THE UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY 314 ceie q j if /V C0NT1TNTS. \rTER on Travel . ° vii rrangements for the Journey viii teamships. — The Ocean Journey x foney, etc ailway Travel Cotel Expenses, etc xx 1 ullarney. — The Lakes . 6 )ublin 14 ielfast, Giant’s Causeway, etc. . 23 h Wales 27 .and (Chester) 32 averpool *6 English Lake District land (The Land of Burns) .... ... 56 The Scottish Highlands . 68 * Staling, Perth, Aberdeen . . . 80 fidinburgh, Melrose, ^Abbotsford ...... 85 land (Newcastle, Durham, York) j» .... 95 Manchester, Lincoln, Derby 103 I oventry, Warwick, Stratford ........ 112 ondon 128 xcursions in Southern England ....... 151 outes to the Continent 159 S' hern France 161 Paris . , 168 Jtoutes from Paris to Switzerland . ..... 198 iiUM 201 Brussels andj^iwtm * .204 Ghent, Brug^sJ C‘3 •••**•♦ 207 VI CONTENTS. Holland # . Germany and Austria ......... Up the Rhine by Steamer Berlin Dresden and Prague Vienna Southeastern Europe Munich and the Tyrol Switzerland (Basle, Zurich) Lucerne, Righi, St. Gothard Berne, Freiburg, Lausanne, Geneva . . . . . Chamounix and Mont Blanc ....... St. Bernard and Simplon Passes Italy (Routes into Italy) . . The North-Italian Gities. ........ Florence Rome Naples, Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri . . . . . * Sicily ^SittlTHERN France (Nice, Marseilles) Arle^Nwnes, Avignon, Lyons A Round Trie in Spain Portugal ........ \ A Tour in the NoiAh . Norway and Sweden .......... Russia Alphabetical Table of Health Resorts . . Diplomatic and Consular Agents of the U. S. Travel-Phrases in Four Languages . . . , Travellers’ Telegraphic Code ...... Index . 212 218 222 241 240 250 255 261 274 280 287 292 294 . 297 . 302 . 329 . 340 . 370 . 384 . 397 . 401 fr 405 o 434 . 441 . 445 . 455 . 463 . 471 . 476 . i*92 . oOO Table of Moneys Opposite Title-Iige. Abbreviations Page facing Table of Contnts. CASSELL’S POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE. A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. C OURTEOUS READER, — When you have laid aside your prejudices, donned your garments of travel, and set your foot upon the gang-plank of the steamer bound for Europe, it will not be our fault if you discover that you have forgotten something. If you have bought this our little book, and read this preliminary chapter, you will depart for foreign lands with all your preparations properly made. This Guide describes, as minutely as possible within the limits of a “handy volume / 5 a continuous tour through Northern, Middle, Southeastern, and Southern Europe. The writer hopes and believes that if you follow exactly the routes which he describes from the first to the last page of the book, you will have seen in- telligently, at a minimum of cost and inconvenience, the most interesting sections of Europe, and all within four months. By suppressing the trip down the Danube and some parts of the Scottish and Sicilian tours, and the Scandinavian and Spanish tours, this can be re- duced by three weeks. Many summer tourists seem disinclined to visit N. Germany and Austria. This, we think, is a decided error of judgment; but it is evident that if these sections are not visited, the time is reduced a Vlll A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. by another ten days. Most travellers can, with a trifle of care and patience, sit down with this book before them, and by its aid plan a journey which, including the ocean voyages out and back, shall not take up more than four full months, and can be made with ease and enjoyment. Especial attention has been paid, in the preparation of this volume, to giving the local railway and steamboat fares , — a feature in which nearly all other English and American guide-books are sadly deficient. We believe that our work will be found very complete in this particular. Several hundred letters were written to station masters in all parts of Europe for the purpose of securing extreme accuracy. In most cases we think our fares will be found correct. Railway fares, how- ever, vary considerably in Italy during the course of a year, and our fares may sometimes be found a bit higher or lower than those prevalent in that country ; but the difference will be slight. We liave done our best to secure accuracy and fulness of detail. The traveller will be duly grateful, after he has tried in vain to find what he wants in the “A B CV’ and “ Bradshaws 55 of Great Britain, and has puzzled his brains over the complicated Continental hand-books. We think that the route which we - recommend and describe may be followed from beginning to end with no other guide than this one, which can be carried in the breast-pocket. The writer has been over nearly every route described. Arrangements for the Journey. Try to arrange your journey so as to reach Europe by the first of May. With a view to this, secure your steamship tickets very early in the year. When you ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE JOURNEY. IX have decided on the date of your departure and the probable length of your absence from home, step into a prominent banker’s in the city in which you reside, or the seaport whence you sail, and secure a Letter of Credit or Circular Notes for a sum which you deem sufficient to cover your expenses until you are at home again. Allow a margin for contingencies. The Letter of Credit is the most convenient, the safest and the most sensible manner of carrying nioney. On it are the ad- dresses of perhaps two hundred of the leading banking houses of Europe, and you have only to call on any one of these for such sums as you wish in the currency of the country where you may happen to be. Letters of credit are negotiable, at the bearer’s pleasure, by any person who chooses to accept drafts made against them. Firms not named in the letter will often give larger exchange than the regular local correspondent. Buy at a broker’s a few English sovereigns, for use on steamer, at landing at Liverpool, or Queenstown, or Southampton, or other ports. With these, and your Letter of Credit, you are well enough equipped as to money. Take a Passport. Circumstances may occur iu which it will be positively necessary for you to have one. Address a letter to the State Department, Passport Bureau , Washington , asking for the printed form necessary for application for the document. When you get this form, fill it out, swear to its contents before a notary, and send it back to the State Depart- ment, inclosing the government tax of $1- I 11 due time you will get your passport. One is sufficient for man and wife, or man and family where there are ro grown-up sons or daughters. If a passport serves X A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. for more persons than its holder, he should ask to have a note made upon it that Mr. is accompa- nied by . Passports are absolutely necessary if any one is suddenly called on to prove his or her identity. They are useful in securing admission to public buildings, private art galleries, etc. Sometimes the regulations exacting them are revived for a few days between two countries, because of a diplomatic tension or imbroglio, and the person who has none will find his journey interrupted, and will suffer loss of money, time, and temper. Steamships. — The Ocean Journey. A voyage across the Atlantic is to-day such a common undertaking that most travellers make as brief preparation for it as if they were going by train from New York to Chicago. The choice of steamships is very large. Try to secure your berths some weeks in advance of sail- ing ; a deposit of $25 is in most cases sufficient, and this you are supposed to forfeit if you fail to take the ship, although you may generally post- pone your departure by giving prompt notice of your desire to do so. Most of the lines give special rates for return tickets, the lowest fares usually ex- cepted. Among the lines specially to be recommended are the White Star (steamers sail from New York to Liver- pool, calling at Queenstown, on every Wed. ; fares $125, $100, $80, $60); the Cunard , famous, steady, fairly com- fortable (steamers sail from New York for Liverpool, via Queenstown, Wed. and Bat., from Boston, Sat ; fares, $125, $100, $80, $60) ; the Inman (steamers sail STEAMSHIPS. XI from N. Y. for Liverpool,^ Queenstown, every Wed.; fares, $125, $100, $80, $60); the American , excellent boats, good service (steamers sail from Philadelphia every Wed. for Liverpool, via Queenstown; fares $75, $60,$50); the Guion (steamers sail from New York for Liverpool, via Queenstown, on Sat. ; fares, $100, $80, $60, $50). Other popular lines are the Anchor , with a fleet of about 40 vessels (steamers sail from New York every Sat. to Glasgow; fares, $65, $60, $50 ; by “ City of Rome,” $100, $80, $60) ; the Norddeutscher Lloyd (steamers sail from New York Sat. and Tues. for Bre- men, calling at Southampton ; fares, $150, $125, $100 ; express service every second or third Sat. direct to Gibraltar and Genoa, from Nov. to May; fares, $125, $100, $90, $80); the Hamburg American Line (steam- ers sail every Thurs. and every other Tues. from New York for Hamburg; fares, $75, $60, $50; express ser- vice every Thur. to Southampton and Hamburg, twin screw steamers, $100 and upward) ; the Transatlan - tique Line (steamers sail Sat. from New York for Havre direct ; fares, $120, $100, or $80, wines in- cluded; by “La Touraine,” $140, $100); the Rotterdam Line (steamers sail from New York to Rotterdam or Amsterdam Sats. and alternate Weds. ; fares, $70, $60, $50. $45; from Baltimore to Rotterdam or Amsterdam occasional Weds., fare $42); the Red Star (steamers sail from New York to Antwerp, Wed.; fares, $100 to $55) ; the Allan-State (steamers sail to Glasgow, Liverpool, and Dublin, from New York every Thurs. ; fares, $40 and upward) ; the Navigazione Generate Italiana (steamers from New York direct to Italian ports ; fares, $75 to $190, according to length of voyage). 4 mar* Return Tickets on the Red Star and Inman Lines are exchangeable . xii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. The choice, as you see, is varied enough to suit any purse, and the accommodation on even the most inexpensive of the ships is good. For information as to sailings of these steamships from European ports for home, consult the list of sailings issued by the various Ss. Co.’s and the daily journals. The question of Baggage for a European tour is very important. Our advice is to take with you in any case one large, stoutly built American trunk, plainly marked, with your name, place of abode, etc. Have it well hooped about, and see that it possesses a capital Jock. Into this put everything that you are certain not to requireontheoceanvoyage. Then pack such articles as you will need either in a roomy valise or in one of the small, flat cabin trunks, built so that they will go under a berth, which may be had at any trunk-maker’s. Ladies will find these “ cab- in trunks ” almost indispensable. Take with you plenty of warm clothing, and make it a rule in travelling on the Continent always to have over- coats, cloaks, etc., at hand. You will find them as necessary in Switzerland and Italy as in Scot- land and North Germany. When you reach Liverpool, if you intend to return by that port, you can leave your cabin- trunk stored at a hotel or steamship office, if you think you will not re- quire it. Then have your large trunk sent from point to point where you may need it, but travel on all short excursions, trips of two or three days, etc., unencumbered by anything that you cannot carry in your hands. Even if a valise is rather vol- uminous, you can *fcake it into railway carriages with you all over the Continent. It is not wise to restrict one’s self in amount of baggage ; while the rates for overweight are high in some countries they THE OCEAN JOURNEY. xift almost any tiling except a house with you and no ques- tions are asked. A good portion of the equipment of a masculine traveller may be purchased after his arrival in Europe. He would better bring his American over- coats, but hats, shoes, rugs, linen, etc., can be had to advantage in Great Britain or Erance. Besides, by wearing European hats and shoes you will save money. It is a mistake to say that a man is known by the com- pany he keeps ; he is known by his hat and shoes. They are the distinguishing marks of his make-up. Travelling suits for gentlemen should be modest in color ; black clothes are handy when one arrives at a fashionable watering-place or a large town, and even- ing dress is highly necessary in London in the season, and in long stops in other cities it is of course fre- quently required. We shall not venture to offer the ladies advice about what to wear, further than to repeat our injunction concerning plenty of wraps, and to hint that thin shoes should not be worn in travel. Gentle- men will find gloves worn almost everywhere on the Continent by all except the working-classes, and often by some of them. Ulsters and linen dusters should be avoided; the ulster, outside the British Islands or at sea, looks odd and is useless. A waterproof coat is extremely useful. An umbrella, stout enough to serve the purpose of a cane, should be taken. Woollen socks and thick-soled shoes are the things for travel. Travelling suits for gentlemen cost in Great Britain or Erance about one third as much as in America. They are not made so well, nor of such good material as our own, but they are very serviceable. On the Steamship Voyage keep in the open air as much as possible. If you suffer continuously from sea- sickness, struggle up on deck daily, and in one of the adjustable steamer chairs, to be provided by yourself. Xiv A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. remain in a recumbent posture, well wrapped up, but do not pass a moment of daylight down stairs, except when at meals or in very rough weather. The deck steward will even bring you your meals, if necessary. If the ship pitches violently, lie with your head toward the bows. If you are well, and wish to remain so, avoid heavy food, heating liquors, intense application to books or cards. Just live, eat, and sleep, and when you reach land you will be amazed to observe how yon are rested. Avoid late suppers. Get up early, and get on deck at once. When you are approaching land the question of stewards’ fees will come up. We should say give the steward who waits on you at table 10s. ; your berth-room steward somewhat less, according to the trouble you have made him ; and the “ boots ” 2s. 6d. But if you cannot afford so much, give less : the ser- vants expect something, but they never grumble at the amount. Lauding at Queenstown is very simple. You go off in a tug, which transports you up the bay from Roches Point (see Ireland). Customs formalities same as on Landing at Liverpool. — We strongly advise tourists To leave the steamers at Queenstown, and go through Ireland first, but we feel convinced that large numbers of them will proceed to Liverpool. The landing ar- rangements at this great port are not so perfect as they might be, and have recently suffered some small alterations. Passengers formerly left the steamers in tugs, and came up to the Prince’s Landing Stage, where there is a kind of custom-house, and where they were usually kept waiting about an hour. Now ships usually go into dock before discharging passengers. MONEY. xv The custom-house officers search for cigars air spirits only ; if you have neither, you will soo: have your “ luggage ” on a cab or dray, and be o: your way to the North Western or Midland Kailway stations, or to your hotel. Money.— A Word of Explanation. i yl In Great Britain the money is pounds, shillings, and pence (£ s. d.). In France, Belgium, Switzer- land, Italy, and Spain there is a decimal currency. In the first three countries the reckoning is in francs and centimes ; in Italy it is in lire and centesimi ; in Spain, in pesetas and reales. But gold and silver coins of any of the five above- named countries circulate freely in any one of them. The French twenty-franc piece, called Napoleon, or Louis, is current money anywhere in the Continent. In Holland the money is reckoned in guilders and cents. There are 100 cents in a guilder, which is 40 cents of our money. I In Germany the reckoning is in marks and yfen-^A nige. The mark is about 24 cents gold, and ther« are 100 pfennig e in it. When you give one pfennig^ to a beggar, he never troubles you again. In 1 Austria you must reckon in florins and kreutzers. \ The florin is 46 cents of our money, and is divided i into 100 kreutzers. Austrian paper money, with which the country is flooded, and which is legal \ tender when coin is not contracted for, is 20 or 25 per cent, below par. You will observe that in , giving the local railway fares in these different countries, we have usea abbreviations : Pounds, shillings, pence, £ s. d. ; francs and centimes, fr. c. ; lire and centesimi, 1. c. ; reales, rs. ; etc. In Portu- gal the money is counted in reis, of which it takes XVI A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. I ten to make one cent. In Russia roubles and \ kopecks are the money. The gold coins most in } use on the lines of travel which you are likely to take are sovereigns and half-sovereigns (English) ; • — the guinea (21s.) no longer exists, although it is still used in reckoning ; — twenty, ten and five franc pieces ; twenty-mark and ten-mark pieces ; Hungarian twenty-franc pieces ; Spanish Isabels , worth a trifle more than sovereigns. Italy has resumed specie payment, and her paper is now at par. Be careful not to bring Italian or Austrian paper to Paris or London. You will lose very heavily on it. English, French and German bank notes are as good as gold. The French have notes of fifty, one hundred, five hundred and one thou- sand francs, and these are extremely convenient to carry on the Continent. (See Comparative Table of Moneys in front of title-page.) Railway Travel. — You will find first , second , and third class everywhere (save upon the English Midland Railway and a section of the Great ^Northern, which have no second class) ; and we have given the fares for each class in all cases when practicable. Express trains on the Continent have no third class ; but in Great Britain nearly all trains have it. First-class is best for long jour- neys ; second good enough for short ones ; and third worth taking now and then, particularly in England and Germany, for the purpose of study- ing the common people. Second-class in Germany and Austria is almost as comfortable as first-class in England and France. On a long journey from France into Germany, you may frequently take “a mixed” ticket with advantage, i. e., first in France and second in Germany. A gentle- RAILWAYS. XIX on many English and Continental lines ; in Great Britain are like our ov?n ; on the Conti- nent the “ Mann Boudoir Car ” is in use. This latter is very comfortable, but the rates are extrava- gantly high. The Boudoir Cars are called wagons- tits , “bed- wagons,” in most Continental countries; their office in Paris is No. 2 Rue Scribe. Betweeu Paris and Vienna, Paris and Geneva, Paris and Turin and Florence, and often Rome also, Paris and Berlin and Russia, etc., there is a regular sleeping-car service. The Russian cars are larger and more elegant than the other Continental ones ; and in Russia and Switzer- land a modified American railway-carriage, in which, however, class distinctions are kept up, is in use. The amount of baggage carried free in France, Spain, ana Sweden is 66 pounds ; in North Germany, Austro- Hungary, and Russia, 55 pounds ; in Great Britain, any reasonable amount; in South Germany, Belgium, Holland, Italy, and Switzerland, there is no free bag- gage, but the rates are not extravagant. In some parts of Italy and Switzerland there have been great complaints that baggage has been plundered in transit by baggage-masters and train-men ; hence the necessity for first-rate locks already mentioned. Parcels, and baggage when forwarded to be called for later, should be sealed. Indeed, the railway companies generally insist on this, and refuse articles which appear to be insecurely fastened. In all Continental countries, when your baggage is weighed, a receipt is given you, and the number on it corresponds to that pasted on the trunk or valise. Even if there is no excess of weight, you must have a receipt. In some cases, in going from an important city in one country to an impor- tant city in another, your baggage can be “ registered through,” and examined when it reaches its destination ; XX A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. in others, although registered through, it must be ex- amined at the frontier. The examination is a pure formality almost everywhere. In vexatious cases noth- ing is gained by grumbling and scolding. Small fees to railway servants, guards, etc., always meet with prompt return in civility and privilege. At all German and Swiss railway depots , apply to the portier for information. In Italy the railway facchini are paid according to tariff, — i soldi (cents) for a trunk, 2 for a bag or valise, and in proportion for a bundle of wraps, etc. In Home, hoAvever, this tariff is raised to 5 and 3 soldi. The refreshment rooms in England, Scotland, Italy, Spain, and North Germany are not very good ; in other countries they are excellent. On long journeys carry your own basket, especially in Italy and Spain, where fruit, bread, and wine may be had in the open-air markets for a song, but in hotels are purposely held very dear. In Italy and Russia a window on the wind- ward side of a railway carriage cannot be kept open if any person in the compartment objects. Hotel Expenses must naturally vary much according to taste and in- come of the traveller. Our lists of hotels are carefully selected, and we believe that the houses recommended will be found satisfactory. Great Britain is an ex- pensive country by comparison with Switzerland or Italy; in Germany cities are expensive, small towns and country cheap. The American will notice with some surprise that life in Europe is, as a whole, no longer much if any cheaper than in America. To live even carefully at a first clas&-hotel in any part of Great Britain costs about four dollars or four dollars and a half daily, divided somewhat as follows : breakfast, HOTEL EXPENSES. XXI from two and six (two shillings and sixpence) to three and six ; luncli, about same price ; dinner, without wine, five shillings ; room, from four and six to eight and six, and invariably one and six for attendance. Wines are as dear, with few exceptions, as in the United States. There are, however, good hotels, where you may live at about ten shillings daily ; and private boarding-houses in the large cities where it will cost from seven to ten shillings daily, — rarely under ten. A person very econo- mically inclined may possibly live for six shil- lings daily, but not in rapid travel. On the Continent you may calculate that if you reach a hotel at nightfall, dine or sup and sleep, and take early break- fast there, your bill will be 12 or 13 francs. For a stay of some days you may manage not to spend more than from ten to fourteen francs daily. In large capi- tals, simply take room at your hotel, and your first meal there. The others can be had to suit your purse and convenience at restaurants. In Germany, Switzer- land, and some parts of Italy, the tables d'hote are cheaper than the restaurants. If you want a cheap room in a hotel, say so ; there is no surprise at economy in Europe. Candles are charged extra, but you are only bound to pay for those you actually use. Gas is rarely found in bedrooms. In England soap is fur- nished ; on the Continent, not. Washing can usually be done within 21 hours in all countries. When you buy a parcel and order it sent to your room, give the number of the chamber, and not your name. Fee the portier at Continental hotels ; he will be useful. Give one of your dining-room waiters something, but give to only one. Never mind the head waiter’s sardonic frown. In France you will save money by taking your meals at the houses when the natives take theirs ; out of hours you pay special prices By asking for “ice* xxii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. water,” you can now get it almost everywhere. In Middle Europe drink ordinary wines, and dilute them with water, except at evening. The vin ordinaire is pure and wholesome in all coun- tries. Examine your bills, and don’t allow over- charges. Omnibus from station is generally charged in bill. Baggage porter expects small fee when you go away. Insist on having your bill when you ask for it. You will find English spoken in almost all hotels. You can always post letters and generally send telegrams from your hotel, unless in some small country town. Telegraphy is cheap in nearly all European coun- tries. Before leaving America tell your friends , to write to you, care of your bankers in London or Paris ; if you keep your bankers advised of your address you will never miss a mail. Reg- ister your name at the London and Paris offices of your banker’s; and you may thus find friends or acquaintances who happen to be travelling abroad. In Paris you will find Messrs. Drexel, Harjes & Co., John Monroe & Co., Thos. Cook & Son, and other bankers, well provided with post- offices, reading-rooms, ^ and information about travel. If you need a courier (but you really do not), ask your banker or landlord for the address of one. Couriers are expensive luxuries. We think all necessary information about cabs will be found in the text of the volume. Diligences are to be avoided as much as possible. In some places they CAUTIONS. xxin are, however, indispensable. On steamboats on lakes and streams you may usually take free about twice as much baggage as by rail. Always make your bar- gains beforehand for private carriages. A few Cautions as to small matters may not be out of place. Should you go shopping on the Con- tinent, especially in France, Belgium, Switzerland, or Italy, try to make up your mind from your in- spection of an article in the windows whether you want it or not. The window is really the shop ; everything is plainly marked, and if you go in and come out again without buying, the shopkeeper considers that you have made him waste his time, and does not conceal his disap- pointment from you. Should you take furnished apartments, be sure and inspect the inventory made of them before you move in. Do not violate any regu- lations, municipal or general, however trivial and use- less they may seem, for the laws are rigidly enforced. Secure seats at the theatres at least 24 hours before you intend to go, otherwise you will be badly placed. Avoid draughts in France and England, and in France do not leave your windows open at night. After climbing a Swiss mountain pass, be careful not to take cold ; imprudence in the mountains often ruins a whole summer. Wraps must be taken into galleries, churches, and palaces, especially in Italy, even in summer. In passing from sunshine to shade, gather your garments about you, and avoid chills. Treat servants in France and other Latin countries and in Switzerland as you would in America, but in Great Britain and Germany and Austria keep them at a distance; they do not understand democracy, and would impose upon you. If you go to a poste restante (general delivery post-office), present your name plainly written or printed on a card. In making pedestrian tours in out-of-the-way districts, XXiV A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. do not lose your temper .if the local officials are a little curious about your movements. In case of sudden illness in France, Italy, or Switzerland, call an Amer- ican or English physician. The French and Italian and Swiss doctors employ remedies which are sometimes too gentle for Anglo-Saxon constitutions, and often fail to prescribe sufficient nutriment. But a local physician who has had practice among foreigners is better than a foreigner. Language is not so great a barrier to communication as is imagined. If you get into a corner of Europe where no tongue that you can speak is understood, use English just as if the people knew what it meant, and make signs. You will get on famously. The little list of phrases at the end of this volume may be found an aid to those who have some familiarity with those languages most spoken in Europe. On general principles, however, it is better to use what little you know of a foreign language than to seek interpreters. You will be presumed to know more than you express, and you will make better bargains. Go to the United States Consul for information when you are really in doubt and need advice. Not even then, if he is a political appointee and not a practical man. In the latter case only is he likely to have that acquaintance with the language, laws, and customs of the place, whereby he can aid you; while, if lie has an important office and attends to it, he has little time for strangers who come without a business reason for their call. CASSELL’S POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE. IRELAND. ' r pHE majority of American visitors to Europe go X first to Great Britain, proceeding directly by steam- ship to Liverpool, and leaving a tour through the pic- turesque and interesting island of Ireland among the possibilities of the last days of their pilgrimage. Our own impression is that those who go abroad as early as May or June would do better to land at Queenstown, aqd make a brief trip through the Emerald Isle, quitting it either via Belfast for Glasgow (where they can start on their journey in the Scotch mts.), or via Dublin and Kingstown, crossing the Irish Channel to Holyhead in I hrs., and going from Holyhead to Chester, Liverpool, and thence northward to the English Lake District, or to London, as best suits their humor. Thousands of persons return to the United States without having set foot in Ireland. They intended to go there ; but after their long season of travel on the Continent they get back to London somewhat wearied, as well as economically inclined, and the result is that they hasten to Liverpool, and take ship for home, seeing naught of Ireland but the bold lines of its coast and the round towers which cap its highest cliffs. 1 2 QUEENSTOWN. Ireland is worth a visit of 3-5 days, and our ob- ject is to show the tourist how he may spend those days to advantage in that country. The steamships of most of the principal lines call at Queenstown, coming from and going to New York, Philadelphia, Boston, and other ports. Tugboats speedily convey passengers with their baggage from Roches Point, where the steamers stop, up to the town proper ; and the noble port with its green water, the verdant hills crowned with handsome buildings and protected by fortifica- tions, and the pretty groves and forests, out of which white villas peep, form a picture doubly pleasing to the eye of the visitor, after he has for many days seen nothing but sea, sky, and the ship that brought him over. Queenstown (Queen’s Hotel) is on Great Island, which lies in the magnificent bay or arm of the sea into which the river Lee pours its waters. The town was formerly called the “Cove of Cork/’ and received its present name after Queen Victoria paid it a visit. It is built on the face of a hill sloping down to the shore ; has a Catholic cathedral and a fine Protestant church, and a trifle more than 10,000 inhab. Invalids are attracted to Queenstown by the extreme mildness of its climate. Bev. Charles Wolfe, who wrote the famous lines on the burial of Sir John Moore, died of consumption here in 1823, and is buried on the island. The immense harbor of Cork, large enough to afford shelter to the combined navies of Europe at once, in its basin 10 square M. in area, is well defended by forts on either side the channel of entrance. On Spike Island is FortWestmoreland commanding entrance to harbor. Hawlbowline Island contains ordnance stores and an armory. Rocky Island is a powder magazine, with 6 huge chambers, holding 10,000 barrels of gunpowder. IRELAND. 3 and quarried out of the solid rock. It was into Cork Harbor and Crosshaven Creek that Drake retreated when the Spanish fleet was hotly pursuing him. He succeeded in hiding his ships so effectually at a spot known to this day as Drake s Pool, that the supersti- tious Spaniards attributed the disappearance to magic. There are three routes from Queenstown to Cork: by rail all the way (Is. 2d., 9d., or 6d.) ; by steamer to Passage and t hence by rail (fares same as above) ; or by steamer up the river direct to Patrick’s Bridge. “ It would be difficult,” wrote Sir John Porbes, <£ to overpraise the beauty of the river from Cork to Queenstown, or the magnificent harbor or inland bay in which it terminates, more especially when these are seen under the influence of a bright sun and brilliant sky.” At Monkstown , at a point where the river Lee widens into a lake, stands a castle, now in ruins. Cork ( Imperial Hotel; Royal Victoria; Commercial ; and others), the “ capital of the South,” has a popula- tion of 80,000. It is situated on both banks of the river Lee, which is crossed by numerous bridges. The Irish name of Cork signifies “a swamp,” and well de- scribes the location of the town. The Grand Parade, the South Mall, Great George’s-St., Mardyke, and St. Patrick’s-St., on which stands a statue of -Father Mathew, are the principal avenues. The Queen’s College, a handsome quadrangular structure in the Tudor-Gothic style, is situated on a small hill near the S. fork of the stream. St. Ann's C/i. is the most interesting edifice in Cork. It contains the “ bells of Shandon,” of which Fat her Prout sang so melodiously. This ch. was built in 1722, and its curious steeple, three sides of which are of limestone, while the fourth is red, is 120 ft. high, and constructed of hewn stone from a Franciscan abbey where James II. had once heard mass, and from the 4 CORK. — BLARNEY CASTLE. ruins of a castle which had been the official residence of the lords-president of Munster. The Ch. of the Holy Trinity , founded by Father Mathew, who began his career as an apostle of temperance in Cork, is wor. thy a visit ; and so is the Cathedral of St. Fionn Bar. This saint founded a monastery on the site of a heathen temple in Cork in the 7th century. The invading Danes, 200 years later, surrounded the little town with walls. Cork had its charter as a city taken away at the close of the 15th century, because it had received Perkin Warbeck, the impostor king, with royal honors. The charter was restored in 1609. Cromwell’s cruel- ties in Cork, in the War of the Protectorate, are still related by the inhabitants. William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, became a convert to Quakerism in Cork, where he heard the eloquent preaching of one Thomas Loe. Cork was surrendered to Henry II. in the 12th century by Dermot M'Carthy, Prince of Desmond ; but the English invaders were harassed for centuries by petty Irish chieftains, and the sentiment of independent Irish nationality seems even nowadays conspicuously manifest in the neighborhood. The love- ly Victoria Park of 140 acres may be seen on the way to Blarney Castle. Blarney Castle may be reached from Cork by rail in 16 min. But the best plan is to take a jaunting-car (about 3s. there and back) by the road on the N. bank of the river. The distance is 5 M. Cormac M‘Carthy built the massive donjon tower, 120 ft. high, and the lower portion, in the 15th century; and the famous Blarney Stone, which bore the inscription Cormach Mac Cart hy Fortis Mi Fieri Fecit A. 1). 1446, now illegible, was clasped by two iron bars to a projecting buttress at the top of the castle, at the N. angle, sev- eral ft. below the level of the wall, so that the person IRELAND. 5 rno wished to kiss it had to hold on to the bars, and project his body forward in most risky fashion. An- other stone, marked “ 1703, 55 stands within the tower in a place where it is quite accessible to kisses. “ The Blarney Stone,” says Black’s Picturesque Tourist of Ireland, “ had long been a byword among the Irish : it is difficult to conjecture why, unless the glib tongues of the natiy^^jrf^yikjocality were supposed to be not the ordinary gift of'K$in$., But it had not reached its full zenith of talismanic powet 4 Until 1799, when Milliken wrote his ^yell-known song of ‘ The Groves of Blarney.’ A cirnbuV tradfCioil raiUibutes to the stone the power of endowing whoever hisses it with the sweet, persuasive, wheedling eloquence, so perceptible in the language of the Cork people, and which is usu- ally termed Blarney .” There is an odd story about Blarney Lake , a pretty sheet of water, J M. from the castle. It is said that the Earl of Clancarty, who for- feited the property at the Revolution, sank all his fam- ily plate in a certain part of this lake ; that three of the JVTCarthys inherit the secret of the place where the treasure is sunk, any one of whom, dying, communi- cates it to another of the family, and - thus perpetuates the secret, which is never to be made public until a M’Carthy is again Lord of Blarney. Other Excursions from Cork. — To Bostellan Castle and Cloyne , three times daily by steamer to Aghada. In Rostellan Castle is preserved an ancient sword said to have belonged to Brian Boroihme, the ancestor of the O’Briens. M Cloyne there is a 14th century cathedral and a noted “ round tower.” — To Youghal and the Blackwater. This excursion may be made in a single day by taking an early train from Cork to Youghal (28 M.), whence a steamer up the beautiful Blackwater River to Cappoquin , above which 6 LAKES OF KILL ARNE Y. point the stream is not navigable. At Youghal (Hotel : Devonshire Arms ) is the “ Warden’s House/’ the residence of Sir Walter Raleigh in 1588-89. It was there that he entertained Spenser when the poet was preparing his “Faerie Queene” for publication. It was also in Youghal that the first potato was planted in Ireland, by Raleigh. From Cappoquin the traveller may take the mail (jaunting-car) to Lismore, one of the most ancient towns in Ireland, twice daily (Sundays excepted). Castle of the Duke of Devonshire, on the site of the old University ; visitors admitted. From Lismore the tourist can go by rail to Fermoy in 45 min. ; from Fermoy to Mallow, 46 min. ; and from Mallow he may return to Cork, reaching there in the evening, or may go to Killarney. Killarney. The Lakes, and Lake Region, The traveller may go from Cork to Killarney by rail, via Mallow Junction, in about 3 hrs., 68f M. (11s. 6d., 8s. 4d., 5s.). This is the shortest, but the least inter- esting route. For those pressed for time, it is the best. By leaving Cork late in the afternoon one may reach Killarney in time to get a good night’s rest, and, starting early on the following morning, may visit the most attractive points in the region, getting back to Mallow Junction in time to take a night train for Dub- lin. But those who are making a more leisurely tour will find themselves well repaid for taking either of the two routes via Glengariff. One of these leads from Cork by rail through Bandon to Dunmanway, and thence by coach to Glengariff ( Roche’s Hotel ; Eccles ’), thence to Kenmare ( Lansdowne Arms'), and so on through a barren and wild, but picturesque country, across the mts., and down to Killarney. The most IRELAND. T extensive view of Glengariff, a ravine about 3 M. long, and rich with yew, holly, and arbutus, is to be had from Old Berehaven road, near Cromwell’s Bridge. The beautiful grounds around Glengariff Castle are worth a visit. From Glengariff the journey may be extended to Bantry Bay, either by land or water. The latter way is preferable, affording an excellent view of the bold coast scenery. But we would recommend none of these ex- cursions to the seaside, unless the weather is entirely favorable. Nothing is drearier than an Irish wet day by the sea. The route from Cork to Macroom by rail, 24 M., and thence by jaunting-car to Glengariff, Ken* mare, and Killarney, is highly spoken of by travellers who have recently taken it. Both these above-mentioned ways require two days, and a trip to Bantry Bay will take another half-day. In summer a coach runs from Cork to Killarney, in one day, but does not pass through the most interesting places. (Fare by this coach, 19s.) Macroom is the place where the Irish Bards held their meetings, and a fine ivy-mantled castle may be seen there. In the vicinity of Kenmare there are many lovely views ; and the river or bay of Kenmare is by some considered the most beautiful on the Irish coast. Killarney ( Royal Victoria Hotel ; Railway ; Lake ; Innisf alien), population 5,000, lies about 1£M. from the N. E. margin of Lough Leane, or the Lower Lake. It possesses a cathedral, designed by Pugin, and a nunnery, with a school attached, where 400 girls are educated. The hotels generally command very good views of the lakes and the mts*. The town is renowned for its beggars ; and for the artifice of the peasantry in extorting sixpences from travellers, in return for some trifling and entirely superfluous service. Two- days are required properly to see the lakes, the Gap of Dunloe, Muckross Abbey, and the Tore Cascade; 8 LAKES OF KILLARNEY. but if only one day can be given, the best plan is to engage a pony and ride from Killarney through the Gap of Dunloe to the head of the Upper Lake, having previously ordered a boat to be in readiness at Lord Brandon’s Cottage on that lake. It is 15 M. from Kil- larney to this cottage, and many may prefer to walk rather than ride a stumbling horse, especially as they can rest in the boat while rowed down the lakes after- wards. Arrangements for horses, boats, etc., can usu- ally be made at the hotels. The tariff is established by local law, and there is no occasion to give more. The first object of interest on the road from Killar- ney to the Gap of Dunloe is a huge county lunatic asylum, and the next is the old ruin of Aghadoe, 2^ M. from the town. All that remains of the once cele- brated castle is a fragment of a tower. Near by is a church, consisting of two distinct chapels of unequal antiquity, lying E. and W. of each other. The W. chapel is in the Romanesque style, and was under the patronage of St. Einian. The E. chapel dates from 1158, is in the Pointed style, and was dedicated to the Holy Trinity. There are a few fine country-houses on the road beyond Aghadoe. Lake View House , on the 1., is the residence of a brother of the great O’Con- nell ; Beaufort House is attractive ; and Dunloe Castle , also on the 1., is celebrated as having been one of the residences of the powerful O’Sullivan Mor. The pres- ent proprietor has restored the castle. About 2 M. from the entrance to the Gap is the Cave of Dunloe (in a field not far from the road). This cavern was opened in 1838 by some laborers digging a ditch, and was found to be roofed with impost stones, in the angles of which were inscriptions in the ancient Ogham charac- ter, supposed to have been used by the Druids before the introduction of Christianity into Ireland. This IRELAND. 9 venerable storehouse of Irish history will have but small interest for the tourist, and he will do well to press on to the Gap. On his way thither he will pass the cabin in which the fair “ Kate Kearney ” once re- sided, and will doubtless be invited by one of her descendants to exchange sixpence or a shilling for a mysterious drink of goats’ milk and whiskey. Of the Gap of Dunloe an Irish writer has said : “ It appears as if the vast range of mts., of which this most singular ravine is composed, were cleft in twain by a mighty sword : one is not surprised at its appear- ance having given rise to such a tradition.” It is a narrow defile I M. long, between the range of hills called “ Macgillicuddy’s Reeks ” and the Purple Mt., a shoulder of the Tomies. The rapid stream called the Loe traverses the whole length of the glen, ex- panding at various places into five lakes known as the Cummeen Thomeen. The road is a mere bridle- path, sometimes on the very edge of precipices. The peasantry say that it was at the Black Lough, one of the small lakes, that St. Patrick- banished the last snake from Ireland. Many travellers who are disappointed in the Gap of Dunloe find the view, just after leaving it, up what is called the Black Valley , extremely im- pressive. The Gap is bordered by rocky peaks vary- ing from 2,000 to 3,100 ft. in height ; but the vast and desolate amphitheatre of the Black Valley, with its rugged masses of darkened rock, its circular basins of still water filled with dissolved peaty matter, and its wild and mysterious recesses, gives an impression of grandeur and wonder which its neighbor ravine fails to produce. The view down the valley in a warm, hazy day is very striking. The water in the lakes throws back the light which it receives by reflection from the sky, and thus seems to be lighted from below. 10 LAKES OF KILLARNEY. At numerous points in the Gap and on the Lakes- there are superb echoes, and there is no lack of peas- ants to awaken them, and to claim a fee for having done so. A narrow and rugged footpath leads down from the head ot the Gap to Lord Brandon's Cottage , where the tourist who lias ordered a boat before leav- ing Killarney will find it waiting for him. It is well to have lunch provided in the boat, so that one can take it as he is rowed down towards the Middle and Lower Lakes. From Lord Brandon’s Cottage one may ascend Purple Mt . (2,739 ft. high), and from the summit get a fine view of the Upper and Middle Lakes and a long stretch of the sea-coast beyond : but this would require half a day at least. The Lakes. — From the cottage, across the Upper Lake, 2^ M., the boatmen row so as to show the tourist/ the numerous pretty islands. The first of these is M Carthy s ; the second, Arbutus Island , completely covered with the beautiful plant whose name it bears. "The islands in the lakes of Cumberland,” says the author ot Black’s Picturesque Tourist, “ are either grassy holms, with sometimes a piece of yellow whin to catch the eye, or perhaps a solitary tree or shrub, or, if larger, such as St. Herbert’s and Lord’s Isle on Derwentwater, bearing shady groves of ash and plane, mixed with every other variety of forest trees. The islands on the Killarney Lakes have a totally different aspect, produced entirely by the presence of the arbutus C Arbutus unedo). Even in winter the leaves are of a rich glossy green, and so clustered at the terminations of the branches that the waxen, flesh-like flow r ers, which hang in graceful racemes, or the rich crimson, straw- berry-like fruit, seem cradled in a nest of verdure.” The Upper Lake is thought by most people to be the finest of the three. On the S. lie the Derrycunihy mt. Map of GREAT BRITAIN , AND IRELAND CasselTiS Pockrr Cuideto Europe BJtJSTOlSf CMAAVvSg*. MAflTCAND PT, IRELAND. a ranges, and on the 1. the high “ Reeks.” The Long Range is a river, rather 3 than 2 M. in length, connect- ing the Upper with the Middle Lake. Things to note here : Golmans Lye ; The Man of War ; The Four Friends , a group of islets ; The Eagle's Nest , a cliff which towers 700 ft. above the river (the echoes heard from this point are remarkably fine) ; Old Weir Bridge. an ancient structure, under which the water rushes swiftly. The small boat is carried through at great speed, and floats into a still pool called the Meeting of Waters, near Dinish Island, and then into the Middle , which is also called Muckross , or Tore Lake. On Dinish Island there is a cottage where dinner may be had, if previously ordered from the hotel in Kil- larney in the morning. Tore Cascade can be visited from this point ; but it will be better to take this in conjunction with the visit to Muckross Abbey, a little farther on. Passing under Brickeen Bridge , the boat enters Lough Leane, or the Lower Lake. The area of this is about 5,000 acres ; its greatest length 5 M., breadth 3 M. There are thirty islands, the principal one of which, the Boss, is the location of the last stronghold in Munster that surrendered to the Parlia- mentary army. The castle was built in the 14th cen- tury, by one of the O’Donoghues. The island of Tunis- fallen , midway in the lake, is celebrated in history and fiction ; and that keen observer, Arthur Young, said of it that it was “ the most beautiful in the king’s do- minions, and perhaps in Europe.” The ruins of the noted abbey are pointed out. The “ Annals of Innis- fallen,” a kind of universal history down to the time of St. Patrick, were written in this abbey about 600 years ago. The original copy of this curious work is now preserved in the Bodleian Library. In 1180 the abbey, into which all the treasures of the adjacent country 12 MUCKROSS ABBEY. had been gathered for safe keeping, was plundered by Mildwin, son of Daniel O’Donoghue. The boatmen will tell the traveller quite as much as he will care to hear about the past of “ sweet Innisfallen.” The part of the Lower Lake first entered is called Glena Bay. From the shore near Rabbit Island it is but a short walk to O' Sullivan’ s Cascade . Those who wish to visit Muckross Abbey on the same day as the Gap and Lakes, should arrange with their boatmen to land them at the point of the Lower Lake nearest to it. From the shore through the handsome estate of Mr. Herbert to the abbey is but a short walk. The noted ruins are those of a ch. and abbey, founded in 1440, partly restored in 1602, and still in decent preservation. In the ch. are many ancient tombs; among them, those of the O’Sullivans, M c Carthys, and O’Donoghue Mor. The arms of a gigantic yew-tree support the crumbling wall of a beautiful cloister. The trunk of the yew^ is 13 ft. in circumference. Fees are not exacted here ; but it is customary to give something. Muckross Abbey Man- sion is a fine example of the Elizabethan style of archi- tecture. Passing through Mr. Herbert’s grounds, the visitor is admitted at a small wicket (fee, 6d.) to the enclosure within which is the Tore Cascade. Climb up above the fall, which is 60-70 ft. high, and look down upon it and out over the lakes. Visitors may, if they wish, drive or walk through the grounds of the Lari of Kenmare to Loss Island and Castle. The island is connected with the mainland by a dike. From Muckross to Killarney the distance is about 3^ M. The entire round trip is not very fatiguing. We recommend the tourist to ride the first 11 M. to the Gap ; walk 4 M. through the Gap to Lord Bran- :don’s Cottage; then the 13 M. across the lakes to IRELAND, 13 Muckross and the M. into Killarney can be done easily before dark. Other Excursions from Killarney. — Ascent of Mount Mangerton (2,756 ft.). On the way one comes to the f£ Devil’s Punch Bowl,” a mountain tarn 2,206 ft. above the sea level. It occupies a basin 28 acres in extent. Charles James Pox swam around it in 1772. Ascent of the Reeks : interesting, but somewhat diffi- cult. Journey to Valentia : it is worth a day’s ride on a jaunting-car to see the mighty waves beating against the rocky cliffs of the Atlantic coast. The train from Killarney to Dublin (time, 7 hrs. ; fares, 31, 25, or 16s.) reaches the main line at Mallow Junction. Near Mallow are the ruins of Kilcolman Castle , where Edmund Spenser wrote the “Paerie Queene.” He obtained, in 1586, a grant of land from the forfeited estates of the Earl of Desmond, on condition that he should inhabit the country. In 1597 his castle was attacked by the native Irish, to whom he had rendered himself obnoxious, and his in- fant child perished in the flames which destroyed his home. He fled to London, and died of a broken heart, At Limerick Junction the main line from Dublin to Cork is intersected by the Waterford and Limerick line. Limerick ( Royal Hotel ; George ; Glentworth), on the Shannon, “the noblest of Irish rivers,” deserves a visit, which can be made in a day, including the re- turn to the line to Dublin. Limerick has about 40,000 inhab. ; and contains a venerable cathedral transformed into a Protestant church, and a noble castle built in King John’s 'time. Waterford ( Adelphi Hotel; Imperial) merits a visit, but is perhaps too far off the line of the vacation 1 4 WATERFORD. — CASHEL. — DUBLIN. tourist. It is a handsome town of 23,000 inhab., on the Suir ; and was the scene of many terrible fights between the Irish and the Danes, Between Limerick Junction and Dublin there are many places of histori- cal importance. Erom GoolcT s-Cross Station it is but 5 M. across country to the Rock of Cashel, which rises 300 ft. above the plain. Cashel was the residence of the Kings of Munster ; and there Henry II. received the homage of Donald, King of Limerick, in 1172. Edward the Bruce also held a parliament there. Near Thurles are the ruins of Holy -Cross Abbey. Just beyond Portarlington. the river Barrow is crossed on an iron viaduct 500 ft. long. Kildare , “ the city re- nowned for saints, 55 is 30 M. from Dublin. It pos- sesses the ruins of a cathedral ; and the Chapel of St. Brigid, called the “Eire House 55 because it is the sup- posed location of the fire which nuns kept burning night and day for a thousand years “ for the benefit of poor strangers, 55 is still shown. The “ Curragh, 55 an ancient race-course, and now used as a military encampment and practice ground for soldiers, is just beyond Kil- dare. Sham fights are sometimes given there in the summer months. Near Hazelhatch station is Celbridge Abbey , once the residence of Swift’s “ Yanessa. 55 Dublin and Vicinity. Two days can be spent to advantage in visiting Dub- lin, provided the weather be fair. May, June, and August are excellent months for the visit. But the hurried tourist can manage to secure a tolerable idea of the Irish capital by a ride of 3-4 hrs. on a jaunting-car, or by half a day’s leisurely walk. Dublin (Shelbourne Hotel ; Gresham , good but rather dear; Morrison's , Hibernian ; Imperial ; European ; Abbey ; Royal Com- IRELAND. 15 mercial; Edinburgh , temperance) is a city of 250,000 inliab., on the river Liffey, which divides ~ it into two nearly equal parts, and, shortly below the town, widens into a fine bay, on one side of which rises the Hill of Howth, and on the other Killiney Hill, near Kingstown. Those who do not dread sudden showers should engage an open car bv the hr. (Is. 4d. for first hr., and 6d. for each additional ^ hr.), and drive to the Bank of Ireland, Trinity College, Dublin Castle, Christ’s Church Cathe- dral, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, the General Post-Office, Nelson’s Monument, the Custom House, the Pour Courts, and finally to Phoenix Park. This will enable one to judge pretty well of the main exterior attrac- tions. The shops in Dublin are quite as fine as those of London. The fine mall of Sackville-St., with its cut- granite Doric column to Nelson, 121 ft. high, is impos- ing, from Carlisle Bridge. The Liffey is navigable to this bridge ; but no large vessels come above the Custom House, the finest building in the city. It is a handsome quadrangular structure, the principal front of which faces the river. Notice the allegorical compo- sition in the central portico. It represents Britannia and Hibernia in a marine shell, a group of merchant* men approaching, and Neptune driving away famine and despair. The dome is 120 ft. high, and bears on its summit a statue of Hope. Prom Nelson’s Monument , a good view of the city and suburbs may be obtained. Fee for ascent, 6d. The status of the hero is the work of a native sculptor, Thomas Kirk ; and the sum of <£6,856, which the memorial cost, was raised by subscription among Nelson’s Irish admirers. The General Post- Office has a majestic Ionic portico, surmounted by figures of Hibernia, Mercury, and Fidelity. The Four Courts, on King’s Inn Quay, is the name of a handsome building, in which are the Courts 16 DUBLIN. of Queen’s Bench, Chancery, Exchequer, and Common Pleas. It was begun on the site of an old Dominican monastery in 1776, and was completed just at the time of the union of the two nations. Cost about ,£200,000. The fapade on the river is 450 ft. long. The great cir- cular hall in the centre is lighted by jets of gas, which issue from a torch borne in the hands of a gigantic figure of Truth. New buildings for the accommodation of the Land Courts have recently been erected near by. Phcenix Park contains 1,750 acres, fairly well laid out. Interesting reviews of troops are sometimes held there. Monuments in the Park. — The Wellington Tes- timonial, erected in 1817, at a cost of £20,000, by the Iron Duke’s fellow- townsmen of Dublin. This quadrangular, truncated obelisk of Wicklow granite has sunken panels on each side of its pedestal, contain- ing relievos in metal, three representing military pieces and the fourth containing the laurel-crowned head of the hero himself. The battles in which the Duke took part are inscribed here, and the bas-reliefs are made from captured cannon. — The Carlisle Memorial Statue , by Foley, in commemoration of Lord Carlisle’s 8 years of vice-regency, On the r., near the entrance of the park, is the Military Hospital, and a little farther on the Constabulary Barracks, Within the park limits the Lord-Lieutenant has a summer residence. Zoological Garden (admission, Is. ; on Sun., 2d.), not far away. On the S. side of the river Liffey, and passing from Carlisle Bridge, through Westmoreland- St., at the E. side of which there is a statue of Tom Moore, one comes to the Bank of Ireland, in College Green. This was once used as the Parliament House. It was com- pleted in 1787, at a cost of £95,000, but was purchased in 1802 by the company of the Bank of Ireland for £40,000 and an annual rental of £2 40. The entrance IRELAND. 17 to the former House of Lords was by a portico on the E. side. The House of Lords (visitors admitted) re- mains unaltered, except that a statue of George III. occupies the site of the throne. Old tapestries, rep- resenting the “ Siege of Derry ” and “ King William Crossing the Boyne,” are worthy of notice, as is also the mantel-piece of Kilkenny marble. Directly oppo- site the bank is Trinity College ; and on either side of the entrance to it are the famous Statues of Goldsmith and Burke , by Eoley. Trinity was founded in Pope John XXII.’s time, and was closed in Henry VIII.’s. reign, but opened again by Elizabeth, who erected it into a corporation. In 1627 a new code of laws was framed for it. Tiie civil wars of the Protectorate brought its- fortunes to a low ebb ; but James I. and Charles II. endowed it liberally. The institution, which is open to all creeds, usually assembles about 1,400 students, and has educated some of the most renowned of modern wits. The Museum contains Brian Boroihme’s harp and the charter-horn of . King O’Kavanagh ; the noble dining- hall is decorated with portraits of Grattan, Lord Avon- more, Chief Justice Downs, Elood, Lord Kil warden,. Prince Frederick, father of George III., and Lord Cairns. Hewitson’s fine monument to Provost Bald- win, in the building on the r. of the first courtyard, should be seen. The library contains nearly 300, 00D volumes, and in the E. end is a very valuable collection known as the “Eagel Library.” Note the Geological Museum and Lecture Rooms , in College Park. On College Green there is an equestrian statue in lead of' William III., erected in 1701 ; and a statue of Grattan. Dublin Castle requires but slight notice. Nearly all trace of its original design is now lost. The Vice- regal Chapel and Apartments, St. Patrick’s Hall, the Portrait Chamber, and the Private Drawing Boom are - 2 18 DUBLIN. ■shown by ine attendants for small gratuities, except during “ the season.” The stained-glass windows of the chapel contain the arms of all the Lord-Lieutenants. Good music in this chapel Sunday forenoons. Band plays in the courtyard mornings. St. Patrick’s Cathedral occupies the site of a reli- gious edifice built by St. Patrick himself, near the well in which he baptized his converts. The present build- ing was begun by Archbishop Comyn in 1190, and restored and much improved, after the destruction of a portion of it by fire, under the care of Archbishop Minot, in 1370. Monuments worth notice inside: one to Boyle, Earl of Cork ; and one to the Duke of Bchomberg, with an epitaph by Swift, who was long Dean of the cathedral. Two marble slabs mark the resting-places of Swift and his “ Stella ” (Mrs. Hester Johnson). Sir B. L. Guinness, the brewer, had the cathedral repaired and restored in 1860-63, at a cost of £140,000. The Lady Chapel was used by George IY. as Chapter House for the Knights of St. Patrick. Christ’s Church Cathedral is of ancient founda- tion ; but the present structure is comparatively modern. It was first erected in 1038, and enlarged in later days by Strongbow and Eitzstephen, and still later by Ray- mond-le-Gros. It was in Christ Church that the lit- urgy was first read in Ireland in the English tongue. Note Earl Strongbow’s monumental tomb. The local guides will tell you the various conflicting reports con- cerning its authenticity. This edifice, like St. Patrick’s, owes its restoration to a vender of strong drink, w*ho expended £200,000 on it. Stephen's Green is a hand- some square surrounded with fine mansions. On the W. side is the Royal College of Surgeons , erected in 1806-25. Museum: good collection. E. side: Royal College of Science. In centre of Green, a statue of IRELAND. 19 George II., by Yan Nast. S. side : the Catholic Uni- versity, the palace of the Archbishop of Dublin, and the Shelbourne Hotel. On Earlsfort Terrace is the pal- ace in which the Dublin Exhibition of 1872 was held. It was purchased by Sir Arthur and E. C. Guinness, and devoted to the public benefit. It contains one concert hall capable of seating 3,000 persons. Other Interesting Sights in Dublin. — The Royal Hibernian Academy , erected in 1824? for the promotion of the fine arts (exhibition opens in February ; closes in July). The National Gallery, with a statue of Dargan in front on the N. side of Leinster Lawn. Merrion- Row and Merrion-St. : the house in which Wellington was born in 1769 ; and at 30 Merrion- Square, the mansion where Daniel O’Connell resided for some years. Birthplace of Tom Moore, 12 Aungier-St. Royal Dublin Society , and King's and Queen's College of Physicians , in Kildare-St. The City Hall , with Hagan’s statue of O’Connell inside. The Corn Ex- change , the meeting-place of the National Council in 1832, and of the Repeal Association later on. Con- ciliation Hall , now a corn store, but the scene of many of O’Connell’s triumphs. Theatre Royal , Hawkins-St. The Poplin Manufactories : Dublin poplins are famous ; and the industry is rapidly reviving. Excursions from Dublin. — To Glasn^vin Cem- etery , where are graves and fine monuments of O’Con- nell, Steele, and Curran, 2 M. from the city. Botanic Gardens , near by. — Dublin to Howth : Several trains daily. Distance, 9 M. The peninsular Hill of Howth is the first landmark sighted on approaching Dublin from the sea. The route leads past Clontarf the seene of Brian Boroihme’s last* victory over the Danes, to Howth, a pleasant village on the hill. From the har- bor an excursion in boat may be made to the island of 20 DROGHEDA. — BRAY. “ Ireland’s Bye.” Boatman’s fee, 2s. The Abbey of Howth is pleasantly located on a steep overhanging the ocean. On the Hill of Howth stands an ancient Cromlech , a huge oblong stone, about 14x12, supported on numerous others. It is supposed to be a portion of a sepulchral monument to a departed chief. — Malahide ( Royal Hotel '), 9 M. from Dublin, has a notable castle and abbey. The altar-tomb in the ruined abbey is a memorial of the sad history of the lady who in one day was ££ maid, wife, and widow,” — the daughter of Lord Plunkett. — Drogheda ( Im- perial Hotel), 1^ hrs. by rail from Dublin. This was the first place attacked by Cromwell in 1649, and was carried by assault, led by the Protector himself. Drogheda was also the scene of the ££ Battle of the Boyne,” fought, July 1, 1690, between the Prince of Orange and his father-in-law, James II. An obelisk 150 ft. high marks the spot where William began the attack and where Schomberg fell. Prom Drogheda, Tara and Kells may be visited. From I) Min to Bray and the Wicklow Mts. is a charming excursion. Bray, 12 M. from Dublin ( Ma- rine Hotel; International ), beautifully situated; head- quarters for trips to the Dargle (car, 2s.), to the Waterfall (car, 4s.), to the Glen of the Downs (car, 3s. 6d.), to Greystones (car, 4s. 6d.). Prom Bray to the Devil’s Glen, the Seven Churches, and the Vale of Avoca, where C£ the bright waters meet,” is a prof- itable journey. Go by rail from Bray to Rathnew Stat., from Rathnew by car to Devil’s Glen, from Devil’s Glen by car to the ££ Meeting of the Waters,” in all about 38 M., and return by rail to Bray, 28 M. — From Bray to Wicklow , along the coast by rail, — desirable journey in bright weather. The Wicklow Mt. section is rich in quiet beauty ; the rly. fares along IRELAND. 21 the coast are moderate, and car-drivers must be held to the tariff. Purchase one of the excellent local guides, for descriptions of the scenery. If the tourist decides to go to Wales and England via Dublin and Holyhead, he can go to Holyhead via the North Wall route for 8s. or 4s., or via Kings- town for 12s. or 8s. We think most American tour- ists prefer the latter route. By rail from Dublin to Kingstown, 6 M.; thence across the Irish Channel, 66 M., 4 hrs. There are two through services to London daily, — one leaving Dublin at 6.45. evening ; the other at 6.45, morning. Tourists who wish to make the jour- ney by day would better go to Kingstown in the even- ing, and sleep on the boat which is to start next morning. This will cost 2s. extra. Then they can breakfast at their leisure, — if the Irish Channel leaves them any leisure. Kingstown (Royal Marine Hotel ; Anglesea Arms) is so called because George IY. landed there on a visit to Ireland. An obelisk commemorates the royal land- ing. The refuge harbor embraces an area of 250 acres. Before the present admirable system of “ Irish Lights was completed, many serious accidents to shipping oc- curred near Kingstown. We give a few fares from various points in Ireland to the starting-points in England via Kingstown, as tourists’ plans vary widely. Pare from Queenstown direct to Liverpool, Birkenhead, or Chester, 48s., 35s. 6d ; from Queenstown to London direct, 69s. 6cL,. 52s; from Dublin to London direct, 60s., 45s; from Dublin to Liverpool, Chester, or Birkenhead, 30s., 22s. 6d.; from Dublin to Manchester, 33s. 6d., 25s. The fares to all these places via the North Wall route to Holyhead from Dublin are considerably lower, — from Queenstown to Chester, via North Wall, 38s. ? 22 MAYNOOTH. — AUBURN. 28s.; from Dublin to Chester or Liverpool, via North Wall, 20s., 15s. 1 If the weather is fine, some interesting views on the Irish and Welsh coasts may be had during the crossing to Holyhead. The mail packets, Ulster , Munster , Leinster , and Connaught , are remarkably strong, swift, and spacious. From Dublin to Galway. This route takes ene from the E. to the “ wild west -coast,” in 5^ hrs. (fares, 23s. 8d., 19s. 8d., 11s. 10d.); distance, 126| M. Glasnevin, where Addison, Swift, Tickell, Sheridan, and other celebrities resided; and Maynoofch, where there is a castle erected in 1426 by the Earl of Kildare, and the Royal College of St. Pat- rick, — are interesting. At Mullingar are the remains of an Augustine priory. Athlone is an important mili- tary station. Not far from here the Shannon is crossed by a magnificent bridge. Just beyond Woodlawn, the •Connemara Mts. become visible to the r. Athenry is an ancient town, with ruined castellated gates, walls, and religious establishments. At Oranmore a view of Galway Bay and the Islands of Arran may be obtained. Erom Athlone a car may be taken to Auburn , 8 M. ^fare, 6d. per M.). Auburn is “The Deserted Village ” of Goldsmith, and its real name is Lishoy ; but since the famous Oliver gave it the name of Auburn, it has always retained it. The most interesting relic in the village is 1 The summer tourist in Ireland will find it to his advan- tage to purchase the monthly time-tables (price, 2d.) of the London and Northwestern, and Midland Rlys. These ex- cellent books contain a great variety of information about circular tours in Ireland, in connection with the above-men- tioned lines. IRELAND. 23 the ruined parsonage, where the Rev. Charles Goldsmith,, the original of Dr. Primrose in the “ Vicar of Wake- field/ 5 struggled for the maintenance of his large family. Galway ( Railway Hotel , at the station ; Royal ) is a quaint old town, rather Spanish in appearance, with wide gateways, broad stairs, and many other evidences* of the predominance of Spanish ideas in former times. For a long period during and after the 14th century, ex- tensive trade was carried on between Spain and Galway,, and Irish merchants made frequent and protracted visits to Spain. Some of the residences of the mer- chant princes of old days are now tenement houses, occu- pied by the very poorest and lowest class. Queen’s College is a handsome Gothic structure, built of gray limestone. Galway Bay is the finest in Ireland and the distance to St. Johns, Newfoundland, is 1,636* M. The Western Highlands of Connemara, and the County Clare, including the region rendered famous by the troubles of landlords and tenants in the last few years, abound in fine scenery. The road from Galway to Clifden and Westport, 88 M. (car fares about 14s. 6d.), passes through the most at- tractive part of the region. W estport ( Railway Hotel; Connemara) is a pretty town; and the domain of the Marquis of Sligo should be visited. See Clare Island , the ancient residence of Grace. O’Malley. Dublin to Belfast, Portrush, The Giant’s Causeway, etc. In leaving Dublin for this excursion, the traveller must consider whether he intends to return to Dublin and cross to England via Kingstown and Holyhead, or to cross from Belfast to Glasgow or Liverpool or Fleetwood. If he means to come back to Dublin, let him 24 GIANT’S CAUSEWAY. proceed thence directly to Portrush, which is the nearest station to The Giant’s Causeway , Dunluce Castle , etc. The fare to Portrush (180 M.) is 32s., 23s. 8d., 14s. 9d. The route is by Mala hide ; The Skerries , where St. Patrick is said to have taken shelter when he was pursued by the Druids; Balbriggan , famous for its stocking factories; Drogheda; Dundalk, where Edward Bruce was crowned King of Ireland ; Porta- down Junction ; Lurgan, a flourishing town engaged in linen manufactories ; Belfast ; Antrim, not far from Lough Neagh ; and Coleraine, long noted for the fine- ness of its linens. Portrush {Northern Counties Raihcay ; Osborne's ; Leek's ; Portrush) is a pleasant watering-place. The Causeway may be reached by the electric tramway passing through Bushmills , or by jaunting-car. On the way the tourist passes Dunluce Castle, unques- tionably one of the most picturesque ruins in Europe. It is 3 M. from Portrush, on an insulated rock about 100 ft. above the sea. The surface of the rock is en- tirely covered by the ruins of what must have been an impregnable stronghold. A single wall, not more than 18 inches broad, connects the castle with the mainland. Sea view very fine here. Fee, 6d to Is., according to size of party. “ The White Rocks,” in which there are many fantastic caverns, are not far from Dunluce. The Giant’s Causeway. — Oii arriving engage guide at the Causeway Hotel. The basaltic rocks are abundant along the coast here, but the most interesting formations occur between Portcoon Cave, on the W., and Dunseverick Castle' on the E. If the tourist has time, lie should take the circuit first in a boat, and then visit the more important of the curiosities by land. See the Causeways, Little, Middle, and Great; the Giant’s Gateway ; Giant’s Organ; Chimney Tops; the IRELAND. 25 Priest and his Flock ; the Pleaskin ; and the Hen and Chickens. There is a route from the Giant’s Causeway to Belfast by the coast road, recommended only to those in no hurry. A whole day must be given to the trip from Portrush to the Causeway and return. Londonderry ‘(Jury's Hotel; Imperial ; Commer- cial ; City ; Northern ) is on the river Foyle. Memorials of the historic “ Siege of Derry ” are numerous. Ascend the tower of the Cathedral. The old walls of the town are still preserved as a promenade. From London- derry to Portrush it is 2 hrs. by rail (7s. 6d., 5s. 6d. } 3s. 8d.); from Portrush to Belfast it is 3-4 hrs. (12s., 8s., 5s. Id.). Belfast [Imperial ; Prince of Wales ; Royal) will re- mind American visitors of some of our own thriving manufacturing tow T ns ; and the contrast between its smartness and vivacity and the dulness and languor of cities in the South of Ireland will be remarked at once. In 40 years the population has increased from 87,000 to 260,000. Two-thirds of the inhabitants are Protes- tants. The town stands on the property of the Mar- quis of Donegal ; and it is said that but for long leases granted by the former proprietor, the income of that no- bleman from the town alone would amount to <£300,000. Belfast is situated on the Lagan, near the elongated bay known as Belfast Lough. The port is 130 M. from Glasgow, and 156 M. from Liverpool. The Irish name of the town signifies “ the mouth of the ford.” The new docks are very fine. On the Queen’s Island is an iron shipbuilding yard, employing nearly 2,000 hands. The White Star steamships are built there. Buildings to notice : Presbyterian Ch., Rose- mary-St. ; Royal Academical Institution and Govern- ment School of Art ; Commercial Buildings; Ulster Bank ; Belfast Bank ; Custom House , High-St., and 26 BELFAST. Albert Square ; the Harbor Office ; the Linen Hall y with the Belfast Library ; Queen’s College , reached by the Botanic Road ; Presbyterian College , University Square ; Methodist College . Other things to see : Bo- tanic Gardens , the Cooke statue , Belfast Museum , and The Flax Mills and Linen Warehouses. Visitors are readily admitted to most of the mills. Excursions from Belfast. — To Cave Hill ; to the Giant’s Ring ; to Dundalk ; to Bangor , the cldef water- ing-place for the inhabitants of Belfast ; and to Lord Dufierin’s estate of Clandeboye , 9 M. from the city. The traveller now has his choice of various routes for leaving Ireland. If he desires to go direct from Belfast to Greenock or Glasgow, he can do so by the Royal Mail Steamship Line, daily service (Sun. ex- cepted); time, 8 hrs.; fare, 12s. 6d. The routes by sea from Belfast to Liverpool and to London can only be recommended to those who have a passion for sea travel. Bare to Liverpool, 12s. 6d.; to London, 25s. A boat leaves Belfast every evening (Si n. excepted), at 7.1 5, for Barrow -in-Furness ; fare, 12s. 6d. Through tickets to London (15s. 6d. or 21s. 3d., by the Mid- land Rly., 1st and 3d class only) are also sold, by this Barrow route, from various points along which the English Lake Region may be visited. Ireland covers 32,393 square M., a little less than Maine, South Carolina, and Indiana ; and has upwards of 5,000,000 inhab., f of whom are Roman Catholics. It was Christianized by St. Patrick, in 132. Perpetual civil wars raged from the 8th to the 12th century. In 1172 England conquered much of Ireland, and discon- tent has been chronic ever since. NORTH WALES. 27 NORTH WALES. TTOLYHEAD (Pr. of Wales) affords a picturesque introduction to some of the most romantic por- tions of Wales. Those not obliged to proceed at once to Chester, Liverpool, or London, can spend 2-R days with pleasure and profit at points along the line. Holyhead stands on Holy Island , divided by a small strait from Anglesea, and takes its name from a mon- astery founded in the 6th century. Good view from the hill of the rocky shores, the harbor of refuge, and the massive breakwater. The promontory of the head is hollowed by the ocean into caverns, which afford shelter to myriads of seafowl. There are important Ho- man remains here. The Ch. was erected in Edward III.’s time. The neighboring island of Anglesea, rich in minerals, was a principal seat of Druidical super- stition. It was conquered with the rest of Wales by Edward I. The Britannia Tubular Bridge , one of the. wonders of Great Britain, is crossed about 21 M. from Holyhead. This, as well as the Menai Bridge, may be visited from Bangor. Engineers will be interested in the Conway and Britannia bridges, and in noting how the idea that budded in the first structure has fully blossomed in the later and larger one. See Smiles’s “ Lives of the Engineers ’’ for a description of the man- ner in which the two Stephensons worked out their thought ; how “ the great originator of the railway system watched with pleased attention the processes by whicli the son made quite certain of each step.” The vast tubes were not placed where they now rest without enormous painstaking and trouble. One of the spans is 472 ft. in length, and, as it is composed 28 BANGOR. entirely of iron, expands and contracts with the changes of temperature. To meet the difficulty, the ends of the tubes rest on movable rollers, and thus maintain the line of rail perfect. The Britannia Bridge 1 is more than 100 ft. above the water-level. The Menai Suspension Bridge , 1 M. nearer Bangor, is also a stu- pendous work. Its greatest span from point to point Is 560 ft., and its elevation above the water-way at the highest tide is 100 ft. It is the longest suspension bridge in England or Wales. It was built in the old coaching days, in the early part of the century. After crossing this bridge, you have left the island of An- glesea and are on the mainland. Bangor (George Hotel ; British ; 'Williams' Temper - from which point Snowdon (3,571 ft. high) may be 1 Caernarvon Castle, says an historian, is a “ stupendous monument of ancient grandeur.” It occupies the whole W. end of the town. Some years ago it seemed as if fast going to ruin ; its ivy-clad walls appeared to be yielding to the ravages of time, yet withal retaining a romantic singularity of their own ; and in 1828 the Eagle Tower — the largest of all — was struck by lightning, which cracked the w^lls sev- eral yards, and displaced large masses of stone. But great pains have since been taken to restore the fabric ; and it stands before us to-day a grand and beautiful structure. On two sides it is washed by the sea, on the third it was of yore protected by a ditch, and on the fourth it was shut in by the town. Caernarvon is probably only about J M. from the site of Segontium , the principal Roman station in North Wales. The castle became the headquarters of the English after the Conquest by Edward, and here he had the treasury for the taxes exacted from his Welsh subjects. The Eagle Tower — so named from the figure of the bird standing on the summit — occupies one end of the oblong court, and has three turrets rising from it. NORTH WALES. 31 ascended, is reached by rail from Caernarvon. Llanberis and Nant Ffrancon are two of the finest passes in Wales, and the latter is especially beautiful. The road through it winds under frowning precipices ; and Lake OgweiTs inky-black water breaks through a chasm in the rock into numerous cascades, some of them 100 ft. high, that find their way into the rich vale extending N. to Bethesda and Bangor. A good trip would be from Bangor to Caernarvon; thence to Llanberis and through the Pass to Capel Curig; thence to Bettws- y-Coed, the “ Station in the Wood/’ a delicious sylvan retreat, where Coe painted some of his most beautiful pictures. Near by are the Falls of the Conway. Returning to the main line, the tourist will find but two or three other points worthy notice between Con- way and Chester. Abergele {Bee Hotel ) is near Cave Hill, where there is a fine natural cavern ; and the mt.-pass in which the Welsh defeated Harold and, later on, massacred the troops of Henry II. Mrs. Hemans lived for many years at Abergele. In 1868 a frightful rly. accident, by wdiich 33 persons were burned to death, occurred near this stat. Rhyl {Queen's Hotel ; Bel voir) is a pretty watering-place. A branch rly. runs thence to the little Welsh cathedral-town of St. Asaph; and to Denbigh, a venerable hill-town with many very quaint old houses, and a stately ruined castle, on the hill. At Holywell the famous St. Wini- fred’s Well is to be seen. Flint Castle , on a rock by the sea, was once the prison of Richard II. 13 M. beyond the train crosses the Dee, leaving Wales. 32 CHESTER. ENGLAND. ^JHESTER (Grosvenor Hotel; Queen’s, at the rly. stat, ; Blossom’s ; and others more or less good). The curious features of this delightful town may be seen in a single day (or, with the aid of a carriage, in 3-4 hrs.). The traveller who has not already made up his mind should here decide whether he will go directly to London, or N. to the English Lakes, and thence to Scotland. To those, who contemplate making an ex- tensive tour on the Continent, and returning to the British Islands only late in September or October, we would recommend a trip from Chester to Liverpool, and thence, after having seen the sights in that city and in Chester and vicinity, direct to the English Lakes and Scotch mts. But many persons will probably like to go to London and the Continent at once, for a season, returning N. in August and resuming our English and Scotch itinerary from Chester or Liverpool. Ancient Chester, on its pretty eminence, is suffi- ciently quaint and filled with ruins to satisfy the most curious of Transatlantic travellers. Some kind of town existed on this site before the Roman invasion, but it was the Romans who made the definite foundation. 'They chose this place as one of their principal military stations, called it the “ City of the Legions,” and made it the castra of the Twentieth Legion. Vast walls still occupy the same ground and carry out the identical plan chosen and arranged by the Roman leaders. Chester was laid waste in the early part of the 7th century by jEthelfrith, King of the Northumbrians : and then the memorials of the Roman sojourn were greatly injured. Eor nearly three centuries Chester lay in ruins. In ENGLAND. 33 907 Alfred the Great’s daughter, Ethelfleda, restored, the ruined walls which the Danes had from time to time used as temporary strongholds ; and from that day Chester became important in English history. It was the very last city to hold out against William the Conqueror; and a nephew of the great Norman was made Earl of Chester, and built a castle there. Ches- ter was especially prominent in the Civil War as the first city to declare for Charles, and the last to yield to the Parliamentary forces. A Walk around the Old Walls may be begun at East Gate, near the Grosvenor or Blossom’s Hotel. Going N. one comes first, to the Cathedral (described below). Next beyond it, at the angle of the walls where they turn W. to the North Gate , is the Phoenix Tower , on which Charles I. stood during the battle of Rowton Moor and gazed on the defeat of his army, Sept. 24, 1645. See inscription. Under the walls at this point is the Shropshire Union Canal, cut in the solid rock. Moving on towards the North. Gate, the original Roman walls, terminating in a cor- nice 6 ft. below the parapet, may be seen. Erom this gate there is an extensive view of the Welsh mts. and of Waverton and Christleton ehs. Just outside the gate is an ancient Blue Coat Hospital. A little far- ther on, from a square building on the r. side of the wall, there is a view of the river and the sea, Flint Castle, the Training College, etc. Another tower, once known as the Goblin’s, but now called Pember- ton’s Parlor, comes next. It beais a mutilated inscrip- tion about the “ glorious reign of Anne.” The Water Tower , as its name indicates, was once closely ap- proached by ships ; but the river is now a long way from the walls. This part of the fortifications was bombarded by Cromwell in 1645. Within the tower 34 CHESTER. is a museum ; on its summit, a telescope. See railway viaduct and iron bridge over the Dee, near this point. The City Jail is an imposing structure. From the Water Gate note the Rhoodee race-course, and beyond the river the fine villas of Curzon Park. Grosvenor Bridge, which spans the stream, has a span of 200 ft. Over the river, in Edgar's Field , is a statue of Pallas. The Castle , next approached, is a noble pile, erected in the last century on the site of the ancient one. “ Caesar’s Tower ” is the only remnant of the old structure. See near the Castle the Combermere Monument and the Shire Hall. Drill in the Castle yard afternoons. Walk on over the Bridge Gate , rebuilt in 1782, to New Gate (1608), and thence to East Gate. Outside the walls, between Bridge and East Gates, is the Ch. of St. John the Baptist, founded in 689, and rebuilt in 1574. * The Cathedral was begun in the 12th century, and the choir and central tower were finished in the early years of the 13th. The lady chapel, refectory, and chapter-house are said to have been constructed 1200-1230. Many portions were greatly altered in the period between 1485 and 1537. The ch. is almost entirely built of red sandstone, plentiful in the district. The restorations carried on for several years past have proved highly successful. The E. portion is an excellent example of Early English style. The choir is betiutiful : note the Gothic work at the sides ; also the richly carven Gothic screen of stone, which separates the nave from the choir ; the bishop’s throne, formed by the shrine of St. Werburgh of miraculous mem- ory ; and the black and white marble pavement in the choir. The W. front, though unfinished, is the best. The lector’s pulpit in the refectory ; the colors of the 22d Cheshire regiment, carried at Bunker Hill, in the ENGLAND. 35 chapter-house ; and the great W. window of the nave, should be remarked. The stained-glass windows are modern. The cathedral’s interior is not so imposing as its exterior. Tradition says that a Roman temple to Apollo once stood on the site. The foundation of two towers, never completed, was laid in 1508. The Rows, covered avenues or galleries through the fronts of the second stories of the houses in Eastgate, Watergate, Northgate, and Bridge Sts. (the old Roman ways), are one of the most striking features of Chester. 1 Old Houses , remarkable for their curious carvings and for historical associations, are very numerous in Chester. Note the palace of the Earls of Derby, near the Water Gate ; and on Lower Bridge-St., leading from Bridge Gate, the house in which Charles I. resided during the siege. A Roman sweating-bath may be seen in one of the houses of the Bridge-St. Row. There are several Roman crypts, a thousand years old, beneath the an- cient buildings. Eaton Hall, one of the country-seats of the Duke of Westminster, is 3 M. from Chester. Tickets of ad- mission to the grounds and mansion may be had for 1 Pennant says : “ These Rotes appear to me to have been the same with the ancient vestibules, and could have been a form of building preserved from the time that the city was possessed by the Romans. They were the places where de- pendants watched for the coming out of their patrons, and in which they might walk away the tedious minutes of expecta- tion. Plautus, in the third act of his Most ell aria, describes both their station and use. The shops beneath the Rows were the cryptse and apothecse, magazines for the various necessaries of the owners of the houses/’ Many of the Rows to-day form two terraces, the shops one above the other, the galleries being reached by flights of steps at convenient distances. 36 LIVERPOOL. a small sum at the Grosvenor Hotel and of the news- dealers. The house is an elaborate structure, with a great number of pinnacles and turrets, and is 460 ft. long. The walk thither, over Grosvenor Bridge and through the Park, entering bj a gateway copied from the Abbey Gate at Canterbury, is very interesting. The marble floor in the entry alone cost 1,600 guineas. There are a few noticeable paintings at Eaton Hall. Liverpool. Erom Chester important lines of railway radiate in all directions. The traveller may proceed to Liver- pool, via Runcorn, crossing the celebrated Runcorn Bridge 1 and its viaducts, and arriving at the Lime-St. terminus of the London and Northwestern Railway (fare, 3s. ; time, a little more than half an hour) ; or he may go from Chester to Birkenhead, and cross from this latter place to Liverpool by ferry (time and fare about the same, but scenery uninteresting) ; or he may walk through Eastham, Bebington, etc., to Rock Eerry, and there cross to Liverpool. We recommend the walk to Chester from Liverpool for those who have made their first entry into Europe at the great seaport. If Liverpool has somewhat shocked their aesthetic sense, and disappointed their expectations of romance in Europe, Chester will re-establish their enthusiasm. 1 The entire length of this structure is 2J M. The bridge is approached upon the Runcorn Viaduct, carried by 33 arches, I of 23 ft. span, 29 of 40 ft. span, and 3 of 61 ft. span. The viaduct is carried over the river Mersey at s height of 80 ft. by 3 girders of 305 ft. span, each supported upon 4 castellated piers, stretching over a distance of 27§ chains. The total cost of the structure was £422,400, of which £41,800 was paid for land. ENGLAND. 37 Liverpool (Hotels: Adelphi ; Northwestern Rail- way ; Grand ; Washington ; Imperial ; Waterloo ; Americans will find the Adelphi, Northwestern, and Grand best suited for them) is the port at which most tourists from the United States first land. It is a city of over 650,000 inhab., the second seaport in the United Kingdom, and possesses the finest docks in the world. See the “ Chapter for Travellers ” for in- structions as to Landing at Liverpool. Liverpool is essentially a modern town. In 1561 it was a hamlet ; in 1644 Prince Rupert called it “ a crow’s nest ” ; but in 1871 it numbered half a million. Liverpool’s im- portance dates from the upspringing of the cotton manufacture in England. There have been years in which the value of its exports has been twice as great as that of the exports from London ; 30,000 seamen constantly throng its quays. Its public buildings are as new as those of American cities. There is scarcely one older than the present century. 1 1 “ Liverpool is not even mentioned in the list of towns in the Doomsday Book of the Norman invaders. It is spoken of for the first time in 1172, when Henry II. made the con- quest of Ireland, and embarked his ships in the Mersey Towards 1700 its population was hardly 5,000. T® block- up of the Dee at Chester profited Liverpool ; and its mer- chants began to get rich, above all in the slave trade. As the painter Fuseli said, when he was asked to admire the great streets, ‘ the blood of the negroes seems to have fil- tered through these carven stones.’ The city occupies the geographical centre between Great Britain and Ireland. It is the only point of convergence for domestic exchange be- tween the British Islands. This central position is also an 38 LIVERPOOL. The Docks, some parts of which may be seen from the steamers ascending the Mersey, deserve a careful visit. Liverpool lies on the r. bank of the river Mersey ; opposite it is the important town of Birkenhead ; and the “ silent highway ” between is thronged with ships from every part of the globe. The dock system which lines the Mersey begins at the Herculaneum Graving Dock, at the extreme S. end of the town. From the S. point of this to the N. part of the Hornby Dock, the other end of the system, is a distance of 6 M. All the intervening space is filled with docks and quays, two and sometimes three deep. The Canning, Salthouse, George’s, King’s, Queen’s, and Brunswick Docks, and the Queen’s and Prince’s Half- Tide Basins, were constructed between 1717 and 1816. In the King’s Dock and warehouses are stored and bonded immense quantities of leaf tobacco and cigars. Bailways communicate by tunnels directly with the dock system. The total quay space of the Liverpool docks a year or two ago was 17 M.; of the basins, 8 M.; and the total water area of the docks, 277 acres. The Prince s Landing Stage, at which passengers from and to America disembark and depart, is a noble work. It is said that nearly | of the trade of the port is with the United States. The town possesses ^ of the shipping of Great Britain, of the foreign trade, £ of the gen- eral commerce, and more than \ as much trade as the port of Loudon. In 1867 the customs dues amounted advantage for foreign commerce, which has chosen Liverpool for its depot. Farther than Bristol from the high sea, which is the road to America, Africa, and the Indies, Liverpool overcomes this inferiority by the advantage which she has in being close to the border of a coal basin, which has become the principal seat of all the manufactures of the entire world.” ( Elisee Reclus^ ENGLAND. 39 to <£3,620,409, and the cotton imported to 2,250,500 bales. St. George’s Hall is one of the most conspicuous objects in Liverpool. It is a vast and imposing struc- ture, completed in 1851, and contains the Assize Courts, an immense hall for public meetings, and a concert room. The portico on the S. is very fine. It surmounts a pedestal of noble steps, 150 ft. wide, ter- minating in a pediment, the tympanum of which is enriched by sculptures representing Britannia offering the olive branch, with the lion at her side and the Mersey flowing at her feet. Mercury is represented as leading to her from the other side Asia, Europe, Africa, and America. In the great hall is one of the largest organs in the world, with 108 stops and 8,000 pipes. See the bronze doors which lead to the Crown Court. In front of St. George’s Hall are statues of the Prince Consort and Queen Victoria. Four stone lions guard the principal entrance to the area between the hall and Lime-St. Not far away is the Alexandra Theatre. The Wellington Monument , cast from cannon taken at Waterloo, is also near St. George’s. Hall. A little to the N. is Brown 8 Free Fuhlic Library and Museum., built at the expense of the late Sir William Brown. Near by is the Walker Art Gallery. The Municipal Offices , in Dale-St. ; the Town Hall ; the Exchange, which covers two acres-, in die commer- cial quarter, are handsome edifices. On the Exchange Flags, where the merchants meet, stands a bronze statue of Nelson, by Westmacott, St. John's Market T a vast structure, is on Great Charlotte-St. The Cus- tom House and Host -Office, at the junction of Strand- St. and Wapping, has beneath it extensive vaults for the storing of goods in bond. See the Sailors' Home , close by. 40 LIVERPOOL. Other Objects of Interest in Liverpool. — The Botanic Gardens , in Edge Lane. The Corn Exchange , on Brunswick-St, St. Nicholas' Ch., the only real an- tiquity in Liverpool. The original chapel was built in the time of William the Conqueror. In old times a statue of St. Nicholas, patron of mariners, stood in the yard. The ch. was restored in 1774. The tower facing the S. side was erected as one of a series of “ signal steeples.” Prince's and Sta?iley Parks ; from the latter a good view of the sea and the Cumberland hills. St. James's Cemetery , formerly a stone quarry, and filled for its present purpose at an expense of £20,000. The Mausoleum of Huskisson is here. Sefton Park , purchased at a cost of £450,000 from the Earl of Sef- ton. Liverpool has expended vast sums the past few years on street improvements ; but the poor quarter is still horribly unhealthy. A walk through it should be undertaken only in the daylight hours. Estates and Residences of Noblemen near Liverpool : Kn owsley Hall, owned by the Earl of Derby (see the Stanley portraits there) ; Croxteth Hall, the Earl of Sefton’s seat ; Child wall Abbey, a residence of the Marquis of Salisbury. Excursions may be made from Liverpool to New Brighton , down the river by ferry-boat from the George’s Landing stage ; and to Eastham , a pretty pleasure-resort. 1 1 “The cities crowded together in the neighborhood of Liverpool and Birkenhead are very numerous. In an angle of Cheshire is New Brighton , a water-side pleasure-resort. Toxteth Park is a suburb situated near the Mersey. On the N. and the E. are Bootle, Linacre, Walton-on-the-Hill, West Derby, Widnes, Wavertree, Prescot, St. Helens, luce, and Newton-in-Makerfield. St. Helens has very important glass manufactories. The basin of the Ribble contains a very considerable population. Round the mouths of the mines ENGLAND. 41 Birkenhead (Queen’s Hotel ; Woodside), an essen- tially modern town of about 85,000 inhab., is near the mouth of the Mersey, on the S. shore facing Liverpool. Constant communication by steam-ferries and the new tunnel under the Mersey. Ship-building is the main industry. The docks cover 500 acres. Here are the docks of the Messrs. Laird, where the Alabama was built. The Ch., which overlooks the river, is part of the old Priory of Byrkhed, founded in Henry II. ’s reign. rise groups of factories. The central city of the basin, Black- burn , is one of those towns black with smoke, where steam- engines are incessantly roaring. Clitheroe-on-the-Ribble is in the midst of a charming country. Between Blackburn and Liverpool the manufacturing towns are close together. Over- Darwen, Chorley, Wigan, Hindley, are but a stone’s throw' from each other. Not far from Wigan is the deepest coal- mine in Great Britain. On the W. of Wigan is the great market town of Ormeskirk. Preston, ‘ proud Preston,’ majestically situated where the Ribble begins to broaden, is the most populous city of the whole basin. It is at the same time a manufacturing place, of the first order, especially for cottons. Lancaster is to the N., distant from the centre of population. It is no longer a capital except in name, although it still keeps certain prerogatives as a ducal city. Built on the site of a Roman military station, it is overlooked by a castle where there were many important ruins. Lan- caster, prominent in so many events in the civil wars, is now a peaceful commercial town, with numerous cotton factories. The Fleetw r ood Railway unites it with Poulton, on Morecambe Bay, a maritime summer-resort. The tow r n which attracts most visitors is Blackpool, situated N. of the Ribble estuary, on a hill from whence the w aters of the Irish Sea can be seen.” 42 GRANGE. FURNESS ABBEY. The English Lake District. Those persons who desire to visit the English Lakes and to proceed thence to Scotland, before going, as the English say, “up to London,” will find Liverpool their best point of departure. From Liverpool to Winder- mere the distance is 8 7J M. ; and the fares, 25s. 6d., 18s. 3d., 11s. 6d. This route is through Wigan, Pres- ton, and Lancaster to Oxenholme Junction, where a good view of Kendal, the largest town in Westmore- land, is obtained, and from Oxenholme by branch rail- way to Windermere , whence excursions can be made in all directions. But we think the American tourist would find it interesting to enter this beautiful re- gion by another route, as follows : Take ticket from Liverpool to Grange (fares, 21s. 6d., 15s. 6d., 10s.). You pass through Wigan, Preston, and Lancaster, and a little beyond this last place change at G arnforth Junction. The railway thence to Grange carries you across arms of Morecambe Bay, and beside wild stretches of quicksand, where hundreds of lives have been lost. Grange {Grange Hotel, a charming house on the slope of a wooded hill) is called the “ Torquay of the North.” Its climate is mild, even in winter ; and it is a favorite fashionable resort. Castle Head, once a Roman station, is nearby. From Grange an excursion should be made to Furness Abbey, by the railway passing through Ulverston, Lindal, Dalton, and other points in the rich Furness mining district, and termi- nating at the important town of Barrow. (Return ticket, 1st class, Grange to Furness Abbey, 5s.) Tour- ists will be well repaid for visiting the ruin, and the ex- cursion may be made in an afternoon by those who have left Liverpool for Grange in the morning. “ The Royal ENGLAND 4a Abbey of St. Mary of Furness” was founded in 1127, in Henry I.’s reign, by Stephen, his successor on the throne of England. The monks of the Cistercian order grew rapidly rich and. powerful. The abbots of Furness were lords in Parliament, and had their little army. The ruin is now the property of the Duke of Devonshire. Admission to the grounds, which are close to the stat., free. The roofless ch., the lavishly decorated chapter- house, the scriptorium, and the refectory contain many interesting memorials. The E. window is preserved in the sanctuary at Bowness ; it is a superb specimen of mediaeval glass-painting. Furness Abbey Hotel is near the ruins. Along the rly. lie beds of hem- atite iron ore, from which about 600,000 tons are annu- ally taken. From Ulverston {Sun; BraddylVs Arms), the capital of Furness, a branch line leads to Lake Side, on Windermere Lake. One can also go directly from Furness Abbey or from Barrow by rail to the head of Coniston Lake. See time-tables of Northwestern and Midland Railways, and local guide-books, for a host of details concerning round trips, circular tickets, etc. Holker Hall , a residence of the Duke of Dev- onshire, may be visited on the way back from Fur- ness Abbey to Grange. Stop at Gark , and walk to the Hall, 1 M. The Hall and park are on the Leven, flowing out of Lake Windermere. Many charming walks in this vicinity, from the weird Leven Sands up to and through sweet and romantic Holker Village , with its cottages nestling among rose-trees and fuchsias, and on to Gartmel and its ancient Priory. Holker Hall contains a fine collection of paintings, and the park is well stocked with deer. Levens Hall may be visited from Grange. It is on the E. side of the river Kent, 44 WINDERMERE. The gardens on the estate were laid ont by Beaumont, James II.’s famous gardener. Returning to Grange, sleep there, and take the coach next morning for Newby Bridge and Lake Side (foot of Lake Windermere) at about 10 o’clock. This 8 M. drive is- delightful. At Newby Bridge the time-honored and picturesque Swan Inn should be noticed. At Lake Side , where the train from Ulverston comes in {Lake Side Hotel , very good), one may take the steam-vacht which plies regularly on the waters of Windermere, stopping at the Ferry (5 M.), Bowness (6 M.), or Waterliead (11 M.). This last is the stat. for Ambleside, f M. from the lake; and at Ambleside one is in the very heart of the Lake region. (Fare from Grange to Ambleside by this route, about 5s.) A party of four persons would find it worth their while to hire a carriage at Grange, and drive first to Newby Bridge ; thence to Lake Side ; then across from Winder- mere Lake, past Esthwaite JVater (around which Words- worth used to walk when he was attending school near by), through the old town of Hawkshead , down to the Waterliead Quay on Coniston Lake ; and from that point over the Oxenfell, past Skelwith Bridge and Elter Water and Brathay, into Ambleside. This can be done easily in 5-6 hrs., including stops, and in fine weather is a bewitching journey. The descent to Coniston and the approach to Ambleside afford two of the loveliest views in England. Make special bargain for carriage ; driver receives fee of 2s. — 3s. 6d. We advise tourists to hasten to Ambleside, and make their excursions from there. The Long Sleddale, Kentmere, Troutbeck, and Rusland Yales may be best visited from Windermere Village or Bowness ; but everything else of importance is most accessible from Ambleside. 1 1 The traveller will find pocket editions of Wordsworth and Southey excellent companions ; also, Prof. Wm. Knight’s ENGLAND. 45 Windermere Lake is 10J M. long and 1 M. broad in its widest part. It is 134 ft. above the sea-level, and varies in depth from 90 to 240 ft. Opposite Bow- ness there is a group of about a dozen small islands. The surrounding hills rarely rise above 1,000 ft. At a few yards from the head of the lake, the rivers Brathay and Rothay unite their waters. There are no such rich effects of color, no such bold and magnifi- cent mountain masses, as on the shores of the Swiss lakes ; but there is a bewildering richness of Northern vegetation, and a constant succession of beautiful land- scapes such as few other countries can boast. (Boat, to row yourself, Is. an hr. ; with boatman, Is. 6d. per hr. ; for the day, with boatman, 10s.) Bowness ( Crown Hotel ; Royal ; Old England) is on a pleasant bay, and commands good views of the upper reaches of the lake. Ancient parish ch. here. Coaches every morning in summer for Coniston; and for Patter- dale, by the Troutbeck We and Kirkstone Pass. Windermere {Riggs s Hotel; Queen; Elleray) is H M. from the lake by road, | M. by footpath, and 5 M. from Ambleside. Coach each morning in summer to Patterdale. A short distance from the stat. formerly stood Elleray , the residence of Prof. Wilson (Christo- pher North) ; it has been replaced by a new house. Fine view from Orrest Head, 783 ft. high (£ hr.’s walk). Ambleside {Salutation Hotel; Queen's; White Lion, Water head, at the lake pier) is nearly 1 M. from the head of Windermere Lake, in a lovely situation at the loot of Wansfell Pike. Omnibuses often to Grasmere and to head of lake ; and coaches for Keswick, and “ The English Lake District, as interpreted in the Poems of Wordsworth,” price 5s. Baddeley’s Guide is eapital. Jenkin- son’s “ Practical Guide,” price 7s., is a good book. There are also a dozen small pamphlet guides for 6d. or Is. each. 46 AMBLESIDE. — CONISTON LAKE. thrice daily for Windermere. Tare from Liverpool to Ambleside, 28s. 6d., 20s. 6d., 13s. 6d.; from London to Ambleside, in 7 hrs., 76s. 4d., 58s. 10d., 39s. 6d. At Ambleside you are on classic ground. Mr. Tay- lor, landlord at the Salutation Inn (which venerable hostelry is now in its twentieth decade, although the building is new), says that Americans always ask him how far it is to Wordsworth’s grave, where Harriet Martineau lived, etc., but that English tourists never do. Ambleside is picturesque, although the inhabitants build ugly residences out of the slate which abounds in the neighborhood. The park-like vale of Rothay , with its rich woods and pretty vistas of green fields, seems made for the home of contemplation. The new Ch. of St. Mary designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, is in a charm- ing location. We give a number of short excursions within walking distance, out of which the tourist must choose those which strike his fancy. To the Stock Ghyll Force (waterfall, 70 ft. high), within the Salutation Hotel grounds. The distances mentioned below are computed from the “ Salutation.” To Rydal Mount , Ch., and Falls, 2 M. ; to Skelgill and Wansfell Rike , 3 M.; to the top of Kirkstone Pass , 4 M.; to Grasmere , under Loughrigg Fell, and back by Nab Scar, 9 M.; to Clapper sg ate, 1 M. ; Brathay Ch., 2 M. ; Low Wood Hotel, 2 M.; Troutbeck Ch., 4 M.; Langdale Ch., 5 M. Tickets for a circular tour by Coniston, Furness Abbey, and Windermere Lake (fares, 8s. 9d., 6s. 6d.), and for the whole tour, can be obtained at Ambleside or at Bowness. They are available for 7 days. Coniston Lake, 5| M. long and f M. broad, is 164 ft. deep in some places. Its surroundings are fine, and the view down upon it from some neighboring mt. is charming. A steam yacht plies up and down the lake 3 times daily (fares, Is. 6d. and Is.). Excur- ENGLAND* 47 sions up Coniston Old Man (2577 ft.), Wetlierlam, and Black Combe Mts. are for the leisurely tourist. Coach Services from Ambleside : For the Langdale Drive, 6s. ; to Keswick, several times daily, 6s. 6d. single, and 9s. 6d. return tickets. The Langdale Drive is from Ambleside to Rothay Bridge, \ M.; Skelwith Bridge, 3 ; Col with Force, 4 \ ; Smithy Houses, 5| ; Dungeon Gill, 9^ ; Chapel Stile, 12^; High Close, 14 ; Grasmere Oh., 15 J ; Ambleside, 19|. Much of the scenery visited on this drive is described in Words- worth’s “ Excursion.” 1 1 Private Carriage Excursions from Ambleside , recom- mended to tourists who have time at their disposition. — To Patterdale by Kirkstone Pass, Brothers’ Water, and back (an exceedingly interesting drive, abounding in wild and romantic scenery), 24 M.; or back by Troutbeck, 25 M. To Keswick by Rydal Water, Grasmere, Dunmail Raise, Thirlmere, Castlerigg, and back, 34 M.; or back by St. John’s Vale, 37 M. To Coniston by Tarn Hows, back by Hawkshead, Blelham Tarn, Wray Castle, to Ambleside, 18 M. To Coniston by Tarn Hows, back by Hawkshead, Esthwaite Water, the Ferry, Wray Castle to Ambleside, 23 M.- or across the Ferry and back to Ambleside by Bowness, 25 M. Around Windermere Lake by Bratkay, Wray Castle, the Ferry, Graythwaite, to Newby Bridge, and back by the E. side of Windermere, Bowness to Ambleside, 30 M. Around Langdale by Clappersgate. Brathay, Skelwith, Blea Tarn, Little Langdale, Wall End, back by Great Langdale, Red Bank, Grasmere, Rydal, to Ambleside, 21 M.; or direct by Elterwater, 18 M. By Clappersgate to Skelwith, Lough - rigg Tarn, High Close, Red Bank, Grasmere, Rydal, to Am- bleside, 12 M. To the top of Kirkstone, back by vale of Troutbeck and Low Wood, 11 M.; or back by Cook’s House, 15 M. To Bowness, back by Windermere, Cook’s House, Vale of Troutbeck, and Low Wood, 17 M. To Hawkshead, back by Wray Castle, Blelham Tarn, 12 M. 48 ULLSWATER LAKE. From Ambleside to Ullswater La!*©, Ullswater Lake is usually visited either from Amble- side or from Keswick. During the tourist season a coach leaves Ambleside for Patterdale at 10 a.m. daily. The route through Ambleside to the Kirkstone Pass passes in front of the Salutation Hotel, and branches to the r., passing the old ch. Here and there it is very steep, winding along the side of the Pell. Below, on the r., is the Stock Ghyll, on the opposite side of which is Wansfell Pike. The inn at the top of the Pass, called the Travellers' Rest , is said to be the highest in- habited house in England. It stands 1,475 ft. above the sea-level. Travellers, independent of the coach, would better drive round by Troutbeck Bridge and up the bold hills, commanding a view of the Pall of Trout- beck, to the top of the Pass* Descending from the Travellers’ Rest, you pass on the 1. the Kirk Stone, which looks, perhaps, a trifle like a ch. from a point half-way down the mt., towards Brothers’ Water, a little lake, named from the drowning of two brothers in its depths. While at the top of the Pass, you can see the flames from the blast furnaces in the Barrow dis- trict, and catch a glimpse of the Irish Sea. The Dove Crags, beyond the Brothers' Water Hotel , are extremely picturesque. Patterdale ( Patterdale Hotel; White Lion) stands in a pretty valley, a few hundred yards from the head of the lake. 1 M. farther on is the Ullswater Hotel y first-class. The scenery all about this point is rich and varied. The view from the windows of the Ullswater Hotel over the lake, with its woody shores and its islands, is very beautiful. (Pares for tour on Ullswater Lake, by steam yacht, 3s. and 2s.) The boats call at ENGLAND. 49 Howtown, and next land passengers close to Pooley Bridge, whence coaches run to meet the trains at Pen- rith. Prom Penrith, rail to Keswick. Ullswater Lake is 9 M. long, f M. broad, and 210 ft. deep. The upper reach of the lake is the most beautiful. Many people prefer this to Lake Derwent- water. See Lyulpfi s Tower and Ira Force , a waterfall 80 ft. high. This cascade is the scene of the incident on which Wordsworth’s poem of the Somnambulist is founded. The journey from Ambleside to Ullswater usually takes 2f hrs. Wordsworth intended to make his home at a cottage under Place Pell, near Patter- dale ; but the owner asked more than the prudent man thought it was worth, and he remained at Grasmere. The places in the Ullswater district associated with the poet are best approached by the road from Grasmere to Helvellyn, leading past Girsdale Tarn. From Ambleside to Keswick via Rydal Mount and Grasmere. Those persons who have not taken the Langdale Drive, or who have not been at Grasmere from Amble- side, may visit the old homes and the grave of Words- worth on their way to Keswick. The coaches stop at the places of interest. The road out of Ambleside leads past the Knoll , and the ivy-covered residence in which Harriet Martineau lived for a long time. This house is on the 1. Thence the route lies up the Both ay valley to Rydal. Note Fox How ) Dr. Arnold’s old residence to the 1., beyond the Bothay. A steep road on the r. leads out of Bydal to Rydal Mount , where Wordsworth spent 37 years of his life, and where he died in 1850. As many of the memorials of the poet in his home as possible have been preserved unaltered ; but the 4 GRASMERE. |tO old picturesque frontage with its 12 windows, and the ash-tree, near which hung the “osier cage” of the doves, are gone. The present owner of the house declines to show it. The location is extremely beauti- ful. Rydal Falls are at the back of Rydal Hall, Guide at cottage below the ch. Returning to the main road, the traveller passes through the gorge between Nab Scar on the r. and Loughrigg Fell on the 1. ; sees on the r. Nab Cottage , in which Hartley Coleridge lived for a long time, and where he died"; and reaches Rydal Water , one of the most diminutive of the lakes. From this point it is but a short distance to the delightfully situated Grasmere Lake. It is 1 M. long and \ M. broad. An island of 4 acres’ area lies in its centre. On the border of this lake is the Prince of W ales Hotel, a good house. Grasmere ( Rothay Hotel ; Rican; Red Lion ) lies mainly at the N. end of the lake, although many of the newer residences border on the highway. Knight says: “ The cottage at the town end of Grasmere, to which Wordsworth came with his sister in the last days of the last century, is, even more than Rydal Mount, identified with his poetic prime. It had once been a public house, bearing the sign of the Dove and Olive Bough, from which circumstance it was for a long time, and is still, occasionally named * Dove Cottage.’ It is a small, two-storied house.” (See De Quincey’s description, in “Recollections of the Lakes,” pp. 131, 137.) 1 Grasmere Ch. is the one 1 The localities most deeply identified with Wordsworth are : Grasmere, where he lived so long, and is buried ; Lower Easedale, where he spent so many days with his sister, by the side of the brook, and on the terraces at Lancrigg, where The Prelude was written ; Rydal Mount, where he lived the latter half of his life, and found one of the most ENGLAND. 51 which Wordsworth drew in “The Excursion/’ and in its cemetery lie lies buried. The interior is as the poet described it : there are the “ naked rafters in- tricately crossed,” the oaken benches, the “heraldic shield ” in the “ altar window,” etc. After a visit to the ch. you can find some very lovely rambles in the vicinity. The road to Keswick climbs Dunmail Raise Pass, with Steel Pell on the 1. and Seat Sandal on the r., and crosses the boundary between Cumberland and Westmoreland. Descending on the other side, Thirl- mere Lake appears, with Mt. Helvellyn on the r. and part of Skiddaw in the distance. The coach stops at the inn at Wythburn. The ch. at Wythburn is one of the smallest in England. From hence the ascent of Mt. Helvellyn is easiest. Height, 8118 ft. ; distance to top from Wythburn, 2 1-2 M. ; time required, 1 1-2 hrs. Thirlmere Lake, which sup- plies Manchester with water, is 2 1-2 M. long, and very narrow. From the W. shore many lovely views may be obtained. From an elevation in the road just beyond this point, Blencathara may be seen. The rich Yale of St. John also opens its charm- ing vistas on the r.; and not far from the King’s Head Inn, at Thirlspot, a glimpse of Castle Rock , the fairy i castle of Sir Walter Scott’s “ Bridal of Triermain,” is perfect retreats in England ; and the old (upper) path be - tween Rydal and Grasmere, under Nab Scar, his favorite walk during his later years, where he composed hundreds of I verses. There is scarcely a rock or mountain -summit, a j stream or tarn, or even a well, a grove, or a forest-side, in I all that neighborhood, which is not imperishably associated with that poet, who at once interpreted them as they had never been interpreted before, and added “ The gleam, The light that never was on sea or land, The consecration, and the poet’s dream.” 52 KESWICK.— DERWENTWATER LAKE. obtained. An uninteresting stretch of country comes next ; after which the traveller is gratified with one of the most exquisite panoramas in the Lake Region, the Derwent Valley, with pretty Keswick, and portions of Bassenthwaite and Derwentwater Lakes. Keswick (Hotels: Keswick, at the rly.stat. ; Royal Oak ; Queen's ; George; Lake ) is surrounded by a noble company of mts., with Skiddaw, the chief, 3058 ft., towering above them. It is a handsome little town, and one or two days may be spent in the neighbor- hood. 1 M. from Keswick, at the foot of Lake Derwentwater, in Portinscale, are the Derwentwater and Tower Hotels . 3 M. from Keswick is the Lodore Hotel, and behind it the Lodore Fall, which Southey celebrated in verse. The Barrow and Lodore Water- falls, the Bowlder Stone, Borrowdale Valley, Honister Pass, Buttermere and Crummock Lakes, Scale Porce, and the Newlands Valley may be seen on the excursion called The Buttermere Drive. Excursionists are con- veyed in open wagonettes (fares 5s., and Is. for driver) through this pleasant series of sylvan and lake scenery. Borrowdale is considered one of the finest valleys in Great Britain. The W astwater Excursion from Kes» wick is interesting, but fatiguing. Derwentwater Lake lies 238 ft. above the sea- level ; is 80 ft. deep in the centre, 3 M. long, and 1^ M. wide. Erom the Eriar’s Crag, on this lake, there is a magnificent outlook. There are several islands, one of which, St. Herbert , was occupied by a hermit monk in the 7th century. On Rampsholme Island, the Earls of Derwentwater once had a mansion ; and from it Lady Derwentwater escaped, taking with her the family jewels, to procure the release of the Earl, who was imprisoned in the Tower of London for taking part in the rebellion of 1715. (Charge for boat with boat- ENGLAND. 53 man on the lake, 2s. for the first hour. Is. 6d. for every succeeding hour.) For those pressed for time, a drive round Derwentwater Lake will give a view of the prin- cipal points of scenery. Bassenthwaite Lake begins about 3 M. N. of the foot of Derwentwater. It is 4 M. long and about f M. wide. The river Derwent, which carries the waters from the Derwent and Kes- wick Lakes, enters it at its head, and leaves it at its foot, flowing past Cockermouth and into the sea. Bassenthwaite has three promontories on its E. side, which is overshadowed by Skiddaw. It is not often visited by tourists, because it lies on the N. outskirt of the Lake District : but it is well worth seeing. Greta Hall, where the poet Southey spent the best part of his life, is a short distance from Kes- wick. Walk down the main street to the bridge crossing the river Greta, whence a good view may be had of the Hall. It stands on the r., surrounded by trees. From this point to Crosthwaite Ch. is a pleasant walk, and in the ch.-yard is Southey’s grave. The edifice contains a monument to the laureate, consisting of a full-length figure. The poetical inscription was written by Wordsworth. In the chancel is a monu- ment to Sir John Radcliffe, Knight, an ancestor of the Earls of Derwentwater. From the tower, good view. A footpath through the meadow called Houray was one of Southey’s favorite walks. From this point fine view of the magnificent group of mts. : on the N., the huge mass of Skiddaw; on the E., Wallow Crag; and to the S., the Borrowdale mts. The lead-pencil manu- factories near Keswick merit a visit ; so does an in. genious model of the Lake District in a museum in the town. From Castle Head , \ M. outside Keswick, most of Bassenthwaite Lake, a portion of Derwentwater, the whole of the intervening valley, and Mt. Skiddaw may b« KESWICK. — PENRITH. seen. St. John and Crostli waite Chs. may also be seen from this point. Unless the weather is fine, it is use- less to hope for any satisfactory view of the mts. Even in midsummer the front of Skiddaw is overhung with mists for a large part of the time. About 1^ M. from Keswick, in a field adjoining the old Penrith road, are the Druids’ Stones, formed of 38 stones, the largest of which is upwards of 7 ft. high. Near by are the tow- ering heights of Helvellyn, Blencathara, and Skiddaw, ■and, in the distance, to the W., an impressive range. Ascent of Skiddaw from Keswick. — The distance to the top is about 5^ M. ; time, there and back, 4-6 firs. ; .charge for pony, 6s. ; guide, 6s. A guide is usually necessary from Skiddaw to the summit of Blencathara ; distance, about 6 M. ; ground in places very wet. The tourist can now go on to Scotland (which course we recommend), via Penrith and Carlisle ; or can re- turn to Liverpool (fares from Keswick, 39s. 2d., 27s. .2d., 18s.), and thence go to London by the North Western Bly., arriving at Euston stat. (fares, by all the lines, 29s., 21s. 9d., 16s. 9d.; distance, 201f M.); the Midland, arriving at St. Pancras ; the Great Northern, arriving* at King’s Cross; or the Great Western, arriv- ing at Paddington stat. Free parlor cars are run on express trains, both on the L. & N. W. Ry. and the Midland Ry. From Keswick to Carlisle and Scotland, From’ Keswick to Penrith, 18 M. (fares, 4s. 4d., Is. 10d.). Penrith ( Crown Hotel; George) is charm- ingly situated. Excursions may be made to Brougham Castle and Hall, Arthur's Round Table , Lowther Castle and the famous Eden Hall , which contains the curious ENGLAND. 55 old drinking-glass called the “Luck of Eden Hall.” See ruins of Penrith Castle , a favorite residence of Richard III. In the cemetery of the parish ch. is the Giant's Grade, an ancient mysterious mound. Carlisle {County Hotel ; Red Lion; Bush; Crown and Mitre'), 18 M. from Penrith and 8 M. from the Scottish border, is the capital of Cumberland. It dates back to the Roman days, and was close to Hadrian’s wall. In the early wars between England and Scotland it was of great importance. The Castle was built by William Rufus. Within it Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned in 1568. The Cathedral does not stand in the front rank ; but its E. window is commonly said to be the largest and finest in the Kingdom. The ch. was originally part of a Norman priory, built of red free- stone. It contains a monument to Dr. Paley, Arch- deacon of Carlisle. Note the old glass of the time of Richard II., in the E. window, and the exquisite details of the flamboyant Gothic work. The walls and windows of the choir are Norman ; the upper part of the choir, with the E. end and the roof, Late Decorated. See the old abbey gate-house ; and the refectory, now used as the chapter- house ; also quaint houses in the market-place ; and the Moot Hall. Beyond Carlisle the rly. enters the Debatable Ground, where for centuries the borderers waged war on each other. A little farther on is Ecclefechan (Scotland), where Thomas Carlyle was born and is buried. The rly. crosses the Esk, descending from Liddesdale : — “ March, march, Eskdale and Liddesdale, All the blue bonnets are over the border.” 56 THE LAND OF BURNS. SCOTLAND. S HORTLY after crossing the Sark River, which is the boundary between England and Scotland, the route passes Gretna Junction , near which is Gretna Green, formerly the resort of runaway couples anxious to be married. These marriages, rendered possible by the dif- ference between the English and Scotch law, were first celebrated, in 1760, by a tobacconist named Paisley. In 1856 they were suppressed by act of Parliament. Annan Junction was the scene of the spirited escape of King Edward Balliol, in 1332, from the cavalry of Archibald Douglass. It was the birthplace of Edward Irving, in 1792. The Land of Burns ean be visited from Glasgow ; but it will be more satis- factory to go from Carlisle to Dumfries, pass the night, and then proceed to Ayr. The excursion may be made in a day. Dumfries ( Queensberr y Hotel; Ring's Arms') is 32J M. from Carlisle (fares, 5s. 6d., 4s. Id., 2s. 9d.). Here Burns lived for several years, and here he died, at the house now known as Burns’s. He also lived for 18 months after he became an exciseman, at the foot of Bank-St. His Mausoleum is in St. Michael’s Ch.- yard ; in the vault beneath, lie Burns and his wife and son. The Grey friars Ch. deserves a visit. Most readers of Scott wfill remember the story of Grey- friars Monastery and of “ Kirkpatrick’s bloody work.” Dumfries is the capital of Nithsdale, and its people call it “ The Queen of the South.” From a border hamlet SCOTLAND. 57 of the 8th century, with a Franciscan convent and a castle, it has grown into a prosperous port and factory town. Excursions from Dumfries : — To Linclu- den Abbey, 1^ M., beautiful ruins of a 12th-century Benedictine nunnery, and a favorite resort of Burns. Amid this sylvan beauty he composed his “ Vision of Libertie.” — To New or Sweetheart Abbey, a lovely Gothic ruin, 7 M. S. The Lady Devorgilla, who built the abbey (for Cistercians), in 1284, em- balmed the heart (whence the name) of her husband, John Balliol, and had it built in over the high altar. Devorgilla also erected in Dumfries the monastery for Franciscan friars, before whose altar Robert the Bruce slew the Red Comyn ; and the old bridge across the Nith. — To Terregles (3 M.) and Irongray (5 M.), in -whose ch.-yard is a handsome monument erected by Scott to the memory of Helen Walker (Jeannie Deans). Irongray is the scene of “The Recreations of a Country Parson/’ — To Ellisland farm, wiiere Burns "wrote “ Tam O’Shanter” and the beautiful ode “ To Mary in Heaven.” 13 M. from Dumfries is the extraordin- ary architectural pile of * Drumlanrig Castle, built by William, first Duke of Queensberry, "who -wasted princely sums on it. Torthorwald Castle is a massive ruin, 4 M. from Dumfries. Caerlaverock Castle (9 M.) is a grand old fortress on the Solway Frith, de- scribed in “ Guy Mannering.” Lochmaben, Ruthwell, and venerable Kirkcudbright (near Dundrennan Abbey and St. Mary’s Isle) may also be visited. Tourists who wish to view the extreme S. coast of Scotland should go to Stranraer from Dumfries (69 M.) ; and from Stranraer by rail to Ayr and Glasgow. Those who would make only a short stop at Dumfries should buy a ticket from Carlisle to Mauchline (81-| M. ; fares, 13s. 8d., 10s. 3d., 6s. 9Jd.) At Mauchline ( London 58 AYR. — ALLOWAY. Hotel; Black Bull ) everything speaks of Burns; his farm of Mossgiel is 1-| M. N. ; there he was married to* Jean Armour ; there his plough turned up the mouse’s nest. In Mauchline is “ Poosie Nansie’s ” cottage, celebrated for the meeting of the “ Jolly Beggars.” If you have time, walk through the woods and fields from Mauchline to Montgomerie. There stands the pretty mansion where once “Highland Mary” lived as an humble dairy-maid. Prom Mauchline a branch line, 11 M. long, leads to Ayr ( King's Arms ; Queen's'), to which thousands of pilgrims go to pay homage to Burns. It is on the sea-coast, at the mouth of the river Ayr. See the “Twa Brigs” of Burns’s poem. The Auld Brig (now only a footpath) dates from the reign of Alexander III., in the 13th century ; the new bridge, from 1877. A Gothic tower, 133 ft. high, containing a statue of Wallace, stands on the site of a tower in which the hero is said to have been confined. Crom- well built the fort of Ayr in 1652. But a few frag- ments remain. Take a carriage to Burns’s Cottage, the Monument, and Alio way Kirk (1^ hrs. ; fare, about 4s. for a party). Walk down through the long and exquisitely shaded avenue to the cottage. In this rude home the poet was born, Jan. 25, 1759. One room has been transformed into a kind of museum, and there some of the poet’s original MSS. may be seen. Not far beyond is Alio way Kirk, roofless and desolate. The walls are in a fair state of preservation, and the bell remains ; but the woodwork has been all used up for memorials. New Alio way Ch. is on the other side of the road. There is little to see in the “auld haunted kirk,” so go on to the bridge over the “Bonny Doon,” built since Burns’s time ; up stream you will see the “ Auld Brig ” immortalized in “ Tam O’Shan- ter.” An excursion along the beautiful Doon in the SCOTLAND. 59 summer-time is most delightful. The Burns Monu. ment stands near the new bridge. See, on the ground, floor, memorials of the poet, and the Bible which he gave to “Highland Mary.” Good view from upper part of monument. Note the statues of Tam O’Shan- ter and Sou ter Johnnie, in a grotto on S. N. E. of Ayr lies a country in which Burns laid the scene of many poems. It is accessible only by rural teams or on foot. Mt. Oliphant , where Burns lived when a child, and Tar bo lion, where he passed his early manhood, and where he wrote “John Barleycorn,” “ Now, whistling winds,” etc., are but a few miles from Alio way. A rly. runs S. from Ayr to Maybole (9 M.), the old capital of Carrick, and the scene of Scott’s “Ayr- shire Tragedy,” near which are the rich ruins of Cross- raguel Abbey (founded about 1240) and Dunure Castle ; also the splendid Culzean Castle , where the Earls of Cassilis have held court for centuries, on cliffs over the sea. 7 M. S. of Maybole are the ruins of Turn- berry Castle , made famous by Robert Bruce and Wal- ter Scott. 22 M. by rail from Ayr is Girvan , 10 M. off shore from which Ailsa Craig rises from the sea, 1,100 ft. high, and 2 M. around. The rly. runs farther S. to Portpatrick ; Stranraer; Glenluce, near the ruins of Luce Abbey (founded 1190) and Soulseat Abbey; picturesque little Wigtown, near Baldoon Castle, the scene of Scott’s “Bride of Lammermoor ; ” and other localities famous in the chronicles of the borders and the sea, — the Bruce, the Wallace, and the Cove- nanters. Ayr can be visited from Glasgow (40 M.) in an after- noon. (Fares, 5s., 4s., 3s.) Leaving Ayr for Glas- gow, in 6^ M. the train reaches Troon, the chief sea- port and summer-resort of Ayrshire, 3 M. from the 60 Paisley. — Glasgow. ■ ^ great ruins of Bundonald Castle , the home of the founder of the Stuart dynasty ; a branch line runs (9 M.) to Kilmarnock , where Burns’s poems were first published. Beyond Troon, the Glasgow train passes Irvine , where the poet Montgomery was bom, where Burns lived for a time, and where Bobert Bruce sur- rendered to the English army under Percy. 3^ M. farther on is Kilwinning , with the ruins of an ancient priory, famous in Masonic annals ; and also the impos- ing Eglinton Castle, the seat of the Montgomeries. Faisley {New Globe ; County) contains a magnifi- cent Town Hall ; a jail, which looks like a palace ; a museum of local antiquities and relics ; and the Abbey Church , founded in 1169. In the Reformation, Paisley was noted for its intense devotion to the Catholic re- ligion. The chapel of the abbey contains a “ sound- ing aisle,” so called from its remarkable echo. The nave, which remains entire, is used as a parish ch. Paisley (once a Roman fortress) was of no importance until the last century ; but now its trade includes weav- ing, shawls, and thread-making (the establishments of Coats, and Clark & Co. are the largest of their kind in the world). “Christopher North” was born here. Not far from Paisley is the farm of Moorhouse, where Robert Pollok, author of “The Course of Time,” was bom, in 1798. See Crookston Castle , where Queen Mary was betrothed to Darnley, half-way between Paisley and Glasgow. (Hotels: St. Enoch's; George ; Grand; Alexandra; Bath; Central). The American tourist will find a vast deal to occupy his attention in this, the second city in population and commercial importance in Great Britain. A small Roman colony once occupied this SCOTLAND. 61 site. About the year 560 St. Mungo founded a religious house here, and the village was nurtured by the Church for a thousand years. At the Re- formation Glasgow had but 4,000 inhabitants, and in 1708 it had 12,776. But towards the end of the 18th century it began to increase enormously ; and in 1889 the population was 750,000. The im- portation of tobacco from Virginia and Mary- land was long one of the chief brandies of industry. To-day, this town, 60 M. from the sea, rivals Liv- erpool in shipping, Manchester in cotton-spinning, Newcastle in coal, the Thames and the Tyne in iron ship-building, and Wolverhampton in iron furnaces. The perseverance of the Scotch in converting the Clyde into a vast harbor, cannot be too much admired. Glas- gow was the first city in Europe to possess a regular line of steamboats. In 1812—18 steam-packets crossed the Irish Straits between Greenock and Belfast. It was in Glasgow that James W r att perfected his famous invention. In 1718 the first ship, a little craft of 60 tons, left Glasgow for the New World. The statistics show that 13,071 ships (6,662,501 tons) entered or left the port in 1880. The commercial fleet of Glasgow was 1,088 ships and 532 steamers. The movement of Greenock was 7,890 ships (1,943,200 tons). Walk down to the splendid Glasgow Bridge , from which there is a fine view of the *Broomielaw, or Harbor, on which more than £2,000,000 has been spent. The Broomielaw is 400 ft. wide, and extends down the stream for 1J M., walled on either side by su- perb ranges of docks, along which ships are laid three or four deep. Erom the Bridge upstream a good view of the Custom House on the N. bank is commanded. The works on the Clyde have cost £8,500,000, or 62 GLASGOW. $42,500,000. In 1760 James Watt reported a maxi- mum depth of water at the Broomielaw of 3 ft. 3 in. Now, as the result of the constant dredging, vessels drawing 23 ft. of water enter freely. Glasgow is in the famous Lanarkshire black district, which has a great coal-field^ rich also in seams of ironstone. There are so many blast furnaces here that the sky to the S. and S. E. is lighted up nightly with their glow as if by a great conflagration. The E. section of the city includes the main business part, and the objects of antiquarian interest. The W. is the section for residences of the fashionable people ; and on the S. are the great public works. Buchanan • St. is handsomely built, and contains the finest shops and offices. Argyle-St ., 3 M. long (including Trongatf. and Gallowgate), is the main thoroughfare. George-St. is an avenue extending the whole length of the city? and passing through George Square. This is a cen- tral point, and lies close to the two principal rly. stats. In the centre stands the Scott Monument , a fluted col- umn surmounted by a gigantic statue. On the E. and W. are equestrian bronze statues of Queen "Victoria and the Prince Consort. There are also figures of James Watt, by Chan trey ; the exquisite statue of Sir John Moore (a native of Glasgow), by Elaxman ; one of Dr. Livingstone, the traveller ; and others to Camp- bell the poet, Sir Robert Peel, Robert Burns, Lord Clyde, and Dr. Graham. On the S. is the General Post-Office , plain but spacious ; and on the E. is the new municipal buildings. The Bank of Scotland and the Merchants' House occupy the W. side. The Royal Exchange is in the Corinthian style, with rich colon- nades. Strangers are admitted to the news-room, 130 ft. long by 60 ft. broad, with a noble arched roof. See Hutcheson' s Hospital , Corinthian buildings with s SCOTLAND. 63 high tower, founded in 1641 by two brothers ; and also in Ingram Street the old Glasgow Assembly Rooms; also St. David's Ch. and the Mitchell Library. In Argyle-St., at the so-called Cross of Glasgow , whence High-St., Gallowgate , London-St., and Saltmarket di- verge, stands an equestrian statue of William III. At the corner of the High-St. and Trongate formerly stood the old Court House , in front of which criminals were executed, and the ancient jail, of which Walter Scott speaks. See the Cross Steeple, a relic of the old municipal splendor. The ancient Saltmarket , Princes - St., and Kings-St., and the adjacent closes and wynds, on Saturday evenings afford scenes of violence and brutality among the lower classes. Walk up High-St. on the E. side from the Trongate to the Cathedral. See old Glasgow College (built 1632-52, in quaint and gloomy monastic forms), now a rly. stat. Opposite, at the corner of High and College Sts., is the house in which Thomas Campbell lived as a student. Farther on is the place called the Bell of the Brae, where, in 1300, Wallace and his Scots defeated thrice their num- ber of Englishmen, and Wallace clove Lord Percy’s head in twain ; and a little beyond this is the homely Barony Cli., once in charge of Dr. Norman MacLeod. The Cathedral is famous as one of the two Catholic chs. spared in Scotland by the fury of the Reformation. The Presbyterian ministers prevailed on the magis- trates in 1579 to have it torn down ; but the corpora- tions of the city rose in arms, and prevented it. Two stone “idols” were taken out of their nooks and broken to pieces, as Scott has told us, “ and the auld Kirk stood as crouse as a cat when the flaes are kaimed off her, and a’body was alike pleased.” (Admittance daily, except Sun., 10-6 ; Tues. and Thurs., 2d.) Tins noble structure is dedicated to St. Kentigern, or St. Mungo, 64 GLASGOW CATHEDRAL. the founder of the see of Glasgow, who was buried on the E. end of the cathedral-site. The edifice is pic- turesquely located ; and above it, on terraces almost oriental in tlieir construction, arises the Necropolis, the finest cemetery in the city, with rich shrubber- ies and crowds of monuments ; approached from the cathedral by the Bridge of Sighs. The arrangement of the monuments is very remarkable, and forms a noble background to the ancient cathedral. The most noted monuments are those of John Knox the Re- former, Dr. William Black, Rev. Dr. Dick, and Major Monteith. Climbing to the summit one overlooks the vast city, with its enormous ranges of buildings, and its forests of chimneys, and of masts along the Clyde, and the blue hills of Lanark, Renfrew, and Argyll. The original cathedral was founded in the reign of David I., in 1136 . Murdo, the famous architect, built it; and the inscription on his tomb alludes with pride to the fact. The cathedral is 319 ft. long and 63 ft. wide. The W. door is rich and beautiful. Its general design is French, but the mouldings and details are English The interior contains 147 pillars, and many of the 159 window's are of very beautiful workmanship. The en- trance is by a door in the S. aisle. Before the Refor- mation, the cli. was divided into two parts, and service was held in each. For interesting details, see Fergus- son’s Architecture. The * Crypt is unique in beauty, and is certainly one of the most perfect pieces of archi- tecture in Britain. It is supported by 65 pillars (18 ft. high), some of which are 18 ft, in circumference; and illuminated from 41 windows. The piers and groin- ings are of exquisitely beautiful and varied designs. In the centre stands the shrine of St. Mungo. At the S. E. corner is St. Mungo’s Well. See also the tomb of Edward Irving, who died at Glasgow in 1834. SCOTLAND. 65 In “ Rob Roy ” there is an interesting description of this crypt. Other things to note are the s tained - glass windows, executed in Munich, for £100,000 (ex- planations of the windows, 2d.)*. the Dripping Aisle , so called from the perpetual dripping of water from the roof ; the Choir , locally known as the High Ch. y now used as one of the city chs. ; magnificent organ here ; behind it, the chapel and the chapter-house. The curi- ous old ch.-yard is literally paved with stone slabs, with inscriptions to the memory of local notables. The new University, the most imposing modern edifice in Scotland, is approached through West End Park : take the footpath from the bridge over the Kelvin. From the platform, good view. The Univer- sity has a frontage of 600 ft., with fine central tower, 310 ft. high. The architect was the late Sir G. Gilbert Scott. In general style the buildings are Early Eng- lish. The buildings will have cost £500,000. The museum, rich in mineralogy, geology, and natural his- tory, is open daily, 10-3 (admission, 6d.). In the Hunterian Library , valuable series of early printed books. The University was founded about 1450 by Bishop Turnbull. In 1560 Queen Mary endowed it with a moiety of the confiscated Church property in the city. Its renown as a seat of learning culminated in the last century. Cullen and Black, Hunter and Reid, Adam Smith and Watt, are among the great names asso- ciated with it. Near by is the Botanical Garden . The Corporation Galleries of Art have valuable collections of paintings (by Claude, Cuyp, Teniers, Murillo, etc.) ; also a marble statue of Pitt, by Flaxman, and por- traits of the English kings. Galleries open daily, Sun- days excepted. See St. Andrew's Palace and the Kelvin Grove Park and Museum. The park contains a fountain commemorating the introduction of water 5 66 DUMBARTON CASTLE. from Loch Katrine. In Kelvin Grove is the Industrial Museum. Near the University is the New Western Infirmary, The beautiful .squares and terraces in the W. contain the homes of the rich merchants, the “to- bacco lords/’ and the great ship-builders. Glasgow Green is a park extending 1 M. along the Clyde, adorned with an obelisk to Lord Nelson, and the scene of very remarkable open-air preaching oq summer Sunday evenings. In this park Prince Charles Edward reviewed his army in 1745 ; and here, also, Watt was strolling when the central idea of the steam-engine occurred to him. To the S. of Queers Park is the village of Langside> where Queen Mary met with her final defeat, in 1668. A memorial stone marks the spot whence Mary witnessed the battle. Excursions around Glasgow. — - To Greenock, by the river; past the suburb of Govan and the ship- yards of Messrs. Napier, etc. ; the old royal burgh of Renfrew , near which Somerled, Thane of Argyll, was defeated and slain in 1164 ; Erskine Eerry, where the Earl of Argyll was captured, in 1685, in the disguise of a peasant ; Dalnottar and the craggy Kilpatrick Hills ; Bowling, near the high ruins of Dunglas Castle and the end of Antoninus’s wall ; and Dunglaspoint, with its monument to Henry Bell, who first introduced steam navigation on the Clyde. Dumbarton Castle, at the junction of the Leven (Loch Lomond’s outlet) and Clyde, is ; on a rock measuring 1 M. around and 560 ft. high. Part of it bears the name of Wallace's Tower. The Scottish hero was imprisoned there ; and his huge two-handed sword is still shown. There is a tradition that Satan threw Dumbarton Rock at St. Patrick, The castle is one of four garrisoned in Scot- land by the British army, and commands the Clyde with batteries. It was the capital of a Roman province. SCOTLAND. 67 and afterwards repelled the Norwegian Vikings. It was held by Robert Bruce in 1309; and in 1571 Capt. Crawford carried it by escalade, at night. In 1652 it was taken by Cromwell’s troops. At the portcullis may be seen carven heads of Wallace, and Menteith, bis betrayer. At the summit the remains of a Roman fort are shown. Queen Mary spent some time here. 2 M. from Dumbarton is the village of Cardross, where stood the old castle in which King Robert Bruce died, in 1329. Greenock ( Tontine Hotel; White Hart ; Waverley ; rly. from Glasgow', Is. 6d. ; population, 80,000) is one of the chief seaports of Great Britain, and very picturesquely situated. Vast new docks are being built. The shipyards are among the largest on the Clyde. The ocean steamers for New York take their passengers and mails at the. Tail of the Bank . Fine view, from the shore, of the mts. of Argyllshire and Dumbartonshire. Burns’s “ Highland Mary ” is buried in the old kirkyard. There is a beautiful statue of James Watt, by Cliantrey, in a memorial building in Union-St. Travellers going to Oban and Inverary should take steamer at Greenock. Nearly opposite is Helensburgh (Queen's Hotel ; Imperial ), a pretty town, much frequented in summer by pleasure-seekers. The Gareloch is the name of a fine sea-basin (steamers ply on it), which stretches N. from Helensburgh for about M. Its shores are covered with beautiful villas, Roseneath, Ardincaple Castle, etc. The famous Glen Bruin lies on the E. Another good excursion can be made in one day by the Caledonian Rly. to Hamilton, passing through Rutherglen, a royal b.urgh as early as 1126. Hamil- ton ( County Hotel ; Commercial) contains many inter- esting historical places. See site of King's Head , where Cromwell lodged during his foray into Scotland ; and 68 HAMILTON PALACE. — LANARK. the old Steeple and Pillory , built in the reign of Charles I. Hamilton Palace, seat of the Duke of Hamilton and Brandon, stands in a beautiful park ; 2 M. S. E. are the ruins of Cadzow Castle. On Both - well Bridge , 2 M. N. of Hamilton, a famous encoun- ter between the Covenanters and the Royal forces took place in 1679. A little beyond is Bothwell , noted for its old ch., where Robert, Duke of Rothesay, was married. Bothwell Castle (admission, Tues. and Eri., 10-3 ; see local guide-books) is on the r. bank of the Clyde, 1 M. from the village. The ruins afford an almost perfect example of Norman architecture. See the circular towers ; remains of the chapel, with shafted windows ; and a circular dungeon called Wal- lace's Beef-barrel . The walls are covered with ivy and wild roses. The walk between Hamilton and Bothwell is extremely interesting. Lanark ( Clydesdale Hotel) was the scene of many of Wallace’s exploits. There is a statue of him at the parish ch. Corra Linn is 1^ M. S., a beautiful fall of 85 ft. ; and the pretty Bonnington Linn is | M. beyond. Stonebyres Linn is 2| M. N. of Lanark, near the Cartland Crags. Tickets must be obtained. The Scottish Highlands. A Round Trip from Glasgow to Glasgow by way of Loch Lomond , Loch Katrine , the Trossachs, and Callander ; from Callander to Oban : with Excursions from. Oban to Staff a, Iona , and Inverness ; and from Oban to Glasgow , by the Crinan Canal and Rothesay . We recommend this route as giving a wide survey of typical Scotch mt., lake, and coast scenery, within a brief period and at small cost. The trip through the lochs and the Trossachs to Callander begi»is at the SCOTLAND. 69 Queen-St. stat. in Glasgow, at 7.40 a. m. Buy a ticket for Inversnaid, the point at which Loch Lomond is left (fare, 9s. 3d.), and proceed by train to Balloch (2D M.). The route passes Dumbarton, and gives a good view of Wallace’s Seat; through the valley where, in the parish of Cardross, Smollett, the historian and novelist, was born ; and up the glen of the Leven’s transparent water. At Balloch the train stops close to the steamer. Loch Lomond is certainly very beautiful when the sunlight plays upon the water and on the guardian mts. It is about 23 M. long, and, at its S. end, $ M. broad. Under the base of Ben Lomond it is 120 fathoms deep. The area covered by water is 20,000 acres ; 32 islands are scattered over the lake, bearing, ruins of ancient monasteries and castles. Most of these belong to the Duke of Montrose, who uses Inchmurrin* the largest, as a deer-park. “Loch Lomond,” says Baddeley, “has neither the matchless depth and deli- cacy of coloring which characterizes the foot of Loch Katrine, nor the wild grandeur of Loch Coruisk, nor, in fairness let us add, the dignity of Loch Maree; hut ... it blends together in one scene a greater variety of the elements which we admire in lake scenery than any other Scottish loch.” The steamer leaves Balloch Castle on the r. ; passes to the r. of Inchmurrin , with its ruined Castle , and calls first at Balmaha. Near by is Inchcailloch , the “ Island of Women ” (so called be- cause a nunnery once existed there). It is the burying- place of the Macgregors. The next landing-place i? Luss, on the 1. ; a picturesque little village, with a good hotel. Bine view of the lake from St rone Brat hill. As the boat moves N., the great mass of Ben Lomond comes fully into view. Rowardennan , on the r., has a hotel. Here is the best starting-point for the 70 BEN LOMOND. — TARBET. ascent of Ben Lomond, 3,192 ft. high, and the favor- ite climb in Scotland. The rough pony-track begins opposite the hotel, and climbs over the ridge between Loch Lomond and the Loch-ard valley. Ascents also are made from Inversnaid and Aberfoil. In clear weather the castles of Stirling and Edinburgh, and the Eirth of Forth, can be seen. Time from Rowarden- nan, 2-3 hrs. ; distance, 6 M. ; pony and guide, 8s. Opposite Rowardeunan is Glen Douglas ( Inveruglas Hotel), .from which point a pretty road leads to Loch Long. Glen Douglas can be reached by ferry across the lake. The boat moves on under the shadow of Ren Lomond, and crosses to the 1. bank, to Tarbet ( WFhersori s Hotel, good but dear), charm- ingly situated, 8 M. from the head of the loch. From thence coach may be taken to Loch Long, or to In- verary by Glencroe (24 M. ; fare, 8s.). Loch Long (salt water) is separated from Loch Lomond by a well- wooded isthmus. Glencroe is a wild mt. pass, 860 ft. high. From here the road to Inverary turns N., and skirts the upper edge of Loch Fyne. Inverary {Argyll Anns; George) is a small town celebrated as the Highland headquarters of the Duke of Argyll (the MacCallum Mor). Inverary Castle , the ducal residence, is an ugly building in the midst of beautiful grounds. This point may be reached by other routes from Glasgow, especially by the steamer Lord of the Isles (fares, 7s. 6d., 6s., 5s.). From Tarbet cross Loch Lomond to Inversnaid, where coaches are taken for Loch Katrine. The head of Loch Lomond is 3 M. above. 1 M. above is Rob Roy's Cave, a narrow opening in the bank near the water’s edge, where it is said that Rob Roy kept his prisoners. Ardlui is the last town on the lake ; coaches to Crianlarich (9 M.), whence rly. to Oban. SCOTLAND. 71 Inversnaid lias a comfortable hotel. The'*? is a scramble for places on the coaches for Locli Katrine y and the oauny Scot exacts 2d. pier dues from each person. The Inversnaid Waterfall is where Wordsworth met the “ Highland Girl,” of whom he sang so sweetly. Opposite Inversnaid is Inveruglas Isle , on which are the ruins of an ancient castle of the Macfarlanes. The road to Loch Katrine (5 M.) lies over a very steep hill, by the hovels pointed out as the former homes- of Rob Roy and Helen Macgregor; the Fort of Invers- naid, erected to check the depredations of Rob Roy’s band, — Gen. Wolfe was once quartered there; and Loch Arklet, half-way to Stronachlachar Pier, on a bay near the W. end of Loch Katrine. At the hotel. here a good lunch can be obtained. Loch Katrine (or Cateran, “ Robbers’ Lake ”) is Glasgow’s reservoir. The water drunk by the 750,000 people gathered on the banks of the Clyde is conveyed 1 from this lovely basin for 34 M. The aqueduct re- quired the building of 70 tunnels, and cost £l,500,000i A Lilliputian steamer (fare, 2s. 6d.) carries you past Ellen's Isle (see “The Lady of the Lake ”), the Silver Strand, and the Goblin's Gave ; and affords glimpses- of “ huge Ben Venue.” The loch is 8 M. long, and averages f M. wide. To be seen to advantage, it must have plenty of sunshine, and then it seems “ one bur- nished sheet of living gold.” You land where all the beauties of the lake are concentrated. If you can, by all means walk up through the gorge to the Trossachs Hotel (1 M.). Tho Trossachs, the “bristling country,” gains in loveli- ness in a rainy day. There is something weird in a ride through this leafy glen, with the rain rustling in the trees. The gorge extends from Loch Katrine to Loch Achray, between the range of Ben A’an, on the 73 LOCH ACHRAY. — LOCH VENNACHAR. r. (1,500 ft.), and Ben Venue (2,393 ft.), on the 1. In this labyrinth of rocks and mounds, of oak and rowan and birch, of crag and grove and tarn, the most prosaic traveller may well become enthusiastic. Walter Scott’s poems are good companions here. You can call up memories of Fitz James and his “ gallant grey,” and of the “ Knight of Snowdoun,” on his way to the Silver Strand. In Scott’s early days there was no road through this pass. The Trossachs Hotel is a pretty (and dear) house. Excursions thence to the tops of Ben Venue and Ben A’an, and to the wild Pass of Beal-nam-bo. Distances by Road . — Loch Katrine to Trossachs Hotel, 1 M. ; Loch Acliray, 2| ; Brigg of Turk, 3* ; Loch Vennachar, 4| ; Coilantogle Ford, 7 ; Callander, 9J. Loch Achray is noticeable for its tranquil beauty. It is 3 M. long, and the shores are clad with copse to the very water’s edge. “ The Lady of the Lake ” will be found the best guide here. You next reach the Brigg of Turk, where, in the famous chase, as Sir Walter informs us, “the headmost horseman rode alone.” Near this bridge over Achray Water is the blackened ruin of the New Trossachs Hotel. Fine view of Ben Venue from here. Next come the Dun- craggan Huts; and then Loch Vennachar (4 M. long), the “Lake of the Fair Valley.” On the N. shore is Ben Ledi, the “ Hill of God ” (2,875 ft.). To climb Ben Ledi by the Bass of Leny is an admirable excursion. Here you are in the real Highland country. The hills are aglow with purple colors ; the black-faced cattle with widely projecting horns look down defiantly at you from the steep pasturages ; a countryman in kilt trudges by. The coaches rattle past Coilantogle Ford, “ Clan- Alpine’s outmost guard,” where Roderick Dhu challenged Fitz James ; and bring up in Cal* SCOTLAND. 73 iander. Here you may take train to Stirling and Edinburgh ; but if you desire to see the real High- lands, continue on our route. Callander (Hotels, Dreadnought , very good; Mac - gregor , fair) is in the centre of a delicious country. 1^ M. from the town are the Bracklinn Falls. A pleas- ant excursion may be made through the Pass of Leny to Strathyre, returning by train (8| M. to walk). It is easy to climb Ben Ledi thence (3 hrs. ; pony and guide, 10s.), and stand on the smooth green summit where'the ancient Druid fires were kept. From Callander to Oban. — Rly. fare, 1st class, 12s. ; time, 5-6 hrs. This line is one of the most beautiful in Scotland, and was one of the most ex- pensive. Including the harbor-works at Oban, it cost £645,000. The line crosses the Teith; skirts the base of Ben Ledi ; and traverses the Pass of Leny, which ex- tends between Callander and Loch Lubnaig. This loch is 5 M. long and 1 M. broad, and surrounded by high mts. Near the Falls of Leny is the churchyard of the Chapel of St. Bride , noticed in the “ Lady of the Lake.” Just beyond Loch Lubnaig the rly. crosses the River Balvag , and passes Strathyre and King's- House stat., whence Balquhidder and Loch Foil can be visited (2 M.). In the graveyard of the old ivy- covered chapel of Balquhidder is the stone said to cover the grave of Rob Roy. The hamlet is intimately connected with the history of the Macgregors. The road now rises, and gives a good view of Loch Earn and Ben Vorlich , on the E. It next traverses Glen Ogle. The rly. is constructed on the side, 300-400 ft. above the lowest level. The margin of Tjoch Dochart , above which rises Ben More , is next passed; after which Crianlarich stat. (coaches to Loch Lomond) is reached. A fine stretch of Highland landscape is seen 74 LOCH AWE. — OBAN. shortly before arriving at Dalmally, Just beyond Dai- ntily, Loch Awe, one of the most picturesque of the Highland Lakes, 22 M. in length, is reached. Near it is Ben Cruachan (3,611 ft.) ; and in the lake are many islands, the largest being the Island of the Druids. At the N. end stand the ruins of Kilchurn Castle ; and in the centre of the lake, on an islet, are the ruins of the ancient castle of Ardconnel , a former seat of the Campbells. The rly. descends towards the head of Loch Awe, and crosses the Orchy on a viaduct. From Taynuilt , on Loch Ftive , a steamer may be taken, and a circular trip to Glencoe (34 M.) and Balachulish (41 M.) begun. Beyond is Connell Ferry , near the Falls of Connell . To the r. stands the ivy-mantled Ardchat- tan Priory , built in 1231 by the Lord of Lome, and burned during the wars of Montrose. Oban (Hotels, good, but expensive : Great Western ; Alexandra; Caledonian; Station; King's Arms; and, on the hill, the Grand , on the Craigard Road) is the most central point for excursions through this weird north- ern land of lochs and islands, which has always had a strange glamour of romance about it. It is also the meeting-place of southern fashionables, and members of the English nobility and the republic of letters. Oban extends along and above a pretty bay, and is the most accessible place N. of Glasgow. Vessels can anchor safely within a few yards of the shore. Bunollie Castle , 1 M. distant, nobly placed on a pedestal of rock at the N. end of the bay, and covered with ivy, was built by the Lords of Lome, and is now owned by their descendants the M’Dougalls. The rocky island si Kerr era, 4 M. long, serves as a breakwater to the bay. It was here (in 1263) that Haco, King of Nor- way, met the Highland chiefs who aided him in his disastrous raid on the coast of Scotland. Here, also, SCOTLAND. 75 Alexander II. died, in 1249. The seaward view from the heights, reached by Craigard road, is very fine. Scott made the popularity of Oban by his poem, “ The Lord of the Isles, 55 the scene of which is laid here- abouts, and in the islands on the W. Line promenade along the bay. Dunstaffnage Castle, 4 M. N. E., was the seat of the Scottish monarchs for more than 3 centuries (a. d. 300-600). There was the famous. Coronation Stone, finally removed to Westminster. Admission to the castle, free. 0 To Staffa and Iona is a sea voyage of about 90 M. (10 hrs.). Boats leave the pier at 8 a.m. Eare, about 20s., including the landings at Staffa and Iona. The steamer passes on the r. Bumllie and Maiden Island and the Lighthouse, at the S. end of Lismore , near which is the Lady Rode, where, according to tradition,, a vindictive Highlander left his wife to perish by the rising tide. The boat next passes through the Sound of Mull , which separates Mull from the mainland;, crosses the mouth of Loch Aline , on whose shore lived Dr. Norman MacLeod, the former editor of Good Words ; calls at Tobermory , near the mansion of Alex- ander Allan, of the Allan Line ; passes the Caliach Point , whence a good view N. can generally be had as. far as Skye ; and then goes S. to The Island of Staffa, 8 M. from Mull. It is of irregular oval shape, and 1^ M. around. This island and Iona are owned by the Duke of Argyll. When the sea is reasonably calm, passengers are conveyed in small boats into the mouth of Fingal’s Cave, BO- 70 ft. in height, supporting an entablature of 30 ft. additional. The pillars by which it is bounded on the W. side are 36 ft. high ; on the E. only 18 ft. The length is 227 ft. The finest views are obtained through the end of the causeway at low water. The front and 76 IONA. — CALEDONIAN CANAL. sides are composed of countless ranges of columns. A shepherd and his wife were sent to Staffa, to take care of the sheep ; but the noise of the waves was so dismal that they begged to be taken away. 8 M. S. is Iona (4 square M. in area), which was founded in the 6th century by St. Columba and the Culdees, and often ravaged by the Norsemen and Danes. Visit; the ruins of the Nunnery of St. Mary , dating from the 13th century; and the ancient Cathedral ; also the great Stone Cross, the only one remaining of 360 once stand- ing on the island, but broken and thrown into the sea at the Reformation. The run back to Oban by the S. of Mull is, in fine weather, very charming. Do not forget plenty of wraps and umbrellas. Another excursion, made in one day, is from Oban to Loch Etive, Glen Etive, and Glencoe, and thence to Ealachulish, returning by Loch Linnhe. Time, about 10 hrs. ; fare, by rail and steamer, 25s. Another is from Oban to Ford by the Pass of Mel fort, returning by Loch Awe and the Oban Rly. This may be made comfortably between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. Tares, 17s., 15s. 6d. Another is to Fort William, Ben Nevis, and Banavie, interesting, but long, for vacation tourists. The Caledonian Canal. — People who have time to go to Inverness should take steamer through the great Caledonian Canal, built 1803-47, and 60J M. long. It was necessary to cut through only 23 M., as the sheets of fresh water which abound in the Great Glen of Scotland were utilized. The depth of water is about 17 ft. The steamer going N. leaves Oban at 5 p.m., and passengers sleep at Banavie ( Lochiel Arms, from which fine view of Ben Nevis). Loch Linnhe, through which the steamers pass, is famous for beautiful scenery. Fort William was one of the keys of the Highlands, built by Gen. Monk. Note SCOTLAND. 77 Live rloc hy Castle , famous in ancient wars, near the mouth of the Lundie. From Fort William to Banavie is 3 M. Ben Nevis , near here, 4,406 ft. high, is the highest mt. in Scotland. It is a vast mass of brown, porphyry, cleft with glens and fissures ; and on iti crags the snow lies all summer. The view is 100 M. in diameter, including all the chief peaks of Scotland. From Banavie, the ascent (8 M.) occupies 3^-5 hrs. (descent, 1| hrs.). Glen Nevis is worth a visit. Shortly after leaving Banavie, the steamer passes (on the r.) the ruined Tor Castle. On the W. side of Loch Locliy see the ruined home of Locliiel , whose fidelity and exile are famous. Loch Lochy is 10 M. long ; and a canal, 2 M. in length, leads to Loch Oich (4 M.), the central lake of the chain, as well as the smallest and highest. On its W. shore stands Invergarry Castle , burned in the revolution of 1745 ; and near the castle is “The Well of Seven Heads,” commemorating the vengeance on the murderers of the Keppochs. At Aberchalder the steamer descends 7 locks to Fort Augustus. Pas- sengers can walk down in about \\ hrs. At Fort Augustus is the College of St. Benedict , a vast pile of buildings in the Early English Gothic style. Loch Ness, “the loch of the cataract,” is 24 M. long, and has a depth of 130 fathoms. At the pier of Foyers the steamer stops long enough to permit a visit to the beautiful Fall of Foyers (i M. S.), “the most magnifi* cent cataract in Britain.” The height of the larger fall is about 90 ft. Burns wrote a fine description of the scene. There is a charming route along the hills, between Foyers and Inverness. This is the country for pedestrian tours. At the N. base of the great peak of Mealfourvonie, are the ruins of Urquhart Castle, oesieged in 1303 by the troops of Edward I. The guides show an arrangement in the windows for pout" 78 INVERNESS. NAIRN. ing molten lead on besiegers. 8 M. from Urquhart, Loch Dochfour is entered by a narrow passage, i M. long ; and the steamer presently reaches Muirtown , a suburb of Inverness ( Royal Hotel ; Caledonian ; Station; Im- perial). This venerable capital of the Highlands is situated at the mouth of the river Ness, where the basins of the Moray and Beauly Firths and the Glen of Scotland meet. Macbeth, Malcolm Canmore, James I.,' Queen Mary, Montrose, and other famous Scots are connected with its history. The new Cathedral of St. Andrew is a beautiful decorated Gothic ch. 6 M. out is the battlefield of Culloden, where the hopes of the House of Stuart were finally extinguished, in 1746. The cairn of stones marks the place where the battle took place ; and the large bowlder shows where the Duke of Cumberland took up his position. An excur- sion may be made from Inverness to Cawdor Castle, rendered famous by Shakespeare, and a fine specimen of the old baronial strongholds. Splendid view from the battlements. Nairn, 15£ M. from Inverness, is a fashionable resort for sea-bathing. Near it is Auldearn , where Montrose won a great battle over the Cove- nanters, who lost 2-8,000 men. The Inverness region was the scene of Hugh Miller’s geological researches. Persons who have come from Oban to Inverness may go down to Edinburgh via Stirling (21 3^ M. ; fares, 34s. fid., 25s. 10d., 18s.). From Oban to Glasgow. — We return by the Crinan Canal. This charming journey may be made between 8 a.m. and 6 p.m. (fares, 13s., 7s. 6d.) ; and we recommend it as the best way back. The steamers Iona and Columba are magnificent boats, equipped on an American scale of comfort. From Oban the boats go down the Sound of Kerrera, pass Gylen Castle and SCOTLAND. 79 Mie island of Mull, through the Firth of Lome, and the Little Easdale Sound. There are only one or two places where the boat emerges into open water, and so nothing is to be feared from sea-sickness. The route lies inside the island of Sell to Blackmill Bay, and past the mouth of Loch Craignnh , leaving Shmia and Luinq Islands on tae r. At Crinan passengers are trans- ferred from the Iona to a little steamer, and carried through the Crinan Canal, 9 M. long, to Loch Eyne. The canal was built (in 1801) to obviate - the necessity 7 n ^. e Mull of Kintyre, a dangerous route of /U M. 1 he views are pretty, and the passage of the 9 locks is curious ; but the journey is fatiguing At Ardnshaig passengers go on the Columba, a large and hue steamer. Dinner is served on board (3s ) Look well to your baggage. Erom Ardrishaig the boat moves down Loch Fyne to Tarbert. Good views of the peaks of Ben Cruachan on the N., and the Arran mts. on the b. After a pleasant passage through the picturesque Kyles of Bute , a strait between Bute and the mainland, the boat touches at Rothesay (Queen’s iuff , o Tu^'- r \ a i Bu , te Arms), a handsome town of ?i b a ^ t K , £? 0 - lnhab- ’ the ca P'tal of the island of Bute (IS X 5 M. in area), standing by a fine bay. Here are the ruins of Rothesay Castle, built beforf 1100 and once a royal residence. The dukedom of Kothesay was the first conferred in Scotland The brother of the Earl of Argyll burned the castle in i/li- See tt’ei-umsof the choir of the old Kirk of Rothesay is a favorite summer-resort The climate is very mild and genial. Consumptive invalids have found a decided benefit at Rothesay. Hydro- pathic establishments near the town. From Rotliesay in M Uno n n {Ar w 11 Hot i\ Grown; R °y “ l ) is a sail of lU JVl Dunoon is one of the large watering-places on 80 STIRLING. the Clyde, and the neighborhood is picturesque. From Dunoon to Greenock, 8 M. by steamer. Passengers can save about 1 hr. by taking train from Greenock to Glasgow. Glasgow to Stirling, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, and Edinburgh. We now recommend the traveller to go by rail (30 M.; fares, 5s. 10d., 2s. 5d.) from Glasgow direct to Stirling ( Golden Lion Hotel ; Royal ; Station), one of the most interesting towns in Scotland. It is on the river Forth ; and its Castle stands on the top of a huge rock overlooking the broad Carse of Stirling. Here Alexander I. died in 1124 ; and in 1304 the stout fortress sustained a three-months’ siege by Edward I. All the besieging implements in the Tower of London were brought up ; and it was due to one of these ter- rible engines, called “The Wolf,” that the castle sur- rendered. This was the key of the main passage between the N. and S. of Scotland. Edward II. fought the fatal battle of Bannockburn, in his endeavor to raise the siege laid to the proud castle. Edward Balliol captured it after the death of Bruce ; and King David recovered it only after a violent siege. It was a royal residence under the Stuarts. James II. and James Y. were born here; James III. built the Par- liament House ; James IY. made it his favorite resi- dence. James Y. built the Palace, which occupies the S. W. portion. The sculptures are very rich and gro- tesque. A few of the original “ Stirling heads ” — WDoden effigies of the Scotch kings — maybe seen in the old Court-room in Broad-St. Stirling Castle was taken by Gen. Monk in 1651, and beat off Prince Charles in 1745. In the Douglas Room the powerful SCOTLAND. 81 Earl of Douglas was stabbed by his sovereign. Stirling Castle is now an infantry barrack. The View from the Battlements is imposing. The Yale of Menteith, Ben Lomond, Ben Venue, Ben A’an, Ben Ledi, are all dis- tinctly seen. N. E. are the Ochil Hills ; S., the Campsie Hills; and on tha N., the Abbey* Craig, Cambusken- netli Abbey, the Wallace Monument, and the Bridge of Allail. See The Bruce Monument ; The Back Walk , W. of the Castle Bock ; the Grey friars Ch., erected in 1494 by James IV. (James VI. was crowned there in 1567, and John Knox preached the Coronation ser- mon) ; Argyll's Lodging and Mar's Work , the most interesting of the old houses ; the Town House , in Broad-St., in front of which Hamilton, the last Catholic Archbishop of Scotland, was hanged, in 1571 ; Cowan's Hospital; the Cemetery (many statues), S. of the Esplanade ; the Old Bridge , near which was fought the battle of Stirling (1297), when the Scots under Wallace defeated the English. A carriage to the Castle costs 2s. 6d. Excursions from Stirling. — To Cambuskenneth Abbey (1 M.), founded in 1147, and once the rich- est abbey in Scotland. — To the Wallace Monument (by tramway, 2d.), a tower 220 ft. high, on a rock called Abbey Craig (560 ft.). — To Lake of Men- teith and beautiful Aberfoil, on the river Forth. — To Bridge of Allan (3 M.), resorted to for the Airthrey chalybeate water. Dunblane ( Stirling Arms), near by, is celebrated for the Cathedral of St. Blane , a good specimen of Gothic architecture. It was rebuilt in 1240, and shattered by the Reformers in 1559. Battlefield of Sheriffmuir (1715) close by. Beyond Dunblane, is Doune Castle. — To Bannockburn, where Robert Bruce and 30,000 Scots defeated Edward •82 PERTH. — DUNKELD. deuce of Scotland. — To the noble ruins of Linlithgow Palace , — a favorite seat of the kings of Scotland. Perth {British Hotel ; Royal George ; Queen s ; Sain- 1 from Stirling (69 M. ; fares, 5s. of 30,000 inhab., with monuments Jo Scott and Prince Albert, and a handsome new Anglican cathedral. In the quaint Ch. of St. John , John Knox preached. The North Inch and South Inch , by the side of the Tay, are the parks of the city, and were the scene of the battle described in The Fair Maid of Perth. When Agricola -established Roman camps hereabouts, Perth was al- ready a town ; and from the overthrow of the Piets until 1437 (600 years) it was the capital of Scotland. In 1210 it became a royal burgh ; in 1310 Robert Bruce stormed its walls; and in 1437 James I. was murdered here. An old house in Curfew Row is be- lieved to be that described by Scott as the home of the “ Fair Maid.” Scone Palace, on the site of the famous old Abbey of Scone , in which the Scottish kings were crowned, is 2-| M. N. The Highland Rly., which extends 144 M. from Perth to Inverness, and 161 M. from Inverness to Wick, passes through some of the loveliest scenery in 'Scotland. Dunkeld {Athole Arms ), on this line, 16 M. from Perth, has a rare old cathedral, and is close to Birnam Hill. On this line also is the Pass of Killie- rranJcie, a remarkable bit of glen scenery. The field where Dundee’s Highland clans crushed William III.’s redcoats in 1689, is near by. Pitlochrie {Fisher's Hotel) and Blair Athole {Athole Arms ; Bridge of Tilt) are the best points for excursions. From Perth a trip can be made (22 M.; fares, 3s. 6d., £s.-6d.,- Is. 9d.) to Dundee {Queen' s Hotel ; Royal ; Royal British; Imperial) the third town in Scotland in It is a superbly situated city. SCOTLAND. 83 population (150,000), and the principal seat of the Brit- ish linen and jute trades. It is on the N. bank of the Tay, 12 M. from its mouth, and has a fine range of docks, covering 40 acres. See the Customs Offices , and the Royal Arch ; also the Esplanade, running from the Craig Pier to Magdalen Point, where the Tay Bridge had its N. terminus. A square tower, 150 ft. high, is all that remains of old St. Mary’s Ch., founded by David, Earl of Huntingdon, on his return from the Crusades. The Royal Exchange , in Albert-Square, the Albert Institute , and the Free Library are worth visit- ing. Within easy reach of Dundee or Perth is Brechin , with interesting ruins of a cathedral and castle, and an ancient round tower; Montrose, a quaint little seaport, once a royal burgh ; Dunottar Castle , towards Aber- deen, a huge ruin on a rock in the sea ; and Arbroath , a busy port, with fine ruins of an abbey founded in 1178. 15 M. S. (by rly.) is St. Andrews, a grave, neat, and picturesque port, with the oldest university in Scotland (founded 1411), and the Madras College. It is “ a perfect Nineveh of ecclesiastical ruins,” having the remains of a noble cathedral and priory, the myste- rious Tower of St. Begulus, part of the castle-palace of the primates of Scotland, a beautiful fragment of the Dominican monastery, and two fine old chs. Prom Dundee to Forfar (21 M.; fares, 3s. 8d„ 2s. 9d., Is. 9d.) is a pleasant journey. In the County Hall of Forfar is preserved the Witch's Bridle, placed as a gag on the mouths of the miserable victims burned for witchcraft. Glamis Castle, 5 M. W. of Forfar, is a grand old baronial edifice, celebrated by Scott and Shakespeare. From Forfar those who have the time may go along the coast (fares, 9s. 6d., 7s. 2d., 4s. 9d.) to Aberdeen ( Imperial Hotel ; Palace ; Douglas's). Steamers to Leith and London ; and N. to Wick, 84 ABERDEEN. — BALMORAL CASTLE. Thurso, Kirkwall (the Orkneys), and Lerwick (the Shetlands). Aberdeen, “ the Granite City,” is a finely built town of 105,000 inh. on a cluster of hills on the Dee, at its mouth . The Dee is crossed by four hand- some bridges. Union-St ., 1 M. long, with its vista of grayish white granite, is much admired. The ancient E. and W. Chs. contain some curious monuments, and the tomb of Beattie the poet. See the statue of Prince Albert ; the handsome Gothic Town and County Build- ings ; the Cross, built in 1686, and covered with medal- lions of the Scottish monarchs ; and the handsome Marischal College (founded in 1593). The docks cover 34 acres, and admit the largest ships. The Aberdeen clipper-ships are famous the world over. 1M. N. lies Old Aberdeen, the site of the ancient Kinfs College (1494), famous for exquisite wood-carving, m chapel; and the Cathedral of St. Machar . The Auld Brig o y Balgownie, celebrated by Byron in Don Juan , is | M. N. The Deeside Illy, runs to Ballater (43| M. ; fares, 6s. 10d., 3s. 7-|d.), whence coaches to Braemar (18 M. ; fares, 5s., 4s.; to Balmoral, 2s. 6d., 2s.) ; and tourists who have visited Aberdeen may return this way. Between Ballater and Braemar stands Balmo- ral Castle, the favorite residence of Queen Victoria. It is in the Scottish baronial style, and consists of two blocks, connected by wings. The property was bought by Prince Albert, and comprises 10,000 acres of cleared land, with 30,000 acres of deer-forest. Brae- mar ( Invercauld Arms ; Fife Arms) is in the midst of a wildly picturesque country. Prom this point one may push on to Glen Tilt and Blair Athole , and come down through the Killiecrankie Pass to Perth. Trav- ellers who do not wish to visit Aberdeen, etc., can go from Dundee to Edinburgh by Burntisland . SCOTLAND. 85 Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsford. Many persons will content themselves, after the trip through the Trossachs, to Oban and down, with a trip from Glasgow to Stirling and Edinburgh. The direct routes between the two principal cities of Scotland are uninteresting. Time, hrs. ; fares, by express train, 6s. 6d., 5s. Distance, 48 M. (Stirling to Edin- burgh, 5s. 6d., 3s. lid., 2s. 6d.). Edinburgh ( Edinburgh Hotel , opposite Waverley Bridge ; Royal , opposite the Scott Monument ; Wind- sor ; Bedford ; Clarendon ; The Central ; Rutland ; North British) is one of the most beautiful towns in Europe ; and history and legend, uniting their charms, have made it especially fascinating to the traveller. It has 345.000 inhab. (suburbs included). It is situated in the N. part of Midlothian, nearly 2 M. from the Firth of Forth. A large, open valley divides it into the Old and New Towns, the one a kind of epitome of the strange history of Scotland for the last 500 years ; and the other a singularly handsome and well-built modern town. There is a striking resemblance be- tween Edinburgh and Athens; and it was from this fact that the Scottish capital acquired its title of the “ Modem Athens.” A fire destroyed the town in 1537 ; and the oldest date on any private house is 1657. It was opposite the sloping ridge of rock, called Arthur s Seat (because King Arthur defeated the Saxons near by), that King Edwin, who gives his name to the city, founded his “burgh” in the 7th. century. For 400 years the city formed part of the Northumbrian kingdom. Early in the 11th century Lothian with its castle was added to the kingdom of the Scots. The city was long the favorite capital of the Stuarts. 86 EDINBURGH. Princes -St. is a terrace, separated from the Old Town by a broad valley of gardens. In the E. gar- dens stands the Scott Monument (built 1840-44), the niches of which are filled with figures of the great novelist's heroes and heroines. Beneath the central canopy is a statue of Sir Walter Scott. A staircase leads to the top (200 ft.). Near by, stand bronze statues of Livingstone, Adam Black, and Prof. Wilson (Chs. North). The gardens are divided into two sections by the Mound , on which stand the beauti- ful classic buildings of the Royal Institution and the National Gallery. The former contains the National Museum of Antiquities and the Statue Gallery (free Mon., Tues., Wed., and Sat., 10-4 ; 6d. Thurs. and Fri.). In the Museum, note John Knox’s Pulpit from St, Giles’s Church ; the Solemn League and Covenant of 1638, signed by Montrose ; the Blue Bibbon, worn by Prince Charles as Knight of the Garter; the Tor- turing Maiden ; and many Celtic and Homan antiqui- ties. Tli e School of Besiqn in this building has many pupils. The National Gallery (open daily, 10-4 ; fed. fee on Thurs. and Fri.) is S. of the Boyai Institu- tion. Here are good paintings by Van Dyck, Vero- nese, Watteau, Teniers, Reynolds, Hogarth, Land- seer, and Wilson. The annual exhibitions of the Royal Scottish Academy take place here from Feb. tc May. Flaxinan’s statue of Burns is here. See in W. Princes-St. Gardens statue of Allan Banisay, the Scot- tish pastoral poet. Nearly opposite the University Club is a statue of the famous physician, Sir James Simpson. In the W. churchyard is the grave of Thomas de Quincey. Near the Caledonian stat. is Castle Ter- race , on which stands the Synod Hall of the U. P. Church. Crossing the fly. from the W. garden you reach the base of the Castle Rock, and may ascend SCOTLAND. 87 by the Wellhouse Tower (a, part of the first town wall* erected in 1450) to the uppermost walk. The Castle stands on a precipitous rock about 300 ft. above the valley, accessible only from the E. side. This was an impregnable stronghold before the days of gunpowder. To-day it is an infantry barrack for 1,200 men, and has an armory containing 30,000 stand of arms. The so-called Half-Moon Battery faces to the N. E. The main approaches to the castle are by High- St. and Castle Hill. See the Stone Cross erected to Scottish soldiers who fell in the Indian mutiny. You enter the castle by crossing a drawbridge over a moat. See the State Prison , where many adherents of the Stuarts were confined. On the r. is the Argyll Battery ; a little beyond, the Armory , the Prison, the Old Palace Yard, and the Crown Room (open daily, 11-3). Here are the Regalia, sometimes called the Honors of Scotland. They consist of a crown (Robert Bruce’s, with which Charles II. was crowned), sceptre, sword of state (given by Pope Julius II. to James IV.), treasurer's rod of office, etc. Queen Mary's Room is a small apartment in which Queen Mary gave birth to James VI. On the wall is a black-letter inscription, with the Scottish arms. On the Bomb Battery stands Mons Meg } an enormous gun made at Mons, in Bel- gium, in 1476, of thick iron bars hooped together. From this battery see the whole of Edinburgh and en- virons. Here is Queen Margaret's Chapel , the oldest and highest part of the castle, built about 1050, and named for Malcolm Canmore’s Saxon queen. The castle has been captured by Henry II., Edward I., Bruce, Sir Wm. Douglas, and Cromwell; and repulsed Prince Charles’s army. High-St. was once one of the finest in Europe ; but its quaint old houses now compare but poorly with 88 EDINBURGH. those in the New Town. Note : Cannon-ball (fired from the castle in 1746) sticking in the gable of the old mansion of the Duke of Gordon ; Ramsay Lane , on the 1., where lived Ramsay the poet; the General As- sembly Rail of the , Church of Scotland. It was along the W. Bow that Montrose and Argyll were conveyed in the executioner’s cart to the Grassmarket, the place of public execution. On the 1., James's Court , where David Hume wrote part of his History of England, and where Boswell entertained Johnson in 1773, and Paoli. Burns lived in Baxter’s Close, and Cromwell in Byre’s Close, In Bank-St., the splendid Bank of Scotland ; on the r. the County Hall , near the open space where stood the old Tolbooth , called The Heart of Midlothian. The Tolbooth was the House of Parliament, the principal Court of Justice, and the prison. Midway in High-St. is St. Giles's Ch., whose tower is terminated by a huge imperial crown, visible from afar. The original ch. was built before 1350, and was the cathedral of Edinburgh. Knox minis- tered here, and here the Solemn League and Covenant was signed. The Reformers cast out 40 images of saints, and divided the building by partitions, so that now three congregations worship therein. James YL, when about to ascend the English throne, here took leave of the citizens. In the Crypt are the tombs of Montrose and the Regent Murray. S. of St. Giles is Parliament Square. See, in the pavement here, a stone inscribed “I. K. 1572,” which marks the grave of John Knox. Also, an equestrian statue of Charles II. On the S., Parliament House^ a modern Italian structure, now used as courts of justice. Parliament Hall , 122 ft. long and 49 wide, is very handsome. See statues and portraits of the Scottish jurists. Near by are the Advocates' Library and the Signet Library. SCOTLAND. 89 The first contains 300,000 vols., and a vast collection of MSS. See here the Mayence first edition of the Bible. On the N. E. side of St. Giles’s Ch. see the City Cross. Opposite is the Royal Exchange. Where High-St. is intersected by the N. and S. Bridges stands the Tron Church, named from a public tron, or weighing-machine. When the shopkeepers weighed falsely they were nailed up by the ears. Farther down is John Knox's House (open Wed. and Sat., 10-4; 6d.). The interior is a labyrinth of small and low-ceiled rooms. On the outside is the inscription : “ Lofe . God . aboue . al . and . yoor . nichtbovr . as . yi . self. ” Here Knox lived, — 1559-72, — and here he died. From Knox’s house to Holyrood, High-St., is called Canongate. On the L, Canongate Tolbooth, built in 1591. Back from the street, the Ch. of the Canons , built in 1688. In the Cemetery are buried Adam Smith, Dugald Stewart, and other celebrated Scots. On the L, Queensberry House, an ancient ducal palace, where the poet Gay once dwelt ; now used as a house of refuge. Holyrood Palace and Abbey was founded by King David I., who is said to have been saved from the horns of a stag, driven to bay near this spot, by a luminous cross in the sky. The Holy Hood, which David intended to deposit there, was a fragment of the True Cross. The palace (fee, 6d. ; free on Sat.) was begun by Charles IV., and burned by the English in 1544, and again by Cromwell’s soldiers in 1650. The most interesting section is Queen Mary's Apartments, entered by a door on the N. side of the inner court. The rooms on the first floor were occupied by Darnley. In the little boudoir Rizzio was assassinated while at supper with Mary, March 9, 1566, by Darnley, Ruth- veil, and others. The guides show some dark stains 90 EDINBURGH. on the floor, said to be Rizzio’s blood. The present palace was rebuilt in the reign of Charles II. The picture-gallery is hung with 111 hypothetical portraits of Scottish kings. The Chapel Royal is a beautiful but ruinous fragment of the old Abbey, founded by David. Charles I. was crowned here in 1633. In the vaults are buried David II., James II., James Y. and his Queen, and Lord Darnley. Just S. of Holyrood is the Queen s Park. Arthur’s Seat, 822 ft. high, is behind Holyrood. A good road, the Queen's Drive, runs round it. The ascent may be made from Holy- rood by crossing the Park, or by following the drive to Dunsappie Loch, and then up from that point. On the hill ar^ the ruins of St. Anthony's Chapel. See, near the park-keeper’s lodge at St. Leonard’s Hill, the cottage of “ Jeannie Deans.” The historic Cowgate , built in 1500, is now one of the dirtiest lanes in the Old Town. It ends in the Grassmarket, near the centre of which is the Corn Exchange. At the head of the Cowgate stands the house in which Lord Brougham was born ; and in the ch. -yard of Grey friars are the tombs of the historian Robertson, Allan Ramsay, and other famous men. lie riot' s Hospital , a magnificent turreted quadrangle (built by Inigo Jones, 1628-50), is worth a visit. The University (session Nov. -April), at the S. end of S. Bridge, was founded in 1582 by James YI. It has one of the best medical schools in Europe. There are about 2,000 students. Library, 150,000 vols. In Drummond-St., opposite the College, stood Darnley’s house, where he was blown up in 1567. Near the head of College Wynd stood the house in which Walter Scott was born. It was pulled down in 1871. Be- hind the University is the Edinburgh Museum of Science and Art. At the N. end of George IY. Bridge is the SCOTLAND. 91 Free Public Library erected mainly through the lib- erality of Mr. Andrew Carnegie. Crossing the, Mound into the New Town, one finds the streets as wide and handsome as in the Old tliey~ are narrow and ugly. Go up Calton Hill, at the E. end of Princes-St., and visit Nelson’s Monument (fee r 3d.); good view from the top. On this hill is the* National Monument to the Scottish soldiers who fell in the Peninsular and Waterloo campaigns, — an un- finished building, copied after the Parthenon at Ath- ens ; also, the Observatory ; and the Dugald- Stewart Monument , copied from the Clioragic Monument of Lysicrates at Athens. J ust beyond is Playfair’s monu- ment. At the base of the hill is the Royal High School , an adaptation of the Temple of Theseus at Athens. To the S. is Barns’s Monument , erected in 1830. At the corner of the N. Bridge, the Post-Office. In the Regis - try Office , on the r. at the end of Princes-St., are auto- graph letters of Queen Mary, etc. See Waverley Bridge. Other Objects of Interest. — The Royal Bank, in St. Andrew-Square ; the bronze statues of Pitt and George IV., by Chantrey ; St. Andrew’s Ch. ; statue to Chalmers, the Scottish divine; the Scottish National Memorial , erected in 1878, bas-reliefs illustrative of the Prince Consort’s career ; the Edinburgh Philo- sophical Institution in Queen-St. ; the stately Episcopal Cathedral of St. Mary , built by Sir Gilbert Scott ; the Bean Bridge, spanning the Water of Leith, 106 ft. high; the Dean Cemetery, where Lords Jeffrey, Cockburn, Rutherford and Murray, and Prof. Wilson are buried:, the Fettes College ; the S. Cemetery , at the Grange,, where Hugh Miller, Dr. Chalmers, and Dr. Guthrie, are buried ; the Royal Bank Garden; the Warriston Cemetery, where Alexander Smith the poet is buried. Leith (60,000), the port of Edinburgh, is 3 M. N., reached by horse-cars and steam-cars ; trains: every 1-2 hr. There are 2 piers stretching 3,000 ft.. LEITH. — R0SL1N CHAPEL. m into the Firth of Forth. Walk down one, take ferry •across to the other, and come back on it. Mary, Queen of Scots, had a brilliant reception on landing here from Calais, in 1561. Huge ship-building yards, glass-works, and flour-mills here. Large trade in corn and timber with Baltic ports. The Albert Bock covers 14 acres. Leith Fort was built by Cromwell. W. of Leith is Newhaven (. Peacock bin ; celebrated for fish •dinners, 2s. 6d.). Fishwives remarkable here for their •costumes, and noted for their virtue. Excursions from Edinburgh. — To Granton Pier, 2 M., stopping to visit the Royal Botanic Gardens (ad- mission free). Good view of Edinburgh. Magnificent pier, built by the Duke of Buccleuch. At Granton the English troops that invaded Scotland in 1544 were landed. From the pier, steam ferry to Burntisland in Fife. — To Trinity , good bathing. — To Hawthornden and Roslin Chapel. Train to Hawthornden stat. ; fares, Is., 10d., 8d. This charming mansion, “ grafted on an old fortified Peel tower,” was built by the poet Drummond, born in 1585 ; and here Ben Jonson came to visit him, walking all the way from London. Under the mansion are caves, inhabited by natives before huts were known. Cross the Esk and go along the romantic glen to Roslin (1^ M.), getting a fine view of the castle and chapel, as you leave the ravine. Battle fought in 1302 on the Moor near by. Roslin Chapel is the choir of an unfinished ch., founded in 1446. Fergusson thinks “the chapel owes its beauty entirely to the profusion of its decorations.” The castle, on a mound below, is a mere ruin. The Valley of the Esk is lovely. If you go back to Edinburgh by road, you can pass by Morning side, and see the stone on which James I. fixed his standard before he set out for Flodden Field. — Balkeith Castle , Newbattle Abbey , Balhousit SCOTLAND. 93 Castle , Borthwick Castle , Crichton Castle , all on or near the Esk, are well worth visiting. All Americans should visit Melrose, Abbotsford, and Dry burgh. Take express train (Pullman car attached) to Melrose stat. (37 M. ; 1 hr. ; fares, 7s. 5d., 5s. 7d., 3s. Id.). Hotels at Melrose: George ; Abbey ; King's Arms . Melrose Abbey was founded by David I. in 1126, and completed in 1116. The monks who dwelt there were among the first Cister- cians in Scotland. The Abbey was destroyed by Ed- ward II. in 1322, but rebuilt later under the patronage of King Robert Bruce. The architecture is Second Pointed, mingled with Elamboyant. The present struc- ture dates from about 1375. The Duke of Buccleuch now owns the Abbey. Entire length of edifice, 258 ft. ; breadth of transepts, 137 ft. The Choir , the Tran - septs , the Nave , entered by a wooden gate at the W. end, and the S. Aisle , are in best preservation. The Abbey forms a Latin cross, with a square tower, 84 ft. high, in the centre. Beside the high altar, under the noted E. Window , lies Alexander II. ; and here the heart of Robert Bruce is deposited. The tomb of the wizard, Michael Scott, is in the Aisle of St. Mary . Note the delicate chiselling of the outer side of the doorway leading into the cloisters. Over the S. door (outside) is a beautiful sculptured canopy, and above it a noble window. Above the E. window are figures, supposed to be David I. and his queen. Under the fifth window is Sir David Brewster’s tomb. Moonlight effects quite equal to Sir Walter’s enthusiastic descrip- tion. Some prefer to go directly from Melrose to Abbotsford, and to see the Abbey on the return. A one-horse carriage to and from Abbotsford (3 M.) costs 6s. 6d. ; double team, 8s. 6d. The walk is a pleasant one. Persons in haste can leave Edinburgh at 10. 3Q 94 ABBOTSFORD. — DRYBURGH ABBEY. a.m. ; reach Melrose in 1 hr. ; drive over to Abbots- ford, see it, and return, in 2 hrs. ; give i hr. to Mel- rose Abbey ; lunch at one of the hotels near by ; then take carriage to Dryburgh Abbey, see it, and return to Melrose by way of Bemerside Hill, in 2| hrs.; after which they can take an evening train S. Abbotsford (admission. Is.) was long the home of the “Great Enchanter of the North. 5 ’ The author’s study is the most interesting room. There the old writing-table, the plain leathern arm-chair, the reference books, seem to indicate that Sir Walter has but just left them. The Library (20,000 vols.) contains a bust of Scott, by Chantrey, and many miniatures. The roof is of carved oak, designed from models taken from Iloslin Chapel. The Drawing-room , where Sir Walter died, and the little octagonal dressing-room contain many precious relics. The Armory has a fine collection of Scotch weapons. Not far away is the Chiefswood Cottage , where the Lockharts dwelt. “ Thomas the Rhymer” once lived in the neighborhood. In Dryburgh Abbey (reached as above, or by rail from Melrose to Newtown St. Boswell’s, and then li M. across country) Scott was buried (in 1832). His tomb is in the beautiful St: Mary s Aisle, and on either side are the tombs of his wife and eldest son. Lock- hart also lies there. The Abbey (admission, 4d.) was founded in 1150 by Hugh de Moreville, and destroyed, like Melrose, by Edward I. The Chapter -House is still entire. On a hill near by is an effigy of Wallace, in red sandstone. You can now proceed S. Stop at Durham and York. Edinburgh to London (9 hrs ), 57s. Gd., 44s. 9d*, 32s. 8d. ; Melrose to Durham, 19s. 4d., 14s. 10d., 8s. Hid.; Melrose to York, 27s. 2d., 20s. 8d., 14s. 2£d. ; Edinburgh to York, 31s., 24s. Pullman sleeping-car, 8s. ENGLAND. ID ENGLAND. Newcastle, Durham, and York. N EWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE {Station Hotel; Douglas) is a place of great industrial interest. It was Pons Aelii , the second stat. on the Roman wall. Up to the Conquest it was called MonJcchester. New* castle is on 3 hills, on the Tyne, 9| M. from its mouth. The Castle-keep remains, with splendid great hall, ora- tory, king’s chamber, and museum of Roman antiqui- ties. See St. Nicholas's Cathedral (14th cent.), with tine spire and rare old monuments ; St. Andrew's , very ancient ; the Library ; the Royal Arcade ; and Stephen- son’ s High Level Bridge. Elswick , 2 M. out, is the seat of Sir Win. Armstrong’s immense ordnance works. Tynemouth has a beautiful ruined Priory. Newcastle is enterprising, but grimy ; “ the dimmest and smoki- est place I ever saw,” says Hawthorne. Much iron ship- building on the river. Population, with suburbs, 176,000. Made in 1882 an Episcopal see. Durham ( County Hotel ; Three Tuns), 15 M. from Newcastle, stands on a hill almost surrounded by the river Wear, and is noteworthy for its Cathedral and Castle. The latter was built by William the Conqueror, and is the seat of an University. The Cathedral crowns the eminence on which Durham is built. It was founded in 1093, replacing an older cli. “ We paused upon the bridge, and admired and wondered at the. beauty and glory of the scene, with those vast ancient towers rising out of the green shades, and looking as if they were based upon it. As I saw; it then, it was grand, vener- able, and sweet, all at Qnce ; and I never saw so lovely and w DURHAM. magnificent a scene, nor, being content with this, do I wish to see a better.” — Hawthorne. King’s English Cathedrals speaks of the “view of the castle walls, and the towers of the enormous ch. rising close beside it, and sheer with the face of the cliff ; ” and, indeed, there are few bits of English scen- ery lovelier than those in old Durham on the Wear (“This river Wear, with its sylvan wildness, and yet so sweet and placable, is the best of all little rivers,” says Hawthorne) ; or few chs. more majestic in the midst of a charming landscape. It contains the remains of the Venerable Bede (see some of his MSS. in the Cathedral library) ; those of St. Cuthbert, unearthed in 1827 ; and of Ralph, Lord Neville, who commanded at Ne- ville’s Cross. See The Galilee , a splendid chapel ; the E. Transept , or Chapel of the Nine Altars ; the magnifi- cent Norman Nave , with its unrivalled vista ; the Chap- ter-House , built 1133-43 ; the Te-Deum Window ; the Altar Screen , dating from 1380; the Cloisters; the Abbey Gateway ; etc. Choral services twice daily. Good views of the Cathedral from the Eramwellgate Bridge and the rly. stat. King thinks that the cathe- drals at Lincoln and Ely alone can be compared with this for majesty and beauty. Erom St. Giles's Ch .- yard , from the Prior s Path , and from Nine Trees , are excellent views. The Castle (fee, Is.) was long the residence of the Bishops of the Palatinate. See the Keep, now occupied by students; the beautiful Nor- man Gallery ; the Black Staircase ; the Great Hall , with its many pictures ; the tapestry in Bishop Tunstall's Gallery ; and the very curious old Chapel. Pleasant walks abound. Excursions to Finchale Priory M.), dating from 1496, and in a lovely vale beyond the Kepyer Woods; to Maiden Castle, a fortress ascribed to the Romans, and the Moated Grange ; to Neville's ENGLAND. I II. Ti7 1 f h a ^ Cross , commemorating the capture of David Neville in 1346 ; to Chester -le-Street , 6 M., with a noble ch. built 1286, near which is Lumley Castle (Lord Scarborough), with its famous Great Hall and Ball-Room (time of Edward I.), and Lambton Castle (Earl of Durham). From Durham you may proceed directly to York (63 M. ; fares, 8s. 10d., 7s. 5d., 5s. 6d.). But we recommend you to go (fares, 7s. 2d., 6s., 4s. 5d.) to Ripon ( Unicorn Hotel; Crown), a pretty city oil the river Ure. It has been an ecclesiastical site for 12 centuries. The Cathedral was begun in 1154, roughly used by the Scots in the Border wars, fell into ruin*, and was rebuilt in the 17th century. It was restored by Sir G. Scott in 1862-72. The most striking point of view is the W. Front. The nave has a lofty clere- story, and an oak roof with carved bosses, and some interesting old stained glass. The library is in the old Lady Chapel, above the chapter- house and vestry. The Choir Screen is a splendid pile of tabernacle- work. In the N. Choir Hall was formerly placed the Shrine of St. Wilfrid. Ripon retains many odd memorials of the past. In High- St. is St. Anne's Hospital , founded in Edward IV.’s reign. In Stamergate , chapel of Roman date. See the Hospital of St. Mary Magdalene ■or Lepers , founded 1140. Fountains Abbey, 3 M. ., within the grounds of Studley Royal (Marquess of Ripon), was established in 1132. The ruins cover more than 2 acres ; and when the abbey was complete it occupied 12 acres. Note almost perfect ch. on 1. From the N. transept rises a tower. There is also a great cloister, and a beautiful vaulted gallery, 300 ft. long. The Chapter-House has singular aisles, with double row of columns. Here are many tombs of the abbots. See, also, the Refectory , the Vaulted HARROGATE. — YOKH. " Kitchen , the Frater House. Returning to Ripon, take train to York (23 M.). On the way is Harrogate {Prospect Hotel; Crown ; Prince of Wales), one of the most charming of English watering-places. York {Station Hotel , large and convenient ; Black Swan ; N. E. Ely.; Harkefs), a city of 55,000 inh., 191 M. from London (fares 27s. 6d., 21s. 3d., 15s. 8d.). York is said to have been founded 983 years b. c. In 150 a. d. it was a great Roman station, bearing the name Eboracum , with an imperial palace. Here the Emperor Severus died. Here also Constantine the Great was perhaps born, and his father Con- stantius, died, in 307. In the Saxon era York was noted for the baptism of Edwin of Northumbria by Paulinus; and afterwards became the favorite capital of the Danes, whose chief was defeated by Harold in 1066. The visitor should first see the City Walls, 2f M. around, interrupted here and there by the rivers. These walls were built chiefly in Edward III.’s time, but have been often restored since. During the siege by the Parliamentary forces they suffered very much, tin the N. and S. W. they follow the old line of the Roman wall. See Micklegate Bar , a noble archway of Norman date, flanked by terraces with loopholes and battlements, and with figures of men-at-arms. Here the skulls of rebels to the Crown were formerly affixed. Close by, St. Mary's Nunnery. At Skeldergate , cross the Ouse by bridge. Beyond the ferry, the Bail Hill, on which William I. built his castle; Walmgate and Monkgate ; an interesting Norman Bar , with Decorated tipper story ; and at the Thirsk Road one may descend close to the Cathedral , or York Minster, which Hawthorne called “ the most wonderful work that ever came from the hands of ENGLAND. 99 men .” A wooden edifice was built here by Pauli- pus, and replaced by a stone basilica, begun by Edwin (in 627). The first Norman bishop erected a new ch., which was added to within the next 4 centuries. In 1360-1400 the old Norman choir was entirely replaced by the present one. The Minster was reconsecrated, July 3, 1472. The total length is 524 1-2 ft. ; breadth of nave, 104 ft. ; length of transepts, 322 ft. Height of central tower, 213 ft. The W. Front consists of a central facade, flanked by two .towers (201 ft.). The front, with its 3 N. towers, is Decorated. The buttresses ot the towers are very massive. Between them and the portal are niches filled with figures of saints. The N. Transept is noticeable for its beautiful Five Sisters’ Window, below which is an Early English arcade. The octagonal chapter- house, with superb 14th-century windows (“the richest I ever saw or imagined; with all their brilliancy, they were soft as rose-leaves,” said Hawthorne), is the finest in England. Imposing view of the choir and central tower. Magnificent E. win- dow, and row of sculptured figures underneath the sill. The S. Transept is fine Early English ; beautiful rose window here. The nave aisles are of unusual width. Beautiful view from the aisle to the end of the choir. Aisles, 486 ft. The great W. Window, restored in 1747, arouses the enthusiasm of archaeologists, who compare it for beauty and variety with the E. window at Carlisle. The quantity and exquisite beauty of the stained glass will remind the old traveller of some of the Spanish churches. This glass miraculously escaped damage when Fairfax took the town in 1644. The Puritans broke up most of the monuments and brasses. Among wall monuments, note those of Archbishop Sterne, the Earl of Stafford (son of him who was beheaded), Archbishop Scrope, — mentioned in Shakespeare’s Henri/ IV., — and Arch- 100 YORK MINSTER. bishop Markham. Visitors should see the nave in the evening, when the body of the church is beautifully lighted. The Central Tower is remarkable for its mas- sive piers. The Lantern Tower , finished in the 15th cen- tury, has a vaulted roof, 180 ft. from the ground. The N. Transept has an exquisite series of lancet windows, filled with red glass. The chapter-house dates from the , 14th century. “ I never saw a piece of human architecture so beautiful,” said Hawthorne. Doorway of trefoiled arches with a shaft, having a niche, in which is a figure of the Virgin and the Child. Notice the old oak door, covered with scrolled iron-work. The rich stone Roodscreen , separating the choir from the nave, is in 15 compartments, each containing a statue of a king of England down to Henry VI. The choir is of vast height and width, and Hawthorne said that its pillars and arches are so perfect that “ their beauty throws a gleam around them.” Its height is 102 ft. ; width, 99 ft. The stained glass in the clere-story is partly of the 14th century, partly later ; as in the choir and in the presbytery. The great E. Window is the largest in England that retains its original glazing. It was erected in 1405-8, and forms a complete epitome of the Bible. The Crypt may be visited from either the N. or the S. aisle. See first the Presbytery and the Lady Chapel. The Vestry , Record Room , Treasury > and Library (containing many MSS.), may be seen if desired. The Horn of Ulphus, laid on the altar by one of the Lords of Yorkshire as a sign that he gave certain lands to the Church, is in the vestry. Hawthorne says of this cathedral : “ It seems to have come down from above, bringing an awful majesty and sweetness with it; and it is so light and aspiring, with all its vast columns and pointed arches, that one would hardly wonder if it should ascend back to heaven again by its mere spirituality.’ 3 ENGLAND. 101 Other Objects of Interest . — Within the grounds of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society, on the Ouse (tee. Is.) is St. Mary's Abbey. After the dissolution, part was changed into a royal palace. See the ruins of SL Leonard's Hospital , founded by Athelstan, and rebuilt by Stephen ; and, beyond the Hospital, the Multangular Tower , Roman below and mediaeval above. Here are many stone coffins from the Roman cemetery. Near this is St. Olaoe's Ch., in the graveyard of which Etty the painter lies buried. Near the river is the Museum of Antiquities, with very interesting collections. The Museum of the Philosophical Society contains a valuable geological exhibit. — The Castle, now a prison, is a massive edifice in which occurred many events in the early history of York. It was here that the massacre of the Jews by a body of nobles and citizens, indignant at the favors shown to the Hebrews by Henry II., took place in the reign of Richard I. Over the gateway is a small Early English chapel. — All Saints' Ch ., in North- St., is of great age, and contains Roman masonry and. rich stained glass. See Holy Trinity Ch., Kings Court, St. Crux Pavement, where the Earl of Northumberland, beheaded in 1572, is buried. St. Helen Stonegate, is dedicated to the mother of Constantine. See also St. Lawrence , outside Walmgate Bar; St. Mary the Younger , Bishop Hill ; and St. Michael's , Spurrier Gate. At the latter the ringing of the curfew bell is still kept up. The principal public buildings are : The Mansion House ; the Guildhall , with nave and aisles separated by oak pillars, and rich stained windows ; Merchants' Hall , in Eossgate ; and St. William's Col- lege , founded in 1460 Hawthorne admired York’s “old chs., gnawed like a bone by the tooth of Time.” Excursions from York. — To Scarborough ( Crown 102 WHITBY. — HULL. — LEEDS. Hotel; Grand; Alexandra; Prince of Wales ; Royal ; Pavilion); time, l|-2 hrs. ; fare, 5s. 7d., 4s. 8d., 3s. 5^d. This is a fashionable seashore resort. On a promontory are the ruins of an ancient Norman castle. The Spa, the Promenade (6d.), the Aquarium , and Oliver s Mount (superb view), are reached by the Cliff Bridge . View from the Castle Rock very fine. Near the castle is the venerable Ch. of St. Mary. (Fares from London, 35s., 26s. lid., 19s. 6d.) — To Whitby ( Royal Hotel; Crown; Angel), 56^ M. ; fares, 7s. 6d., 6s. 3d., 4s. 8d. Whitby is a summer resort, with superb sea-views. Museum and Library on the W. pier. Many shops for the sale of jet. Charming drives to Robin Hood’s Bay, Mulgrave Castle, and along the Esk dales. Scott’s Marmion has made this region classic. Capt. Cook’s circum- navigating ships were built at Whitby. Here are the venerable ruins of Whitby Abbey, where Hilda ruled, 658-80, and Caedmon paraphrased the Bible in Saxon verse. — To Beverley ( Beverley Arms), dating from the 8th century. Beverley Minster merits close study, with its superb Percy Shrine, rich tabernacle-work, Lady Chapel, and high-towered fronts. St. Mary’s Ch. is a splendid cruciform building, with many sculptures. S M. distant (fares. from York, 5s. 7d., 4s. 8d., 3s. 5Jd.) is Hull {Royal Hotel; Victoria; Imperial ), a town of 154,000 inliab., ranking as a seaport next to London and Liverpool. See the Holy Trinity Ch.; the Town Hall ; the Wilberforce Column (72 ft.) ; St. Mary's Ch.; the Trinity House , established 1369 ; the ancient High- St. ; the Merchants' Exchange; and the Royal Institution . — To Leeds {Queen’s Hotel; Imperial; Great Northern Station), the chief town in Yorkshire, with 260,000 inliab. It is 32 M. fromYork (fares, 3s. 6d., 2s. lid., 2s. ljd.). Coal and iron abound on all sides. ENGLAND. 103 Keclus calls Leeds “ first in the world in the woollen business.” The public buildings are magnificent. The Town Hall has a tower, 225 ft. high, and 4 rich Corin- thian fagades. The Royal Exchange, the Mixed-Cloth Hall , the White-Cloth Hall (built in 1775), the New Infirmary , are all on a generous plan. Near Leeds is Kirkstall Abbey , beautiful ruins of ch., cloisters, and chapter-house ; Temple Newsam , rich in paintings; anci Weetwood, noted for idyllic scenery. From Leeds it is 8 M. (time, \ hr.; fares, Is. 2d., Is., 9d.) to Brad- ford {Victoria Hotel ; Alexandra ), world-famous for its woollens and worsted yarns. The town (210,000 inliab.) is prettily situated in a narrow vale. The Town Hall y of mediaeval design, was erected in 1873, and has a campanile, and a set of chimes, said to be superior to those of Bruges, in Belgium. Saltaire, the model town built by Sir Titus Salt, is 4 M. distant. The factory covers 12 acres, and is 6 stories high. Ely. hence (7-8 M.) to Keighley Junction, whence a branch line conducts (4 M.j to Haworth {Black Bull Inn). The village has been much altered since the time of the Brontes. The parsonage, where lived from 1820 to 1860 the father of the marvellous girls who wrote Shirley, Jane Eyre, etc., has been much changed. All the Bronte family, except Anne, are buried at Haworth. There is a tablet to their memory in the ch. ; and Char- lotte’s signature may be seen on the register. Many Americans make pilgrimages to this rude moorland country, hallowed by the manifestations of genius. Manchester, Lincoln, Derby, etc. We recommend the tourist to return to Leeds, and go thence to Manchester. 200 trains pass daily be- tween these two towns (42| M.; fares, 7s., 5s. 3d., 104 MANCHESTER. 3s. 9d.). On the way you traverse the Morley tunnel (2 M. long) ; and Huddersfield (Queer? s Hotel ; George ), a handsome manufacturing town of 81,000 inhab. Near by is Kirklees Hall, on the site of the nunnery where, if we may believe the old ballads, Robin Hood was bled to death by a nun, and where the cele- brated outlaw’s grave is shown. Stanedge Tunnel (3 M. long) comes next. Near Ashton-under-Lyne are 100 cot. ton-mills. Beyond Ashton the scenery is extremely beautiful. Manchester ( Queen's Hotel; Grand Hotel; Victoria; Albion; Trevelyan ; Royal; Waterloo) and Salford are connected by numerous bridges. The population numbers over 500,000 ; and the two towns cover 9 square M. Reclus says : “ Manchester was the Mancu - niiim of the Romans, and in the 14th century was already known for its manufactures of stuffs, established by Flemish artisans after the religious wars. In our time it is the ‘cotton metropolis/ and its leading business men are cotton lords?' The Gothic Cathedral (142 1) was restored in 1845-68. The celebrated New Free Trade Hall stands in Peter- St., near the scene of the “ Peterloo Massacre.” The large hall, in which Cobden and Bright have made many famous speeches, can hold 7,000 persons. The New Town Hall , the Royal Exchange , the Corn Exchange , are imposing modern structures. In front of the Royal Infirmary , in Piccadilly, are bronze statues of the Duke of Wellington, Sir Robert Peel, Watt, and Dalton (the chemist). Chetham College has a fine library. Owen's College, in Oxford-St., is an elegant structure. In the Grammar School De Quincey received his early edu- cation. See the Assize Courts , good example of Gothic architecture ; the vast County Jail; the Museum 'of Natural History ; the Albert Memorial. ENGLAND. 105 Manchester is reached from London by the Midland Rly. (189 M.; 5 hrs. ; fares, 24s. 6d., 20s., and 15s. 5|d.), which traverses a delicious country. It is 41 M. (fares, 7s. 6d., 4s. 7d., 3s. 5d.) hence to Sheffield {Royal Hotel ; Victoria; Angel; King's Head), the headquarters of the steel and cutlery trade of England (with suburbs, 284,500 inhab.). Sheffield is shrouded in smoke, so that one scarcely gets a glimpse of its really fine situation on a chain of hills. St. Peter's Ch., with the Shrewsbury Chapel; the Manor House , restored by the Duke of Norfolk ; the Shrewsbury Hospital; the statute of Elliott, the Corn-Law Rhymer; and the Cutlers' Hall , are the principal sights. From Sheffield it is 18 M. (fares, 2s. 9d., 2s. 2d., Is. 6d.) to Doncaster ( Angel Hotel ; Reindeer ; Elephant ), a clean and welhbuilt town, of Roman origin, on the Don ; noted tor its fine Ch. of St. George , and tor the famous St. Leger race, established in 1778. Near by is the grand old Conisborough Castle , described in Ivanhoe . It is 39 M. (fares, 5s. lid., 4s. 3d., 3s. ljd.) hence to the ancient cathedral-town of Lincoln ( Great Northern Railway Hotel ; Sara- cen’s Head ; Spread Eagle), which was at the time of the Norman Conquest one of the chief British cities. Under the Roman domination it had been one of the best of their fortified camps. In 1141 King Stephen was taken prisoner, after a battle at Lincoln by Robert, Earl of Gloucester. There the Dauphin’s party was overthrown by the Earl of Pembroke, in Henry III.’s minority. The city was stormed by the Parliamentary army in 1644. The Cathedral stands on the summit of a hill, whence it can be seen for many miles around. It was founded in 1075, by Bishop Remigius of Ee- 9 am P ; destroyed by an earthquake, about 1200 ; and rebuilt by Bishop Hugh of Avalon, 1220-60, and dedi- 106 LINCOLN. — BOSTON. cated to the Virgin. The towers on the splendid W. front command a view down the vale of the Witham, as far as Boston. The length is 482 ft. ; width of W. front, 174 ft.; height of central tower, 260 ft. Note the Norman font of Remigius; the Galilee Porch; the choir, with wonderful wood-carving and stone-vaulting ; the Easter Sepulchre ; the delicately carved screens ; the lady chapel. The big bell weighs 5| tons. See the Cloisters , on the N. side, and their Roman pave- ment. In the Library are many Roman antiquities. Monuments to Catherine, wife of John of Gaunt, and Joan, Countess of Westmoreland, and of many old bishops and deans. The greater part of the ch. is Early English ; but part of the W. front is Norman. The 13th century produced nothing finer than the rose- window in the N. transept. In the S. transept there is also a fine rose- window. See the sculptured angels in the Presbytery , or Angel Choir. Near by is the Bishop’s Palace, founded by Bp. Hugh, which had fallen into ruins but is now rebuilt ; the Castle, erected by William the Conqueror (now the county courts) ; the Newport, a splendid Roman ruin, and fragments of the Roman wall ; John of Gaunt’s Palace ; the Guildhall ; and the fine old Stonebow gate. Boston (Peacock Hotel ) is 1-1J hrs. S. E. of Lin- coln, and has 15,000 inhab., many antiquities, and some commerce. It is 5 M. from the sea. It was called Botolph’s Town from the saint who founded a monastery here, in 654. St. Botolph’s Ch., built 1309, is the largest British parish ch. without aisles, and is 291 ft. long and 99 ft. wide, with a splendid tower, 300 ft. high, visible from afar over the sea and the fens. 32 M. by rly. from Boston is Peterborough . Go next from Lincoln to Nottingham. Just outside of Lincoln, curious Ch. of Bracebridge All Saints. At General Map of London showing Main Streets, ENGLAND. 107 Newark (Clinton Arms ; Ram ; Saracen' s Head) is St. Mary Magdalene , a splendid old ch., with fine brasses, stained windows, and a tall tower, sustaining statue* of the Apostles ; also a venerable ruined Castle , built, in the reign of Stephen, and often besieged. Herein died King John. Belvoir Castle , the palace of the Duke of Rutland, is near by. Newark w T as once fa- mous for its inns, and the Saracen's Head existed in the time of Edward III. Sir Walter Scott makes Jeannie Deans rest there on her way from Midlothian to London. Just before reaching Nottingham, the train traverses the grounds of Colwick Hall , where Byron’s “Mary Cha worth 55 lived. Nottingham (Clarendon Hotel; Flying Horse; Royal ; Maypole ; George, in the town) stands on a rocky eminence N. of the river Trent. It is the chief place for the making of lace and hosiery in England (230,000 inhab.). The old town is a labyrinth of nar- row and crooked streets. The Market-Place is an open area of 5J acres, with the Exchange at its E. end. See the N. and S. Parades ; Mortimer's Hole , a strange ex- cavation from the castle to the river ; Standard Hill , where King Charles I. unfurled for the first time the royal flag in 1642; the Rock Holes; the Park; and Swinton Hermitage. St. Mary's Ch. is a grand old cruciform building. This was a Danish town, and William I. erected a castle here, which was often be- sieged. The Castle, on the same lofty rock of red sandstone, was destroyed by the mob in 1831. It has been restored, and is occupied by the Midland Counties Art Museum. Splendid view over the Yale of Trent, to Belvoir Castle. The country round about is filled with memorials of Byron. Newstead Abbey, which he inherited when it was almost in ruins, is 11 M. N, W. Go by rail to Linby stat., 9J M., and walk (1| M.) to 108 DERBY. the house, which is not usually shown. An Augus- tinian abbey was founded here by Henry IT. in 1170, and fell to Sir John Byron in 1510. The grounds and forest are beautiful. The residence has been carefully restored. The ruined ch., “ a glorious remnant of the Gothic pile,” and the cloister, with a fountain in its centre, are very fine; the poet’s mean bedroom is kept as he left it. Many beautiful and art-enriched halls are shown. On the lawn is the monument to Boatswain, Byron’s dog. In front of the abbey is the lake, so often mentioned in the poems. Here you are on the border of Sherwood Forest, with legends of Robin Hood at every turn. Robin Hood's Hill and Fountain Dale are near Newstead Ab- bey. 3 M. off is Annesley Old Hall, containing the “ antique oratory ” mentioned in Byron’s “ The Dream.” Hucknall Ch., where Lord Byron, his mother, and his only daughter are buried, is 1 M. from Linby. Re- turning to Nottingham, spend the night there, and take early train (15f M. : Is. 9d., Is. 6d.) to Derby ( Midland Hotel , close to stat ; Royal, in the town); and thence to Rowsley (fares, 2s. lid., Is. 9|d). Derby was the Roman stat. Derventio, and here Richardson the novelist was born. The fine Derby spar is found near by. There are rare old monuments in the Cavendish chapel of All Saints' Ch . Derby is the entrance to that delightful region known as The Peak of Derbyshire. Those who do not wish to make detours can reach Derby or Rowsley, from Liver- pool and Manch ester, by the Midland Line. The Peak is a picturesque district, containing “that beautiful scenery of the millstone grit and mt. limestone for which the county is so pre-eminent. This scenic in- terest, however, does not arise so much from the ele- vation of the hills as from their romantic grouping and ENGLAND. 109 the bold and varied arrangement of the dales and doughs, which offer exquisite landscape pictures.” Reach Rowsley at 9 a.m., and (leaving your baggage — ex- cept umbrella and waterproof — in the stat. cloak-room) make a bargain with a driver, and go at once to Had- don Hall, 1-| M. (1 person, 2s. 6d. ; 2-3 persons, Is. each. Bargain for the same driver to take you both to Haddon and Chatsworth. If he waits, you must make special terms). Haddon Hall, on a hill E. of the Wye, which is crossed by a picturesque bridge, is an ancient seat of the Dukes of Rutland. There lived Sir George Vernon (1545), whose profuse hospitality procured him the title of “ King of the Peak; 05 thence fair Dorothy Vernon eloped to marry her lover, Sir John Manners js and there, in the State Bedchamber , are the famous tapestries illustrating iEsop’s Fables, woven at the Gobelins in Paris. Visitors are shown the Chaplain's Boom , the Chapel , the Banqueting -Hall, the Dining-Boom, with the inscription, “ Drede God and honor the Kyng,” over the fireplace ; the Drawing- Boom, the State and Earl's Bedchambers , and P event's Tower . Small fee to servant. Chatsworth (3 M. from Rowsley ; 4 M. from Bake- well stat.) is the finest mansion in England. It is a favorite residence of the Duke of Devonshire, and is called the “Palace of the Peak. 57 The old Hall was used as a fortress in the Civil War, both by forces of King and Parliament. The present S. front dates from 1687 ; the E. side, great hall, and staircase, from 1690 ; the N. front, from 1704. See the Conservatory, Great Hall (67 X 20 ft.), Chapel , Grand Drawing-Boom, Libraries , Dining -Boom (58 X 30 ft.), Sculpture Gal- lery (103 X 30 ft.), Orangery , Sketch Gallery (original drawings by Angelo, Raphael, Durer, Titian, etc.), State Apartments , Gallery of Paintings (Titian, Salvator 110 MATLOCK BATH. — BAKEWELL. Rosa, Tintoretto, Murillo, Holbein, etc.), State Draw- ing-Room. Two of the state rooms are called those of Mary, Queen of Scots, because she was long a prisoner there. The Arboretum , Conservatory , and Gardens (6d. to gardener) should be seen. The French Garden comes first, then the Camellia and Orchid Houses ; next a copper willow-tree ; then the vast Conservatory (276 X 123 ft.). See the Emperor Fountain , and go out by the Italian garden. The Old Hunting Tower and Queen Mary's Bower deserve notice. Chats worth is open daily, 11-5 (Sat. 11-1). Queer old village of Edensor Chatsworth Hotel , good), outside Park gates. In the church is the tomb of Lord Frederick Cavendish, assassinated in Dublin in 1882. Returning to Rowsley, lunch at the Peacock Inn, an old hostelry, with a pretty garden. (Write or telegraph ahead for rooms.) The famous Matlock Bath \New Bath Hotel ) is in the romantic Matlock Dale, on the Derwent. Said Hawthorne: “I -have never seen any- where else such exquisite scenery/’ Rocky and foliage- clad crags rise 300 ft. above the river, and there are many. fine grottos in them. Masson hill, 1,000 ft. high, commands a grand view down the Derwent defiles. Branch line from Matlock to Buxton (St. Anne's Hotel; Palace; Old Hall ), 1 hr. from Manchester. Fine springs here, in the Wye valley, efficient in curing rheumatism and gout. 12 acres in public gardens. — Bake well (' Rutland Arms Inn) has a fine eh., with Vernon and Manners monuments. The rural beauty I of this section is not surpassed in England. Hardwick Hall and Bolsover Castle, both in Derbyshire, are superb mansions, filled with art-treasures. The former may be reached from Clay-Cross slat., between Derby and Shef- field •, the latter from Langwith. Burton-on-Trent is the site of vast ale breweries. We now suggest that you go from the Derbyshire district to ENGLAND. Ill Birmingham ( Queen's Hotel , at the stat.; Great Western; Hen and Chickens). Fares from Manchester to Birmingham, 12s. 6d., 9s. 3d., 6s. ll^d.; from Rowsley, 8s. 7d., 5s. 3^d. You can leave Nottingham early, go to Rowsley, Haddon Hall, Chatswortli, and Buxton, and get to Birmingham at night. Birming- ham is the birthplace of Priestley, a centre of liberal thought, and a great manufacturing place (435,000 inhab.). Camden said of old “ Bremicham ” (Brum- magem ?), that “ it echoed with the noise of anvils, for there were a great many smiths.” Almost everything that can be made of metal is fabricated at Birmingham. Visit the Elkington’s Electro-plate Works ; Gillott’s Steel Pen Works ; the Mint ; the gun-works ; the Town Hall , in which are held the renowned triennial musical festivals. New Corpora- tion Offices ; Free Library ; New Post Office; Mar- ket Hall ; Exchange ; Birmingham and Midland In- stitute; King Edward Vi's Free Grammar School; General Hospital ; St. Philip's Ch. ; Aston Hall , in the handsome Aston Park. The Botanical Gardens (Is.; on Mon., Id.) are worth notice. Excursions may be made to (13 M.) Wolver- hampton ( Star and Garter ; Swan), the metropo- lis of the Black jCountry , which has manufacturing trade in tin and iron goods (85,000 *inhab.). Things to see : St. Peter's Ch.; Queen s- Square, with eques- trian statue of Prince Albert; Library ; Theatre; Orphan Asylum. — To (29 M ) Stafford (Northwest- ern Hotel ; Swan), a well-built modern town. Izaak Walton was a native of this place. See old timber-houses, especially the Noah’s Ark, in Crabbery-St. ; St. Mary's and St. Chad's Chs.; the Bury Bing ; Stafford Castle, 4 M. out. Leather is the chief industry. — To Kidderminster, fa- mous for the manufacture of carpets. The old ch. is a fine Gothic monument. A walk through 1 12 WORCESTER. — COVENTRY. the cli. -yard commands views of the town and the river Stour. In the vicinity are the Clent Hills. Richard Baxter preached here 25 years. — To Worcester (Star Holel ; Unicorn ), nearly in the centre of England, and finely situated on an ascent from the Severn. The Foregate-St. is very handsome. The Cathedral is an elegant structure, built in 1021-1374;, 394; ft. long, 78 wide, 162 high. Beautifully decorated in the lady chapel, where the roof is covered with figures painted iu medallions. The fine stone pulpit in the choir is restored. See the enamelled metal cross above the choir-screen. Among the monuments is King John’s, one of the most ancient in England ; statues of Bishops Wulstan, Oswald, and Hough; tomb of Prince Arthur, son of Henry V., a fine Gothic bit. The cloisters where the monks once resided are interesting. The handsome decagonal chapter-house is now used as a national school. Other public buildings: Episcopal Palace , close by the Severn; the Conimandery; Edgar s Toioer; the Guild- hall , with royal statues; and the Hopmarket , the most important in England. Coventry, Kenilworth, Warwick, Stratford-on-Avon. It is a relief to get out of the region of factories into the delightful quiet of old Coventry ( Craven Arms ; King's Head Hotel ; Queen's Hotel). Distance from Birmingham, 18f M.; fares, 3s. 6d., 2s. 6d., Is. 7Jcl. Coventry was formerly the third city in the kingdom. Every one knows the story of Lady Go- diva. An effigy, called Peeping Tom , is still exhibited at the corner of Hertford-St. In Richard II.’s time the city was defended by a wall, with 26 towers and 12 gates, some of which remain ; but the greater ENGLAND. 113 part of them were destroyed by Charles II. Coven- try retains much of its ancient picturesque aspect,, with, narrow streets, fine old gables, and half-timber houses, and several hrs. can be profitably spent there. The- “ three tall spires ” of which Tennyson speaks are those- of St. Michael’s, Trinity, and Christ Chs. St. Michael's , one of the finest Gothic structures in England, was founded about 1133. The charming spire, 303'ft. high, was built 1373-95. The eh. was rebuilt in 1434, and is 400 ft. long. “ Most magnificent, — so old, yet enduring; so huge, so rich,” Hawthorne found it. Trinity Ch. is close to St. Michael’s, and was once a fine specimen of Gothic. Dugdale finds a mention of its annexation to the Benedictine Priory in 1260. Christ Ch. was founded by the begging Grey friars. The spire is the only remaining pail of the old ch. ; St. John's Ch ., at the N. W. end of the city, is a line old building, with a massive tower. St. Mary's Hall is a beautiful edifice near St. Michael’s. It originally belonged to St. Catherine’s Guild, and was built about the middle of the 14th century. The Free School; Grey friars or Ford Hospital; the Workhouse , built out of the remains of the Whitefriars Monastery (founded in 1342) ; and the remnants of the gates, are other objects of interest. A few fragments of the Benedictine Priory, founded in 1043, are left. About 4 M. out is Stone- leigh Abbey, a place of great antiquity, held before the Conquest by King Edward. Henry II. granted it to a body of Cistercian monks. The site is a lovely one, the Avon bathing two sides of the verdant slopes on which the old monastic house was located. There is a fine park in front; and a road, crossing the Avon by an ekgant stone bridge, conducts to the gateway. The building is clothed with ivv, and its ponderous 8 114 KENILWORTH. oaken gates are very curious. Within the state apart- ments are many paintings by Rembrandt, Van Dyck, Holbein, Teniers, etc. For those who have time, nothing can be more de- lightful than a leisurely tour on foot from Coventry to Kenilworth, Warwick, and Stratford-on-Avon; going out from this region of fine old castles, lovely valleys, and beautiful fields, by Rugby, and thence either straight down to London, or to Peterboro’, and Ely, making a detour to Cambridge and Oxford. For those who de- sire to see Kenilworth, Warwick, and Stratford, and get away to London at night, there will be no other oourse than to take a carriage at Coventry, Learning- ton, Warwick, or Stratford. A beautiful trip is as fol- lows : Go from Coventry (5 M.), by a road shaded all the way by fine elms and sycamores, to Kenilworth {King's Arms Inn ; Castle ), where the chief attraction is Kenilworth Castle , standing on an eminence to the W. The first buildings, in a deep hollow overgrown by underbrush, are the base and side walls of the Gallery Tower , the S. E. end of the Tilt Yard , and originally the chief entrance to the Castle. Enter by a gate in the N. wall (trifling fee), and first arrive at Leicester's Gatehouse , a square building of 4 stories, Hanked at each angle with an octagonal tower, and embattled. This building is not entered by visitors, as it is a private residence. Passing on, you come directly in front of the main buildings ; and looking W. have the inner court in full view. The E. side of the square was composed of buildings erected by King Henry VIII. and Sir Robert Dudley, but is now wholly destroyed. On the r. is Cnesars Tower , a vast keep of immense strength, with walls many feet thick. Beyond is the building called Merry n; s Tower , which all readers of Scott’s novel of Kenilworth will visit. The chambers ENGLAND. 115 are all arched with stone, and it is supposed that they served as prisons in the time of Henry II. Erom the top may be seen on the r. the remains of the Swan Tower , which formed the N. W. angle of the outer walls built in Henry III.’s time. Adjoining Mervyn Tower, on the S., is the great Banqueting -Hall, built by John of Gaunt. The floor was supported on a stone vaulting, carried on parallel rows of pillars, the remains of which may be seen. Notice the great height of the windows, which were filled with tracery, and transomed. Beyond the Banqueting-Hall are the White Hall, the Presence Chamber, and the Privy Chamber; and still S. are the remains of Leicester’s buildings, of great height and remarkable architectural beauty. The cas- tle was founded by Geoffroy de Clinton, Chamber- lain to Henry I. ; to pass presently to the crown of Henry III. It was granted to Simon de Montfort, and became the resort for the insurgent nobles. After Leicester’s defeat and death, his eldest son sheltered himself in this fortress ; and there was a famous siege, in which the castle held out for 6 months. In Edward I.’s time a magnificent tournament occurred here. Edward II. lay a prisoner in the castle at one time ; and the visits of Elizabeth to Kenilworth were in 1566, 1568, and 1575. The last was immortalized by Scott. Erom Kenilworth by the highway to Warwick is I about 5 M., by Leek Wootton , a village built on a rocky eminence and quite picturesque. 1 M. beyond is Blacklow Hill, where, from an opening in the trees, is seen the monument erected to mark the spot on which Piers Gaveston, Earl of Cornwall, was be- headed. 1^ M. from Warwick, is Guy's Cliff \ the handsome country-seat of Lady Percy, and a place of religious retirement more than 4 centuries previous to the time of Earl Guy Warwick, who is supposed at this 116 WARWICK. place to have finished his life of adventure, as a her. mit. Leland, in Henry VIII.’s time, calls this “the abode of pleasure, a place meet for the Muses.” Cam- den, Dugdale, and Fuller are all equally enthusiastic in its praise. Guy s Cave and Guy's Well are shown. Warwick ( Warwick Arms; Globe ; Wool-pack: these houses, though comfortable, are small and apt to be crowded ; it is best to telegraph for rooms in ad- vance) is near the centre of beautiful Warwickshire, on a rocky hill, past which the Avon flows. The town is of Saxon origin, and was formerly surrounded with strong walls, of which there are now but few rem- nants. The old gates are interesting ; and the Hospital , founded by the Earl of Leicester, is one of the fiuest specimens of half-timber buildings. It stands at the W. end of High-St., of which its chapel, which pos- sesses a very beautiful window, forms a striking orna- ment. Under the chapel is a curious vaulted passage of great antiquity, through which an entrance into the town once passed. A tower, built by Thomas de Beau- champ, in the time of Richard II., rises above the chapel. This formed the W. gateway of the fortifi- cations. It has a richly groined ceiling. In this hos- pital a limited number of brothers are allowed. They have to wear a livery when abroad, consisting of a fine blue broadcloth gown, with a silver badge of a bear and ragged staff, Lord Leicester’s device. St. Mary's is the principal ch. in Warwick. It was founded prior to the Conquest ; and contains many curious monuments, and Beauchamp Chapel , which is considered the most splen- did in England, after that of Henry YU. Warwick Castle, one of the noblest residences in England, is S. E. of the town, on a high rock which overlooks the Avon. Before entering the castle, walk £*wn to the stone bridge, from which there is a fine ENGLAND. 117 dew of the castle. The moonlight view is striking. Enter the castle by a huge gate, and walk up a winding way, bordered by moss-grown rock, to the outer court, formerly a vineyard, renowned for its grapes in the time of Henry IY. On the r. is Guy's Tower , 128 ft. high, 30 ft. in diameter, and with walls 10 ft. thick ; and on the 1. the venerable Caesar's Tower , coeval with the Norman Conquest. This is connected with Guy’s Tower by an embattled wall, in the centre of which is the great arched gateway, flanked by towers and suc- ceeded by a second, whose towers and battlements rise above those of the first. After passing the double gateway you are in the inner court, and see the great castle directly in front of you. When the family is absent (and it generally is), the interior is shown. The rooms shown are the Great Hall , from which a view is obtained through the state rooms, a straight line of 333 ft., terminated at the W. end by a window. From this great hall may also be seen, at the end of the Chapel Passage , Van Dyck’s celebrated painting of Charles I. You pass through the Red Drawing-Room ; the Cedar Drawing-Room , containing a bust by Hiram Powers, and a portrait of Charles I. by Van Dyck ; and next enter the Gilt Drawing-room which contains many old paintings. The bed and furniture in the State Bedroom belonged to Queen Anne. The tapestry in this room is very fine. The Boudoir is a veritable museum ; and the effect of the immense height, and the tree-tops, which come up to the very windows, is curious. * Here are pictures by Holbein, Rubens, Vandyke, etc. From thence pass through the Arm- ory Passage to a billiard-room, rich with portraits ; a Compass- Room, the Chapel, and the Library, in wdiich is the famous Kenilworth buffet, made of oak growm on the Kenilworth estate. In the Breakfast 118 , WARWICK CASTLE. Room is a fine collection of paintings by Canaletto, who resided for some time at the castle. (Small fee to ser- vant who shows the apartments : for one person, 6d. or Is.; for a party of 4, 2s.) Caesar’s Tower is not shown. It has a dark and dismal dungeon beneath it, on the walls of which are scrawls made by prisoners. Guy’s Tower, the top of which is reached by a flight of 133 steps, commands a noble view of Coventry, Kenilworth, Guy’s Cliff, Leamington, and the neigh- borhood. The gardens are very fine, and on the hill of the tower are some superb cedars of Lebanon. In the Porter’s Lodge are relics of the hero Guy. Hawthorne calls this “ one’s very idea of an old castle.” Prom Warwick to Leamington is 2 M. A rly. runs from Lea- mington through Warwick to Stratford. (Prom War- wick to Stratford, 13|- M.) The most desirable route, however, is by highway, 8 M. from Warwick, past Charlcote, the country-seat of the Lucys, to Stratford. This is a delightful excursion, and we recommend those wdio can to make it on foot, that they may linger among the beautiful sylvan scenery, and approach Stratford through the pleasant meadows. Charlcote House is off the route to Stratford, but the drivers usually take you close to it. It is a handsome mansion in the midst of a beautiful park, well stocked with deer, the sight of which will call to mind the youthful ad- venture of Shakespeare as a poacher, and the prose- cution which decided him to render Sir Thomas Lucy immortal as Justice Shallow. Prom Cfharlcote you pass through numerous fine bits of woodland country, and, crossing the Avon Bridge , enter Stratford-on-Avon ( Shakespeare Hotel ; Red Horse ; Falcon ), a quiet old-fashioned place, with wide and well-kept streets, and many handsome mansions. The Town Hall was dedicated to the memory of the ENGLAND. 119 poet. Here is a statue of Shakespeare presented by Garrick. On the pedestal see lines from Ilambt : tc Take him for all in all, .we shall not look upon his like again.” Yery interesting is the Shakespeare Memorial Building and Theatre , which we advise you to visit first on entering the town. This memorial structure, in a charming situation by the Avon, was the outgrowth of the feeling that the poet should have a suitable monument in his native town. From the Memorial go to Holy Trinity Ch., a cruci- form edifice, consisting of a nave with aisles, a transept and chancel, and a square battle minted tower, in a lovely situation by the Avon, surrounded by a ch.-yard full of tombstones, covered with quaint inscriptions. If the doors are not open, the driver will go for the keys. The ch. contains interesting monuments and some very quaint wood-carvings. The grave of Shake- speare is in the floor of the chancel, covered by a plain flagstone. On the chancel-wall, near the grave, is an or- namental arch with a bust of Shakespeare, in a thought- ful attitude. From this burial-place of genius it is but a short distance to the village of Shottery, where stands, embosomed in foliage, the pretty cottage once the resi- dence of Anne Hathaway. In this humble abode Shakespeare courted his wife. Mrs. Baker, a lineal descendant of the Hathaways, shows the quaint inte- rior ; the oaken seat on which Shakespeare and Anne were wont to sit ; many bits of venerable furniture ; and, up-stairs, a vast bed, on which many a Hathaway has drawn the last breath of life. She also shows a visitors’ book, which contains the names of a great num- ber of eminent Englishmen and Americans (small fee). Beturn to Stratford, and in Henley-St. you will find the Shakespeare House. This is a fine old half-timber building, in which the poet was born (1564), and where 120 STRATFORD-ON-AVON. his family long lived. It consists of 3 apartments on the ground floor, one of which is a museum; of the room in which Shakespeare was born, up-stairs ; and smaller rooms, in one of which is the celebrated Strat- ford portrait of the bard, unlike the commonly received pictures, but believed by many people to be more au- thentic. It was painted over in Puritan times to escape destruction. The room in which the poet was born is in its original state, except that visitors of every nation and every rank have scribbled their names on the walls and windows. The autographs of Byron, Scott, Washington Irving, George IV., the Prince of Orange, the Duke of Wellington, Tom Moore, Charles Dickens, etc., are pointed out. The house is now the property of the nation, having been purchased in 1847 by public subscription. In the museum are early edi- tions of Shakespeare’s plays; the deed made in 1596, showing that John Shakespeare, the father of the poet, resided in this house ; a letter from Mr. Richard Quyney to Shakespeare in 1598, requesting a loan of £30, the only letter known to be in existence, addressed to the poet ; Shakespeare’s signet ring, with the initials W. S. upon it; ail old desk, said to have been his, and re- moved from the Grammar School ; the Shakespeare jug, from which Garrick drank at the Jubilee in 1769 ; and a sword, which once belonged to Shakespeare. Autograph sentiments, written by Washington Irving, by Lucien Bonaparte, and others, are also to be seen. Yisitors register their names. The old visitors’ books are most curious. The first one, beginning in 1812, may be seen at Mrs. James’s, near the Town Hall, in High-St. (Admission to Shakespeare’s birthplace, 6d. House open daily, 9-7.) The pilgrim should now come to New Place, where Shakespeare lived during his prosperous latter years, and where he died (1616). It ENGLAND. 121 is tc-day merely a well-kept lawn. The house is gone. Opposite is the Guild Chapel, founded in 1269 ; chancel reouilt about 1150. In the second story of the adja- cent Guild Hall is the Grammar School, where Shake- speare was one of the pupils. Visit one or both of the celebrated inns, the Red Horse and the Shakespeare ; the former, where you can lunch before returning to Warwick, is a plain, unromantic-looking house, ren- dered interesting by the genius of Washington Irving. There Americans are shown the room where he stayed ; a chair, with his name engraved on a brass plate; the poker with which he poked the fire, etc. Erom Warwick go by rly. (2 M.) to Leamington (Manor House Hotel), a famous watering-place, with sulphuretted saline springs. The most important build- ing is the Royal Pump Room and Baths. You may go directly from Warwick to London (fares, 15s. 6d., 11s. 10d., 8s. 6d. ; time, 3 hrs. ; distance, 97f M). Oxford may be visited on the way; but we recommend you to go to Rugby, Peterborough, Ely, Cambridge, and Northampton; then from Bedford to Oxford and London. You will pass through Rugby (. Boyal George Hotel ; Eagle j Three Horse- shoes), Dickens’s Mug by Junction, famous for its Gram- mar School, founded in 1567. Here the celebrated Dr. Arnold was head master ; and the readers of Tom Brown will perhaps wish to visit the school. Close by is Castle Mount , where a stronghold stood in the time of King Stephen. 1^ M. out is Bilton Hall, where Addison lived. In the garden is Addison’s favorite valk. After leaving Rugby you soon reach Peterborough ( Great Northern Hotel; A?igel ; Bull Hotel), anciently called Medeshamstede, and deriv- ing its origin from a noted Benedictine Abbey, estab- lished in 655, shortly after the Saxons had become 122 PETERBOROUGH. Christianized. The Danes destroyed this abbey (807), and it was restored in 966. Then the town was named after the saint to whom it was dedicated. The abbey, when Henry VIII. dissolved the religious bodies, was one of the most magnificent in the king- dom, and was selected as the see of one of the new bishoprics. The monastic buildings suffered cruelly during the civil wars; and the cathedral itself was sadly defaced. It is said that Henry VIII. spared Peterborough Abbey because Catherine of Aragon lay buried within its enclosure. It is a noble Norman structure, 471 ft. long and 180 ft. wide. Mary, Queen of Scots, once reposed here. The cloisters are in excellent preservation. At the W. end of the cathedral is a fine court, on the S. side of which a range of the old monastic structures is still erect. The W. front (built 1250), 3 vast open arches, has been called “ the grandest portico in Europe.” See the noble old oaken roof, the carved oaken screen, the Lady Chapel, the venerable font. Hawthorne said: “Of all the lovely closes that I ever beheld, that of Peterborough Cathedral is the most delightful, — so quiet, so solemnly and nobly cheerful.” Most of the beautiful glass and all the records in the cathedral were destroyed by Cromwell’s soldiers. The E. end was burned in 1438. In the Ch. of St. John the Bap- tist there are some exquisite figures by Elaxman. Peterborough has a large trade in corn, coal, etc. 2 M. out is Milton Park , the seat of Earl Eitzwilliam. 9 M. distant is Castor , with a perfectly preserved Roman fortress. 21 M. away is Potheringhay , with a splendid ruined ch., and the ruins of the old Plan- tagenet castle in which Mary, Queen of Scots, was put to death. Erom Peterborough it is 30 M. (fares, 6s. 3d., 5s , 2s. 5^d.) to ENGLAND. 123 Ely ( Lamb Inn ; Bell). The Isle of Ely is a tract of high land, amid the fens; and here a monastery was founded by St. Etheldreda (673). A charter was granted by Edgar, and confirmed by Canute, Edward the Confessor, and the Pope. The isle made an excel- lent defence against William the Conqueror. The stalls are remarkable specimens of wood-carving. The cathe- dral was founded about 1082. The Galilee is a beau- tiful porch. The Central Octagon is a superb Gothic dome, with exquisite details. Note the new oak screen, with brass gates ; the rich marble carvings in *1116 Choir ; the Stalls ; Bishop Alcock's Chapel ; Prior Crandene' s Chapel ; and the ancient Bishop's Palace. There is a Park S. of the cathedral. The Lady Chapel was begun in the reign of Edward II., and is con- sidered one of the most perfect buildings of its kind. Ely Cathedral is the longest Gothic cathedral (but one) in Europe (53 7 ft.). The W. tower is 266 ft. high. For technical description see King's Hand-Book of English Cathedrals , which is an excellent companion in these ancient towns. From Ely proceed to Cambridge ( University Arms ; Red Lion ; Bull; Hoop; Castle ; Prince of Wales), 56 M. from London, and on the Cam, a narrow stream that rambles all over the town. Tradition gives 630 as the date of the foundation of the University; but the oldest college, Peterhouse or St. Peter's , can only be referred to 1257. The public buildings are the Shire Hall, Town Hall, University halls and library, and Fitzwilliam Museum. There are 17 colleges, inferior in architectural beauty to those of Oxford, though their associations are quite as interesting. Trinity was founded by Henry VIII. in 1546, and has 3 fine quadrangles ; a splendid hall in the Tudor style ; gardens ; and an important library, with busts of Newton and Bacon. Thorwaldsen’s statue 124 CAMBRIDGE. of Byron, Newton’s telescope, some of John Milton* s MSS., etc. Christ’s College, founded in 1442, was Milton’s college. In the gardens is Milton's Mulberry- Tree . The quadrangle was rebuilt by Inigo Jones. Jesus College (1496) and Chapel are very fine build- ings, on the site of a Benedictine nunnery. Caius (pronounced Kees ) was founded in 1384, and enlarged in 1557 by Dr. Caius, physician to Queen Mary. Re- built lately, it is now one of the best. Corpus Christi (1351) contains curious portraits, especially those of Sir Thomas More, Wolsey, Erasmus, and Eoxe, the author of the Book of Martyrs . King’s College (1441), founded by Henry VI., is the finest building in the University. The chapel is the finest specimen of perpendicular Gothic existing. The roof, unsupported by pillars, contains 12 divisions of exquisite lace- work tracery in stone. The 24 stained- glas’s windows, each 50 ft. high, are beautiful. The music is exceptionally fine. The visitor should go to the Sunday service. St. John’s, founded by Mar- garet, the mother of Henry VII., in 1511, has 4 quad- rangles, a beautiful chapel, and a rare old library. See also Emmanuel , 1584 (whose graduates founded New England) ; St. Catherine's (1475) ; Clare (1326) ; Downing. (1807) ; Pembroke (1347) ; Sidney Sussex (1596) ; Magdalene (1519) ; Trinity Rail (1347). The most striking part, of Cambridge is “the Backs,” where the college gardens slope down to the river, overhung by beautiful trees and crossed by handsome bridges. The site of Cambridge is flat, and forms part of the great Fen Level. » Not far from Cambridge is Newmarket, the fa- mous ;turf resort, which became popular in the days of James I„ who had a hunting-seat here. Near by is Bury St. Edmunds, where an abbey (whose noble ENGLAND. 125 ruins remain) was founded by Canute to commemorate the martyrdom of Edmond. We proceed next to Bedford {Swan Inn ; Clarence Hotel ; Red Lion), once the home of John Bunyan. His chair, in Bunyan Meeting, Mill-St., may still be seen ; and Bedford Jail, where he wrote a portion of The Pilgrim's Progress, still exists. Bunyan’s birthplace was Elstow, 1 M. from Bedford ; and there his cot- tage and forge are shown. Also a noble abbey-ch. See the fine statue of Bunyan, preaching, and hold- ing the Bible. This stands on St. Peters Green. Scenes from The Pilgrim's Progress on pedestal. The Duke of Bedford gave this statue to the town. The philanthropist Howard was born at Cardington, 2 M. distant. The Swan Inn occupies the site of the old castle, destroyed in the reign of Henry III. From Bedford it is but a very short journey to Northampton {Angel Hotel ; George; Plough ), the seat of the boot and shoe manufacture (50,000 inhab.). 20 Parliaments were held here between the the 12th and 14th centuries ; and oil one occasion the University was transferred hither from Oxford. The Castle, with the exception of one tower, was demol- ished in 1662. The old Hospital, founded in honor of Thomas a Becket, is near the S. gate. Interesting sights, — St. Sepulchre Ch., built by the Knights Tem- plar, on the plan of Christ’s Sepulchre at Jerusalem ; the Town Hall ; the Shire Hall . Statue by Chantrey of Spencer Perceval in All Saints' Ch. Queen Eleanor's Cross is 1 M. S. Near this relic Henry YI. was de- feated by Warwick in 1460. Althorp Park , seat of Earl Spencer, with famous library and picture-gallery, 7 M. out. Go by rail from Bedford via Bletchley to Oxford {Randolph Hotel, the most modern, with res- taurant ; Clarendon; Mitre and Roebuck, in the centre 126 OXFORD. of the town, first-class ; King’ s Arms Hotel ; Golden Cross Hotel). The modern town contains the County Jail , near the old tower of Oxford Castle ; the Town Hall ; and the Martyrs’ Memorial , a Gothic monu- ment in St. Giles, near the spot where Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer were burnt at the stake, in 1555-6. Oxford as a seat of learning dates from the time of Alfred the Great, or even eailier. The origi- nal town was demolished by the Danes. The tradi- tions of modern Oxford go back to the Conquest, after which the monasteries founded there obtained great fame for their learning. The town- plan is a cross, 4 broad streets converging from the cardinal points. The central point is called Corfax, a cor- ruption of Quatre voies. The curve of High-St., with its splendid architectural monuments, makes it one of the finest streets in Europe. Public buildings to be visited : The Schools; Ashmo - lean Museum , containing the Arundel Marbles. Bod- lean Library, with its interesting portraits ; Rad - cliff e Observatory; Taylor Institution; University Galleries (open daily, 12-4), containing important drawings by Michael Angelo and Raphael ; Univer- sity Museum , a modern Gothic building in the Park. The laboratories are worthy of notice (open daily, after 2 p. m.). See the beautiful Ch % of St. Mary. University College was founded, according to tradition, in 872, by Alfred the Great , but it dates historically from 1280. Imposing higli-towered gate- ways, new library, etc. Balliol was founded by John Balliol, and Devorgilla, his wife (parents of John Balliol, King of Scotland), in 1268. The build- ing has been restored, and new halls built, Merton (1264), handsome tower and curious old architecture. Two quadrangles, and a large chapel. Exeter (1314), fine modern spire to the chapel (a copy of La ENGLAND. 127 Sainte Chapelle, at Paris. Very large buildings. Noted timber roof in hall. Oriel (1326), where at one time studied Arnold, Keble, Newman, Pusey, and Wilberforce. Queen’s (1431), with hall de- signed by Wren. New College (1380), one of the finest architecturally, with beautiful cloisters ; fine chapel and splendid choir. Lincoln (1427), John Wesley’s college. All Souls’ (1437), fine buildings in two quadrangles. Magnificent chapel, with rere- dos. Spacious hall. Magdalen (pronounce Maud- len ), founded in 1457, with a beautiful campanile, cloisters, gardens, Addison’s walk along the Clier- well. Splendid chapel (famous choral service, 5 p.m. during term). Brasenose (1512), Bishop Heber’s college. Corpus Christi (1516), almost unchanged for 300 years. Christ Church, founded by Car- dinal Wolsey (1525). Fagade 400 ft. long. Attached to this foundation is the Cathedral of Christ Ch. (once the ch. of St. Frideswide’s Priory). The great college tower contains Great Tom , which weighs 17,000 lbs. Fine library and pictures. Immense quadrangle. Through the new buildings pass into the beautiful Christ-Church meadows (50 acres on the rivers Isis and Cherwell). Trinity (1554), beau- tiful gardens and walks, with classical tower and chapel. St. John’s (1555), magnificent late Gothic buildings, and fine gardens. Jesus (1571), fre- quented largely by Welshmen. Fine hall, chapel, and library. Wadham (1613), beautiful gardens. Fine chapel and hall, with timber roof. Pembroke (1 §24), Samuel Johnson’s college. Worcester (1714), beautiful gardens and lake. Keble, built by subscription as a memorial to the Rev. John Keble, in 1870. Oxford to London by Great Western Rly., 63 J M.; by N. Western, 78 M. (11s., 8s. 4d., 5s. 3d.). 128 LONDON. London. Hotels. — Grand Hotel, Trafalgar-Square, new and elegant ; Metropole , Northumberland Avenue ; Conti- nental, Waterloo Place, expensive, but comfortable ; Inns of Court, High Holborn ; Langham, -Portland Place; Buckingham Palace Hotel, Buckingham Palace Gate ; Westminster Palace, Victoria-St. ; Be Keyser’s Royal, corner Blackfriars Bridge; First Avenue, High Holborn; Savoy, on the Thames; Long’s, 16 New Bond St. ; Alexandra , St. George’s Place, Hyde Park Corner; Imperial, Holborn Viaduct; Bath Hotel, Arlington-St. ; Hatchett’s (White Horse Cellar) where coaches start ; Claridge’s, 49-55 Brook-St., Grosvenor-Square, the dearest hotel in London. Each great rly.-sta. has a vast hotel at or near it : The Great Western Hotel, at Paddington stat. ; the Midland Grand, at St. Pancras; the Great Northern Railway Hotel, at King’s Cross; the Euston and Victoria Hotels, at Euston ; the City Terminus Hotel, at Cannon-St. ; th winter national, near London Bridge ; the Charing Cross, central, but not very good, and dear ; the Grosvenor, at Victoria; and the Holborn Viaduct. Morley’s, Trafalgar-Square; Furnival’s Inn, High Holborn ; the Golden Cross, Strand ; the Craven, Craven-St.; the Cathedral, 48 St. Paul’s Churchyard ; and the Castle and Falcon, 5 Al- dersgate-St. , — are good houses. In Albemarle, New Bond, Dover, Arlington, St. James, and Clifford Sts., are many fashionable hotels. In and around Covent Garden and the Strand are many excellent houses. The Tavistock and. New Ilummums, in Covent Gardep, receive gentlemen only. Covent Garden Hotel, corner Southampton-St. ; Ashley’s, 13 Henrietta-St. ; Bedford, 14 Piazzas, Covent Garden; Haxell’s , near Exeter Hall, — may be recommended. At the great houses, single rooms, 4s -15s. per day; attendance, Is. 6d.; breakfast, 3s.-3s. 6d.; table d’hote dinner, without wine, 5s.; ENGLAND. 129 luncheon, d la carte. In some few hotels, dinner is 7s. 6d. In hotels of the second order, bedrooms cost 2s. 6d.-6s. ; attendance, ls.-ls. 6d. ; breakfast, 2s. 6d. ; din- ner, 3s. -4s. Bew T are of ordering dinner a la carteixi the coffee-rooms: the bill becomes enormous. If you stay more than 8-4 days, the servants who wait on you all expect gratuities. Boarding. — There are several excellent private boarding establishments patronized mainly by Americans. Restaurants. — London is poor in these compared with Paris and other Continental cities. We will mention Verrey’s and Blanchard’s, in Regent- St. ; Cafe Royal, Regent-St.; Holborn (with music), 218 High Holborn ; Criterion , Piccadilly ; St. James (with music), Piccadilly. At -these last three dinner costs 3s. 6d. ; attendance, 6d. The Continental, Regent-St. ; Romano’s, 399 Strand; Previtali’s, Arundel-St. — are suitable for families, as are the others above’ men- tioned. For bachelors, we recommend the Blue Post, in Cork-St., behind the Royal Academy of Arts ; the Albion, in Russell-St,, Covent Garden ; Simpson’s, Strand; Bristol, Cork-St.; the Gaiety, Gaiety Theatre, Strand; the Horseshoe, Tottenham Court Road; Gatti’s, Adelaide-St., Strand; Dreher’s (German), 395 Strand; Monico’ s, 15 Tichborne-St. ; the Grosvenor , 136 New Bond-St. ; Crosby Hall, Bishopsgate. Furnished Lodg- ings without board are not expensive. Very good double bedrooms may be had for 15s.-21s. per week; breakfast per person, in the house, 12s. 6d.-15s. per week; single bedrooms, 8s. -14s. per week. A Round-Trip Omnibus Route.— From Trafal- gar-Square take a Blackwall (blue) omnibus via Char- ing Cross, the Strand, Fleet-St., LudgateHill, Cheap- side, the Bank, Cornliill, Aldgate, Whitechapel, Com- mercial Road, to Burdett Road. Get down here, and take tramway (red horse-car) to Victoria Park. W alk down the Victoria Park Road, and at the end of the 130 LONDON. road take the tram (blue) to City Road, past Hackney and Old-Street Road. City Road crosses Old-Street Road. Take tram (blue) to Archway Tavern by City Road, Liverpool Road, and Holloway Road. From Holloway Road a car may be taken via Caledonian Road, to King’s Cross, and from King’s Cross take (green) omnibus to The Castle , Camden Town. Walk to the Britannia , Camden Town, and take a (claret) Camden Town omnibus to Bishop’s Road through Park-St., St. John’s Wood Road, past Lord’s Cricket Ground, Grove Road, Church-St., Paddington Green. From where this omnibus stops another (yellow) may be taken via Edgware Road, Oxford-St., Holborn, theViaduct,Clieapside, KingWilliam-St., and London Bridge. From London Bridge take a (green) omnibus to the Elephant and Castle. From this point take a tram to Westminster, and then (yellow) omnibus to Trafalgar- Square. The" Underground Rly. (Metropolitan) will be found very convenient. The most central stats, are : Charing Cross, Temple, Blackfriars, Mansion House, Westminster, St. James Park, Victoria, Sloane- Square, S. Kensington, Gloucester Road. These roads allow you to effect a great saving of time. Tramways are now numerous (fares, 2d. -3d.). Trains run every 5 min. all day between Charing Cross and Cannon - St., calling at Waterloo Junction. This is a con- venient way of getting from the centre of the town into the E. district. Steamboats, see p. 150. Cab-fares . — Within a 4-M. radius, of which Charing Cross is the centre, the fares are regulated thus : For any distance under 2 M. ,1s. ; for every additional M. or part thereof, 6d. Within the central part of London, the ordinary cab-course is rarely more than Is. ; but the cabman generally demands Is. 6d. from the stranger. Outside the 4-M. circle, a special agree- ment must be made. 4-wheeled cabs, locally called lington House as Centre. ENGLAND. 131 growlers , inside the radius, for 1 lir. or less, 2s. ; for every additional 15 min., 6d. Baggage, 2d. per pk.; hansoms, per h., 2s. 6d. Theatres, etc. — Most of them are open in summer. The opera-houses, Covent Garden , and Her Majesty’s Theatre , in the Haymarket, are usually open April- Aug. Prices, 2s. 6.-£l Is. for orchestra stalls. Gen- teel comedy, at the Haymarket, in the Haymarket ; the Prince of Wales’s, in Tottenham-St. ; the Princess’s in Oxford-St. ; the/$£. James's, in King-St.; th e Vaude- ville, in the Strand; the Criterion, in Piccadilly; and the Court , in Sloan e-Square. For melodrama and sensational pieces, go to Drury Lane, in Catherine- St., the Adelphi, in the Strand, and the Princess’s. For opera bouffe, ballet, and spectacle, visit the Al- hambra, in Leicester-Square ; the Gaiety, in *the Strand; the Globe, in Newcastle -Street., Strand; the Olympic, in Drury Lane; the Opera Comique, in the Strand; the Royalty, in Dean-St., Soho ; and the Strand Theatre. The Lyceum, on Wellington-St., is the leading theatre, and there Shakespearian tragedy and melodramas are produced. Mr. Irving and Miss Ellen Terry play here. The E. End theatres, of which there are several, are worth a visit, to get an idea of how the lower classes take their amusement. Music-halls abound. The best are: The Oxford, in Oxford-St.; the Canterbury, in Westminster Bridge Road, and the Pavilion, in Piccadilly Circus. The Aquarium, at Westminster, gives varied entertain- ments. Visitors in winter will find the best panto- mimes at Drury Lane and Covent Garden. Sanger’s Theatre (formerly Ashley’s), in Westminster Bridge Road, is worth visiting. It has a stage for dramatic performances and a riding track. Promenade con- certs are held in Aug. and Sept., at Covent Garden ; and good concerts, with ballad singing, are plenty during the season at St, James’s Hall and the Royal 1 32 LONDON. - ST. PAUL’S CATHEDRAL, Albert Hall. Drury Lane Theatre has been the scene of many histrionic triumphs, and among, its actors and actresses were Nell Gwynne, Mrs. Siddons^ John Kendall, Edmund Kean, Garrick, and Macready. For announcement of operas and plays, see the Times theatrical column (daily). Oratorios at Exeter Hall. In the Hanover- Square Rooms, the concerts of the Philharmonic Society and the Royal Academy of Music take place. The new Philharmonic and the Musical Society of London have their concerts in St. James’s Hall, Piccadilly. In Piccadilly is the Egyp- tian Hall, where Artemus Ward made his appearance. Moore and Burgess's Minstrels are in St. James’s Hall. Mme. Tussaud’s Waxworks are in the Marylebone Road (daily, 11-6, Is.), with 200 figures of celebrities. Lfyn dun, the “hill fortress by the pool,” was an ancient British city, on Ludgate or Tower Hill, en- walled by King Lud, and made into the Roman sta- tion Londinium, a. d. 48. Tacitus reported it “illus- trious for its extensive commerce,” and BedC, 400 years later, called it “an emporium of many nations.” The population in the ‘ ‘ Metropolitan District ” of London is over 4,500,000, exceeding that of all Scot- land, or Denmark, or Switzerland. The city lies be- tween Temple Bar (W.) and Aldgate (E.), the Thames (S.) and Smithfield and Finsbury Circus (N.), and has about 60,000 inhab., and the great offices, warehouses, etc. Westminster lies between the city and Chelsea, Oxford- St. and the Thames, and has the chief palaces and modern streets. There are also eight boroughs, and scores of annexed villages, in the “ Metropolitan District,” which covers 690 square M., having 6,600 M. of streets, 1,000,000 gas lamps, 550,000 buildings, 1,100 churches, and 500 hotels. 20,000 vessels enter the port yearly, and there are $500,000,000 of exports. St. Paul’s Cathedral was built by Wren in 1675- 1710, on a site before occupied by a temple of Diana, a Roman British cli., and King Ethelbert’s cli. , built ENGLAND. 133 in 610 and destroyed in 1666. Here King John yielded to the Pope (in 1213) ; Wyckliffe was cited for heresy (1337) ; and Tyndale’s New Testament was burned (1537). St. Paul’s is a Latin Cross, with nave 500 X 118 ft. ; transepts, 250 ft. long; inner dome, 225 ft. high ; and height to top of cross, 404 ft. St. Peter’s and Milan and Seville Cathedrals are larger. It is open from 10 a. m. to dark. Services at 8 and 10 a. m., and 4 and 8 p. m. Fee at Crypt, 6d.; Whisper- ing and Stone Galleries, 6d.; Library, 6d. ; Ball, Is. 6d. The W. front is flanked by high campaniles. The interior is vast, but bare. See organ and wood carvings in the choir, and monuments of Howard, the philanthropist ; Donne, the poet-dean ; Dean Milman ; Bishop Heber ; Dr. Johnson ; Hallam, the historian ; Lord Nelson ; Gen. Pakenham ; Sir John Moore ; Lord Rodney, etc. In the crypt are the porphyry and marble sarcophagi of Wellington, Nel- son, and Collingwood ; Wellington’s hearse ; and the tombs of the artists Reynolds, West, Lawrence, Tur- ner, Fuseli, and Barry. From the S. aisle, ascend to Library (10,000 vols.), Whispering Gallery , Stone Gallery , and Ball. Hare speaks of St. Paul’s as “sublimely grandiose, with a sooty dignity all its own and Hawthorne found it “ unspeakably grand and noble It would not be nearly so grand without this drapery of black.” Paternoster Row, famous for books, is N. of the Cathedral ; and S. are the Deanery , Choristers ’ School , and Herald’s College. Down the Row is Warwick Lane r once the haunt of Lord Warwick, the king-maker. The General Post-Office and Telegraph Office are immense buildings near by, nearly hiding St. Vedast’s Ch., one of Wren’s masterpieces. The wealthy Christ’s Hospital, founded by Edward VI., on the site of a Greyfriars’ convent, has 1,200 blue- robed pupils; Richardson, Coleridge, Lamb, and Leigh Hunt were educated here, Newgate, a famous prison. 134 NEWGATE. — GUILDHALL. where Jack Sheppard, Titus Oates, ¥m, Penn, and Daniel Defoe were confined, is in the Old Bailey, reached from Ludgate Hill. NT. of Christ’s is St. Bartholomew's Hospital , a great quadrangle founded as a priory in 1102, and converted into a hospital by Henry VIII. In the Great Hall are paintings by Hogarth, Lawrence, Reynolds, etc. The grand Norman Ch. dates from 1102, and has rare monuments. The vast adjacent Smith- field Market (3 1-2 acres under roof) occupies the ground once used for the revels, miracle-plays, and tournaments of Bartholomew Fair, and later for the martyrdoms under Bloody Mary and Elizabeth. Here, also, Wat Tyler and Sir Wm. Wallace were put to death. Newgate-St. leads to the noble Hol- born Viaduct, spanning a deep valley, at one end of which is St. Sepulchre's Ch. (John Rogers was its rector), containing the tomb of Captain John Smith. Near Smithfield is the picturesque Char- terhouse, a rich school and asylum on the site of a Carthusian convent (1371). Among the pupils here were Steele, Addison, Blackstone, Wesley, Grote, Lovelace, Barrow, Eastlake, John Leech, Thirl wall, Thackeray, and Havelock. See the Elizabethan Great Chamber ; cloisters, chapel, and pictures in the Master's Lodge ; also, in adjacent Bunhill Fields , tombs of Bunyan, Defoe, and Dr. Watts ; and, in St. John’s Lane, Clerkenwell, the rare old St. John's Gate, built in 1504. The Guildhall, originally built 1411-31, but almost entirely de- stroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, has the muni- cipal offices, a Gdthic Library, a museum (Ro- man antiques, etc.), a beautiful crypt, and fine portraits. The Great Hall , 153 x SO feet, has a noble timber roof, stained windows, and the ENGLAND. 135 wooden giants, Gog and Magog. Gresham Col- lege (1579) and Goldsmiths' Hall are close by. Cheapside is a busy street, with handsome shops, from which run Bread- St., where Milton was born, and Milk-St., where Sir Thomas More was born and on which stood the Mermaid Inn, beloved by Shakes- peare, Ben Jonson, Beaumont and Fletcher, Donne, etc. Boio Ch., built by Wren, rises over a Norman crypt, and is crowned by a great dragon, on a tower 235 ft. high. Whoever is born within sound of its bells is a “ cockney.” Mercers’ Hall, with its rich pil- lared court, is on the site of Thomas & Becket’s birthplace (1119). The Grocers’ and Armorers’ (fine hall and rich armor) Halls are farther on. The Man- sion House (1739-1753), and famous for the Egyp- tian Hall, is the palace of the Lord Mayor. The costly new Queen Yictoria-St. leads thence, by Apothecaries’ Hall and The Times Office, to Black- friars Bridge (^M.). Opposite the Mansion House is the low, massive, and broad-based Bank of Eng- land, which keeps $75-100,000,000 in coin in its vaults. The splendid Royal Exchange, with its rich carvings, Corinthian colonnades, and campanile, and the Stock Exchange , are near by. Statues of Wellington and Peabody, near Exchange ; also Crosby Hall, built in 1466 ; and St. Helen’s Ch. , of the 12th century. In Cornliill, Gray, the poet, w T as born. St. Michael’s Ch. was built by Wren, and St. Catherine Cree by Inigo Jones. Lombard-St. is the Wall-St. of London ; Mincing Lane, the headquar- ters of colonial trade ; Mark Lane , the grain mar- ket. In St. dare’s Ch. is the tomb of Pepys ; and in Trinity Ch. (formerly a Minorite nunnery) is the Duke of Suffolk’s head. St. Swithin’s Ch. has the famous London stone, a Homan milliarium, built into its wall. The venerable St. Saviour’s Ch. is over London Bridge, and has a beautiful Lady Chapel 136 THE TOWER. and Choir, and tombs of Massinger, Fletcher, Gow- er, and Shakespeare’s brother. Beyond is the an- cient Guy’s Hospital, in whose ch. Astley Cooper is buried. King- William St. runs from the Bank, by St. Mary Woolnoth's Ch. and the site of Fal- staft’s Boar's Head Tavern , to London Bridge, 928 ft. long, built in 1825-31, at a cost of $10,- 000,000, on 5 granite arches. 20,000 carriages and 100,000 pedestrians cross it daily. The Romans and the Saxons had bridges here. The Monu- ment, 202 ft. high, built by Wren in 1671-77 to commemorate the Great Fire of 1666 (which de- stroyed $357,000,000 of property) is close by. Fine view from its top (fee, 3d.). Thafnes-St. was Chau- cer’s home, 1379-85. St. Magnus the Martyr , one of Wren’s Chs., has Miles Coverdale’s tomb. Farther E. is Billingsgate , the famous fish-market. The Custom House is 490 ft. long, on a quay be- side the Thames. The Tower is “ historically the most interest- ing spot in England” (open daily, 10-4, 6d.; Mon. and Sat., free). A stone bridge leads to the Outer Bail ; and the Bell Tower and Traitors’ Gate are passed on the way to the Inner Bail, in which rises the famous White Tower, built by William the Conqueror, on the site of a Roman fort. It is 96 X 116 ft. in area, and 95 ft. high, with turreted walls 12 ft. thick. Here Richard II . abdicated his throne (1399), and James I. of Scotland was im- mured. The beautiful Herman Chapel of St. John is here ; also the Council Chamber and Banqueting Hall. Among the prisoners of the Tower have been King John of France, King David Bruce of Scot- land, the Dukes of Orleans and Marlborough, Wil- liam Wallace, Archbishop Cranmer, Lord Straf- ford, and William Lord Russell. Outside is a col- ENGLAND. 137 lection of ancient cannon ; and the Horse Armoury , full of trophies, ancient armor of all nations, and 22 eques- trian figures in full English, Burgundian, and German armor, of dates from 1272 to 1688, and once worn by princes and nobles. Upstairs are trophies from Quebec, Malta, India, New Zealand, etc. Queen Elizabeth's Armoury contains weapons of the Elizabethan age, the block on which Lord Lovat was decapitated, and the axe which struck off the Earl of Essex’s head. Ad- jacent is the 10 X 8 cell in which Sir Walter Baleigh was confined, 1603-16. The Bloody Tower was that in which the sons of Edward 1Y. were murdered ; Lord Dudley was imprisoned in the Beauchamp Tower ; Prin- cess Elizabeth, in the Bell Tower ; Lady Jane Grey, in the Brick Tower. The Duke of Clarence was put to death in the Bowyer Tower ; and Henry YI. in Wakefield Tower. In the Jewel House are the Crown Jewels , valued at $15,000,000: St. Edward’s crown; Yictoria’s crown, with 2,783 diamonds, and a wonderful sapphire and ruby (it cost $560,000) ; several other crowns ; the royal sceptre, and other sceptres and orbs ; the Koh-i- Noor diamond; etc. In the cemetery attached to the ancient chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula are the remains of Anne Boleyn, Sir Thomas More, two Earls of Essex, Lord Somerset, Lady Jane Grey, the Dukes of North- umberland and Monmouth, and other noble victims. On Tower Hill stand Trinity House, whose brethren care for the British lighthouses and buoys, and the Royal Mint. William Penn was born on Tower Hill ; and the poet Otway died there. St. Katherine s and London Docks are E. of the Tower, with vast crowded warehouses. London Docks cover 120 acres, and cost $20,000,000. Earther down are other vast docks, the largest in the world. N. W. of the Tower are Bethnal Green Museum and Victoria Park . In the Swedish Ch. at Shadwell , Swedenborg is buried. 138 FLEET-STREET. — THE TEMPLE. Blackfriars Bridge, 1,272 ft. long, on granite piers, is named from a monastery formerly hard by, founded in 1276, and where Cardinal Wolsey divorced Katherine of Aragon from Henry VIII. Shakespeare and Ben Jonson formerly lived at Blackfriars. The Victoria Embankment runs along the N. bank of the Thames, from Blackfriars to Westminster Bridge, 1^ M., occu- pied by a road and walks 100 ft. wide. This work was done, 1864-70, at a cost of $10,000,000. It is adorned with trees and gardens, and statues of Mill, Outram, and Brunei. Here also stands Cleopatra’s Needle , the great Egyptian obelisk. See also the ancient Water- gate of York House, built by Inigo Jones. On the site of Durham House is the Adelphi Terrace , where King Kamehameha II. and David Garrick died. Fleet-St. runs from near St. Paul’s to the Strand, passing Congregational Memorial Hall, on the site of Fleet Prison , made famous by Dickens ; the office of Punch ; St. Bride’s Ch ., built by Wren, near site of Bridewell Prison, with tomb of Richardson the nov- elist; Bolt Court , where Dr. Johnson lived (1776- 84) and died, and Cobbett labored; Cheshire Cheese Inn , frequented by Johnson, Boswell, and Goldsmith; Whitefriars, on the site of an ancient Carmelite monas- tery; Alsatia (down Bouverie-St.), the home of rogues, described in Scott’s Fortunes of Nigel ; the site of Izaak Walton’s hosiery-shop, 1624-43 ; the Gothic Ch. of St. Bunstan in the West ; Mitre Court , and its famous- old inn; and the New Record Office (open 10-4), a stately Tudor building, containing the Domesday Book. The Temple was founded by the Knights Templar in 1184, and reverted to the Crown on their dissolution, in 1313* In 1346 it was leased to the law schools, which have ever since occupied it. The buildings extend from Fleet-St. to the famous Temple Gardens , where the ENGLAND. 13& War of the Roses broke out. The Middle Temple has a splendid Elizabethan Gothic hall (built 1572), with dark oaken ceiling and princely portraits. Dr. John- son, Chaucer, Blackstone, Lamb, and Oliver Goldsmith lived in the Middle Temple ; and the latter is buried in» the yard of the very beautiful Temple Ch. (open 10-12, 1-4, daily; 6d.), built in 1185-1240, which has quaint old Templars’ monuments, rich stained windows, and polished pillars of Purbeck marble. Nearly opposite,, across Eleet-St., are the vast and superb new Law Courts, in Gothic architecture, which have cost over $5,000,000. Farther N. is the famous Lincoln’s Inn, the home of lawyers, with a great library, a quaint chapel built by Inigo Jones, and a handsome Tudor dining-hall. Pitt, More, and Brougham long lived here. In Lincoln’s Inn Fields is the lioyal College of Sur- geons, with a vast museum ; near by is the Soane Museum, with rare MSS. and early books, antique gems, mediaeval and Renaissance curiosities, and paintings by Hogarth, Turner, Eastlake, Reynolds. Grafs Inn, on the N. side of Holborn, has been a law school since 1871. Bacon was a member here. Reyond the monument on the site of Temple Bar (built in 1670 ; taken down 1878), Fleet-St. is con- tinued as the Strand, connecting the city and the W. End. St. Clement Danes Ch. stands over the tombs of Harold Harefoot and other Danish war- riors. Dr. Johnson used to worship here ; Joe Miller and the poet Otway are buried in the ch.- yard. Hard by is Clement's Inn , sacred to law- yers, and often mentioned by Shakespeare. Essex,. Arundel, Norfolk, and Surrey-Sts., named from the palaces of the great nobles formerly there- abouts; diverge to the Embankment. In the latter lived Congreve and Sa'e ; Peter the Great lived in 140 WATERLOO BRIDGE. — COVENT GARDEN, Buckingham-St. Thomas a Becket was priest of the Ch. of St. Mary le Strand. Voltaire lived in Maiden Lane. Somerset House is a vast Government build- ing, on the site of the Lord Protector’s Palace, with a splendid front towards the Thames. Here may be seen (10-3 daily) the wills of Holbein, Shakespeare, Van Dyck, Newton, Dr. Johnson, and Napoleon I. Waterloo Bridge was built at a cost of §5,000,000. Exeter Halt stands in this region of theatres, and is a famous centre of religious movements. The Chapel Royal , Savoy , a Gothic ch., with ancient tombs, is in Savoy-St. It was built in 1505, on the site of the Savoy Palace, given by Henry III. to Peter of Savoy ; owned by John of Gaunt; destroyed by Wat Tyler’s mob ; and replaced by Henry VII. with a hospital. In the Palace, Chaucer wrote several poems ; and there King John of Prance died. To the N. is Covent Garden, the chief fruit, flower, and vegetable market of London (visit before 7 a.m., Tues., Thurs., or Sat.), on site of convent gardens granted to the Dukes of Bedford in 1551, and still held by them. Here lived Sir Kenelm Digby, Bishop Berkeley, Lord Crewe, Sir Godfrey Kneller, etc. ; and the poet Marvell and the painter Turner dwelt in Maiden Lane. Inigo Jones built St. Paul's Cli ., in whose yard Samuel Butler (“ Hudibras ”), Sir Peter Lely, “ Peter Pindar,” the dramatist Wycherley, and the famous wood-carver Grin- ling Gibbons, are buried. The Royal Italian Opera-House is in Covent Garden; and near it is the Floral Hall. At Charing Cross is a modern copy of a cross erected near its site by Edward I., in 1201. There is an ancient equestrian statue of Charles I. at Charing Cross. “The full tide of existence is at Charing Cross,” said Dr. Johnson. Harry Vane, Barrow, and Johnson lived hereabouts. ENGLAND. 141 The splendid Trafalgar Square contains a col- umn 177 ft. high, with a colossal statue of Nelson, and colossal lions designed by Landseer. Else- where are statues ofVHavelock, George IV., and Sir Charles Napier. On one side stood Northumber- land House , the palace of the Percies, bought by the Board of Works for $2,500,000, and demolished in 1874. On part of its site stands the Grand Ho- tel. The Ch. of St. Martin in the Fields has a fine Grecian front ; and in its yard lie Roubiliac the sculp- tor, Earquhar the dramatist, and Nell G Wynne. The magnificent National Gallery (free, open Mon., lues., Wed., and Sat., 10 a.m., till dark ; Thurs. and Fri. afternoons, 6d.), N. of the Square, has a classic fapade, 460 ft. long. It contains over 1,000 pictures, and is visited by nearly 1,000,000 persons yearly. Each picture has its title and artist inscribed upon it. Fine busts and statues in the Hall. Many of the most famous pictures of the world, familiar by countless engravings, are in this great collection. It is profitable to buy the catalogues (2s) . Whitehall leads S. to Whitehall Palace, where Henry VIII. met Anne Boleyn, and where he died; where- Holbein dwelt ; whence Elizabeth was removed to prison, and Charles I. to execution ; where Milton and Cromwell dwelt, and the latter died ; where Charles II. held court. The site was occupied by the palace of Hubert de Burgh (13th century), a Dominican con- vent, and the palace of Cardinal Wolsey. The great Palladian Banqueting Hall only remains, designed by Inigo Jones, painted by Rubens, and now used as a royal chapel (service on Sun. at 11 and 3). In a house near by, Sir Robert Peel died. In this vicinity is Scotland Yard, famous in police annals; once the property of the Scottish kings, and later the home oi Wren, Milton, Inigo Jones. Also Montague House, 142 THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. the palace of the Duke of Buccleuch. In Whitehall Yard is the United Service Museum , crowded with tro- phies of the wars of Britain on all seas and shores, relics of Cromwell, Nelson, Wolfe, Drake, Franklin, Wellington, Napoleon, etc. The Horse-Guards, headquarters of the army, is opposite Whitehall. See mounted Life-Guards sentries, 10-4 daily. The Treas- ury comes next S. The new Public Offices, built in 186S-73 by Sir G. G. Scott (cost, $2,500,000), a splendid pile of Italian buildings, contain the Home, Foreign, Colonial, and India Offices. The Houses of Parliament form an immense Tudor Gothic pile, of Yorkshire magnesian limestone (already crumbling), covering 8 acres, with 11 courts and 1,100 rooms, and erected, 1840-59, at a cost of $15,000,000 (open Sat., 10-4). The fafade along the Thames (940 ft. long) is adorned with statues and shields of all the sovereigns of England. The splendid Victoria Tower is 340 ft. high and 75 ft. square; the Middle Tower is 300 ft. high ; and the Clock Tower , 318 ft. high, has a huge clock (dials 23 ft. across), and Big Ben , a bell weighing 13 tons. The oldest part is Westminster Hall, built by William Rufus in 1097, and covered with the present wonderful roof of Irish oak by Richard II. a splendid hall, 270 ft. long and 92 ft. high, formerly the seat of England’s most august tri- bunals. Here Wallace, Strafford, Guy Fawkes, More, Wyatt, Lords Essex, Cobham, and Arundel, the Dukes of Somerset, Buckingham, and Norfolk, the Scottish nobles who favored the Stuarts, and King Charles I. were condemned to death. Here Warren Hastings was tried, and also the Seven Bishops. Here Edward III. received the captive kings, David of Scotland and John of France. Here Cromwell was installed Lord Protector. Here the coronation-banquets have been ENGLAND. 143 held for 800 years. A stairway descends to the crypt or Ch. of St. Mary Undercroft , built by King Stephen, and lately made resplendent as a chapel. St. Stephen's Cloisters, E. of the hall, were built by Henry VIII. Ascending from the hall, enter St. Stephen's Rail, with statues of 12 English statesmen and 12 ancient mon- arclis ; and the Central Hall, a lofty octagon, with statues. The corridors have large frescos of scenes from English history. The House of Commons, 62 X 45 ft., is panelled with oak, and has 12 stained win- dows. The House of Peers, 97 X 45 ft., is a superb Gothic room, with 12 stained windows, statues of the Magna-Charta barons, 6 splendid historical frescos, the Lord Chancellor’s woolsack and the thrones of the Queen and the Prince of Wales. See the Prince’s Chamber, Upper Waiting-Hall, Peers’ Robing-Room, superb Victoria Gallery, and Queen’s Robing-Room (richly frescoed). In Old Palace Yard is a statue of Richard Cceur de Lion. Near by Chaucer and Ben Jonson died. The old Parliament House, erected on the site of the palace of the Anglo-Saxon and Plantagenet kings, and burned in 1834, contained the Star Chamber, and was the birthplace of Edward I. , and the scene of the death of Edward the Confessor. Here resounded the eloquence of Pitt, Eox, Chatham, Burke, Canning, and Grattan. Westminster Bridge, built 1856-62, at a cost of $1,250,000, commands a fine view of Parliament House. St. Margaret’s Ch. replaced a cli. built in 1064 by Edward the Confessor, and has a magnificent old E. 'window (The Crucifixion) and many quaint tombs, in- cluding those of poet-laureate Skelton, Milton’s wife, Cromwell’s mother, Wm. Caxton, Lady Dudley, Har- rington (author qf Oceana ), Sir Win Waller, and Sir 144 WESTMINSTER ABBEY. Walter Raleigh (who is buried under the altar) Manyfioe memorials stand in this vicinity; also Mil- ton’s house, latterly occupied by Hazlitt, and fre- quented by Lamb and Haydon; Jeremy Bent ham’s house; the quaint old Gray Coat School; and the pretty houses of Queen Anne's Gate. Westminster Abbey was founded (on the site of a temple to Apollo) by the Anglo-Saxon King Sebert in 616, for Benedictines ; destroyed by Danes ; and re- built by Edgar (985), Edward the Confessor (1049), Henry III., and Edward I. Henry VIII. drove out the monks, Queen Mary restored them, and Eliza- beth scattered them forever. All the sovereigns of England since Harold have been crowned here. It is 513 X 75 ft. in area, and 102 ft. high, with W. towers 225 ft. high. It is a splendid Eariy-English building, immense, harmonious, solemn, and richly colored. (Enter near St. Margaret’s; open, except Sun., 9 a.m. till dark. Services at 7-45, 11, and 3 daily. Entrance to chapels, 6d.; Mon., free.) It is world-renowned as England’s Temple of Fame, crowded with monuments of kings, heroes, and scholars. In the N. Transept are the monuments of Admirals Warren, Vernon, Wager, Lord Chatham, Canning, Castlereagh, Peel, Mansfield, two Dukes of Newcastle, Warren Hastings, Cobden, Buller, and many famous lords. In the abbey are monuments to Wilberforce, Stamford Bahies, Fowell Buxton, Isaac Newton, Charles Lyell, Fox, Holland, Pitt, Wordsworth, Keble, Congreve, Buckland, Outram, Major Andre, Dr. Watts, John Wesley, Gen. Paoli, Kneller, Livingstone, Stephenson, etc. The Poets’ Corner contains inscriptions to Goldsmith, Gay, Handel, Thomson, Southey, Shakespeare, Camp- bell, Sheridan, Camden, Dickens, Grote, Macaulay, Thirlwall, Addison, Thackeray, Casaubon, Barrow, ENGLAND. 14& Garrick, Prior, Gray, Milton, Spenser, Butler, Jonson,. Drayton, Chaucer, Cowley, Dry den, South. — See chap- els of St. Benedict , St. Edmond (.Lord Lytton’s tomb), St. Nicholas. The Chapel of Henry VII., built 1502-20,. the loveliest in England, has nave, aisles, and 5 chapels, with 1,000 statues, exquisite carved-oak choir-stalls oil each side (with the swords and banners of the Knights of the Bath), and a magnificent stone roof of fanwork tracery. See tombs of Henry YII., James L, Mary Queen of Scots, Charles II., William and Mary, George of Denmark, Edward VI., Queen Anne, George II., the Duke of Montpensier, Dean Stanley, Queen Eliza- beth, Edward V., etc. The Chapel of St. Edward the Confessor has tombs of Henry V., Katherine of Valois, Henry III., Queen Eleanor, Bichard II., Philippa of Hainault, Edward the Confessor, and Edward I. ; also, the Scottish and English Coronation Chairs, and the sword and shield of Edward III. The Chapels of St . John , St. Erasmus , and the Abbot Islip contain ancient tombs, near which are those of Aymer de Valence and Gen. Wolfe. The Chapels of Sts. John , Andrew , and Michael have monuments to Humphry Davy, Dr. Young, Mrs. Siddons, etc. The Chapter -House, built 1250, and occupied by the House of Commons, 1282- 1517, adjoins the Poets’ Corner, and is near the Chapel of the Pyx, St. Blaise s Chapel, and the stairs to the Triforium . Near by are the beautiful Cloisters. The world-renowned Jerusalem Chamber was built 1376-86. Here Henry IV. died; and here the recent revision of the Bible was carried out. Westminster School,, founded by Queen Elizabeth (1560), is entered near the column to the W. Wren, Gibbon, Cowley, Cowper, Churchill, Jonson, Dryden, Prior, Locke, Southey,. Hakluyt, and Warren Hastings were educated here. 146 ENGLAND. St. Thomas's Hospital is a line of buildings i M. long (cost $2,500,000), opposite Parliament House. Beyond, and also on the Thames, is Lam- beth Palace, for 700 years the London house of the Archbishops of Canterbury, very beautiful and interesting. Enter by Cardinal Moreton’s lofty em- battled gateway. The Hall has a fine timber-roof, .and contains a library of 30,000 vols. (open daily, 10-3). The Guard Chamber has portraits of many archbishops. The Chapel , in which these prelates are consecrated, dates from 1244-70. In the Lol- lards' Tower Lollards were imprisoned and tor- tured. In the inner court is the new Tudor palace -of the archbishops. The gardens of Lambeth are beautiful. 4 M. E. is Bethlehem Hospital for the In- sane ( Bedlam ) ; and a little beyond are St. George's Cathedral (Boman) and Spurgeon's Tabernacle. Pall Mall is a splendid st., nearly 4 M. long, run- ning W. from Trafalgar-Square, and lined with club houses, which are also found in St. James- St. Among these are the University, United Service, Athenaeum, Travellers 1 , Reform, Carlton, Army and T7avy, Guards, and Marlborough. Pall Mall cross- es Waterloo Place , in which are the Crimean, Frank- lin, Burgoyne, and Colin-Campbell monuments, and the York column (124 ft. high; 6 d. for ascent). In Pall Mall is Marlborough House , built by Wren, and the residence of the Prince of Wales; near by St. James' s-Sq., with palaces and club-houses. St. James’s Palace is a brick building, designed by Holbein and built by Henry VIII., the home of En- gland’s kings from 1691 to 1809. Victoria was married in its chapel, and levees are held in its state-chambers. Guard-mounting and fine military music daily, at 11.45. Clarence House is the home of the Duke of Edinburgh. Stafford House ST. JAMES’S PARK. 147 (Duke of Sutherland) contains hundreds of paint- ings. Bridgewater House (Lord Ellesmere) has art-collections, including several Raphaels. St. James’s Park, S. of the Palace, was created by Henry VIII. and Charles II. , and has a lake in its centre, the Birdcage Walk and Wellington Bar- racks on the S. , the Mall on the N. , and on the W., near the Turkish cannon and Marshal Soult’s mortar, the Foot Guards parade at 10 a. m. daily. At the W. end is Buckingham Palace, bought in 1761 by George III. of the Duke of Buck- ingham, now the town-residence of the Queen. It is a quadrangle, with Throne Room, Grand Saloon, and other halls, and a Picture Gallery, containing hundreds of old paintings. In the rear are large gardens. Begent-St., containing the finest shops in Lon- don, and many hotels and clubs, is 1 M. long, and leads from Pall Mall to Oxford-St. Piccadilly, a Paris-like street, runs from llay- market to Hyde Park (1 M)., by the interesting Geological Museum (open daily, 10-5) ; St. James's CJi., built by Wren; the houses of the Royal, Geo- logical, Antiquarian, Astronomical, and Chemical Societies; the Royal Academy of Arts (many rare paintings); London University, with statues; Dev- onshire House , famous in art; and other palaces of the nobility. Green Park bounds one side of Piccadilly. In The Albany dwelt Byron, Bulwer, Monk Lewis, and Macaulay. Oxford-St. 14 M. from Holborn to Hyde Park, passes Bloomsbury, Russell, Cavendish, Hanover and Bedford Sqs. , with their displays of statuary, and crosses Regent-St. and New Bond-St., famous for fine shops. The British Museum (open daily, free, from 10 a. m. till dusk) is near New Oxford- 148 ENGLAND. St., and contains one of the grandest collections in the world. Here are the Elgin Marbles, from the Athenian Parthenon; hundreds of Greek and Roman sculptures, and statuary; reliefs from Baby- lon, Nineveh, and Nimroud; 6 rooms full of Egyp- tian antiquities, MSS., jewels, statues, etc. ; hun- dreds of Greek, Etruscan, and Roman bronzes; antiquities of the flint, Celtic, Roman, Saxon, and mediaeval ages in England; and vast collections in zoology. The Reading Room is a circular hall in the centre of the quadrangle, with a dome of glass and iron; the Library contains 1,000,000 books. A little way N. E. is the Foundling Hospital, with pictures by Reynolds, Hogarth, etc. Services in chapel, at 11 and 3 on Sundays. Begent’s Park (472 acres), a bit of open coun- try in a densely populated region, is \\ M, N. AY. of Trafalgar Sq. , and contains the famous Zoologi- cal Gardens , with numbers of birds and beasts, (open daily, 9 a. m. till dark, Is.; Mon., 6d. Best time to visit, 3-4). Here are the Botanical Gar- dens. Primrose Hill lies N. ; and Lord's Cricket Ground is AY. 2-3 M. AA r . is Kensal-Green Cemetery , where are buried Thackeray, Leigh Hunt, Sidney Smith, Allan Cunningham, Buckle, Eastlake, Mul- ready, Mathews the actor, Leech the cartoonist, Gibson the sculptor, Cardinal AYiseman, etc. Hyde Park (390 acres) was laid out by Henry VIII. At the N. E. gate is the Marble Arch; at the S.E., Hyde Park Corner , is another portal, opposite which stands a tall arch, which formerly bore a statue of AA r ellington. Rotten Row runs thence to Kensington Gate (14 M.), and is a riding-course. The Drive , alongside, is filled with equipages. The Serpentine is an artificial pond, with pleasure- boats. Remarkable lawns and trees are seen on all ENGLAND. 149 sides. Kensington Gardens adjoin Hyde Park on the W., and lead to Kensington Palace, a grim brick structure, built by William III., and the birth- place of Queen Victoria. William and Mary, Queen Anne and her consort, and George II. died here. Farther W. is Holland House , a Tudor palace built in 1607, and frequented by Cromwell and Fairfax, Wm. Penn, Addison, William and Mary, Moore, Rogers, and Macaulay. S. of the Gardens stands the Albert Memo- rial, a superb Gothic monument, 175 ft. high, covered with statues, and composed of a Gothic canopy, under which is a colossal statue of Albert. Across the road is the vast oval amphitheatre of the Royal Albert Hall (which cost $1,000,000), overarched with glass, hold- ing 8,000 people, and provided with an organ of 8,000 pipes. The Natural History Museum faces Crom- well-Road. The South Kensington Museum (free, Mon., Tues., and Sat., 10-10; 6d., Wed., Thurs., Fri., 10 a.m. till dark ; restaurant and lavatories in building) is one of the richest in the world (| hr. from Charing Cross by rly.). It was founded in 1857, and has re- ceived many generous bequests, besides $5,000,000 from Government. The first court is crowded with architectural rarities, original or in casts. The S. Court is surrounded with mosaic portraits of the 83 most famous artists, and Sir F. Leighton’s famous frescos, and contains many exquisite objects of art. The N. Court is devoted to Italian-Renaissance sculptures, altars, tabernacles, etc., and costly tapestries, terra- cotta work, fans, laces, and ancient musical instru- ments. ' The Cloisters contain ancient and Oriental furniture, Persian tiles, carpets, and metal-work The National Gallery of British Art is exceedingly interest- 150 CHELSEA. — ON THE THAMES. ing, and has the famous Cartoons of Raphael, many hundreds of choice paintings by Turner, Reynolds, Landseer, Leslie, Wilkie, etc. ; water-colors in great variety ; and the Eorster collection of autographs and MSS. The Prince Consort Gallery contains mediaeval works of art in gold, brass, and steel, silver-gilt, enamel, and ivory. The Keramic Gallery has Palissy, Majolica, Spanish, Wedgwood, Dresden, Sevres, and other wares, in great variety. The Patent-Office Museum adjoins this building. Between Hyde Park and the Thames are Belgravia and Chelsea, the former containing many fine streets, inhabited by rich families, and the latter being noted mainly for its Hospital for old soldiers, built by Wren. Down the Thames. — Many dingy little steamers ply on the Thames, touching every 10 min. at West- minster, Charing Cross, Blackfnars, St. Paul’s, etc. (fares, l-2d.). Their focal point is London Bridge, whence larger boats depart for Greenwich (3-4d.), Woolwich, and the sea. You pass the Tower, St. Catherine’s Docks, London Docks, the Isle of Dogs, the Surrey, Commercial, and W. India Docks. Below Greenwich the river is dull. The journey Up the Thames gives tine view of St. Paul’s on the r.; and. farther up, opposite Blackfriars, the Times newspaper offices. Thence to Waterloo Bridge, you have the Embankment on the r. Above this is the Adelphi Terrace; the Obelisk , on the r.; and passing the bridges to Charing-Cross stat. and Whitehall Stairs, you come to Westminster Bridge . On the 1. are St. Thomas’s Hospital and Lambeth Palace; on the r., the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. Get Dickens’s Dictionary of the Thames (Is.) ENGLAND. 151 Excursions in Southern England. Windsor ( Castle Inn ; White Hart), 22 M. from London, may be reached by G. W. or S. W. Rail- way (return-fares, 5s. 6d., 4s. 3d.) the superb state apartments are open, Mon., Tues., Tliurs., and Fri., on presentation of tickets. When the Queen is at home* which is rare in summer, they are not shown. (Buy Companion through the State Apartments , Id.) The cas- tle stands on the apex of a hill, and may be seen from afar. Here William the Conqueror built a residence. Edward III. was born in Windsor ; and Geoffrey Chaucer* the poet, once lived here. The state apartments are at the N. side. Grand entrance of the castle, George IV.' s Gateway , in the S. front, opposite the Long Walk , a fine vista of elms, 3 M. long. Visitors 5 en- trance, Henry VIII.’s gateway. From the Round Tower (open 11-4) 12 counties may be seen. See Waterloo Hall , fine Van Dycks and Rubenses; Chapel Royal St. George's (open 12-4, free), one of the finest Gothic edifices in Europe (built in 1474), with choir hung round with the banners, helmets, and insignia of the Knights of the Garter ; Albert Chapel , formerly Wolsey's Chapel ', built by Henry VII. and reopened in 1875, superb mosaics, reredos, and cenotaph (open Wed., Thurs., Fri., and Sat.). Fine view from the Castle Terrace. Pleasant drive (7 M.) to Virginia Water (Wheatsheaf Hotel). There are 1,800 acres in the Great Park. Eton College is £ M. from Windsor. The stone chapel, 175 ft. long, is very handsome. Bronze statue of Henry VI. See the fine library and MSS. There are 1,000 students here. The college Avas founded in 1440. Stoke Pogis, the scene of Gray’s Elegy, and the burial-place of the 152 HAMPTON COURT. — RICHMOND. poet, is near Windsor. Fine monument to Gray in Stoke Park. Hampton Court ( Kings Arms; Mitre ; Grey- hound ), rly. in f hr. (13 M.), or Thames (24 M.), has an old palace covering 8 acres. It was founded by Cardinal Wolsey, then at the height of his ambition, and presented to Henry VIII., who coveted it. Here also was a favorite residence of both Charles I. and Crom- well. It is now the home of pensioners of the Crown. (State-apartments open daily, except Fri., 10-6, March — Oct.; on Sun., 2-6.) See the Presence Chamber. Galleries of nearly 1,000 paintings, and the great Gothic Hall, hung with tapestries, and covered with a timber roof. Purchase the Stranger's Guide (6d.), which gives full accounts. Kew Royal Botanical Gardens (South Western Illy.; fares, Is. 9 d..,. Is. 4d., Is. 2d, ; time, \ hr.) contain the plants and flowers of all countries. (Buy hand-book, 6d .) 3 M. from Kew is Richmond {Star and Garter , famous for cuisine, wanes, and high bills), wdiere Edward I. founded a palace, and Queen Elizabeth died. Fine view r from Richmond Hill. The Park (2,255 acres) belongs to the Crown and is open to the public. James Thomson and Edmund Kean are buried in the ch. The Prince of Wales sometimes lives at the White Lodge. Park stocked with nearly 2,000 deer. The foot-paths on either shore afford exquisite views. At Twickenham see Orleans House , the former residence of Louis Phi- lippe ; ch. in which Pope is buried; and Strawberry Hill, Horace Walpole’s' villa. The Crystal Palace, on high ground at Sydenham, wots erected 1853-4, at a cost of $7,500,000. Do not fail to see it. Return fares, including admission (every day except Sat., when admission is 2s. 6d.), 3s., 2s. 3d M ENGLAND, 153 Is. 9d. You can go from London Bridge, Victoria, Kensington, Holborn, or Ludgate Hill stats. The Aquarium, the Aviary, the wonderful Architectural Courts, the Picture Gallery, are worth inspection. Gar- dens very fine ; fireworks on summer evenings. Good restaurants attached. (Guide-books, Id., 3d., Is.) The central hall is 1,608 ft. long, crossed by transepts. The Alexandra Palace (opened 1875), is 6 M. N. of London; £ hr. from Kings Cross. Admission, Is. It is rectangular, with comer towers, covers 7A acres ; and the grounds cover 480 acres. See music hall (seating 12,000), with large organ. Rly. from Alexandra to Highgate (2 M.). in whose picturesque cemetery lie Faraday, S. T. Coleridge, Lord Lyndhurst, and George Eliot. It is an easy walk to Hampstead Heath, 240 acres of breezy highland park, once famous for its highwaymen, and now visited for its beautiful views of London. In Hampstead Ch., Sir James Mackintosh, Joanna Baillie, and Constable, the painter, are buried. Dulwich, -1 hr. by rlv. from Victoria stat. (open daily, 10-4), has paintings purchased for King Stan- islaus of Poland, but given to God's Gill College. Works of Murillo, Teniers, Rembrandt, Cuyp, Rubens, Van Dyck, Velazquez, and Titian. Portrait of Mrs. Siddons, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. Greenwich Hospital (6 M. from Charing Cross ; fares, Is., 9d., 6d. ; time, | hr. Or bv steamer in 1 hr. from London Bridge; fares, 6d., 4d.), for old and dis- abled seamen of the Royal Navy, on site of palace where Henry VIII. was born, where he married Anne Boleyn, and where Edward VI died. Hospital open, free, Tues. and Eri. ; on other days, 4d. The Painted Hall and the Chapel open daily, 10-7 in summer. See also Dining Hall, Museum, and Royal Naval School. 154 ST. ALBANS. — PUTNEY. — MARGATE. Greenwich Park (174 acres) contains some fine old elms, planted in the time of Charles II. On a little hill stands the Royal Observatory , built in 1675. Harrow-on-the-Hill is 11J M. hr.) from Lon- don. Harrow Cii. stands on an isolated hill, whence grand panorama. Harrow is the location of the second leading public school in the kingdom (founded 1571). In the old schoolroom the names of Byron, Robert Peel, Sheridan, Palmerston, and others are carved on the panels. See the Chapel and the School Library. St. Albans, 21 M. out (|-1 hr.), has a noble Nor- man Abbey Ch., founded by Offa II., King of Mercia, in 795 ; rebuilt 1077-88, and made a cathedral in 1877. It is 425 ft. long, and has a massive tower (whence fine view) ; the shrine of St. Alban, the pro to martyr of England (a.d. 324) ; and quaint old chantries and stained windows. 2 battles occurred here in the Wars of the Roses. In St. Michael's Ch. Bacon is bur- ied. See Roman walls , Gatehouse , and Clock Tower. Putney ( Star and Garter) is quickly reached by steamboat or by rly. Gibbon was born, and Pitt died, here. At Chiswick Fox and Canning died, and Ho- garth is buried. Opposite Putney is Fulham, with a fine old palace and park of the Bishops of London. Lovely river-scenery in this region. To the S. is Wim- bledon, with famous rifle-ranges. Norwich, 126 \ M. from London (fares, 21s., 16s., 10s. lOd.) has many quaint old buildings and chs., a lofty castle, and a splendid Norman cathedral (founded in 1096). CoU Chester and Ipswich , with their fine relics of medieval- ism, may be visited on the way to Harwich. Margate ( ' Clift onville Hotel ; White Hart ; York), 72 M. from London, is thronged with visitors in sum- mer. Pier 900 ft. long. Principal chs.: St. John’s, Trinity, St. Paul’s. Ramsgate, 4| M. S., is rather ENGLAND. 155 more aristocratic. Season from June to Nov. Bathing- good. Fine pier, commenced in 1750. Eastbourne (Burlington Hotel ; Anchor; Albion i), 65 M. from Lon- don (express, 16s., 13s., 9s. 6d., 5s), is a favorite watering-place. Grand Parade faces the sea. Hastings (Queen s Hotel , very large ; Albion ; Royal- Marine') is 76 M. from London (return-fares, 25s., 20s.).. “ St. Leonard’s-on-Sea,” the Belgraviaof Hastings (Air exandra Hotel ; Royal Victoria; Palace ), is the prettiest watering-place in Sussex. Fine beach, and a pleasant esplanade, with splendid line of houses fronting the sea for 2 M. Castle may be visited. Good view of the old town from the Sea Cliffs or the Pier (900 ft. long).. Pavilion, first-class baths, aquarium, reading-rooms, here. Excursions should be made to Battle Abbey , 8 M. ; Bexhill, 5 M. ; Catsfield, 3 M. At Battle (Rail- way Hotel ; George ), battle of Hastings was fought. The grand ruins of Battle Abbey are open Tues., 12-4. Brighton. — It is pleasant to go by a 4-horse coach (tri-weekly, in 6 hrs., 15s.) from the White Horse Cel- lar , in Piccadilly, to the Old Ship Hotel, in Brighton. Rlv., 1J hr. ; return-fares, 17s. 6d., 12s. 6d. Principal hotels on the sea-front: Grand, Bedford, Norfolk, Royal. York, Albion, Old Ship, Markwell’s, Queen’s, Albemarle, Bristol. Many boarding-houses. Brighton is London by the sea. The attraction is the fine sea-front of 3 M. long. The Brighton Grand Aquarium is the largest in the world. On the E. part of the Promenade is the Chain Pier , 1,136 ft. long. The W. Pier is opposite Regency-Square. Music on the piers. The Royal Pa- vilion, begun in 1784 by the Prince of Wales, is now owned by the town, and used for public balls, etc. Library and Picture Gallery here. Near are the South Downs, 55 M. in length, with a breadth of 4^ M. Tunbridge Wells (Calverly Hotel ; MU Ephraim), is I 56 SOUTHAMPTON. — WINCHESTER. ■a popular inland watering-place, with chalybeate springs. Bay ham Abbey ruins near by. A pleasant excursion may be made along the South Coast from Brighton to Portsmouth ( George Hotel ; Star and Garter; Sussex ), very important naval station. See the Dockyards (open 10-12, 1-3). Order from Admiralty obligatory for foreigners. Off the Dockyard lies the Victory , the old wooden ship in which Nelson died. Southsea {Queen's Hotel; Roy at) is a fashionable watering-place near by. See the Common , the Pier , the Esplanade. From Portsmouth passengers may embark for the Isle of Wight. Portsmouth is 72 M. from London (fares, 15s. 6d., 10s. 10d., 6s. 2d.). Southampton ( South Western Hotel; Dolphin; Royal), an important steamship station, 78f M. from London (fares, 15s. 6d., 11s., 6s. 6d.). Boats for the Channel Islands , Harwich, the Isle of Wight, America, and India. In Blue Anchor Lane is King John's Pal- ace, one of the oldest houses in England. Excursion to lovely Netley Abbey, 3 M. (open Mon., Tues., Wed., Eri., and Sat.). You may next go to Salisbury {White Hart Hotel ; Red Lion ; Three Swans ; Angel), which contains a noble Cathedral, among the very first in England. It was founded in 1220, and was the first great English church in the Pointed Style. Exqui- site spire, the highest in England (101 ft.). Cloisters, Chapter-House, and Nave very noticeable. Sculp- tures in Chapter-House from Old Testament history. Statue of Sydney Herbert in the market-place. See Blackmore Museum. Excursions to Stonehenge, 9 M. N., vast ruins of a Druidic sanctuary; Wilton House, (3 M.), with fine paintings ; and Longford Castle. Winchester {George Hotel; Royal; Black Swan) is one of the great historical cities of England. The Cathedral (1070-1118), 560 ft. long, nave 265 ft., is the principal attraction. Architecture of Nave very ENGLAND. 157 curious. See Mural Monuments , Font, and Chantry. In the Central Lady Chapel Queen Mary was married to Philip of Spain, in 1554. See Castle, and make ex- cursion to Hospital of St. Cross ; admission, 6d. Pares to London, 66^ M., 13s. 10d., 9s. 9d., 5s. 6d. The Isle of Wight may be reached from South- ampton by steamers to Cowes (in f lir ), or to Ryde. Trains run between Ryde and Ventnor, with branch to Newport, and between Ryde and Cowes. The Isle is 22 1 M. long*, and 14 M. broad. Ventnor and the Under Cliff are recommended to invalids. In summer secure rooms in advance. Ryde ( Eaglelnn ; Esplanade; Pier) has a fine pier, a school of art, and a museum. It is 12 M. to Ventnor, through delightful scenery. On the route is Sandown ( Sandown House ; King’s Head), a fashionable resort. Sands and bathing good. Shanklin ( Daish’s Hotel ; Collier’s) is a picturesque village. The Chine, near by, is a romantic ravine. Bonchurch, 11 M. from Ryde, is very beautiful*; John Sterling is buried here. 1 Ventnor ( Royal Marine ; Queen’s; Esplanade; Crab and Lobster) is much fre- quented. Fares from London to Ventnor, 21s. 2d., 15s. Id., 11s. Return tickets (good for 8 days), 35s. 9d., 26s. 6d., 19s. 9d. Near by is Norris Castle, where the Queen formerly resided; and Osborne House, where she now and then lives. Newport is 1 M. from Carisbrooke Castle, a grand historic ruin. Bath ( Grand Pump Room Hotel ; York ; White Lion) has the most sumptuously appointed warm baths in Europe. It is a city of 52,000 inhab., on the Avon, and once famous as the home of Beau Nash, and the scene of Miss Austen’s novels. See the stately Abbey Ch . (1499) ; Beckford’s Tower and tomb ; the Guildhall ; and many fine residences and parks. Excursions to Prior Park, Lansdown Hill, Hampton Dozen, and the ruins of Hutton Abbey. Prom Bath it is 11^ M. to 158 BRISTOL. — CARDIFF. — WELLS. Bristol ( Royal Hotel; Grand; George ), the capital of the W. of England, and a very ancient city. It is on the Avon, 7 M. from the sea. Fine docks at the river’s mouth. See St. Mary Redcliffe Ch., very lovely ; the Cathedral (1140), with tombs of Bishop Butler and Jane Porter, fine cloisters and chapter- house ; College Gate ; the Mayor's Chapel (1220); Bris- tol Museum; Clifton , a beautiful suburb; the Suspen- sion Chain Bridge (get the views); Nightingale Val- ley; and Zoological Gardens. Excursions to Blaise Castle; and George Muller’s Orphan Asylum (2050 children) at Ashley station. From Bristol you may cross the Bristol Channel to Cardiff (Royal Hotel ; Cardiff Arms'), a very important Welsh port. See Bute Docks; the Castle ; and Sophia Bark. Excursions to Caerphilly Castle ; Llandaff (with grand old Cathedral); Llanwit; and St. Donat's. From Cardiff you can make an excursion through S. Wales ; and it will richly repay. Fares from Cardiff to London (170| M.), 35s. 6d., 25s. ; from Bristol to London (118^ M.), 26s. Id,, 18s. 3d. Devonshire is one of the most interesting parts of England. Tourists can reach Exeter from London in 4-5 hrs. (distance, 171J M. ; fares, 35s., 25s., 14s. 3Jd.). Or they may go from Bristol to Exeter by Wells (Swan Hotel ; Star ; Mitre), which is a perfect eccle- siastical city, with a moated Bishop's Palace , an em- battled Deanery , and a quaint Vicar's Close. The venerable Cathedral is very rich in sculptures, and in every way impressive. Superb Chapter-House. (See local guides.) Glastonbury (George Hotel ; Red Lion) has a ruined Abbey , one of the earliest centres of Christianity in England. King Arthur was buried here. The George Inn was a hostelry for pilgrims in Edward IV.’s time. This is the ancient Isle of Avalon. Get Williamson' s Guide , Is. See St. John’s and St ENGLAND. 159 Benedict’s Chs. Exeter ( Clarence Hotel ; New Lon- don; Half-Moon) lias grand Cathedral , built 1107- 1206, with interesting chapels, Minstrels’ Gallery, choir, close, and far-viewing tow r er; the Castle , Norman ruins ; the Elizabethan Guildhall ; and Albert Museum. Plymouth ( Duke of Cornwall Hotel ; Royal) is rich in objects of interest. See the Hoe , St. Andrew's Ch., the New Guildhall , Athenreum , Raglan Barracks , the Devonport Column. The Eddystone Lighthouse is 14 M. from Plymouth ; excursion by steamer. Tor- quay (Imperial; Royal; Belgrave), is a famous water- ing-place. See the Bay, where the Prince of Orange landed in 1688 ; Tor Abbey , the Ch ., and the Museum. Beautiful drives and walks. Fares to London (220 M.), 40s. 2d., 28s. 5d., 16s. 5|d. Get guides of Devon Coast and Cornwall. Penzance (.Queen's Hotel) is 328 M. from London (fares, 63s. 6d., 44s. 6d., 26s. 6|d.). Routes to the Continent. Quickest Routes. — Via Dover and Calais : 22 M. across Channel. To Paris, 283 M. (fares, £3, £2 5s.). Lay service : leave London 7.40 a. m. ; arrive at Paris 6.05 p.m. Night service: leave London 8.05 p.m. ; reach Paris 6 a.m. — Via Folkestone and Boulogne , day tidal service : London to Paris, 255 M.; Channel passage, 28 M. in 2 hrs. (Fares, £2 16s., £2 2s. ; time, 8-i hrs.) There is a cheap night service to Paris via Boulogne or Calais (fares, 2d class 31s. 6d., 3d class 21s.). Return tickets, express route, via. Lover and Calais, or Folkestone and Boulogne, £4 15s., £3 15s.; by night service, 47s., 31s. 6d. You will pass, by South Eastern, Chiselhurst, where Napoleon III. died, and where he and his son Louis are buried; and by Chat- ham and Dover, you pass Rochester, which has an antique Norman Cathedral,, with interesting chapels 160 ROCHESTER. — CANTERBURY. — BOYER. and the ruins of a powerful Norman castle, with beauti- ful environs, including’ Dickens’s old home, Gad's HilL J ust beyond is Chatham, , with important dock-yards ; and Canterbury {Fountain Hotel; Rose; Fleur -de-Lys ). The ancient Mercery Lane leads to the famous Cathedral, built 1070-1184, 522 ft. long, with remarkable chapels, monuments, crypts, cloisters, and a very beautiful and lofty central tower. See St. Augustine' s College for missionaries, in the ruins of the ancient abbey. Thomas a Becket was killed in the cathedral, and the Black Prince is buried there. At Folkestone {Pavilion Hotel ; Alexandra Hotel ) the train stops near the steamers. Dover ( Lord Warden Hotel ; Dover Castle ; King's Head) is worth half a day’s stay. The Castle , the Keep, the Watch Tower , the Heights and Batteries , and Shakespeare's Cliff {vide King Lear), deserve attention. Routes Longer and Less Expensive. — Via Newhaven and Dieppe (day and night boats in summer, tidal service). Fares, tickets good for 7 days, 33s., 24s., 17s. Time, 12-13 hrs. Channel passage, 64 M. (5^-7 hrs.). — Via Southampton and Havre: Mon., Wed., and Fri. (fares, 33s., 24s.). Boats leave South- ampton at 11.45 p.m. Channel and river passage to Havre, 8|-9 hrs. — From London Bridge , across the Channel to Boulogne. — From Dover to Ostend, for those going to Belgium. London to Ostend, 37s. 5d., 26s. 7d. Channel passage, 68 M. (4 hrs.). — From London , via Harwich , to Rotterdam or Antwerp . Leave London at 8 p. m.; Harwich, 10 p. m. ; reach Rotterdam 9 a. m. Antwerp boat leaves at same time ; reaches Antwerp 10 a. m. London to Ant- werp or Rotterdam, 26s., 21s., 15s. . Returns, 40s., 31s. 6d., 24s. Daily service. — From London , via Queensborough, to Flushing daily. NORTHERN FRANCE. 161 NORTHERN FRANCE. rnHE Ports of Entry in France at which you ■** may arrive from England are described below. Calais ( Hotel Meurice ; Dessin ; Sauvage) may be seen in 2-3 hrs. The Citadel (1560) ; the Fortes Rot/ale, du Havre , and de la Mer ; the old bastion called Le Courgain , are very curious. The English held Calais from 1347 to 1558, when France regained possession. Mary Tudor said the name Calais would be found writ- ten on her heart. The Ch. of Notre Fame , with a pic- ture by Rubens ; the Hotel de Ville, on the Place d' Amies ; the old Guet Tower ; and the Hotel de Guise (Tudor style), built by Edward III. and his successors, are the principal sights. The Hotel Dessin is mentioned in Sterne’s Sentimental J ourney. Good sea-bathing in sum- mer. From Calais you may go, via Lille, to^ Brussels. Boulogne ( Hotel des Bains ; He la Marine ; Meu- rice ; Du Pavilion), f hr. from Calais (fares, 5 fr. 30 c., 3 fr. 95 c.), is a picturesque town on the Liane, where: it enters the Channel. It is a fashionable summer re- sort. Has many English residents. The Qaais; the Pier ; the old fishers’ town; the ancient Porte des Dunes , with a statue dated 1231; the clumsy Cathedral of Notre Dame ; the Chateau (1230), where Louis Na- poleon was confined in 1840 ; the Hotel de Ville ; and the great Sea-Bathing Establishment , merit notice. Le Sage, author of Gil Bias , and Godfrey de Bouillon were born here. On a hill is the Colonne de la Grande Armee , built 1804-41. Here Napoleon I. assembled an immense army and fleet for invading England. Dieppe {Royal Hotel ; Bristol ; Des Bains ; Victoria j) 11 162 HAVRE. is a summer resort of the fashionable world. See the Casino , on the beach ; the great Castle (1133) ; the an- cient Ch. of St. Jacques, patron saint of fishermen ; the piers ; and the Statue of Duquesne. The bathing is fairly good. A red fiag is hoisted when the tide is favor- able. Ruined castle of Arcques, 1 M. S. E. Carved ivory is a specialty of Dieppe. Havre {Hotel Frascati ; Be Bordeaux ; Be Norman- die ; Continental ; Be V Europe; B’ Angleterre), once known as Havre de Grace , from a chapel founded by Louis XII. in 1509, is one of the most important sea- ports in Europe. About 100,000 inhab. Immense American trade. The Docks are remarkable. The Jetee du Nord commands a fine view. From the hill of Ste. Adresse the outlook is charming. The prin- cipal things to see are : The Ch. of N6tre Dame (1575); the Hotel de Ville ; the Palais de Justice ; the Grand Treatre ; the Customs Barracks; and the Museum (open Sun., Tues., and Thurs., from 10 to 4). Bronze statues (by David) of Bernardin de St. Pierre and Oasimir de la Yigne, natives of Havre. The Jardin PuUique is pretty. Rue de Paris is the finest street. Steamers weekly to New York. (See Chapter on Travel.) Opposite Havre, in a pretty bend of the coast (1 hr. by steamer), is Trouville-sur-Mer {Hotel des Roches Noires, with bathing ; Be Paris ; B’ Angleterre; Bellevue), with its fine Casino (admission, 2 fr.) and beautiful beach. Great number of villas here and at Beauville . Aristocratic resort in Aug. and Sept. Near Trou ville is a chapel in which William the Conqueror offered prayer before he set out to conquer England. 1 hr. by rail from Trouville is Hotifleur. Htretat, much frequented by painters, and Fecamp , a great bathing resort, with a fine Casino, may be vis- ited from Havre. Pares from Havre to Paris, 2Sfr. 10 c., 21 fr. 5 c., 15 fr. 45 c. You may go from Havre to NORTHERN FRANCE. 163 Rouen by the Seine, a lovely journey, but very slow (lares, 5 fr., 4 fr.). Rouen ( Hotel d' Albion ; U Angleterre ; Be France ; Be la Poste) can be visited on the way to Paris from Havre or Dieppe. It is the fierce commercial rival of Havre, a port of much importance, and historically and architecturally one of the most attractive places in France. This ancient capital of Normandy has great cotton factories and wine depots. (105,000 inhab.) The Cathedral of Notre Bame is a magnificent Gothic edi- fice, built 1207-80. The central portal on the W. was erected by Cardinal d’Amboise, the favorite of Louis XII., about 1510. Profuse decorations in florid style. The Butter Tower {Tour de Beurre ) was built with money got from the sale of indulgences to eat butter in Lent. This is 230 ft. high, unfinished, like its twin. The central spire was destroyed by lightning in 1822, and replaced by an ugly cast-iron structure, 465 ft. high. Spiral staircase to the top. The fa£ade (16th century) contains many remarkable statues and bits of sculptures. In the venerable Tour St. Romain is a charming 15th-century hall. See the Choir; the 25 chapels ; the beautiful stained windows, especially the rose windows in the nave and transepts ; the chapel S. of the nave, which contains the tomb of Rollo, the first Duke of Normandy (927) ; and the chapel oppo- site, in which William of the Long Sword (d. 943) is buried. In the Chapelle du Christ , near the High Altar, is a mutilated limestone figure, 7 ft. high, of Richard Cceur de Lion. The heart of the great king is buried in the Choir. Henry II. of England is buried here. The monument to Due de Breze, erected by his wife, Diana of Poitiers, mistress of Henri II. Also one to Cardinal d’Amboise is in this chapel The cathedral was begun in the reign of Jean sans Terre, 164 KOUEN. and finished in 1477. Interior is 435 ft. long, height of nave 89| ft., 130 windows. The beautiful Ch. of St. Ouen is one of the noblest Gothic structures in Europe. It is cruciform, and dates from 1318. The portal, between two pyramidal towers, is extremely graceful. Central Tower, “ the Crown of Normandy,” 285 ft. high. Interior, 443 ft. long by 83 ft. wide. 3 exquisite rose windows; 145 stained-glass windows. This ch. suffered much from the Iconoclasts (in 1562), as also did the bas-reliefs over the entrance of the great cathedral. The Ch. of St. Maclou (15th- 16th centuries) has a very fine stone spire, and a foun- tain by Jean Goujon. Other chs.: St. Patricia (1535), magnificent stained glass of the 16th century, and paint- ings by Mignard and Poussin ; St. Godard , fine mural paintings ; St. Gervais , with a crypt of the 4th century. St. Vincent and St. Romain also merit a visit. The Archiepiscopal Palace (1461) and the Hotel de Ville , which is a remnant of the old Abbey of St. Ouen , should be visited (library, 120,000 vols.). In front of the Hotel de Ville is an equestrian statue of Napoleon I. Interesting statues of Corneille, J eanne d’ Arc, and Geri- cault. Palace of Justice {concierge shows it, If.) is a veritable Gothic chef d? oeuvre. The room in which the assizes is held has a carved oaken roof, and it was there that the Parliament of Normandy held its sessions. On the 1. of the Courtyard is a great Hall, built in 1493 as a merchants’ exchange. It is now the place where lawyers meet their clients to consult. The Museum now contains hundreds of pictures by David, Delacroix, Gericault, Paul Veronese, Poussin, and other celebrated artists. Visit the Rue de la Grosse Horloge, one of the most interesting streets in the city. The old clock- tower, with a gate beneath, dates from 1527. The most interesting section of Pouen is the Place de NORTHERN FRANCE. 165 la PuceUe, where a fountain marks the place on which Joan of Arc is said to have been burned, in 1431. The 15th-century Hotel du Bourgtheroulde fronts on this square. Curious decorations on the tower, and bas- reliefs, one of which shows the Field of the Cloth of Gold. In the Rue Jeanne d’Arc is a Tower (built 1205), subsequently named after the maid, and sup- posed to have been her prison. The Museum of An- tiquities and the Museum of Natural History are in an old convent near the Place Beauvoisine. The town is rich in old houses with timber-fronts. The Seine here is a large river, navigable for most ships, and bordered by fine quays. The Cours Boiel - (lieu has a statue of Bo'ieldieu, the composer, a native of Rouen. The Seine is crossed by a bridge, adorned with a Statue of Corneille ; and by a suspension bridge, at whose end is a Monument to the Abbe de la Salle. The surrounding country is extremely beautiful. Climb the adjacent hills, especially to the Pilgrimage Ch. of Bon-Secours, 2 M. out. Delightful view over Normandy. The service in the ch. is peculiar. Many pretty excursions by steamer on the Seine. Yisit the Chateau of Robert le Diable , near La Bouille.. From Rouen to Paris the fares are 16 fr. 75 c., 12 J fr.,, 9 fr. 20 c. Rouen may be easily visited in a day from Paris (fares, 16 J fr., 12 J fr., 9 fr. 20 c.), returning in the afternoon. At Mantes — called “ beautiful Mantes 5 ’ — is the Gothic Ch. of Notre Dame, of the 12th century,, richly sculptured. Junction here for Caen and Cher- bourg. Farther on is Poissy , the birthplace of St. Louis, a lovely town on the Seine, and a favorite resort of artists (great prison here); the Forest of St. Germain> through which the line passes ; Colombes ; St. Germain y with its palace, may be seen on the r.; and Asnieres , a Parisian suburb, inhabited by commercial people. 166 AMIENS. — ABBEVILLE. — ABBAS. Amiens {Hotel de V Univers ; Du Rhiri) is a great manufacturing town (80,000 inhab.), once the capital of Picardy. See Gothic Cathedral , erected 1220-88, and one of the finest in Europe. The spire (422 ft. high) was restored in 1529. The W. fa9ade is one of the most beautiful that can be imagined. The 2 towers are decorated with many statues and medallions. In the Porche du Sauveur is a magnificent statue of Christ, commonly called Le Beau Dieu d' Amiens. Eew cathe- dral interiors’ excite such lively admiration for pro- digious vaults, lightness of the columns, and astonishing variety of lines. The nave is 147 ft. high, and 126 columns support its airy vaulting. See organ gallery (1422); 110 stalls in the choir, with 3,650 figures; superb rose-window ; stained-glass windows ; and the great number of monuments and chapels. The choir- wall is adorned with reliefs from the history of John the Baptist and the life of St. Firmin. Length of the cathedral, 469 ft.; of transept, 213 ft.; width of nave, 144 ft.; towers, 181 ft. and 210 ft. In the rear is a statue of Peter the Hermit, a native of Amiens, who preached the First Crusade. The Picardy Museum con- tains interesting pictures. The new Palace of Justice , and the Prefecture , which has a 15th-century bell-tower, should be seen. About midway between Amiens and Boulogne is Abbeville, which contains many odd 15th and 16th century houses ; also the Ch. of St. Vulfran , and a statue to the composer Lesueur. Fares from Amiens to Paris, 16fr. 10c., 12 fr. 10c., 8 fr. 85 c. Bly. connec- tion from Amiens with Arras, Douai, and Lille. Arras {Hotel de V Univers; Du Commerce) has a double line of fortifications ; a citadel constructed by Yauban in 1670 ; and a cathedral, which was the old Ch. of the Abbey of St. Yaast. Within it are seen fine pictures attributed to Rubens and Yan Dyck ; and the treasury NORTHERN FRANCE. 167 contains the robe that Thomas a Becket wore when he was assassinated. The great square of Arras is a fine illustration of the pictorial style which prevailed during the Spanish domination. Museum and Public Library . The coast line of N. Trance is dotted with pleasant summer-resorts and picturesque towns, old and new. From Paris to Cherbourg (fares, 45 fr. 70 c., 34 fr. 25 c.„ 25 fr. 10 c.), via Caen, is a journey through the inter- esting Norman towns of Evreux (fine cathedral, 11th century, restored in the 18th) ; Lisieux (cathedral,. 1136-1233, in which Henri II. was married, 1152) and Caen (Hotel cl' Angleterre ; D’Espayne), population 41,181, the town of which Madame de Sevigne said that it was the source “ de tons nos plus beaux espritsP View from the heights very imposing. See St. Etienne and Trinite Chs. ; the Chateau , founded by William the Conqueror; the Hotel de Vi lie, decorated with medallions of celebrated Normans ; the Museum (400 paintings) ; the Academy ; the Hotel de Valois ; and the Place de la Republique. You can reach Caen from Havre by steamer (6 fr., 5. fr.), and go thence to Cherbourg ; and thence up to Paris, if de- sired. Cherbourg ( Hotel des Bains; Be I’Amiraute et de V Europe'), a city of 37,000 inhab., on the peninsula of Cotentin, is the first military port in France, and a very important fortress. There is little to see beside the docks and fortifications ; and, in the Museum, a portrait of Leonardo da Vinci, painted by himself. Fine casino. Granville, farther down on the coast, is the port whence the steamers sail for the Channel Islands. Fares from Paris to Granville, 46 fr. 40 c., 36 fr. 30 c., 22 fr.. 20 c. Still farther down is Mt. Saint Michel, an imposing granite rock, 2,700 ft. around and nearly 200 ft. high, connected with the coast by a dike. The sea surrounds it at high tide. The rock is 168 PARIS. surmounted by immense fortifications, an abbey , and a ch., with a statue of St. Michael. Pilgrimages have been made here since Louis XI. created St. Michael’s Order, in 1469. St. Malo, near by, was the birth- place of Chateaubriand, and Jacques Cartier, the pioneer in Canada. Dinan is a pretty little town, with old walls and a 15th-century castle. Great numbers of English people winter here. Binard , 4 M. from St. Malo, has a fine bathing establishment. The line to Brest is close by. Brest, population 66,000, is a military port and fortress. Vast marine hospital, and barracks. Formidable batteries. Fares, Brest to Paris, 75 fr. 10 c., 56 fr. 35 c., 41 fr. 35 c. On the way see Chartres { Hotel de France; Du Grand Monarque ), an ancient city, with celebrated Cathedral, the towers of which can be seen for 25 M. Upon this noble Gothic ch., which was 160 years in building, there are many thou- sands of statues ; there are 50 bas-reliefs in the choir, and marvellous stained windows of the 12th and 13th centuries. Henri IV. was consecrated in this ch. in 1594. 2 spires, one 371 ft., the other 340 ft. high. There is a Black Virgin here, much adored. The Crypt is beautiful. Many odd 13th-century houses here. Gen. Marceau was a native of Chartres. The Museum contains a noted picture representing his funeral. Paris. Paris, with the exception of the old sections, is a very easy city in which to find one’s way about. In summer street-merchants are always at your elbow with very good maps, with which you can explore the capital, even if you know no French. If you arrive at the Gare du Nord (N. Bly. stat.), and are not encum- bered with baggage, walk down the Rue de Lafayette PARIS. to the Grand Opera and the Boulevard Haussma then turn up the Rue Scribe to the main bouleval and you will find yourself in the centre of PJ If you come in from Normandy, you will arrive the Gave St. Lazar e, but a short walk from the boil yards. In the stat. your baggage is examined bij for general customs and octroi duties. Spirits cigars are the only things about which the officJ are strict. A porter will take your trunk or valisel call a cab, install you in it, give you a little card wil the cab’s number on it, and for this expects aboJ| 50 c. (lOcts.). If you have a party, and several larg trunks, charter a small private omnibus (alway plenty). One that will hold 6 persons costs 6 fr., and no extra charge is made for a reasonable amount of Driver expects fee. Cabs ( Voitures ). — The cab system of Paris is simple and convenient. From 6 a.w. until 12.30 p.m. a 1 -horse open or closed public carriage for 2 persons costs, according to legally established tariff, 1^ fr. for single drive ; gratuity ( pour - boire), rendered obligatory by custom, 25 c. : by the hr., 2 fr. ; pourboire, 30 c. Each carriage is numbered on the lamps, and the driver is bound to give you a printed ticket, with the number and tariff on it. Cabs for 4 persons cost 2 fr. per drive, and 2J fr. per hr. If you go outside the fortificationi you must make special arrangement for time you are outsidej From 12.30 night until 6 a.m. the tariff is, for 2-seated cabs. ' 2^ fr. per drive, 2J fr. per hr. ; 4 -seated, 2\ fr. per drive, 2| fr] per hr TKe whole of a first hr. (when you engage by the nr.J must always be paid ; £ hrs. thereafter, 50 c. each. Baggagl (ontsidt^), 25 c. per piece. Livery-stable rates per day anl per mon\th for carriages are rather high from May to Aug. I with a little care a good open carriage for 2 (driver in livery,) may be had for 25-30 fr. per day ; gratuity to driver. PARIS. orse-cars (called tramways) run on most of the great oughfares* except the grand boulevards. They are double - ed ; the large ones are very fine. Go to the suburbs on them rather than by rail or in private carriage. Om- buses abound ; there are 32 lines. A full fare paid on e procures you a correspondance gratis on another, until u have reached your destination. Fares inside, 30 c. ; ove, outside, 15 c. On some streets the tramway cars are oved by steam. On the Seine there are a great many all steamers, called mouch.es and hirondelles , “ flies ” and swallows.” Fares very cheap. — Circular Railway. The Ceinture is the name of the railway which runs around aris, within the walls (23 M.). It is useful for giving a good idea of the capital’s geography. Round trip in 2 hrs. Hotels. — We give the best, the most central, and suit- able for strangers: Hotel Bristol ', Place Venddme, expensive, aristocratic; Hotel Continental , Rue de Rivoli- and Cas- tiglione, new, splendid, reasonable (this house is on a portion of the site of the Ministry of Finance, burned during the Commune) ; Hotel du Louvre , Rue de Rivoli ; Grand Hotel , Boulevard des Capucines ; Terminus , Gare St. Lazare ; Hu Rhin , Place Yen dome ; Meurice, Windsor , Brighton , Rue de Rivoli ; Grand Hotel St. James , He Lille et d' Albion, He Normandie, Rue St. Honore ; Westminster , JWrabeau, He la Hollande, Rue de la Paix ; He Londres. Homimci, Liverpool, Rue Castiglione ; Chatham, He 1' Empire, He V Amiraute, H’ Orient, Rue Daunou (Rue Neuve St. Au- gustin) ; Bellevue , Hes Heux Mondes, and Binda, in the Avenue de l’Opera; Hu Palais, Cours La Reine . H'Afbe, Avenue de l’Alma ; He St. Petersbourg, Rue Cauria»:Vii ; He VAthenee, Rue Scribe; He Bade, Boulevard des Italiens ; i He la Terrasse Jouffroy , Boulevard Montmartre ; He Bavi ere, |Rue du Conservatoire; Des Ambassadeurs, Rue 'de Lille; He Londres, Rue Bonaparte; Hu Senaf, Rue de/Tournon. Among more modest hotels, good, we may mention the Hotel de la Tami.se, Rue d’ Alger ; He la Coiironne, Rue du Dau- nhin ; Trois Princes, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs; H An- l’ Anting ITefder, Rue du If elder : Byron , Rue PARIS. 171 Laffitte ; Du Canada , Rue de Choiseul ; De France , Rue de Beaune ; Des Strangers, Rue Racine. Boarding-Houses (or Pensions). — Of these there 1 are many. Prices, 10-15 fr. daily. We give the ad- dresses of a few, frequented chiefly by Americans: Madame Russell, 29 Boulevard Haussmann ; M. and Mine. Pincet, 35 Rue Gambon ; Mrs. Defone, 52 bis Boulevard Haussmann ; Prof. Tonnst, same ad- dress ; Mme. Starck, 30 Rue Bassano; Hotel Campbell, 61 Avenue de Friedland ; Mrs. Scofield, 28 Avenue de Jena ; American Pension, 7 Avenue du Trocadero ; the Misses McDonnell, 90 Rue de la Pompe ; Hotel Dijon, 29 Rue Caumartin. Furnished single rooms can be had in all quarters of Paris, at from 40 to 125 fr. per month. Furnished suites of rooms (in French aparte- ment signifies a suite) from 250 fr. per month upwards. See the New York Herald (Paris edition), the Register , or the English Galignani , for other particulars. Restaurants and Cafes. — Cafe Voisin, Rue St. Ho- nore; Cafe Anglais, 13 Boulevard des Italiens ; Cafe Riche, 16 same street; Maison Doree, 20 same street; Bignon , 32 Avenue de 1* Opera ; Noel-Peters, Passage des Princes ; B rebant, 31 Boulevard Poissonniere ; Margu^ry, 34 and 36 Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle ; Bonvalefs, Boulevard du Temple ; Cafe de la Paix, near the Grand Opera ; Maire, 14 Boulevard St. Denis ; Cafe de Paris, 41 Avenue de 1’ Opera ; Vi an (favorite resort for Americans), Rue Daunou ; Gaillon, Place Gaillon ; Taverne de Londres, 1 Rue Gretry ; Morel, .8 Rue Favart ; Ledoyen , in the Champs Elysees ; Champeaux, 13 Place de la Bourse ; Durand, 2 Place de la Madeleine ; Magny, 3 Rue Muzet ; Foyot , 33 Rue de Tournon ; Lucas (English cookery), 9 Place de la Madeleine ; Hill, Boulevard des Capucines. These are all a la carte.- The 8 first men- tioned are rather expensive ; the others more moderate. In the Palais Royal and the Passage des Panoramas, and on the Boulevard Montmartre, are several restaurants where break- fasts and dinners at fixed prices may be had. At the Dtnet de Paris, 12 Boulevard Montmartre, breakfast is 3 fr. ; dinner, 172 PARIS. 5 fr. Wine is always included in fixed-price dinners. The Diner Europeen is very good : breakfast, 3 fr. ; dinner, 5 fr. In the Palais Royal there are numerous restaurants that give breakfast at 1 fr. 75 c. ; dinner, 2 fr. 25 c. to 2 fr. 50 c. The Duval Restaurants , or Etablissements de Bouillon, are peculiar. There is but a limited choice of dishes, but everything is well prepared and moderately cheap. The Parisians break- fast 10.30-1, and dine 6-8. We cannot mention one- third of the principal cafes, but will recommend the Cafes de la Paix , Tortoni , Grand , Americain, Helder, Madrid , Riche , Varietes , De Paris , Napolitain. In the Bois, restaurants : Pavilion d’Armenonville , la Cascade , Madrid. Ladies may visit most of the cafes men- tioned above, except the Americain, in the evening. General Information. — The American Legation is at No. 59 Rue Galilee ; present minister, Hon. Whitelaw Reid. The Consulate of the United States is 36 Ave. de 1’ Opera ; present Consul, Adam E. King. American church services : Rue de Berry, 21 ; Ave- nue de l’Alma, 19 (Episcopal). The Latin Quarter , S. of the Seine, has for centuries been devoted to universities, colleges, and schools of all kinds. Many thousands of students reside there all the time. The Students’ Ball, called the Closerie des Lilas, or Bullier, is at the Carr ef our de V Observatoire. There are three principal race meetings in Paris, in April, May, and September. The spectacle in the Bois de Boulogne when the Gra7id Prix (the principal summer race) is run, should not be missed. The principal prize is 100,000 fr. We would suggest that you start from the Place de la Concorde, walk up the Rue Roy ale to the Ch. of the Madeleine (Magdalen), and then follow the line of the grands boulevards to the Place de la Bastille. You may go on an omnibus-top for 3 sous, or in an open carriage for 1 fr. 75 c. ; but we say walk. Boulevard means bulwark ; and these fine streets were called so because they are on the line of the old fortifications. PARIS. 173 Nowadays tlie term is loosely applied to any large new avenue. You pass up the boule- vards — JDes Ca/pucines (this is in mid -Paris; here are the Grand Hotel, the Opera, the Grand Cafe, the Jockey Club, and the Rue Scribe ) : J)es lialiens (brilliant with theatres and restaurants) ; Montmartre (splendid cafes and shops) ; Poissoniere ; Bonne-Nouvelle ; St. Denis (see the old city gates, very fine) ; St. Martin, ; l)a Temple ; Des Fillets du Cal- vaire ; Beaumarchais , — and you are at the Bastille, i. e. the square where the celebrated prison stood. Whole length of this line of streets, 2f M. Return by the Rue St. Antoine, and the Rue de Rivoli, past the Tuileries, to the Place de la Concorde, whence you started. The exterior boulevards run from near the Arc de Triomphe, at the Ternes, around to the quays of Bercy on the Seine, through La Villette and Belle- ville, the workmen’s quarters. Tramways here. The Boulevards du Strasbourg, Sebastopol, Du Palais, and St. Michel form a continuous avenue from the Eastern Rly. stat. across the city to the Observatory. A walk from one end to the other is extremely interesting. The Boulevard Malesherbes runs from the Madeleine to the fortifications, and the Boulevard Haussmann from the Avenue de Eriedland to the Rue Taitbout. Morning walks on these avenues, and on the 12 streets radiating from the Arc de Triomphe, give an idea of New Paris. The Isle de la Cite on which Paris began, should have an early visit. Notre Dame, the cathedral of the Archbishop of Paris, was built in 1163-82, on the site of a 4th-century cli. It is 417 ft. long, 156 wide, and 110 high. Twin towers, 264 ft. The facade (13th century), with its rich Gothic sculptures and crowds of statuary over the portals, is very imposing. The carvings over the central entrance represent the Last 174 NOTRE DAME. — PALAIS DE JUSTICE. Judgment. Entrance by the 1. portal. In the Revolu- tion, in 1793, the ch. was converted into a “ Temple of Reason.” During the Commune it was a military depot. Most of the sculptures were broken at the time of the Revolution. Choir completed, 12th cen- tury ; W. portion, in 13th. The interior, with its nave and double aisles, is majestic. Many famous prelates are buried in the choir-chapels. 75 pillars support the vaulting. Splendid rose-windows in the transept. 37 chapels. Pine pulpit, by Viollet-le-Duc, in the nave. The Treasury (fee, \ fr.) may be inspected. The robe in which Archbishop Darboy was shot by the Com- munists is shown. To ascend the towers (fee, 20 c.), go round to N. side of 1. front tower, and ring the bell. In the S. tower is the huge Bourdon bell. Note the curiously carved figures of men and animals on the roof. The effect of the flying buttresses below is very strik- ing. See Victor Hugo’s Notre Dame de Paris, for an eloquent description of the cathedral. The view from the towers is the best in Paris. In a bright summer-day it is bewildering, from its very vastness. Just behind Notre Dame is the Morgue, or Dead House, where you may view unclaimed bodies. It is open to the public. Prom the cathedral’s top observe the new Hotel Dieu, an immense hospital ; the Fontaine Notre Dame, the Place du Parvis, and the Flower Market . The old Ho- tel Dieu (660) has been demolished. While you are in the Cite, go to see the Palais de Justice (magnificent new additions) ; and the prison of the Cohciergerie, where Marie Antoinette and so many other victims of the Revolution were imprisoned. The Palais de Justice is open daily, except Sundays ; and here most of the Courts of Justice may be visited (guide, 1-2 fr.). Tlie Cour cVHonneur is very fine. The great Salle des Pas-Perdus, 255 ft. long, is* where PARIS. 175 mystery-plays were performed. See Hugo’s Notre Dame. The Sainte Chapelle (open daily 12-4, except Mon. and Fri.) is a nobly beautiful specimen of Gothic (1245-4S). Note the magnificent stained glass filling the sides of the Upper Chapel. The Mass of the Holy Ghost is celebrated here once a year. Opposite the Palais de Justice is the Tribunal de Commerce , a beauti- ful Renaissance building, 1860-66 (open daily). Ob- serve the old Clock Tower of the Palais de Justice, one of the few remnants of the original edifice. See the Place Dauphine , and the equestrian Statue of Henri IV. near by. Good view of the Louvre from the Pont Neuf. Churches of Interest. — The Pantheon (1764- 90), on high ground, on the spot where Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris, was buried in 512. The Con- stituent Assembly made a Pantheon out of it ; and the Catholics did not regain their place of worship until 1851. Inscription still on the pediment : Aux grands homnies la patrie reconnaissante. Noble dome (272 ft.); ascend it for view. Interior decoration of dome, by Gros, fine. Portico of 22 Corinthian columns, 81 ft. high. Small fee for admission to crypts, where are the tombs of Voltaire, Rousseau, Lannes, Bougainville, and other noted men. St. Etienne du Mont (1517) near the Panthe- on, has some matchless stained glass of the 16th cen- tury. The Polytechnic School is in the rear. St. Ger- main P Auxerrois is opposite the Louvre front. From its belfry the signal for the massacre of St. Bartholomew was sounded. Note the oval arches of the porch (1435). Facade 15th and 16th centuries. Rich modern frescos and interesting chapels inside. St. Germain des Pres is on Rue Bonaparte ; built 1001-1163, as the ch. of a powerful abbey. Inside are admirable and extensive frescos by the celebrated Flandrin ; ancient monu- ments in choir and nave. St. Eustache is near the 176 THE MADELEINE. Halles Centrales (1532-1637) ; Gothic, with Grecian W. front. Interior beautifully decorated. Suffered much damage in the Commune, when it was used as a “ Club. 5 ’ Remarkable marbles. St. Roch, on Rue St. Honore. Exterior plain, interior rich ; famous music. Here Napoleon I. planted his cannon, and blew the French Revolution into space ; vide Carlyle. — Notre Dame de Lorette , Rue de Chateaudun, is the cli. that Thiers was buried from. The Trinite, Place of same name; new (1867), very elegant and rich. St. Vincent de Paul , Rue de Lafayette. — The brilliant new Russian Ch., near the Parc de Monceaux. Inter- esting service here. The Val de Grace , Rue St. Jacques, wonderfully decorated with paintings by Mignard. St. Sulpice, S. of the Seine, a vast and richly decorated ch., with towers 230 ft. high, and statues of Sts. Peter and Paul. La Sor bonne, adjoining the great university, contains the Tomb of Cardinal Richelieu. The Madeleine, the most beautiful edifice in Paris, is in the style of a Greek temple, 330 ft. long, 130 wide, and 100 high, surrounded by Corinthian columns. In the colonnade are niches containing figures of saints. Cou- ture contributed to the designs. The pediment, 120 X 25, represents the Last Judgment. The bronze doors are subjects from the Old Testament. On Grand Altar, the Assumption, in white marble; and painting of Magdalen at the feet of Christ. Elower-market on each side of the ch., Tues. and Eri. Very fine music, Sun. St. Augustin, Boulevard Malesherbes, contains many fine paintings. — The Chapelle Expiatoire, Rue d’Anjou, is to the memory of Louis XVI. and his Queen, and other victims of the Revolution. The new Ste. Clo tilde, Place Bellecliasse, and St. Pierre de Montmartre , are worth seeing. Notre Dame de Bonnes Nouvelles , on the summit of Montmartre, is a new church and one of the largest in Paris. PARIS. 177 The Palaces. — The best place from which to see the imposing lront of the Louvre is the park before St. Germain. The Colonnade Tvas constructed in 1685, on the E. facade. The central portion of this front is known as the Pavilion Henri Quatre. See statues of Napoleon I.’s generals on the Rohan Pavilion . The interior courtyard is an architectural marvel. See the 86 colossal statues of illustrious Frenchmen in the Square du Louvre. The entrance to the Museums, which are among the richest and most remarkable in Europe, is through a door on the 1., coming from the Cour du Louvre, under the Sully Pavilion, and through the Pavilion Benon, in the middle of the N. facade of the building erected by Napoleon III. Collections open, free, daily, except Mon., in summer, 9-5 ; in winter, 10-4. A few of the sculpture rooms and col- lections of antiquities are not opened until 1 p.m. Guides 2 fr. an hr., but the catalogues will enable most visitors to find their way about. The Venus of Milo , the Fettered Slaves of Michael Angelo, the Mona Lisa of Leonardo da Vinci, and a noble group of the works of Raphael, Titian, and Veronese are the chief treasures. In one gallery there are 21 large pictures by Rubens. The Salon Carre contains the most striking works of art. There are 2,000 paintings in the Louvre. See the Apollo Gallery (Henri IV.), with plafond by Delacroix. The Marine and Chinese Museums should not be omitted. The Palace of the Tuileries, begun in 1564 by Philibert de Lorme for Catherine de Medicis, has for 10 years or more lain in ruins. It was almost entirely destroyed during the Communal insurrection of 1871. The whole front was so utterly ruined that restoration was considered out of the question. The Pavilion de Flore and the Gallery on the Seine bank unite the Louvre with the 178 PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG. Tuileries. Fine sculptures by Cavelier and Carpeaux. The courtyard is the Place du Carrousel. It takes its name from a carousal, or ball, held there by Louis XIY. in 1662. The Triumphal Arch which stands here is an imitation of the Arch of Severus at Lome, and was erected by Napoleon I. to commemorate his victories of 1805-6. It was originally crowned with the horses Taken from the portal of St. Mark’s Ch. in Venice, but these were sent back to Italy by the Emperor Fran- cis in 1814. Bonaparte, when French Consul, lived i here ; and Louis XVIII., Charles X., Louis Phi- lippe, and Napoleon III. made it their home. Head Carlyle’s account of the attack on the Tuileries bv a mob of 40,000 rioters in 1792. In front is the Tuile- ries Garden, 2,340 ft. long, which extends to the Place de la Concorde, and in summer is a delightful resort thronged with people. Military music twice a week in summer. The Terrasse des Feuillants, on the N. side, is a pleasant promenade. The Palais du Luxembourg was built 1615-20, and enlarged in 1804. It was once a royal habitation, a prison during the Revolution, the palace of the Directory and the Consulate, and is now the meet- ing-place of the Senate of the Republic. Chapel and museum open daily (except Mon.), 10-4. The Little Luxembourg , supposed to have been built by Marie de Medicis, is near by. The collections were (until 1875) next in importance to the Louvre. The Luxembourg Museum was long the halting-place for pictures of dis- tinguished native artists. Galleries of paintings open daily (Mon. excepted), 9-5 in summer; Sun. and Fri., 10-4. In the garden, where military music is played on Sun., Tues., and Thurs. afternoons, there is a fine fountain, and statues of celebrated Frenchwomen. The Palais Royal is always interesting to strangers. PARIS. 179 It was built 1625-34 for Cardinal Richelieu. The famous galleries, which now form such a charming promenade, and are filled with attractive shops, were built by Philippe-Egalite. The Theatre of the Comedie Frangaise is attached to the palace. In the garden, military music in summer evenings. The Palais de l’Elysee, having fafades on the Faubourg St. Honore and the Champs Elysees, is at present the residence of the President of the Republic. It was built in 1718, and restored under Napoleon I. Fine old garden on the Champs-Elysees side. The Palais Bourbon, in which the Corps Legislatif held its sessions under Napoleon III., was built for the Duchess of Bourbon in 1722. Fine peristyle fronting on the Seine, with 12 Corinthian columns and flight of steps decorated with colossal statues. The Hotel dela Presidence is near by. The Palais d’Orsay was partly destroyed in May, 1871. The Palais de l’lndustrie stands in the centre of fine gardens on the 1. as you walk up the Champs Elysees. This immense structure was built in 1852- 55 by a company, and used for the first Universal Exhibition in Paris. It belongs to the government ; and most of the great fairs of competitive festivals, as well as the annual exhibition of modern paintings and sculptures, called the Salon , lasting from May to July, are held there. In the Avenue Montaigne is the Palais Pompeien , built for Prince Napoleon after the one of Diomed at Pompeii. Admission, 1-2 fr. The Palace of the Institute , on the site of the old Hotel de Nesle, was completed in 1662. It is an odd structure, with a Corinthian porch adorned with figures of lions and with fountains. During the Revolution it was a prison. The academy holds its sessions here. The annual meeting of the five departments 180 BOIS DE BOULOGNE. combined is held in Aug. in the Great Hall. 2 fine libraries. The Mazarine Library (200,000 vols.) is open to the public 10-4 (except Sun.). The Palais des Beaux- Arts, in the Hue Bonaparte, is the seat of the School of the Fine Arts, founded in 1648 (open daily, 10-4; fee, 1 fr.). On the railing which separates the court from the Hue Bonaparte are colossal busts of Puget and Poussin. Near the Inva- lides , in Hue de Grenelle, is the Archbishop' s Palace. The quaint mediaeval Hotel de Cluny (founded about 1500), Hue du Sommerard, contains about 4,000 objects in marble, wood, stone, ivory, enamels, terra- cotta, prints, stained glass, pottery, etc. (catalogue at the door). The old Palais des Thermes , whipli fronts on the Boulevard St. Michel, was built by Constantius Chlorus and by Julian the Apostate, who has left on record his predilection for spending part of his time in his “ dear Lutetia ” (open daily, 11-4.30). The Musee Municipal , at the Hotel Carnavalet, Hue Sevigne, can be visited with an order. A library of 45,000 vols., composed of works relative to the history of the city of Paris, is here. The interesting Artillery Museum is at the Hotel des Invalides (open Tues., Thurs., and Sun. in summer, 12-3). The Mint Museum , on the Quai Conti, may be visited Tues. and Pri. (12-3), by order. Parks and Gardens. — The Bois de Boulogne is the chief park of the French capital, and comprises a tract of about 2,250 acres, of which 70 are artificial lakes, just opposite the fortifications, and extending along the banks of the Seine. The Bois is connected with the Champs Elysees by several magnificent ave- nues ; and the principal one, the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne, is 4,200 ft. long and 315 ft. wide. The drive Around the Lake is the rendezvous of the fashion of the capital, in winter from 3 to 5 o’clock, and of PARIS. 181 strangers from all parts of the world in summer from 5 to 8 o’clock. The Cascade; the Field of Long champs y on which races and reviews are held ; the Jar dm d’ Acclimatation (zoological gardens) ; Model Dairy , Pre Catalan ; the Allee des Acacias , through the centre of this park ; the pretty suburbs of Passy and Auteuil; and the towns of Boulogne, Suresnes, and St. Cloud, — are the principal objects of interest. E. of Paris is the Bois de Vincennes, a vast woody tract, which furnishes a delightful breathing- place for the Parisians. The Chateau (open Sat., 12-4, by order from Commandant) was built in 1164, and is a strong fortress, containing barracks and arsenal, and a military school. There is a monument to the Due d’Enghien ; and from the Donjon , a square tower 190 ft. high, a fine view may be enjoyed. The chapel was founded in 1379. The Buttes Chaumont is a picturesque park of 55 acres, in the Belleville quarter. In the centre is an island bearing a reproduction of the Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli. Great battle near here on the 30th of May, 1814. The Parc de Monceauz maybe entered from the Hue de Courcelles. It covers 18 acres, and is surrounded by magnificent residences of wealthy Parisians. Great numbers of Communists were exe- cuted here at the close of the insurrection. The Champs-Elysees is a world-famous prome- nade. The illumination on the 14th of July (national fete) is a superb spectacle. Most of the Cafe-Concerts of importance have summer theatres here. The Jardin des Plantes, easily reached by omnibus or by river steamboat, is open daily from 10 till dark. The fine Menagerie is open daily in summer, 10-5 ; the Galleries , containing the collections, on Tues. and Sun. afternoons ; library daily, 10-3. botanic Garden here., one of the pleasantest promenades in the city. 182 JULY COLUMN. — ARC DE TRIOMPHE. The Place de la Concorde, one of the finest squares in the world, is a good starting-point for any excursion about Paris. In the centre is the Obelisk of Luxor, given to Louis Philippe by the Pasha of Egypt. It is 76 ft. high, and weighs 240 tons. On either side is a liandsome fountain. Arranged about the Place are 8 stone figures, representing the chief towns of Prance. On the statue of Strasbourg the visitor may generally observe a mourning wreath. The Germans bivouacked here in 1871. In 1792-99, 3,000 people perished here on the guillotine. Louis XVI. was executed near cen- tral gate of Tuileries garden. - — The Place de la Bastille has in its centre the July Column, 153 ft. high, with figure of Liberty. See Place du Chateau d’Eau, Place du Chatelet , Place Louvois, and Place Lauphine. On the Place du Pont St. Michel there is a fine fountain, with a bronze statue of Michael overcoming the Dragon. On the Place St. Georges stands the house in which Thiers lived during the latter years of his life. In the centre of the Place de VEtoile , at the top of the Champs- Elysees, stands the noble Arc de Triomphe de 1’Etoile, begun in 1806 by Napoleon I., and finished in Louis Philippe’s reign, at a cost of $2,000,000. The structure is 160 ft. high, 146 ft. wide, and 72 ft. deep. The vast arch is 67 ft. high and 46 ft. wide. On the sides are groups representing the Napoleonic campaigns. Names of nearly 150 battles appear on the vault. Spiral staircase of 261 steps to platform at top, whence a grand view. Erom the Triumphal Arch to the Porte Maillot runs the Avenue de la Grande Armee. In the Place Vendome is a column 140 ft. high, surmounted by a statue of Napoleon I., in costume of a Caesar. The column, pulled down by communists in 1871, was made of cannon taken from the Aus- trians. Notice curious heads over the houses round PARIS. 183 the Square. The Place Louvois , near the National Library ; the Place de la Bourse, where stands the Bourse, or Exchange (from a gallery in which visitors can notice the curious financial crush from 12 to 3) the Square Montholon, on the Hue Lafayette ; the Esplanade, in front of the Invalid.es ; the Champs de Mars, where three great exhibitions have been held, and where the celebrated Eiffel Tower (984 ft. in height) is located; the Trocadero Gardens, now crowned with a superb palace used for historical collections and for musical concerts ; the Place Clichy, at the head of the street of the same name ; and the Place de la Nation , should not be forgotten by the visitor. The Place de Greve, where the stake and the scaffold were erected so often in the 15th and 16th centuries, is now called the Place de r Hotel de Ville ; and directly in the rear of it is the new City Hall, a magnificent structure, erected on the ruins of the one burned to . the ground by the Communists, May 24, 1871. With the old .building, 1533-1628, a library of 100,000 vols. was consumed. The new Hotel de Ville is ornamented with hundreds of statues. The Place de la Roque tte is a gloomy square, in front of the prison to which criminals are transferred when they are sentenced to death. Many notorious exe cutions occurred on this Place. In th z Place des Victoires see the clumsy statue of Louis XIV. • the statues of Jeanne d’Arc, on the Hue de Rivoli, in the Place des Pyramides ; and that of Marshal Ney at the Observatory. The Porte St. Martin and the Porte St. Denis, on the Boulevard St. Denis, are triumphal arches, erected in 1674 and 1672 respectively, to commemorate the victories of Louis XIV. in Holland and on the Lower Rhine. The allied armies, when they entered Paris in 1814, passed through the Porte St. Martin, just as the German armies entered under the Arc de 184 THE PASSAGES OF PARIS. Triomphe in 1871. Near these 2 arches there were sanguinary conflicts in the insurrections of 1830, 1848, and 1871. One of the most formidable barricades, and one most fiercely defended by the Communists in 1871, was near the Porte St. Martin. On the Square St. Jacques , which occupies a portion of the site of the old Ch. of St. Jacques la Boucherie, is a beautiful tower (1508-22), 160 ft. high, all that now remains of the old church; statue of Pascal, by Cavelier, in a crown of the arch. Great number of other statues on the monument. The Square Monge contains a statue of Voltaire. See in the Square du Temple the group of lime-trees under which Louis XVI. used to sit when he was a prisoner. The Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers , opening on the Rue St. Martin, has a magnificent industrial school. Collections most extensive of their kind in Europe (open 10-4 ; Sun., Tues., Thurs., free; Mon., Eri., Sat., 1 fr.) ; articles are all labelled. See Refectory of the old abbey. The handsome Gothic Hall is now a library, 20,000 vols. (open to students, 10-3, 7.30-10 daily). The Fontaine de V Observatoire is ornamented with columns bearing vases, and statues of Morning, Noon, Evening, Night. See Fontaine Cuvier , in the Jardin des Plantes ; Fontaine Gaillon, in the Place of the same name ; Fontaine de Grenelle , one of the finest in the city; the Fontaine des Innocents , in Square of same name ; Fontaine Louis le Grand ; Fontaine Moliere , entrance to the Rue Moliere; Fontaine Richelieu , in the Rue de Richelieu ; Fontaine Notre Dame ; Fontaine St. Sulpice ; and the Fontaine de la Victoire . The Passages, or arcades, of Paris should not escape the stranger’s attention. The most noticeable are the Passages Jouffroy , des Panoramas , de V Opera, des Princes , on the grand boulevards ; the Choiseul, Rue des Petits Champs ; Passage Verdean , a continua- PARIS. 185 tion of the Jouffroy ; Passage du Saumon, in the Rue Montmartre; Passage Vivienne, from the Rue Vivienne; Passage du Havre , from the Rue Caumartin to the Rue St. Lazare. Beware of beggars and people who oiler their services in these arcades. The best shop- ping streets are the Rue de la Paix, Rue de la Chaus- seeaAntin, Avenue del’Opera, Rue Scribe, Boulevard Haussmann, Rue des Capucines, Rue Royale, Rue Auber, Boulevard St. Germain, and all the grand boulevards. The shops in the Avenue de l’Opera are usually reasonable in their prices, but those of the Rue de Rivoli are not. Cemeteries. — There are 14 within the walls. The most noticeable is Fere-la-Chaise. Here the Com- munists made their last stand, and from the hill-top bombarded the neighborhood of the Place de la Con- corde. See graves and tombs here of Heloise and Abelard ; Alfred de Musset ; the composers Bellini, Gretry, Boieldieu, Cherubini, Rossini, and Chopin; of Bernardin de St. Pierre, Talma the tragedian, Dupuy- tren, Beaumarchais, Manuel and Be ranger in the same tomb, Benjamin Constant, Racine, Moliere, Lafontaine, Balzac, Eugene Delacroix, Thiers, Marshal Ney ; Cle- ment Thomas and Le Comte, the first victims of the Commune ; and in the Jewish Cemetery (closed on Sat.) the tombs of Rachel and the Rothschilds. See Prison of La Roquette, in which the Archbishop and other hostages were executed by the Communists. # The Montmartre Cemetery has the graves of Hein- rich Heine, Cavaignac, Halevy, Theophile Gautier, Gozlan, Miirger, Horace Vernet, and Trovon. On the Boulevard Montrouge is the Montparnasse Cemetery. Visit the Picpus Cemetery, Rue Picpus, where are the tombs of Lafayette and many members of the old French nobility, victims of the Revolution. See at end of burial-ground the Cemetery of the Guillotined , where 186 HOTEL des invalides. 1,300 persons, executed at the Barriere du Trone, are buried. Fortifications. — Paris is surrounded with ramparts (cost, $28,000,000), with 94 bastions, and 21 M. long. They are 32 ft. high, with parapet 19 ft. wide, moat 48 ft. wide, and a glacis. Since the war of 1870-71 the system of fortifications has been greatly enlarged. The approaches to Paris are now commanded by 16 detached forts, none of them farther than 2 M. from the city. Mont Valerien is the most imposing and pic- turesque. Those near St. Denis and on the 1. bank of the Marne and Seine are best worth visiting. The Hotel des Invalides is S. of the Seine, in the S. W. portion of the city, and easily reached from the Place de la Concorde. It was founded in 1670 by Louis XIV. for the veterans of the army. There are at present about 500 inmates, although the build- ing was intended to accommodate 5,000. The dome of the Ch. of the Invalides , which can be seen from a long distance, was gilded in the time of Napoleon I. The fapade of the great edifice is 660 ft. long. In front of the wings are groups in bronze by Desjardins. Over the principal entrance stands an equestrian figure of Louis XIV. On the Esplanade is the “Triumphal Battery/ 5 used in firing salutes on great occasions. Most of the guns are trophies. See the Cour d’Hon- neur, painted with scenes from various Drench warlike epochs, the Refectories , Library , the Salle du Conseil, the Artillery Museum, and the Ch., in which is the Tomb of Napoleon I., directly beneath the dome (entrance to the dome Mon., Tues., Wed., and Pri., 12—3, free). Above the entrance to the crypt are inscribed the words from v he Emperor’s last will : “ I desire that my ashes may repose on the banks of the Seine, among that Prench people I have so PARIS. 187 well loved.” Note the bas-reliefs by Simart; colos- sal victories by Pradier ; the sarcophagus, which weighs 67 tons ; the decoration of the tomb ; and the monument of Yauban and Turenne. In a chapel on the 1. is the tomb of Jerome Bonaparte; on the r., the sarcophagus of Joseph Bonaparte, once King of Spain. The Hotel des Invalides is shown daily from 12-3, except Sun. (small fee). Walk hence to the Ecole Militaire , founded in 1751 by Louis XY. A noble building; admission by special order. A great number of executions of Communists here. Operas and Theatres. — The majority of the Paris theatres are closed in summer, but tourists will wish to visit the Grand Opera , or National Academy of Music , and the Theatre Franqais , which are open the year round. The new Opera House was built 1861-71, and is the largest theatre in the world, cov- ering nearly 3 acres, but seats less people (2,156) than La Scala or San Carlo in Italy. The fagade is exceedingly rich in statuary. On the r. notice the celebrated group of La Danse by Carpeaux. The 7 others represent music, lyric and idyllic poetry, declamation, song, drama, and lyric drama. Note the medallions and busts of composers. The grand stair- case of white marble, with balustrades of red antique marble and hand-rails of Algerian onyx, is the finest in Europe (see local guides for description). To gen- tlemen we recommend the Stalles de Parterre , 7 fr. ; to families, if economy be an object, the Troisiemes , 8 fr. Ladies not admitted to the orchestra stalls, except occasionally on Sat. The Amphitheatre is the choice part of the house. All this quarter of Paris is illumi- nated by electricity. At the other end of the Avenue de l’Opera is the Theatre Frangais, the rank of which is well known. Pounded in 1600, it was under 188 OPERAS AND THEATRES. Moliere’s superintendence until his death. The lobby contains statues of Voltaire, George Sand, and other celebrities (good seats here, 7-10 fr.). Paris is the home of genteel comedy ; and the theatres where it can be best seen are the Frangais , the Vaudeville, and the Gymnase . For light opera go to the Opera Comique (good seats, 7-12 fr.). The Odeon ranks next to* the Frangais, and there, as at the leading theatre, classical drama is often produced. For opera bouffe go to the Renaissance , the Bouffes Parisiens, or the Folies Dramatiques. The Varietes has a specialty of broad vaudevilles and comedies. The Palais Royal is the recognized temple of broad comedy and of those light buffooneries played nowhere so well as in Paris. The Gaite , the Ghatelet , the de V Eden, the Ambigu- Comique, and the Porte St. Martin are mainly devoted to spec- tacles, fairy pieces, and ballets. For other theatres (too numerous too mention ; Paris has more than 50) see daily papers or the English papers. There are several Circus buildings, and an immense and splendid Hippodrome. The Conservatoire du Musique , now pre- sided over by Ambroise Thomas, is in the Rue du Faubourg Poissonniere. Concerts of Lamoureaux and Colonne Sunday afternoons in winter, generally at the Theatre du CMtelet and Champs Etysees Cir- cus. Bullier , the students’ ball in the Latin Quarter, is open all summer. Masked balls in winter only. Those who are fond of horse-racing can see plenty of it in the Bois, at Auteuil, and Longcliamps, and at Chantilly between Feb. and July. The Gobelins, or government manufactory of tap- estry, 40 Avenue des Gobelins, was nearly destroyed in 1871, but still merits a visit. The reputation of the Gobelins tapestry is well known. Workshops open on Wed. and Sat., "2-4 ; catalogue, £ fr. The National PARIS. 189 Printing-Office, the Sor bonne, and the College de France, not far from the Cluny Museum ; the Ecole de Medecine, with the Musee Bupuytren and that of Comparative Anatomy ; lyceums or schools in various quarters; Ar- chives , just N. of the Hotel de Ville (visitors, 10-3) ; the National Library (2,000,000 vols.) in the Rue de Richelieu (see local guides) ; the beautiful St. Genevieve Library (120,000 vols. and 35,000 MSS.), Place du Pantheon; the Halles Centrales, vast pavilions cov- ering many acres, reached from the Rue Montmartre or Boulevard Sebastopol, should be visited between 6 and 8 a. m., when the marketing is most active. The Bourse de Commerce , in the Rue du Louvre, replaces the old wheat exchange called the Halle au Ble. The Halle aux Fins, or the wine depot of the city, is next the Jardin des Plantes ; 20 million gallons can be stored there. The Abattoirs, or slaughter-houses, cover 67 acres, and 1,000 persons are employed there. The Hospitals of the Hotel Bleu ; Beaujon, Fau- bourg St. Honore ; La Char it e, Rue Jacob ; La Pitie, Rue Lacepede ; Lariboisiere, near the N. Rly. stat. ; St. Louis, Rue Bichat ; Du Midi, Rue des Capucines ; Be Lourcine, street of same name ; Des Cliniques, Place de l’Ecole de Medecine ; Des L?icurables, at Ivry, — may geuerally be visited without difficulty. For descrip- tions of the great Asylums, of the Mont de Piete, of the Prisons (historical ones mentioned elsewhere), and of the minor military establishments, see local guides. An excursion through the Sewers, from the Bastille to the Place de la Concorde, in boats and wagons, may be made twice a month in summer. The Catacombs, which contain the bones of most of the victims of the Revolution, and of nearly 6,000,000 of other dead, may be occasionally visited with permission. Along the Seine. — A good idea of the Seine, 190 ALONG THE SEINE. and the buildings along its banks, may be bad 'by walk- ing from the Quai de Bercy to the Quai de la Alegissene , which finishes at the Font Neuf ; and farther along, the Quais du Louvre , des Tuileries , de la Conference, and de Billy , to Passy and Auteuil. But a better w T ay is to take a steamer from Charenton to Auteuil, then change for Suresnes. Of the 27 bridges the most noticeable are the Pont d’Austerlitz, which has 5 stone arches, is 390 ft. long, and has the names of the principal officers killed in the celebrated battle inscribed on the ornaments of the bridge. It was built in 1808, and rebuilt in 1858. The Pont Neuf was begun in 1578, and completed in 1624. Upon it stands an equestrian statue of Henry 1Y. The Font des Arts was built for pedestrians only. The Pont du Car- rousel has 4 colossal stone statues, those on t he 1. bank representing Abundance and Industry, and on the r. the Seine and the City of Paris. The Font Royal was built in 1668. Just below is the pier for the steam- ers which run to St. Cloud and Suresnes. Farther down the Seine are the Font de Solfc rino, 155 yards long, with the names of the principal French victories in the campaign of 1859 inscribed upon the cornices ; the Font de la Concorde , opposite the Palais Bourbon ; the Font des Invalid.es y which has statues representing victory by land and victory by sea; the Font deV Alma, with statues between the arches representing different t} r pes of French soldiers ; the Font (Plena , built 1 806- 13, opposite the Champ de Mars, with colossal statues of men and horses ; and the great bridge at the Point du Jour, or Auteuil, a superb viaduct, 570 ft. long. The Quais Conti, Malaquais, and Voltaire, prin- cipally occupied by sellers of second-hand books ; the wharves at Bercy , laden with wood and wine ; the wine port, near the Quai St. Bernard ; the fruit port, near VERSAILLES. 191 the Q.uai de la Greve ; and the Pont de Grenelle , where vast quantities of -stone, wood, and coal are disem- barked, — are all worth notice. In summer there is no better way of seeing a great portion of Paris than by travelling up and down the river on small steamers. Below Auteuil the Seine makes a wide sweep round to Bas Meudon , Boulogne , and along the banks of the Bois de Boulogne to Suresnes. Excursions near Paris. V ersailles ( Hotel des Reservoirs , where the German princes dwelt during the siege of Paris) is reached by half-hourly trains from St. Lazare or Mont-Parnasse stat. (11^-12| M. ; return-fares, 3 fr. 30 c., 2fr. 70 c.); or by tramway from the Louvre (10 M.) ; or by carriage, through the Bois de Boulogne, the Park of St. Cloud, and Ville d’Avray. Versailles is a sleepy old town of 61,000 inhab., which has grown up around the palace that Louis XIV. built on an isolated plateau between low, forest-covered hills, at a cost of $200,000,000. The palace overlooks the town . See Hotel de Ville ; the Palais de Justice ; the Library (60,000 vols.) ; the Salle du Jeu de Paume, the cradle of the French Revolution ; the Statue of Horace Fernet ; and the Theatre, restored in 1850; the Place Hoche, with the statue of the General ; and the Cathedral of St. Louis. The courtyard contains many statues, among which are those of Bayard, Colbert, Massena, and Tu- renne, and an equestrian bronze statue of Louis XIY. In 1661 Louis XIV. formed his great scheme of a palace and park ; and Levan and Mansard erected the buildings, while Le Notre laid out and decorated the gardens. The palace has not been inhabited since 1789 ; and in the reign of Louis Philippe it was com 192 VERSAILLES, verted into a museum, devoted, as the inscription shows, “ To all the Glories of Trance . ” The Chapel is gorgeously decorated (1696-1710). The Museum is open daily, 12-4 (except Mon.). The entrance is at the 1. in the Marble Courtyard. Notice the Marble Staircase , leading to the first story ; and the Queen's Staircase , to the second. The Museum is vast, and its magnificent halls are crowded with statues and por- traits of the generals, admirals, and sovereigns of France, and with hundreds of pictures of her battles in all four continents, painted by V ernet, Scheffer, Delacroix, Regnault, etc., forming an unrivalled panorama of mili- tary glory. 33 grand battle-pictures in Galerie des Batailles , a hall 396 X 52 ft. in area. In the Salle du Sacre is the great picture of the “ Consecration of Napoleon/ 5 by David ; also, Gros’s famous painting, “ The Battle of Aboukir. 55 The Grande Galerie des Glaces is the most notable hall, 240 X 35 ft. in area, adorned with Le Brun’s paintings (1679-83), and over- looking the gardens. The Bedroom of Louis XIV., the Salle des Gardes , the King's Antechamber , the Council Hall , the Salle de la Guerre ; and, on the ground floor, the Halls of the Marshals , of the Kings of France (67 portraits, from Clovis to Napoleon III.), and of the Royal Reside?ices , — are especially worth visiting. The Sculpture Galleries are extremely inter- esting. In the Queen' s Chamber the 3 queens, Marie Therese, Marie Leczinska, and Marie Antoinette, have lodged. Catalogues, giving description of all the rooms, for sale at palace. Fine view of the Grand Canal and the Basin of Apollo from the steps in front of the palace. The fountains play afternoons on Sun. (gen- erally announced in the Paris papers). The chief cu- riosities of the gardens are the Orangery (1685); the Parterres du Midi and du Nord ; the Piece d'Eau des ST. CLOUD. 193 Suisses ; the Neptune Fountain ; the two fountains near the Orangery ; the Latona Burnt ; and the Grande At- lee du Tapis Vert. The Grand Canal is 4,674 ft. long, and about 186 ft. wide. It was here that Louis XIV. gave his Venetian festivals, famous in history. Th ; Grand Trianon , a horseshoe-sliaped villa, built by Louis XIV. for Madame Maintenon, is open daily (12-4). Richly furnished rooms, in which Bazaine was tried. The gardens of the Petit Trianon are alsoi open daily. Notice the curious display of old state- coaches used by the sovereigns of France, in a coach- house near the Grand Trianon. When the Grandes Eaux play, rly. tickets from Paris cost 2 fr, fr. St. Cloud (Restaurants : Belvedere ; de la Gave) is visited from St. Lazare (1 fr. 60 c., 1 fr. 10 c.) ; or by steamer, which is preferable in warm weather. From the bridge over the Seine turn to the 1., and walk through the Park to the Great Cascade. Then turn up to the ruined Palace (built in 1572), mainly de- stroyed by French shells, thrown into the wood to dis- lodge the Germans. This w&s a favorite residence of Napoleon III. (One-horse carriages per hr., 3 fr ) Many ruined buildings in the towm, remains of the conflagration started by the Germans. Beautiful new ch. in the 12th-century style, with a lofty stone spire. New Hotel de Ville , near by. Magnificent outlook over Paris from the hill above the stat. The Palace was inhabited by most of the French sovereigns, from 1785. The rly. from Paris to Versailles runs through the beautiful park, which is ornamented with statues, foun- tains, and lakes. See the Trocadero Garden , N. of the ! palace ; the Pavilion de Breteuil ; and the great water- jet, to the 1. of the Cascade, The Park of Montretont, j near the rly., Tvas the scene of a desperate fight, in the sortie made by the French, Jan. 19, 1871, in which they lost 3,000 men. Monument here to the slain. 194 SEVRES. — ST. GERMAIN. — RUEIL. Sevres is easily reached from St. Cloud. Here is the noted porcelain factory. Exhibition room of the Ceramic Museum open daily, 12-5 ; strangers admitted without cards. The Workshops may be inspected Mon., Thurs., and Sat., 12-5 (get cards at 3 Hue de Valois, Paris). Ply. from Paris to Bellevue , 5 min. walk from the factory. St. Germain-en-Laye. This is one of the most beautiful excursions near Paris (fares, lfr. 65 c., 1 fr. 35 c.). The principal sights are the Pavilion Henri Quatre , in which Louis XIY. was born, and Thiers died; the magnificent Terrace on the border of the forest of St. Germain ; and the gloomy old Chateau , where James II. of England lived after the Revolution of 1688. In the Ch. is a Mausoleum , erected by George IY. to the memory of James. The Porest of St. Ger- main , one of the largest near Paris (9,000 acres), is full of charming walks, and a day or two may well be spent in this lofty and healthy old town. The Museum of National Antiquities is in the chateau (open Sun., Tues., and Thurs., 11-5). The Terrace , constructed by Le Notre in 1672, is 1\ M. long, with superb view. Erom St. Germain to Versailles is a pleasant walk. Rueil (fares, 95 c., 65 c.) is 8f M. from St. Lazare stat. In its Ch. are monuments to Empress Josephine and Queen Hortense. Malmaison (tramway from Rueil, 2 M.) was the favorite home of Napoleon, and there Josephine died in 1814. Not far away is the Chateau of Buzenval , near which the artist, Henri Regnault, was killed in the fight of Jan. 19, 1871. About 2^ M. from Rueil is Bougival, a resort of celebrated painters. See the Restaurant , with walls decorated with land- scapes by Corot, Eranfais, etc. Erom thence go to Louveciennes, a lovely village, with a 15th-century ch. It is but 7-8 min. walk thence to PoiHrj. On the ST, DENIS. — ENGHIEN. 195 hill is Marly-le-Roi, where stood a beautiful palace built by Louis XIV., and destroyed during the Revo- lution. Victorien Sardou lives here. To the W. is Monte Cristo , in which Dumas the Elder lived so long. St. Denis is 4 M. from Paris (return-fares, 1 fr, 30 c., 85 c., 70 c.). Chapel begun here, a.d. 275, in honor of St. Denis, who had his head cut off on Montmartre, and who is said to have taken it on his arm and walked off across the fields. Dagobert built the ch., which was the nucleus of the one begun by Pepin, finished by Charlemagne in 77 5, and demol- ished and a larger one built on its ruins 400 years later. During the Revolution the ch. was pillaged. It was restored by Viollet-le-Duc. Beautiful monuments and statues here. Here Charlemagne was anointed ; the Oriflamme was kept ; Abelard dwelt ; Joan of Arc hung up her arms ; Henri I. abjured Protestant- ism ; and Napoleon I. was married to Marie Louise. The bones of the Kings of Prance from Dagobert (630) to Louis XV. (1774) were buried here; and the mad Revolutionists tore them from their tombs, and buried them in a common ditch. They are now in the crypt, and the superb royal monuments adorn the ch., whose interior is 354 ft. long and 129 ft. wide, lighted by splendid stained windows, and en- riched with mosaics and statuary. Enghien and Montmorency are on the N. Rlv. Enghien is noted for sulphur baths ; and at Mont- morency is the Hermitage which Rousseau inhabited, and where he began La Nouoelle Heloise. Robespierre and Gretry also lived here. — Chantilly and Compiegne (fares to Chantilly, 5 fr. 5 c., 3 fr. 75 c., 2 fr. 80 c.; to Compiegne, 10 fr. 30 c., 7 fr. 35 c., 3 fr. 65 c.). Chan- tilly was the Versailles of the Princes of Conde, and was beautified by them from the 13th century until the 196 OOMPIEGNE. — FONTAINEBLEAU. • Revolution. It lias 2 fine chateaux (described bj Madame de Sevigne), and a famous forest of 10 square M. Spring and autumn races here. Compiegne has always been a royal residence. Napoleon 1. was fond] of it, and Napoleon III. entertained there with great} magnificence. The Gtalerie des Fetes is superb. The Library was the favorite work-place of Napoleon III. The Compiegne Forest is 59 M. around. From Com- piegne to Pierrefonds, excursion by omnibus through the forest, 9 M. Grand feudal fortress, built in 1400, and restored by Viollet-le-Duc, with 8 huge towers and a donjon, on a rocky height over Pierrefonds. Hotel des Ruines, near by. Ermenonville (return-tickets, 7 fr. 90 c., 5 fr. 90 c., 4 fr. 95 c. ; Le Bourget , where there were many fights in 1870-71, is on this route) is the beautiful retreat where Rousseau died, in 1778. Celebrated Park just beyond, at Mortefontaine. — Trains run to Fontainebleau ( Hotel de France et F Angleterrc ; Be la Ville de Lyon ; Be Londres ; Be l’ Europe) from the Gare de Lyons (return-tickets, 9 fr., 6 fr. 80 c., 4 fr. 95 c.). On the road is Charenton , with its celebrated lunatic asylum and fortress ; Alfort y where there is a horse and dog hospital ; Montmesly and Melun y with two handsome old chs. and a Gothic town-hall. From stat., omnibus (1| M. ; 30-50 c.) to the Chateau (open daily, 12-4). This stately palace was built by Francis I., on the site of Louis Yll.’s castle ; and here Conde died, the Edict of Nantes was revoked, Louis XIII. was born, Josephine was di- vorced, Napoleon signed his abdication, Pius VII. was imprisoned, and Napoleon III. was baptized. It is crowded with rich frescos and paintings, Gobe- lins tapestries, and antique furnishings. See the bou- doir of Marie Antoinette, the bedrooms of Anne of Austria and Catherine de Medicis, and the splendid SCEAUX. — MEUDON. — ORLEANS. 197 Salle des Fetes. This was a favorite abode of the .Empress Eugenie and her son. The Forest, dear to artists, and one of the most beautiful in the world,, must be seen. It is 50 M. around, with many fine gorges, crags, and heaths, and has 12,400 M. of roads and pathways. On the borders are many charming villages inhabited mainly by artists ; and the lovers of Millet will visit Barbizon. Sceaux (return-fares, 2 fr. 20c., 1 fr. 40c., 1 fr. 10c.) is a beautiful hill-town, with a delicious Park and the Chateau where Colbert once lived and Voltaire wrote several of his famous tragedies. Chatilloi* was the scene of many combats during the siege. Meudon is reached from the Tuileries by boat every. 15 minutes. In the Chateau, built in 1695 and burned by the Germans in 1871, the Empress Marie Louise and Prince Napoleon lived. This was also the parish of Rabelais. Fine view from Terrace (where the Prussians had a 26-gun battery) ; noble trees. The walk through Meudon to Versailles is charming. To Orleans , Blois, and Tours (fares to Tours, 28 fr. 80 c., 21 fr. 60 c., 15 fr. 80 c. ; 145J M.). Orleans {Hotel d’ Orleans ; Be Loiret ), founded by the Romans, on the Loire, contains a noble Flamboyant Cathedral , the only Gothic cathedral built in Europe since the Middle Ages. It has a grand interior, wfith double aisles; and 2 towers, each 280 ft. high. See the statue of Jeanne d’Arc made by the Princess Marie/ the local Museum, and the fine and curious old Mairie. Orleans was the capital of the first Kingdom of Bur- gundy. The forest of Orleans is one of the largest in the country. The Germans took the city in 1870. Blois ( Hotel d' Angleterre) has a stately old Castle , for centuries a residence of kings and queens. Fine old houses in the town. 12 M. (2 hrs.*); hence, by 198 AMBOISE. — TOURS. — DIJON. omnibus, is the grand, many-towered, and historic Castle of Chambord, built by Francis I. and still in the Bourbon family. From Onzain stat. it is 1 M. to the Chateau de Chaumont, a high-towered hill-fortress, where Catherine de Medicis lived ; Car- dinal d’ Amboise was born ; the Prince de Conde was imprisoned ; and Voltaire wrote La Pucelle. 11 M. beyond is Amboise, with its famous Castle, perched 'on a lofty crag, and dating from 1170. In the gardens is an exquisite Gothic chapel, with marvellous stone- carving. 10 M. S. is the castle of Chenonceaux, built by Francis I., inhabited by Diana de Poi- tiers and Louise of Lorraine, and the favorite resort of Voltaire, Rousseau, Bolingbroke, etc. It is still in perfect order, and elegantly furnished. At Tours { Hotel de V Uni vers, near the stat.), in Touraine, on the Loire, the best French is spoken. See Gothic Cathe- dral , founded in 1170 ; Episcopal Palace ; many famous schools ; a Museum with 200 paintings ; a fine Public Library ; and two ancient towers (relics of the old Cathedral), beneath one of which the wife of Charle- magne was buried. Many American and English families reside here. See Plessis les Tours , the home, of Louis XI. For other excursions from Paris see local guides. Routes from Paris to Switzerland. Our itinerary leads to Germany, before entering Swit- zerland. From Paris to Genera, by Dijon and Macon. — In 15 hrs., by express train (distance, 388£ M. ; fares, 76 fr. 75 c., 57 fr. 55 c., 42 fr. 20 c.). Many people stop at Macon over night. Dijon ( Hotel du Jura , near the stat.), with 60,000 iuliab., is in the wine-growing dis- MACON. — BELFORT. — RHEIMS. 1 9b tnct. See the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, now a town-hall, with very interesting museum ; the Castle y built by Louis XI. ; the Burgundian- Gothic Ch. of Notre Dame, (built 1220-30), with a curious clock. Macon ( Hotel de T Europe) is an important rly. junction (good buffet). Bine views of the Jura Mts. from the train. At Amberieu you begin to climb the mts. Junction at Culoz for Aix-les-Bains , Chambery , and Turin. Near here some fine viaducts, and the Fort de VEcluse , the key to the Rhone valley. From this point you traverse a picturesque mt. country to Geneva. From Paris to Switzerland , via Pontarlier (fares* from Paris to Berne , 68 fr. 15 c., 50 fr. 85 c., 37 fr. 25 c.). Same route as previous one to Dijon. From Pontarlier the route leads up through the mts. to Berne ; the scenery is wildly beautiful. A branch leads from Pontarlier to Lausanne (fares from Paris, 67 fr., 47 fr. 80 c, 35 fr.). From Paris to Basle , by Troyes , Chaumont, Vesoul , and Belfort, the fortress which made a heroic resistance in 1870, and thence either through Alsace, touching .at Mulhouse, or by Belle to Basle. From Paris to Basle , via Nancy , Strasbourg , and Mulhouse (fare, 75 fr. 60 c.). The interesting towns on this route are Meaux {Hotel des 3 Rois), 25 M. from Paris, in a lovely situation on the Marne. Superb Gothic Cathedral of St. Etienne , with Monuments of Bossuet (who was Bishop of Meaux) and Philip of Castille. Chateau Thierry was the birthplace of La- fontaine. From Epernay branch (fare, 3fr. 70 c.) to Rheims {Hotel Lion d’ Or), an old city of 98,000 inhab. In its cathedral most of the kings of France have been crowned. See magnificent Gothic Abbey Ch. of St. Remi , founded by Clovis in the 6th century ; and the Cathedral , built 1212-1430, and one of the grandest 200 SEDAN. — TOUL. — NANCY. — THE VOSGES. in Europe. It is 466 ft. long and 124 ft. high ; filled with beautiful statues and monuments. Splendid rose- windows and interesting Treasury. Charles VII. was crowned here ; J oan of Arc standing by his side. The Hotel de Ville contains a fine public library. Ely. to Sedan {Hotel de la Croix d’Or ), where MacMahon’s army of 80,000 men surrendered. Beyond Epernay on the main line is Chctlons-sur- Marne ; and Bar-le-Duc ( Hotel du Cygne'). Statues of Marshal Oudinotand Gen. Excelmans ; monument of the Prince of Orange. Toul, on the Moselle, is a for- tress which was besieged in 1870. Nancy ( Hotel de France), the old capital of Lorraine, and the prettiest town in France, with a large Cathedral, an inter- esting Museum (in the Hotel de Ville), a splendid new Prefecture,- and a fine specimen of Flamboyant Gothic in the Palace of the Lukes of Lorraine. Notre Lame de Bon-Secours contains the Tomb of Stanislas, cx-King of Poland, who lived in Nancy after abdicat- ing his throne in 1735. See triumphal arch; two fountains; and Statues of Thiers, Callot , Lrouot, and Stanislas. Near the gate of St. Jean is the Cross of the Luke of Burgundy, close to which was found the body of Charles the Bold, after the celebrated battle (1477). Beyond Nancy you pass through the Vosges Mts., and down to Strasbourg . ST. QUENTIN — MONS. — VALENCIENNES. 201 E now invite your attention to the route from Paris to Brussels and other sections of Belgium, our advice being that it is well to see portions of Bel- gium, Holland, and Germany before visiting Switzerland and Italy. The most direct route from Paris to Brussels is from the Gare du Nord, via Tergnier , Maubeuge , and Mons (time, 6-| hrs. ; fares, 36 fr. 20 c., 27 fr. 20 c., 18 fr. 90 c.) . You pass through St. Denis ; Chantilly ; Creil ; Compiegne ; St. Quentin, an important manu- facturing centre, with a noble ch. as well as a magnifi- cent City Hall of the 14tli and 15th centuries ; through the valley of the Sambre to Maubeuge and thence to Feignies, the French frontier. Mons ( Hotel Couronne) had a castle built by Julius Csesar. It is the centre of a great coal-mining country. Splendid interior of the Cathedral of St. Waudru (1450-1589) and Hotel de Ville (1458). Belfry built in 1662 by the Spaniards. At Malplaquet , 3 M. S. E., Marlborough defeated the French in 1700, and lost 20,000 men. Between Mons and Brussels is Hal, with the elegant 14th-century Notre Dame, still a place for pious pilgrimages. Before reach- ing Brussels you can see Ste. Gudule’s towers. j Another route from Paris to Brussels traverses Amiens, Arras, Douai, and Mons (fares, 39 fr. 25 c., 29 fr. 45 c., 20 fr. 55 c.). Douai ( Hotel de Flandre) is an important place de guerre , and has an interesting mu- seum and town-hall. Valenciennes is also a strong old fortress and a great manufacturing town. Here is a statue of Froissart, the chronicler, born in Valen- ciennes. From thence to Mons you pass through a BELGIUM. 202 LILLE. — NAMUR. — LIEGE. fertile and populous country, by Jemmapes, where the French won a great victory over the Austrians in 1792. There is also a direct route from Paris to Ghent by Lille, Roubaix, and Courtrai (9 hrs. ; fares, 37 fr. 70 c., 28 fr. 25 c.). Lille ( Hotel de l' Europe), a manufactur- ing town of 188,000 inhab., is a first-class fortress on the river Leule. St. Catherine's Ch. has an altar-piece by Rubens. In the Wicar Museum is a precious col- lection of drawings by the Italian masters. In the great square is a column commemorative of the Aus- trian siege of 1792. Statue of Gen. Negrier, killed at Paris in 1848. Roubaix, 5 M. beyond, is a great woollen and cotton working town of 83,000 inhab. ; production $40,000,000 yearly. Tourcoing, the French frontier, is a factory -town. From London one may go . via Calais to Brussels by Lille and Tournai (fares from Calais, 21 fr. 30 c., 15 fr. 95 c., 11 fr. 40 c.). Leaving London at 8.05 p.m. you reach Brussels at 6 a.m. (fares, £2 11 s., £1 18 s.) From Paris to Liege , via Charleroi , is 228^ M. (ex- press in 8 hrs. ; fares, 42 fr. 40 c., 31 fr. 90 c., 21 fr. 35 c.). This is also the route fyom Paris to Cologne (fares from Paris, 59 fr. 35 c., 44 fr. 20 c.). Charle- roi is a modern town, an industrial centre of Belgium. The environs are fine. 46,000 workmen employed in coal-mining. The line crosses the Sambre 13 times on the way to Namur, a pretty Flemish fortified town, of Roman origin, with a vast old citadel, on the Meuse. It has several spacious squares, and a Renaissance Cathedral. Namur has sustained several celebrated sieges, — among others that of 1692, commanded by Louis XI Y. in person. Archaeological Museum worth visiting. From Namur you may go to Luxembourg . Lifcge ( Hotel d\ Angleterre; Be V Europe ; Be Suede), BELGIUM. 203 the Flemish Luick and German Luttich , has 140,000 inliab., and' is very picturesquely situated on the Meuse. See Quentin Durward for a recit al of the most striking events in its history. This town, “ the Shef- field of Belgium,” is noted for its weapon-factories, and one quarter is given up to workshops. The Chs. of St. Jacques, St. Paul , St. Martin , St. Croix (10th century), St. Bartlielemy , as well as the Cathedral St. Paul , should be seen. The Choir of the cathedral dates from the 13th century. The splendid Gothic Palais de Justice (described in Quentin Durward ) was the palace of the prince-bishops, built in 1508-40 by Cardinal de la Marck, a relative of the “ Wild Boar of the Ardennes.” See Archeological Museum ; Hotel deVille; University (library, 100,000 vols.) ; the Com- munal Museum ; the Citadel , with grand views; the Royal Cannon-foundry . Liege is the capital of the Walloons, and the environs have beautiful scenery. The route to Cologne traverses a picturesque region to Verviers (1 5| M.), a modern city of woollen-factories ; thence to Aix-la-Chapelle. From Liege you may visit Spa. On the way is Chaudfontaine ( Hotel des Bains; D' Angleterre), a famous watering-place. The waters (used in baths) are beneficial in nervous diseases. 8 M. beyond is Pepinster , whence runs a branch line (J hr.) to Spa [Hotel de Bland re ; H Orange ; De York ; Des Pays Bas ; Grand Hotel B vita unique ; Casino, Hue Royale), one of the oldest of European watering-places. The climate is remarkably fine, although exposed to sudden variations, dangerous for consumptives. The waters are tonic (iron). 3-4 glasses should be taken daily, and the cure demands 6-8 weeks. Season, May 15-Oct. 15. 20,000 visitors come here annually. The village (6,000 inliab.) is in a pretty glen, among wooded hills and scenery famous for beauty. 204 LUXEMBOURG, — BRUSSELS. From Namur you may go to Luxembourg and Treves, and thence make a delightful excursion down the Mo- selle by steamboat to Coblence. You may also go from Liege (109f M. in 5-6 hrs.) to Luxembourg. Luxembourg, the famous fortress, the capital of the grand duchy, was made a neutral state by the Treaty of London in 1867. It is very picturesquely situated on a rocky plateau, with precipices on 3 sides. The Alzette valley is divided by a fortified rock called the Bock , on which is the ancient Melusina Tower. See Cathedral , Hotel de Ville , Archaeological Museum. Elys, hence to Treves or Metz, by Thionville. Brussels and Environs. Brussels {Hotel Bellevue ; Be Flandre ; Be France ; Be V Fur ope; Be Saxe; Be Bruxelles ), the capital ©f Belgium, has (including suburbs) 400,000 inhab. To appreciate Brussels, read the histories of the old town, — the terrible period of the Spanish domina- tion, the riots and bombardments in the 17th century, the annexation to France, and the union with and secession from the Low Countries. Brussels stands on an undulating plain. It is divided into the Upper and Lower Towns. On the hill are the palaces, the Park, and the fine Rue Royale. Below, in the picturesque older portion, are the commercial classes. Brussels is on the line between the Walloons and Flemings; and you will hear French and Flemish spoken, the former prevailing. Go first to the Grande Place, the ancient forum of Brussels. Note the exquisite fa£ade of the Hotel de Ville (built 1402-43), and the stately spire, 370 ft. high, at whose top is a colossal statue of St. Michael. Entrance fee, 50 c. Beautiful tapes- Lries and paintings in the Salle des Fetes , etc. Opposite BELGIUM. 205 is the Mahon du Roi, built by Charles Y. (1514-25). There were imprisoned Counts Egmont and Hoorne, and in front they were decapitated, in 1568. Many of the picturesque houses on the Place were built by the Guilds, as meeting-places. Tournaments were held here in the 15th century. The famous Mannikin foun- tain is back of the Hotel de Ville. The Galerie St. Hu- bert is one of the finest arcades in Europe. In the steep Rue Montagne de la Cour are the finest shops. At the top is the Place Roy ah. Go first to the Museum (Place du Musee). On the 1. is the great Palais de V Indus- trie, with statue of Prince Charles of Lorraine. The Museum of Painting (open 10-5 in summer) contains 13 canvases by Rubens; many Van Dycks, Holbeins, and Rembrandts. The Ancient Museum is rich in tap- estries. In the Modern Museum there are many good pictures. Next take the Rue de la Regence, ending at- the new Palais de Justice , which covers more ground than St. Peter’s at Rome, and cost $8,400,000. Vast dome. Near by is the Palais des Beaux- Arts, with fine statues and groups ; the Palace of the Comte de Flandres ; the Place du Petit Sablon, with monuments to Counts Egmont and Hoorne ; the Royal Conservatory of Music ; and the Synagogue. Next, going by the Rue Royale, visit the Park, a lovely promenade (mili- tary music, 3-4 tt, in summer) ; then to the King's Palace , — simple, but well stocked with fine pictures. When the flag is up, the King is there. When he is not, strangers are admitted (2 fr.) Ministries in elegant buildings near the Park. The Palais des Acade- mies is near the Park. This building, in Italian style, contains the Plaster Museum (free, 10-4) ; the Acade- mies of letters, arts and sciences, and medicine ; and 206 STE. GUDULE. — WATERLOO. a noble concert hall, with paintings of episodes in Belgian history. Ste. Gudule, the great Gothic Church (open, ex- cept from 12-4, week days : to climb the towers, 1 per- son, 2 fr. ; 2-6 persons, 3 fr.), was founded in tlm 11th century ; choir and transept, 13th century ; towers and nave, 14th. The carved pulpit, made in 1699, repre- sents the Expulsion from Paradise. Superb stained- glass windows ; and many rare old tombs. Other Objects of Interest. — Place des Martyrs , with monument to those who perished in the Revolution of 1830 ; Place des Barricades , and statue of Vesalius, the anatomist ; Place du Luxembourg , statue of Cocke- rill ; Place de la Monnaie, and Opera House ; Bourse ; Rue Neuve ; handsome new boulevards around the old city; Observatory; hospitals; National Bank; Musee Wiertz (fantastic compositions of a Belgian painter) ; Museum of Antiquities, and Porte de Hal ; precious paintings in Aremberg Palace ; Botanical Garden ; Bois de la Cambre, the Bois de Boulogne of Brussels. At Laeken, 2 M. N., is the Gh. of Ste. Marie , where members of the royal family are buried. In the cem- etery, grave and statue of Malibran. — Ro t yal Palace, the King’s favorite residence. Monument to Leo- pold I. — Manor of Bouchout, where dwells Carlotta, sx-Empress of Mexico. Waterloo may be reached by rly. to Braine l’Al- leud, and walk (^ hr.) to the Butte du Lion, or to Waterloo , and go over to the battle-field by omnibus ; or you can go by mail-coach from the Place Roy ale, at 9.30 a.m. (round-trip, 7 fr. ; coachman, 1 fr.). Guides, Belgian and English, on the field (fees, 2-4 fr.). Water- loo is a Elemish village. The Mt. St. Jean and the Butte du Lion, on which is a pyramid and a colossal lion, should be visited. Museum at Hotel du Musee . BELGIUM. 207 Louvain ( Hotel de Suede ; Du Nord ), population 35,000, may be visited from Brussels in 1 hr. (fares, 2 fr. 30 c., 1 fr. 75 c., 1 fr. 15 c.)- This was one of the great weaving-centres ; but after 1383 the weavers went to England. The Hotel de Ville is one of the marvels of Belgium. This jewel of Gothic art was built 1448-63. Exterior lavishly decorated with stat- ues. The great Gothic Ch. of St. Pierre (open, except 2-4) has a fine tabernacle and many remark- able paintings. Les Halles , built 1317, and the vast prison, should be seen. The University, founded in 1426, is Roman Catholic, and has 1,000 students (formerly 6,000). Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, etc. You may visit Ghent and Bruges from Antwerp or Brus- sels ; or, if you come directly from England to Ostend, you can go through Bruges and Ghent to Brussels. Fares, Dover to Ostend, 15 s., 10 s.; 68 M.; time, 4-6 hrs. Fares, Ostend to Brussels, 9 fr. 30 c., 6 fr. 95 c., 4 fr. 65 c. Ostend ( Hotel de Prusse ; Mertian ; Fontaine ; Grand Hotel Marion ; Imperial) is the second maritime town in Belgium (20,000 inh.) and the summer resi- dence of the King. It receives about 18,000 visitors annually. Renowned sea-baths ; magnificent stone dyke, J M. long ; monumental Cursaal ; Leopold Park, filled with cafes. Celebrated oyster-parks here. From Ostend it is 14 M. (fares, 1 fr. 75 c., lfr. 35 c., 90 c.) to Bruges {Hotel de Flandre ; Du Commerce ; St. Amand ), a city of 45,000 inhab., on the great canals to Ostend, Ghent, and Sluys. It is, like Amsterdam, called the Venice of the North/’ because seamed with canals. Handsome rly. stat. Guides, 1-3 fr. The 13th century was the epoch of Bruges’s greatest pros- 208 BRUGES. perity. It was the centre of the trade of the Hanseatic League, and the chief commercial city of Europe. Its decline dates from 1545. In the Grand Place is the Fleur de Ble Inn of which Longfellow sings. There also stood the house in which Maximilian was confined in the revolt of 1488 ; and opposite is the home of Charles II. of England, in his exile. The Cathedral (open daily, except 12-4 ; opened then for small fee) stands on the site of one built in 1358, and has a great num- ber of fine old Elemish pictures (fee to climb the tower, 1 fr.). Notre Dame contains some veiled paintings, shown for a fee of \ fr. The choir and nave date from 1186; the tower from 1250. It is the largest brick tower in Belgium, — 390 ft. high (fee, 1 fr.). Hand- some bronze doors ; exquisite marble group of the 1 ™ #1 1 1 Michael Angelo, over the altar. Charles the Bold and his daughter Marie. Carven pulpit. Large collection of paintings. The Belfry of Bruges (see Longfellow), one of the quaint monuments of the Communes , is 350 ft. high, (fee, |fr. below, Jfr. above). The chimes (48 bells) play every quarter-hour. — The Hotel de Ville (1377) is a noble Gothic edifice, with 6 towers. — The Hospital St. Jean , W. of Notre Dame (open daily, except Sun., 9-12, and 1-6, fr.), is renowned for its marvellous paintings by Hans Mending. Do not fail to see these. The Chdsse de Ste. TJrsule is the best. The Academy of Fine Arts (J fr.) has many remarkable pictures by the old masters. In St. Jacques are brass engraved monu- ments of Spanish families. — The Chapelle du St. Sang was built in 1150 as the receptacle for a phial that the Patriarch of Jerusalem had given to Theodoric of Elan- ders, with some drops of the Saviour’s blood. Portal and staircase, Elamboyant Gothic. The Falais de sumptuous ancient tombs of BELGIUM. 209 Justice (rebuilt, 1722) has a carved chimney-piece (1528-29) in ’the Court Room (ifr). Bruges, though decadent and melancholy, is celebrated for pretty girls and decorated old houses. See statues of Mending and Jan van Eyck. From Bruges it is £ hr. (fares, 3fr. 40c., 2fr. 55c., lfr. 70c.) to Ghent {Hotel Royal ; Be la Poste ; Be Vienne ), a city of 145,000 inhab., on the river Scheldt. The town is divided' into 26 islands, and lias 88 bridges. The history of Ghent is romantic. It became the capi- tal of Flanders in 1180. 200 years earlier, Baudouin had introduced weaving. The great Guilds, under Jacques van Artevelde, etc., ruled this region for 2 centuries, and often came to blows among themselves,, as on May 2, 1345, when 1,500 men were slain in a terrible street-battle. In the 15th century there were 40,000 weavers ; and the woollen workers alone fur- nished 18,000 men to the civic army. Charles Y. was- born in Ghent in 1500. From the Spanish domina- tion dates the decline. 11,000 inhab. emigrated at once to England and Holland. Louis XIY. took the town after a siege of 6 days, in 1698. In 1810 Napo- leon I. made a ceremonial entry, with Marie Louise. Notice the Marche du Vendredi , a great square- surrounded by old houses. In the middle, the politi- cal forum of Ghent, stands a statue of Yan Artevelde. In the Cathedral of St. Bavon (open daily, except 12—1) see the vast crypt, built in 991 and restored in 1228 ; the noble nave and transepts (1533) ; and the tower, built in 1533-34 (416 steps ; fee, 2 fr., 1-4 persons). See the picture of “The Adoration of the Spotless Lamb/’ by the brothers Yan Eyck. Al- though more than 400 years old, it preserves its bril- liancy of coloring. Here also is a chef -d’ oeuvre of Rubens. Two statues of Sts. Peter and Paul ornament 14 210 GHENT. — MECHLIN. the choir. The Hotel de Ville, built 1481-1628, is a remarkably beautiful Flamboyant building, whose E. fagade is very striking. The Belfry, built 1183-1339, whose bells assembled the citizens, is 386 ft. high, and commands an extensive prospect over Flanders (ascent, 2 fr.). There are 44 bells in the chime, including Ro- land. The Beguinage, the chief curiosity in Ghent, is a community of women who are not bound by vows, but live by their own labors or resources. This insti- tution of secular saints had its origin in the 7th century. The old Grand Beguinage formed a separate quarter of the city, surrounded by walls, and included 18 convents and 100 houses. The new suburban one has many handsome Gothic houses, and a vast cli. 600 women live here, and make rich laces. See St. Jacques Ch.\ St. Nicholas and St. Michael , crowded with pictures ; St. Bierre , with rare old paintings ; the imposing Palais de Justice ; the University, with a splendid marble rotunda, and a library in old Baudeloo Monastery (100,000 vols.) ; and the Museum (| fr.). The Oudeburg is a remnant of the old palace of the Counts of Flanders, where John of Gaunt was born, 1340. On Marche du Yendredi is an old cannon, such as stone missiles were fired from. See Botanical Garden (Ghent is called “The Queen of Flowers ”) ; Zoological Garden (fee, 1 fr.) ; ruins of Abbey of St. Bavon. Fares from Ghent to Brussels, 4 fr. 35 c., 3 fr. 25 c., 2 fr. 20 c. Prom Brussels to Antwerp trains run in 1 hr., pass- ing Malines, or Mechlin {Hotel de la Station ; Cheval d’ Or), a city of 40,000 inhab., the ecclesiastical capital of Belgium. In 1572-80 the town was sacked and burned by the Spaniards, the troops of the Prince of Orange, and the English. See the Cathedral of St. Rombold, begun in 1451. Imposing interior, and carved pulpit. Huge tower, 320 ft. high, with a splendid BELGIUM. 211 ehime of 44 bells. In the S. transept is The Crucifixion, by Van Dyck. In Notre Dame is Rubens’s Miraculous Draught of Eishes (1 fr.). In St. Jean is a fine Triptych by Rubens fr.) . Mechlin is renowned for its beautiful lace. Antwerp (Hotel St. Antoine; Be V (Europe; Grand La- boureur ; Be la Paix) is one of the most flourishing com- mercial towns in Europe (230,000 inliab.), and one of the quaintest and most replete with historical and artis- tic interest. Napoleon I. wished to make Antwerp a great maritime arsenal, and built vast docks; but the Antwerp people have constructed others yet more vast. Climb the Cathedral Tower (75 c.), and look over the crowded Scheldt, and over the Low Countries from Breda to Brussels. The Cathedral (built 1352-1530) is the most imposing cli. in Belgium (open daily, except 12-4). When closed, ask porter for keys (1 fr.). The majestic interior (384 ft. long, 130 ft. high) is divided into 7 aisles, by 6 rows of columns. Choir built 1352-1411. Philip II. once held a Chapter of the Order of the Golden Eleece here. In 1566 the Iconoclasts did irreparable damage. (See Motley’s “ Dutch Republic,” for romantic episodes in Antwerp’s history.) In the r. transept is Rubens’s Descent from the Cross, usually kept veiled. In the 1. transept is Rubens’s The Elevation of the Cross. Above the high altar is The Assumption, also by Rubens. See stone outside with the epitaph of Quentin Matsys, and the sculptured pulpit and tabernacles. The mag- nificent tower is 402 ft. high (finished 1530) ; the chimes have 99 bells. Napoleon likened this tower to Mechlin lace. Near the portal is the celebrated iron well-canopy made by Quentin Matsys. St. Paul , St. Andrew , and St. Antoine contain rare old Blemish paintings. The Ch. of St. Jacques (built 1429-1507) 212 ROTTERDAM. contains the tomb of Rubens, and many good pictures and sculptures (small fee). St . Augustine has pictures by Rubens, Yan Dyck, etc. The Hotel de Ville , built in 1561-65, contains splendid mural paintings (done in 1864-69) in the Salle Leys . Many old Guild houses (1513-79) near by. Visit the N beautiful new Gothic Bourse ; the Palais de Justice; and the House of Rubens (Rue Rubens), ‘ where the painter died. The Museum (open daily, 9-5) is the best in Belgium ; 700 paintings here, with many Rubenses and Van Dycks (catalogue, 3^fr.). Tor notable private collections in- quire here. The new Boulevards, on the site of the walls ; the vast docks, quays, and warehouses ; the Park ; and the statues of Rubens, King Leopold I., Yan Dyck, and Teniers, are worth seeing. The Cita- del and fortifications are interesting. Steamers from Antwerp to Rotterdam thrice weekly, in 9 hrs. ; fares, 5 fr. 30 c., 3 fr. 20 c. To London, Sun., Wed., and Fri. , 34 fr. To London via Harwich, daily, 34 fr., 26 fr. 70 c. Regular departures for all the great ports of the world. HOLLAND. T HE tourist may very pleasantly and profitably spend 2-3 days in Holland. Go from Antwerp (time, 4 hrs. ; fares, 10 fr. 45 c., 7 fr. 70 c., 4fr. 90 c.) to Rotterdam (Hotel Leygraaf ; de Maas ; Weimar; Victoria ; Coomans), the second city in Holland (150,000 inhab.). The Maas is here navigable for the largest ships ; and the scene on the quay is very animated. Superb docks, and many canals, the steamboats land HOLLAND. 213 passengers near the Boompjes quay. Here stood the Dutch East India House, now turned into colonial warehouses. Rotterdam builds many ships ; has a heavy trade with Java and Sumatra, and steam lines to London and other Atlantic ports ; and is a great point for the departure of emigrants for America.. The canals are bordered with trees, and the suburbs are pleas- ing. The Hoogstraat , the Willemskade, the new quay, are worth seeing. The Museum (open daily,. 11-3 ; \ fr.) has fine examples of Rembrandt, Rubens, Diirer, Wouvermans, and Ary Scheffer. In the Groote- Kerk is a noble organ ; also monuments of several famous admirals. Good view from the tower, 297 ft. high (60 c.) The Old Ch ., the S. Ch ., the new Town Hall , the Exchange , the Botanical Gardens , the Zoologi- cal Gardens , may be easily seen in an afternoon. The statue of Erasmus stands in the Groote-Markt ; and on the house which was his birthplace is the inscription, Heec est parva damns, magnus qua natus Erasmus. The New Bark is W. of the town. Walk along the Maas, noting the peculiar costume of the peasantry and the singular neatness of the houses. Erom Rotterdam to the Hague takes \ hr. (fares, lfl. 20 c., lfi., 60 c.). On this route is Schiedam, renowned for its distil- leries (see Hotel de Ville and Exchange) \ and Delft ( Hotel Lubrechts), a very ancient Dutch town, once fa- mous for porcelain, but now dull and dignified. The staircase on which William of Orange was shot (1584) is still shown. It was from Delft that the Pilgrims embarked for Plymouth, America (1620). In the Oude Kerk, see the tomb of Admirals van Tromp (1653), Hein, etc. In the Nieuwe Kerk (1412-76) is the mag- nificent Mausoleum of William of Orange. The Hague ( Hotel Bellevue ), beautifully situated ; {Oude Boelen), the capital of Holland (156,000 inhab.),is 214 THE HAGUE. — SCHEVENINGEN. in summer one of the most charming places in Europe. It nestles in a delightful forest, where all the character- istics of Dutch scenery — mossy trees, green banks, and winding brooks and canals — appear. The Museum (open free daily, 9-3 ; Sat., 10-1 ; catalogue, 50 c.) contains the very best examples of the Dutch school of art, and many other celebrated paintings, — Paul Potter’s famous Bull, Rembrandt’s School of Anatomy, the Presenta- tion in the Temple, etc. On the E. is a statue of Wil- liam the Silent (1848). In th z Buitenhof statue of William II. Opposite the Royal Palace , equestrian statue of Prince William I. See the Marine Mtiseum , with its wonderful collection of models for ships ; the Royal Library (100,000 vols.) ; the collection of 40,000 coins and medals ; the Groote Kerk , with its beautiful tombs ; the Kloster Kerlc ; the New Ch., where Spinoza is buried. The ponderous old Binnenhof Palace and the Buitenhof square are of great historic interest. The Grand Council now holds its sessions in the an- cient torture-room. Beyond the Buitenhof you reach the gloomy Gevangenport tower, where De Witt was slain in 1672. In the Willems-Park is the grand Na- tional Monument (built 1863-69), covered with statues. The national buildings are plain and substantial. On the Noordeinde is the Royal Palace i and the old Mu- seum of King William II. Prince Frederick’ s Palace is not far from the Park. See the pretty royal villa called Huis ten Bosch, built in 1647, and filled with treasures of art (fee, 1 fl). From the Hotel Bellevue, steam tramway (2^-3 M.) to the pretty seaside resort of Scheveningen {Grand Hotel des Bains, prices mod- erate), a fishing-village among the dunes. In summer, the fashionable world of North Germany, Holland, and England, and many people from the S., assemble here. Beautiful sea views and fine forests. Leyden and Haar - HOLLAND. 215 lem may be visited between The Hague and Amster- dam (fares to Amsterdam, 4 fl., 3 fl. 5c., 2 fl. ; to Leyden, 80 c., 60 c. , 40 c. ; from Leyden to Haarlem, 1 lio. 40 c.; 1 fl., 10 c., 70c.). Leyden {Hotel Levedag ; Lion d'Or ; Central: 40,000 inhab., famous for the great siege (see Mot- ley). It possessed 100,000 weavers. Leading ob- jects of interest; the spacious Hooglandsche Kerk\ the Natural History Museum (open daily, free), with the finest cabinet of anatomy in Europe (open daily, 2-5, except Sun.); the Museum of Antiquities (open free Sun., 12-7, Tues., Tliurs., and Sat., 11-4) ; the Jap- anese Museum (open dail} T , 50 c.) ; the Numismatic (open daily, 12-3) ; the University (600 students), founded after the siege, with excellent observatory • Library, 3,000 oriental MSS. (open Mon., Wed., and Sat., 12-3) ; the Botanic Gardens (E. Indies, plants) ; and the old Castle of Dr usus. The Hotel de Ville lias many inscriptions relative to the siege of 1574. Haarlem {Hotel van den Berg; Lion d' Or; Funck - lev) is a town of 28,000 inhab. The siege by the Spaniards in 1572, and the heroic defense, are de- scribed in Motley’s picturesque history. The Cathe- dral is very spacious ; 28 columns in the nave. The vast organ, with 5,000 pipes, is played Tues. and Thurs., 1-2 ; at other times 12 fl. for a party. Visit the interior. Marble crypt under the organ. From the tower extensive view. See the Teyler Museum ; the statue of Coster, inventor of printing with metal types ; Coster's House ; the Museum of Natural His- tory ; and the house of the rich banker, Hope. Amsterdam {Hotel Amstel ; Pays Bas; Old Bible; Brack’s Doelen) is a city of 400,000 inhab. , named from the Amstel, an inlet of the Zuider Zee, communicating with the North Sea by the N. Holland Canal, 50 M. 216 AMSTERDAM. long, the most gigantic undertaking of the kind ever executed. It commences opposite Amsterdam, and ex- tends to the Holder and the Texel ; cost $5,000,000. The town is built upon piles driven into the sand. Its canals are spanned by more than 300 bridges. The finest view is from the Hooge Slugs. Near by is St. Anthony’s Gate, with 5 towers (built 1488-1585). The Palace is a huge stone structure, standing on 13,695 piles. Near it are the Bam , the memorial of 1831, the Exchange , the Post- Office, the Nieuwe Kerk, the Sea- man's Club. From the tower, one has a magnifi- cent panorama of the city. Fine marble sculp- tures on the palace front. The Throne Hall , the Grand Hall , decorated with trophies, and the Au- dience Hall , are remarkable (fee, 50 c.). The Botan- ical and Zoological Gardens (latter, 75 c.) are equal to those of any other city. The principal museuip (free daily, 10-3), the Trippenhuis , has the best collection of paintings in Holland (get catalogue). Note the works of Rembrandt. The Yanderhoof collection is in the Academy of Fine Arts. The Oude Manne?ihuis is open, 10-4. The Fodor Museum has very good French and Dutch pictures. The Historical Gallery is devoted to episodes in Dutch history (open daily, 50 c. ; catalogue 75 c.). See Vos Museum ; statue of Rembrandt ; monu- ment to Yan Speyk ; Blind Asylum ; Zeemanshoop {Sailors 5 Hope), a club with 2,000 members; Normal School of Navigation ; Sailor's Home ; great range of state warehouses, on Entrepot Dock ; Park, good music on Sun. ; shops where diamonds are polished ; Jewish quarter ; Cellular Prison ; and Crystal Palace. Am- sterdam is the cleanest city in Europe ; on a bright Sunday it presents a charming spectacle. Notice the Fountain, commemorating the events in 1830-31. In the old ch. on the Dam, monument to Yan Ruyter, UTRECHT. 217 Pleasant excursions to Barmen , and other pretty sub- urban towns. Broelc , 6 M. out, is a wonderfully clean village. At Zaandam is the house where Peter the Great worked when learning the shipwright’s trade. Good fish dinners here. It is 1 hr. (23 M. ; fares, 1 fl. 70 c., 1 fl. 25 c., 85 c.) from Amsterdam to Utrecht ( Hotel Bays Bas ; Bellevue ; Be la Station) } the Roman Trajectum, and the home of many Dutch families of rank. Noble Cathedral here, constructed in the lBtli century, and much tried by hurricanes and iconoclasts. The people of Utrecht boast that from the tower, 321 ft. high, you can see all Holland. In the cli., fine organ and magnifi- cent mausoleums. S. of the cathedral is the Uni - versify, founded in 1636, very rich ; 600 stu- dents ; splendid library and remarkable Museum of Natural History. The Palace of the Popes , founded by Adrian VI., with a statue of St. Salvador, is now the palace of the provincial government. Adrian was born in Utrecht. In the Stadhuis are a few pictures. Pine new boulevards around the city. Prom Utrecht you can begin your journey up the Rhine. Take rail to Busseldorf passing Arnhem , the Arenacum of the ancients. Tim Romans encamped here 70 years b.c., and it was for a long time the resi- dence of the Dukes ( ; Guelders. See the Cathedral , with tomb of Count Egmont. Tower, 330 ft. high ; wonderful chimes. The Palace of Justice has a fine court-room. Emmerich ( Hotel de Hollande') is the first German town. 218 DGSSELDORF. — COLOGNE. GERMANY AND AUSTRIA. F ROM Utrecht to Emmerich, 4 fl. 50 c., 3 fl. 40 c. 5 2 fl. 25 c. ; 54^ M. Erom Emmerich to Bussel- dorf fares, 7 mks. 60 pf., 5 mks. 70 pf., 3 inks. 80 pf. ; to Cologne, 11 mks. 20 pf., 8 mks. 40 pf., 5 mks. 60 pf. ; to Erankfort, 28 mks. 80 pf., 21 mks. 20 pf., 13 mks. 50 pf. Diisseldorf ( Hotel Breidenbacher ; Be V Europe; Wdmischer Kaiser ), a city of 81,000 inhab., is the prin- cipal art-centre on the Rhine. The Academy of Arts was founded in 1767 ; it now has 300 students, in a wing of the old Electoral Palace , saved from the fire of 1872. Here, also, are the remains of the famous Gallery of Art, and many drawings, of all schools, (open Mon., Wed., Eri., and Sat., 12-1). Handsome Florentine Post-office ; pleasant PLofgarten ; and haunts of Goethe and Herder. The Ch. of St. Lambert con- tains the tombs of the last Dukes of Cleves and Rerg, and a good picture by Aclienbach. St. Andrew's is very interesting. In the hall of the Realschule is a frieze by Bendemann. In the Courts of Justice see Schadow’s “ Heaven, Hell, and Purgatory.” Many fine modern paintings in the Tonhalle. See statues of Cornelius and the Elector John William. Several exhibitions of pictures in the town ; admission fees, 50 pf. It is J-} hr. by rly. (fares, 3 mks. 70 pf., 2 mks. 80 pf., 1 mk. 90 pf.), or by boat 5 hrs., to Cologne {Hotel du Nord ; Disch ; Be V Europe* Victoria ; Du Dome ; Cologne), the sixth town in the German Empire (165,000 inhab.), and an important garrison. The streets are dark, narrow, and mediaeval • Many houses date from the 13th century. 70 wide COLOGNE. 219 streets have lately been laid out. Cologne was founded by the Ubii, when Agrippa transferred them to the 1. bank of the Rhine ; and colonized by Roman veterans when Germanicus held command, as Colonia Agrippina. It was the residence of the legates of Lower Germany. Coustantine the Great built a bridge here in 308,. afterwards destroyed by the Normans. From the 5tl> century it was a part of the Frankish kingdom. Exten- sive Roman remains here. The Cathedral, the grandest Gothic building in the- world, was begun in 1248, The choir was consecrated, in 1322, and the nave in 1388; but about 1500 the work ceased, and in 1795 the French troops used the half-ruinous ch. for a hay-magazine. Construction was- resumed in 1823, and more than $3,000,000 spent upon it between 1842 and 1880, when it was consecrated, with imposing ceremonies. The superb W. faqade and lofty portals are flanked by 2 huge towers, crowned by open spires, over 500 ft. high. The bells were placed in the S. tower in 1447 ; and in 1874 a new r 30-ton bell, made from French cannon, was added. A forest of flying buttresses joins the nave and aisles. The total length is 444 ft. ; breadth, 201 ft. • height of nave, 145 ft.. There are 4 aisles; and the triple-aisled transepts extend to the imposing N. and 8. portals. There are 56 vast columns inside. The stained win- dows in the N. aisle date from 1508-9 ; those in th& S. aisle (equally beautiful) are Munich work of 1848. The Choir contains 14th-century statues of the 12 Apostles, 15th-century carved stalls, ancient stained windows, modern fresces of angel-choirs, modern tap- estries, and 7 wonderful chapels, with venerable tombs of the archbishops, the Bavarian Electors, etc. The reliquary in the Chapel of the Three Kings contains the bones of the Magi, carried to Constantinople by 220 COLOGNE. the Empress Helena, thence to Milan, and presented by Barbarossa to Cologne’s archbishop in 1164. The heart of Marie de Medicis is buried here. The Library contains Hildebald’s precious MSS. ; and many deeply interesting relics are in the Treasury and in the Archi- epis copal Museum , S. of the ch. See inner and outer galleries of the choir. The ch. is open all day, but walking about is not allowed during service. Over the rly. -bridge are equestrian statues of Fred- erick William IV. and William I. W. of the Cathedral is the great Gothic Museum (open 9-6, 75 pf.) with many hundred paintings, and very interesting Roman and mediaeval relics. In the adjacent Minorites' Ch ., Duns Scotus is buried. Beautiful Gothic cloisters. St. Gereon's Ch. (fee, 1 mk.), contains the bones of the Theban Legion, martyred at Cologne, under Diocletian. Skulls and bones of the martyrs to be seen in the choir. Curious crypt. In St. Ursula is the tomb of that unhappy princess, who, with her 11,000 virgin com- panions, was massacred at Cologne on her return from Rome. The ch. (5th century ; restored) has a Gothic portal. You are shown the bones of the martyrs in all parts of the ch. In the Treasury (fee, 1| mk.) is St. Ursula's Reliquary. Great St. Martin has a majestic tower, and an exquisite baptismal font, given by Pope Leo II. St a. Maria -Im-Capitol, consecrated in 1049 by Pope Leo IX., is an imposing Romanesque ch. St. Peter has an altar-piece by Rubens. St. Cecilia dates from 1200. The Apostles' Ch. (1200) has a picturesque choir. Si. Cunibert (1248) has rich frescos and glass. See the Old Wall ; the Roman Tower ; the house in which Marie de Medicis died in exile and poverty ; the Monument to Frederick William III., surrounded by statues of statesmen and generals who relieved the Rhine from French domination ; and the bronze statue AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 221 of Bismarck. The Rathhans (13th century) has the Lion’s Court, and the quaint hall in which the first Diet of the Hanseatic League was held. See Botanic and Zoological Gardens, and the marry “ original and only ’* shops where the Farina Eau de Cologne is sold. 1^ hr. from Cologne (fares, 6mks., 4|mks., 3mks.), on the routes to Belgium and Paris, is Aix-la-Cha- pelle ( Hotel Grand Monarque ; Ntiellens ; Be VEm- pereur ; Bellevue ; Dragon d’Or), the Aachen of the Germans and the Aquisgranum of the Homans. This was the favorite residence of Charlemagne, and here he died in 814. Aix was at one time the capital of all the country N. of the Alps. 37 German emperors were crowned here. For centuries the Imperial Diets were held here. The modern town is handsome, with the characteristics of a watering-place. The warm Sulphur Springs were renowned in the Roman era, and wonder- ful cures are still effected by them. The most impor- tant is the Kaiserquelle. At the Elisenhrunnen crowds assemble daily in summer to drink the waters. The Kurhaus has a superb concert-hall (fee, 50 pf.). In the Market-place is a fountain, with statue of Charle- magne. The great Cathedral is in two sections : the quaint-roofed Byzantine octagon (in the style of San Vitale, at Ravenna), built by Charlemagne, 796-804, and consecrated by Pope Leo III. ; and the lofty choir, in the best Gothic style (1353-1413). The octagon contains many fine columns, brought from Rome and Ravenna; bronze doors, cast in 804; and the pulpit, rich in gold and gems, presented by Henry II. See the stained windows, designed by Cornelius ; and the 14th-century statues. The tomb of Charlemagne was opened by Otho III. in 1000 ; and by Barbarossa in 1165, when the body was removed from the marble throne on which it was seated, and placed in a Parian 222 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE — BONN. sarcophagus. The throne (afterwards used in the coronation ceremonies) and the sarcophagus are now in the gallery. The bones of Charlemagne are en- shrined in the Treasury, where are also the girdles of Christ and Mary, a piece of the True Cross, etc. (Open daily, 9-1, 3-6 ; 3 mks. for 1-3 persons.) Notice the old Flemish paintings inside of the cabinets. Some of the holy treasures, such as the swaddling-clothes of the infant Saviour, are shown but once every 7 years. The Rathhaus was built out of the debris of the pal- ace of the Carlovingian emperors (1376). The Hall of the Emperors (75 pf.) has noble frescos. The Warriors' Monument commemorates the soldiers slain in 1866 and 1870-71. The Museum has some good pictures. Up the Rhine by Steamer. The journey can be made in 1 day from Cologne to Mayence. It is better to take 2 days, stopping at Coblence. There is a rly. on either bank, but the steam- boat is preferable. If, however, you wish to go from Cologne to Frankfort by rail, you can do so in 4 hrs. (fares, 12 mks., 9 mks., 6 mks.). By steamboat (large and fine boats) the fares from Cologne to Coblence are 3 mks. 60 pf., 2 mks. 40 pf.; by the express boat the fare is 3 mks. 70 pf. From Coblence to Mayence, 3 mks. 70 pf., 2|mks. ; by express boat, 4^ mks. Through tickets allow stopping off, but be careful to resume the journey by the boats of the same company. You can take rail from Cologne to Bonn (21 M.; fares, 2| mks., If mks., 1 mk. 30 pf.) ; from Cologne to Coblence 7 mks. 70 pf., 5 mks. 60 pf., 3 mks. 90 pf.); from Co- blence to Frankfort (10 mks. 40 pf., 6 mks. 90 pf., 4 mks. 40 pf.); Bonn ( Hotel Stern , capital house; Kley ; Royal; UP THE RHINE. 223 Rheineck) has a beautiful location. Just beyond, the banks become bold and precipitous, and the beauties of the famous stream begin. The University occupies the old castle, built in 1717-30 as an electoral palace, and 1,800 ft. long. It has a library of 250,000 vols. ; museums of Roman and Teutonic antiquities and of Arts (75 pf. each; catalogues for sale). See bronze statue of Beethoven in the Miinsterplatz. The Ca- thedral, founded by the mother of Constantine, is a cruciform basilica, with two choirs and a high octagonal tower. Bronze statue of the Empress Helena inside. Beethoven's birthplace is in the Bonngasse. The Pop- pelsdorfer Schloss, reached by a quadruple avenue of horse-chestnuts 1|M. long, contains a very large natural- history collection (fee, 75 pf.). Chemical Laboratory near by. The Anatomie , a noble edifice, finished in 1872, is not far off. Beyond Poppelsdorf is the Kreuz - berg , 400 ft. high, on which is a eh. containing the Roly Staircase , built in imitation of that at Rome, and to be mounted on the knees only. Bonn was the Cas - tra Bonnensia of Tacitus, a great Roman fortress. It has suffered terrible sieges. The Coblenzerstrasse is very handsome. The Provincial Museum , in the House of Arndt , is interesting. On the Alte Zoll is the Monument to Arndt. In the cemetery are buried Niebuhr the his- torian, Schlegel, Robert Schumann, Arndt, and Yon Bunsen. Konigs winter {Hotel de V Europe ; Be Berlin ), on the E. bank of the Rhine, is the point whence to visit the Siebengebirge. The Drachenfels (916 ft. high) may be climbed in 1 hr. (guide, 1 mk. ; donkey, Ijmk.). Half-way up, a road diverges to the far- viewing tower on the Hirschberg. To the W. is the Monument in memory of the events of 1813-15. The Castle stands near the Terrace (where there is a good 224 ROLANDSECK. — NONNENWERTH. hotel). It was built about 1100 by the first archbishop of Cologne, and takes its name from a dragon slain there by Siegfried, the Niebelungen hero. The red wine made from its vineyards is called Dragon's Blood. The castle was destroyed by Ferdinand of Bavaria, after a long siege. Ruins still magnificent. Superb view of the Seven Mts., the basalt cliffs behind Remagen, Ober winter, the ruins of Rolandseck, Bonn, and Co- logne. See the cavern where the fabled dragon had his abode. An excursion may be made to the Oelberg , the view from which is the most extensive in the Rhine- land. Thence it is 1^ hr. to Heisterbach , an old Cis- tercian abbey, in a beautiful valley. Little is left of the magnificent ch., built about 1200. From the Oel- berg, the Lowenburg (1,504 ft.), a castle where the Elector of Cologne had interviews with Melancthon before becoming a Protestant, may be reached. Fine view. Return from Heisterbach to Konigswinter in f hr. by the Petersberg , whence good view. Konigswinter is near most charming scenery. The boat touches at Rolandseck ( Hotel Boland - seek ; Billau) , \ \\x . above Konigswinter. From res- taurant at the rly. stat., fine view of the Seven Mts., and the Rhine to Remagen. Rolandseck is a very E opular summer-resort. Ruined Castle stands on a asalt rock, 347 ft. above the Rhine. It was founded by Roland, the Paladin of Charlemagne, who died at Roncesvalles. The island of Nonnenwerth, where stands the convent in which the beautiful Hildegarde is said to have taken the veil when she heard that Roland had perished in Spain, may be reached by a small boat (return-fare, 1 mk.). This convent is men- tioned in a document of the 12tli century. It was sup- pressed in 1802, reconsecrated in 1845, and closed again in 1876. See Bulwer’s Pilgrims of the Bhine. x UP THE RHINE. 225- and Schiller’s ballad of Ritter Toggenburg. At Rhein- breitbach (W. bank) is a large town, with towers, at the entrance of a valley filled with copper-mines. At Unkel (W. bank) the cliffs stand out into the bed of the stream, producing a rapid. Just above is Remagen {Hotel Furstenberg ; Konig von Preussen ), noticeable for its ch., on the Apollinarisberg (a hill to the N.), a pretty Gothic edifice with four towers, entirely modern, on the s^te of an old pilgrimage-shrine of the Middle Ages, it was built by Zwirner, architect of* Cologne Cathedral, and contains 10 grand frescos, masterpieces of modern German art (open 9^—12 and 2-6; fee, 25 pf.). The legend states that when the Archbishop of Cologne was descending the Rhine (in 1161) with the bones of the Magi and the head of St. Apollinaris, Bishop of Ravenna, his boat was stopped here, by some mysterious power, until the latter was placed in the chapel on this site. Remagen was a Roman town ( Rigomagm ), but lost its importance in the Thirty Years' War. Beautiful excursions thence, between bold basaltic hills, up the Valley of the Ahr, where 4,000,000 bottles of red wine are produced yearly. It is 7 M. (carriage, 4 mks.) to the Baths of Neuetiahr , a charming watering-place, with warm alkali springs, used for lung and liver diseases. Ahrweiler y a quaint little walled town, has the famous Apollinaris* Spring. Ruined castles aud pretty villages abound. Opposite Remagen, over Erpel (E. bank) is a basaltic cliff 642 ft. high. Linz ( Nassauer Hof ) is an ancient town on the W. bank, with walls and pavements of basalt, and a 13th-century Romanesque ch., containing a triptych of the ancient Cologne school of art. The adjacent hills have interesting basalt-quarries, and crosses commemorating the battles of Leipsic and Waterloo rise on two of them. Arenfels castle, above 22 6 HAM MERSTE1 N. — ANDERNACH. Linz, lately restored, has an ancient round tower, and, in the Knights’ Hall, a collection of armor. Hheineck (W. bank), the boundary between the Upper and lower Rhenish districts, is a lofty Romanesque castle on the site (and with a tower) of the fortress of the Rheinach family, founded in the 12th century. It may be visited from Brohl hr.), and has some fine paintings (fee, 50-75 pf.) and a superb view. It was sacked by the French in 1689 and by troops of Cologne in i692. [Farther up, near Brohl, is Hammerstein, a 10th-cen- tury castle, where Henry IY. took refuge from his sons, and which was held, during the Thirty Years’ War, by Swedes, Spaniards, Germans, and Lorrainers. In 1660 “the Archbishop of Cologne destroyed this too powerful neighbor. Roman ruins 4 M. E. Andernach ( Hotel Hackenbruch ; Glocke ), on the W. bank, has narrow streets, ancient walls, a many- towered Romanesque cli. (1206), and a lofty watch- tower, built in 1414-68, and breached by French guns in 1688. It was one of the 50 forts of Drusus ; re- captured from the Alemanni by Julian in 389 ; a royal Franconian residence in the 6th century ; an im- perial town later; stormed by Cologne troops in 1496; and burned by the French in 1688. The deep moat and massive towers of the castle remain (see Long- fellow r ’s Hyperion) . Excursion to the Benedictine Abbey of Laach, founded in 1093, with magnificent Roman- esque cli. and cloisters, on the vast crater-lake of the Laacher See (6 M. around). The Rhine now r flows through a defile, between rug- gedheights. Neuwied ( Goldener Anker ), on the E., lias the palace and park of the Prince of Wied, and a community of austere Moravian Brethren, with ad- mirable schools and workshops. Monrepox is a chateau oi the Prince, near by; and Altwied, 3-J M. out (car- UP THE RHINE. 227 nage, 4- mks.), is a picturesque ruined castle. Weissen- thurm is opposite Neuwied, with a white watch-tower marking the boundaries of Treves and Cologne. Above is an obelisk to General Hoche, erected by a French army crossing the Rhine in’ 1797. Near Engers (E. bank) are fragments of Roman masonry, supposed to be parts of Julius Caesar’s bridge across the Rhine (see Commentaries) . Muhlhofen (E. bank) is 1^ M. from the ruins of Sayn castle, and the great modern cha- teau of Sayn, rich in art. Kesselheim (W. bank) is near Schonbornslust, an old palace of the electors of Treves and of the exiled Bourbons. On Niederwerth island, where Edward III. of England lived in 1337, is an old convent ch. At Neuendorf the small timber- rafts from the Upper Rhine and Moselle are enlarged and strengthened, before drifting Hollandward. The high fortress of Ehrenbreitstein now comes into view, and the palace of the Prussian King. Coblence {Hotel du Geant ; Bellevue ; Anker ; Traube ; Be Treves ), the capital of Rhenish Prussia (30,000 inliab.), is at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle, whence the Romans called it Confuentia . It is a pow- erful fortress, with heights crossed with enormous forti- fications, and a garrison of 5,000 soldiers. The Palace was built by the last Elector of Treves, and contains interesting Electoral Hall and Festival Hall, with por- traits, tapestries, etc. (fee, Imk.). The Mainzer-Thor and others of the city gates are worthy of notice. St. Castor is a handsome 4-tow~ered basilica, founded in 836 and rebuilt in 1208. Before it is the historic Castor Fountain. The Moselle Bridge (14 arches) dates from 1344. The Rhine is crossed by a bridge of boats and by a very fine rly. bridge. The ArcKiepiscopal Palace (now a factory) dates from 1276; the Liebfrauenkirche , from the 13th century; the Merchants’ Hall, from 228 EHRENBREITSTEIN. — EMS. 1480. The Rhine Promenade is a beautiful waterside park. The Kuhkopf 1,190 ft. high, commands a grand view over the Rhine and Moselle valleys. Fort Franz, on the Petersberg, and Forts Alexander and Constantine (superb view hence) guard the city. Across the Rhine is Ehrenbreitstein, 11 c Honor’s Broad Stone ” (open daily; small fees for ticket and to guide), “The Gibraltar of the Rhine/’ a vast fortress on a precipitous rock, 387 ft. above the river, and commanding a wonderful view. It was granted by King Dagobert to the arch- bishops of Treves in 636, and has been beleaguered many times, but yielded only twice. The Trench de- stroyed the works in 1801; but they were rebuilt, 1816-26, at a cost of $6,000,000. Excursions from Coblence. — It is 1 hr/s rly. ride (1-^ mk., 1 mk., 70 pf.), or 7 M. walk from Ehrenbreitstein to Ems ( Hotel F Angle ter re ; Be Russie ; Bes Quatre Saisons ; Be V Europe), a little town on the Lahn, amid wooded heights, annually visited by 12,000 health- seekers (season, July 15-Sept. 1). The waters (saline and alkaline) are beneficial in pulmonary and female complaints, and have been used since 1354. The Kur - haus and Kursaal are the centre of the exotic life, and stand amid pleasant gardens. Up the Moselle, by steamer 117i M. (6 mks., 4 mks.), 4 times weekly, in 1| days, passing the night at Trarbach, and reaching Treves at 3 p.m. "Voyage back to Coblence, 12 hrs. (8 mks., 5 mks. 30 pf.). Rly. to Treves in 2| hrs. (69^ M. ; fares, 9 mks., 6 mks. 80 pf., 4|mks.). The valley of the Moselle is very beautiful, and interesting historically. Over Cobern is a wonderful pilgrimage-chapel ; over Rrodenbach s the splendid Ehrenburg ruin ; over Cochem, two fine castles and a monastery; over Trarbach , the ancient Grdfinburg ; and near Neumagen , Roman ruins. UP THE MOSELLE. 229 Trfeves ( Hotel de Treves ; Rothes Haus), on the Moselle, was the capital of the Treviri ; then the Au- gusta Trevirorum of the Romans ; then capital of Gaul, and Rome’s rival in art and commerce. This oldest city of Germany has only 26,000 inhab. ; although its well-preserved amphitheatre, in which Constantine delivered thousands of Franks to be torn by wild beasts (a.d. 306), accommodates 30,000 spectators. The vast ruins of the Roman Baths were connected with the Palace of the Emperors. The Porta Nigra is a huge Roman gateway of blackened sandstone, 115 ft. long and 93 ft. high. The Cathedral dates from 550, — a vast structure, under which repose the archbishops and electors of Treves. Here are preserved Christ’s seamless robe, a nail from the Cross, a fragment of the Crown of Thorns. Cloisters run thence to the Lieh - frauenkirche , a beautiful circular ch. (1243). The Basilica , built before Constantine, successively a Ro- man court-house, exchange, imperial governors’ palace, bishops’ palace, and barrack, is now a ch. The Museum and Town Library contain rare MSS., portraits, and Roman antiquities. Rly. from Treves to Thionville and Luxembourg (f hr.). Ascending the Rhine from Coblence, Capellen (Hotel Stolzenfels ; Bellevue') is soon reached (W. bank),, over wRich rises the royal castle of Stolzenfels (en- trance, 1 mk. ; donkeys to ride up and back, 1 mk. 20 pf.),. 420 ft. above the Rhine, with a magnificent view. It was built in 1250 by the Archbishop of Treves, and inhabited by his successors. The French destroyed it in 1688 ; and since 1823 it has been restored by the Prussian King. Rich historical frescos in Chapel and Knights’ Hall ; many rare old pictures and curiosities. Oberlahnstein (Hotel Weller; Lahneck ), opposite Capellen (ferry-steamer), is near the lately restored 230 BOPPARD. — ST. GOAR. castle of Lahneck. Above Capellen is Konigsstuhl, where the 4 Rhenish Electors used to meet, in open air, to elect emperors and conclude treaties. The Em- peror Charles IV. built a castle here in 1376. Earther up is Rhense (W.), with walls and a moat constructed by the Archbishop of Cologne in 1370. Braubach is under Marks burg, an imposing castle 492 ft. above the Rhine, founded before 1400, and still uninjured and inhabited. Old Swedish and Erench cannon here. Boppard {Zum Spiegel ; Rhe inis c her) , on the W. bank, was a Celtic town ; fortified by the Romans, and named Bandobrica ; headquarters of the 13th Legion ; seat of a Lodge of Knights Templar ; and an Imperial town. The inner wall is Roman, the outer wall mediaeval; and the two chs. date from 1200 and 1500. The high-placed Marienberg, formerly a Benedictine nunnery, is now a water-cure. The situation is lovely, in a broad bend of the Rhine, above which the mis. recede, giving place to rich meadows and green fields. Opposite pretty Salzig, famous for cherries, are twin rocky peaks, whereon rise the ruined castles of Stern- berg and Liebenstein , to which attaches the legend of Conrad, Heinrich, and Hildegarde. Over Welmich (E.) rises the castle of Thurnberg , finished in 1363, and then derisively called The Mouse. The handsome old town of St. Goar (founded ir 570) is overlooked by the grandest ruin on the river, the famous Rheinfels, dating from 1 245 ; besieged by 26 Rhenish towns in 1255 ; held by the Erench, 1758-63, 1794-97, and blown up by them ; and now royal property. St. Goarshausen (steam-ferry to St. Goar) is under the castle called The Cat, built in 1393, and blown up by the Erench in 1794. Many charming excursions from either of these towns. The noble and well-preserved ruin of Reichenberg castle OBERWESEL — BACHARACH. 231 (1280) is 3 M. E. The picturesque Swiss Valley is back of St. Goarshausen. Above is the Lurlei rock, a precipice 433 ft. high, rising over whirlpools in the deepest and narrowest part of the Rhine, and the fabled seat of a siren who lured sailors to death. Earther up are the Seven Virgins' rocks, with their grim legend. Oberwesel ( Uheinischer Hof), on the W., is a remarkably picturesque old Roman town, rich in wine and scenery, and beloved by artists, who haunt the gray old walls, the massive mediaeval towers, the 15th- century Ch. of Our Lady, with rare old carvings and pictures, and the Chapel on the riverward wall, com- memorating a terrible deed in 1286. Above all, Schonburg, the lofty castle, the birthplace of Marshal Schomberg, who lies in Westminster Abbey. This maiiy-towered cradle of a race of warriors w r as de- molished by Louis XIAC's troops in 1689. Caub, abounding in wine and salt, on the E. bank, is under the castle of G-utenfels, built in 1277, and destroyed in 1807* Above is the Pfalz, a hexagonal fortress in the middle of the Rhine, built by Lewis of Bavaria about the year 1200. Thence he used to swoop down upon passing vessels, and exact tribute. Hereabouts, Bliicher's and York's Prussian and Russian armies crossed the Rhine, Jan. 1, 1814. Bacharach (Hotel Wamsum; Hotel Lippert), on the W. bank, is a favorite resort, and its wines, celebrated in Longfellow's- Golden Legend, still entitle it to the name Ara Bacchi (altar of Bacchus), which the Middle- Ages men gave it. The great fire of 1872 destroyed many rare old houses ; but the gray walls, descending from Stahleck, still envelop the town : and the beau- tiful Gothic ruin of St. Werner's Ch., and the stately Romanesque Si. Peter's Ch., of the Templars, still stand fast. Overhead is Stahleck castle, the home 232 LORCH. — BINGEN. of the Counts Palatine until 1265, besieged 8 times by the French between 1620 and 1640, and blown un in 1680. Furstenberg, another noble ruin, is near by. The robber-knights fired thence on the ship in which Adolph of Nassau was descending to Aix-la- Chapelle, to be crowned Emperor (1292). Excursion up the narrow Steeg Talley ; also to Kreuznach. Lorch ( Hotel Schwati), on the E. bank, the Homan Laureacum , has a Flamboyant 12th-century cli., with quaint monuments and fine bells. Near by, over the Devil's Ladder cliff, is Nollingen castle. Niederheim- bach (W. bank) is under Hohneck , or Heimburg castle. Above is Sooneck castle, built in 1015 by the Arch- bishop of Mayence ; and Falkenburg, or the Reichen- . stem , destroyed as a robbers’ nest by the Rhenish towns (1251), and again by Rudolph of Hapsburg, who hung its knights from the windows. Rheinstein, farther up (W. bank), is a picturesque castle, built be- fore 1279, and restored 1825-29 by Prince Frederick of Prussia, who is buried here (entrance, \ mk.). Assmannshausen {Hotel Krone ; Anker), on the E., exports aromatic red wine all over the world. Above is the rapid of the Binger Loch , where the raftsmen have hard work. Elirenfels (E. bank) is a high tower, built in 1210 by the Governor of the Rheingau, dam- aged by the Swedes in 1635, and demolished by the French in 1689. Beyond are the terraced slopes which produce the Rudesheim wine. Opposite Ehrenlels, on quartz ledges in the stream, is the Mouse Tower, where, as legend tells, Archbishop Iiatto of Mayence was devoured alive by mice because he caused a crowd of famine-stricken peasants to be burned to death, com- paring them to corn-destroying mice. Bingen (Hotel Victoria; Bellevue) is under the wooded heights at the mouth of the Nalie, amid very METZ. 233 charming scenery, where the Rhine bends around the Niederwald , on which is the new National Monument, with huge bronze statues, etc. On the Brususberg are the ruins of Klapp , once a Roman castle, destroyed by the French in 1689. The Rochusberg (341 ft. high) overlooks the beautiful Rheingau; the Niederwald gives another ravishing view. Rly. from Riidesheim to Wiesbaden, Frankfort, Ems, and Nassau ; and from Bingerbriick to Mayence, Coblence, Cologne, and Kreuznach (Hof von Holland ; Adler), a prettily situ- ated watering-place, where 6-8,000 persons go yearly for the salt-baths, efficient in cutaneous troubles. From Bingerbriick one can go, by the Frankfort-Paris route, to Metz in 8-9 hrs. (fares, 17 mks. 90 pf., 13 inks., 8 mks. 60 pf.), passing Kreuznach ; Oberstein, a beautiful village on the Nalie, devoted to polishing agates ; Neunkirchen ; and Saarbrucken, 3 M. N. of the battle-ground of Spicheren (1870; carriage to field, 12 mks.). Metz (Hotel de V Europe ; Be Metz; Be Paris), a city of 55,000 inliab., on the Moselle, once the capital of the kingdom of Austrasia, was seized by France in 1552, and regained by Germany in 1870, after a pro- longed siege, and several terrible battles near Gravelotte and Mars-la-Tour, on the W. (see local guides). Since then the victors have greatly extended the vast fortress. The citizens are ultra-Frencli. The Cathedral is a mag- nificent 13th-century Gothic ch., with a tower 387 ft. high. In front is a statue of Louis XIY.’s Marshal Fabert. Marshal Ney’s statue is on the Esplanade, near the Palace of Justice. Riidesheim ( Rheinstein ; Ehrhard), nearly opposite Bingen, has rich wines, far-viewing heights, wild le- gends, and a vast Roman fortress. Farther up is Geisen - heim, with ancient monasteries and rich vineyards. On the heights is Johannisberg, where, on the site of a 234 MAYENCE. Benedictine convent of 1106, tlie Abbot of Eulda built a castle, afterwards granted to Prince Metternicli, and now amid the best vineyards on the Rhine, and com- manding a superb view. Beautiful walks from Rii- deskeim hence, or to Eltcille. The river scenery above Bingen is less interesting, and many travellers go hence to Mayence by rail (f hr.; by steamer, 2J hrs.). Above Geisenheim, well in-shore on the r., is Ingelheim , the site of Charlemagne’s great palace. Eltvilie (on the 1.) has fine villas and venerable ruins, and is 4 M, from the famous warm baths of Rchlangenbad. Erom Bie- brich , rly, to Wiesbaden. Above is Petersau , where Louis the Pious, Charlemagne’s son, died in 840. Mayence ( Hotel de Hollande ; If Angleterre ; Rhein - isclier) is a city of 68,000 inliab., and an important strategic position, commanding the confluence of the Rhine and Main (garrison, 8,000 men). It was the Roman Moguntiacum , fortified by Drusus (b.c. 14), and headquarters of the 14th and 22d Legions. The Cita- del, on their camp-ground, has a monument erected by his soldiers to Drusus, who died here. Pope Zacharias (in 751) made St. Boniface, the English missionary, Archbishop of Mayence (the first German bishopric) ; and after 1250 “ Golden Mayence ” originated and headed the league of 100 Rhenish towns. In 1462 Archbishop Adolph killed the foremost citizens, and Mayence became a mere archiepiscopal town. The French republicans took it in 1792, and it was a French town for 17 years. In 1814 it became Hessian. The Cathedral, begun in 978, and 6 times burned and restored, is a vast structure, with domes and round towers (one 324 ft. high) and splendid brass gates (made in 1135). The interior is very grand, richly frescoed (by Veit), with choirs on E. (1175) and W. (1239), and 56 columns upholding the vaulting (open MAYENCE. 235 till 11.30, and 3-6). There are scores of fine old monu- ments, including one to Fastrada, Charlemagne’s wife. The restored Cloisters , built in 1412, are the finest in W. Germany, and contain Schwanthaler’s monument to the pious minstrel Heinrich von Meissen (died 1318), erected by the women of Mayence in 1842. Thor- waldsen’s statue of Gutenberg, the inventor of printing, stands near the Cathedral ; and the house in which he was born is not far off. St. Stephen's Ch. (1257-1318) and cloisters are on high ground, and the tower overlooks Mayence. The Electoral Palace, built 1627-78, and used by the French for storing hay, is in the N. E. quarter, and contains a rich museum (fee, 1 mk. • free Sun., 9-1, Thurs., 2-5) of Homan-Germanic relics, a library of 100,000 vols., and a Picture-Gallery of 9 rooms, with many fine old paintings (Titian, Murillo, Holbein, etc.). The Grand-Ducal Palace, opposite, was a Lodge of the Teutonic Order, and has an arsenal attached. There are charming walks along the river and in the Neue Anlage park. From the pontoon-bridge leading to the strongly fortified suburb of Castel, see the ancient water-mills, moored to the sunken pillars of Charlemagne’s bridge (793-803). A Run through North Germany. With Frankfort and Wiesbaden. The traveller should now determine whether to hasten on to Switzerland, or (which is much better) spend a few days in Germany, going from Mayence to Frankfort, Weimar, and Berlin ; and thence down to Dresden, Prague, and Vienna ; returning to the Rhineland by Nuremberg, Munich, and Heidelberg. Tourists going direct to Switzerland may pass S. from Mayence, by Worms and Strasburg, to Basle, in 10- 14 hrs., or by Darmstadt, Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, Baden, and the Black Forest. 236 FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. From Majence it is f hr. by rly. (fares, 2 mks. 95 pf. T 1 mk. 95 pf., 1 mk. 30 pf.) to the Prussian city of Frank- fort-on-the-Main ( Hotel de Frankfort ; Be Russie ; Union; Du Nord; D Angleterre; Schwan; De Bruxelles), which has 137,000 inliab., and stands on a mountain- girdled plain. Charlemagne held a council here in 794, and later sovereigns granted high privileges. Prom 1356 to 1806 this was the place of election for the German emperors (beginning with Barbarossa), many of whom were crowned here. It was a free city from 1814 lo 1866, when Prussia annexed it. Frankfort is a handsome and agreeable place, with good society ar ; vast wealth. The ancient Romer, or Town Hall, con- tains the Emperors’ Hall, and the room in which the electors met to choose the emperors. In front, the coronation festivals were given. Up to 1800 no Jews were allowed on this square. In the Cathedral (1238) the coronations took place. The new Archives build- ing has an historical museum. The bridge over the Main (leading to Sachsenhausen), built in 1342, has a statue of Charlemagne. The Saalhof has a chapel of the Carlovingian kings. The Exchange is a very hand- some modern building. The 13th-century chs. of St. Leonhard and St. Nicholas are interesting. The house in which Goethe was born, and where he wrote Werther , is public property. His statue (with bas-reliefs) by Schwanthaler is near the Rossmarkt square ; and there is another in the Town Library (150,000 vols.). The Stddel Institute has a school of fine arts, collections of engravings, drawings, and casts, and several hundred paintings of merit (open daily, 11-2; catalogue, 1 mk.). The Ariadneum contains Dannecker’s famous Ariadne, etc. (open daily, 10-1; 50—7 5 pf.). The Zeil. is the most brilliant street in Frankfort. See Palm Garden, sple,ndid new Opera-House, Natural- History Museum, HOMBURG. — WIESBADEN. 237 &nd Zoological Garden. The Judengasse quarter, where the persecuted Jews lived, 1462-1806, and where the Rothschilds originated, is being modernized. Chains and gates formerly closed the streets at even- ing and on Sundays, and no Jew was allowed outside. From .Frankfort it is f hr, by rly. (fares, 1 mk. 80 pf., 1 mk., 60 pf.) to Homburg ( Four Seasons Hotel ; Be Russie), a celebrated watering-place; on the Taunus Mts. Iron and saline springs in the superb gardens of the Kurhaus (library, reading-room, and fine saloons). Gambling was . abolished here in 1870. See the castle of the Landgraves. If. M. N. on the mts. is a massive Roman fort, built by Germanicus, and a remnant of the wall, 150 M. long, which protected the Rhineland. From Frankfort it is 1 hr. by rly. (fares, 3 inks. 40 pf., 2f mks., lmk. 45 pf.) to Wiesbaden {Nassauer Hof ; Hotel des Quatre Sdisons ; H Angleter re; Rose; Adler), m the lovely valley of the Salzbach, on the vine and grove- clad S. W. spurs of the Taunus Mts. 60,000 visitors annually partake of the warm saline waters, beneficial for rheumatism and gout. Pliny mentions these fontes calidi ; and the camps of the 14th and 22d Legions were near by. The air is very healthy, and the town pretty. Back of the handsome Kursaal is an extensive park, the favorite resort of visitors. See the 2 palaces, the museum, and picture-gallery, the library, the Gov- ernment buildings, and the 5-towered Gothic ch., with its colossal statues. The Heidenmauer, N. W, of the town, is a Roman wall, 650 ft. long, 10 ft. high, and 9 ft. thick. Frankfort to Hanover , Hamburg , and Bremen. From Frankfort a rly. runs N. W. across Hesse (5-8 hrs. ; fares, 16 mks., 12 mks., 8 mks.), by higli-walled Friedberg ; the mineral springs of Nauheim ; the rly. 238 CASSEL. — HANOVER. — BRUNSWICK. junction of Giessen ; and historic Marburg, with its splendid chs. and castle ; to Cass el ( Hotel Schirmer), the beautiful old Hessian capital (70,000 inhab.), with its electoral palaces and vast Museum Friedericianum (200,000 vols. ; myriads of gems, mosaics, weapons, ivories, etc.). In the Bellevue castle is a gallery of several hundred fine old paintings. Wilhelmshohe, 4 M. distant, is a sumptuous palace, in a park famous for its fountains and cascades. Here Napoleon III. was imprisoned in 1870-71. Prom Cassel it is 4-5 lirs. (13 mks. 40 pf., 10 mks. 10 pf.6 mks.70 pf.),by Gottingen, famous for its univer- sity, to Hanover ( Victoria; Royal; Union), a handsome city of 150,000 inhab., once capital of Hanover, and since 1866 a Prussian provincial capital. See the palaces of the Hanoverian kings ; the Royal Library , of 170,000 vols. ; the handsome Theatre ; the Museums ; and nu- merous statues and monuments. N. W. is the imposing Palace of the Guelphs ; also, Herrenkausen , the subur- ban palace and park of the dethroned dynasty. Hano- ver is 10 hrs. from Rotterdam, oi> the route to Berlin ; and 7-10 hrs. from Berlin, via Brunswick (fares, 3 mks. 80 pf., 2^ mks.) and Magdeburg. Brunswick (Schra- der’s Hotel ; Deutsches), the residence of the Duke of Brunswick, with '94,000 inhab., has a mediaeval air, with its ancient Gothic Town Hall ; St. Martin’s Ch., rich in carvings ; the Cathedral, built by the Crusader Henry the Lion in 1172 ; the bronze Lion monument (1166) ; etc. The splendid new Ducal Palace is near the Ducal Museum, in which are 900 pictures, and countless other relics and curios. See also the War Monument and the Theatre. The fortifications have been replaced by promenades and gardens. Magdeburg ( Central Hotel) on the Elbe, has 157,000 inhab. , and a very cele- brated Cathedral (1208). Great cannon-foundry near. HAMBURG. — BREMEN. 239 From Hanover it is 112 M. (4-5 lirs ; fares 16 mks. 30 pf., 12£ mks., 8 mks.) by Luneburg , with its ancient houses and chs., to Hamburg ( Hamburger Hof ; Victoria ; St. Petersburg), which (with Altona) has 510,000 inhab., and ranks after London, Liverpool, Glasgow, and Antwerp as a commercial city. It is on the lower Elbe, and is the chief of the 3 Hanseatic towns. Charlemagne founded a castle here (805), and Louis the Pious an archbishopric ; but the city is now all modern. There are vast and crowded quays, shipyards, rlys., docks, a busy Exchange, a Town Li- brary (250,000 vols.), museums, monuments, and a good Art-Gallery. The Binnen-Alster is a charming water- park, 1 M. around, surrounded by quays and prome- nades, lines of trees, and blocks of handsome houses and hotels, and enlivened by many pleasure-boats and groups of swans. From Hamburg, trains run S. W., 76 M. (2j hrs.; fares, 104 mks., 7 f mks., 4-f mks.), across a poor, flat country, to Bremen ( Hillmann’s Hotel; Be V Europe ; Du Nord ), another great Hanseatic commercial town, on the Weser River, with 122,000 inhab. See the richly decorated Rathhaus (1410) ; the frescoed Rathskeller , famous for wines ; the 11th-century Romanesque Cathe- dral ; the Kunsthalle , with pictures ; the splendid new Gothic Exchange ; and colossal Roland statue (1412). Frankfort to Weimar , Leipsic , and Berlin. Time required, 12-14 hrs. ; fares, 43 mks. 40 pf., 32 mks. 60 pf., 22 mks. 40 pf. This route passes through Fulda, an ancient ecclesiastical capital ; and in 5-6 hrs. reaches Eisenach ( Grossherzog von Sachsen), the quiet town where Luther went to school. Near by is the Wartburg, a lofty Romanesque castle, founded in 1070, 240 GOTHA. — WEIMAR. — LEIPSICk and lately restored and richly frescoed. Here Luther was hidden, 1521-22, aud many relics of his sojourn are shown. 4 hrs. S., beyond the Ducal capital of Mei- ningenfis Coburg {Victoria), a handsome Franconian city, with a remarkable castle. On the Berlin route is Gotha {Deutscher Hof), a pleasant ducal city, with 26,000 inhab. In and near the great Friedenstein Valace are remarkable collections of antiquities, coins, objects of art, sculptures, engrav- ings, a library of 200,000 vols., and a famous picture- gallery. The Thuringian Forest lies around the Eisenach- Qotha rly. Erfurt {Romischer Kaiser) is an ancient Prussian fortress, with 53,000 inhab., a high-placed Gothic Cathedral, and the Augustinian Monastery in which Luther became a monk in 1505. Farther on toward Berlin is Weimar {Erbprinz ; Russischer Hof), capital of the grand-duchy of Saxe-Weimar, an ancient town of 20,- 000 inhab. Goethe lived here 56 years, until his death in 1832 ; and his collections are shown. Schil- ler’s house is open daily. Herder and Wieland also lived at Weimar. Statues of all these are in the town and frescos from their works adorn the handsome Grand-Ducal Palace. Their busts and many curiosi- ties are in the Grand-Ducal Library (170,000 vols. ; open daily). The Museum (open April-Sept., 10-4) has many curios and paintings. The StadtJcirche (1400) has a Crucifixion by Cranach, and the tomb of Herder. Schiller and Goethe are buried in the cemetery, S. of the town. Farther towards Berliu is Leipsic {Hotel Hauffe ; De Russie ; Palmbaum; De Prime; Kaiserhof), a city of 225,000 inhab., the centre of the German book-trade, the seat of high imperial tribunals, and the place where 3 great fairs are held yearly, drawing many traders even from Asia and LEIPSIC. — BERLIN. 241 the Levant. 30,000 strangers come to these fairs ; and the annual sales (largely of furs, leather, and. cloths) ex ceed $50,000,000. These picturesque exchanges have been carried on for over 700 years. There are 300 booksellers and 80 printing-offices here. The Museum has Thorwaldsen’s Ganymede, and an immense collec- tion of paintings and engravings, mostly modern (open Sun., Wed., and Fri., free ; Tues., Thurs., and Sat., imk.). The Augusteum is the seat of the University, which was founded in 1402, and has 3,200 students and a library of 350,000 vols. and 4,000 MSS. See the New Theatre , with beautiful Corinthian facade ; the Pleis- senburg citadel; the Old House, in the Grimma’sche Strasse ; Auerbach's Keller , where part of the scene of Goethe’s Faust is laid; the house in the Bruhl where Richard Wagner was born ; i\\z Ethnographical Museum ,. etc. In 4 Oct. days of 1813, 300,000 Prussians, Aus- trians, and Russians, headed by their sovereigns, de- feated Napoleon and 140,000 Frenchmen here,, and drove them out of Leipsic. 2,000 cannon were en- gaged, and over 90,000 men were killed and wounded. Oil the Leipsic-Magdeburg-Hamburg rly. is Halle ( Stadt Hamburg ; Kronprinz) , with 91,000 inhab., and a famous university (1, 000 students). In the market- place is the ancient Rathhaus, the many-towered Ch. of Our Lady (1530), a clock-tower 276 ft. high, and a statue of Handel (born at Halle, 1685). Berlin, {Hotel Royal ; Kaiser Hof; Metropole ; St. Peters - burg ; Continental; Du Nord ; De Rome; Imperial; Behren's ), the capital of Prussia and of Germany (1,500,000 inhab.), is 3-4 lirs. from Leipsic, on an uninteresting sandy T plain, by the river Spree. Origi- 242 BERLIN. iially a Wendish fishing- village, and afterwards a Han- seatic town, it was notably improved by the Great Elector (1640-88), and by Frederick the Great and liis predecessor (1713-86). Since 1861, when the present King was crowned, the population has doubled, and the arts and trades have flourished remarkably. The best part of the city may be seen by walking down the Unter den Linden, a broad avenue, 1 M. long, with double rows of lime-trees, from the Bran- denburg Gate to the Royal Palace. The Gate is ail imitation of the Propylsea at Athens, crowned by a fine statue of Victory with horses. This was taken to Paris in 1807 as a trophy. Outside is the Thier- garten ; and inside is the Pariser-Platz, with Prince Bliicher’s palace on the S., and the French Embassy on the N. There are several other embassies and palaces on the Linden, with various government buildings. The Florentine palace of Count Redern contains a fine picture-gallery. See also the Aquarium , the splendid arcade of the Kaiser- Gallerie, and the Cafe Bauer. The bronze statue of Frederick the Great, by Rauch, is called the finest of its kind in Europe. The King is on horseback, in his coronation-robes ; and the lofty pedestal is surrounded with life-size statues of his gen- erals, princes, etc. To the S. is the Emperor s Palace , in which is the Royal Library (open daily, 11-4), with 900,000 vols. and 15,000 MSS. N. is the Academy of Art , where exhibitions take place in Sept, and Oct. ; and the Academy of Science ; also the University (3,000 students), once Prince Henry’s palace, and partly en- closing gardens in which are statues of the Humboldts. Fine anatomical, mineral, and zoological collections here ; and a library of 100,000 vols. The Opern Platz contains statues of 5 generals, by Rauch, and is bounded by the Palace, University, Opera House , and BERLIN. 243 St. Hedwig's Ch ., an imitation of the Roman Pantheon, farther E., on the Linden, at the r. is the Crown- Prince's Palace ; and at the 1. is the Royal Guard- House (military music daily, 11-12), a eopy of a Roman fortified gate. Back of this is the 'Singing- Academy ; and on one side is the handsome Arsenal , with many rare trophies of war. Close by is the Schloss Bridge, adorned with 8 groups of statuary, and leading to the lust gar ten , a park in which stands an equestrian statue of Frederick William III. On one side is the Royal Palace, a vast double quadrangle, built since 1540, and containing 600 rooms (open daily* 10-1). See Swiss Hall, King’s Hall, Red-Eagle Hall* Throne Hall (throne of solid silver, 8 ft. high), Black Eagle Hall, Picture Gallery (fine modern battle-paint- mgs), White Saloon (statues of the 12 Electors), and Chapel, rich in alabaster and gems, and splendidly frescoed. The adjacent Cathedral contains the royal tombs. Opposite the palace is the Old Museum, the finest building in the city, with a grand Ionic portico, adorned with colossal bronze groups, and richly fres- coed halls (open daily, 10-4). See the vast collections ot antiquities ; the halls of Greek, Roman, medieval, and modern sculptures ; and the Hall of the Heroes. The New Museum is entered from the Old, and contains Kaulbach s famous mural paintings, the Egyptian mu- seum, an immense collection of casts, 12 cabinets of Northern antiquities, 4 rooms of objects of art, and 500,000 engravings. It has a Renaissance fa?ade to the E. ; and opposite is the new Corinthian temple of the National Gallery (open daily, 11-3), which con- tains a magnificent and world-renowned collection of ancient and modern paintings. The Friedrichs-Stadt is the business centre of Berlin, and the streets in this section are interesting. 244 BERLIN. The Theatre is a classic structure, on the Schiller-Platz, with several fine bronze groups; in front, a noble statue of Schiller. Tiie Wilhelmstrasse contains notable palaces ; and in the Wilhelms -Platz are statues, of 6 of Frederick the Great’s generals. The Palace of Prince Charles, fronting here, has a museum of weapons. On the busy Leipziger-Strasse are the War and Navy Offices and the Hall of ilie Imperial Diet (built in 1871). Just beyond the Leipziger-Platz (several statues) is the Potsdam Gate , near the Botanical Gardens (1 mk.) and the Industrial Museum (open daily, 10-3). Near the Halle Gate is the Belle Alliance Platz, with the lofty granite Column of Peace (1840), surrounded by splen- did marble groups, f M. outside is the Kreuzberg, with a tall iron obelisk. S. of the Schloss-Briicke is the Academy of Architec- ture (600 students), with museum. N. is the Schinkel- Platz , with 3 bronze statues. The Artists' Union has a large picture-gallery ; and near it (92-93 W all-St.) is Ravene r s Gallery of modern pictures* The Kurfur- sten Bridge leads from the square S. of the Royal Palace into old Berlin, where are the Imperial Post- Office and the 14th-century Ch. of St. Mary. The RatJihaus (open 11-3) is an immense Romanesque building of brick (1860-70), with a tower 276 ft. high, and several handsome halls. Underneath is the Raths- keller , a great refreshment-room. Opposite the Museum is the Bxchange } a sumptuous Renaissance building, with the greatest hall in Berlin, richly frescoed. Be- yond the Hercules Bridge (on which are statues by Schadow).is Monbijou, a beautiful royal palace, in which is an historical . museum (daily, 10-5). Near by is the great Synagogue, Moorish in style. The splendid Konigs-Platz adjoins the Thiergarten, and contains the Monument of Victory , 190 ft. high* POTSDAM. 245 commemorating the battles of 1870-71. The RaczynsH Palace , on the W., has a famous picture-gallery (open daily, 11-3). The Avenue of Victory; Berlin’s favorite promenade, leads through the Thiergarten, a park 2 M. long and f M. wide, with many ponds and groves ot large trees. Here are beer-gardens and summer- theatres, and monuments. At the end is a large Zoological Garden. Horse-cars run through it (3 M. ; \ hr.) to Charlottenburg, a large town with a Palace (1699) in a handsome garden, and a Mausoleum , with sculptures by illustrious masters. In Berlin’s Old- Trinity Cemetery, Mendelssohn is buried ; and in Trinity Cemetery , Schleiermacher and Neander. Cornelius rests in Hedwids Cemetery ; Rauch, Schadow, Schinkel, Hegel, and Fichte, in the Old Dorotheenstadt Cemetery ; and the Humboldts, at Tegel. Potsdam is 16 M. from Berlin (^ hr. ; fares, 2 inks.. TO pf., 1 mk. 60 pf., 1 mk. 5 pf.), among wooded hills and the lakelike expanses of the Havel. Here is the Sanssouci Palace , built by Frederick the Great, and full of reminiscences of him. Near by are the Picture- Gallery, the Orangery (adorned with fine statuary), and the Sicilian Garden. The New Palace (1750) has 200 richly adorned rooms, with fine paintings, and a noteworthy Marble Saloon. The Marble Palace is N. of Potsdam, and has many paintings. Babelsberg is a new Gothic palace, with rich art-treasures. The Royal Palace (1660) is full of relics of the Great Frederick. The Garrison Church contains his tomb and military trophies. The Church of Peace is a noble Ionic basilica, with masterpieces of sculpture. The famous Sanssouci fountains play on summer Sunday afternoons. There are several chateaux of princes aear Potsdam (50.000 inhab.), 246 DRESDEN. Dresden and Prague. Express-trains, Berlin to Dresden, 3 hrs. (108 M. ; 15 mks. 70 pf., 11 mks. 70 pf., 8 mks. 20 pf.). Dresden (Hotel Bellevue ; Victoria ; Central ; Grand Union ; Berlin ; Rome ; Rheinischer Hof ; Gotha; Webers; Be France ), “The German Flor- ence,” has 246,000 inhab., and has been the capital of Saxony since 1485. Many British and American fami- lies dwell here, induced by the abundant facilities for culture and amusement, and also by the cheapness of living. The Elbe is crossed by 2 stone bridges, and bordered by the popular promenade, the Briihl Ter- race, adorned with statuary and trees. Here front the Synagogue, the Art Academy, the Exhibition Buildings, and the Court Ch. (famous music, Sun., 11-12 and 4) ; and the Botanical Garden , the new Law Courts , St. John's Ch ., and the Maurice Monument are near by. Near the Court Ch. are the new Theatre (with statues) and the Guard House. The Palace (1534) is an irregular double quadrangle, with a tower 361 ft. high, and a richly frescoed Throne Boom. The Green- Vault (9-2 daily; catalogue, 1 mk.) contains the largest existing collection of objects of art, bronzes, ivory carvings, mosaics, enamels, gems, crystal, and magnificent plate ; also the regalia of Poland and Sax* ony, superb state swords, and precious stones of enor- mous value ; and works of Diirer, Angelo, and Cellini. The Museum, near the Theatre, is a Renaissance building, decorated with statues and sculptures, and containing the finest picture-gallery N. of Italy (open daily; catalogue, 2J mks.). Here are 2,400 paintings, including the Si stine Madonna, Correggio’s La Notte, and Titian’s Tribute Money ; and choice works of SAXON SWITZERLAND. 247 Murillo, Diirer, Teniers, Veronese, etc. ; also, 350,000 engravings, a great museum of casts, collections in natural history and mineralogy, and the most interest- ing Historical Museum in Germany (ancient weapons, armor, furniture, and trophies of war). See the Eng- lish ch. ; the stone-domed Ch. of Our Lady; the Cross Ch., with tower 346 ft. high, and fountains and statues in the streets. Monument to the War of 1870-71, in the Old Market. The Japanese Palace, across the Elbe, contains the Royal Library, with 275,000 vols., 4,000 MSS., and many rare old books and maps (free Wed. and Sat., 10-12; other days, \ mk.) ; the Collection of Porcelain (15,000 pieces of Dresden, Sevres, and Ori- ental wares ; open daily) ; and collections of coins and antiquities. In the rear is the pretty Japanese Garden y near which Korner was born and Schiller dwelt. The Grosse Garten is a royal park of 300 acres, wherein the French and Prussians fought in 1813. Here is the Zoological Garden; also a chateau with Museum of Antiquities , and Rietschel Museum of sculptures (both open daily). Schlegel and Weber are buried in the Catholic Cemetery. The monument where Gen. Moreau was mortally wounded is 1| M. S. ; and the Moritzburg , a royal hunting-lodge, is 6M.N. Pillnitz (7 M.) is a handsome royal chateau. Many charming suburban excursions. The Saxon Switzerland is a beautiful mt. region, 4-500 square M. in area, filled with grotesque sand- stone peaks and gorges, and traversed by the Elbe. A 2-days’ tour leads from Dresden to Potzscha (f hr. by rly.) ; thence (1 J hr.) to the Bastei, a hotel-crowned peak, overlooking the whole region and the Elbe valley . thence (5 hrs.) to Schandau , a summer-resort (8 hotels) in the heart of the mts. ; and thence (1 day) by the 248 PRAGUE. Lichtenhain Fall and the Kuhstall and Prebischthor peaks, to Konigstein , a lofty and imposing Saxon for- tress. It is 5-7 hrs. (fares, 18 mks. 70 pf., 14 mks. 10 pf., 9 mks. 40 pf.) up the Elbe valley and through the Saxon Switzerland, by Pima and Konigstein , with their fortresses, and Bodenbach (2^ hrs. from the Sckneeberg , and opposite the handsome castle of Teschen ), from Dresden to Prague ( Englischer Hof; Be Saxe ; Schwarzes Ross ; Planer Stern y Victoria ), the ancient capital of Bohe- mia (250,000 inliab.), picturesquely situated on hills near the Moldau River, f of the people are Bohemians, and the Germans are very unpopular. The city was founded by the Duchess Libussa. Here Huss and Jerome preached the Reformation, which took firm root in Bohemia until the Protestant army was crushed, just outside of Prague, in 1620, by the Bavarian forces of the Roman-Catholic League. The palace of the Bohemian kings is now an Austrian barrack ; and the old Hussite ch., the Tegnkirche, containing Tycho Brahe’s tomb, is now Roman. In front of the Rath- haus 27 Protestant Bohemian nobles were executed, in 1620 ; and 11 of Wallenstein’s officers, in 1633. See the Palace of Count Clam Gallas ; the Gothic Pulcer- thurrn tower ; the great Jesuit College ; the ancient University, founded in 1348 ; the Bohemian National Museum; the Rossmarkt, a grand street adorned with statues; the Neustadt Rathhaus , where the Hussite wars began ; the Jews' Quarter , with 9 synagogues and a very ancient cemetery; and the Wysschrad citadel. The Charles Bridge (1357-1507), with 16 arches, towers of defence (on one of which the heads of the Protestant nobles were exposed for 10 years), and 30 statues of saints, crosses the Moldau to the splendid Radetzky Monument (made from Italian cannon) and CARLSBAD. — TEPLITZ. 249 the Jesuit Ch. On the rocky heights above is the mar- vellous Hradschin, where stands the Cathedral (1344 -85), containing the marble and alabaster mausoleum (1589) of the Bohemian kings; the tombs of St. Adal- bert, St. Yitus, St. Wenzel, and several Sclavonic kings, and many rare mosaics and paintings. The great Imperial Palace (open daily, 11-1, 1 11.) con- tains portraits, ancient balls, and the Council Chamber from which the imperial councillors were thrown, causing the Thirty Years’ War. In the Sternberg Palace is a collection of 350-400 paintings (open daily). The vast Czernin Palace is now a barrack. Near it is a Capuchin monastery, with a chapel copied after the Casa Santa at Loretto. Higher up is the wealthy and imposing Abbey of Strahow, with the tombs of St. Norbert and Gen. Pappenheim, a painting by Diirer, a fine library, and splendid views over Prague, the Moldau plain, and the Giant Mts. Below the Belvedere , an imperial villa (1536) with Bohemian historical frescos, are Wallenstein’s Palace (1636) and the Nostitz Palace , containing 400 paintings. Carlsbad ( Angers Hotel; De Russie ; Stadt Han- nover ; Para dies), 6-7 hrs. rly. ride W. of Prague, is visited by over 20,000 people yearly, who find the sul- phur and saline waters beneficial, and the pretty scen- ery of the Tepl glens and pine woods very charming. Teplitz ( Stadt London ; Post), 3-4 hrs. from Dres- den, and 4-5 hrs. from Prague, is another famous watering-place, with warm alkaline springs, used for bathing. The scenery is mountainous and picturesque ; and ruined castles, hill-top inns, and rich abbeys abound. Prom Prague to Munich is a ride of 11-12 hrs. (38 mks. 90 pf., 30 mks. 60 pf., 21^ mks.). Prom Prague you can go to Vienna by night-train (217 M. ; 8-10 hrs. ; fares, 18 mks. 70 pf., 13 mks. 70 pf.), via 250 VIENNA. Tabor and Gmiind. Berlin to Breslau and Vienna, 18-20 hrs. Dresden to Znaim and Vienna, 14 hrs. Vienna. Hotels. — Imperial; Archduke Charles; Grand; Metropole ; Be France ; Frankfurt ; Meissl ; Munsch ; London; Klomser ; Be V Europe ; Wei- sses Ross ; Victoria ; Englischer Hof Restaurants. — Vienna is an expensive town, and a few hints may be useful. There is no obligation to take more than the first breakfast in the hotels where you lodge. Sacher’s , near the Opera, is a capital restaurant ; Breying's, in the Graben ; Dreher’s, close to the Opera ; and some of the cafe -restaurants on the Ring, are good. The Viennese sup from 9 to 11 ; and the traveller should not fail to take supper in one of the concert -halls, frequented by very good society. The table -Ihdte is not general. Very good din- ners can be had at the restaurants, at fixed prices. The Austrian wines most in use are the Voslauer (red) and the Gum- poldskirchener (white). The Hungarian wines are Erlauer, Carlowitzer, and Ofener (red) ; and Tokayer and Ruster (white). Carriages (2-horse), 1 fl. for a drive within the city limits. 11 fl. an hr.; 1-horse, 1 fl. 20 kr. an hr. Drivers expect a liberal gratuity. Horse-cars, with smoking- compartments, run around the Ring, the Franz- Joseph - Quai, and across the Aspern Bridge to the Prater (fare, 12kr.). The rly. termini are all joined by a circular connecting line. The capital of Austria and Hungary, with upwards of 1,400,000 inhab., stands on a mountain-walled plain near the Danube Biver, and is one of the handsomest, most enterprising, and most interesting of European cities. Vienna was first a Celtic village ; then a Roman fort, where Marcus Aurelius died (180) ; left a deso- lation by the Huns; made a fief of the empire by Charlemagne; occupied by the Duke of Austria in VIENNA. 251 1156 ; enriched by the Crusades; fortified in 1251; oc- cupied by the Hapsburgs in 1276 ; besieged by the Turks in 1529 and 1683; occupied by the French in 1805 and 1809 ; and in the power of Prussia in 1866. The Church of St. Stephen, at the centre of Vienna, built of limestone. 1300-1510, and restored in 1860. The nave is 354 ft. long and 89 feet high ; and its rich groined roof rests on huge pillars, adorned with 100 statuettes. See the old imperial burial-vault, the tomb of Prince Eugene of Savoy, the stone pulpit (1512), the sarcophagus in the Thekla Choir, the carved choir-stalls, and the stained windows. Great catacombs beneath. On the outside, see Giant’s, Eagle’s, and Bishop’s Doors, tomb of the Meistersanger, pulpit of Capistranus, and Heathen towers. The tower is 453 ft. high (20 kr.), and the guides point out thence the battle-fields of Wagram and Essling. At the corner of the Graben, the chief business and shop- ping street, is the Stock am Risen , a pine-tree stump full of nails, driven on account of an ancient custom. In the Graben is the grotesque Trinity Column (1693). The Kohlmarkt is a street of shops, leading to the Im- perial Palace. The Ring is the magnificent bouPr vard, 165 ft. wide aiid 2 M. long, which (with 1 the Quay on the Danube Canal) surrounds the inner town, and occupies the place of the old ramparts and 'glacis. Beginning at the Aspern Bridge, it passes between the great barracks and the Custom House. The next section, the Stuben-Ring , passes the handsome new Austrian Museum (open daily), with 9 rooms, crowded with choice works in gold, brass, iron, ivory, bronze, tapestry, leather, etc., and paintings and stat- uary. This German S. Kensington is joined by a corridor to the Technical School , near which is a statue of Pallas Athene. The Park-Ring runs between the 252 VIENNA. pretty Stadt Park, where the Strausses may often be heard, and the Horticultural Palace, behind which are the splendid modern palaces of the Duke of Coburg and the Archduke William. The Kolowrat-Ring passes the Casino (the club of the nobility) and the Gothic Academie Gymnasium. Prom the Schwartzenberg-Platz, with its monument and ducal palaces, the Karnthner- Rina passes the Imperial and Grand Hotels, the beauti- ful building of the Musical Union, and the Renaissance Artists' House (exhibitions of paintings). The busy Opern-Ring leads by the magnificent Opera House, the best in Germany, with sumptuous frescos and decorations; and the Palace of the Archduke Albert, in which is the Albertina (open Mon. and Tliurs., 9-2), a collection of 10,000 books, 200,000 engravings, and hundreds of drawings by Raphael, Rubens, Diirer, etc. The Burg-Ring is between the huge new buildings of the Imperial Museums and the Imperial Palace. The Franzens-Rihg passes the Yolksgarten, a popular park, with a temple containing Canova’s Theseus. Near it is the superb Votive Ch., commemorating the Em- peror’s escape from assassination in 1853, and adorned with twin spires, abounding in statues, and 345 ft. high, and wonderful stained windows. Near by are vast hospitals, unrivalled in Europe ; and the great new buildings of the University, the Gothic Rathhaus, the Courts of Justice, the Hofhurg Theatre, the Mili- tary Offices, and the classic Parliament House. The Schotten-Ring contains the Exchange, a new Renais- sance structure (cost $2,500,000), the vast Police Office, and the Stiftungshaus erected on the site of the Ring Theatre which was burned with great loss of life in 1881, and leads to the Danube Canal. The Hofburg, or Imperial Palace , the home of Austria’s sovereigns for 6 centuries, is a vast and irreg- VIENNA. 25;i ular group of buildings, with a labyrinth of courts, gates, and corridors. See the magnificent Knights'* Rail , in the Residenz; the apartments of Maria Theresa; the Riding-School ; the Guard-House (military music daily, at 1) ; the Augustinian Ch., with its monuments ; the Hofgarten; and the statues of Francis I., Joseph II., the Archduke Charles, Prince Eugene, etc. The Imperial Library (open daily, 9-4) contains 600,000 vols., 20,000 MSS., and 300,000 engravings. The Natural-History and Mineral Cabinets are very inter- esting. The Treasury (open almost every day) is the most interesting in Europe, and contains the entire regalia of Austria, coronation -robes, jewel-studded dec- orations, jewelry, caskets of gold, silver, and crystal, Napoleon I.’s regalia as King of Italy, the sabre of Haroun-al-Raschid, the crown and sword of Charle- magne, the lance which pierced the Saviour’s side, etc. Among the jewels is the Florentine diamond, valued at $300,000. The homely Capuchin Ch. contains the Imperial Yault (open daily; gratuity for the poor), where you may see the coffins in which lie Maria Theresa, Marie Louise, Maximilian of Mexico, and other sovereigns. Near by is the Imperial Printing-Office (open Tues. and Fri., 9-12). The University (4,000 students) is in the Fran zens- Ring. The suburban Liechtenstein Palace (open daily, 9-6) has a gallery of 1,600 paintings, with many remarkable works of Rubens and Yan Dyck. The Schonborn Palace (Mon., Wed., and Fri., 9-3) has a famous collection of pictures ; and the Harrach Pal ace (Wed. and Sat., 10-4) contains 400 interesting paintings. There are many very interesting ancient and modern chs. in Yienna, many palaces, and civic and national institutions, monuments, squares, and bridges, which should be seen. 254 VIENNA. The Belvedere, an Imperial residence, built in 1693- 1724, and once inhabited by Prince Eugene of Savoy, has a beautiful French garden. Its gallery formerly contained about 1,500 paintings, including a remark- able collection of early Italian and Venetian works, and Diirer’s world-renowned “ Trinity,” all of which were removed to the Imperial Art Museum in 1891. The other of the two buildings forming the Belve- dere, known as the Lower Belvedere, contained the famous Ambras collection, removed in 1889 to the Art-History Museum. Near by is the vast Arsenal, with the richly frescoed Hall of Fame, and thousands of military relics and trophies of the Turkish, French, Swedish, and Italian wars. Here also are great bar- racks, gun-factory, and cannon-foundry. The Prater is an immense forest-park on the E. (laid out in 1766), with cafes, band-music, theatres, and avenues. On May and J une afternoons the fashion- able world of Austria may be seen driving in the Haupt- Allee. Wurstel Prater is the part frequented by the humbler classes. In the cemetery of Wahring , 1-J M. N. W. of the city, Beethoven, Schubert, aud Grillpar- zer are buried; Mozart lies at Si. Marx, and Gluck at Matzleinsdorf. Schonbrunn (horse-cars or omnibus) is a splendid suburban imperial residence, where Napoleon I. had his headquarters, and where his son died (1832). Beautiful gardens, fountains, statuary, and flowers. On the W. are the villas of - Hietzing. Laxenburg (f hr. by rly.) is another imperial chateau (built in 1377), with many interesting halls and monuments. The Kahlenberg, N. of Vienna, overlooks the Danube plain, the Carpathians, and the Styrian Alps. There are many other lovely excursions in the environs. PESTH. 255 SOUTHEASTERN EUROPE. T HIS interesting region is easily reached from Vi- enna, whence steamers descend the Danube to Pesth in 12-13 hrs. (starting at 6.30 a. m. ; fares, 7 fl., 4f II.). Pesth to Vienna, by rly., 7-8 hrs. (fares 9 fl. 60 kr. , 7 fl. 80 kr. by express). The steamer passes Lobau island, where Napoleon and 150,000 soldiers, with 700 cannon, were encamped in 1809; and the cas- tles of Deutsch-Altenburg,Hainburg, and Theben; and in 2J- hrs. reaches Presburg ( Gruner Baum; Hirsch), the former capital, a city of 48,000 inhab., on the foot-hills of the little Carpathians. In the Cathedral (1090) the Hungarian kings were crowned. Before it is a statue of St. Martin. See the Bathhaus (1288); the beautiful Franciscan Ch. (1293); and the Museums. From the ruins of the imperial palace, on the Schloss- berg , there is a lovely view over the villages and vine- yards. Beautiful excursions in the vicinity. Below Presburg the shores are flat. Komorn is a powerful fortress (14,000 inhab.); Gran (10,000 in- hab.) has a lofty-domed cathedral; Wissegrad, a ven- erable fortress, ruined by the Turks; and Waitzen, a vast modern cathedral. Pesth ( Grand Hotel Hungafia; Queen of England; He V Orient; Erzherzog Stephan; National; Centred; Jdgerhorn ), called also Buda-Pest, has, with Ofen (or Buda ), its trans-Danubian suburb, 600,000 inhab. It is the capital of Hungary, and the seat of the Imperial Diet and the Courts. In commerce it is very enter- prising, and has a vast trade in grain. The beautiful modern Renaissance Academy (open, free, Bun. , Wed. , Fri.) contains the great National Gallery (Esterhazy), 256 BELGRADE. — BAZIASCH. with 800 paintings, 50,000 engravings, and 22,000 drawings. The National Museum (9-1) is ricli in Roman, Transylvanian, and Hungarian antiquities, and has 200 Italian and Dutch paintings. The magnificent Re dout e Buildings are in Saracenic architecture. See the new palace of the Diet ( Landhaus ) ; the promenades along the Danube ; the Exchange ; the colossal sculp- tured Bulls in front of the market; the new Custom House ; the Margarethen-Insel, a pretty island-park (cafes and military music) ; and various new national ouildings. A splendid suspension-bridge runs to Ofen* once a Roman colony, and for 150 years a Turkish town. Cars ascend an inclined plane to the new and costly Royal Palace and the great modem fortress. There are famous baths in Ofen, founded by the Turks* near one of which is a mosque. Return to Vienna by rly.; or descend the Danube for Belgrade, Bucharest, and Constantinople. Steamers from Pesth to Orsova in 50 hrs. (fares, 24 fl. 10 kr., 16 fl. 10 kr.), - — a superb trip, passing Mohacs (12,000 inhab.), where the Turks conquered Hungary (1526) ; Neusatz , a fortified modern town, with 19,000 inhab. ; Peterwardein , where Peter the Hermit preached the Eirst Crusade ; Carlowitz , with a Greek cathedral ; and Semlin, where is Hunyadi’s castle. Belgrade ( Hotel de Paris'), the capital of Servia, has 40,000 inhab., a quaint Oriental town, with narrow streets curving under a fortress-crowned rock. See the Konak of the Prince; the busy street Milan: the ihosques. The Turks evacuated Belgrade in 1867* 4-5 hrs. below is Baziasch, the end of the rly. from Pesth (fares, 36 fl. 41 kr., 27 fl. 29 kr., 18 fl. 16 kr.). Travellers often come down this way, and take steamer at Baziasch, where the Danube enters the magnificent scenery of the Carpathians. On the r., in this tre* ORSOVA. — BUCHAREST. 257 mendous defile, is the ruined fortress of Golubacz , and ancient Roman forts. At Drencova the rapids are entered. Servia is on the r., Hungary on the 1. Through the Defile of Kasan the river is 500-600 ft. wide, between immense rocky cliffs. Trajan’s Roman road is on the r. bank ; and his inscription, commemo- rating the Dacian campaign, is near the end. Orsova (K'onig von Ungarri) is a pretty Wallachian village, just above the famous Iron Gates, where the Danube plunges through a rocky canon 1^ M. long. A rly. runs from Pesth to Orsova (305 M. ; fares, 25 R. 65 kr., 19 fl. 22 kr., 12fl. 80kr.), by Temesvar (32,000 inhab.). From Vienna to Bucharest by this favorite route, 29-30 hrs. (fares, 171 fr. 80 c., 13TJfr. ; the Roumanian currency is like that of France). The through journey from Pesth to Constantinople (3 days ; fares, food included, 108^6., 75^ fl.) is by rly. to Bayisch, thence by express -steamer to Rustchuk, rly. to Varna, and steamer down the Black Sea. From Giurgevo , opposite Rustchuk, rly. to Bucharest. Vienna to Bucharest. — Fares 16 fl. 62 kr., 12 fl. 70 kr., 9 fl. 79 kr., to Cracow ( Victoria ; Saxe), once the capital of Poland, annexed to Austria in 1846. Here is a fine cathedral, with the tombs of the Polish kings ; and a huge mound made of earth, erected by the people in honor of Kosciuszko. Fares, 16J fl., 12 fl. 18 kr., 6| fl., to Lemberg {Hotel de France ; H Angleterre), the capital of Galicia, with 127,000 inhab. and a large university. Lemberg to Czernowit z, 12 fl. 64 kr., 9 fl. 47 kr., 4 fl. 92 kr. T Czernowitz to Roman, fares proportional ; Roman to Bucharest, 56 fl. 20 kr., 42J fl., 28 fl. 10 kr. Bucharest {Hotel Frascati), the capital of the kingdom of Roumania, “ the Paris of the East,” has 221,000 inhab., and is a semi- Oriental town, divided 258 GRATZ. — TRIESTE. into the Yellow, Red, Green, Black, and Blue districts, or wards. See the Palace, Theatre, War-Office, Uni- versity, the Ch. and Monastery of Radu Yod (1572), the parks, the equestrian statue of Michael III., and some of the clis. Vienna to Gratz and Trieste. Leaving Vienna at 7 a.m., one reaches Trieste in 14 J hrs. (fares, 33 fl. 82 kr., 24 fl. 52 ki\), crossing the Semmering Pass by a wonderfully picturesque rly., with 30 tunnels and viaducts ; 25 M. of this line cost nearly $8,000,000. Semmering stat. is 2,892 ft. above the sea ; and here the rly. passes through the crowning ridge by a tunnel 1 M. long, and descends through the narrow Styrian valleys by Bruck, where the rly. to Venice diverges, and by a score of castles, to Gratz (Elephant ; Goldnes Ross), the capital of Styria (100,000 inhab.), a pretty, well-situated, and growing town, where many retired Austrian officers live. The Castle is 400 ft. above Gratz, and commands a grand view. See the Hall of the Styrian Estates, the Cathedral (1446), the Imperial Mausoleum, and the Johanneum Palace, with its library and picture-gallery. Beyond Gratz the line traverses a picturesque mt. region, full of historical interest. At Steinbriick a branch diverges to Agram, the capital of Croatia. Earther on is Laibach, the capital of Carniola, with a fine castle and cathedral ; and Adelsberg ( Grand Hotel Adelsberg ; Krone), whence the famous Stqlactite Caverns (f M. W.) may be visited. The long zigzag descent to the Adriatic gives many splendid views. Trieste (Hotel de la Ville ; Delorme ; Enropa ; Vienna), the chief Austrian port (133,000 inhab ), is an Italian city in sentiment and appearance, beautifully LINZ. — SALZBURG. 259 situated on a fortified harbor, and visited by 14,000 vessels yearly, it has a venerable cathedral, a sump- tuous Greek ch., a tall Armenian ch., a far-viewing Capuchin monastery (with castle above), a Ghetto (Jews’ quarter), many palaces, and several statues. The Tergesteum is a vast commercial building, head- quarters of the Austrian Lloyds. The Piazzetta di Ricardo commemorates the imprisonment of Richard Coeur de Lion here. Beautiful drives on the St. An- drea Corso, to Miramar, the palace of Maximilian of Mexico; and to Prosecco, of whose wine Virgil spoke. Steamers run from Trieste down the Istrian and Dalmatian coasts to Zara, Spalatro, Ragusa, Cattaro, Pola, and Fiume ; and to the Ionian and Greek ports, and Constantinople; also to Venice. Rly. to Venice. The Upper Danube, Salzburg, etc. This region is full of beauty and picturesqueness. The descent by steamer from Linz to Vienna requires 8-9 hrs. (7 fi., 4 fl. 30 kr.) ; ascent, 18-20 hrs. The route to N. Germany is by rly. to Linz and Munich. Rly. from Vienna in 117 M. (4J-6 hrs. ; 10 fi. 80 kr., 8 fl. 10 kr.), by Mdlk, with its ancient monastery; and Enm, strongly fortified with the ransom paid by England for Richard Coeur de Lion, and 3 M. from the great Augustinian Abbey of St. Florian ; t'o Linz (JErzherzog Carl ; G-oldner Adler), the capital of Upper Austria (50,000 inliab.), a pretty town, with a museum, castle, and Capuchin ch. 78^ M. S. W. (fares, 7 fl. 13 kr., 5 fl. 35 kr.*, express in 3 hrs.) is Salzburg (Hotel de V Europe ; IP Autriche ; Nelbock ), one of the most beautiful towns in Germany, with an Italian beauty in its flat-roofed houses, fountains, and marble fa£ades, and environs of far-famed picturesque- 260 THE SALZKAMMERGUT. ness. The Palace, Cathedral, and Government build mgs are in the old quarter. Here is Mozart’s birthplace, his house, his statue, and a collection of his MSS. ; also the Ch. and Cemetery of St. Peter, and the Benedic- tine Abbey, with the cellar where Haydn used to enjoy his wine. See the Museum, the Franciscan Ch., the imposing Fortress of Hohen-Salzburg , and the high and woody Monchsberg ; 250 stone steps lead to the monas- tery on the Capuzwerberg . The house of Paracelsus is near the river. The palace of Mirabell , Prince Schwart- zenberg’s chateau of Aigen , and the imperial villa of Helbrumi , are near by. Diligences run 3 times daily (9 fl. 73 kr.) to Wild- bad Gastein (Straubinger ; Gruber ), whose famous warm springs attract thousands of nervous, gouty, and debilitated folk. Beautiful hill-country, abounding in high waterfalls. The Salzkammergut, or “ Austrian Switzerland,” in which the Government has great salt-miues, covers 250 square M. between Salzburg and Styria, and has the finest scenery in Germany, sequestered green valleys, crystal lakes, and far-viewing mts. Diligences run daily from Salzburg (34 M. ; 4 fl.) to the expensive ■watering-place of Ischl ( Kaiserin Elisabeth; Bauer ; Post ; Victoria ), near the centre of this Alpine region, with splendid villas of the Emperor and many nobles. Mud baths and whey baths here. Grand excursions in every direction. From Vienna to Ischl, leave Salzburg line at Lambach , and go by branch rly. to Gmunden (passing near the Traun Falls'), a quiet little summer- resort on the Traun See, t he most beautiful of German lakes. Thence 9 M. by steamer, amid grand lake and mt. scenery, to Langbath (diligence to Ischl, 12 M.). Between Salzburg and Munich (95 M. ; 4-5 hrs. ; 12 mks., 8 mks. 15 kr., 5^ mks.) the rly. traverses a pic- MUNICH. 261 turesque mt. region, passing Rosenheim (branch to Inns- bruck) and the Chiemsee, a pretty lake, 12 X 3 M. in area, with islands and convents, a resort of artists. Munich and the Tyrol. Munich ( Four-Seasons Hotel ; Bellevue ; Englischer - hof; Bavarian; Rheinischerhof ; Maximilian ; Lein- f elder), the capital of Bavaria (350,000 inliab.), is on the Isar river, on a broad, lofty, and barren plain. The climate is variable, and almost severe. Living is cheap, and furnished rooms may be had reasonably for a stay of 2-4? weeks. The Royal Palace, an imitation of the Pitti Palace, contains magnificent frescos from the Odyssey and the Niebelungenlied, and from the lives of Charlemagne, Barbarossa, and the Hapsburgs ; and, in the Throne-Boom, Schwanthaler’s grand statues- of 12 Wittelsbach princes. In the adjacent Old- Residence (1600-16) is the sumptuous Boyal Chapel (open Tues., 9.30-11) ; also the Treasury (Tues. and Eri., 9-11), with the Bavarian regalia, the great blue diamond, and the crowns of Bohemia (captured in 1620), and of the Emperor Henry II. and the Empress Cuni- gunda (1010). The Festsaalhau , with noble portico- and statues, fronts on the Hofgarten , around which run richly frescoed Arcades , containing the Ethnographical Museum and the Art Union. The Hof -Theatre, adorned with many fine statues, is the largest in Germany. The Ludwigs -Strasse is a noble street of palaces,, f M. long, running from the Hall of Generals (an open loggia, with statues) to the Gate of Victory, a triumphal arch erected by Lewis I. to the Bavarian army, with statues and reliefs, and surmounted by a bronze Bavaria, in a chariot drawn by lions. On and near this street: are the Odeon concert-hall ; the Theatine Ch., with the* 26 2 MUNICH. royal tombs ; the equestrian statue of Lewis I. ; the "War Office ; the Library (10-12 daily), • — a Florentine building with fine statues and an imposing stairway, 1,000,000 vols., 25,000 MSS., and literary curios- ities, — the Codex Aureus, Alaric’s breviary, the prayer- books of Diirer and Emperor Lewis, the oldest Niebelungenlied MS., etc. ; the Ludwig skirche, a splendid ch. in Italian style, with Cornelius’s Last J udgment and other frescos ; and a great square, with statues, bounded by the Priests’ Seminary, the Max- Joseph School, and the University (1,400 students). From the Max -Joseph Platz (on which are the Theatre, Poyal Palace, Post-Office, and Max-Joseph’s Statue) the handsome Maximilian-Strasse, f M. long, runs to the Isar, by the Four-Seasons Hotel, the Government buildings, a long square with statues (one of the Massachusetts Count Bumford), and the interest- ing National Museum, to the handsome Maximilia- neum civil-service school, adorned with frescos and statuary. The huge brick Cathedral (1468-88) is 118 ft. high inside, and has towers 357 ft. high, and 30 windows 72 ft. high, several monuments, and a captured Turkish flag. St. Michael's Ch. has a noble dome, and Thorwaldsen’s monument to Eugene Beauharnais, vice- roy of Italy. The Allerheiligenkirche is a magnificent Byzantine ch., rich in colored marbles and frescos on gold ground. St. Boniface , an imitation of a 5th- century basilica, is a very beautiful 4-aisled ch., with round arches supported by 66 monolithic columns of gray Tyrolese marble, gilded roof-timbers, royal tombs, and many frescos by Hess. The statue of Maximilian I. was designed by Thorwaldsen, and made of captured Turkish cannon. Near it is the mediseval Wittelshach Palace , — The Academy of Science , in the old Jesuits’ College, has vast collections of fossils, minerals, coins, MUNICH. 263 casts, etc. See also the statues of Schiller,. Gluck, Orlando di Lasso, and Max Emanuel ; the Marian Column (1638) ; the Obelisk, 100 ft. high, of captured gun-metal, to 30,000 Bavarians who died in the Russian war ; the ancient and imposing Isar and Neuhauser Gates ; the great bronze-foundry, with collection of models (daily, 1-6); the Museum of Schwanthaler’s works ; the great beer-gardens (especially the Hof- Brewery) ; and the splendid arcaded cemetery. In the N. W. quarter, beyond the Botanical Gardens and the Glass Palace, St, Boniface, and the great infantry barracks, are the admirable art-collections. The Old Pinakothek (open daily, except Sat., 9-3 ; catalogue, 2J inks.) is a vast Renaissance structure, adorned with 21 statues of famous artists, and with a long arcade frescoed by Cornelius with scenes from the history of mediseval art. The Museum contains 1,400 paintings, including fine works of Raphael, Correggio, Titian, Holbein, Diirer, and Rubens. On the ground floor, 300,000 engravings, 9,000 drawings, and cabinets of Greek and Etruscan vases (catalogue, 1 mk.). The New Pinakothek (open free Sun., Tues., Thurs., and Sat., 10-12 and 2-4), frescoed outside from Kaulbach’s designs, contains 400 modern paintings (mostly of the Munich school) by Kaulbach, Overbeck, etc. The Glyptothek (open Mon. and Eri., 8-12, 2-4 ; Wed., 8-1,9.) is a handsome Ionic building, with 12 richly "irescoed vaulted halls, enshrining Egyptian, Greek, Latin, and modern sculptures, and choice works of Canova, Thorwaldsen, Dannecker, etc. Opposite is the Corinthian Exhibition Building , where new Munich pictures are exhibited and sold every summer ; and N. W. is the famous Stained-Glass Institution . The Propylaea Gate is a splendid copy of the gateway to the Acropolis at Athens, built in 1862, and adorned with sculptures. 264 OBER-AMMERGAU. — INNSBRUCK. The English Garden, laid out by Count Rumford, begins at the Royal Palace, and runs N.4M. You can drive through it to the Observatory, 1^ M. 1J M outside the Carlsthor is the Hall of Fame, a Doric colonnade containing busts of 80 national celebrities. Here stands the bronze Statue of Bavaria , 56 ft. high. Ascend into its head, whence there is a fine view. The royal chateau and deer-park Nymphenburg and the Porcelain factory are 3 M. W. of Munich. The Lake of Starnberg (15 M. ; rly. in 1 hr.) 15 X 3^ M. in area, has fine mt. views, villas of wealthy Munichers, and several chateaux. Persons spending a day in Munich can obtain a good mid- day lunch at Schleich’s, 8 Brienner-Strasse. Operas at Hof and National Theatres (prices low), Sun., Mon., Thurs., and Fri., except in July (open, as usual in Germany, at 6.30 or 7). Good classical music on Sun. at St. Michael’s, the Court eh. To reach Ober-Ammergau take train to Murnau, 11J M., whence carriage, passing the ancient abbey of Ettal and up the Ammerthal. This is a pleasant •summer-journey among Bavarian mts. and lakes, and into the country of the Passion Play. See local guides. Through the Tyrol to Italy. — Prom Munich to "Verona, 286 M. (20-24 hrs. ; fares, 24 mk. 92 pf., 18 mk., 11 mk. 91 pf. ; to Innsbruck, 11 mk. 60 pf., 8 mk. 5 pf., 5^mk.). The rly. leads by Rosenheim to Kufstein ( Post Hotel), an ancient fortress command- ing the Tyrolese frontier ; and up the beautiful valley of the Inn ; by busy and picturesque old Schwaz, .among rich iron and copper mines ; and Hall , whose ch. has a picture by Diirer. Innsbruck ( Hotel de V Europe ; Goldene Sonne; Stern), the capital of the Tyrol (14,000 inhab.), is beautifully situated in the midst of mts., 6-8,000 ft. THE TYROL. 265 high, whose peaks seem to overhang its streets. On the wooden bridge which gives name to the town, Iiofer’s Tyrolese riflemen thrice defeated Napoleon’s Bavarians in the War of Independence (1809). Hofer, the innkeeper who led the Tyrol in arms against the French for 14 years, and was shot by Napoleon at Mantua, now lies in the Silver Chapel of Innsbruck’s Franciscan Ch ., under a splendid monument. In the same ch. is the monument (1513-83) of the Emperor Maximilian I., a bronze statue kneeling on a sarcopha- gus, and surrounded by 28 royal bronze statues and 24 exquisite historical reliefs, in marble (which the sac- ristan uncovers and explains). Queen Christina of Sweden abjured Protestantism in this ch. in 1654. See also the Palace, built by Maria Theresa ; the Golden Poof; the University ; the Triumphal Arch; the in- teresting museum and picture-gallery ; the ancient Capuchin Monastery ; the wealthy Ahhey of Witten ; and the fine old castle of Ambras (13th century). The rly. ascends the Lill valley, and crosses the Brenner Pass, 4,588 ft. high, the water-shed between the Adriatic and Black Seas. At the fortress of Franzensfeste trains stop for meals. From St er zing the glaciers of the Stubbaythal are visible. Then comes semi-Italian Brixen, an ancient ecclesiastical capital, with many chs. and cloisters ; Bozen ( Hotel Victoria ; Kaiserhrone), frequented by invalids, and in one of the finest Tyrolese glens, with grand excursions to Meran, etc. ; mountain-girdled Trent (. Europa ), once an Etrus- can town, known to Strabo and Ptolemy, and now rich in old towers, ruined castles, marble palaces, a grand 13th-century cathedral, and the Ch. of Sta. Maria Maggiore, where the celebrated Council of Trent held its sessions, 1545-63 ; and Poveredo, on the Adige. Beyond, the line runs through a region familiar to Dante, entering Italy beyond Ala. 266 ULM. — STUTTGART. Switzerland may be reached directly. from Munich, by rly. to Lindau, whence boat across Lake Constance to Romans horn, and rly, to Zurich (fares, to Lindau, 17 mks. 70 pf., Ilf inks., 7 mks. 55 pf. ; to Zurich, 31f mks., 22 mks. 45 pf.). We rec- ommend the tourist, however, to go on from Munich to Augs- burg and Stuttgart, with a detour to Nuremberg, Baireuth, etc. ; and from Nuremberg or Wurzburg to Heidelberg. Augsburg, Stuttgart, Nuremberg, Heidelberg. Illy, in l-g-2 hrs. from Munich to Augsburg (Bai- erischerhof ; Drei Mohren, a very ancient hotel, in which Charles V . was entertained — see visitors 5 books), once a free imperial town of vast wealth, and* the centre of trade between Germany and the Levant, now has 61,000 inhab. There remain many picturesque old houses, frescoed outside; the ancient Palace in which the Augsburg Confession was given ; the venerable chs. of St. Anna and St. Ulrich ; the Rathhaus (1616-20), with its Golden Hall ; the rambling Gothic Cathedral (995), with handsome cloisters ; and the frescoed Fug- gerhaus , the home of the richest merchants of 16th- century Europe. See also the fountains, the Arsenal, the Museum, and the gallery of Suabian pictures. It is 2-3 hrs. (6 fl. 80 lu\, 4? H. 55 kr., 2 fl. 90 kr.) to Ulm ( Hotel de V Europe ; Russischerhof ), a strong fortress of Wurtemberg (30,000 inhab.), on the Danube. The vast and splendid Gothic Cathedral (1377) has an immense organ, finely carved oaken stalls, and a nave 137 ft. high. Beautiful view^ of the Alps and the Sentis from the tower. Ely. to Lake Constance in 4-5 hrs. . Ely. from Ulm across Wurtemberg (in 2f-4 hrs.) to Stuttgart {Marquardt; Royal; tiilber), the modern capital of Wurtemberg (140,000 inliab.), beautifully CANNSTADT. — NUREMBERG. 267 situated among the hills and vineyards, and the home of a large Anglo-American colony. The Konigshaic (Royal Palace) has an Ionic colonnade and Corinthian porticos. Opposite, across the Schloss-Platz, is the new Palace (1746-1807), containing very fine sculp- tures (open daily, 1-3). Near by are the Theatre and the Old Palace (1553-70) ; also the Stiftskirche (1436-95), with statues of 11 Counts of Wiirtemberg; ThorwaldseiTs statue of Schiller ; and various na- tional buildings. The Royal Library, (open daily, ex- cept Sun., 10-12) contains 350,000 vols.„ and 3,800 MSS. ; and the Museum of Art (open daily except Mon.) has a collection of pictures and statuary. The Konigs-Strasse and Neckar-Strasse are the chief streets. There are small but interesting museums, and good schools. Charming views from the Hasenberg, Uhlandshohe, and Scliillershohe. The Anlagen park, decorated with statues, extends over 2 M., to Cannstadt (Vier Jahreszeiten ; Bohn - hof ; Bar), on the Neckar, with warm saline and cha- lybeate springs, much frequented by invalids. See the Royal Villa, the Rosenstein, and other villas on the heights ; also the Kursaal and the Wilhelma. The grave of Freiligratli is here. There are several other notable excursions to be made from Stuttgart. From Augsburg (fares, 12 mks. 60 pf., 9 mks., 5j- mks.), or from Stuttgart, via Grailsheim and Ansbach (19 mks. 70 kr., 13 mks. 85 kr.), go to Nuremberg {Bayerischerhof ; Strauss ; Goldener Adler ; Bother Hahn), a delightful old town (140,000 inhab.), famous for its quaint mediaeval houses, oriel windows, and toy factories, and the centre of trade be- tween N. and S. Germany. At one time their flour- ished here Veit Stoss, Vischer, and Krafft, the carvers; the teacher and disciples of Albert Diirer, and the great 268 NUREMBERG. master himself; and Hans Sachs, the cobbler-poet. The two latter are buried in St. John’s Cemetery ; their houses are religiously kept ; Rauch’s statue of Diirer stands in the Milk Market, and Hans Sachs’s monu- ment is in the Spital-Platz. The lofty wall which encircles Nuremberg has 75 towers of masonry, the 4 largest of which were built by Unger. Take a walk around these walls, and also note the singular old bridges over the Pegnitz. Peter Vischer is buried at St. Rochus , and his house is preserved. The finest ch. is St. Lawrence , a red-sandstone structure (1287-1477), with a splendid W. portal and rose-window, Krafft’s wonderful ciborium, 66 ft. high, and Yeit Stoss’s wood- carvings. See fountains, outside; and the ancient bronze fountain-figure of the Little Goose Man, in the Goose-Market. The Frauenkirche has a splendid fafade, and rich old glass and works of art inside. Opposite is a tall Gothic column (1385-96), surrounded with statues of lie roes. St. Sebaldus , a 13th-century Gothic basilica, contains rare old paintings, and the famous Shrine of St. Sebaldus, “the most exquisite gem of German art,” whose multitude of statues and carvings were made by Vischer and his sons (1506-19). Op- posite is St. Maurice , now a gallery containing many old German paintings. St. Fgidius (1140) has an altar-piece by Van Dyck. The Germanic Museum , in an old Carthusian convent (beautiful cloisters), has a fresco by Kaulbach, and many mediaeval relics and pictures. In the old Dominican convent is the Maxi- milian collection of mediaeval antiquities; also, the Town Library (open Tues., Thurs., Sat.), with 40,000 vols. and 800 MSS. The Burg is a Gothic castle on a rock to the N., built in 1024, and enlarged by Bar- barossa in 1158, and rich in ponderous towers, quaint chapels, antique halls, priceless paintings, and views RATISBON. — WALHALLA. — KELHEIM. 269 over town and country. The Rathhaus contains 30,000 engravings, and many pictures. See also the new law- courts, the war monument, and the bronze-foundry. 62 M. (2^ hrs.) from Nuremberg (fares, 9J mks., 6 mks. 55 pf.), on the Danube, is Ratisbon ( G-oldenes Kreuz ; Weisser Hahn), the German Regensburg , a very ancient free town, where the Imperial Diet was held from 1663 to 1808, and now Bavarian. There are many mediaeval houses, with armorial bearings still upon them, and with towers of defence (especially in Ambas- sadors’-St.). The Cathedral (1275) has a rich fapade and porch, lofty towers, and a very symmetrical nave, 129 ft. high ; also, fine monuments by Canova and Vischer, an altar of silver, and cloisters. The 12th- century Benedictine Ch. of St. James has strange old sculptures ; and the Benedictine Monastery of St. Em- meran, founded in 652, and enriched by Charlemagne, has for 70 years been the palace of the Princes of Tliurn and Taxis. The 11th-century Rathhaus contains many implements of torture. 7-8 M. distant (omnibus in 1J hr.), on a hill 313 ft. over the Danube, is the Walhalla, built 1830-42 (at a cost of $3,400,000) by King Lewis as a Temple of Fame. It resembles the Athenian Parthenon, and is of huge granite blocks, surrounded with 52 Doric columns, and adorned in the pediments with Schwan- thaler’s sculptures of the Battles of Leipsic and Armin- ius. The roof is of iron and copper. The interior hall, 173 X 49 ft., and 55 ft. high, decorated with friezes, 6 Victory statues by Bauch, and 100 busts of illustrious Germans. View of Bavarian Forest and Alps. Kelheim, up the Danube, has the huge circular Hall of Liberation , built by King Lewis, 1842-63, to commemorate the Battle of Leipsic. It is lined with marble, and contains 34 Victory statues, of Carrara marble ; while outside are 18 eolossal statues. 270 BAMBERG. — BAIREUTH. — HEIDELBERG. Nuremberg to Heidelberg, 21 mks. 5 pf., 11 mks. 9 pf.). ; Wurzburg (Russischer Hof) has a vast Royal Palace, a Cathedral (1189-1240), the Neumiinster Ch. (with tomb of Walther von der Yogelweid), the handsome Mariencapelle , and a university. Rly. (7 mks. 60 ki\, 5 mks. 5 kr., 3 mks. 20 kr.) to Baireuth, by Bamberg ( Bamberger Hof), a hill-town, with a splen- did 12th-century Romanesque Cathedral , rich in monu- ments and relics. The Lyceum contains 2,600 MSS. In the Palace, Napoleon I. declared war against Prussia The rly. runs around the Franconian Switzerland to Baireuth (Reichsadler ; Sonne ; Anker), the seat of Wagner’s great theatre, and of an enormous old opera-house. Jean Paul Richter’s house, statue, and tomb are here. See the Old and New Palaces, the war monument of 1870-71, and the ducal chateaux of the Eremitage and the Fantaisie (each 3 M. out). Ex- cursions into the Fichtelgebirge. Prom Wurzburg it is 5-7 hrs. (fares, 12 mks. 80 pf., 8^ mks., 5 mks. 45 pf.) to Heidelberg {Hotel de V Europe ; Grand; Sclirieder ; Victoria , all near the stat. In the town, Prinz Carl ; Ritter ; Rheinischer ), renowned for its history, its learned University, and its beautiful situation, where the mountainous Neckar valley enters the great Rhine plain. The U?iiversity (founded 1386) has valuable museums, and a library of 300,000 vols. The buildings are homely. The Castle , 330 ft. above the Neckar, was founded in 1294, and added to by subsequent electors and kings. In 1689 the French Gen. Melac, forced to retreat thence, burned and blew up the castle ; and the destruction was completed by lightning in 1764. It is the grandest ruin in Germany. See the splendid Renaissance Otto- Heinrichs building (1556) ; the Frie - SPIRES. — WORMS. 271 drichs building (1601), rich in statues, and containing the great Tun (40,000 gallons) ; and other palaces, towers, and gardens. From the Konigsstuhl, 905 ft. above the castle (1 hr. by road), grand view of the Rhine and Neckar valleys, the Black Forest, Taunus, and Odenwald, and out to Strasbourg Cathedral. Spires, Worms, Baden, Strasbourg. It is a short ride, down the Neckar valley, to Mannheim {Lang doth ; Egly's ; Kaiser ; Pfalz), a town of 53,000 inhab., on the Rhine, very regularly laid out, and adorned with a great palace and picture- gallery and several statues. Fine rly. -bridge across the Rhine, Ludwig shaven. 1 hr. by rly. to the S. is Spires {Rheinischer Ilof ; Wittelsbacher Hof), the capital of the Bavarian Palatinate (15,000 inhab.). The vast and imposing Romanesque Cathedral (open 9-11, 2-6) was founded in 1030, and in 1146 St. . Bernhard preached the Crusade in it. 9 German em- perors and 3 empresses were buried here. In 1794 it was desecrated, and was used as a magazine until 1822. It is 441 ft. long, and 105 ft. high in the nave, with towers 284 ft. high. See the new fa£ade and Em- perors’ Hall ; the magnificent modern frescos ; and the imperial statues by Schwanthaler. Worms {Alter Kaiser; De V Europe), f hr. N. of Ludwigshaven, successively capital of Burgundian and Franconian kings, and of Charlemagne, is now a de- cadent Hessian town. The splendid Romanesque Ca- thedral (1110) has 4 towers and 2 domes, and a stately interior, 357 ft, long. On the square occurred events sung of in the Niebelungenlied ; and on one side is the Renaissance HeiV sche Haus , on the site of the palace where Luther defended his doctrines before Charles Y. 272 DARMSTADT. — CARLSRUHE. — BADENo and the Diet of Worms (1521). Luther's Monument (built 1859-68) consists of his colossal statue, around and below which are statues of 6 Reformers, 2 Protes- tant princes, and 3 German cities. It is a grand work. Darmstadt {Traube ; Barmstadter Hof), the hand- some capital of Hesse (50,000 inhab.), has in its Palace a library of 500,000 vols., and a noble gallery of 700 paintings (open daily). In the palace on Anna-Strasse is the celebrated Meyer Madonna, by Holbein (1 mk.). Prom Heidelberg, 2 hrs. (5 mks. 5 pf., 3 mks. 60 pf.) to Carlsruhe ( Germania ; Erbprinz ), the capital of Baden (60,000 inhab.), with handsome modern build- ings, squares, and monuments. The streets radiate like fan-sticks from the handsome Fa lace and park. The Romanesque Hall of Art contains 6-700 pictures, and other collections. Prom handsome rly stat. 1 hr. (3 mks. 40 pf., 2 mks. 35 pf. ; change cars at Oos) to Baden-Baden {Victoria ; Badischer ; Englischer ; Be V Europe ; Stephanienbad ; Hollande ; Barmstadt; St. Petersburg), in a delightful glen amid the foot-hills of the Black forest. 40,000 foreigners come here yearly, to indulge in fashionable lounging, to enjoy the mild climate and beautiful environs, and to drink the min- eral waters. Vast and magnificent Trink-Halle, Con- versation-House, and Bath-House. The lofty New Castle (1 mk.), built 1479-1519, is the summer home of the Grand Duke. Band music in the town several times daily. Good theatre. Prices at Baden generally high. Excursions thence into the Black Forest. Rlv. S. to Kehl, where the Rhine is crossed to Strasbourg {Maison Rouge ; Hotel de la Ville de Paris ; National ; B’ Angleterre), the capital of Al- sace-Lorraine (115,000 inhab.), terribly bombarded in the war of 1870-71. The grand Cathedral , built 1015- 1439, has a magnificant facade by Erwin von Steinbach STRASBOURG. — FREIBURG. 2 (1318), and a spire 465 ft. high (ascent, ljmk.) r whence an extensive view is gained, even to the Jura: Mts. The interior, 323 ft. long and 99 ft. high, with its 15th-century stained windows, slender and richly carved pillars, and Erwin’s tomb and pillar, is impres- sive. The celebrated Astronomical Clock is in the S. transept. The bombardment of 1870, which destroyed the Library, Theatre, Picture Gallery, etc., spared the Cathedral. The new University, now specially favored by Germany, is at the Fischer Gate. The new Library already has 470,000 vols. In St. Thomas Ch. (10 pf.) is a vast marble monument to Marshal Saxe, which it took 20 years to make. In the Place Gutenberg is a statue of Gutenberg. The New Temple has been rebuilt magnificently. Many statues on the squares. Stras- bourg is an important strategic point, and vast fortifica- tions have recently been erected by the Germans. From Strasbourg go to Basle (fares, lljmks., 7 mks. 68 pf., 4 mks. 90 pf.), along the Black Forest. Freiburg [Zdhringer ; Victoria ; Trescher) is a pretty forest-town of 26,000 inhab., and the capital of the Breisgau. It has suffered much in many wars. The Cathedral is a symmetrical red-sandstone Gothic ch. (1122-1236), with a remarkable tower, 397 ft. high; a rich portal, with statuary; and an interior 342 ft. long and 102 ft. high, lighted from five stained win- dows, and containing many old monuments, paintings, etc. (best time to visit, 10.30-12 ; fee at choir, 50 pf. ; to tower, 60 pf.). The Kaufhaus , on the S., is a hand- some 15th-century building. The new Victory Monu- ment chiefly honors Gen. von Werder. See the quaint fountains, the streams of pure water in the streets, and. the pretty pebble pavements. Climb the Scklossberg . Grand view over Black Forest, Vosges, and Bhineland. From Freiburg to Basle, 2 hrs.; 5f mks., 4 mks. 274 BASLE. SWITZERLAND. F OR direct routes from Paris, see page 199. Swiss money is in francs, like French. The Swiss season is Aug. in the high Alps, July 15 to Sept. 15 elsewhere. Return and excursion tickets on all Swiss rlys. Pensions (large summer boarding -houses) at all chief resorts, $.80-$2.00 a day. Basle, Zurich, Lake Constance. Basle ( Three Kings Hotel; Euler ; Schweizerhof ; Faucon ; Sauvage ; Cicogne ; La Croix Blanche ), a wealthy and pretty town of 70,000 inhab., on the Rhine, has rlys. in every direction. There are many handsome streets, and pleasant parks and promenades. The Cathedral, built by Henry II. in 1010-19, and re- stored after destructions by fire and earthquake, is an imposing Gothic building of red sandstone, now Protes- tant (open Wed., 2-4, 1-2 fr.). Ancient statuary on fapades ; 2 lofty towers, built in 1500. In the rich and beautiful interior, see the roodloft (1381) ; stained windows ; Chapel of St. Nicholas ; font (1465) ; pul- pit (1424) ; tombs of Erasmus and of Empress Anna ; sculptures on N. portal and around choir. Very fine cloisters (1362-1487), leading to the Pfalz terrace, over the Rhine and viewing the Black Forest. In the Council Hall (daily ; small fee) are fragments of the 15th-century fresco of The Dance of Death. The Museum (| fr. ; catalogue, \ fr.) has many historic and scientific curiosities, and the largest Swiss picture-gallery, including many choice Holbeins (The Passion, etc.) and works of modern Germans. Also University Library (200,000 vols.) and a great hall. The Mission House , for education of missionaries, is SCHAFFHAUSEN. 275 one of the powerful local theological influences, and has an interesting museum (open daily). See the Tovm Hall (1508) ; the Spahlen Gate (1400) ; the quaint fountains ; and the chs. Basle to Lucerne, direct, 55£ M. ; fares, 9 fr. 40 c., 6 fr. 60 c., 4 fr. 40 c. It is better, however, to go via the Balls of the Rhine and Lake Constance, by rly. up the Rhine. From Basle it is 59 M. (9| fr., 6 ir. 30 c., 4 fr. 5 c.) to Schaffhausen {Krone ; Muller ; Post ; Scliwaneri), a picturesque town, with quaint old frescoed houses ; a wall with 6 gates, and old towers ; a massive castle (1564) ; and a Romanesque Cathedral (1101), with fine cloisters, and a great bell inscribed Vivos voco, mortuos plango , fulgura frango. The Falls of the Rhine may be visited hence (omnibus, 1 fr., or rly.). They are near Neuhausen stat. {Schweizerhof, with view of Alps and Falls; Bellevue'). Here the Rhine, 380-400 ft. wide, descends 100 ft., in rapids, whirlpools, and 3 falls, over limestone ledges. It is the largest fall in Europe, and should be seen by moonlight, or under its morning and late-afternoon rainbows. You may ascend the rock which divides the falls (3 fr.) ; or view them from Laufen castle (1 fr.), the best point, where the Fischetz platform should be visited. From Schaffhausen go by rly., or by steamboat (4 hrs. ; 3 fr., 1 fr. 95 c.) up the Rhine, to Constance (Insel ; Hecht), a decadent town of 15,000 inhab. The Cathedral (1052) lias notable stained glass, bas-reliefs, cloisters, choir-stalls, and the stone on which John Huss is reported to have stood when sentenced. W. of the Victory monument is where Huss and Jerome of Prague were burned alive (1415-16). In the frescoed Kaufhaus (i fr.) the Council of Constance met (1414-18). See 276 ZURICH. Town Hall (1593), St. Stephen’s Ch., and Kreut 2 - lingen Abbey. Rly, 34f M. (l^hrs. ; 6 ir., 4 fr., 20 c., 3 fr.) to Zurich (Hotel Baur au Lac; Bellevue; St. Go- thard ; Baur en Ville ), on the swift green river Limmat, at the foot of the beautiful Lake Zurich. Remarkable view (especially by moonlight) from bridge, of villages, villas, embowered spires, and distant Alps. Zurich is famous for learned schools, beautiful environs, and conclaves of political exiles. See the Romanesque Cathedral (12th century), with fine cloisters and statues of Charlemagne ; Town Hall and Museum (1649), near the bridge ; Hohe Promenade, with fine view ; Library , with rare MSS. ; Polytech- nic School , splendid view from terrace ; Art Building ; St. Augustine's Ch. ; St. Peter s Ch ., where Lava ter preached 23 years ; Arsenal , with TelPs bow, Zwing- lius’s battle-axe, etc. ; and splendid rly. stat. Zurich to Lindau and Germany. — Rly. to Romans - horn (50f M. ; 8f fr., 6 fr. 15 c., 4 fr. 40 c.), whence steamer to Friedrichshafen (1 hr. ; 1 mk. 20 pf., 80 pf.) and Lindau (1^ hrs. ; 2imks., 1| mk.) ; or rly. by St. Gallen to Rorschach (5^ hrs. ; 10 fr. 65 c., fr., 5 fr. 35 c.), whence steamer to Lindau (1| hrs. ; 1 mk. 65 pf. ; 1 mk. 10 pf.). Lake Constance (in German the Boden-See , in Latin Lacus Brigantinus') is very pretty in summer, but has not the beauty of the other Swiss lakes. It is 42 X 8 M. in area, and 15 6| M. around ; very deep ; with green water, abounding in trout ; flat, or undu- lating shores ; and distant views of the Alps of Vorarl- berg and Appenzell. In 4 centuries it has frozen over but 15 times. It lies between Baden, Austria, Bavaria, Wiirtemberg, and Switzerland. There is au immense traffic between the lake-ports. THE SPLUGEN PASS. 277 The Uetliberg, 2,864 ft. high, 6 M. S. W. of Zu- rich, is ascended by a rly. with a gradient in some places of 7 in 100 ft. (8 fr. 50 c., 2 fr. ; return tickets, 5 fr., 8 fr.). The view includes Zurich and its lake, the Linimat Valley, the Alps from the Sentis to the Jung- frau, the Righi, Pilatus, the Juras, Vosges, and Black - Porest peaks. Magnificent views from road up. The Splugen Pass. Zurich (or Rolirschach) is a good point from which to visit the Splugen Pass. Very pleasant trip to its summit, although it is not the best route into Italy. Go by steamer (be careful to start from the right pier ; 2-2 £ hrs. ; fares, 2 fr. 20 c., 1 fr. 40 c.) up the lovely Lake of Zurich, 25^ X M. in area, with transpar- ent bluisli-green water reflecting the chain of happy shore-villages and the snowy Alps of Schwyz and Gla- rus, to Rapperscl^vvyl (Hotel du Lac ; Schwan), which has a 12th-century cm, Ckpiichih monastery, deer-park, and ancient castle, containing the Polish National Mu- seum. Rly. from Zurich, ta Rapperschwyl* 44f M. \ fares, 4 fr. 70 c., 2 fr. 20 c.; to Coire, 4-5" hrs. ; fares, 13 fr. 70 c., 8 fr. 90 c. The rly. follows Lake Zurich from Rapperschwyl to SchmeriJcon ; ascends the Linth valley ; runs along the shore of the magnificent Lake of Wallens tadt for 12 M. ; enters upper Rhine val- ley ; and runs S., through grand scenery, to Ragatz ( Quellenhof and Ragatz , both united with the Casino; Schweizerhof ; Tarn ina ; Freieck ), a favorite summer-resort $t the mouth of the wonderful Tarnina gorge, 2 i M. up which are the hot saline baths of Pfdffers y amid very impressive rocky scenery, and cliffs 6-700 ft. high, which have “ the grave and sombre aspect of an- cient monasteries.” These waters have been prized for 278 COIKE. 500 years. They are conducted to the baths at Ragatz. The philosopher Schelling is buried at llagatz. The rly. ascends the Rliine valley, by the 4th-century Roman tower of Mayenfeld , and many pretty villages, vineyards, and castles, to Coire ( Stebjbock ; Luhnainer ; Stern ; Sonne), the capital of the Grisons (9,000 inhab.), surrounded with picturesque walls and Roman towers, and nestling un* der the Mittenberg. The Cathedral (8th century) con- tains pictures by Diirer and the elder Holbein, and rare Roman antiquities. The Episcopal Palace is very ancient (bishopric founded in 4th century). Grand views from the Rosenhiigel and other hills. The Splugen Pass is reached twice daily by dili- gences (7 hrs.; Blf M.; 11 fr. 85 c,; coupe , 14 fr. 95 c.) from Coire to Splugen, by the Romansch hamlet of Ems and the chateau of Eeichenau, to (11 M.) Thusis {Via Mala ; Rhcetia ), a centre of grand excursions. Many tourists ride hither, and then walk up through the Via Mala, a tremendous gorge between calcareous cliffs 1,600 ft. high, with the Rhine roaring heavily below. Thousands of lives have been lost by avalanches and land-slips in this “ Bad Way. 5 ’ The safe new road, with its tunnels and bridges, was built in 1822. A stone dropped from Second Bridge (247 ft. high ; here the scenery is grandest) makes a noise like a cannon. The verdant farms of the Valley of Sckan/s open out above ; and the road passes Zillis , with its venerable ch. ; Andeer, an old Romansch village; traverses the wild Roffna Ravine, 3 M. long, by the Rhine cascades ; comes into view of the Einshorn and t Pizzo Uccello peaks ; and reaches Splugen ( Hotel Bodenhaus ), where the diligences all stop for dinner. Diligences twice daily from Splugen to Chiavenna (10 fr., coupe 12 fr.) ; rly. thence to Colico (3 fr., 2J fr., BEBNABDINO PASS. 279 1} fr.). It is about 7 M. from Spliigen to the top of the pass, 6,945 ft. high, the Italian frontier-line, with Surettdhorner (9,925 ft.) on one side, and Schneehorn, (10,748 ft.; Milan and Suabia are visible from it) on the other. The road descends by leagues of zigzags and galleries, ravines and cascades, to the vineyards and chestnut fields of Chiavenna ( Conradi ), with its ruined castle and fine old ch. ; thence rly. down a mt. -girdled valley by Rim to Colico, on Lake Como. By the Bernardino Pass, diligences run daily to Bellinzona, in 8J hrs. (45} M. ; 14 fr. 90 c. ; coupe, 19 fr. 45 c.). The road ascends the desolate Rlieinwald valley 8-9 M. to the top of the pass (6,768 ft. high), surrounded by Alps and glaciers; and thence descends, by long zigzags, to San Bernardino u Mesocco, Cama t Roveredo , and other charming Italian-Swiss villages, amid very grand scenery. From Bellinzona, rly. 14 M. to Locarno (f hr. ; 2 fr. 80 c., 1 fr. 60 c., 1 fr. 15 c.), whence rly. to Lake Como and Milan. It is easy to cross from Colico to Bellinzona. To return North, go from Bellinzona to Biasca, and thence across the St. Gothard Pass to Andermatt. Tourists who go only to the top of the Spliigen can return to Reichenau , and cross to Andermatt, on the St. Gothard route, a fatiguing journey of 13 hrs. (21 fr. 65 c. ; coupe, 27 fr. 90 c.), up the Vorder-Rhein val- ley, by numerous villages, and handsome old Dis- sentis, and across the Qberalp. The Engadine is a dry, cold, and silent valley, 3,300 to 5,800 ft. high, 57 M. long, and 1 M. wide, between the Engadine and Bernina Alps and gla- ciers. It has latterly been much sought by Anglo- Americans, and affords many fine excursions. Dili- gence (52 M. ; 13} lirs.; 20 fr. 75 c.) from Coire over the J ulier Pass (7,503 ft. high; inn at top) to the large 280 PONTRESINA. — LUCERNE. Romansch village of Samaden, whence it is 3 M. to the Baths of St. Moritz ( Belvedere ), famous for its chalybeate springs, impregnated with carbonic acid and alkaline salts. Alps and glaciers surround the place, and the air is very invigorating to invalids. Pontresina (Rosey ; Weisses Kreuz; Saratz ), 4JM. from Samaden, is the starting-point for most excur- sions in the Bernina chain . The season is short, prices high, and society good. Diligences run twice daily through the whole Engadine,from^7mp&mato Schulz. The magnificent Bernina Pass, 7,657 ft. high, is crossed by daily diligences from Samaden, in 5J hrs., to Poschiavo, whence diligence (4J hrs.) to Tirano and Sondria, in the Val Tellina; then rly. to Colico, on Lake Como. Lucerne, the Righi, the St. Gothard Route. Rly. from Basle (3f hrs. ; fares, 9 fr. 40 c., 6 fr. 60 c., 4fr. 70 c.); or from Zurich, by Zug (6|fr., 4 fr. 55 c., 3^fr.) ; or from Berne (11 fr., 7i fr., 5 fr. 30 c.) ; to Lucerne ( Schwan ; Schweizerhof ; Luzernerhof ; Na- tional; Beaurivage ; U Angleterre ; Righi; J)u Lac; Nu St. Gothard : numerous good’ pensions'), a town of 17,000 inhab., beautifully situated at the outlet of the most lovely lake in Switzerland, between the Pilatus and Righi, and facing the Alps of Schwyz and Engel- berg. The Arsenal contains many Turkish trophies; the Town Hall has ancient carvings ; and in the Stiftskirche see grand organ, carvings, and stained glass. Thorwaldsen’s Lion of Lucerne is a statue of a dying lion, 28 ft. long, cut in the face of a cliff, and commemorating 800 soldiers of the Swiss Guard, who died in defence of the Tuileries in 1792. The Capell Bridge , built in 1303, over the river Reuss, has 154 THE RIGI. — LAKE OF LUCERNE. 281 old paintings on its roof, and ends at St. Peter's Chapel (12 century). The Water Tower , according to tradition, was once a light house (lucerna), and gave name to the town. It now contains the archives. The Muhlen Bridge is ornamented with 80 singular pictures of the Dance of Death. See also Museum and Library (80,000 vols.) ; Stauffer’s Alpine animals (1 fr.); the Glacier Garden (1 fr.) ; and the Jesuit ch. The Schweizerhof Quay is a beautiful promenade with many trees, between the palatial hotels and the lake. The Rigi is a group of mts., 30-40 M. around, the chief peak, the Kulm , being 5,905 ft. high (4,470 ft. above the lake), and nearly surrounded by the lakes of Lucerne, Zug, and Lowerz. The Kulm is ascended by a mt. rly., like that on Mt. Washington, and has several hotels {Rigi- Kulm; Sonne; Rigi- Staff el; Rigi- Kdltbad ), whose landlords have been compelled by criticism to lower their prices and improve their man- ners. Engage rooms in advance in July or Aug. ; for then hundreds come up here to spend the night aud see the sunrise. Take plenty of warm wraps. It is but 2J lirs. from Lucerne to the top, by steamer to Vitznau , and mt. rly. thence (4| M. ; 7 fr.). Circular ticket, good 3 days, from Zurich by Zug to the Rigi- Kulm, down by rly. and steamer to Lucerne, and back to Zurich, costs 22 fr. 40 c. , 19f fr. , 16 fr. 70 c. From the crest you see a line of snowy Alps, 120 M. long, the Sentis, Bernese range, Wetterliorn, Jungfrau, etc. ; elsewhere, the Juras, Vosges, Suabian Mts., Black Forest ; many a famous Swiss town ; and 13 lakes. The Rigi-Scheideck {Kurhaus), command- ing a very noble view, is reached by branch rly. From Vitznau go by steamer (2 hrs. ; 2 fr. 20 c. , 1 fr. 10 c.) to Fluelen, up the superb Lake of Lucerne ( Vierwaldstdtter-See, or Lake of the Four Forest Can- 282 ALTORF. — AMSTEG. tons), the grandest in Europe, 1,438 ft. high, 25 M. long, and 1-4 M. wide. It forms an irregular cross, between vast mts. From the summer hotels at the numerous villages — Beckenried, Gersau, Brunnen, etc. — fine mt. excursions may be made. Just beyond Seelisberg are the sacred springs of the Riitli, on whose meadow Burst, Erni, and Stauffacher founded the Swiss liberties, in 1307. Beyond is Tell's Platte, with its romantic chapel, on the ledge where Tell leaped ashore from Gessler’s boat. Marvellous scenery thence to the head -of the lake. We recommend the tourist to go from Lucerne to Fliielen and the top of the St. Gothard ; thence to Andermatt, and over the Furca to the Rhone Glacier ; thence over the Grim- sel to Interlaken. You can buy tickets at porte-bureau. Lucerne to Biasca, across the St. Gothard, for 29| fr. ; coupe , 36 fr. 20 c. Fliielen to Andermatt, 13 fr. 5 c., 15 fr. 95 c. Private carriages can be hired at Fliielen, and are much more comfortable and not more expensive. Fluelen (St. Gottliard; Adler; Hirsch; Kreuz; Tell) is the port of Uri. 2 M. beyond is Altorf (Tell, Sclilussel ; Lowe), Uri’s capital, in a mt. -walled valley, and the reputed scene of Tell’s shooting the apple. The site is marked by a fountain. Colossal statue of Tell near by. His birthplace, near Biirglen, is occupied by a frescoed chapel. 9 M. beyond Altorf is Amsteg {Stern; Kreuz ; Hirsch), where the Pass begins. This was the chief route over the Alps until 1800. The road was built 1820-32. The scenery here is grander than on any other pass. The Lucerne-Milan rly. runs under the St. Gothard, in a tunnel nearly 9 M. long, built 1872-82, at a cost of over $10,000,000. Beyond Amsteg, the road ascends the narrow Reuss Talley, with the huge Brisenstock on the 1. ; over the ANDERMATT. — FURCA PASS. 283 lofty Bfaffenstrung bridge; by Wasen {Hotel des Alpes ) and Watt ingen, near the Rohrbach fall and the Teufel- stein; Geschenen > at the mouth of the tunnel; up steep ascents, and over the Devil's Bridge , where French, Austrians, and Russians fought in 1799 ; through the Timer Loch tunnel, into the Urseren valley ; and up to Andermatt (Bellevue; Drei Konige; St. Got hard ; Oberalp ; Krone), among high and arid mts. crowned with snow. See cliapel, and mineral collections. 9 M. distant is the summit of the St. Gothard Pass (6,936 ft. high), whence the road descends steeply by the Hospice to Airolo and Biasca, whence rly. to Milan. It is better to return from the top of the Pass, spend the night at Andermatt, and go over the Furca and Grimsel Passes to Interlaken, Prom Andermatt diligences rup in 5-6 hrs. (21 M. ; 8Jfr.; coupe , 10 fr. 20 c.), through Hospenthal (Mey- erhof ; Lowe'), 2J- M. out; and by a zigzag route up the precipices, amid wonderful scenery, to the top of the Furca Pass (Hotel de la Furca), 7 : i 992 ft. high past the grand and lofty Galenstock ami FurJOhorn ;, and thence to the Rhone Glacier. This va$t sea of ice, 10,450 ft. high, is surrounded bf lofty snowy peaks, and gives birth to the famous rive^Jihone,. Longfellow, in Hyperion, describes it js a frozen cata- ract, 2,000 ft. high, and many miles broad. ^You may go thence to Brieg by diligence (5 Infer ; llfdr. ; coupe , 13 fr. 20 c.), whence rly. to Yisp, effjkoute to Zermatt It is better to pass the night at the Hotel du Glacier d# Rhone ; and at morn go by horse ^32 fr.) along the steep grassy Maienwand ; up over the Grimsel Pass* (7,103 ft. high) ; by the Lake of the Lead, in which the soldiers killed in the battles between the French 284 MEIRINGEN. — BRIENZ. and Austrians hereabouts, in 1799, were buried; down the steeps to the Hospice (now a hotel), in the rocky mt. basin of the Grimselgrund, near the Agassizliorn and the Finster-Aarliorn, and 2 hrs. from the Unter- Aar Glacier, where Prof. Agassiz abode in 1841 (ex- cursion to top of Little Sidelhorn, 3 hrs. ; guide, 4 fr.) ; down the Aare ravine to the Handeck Falls (J fr.) ; where the icy river precipitates itself 250 ft., in a deep rocky gorge ; by Guttanen , with its rock-strewn mead- ows ; to Im-IIof, whence a good road leads to Meiringen {Hotel du Reiclienbach ; Wilder Mann; Victoria) is beautifully situated in the Hasli valley near the Reiclienbach Falls. It was almost totally de- stroyed by fire in October, 1891, but is being rebuilt. From behind the Chalet TAmi you can descend into the canon of the Aare. It is 5J hrs. hence to Hau- deck Falls (horse up and back, 15 fr.). The Briinig Pass is one of the most frequented. Lucerne to Alpnach (whence Pilatus may be ascended) by steamer (1J hrs.), and thence by -rail (10 fr.) to Bnenz, via Meiringen. You pass the pretty hamlet of JSarnen , in a rich valley be- tween high mts. ; Sachseln , with a saint’s relics in its eh.; over the Briinig Pass, 3,395 ft. high {Hotel Brunigkulm)\ and then downward, with magnificent mt. views, to the Aare, where you meet the valley road. We repeat our advice to go from Lucerne to the top of the St. Gotliard, and thence over the Furca and Grimsel to Meir- ingen. You may go thence to the top of the Briinig in a morning. Brienz {Bar; Weisses Kreuz) \ on the mountain- walled Lake of Brienz. 800 people are employed here in wood- carving. The lake is 7Jx2J m., and the deepest in Switzerland. Jt is traversed by the INTERLAKEN. — GRINDELWALD. 285 whitish-green waters of the Aare. The Giessbach is a series of 7 beautiful cascades, falling from rocks 1,148 ft. high, amid luxuriant herbage and stately trees, and illuminated at night by Bengal lights. A mt.-rly. leads from the landing on the lake, over the tree-tops, to the hotel (telegraph for rooms, and stay all night). By steamer in 10 min. from Brienz; or by footpath in 6 M. Steamer from Brienz, 4 times daily (2 fr., 1 fr.), to Interlaken. The Bernese Oberland. Interlaken (Victoria ; Metropole ; Jungfrau ; Des Alpes; Belvedere; Jungfraublick ; Beau Bivage; Be la Gave ; Obevldnder ; Bellevue ; Du Pont ; Unterseen ; Schweizerhof ), in the beautiful glen between the lakes of Brienz and Thun, is the main rendezvous of tourists during the high season (July 15 to Oct. 1), and the best point for trips in any part of the Bernese Ober- land. People remaining 2-3 weeks in this great town of hotels can get board for 8-9 fr. a day, or in the 'pensions at 5-6 fr. See the magnificent Hoheweg promenade, lined with walnut-trees ; the Kursaal, with semi-daily concerts ; the old wooden village of Unter- seen; the ruined castles of Unsprunnen and Weissenau ; and the precipitous Harder mt., where many fatal accidents have occurred. The Interlaken hotels are crowded with people of fashion ; and parties, balls, and receptions continually occur. Excursions. — The legal tariffs for carriages are printed in a pamphlet (to be had at the hotels), and are ad- hered to by drivers. Local guide-books (in English) describe routes and localities. Grindelwald (Bar ; Eiger ; Adler ; Du Glacier ) is reached by railway or private conveyance, and is near two vast glaciers, in 286 LAUTERBRUNNEN. — MtjRREN. a valley surrounded by the Wetterhorn, Mettenberg, and Eiger. Lauterbrunnen {Steinbock; Staubbach ) is 7\ M. from Interlaken, in a narrow rock-girt glen, close to the famous Staubbach (dust-brook), a slender but unbroken fall 980 ft. high. Earther up the glen are the grand Schmadribach Fall and the far-viewing Steinberg Alp. A marvellous Alpine experience is gained by climbing (2|hrs.) to Miirren {Grand Hotel des Aljoes ; Miirren ; Zum Silberlioni) , a hamlet 5,34 7 ft. high, on the edge of a cliff which fronts on one of the grandest Oberland ranges. The trip from Lauter- brunnen to Miirren can now be made by rly. (return tickets 6 fr.). Large English colony here, July- Sept., with cli. Grand views of Jungfrau, Eiger, Breitliorn, Mbnch, etc. Excursion thence to the Selling elhorn in 4-6 hrs. (guide necessary ; return, 3 hrs.). Erom Lauterbrunnen bridle-path over the Wengern- alp ; by the Hotel de la Jungfrau , whence is the finest view of the Jungfrau, 13,671 ft. high ; over the Little Scheideck {Hotel Bellevue ), 6,788 ft. high, with magnificent views ; and down to Grindelwald (entire journey, 6-7 hrs.). Meiringen to Grindelwald , 18 M. lfl\ hrs. walk, or horseback ride), by the grand Reichenbach Fall ; the Baths of Rosenlaui (Hotel), near the Bosenlaui Glacier; over the Great Scheideck pass, 6,434 ft. high ; and down by the Upper Grindelwald Glacier. Grand views of Wetterhorn, Eaulhorn, etc., and from the low Grin - delalp. Grindelwald to Lauterbrunnen or Interlaken. The Lake of Thun, reached by rly. from Inter- laken. (Interlaken to Thun, 4-5 times daily, in li hr.; 2 fr. 80 c.), 12 X M. in area, and 1,837 ft. high, has many villas and hamlets on its banks, back of which rise vast mts. As the steamer leaves SPIEZ. — BERNE. 287 Darlingen, fine retrospect of the Monch, Eiger, and Schreckhorn. The Gemmi. — From Spies (SpiezerJwf, lake baths; Schonegg ), road into the Frutigthal {2\ hrs. ; also from Thun) and to Kandersteg {Victoria). 1 -horse carriage, Spiez to Frutigen, 10 fr. ; to Kandersteg, 18 fr. 2-horse carriage, 18 and 35 fr. From Kandersteg a bridle-path leads over the Gemmi pass (7,553 ft. high), amid mag- nificent scenery, and down to the Baths of Leuk (23-j M. ; guide, 7 fr. ; horse, 20 fr. ; horse to top of pass, 15 fr.). The steamer touches at Spiez , Oberhofen , etc., and backs down the Aare to Scherzligen, close to Thun {Hotel de Thun ; Bellevue ; Freienhof ; Kreuz ; Krone), a prettily situated village, with quaint street- architecture ; a castle built in 1182 ; the Federal Mili- tary School ; and numerous fashionable summer-hotels. Rly. to Berne, 1 hr. (3 fr. 35 c., 2 fr. 35 c., 1 fr. 70 c.). Berne, Freiburg, Lausanne, Geneva. Berne {Berner kof and Bellevue , both with fine views of the Bernese Alps; Schweierzhof ; Be France ; Vic- toria; Du Jura ; Pfistern ), the capital of Switzerland (14,000 inhab.), on a sandstone peninsula high over the Aare, has pleasant arcaded streets and mediaeval houses and fountains, and is a favorable place to rest after journeying in the Alps. See fine Gothic Cathedral (1573), with quaint carvings and famous organ; Cathe- dral-Terrace , viewing the entire Bernese range, Wetter- horn, Finster-Aarhorn, Monch, Eiger, Jungfrau, etc., and the beautiful roseate sunset effect of the Alpen- Glow ; statues of Rudolph von Erlach and Berthold von Zahringen ; Museum (open daily, 1 fr.) of natural history and antiquities; 'University , 400 students, and rich library ; liathhaus, built 1406 : Bear-Pit , with 288 FREIBURG.— LAUSANNE. bears, maintained at the cost of the municipality ; Arsenal , and military curiosities ; Clock-Tower , built in 1191, with quaint automata ; Corn Hall, over great wine cellars; Ogre Fountain, etc. The Fed- eral Palace (open daily, 1 fr.) is a noble Florentine building (1857), in which the national councils hold their sessions (in July). On its upper floor is a gallery (daily, 50 c.) of paintings, mostly modern ; and from the roof is gained a famous view of the Alps and city. Beautiful views also from the Schdnzli and the Enge, near Berne. From Berne by rly. in 1-14 hr. (fares 34 fr. , 24 fr. , 1 fr. 85 c.) to Freiburg ( Hotel de Fribourg : de Suisse), founded (like Berne) by Berthold von Zahringen in 1175, and standing on sandstone cliffs over the river Sarine, a nobly picturesque situation. See the Gothic Church (built 1283), in which is a renowned organ of 7,800 pipes, said to have the richest tone in the world (con- cert at dusk, summer evenings, 1 fr.) ; the 16th-century Rathhaus , with its venerable lime-tree and stairway to the lower town ; and the Suspension Bridge , 800 ft. long and 168 ft. above the river. The descent hence to Lausanne (42 M.) is one of the most beautiful routes in Europe. Take seat on 1. side, to see the Lake of Geneva and its picturesque shores. Exquisite view after emerging from the tunnel beyond Chexbres (the stat. for Yevav). Lausanne ( Riche Monte ; Du Faucon ; Bellevue ; Beau Site; Du Grand Pont ; Gibbon , where Gibbon wrote part of his history), with its lovely views over the lake, has become a favorite summer-resort and place of residence (27,000 inhab.). See Gothic Ca- thedral (Protestant), built 1235-75, where Calvin and others held a famous debate, in 1536, resulting in Prot- estantizing Yaud. It is reached by 164 steps from GENEVA. — FERNEY. 289 the market-place; and the plain symmetrical interior is 300 ft. long. The old Episcopal Castle (now Cantonal Council-Hall) commands a broad prospect. See the two museums. From the Signal , J hr. walk out, the best view is gained. Continue on this route, by the lovely villages of Morges, Nyon, and Coppet, to Geneva ( Grand Hotel cle la Paix ; Des Bergues ; Be Russie ; Beau Rimge ; B y Anglet err e ; National / Schweizerhof ; Victoria; Bauer et de la Gare ; Rich- mont ; Metropole; Du Mont Blanc ; Be la Poste ; Du Lac ; De Paris ; Balance ; De Geneve), a city of 70,000 inhab., in a pretty situation at the foot of the Lake of Geneva, and divided into two parts by the swift and rushing blue Rhone. The favorite prom- enade, the Mont-Blanc Bridge, crosses between the lake and Rousseau s Island , on which is a statue of Rousseau. Broad quays, lined with handsome buildings and hotels, face the river and lake. Beautiful views of Mont Blanc from the Quai du Mont Blanc and the pier beyond. The Cathedral (Protestant), “the St. Peter’s of the North,” is a plain 13th-century building (50 c.), con- taining several old monuments. Here Calvin preached. His house is close by ; and his grave is in Plain-Palais cemetery. Rousseau’s birthplace was No. 40 Grand 5 Rue. See Musee Pol, antiquities ; Musee Rath (daily, 11-3), with many paintings and casts; Florentine Hotel de Ville, with inclined planes instead of stairs; National Monument, bronze group by the lake; the Academy (1867-71), with large library and MSS., and famous natural-history collections ; and the vast new monument to Duke Charles II. of Brunswick, on the Place des Alpes. Excursions. — To Ferney, 4| M. N. W. (hourly omnibus over a route rich in views), where Voltaire 290 LAKE OF GENEVA. — COPPET. founded a town, built factories, a chateau, and a ch. (inscribed Deo erexit Voltaire ) ; to the imposing new Rothschild villa, at Pregny ; to the Saleve , 4 M. S. E., a limestone mt., 4,278 ft. high, giving a panoramic view of the Mont-Blanc chain, the Juras, and the Lake of Geneva ; to Les Voirons , another far- viewing mt. ; to the villas where dwelt Voltaire, Byron, Lola Montez, and the Empress Josephine ; to the Erencli stronghold of Fort cle VEcluse ; and to the Ferte du Rhone , where, at low water, the river vanishes in a deep canon. The Lake of Geneva, the Lacus Lemanus of the Romans, and Lac Leman of the French, is the largest Swiss lake, being about 50 X 9 M. (225 sq. M.) in area, and 1,230 ft. above the sea. It is in the form of a half-moon. The water is deep blue, and contains but few fish. It never freezes over, and has mysterious rises and falls, strong currents, and water-spouts. Voltaire arid Rousseau, Byron and Goethe, have praised Its magnificent scenery. Scores of villages line the shores, but have little commerce on the water. Capital steamboats ply here. The S. coast boat runs in 4J-5 firs. (6 fr., 3 fr.) by Thonon, capital of Chablais ; and Evian ( Hotel de France ; Evian; Des Bains ), a beautiful and fashion- able French summer-resort, with fine views of Lausanne ; to Bouveret , at the end of the lake (rly. to Martigny). The better route is along the N. shore, 4J hrs. (7 i fr., 3 fr.) from Geneva by Versoix , once a French town; Coppet ( Croix Blanche'), whose castle was long time the home and is now the burial-place of JSFecker, the famous finance-minister, and his daughter, Madame de Stael* Nyon ( Beau Rivage ; Ange ), a lovely village, with a massive 12th-century castle, and a splendid view of Mont Blanc ; Rolle, birthplace of ILa Harpe, to whom an obelisk has been raised on an MORGES. — VEVAY. — NEUCHATEL. 291 adjacent island ; Morges, with a castle once occupied by Bertha, Queen of Burgundy ; Ouchy ( Hotel Beau Ricage ; H Angleterre ; Roseneck, whence rly. in 6 min., 50 c., 25 c.) to Lausanne; Corsier, close to the impos- ing and far-viewing Grand Hotel de Vevay, in gardens of magnolias and rose-trees ; Vevay ( Grand Hotel de Vevay ; Monnet ; Du Lac), a sheltered nook with semi- tropical climate, much visited by invalids and summer loiterers, and celebrated in Rousseau's Nouvelle Heloise ; Clarens, with many villas and pensions , and natural beauties extolled by Byron and Rousseau; and Mon- treux ( 'Hotel de V Union ; Pont), a shelter for consump- tives ; to Villeneuve, at the end of the lake (rly. to Martigny, etc.). Pleasant walk thence to the famous Castle of Chillon (2 M. ; entrance, 50 c.), whose dungeons and their illustrious prisoner have been im- mortalized by Byron. It is 3^ M. thence to Clarens, whence 3 \ M. to Vevay. Neuch&tel ( Bellevue ; Du Commerce ; Faucon), 2-21 krs. by rly. from Lausanne, stands on an amp hit heat ricai slope of the Jura, sloping down to the lake, and is famous for watches. Wealthy citizens have endowed it nobly. See splendid Gymnasium and Academy, museums, Library (70,000 vols.), new College, Picture- Gallery (J fr.) of fine modern Swiss paintings, ancient Castle, and the 3 great hospitals. Agassiz was once a professor here. The Lake of Neuchatel, 21 X 5 M. in area, lies at the foot of the Juras, with level shores and deep waters. At its S. end is Yverdon ( Hotel de Londres ; Croix Federale), where Pestalozzi conducted his school (1805-25). Steamboats run from Neuchatel to Estavayer, and into the gloomy Lake of Morat famous in Roman and Burgundian history. To the N.. 1 hr. by rly. from Berne, is Bienne, a lovely Bernese town of 8,000 inhab., neai Chasseral mt. The Lake 232 AIGLE. — THE COL DE BALME. of Bienne (7 M. long) contains the Beterinsel , where Rousseau took refuge when driven from Geneva (in 1765). Chamounix and Mont Blanc. From Geneva by steamer to Villeneuve, rly. thence to Mar- tigny, and across to Chamounix. Diligence or char-a-banc from Geneva in 7£hrs. (21 fr. ; coupe, 25 fr. ). Carriage, l -horse, 45 fr. ; 2-horse, 80 fr. This route is at first rather dull. France is entered at Annemasse. Dinner at Sallanches. Fare by boat and rly., Geneva to Martigny, 13 fr. 90 c., 9 fr. 60 c., 6 fr. 90 c. Ascending the Rhone Valley from Villeneuve, the rly. passes Aigle ( Grand Hotel des Bains ; Beau Site), a pleasant summer-resort; and Bex ( Grand Hotel des Salines ; Unions, whence route to Sion, across the Col de Cheville. Beautiful views of the Dent du Midi, while nearing St. Maurice ( Ecu de Valais ; Des Alpes ; Dent du Midi), a very old town with a 4th century abbey, enshrining rare curiosities; a stalactite grotto; and picturesque fortifications. Be- yond Emonnaz stat. see the Pissevache fall (200 ft.) on the r. This is best visited from Vernayaz {Hotel des Gorges ; Des Alpes), which is also very near the cele- brated^ du Trient. Martigny {H. Clerc ; De la Gave; Aigle; Mont Blanc; St. Bernard) is the starting- point of the routes over the Simplon (to Lake Maggiore) and the Great St. Bernard (to Aosta), and over the passes to Chamounix. You can visit Chamounix ; ascend to the top of the St. Bernard ; return to Mar- tigny ; and go thence over the Simplon. The Col de Balme. — Martigny to Chamounix, 9-10 hrs. ; mule and attendant, 24 fr. and gratuity (2 mules, 36 fr.). Carriage-road as far as Trient, where lunch is taken. Grand view of the Mont-Blanc CHAMOUNIX. — MONT BLANC. 293 group. Path in 2 hrs. to Col de Balme {Hotel Suisse ), 7,231 ft. high, the boundary between Swiss Valais and French Savoy, with amazing prospect of mts. Descend the Arve valley thence to Tour and Argentiere {Bellevue) ; whence road (1-horse carriage, 5 fr., and 1 fr. to driver} to Chamounix (Hotel Saussure ; Royal ; De la Paix; Suisse ; Londres ; Angleterre; Mont Blanc ; Union ), in the Arve valley, 3,445 ft. high, at the foot of Mont Blanc, which has 15-20,000 visitors yearly, and is one of the chief centres for Alpine tourists. Booms should be secured in advance. The whole valley is worthy of study, and has scores of points of interest. Tariffs for guides and mules (strictly observed) may be obtained at chief guide’s office. In a day you may ascend the Montanvert (easy bridle-path, 2|hrs.), whence Tyn- dall studied glacier movement ; cross the wonderful Mer de Glace to the rocky cliffs of the Chapeau (path i*i the ice, 1J hrs.), where there is an inn; descend to lies Praz ; climb thence to La Flegere (path in 2i hrs. ; inn on summit, 6,260 ft. high), whence magnificent view of the vast snowy Mont Blanc, Aiguille Vert, Mer de Glace, etc. ; and return to Chamounix. On the descent to Les Praz, you may visit the source of the Arveiron. The Jardin is among the rocks on the Glacier de Talefre, wdiere Alpine flowers bloom in August. The Brfcvent, one of the Aiguilles Bouges, 8,284 ft. high, commanding the best view of Mont, Blanc, may be climbed by path in 1 hrs. Mont Blanc, the highest of the Alps (15,781 ft.), the boundary between France and Italy, was first ascended in 1786. About l^parties now ascend yearly (3—4 persons, 100 fr. each, for guides, etc.). Many valuable lives have been lost here, but in fine weather and with duo caution there is little danger. First day’s 294 ST. BERNARD PASS. climb to stone huts on Grands Mulcts (10,007 fc.) ; second, to summit and back ; third, from Grands Mulets to Chamounix. The Tete-Noire affords a good route from Chamou- nix to Martigny (9-10 hrs.). Highway to Argentiere , whence bridle-path up a ravine • across the Col des Montets ; near the Poyaz and Barberine Cascades ; through Valor cine village and Le Chatelard ; through the rocky Tete-Noire pass ; and down through Trient to Martigny. The St. Bernard and Simplon Passes.— Zermatt. Martigny to the Hospice, 11^ hrs., a very interesting journey. Start at mom (2-horse carriage, 45 fr. and gratuity) ; or pass night at Orsieres, ascend to Hospice to breakfast, and return to Martigny after noon. Daily diligence to Bourg St. Pierre. The road ascends the Dranse valley to Orsieres ( Hotel des Alpes) ; climbs steeply 5 M. to Liddes (Angleterre ; Union), whence mule and guide to Hospice, 8-9 fr. ; by Bourg St. Pierre {Au Dejeuner de Napoleon) and Cantine de Proz , the end of the road. 7 M. distant, through the Defile de Marengo , at the top of the pass, is St. Bernard Hospice, 8,120 ft. above the sea, occupied since 962 by French Augustinian monks, who give free hospi- tality to all travellers. 20,000 peasants are fed here every year; and in summer many tourists come. No charge is made for food, etc., but well-to-do travellers put money in the poor-box of the ch. The convent, very rich in the Middle Ages, is now poor. Its pro- visions are brought from Italy. See Napoleon’s monu- ment to Dessaix, in the chapel ; the great library ; the Morgue; and the noble dogs. The pass has been ZERMATT. — SIMPLON PASS. 295> crossed by vast armies of Romans, Lombards, Pranks, and Germans; and in 1799 heavy, fighting occurred liere between the Austrians and Napoleon’s troops. It is 6 hrs. hence to Aosta, in Italy. Zermatt {Hotel du MonUCermn ; Mont-Rose') is approached from Martigny by rly. to Vispach (2f-3 hrs.), whence bridle-path to St.Niklaus (4J Ins.), from which highway, 12^ M. A grand route, among gorges, cascades, and rocky peaks, with vast mts. in advance* The village is the highest in Europe (7>021 ft.), con- tinuously inhabited, and is in the very heart of the Alps, in a glen invaded by 3 glaciers and overtopped by the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, and other vast peaks. Its ch.-yard has graves of several famous men who lost their lives on these mts. The Riffelberg (with hotel) h 3 hrs. distant, by bridle-path ; and 1-| hr. beyond is the rocky crest of Gorner Grat, 10,290 ft. high, with su perb view of Monte Rosa’s rocky pyramids (16,132 ft.) on the S. E. ; the black Breithorn (13,685 ft.), on tin S. ; the craggy Matterhorn (14,705 ft.), on the W*/ the Dent Blanche, Gabelhorn, Morning, the Mischabel and the Allaleinhorn, in the N. ; with many vast glacier 1 and noted passes. Prom Zermatt visit the Gome i Glacier (12 M. long), which is larger than the Mer de Glace ; the Pindelen Glacier ; and to the Cima di Jazi (12,526 ft.), by the Riffelberg. The St. Theodule Pass- leads to Aosta. Monte Rosa (15,217 ft.) is often climbed, even by ladies (up and back, 12-14 lirs.). The fatal Matterhorn is ascended by several parties yearly (a severe 2-days’ trip). The Simplon. — Rly. from Martigny in 2^—3 hrs. (11 fr. 85 c., 7 fr. 90c., 5 fr. 95 c ), by Saxon-les-Bains {Grand Hotel ; casino and gaming-table) , with iodated waters, good for skin-diseases ; beautiful Sion (H. du Midi ; Poste), with' old castles. Gothic cathedral, 2 fine 296 SIMPLON PASS. old chs. } and 5,000 inhab. ; mediaeval Sierre ( Bellevue ), with the chateaux of the Valais nobles ; Leuk , a few miles from the Baths of Leuk ( Hotel des Alpes ; Bellevue ; De France), and at the foot of the Gem mi Pass ; and Visp (route to Zermatt) . Prom the end of the rly., at Brieg ( Hotel d’ Angleterre) , diligences cross the Simplon Pass in 9-10 hrs. (39 M. ; fares, 16 fr. 55 c. ; coupe, 19 fr. 65 c.), to Domo d’ Ossola. Napoleon built this great road, in 1801-6, at a cost of $3,600,000, for a military route into Italy. There are numerous houses of refuge where the road nears the glaciers. The crest of the pass is 6,594 ft. high, in an open val- ley among glaciers. Beyond, near Monte Leone, is the Hospice, whose monks are hospitable to all comers. Magnificent mt. -scenery on upper reaches of pass. The road descends 5J M. to Simplon ( Poste ), and through the Gondo Ravine. \ M. beyond the hamlet of Gondo it enters Italy, and passes down, by several villages, through wild and picturesque gorges, by the Crevola Gallery, and over the lofty Doveria Bridge , to Domo d’ Ossola. (See page 298.) ROUTES INTO ITALY. 297 ITALY. T HE money of Italy is reckoned in lire and centesimi , which correspond to francs and centimes. The paper money, with which the country is flooded, is about 2 per cent, below par. Beware of counterfeits ; also of taking large bank-notes in one city which may not be good in another. See Chapter on Travel , for general observations on Italy. Many complaints have been made of thefts in the Italian post-office. We recommend travelers not to send money to Italy in registered letters, and not to expect to receive it in that manner while in Italy. It is well also not to carry valuable jewelry, or money, in trunks. Routes into Italy. 1. Paris to Turin , by Mt. Cenis, 496f M. ; 21 (express) to 30 hrs. ; fares, 100 fr. 10 c., 72 fr. 55 c., 54 fr. 15 c. Route leads through Fontainebleau, Ton- nerre, Montbard(Buffon’s home), Dijon, Macon, Culoz, Chambery, and Modane (frontier stat. ; change cars). The Mt.-Cenis Tunnel, 8 M. long, was built 1861- 71, at a cost of $15,000,000. Trains for Italy run through it in 45 min. ; trains for France, in 25 min. 2. Paris to Genoa , by Marseilles and Nice , 790J M. ; fares, 155 fr. 90 c.. 105 fr. 35 c., 84 fr. 30 c. Ely. from Genoa via Alessandria, to Turin ; or from Savona , W. of Genoa, to Turin (5| hrs.). 3. Geneva to Milan , by the Simplon, see p. 295. 4. Lucerne to Milan , by the St. Gothard (see p. 280), through Fliielen, Airolo, and Bellinzona, and thence rlv. by Como. Or rly. through from Lucerne to Milan (fare, ‘36 fr. 70 c.). 298 LAKE MAGGIORE. 5. Coire to Milan , by tbe Spliigen, to Chiavenna and Colico, whence steamer to Como, and rly. to Milan. Or by Bernardino Pass , Coire to Bellinzona, whence rly. Or by Julier and Bernina Passes , Coire to Sama- den, Tirano, and Colico, whence steamer to Como ; and rly. to Milan. 6. Basle to Milan , by the Stelvio. Ely. to Con- stance and Bludenz ; diligence to Landeck,’ Nanders, Bormio, and Colico ; steamer and rly. to Milan, 7. Munich to Verona , by Brenner Pass, see p. 264. 8. Vienna to Venice , by the Semmering, all rly., by Bruch and Villach, through magnificent scenery. Leave Vienna at 7 a.m.; reach Venice, 11 p.m. Or rly. from Vienna to Trieste, and steamer thence to Venice. The Tour of the Italian Lakes. Domo d’ Ossola ( Grand Hotel de la Ville ; D’AV 'pagne') is a pretty southern village, with a charming view from the Calvary , J hr. distant. Railway to Novara (55 M. ; 3| hrs. ; 10 1. 30 c. , 7 1. 15 c. , 4 1. 60 c.) passing the ruined castle of Vogogna ; Ornavasso, with a castle of the Visconti, and the quarries whence Milan Cathedral was hewn ; Qravellona ; through the valley of the Strona to Omegna at the N. end of the Lake of Orta. Thence along thfe shore of the lake, beautiful views, to Oozzano ; through the valley of the Agogna to Novara , whence Milan can be reached by rly. in If hr. Diligence from Gravellona to Pallanza, on Lake Maggiore (6 M.; 1 hr.; 1 1., outside, 1} 1.) ; to Stresa (7-JM.; 1 hr. ; 1 1 . 20 c. ; 11.80c.). It is wise to make a tour of the lakes (1-2 days) before going to Milan. Lake Maggiore, 37 X4^ M. in area, and of vast depth, is very beautiful, with the rich plains and vine- yards on the S., and the great mts. on the N. There are marble and granite quarries on its shores, and rich ARONA. — BORROME AN ISLANDS. 299 mines. Arona (. Ancora ; Albergo Reale), on the S.,‘is an old town, with rare paintings in its ch. On the hill is a copper and bronze statue, 70 ft. high, of St. Charles Borromeo (1697), the famous Cardinal- Arch- bishop of Milan, who died in 1584. The head will hold 3 persons (ladders ascend to it, inside). Steamer from Arona to Locarno (4 1. 80 c., 2 1. 65 c.). It calls at Stresa (Hotel des lies Borromees ; Milan), with its tine monastery and cypress-trees; and Baveno (Grand Hotel; Bellevue; Beau Rivage; Baveno). The shores are lined with villas ; and in the N. glimmer the Alps, Monte Rosa, St. Gothard, etc. The beautiful Borro- mean Islands are touched at (see Jean Paul Richter’s description). Isola Bella ( Hotel du Dauphin) has the great palace of the Borromeo family (open daily ; 11.), rising over 10 terraces of gardens, rich in flowers and fountains. Isola Madre has an empty palace, above 7 terraces, laden with orange and lemon trees, cedars, and cypresses. Boat with 2 men, from Baveno, 5 1. first hr., 1 1. others. Arona to Isola Bella, by steamer, 1 \ 1., 90 c. ; fare thence, by Pariolo, Intra, and Laveno, 11. 85 c., 11. 15 c., to Luino. Opposite is Cannero, among the vineyards, with ancient brigands’ castles off- shore. Lovely villages appear on either coast. The steamer keeps on N. to Locarno ( Grand Hotel Lucarno ; Corona ; Svizzera ), in the Swiss Canton of Ticino, to which the upper part of the lake belongs. See ch., with good pictures ; Cantonal buildings ; and Ch. of Madonna del Sasso, on the hill, visited by myriads of pilgrims. Rly. hence to Bellinzona, whence diligence over the Spliigen. Return by boat (2 1 10c„ 11. 20 c.) to Luino (Hotel du Simplon ; Post a ; Vittorio), a fa- vorite summer-resort, with the Crivelli Palace and Garibaldi’s statue. Steam tramway (1 h.; 21. 65c., 1 1. 300 LAKE LUGANO.— LAKE COMO. 45 c.) to Ponte Tresa , thence steamboat (50 min., 41. 50 c., 2 1. 70 c.) to Lugano ( Hotel du Parc , an old convent ; Washington , once the Government palace ; Splendide ; Svizzera), a Swiss cantonal capital, in- habited by Italians, amid exquisite scenery and rich villas. See S. Lorenzo Ch .; Sta. Maria , with Luini’s frescos ; Wm. Tell’s statue ; and old convents and palaces. Excursion to Mt. S. Salvadore (2,982 ft. high) in 2 hrs. (guide and horse, 7 1). View of Alps. Lake Lugano is a series of deep, sinuous gulfs among the ruts., 14 M. long and 3 M. wide, Swiss on one side, Italian on the other, in a climate of perpetual spring, and amid very lovely scenery. The adjacent peaks overlook the Lombard plain, down to Milan. Steamer from Lugano (2J1., 11.), by Osteno , near a remarkable grotto, to Porlezza, a quaint village in an amphitheatre of hills; or S., to Capolago, whence rail- way to Como. Steam tramway (about 9 M. ; 1 hr. ; 2 1. 65 c., 1 1. 45c.) from Porlezza, b}' Piano and Croce, and through a rich country, with Lake Como below and the Alps in sight from the Spliigen to the Ortler Spitz, to Menaggio {Grand Hotel ; Vittoria ; Corona ), on Lake Como. This is a good point for excursions ; and on the hill is the Villa Vigoni , with fine sculptures. Lake Como, the Lacus Larins of the Romans, is shaped like the letter Y, and is 32 M. long, 2-3 M. wide, and 1,800 ft. deep. It is one of the loveliest lakes in the world, and its natural charms of mts., vineyards, and forests are heightened by the white Italian hamlets and the splendid vdlas of Milanese families. Cross to Bellaggio {Grande Bretagne ; Bellaggio ; Genazzini ; Villa Serbelloni ; Florence; Suisse), a favorite Anglo- American resort. The Villa Melzi (1 1.) has splendid sculptures (by Canova) and frescos, and a famous garden. From Villa Serbelloni , best view on the COMO. — LAKE OF GARDA. 301 lake. Across the lake is Cadennabbia ( Bellevue ; Belle He; Britannia ), near the celebrated Villa Car- lotta (fee 1 1.), rich in finest sculptures of Canova and Thorwaldsen. Steamer from Bellaggio to Golico , whence rly. (17 M. ; 31. 10 c., 2 1. 15 c., 1 1. 40 c.) to Chiavenna, and diligence over the Spliigen (12 hrs. ; 22 1., outside 26 1. 65 c.) to Coire (see p. 278). Return thence to Colico and take steamer (3J-5 hrs.; 4 1. 70 c. , 2 1. 60 c.) through the lake, noting castles of Musso and many beautiful hamlets, to Como (Hotel Vol- ta ; Italia; Cappello), a place of 25,000 inhab., with statues of its eminent natives, the elder and the younger Pliny, and Volta, the electrician. See marble Lomoard-Gotliic Cathedral (1396), with fine paintings (by Guido, Veronese, etc.) and sculptures, and vivid coloring ; Ch. of Crocefisso , richly adorned ; basilica of S. Abbondio , 1 M. out ; ancient Fort a del Torre; and handsome old Broletto , or town-hall. Steamers run from Bellaggio down the picturesque Lake of Lecco, an arm of Como, to Lecco, at the foot of the high Rese- gone peaks (rly. to Milan). Como to Milan, 30 M. ; If hrs. (5 \ 1., 3 1. 85 c., 2J 1.). The Lake of Orta, 9 X la M. in area, is charm- ingly situated among the Piedmontese hills. Omnibus (2J1.) from Arona to Orta {Hotel S. Giulio ; Leone I Oro), a marble-paved hamlet on a promontory, near the Sacro Monte , a height dotted with chapels, and looking up on Monte Rosa. — The Lake of Iseo is 15 X H M. in area, winding, in S shape, among groves of mulberries and figs and gardens of roses and camel- lias. Railway from Brescia (15 M. ; 1} hr. : 21. 75 c., 1 1. 90 c., 1 1. 25,0.) to Iseo (Hotel Leone), whence steamer to beautiful Sarnico and Lovere. — The great Lake of Garda, 37 X 10 M. in area, 1,000 ft. deep, with clear blue -waters, abounding in fish, and very picturesque shores, is traversed by steamboats, running from Des- enzano) (the home of Catullus) or Peschiera (near the 302 MILAN. battle-field of Solferino), on the Milan- Yerona rly., to Riva, a beautiful Austrian village at the N. end. The North-Italian Cities. Milan ( 'Hotel de la Ville ; Cavour ; Milan ; Gran Bretagna, all expensive; Francia ; Europa ; Manin; Roma ; Falcond), is a beautiful and enterprising city (315,000 inhab.), 9 M. around, in the centre of the rich Lombard plain. It was founded 400 b.c. ; a capital in the 3d century; sacked by Attila in 452; a Lombard city in 568 ; annexed by Charlemagne ; destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa in 1162 ; rebuilt by the Lombard League ; governed by the Visconti and Sforza families, 1312-1545 ; conquered by Francis I. in 1515 ; annexed by Charles Y. soon after, and Spanish till 1714; capital of Italy, 1805-14; an Aus- trian garrison, 1814-59 ; and since then Italian. Man- zoni was born here ; also 5 Popes ; and Yirgil studied here. The magnificent Gothic Cathedral, second only to St. Peter’s and Seville Cathedrals in size, was built 1386-1500. It is cruciform, with double aisles and transept-aisles, separated by 52 pillars, each 12 ft. in diameter, with niches crowded with statues. Interior 477 ft. long, 183 ft. wide, and 155 ft. high. It con- tains 6,000 statues, a pavement of marble mosaic, vast granite monoliths, superb stained windows, many tombs of magnates, St. Carlo Borromeo’s wooden crucifix and gorgeous tomb, and life-size silver statues of saints (in the Treasury). The wonderful marble roof (entered from r. transept, 5 a.m. till dusk, 25 c.), with 98 Gothic turrets, hundreds of pinnacles, and over 2,000 life-size marble statues (some by Canova), should be carefully studied (2-3 hrs.). Ascend (at early morn) to the MILAN. 303 upper gallery of the tower (494 steps), which is 360 ft. high, and view the Lombard plain, Apennines, and Alps (Mt. Cenis, Blanc, St. Bernard, Rosa, Mat- terhorn, Mischabel, Leone, St. Gothard, Splilgen, Ortler, Spitz, etc.). Watchman here, with tele- scope. Cross Cathedral Sq., and enter the Victor- Emmanuel Gallery, the finest arcade in the world; built in 1865-7 at a cost of $1,600,000 ; 960 ft. long, 48 wide, 94 high, surrounded by handsome shops; richly frescoed ; and adorned with statues of Raphael, Galileo, Dante, Cavour, and 20 other famous Italians. The octagon under the dome (180 ft. high) is brilliantly lighted at night, when it forms a favorite promenade. On the adjacent Piazza della Scala , see Leonardo da Vinci’s monument (1872). the massive Municipal Palace (1555), and the great La Scala Theatre , with 3,600 sittings (1 1. to see building ; famous ballets here, in season). Near by is the Jesuit ch. of San Fedele (1569). The Brera, once a Jesuit college (1675), is a great palace built around a quadrangle adorned with statues ; and contains a library of 200,000 vols., a celebrated gallery (open daily, 9-4, 11.; free on Sun.) of 400 paintings ; noble archaeological museum ; and sculptures (get catalogue). The Piazza de'Armi, N.W. of Milan, has the Arena built by Napoleon I., and holding 30,000 spectators ; the Castle of the Sforzas, built 1358 ; and the great triumphal marble Arch, ending the Simplon route, founded by Napoleon (1804) to record his victories, and finished by Austria (1830), with reliefs showing the victories over France. Grand statues on summit. The Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the chief business street, and contains S. Carlo Borromeo (a copy of the Roman Pantheon), and several palaces. See Piazza dei Mercanti, with Exchange and 13th-century palace of the Podesta; Piazza Beccaria , with statue of Beccaria; 304 LA CERTOSA. and the Roman, Garibaldi, and Tosa Gates. S. Am< brogio, founded by St. Ambrose (4th century), is a Romanesque ch., rich in monuments of ancient Chris- tianity, 8th-century reliefs, 9th-century mosaics, Stili- cho’s sarcophagus, the brazen serpent of Moses. Here Augustine embraced Christianity ; Ambrose closed the gates against the Emperor Theodosius ; and the Lom- bard and German sovereigns received the Iron Crown. In the refectory (1 1.), near the rich old abbey-ch. of S. Maria delle Grazie , are the remains of Leonardo da Vinci’s grand fresco of The Last Supper. See the 4th- century octagonal A. Lorenzo, and its colonnade ; S. Maria di S. Celso, with remarkable paintings, sculptures, and atrium ; S. Maurizio (Benedictine), with noble frescos by Luini. The Ambrosian Library (open 10-3, 1 L), founded (1609) by Cardinal Borromeo, has 160,000 vols., 15,000 MSS., many literary curiosities, and several hun- dred paintings. The Civic Museum (Tues., Wed., Sat., 11-3 ; 50 c.) has large natural-history collections. See the Ospedale Maggiore (1457), a vast hospital • with 9 courts; Military Hospital; Manzoni’s house ; palaces of Borromeo, Litta, Omoneni, Trivulzio, and Ciani families ; Cemetery, with cremation-temple ; Pub- lic Gardens, where Exhibition of 1881 was held; Arch- bishops' Palace, near Cathedral, with fine court (1565) ; and Royal Palace, adjacent, with huge Napoleonic frescos La Certosa (1 hr. by rly. ; 3 1. 20 c., 2 1. 25 c., 1 1. 60 c.), in a fertile and populous plain, was one of the most sumptuous monasteries in the world, and be- longed to the Carthusians. It was founded in 1396 by the Visconti; and here Francis I. was a prisoner in 1525. The ch., with 14 columns, a high dome, mosaic floor, monuments, and frescos, is crowded with precious things. The rich Renaissance fapade (1473) is in PAVIA. — ALESSANDRIA. — TURIN. 305 colored marbles, with delicate carvings. Grand clois- ters, with slender marble pillars, and monks’ houses. Pavia ( Groce Bianca ; Lombardia) is a little way S. (fares from Milan, 4 1. 10 c., 2 1. 85 c., 2 1. 10 c.). See unfinished Cathedral , richly decorated ; Promenade , along Ticino River ; University , the oldest in Europe ; old Romanesque Ch. of S. Michele , with Giottesque frescos, colossal statue of Ghislieri; towers on the walls ; and Castle, built 13.60. Pavia to Cremona and Brescia, 14 1. 5 c., 9 1. 85 c., 71. 5 c.; to Piacenza, 6 1. 85 c., 4 1. 80 c., 3 1. 45 c. Prom La Certosa the fares are 7 1. 40 c., 5 1. 20 c., 3 1. 75 c., to Alessandria (Rly. Restaurant ; Europa ; Italia ), a huge fortress (60,000 inhab.), whose ap- proaches can be flooded in war-time. Citadel built, 1728, by Victor Amadeo II. Hence in 2|-3 hrs. (10 1. 20 c., 7 1. 30 c., 5 1. 15 c.) to Turin (Hotel deV Europe; Be la Ligurie ; Feder ; B’Angleterre et Trombetta ; Be Turin), a prosperous city of 220,000 inliab., on the plain of the Po, near the Graian Alps. It was destroyed by Hannibal (218 b.c.) and Alaric ; was a Roman colony ; a bishopric under Charlemagne ; capital of Savoy and Sardinia, and of Italy (1859-65). It is laid out with Philadelphian regularity, and surrounded by umbrageous promenades, on site of old walls. The Palazzo Madama is a huge mediaeval pile, centrally situated ; and once the Senate- house of Italy. Across the Piazza Castello is the Royal Palace , a ponderous old brick building (usually open), richly furnished, and with fine statuary, library (50,000 vols. ; open, 9-4), and armorv (daily, 11-3 ; 50 c.), with Roman, Prench, and Austrian standards, Cellini’s metal-work, weapons, armor, etc. The hand- some and busy Via di Po , with arcades, runs thence to the Po bridge. The Palace of the Duke of Genoa 306 TURIN. — NOVARA. is connected with that of the King. The Royal and Zoological Gardens are open 11-3 (music at 1). In the Palazzo delV Accademia are collections in natural history, sculptures, Egyptian antiquities, a library of 40,000 vols., and a gallery (open daily; get catalogue) of 600 pictures, many of them of great interest. The Cathedral (1498) contains the Cappella del SS. Sudario , a high-domed round chapel of brown marble, where the sovereigns of Savoy are buried. La Consolata eh. contains a revered image of the Virgin. The palaces and arcades of the Piazza dello Statuto were erected by an English company, and surround a memorial of the Frejus Tunnel. There are many fine statues and groups in the squares, honoring Italian notables. The University, a vast Renaissance palace, has 1,500 stu- dents, and a library of 200,000 volumes. See Albertina Academy of Fine Arts (open daily) ; Municipal Museum; House of Tasso; house where Cavour died; Royal Theatre ; Ch. of Gran Madre di Dio; Cavour s and Emmanuel Philiberfs Monuments ; the great Carignano Palace ; the favorite Public Garden , with chateau of II Valentino; handsome granite bridge; Arsenal; Citadel; Corpus Domini ch., richly decorated; S. Rocco ; S. Andrea; Waldensian Temple; Capuchin Monastery , with grand view of the Alps. The Cemetery , 1| M. N. E., has tombs of Silvio Pellico, Massimo d’ Azeglio, Gioberti, etc. La Superga, on a hill E. of Turin, viewing city and Alps (Monte Rosa), is a splendid ch., built in 1717, with the tombs of Sardinian kings. The Valleys of the Waldenses are 30-40 M. S. W. of Turin. From Turin you may go to Milan (171., Ill- 90c., 81. 55 c.) by Novara (fire Re; Italia ), a large Pied- montese market-town, where Peter Lombard was born in 1100. The 4th-century Cathedral has columns, of an older pagan temple. 1 BERGAMO. — BRESCIA. 307 Turin to Venice, 257 M. ; 10^ hrs., express ; fares, £7 1. 10 c., 33 1. 5 c., 23 1. 65 c. Milan to Bergamo (39 M.; 2 hrs.), 51. 90 c., 41. 15 c., 21. 95 c.; to Brescia, 11J1., 81. 5 c., 51. 75 c.; to Verona, 181. 30 c.; to Venice, 311. 80 c., 22 1. 80 c., 161. 30 c. Take morning train. Bine scenery and interesting cities. Bergamo ( Italia ) is a prosperous fortified provincial and episcopal capital (38,000 inhab.). Aris- tocratic and governmental Old Tovm on hill, with Cas- tle above it ; commercial New Town below. About the Piazza Garibaldi, Cathedral , splendid Colleoni Chapel, Municipal Palace , and quaint old Gothic Broletto pal- ace. % See very interesting Ch. of Sta. Maria Maggiore (1173), containing tomb of Donizetti; Accademia Carrara , with over 200 ancient paintings ; vast build- ings, with 600 shops, for annual Fair (Aug. 15-Sept. 15). Excursions to Vais Brembana and Seriana , and Lake of Iseo. Brescia ( Albergo d' Italia ; Gambero ; Fenice ) makes famous arms, silks, and cloths (43,000 inhab.) ; was a Gaulish town ; a Homan colony ; Milan’s rival in the 16th century; sacked by Gaston de Foix in 1512; a Venetian garrison, 1517-1797 ; bombarded by Aus- trians in 1849. Beautifully situated at foot of the Alps, surrounded by walls and overlooked by a castle. The Cathedral (built 1604-1825) is of marble, with vast dome. Near by is La Rotonda , the old cathedral (9th century), round, with dome and crypt. See chs. or S. Afra , S. Clemente , and S. Nazzaro e Cel so, rich in pictures ; Galleria Tosi (open 11-3), 13 rooms full of notable paintings ; Biblioteca Quiriniana (open 11-3), 40,000 vols., and rare literary curiosities; Museo Pa-trio (11-3 daily), Roman relics, in a temple built by Vespasian, a.d. 72 ; 12th century Broletto and cam- panile ; handsome Palazzo Comunale (1508), richly 308 SOLFERINO. — VERONA. carved ; and famous Campo Santo, or cemetery. Lake of Garda, see page 301. The rly. to Venice passes Desenzano , whence 41. by carriage to Solferino, where a chapel contains bones of 7,000 soldiers slain in the battle (1859) ; runs along S. shore of Lake of Garda, with lovely views ; through the fortress of Peschiera; to thriving Verona (JOue Torn ; Colombo, d’Oro ; Gran Hotel di Londra ), on the edge of the Tyrol, on a rich plain (68,000 inliab.). First a Gaulish town, 350 b.c. ; then a Roman fortress ; capital of the Gothic empire ; one of Charlemagne’s chief towns ; a republic ; capital of the Scaligers; Venetian appanage for 300 years ; Aus- trian garrison (1797-1866) ; and Italian city. There are 5 bridges over the rapid Adige. Verona is sur- rounded with formidable bastioned walls and detached castles, built by Austria and lately strengthened by Italy. Give a day to its wonderful memorials of Romans, Goths, Lombards, and Carlovingians ; chs. of rare interest ; and venerable palaces. The Cathedral is a stately 14th-century Gothic ch., with cloisters on red-marble columns. Huge pillars inside. Near by is the old 12th-century Baptistery ; also, Bishop s Palace , with colossal statue in courtyard, and library. The Piazza delle Erbe, or fruit-market, is a remarkably picturesque square, once the forum of the Republic, sur- rounded with frescoed palaces, and containing a tali marble pillar where once stood the lion of Venice, the quaint Tribuna (or judgment-seat), the Municipio Tower (330 ft. high), and fountain with statue of Verona. The adjacent Piazza dei Signori, with impos- ing Municipio palace (1183), picturesque court; La Loggia, or Palazzo del Consiglio (1500), with statues of Catullus, Cornelius Nepos, Pliny, Vitruvius, Macer, all natives of Verona; and statue of Dante. Near the VERONA. 30 $ Ch. of Sta. Maria Antica are the very curious and splen- did Gothic Tombs of the Scaliger family , who ruled Verona 1262-1389. S. Anastasia (1261) is an inter- esting Gothic ch., with noble interior. The Arena, on one side the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele (formerly Bra), is a well-preserved Roman Amphitheatre, built by Diocletian or Trajan, and covered with earth and houses in the Middle Ages. The 72 arcades are leased to shop-keepers. It is oval, 1,584 ft. around and 106 ft. high, with 45 tiers, and can accommodate 95,000 spec- tators. The Porta de' Bor sari, a triumphal arch built by the Emperor Gallienus (a. d. 265), is on the Corso Cavour. Bee also 2 arches of Roman bridge ; an arch near old citadel ; and the Arch of the Lions, S. Zenone, in N. W. quarter, founded by Pepin (who was buried there), is the finest mediaeval ch., with rich marble fa 9 ade ; very curious sculptures of Wheel of Fortune, etc. ; portal (1178) resting on red-marble lions ; doors with brazen reliefs ; a grandiose interior, with alternate pillars and columns ; tomb and statue of S. Zeno ; and grand 12th-century cloisters. Near by, through cloisters of S. Bernardino, is Sammicheli’s; beautiful Capella dei Pellegrini. Sammicheli also built the handsome, Stuppa Gate (end of Corso), towards the Castle, now an arsenal, once the palace of the Scaligers. The so-called Tomb of Juliet is a red-marble sar- cophagus, much visited by young ladies. See S. Fermo Maggiore , rich 14th-century Gothic ch., with walnut ceiling. Palazzo Bevilacqua , facade by Sanmicheli- Accaclemia delle Belle Arte (11.), in imposing Palazzo- Pompei, with hundreds of fine old Veronese paintings, Roman antiques, etc. Giusti Garden (25 c.), with cypresses 500 years old, and commanding views of the Alps and Apennines ; Cemetery , surrounded by Doric colonnade ; and the great Castello S. Pietro. 310 ROVEREDO. — MANTUA. — CREMONA. Excursion to Trent , very interesting, and thence down to Vicenza, by Roveredo (9,000 inhab.), where Dante lived in exile. Verona to Munich by the Bren- ner, 63f 1., 47 1. 55 c., 22 1. 15 c. (see p. 265). From Verona, you can visit Mantua (fares, 4 1. 60 c., 3 1. 20 c., 2 1. 30 c.) and Modena (fares, 11 1. 85 c., 8 1., 5f 1.), passing Villafranca , where peace was made be- tween France and Austria in 1859. Mantua ( Aquila d’Oro; Croce Verde) is a dull old fortress (30,000 inhab.), among lakes and marshes. Here Virgil (bom <3 M. S. E.) lived, and Mantegna and Giulio Romano were born. See S. Andrea (1472), a vast ch. with many monuments and frescos, a marble fa 9 ade> and a tall brick tower ; spacious Cathedral; old Ducal Palace <(1302), richly frescoed by Mantegna and Romano ; Accademia Virgiliana , with museum of sculpture (grand view of Tyrolese Alps from square) ; and Palazzo del Te, a huge palace outside the Porta Pusterla , erected by Romano, and adorned with his greatest frescos. From Milan to Mantua direct, in 6 hrs. (fares, 18 1. 20 c., 12f 1., 9 1. 20 c.), by Cremona {Sole d’Oro ; Italia ), on the Po (30,000 inhab.), successively Gaul- ish, Roman, Gothic, Lombard, Austrian* and Italian, and famous for its violins, and now a dull town of wide streets and decaying palaces. See pictures in Public and Royal Palaces (9-3 daily) ; German-Lombard Cathedral, with rich facade and interior crowded with frescos ; Torrazzo (1261-84), a tower 397 ft. high, with arcades to Cathedral; and nobles 5 palaces. Piacenza ( Croce Bianca ; San Marco) may be reached hence tramway ; or by rly. from Milan (7 1. 80 c., 5| 1., 3 1. 90 c. ; rly. from Milan to Bologna, 241.45 c., 17115 c., 12J1.). This town (35,000 inhab.) was founded by the Romans, B.c. 219. See 13th-century Palazzo del Comune , with fine arcades, VICENZA. — PADUA. 311 and equestrian statues of the Parnese princes ; 12th- century Romanesque Cathedral, frescoed by Guercinc and Caracci; S. Francesco (1278), and Romagncsi’s statue ; S. Sisto (1499-1511), for which Raphael painted his noblest Madonna (now at Dresden) ; Palazzo Farnese , built by Vignola in 1558 ; Citadel (1547) ; and S. Antonino , quaint vestibule. Rapid tourists will hasten from Verona to Venice direct, passing through Vicenza ( Quatro Pellegrini Roma; Gran Parigi ), a busy town of 27,000 inh., sur-l rounded with walls and moats, and richly adorned with buildings designed by the great Palladio, a native of Vicenza (1518-80), among which are Casa del Biavolo ; Palazzo Prefettizio , Teatro Olimpico (J.L), etc. Also Basilica , or Palazzo del Consiglio , grand open arcades around town-hall; Barbarano, Tiene, and Valmarano palaces; and Palazzo Chieregati , in which is Civic Museum (9-5 daily), with many paintings, etc. See Palazzo della Rag io tie, very rich Gothic ; Great Tower (1446) ; palaces around Piazza de' Signori ; quaint old bridge, rivalling the Rialto ; dull Gothic Cathedral ; S. Corona , with priceless pictures ; S. Lorenzo ; Berto- liana Library , with rare MSS. ; and Roman Berg a Theatre. On Mt. Berici, pilgrimage-ch. of Madonna del Monte (1428), approached by arcade of 180 pillars (2,145 ft. long). 1-| M. out is Villa Rotonda , Palladio’s work, surrounded by Ionic colonnades. Padua ( Stella d'Oro; Croce d'Oro ; Aguila Nero), between Vicenza and Venice, has 45,000 inhab., and stands on a rich plain, embowered In gardens. Prom a distance its domes and towers and old bastioned walls and bastions present a noble appearance ; but within it appears almost deserted. Its foundation is attributed to Antenor, after the siege of Troy ; and in the Augus- tan age it was the chief city of North Italy. Alaric ,312 PADUA. and Attila both sacked it ; and it was Venetian, 1402- 1797. In 14th century, Padua had more artists than any city (Giotto, etc.). The University, founded in 1238, was long the best in Europe, with 18-20,000 students. Galileo was a professor; Dante, Petrarch, and Tasso were students. It is still famous, and occupies a handsome old palace, with spacious arcades. On a promenade is a long line of statues {2 by Canova) of illustrious graduates, Savonarola, Giotto, etc. II Santo, the vast Ch. of S. Antonio {1296-1475), 300 ft. long and 123 ft. high, is crowded with paintings, bronzes (by Donatello), and monuments (Bembo, Contarini), and has large cloisters. Taine calls it an Italian-Gothic building, decorated with Byzantine cupolas, in which round domes, noble Greek towers, little columns surmounted by ogival arcades, a facade borrowed from Roman basilicas, and notions copied from Venetian palaces mingle the ideas of several centu- ries and countries. In front, see Donatello’s equestrian bronze statue of Gattamelata, a Venetian general; and on the S., Scuola del Santo , a hall with famous frescos by Titian. S. Giustina (1549), a stately ch., often de- stroyed and rebuilt, with marble floor and rich choir- stalls. Near by, see Botanic Garden (oldest in Europe) ; and huge old monastery (now a hospital.) The Arena Chapel (1303) is filled with very precious frescos by Giotto (visit at morning, 50 c.). Near by, see Eremitani Ch. (127 6-1306), with monuments, and a chapel frescoed by Mantegna; and Scuola del Carmine , a baptistery with Titian’s frescos. See Cathedral baptistery (1260), frescoed in 1380 ; 11th-century Palazzo della Ragione , with immense hall, largest known single roof, and 400 frescos ; Palazzo del Podesta and campanile ; and Civic Museum, many paintings. Quiet old Padua may well be the object of a day’s excursion from Venice. VENICE. 313 Arrive in Venice at night, if possible. The last stat. is Mestre, whence the rly. crosses the Lagoon on a vast viaduct. 2 M. long, on 222 arches (built 1841-45 ; cost $1,000,000). The passage by night seems a flight between sea and sky. Venice. Hotels. — Grand Hotel Royal Danieli , in Palazzo Dandolo; Europa, in Palazzo Giustiniani; Britannia ; Vittoria; Grand; San Marco; Italia; 8 . Gallo; Luna; Bellevue; Pension Suisse; D’ Angleterre ; Calcina ; Vapore. Restaurants. — Quadri ; Bauer ; San Marco. Cafes. — Florian; Svizzero; Specchi; Quadri; Giardino Reale , — all on or near Piazza of St. Mark. Gondolas (one rower) for 1-6 persons, 1 1. per trip, or per hr. (two rowers, double price) ; from steamers to Piazzetta, 40 c. Baggage 15 c. each piece. Hotels have their own gondolas at rly. stats, and steamers. To call a gondola, cry out Poppe. Regular legal tariff for rowers, which should be demanded in case of attempted extortion. Venice is built on 117 islands in the Lagoon, with 150 canals and 378 stone bridges, and has 133,000 inliab., in maritime pursuits (commerce is increasing), and manufactures of books, mirrors, jewelry, brocades, laces, and glass (one factory is now 1,200 years old). It is 7 M. around, divided by the Grand Canal, shaped like an S, 2 M. long and 150-180 ft. wide. The La- goon is a shallow lake, 25x9 M. in area, connected with the Adriatic by 4 deep channels through long and narrow sandbanks, faced with vast masonry bul- warks. The main channels (23 ft. deep) admit the largest vessels . The tide rises and falls about V enice. A small canal is called rio ; a street, calle or lista; a square, campo; small square, campiello; blind alley, 314 THE PIAZZA DI SAN MARCO. corte ; quay, fondamento , or riva . An adequate view of Venice requires 8-10 days; the cliief sights may be visited in 4 days. For sight-seeing, the city may be cut into 5 parts, — the region E. and S. of Grand Canal ; the Grand Canal; region N. and W. ; S. Gior- gio and Giudecca ; remoter islands. The Piazza di San Marco is a square, 576 ft. long and 185-270 ft. wide, paved with gray trachyte and white Istrian marble, surrounded by time-stained marble palaces and St. Mark’s Ch., and the picturesque centre of Venetian life, especially at evening, when the bands play, and the cafes are crowded by thousands. Flocks of fat pigeons fed here by the city at 2 p.m. daily for 700 years. The palaces enclosing 3 sides are the Procuratie Vecchie (N. side), built 15th century for home of the Procurators (who ranked next to the Doge), and now used for business ; Procuratie Nuove (1584), on S. side, now the Royal Palace ; and Nuova Fabbrica (W. side, built by Napoleon in 1810, and the home of Austrian viceroys until 1866), now connected with Eoyal Palace (handsome rooms ; fee, 11.). The palace arcades are occupied by cafes and bric-a-brac shops. The vast isolated Gothic Campanile (always open), 322 ft. high, dates from 911. Easy ascent on inclined plane, and from top marvellous view of city. Lagoon, Euganean Mts., Tyrolese peaks, and, across the Adriatic, the Istrian Alps. The Loggettd , at foot of Campanile, is a pretty vestibule, by Sansovino (1540), with bronze doors, statues, and reliefs'. The Clock- Tower (1496), across the Piazza, at entrance of Mer- ceria, Venice’s chief business street, has a huge bell, on which two bronze Vulcans strike the hours. The 3 lofty cedar flagstaffs between the towers used to bear the banners of Cyprus, Candia, and the Morea, king- doms tributary to Venice. VENICE. 315 The Cathedral of San Marco, on the E. side of the Piazza, is a magnificent piece of Venetian Byzantine architecture, built in 976-1071, in form of Greek cross, with 5 domes, 500 marble columns, and 46,000 sq. ft. of mosaics. Over the portal are 4 horses of gilded copper, of Roman workmanship, brought from Constantinople by Dandolo in 1204; carried to Paris, in 1797, as war trophies; and returned in 1815. Below and all around, and in the great entrance hall, and inside, are mosaics. 8 fine columns in vestibule; also, 3 red slabs com- memorating the reconciliation of Barbarossa and Pope Alexander III. (1177) ; and the porphyry sarcophagus of Daniele Manin, last President of Venice (1848). The interior — Gautier’s “a golden cavern, incrusted with precious stones, at once splendid and sombre, sparkling and mysterious ” — is 258 X 210 ft. in area, with slippery and uneven 11th-century marble pave- ment, colored- marble pulpits, marble statues (made in 1393) of Christ and the Apostles, Sansovino’s bronze statues of the Evangelists, and sumptuous chapels. See high altar , with canopy of verde-antico, over tomb of St. Mark the Apostle ; altar behind it, with 4 spiral alabaster columns, 2 of which belonged to Solomon’s Temple; Treasury , with Doge Morosini’s sword, St. Mark’s throne, a bit of St. John’s skull, piece of True Cross, etc. ; Sacristy (mosaics and inlaid work) and Crypt , with 64 columns ; Baptistery , with bronze font and tomb of Andrea Dandolo (1354) ; Zen Chapel , with magnificent tomb, altar, and statuary ; Sansovino’s bronze door, leading to Sacristy ; etc. The Piazzetta is a small square, running from S. Marco to the Lagoon, on which stand 2 granite columns, brought from Syria in 1120, and supporting statues of St. Theodore and the Winged Lion of St. Mark. On one side is the finely sculptured Libreria Vecchia , built 316 DOGES' PALACE. — ARSENAL. by Sansovino in 1582, and now part of Royal Palace. The great hall was frescoed by Veronese, for which Venice gave him a gold collar. Alongside is the old Mint, back of which is the Royal Garden. Opposite is the Doges’ Palace, with fapade 246 ft. long, and lafade of 234 ft. toward the sea. It was built in 800, and 5 times destroyed and re-erected. Most of present palace dates from 1350. The red and white marbles, Oriental designs, and Venetian- Gothic arches, combine very richly. 36 columns in lower arcade, and 71 above, in the rich Loggia , with quaint capitals. Ascend San- sovino’s Giants' Staircase , between colossal statues of Mars and Neptune, where the doges were crowned; and observe beautiful court, with statues, cisterns, and part of Silvio Pellico’s cell. Inside, see Sansovino’s Golden Staircase; Hall of Great Council , 165 X 84 ft., with portraits of 76 doges, 21 vast old historical pic- tures, and Tintoretto’s “ Paradise Sala del Scrutinio, 39 doges’ portraits, and many paintings ; Library , with famous MSS. ; Archaeological Museum , 5 rooms of ancient marble sculptures ; Sala della Russola ; Hall of Council of Ten; and many others, crowded with paintings, and rich in historical associations. Obliging guardians in all rooms, with plans, etc. The Molo, headquarters of gondoliers, is connected with the busy quay of the Riva dei Schiavoni by a bridge, whence good view of Bridge of Sighs, leading from the Palace to the Prison (1512-97), and made famous by Byron (Ruskin blames his “ ignorant senti- mentalism ”). You may visit the Pozzi, low dungeons where state-prisoners were deprived of light and (almost) of air ; and see where the political executions occurred, and bodies were given to the gondoliers. In the Arsenal (open 10-4), founded 1104, were built tne beets of the Crusaders. 16,000 men were once em- VENICE. 317 ployed here (now 2,000). At portal, 4 marble lions, brought from Greece in 1697, one of which is said to have stood on Marathon. See military museum, Bu - centaur , rare weapons, Henri IV. ’s armor, Attila’s helmet, etc. Take gondola and visit chs. E. and ]S T . of Grand Canal. People help yon ashore at landings, and expect a penny. Tlie great Italian-Gothic Ch. of Santi Gio- vanni e Paolo is the Venetian Pantheon, filled with imposing mausoleums of doges, statesmen, and warriors (see those of Mocenigo, Bragadino, the Valiers, Ven- dramin, and Giustiniani), and valuable old pictures and statues. In S. transept is a window of stained glass (1473), which is rare in Venice. The ch. was founded in 1240 ; and the funerals of the doges always took place here. On adjacent square, see ancient equestrian statue of Colleoni, a Venetian general. Close by is the richly carved Scuola di S. Marco (1485), once head- quarters of a charitable society, now part of vast hospi- tal. To S. Zaccaria (1457), a Romanesque ch., with paintings by Bellini, the doges used to go in solemn procession at beginning of Lent. S. Stefano , where Luther once said Mass, is 14th-century Gothic, with many statues and a beautiful cloister adjacent. See, in S. Maria del Orto (1481), splendid Tintorettos; S. Salvatore (1534), remarkable pictures; S. Maria dei Miracoli (1480), a Byzantine Renaissance ch., encased in marble, with rich vaulting ; G-li Scalzi (1649), mag- nificent ch. of Carmelites, overladen with decorations of the Decadence; S. Francesco della Vigna (1534), rich carvings and chapels of nobles ; S. Pietro di Castello, Venice’s cathedral from 1596 to 1807, with a fine cam- panile. A second trip may include the chs. S. and W. of the Grand Canal: S. Maria della Salute (1631), whose high dome is conspicuous in pictures of Venice, 318 FRARI. — GRAND CANAL. a sumptuous ch., with many statues and paintings, adjoining Patriarchal Seminary (with rich library and pictures) ; S. Sebastiano (1506), with tomb (see Latin epitaph) of Paul Veronese, and several of his paintings, and organ designed by him ; S. Pantaleone (1668), very ancient paintings; S. Giovanni Memosinario (1527 ), near Rialto; S. Giacometto (820), a venerable basilica. The vast Italian-Gothic Frari, or Franciscan ch. (1250), contains many famous works of art, costly modern monument of gray marble to Titian, tombs of Canova (designed by himself) and of several doges and generals. In monastery adjacent 300 rooms contain 11,000,000 documents, some dating from 883. S. Rocco (1490, rebuilt 1725) has fine paintings. Alongside is the splen- did Renaissance Scuola di S. Rocco (1415-1550), crowd- ed with pictures by Tintoretto (now sombre in tone), and with beautiful fapade, staircase, and great halls. This council -hall of charity is grouped with the Pisan Campo Santo and the Sistine Chapel, by art-lovers. The Grand Canal should be traversed by gondola, between its lines of famous palaces. On the 1., see Dogana (Custom-House), with statue of Fortuna on tower ; r., Palazzi Giustiniani (Hotel Europa) and Emo-Treves (with Canova’s Hector and Ajax; fee, 11.). On the 1., Patriarchal Seminary and S. Maria della Salute. Thence the canal passes between palaces Tiepolo (Hotel Barbesi), Contarini, Ferro, Fini-Wimp- ffen, Corner della Ca Grande, and Barbaro, on the r., and Dario- Angarani, Venier, Da Mula, and Zichy- Esterhazy, on the 1., and then between Count Cham- bord’s splendid Palazzo Cavalli (r.) and the vast Palazzo Manzoni-Angarini (1.), and under an iron bridge. Close to this, on L, is the Accademia delle Belle Arti (daily, 9-4 ; 50 c. ; buy catalogue), with 700 fine pictures, mainly by Venetian masters, Titian, Bellini, VENICE. 319 Giorgione, Palma, etc., with some modern works, and many drawings by Raphael and Angelo, in noble old monastic halls. This is one of the great sights of Venice. Beyond (1.), see Palazzi Contarini, Rezzonico , Giustiniani , Foscari (here the canal bends), Balbi , Pisani , etc., and on r., Palazzi Grassi, Moro-Lin , Con- tarini , and Mocenigo , the latter a triple palace, in which Byron wrote parts of Bon Juan , etc. (1818), and where now is an art-collection. Parther on (i\), see Palazzi Corner Spinelli, Cavallini, Grimani (Corte d’Appello), Farsetti (town-hall), 12th-century Loredan (once home of King of Cyprus), Dandolo (Gothic), Bembo, and Manin (now National Bank). Then, half-way through the canal, comes the famous Rialto, a bridge of one Istrian-marble arch (1588- 91), covered with shops, and running from the fruit- market to the fish-market. Below (1.), see Renaissance Palazzo cle Camerlenghi (1525), opposite ponderous Fondaco dJ Tedeschi , built 1506 (frescoed by Titian) for a German warehouse. Beyond Rialto, Pescheria (fish- market), on 1. ; Palazzi Michieli and Sagredo, on r. ; Palazzo Corner della Regina (now pawn-office), on site of Catharine Cornaro’s home (1,). Nearly opposite is the Cd d’Oro , Ruskin’s favorite, and a very noble palace. Tiie Palazzi Fontana and Grimani are beyond (r.) ; also, Palazzo Pesaro (1.), whose rich halls are open daily (11.). Nearly opposite each other, see Palazzo Vendramin Calerghi , the magnificent modern palace of Count de Chambord (open daily, 1 1.), and the Fondaco de 3 Turcki, once headquarters of Turkish merchants (here see Corner Mtiseum , open Wed. and Sat., 12-4, with MSS. and paintings about Venetian history). At the Palazzo Labia the Canareggio diverges to the r . It contains the Palazzo Manfrin, with large picture- gallery (open 10-3, ^ 1.). Beyond iron bridge and rly. 320 S. LAZZARO. — MURANO. stat., the Grand Canal enters the Lagoon, by the island of S. Chiara. Near the stat. are the famous Papado- poli and Botanical gardens. The theatres are the Fenice , seating 3,000 people, Goldoni, Rossini, Marion- ette , and Mcjdibran. See Tintoretto’s house, in the Campo dei Mori ; and Titian’s house, in the Sanciano. Just S. of the city are the islands of La Giudecca, with Palladio’s Redentore ch. (Franciscan) ; and S. Giorgio Maggiore , with a great Benedictine monastery, cruci- form ch. by Palladio, full of art-treasures, and cam- panile which gives superb view. Bather shabby Public Gardens , S. E. part of city. 2 M. S. E. is the island of S. Lazzaro, with great Armenian monastery. The islands were first colonized by fugitives from the mainland towns, ravaged by Attila. In 697 the first doge was chosen; and in 819 the present site of Venice became a capital. During the Crusades the republic grew rapidly, and conquered the coasts and islands of the Adriatic and Levant. For 300 years its power was vast, and Venice was Europe’s chief port. In 1508 its star began to wane. By 1718 it was quite decadent. In 1797 the French captured the city, which was afterwards annexed to Austria. In 1866 it became Italian. Excursions. — To the Lido Q hr. by gondola ; 60 c. to go and return ; steamer in 12 min., 30 c.), the beach on the Adriatic, with fine baths (La Favorita, 11) and summer-hotels. — To Malamocco, at S. end of Lido ; and Chioggia (steamer, l|-2h), 30 M. S., an ancient lagoon-town (27,000 inliab.). — To the Cemetery , on 2 islands to the N., with S. Michele ch. (1166). Funeral processions of gondolas very interesting. — To Murano (4,000 inhab.), 1^ M. N., with famous glass and mosaic factories, museum of old glass (40 c.), a magnificent Cathedral (1111), and Ch. of S. Pietro e Paolo (1509), FERRARA. 321 a noble and simple basilica. The Mnrano school of art preceded that of Venice. — To Torcello, 6 M. N. E. (2 hrs. by gondola), once rich and great, now poor and depopulated, but with a wonderful 7th-century Cathe- dral, famous for grand mosaics ; an octagonal Baptis- tery (1008); and S. Fosca , a strange 12th-century Byzantine eh., surrounded by arcades. Steamers, Tues., Thurs., and Sat. at midnight for Trieste. (7 hrs. ; fares, 9 fh, 6 fl. 60 ki\). Riy, Venice to Trieste, 7fhrs. (fares, 301. 55 c., 221. 10 c.). Ferrara, Bologna, Modena, and Parma. It is 101 M. (fares, 19 1. 15 c., 11 1. 5 c., 10 1.) from Venice through venerable Padua ; Rovigo (Coi'ona Ferrea and other hotels), with its vast palace and pic- ture-gallery ; and Ferrara, to Bologna. Ferrara (Europa; Stella d’Oro; Piccoli Parigi), in a miasmatic plain near the Po, has shrunk from 100,000 to 29,000 inhab., and has many wide empty streets and crumbling palaces. In the golden era of the House of Este (1300-1600) it was famous for art and letters, and Ariosto and Tasso lived at its court. See Lombardi c Cathedral (1135), imposing facade, many pictures, and handsome campanile (1550) ; S. Benedetto , with paint- ing of Paradise, in which Ariosto had his portrait in- troduced; S. Francesco , several domes; S. Maria in V ado, very ancient ; S. Paolo ; monuments to Ariosto and Savonarola ; houses of Ariosto and Guarini ; Uni- versity, with library of 100,000 vols. (MSS. of Pastor Fido, and parts of Gerusalemme and Orlando Furioso ) , museum, and tomb of Ariosto ; St. Anna’s Hospital , where Tasso was imprisoned 7 years in a cell, since visited by Byron, Lamartine, and Goethe; and Pa- lazzo de Biamanti (1193-1567), with the Civic Picture- 21 322 BOLOGNA. Gallery (open, 9-3 free), 8 rooms filled with ancient paintings. The Castle is a huge old square fortress, in the centre of Ferrara, with 4 towers, deep moats, and frescoed halls. It is the scene of Byron’s tragic Parisina. Bologna {Hotel Brun; del’ Europe; Pellegrino ; I)i Milano), capital of Romagna (105,000 inhab.) stands on a rich plain near the Apennines, and is surrounded by a brick wall, 3-4 M. around, with 12 gates. An Etruscan town ; conquered by Gauls ; allied with Carthage ; occupied by Rome, b.c. 190; then Greek, Lombard, Frank ; a free town under Charlemagne ; anti-imperial (Guelph) ; annexed to States of the Church in 1512, and to Italy in 1859. Its splendid Roman temples, Iheatres, and baths were swept away by the barbarians. It was the seat of the art-school of the Caracci ; and the home of Francia, Albano, Domenichino, Guido Reni, and Guercino (see houses of last two ; and of Rossini, the composer, a native of Bologna). S. Petronio (1390) is a vast Tuscan-Gothic cli. (half finished), 384 ft. long, 156 ft. wide, with many rich chapels, mural paintings, and sculptures. Fafade has many sculptures (made 1394-1525) of biblical sub- jects. Michael Angelo’s statue of Pope Julius II. was broken in pieces by the people (1511). Charles Y. was crowned Emperor here (1530). S. Domenico contains splendid tomb of St. Dominic, with sculptures by Michael Angelo ; and tombs of Guido Reni and Elisabetta Sirani. The University is in Palazzo Cellesi, with 1,400 students ; library of 150,000 vols. (open 9-3), once conducted by Mezzofanti; large museums of geology, antiquities, etc. It dates from 1119, and once had 10.000 students, and several female professors. The Academy of Fine Arts (open 9-3.30 ; 1 1.) is one of the most famous in Italy, and has Raphael’s St. Cecilia. BOLOGNA. 323 See, in S. Bartolommeo , horrible portrayal of martyr- dom of St. Bartholomew; S. Cecilia (1481), frescos by Erancia, and nunnery of St. Catherine Yigri ; S. Stefano, a group of 7 chs., with rare old Celestine clois- ter; S. Giovanni in Monte (a.d. 433), precious paintings; S. Vitale (a.d. 428), lately restored; and other very no- table and ancient chs. Also, Palazzo Publico (1290), ancient frescos, statues, chapel, and Bramante’s stair- case; Palazzo del Podesta (1201), where King Enzio, son of the Emperor, was imprisoned many years ; Oplo- teca , museum of weapons; leaning towers of Asinelli (1109; 272 ft. high; grand view of mts.) and Gari- senda (1110 ; mentioned in Dante’s Inferno) ; Archi- ginnasio (1572), town library (open 10-4), museum of antiquities, Gaivani’s anatomical lecture-room ; Palazzo BentivogliOj 16th century, on site of old Castle; Pa- lazzo Fava , and Collegio di Spagna ■ (1364), frescos by Caracci ; Loggia de* Mercanti (1294), venerable Gothic exchange ; Piazza Vittorio Fmanuele , and S. Domenico , fountain and statues ; Palazzo Pepoli (1344), vast and imposing ; Palazzo Z ampler i, with great picture-gallery (J 1.) ; and many other palaces. La Montagnola is a plateau and public garden, with views of Bologna and the Apennines. J M. S. is S. Michele in Bosco, orthopedic institute, formerly con- vent founded by St. Basil in 4th century, in whose ch. and cloisters Guido and the Caracci left noble paint- ings. 2^ M. S. W.is the Madonna di S. Luca,& pilgrim- age-cli. on strongly fortified hill, approached by arcade 1 M. long (635 arches; 100 years in building), and view- ing Apennines and Adriatic. It contains portrait of the Virgin, ascribed to St. Luke ; brought from Constanti- nople in 1160. On the way hither, visit La Certosa, a Carthusian monastery (1335), whose cloisters now contain very interesting Campo Santo (cemetery), with 324 MODENA. — PARMA. rich monuments, a statue-adorned rotunda, and a colos- sal lion commemorating the martyrs for liberty. If you intend going S. to Rome, and thence N. along the Mediterranean, it is well to make a side-trip from Bologna to Modena (23 M.) and Parma (54 M.). Modena (. Albergo Re ale ; 8. Marco), an ancient ducal capital (30,000 inhab.), was once an important Roman town, where Antony besieged Brutus (b.c. 43), on the Via Emilia, from Rome to the N. A stately city, surrounded with ramparts, on which are prome- nades. See Cathedral (1099-1184), with Arthurian sculptures (1100), rose- window, monumental tombs, and lofty colonnaded crypt ; renowned Campanile, called La Ghirlandina (1224-1319), 335 ft. high, en- cased in white marble, with wooden bucket taken from the Bolognese in 1325 (Tassoni, who wrote a poem about it, has a statue near by) ; S. Michele, in which Muratori is buried; Begarelli’s Pieta, which Michael Angelo praised ; Public Gardens ; and ramparts, with views of Apennines. The vast and magnificent Palazzo Reale (formerly Ducal Palace) has noble fa9ade on Piazza Reale, and a courtyard surrounded by colon- nades. See Library, 120,000 vols. and 3,000 MSS. (14th-century edition of Dante) ; cabinets of medals and gems, and archives ; large gallery of pictures (open 9-3), many of which are copies, a fact which the cata- logue omits to state. Parma ( Croce Bianca; Concordia; Italia) was found- ed by the Etruscans ; became Roman, b.c. 183 ; was Lombardic, a city of Charlemagne, of the Holy See, a Guelphic stronghold ; seat of the Parnese princes, 1545-1731 ; and capital of Duchy from 1815 until 1859, when it fell to Italy (45,000 inhab.). The Roman Via Emilia cuts through its centre ; and dreary, silent streets diverge on both sides. Parma is sur- REGGIO. — RAVENNA. 325 rounded by great walls, with 5 gates and a strong citadel. See Romanesque Cathedral (13 century), with notable crypt, rich monuments, and Correggio’s vast and world-renowned fresco of The Assumption; Baptistery (1196-1270), octagonal marble ch., with colonnades, quaint carvings, old frescos ; S. Giovanni Evangelista (1510), remarkable frescos by Correggio in dome and cloisters ; Madonna della Steccata (1521), fine frescos, and tombs of notables; Convent of S. Paolo (50 c.), with Correggio’s famous lunettes and Diana; Farnese Theatre (50c.); Stradone , promenade near citadel; and Public Garden , with an old Farnese chateau, richly frescoed. The Ducal Palace (Farnese), founded 1597, has museums of antiquities and pictures (open 9-4 ; 1 1.), with many famous works of Correggio and the Caracci, including Correggio’s Scala and Sco- della Madonnas and St. Jerome (II Giorno). The Library has 206,000 vols., and many Oriental MSS. Picturesque old road from Parma to La Spezia , on Gulf of Genoa. Reggio {Postaf between Parma and Modena, (50,000 inhab.), with notable walls, citadel, theatre, and cathedral, fine chs., and Ariosto’s birthplace, is 9 M. from Correggio, the great artist’s birthplace ; and 4 hrs. drive from ruins of Canossa, where Henry IY. of Germany performed penance before Pope Gregory Ravenna, Rimini, Ancona, Brindisi, and Taranto. From Bologna it is 52J M. (9|1., 61. 70 c., 4 k 30 c.) to Ravenna {Byron; Spada d’Oro ), a Thes- salian colony, once capital of Roman empire; captured by Odoacer and Theodoric; capital of the Gothic kings,. 493-552 ; thence for 200 years capital of Exarchs, or 326 RAVENNA. — DANTE’S TOMB. governors sent by Greek emperors ; taken by Lom- bards, and by Pepin of Prance, who gave it to the Pope; Venetian garrison, 1440-1509 ; and attached to States of the Church, 1509-1860. It is now a dreamy town of 12,000 inhab., very rich in early Christian art; and 5 M. from the Adriatic, of which it was once a chief port. Dante’s Tomb (1482), a dome-covered structure, with carvings, contains the ashes (discovered in 1865 in cli. of S. Francesco) of the poet, who died here, in exile and under excommunication, in 1321. Byron lived at Ravenna 2 years, and wrote several great poems. See site of the house where Dante lived; in Piazza Vittoria Emanuele , tall columns with statues, erected by the Venetians in 1494, and colon- nade of old basilica; Cathedral , on site of 4th-century ch., with 8th-century minaret-like campanile, 6th-cen- tury tombs, and silver crucifix, and paintings by Guido ; 4th-century octagonal Baptistery, with 5th-century font and mosaics (Baptism of Christ, etc.) ; Archieyisco- pal Palace , 5th-century chapel, 25,000 parchments in archives ; S. Apollinare , built in 500 by Theodoric for the Allans, and given by Justinian to the Catholics, with round campanile, 24 columns from Constantinople, and many 6th-century mosaics ; S. Vitale , consecrated in 547 by St. Maximian, copied from S. Sophia, at Constantinople, octagonal, with massive pillars, many beautiful and brilliant mosaics of Justinian’s time, Greek and Roman reliefs, and a dome of earthen vases bound together ; Mausoleum of Galla Placidia , built 440 by Empress Galla Placidia, small domed cruciform ch., with mosaics, and sarcophagi of Honorius and Constantius III. (the only Roman emperors whose tombs remain undisturbed) ; Academy of Fine Arts (75 c.), pictures by Ravennese masters, vases, bronzes ; Library (open 9-2) of 50,000 vols., and many rare RIMINI. — SAN MARINO. 327 MSS., in old Monastery of Classe, which has frescoed refectory; S. Niccolo (760), now deserted; S. Gio- vanni Bcangelista (444), near rly. stat., 24 antique col- umns, and frescos by Giotto ; remains of Palace of Theodoric ; and many other old chs. and great palaces. Outside the Porta Serrata is the tomb of Theodoric the Great (530), a ponderous structure (now a ch.) covered with a block of Istrian stone 36 ft. in diameter. S. Maria in Porta Fuori , M. out, is an open-roofed basilica (1096). S. Apollinare in Classe (a.d. 534), 3 M. out, is a magnificent basilica, with 24 cipolline columns, open roof, 6th-century mosaics, a noble altar, and portraits of 126 bishops of Ravenna, from St. Apollinaris (martyred a.d. 74) to the present. Beyond is La Pineta, the famous and venerable pine-forest, known to the Romans, praised by Byron, Boccaccio, Dante, etc., and covering many leagues. Highway along coast to Rimini, 31 M. The rly. S. E. from Bologna traverses Imola ; Castel Bolognese ; Faenza ( Corona ; Tre Mori), a walled town of 20,000 inhab., with great citadel and potteries (whence Faience ) ; Forli (17,000 inhab.), at foot of Apennines, with fine cathedral and castles; Cesena with handsome palaces and rare library ; Rimini {Nuow ; Aquila d’ Oro), a pretty city (33,000 inhab.) and sum- mer-resort on the Adriatic, with magnificent classical cathedral, dilapidated Malatesta Palace, Roman tri- umphal arch and bridge, and house of Erancesca da Rimini (25 1. for carriage thence, 15 M., to San Marino, capital of Republic of same name, the oldest govern- ment in Europe). The rly. follows the Adriatic to Pesaro, birthplace of Rossini, where there are fine chs., a rich library, and the old Palace of Dukes of Urbino, once a brilliant literary centre. Here Tasso wrote the Amadis. Diligence in 6 hrs. (21J M.) to 328 ANCONA. — PISTOJA. Urbino (Italia), a town of 16,000 inhab., surrounded by sombre mts. Raphael's birthplace is shown ; also, grand Renaissance Ducal Palace, and chs. rich in art. Ancona (La Pace ; Vittoria ) is built on an amphi- theatrical hillside facing the Adriatic, and has 46,000 inhab., with high-placed semi-Oriental cathedral (col- umns from the Temple of Venus), colossal statue of Cavour, handsome palaces, and (on the Mola ) tri- umphal arch reared by the Roman Senate, a.d. 112, to Trajan, and another in honor of Pope Clement XII. 11-14 hrs. distant by rly. (621. 80 c., 441., 311. 40 c.) is Brindisi {Hotel des Indes Orientates ; Europa , tolerable), once an important Roman naval station, and now the chief point of departure for the East Indies, on the mail-route from England to India. It is growing rapidly (17,000 inhab.), and is visited by steamers for Adriatic, Greek, Italian, and Levantine ports (3 days to Alexandria). Here the Appian Way ended ; and here Virgil died. 52f M. hence by rly. (10 1. 60 c., 6 1. 70 c., 4 1. 80 c.) to Otranto, a port on the heel of the Italian boot. Branch rly. from Bari to Taranto {Roma ; Europa ), with richly decorated Cathedral and strong castle. Ancona to Rome by rly., 183 M. (351., 241. 70 c.). Eew tourists will go S. of Ravenna on this coast. Bologna to Florence, in 82 M. (5-6 hrs. ; fares, 141. 20 q., 101. 45 c., -71. 55 c.), by remarkably pictu- resque rly. across the Apennines, with many very costly bridges, tunnels, galleries, and viaducts, and down to the rich Tuscan plains (superb views) . Fistoj a _( Globo ; Rossini) is an ancient town of 13,000 inhab., at foot of Apennines, rich in 13th and 14th-century sculptures, and a favorite summer-resort for Florentines. Pistols are named from this town. Catiline was defeated and killed near by. See, in 12th-century Cathedral, monu- FLORENCE. 329 ments, choir-stalls, and silver altar ; Campanile , once a fortified tower; Italian-Gothic Baptistery , of black and white marble; S. Andrea , splendid pulpit (1298-1301) and carved architrave; several other rich chs. and massive old palaces ; and suburban Villa Puccini, in beautiful gardens. Pistoja to Pisa , 40| M. (6 1. 60 c., 5 1. 35 c., 4^-1.) ; to Florence , 21J M. ; 45 min. Florence. Hotels. — Grand Hotel Royal; Be la Paix; Bela Vi lie Italia ; New York; Grande Bretagne; Arno; Washington; Be Russie ; Bonciani; Vittoria; Corona d’ Italia ; Anglo-American ; Pension de Londres ; Bu Nord; Helvetia; Cavour; Minerva ; Cittd di Milano. Fares from London to Florence direct, £9 os. 6d., £6 13s. 3d. Omnibus fares to hotels, 1-1-J 1. ; car- riages, 11.; trunks, 50 c. ; valises, 25 c. Theatres. — Nazionale ; Bella Pergola; Niccolini ; Politeama, fine summer-theatre. Consulates. — American , Via Tornabuoni, Xo. 10 ; British, Via Tornabuoni, Xo 14. Florentia was founded by the Romans, before Christ ; ravaged by the barbarians : rose to great commercial importance by 1100; suffered from centuries of civil conflicts and foreign wars ; ruled by the Medici family, 1434-1737 ; by dukes of the house of Lorraine, 1737 -1860 ; and was capital of Italy, 1864-70. Since 1870 it has fallen into decay and financial embarrassment, but is a favorite winter-resort, by reason of its vast art-treasures, natural beauty, and cheapness of living. It stands on a narrow plain, partly surrounded by the Apennines and their foot-hills, and cut in two bv the river Amo, which is nearly dry in summer. There are 167.000 inhab. 330 PALAZZO VECCHIO. — UFFIZI GALLERY. The Piazza della Signoria, the central square, forum of the Republic, and present business-centre, is adorned by bronze equestrian statue of Cosmo, marble lion, and Neptune Fountain, erected in 1564-75, on site of Savonarola’s martyrdom. Here fronts the Palazzo Vecchio (built 1298), once capitol of Re- public and palace of Cosmo I., and now town-hall, — a tall, massive, and formidable fortress-palace. Enter (by Bandinelli’s statues of Hercules and Cacus) the court- yard, with Michelozzi’s dainty arabesques, Yasari’s fountain, Yerocchio’s statue of a boy. The Hall of the Great Council was built in 1495, at Savonarola’s order. Italian Parliament sat here, 1865-70. Yasari and oth- ers made many of the frescos ; and two very famous cartoons were drawn by Leonardo and Angelo, for this hall. See Hall of the Two Hundred, used by town- council ; Hall of the Lilies, with rich marble work ; and Medici apartments. Campanile built by Arnolfo del Cambio, 308 ft. high (450 steps), gives a grand view. Its bell was the rallying-sound in the civil wars. In front is the Loggia dei Lanzi, a very graceful arcade built in 1376 for Cosmo’s guards of lancers; later, a tribune whence the people were harangued ; and now containing celebrated statues, — Benvenuto Cellini’s “Perseus,” Donatello’s “Judith,” Giovanni da Bo- logna’s “Hercules,” etc. Alongside Palazzo Yecchio, see Palazzo JJguccione , planned by Raphael ; opposite which is new Palazzo Fenzi , in Early Florentine style. Between Yecchio and Loggia, enter Portico degli Uffizi, built by Yasari, 1560-74, with marble statues of 24 famous Tuscans. On r., entrances to Mint, now Post-Office ; on 1., to the vrorld-renowned Uffizi Gallery (open 9-3, Mon. 12-3, 1 1. ; festivals, 10-3, free ; catalogues, 3J 1.), the vast art-collections made by the Medici and Lorraine dynasties. See JSiobe FLORENCE. 331 Kail , antique#statues of Niobe and her children ; hall of portraits of painters, made by themselves ; Tribuna,, with Venus de Medici, Wrestlers, Apollino, and many celebrated paintings ; cabinets of gems, cameos, bronzes,, and vases ; vast collections of Flemish, German, Dutch, and Venetian pictures ; and masterpieces of Raphael, Titian, Correggio, etc. The National Library (open 9-5) has 300,000 vols., .8,000 MSS., rare books, and the great Tuscan archives. The grand and massive Pitti Palace, S. of the Arno, was begun in 1440, on Brunelleschi’s plans, for the merchant Pitti, whose heirs sold it in 1559 to the Medici, who made it their home, and had Vasari join it to the Palazzo Vecchio by a corridor 1,800 ft. long (now filled with rare drawings by Italian masters). The Pitti is occasionally occupied by the king. Its front (121 ft. high) is of enormous blocks of stone, 20-25 ft. long. On the second floor is a gallery (open 9-3, Mon. 12-3, 11.) of 500 fine old pictures, in 13 magnificent saloons* richly frescoed, and adorned with tables and cabinets of marble, alabaster, malachite, and mosaic. Here are some of the best works of Raphael, Titian, etc. The Boboli Garden (open Thurs. and Sun., 12-6), back of the palace, was laid out in 1500, and its hill- terraces command noble views of Florence (especially from Belvedere). See amphitheatre, grotto, obelisk, Neptune’s statue (by Giovanni da Bologna), etc. Near the Pitti is the extensive and valuable Museum of Physics , with Galileo’s first telescopes, aud one of his fingers ; also rare botanical collections. The Academy of Fine Arts (open 9-3, 11.; Suns, and festivals free) contains schools of design, painting, architecture, music, mechanism, chemistry, etc., and a noble collection of old religious pictures showing the development of Tuscan art. The lower 332 NATIONAL MUSEUM. —CATHEDRAL. halls contain modern paintings. The court is decorated with reliefs by Luca della Robbia. In second court is Michael Angelo’s celebrated statue of David. Floren- tine Mosaic-factory in same building (museum open daily). Close by, in cloisters of the Scatzo, fine frescos by Andrea del Sarto ; also Medicean Casino , built 1570. In same square is Ch. of S. Marco (1290), with many pictures and statues, and tombs of Politian and Pico della Mirandola. Next door is the famous old Domini- -can Monastery of S. Marco , now occupied by a museum (open 10-4, 1 1. ; free Sun. ; guide-book, 1^ 1.) of choice works of old masters, great number of frescos by Fra .Angelico, etc., in cloisters, cells, and refectory. See cell of Savonarola. Fra Angelico, Fra Bartolommeo, St. Antoninus, ar Politian were monks here. The dccademia della Crasca , founded in 1582 to preserve •the purity of the Italian language, is established here. The National Museum (open 10-4, 1 1. ; Sun. free) has a hall of mediaeval bronzes, with Giovanni da Bologna’s celebrated “ Mercury,” Donatello’s “David,” etc. ; the great fresco of “ The Last Supper,” attributed to Raphael ; a collection of weapons ; statuary by Angelo, Bandinelli, etc.; ancient furniture ; faience; celebrated frescos by Giotto, in old chapel ; rich terra- cottas; stained glass, etc. It is in the Palazzo del .. Podestd , or II Bargello, built 1256 for the Florentine chief magistrate ; fortified 1317 ; and often assailed by the populace. The curfew was sounded from the cam- panile. The prisons and torture-rooms were here. See picturesque court. The Cathedral of St a. Maria del Fiore (so called from the lily in the arms of Florence), one of the grand- est Gothic chs. of Europe, was built 1294-1474, by Arnolfo, Giotto, Gaddi, and Orcagna, on site of older ‘Ch. of S. Reparata, and is 556^ ft. long, and 342 ft. FLORENCE. 333 wide (at transepts), with walls of beautiful white and colored marbles. The nave is 154 ft. high. Beautiful f )orch on Via Ricasoli, with pillars resting on backs of ions • and over the door statues by Donatello and Jacopo della Quercia. The interior is impressive, but simple, with huge pillars flanking th6 lofty nave, rich marble-mosaic pavement, and stained windows. See Jacopo della Quercia’s “Madonna,” Uccello’s frescos, Gaddi’s mosaics, Angelo’s “ Entombment ; ” bronze doors, by Luca della Robbia; statues, portraits, and tombs of many celebrated Florentines. It is a perfect treasure-house of art. The stained glass was designed by Ghiberti and Donatello, and made at Lubeck. The Dome, 352 ft. high, made by Brunelleschi (1421-36) is higher than that of St. Peter’s, and may be ascended (463 steps ; 57 more to the Cross ; fee, 1 1.). Interest- ing details, and grand view. King Victor Emmanuel laid foundations of new main fapade in 1860. In this ch. Giuliano de’ Medici fell under the daggers of the Pazzi ; the Greek Emperor offered to become Catholic ; and Frederick II. of Germany knighted many of his fierce captains. See silver altar and sculptures, in Opera del Duomo. The Italian-Gothic Campanile, the most marvellous bell-tower in the world, is Giotto’s noblest work (1334-36). It is 292 ft. high, in 4 stories, of which the uppermost is superbly decorated, with delicate tracery around windows, and many statues and reliefs by Giotto, Donatello, and other masters. The tower is built of variegated marbles. Fee to ascend, 1 1. Noble view of Florence and Apennines (414 steps). Along- side is the famous ch. of the Misericordia, whose cowled brethren are often seen upon the streets* and opposite is the Canonry , with statues of Arnolfo and Brunelleschi. See Sasso di Dante , near by, a stone on which Dante used to sit 334 BAPTISTERY. The Baptistery of S. Giovanni (6th century; , oppo- site the Cathedral, is an octagonal marble ch., 94 ft. in diameter, with dome. Until 1128 it was used as a cathedral. Here are Ghiberti's celebrated bronze doors (1408-52), with 10 Old-Testament scenes, and 28 from life of Christ and early Church history. Michael Angelo declared these worthy to be the gates of Paradise (see also George Eliot’s Romola). At the sides are two porphyry columns, given by Pisa in 1200. Bronze door on S., scenes from life of St. John, made by Andrea Pisano (1408-30). Inside are many statues, dim old mosaics, Oriental-granite col- umns, and tomb of Pope John XXIII. SS. Annun- ziata (1250) contains Andrea del Sarto’s best works, sumptuous chapels, and cloisters. S. Croce, built (1294-1442) by Arnolfo and Yasari, is an imposing cruciform basilica, with modern fa9ade of black and white marbles (1863), high tower, and rich cloisters and refectory (many paintings). In this vast old Floren- tine Pantheon are the tombs of Galileo, Michael Angelo, Macchiavelli, Raphael Morghen, Lanzi, Cherubini, Ugo Foscolo, and other great men ; and monuments to Dante and Alfieri. Bare treasures of art, including many frescos by Giotto. In front, see noble modern statue of Dante. S. Lorenzo, consecrated by St. Ambrose in 393, and rebuilt by the Medici in 1425, from Brunelleschi’s and Michael Angelo’s plans, is a sumptuous Romanesque ch., resting on 14 tall Corinth- ian columns, and containing tomb of Cosmo, “Father of his People ; ” and sculptures by Donatello, Brunelleschi, Michael Angelo, and Thorwaldsen. In new Sacristy are Angelo’s Twilight, Dawn, Day, and Night, over the tombs of the Medici. The Chapel of the Princes (1604), erected by the Medici at a cost of $4,400,000, for their sepulchres, is a dome-covered octagon, lined FLORENCE. 335 with precious marbles, mosaics, and frescos. Adjacent, see Laurentian Library (open 9-3 ; -|-1 L), founded 1444 by Cosmo, in building planned by Michael Angelo. Priceless old vols. and 8,000 MSS., many ot them rare, by Dante, Alfieri, Petrarch, Boccaccio, and of Virgil, iEschylus, etc. S. Maria Novella (1278-1371) is a beautiful ch. of black and white marbles, with arcades, and attractive interior, on slender pillars. See Ghirlandajo’s famous frescos, in choir ; Brunelleschi’s crucifix, in Gondi Chapel ; Cimabue’s Madonna, borne in triumph by the Plorentines from the studio to the ch. ; Orcagna’s frescos, in Strozzi Chapel, and in Green Cloister; vast Giottesque frescos, in Spanish Chapel ; and Great Cloisters, the largest in Plorence. See, also, in S. Maria Maddalena , fresco by Perugino ; La Badia , with ancient tombs and tall tower ; Or San Michele , built in 1284 by Arnolfo for a corn-hall, and made a Gothic ch. in 1337-55, with many statues by the great masters, and altar by Orcagna (1359) ; S. Trinitd (1250) ; Carmine (1422), with cloisters, and Masaccio’s famous frescos (studied by Perugino, Raphael, An- gelo, and Leonardo). See, also, Marucellian library, 70,000 vols. ; Riccardian library, containing oldest MS. in existence (Pliny) ; houses of Benvenuto Cel- lini, Dante, Ghiberti, Bianca Capello, Amerigo Ves- pucci, Galileo, Macchiavelli, Guicciardini, Andrea del Sarto; the great hospitals, decorated by the masters (especially Poundling Hospital, S. Maria Nuova) ; busy Mercato Nuovo ; and interesting great Egyptian and Etruscan Museum (open 9-3 ; 11.). in refectory of old Convent of S. Onofrio, vases, reliefs, implements, etc., and fresco (1505) of “Last Supper;” and house of Michael Angelo (Mon. and Thurs., 9-3), with great museum of works and relics of Angelo. There are scores of huge old palaces, mainly by 336 LUNG T ARNO* illustrious architects. Among them, see Ridolfi (Hu- cellai), which was sacked by the people in 1527 ; Altoviti t with marble portraits of famous Florentines ; Corsini , very elegant, with large picture-gallery (open Tues., Fri., and Sat.) ; Strozzi , 3 vast fa 9 ades> a very perfect and imposing palace, with picture-gallery (open) ; Ric- cardi (1434), original and stately home of the Medici (see chapel and courts) ; Fontebuoni , where Alfieri died; Spini, now municipal offices; Manelli (1565); Panciatichi , with picture-gallery ; and Torrigiano , with large gallery (open daily) and famous gardens. The Arno is bordered by the handsome old quays of the Lung’ Arno, on both sides, and crossed by the picturesque Ponte Vecchio (1362), covered with shops; elegant Ponte S. Trinita, built 1252 ; Ponte alia Car- raja (1218), often restored; Ponte alle Grazie (1235) ; and 2 suspension-bridges. The Via dei Calsajuoli, from cathedral to Uffizi, and Via Tornabuoni are the busiest streets. There are many picturesque squares, adorned with statues and fountains. Excursions. — The Cascine, a narrow park extend- ing 2 M. along the Arno, just W. of Florence, has favorite rambles and drives (military music, zoological garden, etc.). — Along the Viale dei Colle to Piazza Michael Angelo, a beautiful esplanade (dedicated 1875), with monument and bronze copies of Angelo’s works. — S. Miniato is a beautiful ch. on far- viewing hill on E., in Pisan-Florentine architecture (1013), with rich fa 9 ade, mosaics, 14 great marble columns, open roof, notable crypt, niello mosaic pavement (1207), and finely frescoed sacristy. Charming view of Florence. — Bello Sguardo, just S. W. of Florence, commands a famous view over city and mts. — The Poggio Im- periale, once a ducal villa, now a nuns’ school, is out- side and above the Porta Rom ana, reached by fine avenue of trees. Near by is the tower which was FIESOLE. — VALLOMBROSA. 337 Galileo’s observatory ; also, villa where he lived,. 1631-42, and was visited by Milton. In adjacent villa, Guicciardini wrote the history of Italy. — La Certosa, 3 M. from Porta Romana, is a vast and fortress-like Carthusian monastery, built 1341, from Orcagna’s plans. Pine paintings, monuments, etc., in eh., cloisters, and chapter-house (1 L). — Monte Oli- veto, 1 M. from Porta S. Frediano, is a monastery (1334), whence grand views. — Villa San Donato (Demidotf), open Mon. and Pri. (5 1.). — Villa Ca- reggi, 2-3 M. N., once seat of Medici and Platonic Academy. Cosmo and Lorenzo died here. — Poggio a Cajano , royal villa, 12 M. N. W. ; and Villa della Petraia , another royal residence. — Pratolino, former •forest-palace of Medici. Fiesole, 3 M. N. of Plorence, beyond convent where Fra Angelico dwelt, was an Etruscan city, and retains parts of vast walls. See also Cathedral (1028), and old palaces adjacent; Franciscan convent, on site of Acropolis; ancient theatre (50c.); splendid abbey;, and fascinating views of Val d’ Arno. Vallombrosa, 18 M. distant, among the Apennines, may be visited in a day. Vast abbey, founded 1050, now a school of forestry. 1 hr.’s climb hence to top of P ratomagno , 5,323 ft. high, with noble view to Medi- terranean. Excursion also to very picturesque Casen- tino region, and grand old abbeys of Camaldoli and Alvernia. Arezzo, Orvieto, Perugia, Poligno, Siena* From Florence we would recommend you to go to Rome by the shortest route, through Arezzo, Orvieto, and Orte (195 a M. ; fares, 33 1. 85 c., 23 1. 30 c., 1641.; by express -trains, 381. 5 c., 261.40 c.). Fares by express from Florence ta Arezzo, 541 M., 10 1. 10 c., 7 I 5 c. 22 338 AREZZO. — PERUGIA. Beautiful xnt. scenery on the long ascent to Arezzo (Vittoria; La Stella; Inghilterra),&x\ ancient Etruscan city which became an ally of Borne, b.c. 310. Here Maecenas, Vasari, Petrarch, and other famous men were born. It now has 38,000 inhab. See Italian- Gothic Cathedral (1177), with many pictures, tombs, etc. S. Maria della Piece, remarkable facade ; S. Fran- cesco , interesting frescos ; Museum , majolicas, bronzes, antiques ; Abbey of S. Flora ; old palaces, chs., and statues. Cortona ( Stella ), another Etruscan town, lias great Cathedral , Museum , vast Etruscan walls, .and fortress (superb view). The rly. runs near Lake Thrasyrngne and the lovely Val di Chiana. Orvieto ( Belle Arti ; Aquila Bianca : omnibus from stat., 1 1.) stands on a lofty volcanic rock ; and has a magnificent Cathedral (1290-1600) of black and white marble, with nave 111 ft. high, crowded with mosaics, carvings, shrines, and frescos by Luca Signorelli and Era An- gelico. The route hence to Borne leads by Monte Botondo and Mentana , where Garibaldi was defeated in 1867. A longer rly. route to Borne leads from Cortona .-along Lake Thrasymene (30 X 8 M. in area ; near by, Hannibal annihilated the Boman army, b.c. 217), to Perugia ( Grand Hotel ; Grande Bretagne ; Belle Arti), once Etruscan, now capital of Umbria (19,000 Inhab.), with 103 chs. and 50 monasteries. See great 15th-century Cathedral ; S. Pietro dd Casinense, 18 /antique columns, choir-stalls designed by Baphael ; S. Severo , with Baphael’s first fresco ; S. Domenico , tomb of Pope Benedict XI. ; University (50 c.), founded 1320, with large gallery of Umbrian pictures, antiqui- ties, etc. ; Arch of Augustus , an ancient city -gate ; Perugino’s house ; Etruscan cemetery ; and collections in several palaces. Superb views over Tiber valley and SIENA. 339 Apennines. Assisi, perched on a high hill, was the birthplace of St. Francis* and has vast Franciscan mon- astery (fee to monk, 11.), and its wonderful Gothic double cli., with frescos by Giotto and Cimabue, and other treasures. Foligno (23,000 inhab.) has 6 inter- esting clis. Within 50 years it has suffered 1 severe earthquakes. The rly. thence to Home passes Trevi, Spoleto, and Tend (beautiful falls here). A still longer route is from Florence to Siena (59 M. ; fares, 101.85 c., 7\ 1., 5 1.30 c.), passing Certaldo , where Boccaccio died ; and Poggibonsi (whence carnages to San Gimignano , with enormous walls, interesting clis., and many works of art. Siena ( Hotel de Sienne; Aquila Neva) a city of 23,000 (once 200,000) inhab., celebrated for ancient school of devotional art, for pretty women, healthy climate, and purity of language. Sieges and wars innumerable have distressed it. See vast and superb 13th-century Cathe- dral , of red, white, and black marbles, abounding in sculptures and paintings, rose windows, choir-stalls, etc. ; Library (1195), frescos by Pinturicchio and Ra- phael ; notable Campanile , Baptistery , and Pellegrinajo hospital ; S. Domenico , S. Francesco , S. Bernardino , and other chs. ; Oratory of St. Catherine of Siena ; Institute of Fine Arts (open 9-3), with valuable Sienese pictures, including Sodoma’s “ Descent from the Cross ; ” Pa- lazzo Publico (1293-1309), with many stately and richly furnished halls ; Campanile , which Leonardo da Yinci admired ; handsome Palazzo del Governo (1169), with 30,000 parchments, some dating from 811 ; Loggia di S. Paolo (1117) ; other palaces of noble period of archn tecture ; the Fonte Gaja and Fonte Branda ; La Lizza , the promenade; the University. Excursions to L’Os- seroanza monastery and Belcaro castle. 340 ROME. Rome. Hotels. — Del Quirinale ; De V Europe ; De Lon - dres; Minerva; De Russie; D’ Angleterre ; Di Roma; Bristol; Molaro; Anglo- Americano; New York; D’Al- lemagne; De la Ville ; Continental ; De Paris ; Hotel du Sud; Milan; Centrale; Italia . The first 9 are first- class. The others are very good but less expensive. Permits to visit Vatican and many villas and palaces obtained from hotel-proprietor or guide, or from appointed officials. Get Baedeker’s Central Italy , compact and prac- tical, with good maps. Murray’s Rome is very good reading, but bulky. Hachette’s Rome et ses Environs is good. Rly., Paris to Rome, 42 hrs. (fares, 212 fr., 179 fr. 60 c.). Old travellers advise that mornings at Rome be given to the chs. and palaces, and afternoons to the classic ruins and fragments of the Imperial city. A visit to Rome is the most interesting experience in the course of a European tour. No adequate idea of the city can be gained in less than 10-12 days. If the traveller can give it but 7-8 days, he should devote the time equally between the classic remains and the great chs. and modern institu- tions. American Ch. of St. Raul , on Via Nazionale. Tradition ascribes the founding of Rome to Romulus and Remus, b.c. 753. It is probably much older. King Tarquin was expelled, B.c. 509 ; the republic lasted 480 years, con- quering the Etruscans, Samnites, Gauls, Lucanians, etc. B.c. 390 the Gauls took Rome. Then came wars with Carthage (b.c. 264-241, 219-202, and 149-146) ; conquest of Cor- sica (238), Sicily (241), Spain (b.c. 197-178), Greece (b.c. 214-205, 200-197, 172-168, and 146), Pergamus (129), Provence (118), and Gaul (58-50). B.c. 29, Augustus Caesar became emperor. 47 legions garrisoned the vast em- pire. Constantine (324-337 /.d.) made Christianity the State religion, but removed the capital of the empire to Con- stantinople. Rome was sacked by Alaric in 410, then by ROME. 341 $enseric, and finally by Odoacer (476), who annihilated the Roman empire. In 546 and 549 the Goth Totila took the city. Leo the Great (440-461) and Gregory the Great (590- 604) founded the papal power, which was solidified by Pepin (755) and Charlemagne (800). Rome, “ the Eternal City,” the capital of Italy (300,000 inhab.), is on the river Tiber, 15| M. from its mouth, and near the centre of the broad and desolate Campagna. The Tiber runs for 3 M. through Rome, with the low Vatican and Janieulan Hills on the r., and on the 1. the circle of the Pincian, Quirinal, Viminal, Esquiline, Cselian, and Aventine Hills, surrounding the Palatine and Capitoline Hills (the last 7 are the famous “Seven Hills”). The space within the walls is about the same as in Aurelian’s time, but f of it is in gardens and ruins. As. in the Augustan age, it is divided into 14 Rioni , or wards. The ecclesiastical population is 7,500. Many of the streets are narrow and unattractive ; but the Corso, Via Babuino, Ripetta, and a few others are filled with splendid shops and animated crowds. There are 7 bridges over the Tiber. The river often overflows its banks, and makes lakes of the lower squares. The walls of Rome are of brick, 14 M. around, and 55 ft. high, and about 1600 years old, though restored by Theodoric, Belisarius, etc. There are 12 gates now open, and several closed. On N. is Porta del Popolo , built in 1561 by Vignola; next is Pinciana , closed in 1808 ; then Salara (closed), flanked by towers, where Alaric entered Rome ; Pia , built from Angelo’s designs in 1564, and breached by Italian batteries in 1870; Nomentana , closed since 1564 ; Tiburtina , long ago sealed up ; S. Lorenzo , built by Honorius, over the. Tivoli road ; the rly. gate ; Porta Maggiore , part of Claudian Aqueduct (a.d. 52), made a gate by Aurelian, 342 AQUEDUCTS. — PIAZZA DEL POPOLO. and a fortress by tbe Colonnas, and commanding the Palestrina road; S. Giovanni , built in 1574, over Al- bano road ; Asinaria (now closed), where Belisarius marched into Home ; Metronia , closed ; Latina (closed 1808), over Via Latina , to Capua ; S. Sebastiano, with towers and pinnacles, over Appian Way ; S. Paolo , at foot of Aventine, over road to Ostia. On W. bank of Tiber, Porta Portese, close to river; S. Pancrazio, on Janiculan Hill, stormed by French troops in 1849, and ruined by their artillery ; Cavalleggieri , close to St. Peter’s, where the army of the Constable de Bourbon entered in 1527, and the French were repulsed in 1849 ; Fabbrica (closed) ; Angelica , over route to Monte Mario ; and Castello (closed). The Aqueducts give a noble idea of Boman archi- tecture and bold conception, wdtli their vast arcades running for leagues over the Campagna. The Aqua Marcia , built b.c. 146 and restored in 1869, brings the purest of water from the Sabine mts.. 56 M. away. The Aqua Claudia (a.d. 50) leads from near Subiaco, 58JM. The Aqua Trajana leads from Bracciano, 35 M. The Aqua Virgo , built by Agrippa, for his baths, leads from a spring 14 M. out on the Campagna, and breaks out in the Fountain of Trevi. The Aqua Felice (built by Sixtus V., in 1585) leads from the Alban mts., 21 M. Borne is thus copiously supplied. The Piazza del Popolo, the focus at N. gate of Borne to which the great streets Babuino, Corso, and Bipetta converge, is adorned with an Egyptian obelisk (set up here in 1589), fountains, and statues. S. Maria del Popolo (1099), on haunted burial-place of Nero, has many prelates’ tombs, rich paintings, and a beau- tiful chapel by Bapliael. 2 other high-domed chs. front on the Piazza. Hence ascend drives to the fa- vorite Boman park and promenade, on the Pincian Hill ROME. 343 (once Lucullus’s gardens), with statues and busts, trees and fountains, and grand views. The Villa Medici (1540) is now seat of French art-academy and collec- tions (open daily, except Sat.). The Villa Borghese, outside Porta del Popolo, is in lovely and popular gar- dens (open Tues., Thurs., Sat., and Sun. afternoons), with oak-groves, lawns, statues, Raphael’s villa, and a casino with 20 rooms devoted to sculptures (including Canova’s Pauline Bonaparte) and paintings. The Villa Albani (open Tues., 11 till dark) is outside Salarian Gate, with hundreds of ancient sculptures, and a few paintings, and queer Italian gardens, with ro- mantic distant views. The Piazza di Spagna is surrounded by the hotels and shops of the foreign quarter, and contains Bernini’s Barcaccia fountain ; Pius IX/s Column of the Immacu- late Conception (with 5 statues) ; the Palace, of , Spain (Spanish embassy) ; and the College of Propaganda Fide (1662). The famous SpanishStairqase ascends hence to SS. Trinita de’ Monti (1495), a stately ch. with many paintings and charming music (by nuns). Obelisk on square in front. Near by is Casa Bartholdy (1 1.), with room richly frescoed by Overbeck, Cornelius, and Veit (story of Joseph). In S. Andrea della Valle , Zoega, Schadow, and Angelica Kauffman are buried. Beyond is ancient and very large Fountain of Trevi, with statues and great basin. The Corso is over 1 M. long, on site of Via Fla- minia , from near Capitol to N. gate of Rome, and is the chief street, with many shops and cafes, and busy crowds. Leaving Piazza del Popolo, it passes Palazzo Rondanini , with unfinished Pieta by Michael Angelo ; Goethe’s house (No. 20) ; great Hospital of Incura- bles (founded 1338); Palazzo Minuzzi ; S. Carlo, the Lombard national ch. ; Palazzo Ruspoli (1586) ; S . 344 PALACES ON THE CORSO. Lorenzo m Lucina (in Piazza to r.), with tomb of N. Poussin; Palazzo Piano ; Palazzo Teodoli ; S. Sil - toestro in Capite (built 757-67), and English Ch. (1874) in side-street; old Palace of Knights of Malta ; Palazzo T or Ionia ; and Palazzo Chigi (1526), with val uable art-collections and library. Here opens the handsome Piazza Colonna, with the Column of Mar- cus Aurelius , 95 ft. high, adorned with spiral reliefs of Aurelius’s wars on the Danube. On one side see palace with fine Ionic columns from Etruscan Veii; beyond which is Piazza di Monte Cittorio , with Italian Parliament House, in palace built by Bernini. In front, note obelisk, brought by Augustus from Egypt. Other two sides of Piazza Colonna are formed by Pa- lazzi Piombino and Eerajuoli. Earther down Corso, on little square, is very handsome Palazzo Sciarra- Colonna, with a fine picture-gallery. Earther on, opposite Palazzo Simonetti, see ch. of S. Marcello (a.d. 499), with ancient paintings and Consalvi’s tomb. Next comes (on r.) vast and splendid Palazzo Doria (open Tues. and Eri. ; ^ 1.), with large arcaded courtyard, and gallery of 800 paintings (catalogues in each room), including works of Raphael, Claude, Titian, Poussin, etc. Opposite is Palazzo Salviati , back of which is Colonna Palace. Beyond the Palazzo Bonaparte (in which died the mother of Napoleon I.) is the Piazza di Venezia , at end of Corso, on which fronts the imposing castellated Palazzo di Venezia (1455), which Pius IV. gave to Venice (now Austrian embassy). Near by, see Palazzo Torlonia , famous for its works of art; S. Marco (a.d. 325 ; rebuilt in 833), with mosaics and paintings ; and popular and gorgeous Jesuit Ch.of Gesu (1568-77), lined with costly marble, with columns of lapis lazuli and gilded bronze, many statues, and tomb of St. Ignatius Loyola. Adjacent is the former Jesuit monastery, with Loyola’s cell, etc. ROME. d!5 The Tomb of- Augustus (J L), where Augustus, Mar- cellus (see Virgil), and other emperors and princes were buried, afterwards became a fortress of the Colonnas, and a ring for bull-fights, and is now but partly preserved, near the Ripetta, or harbor for barges and steamers. The Palazzo Borghese (1590) is a huge and splendid palace, with arcaded courts, antique sculptures, and a very large picture-gallery (Mon., Wed., and Fri., 10-3 ; catalogues in each room), in which see Domenichino’s Sibyl and Diana, Titian’s Sacred and Profane Love, Raphael’s Entombment, Madonna, and Caesar Borgia, and Correggio’s Danae. 10 min. walk hence, by several palaces and chs., leads to St. Angelo Bridge. The house in which Raphael lived many years is No. 121, Via de’ Coronari. The Quirinal Palace (1571-1605), on high and healthy ground, was a favorite summer-home of the popes until 1870, since which the King of Italy has occupied it. Pius VII. was imprisoned here in 1809 by Napoleon ; and here he died in 1823. See frescos in Sala Regia ; Pauline Chapel , a fac-simile (in form) of the Sistine; Audience Hall; frescos by Raphael, Overbeck, etc. ; and apartments of Napoleon, Emperor Francis I., and King Francis II. of Naples. In front is Piazza di Monte Cavallo , with obelisk, great granite fountain, and two famous colossal marble groups, the Horse-Tamers, formerly in Baths of Constantine. Near Quirinal stands Consul ta Palace , now Government offices ; Palazzo Rospigliosi (1603), with casino (Wed. and Sat. ; 9-3) full of priceless pictures, includ- ing Guido’s Aurora; S. Silvestro ch., with Domeni- chino’s frescos ; mediaeval Milizie and Conti towers. Beneath Ch. of Cappuccini tourists visit vaults containing 1,000 desiccated bodies of Capuchin monks, many in robes, others used in ghastly decorations. In 346 BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN. rear of monastery is Villa Ludovisi, along city -wall, with Juno Ludovisi, Guercino’s Aurora, etc., in its embowered casinos. Across Piazza Barberini (see Bernini’s Triton Fountain) is great and splendid Pa^ lazzo Barberini (1624), with noble halls, antique sculptures, library (50,000 vols. ; open Tliurs., 9-2), and Picture-Gallery (open daily, 12-5,) contain- ing Raphael’s Fornarina, the so-called Guido’s Beatrice Cenci, etc. In the great hall, see Pietro da Cortona’s fresco, “ The Triumph of Glory.” On Piazza di JSS. Apostoli , see ch. (555 ; restored 1872) with monuments byCanova; Valentino, Odes- calchi, and Ruffo Palaces; and Palazzo Colonna (1417), with splendid halls and gardens, antiques. Gobelins, and several halls filled with fine old pictures (open daily, 11-3; names of pictures on frames). The Baths of Diocletian, near rly.-stat., were once the largest in Rome, 6,000 ft. around, with 3,000 bathers daily. Built in 4th century by enslaved Chris- tians. One of the great vaulted halls was made into Ch. of S. Maria degli Angeli , by Michael Angelo (1561). It is 350 ft. long and 96 ft. high, with 16 columns (40 ft. high) of Oriental granite, Houdon’s statue of St. Bruno, Domenichino’s wonderful frescos, and tombs of Salvator Rosa and Carlo Maratta. Other halls of the Baths are now military storehouses, etc. ; as also is Carthusian Monastery , one of whose cloisters has 100 columns, and was designed by Angelo. A fragment of the Wall of Servius is in the rly.-stat. The Patriarchal Basilica of S. Maria Maggiore is on the Esquiline, between 2 squares, adorned with an ancient obelisk, and a column 46 ft. high, with bronze statue of Madonna. First ch. here built by Pope Liberius (in 352), on ground indicated by miraculous fall of snow in August. Present nave (279 X 57 ft.) ROME. 347 built in 432-40, with 42 marble Ionic columns (from Temple of Juno), and 5th-century mosaics on archi- trave, walls, and arch. Impressive fapade, with 5 por- tals, statue of Philip IY. of Spain, and interesting old mosaics. See high altar, a porphyry sarcophagus con- taining St. Matthew’s remains, with canopy on 4 porphyry columns ; Borghese Chapel, with altar of lapis lazuli and agate, and Madonna painted by St. Luke Chapel (with 10 porphyry columns) containing manger- cradle of Christ : tombs of 6 popes ; sumptuous Six- tine Chapel, and others. The first gold brought from America was given to the Pope by Eerdinand and. Isabella, and used in decorating this ch. Like St. Peter’s, this magnificent temple, so rich in gems and mosaics, should be visited several times. Near by, see S. Antonio Abate , the ch. where do- mestic animals are blessed on third week in Jan. * Triumphal Arch of Gallienus (a.d. 262) ; S. Eusebio „ frescoed by Raphael Mengs; tower of Aqua Claudia? S. Prassede (882 ; restored in 1450 and 1869), with 9th-century mosaics, column at w T hich Christ was scourged, bones of Sts. Praxedis and Pudentiana, and Chapel of Garden of Paradise, with mosaics on gold;. S. Pudenziana , on site where St. Peter lived, with 4th-century mosaics (3,000 martyrs are buried be- neath) ; S. Martino ai Monti (500), a basilica with 42 antique columns, and frescos by Poussin ; and S. Pietro in Vincoli (442), built by Empress Eudoxia to receive St. Peter’s chains, with 20 antique ‘Doric columns, fine bronze doors, and Michael Angelo’s famous statue of Moses. The Pantheon is the best preserved of the old Roman buildings. It was built by Augustus’s son-in- law, Agrippa, b.c. 2 7 ; burnt under Titus and Trajan restored by Septimus Severus and Caracalla ; conse* -348 THE PANTHEON. crated by Boniface IV., in 609, as Ch. of S. Maria ad Marty res ; deformed by its 2 campaniles, by Bernini; stripped of its bronzes by Urban VIII. ; and restored by Pius IX. Great excavations are now in progress, revealing Homan works and buildings. The vast round walls of brick, 20 ft. thick, were once covered with marble. The portico (now below, but once above, the square) bas 16 huge monolithic columns of Oriental granite, 39 ft. high, with Corinthian capitals of famed beauty. Statues of Augustus and Agrippa once stood here. The circular interior is very impres- sive ; and is lighted from a place 28 ft. across in the centre of the dome, open to the sky. This unrivalled dome is 140 ft. high and 140 ft. across. It was .ascended by Charles V. in 1536. The gilded bronze roof-tiles were carried to Constantinople in 655 ; and all the other bronzes were used in making cannon for the Citadel and the canopy in St. Peter’s. The 7 niches in which statues of the gods stood are now occupied by altars. Raphael is buried here, near his betrothed, Cardinal Bibiena’s niece. Here also rest Peruzzi, Giovanni da Udine, Annibale Caracci, and Perino della Vaga; and here is the tomb of King Victor Emmanuel of Italy. The Gothic S. Maria sopra Minerva, back of Pan- theon, was built in 1285 on site of Temple of Minerva, and contains tombs of Bembo, Era Angelico, Urban VII., Paul IV., Leo X., and Clement VII ; Michael Angelo’s Christ, and many choice works of art. Adja- cent Government building was headquarters of Do- minican Order, in which Galileo retracted his statement about, the earth’s motion. Great library here, 120,000 vols. and 4,500 MSS. Close by, see S. Ignazio (1626), and Collegio Romano , in which is famous Kircherian Museum of archaeology (9-3 daily ; 11.). ROME. 349 S. Andrea della Valle (1591) has tombs of Pius II. and III., and Domenichino’s celebrated Evangelists. Near by, see Palazzo Vidoni , designed by Raphael; Palazzo Massimi alle Colonne (1536), with statue of Discus-thrower ; great Palazzo Braschi ; Pasquino statue; ruins of Pompey’s Theatre; Chiesa Nuova (1605), with paintings by Rubens, monastery, and great library; Palazzo della Cancelleria , very elegant, de- signed by B ram ante ; busy Piazza di Campo deiPiori ; vast Palazzo Farnese (Fri., 10-2), built by Sangallo and Michael Angelo in 1534-45, now belonging to the French Government, and splendidly frescoed by Anni- bale Caracci (Triumphs of Ariadne and Bacchus); Pa- lazzo Spada alia Regola (1540), with great collections of antique sculptures and paintings (Mon., Wed., Sat., 9-3) ; and many other famous chs. and palaces. The grea»t Piazza Navona has 3 interesting foun- tains, and is bounded by the Laneelloti, Ornani, Braschi, and Pamfili Palaces ; S. Maria delV Anima (1514), Ger- man national ch., with mausoleum of Adrian VI. ; and the Spanish national ch. Near it is S. Maria della Pace (1181), containing Raphael’s Sibyls (1514). Fine cloister (1504) adjacent. S. Agostino (1483 ; re- stored in 1860) has tomb of Monica, Augustine’s mother, and Raphael’s famous Prophet Isaiah (1512). Adjacent is old monastery. In Piazza S. Apollinare, see ch. (1552) with Perugino’s Madonna, Seminario Romano school, and handsome Palazzo Altemps. S. Luigi de’ Francesi (1589), on square with Patrizi, Madama, and Giustiniani Palaces, has many notable paintings. Near by is University of the Sapienza, founded 1303, gnd now having 4 faculties and a library (Alessandrina) of 90,000 vols. S. of the Gesu, see many palaces and chs. ; the Tortoise ( Tartarughe ) Fountain (1585) ; Palazzo Costaguti (1590), with Albano’s and 350 CASTLE OF ST. ANGELO. Guercino’s frescoes ; Palazzo Mattel (1616), with many statues in court ; Palazzo Cenci , where Beatrice Cenci lived ; the Ghetto, pulled down in 1887, once the quarter of the Jews ; Colonnade of Octavia , built by Augustus in honor of his sister ; Theatre of Marcellus (b. c. 13), 12hugh arches only remaining ; and palaces of the Orsini and Savelli. From the Bridge of St. Angelo to the Vatican. — The 5-arched Ponte S. Angelo was built by Hadrian (a. d. 136) and named Pons AElius. 10 colossal angel- statues by Bernini (1688) adorn its parapets. At the end rises vast round Castle S. Angelo (fee,l 1.), built by Hadrian for a mausoleum (with colossal statue on summit), where the Antonines and other emperors and their families were buried. Later, it was a fortress; which repelled dreadful sieges, as when the Greeks (in 537) threw down its statues on the assailing Goths; and a prison, where Beatrice Cenci, Benvenuto Cellini, Cagliostro, Pope John X. (suffocated here), etc., were shut up. Very interesting interior, tomb chambers, inclined planes, cells, papal suite (where Clement VII. took refuge when Bourbon’s troops sacked Rome), and grand view from top, on which see bronze angel, com- memorating Gregory the Great’s vision of Archangel Michael sheathing his sword on this spot, after which the plague ceased to devastate Rome (hence name of castle). A covered way runs hence to the Vatican. Near by is enormous S. Spirit o Hospital, for sick, aged, lunatics, and foundlings (open 2-4), accommo- dating nearly 5,000 persons. The Borgo Nvozo leads by several chs. and palaces ( G-iraud , Ricciardi , etc ), and the Piazza Rusticticci, where Raphael died, to the mag- nificent St. Peter’s Square ( Piazza di S. Pietro ), 1110 X 840 ft. in area, surrounded by imposing Doric colonnades, built by Bernini in 1667, and composed of ROME. 351 284 columns and 90 pilasters, each 41-| ft. high. Oil the roofs are 126 colossal statues of saints. In centre ot square (or rather circle) stands an Obelisk brought by Caligula from Egyptian Heliopolis, and set up here in 1586. At each side is a handsome fountain (46 ft. high) . Entrance to St. Peters in front ; to the Vatican, to the i\, at end of colonnade. St. Peter's was built by Constantine (a.d. 326), on site of Nero’s circus, where St. Peter was martyred, and surrounded by rich chs., convents, etc. Charlemagne and many emperors and popes were crowned there. In 1450-1626 the present ch. was built, having among its architects Bramante, Raphael, Peruzzi, Michael Angelo (from his 72d to 79th year), Fontana, and Bernini. It cost over $60,000,000 ; took 176 years (tbe reigns of 28 popes) to build; and covers 240,000 sq. ft., being the largest ch. in the world. Total length, 696 ft. ; length of transept, 450 ft. ; length of nave, 619 ft. ; width of nave, 88 ft. (height, 153 ft.) ; height of dome and cross, 470 ft. ; diameter, 141 ft. Fa 9 ade (finished in 1612), 369 ft. long, 165 ft. high, crowned by statues of Christ and Apostles, each 19 ft. high. Portico, 234 X 43 ft. (66 ft. high), with colossal statues of Constantine and Charlemagne, Giot- to’s mosaic of La Navicella , and brazen central doors (made in 1447). Interior has 30 altars, 148 columns (mostly from ruins of ancient Borne); inlaid marble pavement (see stones showing length of other great chs.), brilliantly gilded vaulting upheld by Corinthian pillars and piers, famous bronze statue of St. Peter enthroned, many colossal statues of saints, vast in- scriptions and pictures in mosaic, canopy 95 ft. high made by Bernini (1633) of bronze from Pantheon, high altar over tomb of St. Peter (whicli is approached by marble stairs, and surrounded by 112 ever-burning lamps), wooden throne of St. Peter, many vast and 352 THE VATICAN. beautiful chapels, tombs of the popes, many paintings by great masters, and statues by Michael Angelo, Canova, Thorwaldsen. See tombs of Maria Sobieski, several Stuart princes, Palestrina, Christina of Sweden, etc. In Sacristy (1775), see 3 chapels, many rare pictures by Giotto, etc. In Treasury , see candelabra by Cellini and Angelo, Charlemagne’s dalmatic, and rare jewels. The Crypts are very interesting, with many chapels, mosaics, carvings, and tombs. 137 popes were buried in St. Peter’s. The Borne (open daily, 8-10), 630 ft. around, rises 308 ft. above the roof (to which, 142 steps). Look down into eh. from inner gallery. Stairs between inner and outer dome to Lantern (grand view over Rome and Campagna), whence you may climb into ball under cross (large enough to hold 16 persons). Walk around the ch., outside, to see its vast propor- tions. At its side and rear, see ancient German ceme- tery and hospice ; and Palace of the Inquisition (now barracks). The Vatican, the largest palace in the world, ad- joins St. Peter’s, and has 20 courts and 11,000 halls and rooms. Pope Symmachus founded first papal palace here in 498 ; and Charlemagne dwelt therein. After return from Avignon the popes lived here, desert- ing the Lateran; and after 1450 the palace was en- larged by successive popes, from designs by Bramante, Bernini, etc. Notice singular uniforms of Swiss f uards, designed by Michael Angelo. Ascend splen- id Scala Regia to Sistine Chapel, built and named for Pope Sixtus IV. in 1473, 133 X 45 ft. in area (best light at morning). Prescos by Signorelli, Botticelli, etc. Magnificent ceiling, frescoed by Michael Angelo (1508-11), Creation, Fall, Deluge, Prophets and Sibyls, etc. On altar- wall, 64 ft. wide, Angelo’s terrb ble and incomparable Last Judgment. See Pauline ROME. 35a Chapel (1540), with other frescos by Angelo; Sale t Ducale , frescos by Brill; and Sola Regia , historical frescos by Vasari, etc. The Loggie are adorned with Biblical scenes, from Raphael’s designs, and beautiful stucco work. Raphael’s Stanze are 4 rooms con- taining the noblest frescos of Raphael (1508-20), the Disputa, Parnassus, School of Athens, Heliodorus, Attila, Liberation of St. Peter, etc. The Chapel of Nicholas V. has spiritual frescos by Pra Angelico (1447). The Picture-Gallery contains paintings taken by Napoleon from the Roman chs., and placed here when brought back from Paris. See Raphael’s Transfiguration and Madonna di Foligno, Domeni- chino’s St. Jerome, and works of Leonardo, Fra An- gelico, Titian, Guido, Murillo, etc. The Museum of Sculptures (closed Mon. and Thur., 2-4) contains 1,800 pieces, including Apollo Belvedere, Perseus of Canova, Laocoon, Juno, Minerva Medica, Mercury, Torso, Penelope, Eros, etc. See also porphyry sarcopha- gus of Empress Helena ; Braccio Nuovo hall, with 16 splendid ancient columns (alabaster, etc.) ; Belvedere Court ; Bala delle Muse, with 16 Carrara-marble col- umns ; Bala Rotonda , on model of Pantheon ; Hall of Greek Cross ; magnificent Tapestry of Raphael (1515-16), representing Biblical scenes ; Gregorian Museum of Etruscan Antiquities , in 12 rooms ; Egyptian Museum , 10 rooms; Library and Archives, i 20, 000 vols. and 24,000 MSS. (many of them very precious) ; papal manufactory of mosaic , where 10,000 colors and shades of glass are used ; and gardens of Vatican. Stroll down the riverside Longara, nearly 1 M. long, joining the Leonine City (where are St. Peter’s and the Vatican) to Trastevere. Passing under Gate- of the Holy Spirit, ascend to S. Onofrio eh. (1439), with tombs of Tasso and Mexzofanti. Adjacent mon» .354: TRASTEVERE. — JANICULAN HILL. astery has Leonardo’s Madonna, Tasso’s cell and oak. Farther down Longara, see fine Palazzo Salviati (now civic archives) ; Botanical Gardens ; very beautiful ’Villa Farnesina (1506), with Raphael’s famous fres- cos of Psyche and Galatea ; and Palazzo Corsini (open Mon., Thurs., Sat., 9-3), with 9 halls of paint- ings, 8 of books and MSS., and a garden of rare beauty. Enter, by Porta Settimiana } into Trastevere (from Trans-Tiber), a quarter whose inhabitants claim to be direct descendants of the ancient Romans. See 12th- century basilica of S. Crisogono, near which mosaic- paved and frescoed house of No. 7 company of old Roman (3d-century) fire department ; S. Maria Traste- vere, built by Calixtus I. (a.d. 217), with 22 antique columns, mosaics, etc. ; iSt. Cecilia (a.d. 222), with mosaics, broad court, portico on African-marble col- umns, and tomb of St. Cecilia, wiiose house stood on this site. On the Janiculan Hill over Trastevere, command- ing a noble panoramic view of Rome and mts., see S. Pietro in Montorio (1500), on site of St. Peter’s martyrdom, with many ancient paintings; Tempietto (1502) in court of adjacent monastery, with 16 Doric columns ; Acqua Paola, a magnificent old fountain, outlet of Trajan’s aqueduct ; S. Pancrazio Gate (fine views near) ; and Villa Doria Pamfili, a very lovely park and casino. This trip over the Janiculan Hill should not be omitted. Between Trastevere and the Ghetto, in the Tiber, is Hie Island of S. Bartolommeo (ancient bridges from both shores), with Ch. of S. Bartolommeo (built a.d. 1000), with 14 ancient columns, on site of a heathen temple (iEsculapius was worshipped here). The island also has a large monastery, and a fountain- adorned square. ROME. 355 The Capitol is reached by asphalt stairs from Piazza Ara Cceli, with Egyptian lions at base, and marble Dioscuri (Castor and Pollux), or Horse-Tamers, at the top. See, also, the Trophies of Marius ; antique statues of Constantine and Constans ; and male and female wolves, caged. The Piazza del Campidoglio , planned by Michael Angelo and built by Paul III. (1536), has in its centre the famous and unrivalled antique bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius, anciently sup- posed to represent Constantine, and placed before the Late ran from 1187 to 1538. The palaces on three sides were built or remodelled by Angelo. The Pal- ace of the Conservators (r. side ; open 10-3) con- tains halls of busts of celebrated Italians, Latin sculp- tures, Etruscan museum, great halls with frescos from Punic and Cimbrian wars, and a gallery of 200-300 paintings. In the Capitoline Museum (1. side ; open 10-3) see Marforio, the colossal river-god, and sarco- phagi ; halls of bronzes and urns ; ancient marble plan of Home ; exquisitely fine mosaic of Doves of Plinv ; 82 antique busts of emperors ; antique statues of the philosophers and gods; and vast number of famous classic sculptures, including Capitoline Juno, Amazon, Antinous, rosso-antico Eaun, Dying Gladiator, and Capitoline Venus (in closed cabinet). The Palace of the Senator, at end of square, was built in 1389, and adorned by Michael Angelo. It is now the town« hall. The campanile (1572) commands a fine view, and contains great bell. Just S. E. is the Tarpeian Rock. Streets lead from Capitol down into Eorum. High over Capitol (long stairway), on site of Temple of Jupiter, is 9th-cent. Ch. of S. Maria in Ara Coeli, with homely front, and interior adorned with 22 an- tique columns of assorted sizes, many paintings, chapel of the Bambino, tomb of St. Helena, etc. Adjacent is 356 TRAJAN’S COLUMN. splendid Franciscan monastery (1251), with two courts, now a barrack. While hearing the monks chant in Ara Coeli (1764), Gibbon conceived the idea of his famous history. The Mamertine Prison , between Ara Coeli and Forum (fee, *1.), was built by the early kings of Rome, very massively. Here were slain Jugurtha, Vercingetorix, Joras, and Catiline’s allies; and here St. Peter was imprisoned (they show pillar to which he w r as chained). Between the Forum and Tiber, see round 7th-cen- tury Ch. of S. Teodoro ; temple of Janus Quadrifrons , built in Constantine’s time ; 4th-century basilica of S. Giorgio in Velabro, with antique columns ; Arcus Ar- gentarius , built by merchants of adjacent Forum Boarium («attle-market) to Septimius Severus ; mouth of great sewer of Cloaca Maxima; 3d-century ch. of S. Maria in Cosmedin , on site and with columns of King Servius’s Temple of Fortune , and with handsome 8th-century campanile; round temple (of Yesta, or Hercules), surrounded by 19 (once 20) Corinthian columns; pretty little Ionic temple, now Ch. of S. Maria Egiziaca; House of Rienzi (10th century) ; and Ponte Rotto {Pons AEmilius ), with suspension-bridge filling place of arches swept away in 1598, leading to Trastevere. Trajan’s Column, 87 ft. high (138 ft. with base and statue of St. Peter), is surrounded with a spiral bas-relief, 3 ft. wide and 660 ft. long, on which are 2,500 human figures, illustrating events of Dacian war. Tra- jan was buried beneath. Stairs inside to top. Close by, see remains of vast Basilica TJlpia , built a.d. 111- 114, by Apollodorus of Damascus, for Trajan, and once the grandest building in Rome. See, also, chs. of Nome di Maria (1683) and Loreto (1507). Near by are frag. ROME. 357 ments of Forum of Augustus, of which a massive wall, 450 ft. long, and 3 columns of Temple of Mars TJltor remain. The Academy of St. Luke (open 9-3) contains statuary by Canova and Thorwaldsen, and many fine old paintings, including veiled pictures by Titian, etc. This is a choice collection. Near by is an imposing fragment of Nervals Forum. The Palace of the Caesars consists of enormous ruins on the Palatine, the original site of early Rome, where dwelt Evander, Romulus, Catiline, Cicero, Au- gustus, Tiberius, Vespasian, Odoacer, Theodorie, etc. Fifty years ago the Palatine was a hill of vineyards, with convents, but the emperors of Russia and Prance began excavations, which Italy has continued (open Sun. and Thurs. in summer, 9-7). Enter from Porum, and see Museum , with articles found here ; foundations of Caligula’s palace ; parts of Tiberius’s palace ; hand- some private house of Livia, with mural paintings ; Fla- vian palace, built by Vespasian; platform of Temple of Jupiter Victor; colonnades; stairs hewn in rock ; school-house; and other very interesting ruins. (Get local guide.) The Forum Romanum was a marshy space be- tween the Capitol and Palatine, the battle-ground of Sabines and Romans, afterwards the centre of their state, embellished with many splendid temples and statues, the scene of many famous events, and seat of the councils which ruled the world. After the fall of Rome, some of the temples became chs. and others were tom down for building materials ; and the troops who came to the aid of Hildebrand, in the lltli century, completed the destruction. Over this rubbish-heaped Campo Vaccina (cow-pasture), fortresses and houses arose. In 1536, Paul III. began to clear the giound, but little was done until 1803. Since 1871 extensive works have been car* 358 FORUM ROMANUM. Tied on. The original level was 30 ft. below the pres- ent. The remains of the Tabularium (built B.c. 87), vast vaults for archives and 3,000 bronze tables of de- crees and records, now serve as foundations for Palace of the Senator. See its ponderous arcades and gallery, and view over Forum. The marble Arch of Septimius Severus is covered with sculptures of the victories of Septimius, and his sons Caracalla and Geta, over the Parthians and Arabians. Erected in 203, it became a medieval castle, and was excavated in 1803. Back of it are remains of Temple of Concord (b.c. 366, restored by Tiberius), where the Senate sometimes met, and Cicero impeached Catiline. The tall white columns near by pertained to the Temple of Vespasian (once of Jupiter Tonans), built by Domitian, and restored by Septimius and Caracalla. To the W. stand the Schola Xantha , the home of the official scribes, and the Colonnade of the Twelve Gods (built a.d. 367, by an anti-Christian pre- fect). 8 granite Ionic columns in front of Vespasian’s Temple, pertained to Temple of Saturn, the treasury of the republic (built b.c. 491), in good order till 15th cen- tury. Near by were the orators’ tribunes ( rostra ), often used by Cicero. The Column of B hoc as was erected in 608, in honor of a Greek emperor, and excavated in 1813, at cost of Duchess of Devonshire. Near by, see Basilica Julia , 333 by 159 ft., built by Csesar, with parts of its many pillars remaining. 3 Parian-marble columns still stand on site of splendid Temple of Castor and Bollux (built b.c. 484 ; rebuilt a.d. 6). On E. are founda- tions of Temple of Ceesar , where Mark Antony deliv- ered his funeral oration. The Temple of Faustina (a.d. 141), fairly preserved, with 10 magnificent Euboean- marble columns, encloses the ch. of S. Lorenzo in Mi- randa . Divine honors were accorded by the Senate to Faustina and Antoninus, her husband. See adjacent ROME. 35£ 7th-century cli. of S. Adriano , on site of Curia Hostilia. The Via Sacra, leading from S. gate of Rome to Cap- itol, lies 20 ft. below the road. The circular Temple of Romulus is now the ch. of SS. Cosmo and Damian, with porphyry columns, bronze doors, 6th-century mosaics, and tombs of saints. The Basilica of Constantine, origi- nally 300 by 264 ft. in area, has 3 stupendous arches remaining (beautiful view from top). Back of ch. of S. Francesca Romana (interesting tombs and relics) are ruins of once superb Temple of Venus and Rome , de- signed by Hadrian, who would be architect as well as emperor (a.d. 135). The marble Triumphal Arch of Titus , small, but very interesting and graceful, com- memorates the victories over the Jews, a.d. 70. It was a mediaeval fortress of the Frangipani. See the bas- reliefs. Hence the Sacred Way descends to the vast building named, from colossal statue of Nero, the Colos- seum, Rome’s chief marvel. It was founded by Ves- pasian and finished by Titus, Jewish captives doing the work (a.d. 80) ; 10,000 men and 5,000 beasts were slain, at its inauguration ; the scene of countless fights of gladiators and wild beasts ; and of magnificent celebra- tion of 1000th anniversary of Rome’s foundation (a.d. 248) ; afterwards fortress of Frangipani, Annibaldi, etc. ; in 14th and 15th centuries a quarry, its fine ma- sonry being used to build Farnese, Cancelleria, S. Mar- co, and other vast palaces ; about 1750 redeemed, and consecrated to the Passion of Christ. It is an ellipse, ^ M. around and 156 ft. high, with arena 279 by 174 ft. in area, which could be flooded for naval combats : 87,000 spectators could be accommodated. Only ^ of the Colosseum now stands. Visit it by moonlight also. The adjacent Arch of Constantine, the most beau- tiful in Rome, commemorates the victory over Max- entius (311), the Pagan emperor, and stands on the 360 BATHS OF TITUS. — S. STEFANO BOTONDO. Triumphal Way. The best of the many sculptures were taken from an older monument of Trajan. Pius VII. unburied this arch in 1804. Close by, see remains of sumptuous Baths of Titus (J fr.), on the Esquiline, on part of site of Nero’s Golden House. Beautiful mu- ral paintings here, which suggested Raphael’s frescos in Vatican loggie. S. Clemente, the oldest ch. in Rome, is midway between the Colosseum and Lateran. Up- per ch. is a basilica, with 16 antique columns, old mo- saics, and rich canopy. The lower ch., built before 392, and damaged by Guiscard’s Norman army (1084), has been excavated since 1858. It has 16 antique columns and 5th-century frescos (very interesting). Still far- ther down are remains of St. Clement’s (4tli pope) house, discovered in 1867. (See Hachettes guide- book.) Near by, on lonely Celian Hill, see ch. of SS. Quatro Coronati, to 4 saints martyred bv Diocletian, — very ancient, destroyed by Guiscard’s Normans, and restored in 1111 ; S. Stefano Rotondo, the largest circular ch. in existence, built by Simplicius in 470, with 56 columns and many frescos of terrible mar- tyrdoms ; La Navicella, rebuilt in 817, with many columns of granite and porphyry, and 9th-century mosa- ics ; 5th-century SS. Giovanni e Paolo, with Passionist monastery and garden; S. Gregorio (575), 16 antique columns, part of St. Gregory’s house, a bit of Servian Wall, and 3 very interesting detached chapels. The broad Piazza of S. Giovanni in Laterano has a red-granite obelisk 104 ft. high (with pedestal, 153 ft.), erected at Thebes, b.c. 1560; brought to Rome by Constantine, a.d. 357 ; and set up here in 1587. On one side, Women’s Hospital; opposite which see Scala Santa, 28 marble steps (brought to Rome by Empress Helena, in 326), by which Christ is said to have entered Pilate’s palace, at Jerusalem. They are ascended on ROME. 361 the knees only, and lead to very sacred chapel (1278). Here, alongside wall of Home, and overlooking Cam- pagna and mts., stands venerable basilica of S . Giovanni in Lateran, on whose front is inscribed Omnium urbis et or bis ecclesiarum mater et caput. This is the Pope’s ch. as Bishop of Rome ; at St. Peter’s he is sovereign Pontiff of the world. Five ecumenical councils were held here, between 1123 and 1512. Constantine built first ch. here, on site of palace of Laterani family. Present ch. built 1360-1731. Fafade with colossal statues, bronze doors, statue of Constantine. Inte- rior has grand nave, with 4 aisles, inlaid pavement, massive pillars with 24 statues of Prophets and Apos- tles, bronze statue of Martin V., Altar of the Sacrament (with antique columns of gilded bronze), many fine old mosaics, Giotto’s fresco of Pope Boniface VIII., mag- nificent Corsini Chapel (inlaid with precious stones), Torlonia Chapel (in white marble and gold), Donatel- lo’s wooden statue of St. John the Baptist, Bernini’s Piet a, and the great Papal Altar, over which is a canopy containing heads of Sts. Peter and Paul. Beautiful 13th-century monastery court adjacent ; also octagonal Baptistery , in which it is said that Constantine was baptized, with 8 porphyry columns, basalt font, bronze doors (1196), 7th-century mosaics, and 3 oratories (built in 461 and 640). In adjacent Lateran Palace the popes twelt for a thousand years (to 1377). Pres- ent palace ouilt in 1586; and in 1843 converted into vast and interesting museum (open 9-4) of antique sculptures, Christian sarcophagi and inscriptions (from catacombs), and picture-gallery filling 8 rooms, with remarkable Latin mosaics. S Croce in Gerusalemme, among lonely fields between Aqua Claudia and Roman wall, is a 4th-cen- tury basilica, founded by Empress Helena, on earth 362 BATHS OF CARACALLA. brought from Jerusalem, with mosaics, frescos, tombs of saints, and the Inscription on the Cross. Cistercian monastery adjacent, with famous library. Also, ruins of Castrensian Amphitheatre , etc. To N., ruins of 3d- century decagonal Temple of Minerva Medica, once rich in statues; and near rly., S. Bibiana (470), with an- tique columns inside. In casino of Villa Massimo, on Piazza Lateran, rich modern frescos from Dante, Tasso, and Ariosto, by Overbeck, Schnorr, etc. Villa Wolkonsky near by. The marble-clad brick Pyramid of Cestius, at Porta S. Paolo, is 116 ft. high (base, 98 ft. square), with chamber 19 X 13 ft., where the tribune Caius Cestius was buried (b.c. 30). Close by are the Protestant Cemeteries, with graves of Keats, Severn, etc., and of the heart of Shelley. See, across meadows, the lonely Monte Testaccio , 164 ft. high, composed entirely of broken pottery, crowned by a cross (grand view hence), and cut into by wine-sellers’ grottos. To the N., see ancient Latin Emporium and quays of Marmorata ; also 3 chs. on Aventine : A. Sabina , built in 425, in basilica form, with 24 antique Corinthian columns of Parian marble, and open roof, and adjacent Dominican mon- astery (beautiful cloisters); A. Alessio, very ancient, restored in 1217, with Hieronymite monastery adjoin- ing ; and S. Maria Aventina , with tombs of Knights of Malta, whose priory is close by. The Baths of Caracalla (fee, 1 1), nearly 1 M. from Arch of Constantine (by S. Balbina , a very ancient ch., with open roof), still show remains of their an- cient vastness and magnificence. They cover an area 1,080 ft. square, and could accommodate 1,600 bathers. Caracalla was the founder (a.d. 212). Many famous statues were discovered here. Spin did view from roof. Near by, see ch. of SS. Nereo e Achilleo , built by THE APPIAN WAY. 363 Leo III. in 300, on site of Temple of Isis, in basilica style; S. Sisto , and convent of S. Domenico; very ancient S. Cesareo ; and, near the closed Porta Latina , old chs. of S. Giooanni , and a Latin tomb. Beyond Tomb of the Scipios fr.) and Columbaria , the street passes the mutilated Arch of Drusus (b.c. 8), and enters the Appian Way at S. Sebastian Gate. The Appian Way (called Regina Viarum ) was begun b.c. 312 by Appius Claudius, and ran to Capua, and afterwards to Brindisi, forming main route to S. Italy, Greece, and Egypt. By order of Pius IX. it was excavated as far as Fratocchie ) 11 M. out, on rly. to Albano. Beautiful views all along, of Campagna, aqueducts, and Alban Mts. Beyond Domine quo Vadis ch., a path leads off to Temple of Deus Rediculus , a handsome little building of Hadrian’s era ; the Grotto of Rgeria ; a red-brick 2d- century tomb, or temple, now the ch. of S. TJrbano (with frescos of a.d. 1011) ; and the tombs on the Via Latina. On Yia Appia are Catacombs of S. Calixtus (fee, 1-2 1.), with tombs of St. Cecilia and many 2d and 3d century popes and martyrs, and 7th-century Byzantine paintings. Cata- combs of Domitilla and St. Prcetextatus near by. ^ M. beyond is very ancient S. Sebastiano ch., under which are extensive catacombs (1 1.). Earther on see remains of Circus of Maxentius , built in 311, 1,590 ft. long, with seats for 18,000 people. On hill beyond stands the famous Tomb of Ccecilia Metella , round, 65 ft. in diameter, and in 13th century a tower of now vanished castle of the Gaetani. Beyond, the Way is bordered by ancient tombs on either side, and the old Latin pavement is the road-bed. Noble views of the mts. and the far prolonged arches of Aqua Marcia and Aqua Claudia. 6 M. out is Casale Rotondo , a large tomb ; and it is 8 M. thevy ^ to Albano. Near 1th milestone is Tomb oj 364 : THE CAMPAGNA. Seneca (so called), near site of Seneca’s house, aud also near ruins of beautiful little Temple of Jupiter, where many Christians suffered martyrdom. 3 tumuli, 1 M, beyond, are thought to be the tombs of the Horatii and Curiatii. At 9th milestone are ponderous brick ruins of villa and tomb of Emperor Gallienus. Excursions near Rome. — The Campagna is a great rolling plain of volcanic earth, between the sea and the Sabine Mts., with shallow ravines and low steep hills. Pools of water collect here in winter, and stag- nate in summer, giving forth the terrible malaria which makes Rome’s vicinity so unhealthy. But every tourist should see Italy in her fair summer attire ; and an August sojourn may be made at Rome with safety, by taking due precautions after sundown, and keeping in- doors at evening. The patriarchal and pilgrimage ch. of S. Lorenzo fu- ori le Mura, f M. beyond Porta di S. Lorenzo , on tomb of St. Lawrence, was founded by Constantine ; rebuilt in 578 ; remodelled in 1216 ; and restored in 1864-70. See bronze statue of St. Lawrence, in square ; fa9ade with frescos of founders ; 10th-century mosaic pave- ment ; 22 antique Ionic columns of nave, upholding open roof; lower and older ch., with 12 noble Corin- thian columns of pavonazzetto ; violet-marble columns in presbytery ; silver shrine with remains of St. Law- rence ; beautiful 13th-century cloister adjacent. Great cemetery near. In vestibule Pius IX. is buried. The basilica of S. Agnese fuori le Mura, beyond the Patrizi and Torlonia villas, 1^ M. outside Porta Pia, was built by Constantine, over St. Agnes’s tomb, and restored in 625 and 1856 Beyond court, 45 marble steps lead down to the ch., with mosaics, inlaid altars, 16 precious antique columns, and tabernacle (with por- phyry columns) over alabaster statue of St. Agnes. ROME. 365 Adjacent is S. Costanza , built by Oonstaiitiiie as tomb of his daughter Constantia, with dome resting on 24 columns of granite, porphyry sarcophagus of Constantia, and 4th-century mosaics. S. Paolo fuori le Mura, 1^ M. from Porta S. Paolo (omnibus every hr. from Palazzo Venezia), on Ostian road, alongside Tiber, is on site of a deeply ven- erated ch. built by Constantine, over St. Paul’s tomb, and magnificently enriched and enlarged by emperors and popes, but burnt in 1823. Present ch., consecrated in 1854, of valuable materials and imposing propor- tions, is 390 X 195 ft. in area, and 75 ft. high (inside). Wonderfully impressive nave, and four aisles, with 80 enormous Simplon-granite columns, whose bases and capitals are of marble ; long lines of mosaic portraits of all the popes ; and stained-glass windows. See alabas- ter columns given by Viceroy of Egypt ; malachite altars, given by the Czar ; 5th-century mosaics ; splen- did altar-canopy (1285) ; and rich chapels. Adjacent is beautiful (now secularized) Benedictine cloister (1.220), surrounding orange-grove . 2 M. hence is S. Sebastiano (p. 363) ; and out on Via Ardeatina (1J-2 M.) are abbey and 3 chs. (393-1599) of Tre Fontane, where St. Paul was beheaded. The handsome Ponte Molle, 1J M. (dull road) from Porta del Popolo, was rebuilt in 1815 on site of Milvian Bridge, built b.c. 109, where Maxentius was slain, after being defeated by Constantine (a.d. 312). 2 M. out is Aqua Acetosa, a famous old mineral-spring, beyond the once sumptuous villa which Vignola built for Pop( Julius III. Beyond Ponte Molle are the far-viewing rock-tombs of the Nasones, the Villa of Livia , and the famous Valley of Poussin. Monte Mario, 1| M. from Porta Angelica , is a bold hill (road to top), 476 ft. high, and commanding a superb 366 TORRE DEI SCHIAVI. — ALBAN 0. view of Rome, the Campagna, the mts., and the sea. There are several villas here, among which see Villa Mellini, famed for its prospect, and Villa Madama , de- signed by Raphael, and owned in turn by Clement VII., the Earnese family, and the King of Naples. See loggia, with frescos by Giulio Romano. The Via Nomentana leads from Porta Pia, 2 M., from which it crosses the Anio by an ancient bridge. 1^ M. beyond is the famous Mons Sacer ; and the road is prolonged to the battle-field of Mentana (1867). The Via Fraenestina leads from Porta Maggiore to (2 M.) the Torre dei Schiavi, a favorite resort of artists. It is a large group of very obscure ruins, once pertaining to the villa of Gordian, and in Middle Ages used for a ch. and a castle. 3 M. from Porta Mag- giore, on Via Labicana , are the ruins of the mausoleum of the Empress Helena (now a ch.). The Via Campana runs along the Tiber, from Porta Portese to (5 M.) the Vigna Ceccarelli , with scanty remains of temple and hall of ancient agricultural brotherhood of the Fratres Arvales , founded by the foster-brothers of Romulus, to invoke the Goddess of Plenty. Near by, see well-preserved Catacombs of S. G-enerosa ; also (near Magliana stat.), chateau of La Magliana, once frescoed by Raphael. The Via Salara leads from the Salarian Gate to (2JM.) the ancient stone bridge over the Anio, de- stroyed by the Goths, rebuilt by Narses, and blown up in 1867. On far- viewing height close by stood Antem- nse, a town destroyed by Romulus ; and 4 M. beyond, near Castel Giubileo (built by Boniface VIII. in 1300), are the scanty ruins of Eidenae. Albano {Hotel de la Foste ; T)e Russie ; Citta di Parigi) is 18 M. from Rome (1 hr. ; fares, 3 1. 90 c., 31. 10 c., 11. 90 c.), by rly. across Campagna, crossing ITALY. 367 lines of aqueducts and Via Latina. Climb of f hr. (2| M.) from stat. to Albano (omnibus, |1.). Omni- buses run twice daily from Rome to Albano (2| hrs. ; 2J1.). You can also drive hither over Appian Way. At Albano were Pompefs Villa , Domitian’s great Albanum , the vineyards whose wine Horace praised, and the medieval fortress of the Savelli. It has many Roman relics, especially in the Villa Doria (open to visitors). The high situation of Albano (1,250 ft.) and its pure air make it a favorite summer-resort. The town is famous for handsome women. Beyond the Villa Barberini is the large papal palace of Castel Gandolfo, still pertaining to the Pope. Beautiful view from Capuchin Monastery. Good roads on upper and lower galleries on E. of Lake Albano, an extinct crater, shaded with trees, and one of the love- liest of Italian lakes. The Romans (b.c. 397) cut a tunnel (still remaining) through the rock, and partly drained it, in obedience to an oracle. Alba Longa was near by. A magnificent arcaded stone viaduct, 1,020 ft. long and 192 ft. high (built 1846-63), crosses the glen from Albano to ancient Ariccia (Martorelli) , a town and palace pertaining to the Chigi family. Roads lead through noble old forests to Rocca di Papa, a village near reputed camp of Hannibal. The Via Triumphalis ascends to crest of Monte Cavo (3,130 ft. high ; very broad view), where are remains of great Temple of Jupiter Latiaris, the chief shrine of the Latin League (Passionist monastery founded here in 1783). This region is described by Virgil in last books of AEneid , where Juno, from Monte Cavo, observes the Latin and Roman armies. Beautiful scenery toward Genzano ( Posta ), 3 M. from Albano, whence one overlooks the crystalline Lake of Nemi, 2| M. around, and 300 ft. deep, in an extinct crater. Ovid speaks of this lake. 368 FRASCATI. — TIVOLI. which was called the Mirror of Diana, from a temple of the goddess on its shore. Here Tiberius had a splendid vessel afloat. Frascati ( Londra ; Frascati ), 35 M. by rly. from Rome (fares, 2 1. 70 c., 2 1. 15 c., 1 1. 30 c.), is on a foot-hill of the Alban Mts., in a very healthy climate. It has many tine old 16th century villas, among which see Aldobrandini, with tine fountains and oak groves; Falconieri (1550). with many pictures and pretty gardens ; Rujjinella , now owned by Prince Lancelots ; Mondragone , now a Jesuits 5 school; and Piceolomini; where Baronius lived. A shaded road leads hence to Tusculum, founded by Ulysses’s son Selegonus, the birthplace of Cato, and favorite residence of Cicero. It held out valiantly against Hannibal ; but was destroyed by a papal Roman army in 1191. See Roman amphi- theatre , recently excavated Villa of Cicero , reservoir , Camaldoli Convent , and lofty Citadel (2,218 ft. high), with magnificent view, 3 M. distant, by a forest-road, is Grotta Ferrata, a Greek Basilian monastery (founded 1002), with famous frescos by Domenicliino. Hence a guide will lead in 1^ hrs. to Rocca di Papa and Monte Cavo. 4^ M. distant is Marino, an old Orsini fortress on Alban Mts., captured in 1424 (and still held) by the Colonnas. Good pictures in the 3 chs. 3 M. hence is rly.-stat., 35 min. (2 1., 1| 1., 1 1.) from Rome. Pleasant road also to Castel Gandolfo and Alhano. Tivoli {Pace; Regina; Sibilla ) is 25 M. from Rome by rly. (return fares, 4 1. 55 c. , 3 1. 20 c., 2 1. 5c.) or carriage (1-horse, 15 1.: 2-horse, 20 1), passing near Grotto of Cervara. This was the ancient Tibur, founded 5 centuries before Rome, and conquered by Camillus, b. c. 380. Here dwelt Maecenas, Horace, Propertius, and Catullus ; and here Zenobia passed her captivity. ITALY. 369 Augustus, Hadrian, and other emperors and nobles had palaces here. It is now a huddled town of 7,000 inhab. 1 M. out is Hadrian’s Villa (get permit at Palazzo Braschi, Rome), once the finest in the world, with many imposing buildings, covering several square M. It was destroyed by Totila’s Goths, and only the most fragmentary ruins remain. The beautiful circular Corinthian Temple of the Sibyl (probably dedicated to Hercules or Vesta) and the oblong Ionic temple adjacent (now ch. of S. Giorgio) command a fine view' of the Falls. Path leads to Grotto of Neptune and Sirens' Grotto. The chief fall is 330 ft. high; the smaller falls are Le Cascatelle. Many other fine bits of scenery here, and Roman ruins ; also, Villa Braschi , overlooking Campagna, and Villa d' Este (1549), with very lovely gardens and ancient frescos. Many charm- ing excursions hence among Sabine Mts. Monte Gennaro (4,800 ft.) may be ascended in 6 hrs. bv bridle-path. It is 11J M. from Tivoli to Valley of Licenza , site of Horace’s Sabinum farm. 23 M. (5 hrs.) up Anio Valley is Subiaco {La Pernice), a mediaeval castle-crowned town, built on remains of Nero’s villa, and with very famous monasteries of S. Scolastica and S. Benedetto , a vast group of cloisters on site where St. Benedict lived. Palestrina, 22 M. from Rome (daily omnibus), 12 from Frascati, 4| from Valmontone stat., was the ancient Prceneste ; conquered by Camillus (b.c. 380) ; headquarters of Marius ; favorite Roman summer- resort (see Horace) ; scene of terrible wars between Colonnas and popes in Middle Ages; and since 1630 the property of the Barberini. See Cyclopean wall-, immense but shapeless Roman ruins, Barberini Pal- ace, Colonna fortress (1322), and vast view over Campagna. 370 OSTIA. — NAPLES. Bracciano ( Piva ), 24 M. from Rome (omnibus alternate days, in 6 hrs. ; 41.), has a wonderful old Gothic castle of lava, which Sir Walter Scott greatly admired. It was built by the Orsini, and is now owned by Odescalchi. Fine view from tower. Adja- cent lake is 20 M. around, and abounds in eels and malaria. Ostia, 14 M. from Rome, near mouth of Tiber, once had 80,000 inhab., but now has scarcely 100. The Saracens were terribly defeated here about a.d. 850. See S. Aurea, Episcopal Palace , and tombs, temples, and baths of adjacent ruined city and seaport of classic age. 2 M. hence is very interesting Castel Fusano, a Chigi stronghold against pirates, 1^ M. from sea, in great pine-forest. There are many other deeply interesting excursions near Rome. See Hare’s Pays near Rome , Baedeker’s Central Italy , Murray, Hachette, or Cook. Naples, Baia, Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri. Express trains, Rome to Naples, lirs. (fares, 34J 1., 23 J 1.); ordinary trains, 9 hrs. (fares lower) Some travellers go from Rome'to Civita Yecchia by rly., and thence by steamer, for the sake of the lovely view en- tering the Bay of Naples. Paris to Naples, via Turin, Florence, and Rome, in 53 hrs. (fares, 246J fr., 203 fr. 10 c.). Marseilles to Naples by sea, 181 fr., 128 fr. Naples is a convenient point of departure for Mediterranean ports. Steamships sail frequently for Alexandria, Tunis, Cagliari, Messina, Palermo, Genoa, Leghorn, and Marseilles. Hotels. — Hotel Royal des Etr angers; Metropole ; Gran Bretagna ; Grand Hotel ; Hotel du Vesuve ; He la Riviera ; Bristol ; Parker's ; Vittoria ; Be Rome; Be Geneve ; Washington; Hotel del' Univers. Baggage is sometimes examined on arriving at Naples, by excise officers, but the formalities are slight. NAPLES. 371 Conveyances. — Hotel-omnibus, 1J1. ; public omni- bus, 20 c. Baggage, 20 c. a piece. 2-horse cab, 1 1. 40c. ; 1 -horse cab, 70 c. Small boats from steamship to shore, 1 1. for each person, with or without baggage. Pay no attention to extortionate demands, w’ith which boatmen usually begin. Beware of beggars, and people who offer their services. A rly. runs N. E. (124 M. ; 5-6 hrs.) from Naples across Italy, by Benevento to Foggia, on the Adriatic, connecting there with rly. to Brindisi and Taranto, on S., and Ancona and N. Italy. By this route it is 19-20 hrs. to Bologna. The rly. from Rome to Naples passes Velletri, an ancient Yolscian town (16,500 inhab.), with fine old Cathedral; Sgurgola , 4J M. from Anagni, a famous old papal town ; Ferentino stat., 3 M. from Ferentino, a venerable Hernician hill-town, with castle, Cathedral, and huge polygonal walls ; Frosinone stat., 2| M. from beautifully situated hill-town of Erosinone, and 9-10 M. from very curious old Alatri, with cyclopean walls; Ceprano stat., 2J M. from Ceprano, and the stat. for Palis of the Liris and Cicero’s Yilla ; Aquino , birth- place of Emperor Pescennius Niger, Juvenal, and Thomas Aquinas ; Cassino (or S. Germano ), a busy town, with Homan amphitheatre, Yarro’s Yilla, and tombs (a climb of \\ hr. leads to the world-renowned and magnificent Benedictine monastery of Monte Cassino, with hospitable monks and peerless views) ; Team , with a great castle and Homan remains ; Capua, a town of 14,000 inhab., in broad plain of Campania Eelice, with noble basilica, fortress, triumphal arch, and ancient chs. ; and S. Maria , on site of ancient Capua, with amphitheatre for 100,000 persons, and other Ro- man ruins. The rly. runs thence over the vast and populous plain of the Terra di Lavoro , to Naples. Naples is a city of 493,000 inhab., with little of architectural or antiquarian interest, but blest with a 372 NAPLES. — CHI A J A. superb situation, mild climate, and beautiful environs. It is built on the amphitheatrical slopes of hills, shelter- ing it from the N. wind, and nearly bisected by the abrupt ridge of S. Elmo and Pizzofalcone. Its view includes a semicircle of azure sea, the villages around the bay, and many picturesque hills. The busy and crowded Via Roma, still popularly called by its old name of Via Toledo, runs N. 1^ M. from Palazzo Beale, near the harbor. The vast and interesting National Museum (open daily, 9-3, 1 1., children, \ 1. ; no fees allowed ; free, Sun. and Thurs.), is in old Spanish cavalry-barracks (1586), occupied by Univer- sity, 16l5rT780. There is no good catalogue. See 1,600 ancient mural paintings, from Pompeii, etc. ; epigrapliic collection ; long range of rooms with Egyp- tian and Etruscan antiquities ; finest existing collection of ancient bronzes, including Dancing Eaun, Narcissus, Mercury, Sleeping Eaun, and bust of Seneca ; 18,000 small bronze objects from Pompeii, etc. ; immense collec- tions of ancient glass, terra-cotta, Cumsean antiquities, numismatic objects ; many marble and bronze statues, including Earnese Bull (restored by Michael Angelo), Earnese Hercules, Venus, Wounded Gladiator, Ocean, Flora, Nile, Farnese Juno, iEschines, Balbus ; famous mosaics of Battle of Issns and Triumph of Bacchus ; great collection of papyri MSS., from Herculaneum; 7 rooms full of Greek and Italian vases ; and gems, jewels, food, and silver plate from Pompeii. The Pic- ture Gallery has 800 paintings, Neapolitan, Tuscan, Bolognese, Homan, Venetian, German, and Flemish, including several by Baphael, Titian, and Correggio. The Library (open 8-2) has 200,000 vols., 4,000 MSS., and many valuable autographs. The Chiaja, seat of chief hotels for foreigners, is a narrow strip between the S. Elmo and Posilippo ridges NAPLES. 37a and the harbor, with pretty parks (music at evening) along waterside. On E., projecting into the sea, is the black and gloomy Castel dell’ Ovo (1154), often besieged, and now a prison. Thence Strada S. Lucia leads to Arsenal, through busy and interesting scenes. Overhead is hill of Pizzofalcone , over which one may pass, by the lion-guarded Victory Column of the martyrs for liberty, and the Miranda Palace , to the centre of the city. The Palazzo Reale (its porter gives permits to all the Neapolitan royal palaces) was built in 1600, by order of Philip III. of Spain, and rebuilt in 1837-41. It. is 554 ft. long, with grand staircase, throne-room, and many fine old paintings and carvings, and view of harbor from garden. Opposite, across handsome Piazza del Plebiscite) , is S. Francesco di Paola , a copy of Roman Pantheon, with 30 marble Corinthian columns support- ing dome, altar covered with jasper and lapis lazuli, and many modern pictures. Near by, see Palace of Prince of Salerno (now the Prefecture ), Foresteria Palace, and Canova's equestrian statues of the Bourbons, Charles III. and Ferdinaid I. Alongside Palazzo Reale is Theatre of S. Carlo (1737), one of the largest in the world. See public scribes in arcades ; and statues of Horse-Tamers, before palace-gardens. The great Cas- tel Nuovo, built by Charles of Anjou in 1283, and enlarged in 1442, 1546, and 1735, was the home of the Anjou and Aragon sovereigns, and the Spanish viceroys. See beautiful Triumphal Arch (147 0), armory,, and ch. of S. Sebastiano , with very famous picture. Close by, see Arsenal (1577) ; Porto Militare , with Italian iron-clads ; busy Porto Grande — the shipping harbor ; and Molo, a long breakwater, with battery and light-house (ascend this, for view). Across the square before Castle stands handsome Municipal Palace. 374 NAPLES. — UNIVERSITY. S. Giacomo degli Spagnuoli (1540) has splendid mausoleum of Spanish Viceroy, Don Pedro de Toledo. Near by is beautiful fountain, erected in 1695 by Duke of Medina Celi; also, Incoronata ch. (1352), with in- teresting Giottesque frescos ; and Palazzo Fondi , with picture-gallery. The Monte Oliveto Benedictine Monastery (1411), on Via di Roma , is now a market. Here Tasso dwelt in 1588. In ch. see many notable old tombs and pic- tures. In the rear, see S. Maria la Nuova (1268 ; restored in 1596), with famous frescos and tombs ; and Post-Office, in beautiful old Palazzo Gravina (1500). Farther along Via di Roma , see Palazzo Maddaloni (now a bank), with richly frescoed hall ; and Palazzo Angri { 1773), once Garibaldi’s headquarters. Strada S. Trinita leads to r. towards Gesu Nuova ch. (1584), with many frescos (opposite is refectory of S. Chiara , with Giot- tesque frescos) ; S. Chiara (1310), with burial-chapel of Bourbons, splendid monument of Bobert the Wise (1343), pulpit on 4 lions, and Madonna by Giotto ; lofty and imposing S. Domenico (1285), on a square between palaces, and containing 27 princely chapels, rich in Renaissance art, altar of Florentine mosaic, tombs of the Ai^gonese sovereigns, and of many nobles and prelates, banner and sword (and tomb) of Marquis of Pescara (Vittoria Colonna’s husband), and many pictures ; cell and lecture-room of Thomas Aquinas (1272) ; Chapel of S. Sever o (1590), crow’ded with decoration, and containing remarkable sculptures of Man in the Net and Christ in W r inding-Sheet ; SS. Angelo e Nilo (1385) ; University (1224), in old Jesuit Colle & e, with 5 faculties, and very good library (open 9-3) • S. Severino e Sosio , with notable tombs and frescos, and beautiful cloisters in rear (adja- cent Benedictine monastery has priceless archives of NAPLES. 375 Naples, 40,000 parchments, beginning a.d. 703) ; Pa- lazzo Santangelo (1466), with picture-gallery; Cas- tello Capuano (1231), once home of Hohenstaufen kings, and seat (after 1540) of Spanish and present law-courts ; and Capuan Gate (restored in 1535), a noble piece of architecture. The Cathedral, not far from the Gate, was built 1272-1314, on site of Temple of Neptune. It is a basilica, with shrine and tomb of St. Januarius, many frescos, and tombs of 2 popes, 2 kings of Hungary, etc. Adjacent is S. Resti- tuta , a basilica with Corinthian columns, and baptistery attributed to Constantine (a.d. 333) ; also, magnificent Chapel of Si. Januarius (1608), rich in gold and sil- ver, precious stones, and other adornments, and en- shrining the blood of the saint. 1^ M. beyond Capuan Gate are the great cemeteries, the New, with Doric ch. Gothic monastery, and 102 chapels ; the Old, with 365 closed vaults for the burial of the poor ; and the Prot- estant, with many English and American graves. Between Gastello Capuano and harbor, see SS. An - nunziata ; Porta Nolana ; the huge Gastello del Carmine (1484), now a barrack and prison ; S. Maria del Carmine , with tomb and noble statue of King Conradin; Piazza del Mercato (where Conradin was executed, in 1268), with 3 fountains ; Carmine Gate, with 2 massive towers ; and a very extensive quarter, with scores of narrow and sinuous streets, crowded with picturesque Neapolitans, macaroni-pedlers, story- tellers, fishermen, etc. S. Giovanni a Carhonara (1344), N. of Cathedral; has splendid mausoleum of King Ladislaus (1414). Farther N. are Botanical Gardens and vast Poor-House. Between Cathedral and Via di Roma, see S. Filippo Neri (1592), rich in paintings ; S. Paolo Maggiore (1691), in whose cloisters are many ancient Roman columns; S. Lorenzo (1266), with 376 CASTEL SANT’ ELMO. many frescos and fine cloisters (Petrarch and Boccaccio have been here) ; the Gothic S. Pietro a Maiella (1316), with monastery adjacent, now a school of music, where Bellini was taught, and Mercadante was director. Opposite Museum stands Ginnasio Vittorio Emanuele .(1757), with 26 statues, and a statue of Dante in front. Prom 8th-century ch. of S. Gennaro , enter the Cata- combs (fee, 11.), excavated by ancient Christians, and much broader and higher than those at Home. Myriads of dead have been buried here. Farther out is Capodimonte Palace (fee, 11.), built for the Bourbon kings (1738-1839), with long lines of state- rooms, many pictures, rich furniture, a large garden, and lovely views, f M. distant is the Observatory , on far- vie wing crest of Capodimonte. Castel Sant’ Elmo (1313), 876 ft. above the bay, is reached by a street from the Museum. It is a vast and ponderous fortress (now military prison) overlook- ing the city and sea. Close by is old Carthusian monastery of S. Martino (now part of National Mu- seum; open 9-5 ; 11.), built in 1325. See museum of majolica, ivories, etc. ; very beautiful cloisters, sur- rounded by white-marble columns, and adorned with statues ; and magnificent ch., lined with choice marbles and mosaics, and adorned with famous paintings. Exquisite views from this monastery. Excursions from Naples. — Beyond the Chiaja and Villa Nazionale, with their statues, temples, and aquarium, the Mergellina extends along the shore, under Posilippo, with beautiful sea-views, and by nu- merous villas, and the insulated 17th-century Palace of Donna Anna (now in ruins). Near the Chiaja stands ancient ch., in which is the great mausoleum of the poet Sannazaro. The road W. from the Chiaja leads through Grotta di Posilippo, a well-lighted tunnel m ITALY. 377 ♦ the rock, | M. long, 20-90 ft. high, 30 ft. wide, cut through by Augustus, and mentioned by Seneca. Over its E. end is so-called Tomb of Virgil 1.), a Roman tomb with recesses for urns. Petrarch and King Robert visited this spot, and planted laurel. Near by was Virgil’s villa, where he wrote the Eclogues and Georgies. Road through tunnel leads to Grotto of Sejanus (11.), a tunnel cut through the rocky ridge by Nerva (b.c. 37), and repaired by Honorius (a.d. 400). It is f M. long, and higher and wider than Posilippo tunnel. Near by, see many remains of villas of Lucul- lus, Pollio, and other Roman lords. Also, on islet of Nisida, site of villa where Cicero visited Brutus (b.c. 44), after he had killed Caesar; and afterwards of Queen Johanna II.’s villa (15th century). The Lake of Anagno (a crater; now drained) is f M. from Fuorigrotta (where see tomb of Leopardi, in cli.) ; and near by are singular ancient baths of sulphurous gas ; also, Grotto del Cane , famous for carbonic-acid, whose effects are tried on unhappy dogs. It is 6 M. from Naples over this road to Pozzuoli, on site of Greek colony conquered by Rome, and later chief port of Italy, and depot of Oriental trade. Here Sylla died ; Hadrian was buried ; St. Paul sojourned 7 days ; and Cicero had a villa. See remnants of Temples oj JSerapis (formerly very splendid), Neptune (pillars rising from sea), and the Nymphs ; many Roman tombs ; Piscina Grande , a great reservoir ; Capuchin monastery (1580) ; Roman quay , now called Bridge of Caligula ; Cathedral , with tomb of Pergolesi ; and Amphitheatre (Jl.), seating 30,000, where Nero gave gladiatorial combats before the King of Armenia, and St. Januarius was exposed to the lions. Near by, see Solfatara, a low crater with warm earth, hot alum springs, and many fissures whence gases rise (last eruption of lava 3 78 BAIA. — CUMiE. • in 1198) ; and Monte Nuovo , a volcanic hill (now vino* yards) thrown up in 1538. To the W. lies Lake Lucrinus , whence the Romans obtained their best oys fers, and the Neapolitans get choice fish. Lake Aver- nus, a picturesque crater-pond, 1J M. around, amid chestnut and orange groves, was held to be the entrance to the infernal regions, until Augustus made it a harbor by cutting a canal to the bay. The fabled entrance to Hades is shown in adjacent Grotto of the Sibyl (1 1.), a tunnel 840 ft. long. The Grotta della Pace, \ M. long, leads from W. shore towards Cumae, cutting through intervening ridge. The Baths of Nero are long rock-passages, containing Slot springs, in whose waters eggs may be cooked. Baia ( Regina ) was the most magnificent of summer- resorts in time of Cicero, Augustus, and Hadrian, and was praised by Horace. The Saracens destroyed it; and the Spanish viceroys built a castle and light-house dn the site. Here are massive ruins of temples of Venus, Diana, and Mercury, villas of Julius Caesar, Nero, and Hortensius, a splendid Roman reservoir, and other remnants of antiquity. To the S. is Cape Mi- aeno, near site of great Roman naval station of Misenum, and commanding a superb view. 1 M. from Baia is Lake of Fusaro, 1^ M. N. of which are ruins of great Cumae, which was founded by Greeks (b.c. 1050), and had profound influence in Italy, founding Naples, giving the Sibylline books to Rome, receiving the Tarquins, defeating the Etruscans, and finally con- quered by the Samnites and Romans. The Goths restored it, but the Moslems destroyed the town ; and 6 centuries ago the Neapolitans annihilated it, as a den of pirates. Near by, see Acropolis, with fortifications and noble views ; half-buried Amphitheatre ; fragments of old temples; and huge brick arch of drco Felice , 64 ft. high. VESUVIUS. — HERCULANEUM. 379 Pozzuoli, Baia, Cumse, etc., may be seen in 1 day by carriage (25 1. ; 1-horse carriage, 10-12 1.). Take guide from Naples (5 1.), to escape local annoyances. ° Mount Vesuvius is about 4,000 ft. high, and 30 M. around, isolated on the Plain of Campania, and with 80,000 people living in its chestnut valleys. In a.d. 79 it had a terrible volcanic eruption (described by Pliny and Tacitus), siuce which 60 or more have occurred, entailing vast losses of life and the annihi- lation of many villages and cities. Enormous losses were caused by the eruption of 1872. Of a crowd which watched its beginning, 20 persons were swept away and destroyed by the outbursting lava. The cable road now obviates much of the labor formerly neces- sary in ascent. Beautiful view from Observatory; and from summit you can see Naples, Baia, Ischia, Capri, the Campanian plain, the Apennines, and a vast area of sea. When Vesuvius is quiet the crater may be entered. Herculaneum, founded by Hercules, and later a town of Homan villas, was buried by an eruption of Vesuvius, a.d. 79, and discovered in 1719, when a well was being dug. Since then, excavations have shown that 40-90 ft. beneath the present town of Resina is a large and splendid ancient city, whose statues, mural paintings, papyri, etc., are adorning the mu- seums. It was richer than Pompeii, but is much more deeply buried, and under a more impenetrable covering. Little has yet been excavated, but that little should be seen (21. for guide and torch). The residences and shops excavated in 1868 are very interesting; the theatre, though immense in size, is too dark to be well seen. Pompeii ( Hotel Diomede') is nearly 1 hr. from Naples (5 trains daily; fares, 21. 75c., 11. 90c., 11. 10 c.), by riy. passing through Portici (12,000 380 POMPEII. mhab.) ; Resina, near La Fa < vorita, royal chateau, and at foot of Vesuvius; and Torre del Greco , swept by 4 streams of lava within 300 years. Beautiful views of bay and volcano. Bead about Pompeii before going there. Near Pompeii stat. is entrance to ruins (21.; guide furnished ; no gratuity ; stay as long as you like). Pompeii was a Greek commercial city (b.c. 400 - 500 ), which was subjugated by Borne, and became a favorite resort of her nobles and emperors (with 25,000 inhab.). It was overthrown by earthquake, a.d. 63 ; rebuilt immediately; and in 79 buried under 20 ft. of ashes from Vesuvius, when 2,000 citizens lost their lives. Excavations were begun in 1748 , and are slid going on. The walls are 1J M. around, with 8 gates. The streets are 14-24 ft. wide, paved with deeply rutted lava blocks, with stepping-stones and fountains at cor- ners. The concrete or brick lower stories of houses remain; the other stories were burnt. The shops, taverns, homes, street-notices, etc., are very interesting. Note Temple of Venus ; Forum , where main streets converged, with Temple of Jupiter , Prison, Basilica , Triumphal Arch, Public Granary, Temple of Mercury, beautiful Chalcidicum, Town Hall, Temple of Augustus. See House of Wild Boar in Street of Abundance ; Triangular Forum ; the two Theatres ; barracks of the soldiers; House of Sculptor; Stabire Gate ; Temple of Isis ; House of Holconius ; vast amphitheatre, wdiich seated 20 , 000 . Thence visit Stabian Thermce, Balcony House, Houses of Siricus and Marcus Lucretius, of the Chase, of Ariadne, of Grand Duke of Tuscany, of Figured Capitals, of Black Walls ; Temple of Fortune; Public Baths ; House of Faun, in Fortune street ; House of Anchor, of Tragic Poet (which Bulwer describes in Last Days of Pompeii) ; the Fuller s Shop; Great and Little Fountains; House of Pansa, of Labyrinth , of CASERTA. — SORRENTO. 381 Castor and Pollux , of Centaur , of Meleager , Adonis, Apollo ; Academy of Music ; Bake-house ; Soap-shop; Barber's Shop ; Custom House ; Street of Tombs ; and Villa of Diomedes (where several bodies were found), beyond Herculaneum Gate. There are many curiosities in the museums, especially casts of the bodies found in the ruins. You may ride hence on horseback (1-| hrs.) to cairn of stones on Vesuvius ; whence climb (1 hr. on foot) to summit (guide and horse, 101.). Caserta {Vittorio), about 20 M. from Naples, on rly. to Home, has a magnificent Royal Palace (1752), 831 ft. long and wide, and 131 high, with colonnaded courts, famous gardens and cascades, beautiful views, and sumptuous apartments. See chapel, highly en- riched with lapis lazuli and gold ; and theatre, with 16 antique Corinthian columns of African marble. No one should leave Naples without having visited Sorrento, Amalfi, and Salerno. Hly. in 1 hr. (3 1. 10 c., 21. 15c., 11. 25 c.), along shore of bay, to Castella- mare {Hotel Royal ; Anglais ), a famous Neapolitan summer-resort and Italian naval station (33,000 inhab.), near overwhelmed ruins of Stabise, and with 13th-cen- tury castle, royal chateau of Quisisana (on the hill), and Monte S. Angelo, 5,000 ft. high, with superb view (guide and donkey, 51.). Here also are famous sul- phurous and ferruginous springs. An excellent road (7^ M. ; carriage, 5 1.) between the mts. and Bay, leads hence, by Vico and Meta, and a delicious paradise of orange and olive groves, to Sorrento ( Gran Bretagna ; D 1 Angleterre ; Tasso, where Tasso was born, 1544; Sirena ; Villa Nardi; Tramontano), an ancient seaport on Bay of Naples, famous for exquisite scenery, and delightfully cool summer-climate (it faces N.). Quaint villages, ancient clis., natwl curiosities, villas and convents, glens and myrtle-groves, rocky islets and 382 CAPRI. ISCHIA. points, make this region very charming. Steamboats leave Naples (S. Lucia) at 9 a.m., daily, for Sorrento (61.; return-tickets, 101.), Capri (81.; return, 121.), and Ischia. Boat from Sorrento to Capri, 5 L, in 2 hrs. (bad trip in rough weather). Capri ( Tiberio and Quisisana , both kept by English people ; PsLgmt^r at landing place), the “ Island of Goats,” is M. long, with almost unbroken lines of cliffs, and far-viewing mts. 2,000 ft. high. There are 4,500 inhab., mostly farmers and coral-fishers. Au- gustus and Tiberius built many villas and palaces here. In 1803 Capri was strongly fortified by the English ; but Murat captured it, 5 years later. On E. see ruins of Villa of Tiberius, and the cliff, 700 ft. high, called Salto di Tiberio , whence the cruel Emperor forced his victims to leap into the sea. Near by is an inn. See Natural Arch ; Grotto of Mithras; lofty village of Anacapri, with Barbarossa’s castle ; and Monte Solar o, with superb view. The most celebrated of the caverns is the Blue Grotto, 106 by 80 ft. in area, and 40 ft. high, partly filled by beautifully azure sea-water, and lighted and entered only by a low and narrow aperture, where the sea beats against the cliff (boat, 2 1. for 2 persons ; 1 1. for each additional). The White, Red, Green, and Stalactite Grottos are also visited by boat. Ischia is a fertile island 15 M. around, with 25,000 inhab., devoted to vineyards and fisheries, with delight- ful summer-climate, castle of Alfonso I. of Aragon, lovely village of Casamicciola (damaged in 1883 by earthquake), and grand view from top of quiescent vol- cano of Epomeo. Iscliia has been ravaged by Romans, Saracens, Pisans, Neapolitans, and Erench ; and was the home of Vittoria Colonna and Maria of Aragon. Boat from Naples in 2 hrs. (fares, 51., 3^1.). Pro- SALERNO. — PJESTUM. — AMALFI. 383 cida is a neighboring volcanic island, 3 M. long, with 14,000 inliab., originally settled, like Capri and Ischia, bv Greeks. Salerno (Vittorio ; I)' Angleterre) is a picturesque old provincial capital (22,000 inliab.), 33J M. from Naples (rly. fares, 61. 15 c., 4J 1., 21. 45 c.), fronting on a magnificent bay, with fine quay, 1| M. long, irregular mediaeval streets, ancient Lombard castle, and delightfully quaint old Cathedral (1084), with many antique columns, sarcophagi, and mosaics, and tombs of St. Matthew, Pope Gregory the Great, Mar- garet of Anjou, etc. The University was very cele- brated in Middle Ages (see Longfellow’s Golden Legend ). Paestum, 23 M. from Salerno, by railway over dull shore-plains, founded by Greeks, B.c. 600, and destroyed by Saracens, is a collection of the finest Greek ruins in existence (out of Athens), including Temple of Neptune , 189 by 84 ft., with 52 fluted Doric columns ; Temple of Ceres , 105 by 45 ft., with 34 fluted columns ; and Basilica , 177 by 80 ft., with 60 columns ; well-preserved travertine town-walls, 3 M. around ; amphitheatre, Roman temple, street of Greek tombs. Psestum is now free from brigands. Amalfi (Dei Cappuccini ; Luna ), a lovely village ('7,000 inhab.), where a great mt. -gorge opens on the Gulf of Salerno, was once a flourishing commercial republic, rivalling Genoa and Pisa, but yielded to armies of Naples in 1131. Near the Marina quay is the 11th- century Cathedral, with campanile and cloisters, rich mosaics and Byzantine bronze doors, and tomb of St. Andrew. Above is Capuchin Monastery (1212), 400 ft. above sea, with handsome cloisters and superb views. 1J hr.’s climb leads to Ravello(once 30,000 inhab., now 1,500), with magnificent 11th-century cathedral and Rufalo Palace (here Pope Adrian IV. and Robert the 384 SICILY. — MESSINA. ' Wise lived), both in rich Saracenic architecture, and other notable chs. Amalfi may be readied from Sorrento, by boat and path, in 5 hrs. It is better to go there from Salerno (1^-2 hrs.; 1-horse carriage, 5-6 1.), over one of the noblest roads in the world, through 6 villages, amid vineyards and orange and lemon groves, by Charles V.’s anti- Saracenic watch-towers, with wonderful sea-views from the lofty galleries and cliffs along its course. Sicily. This beautiful island may be conveniently visited from Naples, w T hence steamships run, several times weekly, to Palermo and Messina (15-22 hrs. ; fares, 40 1. 60 c., 24 1. 60 c., to either port), passing Capri, Stromboli, and the Lipari Isles. Travellers can avoid sea-trip by uncomfortable 26 hrs. (436 M.) rly. ride from Naples through Salerno ; Eboli ; Cosenza (Alaric’s grave), with 18,000 inhab.; Tiriolo ; lofty Monteleone , with 10,000 inhab. ; Mileto , whence Sicilian mts. are seen ; Palmi ; and Scilla , where 1,500 persons were killed by earthquake of 1783 (and near Homer’s Scylla); to Reggio, a very beautiful city of 16,000 inhab. Ferry hence to Messina in f hr. (} 1.). French steamers run from Marseilles to Palermo in 50 hrs. Italian boats from Genoa to Palermo in 33 hrs. Steamers run around Sicily weekly, from Paler- mo, touching at chief ports. Messina (ifeteZ Bellevue ; Vittoria ; Venezia ; Trinacria , English spoken), the chief commercial town of Sicily (126,000 inhab.), has a magnificent situation on an amphi theatrical slope, over a secure and well-for- tified harbor. It was founded by the Greeks, b. c. 732; conquered by Samos, Athens (b. c. 427), Carthage SICILY. — CATANIA. 385 (396 and 270), Mamertines, Rome, Saracens, Normans, English (Coeur de Lion), Spaniards, French, and Ital- ians ; and often ravaged by fire, plague, and earthquake. These evil days have left it but few antiquities. The Norman Cathedral (1098) has 26 antique columns, mosaics, royal tombs, and sarcophagi ; and in front is splendid Montorsoli Fountain (1617-51). See Nor- man S. Maria dei Catalani, on site of Temple of Nep- tune and Moslem mosque ; University , with library and picture-gallery (open 9-1 ; \ 1.) ; S. Stefano , with tombs of Frenchmen killed at Sicilian Vespers ; hand- some and well-kept business streets ; and ancient for- tresses (1510) on heights, with beautiful views. From Messina a brief trip may be made to Athens, French steamers weekly in 18 hrs. My. hence in 3 hrs. (60 M. ; fares, 10} 1., 7 1. 55 c., 5 1. 10 c.) ; by Taormina ( Giardini stat.), with grand ruins of a Greek theatre (whence famous view), acropolis and castle, and ducal palace; across lava fields of JEtna ; and by Aci-Reale , scene of adventures of Polyphemus, and Acis and Galatea; to Catania {Catania; Alter go Centrale; Oriental; Du Globe), the handsomest and most cultured city in Sicily (85,000 inliab.). by the seaside, at foot of iEtna, and rich in palaces and villas, embowered in groves of orange. It was founded by Greeks, b. c. 730 ; and conquered by Athens, Carthage, Rome, the Goths, Byzantines, Saracens, Germans, and Spaniards. See Cathedral (1091), with tombs of 6 Aragonese sover- eigns, and of St. Agatha ; 8. Carcere , with relics ; cloisters and gardens, museum, library of suppressed Benedictine Monastery of S. Nicola , than which there was but one more splendid in the world (all its monks were of noble blood) ; underground remains of Grceco- Roman Theatre and Odeum (fee, 2 1.); Roman Baths 25 386 MOUNT iETNA. — SYRACUSE. and Amphitheatre ; Roman Tombs ; University (1444), 500 students ; and public gardens of Villa Bellini , with- Italian statues. Mount iEtna (10,835 ft. high) may be ascended lienee, by carriage (2J hrs.), to Nicolosi (20-25 1. there and back) ; whence 8 hrs. by lodge of Casa Inglese to summit (guide, 10 1. ; mule, 10 1.) ; return from top to Catania, 8-9 hrs. It is best to sleep at Casa Inglese (at base of cone of crater), and reach summit before sunrise. There have been over 80 re- corded eruptions, one of which (1693) destroyed 80,000 lives. In 1886 the last occurred. The view includes all Sicily and surrounding seas, Calabria, Lipari Isles, and Malta. Rly. from Catania (54 M. ; 91. 85 c., 6 1. 90 c., 41. 95c.) to Syracuse ( Vittoria ; Sole ; Politi), once the most important city in the Greek world, which is now a quiet modem port (2°, 600 inhab.), with very charming envi- rons, a noble harbor, narrow and crooked streets, and beautiful women who wear picturesque costumes. It was founded by Corinthians, b.c. 734 ; defeated the Carthaginians and Etruscans ; repulsed the besieging Athenian fleet and army (b.c. 414-13), with terrible losses ; beat off frequent attacks from Carthage ; entertained iEschylus, Pindar, Simonides, etc. ; and was defended by Archimedes against the Romans (b.c. 214-12), but fell and was nearly annihilated. Paul and Mercian preached here. It has since been ravaged by Franks, Byzantines, Normans, and Spaniards ; and has never recovered from the Moslem destruction in 878. The inhabitants still preserve the Greek type. See Cathe- dral ', on site of Temple of Minerva, with remarkable font and leaning pillars; Museum (open 9-1, 3-5), with fine Greek Venus, and other antiquities ; Foun- tain of Arethusa y famed in Greek mythology, and still PALERMO. 387 surrounded by papyrus plants ; ruins of Temple of Diana; Castle ; and Montalto Palace. On mainland near by, see scanty remains of ancient Syracuse : Amphitheatre ; Latomire , or quarries once worked by slaves ; grotto called Ear of Dionysius ; Greek Theatre (480-406 B.c.) ; fountain of Cyane , amid growing papyri ; fragments of Temple of Zeus Olympius ; etc. Weekly steamers hence to Malta in 8 hrs. Palermo ( Hotel de France ; Trinacria ; Des Palmes; Centrale ), the capital of Sicily (245,000 inhab.), is very beautifully situated between Mt. Pellegrino and Cape ZafFarana, facing the sea, and has mild winters and intensely hot summers. It was settled from Phoenicia, strengthened from Greece, fortified by Carthage, cap- tured by Rome, and governed in succession by the Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Germans, French, and English. On the beautiful Marina and La Flora prome- nades the Sicilian people of fashion congregate. The Cathedral (1169-85) is a great and imposing ch., with tombs of the Sicilian kings, and of Emperor Fred- erick II. ; immense silver sarcophagus containing remains of St. Rosalia ; many statues and carved choir- stalls ; and crypt, with tombs of ancient archbishops. La Martorana ch. (12th century) has curious old Greek mosaics, Corinthian columns, and a tall campanile. See also S. Cataldo (1161), a Sicilian-Norman ch. ; S. Giovanni degli Eremiti , in form of letter T, with 5 domes, and cloisters ; gorgeously ornamented Jesuits' ch. ; Norman S. Francesco d' Assisi ; and S. Domenico (1640), which can hold 12,000 persons. The Museum (open 10-3 ; 11.) contains many Sicilian-Greek statues and sarcophagi, Pompeian antiquities, and a picture- gallery, mainly composed of paintings by old Sicilian masters. The Royal Palace is Saracenic, with notable apartments added by King Roger, Robert Guiscard, 388 PALERMO. — MONREALE. Manfred, and Emperor Frederick II. Here also is magnificent Cappella Palatma (1132), the finest castle- chapel in the world, a basilica with Egyptian-granite columns, Saracenic arches, mosaics on gold, and many Arabian inscriptions. Superb view from Observatory . The great cloisters of the Spedale Grande (1330) are covered with frescos. Note Gothic windows of Ar chi- episcopal Palace ; large Municipal Palace ; University ; National Library (open 9-2) ; spacious and arcaded Paterno Palace ; Palace of the Tribunals (1307), long the home of the Inquisition; Ganzia Monastery ; rich Botanical Garden; and Porta Nuova , triumphal arch for Charles Y.’s solemn entry after his victory at Tunis. Monreale, 5 M. out, beyond Palace of Due d’ An- male, elegant old Saracenic palace of Cubola , Capuchin Monastery where Palermitan patricians are kept em- balmed, and rich gardens of Villa Tasca , is a large town which has risen around the Cathedral, founded by William II. in 1170. It is 333 X 132 ft. in area, with superb entrance ; bronze doors (1186) ; Saracenic arches ; cloisters supported on 216 columns ; and over 60,000 square ft. of magnificent mosaics, scriptural and historical. Monreale is 1231 ft. above the sea, and commands famous views. More than 1,200 ft. above is venerable Benedictine Monastery of S. Martino, with library, museum, and views. The celebrated Monte Pellegrino can be ascended in 2 hrs. See shrine and grotto of St. Bosalia, and immense sea- view. La Favorita is a splendid royal villa, beyond the so-called English Garden. Nearly 3 M. out is S. Maria di Gesu, a large suppressed monastery, with favorite view of Palermo. Ancient Saracenic villas and chateaux of modern Sicilian nobles abound in the environs. Erom Palermo it is 96 M. by rly. (15J1., 10 1. 70 c.. 71. 65 c.) to GIRGENTI. — CIYITA VECCHIA. 389 Girgenti (Hotel Centrale ; Des Temples), chief town on S. coast of Sicily (21,000 inhab.). On mt. near by are ruins of Acragas ( Agrigentum ), which Pindar called “the most beautiful city of mortals. 55 It was founded by Cretans ; had 200,000 inhab., and vast wealth ; was destroyed by Carthage ; and became a Roman colony. Here are fairly preserved ruins of Temples of Juno (with 31 columns), Hercules (38 columns), Concord (31 columns), Zeus (37 huge columns), and others ; and walls, gates, cloacae, catacombs, tombs, etc., in great numbers. Leghorn, Pisa, Lucca, Genoa, Monaco. Tourists who have reached Naples by rly. had best return N. by sea. The Fraissinet steamships leave Naples twice weekly for Civita Vfecchia, Leghorn, Genoa, and Marseilles. Civita Vecchia ( Orlando ; Europa) is a fortified port of 7,000 inhab., founded by Trajan, and destroyed bv Saracens (in 828). Fortress built after plans by Michael Angelo. Rly. across Maremma to Leghorn, Rly. to Rome, 50J M., in 2 hrs. (fares, 9 1. 20 c., 6 1. 40 c.* 4 1. 60 c.). Time of voyage from Naples, 12-14 hrs. A voyage of 12 hrs., by Elba, leads hence to Leg- horn (Anglo-American Hotel ; Grand Hotel ; Giap- pone ; Du Nord ; Falcone e Patria), one of the chief Mediterranean ports (over 100,000 inhab.), fortified, well-built, and modern. It was founded by the Medici family, as a refuge for the oppressed. See English Cemetery , with Smollett’s tomb ; fine statues of 3 Tuscan, Grand-Dukes; venerated sailors 5 eh. on Monte Nero ; piers and quays, with busy and chattering crowds ; and handsome squares and Corso. Rly. to Pisa, 12 M. (21.5 c., 11. 40 c„ 11.). 390 PISA. Pisa {Hotel Royal Vittoria; Cervia; Europa ; Gran Bretagna; Roma; Minerva ; Washington; De la Ville) is a quiet and beautiful town (50,000 inhab.) near the mouth of the Arno, and 50 M. from Florence (fares, 3 1. 80 c., 6 1. 20 c.). It was conquered by Rome, B.c. 180 ; adorned with temples by Augustus and Ha- drian; became a rival of Venice and Genoa in Middle Ages ; defeated the Saracens in many naval battles ; became anti-Papal, and was defeated by Genoa ; and since 1106 has been subject to Florence. It is very hot in summer, but the mildness of its winters attracts many Northern visitors to the quaint and sombre old town. It is surrounded by picturesque walls ; and has 3 bridges, and a fine quay along the Arno, on and near which you may see, on N. side, many palaces and chs., including 13th-century B. Michele ; University (1493), with Renaissance court (statue of Galileo) and valuable library ; Alla Giornata , Vitelli and Royal Palaces ; B. Niccolo (1000), once Benedictine, with statue of Fer- dinand I. in front ; and Guelphic fortress, near Ponte a Mare . On S. shore, 12th-century B. Paolo , with handsome old fapade ; Benedictine monastery ; Gam- bacorti Palace , now custom-house ; B. Maria della Bpina (1230), a beautiful marble Gothic chapel, with fragment of Crown of Thorns ; round B. Bepolcro; and the Fortress. Back from the river, on N., see B. Fran- cesco (1300), with campanile ; Botanical Garden and Natural-History Museum ; S. Bis to (1089) ; and Piazza dei Cavalieri , the old Republican forum. Here stand Palazzo de' Cavalieri , with statues, and B. Btefano (1565), ch. of Knights of Sk Stephen, with Turkish trophies and notable paintings. The adjacent Acad- emy of Fine Arts (open 9-2) was founded by Napo- leon I., and contains many good Pisan and Florentine paintings. Lord Byron lived a long time in Palazzo PISA. 391 Lanfranchi . S. Caterina (1253) has interesting pictures, and stands in a pleasant square, near tlie old Roman baths and the Lucca Gate . In the remote N. W. corner of Pisa is a wonderful group of mediaeval buildings, nearly surrounded by gardens and the wall. The Cathedral, 311 X 106 ft. in area, and 109 ft. high in the nave, was founded in 1063, to commemorate defeat of Moslems at Palermo,, and consecrated by Pope Gelasius II. in 1118. It is in magnificent Tuscan-Gothic architecture, of white and colored marbles, with remarkable fapade of columns and arches, double aisles, and dome lined with Cimabue’s mosaics. Inside are 65 antique columns (trophies of Pisan conquests), a splendidly gilded ceiling, bronze doors designed by John of Bologna, 12 altars designed by Michael Angelo, carved pulpit by Niccolo Pisano, altars enriched with silver and lapis lazuli, many rare pictures, and swinging bronze lamp from which Galileo got the idea of the pendulum. In front is the finest Baptistery in the world. It is round (100 ft. in diameter, and 190 ft. high) ; in lloman-Tuscan (1153-1278) and Gothic styles; of marble ; and surrounded with ancient columns. Inside, see six-sided pulpit on 7 columns, with 6 reliefs by Niccolo Pisano, and handsome font. The Leaning Tower (1171-1350), or Campanile y behind Cathedral, is 179 ft. high, in 8 stories, sur- rounded by colonnades, and containing 7 bells. It is 11 ft. out of the perpendicular. Grand view from top, of the Apennines, the coast, Elba, and Corsica. The Campo Santo (open daily; 25c.) is an enclos- ure filled with scores of shiploads of sacred earth from Mt. Calvary, and consecrated to burial of great men. The cloistered hall which surrounds it was built 1278-83, by John of Pisa, and is 121 ft. long and 115 m LUCCA. — CARRARA. :t. broad, with 62 beautiful windows opening on ^he verdant court within. The walls are decorated with wonderful and curious 14th-century frescos of early Bible history and the Triumph of Death, some of which are attributed to Giotto and Orcagna. There are many splendid monuments in these corridors, to Emperor Henry YII., Gregory XIII., Catalani, etc.; and sculp- tures by Mino da Eiesole, John of Pisa, Luca della Robbia, Dupre, and Thorwaldsen. Excursions from Pisa. — To summer-resort of Baths of Gombo, near which Shelley was drowned. To La Certosa, a Carthusian monastery, 6 M. out, on the Pisan Mts. To Basilica of S. Pietro in Grado (a.d. 1000), 3 M. out, where St. Peter landed in Italy. Rly. in 13 M. to Lucca ( TJ nicer so ; Corona ; Croce di Malta), a beauti- ful old walled city (64,000 mliab.), on a rich plain, and embowered in groves. A splendid Roman municipium, it afterwards became Gothic, Lombard, Frankish, ducal, republican, Pisan, and Tuscan; and was home of Dante, and principality of Napoleon’s sister. See sumptuous Romanesque Cathedral (1060-70), very rich in art; 7th-century Basilica of S. Frediano , built by Lombard kings, with rare old pictures ; chs. of S. Giovanni , S. Romano , S. Francesco , and S. Michele , and old palaces ; and walk around fine old ramparts. The Baths of Lucca ( Hotel de V Europe Di Londra ; New York; Pavilion; Queen Victoria ), 12 M. N., among the Apennines, are a collection of 19 sulphu- retted ferruginous springs. This has been a famous health-resort for centuries. Pisa to Genoa, by rly., 102^ M. (fares, 18 1. 15 c., 131. 60 c., 101.). Sea-passage, Leghorn to Genoa, 9 hrs. The rly. lies between Apennines and sea, passing Carrara, a beautiful town of 23,000 inhab. SPEZIA. — GENOA. 393 (mostly sculptors and marble- workers), embowered in groves of chestnut, olive, orange, and lemon trees, and 2 lirs. from great marble-quarries, where 6,000 men are employed. La Spezia (Gran Bretagna; Groce di Mal- ta; Italia ; Roma) is the chief Italian naval port, strongly fortified and well equipped (24,000 inhab.), and was commended by Strabo as one of the vastest and best ports in the world. Many visitors come in summer for the sea-baths; and in winter, for the mild climate. Pleasant trip to Porto Venere (1| hr.). The rly. goes on, by Sestri Levante and Lavagna, along shore of Mediterranean, with charming views, and through many tunnels. Genoa ( Hotel Isotta ; Trombetta ; Be la Ville ; D’ Italic et Croix de Malte ; Be France; Bu Parc; Des Etr angers ; Concordia , restaurant), called by its citizens La Superba , has 180,000 inhab., and is Italy’s chief commercial town. It was founded by Ligurians ; became Roman ; enriched itself in Crusades ; conquered great Levantine domains ; fought many wars with Venice, Pisa, and Lie Moslems; was torn for centuries by Guelph-Ghibelline civil wars ; maintained itself as a republic from 10th century to T9th ; was annexed to Prance in 1800 ; and in 1815 became Sardinian. It has more imposing marble palaces than any other city ; but the streets are narrow, steep, and crooked. It presents a vast hemicyele of buildings, ranged along the hills like seats in an amphitheatre, with bold wooded heights above. ‘Ramparts, 7 M. long, defend the city; and an outer line, 20 M. long, with towers and intrenchments, traverses the hills beyond. The Harbor is sheltered by 2 long piers with light-houses ; and separated from the town by a high arcaded wall, by which fishermen and sailors take their ease. At end near the chief hotels, there is a marble terrace 1,500 ft 394 GENOA. long and 45 ft. wide, affording pleasant view of harbor. Near by is handsome 16th-century Exchange, with statue of Cavour. The Custom House contains many statues of Genoese worthies in its main hall. Splendid view of city, sea, and Riviera from dome of iS. Maria di Carignano , on high hill to S. E. The Cathedral (1100) is of alternate bands of black and white marbles, with 16 Corinthian columns, sumptuous chapels, rare paintings, many statues, and the Holy Grail. Near by, on Piazza Nuova , see white- marble town-hall, with statues (once Ducal Palace) • and 16th-century Jesuits’ ch. of S. Ambrogio, with pic- tures by Guido and Rubens. Near by are S. Matteo (1278), with many sculptures and inscriptions of Doria family ; Academy of Fine Arts , with pictures and statu- ary ; 12th-century Gothic ch. of S. Stefano, with famous picture by Giulio Romano ; and Pallavicini and Spinola Palaces. The modern Via Balbi and Via Nuova are streets of superb palaces, many of which have beautiful courtyards and staircases. Of these, notice 16th-cen- tury Municipio , with mosaic portraits of Columbus and Marco Polo (and letters of former) in council hall; Brignole-Sale , with 8 rooms full of old paintings (fee, 1 1.) ; Adorno (1500), with valuable pictures. Most of the Genoese palaces were built by (or in manner of) Alessi, a pupil of Michael Angelo. The cruciform Capuchin ch. of SS. Annunziata (1587), with fluted red- marble columns and frescoed dome, is very rich. Hence the Via Balbi , a broad modern street of palaces, leads to rly. stat., passing handsome old Palazzo Burazzo ; University (1622), with museums, library (60,000 vols.), and the finest courtyard and staircase in Genoa ; Pa- lazzo Balbi, with large picture-gallery (fee, 11.); Palazzo Burazzo and Royal Palace (open daily), with richly furnished hails, throne-room, and many pictures. SAVONA. — SAN REMO. 395 In square by rly. stat., see fine monument to Columbus (1862), with several allegorical statues and reliefs. Beyond is Palace of Doria Princes. , presented to An- drea Doria, “The Father of his Country,” in 1522, with splendidly frescoed halls, gardens, arcades, and statues. Excursions from Genoa. — Villa Pallavicini (get permission at Durazzo Palace ; open 2-3 p.m. ; fee, 1-21.), with luxuriant park and gardens, magnificent views, grottos, kiosques, fountains, etc. (at Pegli stat., 7\ M. ; Jhr. by rly. ; fares, 1 1. 15 c., 80 c.). Campo Santo, 1| M. out, new and interesting. The famousCor niche road leads along the Riviera di Ponente from Genoa to Nice (12 8 1 M.), through some of the finest coast and hill scenery in the world. Steamboats from Genoa to Nice, in 8-9 hrs., nearly every day. Rly. from Genoa to Nice in 7-9 hrs, (116 M. ; fares, 211. 5 c., 141. 90 c., 101. 65 c.), by slow and not very comfortable trains. The journey should be by day, as the route follows the Mediterranean coast through a succession of beautiful and historic towns and villages. Take seat on r. as far as Savona ; beyond which the best views are on the 1. The line traverses many tun- nels, through rocky promontories. Savona {Pension Suisse ; Italia ; Roma) is an ancient city (26,000 inhab.), whose fine harbor Genoa caused to be filled up, after conquering the town. Sixtus IV. and Julius II. were born here. See Cathe- dral (1604) ; S. Domenico , with triptych by Durer ; colossal statue of Virgin on tower by harbor. Rly. hence to Turin. San Remo {Hotel Victoria; D'Angleterre ; Grande Bretagne ; Royal ; De Londres ; West End ; Bellevue; De la Paix. Banker, Rubino) is a town of 15,000 396 BORDIGHERA. inhab., on hill-slopes covered with vineyards and groves of orange, lemon, olive, pomegranate, and palm trees. The climate is very mild, and attracts many English, American, German, and Russian families in winter. The town is a densely populated group of fortress-like mediaeval houses, with picturesque labyrinths of deep and narrow lanes. See very ancient Cathedral ; lovely view from Assumption ck. ; ruined Borea Palace ; and hermitage of S. Rornolo . Bordighera (Hotel cV Angleterre ; West End Hotel ; Windsor) has a beautiful site, on a hill of palm-trees, projecting into sea, with picturesque streets and houses. It was once capital of a republic. Ruffini laid the scene of his Dr. Antonio hereabouts. Climate is ex- ceptionally soft in winter, with bracing quality ; and is delightful in spring and fall. Many Americans come here. See villa of Gamier, architect of Paris Opera- House; and palm-garden of Moreno. Vintimiglia (poor bulfet at stat.) is the frontier-town, where baggage is examined and travellers change cars. Be sure that jour baggage is put back on train. MENTONE. — MONACO. 397 SOUTHERN FRANCE. Mentone, Nice, Cannes, Marseilles. M ENTONE (Grand Hotel de Menton; Victoria; National; Du Parc; Pension des Or anger s ; Isles Britanniques ; Des Ambassadeurs ; Du Louvre ; Des Anglais; De la Paix; Bellevue; Grande Bretagne ; Hotel Garavan ; Hotel Beaurivage). The old town keeps its feudal aspect, with narrow and winding streets, on a promontory dividing the bay. The new town is on a long street, parallel with the hill. See grand view from ruins of Castle (1402) ; St. Julian Gate ; Palazzo; and Public Garden. Climate more equable than at Nice or Cannes, and very tonic ; and availed of by very many people with lung or bronchial troubles. Beautiful excursions in vicinity. Cor- niche road hence to Nice (18f M. ; 3-4 hrs.) through most exquisite coast scenery. Near Monte Carlo stat. is famous Casino of Mo- naco (Hotel de Paris , with good restaurant ; Metro- pole ; De Russie), with magnificent palace for con- certs, decorated theatre, very elaborate gardens, and Gaming Establishment. Great numbers of fashiona- bles here, from December to May. Monaco (Pension Villa Lesseps; Hotel de la Paix), the capital of a Lilliputian principality, under French protection, stands on a bold rock nearly sur- rounded by the sea. The ancient Palace of the Princes (open daily; small fee) has sumptuous rooms and good frescos. Bathing establishments at foot of rock, and new hotels. Pleasant promenades, mild winter cli- mate, and sea bathing in summer. Between Monaco 398 NICE. — CANNES. and Nice is Villafranca, winter headquarters of American navy in European waters. Nice ( Hotel de Nice ; Terminus ; Grande Bretagne ; Des Anglais; Du Luxembourg; De la Mediterranee ; De France; Grand ; Paradis) a handsome and well- built city (70,000 inhab.), with an Italian aspect, is the chief of the fashionable winter-resorts on the Mediter- ranean coast, and has an extremely soft and agreeable climate, and lovely environs. England and Germany, Russia and America, send many invalids here. The brilliant winters are succeeded by very dull summers. It was originally a Greek colony ; then Proven 9 a!, Savoyard, Sardinian, and Erench. Massena was bom in house No. 21 Quai St. Jean Baptiste; Garibaldi, at No. 4 Rue Cassini. Paganini died at No. 14 Rue de la Prefecture ; Halevy, at No. 5 Rue de Prance. The world-renowned Promenade des Anglais extends along the bay for 1J M., bordered by beautiful villas and public establishments. See Place Massena , with bronze statue of Massena ; Jar din Publique , with palm groves and good band-music ; Place des Phociens , and antique Greek fountain • remains of Castle , on hill of palm and orange groves, with magnificent view over sea and mts.; old and new Hotels de Ville ; Palace of Prefecture ; ancient Lascaris Palace ; Natural-History Museum ; Public Library ; and Marble Cross. Many charming excursions to Villafranca , Month or on, Cha- teau Neuf St. Pons , Cimies, etc. (consult hotel-porters, most of whom speak English). It is 6 hrs. hence, by express (26 fr. 70 c., 20fr. 75 c., 15 fr. 20 c.), to Marseilles. Cannes ( Hotel Splendide , Des Princes , Du Midi , in the town ; Gray and Albion , Gonnet , De la Plage , De Calif ornie, Pension Suisse , in E. quarter ; Beau Sejour , Provence , Paradis , Richemont , on the hills ; Beau Site , TOULON. — MARSEILLES. 399 Bellevue , in W. quarter) is one of the most popular and attractive Mediterranean winter-resorts, sheltered from the winds, and frequented bj people whose lungs are delicate. The English and Russians monopolize it, and the latter have many handsome villas in the vicinity. Magnificent sea-views, including the lies de Levins , where, on He S. Marguerite , the Man with the Iron Mask was imprisoned (1687-98), and Marshal Bazaine escaped (1874). On lie S. Honorat , ruins of one of the most famous mediaeval monasteries. Near Cannes is Antibes, a very picturesque old coast town, sur- rounded by walls and defended by a fort ; and Golfe Jouan , where Napoleon landed from Elba. The Marseilles rly. goes on to Frfcjus, with ruins of Roman theatre, amphitheatre, Gilded Gate, and aque- duct (25 M. long). From La Pauline stat. branch rly. to Hyeres, a favorite health-resort in winter, with picturesque rocky islets off-shore and lofty mts. behind. Toulon ( Grand Hotel ; Victoria; DelaPaix ; Du JVord) is the chief French naval station (77,000 inhab.) on the Mediterranean, on a deep double harbor, sheltered by Cape Sepet, and defended by 11 forts. It beat off an Austrian and Italian army in 1707 ; but Bonaparte ‘wrested it from an English garrison in 1793. See Arsenal-gate , with statues ; Maritime Museum ; Puget’s statue of Renown ; prison, founded by Colbert in 1682, now depot of prisoners sentenced to transportation ; Hotel de Ville , with sculptures, and in front a statue of Genius of Navigation; ancient Cathedral , with sculp- tures by Canova, Mignard, and Puget, and noble view from Batterie du Salut. It is 41^ M. hence to Marseilles {Hotel de Noailles ; De Marseilles ; Du Louvre et de la Paix ; Des Colonies ), the foremost mari- time city (376,000 inhab.) of France, which has a long and narrow inner harbor, with large modern docks out- 400 MARSEILLES. — CHATEAU D’lF. side. It was founded by Greeks or Phoenicians, b.c. 6U0, under the name of Massilia ; defeated the Carthagin- ians ; established many colonies along the coast ; was conquered by Caesar, Visigoths, Pranks, Saracens, and Spaniards • and in 1481 was annexed to Prance. Here were born Tiiiers, Gozlain, Puget, and Mery. The Marseillaise call their La Cannebiere the finest street in the world. This line of streets runs N. W. from the ancient harbor, by the handsome Bourse, with statues of eminent pre-Christian Massilian (Greek) navigators ; the Place Roy ale ; across the shady Cours de VAthenee (statue of intrepid Bishop Belsunce), which leads to Triumphal Arch i with sculptures of Napoleon’s victories, and to rly. stat. ; across Cours St. Louis , which runs under various names 2J M. to the N. E. ; and out to Zoological Garden , near which is the handsome Long- champs Museum (open, 10-4), where an Ionic colon- nade joins the Natural-History Museum to the Picture- Gallery. See immense Pocks ; Canal, which cost $12,000,000 ; Ch. of Notre Pame de la Garde , on steep and far- view- ing hill; splendid new Byzantine Cathedral; old Ca- thedral, on ruins of Temple of Diana; palatial Hotel de la Prefecture ; and Palais de Justice. In suburbs, visit noble Corniche road. The Chateau, d’lf, built by Prancis I. on an island in the harbor, was made famous by Dumas’s Monte Cristo. Steamships of Messageries Maritimes, Valery Freres, Praissinet & Co., and other lines, make Marseilles their, chief port, and run to Messina, Athens, and Constantinople; to Syra, Smyrna, Constantinople, and Odessa, — returning by Athens and Naples ; to Salonica; to Naples and Alexandria; to Port Said, Jaffa, Beyrout, and Syrian coast ; to Trebi- zond ; to Madras and Calcutta ; to Suez, Aden, Singapore, Hong- Kong, Shanghai, aud Yokohama (fortnightly); to Al- ARLES. — NIMES. 401 giers ; to Barcelona ; to Nice, Genoa, Leghorn, Civita Vecchia, and Naples ; and occasionally to New York. From Marseilles the tourist may readily enter Spain by -way of Barcelona (see page 405). Arles, Nimes, Avignon, and Lyons. Rly. from Marseilles to Paris in 16-18 hrs. (fares, 106 fr.. - 35 c., 79 fr. 80 c.). Train leaving at 8.30 a.m. is due at Paris at 11.19 p.m. The route leads through vineyards and olive-groves, among which are ancient villages, to Arles ( Grand ? Hj'tel du Forum ; Du Nord ), a venerable Roman town (26,000 inhab.) near the Camargue , or delta of the- Rhone. The Roman Amphitheatre (b.c. 43) is 1,500 ft. around, with seats for 25,000 spectators, fine arcades, and dens for wild beasts. It has been a fortress of the Goths, Saracens, and Franks, some of whose towers are still standing. The remains of the Roman Theatre are very interesting. See also famous Roman cemetery of Champs Rly sees (mentioned by Dante) ; columns hr Place du Forum; ruins of Thermae, and of Constan- tine's Palace ; Roman Obelisk of Alpine granite, set up here in 1676; Museum (in old ch. of S. Anna) of Roman statues and antiquities ; 7th-century Cathedral , with fine portal and interesting cloisters ; viaduct with 32 arches ; and (2J M. N. E.) imposing ruins of for- tress-abbey of Montmajour, on a high rock. The* women of Arles are celebrated for beauty. Fares, Marseilles to Arles, 10 fr. 60 c., 7 fr. 90 c.* 5 fr. 80 c. From Arles, via Tarascon, to Nimes, 4 frv 85 c., 3 fr. 60 c., 2 fr. 60 c. Nimes ( Hotel du Luxembourg ; Du Midi) the birth- place of Guizot and Nicot (whence nicotine ), has- 62,000 inhab. It was once a sacred spot in a Druidica) 402 TARASCON. — AVIGNON. forest ; conquered by Rome, b.c. 121 ; and at time of Reformation, scene of fierce religious wars. No other French town has such noble Roman remains. The well-preserved Amphitheatre (b.c. 140) has 35 rows of seats and 121 exits, and is 1,300 ft. around and 74 ft. high. It was made a fortress by Visigoths and Sara- cens ; and afterwards contained a large village. The Maison Carree is a Roman temple, 88 X 42 ft. in area, with 30 exquisite Corinthian columns. Founded prob- ably by the Antonines, it became afterwards a ch., and then a town-hall ; and is now a Museum , with antique mosaics and sculptures, and several score of modern paintings. The Capitol at Richmond, Va., was mod- elled on plan of Maison Carree. See also ancient Tem~ ; pie of Diana (or Nympheeuni), and Roman Baths , below the huge and far-viewing Tourmagne, on Mount Cava- lier , adorned with promenades ; 2 of the Roman town- gates ; Fountain ; and Boulevards. Tarascon ( Hotel des Empereurs ; Du Petit Louvre ), the city of the troubadours, and of King Rene of Anjou (13,500 inhab.), has notable Castle , Ch. of S. Marthe , Chapel of St. Gabriel , and Rue des Arcades. Avignon ( Hotel de V Europe') is a handsome city (38,000 inhab.) on the Rhone, with an imposing and well-preserved wall (1349-68) of huge masonry, and many gates. On the Rocher des Dons , 300 ft. high, stands the 14th-century Cathedral , wuth tombs of 2 popes ; La Glaciere , an ancient square prison-tower of the Inquisition, where many martyrs have died; the Papal Palace (now a barrack), a huge and fortress-like pile, 100 ft. high, with frowming towers and a chapel frescoed by Memmi (about 1330) ; the old Papal Mint , •etc. Splendid view of Rhone and city from adjacent public gardens. The golden age of Avignon was dur- ing 1305-77, when 7 popes dwelt there, with all the VAUCLUSE. — VIENNE. 403 Pontifical court. In 1351 Petrarch was a guest in the Palace, and Rienzi lay bound in its dungeons. At foot of Rocher des Dons is the Grande Place , with hand- some Theatre and Hotel de Ville . See also Calvet Museum (lfr.), with Roman antiquities, library, and picture-gallery ; Bridge , of which but 4 arches remain ; Monument to" Petrarch’s Laura; 17th-century Hotel Grillon ; and Ch. of Grands Carmes. Vaucluse is 12 M. distant by rly. to IJIle-sur- Sorgues , whence 4 M. by road. Here is the fountain of which Petrarch sang. The Pont du Gard, W. of Avignon, is one of the grandest Roman works in exist- ence. It is an aqueduct of 3 lines of arches, over the desolate Gard Valley, built probably by Agrippa. Beyond Avignon the Paris rly. passes Orange ( Hotel de la Poste ; Des Princes ), a Roman colony, and afterwards capital of principality (until 1702), with large Roman Theatre (20,000 sittings) and Triumphal Arch. Near Pierrelatte are many Roman remains. Montelimart has famous mineral springs. Livron is famous for its defence by the Huguenots against Henri III. in 1574. Valence ( Hotel de la Croix) is a picturesque town (20,000 inhab.), with Roman ruins ; Cathedral with tomb of Pius VI. ; Museum; and Maison des Tetes. Vienne ( Hotel du Nord ; De la Poste), “a little Erench Manchester” (25,000 inhab.), on the Rhone, has Roman Temple of Augustus , with 16 Corinthian columns; 6th-century basilica of S. Pierre ; venerable Cathedral ; etc. Lyons ( Grand Hotel de Lyon ; Des Beaux- Arts ; Collet et Continental ; De V Europe), the second city and chief manufacturing place of France (400,000 inhab.), is at the confluence of the Rhone and Saone, and is of vast importance, both commercially and strategically. The Perrache is the quarter between and reclaimed 404 LYONS. from the 2 rivers ; and containing handsome rly. stat.. Arsenal, Barracks, Custom House, and Ch. of St. Blawdine. See 13th-century Cathedral, with fagade by Philibert Delorme, and noble tower; Museum (open 9-3), with Roman antiquities and statues, library, and large picture-gallery (see Perugino’s Ascension) ; Grand Theatre ; noble view from pilgrimage-ch. of Notre Name de Fourmere , on heights ; Hotel de Ville (1647), near scene of massacres of 1794 ; Civic Library , 180,000 vols. ; Palace of Commerce , with industrial museum ; Hotel Nieu; great tobacco-factories; new Bellecour Theatre ; 10th-century ch. of Abbey of Ainay , on site of Caligula’s school of rhetoric; handsome Tete d'Or park; Ch. of S. Jean, of 12th century; and Place Bellecour . There are 16 bridges over the rivers ; and the adjacent heights are covered with great forts. Rly. from Lyons to Geneva, 4 J hrs. (fares, 20 fr. 65 c., 15 J fr., 11 fr. 35 c.) ; and to Besancon (fares, 29 fr. 20 c., 21 fr. 85 c., 16 fr. 5 c.). Besangon ( Hotel de Paris') is one of the strongest fortresses in Prance (48,000 inliab.), with noble Cathedral, Archiepiscopal Palace, Granvelle Palace (1534), Roman Arch, and Library (120,000 vols.). Express trains, Lyons to Paris, 9-10 hrs., by Macon, Chalons-sur-Saone, Dijon, etc. Montpellier, Cette, and Perpignan, see pages 405-6. Biarritz and Bayonne , see page 433. Pau , Cauterets, Bordeaux , Arcachon , Angouleme, Poi- tiers, Toulouse, Vichy, etc., see pages 436 et seq. SPAIN. 405 A ROUND TRIP IN SPAIN. T HE tourist who can give ten days for a visit to the most important points in Spain will never have occasion to regret it. He will find it among the most interesting and instructive of his journeys in Europe. Erom Marseilles we recommend you to go directly to- Barcelona , from there to Valencia, and thence via La Encina to the Alcazar de San Juan. Erom this point you may go S. to Seville and Cordova, from Cordova to> Grenada, from Grenada to Malaga, all this by rail : then from Malaga by steamer to Gibraltar ; from Gib- raltar to Cadiz, from Cadiz to Seville, from Seville to the Alcazar de San J uan : from thence to Madrid, taking on the way the ancient city of Toledo ; and from Madrid N. to Erance by Avila, Valladolid, Burgos, and Irun : thence to Bordeaux and Paris. That does not include several points of interest, such as for instance Saragossa, Alicante, Salamanca, etc. ; but it gives a capital idea of the chief beauties of Spain. Even to those wdio feeL that they cannot spend the time to go S. to Seville, Grenada, Malaga, and Gibraltar, we would recommend to try the route to Barcelona, Valencia, Toledo, and N., being satisfied with half of Spain if they cannot see the whole. As for the journey to Portugal and especially to Lisbon we shall simply point out the route, as most vacation tourists will find it too lengthy. Between Marseilles and Barcelona you pass through Montpellier {Hotel Nevet ; Du Midi ; Du Cheval Blanc). Here is a Cathedral founded in 1364 by Ur- ban V. ; a school of medicine with fine entrance flanked with a colossal bronze statue representing Barthez and 406 GERONA. — BARCELONA. La Peyronnic ; a library of 50,000 vols., a good mi> seum (open Sun., Mon., and fete days, 11-3) ; a public library, 60,000 vols. ; and many beautiful fountains, statues, gardens, and promenades : — Cette, one of tbe most industrious and dirtiest cities of Southern France, noted for its exports of wine, for its museum of natural history, and its botanical garden : — Narbonne , and Perpignan, an old French town with a Spanish aspect. The Spanish frontier is reached at Cerbere , in the midst of a wildly beautiful country ; baggage inspection not severe. The only point of special importance through which you pass on your way to Barcelona is Gerona ( Fonda Italiana), a large town divided into two sections, upper and lower, by the river Ona. Noble view here of the Pyrenees and the distant mountains. The porch of the Cathedral is reached by a monumental staircase of 86 steps. The interior forms one single nave, nearly 200 ft. long, sustained by immense pillars, formed of little columns almost detached from each other. Many interesting tombs here. The chief altar is one of the richest in Spain. The Bishop's Palace is very fine. Old churches of Santa Lucia and San Daniel are worth seeing. The Capuchin Convent contains a small Arabic monument of wonderful intricate work- manship. From Gerona it is 65 M. to Barcelona ( Hotel de las Cuatro Naciones ; Fonda del Orient e; De EspaHa; Peninsular; San Agustin), one of the most enterprising as well as one of the most beautiful cities (430,000 inhab.) in Southern Europe. Its appearance quite contradicts any impressions, that one may have of the slovenliness and lack of energy of the modern Spaniards, impressions, alas ! confirmed later on by the aspect of more southward towns. Barcelona is the residence of a Captain General and of the civil governor of the province of Catalonia. It is at present SPAIN. 407 undergoing a great transformation. The upper part of the city, notably in the Gracia quarter, will remind Americans of the more beautiful sections ol Boston and of Washington. The Rambla is the principal promenade of the city, and at noon and in the evening is thronged with all classes of the population. It runs from the Place of La Paz, opposite the port, to the Tarragona rly. stat., and from here stretches out the beautiful Gracia avenue, which unites the city to a suburb of the same name. Vast boulevards have been planned in an equally vast new city, which the people of Barcelona insist is sure to be built. Among the squares is the Boyal; that of the Duke of Medina Celi, ornamented with a column raised to the memory of Marquet ; the Square of Commerce , with its beautiful fountain ; and the New Flace> where are two interesting old towers. The travel- ler will at once be struck with the magnificence of some of the public buildings; among others the Theatre called the Lyceo , which is said to be the largest in the world. It is built after the model of La Scala, at Milan. The Lonja , or Exchange, is of monumental aspect. The Casa de la Biputacion , oil the Place of the Constitution, was built in the 16th century ; fine portal. On the side front- ing on the Calle del Obispo is the exquisite fa£ade of the chapel of St. George, Gothic in style. The Hall of the Diputacion has many fine paintings ; among others a number of the best works of Fortuny. Here are the Archives of the Crown of Aragon. This superb col- lection is able to furnish without any gaps documents to complete the history of 10 centuries. Opposite is the Casa Consistorial , a Gothic edifice (1378). The patio, or courtyard, is much admired. The Custom House , Casa Aduana , is near the old royal palace. The public libraries are small but well chosen. Barcelona lias numerous fine hospitals, and its schools are quite 408 BARCELONA. remarkable, for Spain. The Cathedral dates from the first centuries of the Church. It is dedicated to S. Eulalia ; but the present church was built by Ray- mond Berenguer I. in 1058. Its front is still unfinished. The interior has 3 vast naves, ogival in style. The chief altar is in a sort of temple, supported by sculp- tured columns : at the top is a Christ upon the Cross. Beneath the ch. is a crypt, with a chapel in which are said to repose the remains of S. Eulalia : beautiful stained glass windows here. The side door on the r. leads into the cloister, which is marvellously decorated in the style of the 15th century. Notice the ironwork on the doors of the chapels : also the tomb of the dwarf buffoon of King Alfonso Y. of Aragon. There are numerous other chs. of interest. Among the most strik- ing is A. Maria del Mar , a fine Gothic edifice. The Provincial Museum contains some good paintings by Villodomat, some by the Caracci, and works of Ribera and other masters. The Museo Arqueologico, in the ch. of Santa Agneda, is interesting. On an isolated hill stands the Castle of Montjuich, which can contain a garrison of about 10,000 men. Barcelonetta is a little suburb chiefly inhabited by fishermen and workmen in the marine establishments. Gracia is a favorite residence of the wealthier people of Barcelona. An excursion should be made to the immense rocky mass of Monserrat , which rises in the midst of the Catalonian plain, to the height of about 3,500 ft. above the level of the sea, at a distance of 31 M. from Barce- lona. It may be reached from the stat. of Martoreli , on the Tarragona line, or rather more easily from Mo - nistrol , a station on the Saragossa rly., from which a car- riage road leads to the Monastery on the summit of the mt. Of the old monastery founded in 880 nothing is left but a few walls and one or two towers in Byzantine SPAIN. 409 style, dating from the 15tli century. The present mon astery is composed of immense buildings, 8 stories high, without special character. The cli. is beautified with a portico, rich with statues and columns. The renown of the Virgin of Monserrat is too well known to need mention here. From the top of the mt. there is a splendid view of immense extent over the hills of Ar- agon, the Pyrenees, the Mediterranean shore, and in very clear weather as far as the Balearic Islands. There are several grottos filled with stalactites in the Mon- serrat mass. The Balearic Islands. — There is regular com- munication between Barcelona and Palma, the capital of the old Kingdom of Majorca, and the chief town of the province which to-day bears the name of Bale- ares, and which comprises the islands of Majorca, Minorca, Ivica, and several others. Palma is a pretty town with narrow streets, in the midst of a delight- ful country. There are a few fine buildings in it. See Lonja , or old Exchange, begun in 1426, finished 22 years later : the Citadel , built at the close of the 16th century : the Palace of the Captain General : the Cathe- dral , founded 1230, finished 1601. Majorca pretends to be the cradle of the Bonaparte family, because an ancestor of that house, Hugo Bonaparte, a native of Majorca, went in 1411 to Corsica as governor in the name of King Martin, when that island belonged to the Crown of Aragon : — In the Island of Minorca, Fort Mahon is the principal town, much frequented by navi- gators of all nations. The English were there for a long time, and quitted the island only in 1782. From Barcelona those who have time may find it interesting to visit Saragossa (distance, 229^ M. ; fares, 185 r. 10, 148 r. 86, 101 r. 75). Fares from Saragossa to Madrid, 170 r. 50, 132 r. 14, 81 r. 410 SARAGOSSA. Saragossa {Fonda de Europa ; Las Cuatro Naciones ); existed in the time of the Romans. Augustus Caesar founded a military colony there, to which he gave the name of Caesarea Augusta, whence the contraction Saragossa. The rly. stat. is some dis- tance outside the town, which has a population of 86,000, and is situated on the 1. bank of the Ebro. It is renowned for its obstinate resistance to the army, of Napoleon during the memorable siege of 1808, and still shows marks of bullets on its walls. The Gate of Nues- tra Sehora del Carmen is a noble memorial of the siege. Erom the stone bridge wdiich unites the town with the suburb of Altabas there is a fine view of the city and the Ch. of Our Lady del Filar . This is the object of fervent devotion on the part of Spanish Catholics. According to tradition a chapel was built here about the year 40 of the Christian era by the orders of the Vir- gin herself, who brought to it the pillar and the statue so much venerated to-day. Even when the mauso- leums were injured at Saragossa, this chapel and the pillar were preserved. The first stone of the present ch. was laid in 1681. The interior is rather naked and cold. There are, however, some beautiful marble columns upholding the sculptured vault. In the Sacristy is a fine Ecce Homo attributed to Titian. The Ch . of San Salvador , or the Seo } that is, the Epis- copal seat, is considered, however, as more important than the first mentioned one. It is sumptuously orna- mented, and the mysterious twilight in the 5 naves has an impressive effect. Beautiful sculptures here repre- senting the history of the Saviour, of the adoration of the Magi, the Ascension, etc. ; also several fine tombs. The Trascoro is the work of the celebrated sculptor Tudelilla, and the chapels are very rich. The subter- ranean ch. of Santa Engracia , where repose the Montpellie^ Toulouse, ; YarboirnfM Jucfl iC- CGat#'. MAP OF SPAIN AND PORTUGAL to accompany" Casseirs Pocket Guide To Europe Boundaries thus — '" " English Miles - 36 Z Longitude West O longitude EaLSt 2 K.WiJ I«r, ! F; : ' "t ; •> F \A Ti. 1 y t ^: *» yWK/ * i > • '-ssr- - • ':•/ •- -. 4.1 . ' if •;- &> 'f - ( & SO SAM Kiiia . tfXA JAOTJTHO^ ^r.qjJXoa'iG tu ^pi. &£i :t) J02&oS[ sVe* c'aO 9 qo*m 3 otT # — i;fi>v••. tt.fl SPAIN. 411 remains of many Christian martyrs, who were slain by »he soldiers of Diocletian, is interesting. The ch. was nearly destroyed by an explosion in 1808. The other chs. are too numerous to mention. The Casa Muni- cipal, the Exchange , with its vast rectangular hall, formed by 24 beautiful columns in 4 rows ; the Leaning Tower , built in 1304 ; the Aljaferia , which was a pal- ace of pleasure for the Arab kings; the Bull Ring ; a: great number of beautiful private residences ; the University , which has a library of 25,000 vols. ; some- convents and hospitals; and the suburb of Sanies Engracia , may all be readily seen in the course of half a day. From the little hills in the neighborhood there- are very pretty views. On the way from Barcelona to Saragossa you pass through ’Lexi&a. \Fonda San Luis ; Be Espana). From here there is rail to Tarragona. The old Cathedral is a magnificent mass of Byzantine Gothic remains, mixed with various Arabic styles ; picturesque and rich cloister. The new Cathedral, built under Charles III.,, is a fine Corinthian edifice with 3 naves, surrounded with a great number of chapels and many fine altars. The excursion to Saragossa is rather out of the limits which we had assigned for a brief journey through Spain. We recommend the tourist to go through Tarragona along the coast to Valencia : fares from Barcelona to Tarragona, 51 r., 38 r., 25 r. ; dis- tance, 63^ M. ; fares from Barcelona to Valencia, 174 r. 80, 107 r. 20, 83 r. 60 ; distance, 173f M. You leave Barcelona very early in the morning and reach Valencia about 8 or 9 in the evening. Take you* provisions with yon from the hotel. The journey affords a very fine series of contrasted views of Spanish scenery. After leaving Tarragona you pass through remarkably wild scenery along the base of rocky mts.* 112 TARRAGONA. — VALENCIA •and then descend into the delicious landscape in the neighborhood of Valencia, filled with groves of oranges and lemons, and with a great variety of semi-tropical shrubs. Tarragona {Paris; Europa ; Cuatro Naciones) is a very old towm of about 30,000 inhab., once the centre of the Homan power in Spain. Not far away are the sites of some of Hannibal’s battles. Traces of the old walls are to be seen in many points in the city. Very ancient gates here. Some of the modern residences are built with the debris of temples and of Homan palaces. The Place of the Constitution is on the site of an old Homan circus. The Cathedral is Gothic in style ; inte- rior vast, aspect majestic, ornaments sober but heavy, pillars shrouded in old Italian tapestries, many mar- ble tombs and statues. In the Chapel of Corpus Christi are the remains of Don Jaime I., King of Ara- gon, and his wife. Old Aqueduct here. The next place of importance is Tortosa, a strongly fortified city, on the 1. bank of the Ebro (42,000 inhab,). Imposing fortifications. Cathedral of little importance. Shortly before reaching Valencia you pass Murviedro , near which are the ruins of the celebrated and ancient city of Saguntum. If you go to these ruins, visit them at midday. The population is not aggressive, but there have been brigands in the neighborhood. Valencia {Hotel de Paris; Cuatro Naciones; Espaila; Be la Villa de Madrid ) is the chief town (142,000 inhab.) of the province of the same name, the residence of a captain general and of the archbishop. It is beautifully situated in the midst of a great number of groves and gardens. About 2^ M. distant is its port, called El G-rao , which is accessible for large steam- ships. Valencia may be seen in half a day. The first impression of it is not imposing, but the beauties of its SPAIN. 413 natural situation and its architecture grow upon one. The principal squares are those of the Constitution . where is the city hall; that of S. Francesco ; that of S. Domingo , a market-place, which is well worth spending an hour or two in when the peasantry from the neigh- boring mts. are there ; the celebrated Exchange and the Silk Hall. The Audiencia is a fine building of the 16th century. The principal halls are ornamented with good portraits. The Arcliiepiscopal Palace is con- nected with the Cathedral by a bridge. In the Casa de la Ciudad are some good pictures. The Cathedral dates from 1262. The largest tower is called El Migue- lete, from the name of the big bell which was baptized in the name of S. Michael. Prom the platform of the tower, splendid view of the sea and the coast. The interior is formed of 3 vaulted naves supported by square pillars with Corinthian capitals. High mass in this cli. is a splendid spectacle. Yisit the Sala Capitu- lar , immense quantity of relics, ornaments, archives, books, and MSS. The Ch. of S. Catalina has an old mosaic. Its tower is beautiful. In the Ch. of S. Juan del Hospital is the tomb of one of the empresses of Constantinople. The old home of the Jesuits is occu- pied by the civil government. Very fine hospitals here. The University buildings are not remarkable. In the Collegio del Corpus Christi is a beautiful Cena by Ribalta. . An invisible mechanism winds up this canvas and opens 4 great curtains showing a superb crucifix, which is much venerated by the Yalencians. The Provincial Museum is in the old convent of the Merced. The Theatre is large, but without character. The Bull Ping is immense. The principal promenades are the Alameda , the Botanical Garden , and the Glori- eta (vast prison here, 1,500 prisoners). Pretty walks by the banks of the River. In the tobacco-factory, 414 ALICANTE. — ALBACETK 3500 women are occupied. The Valencian women are renowned for their beauty. Erom Valencia you may go to Alicante via La Encina. Alicante ( Fonda de Bossio) is a fine seaport (35,000 inhab.). The town has no remarkable architectural features. The streets are large and well paved. The Alameda de la Reina is pretty. The City Hall, flanked with 4 towers, is quite imposing. Neither of the 2 chs. are worth much study. The Convent of S. Clara, or of the Holy Eace, as it is called, possesses a much venerated relic, the handkerchief with which S, Vero- nica wiped the sweat from the brows of the Saviour. The Citadel of Si Barbara is supposed to be impreg- nable. You may also go to Alicante by Alcoy and Jativa. This last mentioned town is beautifully situ- ated on a mt. -chain, overlooking a magnificently culti- vated plain. On the flanks of the hills are the walls of an old fortress. A Erench writer says that the rly. here seems to be the alley through a region of gardens. Returning from Alicante to La Encina you may take ticket to the Alcazar de S. Juan, or directly to Madrid. On the way you pass Albacete ( Fonda Francisquillo), renowned for its manufacture of knives. Specimens of the merchandise are always offered by pedlers to passengers on the trains. The Alcazar de S . Juan is where the lines to Andalusia and to Portugal branch off from the main line from Madrid to Valencia. It is an old town which the Order of the Knights of S. Juan made its head- quarters. Decent refreshment-room here. Attend carefully to your baggage. Erom the Alcazar de S. Juan to Cordova the journey is one of the most inter- esting in Spain, and descends into Andalusia. At Man - zanares the line to Ciudad Real and Portugal branches off. You pass through Val de Penas , whence you get SPAIN. 415 a good view of the Sierra Morena. Between the Alca- zar and the Yal de Penas lies much of the country described in Bon Quixote. Many interesting points on the line. Notice Almiradiel , and Filches, near whicl\ is the great plain where in 1212 a Christian army defeated the great Mussulman hordes under the com- mand of Mahomed al Nassr. At Mengibar there is a fine bridge over the Guadalquivir. At Andujar there is little of importance to be seen except the large ch. in what is known as the Plateresque style of architecture. Cordova {Fonda EspaUolaj Suiza j Fonda de Oriente) is an old town of 42,000 inliab., situated in a delicious plain on the r. bank of the Guadalquivir, in full view of the slopes of the Sierra Morena. Cordova has a sumptu- ous museum of antiquities : a great collection of edifices of all epochs ; and is divided into two parts by one long street, the Calle de la Fence, the principal artery for the commerce of the city. The walls which still surround it are flanked with towers, octagonal, cylindrical, or square, which were the work of successive generations of Saracen and Christian architects. The Plaza de la Con - stitucion is surrounded by fine buildings. The old stone bridge over the stream is attributed to Octavius Au- gustus. The principal objects of interest are the Old Alcazar, and the garden of the Moorish kings, adjacent to it. For permission to enter address the porter. The New Alcazar is to-day a prison. The Episcopal Palace is built of very rich materials, but not in remarkably good taste : fine gardens and good li- brary. Curious collection of portraits of all the bishops of Cordova. Near this palace is the Triunfo , a hand- some marble monument, surmounted with a column which bears a gilded bronze statue of St. Raphael. A great number of the houses in the city are ornamented with inscriptions in honor of emperors, consuls, magis- 416 GOUDOVA, trates, etc. The modern Bull Bing is near the rly. stat. The Mosque , now the Cathedral , is certainly one of the most remarkable edifices in the world. It was founded in 7 86 by Abdurrahman I., and completed by his son in 794. The exterior is rather gloomy ; the court- yard within, remarkably beautiful. It has colonnades on 3 sides, with fountains in the centre ; and is planted with orange and cypress trees. The interior of the Cathedral has been somewhat aptly described as a “marble grove.” The roof is supported by a vast number of slender pillars, beautifully wrought with Co- rinthian capitals and shafts of various colored marbles, of jasper, porphyry, etc. The principal entrance, called the Puerta del Perdon i is in front of the 6th nave on the W. side. The Mihrah , or the Holy of Holies, is very curious. The Mosque was converted into a Cathedral on the 25th of June, 1236. In the Colegiata de San Hipolito are two urns containing the ashes of King Alfonso XI. and his father Ferdinand IY. : also the tomb of the celebrated chronicler Ambrosio de Morales. The chs. of S. Pedro and of S. Marina are also worth seeing. The Convent of S. Fahlo has beautiful cloisters and a magnificent staircase. Many other convents are rich in works of art. Just outside the town is the sanctuary of our Lady of la Fuen Santa : great public festival here on the 8th, 9th, and 10th of Sept. An excursion to the Ermitas in the Sierra Morena is worth while. From Cordova to Granada the distance is 15 3 J M. On the way you pass Montilla , which is one of the most beautiful places in Andalusia. Here the Great Captain, Gonzalvo de Cordova, was born. At Bobadilla a branch line to the r. goes to Malaga, (refreshment room here). Antequera is an old fortress, said to have been built in Boman times. Notice SPAIN. 417 the colossal bronze angel on . the cupola of the ch. of San Sebastian : also the Arch of Hercules , a Homan ruin. Granada (Hotels : Fonda de Alameda ; Victoria ; Europa ; De los Siete Suelos ; Washington Irving / Casas de Pupilos ), a city of 72,000 inliab., is world famous, and we shall only briefly indicate the best way to visit the Alhambra and the other curiosities of the town in a short time. Granada is grouped on the slopes of 3 hills. The Torres Bermejas , or Scarlet Towers, so called because of their color, are on the first and the last of these hills. The Alhambra , which is a city in itself, covers the second and the highest. The Albaycin is on the third, separated from the others by a deep ravine filled with rank vegetation. Through this ravine runs the torrent of the Darro. Granada itself is divided into 4 large sections. The modern city occupies the part of the valley between the hills of the Albaycin and the Alhambra. Notice the Plaza del Triunfo , at the end of which is the Bull Ring. On this Plaza is a white marble column, with statue of the Virgin. Here also are the Royal Hospital and the Convent of the Merced. On the Plaza Nueva , reached by the Zacatin, is the fine edifice of the Audiencia. See the statue of San Onofrio. Here is a University , with rich library and a rather inferior collection of pictures. The Cathedral , to be seen from 8 a.m. to noon, and 3 to 5 p.m., has a fine front ornamented with statues and bas-reliefs. Interior has 5 naves, supported by 20 enormous pillars, formed of columns grouped together. The Door of the Pardon is very fine. The Capilla del Pilar is filled with beau- tiful marbles. See the group of “ Charity ” in the Sala Capitular, the work of Torrigiani, the Florentine artist, who was the rival of Michael Angelo. The Capilla Mayor is one of the most richly decorated in Spain. 27 418 GRANADA. — THE ALHAMBRA. The Royal Chapel was built to receive the remains of Ferdinand and Isabella, and here are their tombs. The two royal statues lie on the sarcophagus : two lions repose at their feet. Here are the crown and sceptre of Isabella, and the sword of Ferdinand. In a second mausoleum near by are the remains of Queen Joanna, who was insane, and of Philip her husband. The tower •of the Cathedral is unfinished. The Alhambra is open from 10 to. noon, and from 2 to 5 p m. Leaving the Plaza Nueva you scale the Cuesta de los Gomeles. At the top of this street you find the Puerta de las Granadas , a kind of triumphal arch built by Charles V., where formerly stood an an- cient Arabic gate. Beyond this lie the groves and the gardens which surround the Alhambra. W e will simply enumerate the objects to be seen. The Pilar de Car- los V ’., ornamented with statues ; the Puerta de Jtdcio , or Boor of Judgment ; the Plaza de los Algibes , or Place of the Cisterns ; the Puerta del Vino ; tjie Palace of Charles V., a fine Renaissance structure, but un- finished. The centre is occupied by a circular patio or 'Court, surrounded by a vaulted gallery supported by 32 Doric columns in marble. The Alhambra, a marvellous Arabic palace, occupied a rectangle of 400 ft. long by 250 wide. It comprised 5 interior courts. The prin- cipal fayade, which was to the N., was demolished to make room for the Palace of Charles V. Its main entrance opened on the Patio de los Arrayanes, and you can only enter it to-day through a small corridor behind the N. fa£ade of the Imperial palace. In the Patio de los Arrayanes is the famous Alhambra Vase, the finest known monument of Hispano-Moresque faience. The Hall of the Ambassadors , the Tocador , and the Mira dor , or toilet rooms of the Queen, the Patio de la Mezquita , the Hall of the Baths , the Patio de las Rejas, the Court SPAIN. 419 of Lions , the most precious specimen of Arabesque architecture in Spain, with 128 white marble columns in the galleries surrounding it, with a floor of white marble, a noble fountain, and 12 great sculptured lions. The Halls of the Tribunal , of the Dos Hermanas (the Two Sisters), and the Hall of the Abencerrages, should be carefully studied. The Royal Chapel, which is rarely open, contains a great variety of artistic treasures. From the platform of the Tower of the Vela there is an admirable view. Visit also the Adarves, a line of old bastions transformed into gardens, also the ch. of Santa Maria, the Towers of the Cautivas , of the Garceles , of Los Siete Suelos, del Agua , de las Infantas and many others, should be carefully inspected. To visit the Generalife you leave by the Los Picos Gate, and go down the hill by a route which crosses the ravine of Los Molinos, and which then climbs the foot of the hills of a neighboring mt. The Generalife was the pleasure house of the Alhambra. But little remains of it except a few arcades and some beautiful arabesques. In one of the few halls which are still covered with a roof, there is a series of smoky portraits of the Kings of Spain, which have only a chronological merit. “From the Tower of the Generalife,” says a French writer, “ you fancy that you can touch the Sierra Nevada, so pure and limpid is the air through which you see that moun- tain chain. ” There are a great many beautiful excur- sions in the neighborhood of the Alhambra, but to enjoy them one must remain in the vicinity at least a week. The gypsy encampments in the country-side are very interesting, but the prudent traveller will scarcely care to venture among them without a stout escort. From Granada the distance to Malaga by rail is 119 M. Malaga {Roma, on the Alameda; Royal Victoria; Nuevo; Inglaterra , second class, but good), with 116,000 420 MALAGA. — GIBRALTAR. inhab., may be easily seen in half a day. Tbe exquisite climate and the beautiful situation of tbe town are its chief attractions. Tbe Episcopal Palace , tbe City Hall , the new Custom House , tbe Theatre , which can contain 2,000 spectators, the vast Bull Ping , which holds 10,000, are not architecturally remarkable. The Al- cazaha is an ancient fortress which antedates the Arabic occupation. The Atarazana is an old arsenal of the Moors. The Castle of Gihalfaro is on a hill to the E. of the city. The highest tower is an imposing mass sustained by 4 arches and nearly 100 ft. high. Good view from this tower. The most beautiful prom- enade in this town is the Alameda : many pretty foun- tains and statues here. The Cathedral , which would be rich in any other country, is not remarkable for Spain. All through this country grow wheat, oats, olives, all kinds of fruit : orange, lemon, and fig trees are abun- dant. Try and time your visit to Granada so as to connect with the steamer going to Gibraltar. Gibraltar (Royal ; King's Arms ; Europa) is a city situated on a slope on the W. part of the famous rock and facing the bay. It has about 20,000 inhab. exclusive of the English garrison of 6,000 men. Main Street is the principal artery of the town. A narrow’ road connects the mainland with the rock, and this is guarded by batteries. Erom top to bottom the mt. is full of excavations, and out of every one looks the mouth of a cannon. At the summit is an unfinished tower, called the St. George's. It was intended to be sufficiently high to enable the sentinels to overlook the Bay of Cadiz and see the movements there. In 1704 the English fleet, sustaining the rights of the Archduke Charles of Austria to the crown of Spain against Philip V., presented itself before Gibraltar, the fortifi- cations of which w r ere then in ruins and occupied by a SPAIN. 421 garrison of 80 men. The town was taken, and although in the name of the archduke, England thought it proper to keep it. Various attempts to take it back were made in 1727, 1779, and 1782, but with- out success. The fortifications can be visited with special permission, which may be easily obtained at the hotels. There is also a good club to which strangers may be presented. Excursions may be made from Gibraltar to several interesting points on the African coast, notably Ceuta and Tangier. From Gibraltar you can easily get steamship to Cadiz, as nearly all the trading boats along the coast stop at these places. The voyage is usually about 10 hrs. d^ipThe people at the hotels do not warn you of the approach of the steamers. Cadiz (Hotels : Fonda de Paris ; Fonda de Francia; Fonda de Cadiz y De la America y De Europay De las Cuatro Naciones) is one of the most charming of Spanish towns (64,000 inhab.). It is on a peninsula, which extends into the ocean, and is generally consid- ered the most agreeable town in Andalusia. It is strongly fortified, and its position is well calculated for defence. Notice the Fort of S. Catalina: also the Fort of S. Sebastian. From the Torre de la Vigia , in the centre of the town, you get an admirable view of Cadiz, and its surroundings. Nearly all the houses are white, and their terraces and balconies are very picturesque. The Casas Consistoriales occupy fine buildings on the Plaza de la Constitucion. The Alam,eda is a fine prome- nade on one of the ramparts N. E. of the city. There are two handsome theatres, a Bull Ring , and a large number of colleges and seminaries, as well as an Academy of Fine Arts and numerous libraries. The new Cathe- dral, which is at the S. end of the town, is not a very successful piece of architecture. A great profusion of marbles havp been used in its decoration, but the gen- 422 CADIZ. — SEVILLE. eral effect is confused and disagreeable. The Treasury is rich in relics, jewels, etc. The old Cathedral has fallen into decay. In the chapel of the Convent of S. Catalina are many pictures by Murillo. Steam com- munication between Cadiz and Portugal, England, Hol- land, the Erench and German coasts, and Mexico, is very frequent. You may go from Odiz to Seville by steamboat, on the Guadalquivir, in 8 nrs. ; fares, 60 r. ; breakfast on board from 8 to 12 r. The journey is pretty, but most travellers will probably prefer the rail route, about 82f- M. ; passing through Jerez de la Frontera , a pretty town, enriched by commerce in wine and other products of its generous soil. Here see curious monastery, museum, finely decorated city hall. About 2 M. S. E. of the town is a noted Carthusian monastery. Seville {Hotel de Madrid ; Las Guatro Naciones ; Inglaterra ; De Paris), with 138,000 inhab. , re- quires a long visit. We will not attempt to describe it in details, but will simply indicate the things to see. Seville has kept its ancient character pretty well. Most of its streets are narrow and crooked, and nearly all the houses have their patios, or inner court- yards, separated from the street by vestibules paved with white and black marble, and closed by doors of iron gratings beautifully worked by skilful artisans. The Plaza Nueva is a vast square which in the morn- ing is inundated with sunlight, and is planted with orange-trees, and surrounded on three sides by hotels and boarding-houses, and on the fourth by the Palace of the Ayuntamiento. The Calle de Genova , at the S. W. angle of the square, leads to the Cathedral. — This marvellous ch., with its famous tower of the Giralda, is a city in itself. Nowhere else in Europe is the splendor and majesty of the Catholic SPAIN. 423 religion so well seen as here. The Giralda, a veritable marvel of Arab architecture, was the minaret of the old. mosque of the Moorish Kings, who governed Seville after the destruction of the Khalifate. It was built dur- ing the 12th century by the Arab El Ghebir, who was. the inventor of algebra. The tower is 350 ft, high. In 1568 it was capped with a belfry, which in its turn is; surmounted by an enormous statue of Eaith, which*, despite its immense weight serves as a weather-vane. The Cathedral proper was begun in 1403, finished 1519. The most striking entrance is the Puerta del Perdon , which was probably in old times the entrance to a minaret. It opens on the Orange Court, from which you pass under a fine Arabic arch into the Cathedral by the so-called Lizard Poor. Notice especially the Chief Altar , the Choir, the gigantic Organs , the Tomb of Fernando Columbus , the Camilla Peal , which contains the tomb of St. Ferdinand, and the tomb of Alfonso the Wise : also a portrait of Ferdinand, by Murillo, in the chapel of the Baptistery. Observe the noted picture rep- resenting St. Anthony of Padua, which was cut out of its frame and carried off to New York in 1875, and has now been restored. In the upper sacristy there are also several paintings by the same artist. In the sacristy of Los Calices is a St. Dorothea by Murillo, an “ Ecce Homo 55 by Morales, and a remarkable painting by Goya, in the Sacristia Mag or is the vast and magnificent custodia in silver made in 1587 by Juan de Arfe. It is in the form of a circular temple, crowned with a statue of St. John and covered with a most prodigious number of ornaments and statues. Seville during Holy Week presents a con- stant succession of curious spectacles, religious in character. From the top ^>f the Giralda Tower, which is reached by an inclined plane, up which 424 SEVILLE. — THE ALCAZAR. it is said two horses can be ridden abreast, good view of the town, the river winding through the plains, and the hills beyond. Leaving the Cathedral by the Giralda Boor , you reach the square on which is the Archbishop* s Palace. Thence go round the Cathedral to the Plaza del Triunfo , where is a monument com- memorating the earthquake of 1755. In the middle of this square is the Lonja, where is a precious collection of documents relative to the discovery and conquest of America. This is called the Indian archives. Not far away is The Alcazar. — This is, with the Mosque at Cordova and the Alhambra at Granada, the most beautiful Moorish monument in Spain. It was connected with the great walls that ran round Seville in the time of the Arabs. In the Alcazar were born and died the Kings Alfonso the Wise, Don Sancho IV., and Alfonso XI., father of Don Pedro the Cruel. The local guides, who are very civil and obliging, and satisfied with reasonable pay, will give you full description of the beauties of the Alcazar. Ask the guide to take you through the modem royal rooms, inhabited by the Monarchs of Spain whenever they visit Seville. The gardens of the Alcazar are delightful. The Casa de Pilatos , or House of Pilate, is an edifice built at the beginning of the 16th century, by the first Marquis of Tarifa. He had brought back from a journey made to Jerusalem in 1519 a quantity of earth from the very house of Pontius Pilate, and this was sufficient to form the layer on which were laid the foundations of the present palace, built on the plans of the dwelling of Pilate at Jerusalem, which Rome reproduced. Here take place the scenes of the Passion. There are a great number of curious and interesting palaces and pri- vate houses to be seen in Seville. The Casa de lot SPAIN. 425 T 'aver os, where the tribunal of the Inquisition had its sitting, will attract the traveller’s attention. The guides procure admission for you to the patios of the richest houses, where you can get an idea of the luxury . and beauty of these southern Spanish residences. The Ck. of S. Martino has some good pictures. The Hos- pital of La Caridad , or the Charity, near the Golden Tower, which stands on the bank of the Guadalquivir, contains several of Murillo’s best paintings. The pro- vincial museum is also quite rich in the works of Murillo, Zurbaran, and other noted artists. Murillo was born in Seville, Jan. 1, 1618. The Palace of San Telmo , the residence of the Duke of Montpensier, is one of the marvels of this city. It contains a very beautiful and valuable picture-gallery. Seville is as busy and thriving as Cordova is deserted and shabby. The banks of the Guadalquivir are lined with, ware- houses, and the traffic is very brisk. From Seville, if you adopt our plan for a short Spanish journey, we recommend you to proceed directly to Madrid. If you have not stopped at Cordova on your wav down, but have gone directly through from the Alcazar de S. Juan, as many do, you may halt there on your return journey. Time from Seville to Cordova, nearly 4 hrs. ; fares, 65 r. 60, 49 r. 20, 29 r. 45. From Cordova to Madrid it is 274J M. ; time by ordinary trains, 16 hrs.; fares, 321 r., 171 r., 104 r. 98. The express rates are somewhat higher. In the late summer and autumn months there is an express train, 3 times a week each way, between Madrid and Seville. Between the Alcazar de S. Juan and Madrid is the station of Castillijo, where you may branch off to Toledo, but we do not recommend this. It is better to go to Madrid first ; then to make the Toledo visit a round-trip excur- sion of one day. A little beyond Castillijo is 426 ARANJUEZ. — MADRID. Aranjuez, with refreshment buffet. This is one of the summer residences of the Spanish court. Here is a palace, beautifully situated, commanding an immense view ; but there is little that is architecturally striking in the building. The gardens are quite remarkable. The river Tagus flows through the domain. Madrid (Grand Hotel de la Paix ; Be Borne; Be Paris ; Fonda de los Embajadores ; Be Bristol ; Peninsular; Continental; Oriente), with 405,000 inhab., is the capital of Spain, the residence of the Court, and contains the finest paintings in Europe. John Hay said of Madrid that it was a “capital with malice aforethought/’ by which he alluded to its situation in the midst of a great arid plain, swept in winter by the murderous winds from the mts. We recommend the tourist to devote his chief attention to the museum ; then, if it be necessary, to include the other edifices and collections of Madrid. The Royal Museum contains a vast and absolutely unrivalled collection of the works of the old masters, but they are not very well arranged. Two immense galleries are consecrated to Spanish painters, and oth- ers contain the different Italian, French, Elemish, and Dutch schools. Some idea of the riches of the museum can be formed from the statement that it contains 46 pictures by Murillo, 14 by Zurbaran, 58 by Ribera, 64 by Velasquez, 55 by Teniers, 16 by Rubens, 10 by Raphael, 20 by Poussin, 66 by Luca Giordano, 22 by Van Dyck, 54 by Breughel, 16 by Claude Lorraine, 16 by Guido Reni, 43 by Titian, 54 by Tintoretto, and 25 by Paul Veronese. About half-way down the principal gallery a door opens into an oval hall called the Salon de la Reyna Isabel. Here are grouped together the chefs d' oeuvre of the museum. The guardians are very attentive. Catalogues edited with SPAIN. 42f great care may be had at the booksellers’, or at the museum. In the Academy of San Fernando in the Calle de Alcala there is a collection of about 300 pictures, in 11 large rooms : Murillo, Goya, Rubens, and Zurbaran are well represented. The National Museum is in the old convent of the Trinidad. Here are about 800 paintings. There are several interesting private collections in Madrid. The couriers at the hotels will indicate them to you. The Royal Falace (Palacia Real), is situated in the W. part of the town. Among the 30 rooms on the 1st lloor, the largest and finest is the Hall of the Ambassa- dors. The vault was painted by Tiepolo, and represents the exaltation of the Spanish monarchs. The walls are draped with velvet embroidered with gold, and 12. im- mense mirrors also decorate it. On the r. of the throne, which is guarded by 1 gilded bronze lions, is a statue of Prudence, and on the 1. that of Justice. The chapel is extremely rich, but not very handsome. The library, the theatre, the magnificent collection of Flemish tapes- tries, should be seen. On the S. of the square of the Pa- lacia Real is the Armeria, or Museum of Armor, which will be extremely interesting to Americans. Here are, among many relics of famous dead, the sword of the Cid Campeador, that of the Great Captain, Gon- zalvo of Cordova, and that of Don Juan of Austria: also the helmet of Francis I. The Military Museum of Artillery , at the Buenretiro, is also worth visiting. At the entrance are colossal statues of Philip IV. and Louis I. The museum gives a complete review of the progress made in artillery from the 12th to the 17th century. Here also are many flags carried during the Spanish conquest of America The naval museum, the cabinet of natural history, the botanical garden, the 428 MADRID. library (small but good) deserve a visit. Madrid has several important libraries, most noticeable among which are those of the University and of the legislative bodies. The Palate of the Congress , or Chamber of Deputies, is a handsome building, but not very remarkable. Its interior is very richly ornamented with fine paintings : that of the Senate occupies the old ch. of an Augustin- ian convent. In the great square of the Puerta del Sol is the Ministry of the Interior, formerly a post-office. The other public buildings and the Palaces are rather cold and formal in structure. The effect of the architec- ture of Madrid is not pleasing, compared with the won- derful richness of decoration to which the eye has become accustomed in Southern Spain. See in the Plaza Mayor the equestrian statue of Philip III. ; and in the Plaza de Orient e the statue of Philip IV. In the Plaza de las Cortes is a statue of Cervantes. None of the chs. of the Spanish capital is particularly strik- ing : there is not even a cathedral here. The Ch . of the A toe ha at the E. end of the Prado contains the tombs of General Castanos, of Marshal Prim, and of other notabilities. Here the marriages of the Royal family are celebrated, and here the troops take the oath of allegiance. The cemeteries in the neighborhood of Madrid, with their long rows of walls in which the dead are sealed up, are very interesting. The Plaza di Toros , or the Bull Ring of Madrid, is one of the largest in the kingdom. It is a structure in Arabic style, built of brick, stone, and iron, and can seat 12,300 people. Every seat is numbered, and tickets to the bull-fights, which are usually given every Monday from April to October, are comparatively inexpensive. Be careful in choosing your place to note whether it is on the shady or the sunny side. This is very important in Spain. SPAIN. 429 The comic opera and some of the minor theatres should be visited. The Prado is a large boulevard which runs round a great part of the city, from the old Atocha gate to the Puerta de Recoletos. The Royal Museum is on this boulevard. Here on summer evenings is a magnificent display of Spanish beauty : commemorative monument here to the second of May, one of the epi- sodes of the French occupation of 1808. There are numerous other fine promenades within the city. The Puerta de Alcala , an arch of triumph to commemorate the entry of Charles III. into Madrid, may be seen on the way to the Bull Ring. The Puerta de Toledo was built to celebrate the return of Ferdinand. VII. from his captivity. The Plaza de San Vicente is quite fine. There are several bridges over the little river Manza- nares, wdiich oddly enough is for the greater part of the year without any water in its channel. The tobacco factory in the Calle de Embaj adores employs 3,000 workmen. About 7 M. from Madrid, on the r. bank of the Manzanares, is the Royal Palace of the Pardo. Excursion to the Escurial may be made. It is 31^ M. from Madrid ; five trains daily ; fares, 25 r. 50, 19 r. 25, 11 r. 50. The Escurial is called by the Spaniards the eighth wonder of the world. Philip II. built it in 1685 to commemorate the taking of St. Quentin, and to ac- complish a vow which he made to St. Lawrence. This vast building has 15 principal entrances, and more than 1,100 windows. It is entirely built of granite, and its appearance is monotonous and cold. The ch., the Capilla Mayor, filled with royal monuments, the sac- risty, a vast vaulted hall with a marble altar orna- mented with bronze, the choir, and the pantheon or vault, where the kin^s of Spain are buried, are the prin- cipal things to see. You reach the pantheon by a magnificent staircase of colored marbles. The urn con- 4:30 TOLEDO. taining the remains of Charles V. was opened in 1870, and the body was even then in perfect preservation. The Library of books and the MS. Library will^attract the attention of scholars. The main entrance to the palace is in the middle of the N. fapade. See the Hall of Battles , covered with frescos representing Spanish conquests; and the apartments in which Philip II. lived and died. The Pavilion of Charles IV., called the Casa del Principe , is a charming little museum of paintings, sculptures, and mosaics. See the King's Seat , where Philip II. came to sit when presiding over the work of the palace. The royal abode of La Granja is on the route from Madrid to Segovia. Its apartments are said to be even more splendid than those of the palace at Madrid. There are two routes from Madrid to the ancient and picturesque town of Toledo. One leads through the royal residence town of Aranjuez; the other is a little more direct ; fares about the same by both lines. Toledo (Hotels: Fonda de Lino ; Fonda Comer do ; Norte ; Imperial; Casa Figuerons) is one of the most remarkable towns in Europe. The rly. stat. is in the valley at the foot of the hill, near the fine Alcantara Bridge. An omnibus takes passengers from the train to the top of the hill. On the way up observe the fine view in the valley, where old Toledo, which was a town of 200,000 inhab., was situated. The Toledo of to-day has only about 20,000. The river Tagus makes a great curve around the town. It is crossed by the Alcantara and the S. Martino Bridges, The aspect of the city is majestic. Immense ramparts on the rocks ; great gates flanked with Moorish towers : old Puerta Visagra , which dates from the Arabic domination ; the celebrated Puerta del Sol, in the interior of the city, a chef d' oeuvre of Arabic architecture, are all impressive. The prim SPAIN. 431 cipal square is the old Zocodover , to-day called the Place of the Constitution. The principal objects of interest are the Cathedral , the Alcazar the celebrated Ch. and Convent of S. Juan de los Reyes , and a military college. The Cathedral was begun in 1227, and finished centuries later. Its architecture is pure Gothic: exterior of great majesty. The principal W. front has 3 doors, called those of the Infiarma , the Perdon, and the Juicio. The Door of the Pardon is the largest and richest. To the r. of the fa£ade is the tower : on the 1. the Mozarabic chapel. The tower is nearly 300 ft. high, and the great hell in it weighs nearly 40,000 lbs. The beauties of the Cathedral are so numerous that we renounce a detailed description of them here. Observe particularly the Door of the Lions and its rich chapels, the Camilla Mayor , the wonderful effect of the vast range of stained-glass windows, especially when the sun is shining through them in the morning, the Coro, and the beautiful Gothic portal of the Sala Capitular. The Tombs of the Constable Don Alvaro de Lima and of the Cardinal de Albornoz are very imposing. The Ch. of S. Juan de los Reyes (1477) .is ornamented with a great number of chains hung on the walls out- side, memorials of captivities among Moslems. The cloister, now in ruinous condition, was one of the most beautiful in the world. The stone sculptures here are of extraordinary delicacy and finish. The provincial museum contains a collection of about 300 pictures. S. Maria la Blanca is a curious memorial of the Jewish epoch. The Military College contains about 600 cadets, who study their profession here from the age of 13 to 18 years. The Alcazar ,s a superb edifice which crosses the highest point of the hill on which the city is built. At the 4 angles of its walls are square towers. The courtyard is formed of 32 arcades. The staircase 432 VALLADOLID. — BURGOS. is one of the richest works of its kind. It is impossi- ble to see Toledo in less than a single day. See the Paseo de las Rosas ; the Paseo de Madrid. Valladolid ( Francia , Calle de Teresa Gil; Siglo,V\2i- za de S. Ana) is the next place of interest; although from the junction of Medina del Campo you can go by branch lines to the old university town of Sala- manca, or to Zamora. Valladolid is a town of 55,000 inhab., on the Pisuerga. Here see University , Acad- emy of Fine Arts , Museum , Royal Palace, and many scientific institutions. The Royal Palace contains many curious objects. The old Palace of the Inqui- sition is to-day occupied by the Courts of Appeals. In the University are a series of portraits of the kings of Spain. The Museum of Valladolid is only secondary to the museums of Madrid and Seville. Here are fine examples of the works of Rubens, Mascagni, Carducci, and Cardenas. The principal treasure of the museum is a magnificent custodia, or tabernacle, in silver. Burgos (Hotels : Fonda del Norte ; Paris), with 32,000 inhab., may be seen in a short time. Notice the Bronze Statue of Charles III. ; the celebrated Casa del Cordon ; the Ancient Palace, covered with sculp- tures ; the Fspolon, beautifully decorated, with 3 fine alleys bordered with trees, filled with statues, gardens, and fountains ; the Cathedral , one of the marvels of the 13th century. Its portal and 2 clock-towers are of Goth- ic architecture. The principal fapade towards the W. is a marvel of stone lacework. The interior is magnifi- cent, and ornamented with ^pictures, statues, tombs, sculptures, bas-reliefs, etc. Observe the Tomb of the Constable Castille. In the Ch. of S . Fstehan is a very fine Cena. Notice the Triumphal Arch raised by Philip II. to Pernando Gonzales : also the house of the Cid, or the monument erected in 1784 on the ruins of that SPAIN. 433 house. In the City Hall are the remains of the Great Captain and of his wife, enclosed in a sculptured wooden coffin. The Arch of S. Maria is very handsome. Many fine excursions in the vicinity of Burgos. The towns of Vittoria , , Pamplona , Bilbao , and San Sebastian (the pretty watering-place frequented in late years by English and Americans) all deserve at- tention ; but the tourist will hardly find time to stop at any of them. The frontier of France is reached at Irun ; fares from Madrid to Irun, 315 r. 50, 226 r. 25, 142 r. Spanish time is 25 min. slower than French time. There is little of importance to see in Irun : memorials of the Carlist civil war in all this neighborhood. Hendaye is the first French station. A little beyond it is S. Jean de Luz. The old town of Fontarabia may be reached from Irun. Next comes Biarritz ( Maison Garderes ; De France ; Campagne ; H Angleterre ; Des Princes ; Des Ambas- sadeurs ; De T Europe ; good Casino here ; omnibus to Bayonne every half hour), one of the most popular sea- side resorts on the S. coast of France. It was a favorite resort of the Empress Eugenie. Bayonne, 23f M. from Irun ( Hotel du Commerce ; St. Etienne ; Des Ambassadeurs ; De France; Castille ), with 27,000 inhab., is at the confluence of the Adour and the Nive. Fine stained glass windows in the Cat he dral , 15th century. The Place Grammont contains the Theatre , the Maine , and the Custom Home. Good view of the sea from the citadel. The bayonet was invented here, whence its name. Fares from Bayonne to Irun, 4 fr. 65 c., 3 fr. 45 c.. 2 fr. 60 c. 28 434 LISBON. PORTUGAL. W E have thought it probable that the vacation tourists would not be likely to push their jour- ney as far as Lisbon, but we give a short paragraph con- cerning the journey to Portugal. Pares from Madrid to Badajos, %7\\ M., 299 r. 50, 227 r. 91, 145 r. 87. Prom Badajos to Lisbon it is 174J M., 5,260 reis, 4,100 1 \, 2,930 r. ; time, 10 lirs. ; 2 trains a day. Lisbon time is 25 min. slower than that of Madrid. The reis, the Portuguese monetary unit, is about \ centime, or 2|- mills : each franc is therefore worth 200 reis. The conto de reis, or a million of reis, is 500 francs. The Spanish real, 25 centimes, is 46 reis. On the way from Badajos to Lisbon you pass through Santarem , where there are many curious remains of the Moorish architecture of the Middle Ages. Lisbon, in Portuguese Lisboa ( Hotel Frangais or Grand Hotel Centrale , situated on the Bay ; Universal ; Braganga ; Durand , moderate charges), with 260,000 inhab., is on the r. bank of the river Tagus, built in an amphitheatre on numerous hills. The general view of Lisbon on approaching it by river or by rail is magnificent. The finest streets are those of the Duto do Braga Augusta , the Chiado , and Alecrim. The Commercial Square, Braga do Commercio, has the largest and most remarkable public buildings in the city. It is also called the Esplanade of the Hills. In the middle is the colossal equestrian bronze statue . of Jose I. On 3 sides of the square are sumptuous buildings, the Exchange , the Custom House , the India Office, the Ministries, etc. On the middle of the N. side, PORTUGAL. 435 magnificent Triumphal Arch. The Cathedral , the Chs. of S. Antonio , of S. Roque, of the Carmelites, and many con- vents have rich collections of art treasures. In the Palace das Necessidades is a good collection of old porcelain, furniture, etc. The King lives in the Ajuda Palace , an imposing edifice : botanical garden near by. Observe the beautiful aqueduct which crosses the Al- cantara Yalley. The National Museum, 200,000 vols., 10,000 MSS. ; the Archives , the Royal Conservatory of Music , and the Academy of Fine Arts, as well as the Italian Opera and the Doha Maria II. Theatre should be seen. There are but few remains of old Lisbon, which was destroyed by the great earthquake The Belem possesses a great many fine gardens. The old Belem Monastery is worth a visit. Ramathao , the Almada Mafra, a vast convent cli., and the Palace of Cintra, where is an old castle of the Moors, are the principal suburban points for excursions. From Lisbon there is weekly steam communication with South America, with the East, and with England. K. journey may be made to Oporto, taking Coimbra on the way. Fares to Oporto, 6,610 reis, 5,110 r., 3,680 r. ; time, 1L| hrs. ; distance, 158J M. Coimbra (Hotel : Hospedaria de Caes Novo) is on the r. bank of the Mondego and has a most delicious climate. It is very rich in poetic tradition and has numerous manufactures of faience. The Homans made it one of their most important military posts. To- day the remains of the old walls are still to be seen. University, with 900 students here. The old Cathedral is Byzantine, and quite rich in character. The Chapel of the Twelve Apostles is remarkable. There is a chapel in it named after the poet Camoens. In the convent eh. of S. Clara are the tombs of the first kings of Portugal. 436 OPORTO.— PAU. Oporto {Hotel Centrale ; Grand Hotel; Hotel du Loucre), with 90,000 inhab., is the second city of Por- tugal. It is built on 2 hills, and the valleys which ex- tend between these are filled with charming villas and country-houses. The effect of the Quintas , or Terraces, is quite delightful. The Cathedral, or La Se, is not especially striking. The town is divided into 3 quar- ters, the oldest of which, San Martinho, has but little of importance. The Royal Hospital , the Ch. Dos Cleri- aos (with its high tower), the elegant theatre, the great barracks, the Episcopal Palace, the Ch. of Our Lady of Lapa, where the heart of the Emperor Dom Pedro is preserved, and the interior of the Ch. of S. Francisco ; also the libraries, 65,000 vols., the Exchange , and the Museum, merit brief attention. Oporto is a thriving commercial town. Erom Lisbon to Fvora it is 72 M. ; fares 3,120 r., 2,390 r., 1,610 r. Evora is a highly fortified city of 12,000 inhab., in the midst of beautiful fields filled with orange, olive, and fig groves. Many Roman antiquities here. Erom Lisbon a rly. runs to Faro, 169^ M. Faro, on the S. coast of Portugal, is a small town of 10,000 inhab., with a good cathedral ; fine military hos- pital, large and well-built streets, and an excellent port. Just opposite it, in the Atlantic Ocean, is a small group of islands. Erom Bayonne it is 65f M. (fares, 13 fr., 9 fr. 75 c., 7 fr. 20 c.) to Fau ( Hotel Gassion, a splendid edifice which cost $400,000 ; De France ; Beau Sejour ; De la Poste ; Grand Hotel ; De la Paix ; De V Europe ; Du Commerce; Henri 1 V. ; De la Dorade. Restaurants : Gassion, Com- merce, De la Dorade), with 29,000 inhab. , is one of the most important towns in the lower Pyrenees, and is a favorite winter resort because of its delicious climate. FRANCE. 437“ Life is rather expensive at Pau, but there are a great number of strangers there yearly ; abundance of beauti- fully furnished apartments to be had. The town is divided into 2 parts by the little brooklet called the Gave, over which there are 5 bridges. The Castle of Henri IF. (open daily except Mon. from 10 to noon, and from 2 to 4 p.m.), near Pau, is well worth visiting. Magnificent Flemish tapestries made by order of Francis I., in the great Hall of the States. The Ch. of S. Martin , modern ; the Palace of Justice ; the Museum (open Thurs. aud Sun., from 1 to 5, free, and every day for a small fee) ; the Place Roy ale, with a statue of Henri IV., may all readily be seen in a few hours. From Pau 24 M. rly. to Laruns, thence omnibus to Eaux-Bon- nes ( Hotel des Princes ; De France ; He Richelieu) and Eaux-Chaudes. The former town receives between & and 10,000 invalids and tourists annually : vast bathing establishments here, also Casino, concert halls, theatre, reading-rooms, etc. The thermal establishment at Eaux-Chaudes ( Hotel Baudot ; He France) is one of the best arranged in the Pyrenees. The waters are especially successful in catarrh, rheumatism, and skin diseases. For full description of this Pyrenean bath region we cannot do better than to refer you to the work on the Pyrenees by Adolphe and Paul Joanne, published by Hachette, Paris. Cauterets {Hotel Continental ; He France ; H’ An- gleterre ; Hu Parc) may be reached via Pau and Tarbes. There are 24 springs here and 9 bathing establishments ; about 20,000 tourists visit Cauterets annually. Beautiful excursions in the neighborhood. Going N., after leaving Bayonne, the first place of importance is Bordeaux {Hotel de France; He Bayonne; He Nice; Des Princes et de la Paix ; Continental; 438 BORDEAUX. Richelieu ; Bes Ambassadeurs ), with 240,000 inhab., a beautiful town on the 1. bank of the Garonne. The city takes the form of a crescent, which it bears on its coat of arms. The Garonne River here is very wide and deep, and navigable for nearly all classed of steamships. See the Bordeaux bridge?, built in 1810, from which admirable view of the river, and its banks lined with palaces, warehouses, and shops. The Place de la Comedie , on which stands a great theatre, is the principal rendezvous for strangers. All the principal hotels are in this neighborhood ; but the largest of all the squares in Bordeaux is the Place des Quinconces. Here are the Rostral Columns, surmounted by statues of Com- merce and Navigation. There are also marble statues here of Montaigne and of Montesquieu ; an equestrian .statue of Napoleon III., which stood in the Tourny alley, was taken down in 1870. The oldest monument in Bordeaux is an amphitheatre called the Palais Gallien. This is supposed to have been built by the Romans, in the 3d century. The Cathedral of S. Andre was con- secrated in 1090 ; rebuilt at different epochs ; and is now being restored. Near the Cathedral is the Bell Tower of Pey-Berland, so called after the Bishop who built it, in 1440. The ch. of S. Michel , founded 1160, belongs to the ogival order. It also has an isolated bell tower. The ancient ch. of S. Croix has a rich facade recently restored. The Palace of Justice has numerous statues of noted Trench men. In the vestibule of the court stands a statue of Montesquieu. Many of the other public buildings are adorned with sculptures and paintings. The great Theatre has a fine vestibule orna- mented with Ionic columns. It was in this theatre that the National Assembly held its sessions in 1871, and that the nation resolved to make peace with the Prus- sians. The Museum , founded 1803, has about 600 FRANCE. 439 pictures of moderate merit ; catalogue, 5b c. ; museum open Sun., Mon., and Thurs., 10-3 ; other days small fee. See Library, 200,000 vols., the Museum of Antiquities and the Museum of Natural History, also the Bonie Museum. In the chapel of the Lycee, on the Cours des Torres, is the tomb of Mon- tesquieu. Bordeaux is a very important commercial port: steam navigation with South America, Russia, Holland, England and Ireland, New York, and New Orleans. The public garden is a pretty promenade. The watering-places of Bagneres de Big or re and Bagn- eres de Louchon may both be conveniently reached from Bordeaux. Erom Bordeaux it is 34f M. (fares, 4 fr. 65 c., 3 fr. 55 c., 2 fr. 45 c.) to Arcachon ( Grand Hotel Legallais ; Be France ; Richelieu; dampy). This is a charming seaside resort on the Bay of Biscay ; and in the pine forest which stretches along the coast are a great number of winter villas. The Casino is a charming palace with Moresque cupolas and minarets. About 100,000 persons visit Arcachon annually. Erom Bordeaux it is 159^- M. (time, 5| hrs., fares, 31 fr. 65 c., 23 fr. 75 e., 17 fr. 40 c.) to Toulouse {Hotel Tiv oilier ; Be L Europe ; Souville), with 147,000 inhab. This is the old capital of Lan- guedoc, on the r. bank of the Garonne. There is but little of interest to the tourist here except the Cathedral of St. Etienne and the Museum (founded 1792) of an- tiquities, pictures, and plaster casts. Erom Bordeaux to Paris it is 358| M. ; time, about 9 hrs. by express ; fares, 72 fr. 5 c., &4 fr. 5 c., 39 fr. 65 c. You pass through Angouleme, Poitiers, Tours, and Orleans. Angouleme {Hotel du Palais; de France), on the Cha- rente, is an old town built on a rocky hill, and has a 440 VICHY. — AIX-LES-BAINS. fine Gothic Cathedral , Theatre , a Cabinet of Natural History, and a good Library. Poitiers {Hotel du Palais ; Be V Europe ; Be France) is near the river Clain. Its finest square is the Place d’Armes. Cathedral in Gothic style, with very lofty halls. Interesting ch. of S. Hilaire, also the Byzantine .Notre Dame ; many Homan antiquities here ; Palace of Justice, with room much like Westminster Hall in London. The English held this town 300 years. 4M from Poitiers is the battle-field where the Black Prince defeated the French under John, in 1356. Orleans and Tours , see pages 197-198. Two of the most celebrated of French summer- Tesorts are Vichy and Aix-les-Bains, both of which are ^easily reached from Lyons. Vichy {Hotel des Ambassadeurs ; Du Cherbourg ; Du Parc ; Des Princes; Mombrun; De Richelieu; Du Louvre ) is on the banks of the Allier, in a pretty valley enclosed in an amphitheatre of hills. It is the most popular watering-place in France. Wonderful cures of gout and rheumatism are reported from Vichy. Bath- ing season begins May 1 and ends October 1. The old town, with its ruined walls and ancient towers, is striking. Most of the hotels are around or near the old Park, at one end of which is the bathing establish- ment, and at the other the Casino. Aix-les-Bains ( Grand Hotel d’Aix ; Be V Europe ; Du Globe; De V Univers ; Des Voyageurs ; De la Poste; Du Parc) is a very popular watering-place in Savoy, 8 M. from Cliambery. Nine sulphur springs here effect very important cures. See Roman remains ; Casino and Baths ; English church. Beautiful excur- sions to the source of the Marlizo ; to the Abbey of Haute Combe , where are the tombs of the House of Savoy; to the Nivolet ; to the Mollard Garden ; to the Cascade ; to Gresy ; and. to the Annecy. COPENHAGEN. 441 A TOUR IN THE NORTH. F ROM Hamburg, in Germany (see page 239), you may, if time permits, make a tour of great interest in tlie North. We will for the present con- tent ourselves with briefly laying down some skeleton routes for a short journey through portions of Den- mark, Norway, Sweden, and Russia. You may begin your trip by going to the chief city in Denmark. From Hamburg to the German naval depot of Kiel it is 3 hrs. by rail; from Kiel to Korsor by steamer 6| hrs. ; and from Korsor it is 4J hrs. to Copenhagen. Or you may go all the way by rail from Hamburg to Copenhagen, by Schleswig, 220 M., in 16 hrs. (fares, 45 mks., 35 mks. 10 pf.). Practical Information. — The money in Denmark, Norway, and Sweden is reckoned in krone (k.) and ore, or 0re (6.). An English sovereign is worth about 18 k. — Steamboat schedules are frequently altered : remember this in making plans. — The best season for travelling in these countries is from June to mid-Sep- tember. — For a journey to the North Cape, select June or July. — The fjords of the Western Coast of Norway should be seen if possible. See Baedeker, and an ex- cellent Guide du Voyageur , published in Stockholm, for detailed trips. Copenhagen (Phoenix ; King of Denmark ; W An- rjleterre ), the capital of Denmark (330,000 inhab.), stands upon the E. coast of Zealand, and is enclosed in a line of fortifications, now used as a promenade. The panorama of batteries, docks, stores, and arsenals, as seen from the sea, is quite imposing. The E. 442 COPENHAGEN. part of the harbor is protected by the Castle of Frederikshavn. Part of the city is built on the small Island of Amager , and is called Christianshavn . The channel between the two islands forms the port. Copenhagen has a great number of palaces and public buildings, and 2-3 days may well be spent in inspect- ing the art collections. The royal residences are quite numerous. Amalienborg , the chief house of the royal family, consists of 4 small palaces. That next to the Colonnade is the king’s ; the second is the Foreign Office ; and the others pertain to the queen dowager and the crown prince. Bronze Statue of Fi'edierickV. in the square. The Royal Chapel faces the ruins of the Christiansborg Palace, burned down in 1884. The handsome 3-towered Gothic Rosetiborg Castle is in the centre of the King’s garden. There see Chronological collection of the Danish Kings ■ — rooms dedicated to each king, and filled with relics of his life and deeds. The Audience Chamber of Christian IV. ; the golden cups ; the bedroom in which Christian IV. died, in 1648 ; the Marble Hall ; the beautiful room called the Rose ; and the Turret Chamber are the other curiosities. Observatory near this palace. Frederiksberg Pal- ace (now a military school) is 1 M. out, in a beau- tiful park. Zoological Gardens near by, In the Fruekirke (Ch. of Our Lady) are famous sculp- tures by Thorwaldsen; and in an alcove his coffin was placed at the funeral, while the royal family stood bareheaded round it. The ch. was injured by the English bombardment in 1807. See Thorwaldsen’s Baptismal Font ; also two bas- reliefs— the Baptism of Christ and the Last Supper. COPENHAGEN. 443 The greatest curiosity in Copenhagen is Thorwald- seris Museum , built by subscription to contain casts of all his works and many originals (catalogues at hotels and at museum). In room 42 are Thorwaldsen’s last unfinished works. In the Prindsens- Palais are various popular collections ; the Ethnographic Museum , the Mu- seum of Northern Antiquities, etc. The last (open, free, every Thurs., 12-2) is the largest and most complete in Europe. The royal collection of engravings is open, free, Tues. and Eri., 11-2. Visitors should see the Arsenal , close to the Christiansborg Palace (open Wed., 1-3). Royal Library (550,000 vols.) close by. Beautiful new equestrian statue in bronze opposite the palace. The Exchange , the Museum of Natural History , the University , Library , the Ch. of the Trinity , with its famous Round Tower (built by Christian IV.), Count Moltke’s collection of pictures (Wed., 12-2), and the pretty theatres are enough to keep visitors busily oc- cupied for a week. — Near Copenhagen is Charlotten- lund , a country house, inhabited in summer by some member of the royal family. Pretty drives hereabouts. To the Deer Park , a royal preserve, filled with vast herds of stags, red deer, and fallow deer ; and to Hurs - holm , where once stood a superb palace built by Chris- tian VI. Not far away is the Island of Hveen y where the astronomer Tycho Brahe resided. Sentimental travellers may wish to visit Elsinore ( Oresund Hotel), 30 M. from Copenhagen, easily reached by rail or steamer in 2 hrs. The Castle and the Cathedral are the chief sights. Marienlyst, N. of the town, is a sea-bathing establishment. Here on a terrace among some trees is shown a mound, called the grave of Hamlet (see Murray’s ‘‘Denmark”). Hamlet’s identification with this spot is founded on very slight ELSINORE. — MALMO. 444 proof. Near Elsinore is Gurre , a famous residence of many Danish kings. RoesJcilde was the most impor- tant town in Denmark, and remained a royal residence from the 10th to the 15th century. The Cathedral is the finest building of its kind in Denmark. In its N. aisle, Saxo Grammaticus, the chronicler, is buried. Erom Copenhagen, those persons who do not wish to visit Norway can go by steamer 4 times daily in l^hrs. (16 M.) to Malmo ( Kramer’s Hotel ; Danmark ; Horn ; Stockholm ), on the Swedish coast, and thence by rly. in 16 hrs. (one through train daily at 2:40 P. M. fares, 52 k. 5 5., 37 k. 65 o.) to the Swedish capital, Stockholm . Mahno (45,000 inhab.) was during the Hanseatic period the chief commercial town on the Sound. Both well, Mary Stuart’s third husband, was imprisoned in the castle here, 1573-78. Charles XY. died here. On the way to Stockholm you pass through Lund (Stadshuset ; Skandinavien) , where is the finest cathedral in Scandinavia, founded in the lltli century. See old University buildings here ; and near the Cathe- dral a Statue of Tegner , who composed many of his poems at Lund. His study is shown to visitors. Linkoping ( Stora Hotellet ) also has a noble ch., built 1150-1499. Notice Norrkoping , near Stockholm. GOTHENBURG. — CHRISTIANIA. 445 NORWAY. We think our travellers will prefer to visit Norway on the way to Sweden, rather than to neglect such an excellent chance; and we shall therefore recommend them to go from Copenhagen to Christiania (semi- weekly steamers, touching at Gothenburg; time, 47 hrs.; fares small). The traveller can go from Gothenburg to Stockholm by rail (13 hrs.; fares, 38 k. 65 6., 27 k. 95 6.), if he changes his mind about Norway. Gothenburg (Ha gland' s ; Gota Kallare ; Chris- tiania) is a busy and pleasant commercial town of 90,000 inhab., on the Gotaelf. Excellent harbor, rarely closed by ice. The first impulse given to Gothenburg was during the continental blockade, when it formed the depot of English trade with Northern Europe. The Exchange , the Town Hall , the Christinakyrka , the Statue of Gttstavus Adolphus , the Museum (open daily), the Cathedral (consecrated in 1815), and the pretty garden with hothouse and exotic plants near the Wall- graf \ comprise the chief features of the town. Those who wish to go from Gothenburg to Stockholm by the steamer can do so (Tues., Eri., and Sat.; fares, 25, 17, and 12 k.). Christiania {Grand Hotel ; Victoria; Skandinavie ; Britannia ; Royal), the capital of Norway, has 149,000 inhab. Steamships from London, Holland, Hamburg, etc., land their passengers on the two quays near the Custom House (porterage from the steamer, 30-40 6. ; cabs to the hotel, 40, 60, 80 6.) Christiania is charm- ingly situated at the N. end of a fjord. It was founded by (and named for) Christian IV. in 1624. It is the seat of government and of the supreme court of Norway ; and the Norwegian Parliament also sits here. The JJ nicer- 446 CHRISTIANIA AND SUBURBS. sity, National Picture-Gallery, Observatory , and Royal Palace will occupy the attention for a day. E. of the market-place is the Ch. of Our Saviour , consecrated in 1697, restored in 1849. Near this edifice is the famous Steam Kitchen for the poor classes, where economical dinners are cooked for 2,000 people daily. The Theatres , the Freemasons’ Lodge, the Akershus, the Fortress (many centuries old), are all within an easy walk of each other. The Akershus was besieged by Duke Eric of Sweden in 1310, and in 1716 by the famous Charles XII., who was signally defeated a little later by the Norwegian naval hero Tordenskjold. Good views from the ram- parts. See the Fidsvolds Plads, the pretty square planted with trees, E. of which is the Parliament Edifice. This has a handsome fa9ade, flanked with granite lions (fee to enter). The summer session ends in June. The National Gallery (Sun. and Thurs., 12-2, free; at other times, fee) was founded in 1837, and contains 260 pictures. In room 6 see reliefs by Thorwaldsen. The Trinity Ch ., the Gamle Akers Kirke, - — the oldest ch. in Christiania, founded in the 11th century, — the monument to Wergeland, the most famous of Nor- wegian poets, and the view from St. John s Hill should not be forgotten. In the University , founded 1811, there are numerous collections of interest. It has 1,000 students, and a library of 250,000 vols. The Royal Palace is a large plain edifice, with handsome portico, on a hill in the Slots Park. The Festal Hall , the Throne Room, and Audience Chamber are beautifully adorned. In front is an equestrian , Statue of Charles XIV. The School of Resign and the Palaishavens Pa- vilion, where there is a collection of engravings and drawings, are the only other important sights. Suburbs. — See Oscarshall (tickets and information free at the hotels), a castle built for King Oscar in THRONDHJEM. 447 1847, with works of Swedish and Norwegian artists. Noble view from the roof. Also visit the JEgeberg. There is direct steam communication between Chris- tiania and Hull, 3 days ; London, 4 days ; Havre, 4 days ; Hamburg, 36 hrs. ; Lubeck, 48 hrs. ; and twice a month to New York. Brief Excursions in Norway. General Notes. — On all the fjords, and along the coast of Norway, there are excellent steamboat lines, and travel in this way is comparatively cheap. The food is usually good. Beer is the national drink. The rigid tem- perance laws of Norw r ay make it impossible to obtain spirits on the steamboats or at most of the principal railway restau- rants. On the lakes there is usually a service 3 times a day. All Norway is covered with a network of excellent routes ; and there are few more pleasant ways of travelling than in the post-chaise among the mountains and beside the fjords, if the traveller he prudent enough to look out for his relays of horses. It is only on the most frequented routes that one can get carriages and horses to make a long journey. The driver generally takes care of himself and his horses for a fixed sum. Carriages can carry 3 or 4 persons, with bag- gage. The relay service is very well arranged, and there will be no occasion for complaint if you always send a tele- gram ahead. The charges for the horses and carriages are by the mile, and are moderate. On the lakes the rowers also work for a fixed tariff. The amount of baggage is also determined by regulation. Throndhjem (Britannia ; D’ Angleterre ; Bellevue ; Victoria ), the ancient Nidaros , and the third city in Norway, has 24,000 inliab. Here the Norwegian kings were crowned in the Middle Ages. Formerly the capi- tal of the kingdom ; and its cathedral (open daily, free, 12-1), the finest in the North, was once a great resort 448 BERGEN. — HAMMERFEST. for pilgrims. It is built of a bluish chlorite slate, with which the marble columns form an admirable contrast. In the 11th and 12th centuries this cli. was the burial- place of the kings ; and here Charles XIV., Oscar I., Charles XV., and Oscar II. were crowned. You may go from Christiania to Throndhjem by rail, but the jour- ney is tedious, and we recommend the carriage route, or the steamboat voyage around the coast. From Christiania to Bergen is a favorite excursion. On the Strandefjord is the noted Fa gernces Hotel, a great resort for tourists. Bergen (HoldC s Hotel ; Ska?idinavie) is on a hilly peninsula and isthmus, with handsome high mts. in the background. The town (39,000 inhab.) was founded by King Olaf in 1070, on the site of an old royal residence. Many great battles have been fought in its neighborhood. See Kongshall, Valkendorf Tower, and Fishmarket (on Wed. ana Sat., 8-10 a.m.). The Museum has very good collections. The best view of the town is from the Floifjeld, N.E. of the harbor. The overland route from Bergen to Molde is interesting for leisurely tourists. Another good excursion is from Christiania to Kongs - berg, the Falls of Rjukan, the Hardangerfjord, and to Bergen. Still another is from Christiania to Vadso , along the coast. From Vadso, those who have time may push on to Hammerfest {Jansen's Hotel), the most northern city in the world. It is built along the shores of a little bay, protected by a peninsula from the fury of the N. winds. From a mountain in the neighborhood there is an extensive view over the glaciers of Sejland and Soro. Hence travellers can usually see the midnight sun in midsummer. Those who wish to visit the North Cape should remember that the sole attraction of the journey consists in the bleakness and solemnity of the scenery. A steamer STOCKHOLM. 449 usually leaves Hamburg on Mon. morning, arriving at Vadso Wed. afternoon and at Hammerfest on Sat. evening. SWEDEN. You may go by rail in 5 \ hrs. (fares, 10 k. 55 6, 7 k. 55 6., 4 k. 806.) to Charlottenberg (Railway Restau- rant), on the Swedish frontier; change carriages here, and thence in 14-18 hrs. (fares, 80 k. 40 6., 22 k. 35 6., 14 k. 20 6. ; express rates a trifle higher) to Stockholm ( Grand Hotel ; Rydberg ; Rung Karl; Rung Karls Annex ; W. 6, pronounced vay sex ; Be France ; Scandinavia; Stettin; Be Suede, in the town properly so called; Frankfurt ; Berlin. Room from 1 k, 50 o. to 8 k. per day. Good restaurants in the principal hotels. In the southern faubourg, Feligan ; fine view over Stockholm and its environs. Good music at Blanch's Cafe every evening. The principal bank, Riks- banken , at Jern Torget. Population, 230,000. Sea com- munication with Stettin, Lubeck, Copenhagen, Amster- dam, London, St. Petersburg, Bordeaux, and Finland, by comfortable steamships and boats. Carriages at all rly. stats. Day price, 1 k. for 1-2 persons for single drive; Ik. 25 6. for 3-4 persons; from 11 p.m. to 6 a.m., 50 per cent increase. Trips to suburbs at moderate rates. Baggage, 20-50 6.; omnibus, 15 6.). The capital of Sweden is situated on the banks of Lake Malar, where it empties into the Baltic Sea, and occu- pies two peninsulas and many islands, joined by hand- some bridges. Old travellers say that Stockholm’s situation is the most beautiful in Europe, after that o: Constantinople. The city is divided into six parts: the Staden , or city, formed by the islands of Stadsholmen, Riddarliolmen, and Helgeandsholmen, the narrowest and least agreeable part of Stockholm, but the most 29 450 PRINCIPAL SIGHTS IN STOCKHOLM. animated, and the commercial centre; Norrmalm, the N. section, with the island of Blasieliolmen; Ladugards- landet , a quarter built in the reign of Queen Christina; Kungsholmen (King’s Island) ; Sodermalm , the S. fau- bourg; and Saltsj'6-Oarne , composed of four islands. The oldest chroniclers give to the town the name which it bears to-day, — stock signifying straight, and holme, island. See local guide at bookstores for the romantic legends connected with the origin of Stockholm. Tine views from the Mosebacke ; from Kastellholmen ; from the Observatory, ; from the Tower of Jacob's Ch. ; from By strom's Villa ; and from the Tivoli. Principal Sights. — In the city Staden: the Royal Falace, — burned in 1697, and rebuilt in 1753, — one of the finest in Europe, on an eminence close to junction of lake and sea. Vast panorama from the terrace. View of the city and the innumerable bits of water, the majestic mountains, forests, and green plains. Cost of palace, 10,500,000 k. See the N. facade and the Gus- tavus Adolphus Flace. Here is the Lejonsbacken , a stair- case ornamented with huge bronze lions. The front portico is decorated with the Swedish arms, — 3 bronze crowns, supported by a figure of Renown. The S., W.', and E. fapades have beautiful works of art. The chapel, 128 ft. long by 50 ft. wide, has fine marble columns and richly decorated walls. The pulpit, sculptured and gilded, is supported by the 4 symbols of the Evan- gelists, — the angel, eagle, lion, and ox. The altar-piece represents Jesus at Gethsemane. The Hall of State, 143 ft. long, 51 ft. wide, is by Tessin. See silver throne given to Queen Christina by Magnus Gabriel; and statues of Gustavus II. and Charles XIY. by By strom. Here the king opens and closes the Diet in presence of the two chambers of the kingdom. The interior of the palace is visible in summer ; small fee. See the cere- STOCKHOLM. 451 monial halls where great festivals are held : Audience Chamber ; fine ceiling by Bouquet ; magnificent cande- labra, 29 ft. high ; two porcelains : lied Room, where Gustavus III. slept (many marble statues here) : great gallery, 162 ft. long; wonderful collection of sculp- tures ; mythological frescos : two smaller rooms, de- voted to pictures of battles : a second gallery and two rooms devoted to allegories of Peace : Festival Hall , — sometimes called the White Sea , — with richly painted ceilings : Victoria Hall , the Hall of the Columns , and the present king’s and queen’s apartments : Library very rich, with many statuettes of great men, Tlior- waldsen and others. On the great square, S. of the palace, is an obelisk, erected in 1799, in memory of the fidelity of the citizens of Stockholm during the war of 1788-1790 against the Russians. Near the port, statue of Gustavus III. Behind the obelisk is the Church of St. Nicholas, founded in 1260 or 1264, and reconstructed 1726-48, with a spire 808 ft. high; interior divided into 5 naves by rows of columns; altar-piece in ivory, silver, and ebony, representing the birth of the Saviour ; organ one of the largest in Swe- den ; immense stores of beautiful silver vessels and candelabra ; remarkable funereal monuments. Oppo- site the palace, beyond the Slottsbacken, is the House of the Governor of Stockholm , built by Tessin, the most celebrated architect of Sweden, who formerly owned it. In the Stortorget, or great square, the famous Bath of Blood , as it is called in Swedish history, — the execu- tion of 96 distinguished citizens, opponents of Christian II., King of Denmark, who was seeking to extend his rule over Sweden, — took place. Here is the Bourse, built in 1766; fine halls in the first story. Near by, the German ch. (1642), with tower 222 ft. high, and the only chime of bells in Sweden; authentic 452 STOCKHOLM. portraits of Luther and Melanchthon. Here also is the Knights' House (1648), one of the finest palaces in Stockholm ; noble staircase ; walls decorated with the arms of all the nobility of Sweden. Stetue of Gustavus Yasa before this house, erected on the 250t,h anniver- sary of the entry of that king into Stockholm. The courts of justice and other nublic buildings are not far away. At Skeppsbron , the port, is the telegraph office and the Custom House. The Scandinavian Credit Bank is the finest modern building in the city. The Gothic Ch. of the Knights' Island ( Riddarholms-Kyrkan ) is on the Riddarholmen Island, to the W. of the Eques- trian Palace. It belonged to a famous Franciscan convent founded by King Magnus Ladulas, and was reconstructed in 1847. It is 192 ft. long, 60 ft. wide, and the tower is 290 ft. high. It is noticeable as a mausoleum of celebrated men (local guides give de- scription). The chief tomb is that- of the Gustavus dynasty. N. of the choir is the Charles Chapel (built 1686-1743), with marble sarcophagus of Charles XII. Here also repose Charles X., Charles XV., Frederick, and many others. Ch. open from May 1 to October 1, Tues. and Thurs., 12-2 p.m. ; fee, 25 6. On the Riddarholmen are also the Royal Courts of Justice, the Chamber of Deputies, the Royal Archives, and the Statue of Birger- Jarl. Go by the great northern bridge — 380 ft. long, in granite, built in 1797 — to Helgeands - holmen , with its pretty gardens, huge bazaar, and royal stables. In the N. section ( Noerwaln ) is the Gustavus Adol- phus Place and statue, pedestal ornamented with re- liefs of celebrated Swedish generals. On the W., Palace of the Crown Prince. Opposite is the Royal* Theatre, inaugurated in 1782. Here Gustavus III. was killed by Ankarstrom. E., near this square, is the STOCKHOLM. 453 Jacob's Ch. (1590). The S. portal is very rich with sculptures dating from 1644. The poet Kellgren is. buried here. To the E. is the Charles XII 's Place, also called the Royal Garden, with statue of Charles XII. To the S., statue of Charles XIII. Pretty theatre and fountain near by. In the Berzelius Park, statue of Berzelius, the father of chemical science. W. of the Charles XIII. Place is the Museum of the Society of Arts (open daily, except Mon., 11-3, 25 6. ; Sun., 1-3, free ; Mon., Wed., and Fri., 11-3, 50 6.), with collec- tions of pictures, weapons, engravings, and Egyptian and Swedish antiquities. Fafade ornamented with statues of noted Swedes. The Historical Museum , founded in the 17th century, is one of the largest of its kind. The Hall of the Middle Ages (1050-1527) is especially interesting. The sculpture-gallery deserves numerous visits. The Italian, German, Flemish, Span- ish, French, Swedish, Norwegian, and Danish schools of painting are well represented. From the National- Museum, an iron bridge leads to the Skepps holme n, am island on which is a ch. of the same name. Here also are the arsenals of the Swedish fleet. The Academy of Fine Arts (1671) is in the Bed Shop Square. The Clara-Kyrka (1285 ; burned 1751; rebuilt 1753) is very interesting. You cross the Malar Lake on a rly. which cost 5,000,000 crowns. At Kungsholmen are many hospitals and some of the chief manufactories. Also the Mint, and a ch. with a fine altar-piece. Not far away is the principal military school. There are many other interesting things in the city quarter (see local guides). The Ch. of the Baptists and the Ch. of St. John should be seen. In the ceme- tery of the latter. Yon Dobeln, one of the heroes of the last war against the Russians, is buried. The two principal streets of Stockholm are the Regents’ and 454 UPSALA. Queen Street, — in Swedish, Regeringsgatan and Drott- mnggatan. The Academy of Science , the Natural History Museum , the Technological Institute , the Min- ing School , and the Observatory are all in this quarter. In the Ladugardslandet quarter are the Artillery « Square and a ch. founded in 1658, remarkable for its acoustics. Here also is the Royal Library of 200,000 vols., founded under Charles IX. (open daily, except Sat., 11-2). In the Sodermalm , or S. faubourg, is the Karl Johans Place , with equestrian statue to memory of that king. Here also, in the Hormgatan , 43, is the house which Swedenborg inhabited for a long time. Near the Mosebacke is the KatharinaKyrka , on the •spot where the decapitated bodies of the victims of the Hattie of Blood were buried. The environs of Stock- holm are noted for their beauty, especially during the wonderfully clear nights of June and July. The little steamers running in all directions afford opportunities for many delightful excursions. The Carlberg and Drottningholm should be visited. The hotel porters will give you lists of excursions and the best manner of making them. From Stockholm it is 1^ hr. by express <5 k. 60 6, 4 k. 5 6.) to Upsala (Stads-Hotellet ; Jernvdgs ; Svea; good res- taurants), the most famous university town in Sweden (20,000 inhab.), and the residence of the archbishop =and other dignitaries. It lies on both banks of the Fyrisa, which is crossed by 5 bridges. It was formerly called Ostra-Aros , and when the Swedish kings resided at Gamla Upsala, it was their port. It is the historical and intellectual centre of Sweden, and its mythical associations are of the greatest interest. Visit the Gothic Cathedral (founded 1260), situated on a pictu- Tesque height. The chief curiosities are the Burial ' Chapel of Gustavus Vasa (af the back of the choir), and the tomb of Linn^s, the great botanist. ABO. — HELSINGFORS. 455 N. of this cathedral is St. Eric’s Spring , said to have burst forth on the spot where the saint was martyred. The Ch. of the Trinity has many handsome monuments.. The University was founded in 1477. Many of its edifices are very striking in architecture. The library building is especially fine. The Library contains 200,000 vols., and 7,000 MSS. Here is the famous transla- tion of the four Gospels by Bishop Ulphilas, datings from the second half of the 4th century. The House of Linnreus is still shown in Upsala. In the cemetery see monument to Geijer, the poet. There are 1,500 stu- dents at the University. Numerous charming excur- sions in the neighborhood. A pretty excursion is from Upsala to Gefle by rail in 4J hrs. (8 k. 50 6., 5 k. 30 6.). On the way you may see the Castle,, which was fortified by Gustavus Yasa, and where Eric XIY. was imprisoned during his insanity. We will not attempt to give other excursions in Sweden, but will recommend the tourist next to pro- ceed from Stockholm to St. Petersburg. RUSSIA. Steamers sail daily in summer from the port of Stock- holm to St. Petersburg in 3-4 days, stopping at Abo,, the old capital of Finland, taken from the Swedes in 1809 by the Russians ; Helsingfors , one of the strong- est of naturally fortified harbors ; and Wyborg , taken from the Swedes by Peter the Great in 1710. The beauty of the hundreds of islands through which the steamer threads its way renders the journey a constant pleasure. The Ahland Islands are about 300 in number. Shortly after the steamer enters the Gulf of Finland,, the dome of St. Isaac’s Ch. in St. Petersburg is dis- tinctly visible. On the way up, the steamer passes 456 ST. PETERSBURG. Cronstadt, the Russian Empire’s chief naval station. It is defended by great batteries hewn out of the solid rock, and has extensive docks. The fortifications were begun in 1703 by Peter the Great, and have been greatly strengthened since. The approaching seaward is secured by the erection of batteries and by the sink- ing of ships. An excursion can be made in one day from St. Petersburg to Cronstadt , Oranienbaum, Peter - hof Strelna , and the Monastery of St. Sergius. Oranien- baum is a palace, built in 1724, confiscated to the crown from Mentchikoff’s estate. It commands a magnificent view. The Peterhof Palace , begun in 1720 by Leblond, under the direction of Peter the Great, contains innumer- able articles of vertu , tapestries, marbles, porcelains, malachites, portraits, especially a collection of pictures of feminine beauties, 368 in number, collected from 50 Russian provinces. In front of the palace is a fountain called the Samson. There are two small palaces near here, of which Peter the Great was very fond, and in that of Mont Plaisir he died. The Hermitage, Alex- andra, where the Emperor lives while at Peterhof, and Strelna, the palace of the Grand Duke Constantine, are in this neighborhood. St. Petersburg ( Hotel d' Angleterre ; Be Pussie ; Demouth's ; Be France ; Bellevue') is the capital of the Russian Empire, and as the headquarters of the official world and the centre of Russian society must always possess a certain interest for the traveller (667,000 inhab.). The common supposition that it is not wise to visit Russia in midsummer is founded upon a mistake. The Russian summer climate is extremely soft and beau- tiful, and the heat is never so intense as in some parts of North America. Of course, the social world is not so gay as in winter, but the tourist who expects to spend but j 2 or 3 days in St. Petersburg will hardly care about this. ST. PETERSBURG. 457 The city was founded by Peter the Great, about 1703, and, like Madrid, it might be called a capital with malice aforethought ; for the energetic monarch set it down among the marshes through which the river Neva wan- ders towards the sea. Oil the islands in the channels of the divided Neva the greater part of the city is built. The Admiralty Quarter, so called, containing the public buildings, is on the mainland, on the S. bank of the Neva. St. Petersburg is in many respects a magnificent city, although the contrasts between squalor and great splendor are sometimes too sharp to permit of an agree- able impression. When the town was building, under Peter the Great, 40,000 or 50,000 peasants were em- ployed for years in filling up the marshes. It was the Empress Catherine who built the splendid granite quay along the Neva’s 1. bank. The river has overflowed many times, and the inundations in the 18th century and in the early part of the 19th were very disastrous. The or- dinary tourist will find that the difficulties concerning passports, police supervision, etc., have been greatly exaggerated, and if he is not a Nihilist he will not be much troubled. A passport is, however, exacted on en- tering Russia, and has to be delivered up to the hotel proprietor for registration, and he hands it to you on leaving the hotel. The city is divided into 13 quarters, the Admiralty being the principal one. Erom the Ad- miralty three great streets branch off. They are called the Vosnessensky ; the Gorokhovaia , ending at the Champs de Mars ; and the famous Nevsky Prospect, where are the most elegant of the shops and many of the chs. and public buildings. The Cathedral of our Lady of Kazan, in the Nevsky Prospect, begun under Alexander I., and consecrated in 1811, is the metropolitan church of St. Petersburg. It is a copy of St. Peter’s at Rome, and takes its name 458 ST. PETERSBURG. from an image of the Virgin brought from Kazail to Mos- cow in 1579. See the beautiful Corinthian colonnade, with columns of Finland granite. Interior superb ; shrine of chased silver, the gift of Cossacks who served in w^ars of 1813-14 ; images before which lamps are al- ways kept burning ; flags, arms, and standards, taken in battle ; bronze statues of Kutusoff and Barclay de Tolly in front of the ch. No organ or instrument is used in the service, but great pains are taken to secure good voices. Remark the deep bass intonation. The For- tress and Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul contains in its vaults the tombs of all the sovereigns of Russia since the foundation of St. Petersburg, except Peter II. (buried at Moscow). The fortress part of this edifice is used as a prison, and also contains the imperial Mint . The gilded spire is visible from a great distance. Hun- dreds of flags are suspended along the w^alls. The Cathedral of St. Isaac , the largest in St. Peters- burg, is on the site of a ch. built in 1710 by Peter the Great. Its foundations rest upon thousands of piles. The interior is chiefly striking from its splendid propor- tions. Notice the lavish use of polished granite, white marble, malachite, porphyry, and lapis lazuli. Fine view of city from dome. The Winter Palace (admis- sion by tickets procured at entrance of Council of State), built in 1754, in Catherine’s reign, stands on the r. bank of the Neva. This is the imperial city residence, and this building was the scene of the Nihilist conspiracies, which finally resulted in the death of Alexander II. in 1881. The exterior is not impressive, but the interior is richly ornamented with paintings, bronzes, marbles, and pre- cious stones. Grand festival here on New Year’s Day by the Emperor to all his subjects. See the Ambassa- dor s Staircase on the Neva ; also the magnificent flight of white marble steps, leading to the state apartments. ST. PETERSBURG. 459 * The Throne Room is the finest in Europe. The White Room , St. George's Hall , the Field Marshal's Gallery , the Alexander Hall , the of Battles (in which are paintings by Horace Vernet), the Golden Chamber , the Empress's Winter Garden , and the Romanoff Gallery are the principal apartments. Near the entrance of the latter gallery is the green curtain, behind which is a tablet on which are the rules drawn up by the Empress Catherine, to be enforced at her receptions at Hie Her- mitage. In the jewel room, see the Imperial crown and sceptre (containing a diamond weighing 194 carats) . See also room in which Emperor Nicholas died. The Her - mitage (open daily except Eri. ; closed in Aug.), close to the Winter Palace, was founded by Catherine in 1765, and rebuilt in 1840-50. The famous museum contains 1,700 paintings of all schools, among them being some by Murillo, Velasquez, Rubens, Van Dyke, Rembrandt, and Ruysdael. There are also vast collections of en- graved stones, and designs by masters. The Taurida Palace , the Anitchkoff Palace , the Michael and the Marble Palaces are not impressive buildings. One or two of them are occasionally open to visitors. The Admiralty is a vast edifice with a facade half a mile long. Near it are the great dockyards, the headquarters of the army, and the War Office. The Wooden Cottage of Peter the Great, containing many relics of the famous monarch, is near the citadel. The Imperial Library , containing 400,000 vols., is near the Kazan Ch. Other noteworthy libraries are those of the Academy of Science, the Hermitage, and the Alexander Nevsky Monastery . This monastery is one of the most celebrated in Russia. It was founded by the great Peter in honor of Alexander the Great, ^ho conquered the Swedes and the Livonians. The museum of the Academy of Science occupies a portion 460 MOSCOW. of the superb building near the Admiralty. The Asiatic Museum is rich in Eastern antiquities. The Romanoff Museum , that attached to the Mining School, that of Natural History, and the Egyptian Museum should be seen. The theatres, kept up at the government expense, are all of large size. The Bolskoy , the Alexandra, and Hie French are the principal ones. The opera in St. Petersburg is noted. The monuments are nearly all -good. Those most worthy of attention are the Eques- trian Statue of Feter the Great, with a prancing horse balanced on its hind legs, by Falconet ; and the column of Alexander, a single shaft of red granite 80 ft. high, ’weighing 400 tons, stands near the Winter Palace. The Summer Gardens , 1 M. long, and M. wide, beautifully ornamented, contain the palace in which Peter the Great occasionally lived. The country around St. Peters- burg is very uninteresting. It is 401J M. from St. Petersburg to Moscow. The rly. carriages are much like those of America in model. The stations are all comfortable, refreshment saloons excellent, and fares reasonable. Eirst-class express to Moscow, 19 roubles ; second, 13 roubles. The princi- pal town on the way is Tver , at the confluence of the Yvertsa and the Volga. Cathedral , Trinity Ch. Here steamer can be taken to Nijni-Novgorod, and thence to Astrakan. Moscow ( Slavianski Bazaar ; Dussaux ; Cheerier ; DAngleterre), or Holy Moscow, as the Russians call it, the ancient capital of Russia, formerly the residence of the Emperors, is situated on the Moskowa, in a pleasant country. Up to the great fire in 1812, it was the most irregularly built town in Europe, and to-day it remains original and picturesque in a striking degree. A good Hew may be had from the Sparrow Hills , on the S. side. In the centre of the city is the Kremlin , a triangle 2 M. MOSCOW. 461 m circuit, filled with palaces, churches, arsenals, and museums. Here the Tartar architecture predominates. An excellent preparation for visiting the Kremlin is the perusal of Theophile Gautier’s lively and sparkling book on a “ Winter in Russia.” The Redeemer's Gate and the Gate of St. Nicholas are objects of great veneration among Russians. Visitors must uncover their heads on pass- ing through the Redeemer’s Gate. The present Krem- lin Palace is modern, the old Kremlin having been de- stroyed in 1812. Most of the ancient palaces were of wood. To Nicholas I. the erection of the present one is due. The Hall of St. George , the Hall of St. Alex- ander Nevsky , and Sts. Andrew and Catherine , and the Banqueting Hall , as well as the Terem , which contains a collection of the portraits of the czars, and from the terrace of which Napoleon I. looked down upon Mos. cow when he came there as conqueror, are among the Kremlin’s chief marvels. In the little Ch. of the Re- deemer are some beautiful decorations. On the Cathedral Place is the Cathedral of the Assumption , founded in 1325, and rebuilt in 1472. Many sacred treasures here. In this ch. the Emperors of Russia are crowned. The Cathedral of the Archangel Michael contains many tombs of sovereigns. The Ch. of the Annunciation is where the czars are baptized. It is rich with relics. The jewels in all Russian chs. are worth studying. The House of the Synod , the Treasury (open Mon. and Thur., permit at the chamberlain’s office), and the Arsenal will furnish plenty of amusement for a day. The Tower of Ivan Veliki , or John the Great, built in 1600, and 320 ft. high, contains 34 bells, the largest of which weighs 64 tons. When all these bells are rung together at Easter the effect is wonderful. At the foot of this tower is the vast Tsar Kolokol , or Mouarch of Bells. It once hung in a tower (burned in 1737) ; weighs 444,000 lbs. ; and is 20 ft. high and 60 ft. round. The value of 462 NIJNI-NOVGOROD. — ODESSA. the metal in the bell is nearly $2,000,000. Outside the Kremlin is the Chinese town, so called, founded by Helena. Here are the Cathedral of St. Basil , built in 1554 by Ivan IV., the Romanoff Palace , the Iberian Gate and Chapel, the University (900 students), the great Riding School, the Theatres, and the largest Bazaar in Russia, except that of Nijni-Novgorod. The pigeon being looked upon as sacred by the Russians, thousands of these birds are to be seen in the streets of Moscow. S. of Moscow is a beautiful villa owned by the Imperial family. It is 271f M. from Moscow to Nijni-Novgorod. Tourists pressed for time . can take -night train there ; spend the day at Nijni ; and return the next night (fares, 12 roubles, 3 c. ; 9 roubles, 22 c ). Nijni-Novgorod {Be Russie, Kgoroff's'), a city of 50,000 inhab., is celebrated for its great fair, held an- nually in July and Aug., and attended by 200,000 peo- ple. Here the inhabitants of the barbaric East come into close contact with the Western merchants and vis- itors. The town is at the confluence of the Oka and the Volga. The Kremlin is on a bank overhanging the Volga. The transactions at the fair amount annuallv to $80,000,000. From Moscow to Odessa (time, 33J hrs.; fare, 40 rou- bles, 63 c.) the route passes through Karloff, Poltava, and Balt a. Odessa ( Be Londres ; Be St. Petersbourg) was founded in Catherine II. ’s reign. It is an important commercial port, with 130,000 inhab. ; but there is little of interest to the traveller except the Cathedral, a small museum, a bronze statue of Richelieu, and the University. Steamers leave Odessa twice a week for the Crimea and Sebastopol, and the field of the Cri- mean war may easily be visited. There is also steam communication with Constantinople. TABLE OF CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, MIN. ERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, AND HYDRO- PATHIC ESTABLISHMENTS. Times and railway fares are calculated from Paris. Aix-la-Chapelle (10 hrs. from Paris ; fare, 48 fr.). — Sulphurous alkaline waters, 107° to 120° F. For skin dis- eases, rheumatism, chronic diseases of the nervous centres, neuralgias, paralysis, and syphilitic maladies. Aix-les-Bains (14| hrs.; 71 fr. 60 c.). — Sulphurous hot springs, 112° to 114° F. Have a world-wide reputa- tion in cases of rheumatism and gout; also chronic catarrh of the neck of the womb, amenorrhoea, metritis, syphilis, bronchitis, laryngeal and nasal catarrh, pharyngitis, wounds by fire-arms. April to Nov., and all the year. Amdlie-les-Bains (24^ hrs. ; 120i fr.). — Sulphurous sodaic waters, 71° to 172°' F.; and winter station. Herpetic diathesis, and catarrhal affections. All the year. Arcachon (10 hrs.; 78 fr. 70 c.). — Winter station, and sea baths. For invalids requiring a sedative air; for delicate, lymphatic, and anaemic persons ; nervous complaints ; chest and lung affections ; scrofula ; gout. Winter season, from Nov. till Jane ; summer, from May till Oct. Aulus (24^ hrs. ; 119 fr.). — Alkaline waters, 48° F. Purgative, laxative, and diuretic aetion, according to dose, in diseases of the liver, in arthritic affections, and in syphilis. Baden (27 hrs. ; 152^ fr.). — -Sulphurous waters, 82° to 95° F. For rheumatism, gout, anaemia, and scrofula (espe- cially of a chronic character). May to Oct., and all the year. Baden-Baden (16 hrs. ; 68 fr.). — Alkaline chloride of sodium waters, 110° to 150° F. Uric acid diathesis, gout, and kindred complaints ; ailments dependent on malaria, and certain skin diseases ; chronic rheumatism ; wounds, frac- tures of the bones, scrofula, syphilis, chronic catarrh, certain kidney affections, anaemia. Mav to Oct. and all the year. 463 464 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS. B agnbres-de-Bigorre (22 hrs. ; 105 fr.). — Saline; sulphurous, ferruginous, and arsenical waters, 72° to 120° F. For tuberculosis, affections of the respiratory organs, intes- tines, and urinary system, anaemia, and female disorders. June to Sept., baths; Nov. to May, winter station. Bagnoles (19 hrs. ; 67 fr. 65 c.). — Saline, sulphurous, lithic, silicate, and arsenical waters, 66° F. For diseases of the digestive organs, skin, rheumatism, and scrofula, chlor- osis, congestion of the abdominal viscera, phlebitis, &c. Bar&ges (2H hrs. ; 113 fr.). — Alkali-saline-sulphurous waters, 45° to 105° F. For scrofula, diseases of the bones, herpes and syphilis. June 15 to Sept. 15. Biarritz (19£ hrs. ; 96 fr. 80 c.). — Sea-bathing and winter station. For chlorosis, anaemia, chest and lung com- plaints, laryngitis, pharyngitis. Aug. to May. Bourbon-1’ Archambault (6£ hrs. ; 40 fr. 75 c.). — Bromo-iodurated saline waters, 125° F. ; and bicarbonate ferruginous magnesian waters, 120° to 160° F., highly gase- ous. For scrofula, rheumatism, paralysis, nervous affections. Bourboule (La) (13| hrs. ; 60 fr.). — Effervescent saline arsenical waters (28 milligr. arseniate of soda per litre), 140° F. For anaemia, lymphatism, general debility, affections of the skin and respiratory organs, rheumatism, and intermittent fevers. May 25 to Sept. 30. Cannes (20* hrs.; 130 fr.). — Winter station of first importance ; climate tonic and stimulating near the sea ; sedative towards Le Cannet. Sea baths in spring ; season, Oct. to May. For nervous debility, ansemia, phthisis, laryn- gitis, pharyngitis, rheumatism, paralysis, gout, and diabetes. Carlsbrunn. — Highly effervescing, ferruginous manga- nese waters, 45° F. ; climatic station. For debility of the male and female sexual organs, sterility, impotence, affections of the brain due to overwork. June to Sept. Castellamare di Stabia (50£ hrs. ; 248 fr.). — Sea baths ; cold chloride of sodium, bitter and sulphurous chaly- beate waters. For obstructions of the liver and spleen, affections of the mesenteric glands, biliary and vesical calculi. MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 465- jaundice, dropsy, hemorrhoids, chronic ophthalmia, herpes, catarrh of the digestive organs, hypochondriasis, urinary cal- culi, vesical catarrh, scrofula, lymphatism, congestion of the uterus, leucorrhcea, &c. Sea and mineral bathing, May to Oct. ; winter season, Oct. to April. Cauterets (21£ hrs. ; 111 fr. 90 c.). — Sulphate of soda springs, 55° to 145° F. For catarrh of the respiratory organs, skin diseases, uterine affections, scrofula. Contrex^ville (10 hrs. ; 51i fr.). — Effervescent alka- line, slightly ferruginous waters, 55° F. Especially for gravel, biliary and vesical calculi, and catarrh, diabetes, gout, and gouty rheumatism, disorders of the urinary system, affec- tions of the uterus, hepatic complaints. May 20 to Sept. Dax (15 hrs. ; 90 fr. 80 c.). — Hyperthermal mixed sul- phurous waters, 120 a to 145° F. For articular, muscular, or rheumatic affections, gout, neuralgia, and neuroses. Dieppe (4 hrs. ; 20 fr. 65 c.). — Much -frequented sea- bathing and summer resort. Divonne-les-Bains (15£ hrs. ; 81 fr.). — Cold water springs; water exceptionally pure, 44° F. For chronic rheu- matic arthritis, lumbago, pleuro-dynia, gout, sciatica, neu- ralgia, hypochondria, neuroses, gastralgia, bronchial catarrh, dyspepsia, liver and bladder complaints, hemorrhoids, paraly- sis, chronic affections of the spinal cord, scrofula, and female . disorders. Eaux-Bonnes (18 hrs. ; 105 fr.). — Sulphurous saline and alkaline waters, 90° F. For angina pectoris, and laryn- gitis, bronchitis, and chronic catarrh, asthma, chronic pleu- ritis, anaemia, lymphatism, and scrofula. June to Sept. Ems (16i hrs. ; 71 fr. 15 c.). — Saline alkaline and sa. line earthy, 65° to 110° F. These waters act on the lungs and chest, and on nervous diseases. May to Oct. Enghien (20 min. ; 1 fr. 35 c.). — Cold sulphurous and lime waters. For scrofula, affections of respiratory organs,, herpes, and rheumatism. Etretat (5 hrs. 50 min. ; 28 fr.). — A now much-fre- quented resort for sea-bathing in summer. 466 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, Evian-les-Bains (13 hrs. ; 82 fr. 80 c.). — Alkaline waters, and climatic air station. For affections of the uri- nary and digestive organs, the liver and biliary apparatus. Geneva (14 hrs.; 77 fr.). — Milk cure. Bathers from Aix-les-Bains come here to rest after their cure. Gorbersdorf (39 hrs. ; 1671: fr-) - — Noted for its moun- tain-air cure, in affections of the respiratory organs. Anae- mia and chlorosis are also treated. Grasse. — Dry and sedative climate ; winter station ; Oct. to June. Chest and lung complaints, pharyngitis, nervous affections, anaemia, chlorosis. Homburg-les-Bains (18 hrs. 40 min.; 86 fr. 69 c.). — Saline, ferruginous, and acidulous waters. For dyspepsia, scrofula, and anaemia. Hy&res (20 hrs.; 117 fr.).; — Winter season, Nov. to June ; sea-bathing, May to Oct. For diseases of the larynx, ^ehest, and lungs, scrofula, diabetes, gout, and rheumatism. Interlaken (18 hrs. ; 78 fr. 65 c.). — Climatic station in summer, visited for its beautiful environs. Whey cure. Ischia (50^ hrs. ; 288i fr.). — Alkali-saline waters, 145° F. For uterine affections, rheumatism, diseases of the bones, sores, gout, and paralysis. Spring and autumn. Ischl (23f hrs.; 168 fr. 90 c.). — A climatic summer station ; May to Oct. Saline and cold sulphurous waters ; whey cure ; saline, steam, hot and cold brine, and sulphurous baths ; mud, malt, pine-cone, sap, and wave baths ; inhala- tion. Recommended for nervous affections. Karlsbad (32 hrs. ; 137 fr.). — Polymetallic waters, 125° to 170° F. For constipation, liver and bilious com- plaints, plethora, obesity, gout, gravel, &c. Kissingen (21 hrs. 40 inin.; 106 fr.). — Cold saline waters, strongly mineralized ; tonic and excitant. Especially suited to abdominal and hemorrhoidal congestions. Kreuznach (13£ hrs. ; 72 fr.). — Bromo-iodurated sa- line waters. F orscrofulous affections, diseases of the ears, respiratory organs, bones, and joints, all female and skin diseases, and in chronic affections generally. May to Oct. MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 467 Lausanne (15| hrs. ; 64 fr. 20 c.). — Climatic station in summer and autumn ; bracing air and grape cure. Loeche-les-Bains (30 hrs.; ]00 fr.). — Various springs j hot saline earthy waters, 70° to 120° F. For struma, herpes, and skin diseases, scrofula, rheumatism, chronfc bronchitis, inveterate syphilis, &c. May 15 to Sept. 30. Luchon (19| hrs. ; 103 ^ fr.). — Upwards of fifty differ- ent springs, mineralized by hydro-sulphuric acid ; also ferru- ginousaud alkaline. For rheumatism, scrofula, bronchial and skin diseases, and chronic sores. June to Sept. Luxeuil (11| hrs. ; 60 fr.). t — S aline, ferruginous, and magnesian waters; eleven springs, 70° to 125° F. They are first excitant, then sedative ; and good in cases of neural- gia, rheumatism, paralysis, gastralgia, &c. Madeira (steamers from Southampton, Bordeaux, or Lis- bon ; journey 5 to 6 days ; 500 fr.). — Highly recommended for pulmonary complaints ; climate delightful ; no winter. Mentone (24| hrs.; 139 fr.). — Winter station of first importance, and sea baths. For all forms of chest diseases and rheumatism, cachetic complaints, and debility. Winter season, November to June ; sea-bathing, May to Oct. Monaco (24| hrs.; 138 fr.). — Monte Carlo is the favorite wfinter resort of pleasure-seekers . One of the most sheltered stations on the Riviera. Sea baths ; May to Oct. Mont-Dore(ll hrs.; 64| fr.). — Bicarbonate, arsen- ical, and effervescent ferruginous waters, 107° to 115° F. For all forms of chest diseases and of the respiratory tract ; ophthalmia, rheumatic and nervous affections, disorders of the uterus and skin. June 1 to Oct. 1. Naples (48 hrs. ; 223 fr. 85 c.). — The great variety of mineral waters and their therapeutic properties have rendered this delightful city and its environs the most frequented bath- ing station in Italy. Sea baths. Nice (22 hrs.; 134 fr. 20 c.). — Winter statioii of first importance. For chronic diseases of the chest, lungs, and respiratory organs ; affections of the larynx, liver complaints, disorders of the spinal cord, diabetes, gout, rheumatism. 468 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS. paralysis, debility. Winter season, Nov. to June ; 9ea-bathing: season, May to Oct. ; principal season, Jan. to March. Ostend (14 lirs. ; 38 fr. 40 c.). — Sea baths. -Sandy beach and bracing climate. Season, June 1 to Oct. I. Palermo (66? hrs. ; 289? fr.). — Winter station ; sea baths. Season, Nov. to April ; bathing season, May to Oct. Pau (172 hrs.; 101 fr.). — Winter resort of first im- portance. For chest complaints, consumption (inflammatory action and blood-spitting), asthma, bronchitis, rheumatism, neuralgia, and nervous disorders. Nov. 15 to May 31. Pierrefonds (2! hrs. ; 12 fr.). — One cold sulphate of lime spring ; one ferruginous and arsenical. Pulmonary catarrh. Plombibres (11 hrs.; 45 fr.). — The springs range* from 30° to 175° E. For rheumatism, paralysis, herpes, nervous debility, hysteria. Pougues (5 hrs.; 29 fr. 70 c.). — Mixed bicarbonate ferruginous gaseous waters. Affections of the digestive organs; Preste (La) (23? hrs.; 145 f.). — Very efficacious wa- ters in diseases of the urinary organs, gravel. 90° to 105° F. Pullna. — No treatment at Piillna itself; the waters are exported, and considered excellent as preservatives and reme- dies against diseases of the digestive organs, constipation, congestions, liver and bladder complaints, nervous disorder*, obesity, diseases of the eye, headache, and gastritis. Pyrmont (18 hrs. ; 84 ft'. 30 c.). — Chalybeate springs; of importance and much renown ; effervescent saline waters,, brine baths, inhalations. For female complaints, especially anaemia, chlorosis, scrofula, stomachic and intestinal catarrhs,, obesity, affections of spleen and liver. Season, May 15 to Oct. 1 .. Recoaro (34} hrs.; 139? fr.). ■ — Alkaline, acidulated ferruginous waters, 45° F. For chronic and nervous debil- ity, female diseases, obesity, anaemia, chlorosis, gravel and vesical calculus, congestion of the liver, biliary calculi, hem- orrhoidal complaints, intestinal catarrhs. May to Sept. Rome (49| hrs.; 201 fr. 90 e.). — Winter station of first importance. Foi debility and scrofula in children, ehronic catarrh of the bronchi, emphysema. The climate is- MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 469 sedative to the nerves and respiratory organs ; but patients should first consult their doctor. Oct. to May. Rorschach. — Climatic station in summer; baths in the lake ; Turkish baths ; very pure and equable atmosphere. Roy at (9£ hrs. ; 51J fr.). — Four springs : mixed alka- line, gaseous, ferruginous, and slightly arsenical and Iithic waters, 45° to 95° F. For lymphatic affections, anaemia, chlorosis, catarrhal affections, arthritic gout, and skin dis- eases dependent on a gouty diathesis. St. Galmier. — Alkaline table waters, used in France. St. Moritz (34 hrs. ; 130 fr. 60 c.). — Climatic moun- tain-air station. Two ferruginous springs, very cold and very effervescing. For phthisis. St. Raphael (19| hrs.; 130 fr. 20 c.). — Winter sta- tion and sea baths ; summer. May 1 to Nov. 1 ; winter, Nov. 1 to June 1. For atonic debility, rachitis, scrofula, lymphatic affections, chest and lung complaints, diabetes, rheumatism, gout, emphysema, ansema, and chlorosis. San Remo. — Winter station of first importance ; la- tent scrofula, chronic bronchial, stomachic, and intestinal catarrh, emphysema, pharyngitis, laryngitis, pleuritic exu- dations, incipient phthisis, rheumatism, Bright's disease, diabetes, and general debility. Nov. to May. Saxon (18 hrs.; 73 fr. 55 c.). — Bromo-iodurated sa- line waters, 60° F. For syphilis, scrofula, and gout. Scheveningen (15^ hrs. ; 67 fr. 70 c.). — Very well frequented summer resort; sea-bathing; beach of fine sands. Schinznach (17 hrs.; 72 fr.). — Sulphurous waters, rich in sulphuretted hydrogen and carbonic acid, also in chloride of sodium and salts of lime, 95° F. For chronic skin diseases, eczema, acne, psoriasis, &c., scrofula, chronic catarrh, bronchitis, emphysema, asthma, rheumatism, gout, syphilis, mercurialism ; May to Oct. Schlangenbad (19 hrs. 10 min.; 81f fr.). — Nine springs, 75° to 90° F. For menstrual difficulties in delicate women ; general debility in children, women, and aged per- sons; gout, partial paralysis. May 1 to Oct. 1. Bchwalbach (20 hrs. ; 83 fr. 5 c.). — Chalybeate wa- 470 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, ters. For all female complaints; anaemia, chlorosis, nervous affections, debility of muscles and mucous membranes, espe- cially catarrhal affections of the genital organs. May to Oct. Spa (8^ hrs. ; 44f fr.). — Highly effervescent ferrugi- nous and acidulous waters. For anaemia, chlorosis, female complaints, hysteria, gastralgia, sterility, difficult menstrua- tion, liver complaints, urinary disorders, cachexki, mucous catarrh of the uterus, &c. May to Oct. Spezzia (28 hrs.; 130 fr. 40 c.). — Winter air-cure and summer sea-bathing resort. Teplitz-Schonau (32 hrs. ; 145^ fr.). — Alkali-saline waters, 95° to 125° F. For rheumatism, gout, neuralgia, paralysis, incipient spinal complaints, scrofulous tumors and sores, fractures, anchylosis, &c. May to Nov. Trouville (6 hrs.; 28 fr. 65 c.). — Fashionable and much- frequented summer station ; sea baths, sandy beach. Uriage (14f hrs. ; 79 fr.). — Saline sulphurous waters, .81° F. For scrofula, chronic affections of the skin, rheuma- tism, nervous affections, diseases of the eyelids, granular pharyngitis, &c. Milk and whey cure. May 15 to Oct. 15. Valencia. — Spanish winter resort ; sea baths, sandy beach. Vais (171 hrs. ; 87 fr.). — Cold alkaline springs, light, medium, and strong ; principally used as table waters. For gravel, liver complaints, and disorders of the spleen. Venice (36 hrs. ; 154 fr.). — Sea baths and winter sta- tion ; sedative climate, somewhat like that of Pau. Vevey (16J hrs.; 86£ fr.). — Air-cure station, much frequented on account of the mildness of its temperature. Vichy (8i hrs. ; 45 fr.). — Bicarbonate of soda alkaline springs, 35° to 105° F. For dyspepsia, hepatic disorders, uric acid diathesis, catarrh of the urinary organs, diabetes. Voslau (27i hrs. ; 156 fr. 95 c.). — A favorite climatic resort of the Viennese. May 15 to Sept. 30 ; grape cure, Sept, to Oct. Wiesbaden (15 hrs. ; 86 fr. 45 c.J. — The waters are ^excitant, resolvent, reconstituent, and laxative, 30° to 165° F, For scrofula, rheumatism, paralysis, and impaired digestion. Zurich (18 hrs. ; 85 fr. 10 c.). — Earthy alkaline waters. DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS OF THE UNITED STATES IN THE PRINCIPAL EUROPEAN COUNTRIES. Vienna . Austria-Hungary. . Minister , Frederick D. Grant. u Con. -Gen. , Julius Goldschmidt. Pesth Consul , Edw. P.T. Hammond. Prague “ William A. Rublee. Trieste “ J. F. Hartigan. Fiume . G. Gelletich. Brussels . Belgium. . Minister, Edwin H. Terrell, << . Consul, G. W. Roosevelt. Antwerp . “ John H. Steuart. Charleroi “ Chas. Vander-Elst. Ghent “ John B. Osborne. Liege . u James R. Danforth. Verviers . “ Henry Dodt. Copenhagen Denmark. . Minister, Clark E. Carr. u . Consul, Henry B. Ryder. Elsinore . “ Regner L. Ulstrop. 472 DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS France. Paris . . Minister , Whitelaw Reid. 44 . Sec. of Legation, Henry Vignaud. 44 . . Consul-General, Adam E. King. Algiers . . Consul, Charles T. Grellet. Calais . . 44 J. P. Vendroux. Oran . . 44 Benj. A. Courcelle. Bordeaux . . 44 Horace G. Knowles. Pau 4 4 J. Morris Post. Havre . . 44 Oscar F. Williams. Brest . A. Pitel. Cherbourg . . 44 Emile Postel. Cognac 44 William S. Preston. Limoges . . 44 Walter T. Griffin. Lyons . 44 Edmund B. Fairfield. Marseilles . . 44 Charles B. Trail. Toulon . 44 Louis J. B. V. Jouve. Nantes . . . . 44 H. de S. Dupin. Nice . 44 William H. Bradley. Cannes . . . 44 Theo. D. Yalcourt. Mentone . 44 Auge Clericy. Monaco . , . 44 Emile de Loth. Rheims 44 Alton Angier. Rouen . 44 Charles P. Williams. Dieppe . . 44 Raoulle Bourgeois. Germany. Berlin Minister , William W. Phelps. 44 . Sec. of Legation, Chapman Coleman. u Consul-General , William H. Edwards. Aix-La-Chapelle . Consul, Charles Weare. Bremen . . 44 Hugo M. Starklofr. Brunswick 44 L. Austin Spalding. Cologne . . 44 William D. Warner. Crefeld 44 Evans Blake. OF THE UNITED STATES. 47a Dresden . Consul , Aulick Palmer. Dlisseldorf . u D. J. Partello. Frankfort u Frank H. Mason. Hamburg u Charles F. Johnson. Leipsic u Henry W. Diederich. Mannheim . u John F. Winter. Mayenee . u James H. Smith. Munich u Fred. W. Catlin. Nuremberg u William J. Black. Stuttgart u Louis Gottschalk. Great Britain. London , Minister , Robert T. Lincoln. “ , Sec. of Legation, Henry White. u . Consul-General , John C. New. Liverpool . Consul, Thomas H. Sherman, Belfast . u Samuel G. Ruby. Birmingham u John Jarrett. Kidderminster u James Morton. Wolverhampton . “ John Neve. Bradford . u John A. Tibbits. Bristol . u Lorin A. Lathrop. Cardiff . u Walter E. Howard. Cork . u John J. Piatt. Dublin . u Alexander J. Reid. Dundee <( Arthur B. Wood. Falmouth u Howard Fox. Gibraltar u Horatio J. Sprague. Glasgow . u Levi W. Brown. Hull . u Byron G. Daniels. Leeds u Francis H. Wigfall. Leith . u Wallace Bruce. Manchester u William F. Grinnell. Newcastle . u Horace W. Metcalf. Nottingham a John L. McKim. 474 DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS Plymouth . . Consul , Thomas W. Fox. Sheffield . . . “ Benjamin Folsom. Southampton . “ Jasper P. Bradley. Greece. Athens . . Minister , A. Louden Snowden. Piraeus . , . Consul , A. C. McDowall. Rome Italy. Minister , Sec. of Legation, Consul-General , Albert G. Porter. H. R. Whitehouse. Augustus O. Bourn. Venice . Consul , Henry A. Johnson. Civita Vecchia . u G. Marsanich. Palermo u Horace C. Pugh. Naples U John S. T wells. Milan . a George W. Pepper. Messina . n William Brush. Leghorn i < Radcliffe H. Ford. Genoa u James Fletcher. Florence u James V. Long. Castellamare . . “ Alfred M. Wood. Holland. The Hague . Minister , Samuel R, Thayer. Amsterdam Consul , Theo. M. Schleier. Rotterdam . < < W. E. Gardner. Flushing . . u Peter Smith. Portugal. Lisbon . Minister , Consul , Geo. S. Batcheller. Oporto William Stuve. Roumania. (Resident, Athens) Minister , A. Louden Snowden. “ V.- Con. -General, W. G. Boxshall. OF THE UNITED STATES. 475 Russia. St. Petersburg . Minister, Ch. Emory Smith. “ See. of Legation, Geo. W. Wurts. u Consul-General , J. M. Crawford. Moscow . Consul, Helsingfors . u Odessa . “ Thos. E. Heenan. Cronstadt u Peter Yigius. Warsaw . . • ‘ Joseph Rawicz. Spain. Madrid Minister , E. Burd Grubb. u Sec. of Legation, Harris R. Newberry. Alicante . Consul , W. L. Giro. Barcelona u Herbert W. Bowen. Cadiz “ R. W. Turner. Malaga “ Thomas M. Newson. Santander . “ Clodomiro Perez. Sweden and Norway. Stockholm . Minister , Wm. W. Thomas, Jr, “ . . Consul, Charles W. Erdman. Christiania . . u Gerhard Gade. Bergen . . . >u F. G. Gade. Gottenberg . . “ Charles H. Shepard. Switzerland. Berne Minister & Con. -Gen., John D. Washburn* Basle . . Consul, George Gifford. Geneva . . R. J. Hemmick. Zurich . . . u George L. Catlin. Turkey. Constantinople Minister, Solomon Hirsch. “ Sec. of Leg., Francis MacNutU “ Consul-Gen., William B. Hess. A SHORT VOCABULARY IN ENGLISH, FRENCH, One. Two. ' Three. Four. Five. -Six. » Seven. Eight. Nine. Ten. Eleven. Twelve. Thirteen. Fourteen. Fifteen. Sixteen. Seventeen. Eighteen. Nineteen. Twenty. Twenty-one. Twenty-two. ' Twenty-three, etc. Thirty. Thirty-one. Thirty-two, etc. Forty. Fifty. •Sixty. ‘Seventy. Un. Deux. Trois. Quatre. Cinq. Six. Sept. Huit. Neuf. Dix. Onze. Douze. Treize. Quatorze. Quinze. Seize. Dix-sept. Dix-huit. Dix-neuf. Yingt. Vingt-et-un. Vingt-deux. Vingt-trois, etc. Trente. Trente-et-un. Trente-deux, etc. Quarante. Cinquante. Soixante. Soixante-dix. OF WORDS AND PHRASES GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. Eins Zwei. Drei. Vier. Fiinf. Sechs. Sieben. Acbt. Neun. Zehn. Elf. Zwolf. Dreizehn. Vierzehn. Eiinfzehn. Sechzebn. Siebzehn. Aclitzehn. Neunzehn. Zwanzig. Ein und zwanzig. Zwei und zwanzig. Drei und zwanzig, etc. Dreissig. Ein und dreissig. Zwei und dreissig, etc. Yierzig. Fiinfzig. Secbzig. vSiebzig. Uno. Due. Tre. Quattro. Cinque. Sei. Sette. Otto. Nove. Dieci. Undici. Dodici. Tredici. Quattordici. Quindici. Sedici. Diecisette ; diciasette. Dieciotto ; diciotto. Diecinove; diciannove. Yenti. Yent’ uno. Yenti due. Yenti tre, etc. Trenta. Trent 5 uno. Trenta due, etc. Quaranta. Cinquanta. Sessanta. Settanta. 478 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH Eighty. 'Ninety A hundred. Two hundred, etc. A thousand. Eleven hundred. Twelve hundred. Two thousand, etc. A million. The first. The second. The third. The fourth. The fifth. The sixth. The seventh. The eighth. The ninth. The tenth. The eleventh. The last. The last but one. Once. Twice. The half.. The third. The fourth. The fifth. The sixth, etc. A river. A fountain. A waterfall. The gate. An hour. Half an hour. Quatre-vingt. Quatre-vingt-dix. Cent. Deux cents, etc. Mille. Onze cents. Douze cents. Deux mille, etc Un million. Le premier. Le second. Le troisieme. Le quatrieme. Le cinquieme, Le sixieme. Le septieme. Le huitieme. Le neuvieme. Le dixieme. Le onzieme. Le dernier. L’avant-dernier. Une fois. Deux fois. La moitie. Demi Le tiers. Le quart. Le cinquieme. Le sixieme, etc. TJne riviere. Une fontaine. Une cascade. La porte. Une heure. , Une demi-beure FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 479 Achtzig. Ottanta. Neunzig. Novanta. Hundert. Cento. Zweihundert, etc. Duecento ; dugento, etc. Tauseud. Mille. Elfbundert. Mille cento. Zwolf hundert. Mille dugento. Zwei Tausend, etc. Due mila, etc. Eine Million. Un milione. Der Erste. 11 primo. Der Zweite. 11 secondo. Der Dritte. 11 terzo. Der Vierte. 11 quarto. Der Eiinfte. 11 quinto. Der Sechste. 11 sesto. Der Siebente. 11 settimo. Der Achte. 1/ ottavo. Der Neunte. 11 nono. Der Zehnte. 11 decimo. Der Elfte. L’undecimo; decimo primo, Der Letzte. L’ ultimo. Der Vorletzte. 11 penultimo. Einmal. Una volt a. Zweimal. Due volte. Die Halfte. Halb. La meta Mezzo, Das Drittel. 11 terzo. Das Viertel. 11 quarto. Das Eiinftel. 11 quinto. Das Sechstel, etc. 11 sesto, etc. Ein Eluss. Un flume. Ein Brunnen. Una fon tana; una fonte. Ein Wasserfall. Una cascata. Das Thor. La porta. Eine Stunde. Ui^ ora. Eiue halbe Stunde. Una mezz’ ora. 480 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, A quarter of an hour. Sunday. Monday. Tuesday. Wednesday. Thursday. Friday. Saturday. A holiday The walls of the town. A monument. The tower. A church. The cathedral, minster. A convent. A chapel. A palace. The town-hall. The castle. The theatre. The custom-house. The post-office. The library. The university. The exchange. The bank. A square. A bridge. A shop. A bookseller’s shop. A coffee-house. An inn ; a hotel. A dining-house. A furnished room. Breakfast. Un quart d’heure. Dimanche. Lundi. Mardi. Mercredi. Jeudi. Vendredi. Samedi. Un jour de fete. Les murs de la ville. Un monument. La tour. Une eglise. La cathedrale. Un couvent. Une chapelle. Un palais. L’hotel de ville. Le chateau. Le theatre. La douane. Le bureau des poster La bibliotheque. L’universite. La bourse. La banque. Une place. Un pont. Une boutique. Une librairie. Un cafe. Une auberge ; un hdtel Un restaurant. Une chambre garnie. Le deieuner. FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 48 L Eine viertel Stunde. Sonntag. Montag. Dienstag. Mittwoch. Donnerstag. Ereitag. Samstag; Sonnabend. Ein Eeiertag; ein Eesttag. Die Stadtmauern. Ein Denkmal. Der Thurm. Eine Kirche. Das Minister; der Dom. Ein Kloster. Eine Kapelle. Ein Palast. Das Batlihaus. Das Schloss. Das Sehauspielhaus. Das Zollhaus, Mauthhaus. Die Post. Die Bibliothek. Die Universitat. Die Borse. Die Bank. Ein Platz. Eine Briicke. Ein Kaufladen. Ein Bucbladen. Ein Kaffehaus. Ein Gasthaus ; ein Gastbof. Ein Speisehaus. Ein moblirtes Zimmer. Das Priilistiick. Un quarto d’ ora. Domenica. Lunedi. Martedi. Mercoledi. Giovedi. Venerdi. Sabbato. Un giorno di festa. Le mura della citta. Un monumento. La torre. Una chiesa. La cattedrale. Un convento. Una cappella. Un palazzo. La casa della citta. 11 castello. 11 teatro. La dogana. L’ uffizio delle poste. La biblioteca ; la libreria^ L’ universita. La borsa. La banca. Una piazza. Un ponte. Una bottega. Una libreria. Un caffe. Un’ albergo ; una locandas, Un trattore. Una stanza mobigliata. La colazione. 482 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, Luncheon. Soup. Hoast-beef. Beef-steak. Yeal. Mutton. Pork. Pish. Eggs. Cake. Butter. Cheese. Beer. Ale. Port. .Sherry. Ices. A railway. An express train. r That is true. I believe so. It is late. I am fatigued. I am thirsty; I am hungry. It is time to set off. That is not true. X did not understand. Who is it ? What are you doing ? What do you want ? Where are you? Where is he ? Wliat is he doing ? Where are you going ? What do you say ? Une collation. La soupe. Du boeuf roti, roast-beef. Beef-steak. Du veau. Du mouton. Du cochon. Le poisson. Des ceufs. Le gateau. Le beurre. Le from age. La biere. L’ale. Le vin d’Oporto. Le vin de Xeres. Les glaces. Un chemin de fe;. Un train de vitesse. C’est vrai. Je le crois. II est tard. Je suis fatigue. J’ai soif ; j’ai faim. II est temps de partir. Cela n’est pas vrai. Je n’avais pas compris. Qui est-ce ? Que faites-vous ? Que voulez-vous ? Oil etes-vous ? Oil est-il ? Que fait-il ? Ou allez-vous ? Que dites-vous ? FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 483 Eine Zwischen-Mahlzeit. Die Suppe. Ochsenbraten. Beef-steak. Kalbfleisch. Hammelfleisch. Schweinefleisch. Der Fisch. Eier. Der Kuchen. Die Butter. Der Kase. Das Bier. Das Ale. Der Portwein. Xereswein. Das Eis. Eine Eisenbahn. Ein Schnellzug. Das ist walir. Ich glaube es. Es ist spat. Ich bin mude. Ich bin durstig; hungrig. Es ist Zeit abzureisen. Das ist niclit wahr. Ich verstand nicht. Wer ist es? W as machen Sie ? Was wellen Sie ? Wo sind Sie? Wo ist er ? Was macht er? Wohin gehen Sie ? Was sagen Sie? Una colazione. La zuppa. Dell’ arrosto di bue. Beef-steak. Del vitello. Del castrato. Del majale. 11 pesce. Delle uova. La focaccia. 11 burro, butiro. 11 formaggio. La birra. La birra fatta con formento. II vino d’ Oporto. 11 vino di Xeres. I sorbetti ; i gelati. Una strada ferrata. Convoglio celere. 6 vero. Lo credo. E tardi. Sono stracco. Ho sete ; ho fame. E ora di part ire. Cio non e vero. Non aveva capito. Chi e ? Che cosa fate ? Che cosa volete ? Dove siete ? Dov’ e ? Che cosa fa ? Dove andate ? Che cosa dite ? 484 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, Did you understand me ? Is dinner ready ? Is it time to go ? Where shall we go ? When shall we set out? Are there any letters for me ? Come here. Make haste. Tell him to come. Take care. Stop. Not so quick. Speak to him. Do what I tell you. Go away. Bring up the carriage. Call (wake) me at five o’clock. Yesterday. To-day. To-morrow. Every day. What name do you give to that dish ? Bring me some bread. Bring me a glass of water. How much for wine ? What is the name of it ? At what hour shall we ar- rive at X ? M’avez-vous compris P Le diner est-il pret ? Est-il temps de partir P Oil irons-nous ? Quand partirons-nous ? Y a-t-il des lettres pour moi ? Venez-ici. Depechez-vous. Dites-lui de venir. Prenez garde. Arretez. Pas si vite. Parlez-lui. Eaites ce que je vous dis. Allez-vous en. Paites avancer la voiture. Beveillez - moi a cinq heures. Hier. Aujourd’hui. Demain. Tous les jours. Quel nom donnez-vous h ce mets ? Apportez-moi du pain. Apportez-moi un verre d’eau. Combien le vin ? Comment l’appelez-vous P A quelle heure arriverons* nous a X ? FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 48 S Haben Sie verstanden ? 1st das Mittagsessen fertig ? 1st es Zeit abzureisen ? Wohin sollen wir gehen? Wann sollen wir abreisen? Sind Briefe fiir micli da ? Kommen Sie bier. Beeilen Sie sicli. Sagen Sie ihm, er moge kommen. Geben Sie Acbt. Halt. Nicht so schnell. Sprechen Sie mit ibm. Thun Sie, was ich Ihnen sage. Geben Sie weg. Lassen Sie den Wagen vor- fahren. Wecken Sie micb um fiinf XJlir. Gestern. Heute. Morgen. Alle Tage. Welcben Namen geben Sie diesem Gericbte p Bringen Sie mir etwas Brod. Bringen Sie mir ein Glas Wasser. Wie viel fiir den Wein ? Wie heisst er ? Um wie viel Uhr werden wir in X ankommen ? Mi avete capito ? E pronto il pranzo ? ’ E egli ora di partire ? Dove andremo ? Quando partiremo? Ci sono lettere per me T Yenite qua. Spicciatevi. Ditegli che venga. Badate. FermatevL Non cosi presto. Parlategli. Fate quel che vi dico. Andate via. Fate venir avanti la car* rozza. Svegliatemi alle cinque.. Ieri. Oggi. . Dimani. Ogni giorno. Come chiamate questa pie- tanza ? Portatemi del pane. Becatemi un biccbier qua. Quanto costa il vino ? Come si chiama ? • A che ora arriveremo n(& aX? 486 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, What railway is that ? Is it more expensive ? At what hour does the steamboat start ? What is the fare ? Have you a printed tariff? Is the road easy to find ? How far is it to X ? What is the usual charge by the day ? At what hour does it start ? Which is the best hotel at X? Are the charges moderate ? Where is the station for X ? Is this the train to X ? How soon shall we be there ? Stop, coachman ! we wish to get out. When must I be ready ? I wish to see the landlord of the hotel. Where is the water-closet? Bring me fresh water. I wish to have breakfast (supper). Quel est ce chemin de fer? Est-ce plus cher ? A quelle heure le bateau a vapeur part-il ? Quel est le prix du pas- sage ? Avez-vous un tarif im- prime ? Trouve-t-on facilement le chemin ? Combien y a-t-il d’ici a X? Combien donne-t-on ordi- nairement par jour ? A quelle heure part-elle ? Quel est le meilleur hotel aX? Y a-t-on bon marche ? Ou est Eembarcadere de X? Est-ce la le train pour X ? Quand arriverons-nous ? Arretez, cocher ! nous vou- lons descendre. A quelle heure faut-il etre pret ? Je desire parler au maitre de l’hotel. Ou sont les lieux d’aisance ? Apportez de l’eau fraiche. Je desirerais dejeuner (sou- per). FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 48 7 Was ist das fur eine Eisen- bahn ? Ist es theurer F Um wie viel Uhr falirt das Dampfschiff ab ? Wie viel betragt das Passa- giergeld ? Haben Sie einen gedruck- ten Tarifp Ist der Weg leiclit zu fin- den P Wie weit ist es von hier nacb X ? Was bezalilt man gewolm- licb fiir den Tag ? Um wie viel Uhr falirt er ab ? Welches ist der beste Gasthof in X ? Ist es billig dort F Wo ist der Bahnhof nach XF 1st dies der Zug nacli XF Wie bald werden wir dort sein F Halt, Kutsclier ! Wir wol- len aussteigen. Wann muss ich fertig sein F Ich wiinsche den Herrn des Hauses zn sehen. Wo ist der Abtritt F Bringen sie frisches Was- ser. Ich wiinsche das Eriilistiick (das Abendessen). Quale e questa strada fer~ rata F E piii caro P A che ora parte il batella a vapore F Quanto costa il trasporto de 5 passeggieri F Avete una lista stampata.. E la via facile a trovarsi F Quanto distante eX... da. qui F Quanto si spende al giorna di solito F A che ora parte F Qual e il miglior albergo in. X? . Sono i prezzi equi cola F Dov’ e Y imbareatoio di X ? E quell o il train o per X F Ci arriveremo presto F Eermatevi, vetturino, vo- gliamo discendere. A che ora debbo esser pronto F Yorrei parlare al maestro di casa. Dov 5 e la ritirata F Portatemi dell’ acqua fresca. Yorrei far colazione (ce« nare) . 488 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, Give me something to eat. At what hour do we dine ? Show me your bill of fare and list of wines. Bring me the newspaper. Is he ready ? Which is the way to the post-office ? How much is the postage ? Send that letter to the post. Where does a banker live P I wish to see a medical man. What fee should I give him ? Can I have a warm bath ? Bring me some soap. Order a hackney-coach for me. Make a good fire. How much have I to pay? Bring me my account. Turn to the right, left, straight forward. How much is charged for admission ? What direction must I take ? Can I have dinner ? Donnez-moi quelque chose a manger. A quelle heure dinons- nous ? Montrez-moi la carte. Apportez-moi le journal. Est-il pret ? » Pourriez-vous m’indiquer la poste aux lettres ? Combien pour le port ? Faites jeter cette lettre a la poste. Oil demeure un banquier ? Je desire voir un medecin. Combien faut-il lui donner ? Pourrais-je avoir un bain chaud ? Apportez-moi du savon. Faites-moi venir une voi- ture de louage. Faites un bon feu. Combien dois-je ? Apportez-moi mon compte. Prenez a droite, a gauche, marchez tout droit. Quel est le prix d’ entree ? Quelle direction faut-il que je prenne ? Pourrais-je y diner ? FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 489 Geben Sie mir etwas zu essen. U m wie viel Uhr speisen wir zu Mittag ? Zeigen Sie mir den Speise- zettel. Bringen Sie mir die Zeitung. 1st er bereit ? Welches ist der Weg zur Post? Wie viel betragt das Porto ? Senden Sie diesen Brief zur Post. Wo wohnt ein Banquier ? Ich wiinsche einen Arzt zu sprechen. Wie viel Honorar soil ich ihm geben? Kami ich ein warmes Bad bekommen ? Bringen Sie mir Seife. Bestellen Sie mir eine Lohnkutsche. Machen Sie ein gutesPeuer. Wie viel habe ich zu be- zahlen. Bringen Sie mir die Rech- nung. Gehen Sie rechts, links, geradeaus. Wie hoch ist der Eintritts- preis ? Welche Richtung muss ich nehmen ? Kan ich das Mittagsessen haben ? Datemi qualclie cosa da mangiare ? A che ora si pranza ? Mostratemi la lista e la nota dei vini. Portatemi la gazzetta. E egli air ordine ? Potreste indicarmi il cam- mino che va alia posta ? Quanto costa il porto ? Eate portare questa lettera alia posta. Dove abita un banchiere ? Desidererei parlare con un medico. Quanto gli debbo dare ? Potrei avere un bagno caldo ? Portatemi un po’ di sapone. Ordinate mi una carrozza da nolo, un fiacre. Eate un buon fuoco. Quanto vi debbo ? Portatemi il mio conto. Si volga a destra, a sinistra, vada diritto. Quanto costa il biglietto d’ingresso ? Qual direzione devo pren* dere ? Potro avervi il pranzo ? 490 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, How much ? Have you no better ? It is fine. It is very hot. Does it rain ? It is cold. Send for a cab. Coachman, drive me to the station. Where is the baggage- room ? Please to give me two first- class tickets to X. Here tney are. What do they cost ? At what hour is supper ready. That’s very dear. Where are our rooms ? Have any letters arrived for Mr. <]NT. 5 poste restante? Here is my passport. Is breakfast ready ? Give me a drink. What o’clock is it? What kind of weather is it ? How do you do ? Yery well, I thank you. Have you a room to let ? Combien ? N’avez-vous rien de meil- leur ? II fait beau. II fait tres chaud. Pleut-il P II fait froid. Faites chercher un fiacre. Cocher, conduisez-moi au chemin de fer. Ou est le bureau de ba- gages? Deux billets de premiere classe pour X, s’il vous plait. Yoila, monsieur. Combien ces billets ? A quelle heure soupe-t-on ? C’est bien cher. Ou sont nos chambres ? Y a-t-ii deslettres poste re- stante pour Monsieur X . ? Yoici mon passeport. Le dejeuner est-il servi ? Donnez-moi a boire. Quelle heure est-il ? Quel temps fait-il ? Comment vous portez-vous p Fort bien, je vous remercie. Auriez-vous une chambre a me louer ? FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 491 Wie viel ? Haben Sie nichts Bes- seres P Es ist schon. Es ist selir lieiss. Regnet es ? Es ist kalt. Lassen Sie eine Droschke liolen. Xutscher, faliren Sie micli nacli der Eisenbahn. Wo ist die Gepackan- nabme ? Ich. bitte um zwei Billete erster Klasse nach X. Hier sind sie. W ie viel kosten sie ? Um wie viel Uhr ist das Abendessen fertig ? Das ist selir theuer. Wo sind nnsere Zimmer ? Sind Briefe angekommen fiir Herrn N. ? Hier ist mein Pass. Ist das Eruhstiick fertig ? Geben Sie mir zn trinken. Wie viel Uhr ist es ? Wie ist das Wetter ? Wie befinden Sie sich ? Sebr wo hi, ich danke Ihnen. Haben Sie ein Zimmer zu vermiethen?' Quanto ? . Non ne avete ai miglioref Fa bel tempo. Ea caldissimo. Piove ? Ea freddo. Eate cercare un fiacre. Cocchiere, conducetemi alia strada ferrata. Dov J e Fufficio deglieffetti? Due biglietti di prima classe per X, se vi piace Ecco, signore. Quanto avete pagato pe; questi biglietti ? A che ora si cena ? E carissimo. Dove sono le nostre ca mere ? Yi sono lettere per il Sig nor N. posta restante ? Eeco il mio passaporto. E in tavola la colazione ? Datemi da bere. Che ora e ? Che tempo fa ? Come sta ? Benissimo, la ringrazio. Avrebbe una camera da affittare ? TRAVELLERS’ TELEGRAPHIC CODE. Before making use of the words in this Code , it is essential that intending users should satisfy themselves that the friends with whom they intend to correspond have in their possession the same edition of the wo?'k as the one about to be used. This Code is intended as a means of reducing the expense of telegraphing. A single word means a whole sentence. A copy of the Code should be left with the person at home to whom telegrams would naturally be sent (whose name and address should be registered at the local telegraph-office). The blank ciphers are for private phrases, to form a personal Code between two persons, who may agree upon certain sen- tences, and write them carefully in their two books. This Code has been made up expressly for Cassell’s Pocket Guide. Almond Telegraph to . Almost Telegraph as soon as possible. Aloes Telegraph your reply. Aloft ..Telegraph and keep us well posted. Aloof Inform us by telegraph. Aloud Telegraph us what to do. Air Telegraph if you do not understand our despatch. Ajar Cannot understand your telegram. Please repeat. Alr'fn We cannot understand the word in your tele- gram. Please repeat it. AJack The word you do not understand is . Alarm Your despatch received. Agog Answer my telegram of . Agony Answer immediately by telegraph. Aided Answer by telegraph at . Alter Telegraphed you, but have no reply. Alum Have you received our telegram of ? Amaze Have received your telegram of . Amber If you wish to communicate with me by telegraph, do so at , before . Amboy Please advise by telegraph. Amen Get despatch at telegraph office. Arnica! Before despatch received, we had — — . Amidst Have you sent us a despatch to-day? Amity If we don’t telegraph you by , you may con* elude TRAVELLERS’ TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 493 Ample If you don’t telegraph us by ,we shall Amplify .What is reason of delay in reply to our telegram? Amuse Analogy Anatomy — Ancestor... • Anchor Ancient Andiron Anew Angel Angry Animal . . . Animate Ankle Annals Annex Annul Appeal Apply Apron Baby Your letter of — is received. Back Your letter is received. Bacon Send letters here until the . Badly Send letters to until the . Backstay Send letters care of . Badger We write you . Baffle We wrote you last mail. Bag Will write you at once. Bail Full information by to-day’s mail. Bake Have sent you letter by to-day’s man. Balcony Letter was sent. Bald Answer by mail. Ballad No letter to-day ; telegraph contents if imcortartt. Balm Have received no letters since . Banjo For ward no letters after . Bandit ...We forwarded letters to on the — — 494 TRAVELLERS’ TELEGRAPHIC CODE. Banner Your letter of received and agreed to. Banquet Your letter of received and answered. Baron All matter to date has been forwarded. Bazar Have you any mail matter on hand for us ? Beadle Await our letter. Beast We have advices which, in our opinion, may cause your return to . Where will a letter soonest reach you? Beauty We have written you fully on the subject. Beckon What is reason of delay in, replying to our letter t Bed Beef Befog Beggar Betide Bestow Betray Biceps Birch ... A TTSffA IbwilU Blast ... Behead Behold 9vl fifrrixr A aIjIjtA Belay Bench Belt Bias Biped Birthday Bishop s Let Bivalve Blacsneg ...... Blaze TRAVELLERS’ TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 495 Cabin We shall return at once by . Caboose ....We shall return at once by the Cadet We shall sail for home on the . Cage . We sail . Cake When does sail ? Calico We think it best to delay departure. Calm We think it best to delay departure until — — . It no further advice, shall leave on that day for =. Caloric Cannot leave . Cameo Cannot leave until . Camp Cannot leave . Will sail by next steamer. Canal Have missed steamer. Canary Have missed steamer ; will sail by next. Candy When does leave ? Cane Steamer sails on . Cannon Sailing postponed until . Canopy Tickets lost ; send duplicates. Canteen ...Arrived all well; pleasant passage. Tell . Canvass ...Arrived all well, but stormy passage. Tell . Caper Arr. all well; pleasant passage. Shall proceed to — — . Caprice Arr. all well, but stormy passage. Shall proc. to — Capsize Arrived all well ; have written. Capsule Arrived all well. Address letters to . Captain Has arrived? Caramel ...He arrived on . Caravan ...He has not arrived. Carbon Return at once. Card Return as soon as possible. Cardinal ...Return at once. Important matters demand your pres« ence here. Careworn. .Things look blue. Unless strong reason to the contrary. should like to have you shorten your trip. Cargo You need not return. Carmine ...You need not return until . Catnip You must be here by the — — . . Caxton Impossible to return until . Cement Arrange for our return. Central Cannot return unless . Chafe If agreeable, will remain . Chair When will you return? Chancel ...When do you expect to be here ? Chaos We shall be with you by the . Chapter ....Secure passage by" this steamer. Charcoal ...We shall come by the train leaving at . Chariot We shall arrive at this station by train due at — — . Charity Charm Cherish 496 TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. Cider Cimeter Cipher Circuit Citadel Clack Coil Colic Confront ... Dabble Send cable transfer for — , through . Dabster Send me new credit for — — , through . Dactyl Remit to me by telegraph through . Daffodil ....Remit by mail : — Dagger ...£ 5 Darkey .... ..£55 Debility ...£125 Dainty ... 10 Dashed .... ... 60 Debut .... 150 Dale ... 15 Daub ... 65 Decamp.. ....175 Dally ... 20 Daylight ... ... 70 Decay .... 200 Damper ... ... 25 Daytime ... ... 75 Deceit .... 250 Dance ... 30 Deacon ... 80 Decide ... .... 300 Dandy Dangling . ... 35 Deadeye ... ... 85 Decimal . .... 400 ... 40 Deaf ... 90 Declare ... .... 500 Daring ... 45 Debased ... ... 95 Dark ... 50 Debatable ...100 Decrease .. Remit at once. Deem We have remitted. Deface • Have you forwarded remittance? Defeat We cannot remit. Defection ..We cannot remit more than . Defence ...We send draft by first mail’. Defiance • Will honor draft. Deform Will honor draft to amount of . Defrayed Will you honor my draft? Deftly Will you honor my draft to amount of — — Delve Please prepay passage per . Demerit ..Please prepay passage, and telegraph name of steamer. Democrat , Have prepaid your passage per , sailing on . TRAVELLERS’ TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 497 Demon Are without funds ; send money to » Dentist Dunce - Damask • Dastard * Daughter .. Debris Destiny Deck Denizen Denote Dense Depose Depress Derange .... Device Dilute Disclose .... Distress .... Divan ........ Dock Dome Dowdy Drab Drama Drill Dress Drum Eagle In consequence of illness of , we are detained heT& Send letters here until the . Earth is better, and we hope to leave on the . East is seriously ill; will advise you again. 498 TRAVELLERS’ TELEGRAPHIC CODE. Ebony is sick, but not dangerously. JEcho is improving slowly. Edible is very much better ; no need of your returning. Editor is no better. Would come home at once. Educate ...” is in a critical condition. Efface is rapidly sinking. Effort died last night. Egress died yesterday. Elapse died to-day. Elaborate Please express our sympathy. Electric We are all well, and there is no need of your returning. Elevate Hope all are well. Enchant ...All are well. Elixir Elongate ... Elope Eluded Empire Emulate ... Endow Engine Gadfly Stay as long as you like. Everything is as it should be, and all are well. Gaiter Everything sound, and doing well. Galaxy We propose extending tour. Gallant We propose extending tour to — — . If all right, tele* graph. Game When will you be in ? Garden We expect to reach — — by . Garrison ...Will meet you at . Gastric We wish to know where you can be met between now and . Gazette ... Do as you think best. Gender Can you arrange ? Genial We can arrange. Geyser We cannot arrange. Ghost .- Everything satisfactorily arranged. TRAVELLERS’ TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 499 Gimlet We think it advisable to . Ginger We think well of . Girlhood ...We do not think well of . Gladden ... Act according to your own judgment Glancing ...How is business? Glass Business is good. Everything all right. Gleam Anything the matter? No word from you by mail or wire. Glide Send us word at once. Glimmer ...Nothing the matter; all well. Have written. Glisten Do nothing until you hear from me. Glory Where is ? Glue Do you know address of ? Goblin Address of party is . Goddess ....Address cannot be given. Gondola ...When did you send ? Goodness ..Have you done so ? Gotham ... Have you done anything? Gothic Keep this confidential. Gouge Gout Govern Gown Grab Grade Gradual ... Grammar.. Greedy Grief Grocer Growl Grain Gruff Guard Guano Guide INDEX Abbeville, 166. Abbotsford, 94. Aberdeen, 83. Abergele, 31. Abo, 455. Adelsberg, 258. TEtna, Mount, 386. Aghadoe, 8. Agram, 258. Ahrweiler, 225. Ailsa Craig, 59. Airolo, 283. Aix-la-Chapelle, 221, 203. Aix-les-Bains, 440. Alatri, 371. Albacete, 414. Albano, 366. Alessandria, 305. Alfort, 196. Alicante, 414. Alloway, 58. Alpnach, 284. Althorp Park, 125. Altorf, 282. Amalti, 383. Ambleside, 45, 44. Amboise, 198. Ambras, 265. Amiens, 166. Amsteg, 282. Amsterdam, 215. Anagni, 371. Anagno, Lake, 377. Ancona, 328. Andermatt, 283. Andernach, 226. Anglesea, 27. Angouleme, 439. Annan, 56. Annesley, 108. Antemnae, 366. Antibes, 399. Antwerp, 211. Aosta, 295. Apennines, 328. Appian Way, 363. Aqua Acetosa, 365. Aquino, 371. Aranjuez, 426. Arbroath, 83. Arcaclion, 439. Ardchattan, 74. Ardrishaig, 79. Arenfels, 225. Arezzo, 338. Ariccia, 367. xlrles, 401. Arnhem, 217- Arona, 299, 298. Arras, 166. Ashton, 10 1. Asni^res, 165. Assisi, 339. Assmannshausen, 232. Athlone, 22. Auburn, 22. Augsburg, 266. Avernus, Lake, 378. Avignon, 402. Avoca, Vale of, 20. Awe, Loch, 78. Ayr, 58. B'acharach, 231. Badajos, 431 Baden-Baden, 272. Baggage, xii. Baia, 378. Baireuth, 270. Balearic Isles, 409. Ballater, 84. Balmoral, 84. Baiquhidder, 73. Bamberg, 270. Banavie, 76. Bangor, 28, 26. Bannockburn, 81. Barbizon, 197. Barcelona, 406. Basle, 274. Bassenthwaite, 53. Bath, 157- Battle Abbey, 155. Bayonne, 433. Baziasch, 256. Bedford, 125. Belcaro, 339. Belfast, 25. Belgium, 201. Belgrade, 256. Bellaggio, 300. Bellinzona, 279. Belvoir Castle, 107. Ben Ledi, 72, 73. Ben Lomond, 70. Ben Venue, 71, 72. Bergamo, 307. Bergen, 448. Berlin, 241. Bernardino Pass, 279. Berne, 287- Bernese Oberland,285. Bernina Pass, 280. Besanqon, 404. Beverley, 102. Biarritz, 433. Bienne, 291. Bingen, ?32 INDEX, 501 Birmingham, 111, 124. Black Forest, 272, 273. Blarney Castle, 4. Blois, 197. Blue Grotto, 382. Bologna, 322. Bonn, 222. Boppard, 230. Bordeaux, 437. Bordighera, 396. Borromeau Isles, 299. Boston, 106. Bothwell, 68. Bougival, 194. Boulogne, 161. Bowness, 45. Bozen, 265. Bracciano, 370. Bradford, 103. Braemar, 84. Bray, 20. Bremen, 239. Brenner Pass, 265. Brescia, 307, 305. Brest, 168. Brieg, 296. Bnenz, 284. Brighton, 155. Brindisi, 328. Bristol, 158. Britannia Bridge, 27. Broek, 217. Brack, 258. Bruges, 207. Briinig Pass, 284. Brunswick, 238. Brussels, 204. Bucharest, 257. Bulgaria, 257. Burgos, 432. Burns, Land of, 56. Bute, 79. Buttermere, 52. Cadenabbia, 301. Cadiz, 421. Caen, 167. Caernarvon, 29. Calais, 161. Caledonian Canal, 76. Callander, 73. ' Camaldoli, 337. Cambridge, 123, Campagna, The, 364. Cannes, 398. Cannstadt, 267. Canossa, 325. Canterbury, 160. Capellen, 229. Capri, 382. Capua, 371. Cardilf, 158. Cardross, 67, 69. Carlisle, 5,5. Carlsbad, 249. Carlsruhe, 272. Carrara, 392. Caserta, 381. Casliel, 14. Cassel, 238. Cassino, 371. Castel, 235. Castellamare, 381. Castel Gandolfo, 367. Catania, 385. Caub, 231. Cauterets, 437. .Cawdor Castle, 78. Certosa, La, 304, 337. Cesena, 327. Cette, 406. Chalons, 200. Chambord, 198. Cliamounix, 293. Chantilly, 195. Charleroi, 202. Cliarlottenburg, 245. Chartres, 168. Chateau Thierry, 199. Chatham, 160. Cliatillon, 197. Chatswortli, 109. Chaumont, 198. Chaudfontaine, 203. Clienonceaux, 198. Cherbourg, 167. Chester, 32. Chiavenna, 279. Cliiemsee, 261. Chillon, 291. Chioggia, 320. Chiswick, 154. Christiania, 445. Civita Veccliia, 389. Clarens, 291. Cloyne, 5. Coblence, 227. Coburg, 240. Coimbra, 435. Coire, 278. Colchester, 154. Col de Balme, 292. Coleraine, 24. Colico, 301, 279. Cologne, 218. Como, Lake, 300. Compiegne, 196. Coniston Lake, 46_ Connemara, 23. Constance, 275. Consuls, xviii. Conway, 29. Copenhagen, 441.. Coppet, 290. Cora Linn, 68. Cordova, 415. Cork, 3. Cornice Road, 395.. Correggio, 325. Cortona, 338. Coventry, 112. Cracow, 257- Cremona, 310, 305. Cronstadt, 456. Culloden, 78. Cumae, 378. Dabmstadt, 272. Delft, 213. Denmark, 441. Derby, 108. Derbyshire, £eak of* 108. Derwentwater, 52. Dieppe, 161. Dijon, 198. Dinan, 168. Dissentis, 279. Domo d’ Ossola, 298. Douai, 201. Dover, 161. Drachenfels, 223. 502 INDEX. Dresden, 246. Drogheda, 20. Drontheim, 447. Dryburgh Abbey, 94. Dublin, 14. Dulwich, 153. Dumbarton, 66. Dumfries, 56. Dunblane, 81. Dundee, 82. Dunkeld, 82. Dunottar Castle, 83. Durham, 951 Diisseldorf, 218. Eastbourne, 155. Eaton Hall, 35. Eaux-Bonnes, 437- Eaux-Chaudes, 437. Ecclefechan, 55. Eddystone Light, 159. Edenhall, 54. Edinburgh, 85. Ehrenbreitstein, 228. Ehrenfels, 232. Eisenach, 239. Elsinore, 444. Elstow, 125. Eltville, 234. Ely, 123. Emmerich, 217, 218- Ems, 228. Engadine, 279. Enghien, 195. England, 32. Erfurt, 240. Ermenonville, 196. Escurial, 429. Esthwaite, 44. Eton, L51. Etretat, 162. Evora, 436. Evreux, 167. E v eter, 159. Faenza, 327. Faro, 436. Fecamp, 162. Ferentino, 371. Ferney, 289. Ferrara, 321 . Fiesole, 337. Florence, 329. Fliielen, 282. Folkestone, 160. Foligno, 339. i Fontainebleau, 196. Forli, 327: Fort Augustus, 77- Fountains Abbey, 97. France, Northern, 161. France, Southern, 397. Frankfort, 236. Frascati, 368. Freiburg, 273, 288. Frejus, 399. Frosinone, 371. Frutigen, 287. Fulda, 239.* Furca Pass, 283. Furness Abbey, 42. Fiirstenberg, 232. Galway, 23. Garda, Lake of, 301, 308. Gastein, 260. Gemmi Pass, 287. Geneva, 289. Genoa, 393. Genzano, 367- Germany, 218. Gerona, 406. Ghent, 209. Giants’ Causeway, 24. Gibraltar, 420. Giessbach, 285. Girgenti, 389. Giurgevo, 257. Glamis Castle, 83. Glasgow, 60. Glastonbury, 153. Glen Fruin, 67. Gorner Grat, 295. Gotha, 240. Gothenburg, 445. Granada, 417- Granville, 167- Grasmere, 50. Gratz, 258. ■ Greenock, 67, 80. Greenwich, 153. Grimsel Pass, 283. Grindelwald, 285. Grotta Ferrata, 368. Haarlem, 215. Hague, The, 213. Hal, 201. Halle, 241. Hamburg, 239, 441. Hamilton, 67. Hammerfest, 448. Hammerstein, 226. Hampstead, 153. Hampton Court, 152. Hanover, 238. Harrogate, 98. Harrow, 154. Hastings, 155. Havre, 162. Haworth, 103. Heidelberg, 270. Helensburgh, 67. Helvellyn, 51. Herculaneum, 379. Highgate, 153. Highlands, Scottish, Holland, 212. Holyhead, 27. Homburg, 237- Hotels, xx. Hull, 102. Hyeres, 399. Innsbruck, 264. Interlaken, 285. Inverary, 70. Inverness, 78. lnversnaid, 71, 69. Iona, 76. Ireland, 1, 26. Iron Gates, 257. Irongray, 57. I run, 433. Ischia, 382. Ischl, 260. Iseo, 301. Isola Bella, 299. Italy, 297. Jerez, 422. Johannisberg, 233. Julier Pass, 279. Jungfrau, 286. INDEX. Kandersteg, 287. Kasan Defile, 257. Katrine, Loch, 71, Kelheim, 269. Kenilworth, 114. Keswick, 52, 53. Kew, 152. Kidderminster, 111. Killarney, 6, 10. Kingstown, 21. Koniorn, 255. Konigsstulil, 230, 271. Konigswinter, 223. Konigstein, 248. Kreuznach, 2i33. Laach, 226. Laeken, 206. Lalmeck, 230. Laibach, 258. Lanark, 68. Lausanne, 288, 199. Leamington, 121. Lecco, 301. Leeds, 102. Leghorn, 389. Leipsic, 240. Leith, 91. Lemberg, 257. Lerida, 411. Lerins, Isles of, 399. Letter of Credit, ix. Leuk, Baths of, 287, 296. Leyden, 215. Li&ge, 202. Lille, 202. Limerick, 13, Lincoln, 105. Link oping, 444. Linlithgow, 82. Linz, 225, 259. Lisbon, 434. Lisieux, 167. Liverpool, 36, viii. Llandaff, 158. Locarno, 299. Lodore, 52. Lomond, Loch, 69. London, 12$. Loi donderry, 25. 50S Lorch, 232. Louvain, 207. Lucca, 392. Lucerne, 280. Lugano, 300, 279. Luino, 299. Lund, 444. Lurlei, 231. Luxembourg, 204. Lyons, 403. Macon, 199. Madrid', 426. Magdeburg 1 , 238. Maggiore, Lake, 298. Majorca, 409. Malaga, 419. Malamocco, 320. Malmaison, 194. Malm 6, 444. Manchester, 104. Mannheim, 271. Mantes, 165. Mantua, 310. Marburg, 238. Margate, 154. Marino, 368. Marksburg, 230. Marly, 195. Marseilles, 399, 297. Martigny, 292. Matterhorn, 295. Mauchline, 57. Mayen ce, 234. Mavnooth, 22. Meaux, 199. Mechlin, 210. Meiringen, 284. Melrose, 93. Menaggio, 300. Menai Bridge, 28. Mentone, 397. Mer de Glace, 293. Messina, 384. Metz, 233. Meudon, 197. Milan, 302. Minorca, 409. Miramar, 259. Modena, 324, 310. Monaco, 397. Money, xv. Monreale, 388. Mons, 201. Monserrat, 408. Mont Blanc, 293. Monte Cenis, 297'. Monte Rosa, 295. Montgomerie, 58. Montmorency, 195-. Montpellier, 405. Montrose, 88. Morat, Lake, 291. Moscow, 460. Moselle River, 228. Mouse Tower, 232. Mt. St. Michel, 167. Munich, 261, 310, 249 Murano, 320. Miirren, 286.. Nairn, 78. Namur, 202. Nancy, 200. Naples, 370. Narbonne, 406. Nemi, Lake, 367. Neuchatel, 291. Neuwied, 226. Newark, 107. Newcastle, 95. Newmarket, 124. Nice, 398. Niederwald, 233. Niederwertli, 227- Nijni-Novgorod, 462.. Nimes, 401. Nisida, 377. Nonnenwertli, 224. Northampton, 125.. Norway, 445. Nottingham, 107. Novara, 306. Nuremberg, 267. Oban, 74, 78. Ober-Ammergau, 26L Oberwesel, 231- Ocean Voyage, vii. Odessa, 462. Oporto, 436. Orange, 403. Orleans. 197. • 504 INDEX. Orta, 301. Orvieto, 338 Ostend, 307 Ostia, 370. Otranto, 328. Oxford, 125. Padua, 311. Paestum, 383. Palermo, 387- Palestrina, 369. Palma, 409. Paris, 168 Parma, 324. Passports, ix. Pau, 436. Pavia, 305. Perpignan, 406. Perth, 82. Perugia, 338. Pesaro, 327. Peschiera, 301, 308. Pesth, 255. Peterborough, 121, 106. Pfalz, 231. Piacenza, 310, 305. Pierrefonds, 196. Pillnitz, 247- Pisa, 390. Pistoja, 328. Plymouth, 159. Poitiers, 440. Pompeii, 379. Pontresina, 280. Port Mahon, 409. Portsmouth, 156. Portugal, 434. Posilippo, 376. Potsdam, 245. Pozzuoli, 377. Prague, 248. Presburg, 255. Procida, 382, 383. 'Queenstown, 2. Ragatz, 277. Railways, xvi. Ramsgate, 154 . RapperscliWyl, 277- Ratisbon, 269. Ravel lo, 383. Ravenna, 325. Reggio, 325, 384. Remagen, 225. Renfrew, 66. Rlieims, 199. Rheineck, 226. Rheinfels 230. Rheinstein, 232. Rhense, 230. Rhine, 222. Rhone Glacier, 283. Richmond, 152. Righi, The, 281. Rimini, 327. Ripon, 97. Riva, 302. Rochester, 159. Rolandseck, 224. Rome, 340. Roslin, 92. Rothesay, 79. Rotterdam, 212. Roubaix, 202. Rouen, 163. Roveredo, 265, 310. Rovigo, 321. Rowardennan, 69. Riideslieim, 233. Rueil, 194. Rugby, 121. Russia, 455. Rustchuck, 257. Rydal, 49. Ryde, 157. Saguntum, 412. St. Albans, 154. St. Andrews, 83. St. Bernard Pass 294. St. Cloud, 193. St. Denis, 195. St. Germain, 194. St. Goar, 230. St. Gothard Pass, 280, 279 St. Malo, 168. St. Maurice, 292. St, Moritz, 280. St. Petersburg, 456. St. Quentin, 201. St. Theodule Pass, 295. Salerno, 383. Salisbury, 156. Salzburg, 259. Salzkammergut, 260. San Marino, 327. San Remo, 395. San Sebastian, 433. Santarem, 434. Saragossa, 410. Savona, 395. Saxon Switzerland, 247. Saxon-les-Bains, 295. Sceaux, 197. Schaffhausen, 275. Scheveningen, 214. Schiedam, 213. Schonbrunn, 254. Scotland, 56. Sebastopol, 462. Sedan, 200. Semmering Pass, 258, 298. Servia, 256. Seville, 422. Sevres, 194. Sheffield, 105. Sicily, 384. Siena, 339. Simplon Pass, 295, 294, Sion, 295. Solfatara, 377. Solferino, 308. Sorrento, 381. Southampton, 156. Spa, 203. Spain, 405. Spezia, La, 393, 325. Spires, 271. Spliigen Pass, 277. Staflfa, 75. Stahleck, 231. Staubbach, 286. Steamships, x. Stirling, 80. Stockholm, 449, Stolzenfels, 229. Strasbourg, 272, 200. Stratford-on-Avon, 118. Stuttgart, 266. Subiaco, 369. INDEX, 505 Sweden, 449. Switzerland, 274. Syracuse, 386. Taormina, 385. Taranto, 328. Tarascon, 402. Tarragona, 412. Teplitz, 249. Terni, 339. Thrasymene Lake, 338. Throndhjem, 447. Thun, Lake of, 286. Tivoli, 368. Toledo, 430. Torcello, 321. Torquay, 159 Tortosa, 412. Toulon, 399. Toulouse, 439. Tours, 198. Trent, 265, 310. Treves, 229. Trouville, 162. Trieste, 321, 258. Trossachs, The, 71. Tunbridge Wells, 155. Turin, 305. Tusculuin, 368. Tyrol, 264. Ullswater, 48. Ulm, 266. Upsala, 454. Urbino, 328. Utrecht, 217. Valence, 403. Valencia, 412. Valenciennes, 201. Valladolid, 432. Vallombrosa, 337. Vaucluse, 403. Velletri, 371. Venice, 313, 307. Verona, 308, 307 Versailles, 191. Vesuvius, 379. Vevay, 291. Via Mala, 278. Vicenza, 311. Vichy, 440. Vienna, 250. Vienne, 403. Vincennes, 181. Wales, 27. Walhalla, The, 269. Wallenstadt, Lake, 277= Wartburg, 239. Warwick, 116. Waterloo, 206. Weimar, 240. Wells, 158. Wiesbaden, 237, 234. Wight, Isle of, 157. Wildbad Gastein, 260. Wilhelmshohe, 238. Winchester, 156. Windermere, 44, 45. Windsor, 151. Worcester, 112. Worms, 271. Wiirzburg, 270. York, 98. Yverdon, 291. Zaandam, 217. Zermatt, 295. | Zurich, 276, 266. “INFINITE RICHES IN A LITTLE ROOM . 0 CASSELL’S POCKET GUIDE TO EUROPE Was planned by E. C. STEDMAN, of New York, to meet the demand for a general European Guide- Book, small enough to be carried easily in a gentle- man's ■ or lady's pocket, and yet more complete than any other single-volume guide. It was compiled by EDWARD KING, of Paris, who personally went over most of the routes de- scribed. It was revised by M. F. SWEETSER, of Boston, the well-known and able compiler of travellers’ hand- books, and is re-edited and kept up to date by Mr. Stedman, with the aid of skilled experts in the London office of Messrs. CASSELL & COMPANY, Limited. For accuracy, fullness, legibility of text and maps, compact beauty and usefulness, and very moderate price, the publishers recommend it as the model book of its ki nd . One Vol., Leather Binding, Price $1.50. CASSELL PUBLISHING COMPANY, 104 & 106 Fourth Avenue, New York. ^“AMERICA’S GREATEST RAIlMDV WHY SO CALLED. First: — It traverses the very heart of the magnificent Commonwealth of the Empire State, uniting the great me- tropolis of the Western Hemisphere with the business and commercial centers of the interior and the West. Second : — It is the only four-track railroad in the world — two tracks exclusively for passenger trains. 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