A MANUAL 
 
 OF 
 
 RATIONAL BEE=KEEP!NG 
 
 C.DE RIBEAUCOURT. 
 
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A MANUAL 
 
 OF 
 
 RATIONAL BEE-KEEPING. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2017 with funding from 
 
 University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign Alternates 
 
 https://archive.org/details/manualofrationalOOribe 
 

 
A MANUAL 
 
 OF 
 
 RATIONAL BEE-KEEPING. 
 
 BY 
 
 C. DE RIBEAUCOURT, 
 
 PASTEUR OF ARZIER, SWITZERLAND, 
 
 AND PRESIDENT OF THE SOCIETE d’APICULTURE DE LA SUISSE ROMANDE, 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH BY 
 
 ARTHUR F. G. LEVESON GOWER, 
 
 MEMBER OF THE SOCIETE d’APICULTURE DE LA SUISSE ROMANDE, AND OF 
 THE BRITISH BEE-KEEPERS’ ASSOCIATION. 
 
 It 0 n U 0 n : 
 
 DAVI D BOGUE, 
 
 3, St. Martin’s Place, Trafalgar Square. 
 1879. 
 
(, 3 ? 
 
 R 35'/vn> 
 
 TRANSLATOR’S PREFACE. 
 
 During a visit which I paid to M. de Ri- 
 beaucourt in the autumn of 1876, I was much 
 struck by the simple and practical method 
 which he has applied to the management of his 
 bees, and which he has moreover extended to 
 the poorer inhabitants in the neighbourhood of 
 Arzier, by inducing them to modify the old 
 system of bee culture by the adoption of the 
 cheap and excellent bee-hive which he has 
 introduced amongst them. 
 
 A cheap and strong hive, on improved prin- 
 ciples, is, I feel sure, much wanted in England, 
 in order to promote an improved system of 
 bee-keeping amongst our cottagers ; but until a 
 working man can see clearly that the plan 
 which he is asked to adopt is the cheapest. 
 
VI Translator s Preface. 
 
 as well as the most practical, it cannot be ex- 
 pected that he will fall in with it. These quali- 
 fications, however, once proved, there is more 
 chance of his abandoning his old prejudices 
 (which on this subject are generally deeply 
 rooted) in favour of a new system. 
 
 M. de Ribeaucourt’s hive seems in every 
 respect to supply the above want. His system 
 of bee-keeping, together with a full description 
 of this hive, are given in the little Manual which 
 he has published, and which, for its simplicity 
 and practical bearing on the subject of which 
 it treats, has been widely circulated throughout 
 French Switzerland. It is with great diffidence 
 that I am now undertaking to translate this 
 Manual into English, as I feel sure that much 
 of the force of the original will be lost or 
 weakened by passing through my hands, and 
 that it would receive far better treatment from 
 a more experienced French scholar, and from 
 one better acquainted than I am with bees and 
 with the technical terms connected with bee- 
 keeping. As the author, however, expressed a 
 wish that I should undertake the translation, 
 
 I have done so to the best of my power, hoping 
 that those into whose hands it may fall will 
 
Translator s Preface, 
 
 Vll 
 
 not criticise the English rendering too severely, 
 and that if they are French scholars they will 
 turn to the original,^ in which the author’s 
 meaning will be found expressed far more 
 clearly and more concisely than in this trans- 
 lation. 
 
 A. L. G. 
 
 ^ “Manuel d’ Apiculture Rationelle,” par C. de Ribeaucourt. 
 J. Sandoz, Neufchatel. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 ON BEE-KEEPING IN FRENCH 
 SWITZERLAND. 
 
 French Switzerland appears to us to possess 
 all the requirements necessary and, in fact, in- 
 dispensable for successful bee-keeping; neverthe- 
 less, in passing through the various cantons of 
 which it is composed, we have experienced a 
 feeling of regret at the sight of a considerable 
 number of apiaries in a bad state, or even 
 sometimes abandoned altogether. 
 
 The last three years, in which the seasons 
 have been, for the most part, bad ones, the 
 number of gaps has been increased; and it is 
 only by following out a rational system, that 
 some few bee-masters have preserved the 
 number of their insect colonies unimpaired. 
 
X 
 
 Introduction. 
 
 Although all the different districts of our 
 country are not equally favourable for producing 
 honey, still we may affirm that, by paying great 
 attention to the bees, a return three or four 
 times as large as that generally obtained might 
 be insured. 
 
 The country contains a large amount of 
 meadow-land, natural and artificial, and all 
 kinds of fruit-trees ; in addition to which, the 
 forests and the undulating nature of the land, 
 not to mention the mountains, furnish great 
 resources for our winged insects. 
 
 It is true that, in the plains or in the low- 
 lying ground away from the mountains, the 
 supply of honey might be considerably increased 
 by moving the bees to the hills after haymaking, 
 as by this means the bee-master would secure 
 two gatherings of honey ; but at the foot of 
 the Jura, and the first slope of the Alps, this 
 removal is not of the same importance, for the 
 bees in these localities profit by the flora of the 
 plain as well as of the mountains. 
 
 Our country, far from supplying enough 
 honey for its wants, is forced to procure it from 
 elsewhere ; and there is, perhaps, no country 
 where there is a larger consumption of honey 
 than in our own cantons. 
 
Introduction. 
 
 XI 
 
 It would, no doubt, be desirable that the run- 
 honey, which we get from some German 
 cantons, should be free from all adulteration ; 
 and that in our hotels the landlords should no 
 longer supply, as honey, a chemical production 
 which is honey in appearance only. 
 
 It is, therefore, of the highest importance 
 to endeavour to better the condition of the 
 apiaries, and to establish new ones in places 
 which offer every security for their prosperity. 
 It is with a view to this that we have published 
 the following little treatise. May it receive at 
 the hands of the public in our cantons, a recep- 
 tion equal to that which was accorded to our 
 first edition. 
 
 C. DE RIBEAUCOURT. 
 
 Arzier^ Canton de Vaud. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping ... i 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 On the Prosperity and Decline of an Apiary con- 
 ducted ON THE Old System, and the means of 
 REMEDYING DEFECTS IN THAT SYSTEM ... ... Q 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 On the Bee-House simplified ii 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 On Various Systems of Hives 14 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Anatomy of the Bee 28 
 
XIV 
 
 Contents. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 On the Contents of the Hive 40 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 How TO TEST THE TRUE VALUE OF A HiVE 44 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 On Natural Swarms 46 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 On Artificial Swarms 51 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Honey from Supers 62 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Enemies of Bees 65 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Diseases of Bees — Death of the Queen — Steps to 
 
 BE TAKEN IN THE LATTER CASE 70 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Food for Bees 
 
 75 
 
Contents, 
 
 XV 
 
 X- 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Care to be given to Bees at different Seasons of 
 THE Year 77 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Extraction of Honey — Description of the Ex- 
 tractor 88 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 On the Manufacture of Wax 96 
 
 Conclusion 99 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 The Italian or Ligurian Bee — Its Advantages and 
 Acclimatization. 
 
 Description of Italian or Ligurian Bee — The manner of 
 introducing strange Queens into a Hive, and hence 
 of introducing Italian Queens — Means of preserving 
 a pure Breed 102 
 
ON RATIONAL BEE-KEEPING. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 ON RATIONAL BEE-KEEPING. 
 
 What is meant by rational bee-keeping ? 
 
 Some people imagine that by this term the 
 selection of one kind of hive is ' meant, to the 
 exclusion of all others. This is not our idea of 
 its meaning. 
 
 According to us, rational bee-keeping means 
 the culture of bees conducted with intelligence 
 by employing all the simplest and easiest 
 methods for obtaining the best supply of honey, 
 having an eye, at the same time, to the preser- 
 vation and increase of the colonies. 
 
 No system of apiculture can be called rational 
 which does not allow the bee-master to develop 
 the knowledge he possesses, and to profit by 
 that which he has acquired, in order to keep 
 
2 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keepmg, 
 
 his colonies in good condition, with the least 
 possible trouble, and at the same time to 
 increase, according to his wants, the produce of 
 his apiary, either in honey or in swarms. If, in 
 our little manual, we have spoken only of api- 
 culture generally, contenting ourselves with that 
 kind of hive which we have ourselves adopted, 
 it is because we were as yet unacquainted with 
 all the different systems of hives in use through- 
 out Europe and America ; and even had we 
 been acquainted with them, we should still have 
 preferred to recommend rational bee-keeping 
 with a simple and cheap hive, rather than to 
 review systems of hives which seem hardly 
 practical, and the high price of which puts 
 them out of the reach of the public in general. 
 
 We admit that rational bee-keeping can be 
 carried on with all systems of hives ; this, no 
 doubt, the fixists, Messrs. Gollin and Hamet, 
 French bee-masters, will allow also ; but to 
 conclude from hence that we ought to keep to 
 the use of hives on the old principle, which 
 offer no facilities for the management of bees, 
 and reject those with moveable bars, because 
 they have not yet come into general use, 
 would certainly not be rational. For our part. 
 
On Rational Bee-Keeping. 
 
 3 
 
 we know for a fact that all who have tried 
 the moveable bar system must have appreciated 
 its advantages. In apiculture, facility of mani- 
 pulation is of the greatest importance, as the 
 want of skill produced by the fear of being 
 stung often prevents a bee-keeper from giving 
 his bees, at the right moment, the attention they 
 require. 
 
 We will give a few examples in support of our 
 assertion. 
 
 A bee-master may be fully aware that combs 
 which have been perforated by the bees to ex- 
 tract the larvse of the moth, as well as combs 
 which have become hardened by age, are of no 
 use for the young brood ; but being in the 
 middle of hives made on the old principle and 
 occupied by bees, he will hesitate to remove 
 them, because, by making use of an instrument 
 to cut out the defective parts, he will run a risk 
 of destroying the workers, and possibly even the 
 queen herself. 
 
 If this operation be undertaken in winter, 
 additional cold is introduced into the hive by the 
 vacuum which is created ; and if delayed till the 
 spring (seeing that these defective combs often 
 contain brood as early as February), it may be a 
 
4 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 matter of doubt whether it is advisable to remove 
 them ; so that thus, owing to the construction 
 of the old hives, the operation is delayed until 
 the evil is past remedy. 
 
 In the case of a hive like ours, with move- 
 able bars, if there be no fresh comb in good 
 condition to replace that which is spoilt, that 
 fit for breeding purposes may be replaced in the 
 middle of the hive, and the defective comb at 
 the sides, together with the drone comb, until 
 the bees are in full work, at which time it can 
 be removed without the possibility of harm 
 being done to the colony.* Now, it is extremely 
 difficult, not to say impossible, to perform this 
 operation with the old-fashioned hives. 
 
 If we wish to make sure that a hive on the 
 old principle contains a queen, or if we want to 
 introduce a new queen, it is necessary to have 
 recourse to temporary suffocation, and often to 
 spend much time in searching for the queen 
 amongst thousands of motionless bees ; whilst 
 by taking up our moveable bars in succession, 
 beginning with those on which there are most 
 bees, the queen is immediately at our disposal. 
 
 The drone comb may also be used for the storing of honey. 
 
On Rational Bee-Keeping. 
 
 5 
 
 To this fact some members who attended my 
 lectures at Lausanne, or those I gave in the 
 cantons of Geneva, Vaud, and Neufchatel, are 
 able to bear witness. 
 
 In order to make an artificial swarm, it is 
 simply necessary to fix a piece of comb, con- 
 taining brood at different stages of maturity, to 
 the top of an ordinary hive, and to put this 
 hive in the place of a strong colony, of which 
 a large portion of the bees are abroad at work.* 
 
 Bees can also be induced to go into an empty 
 hive by means of drumming,'’ or, to speak in 
 plainer language, by rapping the full hive sharply 
 with a couple of sticks, or the hands, until the 
 bees are driven out. The author of a work on 
 bees remarks, however, that if no result is 
 obtained after an hour and a half by these 
 means, the operation should be recommenced 
 on the following day. Our readers will see as 
 we do, that this latter method can only be em- 
 ployed by those who have time to waste, and, 
 moreover, presents many difficulties.! 
 
 It is clear, however, that by taking out some 
 
 * Method pointed out, long ago, by M. de Gdieu. 
 t There is very little difficulty in expelling bees from a 
 stock by “ driving,” if properly performed. — Trans. 
 
6 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 portions of the moveable comb when filled with 
 brood, and placing them in a similar hive, or by 
 separating two hives when both the upper and 
 lower are full of comb and brood, the operation 
 takes a much shorter time, is far simpler, and, 
 moreover, is much more certain to succeed. 
 
 If we want to remove brood from an 
 ordinary hive into another similar one, no doubt 
 it can be done, but the difficulty consists in 
 fixing the comb in the hive ; whereas, with 
 moveable bars, we simply put it into its place. 
 
 If we wish to make certain that there is brood 
 in an ordinary hive, it is frequently impossible 
 to do so, especially if it be not sealed over ; 
 whereas, with our system of hive, nothing is 
 easier. 
 
 Lastly, if we want to remove the bees with 
 their combs from a common skep into another 
 hive, the operation is tedious and difficult ; 
 whereas, with hives made on our plan, it can be 
 accomplished with ease in ten minutes. 
 
 If we were to review all the operations which 
 may take place in an apiary in the course of the 
 year, the ease and rapidity with which each may 
 be done would always be enhanced by making 
 use of hives with moveable bars; and notwith- 
 
On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 7 
 
 standing the assertions to the contrary of those 
 who favour the old system, rational apiculture 
 will gain by adopting the new. 
 
 The German hives of Dzierzon, Berlepsch, 
 Blatt, etc., have not the advantage of supers of 
 any kind, whereas our hives can be used with 
 supers of any shape or size. 
 
 Would it, then, be best to convert all old- 
 fashioned hives into hives with moveable bars, 
 by transferring the comb with the bees from the 
 former into the latter, as has been done by some 
 young, but by no means inexperienced bee- 
 masters } We think not. There are in our own 
 apiary old-fashioned hives which we have no 
 intention of so converting. These hives will be 
 useful to us, as they have been up to the present 
 time, for the purpose of making artificial swarms, 
 by placing under each of them, in the spring, a 
 hive with moveable bars. 
 
 When the upper and the lower stories are 
 filled with bees and comb containing brood, the 
 straw hive may be conveyed to another part of 
 the bee-garden and our swarm is made ; nor 
 does this prevent us, after the operation is com- 
 pleted, from placing a fresh hive under each of 
 these hives respectively, or upon each of them 
 a super, as we think best. 
 
8 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 As we said before, we admit that rational 
 bee-keeping may be carried on with every kind 
 of hive ; but the system which we have adopted 
 offers a more certain return, and a facility for 
 carrying out each operation, which the best kind 
 of hive on the old principle does not afford. 
 We think it well, therefore, to repeat what we 
 said in a conversation we had with M. Bastian, 
 when discussing the meeting at Weinfelden : 
 ‘‘ Hives on the old principle, though not all pre- 
 senting the same drawbacks, remain as a sealed 
 book for the bee-master, whereas hives with 
 moveable bars are like a book with its pages 
 open. With these latter he will learn more 
 in a year than he would in a lifetime with the 
 former.’* 
 
{ 9 ) 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 ON THE PROSPERITY AND DECLINE OF AN 
 APIARY CONDUCTED ON THE OLD SYSTEM, 
 AND THE MEANS OF REMEDYING DEFECTS 
 IN THAT SYSTEM. 
 
 In speaking of bees, there is a French proverb, 
 “ On a vite beaucoup et vite pen ; ” that is to 
 say, that the prosperity of an apiary closely 
 precedes its ruin. This we can easily under- 
 stand, seeing, as we do, the Avay in which bee- 
 keeping is carried on in many localities. To 
 begin with, a swarm in good condition will give 
 one or two swarms the following year ; thus, 
 for a certain time, an apiary of from fifteen 
 to twenty hives will be kept well stocked. 
 For some years the swarms are sold. There 
 comes a bad year — there are no swarms ; the 
 hives get old, swarming ceases, and mortality 
 soon makes a clean sweep of this apiary, hitherto 
 in prosperous condition. 
 
lo On Ratio7ial Bee-Keeping. 
 
 If a swarm issues from a straw hive, the 
 colony whence it issued keeps diminishing, be- 
 cause the space allotted to the brood decreases 
 gradually, even in the most prosperous years. 
 
 The space left is diminished still further by 
 a second swarm ; and since the new queen, as 
 yet unimpregnated, cannot make use of the 
 empty cells for depositing her eggs, the bees fill 
 these cells with honey, and the colony which has 
 produced two swarms is often fated to perish 
 during the following winter, although amply 
 supplied with provisions. 
 
 According to the system which we are about 
 to explain, by means of artificial swarming the 
 strength of the colonies is largely increased, 
 seeing that the space allotted to the comb is 
 always in proportion to the wants of the bees. 
 
 Artificial swarming has also this advantage 
 over natural swarming, that it does not require 
 daily supervision and consequent loss of time ; 
 for when a natural swarm leaves the hive, it is 
 often lost, even after having been hived ; and at 
 other times, in spite, apparently, of the most 
 favourable circumstances, no swarm issues forth 
 at all, whereas by artificial swarms these con- 
 tingencies can be guarded against. 
 
( II ) 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 ON THE BEE-HOUSE SIMPLIFIED. 
 
 It is generally known that bee-houses should 
 be exposed as much as possible to the ten-o'clock 
 sun, and, at the same time, be sheltered from the 
 north wind. It is known also that a bee-house 
 should be suitable for the system of hives which 
 it is proposed to adopt. Now, in the bee- 
 house which we recommend, and in which we 
 have taken pains to unite all the advantages of 
 each system in use throughout French Switzer- 
 land,* the space between each row of hives should 
 be sufficient to allow three hives to be placed 
 one above the other, each being about six 
 inches in height, in addition to which two inches 
 must be allowed for the floor and crown boards. 
 
 * See frontispiece. 
 
1 2 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 making a total in all of twenty inches ; or, allow- 
 ing a little margin, we may say two and a half 
 feet. Calculating that the lowest row of hives 
 is at a distance of about a foot from the ground, 
 we get three and a half feet from the ground to 
 the rails which support the second row. 
 
 Three of our hives, placed one above the 
 other on these rails, require an additional height 
 of two and a half feet. These measurements 
 added together amount to six feet, which seems 
 to us high enough for our bee-house.* 
 
 It is of importance that the drip from the 
 roof should be at the back, and that the roof or 
 thatching should project about a foot on each 
 side of the bee-house. 
 
 The opening to a small bee-house can be 
 made either from the back or at the sides, ac- 
 cording to the depth from back to front. It is 
 indispensable that draughts should be excluded 
 on all sides. 
 
 When the bee-house is built of planks, we 
 recommend that the planks at the back and 
 sides should run in a groove formed by two 
 
 * In the frontispiece the height in front is shown as seven feet, 
 which will be found necessary if the house is thatched. 
 
On the Bee-House Simplified, 
 
 13 
 
 fillets, or strips, of wood nailed to the joists at 
 the top and bottom, so that in dry weather, 
 especially in winter and spring, the boards may 
 be tightened by means of a wedge inserted be- 
 tween them at one end.^ 
 
 Such a bee-house as this can be constructed 
 at a small cost During very hot weather, it 
 is a good plan to give ventilation during the day. 
 
 We now pass on to the different systems of 
 hives in use ; after which, we shall describe that 
 kind of hive which we have adopted, and which 
 has been of service to us in the various ex- 
 periments we have made. 
 
 * In the frontispiece weather-boarding is shown, instead of 
 this method. 
 
H 
 
 071 Ratio7ial Bee-Keeping, 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 ON VARIOUS SYSTEMS OF HIVES. 
 
 If we were to attempt to describe every system 
 of hive, we should have to compile a whole 
 volume on the subject ; and this, it should be 
 understood, neither time nor the compass of our 
 Manual allows. 
 
 Nevertheless, as we were reproached for 
 having, on a former occasion, ignored the dif- 
 ferent systems which exist in France, Germany, 
 and elsewhere, and for dealing solely with our 
 own, we think it right to supply this deficiency, 
 if such deficiency there has been. 
 
 Bees prosper in every kind of hive : the 
 fissure of a rock well exposed to the sun, a 
 hollow tree, a hole in a wall, a space between 
 a window and closed shutters, etc., suffices for 
 the construction of their combs, for breeding 
 
On Various Systems of Hives, 1 5 
 
 purposes, and for storing honey. But from the 
 moment they are placed under man’s manage- 
 ment, he should provide habitations to shelter 
 them from the inclemency of the weather and 
 for facilitating all operations connected with 
 them. In other words, man, as a rational being, 
 should carry on bee-keeping in a rational way. 
 
 In hot countries a simple wicker basket, a 
 barrel staved in, or an old box has satisfied 
 the wants of bee-keepers. But the difficulty of 
 managing the bees, and the fear of being stung, 
 have often induced them to have recourse to 
 suffocation in order to obtain the honey. Now, 
 however, the system of suffocation is only re- 
 sorted to by those who do not make use of 
 hives with moveable bars. 
 
 In French Switzerland, the common hive 
 has been in use from time immemorial, and 
 supers were employed as long ago as the last 
 century, though a good many old-fashioned 
 people with whom we are acquainted, do not 
 yet make use of them. They limit themselves 
 to hiving their swarms when they do not 
 escape, and to cutting honey out of their hives, 
 or to destroying the bees in the heaviest hives 
 in order to get possession of it. 
 
1 6 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 The straw hive, on the old plan, which does 
 not generally contain more than from fifteen to 
 eighteen pounds, is too small. In moderate or 
 bad years, the colonies cannot, in the spring, 
 provide against all their wants ; and their owner, 
 calculating on a supply of honey, which the 
 unfavourable weather prevents the bees from 
 collecting, sees them perishing from hunger, and 
 not from cold as is generally supposed. 
 
 This is proved by hundreds and, at times, 
 even thousands of bees being found with their 
 heads inserted in the cells, not having had the 
 strength to withdraw them. 
 
 Some bee-masters have an idea that straw 
 hives are warmer than wooden ones, and that 
 they possess the advantage of absorbing the 
 moisture which collects on the sides. Now, it 
 is clear to any careful observer that dampness 
 collects as much on the sides of a straw hive as 
 on those of a wooden one, and that during a hard 
 frost the inner surface of each may be covered 
 with a thin layer of ice without any apparent 
 detriment to the bees, since they are protected 
 by the internal warmth of the colony. Besides 
 which, the straw hive gets by degrees waterproof, 
 the sides, by the end of a year, becoming 
 covered with propolis. 
 
A natomy of the Bee, 
 
 construct a special cell round it, in the shape 
 of an acorn, either beneath or on the sides 
 of the comb. They only complete this cell 
 in proportion as the larva is developed, and 
 only seal it up when the larva is about to 
 become a queen, by passing through the state 
 of chrysalis or nymph. From the beginning of 
 the work until the hatching of the queen eleven 
 to fifteen days may elapse, depending on 
 whether the queen is produced from a newly 
 deposited egg, or from one which has been 
 deposited two, three, or four days ; in the latter 
 case the egg will have passed already into the 
 condition of larva. 
 
 The difference between the queen and the 
 worker consists in the fact that, although of 
 the same sex, the large size of her cell and the 
 difference of her food cause her to come to 
 perfection as a queen in sixteen days, whereas 
 worker bees take twenty-one days to arrive at 
 their imperfect state of development. 
 
 We say imperfect as to sex, for workers do at 
 times lay eggs, when left without a queen ; but 
 these eggs only produce drones, because, owing 
 to their construction, the workers cannot be 
 fertilized. 
 
 D 
 
34 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 As to the court which, according to some 
 authors, is paid to the queen, it is purely 
 imaginary. In the hive, she is mistress of her 
 movements ; and the bees only surround and 
 press upon her when she is in some danger, 
 or when she is dead. It would seem, in the 
 latter case, as if they made every effort to bring 
 her back to life. 
 
 THE DRONE, OR MALE BEE. 
 
 The drone has no sting, and is large and 
 
 thickly made. The size of 
 his head and body is larger 
 than that of the queen or 
 the worker bee. 
 
 The drone is the produce 
 of an unfertilized egg. If 
 
 details are wanted on this point, as on many 
 others which cannot be given in a small popu- 
 lar manual, they may be found in the treatise 
 on Rational Bee-Keeping by M. Bastian, of 
 Wissenbourg. 
 
 The drone may be distinguished from the 
 worker bee by the loud buzzing which he 
 makes on leaving the hive. A single drone 
 
A natomy of the Bee, 
 
 35 
 
 is sufficient to fertilize the queen. In the 
 hives of common bees, it is a good plan to 
 remove the drone comb, so as to diminish the 
 number of drones if possible ; but it sometimes 
 happens that the bees reconstruct, in the same 
 place, combs of the same kind. The safest way 
 would be to replace the drone comb with worker 
 comb, which can be easily done by those who 
 make use of the extractor. 
 
 In the case of Italian bees, it is better to 
 leave the drone comb alone, because the more 
 Italians there are, the greater the chance of the 
 common queens being fertilized by them. A 
 common queen thus fertilized produces a cross 
 breed which is more productive than the pure 
 Italian. 
 
 It is true that, while the drones are in the 
 hive, they consume a large quantity of the 
 honey collected by the workers ; but still, we 
 have not noticed that those hives which hold 
 most drones, provided the queen prospers, yield 
 less than those which contain fewer of these 
 gluttons ; for, though they do consume a great 
 deal of food in the hive, they create consider- 
 able warmth, a circumstance which enables a 
 greater quantity of bees to go out in search of 
 honey. 
 
36 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 THE WORKER BEE. 
 
 It is a well-known fact that the worker bee is a 
 female, as we have said already ; and that, in the 
 case of the queen’s disappearance, some of the 
 workers deposit eggs in the cells, which come 
 to perfection, but which only 
 produce drones ; so that every 
 hive which only contains work- 
 ers, and no queen, must neces- 
 sarily perish. The worker bee 
 takes twenty-one days to pass through the 
 stages of egg, larva, and nymph, and arrive at 
 maturity. In a few days after leaving her cell, 
 she goes out to collect honey, and takes her 
 share in the work of the hive. 
 
 The worker bee is so called because she alone 
 works at the construction of the comb, collects 
 the honey, provides food for the brood, keeps 
 the hive free from anything obnoxious, and 
 defends the colony from all internal and exter- 
 nal enemies. 
 
 As to the supposed equal division of all this 
 labour in a hive, we cannot admit such to be a 
 fact. 
 
 I. Because the bees who come home laden 
 
Anatomy of the Bee. 
 
 37 
 
 with pollen and honey often mount guard, and 
 by a constant beating of their wings help to 
 purify the air of the hive. 
 
 2. In artificial swarms it is a remarkable fact 
 that, on the days following the removal of the 
 upper story of the hive, which is then placed at 
 some distance from its previous position, all the 
 bees in the hive work at the development of 
 the brood ; and it is not until after the hatching 
 takes place, and the colony is thus reinforced, 
 that the work out of doors recommences. 
 
 3. If there were bees exclusively employed in 
 working the wax, during a great part of the 
 spring there would be no work for them in a 
 hive well stocked with comb — a fact which 
 cannot be allowed, knowing their zeal and im- 
 mense activity. 
 
 4. Lastly, worker bees are all formed so as to 
 fulfil all these functions ; and it is worth notice 
 that certain hives, in summer, after receiving a 
 great number of bees laden with pollen in the 
 morning, receive hardly any in the afternoon, 
 and even at what is considered to be the best 
 gathering time, very few bees are loaded with 
 pollen. Still, we allow that the young bees are 
 exclusively occupied with the internal work of 
 
38 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 the hive for the first few days after they leave 
 the cells, a fact which is easily proved with a 
 hive of common bees into. which an Italian queen 
 has been introduced. I should add that all 
 the bees belonging to the same hive know each 
 other, and if a stranger tries to enter their hive 
 they will oppose it, and, if needs be, a pitched 
 battle will take place. Nevertheless, if the 
 strangers are laden with honey, they are gene- 
 rally welcomed. 
 
 It is for this reason that at gathering time 
 the hives can be moved about. A weak hive 
 may be put in the place of a strong one, and 
 vice versa, the work of the hives proceeding 
 without any combat taking place. 
 
 Both worker bee and queen possess a sting, 
 although the latter have seldom been known to 
 make use of it. 
 
 Bee-masters have pointed out various specifics 
 against the sting of bees. Some advise that the 
 wound be opened with a penknife, and a drop 
 of alkali inserted ; others, a drop of alkali with 
 carbolic acid, etc. As to ourselves, we have 
 always advocated, after the removal of the sting, 
 that cold water be employed, and the wound 
 scratched at the same time with the nail, to 
 remove the poison. 
 
A nato7ny of the Bee, 
 
 39 
 
 After having dried the wound, a small quan- 
 tity of wax applied to it will stop the pain, and 
 prevent swelling.* 
 
 * I have adopted this plan on various occasions, and have 
 found it invariably successful. 
 
40 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 ON THE CONTENTS OF THE HIVE. 
 
 HONEY. 
 
 Honey is the liquid matter which the bee 
 gathers by means of its proboscis or tongue, by 
 plunging it into the calyx of the flower. As we 
 shall show later on, honey is made use of in 
 forming the wax destined for the construction 
 of the comb ; but it is also used for feeding the 
 bees, and for satisfying many different wants. 
 
 WAX. 
 
 Wax is the produce of a secretion from honey. 
 Duchet, chaplain at the castle of Remauffens, in 
 the canton of Fribourg, was the first to prove 
 this fact, and to demonstrate it clearly, more 
 than a hundred years ago, in opposition to the 
 theory of Reaumur. 
 
On the Contents of the Hive. 41 
 
 It is maintained that this secretion takes 
 place by means of the rings of the abdomen ; 
 but from observations which we have made 
 while the bees have been constructing their 
 comb, we have always observed that they work 
 with their tongue or proboscis, and with their 
 mandibles.* 
 
 Wax is a substance secreted from honey ; 
 although certain bee-masters have erroneously 
 maintained, and still do maintain, that pollen 
 is unwrought wax, or at least the substance 
 which becomes so by the operation of the bees. 
 Wax is made use of in building combs, com- 
 posed of small hexagonal cells, destined accord- 
 ing to their size to the rearing of the different 
 kinds of bees which exist in a hive, and later 
 on, with the exception of those appropriated to 
 the queens, for the storing of honey or pollen. 
 
 POLLEN. 
 
 Pollen is the seminal dust which is found on 
 the stamen of the flower, and which the worker 
 
 * Wax, when secreted, exudes in thin lammae from the wax- 
 pockets situate in the abdomen, and is then manipulated by the 
 mandibles. — Trans. 
 
42 
 
 On Ratio7ial Bee-Keeping. 
 
 bees collect as they flit from one flower to 
 another. They are sometimes covered with 
 this dust when they return to the hive. As a 
 rule they carry it, when collected, in a small 
 cavity in their hind legs, to which the name of 
 pollen-basket has been given, as we mentioned 
 above. They use it mixed with honey to feed 
 the young, and mixed with wax to seal up the 
 cells when the young have been brought to 
 perfection. 
 
 Pollen, if stored in the combs in too large 
 quantities, deteriorates in the winter under the 
 influence of the damp ; but when preserved in 
 good condition, the bees use it as early as 
 January and February, for feeding the young. 
 It is necessary, therefore, to ascertain in the 
 spring and autumn whether the weight of a 
 hive is caused by the honey which it contains, or 
 by too large an accumulation of pollen. In the 
 latter case, the bee-master may possibly see his 
 colony die of hunger, imagining all the time 
 that it is amply provided for. It is only by 
 removing the comb that this fact can be ascer- 
 tained. 
 
On the Contents of the Hive. 43 
 
 PROPOLIS. 
 
 Propolis is a sticky substance like resin. 
 It is gathered from certain trees, and is made 
 use of by the bees for closing up all the small 
 crevices in the interior of their hive, and for 
 fixing the hive to the floor-board, so as effec- 
 tually to bar the entrance against any enemy 
 from without. 
 
44 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 HOW TO TEST THE TRUE VALUE OF A HIVE. 
 
 It is of the greatest importance in establishing 
 an apiary to make sure of the value of the hives 
 which are going to be placed there. 
 
 Mistaken directions are often given on this 
 head in works on bees. 
 
 A hive may be very heavy and contain a 
 considerable colony of bees in February, though 
 destined to perish soon afterwards. Never 
 mind about the weight of the hive, therefore ; 
 but make sure — 
 
 1. That there be sufficient store of food to 
 last till the flowers come out. 
 
 2. That the colony be numerous and the bees 
 lively. 
 
 3. That the comb be in good condition ; and, 
 
 above all contain brood in the 
 
 midst of the cluster of bees at the end of February 
 
How to Test the Value of a Hive. 45 
 
 or beginning of March. Unless the latter is the 
 case, the former conditions are valueless. 
 
 In any case a hive full of bees and of mode- 
 rate weight in March is worth more than a very 
 heavy hive with few bees. 
 
 As to the best time for buying stocks of bees, 
 in our climate we are inclined to recommend the 
 month of March, unless the seller will guarantee 
 them in good condition until the middle of 
 April. 
 
 Swarms can also be purchased at the swarm- 
 ing season ; but in bad years, being unable to 
 fill their hive, they run a chance of dying in the 
 winter unless they are fed. 
 
 Hives can be moved at any season of the 
 year ; but during great heat this should only be 
 done at night, care being taken to ventilate the 
 hive throughout, without allowing any exit for 
 the bees. Unless this is done, the great heat 
 produced by the confinement of the bees might 
 cause the comb to fall. 
 
 Any sudden shock may bring about a similar 
 accident, and, if a carriage is used, precaution 
 must be taken to avoid any jolting. 
 
46 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 ON NATURAL SWARMS. 
 
 Swarm is the name given to a certain number 
 of bees who leave the parent hive, or are taken 
 out of it to form a new colony. 
 
 The first kind of swarm is called a natural 
 swarm. When a natural swarm is about to 
 issue from the hive, the hive from which it 
 proceeds is filled with bees, who are generally 
 in a state of great agitation, owing to the 
 internal warmth. A swarm may issue from 
 a hive without showing any previous sign 
 by which the bee-master can foresee that the 
 event is likely to take place. Sometimes the 
 swarm issues from a hive round which the bees 
 have been hanging in clusters for several days ; 
 sometimes from one well filled with bees, but 
 before which no bee is to be seen in a state of 
 inactivity. 
 
On Natural Swarms. 
 
 47 
 
 At other times a swarm will proceed from 
 a hive the bees of which have already filled a 
 super ; at others, again, from one on which a 
 super has been placed, but which does not 
 contain even the smallest piece of comb, so 
 that none of the signs which have been laid 
 down as predicting a swarm can be depended 
 upon. 
 
 Moreover, even when a swarm is on the point 
 of issuing from the hive, it is often prevented by 
 the appearance of a few clouds or a storm, by a 
 strong wind from the south or from the north, 
 by a few drops of rain ; any sudden change, in 
 fact, in the temperature or the atmosphere will 
 prevent a swarm from leaving the hive. It is 
 therefore necessary, if the system of natural 
 swarms is adhered to, that a continual watch be 
 kept from early in May till the end of June, 
 depending on the part of the country in which 
 the hives are situated. The watch must be kept 
 from nine o’clock in the morning till three in the 
 afternoon ; moreover, this great loss of time 
 takes place when every hand is wanted in the 
 country, and sometimes even this watching will 
 prove fruitless. 
 
 It occasionally happens that after a swarm 
 
48 On Rational Bee-Keeping. 
 
 has issued from a hive, it returns to it again. 
 This may occur from two different causes ; 
 either from the queen returning of her own 
 accord, or from her being lost and the bees 
 being unable to find her. 
 
 A natural swarm is composed of the queen- 
 mother who comes from the original hive, of 
 worker bees, and of males or drones. 
 
 When a swarm has just issued from a hive, 
 in order to make it settle, some dust or sand 
 should be thrown into the midst of the bees ; or, 
 what is better, some water should be sprinkled 
 amongst them by means of a broom. This will 
 cause the bees to cluster, either on some branch 
 of a tree or shrub, or else against the trunk of a 
 tree, sometimes at the foot of a wall, and some- 
 times even on the ground. 
 
 In order to hive the bees when in this con- 
 dition, take a very clean hive ; rub its inner 
 surface with mint or thyme, or if either of these 
 should not be at hand, with the leaves of a plum 
 tree. Place your hive below the bees, and give 
 the branch a smart tap in order to make them 
 fall into the hive if possible. Cover the hive 
 up immediately with the floor-board and turn it 
 over. Then insert between the hive and its 
 
On Natural Swarms, 
 
 49 
 
 floor-board some small wooden wedges, in order 
 to facilitate the entrance of the bees. 
 
 If the bees are on the ground, place your 
 hive over them on two laths of wood, taking 
 care not to crush them ; they will then go up 
 into the hive. If they are against the trunk of 
 a tree or a wall, they must be made to fall into 
 the hive by using a broom in the way we have 
 described above. When once the queen is in 
 the hive, the bees will beat a retreat, and all 
 those of the same swarm will unite together. If 
 not, the operation must be recommenced. 
 
 When the bees of a swarm are nearly all 
 massed together in one spot, they must be hived 
 before the evening ; for, if not, there is a risk of 
 losing them altogether, since it often happens 
 that, after searching about for a suitable spot, 
 they will go off again at the moment you least 
 expect it. Sometimes even, notwithstanding all 
 precautions, it is impossible to keep the bees in 
 a hive at all, although they may have been hived 
 several times. 
 
 If the weather be bad, it is advisable to give 
 the bees some food for a few days after hiving 
 the swarm. 
 
 We are of opinion, however, that natural 
 
 £ 
 
50 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 swarming should be discouraged, not only on 
 account of the loss of time which it occasions, 
 but also because of the difficulties incident on 
 the hiving of swarms ; in a word, because the 
 hopes of the bee-master are too often disap- 
 pointed by keeping to this system. 
 
( 51 ) 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 ON ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. 
 
 SWARMS BY DIVISION. 
 
 In order to make an artificial swarm from an 
 old hive in which natural swarming has ceased, 
 and with greater reason from a hive in good 
 condition, it is only necessary to place the old 
 hive on the top of one of our hives, without any 
 board between the two. Care should be taken 
 to smear the corners of the wooden hive and 
 the projecting parts of the straw hive with 
 mortar. 
 
 In every case, it is necessary that all crevices 
 should be carefully closed up, the best kind of 
 plaster for doing this being a mixture made of 
 a third part of lime and two thirds of cow-dung ; 
 but it is necessary that the plaster should be 
 thick, and also it ought not to be allowed to 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIf 
 LIBRARY 
 
52 
 
 On Ratio7tal Bee-Keeping. 
 
 penetrate unnecessarily into the corners of the 
 wooden hive, or into the interior of the pro- 
 jecting part of the straw hive. 
 
 The bees will hasten to fill the lower hive. 
 As soon as they have done so, remove the 
 straw hive, turn it over with care, and after 
 having scraped off the plaster which clings to 
 the sides, make sure that the combs contain 
 brood, and moreover brood which is not more 
 than three days old. Unless this is the case the 
 bees will not be able to make a queen. Place 
 this hive on a floor-board, at some distance 
 from the lower hive, which remains in its old 
 place. Your swarm will thus be made; for in 
 whichever of the two hives there is no queen, 
 the bees will hasten to construct a good number 
 of royal cells, and at the end of from eleven to 
 fifteen days, the division, which before had no 
 queen, will now be provided with one. 
 
 As the bees of the hive, or rather compart- 
 ment, which has been removed to a distance, 
 will not gather any honey for several days, or 
 work in any manner away from home, they 
 should be provided with some water in a small 
 wooden trough for three or four days. This 
 trough should be put under a super placed on 
 
On Artificial Swarfns. 
 
 53 
 
 the hive, and the entrance of the hive should 
 be diminished. 
 
 If, instead of a straw skep, there happen to 
 be two wooden hives placed one above the 
 other, when both are filled — always supposing 
 that the top one has from the first con- 
 tained the colony, with their combs — the two 
 hives must be divided in the way pointed out 
 above, and the swarm is made. You can, at 
 will, leave either the upper or lower compart- 
 ment in the place which the hive originally 
 occupied. Moreover, as your hive is already 
 stocked with honey, there is no danger of the 
 swarm being unable to provide for itself. 
 
 SWARMS BY DISPLACING. 
 
 A second method of multiplying swarms, in 
 a good year, consists in taking one or more 
 combs full of brood at different stages of 
 maturity, and in placing them in an empty hive, 
 together with the bars on which they are built. 
 Remove a well-filled hive at about eleven 
 o’clock in the morning, on a fine day, in the 
 second fortnight in May, if in the plain, or 
 at a distance from the mountains ; or, up to 
 
54 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping. 
 
 the second fortnight in June, if near the moun- 
 tains. Put in its place your hive with one or 
 more combs containing brood, either with bees 
 or without ; the bees which are out gathering 
 honey, coming back from the country, will fill 
 your empty hive, they will hasten to construct 
 royal cells, and your swarm will be made. 
 
 The removal of the strong hive of bees for 
 this purpose will not prevent us, if the season 
 is favourable, from making an artificial swarm 
 a fortnight afterwards in the way previously 
 indicated. 
 
 The second method pointed out presents great 
 advantages for the multiplying of Italian bees ; 
 for combs which contain Italian brood or eggs 
 produce Italian queens, and at the end of two 
 months the common bees will have disappeared, 
 and will have been replaced by Italians. 
 
 In three years I have obtained, with a single 
 Italian queen, twenty swarms, either of pure 
 Italians or mongrels. 
 
 For the purpose of removing the comb, it is 
 best to have a small hooked knife, with two 
 blades, which is inserted from the top of the 
 hive, and used by sliding it along, either from 
 the top of the hive to the bottom, or vice versa, 
 
On Artificial Swarms, 
 
 55 
 
 either along the glass or along the sides of the 
 hive, as the case may be. The parts of the 
 comb adhering to the hive being thus detached, 
 
 the comb itself may easily be removed from 
 above ; and, when removed, it can be placed in 
 any empty hive at hand. 
 
 It is well in this, as in all other operations in 
 which it is necessary to come in contact with 
 the bees, to puff some tobacco smoke into the 
 hive before beginning operations. This may be 
 done, either by means of an ordinary pipe, or 
 with a pipe specially appropriated to this use. 
 A kind of tinder, made into a cord the thick- 
 ness of the finger, may be also used for this 
 purpose with great advantage. This is intro- 
 duced into the hive by means of a tube of tin 
 riveted together, but the tinder must first be 
 steeped in a solution of water and saltpetre, 
 and afterwards allowed to dry. By keeping this 
 cord hung up in the bee-house, a means of 
 smoking the bees when necessary is always at 
 hand for the bee-master’s use. 
 
56 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 After having made an artificial swarm by 
 division, one or more combs containing royal 
 cells, sealed up, may be removed at the end of 
 ten days ; and you will thus have queens in the 
 new swarm at the end of five days at most. It is 
 possible, also, to cut out a royal cell containing 
 an Italian queen before she is hatched, and to 
 place it in a hive in which there is no queen. 
 
 In this manner a hive of black bees can be 
 converted into a hive of Italians. It is quite 
 clear that the above-mentioned cells can only be 
 found in the hives where the queen no longer 
 remains. 
 
 According to the system of division, two facts 
 will become evident. 
 
 1. In that .part of the hive which remains in 
 its original position, the bees will continue to 
 work with activity ; they will even increase so 
 rapidly that it may be necessary to place a 
 second hive underneath, which they will some- 
 times fill in ten days or a fortnight. 
 
 2. As to the compartment of the hive which 
 has been removed, the bees will not leave it for 
 some days ; they will also decrease in numbers, 
 seeing that a certain number will return to the 
 original hive. 
 
071 Aidificial Swa7^i7is, 
 
 57 
 
 But the brood, nursed by those bees which 
 remain in the hive, will increase greatly ; the 
 cells which were filled with honey will be 
 emptied by the bees, and the queen will depost 
 her eggs in them, which in a short time will 
 produce a strong stock. 
 
 By following out this plan, I obtained in 1869, 
 from eight hives, sixteen swarms and a pro- 
 duce amounting to 200 lbs. of honey. In 1870, 
 although a very bad year, swarms being scarce, 
 sixteen hives gave me twenty-eight swarms, 
 with a produce of 100 lbs. of honey. The 
 third year, I increased the number of my hives 
 to thirty-two, of which twenty were Ligurians, 
 and the produce in honey amounted to 200 lbs. 
 weight. 
 
 We have said that our system unites simplicity 
 of management with economy of time. We are 
 able to make an artificial swarm by division 
 in ten minutes ; and are able, moreover, to do 
 so at any time of the day or even of the 
 night. 
 
 Besides the advantages afforded by our hives, 
 which have been mentioned above, we may add 
 the following : — 
 
 I. In the height of summer, when the bees 
 
5 8 Oil Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 are in full work, combs filled with honey may be 
 taken from the sides of our hive. 
 
 2. Combs filled with brood may be taken 
 from any strong hives, and may be moved into 
 weaker ones, which need strengthening. 
 
 3. If a hive is in bad condition, it is easy to 
 ascertain by taking out the bars, one by one, 
 with the bees on them, whether there is a queen 
 in the hive or not. 
 
 In the latter case, if there is no brood in the 
 hive dating from the end of March, some comb 
 containing brood at different stages of maturity 
 must be introduced without delay. If this is 
 done, the preservation of the hive will be 
 insured. 
 
 It is true that several bee-masters pretend 
 that the queen cannot be replaced, but our ex- 
 perience proves the contrary ; nevertheless, we 
 must allow' that we have never been able to 
 introduce a queen into a hive which was pro- 
 ducing only drones, without having first taken 
 advantage of some fine afternoon to brush out 
 all the bees at a short distance from the bee- 
 house ; the bees will then return to a hive put 
 in the place of their original one, and will receive 
 a new queen gladly. 
 
On Artificial Swarms. 
 
 59 
 
 4. In the case of the bees of a hive losing 
 their queen in the winter, the colony may be 
 preserved, comb and all, by placing the hive 
 either above or below another one in good 
 condition ; care, however, being first taken to 
 sprinkle a small quantity of run honey or syrup 
 over the bees, blowing in, at the same time, a 
 puff or two of tobacco smoke. By taking these 
 precautions, all fighting will usually be avoided. 
 The uniting of stocks should always take place 
 at nightfall. 
 
 5. If a hive or any portion of a hive is filled 
 with comb, but contains no bees, the best plan 
 is to remove it, when the spring comes, and 
 place it under a hive in good condition ; the bees 
 will then hasten to take advantage of it. 
 
 6. When a hive contains several combs in bad 
 condition, whether full of honey or not, they 
 can be removed ; new comb, if it is at hand, 
 being substituted. In any case, the bees will 
 always make new comb in the place of that 
 which has been removed. 
 
 7. It is possible at every season of the year to 
 remove all the comb from one hive into another. 
 Thus, an easy method is always at hand for 
 ascertaining whether the queen is in the hive 
 
6o 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keepmg, 
 
 or not ; and if deemed advisable, she can be 
 removed and replaced by another queen. 
 
 8. If we wish to Italianize a stock of black 
 bees, the hive must be cleared by removing the 
 combs with the bees on them, and placing the 
 bees, combs and all, in an empty hive, in the 
 same order as in the original one. The black 
 queen must be removed, and the combs replaced 
 in the hive from which they were first taken. 
 
 After having left the bees for one day with- 
 out a queen, the Italian queen may be intro- 
 duced in a small wire cage provided for the 
 purpose, a puff of smoke being blown into the 
 hive at the same time. 
 
 After having been left for at least one day 
 in this cage, and not before, let the queen be 
 liberated, and, generally, she will be gladly re- 
 ceived by the whole colony. I have, however, 
 had the misfortune, while performing this opera- 
 tion, to lose three queens out of six. 
 
On Artificial Swarms. 6r 
 
 9. The capacity of our hive, or rather of one 
 division of it, is the same as that of a good-sized 
 straw hive of ordinary make, and when well filled 
 contains enough to provide for the wants of a 
 strong colony during the whole winter. 
 
 10. The advantage of a system of hive with 
 bars, to which the comb may be attached, con- 
 sists in the fact that the comb can be easily re- 
 moved at any season of the year. As the bars of 
 each hive are fastened down to its upper part by 
 a piece of wire which can be removed at will, 
 the bars of the lower hive form a flooring for 
 the upper, from which the few particles of wax 
 which adhere from the comb of the upper hive 
 can be easily detached. 
 
 11. Our system, in a word, taking it alto- 
 gether, gives an opportunity to a schoolmaster, 
 or to any other person who has not all his time 
 at his disposal, for taking an interest in bee- 
 keeping, without experiencing any anxiety, even 
 although he may live at some distance from his 
 bee-garden. As an instance of this, although 
 my bee-garden was for some years at a distance 
 of about a mile from my own house, I found 
 no difficulty in looking after the wants of my 
 colonies when they required attention. 
 
62 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keepmg, 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 HONEY FROM SUPERS. 
 
 We mentioned in the first edition of this Manual 
 that we were glad to think that the barbarous 
 system of stifling bees had completely died out 
 in this locality. 
 
 We were in error in making this assertion. 
 Ignorance and prejudice have still kept up 
 the system in several localities ; but those 
 apiaries in which suffocation is practised are 
 in bad condition, and in a short time the bee- 
 masters to whom they belong will no longer 
 have it in their power to carry on this insane 
 practice, which amounts to working out the 
 ruin of their own possessions. 
 
 As a rule, with the idea of having the supers 
 well filled, the fixists put on such as are too small 
 for the requirements of the hive. After having 
 filled them, the bees hang about the entrance 
 
Honey from Supers. 
 
 63 
 
 of the hive during the time which is most 
 favourable for gathering. 
 
 The bee-master thinks it is his duty to wait 
 for the issue of a swarm which, after all, never 
 leaves the hive, and he thus loses all the honey 
 which the bees would have collected during this 
 time, and which would have been worth quite 
 as much to him as a swarm. I have sometimes 
 placed supers or wooden hives of the capacity 
 of from 30 to 32 lbs. of honey over straw hives, 
 and these supers have been filled in a fortnight 
 or three weeks, whilst the bees of those hives 
 on which I had placed a super of the capacity 
 of 8 or 10 lbs. only, were losing their time, and 
 remaining inactive for want of space to store 
 their honey. 
 
 We therefore advise our readers, unless they 
 are desirous of making artificial swarms, not 
 to be afraid of placing hives with moveable bars 
 of the capacity of about 30 lbs. over strong hives, 
 for, as a general rule, the bees will fill them. 
 
 This result may easily be obtained in a toler- 
 ably good honey season, at the foot of the 
 Jura and the Alps, and even in fertile plains 
 near the woods. 
 
 In order to drive the bees from a super. 
 
64 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 reverse it, and place an empty hive over the full 
 one ; tap gently on the latter, and the bees will 
 move up into the empty hive, which must then 
 be placed on the stock. 
 
 If the bees will not move up, it is a sure 
 proof that the queen bee is in the super con- 
 taining the honey, in which case the operation 
 must be deferred. 
 
( 65 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 ENEMIES OF BEES. 
 
 Of all the bee’s enemies, the most hurtful is the 
 moth. 
 
 This insect introduces itself into the hive at 
 dusk, and deposits its eggs, 
 which, under the influence 
 of warmth, are hatched and 
 produce worms or caterpil- 
 lars. These develop them- 
 selves with great rapidity, and bring ruin to the 
 hive they infest. 
 
 This caterpillar, at first very small and thin, 
 envelops itself in a network or cocoon of silk, 
 at the same time perforating the comb. It feeds 
 on the pollen, and attains a considerable size, 
 being about an inch in length. When once it has 
 made its appearance, the bees can only remove 
 
 F 
 
66 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 it by cutting away the comb all round, pul- 
 verizing it, and carrying it out of the hive. 
 
 This causes the holes that may be observed 
 in the comb. Sometimes these holes are so 
 numerous, especially in old hives, that the 
 combs are divided up into small pieces, and 
 consequently unfit for rearing the young. In 
 order to get rid of these moths, or at least to 
 diminish their quantity, care must be taken 
 that no old comb be left about the bee-house, 
 whether in old hives or other places, where the 
 moth can deposit its eggs. If, however, these 
 combs are hung up, and exposed to the air, 
 without touching, they will remain unharmed. 
 The best plan is to remove the combs and put 
 them in some place where they are sheltered 
 from the attacks of this insect — in a tub, for 
 instance, under which some sulphur has been 
 burnt. Care must also be taken, whenever the 
 bee-house is visited during the day, to kill any 
 moths that may be found in or about the hives. 
 No crevice should be left in which any eggs can 
 be deposited. 
 
 When a hive is fairly attacked by moth, it 
 becomes absolutely necessary to remove all the 
 parts infested. We have seen some hives, which 
 
Enemies of Bees. 
 
 67 
 
 were so attacked, entirely freed from this insect 
 by the means indicated. 
 
 The floor-board should also be carefully 
 cleaned or changed, in order to insure its being 
 perfectly free from moth. If, however, the comb 
 be very seriously attacked, so that the colony 
 is observed to diminish visibly, it is probable 
 that the queen is dead. 
 
 In this case, the only course will be to unite 
 the bees to those of another hive, taking care to 
 sprinkle them with honey or syrup, flnishing up 
 with a good puflf of smoke. 
 
 2. Mice. — In order to avoid the introduction 
 of mice into the hives, care must be taken to 
 diminish the size of the entrance during the 
 winter, in the way mentioned above ; for a hive 
 taken possession of by mice in winter may 
 possibly not only be damaged, but even entirely 
 destroyed. 
 
 3. The death’s-head moth is also very partial 
 to honey. We have seen it enter a hive full 
 of bees, and come out again after having well 
 refreshed itself at the expense of the bees and 
 their master. We have also found some inside 
 the hives, who had paid dearly for their audacity 
 by their lives. 
 
68 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 We do not know any specific against the 
 ravages of this insect ; for, at the time it makes 
 its inroads, it is impossible so to diminish the 
 entrance of the hive as absolutely to prevent its 
 attacks. Moreover, it never causes the destruc- 
 tion of a colony. 
 
 4. As to birds, we have never remarked 
 that they in any way hurt the bees when in the 
 hive, and there is no means of preventing them 
 from catching the bees, as they sometimes do, 
 when the latter leave the hive in search of honey. 
 
 We put aside the question of lizards, toads, 
 and other insects which rarely make their 
 appearance. They do not cause so much harm 
 as some bee-masters maintain. 
 
 5. As to ants, the best way to get rid of 
 them is to place the floor-boards of the hives on 
 a shelf formed by the upper angles of two 
 squared joists running parallel to each other, 
 from end to end of the bee-house, and so to 
 plaster the hives all round that there is no 
 possibility of their introducing themselves ex- 
 cept by the usual entrance. 
 
 They may also be crushed — this being per- 
 haps the best way of scaring those who may 
 come after ; or they may be destroyed by 
 
Enemies of Bees, 
 
 69 
 
 fly-paper pounded in honey and water, and 
 placed in the ground, covered up in such a way 
 that the bees cannot get at it. The ants will 
 go to it from all quarters and meet their death 
 there. 
 
 6. Lastly, spiders trouble the bees by spin- 
 ning their webs in all directions. They should 
 be carefully destroyed, and the bee-house should 
 be kept in a state of perfect cleanliness. 
 
70 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping. 
 
 CHAPTER XIL 
 
 DISEASES OF BEES-DEATH OF THE QUEEN- 
 STEPS TO BE TAKEN IN THE LATTER CASE. 
 
 As we have mentioned before, bees are some- 
 times attacked with dysentery, both in winter 
 and spring. It has been maintained that the 
 cause of this complaint is the scarcity of pollen. 
 This, however, is a mistake, seeing that many 
 hives which contain plenty of pollen are thus 
 attacked. It is really caused by the internal 
 dampness of a hive, or by vitiated atmosphere. 
 
 We have remarked that the best means of 
 avoiding this complaint is to ventilate the hive, 
 and we will add that it is important that the 
 bees should be allowed free exit at all times. 
 They should also be fed with syrup made from 
 sugar and common French wine. This, however, 
 should only be given in the spring, for in winter 
 
Diseases of Bees, etc. 
 
 71 
 
 it will tempt them from their hive, and many 
 may thus be lost. 
 
 As to the parasites which sometimes attach 
 themselves to the thorax of the bee, we cannot 
 tell what causes them. We have noticed them 
 not only in old hives in bad condition, to which 
 their presence is attributed by some bee-masters, 
 but also amongst fresh swarms and in new 
 hives.^ 
 
 In any case, there is no need to feel any 
 anxiety with regard to this insect, as long as 
 the hive is in good condition. 
 
 Insect powders, which are so much recom- 
 mended, are only, to my mind, useful for persons 
 who have plenty of time to waste. 
 
 Sometimes, towards the month of May, bees 
 are subject to small excrescences on their heads, 
 like little fleshy horns, of the colour of pollen. 
 We have never been able to prove that these 
 
 * In August, 1876, on examining one of my hives, I found 
 the queen covered with these parasites, there being no less than 
 seventy on her body and head. I removed them, and replaced 
 her in the hive. She appeared to be in perfect health, and the 
 same hive is this year in a most flourishing condition. 
 
 N.B. — It appears as if the bees, when once attacked, are 
 unable to free themselves from these insects, either by their own 
 exertions or by the help of their companions. 
 
72 
 
 071 Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 growths constitute a disease, and they invariably 
 disappear by the end of July. 
 
 As to foul brood, we have never had an 
 opportunity of testing this disease, for which 
 no remedy is known. Dzierzon communicated 
 it to his apiary by feeding the bees with strange 
 honey, and lost in one year 360 hives. 
 
 Lastly, want of judicious feeding brings de- 
 struction every year to a great number of hives 
 — a hint to be taken by stingy or negligent 
 bee-masters. 
 
 The greatest misfortune that can happen to a 
 hive is the loss of the queen bee. As soon as 
 she dies, the bees of the hive become extremely 
 disconcerted, and the whole colony is in com- 
 motion. This state of things, after lasting for 
 a day or two, is followed by the most complete 
 demoralization. There is much noise in the 
 interior of the hive, yet few bees go out to gather 
 honey ; and whilst other colonies are bringing 
 in abundant provisions, the hive which has been 
 deprived of its queen falls into a kind of be- 
 wilderment. If there is no brood left, from 
 which a queen may be reared, the hive is very 
 soon taken possession of by robber bees, and 
 given up to pillage ; and even if this does not 
 
Diseases of Bees, etc. 
 
 73 
 
 happen, the mortality amongst these insects is 
 so great, that during the summer, the strongest 
 and most prosperous hive will be completely 
 depopulated in less than a month. 
 
 Excepting in the winter, the season when the 
 bees leave the hive but little, the average life of 
 a worker does not exceed six weeks. It ought 
 not, therefore, to be a matter of astonishment 
 that a single queen bee is reckoned to lay 50,000 
 eggs a year ; for, taking into account the 
 number of times the eggs are laid, and the 
 number of cells in which they are deposited, 
 a still higher figure will be reached. 
 
 As we have already said, if the loss of the 
 queen takes place at a season when there are 
 drones in the hives, or when drones are in process 
 of being hatched, take a piece of comb containing 
 brood at different stages of maturity, and having 
 in it eggs not yet brought to perfection; place 
 this in the hive and the colony will be preserved. 
 
 If, on the other hand, the loss of the queen 
 takes place at a period when there is no brood 
 in the hives, the only way to save the stock is 
 by uniting it to another. 
 
 In order to effect this, a small quantity of 
 syrup, or liquid honey, as we have indicated 
 
74 On Rational Bee-Keeping. 
 
 above, should be poured over the bees of the 
 queenless stock, which should then be placed 
 on the top of a hive containing a queen, a 
 puff of smoke being at the same time blown 
 into the lower hive. By adopting this plan, 
 the two colonies will become united without any 
 fighting taking place. 
 
 If possible, at the time a queenless stock is 
 being robbed, let it be noticed from which hive 
 the robbers come, and let these two hives be 
 joined together, always remembering to place 
 the queenless hive on the top, and taking the 
 precautions mentioned above. 
 
( 75 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 FOOD FOR BEES. 
 
 As to food, if honey cannot be given, the best 
 substitute is syrup,, made either from brown 
 sugar or pounded loaf sugar. Mix this with a 
 sufficient quantity of water, and boil it for ten 
 minutes. Make quite sure that the liquid is 
 turned into syrup, by pouring a few drops into a 
 cold plate. 
 
 This syrup is very good for the nourishment 
 of bees, and even of the brood. We have at 
 times fed bees with sugar on which cold water 
 has been poured, so as to make it of the con- 
 sistency of syrup ; but if the bees store this in 
 their cells, it becomes rapidly crystallized, owing 
 to the evaporation of the water ; and hence the 
 disadvantage of this kind of food. 
 
 As to the mixture of half a glass of wine (or 
 
76 On Ratio7ial Bee-Keeping, 
 
 vinegar) to each bottle of syrup, of which some 
 bee-masters make use, we do not recommend it, 
 except in the spring, when the bees have begun 
 work. 
 
 The best plan to adopt for feeding is to pour 
 the syrup into some empty comb, or else into a , 
 small wooden trough, an inch wide, the third of 
 an inch deep, by four or five inches in length. 
 This should be placed on the top of the hive, 
 and covered with a super carefully closed on all 
 sides, so that no robber may be able to effect an 
 entrance. As a rule, it is always better to feed 
 from the top of the hive; the bees then enjoy 
 what is given them in peace. 
 
 In the case of bar hives, let the empty comb 
 be removed and filled on each side. 
 
 Three bars of comb in one of our hives will 
 absorb about two pints of syrup. 
 
( 77 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 CARE TO BE GIVEN TO BEES AT DIFFERENT 
 SEASONS OF THE YEAR. 
 
 When bees begin to leave their hives with 
 the first warmth of spring, great care should be 
 taken not in any way to hinder their egress, as 
 at this time of the year they require to be in the 
 open air, in order to get rid of the evacuations 
 which would otherwise accumulate either on the 
 floor-board or sides of the hives. Matters would 
 become worse if they were confined against 
 their will. Their excitem^ent would become 
 excessive, and the internal warmth would, by 
 this very fact, increase the dampness deposited 
 on the sides of the hive and on the combs. At 
 their first exit, the bees would cover the exterior 
 of the hives with a yellow excrement, and pos- 
 sibly some hives would perish from diarrhoea, 
 
78 07 t Rational Bee-Keepmg. 
 
 dysentery, or from other accompanying causes, 
 such, for instance, as the death of the queen. 
 
 In winter the base of the hives should be 
 raised in such a manner that there may be a 
 free circulation of air, be it ever so little. 
 Moreover, the colonies would be none the 
 worse, and the comb would be preserved in 
 better condition, if a slight ventilation were 
 allowed in the upper part of the hives. 
 
 Care, however, must be taken that the opening 
 made be too small to allow a bee to get through, 
 otherwise the hive is liable to be exposed to 
 robbers. It would be well, under these circum- 
 stances, to put some covering over the hive — old 
 clothes, bits of carpet or cloth, or some such 
 protection ; and when there is any brood in the 
 hive, the top should be well closed, warmth 
 being very necessary in order to bring the young 
 to perfection. 
 
 Care must also be taken, at the beginning of 
 spring as well as in the winter, to keep the 
 entrance of the hive very narrow — about an inch 
 wide, with height sufficient to allow a bee to 
 pass under. By these means, if the hive is 
 weak, but contains a queen, it will always be 
 able to defend itself against robbers. These 
 
Care to be given to Bees. 
 
 79 
 
 entrances should be kept small, until it is noticed 
 that the bees are returning to their hives loaded 
 with honey, and in consequence require an open- 
 ing both wider and higher, to enable them to 
 carry on the work of their respective colonies. 
 
 At the height of the gathering season the in- 
 ternal warmth of a hive, especially when there 
 is a numerous colony, is often so great* that the 
 bees leave off working in the upper part, and thus 
 lose valuable time. In this case, a second en- 
 trance should be opened from the lower hive ; 
 the work will then continue with great activity. 
 
 As soon as one hive or section of a hive is 
 filled with bees, brood, and honey, place a second 
 underneath ; and when these two are filled, they 
 may either be separated and an artificial swarm 
 made, or else a third may be placed below them. 
 
 If the upper hive happens to be old, and it 
 is thought best to take the honey, remove it as 
 soon as it is full, and drain out the honey by 
 means of the extractor. If, however, both the 
 upper and lower hive are in good condition and 
 that swarms are not an object, but rather the 
 possession of virgin honey, place a third hive 
 
 Ilf Fahr. 
 
8o On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 above the other two. This will answer the pur- 
 pose of a super, and the contents may be dis- 
 posed of at the end of the season. 
 
 In placing supers on our hive, always leave 
 on the crown-board, which should be provided 
 with two slits cut to correspond with the spaces 
 between the bars of the hive. 
 
 When robber bees attack a hive and meet 
 with resistance from its occupants, all the hives 
 in the apiary are at times in commotion ; even 
 the strongest are obliged to put themselves on 
 the defensive. Sometimes also, the whole front 
 of the hive will be covered with bees who come 
 out to protect the entrance. When this takes 
 place, do not hesitate to diminish the entrance 
 of weak hives, which require all their strength 
 for work both inside the hive and out. This is 
 the only means of bringing about a successful 
 defence. 
 
 When an artificial swarm has been made, 
 akvays diminish the entrance of the hive which 
 has been re^noved^ and provide the bees with 
 water placed in a super over the hive. If the 
 former precaution be omitted, the bees, who are 
 occupied exclusively with work inside the hive, 
 might be attacked without having any means 
 
Care to be given to Bees, 
 
 8i 
 
 of resistance. As soon, however, as the colony 
 begins to go abroad again in search of honey, 
 the entrance should be widened according to 
 the wants of the hive. 
 
 When honey has been removed from a bar 
 hive, care should be taken to fasten down the 
 crown-board hermetically, and not to leave any 
 pieces of honey about on the top, by which 
 robber bees may be attracted. 
 
 If a super or a hive full of honey be taken, 
 the stock hive should be carefully covered up, 
 so that no strange bee can effect an entrance. 
 
 In order to induce the bees to leave a super 
 full of honey, which has just been taken, place 
 it in some isolated position where the bees are 
 not likely to be attacked by cold ; then rap on 
 it sharply with the hand, and the bees will all 
 return to the apiary. 
 
 If, however, they cannot be induced to leave 
 by these means, the super should be replaced 
 on the stock hive, for it is probable that, under 
 these circumstances, the queen bee has remained 
 in it. She should be allowed to go back into 
 the stock hive, and the operation may be again 
 repeated with every probability of a success- 
 ful result. As soon as the bees have almost 
 
 G 
 
82 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping. 
 
 all left the super, carry it into a room, and place 
 it in front of a window partly open. Those 
 bees which still remain in the super will soon 
 fly out and join their companions. 
 
 As soon as the swarming and gathering 
 seasons are over, the entrances to hives should 
 be made smaller, as we have noticed before, in 
 order to avoid the inroads of robber bees. 
 
 If a hive has lost its queen in summer and 
 before the disappearance of the drones^ and if it 
 can be ascertained with certainty that the hive 
 contains no more brood, take a piece of comb 
 full of brood out of another hive, place it in 
 the middle of the queenless hive, and in a fort- 
 night a queen will be hatched out. Moreover, 
 from the very moment of the introduction of 
 the brood, the bees will resume the activity 
 which they had lost for the time, unless indeed 
 there already exists in the hive a queen who has 
 not been impregnated early enough, and who 
 only produces drones. In this case, the bees 
 will not make new queens from the brood which 
 has been introduced, and the hive will infallibly 
 perish. If, however, the old queen be removed, 
 they will immediately set to work to make 
 royal cells over the eggs deposited in those of 
 
Care to be given to Bees. 
 
 83 
 
 workers. These new cells, together with the 
 special food on which the brood is fed, will 
 convert what would have been an ordinary 
 worker bee into a queen. 
 
 If a worker bee begins to deposit eggs in the 
 cells, which often happens in a hive where there 
 is no queen, all the bees should be brushed into 
 an empty hive at a distance of fifty paces from 
 the bee-house. They will return to the hive 
 which has been put in the place of the one which 
 was removed, and will at once receive the queen 
 presented to them, or will make a new queen if 
 they are provided with brood not more than 
 four days old. 
 
 If, in the autumn or spring, it is noticed that 
 bees hitherto industrious have ceased from work- 
 ing, it is a sure sign that the queen is no longer 
 there. 
 
 In this case, to prevent the robbing of the 
 hive and the consequent loss of the colony, the 
 weakest stock in which there is a queen should 
 be placed either above or below the hive. The 
 colony will then continue to work with redoubled 
 vigour. We repeat, however, for the third time, 
 that in a case of this kind it is necessary to 
 sprinkle some honey or syrup over the bees in 
 
84 On Ratio 7 ial Bee-Keepmg, 
 
 the upper hive, and to blow a few puffs of 
 smoke into the lower. 
 
 An operation of this kind should, as much as 
 possible, be undertaken towards evening. 
 
 In winter, when all work in the hives has 
 ceased, a small opening may safely be left in the 
 top of the hives, in order to allow the escape of 
 any exhalations from within. This should be 
 more especially attended to when the ground is 
 covered with snow, as it is often expedient at 
 such a time to close the entrances altogether, in 
 order to prevent the bees from leaving the hive 
 and thereby perishing. This method of con- 
 finement, however, must be used with great 
 moderation. 
 
 At the beginning of winter, we advise strongly 
 that two, or even three, weak stocks should be 
 joined together to make one strong one, care 
 being taken to remove the queens from the 
 comb before brushing the bees into the hive to 
 which they are to be united. 
 
 By these means the fighting which would 
 otherwise take place amongst the rival queens 
 is avoided. If, at the same time, the bees are all 
 sprinkled with syrup, and a puff or two of smoke 
 blown amongst them, they will live together in 
 
85 
 
 Cmx to be given to Bees. 
 
 good harmony. It is advisable to effect this 
 union at nightfall. 
 
 If, however, the bee-master is anxious to 
 preserve hives in which neither honey nor bees 
 abound, he should place them in a room. If the 
 hive is one on improved principles, the empty 
 comb should be taken out and filled with syrup 
 poured into the cells. The comb should then be 
 returned to the hive. 
 
 If the hive be made on the old principle, the 
 syrup may either be poured into a small wooden 
 trough, or else into some empty comb. This 
 should be placed at the top of the hive, under a 
 super or hive of some kind. 
 
 By adopting this method, we have preserved 
 many weak stocks at a small cost compared to 
 the value of the hive so treated. 
 
 The preservation of weak stocks may prove 
 extremely useful in the spring ; for even the 
 most populous colonies are liable to lose their queens. 
 In this case, the strongest hive may be preserved 
 by joining it to a feeble stock in which the quee7t 
 is in existence. 
 
 If your small stocks happen to be Ligurian, 
 and the queen in a strong hive of black bees 
 has died, by joining the small Italian swarm 
 
86 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 to the large swarm of black bees, a strong hive 
 of Italians will, in a short time, be the result, 
 and from the hive thus formed, swarms may 
 afterwards be made.^ Italians, moreover, or a 
 cross breed, are far more active than the black 
 bees, and their produce is very nearly double. 
 
 In visiting hives, whether in autumn, during 
 the second fortnight of October, or in spring, 
 during the second fortnight of February, or the 
 first fortnight of March, care should be taken not 
 to abuse the right of possession by depriving 
 the bees of too much honey ; for it is necessary 
 that a hive, to be in good condition, should 
 contain at least 20 lbs. of honey at the end 
 of October — that is to say, in ordinary seasons. 
 In the last three years, 1871, 1872, and 1873, 
 this quantity has not been sufficient to provide 
 for the wants of strong stocks. 
 
 If a hive is in good condition in the spring, 
 and still contains honey, that only which is 
 
 * A swarm made in 1869, from a single piece of comb contain- 
 ing Italian brood, and put at eleven o’clock a.m. in the place of 
 a hive of black bees, gave me in 1870 a fine swarm and 20 lbs. 
 of honey. The same hive gave me in 1871 two strong swarms 
 and 50 lbs. of honey. The swarm of 1870 produced 30 lbs. of 
 honey. 
 
Care to be given to Bees, 
 
 87 
 
 absolutely superfluous should be taken, otherwise 
 the existence of the hive may be endangered 
 by bad weather during the latter part of that 
 season. 
 
 When taking honey from the hives, it should 
 be extracted from those combs which are 
 in bad condition and unfit for the rearing of 
 brood, whether perforated by the bees in order 
 to remove the moth, or hardened by age, or 
 attacked with mildew. 
 
 This latter contingency, however, should never 
 occur, as mildew may always be prevented by 
 adhering to the rules which have already been 
 given above. 
 
88 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 EXTRACTION OF THE HONEY— DESCRIPTION 
 OF THE EXTRACTOR. 
 
 The most favourable time for depriving a hive 
 of its honey is that at which the h^es are able 
 to replace it. This is also the time when honey 
 is in its most liquid state, and when the warmth 
 facilitates its separation from the comb by means 
 of the extractor. 
 
 When you wish to take honey from a hive, 
 after having removed the bees, choose that 
 comb which has least pollen in it — a fact which 
 can be ascertained by holding it up to the 
 light; the comb must then be placed on a 
 closely platted wicker-basket, or on a sieve, and 
 the back of a knife or the finger should then 
 be passed over on each side without crushing 
 it. It should then be placed in the extractor, 
 and the honey, which will flow into the jar 
 
Description of the Extractor. 89 
 
 placed underneath to receive it, will be of the 
 finest quality. With regard to comb containing 
 pollen, pass the back of a knife along each 
 side of it in the way mentioned above, taking 
 care not to crush the pollen, and proceed as in 
 the former case. Your honey will still be of a 
 good quality, although inferior to the first. 
 
 Put what remains of the comb into some kind 
 of jar, which must be placed in the oven after 
 the bread has been taken out. The honey 
 which will be obtained by these means, although 
 of inferior quality, may be employed as food 
 for weak hives during the winter. 
 
 THE EXTRACTOR. 
 
 In order to separate the best of the honey 
 from the comb, an extractor should be used. 
 This method has the advantage of preserving 
 the comb, which can afterwards be replaced in 
 the hive, and, at the same time, of preventing 
 the bitter taste of the pollen from being com- 
 municated to the honey. 
 
 The honey thus extracted from old comb, will 
 be found to be of as good and fine a quality as 
 that extracted from virgin comb. 
 
90 
 
 071 Ratiorial Bee-Kecpmg. 
 
 The Schmiedl extractor is the one we have 
 invariably used, and it seems to us the best. 
 
 It is thus composed : (i) a tub for receiving 
 the honey ; and (2) the extractor proper. 
 
 K 
 
 I. The tub, made of wood or zinc, should 
 be about sixteen inches in height from the 
 bottom to the upper rim, inside measurement. 
 
Description of the Extractor, 9 1 
 
 The diameter at the top of the tub should be 
 about twenty-six inches, spreading out to about 
 thirty at its base. One of the staves of the tub, 
 on each side of it, M M, should be allowed to 
 project about eight inches above the upper rim. 
 To the uprights thus formed a cross piece 
 
 should be attached, in the centre of which the 
 upper axis of the extractor revolves, K. 
 
 The cross-bar above mentioned should be 
 fixed to the uprights by means of an iron hook 
 and eye at each end ; it can thus be removed 
 and the extractor released at will. 
 
 The bottom of the tub should be convex, so 
 as to facilitate the draining off of the honey. 
 
92 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping. 
 
 It should also be provided with a tap, from which 
 the honey may be drawn off into the jars in 
 which it is intended to be kept. 
 
 2. The extractor ; composed of a board about 
 eighteen inches square, and about an inch in 
 thickness. At each corner of this board is fixed 
 an upright, made of hard wood, an inch square, 
 and eight inches in height, I. 
 
 These uprights should have the outer corners 
 rounded, and should be fixed very firmly to the 
 angles of the board. In the centre of this board 
 there is a square wooden axis, A A, which passes 
 through it to the distance of about an inch 
 below. 
 
 This projecting piece is provided with a fer- 
 rule, in the centre of which is a pin, revolving 
 in a nut fixed in the centre of the tub. 
 
 This axis will be of the same height as the 
 uprights on each side of the tub, M M ; and its 
 upper part, K, being arranged in the same way as 
 the lower, will be held firmly in its place by the 
 cross-bar, T T, placed over the two uprights. 
 
 In order to keep the four uprights of the 
 extractor in their proper position, bind them 
 together at the top by means of four iron rods 
 about three-quarters of an inch in thickness. 
 
Description of the Extractor. 93 
 
 Round these uprights, from the top down- 
 wards, some thin, but strong, twine should be 
 wound, a small space being allowed between 
 each row. This string serves to hold the comb 
 in its place, which otherwise would be thrown 
 out by the centrifugal force ; at the same time 
 it allows sufficient space for the honey to pass 
 through. 
 
 In order to keep this twine in its place, 
 small pins should be driven into the up- 
 rights. They should be close to one another, 
 and should project as little as possible from the 
 woodwork. 
 
 Galvanized netting may be used as a sub- 
 stitute for the twine, and if this is nailed to 
 the uprights, there will be no need to bind them 
 together with the rods mentioned above. In 
 the upper part of the axis, just below the cross- 
 bar, there should be a groove, or fixed wheel, 
 about three and a half inches in diameter. 
 
 On the edge of the tub, at an equal distance 
 between the two uprights, a piece of wood 
 should be solidly fixed, projecting about two 
 inches above the rim. On this revolves a 
 wheel about one foot in diameter, connected 
 with the groove in the axis by a strong cord. 
 
94 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 An upright handle is placed upon this wheel, 
 at a distance of about two inches from the edge 
 of it. By turning this handle the extractor is 
 set in motion, and a considerable centrifugal 
 force obtained, the honey being flung by the 
 motion against the sides of the tub. 
 
 Two minutes will suffice for extracting the 
 honey from one side of the comb, which should 
 then be reversed, and the operation repeated. 
 
 The section of the extractor, page 90, shows 
 an incomplete drawing ; for this reason, we have 
 placed opposite to it a front view of the ex- 
 tractor, page 91. 
 
 This latter, however, does not show the rods 
 which bind together the four uprights, and serve 
 to keep the comb in a vertical position. 
 
 Lastly, we should add that, before placing the 
 comb in the extractor, the thin coating of wax 
 
 with which the honey is sealed, should be re- 
 moved with a knife made for the purpose.^ 
 
 * This knife, in form of a trowel, has a very thin blade, in 
 width and length like an ordinary table-knife (see figure). 
 
Description of the Extractor, 
 
 95 
 
 The comb, when emptied of the honey, can 
 immediately be restored to the hives ; the bees 
 will thus find new storehouses ready for them, 
 which they will hasten to fill afresh. 
 
 As to super honey which is to be kept in 
 the comb, put it in a cool and dry place in the 
 receptacle in which it has been made, and in the 
 same position as when on the hive. By herme- 
 tically sealing every opening, the honey will 
 be preserved till the spring without becoming 
 candied. 
 
96 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 CHAPTER XVL 
 
 ON THE MANUFACTURE OF WAX. 
 
 Put some small, well-washed pebbles into a 
 copper pot (for iron affects the colour of the 
 wax), and place your comb in a bag made of 
 fine canvas, tightly closed ; put this into the 
 copper pot filled with water, taking care that 
 the bag be always immersed. Let it remain on 
 a slow fire until it begins to simmer. The wax 
 in melting will collect on the top. If there is 
 still some pollen amongst it, warm it up gently 
 a second time, and let it cool. The refuse, 
 which will be found under the cake of wax, 
 ought to be removed with a knife ; the wax 
 will then be in a fit state for the market. 
 What remains should be melted up with some 
 more wax on another occasion, so that none of 
 the particles which it contains may be wasted. 
 
On the Mamifachire of Wax. 97 
 
 ANOTHER METHOD. 
 
 After putting your comb in a sieve or in a 
 wicker-basket placed on a vessel half full of 
 water, put it in the oven after the bread has 
 been taken out. The wax falling through into 
 
 the water will float on the top. This last 
 method gives no trouble, but is less productive. 
 Lastly, in order to work on a large scale, it is 
 
 H 
 
98 
 
 On Rational Bee-Keeping, 
 
 a good plan to make use of a press, which, 
 when working, is placed in a vessel of boiling 
 water, and kept up to a temperature of a hun- 
 dred degrees. 
 
 The combs are placed in this machine and 
 gradually. pressed down. The wax rises to the 
 top, and you then proceed in the same way as 
 we have mentioned before. (See illustration on 
 preceding page.) 
 
Conclusion. 
 
 99 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 In this Manual we have endeavoured to put 
 bee-keeping within the reach of all, by recom- 
 mending simpleness of management, and by 
 leaving full liberty of action to the bee-master, 
 who may be kept at a distance from a bee- 
 garden by the occupations of daily life. 
 
 If we have limited ourselves to giving infor- 
 mation to our readers only on those points of 
 which we are convinced by experience, the 
 reason is that we have thought that a practical 
 Manual should only contain notions within the 
 reach of all, and practicable by all. 
 
 We hope to have accomplished this object, 
 and to have clearly pointed out that any one 
 who has a small place at his disposal, can take 
 advantage of it for keeping bees with a profit- 
 able result ; and by these means increase his 
 
lOO On Ratio7ial Bee-Kecpmg, 
 
 well-being, without in any way interfering with 
 that of his fellow-creatures. 
 
 We shall be happy if we have obtained such 
 a result, and if, moreover, we may be the 
 means of persuading some bee-masters in our 
 districts of the advantage to be derived from 
 leaving the beaten track in which they perse- 
 vere, either by remodelling their apiaries or by 
 increasing them, and thus assuring to them- 
 selves a more certain produce, with an easier 
 method of obtaining it. 
 
 Finally, we should be glad if we could induce 
 young people to take an interest in bee-keeping. 
 Independently of the produce which they might 
 obtain, they would, no doubt, by observing in 
 their leisure moments the habits and work of the 
 bees, be astonished to find in their small com- 
 munities such regularity of work, such internal 
 order, such devotion, courage, far-sightedness, 
 and wisdom, as characterize these insects. This 
 study, like that of every study of nature, will 
 raise their thoughts ; will procure for them pure 
 delights ; and will, no doubt, bring them to 
 admire and adore the wisdom of the Creator. 
 They will, in fact, understand that the great- 
 ness of God, and His eternal wisdom, show 
 
Conclusion, 
 
 lOI 
 
 themselves in small things, even more clearly, 
 perhaps, than in greater ones ; and they will be 
 able to repeat with one of our best poets, and 
 with an accent of conviction — 
 
 “ C’est dans un faible objet, imperceptible ouvrage, 
 
 Que I’art de I’ouvrier me frappe davantage.’’ 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE— ITS ADVAN- 
 TAGES AND ACCLIMATIZATION. 
 
 Description of the Italian or Ligurian Bee — The manner of in- 
 troducing strange Queens into a Hive, and hence of intro- 
 ducing Italian Queens — Means of preserving a pure Breed, 
 
 Italian bees, called also Ligurians, are natives of 
 countries on the other side of the Alps. These bees 
 have the same organization as those found on this 
 side of the Alps, with this difference only — that the two 
 first rings of the abdomen are either of a yellowish 
 brown or straw colour, depending on the locality. 
 
 They are also longer in the body than the bees of 
 our country, and they have the great advantage, 
 owing to the length of their tongue, of being able 
 to gather honey from the calyx of flowers, to which 
 the other bees cannot reach. 
 
 The Alps, with their eternal snows, have been a 
 hindrance to the crossing of the breed, so that it is 
 only in the last few years that they have been intro- 
 
Appendix. 103 
 
 duced into Germany, France, and even into America. 
 Dzierzon, the father of rational apiculture, contributed 
 much to their introduction into Germany; and it seems 
 that they are kept very generally in German Switzer- 
 land, to judge from the exhibition at Weinfelden, 
 where, out of thirty or more stocks which were ex- 
 hibited, two only consisted of ordinary bees. 
 
 A queen with a few bees, sent by post, during the 
 months of March, April, May, or June, is sufficient to 
 produce a pure-bred colony of Italians from which 
 a cross with the common bees may easily be obtained. 
 It often happens that, by means of crossing, a hive 
 of common bees becomes completely Italianized ; and 
 if, as is sometimes the case, the Italian bees lose 
 their colour, they nevertheless retain their character- 
 istic properties. 
 
 Are these Italians preferable to the common bees ? 
 
 This is a question which is often asked. 
 
 Although for many years German bee-keepers have 
 with reason answered this question in the affirmative, 
 some French bee-keepers, such as M. Hamet and 
 more especially the Abbe Collin, considered it, only 
 two years ago, a matter of doubt whether this is the 
 case. 
 
 As to myself, I have already, on a former occasion, 
 given my solution of the question. But seeing that 
 such bee-masters as MM. Hamet and Collin have 
 raised doubts on the point, I have thought it right 
 to pursue my observations more carefully, and this 
 has resulted in my pronouncing without any hesi- 
 
104 
 
 A ppendix. 
 
 tation in favour of the Italians. Nevertheless, the 
 following circumstance is to their disadvantage — 
 namely, that the queen mother of the pure Italian 
 breed has a shorter term of life than a black queen or 
 a queen of a mixed breed. This is an observation 
 which I have often made, and in which several bee- 
 masters in German Switzerland have concurred with 
 me. 
 
 This may be attributed to the fact that the Italian 
 queen is much more fertile than the ordinary queen ; 
 nevertheless, the Italian queen produced in our 
 country has a longer life than the ordinary Italian. 
 The same is the case with queens of a mixed breed. 
 The latter have the advantage of being very fertile, 
 and of producing large colonies in a short space of 
 time — a circumstance which conduces to early and 
 numerous swarming. 
 
 This has been by some considered a defect. It is, 
 on the other hand, an immense advantage, seeing that 
 the prosperity of a hive, as well as its produce, de- 
 pends on the strength of the stock. 
 
 It is true that, by keeping to an unvarying system of 
 small straw hives on the old principle, it is difficult to 
 avoid the inconvenience of having a multiplicity of 
 swarms ; but in the case of hives with moveable bars, 
 by increasing the capacity of the hive in good time, 
 natural swarming is avoided to a great extent, and 
 can be regulated at the will of the bee-master. In 
 1873 and 1874, I had hives of cross-bred Italian bees 
 wliich in the month of June had only one story on 
 
Appeitdix. 
 
 105 
 
 them. I then added three, making four stories in all. 
 The three lower ones were filled, and the fourth 
 already contained ten pounds of honey without a 
 swarm having issued from the stock hive. 
 
 Independently of the productiveness of the queen, 
 the prosperity of Italian colonies is attributable to 
 other causes. I have already pointed out one \ namely, 
 the length of the tongue, which allows them to gather 
 honey from flowers when other bees can get none. 
 
 Besides this, the Italian bee leaves the hive earlier 
 in the morning than the common bee, and leaves off 
 working later at night, in consequence of which the 
 former is out at hours when the influence of the dew 
 is felt — a circumstance which allows her to collect 
 more honey. 
 
 Moreover, the Italian bee is more direct in her 
 flight. The bees of the country fly about in front of 
 the hive before entering it, whilst Italian or cross- 
 bred bees enter immediately. 
 
 As to the calumnies which are circulated about this 
 race, we are quite ready to endeavour to efface them, 
 speaking from our own experience. 
 
 It is said that they rob their neighbours to a greater 
 extent than the common bee ! I must own, after 
 many years’ experience, that I have never known the 
 robbing of a hive to be begun by Italian bees, but nearly 
 always by the bees of the country; still, the contest 
 once begun, the Italian bees, like all others of their 
 species, take part in dividing the spoils. In return, 
 they defend themselves against robber bees with 
 greater vigour. 
 
io6 
 
 Appendix, 
 
 I have heard it said that they are more spiteful 
 and less easy to manage than common bees. My 
 experience has been quite the contrary. They are, it 
 is true, more active and, above all, more sensitive to 
 anything which interferes with them ; but it is quite 
 sufficient for the bee-master to blow a puff of smoke 
 into the hive as a warning, in order to empty all the 
 bees out of it, without having to defend himself 
 against their stings. 
 
 To sum up : Italian bees are more beautiful, more 
 fertile, more active, and consequently more productive 
 than the common bees, and we cannot advise their 
 culture too strongly. It is enough to introduce an 
 Italian in the place of a common queen, and, either in 
 the spring or summer, in the course of six weeks after 
 her introduction, the hive will be entirely transformed. 
 
 In order to raise pure-bred Italian queens, notice 
 should be taken the previous year which Italian 
 colonies produce the finest drones. These should be 
 strengthened, early in the spring, by the introduction 
 of comb filled with worker brood taken from stocks 
 of common bees. When these last become well 
 populated with bees, which should be the case in 
 April, introduce into each of them a piece of comb 
 containing drone brood taken from the before chosen 
 Italian stock. This plan will insure a large number 
 of Italian drones by the end of the month, and earlier 
 than those of the common variety. When these 
 drones are on the point of being hatched out, artificial 
 swarms, by division, should be made from these hives. 
 
Appendix. 
 
 107 
 
 Whichever compartment contains no queen will 
 shortly rear a great number. On the eleventh day 
 after the division, remove all the combs containing 
 royal cells, leaving two cells only on each piece of 
 comb. Place each one of these in small hives, styled 
 in England nucleus boxes, in which two pieces of 
 comb containing brood have been fixed two days 
 previously, with the bees which may have been 
 attached to them. 
 
 When the Italian queen is at least two days old, the 
 small hive, or nucleus box, should be removed for a 
 day or two to a cellar or dark room, giving due care 
 to insure ample ventilation. On the fourth day of 
 the queen^s existence, feed the bees with some syrup 
 or liquid honey, and place them in the bee-house at 
 nine o’clock in the morning. The drones and queens 
 in these hives will take flight before the drones from 
 the ordinary hives, and the queens, meeting only 
 with Italian drones, will almost surely be fertilized 
 by them. 
 
 As to the method of introducing Italian queens into 
 a hive, it is necessary first to take away the existing 
 queen, and leave the bees of that hive without a 
 queen for two days. After destroying all the royal 
 cells which are in process of formation, the new queen 
 must be shut up in a wire cage and introduced into 
 the hive in this manner, in order to accustom the 
 bees to her presence. The following day, she can be 
 set free, care being taken, however, to observe the 
 attitude of the bees towards her. If she is attacked 
 
io8 
 
 Appendix, 
 
 and closely pressed by them, she must again be placed 
 in the cage and not be set free till the following day. 
 It is possible, instead of introducing a fertile queen, to 
 place a royal cell at the top of the hive, between 
 two rows of comb ; I have often found this plan suc- 
 cessful. I may add that it is an easy matter, and by 
 no means an expensive one, to obtain Italian queens 
 direct from Italy. They are sent over in boxes at a 
 very reasonable price, and if an accident happens on 
 their way, compensation is made for such loss.^ 
 
 * In May the Italian queens are from eight to nine francs each, 
 and postage extra ; in September, five francs. They may be 
 obtained from M. Mona, apiculteur, Tessin, Suisse, or from M. 
 Celestino Spinedi, a Mendrizio Tessin. 
 
 LONDON : PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET 
 AND CHARING CROSS. 
 
A CATALOGUE 
 
 
 
 OF WORKS ON 
 
 Science and Art, 
 
 Natural History, 
 General Literature. 
 
 PUBLISHED AND SOLD BY 
 
 DAVID BOGUE. 
 
 T 
 
 3, St. Martin’s Place, Trafalgar Square. 
 
 July, 1879. 
 
Mr. DAVID BOGUE begs to announce that 
 he has removed the business, which since the 
 decease of Mr. Hardwicke he has carried on at 
 192, Piccadilly under the style of Hardwicke and 
 Bogue, to more commodious premises at No. 3, 
 St. Martin’s Place, Trafalgar Square, W.C. 
 
 After this date the business will be continued 
 in the name of Mr. David Bogue only. 
 
 July I, 1879. 
 
INDEX OF SUBJECTS. 
 
 Acrostics.— -5^^ Acrostics. 
 
 Angling. — See Dick. 
 
 Animals.— L ankester (E.) 
 
 Antiquarian.— *S^^J ewitt, Wal- 
 ford. [Taylor. 
 
 Aquarium. — See Science Gossip, 
 
 Architecture. — See Vincent. 
 
 Art. — See Bayliss,Heaphy,Zerffi. 
 
 Astronomy. — 5^^Darby, Popular 
 Science Review, Proctor. 
 
 Athletic Training.— 5^^ Ex- 
 ercise, Michod. 
 
 Bees. — See Hunter, Jardine. 
 
 Biography. — See Cash, Dra- 
 matic List. 
 
 Birds. — See Ornithology. 
 
 Botany. — See Braithwaite, Car- 
 rington, Cooke, De Crespigny, 
 Economic, Edgeworth, Gatty, 
 Hooker, Lankester (Mrs.), Lon- 
 don, Lowe, Midland Naturalist, 
 Nave, Notes on Collecting, 
 Popular Science Review, Rob- 
 son, Schleiden, Science Gossip, 
 Smith (J.), Smith (W.), Sower- 
 by, Spicer, Taylor, Trimen, 
 Tripp, Wooster. 
 
 Chemistry.— Brande and 
 Taylor, Popular ScienceReview. 
 
 Children. — See Barker. 
 
 CONCHOLOGY.— 5^^ Conchology 
 (Journal of). Notes on Collect- 
 ing, Tate. 
 
 Cruikshank.— Chamisso. 
 
 Dogs.— Smith (C. H.) 
 
 Dramatic. — See Pascoe. 
 
 Education.— Pascoe. 
 
 Electric Lighting.— 5^^Shool- 
 bred. 
 
 Entomology. — See Duncan, 
 Midland Naturalist, Morris, 
 Naturalist’s Library, Newman, 
 Notes on Collecting, Science 
 Gossip. 
 
 Eye (The).— A ngell, Dud- 
 geon. 
 
 Ferns. — See Eaton, Lankester 
 (Mrs.), Lowe, Smith (J.). 
 
 Fish. — See Ichthyology. 
 
 Folk-Lore. — See Dyer. 
 
 Food. — Johnson, Lankester. 
 
 French Language.— B lin- 
 court. 
 
 Genealogy.— W alford. 
 
 Geology.— Ansted, Eyton, 
 Geologist, Kinahan, Midland 
 Naturalist, Notes on Collecting, 
 Science Gossip, Symonds, 
 Taylor. 
 
 Heraldry.— 5^^ Elvin. 
 
 History.— M angnall. 
 
 Horse and Riding.— H ow- 
 den, Smith (C. H.), Waite. 
 
 Horticulture.— Burbidge, 
 Hibberd, Lowe, Maund, 
 Newton, Pomona. 
 
4 
 
 Index of Subjects. 
 
 Hygiene. — Granville, Health 
 Primers, Lankester (E.), Lan- 
 kester (Mrs.) 
 
 Ichthyology. — See Bushnan, 
 Capel, Couch, Hamilton. Jar- 
 dine. Naturalist’s Library, 
 Schomburgk, Science Gossip. 
 
 Insects. — See Entomology. 
 
 Knots. — See Book of Knots. 
 
 Law. — -S’^^Foibes, Geach. 
 
 Man. — See Sharpe, Smith (C.H.) 
 
 Medicine, &c. — See Granville, 
 Fleischmann, Dewar, Schaible. 
 
 Microscopy. — See Braithwaite, 
 Cooke, Davies, Edwards, How 
 to Choose, Kent, Lankester, 
 Midland Naturalist, Nave, Phin, 
 Popular Science Review, Quekett, 
 Schmidt, Science Gossip. 
 
 Mineralogy. — See Popular 
 
 Science Review. [nard. 
 
 Natural Science. — See Bar- 
 
 Needle-Work. — See Trotter. 
 
 Oology. — See Morris, Notes on 
 Collecting. 
 
 Ornithology.— 5^^ Bree, Jar- 
 dine, Martin, Morris, Naturalist’s 
 Library, Science Gossip, Selby, 
 Swainson, Wilson. 
 
 Philosophy.— 5^^ Butler. 
 
 Photography. — See Monk- 
 hoven, Russell. 
 
 Physics. — See Popular Science 
 Review. 
 
 Physiology.— 5^^ Lankester. 
 
 Poetry. — See Baddeley, Barclay, 
 Bennoch, Changed Cross, 
 Crown of Life, Crawley, For- 
 sayth. Idyls, Sharpe. 
 
 Professions —See Pascoe. 
 
 Reptiles. — See Cooke. 
 
 Science made Easy. — See 
 Twining. 
 
 Shooting.— 5^:^ How to Use, 
 Shooting. 
 
 Spiritualism.— Z erffi. 
 
 Sporting. — See Mason. 
 
 Thames (The).— 5^^ Up the 
 River. 
 
 Tobacco. — See Steinmetz. 
 
 Travellers (Hints for).— See 
 Boner, Lord. 
 
 Watches and Clocks.— 
 Benson. 
 
 Wild Flowers.— L ankester 
 (Mrs.) 
 
 Winds and Tides. — J ordan. 
 
 Woman. — See Cresswell. 
 
 Zoology. — See Hamilton, Jar- 
 dine, Macgillivray, Midland 
 Naturalist, Mivart, Naturalist’s 
 Library, Popular Science 
 Review, Science Gossip, Smith 
 (C.), Taylor, Waterhouse. 
 
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 Illustrated Medium of lutercJiange and Gossip 
 for Students and Lovers of Nature, 
 
 Edited by J. E. TAYLOR, Ph.D., F.L.S., F.G.S., &c. 
 
 Numerous Illustrations. 
 
 14 Volumes are ncnv published^ in cloth^ price 5^. each, 
 
 Vol. XV. commenced January, 1879. 
 
 Among the subjects included in its pages will be found: 
 Aquaria, Bees, Beetles, Birds, Butterflies, Ferns, Fish, 
 Flies, Fossils, Fungi, Geology, Lichens, Micro- 
 scopes, Mosses, Moths, Reptiles, Seaweeds, 
 
 Spiders, Wild Flowers, Worms, 
 
 &c., &c. 
 
 “This is a very pleasant journal, 
 that costs only fourpence a month, 
 and from which the 
 reader who is no na- 
 turalist ought to be 
 able to pick up a 
 good fourpenny- worth 
 of pleasant informa- 
 tion. It is conducted 
 and contributed to by 
 expert naturalists, who 
 are cheerful compa- 
 nions, as all good na- 
 turalists are \ technical 
 enough to make the 
 general reader feel 
 that they are in ear- 
 nest, and are not in- 
 sulting him by writing 
 down to his compre- 
 hension, but natural 
 enough and direct 
 enough in their records 
 of facts, their ques- 
 tioning and answering 
 each other concerning 
 curiosities of nature. 
 
 The reader who buys for himself their 
 monthly budget ofnotes and discussions 
 upon pleasant points 
 in natural history and 
 science, will probably 
 find his curiosity ex- 
 cited and his interest 
 in the world about 
 him taking the form 
 of a little study of 
 some branch of the 
 sort of knowledge that 
 has won his readiest 
 attention. For when 
 the study itself is so 
 delightful, and the en- 
 thusiasm it excites so 
 genuine and well-di- 
 rected, these enthu- 
 siasms are contagious. 
 The fault is not with 
 itself, but with the 
 public, if this little 
 magazine be not in 
 favour with a very 
 large circle of read-* 
 ers. ’ ’ — Examiner, 
 
 London : DAVID BOGUE, 3, St. Martin’s Place, W.C. 
 
 J. OGDEN AND CO., PHINTEKS, I72, ST. JOHN STREET, E.C. 
 

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