UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY \/ Class Book Volume mi st?v MrlO-20M IUJNQ1S RISTQRICH SURVEY Wk Y*ak i 1 THE N STATES AND TERRITORIES OP OUR WESTERN EMPIRE: EMBRACING THE HISTORY STATISTICS AND GEOGRAPHY OF THE TERRITORIAL REGIONS OF THE UNITED STATES, AND OP THE PRINCIPAL STATES AND CHIEF CITIES OF THE WEST THEIR CLIMATE, SOIL, PRODUCTIONS, MANUFACTURES, COMMERCE, INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS, POPULATION, ECT. ETC. COMPILED PROM THE LATEST AUTHORITIES. COLUMBUS: PUBLISIIED AND SOLD EXCLUSIVELY BY SUBSCRIPTION, BY J. ft II. MILLER. 185 7. ." T TABLE OF CONTENTS. Page. Washington Territory. — Boundaries — Face of Country — Mountains — Miner- als — Rivers, Bays, Sounds, and Islands — Objects of Interest to Tourists — Climate — Soil and Productions — Forest Trees — Animals — Internal Im- provements — Population — Counties — Towns — Government 465 Oregon Territory. — Boundaries — Face of Country — Mountains — Minerals — Rivers, Bays and Lakes — Objects of Interest to Tourists — Climate — Soil and Productions — Forest Trees — Animals — Manufactures — Commerce — Internal Improvements — Education— Religious Denominations — Population — Counties — Towns — Government and History. 469 California. — Boundaries and Extent — Face of the Country — Geology — Bays, Rivers, Lakes, etc. — Objects of Interest to Travelers — Climate, Soil and Productions — Forest Trees — Animals — Manufactures — Commerce — Inter- nal Improvements — Education — Religion — Public Institutions — Population — Counties, Cities and Towns — Government, Finances, etc. — History — San Francisco described — Statistics of its Commerce — Total Produce of Cali- fornia Gold — Population and History — Sacramento City described 475 Territory of Utah. — Its Boundaries — Face of the Country, Geology, etc. — Lakes and Rivers — Objects of Interest — Climate, Soil and Productions — Forest Trees — Animals — Manufactures — Commerce — Education — Religion — Counties, Cities and Towns — Population — Government — History — Salt Lake City, the Capital 490 Territory of New Mexico. — Boundaries — Face of the Country — Minerals — Rivers — Interesting Objects — Climate, Soil and Productions — Forest Trees — Animals — Manufactures — Education — Religious Denominations — Periodicals — Population — Counties and Towns — Government — History — Santa Fe 496 Texas. — Boundaries — Face of the Country — Geology — Minerals — Risers, Bays and Sounds — Objects of Interest to Tourists — Climate, Soil and Pro- ductions — Animals — Manufactures — Internal Improvements — Commerce — Religious Denominations — Public Institutions — Periodicals — Population — Counties, Cities and Towns — Government — History — Galveston 502 Indian Territory. — Its Extent and Boundaries — Face of the Country — Rivers — Climate, Soil and Productions — Animals — Population 512 Territory of Kansas. — Its Extent — Face of the Country — Rivers — Objects . of Interest — Minerals — Forest Trees — Zoology — Forts and Stations — Popu- lation — Indian Tribes — Government and History 514 Territory of Nebraska. — Boundaries — Face of the Country — Rivers — Objects of Interest — Climate, Soil and Timber — Animals — Commerce — Forts and Stations — Population — Indian Tribes — History 517 Territory of Minnesota. — Boundaries — Face of Country — Geology — Minerals — Lakes and Rivers — Objects of Interest to Tourists — Climate, Soil and Productions — Forest Trees — Animals — Manufactures — Internal Improve- ments — Commerce — Education — Public Institutions Population — Coun- ties — Government — History — St. Paul 522 Region of Lake Superior. — Its Area — Navigation of the Lake — Phenomena — Mirage of the Lake — Islands — Lake Coast — Table of Distances — La Grand Sables — Pictured Rocks — Rivers — Minerals — Iron Regions — Agri- .*^7Crf«y* 1 4 CONTENTS. cultural Lands — Copper Regions — Mining Companies — Climate, Soil and Productions . 531 The Rocky Mountains. — Extent — Peaks — Branches — Plateaus — Passes — Ge- ology — Volcanic Rocks — Hot Springs, etc 547 Wisconsin. — Boundaries — Face of Country — Geology — Minerals — Lakes and Rivers — Objects of Interest — Climate, Soil and Productions — Forest Trees — Animals — Manufactures' — Commerce — Internal Improvements — Educa- tion — Religious Denominations — Periodicals — Public Institutions — Popula- tion — Counties, Cities and Towns — Government, Finances, Banks, etc. — History — Milwaukee — Racine — Madison — Kenosha 550 Illinois. — Boundaries — Face of Country, etc. — Minerals — Rivers — Objects of Interest — Climate, Soil and Productions — Forest Trees — Manufactures — Internal Improvements — Commerce — Education — Religion — Periodicals — Public Iustitutions — Population — Counties, Cities and Towns — Govern- ment — History — Chicago — Its Commerce and Manufactures — Quiucy — Peoria — Galena — Alton 562 Indiana. — Boundaries — Face of Country — Minerals — Rivers and Lakes — Objects of Interest — Climate, Soil and Productions — Census Statistics — Manufactures — Internal Improvements — Commerce — Education — Religious Denominations — Periodicals — Public Institutions — Population — Counties, Cities and Towns — Government — Banks and Finances — History — India- napolis — Madison — New Albany — Fort Wayne — Lafayette 574 Iowa . — Boundaries — Face of Country — Geology — Minerals — Rivers — Objects of Interest — Climate, Soil and Productions — Forest Trees — Manufactures — Internal Improvements — Commerce — Education — Periodicals — Public In- stitutions — Population — Counties, Cities and Towns — Government — Finan- ces, Banks, etc. — History — Iowa City — Burlington — Dubuque — Davenport — Keokuk — Muscatine — Council Bluffs— Fort Des Moines — Fort Madison. 583 Missouri. — The Missouri River described — Boundaries of the State — Face of the Country — Minerals — Coal — Rivers — Objects of Interest — Climate, Soil and Productions — Forest and Fruit Trees — Manufactures — Internal Im- provements — Commerce — Education — Religion — Public Institutions — Population — Counties, Cities and Towns — Government — Finances — His- tory — St. Louis — Its Streets, Public Buildings, Hotels, Institutions, Real Estate, Improvements, Manufactures, Shipping, Commerce and History — St. Josephs — Hannibal — Jefferson City — Independence, etc 592 Arkansas. — Boundaries — Face of Country — Objects of Interest — Climate, Soil and Productions — Manufactures — Internal Improvements — Commerce — Population — Counties, Cities and towns — Government — Finances — History Little Rock — Van Buren — Camden — Batesville 610 Tennessee. — Boundaries — Face of the Country — Minerals — Objects of Interest — Climate, Soil and Productions — Manufactures — Internal Improvements — Commerce — Education — Religion — Public Institutions — Population — Counties, Cities and Towns — Government — Finances — History — Nashville — Memphis — Kuoxville — Chattanooga — Columbia — Murfreesborough 618 Kentucky. — Boundaries — Face of the Country — Geology — Minerals — Rivers — Objects of Interest — Climate, Soil and Productions — Manufactures — Com- merce — Internal Improvements — Education — Religion — Public Institutions — Population — Counties, Cities and Towns — Government — Finances — His- tory — Louisville — Lexington 628 Tables of Distances from East to West ... 635 STATES AND TERRITORIAL REGIONS. WASHINGTON TERRITORY. This territory occupies the extreme north-west portion of the domain of the United States. It is bounded on the north by the Straits of Juan de Fuca (which separate it from Vancouver's island) and British America, east by the Rocky mountains, south by Oregon, (the Columbia river forming about half the boundary line,) and west by the Pacific ocean. It lies (with the exception of a small bend in the Columbia river) between 46° and 49° north latitude, and between 110° and 125° west longitude; being about 600 miles in its greatest length from east to west, and about 209 in width from north to south, forming nearly a parallelo- gram, with an area of perhaps 123,022 square miles. Face of the Country and Mountains. — The same general description of the surface as given in Oregon will apply to "Washington, except that the Blue mountain range is more broken and scattered north of the Columbia river. The principal peaks of the Cascade range in this division are Mount St. Helen's, Mount Adams, Mount Rainier, and Mount Baker. Mount Olympus, the highest peak of the Coast range, has an elevation of 8,197 feet. Most of these peaks are clothed with perpetual snow. Mount St. Helen's and Mount Rainier have been respectively estimated at 13,300 and 12,000 feet elevation. Minerals. — There has been little opportunity as yet to develop the min- eral resources of this new territory. Coal has, however, been discovered on or near Bellingham bay, accompanied by the new red sandstone, which furnishes a fine building material, 20 or 30 miles up the Cowlitz river, and in the region about Puget's sound, in abundance. Fossil copal exists on the shores of the Pacific, north of the Columbia river. Rivers, Bays, Sounds, and Islands. — The Columbia river enters the territory from British America, and crosses it first in a south-west "and then in a south direction, till it arrives a little below 46° north latitude, when it turns westwardly and forms the south boundary, from the point just named to its mouth in the Pacific ocean. This river divides Washington Territory into two parts, having the larger portion on the east; the Okanagan, from British America, is its principal branch on the north, and Yakima in the southern part of the territory: both of these rivers enter the 30 465 466 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. Columbia from the west. On the east, proceeding in order southwardly, its tributaries are the Flathead or Clarke's, Spokane, Saptin or Lewis, and Walla Walla rivers. The Clarke's and Lewis are large rivers, having their sources in the Rocky mountains, all run in a north-west direction. The Lewis and Walla Walla have the principal part of their courses in Oregon. The Spokane drains the middle of the east division ; McGillivray's or Flatbow drains the north-east part of Washington, and joins the Columbia in British America. The Cowlitz, the principal branch of the Columbia west of the Cascade range, has a course of perhaps 100 miles. Chekalis or Chickalees, about 130 miles long, is the only river of importance discharging its waters directly into the Pacific from this territory, except the Columbia. The Straits of Juan de Fuca, between Washington and Vancouver's island, connect the Pacific ocean with Admiralty inlet, Puget's sound and Hood's canal, all arms of a great bay extending about 60 or 70 miles in a south direction from the Gulf of Georgia, and all navigable for the largest ships which may moor to the very banks, such is the precipitousness of its shores. Gray's harbor, an expansion at the mouth of the Chekalis river, in about 47° north latitude, has capacity for only a small amount of shiping. The Columbia, though navigable for ocean craft to the Cascades, is much obstructed near its mouth by sandbars and shallows, which make the navigation difficult, and have caused the loss of many vessels. The rest of this, as well as other rivers in Washington, are only navigable by boats and canoes, being much obstructed by rapids and falls. The principal of these are Kettle falls, in the Columbia river, just below the mouth of Clarke's river. Shoalwater bay, south of Gray's harbor, opens into the Pacific by a narrow inlet. Bellingham bay is an arm of the Gulf of Georgia near the north-west extremity of Washington. A large lake, surrounded by extensive prairies, is reported to have been found some 10 or 20 miles back from the bay. Elliott bay is on the east side of Admiralty inlet. There are several lakes in Washington, mostly in the eastern portion, near the foot of the Rocky mountains, among which is Flathead lake, one of the sources of Clark's river, and Lake Kullespelm an expansion of the same river. The rivers of Washington, particularly west of the Cascade mountains, having their sources in those snowy summits, are liable to sudden floods, which inundate the lowlands on their shores. The rapids and falls abound in splendid sites for mill-seats. Cape Flattery, the entrance of Juan de Fuca straits, and Cape Disap- pointment, within the entrance of the Columbia river, are the principal capes. There are no large islands on this coast. The most important is Destruction, or Isle of Grief, about 40 miles south of Cape Flattery. In Admiralty inlet is Whidby's island, about 40 miles long, covered with fertile prairies, and noted for its deer. It has sufficient timber, but a scarcity of water. North-west of it are the Arroo islands, so valuable for their fisheries. Objects of Interests to Tourists. — Washington shares with Oregon the grand scenery on the Columbia, the Cascades, the Dalles, and other interesting points. Here the lofty summits of Mount St. Helen's, Mount Adams, Mount Rainier, and Mount Baker rear their snowy peaks from the Cascade range, and Mount Olympus from the WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 46 1 } Coast mountains. According to the Rev. G. Hiues, "Mount St. Helen's, in the month of October, 1842, was observed to be covered with a dense cloud of smoke, which continued to enlarge and move off to the eastward filling the heavens in that direction, and presenting an appearance like that occasioned by a tremendous conflagration, viewed at a vast distance. When the first volumes of smoke had passed away, it could be distinctly seen from various parts of the country that an eruption had taken place on the north side of St. Helen's, a little below the summit; and, from the smoke that continued to issue from the chasm or crater, it was pro- nounced to be a volcano in active operation. When the explosion took place, the wind was north-west, and on the same day, and extending from 30 to 50 miles to the south-east, there fell showers of ashes or dust, which covered the ground in some places so as to admit of its being collected in quantities. This last phenomenon has been of frequent occurrence, and has led many to suppose that volcanic eruptions are not uncommon in this country." Climate, Soil, and Productions. — The climate is very similar to that of Oregon, with some variations caused by difference of latitude and local peculiarities. The same may be said of the soil. The Cowlitz valley is the most fertile portion of this territory, in which agriculture has been attempted. The Chekalis valley on the west, is said to have 400,000 acres of excellent prairie and heavily timbered land. The country immediately around Puget's sound is represented as sandy and unfertile, but producing large fir and cedar trees. On going, however, some distance back from the sound, you come upon fine prairies and forests, and small lakes filled with fine fish and skirted with timber. Whidby's Island is also very fertile, but deficient in water. There are reported to be rich valleys on the streams flowing into Bellingham bay. The valley of the Duwamish river, which flows into Elliott bay, is very fertile, and is rapidly settling. The lowlands bordering on the streams are very productive, and covered densely with timber. Mr. T. Winthrop, of New York, who left that region in September, 1853, speaks of the country between Puget's sound and the Cascade mountains as heavily timbered, chiefly with fir, with some scattered prairies and dry barrens, the latter covered with pebbles of trap-rock, and sparsely wooded with oak. Across the mountains, the land is open prairie, well watered, with small and thinly wooded valleys. The country to the north of this, belonging to the Flatheads, Mr. W. reports as more abundant in timber and well adapted to settlements. The arable land in Washington Terri- tory, west of the Columbia river, is estimated at 22,000 square miles. Its Governor thus spoke of its resources in January, 1854 : — " You are unquestionably rightly informed as to the maritime advantages of Puget's sound, in affording a series of harbors almost unequaled in the world for capacity, safety, and facility of access; nor need you be told of their neighborhood to what are now the best whaling grounds of the Pacific. It is, however, only recently that the settlement of this part of our country has commenced to develop its resources, or to show the advan- tage which may be derived from its position, and it is these points which I desire to bring to your notice. That portion of Washington Territory 468 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. lying between the Cascade mountains and the ocean, although equaling in richness of soil and ease of transportation the best portion of Oregon, is heavily timbered, and time and labor are required for clearing its forests and opening the earth to the production of its fruits. The great body of the country on the other hand, stretching eastward from that range to the Rocky mountains, while it contains many fertile valleys and much good land suited to the farmer, is yet more especially a grazing country, one which, as population increases, promises in its cattle, its horses, and above all, its wool, to open a new and vast field to American enterprise. But in the mean time the staple of the land must continue to he the one which nature herself has planted, in the inexhaustible forests of fir, of spruce, and of cedar. Either in furnishing manufactured timber or spars of the first description for vessels, Washington Territory is unsurpassed by any portion of the Pacific coast." Forest Trees. — Washington abounds in fine timber. Here is the same species of gigantic fir tree which is found in Oregon and California, attaining a bight of nearly 300 feet, and from 8 to 12 feet in diameter. The hills and valleys in the eastern part of the territory, immediately west of the Rocky mountains, are stated to be covered with a heavy growth of the finest timber. The forest trees around Puget's Sound are especial- ly large, and comprise yellow fir, cedar, maple, oak, ash, spruce, hemlock and alder. A recent correspondent states that there are at least 12 saw- mills at work, and 18 more in course of construction, and that there i3 lumber enough ready to freight a dozen ships. The cedar tree of this region is represented as differing in some respects from either the red or white cedar of New England, though resembling both. Animals. — The forests abound in game and wild animals; among the latter are the elk, deer, bear, fox, otter, beaver, muskrat, and rabbit ; and among birds, swans, geese, brant, gulls, ducks, eagles, grouse, pheasants, partridges, woodcock, hawks, ravens, and robins. Perhaps no region on the globe more abounds in fish than Washington. This is especially true of Puget's sound and the adjoining waters. Cod, mackerel, halibut, herring, and flounders ; and of shell-fish, the oyster, crab, clam, lobster, and many other species are found. The salmon resort to the Columbia and its tributaries in immense shoals. Internal Improvements. — A road is now being opened from Puget's sound to Walla Walla on the Columbia river, and from thence by the Cceur dAlene Mission to St. Mary's valley. The emigrants, says Mr. Winthrop, partially succeeded, in 1853, in cutting a road through the pass of the Cascade mountains north of Mount Rainier. The exploring party under Governor Stevens have recently found, near the sources of Maria's river, a pass suitable for a railroad, estimated to be 2500 feet lower than the South Pass of Fremont. The same party state that they found on the west side of the Rocky mountains, beau- tiful rivers, and valleys of extraordinary fertility, covered with a luxuri- ant growth of magnificent forest trees. Captain McClelland has discov- ered two passes through the Cascade range practicable for a railroad. Population. — Of its population we have no separate statistics. There are several tribes of Indians, among which are the Flatheads, Pend OREGON TERRITORY. 469 d'Oreilles, Coeur d'Alenes, Spokanes, and Nez Perces, most of whom are friendly, and those on Puget's sound partially civilized. They are in constant intercourse with the whites, farming and raising potatoes, which, with the salmon, constitute their food. Counties. — Washington is divided into 15 counties, which, with their county towns, are exhibited in the following Table : County. County Seal. County. County Seat. 1. Chehalis Bruceville. 2. Clallam Port Discovery. 3. Clark Columbia city. 4. CowlitsorCowelitz. .Monticello. 5. IslajR Pennscove. 6. Jefferson Port Townsend. 7. King Seattle. 8. Lewis Cowlitz' landing Towns. — Olympia, the capital, is situated at the head of Puget's sound. The other more important towns or settlements are Nesqually, Steilacoom, New York, Seattle, Port Townsend, and New Dungeness, on Puget's sound and Admiralty inlet ; Pacific city, Cathlamet, Monticello, Fort Vancouver, and Cascade city, on the Columbia river; Cowlitz forms and Wabassport, on or near the Cowlitz river, and Pennscove, on Whiddy's island. Government. — The government is in all respects similar to that of Oregon, which see. Its history is also identical with that of Oregon, from which it was separated and formed into a distinct territory in 1853. 9. Pacific Pacific city. 10. Pierce Steilacoom. 11. Skamania Cascades. 12. Thurston Olympia. 13. Wahkiacuni Chenook. 14. Walla Walla Walla Walla. 15. Whatcom Belliugham bay. OREGON TERRITORY. This territory, forming the most western portion of the domain of the United States, as restricted by the recent Act of Congress, creating the Territory of Washington, is bounded on the north by Washington Territory, (from which it is separated by the Columbia river and the 46th parallel of north latitude;) east by the Rocky mountains, which divide it from Nebraska ; south by Utah Territory and the State of California, and west by the Pacific ocean. It lies between 42° and 46° 20' north lat- itude, and between 109° 30' and 124° 30' west longitude, being about 750 miles in extreme length from east to west, and 278 miles in width, including an area of 185,030 square miles. •170 OREGON TERRITORY. Face of the Country, Mountains, etc. — Oregon is usually divided into three portions, viz : the Lower country, or portion next the ocean ; the Middle country, or that part which lies between the Cascade range and the Blue mountains; and the Upper country, or that portion which lies between the Blue and Rocky mountains. On approaching Oregon from the sea, it presents the same bold, iron-bound coast as California, but with this differ- ence, that the Coast range, instead of running parallel with the Pacific, is composed of a series of highlands, nearly at right angies with the shore, through whose valleys the streams of Callapuya or Callapooya mount aina (the western limit of the Willamette valley) descend to the ocean. The first section is about from 75 to 120 miles in breadth, and includes th^Willa- mette, Umpqua, and Rogue river valleys, the first running parallel with the sea, and the others at right angles to it. The last are south of the Willamette valley. The large valleys vary in length from 40 to 150 miles, and from 5 to 85 miles in width. One remarkable feature of the Willamette valley is the Buttes, high, conical, insulated hills, of about 1000 feet in hight. The Middle section covers a breadth of 160 miles, and is mostly an elevated plateau. The Upper country occupies the western slope of the Rocky mountains, and is mostly a sterile and dreary region, covered with lava, through which the rivers cut their channels to a great depth ; in many places their rocky beds are inaccessible to man or beast. Oregon may be emphatically called a mountainous country. Beginning at the east, we have the lofty summits of the Rocky mountains — reaching (in Fremont's peak) an elevation of 13,570 feet — separating the Mississippi valley from the Pacific region, and sending off spurs in a westerly direction. About half-way between the Rocky mountains and the Pacific are the Blue mountains, running nearly north and south, but still sending off ridges in different directions. These mountains some- times rise to the snow region, but are generally from 3,000 to 4,000 feet in hight. The Cascade range, having the loftiest known peaks of any mountains in the United States, extend from 60° north latitude (nearly parallel with the Pacific) to the southern part of Old California, at distances (in Oregon) varying from about 80 to 1-40 miles. Mount Hood, Mount Jefferson, Mount Pitt or McLaughlin are the principal peaks in Oregon, of which the first, 14,000 feet in elevation above the sea level, is the highest, and seems to be a dormant volcano. Finally comes the Coast range, called in Oregon the Callapooya mountains; these, as has been stated, send off spurs at right angles with the ocean. The Three Buttes and Three Tetons, about the bases of the Rocky moun- tains, are conical elevations of considerable magnitude. The Salmon mountains cross the middle of the eastern portion of Oregon in an east and west direction. Minerals. — The mineral resources of Oregon have scarcely begun to be developed; but gold has been found in various places, from Po^t Or- ford to Burnt and Powder rivers, but whether it exists in p >Ccient abundance to promise profitable returns is not yet fully ascertain' -4. The Secretary of the Treasury's report for 1854, gives $13,535 as tb • amount of gold deposited at the Mint, the product of Oregon. Frem' At found, in latitude 45^° north, longitude 122° west, a stratum of coal *nd forest OREGON TERRITORY. 471 trees embedded between strata of alternate clay. This mineral is also known to exist in Willamette valley, 100 miles above Oregon city. Rivers, Bats, and Lakes. — There is no very considerable bay in Oregon. The Columbia, the greatest river on the Pacific slope of the continent, forms half the northern boundary, from the point where it strikes the 46th parallel to its mouth in the Pacific ocean. Its great branch, the Snake or Lewis river, and its tributaries, the Salmon, Henry, Malheur, and Owyhee, drain the great valley between the Rocky and Blue mountains. " Lewis river rises in the south-east, and pursuing a north-west course about 900 miles, passes into Washington Territory, where k joins the Columbia soon after. The Walla Walla. Umatilla, John Day's, and Fall, east of the Cascade mountains, and the Willamette, west, are the other principal affluents of the Columbia from this territory. The Umpqua and Rogue's river (entirely in Oregon), and the Klamath, which passes into California, empty directly into the Pacific from the south-west of this territory. There are several small lakes between the Cascade and Blue mountains, and near the base of the Rocky mountains. The principal of the former are Klamath, Albert, Pitt's, Salt, and Synal- illes; and of the latter Godere and Jackson's. The Columbia is naviga- ble to the Cascade ran^e, about 130 miles from the sea, for large vessels, and above the Cascades for boats. The Willamette is navigable to Port- land, and sometimes even to the falls, for ocean craft. Above the falls, larse steamboats may run for 80 miles during 8 montbs. The Umpqua is navigable 25 miles for steamers, and vessels drawing 12 feet may enter its mouth. The Klamath is also navigable for a short distance. There are few capes or harbors on the coast of Oregon, whicb is remarkably free from great sinuosities. The most important capes are Cape Blanco or Orford, Cape Foulweather, and Point Adams. The harbors are the Columbia river, much obstructed by sandbars and shoals, but admitting vessels of 16 feet draugbt, and the Umpqua river, which may be ascended by vessels drawing 8 feet water for a short distance. Objects of Interest to Tourists. — What we bave already said of the mountains is perhaps sufficient, without tbis beading; but Oregon has other objects of interest independent of ber sublime mountain scenery — first among which are the Dalles of the Columbia river, a nar- rowing of the channel to 100 yards between basaltic rocks, for the dis- tance of half a mile, through which the river rushes with great violence, descending 50 feet in two miles. In freshets the water rises 60 feet, and at such times it is safe to pass in boats, but many serious accidents have occurred from attempts to pass them at low water. Forty miles below the Dalles, where the river breaks through the Cascade range, the chan- nel again narrows to 150 yards, where the water descends 40 feet in two miles. The falls of the Willamette, on the river of the same name, ar about 25 miles from its mouth, and the same number of feet in hight. Here is a favorite salmon fishery, where that fish is stopped on its course up the Willamette, in the spawning season. The American fall, in the Lewis river, near its head waters, is of considerable elevation. From one point in the Willamette valley, near the Rickreall river, seven peaks of the Cascade range, covered with everlasting snow, can be seen at one view. 472 OREGON TERRITORY Climate. — In common with the western shore of all continents, Oregon has a milder climate than the eastern side of North America. The coast region is the mildest, and the upper country the most rigorous in temperature. In the first, the winters generally are short, though some snow falls nearly every winter. South and south-west winds pre- vail at this season, mitigating the severity of the climate. From April to November but little rain falls. At Fort Vancouver, from June to September, the mean temperature was 67°, maximum 98°, minimum 51°. Of 106 days, 76 were fair, 19 cloudy, and 11 rainy. The winter of 1852-3 was very severe, and much snow fell, the stock dying by thou- sands, as they are unhoused, and no fodder is ever prepared. J[n the middle region, the summers are much dryer and the winters colder than east of the Cascade mountains, the extremes varying from 18° to 108°. Daily range, 40°. No dews fall here. The upper country is variable, having often in each day all the changes of the seasons, and is therefore unfitted for agricultural operations. Indian corn is liable to be caught by early frosts. The winter winds are from the south and east, occasion- ally veering to south-west. The time of the setting in of these is very irregular, varying from October 1st to January 1st. They always bring with them copious rains, which last two or three, and even four or five months, from November to April, and constitute the rainy season. These storms are more violent on the coast, and more rain falls than in the Willamette valley. A period of fine weather often occurs in Feb- ruary, sometimes in March, but is generally followed by three or four weeks of cold, chilly rains from the south-west. During the latter part of winter there are light falls of snow. Though the winters are chilly, the thermometer seldom sinks to the freezing point. The mercury has sometimes fallen to 5° degrees below zero in the Willamette valley, and to 15° at the Dalles, beyond the Cascade mountains. From what has been said it will be seen that there is great irregularity in the winters of Oregon, but mildness is the general characteristic. In the middle region the rains are lighter and less constant, and continue for a shorter period. The country between the Blue and Rocky mountains is very dry, with a great difference between the temperature of day and night. Soil and Productions. — It will be inferred from what has been said of the face of the country, that much of Oregon is unfit for tillage ; in the upper country or eastern portion it is almost wholly so, as far as known, both from the aridity of the soil, and the irregularity of the climate. The central portion, though not generally cultivable, affords in many places excellent pasturage; but even the pastoral portion is but a small part of the whole. The great resource of the Oregonian farmers is the country west of the Cascade range, especially in the Willamette, Umpqua, and Rogue's river valleys. The former is rarely surpassed in fertility. Wheat is here the staple; the cool evenings and the drought in the latter part of summer being unfavorable to Indian corn. Besides wheat, oats, barley, turnips, and most of the fruits and vegetables of the Middle States flourish. The indigenous fruits are the crabapple, a large red plum, strawberries, raspberries, and other berries. The bottoms of the Columbia are a very rich alluvion, but incapable of cultivation, from OREGON TERRITORY. 473 their liability to be overflowed; they may, however, form good pasture- lands for stock. Those portions which are beyond the reach of overflow (as the district about Fort Vancouver) are exceedingly productive. On the triangle formed by the Columbia on the north and the Pacific on the west is a tract of land of great fertility, extending back 25 miles to the mountains. This is not suited to wheat, but very fruitful in potatoes, oats, peas, turnips, and other vegetables, and is excellent for pasturage. According to the census of 1850, Oregon had under cultivation 132,857 acres of land, producing 211,942 bushels of wheat; 106 of rj T e; 2.913 of Indian corn; 61,211 of oats ; 6,566 of peas and beans; 91,326 of potatoes; 29,686 pounds of wool; 211,161 of butter; 36,9S0 of cheese; orchard products valued at $1,271 J market products, §90,241; live stock, §1,876,189; and slaughtered animals, §164,530. Forest Trees. — Oregon is particularly celebrated for its forests cf gigantic pine. A species of fir, called Lambert's pine, grows in the lower region to an enormous size, sometimes attaining a bight of nearly 300 feet, and a girth of 40 feet, and often from 24 to 36 feet. This is the great timber of the country, and is largely exported to the Sandwich Islands and to California. The other timber is the hemlock, cedar, oak ash, maple, laurel, pine, willow, balm of Gilead, dogwood, cottonwood and alder. The oak, next to the fir, is the most valuable wood, and is found mostly in the Willamette and Umpqua valleys. In the middle region timber is scarce, and consists mostly of soft wood ; pine and fir grow on the Blue mountains. Animals. — The wild animals are deer, black and grizzly bears, elks, foxes, wolves, antelopes, beavers, muskrats and martens. The beavers are fast diminishing. In spring and fall, geese, ducks, and other waterfowl are abundant. Large quantities of salmon are caught in the Columbia river and its tributaries, and are of excellent quality. Among the other fish are sturgeon, cod, carp, sole, flounders, ray, perch, herring, and smelt, with crabs, clams, oysters, and mussels in abundance. Manufactures. — In jkis department of industry it is hardly to be supposed that this new region has made much progress, though she has every facility for carrying on manufactures when the time comes for doing so. In 1850 there were 52 establishments engaged in mining, manufac- turing, and the mechanic arts, employing §843,600, and 285 male and 32 female hands, consuming raw material worth §809,560, and yielding products valued at §2,236,640. Internal Improvements are limited, as yet, to common and plank road making. Dr. Evans, geologist to Governor Stevens' exploring expe- dition, reports a new route south of the Missouri river, feasible for a railroad through the Black Feet Pass, down the Bitter Root river, cross- ing the mountains of the same name to Fort Walla Walla and the Dalles. Commerce. — We have but few facts on this subject. The foreign imports amounted in 1853-1 to §48,932, and the exports to §42,827; tonnage entered to 231, and cleared to 1,003 tons. Several steamers ply from Portland to different points on the Columbia, beside a regular line of steamers to San Francisco. Oregon exports to California, lumber, stock, hogs, beef, butter, eggs, chickens, pork, flour, etc. Large quantities 474 OREGON TERRITORY. of cattle are driven south to the mines of California. Trade is carried on with Rio Janerio, Europe, and the Sandwich Islands. In 10 months preceding August, 1854, the arrivals at Astoria were 179, clearances 184. The export of lumber alone reached 22,567,000 feet. Education. — The census report for 1850 gives to Oregon 3 public achools with 80 pupils, and $3,927 income; 29 academies with 842 pupils, and $20,888 income; and 1,877 pupils attending schools, as returned by families. Adults who could not read and write 162, of whom 63 were of foreign birth. Oregon Institute, belonging to the Methodists, 6 miles from Salem, is a flourishing establishment, with about 100 students. The Presbyterians have an academy on Tualatin Plains, and there are two female institutes at Oregon city. Religious Denominations. — Of the 9 churches in Oregon in 1850, 1 each belonged to the Baptists, Congregationalists, Methodists and Pres- byterians, and 5 to the Roman Catholics, being one church to every 1,477 persons. Value of church property, $76,520. Population. — The population of Oregon, including the present Terri- tory of Washington, was, in 1850, 13,294, of whom 8,133 were white males, 4,949 females; 120 colored males, and 87 females; besides various tribes of Indians not enumerated, but estimated by the Commissioner of Indian Affairs, in 1853, at 23,000, for Washington and Oregon united. Notwithstanding the formation of Washington Territory from Oregon, so great has been the influx of emigration, that the figures given above very inadequately represent the population of the territory, which, if recent statements may be relied on, has more than quadrupled since that time. The increase has been such as to induce the inhabitants to sue for admis- sion as a state, in 1855. Of the population, 3,175 were born in the territory; 8,847 in other states of the Union; 207 in England; 196 in Ireland; 115 in Scotland and Wales; 293 in British America; 155 in Germany; 45 in France; 148 in other countries; and 143 whose places of birth were unknown; 5 were insane, and 4 idiotic. Counties* — In 1855, Oregon had 20 counties, viz: Benton, Clackamas, Clark, Clatsop, Columbia, Douglas, Jackson, Lane, Lewis, Linn, Marion, Multnomah, Pacific, Polk, Thurston, Umpqua, Vancouver, Washington, Wascopum, and Yam-Hill. Towns. — The principal towns are Portland (population in 1853, 6,000), Oregon city, Salem, and Milton, having each about 1,000 inhabitants. Government. — The government is similar to that of all other territo- ries. — See New Mexico, etc. History. — Oregon seems to have been first trodden by European feefc about 1775, when a Spanish navigator visited Juan de Fuca straits. Cook coasted along its shores in 1778. The Columbia river is believed to have first made known to the civilized world in 1791, by Captain Gray, of the ship Columbia, of Boston, United States, who saw the mouth of the river, but did not enter it till May of the next year, when he gave it the name of his ship. From this time up to 1804, the coast of Oregon was occasionally visited by British and American fur-traders. In that year, President Jefferson sent out an exploring party, under Lewis and Clarke, who passed the winter of 1805-6 at the mouth of the Columbia. CALIFORNIA. 475 After this period, overland expeditions by fur-traders became common, and these, with the British Hudson Bay Company, held joint possession of the country (but not without jealous rivalries and bloody contests), till the treaty of 1846, which gave all below 49° north latitude to the United States. Emigration from the United States, for the purpose of settlement, commenced in 1839. Its growth for the time is probably retarded by the gold mines of California attracting nearly all travelers and settlers, but their ultimate prosperity will most likely be mutual, the mining population of the one furnishing a market for the agricultural products of the other. There is no doubt that in future times Oregon will play an important part in the commerce of the Pacific Ocean, and particularly that of the Polynesian groups. In 1853 the territory of Washington was separated from the north part of Oregon. CALIFORNIA. California is the most western of the present United States, and is bounded on the north by Oregon, east by Utah, (from which it is partly separated by the Sierra Nevada mountains,) and New Mexico south by the Mexican Territory of Old California, and west by the Pacific. It lies between 32°20'and 42° north lat.,and between about 114°20'and 124° 30 v west longitude. California is very irregular in shape, having its greatest length (about 720 miles) in a north-west and south-east direction, and is about 240 miles in breadth, including an area of 188,982 square miles, or 120,000,000 acres. Face of the Country. — As the voyager sails along the coast of California, he looks upon a low range of mountains, which in many in stances approach to the water's edge, and form a bluff, iron-bound coast, through which it enters, by a narrow strait named the Golden Grate, the Bay of San Francisco. Following these low mountains on the coast north of the Golden Gate, is a broken and hilly country, to which suc- ceeds the Coast range, entering from Oregon, and extending nearly parallel with the ocean, at distances varying from 30 to 100 miles, till it reaches the 35th parallel of north latitude, where it unites with the Sierra Nevada, and passes into Old California. This range varies gen- erally from 500 to 5,000 feet. Mount Linn, in latitude 40°, is the hightest known peak of this part of the Coast range, but its latitude has not been ascertained. South of the Golden Gate, San Bernardino, in 476 CALIFORNIA. latitude 34°, attains an elevation of about 17,000 feet. In this portion, between the Sierra Morena mountains (near the Pacific) and the Coast range, lie the valleys of the San Juan and of the Buenaventura, which have their outlets in the Pacific ocean. The latter is 60 miles long, and from 15 to 20 wide. The Sierra Morena, or Brown mountains (2,000 feet high,) descend toward the G-olden Gate, of which they form the southern wall. The mountains immediately on the coasts bear various local names. Table Hill, on the north side of the strait leading into San Francisco bay, is 2,569 feet high, and Mount Diablo, east of San Francisco, 3,770 feet in hight. Near the northern boundary of the State, in a spur of mountains running north-east from the Coast range to the Sierra Nevada, is Mount Shasta, having an elevation of 14,400 feet; it is covered with perpetual snow. In Shasta county is also Mount St. Joseph's, 12,000 feet high. The great valley of the Sacramento and San Joaquin extends from north to south about 500 miles, with an average breadth of about 60 miles, bounded by the Coast range on the west, and by the Sierra Nevada on the east. From a base of about 500 feet above the sea commences the ascent of the Sierra Nevada, the acclivities being wooded to about half the mountain's hight with oak, succeeded by a forest of gigantic pines, cedars, and cypress ; then follows the naked granite, and lastly, the summits crowned with perpetual snow. At the north end of the Sacramento valley is a second higher valley, of about 100 miles in length, and some thousands of feet in elevation, heavily timbered, and containing tracts of arable land along the streams. The Sierra Nevada range may be regarded as a continuation of the Cascade mountains of Oregon. It extends almost directly south, till it unites with the Coast range in latitude 34° north, forming in its course the east boundary of California, as far as the 39th degree of north latitude, near which is Fremont's Pass, 7,200 feet above the sea level. There is a volcano in Calaveras county, near the sources of Jackson's river. On the western slope of these mountains, mostly between 37° and 40° north latitude, are the celebrated " gold diggings," toward which the eyes of those " who make haste to be rich" have been so eagerly turned since the first discovery of gold in Sutter's mill-race in 1847. G-eology. — We have had no full and complete geological survey of California. According to Mr. Tyson's survey, speaking generally, a sec- tion across the State, from Bodga bay, bearing from north 80° east to the Sierra Nevada, exhibits first, on the western side, in the coast range, a sandstone formation, with interpositions of leptinite, clays, trachyte, talcose slate, and trap rocks; while the recent sedimentary deposits of the Sacramento valley rest upon beds of conglomerate sand- stone and clay, and the western declivities of the Sierra Nevada consist mainly of talcose and other slates, through which are extruded trappean rocks, leptinite, granite, and serpentine. A similar section across the State from San Francisco bay, bearing north 70° east, exhibits sand- stones with some fossil deposits east of the bay, on the west slope, con- glomerate sandstone, and slates, with trap, volcanic tufa, and porphyry. Minerals. — It is almost superfluous to say that California is one of CALIFORNIA. 477 the most important mineral regions in the world, particularly in its deposits of gold. The great gold diggings lie on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada mountains, principally between 37° and 40° north latitude : but the precious mineral has also been found in other quarters in considerable quantities, particularly in Klamath county, in the north- west, and in Shasta county. The gold first discovered was evidently not in place, but the washings from the upper regions; and when that shall have been exhausted, there are large bodies of auriferous quartz, which (with greater labor and expense) will probably afford large supplies of this metal for generations to come. The amount of capital invested in quartz mining, according to the State census of 1852, was $5,871,401; in placer and other mining operations, $3,851,623. Up to November 1, 1853, there had been deposited at the United States mints, $204,891,023 of California gold. The total amount produced and distributed in all directions down to the close of 1854, is estimated at $298,243,938. According to the State census of 1852, about 14,000,000 were invested in mining operations. In addition to the precious metal just noticed, there has been found in Butte county. an abundance of quicksilver, platina, iron, lead, and some silver; copper and silver, quicksilver, pla- tina, asphaltum, marble, and granite occur in Marin county ; black marble in Shasta ; a fine-grained white marble and free-stone in Calaveras; a splendid ledge of pure white marble on the middle fork of Feather river ; quicksilver in Napa ; rich silver-mines and coal in San Louis Obispo; quicksilver in Santa Clara; copious salt springs (sufficient, report says, to supply the State) in Shasta; bituminous springs in many places along the coast, and hot sulphur springy in Santa Barbora ; warm soda springs near Benicia, in Solano ; bituminous and sulphur springs in San Louis Obispo; and hot, asphaltum, and salt springs in Los Angeles county. According to Professor Trask, "platina is widely distributed; scarcely a section of country where gold has been found, but that this metal has been discovered." Silver has been found in several mines in the southern district, copper is widely dis- tributed, and chromium occurs in large quantities in serpentine rocks. Diamonds are reported to have been recently discovered. The quicksil- ver mines of New Almaden yield from 20,000 to 35,000 pounds per week. Value exported from San Francisco in 1853, $683,189. Bays, Riveks, Lakes, etc. — San Francisco bay, the best and most capacious harbor on the Pacific coast, (including the two arms, San Pablo and San Francisco bay proper,) perhaps, 70 miles in length, and in the widest part 14 miles broad, with a coast line of 275 miles. A strait, about 2 miles wide, and from 5 to 7 miles long, breaking through a range of low mountains, connects it with the ocean. This strait has been termed, not inappropriately, the Golden Gate, as it is the passage through which the multitude from every region of the world are con- stantly hastening, in order to gather the wealth of this new and richer El Dorado. Within the barrier of hills already alluded to, the bay divides into two parts, the one stretching to the south about 40 miles, and the other to the north for about 30. On the north-west shore of the southern arm stands the city of San Francisco. The northern arm 478 CALIFORNIA. (San Pablo) is united by a second strait, Carquinez, with Suisun bay directly east of it, which is 15 or 20 miles long. The Golden Gate is the only channel of communication between the Pacific and the interior of California. Pelican, Humboldt, Bodega, Sir Francis Drake's, Mon- terey, De los Esteras, Santa Barbara, San Pedro, and San Diego, are the other bays, all opening into the Pacific. The Sacramento and San Joaquin are the principal rivers of California, and, running in opposite directions, the former from the north and the latter from the south, they drain almost the entire valley between the two great ranges, Sierra Nevada and the Coast range, and unite about 15 miles above Suisun bay, into which they discharge their mingled waters. Each of these rivers has a course of from 250 to 300 miles. All their tributaries of importance descend the Sierra Nevada slope. The principal of these, commencing at the north, are Pitt, the Feather, Yuba, and American ; and of the San Joaquin, the Calaveras, the Stanislaus, the Tuolumne, and Merced rivers. The Moquelumne meets the Sacramento and San Joaquin near their junction. The Sacramento has been ascended by small steamers as far as Marysville, the San Joaquin as far as Fort Miller, and the Merced for 20 miles. The Klamath river from Oregon runs through the north-west part of the State, and the Buenaventura drains part of the valley between the Sierra Morena and Coast moun- tains ; both empty into the Pacific. The principal lakes are Tulare lake, about 60 miles long, in the south, which has an outlet into the San Joaquin river, and Clear lake, in Mendocino county, Owen moun- tain and Mono lakes, in the eastern part of the State, are all small. Objects op Interest to Tourists. — Though California is not sur- passed by any State in the Union in grand and sublime scenery, the greater part of it is as yet too imperfectly explored to justify our speak- ing of it except in very general terms. Not to repeat what has already been said of the magnificent mountain ranges, with their summits clad with everlasting snow, we may notice a few natural curiosities of quite a different character. Among the most remarkable of these are the hot sulphur springs, the Geysers of America, in Napa county, about 70 miles north of the city of this name. They are from 1 to 9 feet in diameter, and constantly in boiling state, ejecting water to hights of 10 or 15 feet. Hundreds of fissures in the sides of the mountains emit strong currents of heated gas, with a noise resembling that of vapor escaping from ocean steamers. We condense the following from Silli- man's Journal of November, 1851, by Professor Sheppard : — " From a high peak we saw on the west the Pacific, on the south Mount Diablo and San Francisco bay, on the east the Sierra Nevada, and on the north opened at our feet an immense chasm, from which, at the distance of from 4 to 5 miles, we distinctly saw dense columns of steam rising. Descend- ing, we discovered within half a mile square from 100 to 200 openings, whence issued dense columns of vapor to the hight of from 150 to 200 feet, accompanied by a roar which could be heard for a mile or more. Many acted spasmodically, throwing up jets of hot, scalding water to the hight of 20 to 30 feet. Beneath your footsteps you hear the lashing and foaming gyrations ; and on cutting through the surface, are disclosed CALIFORNIA. 479 streams of angry, boiling water. 'The Three Buttes,' says Lieutenant Derby, 'have been erroneously represented, since they are in reality a range of about 12 miles in width by 6 in breadth, and contain, perhaps, 20 peaks; the highest of wbich, and the most interesting, is that on the north, which is a very steep cone, surmounted by a turret-shaped rock; 56 feet high, and has an elevation of 2,483 feet; ' (Capron says 4,000 feet.) This commands an extensive view from the Coast range to the Sierra Nevada, and for, perhaps, 80 miles up and down the Sacramento valley, and will doubtless one day be one of the fashionable resorts of the San Franciscans." (For Springs, see Minerals.) Among the moun- tains not named in the general survey, are Mount Prospect, 5,000 feet high, and Salmon Mountain, covered with snow nine month is in the year, both in Klamath county; Mount St. Helen's, 3,500 feet, in Napa; Saddle Peak, 7,200 feet; Table mountain, 8,000 feet; and Butte, at the head of South fork, 9,000 feet in hight, all in the Sierra Nevada moun- tains; two double peaks, conspicuous landmarks, in Solano; and Oregon hill, 2,800 feet high, in Yuba county. Near Vallecita, on Chyote creek, in Calaveras county, is a striking display of volcanic action in the shape of what are called the natural bridges ; two immense arches, thrown over the above-named creek, and covered with imitations of clusters of fruits and flowers, doubtless formed when the mass was first upheaved in a molten state. In the same vicinity is "Chyote Cave," a deep semicircular chasm, entered by a perpendicular descent of 100 feet, and then proceeding by a gradual slope till it reaches a depth of nearly 200 feet below the surface, where you come to a chamber called " The Cathedral," from its containing two stones, resembling bells, which, when struck, produce a chiming sound. Proceeding 100 feet further, always on the descent, a lake is reached of great depth, and apparently covering many acres; but the exploration has not yet been carried be- yond this point. The roof of the cave is studded with stalactites, assuming various fantastic forms. Climate, Soil, and Productions. — The climate of California is much milder, even at considerable elevations, than in the same latitude on the Atlantic border, and the winters are short and seldom severe. At San Francisco the mercury seldom rises above 80°, but has at times risen at 98° in September; yet the temperature often varies 30° in 24 hours; in the rainy season the thermometer rarely sinks below 49°. On the coast, generally, snow is a rarity. The summers of San Francisco, and other parts near the sea, are more disagreeable than the winters, owing to the prevalence of north-west winds from the ocean, which bring with them chilling fogs. In the hot season these winds set in at San Francisco about 9 or 10 o'clock, and are poured through the Golden J Gate directly upon the city, producing a chilling effect contrasted with the heat of the morning. The sheltered valleys along the coast enjoy a delicious climate, equally removed from the chilliness of the exposed parts of the coast, and the heat of the great valley between the Coast range and the Sierra Nevada. In any country ranging through 10° of latitude, the difference^ of temperature would be considerable ; but in California this difference is greatly increased by the peculiarities of its 4 480 CALIFORNIA. surface, insomuch that no general statement would be at all correct. The northern portion has more of the chilling fogs of the warm season, and more and longer rains in the wet season, than the southern portion ; and in the great valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, the heat is much greater in summer than near the coast, the mercury not unfre- quently rising to 112° and 120° at Suttersville. Owing, says Mr. Tyson, to the extreme dryness of the air, it does not produce that prostrating effect that a much less degree of heat would produce in the Atlantic and Mississippi States. The nights he represents as never so hot as to pre- vent sleep. The Sierra Nevada precipitates whatever moisture has been left in the air after the passage of the Coast range, and sends it into Utah dry and warm. The terms winter and summer, as understood east of the Rocky mountains, will not apply here, and we must resort to the tropical names of wet and dry seasons. The rains begin in the north, says Tyson, early in the autumn, and extend slowly southward, reaching San Francisco about a week before the 1st of December, and San Diego a month later, where the rainy season is over by February, and retrograd- ing, continues later into the year as we proceed north, where the rain not only lasts longer, but falls in greater quantity in a given time. During the dry season scarcely a cloud is to be seen in the great valley for a month at a time. According to observations made during 75 days by the exploring ex- expedition at San Francisco, between August 18 and October 31, north-west winds prevailed 13 days, south-west 44, west 4, south-east 5, and calm 5 days. Mean temperature, from May 27 to June 6, 61°, maximum 86°, minimum 48°; while at New Helvetia, during the same period, the thermometer rose to 114°. According to observations made by Fremont, in San Joaquin valley, between the middle of December and the middle of June, the mean was 29° at sunrise, and 52° at sun- set; and from the 10 to the 22 of March, 38° and 26°, at sunrise and sunset respectively; at Deer creek, 40° north latitude, between March 30 and April 4, mean at 2 P. M. 59°; at the Three Buttes, in 39° north latitude, at an elevation of 800 feet, 90° at 2 P. M. In latitude 35° 30', mean between December 27 and January 17, 60° at noon; and near Monterey early in March, 62° at 2 P. M., at a hight of 2,200. feet. According to Captain Wilkes, not more than 12,000 square miles of California are susceptible of cultivation. A recent writer computes the arable land at 42,420 square miles. This opinion will probably have to be very much modified with the progress of knowledge, in developing the agricultural capabilities of the country, which now lie much neglect ed in the general rush to "the diggings." Enough has been done tc show marvellous fertility in the soil, both as to variety, quantity, and size of the products. In the south, and in some of the low interior valleys as far north as Napa, figs, dates, sugar-cane, and even bananas flourish ; and most tropical plants may be grown in this region where irrigation can be practiced, which, in many parts, is absolutely necessary to suc- cessful agricultural operations. The sheltered valley between the Sierra Morena and Coast range, south of the bay of San Francisco, is peculiarly CALIFORNIA. 481 favorable to plants and fruits requiring a mild climate. The southern country is highly favorable to the grape, and according to the State census, Los Angeles county alone produced 2,250,000 pounds. Peaches, pears, apples, cherries, quinces, and apricots flourish. Santa Barbara county reports 1,370 barrels of olives. Wheat and rye yield largely in many parts north of Point Conception — these crops maturing so early as to be little injured by the dry season. Oats grow wild in great quanti ties in the Sacramento valley, and westward of it. This cures in the dry season and forms excellent fodder, as there is no moisture to cause decomposition. Hemp, rice, tobacco, cotton, and coffee, all can, it is believed, be cultivated successfully; the first three having been tried. According to the State census of 1852, there were 110,748 acres of land under cultivation, the greater portion of which is in the middle and west side of the State, between 36° and 40° north latitude. The largest yield was of barley, 2,973,734 bushels; potatoes, 1,393,170; wheat, 291,763; oats, 100,497; Indian corn, 62,532; beef cattle, number 315,392 ; cows, 104,339 ; working oxen, 29,065 ; horses, 64,773 ; mules, 16,578; sheep, (in 20 counties,) 35,867; hogs, 88,071, and poultry, 78,753. Forest Trees. — The variety of timber in California is not great, but it is large in size, and abundant in quantity. The Lambertine pine, or fir, on the mountains, of gigantic size, the red-wood (the "palo Colorado" of the Mexicans, a tree of huge dimensions, a species of cypress ; Col. Fremont mentions one 21 feet in diameter), pine, spruce, cedar, white and live oak, sycamore, maple, ash, beech and laurel are found in all sections of the State, but most abundantly in the north and central portions, especially on the western slope of the Nevada mountains. A specimen of arbor vitse recently felled, measured about 320 feet long, and 92 in girth, and yet another 410 feet in length, and 110 in circumference. A species of cotton-wood is found. Animals. — Among the animals are the moose, elk, antelope, black- tailed and jumping deer, mountain sheep, grizzly, black, and barren ground bear, the cougar, common, grey, dusky, black, and prairie wolf, the northern lynx, red lynx, tiger-cat, cuyote (an animal between a fox and a wolf, which preys upon sheep and pigs), a black wildcat, red, and common fox, wolverine (a sullen, savage animal, which partakes of the nature of the bear, fox, and weasel), badger, raccoon, marmot, squirrel; a species of rat, living in the mountains, and building itself a brush hut 4 or 5 feet in hight, about the size of a musk-rat, web-footed, with a fine colored fur; pouched rat, mice, hares, martins, and rabbits are the prin- cipal quadrupeds. The sea and land otter, common hair seal, beaver, and musk-rat are the principal fur-bearing animals. Many wild horses roam over the native pastures. Large herds of cattle, but of an inferior breed, were formerly raised principally for their hides, horns and tallow. The elk, the grizzly and other bears, and deer are abundant. Birds, except aquatic fowls, are not abundant in California. The California and black vultures (the former 4 feet in hight, and 10 from tip to tip of its wings, is a solitary bird, building its nest on the top of the mountain), the tur- key-buzzard, golden and bald eagle, fish-hawk, black, and pigeon-hawk, gerfalcon, goshawk, great horned and great snow-owl, black raven, shrike, . 31 482 CALIFORNIA. robin, brown thrusb, lark, redwing, snow-bunting, crossbill, magpie, three species of jay, woodpecker, humming-bird, swallow, night-hawk, king- fisher, grouse of various kinds, geese, ducks, widgeons, teal, crane, cur- lew, snipe, sandpiper, plover, tatler, godwit, gull, phalarope, penguins, swan (the largest bird of California, and a bird of passage), white pel- ican, and albatross, are the principal birds. Among the fishes are the seal, sturgeon, bass, mackerel, crawfish, blackfish, sardines (in sufficient numbers to become an article of export), codfish, porgy, bonito, pilchard, skate; and, out at sea, the whale and porpoise, clams, oysters, lobsters, crabs, hallibut of a large size, sharks, a large fish of a dingy red color off the soundings, salmon in great abundance (large in size and excellent in quality), salmon-trout, trout, smelts, and a large fresh-water fish from 1^ to 1\ feet long. Among reptiles are the striped, black, spotted, and rattle snakes; the adder, and several species of water-snake. Manufactures. — California has few manufactures, and this state of things is likely to continue so long as there is so great a demand for labor in other and more profitable kinds of business, About $800,000 were invested in sawing lumber in 1850. Internal Improvements. — Several railroads have been projected, in California, the principal of which are — that from San Francisco to San Jose, one from Benecia to Marysville, and one from Stockton toward Sonora. Plank-roads, also, have engaged the public attention. Canal- ing, for the purpose of conducting water to the mines, is a species of improvement peculiar to this State. About $3,851,623 in 1852 were in- vested in sluices, canals, etc. A marine telegraph communicates between San Francisco, and Point Boneta, at the entrance of the Golden Gate. Commerce. — The commercial city of San Francisco has sprung up as if by magic, and its harbor is thronged with shipping from Europe, Asia, Australia, and the Atlantic coast of the United States. At the moment we write, in all our great Atlantic ports, large numbers of the first-class ships are loading with valuable cargoes for California. Several lines, employing above 40 immense ocean steamers, of from 900 to 3,000 tons burden, crowded with passengers, to a degree unparalleled in the history of navigation, weekly arrive at and depart from San Francisco at the one terminus, and New York and New Orleans at the other. With the exception of the export of gold, California's commerce is almost wholly an importing one, the frames and materials of houses themselves being imported. The commerce of California threatens to revolutionize the trade of the east, and San Francisco seems likely to become the Alexan- dria of modern times, the halting-place of the transit trade of Asia, in its new western route to Europe, to open commerce (and with it civili- zation) to the isles of the Pacific, and to infuse even into the Chinese the spirit of progress. The foreign imports of California for the fiscal year 1852, were $4,648,587, and the exports consisted of about §50,000,000 gold dust. The imports of San Francisco for 1853, amounted to $35,000,000, and the exports of gold to $62,300,389, of which $56,675,736 was consigned to New York ; but this is below the real amount, as much is never entered at the custom-house. In the same year, $2,581,975 duties were collected. The imports of 1852 of course CALIFORNIA. 483 do not include the immense trade with the Atlantic shores of the repub- lic. There entered into California in 1852, 71S vessels, tonnage 261,352, and cleared 906, tonnage 360,872. About one-third of the commerce was in foreign bottoms. Total tonnage owned in the state, 99,041,83. See San Francisco. Education. — Congress appropriated half a million acres of land in California for the support of common schools; of this, 150,000 acres have been sold, forming a school fund of §300,000. Besides this, two sections of land in each township are set apart for the same purpose, and 72 sections for a State university. The money available for present use, arising from different sources, amounted to nearly $50,000 in 1853. The donations of public lands for school and university purposes, amounted to 6,765,404 acres in June, 1853. The superintendent of public schools, the same year, reported to the legislature, 17,821 white children in the State, 20 public schools attended by 3,314 pupils; number of teachers employed, 15, of whom 6 were females; highest salary, §150 per month; lowest, $75; total expended on teachers' salaries, §21,355,42. 8 or 10 academies and high schools have been founded, supported by private means, and the Catholic bishop of Monterey reports 8 schools under his direction. Religion. — In 1850, California had 28 churches, of which 1 belonged to the Baptists, 1 to the Episcopalians, 5 to the Methodists, 3 to the Presbyterians, and 18 to the Roman Catholics. Public Institutions. — A State Lunatic Asylum is now in course of erection at Stockton, which will be an ornament to the State. In 1852, there were, in temporary buildings, 30 patients. The State Marine Hospital, at San Francisco, in 1852, admitted 2,283 patients, of whom 1,408 were foreigners. The United States Marine Hospital, now being erected in the same city, is 182 feet by 86 feet, 4 stories high, and capa- ble of accommodating 800 patients. A penitentiary is now in course of erection at St. Quentin, 15 miles north of" San Francisco, at which place 200 convicts are employed in constructing the building. Population. — No member of the American confederacy — perhaps we might safely say, no portion of the earth — has so mixed a population as California, adventurers being found from almost every quarter of the globe ; even the exclusive empire of China has here its representatives by tens of thousands, whose patient industry makes them useful inhab- itants. The Indians also form a large portion of the population. According to a State census taken toward the close of 1852, the popula- tion of California was 264,435 inhabitants (one county, El Dorado, being estimated), of whom 151,115 were white males, 29,741 females; 1,637 male negroes, 253 females; 424 male mulattoes, 98 females; 19,675 male domesticated Indians, 12,864 females; 93,344 were citizens of the United States over 21 years of age; 50,631 male foreigners, and 4,360 females. Of the foreigners, 39,444 were over 21 years of age. Of the population, it is estimated that 140,000 are miners. Counties. — California is divided into 36 counties, viz: Alameda, Butte, Calaveras, Colusi, Contra Costa, El Dorado, Humboldt. Klamath, Los Angeles, Marin, Mariposa, Mendocino, Monterey, Napa, Nevada, 484 CALIFORNIA. Placer, Sacramento, San Bernardino, San Diego, San Joaquin, San Francisco, San Louis Obispo, Santa Clara, Santa Cruz, Santa Barbara, Shasta, Siera, Siskiyou, Solano, Soloma, Sutter, Trinity, Tuolumne, Tu- lare, Yolo, and Yuba. Capital, Sacramento. Cities and Towns. — San Francisco had, in 1852, a population of 34,876;* it is now (1856) estimated at not less than 60,000; Sacramento city has about 10,000; Nevada, 7,000; Marysville, 4,500; Placerville, Sono- ra, and San Jose, each 4,000; Stockton, Monterey, Los Angeles, Sau Diego, Santa Barbara, Shasta, Culloma, and Downieville, from 1,000 to 3,000. Government, Finances, etc. — The governor of California is elected for two years by popular vote, and receives $10,000 salary. The senate consists of 33 members, elected for two years, and the house of repre- sentatives of 80, elected annually. The State legislature assembles annually on the first Monday in June. The members receive $16 per diem during one session. California, by the recent State census, will be entitled to 3 members in the national House of Representatives (if the State census should be taken as the guide to apportionment, otherwise but 2), and to 5 electoral votes for President of the United States. The judiciary consists: 1. Of a supreme court, composed of 1 chief and 2 associate judges, elected by the people for six years, and receiving $8,000 each, annually. 2. Of district courts, the judges of which are also elected by popular vote, for six years. 3. A county judge is elected in each county for four years, to act as judge of probate, and to hold courts for the transaction of criminal business, in conjunction with two justices of the peace; and 4. Of the superior court of San Francisco. The district judges receive $7,500 per annum. The productions and capital employed in various branches of business (Calaveras and El Dorado counties estimated), including live stock, ag- ricultural products, mines, etc., etc., made in 1852, a total of $108,522,568. The State debt of California amounted, in October 31, 1853, to $3,257,492. The income of the State for the year ending June 30, 1853, amounted to only $454,985,84, while the expenditures were $1,367,593,35; but the receipts of the unexpired fiscal year, amounted, in January, 1854, to $780,000 net revenue. History. — According to some accounts, California was first visited by Cobrillo, who landed at San Diego in 1542, and afterward by Sir Francis Drake, in 1578. The first mission was founded by some Spaniards, in 1769. After the Mexican revolution, California formed a province of that republic until 1836, when the inhabitants rebelled, drove out the Mexicans, and formed an independent congress. After having been the scene of several sanguinary contests during the war with Mexico, by the treaty of peace in 1848, it became a part of the United States, and in 1850 was admitted into the American confederacy, as a sovereign State; since which time its almost daily history has been blazoned to the world, far and near, in the newspapers of the day. During its occupancy by the Spaniards, it was resorted to by the Americans, principally for the * It must be borne in mind, in giving population in California, that there is an immense floating population, particularly in San Francisco, not enumerated in the census. CALIFORNIA. 485 hides and tallow cured at the Jesuit missionary stations, and by the Russians in pursuit of the seal. San Francisco, the commercial metropolis of California, and the queen city of the "far West," is situated on the west shore of the mag- nificent bay from which it derives its name. Latitude 37° 47' 35" north, longitude 122° 26' 15" west. It stands in a plain about half a mile wide, gently inclined toward the bay, with numerous hills behind it. The soil on which the cky is built is very sandy ; and in the vicinity, more particularly toward the north, are a number of sand-hills. It is regularly laid out, the streets crossing each other at right angles. The houses till recently were mostly frame; but siuce the destructive fires that have occurred several times, laying the greater part of the town in ruins, brick and iron are becoming more extensively used. It now con- tains many well-built fire-proof stores and banking-houses. The better class of frame houses are painted white, with green blinds, presenting the appearance of the houses in New England. The city was originally built around a semicircular bay, having Rincon point on the south, and Clark's point on the north, these two points being about a mile apart. All the space between is now built up, the ware- houses and wharves being supported by piles driven into the water. Clark's point is the termination of Telegraph hill, having an elevation of 1,000 feet or upward, and from the summit of which a very extensive view may be had of the surrounding country. Directly in front of the city, bat distant 5 or 6 miles, is Goat island, which is nearly a mile in length. It is a barren, rocky place, except on the east side, where there is some cultivation among the valleys. The wholesale business part of San Francisco, is towaid the city front. Davis street is next to the bay; then advancing west, one meets Front, Battery, Sansom, Montgomery, Kearney, Dupont, Stockton, and Powell streets; Yallejo, Broadway, Pacific, Jackson, Washington, Clay, Commercial or Long Wharf, Sacra- mento, California, Pine, Bush, and Market streets, running east and west, are included within the business section of the city. Montgomery street is a wide, handsome thoroughfare. On it are situated the estab- lishments of the bankers and brokers, and nearly all the newspaper offices in the city. It is also the fashionable promenade. On Stockton and Dupont streets, toward the south part of the city, are many fine resi- dences built of brick; west of Stockton, and on the surrounding hills, are many handsome houses of wood, but being separated from the rest of the city, they are comparatively secure in case of fire. Most families have their residences in the outskirts, or in the rear of the town. The prin cipal streets and sidewalks are paved with plank and heavy timber. In the center of the city is a public square or plaza. A railroad has recently been projected from this city to San Jose. . San Francisco has a custom-house, a branch mint, a fine exchange, a marine h spital, a splendid musical fund hall, and 6 theaters. The new custom-house is a very extensive and substantial building. It is built on pi l- s, and is estimated to have cost, including the site, about 8800,000. The mint was completed in March, 1853, and cost about §300,000. The entire cost of the marine hospital was about §400,000. Among the 486 CALIFORNIA. theaters, the Metropolitan, erected during 1854, is the most magnificent. It will comfortably seat 2,000, and accommodate in all about 2,500 per- sons. There are some 20 churches in the city, 9 or 10 banking-houses, and 13 daily newspapers, besides other publications. San Francisco is supplied with water from Mountain lake, situated about 3J miles west of the city. The water is introduced into the town on its own level, at an elevation of about 130 feet above the sea. The cost of the entire work is estimated at $800,000. Gas is employed for lighting the streets. The gas-works have recently been completed, and are capable of producing 50,000 cubic feet every 24 hours. San Francisco has regular communication by steamers with Panama and San Juan del Sul, while several lines of steamboats are constantly running between this city and Sacramento and Marysville; there is also a line plying between it and San Jose, Santa Clara, and Alviso. The following table shows the arrival, tonnage, and average passage of vessels at San Francisco from the various ports specified, for 8 months ending September 1, 1853: Ports. Vessels. Tonnage. Average Passage. Ports in Chili " China Manila Other Eastern ports London Liverpool Cardiff Glasgow Other ports in Great Britain Bordeaux Havre Marseilles Hamburgh Ports in Holland Bremen and Assens 87 44 3 6 12 28 16 4 5 14 9 2 9 G 2 24,150 19,421 904 2,473 4,207 13,383 7,253 1,255 2,262 4,G61 3,979 668 2,123 3,597 577 62i< days. 68 " " 76 209 208*£ " 191 224% «' 169 162^ " 207>| " 172>? " \M% " 211 The number of American vessels entered during the period above specified, 298, (21 steamers;) burden, 209,330 tons; American vessels from foreign ports, 131, (46 steamers;) burden, 79,406 tons. Vessels and tonnaye cleared at San Francisco in 1853 and 1854. Ports. 1853. 1854. No. Tons. No. Tons. 95 269 25 1,364 58,207 169,022 30,580 382,263 640,072 114 119 14 916 1,163 91,684 79,843 8,630 | 311,188 491,345 " Callao , Total 1,653 CALIFORNIA. 487 Shipping entered at San Francisco for six years ending 1854. Years. From American Ports. From Foreign Ports. Total. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. 1849 1850 1851 .... 1852 1853 1854 254 695 241 161 349 266 1,966 75,316 204,749 115,725 122,611 260,110 216,785 396 826 736 582 513 361 85,578 195,427 193,449 172,341 153.765 192,245 650 1,521 977 743 862 627 160,894 400,176 309,174 294,952 413,875 409,030 Total.. 995,296 3,414 992,805 5,380 1,988,101 In the subjoined table are sbown the countries whence the vessels that arrived at San Francisco in 1853 and 1854 sailed, and the number of vessels from each : Arrivals from Domestic Atlantic ports Northern and Home coast ports. . . Ports in France British ports German ports ''. East India ports Ports in Chili Sandwich and Society Islands. . . . South American ports Australian ports Mexican ports Total 1853. 1854. 375 172 1,032 1,460 31 11 93 41 20 14 73 63 130 27 71 55 15 10 7 16 55 24 1,902 1,893 The exports to Australia and ports in the Pacific, in 1854, comprise 31,072 barrels and sacks of flour; 4,717 sacks of wheat; 9,041 sacks of barley; and 25,543 sacks of potatoes. Value of quicksilver exported during the year, $755,000. The amount of gold exported from San Francisco in 1853, as manifested by steamers bi-monthly, was 856,560,529, and in 1854, $51282,595 (the amount for December, 1854, is partly an estimate) ; the deficit for the last-named year being $5,277,934. If, however, we add to the export of 1854, the 343,868^- ounces of gold valued at $6,433,397, deposited at the mint of San Francisco from April 1, 1854, the time the establishment went into operation, to January 1, 1855, we shall have $57,719,192 as the produce of 1854, an increase of $1,155,663 over that of 1853. The total produce of the California gold mines since their discovery, is estimated as follows : Previous to 1851, assumed from statistics of the Philadelphia Mint $63,915,376 Manifested by steamers in 1851 34,492,624 1852 45,559,177 1853 56.560,469 Partly an estimate 1854 57,715,992 Probable amount in the hands of passengers for 4 years 40,000,000 Total amount $298,243,538 488 CALIFORNIA. The duties collected at the custom-house of San Francisco in 1853, amounted to $2,581,975. The shipping of the port, June 30, 1854, ac- cording to the custom-house returns, amounted to an aggregate of 46,268 tons registered, and 47,257 tons enrolled and licensed; total, 93,520 tons. Of the enrolled and licensed tonnage, 44,841 tons were employed in the coast trade. The assessed value of real and personal property in San Francisco, September 1, 1853, amounted to $28,802,000, being an increase of up- ward of $10,000,000 over the previous year. Of this sum, $6,158,350 consisted in improvements, and $4,032,009 in personal property, leaving $17,389,856 as the value of real estate. Population. — The inhabitants of San Francisco have been variously estimated from 60,000 to 70,000; but there is so large a mass of floating population, that it would be impossible, even by taking a census, to state the number with any exactness. The following statement will give some idea of the immense influx of strangers, as well as of the instability of the population : The total number of passengers by sea that arrived at San Francisco, from January 1, to August 27, 1853, was 26,722, of whom 21,886 were males, 4,138 females, and 698 children. The total number that left within the same time was 18,083, nearly all males. The addition to the population from abroad, amounted, therefore, during the first eight months of the same year, to only 8,639. From July 27 to August 27, the total arrivals were 1,435; the departures, 1,932 — showing a falling off in the last month of 497. The following table shows from what points the emigrants came : Passengers arriving by sea, from January 1 to August 27, 1853. From Panama 12,200 San Juan 6,295 Realego 25 United States ports 960 Mexican ports 415 Chilian ports 633 Peru vian ports 5 Chinese ports 3,628 Philippine Islands 7 England 153 Hanse Towns 133 France 1,824 Sandwich Islands 208 Australia 196 Holland 6 Vancouver's Island 3 Sitka 4 Genoa 9 Society Islands 10 Total 26.717 The number of departures by sea during the above period, was 18,034 The total number of arrivals by sea in 1854, was 47,811; departures, 21,243. The number of Chinese that arrived, was 15,062 ; departures 2175. History — The first settlement at San Francisco was made by the Spaniards about the year 1778. The place was then called Yerba Buena, or "good herb," because an herb of this name, supposed to possess great medicinal virtues, was found growing abundantly on the neighboring hills. The first houses were built of adobes, or sun-dried bricks. In 1839 it was laid out as a town, the few houses having previously been scattered without regularity. It contained in 1845 about 150 inhabi- tants, About this time it began to attract the attention of some adven- CALIFORNIA. 489 turous Americans, and the population increased in two years to nearly 500. It retained the name of Yerba Buena until it was occupied by the Americans. The first discovery of gold was made at Slitter's settlement, then called New Helvetia, in December, 1847. Early in 1848 the news spread to the four quart rs of the globe, and immediately adventurers from every land eame thronging to this new El Dorado. The magnifi- cent harbor of San Francisco made this port the great rendezvous fur the arriving vessels, and from this period dates the extraordinary increase and prosperity of the Calif irniau metropolis. In the first two mouths of the golden age, the quantity of precious dust brought to San Francisco was estimated at $250,000, and in the next two months at $600,000. In February, 1849, the population of the town was about 2,000; in August it was estimated at 5,000. From April 12, 1849, to January 29, 1S50, there arrived at this port by sea 39,888 emigrants, of whom 1,421 were females. In the year ending April 15, 1850, there arrived 62,000 pas- sengers. In the first part of 1850, San Francisco became a city. The population then was from 15,000 to 20,000 According to the census of 1852, it was 34,870; in 1855, from 60,000 to 65,000. Sacramento city. — The present capital of California, is situated on the left bank of the Sacramento river, a little below the mouth of the American river, in the midst of a level and extremely fertile country, 140 miles by water north-east of San Francisco. It is regularly laid out, the street nearest the river being called Front street, the next Second, and so on; these are crossed by others at right angles, dis- tinguished by the letters of the alphabet. J and K streets are the princi- pal business streets of the city. Till within a year or two nearly all the houses were of wood; but recently a more substantial mode of building is comiug into use. Since the inundations of 1849 and 1850, a good strong levee has been constructed around the town. In Sacramento and its vicinity are perhaps the finest gardens in California. As a center of commerce, Sacramento city possesses great advantages. It is accessible for steamers and sailing vessels of a large size, at all seasons of the year; while not only the Sacramento river itself, but its impor- tant affluent, the Feather river, is navigable for small steamboats far above, into the interior of the country. These advantages have ren- dered this town the principal entrepot for supplying with provisions the great mining region of the north. The amount of merchandise daily landed on the wharves of Sacramento city in September, 1854, was estimated at 530 tons, of whieh 150 tons were shipped by the up- country steamers. The regular weekly sales of produce and merchan- dise were stated to be 61. 500,000, and the monthly receipts of gold-dust 62,750,000. The number of stage passengers from Sacramento city to the mines was estimated at 97,000; of wagon passengers, 214,000; travelers on foot and horseback, 97,000; drivers and packmen, 187,000; total, 595,000. The estimated value of real and personal property in the city is about 810,000,000. Five or six newspapers are issued here. A railroad is in course of construction from Sacramento city, up the south bank of the Americau river, 21 miles, to Negro bar, where it crosses the river ; and is projected in the direction of the great mining district of 490 TERRITORY OF UTAH. the State. It is to be completed to Negro bar in the present year, (1855.) A branch railroad has also been projected for 15 or 20 miles south, from Negro bar. Population estimated at 20,000. The vote polled in Sacramento in 1853, was 5,536. Sacramento city was founded in the spring of 1849, the central part of the town being about 1 mile below Sutter's fort, near the left bank of the American river, belong- ing to the settlement formerly known as Nueva Helvetia. TERRITORY OF UTAH. Utah was originally a part of Upper California, ceded to the United States by the treaty with Mexico in 1848, and was erected into a separate territory in 1850. It is bounded on the north by Oregon, east by the Indian Teritory and New Mexico, south by New Mexico, and on the west by California. The Rocky mountains separate it from the Indian Territory, and the Sierra Nevada partly from California. It lies be- tween 37° and 42° north latitude, and between 105° 30' and 120° west longitude, being about 700 miles in extreme length from east to west, and 3^7 miles broad from north to south, and including an area of 269,176 square miles, or 172,268,800 acres, of which only 16,333 were improved in 1850. Face of the Country, Geology, etc. — This extensive region is generally an elevated and barren table-land, divided into unequal por- tions by the Sierra Madre mountains, but having the larger to the west of them. The western section, known as the Great or Fremont Basin, is hemmed in by mountains on all sides, having the Blue mountains of Oregon on the north, the Wahsatch mountains on the east, the Sierra Nevada on the west, and transverse spurs of the Rocky mountains on the south. This basin has an extent of about 500 miles from east to west, by 350 miles from north to south, and a general elevation of from 4,000 to 5,000 feet above the level of the sea, "with its own system of lakes and rivers, but having no communication with the ocean." The eastern portion is covered with a white incrustation of saline and alka- line matter, and the western with a mixture of salt, sand, and clay, in which animals sink to their knees. Several detached mountains traverse this basin, the principal of which are the Humboldt River mountains, which ruu from north to south, near the centre of the basin, having an elevation of from 2,000 to 5,000 feet above the surrounding country. TERRITORY OF UTAH. 491 The Wahsatch mountains rise from 4,000 to 7,000 feet above the neigh- boring valley, and some reach the hight of perpetual snow. Some of the valleys, in the southern part of the settled country, have an elevation of about 6,000 feet above the level of the sea. A great valley, more sterile even than the western section, occupies the region between the Wahsatch and the Rocky mountains. Of the geology of Utah as yet very little is known. It appears, however, that volcanic rocks are found in various parts. Basalt occurs on the slopes of the mountains in many places. "The Boiling Springs" referred to, and the hot springs in the valley of Bear river, and in other sections, indicate the proximity of volcanic fires. Lakes and Rivers. — Great Salt lake is the prominent object to be considered in treating of the waters of Utah. This extensive and pecu- liar sheet of water, lying north-east from the center of the territory, is about 70 miles long and 80 miles wide, with no visible outlet. The water is so highly saline that no living thing can exist in it, and by the evapora- tion in hot weather, leaves on its shores a thick incrustation of salt. According to Fremont's analysis of some of the salt of this lake, there were in 100 parts, 97.80 of chloride of sodium, or common salt; sul- phate of lime, 1.12; chloride of magnesium, 0.24; and sulphate of soda, 0.23. About 25 miles south of this, and communicating with it by the river Jordan, is Utah lake, a body of fresh water about 35 miles in length. It is stored with trout and other fish. These lakes are eleva- ted°from 4,200 to 4,500 feet above the sea. Pyramid lake, on the slope of the Sierra Navada mountains is, according to Fremont, about 700 feet higher than Great Salt lake, and received its name from a pyramidal rock which rises from the midst of its waters. In the interior are several small lakes, which are the recipients of the streams of the in- terior basin, and are often mere sinks or sloughs. The most important of these known are Nicollet lake, about the middle of the territory, and Lake Ashley, perhaps 70 miles south of it. Near the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada mountains are also several lakes, which receive the waters of the eastern slope of these mountains. The principal of these are Mud, Pyramid, Carson's and Walker's lakes. About 50 miles east of Pyramid lake is Humboldt's lake, formed by the waters of Humboldt river. These lakes have evidently no outlet but by evaporation, which in some instances, in hot weather, reduces them to mere marshes or sinks. As before stated, the rivers of the Great basin have no apparent con- nection with the ocean, but all either discharge themselves into the interior lakes, or are absorbed by the sands of the deserts. _ The largest of these streams is the Humboldt river, having its sources in the western declivities of the mountains of that name, and flows south-west about 300 miles into the lake above described. One of the overland routes to California is along this river, whose shores afford a precarious pasturage for the animals of the caravans. The Nicollet river rises in the south part of the territory, flows north, and then west for nearly the same dis- tance as the Humboldt, and empties itself into Nicollet lake. In the north-east part of the basin. Bear river enters the territory from Oregon, 492 TERRITORY OF UTAH. and is the principal tributary of Great Salt lake. The Green and Grand rivers traverse the eastern basin or valley, and thence flow south- west into New Mexico. The Grand river, the most eastern branch, rising in the Rocky mountains, flows south-west to meet Green river, which is the larger tributary, and has its sources in the south-east part of Oregon. These streams and their affluents drain the entire eastern division of Utah. The former has a course of about 300, and the latter of about 400 miles. Objects op Interest to Tourists. — Of these there is no scarcity in this widely extended Territory. Among the most remarkable objects of this region, is the Great Salt lake. In the saltness of its waters, in the circumstance of its having no outlet, and being fed from another smaller and fresh water lake, (with which it is connected by a stream call- ed the "Jordan/') and in the rugged and repulsive character of some portions of the surrounding region, it bears a remarkable resemblance to the Dead sea of Palestine. Instead, however, of lying 1,000 i'eet below, it is more than 4,000 feet above the level of the sea ; its waters, moreover, being an almost pure solution of common salt, are free from that pungency and nauseous taste which characterize those of the Dead sea. The Pyramid lake, already referred to, embosomed in the Sierra Nevada mountains, with the singular pyramidal mount rising from its transparent waters to the bight of perhaps 600 feet, and walled in by almost perpendicular precipices, in some places 3,000 feet high, has noth- ing, we believe, similar to it within the borders of the United States. The Boiling Springs, in about 117° 30' west longitude, and 39° north lati- tude, are described by Fremontas boiling up at irregular intervals with much noise. The largest basin he represents as being several hundred feet in circumference, and having a circular space at one end 15 feet in diameter, entirely filled with boiling water. A pole 16 feet in length was entirely submerged on thrusting it down near the center. The temperature of the water near the edge was 206°. The same authority describes an appearance similar to the mirages of the great deserts of the Old World. In traveling over the salt deserts of the Fremont basin, they saw their party reflected in the air, probably, as Fremont suggests, from saline part- icles floating in the atmosphere. Near Brown's hole, in the neighborhood of Green river, in about 41° nord latitude, and 109° west longitude, are a number of narrow canons or gorges, with nearly perpendicular walls from )00 to 800, and even 1,500 feet in hight, presenting scenes of great wild- ness and grandeur. Climate. — As elsewhere remarked, the climate of the great plateau between the Bocky and Sierra Nevada mountains, seems to partake of the characteristics of the great Tartar plains of Asia. According to Orson Pratt, the midsummer is dry and hot, the heat ranging at midday from 90° to 105°, but with cool mornings and evenings, refreshed with mountain breezes. The winters are mild, snow seldom falling more than a few inches deep in the valleys, nor does it lie long. Spring and autumn, though mild, are subject to sudden changes, and the wind is very variable, shifting, almost every day, to every point of the compass. Bain seldom falls between April and October ; but when heavy showers do come, they TERRITORY OF UTAH. 493 are generally accompanied by thunder and hail, and sometimes with strong winds. Dr. Eernhisel and Mr. Snow say that the climate of Great Salt Lake City, in latitude 40° 45' north, is milder and drier that the same paral- lel on the Atlantic coast, and the temperature more uniform, the thermo- meter rarely descending to zero. During three years, according to ob- servation, the highest point attained by the thermometer was 100° above, and the lowest 5° below zero. The variation between the temperature of day and night, in midsummer, is from 20° to 40°. Frosts in Utah valley fall as late as the last of May, and as early as the first of September. Soil and Productions. — A very small portion, comparatively speak- ing, of Utah, can ever be made available in producing food for man or beast. The few fertile spots are found in the valleys watered by the pure streams flowing from the neighboring mountains, and at the bases of most of the mountains is a strip of fertile land. The line of Mormon settlements occupy the valleys from north to south, lying near the western base of the Wahsatch mountains. These are highly fertile. Irrigation, however, is necessary even here to successful husbandry ; but large por- tions of the valleys themselves are too remote from streams to profit by irrigation. Bear, Great Salt Lake, Utah, South, Sevier, and Land Pitch valleys, are the principal agricultural districts. The upper portion of the valleys of the Green and Grand rivers is represented as " incapable of support- ing any population whatever. The Unitah and Green Eiver valleys, lying lower down on the tributaries of the Colorado, are, however, not so sterile." Wheat, rye, barley, buckwheat, Indian corn, and the garden vegeta- bles of the Middle States, are the products of Utah. There is a fine bunch-grass, which, owing to the dryness of the climate, does not decay, but furnishes fodder for the cattle during winter, without being cured. The Indian corn and vines are liable to be blighted by early and late frosts. The experiments in rearing fruits do not appear yet to have been sufficiently tested to pronounce definitely as to the congeniality of the climate with their healthful production; peaches and other fruits have, however, been raised. In 1850, there were in Utah, 16,333 acres of improved land, divided into 926 farms, producing 107,702 bushels of wheat; 210 of rye; 9,899 of Indian corn; 10,900 of oats; 289 of peas and beans; 43,968 of Irish potatoes; 60 of sweet potatoes; 1,799 of barley, and 332 of buckwheat; 70 pounds of tobacco; 9,222 of wool, 83,309 of butter; and 30,998 of cheese; live stock valued at $546,968; market produce at $23,868; slaughtered animals at $67,985; and 4,805 tons of hay; besides small quantities of grass-seeds, hops, flax, molasses; beeswax, and honey. Forest Trees. — Timber is scarce throughout this Territory, except on the mountains, and is principally composed of pine and fir trees. There are some groves of cotttonwood and box-elder in the bottoms of the principal streams, and a scrub cedar also in some of the valleys. Wood, both for building and fuel, is scarce. Animals. — This region is scarcely more fruitful in animal than vege- table life, but elk, deer, antelopes, grizzly bears, mountain sheep, foxes, 494 TERRITORY OF UTAH. and wolves are found. Water-fowl are abundant in the lakes, and trout and very fine salmon in the mountain streams. Manufactures. — Much progress in manufactures is hardly to be ex- pected in so youthful a settlement ; but Mr. Pratt represents them as starting up with vigor, particularly the manufacture of flour, and the more necessary implements of husbandry and housewifery, and the cheaper stuffs for clothing. The great distance from supplies from abroad, and the great cost of transport, must perforce, encourage home manufactures. The census of 1850 reports only 14 establishments engaged in mining, manufactures, and the mechanic arts, producing each 8500 and upward annually, employing 844,400 capital and 51 male hands, consuming raw material worth 8337,381, and yielding products valued at. $291,225. Homemade manufactures were produced in the same year to the value of $1,391. Commerce. — The trade of Utah is pretty much confined to traffic with the overland emigrants to California. They find also a ready sale for their live stock in the same State. It is possible that a trade down the Colorado river with California may be opened at some future day, as re- cent explorers report that river navigable for steamers of light draft above the Kio Virgen, in New Mexico. Education. — The American spirit seems to pervade the people of Utah on the all-important subject of education. According to Mr. Pratt, "great attention is being paid to the erection of school-houses, and the education of youth. It is in contemplation to erect a magnificent Uni- versity, in which the higher departments of science will be extensively taught." Religion. — According to the census report, there were 9 churches in Utah in 1850 — it is presumed all Mormon, though they are reported under the heading of minor sects. Number of Individuals to each church, 1,264; value of church property, $51,000. One-tenth of their property is required by their canons to be given to the church. Meas- ures have been taken for the erection of a vast temple at Salt Lake City. Counties. — Utah is divided into thirteen counties, viz., Box-Elder, CarsQn, Davis, Green River, Iron, Juab, Millard, Ogden, Salt Lake, San Pete, Tooele, Utah, and Weber. Capital, Fillmore city. Cities and Towns. — The principal town is Great Salt Lake City, population about 10,000. The other principal places are Brownsville, Ogden city, Prove city, Manti city, Fillmore city, and Parovan. These towns are mostly built of adobes or unburnt bricks, and are named (with the exception of Salt Lake City) in order, proceeding from north to south, and scattered over a space of nearly 300 miles, mostly near the base of the Wahsatch mountains. Buildings are being erected for the State capitol and State prison at Fillmore city. Population. — The population is principally composed of Mormons, who settled here in 1847, after their expulsion from Missouri and Illinois. Continual accessions of this new sect are arriving from all parts of the Union, and from Europe. According to the national census of 1850, thsre were 11,380 inhabitants; of whom 62,020 were white males; TERRITORY OF UTAH. 495 5,310 white females; 14 colored males; 10 colored females, and 26 slaves. This population was divided into 2,322 families, occupying the same number of dwellings. According to an enumeration made in 1853, by the Mormons themselves, the total population was 18,206, exclusive of Indians, of whom there are several tribes in a very degraded state, sub- sisting mostly on roots, berries, fish, etc., and living generally in caves or bushes, but sometimes in wigwams or tents, and going nearly naked. Of the white population, in 1850, 1,159 were born in the Territory; 8,117 in other parts of the Union; 1,056 in England; 106 in Ireland; 232 in Scotland; 125 in Wales, and 471 in other countries. In the year end- ing June 1, 1850, there occurred 239 deaths, or more than 21 in every 1,000 persons. Of the entire population 2 were blind, 5 insane, and 1 idiotic. Government. — The government of Utah is similar to that of other territories. History. — The materials for a history of Utah are very meagre. As has elsewhere been stated, it was a part of the Territory of Upper California, acquired from Mexico by the treaty of 1848, after the conclusion of the late war with that country. Previous to 1847, when the Mormons com- menced directing their steps thither, it had been in possession of the mis- erable tribes that gained a most precarious living from its churlish soil — undisturbed, except by the occasional visits of exploring parties or roam- ing trappers and hunters. Salt Lake City, capital of Salt Lake county, and of Utah Territory, is situated near the east bank of the Jordan river, which connects Great Salt lake with Utah lake, about 22 miles south-east of the Great Salt lake, and 4,200 feet above the level of the sea. It was laid out in July, 1847, by a company of 143 Mormons. The city contains 260 blocks of 10 acres each, separated by streets which are 128 feet wide. There are 8 houses in each block, so arranged that no two houses front each other. The houses are built of adobes or sun-dried bricks. The 4 public squares of the city are to be adorned with trees from the four quarters of the globe, and supplied with fountains. On one of these a magnificent temple is now being erected; and a gorgeous banner, con- structed of the flags of all nations, is ere long to be unfurled from the " Ensign Mount," which overlooks the new city of the " Saints." Salt Lake City contains a handsome theater, which cost above §20,000. The climate of the valley in which the city stands is very salubrious, and the soil where, it can be irrigated, is extremely fertile. Wheat is said to produce, under favorable circumstances, a hundred-fold. The mountains which enclose the valley on the east side are covered with perpetual snow. Their summits are said to be about 10,000 feet (nearly 2 miles) above the level of the sea. Population in 1853, estimated at 10,000. 496 TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO. NEW MEXICO. This Territory is a portion of the tract acquired from Mexico by the treaties of 184S and 185-1, extends from 31° 20' to 38° north latitude, and from 103° to 117° west longitude, being about 700 miles in extreme length from east to west, and about 470 miles in breadth from north to south, including an area of 207,007 square miles. It is bounded north by Utah and Kansas Territories, east by Kansas and the Indian Territories and Texas, south by Texas and Mexico, and west by California. Face of the Country, etc. — This extensive tract is for the most part a high table-land, crossed by several ranges of mountains, and generally destined to hopeless sterility. The vallies of the Rio Grande and its tributaries occupy the eastern part of New Mexico, and lie between and among different rangs of the Rocky mountain chain, which cresses the Territory from north to south. The western limit of the Rio Grande valley is the Sierra Madre mountains, and the eastern, the Juina- nes, the Del Cabello, aud other ranges of the Rocky mountains. 3Iueh the larger portion of theTerritory lies west of the Sierra 3Iadre mountains, and partakes of the general character of the Fremont basin. (See Utah.) The mountain ranges in the east are the Guadalupe, Sacramento, Organ (Sierra de los Grganos,) Sierra Blanca, Hueca, and other divisions which diverge from the main chain of the Rocky mountains, and pass off into Texas, form- ing the western boundary of the valley of the Pecos. A broken ridge of mountains coasts the Gila river for a considerable distance, com- pletely hemming it in for a great part of its course, and rising, according to Major Emory, to 4,347 and 5,274 feet, in two places estimated by him. Mount Taylor, in a south-west direction from Santa Fe, amon°- the Sierra Madre mountains, has been computed at 10,000 feet elevati in above the valley of the Rio Grande, itself a high table-land of 6,000 feet in the north part, 4,800 feet at Albuquerque, and 3,000 feet at El Paso. West of the Sierra Madre are several detached ranges of which we know but little, and which traverse a country for the most part sterile, except in occasional narrow valleys, which b irder the streams. Minerals. — It is highly probable that New Mexico abounds in the precious metals, but owing to the jealousy of the aborigines, and the unskillfulness with which, even when worked at all, they have beei managed, they have not, so far as we are informed, hitherto produced abundantly ; yet gold and silver are kuowu to exist, and mines of both metals have been worked. Gold has been found in several places between and along the Gila and Colorado rivers, and the indications are, that the precious ore will, at a future day, be largely produced here. Mines of this metal hive been worked in a district among the Placer mountains, 40 mil s south-west of Santa Fe; but it is said to be found most abundantly about the San Pedro river, which empties into TERRITORY OF XEW MEXICO. 497 the Gila from the south. Silver mines, 80 miles north-east of El Paso, and near Dona Ana, are reputed to be the richest in New Mexico. This metal also exists south of the Gila toward its mouth. Iron occurs in abundance and gypsum in large quantities has been found near Algaiones; copper is plentiful, and mines of that metal were extensively worked in the vicinity of what is now Fort Webster previous to 1838, when the forays of the Indians caused their abandonment. Gold is found in the same vicinity. Some coal is found, and salt lakes, about 100 miles south-south- east of Santa Fe, have been resorted to for that necessary culinary article. Recent reports state that silver mines have been discovered about 18 miles east of Fort Fillmore. Lead is also found. Rivers. — The Rio Grande, or Rio Bravo del Norte, as it was formerly called, which crosses the entire Territory from north to south is the largest river of New Mexico, and drains the great valley which lies between the Sierra Madre mountains on the west, and the Jumanes, and the Sierra Hueca or Waco mountains on the east. The Pecos river drains the eastern 'slope of the same mountains, and passes off into Texas. The Puerco, a river of 200 miles in length, is the principal tributary of the Rio Grande from the west; but in the hot season it is often com- pletely evaporated in the lower part of its course, rendering no tribute whatever to the parent stream. The Canadian river has its sources in the north-east of New Mexico, from which it runs in a south-east direction, to join the Arkansas. The Gila, which rises on the western slope of the Sierra Madre, runs almost directly west to its mouth in the Colorado. The Salinas, its principal tributary from the north, drains the central regions of the Territory. The San Pedro is the most important affluent from the south. The San Francisco empties itself into the Salinas. The Colorado is formed by the Green and Grand rivers, which unite in about 36° north latitude, and running south-west for about 150 miles, receives the Yirgen, turns to the south, and forms the west boundary, from 36° north latitude, to 20 miles below the mouth of the Gila. These rivers are of very little im- portance to navigation, seldom being deep enough for any craft beyond a canoe or flat-boat.* Indeed, for a great part of the year, the tributary rivers have either dry channels, or are a succession of pools. Major Emory found the Rio Grande itself but 25 yards wide, and hub-deep at Albu- querque, 300 miles from its source. He also states that it seldom rises more than two feet. Lieutenant Simpson found it 200 yards wide, and four feet deep, 150 miles further south, in September, 1849. He afterward mentions crossing in a ferry at Albuquerque. Objects oe Interest to Tourists. — Crossed as New Mexico is by lofty chains of mountains, it can not fail to possess many objects of striking interest in its scenery; but they have been hitherto imperfectly explored west of the Rio Grande. Among and beyond the Sierra Madre mountains, are vast canons, (kan-yons', j'. e. deep channels in the earth, mostly forming the beds of streams, often two or three hundred feet in depth, and almost shut out from the light of day. In the same region *A correspondent of the San Francisco Herald, in the summer of 1S54, says of the Colorado : " At no point from Fort Yuma to the mouth of the Yirgen, is the water less than 10 feet deep." 32 498 TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO. are found steep bluffs of red and white sandstone rock, worn by the action of the elements into very striking resemblances of fortresses, castles, etc. Lietenant Simpson has given some sketches of the most remarkable, in his recent work on New Mexico. One curiosity of the country is the deserted pueblos, or Indian villages, which give evidence of having been the abode of a much more dense population than subsists there at present. « Cascade Grotto," says Lieutenant Whipple, " is too wildly beautiful to pass unnoticed. A series of cascades, formed by a mineral spring, which gushes from the mountain, leap from cliff to cliff, until they join the Gila, 1,000 feet below. Beneath the first water-fall is a charming cave, filled with petrifactions. Among the Organ mountains, (themselves an object of great interest, rising as they do 3,000 feet above the river,) a little stream whose source is far within a defile, tumbles over the rocks in a single fall of 50 feet." The celebrated Captain Walker reports two extraordinary falls in the Rio Virgen, one 200 miles from its mouth, with a perpendicular descent, in one unbroken sheet, of 1,000 feet, where the stream is narrowed to 30 or 40 yards, and the canon rises on each side to a nearly perpendicular hight of 200 feet; and a second fall of 200 or 300 feet, about 30 miles higher up. The same authority thus speaks of the great canon of the Colorado: "One of the most extraordi- nary natural features on the continent, which extends for 300 miles above the mouth of the Virgen river, with lofty and almost^ perpen- dicular sides, suggesting the idea that the river had cleft its path entirely through the mountain. The waters wash up against the walls of the precipice, leaving not a foot of space between." From the same source we learn that "the country is entirely cut up with rocky ravines and fissures." A canon that Captain Walker traversed — apparently the bed of a spring-torrent — in one instance entirely closed over his head, forming a natural tunnel 200 feet deep. Climate.— The habitable part of the valley of the Rio Grande lies in the latitude of the northern and central portions of the southern States; but its climate is very much modified by its great elevation, giving it a temperate but constant climate. The mercury sometimes rises to 100°, but the evenings are always cool. Some of the higher peaks of the mountains are covered with perpetual snow. Considerable rain falls between July and October, but New Mexico has essentially a dry atmosphere, being most of the year parched where there is no irrigation. Soil and Productions. — We have already characterized the soil as generally hopelessly sterile, but this generalization is not without con- siderable exceptions, as many parts of the valley of the Rio Grande, and of other streams, are highly productive, and yield fine crops of Indian corn, wheat, and other grains, besides apples, peaches, melons, apricots, and grapes. Among the vallies of the Sierra Blanca, in the north-east of New Mexico, the pasturage is excellent ; and the large valley of San Luis in the same region, is one of the most fertile in the Territory. But in most places irrigation is necessary to successful agricultural operations. During the dry season, however, in some districts, even this resource fails, from the total evaporation of the streams. On the table-lands which are utterly useless for agriculture, there grows a pecu- TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO. 499 liar grass, which in the dry season cures and preserves its nutritious qualities. On this cattle, sheep, horses and mules feed all the winter, and preserve themselves in good condition. The mutton of New Mexico is excellent. The Indians on the Gila cultivate cotton, wheat, Indian corn, beans, melons, and other vegetables, by means of irrigation, and a small quantity of buckwheat, wine, butter, potatoes and molasses. Ac- cording to the census of 1850, there were in New Mexico 3,750 farms, occupying 166,201 acres of improved land, producing 195,515 bushels of wheat; 365,411 of Indian corn ; 15,688 of peas and beans; 8,467 pounds of tobacco; 32,901 of wool, and 5,848 of cheese; livestock valued at $1,494,629; market garden products, $6,679 ; orchard, $8,231; and slaughtered animals, $82,125. Forest Trees. — Only a small portion of the surface is covered with forests, and the country is almost entirely destitute of the hard woods. Some of the streams are fringed with cottonwood, and pine of an inferior quality occurs on the mountains. Sycamore, ash, cedar, walnut, ever- green, oak, and willow, are found in small quantities. Animals. — The deer, mountain-sheep, wild-hog, antelope, caugar, ocelot, lynx, brown, black, and grizzly bear, coyote, wolf, marmot, skunk, weasel, hare, rabbit, squirrel, beaver, and elk, are the principal quadrupeds north of the Gila; turkey, geese, brant, swans, ducks, scorpions, and lizards are met with in this Territory, through animal does not appear to be more prolific than vegetable life in this region. Manufactures. — Twenty establishments, each producing $500 and upward annually, were reported by the census of 1850 as engaged in manufactures, mining, and the mechanic arts, employing $68,000 capital, 81 hands, and raw material worth $100,000, yielding products valued at $249,010. Domestic manufactures were produced to the value of $6,033. Education. — On this head there is little to be said at present, but to speak of its absence, and to urge its introduction. According to the census report of 1850, there were in New Mexico one academy, with 40 students, 466 children attended schools, and 25,089 adults who could not read nor write, of whom 660 were of foreign birth. Religious Denominations. — In 1850, there were 73 churches, all belonging to the Roman Catholics, giving one church to every 835 in- habitants. Value of church property, $94,100. Periodicals. — In 1850, there were published in New Mexico, one weekly and one tri-weekly newspaper, with an aggregate annual circula- tion of 38,800 copies. Population. — The population of New Mexico is of a very mixed character, but composed for the most part of domesticated nomad In- dians, with an intermixture of Mexicans and Americans. According to the census of 1850, there were 61,547 inhabitants, (exclusive of Indians,) of whom 31,725 were white males, and 29,800 females; 19 free colored males, and 3 females; 38 were d^af and dumb; 98 blind; 11 insane, and 44 idiots. In the twelve months preceding June 1, 1850, there occurred 1,157 deaths, or nearly 19 in every one thousand persons. This population was divided into 13,502 families, occupying 500 TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO. 13,453 dwellings. Population to square mile, 30. Of the whole, 58,415 were born in the Territory; 772 in other parts of the United States; 43 in England; 292 in Ireland; 30 in Scotland and Wales; 215 in Grermany; 26 in France; 38 in British America ; 1,507 in other foreign countries, and 209 whose places of birth were unknown. Of the whole population, 9 were engaged in mining ; 14,084 in ordinary labor and in agriculture ; 233 in trade, 803 in manufacturing ; and 126 in the learned professions. The Indian population, according to the estimate of the Indian Bureau at Washington, was 45,000 in 1853. According to Mr. Bartlett, "In the district of country bounded on the east by the Rocky mountains, the west by the Colorado river, the south by the river Gila, and extending northward about 300 miles, there exist many Indian tribes which have attained a higher rank in civilization than any other aborigines of the North American continent north of the valley of Mexico. The tribes of which I am speaking cultivate the soil, raise wheat, corn, and other articles for their subsistance ; cotton, which they spin and weave into garments to cover their bodies ; horses and cattle; and they erect their own dwellings, of greater or less capacity. In their pottery and household implements, too, they are before all others. There is now in ruins, (situated on the Chaco, a branch of the San Juan,) the Pueblo Pintado, built of tabular pieces of hard, gray lime- stone, three stories high, and containing on the ground-floor 54 apart- ments, some of them not more than five feet square, and the largest 12 by 6; also the Pueblo Wegi-gi with a circuit of 700 feet, and containing 99 apartments on the first floor; the Pueblo Una-vida with a circuit of 994 feet; the Hungo-Pavie with a circuit of 872 feet, and 72 rooms upon the ground-floor; and the Pueblo Chettro-Kettle, with a circuit of 1,300 feet, and 124 apartments on the gound-floor. These several build- ings were of three or four stories, one receding from the other, and all built of stone. Near the latter is a ruined edifice, about 1,300 feet in oircuit, which had been four stories high, with 139 rooms on the ground- floor. Allowing each story to recede as before, and the upper apartments to correspond with those below, this building contained not less than 641 apartments. Two miles beyond this are the ruins of a still larger build- ing, called the Penasca Blanca, having a circuit of 1,700 feet. The Pueblj of Taos, in New Mexico, is one of the most remarkable now existing. It consists of an edifice about 400 feet long by 59 wide, and is divided into long ranges of apartments one above the Other, forming a pyramidal pile of 50 or 60 feet, and five or six stories in hight. This great building, it is said, affords habitations for five or six hundred people. The second class, where the tribe or community live in a village, consist of buildings generally of one story, but sometimes of two. When of the latter, the entrance is by ladders from the outside, as before mentined. The object of this is to render them perfectly isolated, and to afford them protf jtion from an enemy. To render these dwellings more secure, villages and large edifices are usually built upon the summit of a rock, or hill, and when this is not convenient on the open plateau, TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO. 501 where there is neither tree, bush, nor rock to conceal an enemy. Theso people often choose a spot near some eminence which may command a view of the adjacent country, where they may establish a look-out, and place a sentinel to give warning, if an enemy should approach." Counties. — There are eight counties in New Mexico, viz: Bernallillo, Rio Arriba, Santa Anna, Santa Fe, San Miguel, Taos, Valencia, and Socorro. Capital, Santa Fe. Towns. — The principal settlement (we use this term because the limits of the towns are not defined with much accuracy) are Santa Fe, population 4,846; LaCuesta, 2,196; St. Miguel, 2,008; Las Vegas, 1,650, Zuni or Tuni, (an Indian puebla or village,) 1,292, and Tuckelata, 1,320. Government. — New Mexico, in common with all other territories of the United States, has a governor appointed by the President and Senate of the United States, who is also superintendent of Indian affairs, and receives a salary of $2,500 per annum. It has a council of 13 members, elected for two years, and a house of representatives of 26 members, elected annually. The judiciary, appointed by the President of the United States, with the advice of the Senate, is composed of a chief and two associate judges, receiving $2,000 each per annum. As- sessed value of property in 1850, $5,063,474. Banks, none. History. — Lying in the interior, and possessing no very great induce- ments to tempt emigration thither, New Mexico has not been the theater of many striking events in history. As elsewhere stated, traces exist in the deserted and ruined pueblos of a much more dense Indian or Aztec population, in former times than at present. It formed a Mexican pro- vince or department until the conquest of Mexico by the Americans, when, in Sept. 1850, it was constituted, with a portion of Upper California and Texas, a Territory of the United States, under its present title. In 1854, its area was still further increased by a purchase of a portion of the north part of Mexico, thus extending its southern boundary in one instance to 31° 20' north latitude. The inhabitants are very much harassed by inroads from the Indians, who frequently attack the settle- ments, murder or carry off the men, women, and children, and drive off the flocks. Santa Fe. — The capital and largest town of New Mexico, is situated on the Rio Chicifo, or Santa Fe river, an affluent of the Rio Grande, from which it is distant about 20 miles in a direct line. Latitude 35° 41 north, longitude about 106° 10' west. It is the great emporium of the over- land trade which, since 1822, has been carried on with the State of Missouri. Each of the houses, which are principally built of dark-colored adobes, or unburnt brick, usually forms a square, with a court within, upon which ■nearly all the apartments open from the street. There is generally but one entrance, which is wide and high enough to admit animals with their packs. Much of the ground in an around Santa Fe is extremely sandy; and in dry weather, when the wind is high, this is a source of great annoyance. The place is well supplied with cool water from springs within its limits, and also from fountains above the city near the mountain side. Numerous acequias, (a-sa'ke-as,) or small canals, are led through the streets, and afterward serve to irrigate the gardens and fields below 502 TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO. the town for several miles. On the whole, the appearance of Santa Fe is very uninviting, and the population is exceedingly depraved. It stands on a plateau, which is elevated about 7,000 feet above the sea, and a short distance south-west of the base of a snow-capped mountain, which rises 5,000 feet above the level of the town. One or two newspapers are issued here. Population in 1850, 4,846. TEXAS Texas, with the exception of Florida, now forms the southernmost portion of the United States. It is bounded on the north by New Mexico, the Indian Territory, and Arkansas ; on the east by Arkansas and Louis- iana; on the south-east by the Gulf of Mexico ; and on south-west and west by Mexico and New Mexico. The Red river separates it in part from the Indian Territory and Arkansas, the Sabine from Louisiana, and the Rio Grande from Mexico. This State lies between 25° 50' and 36° 30' north latitude, and between 93° 30' and 107° west longitude. Its shape is very irregular, but its extreme length from south-east to north-west is more than 800 miles, and its greatest breadth from east to west about 750 miles, including an area of 237,504 square miles : an amount of territory nearly six times that of the State of Pensylvania, the greater part of which is composed of soil of great agricultural capabilities. Face of the Country. — This great State embraces every variety of surface, mountain, plain, hill, and desert within its limits. In the south- east, along the coast is a level belt of land from 30 to 60 miles in breadth, which is succeeded by an undulating and prairie country, occupying another belt of from 150 to 200 miles in width, which is followed in the west and north-west by the mountainous region and the table-land. The extreme north is invaded by the Great American Desert, which extends perhaps about 60 miles within the boundary of Texas. Ac- cording to Mr. Bartlett, the plateau of Texas, including part of New Mexico, extends from 30° to 34° north latitude, and from the Rio Grande east for 300 miles. The north portion, called Llano Estacado or "Staked Plain," is 2,500 feet above the sea. This broad district is destitute of forest trees and shrubbery, except along the margins of the streams, and even there never extending 100 yards from the banks. Just after rains a short stunted grass springs up, but speedily becomes dry, affording little nourishment. In this region rise the Red, Brazos, and Colorado rivers. About 29° 30' north latitude, the table -land breaks off into spurs, which descend to the prairies. The rivers have generally TEXAS. 503 alluvial bottoms of from 3 to 20 miles in width, which are of great fertility, and heavily timbered. The belts referred to above run across the State in a direction nearly north-east and south-west, so tbat almost all the north part of eastern Texas is included in the second division, or the undulating country. Little is known of the elevated lands of the west and north- west, as they are yet the home of few white men except the hunters, who pursue its buffaloes and other wild animals. It is, however, represented as being a well-watered and fertile region. A low range of mountains, called the Colorado hills, runs in a north and south direction, east of the Colorado river ; indeed, the whole section of the State in the same parallel, between the Colorado and Brazos rivers, is broken with low mountains. Between the Colorado and the Rio Grande, and north of the sources of the Nueces and San Antonio, the country is crossed by broken ranges of mountains runninar in various directions, but of whose altitude and character we have little reliable information. They appear, however, to be outlying ridges of the great Rocky mountain chain. Of these the Organ, Hueco or Waco, and Guadalupe mountains extend from the north- west extremity of Texas, where they terminate, in a north direction into New Mexico. According to Bartlett, the first are about 3,000 feet above the Rio Grande, and the last the same altitude above the plain. Geology. — That part of Texas which lies within about 200 miles of the coast, and perhaps further inland, appears, says Mr. Bollaert, in a paper read before the Royal Geographical Society, to have been gradually uplifted from the bed of an ancient sea, into which the great rivers of that period poured their waters, charged with the detritus of the secondary rocks. This detritus was gradually deposited in sedimentary beds at the bottom of the sea, and these deltas at length uniting, form the superficial accumulations of the level and undulating lands. This appears to be confirmed by the fact that the soils in the vicinity of the great rivers are distinguished by the peculiar ingredients brought down by the freshets of the present day. A vast belt of gypsum, (sometimes 100 miles in width,) extending from the Arkansas to the Rio Grande, passes across the north-west portion of the State. In the mountains and hills of the north- west, we have primitive formations of granites, porphyries, etc. Middle and southern Texas seem to be composed of rich surface soils, overlaid in the tertiary strata with its peculiar fossils ; then follow the oolitic systems, sandstone, and perhaps the new red sandstone. A series of measure- ments give the following elevations: — Galveston, 10 feet ; Houston, 60 feet; San Felipe de Austin, 200 feet; Columbus, 250 feet; Gonzales, 270 feet ; San Antonia de Bejar, 350 feet ; head- waters of the San Antonio, 400 feet; Rio Frio, 450 to 500 feet; Cibolo river and head-waters of the Leona river, 550 feet; 1st Sabinas, 700 feet; 2d Sabinas, 800 feet; Guadalupe river, 1,000 feet; Llano Estacado, 2,450 feet; and Guada- lupe mountains, 3,000 feet. Minerals. — Texas abounds in minerals. Lying as she does in close proximity to the gold and silver regions of Mexico and New Mexico, it is probable that she may develop in future rich supplies of the precious metals. This, however, is not left entirely to conjecture, as silver mines are known to have been worked at San Saba, and recent discoveries of 504 TEXAS. the same metal have been made upon the Bidais river. In the spring of_lS53, the country was agitated by the report of the discovery of gold mines west of the Colorado river, between it and the San Saba mountain?, and north of the Llano river, but these reports have not been confirmed, at least as to its existence in any considerable quantities. According to Haldeman's revised edition of Taylor's work on the Coal Regions of the United States, coal exists on the Trinity river, 200 miles above Galveston ; in the vicinity of Nagadoches, on the Brazos (in abundance) ; near the city of Austin, and on the Rio Grande, south-west of Bexar. It is believed that a belt, distant about 200 miles from the coast, extending south-west from Trinity river to the Rio Grande, contains this valuable mineral in various places. Iron is found in many parts of the State j there are also salt lakes and salt springs, copper, copperas, alum, lime, agates, chalcedony, jasper, and a white and red sandstone. A pitch lake, 20 miles from Beaumont, deposits of nitre and sulphur, and fire clay, are among the mi- nerals. "Formations of secondary limestone, with others of carbonifer- ous sandstones, shales, argillaceous iron ore, and bituminous coal beds, are said to occupy a large portion of the interior of Texas. Westward of these occur the inferior and silurian strata, trilobite limestone, and transition slates. Beyond all the balsatic and primary rocks of the Rocky mountains arise j while north is the great salt lake of the Brazos, and a vast red saliferous region. An immense bed of gypsum, the largest known in North America, reaching from the Arkansas to the Rio Grande river, traverses the north-west portion of Texas. Mineral springs abound ; among the most important are the Salinilla Springs, (both white and salt sulphur,) near the Trinity river in Walker county, a spring similar to White Sul- phur in Virginia, near the Bidais river ; a blue sulphur spring, also in Walker county ; a mineral spring near the Chilo, 30 miles from Bexar, formerly of great repute among the Mexicans for its medical properties; and a white sulphur spring near Carolina, in Montgomery county. Rivers, Bays, Sounds. — The coast of Texas is lined with a chain of low^ islands, which form a series of bays, sounds, and lagoons ; the most important of which are Galveston, Matagorda, Espiritu Santo, Aransas, and Corpus Christi bays, and Laguna del Madre. Commencing at Galveston bay in the north-east, they lie along the Gulf of Mexico in the order in which they are named. Galveston bay, the largest of these, extends about 35 miles inland from the Gulf of Mexico, in a direction nearly north. Matagorda bay, 60 miles long by 6 to 10 wide, and Laguna del Madre, 90 miles long by 3 to 6 wide, are sounds rather than bays, and run nearly parallel with the shore. The inlets to these are much obstructed by bars ; Galveston inlet, the best, is said to have but 12 feet water, the entrance of Matagorda bay 11 feet, and that of San Luis but 10 feet. Aransas bay extends in a north-east and south-west direction about 25 miles, by about 12 miles in width : Corpus Christi bay, 40 miles from norta to south, by 20 miles from east to west; and Espiritu Santo is 20 miles long by 10 wide ; Copano bay, opening into Aransas, is 20 miles long by 3 wide. A writter in " De Bow's Resources in the South and West," however, says—" Steamships of 1,200 to 1,500 tons, and sail vessel of 1,000 tons, can enter the port of Galveston." Texas is crossed by several TEXAS. 505 long rivers, generally rising in the table-lands of the west and north-west, and pursuing a south-east course, discharge their waters into the Gulf of Mexico. Commencing with the Rio Grande, the largest river in Texas, 1,800 miles long, and which forms its south-west boundary, and proceeding alone the coast, we have the Nueces, San Antonio, Guadalupe, Colorado, Brazos, Trinity, Neches, and Sabine, whose lengths in the order named are about 300, 250, 275, 800, 500, 400, 300, and 350 miles, as estimated by measurements on the map. The Bed river rises in the north-west of the State, and forms a large part of the north boundary line. The Canadian, a branch of the Arkansas, crosses the north projection of the State. All of these are navigable to a greater or less extent, (depending on the wetness or dryness of the season, and on local obstructions,) the Sabine for about 150 miles ; the Trinity, to Porter's Bluffs, latitude 32° 20' ; the San Ja- cinto, 50 miles; the Brazos, to Sullivan's Shoals, near latitude 31° north; the Nueces, 100 miles ; the Bio Grande, 400 miles ; and the Bed river, to Preston, latitude 34° north, and longitude 96° 20' west, (during high wa- ter.) The Colorado is obstructed by a raft 10 miles from its mouth ; but when this is removed, which it doubtless will be ere long, it will give a navigation of several hundred miles. There are a number of small rivers or tributaries navigable to some extent, and besides their value as channels of commerce, they afford in many instances excellent sites fur mill seats. There are no known lakes of importance in Texas. Sabine lake, an ex- pansion of the river of that name, near its mouth, 20 miles long, is on the boundary of Texas and Louisiana. There is a salt lake near the Bio Grande, from which large quantities of salt are annually taken. Objects of Interest to Tourists. — Among the most remarkable known natural wonders of Texas, is the Pass of the Guadalupe mount- ains, in the north-west of the State, thus described by Mr. Bartlett : " We followed the intricacies of the pass for 6 hours, winding and turning in every direction, now plunging into some deep abyss, now rising upon some little castellated spur, and again passing along the brink of a deep gorge, whose bottom, filled with trees, is concealed from our view. In one. place the road runs along a rocky shelf not wide enough for two wagons to pass, and the next, passes down through an immense gorge, walled in by regularly terraced mountains of limestone." The Castle Mountain pass is scarcely less wild and interesting. The Waco Mountain pass, on the borders of Texas and New Mexico, is on the same grand scale. Deep barancas, canons or gullies, either worn by water or rent asunder by earthquakes, yawn to a depth of many hundred feet, in its high table-lands. Captain Marcy represents the Bed river, near its source, as cutting its way through the solid rock in the north of Texas, in a canon or gorge of 800 feet in depth. A fall of 120 feet in a perpendicular pitch is reported to have been recently discovered in one of the branches of the Colorado river, which falls in one unbroken sheet of 100 feet in width. Very large bones, (apparently of the masto- don,) immense horns, vertebrae, teeth, silicified wood, oysters, mussels, ammonites, (nearly 2 feet in diameter,) fish, encrinites, trilobites, and other fossils are found near San Felipe de Austin, Columbus, Bastrop, Webber's prairie, Austin, Peach creek, Brazoria, and many other places, 506 TEXAS. but not all in any one locality. Silicified trees are particularly numerous in Houston county, mostly nearly perpendicular, inclining to the north, but some horizontal. Climate. — Texas seems to partake of a climate free from the extremes of both the torrid and temperate zones, producing in the north many of the products of the temperate, and in the south many of those of the torrid zone. While it shares the genial climate of Louisiana, it is free from its unhealthy swamp exhalations. The heats of summer are much miti- gated by the refreshing breezes from the Gulf, which blow with great steadiness during that season. In November, however, the north winds set in and sweep down the plains, with but little variation, during the months of December and January. These winds have doubtless a purifying effect on the atmosphere, by sweeping off the exhalations of the river- bottoms and the newly-broken soil; the settler on the prairies of the interior is thus freed from the miasma that exerts usually so pestilential an influence on the " clearings" of new countries and in marshy districts. Ice is seldom seen in the south part; and during the summer months the thermometer averages about 80°, and in winter from 60° to 75°. Soil and Productions. — The soil is equally favorable with the cli- mate ; for while every variety is found, from the cheerless desert to the exuberantly fertile river-bottoms, the general character is that of great fertility. The mesquit grass in west Texas yields a fine soft sward, which is green even in winter, and affords, beyond all comparison, the best natural pasture in the world. Cotton, the great staple, grows well in almost every part of the State, and that grown near the gulf is con- sidered equal to the celebrated sea-island. Indian corn, the other great staple, is also readily raised in almost every part. Two crops a year are planted, one in February, and the other about the middle of June, yield- ing often 75 bushels to the acre of shelled corn. In the undulating country, wheat, rye, oats, buckwheat, and the other small grains flourish. The level country is well adapted to the production of sugar, though it is not yet extensively cultivated. Tobacco, of a quality claimed to be equal to that of Cuba, flourishes with little care, and is doubtless des- tined to form one of the staples of Texas. Indigo, of a superior kind, is indigenous to the State. Rice can be cultivated to any extent, and the soil is well adapted to flax and lump. According to the census of 1850, there were in Texas 12,198 farms, occupying 043,976 acres of improved land, and producing 41,729 bushels of wheat; 3,108 of rye ; 199,017 of oats; 6,028,876 of Indian corn; 94,645 of Irish, and 1,332,158 of sweet potatoes ; 4,776 of barley, and 179.350 of peas and beans ; 8,354 tons of hay ; 2,344,900 pounds of butter ; 95,299 of cheese ; 380,825 of beeswax and honey; 7,351,000 pounds of cane-sugar; 23,228,800 of cotton; 88,203 of rice; 66,897 of tobacco ; 131,917 of wool; and 441,918 gallons of molasses. Live stock, valued at $10,412,927 ; slaughtered animals at $1,116,137 ; market products at $12,354 ; and orchard products at $12,505 ; besides some buckwheat, wine, grass-seeds, hops, flax, and silk. The grape, mulberry, and the delicious vanilla are indigenous and abundant. The nopal, (famous for the production of the cochineal in- sect,) the mesquit-tree, (a species of locust, very valuable for fencing and TEXAS. 507 buildinc ,) and the tea-tree, (a good substitute for the Chinese shrub,) are all native to Texas. The cacti and agave are abundant west of the Nueces. Cayenne pepper is grown in vast quantities. The fruits are no less abundant and various than its other products : here we have a peach superior to that of the north, the nectarine, the quince, the fig, the plum, the crab-apple, and a great variety of berries. Oranges, lemons, limes, and melons grow well, as do all the garden vegetables. Hickory, walnut, and pecan-nuts are plentiful. Shrubs and flowers are in profusion, and of great beauty and variety, and many of our north exotics and hothouse plants are indigenous to Texas ; such, for example, as the gaudy dahlia. Here bloom asters of every variety, geraniums, lilies, trumpet-flowers, cardinal-flowers, wax-plants, mimosas, etc. In short, a Texas prairie in spring is the very paradise of a botanist, or indeed of any lover of the beauties of nature. The forest-trees are live-oak and other varieties of that noble tree, cedar, pine, palmetto, ash, walnut, hickory, pecan, mulberry, cypress, elm, and sycamore. The east portion and the river-bottoms are the most densely timbered. " Cross Timbers " is a wooded section, stretching, says Marcy, from the Arkansas river in a south-west direction through some 400 miles, with a width varying from 5 to 30 miles. The limits of this forest are very abrupt, and form, as it were, a wall against the further progress of the arid prairies. The trees in this consist principally of post-oak and black-jack, standing at such distances that wagons can pass between them in any direction. Animals. — Texas abounds in wild animals of different kinds. The buffalo still roams in the north-west of the State, and the wild horse or mustang feeds in vast herds on its undulating prairies. Here, too, are deer, pumas, jaguars, ocelots, and wild cats, black bears, wolves, foxes, some pecaries, racoons, opossums, rabbits, hares, and abundance of squirrels. The prairie-dog, a species of marmot, burrows in the ground, and their communities extend for many miles. Mr. Bartlett mentions journeying for three days without for once being out of sight of them. "Wild cattle are in abundance. Among the mountains of the west are found the graceful antelope, the mountain goat, and the moose, (the largest of the deer kind.) Of the feathered tribes there are many varieties to tempt the cupidity of the hunter, such as prairie hens, wild geese, wild turkeys, brant, teal, cavansback and common duck, pheasants, quails, grouse, partridges, woodcock, pigeons, turtle-doves, snipes, plovers, and rice-birds. Of birds of prey are the baldheaded and Mexican eagles, vultures, hawks, and owls. Of waterfowl, besides those mentioned above, are cranes, swans, pelicans, king-fishers, and water-turkeys. Of small birds, crows, blackbirds, starlings, bluejays, woodpeckers, redbirds, martens, swallows, and wrens. Of the birds noted for beauty of plumage are the paroquet, the oriole, the whippoorwill, the cardinal, and the sweet-toned mouking bird. Of fish and reptiles there are also a great variety, and of excellent quality ; among the former are the red-fish, (a delicious fish, weighing 50 pounds,) the yellow, white, and blue codfish, sheepshead ; mullet, flounders, perch, pike, suckers, and trout ; and of the latter, alligators, gareels, rattle, water, moccasin, coachwhip, copperhead, chicken, and garter 508 TEXAS. snakes, and homed frogs and lizards. Of shell-fish are crahs, oysters, . clams, mussels, crayfish, shrimps, and hard and soft shelled turtles. Among the insects are the gadfly gnat, the cantharides or Spanish fly, the honey-bee, (in a wild State,) centipedes, and a large poisonous spider called the tarantula. Manufactures. — Texas, as a new State, has but few manufactures ; nor till her rich and beautiful prairies and fertile bottoms are occupied, will capitalists be likely to turn their attention much to this branch of industry. According to the census of 1850, there were 309 establish- ments engaged in mining, manufactures, and the mechanic arts, produc- ing each $500 and upward annually, employing $539,290 capital, and 1,042 male and 24 female hands, consuming raw material worth $394,642, and yielding products valued at $1,165,538 The homemade manufac- tures produced the same year were valued at $266,984. There were in 1850, no cotton factories, and but one woollen establishment, employing only $8,000 capital, and 4 male and 4 female hands, and producing $15,000 worth of cloth and yarn ; and 2 furnaces, employing $16,000 capital, and 35 male hands, and producing $55,000 worth of castings, pig-iron, etc. Internal Improvements. — In so recently settled a State, little ad- vance can be expected to have been made in this respect, beyond opening ordinary roads ; however, Texas, young as she is, has begun to turn her attention in that direction, and in January, 1855, 72 miles of railroad, to connect Harrisburg with Brazos, were in course of construction. Railroads are in contemplation from Galveston to Henderson, from Gal- veston to Austin, from San Antonio to Salina, from Henderson to Vicks- burg, in Mississippi, from Houston to Austin, and from Henderson to Fulton. Commerce. — This State has facilities for both internal and foreign commerce. Her most fertile districts are crossed by large rivers more or less navigable by steamboats and by smaller boats, while her numerous bays form harbors for transacting her foreign commerce. It is true her rivers are obstructed by sandbars and rafts in some instances, but these admit of removal. Although bars obstruct the inlets of her harbors, vessels, of from 1,000 to 1,500 tons may enter the port of Galveston. The principal article of export from this State is cotton. The value of exports to foreign countries for the fiscal year 1854, was $1,314,449 ; of imports, $231,423 ; tonnage entered, 5,249; cleared, 9,708; and owned in the State, 9,698, of which 2,815 was steam tonnage; vessels built, 1. In the year ending August 31, 1583, there had been brought to the shipping ports of the State, 85,790 bales of cotton, of which 16,346 were exported to European ports; and in 1854, 110,325 bales, of which 18,467 was exported to foreign ports. Trains frequently leave San An- tonio for Mexico, loaded with merchandise suitable for the demands of Chihuahua, Parras, and other north Mexican cities. Education. — According to the census of 1850, there were in Texas 2 colleges, with 165 students, and $1,000 income; 349 public schools, with 7,946 pupils, and $44,008 income; and 97 academies and other schools, with 3,389 pupils and $39,389 income. Attending school as TEXAS. 509 returned by families, 18,3S9. Of the free adult population, 10,583 could not read and write, of whom 2,488 were of foreign birth. Heligious Denominations. — Of 328 churches in Texas, in 1850, the Baptists owned 70, the Christians 5, Episcopalians 5, Free Church 7, Methodists 173, Presbyterians 47, Roman Catholics 13, Union Church 2, and minor seels, 6 — giving one church to every 649 persons. Value of church property, §206,930. Public Institutions. — The State penitentiary is located at Hunts- ville. Texas had in 1850, 3 public libraries with 2,100 volumes; 8 school and Sunday-school libraries, with 2,030 volumes; and 1 college library with 100 volumes. Periodicals. — According to the census, there were published in 1850, in this State, 5 tri-weekly and 29 weekly newspapers, with an aggregate annual circulation of 1,296,924 copies. Population. — Texas had, according to the late census, 212,592 inhabitants in 1850, of whom 84,869 were white males; 69,165 females; 211 free colored males; 186 females; and 28,700 male, and 29,461 female slaves. This population was divided into 28,377 families, occupying 27,988 dwellings; representative population, 189,327 Population to the square mile, 89. There were 3,096 deaths, or more than 14 in every 1,000 persons, in the year ending June 1, 1850. In the same period, only 7 paupers received aid from the pub- lic funds. Of the free population, 43,281 were born in the State; 92,657 in other States; 1,002 in England; 1,403 in Ireland; 278 in Scotland and Wales; 137 in British America; 8,191 in Germany; 647 in France; 5,117 in other countries; and 604 whose places of birth were unknown — making more than 11 per cent, of the free population of foreign birth. Of the entire population, 59 were deaf and dumb, of whom 10 were slaves; 73 blind, of whom 1 was free colored, and 11 were slaves; 37 were insane, of whom none were slaves; and 104 idiotic, of whom 11 were slaves. Of the entire population, 4 were engaged in mining; 31,299 in agricultural operations; 4,785 in manufactures and mechanics; 1,737 in commerce, trade, and dealing; 198 in navigating the ocean; 115 in internal navigation; and 3,246 in the learned professions and higher arts. The influx of population into Texas, both from other States and from foreign countries, is very great. Counties. — Texas is divided into eighty-eight counties: Anderson, Angelina, Austin, Bastrop, Bell, Bexar, Bowie, Brazoria, Brazos, Burle- son, Burnet, Caldwell, Calhoun, Cameron, Cass, Cherokee, Colin, Colorado, Comal, Cook, Dallas, Denton, De Witt, El Paso, Falls, Fannin, Fayette, Fort Bend, Galveston, Guadalupe, Gillepsie, Goliad, Gonzales, Grayson, Grimes, Harris, Harrison, Hays, Henderson, Hill, Hopkins, Houston, Hunt, Jackson, Jasper, Jefferson, Kaufman, Lamar, Lavacca, Leon, Li- berty, Limestone, Madison, Matagorda, McLennan, Medina, Milam, Mont- gomery, Nacogdoches, Navarro, Newton, Nueces, Orange, Panola, Polk, Red River, Refugio, Robertson, Rusk, Sabine, San Augustin, San Patricio, Shelby, Smith, Starr, Titus, Travis, Tyler, Upshur, Uvalde, Vanzandt, Victoria, Walker, Washington, Webb, Wharton, Williamson, and Wood. Capital, Austin. 510 TEXAS. Cities and Towns. — Texas has no very large towns ; the principal are Galveston, the commercial depot of the State, population in 1850, 4,177, (7,000 in 1853;) Houston, 2,396 ; San Antonio, 3.488,(6,000 in 1853;) Marshall, 1,189; Brownsville, 4,500 in 1853; and New Eraunfels, 1,298. Government. — The executive power of Texas is intrusted to a governor and lieutenant-governor, elected by the people, each for two years, the former receiving 82,000 per annum salary, and the latter, who is ex officio president of the Senate, 65 per day during the session of the legislature. The latter body is constituted, as usual in the United States, of a Senate, composed of 21 members elected for 4, and a House of Representatives, of 66 members elected for 2 years — both chosen by popular vote. The sessions of the legislature are biennial, and meet in December. Every male citizen of the United States (untaxed Indians and negroes excepted) who is over 21 years of age, and shall have resided in the State one year next preceding an election, or in the county, town, or district in which he offers to vote, shall be deemed a qualified elector, except United States soldiers, marines, and seamen. The judiciary consists — 1, of a supreme court, composed of a chief and 2 associate judges ; and 2, of 14 district courts, held twice a year in each county. There is also a county court in each county. All the judges of Texas are elected by the people for 6 years, but the governor can, on address from two-thirds of each house, remove the judges of both courts. The judges of the supreme court receive 32,000, and the district judges each $1,750 per annum. The State debt of Texas, in March, 1855, was £11,055,694; to defray part of which, Congress appropriated $7,750,000 as an indemnity for certain territory relinquished by Texas to New Mexico on the formation of the latter territory, and also for Indian depredations. Ordinary expenditures, exclusive of debt and schools, 8100,000. Taxable property in 1853, 899,155,114. In No- vember, 1851, Texas had but one bank, capital, 8322,000; circulation, 8300,000 ; coin, 8100,000. History. — The present State of Texas formed, previous to the revo- lution of 1836, the whole of the Mexican province of Texas, together with portions of the States of Tamaulipas, Coahuila, Chihuahua, and New Mexico. In consequence of the inducements held out to settlers, an extensive emigration to this region from the United States commenced in 1821, which had swelled to sufficient amount in 1832 to induce the inhabitants to demand admission as an independent member of the Mex- ican confederacy ; which being refused, resulted in a declaration of in- dependence, that, after various contests in arms, was completely achieved by the defeat and capture of the Mexican president, Santa Anna, at San Jacinto, in 1836. Up to 1845, Texas remained an independent republic, modeled after the government of the United States. In 1846 it was admitted a member of the North American confederacy, reserving the right to be divided into five States, with the institution of negro slavery. Disputes arising with Mexico as to the boundary, (Mexico claiming to the Nueces, and the United States to the Eio Grande del Norte,) war ensued, in which General Taylor gained two battles within the limits of TEXAS. 511 the present State of Texas. The treat}- witb. Mexico, at the close of this war assigned to Texas the Eio Grande as its south-west boundary. By the Compromise Act of 1850, the boundaries of Texas were somewhat modified, she conceding to New Mexico a portion of her northern terri- tory, in consideration of 810.000,000 to be paid by the United States government. The inhabitants of the west and north-west portions of Texas are sub- ject to frequent inroads from the Camanches, Apaches, and other warlike tribes, who destroy property, murder, or carry into captivity, their defenceless victims, and drive off their horses, sheep, and cattle. Galveston, a port of entry, tbe seat of justice of Galveston county, and the most populous and commercial city of Texas, is situated on an island at the mouth of a bay of its own name, about 450 miles west by south of New Orleans, and 230 miles south-east of Austin city. Latitude 29° 17' north, longitude 94° 50' west, The island of Galves- ton, which separates the bay from the Gulf of Mexico, is about 30 miles in length and 3 miles in breadth. The surface is nearly level, and has a mean elevation of only 4 or 5 feet above the water. The bay extends northward from the city to the mouth of Trinity river, a distance of 35 miles, and varies in breadth from 12 to 18 miles. The harbor of Gal- veston, which is the best in the State, has 12 or 14 feet of water over the bar at low tide. Galveston is one of the most flourishing ports on the Gulf of Mexico, and carries on an active trade. Its shipping, June 30, 1852, amounted to an aggregate of 1,489 tons registered, and 4,004 tons enrolled and licensed. " Of the latter, 3,646 tons were employed in the coast trade, and 1,808 tons in steam navigation. The foreign arrivals for the year were 21, (tons, 5,974,) of which 19, (tons, 5,480) were by foreign vessels. The clearances for foreign ports were 21, — (tons, 6,287,) of which 1,461 were in American bottoms. Steamboats make regular passages to New Orleans, and to the towns in the interior of Texas. Three or four newspapers are published here. The city contains a fine market-bouse, a town hall, about 8 churches, and several large botels. The private houses are mostly of wood and painted white, the streets are wide, straight, and rectangular, and bordered by numer- ous flower gardens. Railroads are projected from Galveston to Houston, and to Red river. First settled in 1837. Population in 1853, estimated at 7,000. 512 INDIAN TERRITORY. INDIAN TERRITORY. This is a tract of country set apart by the Government of the Unitet States as a permanent home for the aboriginal tribes removed thither from east of the Mississippi river, as well as those indigenous to the territory. It is bounded on the north by the Territory of Kansas, south by Texas, (from which it is partly separated by Red river,) east by Arkansas, and west by Texas and New Mexico. Indian territory lies between 33° 30' and 37° north latitude, and between 94° 30' and 103° west longitude, being about 450 miles long and from 35 to 240 miles in width, including an area of perhaps 71,127 square miles. The recently formed Territory of Kansas, and a portion of the south of Nebraska, were constituted from the territory originally included within the so-called Indian Territory. Face of the Country. — There is a general inclination of the country from the base of the Rocky mountains, on the western border of Indian Territory, toward the Mississippi river, with a slight inclination to the south-east. A vast, barren and sandy tract, generally known as the Great American Desert, occupies the north-west portion of the ter- ritory. The rest of the territory spreads out, for the most part, into undulating plains of great extent, with the exception of the Ozark or Washita mountains, which enter the east portion of the Indian Territory from Arkansas. This territory, however, has been too imperfectly explored to enable us to speak with great precision of its surface. Rivers. — Indian Territory is drained by the Arkansas and Red rivers, with their tributaries; these all have their sources among or near the Rocky mountains, and flowing in an east or south-east direction, across or on the borders of the territory, discharge their waters into the Mississippi. None of these rivers have their source within the territory. The Red river forms part of the south boundary, while the Arkansas passes through Indian Territory into the State of the same name. The tributaries of the Arkansas are the Cimorron, Neosha, Verdigris, and the north and south forks of the Canadian; those of the Red river are the Washita, False Washita, and little Red river; all having nearly an east course, except the Necsha, which runs south. These rivers have generally broad and shallow channels, and in the dry season are little more than a series of sandy pools; in the winter and spring only are they navigable by flat-boats and canoes, or for steamboats (if at all) near their months. The Arkansas and Red rivers are both navigable for steam- boats, but to what distance we are not accurately informed. The Arkansas has sourse of about 2,000 miles, and Red river, of 1,200 miles. Climate.— >f the climate we have little definite information, but that of the east poi on is probably similar to the climates of Arkansas and Missouri, on wl Ii it borders. The summers are long and extremely dry, the days being very hot, with cool nights. INDIAN TERRITORY. 513 Soil and Productions. — On this point our information is limited. The east portion, occupied by the partly-civilized Indians, is represented as fertile prairie land, intersperced "with mountain and flat hills" for an extent of 200 miles westward from the boundary of Arkansas. On the borders of the streams are strips of woodland, mostly cotton-wood and willows; the country is, however, generally destitute of timber. Th Cross Timbers, thus described by Captain Marcy, are partly in this terri tory: — "A narrow strip of woodland, called the Cross Timbers, from 5 to 30 miles wide, extending from the Arkansas river some 500 miles in a south-west direction to the Brazos, divides the arable land from the great prairies, for the most part arid and sterile." The north-west portion of the Territory is mostly a barren, dreary waste " of bare rocks, gravel, and sand," destitute of all vegetation, except, perhaps, a few stunted shrubs, "yuccas, cactuses, grape-vines, and cucurbitaceous plants." The water is brackish, and the surface in many places covered with saline efflores- cences. The eastern prairies are well adapted to grazing, and the pro- ducts of the adjoining States flourish there. Animals. — Vast herds of buffaloes and wild horses roam over its prairies, and antelope, deer, prairie-dog, and some other animals are found ; wild turkeys, grouse, etc., are among the birds. Upon the other points generally treated of in our articles on the States and Territories, we have too little reliable information to speak in a work meant to be one of facts, and not of conjectures. Indian Territory forms a part of the great Louisiana tract purchased by President Jefferson from France, in 1803. The United States Government have military stations at Fort Gibson, on the Arkansas ; Fort Towson, on the Red ; and Fort Washita, on the Washita. The Territory of Kansas, with a portion of Nebraska, was formed from what was formerly called Indian Territory, in 1854. Population. — We have no census returns of the population of this Territory, but the east portion is mainly in the possession of tribes removed thither by the United States Government, including, among others, the Choctaws, Chickasaws, Creeks, Cherokees, Senecas, Shawnees, and Semi- noles. The central and west portions are roamed over by the Osages, Camanches, Kioways, Pawnees, Arrapahoes, and some other nomad tribes. Some of the removed tribes have made considerable advances in agriculture and the industrial arts, and have established schools and churches, while others are relapsing into indolence and vagrancy, and, following the common fate of the savage when in contact with the civil- ized man, are fast diminishing under the influence of intemperance and /icious connections with abandoned whites. 33 %! • ^ 514 TERRITORY OF KANSAS. TERRITORY OF KANSAS. This Territory was formed by act of Congress passed May, 1854, and lies between 37° and 40° north latitude, and between about 94° 30' and 107° west longitude. About 100 miles of the west portion lies between 38° and 40° north latitude. It is bounded on the* north by Nebraska Territory, east by the States of Missouri and Arkansas, south by Indian Territory and New Mexico, and west by New Mexico and Utah. This Territory is about 630 miles in length, from east to west, and 208 in its widest, and 139 in its west part, including an area of nearly 114,798 square miles. The Rocky mountains separate it from Utah, and the Missouri river forms a small part of the north-east boundary. Face op the Country. — (We quote Hale and his authorities.) The face of the country is nearly uniform fronf-^he State line to the base of the mountains, being one continued succession of gently undulating ridges and valleys, the general inclination of the ridges is north and south, but they are thrown into various other directions by the course of the streams and the conformation of the valleys. The first district varies in width from 80 to 200 miles. The second district, separated from the first by a tortuous belt of 100 yards in width, presents to the eye a surface apparently of sand, but covered with grasses and rushes, especially in the valleys and hollows, where grass is abundant during the whole season. This district extends from Sandy creek west about 350 miles. The third district, a narrow, irregular belt, is a formation of marl and earthy limestone, continued south from Nebraska. In this district occur those peculiar formations called "buttes," varying in width from 100 feet to several hundred yards, with flat surfaces, and nearly perpen- dicular sides, apparently formed by the subsidence of the surrounding land. The fourth district is somewhat similar to the first, at the base of the Black hill, where it has been enriched for ages by the debris but there is more wood upon it. The east portion is pastoral, but the west, skirting the hills, fertile, finely timbered, and watered, abound- ing in game, wild fruits, and flowers. The first district, occupying the space between the Black hills and the Rocky mountains, pre- sents every variety of hill and dale, mountain and valley, traversed by rivulets, and adorned with lakes; west of this succeeds a sterile expanse of many miles, covered with waving lines of sand, and surrounded by peaks of bare granite; there are, however, some rich valleys, and the hol- low mumur of rivulets may be heard beneath your feet. The first district has a limestone basis, and the great coal-fields of Missouri extend 30 or 40 miles into it. This portion is unrivaled in fertility, and has valuable forest-trees, including hickory, ash, walnut, and sugar-maple, but it is not quite so well timbered as the country in the same range in Missouri. The valley of the Kansas is here from 20 to 40 miles wide, has a deep alluvium, and is very productive. The valley of the Missouri is of a TERRITORY OF KANSAS. 515 similar character. Between the Nebraska and Platte rivers, says Pro- fessor James, the surface of the country presents a continued succession of small rounded hills, becoming larger as you approach the rivers. The soil is deep, and reposes on beds of argillaceous sandstone and secondary limestone. The second district is underlaid by sandstone; the basis of the third is not known, nor is that of the fourth and fifth. Coal is be- lieved to exist plentifully in the last two, as well as an abundant supply of water-power. Rivers. — The rivers following the declination of the country all have an east or south-east course, with the exception of some of the smaller tributaries. The Missouri forms the north-east boundary through nearly a degree of latitude, with but little variation to the west, though with many windings. The Kansas, the largest river, whose course is mostly within the Territory, joins the Missouri just before this river enters the State of Missouri. Including its main branches, the Eepublican and Smoky Hill forks, it has a course of from 800 to 1,000 miles. The lat- ter runs nearly through the middle of the Territory, in a direction a little north of east. The Republican fork rises in the north-west of Kansas, but soon passes into Nebraska, which it traverses for from 200 to 300 miles, when it returns to Kansas, and joins the Smoky Hill fork in about latitude 39° 40' west. The principal tributaries of the Kansas below the junction are, from the north, the Big Blue river, rising in Nebraska, and by far the largest, Egoma-saha, Soldier's creek, Santelle, and Stranger rivers, and from the south Wacharasa. The chief affluents of the Smoky Hill fork are the Great Saline and Solomon's forks, both from the north. The Osage rises near 97° west longitude, south of the Kansas, and passes east into Missouri. The Arkansas rises on the west boundary, and has, with the exception of a slight bend into New Mexico, about half its course in this Territory. The Neosho, the Verdigris, and the Little Arkansas are its principal tributaries from Kansas, all in the south-east portion. The Little Osage and Marmaton have their sources in this Territory. The Platte has its origin in the north of Kansas, and runs north into Nebraska. Steamboats ascend the Kansas to Fort Riley, and the Arkansas, at high water, 100 miles within the Territory. The rivers in general have broad, shallow beds, which, in dry seasons, form little more than a series of pools. Objects of Interest to Tourists. — Prominent among these stands Pike's peak, near the west border of Kansas, which soars to the esti- mated hight of 12,000 feet, and is always covered with snow. The usual variety, that characterizes mountainous regions, of gorge, precipice, pass, peak, valley, and cascade, is here exhibited. The South park is a beautiful natural enclosure, covered with grass and surrounded by mountains, at a great elevation above the sea. The buttes have been already referred to. Even in the^east and middle sections, splendid panoramic views may be enjoyed from the river-bluffs, which rise from 50 to 500 feet. Minerals. — Reddish, yellow, and 'blue limestone, with a tendency to crystallization, chert, granite feldspar, red sandstone, (often occurring in boulders of several tons weight,) and coal in several places, are the K 516 TERRITORY OF KANSAS. known minerals, besides, pebbles of granite, quartz, and porphyry, with some large blocks of porphyritic granite. Forest Trees. — For 200 miles west of the Missouri, several varieties of oak, ash, sycamore, hickory, buckeye, walnut, hackberry, sugar-maple, and surnac are found, in considerable abundance on the river-bottoms ; while in the second district timber is very scarce, except a few cotton- wood and willow trees on the margin of the streams. In the mountain- ous regions of the west, forests of cedar, pine, poplar, and quaking-ash clothe the slopes of the Rocky mountains, while the river-bottoms are covered with cottonwood, willow, box-elder, cherry, current, and service bushes. Zoology. — The buffalo, elk, deer, antelope, prairie dogs, and squirrels are among the quadrupeds; and of the feathered tribes there are the wild-turkey and goose, prairie hen, partridge, golden oriole, blue jay, red bird, crow, and a great variety of the smaller birds. Among the reptiles is the horned frog. Forts and Stations. — First among these are the forts, viz : Fort Riley, near the confluence of the Republican and Solomon's forks of the Kansas ; Fort Leavenworth, on the Missouri river, 31 miles above the mouth of the Kansas ; Fort Atkinson, on the Arkansas, near the 100° of west longitude; and Bent's Fort, on the Arkansas, between 108° and 104° west longitude. The stations are Walnut Creek post-oflBce, on the Arkansas, at the mouth of the creek of that name, and near the 99° of west, longitude ; Big Timbers, a favorite council-ground and rendezvous, 35 miles below Bent's Fort; Pueblo de San Carlos, on the Upper Arkan- sas, in the 105° of west longitude; a post-office at the Delaware city, 10 miles above the mouth of Kansas; Elm Grove, a noted camping-ground, 25 miles west of Westport, Missouri ; and Council Grove, a famed stopping place on the Santa Fe trail, in about 38 |° north latitude, and 96f ° west lon- gitude. There are besides a large number of missionary stations, among which are the Kickapoo, 4 miles above Fort Leavenworth ; the Iowa and Sac, near the north boundary ; the Shawnee, (Methodist,) 8 miles up the Kansas; and 2 miles from it the Baptist, and at 3 miles the Friend's School. Sixty miles up the Kansas is the Catholic mission among the Pottawa- tomies; Meeker's Ottowa mission, south of the Kansas river, near the Missouri line ; and near it the Baptist Missionary and Labor School ; and the Catholic Osage mission, on the Neosho river, in the south-east of the Territory, which has one of the largest missions and schools in Kansas, and has 10 sub-missionary stations within 60 miles of it, which are visited monthly from it. Population. — The population of this new Territory is mostly com- prised of wholly or partly-domesticated Indians, (in many instances removed thither from east of the Mississippi,) and of the nomad tribes of the interior and west portion of Kansas. Among the former are tho Sacs and Foxes, Iowas, Kickapoos, Pottawatomies, Delawares, Shawnees, Kansas, Chippewas, Ottawas, Peorias, Kaskaskias, Piankashaws, Weas, Miamies, Osages, and Cherokees ; the latter are only partly in this Ter- ritory. Of the nomad tribes, the principal are the Camanches, Kiowas, Cheyennes, and Arapahoes. Large portions of the claims of the domes- TERRITORY OF NEBRASKA. 517 ticated Indians have already been extinguished, and this process is still going on, and they will probably soon have sold all, and have been removed, or absorbed in the mass of the citizens. Intemperance, im- providence, and disease are powerfully co-operating with the greed of the white man in sweeping them from the face of the earth. That portion of them — and there is such a portion — who are receiving the education and habits of civilization from the missionaries, will probably be gradually incorporated with the mass of citizens. Government and History. — The government of Kansas is similar to that of other territories of the United States. — See Minnesota. Kansas formed part of the great Louisiana purchase acquired from France in 1803, and subsequently formed part of the Missouri, Arkansas, and Indian Territories, from which last it was, (as has been stated,) in 1854, erected into a separate Territory, after a stormy debate in the national Congress as to whether the Missouri Compromise (an act passed in 1820, forbidding slavery north of 36° 30' north latitude) should be repealed. The repeal was carried by a large majority in the Senate, and a decided one in the House ; it being thus left to a majority of the white inhabitants of the Territory, when they may apply for admission into the confederacy as a State, to allow or forbid slavery as they may deem proper. TERRITORY OF NEBRASKA. This Territory lies between 40° and 49° north lattitude, and between 95° and 113° west longitude. Length, from south to north, 625 miles ; greatest length, from south- east to north-west, about 1,000 miles; greatest breadth, from east to west, above 600 miles. It covers an area of about 335,882 square miles, or land enough to form six such States as Illinois. This vast tract i bounded on the north by British America, east by Minnesota Territory and the^ States of Iowa and Missouri, (from which it is separated by the Missouri and White Earth rivers,) south by Kanzas Territory, and west by Utah, Oregon, and Washington Territories, from which it is separated by the Rocky mountains. Face op the Country. — The greater part of this Territory, as far as is known, seems to consist of a high prairie land. A chain of highlands, called the Black hills, runs from near the Platte river, in a north-east direction, to the Missouri river, which they approach in about 102° west 518 TERRITORY OF NEBRASKA. longitude, dividing the waters running into the Yellowstone from those flowing into the Missouri, below its great south-eastern bend. On the west, the Rocky mountains rear their lofty summits, in some instances above the snow-line, and send out spurs into Nebraska. Fremont's peak, the loftiest known summit in this chain, in the United States, on the west border of this Territory, is 13,570 feet in hight, and Long's peak, at the south-west extremity, about 12,000 feet. A recent authority, writing on the spot, thus speaks of Nebraska : " The soil, for a space varying from 50 to 100 miles west of the Missouri river, is nearly identical with that of Missouri and Iowa. The highlands are open prairie grounds, covered with grasses ; the river bottom, a deep, rich loam, shaded by dense forest trees. From this district to about the mouth of the Running Water river, is one boundless expanse of rolling prairie, so largely inter- mingled with sand as to be unfit for agriculture, but carpeted with suc- culent grasses. A third district, extending in a belt mauy miles east and west of the Mandan village, on the most north bend of the Missouri, and southward across the southern boundary of the Territory, is a formation of marl and earthy limestone, which can not be otherwise than very pro- ductive. A fourth district, lying north of the Missouri river, is a suc- cession of undulating plains, fertile, but rather dry, and covered with a thick sward of grass, on which feed innumerable herds of bison, elk, and deer. A fifth district is at the base of the Black hills, extending from thence to the Rocky mountains, and including the valleys of the Yellow- stone, Maria's, and other smaller rivers. The valley of the Yellowstone is spacious, fertile, and salubrious. The streams are fringed with trees, from whence the valley expands many miles to the mountains. This region is one of the finest on the globe." Coal has been found in the north-western counties of Missouri, and it is probable may be found in the south-east portion of Nebraska. The limestone formation of Missouri and Iowa extends over the first district of Nebraska, described in the passage just quoted. Beyond that district the formation is sandstone, and rocks of the diluvian period — the former south and west of the Missouri, chiefly, and the latter north of it. Coal has been seen cropping out in various places along the Nebraska river, in the south-west part of the Territory, by Fremont, and other travelers. The first district is the only really good agricultural region at present. It is a rich loam, finely timbered and watered. The second is strictly pastoral. The third has soil, but is destitute of timber, and very sparsely supplied with springs. The fourth also has soil, but has the same draw- backs. The fifth, as already stated, is one of the finest regions on the globe, in the same latitude. Rivers.— This extensive tract is traversed by the Missouri, one of the most important rivers on the globe, which takes its rise on the western border of Nebraska, among the declivities of the Rocky mountains, runs north-east for about 1,000 miles, to 48° 20' north latitude; receiving a large number of affluents from the north, and the Yellowstone, nearly 1,000 miles long, with a multitude of sub-tributaries from the south ; then turning to the south-east, pursues its course for 1,800 miles further, having its flood of waters swelled by the influx of a constant succession TERRITORY OF NEBRASKA. 519 of streams, among which the principal are in the order named — the Little Missouri, the Mankizilah or Lower White Earth, the Niobrarah and its affluent the Kehah Paha, and the Nebraska or Platte river, all within the Territory. The most important of the northern tributaries, beginning at the west, are the Gallatin, Madison, and Jefferson rivers (whose con- fluence forms the main stream), followed by the Dearborn, Maria's, Milk, Upper White Earth, and numerous small streams. The Platte or Nebraska, which gives name to the Territory, rises in two branches, one in the west of Kansas, and the other in the south-west part of Nebraska, and flows east for about 1,200 miles through the south part of this region. The Big Horn and Tongue rivers are the principal tributaries of the Yellowstone. The Missouri is navigable to the Great falls, about 3,830 miles from the Gulf of Mexico, and Col. Stevens is of opinion it might be navigated by small steamboats 200 or 300 miles above the falls. The Yellowstone has been navigated for 80 miles by steamboats, and it may be ascended 200 or 300 further by flatboats. The El Paso steamer ascended the Nebraska in the spring of 1853, to the distance of 400 or 500 miles, but this river can only be navigated at the highest water, and even then the navigation is difficult. As its name imports, it is broad and shallow, and during the dry season is, in parts, only a series of pools. The spring freshets in the Missouri usually occur about the 1st of June. Objects of Interest to Tourists. — The Great falls of the Missouri, and the gorge above, enclosed with perpendicular rocks 1,200 feet high, may claim the first place among the striking natural objects of this Terri- tory. The falls extend through a space of many miles, and vary in hight from 19 to 87 feet, the hight of the Great fall. Near 42° north latitude, and 103° west longitude, on the head waters of Lower White Earth river or Mankizilah, and between Fort Laramie and the Missouri, is a remarkable tract or valley, about 30 miles wide, and perhaps 80 or 90 long, called Mauvaises Terrcs, or " bad lands," from its thin, sterile soil, which is covered with only a very scanty growth of grass. The appearance of this region presents a most striking contrast to that of the adjacent country. " From the uniform, monotonous, and open prairies, the traveler suddenly descends 100 or 200 feet into a valley that looks as if it had sunk away from the surrounding world, leaving standing all over it thousands of abrupt, irregular, prismatic and columnar masses, fre- quently capped with irregular pyramids, and stretching up to a hight of from 100 to 200 feet or more. So thickly are these natural towers Btudded over the surface of this extraordinary region, that the traveler treads his way through deep, confined, labyrinthine passages, not unlike the narrow irregular streets and lanes of some quaint old town of the European continent. One might almost imagine oneself approaching some magnificent city of the dead, where the labor and genius of forgotten nations had left behind them the monuments of their art and skill." In one sense, this region is truly a great "city of the deed," as it contains, in the most extraordinary profusion, the fossil skeletons of various tribes of animals now extinct, particularly of the Pachydermata. Among others, there was found a nearly entire skeleton of the Paloeotherium, 520 TERRITORY OF NEBRASKA. eighteen feet in length. Unhappily its substance was too fragile te admit of removal. Fremont's Peak, 13,579 feet high, and Long's Peak, 12,000 feet high, both already referred to, lie in the west and south-west part of the Territory, the former immediately on the boundary of Oregon. The bluffs, which often recede for several miles from the rivers, fre- quently rise from 50 to 500 feet above the bottom-lands, and present the appearance of castles, towers, domes, ramparts, terraces, etc. In the third district described above, elevations " called buttes by the Canadian French, and cerros by the Spaniards, are profusely scattered. Here and 'there the traveler finds the surface varying in diameter from 100 feet to a mile, elevated from 15 to 50 feet above the surrounding surface. They are not hills or knobs, the sides of which are more or less steep and covered with grass. Their sides are generally perpendicular, their sur- faces flat, and often covered with mountain cherries and other shrubs. They have the appearance of having been suddenly elevated above the surrounding surface by some specific cause." Climate. — In a region extending through 9° of latitude and 18° of longitude, there must necessarily be considerable variation in temperature and climate. Though the climate of Nebraska has not been accurately ascertained, enough is known, however, for practical purposes. In east- ern Nebraska vegetation is some weeks later than in Iowa, and in the vicinity of the mountains some weeks later still. From the city of St. Louis, traveling either northward or westward, the climate becomes colder about in the same degree — the difference of elevation, traveling west, being about equivalent in its effects to the difference of latitude traveling north. Snow falls at the foot of the mountains about the 1st of September, and at Council Bluffs about the 1st of November. These may be regarded as the extremes. Soil and Timber. — We will briefly recapitulate the best soils as far as ascertained. Near the south-east extremity, the soil is often 14 feet deep. The valleys of the Yellowstone and its tributaries are represented as the garden of Nebraska. For about 250 miles west of the Missouri river, says Hale, the prairie through which the Nebraska passes is very rich and admirably adapted to cultivation ; and the whole "divide" for the distance named, between the Kansas and Nebraska, is a soil easy to till and yield- ing heavy crops. Much of the prairie region, where untillable, is yet covered with rich pastures. Deficiency of timber is the great want of Nebraska ; yet there are many well-timbered districts. There are dense forests of cottonwood, on the Missouri bottoms, from the mouth of the Nebraska to Minnesota, and on the bluffs and highlands bordering the Missouri river, large tracts of timber, besides countless groves of oak, black walnut, lime, slippery elm, ash, etc. The Nebraska valley is stated to be densely wooded for many miles on each side, to a distance of more than 100 miles above its mouth, and the valleys of the rivers and streams between it and the Lower White Earth as sufficiently well timbered for dense settlement. The space between the Yellowstone and Missouri is also said to be well wooded. Fir, pine, spruce, and cedar are found in the region of the Black hills and Rocky mountains, and may, at a future TERRITORY OF NEBRASKA. 521 day, furnish lumber to the eastern portion of the Territory, by floating it down the great rivers Yellowstone, Missouri, and Nebraska. Animals. — This country is the paradise of the hunter and trapper. Vast herds of buffalo roam over its prairies, though now rapidly diminish- ing in numbers. Lewis and Clark have stated that at times the Missouri •was backed up as by a dam, by the multitude of these animals crossing. The frizzly bear, Eocky mountain goat, sheep, and antelope, infest the slopes of the Eocky mountains ; and the beaver in former times existed in great numbers, though the trappers are now fast thinning them out. Otters also are found. Panthers were met with by Lewis and Clark and others ; also black bear?, deer, elks, and wolves. Commerce. — The fur and peltry trade constitutes the commerce of this vast region. Steamboats ascend the Missouri above the mouth of the Yellowstone, and up the latter river 300 miles. Forts and Stations. — The principal forts are Fort Kearney, on the Nebraska river, in about 40° 35' north latitude, and 98° 50' west longitude ; Fort Laramie, on a tributary of the Nebraska, (bearing its own name,) in about 42° 10' north latitude, and 104° 30' west longitude; Fort St. Vrain, on the South fork of the Nebraska, in about 40° 20' north latitude, and 104° 50' west longitude ; Fort Benton, at or near the junction of the Maria's river with the Missouri, in about 47° 30' north latitude, and 109° 30 west longitude ; Fort Union, at the junction of the Yellowstone and Missouri, in. about 48° north latitude, and 104° west longitude ; ForJ» Mandan and Clark, on opposite sides of the Missouri, in about 47° 30' north latitude, and 101° west longitude ; Fort Pierre, on the Missouri, in about 44° 30' north latitude, and 100° 30' west longitude; and Forts Manuel, Berthold, and Alexander, all on the Yellowstone. Lewis and Clark passed the winter of 1805 at Fort Mandan, since which time it has not been occupied. Among the prominent stations are Bellevue, on the Missouri, 9 miles above the mouth of the Nebraska, here is an Indian agency and school among the Ottoes and Omahas ; Nebraska Depot, a ferry 3 miles below the river of that name ; Nebraska Center post-office, a little below Fort Kearney, and Table Creek post-office, at old Fort Kearney, 30 miles below the mouth of the Nebraska river ; Omaha City, the capital, and Council Bluffs, on the Missouri, the site of Old Fort Calhoun, 25 miles above Kanesville, Iowa. Population. — The population is almost wholly composed of the abo- rigenes, though emigration has already begun to flow in rapidly since the organization of the Territory, in May, 1854. The principal tribes of Indians are the Mandans, Minetarees, Crows, Ottoes, Omahas, Puncahs, Pawnees, Eicarees or Arricarees, Gross Ventres, Fall or Eapid Indians, Black Feet, Missourees, and a colony of Half Breeds— the last between the Great and Little Nemaha rivers, in the south-east corner of the Territory. Of these the Black Feet, a numerous and warlike tribe, roam over the whole eastern slope of the Eocky mountains, north of the Nebraska river, and even into British America. The Dacotah or Sioux tribes roam over the northern and western part of Nebraska, and are divided into the Pruelle, Y"aneton, Two-Kettle, Black-Feet-Sioux, Ouk-pa-pas, Sans- Arcs, and Minnie. The Crow Indians or Ups-arokas, are on the waters of the V 522 TERRITORY OF MINNESOTA. Yellowstone. The Puncahs, Omahas, and ©ttoes — all speaking a dialect of the Dacotahs or Sioux — are in the south-east part of the territory, near the Missouri river. The Missourees have joined with the Ottoes. West of the latter tribes, and north of the Nebraska and west of the Missouri, are the Pawnees, a numerous tribe. The total population of the Missouri valley, in 1853, was estimated, by the Indian Department, at 43,430. Settlements are now making in Nebraska at Old Fort Kearney, and some other points south of the Platte, and at Believue, Omaha City, and fort Calhoun on the north; also, at the crossings of Elk horn, Loup fork, and Wood rivers, on the California road, north of the Platte. Omaha City is the capital. History. — The valley of the Missouri was first visited by Father Marquette, in the last half of the 17th century. La Salle followed him in 1681-82. Nebraska formed a part of the great grant of the Mississipi valley to Crozart, in 1712; and was the object of Law's celebrated Mis- sissipi Scheme. This territory came into possession of the United States in 1803, as a part of the Louisiana purchase, and successively formed parts of that and the Missouri and Indian Territories. In 1804-05 an expedition, commanded by Lewis and Clark, under the direction of the United States government, ascended the Missouri river, wintered at Fort Mandan, and the next spring crossed the Eocky mountains to the present Territory of Oregon, and are believed to have been the first explorers of the interior and western parts of Nebraska. In May, 1854, the Congress of the United States erected this region into a separate territory, reserv- ing however the right to subdivide it. TERRITORY OF MINNESOTA. This Territory is bounded on the north by British America, east by Lake Superior and the State of Wisconsin ; south by Iowa and Missouri Ter- ritory, and the west by Nebraska Territory. The Lake of the Woods, with a chain of small lakes and their outlets, forms a part of the northern boundary, the St. Croix and Mississippi a part of the eastern, and the Missouri and White Earth rivers the western boundary. It lies between 42° 30' and 40° north latitude, and between about 89° 30' and 103° west longitude, being about 650 miles in extreme length from east to west, and 430 from north to south, including an area of nearly 166,025 square miles, or 106,256,000 acres. Face of the Country. — Though there are no mountains in Min- TERRITORY OF MINNESOTA. 523 nesota it is the most elevated tract of land between the Gulf Meixco and Hudson's bay: and from its central bights sends its waters to every point of the compass, but mostly to the north and south ^position from wbich the Red river of the north and the St. Peter s take their opposite courses is almost exactly in the center of the lerritory and elevated about 2.000 feet above the Gulf Mexico. A plateau, called the '•Coteau des Prairie," or "Prairie Hights," about 200 miles in length, and from 15 to 40 in breadth, runs through the middle of th e scrattt- ern part of Minnesota. Its greatest elevation is about 1,91b feet above the level of the sea, and its average bight about 14o0 feet, lhe northern portion whieh is the highest, is about 890 feet above Bigstone lake, which lies in its vicinity. Passing the St. Peter s or Minnesota river ,e come upon another range of bights, known as the Cotean du Grand Boi* or the Wooded Rights, which extend for more than 100 miles nearly parallel with the Coteau des Prairies. This ridge is mostly covered with an extensive forest of hard wood. Through the middle of the triangle which occupies the north-east portion of the Territory runs a third range of hights, called the « Hauteurs de Terre," or " Highlands, which ex- tend west by south about 300 miles, and forms a dividing ridge, whence flow the waters that seek Lake Superior and the Mississippi in one direc- tion, and Hudson's bay in the other. A range of less altitude than the " Coteau des Prairies, but continuing in the same direction, forms the watershed of the streams flowing into the Missouri on the west, and those flowing into the Red river on the east. The rest of the country generally alternates between sandhills and swamps. Geology.— Minnesota, east of the Red river of the north, is mostly covered with drift, lying on crystalline and metamorphic rocks, wnich occasionally protrude to the surface in the valleys of the rivers and on the shores of lakes. In the south-east, the lower magnesian limestone crops out in the valleys of the Mississippi and St. Peter s rivers; and on the latter river the sandstone occasionally obtrudes in a few places, with oc- casional intrusions of igneous rocks. On the shores of Lake feupenor are " alternations of metamorphic schists, slates, and sandstones, with volcanic grits and other bedded traps and porphyries, intersected by numerous basaltic and greenstone dikes, with occasional deposits of red clay marls, and drift." In the north-east angle of Minnesota is a tract of hornbleudic and argillaceous slates, with bedded porphyries and intru- sions of green stone and granite. On the Lake of the Woods, Rainy lake, and their outlets, are metamorphic schists, with gneiss and gueis- soid rocks. Minerals.— The indications from geological surveys of Minnesota do not favor the hopes of great metallic weaita within its borders. Cop- per has been found, but in most instances it is not "in place," but ap- pears to have been carried thither by the drift and boulders, lhe pro- bability is that, of richer metallic ores than iron, this Territory will not afford (except near Lake Superior) sufficient quantity to repay the labors of the miner; for, if they exist at all, they probably he at great depths. The indications are equally unfavorable to there being any large deposits of coal. A lead vein, 4 inches in thickness, was discovered on the *» 524 TERRITORY OF MINNESOTA. Waraju river by the geological crops of Professor Owen. The most re- markable mineral in this Territory is the red pipestone, of which the Indians make their pipes, and which is believed to be peculiar to the region of the Coteau des Prairies. A slab of this stone has been, or is to be, sent to Washington, to be inserted in the great national monument erecting to the memory of the father of his country. Salt exists in vast quantities between 47° and 49° north latitude, and 97° and 99° west longitude. Lakes and Rivers. — Minnesota is perhaps even more deserving than Michigan of the appellation of the "Lake State," as it abounds in lacustrine waters of every size, from lakes of 40 miles in extent, to small ponds of less than a mile in circuit. These beautiful sheets of water give origin to rivers flowing north, south, and east, some finding their way to the Atlantic through the mighty Mississippi and the Gulf of Mex- ico; others through the great lakes, Niagara, and the St. Lawrence; and others, again, pass off to the north, and seek the ocean through Hud- son's bay and straits. The largest of these lakes, with the exception of Lake Superior, and the Lake of the Woods, Rainy lake, Red, Minni-Wakan or Devil lake, Leech, and Mille Lac or Spirit lake. These generally have clear, pebbly bottoms, and are well stocked with fish, among which are white fish, pike, pickerel, maskelonge, sucker, perch, and trout. Wild rice grows on the borders of many of them, especially at the north. Devil lake, which is on the 48th parallel of north latitude, in the north-west of Minnesota, is about 40 miles in length by 15 in breadth, and its waters, which are brackish, have no visible outlet. Red lake, on the same parallel, east of Red river, with which it communicates, is divided into two portions, united by a strait of 2 miles in width, and covers about the same area as Devil lake. Lake of the Woods, and Rainy lake, (the former a larger sheet of water, perhaps 100 miles in circuit,) are both on the north-east boundary of the Territory. Lake Pepin, a beautiful sheet of water, is a mere expansion of the Mississippi in the south-east of this Territory. The rivers and large streams of Minnesota are almost as numerous as its lakes. The far-famed Mississippi takes its humble origin from Itasca lake, from whose pellucid waters it issues a rivulet of but a few feet in width, and first meandering in a north east di- rection through a number of small lakes, to receive their tribute, it turns to the south, and pursues its lordly way to its far distant exit in the Gulf of Mexico, laving in its course the shores of 9 States and 1 Territory. About 800 miles of its length are included within Minnesota, of which 600 are navigable for steamboats; 200 below the Falls of St. Anthony, and 400 above; with two interruptions, however, at Sauk rapids and Little falls. The Rum and St. Croix, tributaries of the Mississippi, drain the south-east portion of the Territory, and the Red river the north- ern, passing off into Hudson's bay. It is the outlet of Traverse, Ottertail, Red, and several smaller lakes. It has a course of about 500 miles within Minnesota, though it does not flow directly north more than 200 miles in that distance. The Lake Superior slope is principally drained by the St. Louis and its branches, and by the outlets of that series of small lakes that form the north-east boundary of Minnesota. The great TERRITORY OF MINNESOTA. 525 valley formed by the slopes of Coteau des Prairies and the Coteau du Bois, is drained by the St. Peter's or Minnesota and its tributaries. This river runs first in a south-east, and then in a north-east course, with a total length of from 400 to 500 miles, and is navigable for steamers. Its principal branch is the Blue Earth or Mankato river. The St. Peter's, with the Crow Wing and Crow rivers, are the principal tributaries of the Mississippi from the west. The Riviere a- Jacques (ree v ve-air' ah zhak) and the Sioux are the principal affluents of the Missouri from this Territory. They both have an almost south course, the former being about 600, and the latter 350 miles long. Nearly the whole western boundary is washed by the Missouri, which opens the western part of the Territory to the commerce of the great Mississippi valley. The rivers of Min- nesota abound in small falls and rapids, which, while they interrupt navigation, furnish extensive water-power. The St. Croix is navigable to Stillwater for large boats, and for small ones to the falls ; the Minnesota to Traverse des Sioux, and at high water 100 miles further; the St. Louis '20 miles for large vessels, and the Red river in nearly all parts for either Durham boats or steamboats. The Blue Earth, Rum, Elk, and others are navigable from 50 to 100 miles for steamboats of light draught and flat boats. Objects of Interest to Tourists. — If we except cataracts of the first magnitude and high mountains, Minnesota presents as great a variety of natural objects of interest as any portion of our widely-ex- tended domain. The traveler enters her Territory, ascending the Mis- sissippi, amid beautiful islands, (one of which, Mountain island, is 428 feet high,) and between cliffs of sandstone and magnesian limestone rising to an elevation of from 300 to 500 feet. Soon he passes into that beautiful expansion of the river named Lake Pepin, on the east bank of which he has Maiden's rock, 400 feet high ; and near the northern ex- tremity of the lake, La Grange mountain, a headland about 330 feet above the lake, 180 of which, at the base, is sandstone, capped with magnesian limestone. As he proceeds, continuing his ascending voyage, the traveler arrives at the famed St. Anthony's falls, less celebrated on account of their perpendicular pitch (only 16 £ feet) than for their ac- complishments of wild scenery and their geological interest. The falls are divided by an island, as at Niagara, the greater portion of the water passing on the western side, which is 310 yards wide. The entire descent, including the rapids, is 58 feet in S*Q rods. St. Anthony's falls will no doubt one day become a Western Lowell, indeed its capa- bilities as a manufacturing site far transcend those of the town named, when the wants of the country shall call them into requisition. Foun- tain cave, 2 or 3 miles above St. Paul, is an excavation in the white sandstone, which opens by an arched entrance 25 feet wide and 20 high, into a chamber 150 feet long and 20 wide, along the center of which glides a rivulet, which may be heard from its inner and hidden recesses dashing down in small cascades. The passage becomes very narrow as you proceed up the channel, occasionally opening into small chambers. Mr. Seymour advanced nearly 1,000 feet within the cave without reach- ing its termination. Brown's falls are in a narrow stream, the outlet 526 TERRITORY OF MINNESOTA. of several small lakes on the west side of the Mississippi. They have a perpendicular descent of 50 feet; and including smaller falls and rapids, 100 feet. Pilot knob, near the confluence of the Mississippi and St. Peter's, is an elevation of 262 feet, which commands a fine view of the surrounding country and the two rivers near whose junction it stands. The St. Croix falls or rapids, about 30 miles from its mouth, have a descent of nearly 50 feet in 300 yards; but the most interesting portion of the scene consists in the perpendicular walls of trap-rock through which the river has forced its way, about half a mile below the rapids, and through which it rushes with great velocity, forming eddies and whirlpools. At this place, 40 or 50 feet above the river, port-holes, 20 to 25 feet in diameter, and 15 to 20 deep, have been worn by the action of the water. This pass is called the Dalles of the St. Croix. The Sioux river "breaks through a remarkable formation of massive quartz, which crosses it perpendicularly," at the Great bend, in about 43° 30' north latitude, and forms a series of falls and rapids, one of which is 21 feet, another 18, and a third 10 feet in perpendicular pitch. The entire descent in 400 yards is 100 feet. Minnesota shares with Wis- consin in the falls and rapids of the St. Louis river, another picturesque and romantic display of nature's works — for a description of which, see Wisconsin. The rivers of Minnesota are filled with picturesque rapids and small falls, and often bordered with perpendicular biuffs of lime and sandstone, or gently sloping hills that gracefully recede from the water. This region is the paradise of a hunter : its prairies and forests are the home of many wild animals, and in its rivers and lakes swim great varieties of fish. Climate. — The climate of this Territory is severe, especially in the northern part. At the Pembina settlement, under the 49th parallel of latitude, the cold is frequently so great as to freeze quicksilver. Accord- ing to observations kept by the officers stationed there in January, 1847, the mean temperature of the month, from three observations a day, at 9 A. M., and 3 and 9 p. m., was 12^-° below zero ; and the greatest cold 48° below the same point. The average of 66 days' observations was 22| ° below zero ; and the highest point reached in the month of January, 30° above zero. The hottest day in the month of July was 96°, showing a range of 144° between the greatest cold and greatest heat. From the 17th of June to the 17th rf July, 1848, the mean temperature was 69°. Even as late as in the Liter weeks of March, and as early as in November, the thermometer often falls below zero. Observations made at St. Paul's, in latitude 44° 56' north, in December, January, and February, of the winter of 1850-51, gave the following result: Clear days, 22 ; variable, 45; cloudy, 23 ; rain, 5; snow, 24; and hail, 1. Greatest hight of the mercury, 47° ; lowest point, 32° 5' below zero ; average of the winter, 15° 23'. 31 days the mercury was at or above freezing, and 37 days below zero. The coldest day, (January 30,) it was 20° below ; and the mildest, (February 25,) 36° 6' above zero. Winds, north-north-west, 50 days ; south-east to east- north-east, 20 days ; variable, 20 days. The amount of rainy days this winter is stated as unusually large, from which the dryness of the atmosphere may be inferred. The earliest closing of TERRITORY OF MINNESOTA. 527 the navigation by ice, between 1844 and 1850, was November 8 ; the latest December 8. The earliest opening in the same period, was March 31 : the latest, April, 19. The climate of Minnesota, in some parts, is too severe for Indian corn, but the dryness and steadiness of the cold favor wheat and other winter grains. Soil and Productions. — The soil of Minnesota varies greatly. In the valleys of the rivers it is mostly excellent, especially in those of the St. Peter's, and of the Mississippi and its tributaries in the south-east part of the Territory. Above the Falls of St. Anthony, with the exception of the river alluvions and some prairie land, the country is generally covered with drift, interspersed with marshes, too wet for cultivation ; but the elevated portion is often much of it of tolerable fertility, though inferior to the calcareous lands of the river-bottoms, and not unfrequently covered with dwarf timber. Professor Owen remarks that "the general agricul- tural character of the lied river country is excellent. The principal drawbacks are occasional protracted droughts during the midsummer months, and during the spring freshets, which from time to time overflow large tracts of low prairie, especially near the Great bend." According to Governor Ramsay, wherever the test has been made, Minnesota pro- duces corn, wheat, oats, and potatoes equal in quality to that produced in any State in the Union, and in quantity such as to astonish those who have been familiar even with the rich bottom-lands of Indiana and Illinois. The nutritious wild rice, strawberries, currants, plums, cranberries, grapes, and crab-apples are indigenous. According to the census of 1850, there were 5,035 acres of land only under cultivation, but as the population is now (1853) probably more than treble what it was at that period, this will be a very unfair representation of the present agricultural condition of the Territory. In the year of the national census, there were produced 1,401 bushels of wheat; 125 of rye ; 16,725 of Indian corn ; 30,582 of oats ; 10,002 of peas and beans ; 21,145 of Irish potatoes ; 200 of sweet potatoes; 1,216 of barley; 515 of buckwheat; 2,019 tons of hay; 85 pounds of wool ; 5,100 of butter ; 2,950 of maple-sugar ; 80 of beeswax and honey. Value of live stock, $92,859; of market produce, $150 ; and of slaughtered animals, $2,840. Forest Trees. — Parts of Minnesota are densely timbered with pine forests, and the ridges of the drift districts with small pine, birch, aspen, maple, ash, elm, hemlock, firs, poplar, and basswood. In the swamps between the ridges, the tamarack, cedar, and cypress are found ; while the river bottoms furnish a good growth of oak, aspen, soft maple, bass- wood, ash, birch, white walnut, linden, and elm. Much of this timber on the poorer ridges, and in some of the marshes, is of rather a dwarf character. On the Rum, St. Croix, and Pine rivets, there are extensive forests of pine. According to Professor Owen, "a belt of forest crosses Minnesota in latitude 44° 30', which is remarkable for its unusual body of timber, in a country otherwise but scantily timbered." Bond says, " there are 80 miles of solid pine timber on the shores of the Mississippi, below Pokegamin falls." Taken as a whole, Minnesota can scarcely be called a well-wooded country. But here, as in other parts of the west, 528 TERRITORY OF MINNESOTA. when the prairies are protected from fire, a growth of young timber aoon springs up. Animals. — Minnesota has always been a favorite hunting ground of the Indians, and vast herds of buffalo, elk, deer, antelope, and other game, still roam over the plains west of the Coteau des Prairies and the Red river. Deer, black bear, antelope, wolverine, otter, muskrat, mink, mar- tin, wolf, and racoon abound, and the mooze and grizzly bear are occa- sionally met with. The prairies are frequented by grouse, pheasants, and partridges, and the streams by wild ducks and geese. The other birds are hawks, buzzards, harriers, owls, quails, plovers, larks, and a great variety of small birds. Among the water fowl are the pelican, tern, hooded sheldrake, bustard, broadbill, ruffle-headed duck, wood duck, teal, wild goose, and loon. Both the golden and bald eagles are occa- sionally met with. The rivers and lakes abound in fine fish, among which are the bass, cap, sunfish, pickerel, pike, catfish, whitefish, sucker, maske- longe, and trout. Manufactures. — There are great capabilities in the innumerable rivers of Minnesota, with their falls and rapids, for manufacturing establish- ments. At present the conversion of her pine forests into boards, scantl- ing, etc., constitutes the principal manufacture of this new and flourishing Territory. Internal Improvements. — These, of course, are as yet confined to opening common and military roads. In the settlement of a new country,, the emigrants naturally first locate on the great rivers, and a considerable time elapses before they need any other highway than these rivers the ^i- selves and short roads leading to them. The best lands of Minnesota are on her two great navigable rivers, the Mississippi and St. Peter's ; and the first acts of internal improvement needed by this Territory will be the removal of some obstructions in these streams. It is among the proba- bilities that the great Pacific Eailway may traverse this region, as engineers are now examiniug the feasibilities of a northern route. Commerce. — Minnesota has the advantage of two outlets for her pro- ducts ; one by way of the Mississippi, to every portion of the Mississippi valley ; and the other by way of Lake Superior, with the Lake States and with the east. The great export of this Territory is her lumber, and in the winter of 1850-'51, 21,000,000 feet were cut on the St. Croix and its tributaries. The same region would send, it was calculated, 60,000,000 feet to market in 1853; and this portion of the trade of Minnesota must increase in a rapid ratio with the settlement of its own waste lands, and of the lower country. In 1841, according to Mr. Prescott's register at Fort Smiling, 40 steamboats arrived fruni below, 48 in 1845, 24 in 1846, 47 in 1847, 63 in 1848, 85 in 1849, and 102 in 1850. The Mississipi rivei was open for navigation, or the first boat arrived, in the years 184l,-'45, -'46, -'48, -'49, and 1850, respectively, on the 20th of March, 6th of April, 31st of March, 7th of April, 9th of April, and 19th of April ; and the river closed, in the same years, on the 23d and 26th of November, and on the 4th, 7th, and 1st of December. The foreign exports for 1851-52 amounted to $1,207. Education. — Minnesota has a public system of free schools, which is TERRITORY OF MINNESOTA. 529 under the general direction of a superintendent of common schools and the local supervision of trustees. Every township containing not less than five families is considered a school district. These school trustees are elected every year, and a majority of the voters may levy a tax not to exceed §600 a year. A county tax is also levied for school purposes, of one-fourth of one per cent., on the ad valorem amount of the assessment roll, made by the county assessors : also 15 per cent, of all moneys raised by licenses of spirituous liquors, and on all fines for criminal acts. "An act to incorporate the University of Minnesota," was passed February 25, 1851. This institution is to consist of five departments, namely, of science, literature, and art; of laws; of medicine; of agriculture, and of elementary instruction. Twelve regents appointed by the Legislature manage its affairs. It is located at St. Anthony. The proceeds of all lands granted by the United States go to form a perpetual fund for the support of the University. Congress has granted two townships of land for this purpose already. Public Institutions. — A Penitentiary, located at Stillwater, is the only other institution, besides the University, of a strictly Territorial cha- racter. A Historical Society was established at St. Paul in 1849, which annually publishes its transactions. Population. — The commencement of the settlement of this Territory is quite recent; and, at the United States census of 1850, there were only 6,077 inhabitants; of whom 3,695 were white males, 2,343 white females, 21 free colored males, and 18 free colored females. Governor Eamsay estimated the Indian population in 1852, at 25,000. The number of fa- milies in 1850 was 1,016, occupying 1,002 dwellings. Of the population, except Indians, 1,586 were born in the Territory, 2,511 in the different States of the Union, 84 in England, 271 in Ireland, 41 in Scotland and Wales, 1,417 in British America, 141 in Germany, 29 in France, 65 in other countries, and 22 whose places of birth were unknown ; giving about 33 per cent, of foreign birth. In the year ending June 1, 1850, there occurred 30 deaths, or about 5 in every one thousand persons. In the census returns, no deaf, dumb, or blind, and but 1 idiot and 1 insane was reported. Population to the square mile only .04. Of the entire popu- lation, 340 were engaged in agriculture, 599 were laborers, 126 lumber- men, 207 hunters, 396 mechanics and manufacturers, 208 merchants and traders, 9 engaged in internal commerce, and 77 in the learned profess- ions. So rapid and constant has been the influx of emigration into this Territory since the taking of the national census, that the population in 1854 was estimated at 35,000 civilized inhabitants. Counties. — Minnesota is divided into 20 counties, viz. : Benton, Blue Earth, Cass, Chicago, Dakotah, Fillmore, Goodhue, Hennepin, Itasca, Kapasia, Le Sueur, Nicollet, Pierce, Pembina, Eamsay, Rice, Scott, Sibley, Wabashaw, and Washington. Mankatah and Wahnahta have been oblite- rated since 1850. Capital, St. Paul. The principal towns are St. Paul, population in 1854 estimated at 5,000; and St. Anthony's, 2,000. Still- water, St. Croix, and Wabasha are the other important places. Government. — The Governor is appointed by the President of the United States for four years ; salary, §2,500. The Legislature consists 34 530 TERRITORY OF MINNESOTA. of a Council, composed of 9 members, and a House of Eepresentatives. of 18 members, both elected by the people, the former for 2 years, and the latter annually. The number of councilmen maybe increased to 15, and of the representatives to 39. The judiciary consists of a supreme, district, and probate courts. The Territory sends a delegate to the na- tional House of Representatives, who may speak, but not vote. History. — Minnesota is said to have been first visited by white men in the person of two free traders in the year 1654; who, on their return to Montreal, two years afterward, gave such glowing descriptions of the country as to induce, not only traders and trappers, but Jesuit missionaries to visit the country. To the latter are we indebted for the first printed records of Minnesota. The present Territory of Minnesota formed part of the original Louisiana Territory, as purchased from France in 1803. The eastern portion formed a part of the French possessions, which were surrendered to the English at the peace of 1763, and subsequently by the latter to the government of the United States, after the close of the Revolution. During the administration of Mr. Jefferson, (in 1805,) an exploring expedition, under General Pike, traversed the country. The first fortification of the United States within the present limits of Min- nesota was located at Fort Snelling, which has been occupied by an Ame- rican garrison ever since 1819. With the exception of the British set- tlement at Pembina, which was not then known to be within the limits of the United Staets, no settlement were made in this Territory till about 1845. In 1849 it was organized into a territorial government. It has successively formed parts of the Missouri, North- West, Wisconsin, and Iowa Territories. St. Paul, a flourishing city, port of entry, capitol of Minnesota Ter- ritory, and seat of justice of Ramsey county, on the left bank of the Missis- sippi, 2,070 miles from its mouth, and 9 miles by land below the Falls of St. Anthony. Latitude, 44° ?3' 46" north, longitude, 93° 5' west. It is situated on a bluff 70 or 80 feet high, and presents a striking view from the river. The hills or bluffs which partly encircle the town abound in excellent springs. It is at the head of steamboat navigation, and is a place of active business. It was first settled about 1840, and in 1849, it contained 1 church, 2 printing offices, 3 hotels, 10 stores, 4 warehouses, 2 drug stores, and 1 school-house. A fine state-house 150 feet long and 53 feet wide, surmounted by a handsome dome, has recently been erected. St. Paul now contains 5 or 6 churches, 4 hotels, 2 or 3 printing offices, 1 book store, 2 drug stores, numerous other stores, and several saw mills. The value of the business of the town increased from 8131,000 in 1849, to $41,579,500 in 1854. Of the latter amount, $3,556,000 shows the extent of its banking business, $489,000 the forwarding and commission business, $251,000 the dry goods, and 244,500 the grocery business. The Baldwin school of this place is a well-conducted and flourishing institution. Population in 1850, 1,294; in 1854, estimated at 6,000. REGION OF LAKE SUPERIOR. 531 REGION OF LAKE SUPERIOR. Lake Superior presents an area of 32,000 square miles. It lies between the 46 and 49 parallels of latitude, and the 84° and 92° of longitude west of Greenwich. Its greatest length is 400 miles. Its greatest breadth from Grand Island to Neepigon bay is 160 miles. The surface of the lake is 600 feet above the level of the Atlantic Ocean; but its bottom is 300 feet below ; for it has a mean depth of 900 feet. The French, who were the first explorers of Lake Superior, fancifully described it as a watery bow, of which the southern shore was the string, and Keweenaw point, the arrow. The lake discharges through the St. Mary's strait into Lake Huron, which occupies a lower level by 44 feet and 8 inches. The strait is about 70 miles long, but it is divided into two sections by the Falls of St. Mary, 15 miles below Lake Supe- rior. The lower section is navigable for small steamboats, and vessels drawing 6 feet of water. This section contains 4 large islands and several smaller ones ; but the principal channel — the westerly one — is nearly a mile in width. The Falls of St. Mary, or more properly, rapids, are three-fourths of a mile in length, having a fall in that distance, of 21 feet and 10 inches. The two sections are now united by a steamboat and ship canal. Following along the indentations of the southern shore, around the westerly extremity of the lake, to Arrow river, opposite to Isle Royale, will give the extreme length of the American coast which can not be much less than 1,000 miles; a part of which is in Michigan, part in Wisconsin, and part in Minnesota. Lake Superior is walled in by rocks, which, in some places, are piled in mountain masses upon the very shore. The waves dash against precipices and beetling crags, that threaten the unfortunate mariner, in a storm upon a lee shore, with almost inevitable destruction. There is tolerable anchorage at the head of St. Mary's strait Keweenaw point has 2 sheltering bays, viz: Copper harbor and Eagle harbor. Protection may be found from the surf, under the lee of the Apostle islands, at La Pointe. St. Louis river, at the head of the lake, is a good harbor; but the best harbors are afforded by the indentations of the shores of Isle Royale. " Owing to the lofty crags which surround Lake Superior, the winds, sweeping over the lake, impigne upon its surface so abruptly as to raise a peculiarly deep and combing sea, which is extremely dangerous to boats and small craft. It is not safe, on this account, to venture far out into the lake in bateaux ; and, hence, voyages generally hug the shore, in order to be able to take land, in case of sudden storms. During the 532 REGION OF LAKE SUPERIOR. months of June, July, and August, the navigation of the lake is ordi- /narily safe ; but after the middle of September, great caution is required in navigating its waters ; and boatmen of experience never venture far from land, or atttempt long traverses across the bays. The boats are always drawn far up on the land at every camping-place for the night lest they should be staved to pieces by the surf, whch is liable, at any moment, to rise and beat with great fury upon the beeches." One of the most curious phenomena of the lake is the sudden and in explicable heaving and swelling of its waters, when the air is still. Mr. Schoolcraft, who passed over Lake Superior, in 1820, thus describes it: "Although it was calm, and had been so all day, save a light breeze for a couple of hours after leaving the Ontonagon, the waters near the shore were in a perfect rage, heaving and lashing upon the rocks in a manner which rendered it difficult to land. At the same time, scarce a breath of air was stirring, and the atmosphere was beautifully serene." Now this agitation was observed at the close of the day's voyage, which had carried the party 50 miles from the Ontonagon, and the slight breeze had been blowing only a little while in the morning. Another noticeable feature of Lake Superior is the extraordinary purity and transparency of the water, through which every pebble may be distinctly seen at the depth of 25 feet. When out in a canoe upon its surface, the frail vessel does not seem to be afloat upon a watery ele- ment, but suspended in mid-air, with etherial depths around and below. Those who have visited Lake George — the world-famous Horicon, whose waters were at one time carried to Home to fill the Papal fonts — and Lake Superior, affirm that the latter far surpasses the former in clearness and transparency. Indeed, they assure us that, often, while looking down from the hight at which the boat seems suspended, the head will grow dizzy, and a feeling of faintness be superinduced. The water of Lake Superior, like that of Lakes Michigan, Huron, and Eric, is " hard " and unfit for laundry purposes, without a previous breaking by soda or other means. This can be accounted for only on the supposition that it rolls over calcareous beds in some part of its course, but what part has not yet been ascertained; for the water of all the streams and springs that flow into the lake, so far as they have been examined, is found to be " soft," and so entirely free from earthy or other foreign matter^ "that the daguerreotypist finds it better for his purposes than the best distilled water of the chemist." Not less peculiar is the atmosphere around and over the lake, which plays strange and fantastic tricks in the face of high heaven, seeming to possess a life and spirit strictly in unison with the wonderful expanse of waters that lies spread out below. The mirage of Lake Superior fills the spectator with astonishment. For weeks during the summer,_the trav- eler along the shores of this inland sea, may be gratified by & view of the most curious phantasmagoria — images of mountains and islands being vividly represented in all their outlines, with their tufts of evergreen trees, precipices, and rocky pinnacles, all inverted in the air, and hanging high over their terrestrial originals, and then again repeated upright in REGION OF LAKE SUPERIOR. 533 another picture directly above the inverted one. Rock harbor, in Isle Royale, is the most noted locality for observing these phantasmagoria. But the mirage is not confined to any particular part of the lake. Fre- quently, the voyager, long before he has hove in sight of land, will see the coast he is approaching pictured upon the skies along the horizon; and after the real shore has appeared, three views of it will be presented — two, right side up, according to the order of creation; and the middle one bottom upward. Vessels will appear to be sailing in the air, points of land bent up at right-angles, and the sun at setting twisted into astonishing shapes. The skies and the waters seem to harmonize completely together. While the sky daguerreotypes all below, the water catches the tints of all that is above, and the ethereal dome is caverned in the deep. Mr. Jackson, United States geologist, says of the lake: "The color of the water, effected by the hues of the sky, and holding no sediment to dim its transparency, presents deeper tints than are seen on the lower lakes — deep tints of blue, green, and red prevailing, according to the color of the sky and clouds. I have seen at sunset the surface of the lake off Isle Royale of a deep-claret color — a tint much richer than ever is reflected from the waters of other lakes, or in any other country I have visited." Lake Superior, unlike Lake Huron, has but few islands. The largest of these are Grand island, situated near the southern shore, 132 miles west of St. Mary's, and represented to have a deep and land- locked harbor; Middle island, toward the westerly extremity of the lake, near the group of Apostle islands; and Isle Royale, near the northern shore, and within the jurisdiction of the United States. Isle Royale is about 40 miles long, and averages 6 miles in width. It is a most interesting island, singularly formed, and sending out long spits of rocks into the lake at its north-eastern extremity; while at its south-western end, it shelves off far into the lake, presenting slightly-inclined beds of red sandstone; the tabular sheets of which, for miles from the coast, are barely covered with water, and offer dan- gerous shoals and reefs, on which vessels, and even boats, would be quickly stranded, if they endeavored to pass near the shore." But igneous rocks constitute the rocky basis of more than four-fifths of the island, and in those portions of it where these exist, the shores are pre- cipitous. " Bold cliffs of columnar trap and castellated rocks, with mural escarpments, sternly present themselves to the surf, and defy the storms. The waters of the lake are deep close to their very shores, and the largest ship might in many places lie close to the rocks, as at an artificial pier." Isle Royale contains a great number of beautiful lakes, the largest of which is Siskawit lake, on the southern side, near Siskawit bay. It is also surrounded by innumerable small islands, which cluster close to ita shores, as if for protection from the waves. Mr. Jackson, before referred to, gives the following interesting description of the general appearance of Isle Royale: "Added to the fantastic irregularities of the coast and 534 REGION OF LAKE SUPERIOR. its castle-like islands — the abrupt elevation of the hills inland, rising liko almost perpendicular walls from the shores of the numerous beautiful lakes which are scattered through the interior of the island, and cor- responding with Hues of the mountain upheaval — we observe occasionally- rude crags detached from the main body of the mountains, and, in one place, 2 lofty twin towers, standing on a hillside, and rising perpendic- ularly, like huge chimneys, to the elevation of 70 feet, while they are surrounded by the deep-green foliage of the primeval forest." In the secluded valleys between the hills of the Isle Royale there are either little lakes, or swamps filled with a dense growth of white cedars. Upon the higher lands, the timber is a mixture of maple, birch, spruce, fir, and pine trees, which are of thrifty growth, and will afford both timber and fuel. The soil of more than nine-tenths of the island is formed by the decomposition of the trap rocks; and such a soil is well-known to be warm and fertile. In the lowlands, the springs from the hills will keep the soil cold and wet; but if properly drained, there is no doubt those lands might be cultivated, and would produce good crops. Indeed, this is said to have been proved in the vicinity of Rock harbor, where the lowland soil, which was originally covered with swamp-muck, is now drained and made productive. In the deep shadow of the crags, and in some of the thick swamps of cedar, it is said that perennial ice has been found upon the island; and on the immediate rocky border of the lake shore, the influence of the wintry winds from the lake is strikingly exemplified in the stunted growth of the fir and spruce trees, that get root in the crevices of the rocks. Mr. Jackson says : " In numerous instances, we were able to witness the joint effects of cold air and a limited supply of soil, in retarding the growth of trees, and giving the wood an extremely fine texture. Small trees have sprung up, having all the appearance of age which the dwarfed trees raised by the ingenious Chinese gardener are known to present. Those little trees, from four inches to afoot high, are covered with mosses like old trees, and the tiny stem presents in its bark and wood, the different layers, representing many seasons. In cutting through these little trees, they were found, in some instances, to possess 40 different annual rings; and the wood was nearly as hard as boxwood, and as fine!" Rock harbor, on the southern side of the north-easterly end of Isle Royale, is the largest and most beautiful haven on Lake Superior. The bay extends about 4 miles up into the island. The water is deep enough for any vessels, and the harbor is perfectly sheltered from every wind. Around its entrance are numerous islands, that stand like so many rocky castles to break the heavy surges of the lake. "In some re- rspects it resembles the Ray of Naples, with Procida, Capri, and Ischia at its entrance: but no modern volcano completes the back-ground of the picture, though there must at one time have been greater eruptions there than ever took place in Italy." Lake Superior is fed by about eighty streams, which are represented to be not navigable, except for canoes, owing to the falls and rapids with REGION OP LAKE SUPERIOR. 535 which they abound. The principal ones that flow through American territory are the St. Louis, Montreal, Presque isle, Arrow, Little Mon- treal, Ontonagon, Eagle, Sturgeon, Huron, Dead, Carp, Chocolate, La Prairie, Two hearted, and Tequamenon rivers. The largest of these are the Ontonagon and Sturgeon rivers, which, by the removal of some ob- structions at their mouths, and the construction of piers to prevent the formation of bars, might be converted into excellent and spacious harbors, in the immediate vicinity of some of the most valuable mines where the want of safe anchorage is now severely felt ; as at Eagle har- bor, for instance, where the propellers have to cast anchor over a hun- dreded yards out, and the copper intended for shipment has to be first placed on board of a scow, on which passengers also take a position, and then floated out to the propellers. The copper is raised on board by means of a crane, which is stationary upon the side of the vessel. The Twin river, or Two-hearted river, as it is called by the traders, consists in the union of two separate streams, near the point of its outlet. It empties into the lake 72 miles westward of St. Mary's. A short distance beyond Grand island, at the mouth of a small stream. known as Laughing-fish river, a curious flux and reflux of the water is maintained, similar to the tides of the ocean. At the mouth of Chocolate river, there is a large bay setting up deep into the shore, which requires a day's canoe-travel to circumnavigate it. Just beyond that, the traveler will first strike the old crystaline rocks, or primitive formation. From hence, for 2 days' travel to Huron bay, the shores presents a conti- nuous series of rough, conical peaks, which are noted for immense bodies of iron ore, chiefly in the condition of iron glance, from which the exten- sive iron works of Carp river, seated at the foot of these mountains, are yielding such fine blooms. Continuing on westward across Keweenaw bay, the canoe voyager will enter Portage lake, embosomed near the base of Keweenaw point, and, with a short portage, will reach the lake west of the point without the toil and distance of circumnavigating it. And, in doing so, he will observe that the geology of the country has become entirely changed. He will have passed into the midst of a region of trap-dike — the great copper-bearing rock of Lake Superior. Passing onward along the lake, the dim-blue outlines of the Porcupine mountains will rise to view on the edge of the horizon, directly ahead. These mountains, on a clear day, may be seen from a distance of sixty miles. Soon the voyager will be seen traversing the entrance of Little Salmon, Graverod, Misery, and Firesteel rivers, to the mouth of Ontonagon river, where a large body of water enters the lake ; but the mouth of the river is very much obstructed by a sand-bar. There, likewise, may be observed another of those curious refluxes, where the water, impeded and damned up by gales, reacts with unusual force. - — ~~~^ - ' • _ H ' ~ wmi - ~-~ --, — , ? _3i- " ~~ -' " - -"- D _^ - ~ - ■"« ( - ^; ; . ■ »£ iii - -.1 - — * _. ~3 _ - i _-:_ -"" -" _- -, :_: i ■a a _ -- - ■i -- .-" ■ ..- -.. -- 1 r -r 1 ■ mm. aus jb. .a. --- • - '" . ■M * - 538 REGION OF LAKE SUPERIOR. hights of land between Portage lake and Montreal river vary from 600 feet to 1,300 feet in hight. The Superior country is celebrated alike for its iron, its copper, and its •silver. It can never become much of an agricultural country; but its mineral resources are very great, beyond the power of calculation. The country has been explored just sufficiently to enable us to form a mere rough guess as to its capability of producing the most valuable metals in constant use by man. The iron occupies a region distinct by itself. The copper and silver are fouud blended together. The iron region of Lake Superior, no less than the copper region, is one of the wonders of the world. It commences along the coast of the lake, with the metamorphic rocks, extending from the Chocolate river to the Dead river, a distance of 10 miles, following the shore, and sweeps away southerly and westerly across the branches of the Menominee river — the Machi-gamig and the Brule — and the Sturgeon river, and the Esconaba river, that empties into Little Bay de Noquet, near the head of Green bay. Now, it must be borne in mind, that the Chocolate river comes into Lake Superior from the south-east, and the Dead river from the west. On the meridian intersecting the mouth of the Dead river, the iron-bearing rocks extend directly south more than 11 miles; and on that of the Jackson forge, 9 miles west of the mouth of the river, the iron region is some 14 miles in width. Its western limit has not been determined ; but it must be far within the borders of Wiscon- sin, having been traced in that direction nearly 100 miles. The nor- thern limit is nearly on a line drawn due west from the mouth of the Dead river. The southerly limit also, from the Chocolate river, runs pretty much straight west, till beyond the Esconaba, where it turns off south along the Machi-gamig, and crosses the Menominee. There the width of the iron region is known to be more than 50 miles. This valuable mineral tract has been but partially explored, and no sufficient data have been furnished to estimate exactly its area. There is the most abundant authority, however, for saying, that the iron of the Superior country is both rich and inexhaustible. The fol- lowing statements, condensed from the reports made by the persons en- gaged in the United States geological survey of the mineral lands, will convey some idea of the extent and quality of the ore. The first bed of magnetic ore is situated near the Menominee river, and in the direction of Fort river, a branch of the Esconaba, at the cor- ner of townships 41 and 42, north, and between ranges 29 and 30, west. It was found in a low ridge, some 3 chains in width, which ap- peared to be one mass of iron ore, stratified and jointed. The ore has generally a granular structure; color, iron-black, passing into steel-gray; luster, when fresh broken, metallic, but soon oxydizes, upon exposure to the atmosphere. The second bed of ore is situated on the east boundary of township 46 north, range 30 west, sections 1 and 6, along the south-western shore of a small lake, in the Machi-gamig river. The extent of this bed of ore is unknown; but it borders that side of the lake, from 20 to 50 feet in hight. The ore is likewise stratified and jointed, so that it may REGION OF LAKE SUPERIOR. 539 be quarried with ease. In color and luster it resembles the first — ■ fresh fractures appearing like fine-grained cast-iron. Now, this bed of ore extends along through a range of hills on the north-easterly side also of that lake, to an unknown extent, and in a mass so great as to stagger belief. Let the surveyor speak for himself: "The river here forms a lake-like expansion, and is bounded on the north-east by a range of hills, which rise abruptly'to the hight of 200 feet above the water. We explored this ridge, and found that it was composed, for the most part, of nearly pure specular oxyd of iron. It shoots up in a perpendic- ular cliff, 113 feet in hight, so pure, that it is difficult to determine its mineral associations. We passed along the base of this cliff for more than a quarter of a mile, seeking for a gap, through which we might pass and gain the summit. At length, and by clambering from one point to another, we succeeded. Passing along the brow of the cliff, 40 feet, the mass was comparatively pure; then succeeded a bed of quartz, composed of grounded grains, with small specks of iron dissemi- nated, and large, rounded masses of the same material inclosed, consti- tuting a conglomerate. This bed was 15 feet in thickness, and was succeeded again by specular iron, exposed in places to the width of 100 feet; but the soil and trees prevented our determining its entire width. This one cliff contains iron sufficient to supply the world for ages ; yet we saw neither its length nor its width, but only an outline of the mass." It may be proper here to suggest, that the best possible use that can be made of the capital afloat in the importing trade, would be to make one more investment in English railroad iron, to lay a track from Green bay up the Esconaba river, which reaches within a mile of this mountain of iron, and make it accessible. Whoever will do this, will do more to promote the wealth of the country than ever has yet been done by open- int of the Madison and Indianapolis railroad. 350 feet long, by 56 wide. In 1833, there tt churches, and 3 others in course of construction. Indianapolis is said to contain a greater number of ehure'a . : ci tta popu- lation than any other city in the Union. A State lunatic hospital was established here in 1848, and in 1853 had 163 patients. Indianapo- lis is also the seat of the Indiana Central Medical . ..-. _e. : anded in 1849. In 1852 it had 8 p: E students. Great ■ttrntioa is paid to education, and the public schools are in a very flourishing condition. There are 2 banks, and seven or eight newspapers are published here, one of which is a daily. T_e .:: . ntaiae several iroai founderies. flouring mills, and manufactor: . a : ft ._.-... - t toer, window - - -...a", tber articlrs. Iniiaaar .".is is Ike benaiaaa afaevoi railroads, viz.. the Madison and Indianapolis, opened in 1847. tie Lafayette, the Terre Haute and Indianapolis, the Indiana Central, tike Indianapolis and Beliefontaine, the Peru and Indianapolis, and the Lawrenceburg and Upper M - pi railroad. Population in 184 2.692: in 18S 3,090; in 1853. about 12.i Maiison is a flourishing city, river-port, and seat of justice of Jefferson county, on the Ohio river, 90 miles below Cincinnati, 44 n above Louisville, and S6 miles south-south-east of Indianapolis, in latitude ^ : 4o' north, longitude 85 c 21' west. It is advantageously situ_ for trade, and is equal, if not superior to any town of the State in population and importance. Steamboats ncak- regular passages between this p.rt and other towns of the Mississ pp.i The navigation is usually open all winter in ordinary aeaaoaa Several steamboats are owned here. Madison is the south terminus of the Madison and Indianapolis railroad, which was completed in 1848. and doing a large 582 INDIANA. business in conveying freight and passengers. The city is beautifully situated in a valley nearly 3 miles in length, which is enclosed on the north by steep and rugged hills about 400 feet high. The site is elevated 30 or 40 feet above the highest floods. Madison is well built, con- taining a larger proportion of brick houses than is usual in the towns of Indiana. It has a court-house, a jail, 2 market-houses, 1 bank, 2 large public schools, and about 15 churches. There are 4 or 5 news- papers published here. Several of the streets are paved, and lighted with gas. A considerable amount of capital and labor is employed in manufactures of cotton, wool, iron, machinery, and oil, and the estab- lishments for packing pork are very extensive. First settled in 1808. Population in 1840, 3,798; in 1850, including North Madison village, 8,681 ; in 1853, about 12,000. New Albany, capital of Floyd county, lies on the right bank of the Ohio river, 2 miles below the Falls, 3 miles below Louisville, and 136 miles below Cincinnati. Latitude 38° 18' north, longitude 85° 51' west. It is the southern terminus of the New Albany and Salem railroad, which extends to Michigan City, 287 miles, having recently been com- pleted. It is remarkable for its rapid growth and active trade; in fact, it may be considered the most commercial town in the State excepting Madison, which contains a nearly equal population. Steamboats arrive and depart daily to all points on the Ohio and Mississippi. The streets are wide and straight, and furnished with pleasant sidewalks. The town contains about 12 churches, a collegiate institute, a Presbyterian theo- logical seminary, 2 banks, and 2 printing offices. Two newspapers are published here. Steamboat building is carried on more extensively here than at any other place on the Ohio, scarcely excepting Cincinnati; there are also manufactories of iron, brass, bagging, etc. A plank road, 20 miles long, extends from New Albany to Corydon. Laid out in 1813. About 1,640 buildings have been erected in the city within the last year. Population in 1840, 4,226; in 1850, 8,181; in the beginning of 1854, about 14,000. Fort Wayne, a flourishing town, capital of Allen county, is situated at the confluence of the St. Joseph's and St. Mary's rivers, which form the Maumee, and on the "Wabash and Erie canal, 122 miles east-north- east of Lafayette, and 112 miles north-east of Indianapolis. Fort Wayne is a town of rapid growth, and is one of the most important places in the State. It is the western terminus of the Ohio and Indiana railroad which connects with the Ohio and Pennsylvania railroad at Crestline, and is to be extended westward to Chicago. When this road is finished, Fort Wayne will be connected with Philadelphia by a continuous line of railways more than 600 miles in length. Another railroad is in course of construction to Muncie. Several plank-roads lead from this place to different parts of the State and of Ohio. It has 8 churches, a bank, a Methodist female college, and 2 newspaper offices. The surrounding re- gion is highly productive, and a large portion of the land is under culti- vation. On the site of the town was the old " Twight-wee village," of the Miami tribe. Here Fort Wayne was erected in 1794, by order of General Wayne, and it continued to be a military post until 1819. The iowa. 583 Miamies were removed beyond the Mississippi in 1841. Population in 1853, estimated at 6,500. Lafayette, capital of Tippecanoe county, lies on the left bank of the Wabash river, and on the Wabash and Erie canal, 66 miles north-west of Indianapolis, and 123 miles south-east from Chicago, latitude 40° 25' north, longitude 86° 49' west. It is pleasantly situated on gradually rising ground, which affords a delightful view of the river and the neigh- boring hills. It is one of the largest towns on the canal above named, and is considered the fourth of the State in respect to population. The Wabash and Erie canal connects it with Lake Erie and the Ohio river. Railroads have recently been completed from Lafayette to Indianapolis, and to Crawfordsville. These advantages, together with the fertility of the surrounding country, render it a place of active trade, and the prin- cipal grain market in the State. It contains a court-house which cost $20,000, 4 banks, a county seminary, and about 10 churches, some of which are large and handsome buildings. It has also several paper- mills, iron founderies, and large establishments for packing pork. Three weekly and two daily newspapers are published here. The surrounding country consists of fertile prairies, interspersed with oak openings. Set- tled in 1825. Population in 1846, 1,700 ; in 1850, 6,129 ; in 1854, about 9,000. IOWA. The State of Iowa is bounded north by Minnesota Territory, east by the Mississippi, which separates it from the States of Wisconsin and Illi- nois, south by Missouri, and west by Indian Territory and Minnesota, from the former of which it is separated by the Missouri, and from the latter by the great Sioux river. It lies (with the exception of a small projection in the south-east, between the P/es Moines and the Mississippi rivers) between 40° 30' and 43° 30' north latitude, and between 90° and 97° west longitude, being about 300 miles in extreme length from east to west, and about 208 miles in breadth, including an area of 50,914 square miles, or 32,584,960 acres, of which only 824,682 were improved in 1850. According to a State census in 1852, 5,618,207 acres were oc- cupied. Face op the Country. — The surface of Iowa is generally composed of rolling prairies, having nothing within its limits which approaches a mountain in elevation. The highest ground in the State is a plateau in 584 iowa. the north-west, called "Couteau des Prairies," which enters the state from Minnesota. A small portion in the north-east, on the Mississippi, is rugged and rocky, and Table mound, a conical elevation with a flat summit, 3 or 4 miles from Dubuque, is, perhaps, 500 feet high. The State, however, may be generally described as a rolling prairie, crossed by rivers whose banks are skirted with wood. There are said to be some swamps in the north-west portion of the State. The prairies, though sometimes 20 miles across, are rarely more than 5 or 10. Geology. — The great coal-field of Missouri and Iowa, occupying the center and southern parts of the latter State, and extending out in the form of a semicircle, is surrounded on every side but the southern by a belt of upper carboniferous limestone. The Mississippi, on the south- east of the State, has its channel in a bed of the lower carboniferous limestone. The great drift deposits from Minnesota enter the north of Iowa. A narrow strip of the lead-bearing magnesian limestone lies on the Mississippi to the north-east, and is succeeded on the south-west first by a broad belt of upper magnesian, and then by a second of limestone of the Devonian period. The coal veins of Iowa are not nearly so thick as those of Illinois, being seldom more than four or five feet. The prai- ries of this State are sprinkled over with boulders, some of them of im- mense size. One measured by Professor Owen was 500 feet in circum- ference, 12 feet high, and probably as many beneath the soil. Minerals. — Iowa is rich in mineral resources, and but one-tenth of the great lead region of the upper Mississippi lies in this State. The ore is abundant, but lies deeper than on the east side of the river. Lead- mines have been opened in Dubuque and Clayton counties. Zinc and copper are also found in the same localities, and in connection with the lead. In 1853, there were shipped from Dubuque and Buena Vista, 3,250,970 pounds of lead. The great bituminous coal-field of Iowa and Missouri has an extent of near 200 miles from east to west, and 140 from north to south, within the former State, and occupying most of the cen- tral and southern portions. Copper has been recently discovered in Cedar county in considerable quantities. Rivers. — The rolling prairies of Iowa are furrowed by several impor- tant rivers, which cross it in a south-east direction, and help to swell the volume of waters in the great Mississippi, into which they discharge themselves. The Des Moines, the most important of these, has its sources in Minnesota, and traversing the entire State, forms near its mouth a small portion of the south-east boundary. Its length is about 450 miles, 250 of which are navigable for light steamboats at high water. The other rivers which flow into the Mississippi, proceeding in order north- ward, are the Skunk, Iowa, (the Red Cedar, a branch of the Iowa,) Wapsipinicon, Makoqueta, Turkey, and Upper Iowa. The Skunk is about 200, the Iowa 300, and the rivers last named from 100 to 200 miles in length. The Iowa is navigable for steamboats 110, and the Cedar river 60 miles. The Makoqueta and the Wapsipinicon have rapid currents, and furnish abundant water-power. The Missouri, and its tributary, the great Sioux, form the west boundary. The Little Sioux, the next impor- tant tributary of the Missouri from Iowa, has a course of little more than iowa. 585 100 miles. There are a few small lakes in the north and west parts of the State. Objects of Interest to Tourists. — The principal claim of this new and as yet scarcely explored State, on the attention of travelers, must chiefly rest upon the beauty of its undulating prairies, or its picturesque landscapes. There are, however, a few objects which may be classed among natural curiosities, of which the following are the most prominent. Numerous sinks, or circular depressions in the surface of the ground, from 10 to 20 feet across, are found in different places, and particularly on Turkey river, in the north part of the State. Small mounds, from 3 to 6 feet high, and sometimes 10 or 12 in a row, are found on the same stream, within 10 or 15 miles of its mouth. A cave, several rods in ex- tent, exists in Jackson county, from which flows a stream large enough to turn a mill. The Upper Iowa and Makoqueta rivers have worn their channels through magnesian limestone rocks, leaving, on the southern banks, cliffs, worn by the rain, frost, and winds, into resemblances of castles, forts, etc. Climate, Soil, and Productions. — According to meteorological ta- bles kept at Muscatine, in 1851, by T. S. Parvin, Esq., the maximum of January was 46°, the minimum, 16° ; for February, maximum 52°, mini- mum 0°; March, maximum 78°, minimum 12° ; April, maximum 70°, minimum 21°; May, maximum 82°, minimum 23°; June, maximum 85°, minimum 44°; July, maximum 92°, minimum 44° ; August, maxi- mum 85°, minimum 52°; September, maximum 91°, minimum 30°; October, maximum 79°, minimum 18°; November, maximum 51°, mini- mum 14°; December, maximum 56°, minimum 18°. Greatest heat, July 27,92°; greatest cold, December 16, 18°; range, 110°. The Missis- sippi closed January 30th ; opened February 21st. Last frost, May 24th ; first in Autumn, September 28th. Rainy days, 101 ; 53 of which were in May, June, and July; 20 snowy days, 55 cloudy, 88 clear, and 212 variable. The amount of rain that fell during the entire year was 72.4 inches. A frost in May killed most of the fruit. The peach-tree blos- soms in April, fall wheat ripens in July, spring wheat in August, and Indian corn in October. The rivers are frozen over from 2 to 3 months on an average each winter. The soil of Iowa is generally excellent and of easy cultivation, with prairie and woodland intermingled. The valleys of the Red Cedar, Iowa, and Des Moines, (we quote Owen's Geological Report,) as high as latitude 42° or 42° 31', presents a body of arable land, which, taken as a whole, for richness in organic elements, for amount of saline matter, and due admixture of earthly silicates, affords a combination that belongs only to the most fertile upland plains. After passing latitude 42° 30' north, near the confines of the Couteau des Prairies, a desolate, knobby country commences, the highlands being covered with gravel and supporting a scanty vegetation, while the low grounds are either wet or marshy, or filled with numerous ponds or lakes, and where the eye roves in vain in search of timber. North of 41° 30', and between the head waters of the Grand, Nodaway, and Nishnabotona rivers, the soil is inferior in quality to that south of the same parallel. The staples of this State are Indian corn, wheat, and 586 iowa. live stock, besides considerable quantities of oats, rye, buckwheat, barley, Irish potatoes, butter, cheese, hay, wool, maple-sugar, beeswax and honey ; and some rice, tobacco, beans, peas, sweet potatoes, orchard fruit, wine, grass-seeds, hops, flax, and silk are produced. There were 14,805 farms, including 824,682 acres of improved land, in Iowa in 1850, pro- ducing 8,656,799 bushels of Indian corn; 1,530,581 of wheat; 1,524,345 of oats; 276,120 of Irish potatoes; 52,516 of buckwheat; 25,093 of barley; 19,916 of rye; 373,898 pounds of wool; 2,171,188 of butter; 209,840 of cheese; 89,055 tons of hay; 78,407 pounds of maple-sugar; live stock of the value of $3,689,275; slaughtered animals, $821,164; market products, $8,848; and orchard products, $8,434.* Forest Trees. — Iowa is in many places destitute of timber ; along the rivers, however, it is well wooded, except near their sources. On the intervals between the rivers there are often prairies of from 15 to 20 miles, without so much as a bush higher than the wild indigo and com- pass-plant. The greatest scarcity of trees is north of 42°. Ash, elm, sugar, and white maple grow in alluvion belts of from one-fourth to one mile in width on the river banks. The other forest trees are poplar, various species of oak, black and white walnut, hickory, locust, iron wood, cotton- wood, lime or basswood, and some pine on the northern parts of the State. Oak constitutes the larger part of the timber of the State. The peach grows too luxuriantly, and blooms too soon to admit of its being culti- vated to advantage. The grape, gooseberry, and wild plum are indi- genous. Manufactures. — As a newly settled State, Iowa can of course have made as yet but little progress in manufactures; though she has within her limits two important elements of manufacturing industry, viz. : abundance of coal and water-power. In 1850 there were 482 establish- ments, producing each $500 or upward annually; of these 3 were engaged in the manufacture of iron, employing $5,500 capital, and 17 male hands, consuming raw material worth $2,524, and producing castings, etc., worth $8,500 ; 1 woolen factory, employing $31,225 capital, and 7 male hands, consuming raw material worth $3,500, and producing 14,000 yards of stuffs, valued at $13,000; and $19,000 invested in manufacturing malt and spirituous liquors, consuming 51,150 bushels of Indian corn, and 7,200 of rye, and producing 160,000 gallons of whisky, etc. Homemade manufactures were valued at $221,292. In 1852, there was invested in mills and distilleries the sum of $280,438. Internal Improvements. — Only eight years a member of the con- federacy, the energies of Iowa have hitherto been chiefly directed to th opening of common roads and making other improvements. Still sh had, in January, 1854, 480 miles of railroad in course of construction, and others projected, which, when completed, will connect the Missis- sippi, at Burlington, Davenport, and Dubuque, with the Missouri at Council Bluffs, and two other points, the one south and the other north of Council Bluffs; and also unite Dubuque and Keokuk with St. Louis, *By a State census in 1852, the horses numbered 61,088 ; sheep, 171,325 ; swine, 277,090, and the neat cattle valued at $1,998,489. iowa. 587 Missouri. These roads are already under contract from Davenport to Fort Des Moines, from Muscatine to Fredonia, and to Moscow. Commerce. — Iowa has no foreign trade, but is very favorably located for internal traffic, washed as it is by the Missouri on the west, and Mississippi on the east, and its interior traversed by the Des Moines, Iowa, Cedar, and other rivers. The principal articles of export are grain, flour, lead, pork, and live stock. In the year 1852-53, 57,500 hogs were packed in Iowa, and 45,060 in 1853-54. Education. — All lands granted by Congress, all escheated estates, and whatever per centage Congress may allow on the public land sold within the State, are to constitute a fund, the interest of which and the rent of unsold lands, together with military and court fines, are to form an appropriation for the support of public schools in Iowa, which are to be under the direction of a superintendent of public instruction, elected for three years by the people. Schools must be kept open at least three months of every year in each district. An appropriation is also made for the support of Iowa University, which is to be perpetual. There were, in 1850, two colleges in Iowa with 100 pupils and $2,000 income ; 742 public schools, with 29,616 pupils and $51,492, of which 119,078 was from public funds and $16,149 from taxation; 31 academies and other schools, with 1,051 pupils, $7,980 income, of which $8,000 was from endowments; and 35,473 pupils attending school as returned by families ; of the adult population, 1,853 could not read and write, of whom 1,077 were foreigners. Religions. — There were 193 churches in Iowa in 1850, of which the Baptists owned 20; Christians, 10; Congregationalists, 14; Episcopalians, 5; Friends, 5; Lutherans, 4; Methodists, 71; Presbyterians, 38; and the Roman Catholics, 18. The rest were divided among German Re- formed, Moravians, Unionists, and Universalists. — See Tables of Religions, Appendix. Number of persons to each church, 1,000. Value of church property, $177,425. Periodicals. — In 1850 there were published in Iowa, 2 tri and semi- weekly, 25 weekly newspapers, and 2 monthly periodicals, with an aggre- gate annual circulation of 1,512,800 copies. Public Institutions. — In 1850 there were 4 public libraries in Iowa, with an aggregate of 2,650 volumes, and 28 schools and Sunday-school libraries with 3,140 volumes. There is a State Prison at Fort Madison, on the Mississippi. Population. — Iowa had 43,112 inhabitants in 1840, and 192,214 in 1850, of whom 100,885 were white males, 90,994 white females, 168 colored males, and 167 colored females, (By State census in 1852, the population was 228,873, and in 1854, 326,014, being an increase of 133,800 since 1850.) This population was divided among 38,517 fami- lies-, occupying 32,962 dwellings. Of the population only 41,357 were born in the State, 129,674 in other States of the Union, 3,785 in Eng- land, 4,485 in Ireland, 1,064 in Scotland and Wales, 1,756 in British America, 7,152 in Germany, 382 in France, 2,208 in other countries, and 382 whose places of birth were unknown, making more than 10 per cent, of the population of foreign birth. Population to the square mile, 377. TZZ DISAPPOINTED JOLI 3ZZIIR. GOLZ SZZZZ7. S SZ_LTEG ON ZHZ TTJROM 588 iowa. During the year ending June 1, 1850, 2,044 deaths occurred, or about 10 in every 1000 persons ; 135 paupers received support in the same period, of whom 35 were foreigners. In the same year there were 59 deaf and dumb, all white ; 50 blind, do.; 42 idiotic, do.; aud 94 insane do. Of the population, 217 were engaged in mining, 10,409 in agricul- ture ; 355 in commerce; 1,629 in manufactures; 13 in navigating the ocean, 78 in internal navigation, and 365 in the learned professions. Counties. — There are in Iowa 49 organized counties, viz : Allomakee, Appanoose, (or Appanuse,) Benton, Black Hawk, Boone, Buchanan, Cedar, Clarke, Clayton, Clinton, Dallas, Davis, Decatur, Delaware Des Moines, Dubuque, Fayette, Fremont, Henry, Iowa, Jackson, Jasper, Jefferson, Johnson, Jones, Keokuk, Lee, Linn, Louisa, Lucas, Madison, Mahaska, Marion, Marshall, Monroe, Muscatine, Page, Polk, Pottawato- mie, Poweshiek, Scott, Tama, Taylor, Van Buren, Wapello, Warren Washington, Wayne, and Winnishiek. Capital, Fort Des Moines. Cities and Towns. — In 1854, Burlington had a population of 7,306; Dubuque, 6,634; Davenport, 5,272; Keokuk, 4,789; Muscatine, 3,694; Iowa City, 2,570, and Fort Madison, 2,010. Government, Finances, Banks, etc. — The governor of Iowa is chosen for 4 years, and receives 81,000 per annum; the senate, com- posed of 30 members, for the same period, and the house of represen- tatives, of 59 members, for 2 years ; all elected by popular vote. The sessions of the Legislature are biennial and convene on the first Monday in December of every alternate year. The members receive 82 per diem for the first 50 days of the session, but after that only 81 a day; 82 are allowed for every 20 miles traveled. The judiciary is composed — 1. Of a supreme court, presided over by one chief and two associate judges, receiving each 81,000 per annum. 2. Of district courts, each presided over by a single judge, receiving 81,000 per annum. The judges of the supreme court are elected by joint vote of the Legislature for 6 years, and the district judges by the people of their respective districts for 5 years. The assessed value of property in Iowa in 1853 was 849,384,906 ; and public debt, 879,795, in December, 1854. There was but one bank in the State in June, 1852, with a capital of 8200,000, circulation 8100,000, and coin 850,000. History. — Iowa formed originally a part of the Louisiana purchase, then successively a part of Missouri, Wisconsin, and lastly of Iowa Territory. It became an independent member of the confederacy in 1846. Settle- ments were permanently commenced about 1833; the first at Burlington. Iowa City, a flourishing town, and seat of justice of Johnson county, is beautifully situated on the bluffs which rise from the left bank of the Iowa river, about 80 miles from its mouth, 33 miles north-west of the Mississippi river at Muscatine, and about 760 miles in a straight line west by north of Washington. Latitude 41° 39' north, longitude 91° 39' west. When this place was selected as the seat of government, in May, 1839, it was entirely in a state of nature, and within a year from that time it contained from 500 to 700 inhabitants. The town is em- bowered among groves of trees, and surrounded by fertile prairies. The principal streets are Capitol street and Iowa avenue, which are about IOWA- 589 100 feet in width. At the intersection of these, on a commanding eminence, stands the Capitol, a fine edifice of the Doric order, 120 feet long by 60 feet wide. The material was quarried in this vicinity, and is marked with spots and rings, which give it the name of " bird's-eye marble." The cost is estimated at 8100,000. The river is navigable by steamboats from its mouth to this place in all stages. Several rail- ways are projected or in course of construction, which, when finished will connect the town with Dubuque, Keokuk, and Davenport. The river affords in this vicinity excellent water-power, which is partially improved. Iowa city contains several churches, a college, an academy, and other schools. Three or four newspapers are published here. Population in 1850, 2,262; in 1853, about 4,000. Burlington, a flourishing commercial city, seat of justice of Des Moines county, and formerly the capital of Iowa, is situated on the Mississippi river, 45 miles above Keokuk, 250 miles above St. Louis, and 88 miles south-east of Iowa city. In respect to population, this town is not equalled by any in the State, excepting Dubuque, which is of nearly the same extent. It continues to maintain a steady and healthy growth, notwithstanding the removal of the seat of government in 1839. The river in this part of its course is a broad and beautiful stream of clear water, and the town, situated partly on the top of the bluffs, overlooks a section of country abounding in rich and delightful scenery. Burlington is regularly laid out, and the greater part of the houses are of brick or stone. It contains (January, 1854,) 9 churches, a Baptist college just established, a hotel, said to be the largest in the State, 2 steam flouring-mills, 4 saw-mills, 1 planing-mill, 2 founderies, a door and sash-factory, and 2 large public-school buildings. Two daily papers, 1 tri-weekly, and 4 weeklies are issued. Gas-works are about being established. There are two plank-roads — one 50 miles long, ex- tends westward from this city to Fairfield — and a railroad to be opened in 1855, will connect it with Peoria and other towns of Illinois. Popu- lation in 1854, estimated at 7,000. Dubuque, a flourishing city, and seat of justice of Dubuque county, is situated on the right bank of the Mississippi river, about 200 miles above Burlington, 450 miles above St. Louis, and 24 miles by water from Galena. The situation of Dubuque is regarded by some persons as more beautiful than that of any other city in Iowa. It stands on a broad platteau or terrace, which extends along the river for several miles. The city is regularly laid out, and contains a number of handsome buildings. Dubuque is the central depot of the mining region of Iowa, and is a place of active trade. Large quantities of lead are taken from the mines in this vicinity, and sent down the river by steamboats; stone coal and limestone are also abundant. It is stated in the public journals that a quarry of variegated brown marble has been recently found on the bank of the river opposite Dubuque. The city contains a Catholic cathedral, a number of Protestant churches, a United States land-office, 4 newspaper offices, and 2 banks. In 1S52, about 100 houses, chiefly of brick, were erected, and large sums were expended in improving the harbor and in paving the streets. The reported value of imports in 38 590 iowa. 1852, was $1,670,390, of which $560,000 was for dry goods, $488,000 for groceries, and $136,000 for steam engines and machinery. The value of exports was $629,140, including 116,000 pigs of lead, valued at $348,000. The number of steamboat arrivals in 1851 was 351, and in 1852, 417. Dubuque is the terminus of the northern branch of the Illinois Central railroad, and of the Dubuque and Keokuk railroad, the former of which (September, 1854,) is nearly or quite completed, and the latter in an advanced process of construction. It is the oldest town in the State, having been settled by French Canadians about 1786. Popu- lation about 8,000. Davenport, the capital of Scott county, is finely situated on the Mississippi river, at the foot of the upper rapids, opposite the town of Rock Island, 230 miles above St. Louis, and 60 miles east of Iowa city. It has advantages which, indicate that it will continue to grow in extent and importance. The prosperity of Davenport is increased by its connection with the East by means of the Chicago and Rock Island railroad. The Davenport and Iowa railroad, opened about the 1st of January, 1854, to Iowa city, is located to Fort Des Moines, and is ulti- mately to be extended to Council Bluff's. During low water the naviga- tion is obstructed by the rapids, which extend 20 miles above this place. Two or three newspapers are published here. Iowa college was estab- lished in Davenport in 1846 or 1847, and is a flourishing institution. Stone coal is so abundant and cheap in the vicinity, that steam-power is chiefly used for manufacturing purposes. Davenport is built at the foot of a bluff, which rises gradually from the river, with a chain of rounded hills in the background. The scenery around the town is scarcely surpassed by any on the river. It was first settled in 1837, and is now incorporated as a city. Population in 1854, estimated at 4,500. Keokuk, is situated at the foot of the " Lower Rapids" of the Mis- sissippi river, 205 miles above St. Louis, and 125 miles south of Iowa city. It is at the head of navigation for the larger class of steamers, and the natural outlet of the fertile valley of the Des Moines, which is the most populous part of the State. A line of splendid steam-packets communicates daily between Keokuk and St. Louis. The number of steamboat arrivals in 1852 was stated to be 795. The Lower Rapids are 11 miles in extent, in the course of which the river has a fall of 24 feet. The cargoes of vessels ascending the river are transhipped over the rapids by lighters drawn by horses, and then reshipped on board of steamboats for their destination. Keokuk stands on a basis of fine lime- stone, affording an excellent material for building. It contains the med- ical department of the State university, 6 or 7 churches, 3 academies, several public schools, and a hospital. Two weekly newspapers and 1 medical journal are published here. The town contains also between 80 and 90 stores, 2 steam flouring-mills, and 2 iron founderies. The reported value of merchandise sold here in 1852, was $1,345,000. A railroad is in course of construction from this place to Dubuque, 180 miles. Keokuk is thought to be one of the most eligible points for bridging the Mississippi, which is here about 1 mile wide. The river iowa. 591 flows over a bed of limestone, and is bordered by the bluffs, wbicb rise abruptly nearly 150 feet high. Between these bluffs is an island J, 700 feet wide. The population of Keokuk, in 1845, was 4G0; in 1852 it amounted to 3,963; in 1854, to 4,789. Muscatine, formerly Bloomington, capital of Muscatine county, is situated on the right bank of the Mississippi, 100 miles above Keokuk and 32 miles south-east of Iowa city. Commencing at the head of th upper rapids of the Mississippi, the river may be traced in a direction almost due west for more than 40 miles, until it strikes a series of bold rocky bluffs, by which its course is suddenly turned towards tbe south. At the apex of this bend, on the summit of these bluffs, is situated the city of Muscatine. The place was first settled by the whites in 1836, previous to which time it had been an Indian trading post, known by the name of Manatbeka. It is now one oifche most populous and commer- cial towns of the State, and is the shipping point for an extensive and fertile Territory. In consequence of the bend in the river, Muscatine is nearer the center of the State than tbe other ports on tbe Mississippi, and it naturally commands tbe trade of two great fluvial divisions of of Iowa, namely, the valleys of the Bed Cedar and Iowa rivers. There are two steam saw mills in the city, that turn out about 4,000,000 feet of lumber annually. The logs are obtained chiefly from Minnesota, above the Falls of St. Anthony. About 10,000,000 feet of lumber are sold here yearly, besides large quantities of laths, shingles, and wooden ware. Muscatine is about to derive benefit from railway communication. The Muscatine and Oskaloosa railroad is under contract to Fredonia and located to Oskaloosa, and it is thought that the road will be extended to the mouth of Platte river. The Muscatine and Cedar Kapids branch railroad, the 3d division of the Mississippi and Missouri railroad, is al- ready in operation to Moscow, and when completed will open communica- tion with the capital of the State. The projected railroad from Bock Island, Illinois, to Fort Des Moines, is also expected to pass through this city. Muscatine has a good landing for steamboats navigating the Mississippi. The town contains churches of 9 or 10 denominations, several academies, about thirty stores, and numerous factories and mills; 2 newspapers are published here. Incorporated a city in 1853. Population about 6,000. Council Bluffs, formerly Kanesville, a post-village and capital of Potawatomie county, near the Missouri river, 250 miles west of Iowa city. It has 30 or 40 stores. The Davenport and Iowa railroad is intended ulti- mately to be extended to this place. Population in 1854, 3,500. It was first settled by the Mormons. Many emigrants to Utah get their outfit here. Fort Des Moines, (de-inoin',) is situated at the junction of the Des Moines and Baccoon rivers, 120 miles west of Iowa city. The seat of the State government was established in 1855. The Des Moines is suscepti- ble of steam navigation to this point, which is the terminus of the slack- water improvement now prosecuted by the State. The projected rail- road from Davenport on the Mississippi river to Council Bluffs is expected to pass through this place. Mines of stone coal have been opened in the vicinity, and timber is abundant. The river furnishes extensive 592 Missouri. water-power, which is partially employed in flouring mills and saw mills. 2 newspapers are published here. The old Fort Des Moines was evac- uated by the troops of the United States in 1846. Fort Madison, capital of Lee county, on the Mississippi river, 12 miles above the head of the lower rapids, 22 miles above Keokuk, and 22 miles below Burlington. The situation is beautiful and healthful; the ground rising gradually from the water to the west part of the town. The lat- ter is well built, with a large proportion of brick houses. It contains the State prison, a handsome brick court-house, and 5 or 6 churches of the same material. 2 or 3 ferry-boats ply constantly across the river, which is nearly a mile wide. Fort Madison is a place of much activity in trade and manufactures; in the latter of which it appears to have made more progress than any other town in the State. 2 or 3 news- papers are published here. Lwge quantities of grain, pork, etc., are shipped at this place, which is also an extensive depot for pine lumber. Population in 1850, 2,300; in 1853, about 3,000. MISSOURI. TpE Missouri river, which is the longest tributary stream in the world, has its source in the Rocky mountains, latitude 45° north, longitude 110° 30' west. The springs which give rise to this river, are not more than a mile from the head waters of the Columbia, which flows west to the Pacific ocean. The first 500 miles of its course to the Great Falls ia nearly north; then inflecting east-north-east, it reaches its extreme northern bend at the junction of White Earth river, latitude 48° 20' north. After this its general course is south-east, till it joins the Mis- sissippi in about 38° 50' north latitude, and 90° 10' west longitude. At the distance of 411 miles from the source of the Missouri, are what are denominated the gates of the Rocky mountains For a distance of nearly 6 miles, the rocks rise perpendicularly from the water's edge to a hight of 1,200 feet. The river is compressed to a width of 150 yards, and for the first 3 miles there is only one spot, and that of but a few yards in extent, on which a man could stand between the water and the per- pendicular walls. At a distance of 110 miles below this, and 2,575 miles above the mouth of the Missouri, are the Great Falls, where the river descends, by a succession of falls and rapids, 357 feet in 16 miles. The perpendicular falls, commencing down the stream, are, first one of 87 feet, one of 19 feet, one of 47 feet, and one of 26 feet. Between and Missouri. 593 below these are continual rapids of from 3 to 18 feet descent. These falls, next to Niagara, are regarded as the grandest in North America. The bed of the Missouri commences at the confluence of 3 small streams, about equal in length, and running nearly parallel to each other — Jefferson's, Madison's, and Gallatin's. The Yellowstone, 800 yarda wide at its mouth, and probably the largest tributary of the Missouri, enters it from the south-west, 1,216 miles from its navigable source. The two rivers, at their junction, are about equal in size. Steamboats ascend to this point, and may ascend farther, both by the main stream and its affluent. Chienne river, 400 yards wide at its mouth, enters the Missouri from the south-west, 1,310 miles from its mouth; White river, 300 yards wide, enters it from the south-west, 1,130 miles from its mouth; Big Sioux river, 110 yards wide, enters it from the north-east, 853 miles from its mouth; Platte rivej^OOO yards wide, enters it from the south-west, 600 miles from its mouth; Kansas river, 233 yards wide, enters it from the south-west, 340 miles from its mouth; Grand river, 190 yards wide, joins it from the north, 240 miles from its mouth, and Osage river, 397 yards wide, flows into it from the south-west, 133 miles from its junction with the main stream. The Missouri is stated to be 3,096 miles long to its confluence with the Mississippi; add to this, 1,253 miles, the distance its waters must flow to reach the Gulf of Mexico, and we have an entire length of 4,349 miles. There is, however, reason to believe that the early statements respecting the extent of this river and its tributaries were somewhat exaggerated. Throughout the greater part of its course, the Missouri is a rapid, turbid stream. No serious obstacle, however, is presented to navigation from its mouth to the Great Falls, a distance of 2,575 miles, excepting perhaps its shallowness during the season of the greatest drought, when steamboats meet with difficulty in ascending. The flood from this river does, not reach the Mississippi till the rise in the Red, the Arkansas, and the Ohio rivers has nearly subsided. Vast prairies, with narrow strips of alluvion skirting the streams, compose the Missouri basin, excepting the upper portion of the river, which flows through an arid and sterile region. The entire extent of area drained, is estimated at 500,000 square miles. Missouri, one of the largest of the United States, and the first formed wholly west of the Mississippi river, is bounded on the north by Iowa, (from which it is separated for about 30 miles on the north-east by the Des Moines river,) and on the east by the Mississippi river, which divides it from Illinois, Kentucky, and Tennessee; on the south by the Arkansas, and on the west by Indian, Kansas, and Nebraska Territories; from the latter two of which it is partly separated by the Missouri river. This State lies (with the exception of a small pi-ojection between the St. Francis and the Mississippi river, which extends to 36°) between 36° 30' and 40° 36' north latitude, and between 89° 10' and 96° west longitude, being about 285 miles in its greatest length from east to west, and 280 in width from north to south, including an area of 67,380 square miles, or 43,123,200 acres, only 2,937,425 of which were im- proved in 1850. Face of the Country. — This great State is mostly level or undulat- 594 MISSOURI. ing north of the Missouri, while the portion south of that river (much the larger part of the State) exhibits a greater variety of surface. In the south-east part, near the Mississippi river, and south of Cape Girar- deau, is an extensive marsh, reaching beyond the State into Arkansas, and occupying an area of about 3,000 square miles. The remainder of this portion, between the Mississippi and the Osage rivers, is rolling and gradually rising into a hilly and mountainous district, forming the out- skirts of the Ozark mountains. Beyond the Osage river, at some dis- tance, commences a vast expanse of prairie land, which stretches away to the Rocky mountains. The ridges forming the Ozark chain, which prob- ably in no place reaches an elevation of 2,000 feet, extend in a north- east and south-west direction, separating the waters that flow north-east into the Missouri river from those that flow south-east into the Missis- sippi river. The geological fea^res of this State are very interesting. One of the richest coal-fields pernaps in the world, occupies the greater part of Missouri north of the Osage river, and extends nearly to the north boundary of Iowa. A carboniferous limestone, which comes to the sur- face on the east and west borders of the State, forms a rim from 5 to 40 miles in breadth. The lower magnesian limestone crops out on the Missouri river, from 25 miles above Jefferson city to within 35 miles of its mouth, with occasional obtrusions of sandstone. Schoolcraft thus speaks of the Ozark mountains: "The Ozark is a term applied to a broad, elevated district of highlands, running from north to south cen- trally through the States of Missouri and Arkansas. It has on the east, the striking and deep alluvial tract of the Mississippi river, and on its west the woodless plains or deserts which stretch below the Ilocky moun- tains." Minerals. — Missouri is particularly rich in minerals, and a vast region in the neighborhood of Iron mountain and Pilot knob is, perhaps, unsurpassed on the globe for productiveness in iron of the best quality. Though existing in the greatest abundance and purity in this locality, this mineral is found on the Maramec river, at Birmingham on the Mis- sissippi, 120 miles below St. Louis, and in other parts of the State. The principal mines of lead in Missouri, according to Whitney, are in Wash- ington county, on the branches of the Maramec river. There are a few others in Franklin and Jefferson counties, but the aggregate product of lead from all the mines in the State, in 1851, was only estimated at 1,500 tons, a decline of more than one-half from that of 1842. Copper exists throughout the mineral region, (a tract of 17,000,000 or 18,000,000 acres,) but is most abundant near the La Motte mines. It is found combined with nickel, manganese, iron, cobalt, and lead, and these often yield 34 per cent, of the pure metal. Of the other metals named, all except nickel are found in considerable quantities. Silver exists in the lead ore, 350 pounds of pure metal having been obtained from 1,000,000 pounds of lead. Tin has been found in small quantities. Of the non- metallic minerals, limestone abounds north of the Missouri river, and forms a good building-stone. Marbles beautifully veined and crystal- line are found in parts of the State; also gypsum, sandstones, red and white, porphyries, sienite, saltpetre, sulphate of baryta, kaolin, and infe- Missouri. 595 rior clays. The red sandstone is of too coarse and loose a texture for architectural purposes, but the white, found near St. Genevieve, makes superior glass. In a letter to us, Professor Silliman, Sr., says: "At a place called Arcadia, the iron, in a dyke several yards wide, is bounded by walls of porphyry." Coal. — Bituminous coal, much of it cannel coal, exists in vast beds on both sides of the Missouri river, below the mouth of the Osage, and 40 miles up that river. The great cannel coal-bed in Callaway county con- sists, in one place, of a solid stratum 2-1 feet, and in another 75 feet in thickness, and is believed to be the largest body of cannel coal known. Coal is also found in the neighborhood of Lexington, and in many other places. Rivers. — Missouri enjoys the navigation of the two greatest rivers in the United States, if not in the world. By means of the Mississippi river, which coasts her entire eastern boundafy, she can hold commercial inter- course with the most northern territory of the Union, with the whole of the valley of the Ohio, with some of the Atlantic States, and with the Gulf of Mexico. By means of the Missouri, her other great river, she may extend her internal commerce to the Rocky mountains, besides receiv- ing the products that may be furnished in future times by its multitude of tributaries. The Missouri river coasts the north-west of the State for about 200 miles, (following its windings,) and then darts across the State in a direction a little south of east, dividing it into two portions, of which about a third is north, and the remainder south of that river. The south shore is bounded in many places by bluffs of from 100 to 300 feet in hight, while the north is often bottom lands, not generally liable to inun- dation. Both the Mississippi and Missouri rivers are navigable for large steamers far beyond the limits of the State, though the navigation of the latter is impeded by the swiftness of its current (twice that of the Mis- sissippi) and by the shifting sands. The Missouri river receives a num- ber of tributaries within the limits of the State, the principal of which are the Chariton and Grand rivers from the north, and the Osage and Gasconade from the south. The principal tributaries of the Mississippi river within the State are the Salt river, north, and the Maramec river, south of the Missouri river. The St. Francis and White rivers, with their branches, drain the south-east part of the State, and pass into Arkansas. The Osage is navigable for steamboats 275 miles, and it is proposed to improve its navigation, as well as that of the Grand, Salt, and Maramec rivers. Fine plank and timber are floated down the Gasconade river. Objects of Interest to Tourists. — We shall hardly be able to do justice to Missouri in this respect, in the present state of our knowledge of the interior, as there are doubtlsss, in her mountain recesses, gorges, waterfalls, and caves whose fame has not yet reached us. To the geolo- gist, the State already possesses ample inducements for a visit; while the lover of fine scenery will find much to interest him in the wild bluffs both of the Missouri and the Mississippi rivers, which rise to an elevation varying from 50 to 300 feet. In the south-east part of the State, the scene of the earthquakes of 1811 and 1812, may be viewed many traces of that startling event : among others are to be seen, at the bottoms of 596 Missouri. lakes, submerged forests and canebrakes. Pilot knob, 444 feet bigh, and Iron mountain, 1,500 feet higb, tbe former of steel, as it is said, and tbe latter of nearly pure iron, are well worth a visit from tbe curious and scientific tourist. Big spring, at tbe bead of the Maramec river, rising in a very deep basin, 100 feet across, and surrounded by banks as many feet in perpendicular bight, gives rise to a stream 60 feet wide, and 3 feet deep, and with sufficient force to turn 2 mills at its source. The water is extremely cold. Schoolcraft describes a cave near some of the bead waters of tbe White river thus: — "The opening appeared to be 80 or 90 feet wide, and 30 high. A vast gloomy rotunda opened before us, which very soon after entry increased to a hight of 60 or 70 feet, and in width to 150 or 200 feet. This hall extended into the rock southerly, branching off into lateral avenues. We explored the main gallery for 500 or 600 yards, when we met with obstructions." Climate. — The climate of Missouri is very variable : in tbe winter the thermometer sinks below zero, and the rivers are frozen so as to ad- mit the passage of heavily laden vehicles. Tbe summers are excessively hot, but the air dry and pure. In the autumns, bilious and remittent fevers are common on the river bottoms. Pulmonary complaints, how- ever, to such a degree as to terminate in consumption, are infrequent. Soil and Productions. — The soil of Missouri, speaking generally, is good, and of great agricultural capabilities; but the most fertile portions are in the river bottoms, which are a rich alluvion, (in some cases, how- ever, mixed with sand,) and in that portion north of the Missouri river, except in the east where a sandy soil prevails. South of the Missouri there is a greater variety in the soil, but much of it is fertile, and even in the mountains and mineral districts there are rich valleys, and about the sources of the White, Eleven Points, Current, and Big Black rivers, the soil, though unproductive, furnishes a valuable growth of yellow pine. The marshy district of the south-east part will, when the population shall have become sufficiently dense to justify the expense of drainage, be probably one of the most fertile portions of the State. The great staple of Missouri is Indian corn, and more hemp is produced than in any State except Kentucky. The other great products are wheat, oats, tobacco, wool, peas, beans, Irish and sweet potatoes, fruits, butter, cheese, pork, hay, flax, honey, and beeswax; considerable rye, buckwheat, market pro- ducts, grass-seeds, maple sugar, and some rice, barley, wine, hops, silk, and molasses. In 1850 there were in the State 54,458 farms, occupying 2,938,426 acres of improved land, (less than 60 acres to each farm,) and producing 2,981,625 bushels of wheat; 44,268 of rye; 36,214,537 of Indian corn; 5,278,079 of oats; 46,017 of peas and beans; 936,006 of Irish potatoes; 335,505 of sweet potatoes; 23,641 of buckwheat; 13.696 of flaxseed; 17,113,784 pounds of tobacco; 1,627,164 of wool; 7,834,359 of butter; 203,572 of cheese; 116,925 tons of hay; 16,028 of hemp; 527,160 pounds of flax; 178,910 of maple sugar; 1,328,972 of beeswax and honey; orchard products valued at $514,711; market products, $99,- 454; live stock, $19,887,580; and slaughtered animals, $3,367,106. Forest and Fruit Trees. — "The river bottoms are covered with a luxuriant growth of oak, elm, ash, hickory, cottonwood, linn, and white MISSOURI. 597 and black walnut. In the more barren districts are found white and pin oak, and sometimes forests of yellow pine. The crab-apple, papaw, and persimmon are abundant; as also the hazel and pecan." There are 3 species of wild grape; and apples, pears, peaches, apricots, and nectarines yield well. Manufactures. — Missouri has not as yet largely engaged in this branch of industrial' employments; though in 1850, there were 3,030 establishments, each producing $500 and upwards annually; 2 of tlicse were cotton factories, employing $102,000 capital, 75 male and 80 female hands, consuming raw material worth $86,446, and producing 13,260 bales of batting, valued at $142,000; 1 woolen factory, employing $20,- 000 capital, 15 male and 10 female hands, consuming raw material worth 316,000, and producing 12,000 yards of cloth, and 6,000 pairs of blank- ets, worth a total value of $56,000 ; 13 iron forges, founderies, etc., em- ploying $848,100 capital, and 722 male hands, consuming raw material worth $254,996, and producing 25,413 tons of pig, cast, and wrought iron, valued at $719,795; capital invested in the manufacture of malt, and spirituous liquors, $298,900, consuming 124,400 bushels of barley, 309,200 of Indian corn, 24,900 of rye, and 31 tons of hops, producing 44,850 barrels of ale, etc., and 939,400 gallons of wine, whisky, etc.; and 148 tanneries, employing $228,095 capital, consuming raw material worth $247,956, and producing leather valued at $866,241. Homemade manufactures were produced to the value of $1,674,705. Internal Improvements. — On the 1st of January, 1855, Missouri** had 50 miles (that portion of the Pacific nearest to St. Louis) of completed railroad, and, according to Hunt's Merchant's Magazine, 963 in course of construction, intended to connect Hannibal with St. Joseph, and St. Louis with Kansas — the great Pacific railroad. Another road, a branch of the Pacific, is to connect St. Louis and Springfield with Neosho. A railroad is also contemplated from St. Louis northward to the Iowa line, and one from the same point to Iron mountain. Plank-roads are coming much into vogue in this State, as well as elsewhere. Three per cent, on the sale of public lauds is devoted to internal improvements. The State loans $3,000,000 to the Pacific, $750,000 to the Iron mountain, and $1,000,000 to the St. Joseph railroad. Commerce. — St. Louis is the great center of internal commerce of the Mississippi and its tributaries, which must greatly increase as the set- tlements on those great rivers extend themselves. It is also the depot of the fur trade of the Upper Missouri and its tributaries. The foreign imports of Missouri (a very small part of its trade) amounted, in 1852-53, to $859,654; tonnage of the State, 45,441, of which 39,431 was steam tonnage; number of vessels built, 22, of which 11 were steamers; tonnage 3,583. Of 1,195 steamers owned in the United States in 1853, 126 belonged to St. Louis. The exports of this State consist mainly of lead, pork, flour, wheat, tobacco, hemp, flax, and live stock. Missouri has long been the principal seat of an active caravan trade with Santa Fe; but this trade is not so extensive as formerly, a considerable portion having been diverted to Texas. (See St. Louis.) The leading articles imported by way of the Ohio, Missouri, and Mississippi and its tributa- 598 . Missouri. ries, in 1854, were wheat, corn, flour, barley, oats, tobacco, hemp, coffee, hides, pork, lead, lard, meats of different kinds, molasses, sugar, nails, paper, potatoes, salt, rope, whiskey, etc. Education. — Missouri has a school fund of 8575,668, and another fund of 8100,000, called the seminary fund. The State also appropriates one-fourth of its revenue to the support of schools ; making an annual income of about 8140,000, which is distributed among the counties. Every 16th section of the public lands is devoted to common schools. According to the census of 1850, this State had 9 colleges, with 1,009 students, and 879,528 income, of which 823,000 was from endowments; 1,570 public schools, with 51,754 pupils, and 8160,770 income, of which 874,807 was from public funds, 83,024 from taxation, and 87,178 from endowments; 204 academies and other schools, with 8,829 pupils, and 8143,171 income; 95,285 attending school, as returned by families. According to the American Almanac for 1854, there were in this State 6 colleges, with 548 students, and 2 medical schools, with 210 students. The State University, located at Columbia, in Boone county, is endowed with six townships of land by the general govern- ment. Four counties contended for the honor of having it located with- in their limits, and it was accorded to Boone because its citizens sub- scribed most liberally to its funds. Howard high school, at Fayette, in Howard county, is a flourishing and successful school. St. Charles col- lege, at the town of St. Charles, was established by Mr. Collier, who bequeathed the institution 810,000. Of the free adult population, 36,- 778, of whom 1,861 were of foreign birth, could not read and write. Religious Denominations. — Of 878 churches in Missouri in 1850, the different sects of Baptists owned 300; the Christian church, 57; the Episcopalians, 11 ; the Free church, 13 ; the Lutherans, 21 ; the Methodists, 250; the Presbyterians, 125; the Roman Catholics, 65; and the Union church, 11. The rest belonged to the Boatmen's church, the Church of Christ, the Evangelists, the German Protestants, the German Evangelical church, the Independents, the Jews, the Mennonites, the Mormons, the Republicans, the Rationalists, the Unitarians, and the Uni- versalists— giving one church to every 776 inhabitants. Value of church property, 81.561,610. Periodicals. — There were published in Missouri, in 1850, 5 daily, 4 tri and semi-weekly, 45 weekly, and 7 monthly newspapers and maga- zines, with an annual aggregate circulation of 6,195,560 copies. Public Institutions. — The State penitentiary at Jefferson city had, in December, 1852, 232 convicts confined within its walls, of whom 145 were from the county of St. Louis. This institution is conducted by lessees, who pay an annual rent of 85,000 to the State. In 1853, the Lunatic asylum at Fulton had 93 inmates; and the Deaf and Dumb asylum at the same place 43. The Blind asylum at St. Louis is being enlarged. There were, in 1850, 13 public libraries, with 23,106 volumes; 79 school and Sunday-school, with 31,650 volumes; 4 colleges, with 19,700, and 1 church library, with 600 volumes. Population. — Though originally settled by the French, less than one-third of one per cent, of the present inhabitants of Missouri are .< Missouri. 599 of that extraction. The population amounted to 20,845 in 1810; 66,- 586 in 1820; 140,145 in 1830 ; 383,702 in 1840 ; and 682,044 in 1850 ; of whom 312,987 were white males, and 279,017 females ; 1,361 free colored males, and 1,257 females ; 43,484 male slaves, and 43,938 female. Population to the square mile, 10.49. This population was divided into 100,890 familes, occupying 96,849 dwellings. In the year ending June, 1850, 12,121 deaths occurred, or nearly 19 in every 1,000 persons; in the same period 2,977 paupers received aid, of whom 1,729 were for- eigners, at an expense of about $18 to each pauper. Of the free popu- lation, 266,934 were born in the State; 250,166 in other States; 5,379 in England; 14,734 in Ireland; 1,225 in Wales and Scotland; 1,053 in British America; 44,352 in Germany; 2,138 in France; 3,593 in other countries; and 1,322 whose places of birth were unknown; making more than one-eighth of the population of foreign birth. There were in the State, according to the census, 282 deaf and dumb, of whom 19 were slaves; 232 blind, of whom 3 were free colored, and 38 slaves; 262 insane, of whom 2 were free colored and 11 slaves; and 357 idiots, of whom 32 were slaves. According to a State census in 1852, the pop- ulation of Missouri was 724,687, of whom 87,207 were slaves. Of the entire population in 1850, 742 were engaged in mining; 92,408 in agriculture; 2,522 in commerce; 11,100 in manufactures; 39 in navigat- ing the ocean; 1,885 in internal navigation; and l,469in the learned professions. Counties. — There are in Missouri 101 counties, viz., Adair, Andrew, Atchison, Audrain, Barry, Bates, Benton, Boone, Buchanan, Butler, Caldwell, Callaway, Camden, Cape Girardeau, Carroll, Cass, Cedar, Chariton, Clarke, Clay, Clinton, Cole, Cooper, Crawford, Dade, Dallas, Daviess, De Kalb, Dodge, Dunklin, Franklin, Gasconade, Gentry, Greene, Grundy, Harrison, Henry, Hickory, Holt, Howard, Jackson, Jasper, Jefferson, Johnson, Knox, Laclede, Lafayette, Lawrence, Lewis, Lincoln, Linn, Livingston, Macon, McDonald, Madison, Marion, Mercer, Miller, Mississippi, Moniteau, Monroe, Morgan, Montgomery, New Madrid, Newton, Nodaway, Oregon, Osage, Ozark, Perry, Pettis, Pike, Platte, Polk, Pulaski, Putnam, Ralls, Randolph, Ray, Reynolds, Ripley, Scot- land, St. Charles, St. Clair, St. Francis, St. Genevieve, St. Louis, Salina, Schuyler, Scott, Seneca, Shannon, Shelby, Stoddard, Sullivan, Taney, Texas, Warren, Washington, Wayne, and Wright. Capital, Jefferson city. Cities and Towns. — St. Louis is the largest city in Missouri. Pop- ulation in 1850, 77,854,(120,000 in 1854; the other principal towns are St. Joseph's, population about 5,000; Hannibal, 2,557; Lexington, 2,698; Castor, 2,084; Jefferson city and St. Charles city, about 3,000 each; Weston, 1,915; Cape Girardeau, 1,500; Palmyra, 1,284; Caron- delet, 1,201 ; and St. Genevieve, Liberty, Paris, and Louisiana city, each about 1,000. Government, Finances, etc. — The governor and lieutenant governor are elected by the popular vote for 4 years, the former receiving S2,000 per annum, and the use of a furnished house, and the latter $4.50 per diem during the session of the senate, of which he is ex-officio president. 600 MISSOURI. The senate consists of 18, and the house of representatives of 49 mem- ■ bers, the former elected for 4 and the latter for 2 years, by the people. The 'sessions of the legislature are biennial, and meet on the first Monday in December. Twelve months' residence in the State is necessary before exercising the right of suffrage. Missouri is entitled to 7 members in the national house of representatives, and to 9 electoral votes for pre- sident. The judiciary consists — 1. Of a supreme court, composed of 3 judges; 2. Of 14 circuit courts, and the courts of St. Louis, (viz., com- mon pleas", criminal, and probate courts,) and the common pleas courts of Hannibal city; and 3. Of county courts. The judges of the su- preme and circuit courts are elected for 6 years, by popular vote, and the county judges for 4 years in the same manner. The supreme court holds 2 sessions annually, one at St. Louis and one at Jefferson city. A circuit court is held twice a year in each county, and has exclusive juris- diction in criminal matters, and in all contracts and matters of tort over $90. The county court is limited to matters of the probate and local county affairs. The judges of the supreme court receive $1,800 salary each; the circuit judges $1,250 each, and the judges of the St. Louis courts $3,000. There is a recorder's court at St. Louis, confined to small offenses. The assessed value of property in the State in 1850 was $98,595,463; public debt, (in 1854,) $3,307,000, of which $2,450,- 000 was loans to railroads; school fund, $575,668; other productive property, $272,263 ; receipts for the two years ending October 1, 1854, $808,685 ; expenses, $628,483. Missouri had, in January, 1854, 1 bank with five branches, with $1,215,405 capital, $937,835 in coin, and $2,- 487 580 circulation. The amount of bonds authorized to be loned to railroads was originally $8,250,000, of which, as stated, $2,450,000 have already been issued. History. — Though the French were the first settlers, and for a long time the principal inhabitants of Missouri, yet a very small portion of her present population is of that descent. A fort was built by that people as early as 1719, near the site of the present capital, called Fort Orleans, and its lead-mines worked to some extent the next year. St. G-enevieve, the oldest town in the State, was settled in 1755, and St. Louis in 1764. At the treaty of 1763, it was assigned, with all the Territory west of the Mississippi, to Spain. "In 1780, St. Louis was besieged and attacked by a body of British troops and Indians, 1,540 stron°." During the siege, 60 of the French were killed. The seige was raised by Colonel Clark, an American, who came with 500 men to the relief of the place. At the close of the American Revolution, the Territory west of the Mississippi remained with Spain till it was ceded to France in 1801. In 1803, at the purchase of Louisiana, it came into the possession of the United States, and formed a part of the Territory of Lou- isana till the formation of the State of that name in 1812, when the re- mainder of the Territory was named Missouri, from which (after a stormy debate in Congress as to the admission of slavery) was separated the present State of Missouri in 1821. In 1811 and 1812 occurred a series of earthquakes which, in the neighborhood of New Madrid in this State, caused the earth to open, and entirely changed the face of the MISSOURI. • 601 •country, swallowing up hills and forming new lakes, while others at the same time were drained of their water. The current of the Mississippi was turned back till the accumulating waters gained sufficient force to break through the newly raised barrier. All this region is now a widely extended marsh. St. Louis, port of entry, and seat of justice of St. Louis county, is situated on the right bank of the Mississippi river, 20 miles below the entrance of the Missouri, 174 above the mouth of the Ohio, 74-4 below the Falls of St. Anthony, 1,194 above New Orleans, and 128 miles east of Jefferson city. Latitude 38° 87' 28" north, longitude 90° 15' 16" west. The site rises from the river by two plateaus of limestone forma- tion, the first 20 and the other 60 feet above the floods of the Missis- sippi. The ascent to the first plateau, or bottom as it may be termed, is somewhat abrupt; the second rises more gradually, and spreads out into an extensive plain, affording fine views of the city and river. St. Louis extends in all nearly 7 miles by the curve of the Mississippi, and about 3 miles back; the thickly -settled portion, however, is only 2 or 2£ miles in length, following the river, and about 14; miles in breadth. The city is well laid out, the streets being for the most part 60 feet wide, and, with but few exceptions, intersecting each other at right angles. Front street, extending along the levee, is upwards of 100 feet wide, and built up on the side facing the river, with a range of massive stone warehouses, which make an imposing appearance as the city is approached by water. Front, Main, and Second streets, parallel to each other and to the river, are the seat of the principal wholesale business. The latter is occupied with heavy grocery, iron, receiving, and shipping houses. Fourth street, the fashionable promenade, contains the finest retail stores. The streets parallel to Front and Main streets, are designated Second street, Third, Fourth, Fifth, and so on; and those on the right and left of Market street, extending at right angles with the river, are mostly named from various forest trees, similar to the streets of Philadel- phia. Large expenditures have been made from time to time in grading and otherwise improving the streets and alleys of St. Louis. As yet, but slight provision has been made for public squares. One handsome enclosure, however, called Lafayette square, has recently been laid out in the south section of the city, about 2 miles south-west of the court- house. St. Louis is handsomely built, especially the new portion of the city; the principal material is brick, though limestone is employed to some extent. Public Buildings. — It may be doubted whether any city of the Union has improved more rapidly than this in the style of its public buildings. But 24 years ago a court-house was erected at a cost of $14,000; it was then considered a handsome edifice, and sufficient for all future purposes. Within a few years, however, this building has given place to a new structure, now nearly completed, the cost of which will scarcely fall short of half a million of dollars. It is constructed of Genevieve limestone, and occupies an entire square, bounded by Market, Chestnut, Fourth, and Fifth streets. The style of architecture some- what resembles that of the Capitol at Washington. The fronts are 602 MISSOURI. adorned with porticos, and in the interior is a rotunda, lighted from the dome. The '-market and town-house," erected at a cost of 820,000, has been pulled down, and the "Center market buildings," a handsome block, now occupies their place. A new city hall is about to be erected, of a size and style corresponding to the present prospects of the city. A new custom-house is now being built, at an estimated cost of about 8350,000. Of the 4 churches— the Catholic, the Presbyterian, the Episcopal, and the Baptist— which were all the town contained in 1829, not a vestige now remains; but in their stead had arisen, in 1850, 49 others, viz.,°12 Catholic, 12 Methodist, 8 Presbyterian, 5 Episcopal, 2 Unitarian, 2 Evangelical, and 1 Boatmens', besides 2 Jewish synagogues. At the present time the number of churches in St. Louis is probably not less than 60, several of which have cost above 8100,000. Of these, St. George's (Episcopal,) at the corner of Locust and Seventh streets, the Catholic Cathedral, on Walnut street, between Second and Third, and the Church of the Messiah, a magnificent Gothic edifice recently erected by the Unitarians, at the corner of Olive and Ninth streets, are regarded as the finest. The Cathedral is 136 feet long, and 84 feet wide, with a front of polished freestone 58 feet high, adorned with a Doric portico. In the tower is a chime of bells, the heaviest of which weighs 2,600 pounds. The United States arsenal, situated on Arsenal street, in the extreme south-east section of the city, is a large and imposing edifice, enclosed by handsomely-ornamented grounds. Jefferson Barracks are located about 13 miles below, on the bank of the Mississippi. Hotels. — The principal hotels in St. Louis are the Planters' house, on Fourth street, between Pine and Chestnut; the United States hotel, at the corner of Market and Third streets; the Virginia hotel, corner of Main and Green streets; the Missouri hotel, corner of Main and Morgan streets; and the Monroe house, at the corner of Second and Olive streets. The Planters' house is one of the largest and finest hotels in the West, and occupies the entire front between Pine and Chestnut streets. Another first-class hotel is also being erected. Institutions. — Among the benevolent institutions may be mentioned the city hospital, the marine hospital, for which a new building has just been erected, 3 miles below St. Louis; the sisters' hospital, the home for the friendless, and the orphan asylums. The home for the friendless, designed for the benefit of aged indigent females, and opened October 4th, 1853, is situated on the Carondelet road, about 4 miles from the court-house. The edifice, formerly " Swiss College," consists of a stone center, 75 feet in length, and two frame wings, each from 30 to 40 feet in length; the whole two stories high. _ The premises comprise about 8 acres of ground, variously diversified with walks and shade-trees. About 840,000 have been raised for the support of the institution. The city hospital has long been distinguished for the excellent accommodations which it affords to the sick, but of late has been found inadequate to the wants of the rapidly-increasing population. Its extension, therefore, as well as the erection of new and suitable buildings for the quarantine, is earnestly recommended in the mayor's message of October, 1853. A new edifice, intended as a House of MISSOURI. 603 Refuse, has recently been completed, and the building formerly occu- pied as the "Smallpox hospital," situated on land in the St. Louis common, known as the Old County Farm, has also been fitted up for the reception of a juvenile reform school. The literary and educational institutions of St. Louis have, consider- ing their recent origin, attained a high degree of excellence. The University of St. Louis, organized in 1S32, under the direction of the Catholics, is a well-ordered, well-sustained, and most efficient institution. The medical college connected with it is also very flourishing. During the term for 1852-53, it was attended by 72 students; and on the 1st October, 1853, it is said that the number of matriculants enrolled for the ensuing season, was four times greater than any previous year. The medical department of the Missouri university is also located here. It was founded in 18-40, and during the winter of 1852-53, 92 students attended its lectures. The members of both these colleges enjoy ex- cellent advantages for practice in the City hospital. The Mercantile Library Association of St. Louis was organized in 1846, and incorpora- ted in 1851. The building is of brick, in the Italian style, 105 feet by 127, and 4 stories high. The united size of the library and reading- room is 80 feet by 64. The lecture-room, 80 feet by 44, is in the second story, and in the third is a grand hall, the largest and finest perhaps in the whole West, being 105 feet long and 80 feet wide. The entire co>t of building, including the site, is estimated at 895,000. The library contains upwards of 12,000 volumes, besides about 100 magazines and other periodicals, apart from its newspapers. Any person of mer- cantile pursuits is admitted as a member of the association; clerks paying S2 initiation fee and 75 cents quarterly, and proprietors 85 initiation fee and $2.50 quarterly. The citizens of St. Louis have given especial attention to the cause of popular education. Their schools are the pride of the city, and attended by upwards of 5,000 pupils; the property is valued at 8500.000, and the annual income amounts to about 850,000. A large number of pupils are also educated in the private seminaries of the city, and in the convents. The buildings of the latter are conspicuous and handsome edifices. St. Louis has about 25 publication offices, issuing newspapers and other periodicals. Seven or eight newspapers are published daily; and several have weekly, and two — the Times and the Republican — have tri-weekly and weekly editions. Four or five are printed in the German language. The press is generally characterized by ability, and several of its issues have a wide circulation. Real Estate, Improvements, ltc. — The value of real estate in St. Louis has advanced at an astonishingly rapid rate. In 1822, the trus- tees 'of the First Presbyterian church purchased a lot fronting 150 feet on Fourth street, and 90 feet on Washington avenue and St. Charles streets, for 8300. In April, 1853, the ground was leased for a term of 50 years at the rate of 84,000 per annum. Since then, seven splendid stores have been erected on it, at a cost of 850,000. The lot at the corner of Third and Chestnut streets, extending 120 feet on the former, and 150 feet along the latter, was sold in 1826 for 8400. It is now 604 MISSOURI. valued at $30,000, exclusive of the improvements. In 1831, Judge Lucas conveyed to Samuel Wiggins a lot 90 feet front and 135 deep, at the corner of Fifth and Chestnut streets, upon which Christ church now stands, for the sum of $1,600. The value of the same ground is now estimated at $22,000. In 1833, a block situated between Fourth and Fifth streets, and Locust and St. Charles streets, was sold for $6,000; it is now said to be worth $182,000. In 1835, the trustees of the Unita- rian church purchased a lot at the corner of Fourth and Pine streets, 127 feet deep, and 60 feet front on Fourth street, for $2,000, or $33.33 per front foot. Two years ago it was sold for $24,000, or $100 per front foot, and in 1853 it was supposed to be worth $600 per front foot. In 1814, a meadow belonging to Judge Carr was laid off into lots, and sold at auction, on ten years' credit, at prices varying from $8 to $18 per lot. What was then a meadow now contains a population of not less than 4,000 souls, and the lots are valued at four times their original cost. Real estate investments on Front and Main streets vary from $700 to $800 per front foot; and on Second street, lots which five years ago could be bought for $100 or $150 per front foot, now sell for $500. There has also been a corresponding advance in real estate lying with- out the city. Land which in 1842-43 sold at prices varying from $75 to $150 per acre, now brings from $1,200 to $2,000. In 1847-48, two estates in the south part of the city were disposed of in lots, the sales of which ranged from $1.50 to $4 per front foot. Now the same property sells as high as $40 per foot. And finally, six years ago land that could be purchased in the common, south of the city, for about $75 per acre, now commands $1,000, and but little is to be obtained even at that price. The city of St. Louis owns 600 acres of these lands, and has claims upon as much more. The revenue of the city twenty years ago, as ascertained from the assessment list, was $4,765.98. In 1853 the assessed valuation of property, though falling far below its real value, was $39,397,186, upon which a tax of $413,670 is collected, independent of $46,000 arising from the sale of licences. The assessed value of merchandise amounted to $8,744,786.64, an increase of $2,299,606.57 over 1852. The highest tax paid by any individual in 1829 was $532; now, one gentleman, J. H. Lucas, Esq., pays in his own name a city tax of $14,000; nor does this include the whole of his assessment, as much of his property is held conjointly with others. The water-works, which in 1829 were of very inconsiderable impor- tance, embraced, in 1853, above 35 miles of pipe. The main reservoir, built in 1849, is capable of containing 5,000,000 gallons of water, being 250 feet square, and 15 feet deep. It occupies the south-west quarter of an enclosure 660 feet on a side, situated at the head of Olive street, to which water is forced from the river by stationary engines, a distance of If miles. Since the above date, a new reservoir has been con- structed, the water from which is superior in purity to that furnished fiom the old one. It has also been contemplated to erect a water-tower on the site of the old reservoir on Broadway, of sufficient capacity to be a valuable adjunct in the event of large fires. Gas-works were put in MISSOURI. 605 operation about 8 years since, and their magnitude may be inferred from the fact that, in 1853, 33 miles of street-pipe -were laid throughout the city. The levee, which 20 years ago was a mere mud-bank, with transverse ways to the water's edge, has since undergone very important changes. Great expenditures have been made in filling up and otherwise im- proving it directly in front of the city; and at a session of the gov- ernmental authorities, in the spring of 1853, an appropriation of $200,000 was made, one half to be expended north of Cherry, and the other half south of Plum street. Extensive improvements in the harbor are also being made. The expenditures for this purpose, from April 11 to October, 1852, amounted to $50,256. A roadway has recently been constructed from the Illinois shore to and serosa Blood Island. It is three feet above high-water mark, and cost about $150,000. Manufactures. — The manufactures of St. Louis, although in their infancy, are hardly less important than her commerce. The flouring business is carried on here more extensively than in any city of the west. The product of the 19 mills of the city amounted, in 1851, to 408,099 barrels; in 1852, to 383,184 barrels; and in 1853, to 457,076 barrels; their daily capacity is estimated at 3,000 barrels. At Belcher's sugar-refinery, which is one of the most extensive in the Union, the yield for 1853 amounted to 16,563 boxes, 7,958 hogsheads, 12,457 barrels, and 29,848 bags of refined sugar, besides 103,550 packages and 10,567 barrels refined from molasses and cane sirup. There are also several other sugar-refiners. The manufacture of different kinds of chemicals and oils is extensively carried on. The quantity of oil pro- duced from lard in 1852 was estimated at between 4,000 and 5,000 barrels, an increase of 1,000 barrels over the previous year. In 1853, there were received at the principal oil manufactory of the city 22,931 bushels of flaxseed, being an increase of 8,880 bushels over the previous year. There are in St. Louis 10 establishments for the manufacture of tobacco, several of which are on a large scale; these yielded, in 1852, 8,000 packages, consuming 700 hogsheads of raw material. The manu- facture of hemp into bale-rope and bagging, and the distilling of whisky, also employ a large amount of capital. But however important these several interests may be in themselves, they can hardly be regarded as the most important to St. Louis. Indeed, there can be no doubt that the development of the vast mineral resources of the region tributary to her, is destined to exert a controlling influence upon the future of this metropolis. Her manufactures of iron already exceed those of any other city on the Mississippi, if not in the west. Numerous founderies annually turn out stoves and other castings to a large amount. Railing, machinery, and steam-engines are extensively manufactured. A large establishment for the production of locomotives went into operation in 1853. Mining operations have already been commenced at Iron mountain ; from this source Messrs. Chouteau, Valli and Harrison obtain the material for their extensive rolling mill. Coopering and the pack- ing of meat are likewise important branches of business; the latter, 39 606 MISSOURI. for 1852, comprised 47,000 hogs, and about 3,000 barrels of beef. The above statements indicate only a few of the leading manufactures of St. Louis. According to the census returns of 1850, the number of estab- lishments in operation in the city exceeded 13,000, comprising about 100 different manufactures, which amounted in value to upwards of $15,000,000. Since then, nearly every branch of this species of in- dustry has been greatly extended — probably doubled. Shipping, Commerce, etc. — Each stream which contributes to th commerce of St. Louis has its regular packets, and for the most part, a separate place of landing. The Missouri, the Illinois, and the Upper Mississippi have as fine craft as float on the Western waters, while the down-river, or New Orleans traders, are scarcely excelled in size, equip- ment, speed, and construction. The St. Louis boats also visit the Ohio, the Wabash, the Tennessee, and other streams. With such an immense inland navigation, the commerce of the port requires a large number of steamers, and its tonnage in this respect exceeds that of every other Western city. The following table exhibits the monthly arrival of steamboats at St. Louis, from the various rivers and places specified in 1852. MONTHS. January. . February. March. . . . April May June July August . . . September October ... November December , Total... o is 20 24 27 32 37 25 35 21 22 34 26 27 330 a o 12 25 47 64 74 44 35 34 42 55 40 48 520 1 88 80 78 94 73 72 37 78 94 97 66 1 17 45 72 82 57 77 56 80 101 68 49 705 2 7 34 37 57 38 33 27 26 34 19 13 317 10 21 17 18 25 27 20 18 22 20 18 7 223 9 10 9 16 30 25 15 20 34 30 23 12 231 The aggregate arrivals of steamboats at St. Louis during the year 1850, was 2,907; 1851,2,625; and 1852,3,184. The shipping owned in the district, June 30, 1852, according to the custom-house returns, amounted to an aggregate of 37,862 tons enrolled and licensed, of which 32,646 were employed in steam navigation. In 1854, the shipping amounted to an aggregate of 48,575 tons, of which 41,980 were em- ployed in steam navigation. During the year, 9 steamboats, with an aggregate burden of 3,079 tons, were built. The total amount of coal received at St. Louis in 1853, is estimated at 2,837,818 bushels; sawn lumber, 36,412,451 feet; shingles, 30,462,- 700; laths, 6,947,000 ; cedar posts, 22,748 ; logs purchased at the city mills, « MISSOURI. 607 29,636,808 feet; and wood surveyed, 44,280;! cords. The total value of foreign importations entered at the custom-house in 1858, was $917,275, of which $487,750 was from England, and $124,606 from Pernambuco and Bahia. The duties collected amounted to $289,260. The importations of dry goods into St. Louis for the year 1852, were estimated at $7,000,000, (an increase of nearly $1,000,000 over the pre- vious year,) and the sales at $8,500,000. This, however, only has refer ence to the wholesale business. Including the retail trade of the city, the entire imports were estimated at $10,500,000, and the sales at $13,- 000,000. The business of the heaviest wholesale houses amounts to from $500,000 to $S00,000 annually. The Bank of the State of Missouri is the only chartered banking insti- tution in St, Louis, or in Missouri. It has five branches, viz., one at Fay- ette, one at Jackson, one at Lexington, one at Palmyra, and one at Springfield. The entire capital is $1,200,000, one-half of which is divided among the several branches. The local discounts of the city bank for 1853, amounted to $5,592,271, and the exchange purchased to $6,3-43,433; making the total business of the bank for the year $11,935,704. The amount of exchanges sold by the bank of Missouri and private bankers of the ity was estimated at $38,000,000, besides $4,000,000 remitted by merchants. The whole number of bonds outstanding against St. Louis in October, 1853, amounted to $2,- 735,296, and the interest on the same for the year, to $165,103,75. The entire revenue of the city, from April 11 to October 4, 1853, amounted to $414,252,32, and the expenditures for the same period, to $412,914,22. Of the latter sum, $44,938,92 was for improving and cleaning the streets; $24,475,64 for wharf improvements ; 19,611,54, the cost of the police department; $17,583,60 for lighting the city; $11,879,99 for the city hospital; and $7,302,30, the expenses of the fire department. The natural advantages which St. Louis enjoys as a commercial em- porium are probably not surpassed by those of any inland port in the world. Situated midway between two oceans, and near the geographical center of the finest agricultural region on the globe, almost at the very focus towards which converge the Mississippi, the Missouri, the Ohio, and the Illinois rivers, there can be no doubt that she is destined, at no distant period, to become the great receiving and distributing depot of most of the vast region drained by these streams. Having already reached an enviable position among her sister cities, she is looking west- ward, with a system of railways intended not only to bring to her mar- kets the agricultural and mineral treasures of the Missouri basin, but eventually to extend beyond the Rocky mountains to the valley of the Great Salt lake, and finally to the golden shores of the Pacific ocean. Her connection with the Atlantic cities, through Cincinnati and Chicago, is already secured beyond contingency. The construction of railroads penetrating various sections of her own State, designed ultimately to communicate with New Orleans, are also about to be undertaken. Of these, the Iron Mountain, the North Missouri, and the Hannibal and St. Joseph railroads are already chartered, and soon to be commenced. 608 MISSOURI. The Pacific railroad is now nearly completed to Jefferson city, and the Ohio and Mississippi road is in an advanced stage of construction, the cars having long been running to Salem, forming a connection with the Illinois Central railroad at Sandoval, and with the Chicago branch of it at Centralia. The opening of these various railways, and others pro- posed, will give St. Louis ready access to immense deposits of iron, coal, lead, and copper ores, within a circuit of 90 miles, equal to the wants of the whole Mississippi valley for centuries to come, and which have not to this time been brought into use, simply because of the difficulty and expense of reaching a market. Therefore, with all the commercial facil- ities which this metropolis now enjoys — facilities which have hitherto been productive of prosperity almost beyond example — what may she not become when the vast system of railways here contemplated shall have gone into operation ! History. — Among the many sites which the vast domain of uninhabi- ted territory in the Mississippi valley presented for founding a city, that on which St. Louis now stands was selected by Laclede, February 15th, 1764, as one possessing peculiar advantages for the fur trade, and for defense against the Indians. The confluence of the different rivers in the immediate neighborhood was a desideratum in the estimation of the trapper; it has become of vast importance to the place in establishing it as a center for agricultural and manufacturing enterprise. The statistics of these early times show how that for 15 successive years, ending in 1804, the average annual value of the furs collected at this port amounted to $203,750. The number of the deer skins was 158,000; of beaver, 36,900; of otter, 8,000; of bear, 5,100, and of buffalo, 850. The pop- ulation at this period was between 1,500 and 2,000, one-half of whom were absent a great part of each year as trappers and voyagers. It will readily be perceived that the elements which gave the settlement exis- tence were not of a character adequate to foster it beyond the limits of a frontier village ; and accordingly, as late as 1820, we find the accession of population had not swelled the original very materially. Up to this date the census only shows an advance to 4,598. Military expeditions and establishments, together with a sparse immigration, confined to those peculiar temperaments which delight in the wild and adventurous, still kept up a progressive improvement, which, centering here for personal security as well as for trade, still fixed it as the seat of a commercial and manufacturing metropolis, destined in a few years to become an object of interest throughout the world. On the 11th of August, 1768, a Spanish officer by the name of Rious, with a company of Spanish troops, took possession of St. Louis and Upper Louisiana, as it was termed, in the name of his Catholic majesty, under whose government it remained until its final transfer to the United States, March 26, 1804. In 1813, the first brick house was erected; in 1817, the first steamboat arrived — both important events, but neither of which became frequent until several years after. In 1822, St. Louis was chartered as a city, under the title given by Laclede, in honor of Louis XV. of France. From 1825 to 1830, the influx of population from Illinois began to be of im- portance. From this State the commerce of St. Louis received its first MISSOURI. 609 great impulse, and from this State it 'still derives a large portion of its support. With 1829 the keel-boat entirely disappeared. The steamer Yellowstone about this time ascended to the Great Falls, and was suc- ceeded by the Assinaboinc and others. Dry-goods houses were already established, and these sent out retail branches to Springfield, and other places in Illinois. Extensive warehouses began to be erected, some of which are still standing, having survived the great fire. They rose from their solid limestone foundations, built on a scale which shows that the impressions of the present were vividly portrayed to the minds of the people of that day. The population of St. Louis in 1830 was G,694, showing an increase of only 2,096 in ten years. In 1810 it had much more than doubled, having reached 16,469. Between these periods, therefore, we are to look for the commencement of that vast increase which has so distinguished the growth of this city. Population in 1850, 75,201 free, and 2,650 slaves; total, 77,850. Of these, 23,771 were born in Germany; 11,257 in Ireland; 2,933 in England; and 2,450 in other foreign countries: making an aggregate of 40,411 natives of foreign countries, and 37,- 436 natives of the United States. By a local census of 1852, St. Louis contained a population of 94,819; and if to this we add the population of the suburbs, it would swell the number to upwards of 100,000 souls; being an increase of about 20,000 since 1850, and nearly 81,000 since 1840. Hannibal, a flourishing town of Marion county, on the Mississippi river, is 153 miles above St. Louis, and 15 miles below Quincy, Illinois. It is advantageously situated for commerce, and is rapidly increasing in population and business. Large quantities of hemp, tobacco, pork, etc., which are raised in the vicinity, are shipped at this point. The adjacent county is very productive, and rather populous. Coal and carboniferous limestone, an excellent material for building, are abundant here. A railroad has be