extent Counties Population at dif- ferent Periods Face of the Country Sketch of each County Form of Government Finances Internal Improvements Manufactures Education History General Remarks, ! . . 228- CHAPTER XII. ILLINOIS. Boundaries and Extent Face of the Country and Qualities of Soil Inundated Land River Bottoms, or Alluvion Prairies Barrens Forest, or timber- ed Land Knobs, Bluffs, Ravines and Sink-holes Rivers, &c. Animal, Mineral and Vegetable Pro- ductions Manufactures Civil Divisions Tabular View of the Counties Sketch of each County VI CONTENTS. Page. Towns Projected Improvements Education Government General Remarks, 256 CHAPTER XIII. MISSOURI. Extent and Boundaries Civil Divisions Population at different Periods Surface, Soil and Produc- tionsTowns, 320 CHAPTER XIV. ARKANSAS. Situation and Extent Civil Divisions Rivers Face of the Country Soil Water Productions Cli- mate Minerals State of Society, 328 CHAPTER XV. WISCONSIN. Boundaries and Extent Rivers Soil Productions Towns, &c., 334 CHAPTER XVI. LITERARY AND RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS. Colleges Statistical Sketch of each Denomination Field for Effort, and Progress made, 340 CHAPTER XVII. SUGGESTIONS TO EMIGRANTS. Canal, Steam-boat and Stage Routes Other Modes of Travel Expenses Roads Distances, &c., . . , 371 INTRODUCTION. MUCH has been published already about the WEST, the GREAT WEST, the VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI ; but no portion of this immense and interesting region is so much the subject of inquiry, and so particularly excites the attention of the emigrant, as the States of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri and Michigan, with the adjacent territorial regions. All these States have come into existence, as such, with the exception of Ohio, within the last twenty years; and much of the territory, now adorned by the hand of civiliza- tion, and spread over with an enterprising, industrious and intelligent people, the field of public improvements in ca- nals arid railways, of colleges, churches, and other institu- tions, was the hunting ground of the aborigines, and the scene of border warfare. These States have been unparal- leled in their growth, both in the increase of population and property, and in the advance of intellectual and moral improvement. Such an extent of forest was never before cleared, such a vast field of prairie was never before sub- dued and cultivated by the hand of man, in the same short period of time. Cities, and towns, and villages, and coun- ties, and States, never before rushed into existence and made such giant strides, as upon this field. " Who hath heard such a thing? Who hath seen such things? Shall the earth be made to bring forth in one day? or shall a nation be born at once 1 ?""* * Isaiah 6C: 3 Vlll INTRODUCTION. The rapid increase of population will be exhibited in a tabular form, in the following pages, and other parts, show- ing that the general improvement of the country, and the development of its physical, intellectual and moral resources have kept pace with the extension of settlements. And such are its admirable facilities for commerce, by its nu- merous navigable rivers, and its lines of canals, some of which are finished, and many others commenced or pro- jected, such the richness of its soil and the variety of its productions, such the genial nature of its climate, the enterprise of its population, and the influence it must soon wield in directing the destinies of the whole United States, as to render the GREAT WEST an object of the deepest interest to the American patriot. To the philanthropist and Christian, the character and manners, the institutions, lit- erature and religion of so wide a portion of our country, whose mighty energies are soon to exert a controlling in- * fluence over the character of the whole nation, and in some measure of the world, are not less matters of mo- mentous concern. " The West is a young empire of mind, and power, and wealth, and free institutions, rushing up to a giant manhood with a rapidity and power never before witnessed below the sun. And if she carries with her the elements of her preservation, the experiment will be glorious, the joy of the nation, the joy of the whole earth, as she rises in the majesty of her intelligence, and benevolence, and enterprise, for the emancipation of the world."* Amongst the causes that have awakened the attention of the community in the Atlantic States to this great Valley, and excited the desires of multitudes to remove hither, may be reckoned the efforts of the liberal and benevolent to aid the West in the immediate supply of her population with the Bible, with Sunday schools, with religious tracts, with the gospel ministry, and to lay the foundation for colleges and other literary institutions. Hundreds of families, who might otherwise have remained in the crowded cities and densely populated neighborhoods of their ancestors, have * Bocchcr. INTRODUCTION. IX had their attention directed to these States as a permanent home. And thousands more, of virtuous and industrious families, would follow, and fix their future residence on our prairies, and in our western forests, cultivate our wild lands, aid in building up our towns and cities, anfl diffuse a healthful, moral and intellectual influence through the mass of our present population, could they feel assured that they can reach some portion of the Western Valley without great risk and expense, provide for their families comfortably, and not be swept off by sickness, or over- whelmed by suffering beyond what is incident to any new country. The author's first book, c A GUIDE FOR EMIGRANTS,' &c., was written in the winter and spring of 1831, to an- swer the pressing call then made for information of these Western States, but more especially that of Illinois; but many of its particulars, as to the character and usages of the people, manners and customs, modes of erecting build- ings, general characteristics and qualities of soil, produc- tions, &c., were applicable to the West generally. Since that period, brief as it has been, wide and rapid changes have been made, population has rapidly augment- ed, beyond that of any former period of the same extent; millions of acres of the public domain, then wild and hardly explored, have been brought into market; settlements and counties have been formed, and populous towns have sprung up, where, at that time, the Indian and wild beast had possession; facilities for intercommunication have been greatly extended, and distant places have been brought comparatively near; the desire to emigrate to the West has increased, and every body in the Atlantic States has bocqrne interested, and inquires about the great Valley. That re- spectable place, so much the theme of declamation and in- quiry abroad, " the Far West," has gone from this region towards the setting sun. Its exact locality has not yet been settled, but probably it may soon be found along the Gulf of California, or near Nootka Sound. And, if distance is to be measured by time and the facility of intercourse, we are now several hundred miles nearer the Atlantic coast than twenty years since. Ten years more, and the facilities Xll INTRODUCTION. surprisingly ignorant of the actual condition, resources, so- ciety, manners of the people, and even the geography of these States and Territories. The author is aware of the difficulty of conveying entirely correct ideas of this region, to a person who has never traveled beyond the borders of his native State. The laws and habits of associating ideas in the human mind forbid it. The chief source of information for those States that lie on the Mississippi, has been the personal observation of the author, having explored most of the settlements in Mis- souri and Illinois, and a portion of Indiana and Ohio, having spent more than eighteen years here, and seen the two former States, from an incipient Territorial form of government, and a few scattered and detached settlements, arise to their present state of improvement, population, wealth and national importance. His next source of in- formation has been from personal acquaintance and corres- pondence with many intelligent citizens of the States and Territories he describes. Reference has also been had to the works of Hall, Flint, Darby, Breckenridge, Beck, Long, Schoolcraft, Lewis and Clarke, Mitchell's and Tanner's Maps, Farmer's Map of Michigan, Turnbull's Map of Ohio, Ohio Gazetteer, Indiana Gazetteer, Dr. Drake's writings, M'Coy's Annual Register of Indian Affairs, Ellicott's Sur- veys, and several periodicals. J. M. P. Hock Spring, Illinois, January, 1836. ADVERTISEMENT FOR THE SECOND EDITION. The Author has reviewed this work, corrected typo- graphical and verbal errors, that unavoidably crept into the first edition, without opportunity to examine and correct the proof sheets; but has not found occasion to make any essential alterations. J. M. P. Rock Spring, Illinois, January 1, 1837. GUIDE TO EMIGRANTS. CHAPTER I. GENERAL VIEW OF THE VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI Its Extent Subdivisions Population Physical Features Rivers. THE Valley of the Mississippi, in its proper geographical extent, embraces all that portion of the United States, lying between the Alleg- hany and Rocky Mountains, the waters of which are discharged into the gulf of Mexico, through the mouths of the Mississippi. I have embraced, however, under that general term, a portion of the country bordering on the northern lakes, including the north part of Ohio, the north-eastern portions of Indiana and Illinois, the whole of Michigan, with a considerable territorial district on the west side of lake Michigan, and around lake Su- perior. Extent. This great Valley is one of the 16 PECK'S GUIDE. largest divisions of the globe, the waters of which pass one estuary. To suppose the United States and its terri- tory to be divided into three portions, the ar- rangement would be, the Atlantic slope, the Mississippi basin, or valley, and the Pacific slope. A glance on any map of North America, will show that this Valley includes about two- thirds of the territory of the United States. The Atlantic slope contains about 390,000; the Pacific slope, about 300,000; which, com- bined, are 690,000 square miles; while the Valley of the Mississippi contains, at least, 1,300,000 square miles, or 833,000,000 acres. This Valley extends from the 29 to the 49 of north latitude, or about 1400 miles from south to north; and from the 3 to the 35 of longi- tude west from Washington, or about 1470 miles from east to west. From the source of the Alleghany river to the sources of the Missouri, following the meanderings of the streams, is not less than 5000 miles. Subdivisions. The States and Territories included, are a small section of New York, watered by the heads of the Alleghany river, Western Pennsylvania, Western Virginia, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Michigan, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Louisiana, Arkansas, Indian Territory, the vast unsettled regions lying to the west and north of this Territory, the Wisconsin Territory, including an extensive country west of the Mississip- pi, and north of the State of Missouri, with GENERAL VIEW. 17 the vast regions that lie towards the heads of the Mississippi, and around lake Superior.* Population. Probably, there is no portion of the globe, of equal extent, that contains as much of soil fit for cultivation, and which is capable of sustaining and supplying with all the necessaries and conveniences, and most of the luxuries of life, so dense a population as this great Valley. Deducting one third of its surface, for water and desert, which is a very liberal allowance, and there remains 866,667 square miles, or 554,666,880 acres of arable land. The following table, gives a comparative view of the population of the Valley of the Mississippi, and shows the proportional in- crease of the several States, parts of States, and Territories, from 1790 to the close of 1835, a period of forty-five years. The col- umn for 1835, is made up, partly, from the census, taken in several States and Territo- ries, and partly by estimation. It is sufficient- ly accurate, for general purposes: * Why the names, Huron, Mandan, Sioux, Osage, and Ozark have been applied by Darby, and other authors, to the extensive regions on the Upper Mississippi, the Upper Missouri, and the Arkansas rivers, I am not able to solve. Os'tge is a French corruption of Wos-sosh-e, and Ozark is an awkward, illiterate corruption of Au Kauzau. Sioux is another French corruption, the origin of which is not now easily ascertained. Carver, and other travellers, call this nation of Indians, Nau-do-wes-sees. Chiefs of this nation have repeatedly disclaimed the name of Sioux (pro- nounced Soos). They sometimes call themselves Da-co-tah. 2 18 PECK'S GUIDE. O OOOt^OO-rt O5 COt-Ol>rHQOTtl>CO(N r-^o^in^kn^c^c^aq^cc^ao^ 1 ^ co O QO O J> O i-i CO(MJ>if5i-l cT cTcT (N i-H (N ce>i oo OCOTft> "* (N . 66 c-= 111 Ifi III l;f *v ' ' m _M K P> 3 eiills 5 5 3 - GENERAL VIEW. 19 Let this Valley become as populous as Mas- sachusetts, which contains610,014inhabitants, on an area of 7800 square miles, or seventy- eight to every 640 acres, and the population of this immense region will amount to 67,600,000. The child is now born which will live to see this result. Suppose its population to become equally dense with England, including Wales, which contains 207 to the square mile, and its numbers will amount to 179,400,000. But let it become equal to the Netherlands, the most populous country on the globe, containing 230 to the square mile, and the Valley of the Mis- sissippi teems with a population of two hun- dred millions, a result which may be had in the same time that New England has been gathering its two millions. What reflections ought this view to present to the patriot, the philanthropist, and the Christian! Physical Features. The physical features of this Valley are peculiar. 1. It includes two great inclined planes, one on its eastern, and the other on its west- ern border, terminating with the Mississippi. 2. This river receives all the waters pro- duced on these slopes, which are discharged by its mouths into the gulf of Mexico. 3. Every part of this vast region can be penetrated by steam-boats, or other water craft ; nor is there a spot in all this wide re- gion, excepting a small district in the vast plains of Upper Missouri, that is more than one hundred miles from some navigable water. 20 PECK'S GUIDE. A boat may take in its lading on the banks of the Chatauque lake, in the State of New York; another may receive its cargo in the interior of Virginia; a third may start from the rice lakes, at the head of the Mississippi; and a fourth may come, laden with furs, from the Chippewan mountains, 2800 miles up the Missouri, and all meet at the mouth of the Ohio, and proceed in company to the ocean. 4. With the exception of its eastern and western borders, there are no mountains. Some portions are level; a large part is gently undulating, or what in the West is called "rolling;" and the remainder is made up of abrupt hills, flint and limestone ridges, bluffs and ravines. 5. It is divided into two great portions, the UPPER and LOWER VALLEY, according to its general features, climate, staple productions, and habits of its population. The parallel of latitude that cuts the mouth of the Ohio river, will designate these portions with sufficient accuracy. North of this line, the seasons are regularly divided into spring, summer, autumn, and winter. In the winter there is usually more or less snow: ice forms, and frequently blocks up the rivers, and navigation is obstructed. Cotton is not produced in sufficient quantity or quality to make it a staple for exportation. It is the region of furs, minerals, tobacco, hemp, live stock, and every description of grain and fruit that grows in New England. GENERAL VIEW. 21 Its white population are mostly accustomed to labor. South of this line, cotton, tobacco, indigo, and sugar, are staples. It has little winter; snow seldom covers the earth; ice never ob- structs the rivers; and most of the labor is done by slaves. Rivers. The rivers are the Mississippi and its tributaries; or, more correctly, the Mis- souri, and its tributaries. If we except the Amazon, no river can compare with this, for length of its course, the number and ex- tent of its tributaries, the vast country they drain, and their capabilities for navigation. Its tributaries generally issue either from the eastern or western mountains, and flow over this immense region, diffusing not only fertili- ty to the soil, but affording facilities for com- merce a great part of the year. The Missouri is unquestionably the main stream, for it is not only longer, and dis- charges a larger volume of water, than the Mississippi, above its mouth, but it has branches, which, for the extent of country they drain, their length, and the volume of water they discharge, far exceed the Upper Mississippi. The characteristics of these two rivers are each distinctly marked. The Missouri is tur- bid, violent in its motions, changing its cur- rents; its navigation is interrupted, or made difficult, by snags, sawyers, and planters; and it has many islands and sand-bars. Such is 22 PECK'S GUIDE. the character of the Mississippi, below the mouth of the Missouri. But above its mouth, its waters are clear, its current gentle, while it is comparatively free from snags and sand- bars. The Missouri, which we have shown to be the principal stream, rises in the Chippewan, or Rocky mountains, in latitude 44 north, and longitude about 35 west from Washing- ton city. It runs a north-east course, till after it receives the Yellow Stone, when it reaches past the 48th degree of latitude ; thence an east, then a south, and, finally, a south- eastern course, until it meets the current of the Mississippi, twenty miles above St. Louis, and in latitude 38 45' north. Besides nu- merous smaller streams, the Missouri receives the Yellow Stone and Platte, which of them- selves, in any other part of the world, would be called large rivers, together with the Sioux, Kausau, Grand, Chariton, Osage, and Gasconade, all large and navigable rivers. Its length, upon an entire comparative course, is 1870 miles, and, upon a particular course, about 3000 miles. Lewis and Clark make the distance from the Mississippi to the great falls, 2580 miles. There are several things in some respects peculiar to this river, which deserve notice: 1. Its current is very rapid, usually at the rate of four or five miles an hour, when at its height ; and it requires a strong wind to pro- pel a boat, with a sail, against it. Steam over- GENERAL VIEW. 23 comes its force, for boats ply regularly from St. Louis to the towns and landings on its banks, within the borders of the State, and return with the produce of the country. Small steam-boats have gone to the Yellow Stone for furs. Owing to the shifting of its current, and its snags and sand-bars, its navigation is less safe and pleasant than any other western river, but these difficulties are every year lessened by genius and enterprise. 2. Its water is always turbid, being of a muddy ash color, though more so at its peri- odical rise than at other times. This is caused by extremely fine sand, received from the neighborhood of the Yellow Stone. During the summer flood, a tumbler of water taken from the Missouri, and precipitated, will pro- duce about one fourth of its bulk in sediment. This sediment does not prevent its habitual use by hundreds who live on its banks, or move in boats over its surface. Some filtrate it, but many more drink it, and use it for culinary purposes, in its natural state. When entirely filtrated, it is the most lim- pid and agreeable river water I ever saw. Its specific gravity is then about equal to rain water; but, in its turbid state, it is much heavier than ordinary river water; for a boat will draw three or four inches less in it than in other rivers, with the same lading; and the human body will swim in it with but very little effort. 24 PECK'S GUIDE. It possesses some medicinal properties. Placed in an open vessel, and exposed to the summer's sun, it remains pure for weeks. Eruptions on the skin and' ulcerous sores are cured by wading or frequent bathings; and it commonly produces slight cathartic effects upon strangers, upon its first use. The width of the Missouri river, at St. Charles, is 550 yards. Its alluvial banks, however, are insecure, and are not unfre- quently washed away, for many yards, at its annual floods. The bed of its channel is also precarious, and is elevated, or depressed, by the deposition or removal of its sandy founda- tion. Hence, the elevation or depression of the surface of this river affords no criterion of its depth, or of the volume of water it dis- charges at any one period. Undulatory motions, like the boiling of a pot, are frequently seen on its surface, caused by the shifting of the sand that forms its bed. The volume of water it ordinarily discharges into the Mississippi, is vastly disproportionate to its length, or the number and size of its tributaries. I have seen less than six feet depth of water at St. Charles, at a low stage, and it was once forded by a soldier, at Belle- Fontaine, four miles above its junction with the Mississippi. Evaporation takes up large quantities, but absorption, throughout the porous soil of its wide bottoms, consumes much more. In all the wells dug in the bottom lands of the Mis- GENERAL VIEW. 25 souri, water is always found at the depth of the surface of the river, and invariably rises or sinks with the floods and ebbings of the stream. Sand frequently enters these wells as the river rises. Its periodical floods deserve notice. Ordi- narily, this river has three periods of rising and falling, each year. The first rise is caused by the breaking up of winter on the Gasconade, Osage, Kausau, Chariton, Grand, and other branches of the Lower Missouri, and occurs the latter part of February, or early in March. Its second rise is usually in April, when the Platte, Yellow Stone, and other streams pour into it their spring floods. But the flood, that more usually attracts attention, takes place from the 10th to the 25th of June, when the melting snows on the Chippewan mountains pour their contents into the Mis- souri. This flood is scarcely ever less than five, nor more than twenty feet, at St. Louis, above the ordinary height of the river. On two occasions, however, since the country was known to the French, it has risen to that height in the Mississippi, as to flow over the American bottom, in Illinois, and drive the inhabitants of Cahokia and Kaskaskia from their villages to the bluffs. Rain, in greater or less quantities, usually falls during the rise of the river, and ceases when the waters subside. So uniform is this the case in Upper Missouri, the region beyond the boundary of the State, that the seasons are divided into wet and dry. 26 PECK'S GUIDE. Pumice stone, and other volcanic produc- tions, occasionally float down its waters. Mississippi River. The extreme head of the longest branch of the Mississippi river has been found in lake Itaska, or Lac la Biche, by Mr. Schoolcraft, who states it to be elevated 1500 feet above the Atlantic ocean, and distant 3160 miles from the ex- treme outlet of the river, at the gulf of Mexico. The outlet of Itaska lake, which is connected with a string of small lakes, is ten or twelve feet broad, and twelve or fifteen inches deep. This is in latitude about 48 north. From this, it passes Cedar, and several smaller lakes, and runs a winding course, 700 miles, to the falls of St. Anthony, where its waters are precipitated over a cataract of sixteen or seventeen feet, perpendicular. It then con- tinues a south-eastern course, to the Missouri, in latitude 38 38' north, receiving the St. Croix, Chippewa, Wisconsin, Rock, and Il- linois rivers, with many smaller streams from the east, and the St. Peter's Iowa, Des Moines and Salt rivers, besides a number of smaller ones from the west. The current of the Mis- souri strikes that of the Mississippi, at right angles, and throws it upon the eastern shore. When at a low stage, the waters of the tv/o rivers are distinct till they pass St. Louis. The principal branch of the Upper Missis- sippi is the St. Peter's, which rises in the great prairies in the north-west, and enters the parent stream ten miles below the falls of GENERAL VIEW. 27 St. Anthony. Towards the sources of this river the quarries exist from which are made the red stone pipes of the Indians. This is sacred ground: hostile tribes meet here, and part unmolested. Rock river drains the waters from the north- ern part of Illinois and Wisconsin, and enters the parent stream, at latitude 41 30' north. In latitude 39 comes in the Illinois (signify- ing the "River of Men"); and, eighteen miles below this, it unites with, and is lost in the Missouri. Custom has fixed, unalterably, the name Mississippi to this united body of waters, that rolls its turbid waves towards the Mexican gulf; though, as has been intimated, it is but a continuation of the Missouri. Sixty miles below St. Louis, the Kaskaskia joins it, after a devious course of 400 miles. In latitude 37 north, the Ohio pours in its tribute (called by the early French explorers, " La Belle Riviere , ' ' the beautiful river) . A little below 34 the White river enters, after a course of more than 1000 miles. Thirty miles below that, the Arkansas, bringing its tribute from the confines of Mexico, pours in its waters. Above Natchez, the Yazoo, from the east, and, eighty miles below, the Red river, from the west, unite their waters with the Mississippi. Red river takes its rise in the Mexican dominions, and runs a course of more than 2000 miles. Hitherto, the waters in the wide regions 28 PECK'S GUIDE. of the West have been congregating to one point. The " Father of Waters " is now up- wards of a mile in width, and several fathoms deep. During its annual floods, it overflows its banks, below the mouth of the Ohio, and penetrates the numerous bayous, lakes and swamps, and especially on its western side. In many places, these floods extend thirty or forty miles into the interior. But after it re- ceives the Red river, it begins to throw off its surplus waters, which flow in separate chan- nels to the gulf, and never again unite with the parent stream. Several of these commu- nications are held with the ocean, at different and distant points. Ohio River. The Ohio river is formed by the junction of the Alleghany and Mononga- hela, at Pittsburgh. The Alleghany river rises not far from the head of the western branch of the Susquehannah, in the highlands of McKean county, Pennsylvania. It runs north, till it penetrates Cataraugus county, New York; then turns west, then south-west, and finally takes a southern course, to Pitts- burgh. It receives a branch from the Cha- tauque lake, Chatauque county, New York. The Monongahela rises near the sources of the Kenawha, in Western Virginia, and runs north till it meets the Alleghany. The general course of the Ohio is south- west. Its current is gentle, and it receives a number of tributaries, which are noticed in the States where they run. GENERAL VIEW. 29 The Valley of the Mississippi has been ar- ranged, by Mr. Darby, into four great subdi- visions: 1. The Ohio Valley, length, 750 miles, and mean width, 261; containing 196,000 square miles. 2. Mississippi Valley, above Ohio, includ- ing the minor valley of Illinois, but exclusive of Missouri, 650 miles long, and 277 mean width, and containing 180,000 square miles. 3. Lower Valley of the Mississippi, includ- ing White, Arkansas, and Red river valleys, 1000 miles long, and 200 wide, containing 200,000 square miles. 4. Missouri Proper, including Osage, Kau- sau, Platte rivers, &c., 1200 miles long, and 437 wide, containing 523,000 square miles. "The Valley of the Ohio is better known than any of the others; has much fertile land, and much that is sterile, or unfit for cultiva- tion, on account of its unevenness. It is di- vided into two unequal portions, by the Ohio river; leaving on the right, or north-west side, 80,000, and on the left, or south-east side, 116,000 square miles. The eastern part of this valley is hilly, and rapidly acclivous to- wards the Appalachian mountains. Indeed, its high hills, as you approach these mountains, are of a strongly marked mountainous char- acter. Of course, the rivers which flow into the Ohio, the Monongahela, Kenawha, Lick- ing, Sandy, Kentucky, Green, Cumberland and Tennessee, are rapid, and abounding 30 PECK'S GUIDE. in cataracts and falls, which, towards their sources, greatly impede navigation. The western side of this Valley is also hilly, for a considerable distance from the Ohio, but, towards its western limit, it subsides to a remarkably level region; so that, whilst the eastern line of this Valley lies along the high table land, on which the Appalachian moun- tains rest, and where the rivers of the eastern section of this Valley rise (which is at least 2000 miles, generally, above the ocean level), the western line has not an elevation of much more than half of that amount on the north, and which greatly subsides towards the Kaskaskia. The rivers of the western section are Beaver, Muskingum, Hockhocking, Scioto, Miama, and Wabash. Along the Ohio, on each side, are high hills, often intersected with deep ra- vines, and sometimes openings of considerable extent, and well known by the appellation of 'Ohio Hills.' Towards the mouth of the Ohio, these hills almost wholly disappear, and extensive level bottoms, covered with heavy forests of oak, sycamore, elm, poplar and cotton-wood, stretch along each side of the river. On the lower section of the river, the water, at the time of the spring floods, often overflows these bottoms to a great ex- tent. This fine Valley embraces considerably more than one half of the whole population of the entire Valley of the West. The western parts of Pennsylvania and Virginia, the entire States of Ohio, Indiana and Kentucky, the GENERAL VIEW. 31 larger part of Tennessee, and a smaller part of Illinois, are in the Valley of the Ohio." The Upper Valley of the Mississippi pos- sesses a surface far less diversified than the Valley of the Ohio. The country, where its most northern branches take their rise, is elevated table land, abounding with marshes and lakes, that are filled with a graniferous vegetable, called wild rice. It is a slim, shriveled grain, of a brownish hue, and gathered by the Indians, in large quantities, for food. There are tracts of arable land, covered with elm, linden, pine, hemlock, cherry, maple, birch, and other timber com- mon to a northern climate. From the same plateau flow the numerous branches of Red river, and other streams that flow into lake Winnipec, and thence into Hudson's bay. Here, too, are found some of the head branches of the waters of St. Lawrence, that enter the Lake of the Woods and Superior. In the whole country of which we are speak- ing, there is nothing that deserves the name of mountain. Below the falls of St. Anthony the river bluffs are often abrupt, wild and romantic; and at their base and along the streams are thousands of quartz crystals, cor- nelians, and other precious stones. But a short distance in the rear, you en- ter upon table land of extensive prairies, with clumps of trees, and groves, along the streams. Further down, abrupt cliffs, and overhanging precipices, are frequently seen at the termination of the river alluvion. 32 PECK'S GUIDE. The whole country north-west of the Ohio, and east of the Mississippi, as far north as the falls of St. Anthony, exhibit striking marks of a diluvial formation, by a gradual retiring of the waters. From the summit level that di- vides the waters of the lakes from those of the Mississippi, through Ohio, Indiana, Illi- nois, and Wisconsin, which is scarcely a per- ceptible ridge, to the south point of Illinois, at the junction of the Ohio and Mississippi, appears to have once been a plane, with an inclination equal to twelve or fifteen inches per mile. The ravines and valleys appear to have been gradually sc.ooped out by the abra- sion of the waters. "The Lower Mississippi Valley has a length of 1200 miles, from north-west to south-east, considering the source of the Ar- kansas and the mouth of the Mississippi river as extreme points; reaching from latitude 29 to 42 north, and, without estimating moun- tains, ridges or peaks, differs in relative ele- vation at least 500 feet. " The Arkansas river rises near latitude 42 north, and longitude 32 west from Washing- ton, and falls into the Mississippi at 33 56', passing over eight degrees of latitude. " Red river rises in the mountainous coun- try of Mexico, north of Texas, in latiude 34 north, and longitude 29 west from Washing- ton, and falls into the Mississippi in latitude 31. They are both remarkable rivers, for their extent, the number of their branches, GENERAL VIEW. 33 the volume of their waters, the quantity of al- luvion they carry down to the parent stream, and the color of their waters. Impregnated by saline particles, and colored with ocherous earth, the waters of these two rivers are at once brackish and nauseous to the taste, par- ticularly near their mouths: that of Red river is so much so at Natchitoches, at low water, that it cannot be used for culinary purposes. "At a short distance below the mouth of the Red river, a large bayou (as it is called), or outlet, breaks from the Mississippi, on the west; by which, it is believed, as large a volume of water as the Red river brings to the parent river, is drained off, and runs to the gulf of Mexico, fifty miles from the mouth of the Mississippi. The name of this bayou is Atchafalaya, or, as it is commonly called, Chaffalio. Below this bayou, another of large dimensions breaks forth on the same side, and finally falls into the Atchafalaya. This is the Placquemine. Still lower, at Donaldsonville, ninety miles above New Orleans, on the same side, the Lafourche bayou breaks out, and pursues a course parallel to the Mississippi, fifty miles west of the mouth of that river. On the east side, the Ibberville bayou drains off a portion of the waters of the Mississippi, into lakes Maurepas, Ponchartrain, Borgnes, and the gulf of Mexico, and thus forms the long and narrow island of Orleans. "In the Lower Valley of the Mississippi there is a great extent of land of the very 2* 34 PECK'S GUIDE. richest kind. There is also much that is al- most always overflown with waters, and is a perpetual swamp. There are extensive prairies in this Valley; and towards the Rocky mountains, on the upper waters of the Arkan- sas and Red rivers, there are vast barren steppes, or plains of sand, dreary and barren, like the central steppes of Asia. On the east of the Mississippi are extensive regions of the densest forests, which form a striking contrast with the prairies which stretch on the west of that great river. "The Valley of the Missouri extends 1200 miles in length, and 700 in width, and em- braces 253,000 square miles. The Missouri river rises in the Chippewan mountains, through eight degrees, or nearly 600 miles. The Yellow Stone is its longest branch. The course of the Missouri, after leaving the Rocky mountains, is generally south-east, un- til it unites with the Mississippi. The princi- pal branches flow from the south-west. They are the Osage, Kausau, Platte, &c. The three most striking features of this Valley are, 1st. The turbid character of its waters. 2d. The very unequal volumes of the right and left confluences. 3d. The immense pre- dominance of the open prairies, over the forests which line the rivers. The western part of this Valley rises to an elevation to- wards the Chippewan mountains, equal to ten degrees of temperature. Ascending from the lower verge of this widely extended plain, GENERAL VIEW. 35 wood becomes more and more scarce, until one naked surface spreads on all sides. Even the ridges and chains of the Chippewan par- take of these traits of desolation. The trav- eler, who has read the descriptions of Central Asia, by Tooke or Pallas, will feel on the higher branches of the Missouri, a resem- blance, at once striking and appalling; and he will acknowledge, if near to the Chippe- wan mountains, in winter, that the utmost in- tensity of frost over Siberia and Mongolia has its full counterpart in North America, on similar, if not on lower latitudes. There is much fertile land in the Valley of the Mis- souri, though much of it must be for ever the abode of the buffalo and the elk, the wolf and the deer "* * Darby. CHAPTER II. GENERAL VIEW OF THE VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. (CONTINUED.) Productions. Minerals. But few mines exist in the Low- er Valley of the Mississippi. Louisiana being chiefly alluvion, furnishes only two specimens, sulphuret of antimony, and meteoric iron ore. It is supposed that the pine barrens towards Texas, if explored, would add to the number. The only minerals in Mississippi are, ame- thyst, of which one crystal has been found; potter's clay, at the Chickasaw bluffs, and near Natchez; sulphuret of lead, in small quantities, about Port Gibson; and sulphate of iron. Petrified trunks of trees are found in the bed of the Mississippi, opposite Natchez. In Arkansas, are various species. Here may be found the native magnet, or magnetic oxide of iron, possessing strong magnetic power. Iron ores are very abundant. Sul- phate of copper, sulphuret of zinc, alum, and GENERAL VIEW. 37 aluminous slate are found about the cove of Washitau and the hot springs. Buhr stone, of a superior quality, exists in the surrounding hills. The hot springs are interesting, on ac- count of the minerals around them, the heat of their waters, and as furnishing a retreat to valetudinarians from the sickly regions ot the South. They are situated on the Washi- tau, a large stream that empties into Red river. The lead mines of Missouri have been worked for more than a century. They are distributed through the country, from thirty to one hundred miles south-west from St. Louis, and probably extend through the Gas- conade country. Immense quantities of iron ore exist in this region. Lead is found in vast quantities, in the northern part of Illinois, the south part of Wisconsin Territory, and the country on the west side of the Mississip- pi. These mines are worked extensively. Native copper, in large quantities, is found in the same region. Large quantities of iron ore is found in the mountainous parts of Ten- nessee and Kentucky, where furnaces and forges have been erected; also, in the hilly parts of Ohio, particularly at the falls of Lick- ing, four miles west of Zanesville; and in Adams and Lawrence counties, near the Ohio river. With iron ore the West is profusely supplied. Bituminous coal exists, in great profusion, in various parts of the Western Valley. The 38 PECK'S GUIDE. hills, around Pittsburgh, are inexhaustible. It extends through many portions of Ohio and Indiana. Nearly every county in Illinois is supplied with this valuable article. Missouri, Kentucky, and Tennessee have their share. Immense quantities are found in the moun- tains along the Kenawha, in Western Vir- ginia, and it is now employed in the manufac- ture of salt. The Cumberland mountains, in Tennessee, contain immense deposits. Muriate of soda, or common salt, exists in most of the States and Territories of this Valley. Near the sources of the Arkansas, incrustations are formed by evaporation, dur- ing the dry season, in the depressed portions of the immense prairies of that region. The celebrated salt rock is on the red fork of the Canadian, a branch of the Arkansas river. Jefferson lake has its water strongly impreg- nated with salt, and is of a bright red color. Beds of rock salt are in the mountains of this region. Several counties of Missouri have abundant salt springs. Considerable quan- tities of salt are manufactured in Jackson, Gallatin, and Vermilion counties, Illinois. Saline springs, and "licks," as they are called, abound through Kentucky, Tennes- see, Indiana, Ohio, Western Pennsylvania, and Western Virginia. Salt is manufactured, in great abundance, at the Kenawha salines, sixteen miles above Oharlestown, Va., and brought down the Kenawha river, and carried to all the Western States. Much salt is made GENERAL VIEW, 39 also on the Kiskiminitas, a branch of the Alleghany river, at the Yellow creek, above Steubenville, and in the Scioto country, in Ohio. The water is frequently obtained by boring through rock, of* different strata, sev- eral hundred feet deep. Copper, antimony, manganese, and several other minerals, are found in different parts of the West, but are Hot yet worked. Nitrate of potash is found in great abundance, in the caverns of Kentucky and Tennessee, also in Missouri, from which large quantities of salt- petre are manufactured. Sulphate of magnesia is found in Kentucky, Indiana, and perhaps other States. Sulphur, and other mineral springs, are very common in the Western States. Vegetable Productions, Trees, <$~c. Almost every species of timber and shrub, common to the Atlantic States, is found in some part of the Western Valley. The cotton-wood and sycamore are found along all the rivers below the 41st deg. of north latitude. The cypress begins near the mouth of the Ohio, and spreads through the alluvion portions of the Lower Valley. The magnolia, with its large, beau- tiful flower, grows in Louisiana, and the long leaf pine flourishes in the uplands of the same region. The sugar-maple abounds in the northern and middle portions. The chestnut, is found in the eastern portion of the Valley, as far as Indiana, but not a tree is known to exist in a natural state, west of the Wabash 40 PECK'S GUIDE. river. Yellow or pitch pine grows in sev- eral counties of Missouri, especially on the Gasconade, from whence large quantities of lumber are brought to St. Louis. White pine, from the Alleghany river, is annually sent to all the towns on the Ohio, and further down. Considerable quantities of white pine grow on the Upper Mississippi, along the western shore of Michigan, about Green Bay, and along the shores of lake Superior. The yellow poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera) is a majestic tree, valuable for light boards, and may be found in some parts of most of the Western States. The beech tree is frequently found in company. The live-oak, so valuable in ship-building, is found south of the 31st de- gree, and along the Louisiana coast. The orange, fig, olive, pine-apple, &c., find a genial climate about New Orleans. High inthe north, we have the birch, hemlock, fir, and other trees peculiar to a cold region. Amongst our fruit-bearing trees, we may enumerate the walnut, hickory, or shag-bark, persimmon, pecaun, mulberry, crab-apple, paupau, wild plum, and wild cherry. The vine grows every where. Of the various species of oak, elm, ash, linden, hackberry, &c., it is un- necessary to speak. Where forests abound, the trees are tall and majestic. In the prairie country, the timber is usually found on the streams, or in detached groves. In the early settlement of Kentucky, there were found, south of Green river, large GENERAL VIEW. 41 tracts, with stunted, scattering trees, inter- mixed svith hazel and brushwood. From this appearance it was inferred that the soil was of inferior quality, and these tracts were de- nominated "barrens." Subsequently, it was found that this land was of prime quality. The term "barrens " is now applied, exten- sively, in the West, to the same description of country. It distinguishes an intermediate grade, from forest and prairie. A common error has prevailed abroad, that our prairie land is wet. Prairie is a French word, sig- nifying meadow, and is applied to any descrip- tion of surface, that is destitute of timber and brushwood, and clothed with grass. Wet, dry, level, and undulating, are terms of de- scription, merely, and apply to prairies in the same sense as they do to forests. The prairies, in summer, are clothed with grass, herbage and flowers ; exhibit a delightful prospect, and furnish most abundant and luxuriant pasturage for stock. Much of the forest land, in the Western Valley produces a fine range for domestic animals and swine. Thousands are raised, and the emigrant grows wealthy, from the bounties of nature, with but little labor. Of animals, birds, and reptiles, little need be said. The buffalo was in Illinois the be- ginning of the present century. They are not found now, within three hundred miles of Missouri and Arkansas, and they are fast re- ceding. Deer are found still in all frontier 3 42 PECK'S GUIDE. settlements. Wolves, foxes, racoons, wild cats, opossums and squirrels are plenty. The brown bear is still hunted in some parts of the Western States. Col. Crockett was a famous bear-hunter, in Western Tennessee. The white bear, mountain sheep, antelope and beaver, are found in the defiles of the Rocky mountains. The elk is still found by the hunter contiguous to newly formed settle- ments. All the domestic animals of the United States flourish here. Nearly all the feathered tribe of the Atlan- tic slope are to be found in the Valley. Peli- cans, wild geese, swans, cranes, ducks, paro- quets, wild turkies, prairie hens, &.C., are found in different States, especially on the Mississippi. Reptiles. The rattlesnake, copperhead snake, moccasin snake, bull snake, and the various snakes usually found in the Atlantic States, are here. Of the venomous kinds, mul- titudes are destroyed by the deer and swine. Chameleons and scorpions exist in the Lower Valley, and lizards, every where. The al- ligator, an unwieldy and bulky animal, is found in the rivers and lakes south of latitude 34 north. He sometimes destroys calves and pigs, and, very rarely, even young chil- dren. History. The honor of the discovery of this country is disputed by the Spanish, English and French. It is probable that Sebastian Cabot sailed along the shores of what was GENERAL VIEW. 43 afterwards called Florida, but a few years after Columbus discovered America. Span- ish authors claim that Juan Ponce de Leon discovered and named Florida, in 1512. Nar- vaez, another Spanish commander, having obtained a grant of Florida, in 1528, landed four or five hundred men, but was lost by shipwreck, near the mouth of the Mississippi. Ferdinand de Soto was probably the first white man who saw the Mississippi river. He is said to have marched 1000 men from Florida, through the Chickasaw country, to the Mississippi, near the mouth of Red river, where he took sick and died. His men re- turned. Some writers suppose De Soto trav- elled as far north as Kentucky, or the Ohio river. This is not probable. The French were the first to explore and settle the West, and they held jurisdiction over the country of Illinois for eighty years, when it fell into the hands of the British upon the conquest of Canada. In 1564, Florida was settled by a colony of Huguenots, under Admiral Coligny, who were afterwards massacred by the Spaniards, because they were Protestant heretics! In 1608, Admiral Champlaine founded Que- bec, from which, French settlements spread through the Canadas. About 1670, the notion prevailed amongst the French that visited Canada, that a west- ern passage to the Pacific ocean existed. They learned from the Indians, that far in v 44 the west there was a great river, but of its course or termination they could learn noth- ing. They supposed that this river com- municated with the Western ocean. To investigate this question, P. Marquette, a Jesuit, and Joliet, were appointed by M. Talon, the Intendant of New France. Mar- quette was well acquainted with the Canadas, and had great influence with the Indian tribes. They conducted an expedition through the lakes, up Green bay and Fox river, to the Portage, where it approaches the Wisconsin, to which they passed, and descended that river to the Mississippi, which they reached the 17h of June, 1673. They found a river much larger and deeper than it had been represented by the Indians. Their regular journal was lost on their return to Canada; but from the account afterwards given by Joliet, they found the natives friendly, and that a tra- dition existed amongst them of the residence of a "Mon-e-to," or spirit, near the mouth of the Missouri, which they could not pass. They turned their course up the Illinois, and were highly delighted with the placid stream, and the woodlands and prairies through which it flowed. They were hospitably received, and kindly treated, by the Illinois, a numerous nation of Indians, who were destitute of the cruelty of savages. The word " Illinois," or " Illini," is said by Hennepin, to signify a "full grown man." This nation appears to have originally possessed the Illinois country, GENERAL VIEW. 45 and also a portion west of the Mississippi. The nation was made up of eight tribes; the Miamies, Michigamies, Mascotins, Kas- kaskias Kahokias, Peorias, Piankeshaws, and Tau-mar-waus. Marquette continued among these Indians, with a view to christianize them; but Joliet returned to Canada, and reported the discov- eries he had made. Several years elapsed before any one at- tempted to follow up the discoveries of Mar- quette and Joliet. M. de La Salle, a native of Normandy, but who had resided many years in Canada, was the first to extend these early discoveries. He was a man of intelli- gence, talents, enterprise, and perseverance. After obtaining the sanction of the king of France, he set out on his projected expedi- tion in 1678, from Frontenac, with Chevalier Tonti, his lieutenant, and Father Hennepin, a Jesuit missionary, and thirty or forty men. He spent about one year in exploring the country bordering on the lakes, and in select- ing positions for forts and trading posts, to secure the Indian trade to the French. After he had built a fort at Niagara, and fitted out a small vessel, he sailed through the lakes to Green bay, then called the "Bay of Puants." From thence he proceeded with his men in canoes towards the south end of lake Michi- gan, and arrived at the mouth of the "river of the Miamis" in November, 1679. This is thought to be the Milwaukee, in Wisconsin 46 PECK'S GUIDE. Territory. Here he built a fort, left eight or ten men, and passed with the rest of his com- pany across the country, to the waters of the Illinois river, and descended that river a considerable distance, when he was stopped for want of supplies. This was occasioned by the loss of a boat, which had been sent from his post on Green bay. He was now compelled by necessity to build a fort, which, on account of the anxiety of mind he expe- rienced, was called Creve-cceur, or broken heart. The position of this fort cannot now be as- certained, but from some appearances, it is thought to have been near Spring bay, in the north-east part of Tazewell county. At this period, the Illinois were engaged hi a war with the Iroquois, a numerous, warlike, and cruel nation, with whom La Salle had traded, while on the borders of Canada. The former, according to Indian notions of friend- ship, expected assistance from the French; but the interests and safety of La Salle de- pended upon terminating this warfare, and to this object he directed his strenuous efforts. The suspicious Illinois construed this into treachery, which was strengthened by the malicious and perfidious conduct of some of his own men, and pronounced upon him the sen- tence of death. Immediately he formed and executed the bold and hazardous project of foing alone and unarmed to the camp of the llinois, and vindicating his conduct. He de- GENERAL VIEW. 47 clared his innocence of the charges, arid de- manded the author. He urged that the war should be terminated, and that the hostile na- tions should live in peace. The coolness, bravery, and eloquence of La Salle filled the Indians with astonishment, and entirely changed their purposes. The calumet was smoked, presents mutually ex- changed, and a treaty of amity concluded. The original project of discovery was now pursued. Father Hennepin started on the 28th of February, 1680, and, having passed down the Illinois, ascended the Mississippi, to the falls of St. Anthony. Here he was taken prisoner, robbed, and carried to the Indian villages, from which he made his es- cape, returned to Canada, by the way of the Wisconsin, and from thence to France, where he published an account of his travels.* La Salle visited Canada to obtain sup- plies, returned to Creve-cceur, and shortly after descended the Illinois and then the Mis- sissippi, where he built one or two forts on its banks, and took possession of the country in the name of the king of France, and in honor of him called it Louisiana. One of these forts is thought to have been built on the west side of the river, between St. Louis and Carondalet. After descending the Mississippi, to its * It is difficult to determine when Hennepin writes truth or fiction. Some of his statements must be received with considerable drawback. 48 PECK'S GUIDE. mouth, he returned to the Illinois, and on his way back, left some of his companions to oc- cupy the country. This is supposed to have been the commencement of the villages of Kaskaskia and Cahokia, in 1683. La Salle went to France, fitted out an expedition to form a colony at the mouth of the Mississippi, sailed to the gulf of Mexico, but not being able to find the mouths of that river, he com- menced an overland journey to his fort on the Illinois. On this journey, he was basely as- sassinated by two of his own n*en.* After the death of La Salle, no attempts to discover the mouth of the Mississippi were made till about 1699, but the settlements in the Illinois country were gradually increased by emigrants from Canada. In 1712, the king of France, by letters pa- tent, gave the whole country of Louisiana to M. Crosat, with the commerce of the country, with the profits of all the mines, reserving for his own use, one fifth of the gold and silver. After expending large sums, in digging and exploring for the precious metals, without success, Crosat gave up his privilege to the king, in 1717. Soon after, the colony was granted to the Mississippi company, projected by Mr. Law, which took possession of Louis- * La Salle appears to have discovered the bay of St. Bernard, and formed a settlement on the western side of the Colorado, in 1685. See J. Q. Adams's Correspon- dence with Don Orris. Pub. Doc., first session t fifteentli. Congress, 1818. GENERAL VIEW. 49 iana, and appointed M. Bienville, governor. In 1719, La Harpe commanded a fort, with French troops, not far from the mouth of the Missouri river. Shortly after, several forts were built with- in the present limit of Illinois, of which, Fort Chartres was the most considerable. By these means, a chain of communication was formed from Canada, to the mouth of the Mississippi. In 1699, M. Ibberville arrived in the gulf of Mexico, with two frigates, and, in March, ascended the river, in a felucca, one hundred leagues, and returned by the bayou or outlet that bears his name, through lake Ponchar- train to the gulf. He planted his colony at Biloxi, a healthy but sterile spot, between the Mobile and Mississippi rivers, and built a for- tification. During several succeeding years, much exploring was done, and considerable trade carried on with the Indians, for peltries, yet these expeditions were a source of much expense to France. In January, 1702, the colony at Mobile was planted; several other settlements were soon after formed. The Catholics also commenced several missions amongst the Indians. Diffi- culties frequently occurred with their Spanish neighbors in Florida and Mexico. M. Ibberville died in 1706, and M. Bienville succeeded him in the government of Louisiana for many years. The city of New Orleans was founded, during his administration, in 50 PECK'S GUIDE. 1719. It is situated on the east bank of the Mississippi, one hundred and five miles from its mouth. From 1723 to 1730, the French had exterminating wars with the Natchez, a powerful nation of Indians. They had killed 700 French in 1723, and about 1730 the French exterminated the nation. Various wars took place subsequently with the Span- ish and English. But over most of the In- dians along the Mississippi, these French colonists gained extraordinary influence. Du- ring this period, emigrants continued to arrive from France, so that the colonists rapidly in- creased in numbers. The Mississippi land scheme, or "bubble," as it was called, originated with the celebra- ted John Law, in 1717, which soon burst, and spread ruin throughout the moneyed interests of France. The amount of stock created, was said to equal 310,000,000 of dollars. The whole proved an entire failure, but it served to increase greatly the population of Louisiana, so that, from 1736, the colonies in the Lower Valley prospered. In 1754, the war commenced between France and England relative to the bounda- ries of the Canadas. At that period, France claimed all the countries west of the Alle- ghany mountains, while England, on the other hand, had granted to Virginia, Connecticut and other colonies, charters which extended across the continent to the "South sea," as the Pacific ocean was then called. A grant GENERAL VIEW. 51 also was made by Virginia, and the crown of Great Britain, of 600,000 acres, to a company called "The Ohio Company." The governor of New France, as Canada and Louisiana was then called, protested, erected forts on lake Erie, and at the present site of Pittsburgh, and enlisted the Indians against the English and Americans. Pittsburgh was then called Fort du Quesne. Then followed Braddock's war, as this contest is called, in the West, the mission of Major (afterward General) Washington, the defeat of Braddock; and, finally, by the memorable victory of Wolfe at Quebec, and the lesser ones at Niagara and Ticonderoga, and by victories of the English fleet on the ocean, the French were humbled, and, at the treaty of Paris, in 1763, surren- dered all their claims to the country east of the Mississippi. Towards the close of the war, however, France, by a secret treaty, ceded all the country west of the Mississippi, and including New Orleans, to Spain, who held possession till 1803, when it was deliver- ed to the French government under Napoleon, and by him ceded to the United States for 15,000,000 of dollars. The English held possession of the military posts, and exercised jurisdiction over the country of Illinois, and the adjacent regions, till 1778, during the revolutionary war; when, by a secret expedition, without direct legisla- tive sanction, but by a most enterprising, skilful, and hazardous military manoeuvre, the 52 PECK'S GUIDE. posts of Kaskaskia, Cahokia, Fort Chartres and Vincennes were captured by Gen. GEORGE ROGERS CLARK, with a small force of volun- teer Americans, and that portion of the Valley fell under the jurisdiction of Virginia. The legislature of Virginia sanctioned the expedition of Clark, which the Executive, Patrick Henry and his council, with Thomas Jefferson, George Wythe, and George Ma- son, by written instructions, had agreed should be done, and a county called "Illi- nois" was organized the same year. In 1784, Virginia, in conjunction with other States, ceded all claims to the Great West to the United States, reserving certain tracts for the payment of revolutionary claims. This cession laid the foundation for five new States north-west of Ohio, when each district should have 60,000 inhabitants, and even a less number, by consent of Congress. Two re- strictions were peremptorily enjoined, that each State should adopt a constitution with a republican form of government, and that slave- ry or involuntary servitude should be for ever prohibited. It is unnecessary here to enter into details of the settlement of each particular State, the incessant attacks from the Indians, the border wars that ensued, the adventures of Boone and his associates in settling Ken- tucky, the unfortunate campaigns of Har- mar and St. Clair, -the victorious one of Wayne, or the reminiscences and events of GENERAL VIEW. 53 the war of 1812, and its termination in 1815. Some historical notices of each State may be found in their proper place. Prospective Increase of Population. For a long period, in the States of the West, the in- crease of population was slow, and retarded by several causes. Difficulties of a formida- ble character had to be surmounted. The footsteps of the American emigrants were every where drenched in blood, shed by infu- riated savage foes, and before 1790, more than 5000 persons had been murdered, or taken captive and lost to the settlements. "It has been estimated, that, in the short space of seven years, from 1783 to 1790, more than fifteen hundred of the inhabitants of Kentucky were either massacred or carried away into a captivity worse than death, by the Indians ; and an equal number from Western Pennsylvania and Virginia, in the same period, met with a similar fate. The settlers on the frontiers were almost constant- ly, for a period of forty years, harassed either by actual attacks of the savages, or the daily expectation of them. The tomahawk and the scalping-knife were the objects of their fears by day and by night."* Hence, in suggesting reasons showing why the population of this Valley must increase in future in a far greater ratio than in the past, it will appear, 1. That the most perfect security is now * Baird. 54 PECK'S GUIDE. enjoyed by all emigrants, both for their fami- lies and property. By the wise and beneficent arrangement of government, the Indian tribes have nearly all removed to the Territory specially allotted for their occupancy west of Missouri and Ar- kansas. The grand error committed in past times in relation to the Indians, and which has been the source of incalculable evils to both races, has been the want of definite, fixed and permanent lines of demarcation be- twixt them. It will be seen, under the proper head, that a system of measures is now in operation that will not only preserve peace between the frontier settlements and the In- dian tribes, but that, to a great extent, they are becoming initiated into the habits of civil- ized life. There is now no more danger to the population of these States and Territories from Indian depredations, than to the people of the Atlantic States. 2. The increased facilities of emigration, and the advantage of sure and certain mar- kets for every species of production, furnish a second reason why population will increase in the Western Valley beyond any former pe- riod. Before the purchase of Louisiana, the west- ern people had no outlet for their produce, and the chief mode of obtaining every de- scription of merchandise, even salt and iron, was by the slow and expensive method of GENERAL VIEW. 55 transportation by wagons and pack-horses, across almost impassable mountains and ex- tremely difficult roads. Now, every conven- ience and luxury of life is carried, with com- parative ease, to every town and settlement throughout the Valley, and every species of produce is sent off, in various directions, to every port on earth, if necessary. And these facilities are multiplying and increasing every hour. Turnpike roads, rail-roads, canals, and steam-boat navigation have already pro- vided such facilities for removing from the Atlantic to the Western States, that no family desirous of removing, need hesitate or make a single inquiry as to facilities of getting to this country. 3. The facilities of trade and intercourse between the different sections of the Valley, are now superior to most countries, and are increasing every year. And no country on earth admits of such indefinite improvement, either by land or water. More than twenty thousand miles of actual steam-boat naviga- tion, with several hundred miles of canal nav- igation, constructed or commenced, attest the truth of this statement. The first steam-boat on the western waters was built at Pittsburgh in 1811, and not more than seven or eight had been built, when the writer emigrated to this country in 1817. At this period (Janu- ary, 1836), there are several hundred boats an the western waters, and some of the larg- est size. In 1817, about twenty barges, 56 PECK'S GUIDE. averaging about one hundred tons each, per- formed the whole commercial business of transporting merchandise from New Orleans to Louisville and Cincinnati. Each perform- ed one trip, going and returning within the year. About 150 keel-boats performed the business on the Upper Ohio to Pittsburgh. These averaged about 30 tons each, and were employed one month in making the voyage from Louisville to Pittsburgh. Three days, or three days and a half, is now the usual time occupied by the steam-packets between the two places, and from seven to twelve days between Louisville and New Orleans. Four days is the time of passing from the former place to St. Louis. 4. A fourth reason why population will in- crease in future in a greater ratio than the past, is derived from the increase of popula- tion in the Atlantic States, and the greater desire foe removal to the West. At the close of the revolutionary war, the population of the whole Union but little exceeded two mil- lions. Vast tracts of wilderness then existed in the old States, which have since been sub- dued, and from whence thousands of enter- prising citizens are pressing their way into the Great Valley. Two thirds of the territo- ry of New York, large portions of New Hampshire, Vermont and Maine, an exten- sive district in Middle Pennsylvania, to say nothing of wide regions in the Southern States, were comprised in this wilderness. These GENERAL VIEW. 57 extensive regions have become populous, and are sending out vast numbers of emigrants to the West. Europe is in commotion, and the emigration to North America, in 1832, reach- ed 200,000, a due proportion of which settle in the Western Valley. 5. A fifth reason will be founded upon the immense amount of land for the occupancy of an indefinite number of emigrants, much of which will not cost the purchaser over one dollar and tiventy-five cents per acre. Without giving the extravagant estimates that have been made by many writers, of the wide and uninhabitable desert between the Indian Ter- ritory west of Missouri and Arkansas and the Rocky mountains, nor swampy and frozen regions at the heads of the Mississippi river and around lake Superior, I will merely ex- hibit the amount of lands admitting of imme- diate settlement and cultivation, within the boundaries of the new States and organized Territories. According to the report of the Secretary of the Treasury up to the 30th day of Septem- ber, 1831, the estimated amount of unsold lands, on which the foreign and Indian titles had been extinguished, within the limits of the new States and Territories, was 227,293,884 acres; and that the Indian title remain- ed on 113,577,869 acres* within the same * See Mr. Clay's Report on the Public Lands, April 26, 1832, U. S. Papers. 3* 58 PECK'S GUIDE. limits. The Commissioner of the General Land Office, in December, 1827, estimated the public domain, beyond the boundaries of the new States and Territories, to be 750,000,000 of acres. Much of this, how- ever, is uninhabitable. According to the Report of 1831, there had been granted to Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and Alabama, for internal improvements, 2,187,665 acres; for colleges, academies, and universities, in the new States and Ter- ritories, 508,009; for education, being the thirty-sixth part of the public lands appro- priated to common schools, 7,952,538 acres; and for seats of government to some of the new States and Territories, 21,589 acres. Up to January, 1326, there had been sold, from the commencement of the land system, only 19,239,412 acres. Since that period, to the close of 1835, there have been sold, about 33,000,000 of acres, making in all sold, a little more than 52,000,000. This statement includes Alabama and Florida, which we have not considered as strictly within the Valley. After a hasty and somewhat imperfect esti- mate of the public lands, that are now in market, or will be brought into market within a few years, within the limits of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Mississippi, Louisiana, Ar- kansas, Michigan, and the Territory of Wis- consin, the amount may be put at 130,000,000 of acres. This amount admits of immediate settlement and cultivation, and much of it may GENERAL VIEW. 59 be put under cultivation without the immense labor of clearing and subduing forest lands. The comparison between the amount of sales of public lands within the last ten years, and the preceding forty years, shows that emigration to the West is increasing at a ratio beyond what is ordinarily supposed, and that the next ten years will find a majority of the population of the United States within this Great Valley. Sales of Land, From 1786 to 1826, (forty years) 19,239,412 acres. " 1826 " 1835, (ten years) 33,000,000 Three millions of families may find farms in the West. The extensive prairie lands of Illinois and Missouri present no obstacle to the settle- ment of the country. Already, prairies, for many miles in extent,' have been turned into farms. 6. A sixth reason why the increase of the future population of the Valley will greatly exceed the past, is derived from the increased confidence of the community in the general health of the country. The most unreason- able notions have prevailed abroad relative to the health cf the Western States. All new settlements are more or less unfavorable to health, which, when cultivated and settled, become healthy. As a separate chapter will be devoted to this subject, I only advert to the fact now, of the increased confidence of the people in the Atlantic States, in the salu- 60 PECK'S GUIDE. brity of our western climate, which, already, has tended to increase emigration; but which, from facts becoming more generally known, will operate to a much greater extent in future. 7. I will only add, that there is already a great amount of intelligence, and of excellent society, in all the settled portions of the West- ern Valley. " The idea is no longer entertained by east- ern people, that going to the West, or the 'backwoods,' as it was formerly called, is to remove to a heathen land, to a land of igno- rance and barbarism, where the people do nothing but rob, and fight, and gouge! Some parts of the West have obtained this charac- ter, but most undeservedly, from the Fearons, the [Basil] Halls, the Trollopes, and other ig- norant and insolent travelers from England, who, because they were not allowed to insult and outrage as they pleased, with Parthian spirit, hurled back upon us their poisoned javelins and darts, as they left us. There is, indeed, much destitution of moral influence and means of instruction in many, very many, neighborhoods of the West. But there is, in all the principal towns, a state of society, with which the most refined, I was going to say the most fastidious, of the eastern cities, need not be ashamed to mingle."* The eastern emigrant will find, that whole- some legislation, and much of the influence * Puird. GENERAL VIEW. 61 of religion, are enjoyed in the Valley of the Mississippi; extending to him all he can ask in the enjoyment of his rights, and the protec- tion of his property. Common school systems have been com- menced in some of the States; others are following their example, and the subject of general education is receiving increasing at- tention every year. Colleges, and other lit- erary institutions, are planted; and religious institutions, and means of religious instruc- tion, are rapidly increasing. Noble and suc- cessful efforts are making by the Bible, mis- sionary, tract, Sabbath school, temperance, and other societies, in the West. Great and rapid changes are taking place, if not to the extent we desire, yet corresponding in a de- gree with the gigantic march of emigration and population. Many other reasons might be urged to show that its prospective increase of population will vastly exceed the ratio of its retrospective increase, but these are sufficient. CHAPTER III. CLIMATE. Comparative View of the Climate with the Atlantic States Diseases Means of preserving Health. IN a country of such vast extent, through fifteen degrees of latitude, the climate must necessarily be various. Louisiana, Mississip- pi, and the lower half of Arkansas, lie between the latitudes of 30 and 35, and correspond with Georgia and South Carolina. Their difference of climate is not material. The northern half of Arkansas, Tennessee, and Kentucky, lie west from North Carolina and the southern portion of Virginia. The cli- mate varies from those States only as they are less elevated than the mountainous parts of Virginia and Carolina. Hence, the emigrant from the southern Atlantic States, unless he comes from a mountainous region, will ex- perience no great change of climate, by emigrating to the Lower Mississippi Valley. Missouri, Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio, lie par- CLIMATE. 63 allel with the northern half of Virginia, Mary- land, Delaware, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and so much of New York and New England as lies south of latitude 42 north. But seve- ral circumstances combine to produce varia- tions in the climate: 1. Much of those Atlantic States are hilly, and, in many parts, mountainous, some of which are two and three thousand feet above the level of the ocean. The parallel Western States have no mountains, and are riot propor- tionably hilly. 2. The Atlantic States border on the ocean, on the east, and feel the influence of the cold, damp winds, from the north-east and east. Their rains are more copious, and their snows deeper. The northern portions of the West, equally with New York and Vermont, are affected with the influence of the lakes, though not to the same extent. 3. " The courses of rivers, by changing, in some degree, the direction of the winds, ex- ert an influence on the climate. In the At- lantic States, from New England to North Carolina, the rivers run more or less to the south-east, and increase the winds which blow from the north-west, while the great bed of the Mississippi exerts an equal influence in augmenting the number and steadiness of the winds which blow over it from the south-west; and there is another cause of difference in climate, chiefly perceptible, first, in the tem- perature, which, if no counteracting cause 64 PECK'S GUIDE. existed, they would raise in the West, consid- erably above that of corresponding latitudes in the East; and, secondly, in the moisture of the two regions, which is generally greater west than east of the mountains, when the south-west wind prevails; as much of the wa- ter, with which it comes charged from the gulf of Mexico, is deposited, before it reaches the country east of the Alleghanies."* It is an error, that our climate is more va- riable, or the summers materially hotter, than in a corresponding latitude in the Atlantic States. "The New Englander and New Yorker, north of the mountains of West Point, should bear in mind, that his migra- tion is not to the west, but south-west; and as necessarily brings him into a warmer climate, as when he seeks the shores of the Delaware, Potomac, or James river." The settlers from Virginia to Kentucky, or those from Maryland and Pennsylvania to Ohio, or farther west, have never complained of hotter summers than they had found in the land from whence they came. To institute a comparative estimate of tem- perature, between the East and the West, we must observe, first, the thermometer; and, secondly, the flowering of trees, the putting forth of vegetation, and the ripening of fruits and grain, in correspondent latitudes. This has not usually been done. Philadelphia and * Dr. Drake. CLIMATE. 65 Cincinnati approach nearer to the same par- allel, than any other places where such ob- servations have been made. Cincinnati., how- ever, is about 50' south of Philadelphia. The following remarks are from Dr. Daniel Drake, of Cincinnati, to whose pen the West is much indebted: "From a series of daily observations in Cincinnati, or its vicinity, for eight consecu- tive years, the mean annual temperature has been ascertained to be 54 degrees and a quar- ter. Dr. Rush states the mean temperature of Philadelphia at 52 degrees and a half; Dr. Coxe, from six years' observations, at 54 de- grees and a sixth ; and Mr. Legaux, from sev- enteen years' observations, at Spring Mill, a few miles out of the city, at 53 degrees and a third; the mean term of which results, 53 de- grees and a third, is but the fraction of a de- gree lower than the mean heat of Cincinnati, and actually less than should be afforded by the difference of latitude. " A reference to the temperatures of sum- mer and winter, will give nearly the same re- sults. From nine years' observations (three at Spring Mill, by Mr. Legaux, and six in Philadelphia, by Dr. Coxe), the mean sum- mer heat of that part of Pennsylvania appears to be 76 degrees and six tenths. The mean summer heat at Cincinnati, for an equal num- ber of years, was 74 degrees and four tenths. The average number of days in which the thermometer rose to 90 degrees or upwards, 4 * 66 PECK'S GUIDE. during the same period, was fourteen each summer; and the greatest elevation observed, was 98 degrees; all of which would bear an almost exact comparison with similar obser- vations in Pennsylvania. Mr. Legaux states the most intense cold, at Spring Mill, from 1787 to 1806, to have been 17 degrees and five tenths below cipher; while, within the same period, it was 18 degrees at Cincinnati. The average of extreme cold, for several years, as observed by Mr. Legaux, was one degree and eight tenths below cipher: the same average at Cincinnati, was two degrees below. From all which, we may conclude that the banks of the Delaware and Ohio, in the same latitudes, have nearly the same temperature." The State of Illinois, extending, as it does, through five and a half degrees of latitude, has considerable variation in its climate. It has no mountains, and, though undulating, it cannot be called hilly. Its extensive prairies and level surface, give greater scope to the winds, especially in winter. In the southern part of the State, during the three winter months, snow frequently falls, but seldom lies long. In the northern part, the winters are as cold, but not so much snow falls, as in the same latitudes in the Atlantic States. The Mississippi, at St. Louis, is frequently frozen over, and is crossed on the ice, and, occasionally, for several weeks. The hot season is longer, though not more intense, CLIMATE. 67 than occasionally, for a day or two, in New England. During the years 1817, '18, '19, the Rev. Mr. Giddings, at St. Louis, made a series of observations upon Fahrenheit's thermometer: De ? . Hund. Mean temperature for 1817, 55 52 Mean temperature from the beginning of May, 1818, to the end of April, 1819, . . 56 98 Mean temperature for 1820,. 5G 18 The mean of these results is about fifty-six degrees and a quarter. The mean temperature of each month, du- ring the above years, is as follows: Deg. Hund. January, 30 62 February, ; 38 65 March, 43 13 April, 58 47 May, 62 66 June, 74 47 July, 78 66 August, 72 88 September, 70 10 October, , 59 00 November, 53 13 December, 34 33 The mean temperature of the different sea- sons is as follows: Dog. Hund. Winter, 34 53 Spring, 54 74 Summer, 74 34 Autumn, . . 60 77 68 PECK'S GUIDE. The greatest extremes of heat and cold du- ring my residence of eighteen years, in the vicinity of St. Louis, is as follows: Greatest heat in July, 1820, and July, 1833, 100 degrees. Greatest cold, Jan. 3d, 1834, 18 degrees below zero; Feb. 8th, 1835, 22 degrees below zero. The foregoing facts will doubtless apply to about one half of Illinois. This climate, also, is subject to sudden changes, from heat to cold, from wet to dry, especially from Novem- ber to May. The heat of the summer, below the fortieth degree of latitude, is more ener- vating, and the system becomes more easily debilitated, than in the bracing atmosphere of a more northerly region. At Marietta, Ohio, in latitude 39 25' north, and at the junction of the Muskingum river with the Ohio, the mean temperature, for 1834, was 52 degrees and four tenths; high- est, in August, 95 degrees; lowest, January, at zero. Fair days, 225; cloudy days, 110. At Nashville, Tenn., 1834, the mean tem- perature was 59 degrees and seventy-six hun- dredths; maximum 97, minimum four above zero. The summer temperature of this place never reaches 100 degrees. January 26th. 1832, 18 degrees below zero; February 8th. 1835, 10 degrees below zero. The putting forth of vegetation in the spring, furnishes some evidence of the character of the climate of any country, though by no CLIMATE. 69 means entirely accurate. Other causes com- bine to advance or retard vegetation. A wet or dry season, or a few days of heat or cold, at a particular crisis, will produce material changes. The following table is constructed from memoranda, made at the various dates given, near the latitude of St. Louis, which is com- puted at 38 3(X. The observations of 1819, were made at St. Charles, and vicinity, in the State of Missouri. Those of 1820, in St. Louis county, 17 miles north-west from the city of St. Louis. The remainder, at Rock Spring, Illinois, 18 miles east from St. Louis. It will be perceived, the years are not con- secutive. In 1826, the writer was absent to the Eastern States, and, for 1828, his notes were too imperfect to answer the purpose. In the column showing the times of the first snows, and the first and last frosts in the sea- son, a little explanation may be necessary. A "light" snow means merely enough to whiten the earth, and which usually disap- pears in a few hours. Many of the frosts recorded "light," were not severe enough to kill ordinary vege- tation. 70 PECK'S GUIDE. utuninv ^ s-i CO i .1 ^ R ^ UI JSOJJ JS.1IJ 1 ^oo- II 1 O II ii ll oJa f Snudg ui OcT bJD _2 ; || c al 14 5 tc "S 1SOJJ JSBq a) t- II Jl ll 1 j 11 1 not no J91UIM JO qoBoaddu s 11 S". . i bp i Ml 1. UO AUHIS * . 1 t ofTx" r* ' a> UO ^ I8JIJ ^ ij II il O i 1 g Qoo O || qjjoj ind -aoj aeqio is >-. =s II si" P Ul Ml. I.I I 1 ^ >, '^ T e n ^ ."3 ~ < 6 fr 8 4 * 4 1 3 4' 7 i 6 8 4 5 6 3 4 6 3 3 5 9 April, May, June, July, . . . Angust, September, . . . October, November, . . . December, . . . Total, 87 14 221 106 14 136 16,50 62 CLIMATE. 73 The results of my own observations, made for twelve years, with the exception of 1826, and with some irregularity, from traveling in different parts of Missouri and Illinois, during the time, do not vary in any material degree from the above table, excepting fewer east and north-east winds. Dr. Drake has given a table, setting forth the results of 4268 observations on the state of the weather at Cincinnati, from which it will be perceived that of the 365 days in a year, about 176 will be fair, 105 cloudy, and 84 variable. Dr. L. C. Beck made similar observations at St. Louis, during the year 1820, which produced the result of 245 clear days, and cloudy, including variable days, 1 10. Variable days. 68 91 85 107 68 74 Years. Clear days. Cloudy days. 1 . . . .180 107 2 . . . .158 112 3. . 187 78 4 152 106 5 185 111 6 172 112 Total, 6 1034 626 Mean terms, 172. 33 104. 33 493 82.16 The following table shows the condition of the weather, in each month of a mean year, for the above period: 74 Months. Clear days. Cloudy days. Variable days. January, 9. 8 13. 1 7. 8 February, 10. 3 12. 6. 5 March, 13. 5 9. 1 8. 3 April, 13.1 10.8 7.6 May, 15. 8. 5 7. 5 June, 15. 5 5. 9. 6 July, 19. 5. 5 6. August, 19. 6 4. 6 6. 5 September, ... 19. 5 5. 3 6. 1 October, 16. 1 6. 8. 1 November, ... 9. 5 13. 5 5. 5 December, ... 9. 6 14. 1 5. 8 There would be some variations from the foregoing table, in a series of observations in the country bordering upon the Upper Mis- sissippi and Missouri. The weather in the States of Ohio and Kentucky, is, doubtless, more or less affected in autumn, by the rains that fall on the Alleghany mountains, and the rise of the Ohio and its tributaries. So the weather in the months of April, May and June, in Missouri, is affected by the spring floods of the Missouri and Mississippi rivers. The following table is constructed from a series of observations made at the military posts in the West, by the surgeons of the United States army, for four years, 1822, 1823, 1824 and 1825. (See American Alma- nac for 1834, p. 81.) CLIMATE. 75 ffflf fcfS-1.8.^ Br2,2-3 sg- B_ _T3 g 9 5'.-~'o ^ I' Hi ill mil 3 i. f Ml? f ^ : * i^i i CO CO t>3 CO Or 05 CJ1 O CO iti! 00 CO tO 10 CO tO tO H- CO t^ 00 Ot CO North latitude Elevation above ocean. Mean Temp. for four years. Maximum. Minimum Range of Thermometer. *. C5 05 . to co o Jl tO CO *. OX to co cc m upon the actual manufactures of October, and the known power of their machinery, the company will, the ensuing year, give employment to more than four hundred operatives, and manufac- ture, Cotton bagging, 60,000 pounds, " yarns,. . . 84,000 " Bale rope, 274,268 Cordage, 448,000 Linseys, 44,592 yards, Cotton plains, 63,588 " Kentucky jeans, 97,344 " Cotton bagging and hemp, 548,530 " "Estimating bale rope and cotton bagging at thirty-three per cent, under the price at which the company have sold these articles for the last ix months, the manufactures of this company, during the ensuing year, will amount to $358,548 44. Almost all the manu- factures at Covington and Newport being ex- ported to foreign markets, it will result that the annual exports from these points will, in round numbers, be, from the Interior, $750,000 Campbell county, 150,000 Boone " 234,000 Covington, 648,500 Newport, 358,500 $2,041,000 " The Newport Manufacturing Company has depended principally, for its supply of CHARACTER, PURSUITS, ETC. 119 hemp, on the production of Mason county, of which Maysville is the market. This season, they have not been able to get a supply at Maysville; and.it is a remarkable fact in the history of the hemp manufactories in Ken- tucky, that this company, owing to the scarci- ty and high prices of hemp in Kentucky, have imported this season, 354,201 Ibs. Russia hemp." Various manufactories are springing up in all the new States, which will be noticed un- der their proper heads. The number of merchants and traders is very great in the Valley of the Mississippi, yet mercantile business is rapidly increasing. Thousands of the farmers of the West are partial traders. They take their own pro- duce, in their own flat boats, down the rivers to the market of the lower country. Frontier Class of Population. The rougji, sturdy habits of the backwoodsmen, living in that plenty which depends on God and na- ture, have laid the foundation of independent thought and feeling deep in the minds of west- ern people. Generally, in all the western settlements, three classes, like the waves of tjie .oeean^ have rolled one after the other. Firstj comes the pioneer, who depends for the subsistence of his family chiefly upon the natural growth of vegetation, called the "range," and the proceeds of hunting. His implements of ag- riculture are rude, chiefly of his own make, and his efforts directed mainly to a crop of 120 PECK'S GUIDE. *! : % corn, and a "truck patch." The last is a rude garden for growing cabbage, beans, corn for roasting ears, cucumbers and potatoes. A log cabin, and, occasionally, a stable and corn-crib, and a field of a dozen acres, the timber girdled or "deadened/' and fenced, are enough for his occupancy. It is quite im- material whether he ever becomes the owner of the soil. He is the occupant for the time being, pays no rent, and feels as independent as the " lord of the manor." With a horse, cow, and one or two breeders of swine, he strikes into the woods with his family, and becomes the founder of a new county, or per- haps State. He builds his cabin, gathers around him a few other families of similar taste f and habits, and occupies till the range is somewhat subdued, and hunting a little pre- carious, or, which is more frequently the case, till neighbors crowd around, roads, bridges and fields annoy him, and he lacks elbow room. The preemption law enables him to dispose of his cabin and corn-field, to the next class of emigrants, and, to employ his. own figures, he " breaks for the high tirn- %er," '' clears out for the New Purchase," or migrates to Arkansas, or Texas, to work the same process over. The next class of emigrants purchase the lands, add field to field, clear out the roads, throw rough bridges over the streams, put up hewn log houses, with glass windows, and brick or stone chimneys, occasionally plant CHARACTER, PURSUITS, ETC. 121 m % orchards, build mills, school-houses, court- houses, &c., and exhibit the picture and forms of plain, frugal, civilized life. Another wave rolls on. The men of capital and enterprise come. The "settler" is ready to sell out, and take the advantage of the rise of property, push farther into the interior, and become himself, a man of capital and en- terprise in turn. The small village rises to a spacious town or city; substantial edifices of brick, extensive fields, orchards, gardens, colleges and churches are seen. Broadcloths, silks, leghorns, crapes, and all the refinements luxuries, elegancies, frivolities and fashions, are in vogue. Thus wave after wave is roll- ing westward: the real el dorado is still far- L 4her on. A portion of the two first classes remain stationary amidst the general movement, im- ^ prove their habits and condition, and rise in the scale of society. The writer has traveled much amongst the iirst class, the real pioneers. He has lived many years in connexion with the second grade; and now the third wave is sweeping over large districts of Indiana, Illinois and Missouri. Migration has become almost a habit, in the West. Hundreds of men can be found, not fifty years of age, who have settled for the fourth, fifth, or sixth time on a new spot. To sell out, and remove only a few hundred miles, makes up a portion of the va- riety of backwoods life and manners. 122 PECK'S GUIDE. But to return to the frontier class: 1. Dress. The hunting-shirt is universally worn. This is a kind of loose, open frock, reaching halfway down the thighs, with large sleeves, the body open in front, lapped over and belted with a leathern girdle, held to- gether by a buckle. The cape is large, and usually fringed with different colored cloth from that of the body. The bosom of this dress sometimes serves as a wallet for a "chunk" of bread, jerk or smoke-dried veni- son, and other articles. It is made either of dressed deer-skins, linsey, coarse linen, or cotton. The shirt, waistcoat and pantaloons are of similar articles, and of the customary form. Wrappers, of cloth or dressed skins, called " leggins," are tied round the legs when traveling. Moccasins, of deer skins, shoe-packs and rough shoes, the leather tan- ned and cobbled by the owner, are worn on the feet. The females dress in a coarse gown, of cot- ton, a bonnet of the same stuff, and denomi- nated in the Eastern States a " sun bonnet." The latter is constantly worn through the day, especially when company is present. The clothing, for both sexes, is made at home. The wheel and loom are common articles of furniture, in every cabin. 2. Dwellings. "Cabin" is the name fora plain, rough log house, throughout the West. The spot being selected, usually, in the tim- bered land, and near some spring, the first CHARACTER, PURSUITS, ETC. 123 operation of the newly arrived emigrant is to cut about forty logs, of the proper size and length, for a single cabin, or twice that nMm- ber for a double one, and haul them to the spot. A large oak, or other suitable timber, of staight grain and free from limbs, is selected for clapboards for the roof: these are four feet in length, split with a froe, six or eight inches wide and half an inch thick. Puncheons are used for the floor: these are made by splitting trees, about eighteen inches in diameter, into slabs, two or three inches in thickness, and hewn on the upper surface. The door-way is made by cutting out the logs, after raising, of a suitable width, and putting upright pieces of timber at the sides. The shutter is made of clapboards, pinned on cross pieces, hung by Wooden hinges, and fastened by a wooden latch. A similar aperture, but wider, is made at one end, for the chimney. The men of the settlement, when notified, collect and raise the building. Four stout men, with axes, are placed on the corners, to notch the logs to- gether, while the rest of the company lift them up. After the roof is on, the body of the build- ing is slightly hewed down, both outside and inside. The roof is formed by shortening each end log, in succession, till one log forms the comb of the roof. The clapboards are put on so as to cover all cracks, and held down by poles, or small logs. The chimney is built of sticks of wood, the largest at the bottom, and the smallest at the top, and laid up with a sup- 124 ply of mud or clay mortar. The interstices between the logs are chinked with strips of wood, and daubed with mortar, both outside and inside. A double cabin consists of two such buildings, with a space of ten or twelve feet between, over which the roof extends. A log house, in western parlance, differs from a cabin, in the logs being hewn on two sides, to an equal thickness, before raising; in having a framed and shingled roof, a brick or stone chimney, windows, tight floors, and are frequently clapboarded on the outside, and plastered within. A log house thus finished, costs more than a framed one. Cabins are often the tempora- ry dwelling of opulent and highly respectable families. The axe, auger, froe, drawing-knife, broad axe, and cross-cut saw, are the only tools re- quired in constructing these rude edifices; sometimes the axe and auger only are em- ployed. Not a nail or pane of glass is need- ed. Cabins are by no means so wretched for residences, as their name imports. They are often roomy, comfortable and neat. If one is not sufficient to accommodate the family, another is added, and another, until sufficient room is obtained. 3. Furniture, and mode of living. The genu- ine backwoodsman makes himself and family comfortable and contented, where those, un- accustomed to his mode of life, would live in unavailing regret, or make a thousand awk- CHARACTER, PURSUITS, ETC. 125 ward apologies on the visit of a neighbor or traveler. A table is made of a split slab, and supported by four round legs. Clapboards, supported by pins stuck in the logs, answer for shelves for table furniture. The bedstead is often made in the corner of the room, by sticks, placed in the logs, supported at the I outward corner by a post, on which clapboards ! are laid, the ends of which enter the wall, be- tween the logs, and which support the bed- ding. On the arrival of travelers or visiters, the bed clothing is shared with them, being | spread on the puncheon floor, that the feet [may project towards the fire. Many a night has the writer passed in this manner, after a fatiguing day's ride, and reposed more com- fortably than on a bed of down, in a spacious mansion. All the family, of both sexes, with all the strangers who arrive, often lodge in the same room. In that case, the under gar- ments are nover taken off, and no conscious- ness of impropriety or indelicacy of feeling is manifested. A few pins, stuck in the wall of the cabin, display the dresses of the women and the hunting-shirts of the men. Two small forks, or buck's horns, fastened to a joist, are indispensable articles for the support of the I rifle. A loose floor of clapboards, and sup- ported by round poles, is thrown over head, for a loft, which furnishes a place to throw any articles not immediately wanted, and is frequently used for a lodging place for the younger branches of the family. A ladder 126 PECK'S GUIDE. planted in the corner, behind the door, an- swers the purpose of stairs. The necessary table and kitchen furniture are a few pewter dishes and spoons, knives and forks (for which, however, the common hunting-knife is often a substitute), tin cups, for coffee or rnilk, a water-pail, and a small gourd or calabash for water, with a pot, and iron Dutch oven, constitute the chief articles. Add to these a tray, for wetting up meal, for corn-bread, a coffee-pot and set of cups and saucers, a set of common plates, and the cabin is furnished. .The hominy mortar and hand-mill, are in use in all frontier settle- ments. The first, consists of a block of wood, with an excavation burned at one end, and scraped out with an iron tool, wide at top and narrow at the bottom, that the action of the pestle may operate to the best advantage. Sometimes a stump of a large tree is excava- ted, while in its natural position; an elastic pole, twenty or thirty feet in length, with the large end fastened under the ground log of the cabin, and the other elevated ten or fifteen feet, and supported by two forks, to which a pestle five or six inches in diameter, and eight or ten feet long, is fixed, on the elevated end, by a large mortice, and a pin put through its lower end, so that two persons can work it in conjunction. This is much used for pounding corn. A very simple instrument, to answer the same purpose, is a circular piece of tin, perforated, and attached to a piece of wood, '..* CHARACTER, PURSUITS, ETC. 127 like a grater, on which the ears of corn arc rubbed, for meal. The hand-mill is in the same form as that used in Judea, in the time of our Savior. Two circular stones, about eighteen inches in diameter, constructed like ordinary mill-stones, with a staff let into the runner or upper stone near its outer edge, with the upper end inserted in a joist or board over head, and turned by the hands of two persons, while one feeds it with corn. Horse- mills follow the mortar and hand-mill, in the scale of improvement* They are constructed variously. A band-mill is the most simple. A large, upright post is placed on a gudgeon, with shafts extending horizontally, fifteen or twenty feet; around the ends of these is a band of raw hide, twisted, which passes round the trundle head and turns the spindle, and communicates motion to the stone. A cog-mill is formed by constructing a rim, with cogs upon the shafts, and a trundle head to corres- pond. Each person furnishes his own horses to turn the mill, performs his own grinding, and pays toll to the owner, for the use of the mill. Mills, with the wheel on an inclined plane, and carried by oxen standing on the wheel, are much in use in those sections where water-power is not convenient; but these indicate an advance to the second grade of society. Instead of bolting-cloths, the frontier people use a sieve, or, as it is called here, a "search." This is made from a deer-skin, prepared to 128 PECK'S GUIDE. resemble parchment, stretched on a hoop, and perforated full of holes, with a hot wire. Every backwoodsman carries, on all occa- sions, the means of furnishing his meat. The rifle, bullet-pouch, and horn, hunting-knife, horse and dog, are his constant companions, when from home, and wo be to the wolf, bear, deer or turkey that comes within one hundred and fifty yards of his trail. With the first emigration there are few me- chanics; hence every settler becomes expert in supplying his own necessaries. Besides clearing land, building cabins, and making fences, he stocks his own plough, repairs his wagon and his harness, tans his own leather, makes his shoes, tables, bedsteads, stools, or seats, trays, and a hundred other articles. These may be rudely constructed, but they answer his purpose very well. The following extracts, from the graphic " SKETCHES OF THE WEST," by James Hall, Esq., completes this extended picture of back- woods manners: " The traveler, accustomed to different modes of life, is struck with the rude and un- comfortable appearance of every thing about this people; the rudeness of their habitations, the carelessness of their agriculture, the un- sightly coarseness of all their implements and furniture, the unambitious homeliness of all their goods and chattels, except the axe, the rifle, and the horse, these being invariably the best and handsomest which their means CHARACTER, PURSUITS, ETC. 129 enable them to procure. But he is mistaken in supposing them indolent or improvident; and is little aware how much ingenuity and toil have l>een exerted in procuring the few comforts which they possess, in a country without arts, mechanics, money, or commer- cial intercourse. "The backwoodsman has many substantial enjoyments. After the fatigue of his journey, and a short season of privation and danger, he finds himself surrounded with plenty. His cattle, hogs and poultry, supply his table with meat; the forest abounds in game; the fertile soil yields abundant crops; he has, of course, bread, milk and butter; the rivers furnish fish, and the woods honey. For these various ar- ticles, there is, at first, no market, and the farmer acquires the generous habit of spread- ing them profusely on his table, and giving them freely to a hungry traveler or indigent neighbor. " Hospitality and kindness are among the virtues of the first settlers. Exposed to com- mon dangers and toils, they become united by the closest ties of social intercourse. Accus- tomed to arm in each other's defence, to aid in each other's labor, to assist in the affectionate duty of nursing the sick, and the mournful office of burying the dead, the best affections of the heart are kept in constant exercise; and there is, perhaps, no class of men in our country, who obey the calls of benevolence, 6* 130 with such cheerful promptness, or with so liberal a sacrifice of personal convenience. " We read marvellous stories of the ferocity of western men. The name of Kentuckian is constantly associated with the idea of fighting, dirking and gouging. The people of whom we are now writing, do not deserve this char- acter. They live together in great harmony, with little contention, and less litigation. The backwoodsmen are a generous and placable race. They are bold and impetuous; and, when differences do arise among them, they are more apt to give vent to their resentment at once, than to brood over their wrongs, or to seek legal redress. But this conduct is productive of harmony; for men are always more guarded in their deportment to each other, and more cautious of giving offence, when they know that the insult will be quick- ly felt, and instantly resented, than when the consequences of an offensive action are doubt- ful, and the retaliation distant. We have no evidence that the pioneers of Kentucky were quarrelsome or cruel; and an intimate ac- quaintance with the same race, at a later period, has led the writer to the conclusion, that they are a humane people; bold and dar- ing, when opposed to an enemy, but amiable in their intercourse with each other and with strangers, and habitually inclined to peace." In morals, and the essential principles of religion, this class of people are by no means so defective as many imagine. The writer CHARACTER, PURSUITS, ETC. 131 has, repeatedly, been in settlements and dis- tricts beyond the pale of civil and criminal law, where the people are (l a law unto them- selves," where courts, lawyers, sheriffs and constables existed not, and yet has seen as much quiet and order, and more honesty in paying just debts, than where legal restraints operated in all their force. The turpitude of vice and the majesty of virtue, were as ap- parent as in older settlements. Industry, in laboring or hunting, bravery in war, candor, honesty and hospitality were rewarded with the confidence and honor of the people. Regulating parties would exist, and thieves, rogues and counterfeiters were sure to re- ceive a striped jacket, "worked nineteen to the dozen;" and by this mode of operation, induced to "clear out:" but truth, upright- ness, honesty and sincerity are always re- spected. Many of the frontier class are il- literate, but they are, by no means, ignorant. They- are a shrewd, observing, thinking peo- ple. They may not have learned the black marks in books, but they have studied men and things, and have a quick insight into hu- man nature. They are not inattentive to re- ligion, though their opportunities of religious instruction are few compared with old coun- tries. They have prejudices and fears about many of the organized benevolent societies of the present age, yet there are no people more readily disposed to attend religious meetings, and whose hearts are more readily affected 132 with the gospel, than the backwoods people; and as large a proportion are orderly profes- sors of religion as in any part of the Union. Ministers of the gospel and missionaries, who can suit themselves to the circumstances and hahits of frontier people; who, like Paul, can " become all things to all men/' find pleasant and interesting fields of labor on all our fron- tiers. But let such persons show fastidious- ness, affect superior intelligence and virtue, catechise the people for their plainness and simplicity of manners, and draw invidious comparisons, and they are sure to be " used up," or left without hearers, to deplore the " dark clouds '* of ignorance and prejudice in the West. Hunters and Trappers. Entirely beyond the boundaries of civilization, are many hundreds of an unique class, distinguished by the terms hunters and trappers. They are engaged in hunting buffalo, and other wild game, and trapping for beaver. They are found upon the vast prairies of the West and north-west; in all the defiles, and along the streams of the Rocky mountains, and in various parts of the Oregon Territory, to the peninsula of Califor- nia. They are an enterprising and erratic race, from almost every State, and are usually in the employ of persons of capital and enter- prise, and who are concerned in the fur and peltry business. Expeditions for one, two, or three years, are fitted out from St. Louis, or some commercial point, consisting of com- CHARACTER, PURSUITS, ETC. 133 panics, who ascend the rivers to the regions of fur. The hunters and trappers receive a proportion of the profits of the expedition. Some become so enamored with this wander- ing and exposed life, as to lose all desire of returning to the abodes of civilization, and remain for the rest of their lives in the Amer- ican deserts. There are individuals, who are graduates of colleges, and who once stood high in the circles of refinement and taste, that have passed more than twenty years amongst the roaming tribes of the Rocky mountains, or on the western slope, till they have apparently lost all feelings towards civil- ized life. They have afforded an interesting but melancholy example of the tendencies of human nature towards the degraded state of savages. The improvement of the species is a slow and laborious process; the deteriora- tion is rapid, and requires only to be divested of restraint, and left to its own unaided .ten- dencies. Many others have returned to the habits of civilization, and some with fortunes made from the woods and prairies. Boatmen. These are the fresh-water sailors of the West, with much of the light-hearted, reckless character of the sons of the ocean, in- cluding peculiar shades of their own. Before the introduction of steam-boats on the western waters, its immense commerce was carried on by means of keel-boats and barges. The for- mer is much in the shape of a canal-boat, long, slim-built, sharp at each end, and pro- 134 PECK'S GUIDE. pelled by setting-poles, and the cordelle or long rope. The barge is longer, and has a bow and stern. Both are calculated to as- cend streams, but by a very slow process. Each boat would require from ten to thirty hands, according to its size. A number of these boats frequently sailed in company. The boatmen were proverbially lawless, at every town and landing, and indulged with- out restraint in every species of dissipation, debauchery and excess. But this race has become reformed, or nearly extinct ; yes, reformed, by the mighty power of steam. A steam-boat, with half the crew of a barge or keel, will carry ten times the burden, and perform six or eight trips in the time it took a keel-boat to make one voyage. Thousands of flat boats, or " broad horns," as they are called, pass down the rivers, with the produce of the country, which are managed by the farmers of the West, but never return up stream. They are sold for lumber, and the owners, after disposing of the cargo, return by steam. The number of boatmen on the western waters is not only greatly reduced, but those that remain are fast losing their original character. CHAPTER V. PUBLIC LANDS. System of Surveys Meridian and Base Lines Town- ships Diagram of a Township, surveyed into Sections Land Districts and Offices Preemption Rights Military Bounty Lands Taxes Valuable Tracts of Country unsettled. IN all the new States and Territories, the lands which are owned by the general gov- ernment, are surveyed and sold under one general system. Several offices, each under the direction of a surveyor-general, have been established by acts of Congress, and districts, embracing one or more States, assigned them. The office for the surveys of all public lands in Ohio, Indiana, Michigan and the Wiscon- sin country, is located at Cincinnati. The one including the States of Illinois, Missouri and Arkansas, is at St. Louis. Deputy-sur- veyors are employed to do the work at a stip- ulated rate per mile, generally from three to four dollars, who employ chain-bearers, an axe and flag man, and a camp-keeper. They are exposed to great fatigue and hardships, 136 PECK'S GUIDE. spending two or three months at a time in the woods and prairies, with slight, movable camps for shelter. In the surveys, meridian lines are first es- J tablished, running north from the mouth of some noted river : these are intersected with base lines. There are five principal meridians in the land-surveys in the West. The first principal meridian is a line due north from the mouth of the Miami. The second principal meridian is a line due north from the mouth of Little Blue river, in Indiana. The third principal meridian is a line due north from the mouth of the Ohio. The fourth principal meridian is a line due north from the mouth of the Illinois. The fifth principal meridian is a line due north from the mouth of the Arkansas. Another meridian is used for Michigan, whic passes through the central part of the State Its base line extends from about the middle lake St. Clair, across the State, west, to lake Michigan. Each of these meridians has its own base line. The surveys connected with the third and fourth meridians, and a small portion of the second, embrace the State of Illinois. The base line for both the second and third principal meridians commences at Diamond Island, in Ohio, opposite Indiana, and runs due west, till it strikes the Mississsippi, a few miles below St. Louis. PUBLIC LANDS. 137 All the townships in Illinois, south and east of the Illinois river, are numbered from this base line, either north or south. The third principal meridian terminates with the northern boundary of the State. The fourth principal meridian commences in the centre of the channel, and at the mouth of the Illinois river, but immediately crosses to the east shore, and passes up on that side (and at one place nearly fourteen miles dis- tant), to a point in the channel of the river, seventy -two miles from its mouth. Here its base line commences, and extends across the peninsula to the Mississippi, a short distance above Quincy. The fourth principal meridian is continued northward through the military tract, and across Rock river, to a curve in the Mississippi, at the upper rapids, in town- ship eighteen north, and about twelve or fif- teen miles above Rock island. It here crosses and passes up the west side of the Mississippi river, fifty-three miles, and recrosses into Il- linois, and passes through the town of Galena, to the northern boundary of the State. It is thence continued to the Wisconsin river, and made the principal meridian for the surveys of the Territory, while the northern boundary line of the State is constituted its base line for that region. Having formed a principal meridian, with its corresponding base line, for a district of country, the next operation of the surveyor is to divide this into tracts of six miles square, called townships. 7 138 In numbering the townships east or west from a principal meridian, they are called ranges, meaning a range of townships; but in numbering north or south from a base line, they are called townships. Thus a tract of land is said to be situated in township four north, in range three east, from the third principal meridian; or as the case may be. Townships are subdivided into square miles, or tracts of six hundred and forty acres each, called sections. If near timber, trees are marked and numbered with the section, town- ship and range, near -each sectional corner. If in a large prairie, a mound is raised to de- signate the corner, and a billet of charred wood buried, if no rock is near. Sections are divided into halves, by a line north and south, and into quarters, by a transverse line. In sales under certain conditions, quarters are sold in equal subdivisions of forty acres each, at $1 25 per acre. Any person, whether a native-born citizen, or a foreigner, may pur- chase forty acres of the richest soil, and re- ceive, an indisputable title, for fifty dollars. Ranges are townships, counted either east or west from meridians. Townships are counted either north or south from their respective base lines. Fractions are parts of quarter sections in- tersected by streams, or confirmed claims. The parts of townships, sections, quarters, Stc., made at the lines of either townships or meridians, are called excesses or defciences. Sections, or square miles, are numbered, PUBLIC LANDS. 139 beginning in the north-east corner of the township, progressively west, to the range line, and then progressively east, to the range line, alternately, terminating at the south-east corner of the township, from one to thirty-six, as in the following diagram: 6 7 5 8 17 20 4 3 10 15 22 2 11 1 12 13 24 9 16* 21 28 18 19 30 14 23 26 35 29 32 27 25 31 33 34 36 I have been thus particular in this account of the surveys of public lands, to exhibit the simplicity of a system, that, to strangers, un- acquainted with the method of numbering the sections, and the various subdivisions, appears perplexing and confused. All the lands of Congress, owned in Ohio, have been surveyed, and, with the excep- tion of some Indian reservations, have been brought into market. In Indiana, all the lands purchased of the Indians have been surveyed, and, with the exception of about ninety townships and fractional townships, have been offered for sale. These, amount- ing to about two millions of acres, will be * Appropriated for schools in the township. 140 PECK'S GUIDE. offered for sale the present year. In Michi- gan, nearly all the ceded lands have been surveyed and brought into market. The un- surveyed portion is situated in the neighbor- hood of Saginau bay; a part of which may be ready for market within the current year. In Wisconsin Territory, west of lake Mich- igan, all the lands in the Wisconsin district, which lie between the State of Illinois and the Wisconsin river, have been surveyed ; and, in addition to the lands already offered for sale in the Green Bay district, about sjxty- five townships and fractional townships have been surveyed, and are ready for market. The surveys of the whole country west of lake Michigan, and south of the Wisconsin river, in Illinois and Wisconsin Territory, will soon be surveyed and in market. Here are many millions of the finest lands on earth, lying along the Des Plaines, Fox and Rock rivers, and their tributaries, well watered, rich soil, a healthy atmosphere, and facilities to market. A temporary scarcity of timber in some parts of this region will retard settle- ments, for a time; but this difficulty will be obviated, by the rapidity with which prairie land turns to a timbered region, wherever, by contiguous settlements, the wild grass be- comes subdued, and by the discovery of coal- beds. Much of it is a mineral region. In Illinois, the surveys are now completed in the Danville district, and in the southern part of the Chicago district. They are nearly com- pleted along Rock river and the Mississippi. PUBLIC LANDS. 141 The unsurveyed portion is along Fox river, Des Plaines, and the shore of lake Michigan, in the north-eastern part of the State. Emi- grants, however, do not wait for surveys and sales. They are settling over this fine por- tion of the State, in anticipation of purchases. In Missouri, besides the former surveys, the exterior lines of one hundred and thirty-eight townships, and the subdivision into sections and quarters, of thirty townships, in the northern part of the State, and contracts for running the exterior lines of one hundred and eighty- nine townships, on the waters of the Osage and Grand rivers, have been made. A large portion of this State is now surveyed, and in market. Surveys are progressing in Arkan- sas, and large bodies of land are proclaimed for sale, in that district. I have no data before me that will enable me to show, definitely, the amount of public lands now remaining unsold, in each land- office district. In another place, I have al- ready given an estimate of the amount of public lands, within the organized States and Territories, remaining unsold, compared with the amount sold in past years. The following tables exhibit the number of acres sold in the districts embraced more im- mediately within the range of this Guide, for 1834, and the three first quarters of 1835, with the name of each district in each State. It is constructed from the report of the com- missioner of the General Land OfRce to the Treasury Department, December 5th, 1835. 142 PECK S GUIDE. The sales of the last quarter of 1835, in Illi- nois, and probably in the other States, great- ly exceeded either of the other quarters, and which will be exhibited in the annual report of the commissioner, in December, 1836. Statement of the amount of Public Lands sold at the several Land-Offices in Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, Missouri and Arkansas, in 1834. District Land Acres and Offices. hundredth.**. OHIO. Marietta, 1 1, 999.52 Q u i nC y' \ 3e'l3L59 Zanesville, . Steubenvillc, Chilicothe, . Cincinnati, . Wooster, . . 33,877.23 4,349.19 21,309.32 27,369.52 9,448.77 Wapaghkonetta, 125,417.13 Bucyrus, ..... 245,078.56 District Land Offices. Danville, Acres and hundredth*. 62,331.38 Total for State, 354,013.47 MICHIGAN. Detroit, ...... 136,410.69 Monroe, ..... 233,768.30 128,244.47 Pra- Bronson Total for State, 4784^24 INDIANA. Mineral Point, . . . 14,336.67 Jeffersonville, . . 67,826.11 Vincennes, .... 56,765.80 Indianapolis, . . . 204,526.63 Crawfordsville, .161,477.87 Fort Wayne, . . . 96,350.30 La Porte, 86,709.73 Total for State, 673,65*6744 MISSOURI. St. Louis,. .... .43,634.68 Fayette, 71,049.74 Palmyra, 76,241.35 Jackson, 18,882.11 Lexington, 43,983.80 Total for State, 2537791.70 ILLINOIS. ARKANSAS. Shawneetown, . 6,904.24 Batesville,. .. Kaskaskia, .... 15,196.52 Little Rock > Edwardsville, . . 124,302.1 9! Wasnm S ton " Vandalia, 20,207.6 1 1 Fayetteville, . . Palestine, 22,135.69 Springfield, 66,804.25 Helena, . 8 .25 .65 .24 .26 ,051.31 ,799.74 ,145.88 ,514.94 ,244.59 Total for Ter., 149,756.46 PUBLIC LANDS. 143 Statement of the amount of Public Lands sold at the several Land-Offices in Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, Missouri and Arkansas, from Jan. 1st, to Sept. 30th, 1835, including nine months. District Land Acres and (District Land Acres and Offices. hundredths. Offices. hundredth*. OHIO. Galena, t262,l 52.73 Marietta, 11,012.98 Chicago, 333,405.40 Zanesville, .... 42,978.36 Total for State, 1,220,838.76 Steubenville, . . . 3,649.29 Chilicoihe, 12,586.87 Cincinnati, .... 20,105.76 Wooster, 5,157.68 Wapaghkonet- ) M ta and Lima, $ Bucyrus, 154,706.63 INDIANA. Jeffersonville, . . 44,634.81 Vincennes, . . . Indianapolis, . Crawfordsville, Fort Wayne, . . La Porte, .... MICHIGAN. Detroit, 213,763.57 Bronson, 400,722.48 Monroe, .... . 446,631.61 Total, 1,061,127.66 WISCONSIN. Total for State, 353,217.80 Mineral Point, . . .67,052.55 Green Bay, .... 68,365.53 Total for Ter., 135,418.08 MISSOURI. 32,914.57 55,839.58 . 70,903.62 .158,786.68 St. Louis,. . . . .108,055.22 Fayette, .148,864.28|Palmyra, 101,018.00 . 227,702.35 Jackson, 28,995.19 Kaskaskia, ____ 13,814.38 ARKANSAS. , ____ ,. Edwardsville, . . 123,638.07 lBntesv i 1 ' e ' ..... 2,021.22 Vandalia, ..... 16,253.46 I^tle Rock, . . . .22,291.92 Palestine, . . . 14,088.01 Washington, . . . .43,360.81 Springfield, . . .316,966.70 Fayetteville, .... 8,723.72 Danville, ..... 9^491 .35 Helena ...... 312,169.09 Quincy, ...... *40,274.5S Total for State, 388,566.76 * Returns only to May 31. f Returns only to July 31. fjince those periods, the sales at these offices have been immense. 144 The reader will perceive that the sales of the first three quarters of 1835 almost doubled those of the whole year of 1834. The inquiry was often made of the writer, while traveling in the Atlantic States in the summer of 1835, whether there was still opportunity for emigrants to purchase public lands in In- diana, Illinois, &c., where land-offices had been opened for the sale of lands many years. He found, almost every where, wrong notions prevailing. The people were not aware of the immense extent of the public domain now in market, and ready to be sold at one dollar and twenty-fire cents per acre, and even in as small tracts as forty acres. Take, for exam- ple, the Edwardsville district, in which the writer resides. It extends south to the base line, east to the third principal meridian, north to the line that separates townships 13 and 14 north, and west to the Illinois and Mississippi rivers, and embraces all the counties of Madison, Clinton, Bond, Mont- gomery, Macoupen, and Greene, a tier of townships on the south side of Morgan and Sangamon, five and a half townships from Fayette, and about half of St. Clair county. The lands for a part of this district have been in market for eighteen or twenty years. It contains some of the oldest American settle- ments in the State, and has also a number of confirmed claims never offered for sale. And yet the receiver of this office informed me, in November last, that he had just made returns PUBLIC LANDS. 145 of all the lands sold in this district, and they amounted to just one third of the whole quan- tity. Every man, therefore, may take it for granted that there will he land enough in market in all the new States, for his use, during the present generation. These are facts that should be known to all classes. The mania of land speculation and of monop- olists would soon subside, were those concern- ed to sit down coolly, and, after ascertaining the amount of public lands now in market, with the vast additional quantity that must soon come into market, use a few figures in com- mon arithmetic, with the probable amount of emigration, and ascertain the probable extent of the demand for this article at any future period. The following information is necessary for those who are not acquainted with our land system. In each land-office there are a register and receiver, appointed by the president and sen- ate for the term of four years, and paid by the government. After being surveyed, the land, by procla- mation of the president, is offered for sale at public auction by half quarter sections, or tracts of eighty acres. If no one bids for it at one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre, or more, it is subject to private entry at any time after, upon payment of $1 25 cents per acre at the time of entry. JVb credit, in any case, is allowed. 146 PECK'S GUIDE. In many cases, Congress, by special stat- ute, has granted to actual settlers, preemp- tion rights, where settlements and improve- ments have been made on public lands pre- vious to public sale. Preemption rights confer the privilege only of purchasing the tract containing improve- ments at one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre, by the possessor, without the risk of a public sale. In Illinois) and several other Western States, all lands purchased of the general government, are exempted from taxation for five years after purchase. Military Bounty Lands. These lands were surveyed and appropriated as bounties to the soldiers in the war with Great Britain in 1812 '15, to encourage enlistments. The selections were made in Illinois, Missouri, arid Arkansas. The bounty lands of Illinois lie between the Illinois and Mississippi rivers, in the counties of Calhoun, Pike, Adams, Schuyler, Macdonough, Warren, Mercer, Knox, Henry, Fulton, Peoria, and Putman. Out of 5,000,000 of acres, 3,500,000 were selected, including about three fifths of this tract. The remainder is disposed of in the manner of other public lands. The disposi- tion of this fine country for military bounties has much retarded its settlement. It was a short-sighted and mistaken policy of govern- ment that dictated this measure. Most of the titles have long since departed from the PUBLIC LANDS. 147 soldiers for whose benefit the donations were made. Many thousand quarter sections have been sold for taxes by the State, have fallen into the hands of monopolists, and are now past redemption. The bounty lands in Mis- souri lie on the waters of Chariton and Grand rivers, north side of the Missouri river, and in the counties of Chariton, Randolph, Carrol], and Ray, and include half a million of acres. The tract is generally fertile, undulating, a mixture of timber and prairie, but not as well watered as desirable. With the bounty lands of Arkansas I am not well acquainted. Their general character is good, and some tracts are rich cotton lands. Taxes. Lands bought of the United States government are exempted from taxation for five years after sale. All other lands owned by non-residents, equally with those of residents, are subject to taxation annually, either for state, or county purposes, or both. The mode and amount varies in each State. If not paid when due, costs are added, the lands sold, subject to redemption within a limited period, generally two years. Every non- resident landholder should employ an agent within the State where his land lies, to look after it, and pay his taxes, if he would not suffer the loss of his land. CHAPTER VI. ABORIGINES. Conjecture respecting their former Numbers and Condition Present Number and State Indian Territory appro- priated as their permanent Residence Plan and Opera- tions of the United States Government Missionary Ef- forts and Stations Monuments and Antiquities. THE idea is entertained, that the Valley of the Mississippi was once densely populated by aborigines, that here were extensive nations, that the bones of many millions lie moulder- ing under our feet. It has become a common theory, that, previous to the settlement of the country by people of European descent, there were two successive races of men, quite dis- tinct from each other; that the first race, by some singular fatality, became exterminated, leaving no traditionary account of their exist- ence; and the second race, the ancestors of the existing race of Indians, are supposed to have been once far more numerous than the present white population of the Valley. Some parts of Mexico and South America ABORIGINES. 149 were found to be populous upon the first visits of the Spaniards, but I do not find satisfactory evidence that the population was ever dense in any part of the territory that now constitutes our Republic. Mr. Atwater supposes, from the mounds in Ohio, the Indian population far exceeded seven hundred thousand, at one time, in that district. Mr. Flint says, "If we can infer nothing else from the mounds, we can clearly infer, that this country once had its millions." Hence, a principal argument as- signed for the populousness of this country is, the millions buried in these tumuli, the bones of which, in a tolerable state of preservation, are supposed to be exhibited upon excavation. The writer has witnessed the opening of many of these mounds, and has seen the fragments of an occasional skeleton, found near the sur- face. Without stopping here to enter upon a disquisition on the hypothesis assumed, that these mounds, as they are termed, are as much the results of natural causes, as any other prominences on the surface of the globe, I will only remark, that it is a fact well known to frontier men, that the Indians have been in the habit of burying their dead in these ridges and hillocks, and that, in our light, spongy soil, the skeleton decays surprisingly fast. This is not the place to exhibit the necessary data, that have led to the conviction, that not a human skeleton now exists in all the Western Valley (excepting in nitrous caves), that was deposi- ted in the earth before the discovery of the new world by Columbus. 150 The opinion, that this Valley was once densely populous, is sustained, from the sup- posed military works, distributed through the West. This subject, as well as that of mounds, wants reexamination. Probably, half a dozen enclosures, in a rude form, might have been used for military defence. The capabilities of the country to sustain a dense population, has been used to support the position, that it must have been once densely populated. This ar- gues nothing without vestiges of agriculture and the arts. With the exception of a few small patches round the Indian villages, for corn and pulse, the whole land was an unbroken wilder- ness. Strangers to the subject have imagined that our western prairies must once have been subdued by the hand of cultivation, because denuded of timber. Those who have long lived on them, have the evidences of observa- tion and their senses to guide them. They know, that the earth will not produce timber while the surface is covered with a firm grassy sward, and that timber will spring up, as soon as this obstruction is removed. To all these theories, of the former density of the aboriginal population of the Valley, I oppose, first, the fact that but a scattered and erratic population was found here, on the ar- rival of the Europeans; that the people were rude savages, subsisting chiefly by hunting, and that no savage people ever became popu- lous; that, from time immemorial, the differ- ent tribes had been continually at war with ABORIGINES. 151 each other; that, but a few years before the French explored it, the Iroquois, or Five Na- tions, conquered all the country to the Mis- sissippi, which they could not have done had it been populous ; and that Kentucky, one of the finest portions of the Valley, was not inhabited by any people, but was the common hunting and fighting grounds of both the northern and southern Indians, and hence called by them Kentuckee, or the "bloody ground."* That the Indian character has deteriorated, and the numbers of each tribe greatly lessened by contact with Europeans and their descend- ants, is not questioned; but many of the de- scriptions of the comforts and happiness of savage life and manners, before their country was possessed by the latter, are the exagger- ated and glowing descriptions of poetic fancy. Evidence enough can be had to show that they were degraded and wretched, engaged in pet- ty exterminating wars with each other, often- times in a state of starvation, and leading a roving, indolent, and miserable existence. Their government was anarchy. Properly speaking, civil government had never existed amongst them. They had no executive, or * See Pownal's Administration of the British Colonies; Colden's History of the Five Nations; New York Histori- cal Collections, vol.11; Charlevoix Histoire de la Nouvelle France; Hon. De Witt Clinton's Discourse before the New York Historical Society, 1811; Discovery of the Mississip- pi river, by Father Lewis Hennepin; M. Tonti's Account of M. De La Salle's Expedition; La Harpe's Journal, &c. 152 PECK'S GUIDE. judiciary power, and their legislation was the result of their councils, held by aged and ex- perienced men. It had no stronger claim upon the obedience of the people than advice. In Mexico, civilization had made progress, and there were populous towns and cities, and edifices for religious and other purposes. With the exception of some very rude struc- tures, the ruins of which yet remain, and which, upon too slight grounds, have been mistaken for military works, nothing is left as marks of the enterprise of the feeble bands of Indians of this Valley. Their implements, utensils, weapons of war, and water-craft, were of the most rude and simple construction, and yet prepared with great labor. Those who have written upon Indian manners, with- out personal and long acquaintance with their circumstances, have made extravagant blun- ders. The historian of America, Dr. Robert- son, seems to suppose that the Indians cut down large trees and dug out canoes, with stone hatchets; and that they cleared the timber from their small fields, by the same tedious process. Their stone axes or hatch- ets were never used for cutting, but only for splitting and pounding. They burned down and hollowed out trees, by fire, for canoes; and never chopped off the timber, but only deadened it, in clearing land. The condition of depraved man, unimproved by habits of civilization, and unblest with the influences and consolations of the gospel, is pitiable in ABORIGINES. 153 the extreme. Such was the character and condition of the " red skin," before his land was visited by the "palefaces." I have often seen the aboriginal man in all his primeval wildness, when he first came in contact with the evils and benefits of civilization, have admired his noble form and lofty bearing, listened to his untutored and yet powerful eloquence, and yet have found in him the same humbling and melancholy proofs of his wretchedness and want, as is found in the remnants on our borders. The introduction of ardent spirits, and of several diseases, are the evils furnished the Indian race, by contact with the whites, while in other respects their condition has been im- proved. From the second number of the Annual Register of Indian Affairs, within the Indian (or Western) Territory, just published by the Rev. Isaac McCoy, the following particulars have been chiefly gleaned. Mr. McCoy has been devoted to the work of Indian reform for almost twenty years; first in Indiana, then in Michigan, and latterly in the Indian Territory, west of Missouri and Arkansas. He is not only intimately ac- quainted with the peculiar circumstances of this unfortunate race, and with the country selected as their future residence by the gov- ernment, but is ardently and laboriously en- gaged for their welfare. 154 PECK'S GUIDE. INDIAN TERRITORY. The Indian Territory lies west, and imme- diately adjacent to Missouri and Arkansas. It is about six hundred miles long, from north to south, extending from the Missouri river to the Red river, and running westwardly as far as the country is hahitable, which is estimated to be about two hundred miles. The almost destitution of timber, with extensive deserts- renders most of the country, from this Terri- tory to the Rocky mountains, uninhabitable. The dreams indulged by many, that the wave of white population is to move onward, without any resisting barrier, till it reaches these mountains, and even overleap them, to the Pacific ocean, will never be realized. Provi- dence has thrown a desert of several hundred miles in extent, as an opposing barrier. As very contradictory accounts have gone abroad, prejudicial to the character of the country selected for the Indians, it becomes necessary to describe it with some particu- larity. The following, from Mr. McCoy (if it needed any additional support to its cor- rectness), is corroborated by the statements of many disinterested persons. "There is a striking similarity between all parts of this Territory. In its general char- acter, it is high and undulating, rather level than hilly; though small portions partly de- serve the latter appellation. The soil is gen- ABORIGINES. 155 erally very fertile. It is thought that in no part of the world, so extensive a region of rich soil has been discovered, as in this, of which the Indian Territory is a central posi- tion. It is watered by numerous rivers, creeks and rivulets. Its waters pass through it east- wardly, none of which are favorable to navi- gation. There is less marshy and stagnant water in it than is usual in the western coun- try. The atmosphere is salubrious, and the climate precisely such as is desirable, being about the same as that inhabited by the Indians on the east of the Mississippi. It contains much mineral coal and salt water, some lead, and some iron ore. Timber is scarce, and this is a serious defect, but one which time will remedy, as has been demon- strated by the growth of timber in prairie countries which have been settled, where the grazing of stock, by diminishing the quantity of grass, renders the annual fires less de- structive to the growth of wood. The prairie (i. e., land destitute of wood) is covered with grass, much of which is of suitable length for the scythe." The Chodaws, Creeks, Cherokees, Osages, Kausaus, and Delawares, are entitled to lands westward of this Territory, for hunting- grounds; some to the western boundary of the United States, others to the Rocky moun- tains. Mr. McCoy estimates the number of inhabi- tants of this Territory at 47,733, viz.: 156 Indigenous Tribes. Osage, about 5,510 Kausau, " 1,684 Ottoe and Missourias, 1,600 O'Mahaus, 1,400 Pawnees, (four tribes), 10,000 Puncahs, about 800 Quapaws, " 450 21,444 Emigrant Tribes. Choctaw, about 15,000 Cherokee, 4,000 Creek, " .- 3,600 Seneca, Shawanoe of Neosho, . . 462 Wea, about 225 Piankeshau, 119 Peoria and Kaskaskias, 135 Ottawa, 81 Shawanoe, of Kausau river, 764 Delaware, 856 Kickapoo,. 603 Putawatomie, . 444 Emigrants, 26,289 Indigenous, 21,444 Total, 47,733 The estimate of the Choctaws includes about four hundred negro slaves; that of the Cherokees, five hundred; and that of the Creeks about four hundred and fifty slaves. Choctaws. Their country adjoins Red river and the Province of Texas, on the south, Ar- kansas on the east, and extends north to the Arkansas and Canadian rivers; being one him- ABORIGINES. 157 dred and fifty miles from north to south, and two hundred miles from east to west. Here are numerous salt springs. For civil purposes, their country is divided into three districts. Cherokees. The boundaries of their country commences on the Arkansas river, opposite the western boundary of Arkansas; thence northwardly along the line of Missouri, eight miles to Seneca river; thence west to the Ne- osho river; thence up said river to the Osage lands; thence west indefinitely, as far as hab- itable; thence south to the Creek lands, and along the eastern line of the Creeks to a point forty-three miles west of Arkansas, and twen- ty-five miles north of Arkansas river; thence to the Verdigris river, and down Arkansas river, to the mouth of the Neosho; thence southwardly to the junction of the North Fork and Canadian rivers; and thence down the Canadian and Arkansas rivers to the place of beginning. The treaty of 1828 secures to this tribe 7,000,000 of acres, and adds land westward, for hunting-grounds, as far as the United States boundaries extend. The CretJcs or Muscogees, occupy the coun- try west of Arkansas, that lies between the lands of the Choctaws and Cherokees. The Senecas join the State of Missouri on the east, with the Cherokees south, the Neo- sho river west, and possess 127,500 acres. The Osage (a French corruption of Wos- sosh-e their proper name) have their country north of the western portion of the Cherokee 158 lands, commencing twenty-five miles west of the State of Missouri, with a width of fifty miles, and extending indefinitely west. About half the tribe are in the Cherokee country. The Quapaws were originally connected with the Osages. They have migrated from the Lower Arkansas, and have their lands adjoining the State of Missouri, immediately north of the Senecas. --i,- The Putawatomies are on the north-eastern side of the Missouri river, but they are not satisfied, and the question of their locality is not fully settled. Fourhundred and forty-four Putawatomies are mingled with the Kickapoos, on the south-west side of the Missouri river. The Weas, Piankeshaus, Peorias and Kas- kaskias are remnants of the great western confederacy, of which the Miamies were the most prominent branch. These and other tribes, constituted the Illini, Oillinois, or Illi- nois nation, that once possessed the country now included in the great States of Indiana, Illinois, &,c. Their lands lie west of the State of Missouri, and south-west of the Missouri river. The Delawares occupy a portion of the country in the forks of the Kausau (or, as writ- ten by the French, Kausas) river. They are the remnants of another great confederacy, the Lenni-Lenopi, as denominated by themselves. The lands of the Kickapoos lie north of the Delawares, and along the Missouri, including 768,000 acres. ABORIGINES. 159 The Ottoes occupy a tract of country be- tween the Missouri and Platte rivers, but their land is said to extend south and below the Platte. The country of the O'Mahaus has the Platte river on the south, and the Missouri north-east. The country of the Pawnees lies to the west- ward of the Ottoes and O'Mahaus. The boun- daries are not defined. The Puncahs are a small tribe that origina- ted from the Pawnees, and live in the northern extremity of the country spoken of as the In- dian Territory. Present Condition. The Choctaws, Chero- kees and Creeks are more advanced in civil- ized habits than any other tribes. They have organized local governments of their own, have enacted some wholesome laws, live in comfortable houses, raise horses, cattle, sheep and swine, cultivate the ground, have good fences, dress like Americans, and manufac- ture much of their own clothing. They have schools and religious privileges, by missionary efforts, to a limited extent. The Cherokees have a written language, perfect in its form, the invention of Mr. Guess, a full-blooded In- dian. The Senecas, Delawares, and Shawa- noes, also, are partially civilized, and live with considerable comfort from the produce of their fields and stock. The Putawatomies, Weas, Piankeshaus, Peorias, Kaskaskias, Ottawas, and Kickapoos, have partially adopted civil- ized customs. Some live in comfortable log 160 PECK'S GUIDE. cabins, fence and cultivate the ground, and have a supply of stock: others live in bark huts, and are wretched. The Osages, or Wos-sosh-es, Quapaws, Kausaus, Ottoes, O'- Mahaus, Pavrnees and Puncahs have made much less improvement in their mode of living. A few have adopted civilized habits, and are rising in the scale of social and individual com- forts, but the larger portion are yet Indians. Mr. McCoy estimates the whole number of aborigines in North America, including those of Mexico, at 1,800,000; of which, 10,000 are so far improved as to be classed with civilized men, and amongst whom there are as many pious Christians, as amongst the same amount of population in the United States. In addi- tion to these, he estimates that there may be about 60,000 more, "which may have made advances toward civilization, some more and some less." For some years past, the policy of the gov- ernment of the United States has been direct- ed to the project of removing all the Indians from the country organized into States and Territories, and placing, them sufficiently con- tiguous to be easily governed, and yet remov- ed from direct contact and future interruption from the white population. This project was recommended in the period of Mr. Monroe's administration; was further considered, and some progress made, under that of Mr. Adams; but has been carried into more successful ex- ecution within the last five years. It is much PUBLIC LANDS. 161 to be regretted that this project was not com- menced earlier. The residence of small bands of Indians, with their own feeble and imperfect government, carried on within any organized State or Territory, is ruinous. Those who argue that because of the removal of the In- dians from within the jurisdiction of the States, or an organized Territory, therefore they will be driven back from the country in which it is now proposed to place them, evince but a very partial and imperfect view of the subject. The present operation of government is an experi- ment; and it is one that ought to receive a fair and full trial. If it does not succeed, I know not of any governmental regulation that can result, with success, to the prosperity of the Indians. The project is to secure to each tribe, by patent, the lands allotted them; to form them into a territorial government, with some features of the representative principle; to have their whole country tuider the super- vision of our government, as their guardian, for their benefit; to allow no white men to pass the lines and intermix with the Indians, except those who are licensed by due authori- ty; to aid them in adopting civilized habits, provide for them schools and other means of improving their condition, and, through the agency of missionary societies, to instruct them in the principles of the gospel of Christ. Missionary Efforts and Stations. These are conducted by the American Board of Com- missioners for Foreign Missions; the Baptist 8 162 Board of Foreign Missions; the Methodist Episcopal Missionary Society; the Western Foreign Missionary Society; and the Cum- berland Presbyterians. Stations have been formed, and schools established, with most of these tribes. About 2500 are members of Christian churches, of different denomina- tions. The particulars of these operations are to be found in the reports of the respect- ive societies, and the various religious pe- riodicals. Of other tribes within the Valley of the Mississippi, and not yet within the Indian Territory, the following estimate is sufficient- ly near the truth for practical purposes: Indians from New York, about Green Bay, . . .725 Wyandots, in Ohio and Michigan, 623 Miamies, 1,200 Winnebagoes, 4,591 Chippeways, or O'Jibbeways, 6,793 Otiawas and Chippeways, of lake Michigan, . . 5,300 Chippeways, Ottawas and Putawatomies, .... 8,000 Putawatomies, 1,400 Menominees, 4,200 They are all east of the Mississippi, and chiefly found on the reservations in Ohio, In- diana and Michigan, and in the country be- tween the Wisconsin river and lake Superior. Those tribes west of the Mississippi river, and along the region of the Upper Missouri river, are as follows: Sioux, 27,500 loways, 1,200 Sauks, of Missouri, . , 500 PUBLIC LANDS. 163 Sauks and Foxes, 6,400 Assinaboines, 8,000 Crees, 3,000 Gros Venires, 3,000 Aurekaras, 3,000 Cheyennes, 2,000 Mandans, 1,500 Black Feet, 30,000 Camanches, 7,000 Minatarees, 1 ,500 Crows, 4,500 Arrepahas and Kiawas, 1,400 Caddoes, 800 Snake, and other tribes, within the Rocky mountains, 20,000 West of the Rocky mountains, 80,000 The Camanches, Arrepahas, Kiawas and Caddoes roam over the great plains, toward the sources of the Arkansas and Red rivers, and through the northern parts of Texas. The Black Feet are toward the heads of the Missouri. Monuments and Antiquities. Before dismiss- ing the subject of the aborigines, I shall touch very briefly on the monuments and antiquities of the West; with strong convictions that there has been much exaggeration on this subject. I have already intimated that the mounds of the West are natural formations, but I have not room for the circumstances and facts that go to sustain this theory. The number of objects considered as antiquities is greatly exaggerated. The imaginations of men have done much. The number of mounds on the American bottom, in Illinois, 164 PECK'S GUIDE. adjacent to Cahokia creek, is stated by Mr. Flint at two hundred. The writer has count- ed all the elevations of surface for the extent of nine miles, and they amount to seventy-two. One of these, Monk hill, is much too large, and three fourths of the rest are quite too small for human labor. The pigmy graves on the Merrimeek, (Missouri,) in Tennessee, and other places, upon closer inspection, have been found to contain decayed skeletons of the ordinary size, but buried with the leg and thigh bones in contact. The giant skeletons sometimes found, are the bones of buffalo. It is much easier for waggish laborers to de- posit old horse-shoes, and other iron articles, where they are at work, for the special pleas- ure of digging them up for credulous antiqua- rians, than to find proofs of the existence of the horses that wore them! There may, or may not be, monuments and antiquities that belong to a race of men of prior existence to the present race of Indians. All that the writer urges is, that this subject may not be considered as settled; that due allow- ance may be made for the extreme credulity of some, and the want of personal observation and examination of other writers on this sub- ject. Gross errors have been committed, and exaggerations of very trivial circumstances have been made. The antiquities belonging to the Indian race are neither numerous or interesting, unless we except the remains of rude edifices and PUBLIC LANDS. 165 enclosures, the walls of which are almost in- variably embankments of earth. They are rude axes and knives of stone, bottles and vessels of potter's ware, arrow and spear heads, rude ornaments, &c. Roman, French, Italian, German and Eng- lish coins and medals, with inscriptions, have been found; most unquestionably brought by Europeans; probably by the Jesuits, and other orders, who were amongst the first explorers of the West, and who had their religious houses here, more than a century past. Copper and silver ornaments have been dis- covered in the mounds that have been opened. The calumet, or large stone pipe, is often found in Indian graves. Three facts deserve to be regarded by those who examine mounds and Indian cemeteries. 1. That the Indians have been accustomed to bury their dead in these mounds. 2. That they were accustom- ed to place various ornaments, utensils, wea- pons, and other articles of value, the property of the deceased, in these graves, especially if a chieftain, or man of note. A third fact, known to our frontier people, is the custom of several Indian tribes wrapping their dead in strips of bark, or encasing them with the halves of a hollow log, and placing them in the forks of trees. This was the case espe- cially when their deaths occurred while on hunting or war parties. At stated seasons, these relics were collected, with much solem- nity, brought to the common sepulchre of the 166 PECK'S GUIDE. tribe, and deposited with their ancestors. This accounts for the confused manner in which the bones are often found in mounds and Indian grave-yards. Human skeletons, or rather mummies, have been discovered in the nitrous caves of Kentucky. The huge bones of the mammoth and other enormous animals, have been exhumed at the Bigbone licks, in Ken- tucky, and in other places, CHAPTER VII. WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA. Face of the Country Soil, Agriculture and internal Im- provements Chief Towns Pittsburgh Coal. THE portion of Pennsylvania lying west of the Alleghany ridge, contains the counties of Washington, Greene, Fayette, "Westmore- land, Alleghany, Beaver, Butler, Armstrong, Mercer, Venango, Crawford, Erie, Warren, McKean, Jefferson, Indiana, Somerset, and a part of Cambria. Face of the Country. Somerset, and parts of Fayette, Westmoreland, Cambria, Indiana, Jefferson and McKean are mountainous, with intervening vallies of rich, arable land. The hilly portions -of Washington, and portions of Fayette, Westmoreland, and Alleghany coun- ties are fertile, with narrow vales of rich land intervening. The hills are of various shapes, and heights, and the ridges are not uniform, but pursue various and different directions. North of Pittsburgh, the country is hilly and J68 PECK'S GUIDE. broken, but not mountainous, and tbe bottom lands on the water courses are wider and more fertile. On French creek, and other branches of the Alleghany river there are extensive tracts of rich bottom, or intervale lands, cov- ered with beech, birch, sugar maple, pine, hemlock, and other trees common to that por- tion of the United States. The pine forests in Pennsylvania and New York, about the heads of the Alleghany river, produce vast quantities of lumber, which are sent annually to all the towns along the Ohio and Mississip- pi rivers. It is computed that not less than thirty million feet of lumber are annually sent down the Ohio from this source. Soil, Jlgricullure, &>c. Portions of the country are excellent for farming. The glade lands, as they are called, in Greene and other counties, produce oats, grass, &c., but are riot so good for wheat and corn. Those counties which lie towards lake Erie are bet- ter adapted to grazing. Great numbers of cattle are raised here. Washington and other counties south of Pittsburgh produce great quantities of wool. The Monongahela has been famous for its whisky, but it is gratifying to learn that it is greatly on the decline, and that its manufacture begins to be regarded as it should be, ruinous to society. A large proportion of the distilleries are re- ported to have been abandoned. Bituminous coal abounds in all the hills around Pittsburgh, and over mo&t parts of Western Pennsyl- WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA. 169 vania. Iron ore is found abundantly in the counties along the Alleghany, and many fur- naces and forges are employed in its manu- factory. Salt springs abound on the Allegha- ny, and especially on the Conemaugh and Kiskiminitas, where salt, in large quantities, is manufactured. The natural advantages of Western Penn- sylvania are great. Almost every knoll, hill and mountain can be turned to some good ac- count, and its rivers, canals, rail and turnpike roads afford facilities for intercommunication, and for transportation of the productions to a foreign market. The advantages of this re- gion for trade, agriculture, raising stock, and manufacturing, are great. The streams fur- nish abundant mill-seats, the air is salubrious, and the morals of the community good. Till recently, Pennsylvania has been neglectful to provide for common schools. A school sys- tem is now in successful operation, and has a strong hold on the confidence and affections of the people in this part of the State. Internal Improvements. Pennsylvania has undertaken an immense system of internal improvements, throughout the State. The Alleghany portage rail-road commences at Hollidaysburgh, on the Juniata river, at the termination of the eastern division of the great Pennsylvania canal, and crosses the Alleghany ridge at Blair's Gap, summit thirty- seven miles, to Johnstown on the Conemaugh. Here it connects with the western division of 170 PECK'S GUIDE. the same canal. It ascends and descends the mountain by five inclined planes on each side, overcoming in ascent and descent 2570 feet, 1398 of which are on the eastern, and 1172 on the western side of the mountain. Five hundred and sixty-three feet are overcome by grading, and 2007 feet by the planes. On this line, also, are four extensive viaducts, and a tunnel eight hundred and seventy feet long, and twenty feet wide, through the sta- ple bend of the Conemaugh river. The west- ern division of the Pennsylvania canal com- mences at Johnstown, on the Conemaugh, pursues the course of that stream, and also that of the Kiskiminitas and Alleghany rivers, and finally terminates at Pittsburgh. In its course from Johnstown, it passes through the towns of Fairfield, Lockport, Blairsville, Saltzburg, Warren, Leechburg, and Freeport, most of which are small villages, but increas- ing in size and business. "The canal is one hundred and four miles in length: lockage four hundred and seventy-one feet, sixty-four locks (exclusive of four on a branch canal to the Alleghany), ten dams, one tunnel, sixteen aqueducts, sixty-four culverts, thirty-nine wasle-wiers, and one hundred and fifty-two bridges. " The canal commissioners, in their reports to the legislature, strongly recommend the extension of this division to the town of Beaver, so as to unite with the Beaver divi- sion. By a recent survey, the distance was WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA. 171 ascertained to be 25.065 miles, and the esti- mated cost of construction, $263,821. This, with a proposed canal from Newcastle to Ak- ron, on the Ohio and Erie canal, will form a continuous inland communication between Philadelphia and New Orleans, of 2435 miles, with the exception of the passage over the Alleghany portage rail-road, of 36.69 miles in length.* It is three hundred and ninety-five miles from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh by this canal. The Beaver division of the Pennsylvania canal commences at the town of Beaver, on the Ohio river, at the junction of the Big Beaver river, twenty-five and a half miles below Pittsburgh, ascends the valley of that river, thence up the Chenango creek to its termination in Mercer county, a distance of 42.68 miles. This work, together with a feeder on French creek, and other works now in progress, are parts of a canal intend- ed eventually to connect the Ohio river with lake Erie, at the town of Erie; which, when fin- ished, will probably be about one hundred and thirty miles in length. It is also proposed to construct a canal from Newcastle, on the Bea- ver division, 24.75 miles above the town of Beaver, along the valley of the Mahoning riv- er, to Akron, near the portage summit of the *See " Mitchell's Compendium of the Internal Improve- ments in the United States," where much valuable infor- mation of the rail-roads and canals of the United States is found in a small space. 172 PECK'S GUIDE. Ohio and Erie canal, eighty-five miles in length, eight miles of which are in Pennsyl- vania, and the residue in Ohio. Estimated cost, $764,372. The Cumberland, or national road, crosses the south-western part of Pennsylvania. It passes through Brownsville where it crosses the Monongahela river, and Washington, into a corner of Virginia to Wheeling, where it crosses the Ohio river, and from thence through Ohio, Indiana and Illinois to the Mississippi river, or perhaps to the western boundary of Missouri. Chief Towns. Broivnsville, situated on the east side of the Monongahela river, is in a ro- mantic country, surrounded with rich farms and fine orchards, and contains about 1200 inhabitants. It is at the head of steamboat navigation. Washington is the county seat of Washington county, surrounded with a fertile but hilly country, contains about 2000 inhab- itants, and has a respectable college. Can- nonsburgh is situated on the west side of Char- tier's creek, eight miles north of Washington. It also has a flourishing college, with build- ings, in an elevated and pleasant situation. Uniontown is the county seat of Fayette, on the National road, and contains about 1500 inhabitants. Greensburg is the seat of justice for Westmoreland county, on the great turnpike road from Philadelphia by Harris- burgh to Pittsburgh, and has about 850 inhabitants. Beaver is situated at the WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA. 173 mouth of Big Beaver, on the Ohio, with a population of 1000 or 1200, and is a place of considerable business. Meadville is the seat of justice for Crawford county, situated near French creek, and has about 1200 inhabitants. Here is a college established by the Rev. Mr. Alden, some years since, to which the late Dr. Bentley, of Salem, Mass., bequeathed a valuable library. It is now under the patronage of the Methodist Episcopal church. Erie is a thriving town, situated on the south side of lake Erie, one hundred and twenty miles north of Pittsburgh. Steam-boats that pass up the lake from Buffalo, usually stop here, from whence stage routes communicate with Pittsburgh, and many other towns in the interior. The portage from this place to the navigable waters of the Alleghany river is fifteen miles, over a turnpike road. The population of Erie is from 1500 to 2000, and increasing. Waterford, the place where the Erie por- tage terminates, is situated on the north bank of the French creek; it is a place of consid- erable business. French creek is a navigable branch of the Alleghany river. Franklin, Kiltanning and Freeport are respectable towns on the Alleghany river, between Pitts- burgh and Meadville. ' Economy is the seat of the German colony, under the late Mr. Rapp, which emigrated from their former residence of Harmony, on the Wabash river, in Indiana. It is a flour- 174 PECK'S GUIDE. ishing town on the right bank of the Ohio, eighteen miles below Pittsburgh. It has sev- eral factories, a large church, a spacious hotel, and eight or nine hundred inhabitants, living in a community form, under some singular regulations. The Economists or Harmonists, as thev were called, in Indiana, are an indus- trious, moral and enterprising community, with some peculiarities in their religious notions. There are many other towns and villages in \Vestern Pennsylvania, of moral, industrious inhabitants, which the limits of this work will not permit me to notice. PITTSBURGH is the emporium of ^Western Pennsylvania, and from its manufacturing en- terprise, especially in iron wares, has been denominated the " Birmingham of the West." It stands on the land formed at the junction of the Monongahela and Alleghany rivers, on a level alluvion deposit, but entirely above the highest waters, surrounded with hills. This place was selected as the site of a fort and trading depot by the French, about eighty years since, and a small stockade erected, and called Fort du Quesne, to defend the occupancy of it by the English, and to mo- nopolize the Indian trade. It came into the possession of the British, upon the conquest of this country, after the disastrous defeat of Gen. Braddock; and under the administration of the elder Pitt, a fort was built here under the superintendence of Lord Stanwix, that cost more than $260,000, and called Fort WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA. 175 Pitt. In 1760, a considerable town arose around the fort, surrounded with beautiful gardens and orchards, but it decayed on the breaking out of the Indian war, in 1763. The origin of the present town maybe dated 1765. Its plan was enlarged, and re-surveyed in 1784, and then belonged to the Penn family, as a part of their hereditary manor. By them it was sold. The Indian wars in the West, retarded its growth for several years after, but since, it has steadily increased, according to the fol- lowing table: 1800, 1,565 1810, 4,768 1820, 7,248 1830, 12,542 1835, estimated, 30,000 The estimate of 1835 includes the suburbs. The town is compactly built, and some streets are handsome; but the use of coal for culinary and manufacturing purposes, gives the town a most dingy and gloomy aspect. Its salubrity and admirable situation for commerce and manufactures ensure its future prosperity and increase of population. The exhaustless beds of coal in the bluffs of the Monongahela, and of iron ore, which is found in great abundance in all the mountainous regions of Western Pennsylvania, give it preeminence over other western cities, for manufacturing purposes. It really stands at the head of steam-boat navi- gation, on the waters of the Ohio; for the Al- 176 PEAK'S GUIDE. leghany and Monongahela rivers are navigable only at high stages of water, and, by the recent improvements in the channel of the Ohio and the use of light draft boats, the navigation to Pittsburgh is uninterrupted, except in winter. The suburbs of Pittsburgh, are Birming- ham, on the south bank of the Monongahela, Alleghany town, on the opposite side of the Alleghany river, and containing a population of about 7000, Lawrenceville, Northern and Eastern Liberties. Manufactures. Nail Factories and Rolling Mills. Weight. Value. Union, 720,000 $43,200 Sligo, 400,000 32,000 Pittsburgh, 782,887 86,544 Grant's hill, 500,000 20,000 Juniata, 500,000 30,000 Pine Creek, 457,000 34,100 Miscellaneous factories, 360,000 28,200 The foregoing table waa constructed in 1831. Doubtless this branch of business has greatly increased. The same year there were twelve foundries in and near Pittsburgh, which converted 2963 tons of metal into castings, employed 132 hands, consumed 87,000 bushels of charcoal, and produced the value of $189,614. The following sketch of manufactures in Pittsburgh and vicinity, is copied from Tan- ner's Guide, published in 1832: Steam engines, thirty-seven, which employ- ed 123 hands. Value, $180,400. WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA. 177 Cotton factories, eight, with 369 power- looms, 598 hands; value, $300,134. In fhe counties of Westmoreland and Alleghany, there are five cotton factories. In Pittsburgh and the two counties just named, are eight paper mills, valued at $165,000. In Pittsburgh and vicinity are five steam mills, which employ 50 hands. Value of their products annually, $80,000. There are five brass-foundries and eight coppersmiths' shops. Value of the manufac- tures, $25,000. Within the limits of the city, there are thirty blacksmiths' shops, which employ 136 hands. There are also four gunsmiths, and nine sil- versmiths and watch repairers. In Pittsburgh, and the counties of West- moreland and Alleghany, there are twenty-six saddleries and forty-one tanneries, sixty-four brick-yards and eleven potteries. There are in the city, four breweries, and four white lead manufactories, at which 7400 kegs arc made annually; value, $27,900. There are six printing offices in Pittsburgh, and six more in the two counties. The estimated value of the manufactures of every kind in Pittsburgh, and the counties of Alleghany and Westmoreland, in 1831, was $3,978,469. Doubtless they have greatly in- creased since. Coal. The bituminous coal formations around Pittsburgh, are well deserving the at- 8* 178 tention of geologists. Coal hill, on the west side of the Monongahela, and immediately op- posite Pittsburgh, is the great source of this species of fuel; and the miners, in some places, have perforated the hill to the distance of sev- eral hundred feet. It is found in strata from six inches to ten or twelve feet in thickness, and often at the height of three hundred feet above the bed of the river, in the hills around Pittsburgh, and along the course of the Alle- ghany and Monongahela. Below this one stra- tum, which is of equal elevation, none is found till you reach the base of the hill, below the bed of the river. Besides supplying Pittsburgh, large quantities are sent down the river. There are in Pittsburgh (or were two years since), three Baptist churches, or congrega- tions, one of which is of Welch; four Presby- terian, four Methodist, one Episcopal, one Roman Catholic (besides a cathedral on Grant's hill), one Covenanter, one Seceder, one German Reformed, one Unitarian, one Associate Reformed, one Lutheran, one Af- rican, and perhaps some others in the city or suburbs. Of the public buildings deserving notice, I will name the Western University of Pennsylva- nia, which stands on the Monongahela, near Grant's hill; the Penitentiary, in Alleghany town, which has cost the State an immense amount, and is conducted on the principle of solitary confinement; the Presbyterian Theo- logical Seminary is also in Alleghany town; WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA. 179 the Museum; the United States Jlrsenal, about two miles above the city, at Lawrenceville. It encloses four acres, and has a large depot for ordnance, arms, &x. The City Water- works is a splendid monument of municipal enterprise. The water is taken from the Al- leghany river, by a pipe, fifteen inches in diameter, and carried 2439 feet, and one hun- dred and sixteen feet elevation, to a reservoir on Grant's hill, capable of receiving 1,000,000 gallons. The water is raised by a steam en- gine of eighty-four horse power, and will raise 1,500,000 gallons in twenty-four hours. The aqueduct of the Pennsylvania canal, across the Alleghany river, is also deserving attention. The inhabitants of Pittsburgh are a mixture of English, French, Scotch, Irish, German and Swiss artizans and mechanics, as well as of native born Americans, who live together in much harmony. Industry, sobriety, morality and good order generally prevail. Extensive revivals of religion prevailed here a year or two since. The population of Western Pennsylvania is characterized for industry, frugality, economy and enterprise. Temperance principles have made considerable progress of late years. CHAPTER VIII. WESTERN VIRGINIA. Sulphur, Hot and Sweet Springs Chief Towns. WESTERN VIRGINIA embraces all that part of Virginia that lies upon the western waters. The counties are Brooke, Ohio, Monongalia, Harrison, Randolph, Russell, Preston, Tyler, Wood, Greenbrier, Kenawha,* Mason, Lewis, Nicholas, Logan, Cabell, Monroe, Pocahon- tas, Giles, Montgomery, Wythe, Grayson, Tazewell, Washington, Scott, and Lee, 26. Its principal river is the Kenawha and its tributaries. Of these, Gaula, New river and Greenbrier are the principal. New river is the largest, and rises in North Carolina. The Monongahela drains a large district; the little Kenawha, Guyandotte and Sandy are smaller streams. The latter separates Virginia from Kentucky, for some distance. Much of Western Virginia is mountainous, * I have adopted the orthography of the legislature. WESTERN VIRGINIA. 181 lying in parallel ridges, which are often brok- en by streams. Some of the vallies are very fertile. The Kenawha valley is narrow, but extends to a great distance. The salt-manu- factories extend from Charlestown, up the Kenawha, the distance of twelve miles. They are twenty in number, and manufacture nearly two millions of bushels annually. The river is navigable for steam-boats to this point, at an ordinary depth of water. Coal is used in the manufactories, which is dug from the ad- jacent mountains, and brought to the works on wooden rail-ways. Seven miles above Charlestown is the famous burning spring. Inflammable gas escapes, which, if ignited, will burn with great brilliancy for many hours, and even for several days, in a favorable state of the atmosphere. The State of Virginia has constructed a tolerably good turnpike road from the mouth of the Guyandotte, on the Ohio, to Staunton. It passes through Charles- town, and along the Kenawha river to the falls; from thence it extends along the course of New river, and across Sewall's mountain, by Louisburg, to Staunton. The falls of Kenawha are in a romantic region, and merit the attention of the traveler. Marshall's pillar is a singular projecting rock, that overhangs New river, 1015 feet above its bed. The stage road passes near its summit. This route is one of the great stage routes leading from the Ohio valley to Washington city, and to all parts of old Virginia. 182 PECK'S GUIDE. The White Sulphur, Red Sulphur, Hot, Warm, and Siveet Springs are in the moun- tainous parts of Virginia, and on this route. These are all celebrated as watering-places, but the White Sulphur spring is the great re- sort of the fashionable of the Southern States. Let the reader imagine an extensive camp- ground, a mile in circumference, the camps neat cottages, built of brick, or framed, and neatly painted. In the centre of this area are the springs, bath-houses, dining-hall, and mansion of the proprietor. The cottages are intended for the accommodation of families, and contain two rooms each. This is by far the most extensive watering-place in the Union. Of the effect of such establishments on morals I shall say nothing. The reader will draw his own conclusions, whe-n he understands that the card-table, roulette, wheel of fortune and dice-box are amongst its principal amuse- ments. Here, not unfrequently, cotton bales, negroes, and even plantations, change owners in a night. The scenery around is highly picturesque and romantic. Declivities and mountains, sprinkled over with evergreens, are scattered in wild confusion. A few miles from White Sulphur springs, you pass the di- viding line, the Alleghany ridge, and pass from Western into Middle Virginia. Chief Towns. Wheeling is the principal commercial town, and a great thoroughfare, in Western Virginia. It has a large number of stores and commission ware-houses; and WESTERN VIRGINIA. 183 contains six or eight thousand inhabitants. It is ninety-two miles by water, and fifty-five miles by land, from Pittsburgh. It has manu- factures of cotton, glass and earthen ware: boats are built here. The Cumberland or national road crosses the Ohio at this place, over which a bridge is about to be erected. The town is surrounded with bold, precipitous hills, which contain inexhaustible quantities of coal. At extreme low water steam-boats ascend no higher than Wheeling. Charlestown, Wellsburgh, Parkersburgh, Point Pleasant, Clarksburgh, Abington, Lou- isburg, and many others, are pleasant and thriving towns. The climate of Western Virginia is pre- eminently salubrious. The people, in their manners, have considerable resemblance to those of Western Pennsylvania. There are fewer slaves, less wealth, more industry and equality, than in the "old dominion," as Eastern Virginia is sometimes called. CHAPTER IX. MICHIGAN. Extent Situation Boundaries Face of the Country Rivers, Lakes, &c. Soil and Productions Subdivisions, Counties Chief Towns Education Improvements projected Boundary Dispute Outline of the Consti- tution. MICHIGAN is a large triangular peninsula, surrounded on the east, north and west, by lakes, and on the south by the States of Ohio and Indiana. Lake Erie, Detroit river, lake St. Clair and St. Clair river, lie on the east for 140 miles; lake Huron on the north-east and north, the straits of Mackinaw on the ex- treme north-west, and lake Michigan on its western side. Its area is about 40,000 square miles. Face of the Country, Its general surface is level, having no mountains, and no very ele- vated hills. Still, much of its surface is un- dulating, like the swelling of the ocean. Along the shore of lake Huron, in some places, are high, precipitous bluffs, and along MICHIGAN. 185 the eastern shore of Michigan are hills of pure sand, blown up by the winds from the lake. Much of the country bordering on lakes Erie, Huron, and St. Clair, is level, somewhat deficient in good water, and for the most part heavily timbered. The interior is more undulating, in some places rather hilly, with much fine timber, interspersed with oak "openings," "plains," and "prairies." The plains are usually timbered, destitute of undergrowth, and are beautiful. The soil is rather gravelly. The openings contain scattering timber in groves and patches, and resemble those tracts called barrens farther south. There is generally timber enough for farming purposes, if useci with economy, while it costs but little labor to clear the land. For the first ploughing, a strong team of four or five yoke of oxen is required, as is the case with prairie. The openings produce good wheat. The prairies, will be described more par- ticularly under the head of Illinois. In Michigan, they are divided into wet and dry. The latter possess a rich soil, from one to four feet deep, and produce abundantly all kinds of crops common to 42 degrees of north latitude, especially those on St. Joseph river. The former afford early pasturage for emi- grants, hay to winter their stock, and, with a little labor, would be converted into excellent artificial meadows. Much of the land that now appears wet and marshy, will, in time, be 9 PECK'S GUIDE. drained, and be the first rate soil for farm- ing. A few miles back of Detroit is a flat, wet country, for considerable extent, much of it heavily timbered, the streams muddy and sluggish, some wet prairies, with dry, sandy ridges intervening. The timber consists of all the varieties found in the Western States; such as oaks of various species, wal- nut, hickory, maple, poplar, ash, beech, 8cc., with an intermixture of white and yellow pine. Rivers and Lakes. In general, the country abounds with rivers and small streams. They rise in the interior, and flow in every direc- tion to the lakes which surround it. The northern tributaries of the Maumee rise in Michigan, though the main stream is in Ohio, and it enters the west end of lake Erie on the "debatable land." Proceeding up the lake, Raisin and then Huron occur. Both are nav- igable streams, and their head waters inter- lock with Grand river, or Washtenong, which flows into lake Michigan. River Rouge enters Detroit river, a few miles below the city of Detroit. Raisin rises in the county of Lena- wee, and passes through Monroe. Huron originates amongst the lakes of Livingston, passes through Washtenaw, and a corner of Wayne, and enters lake Erie towards its north-western corner. Above Detroit is river Clinton, which heads in Oakland county, pass- es through Macomb, and enters lake St. MICHIGAN. 187 Clair. Passing by several smaller streams, as Belle, Pine, and Black rivers which fall in- to St. Clair river, and going over an immense tract of swampy, wet country, between lake Huron and Saginaw bay, in Sanilac county, we come to the Saginaw river. This stream, is formed by the junction of the Tittibawassee, Hare, Shiawassee, Flint, and Cass rivers, all of which unite in the centre of Saginaw coun- ty, and form the Saginaw river, which runs north, and enters the bay of the same name. The Tittibawassee rises in the country west of Saginaw bay, runs first a south, and then a south-eastern course, through Midland coun- ty into Saginaw county, to its junction. Pine river is a branch of this stream, that heads in the western part of Gratiot county, and runs north-east into Midland. Hare, the original name of which is Waposebee, commences in Gratiot and the north-west corner of Shia- wassee counties, and runs an east and north- east course. The heads of the Shiawassee, which is the main fork of the Saginaw, are found in the counties of Livingston and Oak- land. Its course is northward. Flint river rises in the south part of Lapeer county, and runs a north-western course some distance past the centre of the county, when it sudden- ly wheels to the south, then to the west, and enters Genesee county, through which it pursues a devious course towards its destina- tion. Cass river rises in Sanilac county, and runs a western course. These rivers are formed of innumerable branches, and water an extensive district of country. Other small- 188 er streams enter lake Huron, above Saginaw bay; but the whole country across, to lake Michigan is yet a wilderness, and recently purchased of the Indians. Doubtless it will soon be surveyed and settled. On the west- ern side of the State are Traverse, Ottawa, Betsey, Manistic, Pent, White, Maskegon, Grand, Kekalamazoo, and St. Joseph, all of which fall into lake Michigan. Those above Grand river are beyond the settled portion of the State. Grand river is the largest in Michigan, being 270 miles in length, its wind- ings included. Its head waters interlock with the Pine, Hare, Shiawassee, Huron, Raisin, St. Joseph and Kekalamazoo. A canal pro- ject is already in agitation to connect it with the Huron, and open a water communication from lake Erie, across -the peninsula, direct to lake Michigan. Grand river is now navi- gable for batteaux, 240 miles, and receives in its course, Portage, Red Cedar, Looking- glass, Maple, Muscota, Flat, Thorn-Apple, and Rouge rivers, besides smaller streams. It enters lake Michigan 245 miles south-west- erly from Mackinaw, and 75 north of St. Jo- seph; is between fifty and sixty rods wide at its mouth, with eight feet water over its bar. Much of the land on Grand river and its trib- utaries, is excellent, consisting of six or seven thousand square miles; and, considering its central position in the State, the general fer- tility of its soil, the good harbor at its mouth, the numerous mill sites on its tributaties, this region may be regarded MICHIGAN. 189 as one of the most interesting portions of Michigan. The Kekalamazoo rises in Jackson and Eaton counties, passes through Calhoun and the northern part of Kalamazoo, enters the south-eastern part of Allegan, and passes diagonally through it to the lake. There is much first-rate land, timber, prairie and openings on its waters, and is rapidly settling. The St. Joseph country is represented by some as the best country in Michigan. This stream has several heads in Branch, Hillsdale, Jackson, Calhoun, and Kalamazoo counties, which unite in St. Joseph county, through which it passes diagonally to the south-west, into Indiana, thence through a corner of Elkhart county, into St. Joseph of that State, makes the "South Bend," and then runs north-westerly into Michigan, through Berrian county, to the lake. The town of St. Joseph is at its mouth. It has Pigeon, Prairie, Hog, Portage Christianna, Dowagiake, and Crook- ed rivers for tributaries, all of which afford good mill sites. In Cass and St. Joseph counties, are Four-mile, Beardsley, Town- send, McKenny, LaGrange, Pokagon, Young, Sturges, Nottawa-Sepee, and White Pigeon prairies, which are rich tracts of country, and fast filling up with inhabitants. Michigan abounds with small lakes and ponds. Some have marshy and unhealthy borders; others are transparent fountains, surrounded with beautiful groves, an undula- ting country, pebbly and sandy shores, and 190 PECK'S GUIDE. teeming with excellent fish. The counties of Oakland, Livingston, Washtenaw, Jackson, Barry and Kalamazoo are indented with them. Productions. These are the same, in gen- eral, as those of Ohio and New York. Corn and wheat grow luxuriantly here; rye, oats, barley, buckwheat, potatoes and all the gar- den vegetables common to the climate, grow well; all the species of grasses are produced luxuriantly; apples, and other fruit, abound in the older settlements, especially among the French about Detroit. It will be a great fruit country. Subdivisions. Michigan had been divided into thirty-three counties in 1835, some of which were attached to adjacent counties for judicial purposes. Other counties may have been formed since. The following organized counties show the population of the State (then Territory), at the close of 1834: Counties. Population. Seats of Justice. Detroit" 1 Berrian, ...... 1,787 Berrian, 180 Branch, 764 Branch, 133 Calhoun, 1,714 Eckford, 100 Cass, 3,280 Cassopolis, 160 Jackson, 1,865 Jacksonburgh, 77 Kalamazoo, .... 3,124 Bronson, 137 Lenawee, 7,911 Tecumseh, 63 Macomb, 6,055 Mount Clemens, . . 25 Monroe, 8,542 Monroe, 36 Oakland, 13,844 Pontiac, 26 St. Clair, 2,244 St. Clair, 60 St. Joseph, .... 3,168 White Pigeon, .... 135 Washtenaw, . . . 14,920 Ann Arbor, 42 Wayne, 16,638 Detroit, Total, "85^856 MICHIGAN. 191 The other counties are Hillsdale, Van Bu- ren, Allegan, Barry, Eaton, Ingham, Living- ston, Lapeer, Genesee, Shiawassee, Clinton, Ionia, Kent, Ottawa, Oceana, Gratiot, Isabel- la, Midland, Saginaw, Sanilac, Gladwin and Arenac, the population of which are included in the counties given in the table. Doubtless, the population of Michigan exceeds one hun- dred thousand. The counties are subdivided into incorpo- rated townships, for local purposes, the lines of which usually correspond with the land surveys. For the sales of public lands, the State is divided into three land districts, and land-of- fices are established at Detroit, Monroe, and Bronson. Chief Towns. Detroit is the commercial and political metropolis. It is beautifully sit- uated on the west side of the river Detroit, eighteen miles above Maiden, in Canada, and eight miles below the outlet of lake St. Clair. A narrow street, on which the wharves arc built, runs parallel with the river. After ascending the bench or bluff, is a street call- ed Jefferson avenue, on which the principal buildings are erected. The older dwellings are of wood, but many have been recently built of brick, with basements of stone, the latter material being brought from Cleveland, Ohio. The primitive forest approaches near the town: the table land extends twelve or fifteen miles interior, when it becomes wet 192 FECK'S GUIDE. and marshy. Along Detroit river the ancient French settlements extend several miles, and the inhabitants exhibit all the peculiar traits of the French on the Mississippi. Their gar- dens and orchards are valuable. The public buildings of Detroit are a state- house, a council-house, an academy, and two or three banking-houses. There are five churches for as many different denominations, in which the Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Baptists, Methodists and Roman Catholics worship. The Catholic congregation is the largest, and they have a large cathedral. Stores and commercial warehouses are nu- merous, and business is rapidly increasing. Town lots, rents, and landed property in the \icinity, are rising rapidly. Lots have ad- vanced, within two or. three years, in the business parts ,of the city, more than one thousand percent. Mechanics of all descrip- tions, and particularly those in the building line, are much wanted here, and in other towns in Michigan. The population is sup- posed to be about 10,000, and is rapidly in- creasing. This place commands the trade of all the upper lake country. Monroe, the seat of justice for Monroe county, is situated on the right bank of the river Raisin, opposite the site of old French- town. Three years since, it had about one hundred and fifty houses, of which twenty or thirty were of stone, and 1600 inhabitants. There were also two flouring and several MICHIGAN. 193 saw-mills, a woollen factory, an iron foundry, a chair factory, &c., and an abundant supply of water power. The "Bank of the River Raisin," with a capital of $100,000, is es- tablished here. The Presbyterians, Epis- copalians, Baptists, Methodists and Roman Catholics have houses of worship and minis- ters here. It was at this place, or rather at French- town in its vicinity, that a horrible massacre of American prisoners took place during the last war with Great Britain, by the Indians under Gen. Proctor. The sick and wounded were burned alive in the hospital, or shot as they ran shrieking through the flames! Of the seven hundred young men barbarously murdered here, many were students at law, young physicians and merchants, the best blood of Kentucky. Mount Clemens, Brownstown, Ann Arbor, Pontiac, White Pigeon, Tecumseh, Jackson- burgh, Niles, St. Joseph, Spring Arbor, and many others, are pleasant villages, and will soon become populous. Education. Congress has made the same donation of lands, as to other Western States, and will, doubtless, appropriate the same per centage on the sales of all public lands, when the State is admitted into the Union, as has been appropriated in the other new States. A respectable female academy is in operation at Detroit. The Presbyterian denomination are about establishing a college at Ann Arbor, the 194 Methodists a seminary at Spring Arbor, the Baptists one in Kalamazoo county, and the Roman Catholics, it is said, have fixed their post at Bertrand, a town on the St. Joseph river, in the south-eastern corner of Berrian county, and near to the boundary line of In- diana. Much sentiment and feeling exists in favor of education and literary institutions, among the people. Projected Improvements. A survey has been made for a rail-road across the peninsula of Detroit, through the counties of Wayne, Washtenaw, Jackson, Calhoun, Kalamazoo, Van Buren and Berrian, to the mouth of St. Joseph river. Another project is, to com- mence at or near Toledo, on the Maumee river, and pass through the southern counties of Michigan, into Indiana, and terminate at Michigan city. A third project is, to open a water communication from the navigable wa- ters of Grand river to Huron river, and, by locks and slack-water navigation, enter lake Erie. A canal from the mouth of Maumee bay to lake Michigan, has also been spoken of as a feasible project; or one from the mouth of the river Raisin to the St. Joseph would open a similar communication. It has also been suggested to improve the river Raisin by locks and slack-water navigation. Doubt- less, not many years will elapse before some of these projects will prove realities. Boundary Dispute. This unpleasant dis- pute between Ohio and Michigan, relates to MICHIGAN. 195 a strip of country about fifteen miles in width at its eastern and seven miles at its western end, lying between the north-eastern part of Indiana and the Maumee bay. A portion of the Wabash and Erie canal, now constructing by Indiana, and which is dependent for its completion on either Ohio or Michigan, passes over this territory. Michigan claims it, by virtue of an ordinance of Congress, passed July 13, 1787, organizing the North- Western Territory, in which the boundaries of three States were laid off; "provided, that the boundaries of these three States shall be sub- ject so far to be altered, that, if Congress shall hereafter find it expedient, they shall have authority to form one or two States in that part of the said Territory ivhich lies north of an east and west line drawn through the south- erly bend or extreme of lake Michigan." Ohio claims it by possession; and because, by being received into the Union with this portion in possession, Congress virtually annulled that part of the former ordinance that fixed the south bend of lake Michigan as the boundary line, and by having run the line north of this. Outlines of the Constitution. A convention assembled at Detroit, May 11, 1835, and framed a constitution for a State government, which was submitted to and ratified by vote of the people, on th first Monday in October. The powers of the government are divided into three distinct departments; the legisla- tive, the executive, and the judicial. 196 PECK'S GUIDE. The legislative power is vested in a Senate and House of Representatives. The represent- atives are to be chosen annually; and their number cannot be less than forty-eight, nor more than one hundred. The senators are to be chosen every two years, one half of them every year, and to consist, as nearly as may be, of one third of the number of the representatives. The census is to be taken in 1837 and 1845, and every ten years after the latter period, and also after each census taken by the Unit- ed States: the number of senators and repre- sentatives is to be apportioned anew among the several counties, according to the number of white inhabitants. The legislature is to meet annually, on the first Monday in January. The executive power is to be vested in a governor, who holds his office for two years. Upon a vacancy, the lieutenant governor per- forms executive duties. The first election was held on the first Monday in October, 1835; and the governor and lieutenant gover- nor hold their offices till the first Monday in January, 1838. The judicial power is vested in one Supreme Court, and in such other courts as the legisla- ture may, from time to time, establish. The judges of the supreme court are to be ap- pointed by the governor, with the advice and consent of the senate, for the term of seven years. Judges of all county courts, associate MICHIGAN. 197 judges of circuit courts and judges of probate are to be elected by the people, for the term of four years. I^ach township is authorized to elect four justices of the peace, who are to hold their offices for four years. In all elections, every white male citizen, above the age of twenty- one years, having resided six months next preceding any election, is entitled to vote at such election. Slavery, lotteries and the sale of lottery -tickets are prohibited. The seat of government is to be at Detroit, or such other place or places as may be pre- scribed by law, until the year 1847, when it is to be permanently fixed by the legislature. CHAPTER X. OHIO. Boundaries Divisions Face of the Country Soil and Prod notions Animals Minerals Financial Statistics- Canal Fund Expenditures Land Taxes School Fund Statistics Canal Revenues Population at different Periods Rivers Internal Improvements Manufac- tures Cities and Towns, Cincinnati, Columbus Edu- cation Form of Government Antiquities History. OHIO is bounded on the north by lake Erie and the State of Michigan, east by Pennsyl- vania and the Ohio river, south by the Ohio river, which separates it from Virginia and Kentucky, and west by Indiana. The rnean- derings of the Ohio river extend along the line of this State four hundred and thirty-six miles. It is about two hundred and twenty-two miles in extent, both from north to south and from east to west. After excluding a section of lake Erie, which projects into its northern borders, Ohio contains about 40,000 square miles, or 25,000,000 acres of land. Divisions. Nature has divided this State OHIO. 199 into four departments, according to its princi- pal waters. 1. The lake country, situated on lake Erie, and embracing all its northern part. Its streams all run into the lake, and reach the Atlantic ocean through the gulf of St. Law- rence. 2. The Muskingum county, on the eastern side, and along the river of that name. 3. The Scioto country, in the middle; and, 4. The Miama country, along the western side. For civil purposes, the State is divided into seventy-five counties, and these are again sub- divided into townships. Their names, date of organization, number of square miles, number of organized townships, seats of justice, and bearing and distance from Columbus, are ex- hibited in the following table: Counties. When or- ganized. Square miles. Number of Townships. Seats of Justice. Bearing and distance frm Columbus. -.. Adams, . . . Allen, .... Ashtabula,. . Athens, .... Belmont, . . Brown, .... Butler, .... Carrol,* . . . 1797 550 1831 542 1811 700 1805 740 1801 536 1818470 1803480 1833 * , \ \ 10 27 19 16 14 13 # West Union, . . . Lima, Jefferson, 101 s. , 110 n.w. 200 n.w. 73 s,e. 116e. 104s. 101 s.w. 125 e.n.e. Athens, St. Clairsville, . . . Georgetown, .... Carrolton, * Carroll county has been formed from Columbians, Harrison, Stark and Tuscarawas, since the edition of the Ohio Gazetteer of 1833 was published, from which the foregoing table has been constructed. Hence the townships are not given. 200 PECK S GUIDE. Counties. jl i^ gf! ll fl| Number of To tv N ships. Scats of Justice. ' j a HI e 2 2, Q> a. c EPSO Champaign. . 1805 417 12 Urbanna, V tri 50 w,n*w* i s > Clark, . . . .18.18412 10 Springfield, .... 44 w. Cleraiont, . .1800515 12 Catavia, 96 s.u: Clinton, Il810'400 8 Wilmington, . . .*. | 60 s.u: Columbiana, 11803J * * New Lisbon, . . . .150 e.n.c. Coshocton, .1811 562 21 Coshocton, .... 68 n.e. Crawford, . .1826 5941 12 Bucyrus, 60 n. Cuyahoga,. . 1810 475i 19 Cleveland,. . '.. . .,140 n.n,e. Dark, ! 1817 660 10 Greenville, . . . . ; 93 w. Delaware, Jl808 610 23 Delaware, 24 n. Fairfield, . . 1800 540 14 Lancaster, .... 28 s.e. Fayette, . . . 1810 415 7 Washington, .... 38 s.w. Franklin, . .1803520 18 COLUMBUS, . . . Gallia, .... 1803 500 15 Gallipolis, 102 s.s.e. Geauga, . . . 1805 600 23 Chardoa, 157 n.e. Greene, '1803400 8, Xenia, < 56 w.s.w. Guernsey, J 1810 621 19 Cambridge, .... 76 e. Hamilton, . . 1790:400 14 Cincinnati, 110 s.u: Hancock, . . 1828 576 5 Findlav 90 n.n.w. Hardin, . . . 1833 570 Kenton. 70 n.n.-w. Harrison,. . . 1813* 13,Cadiz, 124 e.n.e. rTcnrv '744 'Napoleon 161 n.w. Highland, . . 1805 555 11 JHillsborough, . . . 62 s.s.w. Hocking, -. . 1818J432 9 {Logan, 46 s.s.e. Holmes, . . . 18251422 14 AnijjgjgfgSg, : . . . 81 n.e. Huron, .... 1815 SOO 29 NorwaB^T 106 n. Jackson, . . . 1816 490 13 Jackson, 73 s.s.e. Jefferson, . . 1797 400 13 Steubenville, \ . . 147 e.n.e. Knox, .... 1808 618 24 Mount Vernon, . . 47 n.n.e. Lawrence, . . 1817 430 12 Burlington, .... 130 s.s.e. Licking, . . . 1808 666 25 Newark, 33 e.n.e. Logan, .... 1818425 9 Bellefontaine, ... 50 n.w. Lorain, .... 1824580 19 Elyria, 1 30 n.n.f.. Lucas,*. . . . 1835 ! Toledo, 150 n.n.w. * Lucas county has been recently formed from parts taken from Band u sky and Wood counties, and from the disputed country claimed by Michigan OHIO. 201 Counties. When or- ganized. * . u of Number of Townships. Seats of Justice. ' : t|.. Ill a 3 ".0 _ i~O 25 w.s.w. 45 n. 110 n.n.e. 94 s.s.e. Ill n.w. 68 n.ofw. 120 c.s.e. 68 w. 75 s.e.: 52 e. 170 n.w.. 46 e.s.e. 26 s. 64s. 135 n.e. 50 w. 148 n.w. 74 n.n.e. 45s. 105 n. 90 s. 87 n. 70 n.w. 116 n.e. 160 n.e. 100 e.n.e. 30 n.w. 100 n.w. 80 s.w. 106 s.e. 89 n.e. 130 n.w. 135 n.w. Madison, . . Marion, .... Medina, .... Meigs, .... Mercer, . . . Miami, .... Monroe, . . . Montgomery, Morgan, . . . Muskingum, Paulding,* . . Perry, .... Pickaway, . . Pike, Portage, . . . Preble, .... Putnam,* . . Richland, . . Ross, .... Sa^usky, . Scioto, .... Seneca, . . . Shelby, .... Stark, .... Trumbull, . Tu scar a was, Union, .... Vanwert,t . . Warren, . . . Washington, Wayne, . . . Williams, . . Wood,. . . . 1810 1824 1818 1819 1824 1807 1815 1803 1819 1804 480 527 475 400 576 410 563 480 500 665 432 402 470 421 750 432 576 900 650 600 700 540 418 * 875 * 450 432 400 713 660 600 750 10 15 14 12 4 12 18 12 15 23 3 12 14 9 30 12 2 25 16 10 14 11 10 16 34 10 9 9 19 20 10 7 London, Marion, ' Medina, Chester, St. Mary's, .... Troy, Woodsfield, .... Dayton, M'Connelsville, . Zanesville, .... Somerset, Circleville, .... Piketon, Ravenna, Eaton, 1818 1810 1815 1807 1808 1813 1798 1820 1803 1824 1819 1809 1800 1808 1820 1803 1788 1812 1824 1820 Mansfield, Chilicothe, Lower Sandusky, Portsmouth, .... Tiffin, Sidney, Canton, Warren, ...... New Philadelphia, Marysville Lebanon, Marietta, Wooster, Defiance, Perrysburg, .... * Paulding, Futnam and Vanwert counties had not been organized at tin period ot'onr information. f Much of the land in Vanwert is wet. The southern portion con- tains much swampy prauie. 9* 202 PECK'S GUIDE. There are nineteen congressional districts in Ohio, which elect as many members of Congress, and twelve circuits for courts of common pleas. Face of the Country. The interior and northern parts of the State, bordering on lake Erie, are generally level, and, in some places, wet and marshy. The eastern and south- eastern parts, bordering on the Ohio river, are hilly and broken, but not mountainous. In some counties the hills are abrupt and broken; in others they form ridges, and are cultivated to their summits. Immediately on the banks of the Ohio, and other large rivers, are strips of rich alluvion soil. The country along the Scioto and two Mi- ami rivers, furnish more extensive bodies of rich, fertile land, than any other part of the State. The prairie land is found in small tracts near the head waters of the Muskingum and Scioto, and between the sources of the two Miami rivers, and especially in the north- western part of the State. Many of the prai- ries in Ohio are low and wet; some are ele- vated and dry, and exhibit the features of those tracts called " barrens," in Illinois. There are extensive plains, some of which are wet, towards Sandusky. Soil and Productions. The soil, in at least three fourths of the State, is fertile; and some of it very rich. The poorest portion of Ohio is along the Ohio river, from fifteen to twenty- five miles in width, and extending from the na- OHIO. 203 tional road, opposite Wheeling, to the mouth of the Scioto river. Many of the hills in this region are rocky. Among the forest trees are oak of various species, white and black walnut, hickory, maple of different kinds, beech, poplar, ash of several kinds, birch, buckeye, cherry, chestnut, locust, elm, hackberry, sycamore, linden, with numerous others. Amongst the undergrowth are spice-bush, dogwood, iron- wood, pawpaw, hornbeam, black-haw, thorn, wild plum, grape vines, &.c. The plains and wet prairies produce wild grass. The agricultural productions are such as are common to the Eastern and Middle States. Indian corn, as in other Western States, is a staple grain, raised with much ease, and in great abundance: more than one hundred bushels are produced from an acre, on the rich alluvial soils of the bottom lands, though from forty to fifty bushels per acre ought to be considered an average crop. The State, generally, has a fine soil for wheat, and flour is produced for exportation in large quan- tities; rye, oats, buckwheat, barley, potatoes, melons, pumpkins and all manner of garden vegetables, are cultivated to great perfection. No markets in the United States are more profusely arid cheaply supplied with meat and vegetables than those of Cincinnati and other large towns in Ohio. Hemp is produced to some extent, and the choicest kinds of tobacco are raised and cured in some of the counties 204 east of the Muskingum river. Fruits of all kinds are raised in great plenty, especially apples, which grow to a large size, and are finely flavored. The vine and the mulberry have been introduced, and, with enterprise and industry, wine and silk might easily be added to its exports. Animals. Bears, wolves and deer are still found in the forests and unsettled portions of the State. The domestic animals are similar to other States. Swine is one of the staple pro- ductions, and Cincinnati has been denomina- ted the " pork market of the world." Other towns in the W^est, and in Ohio, are begin- ning to receive a share of this trade, especially along the lines of the Miami and the Erie ca- nals. One hundred and fifty thousand hogs have been slaughtered and prepared for mar- ket in one season, in Cincinnati. About sev- enty-five thousand is the present estimated number, from newspaper authority. Immense droves of fat cattle are sent every autumn from the Scioto valley and other parts of the State. They are driven to all the markets of the east and south. Minerals. The mineral deposits of Ohio, a yet discovered, consist principally of iron, salt, and bituminous coal, and are found, chiefly, along the south-eastern portion of the State. Let a line be drawn from the south-eastern part of Ashtabula county, in a south-western direction, by Northampton, in Portage county, Wooster, Mount Vernon. Granville, Circleville, to Hillsborough, and OHIO. 205 thence south, to the Ohio river in Brown county, and it would leave most of the salt, iron and coal on the eastern and south-east- ern side. Financial Statistics, From the auditor's report to the legislature, January, 1836, the following items are extracted. The general revenue is obtained from moderate taxes on landed and personal property, and collected by the county treasurers, from insurance, bank and bridge companies, from lawyers, physicians, &c. Collected in 1835, by the several county treasurers, $150,080 Paid by banks, bridges, and insurance com- panies, 26,060 By lawyers and physicians, 1 ,598 From other sources, . , 24,028 Making an aggregate of $201 ,766 The disbursements are: t r . \ Amount of deficit, for 1834, $16,622 Bills redeemed at the treasury, for the year ending Nov. 1835, 182,005 Interest paid on school fund, 33,101 Amounting to $231,728 Showing a deficit in the revenue, of $29,962 Canal Funds. These appear to be separate accounts from the general receipts and dis- bursements. Miami Canal. The amount of money aris- ing from the sales of esiami canal lands up to 206 Nov. 15, 1835, is $310,178. This sum has been expended in the extension of the canal north of Dayton. Ohio Canal. The amount of taxes collect- ed for canal purposes, for the year 1835, in- cluding tolls, sales of canal lands, school lands, balance remaining in the treasury of last year, &c., is $509,322. Only $38,242 of the general revenue were appropriated to ca- nal purposes; of which, $35,507 went to pay interest on the school funds borrowed by the State. The foreign debt is $4,400,000; the legal interest of which is $260,000 per annum. The domestic debt of the State, arising from invest- ing the different school funds, is $579,287 ; the interest of which amounts to $34,757: making an aggregate annual interest paid by the State on loans, $294,757. The canal toils for the year 1835 amounted to $242,357, and the receipts from the sale of Ohio canal lands, $64,549; making an aggregate income to the canal fund of $306,906 per annum; a surn more than sufficient to pay the interest on all loans for canal purposes. Items of Expenditure. Under this head the principal items of the expenditures of the State government are given. Members, and officers of the General As- sembly, per annum, $43,987 Officers of government, 20,828 Keeper of the Penitentiary, 1,909 For new Penitentiary buildings, 46,050 OHIO. 207 State printing, 12,243 Paper and stationary, for uee of the State,. 4,478 Certificates for wolf scalps, 2,824 Adjutant, and Quarter Master Generals, and Brigade Inspectors, 2,276 Treasurer's mileage, on settlement with the Auditor of State, 1,027 Deaf and Dumb Asylum, 5,700 Periodical works, &c., 400 Postage on documents, 545 Reporter to Court, in Bank, 800 Members and clerks of the Board of Equal- ization, and articles furnished, 1,960 Paymaster General, Ohio militia, 2,000 The extra session of the legislature on the boundary line, in June, 1835, was 6,823. Land Taxes. The amount of lands taxed, and the revenue arising therefrom, at several different periods, are herewith given, to show the progressive advance of the farming and other interests of the State. Years. Acres. Taxes paid. 1809, 9,924,033. . . . $ 63,991 87 1810, 10,479,029 67,501 60 1811, 12,134,777 170,546 74 From 1811 to 18 16, the average increase of the taxes paid by the several counties, was $59,351. From 1816, the State rose rapidly in the scale of prosperity and the value of property. In 1820, the number of acres re- turned as taxable, exceeded a fraction of thir- teen millions, while the aggregate of taxes, was $205,346. The period of depression and embarrass- 208 PECK'S GUIDE. ment that followed throughout the West, pre- vented property from advancing in Ohio. In 1826, '27, '28, '29, '30, a material change in the amount of property taxable, took place, from a few hundred thousands to more than fifty millions. The total value of taxable property of the State, for 1835 (exclusive of three counties, from which returns had not been received), amounts to the sum of ninety- four millions, four hundred and thirty-seven thousand, nine hundred andjifly-one dollars. School Funds. The amount of school funds loaned to the State, up to Nov. 15, 1835, is: Virginia military land fund, $ 109,937 United States military land fund 90,126 Common school fund, 23,179 Athens university, 1,431 School section, No 16, 453,000 Connecticut Western Reserve,. . .... 125,758 Total, $803,432 The following tabular view of the acres of land, total amount of taxable property, and to- tal amount of taxes paid for 1833, is taken from the Ohio Gazetteer. It should be rioted, that in all the Western States, lands purchased of the government of the United States, are ex- empted from taxation for five years after sale. It is supposed that such lands are not included in the table. I have also placed the popula- tion of each county for 1830, from the census of that year; reminding the reader that great changes have since been made. OHIO. 209 Counties. Popula- tion 1830. Acres of land. Total amount of taxable property. Total a mount of taxes paid. Adams, . . . 12,231 234,822 $832,565 $'6,995 41 Allen, 578 14,159 51,214 72528 Ashtabula, . 14,584 449,742 1,347,900 13,524 97 Athens, . . . 9,787 365,348 481,579 5,820 90 Belmont, . . 28,627 301,511 1,591,716 1 11,590 33 Brown, .... 17,867 267,130 1,458,944 8,179 35 Butler, .... 27,142 257,989 2,514,007 20,111 55 Carrol, Champaign, . 12,131 185,942 233,493 529,575 908,571 6,876 92 5,956 66 Clark, 13,114 247,083 1,114,995 7,744 89 Clermont, . . 20,466 280,679 1,542,627 15,645 31 Clinton, .... 11,436 239,4-04 785,770 6,482 14 Columbiana, 35,592 317,796 1,491,099 14,217 2S Coshocton, . 11,161 246,123 850,708 9,307 28 Crawford, . . 4,791 79,582 217,675 3,630 09 Cuyahoga, . . 10,373 292,252 1,401,591 18,122 96 Dark, 6,204 107,730 260,259 3,312 81 Delaware, . 11,504 338,856 831,093 8,516 66 Fairfield, . . 24,786 308,163 1,992,697 13,716 97 Fayette, . . . 8,182 234,432 544,539 6,428 98 Franklin, . . . 14,741 325,155 1,663,315 13,24734 Gallia, .... 9,733 205,727 427,962 4,826 55 Geauga, . . . 15,813 381,380 1,427,869 15,832 65 Greene,. . . . 14,801 251,512 1,441,907 12,082 36 Guernsey, . 18,036 275,652 908,109 9,855 72 Hamilton, . . 52,317 239,122 7,726,091 97,530 42 Hancock, . . 813 9,302 50,929 421 70 Harden, . . . 210 125,607 118,425 1,291 43 Harrison, . . 20,916 22,412 1,025,210 12,400 97 Highland, . . 16,345 317,079 1,065,863 8,755 29 Hocking, . . . 4,008 92,332 215,272 1,919 29 Holmes, . . . 9,135 182,439 556,060 6,364 03 Huron, .... 13,346 504,689 1,512,655 15,490 88 Jackson, . . . 5,941 57,874 197,932 2,239 69 Jefferson, . . 22,489 230,145 1,855,064 13,149 44 Knox, .i jM 17,085 313,823 1,252,294 13,329 41 Lawrence,. . 5,367 56,862 241,782 2,280 80 10 210 PECK S GUIDE. Counties. Popula- tion 1830. Acres of land. Total amount of taxable property. Total amount of taxes paid. Licking, . . . 20,869 393,205 2,101,495 17,370 83 Logan, .... 6,440 203,509 519,622 3,925 65 Lorain, .... 5,696 360,863 889,552 10,539 09 Madison, . . 6,190! 256,421 600,578 4,643 91 Marion, . . . 6,551 168,164 390,602 5,599 78 Medina, . . . 7,560 296,257 931,599 10,198 31 Meigs, .... 6,158 229,004 380,172 5,111 58 Mercer .... 1,110 12,688 54,118 714 30 Miami, .... 12,807 240,093 1,000,748 6,423 09 Monroe, . . . 8,768 95,520! 280,572 3,666 61 Montgomery, 24,362 267,349 2,293,419 14,649 12 Morgan, . . . 11,800 169,135 452,991 4,945 02 Muskingum, 29,334 366,609 2,362,616 18,567 75 Perry, 13,970 175,123 729,241 6,116 55 Pickawav, . . 16,001 800,9691 1,798,665 10,924 76 Pike, .."... 6,024 129,153 521,109 4,114 37 Portage, . . . 18,826 472,156 2,019,029 17,787 06 Preble, 16,291 246,678 1,086,322 7,441 82 Richland, . . 24,008 433,620 1,354,169 15,069 92 Ross, .... 24,068 328,765 2,897,605 17,474 81 Sandnsky, . 2,851 95,822 275,992 3,354 64 Scioto, .... 8,740 105,539 963,882 7,926 93 Seneca, . . . 6,159 108,758 302,089 3,916 51 Stark, 26,588 374,101 1,854,967 16,361 36 Shelby, . . . 3,671 66,863 194,468 1,961 26 Trumbull, . . 26,1231 556,011 1,807,792 16,635 58 Tuscarawas, 14,298 237,337 902,778 8,955 75 Union, .... 3,192 259,101 380,535 5,193 68 Warren, . . . 21,468 243,517 2,143,065! 16,247 33 Washington, 11,731 282,498 681,301 7,463 12 Wayne,. . . . 23,333 382,254 1,451,996 14,584 77 Williams and ~\ others not in- ( 1,089 17,797 90,066 1,351 02 corporated. ) Wood, .... 1,102 17,981 127,862 1,572 22 Total, 937,903 17,133,481 '78,019,526 730,010 75 OHIO. , :i: ., * 211 Statistics for 1836. From the annual report of the auditor of State, it appears there were returned, on the general list for taxation, 17,819,631 acres of land, under the new valu- ation, made under the law of 1833 '34: Lands, including buildings, valued at. . $58,166,821 Town lots, including houses, mills, etc. 15,762,594 Horses (262,291), valued at $40 each, 10,491,640 Cattle (455,487) , valued at $8 each, . . 4,043,896 Merchants' capital and money at interest, 7,262,927 Pleasure carriages (2,603) , valued at . . 199,518 Total amount of taxable property, $94,438,016 On the value of taxable property, the follow- ing taxes were levied: State and Canal tax $142,854 15 County and School tax, 396,505 80 Road tax, 66,482 10 Township tax, 102,991 65 Corporation, Jail and Bridge tax, .... 51,276 89 Physicians' and Lawyers' tax, 3,144 19 School-house tax, 1,482 84 Delinquencies of former years, 13,044 37 Total taxes, - $777,782 07 No returns were made from the counties of Crawford, Hancock, Jefferson and Williams. Canal Revenues. The total amount of re- ceipts for tolls, for the year ending October 31, 1835, was as follows: Ohio Canal. Cleaveland,. .$72,718 72 Newark,. . . . $20,487 85 Akron, 6,362 90JColumbus,. . 4,60537 Massillon; ... 13,585 78;Circleville, . . 9,65144 Dover, 8,096 42(Chillicothe, . 12,13475 Roscoe, 14,555 83 Portsmouth,. 23,11878 Total, $185,317 45 212 Miama Canal. Dayton,. . . . $ 14,016 75 Hamilton, . . . $3,664 88 Middleton,. . 8,747 19 Cincinnati,. . . 25,803 77 Total, $52,232 59 Total tolls received on both canals, . . . $237,550 04 Deduct contingent expenses on Ohio canal, $5,836 05 Do. on Miama canal, 2,954 68 8,790 73 $228,759 31 Toll received on Lancaster Lat. canal,. 1,062 56 Water rents and sale of State lota, . . . 3,700 07 Arrearages paid of tolls received in Oc- tober, 1834, 7,835 26 $242,357 20 Population of Ohio, at different periods. In Population. I From Increase. 1790, about. . . 3,000 1790 to 1800, . . 42,365 1800, " ... 45,365 1800 " 1810, . . 185,395 1810, " ... 230,760J1810 " 1820, . . 350,674 1820, " ... 581,434 1820 " 1830, .. 356,4^9 1830, " ... 937,903 1830 " 1835, . . 437,097 1835,estimated,l,375,000 Rivers. The streams which flow into the Ohio river, are the Mahoning, a branch of the Beaver, Little Beaver, Muskingum, Hock- hocking, Scioto, and Little and Great Miami. Those which flow from the northward into lake Erie, are the Maumee, Portage, Sandus- ky, Huron, Cuyahoga, Grand and Ashtabula. Hence the State is divided into two unequal inclined planes, the longest of which slopes towards the Ohio, and the shortest towards the lake. The head waters of the Muskingum, Scioto and Miami interlock with those of the OHIO. 213 Cuyahoga, Sandusky and Maumee, so as to render the construction of canals not only practicable, but comparatively easy. All the large streams are now navigable for boats during the spring season. Internal Improvements. These consist of canals, rail-roads, turnpike-roads, and the national road, now under the supervision of, and owned by the State. The canaling is managed by a Board of Commissioners. The State canals were projected about 1823; and, considering the youthful character of the State, its want of funds and other circum- stances, they are, undoubtedly, the greatest works ever executed in America. The Ohio and Erie canal connects lake Erie with the Ohio river. It commences at Cleave- land, at the mouth of the Cuyahoga, passes along that river and its tributaries, to the summit level; from thence to the waters of the Muskingum, and to the border of Muskingum county; from thence it strikes across the county, past Newark, in Licking county, and strikes the Scioto, down the valley of which it proceeds to its mouth, at Portsmouth. The principal places on the canal are Akron, New Portage, Massillon, Bolivar, New Philadel- phia, Coshocton, Newark, Bloomfield, Circle- ville, Chillicothe, Piketon and Portsmouth. It was commenced on the 4th of July, 1825, and completed in 1832; and, together with the Miami canal to Dayton, cost about $5,500,000, and has greatly enriched the 214 PECK'S GUIDE. State and the people. Private property along its line has risen from five to ten fold. Length of the Ohio and Erie Canal. Miles. Main trunk, from Cleaveland to Portsmouth, . . . 310 Navigable feeder, from main trunk to Columbus, . 11 " " Granville,.. 6 Muskingum side-cut, from the Muskingum river, at Dresden, 3 Navigable feeder from the Tuscarawas river, ... 3 " " '' 4* Walhonding river, ... 1 Total length of Ohio canal and branches, 334 The Miami canal commences at Cincinnati; and, passing through the towns of Reading, Hamilton, Middletown, Franklin and Miamis- burg, terminates at Dayton, sixty-five miles. It has been navigated from Dayton to the head of Main street, Cincinnati, since the spring of 1829. An extension of the work is now in progress, to be carried along the val- leys of St. Mary's and Au Glaise rivers, and unite with the Wabash and Erie canal, at Defiance; distance from Cincinnati about one hundred and ninety miles. An act passed the Ohio legislature in 1834, for continuing the Wabash and Erie canal (now constructing in Indiana, by that State), from the western boundary of Ohio, to the Maumee bay. Operations have been suspend- ed by the boundary dispute with Michigan. The Mahoning and Beaver canal has al- ready been noticed, under the head of West- ern Pennsylvania. It is proposed to carry it OHIO. 215 from Akron, on the Portage summit, along the valley of the Mahoning river, to Newcastle, on the Beaver division of the Pennsylvania canal. Distance in Ohio, seventy-seven miles. The work is in progress. The Sandy Creek and Little Beaver canal is in progress by a chartered company. It commences near the town of Bolivar, on the Ohio and Erie canal, in Tuscarawas county, and passes along near the line of Stark and Carrol counties, to the Little Beaver in Co- lumbiana county, and from thence to the Ohio river. The Mad River and Sandusky rail-road will extend from Dayton on the Miami canal, to Sandusky, through Springfield, Urbanna, Bellefontaine, Upper Sandusky, Tiffin, and down the valley of the Sandusky river, to lake Erie. The route is remarkably favorable for locomotive power. Length 153 miles; esti- mated cost, $11,000 per mile. The work was commenced in September, 1835. The Erie and Ohio rail-road is intended to be constructed from Ashtabulaon the lake, through Warren to Wellsville, on the Ohio river, a distance of ninety miles. Other rail-roads are in contemplation in this State, the most important of which is the Great Western rail-road, from Boston^ by Worces- ter, Springfield, and Stockbridge, through New York, by Albany, Utica and Buffalo, along the summit ridge, dividing the northern from the southern waters, through Pennsyl- 216 PECK'S GUIDE. vania, Ohio, to intersect the Wabash and Erie canal at Lafayette, in Indiana. From thence provision is already made for it to pass to the eastern boundary of Illinois, from which, a company has been recently charter- ed to construct it across the State of Illinois by Danville, Shelbyville, Hillsborough to Alton on the Mississippi. It must be some untoward circumstance, that shall prevent this splendid work from being completed the whole length, before 1850. The project of a rail-road from Cincinnati, to Charleston in South Carolina, has been entered upon with great spirit in the South, and in all the States more directly concerned in the enterprise. It will, undoubtedly, be carried into effect. The State of Ohio has incorporated a num- ber of turnpike companies, some of which have gone into operation. The first is near the north-eastern corner of the State, from Pierpont, through Monroe and Salem town- ships to the mouth of Conneaut creek, sixteen miles long. The second is the Trumbull and Ashtabula turnpike, leading from Warren to Ashtabula, forty-eight miles. The third is from the town of Wooster, through Medina to Cleaveland, fifty-one miles. The fourth is from Columbus to Sandusky, 106 miles, now in the course of construction. Another from Cincinnati, through Lebanon and Columbus, to \Vooster, has been com- menced on the McAdamized plan, but is not OHIO. 217 completed. A McAdam turnpike from Cin- cinnati to Chillicothe is in progress. The national road, constructed by the general government, and transferred to the State, passes from Wheeling, through Columbus, to the Indiana line. Manufactures. The principal factory for woollen goods is at Steubenville. A number of cotten factories are in the towns along the Ohio river. Furnaces for smelting iron ore are in operation in the counties bordering on the Ohio, near the mouth of the Scioto. Glass is manufactured in several towns. Con- siderable salt is made on the Muskingum below Zanesville, on the Scioto, and on Yellow creek above Steubenville. About half a mil- lion of bushels were made in the State, in 1830. Cincinnati rivals Pittsburgh in the number, variety and extent of its manufacturing oper- ations. In every town and village through the State, mechanics' shops are established for the man- ufacture of all articles of ordinary use, Cities and Towns. To enter upon minute descriptions, or even name all these, would much exceed the bounds of this work. CINCINNATI is the great commercial empo- rium of the State. It is pleasantly situated on the right or northern bank of the Ohio river, about equidistant from Pittsburgh and its mouth, in north latitude 39 06', and west longitude from Washington city 7 25'. 218 PECK'S GUIDE. Directly fronting the city to the south, and on the opposite side of the Ohio river, are the flourishing manufacturing towns of Newport and Covington, which are separated by the Licking river, of Kentucky, which enters the Ohio directly opposite the Cincinnati landing. The wharf arrangements are the most con- venient for lading and unlading goods at all stages of the water, to be found on our west- ern rivers. The town site is beautifully sit- uated on the first and second banks of the river, the former of which is above ordinary high water, and the latter gently rises sixty or seventy feet higher, and spreads out into a semicircular plain, surrounded with elevated bluffs. Cincinnati was founded in 1789, but did not grow rapidly till about 1808. The progressive increase of population will appear from the following table: In Population. In Population. 1810, 2,320 1826,. . 16,230 1813, \ . 4,000 1830, 26,515 1819, 10,000 1835, estimated,. .31,000 1824, 12,016 Add the adjoining towns of Covington and Newport, whose interests .ire identified, and the aggregate population will equal thirty-five thousand; and, in all reasonable probability, in 1850, these towns, with Cincinnati, will number one hundred thousand active, edu- cated and enterprising citizens. In 1826, ac- OHIO. 219 cording to the "Picture of Cincinnati," by B. Drake, Esq. and E. D. Mansfield, Esq., the manufacturing industry alone, according to an accurate statistical examination, amount- ed to $ 1,800,000. At that time, there were not more than fifteen steam-engines employed in manufactures, in the city. At the close of 1835, there were more than fifty in successful operation, besides four or five in Newport and Covington. "More than one hundred steam- engines, about two hundred and forty cotton- gins, upwards of twenty sugar-mills, and twenty-two steam-boats (many of them of the largest size), have been built or manufactured in Cincinnati during the year 1835."* Hence the productive industry of Cincinnati, Coving- ton and Newport, for 1835, may be estimated at $5,000,000. By a laborious investigation, at the close of 1826, by the same writer, the exports of that year were about 1,000,000 in value. A similar inquiry induced him to place the exports of 1832 at $4,000,000. The esti- mate for 1835 is $6,000,000. To enumerate all the public and private edifices deserving notice, would extend this article to too great a length. The court- house, four market-houses, banks, college, Catholic Athenaeum, two medical colleges, mechanics' institute, two museums, hospital and lunatics' asylum, the Woodward high * See a valuable statistical article, by B. Drake, Esq., in the Western Monthly Magazine, for January, 1836, enti- tled, " Cincinnati, at the close of 1835." 220 PECK'S GUIDE. school, ten or twelve large edifices for free schools, hotels, and between twenty-five and thirty houses for public worship, some of which are elegant, deserve notice. The type foundry and printing-press manufactory, is one of the most extensive in the United States. Here is machinery, lately invented, for casting printer's types, exceeding, per- haps, any thing in the world. Printing, and the manufacture of books, are extensively carried on in this city. Here are six large bookstores, several binderies, twelve or fifteen printing-offices, from which are issued ten weekly, fourtri-weekly, four daily, fourmonth- lyand one quarterly publications. Two medical publications, of a highly respectable charac- ter, are issued. The Western Monthly Mag- azine is too well known to need special notice here. The Cincinnati Mirror is a respectable literary periodical. The Family Magazine deserves notice. The Presbyterians, Baptists, Methodists, Roman Catholics, and, perhaps, other sects, have each their weekly paper, respectable in size and character. During four months, in 1831, there were issued from the Cincinnati press, 86,000 volumes, of which 20,300 were original works. In the same period, the periodical press issued 243,200 printed sheets. The business has increased greatly since that time. The " College of Professional Teachers," is an institution formed at the convention of teachers, held in this city, in October, 1832. OHIO. 221 Its objects are to unite the professional instruc- tors of youth throughout the Western coun- try in the cause in which they are engaged, and to elevate the character of the profession. Their meetings are held on the first Monday in October annually. Lectures are given, discussions held, reports made, and a respect- able volume of transaction published annual- ly. There is no doubt that much good will result to the cause of education in the West, from this annual convocation. Law School. An institution of this char- acter has been organized, under the manage- ment of Hon. J. C. Wright, and other gen- tlemen of the bar. Of Medical Schools there are two, at the heads of which are gentlemen of high char- acter and attainments in their profession. The Mechanics' Institute is designed for the diffusion of scientific knowledge among the mechanics and citizens generally, by means of popular lectures and mutual instruction. The Cincinnati Lyceum was formed for the purpose of useful instruction and entertain- ment, by means of popular lectures and debates. The Academic Institute is designed to aid the cause of education and elevate the profession amongst the teachers in Cincinna- ti. Its meetings are monthly. The Jlthenceum is an institution under the management of Roman Catholic priests. The college edi- fice is a splendid and permanent building, of great capacity. The Woodward High School 222 was founded by the late William Woodward. The fund yields an income of about $2000 annually. It is conducted by four professors, and has about one hundred and twenty stu- dents. The corporation has established a sys- tem of free schools, designed to extend the benefits of primary education to all classes, and ten or twelve large edifices have been erected for the purpose. I regret the want of documents to give particulars of this liberal and praiseworthy enterprise, which reflects much honor upon the city and its honorable corporation. In 1833, there were twenty public schools for males and females, and two thousand pupils. Many excellent private schools and seminaries, some of deserved celebrity, are sustained by individual enter- prise. CoLU3iBus, the political capital of the* State, and nearly in the centre of the State, is a beautiful city, on the east bank of the Scioto river. In 1812, it was covered with a dense forest, when it was selected by the leg- islature for the permanent seat of govern- ment. The public buildings are a state-house, a court-house for the Supreme Court, a building for the public offices, a market-house, 8tc., all of brick. The State penitentiary is here, for which a new substantial building is constructing, and an Asylum for the deaf and dumb, sustained by legislative aid. Chillicothe, Cleaveland, Zanesville, Steu- benville, Circleville and many others, are large and flourishing towns. OHIO. 223 Education. Charters for eight or ten col- leges and collegiate institutions have been granted. Congress has granted 92,800 acres of public land to this State, for colleges and academies. One township (23,040 acres), and a very valuable one, has been given to the Miami university, at Oxford. Two town- ships of land (46,080 acres), though of infe- rior quality, have been given to the Ohio university. Academies have been established in most of the principal towns. A common school system has been established by the legislature. Each township has been divided into school districts. Taxes are levied to the amount of three fourths of a mill upon the dollar of taxable property in the State, which, with the interest accruing from the different school funds already noticed, are applied to- wards the expenses of tuition. Five school examiners are appointed in each county, by the court of common pleas, who are to ex- amine teachers. The governer, in his recent message, speaks of the common school sys- tem as languishing in proportion to other improvements. Form of Government. The legislative au- thority is vested in a Senate and House of Representatives; both of which, collectively, are styled the General Assembly. The mem- bers of both branches are chosen by counties, or by districts composed of counties, accord- ing to population. The representatives are chosen annually, the senators biennially. 224 PECK'S GUIDE. The General Assembly has the sole power of enacting laws; the signature or assent of the governor not being necessary in any case whatever. The judiciary system comprises three grades of courts; the Supreme Court, courts of common pleas, and Justices' courts. The justices of the peace are chosen triennially, by the people. The executive authority is vested in a governor, who is elected biennially, and must be thirty years of age, and have resided in the State at least four years. He is commander-in-chief of all the militia, and commissions all officers in the State, both civil and military. Each free, white male citizen of the United States, of twenty-one years of age, and a resident of the State one year preceding an election, is entitled to a vote in all _elections. The following shows the professions, occu- pations; and nativity of the members of the legislature of Ohio, during the present winter (1335-6), and is about a proportionate esti- mate for other Western States: The members of the Ohio legislature, as to their occupations and professions, are: farm- ers, fifty-eight; lawyers, seventeen; merchants thirteen; doctors, five; printers, three; sur- veyors, two; millers, two; masons, two; car- penters, two; painter, one; watch-maker, one; blacksmith, one; house joiner, one. Their nativity is as follows: Ohio, seven; Pennsylvania, thirty; Virginia, twenty-two; New England States, seventeen; Maryland, OHIO. 225 eight; New York, seven; New Jersey, four; Kentucky, three; Delaware, two; North Carolina, one; Ireland, five; England, one; Germany, one. The youngest member in the Senate, is thirty-three years of age, and the oldest fifty- six. In the House, the youngest twenty-six; oldest sixty-seven. Under the constitution, a senator must be thirty; and a member of the House, twenty-six. Antiquities. Much has been said about the antiquities of Ohio, the fortifications, arti- ficial mounds, and military works, supposed to indicate a race of civilized people, as the possessors of the country, anterior to the In- dian nations. At Marietta, Circleville, Paint creek, and some other places, are, doubtless, antiquities, that exhibited upon their first dis- covery, strong marks of a military purpose. I have no doubt, however, that credulity and enthusiasm have greatly exaggerated many appearances in the \Vest, and magnified them into works of vast enterprise and labor. Mounds of earth are found in every country on the globe, of all forms and sizes; and why should they not exist in the western valley ? Mr. Flint states that he has seen a horse-shoe dug up at the depth of thirty-five feet below the surface, with nails in it, and much eroded by rust. He mentions also a sword, which is said to be preserved as a curiosity, but which he had not seen, found enclosed in the wood of the roots of a tree, which could not 10* 226 PECK'S GUIDE. have been less than five hundred years old I Those who delight especially in the marvel- lous, may consult the "Description of the Antiquities discovered in the State of Ohio and other Western States, by Caleb Atwater, Esq." History. The first permanent settlement of Ohio, was made at Marietta, April 7, 1788, by forty-seven persons from Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Connecticut. This was the nucleus around which has grown up the populous State of Ohio. Amongst the most active promoters of this colony, were those called then "The Ohio Company." The next settlement was that of Symmes' purchase, made at Columbia, six miles above Cincinnati, in November, 1789, by Major Stites and twenty-five others, under the direction of Judge Symmes. A colony of French emi- grants settled at Gallipolis, in 1791. In 1796, settlements were made by New England emi- grants at Cleaveland and Conneaut, on the southern shore of lake Erie. The intermedi- ate country gradually filled up by emigration from various parts of the United States. Some slight diversity exists, in different sec- tions of the State, in manners, customs and feelings, amongst the people, in accordance with the States or countries from which they or their fathers emigrated. These shades of character will become blended, and the next generation will be Ohions, or, to use their own native cognomen, Buckeyes, OHIO. 227 The first territorial legislature convened at Cincinnati, in September, 1790. The gov- ernor having exercised his right of veto in re- lation to the removal of a county seat, an un- happy collision followed, and, upon framing the State constitution, in November, 1802, the convention prevented the governor of the State from ever exercising the negative power upon acts of the legislature. Date of Organization of some of the oldest Counties. Washington, July 27, 1788 Hamilton, Jan. 2, 1790 Adams, . . ' July 10, 1797 Jefferson,. . July 29, 1797 Ross, Aug. 20, 1798 Trumbull, July 18, 1800 Clermont, Dec. 6, 1800 Belmont, Sept. 7, 1801 These were all organized under the territo rial government. CHAPTER XI. INDIANA. Boundaries and Extent Counties Population at different Periods Face of the Country Sketch of each County - Form of Government Finances Internal Improve- ments Manufactures Education History General Remarks. LENGTH two hundred and forty, breadth one hundred and fifty miles; between 37 48' north latitude, and 7 45' and 11 west longi- tude; bounded north by the State of Michigan and lake Michigan, east by Ohio, south by the Ohio river, which separates it from Kentucky, and west by Illinois. It contains about 37,000 square miles, equal to 23,680,000 acres. It is naturally subdivided into the hilly por- tion, bordering on the Ohio; the level, timber- ed portion, extending across the middle of the State; the Wabash country, on that river; and the northern portion, bordering on the State of Michigan and the lake. The two last por- tions include nearly all the prairie country. For civil purposes, this State has been di- vided into counties, and those subdivided into townships. INDIANA. 229 Table of Counties, Seats of Justice, fyc. Counties. Date of Formation. 2 0! go rjfE Seats of Justice. Allen, 1823 1821 1830 1828 1829 1802 1825 1830 1818 1816 1802 1821 1827 1817 1830 1818 1819 1825 1810 1813 1831 1821 1823 1828 1808 1823 1821 1832 1815 1809 1816 i!822 1802 1832 720 588 400 450 460 400 360 450 350 460 448 400 440 420 576 200 200 400 400 450 415 540 400 340 470 420 440 400 500 400 400 300 540 420 1,000 5,800 622 1,614 1,154 10,719 1,616 1,423 3,184 4,512 14,573 5,854 2,372 1,774 935 9,112 6,363 7,644 10,199 5,417 4,250 1,705 1,569 10,288 3,967 6,498 Fort Wayne. Columbus. Lebanon. Delphi. Logansport. Charlestowu. Bowling Green. Frankfort. Fredonia. Washington. Lawrenceville. Greensburgh. Muncytown. Jasper. Goshen. Connersville. New Albany. Covington. Brookville. Princeton. Marion. Bloornfield. Noblesville. Greenfield. Corydon. Danville. Newcastle. Brownstown. Madison. Vernon. Franklin VSncennes. La Porte. Bartholomew, . . . Boon, Carroll, Cass, Clark, Clay, Clinton, Crawford, Daviess, Dearborn, Delaware, . . Dubois, .... Elkhart, ...... Fayette, Floyd, Fountain, Franklin, Gibson, Grant, Greene, Hamilton, Hancock, Harrison, Hendricks, Henry, Huntington, 4,894 11,465 3,950 4,130 6,557 Jefferson, Johnson, La Porte, . 230 PECK S GUIDE. Counties. Date o Formation. II Xs a K Seats of Justice. Lagrange, Lawrence, 1832 1818 380 460 9,237 Mongoquinon. Bedford. 1823 420 2,442 Andersontown. Marion, Martin, . , 1821 1818 440 340 7,181 2,010 INDIANOPOLTS. Mount Pleasant. 1832 330 Miamisport. Monroe, 1818 560 6,578 Bloomington. Montgomery, .... Morgan, 1822 1821 500 530 7,376 5,579 Crawfordsville. Martinsville. Orange, 1815 1818 378 380 7,909 4,060 Paoli. Spencer. Parke, 1821 450 7,534 Rockville. Perry, 1814 400 3,378 Rome. Pike, 1816 430 2,464 Peter sburgh. Posey, 1814 500 6 883 Mount Vernon Putnam, 1821 490 8 195 Greencastle. Randolph, . 1818 440 3 912 Winchester Ripley, Rush, 1818 1821 400 400 3,957 9,918 Versailles. Rushville. Scott, 1817 ?00 3,097 Lexington. Shelby, 1821 430 6,294 Shelbyville. Spencer, 1818 400 3,187 Rockport. St. Joseph, 1830 1816 740 430 287 4,696 South Bend. Merom. Switzerland, .... Tippecanoe, .... 1814 1826 1821 300 500 224 7,111 7,161 7,957 Vevay. Lafayette. Liberty. Vanderburgh, .... 1818 225 2,610 Evansville. Vermilion, Vi*o, 1823 1818 280 400 5,706 5,737 Newport. Terre Haute. Wabash, Warren, Warrick, Washington, Wavne, . 1832 1828 1813 1813 1810 380 350 412 550 420 2,854 2,973 13,072 23.344 Williamsport. Boonville. Salem. Centreville. INDIANA. 231 The total population is 1830 was 341,682; the estimated population in the message of Gov. Noble, to the legislature, December, 1835, was 600,000. The counties in which the population has not been given in the foregoing table, have been formed since 1830. Probably other new counties, along the waters of the Wabash and Kankakee, have been formed recently, of which no intelligence has been had by the author. The counties in the northern portion of the State have increased the most in popu- lation since 1830. For electing representatives to Congress, the State is divided into seven electoral dis- tricts: for judicial purposes, it is divided into eight circuits, in each of which there is a cir- cuit judge, who, together with two associates in each county, holds the circuit courts. Population at Different Periods. From Increase. 1800 to 1810, . . 21,879 1810 " 1820, . . 122,658 1820 " 1825, . . 74,822 1825 " 1830, . . 119,582 1830 " 1835, . . 258,418 In Population. 1800 (excluding Illinois), .... 2,641 1810, 24,520 1820, 147,178 1825, 222,000 1830, 341,582 1835, estimated, 600,000 In 1825, the number of voters was 36,977, and the number of paupers, 217. Face of the Country, fyc. The counties bor- dering on the Ohio river are hilly; sometimes abrupt, precipitous, stony, and occasionally 232 PECK'S GUIDE. degenerating into knobs and ravines. Com- mencing at the mouth of White river, on the Wabash, and following up that stream, on its east fork, and thence along the Muscatatack, through Jennings and Ripley counties, to Lawrenceville, and you leave the rough and hilly portion of Indiana to the right. Much of the country we have denominated hilly is rich, fertile land, even to the summit of the hills. On all the streams are strips of rich alluvion of exhaustless fertility. The interior, on the two White rivers and tributaries, is moderately undulating, tolerably rich soil, and much of it heavily timbered with oaks of various species, poplar, beech, sugar-tree, walnut, hickory, elm and other varieties com- mon to the West. There is much level, table land, between the streams. Along the Wa- bash, below Terre Haute, is an undulating surface, diversified with forest and prairie, having a soil of middling quality, interspersed with some very rich tracts. Above Terre Haute, along the Wabash and its tributa- ries, the land in general is first rate; a large proportion forest, interspersed with beautiful prairies. The timber consists of oak of va- rious species, poplar, ash, walnut, cherry, sugar-tree, buckeye, hickory, beech, sassa- fras, linden, honey-locust, with some cotton- wood, sycamore, hackberry and mulberry on the bottom lands. The undergrowth is spice- bush, hazel, plum, crab-apple, hawthorn and vines. Along the northern part of the State INDIANA. 233 are extensive prairies and tracts of barrens, with groves of various kinds of timber, and skirts of burr-oak. Towards lake Michigan, and along the Kankakee and St. Joseph rivers, are lakes, swamps and marshes. Rivers. The Ohio meanders along the south-eastern and southern parts of the State for 350 miles. The east and west forks of White river, and their tributaries, water the interior counties for 100 miles in extent. They are both navigable streams for flat-boats during the spring and autumn floods. The Wabash river has several heads, which inter- lock with the waters of the St. Joseph and St. Mary's, which form the Maumee of lake Erie. It runs a south-westwardly course across the State, to Warren county, thence south- wardly to Vigo county, where it becomes the boundary between Indiana and Illinois, along which it meanders to the Ohio, which it enters twelve miles above Shawneetown. The St. Joseph of lake Michigan, already noticed under the State of Michigan, makes a curve into Elkhart and St. Joseph counties, forming what is called the South Bend. The Kankakee, which is the longest branch of Illinois river, rises in Indiana, near the South Bend. Some of its head waters interlock with those of Tip- pecanoe, a prominent tributary of the Wabash. Sketch of each County. The following sketch of each county, its streams, surface, soil and minerals, has been made and collated with much labor, from an excellent Gazetteer of 11 234 this State, published in 1833, by Douglass & Maguire, of Indianopolis, from personal ob- servation of many of the older counties, and from an extensive correspondence. Jllle.n. Streams; Saint Joseph's and Saint Mary's, which form the Maumee of lake Erie (navigable for small keel-boats), and numer- ous creeks; generally heavily timbered; soil clay, sandy on the rivers. Bartlioleinew. Streams; Driftwood, Clif- ty, Flat Rock, and Salt Creeks, all mill streams. Surface, level; soil, a rich loam, mixed with sand and gravel; the western part hilly, with clay soil. Minerals; lime- stone, coal, iron ore, red ochre. Boon. Watered by the tributaries of Ra- coon and Sugar Creeks. Surface, level, soil rich. Carroll. Streams; Wabash river, Deer, Rock, and branches of Wildcat creeks. Con- siderable timber, some prairies, of which Deer prairie is the largest and most beautiful. Considerable quantities of limestone on the surface; a remarkable spring near Delphi, the water reddish. Cass. Streams are Wabash and Eel rivers, which unite at Logansport, the head of steam-boat navigation of the W^abash. Sur- face, generally level, rolling towards the rivers with abrupt bluffs; soil, near the rivers, a mixture of loam and sand; at a distance from them, flat and clayey. Large proportion forest land, some prairies. INDIANA. 235 Clark. Silver and Fourteen Mile creeks furnish excellent mill sites. Ohio river on the south. Surface, rolling and hilly; soil, loam, mixed with sand. Minerals; limestone, gypsum, water lime, marble, salt, iron ore, copperas, alum. Clay. Eel river and tributaries. Surface moderately undulating; soil various, chiefly clay and loam, and a mixture of sand, in places; timber predominates, some prairies. Clinton. Watered by the South, Middle, and Kilmore's Forks of Wildcat creek. Sur- face, moderately undulating, or level: Twelve Mile prairie extends from south-west to north- east twelve miles, and is three fourths of a mile wide. Theremaindertimberedland. Soil, a rich sandy loam, and exceedingly fertile. Crawford. Waters; the Ohio and Blue rivers, plenty of water power, and excellent springs. Surface, hilly and broken; in places, tolerably productive; in others, soil thin and rocky. A timbered region, and abundance of limestone. Daviess. Streams; Forks of White river, with its tributaries, Smother's, Prairie, Veal, Aikman's and Sugar creeks. Level bottoms on the rivers sometimes inundated; undula- ting on the high grounds. Soil on the West Fork, sandy; much timber, an extensive tract of sugar tree; some prairies. The county destitute of rock near the surface; plenty of lime arid sandstone in the bed of West Fork of White river, at the rapids. Plenty of coal. 236 PECK'S GUIDE. Dearborn. Watered by the Great Miami, Whitewater, Laugliery, Hogan's and Tan- ner's creeks. Surface hilly and broken, with rich, level, bottom lands, on the Miami. Soil, one fourth first rate, one fourth second rate, remainder inferior. A timbered region. Decatur. Flat Rock, Clifty, and Sand creeks, are all good mill streams. Surface, generally level, some parts undulating; soil, loam, with a substratum of clay; well adapt- ed to grain, timbered. Minerals; limestone, some iron ore and coal. Delaware. Streams; Missisinawa, and West Fork of White river; surface tolera- bly level; soil, loam, mixed with sand. Min- erals; some limestone, and granite bowlders scattered over the surface. Dubois. Streams; East Fork of White river, Patoka and Anderson creeks. Surface rolling, some parts hilly and broken, some level tracts; soil, rich and sandy loam near the streams. Minerals; sandrock and coal. Elkliart. Watered by St. Joseph of lake Michigan, Elkhart and tributaries. Surface, generally level, a portion undulating; soil various, but generally rich; forest and prairie, both wet and dry. Fayette. Watered by the West Fork of Whitewater, and a small lake in the north. Surface, undulating; soil, on the high ground, clayey, and a mixture of sand, on the bottom lands, a rich, sandy loam. Limestone found in masses and quarries. INDIANA. 237 Floyd. Watered by the Ohio river, Silver creek, and some head branches of Big and Little Indian creeks. Surface various, a range of knobs, east of these knobs, it is gently undulating; soil inferior. Minerals; shale, soft sandstone, limestone, freestone, iron ore, and some traces of coal. A boiling spring, from which is emitted an inflammable gas. Fountain. Watered by the Wabash river, and Coal and Shawnee creeks, with numerous mill sites. Surface, gently undulating; soil, a black loam, mixed with sand and very rich. Minerals; coal, and some sandstone. Franklin. Watered by the East and West Forks of Whitewater. Surface, on the east- ern part level, western, rolling; soil, in the central and northern parts, a black loam, in the south-west, thin and clayey. Gibson. Watered by the Wabash, White, and Patoka rivers. Surface, rolling and tim- bered; soil, generally a sandy loam, and pro- ductive. Grant. Watered by the Missisinawa and tributaries. Surface level, generally heavily timbered; soil, clay and loam on the table lands, sandy on the river bottoms. Green. Watered by White and Eel rivers, and Richland creek; soil, on the river?, a rich loam, on the bluffs, sandy, east side, hilly, west side, level. White river is navigable. Minerals; lime and sandstone, coal, and some iron ore. 238 Hamilton. The streams are White river, and Cicero, Coal, Stoney, and Fall creeks. Generally forest, some few prairies; soil, in places, clay, more generally, a sandy loam. Minerals; lime, and some soft sand rock. Hancock. Watered by Blue river, Sugar and Brandywine creeks, with excellent mill sites, and well supplied with springs. Sur- face, either level or gently undulating; soil, a rich loam, mixed with sand, heavily tim- bered. Harrison. Watered by Big and Little In- dian, and Buck creeks, and Blue river. Sur- face various, some parts hilly and broken, some parts undulating, some parts level; soil, in the low grounds, a rich loam, on the high grounds, calcareous and gravelly. A large tract of "barrens." in the ,west. Min- erals; a quarry and several caves of black flint, salt licks, limestone. Hendricks. The waters are White Lick, and branches of Eel river, with good mill sites. Surface, gently rolling, and timbered with the varieties of the Wabash country; soil, a mixture of clay, loam and sand. Henry. Watered by Blue river, Flat Rock and Fall creeks. Surface, in some places, broken, in most parts, level: soil, a mixture of sand with loam and clay. Plenty of springs and mill sites. Mostly timbered, but several tracts of prairie. Huntington. The streams are Salamania, Little river, and Wabash. Surface, on the INDIANA. 239 rivers, level, back, gently undulating; soil, loam and clay, with a slight mixture of sand. Several tracts of prairie, but generally forest land. Jackson. Watered by Indian, Driftwood, White, Muscatatack, and Gum creeks. Sur- face, rolling and in places hilly; soil, clay and loam, mixed with sand. In the forks of the creeks, sand predominates. On the west and north-west, inclined to clay. Jefferson. Watered by the Ohio river, Indian-Kentucky and Big creeks. Surface various; along the river and creeks, low allu- vion; soil, loam mixed with sand. The bot- toms are bounded by precipitous bluffs, with towering cliffs of limestone. The table lands are undulating, and the soil inclined to clay. Timber various. Abounds with limestone, masses of freestone, and scattered granite bowlders. Johnson. Watered on the eastern side by Blue river, and Sugar and Young's creeks, on the western side by Indian, Crooked, and Stott's creeks. Surface, gently undulating; soil, a rich, black, sandy loam; timbered. Minerals; masses of freestone, and scattered granite bowlders. Jennings. Watered by Graham's Fork, and the North Fork of the Muscatatack. Surface, in some parts level, some parts very hilly; soil, calcareous, rich and productive; timber of all varieties; abounds with lime- stone. 240 PECK'S GUIDE. ^H , ^ 1 Knox. The Wabash on the west side, White river south, the West Fork of White river east, and Maria and Duchatn creeks, interior. Surface undulating; soil, somewhat various, a rich loam in places, sandy in other places; some tracts of prairie, but timber predominates. Tiagrange, Watered by Pigeon and Crook- ed rivers. Surface, gently rolling; northern part extensive prairies; southern portion chief- ly forest; soil, loam and sand. La Porte. Watered by the Kankakee, Galena, and Trail creek, at the mouth of which is Michigan city and a harbor for lake Michigan commerce. Surface, gently undu- lating; abounds with large, rich prairies, with groves of timber, and lakes of clear water interspersed; soil, a sandy loam, rich and productive. Laivrence. Watered by Salt, Indian, Guthrie's, Beaver, and Leatherwood creeks, and excellent springs. Surface, generally hilly, some level lands; soil, on the water courses, sandy, back from the streams, loam and clay. Abounds with limestone. Madison. The West Fork of White river is navigable. The other streams are Killbuck, Pipe, Lick and Fall creeks. Surface, gener- ally level, with some broken land near the streams; timbered, with a wet prairie, seven miles long and three fourths of a mile wide; soil, sand, mixed with clay and loam, pro- ductive. Minerals; lime and freestone, INDIANA. 241 marble that polishes well, and some traces of iron ore. Marion. West Fork of White river passes through it, on which is situated INDIANOPOLIS, the capital of the State. Fall creek is an ex- cellent mill stream. Surface, chiefly level forest land; soil, a deep black loam, with a mixture of sand. Large granite bowlders are scattered over the surface. Martin. The East Fork of White river passes through it, and receives Lost river from the left, and Indian and Flint creeks from the right. Surface, on the east side of White river, broken and hilly; soil, clay and loam; on the west side, level, or gently undulating, with portions of barrens and prairie land; soil, clay and loam, mixed with sand. Minerals; coal in large quantities, lime, sand and free- stone. Miami. The W abash and Eel rivers pass through it, and the Missisinawa comes from the east, and enters the Wabash about the centre of the county. The Wabash and Erie canal passes through it. Surface, gently un- dulating and beautiful, chiefly forest, and interspersed with small prairies; soil, the rich- est in the State, of loam, clay and sand inter- mixed. Monroe. Streams; Salt, Clear, Indian, Racoon, Richland, and Bean-blossom creeks, pure springs. Surface, hilly and undula- ting; soil, second rate. Minerals; limestone rock, salt licks, with manufactories of salt. 242 PECK'S GUIDE. Montgomery. The heads of Shawnee and Coal creeks in the north-west, Sugar creek in the centre, and Big Racoon on the south- eastern part. Surface, gently undulating; the northern portion prairie, interspersed with groves, with a rich soil of black loam, mixed with sand, the middle and southern portions timbered. Excellent quarries of rock in the middle, granite bowlders in the northern parts. Morgan. White river, which is navigable. The mill streams are White Lick, Sycamore, Highland, and Lamb's creeks on the west side, and Crooked, Stott's, Clear, and Indian creeks on the east side. Surface, generally rolling, some parts hilly; soil, calcareous and clayey, on the bottoms, a rich sandy loam. Minerals; limestone, and some iron ore. Orange. Streams; Lost river, French Lick, and Patoka. Surface, hilly and broken, limestone rock, springs of water, of which Half-moon and French Lick are curiosities. On the alluvial bottoms, the soil is loamy, on the hills, calcareous, and inclined to clay. Excellent stones for grit, equal to the Turkey oil stones are found in this county. Owen. Watered by the West Fork of White river, with its tributaries, Racoon, Indian, Mill, Rattlesnake, and Fish creeks. The falls of Eel river furnish the best water power in the State. Surface rolling; soil, in some places a dark loam, in others clayey INDIANA. 243 and calcareous. Minerals; immense bodies of lime rock, and some iron ore. Parke. Watered by the Big and Little Racoon, and Sugar creeks (with excellent mill sites), all of which enter the Wabash on its western side. Surface, generally level, some beautiful prairies, but mostly forest land; soil, a loam, mixed with sand, and rich. Mine- rals; lime and sandstone, coal and iron ore. Perry. Watered by the Ohio river, with Anderson's, Bear, Poison, and Oil creeks in- terior. Some level land, with a rich, sandy loam, on the streams, all the high lands very broken; hilly, with a clayey, sterile soil. Minerals; immense bodies of limestone, grind- stone quarries, iron ore and coal. Pike has White river on the north, and Patoka creek through the centre. Surface all forest land and undulating; soil, eastern part clay and sand, western, a rich, dark loam, mixed with sand, some swampy land. Minerals; limestone and coal. Posey. In the forks of the Ohio and Wa- bash, with Big, Mill, and McFadden's creeks interior, and good springs. Surface, rolling, and all forest land; soil, a sandy loam, and produces well. Minerals; sand, and lime- stone, and coal. Putnam has Racoon creek, and Eel river, with abundant water privileges, and fine springs. Surface, gently undulating; soil, in places calcareous and clayey, in other places a rich loam; limestone. 244 PECK'S GUIDE. Randolph. Water courses; the West Fork of White river and Missisinawa and their tributaries, which furnish good mill sites. Surface, either level or gently undulating; soil, a rich loam, in some places marshy; a small quantity of limestone, with granite bowlders. Ripley. Watered by Laughery and Gra- ham's creek. Surface, level, forest land; soil clay, in some parts inclines to sand, with limestone abundant. Rush. The streams are Big and Little Blue river, Big and Little Flat Rock, with excellent water power. Surface, moderately rolling, and heavily timbered; soil, loam on clay, with a slight mixture of sand. Scott. Watered by tributaries of the Mus- catatack. Surface rolling, some flat lands, inclining to marsh; soil, clay; minerals, lime- stone, iron ore, salt, sulphur and copperas. Shelby. Watered by Big and Little Blue river, Brandywine and Sugar creeks, with good mill sites, all heads of the east fork of White river. Surface, generally level, with forest land; soil, clay, mixed with loam. Spencer. Ohio river, Anderson's, Little Pigeon and Sandy creeks. Surface tolerably level, and forest land; soil, clay, mixed with loam: minerals; coal, lime, and sandrock. St Joseph. St. Joseph's river, Kankakee and Bobango, with some small creeks; exten- sive marshes on the Kankakee, and near the South Bend of the St. Joseph. These marshes INDIANA. 245 are of vegetable formation. Surface, in some parts level, in others, gently undulating; soil, a loam, in some places sand. The north-west part chiefly prairies and barrens, including the large and fertile prairies of Portage and Terre Coupee. The north-eastern, barrens; the south-eastern, forest. Minerals, granite bowlders and bog-iron ore. Sullivan has the Wabash river on its west- ern side, and Turman's, Busseron and Turtle creeks, interior. Surface, rolling; some prairies, but generally forest land, some poor barrens; soil, loam and sand; lime, sandrock and coal. Switzerland. The Ohio east and south, Indian, Plum, Bryant's, Turtle and Grant's creeks, interior. Surface, various, bottom lands level and rich. then a range of precip- itous bluffs, with cliffs of limestone, the table land rolling, with a calcareous and clayey soil. At Vevay are extensive vineyards. Tippecanoe. Watered by the Wabash river, and Wildcat, W T ea, Burnett's and Mill Branch creeks. The W T abash affords naviga- tion, and the other streams excellent mill sites. Surface gently undulating, with exten- sive level tracts, and consists of one half prai- rie, one eighth barrens, and the remainder heavy forest land. The prairie soil is a rich, black loam, the barrens cold, wet clay, the forest a very rich loam and sand. Union. Streams; the East Fork of White river and its tributaries, Hanna's, Richland 246 and Silver creeks, all of which furnish excel- lent mill sites. Surface, moderately rolling; soil, a dark loam. Vanderburgfi. Watered by the Ohio and Great Pigeon creek. Surface, high, dry, rolling land, with good timber, and well wa- tered; soil, clay and sand, of inferior quality. Minerals; lime and sandstone, salines and a mineral spring. Vermilion. A long, narrow county, be- tween the W abash river and the State of Il- linois. The streams are Wabash, Big and Little Vermilion, and their tributaries. Sur- face high, rolling land, with abrupt bluffs near the streams; a good proportion of prairie and timber; soil, rich, sandy loam, and very pro- ductive. Minerals; freestone, limestone, and large coal banks. Vigo. The Wabash passes through it, navigable. The mill streams are Prairie, Honey, Otter and Sugar creeks, but their waters fail in a dry season. Surface level, or gently undulating, with forest and prairies; soil, first rate, rich loam and sand. Minerals; gray limestone, freestone, and inexhaustible beds of coal. Wabash. The Wabash river, and \Vabash and Erie canal, pass through it, as does the Missisinawa, Eel, Bluegrass and Salamania. Surface, wide, rich bottoms on the streams; bluffs and ravines adjoining; table lands fur- ther back, either dry and rolling, or flat and wet, and abounding with willow swamps. INDIANA. 247 Limestone rock abundant, and many excel- lent springs of pure water. Warren. The Wabash on the south-east border for thirty miles, and navigated by steam-boats; interior streams, Rock, Red- wood, and Big and Little Pine creeks, all of which afford good mill sites; some pine and cedar timber. Surface generally level, with broken land on the bluffs of creeks; some forest, but the largest proportion prairie; soil, a rich and very fertile loam. Minerals; lime and excellent freestone for building purposes, coal, iron, lead and copper, with several old " diggings " and furnaces, where copper and lead ore have been smelted in early times. Warrick. Watered by the Ohio river, Big and Little Pigeon and Cypress. Surface, rolling and hilly; soil, a sandy loam, on clay. Minerals; quarries of freestone, some lime- stone, and inexhaustible beds of coal. Washington. Streams; Muscatatack,on the north, Rush, Twin, Highland, Delany's, Elk, Bear and Sinking creeks, and the heads of Blue and Lost rivers, and mill sites. Surface, diversified, from gentle undulations, to lofty and precipitous hills; soil, in part, second rate, with much of inferior quality: substratum of limestone; caves, hollows and sink-holes. Wayne. Streams; East and West Forks of Whitewater, with excellent water-power for machinery. Surface, moderately hilly, heavy forest land ; soil, a rich loam ; substratum, clay. Minerals; generally limestone, excellent for building. 248 PECK'S GUIDE. Form of Government. This differs very little from that of Ohio. The constitution provides that an enumeration be made every five years of all free white male inhabitants, above the age of twenty-one years; and the representa- tion of both houses of the General Assembly is apportioned by such enumeration, in such ratio that the number of representatives shall never be less than thirty-six, nor exceed one hundred, and the number of senators not ex- ceeding one half nor less than one third the number of representatives. Every free white male citizen, twenty-one years of age, who has resided in the State one year, is entitled to vote; " except such as shall be enlisted in the army of the United States, or their allies," Elections are held annually, by ballot, on the first Monday in August. The governor, lieu- tenant governor and senators, hold their offi- ces for three years. The judiciary is vested in a Supreme Court, in circuit courts, probate courts, and justices of the peace. The Su- preme Court consists of three judges, who are appointed by the governor, with the advice and consent of the Senate, for the term of seven years, and have appellate jurisdiction. The circuit courts consist of a presiding judge in each judicial circuit, elected by joint ballot of both houses of the General Assembly, and two associate judges in each county, elected by the qualified voters, in their respective counties, for a like term. The probate courts consist of one judge for each county, who INDIANA. 249 is elected by the voters, for the same term. Justices of the peace are elected ia each township, for the term of five years, and have jurisdiction, in criminal cases, throughout the county, but in all civil cases, throughout the township. Finances. The Indiana Gazetteer, of 1833, estimates that the revenue for State purposes, amounted to about $35,000 annually; and, for county purposes, to about half that sum. The aggregate receipts for 1835, according to the governor's message of Dec. 1835, amounted to $107,714; expenditures for the same time, $103,901. Sales of canal lands for the same period, $175,740. The canal commissioners have borrowed $605,257, for canal purposes, on a part of which they obtained two per cent, premium, and, on another part, as high as seven per cent.; and have also borrowed $450,000 bank capital, for which they receiv- ed four and a half per cent, premium. Three per cent, on all sales of United States lands within the State is paid by the general gov- ernment into the State treasury, to be expend- ed in making roads. The receipts from this source, in 1835, amounted to $24,398. Sales and rents of saline lands, produced an income of $4,636. The proceeds of certain lands, donated by the general government towards the construction of a road from the Ohio river to lake Michigan, amounted to $33,030. Internal Improvements. This State has en- tered with great spirit upon a system of inter- 11* 250 PECK'S GUIDE. nal improvements. It consists of canaling, improving river navigation, rail-roads, and common turnpike-roads. Wabash and Erie Canal. This work will extend from Lafayette, on the Wabash river, up the valley of that stream, to the Maumee, and to the boundary of Ohio, a distance of one hundred and five miles. The cost of construc- tion has been estimated at $1,081,970, and lands to the amount of 355,200 acres, have been appropriated by the general government, the proceeds of which will be sufficient to com- plete the canal to Fort Wayne. The middle division, thirty-two miles, was completed in July, 1835, and the remainder is in active progress. Its whole distance, through a part of Ohio, to Maumee bay, at the west end of lake Erie, will be one hundred and eighty- seven miles. The Whitewater Canal, seventy-six miles in length, along the western branch of White- water, is intended to pass through Conners- ville, Brookville, Somerset and other towns, to Lawrenceburgh, on the Ohio river. Provision is made to improve the naviga- tion of the Wabash river, in conjunction with Illinois, where it constitutes the boundary line; and by this State alone, further up. Synopsis of canals surveyed by order of the Indiana legislature, in 1835. Lafayette and Terre Haute division of the Wabash and Erie canal; length, ninety miles; total cost, $1,067,914 70; per mile, $11,865 79. INDIANA. 251 Central Canal, north of Indianopolis: total length from Indianopolis, by the way of An- dersontown, Pipe creek summit, to the Wa- bash and Erie canal, at Wabash town, one hundred and three miles, thirty-four chains; total cost, $1,992,22454; per mile, $17,106 51: length, by the way of Pipe creek sum- mit, to Peru, near the mouth of the Missisi- nawa, one hundred and fourteen miles, forty- six chains; total cost, 1,897,797 19; per mile, $14,871 85: length, by the way of Pipe creek summit (including lateral canal to Mun- cytown), to Wabash town, one hundred and twenty-four miles, fifty-one chains; total cost, $2,103,15361; perrnile, $15,873 83: length, by the way of Pipe creek summit (including lateral canal to Muncytown), to Peru, one hundred and eighty-five miles, sixty-three chains; total cost, $2,008,726 26; per mile, $14,793 12. Total length, from Indianopolis, by the way of Muncytown, to the Wabash and Erie canal, at Peru, one hundred and thirty-one miles, forty-one chains; total cost, $2,058,929 41 ; per mile, $14,549 71. Cen- tral canal, south of Indianopolis: total length, from Indianopolis to Evansville, one hundred and eighty-eight miles; total cost, $2,642,285 92; per mile, $14,054 71. Route down the valley of Main Pigeon, length, one hundred and ninety-four miles; total cost, $2,400,957 70; per mile, $12,376 02. Terre Haute and Eel river Canal, which forms a connexion between the W^ abash and 252 PECK'S GUIDE. Erie canal and White river or Central canal: total length, forty miles and a half; total cost, $629,631 65; which, including a feeder, is $13,540 46 per mile. Wabash and Erie Canal, eastern division, (east of Fort Wayne); upper line, length, nineteen miles, thirty chains; total cost, $154,11313; permile/$7,952 17: lower line, total length, twenty miles, seventy-six and a half chains; total cost, 254,817 52; per mile, $11,159 04. The following are the works provided for in the bill, and the sums appropriated for them: 1. The Whitewater canal, including a lateral caiial or rail-road, to connect said canal with the Central or White river canal, $1,400,000 2. Central or White river canal, 3,500,000 3. Extension of the Wabash and Erie canal, 1,300,000 4. Madison and Lafayette rail-road,. . . 1,300,000 5. M'Adamized turnpike-road from New Albany to Vincennes, 1,150,000 6. Turnpike or rail-road, from New Al- bany to Crawfordsville, 1,300,000 7. Removing obstructions in the W T abash, 50,000 $10,000,000 8. The bill gives the credit of the State to the Lawrenceburgh and Indianopo- lis rail-road company, for the sum of $500,000 Rail-Roads, from Evansville, on the Ohio, to Lafayette, on the Wabash, one hundred and seventy-five miles, from Lafayette to Michigan city, ninety miles, forming a' line INDIANA. C 253 from the Ohio river to lake Michigan, two hundred and sixty-five miles in length; from Madison, on the Ohio, to Indianopolis, the seat of government, eighty-five miles; and several others, were projected three years since. But at the session of the legislature of 1835-6, a bill was passed to borrow, in such instalments as should be needed, tenmillions of dollars; and a system of internal improvements, including canals, rail-roads, and the improvement of river navigation, was marked out. In a few years, this State will be prominent in this species of enterprise. Manufactures. Besides the household man- ufacture of cotton and flannels, common to the western people, at Vincennes, and probably other towns, machinery is employed in seve- ral establishments. It will be seen from the sketch of each county, already given, that in most parts of the State there is a supply of water power for manufacturing purposes. Both water and steam power, saw and grist- mills, are already in operation in various parts of the State. Education. The same provision, of one section of land in each township, or a thirty- sixth part of the public lands, has been made for the encouragement of common schools, as in other Western States. A law has been enacted providing for common schools, and the public rnind has become in a measure awakened to the subject of education. Some most extravagant and exaggerated statements have been made, relative to an incredible 254 PECK'S GUIDE. number of children in this State, " who have no means of education." As in all new coun- tries, the first class of emigrants, having to provide for their more immediate wants, have not done so much as is desirable to promote common school education; but we have no idea they will slumber on that subject, while they are wide awake to the physical wants and resources of the country. Academies have been established in several counties, and a college at Bloomington, from the encourage- ment of State funds; and other institutions are rising up, of which the Hanover institution, near the Ohio river, and Wabash college, at Crawfordsville, promise to be conspicuous. History. This country was first explored by adventurers from Canada, with a view to the Indian trade, towards the close of the sev- enteenth century; and the place where Vin- cennes now stands is said to have been thus early occupied as a trading post. A company of French, from Canada, made a settlement here, in 1735. The country, in common with the \Vestern Valley, was claimed by France, until it was ceded to Great Britain, at the treaty of peace, in 1763, under whose juris- diction it remained, until subdued by the American arms, under the intrepid Gen. G. R. Clark, and his gallant band, in 1779. A territorial government was organized by Con- gress, in 1787, including all the country north- west of the Ohio river, which was then called the North-Western Territory. In 1802, when the State of Ohio was organized, all that part INDIANA. 255 of the Territory lying west of a line due north from the mouth of the Great Miami, was or- ganized into the Territory of Indiana; which was divided, and from which Illinois Territory was formed in 1809. In June, 1816, a con- stitution was adopted, and at the ensuing ses- sion of Congress, Indiana was made a State. General Remarks. The importance of In- diana, as a desirable State for the attention of the emigrant to the West, has been too much overlooked. Although not possessing quite equal advantages with Illinois, especially in the quality and amount of prairie soil, it is far superior to Ohio; and fully equal, nay, in our estimation, rather superior to Michigan. Almost every part is easy of access, and in a very few years the liberal system of internal improvements, adopted and in progress, will make almost every county accessible to public conveyances, and furnish abundant facilities to market. Along the wide, alluvion bottoms of the streams, and amidst a rank growth of vegeta- tion, there is usually more or less autumnal fever; yet, in general, there is very little dif- ference in any of the Western States as to prospects of health. Mechanics, school teachers, and laborers of every description, are much wanted in this State, as they are in all the States further west; and all may provide abundantly -and easily all the necessaries of living for a family, if they will use industry, economy and sobriety. CHAPTER XII ILLINOIS. Boundaries and Extent Face of the Country and Qualities of Soil Inundated Land River Bottoms, or Alluvion Prairies Barrens Forest, or timbered Land Knobs, Bluffs, Ravines and Sink-holes Rivers, &c. Animal, Mineral and Vegetable Productions Manufactures Civil Divisions Tabular View of the Counties Sketch of each County Towns Projected Improvements Education Government General Remarks. THE State of Illinois is situated between 37 and 42 30' north latitude; and between 10 25' and 14 30' west longitude from Wash- ington city. It is bounded on the north by Wisconsin Territory, north-east by lake Mich- igan, east by Indiana, south-east and south by Kentucky, and west by Missouri. Its extreme length is three hundred and eighty miles; and its extreme width, two hundred and twenty miles; its average width, one hundred and fifty miles. The area of the whole State, in- cluding a small portion of lake Michigan with- in its boundaries, is 59,300 square miles. ILLINOIS. 251 The water area of the State is about 3750 square miles. W^th this, deduct 5550 square miles for irreclaimable wastes, and there re- mains 50,000 square miles, or 32,000,000 of acres of arable land in Illinois, a much greater quantity than is found in any other State. In this estimate, inundated lands, submerged by high waters, but which may be reclaimed at a moderate expense, is included. Face of the Country, and qualities of Soil. The general surface is level, or moderately undulating; the northern and southern por- tions are broken and somewhat hilly, but no portion of the State is traversed with ranges of hills or mountains. At the verge of the al- luvial soil on the margins of rivers, there are ranges of "bluffs," intersected with ravines. The bluffs are usually from fifty to one hun- dred and fifty feet high, where an extended surface of table land commences, covered with prairies and forests of various shapes and sizes. When examined minutely, there are several varieties in the surface of this State, which will be briefly specified and described. 1. Inundated Lands. I apply this term to allt hose portions, which, for some part of the year, are under water. These include por- tions of the river bottoms, and portions of the interior of large prairies, with the lakes and ponds which, for half the year or more, are without water. The term " bottom " is used throughout the West, to denote the alluvial 258 soil on the margin of rivers, usually called " intervales," in New England. Portions of this description of land are overflowed for a longer or shorter period, when the rivers are full. Probably one eighth of the bottom lands are of this description; for, though the water may not stand for any length of time, it wholly prevents settlement and cultivation, though it does not interrupt the growth of timber and vegetation. These tracts are on the bottoms of the Wabash, Ohio, Mississippi, Illinois and all the interior rivers. When the rivers rise above their ordinary height, the waters of the smaller streams, which are backed up by the freshets of the former, break over their banks, and cover all the low grounds. Here they stand for a few days, or for many weeks, especially towards the bluffs; for it is a striking fact in the geol- ogy of the western country, that all the river bottoms are higher on the margins of the streams than at some distance back. When- ever increase of population shall create a de- mand for this species of soil, the most of it can be reclaimed at comparatively small ex- pense. Its fertility will be inexhaustible, and if the waters from the rivers could be shut out by dykes or levees, the soil would be per- fectly dry. Most of the small lakes on the American bottom disappear in the summer, and leave a deposit of vegetable matter un- dergoing decomposition, or a luxuriant coat of weeds and grass. ILLINOIS. 259 As our prairies mostly lie between the streams that drain the country, the interior of the large ones are usually level. Here are formed ponds and lakes, after the winter and spring rains, which remain, to be drawn off by evaporation, or absorbed by an adhesive soil. Hence the middle of our large, level prairies are wet, and for several weeks portions of them are covered with water. To remedy this inconvenience completely, and render all this portion of soil dry and productive, only requires a ditch or drain of two or three feet deep to be cut into the nearest ravine. In many instances, a single furrow with the plough would drain many acres. At present, this species of inundated land offers no incon- venience to the people, except in the produc- tion of miasrn, and even that, perhaps, be- comes too much diluted with the atmosphere to produce mischief before it reaches the set- tlements on the borders of the prairie. Hence the inference is correct, that our inundated lands present fewer obstacles to the settle- ment and growth of the country, and can be reclaimed at much less expense, than the swamps and salt marshes of the Atlantic States. 2. River bottoms, or Alluvion. The surface of our alluvial bottoms is not entirely level. In some places it resembles alternate waves of the ocean, and looks as though the waters had left their deposit in ridges, and retired. The portion of bottom land capable of pres- 260 PECK'S GUIDE. ent cultivation, and on which the waters never stand, if, at an extreme freshet it is covered, is a soil of exhaustless fertility; a soil that for ages past has been gradually deposited by the annual floods. Its average depth on the American bottom, is from twenty to twenty- five feet. Logs of wood, and other indica- tions, are found at that depth. The soil dug from wells on these bottoms, produces luxuri- antly the first year. The most extensive and fertile tract of this description of soil in this State, is the Ameri- can bottom, a name it received when it consti- tuted the western boundary of the United States, and which it has retained ever since. It commences at the mouth of the Kaskaskia river, five miles below the town of Kaskaskia, and extends northwardly, along the Mississip- pi, to the bluffs at Alton, a distance of ninety miles. Its average width is five miles, and contains about four hundred and fifty square miles, or 288,000 acres. Opposite St. Louis, in St. Clair county, the bluffs are seven miles from the river, and filled with inexhaustible beds of coal. The soil of this bottom is an argillaceous or a silicious loam, according as clay or sand happens to predominate in its formation. On the margin of the river, and of some of its lakes, is a strip of heavy timber, with a thick undergrowth, which extends from half a mile to two miles in width; but from thence to the bluffs, it is principally prairie. It is in- ILLINOIS. 261 terspersed with sloughs, lakes and ponds, the most of which become dry in autumn. The soil of the American bottom is inex- haustibly rich. About the French towns it has been cultivated, and produced corn in succession for more than a century, without exhausting its fertilizing powers. Thejjonly objection that can be offered to this tract is its unhealthy character. This, however, has diminished considerably within eight or ten years. The geological feature noticed in the last article, that all our bottoms are higher on the margin of the stream, than towards the bluffs, explains the cause why so much standing water is on the bottom land, which, during the summer, stagnates and throws off noxious effluvia. These lakes are usually full of vegetable matter undergoing decompo- sition, and which produces large quantities of miasm. Some of the lakes are clear, with a sandy bottom, but the most are of a different character. The French settled near a lake or a river, apparently in the most unhealthy places, and yet their constitutions were little affected; and they usually enjoyed good health, though dwarfish and shriveled in their form and features. "The villages of Kaskaskia, Prairie du Rocher and Cahokia, were built up by their industry, in places where Americans would have perished. Cultivation has, no doubt, rendered this tract more salubrious than for- merly; and an increase of it, together with 262 the construction of drains and canals, will make it one of the most eligible in the States. The old inhabitants advise the emigrants not to plant corn in the immediate vicinity of their dwellings, as its rich and massive foliage pre- vents the sun from dispelling the deleterious vapors."* These lakes and ponds could be drained at a small expense, and the soil would be suscep- tible of cultivation. The early settlements of the Americans were either on this bottom, or the contiguous bluffs. Besides the American bottom, there are others that resemble it in its general charac- ter, but not in extent. In Union county, there is an extensive bottom on the borders of the Mississippi. Above the mouth of the Illinois, and along the borders of the counties of Calhoun, Pike and Adams, there are a se- ries of bottoms, with much good and elevated land; but the inundated grounds around present objections to a dense population at present. The bottoms of Illinois, where not inundat- ed, are equal in fertility, and the soil is less adhesive than most parts of the American bottom. This is likewise the character of the bottoms in the northern parts of the State. The bottoms of the Kaskaskia are generally covered with a heavy growth of timber, and in many places inundated, when the river is at its highest floods. *Beck ILLINOIS. 263 The extensive prairies adjoining, will create a demand for all this timber. The bottom lands on the Wabash are of various qualities. Near the mouth, much of it is inundated; higher up, it overflows in high freshets. These bottoms, especially the American, are the best regions in the United States for raising stock, particularly horses, cattle and swine. Seventy-five bushels of corn to the acre is an ordinary crop. The roots and worms of the soil, the acorns and other fruits from the trees, and the fish of the lakes, ac- celerate the growth of swine. Horses and cattle find exhaustless supplies of grass in the prairies; and pea-vines, buffalo-grass, wild oats, and other herbage in the timber, for summer range; and often throughout most of the winter. In all the rush bottoms, they fatten during the severe weather, on rushes. The bottom soil is not so well adapted to the production of small grain, as of rnaize or In- dian corn, on account of its rank growth, and being more subject to blast or fall down be- fore harvest, than on the uplands. 3. Prairies. Much the largest proportion is undulating, dry and extremely fertile. Other portions are level; and the soil in some cases proves to be wet; the water, not running off freely, is left to be absorbed by the soil, or evaporated by the sun. Craw-fish throw up their hillocks in this soil, and the farmer who cultivates it, will find his labors impeded by the water. 264 PECK'S GUIDE. In the southern part, that is, south of the national road leading from Terre Haute to the Mississippi, the prairies are comparative- ly small, varying in size from those of several miles in width, to those which contain only a few acres. As we go northward, they widen and extend on the more elevated ground be- tween the water-courses, to a vast distance, and are frequently from six to twelve miles in width. Their borders are by no means uni- form. Long points of timber project into the prairies, and line the banks of the streams, and points of prairie project into the timber between these streams. In many instances are copses and groves of timber, from one hundred to two thousand acres, in the midst of prairies, like islands in the ocean. This is a common feature in the country between the Sangamon river and lake Michigan, and in the northern parts of the State. The lead-mine region, both in this State and Wisconsin Ter- ritory, abound with these groves. The origin of these prairies has caused much speculation. We might as well dispute about the origin of forests, upon the assumption that the natural covering of the earth was grass. Probably one half of the earth's surface, in a state of nature, was prairies or barrens. Much of it, like our western prairies, was covered with a luxuriant coat of grass and herbage. The steppes of Tartary, the pampas of South America, the savannas of the Southern, and the prairies of the Western States, designate ILLINOIS. 265 similar tracts of country. Mesopotamia, Syria and Judea had their ancient prairies, on which the patriarchs fed their flocks. Missionaries in Burmah, and travelers in the interior of Africa, mention the same description of coun- try. Where the tough sward of the prairie is once formed, timber will not take root. De- stroy this by the plough, or by any other method, and it is soon converted into forest land. There are large tracts of country in the older settlements, where thirty or forty years since, the farmers mowed their hay, that are now covered with a forest of young timber of rapid growth. The fire annually sweeps over the prairies, destroying the grass and herbage, blackening the surface, and leaving a deposit of ashes to enrich the soil. 4. Barrens. This term, in the western dia- lect, does not indicate poor land, but a species of surface of a mixed character, uniting forest and prairie. The timber is generally scattering, of a rough and stunted appearance, interspersed with patches of hazle and brushwood, and where the contest between the fire and timber is kept up, each striving for the mastery. In the early settlements of Kentucky, much of the country below and south of Green river, presented a dwarfish and stunted growth of timber, scattered over the surface, or collect- ed in clumps, with hazle and shrubbery inter- mixed. This appearance led the first explor- 266 PECK'S GUIDE. ers to the inference that the soil itself must necessarily be poor, to produce so scanty a growth of timber, and they gave the name of barrens to the whole tract of country. Long since, it has been ascertained that this de- scription of land is amongst the most produc- tive soil in the State. The term barren has since received a very extensive application throughout the West. Like all other tracts of country, the barrens present a considerable diversity of soil. In general, however, the surface is more uneven or rolling than the prairies, and sooner degenerates into ravines and sink-holes. Wherever timber barely suf- ficient for present purposes, can be found, a person need not hesitate to settle in the barrens. These tracts are almost invariably healthy; they possess a .greater abundance of pure springs of water, and the soil is better adapted for all kinds of produce, and all de- scriptions of seasons, wet and dry, than the deeper and richer mould of the bottoms and prairies. When the fires are stopped, these barrens produce timber, at a rate of which no north- ern emigrant can have any just conception. Dwarfish shrubs, and small trees of oak and hickory are scattered over the surface, where for years they have contended with the fires for a precarious existence, while a mass of roots, sufficient for the support of large trees, have accumulated in the earth. As soon as they are protected from the ravages of the ILLINOIS. 267 annual fires, the more thrifty sprouts shoot forth, and in ten years are large enough for corn-cribs and stables. As the fires on the prairies become stopped by the surrounding settlements, and the wild grass is eaten out and trodden down by the stock, they begin to assume the character of barrens; first, hazle and other shrubs, and finally, a thicket of young timber, covers the surface. 5. Forest, or limbered Land. In general, Il- linois is abundantly supplied with timber, and were it equally distributed through the State, there would be no part in want. The appa- rent scarcity of timber where the prairie pre- dominates, is not so great an obstacle to the settlement of the country as has been suppos- ed. For many of the purposes to which tim- ber is applied, substitutes are found. The rapidity with which the young growth pushes itself forward, without a single effort on the part of man to accelerate it, and the readiness with which the prairie becomes converted into thickets, and then into a forest of young timber, shows, that, in another generation, timber will not be wanting in any part of Illinois. The kinds of timber most abundant are oak of various species, black and white walnut, ash of several kinds, elrn, sugar-maple, honey- locust, hackberry, linden, hickory, cotton- wood, pecaun, mulberry, buckeye, sycamore, wild cherry, box-elder, sassafras, and per- 268 PECK'S GUIDE. simmon. In the southern and eastern parts of the State are yellow poplar and beech; near the Ohio are cypress, and in several counties are clumps of yellow pine and cedar. On the Calamick, near the south end of lake Michigan, is a small forest of white pine. The undergrowth are red-bud, pawpaw, sumach, plum, crab-apple, grape vines, dogwood, spice- bush, green brier, hazle, &c. The alluvial soil of the rivers produces cotton-wood and sycamore timber of amazing size. For ordinary purposes there is now timber enough in most parts of the State, to say noth- ing about the artificial production of timber, which may be effected with little trouble and expense. The black locust, a native of Ohio and Kentucky, may be raised from the seed, with less labor than a_nursery of apple trees. It is of rapid growth, and, as a valuable and lasting timber, claims the attention of our farmers. It forms one of the cleanliest and most beautiful shades, and when in blossom, gives a rich prospect, and sends abroad a de- licious fragrance. 6. Knobs, Bluffs, Ravines and Sink-holes. Under these heads are included tracts of un- even country found in various parts of the State. Knobs are ridges of flint limestone, inter- mingled and covered with earth, and elevated one or two hundred feet above the common surface. This species of land is of little value for cultivation, and usually has a sprinkling of dwarfish, stunted timber, like the barrens. ILLINOIS. 269 The steep hills and natural mounds that border the alluvions have obtained the name of bluffs. Some are in long, parallel ridges, others are in the form of cones and pyramids. In some places, precipices of limestone rock, from fifty to one or two hundred feet high, form these bluffs. Ravines are formed amongst the bluffs, and often near the borders of prairies, which lead down to the streams. Sink-holes are circular depressions in the surface, like a basin. They are of various sizes, from ten to fifty feet deep, and from ten to one or two hundred yards in circum- ference. Frequently they contain an outlet for the water received by the rains. Their existence shows that the substratum is secon- dary limestone, abounding with subterraneous cavities. There are but few tracts of stony ground in the State; that is, where loose stones are scattered over the surface, and imbedded in the soil. Towards the northern part of the State, tracts of stony ground exist. Quarries of stone exist in the bluffs and in the banks of the streams and ravines throughout the State. The soil is porous, easy to cultivate, and ex- ceedingly productive. A strong team is re- quired to break up the prairies, on account of the firm, grassy sward which covers them; but when subdued, they become fine, arable lands. Rivers, fyc. This State is surrounded and 270 intersected by navigable streams. The Mis- sissippi, Ohio and Wabash rivers are on three sides; the Illinois, Kaskaskia, Sanga- mon, Muddy, and many smaller streams are entirely within its borders; and the Kankakee, Fox, Rock, and Vermilion of the Wabash run part of their course within this State. The Mississippi meanders its western border for seven hundred miles. Its principal tributaries within Illinois, are Rock, Illinois, Kaskaskia and Muddy rivers. The Illinois river com- mences at the junction of the Kankakee, which originates near the South Bend, in Indiana, and the Des Plaines, which rises in Wisconsin Territory. From their junction, the Illinois ,runs nearly a west course (receiving Fox river at Ottawa, and Vermilion near the foot of the rapids), to Hennepin, where it curves to the south and then to the south-west, re- ceiving a number of tributaries, the largest of which are Spoon river from the right and San- gamon from the left, till it reaches Naples. Here it bends gradually to the south, and continues that course till within six miles of the Mississippi, when it curves to the south- east, and finally, to nearly an eastern course. Its length (without reckoning the windings of the channel in navigation), is about two hun- dred and sixty miles, and is navigable for steam-boats, at a moderate stage of water, to the foot of the rapids. The large streams on the eastern side of the State are Iroquois, a tributary to the Kankakee, Vermilion of the ILLINOIS. 271 Wabash, which enters that river in Indiana, Embarras, that has its source near that of the Kaskaskia, runs south-easterly, and enters the Wabash, nine miles below Vincennes, and Little Wabash, near its mouth. Along the Ohio, the only streams deserving note are the Saline and Bay creeks, and Cash river, the last of which enters the Ohio six miles above its confluence with the Mississippi. Productions. These are naturally classed into mineral, animal and vegetable. Minerals. The northern portion of Illinois is inexhaustibly rich in mineral productions, while coal, secondary limestone, and sand- stone, are found in every part. Iron ore has been found in the southern parts of the State, and is said to exist in con- siderable quantities in the northern parts. Native copper, in small quantities, has been found on Muddy river, in Jackson county, and back of Harrisonville, in the bluffs of Monroe county. Crystallized gypsum has been found in small quantities in St. Clair county. Quartz crystals exist in Gallatin county. Silver is supposed to exist in St. Clair county, two miles from Rock Spring, from whence Silver creek derives its name. In early times a shaft was sunk here, by the French, and tradition tells of large quantities of the precious metals being obtained. In the southern part of the State, several sections of land have been reserved from sale, 272 on account of the silver ore they are supposed to contain. Lead is found in vast quantities in the northern part of Illinois, and the adjacent Territory. Here are the richest lead mines hitherto discovered on the globe. This por- tion of country lies principally north of Rock river and south of the Wisconsin. Du- buque's and other rich mines, are west of the Mississippi. Native copper, in large quantities, exists in this region, especially at the mouth of Plum creek, and on the Peek-a-ton-o-kee, a branch of Rock river. The following is a list of the principal dig- gings in that portion of the lead-mine region that lies between Rock river and the Wiscon- sin, embracing portions of Illinois State, and Wisconsin Territory. Some of these diggings are, probably relinquished, and many new ones commenced: Apple creek, GALENA and vicinity, Cave diggings, Bunco nibe, Natchez, Hardscrabble, New diggings, Gratiot's Grove, Spulburg, W. S. Hamilton's, Cotttle's, McNutt's, Menomonee creek, Plattsville, CASSVILLE and vicinity, Madden's, Mineral point, Dodgeville, Worke's diggings, Brisbo's, Blue mounds, Prairie springs, Hammett & Campbell's, Morrison's; and many others. ILLINOIS. 273 Amount of Lead manufactured. For many years the Indians, and some of the French hunters and traders, had been accustomed to dig lead in these regions. They never pene- trated much below the surface, but obtained considerable quantities of the ore which they sold to the traders. In 1823, the late Colonel James Johnson, (brother to the Hon. R. M. Johnson,) of Great Crossings, Kentucky, obtained a lease from the United States government, and made arrangements to prosecute the business of smelting, with considerable force, which he did the following season. This attracted the attention of enterprising men in Illinois, Mis- souri, and other States. Some went on in 1826, more followed in 1827, and in 1828 the country was almost literally filled with miners, smelters, merchants, speculators, gamblers, and every description of character. Intelli- gence, enterprise and virtue were thrown in the rnidst of dissipation, gaming, and every species of vice. Such was the crowd of ad- venturers in 1829, to this hitherto almost unknown and desolate region, that the lead business was greatly overdone, and the mar- ket for a while nearly destroyed. Fortunes were made almost upon the turn of the spade, and lost with equal facility. The business has revived, and is profitable. Exhaustless qnantities of mineral exist here, over a tract of country two hundred miles in extent. The following table shows the amount of 12* 274 PECK S GUIDE. lead made annually at these diggings, from 1821, to September 30, 1835: Jlmount of Lead manufactuTed. Pounds. From 1821, to Sept. 1823, 335,130 For the year ending Sept. 30, 1824, 175,220 1825,. . . . 664,530 1826, 958,842 " 1827,. . . . 5,182,180 " 1828,. . . .11,105,810 1829,. .. .13,344,150 1830, 8,323,993 " 1831,. . . . 6,381,900 1832, 4,281,876 " 1833,. . . . 7,941,792 ' 1834,. . . . 7,971,579 " 1835, .... 3,754,290 Total, 70,420,357 The rent, accruing to government, for the same period, is a fraction short of six millions of pounds. The government formerly receiv- ed ten per cent, in lead, for rent: now it is six per cent. A part of the mineral land in Wisconsin Territory has been surveyed and brought into market, which will add greatly to the stability and prosperity of the mining business. Coal. Bituminous coal abounds in Illinois. It may be seen, frequently, in the ravines and gullies, and in the points of bluffs. Exhaust- less beds of this article exist in the bluffs of St. Clair county, bordering on the American bottom, of which large quantities are trans- ported to St. Louis, for fuel. There is scarce- ILLINOIS. 275 ly a county in the State, but what can furnish coal, in reasonable quantities. Large beds are said to exist near the Vermilion of the Il- linois, and in the vicinity of the rapids of the latter. Jlgatized Wood. A petrified tree, of black walnut, was found in the bed of the river Des Plaines, about forty rods above its, junction with the Kankakee, imbedded in a horizontal position, in a stratum of sandstone. There is fifty-one and a half feet of the trunk visible; eighteen inches in diameter at its smallest end, and probably three feet at the other end. Muriate of Soda, or common salt. This is found in various parts of the State, held in solution in the springs. The mauufacture of salt, by boiling and evaporation, is carried on in Gallatin county, twelve miles west-north- west from Shawneetown; in Jackson county, near Brownsville; and in Vermilion county, near Danville. The springs and land are owned by the State, and the works leased. A coarse freestone, much used in building, is dug from quarries near Alton, on the Mis- sissippi, where large bodies exist. Scattered over the surface of our prairies, are large masses of rock, of granatic forma- tion, roundish in form, usually called by the people, lost rocks. They will weigh from one thousand to ten or twelve thousand pounds, are entirely detached, and frequently are found several miles distant from any quarry. Nor has there ever been a quarry of granite 276 PECK'S GUIDE. discovered in the State. These stones are denominated bowlders, in mineralogy; they usually He on the surface, or are partially im- bedded in the soil of our prairies, which is unquestionably of diluvial formation. How they came here is a question of difficult solu- tion. Medicinal waters are found in different parts of the State. These are chiefly sulphur springs and chalybeate waters. There is said to be one well in the southern part of the State, strongly impregnated with the sulphate of magnesia or Epsom salts, from which con- siderable quantities have been made for sale, by simply evaporating the water, in a kettle, over a common fire. There are several sulphur springs in Jef- ferson county, to which persons resort for health. Vegetable Productions. The principal trees and shrubs of Illinois have been noticed under the head of forest or timbered land. Of oak there are several species, as over-cup, burr- oak, swamp or water oak, white oak, red or Spanish oak, post oak and black oak of seve- ral varieties, with the black-jack, a dwarfish gnarled-looking tree, excellent for fuel, but good for nothing else. The black walnut is much used for building materials and cabinet work, and sustains a fine polish. In most parts of the State, grape-vines, in- digenous to the country, are abundant, which ILLINOIS. 277 yield grapes that might advantageously be made into excellent wine. Foreign vines are susceptible of easy cultivation. These are cultivated to a considerable extent, at Vevay, Switzerland county, Indiana, and at New Harmony, on the Wabash. The indigenous vines are prolific, and produce excellent fruit. They are found in every variety of soil; in- terwoven in every thicket in the prairies and barrens; and climbing to the tops of the very highest trees on the bottoms. The French, in early times, made so much wine as to ex- port some to France; upon which the proper authorities prohibited the introduction of wine from Illinois, lest it might injure the sale of that staple article of the kingdom. I think the act was passed by the Board of Trade, in 1774. The editor of the Illinois Magazine remarks, "We know one gentleman who made twenty-seven barrels of wine in a single season, from the grapes gathered with but little labor, in his immediate neighborhood." The wild plum is found in every part of the State ; but in most instances the fruit is too sour for use, unless for preserves. Crab- apples are equally prolific, and make fine pre- serves, with about double their bulk of sugar. Wild cherries are equally productive. The persimmon is a delicious fruit, after the frost has destroyed its astringent properties. The black mulberry grows in most parts, and is used for the feeding of silk-worms, with suc- cess. They appear to thrive and spin as well 278 as on the Italian mulberry. The gooseberry, strawberry and blackberry, grow wild and in great profusion. Of nuts, the hickory, black walnut and pecaun, deserve notice. The last is an oblong, thin-shelled, delicious nut, that grows on a large tree, a species of the hick- ory (the Carya olivceformis of Nuttall). The pawpaw grows on the bottoms and rich, tim- bered uplands, and produces a large, pulpy and luscious fruit. Of domestic fruits, the apple and peach are chiefly cultivated. Pears are tolerably plenty in the French settle- ments, and quinces are cultivated with suc- cess by some Americans. Apples are easily cultivated, and are very productive. The trees can be made to bear fruit to considera- ble advantage, in seven years, from the seed. Many varieties are of fine flavor, and grow to a large size. I have measured apples, the growth of St. Clair county, that exceeded thir- teen inches in circumference. Some of the early American settlers provided orchards; they now reap the advantages. But a large proportion of the population of the frontiers are content without this indispensable article in the comforts of a yankee farmer. Cider is made in small quantities in the old settle- ments. In a few years, a supply of this bev- erage can be had in most par,ts of Illinois. Peach trees grow with great rapidity, and decay proportionally soon. From ten to fif- teen years may be considered the life of this tree. Our peaches are delicious, but they ILLINOIS. 279 sometimes fail, by being destroyed in the germ, by winter frosts. The bud swells pre- maturely. Garden vegetables can be produced here in vast profusion, and of excellent quality. That we have few of the elegant and well dressed gardens of gentlemen in the old States, is admitted; which is not owing to climate, or soil, but to the want of leisure and means. Our Irish potatoes, pumpkins and squashes are inferior, but not our cabbages, peas, beets or onions. A cabbage-head, two or three feet in diam- eter, including the leaves, is no wonder on this soil. Beets often exceed twelve inches in circumference. Parsnips will penetrate our light, porous soil, to the depth of two or three feet. The cultivated vegetable productions in the field, are maize or Indian corn, wheat, oats, barley, buckwheat, Irish potatoes, sweet po- tatoes, turnips, rye for horse-feed and distil- leries, tobacco, cotton, hemp, flax, the castor bean, and every other production common to the Middle States. Maize is a staple production. No farmer can live without it, and hundreds raise little else. This is chiefly owing to the ease with which it is cultivated. Its average produce is fifty bushels to the acre. I have oftentimes seen it produce seventy-five bushels to the acre, and in a few instances, exceed one hundred. 280 PECK'S GUIDE. Wheat yields a good and sure crop, espe- cially in the counties bordering on the Illinois river. It weighs upwards of sixty pounds per bushel; and flour from this region has prefer- ence in the New Orleans market, and passes better inspection than the same article from Ohio or Kentucky. In 1825, the weevil, for the first time, made its appearance in St. Clair and the adjacent counties, and has occasionally renewed its visits since. Latterly, some fields have been injured by the fly. A common but slovenly practice amongst our farmers, is to sow wheat amongst the standing corn in September, and cover it, by running a few furrows with the plough be- tween the rows of corn. The dry stalks are then cut down in the spring, and left on the ground. Even by this imperfect mode, fifteen or twenty bushels of wheat to the acre, are produced. But where the ground is duly pre- pared by fallowing, and the seed put in at the proper time, a good crop, averaging from twen- ty-five to thirty-five bushels per acre rarely fails to be procured. The average price of wheat, at present, is a dollar per bushel, varying a little according to the competition of mills and facilities to market. In many instances a single crop of wheat will more than pay th'e expenses of purchasing the land, fencing, breaking the prairie, seed, putting in the crop, harvesting, threshing and taking it to market. Wheat is ILLINOIS. 281 now frequently sown on the prairie land, as a first crop, and a good yield obtained. Flouring-mills are now in operation in many of the wheat-growing counties. Steam power is getting into extensive use, both for sawing timber and manufacturing flour. It is to be regretted, that so few of our farmers have erected barns for the security of their crops. No article is more profitable, and really more indispensable to a farmer, than a large barn. Oats have not been much raised till lately. They are very productive, often yielding from forty to fifty bushels on the acre, and usually sell for twenty-five cents per bushel. The demand, for the use of stage and travelers' horses, is increasing. Htmp is an indigenous plant, in the south- ern part of this State, as it is in Missouri. It has riot been extensively cultivated; but wher- ever tried, is found very productive, and of an excellent quality. It might be made a staple of the country. Tobacco, though a filthy and noxious weed, which no human being ought ever to use, can be produced in any quantity, and of the first quality, in Illinois. Cotton, for many years, has been success- fully cultivated in this State, for domestic use, and some for exportation. Two or three spinning-factories are in operation, and pro- duce cotton yarn, from the growth of the coun- try, with promising success. This branch of 13 282 business admits of enlargement, and invites the attention of eastern manufacturers with small capital. Much of the cloth made in families who have emigrated from States south of the Ohio, is from the cotton of the country. Flax is produced and of a tolerable quality, but not equal to that of the Northern States. It is said to be productive and good in the northern counties. Barley yields well, and is a sure crop. The palma chrisii, or castor-oil bean, is pro- duced in considerable quantities, in Madison, Randolph and other counties, and large quan- tities of oil are expressed and sent abroad. Sweet potatoes are a delicious root, which yields abundantly, especially on the American bottom and rich, sandy prairies. But little has been done to introduce culti- vated grasses. The prairie grass looks coarse and unsavory, and yet our horses and cattle will thrive well on it. To produce timothy with success, the ground must be well cultivated in the sum- mer, either by an early crop, or by fallowing, and the seed sown about the twentieth of Sep- tember, at the rate of ten or twelve quarts of clean seed to the acre, and lightly brushed in. If the season is in any way favorable, it will get a rapid start before winter. By the last week in June, it will produce .two tons per acre, of the finest hay. It then requires a dressing of stable or yard-manure, and occa- sionally the turf may be scratched with a har- ILLINOIS. 283 row, to prevent the roots from binding too hard. By this process, timothy meadows may be made and preserved. There are meadows in St. Clair county, which have yielded heavy crops of hay in succession, for several years, and bid fair to continue, for an indefinite pe- riod. Cattle, and especially horses, should never be permitted to run in meadows, in Il- linois. The fall grass may be cropped down by calves and colts. There is but little more labor required to produce a crop of timothy, than a crop of oats; and as there is not a stone or a pebble to interrupt, the soil may be turned up every third or fourth year, for corn, and afterwards laid down to grass again. A species of blue grass is cultivated by some farmers, for pastures. If well set, and not eaten down in summer, blue grass pas- tures may be kept green and fresh till late in autumn, or even in the winter. The English spire-grass has been cultivated with success in the W abash county. Of the trefoil, or clover, there is but little cultivated. A prejudice exists against it, as it is imagined to injure horses, by affecting the glands of the mouth, and causing them to slaver. It grows luxuriantly, and may be cut for hay, early in June. The white clover comes in naturally, where the ground has been cultivated and thrown by, or along the sides of old roads and paths. Clover pastures would be excellent for swine. 284 PECK'S GUIDE. Animals. Of wild animals there are several species. The buffalo is not found on this side of the Mississippi, nor within several hundred miles of St. Louis. This animal once roamed at large over the prairies of Illinois, and was found in plenty, thirty-five years since. Wolves, panthers and wild-cats still exist on the frontiers and through the unsettled por- tions of the country, and annoy the farmer, by destroying his sheep and pigs. Deer are also very numerous, and are val- uable, particularly to that class of our popula- tion which has been raised to frontier habits; the flesh affording them food, and the skins clothing. Fresh venison-hams usually sell for twenty-five cents each, and when properly cured, are a delicious article. Many of the frontier people dress the skins and make them into pantaloons and hunting-shirts. These articles are indispensable to all who have oc- casion to travel, in viewing land, or for any other purpose beyond the settlements, as cloth garments, in the shrubs and vines, would soon be in strings. It is a novel and pleasing sight to a stran- ger, to see the deer, in flocks of eight, ten, or fifteen in number, feeding on the grass of the prairies, or bounding away, at the sight of a traveler. The brown bear is also an inhabitant of the unsettled parts of this State, although he is continually retreating before the advance of civilization. ILLINOIS. 285 Foxes, racoons, opossums, gophars and squir- rels are also numerous, as are muskrats, otters, and occasionally beaver, about our rivers and lakes. Racoons are very common, and fre- quently do mischief, in the fall, to the corn. Opossums sometimes trouble the poultry. The gophar is a singular little animal, about the size of a squirrel, which burrows in the ground, and is seldom seen; but its 'works make it known. It labors during the night, in digging subterranean passages in the rich soil of the prairies, and throws up hillocks of fresh earth, within a few feet distance from each other, and from twelve to eighteen inch- es in height. The gray and fox squirrels often do mischief in the cornfields, and the hunting of them makes fine sport for the boys. Common rabbits exist in every thicket, and annoy nurseries and young orchards exceed- ingly. The fence around a nursery must al- ways be so close as to shut out rabbits; and young apple trees must be secured, at the ap- proach of winter, by tying straw or corn-stalks around their bodies, for two or three feet in height, or the bark will be stripped off by these mischievous animals. Wild horses are found ranging the prairies and forests in some parts of the State. They are small in size, of the Indian or Canadian breed and very hardy. They are found chief- ly in the lower end of the American bottom, near the junction of the Kaskaskia and Mis- 286 sissippi rivers, called the point. They are the offspring of the horses brought there by the first settlers, and which were suffered to run at large. The Indians of the West have many such horses, which are commonly called In- dian ponies. Domestic Jlnimals. These are the same as are found in other portions of the United States. But little has been done to improve the breed of horses among us. Our common riding or working-horses average about fifteen hands in height. They are much more used here than in the Eastern States, and many a farmer keeps half a dozen or more. Much of the traveling throughout the western coun- try, both by men and women, is performed on horseback; and a large proportion of the land carriage is by means of large wagons, with from four to six stout horses for a team. A great proportion of the ploughing is performed by horse-labor. Horses are more subject to diseases in this country than in the old States, which is thought to be occasioned by bad management, rather than by the climate. A good farm-horse can be purchased for fifty dollars. Riding or carriage-horses, of a su- perior quality, cost from seventy-five to eighty dollars. Breeding-mares are profitable stock for every farmer to keep, as their annual ex- pense in keeping is but trifling: their labor is always needed, and their colts, when grown, find a ready market. Some farmers keep a stallion and eight or ten brood-mares. ILLINOIS. 287 Mules are brought into Missouri, and find their way to Illinois, from the Mexican do- minions. They are a hardy animal, grow to a good size, and are used by some, both for labor and riding. Our neat cattle are usually inferior in size to those of the old States. This is owing entirely to bad management. Our cows are not pen- ned up in pasture fields, but suffered to run at large over the commons. Hence all the calves are preserved, without respect to qual- ity, to entice the cows homeward at evening. In autumn their food is very scanty, and during the winter they are permitted to pick up a precarious subsistence amongst fifty or a hundred head of cattle. With such manage- ment, is it surprising that our cows and steers are much inferior to those of the old States? And yet, our beef is the finest in the world. It bears the best inspection of any in the New Orleans market. By the first of June, and often by the middle of May, our young cattle on the prairies are fit for market. They do not yield large quantities of tallow, but the fat is well proportioned throughout the carcass, and the meat tender and delicious. By infe- riority, then, I mean the size of our cattle in general, and the quantity and quality of the milk of cows. Common cows, if suffered to hose their milk in August, become sufficiently fat for table use by October. Farrow-heifers and steers are good beef, and fit for the knife at any period after the middle of May. Nothing is more 288 PECK'S GUIDE. common than for an Illinois farmer to go among his stock, select, shoot down, and dress a line beef, whenever fresh meat is needed. This is often divided out amongst the neigh- bors, who, in turn, kill and share likewise. It is common at camp and other large meetings, to kill a beef and three or four hogs for the subsistence of friends from a distance. Steers from three years old or more, have been purchased in great numbers in Illinois, by drovers from Ohio. Cattle are sometimes sent in flat-boats down the Mississippi and Ohio, for the New Orleans market. We can hardly place limits upon the amount of beef cattle that Illinois is capable of pro- ducing. A farmer calls himself poor, with a hundred head of horned cattle around him. A cow in the spring is worth from seven to ten or fifteen dollars. Some of the best quality will sell higher. And let it be distinctly un- derstood, once for all, that a poor man can always purchase horses, cattle, hogs, and pro- visions, for labor, either by the day, month, or job. Cows, in general, do not produce the same amount of milk, nor of as rich a quality as in older States. Something is to be attributed to the nature, of our pastures, and the warmth of our climate, but more to causes already assigned. If ever a land was characterized justly, as " flowing with milk and honey," it is Illinois and the adjacent States. From the springing of the grass till September, butter is made in great profusion. It sells at that ILLINOIS. 289 season, in market, for about ten cents. With proper care, it can be preserved in tolerable sweetness for winter use. Late in autumn and early in the winter, sometimes butter is not plenty. The feed becomes dry, the cows range further off, and do not come up readily for milking, and dry up. A very little trouble would enable a farmer to keep three or four good cows in fresh milk at the season most needed. Cheese is made by many families, especial- ly in the counties bordering on the Illinois river. Good cheese sells for eight and some- times ten cents, and finds a ready market. Swine. This species of stock may be called a staple in the provision of Illinois. Thou- sands of hogs are raised without any expense, except a few breeders to start with, and a little attention in hunting them on the range, and keeping them tame. Pork that is made in a domestic way, and fatted on corn, will sell from three to four and five dollars, according to size, quality, and the time when it is delivered. With a pasture of clover or blue grass, a well-filled corn crib, a dairy, and slop barrel, and the usual care that a New Englander bestows on his pigs, pork may be raised from the sow, fatted, and killed, and weigh from two hundred to two hundred and fifty, within twelve months; and this method of raising pork would be profit- able. Few families in the West and South put up their pork in salt pickle. Their method is to 290 salt it sufficiently to prepare it for smoking, and then make bacon of hams, shoulders, and middlings or broadsides. The price of bacon, taking the hog round, is about seven and eight cents. Good hams command eight and ten cents in the St. Louis market. Stock hogs, weighing from sixty to one hundred pounds, alive, usually sell from one to two dollars per head. Families consume much more meat in the West, in proportion to numbers, than in the old States. Sheep do very well in this country, especial- ly in the older settlements, where the grass has become short, and they are less molested by wolves. Poultry is raised in great profusion; and large numbers of fowls taken to market. Ducks, geese, swans, and many other aquatic birds, visit our waters in the spring. The small lakes and sloughs are often literally covered with them. Ducks, and some of the rest, frequently stay through the summer and breed. The prairie fowl is seen in great numbers on the prairies in the summer, and about the cornfields, in the winter. This is the grouse of the New York market. They are easily taken in the winter. Partridges (the quail of New England), are taken with nets, in the winter, by hun- dreds in a day, and furnish no trifling item in the luxuries of the city market. Bees. These laborious and useful insects, are found in the trees of every forest. ILLINOIS. 291 Many of the frontier people make it a promi- nent business, after the frost has killed the vegetation, to hunt them for the honey and wax, both of which find a ready market. Bees are profitable stock for the farmer, and are kept to a considerable extent. Silk-ivorms are raised by a few persons. They are capable of being produced to any extent, and fed on the common black mulberry of the country. Salt. The principal salines of this State have been mentioned under the head of min- erals. The principal works are at Gallatin, Big Muddy, and Vermilion salines. Steam Mills for flouring and sawing are be- coming very common, and in general are profitable. Some are now in operation with four run of stones, and which manufacture one hundred barrels of flour in a day. Mills propelled by steam, water, and animal power, are constantly increasing. Steam mills will become numerous, particularly in the southern and middle portions of the tate; and it is deserving remark, that, while these portions are not well supplied with durable water power, they contain, in the timber of the forest, and the inexhaustible bodies of bitumi- nous coal, abundant supplies of fuel; while the northern portion, though deficient in fuel, has abundant water power. A good steam saw-mill with two saws, can be built for $1500; and a steam flouring-mill with two run of stones, elevators and other apparatus com- plete, and of sufficient force to turn out forty 292 or fifty barrels of flour per day, may be built for from $3500 to $5000. Ox-mills, on an in- clined plane, and horse-mills, by draught, are common through the country. Castor oil. Considerable quantities of this article have been manufactured in Illinois, from the palma christi, or castor-bean. One bushel of the beans will make nearly two gal- lons of the oil. There are five or six castor- oil presses in the State; in Madison, Randolph, Edwards, and perhaps in other counties. Mr. Adams, of Edwardsville, in 1825, made five hundred gallons, which then sold at the rate of $2 50 per gallon; in 1826, he made eight hundred gallons; in 1827, one thousand gal- lons, the price then, $1 75; in 1828, one thousand eight hundred gallons, price $1 : in 1830, he started two .presses, and made up- wards of ten thousand gallons, which sold for from seventy-five to eighty-seven cents per gallon; in 1831, about the same quantity. That and the following season being unfavor- able for the production of the bean, there has been a falling off in the quantity. The amount manufactured in other parts of the State has probably exceeded that made by Mr Adams. Lead. In Jo Daviess county are eight or ten furnaces for smelting lead. The amount of this article made annually at the minus of the Upper Mississippi, has been given under the head of minerals. Manufactures. In the infancy of a State, little can be expected in machinery and manu- factures. And in a region so much deficient ILLINOIS. 293 in water power as some parts of Illinois are, still less may be looked for; yet Illinois is not entirely deficient in manufacturing enterprise. There is in this State, as in all the West- ern States, a large amount of domestic manu- factures made by families. All the trades, nedful to a new country, are in existence. Carpenters, wagon-makers, cabinet-makers, blacksmiths, tanners, &c., may be found in every county and town, and thousands more are wanted. There has been a considerable falling off in the manufacture of whisky within a few years, and it is sincerely hoped by thousands of our citizens that this branch of business, so de- cidedly injurious to the morals and happiness of communities and individuals, will entirely decline. Several companies, for manufactur- ing purposes, have been incorporated by the legislature. Boat-huilding will soon become a branch of business in this State. Some steam-boats have been constructed already within this State, along the Mississippi. It is thought that Alton and Chicago are convenient sites for this business. Civil Divisions. There are sixty-six coun- ties laid off in this State, fifty-nine of which are organized for judicial purposes. The counties of Will, Whiteside, Kane, Ogle, McHenry and Winnebago were laid off at the session of the legislature, Jan. 1836. The county of Will was formed from portions of Cook, Lasalle and Iroquois, with the town of 294 PECK S GUIDE. Juliet, near the junction of the Kankakee and Des Plaines, for its seat of justice. In this State there are no civil divisions into townships, -as in Ohio, Indiana, &c. The township tracts of six miles square, in the public surveys, relate exclusively to the land system. The State is divided into three dis- tricts to elect representatives to Congress, and into six circuits for judicial purposes. Tabular View of the Counties. Counties. Date of Formation. |j r/f i > c |f Is Soats of Justice. Bearing and distance frm Vandalia. Acldtns, Alexander,. . . . Bond 1825 1819 1817 1825 1833 1819 ]824 18-24 1816 1830 18M 1823 1814 1831 1821 1818 1825 1812 1821 1821 1825 1825 1833 1816 8-20 375 360 260 864 500 620 500 378 1248 J* 200 486 684 850 590 828 912 ?s r 576 7?8 219 519 151 102 451 172 414 519 680 528 788 239 129 665 759 607 1312 1360 460 357 67 354 7042 2050 3580 1091 1045 "3413 1648 2648 3.54(1 5125 98 !6 6668 2T>r> I05" 3fi38 5551 5917 8660 12 '74 2877 3249 118 1164 2783 175 n.w. 135 a. 19 w.s.w. 134 w.n.w. 103 7t.7l.C- 82e.n.e. 50 $ c. 28 s.s.w. 100 e. Unity Greenville, Gilead Calhonn, Champaign, .. Clark Urbanna, Darwin,* or 1 Marshall, j "" .Mavsville, Ciirlyle Clay, Clinton . Crawford, Palestine, Coles, Cook. Ed?ur, 2R8 71.71.8. 100 n.e. 96 s.e. 29 e.n.e.. 83 s. 135 re. n.w. 100.*..e. 90 w.n.w. 76s.s e. 180 n.w. 210 ra. n.w. 165 n.n.e. 96 s.s.w. P.riV-' Kflwariln, Effingham, VANDALIA, Franklin, LP Wigtown, Equality, Carrolltun Gallatin, Greeno Hamilton, Hancock, Henry, (not or- ganized, . . . . Iroquoii5, Jackson, McLeansboro', . . . (Not established),. Brownsville, * It is expected the seat of justice of Clark county will be removed to Marshall, ten miles north-west from Darwin, and on the national road. The distance is computed to Marshall. ILLINOIS. 295 Counties. Date of Formation. |j gl I Population in 1830. Seats of Justice. Boaring and distance frm Vandalia. Jasper, 1831 1819 1627 1812 1836 18->5 1831 1821- 1829 18J2 1829 1823 1825 J836 1830 1825 1816 1821 18-3 1836 1825 1827 182! 1816 1825 1795 1831 1821 1825 1897 1795 1827 1818 1826 1824 1825 1818 1819 1815 1836 1836 1836 i288 576 455 t 492 48Q 316 792, 180 5 ysi 1404; 292 7501307 720 624 576 37--> 576 1 304 19I6 1 493 558 3i.\ 449 960? 475 1.502717 648 2>3 446 273 800 657 r.Tii 41-1 1340 383 540 814 377! 83 12342219 864' 680 1080 63fi 1030 1183 mo. 433 396 515 1000 1025 180 441 900 2f>6 65H 333 576 471 516 977 415 3350 4038 2166 160(1 4754 4450 302'J 9016 55.54 2844 2883 5311 497 2(560 3740 19:214 3220 2>0! 6037 37of: 4021 5695 616| 17573; 6351| 48181 90551 58.51) 41561 8 03 3010 2623 3'92 2939 6489 Newton, Mount Vernon,... jfalena, 60 e. 48 s.s.e. 300 n n.w. 120s. 18=2 n.n.w. 187 n. 88 e.s.e. 75ra. 58 w. 55 w.n.w. "5 s.s.e. 155 n.w. 1^0 TO. 209 n.w. 72 s.w. 28 n.w. 91 n.w. 141 n.n.w. 71 ss.w. 126 w.n.w. 1:0 s.s.e. 180 n. 90 s.s.w. -00 n.w. 79 n.n.w. 128 n.w. 40 n.n.e. 64 w.s.w. 131 n. 120s. 135 n.e. 95 s.e. 184 n.w. 48 s.s.w. 76 s e. 103 s.e. Jefferson, . . t ^. Jo Daviessjty^i Kane,J inoxville, Knux, Lasalle Lawrence, .... Macon, Lawrpncevillo, ... Dec'iti'r Madison, Macoupen,.... Kdwardsville, .... Jiirlinville, McDnnough, .. McHemy,!.... McLean, ..... Mercer .Macoinh, iJloomington, Xew Boston, Waterloo, Monroe, Montgomery, . . Hillsboro' facksonvillfi, .... Peoria, Of\et ' Perry ^inckneyville,. . . . Pitt-h'"ld Pike Pope, Tdlconda, icnnepin Putnam, Randolph, Rock Island, .. Sansrimon,.... Schnyler, Sheldv, K iskaskia ^tephenson, Springfield, Rushvillp, "hdbwille, BeHvlfle, Ft. Clair, Tazewell. Union Joncsboro', Danville, Vermilion Mount Carmel,... Warren, Washington, .. Wayne, Wh'ite, Whiteside,! . . . Will,}........ Nashville ... . Fairfield, Juliet, Winnebago,. . f These counties have been recently subdivided, and their super- ficial area is not known. J These counties were formed January, 1836, and wore taken from Jo Daviess, Lasalle, Cook and Iroquois. The seats of justice not es- tablished, and much of the land unsurveyed, though rapidly settling. 296 PECK'S GUIDE. The following is a sketch of each county in the State: Jldams. The streams are Bear creek and branches, Cedar, Tyrer, Mill, Fall, and Pigeon creeks, with the Mississippi river on its west- ern border. Timber various, with equal por- tions of prairie. First rate county. Alexander. In the forks of the Ohio and Mississippi, with Cash river through it. All timbered, half alluvion, some inundated at high water, lime and sandstone on the Ohio; soil, generally rich. Bond. Shoal creek and its branches through it, with Hurricane creek on the east side; proportioned into timber and prairie; rather level; second rate. Sandstone, coal, and salt springs. Calhoun. Long and narrow, in the forks of the Illinois and Mississippi; alluvial and sometimes inundated along the rivers ; broken bluffs and interior table land; good soil; prairies at the foot of the bluffs. Coal, lime and sandstone. Champaign. The streams are the heads of the Kaskaskia, Sangamon, Vermilion of Illinois, Salt Fork of the Vermilion of the Wabash, and the Embarras, all running in opposite directions. Extensive prairies, a little undulating and rich; timber in groves; many granite bowlders. Clark. North Fork of Embarras, Mill and Big creeks. Timber and prairie, second rate soil. ILLINOIS. 297 Clay. Watered by Little Wabash and tributaries. Two thirds prairie, of inferior quality, rather level and wet. Clinton. Kaskaskia river, with its tribu- taries, Crooked, Shoal, Beaver and Sugar creeks pass through it. Equally proportioned into timber and prairie. Soil, second rate; surface, a little undulating. { Cohs. The Kaskaskia, Embarras, and heads of the Little Wabash water it. Much excellent land, mu :h undulating, rich prai- rie ; some level and wet land in the south- eastern part. Timber in sufficient quanti- ties. Cook. Adjoins Lake' Michigan, and has the branches of Chicago, Des Plaines, Du Page, Au Sable and Hickory creeks. Sur- face, tolerably level; rich soil, extensive prairies, timbe^ in groves; a few swamps. Plenty of limestone, and the streams run over rocky beds. Crawford. The Wabash river on its east- ern side, with Lamotte, Hudson, Racoon and Sugar creeks. Some level prairies, rather sandy, with a full supply of timber. Edgar. Watered by Big, Clear, and Bru- lette's creeks on the eastern, and Little Em- barras on its western side. Southern and eastern sides timbered; northern and western sides much prairie; some undulating, some level and rather wet. Grand View is a delightful tract of country. Edwards. The Little Wabash on its west- 13* 298 ern, and Bon Pas on its eastern border. vSeveral prairies, high, undulating, and bound- ed by heavy timber. Soil, second quality. Effingham. Watered by the Little Wa- bash and its tributaries; due proportion of timber and prairie; tolerably level, second rate. Fayette. Kaskaskia river, Hurricane, Hig- gens', Ramsey's and Beck's creeks. The bottom lands on the Kaskaskia low and inun- dated at high water; considerable prairie; much heavy timber; soil, second rate. Franklin. Watered by the Big Muddy and its branches, and the South Fork of Saline creek. The prairies small, fertile and level, timber plenty, soil rather sandy. Fulton. The Illinois on the south-eastern side, with Spoon river and several small creeks through it. About half heavily tim- bered, with rich, undulating prairies; streams flow over a pebbly bed; soil, first rate. Gal latin. Joins the Wabash and Ohio rivers, and has the Saline and branches run- ning through it. Soil, sandy, with sandrock, limestone, quartz crystals, excellent salines, &.c. Timber of various kinds; no prairies. Greene Has the Mississippi south, the Illinois west, with Otter, Macoupen and Apple creeks. Much excellent land, both timber and prairie, in due proportion, with abundance of lirne, and sandstone, and coal. Hamilton. Watered by branches of the Saline and Little Wabash; a large proportion, ILLINOIS. 299 timbered land; soil, second and third rate, with some swamp in the northern part. Sand- stone and some lime. Hancock. Besides the Mississippi, it has a part of Bear, Crooked, and Camp creeks; large prairies; timber along the streams; rich, first rate land. Henry Has Rock river north, with Win- nebago swamp, and its outlet or Green river, and one of the heads of Spoon river, and Edwards river interior. Some rich, undula- ting prairies and groves, with considerable wet, swampy land. Not much population. Iroquois. Kankakee, Iroquois and Sugar creek. Sand ridges and ptains; much rich prairie; some timber, but deficient. It 'is found chiefly in groves and strips along the water courses. Jackson Has the Mississippi on the south- west, and Muddy river running diagonally through it, with some of its tributaries. Some prairies in the north-eastern part, much heavy timber, some hilly and broken land, with abundance of coal, saline springs, lime and sandstone. Jasper. The Embarras runs through it, and the Muddy Fork of the Little Wabash waters its western side. Much of both the prairie and timbered land is level and rather wet; some fertile tracts. Jefferson. Watered by several branches of the Big Muddy and Little Wabash. Soil, second rate; surface, a little undulating; one 300 PECK'S GUIDE. third prairie; several sulphur and other medi- cinal springs. Jo Daviess Formerly embraced all the State north-west of Rock river, but recently divided into three or four counties. Besides the Mississippi, it has Fever river, Pekatono- kee, Apple river, arid Rush and Plum creeks. A rich county, both for agricultural and mining purposes. Timber scarce, and in groves; surface, undulating, in some places hilly; well watered by streams and springs, and has good mill sites. Copper and lead ore in abundance. Johnson. The Ohio on the south, Cash river and Big Bay creek, and a series of lakes or ponds interior. A timbered country, toler- ably level; soil sandy, with considerable quan- tities of second rate laud. Knox. Watered by Henderson and Spoon rivers, and their tributaries. The prairies large, moderately undulating, and first quality of soil, with excellent timber along the water courses. Lasalle. Besides the Illinois river, which passes through it, Fox river, Big and Little Vermilion, Crow, Au Sable, Indian, Mason, Tomahawk, and other creeks, water this county. They generally run on a bed of sand or lime rock, and have but little alluvial bot- tom lands. Deficient in timber, but has an abundance of rich, undulating prairie, beau- tiful groves, abundant water privileges, and extensive coal banks. ILLINOIS. 301 Lawrence. The \Vabash east, Fox river west, and Embarras and Racoon through it. An equal proportion of timber and prairie, some excellent, other parts inferior, and some bad, miry swamps, called "purgato- ries." Macon. South-east portion, watered by the Kaskaskia and tributaries; the middle and northern portions by the North Fork of San- gamon, and the north-western part by Salt creek. The prairies large, and in their inte- rior, level and wet, toward* the timber, dry, undulating and rich. Madison. The Mississippi lies west; Ca- hokia and Silver creeks, and Wood river, run through it. A part of this county lies in the American bottom, and is a rich and level allu- vion; but much of the county is high, undu- lating, and proportionably divided into timber and prairie. Well supplied with stone quar- ries and coal banks. Macoupen. The Macoupen creek and branches water its central and western parts, the Cahokia, the south-eastern, and the heads of Wood river and Piasau, the south-western parts. A large proportion of the county is excellent soil, well proportioned into timber and prairie, and slightly undulating. Marion. W T atered by the East Fork, and Crooked creek, tributaries of Kaskaskia river, on its western, and heads of Skillet Fork of Little Wabash on its eastern sides. Much of the land of second quality, slightly undulating, 302 PECK'S GUIDE. about one third timbered, some of the prai- rie land level, and inclined to be wet. McDonougk. Crooked creek and its branches water most of the county. The eastern side, for eight or ten miles in width, is prairie, the western and middle parts suitably divided between prairie and forest land; surface, moderately undulating; soil, very rich. McLean. One third of the eastern, and a portion of the northern side, is one vast prai- rie. The timber is beautifully arranged in groves; the surface moderately undulating, and the soil dry and rich. The head waters of the Sangamon, Mackinau, and the Ver- milion of the Illinois, are in this county. Its minerals are quarries of lime and sandstone, and granite bowlders, scattered over the prairies. Mercer Has the Mississippi on the west, and Pope and Edwards rivers interior, along which are fine tracts of timber; in its middle and eastern parts are extensive prairies; sur- face, generally undulating; soil, rich. Monroe. Watered by Horse, Prairie de Long, and Fountain creeks. The American bottom adjacent to the Mississippi is rich allu- vion, and divided into timber and prairie. On the bluffs are ravines and sink-holes, with broken land. Further interior is a mixture of timber and prairie. Abundance of limestone, coal, and some copper. Montgomery. Watered by Shoal creek ILLINOIS. 303 and branches, and Hurricane Fork. Surface, high and undulating, and proportionately di- vided into timber and prairie. Soil, second rate. Morgan. A first rate county, well pro- portioned into prairie and forest lands, much of the surface undulating; watered by the Illi- nois river and Mauvaise-terre, Indian, Plum, Walnut, and Sandy creeks, and heads of Apple creek. Coal, lime and freestone. Peoria. Watered by the Illinois, Kicka- poo, Copperas, Senatchwine, and heads of Spoon river. Surface, moderately rolling, rich soil, and proportionably divided into prairie and forest. Perry. Streams; Big Beaucoup, and Little Muddy; one third prairie, tolerably level, and second rate soil. Pike. Besides Mississippi and Illinois, which wash two sides, it has the Suycartec slough running through its western border, and navigable for steam-boats, and a number of smaller creeks. The land and surface various, much of it excellent undulating soil, some rich alluvion, inundated at high water, large tracts of table land, high, rolling, and rich, with due proportion of timber and prai- rie. A large salt spring. Pope. With the Ohio river east and south, it has Big Bay, Lusk's, and Big creeks inte- rior. A timbered region, tolerably level, ex- cept at the bluffs, with good sandy soil, and sand and limestone. 304 PECK'S GUIDE. Putnam. The Illinois runs through it, Spoon river waters its north-western part, and Bureau, Crow, Sandy, and some other streams, water its middle portions. Here are beautiful groves of timber, and rich, undulating and dry prairies, fine springs, and good mill sites. Lime, sand and freestone, and bituminous coal. A few tracts of wet prairie, with some ponds and swamps, are in the north-western part. Randolph Has the Mississippi along the western side; Kaskaskia river passes diago- nally through it: soil, of every quality, from first rate to indifferent; surface, equally as various, with rocky precipices at the termin- ation of the alluvial bottoms. Rock Island -Is at the mouth of Rock riv- er, which, with the Mississippi and some minor streams, drain the county. Rich allu- vion along the Mississippi, with much excel- lent table land, both timber and prairie inte- rior. Some wet, level prairie, south of Rock river. Sangamon. Watered by Sangamon river and its numerous branches. Much of the soil is of the richest quality, with due proportions of timber and prairie, moderately undulating, and a first rate county. Schuyler. The south-eastern side has the Illinois, the interior has Crooked and Crane creeks, and the south-west has McKee's creek. Along the Illinois is much timber, with some inundated bottom lands. Interior, there is a ILLINOIS. 305 due proportion of prairie, and timber, and rich soil, with an undulating surface. Shelby Is watered by the Kaskaskia and tributaries; has a large amount of excellent land, both timber and prairie, with good soil, moderately undulating. St. Clair. The streams are Cahokia, Prairie du Pont, Ogle's, Silver, Richland, and Prairie de Long creeks, and Kaskaskia river. The land is various, much of which is good, first and second rate, and proportionably di- vided into timber, prairie, and barrens. The minerals are lime and sandstone, and exten- sive beds of coal and shale. Tazewell. Watered by the Illinois, Mack- inau, and their tributaries. Much of the surface is undulating, soil rich; prairie pre- dominates, but considerable timber, with some broken land about the bluffs of Mackinau, and some sand ridges and swamps in the southern part of the county. Union. Watered by the Mississippi, Clear creek, the heads of Cash, and some of the small tributaries of the Big Muddy. Much of the surface is rolling and hilly, all forest land. Soil, second and third rate. Some rich alluvial bottom. Vermilion Is watered by Big and Little Vermilion of the Wabash, with large bodies of excellent timber along the streams, and rich prairies interior. Surface, undulating and dry; soil, deep, rich and calcareous. Wabash -Has Wabash river on the east, 14 306 PECK'S GUIDE. Bon Pas on the west, and some small creeks central; surface, rolling, and a mixture of timber and prairie; soil, generally second rate. Minerals; lime and sandstone. Warren. Besides the Mississippi, its prin- cipal stream is Henderson river, whirh passes through it, with Ellison, Honey, and Camp creeks. Much of the land on these streams is rich, undulating, deficient somewhat in timber, with excellent prairie. Along the Mississippi, and about the mouth of Hender- son, the land is inundated in high water. Washington Has the Kaskaskia on its north-western side, wifh Elkhorn, Little Mud- dy, Beaucoup, and Little Crooked creeks in- terior. The prairies are rather level, and in places inclined to be wet; the timber, espe- cially along the Kaskaskia, heavy. Wayne. The Little Wabash, with its trib- utaries, Elm river, and Skillet Fork, are its streams. It is proportionably interspersed with prairie and woodland, generally of second quality. Wliite. The eastern side washed by the Big Wabash, along which is a low, inundated bottom; the interior is watered by the Little Wabash and its tributaries. Some prairie, but mostly timber. Soil and surface various. Some rich bottom prairies, with sandy soil. Towns. VANDALIA is the seat of govern- ment till 1840; after which, it is to be removed to Alton, according to a vote of the people, in 1834, unless they should otherwise direct. ILLINOIS. 307 It is situated on the right bank of the Kaskas- kia river, in north latitude 39 0' 42", and fifty-eight miles in a direct line, a little north of east from Alton. The public buildings are temporary. Population, about seven hundred and fifty. Jilton. Two towns of this name are distin- guished as Alton, and Upper Alton. Alton is an incorporated town, situated on the bank of the Mississippi, two and a half miles above the mouth of the Missouri, and at the place where the curve of the Mississippi penetrates the furthest into Illinois, eighteen miles be- low the mouth of the Illinois river. For situation, commerce, business of all kinds, health, and rapidity of growth, it far exceeds any other town on the east bank of the Mis- sissippi, above New Orleans. The population is about two thousand. The commercial business done here is already immense, and extends through more than half of Illinois, besides a large trade on the western side of the Mississippi. Five large mercantile estab- lishments do wholesale business only, four do wholesale and retail, besides four wholesale and retail groceries, and fifteen or twenty retail stores and groceries; and yet many more mercantile houses are necessary for the business of the country. Great facilities for business of almost every description, especial- ly for every kind of mechanics, are to be had here. It offers one of the best situations on the western waters for building and repairing 308 steam-boats. Town lots and lands adjacent, have risen in value from five hundred to one thousand per cent, within the last twelve months. Alton has respectable and well finished houses of worship, for the Presbyterian, Methodist Protestant, and Baptist denomina- tions; two good schools, a lyceum, that holds weekly meetings, and two printing-offices. The population in general, is a moral, indus- trious, enterprising class. Few towns in the West have equalled this in contributions for public and benevolent objects, in proportion to age and population. Arrangements have been made for doing an extensive business in the slaughtering and packing of pork and beef. Four houses are engaged in that line, which slaughtered about twenty-five thousand hogs the last season. Many buildings will be erected the present season, amongst which will be an extensive hotel, which is much needed. The town is situated at the base, side, and top, of the first blufis that extend to the river, above the mouth of the Kaskaskia. Adjacent to it, and which will eventually become amalgamated, is Middleton, laid off directly in the rear. Upper Jlllon is from two and a half to three miles back from the river, and in the rear of Lower Alton, on elevated ground, and in every respect a very healthy situation. It has ex- ceeding one hundred and twenty families, and is rapidly improving. Adjacent to it, and ILLINOIS. 309 forming now a part of the town plat, is " Shurtleff College, of Alton, Illinois," which bids fair to become an important and flourish- ing institution. Also, "Alton Theological Seminary," which has commenced operations. Both these institutions have been gotten up under the influence and patronage of the Baptist denomination. A female seminary, of a high order, under the name of the "Al- ton Female Institute," has been chartered, and a building is about to be erected for the pur- pose. The Baptists, Methodists and Presby- terians have congregations here, and two houses of worship were built the past year. Chicago is the largest commercial town in Illinois. It is situated at the junction of north and south branches, and along the main Chicago, near its entrance into lake Michi- gan, on a level prairie, but elevated above the highest floods. A recent communication, from a respectable mercantile house, gives the following statistics: "Fifty-one stores, thirty groceries, ten taverns, twelve physi- cians, twenty-one attornies, and 4000 inhabit- ants. We have four churches, and two more building, one bank, a marine and fire insur- ance company about to go into operation, and a brick hotel containing ninety apartments. There were nine arrivals and departures of steam-boats in 1835, and two hundred and sixty-seven, of brigs and schooners, contain- ing 5015 tons of merchandise, and 9400 bar- rels of salt, besides lumber, provisions, &c. 310 PECK'S GUIDE. The harbor now constructing by the United States government, will be so far completed in 1836, as to admit vessels and steam-boats navigating the lakes. A few miles back of Chicago, are extensive tracts of wet prairie. Galena is the seat of justice for Jo Daviess county, situated on Fever river, in the midst of the mining district. It has about twenty stores, a dozen groceries, and about 1000 inhabitants. Springfield is near the geographical centre of the State, and in the midst of a most fertile region of country. It is a flourishing inland town, and contains about 2000 inhabitants. Jacksonville, the county seat of Morgan coun- ty, has about the same population, and is equally delightful and flourishing. One mile west, on a most beautiful emi- nence, stands "Illinois College," founded under the auspices of the Presbyterian de- nomination, and bids fair to become a flour- ishing seat of learning. I have not room to name, much less de- scribe, the many growing towns and villages in this State, that excite and deserve the attention of emigrants. On the Illinois river, are Ottawa, and several eligible sites in its vicinity, where towns have commenced; Beardstown, a short distance below the mouth of Sangamon river; Peoria, at the foot of Peoria lake (a most beautiful site, and con- taining 1 ,000 inhabitants) ; Meredosia, Naples, Pekin, Hennepin, &.c. On the Mississippi, ILLINOIS. 311 are Quincy, Warsaw, New Boston, and Ste- phenson, the sea.t of justice for Rock Island county. Interior, are Bloomington, Decatur, Tremont, Shelbyville, Hillsboro', Edwards- ville, Carlyle, Belleville, Carrollton, and many others. Towards the Wabash, are Danville, Paris, Lawrenceville, Carrni, and Mount Carmel; the last of which has an importance, from being connected with the grand rapids of the Wabash. Shawneetown is the commercial depot for the south-eastern part of the State. On the military tract, are Rushville, Pittsfield, Griggsville, Carthage, Macomb, Monmouth, Knoxville, Lewistown, Canton, &c. ; all pleasant sites, and having a population from two or three hundred to one thousand inhabitants. For a more particular description of each county, town and settlement, with all other particulars of Illinois, the reader is referred to "A GAZETTEER OF ILLINOIS," by the au thor of this GUIDE. Projected Improvements. The project of uniting the waters of lake Michigan and tht Illinois, by a canal, was conceived soon after the commencement of the Grand canal of New York; and a board of commissioners, with engineers, explored the route and esti- mated the cost, in 1823. Provision, by a grant of each alternate section of land within five miles of the route, having been granted by Congress, another board of commissioners was appointed in 1829; a new survey was 312 PECK'S GUIDE. made, and the towns of Chicago and Ottawa laid off, and some lots sold in 1830. Various movements have since been made, but noth- ing effectually done, until the recent special session of the legislature, when an act was passed, to authorize the governor to borrow funds upon the faith of the State; a new board of commissioners has been organized, and this great work is about to be prosecuted with vigor to its completion. Funds, in part, have been provided, from the sales of certain saline lands belonging to the State, to improve the navigation of the Great Wabash, at the Grand Rapids, near the mouth of White river, in conjunction with the State of Indiana. From the same source, funds are to be applied to the clearing out of several navigable water-courses, and repairing roads within the State. Charters have been granted to several rail- road companies, some of which have been surveyed, and the stock taken. One from Alton to Springfield was surveyed last year, and the stock subscribed in December. An- other from St. Louis, by the coal mines of St. Clair county, to Belleville, thirteen miles, is expected to be made immediately. The pro- ject of a central rail-way from the termination of the Illinois and Michigan canal, at the foot of the rapids, a few miles below Ottawa, through Bloomington, Decatur, Shelbyville, Vandalia, and on to the mouth of the Ohio river, has been entered upon with spirit. ILLINOIS. 313 Another charter contemplates the continu- ance of a route, already provided for in Indi- ana, and noticed under Ohio, from Lafa- yette, la., by Danville, Shelbyville, and Hills- boro', to Alton, the nearest point from the east to the Mississippi. A rail-road charter was granted, at a previous session of the legislature, from MeredOsia to Jacksonville, and another from Vincennes to Chicago. We have only room to mention the follow- ing charters, which have recently been grant- ed, in addition to those already specified: One from Pekin to Tremont, in Tazewell county, nine miles. One from the Wabash, by Peoria, to War saw, in Hancock county. The Wabash and Mississippi rail-road com- pany. The Mount Carmel and Alton rail-road company. The Rushville rail-road company. The Winchester, Lynville, and Jackson- ville rail-road company. The Shawneetown and Alton rail-road com- pany. The Pekin, Bloomington, and Wabash rail- road company. The Waverjy and Grand Prairie rail-road company. The Galena and Chicago union rail-road company. The Wabash and Mississippi union rail- road company.. 314 PECK'S GUIDE. The Mississippi, Carrollton, and Springfield rail-road company. The national road is in progress through this State, and considerable has been made on that portion which lies between Vandalia and the boundary of Indiana. This road en- ters Illinois at the north-east corner of Clark CC Ti^ arid paSSGS dia g nall J through Coles and i^mngham counties, in a south-westerly course, to Vandalia, a distance of ninety miles. The road is established eighty feet wide, the central part thirty feet wide, raised above standing water, and not to exceed three degrees from a level. The base of all the abutments of bridfes must be equal in thickness to one third of the height of the abutment. i i^f The road is not yet placed in a traveling condition. The line of the road is nearly direct; the loss, in ninety miles, being only the eighty-eighth part of one per cent Be- tween Vandalia and Ewington, for twenty- three miles, it does not deviate in the least from a direct line. From Vandalia, westward, the road is not jet located; but it will probably pass to Alton. Education. The same provision has been made for this as other Westei* States, in the disposal of the public lands. The section numbered sixteen, in each township of land, is sold upon petition of the people within the township, and the avails constitute a perma- nent fund, the interest of which is annually ILLINOIS. 315 applied towards the expenses, in part, of the education of those who attend school, living within the township. A school system, in part, has been arrang- ed by the legislature. The peculiar and un- equal division of the country into timber and prairie lands, and the inequality of settlements consequent thereupon, will prevent, for many years to come, the organization of school districts with defined geographical boundaries. To meet this inconvenience, the legislature has provided, that any number of persons can elect three trustees, employ a teacher in any mode they choose, and receive their propor- tion of the avails of the school funds. In all cases, however, the teacher must keep a daily account of each scholar who attends school, and, make out a schedule of the aggregate that each scholar attends, every six months, and present it certified by the trustees of the school, to the school commissioner of the county, who apportions the money accordingly. This State receives three per cent, on all the net avails of public lands sold in this State, which, with the avails of two townships sold makes a respectable and rapidly in- creasing fund, the interest only of which can be expended, and that only to the payment . instructers. Good common school teachers, both male and female, are greatly needed, and will meet with ready employ and liberal wages. Here is a most delightful and inviting field tor 316 PECK'S GUIDE. Christian activity. Common school, with Sunday school instruction, calls for thousands of teachers in the West. Several respectable academies are in oper- ation, and the wants and feelings of the com- munity call for many more. Besides the col- leges at Jacksonville and Alton, already no- ticed, others are projected, and several have been chartered. The Methodist denomina- tion have a building erected, and a prepara- tory school commenced, at Lebanon, St. Clair county. The Episcopalians are about estab- lishing a college at Springfield. One or more will be demanded in the northern and eastern portions of the State; and it may be calculat- ed, that, in a very brief period, the State of Illinois will furnish facilities for a useful and general education, equal to those in any part of the country. Government. The constitution of Illinois was formed by a convention, held at Kaskas- kia, in August, 1818. It provides for the distribution of the powers of government into three distinct departments, the legislative, executive, and judiciary. The legislative authority is vested in a general assembly, consisting of a senate and house of represen- tatives. Elections are held biennially, as are the ordinary sessions of the legislature. Sen- ators are elected for four years. The executive power is vested in the gov- ernor, who is chosen every fourth year, by the electors for representatives; but the same ILLINOIS, 317 person is ineligible for the next succeeding four years. The lieutenant governor is also chosen every four years. The judicial power is vested in a supreme court, and such inferior courts as the general assembly, from time to time, shall establish. The supreme court consists of a chief justice and three associate judges. The governor and judges of the supreme court constitute a council of revision, to which all bills, that have passed the assembly, must be submitted. If objected to by the council of revision, the same may become a law, by the vote of a majority of all the mem- bers elected to both houses. The right of suffrage is universal. All white male inhabitants, citizens of the United States, twenty-one years of age, arid who have resided within the State six months next preceding the elections, enjoy the right of voting. Votes are given viva voce. The in- troduction of slavery is prohibited. The con- stitution can only be altered by a convention. General Remarks. 1. Farms, somewhat improved, are almost daily exchanging own- ers, and a considerable spirit of enterprise has been awakened within a year or two past. The prices of farms and improvements vary greatly, and are influenced much by factitious and local circumstances. From St. Clair county, northward, they average, probably, from five to ten dollars per acre, and are rising in value. In some counties, farms will 318 cost from two to five dollars per acre. A farm in Illinois, however, means a tract of land, much of it in a state of nature, with some cheap, and, frequently, log-buildings; with twenty, forty, sixty, eighty or one hundred acres, fenced and cultivated. Good dwellings of brick, stone or wood, begin to be erected. Among the old residents, there have been but few barns built. The want of adequate supplies of lumber, and of mechanics, renders good buildings more expensive than in the new counties of New England or New York. 2. .Merchants' goods, groceries, household furniture and almost every necessary and comfort in house-keeping, can be purchased here; and many articles retail at about the same prices as in the Atlantic States. 3. The following table will exhibit the cost of three hundred and twenty acres of land, at Congress price, and preparing one hundred and sixty acres for cultivation or prairie land: Cost of 320 acres, at $1 25 per acre, $400 Breaking up 160 acres prairie, at $ 2 per acre, . 320 Fencing it into four fields, with a Kentucky fence of eight rails high, with cross stakes, 175 Cabins, corn-cribs, stable, &c., 250 Making the cost of the farm, $1145 In many instances, a single crop of wheat will pay for the land, for fencing, breaking up, cultivating, harvesting, threshing, and taking to market. 4. All kinds of mechanical labor, especially ILLINOIS. 319 in the building line, are in great demand; even very coarse and common workmen get almost any price they ask. Journeymen mechanics get $2 per day. A carpenter or brick mason wants no other capital, to do first-rate business, and soon become indepen- dent, than a set of tools, and habits of indus- try, sobriety, economy and enterprise. 5. Common laborers on a farm obtain from $12 to $15 per month, including board. Any young man, with industrious habits, can begin here without a dollar, and in a very few years become a substantial farmer. A good cradler in the harvest-field, will earn from $1 50 to $2 per day. 6. Much that we have stated in reference to Illinois, will equally apply to Missouri, or any other Western State. Many general principles have been laid down, and particu- lar facts exhibited, with respect to the general description of the State, soil, timber, kinds of land, and other characteristics, under Illinois, and, to save repetition, are omitted elsewhere. CHAPTER XIII. MISSOURI. Extent and Boundaries Civil Divisions Population at different Periods Surface, Soil and Productions Towns. LENGTH, two hundred and seventy-eight; medium breadth, two hundred and thirty-five miles: containing 64,500 square miles, and 41,280,000 acres. Bounded north by the Des Moines country, or New Purchase, attached to Wisconsin Territory, west by Indian Territory, south by Arkansas, and east by the Mississippi river; Between 36 and 40 37' north lati- tude, and between 11 15' and 17 30' west longitude. Civil Divisions. It is divided into fifty counties, as follows: Barry, Benton, Boone, Callaway, Cape Girardeau, Carroll, Chari- ton, Clay, Clinton, Cole, Cooper, Crawford, Franklin, Gasconade, Green, Howard, Jack- son, Jefferson, Johnson, Lafayette, Lewis, Lincoln, Madison, Marion, Monroe, Mont- MISSOURI. 321 gomery, Morgan, New Madrid, Perry, Pettis, Pike, Polk, Pulaski, Randolph, Rails, Ray, Ripley, Rives, St. Francis, Ste. Genevieve, St. Charles, St. Louis, Saline, Scott, Shelby, Stoddart, Van Buren, Warren, Washington and Wayne. Population at Different Periods. In Population. 1810 (excluding Arkansas), .. . 19,833 1820, 66,586 1824, 80,000 1830, 140,455 1832,. . 176,276 1836, estimated,. 210,000! Prom Increise. 1810 to 1820, . . 46,753 1820 " 1824, . . 14,500 1824 1830, . . 60,455 1830 " 1832, . . 35,820 1832 " 1836, . . 33,724 The constitution is similar to that of Illinois, in its broad features, excepting the holding of slaves is allowed, and the General Assembly has no power to pass laws for the emancipa- tion of slaves, without the consent of their owners, or paying an equivalent. It is made the duty of the General Assembly " to oblige the owners of slaves to treat them with hu- manity, and to abstain from ail injuries to them extending to life or limb." " Slaves shall not be deprived of an impartial trial by jury." In 1832, there were in the State, 32,184 slaves, and 661 free colored persons. Every free white male citizen has the right, of suffrage, after a residence in the State of one year. Surface, Soil and Productions. The surface of this State is greatly diversified. South of 14* 322 PECK'S GUIDE. Cape Girardeau, with the exception of some bluffs along the Mississippi, it is entirely allu- vial, and a large proportion consists of swamp and inundated lands, the most of which are heavily timbered. From thence to the Mis- souri river, and westward to the dividing grounds between the waters of the Osage and Gasconade rivers, the country is generally timbered, rolling, and in some parts, quite hilly. No part of Missouri, however, is strict- ly mountainous. Along the waters of Gascon- ade and Black rivers the hills are frequently abrupt and rocky, with strips of rich alluvion along the water-courses. Much of this region abounds with minerals of various descriptions. Lead, iron, coal, gypsum, manganese, zinc, antimony, cobalt, ochre of various kinds, common salt, nitre, plumbago, porphyry, jas- per, chalcydony, buhrstone, marble and free- stone, of various qualities. The lead and iron cere are literally exhaustless, and of the rich- est quality. To say there is probably iron ore enough in this region to supply the United States with iron for one hundred thousand years to come, would not be extravagant. Here, too, is water power in abundance, rapid streams, with pebbly beds, forests of timber and exhaustless beds of bituminous coal. The only difficulty of working this vast body of minerals is the inconvenience of get- ting its proceeds to the Mississippi. The streams that rise in this region, run different courses into the Missouri, the Mississippi and MISSOURI. the Arkansas, but they are too rapid and winding in their courses to afford safe and easy navigation. Were the rafts now lodged in the St. Fran- cois removed by the agency of government, as they have been in Red river, the lower section of the mineral country could be reached by steam-boat navigation. The citizens of St. Louis, very recently, have entered upon the project of a railway from that city, through the heart of this country, to the fine, farming lands, in the south-western part of the State, Such a project, carried into effect, would open a boundless field of wealth in Missouri. The western part of the State is divided in- to prairie and forest land, much of which is fertile. Along the Osage, it is hilly, and the whole is undulating, arid regarded as a healthy region, abounding with good water, salt springs and limestone. North of the Mis- souri the face of the country is diversifiedj with a mixture of timber and prairie. From the Missouri to Salt river, good springs are scarce, and in several counties it is difficult to obtain permanent water by digging wells. Artificial wells, as they may be called, are made by digging a well forty or fifty feet deep, and replenishing it with a current of rain wa- ter from the roof of the dwelling-house. Much of the prairie land in this part of the State is inferior to the first quality of prairie land in Illinois, as the soil is more clayey, arid does not so readily absorb the water. Be- 324 PECK'S GUIDE. tween Sa]t river and Des Moines, are beauti- ful, rich lands. The counties of Rails, Ma- rion, Monroe, Lewis and Shelby are first rate. The counties of Warren, Montgomery, Calla- way, Boone, Howard and Chariton, all lying on the north side of the Missouri river, are rolling; in some places are bluffs and hills, with considerable good prairie, and an abun- dance of timbered land. Further west, the proportion of prairie increases to the boundary line, as it does to the northward of Boone, Howard and Chariton counties. After making ample deductions for inferior soil, ranges of barren hills, and large tracts of swamp, as in the south, the State of Missouri contains a vast proportion of excellent farming land. The .people, generally, are enterprising, hardy and industrious; and most of those who hold slaves, perform labor with them. Emigrants from every State and several countries of Europe, are found here, but the basis of the population is from Kentucky, Tennessee and Virginia. The natural productions of Missouri are simi- lar to those States already described, and the agricultural productions are the same as Illi- nois, except that more tobacco is produced in the middle, and considerable quantities of cot- ton in the southern counties. Towns. The city of Jefferson is the politi- cal capital of the State. It is situated on the right bank of the Missouri, a few miles above the mouth of the Osage, and about one hun- dred and thirty-eight miles from St. Louis. It MISSOURI. 325 is a small town, with little business, except what pertains to the government of the State. A state house, governor's house and peniten- tiary have been erected. ST. Louis is the commercial capital, and the most important place in all this portion of the Valley of the Mississippi. It stands on the western bank of the Mississippi, one hun- dred and eighty miles above the junction of the Ohio, eighteen miles below that of the Missouri, and thirty-eight miles below that of the Illinois. It is beautifully situated on as- cending and elevated ground, which spreads out into an undulating surface to the west for many miles. Two streets are parallel with the river on the first bank, and the rest of the city stands on the second bank; but very little grading is necessary, to give the streets run- ning back from the river their proper inclina- tion. The old streets, designed only for a French village, are too narrow for public con- venience, but a large part of the city has been laid out on a liberal scale. The Indian and Spanish trade, the fur and peltry business, lead, government agencies, army supplies, surveys of government lands, with the regular trade of an extensive interior country, makes St. Louis a place of great business, in propor- tion to its population, which is about 10,000. The following, from the register of the wharf-master, will exhibit the commerce for 1835: PECK'S GUIDE. Steam-boat Register. Number of different boats arrived, 121 Aggregate of tonnage, 15,470 Number of arrivals, 803 Wharfage collected, $4,573 60 Wood and Lumber, liable to wharfage. Plank, joist and scantling, 1,414,330 feet. Shingles, 148,000 " Cedar posts, 7,706 " Fire-wood, 8,066 cords. The proportionate increase of business will be seen by reference to the following registry for 1831: Different steam-boats arrived, 60 Average amount of tonnage, 7,769 Number of entries, 532 The morality, intelligence and enterprise of this city is equal to any other in the West, in proportion to its size. The American popu- lation is most numerous, but there are many French, Irish and Germans. About one third of the inhabitants are Roman Catholics. The Presbyterians, Methodists and Episcopalians have large congregations and houses of wor- ship: the Baptists and Unitarians are rather small, and without public edifices. The Ro- man Catholic cathedral is a costly building, of freestone, and has a splendid chime of bells, sent over from Europe. St. Louis is a pleasant and healthy situation, and surround- ed by a fertile country. We have not space to give particulars re- specting many interesting and flourishing towns in Missouri. MISSOURI. 327 Cape Girardeau is a commercial depot for the southern part of the State. Ste. Gene- vieve stands a little back from the river, and is known only as an old French village. Selma is a landing and depot for the lead mine country, thirty-eight miles below St Louis. Clarksville, Louisiana, Marion city, Hannibal, Saverton and La Grange are com- mercial sites on the Mississippi, above the mouth of Missouri. Palmyra is a beautiful town, of about one thousand inhabitants, and the seat of justice for Marion county. Along the Missouri, are Portland, Rocheport, Boon- ville, Lexington, Independence, and many other places of various degrees of importance. Franklin formerly stood on the north bank of Missouri, but most of it has been removed, three miles interior, to the bluffs. Potosi is a central town in the mineral district. Fulton, Columbia and Fayette are the seats of justice for Callaway, Boone and Howard counties, and are pleasant and flourishing towns. About the same provision for education has been made in this as in other Western States, and a disposition to encourage schools, acad- emies and colleges is fast increasing. CHAPTER XIV. ARKANSAS. Situation and Extent Civil Divisions River? Face of the Country Soil Water Productions Climate Minerals State of Society. ARKANSAS, which has recently formed a con- stitution, and has been received into the na- tional Union, lies between 33 and 36 30' north latitude, and between 13 30' and 17 45' west longitude. Length, two hundred and thirty-five; medium breadth, two hundred and twenty-two miles; containing about 50,000 square miles, or 32, 000, 000 acres. Civil Divisions. The following are the counties, with the population, from the census taken in 1835: Counties. Popu1a.|Counties. Popula. .Counties. Popula. Arkansas,. 2,080 Independence, 2, 633| Phillips, . . . 1,518 Carroll, . . 1,357 Izard, l,S79|Pike, 449 Chicot,. . . 2,471 ; Jackson,. . . . 891 (Pope, .... 1,318 Conway, . 1,2 J 4 Jefferson,. . . ,l,474 l Pulaski, ... 3,513 Clark, . . . 1,285 Johnson, 1,803 Scott, .... 100 Crawford,. 3,139 Lafayette, . . .1,446 Sevier, .... 1,350 Crittenden, 1,407 Lawrence, . . .3,844 St. Francis,. 1,896 Greene, ... 971 Miller, 1,373 Union,. ... 878 Hempstead.2,955 Mississippi, .. 600 Van Buren, . 855 Hot-Spring,6,117Monroe, .... 556 Washington, 6,742 Total, 58,212 ARKANSAS. 329 Another table we have seen, makes out the population, HS officially reported (with the ex- ception of two counties, from which returns had not been made), to be 51,809; white males, 22,585; white females, 19,386; total whites, 41,971: slaves, 9,629; free persons of color, 209. The population, in 1830, 30,388; in 1833, 40,660. The following graphic description of Arkan- sas, is taken from a letter from Rev. Harvey Woods, in that State, to the editor of the Cincinnati Journal, and is corroborated by testimony in our possession, from various, correspondents. It was written in 1835. "Arkansas Territory is a part of that vast country ceded to the United States, by France, in 1803. From the time of the purchase, till lately, the tide of emigration hardly reached thus far. In 1800, the population was 1052. Arkansas was erected into a Territory, in 1819. At this time it is receiving a share of those who retire beyond the Mississippi. " Rivers. The Territory is admirably in- tersected with navigable rivers; the Missis- sippi on the east, the great Red river on the south. Between these, and running general- ly from north-west to south-east, are the St. Francois, White, Arkansas and Washitau rivers, all fine streams for steam-boat navi- gation. " Face of the Country. It is various. No country affords more diversified scenery. The country in the east, for one hundred miles, is 15 330 flat, with marshes and swamps; in the middle, broken and hilly; and in the west, hilly and mountainous. There are some prairies, some thickly timbered land, some heavy timbered. The country is generally a timbered country. Some parts are sandy, some rocky, and some flinty. " Soil, ^hould a man travel here, and ex- pect to find all good land, he would be sadly disappointed. The best lands are generally contiguous to the rivers and creeks; and these are exceedingly fertile, not surpassed by any soil in the United States. Arkansas soil, that is rich, has just sand enough to make it lively and elastic. Our best lands are covered with walnut, hackberry, mulber- ry, oak, ash, grape vines, &c. " Water. The hilly and mountainous parts are well supplied with springs, limestone and freestone. Also good streams for mills. In the flat country, good water is easily obtained by digging. "Productions. Cotton and corn are the prin- cipal. The Arkansas cottons commanded the best price last season, in the Liverpool mar- ket. It is a country of unequalled advantages for raising horses, mules, cattle and hogs. " Climate. It is mild, and, from its differ- ence in latitude, say from 32 40' to 36 30' N., and the difference in local situation, we would guess, and correctly too, that there is much difference in the health of different places; the high and northern parts healthy, ARKANSAS. 331 and the flat and southern subject to agues and bilious fevers. The climate has been considered unhealthy to new settlers; but it is not more so than other new countries. "Minerals. There are quantities of iron, lead, coal, salt, and, it is asserted by some, silver. There are many salt and sulphur springs. On the Arkansas river, beyond the limits of the Territory proper, is a section of country called the salt prairie, which, accord- ing to good authority, is covered, for many miles, from four to six inches deep, with pure white salt. In the Hot Spring country, are the famous hot springs, much resorted to by persons of chronic and paralytic diseases. The temperature, in dry, hot weather, is at boiling point. " State of Society. The general character of the people is brave, hardy and enterprising, frequently without the polish of literature, yet kind and hospitable. The people are now rapidly improving in morals and intellect. They are as ready to encourage schools, the preaching of the gospel, and the benevolent enterprises of the age, as any people in new countries. The consequences of living here a long time, without the opportunity of edu- cating their children, and destitute of the means of grace, are, among this population, just what they always will be under similar circumstances. Ministers of all denomina- tions are 'few and far between.' We have no need here to build on others' foundation. 332 PECK'S GUIDE. " I am living in Jackson county, on White river. This county has a larger quantity of good land than any one in the Territory. \Vhite river is always navigable for steam- boats to this place, three hundred and fifty miles from its mouth. Well water is good, some fine springs. Washington county, and some others, that have the reputation of bet- ter health, are more populous. " We want settlers; and we have no doubt, that vast numbers of families in the States, particularly the poor, and those in moderate circumstances, would better their situation by coming here, where they can get plenty of fertile and fresh land at government price, $1,25 per acre. They can have good range, and all the advantages of new countries. Emigrants, however, ought not to suffer themselves to expect all sunshine, and no winter. We have cloudy days and cold weather, even in Arkansas! If they have heard of the honey pond, where flitters grow on trees, they need not be surprised, if they don't find it. Cabins cannot be built, wells dug, farms opened, rails made, and meeting- bouses and school-houses erected, without work. " It may be asked, 'If Arkansas be so fine a country, why has it not been settled faster?' There are, perhaps, three reasons: a fear of the Indians, a fear of sickness, a fear of bad roads. The Indians are now all peaceably situated beyond the Territory proper, and are ARKANSAS. 333 blessed with the labors of a number of good pious missionaries, who are teaching them to read the Bible, and showing the tall sons of the forest the way that leads to heaven. Sickness is no more to be dreaded here, than in Illinois and Missouri. The roads have indeed been bad. For a long time, no one could venture through the Mississippi swamps, unless he was a Daniel Boone. But appro- priations have been made, by Congress, for several roads. This summer (1835), roads from Memphis to Little Rock, and to Litch- field and Batesville, and other points, will be completed. An appropriation of upwards of $100,000 has been made, to construct a road through the Mississippi swamp. " Again: we want settlers, we want physi- cians, lawyers, ministers, mechanics and farmers. We want such, however, and only such, as will make good neighbors. If any, who think of coming to live with us, are gam- blers, drunkards*, Sabbath-breakers, profane swearers, or the like, we hope that, when they leave their old country, they will leave their old habits." The constitution of this State, in its essen- tial features, is similar to Missouri, and other south-western States. CHAPTER XV. WISCONSIN TERRITORY. Boundaries and Extent Rivers Soil Productions Towns, &c. UNDER this name, is now comprehended an extensive district of country, lying on both sides of the Mississippi river, above Illinois and Missouri, and extending indefinitely north. That portion lying betwixt, the northern boun- dary of Illinois and the Wisconsin river, and from lake Michigan to the Mississippi, has the Indian title extinguished, and, in part, has been surveyed and brought into market. There is much excellent land in this part of the Territory, and it is well watered with perennial streams and springs. Offices are opened, for the sale of public lands, at Min- eral Point and Green Bay, and a large amount has been sold, and some at a high price. The country immediately bordering on lake Michigan, is well timbered, with various trees. Here are red, white, black and burr oaks, beech, ash, linden, poplar, walnut, hickory, WISCONSIN TERRITORY. 335 sugar and white maple, elm, birch, hemlock and pine, with many other kinds. The soil is not so deep and dark a mould as in the prai- ries of Illinois, but is fertile and easily culti- vated; it is sandy, especially about the town of Green Bay. Towards the lake, and near the body of water called Sturgeon Bay, con- nected with Green Bay, and between that and the lake, are extensive swamps and cranberry marshes. Wild rice, tamarisk and spruce grow here. About Rock river, and from thence to the Mississippi, there is much ex- cellent land, but a deficiency of timber. Lead and copper ore, and probably other minerals, abound in this part of the country. Along to the east and north of the Four lakes, are alternate quagmires and sand-ridges, for fifty miles or more, called by the French coureurs du hois, " terre tremblant" (trembling land), the character of which is sufficiently indicated by the name. There are several small lakes in the district of country we are now examining; the largest of which is Winnebago, situated thirty or for- ty miles south of Green Bay. It is about ten miles long and three broad, and is full of wild rice: Fox river passes through it. Kushka- nong is situated on Rock river, between Cat- fish and Whitewater; it is six or eight miles in diameter, with some swamps and quagmires in its vicinity. The Four lakes are strung along on a stream called Catfish, which enters Rock river twen- 336 ty-five or thirty miles above the boundary of Illinois. They are six or eight miles long, abounding with fish, and are surrounded with an excellent farming country. Green Bay settlement and village is two hundred and thirty miles north of Chicago; two hundred and twenty north-east from Ga- lena; one hundred and twenty from Fort Winnebago, and in north latitude 44 44'. ffavanno is a town recently commenced in this vicinity, with an excellent harbor, grows rapidly, and bids fair to become a place of importance. Property has risen the last year most astonishingly. Fort Winnebago is a military post, at the bend, and on the right bank of Fox river, opposite the portage. From thence to the Wisconsin, is a low, .wet prairie, of three fourths of a mile, through which, a company has been chartered to cut a canal. On this route, the first explorers reached the Missis- sippi, in 1673. The Wisconsin river, how- ever, without considerable improvement, is not navigable for steam-boats, at ordinary stages of the water, without much trouble. It is full of bars, islands, rocks, and has a devious channel. The streams that rise in the eastern part of this Territory and flow into lake Michigan, north of the boundary of Illinois, are in order as follows: 1. Pipe creek, a small stream, but a few miles from the boundary: 2. Root river: 3, Milwaukee, ninety miles from Chicago, WISCONSIN TERRITORY. 337 which rises in the swampy country, south of Winnebago lake, runs a south-easterly course, and after receiving the Menomone, forms Milwaukee bay. Here is a town site, on both sides of the river, with a population of six or eight hundred, which promises to become a place of business. The soil up the Milwaukee is good, from six to twelve inches in depth, a black loam and sand. Passing northward down the lake, is Oak creek, nine miles below Milwaukee; thence twenty-one miles is Sauk creek, a small stream. Seven- ty miles from Milwaukee is Shab-wi-wi-a-gun. Here is found white pine, maple, beech, birch and spruce, but very little oak: the surface level and sandy. Pigeon river is fifteen or twenty miles further on, with excellent land on its borders; timber, maple, ash, beech, linden, elm, &c. Fifteen miles further down is Manatawok. Here commences the hem- lock, with considerable pine. This stream is about forty or fifty miles from Green Bay set- tlement. Twin rivers are below Manatawok, with a sandy soil, and good timber of pine and other varieties. From Milwaukee to Green Bay, by a surveyed route, is one hundred and twelve miles; by the Indian trail, commonly traveled, one hundred and thirty-five miles. North of the \Visconsin river is Crawford county, of which Prairie du Chien is the, seat of justice. From the great bend at Fort Win- nebago, across towards the Mississippi, is a series of abrupt hills, rising several hundred 338 PECK'S GUIDE. feet, and covered with a dense forest of elm, linden, oak, walnut, ash, sugar-maple, &.c. The soil is rich, but too hilly and broken for agricultural purposes. There is no alluvial soil or bottoms along the streams, or grass in the forests. The Wisconsin river rises in an unexplored country, towards lake Superior. The coureurs du bois and voyageurs represent it as a cold, mountainous, dreary region, with swamps. West of the Mississippi, above Des Moines, and extending northward to a point some dis- tance above the northern boundary of Illinois, and for fifty miles interior, is a valuable coun- try, purchased of the Indians, in 1832. Its streams rise in the great prairies, and run an east or south-east course into the Mississippi. The most noted are Flint, Skunk, Wau-be-se- pin-e-con, Upper and Lower Iowa rivers, and Turkey, Catfish and Big and Little Ma-quo- ka-tois or Bear creeks. The soil, in general, is excellent, and very much resembles the military tract in Illinois. The water is excel- lent, plenty of lime, sand and freestone, ex- tensive prairies, but a deficiency of timber a few miles interior. About Dubuque, opposite Galena, are extensive and rich lead mines. Burlington is a town at the Flint hills, opposite Warren county, Illinois, containing a popula- tion of seven hundred. Dubuque is situated on the Mississippi, on a sandy bottom, above high water, and fourteen miles north-west from Galena. It has about sixty stores and WISCONSIN TERRITORY. 339 groceries, two taverns, two churches, and about one thousand inhabitants, and we have before us the prospectus for the " Dubuque Visitor," a weekly newspaper. Peru is in the vicinity, and contains about five hundred inhabitants. The New Purchase, as this dis- trict of country is called, is divided into two counties, Dubuque and Des Moines, and con- tains a population of eight or ten thousand. This Territory has, heretofore, for civil purposes, formed a part of the late Michigan Territory; but in 1836 it was erected into a territorial government, by an act of Congress. The population has been recently estimated, by the legislature of the Territory, at 30,000. Probably not many years will elapse before two new States will be formed out of this dis- trict of country, the one on the eastern and the other on the western side of the Mississippi, CHAPTER XVI. LITERARY AND RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS. Colleges Statistical Sketch of each Denomination Field for Effort, and Progress made. IN giving a sketch of literary and religious institutions in the West, the very limited space remaining to be occupied in this work, compels me to throw .together a few general facts only. The author has made some pro- gress in collecting materials, and he designs to prepare another work soon, in which a va- riety of particulars and sketches will be given of the early history, progress of literary and religious institutions, colleges, seminaries and churches, Bible, Sunday school, education, and other kindred societies in the Western Valley, with the present aspect of each de- nomination of Christians. The interest taken in the affairs of the West, and the anxiety evinced by the community for facts and par- ticulars on those subjects, demand that they should be treated more in detail than the limits of this Guide will allow. LITERARY INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 341 1. COLLEGES. WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA Has Jefferson College, at Canon&burgh, which the Presbyte- rians originated in 1802, from the first grammar school ever established by Protestants west of the Alleghany mountains. Graduates, in 1835, forty-six ; new students admitted, seventy-five ; present number, two hundred and thirty (in- cluding the preparatory department), of which one hundred and thirty-five profess religion. Course of mathematics and physical sciences greatly extended, with practical application to civil engineering. Instruction provided in Hebrew, French, Spanish, German, Portu- guese and Italian; provision for manual la- bor; expenses moderate. Washington College, at Washington, Penn., also connected with the Presbyterian denom- ination, founded in 1806; had one hundred and forty students in 1832. Alleghany College, at Meadville, was found- ed in 1815, by Rev. T. Alden, has a valuable library of eight thousand volumes, principally the donation of the late Rev. Dr. Bentley, of Salem, Mass., a distinguished benefactor of this institution. The college did not flourish for some years, and it is now transferred to the Methodist Episcopal church, and is under charge of the Pittsburgh Conference. It now promises to be successful. The Western University of Pennsylvania was founded in 1820. The number of graduates, in 1832, was fifty; of under graduates, in all 342 PECK'S GUIDE. * departments, seventy. A beautiful college edifice has been erected in the western part of Pittsburgh, for this institution. There is no collegiate institution in Western Virginia. OHIO. Ohio University, at Athens, was founded in 1802; has an endowment of forty- six thousand and eighty acres of land, which yields $2,300 annually. A large and elegant edifice of brick was erected in 1817. The number of students, about ninety. Miami University was founded in 1824, and is a flourishing institution at Oxford, Butler county, thirty-seven miles from Cincinnati. It possesses the township of land in which it is situated, and from which it receives an in- come of about $5000. Number of students, about two hundred. Patronized by Presbyte- rians. The Cincinnati College was incorporated in 1819, continued to be sustained as a clas- sical institution for some years, and then suspended operations. It has been revived and reorganized lately and will probably be sustained. Kenyan College, at Gambier, Knox county, in a central part of the State, was established in 1828, through the efforts of Rev. Philander Chase, then bishop of the Ohio Diocess, who obtained about $30,000 in England to endow it. Its chief patrons were those excellent British noblemen, lords Kenyon and Gambier. It is under Episcopal jurisdiction, and has a LITERARY INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 343 theological department, for the education of candidates for the ministry in the Episcopal church. It has about one hundred and fifty students. Western Reserve College is at Hudson. It was founded by Presbyterians and Congrega- tionalists, in 1826, and has eighty-two students in all its departments. Franklin College is in New Athens, Har- rison county, on the eastern side of the State, and has about fifty students. The Granville Literary and Theological In- stitution originated under patronage of the Baptist denomination in 1831. It is designed to embrace four departments, preparatory, English, collegiate, and theological. It is rapidly rising, and contains more than one hundred students. Oberlin Institute has been recently estab- lished in Lorrian county, under the influence of "new measure" Presbyterians, with four departments, and hastwo hundred and seventy- six students, as follows: In the theological department, thirty-five; collegiate, thirty- seven; preparatory, thirty-one; female, seven- ty-three. The citizens of Cleaveland have recently contributed to it $15,000, of which six persons gave $1000 each. The Willibough Collegiate Institute is in the lake country of Ohio, and has been gotten up within a few years past. Marietta Collegiate Institute is said to be a flourishing and respectable institution, having 344 a large number of students in various depart- ments. INDIANA. Indiana College is a State insti- tution, established at Bloomington, and com- menced operations in 1828. Present number of students not known. In 1832, the number exceeded fifty. Hanover College is at South Hanover, six miles below the town of Madison, and near the Ohio river. It is a flourishing institution, with arrangements for manual labor, and is styled "South Hanover College and Indiana Theological Seminary." The number of stu- dents exceeds one hundred. Wabash College, at Crawfordsville, has just commenced operations under auspicious cir- cumstances. Under patronage of the Pres- byterians. ILLINOIS. Illinois College, near Jackson- ville, commenced as a preparatory school in 1830, and has made rapid progress. Large funds for its endowment have been recently provided in the Eastern States. The number of students about eighty. Shurtleff College of Alton, Illinois, was com- menced under the efforts of Baptists at Alton, in 1832, as a preparatory institution: char- tered, as a college, in February, 1835, and has been recently named in honor of a liberal patron, Dr. Benjamin Shurtleff, of Boston, Mass., who has presented the institution with $10,000. It has sixty students, and its pros- pects are encouraging. LITERARY INSTITUTIONS, McKendreean College has been chartered, a building erected, and a school commenced at Lebanon. It is connected with the Metho- dist Episcopal church. Charters have been recently granted for other colleges in this State, and measures adopted to bring some of them into existence. The Rev. Philander Chase, whose persevering labors brought into existence and successful operation, Kenyon college in Ohio, and who is now bishop of Illinois, is at present in England, where, by recent advices, he has obtained $50,000 to invest in Illinois lands, and to establish a college for the interests of the Episcopal church. MISSOURI. The Roman Catholics have two institutions of a collegiate character, es- tablished in this State. St. Mary's College, in Ferry county, was established by bishop Du Bourg, in 1822. It has six thousand volumes in the library. Including the nunnery, and school for females, a seminary for the education of priests, a pre- paratory, and a primary school, the number of teachers and students, are about three hundred. St. Louis University was founded in 1829, and is conducted by the Fathers of the Society of Jesuits. The edifice is one hundred and thirty feet by forty, of four stories, including the basement, and is situated on elevated and pleasant ground, on the confines of the city. 15* 346 For the Protestants, the following institu- tions have been established: Columbia College, adjacent to Columbia, Boon county. The institution opened in 1835, under encouraging circumstances. Marion College is in a delightful tract of country, a prairie region, in the western part of Marion county, and has between eighty and one hundred students. It is connected with the Presbyterian interests. The project, as developed by some of its founders, is an immense one, including English, scientific, classical, theological, medical, agricultural, and law departments, all to be sustained by manual labor, and the proceeds of extensive farms. Doubtless, by prudent and persever- ing efforts, a respectable college may be brought into successful operation. A college at St. Charles, has been founded, principally by the liberality of George Collier, a merchant of St. Louis, and two or three other gentlemen, and a classical and scientific school has been commenced. ARKANSAS. Efforts are making to establish a college by Presbyterian agency, at Cane Hill, in this newly formed State. Two or three collegiate institutions will soon be need- ed in this region. KENTUCKY. Transylvania University at Lexington, is the oldest collegiate institution in the West. It was commenced, by a grant of eight thousand acres of land by the legis- lature of Virginia, in 1783, and was then LITERARY INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 347 called "Transylvania Seminary." The "Ken- tucky Academy" was founded in 1794, and both institutions were united and incorporated in 1798, under the present name. It has classical, medical, law, and preparatory de- partments, and including each, from three to four hundred students. Center College, at Danville, was founded by the Presbyterian church, in 1818, for which the synod of Kentucky pledged $20,000. Number of students, about one hundred. Jlugusta College was founded in 1822, by the Ohio and Kentucky conferences of the Methodist Episcopal church. It adopted col- legiate regulations in 1828. Number of stu- dents in the collegiate, academical and prima- ry departments, about two hundred. Cumberland College was incorporated in 1324, and is established at Princeton, in the western part of the State. It is under the patronage and jurisdiction of the Cumberland Presbyterians. A farm, including a tract of five thousand acres of land, with workshops, furnish facilities for manual labor. It has about eighty students. SL Joseph's College, is a Roman Catholic institution, at Bardstown, with college build- ings sufficient to accommodate two hundred students, and valued at $60,000. It com- menced with four students in 1820. In 1833, there were in the collegiate and preparatory- departments, one hundred and twenty students. The St. Thomas and St. Mary seminaries, 348 are also under the charge of Roman Catholic priests, the one in Nelson county, four miles from Bardstown, and the other in Washington county. Georgetown College, in Scott county, was founded by the Baptist denomination, in 1830; but for some years it has been in other hands, and in not a prosperous condition. The Campbellites obtained a preponderating influ- ence over it. After much contention, an arrangement has been effected to place it under the influence of the denomination to whom it fairly belonged, and the Rev. B. F. Farnsworth has been elected president, and has accepted the office. It is expected to prosper under this arrangement. TENNESSEE. The University of Nashville is a prominent institution. The laboratory is one of the finest in the United States, and the rnineralogical cabinet not exceeded, and this department, as well as every other in the col- lege, is superintended with much talent. The number of students is about one hundred. Greenville, Knoxville and Washington col- leges are in East Tennessee. Jackson College is about to be removed from its present site, and located at Columbia; $'25,000 have been subscribed for the purpose. A Presbyterian Theological Seminary is at Maryville. MISSISSIPPI. Jefferson College is at Wash- ington, six miles from Natchez. It has not flourished as a college, and is now said to be LITERARY INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 349 conducted somewhat on the principle of a military academy. Oakland College has been recently founded by Presbyterians, and bids fair to exert a beneficial influence upon religion and morals, much needed in that State. The Baptist de- nomination are taking measures to establish a collegiate institution in that State. LOUISIANA Has a college at Jackson, in the eastern part of the State. The Roman Catholics have a college at New Orleans. ALABAMA. There is a respectable colle- giate institution, under the fostering care of the Methodist Episcopal church, at La Grange, in the north-western part of this State. Academies have been established in various parts of the West, for both sexes, and there are female seminaries of character and stand- ing at Pittsburgh, Cincinnati, Granville, Louis- ville, Lexington, Nashville, and many other places. Several more colleges, and a large number of minor institutions, will be needed very shortly to supply the demands for edu- cation in the West. The public mind is awake to the subject of education, and much has already been done, though a greater work has yet to be accomplished to supply the wants of the West in literary institutions. An annual convention is held in Cincinnati, on the first Monday in October, denominated the " Western Institute and College of Profes- sional Teachers." Its object, according to the constitution, is, "to promote by every 350 PECK'S GUIDE. laudable means, the diffusion of knowledge in regard to education, and especially by aiming at the elevation ef the character of teachers, who shall have adopted instruction as their regular profession." The first meeting was held in 1831, under the auspices of the "Academic Institute," a previously existing institution, but of more limited operations. The second convention, in 1832, framed a constitution and chose officers, since which time regular meetings have been held by del- egates or individuals from various parts of the West, and a volume of Transactions of three or four hundred pages published annually. II. THEOLOGICAL INSTITUTIONS. The Western Theological Seminary at Alleg- hany town, opposite Pittsburgh, is under the jurisdiction of the general assembly of the Presbyterian church. It commenced opera- tions in 1829. At Canonsburg is a seminary belonging to the Associate church, of which Dr. Ramsey is professor. The Associate Reformed church have a theological school in Pittsburgh, undercharge of the Rev. John T. Pressly, D. P. The Baptist denomination are now engaged in establishing a manual labor academy in the vicinity of Pittsburgh, for both ministerial and general education. The theological departments of Oberlin, Granville, and other collegiate institutions, have already been noticed. Lane Seminary, near Cincinnati, was founded in 1830, by LITERARY INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 351 Messrs. E. & W. A. Lane, merchants, of New Orleans, who made a very liberal offer of aid. Its location is excellent, two and a half miles from Cincinnati, at Walnut Hills, and is under the charge of the Rev. Dr. Beecher, and a body of professors. Number of students about forty. The Hanover Insti- tution in Indiana, has been noticed already. In the theological department are three pro- fessors and twelve students. The Baptists in this State are about establishing a manual labor seminary for ministerial and general education. A valuable property has been purchased, adjoining Covington, Ky., opposite Cincinna- ti, and measures have been put in train to found a theological seminary by the Baptist denomination. The executive committee of the " Western Baptist Education Society," have this object in charge. The " Jilt on Theological Seminary," located at Upper Al- ton, Illinois, is under an organization distinct from that of Shurtleff College, already noticed. This institution has fifty acres of valuable land, and a stone edifice of respectable size, occupied at present in joint concern with the college, and a valuable library of several hundred volumes. Its organization has been but recently effected. Rev. L. Colby is pro- fessor, with eight students. Other institu- tions, having theological education, either in whole or in part, their object, are in contem- plation. Two remarks, by way of explanation, are 352 here necessary. 1. Most of the colleges and theological schools of the Western Valley, have facilities for manual labor, or are making that provision. In several, some of the stu- dents pay half, and even the whole of their expenses, by their own efforts. Public senti- ment is awake to this subject, and is gaining ground. 2. In enumerating the students, the members of the preparatory departments are included, many of whom do not expect to pass through a regular collegiate course. The circumstances and wants of the country, from its rapid growth, seem to require the appen- dage of a large preparatory department to every college. It may be well, to observe here, that a great and increasing demand exists in all the Western States, and especially those border- ing on the Mississippi, for teachers of primary schools. Hundreds and thousands of moral, intelligent and pious persons, male and fe- male, would meet with encouragement and success in this department of labor. It is altogether unnecessary for such persons to write to their friends, to make inquiries whether there are openings, &c. If they come from the older States, with the proper recommendations as to character and qualifi- cations, they will not fail to meet with em- ployment in almost any quarter to which they may direct their course. There is not a county in Missouri, Arkansas, Illinois, or Indiana, where persons would not meet with constant employment in teaching, and espe- LITERARY INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 353 cially where teachers in Sabbath schools are needed. Persons desirous of such a field of humble, yet useful labor, should come here with the fixed purpose to mix with, and con- form to the usages of the western popula- tion, to avoid fastidiousness, and to submit to the plain, frank, social and hospitable rnanners- of the people. III. DEAF AND DUMB ASYLUMS. There are two institutions of this descrip- tion in the West: one at Columbus, Ohio' the other at Danville, Ky. The one in Ohio contains about fifty pupils. IV. MEDICAL INSTITUTIONS. The medical department in Transylvania university, Kentucky, has six professors, and usually about two hundred students to attend the lectures. Fees for an entire course, with matriculation and library, one hundred and ten dollars. Two medical institutions of re- spectable standing exist in Cincinnati: one connected with the Miami university, the other with Cincinnati college. The Ohio Reformed Medical School \vas- established at Worthington, nine miles north of Columbus, in 1830. No specified time is. required for study; but when a student will pass examination, he is licensed to practice. V. LAW SCHOOLS. The law department of Transylvania uni- versity is under the charge of two able pro- fessors, who hear recitations and deliver lee- 16 354 PECK'S GUIDE. tures. The average number of students is about forty. A law school was established at Cincinnati, in 1833, with four professors: Messrs. John C. Wright, John M. Goodenow, Edward King and Timothy Walker. The bar, the institution and the city have recently sustain- ed a severe loss in the decease of Mr. King. VI. BENEVOLENT AND RELIGIOUS SOCIETIES. To enumerate and give particulars of all these, would make a volume. We can but barely call the attention of the reader to some of the more prominent organizations amongst the different Christian denominations in this great Valley, for doing good. The Foreign Missionary Society of the Val- ley of the Mississippi, is a prominent auxiliary of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions. Its seat is Cincinnati; but by agencies and branches, it operates throughout the Valley. The Report of No- vember, 1835, states, that eighteen lliousand six hundred and fifty-eight dollars had been received into the treasury the preceding year. An edition of 3000 copies of the Missionary Herald is republished in Cincinnati, for cir- culation in the West. The Western Education Society, connected with the American Education Society, has also its seat of operations at Cincinnati. Aux- iliaries also exist in most of the Western States. Seventy-one beneficiaries were un- der its charge at the last anniversary. LITERARY INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 355 The American Tract Society has auxiliaries and agencies in most of the \Vestern States. The operations of the American Bible Society, through its numerous auxiliaries, is felt to the remotest parts of the West. The American Sunday School Union has recently established a central agency in Cin- cinnati, and is preparing to renew and greatly enlarge its very important efforts for the ben- efit of the rising generation in the West. A series of very interesting anniversaries are held in Cincinnati the first week in No- vember, when all the great objects of Chris- tian effort receive a renewed impulse. The American Home Missionary Society has more than tvv.o hundred missionaries laboring in the States west of the mountains. In 1835, they assisted two hundred and seven- teen Presbyterian ministers in this field. The Temperance effort has not been neglect- ed, and an interesting change is going for- ward, in a quiet and noiseless way, in the habits of the people, in reference to the use of intoxicating liquors. It is to be hoped, that more prompt and vigorous efforts will be made to promote this cause; but even now, there are many thousands, who abstain from the use of spirituous liquors without any for- mal pledge. The Mdthodist Episcopal church, in addi- tion to their regular system of circuits, are extending the influence of their denomination on the frontiers, by missionary operations, and their labors are prospered. 356 PECK'S GUIDE. The Baptist denomination have made some important movements in the Western Valley within the last three years. Their Home Mission Society has nearly one hundred mis- sionaries in the West. In November, 1833, the " General Convention of Western Baptists" was organized by more than one hundred ministers and brethren, assembled from vari- ous parts of the West. It is not an ecclesi- astical body, claiming jurisdiction either over churches or ministers, nor is it strictly a mis- sionary body. Its business, according to the constitution, is, "to promote, by all lawful means, the following objects, to wit: Mis- sions, both foreign and domestic; ministerial education, for such as may have first been licensed by the churches; Sunday schools, including Bible classes; religious periodicals; tract and temperance societies; as well as all others warranted by Christ in the gospel." At its second session, in 1834, the " West- ern Baptist Education Society" was formed. Its object is "the education of those who give evidence to the churches of which they are members, that God designs them for the min- istry." The executive committee are charg- ed temporarily with establishing the Central Theological Seminary, already mentioned, at Covington, Ky. Many other interesting associations for humane, philanthropic and religious purposes, exist in the Valley, which are necessarily omitted. LITERARY INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 357 VII. THE PERIODICAL PRESS. The number of different periodicals pub- lished in the Valley of the Mississippi must exceed four hundred, of which twelve or fif- teen are daily papers. There are twenty-five weekly periodicals in Mississippi, one hun- dred and sixteen in Ohio, thirty-eight in Indi- ana, nineteen in Illinois, seventeen in Mis- souri, three, and probably more, in Arkansas, two, at least, in Wisconsin Territory. The Western Monthly Magazine, published at Cin- cinnati, is well known. The Western Litera- ry Journal and Monthly Review is a respecta- ble periodical, under the editorial manage- ment of W. D. Gallagher, Esq. The Western Journal of the Medical and Physical Sciences, edited by Daniel Drake, M. D., Professor of Theory and Practice of Medicine in the Cin- cinnati college, is published quarterly, in Cincinnati. There are a number of religious weekly, semi-monthly and monthly periodicals, devoted to the interests of the principal de- nominations through the Valley. There are known to be at least one in Western Virginia, two in Western Pennsylvania, seven in Ohio, four in Kentucky, four in Tennessee, two in Illinois, two in Missouri, and one in New Orleans. Supposing the average number of copies of western periodicals equalled seven hundred and fifty, this, estimating the different periodicals at four hundred, would give three hundred thousand! We see no marked and essential difference in the talent with which 358 PECK'S GUIDE. the editorial press is conducted, between the Eastern and Western States. The limits of this work will not allow me to add further evidence that our western population are not all " illiterate," and that " not more than one person in ten can read," than the following epitome of the issues of one of the publishing- houses in Cincinnati, as exhibited in the Cin- cinnati Journal. " Western Enterprise. The enterprise of the West is not generally appreciated. As a specimen, we have procured from Messrs. Corey & W T ebster the following list of books, published by them within the last three years. These books are of sterling value. Western Primer, 60,000 Webster's Spelling Book, 600,000 Primary Reader, 7,500 Elementary Reader, 37,000 Western " 16,000 Webster's History of the United States,. . . . 4,000 Miss Beecher's Geography, 15,000 Pocket Testament, 6,500 Watts' and Select Hymns, 8,000 Beecher's Lectures on Skepticism, (three editions, 1000 each), 3,000 Stowe's Introduction to the Study of the Bible, 1 ,500 Christian Lyre 2,000 Mitchell's Chemistry, 1,000 Eberle on the Diseases of Children, 2,000 Eberle's Notes of Practice, 1 ,500 Young Lady's Assistant in Drawing, 1,000 Munsell's Map, 3,500 Chase's Statutes of Ohio, (three volumes,) . 1,000 Hammond's Reports, (sixth volume,) 500 Total, 771,000 LITERARY INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 359 Probably some of the many other publishers in the city have got out nearly or quite as many books. Truly, we are a book-making and book-reading nation." VIII. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In exhibiting the following statistics, entire correctness is not attempted. In some of the States, the latest reports have been had; in others, the author has taken data of two or three years date. Of the numbers of some of the numerous sects existing, the opinions of individuals have been the chief data he could obtain. 1. Baptists. STATES AND PARTS OF STATES. CImrches. Ministers. Communi- cants. Western Pennsylvania, 50 30 2,569 89 48 3,306 Ohio, 332 175 13,926 Michigan, . . . 60 80 1,700 Indiana, 320 175 15,000 ?40 163 6,741 180 115 6,990 Arkansas, 25 18 700 20 12 1,000 Mississippi, 100 46 4,000 North Alabama, . . . 125 53 5,700 Tennessee, 348 292 22,868 Kentucky, . 558 296 38,817 Total, 2447 1353 123317 Periodicals. The Cross and Journal, weekly, and Baptist Advocate, monthly, at Cincinnati; 360 PECK S GUIDE. the Baptist Banner, weekly, at Shelby ville, Ky. ; the Baptist, a large monthly quarto, at Nash- ville, Tenn.; the Western Pioneer and Baptist Standard- Bearer, weekly, at Upper Alton, 111. ; and the Witness, a small quarto, weekly, at Pittsburgh. 2. Methodists (Episcopal). This denomina- tion is divided into conferences, which are not arranged exactly with the boundaries of the States. A large book and printing-office is es- tablished at Cincinnati, where all the society's publications are kept for sale. Another de- pository is kept at Nashville. Conferences. or u -> 11 White Monibcrs. 1 Colored. s _e3 5 = ~" 5 1 It 11 Mississippi, Alabama, (one Dis- trict in the Valley.) Pittsburgh, Ohio, 55 16 156 ?,04 6,358 3,051 40,155 62,686 2,622 490 296 544 727 217 9,707 3,543 40,451 63,447 Missouri, (including Arkansas,) Kentucky, 57 100 7,948 25,777 1,061 5,592 889 9,898 31,369 Illinois, [ndiana, 61 70 15,038 24,984 59 229 15,097 25,213 Holston, Tennessee, 62 1?0 2 1 ,559 29,794 2,478 5,043 508 24,031 35,345 Total, 90i;237,350 18,416 2,341 258,101 Allowing two local to one circuit preacher, which is rather under than over the proper- LITERARY INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 361 tion, would make 1802, which, added to the number of those whose names are on the minutes of the conferences, would make 2703 Methodist Episcopal ministers of the gospel in the Valley of the Mississippi. The Pitts- burgh Conference Journal, Western Christian Advocate, and Western Methodist, are their periodicals. 3. Methodists (Protestant). There are two conferences of this denomination, in the West; the Pittsburgh and Ohio conferences and their circuits, preaching-stations and members, ex- tend through the States north of the Ohio riv- er, with a few stations and churches south. Pittsburgh Conference has twenty-eight cir- cuit and eighty-five local preachers and licen- tiates; twenty-five circuits, four stations and two mission-circuits, with six thousand nine hundred and two members in society. Ohio Conference has twenty-eight circuit and ninety local preachers, twenty-two cir- cuits, three stations, three mission-circuits, and three thousand six hundred and sixty-sev- en members. The Methodist Correspondent, a neat, semi-monthly quarto periodical, pub- lished at Zanesville, Ohio, is devoted to their interests. 4. Presbyterians. The following table (with the exception of Illinois), embraces fifty-six presbyteries, and is constructed from the re- turns to the general assembly, in 1834; the minutes of 1835, we understand, have not been printed. 362 PECK S GUIDE. STATES AHD PARTS OF STATES. Churches. Z " ' ^ Communi- cants. Western Pennsylvania and Western ) Virginia, } Michigan, . 212 32 135 20 22,687 1,397 Ohio, 400 255 27,821 Indiana, 99 55 4,339 Illinois, 71 50 2,000 Missouri, 33 20 1,549 1? 9 390 120 83 8,378 Tennessee, 121 90 9,926 North Alabama, 15 12 725 33 ?,4 761 Total, 1148 753 79,973 Periodicals. The Cincinnati Journal and Western Luminary, published at Cincinnati; Christian Herald, at Pittsburgh; Ohio Ob- server, at Hudson, Ohio; Western Presbyterian Herald, at Louisville, Ky. ; JVeio Orleans Ob- server, at New Orleans; and Alton Observer, at Alton, 111. ; all weekly; and the Missionary Herald, republished at Cincinnati, monthly. 5. Cumberland Presbyterians. This sect originated from the Preshyterian church in 1804, in Kentucky, but did not increase much till 1810 or 12. They are spread through most of the Western States, and have thirty- four presbyteries, seven synods, and one gen- eral assembly. The minutes of their general assembly, now before me, are not sufficiently definite to give the number of congregations. LITERARY INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 363 These probably exceed three hundred. An intelligent member of that denomination states the number of ordained preachers to be three hundred, licentiates, one hundred, candidates for the ministry, one hundred and fifty, and communicants, 50,000. Periodicals. The Cumberland Presbyterian is a weekly paper, published at Nashville, Tenn. Another has been recently started at Pittsburgh. 6. Congregationalists. In Ohio, especially in the northern part, are a number of Con- gregational churches, and some ministers, as there are in Indiana, Michigan and Illinois. There are two or three ministers, twelve or fifteen congregations, and about five hundred communicants in Illinois, who are organized into an association in Illinois. 7. Protestant Episcopal Church. This de- nomination has seven diocesses in the West- ern or south-western States, exclusive of Western Pennsylvania and Western Virginia, which belong to the diocesses of those States. They are, Ohio, Michigan, Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Indiana and Missouri. There are about seventy-five or eighty minis- ters, and twice as many churches in the West. Provision has been made, in part, for the en- dowment of the theological seminary at Gam- bier, O., in England, and Bishop Mcllvaine has obtained about $12,600, to be appropriat- ed in the erection of a gothic edifice, to be called " Bexley Hall," with three stories, and 364 accommodations for fifty students. A weekly periodical is issued at the same place, to sup- port the interests of the denomination. 8. German Lutherans. We have no data to give the statistics of this denomination. There is a synod in Ohio, another in Western Pennsylvania, and perhaps others. There are probably fifty or sixty ministers in the W r est, and one hundred and fifty congregations. 9. German Reformed Church. There are eighty congregations in Ohio, twenty in Indi- ana, and probably fifty others in the West, with forty or fifty ministers. 10. The Tunkers, or Dunkards, have forty or fifty churches, and about half as many ministers in the Western States. 11. The Shakers have villages in several places in Ohio and Kentucky, but are losing ground. 12. The Mormons have a large community at Kirkland, Ohio, where, under the direction of their prophet, Joseph Smith, they are building a vast temple. They have probably two hundred preachers, and as many congre- gations in the West, and still make proselytes. 13. Christian Sect, or Newlights, have be- come, to a considerable extent, amalgamated with the " Reformers," or " Campbdliies." I have not data on which to construct a tabular view of this sect; but from general informa- tion, estimate the number of their " bishops" and " proclaimers " at three hundred, and their communicants at 10,000 or 12,000. LITERARY INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 365 They have three or four monthly periodi- cals. Alexander Campbell, who may be justly considered the leader of this sect (though they disclaim the term sect), is a learned, talented, and voluminous writer. He con- ducts their leading periodical, the Millennial Harbinger. 14. The " United Brethren in Christ," are a pious, moral and exemplary sect, chiefly in Ohio, but scattered somewhat in other West- ern States. They are mostly of German de- scent, and, in their doctrinal principles and usages, very much resemble the Methodists. They have about three hundred ministers in the West, and publish the Religious Telescope, a large weekly paper, of evangelical princi- ples, and well conducted, printed at Circle- ville, Ohio. 15. Reformed Presbyterians, or Covenanters, have twenty or thirty churches, and as many ministers, but are much dispersed through the Northern Valley. 16. The Associate Church, or Seceders, are more numerous than the Covenanters. 17 The Associate Reformed Church. The western synod of this body still exists as a separate denomination. Their theological school, at Pittsburgh, has already been no- ticed. I know not their numbers, but sup- pose they exceed considerably the Associate Church. 18. The Friends, or Quakers, have a num- 366 PECK'S GUIDE. her of societies in Western Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, &c. 19. The Unitarians have societies and min- isters at Pittsburgh, Cincinnati, Louisville, St. Louis, and probably in other places. There are many other sects and fragments in the West. The Valley of the Mississippi, like all new countries, is a wide and fertile field for the propagation of error, as it is for the display of truth. 20. Roman Catholics. The number of pa- pal diocesses in the Valley, including the one at Mobile, is seven, of each of which a very brief sketch will be given, commencing with, 1. Detroit, including Michigan and the North-Western Territory, one bishop, with sub-officers, eighteen priests, and as many chapels. At Detroit and vicinity, for two or three miles, including the French, Irish and Germans, Roman Catholic families make up one third of the population; probably 3,500, of ail ages. At Ann Arbor, and in the towns of Webster, Scio, Northfield, Lima and Dex- ter are many. At and near Bertrand on the St. Joseph's river, adjoining Indiana, they have a school established and an Indian mis- sion. Including the fur traders and Indians, they may be estimated at 10,000 in this diocess.* * The reader \vill note that our estimates of Roman Catholics include the whole family of every age. Where- as, our statistics of Protestant denominations included only communicants. LITERARY INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 367 %. Cincinnati. A large cathedral has been built in this place, and fifteen or twenty chap- els in the diocess. Ten years ago, the late bishop Fenwick could not count up five hun- dred. The emigration of foreigners, and the laborers on the Ohio canals, and not a little success in proselyting, account for N the in- crease. There are twenty-five congregations, and eighteen priests. A literary institution, called the Athenaeum, is established at Cincin- nati, where the students are required to attend the forms of worship, and the superior in- spects all their letters. St. Peter's Orphan Asylum, is under charge of four " Sisters of Charity." The number of Catholics in Cin- cinnati is variously estimated, the medium of which is 6000, and as many more dispersed through the State. 3. Bardstown. This includes the State of Kentucky, and has a bishop, with the usual subordinates, twenty-seven congregations, and thiry-three priests, eleven of whom reside at Bardstown. A convent of six Jesuit priests at Lebanon ; another of five Dominicans, called St. Rose, in Washington county; the college at Bardstown, already noticed, and St. JVJary's Seminary in Washington county, for the education of priests. Of female insti- tutions, there are the Female Academy of Nazareth, at Bardstown, conducted by the "Sisters of Charity," and superintended by the bishop and professors of St. Joseph's col- lege, one hundred and fifty pupils ; the 368 PECK'S GUIDE. female academy of Loretto, Washington county, with accommodation for one hundred boarders, and directed by the " Sisters of Mary at the foot of the cross." This order have six other places for country schools, and are said to be one hundred and thirty-five in number. The Convent of Holy Mary, and the Monastery of St. Magdalene, at St. Rose, Washington county, by Dominican nuns, fif- teen in number, and in 1831, thirty pupils. The Catholics have a female academy at Lexington, with one hundred pupils. I have no data to show the Roman Catholic population of this State, but it is by no means proportionate to the formidable machinery here exhibited. All this array of colleges, seminaries, monasteries, convents and nun- neries is for the work of proselyting, and if they are not successful, it only shows that the current of popular sentiment sets strongly in another direction. 4. Vincennes. This is a new diocess, re- cently carved out of Indiana and Illinois, by the authority of an old gentleman, who lives in the city of Rome! It includes a dozen chapels, four or five priests, the St. Claire convent at Vincennes, with several other ap- pendages. The Roman Catholic population of this State is not numerous, probably not exceeding 3000. Illinois has about 5000, a part of which is under the jurisdiction of St. Louis diocess. In Illinois, there are ten churches and six priests, a part of which are LITERARY INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 369 included in the diocess of Indiana. A con- vent of nans of the " Visitation of the blessed Virgin Mary," at Kaskaskia, who conduct a female school, with a few boarders and about thirty or forty day scholars. 5. St. Loids. This diocess includes eight- een congregations and nineteen priests, with the following appendages: 1. St. Louis Uni- versity, already noticed, with six priests, for instructers, and one hundred and fifty students, of which, about eighty are boarders. The rules require their attendance on morning and evening prayers, the catechism, and divine service on Sundays and holidays. 2. St. Mary's college, also noticed in our description of colleges. 3. Noviciate for Jesuits under St. Stanislaus, in St. Louis county. Of female institutions there are, 1. Con- vent of the "Ladies of the Sacred Heart ^ at St. Louis; 2. another of the same description, and their noviciate, at Florrissant; 3. another of the same order at St. Charles; 4. a female academy at Carondalet, six miles below St. Louis, by the " Sisters of Charily;" 5. a con- vent and academy of the " Sisters of Loreito," at New Madrid; 6. a convent and female academy at Frederickstown, under supervision of a priest; 7. a convent and female academy of the " Sisters of Loretto," in Perry county. The Roman Catholic population in Missouri does not exceed 15,000. Their pupils of both sexes, may be estimated at seven hundred. To the above may be added the hospital, and 16* 370 the asylum for boys, in St. Louis, under the management of the Sisters of Charity. Roman Catholic teachers, usually foreign- ers, disperse themselves through the country, and engage in teaching primary schools; availing themselves of intercourse with the families of their employers to instruct them in the dogmas of their religion. The greatest success that has attended the efforts of the priests in converting others, has been during the prevalence of the cholera, and especially after collapse and insensibility had seized the person! We know of more than sixty Roman Catholics who have been converted to the faith of Christ, and joined Christian churches within three or four years past, in this State. 6. JVeto Orleans. The Roman Catholics in Louisiana are numerous, probably including one third of the population. Relatively, Protestants are increasing, as a large propor- tion of the emigration from the other States, who care any thing about religion, are Pro- testants. There are twenty-six congregations, and twenty-seven priests with several con- vents, female seminaries, asylums, &c. 7. Mobile. A splendid cathedral has been commenced here. This diocess extends into Florida. CHAPTER XVtl. SUGGESTIONS TO EMIGRANTS. Canal, Steam-Boat and Stage Routes Other Modes of Travel- Expenses Roads, Distances, &c., &c. IN the concluding chapter to this GUIDE, it is proposed to give such information as is always desirable to emigrants upon removing, or traveling for any purpose, to the West. 1. Persons in moderate circumstances, or who would save time and expense, need not make a visit to the West, to ascertain partic- ulars previous to removal. A few general facts, easily collected from a hundred sources, will enable persons to decide the great ques- tion, whether they will emigrate to the Valley. By the same means, emigrants may determine to what State, and to what part of that State, their course shall be directed. There are many things that a person of plain, common sense will take for granted without inquiry, such as facilities for obtaining all the necessa- ries of life; the readiness with which property of any description may be obtained for a fair 372 PECK'S GUIDE. value, and especially farms and wild land; that they can live where hundreds of thousands of others of similar habits and feelings live; and above all, they should take it for granted, that there are difficulties to be encountered in every country, and in all business; that these difficulties can be surmounted with reasonable effort, patience and perseverance, and that in every country, people sicken and die. 2. ^Having decided to what State and part of the State, an emigrant will remove, let him then conclude to take as little furniture and other luggage as he can do with, especially if he comes by public conveyances. Those who reside within convenient distance of a sea port, would find it both safe and economi- cal to ship by New Orleans, in boxes, such articles as are not wanted on the road, espe- cially if they steer for the navigable waters of the Mississippi. Bed and other clothing, books, &,c., packed in boxes, like merchants* goods, will go much safer and cheaper by New Orleans, than by any of the inland routes. I have received more than one hundred packages and boxes from eastern ports, by that route, within twenty years, and never lost one. Boxes should be marked to the owner or his agent at the river port where destined, and to the charge of some forwarding house in New Orleans. The freight and charges may be paid when the boxes are received. SUGGESTONS TO EMIGRANTS. 373 3. If a person designs to remove to the north part of Ohio and Indiana, to Chicago and vicinity, or to Michigan, or Green Bay, his course should he by the New York canal, and the lakes. The following table, showing the time of the opening of the canal at Albany and Buffalo, and the opening of the lake, from 1827 to 1835, is from a report of a com- mittee at Buffalo to the common council of that city. It will be of use to those who wish to take the northern route in the spring. Year. Canal opened Canal opened at Buffalo. at Albany. Lake Eric opened at Buffalo. 1827 April 21 April 21 April 21 1828 1 1 1 1829 25 29 May 10 1830 15 20 April 6 1831 16 16 May 8 1832 18 25 April 27 1833 22 22 23 1834 16 17 " 6 1835 15 15 May 8 The same route will carry emigrants to Cleaveland, and by the Ohio canal, to Co- lumbus, or to the Ohio river, at Portsmouth; from whence, by steam-boat, direct commu- nications will offer to any river port in the Western States. From Buffalo, steam-boats run constantly (when the lake is open), to Detroit, stopping at Erie, Ashtabula, Cleave- land, Sandusky and many other ports, from whence stages run to every prominent town. Transportation-wagons are employed in for- warding goods. 374 PECK S GUIDE. Route from Buffalo to Detroit, by water. Mites. Dunkirk, N.Y 39 Portland, " .... 18 57 Erie, Pa 3592 Ashtabula, Ohio, . 39131 Fairport, " . 32163 Miles. Cleaveland, Ohio,. 30 193 Sandusky, " . 54247 Amherstburg, N.C. 52299 Detroit, Mich.,. . . 18317 From Detroit to Chicago, Illinois. Miles. St. Clair river, Mich., . 40 Palmer, 1757 Fort Gratiot, 1471 White Rock, 40111 Thunder Island, . .70181 Middle Island, ...25206 Presque Isle, .... 65271 Miles. Mackinaw*. '.. .... 58 329 Isle Brule,. 1 ... .75 404 Fort Howard, Wis- consin Ter.,. . .100 504 Milwaukee, W.T.310 814 Chicago, 111., . . . 90904 Fron Cleaveland to Portsmouth, via. the Ohio canal. Miles. Cuyahoga aqueduct, 22 Old Portage, 12 34 Akron, ,4 38 New Portage, .... 5 43 Clinton, 11 54 Massillon, 11 65 Bethlehem, 671 Bolivar, 879 Zoar, 382 Dover, 789 New Philadelphia, . 4 93 Newcomers 'town, 22 115 Coshocton,. . . 17 132 Miles. Irville, 26158 Newark, 13171 Hebron, 10181 Licking Summit,. . 5 186 Lancaster Canaan, 11 197 Columbus, side cut, 18 215 Bloomfield, 8223 Circleville, 9232 Chillicothe, 23255 Piketon, 25 280 Lucasville, 14294 Portsmouth, (Ohio river), 13307 The' most expeditious, pleasant and direct route for travelers to the southern parts of Ohio and Indiana; to the Illinois river, as far north as Peoria; to the Upper Mississippi, as SUGGESTIONS TO EMIGRANTS. 375 far as Quincy, Rock island, Galena and Prairie du Chien ; to Missouri, and to Kentucky, Ten- nessee, Arkansas, Natchez and New Orleans, is one of the southern routes. These are, 1. From Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, by rail- roads and the Pennsylvania canal; 2. By the Baltimore and Ohio rail-road and stages, to Wheeling; or, 3. For people living to the south of Washington, by stage, by the way of Charlottesville, (Virginia,) Staunton, the Hot, Warm, and White-Sulphur Springs, Lewis- burg, Charlestown, to Guyandotte, from whence a regular line of steam-boats runs three times a week to Cincinnati. Inter- mediate routes from Washington city to Wheeling, or to Harper's Ferry, to Fred- ericksburg, and intersect the route through Virginia, at Charlottesville. From Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, by the rail-road and canal. Miles. Petersburg, 8 221 Alexandria, 23244 Frankstown and Hol- lidaysburg, .... 3 247 From thence, by rail-road, across the mountain, to Johnstown, 38 285 By canal, to Blairsville, 35320 Saltzburg 18338 Warren, 12350 Alleghany river, . .16 366 Pittsburgh, 28394 Miles. Columbia,on theSus- quehanna river, by rail-road, daily,. ... 81 By canal packets, to Bainbridge, 1192 Middietown, Harrisburg, . . Juniata river, . Millerstown, . Mifflin, Lewistown, . Waynesburg, . Harni tonville, , Huntingdon, . 17109 .10119 .15144 .17151 . 17168 .13181 .14195 .11206 . 7213 376 PECK S GUIDE. The Pioneer line, on this route, is exclusive- ly for passengers, and professes to reach Pittsburgh in four days, but is sometimes behind, several hours. Fare through, $10. Passengers pay for meals. The Good-Intent line is also for passengers only, and runs in competition with the Pioneer line. Leech's line, called the " Western Trans- portation line," takes both freight arid pas- sengers. The packet-boats advertise to go through, to Pittsburgh, in five days, for $7. Midship and steerage passengers in the transportation line, in six and a half days, merchandise delivered in eight days. Gen- erally, however, there is some delay. Emi- grants must not expect to carry more than a small trunk or two, on the packet-lines. Those who take goods or furniture, and wish to keep with it, had better take the transport- ation lines, with more delay. The price of meals on board the boats is about thirty-seven and a half cents. In all the steam-boats on the Western wa- ters no additional charge is made to cabin pas- sengers for meals; and the tables are usually profusely supplied. Strict order is observed, and the waiters and officers are attentive. Steam-boat route from Pittsburgh to the mouth of the Ohio. Miles. Middletown> Pa 11 Economy, "... 819 Beaver "... 1029 Georgetown," ...13 42 Miles. Steubenville, Ohio,. 27 69 Wellsburgh, Va., . . 776 Warren, Ohio, .... 682 Wheeling, Va., ... 1092 SUGGESTIONS TO EMIGRANTS. 377 Miles. Elizabethlown, Va.,1 1103 Sistersville, " .34 137 Newport, Ohio, . .27 164 Marietta, " ...14178 Parkersburgh, Va, . 1 1189 Belpre and Blanner- hasset Island, O., 4193 Troy, Ohio, 10 203 Belleville, Va., 7210 Letart's Rapids, " 37 247 Point Pleasant, " 27 274 Gatlipolis, Ohio,. . 4278 Guyandotte, Va.,. 27305 Burlington, Ohio, .10 315 Greensburg, Ky., .19334 Concord, Ohio, . . . 12 34f> Portsmouth (Ohio ca- nal), 7353 Vanceburg, Ky.,..20 373 Manchester, Ohio, 16389 MayscUle, Ky., . .11400 Charleston, " ... 4 404 Ripley, Ohio,. . . . 6 410 Augusta, Ky., . . . 8 418 Neville, Ohio, 7 425 Moscow, " 7 432 Point Pleasant, " 4436 New Richmond," 7443 Columbia, 15 458 Fulton, " 6 564 CINCINNATI, " 2 466 North Bend, " 15481 Lawrenceburgh, Tnd. and mouth of the Miami, 8489 Aurora, Ind.,. . . . 2 491 Petersburg, Ky., . . 2 493 Bellevue, . . 8501 Rising Sun, Ind., . 2503 Fredericksburg,Ky.l8 521 17 Miles. Vevay, Ind., and Ghent, Ky., ...11532 Port William, Ky., 8540 Madison, Ind., 15 555 New London, " 12 567 Pethlehem, " 8576 Westport, Ky., 7582 Transylvania, " 15 595 LOUISVILLE, 12 609 Shippingport, through the canal,. . . . 2 New Albany, Ind.,l 613 Salt River, Ky., . .23636 Northampton, Ind., 18 654 Leavenworth, " .17 671 Fredonia, " . 2 673 Rome, " .32705 Troy, " .25730 Kockport, " .16746 Gwenburgh, Ky., .12758 Evansville, Tnd., .36794 Henderson, Ky., . .12806 Mount Vernon, Ind. 28 834 Carthage, Ky., 12 846 Wabash river, " . 7853 Shawneetvwn, 111., 11 864 Mouth of Saline, 12876 Cave in F.ock, " 10 886 Golconda, " 19905 Smithland, mouth of the Cumberland river, Ky.,. . . . 10 915 Paducah, mouth of . the Tennessee river, Ky.,. . . .13928 Caledonia, 111., . . 31959 Trinity, mouth of Cash river, 111., .10969 MOUTH OF THE OHIO RIVER,.. 6 975 378 PECK'S GUIDE. Persons who wish to visit Indianopolis will stop at Madison, Indiana, and take the stage conveyance. From Louisville, by the way of Vincennes, to St. Louis by stage, every al- ternate day, two hundred and seventy-three miles, through in three days and a half. Fare $17. Stages run from Vincennes to Terre Haute and other towns up the Wabash river. At Epansville, Indiana, stage lines are connected with Vincennes arid Terre Haute; and at Shawneetown twice a week to Carlyle, Illinois, where it intersects the line from Louisville to St. Louis. From Louisville to Nashville by steam-boats, passengers land at Southland at the mouth of Cumberland river, unless they embark direct for Nashville. In the ivinter, both stage and stearn-boat lines are uncertain and irregular. Ice in the rivers frequently obstructs navigation, and high waters and bad roads sometimes prevent stages from running regularly. Farmers who remove to the West from the Northern and Middle States, will find it ad- vantageous, in many instances, to remove with their own teams and wagons. These they will need on their arrival. Autumn, or from September till November, is the favor- able season for this mode of emigration. The roads are then in good order, the weather usually favorable, and feed plenty. People of all classes, from the States south of the Ohio river, remove with large wagons, carry and cook their own provisions, purchase their SUGGESTIONS TO EMIGRANTS. 379 feed by the bushel, and invariably encamp out at night. Individuals who wish to travel through the interior of Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Mis- souri, &c., -will find that the most convenient, sure, 'economical and independent mode is on horseback. Their expenses will be from sev- enty-five cents to one dollar fifty cents per day, and they can always consult their own con- venience and pleasure as to time and place. Stage fare is usually six cents per mile, in the West. Meals, at stage-houses, are thirty- seven .nd a half cents. Steam-boat Fare^ including Meals. From Pittsburgh to Cincinnati, .. . . $10 " Cincinnati to Louisville, 4 " Louisville to St. Louis, 12 And frequently the same from Cincinnati to St. Louis, varying a little, however. A deck passage, as it is called, may be rated as follows: From Pittsburgh to Cincinnati, $3 " Cincinnati to Louisville, 1 " Louisville to St. Louis, 4 The deck for such passengers is usually in the midship, forward of the engine, and is protected from the weather. Passengers fur- nish their own provisions and bedding. They often take their meals at the cabin table, with the boat-hands, and pay twenty-five cents a meal. Thousands pass up and down the riv- ers as deck passengers, especially emigrating 380 PECK'S GUIDE. families, who have their bedding, provisions and cooking utensils on board. The whole expense of a single person from New York to St. Louis, by the way of Phila- delphia and Pittsburgh, with cabin passage on the river, will range between $40 and $45; time from twelve to fifteen days. Taking the transportation lines on the Penn- sylvania canal, and a deck passage in the steam-boat, arid the expenses will range be- tween $20 and $25, supposing the person buys his meals at twenty-five cents, and eats twice a day. If he carry his own provisions, the passage, &.C., will be from $15 to $18. The following is from an advertisement of the Western Transportation, or Leech's line, from Philadelphia: Miles. Days. Fare. Fare to Pittsburgh, 400 .... 6 .... $6 00 * Cincinnati, .... 900. ... 8^ .... 8 50 " Louisville, 1050. ... 9^ .... 9 00 " Nashville, 1650 .... 13^ .... 13 00 " St. Louis, . . . . . 1750 .... 14 .... 13 00 The above does not include meals. Packet-boats for Cabin Passengers (same line.} Miles. Days. Fare. Fare to Pittsburgh, .... 400 5 .f 7 00 " Cincinnati, .... 900 8. ... 17 00 " Louisville, 1050 9. ... 19 00 " Nashville, ... .1650 13.... 2700 " St. Louis, 1750 13.... 2700 Emigrants and travelers will find it to their interest always to be a little skeptical rela- SUGGESTIONS TO EMIGRANTS. 381 tive to statements of stage, steam and canal- boat agents, to make some allowance in their own calculations for delays, difficulties and expenses and above all, to feel perfectly pa- tient and in good humor with themselves, the officers, company, and the world, even if they do not move quite as rapid and fare quite as well as they desire, GOULD, KENDALL & LINCOLN, PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS, AND STATIONERS, 59 Wtt*!tiHffton Street....]BOST'OJY. G., K. & L. keep a general assortment of Books in the various departments of Literature, Science and Theology. Among the many valuable worka which they publish, are the following for SCHOOLS: NEW WORK. THE AMERICAN EXPOSITOR, OR INTELLECT- UAL DEFINER. Designed for the use of Schools. By R. CLAGGETT, A. M., late principal of Central High School, Providence. Second edition. Although this work has been published hut a few months, a large edition ha* been called for, having been introduced into many of the first schools in New England. $3=From among the many recommendations received, we select the following : At a meeting of the School Committee of the City of Piovidence, holden at the Council Chamber, on Thursday, the 2bth of May, 1836, the following vote was passed unanimously : " Voted, That the hook recently published by Rufus Clagget, Esq., entitled 'The American Expositor, or Intellectual Detiner,' be intro- duced into all the public Writing Schools in this city." A true copy, Attest, WM. APLIN, Snc'y. " The American Expositor, or Intellectual Dcfiner," having come under my notice, I take pleasure in saying, that I deem it a valuable acquisition ItJ our school classics; and shall be happy to do what 1 can to facilitate its general introduction into schools. SAMUEL A1SGELL, Principal of Seekonk Seminary, Providence. 1 think " The American Expositor" well calculated to answer the intended purpose of its author. C. SOULE CARTER, Young Ladies' High School, Union St., Providence. WAYLAND'S ELEMENTS OF MORAL SCI- ENCE. Abridged, and adapted to the Use of Schools and Academies, by the Author, FRANCIS WAYLAND, D. D., President of Brown University, and Professor of Moral Philosophy. The publishers would respectfully request the attention of Teach- ers and School Committees to this valuable work ; it has received the unqualified approbation of all who have examined it; and it is believed admirably calculated to exert a wholesome influence on the minds of the young. Such an influence as will be likely to lead them to the formation of correct moral principles. Works published by Gould, Kendall 8f Lincoln. ROMAN ANTIQUITIES AND ANCIENT MY- THOLOGY. By CHARLES K. DILLAWAY, A. M., Principal in the Boston Public Latin School. Illustrated by elegant engravings. Third edition, improved. BLAKE'S NATURAL PHILOSOPHY. New edi- tion, enlarged. Being Conversations on Philosophy, with the addition of Explanatory Notes, Questions for Examin- ation and a Dictionary of Philosophical Terms. With twenty-eight steel engravings. By Rev. J. L. BLAKE, A. M. BLAKE'S FIRST BOOK IN ASTRONOMY. De- signed for the Use of Common Schools. Illustrated by steel plate engravings. By Rev. J. L. BLAKE, A. M. FIRST LESSONS IN INTELLECTUAL PHILOS- OPHY; or, a Familiar Explanation of the Nature and Operations of the Human Mind. Second edition. Edited by Rev. SILAS BLAISDALE. One volume, 12mo. 360 pages. YOUNG LADIES' CLASS BOOK. A Selection of Lessons for Reading, in Prose and Verse. By EBENE- ZER BAILEY, A. M., Principal of the Young Ladies' High School, Boston. Thirteenth stereotype edition. ICJ 2 " Price reduced. PALEY'S THEOLOGY. Eighth edition, illustrated by Forty Plates, and Selections from the Notes of Dr. Paxton, with additional Notes, original and selected, for this edition, with a Vocabulary of Scientific Terms. Ed- ited by an eminent physician of Boston. CLASS BOOK OF NATURAL THEOLOGY; or, the Testimony of Nature to the Being, Perfections and Government of God. By the Rev. HENRY FERGUS; revised, enlarged, and adapted to Paxton's Illustrations; with Notes, selected and original, Biographical Notices, and a Vocabulary of Scientific Terms. By CHARLES HENRY ALDEN, A. M., Principal of the Philadelphia High School for Young Ladies. UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS-URBANA 917.7P33N2 C001 A NEW GUIDE FOR EMIGRANTS TO THE WEST, C 3011